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MEMOIR

OF THB

LIFE AND PUBLIC SERVICES

SIR THOMAS STAMFORD RAFFLES,

F.R.S.. &c. &c.

PARTICULARLY IN THE GOVERNMENT OF

JAVA, 1811-1816, BENCOOLEN AND ITS

DEPENDENCIES, 1817-1824;

WITH

DETAILS OF THE COMMERCE AND RESOURCES OF
THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO,

AND

SELECTIONS FROM HIS CORRESPONDENCE.

BY HIS WIDOW.

y /■ Am. 1 •'■.•.■ K

A NEW EDITION, IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. I.

LONDON:
JAMES DUNCAN, 37, PATERNOSTER-ROW.

MDCCCXXXV.

LONDON:

PRINTBD BIT WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS,

Stamfovd Street.

43;"^

HIS EXCELLENCY

THE CHEVALIER BUNSEN,

MINISTER PLENIPOTENTIARY OF HIS MAJESTY THE KINO OF

PRUSSIA AT ROME.

My dear Mr. Bunsen^

You will, I hope, pardon my indulging myself in
the pleasure of dedicating to you this abridgment. It is
the result of your encouragement and advice, which I
have followed, except on one point ; and on that it will be
a sufficient excuse to you, to say that I found I could not
enlarge more upon it, without drawing aside too far the
veil from that domestic altar which, to all who have been
admitted to its highest and holiest duties, is very sacred.

That God may long contmue you in your sphere of
usefulness, blessed and blessing, is the constant and fer-
vent prayer of

Your affectionate and faithfiil friend,

Sophia Baffles.

High Wood^ June 16, 1835.

1 '">

NOTICE.

The Editor of the " Memoir of the Life and Services of
Sir Stamford Baf&es" feels that some explanation is re-
quired of the principle on which the present Edition is
arranged.

Her object has been to omit all those documents and
statements which, though necessary to be printed in the
first instance, in order to do justice to the pubUc character
of her husband, are yet an incumbrance to the book as a
work of literature.

The exertions of Sir Stamford to promote the honour
of his country can only be duly appreciated by those who
know the peculiar difficulties with which he had to con-
tend: these it would have been impossible on several
occasions to detail, without reflecting on individuals,
many of whom are now no more.

The Editor is not conscious of having withheld any-
thing from personal considerations to Sir Stamford. She
has only to hope, that this effort to diffuse more widely
the example of her husband's character, may be made the
means of encouraging a spirit of true patriotism in the
cultivation and exercise, for the good of others, of two of
God's best gifts— Time and Talents.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I. PA6B

Early Life of Mr. Raffles — Labours and relaxations—First tastes
— Appointment under the new Government of Penang — Duties
there — Goes to Malacca for his health — Malay literature — Paper
on the Malayan nation — Woolly-haired people scattered among
them — Game of chess — Orders for the destruction of Malacca
— Countermanded on his representation— Native account of
the Portuguese arrival at Malacca — The Dutch — Letter fropi
Dr. Leyden. . . '. • .1

CHAPTER IL

Mr. Raffles proceeds to Calcutta — Proposes expedition to Java —
Lord Minto appoints him agent to collect information on the
subject— Instructions of the Court of Directors to expel the
French, and to give up the Island to the Natives — Conse-
quences of such a measure — ^Lord Minto objects to it — Deter-
mines to proceed in person to Java — Letters of Dr. Leyden —
His account of an excursion in the Malay Peninsula — Mr.
Raffles reports to L<)rd Minto the result of his inquiries re-
specting Java, &c. . . . .43

CHAPTER III.

Account of the Eastern Islands — Products of Borneo — Settle-
ments of Europeans in the Island — Celebes — ^Traffic in slaves
— Policy of the Dutch, different policy of the English--Dutch
factory at Japan — Trade with — Views connected with the ac-
quisition of Java — Countries from the Bay of Bengal to New
Holland — Proposed policy, chain of posts— Chinese in Java —
Monopoly of farms, &c. — Arabs, use they make of their reli-
gion — Americans, regulation of trade— Dutch orders respecting
trade and navigation— Means taken to keep up their monopoly
of spice— Cause of the faiilure of their trading ports — Former
policy of the English objected to — ^Neglect of the British Go-

Vlll CONTENTS.

PAGE

I Yernment — Dutch views of Colonies — Causes of detenoration.
of Malay character — Piracy — Laws — Slavery, sources o( in the
Malay countries — Laws, want of— Propagation of Christianity
— Advantages likely to accrue to the British nation from the
acquisition of Java and the Eastern Isles 54

CHAPTER IV.

Lord Minto*s great anxiety as to the passage from Malacca to
Batavia — Naval men opposed to Mr. Raffles— Lord Minto con-
fides in Mr. Raffles — New passage attempted — ^Arrival off Ba-
tavia — ^Mr. Raffles gives a sketch of the events which led to
hi» heing employed in the expedition — Establishment of the
French power in Java— Sir Samuel Achmuty*s account of the
capture of Batavia, and of the battle of Comelis— Capitulation
of the Island — Intercepted letters from Governor Jansens —
Lord Minto's opinion of the value of the conquest — Death of
Dr. Leyden— Lord Minto places Mr. Raffles in the government
of Java — Leading principles of the Dutch Government — Pro-
jected change of system — ^English Residents appointed at the
Native Courts — Ancient temples — First Colony of Hindus —
Upas poison — Journey to the Eastern district . .110

CHAPTER V.

Expedition to Palembang— Arrival of the troops — Gallantry of
the attack — Horrors of the scene — Colonel Gillespie's account
of the Sultan — Measures adopted by Colohel Gillespie— Sultan
of Djocjocarta — Mr. Raffles collects troops, and proceeds to
Samarang — Account of treaties with the Sultan — Greneral
confederacy of the Native States — ^Unexpected and fortunate
return of Colonel Gillespie — Assault and capture of Djoc^
jocarta— European power first paramount in Java >. .155

CHAPTER VI.

Difference of opinion between Colonel Gillespie and Mr. Raffles
— Re-establishment of Society of Arts— Importance of con-
nexion between Java and China to the East India Company's
interests — Consequence of a King's government upon their
monopoly — Lord Minto's anxiety to provide for Mr. Raffles, in
the prospect of the Island being transferred to the Crown —

CONTENTS. IX

PACK

Lord Minto's approval of the raeasurea of government— Calling
in depreciated paper — Promise of an official approbation — Ac-
count of the Colonies— Depreciated state of paper currency-
Want of specie— Land rental— Revenues of government— Pro-
posed literary work— Lord Minto's return to England— His last
letter on leaving Calcutta— Expedition to Sambas . .190

CHAPTER VII.

General Nightingall appointed to relieve General Gillespie—
Greneral Gillespie brings charges against Mr. Raffles — De-
cision of the Court of Directors on them — Ancient characters
on stones from the temples — Establishment of the improved
system of government — Principles on which it was founded —
Institutions of Majapahit, his division of society into classes —
Mr. Raffles' reasons for introducing the change in the tenure
of the land — His anxiety and fatigue during its progress — Sup-
port of General Nightingall — ^Eventual fate of Java — ^Hesita-
tion of supreme government to give any rule for the guidance
of the government — Forced to act in every measure of im-
portance, in consequence, on his own responsibility — Suppres-
sion of piracy — Slave-trade declared to be felony, by a Colonial
Law — Can only be repealed by the mother country — Leading
inhabitants concur, and registered their slaves — ^Mission to
Japan — Opening of trade with it — Disapproved by the Bengal
Government — ^Approved by the Court of Directors • .209

CHAPTER VIII.

Domestic afflictions — Tour of the Island for the benefit of his
health — Native companions — Malay character — Origin of their
race — Their literature— Civilization — The Moluccas— Celebes
— ^Expedition to Bali and Macassar — People of Bali— Castes —
Puneral ceremonies — ^Wives burning — Account of eruption of
Tomboro Mountain — Prospecta of the restoration of Java to the
Dutch — Letter to Lord Buckingham on advantages of retain-
ing it — Value of the Moluccas — ^Banca — Character of the East
insular tribes— New government proposed for Java — Merits of
the individuals employed — His own labours — Javanese lan-
guage — Ancient sculpture and remains— intention to write the
History of Java — Review of his administration in Java— Close
of it . . . • . .255

VOL. I. b

X CONTENTS.

PAOB

CHAPTER IX.

Mr. RafEles hears he is to be relieved in the goyemment — Resi-
dency of Bencoolen secured to him — Forced to return to Eng-
land by ill health— Arrival of Mr. Fendall — ^Reception of him
— General regret at Mr. Raffles* departure^Presentation of
plate — Endeavours by a last memorial to secure justice to the
native princes and people — ^The objects of their treaties with
the English— Objects neglected by the English Government —

' Island restored without conditions to the Dutch — ^Embarkation
— State of mind on quitting Java — Extract from Captain Tra-
vers' Journal during the voyage— St. Helena — Interview with
Buonaparte — Arrival at Falmouth — ^Mines in Cornwall — Jour-
ney to London ..... 293

CHAPTER X.

Mr. Raffles appeals to the Court of Directors— Writes his His-
tory of Java — Princess Charlotte — Visits the Continent — Medi-
tates the establishment of a Society on the principle of the
Jardin des Plantes — Is appointed Lieutenant-Governor of
Bencoolen and its dependencies — Embarks for India — Death of
Princess Charlotte — Arrival in Sumatra— Description of the
Settlement — Dispute with the Dutch Government — Earth-
quakes — State of Bencoolen — His habits of intercourse with
the Natives . . . . .318

CHAPTER XI.

Sir Stamford Raffles determines to penetrate into the interior of
the country — First excursion to the Hill of Mists — Account of
journey to Passumah — Discovery of gigantic flower — Vegeta-
tion of Malayan Forests — Reason for visiting Passumah —
Ceremony of a funeral — Traces of ancient Hindu mythology —
Description of the people — Small-pox — Fatigue of the journey
— Descends on rafts — Return to Manna — Proceeds to Cawoor —
Success of first attempt to cross the Island of Sumatra — Ex-
tract from Mr. Presgrave's Journal — Description of the Sacred
Mountain — Disappointment in not Teaching the crater — Re-
turn to Manna — Mountain's temperature— Large lake — Suf-
ferings of the people for want of salt, prohibited by the Dutch
Government — People of Passumah Lobar — Descendants of the
Javanese— Villages — Language— Religion . .337

CONTENTS. XI

PA6B

CHAPTER XII.

Sir Stamford Raffles at Bencoolen— Proceeds to Pftdang — Is
anxious to go to Menangkabu — Considered impracticable
— Dangers represented — Determines to make the attempt —
Difficulty of the road — Beauty of the country — Course up the
river — ^Thermometer — Height of the mountain — Description of
the Tiga Bias country and people — Cattle — Horses— Clothing
of the people — Houses — View of the Lake of Sincara — De-
scription of it — Town of Simawang— Country compared to that
of Java — Arrival at Suruasa— Discovery of an inscription in
the Kawi character — Description of Menangkabu — Hindu
image similar to those of Java — Height of the city — Return to
the Lake — Description of crossing it — Minerals — Vegetables
— Agriculture — Return to Bencoolen— Death of Dr. Arnold . 385

ILLUSTRATIONS.

VOL. I.

Portrait to face Title.

Raitlbsia Arnoldi 343

VOL. II.

Facsimile to fece Title.

Map OF Singapore 16

Eastern Archipelago . at the end of second Volume.

The Plate of Sir Stamford*s journey into the interior of
Sumatra has heen unfortunately lost, but all the places he
visited will be found in the large map of Sumatra arranged
by him, and published after his death by Mr. Gardner, 163,
Regent Street.

MEMOIR

SIR THOMAS STAMFORD RAFFLES, F.R.S.

CHAPTER I.

Early Life of Mr, Rc^s— Labours and relaxations — First tastes —
Appointment under the new Government of Penang — Duties
there — Goes to Malacca for his health — Malay literature— Paper
on the Malayan nation— Woolly-haired people scattered among
them — Game of chess — Orders for the destruction of Malacca —
Countermanded on his representation— Native account of the
Portuguese arrival at Malacca — The Dut(^— Letter from Dr.
Leyden,

Thomas Stamford Raffles was born at sea, on board
the ship Ann, off the harbour of Port Morant, in the island
of Jamaicay July 5, 1781. He was the only surviving son
of Benjamin KaiBes, one of the oldest captains in the
West India trade, out of the Port of London. His pater-
nal grandfather held a situation in the Prerogative Office,
Doctors' Commons, with unblemished reputation, for a
long course of years.

Little beyond this is known of his family. The name
frequently occurs in the oldest registers at Beverley, in
Yorkshire, both in those of tl^ Minster and St. Mary's

VOL. I. B

C EARLY LIFK.

church, from which it appears, that three centuries ago his
ancestors resided there, and of one of them it is recorded
that he died during his mayoralty in that borough. From
thence it is believed they removed to Berwick upon
Tweed ; and at length, in the time of Mr. Baffles's great-
grandfather, to London.

Mr. Baf&es was baptized at Eaton Bishop, in Here-
fordshire, whilst his mother was on a visit to the Beverend
John lindeman, her brother, who was at that time the
incumbent of the living.

The object of biography is to enable those who are
occupied in the active bustle of this world's duties, to
benefit by the experience of the traveller who has finished
his course ; and though the early habits of children may
be interesting to the curious observer of human nature,
they are of but little use to the reader who has already
passed through this stage of trial.

For this reason all such details are passed over. It is
sufficient to notice, that in his childhood and early youth,
he displayed a thoughtfrdness, and a closeness of applica-
tion above his years, and which many of his friends now
remember as the first indications of that vigour of mind,
and that devotion to whatever demanded the exertion of
his powers, by which in after life he was so eminently dis-
tinguished.

He was placed at an early age with Dr. Anderson,
who for many years kept a respectable academy at Ham-
inersinith. But when fourteen, he was removed from that

KARLY LIFE. O

seminary, and placed as an extra clerk in the East India
House. The disadvantages which he suffered from this
removal he deeply felt, and never failed to deplore. Re-
ferring to this period of his life, in a letter written
many years after to his cousin, the Reverend Dr. Raffles^
he says, '^With regard to the attention which may be
considered to have been paid by me to objects of a still
more general and interesting nature, whether Uterary,
scientific, or benevolent — I have only a few words to say.
The deficiency of my early education has never been fiilly
supplied ; and I have never ceased to deplore the neces-
sity which withdrew me so early from school. I had
hardly been two years at a boarding-school, when I was
withdrawn, and forced to enter on the busy scenes of
public life, then a mere boy. My leisure hours, however,
still continued to be devoted to favourite studies; and
with the little aid my allowances afforded, I contrived to
make myself master of the French language, and to pro-
secute inquiries into some of the branches of literature
and science ; this was, however, in stolen moments, either
before the office hours in the morning, or after them in
the evening. I look back to these days of difiiculty and
application with some degree of pleasure. I feel that I
did all that I could, and I have nothing to reproach myself
with.

"This statement will account for my deficiencies in
education: and all I ever presumed to consider myself
wad — a lover and admirer of all that h could reach in

4 EARLY LIFE.

literature and science. The varied^ important, and in-
cessant duties of my public life have always deprived me
of that calm and retirement which I have desired^ and to
which alone I look as the ultimate end of my ambition on
earth. To qualify myself for the enjoyment of such a
state^ I omit no opportunity. The high stations which I
have held, have enabled me to foster and encourage the
pursuits of others ; and if I have any merit, it has
rather been as the patron of science, than in any other
capacity."

He then proceeds to a rapid enumeration of his various
labours and productions of a literary and scientific nature,
which will be more appropriately noticed in subsequent
portions of these pages. They are for the most part
already before the world ; and they have obtained for him
a far higher rank, even amongst men of letters and of
science, than that to which his own modesty allowed him
to aspire.

How often do the young, and careless, and prosperous,
neglect the opportunities of improvement afforded them !
how many sluggishly, with lazy attention slumber through
their hours of study ! — Let such pause for a moment, and
contemplate the thirst after knowledge, the industry and
ardour with which a boy of fourteen must have been en-
dued, who, after being the whole of the day at the desk
of his labour, and occupied in copying papers of no great
interest at his age, or perhaps any age, could thus devote
his hours of recreation to the study of languages, and the

EARLY LIFB. D

ctiltivation of those talents he felt that God had endowed
him with.

Thus chained down, his heart yearned for an atmo-
sphere more congenial to its feelings ; his master mind
soon burst its shackles^ and with a high and noble resolve
to devote itself to the good of others, attained the station
for which it felt itself best fitted.

During the period that he remained in the office, he
worked early and late ; he studied, as he himself says, in
stolen moments : by his extra labour at his office he ob-
tained an addition to his salary, which was not appro-
priated to any selfish purpose; but all he earned was
carried home to his parents, as they were at this time in
difficulties. His afiection to his mother was always one
of the strongest feelings of his heart. At this time, with
that self-denying devotion to the happiness of others,
which was his distinguishing quality through life, he de-
prived himself of every indulgence, that he might devote
to her his hard-earned pittance : and in after-days of
comparative affluence he delighted in surrounding her
with every comfort.

Such a sedentary life of labour was, however, ill adapted
to the deUcacy of his frame; and it was feared that
symptoms of consumption were becoming confirmed : he
was ordered to relax his exertions, and to leave his office
for a time ; he obeyed, and obtained a fortnight's leave of
absence. The use which he made of this short period of
recreation is very characteristic : he seized on the moment

6 KARLY LIFE.

to indulge that love of mountain scenery so strong in
most youthfiil minds, so happily undying and unfading
in its exciting joyous feeling. He resolved to go into
Wales, set off on foot, and walked at the rate of thirty
and forty miles a day, accomplished his object, and re-
turned to his desk vntli restored health. As a school-boy,
his garden was his delight : to this was added a love of
animals, which was perhaps unequalled. It has been
observed, that it is one of the characteristic properties of
a great mind, that it can contract as well as dilate itself;
and the mind which cannot do both is not great in its
full extent : this observation was forcibly realised in him ;
he spent hours in fondling and domesticating those objects
of his care and attention. He entered with the most
child-like simplicity into occupations and pleasures which
many would consider beneath their notice : a mountain-
scene would bring tears into his eyes; a flower would
eaU forth a burst of favourite poetry; it was perhaps
peculiar to himself to be able to remark on his last return
to England, that he had never seen a horse-race, never
fired a gun.

His facility in acquiring languages was extreme. He
made himself, master of French, with scarcely any assist-
ance, on his first going into the India House ; and as he
never forgot any thing which he had once attained, he
always continued to speak this language with great
fluency, though he had Kttle opportunity of practice. As
an iustance, in the year 1818, during his government in

KARLY LIFE. /

Sumatra^ a lady was singing in his house one of Moore's
Melodies^ " Rich and rare were the gems she wore," when
some French gentlemen present regretted that the beauties
which he was so admiring were lost to them : he imme-
diately translated the whole into French verse, much to
the surprise of aU present.

His taste for drawing was shown at an early age, though
he never had leisure to indulge it as he wished. In
music, he was always fonder of melody than of harmony ;
perhaps because he did not sufficiently cultivate this
delightful science.

His studies, from his faciHty of acquirement, were de-
sultory ; but he was always acquiring something, and was
never for one moment unoccupied : later in life, if obliged
by illness to rehnquish his occupations, he covered his
couch with papers on the first cessation of pain, and was
immediately engaged, either in reading or dictating.

Little is known of his religious feelings on first entering
the world. Early religious instruction was not then,
perhaps, so general as at present, and he was not one of
the happy few who received it ; but, as he advanced in
Hfe, prosperity warmed his heart towards the God who
led him forward in his course of useMness; adversity
taught him to look to another state of being for the
happiness which he felt himself capable of enjoying:
perhaps his most prominent feelings on this subject were
humility and faith. From his first setting out in life, he
gave the praise to God for all the blessings which hd

HIS APPOINTMENT TO PENANO.

enjoyed^ and was deeply impressed with a sense of his
own unworthiness. He constantly mourned over his own
weakness, and deplored his want of power to do that
which he felt he ought to do, and his failure in the per-
formance of every duty: from the earliest period he
acquiesced in every privation, as the wise purpose of an
Almighty Father working for His own glory, which,
though mysterious to the Umits of man's understanding,
would be brightly and clearly known hereafter.

Beginning life under the influence of such principles
and feelings, it will not be matter of surprise that his own
exertions proved his best patron, and procured him friends,
whose good opinion was at once honourable to his talents>
and favourable to his advancement. Such friends, at a
very early period of his connexion with the £ast India
House, he had obtained: for a vacancy having occurred
in the establishment, his peculiar quaUfications were
allowed to secure his accession to it, notwithstanding the
claims of others, who possessed an interest of whidi he
could not boast.

The Court of Directors in 1805 determined on sending
out an establishment to Penang. India seemed to open
before him the field for which his ambition panted ; and
when the appointments for the new government were
arranged, Mr. Ramsay, then secretary to the Court of
Directors, aware of the pecuhar fitness and talei^s of
Mr. BafiOies for office, named him to Sir Hugh Inglis,
who, from this strong recommendation^ and also a dis--

ARRIVAL AT PENANG. 9

covery of extraordinary qualifications^ gave him the ap-
pointment of Assistant Secretary, and ever afterwards
watched his progress through life with the deepest interest
for his success. Mr. Bamsay, in performing this generous
act, expressed his feeling in the strongest terms that,
although in parting with so useful an assistant in his de-
partment, he should suflFer the greatest inconvenience;
that it was like the loss of a limb to him ; yet he felt bound
to further the views and promotion in life of one who
possessed strong claims from such superior talents and
amiable private character. This appointment must, in
recollection, when a few short years had passed, have
been as gratifying to the patron as it had already proved
honourable to Mr. Baffles, and important to the service of
the East India Company. It is not necessary to enter
here into the reasons which induced the Court of Directors
to form this settlement, particularly as not one of their
high-raised expectations was realized; experience soon
proved that the place was unfavourably situated to attract
either the European or the Indian trader ; and high duties
checked the natives whom the hope of gain had induced
to leave their beaten track.

In the month of September, 1805, Mr. Raffles arrived
at Penang, in the Company's ship Ganges, which was com-
manded by Captain Harrington, a brother of the late
member of council in Bengal. The progress which he
had made in the Malayan language, during his voyage,
enabled him. to enter with efficiency on the duties of his

10 ARRIVAL AT PEKANO.

office as soon as he arrived. It gave to him those mani-
fest advantages which an enlightened man^ on his intro-
duction to so interesting a people^ must derive from the
immediate interchange of ideas and feelings^ and pro-
cured him the marked approbation of the Court of
Directors.

The previous insight which he had acquired into the
mode of preparing and arranging public records and pro-
ceedings^ rendered his services in the formation of a new
establishment highly valuable: but whilst he zealously
devoted himself to the discharge of public duties^ which,
by the illness of the secretary, Mr. Pearson, were rendered
unusually laborious, he still found time to pursue the study
of the Eastern languages, and to prosecute his researches
into his favourite science of natural history.

An extract from the journal of Captain Travers thus
describes him at this period : " It was in the year 1806 I
first became acquainted with Mr. Saffles, at the Island of
Penang. He was then deputy-secretary to the new go-
vernment, which had been recently sent out to that place.
At this time, which was soon after his amval, he had ac-
quired a perfect knowledge of the Malay language, which
he had studied on the voyage out, and wa^ able to write
and speak fluently. The details of the government pro-
ceedings, as far as related to local arrangements and regu-
lations, together with the compilation of almost every
public document, devolved on Mr. Bafiles, who possessed
great quickness and facility in conducting and arranging

^ ARRIVAL AT PENANG. 11

the forms of a new government, as well as in drawing up
and keeping the records.

'^ The public despatches were also entrusted to him;
and, in fact, he had the entire weight and trouble attendant
on the formation of a new government. This, however,
did not prevent his attending closely to improve himself
in the Eastern languages : and whilst his mornings were
employed in his public office, where at first he had but
little assistance, his evenings were devoted to Eastern
literature. Few men, but those who were immediately on
the spot at the! time, can form any idea of the difficult task
which he had to perform, in conducting the public business
of such a government as existed on the first establishment
of Penang as a Presidency. It would be irrelevant here
to allude to, or attempt any description of the different
characters of whom this government was formed, the more
particularly so, as they are all now dead; but it is due to
Mr. Kaffles to state, that he was respected and consulted
by every member of it. In his official capacity he gave
most general satisfaction, whilst the settlers looked up to
him for assistance and advice in every difficulty ; and when
he afterwards became chief secretary, the most general
satisfaction was evinced throughout the Settlement.

" Being of a cheerful, hvely disposition, and very fond
of society, it was surprising how he was able to entertain
so hospitably as he did, and yet labour so much as he was
known to do at the time, not only in his ojfficial capacity,
but in acquiring a general knowledge of the history, go-

12 GOES TO MALACCA FOR HIS HEALTH.

vemment^ and local interests of the neighbouring states ;
and this he was greatly aided in doing by conversing freely
with the natives^ who were constantly visiting Penang at
this period^ many of whom were often found to be sensible^
intelligent men> and greatly pleased to find a person
holding Mr. Raffles's situation able and anxious to converse
with them in their own language."

It was at this early period (1806) that Mr. Baffles
formed an acquaintance with Dr. Leyden^ whose health
had obliged him to quit Calcutta^ and to try the effects of
a voyage to Penang. He resided in Mr. Raffles*s house
for several months. The similarity of their pursuits^ and
the congeniaUty of their sentiments^ soon led to an unre-
served intimacy, which, as the knowledge of each other in-
creased, strengthened into an attachment that was only
severed by death.

In consequence of the absence of Mr. Pearson, Mr.
Baffles had to perform the duties of that gentleman as
well as his own, and succeeded to the office of secretary on
the nomination of Mr. Pearson to a seat in Council.

On the introduction of the Charter of Justice, for the
purpose of establishing a Supreme Court of Judicature,
there was no professional person who could be employed
as registrar. Mr. Baffles offered to act in this capacity,
and rendered most essential assistance in the duties of
arranging and opening the Court.

The fatigue and responsibility attaching to the office of
secretary, in the organization of a new government, in a

GOES TO MALACCA FOR HIS HKALTH. 13

climate which in a very short period proved fatal to two
Governors, all the Council, and many of the new settlers,
brought on an alarming illness. The attack was so severe,
that for some time Uttle hopes of his life were entertained.
Throughout sufferings by which his strength was nearly
exhausted, he evinced the utmost patience and resignation.
When the disease abated, and he could be removed without
danger (1808), he was recommended to go to Malacca for
the recovery of his health.

It is difficult to convey an idea of the constant and
laborious duties which, at this period, he had to perform.
It has already been stated, that the compilation and com-
position of almost every public document devolved upon
him ; that he had to draw up and keep all the records of
the Government; and that the pubUc despatches were
entrusted to him to frame. There were no half-caste
persons, as at the present day, to assist in performing the
duties of transcribing, which greatly increased the labours
of his office. As registrar he had to arrange all the de-
tails of the Recorder's Court. Yet after devoting the
whole of the day to these pubUc duties, it was observed at
the time that he passed his evenings in the study and ac-
quirement of Eastern literature. Trifles often denote the
peculiarity of character which distinguishes the individual
from the surrounding crowd; and a circumstance which
occurred during Mr. Raffles's visit to Malacca developed
the leading features of his disposition — the forgetfulness
of self, the determination to sacrifice every private consi-

14 SERVICES AT PKNANO.

deration to a sense of public duty^ — ^the activity and energy
of mind which overcame every difficulty that obstructed
his course.

'' * Whilst he was thus useftilly employing himself^ and
improving his health, a circumstance occurred which proves
his zeal and assiduity as a public servant ; a ship arrived
at Malacca from Penang, bringing intelligence of her
having left a vessel in the 'harbour about to proceed to
England. Mr. Baffles^ knowing the necessity of sending
despatches by the first opportunity, and well aware that, in
his absence, the Government would find great difficulty in
preparing them, determined on proceeding th^e without
delay, although strongly urged to remain whilst his health
was so fast improving ; but it was impossible to dissuade
him from what he thought to be a public duty ; and, at
any risk or inconvenience, he was resolved on going. At
the moment there was no vessel in Malacca roads going to
Penang, nor any which could be hired for the purpose ;
but still so determined was he on proceeding, that at length
he got a pleasure-boat, formerly the long-boat of an In-
diaman, and in this small craft he went, and reached Penang
in good time to relieve Government from a weight of care
and anxiety, which I believe was freely acknowledged at
the time."

It was during this visit to Malacca that Mr. Raffles first
enjoyed the opportunity of observing, and joining with the

* Extract from Captain Travers*B Journal.

SERVICES AT PENANG. 15

varied population congregated from all parts of the Archi-
pelago^ and from the distant countries of Asia; from
Java^ Amboyna, Celebes, the Moluccas, Borneo, Papua,
Cochin China, China Proper, &c.

With many he conversed personally, with others through
the medium of interpreters. To this early habit, which he
always retained, of associating with the natives, and ad-
mitting them to intimate and social intercourse, may be
attributed the extraordinary influence which he obtained
over them, and the respect with which they always received
his advice and opinions.

The knowledge which he thus acquired of the different
products of the neighbouring countries, of the nature and
extent of their trade, of their customs, manners, and feel-
ings, greatly assisted him in the discharge of those high
and responsible duties to which he was subsequently
called.

The following extract of a letter from the Governor of
Penang evinces the importance attached to his services,
by the authorities of that Settlement. (1808.).

To Mr. Baffles,

" A thousand thanks to you for your kind letteris
which I had the pleasure to receive some days ago ; and
hearing then that there was a small vessel sailing for
Malacca, I wrote you a few hurried lines by her, to inform
you of the arrangement I had made for your coming back
in the event of your not meeting with a better conveyance.

16 SERVICES AT PENANG.

The Scourge sailed five days ago, and is to eall at Galan-
gore and Siak, before she goes to Malacca. Captain
Barrett is desired to place himself under your orders
whenever he arrives ; and unless a more favourable convey-
ance oifers, I sincerely hope you will find yourself well
enough to come back to us in the Scourge.

*' It is distressing to me, my dear Sir, to be under the
necessity of stating, in this pointed manner, the unavoid-
able exigence of the case, but such is the case, that we
shall not be able to make up any despatches for the Court
without your assistance. This is truly hard upon you,
under the present circumstances of your delicate state of
health, but I trust you will believe that nothing else would
induce me to press so hard on you at this time. And
with the exception of Mr. Phillips, the rest of the Board
can give but little assistance in making out the general
letter ; none, however, so little as myself."

Soon after the formation of the Settlement of Penang,
Mr. Dundas, the Governor, received from Mr. Marsden,
author of the History of Sumatra, a letter which con-
tained some queries on the subject of Malayan literature.
These were immediately referred to Mr. Baffles, as the
person best qualified to answer them ; and in consequence
of Mr. Dundas inclosing the following letter of reply, a
correspondence was commenced between Mr. Baffles and
Mr. Marsden, which continued until Mr. Baffles's return
to England in 1816, when a personal acquaintance

MALAYS. 17

led to an intimacy of friendship, which was never in-
terrupted.

TO THE HONOURABLE P. DUNDAS.

"PcnflTfg, July 6, 1806.
'^ Dear Sir,

" I should have taken an earlier opportunity of

x^ommunicating with you on the subject of Mr. Marsden's

letter, which you were pleased to refer to me, if I had not

expected a few leisure hours, in which I could have given

sufficient attention to his queries to reply to them with

the satisfaction I desired.

'' Another reason prevented my replying to your flatter-
ing reference : I had planned a short excursion of a few
days to Queda, and expected from the observations I might
make there, to have confirmed several particulars respect-
ing the Malays, which I could have communicated to Mr.
^ Marsden.

'^ In this also I have been disappointed, from the drcum-
stance of Mr. Pearson's having obtained leave of absence
from the Presidency at the very time I intended applying
to you for permission to go to Queda. The length of
time Mr. Pearson may be absent, and the little prospect
I now have of the leisure which I so anxiously desire, can
alone induce me, at this time, to hazard my inexperienced
opinions on any subject connected with Oriental literature.

" On the interesting subject of the Chronology of the
Malays, I fear but little light will be thrown from the dis-

VOL. I. c

•

18 MALAYS.

covery of their using a cycle in their dates. I am con-
vinced of the justness of Mr. Marsden's conclusion^ that
the cycle amongst the Malays has been adopted from the
Siamese.

" I have not, however, observed in any of their books
that the cycle alluded to is used with the religion of
Mahomet ; the epoch of the Hegira has been introduced,
and with the Arabian months and days is universally used
in their manuscripts.

^' The first I knew of their using a cycle, or particular
names for their years, was from a very old MS., half in
Bugguese, half in the Malay or Arabic character, in which
were inserted the Relika or times (lucky and unlucky),
with tables for computing time, according to the Maho-
medan calendar.

- The Siamese, I believe, in conformity with the Indians
in general, as well as the Chinese, have a cycle of sixty
years, containing five lesser cycles of twelve years each.
Loubec, I make no doubt, in his embassy to Siam, states
in what way these cycles are computed ; and I regret I
have not his work, or any other guide, to correct and
assist me in tracing the exact similitude between the
Siamese cycle and those alluded to as used by the Malays.
That the names for the years used by the Malays are
borrowed from the Siamese is evident.

'* Of the Menangkabus, after a good deal of inquiry, I
have not yet been able decidedly to ascertain the relation
between those of that name in the Peninsula and the

WOOLLY-HAIRED RACE. 19

Menangkabus on Pulo Percha. The Malays I have met
affirm^ without hesitation, that they all come originally
from Pulo Percha : the circumstance of the nation of that
name in Sumatra being so great and ancient, leaves but
Httle doubt, however, on my mind, that the nation (if any)
hardly known on the Peninsula, must have emigrated
from thence, although the contrary may, as we are at a
loss to account for the former, appear at first sight most
probable.

" I hope I may hereafter have it in my power to frirnish
Mr. Marsden with still Airther additions to his Senumg
vocabulary, although I am not much inclined to think
that from this nation, or rather race of men, much in-
teresting information can be derived, beyond that of their
actual existence and extent.

" The men are said to wear a small piece of the bark of
a tree, tied with a string above the hips. The women
wear leaves sewed together in the form of a short petticoat
from above the hips to half way down the thighs. They
are decidedly Caffres, or people with woolly hair — ^to ap-
pearance a distinct race in every respect from the Malays,
from whom they cannot have in any probability descended.
Those inhabiting the skirts of the woods have considerable
intercourse with the Malays, but never leave the woods>
unless taken by force, which they sometimes are^ and sold
as slaves. Many of these, from their holding communi-
cation with the Malays, speak that language tolerably
well ; but the language of these people is considered by

20 CAFFRES.

the Malays as a perfect jargon. Their talking is by the
Malays looked upon as the chattering or chirping of large
birds^ and bears no similitude whatever to their own.
They are found very useM ; if the Malay is in want of
deer, herbs, particular woods, or the like, from the interior
of the forests, he goes into the skirts, generally alone,
directing his course towards the interior : as he advances
he blows a kind of horn, when the Caflfre, if near at hand,
and in the habit of meeting him, cautiously approaches,
and agrees to bring whatever is required by the Malay,
from whom he receives in return a small quantity of
pounded cocoa-nut, or patches of cloth ; but lie is remarked
never to take rice, or the articles of food generally used
by the Malays ; from which he is conceived to live entirely
on roots and leaves of trees, on the boughs of which he is
said to leap and cling with equal agility and expertness
as his degrading semblance, the monkey.

" I have not yet met with any of these Caffres. I ob-
serve Mr. Marsden, in his History of Sumatra, speaks of
the Caffres of the Philippines, who appear to resemble
those alluded to in the Malay Peninsula. These last are
called by Spaniards Negritos del Monte, and are many of
them as black as the natives of Guinea.

"I am inclined to think the subject of these Cafires
being thus found in the interior of these eastern countries
merits considerable attention ; as, at any rate, they afford
a presumptive evidence that the country which they in-
habit cannot for many years have been advanced in civi-

GAME OF CHESS.

Uzation ; and, therefore, that the highest state of it exist-
ing among the Malays must have been on or near the
coasts, and not the interior. In Java there are said to be
remains of a religion, which may, very probably, be cor-
rupted Hindu.

'' With respect to Mr. Marsden's query on the terms
used by the Malays for the different pieces in the game
of chess, I will state the result of my inquiries among
the Malays themselves. The chatter, or chess-board, is
avowedly and evidently received by the. Malays from the
Chuliahs, or men of the Kaling country. The terms
which they could understand they soon altered to their
own fashion. ♦ * * From the above it wiU appear that
the Malays have altered some terms, and not the others.
All I can learn respecting the term ter is, that it is a
name given by the Hindus to a small temple, in which is
placed the image of one of their deities, which they carry
about at different times of the year. This term being
given to the pieces, if derived from this origin, may lead
one to imagine that when the Hindus went to war, they
supposed themselves flanked by their gods ; and in re-
ducing the art of war to a game of amusement, they could
not do less than pay this compliment. Sir William Jones,
speaking of the Indian chess-board, states, I think there
are numerous treatises on the game in the Sanscrit not
yet translated : from ;them, I have no doubt, the origin
of the word ter will be easily ascertained. I regret that I
have not a complete Sanscrit vocabulary by me ; but in

22 GAME OF CHESS.

referring to Forster's Bengallee vocabulary, which is, I
believe, almost pure Sanscrit, I am enabled to state some-
thing satisfactory. The word ter there signifies * border,
verge, utmost :' a sufficient proof, I think, that the term
used for the chess-man is borrowed from the Sanscrit, the
place of the (er on the board being at the border, verge,
utmost, or comer.

'^ In observing, however, upon the manner in which the
Malays have altered the names given by the Chuliahs, I
must notice that they sometimes use the word ter, in
speaking of the wings of an army, in preference to sarsup.

''Many of the books and popular narratives of the
Malays I find to have been rendered from the Kaling lan-
guage, a term by which they call all the popular dialects
on the Coromandel coast. That the astonishing number
of Sanscrit words in the Malay language should have been
introduced by the commercial intercourse of the Chuliahs
is not likely, any more than that they should have entered
from the Guzeratty, whose intercourse must have in like
manner been purely commercial ; but a portion, no doubt,
may have been received from each. I think (with the
Malays) that they must have received their knowledge
from the island of Java. I have not been able to obtain,
as yet, any knowledge of the Javanese language ; but my
friend Dr. Leyden, while he was here, paid some little
attention to it; and his opinion I know was, that the
Javanese language mu^t be a dialect of the Sanscrit, very
little corrupted.

MALACCA. 23

< *' I take the liberty of annexing a Javanese alphabet :
I also add a Bugguese alphabet ; I have never been able
to trace one before^ and if it is new to Mr. Marsden I
shall be much gratified. I have hitherto learnt but little
about this nation. They are, I believe, in general Maho-
medans, those who refuse the doctrines having been
obliged to seek shelter in obscurity. All I can trace of a
former religion is^ that they believed in a heaven and a
heU.

'' I have to apologize for having carried my letter to so
great a length, without knowing whether the observations
it contains will be acceptable. Should you deem the re-
plies to Mr. Marsden's queries in any way satisfactory,
and worthy of communication, I hope you w31, at the
same time, state them as coming from a young man, who
never made Oriental literature his study, and is but lately
arrived in the place which furnishes the means of his ob-
servations," &c. &c.

Mr. Baffles's visit to Malacca contributed very essentially
to the promotion of the public interests. Orders had been
issued that the fortifications should be demolished, and
the whole town abandoned. With regard to the public
buildings, these orders had been abeady executed. Their
object was twofold : first, by the destruction of the works
to deter Europeans from settling there; and, secondly,
by transferHng the trade and population, to improve the
station of Penang, or Prince of Wales's Island.

24 MALACCA.

Mr. Ba£9eB represented that the populatioii of Malacca
far exceeded any idea A^Hch had been formed respecting
it ; that it comprised not less than 20^000 souls (1806),
some few of whom were Europeans^ chiefly Dutch and
Portuguese, the rest were their half-caste descendants, —
Chinese and their descendants by Malay women, Arabs,
Javanese, and Chuliahs, of whom more than three-fourths
were bom in Malacca, where their families had been settled
for centuries. Attached to the place from their birth, they
were accustomed to the local regulations, and in the bosom
of their families they felt that they were at home, their
peculiarities were attended to, their rank respected, and
their wants supplied. Many were proprietors of the soil,
or attached to those who. were so. From their gardens,
which produced pepper, vegetables, and all kinds of fruit
in abimdance, and from the fisheries, they derived comfort
and independence; no reasonable expectation could be
entertained that such a population would emigrate to
Prince of Wales's Island : they were, in fact, inseparable
from the soil ; and of the offers of free passage which had
been made, not one had been accepted. At Penang, on
the other hand, three-fourths of the native population
were adventurers, — ^men ready to turn their hands to any
employments, who, having no fixed home or permanent
property, might by a very little encouragement be in-
duced to remove.

The. manner in which these representations were re-
ceived, and the sense entertained of the value of Mr.

MALACCA. 25

Raffles's services, will appear suflSciently from the follow-
ing extract of a letter from the Governor of Penang to
the Court of Directors, written at this time.

" I have it now in my power to submit to your Honour-
able Committee a compendious but comprehensive report
from the hand of our secretary, Mr. Raffles, explanatory
of the present circumstances of that Settlement, and illus-
trative of the ill consequences that would result from the
adoption of either of the measures that have been hereto-
fore contemplated regarding it. Such information as I
have myself been enabled to collect from intelligent per-
sons here, and from other sources, entirely confirms the
judicious observations and conclusions contained in this
very valuable document; and it is my intention at an
early period to point out to the Supreme Government the
policy, if not necessity, here made sufficiently manifest, of
continuing the present establishment, no branch of which
can admit of reduction, but the charge thereof is amply
provided by the revenues of the Settlement alone.

'' To the services and merits of Mr. Baffles, as well as
in duty to my employers, I should feel alike wanting were
I to omit this opportunity of pointing out to the favour-
able notice of your Honourable Committee the unwearied
zeal and assiduity with which he has, since the formation
of the establishment, devoted his talents to the frirtherance
of the Company's interests ; his unremitting attention to
the duties of the most laborious office under this govern-
ment, added to those of registrar to the Recorder's Court,

26 MAI«ACCA.

which, at the period of its establishment, he voluntarily
and gratuitously undertook. Having lately endured a
severe indisposition, and the necessity of a visit to Malacca,
he occupied the leisure thus afforded, although under great
bodily suffering, to collect the information furnished in
the accompanying report, which entitles him to my ap-
probation, and will, I trust, obtain for him that of yoyr
Honourable Committee. The situation of secretary
affords facilities to the person holding it of acquiring a
better knowledge of your affairs here than any other
officer below council ; and I can with truth say, that Mr.
Baffles's abilities and general conduct give him a right to
my recommendation, in as far as being eminently well
qualified to assist in your coundls. I understand that he
has submitted to his friends an application to be provi-
sionally appointed to the first vacancy, and I shall be
happy if my recommendation may weigh with the Ho-
nourable Court in his behalf.*'

When these representations were received, the orders
were countermanded : and Malacca, though alienated for
a time, was restored to Great Britain by the treaty with
the Netherlands' Government, in 1824, and now (1835)
forms part of the consolidated government of Penang,
Singapore, and Malacca.

Respecting the whole of the Eastern Islands, at that
time (1808) little known or attended to, Mr. Baffles col-
lected much interesting information. It was principally
on this subject that he carried on a correspondence with

ON THE MALAYAN NATION. 27

Dr. Leyden. His letters were occasionally submitted to
the notice of Lord Minto, the Governor-General, in
whom they excited so much interest, that they led to a
{>ersonal acquaintance ; and Mr. Kaffles had thus again
the gratification of obtaining, purely from his own talents
and character, another and a still more powerfrd patron
and friend.

TO W. MARSDEN, ESQ.

" Runemede, Penang, March, 1809.
** My dear Sir,

" Two very long and severe illnesses, during
which I was under the necessity of denying myself the
use of the pen, and all kind of study, and from the effects
of which I am hardly recovered, even at this time, must
plead my excuse for not answering, or, indeed, acknow-
ledging the receipt of your polite and friendly letters of
the 18th of June and 15th of November last, both of
which arrived when I was confined to my room.

♦ * 4t * *

" With respect to the Menangkabus, I am more than
ever confident that those in the Peninsula derive their
origin from the country of that name in Sumatra.

" Inland of Malacca, about sixty miles, is situated the
Malay kingdom of Bumbo, of which you have no doubt
heard. The Sultan and all the principal officers of state
hold their authority immediately from Menangkabu, and
have even written commissions for their respective offices ;
this shows the extent of its power, even now, reduced as

28 PAPER ON THE MALAYAN NATION.

it must be in conunon with that of the Malay states in

general.

♦ « * « ♦

''In the Asiatic Researches you will perceive a long
disquisition on the Indo-Chinese nations^ by my friend
Dr. Leyden, which will no doubt interest you very much.
I wish we had the good fortune of his local information;
he was to the eastward but a few months, during which
time he lived with me ; you will see what use he made of
his time.

" I have by me a sketch of a grammar which I have
drawn out, and which I will send you as soon as I get
time to correct and copy it ; and I am gradually compiling
a dictionary, which you shall be welcome to, if it can be
of any service to you.

* «F « « #

'' I must now conclude, and apologise for the hasty
style in which this is written, the fleet having this day put
in here, intending to sail for England to-morrow. You,
my dear Sir, have been secretary yourself, and will make
due allowances."

The first literary essay of Mr. Baffles was a paper on
the Malayan nation, with a translation of its maritime
institutions, which he communicated to the Asiatic Society
in Calcutta, and from which the following extracts may
prove interesting : —

'' The island of Sumatra, as well as the islands of Java,

PAPER ON THE MALAYAN NATION. 29

Jana Uyi, or Bugislandy (Celebes,) Sulu, and the Mo-
luccas, which, with Borneo, compose what may be pro-
perly termed the Malayan groupe, are peopled by nations
radically distinct from the Malays, who speak languages
entirely dififerent, and use- various .written characters, ori-
ginal, and peculiar to each. These nations are governed
by their several laws and institutions ; and if we except
the state of Menangkabu, in the island of Sumatra, it is
on the shores of these islands only, and in the Malay
Peninsula, that the Malays are to be found. Whatever
may have been the origin of the Malayan nation, the
primary population of these various and extensive islands
could never, according to any natural inference, have pro-
ceeded from the Malays, though the reverse may probably
have been the case.

" I cannot but consider the Malayan nation as one
people, speaking one language^ though spread over so
wide a space, and preserving their character and customs,
in all the maritime states lying between the Sula Seas
and the Southern Ocean, and bounded longitudinally by
Sumatra and the western side of Papua or New Guinea.

^^ The Malayan language may no doubt be traced to a
still ftirther extent, and particularly among l3ie South
Sea Islands; but that point belongs to a dissertation on
the origin of the nation and its language, and i^ed not be
attended to here. Independently of the laws of the Koran,
which are more or less observed in the various Malay
states, according to the influence of their Arabian and

30 PAPER ON THE MALAYAN NATION.

Mahomedan teachers, but seldom further than as they
affect matters of religion^ marriage, and inheritance, the
Malay states possess several codes of laws, denominated
Undang Undang, or institutions of different antiquity and
authority, compiled by their respective sovereigns : and
every state of any extent possesses its own Undang Un-
dang. Throughout the whole there appears a general
accordance; and where they differ it is seldom beyond
what situation, superior advantages, and authority have
naturally dictated. Many of the Undang Undang contain
the mere regulations for the collection of the duties on
trade, and the peculiar observations of the port, while others
ascend to the higher branches of civil and criminal law.

" From the comparative rude and uncivilized character
of the Malay nation, learned disquisition is not to be
looked for ; but simple ideas, simply expressed, may
illustrate character better than scientific or refined com-
position. And in this point of view, however local or
particular the subject may be, the institutions and regu-
lations of so extensive a maritime nation must be in-
teresting. Considering, therefore, that a translation of
these codes, digested and arranged according to one
general plan, might be as useful in facilitating and
ensuring a more secure intercourse among this extra-
ordinary and peculiar nation, as it might be interesting
in illustrating the unjustly degraded character of so
extensive a portion of the human race, hitherto so Uttle
known, either with respect to what they are, or what they

PAPER ON THE MALAYAN NATION. 31

were^ I have long been engaged^ as far as the severe duties
of my public situation would admit, in collecting Malay
manuscripts of every description, and, in particular, copies
of the Undang Undang Malaya, which, with the curious
collections of Addat, or immemorial customs, and what
may be useMly extracted from the Sejarat Malaya and
Akal Malaya, or annals and traditions of the Malays,
comprise what may be termed the whole body of the
Malay laws, customs, and usages, as far as they can be
considered as original, under the heads of government,
property, slavery, inheritance, and commerce.

^' On the eastern side of Sumatra^ the Malay states of
Acheen, Siak, and Palembang, may be considered as of
the most importance.

" The laws of Acheen are peculiar, on account of the
severity of the criminal law ; and although it may be pre-
sumed that they were borrowed from the more ancient
inhabitants of the island, they are interesting, in as far as
they may have been generally adopted by the Malays in
the Straits of Malacca, and may have given rise to that
sanguinary disposition, by which the Malays are usually
supposed to be characterised. Those of Siak have a
peculiar interest, from the long-established connexion
between that state and th^ Menangkabus in the interior
of Sumatra. The Siak river takes its rise in the Menang-
kabu country, and has obviously been the principal outlet
6t)m the rich and populous countries in the interior, of
which so little is known.

PAPER ON THE MALAYAN NATION.

'' Of the Malay Peninsula, the principal states entitled
to notice, on the western side, are those of Queda, Malacca,
and Johore ; and on the eastern those of Tringano, Patani,
and Pahang.

'' The states on the eastern side of the Penmsula, with
the exception of Patani, which has been considerably in-
fluenced by the Siamese, seem generally to have admitted
the superiority of the Malay government first established
at Singapore, and afterwards at Johore.

*' On the island of Borneo, the several Malay states
have regulations and institutions peculiar to each, though
not difiering in any material degree from those of the
Peninsula.

" With respect to the internal regulations of govern-
ment, police, property, and what in all Malay codes occu-
pies so large a share, slavery, the Malay states in the
Peninsula have been selected, as well on account of their
connexion with the English government at Penang and
Malacca, as for the still more important reason, in a phi-
losophical point of view, of the Malays being, according
to the theory I have laid down, to be found here the least
adulterated in their character, usages, and manners. They
are bounded by the Siamese, to the north, whose encroach-
ments and establishments in the Peninsula, as they have
from time to time taken place, may easily be defined. The
Malays seem here to have occupied a country previously
unappropriated; fi>r if we except an inconsiderable race of
Caifres, who are occasionally found near the mountains.

PAPER ON THE MALAYAN NATION. 33

and a few tribes of the Orang Benua, there does not exist
a vestige of a nation anterior to the Malay in the whole
Peninsula.

'' As the population of the Malay Peninsula has excited
much interest, my attention has been particularly directed
to the various tribes stated to be scattered over the
country.

''Those on the hiUs are usually termed Semang, and
are wooUy-headed ; those on the plain Orang Benua, or
people belonging to the country ; the word benua being
applied by the Malays to any extensive country, as benua
China : but it appears to be only a sort of Malay plural
to the Arabic word ben or beni, signifying a tribe. The
early adventurers from Arabia frequently make mention
in their writings of the different tribes they met with to
the eastward ; and from them most probably the Malays
. have adopted the term Orang Benua.

'' I had an opportunity of seeing two of these people,
from a tribe in the neighbourhood of Malacca : it con-
sisted of about sixty people, and the tribe was called
Jokong. These people, from their occasional intercourse
with the villages dependent on Malacca, speak the Malay
language sufficiently to be generally understood. They
state that there are two other tribes, the Orang Benua
and the Orang Udai. The former appears the most
interesting as composing the majority; the latter is only
another name for the Semang, or Cafees.

" From the vicinity of the Jokong tribe to Malacca, and

VOL. I. D

34 PAPER ON THE MALAYAN NATION.

intercourse with its inhabitants, they may have adopted
many Malay words not originally in their language. They
are not circumcised, and they appear to have received
some instruction regarding Nabi Isa, or, as they pro-
nounce it, Isher. They, however, have no books, nor any
word for God, whom they designate by the Portuguese
Deos. The men are well formed, rather short, resembling
the Malay in countenance, but having a sharper and
smaller nose. They marry but one wife, whether rich or
poor, and appear to observe no particular ceremony at
their nuptials. The consent of the girl and that of the
parents being obtained, the couple are considered as man
and wife.

" The Malays of Remban, with whom I have had
frequent communications, adopt the broad dialect of the
Malays of Sumatra, changing the a at the end of a word
into : this peculiarity may be still observed among many
of the inhabitants of the southern part of the Peninsula.

'^ The following is a translation of the Malayan history
of the first arrival of the Portuguese at Malacca : —

" ^ Ten Portuguese vessels arrived at Malacca from
Manilla, for the purpose of trade, during the reign of the
Sultan Ahmed Shah, at a time when that country pos-
sessed an extensive commerce, and every thing in abun-
dance, when the affairs of government were well adminis-
tered, and the oflScers properly appointed.

" ' For forty days the Portuguese ships traded at Ma-
lacca ; but stiU the Portuguese commander remained on

PAPER ON THE MALAYAN NATION. 35

shore^ presenting dollars by the chest, and gold ; and how
many beautifiil cloths did they present to the iQustrious
Shah Ahmed Shah, so that the Sultan was most happy !

'' ' After this Sultan Ahmed Shah said to the com-
mander of the Portuguese, " What more do you require
from us, that you present us such rich presents ?" To
this the commander replied, " We only request one thing
of our friend, should he be well inclined towards the white
men." Whereupon Sultan Ahmed Shah said, " State what
it is that I may hear it, and if it is in my power I will
comply with the request of my friend." The Portuguese
answered, " We wish to request a small piece of ground,
to the extent of what the skin of a beast may cover."
'* Then," said the Sultan, ''let not my friends be unhappy,
let them take whatever spot of ground they like best, to
the extent of what they request." The captains were
highly rejoiced at this, and the Portuguese immediately
landed, bringing with them spades, brick, and mortar; the
commander then took the skin of the beast, and having
rent it into cords, measured out therewith four sides,
within which the Portuguese built a store-house of very
considerable dimensions, leaving large square apertures in
the walls for guns ; and when the people of Malacca in-
quired the reason of the apertures being left, the Portu-
guese returned for answer, " These are the apertures that
the white men require for windows." The people of
Malacca were satisfied and content.

Alas ! how often did the Bendahara and Tumun-

f< (

36 CONQUEST OF MALACCA BY THE PORTUGUESE.

gangs approach the Rajah with a request that the white
men might not be permitted to build a large house : but
the Rajah would say^ " My eyes are upon them, and they
are few in number : if they do any wrong, whatever it may
be, I shall see it, and will give orders for their being
massacred, — (literally, I will order my men to amok, or, as
it is vulgarly termed, run a muck among them.)" Not-
withstanding this, the Bendahara and Tumungungs re-
mained dissatisfied in their hearts, for they were wise men.

" ' After this the Portuguese, during the night, con-
veyed cannon into their storehouse, and they landed
small-arms, packed in chests, saying their contents were
cloths; and in this manner did the Portuguese deceive
and cheat the people of Malacca !

" ' What the Portuguese next did the people rf
Malacca were ignorant of, but it was long before the store-
house was completed ; and when all their arms were in
order, then it was at midnight, at a time when the people
of Malacca were asleep, that the Portuguese began to fire
off their guns from the fort of Malacca !

" ^ They soon destroyed aU the houses of the people
of Malacca, and their Nibong fort ; and it was during this
night, when the Portuguese first attacked the people of
Malacca, that Sultan Ahmed Shah, with his people, fled in
all directions, for no one could remain to oppose the
Portuguese.

" ' Thus did the Portuguese take possession of Malacca,
whilst Sultan Ahmed Shah fled to Moar, and from thence

ATTACK OF THE DUTCH ON MALACCA. 37

in a short time to Johore, and afterwards to Bentan^ to
establish another country. Such is the account of the
Portuguese taking the kingdom of Malacca fipom the
hands of Sultan Ahmed Shah.

" ^ During thirty-six years, three months, and fourteen
days, the Portuguese were employed in the construction
of the fort, and then it was completed.

" ' From this time the Portuguese remained in quiet
possession of Malacca for about nine years and one month,
when the country once more began to flourish, on account
of the quantities of merchandise brought there from all
quarters. Such is the account of the country of Malacca
under the Portuguese.

" ' After this period, a Dutch vessel arrived at Malacca
for the purpose of trade ; the vessel's name was After-
lenden, and that of the captain, Ibir. The captain per-
ceived that Malacca was a very fine place, and had a good
fort; therefore, after the Dutch vessel had traded for
fifl:een days, he set sail for Europe, and arriving after a
considerable time at the great country, he gave intelli-
gence to the great Bajah of what he had seen of the
country of Malacca, the extent of its commerce, and the
excellence of its fort. On this, the Bajah of Europe said,
" If such is the account of Malacca, it is proper that I
should order it to be attacked." Twenty-five vessels were
thereupon ordered by the Rajah of Europe, for the purpose
of attacking Malacca, and troops being embarked in each,
they first set sail for the kingdom of Bantam, in the

38 ATTACK OF THE DUTCH ON MALACCA.

country of Java, where the Dutch were on terms of
friendship.

" ' At Bantam they found two Dutch ships^ and a
ketch^ and after having taken on board buSSadoes, and
provisions for the use of the persons on board, the vessels
then sailed for Malacca.

'' ' As soon as the fleet arrived at Malacca, the Dutch
sent a letter to the Portuguese, telling them to hold
themselves in readiness, as it was the intention of the
Dutch to commence the attack on the morrow, at mid-day.
To this the Portuguese replied, " Come when you please,

we are ready."

'' ' On the next day the Dutch commenced the attack,
and the war continued for about two months; but the
country of Malacca was not carried, and the Dutch re-
turned to Bantam, where they remained quiet for some
time, in the intention of returning to Europe ; all the
great men on board feeling ashamed of what had hap*
pened.

'' ' The great men in each of the vessels, having after-
wards held consultations respecting another attack on
Malacca, they proceeded against it a second time, but it
did not surrender. The Dutch now sent a letter to
Johore, in terms of friendship, to the Sultan, requesting
his assistance, in the attack of Malacca. With this the
Bajah of Johore was pleased, and an agreement was
entered into between the Bajah of Johore and the Dutch,
which was sworn to ; so that the Dutch and Malays became

ATTACK OF THE DUTCH ON MALACCA. 39

as one^ as far as concerned the taking of Malacca. An
agreement was made that the Dutch should attack from
the sea^ and the people of Johore from the land. If the
country surrendered, the Dutch were to retain the coun-
try, and the cannon ; and every thing else that might be
found within Malacca was to be equally divided between
the Dutch and the people of Johore.

" ' When these terms were agreed upon, the men of
Johore and the Dutch sailed for Malacca, and after at-
tacking it for about fifteen days, from the sea, many were
slain, as well Portuguese as Malays and Dutch. The
Malays then held a consultatidn, and began to think, that
if they fought against the white men according to this
fashion, Malacca would not fall for ten years. It was
therefore agreed upon by all the Malays, that fifty men
should enter the fort of Malacca, and run a muck or
meng-amok.

'' ' The Malays then selected a lucky day, and on the
twenty-first day of the month, at 5 o'clock in the morning,
the fifty Malays entered the fort, and commenced amok,
and every Portuguese was either put to death, or forced
to fly into the interior of the country, without order or
regularity.

'' ' On this, the Malays exerted themselves in plundering
Malacca, and the whole was divided between the men of
Johore and the Dutch, according to their agreement.

" ' The men of Johore then returned to the country of
Johore, and the Dutch remained in possession of Malacca.

40 PAPER ON THE MALAYAN NATION. .

'' This is the account of former times.*

" To return to the subject of the Undang Undang
Malaya^ the collection of Malay laws, as far as regards the
Malayan nation separately, is nearly completed ; but it is
advisable to adopt a more extensive plan, embracing the
original institutions of the various nations among the
Eastern Islands.

* 4i # ♦

'' The most obvious and natural theory on the origin
of the Malays is, that they did not exist as a separate
and distinct nation until the arrival of the Arabians in the
Eastern Seas. At the present day they seem to differ
from the more original nations, from which they sprung
in about the same degree, as the Chuliahs of Kiling differ
from the Tamul and Telinga nations on the Coromandel
coast, or the MapiDas of Malabar differ from the Nairs,
both which people appear, in like manner with the Malays,
to have been gradually formed as nations, and separated
from their original stock by the admixture of Arabian
blood, and the introduction of the Arabic language and
Moslem religion.

" The word jahui is the Malay term for any thing mixed
or crossed ; as when the language of one country is written
in the character of another, it is termed b'hasa jahui, or
mixed language; or when a child is bom of a Kiling
father and Malay mother, it is called anah jahui, a child
of mixed race. Thus the Malay language, being written
in the Arabic character, is termed b'hasa jahui; the

LETTER FROM DR. LEY DEN. 41

Malays^ as a nation distinct from the fixed population of
the Eastern Islands^ not possessing any written character
but what they borrow from the Arabs.

" With respect to the maritime institutions which I
have now the honour to lay before the Asiatic Society,
they have been selected on account of their singularity
and characteristic peculiarities. The power of life and
death, vested in the Nakhodah, or captain of a vessel,
may be considered as purely Malay, or at any rate to
have had its origin in the Eastern Islands : the Arabs,
from whom alone they could have borrowed a foreign sea-
code, not possessing, as far as I have been able to ascer-
tain, any treatise whatever on maritime law, or in any
instance admitting the authority of the Nakhodah to
inflict capital punishments. In this point of view, the
paper, even in its present state, may not be uninteresting ;
and it may tend, in some degree, to account for some of
the numerous peculiarities of a nation generally believed
to act on most occasions solely from individual will, and
ferocious passion.*'

The following letter from Dr. Leyden to Mr. Raffles
was written at this time, and has reference to this paper :

" Calcutta^ October 9, 1809.
" My DEAR Raffles,

'' I have received both your letters, and with
great vexation have to inform you that Lord Minto is at
present gone to the unfortunate presidency of Madras,
where I believe he has got his hands full. I laid before

42 LETTER FROM DR. LEYDEN.

him without delay the manuscript oonoeming Malacca,
with which he was greatly pleased, and desired me to say
he should be gratified in receiving immediately from your-
self any communications respecting the eastern parts of a
similar nature. I shall not fail to write to him as soon as
I am a little recovered, for I have been for some time
(days I mean) confined to bed by a smart attack of fever.
However, I am to-day up for the first time, but not at all
able to write letters, so you must excuse me for the present.
" My literary studies were quite knocked on the head
for some time, by the duties of a magistrate in so large a
district as the twenty-four Pergunnahs, and I was after-
wards for some months also magistrate of Nadeah, where
I was constantly engaged in bush-fighting in the jungles.
I have now more time, and have again begun my literary
avocations with vigour ; nor have I given up my eastern
researches quite. Now pray do contrive to tell me what
you are doing in the Uterary way, and to get me a few copies
of the best Malay manuscripts ; above all, try and get me
the works of the famous Bugis bard, Saveri-yading, and
any thing you can in Bali and Siamese. You have never^
I presume, been able to get the Batavian Besearches into
your clutches, but do try and get me the best alphabets of
aU the eastern tribes. Have you no Batta that can read
the lingo of the man-eaters ? I have got a book but cannot
read it. I must be done however and go to bed, or increase
my fever.

" Yours, ever truly,

" J. Leyden."

CHAPTER IL

Mr, Raffles proceeds to Calcutta — Proposes expedition to Java— Lord
Minto appoints him agent to collect information on the subject —
Instructions of the Court of Directors to expel the French, and to
give up the Island to the Natives — Consequences of such a measure
— Lord Minto objects to it — Determines to proceed in person to
Java — Letters of Dr, Leyden — His account of an excursion in the
Malay Peninsula — Mr, Raffles reports to Lord Minto the result qf
his inquiries respecting Java^ ^c.

Lord Minto was anxious, about this time, to place Mr.
Raffles in the government of the Moluccas, considering it
a wider field for the exercise of his talents (1809). Pre-
vious arrangements interfered with this intention ; and the
course of public events was about to open a field of still
greater importance. In the meantime Mr. Raffles went
to Calcutta, and was received with great kindness by
Lord Minto, who ever afterwards continued his firm
and steady friend, and reposed in him the most unre-
served confidence.

The ambitious views of Bonaparte began, at this period,
to be more fully developed. The annexation of Holland
to France placed at his disposal all the valuable and ex-
tensive possessions of the Dutch in the Eastern Seas ; pos-
sessions as important to Holland as those on the continent

44 PROPOSED EXPEDITION TO JAVA.

of India axe to Great Britain. France looked to Java as
the point from whence her operations might be most suc-
cessftdly directed, not only against the political ascen-
dency of England in the East, but likewise against her
commercial interests both abroad and at home.

Mr. Raffles, aware of the plans which the English
Government had formed for the reduction of the French
island, the Mauritius and Bourbon, and feeling certain^
from his local knowledge, that the resources of the enemy
would be formidable so long as the Dutch supremacy was
even nominally permitted in the eastern seas, communi-
cated to Lord Minto information of so important a nature^
that his Lordship was induced to undertake, without delay,
the reduction of Java and its dependencies. Lord Minto
decided on this measure on his own responsibility; but
had the satisfaction to receive from England an approval
of the measure before the departure of the expedition.

As this operation was dependent upon the success of
the attempt against the French islands, it was deemed
advisable that, in the mean time, Mr. Raffles should be
sent as Agent of the Governor-General to Malacca, from
whence he might superintend the necessary arrangements,
and apprize the Government of Bengal of the extent and
nature of the force required, and open such a communi-
cation with the native chieftains of the Archipelago as
would, at any rate, facilitate the extension of the British
influence in the Eastern Seas.

The confidence which Lord Minto reposed in Mr.

LETTER FROM LORD MINTO. 45

Baffles will be perceived from the following extracts of
letters addressed to him during the progress of the expe-
dition.

FROM LORD MINTO TO MR. RAFFLES.

" Calcutta^ February, 1811.

" I am now to acquaint you with my own intention to
proceed in pierson, at least to Malacca^ and eventually, I
may say probably, to Java. The impossibility of your
returning to Bengal, in time, with the information which
can alone enable me to frame instructions for the conduct
of this expedition, and for settling the consequent arrange-
ments, has been very obvious for some time. The expe-
diency, not to say necessity, of my approaching the scene,
and bringing the authority of Government at least within
reach of reference, is evident. That resolution is, there-
fore, taken.

" I count upon meeting you at Malacca ; and then, in
communication with yourself and Sir Samuel Achmuty,
the final plans, military and political, Avill be settled.

*' I have no doubt that the communications you will
have opened with the Island of Java and adjacent coun-
tries will have furnished authentic knowledge of the
dispositions we shall meet there, and enable us to place
our enterprise upon a footing which will ensure the con-
currence and co-operation of the native states, if it does
not procure the acquiescence of the Dutch themselves in
our views.

46 LETTER FROM LORD MINTO.

'' 1 must tell you in confidence, that I have received
the sanction of government at home for this expedition,
but that the views of the Directors do not go beyond the
expulsion or reduction of the Dutch power, the destruction
of their fortifications, the distribution of their arms and
stores to the natives, and the evacuation of the island by
our own troops, I conclude, however, that the destructive
and calamitous consequences of this plan to so ancient
and populous an European colony, the property and lives
of which must fall a sacrifice to the vindictive sway of the
Malay chiefs, if transferred suddenly and defenceless to
their dominion, have not been fiilly contemplated ; and I
have already stated my reasons for considering a modi-
fication of their orders as indispensable.

''The points on which I have been able to form a
judgment, with any confidence, are ; first, that we must
establish provisionally an administration to supply the
protection which will have been lost by the abolition of
the Dutch authority ; — this applies more particularly to
Batavia ; — that the Dutch may themselves be employed,
in a great and principal proportion, in this new adminis-
tration, under the control of a presiding British authority ;
— that the two principal ports of Samarang and Gressie
must be retained, with the territories dependent upon
them, at least till we can form an adequate and informed
judgment of the advantage or prejudice to be expected
from abandoning them; — that it may be considered as
doubtful, in the present state of the investigation, whether

LETTER FROM LORD MINTO^ 47

any and what other stations should be kept in our pos-
session; and these are points to be reserved for con-
sideration when we meet, or when our information is more
complete.

" To the native princes and people the abolition of
Dutch power would alone afford a gratification of rooted
passions, and a prospect of substantial relief and advan-
tage, which may be expected to withdraw them from the
Dutch and unite them to our cause; and a system of
connexion between them and the English Government
may be founded on principles so manifestly beneficial to
the people of the island, as to attach them to our alliance,
and ensure tranquillity between us.

" All this remains to be discussed when we meet : in
the mean while, take this as a sketch and colour of my
present views.

" I am, sincerely and faithfully,

"MlNTO."

It wiU be perceived, from the foregoing letter, how
difiScult it is to legislate for distant countries ; and how
careM those in power ought to be not only in the se-
lection of proper men to fill public stations far removed
from the source of authority, but also not to tie them
down too closely to any specific rule of action.

It can never be supposed for a moment, that a body so
respectable as the Court of Directors could deliberately
sanction such an expedition, without taking into account

48 LETTER FROM DR. LEYDEN.

all the probable consequences. The mere object of de-
stroying the ascendency of an ancient European colony,
however legitimate in itself that object might be consi-
dered^ as a means of weakening a declared enemy, could
hardly be justifiable, if it were to be followed up by a
transfer of that enemy's power to the hands of miUions of
unciviUsed people, who would instantly annihilate the
whole population of their ancient masters. Such, however,
would inevitably have been the consequence of an exact
obedience to the orders of the Court. It is precisely on
such an occasion that the talents, the prudence, and the
local knowledge of a distant authority are necessary to be
called into action.

It is true that, by incurring the responsibility attached
to such a departure from his orders, the individual may
sometimes risk both his fortune and fame ; but no man is
fit for high station any where, who is not prepared to risk
even more than either fame or fortune, at the call of his
judgment and his conscience.

The name of the writer of the next letter would alone
give an interest to the whole of it ; but parts are so purely
personal and private, that they have been necessarily
omitted. It was written while the expedition was still in
preparation.

FROM DR. LEYDEN TO MR. RAFFLES.

" In Campbell's case, I experienced a sad vexation,
because I was compelled to send my letter up to Barrack-

LETTER FROM DR. LEY DEN. 49

pore> for his Lordship's revision, so that it did not return
till Campbell was gone entirely. The military queries
which I send you enclosed, I regret any delay in your
receiving ; but the letter itself was only to say that his
Lordship was exceedingly well-disposed towards you,
desirous of giving you every opportunity of distinguishing
yourself, and rewarding you as highly as the imperious
nature of circumstances would permit. This you knew
very well before, and I was very glad that his Lordship
thought it unnecessary to cause me to write you a formal
letter on the subject. Indeed, Raffles, he has always
talked of you to me with a kindness very uncommon in a
Governor-General, and says, that he is pleased with think-
ing he will be able to arrange matters^ very much to your
satisfaction when he arrives. I am glad that I have been
able to keep him tight up to this point. He is still fluc-
tuating between the two old plans of keeping the country
or rendering it independent. The orders which he has
received from home are entirely and positively in favour
of the last. He is required to expel the French and
Dutch, and leave the country entirely to itself. This his
own good sense directly saw to be impossible, from the
shoals of half-castes at Batavia. Colebrook andLumsden
have succeeded m makmg some impression on him, by
talking of accustoming the Malays to independence, and
all that; but may I never be a second Draco, nor write
my laws in blood, if they succeed."

50 LETTER FROM LORD MINTO.

FROM LORD MINTO.

" It is proposed to style you Secretary to the Governor-
General when we come together ; for then your character
of agent will naturally merge ; secretary is the highest
office below the council, and was lately held by Mr. Ed-
monstone at Madras. I hope you do not doubt the pro-
spective interest I have always taken, and do not cease to
take, in your personal views and welfare. I have not
spoken distinctly on that subject, only because it has been
from circumstances impossible for me to pledge myself to
the fulfilment of my own wishes, and, I may add, inten-
tions, if practicable. The best is, in truth, still subject to
one contingency, the origin of which is earlier than my
acquaintance with you ; but I am happy to say, that I do
not expect an obstacle to my very strong desire upon this
point ; and if it should occur, the utmost will be done to
make the best attainable situation worthy of your services,
and of the high esteem I profess, with the greatest sin-
cerity, for your person.

" Your's very faithfiiUy,

" MiNTO."

It is impossible to read this letter of Lord Minto's with-
out being strongly impressed by the kind interest for the
welfare of others, the uprightness of intention, and the
sincerity of heart which it breathes throughout.

Ihiring the period of his stay at Malacca, previous to

LETTER FROM DR. LEYDEN. 51

the arrival of Lord Minto, Mr. Raffles was joined by his
friend Dr. Leyden ; who, in making an excursion into the
interior of the Malay peninsula, wrote him the following
characteristic letter.

FROM DR. LETDEN TO MR. RAFFLES.

Gappanif May 31, 1811.
" My DEAR Raffles,

'' I take the opportunity of Mr. Kock's return
to inform you that I have safely reached Gappam, and to-
morrow I shall proceed to the Ayer Panas. We made, on
the whole, a very pleasant journey, considering my expec-
tations on the subject ; and I had the mortification not to
be once compelled to have recourse to any of my old moss-
trooping habits. To compensate this, however, we had a
very severe rain for a great part of the way ; and the roads,
which pass down some very pretty declivities, were so
plaguy slippery, that they gave me no opportunity of
admiring them, excepting once, that my courser-wight
pitched head-foremost over one of them, and I head fore-
most over him ; when, thanks to my thick skull and stiff
neck, I sprung to my feet as alert as a rope-dancer, and
had a very pretty peep at the landscape before the horse
was able to rise. The country, as far as I have yet seen it,
is most excellent ; and it would grieve Mr. Seton to observe
the devastation and dilapidations visible every where. I
believe, however, I should have said delignificafians, instead
of dilapidatiom, for never a stone is used in ihe construe-

52 LETTER PROM DR. LEYDEN.

tion of a Malay house. I am very mudi pleased with the
inhabitants of the Campong, or vale of Gappam. They
are a clean^ healthy^ stout-looking race; and appear to
me to be as excellent peasants as I have ever seen. They
seem^ from the great superabundance of fruit, to be pretty
well provided in the article of food ; but how they procure
their clothing is not quite so obvious. The soil of the
ridges is a light marl, and of the bottoms a deep black
mould ; and I am sure there is not a more fertile country
in all Malabar.

" If anything occurs which anyway requires my pre-
sence, let me be summoned without delay, and let me hear
of your arrangements when they are formed. I find my-
self here completely at my ease ; and that Mr. Kock has
made only a great deal too many preparations. I have
walked about aU day, and done nothing but look at the
country. I meant to have put Mrs. R. into a postscript,
but have desisted on considering that this is generally the
most valuable part of a lady's letter, and have reserved
that honour for Miss R. : apropos of ladies, I have already
become an immense favourite of that goodly old damsel,
the Pungulu of Gappam's wife, from having dined entirely
on curries, &c., of her own dressing ; the lady has not yet
ventured to show herself; but I have been informed of the
fact, which I hold for gospel. The only thing in which I
have been disappointed is in the non-arrival of the fatong
whom we summoned. But such a place as Gappam for

LORD MINTO^S ARRIVAL AT MALACCA. 53

musquitos certainly never was seen ; in spite of my thick
boots I find it quite impossible to keep my ground^ or
indeed to write a single word more than that I always am

« Your's very truly,

" J. Leyden."

On the 18th of April (1811) Lord Minto arrived at
Penang, and on the 9th of May at Malacca, where Mr.
Raffles had been long waiting for him in great amdety,
as the south-east monsoon was every day increasing in
violence, and rendering the passage more and more un-
certain.

From the moment of his arrival at Malacca, Mr. Baffles

had devoted himself with all his usual ardour to the acqidre-
ment of information on every point calculated to promote
the conquest of Java, and communicated the result of his
inquiries to Lord Minto in letters which contained a mass
of useful information. It is not easy at the present day
to appreciate the numerous points to which his inquiries
were directed; the various objects which they embraced,
the minuteness of the details, as well as the comprehen-
siveness of the views, prove the correctness, the discrimi-
nation as well as the activity of his mind.

CHAPTER III.

Account of the Eastern Islands— Products of Borneo-^ Settlements of
Europeans in the Island— Celebes — Traffic in slaves — Policy of the
Dutch, different policy of the English — Dutch factory at Japan —
Trade with— Views connected with the acquisition of Jaxa —
Countries from the Bay of Bengal to New Holland —Proposed
policy, chain of posts— Chinese in Java — Monopoly of farms, ^c, —
Arabs, use they make qf t?ieir religion — Americans, regulation qf
trade— Dutch orders respecting trade and navigation — Means
taken to keep up their monopoly of spice— Cause of the failure of
their trading ports— Former policy of the English objected to —
> Neglect of the British government— Dutch views of Colonies —
Causes of deterioration of Malay character— Piracy — Laws — Sla-
very, sources of, in the Malay countries— Laws, want of— Propa-
gation of Christianity — Advantages likely to accrue to the British
nation from the acquisition of Java and the Eastern Isles,

TO LORD MINTO.

" In my last letter (1811) I referred to the island of
Borneo, which is not only one of the most fertile countries
n the world, but the most productive in gold and dia-
monds. The camphor which it produces is the finest in
the world, and it is thought that it is capable of growing
every species of spice. Its eastern coasts, which abound
in sago, also produce a greater quantity of birds' nestf
sea slug, and other commodities in great demand in the
Chinese market, than all the other islands of the East ;

BOBNEO. 55

but the interior has never been explored by Europeans.
It may be conjectured that this ignorance of the state of
the country is one of the principal causes that no Euro-
pean settlement has hitherto proved advantageous ; but
has generally been abandoned after a short trial. The
only exception to this observation is the Dutch settlement
of Banjar Massing, which continued from 1747 to nearly
three years ago, when it was abandoned by Marshal
Daendels to the Kajah, by agreement^ for the sum of
50,000 doUars. The Rajah soon after sent an embassy
to the government of Penang, inviting the English to
settle in their place; but this application not being
attended to, they applied to me on my coming down to
Malacca last December, as I had the honour of stating
in my former despatches. I shall only add, that during
the continuance of the Dutch settlement at Banjar
Massing, the expense and revenue were always sup-
posed to be very equally balanced, and that the aban*
dbnment of the settlement was strongly opposed by
many of the Dutch.

"The only other territory to which the Dutch have
any claim on the island of Borneo, is the coast from Saca-
dana to Mampawa, Pontiana, which lies about twelve
miles up the river, and Landa, which lies about seventy
miles up the river of that name, navigable by large boats.
This territory they acquired in virtue of a cession from the
Sultan of Bantam in 1778 ; they destroyed Sacadana, and
established factories at Pontiana and Mampawa, which

56 BORNEO.

they abandoned as unproductive after a trial of fourteen
years.

*' No other part of the island of Borneo has been settled
by Europeans. The English in 1772 intended to have
established a factory at Passir, but abandoned the design
on some commotions taking place in that state. Its object
was to make Passir a depdt for opium and Indian piece
goods, and for the contraband trade in spices. In 1774,
a short time after the first settling of Balambangan, Mr.
Jesse was deputed as resident to Borneo proper, with
which state he concluded a treaty, by which the settle-
ment of Balambangan acquired the exclusive trade in
pepper; stipulating, in return, to protect Borneo from
the piratical incursions of the Sulu and Mindanawi men ;
neither of the parties, however, fidfilled their agreements,
though the residency at Borneo was continued for some
years after the first breaking up of the Balambangan
settlement in 1775.

*' On the N. E. of Borneo proper lies a very consi-
derable territory, the sovereignty of which has been long
claimed by the Sulu government, and a very considerable
part of which, together with the islands off the coast,
have been for upwards of forty years regularly ceded
to the EngUsh by the Sulus, and has also at different
periods been occupied by the English, without any ob-
jection on the part of the government of Borneo proper.
This ceded district, which extends from the river Kio-
manis on the north-west, which forms the boundary of

BORNEO. 57

Borneo proper, to the great bay of Towsan Abia, on the
north-east, is undoubtedly a rich and fertile country,
though in a rude and uncultivated state ; and it is admi-
rably situated for commerce, though the different failures
of the settlement of Balambangan may seem to indicate
the contrary. Balambangan is one of the small islands
off the northern extremity of the island of Borneo, and
included in the Sulu grant to the EngUsh. It would be
foreign to the present object, to enter into any details
concerning the history of the settlement of Balambangan ;
but it may be proper to mention, that all the gentlemen
who were engaged in the last attempt, were convinced
that the bottom of the great MaHuda bay would have
been infinitely preferable as a settlement, in every respect.
" Balambangan is, in ahnost every respect, analogous
to Penang; it does not admit of territorial extension, and
must exist, if it exists at all, by commerce solely. Mal-
luda, on the other hand, is a deep bight in the island of
Borneo, which admits of any degree of territorial exten-
sion ; may always subsist any number of inhabitants by
its own produce ; and communicates with the great lakes
in the centre of Borneo, in the vicinity of the gold coun-
tries, by a land carriage of little more than forty miles.
From the inquiries which I have taken every opportunity
of making respecting the island of Borneo, I feel per-
fectly satisfied that no settlement is likely to succeed in
that quarter, which is founded on a commercial, instead
of a territorial, basis. We have already acquired terri-

58 BORNEO.

tonal rights^ and are likely to acquire more ; and^ there-
fore^ the only question at present seems to be, whether
these can be turned to advantage, either by cultivation or
commerce. To this I should have no hesitation whatever
in answering, yes; finding the Dayak, or original inha-
bitants of Borneo, not only industrious in their habits, but
particularly devoted to agriculture, and so manageable,
that a hand^ of Malays have, in numerous places, reduced
many thousands of them to the condition of peaceAil culti-
vators of the ground. Indeed, nothing seems wanting to
effect this on a great scale but a strong government, which
can afford efficient protection to property, and safety to
the individuals ; and in the case of the Dayak, I regard
it as an advantage, that they have not hitherto adopted
the religion of Islam, and would be ready, from the first,
to regard us as their Mends and protectors. Another
great advantage which attends the formation of settle-
ments in Borneo is, that there are no territorial claims
upon it from any European nation but ourselves. To
recommend, however, any thing of the kind immediately,
would obviously be premature; as, notwithstanding the
length of time which we occupied Balambangan, not only
the interior of Borneo is almost unknown, but even a great
part of its coasts. This supineness in the government of
Balambangan is, perhaps, not whoUy unexampled; and I
fear, it must be admitted that the government of Penang
have not been much more active in illustrating the state
of the Malay peninsula, or even the provinces of Mergui

BORNEO. 59

and its vicinity, to which their attention was particularly
directed in the instructions of the Court of Directors to
the late Mr. Dundas, on establishing the presidency of
Prince of Wales' Island. The want of local information
is^ indeed^ the rock on which the infant settlements of the
English have at all times been wrecked ; and the fate of
several of our eastern settlements was, so early as the
year 1759, ascribed to this cause, by the author of the
letter on the Negrais expedition : '^ Colonies and settle*
ments of every kind must, at first, be attended with many
difficulties, which, however, a judicious perseverance will
surmount, if there be not some original default in the
establishment. It must be obvious to every one, that the
English never made a settlement in which they were not
impeded by some unforeseen difficulties^ so as at last fre«
quently to make abandoning the in&nt establishment
appear the most prudent step, without even hoping any
return for the prodigious expense which may have been
incurred by the undertaking. Various reasons,'' adds that
author^ '' may be ascribed for this event ; but incapacity in
the person entrusted with the management, and the want
of proper previous examination of the pljuse, seem to me the
most common and most considerable. Without stopping to
inquire how far the want of success in our several attempts
to settle Balambangan may have been fairly attributable to
either of these causes, I may safely venture to assert, that
it failed the last time chiefly firom its being solely a mili-
tary establishment, without either professional merchants

BORNEO.

or mercantile adventure being attached to it. The obser-
vations which I have submitted with respect to Malluda,
apply to it chiefly as a territorial establishment ; but there
is no doubt that it would speedily attain commercial im-
portance. The contraband trade in spices^ which was a
principal object in the former attempts to settle Balam-
bangan^ is no longer any object to the English. Many
commercial views, however, which influenced the original
establishment of Balambangan, still exist in equal or supe-
rior force, especially those which related to Cochin China>
Champa, and Camboja. There are some additional rea^
sons which, perhaps, should require us to direct our
attention towards Cochin China. The present King of
Cochin China is the true heir and only lineal descendant
of the ancient royal family of Siam, which was extirpated
by the Burmans about the year 1765, and is considered as
such by a considerable part of the Siamese nation ; and
as the present Siamese government is weak and distracted,
it has for some years been considered as a very probable
occurrence, that he will soon find or take an opportunity
of asserting his claims to the throne of Siam. Though
this Prince has derived great assistance from the French
in his dominions, on many former occasions, he is ob-
viously jealous of all European interference, and may be
considered as more under the influence of the maxims of
Chinese policy than of any European power. He for-
merly treated our advances with something more than
marked indifierence ; and his disaffection has been so

BORNEO. 61

much increased by the result of some transactions with a
mercantile house in Madras^ that he has lately ordered
that no Englishman shall be permitted to set foot in his
country. As it is understood by the Portuguese, the
only nation to whom any considerable degree of inter-
course with his dominions is permitted, that he has lately
conquered some districts belonging to the Chinese em-
pire, perhaps an overture to a treaty might be made to
him, for the purpose of establishing a tea trade with his
dominions, an object which has formerly been conceived
to be practicable. It is not, however, probable, that any
thing more than a very limited and hampered trade would
ever be permitted with Cochin China; and this will be
the more apparent, if we consider the slavish and humi-
liating manner in which all traffic still is, and has been,
carried on, both with Cochin China and Siam, by the
few ships that frequent their ports from Surat and
Macao, carrying chiefly gold and silver brocades, chintzes,
and the finest cloths of Indian manufacture ; Arabian
gums, and China ware, with the richest silks. On
arriving in port, the most valuable part of the cargo is
immediately presented to the King, who takes as much
as he pleases ; the remaining part is chiefly consumed in
presents to the courtiers and other great men, while the
refrise of the cargo is then permitted to be exposed to
sale. The part which is consumed in presents to the
great men is entire loss : for that which the King receives,
he generally returns u present, which is seldom adequate

MINDANAWI.

to the value of the goods which he has received ; but by
dint of begging and repeated solicitation, this is some-
times increased a little. It is obvious that a trade of
this strange nature is by no means accommodated to the
habits of Englishmen; and I do not hesitate to say, that
it is with the almost unknown countries of Champa and
Camboja alone, that we have much chance of establishing
an advantageous trade, in the present state of affairs ;
and before that can be done to advantage, we must
make ourselves better acquainted with them.

*' This observation might be extended to the Sulu
Archipelago, and the great island of Mindanawi; but
with respect to both of these, there are other considera-
tions connected with the extirpation of the eastern pirates
which imperiously demand your Lordship's attention.
The Sulus are a bold and enterprising race, apparently
of the mixed Malay and Philippine breed. They have
had frequent wars with the Spaniards of Manilla, and have
never acknowledged their authority. The Sulu islands
are numerous, but individually of small extent, and
situated between the Philippines and the island of Bor-
neo. They have generally adopted the religion of Islam;
and though active and enterprising, are in point of cha-
racter extremely vicious, treacherous, and sanguinary.
They are not very numerous, as the inhabitants of the
Sulu islands, in their most flourishing state, could not be
estimated at more than 60,000 souls, and, if we add their
dependencies, at about 100,000 souls. About fifty years

MINDANAWI. 63

ago they were much devoted to commerce, and we had
a commercial resident in Sulu for some time, about the
period of the first settling of Balambangan ; it was soon,
however, found that the government was too weak to yield
any efficient protection, and was forced to be withdrawn.
Since that time it has been subject to constant civil com-
motions, and the breaking down of the government has
covered the Sulu seas with fleets of formidable pirates.

'^ With respect to the great island of Mindanawi, it is
the original source of the Lanuns, the most formidable of
all the eastern pirates. This island lies between the
Moluccas and the Philippines. The northern coast of
this island is under a precarious subjection to the Spa-
niards. The great Lanun bight is occupied by a number
of small chieftains, who have in every age been greatly
addicted to piratical practices. The most powerfiil state
on the island, however, is that of Mindanawi, governed
by a sultan of the religion of Islam, though the i great
mass of his subjects are pagans, in almost every respect
similar to the aboriginal inhabitants of Borneo. The
state of Mindanawi has repeatedly, on former occasions,
attempted to open an amicable intercourse with the Eng-
lish on the most liberal terms. For the present Sultan's
sentiments, I need only refer your Lordship to his own
letter lately received, in enclosizre No. 8 ; and I allude to it
in this place, because, from information received from that
quarter, there is great reason to apprehend that the mili-
tary stores which your Lordship despatched to this prince

CELEBES.

by Captain Masquerier^ of the brig Jane^ have never been
delivered. I am informed that the Mindanawi state is at
present torn with factions^ but that the sultan still retains
his authority in a considerable degree; and I have no
doubt that your Lordship's countenance eictended to him
would^ without much trouble^ give it tranquillity and sta-
bility^ and prevent the Lanuns and pirates being aug-
mented by the whole force of Mindanawi, which must be
the inevitable consequence of the breaking up of this
state. Some explanation of the measures which we may
find it necessary to take in this quarter, as well as con-
cerning the general maxims of our policy to the eastward,
may probably be due to the Spanish government of
Manilla.

" With respect to the island of Celebes, and in parti-
cular Macassar, its principal settlement, it will be obvious
to your Lordship that the same reasons which induced the
Dutch to occupy and retain it do not exist for the Eng-
lish. From its situation in the vicinity of the spice-
islands, and from the spirit of the tribes which inhabit it,
their activity and commercial turn, this island has long
been a subject of such jealousy to the Dutch, that they
have been content to support upon it a losing establish-
ment, for the purpose of repressing the native trade of the
inhabitants, and preventing other European nations from
forming establishments upon it. But though the Dutch
establishment at Macassar was a losing concern in the
hands of that government, it is by no means obvious that

CELEBES. 55

this would be the case under a different system of ma-
nagement; the high population of the island, the riches
of many individuals, and their expensive taste in dress
and other luxuries, would seem to indicate precisely the
contrary. It is possible, therefore, that various weighty
reasons may be found, independent of the motives which
influenced the Dutch, to induce us to retain their esta-
bUshments on Celebes, or even to enlarge them. Even
in its present state, the island of Celebes may be reckoned
populous, if compared with many of the islands of the
east. It has, however, greatly decUned since it was
settled by the Hollanders, who have not only followed
their constant practice of fomenting civil wars, and exciting
rebellions and commotions of every kind in Celebes, but
have encouraged and carried to a greater extent the
traffic of slaves than in almost any other of their eastern
possessions. About the period of the first arrival of
Europeans in the east, the Macassar and Bugis tribes
were among the principsd dealers in spices, and the island
of Celebes was nearly Under the authority of a single
sovereign. On the breaking down of this great empire,
several lesser states rose from its ruins. By exciting
dissensions among these states, and aiding one against
another, the Dutch at last contrived to render all the
states of the island subservient to their views. The policy
which I conjecture we shall subsequently find it proper to
fijllow is exactly the opposite of this. We may, with
great facility, and without much trouble, employ our

VOL. I. F

CELEBES.

influence and mediation to heal the dissensionB of the
native princes^ to establish firmly ancient territories,
check innovations^ and prevent civil wars as much as lies
in our power ; at the same time seizing every opportunity
of prevailing on them to discourage and abandon the de-
structive traffic in slaves. To this ne£Eurious trade, which
has desolated this island, as well as all the small islands
in its vicinity, the Bugis men and Macassar men have in
a great measure been driven by the monopolies of the
Dutch, which have, in a great degree, driven the fair mer-
chants from the seas, and left the main to kidnappers aiv^l
pirates. The increase of security in the country will pro-
duce the increase both of wealth and population, which
will of coiurse cause an increase of the consumption of
opium, piece-goods, and other Indian commodities. Had
it not been for the contraband trade which the English
carried on at almost all times with the states of Wajjo and
Mandhar, little doubt can be entertained that the trade of
Macassar, in these articles alone, would have compensated
the loss which the Dutch assert that they have always
sustained from this establishment. Notwithstanding some
late disagreements of the English with the Bugis tribes,
arising from the impossibility of explaining to the eastern
nations the English system of blockade, I do not hesitate
to affirm, that the inhabitants of Celebes are generally
well affected to the English nation, to which they have
always had a strong attachment ; and, since my return to
Malacca, I have, to a considerable extent, in several in-

JELOLO. 67

stances^ derived essential advantage from the exertion of
some of their most respectable traders^ in communicating
•with the native princes. The effect of a liberal line of
conduct and pohcy adopted towards the tribes of Celebes,
would certainly be to create a powerful and active nation
in the centre of the eastern islands, attached to the Eng-
lish by benefits, and looking to them in a great measure
for protection — ^who, without becoming formidable to our-
selves, might easily be rendered formidable to any other
nation.

" There is likewise another consideration with regard to
Celebes which deserves attention. The Macassar and '
Bugis tribes are the most bold, adventurous, and enter-
prising of all the eastern nations, and extremely addicted
to a mihtary life. They are equally celebrated for their
fidelity and their courage, and for this reason they have
long been employed, as the Swiss in Europe, not only in
the armies of Siam, Camboja, and other countries, but
also as the guards of their princes. They can be recruited
with fecility, and easily submit to military discipline; and
it is probable that better mercenaries could not be found
for maintaining several of our Oriental possessions.

''The observations that I have taken the liberty of
suggesting to your Lordship respecting the island of
Celebes, apply with nearly equal force to the island Jelolo,
or Halamahera, which is situated between the Moluccas
and the Papua Islands, as Celebes itself is situated
between the Moluccas and Borneo. Jelolo has some-

CFXKBRS — JELOLO.

times, from its form, been denominated Little Celebes ;
with the western coast of this island we are at present
little acquainted ; but the inhabitants of the western
coasts, especially those of Osso and Maba, with their
Sovereign, the son of our old ally the Sultan of Tidore,
have lately taken every means of evincing their tried
attachment to the EngUsh nation. It appears they
have lately aflTorded every sort of supply, in the most
iiberal way, to some EngUsh whalers, and are proud
to declare, on all occasions, that they owe their existence
to the liberal suppUes which your Lordship was pleased
to afford them in their extreme necessity. This nation,
Klce those of Bali and Bugis-land, seems worth the
encouraging ; and the determined perseverance with
which they opposed themselves to all the efforts of the
Dutch and their auxiliaries, cannot fail to excite the
sympatliies of the EngUsh nation. The three islands
of BaU, Celebes, and Jelolo, occupy the most command-
ing positions in the centre of different groups of islands,
and each of them, without becoming formidable to our-
selves, is capable of being rendered extremely formidable,
through our means, to any other European power. The
different nations which occupy them have always been
particularly attached to the EngUsh ; and no European
nation, with the exception of the Dutch in Macassar,
have claims on any considerable portion of their terri-
tories. I therefore beg leave to submit to your Lord-
ship's particular consideration, whether or not every

JAPAN. 69

practical means which may tend to attach and afiiliate
these nations to the English will not materially tend
to strengthen our interest to the eastward, and even
tend to render our influence permanent in these regions,
and independent of any arrangement which may take
place subsequent to a general peace.

'' The only remaining Dutch possession to which it is
necessary at present to request your Lordship*s attention
is the factory at Japan. The information which I have,
been able to procure relative to this factory is of a
general nature ; and my observations, therefore, shall be
confined to a very slight sketch of its general manage-
ment. The empire of Japan has for a long period adopted
and carried into ejSect all the exclusive maxims of Chinese
policy with a degree of rigour unknown even in China
itself. Previous to the expulsion of the Portuguese and
the extirpation of Christianity in the latter part of the
seventeenth century, the Japanese trade was reckoned by
far the most advantageous which could be pursued in the
East, and very much superior to either the Indian cm:
Chinese trade. After the expulsion of the Portuguese, a
very extensive trade was for some time permitted to be
carried on by the Dutch, on account of the benefits which

the Japanese conceived they had received from that
nation during the Portuguese war, and especially the
detection of a formidable conspiracy of some of the
Japanese princes to dethrone the emperor, which was
detected by the Dutch intercepting the ship which con-

JAPAN.

veyed the correspondence of the conspirators. It was
for these reasons that the Dutch originally procured die
imperial edict by which they were permitted to trade to
Japan^ to the exclusion of all other European nations.
This public act of their ancestors the Japanese have
repeatedly declared that they will not cancel^ but they
have done every thing but formally cancel^ for a more
limited and less free trade was never carried on by one
rich nation to another. For more than half a century,
the Dutch trade has been limited to two yearly ships from
Batavia^ the cargoes of both of which scarcely ever exceed
200,000 dollars, and their only profitable returns are in
Japan copper^ and a small quantity of camphor. To
show themselves impartial in their restrictions^ the
Japanese have limited the traffic of the Chinese^ the
only eastern nation whom they suffer to trade with
them at all, in a similar manner to that of the Dutch,
and they suffer no more than six Chinese junks to
visit Nangasaki in the year. The trade of the two
favoured nations, the Dutch and the Chinese, is also
limited to the single port of Nangasaki. In pursuance
of their exclusive maxims, and conformably to the terms
of their agreement with the Dutch, the Japanese have on
every occasion followed an uniform line of conduct, and
rejected in the most peremptory manner the various
overtures of different nations of Europe, refusing equally
to have any intercourse, negociations, or commerce with
any of them : it must also be admitted that the whole

JAPAN. 71

foreign trade of Japan^ compared with the riches of the
country; is absolutely trifling ; nor is there any rich or
powerM body of men^ like the Hong %ierchants of
China;, at all interested in its continuance. The yearly
presents, whether offered to the governor of Nangasaki
or the emperor> are of no great value^ and rigidly
limited by law and usage; and as the government of
Japan is much stronger and more vigilant than that of
China> no such abuses can be ventured on at Nangasaki
as take place at Canton. From these reasons there is
great cause to think that^ if the Japanese ftilly compre-
hended the nature of the events which have taken place
in Holland and now threaten Batavia^ all intercourse
between the Japanese and Europeans would imme-
diately be brought to a termination. The Japanese cour
eeive that they have entered into engagements with the
Dutch only while they exist as a nation^ and there is the
utmost reason to think that in the event of the Dutch
merging in any other nation they would by no means
consider these engagements as of any force. Their
foreign trade supplies them with no articles of imperioiis
necessity, and is of no advantage to any great national
body. Indeed the only persons who have any serious
interest in it is the corps of Dutch interpreters, a small
body who follow this hereditary occupation, and have no
important influence in the state, and who are required

to study Dutch, and to transact business in it, in order

that Europeans may have no occasion or opportunity

of acquiring the Japanese language : as Japan, bow*
ever, is almost totally secluded from the rest of the
world, it is not probable that these events will be
speedily communicated to them by the Dutch &ctory.
A more probable event is that, immediately on the fall
of the Island of Java, the Dutch factory at Canton will
endeavour to avail themselves of the opening, in con-
junction with the Americans, and perhaps the Portu-
guese, to invest a part of their dormant capital for
the Japan market, and advise the Dutch factory of
Nangasald to keep up the deception, and put the Ja^
panese on their guard against- the overtures of the
English. Certain it is that in the case of Japan our
superior force can be of no avail to us, but rather, on
the contrary, may excite the greater jealousy.

" The situation of the Dutch factory at Japan is very
similar to that at Canton in China, which, as' far as
regards the establishment in China, may survive all
the disasters of both Batavia and the mother country.
The Japanese are acquainted with the English, but
they have only become acquainted with them from the
Portuguese and the Dutch, both of whom ; were inte-
rested in engrossing the Japan trade, and have there-
fore, no doubt, taken care to prepossess the Japanese
in the strongest manner against the English. Indeed,
when Captain Pellew visited Nangasaki, about three
years ago, though he might have plundered the Dutch
factory had it contained anything valuable, he found

JAPAN, 73

that the Japanese would listen to no overtures of inter-
course: about the same time they rejected^ with equal
steadiness^ the Russian embassy despatched directly to
Japan^ revising equally to admit of any overtures on
the part of the Russians^ and to accept of the valuable
presents brought by the ambassador. The same fate
has attended some late attempts of the Americans to
establish an intercourse with Japan ; and I am strongly
of opinion that there is not the least reason to hope
that any of our overtures would meet with a more
favourable reception, if not supported by the repre-
sentations of the Dutch who are at present residents
in the factory at Nangasaki. I therefore beg leave to
state to your Lordship, as my decided opinion, that
the only chance which we have for retaining the Japanese
trade, is by gaining to our interest the present Dutch
residents at Japan, and the Japanese corps of Dutch
interpreters, at whatever price it may cost. With respect
to the means by which this may be best accompUshed,
it is probable that better information than we yet pos-
sess may be procured at Batavia, before it become neces-
sary to despatch the yearly vessel for Japan, which is
about the beginning of March. Fvery precaution must
doubtless be used to secure the reception of an EngUsh
agent in the first place, and to make the transition
as imperceptible as possible from the Dutch to the
English. The last Japanese invoices of articles re-
quired by the Board of Trade will be found at Batavia,

74 t«LlCY OF THK DUTCH.

and may be aiuweml exactfy ; and it will be requiaite
for the EngUih t^nt, if received at all, to reside in
Japan till the return of the ship next aeaaon, aocordiK^
to the Dutch ceremonial ; and if in the interim he could
acquire the Japanese language, and ingratiate himself
with the Bonxes, or religious of the Buddhist sects, much
might probably be done to open the Japanese trade on a
more hberal scale, especially during the yeariy journey
to the court of the emperor, when the Japanese nobles
and princes are accustomed to visit the envoy in disguise.
With regard to the present Japanese trade, it certainly is
by no means equal to that of many neglected countries in
Asia; but the principal inducement to make efibrU for its
continuance ie the prospect of ita being opened on a more
extensive scale ; an event which is very likely to be accele-
rated by the aggressions of Bussia on the Kurile Islands,
which properly belong to Japan, and several of which
the BuHsians have already reduced.

" Having thus stated to your LordBhip the foregoing
observations on specific topics connected with the acqui-
sition of Java, and the foU of the Dutch possessions to
the eastward, I shall now briefly advert to some more
general views, which appear to be inseparably connected
with them, and seem entitled to early attention.

" The annexation of Java and the Eastern Isles to our
Indian empire opens to the En^sh nation viewa of so
enlarged a nature, as seem equally to demand and justify
a bolder policy, both of a commercial and pohtical kind.

POLICY OF THE DUTCH. 75

than we could have lately contemplated. The countries
which must> directly or indirectly, fall under our influence
and authority, form a nmge of possessions which^ with im
tervak of no great importance, extend nearly from the
Bay of Bengal to our settlements on the continent of
New Holland* These are occupied, excepting where the
Dutch have taken the territorial possession into their own
handsj by several small groups of principalities, none of
which, taken separately, have any pretensions to the rank
of a powerful or independent state. The tribes of which
they are composed, though varying radically in customs,
manners, religion, and language, and possessing very dif-
ferent degrees of civilization, have long been confounded
by Europeans under the general appellation of Malays, a
term which may still be retained for convenience. It may
be safely affirmed, that about the period when the Euro^
peans first began to frequent these countries, they were
not only much more populous, but the governments were
more strong and steady, and the inhabitants in general
much farther advanced in civilization. The Dutch, solely
attentive to their own commercial interests, have, in their
intercourse with these regions, invariably adhered to a
more cold-blooded, illiberal, and ungenerous policy, than
has ever been exhibited towards any country, unless we
except the conduct of the European nations towards the
slave-coast of Africa. In some instances, as in the case
of the clusters of the Isles of Banda, the original inha-
bitants, when they opposed a resolute resistance to their

76 POLICY OF THK DUTCH.

encroachments, have been entirely extirpated. Whenever
the natives have displayed great courage and magna-
nimity of character, as in the case of the Macafisars of
Guah, and the Bugis of Soping, these natives have been
hunted down with a perseverance worthy of a better
cause. Indeed, the domination of the Dutch in the
Malay countries seems to have been maintained in direct
opposition to all principles of natural justice and sound
policy, and which amply deserves a degree of reprobation
little short of their transactions at Amboyna and Batavia,
with regard to the English. But however their policy
may be characterized, I apprehend that their claims to
territorial right in the Eastern Isles, in which all the
nations of Europe have so long and so blindly acquiesced,
will be found to be very much inferior to what is generally
supposed, unless, perhaps, in the Isle of Java itself. As
their claims, of whatsoever kind, must now revert to the
Prench nation, it will be of the utmost importance to
ascertain from the original Dutch records, how far their
territorial cessions and exclusive privileges do actually
extend; also, how far these are absolute, and how far
revocable ; and, in short, to obtain a complete code of the
Dutch treaties with all the Malay princes, since the first
commencement of their establishments in the Eastern
Isles. The diplomatic importance of such a code will b^
readily recognized by your Lordship ; and in the event
of any future negociations in Europe, may prove of the
most essential importance. The line of policy which on

POLICY OF THE ENGLISH. 77

the present occasion we ought to adopt towards the Malay
states should be as uniform in its features^ and compre-
hensive in its extent, as possible. The various groups of
states to which what may be emphatically termed our
Malay policy may extend are the following : —

" 1st. The states of- the Malay peninsula. 2nd. The
states of the Island of Sumatra. 3rd. The states of the
Island of Borneo. 4th. The states of the Sunda Isles^
comprehending the chain of islands which extend &om
-the Straits of Sunda to Timor and Celebes, exclusive of
Java, which we may except for the present. 5th. The
states of Celebes. 6th. The states of Sulu and Minda-
nawi. 7th. The states of the Moluccas, comprehending
Ceram and Banda. 8th. The states of Jelolo, or Little
Celebes. 9th. The Black Papua states of New Guinea,
and the Papua Islands in its vicinity.

*' These states I shall only enumerate here, as requiring
distinct reports on the nature of their connexion with the
Dutch, or, as we may now state it, with the French ; after
which, it will probably appear to be our soundest poKcy to
form the most intimate connexions, by treaty, with those
which have indisputable pretensions to independence.
This policy will, I flatter myself, appear obvious, whether
we contemplate the maintaining the Malay isles in per-
manent possession, or the possible transferring of the
Dutch possessions to the enemy in the event of a peace
in Europe : in the event of the first alternative, it will
enable us to turn these possessions to the greatest ad-

7o POLICY OP THK SNOLHH.

vantage, whetlier a respect be had to our Eturopean trade,
or the general benefit <^ our Indian possessions. In the
event of the second, we shall secure such a fiMting among
the Eastern Isles, and such a favourable regard among
the bravest' races, as will bafBe all the attempts of the
enemy to dislodge us. By fixing ourselves in Banca,
Bali, Celebes, and Jelolo, we should have a chain of posts
which would prevent the enemy entirely fixm attaining
very formidable power, or deriving his former advantages
from the possession of Java and the Moluccas ; and by
forming a settlement in Borneo, connected with the inte-
rior of that country, so fertile, and so rich in the precious
metab, we should soon be in a condition to compete with
them on equal terms. The whole of the states which 1
have now specified have been so much accustomed to
European interference and control, that the greater part
of them are by no means fitted for the enjoyment of a fair
and liberal independence, nor are they likely to become so
for a Beries of years. At the same time, the treatment
which they have experienced from the Dutch has been in
general so extremely galling and oppressive, that a more
liberal policy can hardly fail of conciliating their affections
in a high degree ; sufficiently conscious of their inability
to stand alone, and warned by the breaking up of some of
the oldest and most powerful states, they would gladly
ally themselves to so powerful a nation as the English on
anything like fair and equitable terms, by which they
might be secured from civil commotions and the oppres-

POLICY OP THE ENGLISH. 79

«ion of foreigners^ \vithout being deprived of all their
natural advantages^ as under the Dutch domination.
Now^ as our principal political embarrassment vdth re-
gard to Java and the Eastern Isles arises from the
danger of these being given up to the enemy, in the
event of a peace in Europe, I beg leave to suggest to
your Lordship a method of avoiding a part of this danger,
which by no means appears impossible or even arduous
to carry into execution, though it is not likely to occtir to
the Malay chiefs, unless it should be suggested to them.
In ancient times, the Malay chiefs, though possessing the
titles of Sultan, or Kajah, and in frill possession of au-
thority within their own domains, yet all held of a supe-
rior, or Suzerain, who was King of the ancient and power-
fril state of Majopahit, on the island of Java, and who
had the title of Bitara. Malacca was one of the first states
that shook off this allegiance, and became in the end so
powerftd as to hold a great part of the Malay peninsula,
and of the opposite coast of Sumatra, in a similar depend-
ence, though the sovereigns of these states retained the
titles of Rajahs, or Sultans, and exercised their authority
within their own territories. Now, though the present
Malay chiefs are jealous and punctilious in a high degree
about their own titles, they are by no means equally so
respecting holding of a superior whose title would save
their own dignity ; and, I conceive, they might easily be
prevailed upon by suggestions to invest the Governor-
General of India with the ancient title of Bitara, equiva-

W POLICY OF THE SNQL1RH.

lent to Lord Protector, which has become obsolete among
them for nearly three centuries, and which would not, I
conceive, be reckoned injurious to the dimity of any
modem chieftain, whatever titles and epithets he might
bear. This would give a general right of superintendence
over, and interference with, all the Malay states, which
might be acted upon when circumstances should render it
necessary ; and might be so limited by treaty, as to re-
move any occasion of suspicion from the native powers.
It is of importance, however, that this should appear to be
the spontaneous and voluntary act of the Malay chieftains,
as by this means it would be less liable to modification, in
the event of any treaty which may be concluded in Surope
with the enemy ; but I shall here confine myself solely to
the bare statement of the idea, and leave for future con-
sideration its different limitations, and the means which
might be proposed for ciurying it into execution.

" In the districts that may be reduced under the sole
authority of the English, little doubt can be entertained
that we shall best consult our own interests by a line of
policy radically different from that of the Dutch. In ail
the eastern Dutch settlements, their favourite policy has
been to depress the native Malay or Javanese inhabifants,
and ^vc every encouragement to the Chinese, who are
only itinerants, and not children of the soil, and who
follow the general practice of remitting the fruits of their
industry to China, instead of spending them where they
were acquired. The Chinese, in all ages equally supple.

CHINESE IN JAVA. 81

venal, and crafty, failed not at a very early period to
recommend themselves to the equally crafty, venal, and
speculating Hollanders. They have, almost from the
first, been the agents of the Dutch, and in the island of
Java, in particular, they have almost acquired the entire
monopoly of revenue farms and government contracts.
At present many of the most respectable Dutch families
are intimately connected with the Chinese in their con-
tracts and speculations ; and it is only very lately that
Marshal Daendels sold the whole provinces of Pasuki to
the Capitan China, or head Chinaman of Surabaya. It
is even rumoured that this is not the only instance in
which the Marshal has assigned whole provinces over to
the unfeeling oppression of the Chinese, for the purpose
of raising temporary resources in money. The Chinese
have, in Java, been generally left to their own ^laws, and
the regulations of their own chiefs ; and being merely
temporary residents in the country, they devote them-
selves entirely to the accumidation of wealth, without
being very scrupulous concerning the means. When,
therefore, they acquire grants of land, they always con-
trive to reduce the peasants speedily to the condition of
slaves. The improvement of the people, which has never
been an object with the Dutch, is much less so with the
Chinese ; and the oppression which they have exercised
in the vicinity of Batavia has not failed to open the eyes
of the Dutch themselves. A late report of the counsel-
lors of Batavia on this subject accordingly states, that

VOL. I. G

82 CIIINESK IN JAVA.

' Although the Chinese, as being the most dihgeat and
industrious settlers, should be the most uscliil, they arc,
on the contrary, become a very dangerous people, and are
to be remarked as a pest to the country ; and that there
appears to be no radical ctu% for this evil but their exter-
mination &om the interior, a measure vhich cannot now
be effected.' Of the degree of oppression which they are
in the habit of exercising towards the peasants, some idea
may he formed from the following fact : — The staple grain
of Java is rice, and the cBtabUshcd rate of ground-rent for
rice-grounds in Java is 1-lOth of the crop. Wherever
the Chinese are the land-holders, however, they exact, as
rent, 5-8ths of the produce of the ground. Wherever
they have formed extensive settlements in Java, accord-
ingly, the native Javanese have no alternative but that of
abandoning the district, or becoming slaves of the soil ;
besides, the monopolizing spirit of the Chinese frequently
exercises a very pernicious control over the necessaries of
life, and the produce of the soil, even in the vicinity of
Batavia. If we consider the suppleness and insinuating
address of the Chinese, how apt they are on all occasions
to curry favour, how ready they are to proffer assistance
when there is no danger, and when they perceive that !t
fells in with their own interest, wo may depend upon their
utmost efforts being used to ingratiate themselves with
the English. It is, therefore, of the greatest importance
to be ^ly on our guard against this pernicious and in-
creasing influence, which preys on the very vitals of the

ARABS IN THE MALAY STATES. 83

country, draining and exhausting it for the benefit of
China. In all the Malay states, the Chinese have made
every effort to get into their hands the farming of the port
duties, and this has generally proved the ruin of the
trade. In addition to these circumstances, it should be
recollected that the Chinese, from their peculiar language
and manners, form a kind of separate society in every
place where they settle, which gives them great advantage
over every competitor in arranging monopolies of trade.
It also gives them an opportunity of aspiring after
political ascendancy, which they have often acquired in
the inferior Malay states. This ascendancy of the Chi-
nese, whether of a commercial or political nature, should
be cautiously guarded against and restrained; and this
perhaps cannot be better done than by bringing
forward the native population of Malays and Java-
nese, and encouraging them in usefiil and industrious
habits.

" The observations which I have suggested to your
Lordship regarding the Chinese are in a high degree
applicable to the Arabs who frequent the Malay countries,
and, under the specious mask of religion, prey on the
simple, imsuspicious natives. The Chinese must, at all
events, be admitted to be industrious ; but the Arabs are
mere drones, useless and idle consumers of the produce of
the ground, affecting to be descendants of the Prophet,
and the most eminent of his followers, when in reality
they are commonly nothing more than manumitted slaves :

84 ARABS IN THB MALAY 9TATRS.

they worm themselves into the favour of the Malay chie&,
and often procure the highest offices in the Malay states.
They hold like rohbers the offices they obtain as syco-
phants, and cover all with the sanctimonious veil of
religious hypocrisy. Under the pretext of instructing
the Malays in the principles of the Mahomedan religion,
they inculcate the most intolerant bigotry, and render
them incapable of receiving any species of useful know-
ledge. It is seldom that the East is visited by Arabian
merchants of large capital, hut there are num^^us adven-
turers who carry on a coasting- trade from port to port;
and by asserting the religious titles of Sheikh and Seyyad,
claim, and generally obtain, an exemption from all port
duties in the Malay states. They are also very frequently
concerned in acts of piracy, and great promoters of the
slave trade. This class of adventurers it will he our ob-
ject sedulously to repress, but a regulated trade with any
of the commercial states of Arabia, as Muscat, Mocha, or
Jidda, may prove extremely advantageous to the Malay
countries. The old Sultan of Pontiana, who was on his
guard against the machinations of the Chinese, and took
effectual means to prevent their either farming his port
duties or engrossing his trade, suffered himself to be con-
stantly circumvented and duped by the Arab adventurers
who frequented Pontiana. The errors of the fether, how-
ever, have served in some degree to open the eyes of his
son, the present Sultan ; yet he still continues to suffer
Arab traders, direct from Arabia, to trade at Pontiana,

AMERICANS. 85

duty free ; and last year this port was visited by two Arab
vessels direct from Muscat. This may serve, in some de-
gree,- to illustrate the necessity of our establishing an
equal and uniform system of port regulations through the
whole of the Malay countries ; for if the Chinese, on the
one hand, are permitted to farm import and export duties,
in different ports, they have every facility allowed them to
form combinations, in order to secure a monopoly to Chi-
nese traders ; and if, on the other hand, the Arabs, under
religious pretext, are entirely exempted from duties, they
may baffle aU competition, and the Malay countries will
inevitably be exhausted and drained, and the English
deprived of the fruits of conquest merely to the advantage
of two foreign nations, that are equally devoid of clahns
on the English and the Malays. Let the Chinese and the
Arabs, as well as the Americans, trade to the eastward,
but let their trade be regulated, and above aU, let them
not be left in the enjoyment of exemptions and advan-
tages which are neither possessed by the English nor the
Malays. Since the reduction of the Dutch influence in
the East, several of the ports formerly dependant on them
have almost become Arab colonies, as Palembang, Trin-
gano, and Telawany on Sumbawa. The evil is obvi-
ously increasing every day, and can only be checked
by encouraging the native Malays, and regulating on
equal terms the duties of the Malay and other eastern

ports.

" Another class of commercial interlopers, who will re-

quire our n^lant attention, is the Americans. Previous
to the late embargo they were beginning to frequent the
islands of Coram, Goram, and Ceram Laut, with other
islands to the eastward of the Moluccas, for the purpose
of picking up articles for the Chinese market, such as
birds' -nests, sea-slug, or tripang, tortoiseshell, &c., and
occasionally engaging in the contraband trade of spices.
Of late they have become still better acquainted with
many of these islands, from their vessels having been em-
ployed by the Dutch. If such active and enterprising
traders, who are certainly not particularly well a&ccted to
the English, be permitted to trade to the Eastern islands
on equal terms with the English, it will inevitably be in-
jurious to our commercial interests. But if they are
permitted the free range of the Archipelago, perhaps
it would be difficult to devise a measure more injurious
to our political influence, as well as our commercial
interests. The Americans, wherever they go, as they
have no object but commercial adventure, and as fire-
arms are in the highest request, especially among the
more Eastern isles, these would be considered as the
most profitable articles. They have already filled the
difierent clusters of islands in the South Seas with
fire-arms, and they would not fail to do the same in
the different Eastern islands. These considerations
seem obviously to point to a line of policy respect-
ing the trade of the Eastern islands, which in some
respects coincides closely with that adopted by the Dutch,

DUTCH MONOPOLY. 87

while in others it differs from it entirely in ultimate prin-
ciples.

'' In many respects, the commercial policy adopted by
the Dutch, with regard to the Eastern islands, and the
Malay states in general, was not only contrary to all prin-
ciples of natural justice, and unworthy of any enlightened
and civilized nation, but characterized by a degree of ab-
surdity, for which it was scarcely worth taking the trouble
of being so preposterously wicked. Thus in the Dutch
orders, respecting trade and navigation, in the very first
article it is stated, that ' All persons whatever are pro-
hibited, under pain of death, from trading in the four fine
kinds of spices, unless such spices shall first have been
brought from the Company.' After the enactment of a
penalty so outrageously disproportioned to the offence,
the authentic accounts of their attempts to destroy and
eradicate from a vast range of extensive countries the
most advantageous produce of the land, in order to favour
their own petty traffic, and their burning a large propor-
tion of the residue, in order to keep Up their monopoly
price in Europe on a small proportion of this produce,
must be viewed, by all liberal-minded and intelligent
men, with sentiments of equal contempt and detestation.
Against errors of this kind, your Lordship's presence in
the East will be an effectual preventive ; but it may still
be questioned whether, in the present state of these coun-
tries, it may not be necessary, in the first instance, to
retain some traits of Dutch policy. One feature of Dutch

I DUTCH MONOPOLY.

ilicy to the eastward seems to have been the entire ex-
usion of all other powers, whether native or European,
[cepting at certain specified ports, under their own imme-
iate influence and control. This policy was as much
mnected with the political government of the country as
ith the commercial profits of the Company : for in an
jchipelago of such an unparalleled extent, inhabited by
ibes of such various character, formidable in a high de-
ree from their very want of civilization, it was necessary

> bring forward some of the most powerful and most
ivourably-situated of these numerous states, and to hold
lem answerable for the proceedings of the smaller dis-
icts under their influence. This policy gave rise to the
itablishment of certiun regular and determined trading-
arts, and the vigilant suppression of all attempts at com-
stition and independence in the inferior states. Had
lis measure been conjoined with a liberal policy, tending

> facilitate the home trade, as we denominate it, between
lese privileged ports established by the Dutch and the
uious countries under their influence, I apprehend that
ttle doubt can be entertained that it would have tended
laterially to promote the civilization and general im-
rovement of all the Eastern nations. Very different,
owever, was the object of the Dutch agreements with the
iflerent Bajahs of the Eastern Archipelago. In some
uses it was to secure a monopoly of all the tin, pepper,
unphor, or other saleable articles that the country pro-
uced ; in another, it was to bind the chiefe of the country

DUTCH MONOPOLY. 89

to destroy the only saleable articles that the country pro-
duced, lest the monopoly price of the Dutch should be
injured by a greater quantity of such produce being
brought to market. The Dutch genius, though exclu-
sively devoted to commerce, has never yet been able to
discover, that in the long-run it must be more profitable
' to make smaller profits on a larger capital, than larger
profits on a smaller capital ;' and their policy has been
not unaptly compared to a man putting out one of his
eyes, in order to strengthen the sight of the other.
Against the policy of establishing certain determinate
and regular ports as emporiums of trade, it does not
appear to me that there are any vaUd objections to be
stated ; and I therefore submit this measure to your Lord-
ship's consideration, as the most effectual method of pre-
venting the Eastern islands from being overrun by a
multitude of unprincipled adventurers, chiefly Chinese,
Arabian, and American, whose presence in these coun-
tries will neither tend to strengthen the interest of
the British nation, nor ameliorate the condition of the
natives.

'^ If this measure, however, should approve itself to
your Lordship, it may still be proper to inquire, in what
respects our policy may be considered as superior to
that of the Dutch, and how it is calculated to promote
the improvement and advantage of the Malay nations
in a higher degree than theirs. It must be admitted
that the policy which we have hitherto pursued, with

00 NKULECT OF THK BRITISH OOVKHNMENT.

regard to the Malay nations, has been by no means of
a conciliating or prepossessing nature. Our intercourse
with them has been carried on almost exclusively by
adventurers little acquainted with either the country or
people, who have frequently been more remarkable for
boldness than principle. Indeed, the want of any settled
basis of traffic, and the long indifference of the British
government to the complaints of either party, had pro-
duced so many impositions, rcpriaab, piracies, and mur-
ders, that it has fairly been observed, that every eastern
trader must have been himself very much in the situation
of a trader in spirits, tobacco, and blankets among the
Indians of North America. It was properly remarked
by Mr. Farquhar, in his report on Prince of Wales'
Island, that this indifference of the British government
must have originated solely from the want of information,
or from its incorrectness, since little doubt can be enter-
tained that the riches of Sumati'a and Borneo are equal to
either Brazil or South America, and it is only from the
disadvantages under which we have hitherto entered into
the competition that these great sources of wealth have
been so long engrossed by the Dutch, Spaniards, and
Chinese. But this previous neglect of the British govern-
ment we may confidently expect will form no rule for the
future, and the benefits which the Malay nations may
derive from a close connection with the British government
and nation are such as there is no probability of their
ever deriving from the French or Dutch.

NEGLECT OF THE BRITISH GOVERNMENT. 91

"The doctrine that a colony should always be con-
sidered as a distant province of the mother country could
never have been received by the Dutch, and the radical
want of strength in the government of Batavia must
always have prevented them from venturing to act upon it.
Of course they must always have contemplated the pros-
perity of the Eastern tribes with the invidious regret of a
rival shopkeeper, and regarded their progress in civi-
lization with the jealousy of a timorous despot, which,
in point of fact, we know they actually did. The power
of the English in the East enables them to employ a less
timid policy ; humanity imperiously requires that . they
should employ it, and fortunately their own interest coin-
cides with these as an additional inducement.

" The causes which have tended most to the depression
of the Malays, and the deterioration of their character,
are the following : — the civil commotions to which every
state is liable from the radical want of strength in the
sovereign, and the constant wars between petty chieftains,
and heads of villages or districts : the ill-defined suc-
cession to the throne, from the doctrine of primogeniture
being imperfectly recognized in the Malay states : the
prevalence of piracy in aU the eastern seas : the system
of domestic slavery, with all its concomitant evils, as wars
for the purpose of procuring slaves, and the want of
general confidence between family and family, man and
man : the want of a generally established and recognized
system of laws regarding all questions, civil and criminal.

5k FKUDAL wars in THB MALAY STATKS.

in the Malay states : the want of a similar system of com-
mercial regulations respecting port duties, anchorage,
and other charges, to prevent arbitrary exactions in the
various Malay ports : the discouragement given to regular
trade by the monopohes of the Malay Rajahs : the
redress of these evils is, in a great measure, in the power
of the EngUsh nation ; it is worthy of their general
character, and there is no other nation that possesses
the means in an equal degpree, even if it possessed the
inclination.

" With regard to the feudal wars of petty chieftains,
and the civil commotions which constantly agitate the
Malay states, these have been greatly increased by the
policy of the Dutch, whose authority has been in a great
measure maintained and supported by the dissensions
which they were in the habit of exciting in the more
powerful Malay states. In consequence of this, we find
that scarcely a single power^ state now subsists, which
was in existence when the Dutch settled in the East.
This, however, must not be entirely imputed to the
machinations of the Dutch, hut originates in part irom
such radical defects in Mahomedan law. The prin-
cipal of these are, the expiation of murder by paying
the price of blood, and a fine to the prince ; and the want
of an express provision in law gainst treason and rebel-
lion, and the consequent opinion which is generally enter-
tained among Moslems, that whoever possesses the power
of i^suming independence possesses the right of declaring

PIRACY — SLAVERY. 93

it. Tins evil may be easily corrected by supporting the
legitimate authority by our influence, and by that means
subjecting the private quarrels of head-men gradually to
the general system of established law.

" The want of a well-defined rule of succession to the
government in the famiUes of the Malay Rajahs is con-
stantly productive of innumerable parties, divisions, and
civil agitations in every state. Tins, however, is an evil
common to all governments where the Mahomedan reli-
gion prevails, though its evils are most felt in a compara-
tively rude state of society, such as exists in the Malay
countries. The evil was prevented efiFectually during
the Dutch domination, by their assuming the paramount
right of granting investiture to every prince who suc-
ceeded to the government of a country ; and if such a
plan, as I have alluded to, were to be adopted by the
EngUsh, a similar pohcy, either by granting investiture,
or by recognizing the heir apparent, would naturally
require to be followed. A regulation of this kind, I
have the utmost reason for thinking, would be highly
acceptable to all the Malay nations : for among a great
number of them, at present, the death of a prince is
regarded with horror by all his subjects, as the signal
for intestine war, ruin, and devastation.

'' Of the prevalence of piracy on the Malay coast, and
its being regarded as an honourable occupation, worthy
of being followed by young princes and nobles, I have
already had occasion to speak. This is an evil of ancient

PIRACY SLAVERY.

date, and which has struck deep in the Malay habits.
The old Malay romances, and the fragments of their
traditional history, constantly refer to piratical cruises.
In addition to the cases which I have already enumerated,
it may be proper to add, that the state of the Eastern
population, and the intolerant spirit of the religion of
Islam, have eminently tended to increase this practice.
The Arab Sheikhs and Scyyads, whatever doctrines they
failed to inculcate, did not neglect the propagation of
one, the merit of plundering and massacring the infidels ;
an abominable tenet, which has tended more than all the
rest of the Alcoran to the propagation of this robber-reli-
gion. Numerous and various are the tribes of the
Eastern Isles which have not embraced the religion of
Islam to this day, and consequently are reckoned infidels.
All the great nations of the continent are in the same
predicament as the Siamese, Cochin-Chinese, and Chinese
themselves. Cruises against the infidels were, and are,
constantly certain of receiving the approbation of all
the Arab teachers settled in the Malay countries. The
practice of piracy, however, is now an evil too extensive
and formidable to be cured by reasoning, and, must, at all
events, be put down by a strong hand ; though precau-
tions against its recurrence may be taken in the system
which shall be adopted with regard to the Malay states,
by rendering every chieftain answerable for his own terri-
tory, and punishing in an exemplary manner refrac-
tory chiefs.

SLAVERY. 95

" Connected with this evil, though of much wider
extent, is the system of slavery in the Malay countries,
which, to apply the energetic language of Mr. Pitt to
this subject, ' has been none of the least efficient causes of
keeping down these regions in a state of bondage, igno-
rance, and blood.' On the grand evils of the system
of slavery, and its necessary concomitant, the man-trade,
and its pernicious consequences, whether personal or civil,
social or domestic, it is fortunately, at the present period,
unnecessary to expatiate, since, by the late ' Act for the
Abolition of the Slave Trade,' that system of crimes is
prohibited in all territories in his Majesty's possession
or occupation. In the beginning of the year 1806, the
Marquis Wellesley abolished slavery throughout India ;
and your Lordship, by your order of June 4th, to emanci-
pate all the government slaves at Malacca, and to direct
that hereafter no slaves shall be purchased or received on
account of government, has already given all the Malay
nations an earnest of your Lordship's sentiments on the
subject. It is certainly to the credit of our countrjrmen
in the East, that they have, at the most early periods,
opposed all attempts to introduce the abominable slave
traffic into our settlements in the East; and in proof
of this, it is only necessary to refer to an act of the
Governor in council of Madras on so early a date as
1682, prohibiting this nefarious traffic at that presidency.

" The sources of slavery in the Malay countries are
chiefly the following : — piracy, captivity in war, man-steal-

ing, and the penalties enacted in the Malay law respect-
ing debts and sundry misdemeanors. Piracy is often a
distinct source of slavery, the surviving crews of vessels
which fall into their hands being generally disposed of
by sale at the first market, as in the instance of the ship
Commerce, the crew of which, consisting of Bengal Lascars,
are reported to have been publicly sold for slaves at
Borneo Proper and Sambas. In many instances they
have employed such crews as slaves, both on board their
own vessels and on their own settlements, in cultivating
the grounds, as at Ratch, on the east coast of Sumatra.
The numerous chieftains in the Malay countries, and the
constant wars which they carry on against each other, is
another great source of slavery; the captives taken in
Buch wars are generally employed in domestic occupations,
tending cattle, and cultivating the ground, when there is
no opportunity of bringing them to market, a circumstance
which seldom occurs, since such numbers are constantly
required by the Arabs and Chinese traders, as well as the
Dutch, that the market is seldom overstocked. Many of
the Arab trading-vesseb are almost entirely navigated by
the slaves of the owners; and in their progress from
island to island, they find little difficulty in recruiting
their crew, by receiving presents of slaves ; or, if that
should fail, by kidnapping or man-stealing. This forms
a strong argument gainst prohibiting the range of the
islands to either the Chinese or Arab traders ; for if this
were permitted, the abolition of the system of kidnapping

SLAVERY. 97

would be absolutely impossible. The pagan tribes in
the vicinity of the Moslems^ such as the BaU^ and some
of the tribes of the Bugismen^ the Harafiiras, the Black
Papuas^ or Oriental negroes^ the original inhabitants of
Seram^ Goram^ and other easterly nations^ are^ in a great
measure^ the victims of the man-stealing or kidnapping
system; and, as they are only infidels, they are con-
sidered as fair booty. Further inquiries, however, are
necessary, in order to ascertain the probable extent of the
kidnapping system. But another source of this evil is
the nature of the penalties established in the Undang
Undang, or system of Malay law, respecting debtors and
persons guilty of various misdemeanors, by which these
are liable to become slaves. As I hope to be able to lay
shortly before your Lordship a translation of the Malay
laws relative to this interesting topic, I shall not enlarge
upon it at present, especially as this brings me to the
subject of general reform of the system of Malay law. It
is, however, necessary to mention, that your Lordship's
attention will unavoidably be called to the subject of the
reUef of slave debtors, and perhaps the mitigation of the
slave system in the Eastern Islands. On the subject of
slave debtors, there is reason to apprehend that the
greatest abuses exist, even in the district of Malacca
itself, especially among that unfortunate class of men who
have become bondmen to the Chinese, and who have very
little chance of ever recovering their liberty, however
small their debts may originally have been. As the most

VOL. I. H

W» WANT or A STftTBH OF LAW.

minute lockl inquiries must be necemary before any effi-
cient measures can bo taken ibr palliating or removing
these evils, I shall, in the present case, content myself
with requesting your Lordship's attention to this most
serious and important subject.

" Nothing hoe tended more decidedly to the detmora-
tion of the Malay character than the want of a well-
defined and generally acknowledged system of law. The
Malay nations had in general made considerable progress
in civilization before the introduction of the rehgion of
Islam among them. They had, accordingly, regular
institutions of their own, some of which were probably of
considerable antiquity, as those of the Javanese, Bugis,
and Macasar tribes. As these appear to have been gene-
rally derived from the Indian nations, and were radically
different from those of the Arabs, some difficiilty appears
to have occurred in adapting them to the general tenor of
Mahomedan law, and divers anomalous institutions ap-
pear accordingly to have sprung up in different states.
These occur in every department of public law, whether
commercifU, civil, or criminal, and are recited in the
Undang XJndang and Addat Malayu, which are the
systems of national law among the Malays, and which
vary considerably in different states, and still more from
the generally acknowledged principles of Mahomedan
law, as received by the Arabs. Hence there is in almost
every state a constant struggle between the adherents of
the old Malay usages and the Hajis, and other rehgious

WANT OF A SYSTEM OF LAW. 99

persons, who are desirous of introducing^ the laws of the
Arabs, in order to increase their own consequence. The
evils which result from this complex and ill-defined system
are both numerous and important, as they respect the
most essential interests of society, and afford an opening
for the caprice and tyranny of their rulers, and general
insecurity both of person and property. The Malays are
at present in a very different situation from any of the
old Moslem states, such as Persia, Arabia, or Turkey.
The Moslem religion has hitherto taken only a very par-
tial and superficial root in many of the Eastern Islands.
In the interior of all the large islands paganism still pre-
vails ; in many districts there are considerable numbers^
professing Christianity : the Chinese swarm in every
Malay country, and live intermingled with the Moslems.
This mixture of religions and tribes has tended, in some
degree, to soften the intolerance of the Moslem religion
among the Malay nations, and neither the positive autho-
rity of Islam, nor the persuasions of their Arab teachers^
have hitherto been able to induce them to abandon their
own peculiar usages and customs. Considering the^
Malays, therefore, as more open to instruction than the
votaries of Islam in general, I beg leave to submit to your
Lordship's consideration, whether the present opportunity
might not be taken advantage of to invite the Malay
chiefs to a revisal of their general system of laws and
usages. This I conceive might be done, even on a great
scale, without exciting any umbrage or suspicion in the

h:2::-:

100 WANT OF A SYSTEM OF LAW.

minds of the people in general ; for with some of these
usages, especially those wWch relate to wrecks on the
Malay shores, and the commercial regulations of the <W-
ferent ports, it will he ahsolutely necessary for us to inter-
fere at all events. These commercial regulations form a
part of the general Malay laws, and as we must in some
degree interfere with these, the same opportunity may
perhaps he taken to procure the abandonment of some
of those maxims and usages which have the strongest
tendency to prevent their progress in information and the
habits of civiHzed life. When the seven Ionian islands
were lately ceded to France, the president of the senate
offered a prize for the best dissertation on the following
question : — ' Why do the Ionian islanders occupy them-
selves only with frivolous and unimportant objects, and by
what means may their attention be drawn to things of
consequence?' Such are the questions regarding the
Malay islands, which now invite your Lordship's atten-
tion ; and in answer to them the reform of the Malay laws
may certainly be specified as one of the most important,
and as one of the means by which the benefit of the Malay
nations will be secured from tiieir connexion with the
English. With respect to the mode in which this may
be with greatest facility accomphshed, I shall only venture
to suggest, that every Malay chief might be requested to
furnish a copy of the Undang Undang current in his own
state, and to send at some fixed time one or two of the
learned men of the country, best versed in the laws, to a

MONOPOLY BY THE MALAY CHIEFS. 101

<;ongress which might be appointed f6r the purpose of
revising the general system of Malay laws. Such a plan
might be attended^ perhaps^ in the first instance, with
certain difficulties ; but none, as far as I can judge, which
are by any means insurmountable. It would be proper
to begin with settling the regulations of a commercial
kind; and as these, though copied in many respects from
the regulations of the Portuguese and Dutch, are con-
sidered as a part of the Malay law, it might be both use-
M and popular among the Malays to call in the assist-
ance of their learned men.

'' Another of the customs injurious to the Malay nations,
is the trading monopoly which in most of the Malay ports
is actually assumed, or attempted to be assumed, by the
Malay chiefs. Of this monopoly there is no trace in the
Undang Undang of the Malays, or in the fragments of
their history which I have seen, such as the traditional
annals of Malacca; and after an attentive consideration, I
am induced to think that this pernicious practice has
been entirely copied from the monopoly regulations of the
Dutch. Where this system has been fiilly carried into
effect, it has generally succeeded effectually in repressing
industry and commercial enterprise; and where it has
been for some time established, its evils have been felt
deeply, so that there is no doubt but the Malay chiefs
could easily be induced to relinquish it in favour of a
regulated commerce. The Malay laws and maxims are
fortunately of a very different kind from those which have

102 PROPAOATIOM OF CHRISTIANITT.

been adopted and systematized among the great natioiu
of the Continent in their vidnity. Theee nations, espe-
cially the Siamese and Cochin Chinese, have long been
accustomed to look up to the Chinese, with whom they
coincide in religion and manners, and from whom they
have adopted their exclusive maxims of forogn inter-
course. The Malays, on the other hand, though accus-
tomed to look up to the Arabs as their religious in-
structors, seldom hesitate to admit the supedority of both
the Europeans and Chinese, either to themselves or the
Arabs, in the arts of life and general science, and it is
certainly our interest to prevent the increase ai the Arab
influence among the Malay nations.

" From similar considerations, as well as in conformity
to the instructions issued from home, the Dutch nation
appear to have pursued as a principle of policy the
propagation of Christianity among the Eastern Islands.
The same plan had been previously followed by the
Portuguese in their various eastern possessions with great
success ; and there are now several small islands in the
Malay archipelago inhabited almost entirely by Chris-
tians of the Catholic p^^uasion, as the islands of Sanggir
and Siaiik, situated between Jetolo and Mindanawi. In
many other islands the Protestant persuasion has made
very considerable progress, and teachers in the flourishing
times of the Batavian regency were dispersed over all the
low chain of islands which extend from Bali and Lambok
io the great island of Timor. The islands in which the

PROPAGATION OF CHRI8T1AMITT. 103

Ghristian faith has been most extensively diffused are^ the
great island Ende^ or Manggerai, the isles of Solor, Sale-
pang, Lomblim, and Ombai, the great island Timor, and
the several small islands in its vicinity, as Savo, Boti, and
Samba. In many of these islands the natives, having no
written character of thdr own„ have been instructed in
the Boman* character, and taught to read Malay and
other dialects in it. There have also been various reli-
gious formularies printed for their use, and translations
have been executed for the use of these Christians in
some of their languages, which have Utile or no affinity to
the Malay. The propagation of Christianity among these
islands is obviously liable to none of the objei^ons which
have been urged against it in our Indian possessions. A
great proportion of the natives are still Pagans, under
the influence of a wild and almost unintelligible supersti-
tion, the principles of which are not recorded in books,
but are handed down like stories of ghosts, fairies, and
witches, with all the uncertainty of tradition. Accord-
ingly, in most instances, the people, though they stand in
great awe of the priests, as enchanters., or dealers with
the invisible spirits, are very little attadied to the super-
stition. Many of them are said to be very desirous of
procuring instruction, and in some places they look up
with a degree of veneration to the Moslems, a& a people
who have received something which they still want*
Besides, the attachment of the Malays to the religion oS
Islam is by no means of that strength as to emancipate

104

ADVANTAGES OF POSSESSING JAVA.

I, i

t! i:

?:i

them from their old usages^ nor to inspire them with that
contempt and hatred for other religions which is found in
many of the older Moslem kingdoms. On the advantages
which must accrue from protecting Christianity in these
Eastern Islands, and by favouring its propagation in pre-
ference to the doctrines of Islam, where it may be so
easily propagated, it is unnecessary to enlarge, in address-
ing your Lordship. Permit me, however, to allude to one
remarkable fact, which may serve to illustrate the neces-
sity of attending to the subject as a matter of public im-
portance. In our present settlement of Malacca, the im-
possibility of procuring servants for wages compels almost
every person to have recourse to slaves, and a consider-
able proportion of these are Pagans, being chiefly Battas
from the centre of Sumatra, Balis from Bali, Dayaks from
Borneo, besides natives of Timor and the more easterly
islands. Of all these slaves that fall into the hands of the
English, there is perhaps not a single one that becomes a
Christian, but the whole of them become Moslems, and
despise and hate their masters as infidels. Such is the
woeful effect of our supineness and indifference, which,
if they should extend to the East, would certainly not
tend to the progress of general improvement among the
Malays.

" In these observations I have in some degree avoided
alluding to the advantages which may be expected to
accrue to the British nation itself, and also to the British
possessions in India, from the acquisition of Java and the

ADVANTAGES OF POSSESSING JAVA. 105

Eastern isles^ because I am persuaded that the real ad-
vantages which these countries possess will be founds
under a liberal and enlightened system of management^
vastly to exceed any expectations which may be formed in
the present state of our information concerning them. In
their present state> with the exception of Java^ these
coimtries are poor in respect of general wealthy and can
only pay in rude produce for the articles which they
require from other countries. The rude produce, how-
ever, of the Malay countries is of various kinds, some of
which are extremely valuable, and equally calculated for
the European, the Indian, and the China market. The
intercourse between countries rich in manufacturing in-
dustry and countries rich in raw produce, is universally
admitted to be of equal benefit to both. In respect of
the Malay islands, India must long be regarded as a
manufacturing country, and is "particularly fitted to sup-
ply a variety of articles in general request among the
Malays, without interfering with the industry of the
mother country. The trade from India to the Malay
countries has hitherto chiefly consisted in opium and
piece-goods, for which India has chiefly received back
gold-dust, spices, gums, and cofiee. I omit the mention
of copper, as it is not a native Malay production, but
chiefly derived from Japan. The circumstance, however,
under which the Indian trade to the eastward has been
hitherto carried on, and the insecurity and want of pro-
tection under which it has always laboured, renders the

106 ADVANTAGES OP FOSSBS81NO JAVA.

past no criterion of the future, and I have no doubt it
may be improved to an almost indefinite extent, as the
Malay countries advance in civilization. The Java sngar
is at present reckoned nearly on a par with the Sne sugar
of Manilla, and the Java coffee next to the coffee of
Mocha and Bourbon. Either of these productions are
capable of being greatly extended. The Dutch, in their
usual way, restricted the cultivation of coffee to about ten
millions of pounds, though it has been stated that th e
island of Java is unable of producing at least fifty mil-
lions of pounds. The extended cultivation of these
articles must, however, be matter for future consideration.
Coffee, at present, is chiefly produced in the provinces of
Cheribon.

" With regard to the Chinese market, the Malay coun-
tries furnish a variety of articles of the most general use
and constant demand, and which do not affect either the
products or manufactures of either Great Britun or
British India. Tin is one of these products, which, finds
a constant and almost indefinite demand in China, and
which is solely produced in the Malay countries and some
of the dependencies of Siam. Pepper, which, after the
acquisition of the Dutch eastern settlements, we shall
have the command of, almost as much as of nutmegs,
cloves, mace, and cinnamon, is in considerable demand
for the Chinese market, as well as for Arabia and Persia.
The quantity of pepper yearly required for the Chinese
market has been estimated at 50,000 piculs, that of

ADVANTAGES OF POSSESSING JAVA. 107

sandal-wood about 6000 piculs, besides camphor and
benjamin^ and a variety of valuable gums^ the production
of which is nearly confined to the Malay countries. The
quantity of pearls^ mother-of-pearl, tortoise-shell, ivory,
birds' -nests, sea-slug, fish-maws, shark-fins, ebony, black
and coloured woods, for fiimiture and dye-stuffs, yearly
imported to the Chinese market &om the Malay islands
is admitted to be extremely great ; but the trade having
never been well regulated, it might be difficult, in the
present state of our knowledge, to attempt subjecting it
to calculations.

'^ In the present unparalleled state of the European
market on the Continent, it is hazardous to venture to
allude to it. It may, however, be stated generally, that
the acquisition of the Dutch possessions in the East
places the command of the spice trade, together with that
of pepper and coffee, besides a variety of other eastern
produce, entirely in our hands, and that the Continent
must either do without these articles, or submit to pur-
chase them from the EngUsh.

'^ The valuable forests of teak and other ship timber in
Java and the other Eastern isles, are acquisitions of the
highest national importance in the present state of Euro-
pean poUtics, and promise to render our navy independent
x>f the stores formerly derived from the precarious friend-
ship of the northern powers. Nor is the acquisition of a
range of countries, apparently possessing the most valu-

^ I

' >'■

i..i.!n.

'!.i

:!;i

I't

'I' i»

fiHrit

ii«i

108

CONCLUSION OF MR. RAFFLES REPORT.

able gold and diamond mines in the worlds an object
unworthy of our notice in our present situation^ in which
the dram of our specie has been great in an unprece-
dented degree^ and when for the restoration of the pre-
cious metals among us^ as a circulating mediimi, we
are likely to be left in a great measure to our own
resources.

'' To dilate any Airther on these topics is unnecessary,
as on your Lordship's approach to Java, every day will
bring forward information to which it is not now in my
power to allude. The suggestions which I have already
offered may perhaps have already appeared to your Lord-
ship unnecessarily prolix ; but in putting you in posses-
sion of all the information which I have been able to
obtain, and of all the views of the subject which I con-
sider as meriting attention, I have only endeavoured to
reply to that confidence which your Lordship reposed in
me, in appointing me your Lordship's agent to the Malay
states.

'' I have now only to congratulate your Lordship on the
most splendid prospect which any administration has be-
held since our first acquisition of India : the pacification
of India completed, the tranquillity and prosperity of our
eastern possessions secured, the total expulsion of the
European enemy from the Eastern Seas, and the justice,
humanity, and moderation of the British government, as
much exemplified in fostering and leading on new races

CONCLUSION OF MR. RAFFLES' REPORT. 109

of subjects and allies in the career of improvement^ as the
undaunted courage and resolution of British soldiers in
rescuing them from oppression.

" I have the honour to remain^ with the highest respect
and consideration,

^' Your Lordship's
'' Most faithfrd and devoted humble servant,
(Signed) '' Thos. Raffles,

'^ Agent to the Governor-General
" with the Malay States.
« Malacca, the lOth June, 1811.'*

CHAPTER IV.

Lord Minto't great mxitly ai to th«pcutage firom Malacca to Bo-
tana—ffaval men oppoeed to Mr. Rtiffiet—Lord Minto confide* i»
Mr. Rqffleg—Neui pottage attempted — Arrival off Bataoia—Mr,
Buffki givet a tketch (if Ike eventi wltieh led to hie being em-
ployed in the expedition — Eitablithment of the I^eneh poteer in
Java-^Sir Samuel Achmuty'e account o/thecapture o/Baiavia,
and of the battle of Comelit—Capitvlation of the Itland— Inter-
cepted lettere from Oovemor Jameru — Lord Minto't opinion <^
the value of the eonqueif— Death q^ Dr. Leyden—Lord 31inlo
placet Mr. Sqfflet in the govemmeni of Jaoa — Leading principlei
ttf the Dutch government— Prqeeted change qftyelem—BngStli
BendenU appointed at the native court*— Andent tempter— Pint
Colony of Hindue—Vpaepoiion— 'Journey to the Eattem dietriet.

Lord Minto, in his letter of the 11th of March, 1611,
maTiifeBted great anxiety regarding the route to be pur-
sued by the expedition on quitting Malacca ; Mr. Raffles
deeply participated in this feeling.

The difficulty was great of makiiig a passage with a
large fleet through an Archipelago, where the wind blows
strongly from one point of the compass for several
months ; where the passage between the islands is often so
narrow, tiiat only one ship can pass at a time, and then so
close to the land, that the sides of the vessel are shadowed

ARRIVAL OFF JAVA. Ill

by the luxuriant vegetation extending to the water's
edge.

Upon this subject it was found impossible to obtain any
positive infonnation — every account was obscure and con-
tradictory. Mr. Baffles did not hesitate to stake his
reputation on the success which would attend the expe-
dition, if the route he pointed out should be followed.
The naval authorities were opposed^ but Lord Minto
proved his confidence in the judgment and local informa-
tion of Mr. Raffles, by embarking with him in his Ma-
jesty's ship the Modesto, commanded by Captain the
Honourable George Elliott, on the 18th of June, 1811,
and leading the way by the route marked out on Mr.
Baffles's sole responsibility.

This route was followed with so much success, that in
less than six weeks after quitting Malacca, the fleet, con-
sisting of upwards of ninety sail, was in sight of Batavia,
without accident to a single vessel. Mr. Baffles often
spoke in after times with animated expressions of the
pleasure he felt on witnessing this happy termination
of the voyage.

Lord Minto, after announcing that he had arrived
off the coast of Java, and that the passage was com-
pleted during the height of the south-east monsoon, by
a fleet of upwards of ninety ships, adds, —

" The expectations which had been formed were veri-
fied in every part of the passage, and every thing turned
out precisely as had been foretold and proposed, with the

112 LETTER FROM MR. RAFFLES.

exception of finding less difficulty than bad been looked
for, and tbe voyage proving shorter than could have been
hoped. The whole fleet had assembled on the coast of
Java by the 30th of July, ibrty-two days, or exactly six
weeks : the Modeste, if alone, would have done it a
fortnight sooner.

"I have been the more particular in detailing these
circum stances, because this expedition must have been
abandoned for the present year, (an earlier departure than
actually took place from India having been found totally
impracticable,) if I had yielded to the predicted difficul-
ties of the passage."

The following letter to an intimate associate of Mr.
Baffles' early years was written when the fleet reached the
coast of Java, and shows his buoyancy of spirit even in
seasons of the greatest anxiety : —

"You are, either from inclination or habit, so bad a
correspondent, that I barely get an acknowledgment of
my letters, much less an assurance that they are well re-
ceived. However, coute qu'U c(Mte ; be it as it may, I'll
speak to thee, call thee Friend, dear Ramsay, be thy in-
tent wicked or charitable.

" You always said I was a strange wild fellow, insictiable
in ambition, though meek as a maiden ; and perhaps there
is more truth than otherwise in what you said ; but with
all, I will assure you this, that although, from want of
self-confidence and from natural shameiacedness, (for I
will not call it modesty or bashfulness,) I am as unhappy

tETTER FROM MR. RAFFLES. 113

at times as any poor wretch need be^ I have times in
which I am as happy as I think it possible for man to be ;
and it is one of these life-inspiring moments that I now
purpose passing with you a la distance ; and notwith-
standing my inclination of hearing, rather than being
heard, I must for once venture to be the historian of my
own tale.

" You shall have an account since I quitted Penang
in Jime, 1810, and that in as few words as possible.

" My friend. Admiral Drury, our late Commander-
in-chief, informed me by letter in June, last year, that
he had exerted all his interest with Lord Minto, the
Governor- General, to obtain for me the situation of
Governor of the Moluccas ; that his Lordship was
most favourably disposed towards me; and that, as far
as it rested with Sir George Barlow, or the Governor-
General, I might be satisfied they wished to avail them-
selves of my services.

'' The expedition against the Isle of France was about
to sail. On its success depended a still greater expe-
dition — the attack of Java. To the latter, therefore,
I attached myself; was admitted to the frdlest and most
unreserved confidence of the Supreme Government, and
in due time proceeded on a political mission to the
Eastern Isles, as the avant courier of the expedition.
I fixed my head-quarters at Malacca, made the political
impressions and intimations that were necessary, and
furnished the requisite: information. The expedition^

VOL. I. I

114 LETTER FROM MR. RAFFLES.

consisting of about ninety sail, arrived at Malacca the
end of May ; and on the 18th of June, having Been the
whole ofT, and having been previously joined by the
Governor-General, I embarked with his Lordship in the
Modeste frigate, acting in the capacity of hie chief secre-
tary. We are now off the coast of Java, having come
a-bead of the fleet ; but we expect them to-morrow, and
the attack will be made in the course of the week.

" Of the importance of this conquest, the views that
naturally present themselves on such an occasion, and the
share I have had in bringing the important point so near
a conclusion, I need not speak ; you have the opportunity
of seeing the government proceedings, which will be suf-
^ciently satisfactory.

" I beg that you will write to me to Batavia by any
vessel coming direct, or by way of India or China — if yott
Teally knew the pleasing satisfaction I derive irom having
even three words from you, I think you would not dccUne ;
at the same time, I must say, diat you are the most famous
hand for a short letter that I ever knew, and in truth Uub
is hardly reasonable, for in comparison you cannot have
much to do — 1 have, on the contrary, my hands full at all
times, witness the papers sent in by me on record, and
reflect on the numerous papers and affairs that I get
through which never reach England.

" I wish very much to hear what is said of my poHtical
ideas respecting the government of the eastward. Adieu,
my dear Ramaay, for the present : my paper is out, and

MR. raffles' appointment. 115

dinner is announced, so farewell — I will write you more
fully after we are settled. Conquer we must.

** Your's always^

<' T. S. R."

Still fiirther light may be thrown upon the views
and motives by which Mr. Baf&es was influenced in these
important proceedings, and the feelings of satisfaction
which, at the interesting moment of his arrival off Batavia,
so powerfiiUy possessed his mind, by the following letter
from him to Dr. Baffles, though written after a lapse of
several years.

"Some months had now elapsed, and it was to be
feared that arrangements for the administration of the
Moluccas were already in progress. Yet the chance
of being in time, and the expectation of still fiirther
advancing my interests with Lord Minto, weighed with
me in the resolution I took, of proceeding in person to
Bengal. My attention had long been directed to the
state of the Dutch possessions to the eastward, and as
rumours were afloat of a projected armament going against
the Isle of France, it occurred to me that the information
I possessed respecting Java might be useful, and possibly
turn the attention of our Government in that direction.
I accordingly left my family and proceeded to Calcutta in
a small and frail vessel, the only one which offered, but in
which all my future prospects had well nigh perished. On
my arrival in Bengal I met with the kindest reception

116 PBOJECTED EXPEDITION AGAINST JAVA.

from Lord Minto. I found that though the appointment
to the Moluccas had not actually taken place, it was pro-
mised to another. I in consequence relinquished all idea
of it, and at once drew his Lordship's attention to Java,
by observing that there were other islands worthy of his
Lordship's consideration besides the Moluccas ; Java, for
instance. On the mention of Java his lordship cast
a look of such scrutiny, anticipation, and kindness upon
me, as I shall never forget — ' Yes,' said he, ' Java is an
interesting island — I shall be happy to receive any infor-
mation you can give me concerning it." This was enough
to encourage me ; and from this moment all my views, all
my plans, and all my mind were devoted to create such an
interest regarding Java as should lead to its annexation to
our Eastern empire, although I confess that I had never
the vanity to expect that, when this object was accom-
plished, so important an administration would have been
intrusted to my individual charge, that I should have
been intrusted with what Mr. Marsden emphatically
observes was ' as great a charge as a nation could in-
trust to an individual.'

"It is unnecessary to enter on the dettdl which fol-
lowed — the fall of Bourbon, and the anticipation of suc-
cess at the Isle of France, encouraged a plan for the
conquest of Java. As it in a great measure originated
with me, and as it was almost entirely on my information
that the decision was taken, I naturally took a conspicuous
part, although little or nothing met the public eye. Per-

PROJECTED EXPEDITION AGAINST JAVA. 117

haps no secret was ever better kept than the projected
scheme against Java^ for until it was publicly announced^
and the intention of the Governor-General to proceed in
person was made known, not a word was surmised or
whispered on the subject.

" As an avant courier, and to prepare the way for
the expedition, I was appointed Agent to the Governor-
General with the Malay states, and took up my head-
quarters at Malacca, where the rendezvous was fixed. I
remained here as representative of the Governor-General
until his Lordship arrived, when, instead of the desig-
nation of Agent, I was styled Secretary to the Governor-
General ; in this capacity I accompanied his Lordship
to Java. Various doubts, difficulties, and, I might say,
insurmountable obstacles, had been started to prove the
impossibility of the expedition proceeding to Java during
the present season. The opinion of the naval Com-
mander-in-chief, and indeed of all constituted authorities,
was decidedly against it — ^it was in fact pronounced im-
practicable. Lord Minto alone stood firm, and placed his
entire and unreserved reliance in the opinion which I had
given him on the subject. I had ascertained the practi-
cability by an experiment in a small vessel, ' the Minto^'
^commanded by Captain Greigh, a. most intelligent and
zealous officer, who had been placed under my orders, and
to whom I am indebted for the discovery of the passage
by the coast of Borneo. At the period that the expe-
dition sailed from Malacca, it was uncertain by which

118 ARRIVAL OFF JAVA.

route it would proceed. I really believe no fixed route
was determined on, and Lord Minto had too much
judgment and precaution to interfere. He placed the
information he possessed within the reach of the senior
naval officer, and fortunately it was acted upon. On
the 4th of August, 1811, the whole of the fleet, con-
sisting of upwards of ninety vessels, arrived off the
coast ' t)f Java, without the loss of a single spar, or
slightest accident, having passed by a route previously
almost unknown, and accomplished a passage declared
to be impracticable. I will not attempt to say what
my feelings were on the occasion. We had separated
from the fleet for a few days, and it was only when
we again joined them that we saw all the divisions
united, at the close of one of the finest days I ever
recollect, and this in si^t of the land of promise. Lord
Minto, while at Malacca, had communicated his inten-
tion of appointing me to the government, in case of suc-
cess, and as 1 had nothing to do with the military ope-
rations, I now looked upon my part as completed ;
perhaps so great a responsibility was never for so long
on the head of a single individual, and the relief which
I felt was proportionate."

Brfore the expedition sailed from Malacca, it was ascer-
tained that Marshal Daendels had been succeeded in the
government and command of Java by General Jansens,
who was making all preparations within his power to meet
the expected invasion by the English.

CAPTURE OF BATAVIA. 119

The following letter from Sir Samuel Achmuty to Lord
Minto contains an account of the capture of Batavia.

TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE LORD MINTO, GOVERNOR-
GENERAL, &C. &C. &C.

Head Quarters , Weltevreeden, Attgitst 31, 1811.

. " My Lord,

" After a short but arduous campaign, the troops
you did me the honour to place under my orders have
taken the capital of Java, have assaulted and carried th^
enemy's formidable works at Cornelis, have defeated and
dispersed their collected force, and have driven them from
the kingdoms of Bantam and Jacotra. This brilliant suc-
cess over a well-appointed and disciplined force, greatly
superior in numbers and in every respect weU equipped,
is the result of the great zeal, gallantry, and discipHne of
the troops, qualities they have possessed in a degree cer-
tainly never surpassed. It is my duty to lay before your
Lordship the details of their success, but it is not in my
power to do them the justice they deserve, or to express
how much their country is indebted to them for their
great exertions.

'^ Your Lordship is acquainted with the reasons that
induced me to attempt a landing in the neighbourhood of
Batavia. It was efiFected without opposition, at the village
of Shillinching, twelve miles east of ^the city, on the 4th
instant. My intention was to proceed from thence, by
the direct road to Cornehs, where the enemy's force was

120 CAPTURE OF BATAVIA.

said to be assembled in a strongly fortified position, and
to place the city of Batavia in my rear, from whence alone
I could expect to derive supplies, equal to the arduous
contest we were engaged in.

" As some time was required to make preparationB
for an inland movement, I judged it proper to recon-
noitre the road by the coast leading to Batavia, and ob-
serve how far it would be practicable to penetrate by that
route. I was aware that it was extremely strong, and if
well defended nearly impracticable. Advancing with
part of the army, I had the satisfaction to find that it was
not disputed with us, and the only obstacle to our progress
was occasioned by the destruction of the bridge over the
Aujal river, I approached the river on the 6th, and ob-
serving, during that evening, a lai^ fire in Batavia, I
concluded it was the intention of the enemy to evacuate
the city, and with this impression I directed the advance
of the army, under Colonel Gillespie, to pass the river in
boats on the succeeding night. They lodged themselves
in the Eubiu'bs of the city, and a temporary bridge was
hastily constructed on the morning of the 8th, capable of
supporting light artillery. On that day the Burghers of
Batavia applied for protection, and surrendered the city
without opposition, the garrison having retreated to
Weltevreeden.

" The possession of Batavia was of the utmost import-
ance. Though large store-houses of public property were
burnt by the enemy previous to their retreat, and every

CAPTURE OF BATAVIA. 121

effort made to destroy the remainder, we were fortunate
in preserving some valuable granaries and other stores.
The city, although abandoned by the principal inhabit-^
ants, was filled with an industrious race of people, who
could be particularly useful to the army. Provisions were
in abundance, and an easy communication preserved with
the fleet.

" In the night of the 8th, a feeble attempt was made
by the enemy to cut off a small guard I had sent for the
security of the place, but the troops of the advance had,
unknown to them, reinforced the party early in the even-
ing, and the attack was repulsed. The advance, under
Colonel Gillespie, occupied the city on the 9th.

*' Very early on the morning of the 10th, I directed
Colonel Gillespie with his troops to move from Batavia
towards the enemy's cantonment at Weltevreeden, sup-
ported by two brigades of infantry that marched before
break of day through the city, and followed his route.
The cantonment was abandoned, but the enemy were in
force a little beyond it, and about two miles in advance of
their works at Comelis. Their position was strong, and
defended by an abbatis, occupied by 3000 of their best
troops, and four guns of horse-artillery. Colonel Gilles-
pie attacked it with spirit and judgment, and after an
obstinate resistance, carried it at the point of the bayonet,
completely routed their force, and took their guns. A
strong column from these troops advanced to their sup-
port, but our line being arrived, they were instantly pur-

122 BATTLE OF CORNELIS.

sued, and driveii under shelter of their batteries. In this
affair, bo creditable to Colonel Gillespie, and all the troops
of the advance, the grenadier company of the 78th, and
the detachment of the 89th regiment, particularly dis-
tinguished themselves, by charging and capturing the
enemy's artillery. Our loss was trifling compared with
the enemy's, which may be estimated at about 500 men,
with Brigadier-General Alberti dangerously wounded.

" Though we had hitherto been successM beyond my
most sanguine expectations, our farther progress became
extremely difficult, and somewhat doubtfid. The enemy,
greatly superior in numbers, was strongly entrenched in a
position between the great river of Jacotra, and the
Sloken, an artificial water-course, neither of which was
fordablc. This position was shut up by a deep trench,
strongly paUsadoed. Seven redoubts, and many batteries,
mounted with heavy cannon, occupied the most command-
ing grounds within the Unes. The fort of Comelis was in
the centre, and the whole of the works were defended by
a numerous and well-organized artillery. The season
was too far advanced, the heat too violent, and our number
insufficient to admit of regular approaches. To carry the
works by assaidt was the alternative, and on that I decided.
In aid of this measure, I directed some batteries to disable
the principal redoubts, and for two days kept up a heavy
fire from twenty eighteens, and eight mortars and howit-
zers. Their execution was great, and I had the pleasui*
to find, tliat though answered at the commencement of

BATTLE OF CORNELIS. 123

each day, by a far more numerous artillery, we daily
silenced their nearest batteries, considerably disturbed
every part of their position, and were evidently superior
in our fire.

" At dawn of day on the 26th, the assault was made,
the principal attack was intrusted to that gallant and ex-
perienced ofiicer. Colonel GiUespie ; he had the infantry
of the advance, and the grenadiers of the line with him,
and was supported by Colonel Gibbs, with the 59th regi-
ment, and th^ 4th battalion of Bengal volunteers. They
were intended to surprise, if possible, the redoubt con-
structed by the enemy beyond the Sloken, to endeavour
to cross the bridge over that stream with the fiigitives,
and then to assault the redoubts within the lines ; Colonel
Gillespie attacking those to the left, and Colonel Gibbs
to the right. lieutenant-Colonel M'Cleod, with six com-
panies of the 59th, was directed to follow a path on the
bank of the great river, and when the attack had com-
menced on the Sloken, to endeavour to possess himself of
the enemy's left redoubt. Major Yule, with the flank
troops of the reserve, reinforced by two troops of cavaby,
four guns of the horse-artillery, two companies of the
59th, and the grenadiers of the reserve, was directed to
attack the troops at Campong Malayu, on the west of the
great river, and endeavour to cross the bridge at that
fort. The remainder of the army, under Major-General
Wetherall, was at the batteries, where a column under
Colonel Wood, consisting of the 78th regiment, and the

124 BATTLE OF CORNELIS.

5th volunteer battalion^ was directed to advance agamst
the enemy in fronts and at a favourable moment, when
aided by the other attacks, to force his way, if practicable,
and open the position for the line.

*' The enemy was imder arms, and prepared for the
combat, and General Jansens, the Commander-in-Chief,
was in the redoubt where it commenced. Colonel Grilles-
pie, after a long action through a close and intricate
country, came on their advance, routed it in an instant,
and, with a rapidity never surpassed and upder a heavy
fire of grape and musketry, possessed himself of the ad-
vanced redoubt. He passed the bridge with the fugitives,
under a tremendous fire, and assaulted and carried with
the bayonet the redoubt, after a most obstinate resistance.
Here the two divisions of this column separated. Colonel
Gibbs turned to the right, and with the 59th, and part of
the 78th, who had now forced their way in front, carried
the redoubt. A tremendous explosion of the magazine of
this work (whether accidental or designed is not ascer-
tained) took place at the instant of its capture, and de-
stroyed a number of gallant officers and men, who at the
moment were crowded on its ramparts, which the enemy
had abandoned. The redoubt, against which lieutenant-
Colonel M'Cleod's attack was directed, was carried in as
gallant a style ; and I lament to state, that most valiant
and experienced officer fell at the moment of victory.
The front of the position was now open, and the troops
rushed in from every quarter.

BATTLE. OF CORNELIS. 125

*^ During the operations on the right. Colonel Gillespie
pursued his advantage to the left, carrying the enemy's
redoubts towards the rear, as well as a park of artillery,
in a most masterly manner, and putting to flight a body
of the enemy's eavahy, that formed and attempted to
defend it. A sharp fire of musketry was now kept up,
by a strong body of the enemy, who had taken post in the
lines, in front of Fort Comelis, but were soon driven from
thence, the fort taken, and the enemy completely dis-
persed. They were pursued by Colonel Gillespie with
the 14th regiment, a party of Sepoys, and the seamen
from the batteries under Captain Sayer, of the Eoyal
Navy ; by this time the cavalry and horse-artillery had
efiected a passage through the lines, the former com-
manded by Major Travers, and the latter by Captain
Noble; and, with the gallant Colonel at their head, the
pursuit was continued till the whole of the enemy's army
was killed, taken, or dispersed.

" Major Yule's attack was equally spirited ; but after
routing the enemy's force at Campong Malayu, and kill-
ing many of them, he found the bridge on fire, and was
unable to penetrate farther.

" I have the honour to enclose a return of the loss sus-
tained, from our landing on the 4th to the 26th inclusive.
Sincerely I lament its extent, and the many valuable and
able officers that have unfortunately fallen; but when the
prepared state of the enemy, their numbers, and the

126 BATTLE OF CORNELIS.

strength of their positions are considered^ I trust it will
not be deemed heavier than might be expected. Theirs
has greatly exceeded it : in the action of the 26th9 the
numbers killed were immense, but it has been impossible
to form any accurate statements of the amount. About
1000 have been buried in the works ; multitudes were cut
down in the retreat ; the rivers are choked up with the
dead, and the huts and woods were filled with wounded,
who have since expired. We have taken near 5000
prisoners, among whom are three general officers, 34 field-
officers, 90 captains, and 150 subaltern officers. General
Jansens made his escape with difficulty during the action,
and reached Buiten^org, a distance of thirty miles, with a
few cavalry, the sole remains of an army of 10,000 men.
This place he has since evacuated, and fled to the east-
ward. A detachment of our troops is in possession
of it.

" The superior discipline and invincible courage which
has so highly distinguished the British army were never
more fully displayed; and I have the heartfelt pileasure to
add, that they have not been clouded by any acts of in-
subordination.

" I have the honour to enclose a copy of the orders I
have directed to be issued, thanking the troops in general
for their services, and particularizing some of the officers,
who from their rank or situations were more fortunate
than their equally gallant companions, in opportunities for

BATTLE OF CORNELIS. 127

distinguishing themselves, and serving their sovereign
and their country.

" But I must not omit noticing to your Lordship the
very particular merit of Colonel Gillespie, to whose assist-
ance in planning the principal attack, and to whose gal-
lantry, energy, and judgment in executing it, the success
is greatly to be attributed. To the general staflF of the
army, as well as my own staff, I feel myself particularly
indebted. The professional knowledge, zeal, and activity
of Colonel Eden, Quarter-Master-General, have been
essentially useful to me ; but I cannot express how much
I have benefited by the able assistance and laborious
exertions of Colonel Agnew, the Adjutant- General, an
officer whose active and meritoriqus services have fre-
quently attracted the notice, and received the thanks of
the Government of India.

'' It is with particular pleasure I assure your Lordship
that I have received the most cordial support from the
Honourable Rear-Admiral Stopford, and Commodore
Broughton, during the period of their commanding the
squadron. The former was pleased to allow a body of
500 seamen, under that valuable officer. Captain Sayer, of
the Leda, to assist at our batteries. Their services were
particularly useful ; and I have the satisfaction to assure
you that both the Artillery and Engineers were actuated
by the same zeal in performing their respective duties
that has been so conspicuous in all ranks and depart-
ments, though, from the deficiency of the means at their

128 INTERCEPTED LETTER FROM GENERAL JANSENS.

disposal^ their operations were unavoidably embarrassed
with uncommon difficulties.

^' I have the honour to he, with the greatest respect,

" Your Lordship's
" Most obedient humble servant,

(Signed) *' S. Achmutt,

" lieutenant-General."

The troops were landed on the 4th of August, 1811 ;
the battle of Comelis was fought on the 26th; Lord
Minto published his Proclamation on the 11th of Sep-
tember ; but the final capitulation of the island was not
signed till the 18th of September, 1811, by General Jan-
sens and Sir Samuel Achmuty, at Samarang, whither
General Jansens had retreated after his defeat at Cor-^
nelis.

The following is a literal copy of a letter from General
Jansens to a Dutch gentleman employed in a public
capacity, which was intercepted, and is a curious specimen
of official correspondence : —

** Samarang, le 2 Septembre, 1811.

*' Avec indignation, j'ai regu votre pr6c6dente lettre et
la demi^re du 30 d'Aoiit de Samarang.

" Si la Tr6sorerie du gouvemement, si celle des veuves
et orphelines sera perdu, alors cela sera uniquement a
attribuer si votre laiche, desobeissant, et infame comporte-
ment.

CAPTURE OF JAVA. 129

" Vous n'avez aucun ami, jamais on ne rencontra per-
sonnel qui ne vous port^t de haine ou ne vous mepris&t,
par experience j'ai su, mais, h61as ! trop tard, qu'on vous
a rendu justice, en vous d^testant.

'^ Votre beau fr^re r6pond avec activity d ses devoirs, il
aura pour cela dans une Suae calme, la recompense, mais
cela sera toujours im creve coeur, d'avoir un indigne frere
comme vous.

'' Que vous ayez peur pour des soldats sans subordi-
nation et pour des brigands, cela je ne prend pas de mal,
mais vous saviez qu'U y avoit un centaine d'officiers en
arri^re de vous, et pour cela vous n'auriez pas dft aban-
donner centre votre serment et devoir, votre poste, mais
Tester dans le voisinage de ces officiers.

^* Mon devoir m'appelloit perir ici, pour rassembler tous
les ressources qid existent encor, vous auriez d(i faire
autant, dans votre situation et les chefs* de Tintdrieur
seroient certainement rest6s fiddles.

" On se comptoit pour le plus grand malheur d'etre
votre subordonn^, il est aussi bien miserable de vous avoir
€u pour subalteme.

" Le Gouverneur- General.

'' Signed, W. Jansens."

" A Monsieur Vickens."
{Intercepted at Chertbon, llth September^ 1811.)

Lord Minto announced the capture of Java to the
authorities in England, in the following terms : —

'' An empire, which for two centuries has contributed

VOL. I. K

130 CONQUEST OF JAVA.

greatly to the power, prosperity, and g^ndeur of one of
the principal and most respected states in Europe, has
been thus wrested firom the short usurpation of the French
government^ added to the dominicm of the British crown,
and converted from a seat of hostile machination and
commercial competition, into an augmentation of British
power and prosperity,**

The government of this empire was bestowed, with a
feeling and confidence honourable to the giver, and no less
gratifying ^o the person on whom such a high and noble
trust was reposed^

Though partly pledged to another. Lord Minto de-
clared he could not conscientiously withhold it from
him who had won it; and, therefore, '' as an acknow-
ledgment of the services he had rendered, and in
consideration of his peculiar fitness for the office,** he
immediately appointed Mr. Baffles to it, under the
title of Ldeutenant-Govemor of Java and its Depen-
dencies.

The charge was of the most extensive, arduous, and
responsible nature, comprising, on the island of Java
alone, a population of six millions, divided into thirty
residencies, under powerM chiefs, who had been long
desirous of throwing off the European yoke, and who
were consequently by no means disposed to submit quietly
to the rule of their new governors.

Before the conquest of Java by the English, the Dutch
had only subdued, unconditionally, one of the four prin-

DEATH OF DR. LEYDEN. 131

cipal kingdoms into which the island was divided. The
small kingdom of Jakotra^ extending from Cheribon to
Bantam^ and in which the city of Batavia^ so long the ad-
miration and dread of the Eastern states^ is situated^
alone acknowledged the sovereignty of the European
power ; so that, in fact, the principal part of the island
was still to conquer.

An event occurred at this time to interrupt the satis-
faction, and humble the heart that might have been too
much elated at the success which had crowned the expe-
dition. Dr. Leyden was seized with a fever a few days
after he reached those shores, on which he hoped to slake
his ardent thirst for knowledge, and expired in the arms of
his friend.

This loss was deeply mourned by Mr. Raffles, who had
anticipated the happiness of having, as an inmate of his
family, one with whom he could take counsel both in
public and private; whose judgment would aid, whose
affection would cheer, and whose society would brighten
the care and troubles of the responsible situation he was
about to undertake.

Lord Minto remained in Java six weeks, and was inces-
slantly occupied in arranging the form of government,
laying down the principles upon which it was to be con-
ducted, forming plans for the suppression of piracy, and
consulting with the fixture Governor of the island on
various points of anticipated difficulty. One of two
courses was to be taken : either to abandon the island to

13!^ LETTER TO MR. M ARSDEN.

the natives after having plundered it> or to retain it in
our own hands.

It is difficult to imagine that the first-mentioned plan
was ever agitated ; but truth requires it to be stated, that
it was seriously contemplated^ and checked only by the
energy and determination of Lord Minto. It has been
already said, that he took upon himself the responsibility
of acting on a more benevolent principle, and determined
to do all in his power to promote the happiness of those
whom the fortune of war had placed under his orders.

Mr. Raffles communicated to Mr. Marsden his appoint-
ment to the government of Java in the following letter : —

FROM MR. RAFFLES TO MR. MARSDEN.

ffeltevreeden, {near Baiavia^) Java,
October 5M, 1811.

" My DEAR Sir,

" The press of public business at the present
moment is so great, that I am sure you will excuse me
from entering at length into any subject. The pubUc
prints will inform you of the great and invaluable con-
quest which we have made, and I shall only add that,
after having been employed for above a year as agent to
the Governor-General in obtaining information, forming
plans, and bringing to a focus the intentions of government
against this place, I have now the satisfaction to be in-
stalled Lieutenant-Governor of the Island of Java and its
dependencies.

LETTER TO MR. MARSDEN. 133

" No man better than yourself can appreciate the value
of this new acquisition to the British empire — ^it is in fact
the other India.

" My time has been so completely taken up in political
operations^ that I have been compelled for many months
to leave my literary labours on the shelf untouched; but
my present situation^ and our new conquest^ afford such a
wide and unparalleled field for research^ that I should be
worse than Goth or Vandal if I allowed it to remain un-
tried even in the literary way.

"Lord Minto is now here, and we have it in contem-
plation to bring forward the Batavian Asiatic Society as
soon as circumstances admit. I do not know whether you
have heard that we held a meeting of the Asiatic Society
at Malacca on our way down. I sent you from thence a
paper of mine intended for the next volume of the Re-
searches.

" If it were possible to get it copied in time I would
send you by the present conveyance a copy of my last
report to Lord Minto on the eastward. I hope I shall be
able to send it by the next ship, as it wiQ put you in ftdl
possession of the enlarged views which have lately opened
to us in the East.

" You wiQ, I am sure, condole with me, as the friend of
literature and virtue, in the loss I have lately sustained in
the death of my dear friend. Doctor Leyden ; — ^he died at
this place on the 27th of August, of a fever. We have
lost in him a host of men. Had you known him, you

134 PRINGIPLBS OF THE DI7T0H GOVBRNMENT.

would never have ceased to deplore his death. — ^Eastern

literature has lost in him its firmest support.

♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦

''I am happy to inform you that I have large and
valuable collections on various points connected with your
&vourite studies ; these I shall, as soon as possible^ put
into some land of form.

" I hope by the first arrival to receive your new edition
of Sumatra. How goes on the Dictionary ?

" Your's faithfully,

" T. S. R."

Lord Minto, during his stay in Java, made sevend
arrangements for the suppression of piracy ; and having,
whilst he was at Malacca during the progress of the
expedition, received ambassadors firom the state of
Banger Masing, courting the alliance of the English,
his Lordship appointed Mr. Hare resident of this place,
with the view of dbecking this destructive system ci
native warfare.

In order to appreciate the diflSculties of the situation
in which Mr. Raffles was placed, the extent of the
changes which it was requisite to introduce, and the
views which he formed of the principles of government,
it will be necessary to advert very briefly to one or two
leading principles of the Dutch rule.

One of the chief sources of the Dutch revenue was
the monopoly by government of the grain and -other

PRINCIPLES OF THE DUTCH GOVERNMENT. 135

produce of the land> which the cultivators were required
to deliver at an inadequate and arbitrary rate^ which
articles were afterwards dealt out to the consumer at
a far higher price^ so that> in fact^ the whole body of the
people depended on the govenunent for their very sub-
sistence. The principle of encouraging industry in the
cultivation and improvement of the country, by creating
an interest in the effort and fruits of that industry, was
wholly unknown.

The mode of collecting this revenue in kind remained
with the Segent of the district, leaving the cultivators no
security beyond the claims of UBage and custcnn; and
although custom prescribed a certain portion only of
the crop to be delivered, there were no positive means
oS preventing a greater levy. Thus, while the power
and influence of authority could be successfiilly exerted
to stifle complaints, the peasant, though suffering the
greatest injustice, despairing of relief would endure
almost any privation and suffering rather than quit the
land of his forefathers, to which he felt himself attached
by the strongest ties of reli^on, of haJbit, and of affection.

Feudal service was another (tf the grievances and op-
pressions under which the natives groaned. No means
existed of affording a direct control on the demandb far
labour. The public officers of the Dutch government
universally employed the services of the people without
regular hire. Their demands were unlimited. The
native chiefs followed the same system. No check

136 PROJECTED CHANGE OF SYSTEM.

existed; and thus the energies of the people were
crushed, and their labour firitted away, becoming pro-
ductive neither to themselves nor to the state. In short>
they were reduced to the lowest state of vassalage and
subjection. To this ruinous system was to be added the
pressure arising from the failure of external commerce.

The Dutch government, forced to look within itself for
reUef, discovered the embarrassmentB to be dafly increas-
ing. Under this exigency, the funds of public societies
were appropriated to the government treasury ; and the
private property of individuals was forcibly borrowed in
the same manner. An arbitrary increase of paper-
currency was issued, to provide for the daily expenses
of the State ; and this being found inadequate, the
government were compelled to deliver a proportion of
colonial produce in payment of these establishments, or,
in other words, to pawn the produce in store, to satisfy
the current demands upon the public treasury. Such
was the financial state of the country at the period when
the English assumed the administration of Java.

It would be endless to notice the difficulties and ob^
stacles which occurred in the establishment of a pure
and upright administration. Not only was the whole
system previously pursued by the Dutch to be sub-
verted, but an entirely new one substituted, as pure and
liberal as the old one was vicious and contracted ; and
this was to be accomplished and carried into effect by the
very persons who had so long fattened on the vices of the

PROJECTED CHANGE OF SYSTEM. 137

former policy. Some few were sufficiently enlightened
to. perceive the advantages of the new system: two of
these, Mr. Cransen and Mr. Muntinghe, on this account,
were regarded by Mr. fiaffles with the highest esteem.
. Those who know how difficult it is to carry on a govern-
ment, even where the choice of agents is great, where each

well knows the duty which he has to perform, and where
the state of society is such, that every man acts as a check

upon his neighbour, wUl be able to appreciate the labour

and > the anxiety which devolved on Mr. Baffles, when
Lord Minto left him to arrange the details of that system
of which they had together formed the outline.

Buoyant in spirit and firm in courage, when once he
had adopted a right principle of action, Mr. Baffles was
keenly ahve to the difficult and arduous task which he had
to perform; responsible for all, at a distance from any
superior authority, without one individual with whose
principles he was acquainted, and of whose abilities he
had any experience ; yet forced to set the wheel of govern-
ment in motion, and to watch its progress with unceasing
attention, whilst all the details of every department were
to be formed by himself; nothing but the faciUty of
arrangement which he possessed could have accom-
plished so much with so Httle assistance, and in so short
a time.

The manner and time of bringing about this change,
however, required the most serious consideration ; and
before he took any decided step in the new organization.

138 ENGLISH RESIDENTS APPOINTED.

he instituted statistical inquiries in every district, and
collected the most detailed information in every depart-
ment ; the result of which convinced him that a thorough
change in system was not only advisable and practicable,
but indispensable, no less for the interests and honour of
the British government, than for the happiness and pros-
perity of the country at large. He examined minutely
every department; drew up himself every detail and in-
struction for the agents which he employed, and with aU
the courage of a pure and ardent mind, oommenoed thai
thorough reform, which with unwearied assiduity he
laboured to establish during the whole period of his
administration.

The result fully equalled the highest eiqpectations and
estimates which had been formed of its success : and so
judiciously was the change introduced, that not a single
individual, high or low, felt aggrieved by it ; the native
population, chiefs, subordinates, and people, with one
ncGord, hailed the new order of things as a boon eon-
ferred upon them by British phiUnthropy, and entered
on the ^oyment of its advantages with confidence and
improving industry.

The first act of Mr. Baffles was to send English Besi^
dents to the native courts, and in the course of a month
most of the expensive establishments of government were
disccmtinued ; the departments of revenue, commerce, and
judicature, were materially reformed, and new arrange-
ments adopted by the 1st of January, 1812. In connec-

EXTRACT FROM CAPTAIN TRAVERS' JOURNAL. 139

tion wifli these important changes a general survey ^
made of the whole island ; and detailed information col-
lected in most of the districts of the lands attached to
each village^ while a body of valuable statistics was com-
piled and arranged^ as well for the immediate use of
government as for ftiture historical reference. The labour
attending the performance of such varied and extensive
duties was naturally very great; Mr. Baffles had^ for^
tunately^ at this time sufficient vigour of body as weU as
of mind to devote himself to them from daylight until
midnight.

The following is an extract from Captain Travers'
Journal : —

" The official documents^ already published^ give a frdl,
clear^ and satisfactory account of the zeal and alnlity
evinced by Mr. Baffles in the administration of Java^
whilst fewj perhaps^ are aware of the application and
attention which he devoted to his public duties. With
a constitution already impaired by dimate, every one
was astonished at the exertion and fatigue he underwent ;
and the Dutch^ who were altogether unaccustomed to
witness such activity of mind and body, were unable to
keep pace with him.

^' The government of such an island as Java, with
its ^dependencies, was a change of no trifling respoBsi-
bility, and not the tess so during the time of wax*; but
Lord Minto judged correctly when he told Mr. Baffles

140 EXTRACT FROM CAPTAIN TRAVBRS' JOURNAL.

that it was not ' so much as an acknowledgment of his
past services^ as in consideration of his peculiar fitness
for the office/ that he appointed him to the charge
of such a government. Mr. Raffles was &lly aware of
the trusty and with all the ardour peculiar to himself com-
menced the task.

" His mild^ conciliating^ and unassuming manners^
obtained for him the respect and confidence of the
Dutch, whilst the natives, who had been led to form the
highest possible opinion of his character, looked with
anxious hope for that ameUoration in their condition
which they afterwards experienced, and which wiU make
his memory adored on the island of Java for ages to
come.

'' Soon after the capture of the island, and when Lord
Minto had gone to Bengal, Mr. Baffles removed from
Ryswick to Buitenzorg, the country residence of the
former Governor, distant forty miles from Batavia, and
here he kept a most hospitable table. He went to
Byswick every week to attend the council, consisting of
General, then Colonel, GiUespie, Commander of the
forces, with Mr. Muntinghe and Mr. Cransen, Dutch
gentlemen, who had held high situations under the
former government. At Byswick he remained a day
or two, according to circumstances, and occasionally saw
company there ; but the climate at Buitenzorg being so
far superior, he was always anxious to return, and seldom
,lost much time on the road, performing the journey in

LETTER TO MR, RAMSAY. 141

four hours. He was most attentive to the members of
the former government^ who were constant guests at his
table."

In a private letter, dated Batavia, in March 1812, to
his friend the late Mr. Ramsay, Secretary to the East
India Company, Mr. Raffles touches upon the internal
arrangements connected with the government of Java.

" In this respect stand foremost the judicial and police
arrangements. Previous to the estabUshment of the
British government in Java, there was no distinction
known between the police and the judicial administration
of justice. At Batavia, however, there existed a Supreme
Court of Judicature and a Bench or Court of Aldermen,
called the College of Schepmen ; and at Sourabaya and
Samarang inferior courts of justice had been established ;
and in each district a court termed the Landrost, con-
sisting of the Landrost, Regent, and Highpriest, exer-
cised both the police and judicial jurisdiction ; the only
distinction which existed was, that all the Company's
servants should be amenable to the regular courts of
justice, or to the Supreme Court at Batavia, while all
other persons of every description were under the juris-
diction of the Schepmen. A difference of persons was
altogether so strongly against our principles of public
justice, and public and individual right, and the principle
on which such distinction might originally have been
founded had so entirely ceased by the aboUtion of all
distinction between the servants of the late Company

142 PROCLAMATION TO THE PEOPLE OP JAVA.

and all other individuals^ that an entire change and sepa-
ration of the police from the judicial authorities became
necessary^ and was directed by the instructions left with
me by the Governor-General.

" The copy of the proclamation published in our first
government gazette will sufficiently explain the principles
on which we proceeded ; and I flatter myself with the ap-
probation^ not only of the Governor-General, but of the
authorities in England, of the measure taken by us of
establishing the trial by jury, which I am happy to say
has given universal satisfaction here ; and although, with
the other new arrangements, giving rise to new difficulties,
is not likely to meet with any serious obstacle. The
courts of justice and police, as new modelled, are now in
Ml exercise ; and I hope this colony may receive all the
advantages of British jurisprudence, without entailing on
it the disadvantages of a judicial establishment from
England, of all things the most to be dreaded for the
general prosperity and happiness of the population.
The British courts of justice fit with difficulty our per-
manent EngUsh establishments in India; but here their
introduction would only lead to anarchy, vexation, and
trouble without end*.

* « PROCLAMATION.

'* For the satisfaction of the inhabitants and people of Java, the fol-
lowing provisions are made public, in testimony of the sincere disposi-
tion of the British Government to promote their prosperity and welfare.
The reAisal of their late government to treat for their interests,
although disabled by the events of war from affording them any

PROCLAMATION TO THE PEOPLE OF JAVA. 143

llie Dutch law is directed by the proclamation of the
Governor- General to be continued; but, in explanation

further protection, has rendered the consequent establishment of the
British authority unconditional. But an English government does
not require the articles of a capitulation to impose those duties which
are prompted by a sense of justice and a beneficent disposition. The
people of Java are exhorted to consider their new connexion with
England as founded in principles of mutual advantage, and to be con-
ducted in a spirit of kindness and affection.

"Providence has brought to [them a protecting and benevolent
government: they will cheerfully perform the reciprocal duties of
allegiance and attachment.

*' 1. His Majesty *s subjects in Java will be entitled to the same
general privileges as are enjoyed by the natural-born subjects of Great
Britain in India, subject to such regulations as now exist, or may
hereafter be provided, respecting residence in any of the Honourable
Company's territories.

" 2. They will have the same privilege and freedom of trade to and
with all countries to the east of the Cape of Good Hope, and also with
His Majesty's European dominions, as are possessed by natural-bom
subjects of Great Britain.

" 3. Dutch gentlemen will be eligible to all offices of trust, and
will enjoy the confidence of Government according to their respective
characters, conduct, and talents, in common with British-born subjects.

*< 4. The vexatious system of monopoly which is understood to have
heretofore prevailed in some instances to an oppressive and inconve-
nient extent, will be revised, and a more beneficial and pohtic principle
of administration will be taken into consideration as soon, and to such
extent, as full information on the subject can be obtained, as esta-
blished usage and habit may admit, and as may be consistent with a
due regard to the health and morals of the people.

" 5. The Dutch laws will remain provisionally in force, under the
modifications which will be hereinafter expressed, until the pleasure
of the supreme authorities in England shall be known ; and it is con-
ceived that no material alteration therein is to be apprehended.

" The modifications to be now adopted are the following :

" First. Neither torture nor mutilation shall make part of any
sentence to be pronounced against criminals.

144 PROCLAMATION TO THE PEOPLE OF JAVA.

of this law^ it is necessary I should state^ that the law of
Java is not so much the national law of Holland as a

'< Secondly. When a British-bom subject is convicted of any
offence, no punishment shall be awarded against him more severe
than would be inflicted by the laws of England for the same crime.
And in case of doubt concerning the penalty by English law, reference
shall be made to the Honourable the Recorder of Prince of Wales'
Island, whose report shall be a sufficient warrant for awarding the
penalty stated by him to be agreeable to the laws of England. No
sentence against any British-born subject for any crime or misde-
meanor shall be carried into execution until a report shall have been
made to the Lieutenant-Governor.

" Thirdly. No sentence of death against any person whatever shall
be carried into execution until a Report shall have been made to the
lieuten ant-Grovemor .

" Fourthly. The Lieutenant-Governor will have the power of re-
mitting, moderating, or confirming all penalties, excepting incon-
siderable fines, short imprisonment, or slight corporal punishment.

'* Fifthly. British-born subjects shall be amenable to the jurisdic-
tion of the Dutch tribunals, and to the Dutch laws, in all cases of
civil complaint, or demands, whether they be plaintiffs or defendants.

*< Sixthly. All British-bom subjects shall be subject to the regu-
lations of police, and to the jurisdiction of the magistrates charged
with the execution thereof, and with the maintenance of the peace,
and with public tranquillity and security.

'* Seventhly. All persons belonging to, or attached to the army,
who are by their condition subject to military law, shall for the present
be tried for any crimes they may commit only by courts martial,
unless sent by the military authorities to civil courts.

" Eighthly. It being necessary in all countries that a power should
exist of forming regulations in the nature of legislative provisions
adapted to change of circumstances, or to meet any emergency that
may arise ; and the great distance of the British authorities in Europe
rendering it expedient that the said power should for the present
reside in some accessible quarter, it is declared that the Lieutenant-
Governor shall have full power and authority to pass such legislative
regulations as on deliberation, and after due consultation and advice,
may appear to him indispensably necessary, and that they shall have

LAWS. OF JAVA. 145

colonial law. The foundation of this law is certainly that
of the twelve tables. The civil law, or Roman code, and
some of the general laws of the States-General, are made
to apply; but the ordinary statutes, and those which
apply in most instances, are either the statutes passed in
Holland, or by the Supreme Government from time to
time: these form a body of regulations and laws pecu-
liarly adapted to the place ; and if divested, as they are
now directed to be, of cruelty and torture, and modified
in some instances wherein the punishment of death may
be considered to exceed the offence, perhaps the best that
could be devised for this place. Whatever, therefore,
may be necessary to be done in this respect, should be
well considered and matured. The principle of the
British law is acted up to in most cases, and it is only in
local and provincial occurrences that this principle can be

the full force of law. But the same shall he immediately reported to
the Governor-General in Council in Bengal, together with the Lieu-
tenant-Governor's reasons for passing the said regulation, and any
representations that may have heen suhmitted to him against the
same ; and the regulations so passed will he confirmed or disallowed
hy the (xovernor- General in Council, with the shortest possible delay.
The mode in which the Lieutenant-Grovemor shall be assisted with
advice, will hereafter be made known ; and such regulations will here-
after be framed as may be thought more conducive to the prompt,
pure, and impartial administration of justice, civil and criminal.

** Regulations respecting the paper-currency, as well as the relative
value of coins circulating in Java, will be pubUshed in a separate
paper of this date.

"Done at Molenvliet the 11th September, 1811.

"By His Excellency the Governor-General of British India.
(Signed) " Minto."

VOL. I. L

^ I

146 LAWS OF JAVA.

interfered with. In many instances the Dutch law^ as it
is termed, might be more properly called the common
law, and at all events it is from its antiquity and long
authority considered through the eastward as the law of
the land.

" In the collection of the revenue, the obnoxious system
of farming has been abandoned as much as possible, and
regulai* custom-houses have been established at Batavia,
Samarang, and Sourabaya.

^' A system of duties has been established, founded, in
some measure, on the extent of the duties heretofore col-
lected, and with reference to the support of the dependent
situations of Penang, Malacca, Bencoolen, and the Moluc-
cas, which sooner or later must fall under the immediate
government of this place, if Java continues a British set-
tlement. The great quantity of prize property, and par-
ticularly of coffee, which still remains on this island,
renders any change in the present system of coffee cul-
ture, as recommended by Lord Minto, impracticable ; but
I have great hopes that the accomplishment of the grand
plan of amelioration in this and other respects, respecting
the agriculture and cultivation of this island, is not far
distant. I have an intelligent committee, of which
Colonel Colin Mackenzie has done me the honour to be
President, now sitting on the eastern part of the island,
and from the result of their labours I trust to be possessed
of such additional lights as may lead eventually to a com-
plete change of the present system of landed property, with-

FEUDAL TENURE QF LAND. 147

out which little can be expected- With the exception of
the estates in the neighbourhood of Batavia, and of a few
lately dold at Sourabaya, the whole landed property in
Java is held on an acknowledged feudal tenure. The
Soosoohonan and Sultan are the lords paramount in their
districts ; and although the Company are literally so in
the districts properly termed the Company's provinces,
the power is transferred universally to the Begents^ who
on condition of furnishing a certain quota or contingent
of produce^ and in some cases of money, and rendering
with their people certain feudal service when required,
are possessed of absolute authority within their respective
districts, keeping the conmion people throughout in the
most abject state of vassalage. A material change was
however effected with regard to the Regents by Marshal
Daendels. Previous to his organization of the eastern
districts, the Begents had been supposed to hold their
authority of right, and their agreement with government
was considered as a contract ; but the Marshal, by a very
laudable stroke of policy, rendered them immediately
dependent on the European government, by giving them
commissions and instructions aif officers of government.
This system has been followed up by the British govern-
ment, and each Begent has received his commission, and
taken an oath of allegiance to his Britannic Majesty, and
of obedience to the government of Java.

'' By the next opportunity I shall have the satisfaction
of forwarding to the authorities in England several re-

148 NATURAL HISTORY OF JAVA.

ports^ from Dr. Horsfield and other scientific gentlemen^
on the natural history of this island, and as the Batavian
Literary Society have solicited that I should take that
institution under the protection of government, I trust
that by uniting our efforts with those of the Asiatic
Society in Bengal, very considerable hght may be shortly
thrown on science and general knowledge. The numer-
ous remains of Brahminical structures, in every part of
the island, prove, beyond a doubt, that a colony of Hindus
isettled on this island about the first century of the Chris-
tian era; and the materials of which they are constructed,
induce the belief that this colony must have emigrated
:&om the Coromandel Coast.

*' The beauty and purity of these structures are entirely
divested of that redundancy of awkward and uncouth
ornaments and symbols which are found in India. The
interests of science and literature are by no means neg-
lected on this island, and a valuable and highly interest-
ing stock of information may be contemplated. A very
extensive collection has been made by Dr. Horsfield, on
account of government, of the objects in the animal, vege-
table, and mineral kingdoms, which are peculiar to this
place; and the museum at the India-house will not be
forgotten, as soon as occupations of a more pressing
nature afford adequate leisure for an arrangement of our
collections.

Mr. Rafiles wrote at this time on the same subject to
Mr. Marsden.

LETTER TO MR. MARSDEN. 149

FROM MR. RAFFLES TO MR. MARSDEN.

Buitenzorg, Java, 22d October, 1812.

" In one of your communications you desire to receive
information respecting the Bohun Upas, which appears to
have, of late, been brought particularly to notice. I have
now the pleasure to transmit to you a fiiU and satisfactory
report on the subject by Dr. Horsfield, a gentleman
whose attention has long been devoted to botanical dis-
coveries in the natural history of this island.

^' Interested as you are in every thing which concern^
the fiirther East, it will be satisfactory to you to know,
that by the present opportunity I have forwarded to the
Court of Directors specimens of many of the plants of
Java, as well as of many new animals. I have also for-
warded to them a short account of the medical plants of
Java, as well as a general mineralogical account of the
island by Dr. Horsfield.

" I find it difficult to procure copies of these papers for
you, in consequence of the distress for coppng-clerks ;
but I hope you will be able to obtain the perusal of them.

" The Batavian Society of Arts and Sciences is reviv-
ing, and I hope in another year the world will be pre-
sented with an additional volume of its transactions.

*' I am collecting for you a variety of inscriptions found
in different parts of Java, and in Madura and Bali ; and,
if possible, some of them shall be sent by the present
conveyance. Drawings of all the ruined temples and

150 ACCOUNT OF THE UPAS.

images are in hand^ and it will not be long before I shall
have it in my power to communicate to you fuHj, after
surveying the whole. Vocabularies in the Javanese^
Madurese^ Bali, and Bugis languages are already com-
pleted, and others in hand.

'* Until I may be able to write to you more at length,
the enclosed is a report of the small district of Pagitan,
and affords a view of the habits and institutions of some
of the Javanese."

A short extract from Dr. Horsfield's account of the
Upas may be interesting : —

^ The tree which produces the Upas poison grows in
the eastern extremity of Java; it belongs to the 2l8t
class of linnseus, the Manacia. The male and female
flowers are produced in catkins (cementa) on the same
branch, at no great distance from each other : the female
flowers are in genend above the male. The characters of
the genus are : male flower, calix consisting of several
scales, which are imbricate; carol, none; stamens, fila-
ments many, very short, covered by the scales of the recep-
tacle anthers. The receptacle on which the filamena are
placed has a conical form, abrupt, somewhat rounded
above. Female flower, catkins ovate, caHx consisting of
a numb^ of imbricate scales, (generally more than in the
male,) containing one flower; corolla^ none; pisiU^ germ
single, ovate^ erect; dyles, two» long, slender, spreading;
stigmas, simple, acute; seed-vessel an oblong drupe»
covered with the calix ; seed an ovate nut, covered with

ACCOUNT OF THE UPAS. 151

one cell. This tree is one of the largest in the forests of

Java; the stem is cylindrical, perpendicular, and rises,

completely naked, to the height of sixty, seventy, or

eighty feet. Near the surface of the ground it spreads

obliquely, dividing into numerous broad appendages, or

wings ; it is covered with a whitish bark : near the ground

this bark is, in old trees, more than an inch thick, and

upon being wounded, yields plentiftdly the milky juice

from which the celebrated poison is prepared. The sap

is contained in the tree-bark (or cortex). The inner

bark (or liber) of young trees is employed by the poorer

class of people in making a coarse stuff, which they wear

when working in the fields; but persons wearing this

dress, on being exposed to the rain, are affected with an

intolerable itching, which renders their flimsy covering

almost insupportable. The deleterious quality of the

poison exists in the gum ; the preparation of a poison

from which is an exclusive art of the inhabitants of the

eastern extremity of the island.

" In clearing new grounds near the tree, the inhabit-
ants do not like to approach it, as they dread the cutane-
ous eruption which it is known to produce when newly
cut down. But, except when the tree is largely wounded,
or when it is felled, by which a large portion of the juiee
is disengaged, the effluvia of which mixing with the
atmosphere, affects the p^sons exposed to it with the
symptoms just mentioned, the tree may be approached
and ascended like the other common trees in the forests..

152 MODE OF I^REPARINO THK UPAS POISON.

Like all other trees in its neighbourhood, it is surrounded
by shrubs and plants.

" One of the Begents had caps, or bonnets, prepared
from the inner bark, which were stiffened in the usual
manner with rice-water, and handsomely painted, for the
purpose of decorating his attendants ; but they all refused
to wear theny asserting that they would cause their hair
to fall off.

" The following is a description of the mode of prepar-
ing this poison. About eight ounces of the juice from
the tree, which had been collected diuring the preceding
^evening, and preserved in a joint of a bamboo, was care-
fully strained in a bowl. The sap of the following sub-
stances, which had been finely grated and bruised, was
careftdly expressed and poured into it ; viz. — arum, am-
monium, common onion, and garlic, each about half a
drachm; the same quantity of finely-powdered black
pepper is then added, and the mixture stirred. A single
seed of the capsicum fructicosum was then placed on the
fluid, in the middle of the bowl ; the seed began to reel
round rapidly, now forming a regular circle, then darting
towards the margin of the cup, with a perceptible commo-
tion on the surface of the liquor, which continued one
minute. Being completely at rest, the same quantity of
pepper was again added, and another seed of the cap-
sicum laid on as before : a similar commotion took place
in the fluid, but in a less degree, and the seed was carried
< round with diminished rapidity. The addition of the

ACTION OF THE UPAS POISON. 153

'same quantity of pepper was repeated a third time, when
a seed of the capsicum being carefiilly placed in the centre
of the fluid, remained quiet, forming a regular circle in
the fluid resembling the halo of the moon. This is the
sign that the preparation of the poison is complete."

The common train of symptoms, is a trembling of the
extremities, restlessness, erection of the hair, afiection of
the bowels, drooping and faintness, slight spasms and
convulsions, hasty breathing, an increased flow of saliva,
spasmodic contractions of the pectoral and 'abdominal
muscles, retching, vomiting, great agony, laborious breath-
ing, violent and repeated convulsions, death.

The action of the Upas poison is directed chiefly to the
vascular system. The volume of the blood is accumu-
lated in a preternatural degree in the large vessels of the
thorax.

The circulation appears to be extracted from the extre-
mities and thrown upon the viscera near its source. The
lungs in particular are stimulated to excessive exertions.
The vital viscera are oppressed by an intolerable load,
which produces the symptoms above described, while in
the extremities a proportionate sdegree of torpor takes
place, accompanied by tremors, shiverings, and convulsions.

The natives of Macassar, Borneo, and the Eastern
Islands, when they employ this poison, make use of an
arrow of bamboo, (to the end of which they atta<;h a shark's
tooth) which they throw from a blow-pipe or sompit.

The Upas appears to aflect different quadrupeds with

154 JOURNEY TO THK KASTURN DISTRICTS.

nearly equal force, proportionate in some degree to thyeir
size and disposition.

As soon as Mr. Baffles could command sufficient leisure
he visited the Eastern districts^ and gave the following
short account of his journey to Lord Minto : —

*' I shall only say I was most highly gratified and satis-
fied with every thing I saw ; it is impossible to conceive
any thing more rich than the country, both in cultivation
and scenery. I was happy to perceive that between
Samarang and Sourabaya, neither the country nor the
establishments had suffered firom the effects of the expe-
dition, and that every thing was going on as if nothing
had happened. I left Batavia on the 28th November,
1811, and landed at Samarang, after a tedious passage,
on the 4th December ; firom thence I visited Sourabaya
and Madura on my return, and reached Buitenzorg on
the 1st of January. To give an idea of the high state of
the roads, and of the facility of communication in every
part of the island, it may be sufficient that I inform you,
that firom Sourabaya to Samarang, 200 miles, I was only
twenty-four hours on the road, and firom thence to Bui-
tenzorg only two days and a half, and this without any
fatigue."

CHAPTER V.

Expedition to Palembang — Arrival of the Troops— Gallantry of
the attack— Horrors of the scene— -Colonel Gillespie* s account of
the Sultan— Measures adopted by Colonel Gillespie^- Sultan of
Ljocjocarta — Mr, Raffles collects troops^ and proceeds to Sama-
rang — Account of treaties with the Sultan— General confederacy
of the native states — Unexpected and fortunate return of Colonel
Gillespie — Assault and capture of Ljocjocarta— European power
first paramount in Java.

The apparent tranquillity which followed the success of
the British arms (1812) was but of short duration. The
state of some of the native powers on Java^ particularly
that of Djocjocarta^ and the proceedings of the Sultan of
Palembang, a dependency situated in the island of Su-
matra, soon called for prompt and decisive measures, as
win be seen by the following extract of a letter from Mr.
Baffles to the Governor-General, dated the 7th March,
1812:—

" I have the honour of reporting to your Lordship, that
on the 2d November last, finding that the season of the
year afforded the probability of communicating with
Palembang, I despatched a commission to that place,
consisting of Captain PhilUps, Mr. Wardenar*, and Mr.

^ Late Member of the Sopreme Council of Batavia.

156 EXPEDITION TO PALEMBANG.

Hare*, for the purpose of taking charge of the Dutch
factory there, in pursuance of the capitulation, and of
delivering the same over to Lieutenant Jackson, whom I
had appointed provisionally to act as Resident.

" From a perusal of the documents now transmitted,
your Lordship will observe, that the importance of the
island of Banca and of the tin-trade occupied, at an early
period after your departure, my most serious attention.
Desirous of avoiding any unnecessary breach with any of
the Eastern chiefs, I endeavoured to attain the object
which government had in view by an amicable arrange-
ment, on terms far more advantageous and liberal to the
Sultan of Palembang than he had enjoyed under the
Dutch government. The residency of Palembang, as a
former dependency of Java, having by right of conquest,
and by the express articles of the capitulation, fallen
under the British dominion, the object of the commission
was to have this right acknowledged by the Sultan, and
the privileges stipulated by the former contracts trans-
ferred to the British government. This being effected,
it was intended to grant more liberal terms than ever
were enjoyed by the Sultan, previous to the conquest of
Java.

" The commission, however, instead of meeting with
such a reception at Palembang, as from the nature of
their appointment they were entitled to expect, found the
Sultan not only averse to acknowledging any of the

* Appointed by Lord Minto Resident of Sambas in Borneo.

EXPEDITION TO PALEMBANO. 157

claims on which this negociation was founded on the part
of the British government^ but in such a disposition as
rendered all attempts to enter into a new contract with
him fruitless and abortive. He not only treated with a
kind of ridicule and neglect the claims of the British
government to the contracts which subsisted with the
former government before the conquest of Java, but
rejected with disdain the new terms which were offered to
him. The Sultan altogether disregarded the representa-
tions on the part of the British government, until he
received authentic accounts of the fall of Batavia; and
then, instead of listening to the demands of my agents,
Toonkoo Badin Mahomet and Syed Abu Bakir, that he
should consider the Dutch property and inhabitants as
under the protection of the English, who had conquered
Java and all its dependencies, he declared in a haughty
manner his intention of maintaining his entire inde-
pendence of any power on earth. Struck, however, by
the sudden, and to him certainly unexpected news, of the
complete conquest of Java by the English, the Sultan
became anxious for his future fate, and by threats and
force compelled my agents to sign and seal false reports,
forged by the Sultan and addressed to me, in which it
was stated that the Dutch garrison had, agreeably to
their request, been sent to Batavia, and the fort razed to
the ground, long previous to the attack upon the island
of Java by the British troops ; and to cover the falsehood
of this report (on the faith of which he had laid the

158 BXPEDITION TO PALBMBANO.

foundation of his future independence), he formed the
diabolical plan of destroying every witness who might
hereafter appear against him, sending the Dutch inha-
bitants in small prows down the river, where they were
murdered by order of the Sultan, ai^d ordering my
agents to appear before him, that they might share the
same fate.

'' Considering all these facts, the evident hostile manner
in which the Sultan behaved to the acknowledged native
agents from the British government ; the treacherous and
barbarous manner in which he destroyed the property
and murdered the presumptive subjects of this govern-
ment; the arrogant and offensive manner in which he
rejected the most liberal proposition for an amicable
arrangement, which this government, ignorant df the
events which had taken place, made to him by means of
the commission, and the consequent certainty therefrom
that all further attempts for an amicable arrangement
would be as vain in effect as they would be unbecoming in
principle to the character of the British nation, it has been
left for me to resolve upon some immediate and decisive
measure, consistent with the dignity and interests of
government.

'^ A commanding fon;e under Colonel GiUespie will
embark in two days, and I trust, in less than a month,
that I may be in possession of satisfactory accounts of the
result. I am aware that I have taken much responsibility
pn myself in the adoption of hostile measures against

EXPEDITION TO PALEM^ANG. 159

Palembang, without previous reference to Bengal; but
so many favourable circumstances concurred to induce the
measure^ and so many obstacles in the way of its final
success appeared to present themselves in the event of
delay^ that I should not have felt myself justified to have
lost the opportunity of so much larger a force than could
ever have been subsequently left at our command. In
fact^ the expedition must either have taken place now or
been delayed another year« and this consideration of itself
was enough to outweigh every objection ; the passage to
Palembang from Batavia may at the present season of the
year be effected in five or six days^ and the returning
voyage may be accomplished during the same period. I
have provisionally appointed a Resident for Banca, and I
trust my next letter will communicate favourable intelli-
gence on this point. There is one thing I have never
noticed regarding Banca^ and that is^ the harbour of
Klabbat^ stated to be the most secure in India, and
capable of every defence — the entrance to the harbour
being between two rocks or promontories, not half-pistot
shot from each other, and a bason within> with fine bottom
and deep water> capable of containing, it is said, the navy
of England. It is directly in the route for our trade
through the China seas, and the situation of M inta, on
which it is projected, to form the first settlement in
Baixca, is perhaps the most commanding that could be
chosen for the Eastern seas. If possible, I will forward
more particulars, but the total want of clerks who can

160 EXPEDITION TO PALEMBANG.

copy English legibly, forms at present a serious obstacle
to the transmission of all papers/'

An expedition was accordingly fitted out under the
command of Colonel Gillespie, who was entrusted with
the execution of the views of government, and who had
the whole management confided to his individual judg-
ment and direction. The fleet consisted of his Majes-
ty's ship CorneUa, Captain Owen; Bucephalus, Captain
Drury ; sloop Procris, Captain Freeman ; the Honour-
able Company's cruizer, Teignmouth, Captain Howitson ;
Mercury, Captain Conyers. Gun-boats : schooner Wel-
Ungton, Captain Cromy ; Young Barracouta, Captain
Lynch. Transports : Samdany, Minerva, Matilda, and
Mary Ann.

Captain Bowen, of his Majesty's ship Phoenix, meeting
it at sea, took the command of the fleet as senior ofiicer.

TROOPS EMBARKED.

Detachment of his Majesty's 59th regiment, three com-
panies, rifle and flank companies.

Ditto 89th regiment, five companies.

Ditto, Madras horse-artillery and hussars dismounted.

Detachment of Bengal artillery; detail and detach-
ment of sepoys, 5th and 6th battalions.

Ditto, Amboynese.

A considerable number of guns and military stores,
intended for the new settlement of Banca, were put on
board the transports.

PASSAGE OF THE EXPEDITION. 161

Contrary winds and currents, which during the western
monsoon are violent and unchangeable, still maintained
their influence at this advanced season, and considerably
retarded the progress of the expedition, which reached
Nanka Island on the 3rd of April, 1812, where it con-
tinued a week at anchor. Tents were pitched on shore,
and aU the artificers were employed in the completion of
the boats intended for the passage up the Palembang
river, by constructing platforms for the field-pieces, and
making coverings to shelter the troops as much as pos-
sible from the burning violence of the solar heat, and the
inclemency of the nocturnal air.

The fleet was supplied with water of a very good
quality at this island, which is covered with wood, and
inhabited by bears, monkeys, and wild- hogs. Fish was in
great abundance, and pirates frequently visit the place to
take in water and fuel.

The armament got under weigh on the 10th of April,
and came to an anchor on the 15th at noon, opposite the
west channel of Palembang river.

The unavoidable delay which the expedition expe-
rienced, by encountering contrary winds and currents in
the straits, afforded ample time to the guilty Sultan to
prepare either for resistance or flight. With a view to
the latter course, he had removed his treasure and women,
at a very early period, into the interior ; whilst himself
and his ministers sent message after message to the
British Commander, filled with expressions of respect,

VOL. I. M

162 PASSAGE OF THE EXPEDITION.

and framed with apparent candour, but hypocritical in
their language^ and treacherous in their object.

The continuance of the ebb tide during the whole of
the 19th of April obliged the fleet to remain stationary
till about four in the afternoon^ when a gentle sea breeze
favouring its progress^ enabled the flotilla to move,
though it was only for a short distance, as the wind soon
failed, and the flood tide being very slack, some of the
vessels got entangled among the branches of the trees
and bushes, which therefore it was necessary to cut away.
At the turn of the tide, which was about sis on the fol-
lowing morning, the flotilla came to an anchor.

In the early part of the day Pangarang Sheriff arrived
from the Sultan of Palembang, begging to know the
intention of the British Commander in thus advancing
withi such a force; to which Colonel Gillespie returned
for answer, that he must acquaint the Sultan in person
with the propositions he was entrusted with on the part of
his government, and the messenger returned immediately.

At five in the evening the fleet proceeded on its pas-
sage ; but the tide becoming slacker every day in propor-
tion to its distance from the sea^ and the wind being
adverse, it did not gain above six miles all night ; the ebb
tide occurring at six the next morning, the 21st of April,
it anchored near the junction of False Biver.

Another messenger, Pangarang Pranah, arrived in the
morning from Palembang, bringing with him a letter from
the Sultan, to whom he was related. In this epistle the

ARRIVAL OF THE TKOOPS; 163

crafty monarch congratulated the Coinmander on his
arrival in the river Soosang^ professing at the saone time,
to be the friend of the English, the design of which was
too obvious to impose upon those who were acquainted
with the writer's character. Colonel Gilleispie replied
that he meant to be at Palembang in two days, where he
expected to see the Sultan^ having matters to disclose to
him in person of the greatest consequence ; and at the
same time assuring the inhabitants of Palembang of the
protection of the British Government. Before the am-
bassador could receive this reply in writing, another mes-
senger arrived vrith a similar letter from the Sultan,
requesting an immediate explanation. Both the Sultan's
agents^ therefore, returned together, about five in the
evening ; and as soon as the tide permitted, at seven, the
flotilla got under way. At sun-rise, on the 22d April,
the batteries at Borang were descried.

In the course of the forenoon Captain Owen, of the
royal navy, with Major Thom> Deputy Quarter-Master-
General^ reconnoitred the batteries and armed prows
stationed there, which had been joined by a large Arab
ship^ armed for the occasion^ and sent down from Palem-
bang by the Sultan to add to the defence of this post.
These vessels, wiih the floating batteries, were moored
across the river in echellon, raking with their guns the
whole length of the passage^ whilst the numerous artillery
on the three fixed batteries bore across on the channel by
which the advance was to be made, thus enabling the

1(>4 ARRIVAL OF THE TROOPS.

enemy to bring the fire of their guns almost to a ray on
any point in the line of advance. Numerous fire-rafts
were placed on the firont and flank of the batteries, ready
to be set adrift to fire the shipping. Piles of wood driven
into the river defended the approach to the batteries, in
boats, whilst a strong palisade protected the rear and
flanks. A great deal of bustle and activity was observ-
able within the several defences, which appeared to be
fully manned and prepared for resistance.

The violent rain, which lasted all the afternoon, and
continued during the night, proved of considerable annoy-
ance, particularly to the men who were embarked in boats.
Great indeed, and scarcely to be conceived, was the
fatigue the sailors and soldiers had to undergo in a region
where, during the day they were exposed, while employed
in laborious rowing, to the rays of a burning sun, directly
under the equator, and deprived in the night of the re-
freshment of sleep.

But notwithstanding the excessive hardships which all
ranks and descriptions of persons in the service were
called to bear, and the privations they had to endure,
nothing could shake their resolution or abate their ardour
in the performance of their duty.

In the evening another messenger, named Pangarang
Martoo, arrived with a letter from the Sultan, importing
that he should be happy to see his friend, the Commander
of the expedition, at Palembang; but requesting that he
would dispense with so large an armed force, and visit the

ATTEMPT AT DELAY. 165

tapital unattended, being fearful, as he pretended, that
the appearance of so many troops would occasion serious
disturbances among the inhabitants of Palembang.

It was easy enough to perceive the insidious drift of
this proposition; but the treachery of the Sultan had
already been too notorious to allow such fallacious decla-
rations and hollow professions the slightest respect, or
even a moment's attention.

Colonel Gillespie demanded of the messenger who last
arrived, an unmolested passage up' the river, and also a
hostage as a security for their good behaviour ; to which
Pangarang Martoo instantly assented, ofiFering at the
same time to give possession of the batteries, and to leave
them entirely at the disposal of the Colonel; the ship
that was lying there was also to be made use of as the
British Commander might please to direct. As a pledge
of their sincerity, a person bearing the title of Com-
mandant of the batteries, and who accompanied the mes-
senger, remained behind for the purpose of conducting
the troops to Borang.

The proper arrangements being made to secure these
objects, on the following night Captain Meares, Malay
interpreter to the Commander of the forces, was directed
to proceed to Borang, accompanied by the officer who had
been left as a hostage, and to demand a decisive answer
whether or not they would let the batteries be taken pos-
session of amicably, or whether they would resist the
passage of the flotilla. No time was allowed for equivo-

166 TAKE POSSESSION OF THE BATTERIES.

cation on the part of the Chief Pangarang, and Colonel
Gillespie followed close after, at the head of the small,
but formidable array of the British advance, composed of
detachments of the 59th and 89th regiments, in light
boats, supported by the gun-launches and field-artillery
in the flat-boats. On their arrival at the dawn of day
within half-gun-shot distance of the batteries, the Panga-
rang came off with Captain Meares, and offered to deliver
tip the works with all the other defences, whicb, in conse-
quence, were immediately occupied by the British troops.
The garrison, terrified at their sudden approach, and un-
mindfiil of the positive orders of the Sultan to defend the
passage to the last, took themselves to flight, and escaped
in some prows that had been kept concealed round the
eastern part of Borang Island, and on the western side c^
Binting Isle. All the guns taken, to the number of one
hundred and two, were readily dbarged and primed.
The large ship afforded quarters for a great portion of
the soldiers, but the remainder were placed in huts and
floating batteries which had coverings.

In the evening the troops were all re-embarked, and
proceeded on to a little distance. Fires now appeared in
all directions, and several of the rafts were set in flames
by the enemy, with the view of effecting, if possdble, the
destruction of the shipping, which had not as yet passed
the batteries; but though they were coming up at this
time (8 p.m.) fortunately the exertions of Captain Owen
with the crews of the light boats were successful in cutting

C01«FUSI0N OF THE ENEMY. 167

the rafts asunder before they were thoroughly in flames,
by which means a general conflagration was seasonably
prevented. Several shots were fired from one of the Cor*
nelia's boats at the Malays^ who were seen setting fire to
the rafts, which had the effect of instantly dispersing them.

Early on the following morning, the 25th of April, an
Arab arrived who stated himself to be the own^ of the
ship before mentioned, and begging that she might be
restored, which request was granted. He brought infor-
mation that the Sultan immediately fled firom Palembang
on learning that the defences at Borang, which had been
considered such a formidable barrier, no longer obstructed
the further progress of the British troops.

Colonel Gillespie, on hearing this, determined to push
forward with the Ught boats; and whilst making this
arrangement another Arab arrived, the Pangarang Sheriff,
who confirmed the account of the Sultan's flight ; adding
the afflicting intelligence, that the greatest cx>nfusion,
plunder, and assassination prevailed, not only within the
interior of the fort and palace, but in many parts of the
city. Upon this Colonel GiUespie resolved to lose not a
moment, but to hasten by the quickest possible manner
to put a stop to this scene of horror, and by his immediate
presence prevent the execution of the massacre, which it
was reported the Sultan's adherents meditated to perpe-
trate the very next night upon the wealthy Chinese and
other inhabitants, whose property was to become the prize
of the assassins.

168 GALLANTRY OF THE ATTACK.

The Colonel, therefore, proceeded instantly with the
Arab chief in his canoe, accompanied by Captain Meares
and Mr. Villneruhy, a Spanish gentleman, who acted as
Malay interpreters. In that and another small canoe
which accompanied them, were distributed seven grena-
diers of the 59th regiment ; and these were followed by
Captain Bowen, of the Royal Navy; Major Butler,
Deputy Adjutant-General; and Major Thorn, Deputy
Quarter-Master-General, in the gig belonging to the
Phoenix, and ten more grenadiers of the same regiment,
in the barge of the same ship, with Lieutenant Monday,
R.N., and Lieutenant Forrest, of the 59th ; the remain-
ing troops, under Lieutenant-Colonel M'Leod, having
orders to follow with all possible speed. The distance
was twenty miles, so that it was dark when the party
arrived at Old Palembang. The canoes, in one of which
the Colonel was, had gained much on the other two boats,
and were now completely out of sight, when a report of a
signal-gun, fired by the enemy, not a little alarmed them,
and increased the anxiety for the rest of the party ; the
more so, as every thing round tended to excite suspicion
of some treacherous design being in agitation. A dread-
ful yell and shrieking in all directions was next heard, and
lights and conflagrations were seen throughout the whole
extent of this large tract of population, which stretched
along both banks of the river for upwards of seven miles.
By the redoubled exertions of the crews, the boats in the
rear were soon brought up to the support of the little

HORRORS OF THE SCENE. 169

band, and thus happUy fomed in time an important
junctiGii.

To paint the horrors of the scene that presented itself
in their true colours^ or to attempt an expression of the
sensations it was calculated to excite^ would be a difficult
task ; and the undaunted act which gained the possession
of the fort, the palace, and its batteries, may be credited
when the name of the leader is recollected. Undi3mayed
in the face of numerous bodies of armed men. Colonel
Gillespie boldly stepped on shore, at eight o'clock at
night, and with those who had accompanied him in the
canoe, and the seven grenadiers, he marched, with a firm
step, through a multitude of Arabs and treacherous
Malays, whose missile weapons, steeped in poison, glim-
mered by the light of torches.

Huge battlements, with immense gates, leading from
one area to another, presented the frightful spectacle
of human blood still reeking and flowing on the pave-
ment. The massive gates closed upon the rear, and
the blood-stained court-yards through which the party
were conducted appeared as if they were the passage to
a slaughter-house.

A Malay, who had pressed through the crowd, ap-
proached the Colonel, and was walking by his side,
when a large double-edged knife was secretly put4nto
his hands by one of his countrymen. It was a dark stormy
night, and a ray of lightning, at the very instant when
the man was pushing the knife up his long loose sleeve

170 HORRORS OF TBE SCENE.^

to conceal it> discovered the weapon. The ColoneVs eye
caught the object^ and instantly turning round> he had
the fellow seized^ totally regardless of the crowd; thus
fortunately frustrating, by his firmness, the murderous
design. The weapon was found as described; but the
man contrived to steal away in the crowd, and escaped.

The palace exhibited a melancholy picture of devas-
tation and cruelty. Murder had been succeeded by
rapine ; and while the place was completely ransacked,
the pavements and floors were clotted with blood. In
every direction spectacles of woe caught the sight, and
were rendered peculiarly awfol by the glare of the sur-
rounding conflagration, accompanied by vivid flashes
of lightning, and loud peals of thunder.

The flames, which continued to spread destruction,
notwithstanding the rain that poured down in torrents,
had reached the outer buildings of the palace, and threat-
ened the part where the Colonel, with his party, had
taken up their temporary abode. The crackling of
bamboos, resembling the discharge of musquetry; the
tumbUng in of burning roofs with a tremendous crash;
the near approach of the fire, in the midst of an immense
hostile multitude and assassins ; altogether g^ve to their
situation a most appalUng prospect.

The little band, consisting only of seventeen British
grenadiers, with the officers naval and military already
mentioned, and a few seamen belonging to the gig and
barge, had to secure possession of the fort, and to provide

CAPTURE OF PALEMBANG. 171

for their safety, in the determined resolution of selling
their lives dearly, should any attack be made before the
arrival of reinforcements. Having carefully reconnoitred
by the light of torches the interior of the palace court,
and ordered all the entrances except one to be shut and
barricadoed. Colonel Gillespie stationed the grenadiers at
the principal entrance, and the strictest guard was kept
up. Soon after midnight they had the satisfaction of
hailing the welcome arrival of Major Trench, with about
sixty men of the 89th regiment ; and the remaining
part of the ordered advance, under Lieutenant-Colonel
M'Leod, joined the little garrison early the next morning.

Thus an act of daring enterprise, conceived with judg-
ment and executed with intrepidity, gained possession of
the fort and batteries defended by two hundred and forty-
two pieces of cannon, without the loss of a man. This
formidable position could not have been carried under any
other circumstances of attack, but by the sacrifice of many
lives, and by hazarding altogether the safety of the little
armament.

The rapidity of the movement, and the sudden and
unexpected arrival of the few British at that late hour in
the evening, whose numbers were greatly magnified by
the panic which seized the foe, caused the immediate dis-
persion of the Sultan's adherents, who fled in confusion,
and thus relieved the town from the miseries with which it
was tl^reaten^d, of plunder and destruction. An American,
who was: the supercargo of a large Chinese junk then lying

172 ACCOUNT OF THE DEPOSED SULTAN.

at Palembang> gave a melancholy description of the fate
with which they were threatened^ and which would have
burst on them that very nighty had the English not
arrived in time to prevent it. This junk^ with all on
boards had in fact been marked out as the first victims.

The measures taken to restore order and maintain tran-
quillity were so efiectual, that the inhabitants assumed
confidence^ and many who had fled into the woods re-
turned to their homes. The great body of the people
were pleased at the change^ and rgoiced in being
relieved from the tyranny of the Sultan^ which seemed
to have attained its height.

The following report made to the Lieutenant-Governor
by Colonel Gillespie, when at Palembang, of the atrocious
conduct of the deposed Sultan, is given at length for the
purpose of showing the strong appeal made on the groimd
of humanity to the British government to interpose in
putting a stop to the dreadM scenes of cruelty and op-
pression which were daily occurring.

TO THE HONOURABLE T. S. RAFFLES, LIEUTENANT-GOVERNOR,

&C. &C. &C.

''Honourable Sir,

''As I have been lately employed in acquiring
every information connected with the barbarous and cruel
murder of the Dutch factory and garrison at Palembahg, I
have deferred the transmission of any official report to you
upon this melancholy subject, until I should have obtained

CRUELTIES OF PANGERANG RATOO. 173

the most accurate knowledge of all the particulars^ that the
atrocity of the transactions enabled me to collect. In my
inquiries^ I have been occasionally so bewildered by false-
hood, gmlt. and prevarications, that I have experienced
considerable difficulty in selecting the evidences most
worthy of attention. The choice^ however^ has been made
with the greatest care^ and I imagine the circumstances
which I shall now relate to you may be considered in
every way deserving of beUef.

''You are not ignorant that Pangerang Ratoo^ the
eldest son of the late Sultan, is one of the most abo-
minable and unprmcipled villains that ever disgraced
humanity. The crimes committed by this barbarous
and sanguinary afisassin, since the period he has been
enabled to indulge his abandoned inclinations, have been
distinguished by circumstances of such aggravated cruelty
and guilt, that the inhabitants of the kingdom have
beheld him with one common sentiment of horror, hatred,
and indignation. It is to the crimes of this iniquitous
monster that the massacre of the Dutch may originally
be attributed; to the indulgence of his vicious propen-
sities that his father is now indebted for banishment and
degradation.

" Among other pursuits that were followed by him with
great avidity, was that of spearing the unhappy and de-
fenceless wretches whom he accidentally encountered in
his lawless excmrsions, or of sacrificing their wives and
daughters to his abandoned cruelty and passions. In

174 CRVELTIES OF PANOERANG RATOO.

one of these infamous adventures he became enamoured
of a Chinese woman> whom he was determined to obtain ;
and, lest he should fail in support of his dark and diabo<
lical character, he resolved on compelling the unfortunate
husband to assist in the completion of his wife's dishonour.
The refinement thus exercised upon cruelty and rapine
was more than the unfortunate husband could sustain
without complaint. He knew himself to be in the neigh*
bourhood of the Dutch garrison, and called loudly from
his house for protection' and assistance. An armed party
was detached to his aid, and pursued the Pangerang
Ratoo to his prow on the river, without being sensible of
the dignity they were so successfully routing; the dis-
covery of this unpleasant truth was made by himself
before their separation. The boat was moored several
yards firom the shore^ and in consequence he was com-
pelled to swim a considerable distance before his escape
was complete. No sooner, however, had he gained his
canoe than he turned to his pursuers, and cried with the
most callous effrontery, ' You are ignorant,' said he, ' of the
influence and power you have so audaciously defied ;
know, to your confusion, that it is the Pangerang Batoo
himself, and rest assured that in three days you shall all
of you be murdered, and your present habitations ren-
dered such a scene of desolation, that they shall only be
fit for birds to build their nests on.'

" The accomplishment of this barbarous purpose was too
successfully realized within the period specified by the

CRUELTIES OF PANGERANO RATOO. 175

Pangerang Batoo. A message was sent to the Resident,
the Commandant, and principal officers of the garrison, in
which the Sultan requested them to appear in his presence
for the transaction of some important business. The de-
signing cowards took advantage of this treacherous ma-
noeuvre to introduce within the walls of the fort a mul-
titude of armed Malays, as the followers of the great
men who brought the message from the Sultan.

''The unwary and confiding Dutchmen, unsuspicious
of evil intentions, were speedily surrounded without the
hope of escape ; the guns were all seized by parties on
the ramparts, and the unfortunate garrison were dragged
to a scene of cold-blooded cruelty, which can never be
^contemplated but with sentiments of horror and abhor-
rence, proportioned to the enormity of such unmerited
and unprovoked violence.

^ Among the agents and instruments of this sanguinary
transaction, there is no character so remarkably promi-
nent as that of Tumugung Lonong, the principal magis-
trate of the town. He was not only the harbinger of
teeachery and deceit in the first instance, but he was sub-
sequently the promoter of the Sultan's cruelty, and his
advisCT to destroy the fort, and leave no vestige of Dutch
property remaining^ in Palembang, in order that they
might for ever be exempted from an alliance with
European nations.

''In considering the choice of an ambassador to our
government, I ciumot sufficiently express my astonishment

176 CRUELTIES OF PANOERANO RATOO.

at the boldness and audacity of the Sultan, who selected
this infamous assassin as his agent and representative in
Java.

" The very countenance of the villain betrays the g^t
of which he is capable, and the unwearied obstinacy with
which, in spite of every proof, he denied all knowledge of
the transaction, proclaims him, in my opinion, to have
been deeply involved in the commission of the murder,
and clearly meriting the most exemplary punishment. I
have, therefore, stipulated most expressly with Adipattie,
that all the promoters and abettors of this inhuman mas-
sacre shall be treated with great severity ; that their pro-
perty shall be sequestered the moment they are known,
and a portion of it laid aside for the support of the wives
and orphans who have been so cruelly deprived of their
natural protectors.

^^ There was one European woman among the unhappy
victims thus sacrificed by the Sultan. She was embarked
on the boats, and after suffering every violence and pol-
lution her abandoned murderers were capable of offering
her, she was inhumanly butchered and thrown into the
river with the rest of the garrison.

^^The remaining women were sent as slaves up the
country, and the relation of distress, starvation, and misery
they encountered in their bondage, is calculated to excite
such sentiments of horror and indignation against the
whole race, that at times I can with difficulty hold inter-
course with people allied to such monsters of barbarity.

CRUELTIES OF PANGERANG RATOO. 177

" There was no punishment too severe, no persecution
too considerable, no degradation too humiliating for these
unhappy women. The Resident's wife was pregnant at
the time of her seizure, and although I should consider
few men capable of refusing pity and assistance to women
thus situated, they were unmindfiil of her claims to com-
passion, and they left her in the jungle without nourish-
ment, support, or shelter.

" To detail the various miseries they suffered in slavery
would occupy more time than I have at present in my
power to bestow ; their food was always precarious, and
during months they lived on beetle-nut, or the refuse of
the dunghill ; in short, there was no refinement of op-
pression to which they were not subjected by this despotic
tyrant.

'' Their joy on emancipation is proportioned to the
severity of their former sufferings, and their gratitude to
the government is animated and sincere. Except the one
previously specified, they are nearly all of them under my
protection, and I shall take the earliest opportunity of
either forwarding them to their friends at Java, or permit
them to remain on the island of Banca until some frirther
arrangements may be made respecting them.

^' I have endeavoured to ascertain, as correctly as I can,
the primitive source of the Sultan's inhumanity, which is
clearly to be attributed to the unbounded indulgence. he
has always bestowed on the vices of his son. He appears
to have tolerated him in the pursuit of every evil, and

VOL. I. N

178 MEASURES ADOPTED BY COLONEL GILLESPIE.

protected him in the accomplishment of every object to
which his unruly passions or violent inclinations hurried
him forward^ and to have been but an instrument for the
protection of his son's wickedness. He has discovered
too late, by his own overthrow, the melancholy conse-
quences that ought always to attend so unprincipled a
departure from every sacred law and moral obUgation."

On the 29th May, Colonel Gillespie made his final
report of the ulterior measures adopted by him, in placing
Sultan Satoo Ahmed Nujm-ood-deen on the throne in
the room of his brother, Mahmud Badruddin, who had
been deposed : —

^' The British troops were paraded from the wharf to
the hall of state, and surrounded at a distance the throne
of the Sultan. The flag of the kingdom was saluted with
twenty-one guns, and no mark of public attention was
omitted that could possibly testify my confidence and
respect. The Sultan himself was much afiected during
the progress of the ceremony, and he was attended by an
inunense concourse of people, who appeared sincerely to
rejoice at his unexpected good fortune. When he wa«
seated upon the throne, the British ofiicerd passed in sue*
cession to pay him their respects, and they were followed
by numbers of his subjects, who vied with each other in
testifying their attachment and fidelity.

'* I shall have the honour to fi>rward to you all the
public documents that were either proclaimed or ratified
upon this important occasion. You wiU see by the stipu-

GENERAL ORDERS. 179

lations of the treaty, how completely they have been dic-
tated with a view to our interests, and you will perceive
that the cession of Banca and Billiton is unlimited and
complete.

'^ Although the Sultan was considerably disappointed
at the failure of his wishes respecting the British force, I
had the satisfaction to leave him in the most confident
assurance of his safety and strength. He expressed the
most lively and grateftd sense of aU the benefits that had
been conferred upon him by the British government, pro-
mised faithfully to use every exertion for the recovery of
the Sultan's treasures, and assured me the half of them
should instantly be forwarded to Batavia according to
a stipulation in the treaty between himself and the East
India Company.

'^ In establishing the British authority at Minto (pre>
viously called Minta by the natives), I declared the island
of Banca to be named after his Boyal Highness the Duke
of York ; the capital town after the Bight Hon. the
Governor-General of all India; and the fort now building
there after his Excellency the Commander-in-Chief.

" Yours, &c.
'* Robert Bollo Gillespie."

The general orders express the fueling entertained by
Mr, Raffles of Colonel Gillespie's service in this affair.

Samarang, Jime eth, 1812.
^' The Lieutenant-Governor is happy to congratulate

180 GENERAL ORDERS.

Colonel Gillespie on his return to Java^ and on the
full accomplishment of the objects of the late expe-
dition.

'r The successM termination of these operations, in a
manner so highly beneficial to the interests of humanity,
and to the security and advantage of the British posses-
sions in those seas, must be entirely attributed to the
prompt, judicious, and politic measures adopted under the
personal direction of the Commander of the Forces. And
although the applause so justly due on this occasion may
rather fall within the province of a higher authority, to
whom the proceedings will be submitted, it is gratifying
to the Lieutenant-Governor that he is not precluded from
bearing pubUc testimony to the services which have been
rendered, nor of expressing his admiration of the superior
talent and character which have been so conspicuous
throughout.

" The Lieutenant-Governor requests Colonel Gillespie
will accept his best thanks for the zeal, ability, and pre-
cision with which the service has been executed : and in
recording his entire approbation and unreserved con^
firmation of the whole of the arrangements made for the
future security and advantage of the British interests, the
Lieutenant-Governor is satisfied that he only anticipates
the sentiments of the Supreme Governor.

" By order of the Lieutenant-Governor,

(Signed) '' J. Eckford,

" Acting Secretary."

EXTRACT FROM CAPTAIN TRAVERs' JOURNAL. 181

The following is an extract from Captain Travers'
Journal at the time : —

" The native courts of Djoqocarta and Souracarta be-
came troublesome soon after the establishment of the
British power in Java^ and Mr. Bai&es determined on
visiting them for the purpose of satisfying himself as to
the merits of the complaints then made^ and to inquire
into the abuses which were known to exist. The distance
was considerable^ but his own personal convenience he
never considered. The rapidity with which he travelled
exceeded anything ever known on the island before. The
average rate was more than twelve miles per hour. Un-
fortunately he was but badly recompensed for the exer-
tion^ as the arrangements he then made^ and the tran-
quillity he established^ were but of short duration^ as a
reference to the records of government will show. Imme-
diately after his return from the native courts he planned
an expedition against Palembang, to punish the Sultan
for a most barbarous act of treachery and cruelty in
murdering all the Dutch residents there^ the moment
that intelligence reached them of the capture pf Java by
the English.

^' After the expedition to Palembang had sailed^ Mr.
Raffles's attention was again directed to the courts of
Djocjocarta and Souracarta^ where disturbances were rer
commencing, particularly at the former place^ and he, in
consequence, determined on proceeding to Samarang,
when he took his family with him. On his arrival at

182 MR. RAFFLES COLLECTS TROOPS, &C.

Samarang he obtained such information as led him to
suppose that it would be dijSicult to bring the Sultan of
Djocjocarta to pacific terms. He accordingly deemed it
prudent to collect such a force in the neighbourhood as
would enable him to dictate such terms as he deemed
advisable for the safety of the island.

*' At the time these operations were carrying on, Mr.
Raffles was avaiUng himself of every opportunity of gain-
ing local knowledge. The native chiefs were constant
guests at his table, and there was not a moment of his
time which he did not contrive to devote to some useM
purpose. The only recreation he ever indulged in, and
that was absolutely necessary for the preservation of his
health, was an evening drive, and occasionally a ride in
the morning. He was not, however, at this time an early
riser, owing to his often writing till a very late hour at
night. He was moderate at table, but so ftdl of life and
spirits, that on public ^casions he would often sit much
longer than agreed with him. In general the hour for
dinner w^ four o'clock, which enabled the party to take a
drive in the. evening; but on all public days, and when
the party was large, dinner was at seven o'clock. At
Samarang the sodely of course was small in comparison
with Batavia, but on public occasions sixty and eighty
were often assembled at the Government-house, and at
balls from 150 to 180. Mr. Raffles never retired early,
always remained till after supper, was affable, animated,
agreeable, and attentive to all, and never seemed fatigued.

MR. RAFFLES* RETURN TO BATAVIA. 183

although perhaps at his desk all the morning, and on the
following day would be at business at ten o'clock. In
conducting the detail, of government, and giving his
orders to those immediately connected with his own office,
his manner was most pleasing, mild, yet firm ; he quickly
formed his decision, and gave his orders with a clearness
and perspicuity which was most satisfactory to every one
connected with him ; he was ever courteous and kind,
easy of access at all times, exacting but little from his
staff, who were most devotedly attached to him. The
generosity of his disposition, and the liberality of his sen-
timents, were most conspicuous and universally acknow-
ledged.

'^ As a public servant, no man could apply himself with
more zeal and attention to the arduous duties of his
office. ' He never allowed himself the least relaxation,
and was ever alert in the discharge of the important trust
committed to him; and it is astonishing how long his
health continued good under such great exertions both of
mind and body.

" Whilst remaining at Samarang, a fleet arrived at
Batavia from England, bound to China, and at the same
time a vessel was reported ready to sail from thence to
Batavia, which determined Mr. Baffles on proceeding
there without delay, to receive the despatches ; on which
occasion Mr. Assey, Secretary to Government, and my-
self, accompanied him. We embarked on board a small
vessel, the Hamston, and had a very quick piassage of

184 MR. raffles' return to buitenzorg.

only seventy-two hours ; during which time he drew up
the Report on the capture of Djocjocarta, entering into a
full and clear account of the circumstances which rendered
this measure absolutely necessary for the preservation of
peace on the island. We landed at seven o'clock in the
evening, when a grand public ball was given at Welter-
vreeden, to celebrate the anniversary of the Prince Re-
gent's birth-day. At this entertainment Mr. Raffles, to
the astonishment of all present, attended, as it was sup-
posed he was at.Samarang. He was the life and spirit of
the entertainment. Not less than three hundred persons
were assembled; and, indeed, on all similar occasions,
which were always duly celebrated under Mr. Raffles's
government, he contributed greatly to promote and en-
courage the gaiety and amusement of the party. After
remaining a short time, he returned overland to Sama^
rang, where he was most actiyely employed in completing
the arrangement attendant on the capture of Djocjocarta,
which of course brought an accession of territory to the
Government, and which called for local knowledge and
personal observation, to render profitable and advan-
tageous. After obtaining all the information within his
reach, Mr. Raffles and his family returned to Buitenzorg,
at the close of 1812, where, of course, some arrears of
public business awaited his arrival, and to which he de-
voted the most zealous assiduity."

The Sultan of Djocjocarta, who Was the most violent
and intriguing of the native princes in Java, entertained

SULTAN OF DJOCJOCARTA. 185

a rooted animosity against all the Europeans settled in
the island. Under the former government he had evinced
a degree of hostility which compelled Marshal Daendels
to direct an army against him^ and to proceed in person
to his capital. The plans of the Sultan not being then
sufficiently matured on the one hand, and Daendels fear-
ing the arrival of the British expedition on the other, a
compromise was entered into between them, by which the
Sultan agreed to pay the sum of 200,000 Spanish dollars
to the Marshal. The Sultan the more readily acceded to
this, as he cherished the idea of being soon enabled to
carry into fiiU effect his vengeful purposes.

The turbulent spirit of this chief had shown itself again,
after the establishment of the British in the island : in
consequence of which, Mr. Raffles thought it necessary
to proceed in person to the Sultan's court, in the month
of December, 1811, with the intention of fixing definitively
the relation between the two governments by a treaty,
which it was hoped would prove as binding on the one
side, as he felt it would be strictly observed on the
other. But the event soon proved the fallacy of such
an expectation.

Mr. Baffles set out for Djogocarta, accompanied by a
part only of the 14th Regiment, a troop of the 22nd light
Dragoons, and the ordinary garrison of Bengal Sepoys in
the fort, and at the Residency-house. This was all the
force which, at the moment, he could command, and cir-
cumstances did not admit of delay. The service was one

186 TREATY CONCLUDED WITH THE SULTAN.

of imminent peril; the whole retinae were at one time in
danger of being murdered. Mr. Baffles received the
Sultan in the hall of audience. The Sultan was accom-
panied by several thousands of armed followers, who ex-
pressed in their behaviour an infuriated spirit of inso-
lence ; and several of his own suite actually unsheathed
their creesses, to indicate plainly that they only waited for
the signal to perpetrate the work of destruction : had this
been given, from the manner in which the English were
surrounded, not a man could have escaped. Though at
this time no act of treacherous hostility took place, the
crafty and sanguinary Sultan drew from the circumstances
which he observed, a confidence in his own strength; and
being thus persuaded that the expulsion of the Europeans
from the Island of Java was become more feasible, he
resolved at once to adopt means for accomplishing this
favourite object of his ambition.

Mr. Baffles, however, concluded a treaty with him, on
terms which were considered, at the time, equally advan-
tageous to the British interests, and beneficial to the
prosperity of the country, which remained under the
administration of the Sultan. In this treaty, the sove-
reignty of the British over the island of Java was acknow-
ledged by the Sultan, who confirmed to the English East
India Company all the privileges, advantages, and prero-
gatives which had been possessed by the Dutch and French
governments. To the Company also were tranferred the
sole regulation of the duties and the collection of tribute

LETTER TO LORD MINTO. 187

within the dominions of the Sultan, as well as the general
administration of justice, in cases where the British inte-
rests were concerned.

The Sultan on this occasion expressed his contrition for
the atrocities which had been committed under his autho-
rity, and made professions of friendship, pledging himself
in every way to fiilfil the conditions of the treaty.

But he only waited for a favourable opportunity to
attempt the entire expidsion of the European power ; and
Mr. Baffles was obliged to proceed against him with an
expedition, which ended in obtaining possession of the
Sultan, as well as that of the hereditary Prince, without
plunder or harsh usage, and the country then fell under
the disposal of the English.

Mr. Baffles concludes his account to Lord Minto
thus : —

*' The hereditary Prince has been raised to the throne ;
all the principal chieftaiDs have submitted to his authority,
and the country has every appearance of tranquillity. I
passed &om Djocjocarta to this place in thirteen hours
(about a hundred miles), and accounts from every quarter
confirm my expectations that the arrangements I had
made would prevent the possibility of commotion.

" The European power is for the first time paramount
in Java. We are now able to dictate the terms of the
fixture connexion with the British government and the
native administration.

si( « H: 4( #

188 LETTER TO MR. RAFFLES.

'' The Craton having fallen by assault^ it was impos-
sible to make any provision for Government to cover the
expenses of the undertakings consequently the whole
plunder became prize to the army ; it is considerable^ but
it could not be in better hands ; they richly deserve what
they got. I cannot speak too highly of the conduct of the
army."

It will be seen by the followmg extracts^ that Mr.
Baffles had the satisfaction to receive from Lord Minto
the most unqualified approbation of aU his measures.

*• Calcutta, \bth Dec, 1812.
" My dear Sir,

'^I shall be impatient for the materials which
are called for, because I am anxious to deUver, without
reserve or qualification, the very high and favourable
view I now have of that whole series of measures, begin-
ning with the expedition to Palembang, and ending with
the arrangement of the two courts of Solo andDjocjocarta^
connected and combined with each other as those mea-
sures were. I consider the result of the latter proceeding
as very glorious to your administration, during the short
period of which more will have been accomplished for the
security of the European power, the tranquillity of the
island, and the solid improvement of general prosperity
and happiness, than several centuries have been able to
perform, when the superiority of European power was
exerted, unencumbered by the scruples of justice and
good faith.

LETTER TO MR. RAFFLES. 189

*' Nothing can be more excellent than all your arrange-
ments in the eastern districts of Java.

" With regard to Palembang and Banca^ your latest
reports have enabled lis to approve, without reservation,
the arrangement formed at Palembang, and the* an-
nexation of Banca to the territories of the East India
Company, our minds being satisfied upon the two points
of justice and expediency. The sovereignty of the Sultan
of Palembang in Banca is placed beyond question, and
leaves that dependence of Palembang indisputably sub-
ject, both to the laws of conquest in so just a war, and
to the efiFect of cession from the authority under which it
is now held.

*^ Believe me ever, my dear Sir, most truly and aflFec-
tionately yours,

" MiNTO."

This private letter is so far of importance as it shows,
in the most unreserved manner. Lord Minto*s anxious
desire to record his opinion pubUcly before he quitted
India — ^the delay in acquiring and transmitting the neces-
sary materials unfortunately preventing his doing so, and
to this unavoidable omission may be attributed much of
the trouble and difficulty in which Mr. Raffles was after-
wards involved.

CHAPTER VI.

Difference of opinion between Colonel Gillespie and Mr, Rqfflei
Re-establishment qf Society of Arts — Importance of connexion
between Java and China to the East India Company's interests —
Consequence qf a King's government upon their monopoly — Lord
Minto's anxiety to provide for Mr. Raffles, in the prospect of the
Island being transferred to the crown — Lord Minto's approval qf
the measures of government — Calling in depreciated paper — Pro-
mise of an official approbation — Account of the Colonies — Depre-
ciated state of paper currency — Want of specie — Land rental —
Revenues of government — Proposed literary work — Lord Minto's
return to England — His last letter on leaving Calcutta — Expe-
dition to Sambas,

In consequence of the desire of the Commander of the
Forces to retain a much larger military establishment in
the island than Mr. Baffles conceived to be necessary^ or
than was in accordance with the directions and injunctions
of die Supreme Government^ much painful discussion took
place; Mr. Baffles being very desirous not to bear too
heavy on the finances of the colony.

Mr. Baffles having aheady directed his attention^ even
during the performance of his most arduous political
duties^ to subjects more congenial to his taste^ wrote
at this date thus :

" January y 1813.
"I forwarded by the Java several reports from Dr.

BATAVIAN LITERARY SOCIETY. 191

Horsfield on the natural history of the Eastern Islands ;
duplicates of these^ with specimens of plants^ and a col-
lection of quadrupeds^ birds^ &c.^ are transmitted by the
Juliana^ and I trust will be found acceptable^ and worthy
of a place in the Oriental Museum. The Literary Society
of Batavia^ which has been so long dormant^ has been
again revived^ its constitution has undergone an entire
change^ and a spirit of inquiry and research is obvious
among its members. An additional volume of the
Batavian Besearches is now completing^ and I trust it
will not be long before the Society gives to the world a
proof of the advantages it derives under the mild and
protecting principles of the British government.

'^ Statistical accounts are nearly completed of the whole
of the island, and the proceedings of the commission of
which Colonel Mackenzie is the President being about to
close, I look forward to an early opportunity of communi-
cating on every thing which concerns the happiness and
prosperity of this colony, and of forwarding a detailed and
accurate account of its resources, advantages, and capa-
bilities, under any and whatever authority or system of
government it may be eventuaUy placed."

It was about this time that Mr. Baffles re-established
the Society of Arts and Sciences in Batavia, to which he
alludes in the preceding letter. This institution had
entirely declined in consequence of the difficulties to
which the island of Java had been exposed for many
years. He hoped by this means to promote literary and

192 MR. raffles' address.

scientific pursuits ; and it afforded him a source of great
pleasure and satisfaction to be the. instrument of giving
new life to the first institution of the kind, which had ever
been established by Europeans in the East. This society
continued to meet regularly under his watchfiil care and
superintendence, until the island was restored to the
Dutch. The addresses which he delivered on the first
meeting of the society, and at a subsequent one in 1815,
tended to excite a warm interest in all the members, while
they showed that the performance of the arduous duties of
a public station are not incompatible, and may be combined
with, an active pursuit of literary and scientific objects.

The Discourse concludes thus* :

" The Japanese are a people with whom the European
world might hold intercourse without compromise of cha-
racter ; for the Japanese themselves are wonderfully in-
quisitive in all points of science^ and possess a mind
curious and anxious to receive information, without in-
quiring from what quarter it comes.

''Let us hope that now, when

' That spell upon the minds of men
Breaks, never to unite again' —

no withering policy may blast the fair fruits of that spirit
of research which has gone forth from this Hall ; nor con-
tinue, under any circumstances, to shut out one-half of
the world from the intelligence which the other half may
possess."

* This Discourse will be found at the end of Vol. II.

UNSETTLED TENURE OF JAVA. 193

While thus occupied in the encouragement of every
object calculated to promote the good of the people whom
he governed, and to enlarge our knowledge of their insti-
tutions, habits, and character, not only Mr. Raffles but
his superiors also in Bengal remained entirely ignorant
of the intentions of the Government at home, or of the
East India Company, as to the fiiture condition of the
island. Years had elapsed, and still nothing was decided
on its fate. One of the chief difficulties with which Mr.
Raffles had to contend, and which indeed affected every
measure, arose from this uncertainty. He had to admi-
nister the government of the island without knowing
whether it was to belong to the King or to the Company,
which led to embarrassment, and created differences of
opinion, as the wishes and interests of individuals were
likely to be affected by the decision. Mr. Raffles wrote
to Mr. Ramsay, Secretary of the East India Company,
on this subject.

TO W. RAMSAY, ESQ., FROM MR. RAFFLES.

** Batavia, Jan. 8, 1813.

" There is perhaps no point of view in which the pos-
session of Java deserves to be more seriously considered,
than in its connexion with China, and its influence on
the Company's interests and prospects there. It is of the
first importance to them, that in any arrangements which
may be made for the future government of this colony,
or for throwing the trade of India open to individuals,

VOL. I. o • '

194 TRADE OF JAVA AND OF CHINA.

the nature of this connexion^ and the extent of this
influence should be fully known, in ordet that the Com-
pany's interests at Canton, and their exclusive trade to
China may not be interfered with.

4c ♦ 4c ♦ « *

'^The state of the Company's finances in China has
already induced the supercargoes to open a communi-
cation on the subject. They represent the deficiency of
their funds, and ask for consignments from hence.

3» * 3» * ♦ «

"Another point of moment is the extent to which
printed-cottons may be introduced into Java from Eng-
land. I am most sanguine in my expectations of suc-
cess, provided strict attention is paid to the patterns and
sizes, as well as to the other suggestions which accompany
the musters; the consignments, however, should, in the
first instance, be considered rather as an experiment;
and, afterwards, if the cloths are once generally and
advantageously introduced, there will be no difficulty in
increasing the quantity to an unlimited (extent. The
extent to which other staples and manufactures may be
imported with advantage, I have stated in a Beport*."

4c 4e 4t * 4c 3|c

On the prospect of the island of Java being transferred
to the crown, and the probability of a King's officer being
appointed to the government. Lord Minto displayed a

* The inhabitants of Java are now, 1829, principally supplied with
the cotton and woollen manufactures of England.

GOVERNMENT OF JAVA. 195

generous concern to promote and secure the interests of
his friend, to whom he wrote as follows : —

" February 22nd, 1813.

:^ 9|: 4e * 4e ♦

^'I have already written to you concerning the ope-
rations of this event (the arrival of General Maitland)
upon your situation ; and I need not repeat my former
communication on a subject which is, however, deeply and
sensibly interesting to my wishes and feelings.

'' But I have to acquaint you with an honourable
retreat, if your present office should pass into other
hands. Mr. Parker has been compelled by ill health to
quit Bencoolen. If any obstacle should arise to the views
which I suppose you might entertain on Java, in the event
of a change of government, or if you should prefer the
Residency of Fort Marlborough to any other situation
that might be open for you in the East, my resolution is
to appoint you to succeed Mr. Parker. It must not be
forgotten, at the same time, that the orders of the Court
of Directors are to place a civil servant of the Bengal
establishment in that office. That circumstance will not
prevent me from appointing you, because I flatter myself
the claims which made so strong an impression on me will
be admitted by others ; and I am unwiUing to doubt the
Court's confirmation of the measure, and. the many
weighty and forcible considerations which certainly re-
commend it.

" If there should be any hesitation on the subject, I

196 GOVERNMENT OF JAVA.

should feel some reliance on the early exertion I shall
have an opportunity of making, in person, at home, my

departure from hence being fixed for next January.

* « » » ♦

*' My opinion now is, that in military questions aflFect-
ing especially the economy of your government, you
should adopt and carry into eflFect firmly, the measures
which, after every proper reference to the Commander of
the Forces, and with every due deference to his senti-
ments, you ultimately judge to be either expedient in
themselves, or conformable to our instructions. To give
way on the spot, and refer to us to reverse the measures,
which have been conceded merely in a spirit of concili-
.ation, is a very slow and dilatory process, considering the
distance and length of time required for communication
between Java and Bengal. It might, perhaps, be admis-
sible, if the instances were rare ; but opposition on such
points being not only frequent but uniform, an exercise of
the power vested in you on the spot becomes indis-
pensable.

" Pray let me know your wishes on the subject of your
appointment to Bencoolen as soon as possible. But I
^hall take care to make the office accessible to you by an
actual appointment, subject to your own option, as soon
as I know with certainty that the present government of
Java is to be changed. You have had, and will still have
many competitors here, and some of the very highest
rank, merit, and pretensions in India ; but so far as the

APPOINTMENT TO BENCOOLEN. 197

power of this government can avails you may consider the
affair as decided."

FROM LORD MINTO TO MR. RAFFLES.

Calcutta, May 10/A, 1813.

" Although nothing is certain, I should think, on the
whole, that Lord Moira will arrive in Bengal in July, or
say by the 1st of August.

" This expectation occasions a great embarrassment
and anxiety about you ; for the final decision concerning
Java may not be known in the country during my govern-
ment, and there will consequently be a difficulty in ap-
pointing you to Bencoolen, if that should be the case :
for I presume you would not wish to renounce Java
definitively until the necessity of doing so should be posi-
tively ascertained. What I can do at present is to keep
Bencoolen open. If I should learn, while I am in office,
that you are certainly to be reUeved at an early period, I
shall make your appointment to Fort Marlbro', and send
it to you at Batavia, that you may go at once from Java
to your own station.

" Ail that can be said is, that I shall be watchful for
your interest, and shall omit nothing that depends on me
to accomplish what I think due to your merits and ser-
vices, as well as to evince the esteem and affection which
I have sincere pleasure in professing towards you."

EXTRACT OF A LETTER FROM LORD MINTO TO MR. RAFFLES.

June 22nd, 1813,
" I cannot safely wait longer for authentic accounts of

198 APPOINTMENT TO BENCOOLEN.

the resolution taken in England concerning Java ; and I
have, therefore, adopted the measure of at once appoint-
ing you formally to Fort Marlbro' ; to take effect on your
being relieved from your present office, or resigning it ;
the allowances to commence from the time of your depar-
ture from Java.

" The letter which I have just addressed to you as
President of the Literary Society of Batavia, leaves little
for me to add to the very gratifying proof of their kind
recollection and regard frurnished by the address which
you enclosed to me, and I shall only say, in the sincerity
of private correspondence, that I have derived from it very
particular satisfaction. I hope you will ply your labours
— ^the field is extensive, and to a great portion even of the
learned world new — diligence has not been wanting, and
ability has been abundant in your era — for which, cer-
tainly, much is due to you, as you are truly told. I am
very grateM for the great stone from the interior of your
island; in weight, at least, it seems to rival the base of
Peter the Great's statue at St. Petersburgh.

'* I shall be very much tempted to mount this Java
rock on our Minto craigs, that it may tell eastern tales of
us long after our heads lie under smoother stones.

*' Your Twelve Caesars* are placed on handsome
pedestals in the marble hall at Calcutta, and you would
be pleased to see how well they suit that fine room, and

* Busts formerly in the Government Hall of the Dutch Governor-
General at Batavia, and sent by Mr. Raffles to Lord Minto.

COURTS OF SOLO AND DJOCJOCARTA. 199

how omaxnental Aey are to it. An inscription on the
pedestal of Julius Caesar is to make him tell his own his-
tory and that of his successors^ and how they all came
there. He will (prophetically it must be) introduce your
name into this chapter of his Commentaries.

* # 4i * 4:

^' I learnt with great pleasure that you have determined
to accept the Eesidency of Fort Marlbro'. When I first
made this proposition I was not aware that I might soon
lose the power of making the appointment. I have since
felt considerable uneasiness lest I should be overtaken by
an event which cannot be distant, and disabled from
accomplishing an object which I have so much at heart.
I wrote you by the Hussar under that apprehension, and
before I had entirely determined the course I should
pursue.

FROM LORD MINTO TO MR. RAFFLES.

" Calcutta^ June 24/A, 1813.
" We have received the documents you have frimished
in support of the measures adopted by you, respecting
the. courts of Solo and Djocjocarta — ^we wish, of course,
frpm the great importance of the subject, not only to give
it a ftdl consideration, but to accompany the judgment we
are to pass upon it with a satisfactory explanation of the
grounds on which the opinion is formed. This requires a
' little, and but a little more time than, oppressed as we
now are by the winding up of an administration of seven
years, and by the despatch of ships to England, it has

200 LETTER TO W. B. RAMSAY, ESQ.

been possible for us to afford — you need not, however, feel
any uneasiness oij account of this short delay : I have
myself read all the papers with the greatest attention,
and have perused a second time all that your correspond-
ence and the proceedings of your government furnish on
this subject ; I am happy to say that I am myself entirely
satisfied ; and although the members of Council have not
yet read all the papers, the conversations which I have
held with them on the subject leave me no doubt that we
shall concur in the result.

" Our judgment on this and several other capital points
of your administration, which are not included in the
official despatches by the Nearchus, will be forwarded in a
week or two after the departure of that ship. Amongst
these are the operation of calling in the depreciated paper
which hung so heavily on your finances, an operation
which is highly applauded ; and the sale of lands which
enabled you to execute the former measure, which is also
approved.

TO WILLIAM BROWN RAMSAY, ESQ.

" Butienzorg, June, 1813.
" We are still here, without any change, or even
rumours of a change, which, after the uncertain period
which has passed, may be considered as a very great im-
mediate gratification to us ; but I am not so untutored in
the ways of the world, or so confident in the propriety of
the measures of our government at home, as to calculate
with any certainty on the result. I am prepared and

LETTER TO W. B. RAMSAY, ESQ. 201

ready to meet a change whenever it may occur. At Ben-
coolen I am promised the chief authority, if removed
hence; at Penang, my standing in the service would
insure me a seat in the council, but I confess that I

should say farewell to Java with a heavy heart.

*****

" I do not know whether I am to attribute your silence
to an habitual laziness in every thing which concerns busi-
ness, or to a carelessness about me and mine ; the latter
I must doubt, and I would hope that you will not allow
the former to supersede what, as a friend, I have a right
to think my due.

''It is most likely you think much less about us than
we think about you, and perhaps it is natural that it
should be so : I will only say, that if you forget me, I
will not forget you.

" Adieu, and beUeve me ever yours,

" With sincerity and truth,

" T. S. R."

TO W. B. RAMSAY, ESQ.

Javtty September 15 th, 1813.
" Every thing is going on prosperously here ; and, as
I have often told you before, if the authorities at home
leave us alone, every thing must continue to go on pros-
perously. You will hear of some war here ; but I think
you know enough of my disposition to believe that I
prefer peace and harmony to war and anarchy ; and that
I would rather have kept my little army (about 12,000)

202 LORD MINTO'S LAST LETTER TO MR. RAFFLES.

in comfortable quarters. My measures have been throughr
out successfiil.

" I shall come home, not laden with riches and spoils,
but, I trust, with some little honour and credit."

The time was now arrived when Lord Minto was to
take his departure from Calcutta, on which occasion he
wrote to Mr. Baffles the following letter, expressive of
the friendship he felt, and the warm interest he continued
to take in his welfare : —

Calcutta, November, 1813.
" In taking leave of my public relation with you, as I
must in this letter, I am at a loss how to proceed. On
the one hand, there are so many points, or rather exten-
sive subjects, on which a free communication of my senti-
ments is due to you, that every hour which remains of my
residence in India would be too few to acquit myself of
that debt, in a manner entirely satisfactory to myself or
you. On the other hand, the last, or I may say more
properly, the posthumous duties of my station in India,
added to the preparations for my departure, and the very
interesting offices of society and friendship which belong
to the occasion, leave only moments, when days would be
wanted, for the demands still outstanding against me.
You wiU, therefore, not impute to me want of interest in
the matter I have now before me, if I aim at conci3eness
and brevity in a greater degree than I am accustomed to
do. My official authority, and, therefore, my personal

LORD MINTO'S LAST L£TTE$l TO MR. RAFFLES. 203

interposition in public business, was to end somewhere ;
and the arrears which the excess of labour required in
this government beyond the powers of human diligence,
must unavoidably cause, at the close of my Indian admi-
nistration, have carried my demise a Uttle higher than the
nominal termination of my office, in such a manner as to
leave the formal decision of several affairs which arose in
my own period, to the authority which succeeds me.

''You will accept, therefore, what I am now able to
offer, as only the firiendly suggestions of the deep and
lively interests I can never cease to take in all that con-
cerns your public trust, and your personal reputation and
welfare. In this I may be less careRil than I might
otherwise be, to separate my public from my private sen-
timents in this letter.

* * * * ' :¥

'' On the financial operation of withdrawing the depre-
ciated paper from circulation by a considerable sale of
lands, the resolutions of this government must be con-
veyed to you by my successor ; but I am unwilling to
withhold from you my individual sentiments on a measure
ofso much importance.

" I bcjgin, therefore, by assenting without reservation to
the absolute and exigent necessity which was the motive,
and is the justification, of the proceeding. The revenues
and all the demands of government were paid in paper
which could not be re-issued; there \gas, therefore, a
virtual suspension of receipt at the public treasury. To

204 LORD MINTO'S LAST LETTER TO MR. RAFFLES.

avoid this total loss, the paper must have been issued
again, at the discount of the day, which would have dis-
credited the currency stiQ more, and would have involved
an enormous and constantly-recurring loss. This state
of things left you no option but to withdraw the paper, to
make room for some better medium of circulation, and the
operation of the evil was too rapid to admit of delay.

" The only plan for the redemption of the paper which
could be found, appears very clearly to have been pre-
cisely that to which you had recourse — the sale ' of pubhc
property; and it must be deemed fortunate that this
resource existed, and proved to be immediately available.

" I consider, therefore, your measure to have been an
able expedient in a case of great emergency.

*' At the same time I conceive the necessity of a prompt
remedy to form the essential, and, indeed, the indispen-
sable ground of the resolution that was taken, for I should
not, I confess, have thought an extensive alienation of the
public domains advisable in itself, under the particular
circumstances of the colony at the time. First, it was too
important a measure to be adopted during a provisional
government, the duration of which is more than preca-
rious. Secondly, it ought (and naturally would, without
the pressure of immediate necessity) to have received the
previous sanction of the supreme government. Thirdly,
although my views, as you know, lead to the transfer of
public territory to the management of individual industry,
and the creation of a genuine landed interest, with all its

LORD MINTO'S LAST LETTER TO MR. RAFFLES. 205

immediate benefits and ameliorating tendencies, in the
room of the deplorable system of vassalage and depend-
ence under which land is now held in Java ; yet I have
felt that this change could not be brought about suddenly,
partly from the very nature of all extensive changes,
partly from the circumstances of the colony, which con-
tains at present neither capital nor capitalists enough to
afford a comparison between the value in the market, of
land and money, either fair or at all approaching to fair.
I should have inclined, therefore, to small and partial sales
of land, if ahenation in perpetuity should have been
thought advisable at all, proportioned in some degree to
the disposable quantity of money in the hands of indivi-
duals. But the general course to be recommended I
conceive to be short leases, followed by longer, and ulti-
mately by perpetuities. I touch upon these points the
more willingly, for the purpose of conveying to you a
caution on the subject, founded on our knowledge of the
sentiments which appear to be the most prevalent at
home, but which you may not be apprized of.

^* There is a great division of opinion on the question
of permanent settlements, and the extension of that
system to the newly-acquired provinces under the Presi-
dency of Bengal, which has in a great degree been carried
into effect during my administration.
- " The introduction of that system has been gradual in
those provinces, but yet more sudden than is approved at
home. But Java is in a state infinitely less favourable to

206 LORD MINTO'S LAST LETTER TO MR. RAFFLES.

perpetual alienations^ and yon may depend upon such
measures^ unsupported by particular exigency, being dis-
approved^ and, indeed, disavowed and annulled by the
authorities in England.

" There are many other points of public business,
indeed much too many, in which I am in your debt ; but,
as I have already said, I must break my staff somewhere.

" I have had an early communication with Lord Moira*
concerning your appointment to Bencoolen ; and I have
the happiness to say, that he acquiesced entirely in the
arrangement that was made, and specifically in the pro-
priety of your continuing to administer the government of
Java, until the future destiny of that island should be
fixed by the government at home.

" I ought not to conclude without congratulating you
on the success of the Sambas expedition. ♦ ♦ *

'* Your measures at Palembang, you will have seen,
have had our entire concurrence. * * *

*' My picture was far advanced before I received your
intimation that the smaller picture formerly sent would
be accepted as an anticipation of the request contained in
the address. I think you will be glad of this, as the fiill-
length, as large as life, which is now ready, is one of the
best works I ever saw, and every way worthy of the re-
spectable body at whose command it has been executed.

'* I propose, when that picture arrives at Batavia, to

* His Lordship had just arrived in Calcutta as successor to Earl
Minto.

SALE OF LANDS. 207

request that you will accept and keep the latter for my
sake.

" I must close here, but not take leave, for I hope for
one more opportunity.

" Believe me.
Ever most faithAiUy and affectionately yours,

" MiNTO."

The sale of lands alluded to in the foregoing letter, it
will be seen, was highly approved by Lord Minto as an
ahle expedient in a case of great emergency ; and of his
ability to judge from local knowledge, as well as general
experience, no one will doubt. It was, in fact, the only
expedient that could be devised to support the credit of
the new government, at a time when it was most im-
portant to create a favourable impression upon the popu-
lation, on the change of their rulers. Yet it was strongly
condemned by the Coiui; of Directors ; perhaps because
they did not possess either the local knowledge or the
experience which were necessary to form a right judgment.

The sale of lands was no new measure ; it had been
resorted to at different periods under the Dutch govern-
ment, and more especially in the administration of Mar-
shal Daendels, when not only large estates, but whole
districts, had been thus disposed of. The English go-
vernment succeeded in a moment of the greatest public dis-
tress, when the Dutch had been unable to pay even their
lowest establishments, when the fiinds of the public chari-

208 EXPEDITION TO SAMBAS.

ties had been appropriated to the necessities of the state^
and the finances of the colony were bankrupt. The English
government succeeded also to the existing colonial laws
and usages, by which they were borne out in the right of
alienating such lands as might be found necessary for the
support of the state, and as a partial sale of lands had
been estimated among the available resources for the
expenses of the ciurent year, and had passed without
comment by the supreme government, a tacit consent
might be implied that the measure in itself was justifiable.
The expedition to Sambas, also alluded to in the fore-
going letter, originated in a report brought by a trading
vessel of the loss of the ship Coromandel, and the increas-
ing depredations of the piratical Chief of Sambas. This
report was sent to Captain Bowen, then senior officer of
his Majesty's navy on the station, with a request that he
would direct his attention to that quarter. Captain
Bowen in consequence expressed his intention of proceed-
ing to Sambas, and requested a hundred men to act as
marines, his ships being short of their complement.
General Gillespie ordered the men to be supplied; but
the expedition was purely a naval one, and the supply of
these men the only concern the Java government had
in it.

CHAPTER VII.

General NightingaU appointed to relieve General Gillespie — Gene-
ral Gillespie brings charges against Mr. Raffles — Decision of the
Court of Directors on them — Ancient characters on stones from
the temples — Establishment of the improved system of govern^
ment — Principles oh which it was founded — Institutions ofMaja-
pahit, his division of society into classes — Mr, Rc^ffles' reasons for
introducing the change in the tenure of the land^His anxiety
and fatigue during its progress— Support of General Nightin-
gaU — Eventual fate of Java — Hesitation of supreme government
to give any rule for the guidance of the government — Fbrced to
act in every measure of importance, in consequence, on his own
responsibility— Suppression of piracy — Slave-trade declared to be
felony, by a Colonial Law — Can only be repealed by the mother
country — Leading inhabitants concur, and registered their slaves
— Mission to Japan— Opening of trade with it— Disapproved by
the Bengal government — Approved by the Court of Directors.

The difference of opinion before alluded to with General
GiUespie involved Mr. Rai&es in great trouble, and aug-
mented the cares and anxieties connected with the admi-
nistration of his extensive government. Owing to some
misapprehension, and to other causes, which it is needless
now to enumerate, two months after the departure of
Lord Minto, General Gillespie conceived it his duty to
represent to the Governor-General in council at Calcutta,
that certain parts of Mr. Raffles' administration were
neither so purely nor so wisely conducted as the pubUc

VOL. I. p

210 CHARGES AGAINST MR. RAFFLES.

service required. Of course, the Bengal government re-
quired specific charges to be framed, which, when received,
were forwarded to Mr. BafBes for his replies.

The charges embraced such a variety of topics, indeed
almost the whole extent of his government, that, had Mr.
Baffles not been perfectly master of his subject, or had he
been less correct in every branch of his duties, the severity
of this scrutiny would have been fatal to his public cha-
racter, even had it not touched what every upright man
is still more punctilious in protecting from the breath of
slander — ^his own private fair fame. But the result in
Mr. Raffles' case was highly beneficial : for the inquiry
rendered it imperative upon him to enter into many dis-
cussions, which delicacy would otherwise have prevented
his making public; and, in fact, compelled him to lay
bare the whole system of his administration, with a
minuteness which, under any other circumstances, would
hardly have been allowable, but which in his case, under
these circumstances, was an absolute duty.

In those distant regions, where the means of communi-
cation with Europe are few and uncertain, and where,
even on the spot, the intervals which elapse between the
dispatch of letters and the receipt of answers are often of
great duration, it requires a long period before such mis-
understandings are cleared up. Nevertheless, the clouds
which at first threatened to obscure Mr. Baffles' hard-
earned renown gradually cleared off; and, one by one,
his enemies, if, indeed, he ever really had enemies, gra-

CHARGES AGAINST MR. RAFFLES. 211

dually admitted, not only the purity of all his motives and
conduct, but perceived and acknowledged the sagacity of
his public measures. So irresistible, indeed, was the
force of trulii, as exemplified on this occasion, and so uni-
versal its effect in Mr. Baffles' favour, that there seems no
reason to doubt, had General GiUespie not fallen into an
honourable and early grave, he, as well as others, would
have borne a willing testimony to the unsullied reputation
of his former colleague ; when, upon the minutest acts, as
well as the most extensive measures of his administration,
being exposed to public investigation, all of them were
able to bear the scrutiny.

The following letter will show that, in the midst of the
storm of public affairs, Mr. Baffles retained all the kind-
liest affections of private life. It is addressed to the son
of his early friend and protector, the late Mr. Bamsay : —

TO W. B. RAMSAY, ESQ.

<* Buitenzorg, March 2Uty 1814.

" While you are quietly gliding on in the smooth and
sunny stream of private life, it is my lot to be tossed on
boisterous billows, and to be annoyed with all the clouds
and evils which ensue from party spirit.

"Without family pretensions, fortune, or powerful
friends, it has been my lot to obtain the high station
which I now fill ; and I have not been without my due
proportion of envy in consequence.

'' After this, you will not be surprised at what follows.

212 CHARGES AGAINST MR. RAFFLES.

You are aware of the differences which occurred between
me and Major-General Gillespie, and that he, in conse-
quence, applied to be relieved from the military command.
Arriving in Bengal after Lord Minto had left it, he found
the new Governor-General unacquainted with all that had
previously passed, and succeeded, to a certain extent, in
impressing him favourably in his behalf. He was com-
mitted, in the course of some of our differences, by asser-
tions which he had made ; and finding that he had
succeeded in directing the current of public opinion a
good deal against me, he has brought regular charges
against both my administration and character. The
whole are, I thank God, easily to be repelled ; and the
closer the investigation, the purer my conduct will appear.
Lord Minto is frilly aware of the violent faction which has
taken up arms against me, and will defend me in England.
In India I have possession, and a clear character to main-
tain it ; let Satan do his worst. * * »
For myself I will declare, that so far from time and dis-
tance having quenched a single spark of the friendship I
once bore you, I am at this moment more animated with
affection towards you than ever. I think of you, and feel
for you, as I would for a brother ; and the anticipation of
once more meeting with you, brightens the prospect of
my returning to my native country.

" My enemies have said much, and written much ; but,
in the end, truth and honesty must prevail.

- T. S. R."

CHARGES AGAINST MR. RAFFLES. 213

The charges reached Java at a period when Mr.
Raffles was engaged in drawing out his plans for the
change of system which he was about to introduce into
the country. Nothing can more strongly mark the faci-
lity and the despatch with which he replied to them all on
the moment^ than the circumstance of his having at the
time his house filled with company, and that he never
absented himself from the hours of social intercourse, or
neglected his usual and regular routine of business. The
minute which he drew up and recorded on this occasion,
and which, when printed, filled a quarto volume of mode-
rate thickness, is a lasting monument of the powers of his
mind«

It would be foreign to the object of this work, and to
the principle stated in the preface, to enter into a minute
detail of these proceedings ; but the Reader cannot be
otherwise than interested by the perusal of the following
extract from a letter of Mr. Raffles, referring to the period
of General Gillespie's departure from Java, when the dif-
ferences which had occurred between them had seemingly
ceased to exist, and a complete reconciliation had appeared
to take place.

" The reconciliation was brought about by Captain
EUiott. I had no motive for wishing to withhold my
consent; the public interest would, undoubtedly, be bene-
fited by it. My differences of opinion, and the discus-
sions that had arisen in consequence, were before the

214 CHARGES AGAINST MR. RAFFLES.

Supreme Government^ and in no instance had I stated a
personal or private accusation^ or one^ tlie nature of which
was not apparent in my correspondence with the General
himself. As soon^ therefore^ as it was understood that no
reference was to be made to what had passed^ and could
not be altered, I hesitated not to meet the proposal.

" There could be no personal consideration in this mode
of procedure, because, whatever mischief our mutual refer-
ences could produce had already been produced ; the refer-
ences were gone, and could not be ^fecalled. I therefore
confided in the honour of the General as a man and a
soldier, that nothing had passed on his part inconsistent
with our becoming Mends ; concluding that General Gil-
lespie would no more profess a friendship for a man, whom
he had accused of base and corrupt acts, than I would
have condescended to accept the hand of one whom I
knew to have accused me of them.

^^ It is fiirther to be observed, that General Gillespie, in
frequent conversations with me, declared his regret at
what had passed, and his fixed resolve to support the
measures of my administration ; nor was it to me alone
that this was said, it was repeatedly stated to the gentle-
men of my family ; even his last letter contained the same,
imputing to the misrepresentation of some persons about
me the occasions on which we had formerly differed.

" My cause, my honour, my public reputation and pri-
vate character, are now before the Supreme Government.

CHARGES AGAINST MR. RAFFLES. 215

I ask only a patient hearing. Errors in judgment may
be found in the complicated administration with which I
am intrusted ; measures of poUcy depend in a considerable
degree on opinion^ and there may be some difference of
opinion^ perhaps^ with regard to those which have been
adopted by this government; but the accusations against
my moral diaracter must be determined by facts^ and on
this ground I will challenge my accusers to produce any
one act of my government^ in which I have been actuated
by corrupt motives, or guided by views of sinister advan-
tage to myself.

- 1 have thus deUberately discussed the present charges,
and endeavoured to do so without anger or violence, but,
my Lord, my feelings of the injury I have sustained are
not the less acute. I have been denied the means of
knowing the charges until all the influence of a first and
ex parte statement could be exerted, and the current of
public opinion continued to flow unrestrained, until the
reports obtained an unmerited credit from the very want
of contradiction."

When this business was laid before the Court of Direc-
tors, they expressed their decision in the following letter
to the Bengal government : but before this period the fate
of Java had been decided ; its restoration to the Dutch
had been agreed upon, and Java and its dependencies had
ceased to be of any interest to the public authorities of
Great Britain.

216 DECISION OF THE COURT OF DIRECTORS.

'^We have received your letter in this department of
the 8th December, 1815, in which you draw our attention
to your proceedings relative to the charges which were
preferred by the late Major-General Gillespie and Mr.
Blagrave against Mr. Raffles, late Lieutenant-Governor
of Java, and communicated the judgment you have
formed and recorded, as the result of a deliberate investi-
gation of those charges.

^' After a scrupulous examination of all the documents,
both accusatory and exculpatory, connected with tliis im-
portant subject, and an attentive perusal of the minutes
of the Governor-General, and of the other members com-
posing the Council, when it was under consideration, we
tliink it due to Mr. Raffles, to the interests of our service,
and to the cause of truth, explicitly to declare our decided
conviction, that the charges, in as far as they went to im-
peach the moral character of that gentleman, have not only
not been made good, but that they have been disproved,
to an extent which is seldom practicable in a case of
defence.

" It is not our intention now to discuss the expediency
of the leading measures of the administratioli of Java,
while Mr. Raffles presided over the government of the
island. The policy of these measures is not only sepa-
rable from the motives which dictated them, but there are
cogent reasons why they should be kept altogether distinct
and separate on the present occasion.

" Before pronouncing upon the financial operations of

DECISION OF THE COURT OF DIRECTORS. 217

that government, we are desirous of fuller information and
further time to deliberate on their tendency and effects^
as well as on the circumstances under which they were
adopted.

'' Were their unreasonableness, improvidence, and ineffi-
ciency clearly established, this would only indicate error
or defect of judgment, or, at most, incompetence in Mr.
Kaffles for the high and, in many respects^ exceedingly
difficult situation which he filled.

" But the purity, as well as the propriety, of many of
his acts, as Lieutenant-Governor, having been arraigned,
accusations having been lodged against him, which if sub-
stantiated must have proved fatal to his character, and
highly injurious, if not ruinous, to his future prospects in
life, his conduct having been subjected to a regular and
solemn investigation, and this investigation having de-
monstrated to our minds the utter groundlessness of the
charges exhibited against him, in so far as they affected
his honour, we think that he is entitled to all the advan-
tage of this opinion, and of an early and public expression
of it.

" Mr. Edmonstone, in his elaborate and able minute,
has taken so comprehensive and just a view of all the acts
which constituted the grounds of imputation against the
personal character of Mr. Raffles, that it is quite unneces-
sary for us to enter into a detailed scrutiny of the matters,
either of charge or refiitation. On most, if not all, of the
points at issue, we concur with Mr. Edmonstone, both in

218 LETTER TO MR. MARSDEN.

his reasonings and conclusions ; and whatever judgment
may be ultimately passed on the rarious measures of the
late government of Java^ which underwent review in the
course of the investigation into the conduct of its head^
we are satisfied, not merely that they stand exempt from
any sordid or selfish taint, but that they sprung from
motives perfectly correct and laudable."

Mr. Raffles wrote the following letter to Mr. Marsden
about this time, on the various subjects to which his atten-
tion was then directed ; —

TO MR. MARSDEN.

*' Buitenzorg, Jan. 12, 1813.

" My DEAR Sir,

'' I had the pleasure to write to you about six weeks
ago, since which nothing very important has occurred in
this part of the world.

" We still remain without official information respect-
ing the future government of this colony, although the
public opinion seems decided in favour of its being trans-
ferred to the crown.

'' It wUl, I am sure, afford you satisfaction to know
that every thing goes on prosperously; and that the
resources of the colony, during the last year, have frilly
equalled my most sanguine expectations. The unfor^
tunate state of commerce in general, and the distressed
condition of the island, at the period of its capture, have

LETTER TO MR. MARSDEN. 219

been much against ns : but the happiest results have fol-
lowed the decisive blow which I found it necessary to
strike at Mataram ; and the country throughout is in the
most perfect state of tranquillity.

*' Had it not been for the uncertainty which exists
respecting the future government of the island, it was my
intention to have effected an entire new system and settle-
ment of the revenue. The Dutch appear to have been
terribly behindhand in every arrangement of the kind ;
the principal resources of the government were ;*eceived
in kind; and the contingents or quota of the different
Chiefs fixed without reference to their means or ability.

" In the provinces lately transferred to the European
government, the whole of the uncertain revenues col-
lected by the native princes has been reduced to a fixed
land-rent, payable in money half-yearly ; and, if circum-
stances had admitted, I should have carried the same
system through the country. In all changes, however,
some difficulties are in the first instance to be encoun-
tered; and xmless I felt satisfied that I could fuUy
establish the new system before I attempted its adoption,
I might, by a partial interference, hamper and annoy the
government which is permanently to rule over the island.
No exertions are wanting in collecting the most useM
and extensive information; and we are already fer ad-
vanced in a statistical account of each district. You are
aware that we have the advantage of Colonel Mackenzie's
abilities; and that a commission of the best-informed

220 BATAVIAN SOCIETY OF ARTS.

colonists has long been deliberating on the best means
for improving the country, and ameliorating the condition
of the inhabitants. That we are not altogether idle will
be evident, from the honourable notice which Lord Minto
has been pleased to take of our proceedings ; and as his
Lordship's last address to the College of Fort WiUiam
pays so high and gratefiil a tribute to the memory of my
departed friend. Dr. Leyden, I enclose you the Gazette.

" The Juliana takes home a very compact collection of
quadrupeds, birds, and insects, prepared by Dr. Horsfield
for the Oriental Museum at the India House. A large
collection of dried plants is also sent. Any observations
which you may offer on this first attempt will be very
useful.

" In my last letter, I apprised you of the general state
of the Batavian Society of Arts and Sciences, and of my
exertions to revive it. You will now learn with pleasure
that this society is once more in full vigour. The former
regulations were by no means calculated to keep alive a
spirit of inquiry or research ; on the contrary, they seemed
to shut the door against every thing new, as an innova-
tion ; and it therefore became necessary to remould the
constitution. With the celebrated Rudemacher the society
seems to have lived and died; at least, it has been nearly
in a torpid state ever since. The lethargy with which all
the members seemed to be oppressed, when I first started
the subject, gave me but little hopes of success ; and the
jealousy, with which they were apt to look upon any inter-

COLONEL Mackenzie's visit. 221

ference, at first discouraged me ; but a more liberal spirit
has at last prevailed; and> I trusty will soon pervade the
whole body. The new regulations are simple; and, I
think, you will approve of them on a consideration of how
much has been eflFected against prejudice and colonial
notions, which, I am sorry to say, are miserably con-
tracted.

" Colonel Mackenzie has visited Majapahit, and every
part of the island; and a large stone, weighing several
tonsj with a long inscription in ancient characters, has
been brought from the ruins to Sourabaya. The charac-
ters on this stone are, I believe, somewhat different from
those found at Brambana; and there is an old man at
Sumanap who pretends to decypher the character. I
have seen some of his translations of similar inscriptions
in Madura; and they appear to record volcanoes and
battles ; but I must hesitate in offering an opinion, until
I have time to examine the whole personally. While on
the subject of ancient monuments, it will be interesting for
you to know, that we have not failed to take drawings of
all that have been found, at least of the principal. I have
one drawing of the temple at Brambana, representing the
edifice as it originally stood in its most perfect state ; and
it makes a most splendid appearance.

" The undivided and unremitting attention, which the
duties of my present situation require, deprives me of the
time which I should be happy to devote to literary pur-
suits and scientific research ; but I have made very con-

222 REVENUE OF JAVA.

siderable collections; and a few leisure months^ at any
time^ will enable me to put them in some sort of order.
The field is so extensive and untrodden^ that I am cautious
how I venture to form an opinion, or even communicate
information on any particular point.

" I hope it will not be long before the Batavian press
produces a Javanese Vocabulary, with some idea of the
construction of the language. I have at present materials
enough to undertake it ; but I would much rather induce
some abler hand to come forward.

'^ You must excuse the hasty and careless style of this
letter. I am obliged to snatch a moment now and then
from public business to get through it as it is.

'^ As a copy of the Malayan Bible, printed at Batavia,
may form an addition to your library, I have the pleasure
to send you one."

Reference has been already made to the change which
Mr. Raffles introduced, especially with regard to the
revenue in Java ; but, before entering into the details on
this subject, it may be well to state his own opinions of
the country and the people.

'^ Six millions in Java, as many more in its dependen-
cies, established on one of the richest and most fertile
soils in the world, happy in their original institutions,
were subjected to the arbitrary demands of the European
authority to deliver the produce of their soil either gratis^
or at such nominal rates as that authority thought fit to
bestow as a boon, and to give their personal services on

IMPROVED STSTEM OF GOVERNMENT. 223

all occasions of public or private call without any reward
or return whatever, the demand on each district depend-
ing on accident, or the convenience of the local or com-
manding oflScer for the time being. As it affected the
general prosperity of the colony, the system was one
which closed every avenue to general commerce, repressed
every energy, and destroyed every incitement to industry
and improvement. In its results to the European power,
it had reduced the Government to beggary, while it
vitiated and corrupted all its officers, and all its depart-
ments.

'^ Under these circumstances, it was determined to take
a comprehensive view of the revenue and resources of
these possessions, and of the various and important in-
terests involved in them, and to consider whether the
introduction of a system of administration more analogous
to that of our more permanent possessions in India might
not be both advisable and practicable. That it was most
advisable there seemed to be little doubt, for the Dutch
themselves had for many years declared the advantage of
some such change ; their deplorable condition abundantly
proved its absolute necessity, and the result of every
inquiry that was made proved that the interests of all
concerned must be benefited by such an arrangement.

'^ That the existing system was vicious and ruinous all
good men were agreed, commission after commission
having been appointed by the Dutch government, with a
view of effecting a change ; that authority at last came to

224 IMPROVED SYSTEM OF GOVERNMENT.

the resolution that it was impracticable and unsafe : im-
practicable, because the difficulties to be surmounted and
the corruptions to be put down were too formidable to be
opposed ; and unsafe, because it considered that any
attempt to interfere with the existing order of things
amongst the natives would lead to certain disorder and
bloodshed, and endanger the supremacy of the European
power."

Mr. RafHes introduced what is called the village system,
founded upon that of the Hindus ; for though the natives
had from compulsion adopted the religion of their Ma-
homedan conquerors, they were strongly attached to their
ancient Hindu institutions. To accomplish this introduce
tion, he visited each district, in person made arrangements
with the several Chiefs, and in lieu of the contingents and
arbitrary exactions of the European government, esta-
blished a permanent money revenue direct from the land,
which afforded the means of defraying the expenses of
the public establishments with regularity and certainty,
instead of leaving the government dependent on the state
of a foreign market for the irregular and uncertain sale
of its produce. All the ports on the coast were opened
to the general trader, and cultivation and commerce
rapidly improved.

In the judicial department and police, independently of
the regulations for the interior of the country, which
formed part of the revenue and judicial system, essential
reforms were required in the several European courts of

CAPTAIN TRAVERs' ACCOUNT OF MR. RAFFLES. 225

justice established at Batavia^ Samarang^ and Sourabaya ;
Mr. Baffles introduced the trial by jury, and a clear and
simple code was compiled, containing the rules for the
different courts, and instructions for their officers. These
rules were printed in English and Dutch ; they show that
the practice of the Dutch courts was revised and modified
on the mild and just principles of the British constitution ;
and the fact of its continuing in force under the Dutch
government, will be sufficient proof that it was applicable
to the circumstances of the settlement. It would be
needless to dwell on the research, labour, and caution
which such an undertaking required ; those who are ac-
quainted with the difficulties and responsibilities of govern-
ment under ordinary circumstances, will estimate the diffi-
culties and responsibilities of these changes, in the mise-
rable state to which Java had been reduced.

The following extract from the Journal of Captain
Travers describes Mr. Raffles at this period of anxiety
and trouble.

^' At the time Major-General Sir Miles Nightingall
arrived to take command of the troops in Java, Mr.
Raffles was busily engaged in his favourite plan, and
making suitable arrangements for the introduction of an
improved system of internal management, and the es-
tablishment of a land-rental on the island, a measure
which has given to his administration a lustre and widely-
spread fame, which never can be forgotten. The measure
is so ftdly explained, the necessity for its adoption so

VOL. I. Q

226 CAPTAIN TRAVERS* ACCOUNT OF MR. RAFFLES.

clearly pointed out in the public records of government,

that I shall confine myself to the private circumstances

connected with its introduction.

" When first this measure was proposed, it met, if not

with opposition, with at least such a cold and cautious
approval from the members of council, some of whom

spoke from long experience, and a supposed knowledge of
the native character, as would have damped the ardour of
a less zealous mind than Mr. Haffles possessed, and
indeed it was the opinion of almost every Dutchman with
whom he conversed, that such a system would never suc-
ceed, and that the attempt to introduce it would be
attended with very bad consequences. But Mr. Baffles
had formed a very different opinion, founded upon the
soundest principles of reasoning, and with a philanthropy
peculiar to his character, he made himself perfectly ac-
quainted with the reception which such a change of
system would experience generally throughout the island,
and the result justified the opinion he then gave. It was
in 1813 Mr. Raffles first acquainted the council of his
intention to amend the system of land-revenue on the
island, and the minute which he then recorded clearly
and distinctly developes the just and liberal, as well as
very able and enlightened view which he then took of the
subject.

" In obtaining the necessary information to enable him
to frame such a system as, whilst it abolished the vicious
practice hitherto pursued on the island, would strengthen

CAPTAIN TRAVERS' ACCOUNT Ot MR. RAFFLES. 227

the resources of the government, and, by doing away
feudal servitude, encourage industry in the cultivation
and improvement of the land, the greatest exertions were
required on Mr. Raffles' part, and he devoted himself
with his accustomed enthusiasm to the task ; night and
day he worked at it. To satisfy himself upon aU local
points, to obtain personal intercourse and become ac-
quainted with the character of the native Chiefs connected
with, or in any way affected by, this new system, Mr.
Kaffles deemed it advisable to proceed to the eastern
parts of the island, where he remained a considerable
time, and visited every place, often undergoing the greatest
personal exertions and fatigue, which few accompanying
him were able to encounter; indeed, several were sufferers
from the very long journeys he made, riding sometimes
sixty and seventy miles in one day, a fatigue which very
few constitutions are equal to in an Eastern climate. To
give effect to the measure, he was aware that his personal
presence would afford an influence and energy not other-
wise to be obtained, whilst all delay for official reference
would be avoided. He therefore did not return to Bata-
via till he had the satisfaction of seeing the complete suc-
cess of this measure, which gave to his administration the
credit of abolishing the most vicious and barbarous
system, and of introducing one which gave to a most
deserving and industrious population a freedom which
had been hitherto most cruelly withheld from them.
" Mr. Baffles returned to Batavia in good health and

^ I

228 CAPTAIN TRAVERS' ACCOUNT OF MR. RAFFLESf.

high spirits, naturally elated with the complete success of
aU his plans, and finding in General Nightingall a cordial
supporter. I consider that at this period he felt more
enjoyment than at any other during his administration in
Java.

" The most firiendly intercourse subsisted between the
Governor's and General Nightingall's families ; they were
constantly together ; and to the purest feelings of friend-
ship and attachment which General Nightingall felt to-
wards Mr. Raffles, he seemed to add the highest opinion
and admiration of the shining talents and abilities which
he found him to possess. At Buitenzorg the house was
constantly filled with visitors, and I well remember at the
time when Mr. Raffles was drawing up the minute of
council which he recorded on the 11th of February, 1814,
we had a large party at breakfast, dinner, and supper,
from which he never absented himself, but on the con-
trary, was always one of the most animated at table, and
yet contrived to find time sufficient to write that minute,
which in itself would establish him to be a man of con-
siderable ability and acquirement; and this was written
and composed so quickly, that he required three clerks to
keep up and copy what he wrote; so that, in fact, this
minute was written with the greatest possible haste ; Mr.
Raffles' object being to have a copy made and sent home
by a vessel then under despatch in the roads at Batavia,
and this he accomplished.

^'But Mr. Raffles' quickness at composition was re-

CAPTAIN TRAVERS' ACCOUNT OF MR. RAFFLES. 229

markable. He wrote a very fine, clear, legible hand ; and
I have often seen him write a letter at the same time that
he was dictating to two assistants.

" Immediately after recording the minute herein al-
luded to, despatches were received from Bengal, com-
municating to Mr. Baffles the unlooked-for and very
unexpected intelligence of Major-General Gillespie having
presented to the Supreme Government a list of charges
against his administration in Java. These charges were
of a most grave and serious nature ; but Mr. Haffles met
them like an innocent man. On the first perusal of them,
his plan of reply was formed ; and he answered every
charge in the most clear, fiiU, and satisfactory manner, as
will be seen on reference to the book printed at Batavia,
containing these charges and reply. But it is well worthy
of remark, that when Mr. Raffles had finished his an-
swer to the charges, he handed the whole to General
Nightingall to peruse, who having gone through them,
declared that, although (as he declared on his first as-
suming the command of the forces in the island) it was
his fixed intention to have avoided all interference with
past occurrences, and to have kept clear of any differences
which had taken place previous to his arrival ; yet after a
careful perusal of the documents which had been laid
before him, and with a full and firm conviction on his
mind of the entire innocence of Mr. Raffles of all and
every charge brought forward by Major-General Gil-
lespie, he could no longer remain a quiet spectator, and

230 CAPTAIN TRAVERS' ACCOUNT OF MR. RAFFLES.

therefore in the handsomest, because altogether unso-
licitedj manner^ he came forward to offer Mr. Raffles all
the support and assistance in his power to give.

'' Nothing could be more gratifying to Mr. Baffles'
feelings on such an occasion than to have the support of
an officer of General Nightingall's respectable character^
obtained solely by a confidence in the rectitude and purity
of the conduct he adopted since the commencement of his
administration, every 2^t of which was known to, and most
careftdly examined by. General Nightingall previous to
his making this kind and friendly offer; and indeed it
wiQ only require a momentary look at the charges, to feel
convinced of their unfounded nature.

" At the time when these charges were received, and
their reception was a surprise to every person, the Go-
vernment-house at Buitenzorg was quite filled with
strangers. A large party, composed of Dutch and
English, had been invited to witness the performance of
a ptay^ which was got up chiefly by the members of the
Governor's staff During this anxious time, when Mr.
Baffles had so much upon his mind, not a visitor could
perceive the slightest alteration in his manner; he was
the same cheerfrd, animated person they had always found
him ; at dinner, and in the evening, he appeared perfectly
disengaged, and ^nly seemed anxious how best to pro-
mote and encourage the amusement, and contribute to

the happiness and enjoyment of all around him.

'* When the clear and sd,tisfactory reply was drawn out,

CAPTAIN TRAVBIRS' ACCOUNT OF MR. RAFFLES. 231

repelling every charge brought against Mr. Baffles^ a
proposition was made in council, and was recommended
by General Nightingall, that confidential friends should
be sent in charge of copies of these despatches to Bengal
and to England, to meet the ex-parte statements which
were known to be in circulation in both places. Mr.
Assey, then secretary to government, was selected to pro-
ceed to Bengal, and as a vessel was then under despatch
for England, it was deemed advisable to send me in
charge of those despatches, together with a copy of the
charges, and the reply sent to the Supreme Government.
Before the vessel reached England the fate of Java had
been decided; its restoration to the Dutch had been
agreed upon, and consequently Java and its dependencies
ceased to be of any interest to Great Britain."

Before; proceeding to a detail of the effects produced
upon the civil and political situation of Java by the intro-
duction of so entire a change in the government, a view of
those reasons which induced the opinion so strongly urged
by Mr. Baffles may not be unacceptable. Under the
guidance of the enlightened and benevolent views of Lord
Minto, means were adopted to obtain every information,
and to institute that local inquiry, so essential to the suc-
cess of the measures proposed. His Lordship, in his in-
structions on the establishment of the government, ex-
presses himself thus : —

" Contingents of rice, and indeed of other productions,
have been hitherto required of the cultivators by Go-

232 CHANGE IN THE TENURE OF LAND.

vernment at an arbitrary rate. This also is a vicious
system^ to be abandoned as soon as possible. The system
of contingents did not arise from the mere solicitude for
the supply of the people, but was a measure alone of
finance and control, to enable Government to derive a
high revenue from a high price imposed on the consumer,
and to keep the whole body of the people dependent on
its pleasure for subsistence

" I recommend a radical reform in this branch to the
serious and early attention of Government. The prin-
ciple of encouraging industry in the cultivation and im-
provement of land, by creating an interest in the effort
and fruits of that industry, can be expected in Java only
by a fundamental change in the whole system of landed
property and tenure.

" A wide field, but a somewhat distant one, is open to
this great and interesting improvement ; the discussion of
the subject, however, must necessarily be delayed, till the
investigation it requires is more complete. I shall trans-
mit such thoughts as I have entertained, and such hopes
as I have indulged, on this grand object of amelioration;
but I am to request all the information and all the lights
that this island can afford. On this branch nothing must
be done that is not mature, because the exchange is too
extensive to be suddenly or ignorantly attempted. But
fixed and immutable principles of the human character
and of human association, assure me of ultimate, and I
hope not remote success, in views that are consonant with

DUTCH SYSTEM IN JAVA. 233

every motive of action that operates on man, and are
justified by the practice and experience of every flourish-
ing country of the world."

In pursuance of these objects, the first subject which
offered itself to the consideration of Mr. Raffles was as
to the actual right of property, so far as it could be ascer-
tained; it being with him a principle, "that nothing
should be done to injure the existing rights of aiiy class
of the people, or to break down the barriers which pre-
scriptive usage or actual institutions had authorized in
the possession of property."

It appeared, from the most deliberate investigations,
that in Java there existed no actual right of landed pro-
perty between the Sovereign and the cultivator; the
several officers, whether at the heads of districts, divi-
sions, or towns, were nominated by the chief authority,
and removeable at his pleasure. It was not unusual to
find the descendants of those, who had once been high in
office, reduced to a state of poverty among the lowest
classes of society. PoUcy and justice required that some
provision should be made for those actually in office at
the time of the introduction of that change, which would
at once deprive them of all their privileges.

It appeared that, under the late Dutch government,
no communication whatever was held with the people.
Through their Resident, living at the principal town in
the district, all orders were conveyed to the Regent, who
nominated the inferior officers, and from whom the

234 DUTCH SYSTEM IN JAVA.

amount of revenue was received, the mode of collection
remaining in his hands> unchecked by the control of any
legislative measure whatever.

The service of the people was also required by the
officers of the government, without any compensation
being afforded : the example was naturally followed by
the native Chiefs ; and thus were the industry and ener-
gies of a people crushed by a system of feudal service, as
destructive in its operation as repugnant to humanity —
rendering the efforts of the cultivator hopeless to himself
and unproductive to the state. Justice, humanity, bene-
volence, policy, and necessity, called for that change, the
beneficial effects of which were so speedily and so grato-
fully realized.

The Dutch government looked for their revenue only
in their commercial monopoly. The resources of the
eastern districts were sacrificed to the exclusive commerce
of Batavia, the capital; and previous to the administra-
tion of Marshal Daendels the whole amount of monies*
collected from those districts did not exceed 150,000
Spanish dollars per annum (£37,500 at par). Some im-
provements were effected in 1803 by Marshal Daendels,
but the system of monopoly and of farming the pubUc
revenues being permitted to remain, no essential or per-
manent advantage was derived, either to the government
or the people.

At the period of the capture . of Java by the British,
some partial and temporary relief was afforded to the

CHANOB OF THE SYSTEM. 235

poverty of the country, by a large sum of money brought
with the army and circulated in the country. The mili-
tary disbursements of government in cash, the increase of
commerce after the removal of the blockade, together with
the friendly intercourse established with Western India,
contributed to alleviate some portion of the distress : but
as the system of farming the revenue to the Chinese, and
of collecting the rental from the Begents only, excluded
the peasantry from any immediate connexion with govern-
ment, the specie thus circulated from the public treasury
fell into few hands ; the surplus was exported or hoarded,
without benefit to government or advantage to the people.

Removing the barrier which existed to individual in-
dustry, giving to the cul ^ator security for his crops,
abolishing the feudal service and transit duties, and at
the same time affording a Uberal compensation to the
Chiefs and other ofiicers for the loss of that authority, of
which they were in actual possession, formed the leading
features of that change which was, with such unparalleled
celerity and success, introduced by Mr. BafBes.

That no difficulty might arise in the execution of Mr.
Kaffles' well-matured designs, such instructions were
given, conformable to the peculiar circumstances of the
various districts, as precluded almost the possibility of
error on the part of the executive authorities ; although
those authorities were not at all times disposed to concur
in the principles laid down.

The following is an extract from instructions to Mr.

236 INSTRUCTIONS TO RESIDENTS.

Hopkins, who was appointed a commissioner for settling
the revenue in those districts which were transferred from
the Chinese, and similar instructions were circulated to
the other Residents in the eastern districts, as far at least
as local circumstances admitted.

"The internal management of the districts is to be
taken into the hands of government, and^ to be adminis-
tered without the intervention of native authority. The
lands are to be rented for an annual payment in money,
on the foUowing general principles.

" It has been deemed advisable, on the first introduc-
tion of these arrangements, to enter generally into such a
detailed system of management as would include an im-
mediate consideration of the rights and interests of each
individual cultivator ; and in the instructions given in the
other districts, it has been directed that the lands be in
the first instance rented to the chief local authority in each
village or community, whether recognised under the desig-
nation of Petingi, Bakal, Surah, or other title. But as
the state of society and cultivation in the districts lately
held by the Chinese may admit of an exception, and a
more detailed settlement than elsewhere, you are autho-
rized to introduce the same, to such an extent as may
appear safe and practicable, with a due attention to the
prejudices of the people and the tranquillity of the
country.

" The heads of villages or communities being thus con-
sidered, leases are to be granted in the Javanese lan-
guage.

INSTRUCTIONS TO RESIDENTS. 237

" In fixing the amount of rent, you will ascertain, as
far as practicable, the extent of all existing burthens, im-
posts, and services whatever, and endeavour to determine
the amount these have hitherto borne to the produce of
the soil: which amount, after an equitable and liberal
allowance for any oppression hitherto felt, is to form the
basis of the rental to be demanded as the dues of go-
vernment.

"As far as my personal information extends, I am
inclined to consider that these dues may be ffenerallv
commuted, one district with another, for a payment in
money equivalent to about two-fifths of the annual gross
rice produce of the soil.

"That the government and the country may receive
the full benefit of the arrangements now in view, and that
the principle may be clearly defined, it has been resolved
to abolish all internal taxes, contributions, deliveries at
inadequate rates, and forced services, whether to the
European or native authority ; and henceforward, what-
ever produce or labour may be required for the service of
government, is, in every case and without exception, to be
paid for at the current market rate.

'' As the first settlement to be made can only be consi-
dered as preparatory to a more accurate and permanent
arrangement for the assessment of the lands, it is not
deemed advisable that the leases should exceed the
period of one year.

" It being essential and just that a liberal provision

238 INSTRUCTIONS TO RESIDENTS.

should be made for the Begents and other Chiefs^ and
there being no objection to their retaining a certain
portion of land^ the Begent of Passaruwang is to be
allowed lands which will afford him an annual revenue
of 2,000 rl. batto; and an equitable provision, in pro-
portion, is to be made for the Begents of Poegar and
Banjowangy.

^' In order, however, that these appropriations may not
interfere with the general system, these lands are to be
regularly assessed in common with the other lands of the
district, and entered upon the general rent-roll ; but the
rent is to be remitted, and considered as the amount of
the respective pensions or salary of each individual.

'^With these exceptions, and such other as political
reasons may dictate, the whole of the lands are to be
rented out to the Chiefs of the villages, on the principles
already laid down.

^' An entire separation is to be made between the judi-
cial and revenue departments ; and you will, as early as
practicable, and as the existing system may be super-
seded by that now directed, forward a list of such per-
manent establishment of officers, writers, &c.^ for each, as
may be necessary for the efficiency of the police and the
despatch of business.

*' The Begents are, in future, to be considered as the
chief native officers in their respective districts ; but it will
be obvious, that by the new arrangement they must be
effectually deprived of all political or other undue influ-

INSTRUCTIONS TO RESIDENTS. 239

ence : and as the tranquillity of the country is an essential
and necessary object in establishing the new order, it is
presumed they may be most advantageously employed in
the department of police, while it must not be forgotten
that the watchM attention of the Besident must ever be
directed to their conduct in the execution of this duty.

^'On this account, and as compensation for fiirther
emoluments foregone by the introduction of the new sys-
tem, in addition to the advantages derived from the appro-
priation of land already directed, the Begent of Passaru-
wang is to be allowed a salary of 3,000 rl. batto ; and the
Regents of Poegar and Banjowangy in proportion, and to
the extent that their services may be useM or available
under the new arrangements.

^' The whole arrangements now directed are in no way
to interfere with the payment of the contingent, recog-
nition, or other dues to the government or the Begent, up
to the present period, from which date the new organiz-
ation is to be considered as entered upon.

" This, however, being the middle of the Javanese year,
and as inconveniences might result therefrom, in deter-
mining the amount of arrears to be paid on the old
system, it is considered that the line may be equitably
drawn, by fixing the same at one half-year's amount of the
whole, a principle which you will observe in balancing the
accounts of the Begents with government, and to be
attended to in determining the demands to be made by
them on the people.

240 lieutenant-governor's proclamation.

*' That the country may feel the effects of the new sys-
tem immediately, the free exportation of rice and paddy to
every part of Java has been authorized."

The principles thus laid down in these instructions were
fiirther confirmed by the folloAving Proclamation, dated
Batavia, 15th October, 1813 :

" The Honourable the Lieutenant-Governor in Council
has, after the most minute consideration, deemed it advis-
able to establish an improved system of political economy
throughout the island, with the intention of ameliorating
the condition of all its inhabitants, by affording that pro-
tection to individual industry, which will insure to every
class of society the equitable and undisturbed enjoyment
of the fruits of labour ; and while it is confidently expected
that private happiness and public prosperity will be ad-
vanced under the change of system, such alterations and
amendments will be hereafter adopted as experience may
suggest, or the improving habits and manners of the
body of the people may require.

'* The following principles form the basis of the new
arrangements, and are made public for general inform-
ation.

"1. The undue influence and authority of the native
Chiefs have been restricted; but government avails itself
of their services in the important department of the native
police, which wiU be arranged upon fixed principles,
adapted to the habits and original institutions of the
people.

lieutenant-governor's proclamation. 241 I

"A competent provision in lands and in money has
been allotted to such Chiefs; and it therefore becomes
both their duty and their interest to encourage industry,
and to protect the inhabitants.

" 2. The government-lands will be let generally to the
heads of villages, who will be held responsible for the
proper management of such portions of the country as
may be placed under their superintendence and authority.
They will re-let these lands to the cultivators, under cer-
tain restrictions, at such a rate as shall not be found
oppressive ; and all tenants under government will be pro-
tected in their just rights, so long as they shall continue to
perform their correspondent engagements faithfully ; for it
is intended to promote extensive industry, and consequent
improvement, by giving the people an interest in the soil,
and by instituting amongst them an acknowledged claim
to the possession of the lands, that they may be thus
induced to labour for their own profit and advantage.

" 3. The system of vassalage and forced deliveries has
been abolished generally throughout the island; but in
the Batavian and Preangu regencies such a modification
of the former arrangements has been carried into execu-
tion a^ it was found practicable, under existing circum-
stances, to introduce ; and provisionally the Blandong
system wiU be continued to a certain extent in the central
forest districts.

''4. To encourage the cultivation of so important an
article of export as coflFee may become, when the trade of

VOL. I. R

242 LIEUTENANT-GOVERNOR'S PROCLAMATION.

Europe and America may be thrown open to free compe-
tition^ government have stipulated to receive any surplus
quantity of that commodity from the cultivators^ at a rea-
sonable and fixed rate^ when a higher price cannot be
obtained for it in the market.

" 5. To extend free trade and commerce, and to pro-
mote a spirit of enterprise and speculation amongst the
inhabitants, the Bloom Farms have been abolished, the
duties upon the principal articles of export have been
taken off, and it is intended to modify and amend the
Custom-house regulations before the 1st of January. The
toU-gates and transport duties of the interior have been
diminished as much as possible, and in the gradual pro-
gression of improvement they will be finally abolished.

" 6. Every facility will be afforded towards obtaining
teak timber for the construction of small craft, and of such
additional tonnage as, upon the improved system, will be
undoubtedly required.

'' 7. Government have taken upon themselves the ex-
clusive management of the salt department. It appears
that the inhabitants in most parts of the island paid a
very irregular and exorbitant price for this necessary
article of consumption ; while the system adopted by the
farmers was radically vicious, and equally oppressive and
vexatious to the people, as it was detrimental to the imme-
diate interests of government.

*' Such an improved system for the supply of salt will
be immediately adopted as may appear advisable ; and in

FERTILITY OF JAVA. 243

this and every other arrangement, the government pro-
pose the advancement of the interests and the happiness
of the people at large, and the promotion of the public
prosperity of this colony.

''Given at Batavia, this 15th day of October, 1813.
By me, the Lieutenant-Governor of the Island of Java
and its dependencies,

" T. S. Raffles."

" By order of the Honourable the Lieutenant-Governor
in Council,

■

'' C. AssEY, Sec. to Government.
" Council Chamber, Oct. 13, 1813."

European power in Java, previously to the occupation
of the island by the English, appears to have been exer-
cised only to invade and to destroy the property of the
natives.

'' Whoever has viewed the fertile plains of Java," says
Mr. Baffles, in a minute on the introduction of the new
system of government, ''or beheld with astonishment the
surprising efforts of human industry, which have carried
cultivation to the summit of the most stupendous moun-
tains, will be inclined to consider that nothing short of a
permanent interest in the soil could have effected such a
change in the face of the country ; and it ought not to be
forgotten, that anterior to the establishment of the Mahd-
medan religion in Java, the cultivators of the soil were
considered to rank as the first class in the state ; for,

244 EFFECTS OF THE DUTCH SYSTEM OF GOVERNMENT.

according to the institutions of Majopahit, it was ordained,
'that, next to the Sovereign, shall be considered and re-
spected the cultivators of the soil ; they shall be the first
class in the state below the Sovereign ; next to them shall
foUow the other classes ; firsts the artists ; secondly, the
warriors : and thirdly, the merchants.'

'^ Who will not pause for a moment, to contemplate the
peaceful, the beneficent influence of such institutions ? —
The cultivators of the soil shall be the first class ! "

How do we find these wise institutions of Majopahit
supported and protected ? — ^forced servitude — taxes so
numerous as to become difficult of enumeration. Not
one article of produce, manufacture, or consumption,
which passed through the country, but what some tax
was levied upon it, and that too by corrupt and extor-
tionate agents.

In every district a different mode of taxation existed —
and, in general, these taxes were farmed out to Chinese.

The banefiil influence of this system was but too clearly
developed in the debasement of the popular mind, and in
that listless and apathetic feeling which appeared to
characterize the Javanese nation. Whilst the rich and
powerful were living in pampered luxury, the poor pro-
vincials laboured under all the horrors of penury and
want; but blessed with a fipuitful soil and an humble sub-
missive mind, they were enabled to bear up under all
these accumulated deprivations and misfortunes.

The administration of justice in the courts of circuit

EFFECTS OF THE ENGLISH SYSTEM OF GOVERNMENT. 245

par{ook alike of this dreadful intolerance. The jury re-
quired did not exceed five in number, and these were
chosen from a class of men who could have no common
feeUngs — no common rights ; who, being Europeans,
were in no way whatever the equals of the person
tried.

The law was the law of Europe. The jury, under their
best prejudices, were influenced by that law; and its
meanings and penalties were applied to a people who
reasoned in a manner so entirely diflferent, and who often,
for the first time, became acquainted with those laws when
denounced as their victims.

Far diferent were the principles adopted by Mr. Raf-
fles. It was the chief feature in his policy to secure to
the inhabitants, whether Hindus or Mahomedans, the
possession of their own laws, and a trial conformable to
the practice of their own courts ; the experiment was suc-
cessful. A native jury, consisting of an intelligent fore-
man and four others, decided upon the facts ; the law was
then taken down as expounded by the native law-officers,
and the sentence, with the opinion of the judge of circuit,
upon the appHcation of the Dutch and colonial law on the
cases, was forwarded for the modification or confirmation
of the lieutenant-Govemor.

Enough has been said, it is hoped, to convey some idea
of the extent of that change, which the enlarged policy
of its Governor introduced into the island of Java ; and
this portion of his life may be closed with a few observa-

246 EFFECTS OF THE ENGLISH SYSTEM OF GOVERNMENT,

tions of his own upon the effects which the change had
produced, and was in the act of producing.

'' If I look forward," observes Mr. Baffles, " to the
effects of the change of system as it may contribute to the
happiness of the people, the improvement of the country,
and the consequent increase of the public revenue, the
result is incalculable. Let the present wretched state of
the Dutch metropolis of the East be contrasted with the
flourishing state of the British establishments, wherever
they have been formed, and it will speak a volume in
favour of the change. Desolation and ruin would seem
to have tracked the steps of the Dutch power wherever it
has extended ; individual prosperity and national riches
have accumulated under the English. The principles of
government are radically different, and with such expe-
rience before us, can it be a question on which side we
shall rely ?

" The mass of the population, snatched as they are, at
a favourable moment, from the destructive grasp of Ma-
homedan despotism and indefinite exaction, and estab-
lished in the possession of property, to be secured by
impartial justice, administered to them in a simple and
prompt mode, adapted to their peculiar sentiments and
institutions, afford a wide scope to the philosopher as well
the statesman. A new people, still advancing in civiliza-
tion even under the former restraints, with what accele-
rated progress will they not proceed, when their natural
energies have fair play ? It was but a few months ago

LETTER TO LORD MINTO. 247

vrben the lower class of Javanese were apparently lost to
every idea of their own advantage^ governed by apathy,
and almost insensible to the value of property ; so stron^y
prejudiced in favour of their Chiefs, so simple and so
unenlightened, that the least breath of disaffection could
blow up the flames of rebellion. Mere machines in the
hands of designing artifice, they could be rendered sub-
servient to promote the views of ambition, or the frenzy
of religious fanaticism. They looked not up to the supe^
rior power, but to the intermediate authority : they knew
little of the European character, and Europeans were still
less acquainted with their habits and customs. The
former government had seldom consulted the advance-
ment of their interests, and the result was what might
have been anticipated.

" On the part of the Javanese I am justified in assert-
ing, that they feel the present interference in favour of
the cultivators of the soil, as a revival of that due con-
sideration of the interests of this important class of the
community, which has not existed since the days of Majo-
pahit ; and I have the satisfaction to beheve, that nothing
will be found to have been done, or to be in progress, but
what will be usefiil, and a necessary preliminary to any
more permanent or approved system which may be ordered,
and which may have for its object justice for individuals,
the improvement of mankind, and the prosperity of the
government, founded on the mutual advantages of the
people."

248 LETTER TO LORD MINTO.

'' I have said so much on the effects of the change^ and
they are so obvious on general principles^ that I should
but intrude on your time by enlarging upon them here.
I cannot but look upon the accomplishment of this under-
taking as the most conspicuous and important under my
administration ; and in its success or otherwise I am wil-
ling to stand or fall. I need not tell your Lordship, that
while it was in agitation I had many an uneasy hour, and
I suffered no small share of mental anxiety and bodily
fatigue while it was in progress : but now that it has been
happily accomplished I am amply repaid for all. It was
my lot personally to superintend the settlement in every
district ; the necessity of that personal superintendence
obliged me to leave Batavia at three several times, and
during the last to be absent for three months from the
capital ; but my immediate presence in the different parts
of the island could alone have concluded the settlement in
so short a period, and it has had the advantage of ren-
dering me intimately acquainted with every thing. I
have been able to judge for myself throughout, and al-
though I have not failed to avail myself of all the talent
and experience I could find, I may safely say that I have
in no case decided without a conviction brought home to
my own mind that I was right.

. '' The arrangements for the interior of the country
being completed, my next object will be to simplify and
modify the unwieldy establishments of the towns, particu-
larly those in Batavia.

LETTER TO LORD MINTO. 249

'' I have gone on as long as it was possible from day to
day in the expectation of a change of government^ but I
shall not feel myself satisfied in longer delaying those
radical reforms^ so essential for the health and character
of our government. Much odium has already attached
from the continuance of the Dutch institutions so long,
and I owe it to my own character, and to your Lordship,
to render my administration ' not only without fear, but
without reproach.'

" I consider them as now fairly before an impartial
judge. I shall, unless otherwise directed by a superior
authority, continue to be guided by the principles which I
have laid down, and which have appeared to me, after the
most deliberate consideration, to be just and right.

" I am happy to inform your Lordship that Banca
thrives weU under the administration of Captain A'Court.
A report upon the island by Dr. Horsfield will be sent to
the Court of Directors by this opportunity, accompanied
by specimens of the mineralogy of the island.

'^ The intercourse with Japan has been opened, and we
have received a very advantageous return in copper and
camphor. I look forward to the possibility of establishing
a permanent British interest in that quarter ; but I will
reserve this subject for another letter.

'^ I am, &c. &c.

" T. S. R."

250 LETTER TO SIR HUGH INOLIS.

EXTRACT OF A PRIVATE LETTER FROM MR. RAFFLES TO THE

LATE SIR HUGH INGLIS.

" Feb. 13, 1814.
« ♦ * ♦ ♦

" Whatever may be the eventual fate of Java^ whether
it is decided that the colony be attached to the Company's
possessions^ or even given up at a peace to a foreign
power (which God forbid), the inhabitants of Java will
have the happiness to bless the day which placed them
under such a system of government.

*' I trust that the subject will receive an indulgent con-
sideration ; and that I may be honoured with the Court's
instructions for my fixture guidance.

" In every reference which has latterly been made to
the Supreme Government, a hesitation in forming an
opinion for the guidance of this government ha« been
evinced, arising from the uncertain and provisional tenure
of the government as it now stands ; and it is possible
that the same hesitation may still exist with regard to the
two great questions now submitted, and it is on this
account particularly that I am induced to seek early
instructions from Europe.

*' I have been forced to act, in every measure of im-
portance, on my own responsibility, not from the superior
authorities being ignorant of the real interests of the
colony, but from a hesitation, on their part, to involve
themselves with the government which might be finally
fixed.

TRANSFER OP JAVA TO THE DUTCH. 251

'' I have invariably invited and courted the commands
of the superior authorities on questions which I considered
of moment; and necessity alone^ and the conviction that
the favourable moment for action might otherwise be lost^
has iaduced me to act expressly &om my own judgment.
Those only who have been in similar cases^ can feel the
weight of responsibility which attaches."

Mr. Baffles was anxious to diffuse the blessings of free-
dom throughout the whole of the varied populations under
his charge; and^ as the British Parliament had at this
time passed an act^ which declared the slave-trade to be
felony^ he established it as a colonial law : and it continues
in force to this day, since it cannot be repealed without
express authority from the mother-country.

The leading inhabitants possessing slaves, concurred
with him in his efforts to abolish this dreadful evil through-
out the Dutch possessions, the whole of the slaves in the
Island were registered, according to the forms of the
West India Islands,— with the view of giving them their
liberty. The Bengal authorities, however, refused their
sanction, because, as they alleged, it had not been deter-
mined whether the government of Java was to be perma-
nently administered by the King, or by the Company.

Soon after this determination was received, the face of
pubUc affairs entirely changed in Europe; the Dutch
colonies were to be restored without reserve, or condition
in favour of this unfortunate class of beings. As a last
struggle in their behalf, Mr. Baffles effected the esta-

252 TRANSFER OF JAVA TO THE DUTCH.

blishment of* a society termed the ''Java Benevolent
Society," in the hope of interesting in this effort those
who succeeded him.

In a letter to Lord Minto, dated July 2, 1814, Mr.
Raffles, referring to the transfer of the Island to the
Dutch, says, " If I were to believe that the Javanese were
ever again to be ruled on the former principles of govern-
ment, I shoidd, indeed, quit Java with a heavy heart; but
a brighter prospect is, I hope, before them. Holland is not
only re-established, but I hope renovated ; her Prince has
been educated in the best of all schools — adversity ; and I
wiU hope the people of Java will be as happy, if not
happier, under the Dutch than under the English. I
say happier, because Java will, in importance, be more to«
Holland than she could ever be to England ; and the at-
tention bestowed by the one country must naturally be
greater than that likely to be afforded by the other.

'' Mr. Muntinge has often reminded me that, when con-
versing with your Lordship on the judicial regulations^
you observed, it was not certain whether England would
retain permanent possession in Java ; but in the mean time
let Its do ds much good as we can. This we have done,
and whatever change may take place, the recollection can
never be unpleasing."

Mr. Baffles had long considered an intercourse with
Japan an object of great importance to the English nation.
The peculiarity of the China trade — the monopoly of the
tea — and the uncertainty with which it was attended, made

TRADE WITH JAPAN. 253

him. desirous of opening the trade with Japan to the Bri-
tish merchant. To establish a British Factory in Japan,
and fiimish a population of not less than twenty-five
miUions with the staple commodities, and with the manu-
factures of Great Britain, was in itself a great national
object ; but it was of more particular consideration from
its relative importance to China, and the apparent facility
of eventually superseding the commerce which exists be-
tween that country and Japan.

From the year 1611, when the Dutch established com-
mercial relations with Japan, till 1671, (a period of sixty
years,) their speculations were unrestricted, and their
profits enormous. This they call their golden age of
trade; they opened a mine of wealth, and they thought it
inexhaustible, as weU as easily wrought. In 1640, the
Company obtained a return in gold which yielded a profit
of upwards of a million of guilders. For some time pre-
vious to 1663, they procured a return of silver to the ex-
tent of two hundred chests, of one hundred pounds each,
and it was suggested that it would be desirable for as
many chests of gold of the same weight to be sent in
future. These gold and silver ages of Japan commerce
passed away, and in the latter part of the seventeenth
century commenced what the Dutch called its brazen age,
that is, its export in copper, which has ever since continued
the staple of the Japan market. Mr. BaiHes resolved,
therefore, to send a mission for the purpose of transferring
to the British government the trade exclusively enjoyed

254 MISSION TO JAPAN.

by the Dutch (but which even with them was confined to
two annual ships from the port of Batavia, and this had
ceased four years), and for opening to the manufacturers
of Great Britain the supply of that extensive empire, in
exchange for the valuable commodities that might be re-
ceived in return.

The limited extent of the trade latterly carried on by the
Dutch was owing, in no trifling degree, to the conduct of
their officers, in sacrificing the public interest to a regard
for their own private emolument, which was effectually
consulted by narrowing the trade : as on that contracted
footing, their means of advantage bore a greater proportion
to the whole extent, and the smaller number of officers
required in conducting it, afforded them every advantage
of concealment.

At such a distance from control, and himself the channel
of communication to his superiors, the Dutch Resident, in
common with the other pubUc officers of the Dutch govern-
ment, receiving but a very limited salary, was left to his
own discretion to improve the advantage, of whatever
nature, his place could be made to yield him, a situation
little calculated to command or obtain respect; and the
spectacle of the representative of his nation, scrambling for
every petty advantage, degraded the character of his
countrymen in the eyes of the Japanese, endowed as they
are with no common share of intelligence and discern-
ment.

CHAPTER VIII.

Domestic evictions — Tour of the Island for the benefit of his health
— Native companions — Malay character — Origin of their race —
Their literature — Civilization— The Moluccas— Celebes — Expe-
dition to Bali and Macasar — People of Bali — Casts — Funeral
ceremonies — Wives burning — Account of eruption of Tomboro
mountain — Prospects of the Restoration of Java to the Dutch —
Letter to Lord Buckingham on advantages of retaining it — Value
of the Moluccas — Banca — Character of the East insular tribes —
New government proposed for Java — Merits of the individuals
employed — His own labours — Javanese language — Ancient sculp-
ture and remains — Intention to write the History of Java — Review
of his administration in Java — Close of it.

At this period (1815) it pleased God to deprive Mr. Eaffles
of some of his nearest and dearest connexions *, as well
as of many of his earliest and most intimate friends ; and
whilst he was mourning the death of these^ he heard^ to use
his own words, '^ that Lord Minto was snatched away from
the embraces of his friends and family, at the very moment
he was to receive the only reward which in this world
could recompense his past labours — a calm and placid
recollection of the successful career he had run." To an
ardent enthusiastic mind, warmly alive to the brightest

* Death of Mrs. Raffles. Mr. Raffles married, in the year 1^05,
the widow of W, Fancourt, Esq., of Lanark, North Britain.

256 NATIVE COMPANIONS.

feelings of friendship, and delighting in all the closer ties
of domestic life, such a rapid succession of melancholy
events, added to the anxiety and uncertainty of pubUc
duty, was most trying; and even Mr. Raffles' buoyant
spirit yielded to the pressure. For a long time it was
feared that his life would fall a sacrifice to the keenness of
his feelings. The moment he was able to attend to any
business, he was recommended to make an excursion over
the Island, in the hope that change of scene would dis-
pel the weight of grief with which he seemed to be
overwhelmed.

During this tour he found emplojrment for his active
mind in visiting aU the remains of antiquity in the country
and collecting information connected with its early history,
with which Europeans were previously unacquainted.
These materials were at a future period published in his
History of Java.

But though his mind was thus occupied, his health
derived no material advantage from the journey. It was
thought advisable that he should leave Buitenzorg, and
remove to Ciceroa, a more elevated situation. He took
with him several of his staff, and a party of natives,
whose good sense and intelligence had attracted his notice,
and whom he had brought with him from tl&e eastern part
of the Island.

With these last he passed the greater part of every
morning and evening in reading and translating, with the
greatest rapidity and ease, the different legends witli

MALAY CHARACTER. 257

which they furnished him, particularly the Brata Yudha.
His translation of this singular and curious poem will be
found in his History of Java. It was a work requiring
considerable labour and time ; but it was a common re-
mark with him, that if a man were fuUy and seriously
determined on accomplishing any undertaking within
human power at all, he would succeed by diligence and
attention. At this time he rose early, and commenced
business before breakfast ; immediately after this he went
through the official duties of the day ; after which he
devoted the remainder of the morning, till dinner-time, to
the natives who were living with him. He dined at four
o'clock, and took a walk for the sake of his health in the
evening ; and, until he retired to rest, he was occupied in
reading, translating, and compiling. But his strength
and health did not return, perhaps from his not being
able to amuse his mind without over-exertion and too
much application.

The following are extracts of letters which he wrote at
this period : —

TO MR. MARSDEN FROM MR. RAFFLES.

** January Ist, 1815.

" My dear Sir,

Hfi * * :(: 4:

^' The Malays are a people by no means far advanced
in civilization; nor in their traditions, regarding their
origin, do they trace back to a far distant date. In
common with other nations in a similar state of civiliza-

VOL. I. s

2«58 MALAY CHARACTER.

tion, their ideas may not be very numerous^ nor their
abstract notions very correct; but their meaning and
their attention to passing events are remarkable. Their
generally wandering and predatory life induces them to
follow the fortune of a favourite Chiefs and to form them-
selves into a variety of separate clans. They may not be
inaptly compared^ as far as their habits and notions go^ to
some of the borderers in North Britain^ not many cen-
turies ago. The traditions regarding their early history
are far less blended with the marvellous than the mighty
feats of Fingal ; and if in their attempts to account for
their origin^ we find a mixture of mythological fable^ this
surely is not of itself sufficient to invalidate what may
otherwise be considered as matter of fact.

** In relating any event which has recently passed, a
Malay is always peculiarly simple and clear. The follow-
ing character of a Malay^ as a man^ will be found tolerably
correct : —

*' ' The Malay, living in a country where nature grants
(almost without labour) all his wants, is so indolent, that
when he has rice> nothing will induce him to work. Ac-
customed to wear arms from his infancy, to rely on his
own prowess for safety, and to dread that of his asso-
ciates^ he is the most correctly polite of all savages, and
not subject to those starts of passion so common to more
civilized nations. But with all his forbearance, he is
feelingly alive to insult; submits with a bad grace to the
forms to which, in a civilized life, he finds himself obliged

MALAY CHARACTER. 259

to conform ; and when these are either numerous or en-
forced with supercilious contumely, or the delays of office,
he flies to the woods, where, with a little rice boiled in a
bamboo, eaten with sprouts of the surrounding trees as a
leaf, he feels he is free,

" ^ Example wiU gradually generate wants ; and wants,
industry, and a sense of safety supersede the use of arms,
and generate other manners.

^' ' That strong predilection which has been observed in
the natives of the Malay peninsula and surrounding coun-
tries, for the EngUsh, will soon cease on their more inti-
mate connexion, if treated with the contumely common in
India. This results from the independent spirit of the
people, who value that independence beyond any con-
sideration of advantage, if accompanied with what they
deem insult.

" ^ The consequence of such behaviour is first felt by
individuals, who interest their famiUes, a number of &mi-
lies interest a clan, a number of clans a nation, and in
their revenges they await with patience for years, when
they seldom fail to retaliate, and that often on the in-
nocent.

*' ' As a scholar, it is allowed that the onlyknowledge of
which he is inclined to boast is derived from the Arabs.
That their literary compositions should bear the stamp of
Mahomedan direction will, therefor^, not be surprising ;
but it will be observed, that in poetry, and in every essay
from the heart, allusion is only made to natural objects,

•'

260 MALAY CHARACTER.

and the earlier fables of Hindu mythology ; while in his-
torical and dry compositions of the head, these more
natural feelings usually give way to Mahomedan notions.
This distinction is easily discernible by any person in the
least acquainted with Malayan literature, for literature I
must call it.

" ' To prove that the traditions and historical notices of
the Malays are not altogether devoid of interest, would
require little more than the publication of a fair trans-
lation of some of their more popular performances. I
hope, at no very distant date, some of these may appear.

*' ' The Indian islands appear to have been very fertile
in alphabets ; they are all, vnih the exception of the cha-
racters now used by the Malays, of Hindu origin: It was
long the idea that Sumatra was the Tapro Bana of the
ancients.

" ' The general opinion entertained regarding the origin
of the different native establishments in the Indian Ar-
chipelago, and which is supported by tradition and native
history, and by the traces of character, language, and
habits discernible among the different nations at the
present day, is, that the Indian islands were first peopled
from the continent of Asia; and the country lying be-
tween the Gulf of Siam and China was, in all probability,
the main-land from whence the first settlers emigrated.

" * This probability is supported by the contiguity of
this part of the continent to the Islands ; its extensive
population ; the intimate connexion which appears in the

OHIGIN OF THE MALAY NATIONS. 261

earliest time to have existed between the principal states
of the Archipelago and the countries of Siam, Laos^ and
Champa ; the similarity which still exists in many of the
customs and usages^ and in the language of the less civi-
lized tribes in the Eastern Seas.

" ' At what period this emigration first tookp lace, is at
present beyond rational conjecture ; but a more intimate
acquaintance with the Eastern Peninsula of India may
hereafter throw some light upon the subject.

'^ * If the original inhabitants are thus admitted to have
issued from this part of the Continent, it will be no diffi-
cult matter to account for the resemblance of the Malay
to the Tartar, and the similarity which is found to exist
in all the genuine languages of the Islands.

" ' The next point is to trace from whence those rude
and savage tribes received their first rudiments of civiliza-
tion ; whether from Egypt or the colonies established by
that power, or at a subsequent period from an Indian
country, may be a matter of doubt, but that they were
early visited by traders from the west of India seems esta-
blished on incontrovertible evidence.

" ' The Javanese annals do not trace the first coming of
the people from Western India much beyond a thousand
years back, but tradition justifies us in believing, that,
long before Java was civilized, the inhabitants of the more
Eastern Islands, and particularly the Moluccas, had con-
siderably emerged from a state of barbarism. This tra-
dition is strongly confirmed by the probability that the

262 ORIGIN OF THE MALAY NATIONS. !

rich productions of the Spice Islands would have been the
first to excite the cupidity of Indian traders^ in the same
manner as they were subsequently the first to attract the
attention of European speculators $ and by the circum-
stance of the acknowledged antiquity and superiority,
even at this day, of the language spoken in the Moluccas.

" ' It is an extraordinary fact, that while the question
regarding the country from whence the Malayan tribes
first issued should be confined almost exclusively to
Sumatra and the Peninsula of Malacca, the highest Malay
is admitted to be spoken in the Moluccas ; iii proof of
this fact, it is only necessary to refer to the Malayan
version of the Scriptures, printed by the Dutch govern-
ment, which is universally allowed to be composed in the
best language, and in the language of the Moluccas, but
to be scarcely intelligible to ordinary readers belonging to
the more Western Isleis.

" ' '^Tien the intercourse between Western India and
the Eastern Islands declined, or when it was first replaced
by the traders from Arabia, we are not correctly informed.

" ' In Java the Indians would appear to have established
their principal colony: but traces of their communications
with the other islands may be easily found, particularly in
Sumatra, and in the Celebes, where the written characters
now in use bear the evident stamp of Sanscrit origin.
From this intimate connexion between Western India
and all the islands of the Archipelago, we may easily
account for the extensive introduction of Sanscrit terms

ORIGIN OP THE MALAYAN NAME. 263

into the languages of the Islanders> and to the establish-
ment of the earliest independent states of which tradition
makes mention.

*'* Thus the sovereignties of the Moluccas, of Celebes, of
Java, and of Sumatra, may have been first established,
while colonies from these, in process of time, extended
the habits of civilization to the coasts of Borneo, the ad-
jacent islands, and the Peninsula of Malacca.

'' ' Before the Eastern Seas were visited by European
navigators, the Moluccas had fallen under the sway of the
Chieftains of Celebes, and the people had lost much of
that importance of character for which in earlier times
they had been distinguished. Yet there is reason to
believe that many of the petty states in the Eastern part
of the Archipelago and in the South Seas were first planted
by colonies from the Moluccas.

" ' But it was principally from the Island of Celebes at a
subsequent period that colonies were thrown out : these
peculiar and enterprising people appear to have extended
their influence at one period, so as to have included
within the range of their authority the Philippines on one
side, and the countries in the Straits of Malacca on the
other. Acheen and the Peninsula of Malacca were early
visited by adventurers from Celebes ; and it was in one
of these distant expeditions that the people of Celebes
are said to have established the kingdom of Menangkabu
in Sumatra, and to have given the designation of Malaya
to the people now so called.

264 MALAYAN LANGUAGES.

" ' The people of Celebes have a tradition that when
their celebrated Chief, Sawira Geding, was exploring the
Western countries, he put into one of the rivers in Suma-
tra, where a considerable part of his followers deserted
him, and running into the interior, connected themselves
with the people of the country, and established thq king-
dom of Menangkabu. These people were, for the most
part, of the lowest class, employed by Sawira Geding in
cutting fire-wood and procuring water for his fleet, and
are represented by him to have been captives from the
Moluccas, or savages from the interior of Celebes, and
have the term Malay, from Mala, to bring, and aya,
wood: Malaya, a wood-bringer, or as we should say a
wood-cutter, and to this day the people of Celebes look
down with the greatest contempt on a Malaya, and are in
the habit of repeating the origin of the name.

" * The people of Celebes have from time immemorial
been distinguished among the Eastern nations for their
spirit in commerce, in maritime enterprise, at a period
when the more peaceable inhabitants of Java were dili-
gently cultivating the soil, and confining their views to
domestic concerns. This enterprising people will be
found to have established themselves in almost every
other part of the Archipelago.

" ' The tradition above noticed, regarding the origin of
the Malays, is supported by the very great similarity of
languag<^> of features, of character, of dress, and of habits*
as observable at the present day • the Malay resembles

MALAYAN LANGUAGES. 265

the inhabitant of Celebes very closely, both in his features,
and form, in his moral character, his dress, and his occu-
pations ; but in every thing he is his inferior — a lower
caste of the same character and people.

" ' It was probably during this period, that the Malay
countries first imbibed that portion of Javanese literature
which is to be found in their books ; but the principal ac-
cession which the Malay and other languages derived from
the Sanscrit, was in all probability received direct at a
much earlier date ; and this supposition will account for
the Sanscrit words which are used by the Malays being
in some instances much purer than those forming part of
the Javanese language.

" ' The higher language of Java is almost entirely Sans-
crit ; but the termination of the words would appear in
many instances to have assumed an arbitrary form. In
the Malayan language, the Sanscrit words are not subject
to this arbitrary or peculiar form, and when words of this
description, of which there are many, are engrafted on the
Malayan, the Malays invariable term them B'husa Java,
or the Javanese language.

'' ' At the period when the influence of Java was thus
extending itself over the Archipelago, it was arrested in
its progress by the rapid establishment of the religion of
Mahomet, and Java itself had scarcely recovered from the
shock of conversion to this faith, when the Europeans
found their way round the Cape of Good Hope.

** ' To bring forward all the evidence that could be ad-

266 EXPEDITION TO BALI AND MACASAR.

duced in support of the above general conclusions would
swell this/ &c. &c. * * * * * *

" I have lately sent an expedition under General Night-
ingall, to Bali and Macasar; the information obtamed
from Bali is briefly as follows : — The natives are divided
into four castes^ Bramana^ Satriga, Wisya, and Sudra.

*' The Bramanas are of two classes Bramana Sava^ and
Bramana Budu ; the former prevails. The Budus eat of
all food^ even dogs^ and it is said by the Bramanas (their
enemies) that they eat rice off a corpse which has been kept
several months. The Bramanas do not perform public
religious offices, the Sudras have charge of the temples;
there are rude images among them ; and in these temples
they worship chiefly tutelar deities of places ; a Bramana
is respected according to his age and learning, he cannot
eat from the hands of a younger. The Bramana does not
worship idols. They say the four castes issued from the
mouth, breast, belly, and feet of Brahma.

" The Bajahs are Sadrayas or Wisayu ; after death the
corpse is kept a long time, by the higher classes above a
year, by the lower at least two months ; the dead bodies
are preserved by daily frimigation with benzoin, &c. ; they
are then burned, except children who have not shed their
teeth, and persons dying of small-pox, who are buried im-
mediately. The widow of the Sadraya and Wisa3ru classes
generally burns herself with her husband's corpse : this,
however, is voluntary, and not the wives only, but concu-
bines, and female slaves also, sacrificing themselves on

ERUPTION OF THE TOMBORO MOUNTAIN. 267

such occasions. The fether of the present Rajah of Balib-
ing was burned with seventy-four women. It is customary
with some classes to throw the dead bodies into the sea."

Mr. Raffles gives the following account of the eruption
from the Tomboro Mountain, in the Island of Sambawa,
which took place at this time (the 11th and 12th of April,
1815), one of the most violent and extraordinary of such
explosions yet known.

" To preserve an authentic account of the violent and
extraordinary eruption of the Tomboro Mountain on Sam-
bawa, in April last, I required from the several Residents
of districts on this Island a statement of the circumstances
that occurred within their knowledge ; and from their re-
plies the following narrative is collected. It is, perhaps,
incomplete until some further accounts are received of the
immediate efiTects upon the mountain itself; but the pro-
gress is sufficiently known to render interesting a present
account of the phenomenon, which exceeds any one of a
similar description on record. The first explosions were
heard on this Island in the evening of the 5th of April,
they were noticed in every quarter, and continued at
intervals until the following day. The noise was, in the
first instance, almost universally attributed to distant
cannon ; so much so, that a detachment of troops were
marched from Djocjocarta, in the expectation that a neigh-
bouring post was attacked, and along the coast boats
were in two instances dispatched in quest of a supposed
ship in distress.

268 ERUPTION OF THE TOMBORO MOUNTAIN.

** On the following morning, however, a slight fall of
ashes removed all doubt as to the cause of the sound ; and
it is worthy of remark, that as the eruption continued, the.
sound appeared to be so close, that in each district it
seemed near at hand ; it was attributed to an eruption
from the Marapi, the Gunung Kloot or the Gunung
Bromo.

" From the 6th, the sun became obscured ; and it had
every appearance of being enveloped in fog : the wea-
ther was sultry, and the atmosphere close and still : the
sun seemed shorn of its rays, and the general stillness and
pressure of the atmosphere foreboded an earthquake*
This lasted several days, the explosions continued occa-
sionally, but less violent, and less frequently than at first.
Volcanic ashes also began to fall, but in small quantities ;
and so sUghtly as to be hardly perceptible in the western
districts.

" This appearance of the atmosphere remained with little
variation, until the 10th of April, and till then it does not
appear that the volcano attracted much observation, or was
considered of greater importance than those which have oc-
casionally burst forth in Java. But on the evening of the
10th the eruptions were heard more loud, and more fre-
quent from Cheribon eastward ; the air became darkened
by the quantity of falling ashes, and in several situations,
particularly at Solo and Rembang, many said that they
felt a tremulous motion of the earth. It is universally re-
marked in the more eastern districts, that the explosions

ERUPTION OF THE TOMBORO MOUNTAIN. 269

were tremendous, continuing frequently during the 11th,
and of such violence as to shake the houses perceptibly ;
an unusual thick darkness was remarked all the following
night, and the greater part of the next day. At Solo, on
the 12th, at four p. m., objects were not visible at 300
yards distance. At Gresie, and other districts more east-
ward, it was dark as night the greater part of the 12th of
April, and this saturated state of the atmosphere lessened
as the cloud of ashes passed along and discharged itself
on its way. Thus the ashes, which were eight inches deep
at Banyuwangi, were but two in depth at Sumanap, and
still less in Grresie ; and the sun does not seem to have
been actually obscured in any district westward of Sama-
rang.

*^No description of mine, however, can so well express
what happened, as the extracts from the reports at several
places ; the remarks there made are applicable also to all
the other districts, only in a lesser degree, as the same
became more distant from the cause of the phenomena.

EXTRACT OF A LETTER FROM GRESIE.

*^ ' I woke on the morning of the 12th, after what seemed
to be a very long night, and taking my watch to the
lamp, found it to be half-past eight o'clock; I imme-
diately went out, and found a cloud of ashes descending ;
at nine o'clock no day-light ; the layer of ashes on the
terrace before my door at the Kradenan measures one
line in thickness ; ten a. m. a faint glimmering of light can

270 ERUPTION OF THE TOMBORO MOUNTAIN.

now be perceived over-head; half-past ten, can distin-
guish objects fifty yards distant; eleven, a. m. breakfasted
by candle-light, the birds began to chirrup as at the ap-
proach of day ; half-past eleven, can discover the situation
of the sun through a thick cloud of ashes ; one, p. m. found
the layer of ashes one line and a half thick, and measured
in several places with the same results ; three, p. m. the
ashes have increased one-eighth of a line more ; five, p. m.
it is now lighter, but stiU I can neither read nor write
without candle. In travelling through the district on the
13th, the appearances were described with very little vari-
ation from my account ; and I am universally told that no
one remembers, nor does their tradition record, so tre-
mendous an eruption. Some look upon it as typical of a
change, of the re-establishment of the former government ;
others account for it in an easy way, by reference to the
superstitious notions of their legendary tales, and say that
the celebrated Nyai Loroh Kidul has been marrying one
of her children, on which occasion she has been firing
salutes from her supernatural artillery. They call the
ashes the dregs of her ammunition.*

EXTRACT OF A LETTER FROM SUMANAP.

" * On the evening of the 10th the explosions became
very loud; one in particular shook the town, and they
were excessively quick, resembling a heavy cannonade.
Towards evening, next day, the atmosphere thickened so
much, that by four o'clock it was necessary to light

ERUPTION OF THE TOMBORO MOUNTAIN. 271

candles. At about seven^ p. m., of the llth^ the tide
being about ebb^^a rush of water from the bay occasioned
the river to rise four feet^ and it subsided again in about
four minutes ; the bay was much agitated about this time^
and was illuminated from a northerly direction. On the
island of Sahotie^ fire was seen distinctly at a short dis-
tance to the south-east. The uncommon darkness of
this night did not break tiU ten and eleven, a.m., of the
12th, and it could hardly be called day-Ught all day.
Volcanic ashes fell in abundance, and covered the earth
about two inches thick, the trees also were loaded with
them.'

EXTRACT OF A LETTER FROM BANYUWANGI.

" 'At ten, p. M. of the 1st of April, we heard a noise
resembling a cannonade, which lasted, at intervals, till
nine o'clock next day ; it continued at times loud, at others
resembling distant thunder ; but on the night of the 10th,
the explosions became truly tremendous, frequently shak-
ing the earth and sea violently. Towards morning they
again slackened, and continued to lessen gradually till the
14th, when they ceased altogether. On the morning of
the 3rd of April, ashes began to fall like fine snow ; and
in the course of the day they were half-an-inch deep on
the ground. From that time till the 11th the air wa«
constantly impregnated with them to such a degree,
that it was unpleasant to stir out of doors. On the
morning of the 11th, the opposite shore of Bali was

272 ERUPTION OF THE TOMBORO MOUNTAIN.

completely obscured in a dense cloud, which gradually ap-
proached the Java shore, and was dreary and terrific. By
one, p. M., candles were necessary ; by four, p. m., it was
pitch-dark ; and so it continued until two o'clock of the
afternoon of the 12th, ashes continuing to fall abundantly :
they were eight inches in depth at this time. After two
o'clock it began to clear up ; but the sun was not visible
till the 14th, and during this time it was extremely cold.
The ashes continued to fall, but less violently, and the
greatest depth, on the 15th of April, was nine inches.

" ' All reports concur in stating, that so violent and ex-
tensive an eruption has not happened within the memory
of the oldest inhabitants, nor within tradition. They speak
of similar effects in a lesser degree, when an eruption took
place from the volcano of Carang Assum, in Bali, about
seven years ago; and it was at first supposed that this
mountain was the seat of eruption in the present instance.
The Balinese attributed the event to a recent dispute be-
tween the two Bajahs of Baliling, which terminated in the
death of the younger Rajah, by order of his brother.

*^ ' The haziness and heat of the atmosphere, and occa-
sional faU of volcanic ashes, continued until the 14th, or,
in some parts of the island, until the 17th of April : they
were cleared away universally by a heavy fall of rain after
which the atmosphere became clear and more cool ; and it
would seem that this seasonable relief prevented much
injury to the crops, and removed an appearance of epi-
demic disease, which was beginning to prevail. This was

ERUPTION FROM THE TOMBORO MOUNTAIN. 273

especially the case at Batavia, where, for the two or three
days preceding the rain, many persons were attacked with
fever. As it was, however, no material injury was felt
beyond the districts of Banyuwangi. The cultivators
every where took the precaution to shake off the ashes
from the growing paddy as they fell, and the timely rain
removed an apprehension very generally entertained, that
insects would have been generated by the long continuance
of the ashes at the root of the plant. At Rembang, where
the rain did not fall till the 17th, and the ashes had been
considerable, the crops were somewhat injured. In Gresie
the injury was less; but in Banyuwangi and the adjacent
part of the island, on which the cloud of ashes spent its
force, the injury was more extensive : 126 horses and
eighty-six head of cattle also perished, chiefly fi'om want
of forage, during a month from the time of the eruption.

" ' The local efliects of this eruption have been ascer-
tained by Lieutenant Owen PhiUips, who proceeded to
Sumbawa for this purpose, and was charged to distribute
to the sufierers a supply of rice, dispatched by this govern-
ment on hearing of the extreme distress to which the inha-
bitants of Sumbawa had been reduced.

" ' The Noquedah of a Malay prow from Timor had re-
ported that on the 11th of April, while at sea, far distant
from Sumbawa, he was in utter darkness ; that on his
passing the Tomboro Mountain at a distance of five miles,
the lower part of it was in flames, and the upper part
covered with clouds: h^ went on shore for water, and

VOL. I. T

274 ERUPTION FROM THE TOMBORO MOUNTAIN.

found the ground covered with ashes to thfe depth of three
feet, several large prows thrown on the land by a concus-
sion of the sea, and many of the inhabitants dead from
famine. On leaving Sumbawa, he experienced a strong
current to the westward, and feU in with great quantities
of cinders floating on the sea, through which he with diffi-
culty forced his way: he was surrounded by them the
whole of the night of the 12th, and says they formed a
mass of two feet thick, and several miles in extent. This
person states that the volcano of Carang Assam in Bali
was in ^commotion at the same time ; and it appears from
the several reports, that a greater rumbling than usual
was heard in the mountains in the Bembang district, as
weU as in the Gunning Gede in the Preanger Regencies;
but after a strict inquiry, it does not appear that any
simultaneous movement or connexion could be traced on
this occasion along the chain of volcanic mountains
running east and west in Java.'

" The Honourable Company's cruizer, Benares, was at
this time at Macasar, and the following oflicial report,
received from the Commander of this vessel, confirms the
circumstances already related.

^^ ' On the 5th of April, a firing of cannon was heard at
Macasar, continuing at intervals all the afternoon, and
apparently coming from the southward : — towards sun-
set the reports seemed to have approached much nearer,
and sounded like heavy guns, with occasional slight
reports between. Supposing it to be occasioned by

ERUPTION FROM THE TOMBORO MOUNTAIN. 275

pirates^ a detachment of troops was embarked on board
the Honorable Company's cruizer Benares^ and sent in
search of them^ but after examining the neighbouring
Islands^ returned to Macasar on the 8th^ without having
found any cause of the alarm. During the night of the
11th, the firing was again heard, but much lower, and
towards morning the reports were in quick succession,
sometimes Uke three or four guns fired together, and so
heavy that they shook the ship, as they did also the
houses in Fort Botterdam. Some of them seemed so
near, that I sent people to the mast-head to look out for
the flashes, and weighed at day-dawn, proceeding to the
southward to ascertain the cause. The morning of the
12th was extremely dark and lowering, particularly to the
southward, and S.W., the wind light, and from the east-
ward. At eight A.M. it was apparent that some extraor-
dinary occurrence had taken place ; the face of the
heavens to the southward and westward had assumed
!a dark aspect, and it was much darker than before the sun
rose ; as it came nearer it assumed a dusky red appear-
.ance, and spread £aj3t over every part of the heavens; by
ten it was so dark that a ship could hardly be seen a mile
•distaat; by eleven the whole of the heavens were ob-
scured, except a small space near the horizon to the east-
ward, the quarter from which the wind came. The ashes
oiow began to fall in showers^ and the appearance was
altogether truly awM and alarming. By noon the light
that had remained in the eastern part of the horizon dis-

276 ERUPTION FROM THE TOMBORO MOUNTAIN.

appeared, and complete darkness covered the face of day.
This continued so profound during the remainder of the
day, that I never saw any thing to equal it in the darkest
tiight ; it was impossible to see your hand when held up
close to your eyes. The ashes fell without intermission
throughout the night, and were so light and subtile, that
notwithstanding the precaution of spreading awnings fore
•and aft as much as possible, they pervaded every part of
the ship.

'^ ' At six o'clock the next morning it continued as dark
as ever, but began to clear about half-past seven ; and
about eight o'clock objects could be faintly discerned
upon deck. From this time it began to get lighter very
fast.

" ' The appearance of the ship when day-light returned
was most singular ; every part being covered with the
falling matter : it had the appearance of calcined pumice-
stone, nearly the colour of wood-ashes ; it lay in heaps of
a foot in depth in many parts of the deck, and several
tons weight of it must have been thrown overboard ; for
though an impalpable powder or dust when it fell, it was,
when compressed, of considerable weight ; a pint measure
of it weighed twelve ounces and three-quarters: it was
perfectly tasteless, and did not affect the eyes with pain-
fill sensation, had a faint burnt smeU, but nothing like
sulphur : when mixed with water it formed a tenacious
mud difficult to be washed off.

" * By noon of the 12th, the sun made his appearance

ERUPTION FROM THE TOMBORO MOUNTAIN. 277

again^ but very faintly, through the dusky atmosphere ;
the air being still charged with ashes, which continued to
fall lightly all day.

" 'From the 12th to the 15th the atmosphere remained
thick and dusky, the rays of the sun scarce able to pene-
trate through it, with little or no wind the whole time.

" ' On the morning of the 13th left Macasar, and on
the 18th made Sambawa. On approaching the coast,
passed through great quantities of pumice-stone floating
on the sea, which had at first strongly the appearance of
shoals, so much so that I sent a boat to examine one,
which, at the distance of less than a mile, I took for a dry
sand-bank, upwards of three miles in length, with black
rocks in several parts of it. It proved to be a complete
mass of pumice-stone floating on the sea, some inches in
depth, with great numbers of trees and logs, that ap-
peared to be burnt and shivered as if by lightning. The
boat had much difficulty in pulling through it ; and until
we reached the entrance of Bima Bay, the sea was lite-
rally covered with shoals of pumice and floating timber.

'' ^ On the 19th arrived in Bima Bay : in coming to an
anchor grounded on the bank of Bima Town, shoaling
suddenly from eight fathoms; hove off again as the tide
was rising. The anchorage at Bima must have altered
considerably, as where we grounded the Temate cruizer
lay at anchor in six fathoms a few months before. The
shores of the bay had a most dreary appearance, being
entirely covered with ashes.*

278 ERUPTION FROM THE TOMBORO MOUNTAIN.

'' From the account of the Resident of Bima, it appears
that the eruption proceeded from the Tomboro Mountain,
situated about forty miles to the westward of Bima. On
the night of the 11th, he represents the explosions to have
been most terrific, and compares them to the report of a
heavy mortar close to his ear. The darkness commenced
about seven in the morning, and continued twelve hours
longer than it did at Macasar. The fall of ashes was so
heavy as to break the Resident's house in many places,
and render it uninhabitable, as well as many other houses
in the town. The wind was still during the whole time,
but the sea greatly agitated, its waves rolled in upon the
shore, and filled the lower parts of the houses with water
a foot deep. Every prow and boat was forced from the
anchorage and driven on shore, and several large prows are
now lying a considerable distance above high-water-mark«

" ' On the 22d, the Dispatch, country ship, arrived in
the bay from Amboyna. It appears that this vessel had
mistaken a bay to the westward, called Sampo or Sangin
Bay, for Bima, and had gone into it : the Rajah of this
place informed the officer that the whole of the country
was entirely desolated, and the crops destroyed. The
town of Sangin is situated about four or five leagues to
the S. E. of the Tomboro Mountain. The officer found
great difficulty in landing in the bay> a considerable dis-
tance from the shore being completely filled up with
pumice-stones, ashes, and logs of timber : the houses ap-
peared beaten down and covered with ashes.

ERUPTION FROM THE TOMBORO MOUNTAIN. 279

" ' Understanding that messengers had been sent into
the interior, I waited till the evening of the 22nd, and as
they had not then returned, owing, as was supposed, to
having found the country impassable, I left the bay at
eleven o'clock that night, and the next day was off the
Tomboro Mountain : in passing it at the distance of six
miles the summit was not visible, being enveloped in
clouds of smoke and ashes. The sides were smoking in
several places, apparently from lava which had flown down
them not being cooled ; several streams had reached the
sea; a very considerable one to the N.N.W. of the moun-
tain, the course of which was plainly discernible, both
from the black colour of the lava contrasted with the
ashes on each side of it, and the smoke arising from
every part of it. The Tomboro Mountain, in a direct
line from Macasar, is about 217 nautical miles distance.*

^^ It has been ascertained that these eruptions of the
Tomboro Mountain were heard through the whole chain
of the Molucca Islands. The Honourable Company's
cruizer Teignmouth was Ipng at anchor at Temate on
the 5th April; between six and eight p.m., several very
distinct reports like heavy cannon Were heard in the S.W.
quarter, which was supposed to be a ship in the ofiing, in
consequence of which the Resident sent a boat round the
island to ascertain if # was so. The next morning, how-
ever, the boat returned without seeing any vessel in the
of&ng ; and the conclusion then drawn was that it might
be occasioned by the bursting of some volcanic moun-

28(y ERUPTION FROM THE TOMBORO MOUNTAIN.

tain in that quarter. Ternate Island 5° C N. 127°
3(yE.

" The easterly monsoon, however, had at this time dis-
tinctly set in, and consequently the sounds would not be
heard so loudly and distinctly in the Moluccas, as from
the relative distance would otherwise have happened.
They extended, in the opposite direction, to Fort Marl-
bro', and several parts of Sumatra, as appears from the
following extract from thence : —

" * It is an extraordinary fact, that precisely the same
noise (taken by all who heard it to be a cannonade) oc-
curred at several stations along this coast at the same
time, viz., the morning of the 11th April : several gentle-
men heard it in Marlbro', the people from the interior
came down with accounts of it, and those from the higher
Dusuns spoke of a kind of ash-dust which had covered the
herbage and the leaves of the trees. Reports to the same
effect (not mentioning any fall of ashes, however,) were
received from Moco-moco, Laye, Salumah, Manna, Pa-
dang Guchee, Croee, and Semanka. From some of these
stations the hill-people came down armed, to assist against
attacks which they imagined might be made upon the
head factories.'

" It has not appeared that any noise of this kind was
heard at Padang, or much farther vrth than Moco-moco;
I have since been told that the same noise was heard
at Trumon in about 2' 40' N. lat., and at Ayer Bungi
in about 0' 15' N. lat., on or about the 11 th April last*

ERUPTION FROM THE TOMBORO MOUNTAIN. 281

*' From Sumbawa to the port of Sumatra, where the
sound was noticed, is about 970 geographical miles in a
direct Une; from Sumbawa to Temate is a distance of
720 miles ; and the existence of the S. E. monsoon at the
time may account for the difference of distance to which
the sound was heard in the westerly and easterly direc-
tions : the distance, also, to which the cloud of ashes was
carried, so thickly as to produce utter darkness, is clearly
pointed out to have been the island of Celebes, and the
districts of Gresie on Java. The former is 217 nautical
miles distant from the seat of the volcano — the latter in a
direct line more than 300 geographical miles distant.

" I shall conclude this account with an extract of a
letter from Lieutenant Owen Phillips, written from Bima
on the 23rd ultimo. It has been mentioned in a former
part, that on receiving intelligence of the extreme distress
that had been occasioned by this extraordinary event, I
dispatched a supply of rice to their relief, and Lieutenant
Phillips was desired to proceed and adjust the deUvery
thereof, with instructions, at the same time, to ascertain^
as nearly as possible, the local effects of the volcano. His
report is as follows : —

" ' On my trip towards the western part of the island,
I passed through nearly the whole of Dompo, and a con-
siderable part of Bima. The extreme misery to Which
the inhabitants have been reduced is shocking to behold :
there were stiQ on the road-side the remains of several
corpses, and the marks of where many others had beert

282 ERUPTION FROM THE TOMBORO MOUNTAIN.

interred; the villages almost entirely de8erted> and the
houses fallen down^ the surviving inhabitants having dis-
persed in search of food.

*' ' In Dompo^ the sole subsistence of the inhabitants
for some time past has been the heads of the different
species of palm, and the stalks of the papaya and
plantain,

" ' Since the eruption, a violent diarrhoea has prevailed
in Buna, Dompo, and Saugar, which has carried off a
great niimber of people. It k supposed by the natives
to have been caused by drinking water which has been
impregpiated with the ashes ; and horses have also died,
in great numbers, from a sunilar complaint.

" * The Bajah of Saugar came to wait on me at Dompo
on the 3rd inst. The sufferings of the people there
appear, from his account, to be still greater than in
Dompo. The famine has been so severe^ that even one
of his own daughters died from hunger, I presented him
with three coyangs of rice in your name, for which he ap-
peared to be truly grateM.

'^ ' As the Bajah was himself a spectator of the late
eruption, the following account which he gave me, is, per-
haps, more to be depended upon than any other I can
possibly obtain : —

'^ ^ About seven p.m., on the 10th of April, three dis«
tinct columns of flame burst forth, near the top of Tom-
boro Mountain, all of them apparently within the verge of
the crater; and after ascending separately to a very great

ERUPTION FROM THB TOMBORO MOUNTAIN. 283

height^ their tops united in the air in a troubled confused
manner. In a short time the whole mountain next
Saugar appeared like a body of liquid fire extending
itself in every direction.

*' ' The fire and columns of flame continued to rage
with unabated fiiry> until the darkness caused by the
quantity of falling matter obscured it at about eight p.m.
Stones at this time fell very thick at Saugar ; some of
them as large as two fists^ but generally not larger than
walnuts. Between nine and ten p. m. ashes began to fall ;
and soon after a violent whirlwind ensued^ which blew
down nearly every house in the village of Saugar> carry-
ing the tops and light parts along with it. In the part of
Saugar adjoining Tomboro^ its effects were much more
violent^ tearing up by the roots the largest trees^ and
carrying them into the air^ together with men^ houses^
cattle^ and whatever else came within its influence-— (this
will account for the immense number of floating trees seen
at sea). The sea rose nearly twelve feet higher than it
had ever been known to be before, and completely spoiled
the only small spots of rice-lands in Saugar, sweeping
away houses and every thing within its reach.

'' ' The whirlwind lasted about an hour. No explosions
were heard till the whirlwind had ceased, at about eleven
A.M. From midnight till the evening of the 11th they
continued without intermission ; after that, their violence
moderated, and they were only heard at intervals; but
the explosions did not cease entirely until thd 15th of

284 ERUPTION FROM THE TOMBORO MOUNTAIN.

July. The mountain still throws out immense volumes
of smoke, and the natives are apprehensive of another
eruption during the ensuing rainy season.

'' ^ Of the whole of the villages of Tomboro, Jempo,
containing about forty inbabitants, is the only one re-
maining. In Precate, no vestige of a house is left.
Twenty-six of the people who were at Sambawa at the
time are the whole of the population who have escaped.

" ' From the most particular inquiries I have been able
to make, there were certainly not fewer than 12,000 in-
dividuals in Tomboro and Precate at the time of the
eruption.

" * The trees and herbage of every description along
the whole of the north and west sides of the Peninsula
have been completely destroyed, with the exception of a
high point of land near the spot where the village of
Tomboro stood; on it a few trees still remain. In the
night of the eruption, two men and two women, I am in-
formed, escaped to this point, and were saved. I have
sent in search of them, but have not yet been able to get
hold of them ; no person has yet been along the eastern
side of the hill.

" * A messenger who returned yesterday from Sam-
bawa relates that the fall of ashes has been heavier at
Sambawa than on this side the GulC and that an immense
number of people have been starved : they are now part-
ing with their horses and buffaloes for a half or quarter
rupee'a worth of rice or corn. The distress has, however.

LETTKR TO MR. MARSDEN, 285

I trust, been alleviated by this time, as the brig, with
sixty-three coyangs of rice, from Java, arrived there the
day he was leaving it.' "
" Batavia, September 28, 1815."

TO MR. MARSDEN.

'* Buitenzorgt Aug. 6, 1815.
'^ My DEAR Sir,

" I have only time to thank you for your very kind
letter by Captain Travers, and to return you my gratefril
acknowledgments for the warm and steady support which
you have given to my cause. Magna est Veritas et prcB-
valebit.

'* A severe domestic affliction has banished for. a time
the hope I once entertained of an early retirement —
'activity and the cares of public responsibility are now
almost necessary for my existence. I trust, however, that
a few months more will restore that serenity of mind which
will admit of my looking on the past with calmness. You
will see that although I do not like to stand in the way of
the arrangement I have suggested for the government of
this island and its dependencies, I am by no means indif-
ferent or disinclined to act, and to continue to act in any
capacity in which my employment may not injure the
pubUc interests.

" I entreat of you to advocate the cause of Java, if
there is a possibility of its remaining under the British
•protection."

286 LETTER TO W. B. RAMSAY.

TO W. B. RAMSAY, ESQ. FROM MR. RAFFLES.

*' Buitenzorg, Aug. 6th, 1815.

* * Hi * 4t

" I have no idea of returning to Europe while any
thing is to be done hereabout. I am really too tired to
write you fully ; my back aches from sheer hard writing
for the two last days.

'' Pay a little attention to my dear sister Marianne, and
her child, when you can. I am glad Flint has come out
again.

* » » * »

'^ I should wish to remain in the country until a deci-
sion on this reference was known, until time had been
given to my successor in office to appreciate and report
on the character of my administration, and until a suffi-
cient lapse occurred in Europe between the effects of the
stigma passed on my conduct, and the change of opinion
which a subsequent better knowledge of the true state of
things must occasion.'*

The following is as extract of a letter to the Earl of

•

Buddngbanahire : —

'* These Islands, my Lord, are doubtiess the real Ta-
probana of the ancients — the sacked isles of the Hindus !

" Who that has mixed with the East insular tribes,
who that has become in the least acquainted with their
ways of thinking, that will not bear ample testimony that

LETTER TO THE EARL OF BUCKII^GHAMSHiRE. 287

their character is as yet unknown to Europe ? Even their
piracy and deadly creeses which have proved such fertile
sources of abuse and calumny^ have nothing in them to
affiight ; nay, there is something even to admire in them
— ^their piracies are but a proof of their spirit and their
enterprize, and the regulation of good government is
alone wanting to direct this spirit and this enterprize in a
course more consonant with our notions of civilization.
And now, may I ask what was the state of Scotland two
hundred years ago ? In the last prints irom Europe I
observed the particulars of the trial of some unfortunate
people of these islands, who were subsequently executed
for attempting to cut oif the ship. Governor fiaffles, on
her voyage to England. No doubt a general horror was
excited by the atrocity of their conduct ; but if it is con»-
sidered that these men were in all probability cajoled on
board the ship in the expectation of her going only a
short voyage, and within their own latitudes, some allow-
ance may be made for their feelings when they found
themselves deceived, and hurried into a cold, tempestuous,
and bitter climate, of which, judging from their own seas,
they could have formed no previous conception. SufB^-

ing under the acuteness of bodily pain and mental

anguish, thinking on their families and their homes, which
they were daily leaving farther behind, perhaps never to
visit again, and seeing no end to the increase of their
miseries — may not some allowance be made for them ? I
am far from wishing to insinuate discredit or censure on

288 LETTER TO THE EARL OF BUCKINOHAMSHIRE.

the parties connected with this particular instance. I
doubt not that every thing was done that could be done
by the owners and captain ; but I know that, generally
speaking, such is the way that sailors in this country are
•procured for long voyages. If even they were apprised
of the length of their voyage, and promised payment
accordingly, wiU not their case, in some degree, resemble
.that of the first adventurers tp the new world? The
creeses is to the Malay what the practice of duelling is to
European nations. There are certain points in the com-
"position of every man s notions which cannot be regulated
"by courts of law ; the property, the life, the character of
the European is protected by law ; but yet there are some
points, and these are the very points on which all society
hinges, which are not protected. In support of these he
x^ontemns the law which stigmatizes him as a murderer,
3nd the very men who made the laws still say he is right.
-Neither the property, the life, nor the character of the
Malay is secured by law — ^he proudly defends tliem with
his own hand whenever they are endangered. The readi-
.ness with which an injury is thus redressed has a wonder-
ful efiTect in the prevention of injuries; and except in
■warlike enterprize the Malay is seldom known to draw his
criss, unless perhaps in defence of what he considers his
Jionour, The certainty of resentment has produced that
^lrbanity and consideration for the feelings of each other,
that they are habitually well-bred, and if they are to be
termed savages, certainly they are the most polite of all

RESPONSIBILITY OF MR. RAFFLES. 289

savages; but in truth they are very far from being
savages.'*

It is evident from what has been stated^ that during the
whole period of his administration^ Mr. Raffles had con-
stantly been occupied with the varied and extensive duties
of his situation, which had required from him incessant
labour and attention; every thing, in fact, rested upon
himself He was unacquainted, or but slightly acquainted,
with the principles or characters of most of those whom he
had to employ ; he was compelled to instruct, direct, and
confide in all ; and these, untried and unknown, were to
be surrounded by temptations and examples of pecula-
tion^ bribery, and corruption. It is to the honour of the
individuals so employed and so chosen, that, under all
succeeding circumstances, so few were found to fail in their
duty, and so many proved themselves worthy of the confi-
dence reposed in them.

Mr. Raffles was occupied constantly from four in the
morning until eleven and twelve at night ; and the weight
of this heavy duty was much increased by his being under
the necessity of acting entirely upon his own responsi-
bility in all the great measures of his government.

Such a state of anxious uncertainty would have made a
less conscientious person refrain from such constant and
unremitting action ; but it was one of his principles in
public as well as private life, to do good to the utmost of
his power; and in the accomplishment of this object, no

VOL. I. u

290 LETTBR TO WILLIAM BROWN RAMSAY, ES(^.

labour was too severe, no responsibility too burdensome
to be borne.

The deep interest which Mr. Raffles took in the happi-
ness of the Javanese induced him to exert every faculty
of his mind to instruct and improve them ; and this was
to him comparatively easy, even in the pressure of all the
more direct and ordinary business of his station; he
was gifted with a power of such rapid decision, his discri-
mination was so clear, and his arrangements so immediate
and perfect, that he was able to effect more business, of
every kind, than any single person of those around him
could have thought possible. It is stated by some of those
who were in the habit of observing him at this time, that they
have seen him write upwards of twenty sheets of minutes,
orders, &c. &c. without any correction or even alteration
being necessary. It has already been stated, that he re-
quired three clerks to copy and keep up with what he
wrote; and that he frequently dictated to two persons
whilst engaged in writing letters himself.

TO WILLIAM BROWN RAMSAY, ESQ.

** Buitenzorg, October 18, 1815.

* % * ♦ * J|e

"You will be anxious to know my determination as to
proceeding to England ; my character — ^my ftiture happi-
ness — ^require my presence in England. The impression
on my mind is, that I shall quit this country at the close

REVIEW OF THE GOVERNMENT OF JAVA. 291

of 1816 ; but this depends upon circumstances not within
my control. I may go earlier — I may go later. Your
advice will, I think, be for the best, and I am inclined to
concur in it : for here I am ' a lonely man, like one that
has long since been dead ;' and should any thing keep
me away for one year, from friends who I am sure would
be glad to receive me with open arms ! . . . I want leisure
to recover from the eflFects of that weight of responsibility
which has almost weighed me down ; yet I am high and
proud in my own integrity. I thank you for the warmth
and attachment which breathe through every line of your
letter now before me ; it has roused the finest feelings in
my breast ; and in the test of friendship, where is the
heart that would not be glad ?"

Before leaving Java, Mr. Raffles addressed the follow-
ing letter to the Court of Directors :

** Batavia, March 11, 1816.

'^ At the close of an arduous and e^i^n^ive administra-
tion, which will be admitted to have commenced at a mo-
ment of peculiar financial difficulty, and to have been
attended with embarrassments unusual to a new govern-
ment, in consequence of the bankruptcy of the preceding
government, and of a necessity having nevertheless existed
of respecting, in some degree, the forced and imperious
measures to which that government resorted, in order to
carry on their ordinary details ; I am anxious to place in

292 REVIEW OP THE GOVERNMENT OF JAVA.

your possession a view of the present financial state of this
colony. This review I shall founds not on estimates^ but
on ax^tual records ; and I confidently trust it will prove to
the satisfaction of your Honourable Courts that my ideas
on the value and importance of this colony have not been
raised too high^ but that time only was wanting, and a
perseverance in principles of liberal and extended policy,
to render it equal to all the extent that has either been
contemplated or reported.

'^I shall not detain your Honourable Court by any
review of the past financial arrangements adopted at dif-
ferent periods of my administration. . The opinions which
have been passed upon them by the Supreme Government
in India, and the explanations which we considered our-
selves enabled to ofier, are already before your Honour-
able Court; and my letter of the 5th of August, 1815,
will have explained the foundation of our present revenue
and resources, and prepare you to expect that the general
result would be more favourable, since the system of admi-
nistration which it has been my object to introduce into
this island, in accordance with the principles laid down by
the late Earl of Minto, began to have effect.

*' I now request to lay before you further documents,
illustrative of the progressive improvement that has taken
place."

CHAPTER IX.

Mr. Raffles hears he is to be relieved in the Government — Residency
of Bencoolen secured to him — Forced to return to England by ill
health — Arrival of Mr. FendaU — Reception of him — General regret
at Mr. Rqffles" departure — Presentation of plate — Endeavours by a
last memorial to secure justice to the native princes and people —
The objects of their treaties with the English — Objects negleoted
by the English Government — Island restored without conditions to
the Dutch — Embarkation — State of mind on quitting Java — Ex-
tract from Captain Tr avers' Journal during the voyage — St,
Helena — Interview with Buonaparte — Arrival at Falmouth —
Mines in Cornwall— Journey to London,

Mr. Raffles was at Ciceroa when he heard that he was
to be relieved from the charge of the government. Though
the mode in which the intelligence was conveyed was most
unexpected, it did not affect his equanimity and com-
posure.

Lord Minto had secured to him the Residency of Ben-
coolen, as a provision in case Java had been transferred
to the Crown, when of course a Governor and Council
would have been sent out from England. This appoint-
ment was now offered to him, but his health was so im-
paired, his strength so exhausted, that his medical
advisers considered it absolutely necessary for the pre-
servation of his life, that he should proceed to Europe
without delay.

294 ARRIVAL OF MR. FENDALL.

As soon as it was ascertained that Mr. Fendall was
appointed to succeed to the government^ and was actually
on his way to Java, Mr. Raifies determined to leave
Ciceroa, and return to Buitenzorg, in order to be ready
at the shortest notice to proceed to Batavia for the pur-
pose of receiving his successor. He felt himself aggrieved,
but he well knew his being so was in no way attributable
to Mr. Fendall; and he wished to pay the respect and
attention which he thought due to the station that Mr.
Fendall was about to fill. Mr. RafBes was alarmingly
reduced at this time by the joint action of illness, and of
the violent remedies which had been applied; but his
spirits rose superior to his bodily strength, and he could
not be persuaded to allow any personal consideration to
interfere with a public arrangement. He exacted little
himself, but he was most scrupulous in his attention to
others. Accordingly, the moment the report reached
Buitenzorg, that Mr. Fendall had arrived in Batavia
Roads, Mr. Raffles was ready to proceed ; and although
he had been confined to the house for several days before,
he left Buitenzorg at three o'clock in the morning, and
arrived at Ryswick in time to make the necessary arrange-
ments for receiving the new Governor with suitable
honors.

Mr. Raffles introduced Mr. Fendall to aU those who
had been useful whilst employed under his government,
with some private recommendatory tribute of praise, or
some public acknowledgment of their merits. The scene

DEPARTURE OF MR. RAFFLES. 295

was an interesting one^ from the total absence of all selfish
consideration which marked Mr. Raffles' conduct ; he was
entirely absorbed in the desire of promoting the welfare
of others, and if possible, securing to them any advantages
which they might have derived from his presence. The
exertion, however, as may be supposed, was too great for
him in his debilitated state, and at the close of the day he
was obliged to retire. Having previously made every
arrangement, he quitted the Government-house in the
evening for Mr. Cransen's, where he remained until his
embarkation. When it became generally known that Mr.
Baffles was obliged to proceed to England as the only
hope of preserving his life, the European and native inha-
bitants united in expressing their deep regret at his de-
parture, and in acknowledging in the warmest terms their
gratitude for the benefits which he had conferred upon
them during his administration. A magnificent service
of plate was given to him by them on his arrival in Eng-
land ; and his own immediate staff, besides uniting in this
noble gift, presented him with a separate and exclusive
piece of plate, as a testimony of their affection and grati-
tude for the kindness which he had shown to them, and the
interest that he had taken in their welfare.

The delay preparatory to embarkation gave Mr. Fendall
an opportunity of looking into the public proceedings,
and of forming an opinion on the principal acts of the
government. He frankly avowed his approbation of them
all; and without one alteration continued Mr. Raffles'

296 REGRET AT MR. RAFFLES* DEPARTURE.

personal staff in their former situations^ and expressed
his determination to attend to all Mr. Baifies' wishes.

Mr. Raffles did not depart from Java without making
an effort to induce those who succeeded him to secure
justice to the people whom he was leaving. But un-
fortunately his appeal in behalf of those for whose wel-
fare he had so anxiously laboured, was not attended
to ; and the Island was transferred to the Dutch without
one stipulation in favour of the natives, who had in justice
a right to expect that some provisions would have been
made for their interests. The events which followed the
re-occupation of the Island by the Dutch afford a melan-
choly proof of the sad effects of this neglect.

Mr. Raffles engaged his passage in the Ganges, a fine
vessel in Batavia Roads, at that time preparing for
England. Lieutenant-Colonel, then Captain Gamham,
Captain Travers (two of his Aides-de-camp) and Sir
Thomas Sevestre, his medical attendant, with all the dis-
interestedness of devoted zeal and friendship, determined
to accompany him. The natives and Europeans, Dutch
as well as English, evinced a strong feeling of interest
and regret. The inhabitants had experienced, from his
administration, benefits which were fresh in their memory;
the welfare of all had been watched with a parental soli-
citude ; and perhaps no conquered country had ever been
so quickly restored to tranquillity, or so strictly preserved
in quietness and good order as Java, during the period
of Britbh rule. There were also many amongst the

fiMBARKATlON. 297

respectable Dutch inhabitants who attributed, and
perhaps with justice, to Mr. Raffles, the Une of con-
duct adopted by Lord Minto on the first capture of the
Island.

If, in addition to this, it is remembered how warmly he
devoted himself to the improvement of the people, the
information which he collected on every point connected
with the Island, the total ignorance that previously pre-
vailed, the assistance which he rendered to literature, the
zeal with which he promoted all objects of science, it will
be no matter of surprise that he established a name and
character which will not be soon forgotten in the Island
of Java.

On the morning of Mr. Raffles' embarkation, the Roads
of Batavia were filled with boats, crowded with people of
various nations, all anxious to pay the last tribute of
respect within their power to one for whom they enter-
tained the most lively affection. On reaching the vessel,
he found the decks filled with offerings of every descrip-
tion — fruits, flowers, poultry, whatever they thought
would promote his comfort on the voyage. It is impos-
sible to describe the scene which took place when the order
was given to weigh anchor; the people felt that they
had lost the greatest friend whom Java ever possessed ;
and perhaps they anticipated, as too near, their re-
delivery to the Dutch power, and the consequently too
probable revival of the scenes of misgovernment, from
which, under the administration of Mr. Raffles, they had

296 LETTER TO N. B. EDMONSTONB.

been relieved for five years, and ought to have been
relieved for ever.

The following extract of a letter to Mr. Edmonstone at
this time will show the temper of mind in which Mr.
Baffles relinquished his authority.

To N. B. Edmonstone, Esq. (then one of the members of
Supreme Council in Bengal, and now one of the Court of
Directors of the Honourable East India Company,)

" On board the Ganges, off Bantam, March 26, 1816.

" My dear Sir,

" I cannot quit Java without returning you my
warmest acknowledgments for the consideration which
you have always evinced for me, and in particular for the
Idndness and protection with which I am confident you
have endeavoured to shield my public as well as my
private character, in discussions in which both have been
most violently and wantonly attacked.

* ^ Hi ^fi m

" I leave the character of my administration in general \
to be appreciated by my successor; and I look forward
with confidence to a period when it will be proved that I
have not been found wanting in the discharge of the high«
arduous, and responsible trust committed to my care.

4c * 4( « ♦

" My public letter will inform you of the necessity
which drives me to the Cape, and eventually to Europe ;

EXTRACT FROM CAPTAIN TRAVERS' JOURNAL. 299

and unfortunate as this unexpected circumstance must be
considered, I must hope that the necessity of proceeding
to Europe, and of consequently giving up a lucrative em-
ployment, occasioned as it is by an illness brought on by
great exertions, by anxiety, and a sense of injustice, will
not weaken any claims which I may possess on the consi-
deration and justice of the higher authorities.

" Into the hands of Mr. Fendall I have resigned my
charge without reluctance." * * *

An extract from Captain Travers' Journal will give an
account of the voyage : —

" Our voyage commenced under the most favourable
circumstances ; the weather was mUd, the wind fair. On
the third day after leaving Batavia Beads, being entrusted
with the address to Mr. Kaffles from his own immediate
staff, to present to him after our getting out to sea, I
waited upon him in his cabin with it ; and the scene which
ensued was the most distressing I had ever witnessed.
After perusing it, he became so completely overcome as to
be unable to utter a word : but the moment he began to
recover a little, he took up his pen ; and whilst the feeling
and impression was fresh, he wrote the beautiftd and
affectionately-expressed reply, which was afterwards
printed by his friends, and is attached to the addresses
and replies presented on the occasion of his leaving Java.

" The presentation of this address was altogether un-
expected on Mr. Baffles' part; and as it was meant to

300 EXTRACT FROM CAPTAIN TRAVERS' JOURNAL.

convey to him the sentiments of cordial and heartfelt
esteem and affection of those who had the best oppor-
tunity of judging of the spotless integrity and amiable
qualities which shed a lustre over his private life^ as well
as the purity and uprightness of his public conduct^ it was
but natural to suppose that such a testimonial must have
been most gratifying at such a moment^ and he certainly
prized it very highly.

" As we proceeded on our voyage the change of cli-
mate and the pure sea air seemed to be of great service
to Mr. Raffles^ whose general state of health began visibly
to improve. He employed his time on board ship chiefly
in assorting his papers^ for the first part ; and until his
health began to get better^ he read for amusement^ and
paid strict attention to medical advice» and no doubt de-
rived much benefit from so doing.

" As we approached St. Helena^ Mr. Baffles expressed
much anxiety to touch there, in the hope of seeing Buona-
parte ; and Captain Falconer, ever ready to meet the
wishes of one for whom he seemed to entertain the highest
respect and esteem, determined on going there for the
avowed purpose of taking in a fresh supply of water, and
we accordingly made the island at three o'clock a.m. ^ on
the 18th May, 1816; and meeting with no opposition^
notwithstanding our having heard of vessels being sta*
tioned to windward, as well as leeward, of the island, to
speak all vessels as they approached, we stood in, and
actually came close to one of the batteries before we were

EXTRACT FROM CAPTAIN TRAVERS' JOURNAL. 301

discovered ; ^but immediately on being seen we were
brought to, and soon after a boat came off from the Ad-
miral's ship to take charge of the Ganges, inquire into
our wants, and communicate by signal with the flag-ship.

" At this moment all our hopes of seeing Buonaparte,
or indeed of being permitted to land, were destroyed, by
the naval officers who came on board informing us that we
would not be allowed to land ; and as our vessel could be
quickly watered from the flag-ship, no communication with
the shore would be allowed.

" The disappointment occasioned by this intelligence I
never can forget. After so long a voyage, to come within
the reach of shore, and not to be allowed to land, ap-
peared to us, at the moment, to be one of the most dis-
appointing and vexatious occurrences in our lives.

'' Mr. Raffles, who shared with us all our disappoint-
ment, but with more command of himself, endeavoured to
reconcile us to our fate ; and in place of looking from the
deck at a spot which we could not reach, and the sight of
which would only tend to excite our chagrin and annoy-
ance, suggested that we should retire to our cabins, and
commit to paper our feelings at the moment, which would
amuse us during our detention. To this we all assented ; ,
but I believe the only person of the party, who was suf-
ficiently collected to write any thing appropriate, was
Mr. Baffles himself; all the rest entertained a hope
that permission would be granted to land, when the
Admiral knew who was on board, and I had written to

302 EXTRACT FROM CAPTAIN TRAVERS' /OURNAL.

the Secretary by the Lieutenant who had gome from the
flag-ship.

" In this we were not mistaken^ as, in a very short time
after the Lieutenant left us, a signal was made from the
flag-ship to anchor in a particular place, and this was
quickly followed by Colonel Mansel, of the 53rd, and
Captain Le Blanc coming on board, with permission from
the Admiral to land.

" When the boat was close to the Ganges, I went into
Mr. Baffles' cabin to inform him of the circumstance, and
was just in time to save the following verses from destruc-
tion, which he had written as quickly as it was possible to
write, and had not read it over, or corrected a word ; — on
my telling him that we should certainly be allowed to
land, he was just going to destroy the paper, when I
entreated him to allow me to read it, with which he com-
plied, and I immediately copied it verbatim, as it was
written, and returned the original ; but know not whether
Mr. Baffles ever looked at it again, nor did I ever see it

afterwards.

* ^ * * *

*^ On our landing, we were most kindly received by the
Admiral, Sir George Cockbum, who requested us to call
at the town-major's and peruse the garrison orders, to
which he directed our particular attention. After which
we paid our respects to the Governor, Sir Hudson Lowe,
who invited us to dinner, and promised to send horses for
us. We then solicited permission to visit Buonaparte,

EXTRACT FROM CAPTAIN TRAVERS' JOURNAL. 303

which was granted, on condition that during our interview
we were not to address him as Emperor, but simply as
General, and in the event of our being received by Buo-
naparte with his hat on, we were not to continue in con-
versation uncovered ; to all which we willingly assented,
and after passing a very pleasant evening at the Govern-
ment-house, we commenced our journey to visit Buona-
parte immediately after breakfast in the morning. Our
first object was to see Marshal Bertrand, whom we found
in a miserably poor habitation, together with his charming
Countess. The Marshal received us with the easy air of
a well-bred gentleman, and the Countess with great affa-
bility and good humour, contrasting her present abode
with that which she lately occupied in France.

" The Marshal seemed to feel anxious that we should
not be disappointed in the object of our visit, but ex-
pressed some fears, in consequence of his royal master
having signified his intention not to receive any visiters
for some days ; he, however, kindly offered us letters to
Count Las Casas, entreating him to use every exertion to
obtain an interview for us. With this letter we proceeded
to Longwood, and were most kindly and politely received
by Count Las Casas, with whom we enjoyed some very
agreeable conversation.

" On our informing him that we were to leave the
island in the evening, he seemed anxious that his royal
master should see us, and he left us for a short time, and
on returning informed us that the Emperor would dress

304 INTERVIEW WITH BUONAPARTE.

in an hour, and although he could not say for a certainty,
yet he hoped, and thought, he would see us. With this
we took our leave and went to Dead Wood, about a mile
distant, where the 53rd regiment were stationed. Whilst
we were taking refreshment with Colonel Mansel, Mr.
Raffles received a note from Count Las Casas, saying that
the Emperor would see us, and we accordingly returned
to Longwood ; where, before being introduced, we found
this once great man in earnest conversation with Countess
Bertrand, who was walking with him in the garden;
General Gourgaud preceded. Marshal Bertrand, Count
Las Casas, Captain Poniatowsky, and a page followed,
all uncovered. On our arrival being announced, we were
quickly informed that the Emperor would receive us in
the garden ; and Count Las Casas added, that although
it had been the Emperor's intention not to see any person
for some days, yet on being told that it was Mr. Baffles,
late Governor of Java, who wished the interview, he im-
mediately consented to see us.

" On our approaching^ Napoleon turned quickly round
to receive us, and taking off his hat, put it under his arm.
His reception was not only not dignified or gracefrd, but
absolutely vulgar and authoritative. He put a series of
questions to Mr. Baffles in such quick succession, as to
render it impossible to reply to one before another was
put. His first request was to have Mr. Baffles' name
pronounced distinctly. He then asked him in what coun-
try he was born ? how long he had been in India ? whether

KXTRACT FHOM <:!APTAIN TRAV^RS' JOURNAL, 305

he had accompanied the expedition against the Island of
Java ? who commanded ? and on being told Sir Samuel
Achmuty^ he seemed to recollect his name^ and made some
observations to Las Casas respecting him. He was par-
ticular in asking the extent of force, and the regiments
employed, and then enquired if Mr. Raffles delivered up
the Island to the Dutch, or was relieved by another Go-
vernor. He appeared to be acquainted with the value
and importance of the Island, but put some strange ques-
tions to Mr. Baffles, such as ho^r the King of Java con-
ducted himself. On Mr. Raffles explaining, he seemed
most attentive, and then asked whether the spice planta-
tions at Amboyna were doing well, and whether the Spice
Islands were to be also restored to the Dutch. He then
asked the name of the ship in which we were going home,
with what cargo laden, and which was best, Bourbon or
Java coffee; all these questions were put with great
rapidity, and before replied to he turned round to Captain
Gamham and myself, asked our names, and what service
we had seen; whether we were ever wounded, or ever
taken prisoners; how long we had been in India, and
several other similar questions. He then again addressed
himself to Mr. Baffles, and seemed interested with his re-
marks on Java. He conversed with Sir Thomas Sevestre,
and put similar questions to him with those he had put to
Gamham and myself. On his making a slight inclination
of the head, we prepared to take our leave, and on our
making our bow we parted. Napoleon continuing his walk,

VOL. I. X

306 EXTRACT FROM CAPTAIN TRAVERS' JOURNAL.

and we returning to the hous6. During the whole time of
our interview, as Napoleon remained uncovered, common
politeness obliged us to keep our hats in our hands ; and
at no time was it found necessary to give him any title,
either of General or Emperor.

" Las Casas returned with us to the house, where a cold
collation was prepared. He was most polite and attentive,
and seemed much pleased with Mr. Raffles, with whom he
conversed most freely. Of Napoleon he spoke in terms
of the highest possible praise, and seemed to lament most
bitterly his present situation.

" After our interview with Bonaparte, we made all pos-
sible haste to get on board the ship ; and as we descended
from Plantation-house were much surprised to see the
Ganges was under-weigh ; but, on reaching the beach, we
found that the Admiral, Sir George Cockbum, on ordering
the vessel to get under-weigh, had kindly sent his own
barge to attend Mr. Haffles, and take his party to the
ship, which we did not reach till dusk. We immediately
proceeded on our voyage, delighted at our visit to St
Helena, which afforded a fine subject for conversation for
many days afterwards

*' Our weather was delightM, although the winds were
light and baffling, and so much retarded our progress
that we did not make the Island of Ascension for six days
after leaving St. Helena, which is considered a long
passage.

'' We did not, as is customary, send a boat on shore for

SCENES OF THE VOYAGE. 307

turtle, as the wind springing up favourable we did not
wish to lose a moment, and so proceeded on our voyage,
and soon began to experience the benefit of a fine brisk
trade-wind, which swept us along most pleasantly, at the
same time at a most rapid rate.

" With the return of health Mr. Raffles' spirits greatly
improved. He used often to amuse us with translations
of different papers connected with the ancient history of
Java, and would often read aloud for us in the evening.
In conversation he was fond of alluding to, and explaining,
the several acts of his administration in Java, which he
thought would ultimately tend much to the improvement
of the Island, and the amelioration of the condition of the
Javanese, whom he always seemed to feel a great interest
for. In these conversations he never spoke with severity
or harshness of those whom he knew to be the cause of his
removal from a government which established for the
British name a character and credit in the Eastern Seas
which will ever be respected and revered. He seldom
touched upon the annoying circumstances of his superces-
sion, except to express a hope that justice, however late,
would not be altogether denied to him ; and he felt con-
vinced that on being heard at home all possible amends
would be made him by the Court of Directors.

" In this most agreeable way we continued our voyage
without interruption or annoyance of any kind till the 17th
of June, when a most extraordinary circumstance occurred.
The Auspicious, a country ship, laden like ourselves with

308 SCENES OF THE VOYAGE.

cofTee, and bound from Batavia to London, which had
been keeping company with us from the day of sailing,
was close alongside the Ganges within speaking distance
in the evening, when, the breeze increasing, the Auspicious
went a little a-head. The night was fine and bright, and
we all remained on deck longer than usual, enjoying it,
and admiring the brisk rate at which both vessels were
going, each having royals, and as much sail as they could
carry. About three o'clock we were alarmed at hearing a
shot from the Auspicious, and on looking towards her it
would be impossible to describe our dismay and surprise
at finding that she had lost her three topmasts, fore, main,
and mizen, and seemed a perfect wreck. As morning
dawned, and we could discern more distinctly, nothing could
look more miserable than she did ; how strikingly differ-
etit from what she was the preceding evening, when with
swelling sail she seemed to cut the waves, whilst now, a
perfect wreck, she lay completely at their mercy.

" To account for this sudden squall injuring the Auspi-
cious so very much, and not reaching the Ganges, only a
few hundred yards distant, was more than any one on
board either vessel could do. The sailors called it a white
squall, desperate for the moment, but of short duration.
During the night, on board the Ganges, we had not expe-
rienced the slightest increase of breeze, nor was there the
appearance of a squall observed by any one on board ; and
all remarked that we had not passed a smoother or more
tranquil night during our voyage. We remained with the

LETTER TO W. B. RAMSAY^ ESQ. 309

Auspicious for a day or two, to render all assistance in
our power ; and it is astonishing how soon she repaired
her injuries and became fit to join company again. We
made all sail on the third day after the accident, and then
proceeded with fair weather and favourable winds.

" The 6th of July was Mr. Raffles' birth-day, when he
had completed his thirty-fifth year ; and the weather being
mild and favourable. Captain Falconer invited our com-
pagnon de voyage. Captain Nash, to dine on board the
Ganges, and do honour to the day ; when we passed a
most agreeable and happy one, delighted to see the health
of him whose birth-day we were thus celebrating, holding
forth such fair prospects of our being able to celebrate many
such anniversaries. We drank toasts in bumpers, and
made speeches without number, and concluded the day as
we had commenced it, with rejoicings ; not a little in-
creased, perhaps, by the prospect before us of so soon
touching the blessed shores of old England once again,
from whence we had been so long absent.'*

The following is an extract of a letter to his friend Mr.
W. B. Samsay, written on the voyage : —

" To be plain, I must tell you, my dear friend, that after
suffering severely from an illness brought on in conse-
quence of great anxiety and personal fatigue, I embarked
on the 25th March last from Batavia, and am now looking
out for the English coast. My party consists of three
gentlemen and my family, among whom I have to reckon

310 LETTER TO W. B. RAMSAY, ESQ.

your firiend Travers, who, if not too lazy to write, ought
to tell you a great deal more about the matter ; for myself,
although I am considerably recovered, I yet remain wretch-
edly thin and sallow, with a jaundiced eye and shapeless
leg. Yet, I thank God, my spirit is high and untamed,
and the meeting of friends will, I hope, soon restore me to
my usual health.

'^ I return to you, however, a poor solitary wretch ; and
the rocks of Albion, which under other circumstances
would have met my eye with joy and gladness, will not
now present themselves without reflections \^hich I cannot
dwell upon.

" If the Alcione has arrived, you will have been apprized
of the result of Lord Moira's proceedings. His Lordship
deemed it advisable to postpone any decision on Gillespie's
charges; the Supreme Government, however, have de-
clared my character unaffected by these charges, and
further stated that they considered it but an act of justice
to leave my reserve appointment to Bencoolen unshaken,
this being the test by which the Court judge of my having
explained my conduct satisfactorily. But the manner in
which my removal from Java was effected, and the whole
course of proceedings adopted towards me by the Gover-
nor-General has been such, that it was impossible for me to
rest satisfied with this tardy and incomplete judgment. I
therefore resolved to appeal to the authorities in England,
and in the mean time quietly to go to Bencoolen : but the
shock was too severe, my health had been undermined,

LETTER TO W. B. RAMSAY, ESQ. 311

and this injiistice threw me on my back. It was the
opinion of the faculty that remaining longer in India was
dangerous, and I took the resolution of proceeding to the
Cape> and eventually to England.

" My successor arrived on the 11th, and in thirteen days
after I quitted Batavia, in the Ganges, leaving my appoint*
ment to Bencoolen untouched. It would appear to have
been the opinion of Mr. Edmonstone, that the orders of
the Court left a latitude for the Supreme Government to
exert themselves in my favour ; but this opinion was over-
ruled by the influence of Lord Moira. A struggle, how-
ever, was made^ and I am left to hope that even in
the proceedings of the Governor-General in Council I
have found sometliing like justice, and acknowledgment
for my services recorded.

" It is my intention to appeal most forcibly to the Court
against the whole course of measures. I feel confldent I
shall obtain justice from them : this is all I shall ask for.
I have a cause that will carry conviction. I am prepared
for every member being prepossessed against me but I
have documents with me that will prove that they have
been imposed upon. I am prepared to prove that so far
from having been a burden to the finances of Great Bri-
tain, that in the wind-up there is every chance of a sur-
plus; that in the afiair of Palemoang 1 aciea accoromg
to the principle laid down by the Governor-General in
Council, and received the full and unreserved approval of
the Governor-General in Council; but this was while

312 EXTRACT FROM CAPTAIN TRAVKRS' JOURNAL.

Lord Minto was at the head of affairs. That in mj
land-revenue arrangements the rights of no one had been
subverted^ and the just rights of all have been placed on
a footing more advantageous than was ever before felt bj
them. I come prepared to meet every one of my enemies^
but with a determination to turn them into friends.

*' You will have to pay many a sixpence for this letter,
yet I hope you will not grudge it, considering that it comes
from one, who although he brings back with him from
India but a sorry carcase, and wants the blazonments of
power, returns with a heart and soul as purely and devot-
edly attached as it was on the day of parting ; neither
time, nor distance, nor the coldness of silence itself, which
by the bye I have sometimes experienced, has quenched
that flame in my breast which was once lighted by the
torch of true and generous friendship ; and it is with these
feeUngs I still subscribe myself your devoted and affec-
tionate friend,

" T. S. R.

CONTINUATION OF EXTRACTS FROM CAPTAIN TRAVERS'

JOURNAL.

" On the 11th of July we made the Scilly Isles, the
announcement of which soon brought all hands on deck.
We quickly approached Fahnouth, when several boats
came off to take us on shore, all most exorbitant in their
demands ; and whilst I was arranging some reasonable
bargain, Mr. Raffles agreed to go with the first man who

EXTRACT FROM CAPTAIN TRAVERs' JOURNAL. 313

!made the vessel, giving him his own terms, as a consi-
deration for the exertions he made in coming to our assist-
ance first. We quickly prepared for the boat, and were
ready about noon, when we took our leave of Captain
Falconer, but not without some expressions of what we
felt, and ever would gratefully acknowledge, for his un-
remitting kindness and attention, his great hospitahty,
and Uberal conduct, during the long time we were on
board his ship. His anxiety to study the comforts, antici-
pate the wants, and in every possible way meet the
wishes of Mr. Baffles, had at an early period of the
voyage attracted our admiration ; and his subsequent
steady adherence thereto, added to his agreeable man-
ners and accommodating disposition, had rendered him a
favourite with all on board. Not a want was experienced
by any during the voyage, and I believe no vessel ever
yet made the trip from India to England under more
happy or agreeable circumstances than the good ship
Ganges.

" On leaving the vessel. Captain Falconer, ever anxious
to evince his high respect for Mr. Raffles, fired the salute
due to his rank as a Governor, which was immediately
repeated by one from the Auspicious, when both ships,
although with native crews, gave us three hearty cheers,
and I am very sure accompanied them with sincere good
wishes, as we could distinctly hear, in passing the vessels,
the terms of praise in which they were speaking of Mrl
Raffles.

314 EXTRACT FROM CAPTAIN TROVERS' JOURNAL.

*' Our party in the boat consisted of Mr. Baffles^ and
his faithful servant Lewis, a native of Malacca, who had
Uved with him many years; Captain Garnham and my-
self, aides*de-camp ; Sir Thomas Sevestre, who accom-
panied him as his medical attendant ; a Mr. Graham, a
passenger from Batavia, a gentleman well known to us all,
of high respectability, who, during the time of Java being
in our possession, had made a very large fortune by
trading as a merchant in Batavia, and Rs^den-Rana-
Dipura, a Javanese Chief.

" The day was beautiful, the sun shining bright, the
sea smooth, being but little agitated by the gentle breezes.
The land, as we approached, had to us the most delight-
ful appearance, the fields looking so green, and the coun-
try so luxuriant : so that our trip from the ship, though
long, was not tedious, but, on the contrary, most agree-
able. We reached shore about four o'clock, when we
were immediately examined by the custom-house officers;
first, as to the state of our health, and next, whether there
was any infection on board the ship, or at the port we had
sailed from. These questions were easily answered, but
methought the officer seemed rather doubtiul as to the
positive assurances our mouths were giving, in direct op-
position to the strong evidence of our cheeks, which, with
the exception of Captain Gamham's, were of the most
pale and emaciated cast : however, we got through the
examination, and were permitted to land, and afterwards
had a hearty laugh on communicating to each other our

EXTRACT FROM CAPTAIN TRAVERs' JOURNAL. 315

feaxs and apprehensions at the examination^ which we
were in no way prepared to meet or expect. We had not,
however, yet done with examination, for we had no sooner
landed than our baggage was taken to the Custom-house :
but this took little time, as we had only a small trunk
each, and nothing seizable about us, Mr. Raffles having
strongly recommended us, and indeed given us the ex-
ample himself, of putting every article, even of the smallest
value, into the ship's manifest.

'' After these several delays we proceeded to the inn,
where we ordered the best dinner procurable at the place,
to be got ready as quickly as possible, and passed a most
joyous, agreeable evening.

" Having seen all we wished of Falmouth before dinner^
we determined on going early to Truro next morning, and
reached there to breakfast at nine, Mr. Baffles being
anxious to avail himself of the opportunity, whilst in
Cornwall, of viewing some of the mines, and inquiring
into the nature of the ores, for the purpose of comparing
them with the products of those which, under his direc-
tions, when in the government of Java, had been brought
into fiiU power and force at Banca.

*' Immediately after breakfast Mr. Raffles had an inter-
view with a gentleman at Truro, who was well acquainted
with mining business. He seemed a sensible, intelUgent,
well-informed gentleman, and aflForded Mr. Raffles much
useful and satisfactory information. After some delay at
Tniro, employed as I have mentioned, we proceeded to

*♦

316 EXTRACT FROM CAPTAIN TRAVERS' JOURNAL.

Welbesy, distant from Truro about five miles^ close to
Chesswater^ where we were informed one of the best
copper-mines was to be seen^ and here we were much
pleased with all we saw. The gentleman to whom we had
been introduced at Truro accompanied Mr. BaiHes^ with
the view of rendering every assistance in his power, and
was very kind and useful.

** The appearance and working of this mine astonished
us, and the wonderful power of the steam-engine was no
less a novelty. Mr. Baffles, Captain Gamham, and Sir
Thomas Sevestre went down, which I was afraid to do,
not being very strong at the time ; but nothing could dis-
suade Mr. Baffles from descending, although, in his then
.delicate state of health, we were most anxious to prevent
him from doing so; but his reply was, that he never
would forgive himself if he were to lose such an oppor-
tunity, and accordingly he went down and made himself
quite master of the whole routine, and did not seem to
suffer in the least.

" From what he had seen at Falmouth, Truro, and
Welbesy, of the different specimens of the ores, he ap-
peared quite confirmed in his original opinion of the supe-
riority of the Japan ore.

** We experienced the greatest possible civility and
attention during the time we were inspecting this mine,
and Mr. Baffles was greatly pleased with the anxiety and
willingness evinced to afford him information on every
point connected with mining in all its branches.^'

MR. raffles' arrival IN LONDON. 317

Mr. Raffles reached London on the 16th of July, 1816,
and the next morning he announced his arrival at the
East India House. He looked with the greatest con-
fidence to the Court of Directors for ample justice, when
they were in possession of the facts of his case. The
serenity of his temper, the buoyancy of his spirit, and the
joyous feeling of returning health, absorbed the recollec-
tion of past misery and disappointment, in bright antici-
pations of future reward and happiness.

CHAPTER X.

Mr, Raffles appeals to the Court of Directors --Writes his History
of Java— Princess Charlotte— Visits the Continent — Meditates
the establishment of a Society on the principle of the Jardin des

• Plantes — Is appointed Lieittenant- Governor of Bencoolen and its
dependencies— Embarks for India^Death of Princess Charlotte —
Arrival in Sumatra— Description of the Settlement — Dispute with
the Dutch Government — Earthquakes—State of Bencoolen— His
habits of intercourse with the Natives.

As soon as Mr. Baffles reached London he addressed the
Court of Directors. He had laboured for ten years with
unwearied zeal to promote their best interests, and he
therefore claimed a revision of his services.

Mr. Raffles* health was so much impaired by his resi-
dence in India, that his friends strongly urgisd tbe neces-
sity of his relinquishing aD thoughts of returning to that
country, bat to this advice it was unfortunately not in his
power to attend ; previously to leaving England, however,
he was anxious to record the information which he had
collected regarding Java. The island had been trans-
ferred by the English Government in total ignorance of
its value to the Dutch. The presence of Mr. Raffles in
England created an interest in the subject as far as his
personal influence extended. To diffuse this interest

WRJTES HIS HISTORY OF JAVA. 319

more generally, and to make the country sensible of the
loss sustained by the relinquishment of so flourishing a
colony to a foreign and a rival power, he determined to
write his History of Java, which he completed with his
usual quickness. A few sheets were rapidly written off
every morning for the printer, and corrected at night on
his return irom his dinner engagements. It was com-
menced in the month of October, 1816, and published in
May, 1817*. It was at this time that Mr. Raffles was
presented to the Prince Regent, and received the honour
of Knighthood.

During this period Sir Stamford enjoyed the pleasures
of society with a zest which may well be imagined, when
the vigour of his mind and the variety of his tastes are
considered. He left England, indeed, at an age when he
had no opportunity of judging of the attractions of its
best society ; but whilst he was occupied in his pubUc
duties in the East, he seized eagerly every opportunity to
gratify his thirst of knowledge, and to improve the talents
with which God had blessed him : he, therefore, in every
station surrounded himself with all of every class from
whom he could derive information ; and he returned to
England with talents ripened, and with a taste formed
for all the intellectual enjoyments of life. During the
fifteen months which he thus passed he had the happiness
to obtain the friendship of many, whose sympathy in after

* Early in this year Mr. Raffles married Sophia, daughter of J. W.
Hull, Esq., of the county of Down, Ireland.

320 VISITS THE CONTINENT.

scenes of anxiety and sorrow, with which it pleased God to
visit him, proved a source of comfort and consolation. He
had also the high gratification of being one of those whom
their Boyal Highnesses Princess Charlotte and Prince
Leopold honoured with proofs of regard. He was a fre-
quent guest at Claremont* His last dinner before he set
out on his expedition was there ; and the ring which on
that day the Princess gave to him, was the gift which,
of all such gifts, he prized most.

In the month of June Sir Stamford Raffles visited the
Cbntinent for the purpose of obtaining an interview with
the King of Holland, and making some representations to
his Majesty in behalf of the native and some of the Dutch
inhabitants of Java. — The following letters give an ac-
count of this tour.

TO HER GRACE THE DUCHESS OF SOMERSET.

** Brtisselst July }4th, 1817.

" You will have had cause to call me a very bad corre-
spondent: I have neither kept my word nor kept my
journal; and as it is now too late to attempt bringing up
arrears, I must hasten back to London, and make the best
apology I can, and trust to my personal influence for for-
giveness.

" I send you, within, a ' Forget-me-Not,' or, as the Swiss
call it, ' Rose ne mmhliez pas,' from the Alps.

" Your Grace will expect that I should say something
of the countries I have piassed through, and yet what can

VISITS THK CONTINENT. 321

you expect from one who knows so little of the European
world, and is scarcely in one place before he flies to another.
Of France you have so many accounts that it would be
presumptuous in me to offer an opinion ; of Switzerland and
the Alps your Grace knows every thing; and to attempt to
extol the banks of the Bhine, or the fertility of Belgium,
woidd be like giving you an account of the banks of the
Thames and the fields of England. I was certainly sur-
prised and delighted with the appearance of agriculture in
France, not that the fields were as highly cultivated as in
England, nor that any thing like an advanced state of
agriculture was to be seen. I was pleased to observe two
things, which I know are highly condemned by agricul-
turists, the smallness of the properties, and the cultivation
of the fruit'trees in the grain and hay-fields. Agricul-
turists maintain that capital is essential to improvement ;
that when the properties are so small there can be no
capital ; this I grant to be good diction where the soil is
poor and requires much improvement, but when it is rich,
and wants little or no improvement, capital is unnecessary.
For the greatness of a country it may be an object that
the greatest possible quantity of produce should be brought
to market ; and those who are for raising a nation main-
tain that this can only be effected by large farms and the
outlay of capital. The philanthropist, however, and even
the philosopher, will hesitate before he sacrifices every
thing to the greatness of the nation ; unless its happiness
goes hand in hand with its greatness, he will think the

VOL. I. Y

322 VISITS THE CONTINENT.

latter but of little value. Now when I see every man cul-
tivating his own fields I cannot but think him happier &r
than when he is cultivating the field of another ; even if
he labours more^ that labour is still lighter which is his
pride and pleasure^ than that which is his burden and
sorrow. In France there seems to be so much good land
that it can be hardly managed amiss^ and in the provinces
through which I passed it struck me that the crops were
full as good as those which I have seen in England.
Throw the people out of these little properties, and they
lose their independence of character, their pride ; and
when only accustomed to daily wages are soon fitted for
the army, the manufactory, or the poor-house. But you
will say how is it that in France, where the government is
so despotic, that the people are happier than in England?
Many causes may have contributed to the present state of
agriculture in France ; the revolution aboUshed the feudal
rights and service, with ten thousand vexations under
which it had previously laboured ; and the land in general
fell into the hands of the actual cultivators, and the people
who were seen to cultivate it with so much pleasure. It
did not suit Buonaparte's policy to grind the peasant :
from the lower class he wanted men and took them^ but
this only left the more for those who remained ; it was
from the rich that he took money, and the demands of his
government gave employment to all; all the energies of
France were exerted at his command : but however
dearly it cost his subjects to maintain his authority, the

VISITS THE CONTINENT. 323

burden seems to have fallen so lightly on the agriculturist
that he even benefited by it.

" I like to see fruit-trees growing among the corn, be-
cause it not only affords a refreshing and beautiftd scenery,
but because it reminds me of those patriarchal times, those
days of simplicity, when the son and the grandson, and
even the great grandson, honoured the trees that their
forefathers planted.

"Upon the whole, I cannot but think that, notwith-
standing agriculture as a science may be almost unknown
in France, and that France as a nation has been greatly
impoverished both in men and money, there is a foundation
in the present state of her land and peasantry to support
a much greater nation than France ever yet was : all now
depends upon the wisdom of their government and the
fortune of her politics. So much for the agriculture of
France.

♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ 4c :|e

'^ Switzerland seems to have felt the weight of French
influence, and is certainly very different to what it is re-
presented to have been some twenty years ago; but the
valley of Chamouni, the Alps are the same ; that troubled
sea which seems to have been in a moment stayed and
fettered by an icy hand, still shines in all its majesty ; nor
has all the vice nor all the blood which has stained the
lower world cast one spot to sully the heavenly purity of
Mont Blanc.

" The Rhine, with its hundred castles which line the

324 LETTER TO MR. MARSDEN.

heights along its banks^ still flow in its ancient course^ to
delight the traveller, enrich the land> and spur the in-
dustry of man.

" Of this place, and its politics, I have seen but little."

***#♦*

Sir Stamford Rafiles reached London from Holland on
the 26th of July, and on the following day he wrote to his
friend

MR. MARSDEN.

•* Bemers Street, July 27th, 1817.
" My DEAR Sir,

" I have the pleasure to inclose you a letter from

Mr. Langles, which relates, I believe, principally to a copy

of Marco Polo in the Boyal Library, that he conceives

may be useful for you to refer to.

" We arrived yesterday evening, after a very pleasant

tour of seven weeks, having crossed JFrance from Dieppe

through Rouen, Paris, and Dijon, to Geneva; passed

through the valley of Chamouni, along the foot of the

Alps, and returned by Lausanne and Berne to Basle and

down the Bhine to Cologne, whence we traversed the Low

Countries to Brussels and Ostend. We had fine weather

throughout, and met with neither delay nor difficulty to

render the journey unpleasant. At Paris and Brussels

we remained from eight to ten days, which enabled us to

see all the lions; to have seen more would have taken

months, and these I could not spare.

ESTABLISHES THK ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY. 325

•' I met with very great attention in the Netherlands,
and had the honour to dine with the King last Monday :
they were very communicative regarding their eastern
colonies ; but I regret to say that, notwithstanding the
King himself, and his leading minister, seem to mean
well, they have too great a hankering after profit, and
immediate profit, for any liberal system to thrive under

them.

* * * * * . ^

" We shall remain in town about three weeks, and I hope
to embark in September.

"Yours, &c. &c.

" T. S. R."

The period was now approaching when it became neces-
sary to make the requisite arrangements for returning to
India. Sir Stamford was incessantly occupied in scientific
and literary inquiries, and formed his plans for still further
contributing to the valuable and interesting collections
he had sent home from the Eastern Islands. At this
time he meditated the establishment of a Society on the
principle of the Jardin des Plantes at Paris, which finally,
on his last return from the East, he succeeded in forming,
in 1826, under the title of the Zoological Society of London.
He was also deeply engaged in the duties and pleasures
of private friendship. He visited Liverpool, Manchester,
the Lakes of Westmoreland, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Dublin,
and Wales ; travelling, with his usual speed, sixteen hours
in the day.

326 EMBARKS FOR INDIA.

In October, 1817, Sir Stamford, with his family, em-
barked for Bencoolen at Portsmouth, on board ^'The
Lady Raffles." The Court of Directors, " in consideration
of the zeal and talents displayed during the period he
filled the office of lieutenant-Govemor of Java, conferred
upon him the title of Lieutenant-Governor of Bencoolen,
as a peculiar mark of the favourable sentiments which the
Court entertained of his merits and services.''

The following are extracts of letters written to the
Duchess of Somerset.

" October \3th,lS\7.

" Oh ! that this leave-taking was at an end ; my heart
is sad, and yet what avails it to repine ? I must go, and
the sooner I am off the better. My house is filled with
those who are all determined to say good-bye, and make
me more miserable when it requires all my fortitude to
keep my spirits calm and uniform."

** Falmouth, October 29(A.
" We had a fair wind down the channel, but had hardly
got to the Land's End when a heavy gale came on from
the westward with a tremendous sea: this we stemmed
for three days, but at last finding we were losing ground,
and every one being tired out, some with severe sickness,
others with severe duty, we were compelled to seek shelter
in this friendly port. Lady Raffles has suffered severely
from the motion of the ship, and for the last four days
refused every kind of nourishment, even a glass of cold

EMBARKS FOR INDIA. 327

water, so that I cannot help thinking it fortunate we have
an opportunity of recruiting her. Often, very often, I
might say always, do we regret it is Falmouth and not
Pl)rmouth : we might then have hoped once more to have
said good-bye f * * * *

'' I am going into the country to descend a tin-mine,
and I hope to be quite learned in the mineralogy of
Cornwall."

" Falmouth, November 6th, 1817.
" Last night I was gratified by the receipt of your kind
letters : this morning we are greeted with a fair wind, and
summoned to embark within half an hour. God grant
we may be fairly off! — as we must go — the sooner the
better."

4c * « « *

*' November 7th.

" We sailed yesterday^ and by the pilot I sent a few
hurried hues— to say fareweU— but alas ! the wind soon
after changed, and we are again driven into port. We
were obliged to run in quickly, otherwise we should have
been driven back to Plymouth. I cannot say I should
have regretted this, but it would have been a very bad
way of commencing a voyage.

'* How long we may remain here seems uncertain : the
wind now blows what the sailors call ^ great guns,' and
perhaps it wUl expend its fiiry, and change about to a
more favourable quarter.

" We are now detained, on board on account of the

32S' EMBARKS FOR INDIA.

violence of the wind, but we hope to have a boat off in the
evening."

•* Falmoutky November 9th.
*' We landed this morning, and if the wind'continues
equally unfavourable to-morrow, we have it in contempla-
tion to set off post for Plymouth.

* * * . Hfi jfe .

" What a melancholy and unexpected event has oc-
curred ! It has shocked me beyond measure — I dare not
dwell upon it*.''

" Off Falmouth, November \9th,
" Once more we are off, and as we must go, God grant

it may be for good ! We left Plymouth after sunset

yesterday, travelled all night, and are now many miles

from Falmouth on our watery way.

" And now, then, I must say good-bye in earnest, for

the wind is decidedly fair, and promises to continue so.*'

•* At Sea, December \st, 1817.
*' The die is now cast, and we are at last fairly off.
We have just weathered the Bay of Biscay, and hope, in.
the course of next week, to reach Madeira. We are at

* The reader has already supplied the event, — the death of Her
Royal Highness Princess Charlotte. The kindness which Sir Stam-
ford received from this nohle-minded Princess, and from His Royal
Highness Prince Leopold, was returned by him with the most devoted
attachment. Those who remember the universal feeling of grief»
when the whole nation was humbled under this calamity, will not
wonder that Sir Stamford mourned her early and unexpected death
with far more than a subjects sorrow.

EMBARKS FOR INDIA. 329

present harassed by contrary winds, but the weather i»
fine, and we are already sensible of a warmer climate.
Lady Baffles has suflFered very much, and has not yet left
her couch.

'* The concerns of our little community are of too
monotonous a nature to deserve detail, and as yet the
heavens and the ocean have been our only prospect from
without. You will be glad, however, to hear that all the
individuals of the ark are well and thriving. The cows,
dogs, cats, birds, the latter singing around me, and my
nursery of plants thriving beyond all expectation: the
thermometer is at 76°. What a waste of waters now lies
between us, and yet the distance daily widens, and will
widen still until half the world divides us."

It IB by many considered impossible to occupy the mind
and time steadily and usefully under all the discomforts
and disadvantages of a sea voyage; but Sir Stamford
never relaxed his occupations — he regularly devoted his
mornings to study — and only allowed a small portion of
the day to be occupied in the idle exercise of walking on
the deck. He spent most of his time in the retirement of
his cabin — ^read and wrote on serious subjects till the
evening, when he read aloud some books of poetry or
light works ; and thus, though never well at sea, he had
the satisfaction of feeling that the time, if not agreeably,
was not unprofitably spent.

The passage was long and tedious— ^five months without

330 ARRIVAL AT BENCOOLEN.

any object to vary the scene, relieve the eye, or divert the
mind from the contemplation of what has been compared
to one great monotonous idea, ^^ The Lady Baffles"
reached Bencoolen, without touching at any port, on the
22nd of March, 1818.

Sir Stamford found the settlement in a state of great
confusion ; the Government-houses were deserted ; there
was no accommodation for any of the party, and he was
obliged to put his family into a habitation which was so
impaired by the shocks of earthquakes, that the inhabit-
ants would not trust themselves in it. His letters to his
friends describe his feelings on his first arrival.

TO WILLIAM MARSDEN, ESQ.

Bencookn, April 7, 1818.

" My dear Sir,

"• I have only time to advise you of our safe arrival
here.

'' We had a very tedious passage of more than four
months, exclusive of our detention at Falmouth. Lady
Baffles presented me with a beautiftil little girl, when to
the southward of the Cape : fortunately we had moderate
and fine weather, and both mother and child did wonder-
fully well; neither of them suffered from the privations
attending a protracted voyage. At the suggestion of the
Badin*, my daughter has received the name of Tunjong

* Raden-R^na-Dipura, a Javanese Chief, who had accompanied Sir
Stamford to England.

BENCOOLEN. 331

Seg^a (the lily of the Sea), in addition to those of
Charlotte Sophia.

'' This is, without exception, the most wretched place I
ever beheld. I cannot convey to you an adequate idea of
the state of ruin and dilapidation which surrounds me.
What with natural impediments, bad government, and
the awful visitations of Providence which we have re-
cently experienced, in repeated earthquakes, we have
scarcely a dwelling in which to lay our heads, or where-
withal to satisfy the cravings of nature. The roads are
impassable ; the highways in the town overrun with rank
grass; the Government-house a den of ravenous dogs and
polecats. The natives say that Bencoolen is now a tcma
mati (dead land). In truth, I could never have conceived
any thing half so bad. We will try and make it better ;
and if I am well supported from home, the west coast may
yet be turned to account. You must, however, be pre-
pared for the abolition of slavery ; the emancipation of
the country people from the forced cultivation of pepper ;
the discontinuance of the gaming and cock-fighting farms,
and a thousand other practices equally disgraceful and
repugnant to the British character and government. A
complete and thorough reform is indispensable, and re-
ductions must be made throughout.

" As soon as I have effected some essential changes
here,, I mean to go to Croee by land, afterwards to Pa-
dang ; from the latter place I shall go by sea to Tappa-
nooly, and thence most probably to Acheen, where there

332 lETTER TO THE DUCHESS OF SOMERSET.

will be much to do. I must not omit to tell you that it is
my intention to visit Menangkabu from Padang. Mr.
HoUoway seems half afraid^ but, nolens volens, as he is
Resident, he must accompany me.

" I am already at issue with the Dutch Government
about their boundaries in the Lampoon country. They
insist on packing us up close to Billimbing, on the west
coast. I demand an anchorage in Simangka Bay, and lay
claim to Simangka itself. If we obtain this, we shall have
a convenient place for our China ships to water; and
should we go no farther within the Archipelago, be able
to set up our shop next door to the Dutch. It would not,
I think, be many years before my station in the Straits of
Sunda would rival Batavia as a commercial entrepot If I
have time, you shall have copies of my despatches, and I
hope to have your support with Mr. Canning on this
point. You will at once see the immense importance of
what I am standing out for, both for this coast and our
interest generally.

" We are beginning to make ourselves comfortable —
happy we always are. Our kindest regards to Mrs.
Marsden."

TO THE DUCHESS OF SOMERSET.

Fort Marlborough, April Stk, 1818.

" What an age has passed ! what a distance are we
apai't I fifteen thousand miles on the opposite sides of the
world! * * * * ♦

EARTHQUAKES AT BENCOOLEN. 333

*^ In my last I gave you a dry detail of our voyage. My
arrival was not hailed by the most auspicious of omens,
for the day previous to it a violent earthquake had nearly
destroyed every building in the place^ and the first com-
munication which I received firom the shore was, that both
Government-houses were rendered useless and uninhabit-
able. These earthquakes are said to occur every five or
six years, and they have now lasted from the 18th of the
last month up to the present period, the shocks occurring
within short intervals twice or thrice a day. The most
violent shock happened on the 18th, before our arrival : it
occurred during the night, and, by the accounts given, it
toust have been truly awful. Every building has suffered
more or less ; some are quite ruins, others hardly deserv-
ing repair : the house which I now occupy is rent from top
to bottom, there is not. a room without a crack of some
feet long and several inches wide ; the cornices broken and
every thing unhinged ; from some houses many cart-loads
of rubbish have been cleared away, and still they are
inhabited, notwithstanding they rock to and fro with
every breeze.

" This you will say is but a bad beginning for my
Eastern Empire, but as we are not inclined to make diffi-
culties, or murmur against Providence, we shall, I have
no doubt, contrive to make ourselves very happy. The
earthquake might have been worse, for in the accounts of
a shock felt on this coast in 1797, it is stated that the
vibratory shocks continued for three minutes, and re-

334 EARTHQUAKES AT BENCOOLEN.

curred at intervals during the space of three hours^ till
the shock completely ceased. At Padang, the houses of
the inhabitants were almost entirely destroyed, and the
public works much damaged. A vessel lying at anchor
was thrown by the sudden rise of the tide upwards of
three miles on shore. The number of lives lost there
amounted to above three hundred ; of these some were
crushed under the ruins of falling houses^ some were Ute-
rally entombed alive by the earth closing upon them,
and others were drowned bj the sudden irruption of
the waters of the ocean. But, after all, this is nothing
to our Java volcanoes : there is nothing here half so
grand and magnificent; and from what I have seen of
Sumatra, I would not give one Java for a thousand such
islands.

*' I have been here so short a time, and have had so
little opportunity of looking about, that I have not much
to say of the farther East.

" I am now preparing for a tour overland to the
Southern Besidencies, as far as the straits of Sunda,
and on my return shall go northward as far as Acheen,
and inland to Pageruyung or Menangkabu, the capital
of the Malays.''

4c 4c 4: :|c 4:

It may be inferred, even from these short extracts, that
Sir Stamford found sufficient occupation for his active
mind. He devoted his whole time, on his first arrival, to
the examination of the Records of the settlement, the

POPULARITY OF SIR STAMFORD RAFFLES. 335

state of the country and people in its immediate neigh-
bourhood, and endeavoured to collect the European in-
habitants and the native Chiefs around him, that he might
become personally acquainted with their habits and man-
ners. The same system of excluding the natives from the
society of Europeans had been pursued in this settlement
as in most other parts of India. Sir Stamford at once
broke down this barrier, and opened his house to the
higher class of natives on all occasions. During the whole
period of his residence in Sumatra he had some of them
present during the hours of social intercourse.

The result of this change it is needless to dwell upon.
The Chiefs and people considered him as their best friend
and adviser, yielded to his opinion upon all occasions, and
harmony and good-will prevailed throughout the settle-
ment.

With regard to the Dutch, so active had they been in
their endeavours to regain their Empire in the East, and
to depress the native power, that the re-appearance of Sir
Stamford in the Archipelago was hailed with joy and
hope on the one side, as a deliverance, and with fear and
jealousy on the other, as an invasion.

The efiFect of his return to a scene of action in which
he had borne so conspicuous a part might have been
foreseen. It was impossible to expect tame submission
from those who were oppressed, when there appeared a
hope of relief, or to suppose that Sir Stamford could
with indifference look on, and take no part in the

336 POPULARITY OF SIR STAMFORD RAFFLES.

struggle. A different character might have acted dif-
ferently ; but in sending him into such a field of action^
the experience of his government in Java was sufficient
evidence of what was to be expected from the Governor
of Bencoolen.

CHAPTER XI.

Sir Stamford Rc^ffles determines to penetrate into the interior of the
country — First excursion to the Hill of Mists— Account of jour-
ney to Passumah — Discovery of gigantic flower — Vegetation of
Malayan forests— Reason for visiting Passumah — Ceremony of a
funeral — Traces of ancient Hindu mythology — Description of the
people— Small-pox — Fatigue of the journey —Descer^ in rafts —
Retwm to Masna — Proceeds to Cawoor — Success of first at-
tempt to cross the Island of Sumatra — Extract from Mr, Pres-
grav€*s Journal— Description of the sacred mountain — Disap*
pointment in not reading the crater— Return to Manna — Moun-
tain's temperature—Large lake — Sufferings of the people for want
of salt, prohibited by the Dutch Government — People ofPasumah
Lebar — Descendants of the Javanese — Villages — Language —
Religion,

Sir Stamford considered it to be his. duty, as it was his
inclination^ to obtain some general knowledge of the
island, as well as of that particular portion of it over
which he was appointed to preside. The East India
Company, indeed, had confined their rule to a narrow
strip of sea- coast, but it was desirable that some inter-
course should tate place with the people of the country
beyond, since a mutual exchange of good offices would, it
was natural to suppose, prove beneficial to both parties.

A general impression prevailed, that it was impossible
to penetrate the range of hills which run from north to

VOL. I. z

338 LETTKR TO THE DUCHESS OF SOMERSET.

soutli throughout this great island. All those who were
applied to decUned making the attempt ; and Sir Stam-
ford was obliged to come to the determination^ that he
would go himself, and visit the interior and more fertile
parts.

His first excursion was a short distance immediately
inland from Bencoolen. The second down the coast by
the sea-beach, for about eighty miles, to Manna, and from
thence, some days' journey into the interior; and after
returning to Manna, still further down the coast, to
Cawoor ; from this last place back to Bencoolen.

He gave an account of these excursions to his friends
in letters, written at the time, from which the following
are a selection : —

TO THE DUCHESS OF SOMERSET.

'* On board the Lady Raffles, off Sumatra,
July lUh, 1818.

" That your Grace may not think me unmindful of my
promise, I must now send you some account of our pro-
ceedings since I troubled you with my letters by the
Northumberland.

"I will not, however, trouble your Grace with any de-
tails of the immediate changes which hs^ve been effected
at Bencoolen, nor with what are in contemplation; the
place is too insignificant for general interest, and my sub-
jects too uncultivated for pleasing description. A wider
field is open in the Archipelago gener j^ly, and in my pro-

FIRST EXCURSION TO THE HILL OF MISTS. 339

ceedings with the Dutch your Grace might find more
amusement ; but even on these I shall be silent at pre-
sent^ and proceed to what more immediately relates to
me personally.

" At the time I wrote by the Northumberland^ we had
just taken up our abode in a crazy dwellings called the
Government-house, fiill of cracks and fissures : of the
country I had seen nothing, and of the general character
and condition of the people I then knew little. My first
incursion into the interior was immediately east of Ben-
coolen ; here I found the country in a wretched state, and
very thinly peopled. I ascended the first range of hills,
and having taken up a position on the Hill of Mists
(Bukit Kabut), which commands a most extensive view
of the surrounding country, and on which no European
had before set foot, I determined to make it our country
residence, and accordingly gave orders for clearing the
forest, &c. In this I have already made considerable pro-
gress ; a comfortable cottage is erected, and, as far as we
can yet judge, the thermometer is at least six degrees
lower than at Bencoolen. The only inconvenience will
arise from the tigers and elephants, which abound in the
vicinity. One of the villagers told me that his father and
grandfather were carried off by tigers, and there is scarce^
a family that has not lost some of its members by them.
In many parts the people would seem to have resigned
the empire to these animals, taking but few precautions
against them, and regarding them as sacred ; they believe

340 TOUR THROUGH THE SOUTHERN RESIDENCIES.

in transmigration and call them their nene, or grandfather.
On the banks of one of the rivers of this coast upwards of
a hundred people were carried oflF by tigers during the
last year. When a tiger enters a village, the foolish
people frequently prepare rice and fruits, and placing
them at the entrance as an offering to the animal, conceive
that, by giving him this hospitable reception, he will be
pleased with their attention, and pass on without doing
them harm. They do the same on the approach of the
small-pox, and thus endeavour to lay the evil spirit by
kind and hospitable treatment. I am doing all I can to
resume the empire of man, and, having made open war
against the whole race of wild and ferocious animals, I hope
we shall be able to reside on the Hill of Mists without
danger from their attacks.

" Our next excursion was on a tour through the southern
Residencies, in which Lady Raffles accompanied me. We
were absent about three weeks, and visited the districts of
Salumah, Manna, and Cawoor, which your Grace will see
noticed in the map. Our road lay principally along the
sea-beach, and mostly on the sands. From Manna, how-
ever, we penetrated into the interior, and visited the Pas-
sumah country ; and, as our journey was very interesting,
I shall give you a more particular account of it.

*' We left Manna on the morning of the 19th of May,
and proceeded on horseback as far as the village of Tan-
jung Agung, on the Manna river, where we halted during
the middle of the day ; the distance about twenty miles.

ACCOUNT OF A JOURNEY TO PASSUMAH, 341

In the afternoon we walked through the woods to a place
called Merambung, about ten miles fiirther up. The
road^ a mere pathway, very steep in many parts, and not
passable on horseback. We remarked at Merambung
that the houses were larger and much better constructed
than on the coast, and that, in the middle of the village,
there was an erection resembUng a pigeon-house. This
was termed a Lang* gar, or place appropriated to penance,
in which the party remained during the time. As this is
inconsistent with Mahomedanism, we concluded it to be a
remnant of the more ancient faith of the country, — a con-
clusion we . found ftdly confirmed from what we subse-
quently observed further in the interior. The villagers
were very hospitable, and my reception by the Chief was
truly patriarchal.

" On the next morning (the 20th), at half-past five, we
commenced our journey towards Passumah on foot ; the
party, consisting of myself. Lady Raffles, Dr. Arnold, and
Mr. Presgrave, the Resident of Manna, with six native
officers, and about fifty coolies (porters) carrying our food
and baggage. Our journey lay near the banks of the
river during the whole day, but frequently over high clifis,
and almost entirely through thick forests. On approaching
Lebu Tappu, where a village had once stood, we first fell
in with the tracts of elephants ; they were very numerous,
and it was evident they had only preceded us a short
timet We here passed over much grounds which- at one

342 ACCOUNT OF A JOURNEY TO PASSUMAH.

period must have been in cultivation^ but whicli bad long
been in a state of nature. After breakfasting at Lebu
TappUj under the shade of the largest tree we could find,
we proceeded on to a place called Pulo Lebar, where it
was arranged we were to sleep. This also had been the
site of a village, but no trace of human dwelling or culti-
vation was to be found : we reached it at half-past four in
the afternoon, having walked for upwards of eight hours.
We immediately set to work and erected two or three
sheds to sleep in, collecting the materials from the vegeta-
tion around us. The river here was broad, but very
rocky : the scenery highly romantic and beautiM. During
the night we were awakened by the approach of a party
of elephants, who seemed anxious to inquire our business
within their domains : fortunately they kept at some dis-
tance, and allowed us to remain unmolested. The natives
fancy that there are two kinds of elephants; the gaja
berkatnpong, those which always go in herds, and which
are seldom mischievous, and the gaja salunggaly or single
elephants, which are much larger and ferocious, going
about either singly or only two or three in company. It is
probable the latter kind are only the full-grown males.

" I must not omit to tell you, that in passing through
the forest we were, much to our inconvenience, greatly
annoyed by leeches ; they got into our boots and shoes,
which became filled with blood ; at night, too, they fell off
the leaves that sheltered us from the weather, and on

DESCRIPTION OF A GIGANTIC FLOWER. 343

awaking in the morning we found ourselves bleeding pro-
fiisely — ^these were a species of intruders we were not
prepared for.

'' The most important discovery throughout our journey
was made at this place. This was a gigantic flower^ of
which I can hardly attempt to give anything like a just
description. It is perhaps the largest and most magnifi-
cent flower in the world, and is so distinct from every
other flower, that I know not to what I can compare it —
its dimensions will astonish you — ^it measured across from
the eictremity of the petals rather more than a yard, the
nectarium was nine inches wide, and as deep ; estimated
to contain a gallon and a half of water, and the weight of
the whole flower fifteen pounds.

" The Sumatran name of this extraordinary produc-
tion is Petimun Sikinlili, or Devil's-Siri (beetle) box. It
is a native of the forests, particularly those of Passumah
Ulu Manna.

** This gigantic flower is parasite on the lower stems
and roots of the Cissus AngustifoUa of Box. It appears
at first in the form of a small round knob, which gradu-
ally increases in size. The flower-bud is invested by
numerous membranaceous sheaths, which surround it in
successive layers and expand as the bud enlarges, until
at length they form a cup round its base. These sheaths
or bracts are large, round, concave, of a firm membrana-
ceous consistence, and of a brown colour. The bud before
expansion is depressive, round, with five obtuse angles.

344 DESCRIPTION OF A GIGANTIC FLOWER.

nearly a foot in diameter, and of a deep dusky red. The
flower, when fully expanded, is> in point of size, the
wonder of the vegetable kingdom ; the breadth across^
from the top of the one petal to the top of the other, is
three feet. The cup may be estimated capable of con-
taining twelve pints, and the weight of the whole is from
twelve to fifteen pounds. The inside of the cup is of an
intense purple, and more or less densely yellow, with ^oft
flexible spines of the same colour : towards the mouth, it
is marked with numerous depressed spots of the purest
white, contrasting strongly with the purple of the sur-
rounding substance, which is considerably elevated on the
lower side. The petals are of a brick-red, with numerous
pustular spots of a lighter colour. The whole substance
of the flower is not less than half an inch thick, and of a
^rm fleshy consistence. It soon after expansion begins to
give out a smell of decaying animal matter. The fruit
never bursts, but the whole plant gradually rots away,
and the seeds mix with the putrid mass *.

" If I am successful in obtaining a draftsman, your
Grace shall have a perfect representation of it. I have
made a very rough sketch of it myself, but it is not in
that state that I could venture to present it. It seems to
be a flower unknown to most of the natives, as well as to

* Through the kindness of Mr. Lambert,, the Vice-President, the
Editor has obtained permission from tbe Linnsean Society to have
impressions of this singular production, which was engraved for their
Transactions.

VEGETATION OF MALAYAN FORESTS. 345

naturalists ; its colours red, yellow, and purple, and most
brilliant. The chemical composition being fiingous, it
would not keep; and not having sufficient spirits, we
could not preserve it entire. A part of it, with two buds
almost as big as a cluld^s head, will be sent home.

" There is nothing more striking in the Malayan forests
than the grandeur of the vegetation. The magnitude of
the flowers, creepers, and trees, contrasts strikingly with
the stunted and, I had almost said, pigmy vegetation of
England. Compared with our forest-trees, your largest
oak is a merqf dwarf. Here we have creepers and vines
entwining larger trees, and hanging suspended for more
than a hundred feet, — ^in girth not less than a man's body,
and many much thicker. The trees seldom under a hun-
dred, and generally approaching a hundred and sixty to
two hundred feet in height. One tree that we measured
was, in circumference, nine yards ! and this is nothing to
one I measured in Java. I must, however, proceed to
relate our journey.

'' From Pulo Lebar we started at half-past five, and
halted at eight to break&st. At eleven we reached the
Sindangar^ river, where we took some refreshment, and in
the evening, about half-past five, reached Barong Rasam.
The day's journey being most fatiguing, and not less than
thirty miles, entirely through a thick forest, and over
stupendous mountains, one of which, called the Sindangan
Mountain, could not have been less than between four
and five thousand feet high. Neither on this nor on the

346 VEGETATION OF MALAYAN FORESTS.

preceding day was there a vestige of population or culti-
vation; nature was throughout allowed to reign undis-
turbed; and from the traces of elephants in every direc-
tion, they alone of the animal kingdom seemed to have
explored the recesses of the forest.

" We got on, however, very well ; and though we were
all occasionally much fatigued, we did not complain. Lady
Baffles was a perfect heroine. The only misfortune at
this stage was a heavy fall of rain during the night, which
penetrated our leafy dwelling in every direction, and
soaked every one of the party to the skin. We were now
two days' march beyond the reach of suppUes ; many of
our Coolies had dropped off; some were fairly exhausted,
and we began to wish our journey at an end. We, how-
ever, contrived to make a good dinner on the remaining
fowl, and having plenty of rice and claret, did not com-
plain of our fare.

" On the next morning we started in better spirits,
having been met by one of the Chiefs of Passumah, who
came to welcome our approach, and to assure us, if we
walked fast, we should reach a village in the afternoon.
For the first part of the day our road was still over
stupendous mountains, sometimes in the beds of rivers
for miles, and at all times difficult ; but, about noon, we
came into a country that had once been cleared, and again
fell in with the Manna River, which we crossed on a raft
previously prepared for the purpose, many of the Chiefs
and people of Passumah having assembled to meet us.

REASONS FOR VISITING PASSUMAH. 347

We had still, however, a very steep ascent to encounter ;
but no sooner had we attained the summit, and bent our
steps downward, than our view opened upon one of the
finest countries I ever beheld, amply compensating us for
all the dreariness of the forest, and for aQ the fatigues we
had undergone ; perhaps the prospect was heightened by
the contrast ; but the country I now beheld reminded me
so much of scenes in Java, and was in every respect so
different to that on the coast, that I could not help ex-
pressing myself in raptures. As we descended, the scene
improved; we found ourselves in an immense amphi-
theatre, surrounded by mountains ten and twelve thou-
sand feet high ; the soil on which we stood rich beyond
description, and vegetation luxuriant and brilliant in
every direction. The people, too, seemed a new race, far
superior to those on the coast — ^tall, stout, and ingenuous.
They received us most hospitably, and conducted us to
the viQage of Nigri-Cayu, where we slept.

" I should not omit to inform you, that the immediate
occasion of my visiting Passumah was to reconcile con-
tending interests which had long distracted the country.
For the last ten years these people had been at war with
us, or rather we had been at war with them, for we ap-
peared to have been the aggressors throughout. I was
assured that my person would be endangered, that the
Passumahs were a savage ungovernable race, and that no
terms could ever be made with them, and I was not a Httle
gratified to find everything the reverse of what had been

348 CERBMONY OF A FUNERAL.

represented to me. I found them reasonable and indas-
trious^ — an agricultural race more sinned against than
sinning.

" In the vicinity of Nigri-Cayu were several hot springs,
and we soon succeeded in making very comfortable warm
baths.

'' On the next day we proceeded to Tanjung Alem (the
point of the world), another village in the Passumah
country, which we reached in about six hours' walk,
through one of the finest countries in the world, having
before us, nearly the whole way, the volcanic mountain
called Gunung Dempu, from which the smoke issued in
large volumes.

" At Tanjung Alem we remained two nights. We
found the villages in this part of the country most re-
spectable, many of them having more than five hundred
inhabitants ; the houses large, and on a different plan to
those on the coast, each village, which may rather be con-
sidered as a small town, has a fosse or ditch round it with
high palisades. We passed the site of two or three towns
which were represented to have been destroyed by the
petty hostilities between the Chiefs.

" During pur stay at Tanjung Alem, the Chiefs entered
into a treaty, by which they placed themselves under the
protection of the British Government, and thus all cause
of dispute and misunderstanding was at once set at rest.
I must also note another occurrence of moment : an old
woman of rank died, and we witnessed all the ceremonies.

CEREMONY OF A FUNERAL. 349

They commenced by all the females of the village repau*ing
to the house of the deceased^ and setting up a squall, some-
thing like the Irish howl, for an hour or two. After this
the body was removed to the Bali, or hall of audience,
where we were to dine ; we, however, preferred dining in
another place, but in the evening it was expected that we
should be present at the ceremony, which consisted of
dancing and singing, in the presence of the whole village,
assembled in the hall where the body lay. On the next
morning the head of the village killed a goat, and sprinkled
the blood about the house of the deceased, and all the
maidens within hail attended at the Bali, contending with
each other who should exclaim loudest, ' Oh mother ! come
back, mother come back !' This continued till they con-
cluded the body would keep no longer, when it was hurried
off, and quietly carried out of the village to a grave, in
which it was interred without further ceremony.

" The people, though professedly Mahomedans, seemed
more attached to their ancient worship and superstitions
than I expected. I clearly traced an ancient mythology,
and obtained the names of at least twenty gods, several of
whom are Hindus. In each of the villages we found a
Lang'gar, similar to that noticed at Merambung, but gene-
rally better constructed.

'' The utmost good-humour and affection seemed to
exist among the people of the village : they were as one
family, the men walking about holding each other by the
hand, and playing tricks with • each other like children.

350 RETURN TO BKNCOOLEN.

They were as fine a race as I ever beheld ; in general
about six feet high> and proportionably stout, clear and
clean skins^ and an open ingenuous countenance. They
seemed to have abundance of everything ; rice, the staple
food of the country, being five times as cheap as at Ben-
coolen, and every other article of produce in proportion.
The women and children were decorated with a profusion
of silver ornaments, and particularly with strings of dol-
lars and other coins hanging two or three deep round the
neck. It was not uncommon to see a child with a hundred
dollars round her neck. Every one seemed anxious for
medicine, and they cheerfiiUy agreed to be vaccinated.
The small-pox had latterly committed great ravages, and
the population of whole villages had fled into the woods
to avoid the contagion.

" We now thought of returning to the coast, and on the
24th set off for Manna by a different route to that by which
we had arrived. Our first day's journey was to Camu-
muan, which we reached a Httle before six in the evening,
after the hardest day's walk I ever experienced. We cal-
culated that we had walked more than thirty miles, and
over the worst of roads. Hitherto we had been fortunate
in our weather ; but befi)re we reached this place, a heavy
rain came on, and soaked us completely. The baggage
only came up in part and we were content to sleep in our
wet clothes, under the best shade we could find. No
wood would burn ; there was no moon ; it was already dark>
and we had no shelter erected. By perseverance, how^

RETURN TO BENCOOLEN. 351

ever, I made a tolerable place for Lady Raf&es, and after
selecting the smoothest stone I could find in the bed of a
river for a pillow^ we managed to pass a tolerably com-
fortable night. This is what is here called the Ulu Pino
Boad ; and we were encouraged to undertake long marches
in the hope of only sleeping in the woods one night, and in
this we fortunately succeeded."

This was, perhaps, the worst day's journey that the
party experienced. The route was very imperfectly known,
and a heavy rain rendered the forest dreary, and the
walk more than usually irksome. Sir Stamford and Dr.
Arnold took the only guide, and hastened forward in the
hope of reaching the river, and preparing a fire. It was
soon discovered that the remainder of the party had lost
their way ; the people dispersed to endeavour to trace the
steps of those who were gone before, all anxiously listen-
ing to catch the sound of water, that most delightftil of all
sounds to the weary traveller, in a strange country and a
hot climate. At last Mr. Presgrave and the Editor were
left entirely to themselves, and whilst debating what to do,
and pursuing their walk in no little anxiety, the duskiness
of the night, the pouring rain, and their wet clothes not
adding to their comfort, Mr. Presgrave met with an acci-
dent which had nearly proved serious, and caused some
alarm. He sunk into a large pit, (which was covered over
and concealed with leaves,) and disappeared entirely, and
with him sunk the hope of concluding the day's journey,
and his companion's spirit. He fortunately succeeded in

352 RKTURN TO BKNCOOLEN.

extricating himself, and after continuing their walk some
time longer, the rippling of water was plainly distinguished,
and the busy voices of those assembled on the banks of the
river soon obliterated the slight troubles they had been
under. A happy night succeeded, and after a few hours'
rest, the journey was pursued.

" The next day we reached Merambung, where we got
upon a raft, and were wafted down to the vicinity of
Manna in about seven hours. The passage down the
river was extremely romantic and grand ; it is one of the
most rapid rivers on the coast : we descended a rapid
almost every hundred yards.

" After proceeding from Manna to Cawoor, we returned
by the coast to Bencoolen, where we arrived on the 3rd of
June, to the no small astonishment of the colonists, who
were not inclined to believe it possible we could have
thought of such a journey.

" My attention was now directed to crossing the coun-
try to Palembang. The Sultan having applied for the
protection of the British Government, I despatched a
party to ascertain the practicability of the communication.
Before I left Bencoolen I had accounts of their safe
arrival. Tliey reached the navigable part of the Palem-
bang river in twelve days' march from Bencoolen ; the
party were about four hundred strong. This is the first
time the island of Sumatra has ever been crossed by an
European, much less by troops.

" I am now on my way to Padang to see whether I can

ARRIVAL AT MERAMRUNa. 353

not reach Menangkabu before the Dutch arrive, who claim
the place under the convention.

" Your Grace shall have the particulars of the tour to
Menangkabu^ the ancient capital of the Malay Empire, in
a separate letter ; and I will conclude this hasty journal
with assurances of the respect, esteem, and affection with
which I have the honour to remain, &c.,

" T. S. Raffles."

The pleasure of this journey was great to Sir Stamford,
as it opened to him a field of future usefulness. He saw
that it was not only the barren coast which he had to im-
prove, but a country rich in all the bounties of nature, and
a people ready and willing to profit by his influence and
advice. One old Chief, on taking leave, actually fell on
his neck and wept; and soon after walked the whole way
from Tanjungalum, the most distant place visited, to see
him again at Bencoolen. Such simple uncivilized people
are soon won by kiiidness ; vthey are like children, easy to
lead, hard to drive. It was Sir Stamford's extreme sim-
plicity of mind and manners that rendered him so pecu-
liarly attractive to them, as they are always ready to'be
kind and attentive, provided they meet with encourage-
ment and sympathy, thus aflbrding a proof that the heart
is the best teacher of true politeness. The Editor,, on
.reaching Merambung, laid down under the shade of a
tree, being much fatigued with walking : the rest: of the
party dispersed in various directions to make the necessary

VOL. I. 2 a

354 MODE OF DBSCENDINO THE RIVER ON RAFTS.

arrangements, and seek for shelter; when a Malay girl
approached with great grace of manners, and on being
asked if she wanted any thing, replied, '' No, but seeing
you were quite alone, I thought you might like to have a
little bichara (talk), and so I am come to offer you some
siri (betel), and sit beside you." And no courtier could
have discussed trifling general subjects in a better man-
ner, or have better refrained from asking questions which
were interesting to herself only ; her object was to enter-
tain a stranger, which she did with great refinement and
politeness.

The rafts alluded to in descending the Manna river,
were formed by a few bamboos fastened together with
cords. The Editor had wandered with some of the people
out of the direct course through the forest, and hearing a
noise of voices, approached the spot where.it happened
the rafts were making. On inquiry, the task which ought
to have been finished was only just commencing. As these
rafts were to have been at a spot much lower down the
river, in readiness to carry the party back to Manna, the
Editor, knowing Sir Stamford's anxiety to proceed, waited
till one was completed ; but the raft was too sUght, the
rapids too dangerous at this part of the river, for more
than three people to venture: accordingly, a pole was
fastened to the centre by which she was to hold, and stand
firm. A guide at each extremity then took their station,
each provided with a long pole ; and the raft glided down
the river, which was overhung with high rocks projecting

MODE OF DESCENDING THE RIVER ON RAFTS. 355

in various places. One man, on nearing the sharp turns
that continually occurred, and against which the rushing
of the river propelled the raft, prepared his pole, and
just before coming in contact struck it on the rock with
such force as to turn off the raft, which darted down the
faU until it would have come in contact with the rock on
the opposite side, when it was again struck off, and pro-
ceeded on to the next rapid. The dashing of the raft
through the water, the roaring noise, the complete immer-
sion in the spray, the momentary danger, the degree of
exertion which is necessary to preserve hold, the perfect
silenc# of each person — combined to create a degree of
excitement not easy to be described. The raft reached
Merambung in safety; when, the descent being compara-
tively easy, two chairs were fastened in the centre, and
the passage was a continued scene of pleasure, in admiring
the beauty of the surrounding country; until the men
suddenly stopped, and said they would not venture farther
in the dark, but that there was a village on the banks of
the river, where shelter might be found. It was still
early, but no inducement could prevail upon the inhabi-
tants to venture out of their houses, for fear of tigers ; and
it was only by desiring the Chief of the place to order a
party, that messengers were dispatched with lighted flam-
beaux, to procure horses from Manna to conclude the
journey.

Sir Stamford rested at Manna one day, and proceeded
down the coast to Cawoor : this part of the journey was

2a2

356 RETURN TO MANNA.

very trying : it was performed on horseback^ principally
on the sea-beach^ and in the middle of the day, on account
of tigers : the glare from the sea, the heat of the sand on
the beach, the vertical rays of a tropical sun, without any
shade, either natural or artificial, after the fatigue and ex-
posure abeady experienced, were distressing to all, and
proved fatal to one of the party. Dr. Arnold, on arriving
at Cawoor, was seized with a fever, where no medicine
could be procured. After remaining there one day with
him. Sir Stamford hastened back to Bencoolen to obtain
medical aid ; this journey was again necessarily performed
on horseback, as the route was impassable for any c^iage,
and nearly proved fatal to the whole party : in endeavour-
ing to pass a projection of rock, called by the natives the
place of death, the tide rose so rapidly, and the surf was so
high, that the horses began to stagger, the people from
the top of the rock screamed in despair, and it was with
the utmost difficulty the horses were turned, urged back,
and a longer route pursued through the forest. A circum-
stance occurred here which marks the superstitious fears
of the natives. The Coolies, in passing through the
forest, came upon a tiger crouched on the path; they
immediately stopped and addressed him in terms of sup-
plication, assuring him they were poor people carrying the
Tuan Basar (great man's luggage), who would be very
angry with them if they did not arrive in time, and there-
fore they implored permission to pass quietly and without
molestation. The tiger, being startled at their appearance.

EXTRACT FROM MR. PRESGRAVE's JOURNAL. 357

got up and walked quietly into the depths of the forest ;
and they came on perfectly satisfied that it was in conse-
quence of their petition that they passed in safety!

In October, 1818, Mr. Presgrave, Besident of Manna,
performed nearly the same journey, with the intention of
visiting the volcano on the summit of Gunung Dempo,
one of the highest mountains in that part of the isjand,
and gave the following additional particulars of this part
of the island.

" The first part of the journey was performed on horse-
back over beautiful plains : our party consisted of Mr.
Osbom (whose object was the dissemination of the bene-
fits of vaccination), myself, and four Bugguese soldiers
for the escort of our baggage, carried by twenty-five
coolies or porters. Whilst resting at Gunung Ajai, our
attention was suddenly roused by a great noise in the
village, the people running in all directions; we soon
learned the meaning of this tumult. A man from a dis-
tant village, whose father was shot when the Sepoys under
Colonel Clayton were sent, after the murder of Mr. Parr,
to destroy the villages in Pasumah Ulu Manna, having
arrived at the village, and heard that we were there, drew
his sword, and in a transport of rage and fury was pro-
ceeding to the door crying out for the white men, when he
was stopped by the people, disarmed, and conveyed by
them away. So bent was he on revenge, that he vowed
he would yet accomplish his purpose, for nothing but the
blood of an orang puti (white man) would satisfy the

358 EXTRACT FROM MR. PRESORAVE'S JOURNAL.

manes of his deceased father. The people are particii-
larly affected with goitres, some of which grow to an im-
mense size, and render the person a disgusting object.
Among themselves they do not look upon these monstrous
excreseences as deformities, nor do they seem to expe-*
rience any pain or inconvenience from them ; the inha-
bitants on the plains are entirely free from the disorder,
while as you approach the hills almost every individual is
affected with it. The natives attribute it to drinking the
water of some particular stream. The latter part of the
journey was principally over plains of a fine black loam of
very considerable depth, the horses' feet sinking in as
they passed over it. We approached the great mountain
on the fifth day, winding round the east side of it. On
our arrival here, we found one of our horses had died sud-
denly, by its having eaten some noxious herb which grows
amongst the grass. The natives ate part of the carcass;
pillaged the bones, and even before death robbed it of all
its mane and tail. As this was the first time a horse had
been in this part of the country, it excited much curiosity.
The people did not seem to entertain any fiatvourable idea
of our persons and colour. On entering a village to-day,
a tall spare figure, more resembling a spirit broken loose
from the infernal regions than a human being, with one of
the largest wens in his throat I have ever seen, came up
to us ; and after surveying us with an attentive eye for
some time, at length exclaimed aloud, ' These are the
white men we have so often heard of! Here they are like

EXTRACT FROM MR. PRKSGRAVE's JOURNAL. 359

devils.' For this remark he received a rebuke from his
countrymen^ and shmk away ashamed.

" We now began to suffer from want ; we had only two
bottles of wine left; we found considerable inconvenience
in procuring fowls and other supplies^ not from any scar-
city of these articles^ for they appeared to be in abun-
dance^ but on account of our rupees, which, to our daily
loss, we found were not current here. Spanish dollars
were in great request : the reason for this was that the
people of Pasumah Lobar were dependent on Palembang
for salt and their piece articles of clothing. We an-
nounced our intention of visiting the summit of Gunung
Dempo, or the Sacred Mountain, for in that light it is
viewed by the natives themselves, who conceive that the
guardian genius of the country has his abode in it, and
that the Devas and inferior deities have also their resi-
dence there. Our object was if possible to reach the
Crater. With this view we called for PangUmo, who had
been our guide from the coast, and whom we found on all
occasions a most useM and faithful man. Panglimo was
a man of desperate fortunes; he had been banished by
his relations, and his attachment to us he acknowledged
arose from the pecuniary aid which he received. Since
the Governor's journey to Pasumah, he said he had
realized upwards of a hundred and twenty dollars, which
had enabled him to discharge a large portion of his debts.
He confessed himself to have been one of the greatest
resaus (plunderers) in the whole country ; and, indeed.

360 VISIT TO THE SACRED MOUNTAIN.

from the countenance of the man, you would judge him tc
be capable of executing the most desperate deed : a few»
dollars would induce him to take away the life of his nearest
relation. Panglimo was the only man in all Pasumah who
would undertake the arduous task of conducting us to the
top of the mountain. Twenty dollars were to be the
amount of his reward for performing this service. Not
knowing the road, he succeeded, by the promise of five
doUars, in procuring a man who professed to be acquainted
with it to accompany him. This man was an Imam
(priest), whom, from the sanctity of his character, Pan-
glimo considered necessary to ensure success, as he would
deprecate the wrath of the deities, and render them pro-
pitious to our undertaking. This was to be accomplished
by previous sacrifice and fasting, and the day before we
set out the Imam performed this part of the ceremony by
killing a fowl.

" Oct, 27. — The Imam having announced this as a
lucky day (for we were obliged to give way to his ,pre-
judices), we set out with our fearless guide, our party,
including Coolies and attendants, amounting to eighteen
persons. We did not think it necessary to acquaint the
Chiefs with our design, anticipating that they would, in
consequence of their superstitious prejudices, make objec-
tions, raise difficidties, and perhaps finally hinder us from
accomplishing our object. We therefore told them that
we were going to the foot of the mountain, but did not
acquaint them that we intended to attempt to ascend to

VISIT TO THE SACRED MOUNTAIN. 361

any height. We set forward on our expedition on the.
morning, passing through several of their villages before
we came to the foot of the mountain. At a small eleva-
tion from its foot we saw several of the magnificent flowers-
found by the Governor on his tour to Pasumah Ulu
Manna, (Rafflesia Arnoldi.) Some were fuU blown,
others in the bud, and the buds of others were just
emerging from darkness. We continued our ascent,
marking the spots where the flowers grew, in order that
we might take some of them with us as specimens on our-
return. Night was now drawing on, and finding ourselves^^
fatigued, Ave began to look out for a convenient spot on
which to raise our huts. Hearing the rushing of water
below us, we were induced to descend, in hopes of obtain-
ing a good supply of water, which appeared to be scarce
in this place. On descending a deep ravine we found our-
selves on the banks of the river Salangis. This river runs
through the whole of the Pasumah Lobar country, in an
easterly direction, and at last empties itself into that of
Palembang. In this place the river is very narrow ; its
banks are formed of a black sand, resembling, except in
colour, that of the sea-beach. The silence of the stream
is here interrupted by an abrupt cataract, over which the
water is precipitated with great impetuosity : this was the
cause of the noise we heard for the greater part of the
afternoon. We at first pitched our tent opposite to the
cataract, but the rushing of the water caused a draught of
air which pierced so keenly, that we were obliged to remove

362 ASCENT OF THE SACRED MOUNTAIN.

it to a greater distance. At times there was such a strong
smell of sulphur^ that it became almost intolerable. The
water was also so impregnated with this mineral as to
render it undrinkable, and we were obliged to make use of
what we could catch from the side of the rock.

" On examining our provisions, we found the steward
had laid in so scanty a stock as would serve the whole of
our party only another day : we therefore sent back
several of our followers, taking with us only such as were
absolutely necessary. The number of our party thus cur-
tailedj consisted of eleven ; viz., Mr. Church, Mr. Cud-
lipp, myself, three servants, three Coolies, and the two
guides.

*' Oct 28. — ^Early in the morning, after partaking of a
slight breakfast, not daring to indulge lest our stock
should fail us before we had completed our undertaking,
we ascended from this singular spot, and made another
effort to gain the summit of our ambition. We reached
the top of the ravine, and bending our course W.N.W.,
proceeded through deep forests, in which no human traces
were to be discovered. Our only path was one that had
been opened to us by the passage of elephants : the traces
of these masters of the desert were visible in every direc-
tion. We passed through what is called by the natives
the region of tigers : the superstitious inhabitants of the
surrounding country imagine that there is a stream ia
these parts, which when passed over by a human being,
possesses the virtue of transforming him to that ferocious

ASCENT OF THE SACRED MOUNTAIN. 363

animal and on his return^ of restoring him to his original
shape. From this fabulous story we expected to find the
woods infested with tig€^s ; but to our astonishment we
discovered nothing that could lead us to suppose that
these animals had deserted the plains to take up their
abode in the mountain. During the day we remarked
the footsteps of the rhinoceros and the wild goat. Our
two guides were employed as we proceeded in cutting the
small and low branch^, and notching the trunks of trees
which grew in our path, in order to serve as marks on our
return, to prevent the possibility of our wandering from
the right course. Our ascent during the day was pretty
gradual and regular ; at intervals, however, this regularity
was interrupted by abrupt acclivities of one hundred feet ;
and having gained the top of these the ascent became less
steep, and in some places almost subsided into a plain.
We passed over four of these Tanga Gunung* to-day.
Towards evening we found ourselves beyond the deep
wood. The tall and majestic trees of the forest seemed
suddenly to have vanished from our view, and those of a
smaller and more sickly growth to have taken their place.
The road became almost impassable on account of thorns
and briers, which were so thickly interwoven as to present
an almost insurmountable obstacle to our progress. The
poor and exhausted Coolies with the greatest difficulty
dragged their burdens through these formidable oppo-

* So called by the natives; the term signifies ladders qf the
mountain.

364 ASCENT OF THE SACRED MOUNTAIN.

nents : indeed we, who were not encumbered with any
tiling extraneous, could scarcely pass ; the naked bodies
of our servants gushed with blood in every part, and our
own clothes were torn off our backs. We ate nothing
during the day excepting some of the fruit of the forests^
called by the natives buwah salak. Night now came on .
apace, and we looked for a stream of water to enable us
to prepare our evening fare, but none could we discover ;
so we were obhged to content ourselves with a small quan-
tity of muddy water, found in a hollow place made by
some animal, which, from the traces in the neighbourhood,
we supposed to be the rhinoceros.

" Having rested a little from the fatigues of the day, in
vain we looked for the plains we had left yesterday morning ;
the face of the earth below was concealed from our sight ;
clouds and darkness rolled under our feet. We found
ourselves above the summit of the surrounding mountains ;
and, for the first time in our Uves, heard the thunder roll
beneath us. The heavens above frowned, as in anger at
the presumption of man daring to enter these aerial abodes;
and the roaring of the volcano at intervals impressed us
with a kind of sacred awe, as if we had in reality approached
the habitation of celestial beings. These were the only
forerunners of the deluge which was to follow. The
gloomy spot in which we were doomed to pass the night far
surpassed the power of description. On the one side, the
steep acclivity of the mountain ; on the other a deep pre-
cipice ; not a tree to . afford us a covering or protection

ASCENT OF THE SACRED MOUNTAIN. 365

from the threatening storm, and scarcely a bit of dry wood
to light a fire. In this situation we were enveloped in
total darkness. The thunder grew louder, the lightning
more vivid, while the volcano above us continued its
frightful roarings. At length the storm burst upon us in
all its fiiry ; our light and fire were suddenly extinguished,
we were necessitated to eat in the dark a half-prepared
meal. We then sat down to wait the holding up of the
rain, but we soon lost all hope of a calm interval. The
storm continued with unabated violence until near day-
light. Fatigued by the arduous task of the day, and with
little to eat, we would fain have relieved our troubles by
sleep ; but to sleep in our condition was certain death.
Besides the rain which poured in at every part of our hut,
the torrent which rushed down the mountain threatened
to sweep us below. We wrapped ourselves up in blankets,
but these were very soon soaked through ; indeed we ap-
peared to be sitting in the bed of a river, rather than on
firm ground. The air was bitterly cold; our shivering
people murmured loudly: we had never felt it so cold
since we left England. If we attempted to talk or laugh,
our guide, the Imam, in a tremulous voice, begged we
would be silent, and not provoke the already angry gods.
We asked whence proceeded the roarings we heard above
us. Panglimo told us they came from the telago, or crater
of the volcano, and desired we would ask no questions
about this frightftil place. Towards morning the rain in
some degree abated, when Messrs. Church and Cudlipp

366 ASCENT OF THE SACRED MOUNTAIN.

very imprudently went to sleep in the wet condition in
which they were. Daylight at length made its appear-
ance> and again the men attempted to light fires, which
were most desirable ; for, from the uncomfortable manner
in which we passed the night, our followers were half dead
with hunger, cold, and wet ; and, indeed, although two of
us had been accustomed to the severities of an European
winter, we were all most happy to enjoy the comfort of a
fire-side, even in the heart of Sumatra.

" Oct. 29. — ^Having partaken of a little unsavoury rice
without even salt or chilies to render it palatable, we pre-
pared for another day s labour. From the difficulty we
experienced yesterday in bringing the baggage as far as
this, we conceived that greater obstacles lay before us. We
therefore resolved to leave the Coolies and baggage in the
hut, and proceeding unencumbered to the summit of the
mountain, return if possible to the place where we slept
the last night, before the close of the day, which our guide
told us could be accomplished. We did not proceed far
before we fi^und that we were correct in regard to the
difficulties we had anticipated: for now the ascent was
steep, and the briers became thicker and more closely
entwined together, so that it was an absolute rmpossibihty
to penetrate through them. Here we began to look on
our object as unattainable : we unsuccessfully sought for
some sort of path along which we might pass. The same
insurmountable obstacles beset us on all sides, and lio
choice appeared to be left but to retrace our steps to the

ASCENT OF THE SACRED MOUNTAIN. 367

hut : yet when we turned our heads and beheld the lofty
summit above us, and volumes of datk smoke rolling on
its dusky and naked top, we felt an irresistible desire to
surmount every difficulty, and face every danger. Our
progress being thus impeded, we could not help noticing
the strange aspect of the scene aroimd us ; the grand ma-
jestic trees of the forest, whose venerable trunks had with-
stood the shocks and storms of ages, no longer struck our
eyes, but in their stead thorns and briers, and trees of a
diminutive growth* What was most singular, all around
us were seen the dead trunks of trees, some of which had
attained to a large size and considerable height, standing
erect without a single branch. All these trunks being
black, as if burnt by lightning, we conceived it probable
that some violent shock of nature, not far back, had re-
duced the former flourishing wood to its present blasted
condition. Perhaps some recent eruption from the vol-
cano might have produced this effect; or might not
noxious exhalations arising from the crater have checked,
and nearly destroyed vegetation in this part ? We were
sensible of a very strong smell of sulphur.

'' It was now for the first time that we saw the stout-
hearted Panglimo shrink from difficulty. The man who
seemed calculated to perform the labours of Hercules, and
who ever made it his boast that he had encountered danger
in every shape, was the first to sound a retreat. ' You
see,' said he, ' the gods are not propitious to our under-
taking : — ^they have shut up the road against us : — ^they

368 ASCENT OF THE SACRED MOUNTAIN.

will bewilder us in this desert place : — we cannot proceed/
We all appeared to incline to this advice, but each felt
ashamed of a defeat. Again we endeavoured to penetrate
the thick briers ; again Panglimo turned pale : ' It is vain
to contend against the gods/ he said, and sat down. I
rallied him, and taking the sword, which now served as a
pruning-hook, from his hand, endeavoured to cut through
the brambles ; but their stems were so tough and closely
interwoven that it made no impression. This was sufficient
for Panglimo, who started up, and mounting with his
naked feet upon the thorns, instead of forcing a passage
through them, walked on the top; we all followed him,
and in this way proceeded, by slow degrees, for an hour or
two. Having surmounted this formidable obstacle, we
met with another not less discouraging. Instead of thorns
and briers, we now had to walk over the trunks of trees,
that were thrown down and piled on each other. They
appeared to have lain in this state for a long time, for some
were decayed, others decaying, and the whole covered over
with a sort of vegetation which sprang from their mould.

" We were two or three hours walking over these wrecks
of the forests, at the imminent hazard of slipping through
the interstices of the trunks, and thus of being buried
alive, or else of breaking our bones. During the whole
•time we did not once set our foot on firm ground, or see
the soil over which we were walking, nor by putting our
sticks through could we reach the bottom. The vegetation
of ages appeared to be piled up here in a widely-extended

ASCENT OF. THE SACRED MOUNTAIN. 369

and confused mass ; and we seemed to have approached
the brink of general destruction and desolation. We found
that we were on, a ridge of the mountain ; on each side of
us was a precipice of immense depth. The ridge grew
narrower at every step. The day was bright, and looking
down, the country immediately subjected to our. view was
beyond imagination beautiful ; extensive plains, scattered
over with smoking villages : pools of water reflecting the
rays of the sun ; to the north the Musi river, called by
these people the sea of Musi. Having stayed a short time
to contemplate this scene, we again set forward, and made
another effort to gain the top of the mountain. Our path
was now comparatively smooth, but of steep ascent ;. we
no longer found any of our former obstacles. The only
vegetation on this part is a. sort of shrub, very much re-
sembling the box- tree : the natives caU it Kayu umurpan-
jang, or the tree of long life, and say it is only to be met
with on the top of this mountain. The shrub is about six
feet high, and appears to be checked iu its growth. Its
branches and leaves were covered with a kind of dust,
which being shaken off as we passed along, proved very
troublesome and disagreeable, almost choking us. We
thought this rather singular, as the rain which fell the pre-
ceding night, if it had reached this part, ought to have
entirely washed away the dust, but the earth appeared as
dry as the trees. Although we had not, as I have just
noticed, our former difficulties , to encounter, we were not
less. affected by feelings of a ^different nature. Our path
VOL. I. 2 b

370 ASCENT OF THE SACRED MOUNTAIN.

had now become less than two fathoms wide^ bounded by
deep precipices^ the bottom of which the eye could not
penetrate, and whose naked sides filled us with terror, and
narrowing at every step, we were threatened with being
ingulphed in these unfathomable depths. We had now
gained the summit of this narrow ridge ; and disappoint-
ment was the only recompense we found for our troubles
and difficulties, for our guide told us we had ascended the
wrong ridge, and could not get to the crater, which was
the grand object we had in view when we undertook the
task ; nor were we even on the highest part of the mountain,
for the place where we stood was overtopped by Gunung
Berapi : this was entirely bare, and might be three or
fi^ur hundred feet above where we stood. Gunung Berapi
is another peak of this great mountain. There are in all
three, to which the natives give separate names, viz.,
Gunung Dempo, Gunung Lumut, and Gunung Berapi.
Gunung Lumut we did not see, it being on the other side
of Gunung Berapi ; this last, as its name points out, is
the one connected with the volcano. We were still doomed
to disappointment ; for the brightness of the day became
overclouded, and nothing could be seen from this elevated
situation but the tops of surrounding mountains, and a
white mist at our feet, which, like a sheet, veiled from us
the face of the earth. We now consulted whether we
should make any further attempt to attain our object, but
all agreed in the impossibility of succeeding : besides, we
had not a grain of rice or other food with us, and only

ASCENT OP THE SACRED MOUNTAIN. 371

another scanty meal left at the hut, which we must reach
before night.

" Oct, 30. — If any thing, we passed a worse night than
the one we have aheady described. We awoke at day-
light, or rather did not sleep all night, on account of the
wet and cold. Boat-cloaks and blankets were of no use ;
they were wet through in a few minutes, and only made
our bodies more chilly. Having partaken of a half break-
fast, we set forward on our return, retracing our footsteps,
which were easily found by the marks and cuttings of the
trees which were made on our ascent. The spot where we
spent our last two nights is situated rather more than two-
thirds up the mountain. Being tired of the woods, we re-
solved to make a forced march and reach the village of
Sawah Batuhan before night. We stopped to take three
specimens of the Krabut flower (Rafflesia Amoldi), two
full-blown, and one bud. As I have noticed before, the
spot on which these extraordinary flowers grow is rather
elevated. No part of the plant is seen above ground ex-
cept the flower, which, decked in all the splendour of
nature, bursts forth to Ught from a root which runs hori-
zontally on the ground. The natives appeared not to be
well acquainted with it, and gave us a confused account of
it, from which we collected that there are two species of
the krabut, one of which springs up into a shrub and bears
flowers rather diflerent from those which we now saw ; in
the other, no part except the flower makes its appearance
above ground, without leaves and without stem. — About

2b2

372 EXTRACT FROM MR. PRESGRA^e's JOURNAL.

two o'clock in the afternoon we reached the villages, thank-
ful that we had once more extricated ourselves from- such
frightful wilds.

"As the above extracts from my journal will afford a
pretty good idea of the sort of people we were among, and
the difficulties we had to encounter, I shall not detain you
with the details of our journey back to Manna, but attempt
a general sketch of the country and inhabitants which we
visited; noting only by the way that on our arrival at
Tanjung Alam (the end of the world), many inquiries
were made after Tuan Adam. Having no acquaintance
with Adam, we were surprised at the entreaty and earnest-
ness with which the inquiry was made ; and it was some
time before we found that Tuan Adam was no other per-
sonage than Madame Besar, or Lady Raffles, the name by
which she is known to this people. Madame, it appears,
was metamorphosed by them into Adam, a very pardonable
mistake, considering that they look upon Adam as some
very extraordinary person, and Lady Raffles as no less so,
in having overcome such difficulties, and being the first
European lady who had visited their country.

'* The chief mountains in this neighbourhood, in the
western range, are Gunung Dempo, Gunung Lumut, and
Gunung Berapi, which form one great mountain, by far
the highest in this part, being conspicuous over all' the
rest, and visible from Fort Marlborough, bearing from
Manna N.N.E., and from Padang Guchei N. With
regard to the height of this mountain, it would be but

EXTRACT FROM MR. PRESGRAVE's JOURNAL. 373

mere- conjecture if I were to estimate it at twelve c»
thirteen thousand feet above the level of the sea ; but the
eye is easily deceived, and not having been accustomed to
judge of heights, I may be far from correct. We may
perhaps judge something from the time we were ascendr
ing. We commenced about ten o'clock on the 27th of
October ; about half-past four we stopped for the night ;
at seven the next day we set forward again, and travelled
till five o'clock; the following morning we recommenced
at seven, and reached as far as we were able to go about
"half-past one o'clock, making altogether twenty-four
hours. Allowances must be made for the badness of the
roads, and the many impediments we met with in the last
third part of our journey. Although we were so long in
ascending, we were not more than ten hours in descend-
ing, having started at six from our hut, which we guessed
to be two-thirds of the height of the mountain, we
reached the foot at about four o'clock or past. The
highest peak (Jambul Beniul) of the ranges which we
passed over between the coast and Passumah Ulu Manna,
did not occupy more than three or four hours, or scarcely
so long. The temperature of the atmosphere on the top
of this mountain was very low ; although we discovered
neither snow nor ice, yet from what some of the natives
told us, we were led to think that both have been seen
there. They related a story of three persons who were
frozen to deaths ' mati ka krasan,' stiffened or hardened to

374 EXTRACT FROM MR. PRfiSORAVE S JOURNAL.

deatli. I cannot state the precise degree of temperature
for want of a thermometer, though I should think Fahren-
heit's would have been as low as thirty-five degrees before
sunrise. We were informed by some of the natives, that
within their memory the volcano, which now appeals to
be extinct, had been known to emit flames, covering the
trees and lands of the adjacent country with white ashes.
This emission was accompanied with a loud noise, that
filled the whole country with alarm. The singular ap-
pearance of the trees near to the top of the mountain,
mentioned in another place, gives some colour to this
report ; hence we may probably account for large trees
being deprived of every branch, and the outer part of
their trunks, the whole being too solid a substance to be
entirely consumed, being burnt black as a cinder. But
from the best information we could collect on the subject^
it appears highly probable that the thick smoke seen to
issue from the side of the mountain is an aqueous vapour
arising from a hot spring, situated in the crater of the
volcano. The water of this spring has a constant motion,
sometimes greater, and sometimes less, alternately rising
and sinking, and when this agitation is greatest, it is
attended with the emission of a dark voliume of smoke;
thus is immediately preceded by a loud noise resembling
thunder, only of shorter duration. I have myself observed
the smoke issuing forth at intervals of a few minutes, as if
repeated explosions had taken place within the crater. —

EXTRACT FROM MR. PRESGRAVE's JOURNAL. 375

Dempo is the only mountain in this part that is honoured
with the epithet of Gunung, all the rest being called
Bukit or hill.

^' We made inquiry respecting the large lake said
to be situated somewhere in these parts, but could not
learn that one existed. Perhaps the jealousy of the
people might take care to conceal the knowledge of it
from us.

^ i^ * * *

" The people of Pasumah Lebar have traditionary
reports of their descent from the Javanese. They relate
that in the time of the prosperity of the kingdom of Maja-
pahit, two persons^ a brother and sister, with several fol-
lowers, whose names and title they told me, but which I
have now forgotten, left that kingdom, and landing on
the eastern shores of this island, the female settled at
Palembang, where, in a short time, she became a powerM
princess; but the brother, travelling more inland from
that place, settled himself in the fertile valley of Pasumah.
In this way the country was first possessed and peopled ;
and hence the origin of the present race, which in many
respects, I conceive, bears considerable analogy to the
people of Java.

*' In their persons the inhabitants of Pasumah Lebar,
generally speaking, are not so tall and robust as those of
Pasumah Ulu Manna. This may be attributed to the
difference of the climate, and mountainous situation of the
latter, as more adapted to form a strong and robust frame

37H EXTRACT FROM MR. PRESGRAVli's JOURNAL.

of body, than the level plains of the former. Their de-
portment is sedate and grave. The higher class are
respectful and courteous in their manners. Their virtues
are, perhaps, of a higher order than we meet with on the
coast. Their hospitality to strangers is unbounded, and
a violation of its law, in their estimation, would be little
less than a crime of the greatest magnitude.

" The lines are almost as applicable to them as to the
Scottish Highlander : —

And stranger is a holy name ;
Guidance and rest, and food and fire,
In vain he never must require.

*' They are open and generous, and appear to be not
destitute of that delicacy of feeling usually termed, honour.
Insult would be instantly repelled, and injury revenged,
not by the secret dagger concealed under the screen of
darkness, but publicly and in the face of day. They are
chaste and temperate, of a bold and daring disposition,
but passionate and hasty: with a strong attachment to
their ancient customs, they look upon all innovation as a
departure from truth and justice ; they are extremely
independent, and jealous of any infringement of their
ancient liberties. They are industrious, and less infected
with the vice of gambling than the Company's subjects.
Opium smoking is unknown among them ; they look upon
that drug as poison. On the other hand, they have little
regard for truth, and think but lightly of the violation of
an oath. They have no regard to honesty or fairness of

EXTRACT FROM MR. PRESGRAVE's JOURNAL. 377

dealing in their transactions, but make a merit of cheat-
ing. They are more warlike than the inhabitants of the
coasts and are extremely dexterous in the use of their
weapons. They cannot bear to hear the term Coolie
applied to them, and absolutely reftised to assist us in

carrpng our baggage under that name.

'' They are very temperate in their diet, and seldom
eat flesh of any kind. The bufialo, not being a native of
their plains, is slain only on occasions of importance.
Goat's flesh, although more plentiful, and fowls, which are
abundant, are seldom eaten, except in their offerings to
the gods. Swine's flesh is not eaten; but, besides this,
they have few prejudices with regard to food. They are
by no means delicate this way ; and the entrails of the
fowls killed for our dinner were eagerly picked up, and,
after undergoing some preparations, greedily devoured.

'' For this purpose they attended the cook daily in his
culinary operations, to carry off every thing he threw away.
They do not even scruple to eat the carcass of an animal
found dead, although they know not how it came by its
death : thus the carcass of the unfortunate horse that died
in one of the villages was almost wholly devoured by
them, and some declared they had made a hearty meal
from it.

" The only inebriating drink made use of by them is a
fermented liquor, prepared from rice, and termed brum:
this is drunk only at festivals. They have the same aver-
sion to milk, and every preparation from it, as the Java-

378 EXTRACT FRORf MR. PRESGRAVE's JOURNAL.

nese and other Eastern people. A chief being asked
whether he would take milk with his tea, replied that he
was not an infant.

" The villages are in general neat and clean, the houses
well built, and not ill adapted for convenience. They are
tolerably commodious and airy ; many of them are con-
structed of plank, particularly those of the Chiefs, and are
ornamented with carved work.

'* Their language is not so much peculiar to themselves
as the manner of pronouncing it : except in this, it differs
little from that spoken in the interior of Manna. It has
no words not to be found in languages of the neighboi^-
ing countries ; in other respects it is the same as that
spoken by the people on the coast from Sellibar to Kawa,
where another dialect, and different usages, are found to
commence, bearing a near resemblance to those of Lam-
pung. The dialect of Serawiis also called Sambilan Lura,
and includes the rivers of Sillabar, Angalum, Salumah,
Tallo, Alas, Pino, Manna, Beneannon, and Padang Guchie,
throughout which the same language and customs prevail.
This last may be considered almost distinct from the
Malayan. About one-fifth of it may consist of Malayan
words, but the remaining four bear no affinity to that lan-
guage. A native Malay, previously unacquainted with it,
woidd not understand a conversation carried on between
two persons in the Bhasa Serawi ; but from the frequent
intercourse between the people of the district already
mentioned and the Malays, the language of the latter is

EXTRACT FROM MR. PRESGRAVE's JOURNAL. 379

mutually understood. But to return to the Pasumahs, it
is difficult even for a Serawi man to understand clearly what
they say ; this arises chiefly from the peculiar utterance
given by them to their words, their sounds being more
guttural. All the words, which, by the natives of the
coast, are made to terminate in a simple o, by these peo-
ple have a sound almost like eu or euh, as in the last sylla-
ble of diew, but pronounced much longer and more forcibly ;
€, g,, the Malay word kuda, or, as pronounced by the
natives of this Island, kudo, is by the Pasumahs called
kudeuh, and kata or kato, kateuh ; maro, or marah, ma-
reuh. These people are not ignorant of writing. They
use the characters which Mr. Marsden calls Rejang, but
which are not peculiar to those people. The mode of
writing is on pieces of split bamboo, on which they cut or
scratch the letters with the point of a knife or sewar. They
seldom use it but to send a message to a distant person,
or to acquaint him with any piece of news: thus, for
instance, a despairing swain inscribes his love verses
(pantuns), and conveys them to his mistress. ' They have
no written memorials of past transactions or events,
nothing in the form of history, popular tales, or writings
of any other kind, with the exception of a few forms of
prayer used in their religious ceremonies.

" In travelling through their viQages, the first thing that
strikes the eye of a stranger is the temple, a small square
building, erected always in the centre of it. This proves,
not only that they have a religion, but that they possess a

380 WRITING SUPERNATURAL BEINGS.

considerable degree of attachment to it. This religion is
undoubtedly Hindu, with a slight admixture of Mahomed-
anism, which seems, at some time or other, to have made
some progress among them. Circumcision is universally
practised, and they manifest the same prejudice to swine's
flesh that the professors of the Mahomedan religion do ;
but it is chiefly, nay almost entirely, in these particulars
that the ceremonies and institutions of the one bear any
resemblance to those of the other. It is rather remarkable
that one tribe, called Anack Semundo^ more strictly adheres
to the tenets of the religion of Mahomet. They read the
Koran, pray at the stated periods of the day, practise
charity, which, according to the Mahomedans, consists
entirely in giving alms, keep the puaso, or feast of Bama-
zan, with other observances of that religion. The head of
this tribe is called Nabi Panghulu. Both the jujur and
ambil anak marriages are very rare among them, the
Semundo mode being almost exclusively adopted. But to
return, although the greater part of the inhabitants of this
country, as I have already said, are Pagans,-they never-
theless worship neither idols nor external objects, neither
have they any order of priesthood. They have no idea of
one eternal Supreme Being, who made all things ; although
they frequently make use of the expression Allah Tuah,
the term by which the Arabians express that idea, and,
borrowing from the latter, which the Malays use to express
the same idea ; but the more ignorant Pasumah affixes no
such meaning to it. Ask him what he means by it, and

' WRITING— SUPERNATURAL BEINGS. 381

he replies, it is one of the Dewas. In the mythology of
these people, Dewas . are the highest order of beings,
whom they regard with superstitious reverence. They
are looked upon as benignant spirits, whose influence is
beneficial to the human race. These divinities listen to, the
prayers, and are pleased with the sacrifices offered to them
by mortals. They know all that passes on earth ; they
have a general superintendence over mankind andi all
mundane affairs; the destinies of men are in their hands,
and all events are at their disposal. To these benignant
beings man is indebted for the principle of life, and this
debt is continually increasing through every instant of his
existence, for the preservation and maintenance of that
principle within him. There appear to be orders and
gradations of these beings ; they are not all of the same
importance to man. They have their abodes on the earth,
and choose different parts of its surface for their habita-
tions ; some resort to the deepest and most gloomy woods
and forests ; some to hills and mountains ; some preside
over the rushing torrent, while others, delighted with the
gentle murmurs of the Hmpid stream, retire to its shady
banks. Particular trees are devoted to these deities :
thus the sacred bringin tree, or the venerable banyan,
spreads forth its shade in a peculiar manner, in order to
shelter the sacred habitation of a Dewa ; even the kalapo
gading (a variety of the cocoa-nut tree), in the opinion of
these superstitious people, is under the benign tot influ-

382 POPULAR SUPERSTITIONS — ^INVISIBLE MEN.

ence of a holy Dewa> who resides in its branches, and pro-
duces a more excellent sort of fruit.

'^ But besides these there is another order of beings,
whose influence is fiur less benignant. They are called
Jins, or evil spirits, and are considered to be the authors
of evil. All the misfortunes and calamities attendant on
human life proceed from them. They likewise have their
residence on different parts of the earth ; and should a
man by accident approach the unhallowed spot, he usually
feels the anger of these resentfiil spirits.

" There is stiU another class of beings, who, in regard
to the qualities and attributes ascribed to them, appear to
possess a middle rank between the Dewas and the Jins,
approaching much nearer to the nature of the former.
They are termed Orang Alus — that is, fine, impalpable,
or invisible men. I do not know the preeiae office or
nature of this fairy tribe. They seem to be a mixture of
material and immaterial beings, partaking of the nature
of men and spirits. I have seen a man who, it was said,
was wedded to one of these Orang Alus. I concluded
his children partook of the nature of their mother, for
although he had a large &mily, nobody had ever seen
one. The name of the man was Dupati Sajo Wani ; in
appearance he much resembled a wizard. Such are the
ridiculous ideas of this people ! But are they more gross
than those entertained by the Greeks and Bomans with
regard td their deities ?

TRANSMIGRATION — SACRIFICE TO THE MANES. 383

'' The manes of their ancestors are held in the highest
veneration^ and are esteemed not inferior to the gods
themselves. They suppose them to take concern in the
wel&re of their posterity, over whom they are always
watchfiiL They have a strong regard and attachment to
the spot where their forefathers were interred; and if
Alexander the Great had penetrated into this quarter of
the globe, and attempted to molest the natives in their
woods and forests, they would have sent him the same
reply that the ancient Scythians did. They have a strong
persuasion in the doctrine of the metempsychosis, though,
I beUeve, it is only particular animals which are allotted
to the reception of the souls of the dead : nor need these,
in temper and disposition, bear any resemblance to those
of the persons while Hving whose souls are transfiised
into them. The tiger is the animal they look upon as
most generally animated by a human soul. This is the
reason why they regard that ferocious beast almost as
sacred, and treat it with so much undeserved mildness
and respect. Even when its jaws are polluted with
human gore, a man cannot be prevailed on to kill it in
order to prevent it from repeating its bloody feast. If a
near relation have fallen its victim, he will perhaps be
roused to revenge his death; yet sometimes, even in this,
his superstitious prejudices and fears get the better of his
ardent thirst for revenge.

'' When a man finds himself plunged in distress, and
the dark clouds of adversity gathering over his head, he

384 TRANSMIGRATION — SACRIFICE TO THE MANES.

repairs to the temple or . kramat, there to propitiate the
Dewas, and to invoke the manes of his ancestors to assist
him under his sufferings. This is done by sacrificing a
buffalo, a goat, or even a fowl, according to the urgency of
the occasion, and by prayer and fasting. I have been
told that some have remained in a state of fasting for
fourteen days, during the whole of which time they have
tasted not a morsel of food ; a little quantity of water was
allowed. Others have supported it for seven days, but
two or three is the general period for this sort of holy
penance. At this time they cannot be said to pray ; part
of the time being spent in silently lamenting their dis-
tress, and uttering a few words, the purport of which they
do not understand. But the chief merit of this ceremony
consists in calling upon their Dewas by their proper titles,
and in due order ; for each has its particular title and
rank. They then repeat the names of their nenek puyang,
or forefathers, and entreat them to deliver them from their
existing difficulties. In the language of the country this
mode of invoking the deities is termed bertarak, but it is
chiefly in cases of the most pressing calamity that they
have recourse to it : for instance, in the time of war, they
frequently go through this austere ceremony in order to
ensure success. As I have somewhere remarked, Gunung
Dempu is looked upon as the sacred abode of the Dewas,
and the souls of their ancestors occupy the regions of the

mountains."

* * ♦ * *

CHAPTER XII.

Sir S, Rqffleg at Bencoolen— Proceeds to Padang — Is anxious to go to
Menangkabu— ^Considered impracticable— Dangers represented —
Determines to make the attempt — Difficulty of the road— Beauty
of the country — Course up the river — Thermometer — Height of
the mountain — Description of the Tiga Bias country and people
— Cattle — Horses — Clothing of the people — Houses— View of the
Lake of Sincara — Description of it — Toum of Simawang — Coun-
try compared to that of Java — Arrived at Suruasa — Discovery of
an inscription in the Kawi character — Description of Menang-
kabu — Hindu image similar to those qf Java — Height of the city
— Return to the Lake — Description of crossing it — Minerals —
Vegetables — Agriculture— Return to Bencoolen— Death of Dr.
Arnold,

A MONTH was passed at Bencoolen in attending to the
duties of the settlement. The only event which occurred
was a successful attempt to cross the island from Ben-
coolen to Palembang. The following details are con-
tained in the extract of a letter to Mr. Marsden : —

" July, 1818.
" My dear Sir,

" I thought it would not be long before we found

our way across the island. Finding it necessary to send

a mission with a detachment of Sepoys to Palembang, I

marched them across the hills, and have the pleasure to

VOL. I. 2 c

386 PROCEEDS TO PADANG.

inform you, that the party reached Muara Billiti on the
Palembang river, where boats were in readiness to take
them to Palembang in nine days from their leaving Ben-
coolen, without difficulty or casualty ; not a sick man or a
single want the whole way. They expected to reach Pa-
lembang in two days more, making eleven from their
departure.

* # * # «F

" I have, with Lady Raffles and Dr. Arnold, visited the
Pasumah country, which is equal to anything in Java.
We had the pleasure of spending three nights in the
forests, and of sometimes walking thirty miles in the day ;
but we are now so accustomed to exploring, that we are
not sensible of the fatigue.

'' I am building a bungalow on the first range of hills
at the back of Bencoolen, on Gunung Kabut, the Hill of
Mists, where we have a cool cHmate.

♦ 4e 4e * *

" I shall write you more ftdly by ' The Lady Raffles.'
In the meantime, accept our united wishes for your health
and happiness, and with kindest regards to Mrs. Mars-
den, believe me

" T. S. Raffles."

In the beginning of the month of July (1818), Sir
Stamford embarked from Bencoolen to visit Padang, and
if possible to obtain some information regarding the situ-
ation and circumstances of the ancient Malay city of

AN ACCOUNT OF MENAN6KABU. 387

Menangkabu^ which, from his love of Eastern literature,
was an object of great interest to him.

The capital of Menangkabu, the jurisdiction of which in
ancient times extended over the whole of Sumatra, was
understood to be situated about eighty miles inland of
Padang, beyond the western range of high mountains,
and nearly in the centre of the Island. No European
had ever visited the country, and but little was known of
its constitution.

From his observations, and the information he collected
at Padang, Sir Stamford was led to anticipate that in this
inland government, whence all the Malayan states ac-
knowledge to have derived their p9wer, much civilization
was to be discovered. The origin of the Malayan nation
was of itself a question of interesting inquiry. The pre-
sent state and condition of the seat of empire promised to
throw light on the subject; and as it was uncertain how
long Padang, the key to Menangkabu, might remain in
the possession of the English, he was determined to at-
tempt the enterprize.

Menangkabu had been famed since the earliest periods
of history for the riches of its gold mines, its iron ores,
and its mineral productions in general. It was from
Menangkabu, and principally down the Siak, Sudragidi,
and Sunda rivers, that the gold which traders found at
Malacca in remote periods was carried. It was to the
gold of Menangkabu that Malacca owed its designation
of the golden Chersonesus, and navigators even distin-

2c2

388 LETTER TO THE DUCHESS OF SOMERSET.

guish in their charts to this day two mountains in its
vicinity, called Mount Ophir, one in Sumatra to the west,
the other on the peninsula of Malacca/ but nearly in the
same degree of latitude with the capital of Menangkabu,
that is to say, under the equinoctial hne. Sir Stamford
wrote an account of this journey to his friends in England.

TO WM. MARSDEN, ESQ.

** Pageruyung, at the foot of Berapi, July 24, 1818,

long. E.,laLlorS,

" My dear Sir,

" I have the satisfaction to send you a few lines
from this noted spot, to prove to you that I have not been
idle since my arrival. Dr. Horsfield, who is with me,
will carry home an account of our discoveries ; and in the
mean time it may be sufficient to inform you that at
Suruasa I yesterday discovered two inscriptions in the
Kawi character ; and at Pageruyung, ten minutes ago, I
met with a regular Hindu idol well sculptured in stone.
Lady Raffles is by my side, and desires her kindest
remembrances.'*

EXTRACT FROM A LETTER WRITTEN AT SEA TO THE DUCHESS

OF SOMERSET.

" Sept. lOth, 1818.

" On my arrival at Padang, I found that, notwithstand-
ing the previous instructions I had given, no arrange-
ments whatever had been made for facilitating the pro-
posed journey into the interior. Here, as in a former

LETTER TO THE DUCHESS OF SOMERSET. 389

instance at Manna> when I proposed proceeding to
Pasumah, the chief authority had taken upon himself, on
the advice of the good folks of the place, to consider such
an excursion as altogether impracticable, and to con-
clude that on my arrival I should myself be of the same
opinion. I had, therefore, to summon the most intel-
ligent European and native inhabitants, and to inform
them of my determination. At first all was difiiculty and
impossibility. Besides physical obstructions, the whole of
the interior was represented to be under the sway of
Tuankn Pasaman, a religious reformer, who would un-
doubtedly cut me off without mercy or consideration : but
when they found me positive, these difficulties and im-
possibilities gradually vanished; distances were estimated,
and a route projected; letters were immediately sent off
to the principal Chiefs of the interior, informing them of
my approach, and in three days everything was ready for
the journey.

" Our first object was to send the baggage and pro-
visions a-head. This party, which consisted of about two
hundred Coohes, or porters, ea«h man carrying his sepa-
rate load ; fifty military as an escort, and all our personal
servants, left Padang on the afternoon of the 14th of
July, by beat of drum, forming a most ridiculous caval-
cade, the interest of which was much heightened by the
quixotic appearance of my friend Dr. Horsfield, who was
borne along on the shoulders of four of the party, in order
that in preceding us he might gain time for botanizing.

390 JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR OF SUMATRA.

'' Thursday^ the 16th, at daylight, was fixed our de-
parture, but the rain during the whole of the night had
been violent and incessant, and continued to fall so
heavily that no one could move out of the house till after
ten o'clock ; the clouds then broke, and the native Chiefs
who were to accompany us appeared ; one and all declared
the impossibility of our proceeding on that day : such had
been the quantity and the violence of the rain, that the
river of Fadang had overflowed its banks ; the bazaar or
native town was three feet under water ; all communica-
tion with the country was cut off; the long-boat of the
Sunburry and another native boat had been lost in at-
tempting to get out of the river : but as the weather
cleared up by noon, and everything was arranged for de-
parting, we were not inclined to be disappointed. At
half-past twelve, therefore, we left the Residency, under
a salute from the fort, accompanied by the Tuanku, or
native Chief of the place, two Princes of Menangkabu^
the principal native merchants, and about 300 followers.

"For the first part of the road we proceeded on horse-
back, but were soon obliged to dismount. We had scarcely
passed the bazaar of Fadang, when we had to swim our
horses across a rapid stream, and in the course of three hours
we had successively to cross at least twenty streams of the
kind : over some we were carried in small canoes, over
others we were borne on men^s backs, and through some
we boldly waded, for it was impossible to think of remain-
ing free from wet. At length, we struck across the country

LETTER TO THE DUCHESS OF SOMERSET. 391

to the northward, over a fine plain of rice-fields, which^
fortunately for us, were not in a state of cultivation. We
had hardly got over our difficulties in crossing the nume-
rous rivulets, when a heavy shower drenched us completely,
and as there was every prospect of a wet night, we thought
it best to look out for shelter, and accordingly, at half-
past four, put up in the village of Campong Baru, where
we remained housed for the night. We at first expected
to have reached Lemau Manis, a small village at the foot
of the mountains ; but the rain coming on, we were content
to satisfy ourselves with having got thus far, and accom-
plished the great object of breaking ground. Although we
had been four hours on the road^ we did not estimate our
distance from Padang,in a direct line, at more than six miles.
The country through which we had passed was populous,
and generally well cultivated ; many herds of cattle and
buffaloes straying near the road; an appearance of plenty
and content throughout ; the villages seeming to occupy
a very considerable extent, and to include orchards and
plantations of various kinds. I notice these appearances,
because they are not found to exist within the same dis-
tance of Bencoolen.

'' Just before reaching this village, I received an express
from Dr. Horsfield, which, on account of its encouraging
tenor^ I shall transcribe.

" ' My DEAR Sir,

" ' Your servants, Covrington and ^amee, have
just arrived at Gedong Beo, with a report that one of the

392 LETTER TO THE DUCHESS OF SOMERSET.

Coolies was carried away by the stream^ in attempting to
cross the river; we have had continued rain for twenty-four
hours, by which the rivers are all greatly swelled. Covring-
ton thinks it impossible that Lady Baffles can pursue the
route. As for myself, I came in just before the rain. I
must inform you that there are many difficult passages ; I
should not, however, despah: of your progress, as far as re-
lates to yourself, but as for Lady Raffles, I almost doubt
whether, in favourable weather, she could come on, as in
many places a lady cannot be carried ; if it rains, doubtless,
communication is stopped. The road passes through the
bed of a stream, which rapidly swells after rains ; and if
the rains continue, the natives are positively of opinion
that the progress forwards or backwards is impeded. I do
not wish to discourage you in the attempt, but it is my
duty to inform you of what your servants have communi-
cated to me, with a request to make it known to you as
early as possible.

'' ' Yours, &c.

" ' J. HORSFIELD.

" 'P.S. — The further route .towards Tiga bla^ is reckoned
worse than that hither by far ; and large packages, as a
table, &c., cannot be transported.
* *' Wednesday night"

" This letter was poor comfort, considering that it con-
tinued to rain during the whole of the night.

" Friday VJth, — As the sun rose the clouds dispersed,
and, fully determined to overcome every obstacle, we

LETTER TO THE DUCHESS OF SOMERSET. 393

started firom Campong Baru at seven ; at half-past eight
we reached Lemau Manis ; about two miles from thence
entered the forests, and at half-past eleven overtook Dr.
Horsfield and the advanced party, at the Gedong Beo, or
toll-post of Ayer Malentang, where we halted for the
night. The first miracle wrought was to bring the dead
to life, in the re-appearance of the Coolie, who was reported
to have been lost : this poor fellow had truly enough been
carried away by the flood, but having had the good sense
to lay hold of the branch of a tree which overhung the
river, he afterwards regained the rocks.

'' Our route from Campong Baru to Lemau Manis, and
for about a mile beyond it, lay over a rich plain of sawas,
or rice-fields, alternately rising above each other, till we
brought the top of Padang hill on a Kne with the horizon ;
the soil extremely rich, and the country intersected by
numerous streams ; every indication of an extensive and
industrious population; sheds, or warongs, as they are
termed in Java, erected for the accommodation of travel-
lers, at convenient distances ; and here and there the
vestige of a road, once passable for wheel-carriages. The
vicinity of Lemau Manis affords several beautifrd and
commanding situations for the residence of Europeans ;
and should Padang remain permanently under the Eng-
lish flag, they would doubtless be immediately resorted to^
The village itself is elevated above the sea about four
hundred feet. This is called the Pau country, in which an
interesting ceremony is understood to attend the annual

394 PULO CHEPADA.

inundation of the rice-fields, by opening the embankm^its
of the principal river. Lemau Manis is a long straggling
village^ or rather plantation^ on the romantic banks of a
rapid river, which discharges itself into the sea at Ujung
Karang, and up the stream of which our further course
lay. Here, as well as in several villages we had passed^
we observed a considerable quantity of coffee growing
under the shade of the large firuit-trees, and contiguous to
the houses. Our arrival was welcomed by the beating of
the great drum, or tabu, which has a place in every larg^
village. This drum is peculiar : it is formed of the trunk
of a large tree, and is at least twenty feet long, hollowed
out, and suspended on a wooden frame, lying horizontally
under an attap shed ; one end only is covered with parch-
ment.

" As the nature of our road, after entering the forest,
has aheady been described in Dr. Horsfield's letter, it
will be only necessary to observe, that the violence of the
current having abated, we found the route passable. The
ascent was very moderate, but many passages along the
sides of slippery rocks very unsafe. We had frequently
to wade across the stream, and continually to leap, like a
flock of goats, from rock to rock. The native traders
secure their loads in a peculiar manner, by lashing them
fast to a small frame, or stand, which is placed on the
shoulder, and kept steady by being held with one hand
while the leap is made.

The bed of the river afforded a fine opportunity for

PULO CHBPADA. 395

eollecting specimens of minends ; those we observed were
principally of volcanic origin. Dr. Horsfield noticed
several plants entirely new to him.

" Our course from Lemau Manis was about E.N.E.,
estimated distance from Campong Baru sixteen miles.

'' The barometer, at the toll-post where we slept, was
28** 55' ; the thermometer, in the morning, 72*' ; at two
o'clock P.M., 75**; in the evening, at eight, 69*^; our esti-
mated height, above the level of the sea, fifteen hundred
feet.

'' I shall not speak of the nature of the accommodation
which we found at this and other toll-posts, further than
by observing that they generally consist of one or more
large sheds, for the reception of the native traders
and travellers, who pay a small sum for being lodged
during the night. Sometimes we had a small division
of the shed to ourselves ; at other times we had not
even this accommodation. When it rained, our whole
party, consisting of not less than three hundred, was
sometimes collected under one shed alone.

'' Saturday, I8th. — Having accomplished our journey
thus far with less difficulty than we were at first prepared
for, we set out this morning at about half-past seven in
high spirits, but before we came to our resting-place for
the night they were pretty well exhausted ; for, in conse-
quence of some misapprehension in the party which had
gone before us, we had to walk nearly twice the distance
we had calculated upon, and this over the most fatiguing

396 ASCENT OF GUNUNG DINGIN.

road> with little or nothing to eat or drink. From the
place where we had slept^ our course continued up the bed
of the river, but the ascent was much steeper, and the
road far more difficult than on the preceding day. Rocks
piled on rocks, in sublime confusion, roaring cataracts, and
slippery precipices were now to be surmounted. Nothing
could be more romantic and wild than the course which
we had to pass; but in proportion as the scene was
irregular and grand, the road was difficult and laborious,
and ere we had reached the small station of Pulo Che-
pada about noon, we were completely wearied out. At
this place we had directed that a small hut should be
erected, where we might pass the night ; but to our mor-
tification we found that the party who had received these
orders had previously proceeded farther on, and left us to
follow them to a more convenient resting-place, said to be
distant about five hours further walk. It was too late to
remedy the evil, for even had we been able to keep out
the rain, which now began to fall, we could not have
remained. Not only our bedding and clothes, but the
cook, with all our eatables and drinkables, had also gone
a-head ; we were therefore compelled to follow, and after
resting about an hour, again set out. From this place we
quitted the bed of the river, and ascended an extremely
steep mountain (Gunung Dingin), the summit of which
we reached with great difficulty at twenty minutes past
four. Here the thermometer was sixty-three, the weather
close and rainy ; estimated height by the barometer five

ASCENT OF GUNUNG DINGIN. 397

thousand two hundred feet ; vegetation stunted^ and the
trees covered with moss. From the summit^ our descent
to the eastward was more gradual^ but for the first hour
principally through a very narrow channel of about two
feet wide^ and sometimes four and five feet deep^ appa-
rently cut as a pathway, but more calculated for a water-
course^ which in fact it had become, the water being in
most places more than ankle deep. We continued de-
scending till dark, when it was with difficulty and danger
we could grope our way for a few yards. The night was
extremely dark ; we were in the centre of a deep forest,
through which the twinkling of a star could not be seen ;
on either side of us were steep precipices of several hun-
dred feet ; we had no one with us who knew the road; it
was impossible to distinguish it either by the sight or
touch, and in this miserable predicament, without any
thing to eat or drink (for we could not help agreeing, with
Sancho, that this after all was the worst of the affisiir), and
not knowing how far we had to go, about seven it began
to rain pretty heavily. We then fired two or three guns, in
the hope that the party a-head would hear us, and sent off
the boldest of our followers in search of a light ; during
the next hour we were continually tantalized by the ap-
pearances of lights, which no sooner approached than
they receded, proving but the evanescent glare of the fire-
fly. At last a steady light was seen at some distance
through the depth of the forest ; a distant halloo answered
our call, and we were relieved from our anxiety. With this

398 ARRIVAL IN THE TIOA-BLAS.

assistance we reached our destination at half-past eight ;
but many of our party did not get in till midnight ; and
several, giving way to despair, remained in the forest till
the next morning.

" Between the toll-post we had left and Pulo Chepada,
we suddenly came down upon a small valley of about a
mile in length, clear of forest, and covered with grass
alone, along which a beautiful stream meandered on a fine
bed of pebbles. This was represented to us to have but a
few years since been the bed of a lake, one of the banks of
which gave way during an earthquake : every appearance
corroborated this fact.

'' Our abode for the night was on a detached hill, Bukit
Batu, at the verge of the forest^ the Gedung Be5, or toll-
posCy a wretched shed, where people of all ranks were in-
discriminately accommodated, but in which we found as
substantial comfort and repose as we could have desired
in a palace.

" Our distance during this day of fatigue we estimated
at not less than twenty miles ; but we all agreed that we
could have walked double that distance on level ground
and good road with less labour.

'' From an opening in the forest, about five in the after-
noon, we had our first view of Gunung Berapi, the Wes-
tern Peak> emitting a volume of smoke, and bearing
N. by W.

" The estimated height of Bukit Batu by barometer is
3500 feet. The thermometer at daylight sixty-five.

ARRIVAL IN THE TIOA-BLAS. 399

The toll-post here is under Oanton Chiri, one of the IH^a-
blas Cotas, and seems regulated on the same principle as
that of Ayer Melangtang under Lemau Manis; each
traveller pays a certain sum according to the goods he
carries — if cloth, iron, or gold, a wang — if siri, and other
inferior articles, a satali or half wang. They are all
adapted for the general object intended, and afford evi-
dence of the extent of the traffic carried on. We met
several parties of traders crossing the country towards
Padang.

" Sunday, 19th. — As we had now entered the limits of
the Tiga-blas country, our further progress depended
upon the good- will of the Chiefs, who are here entirely
independent of European authority. It was intimated
to us, that we should arrive at Solo Solaya, the intended
termination of our present day's journey, by eleven or
twelve o'clock ; and as we had scarcely recovered from the
last day's fatigue, we determined to breakfast before we
moved. While partaking of this meal, several of the
Chiefs of the Tiga-blas country were announced; and a
party who stated themselves to be the representatives of
two-thirds of that country were introduced. After the
usual compliments, they proceeded to the business of
their visit, and being informed of my wish to proceed
without delay, very quietly stated that they had already
taken the subject into consideration, that they had been

discussing it since daylight, and had at last come to the
resolution, that as they were only two-thirds of the Chiefs,

400 ARRIVAL IN THE TIGA-BLAS.

and the other third had not arrived, they would come to
no decision at all, but proposed as an accommodation
that I should remain where I was for three days, after
which, a final decision should be immediately passed. This
proposition I, of course, treated very lightly, and in a few
words intimated my determination to proceed as soon as
breakfast should be over. While the chiefs were deli-
berating upon what answer they should make, the arrival
of the remaining third was announced, and the conference
broke up, in order that a general consultation might be
held. As soon as breakfast was over, I went out to see
what was going on. The Chiefs, after sitting down in a
circle, and debating for about an hour, arose, and the
parties dispersed, in order that the newly-arrived Chiefs
might think on the subject by themselves and advise with
their followers. They accordingly adjourned to an opposite
hill, on which several hundred people had collected. Here
they continued in conference till ten o'clock, when finding
there was no chance of a speedy termination, I ordered my
party to be in readiness to move. We were no sooner in
motion than the Chiefs again assembled in council, and it
was requested that I would wait ten minutes longer ;
wanting the patience to do this, and determined at once
to break through this tedious delay, to which it was to be
feared we should be subjected in passing the boundary of
every petty state, I walked into the middle of the circle,
and demanded that they should say in one word what was
required, on which the most respectable-looking man

RECEPTION BY THE NATIVES. 401

among them answered Sa tali sa pah — that is to say,
twenty dollars ; the money was immediately tendered, we
shook hands, the utmost cordiality and good understand-
ing instantly prevailed, and we were permitted to proceed
on our journey without further hesitation.

" It was now between ten and eleven o'clock : our course
on the descent lay partly through a wood, and partly
over several cleared hiUs, cultivated with coiSee, indigo, &c.
In about an hour after starting, the country opened ; and

■

we had the gratifying view of .the Tiga-blas country, an
extensive and highly cultivated plain, bounded to the
south by the noble mountain of Talang.

" After descending the hills, and reaching the plain, our
course lay entirely along the narrow ridges or embankments
raised between the rice-fields until we reached the market-
place, distinguished by several large waringin or banyan
trees. Here we halted and partook of different kinds of
fruits presented to us. In our course from Bukit Batu to
the place, our party had been strengthened until it
amounted to several thousands — the people of the country
being collected at the different eminences near where we
passed; they welcomed us as they joined, the throng, by
the most discordant howls and cheers which can be well
conceived. Arrived at the market-place, they formed an
extensive circle several rows deep, the front row squatting ;
nearly the whole were armed with spears, and among them
were some women. One old woman made herself very
conspicuous by her attentions, and when a little alarm was

VOL. 1. 2d

402 RECEPTION BY THE NATIVES.

evinced by Lady Baffles^ on account of the violence of the
howling and cheering, she was the first to assure us no
harm was meant ; it was only the way of the hiU-people,
who took this mode to show their delight, and how happy
they were to see us. On the whole, I cannot well conceive
anything more savage than the manners of this noisy
party, from the time the Chiefs joined us until we left
the market-place. It was evident they wished to give us
an hospitable reception. * * * I will only
add, that before they suffered us to proceed beyond ihe
market-place, a new consultation was held, which lasted
more than half-an-hour, when another douceur became
necessary. We then prosecuted our journey to the towns
of Solo Solaya, which were considered as the first in rank
of the Tiga-blas Cotas, and about four o'clock reached our
destination. Here, after having been kept for half-an-hour
in the Bali, or town-hall, we were accommodated in a very
commodious planked house, which appeared to be the resi-
dence of one of the principal Chiefs.

" Finding ourselves among a set of people who exhi-
bited in their manners so much of the savage, we deter-
mined to keep our party close together, and whenever
any general movement was made, to call in the aid of the
drum and fife, which fortunately we had brought with us :
this imperfect music, most wretchedly performed, seemed
to have a great effect upon the people.

" I have now once more led your Grace across the
Barisan, or chain of mountains, which had hitherto so

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY. 403

effectually opposed the approach of Europeans to the rich
and populous countries in the interior. In a former
letter, I attempted to express the delight with which I
first viewed the fertile valley of Pasumah, after spending
three days in the forests. Here I was certainly prepared
to find a country still more fertile and populous, and I
was not disappointed. The whole of the plain, or val-
ley, (I hardly know what to call it,) occupied by the
TigcLS'blas Cotas, or Thirteen Confederate Towns, is one
sheet of cultivation : in breadth it may be about ten, and
in length twenty miles, thickly studded with towns and
villages, some of them running in a connected line for
several miles ; this was the case with the town of Solo
Solaya, where we put up. The town of Solaya joins that
of Solo, whence the Chiefs are usually denominated to be
of Solo Solaya ; a third town, called Cola^harUy is again
only separated fi:om these by a river: the whole are
shaded by extensive groves of cocoa-nut trees.

" On the slopes of the hills, the principal cultivation is
coffee, indigo, maize, sugar-cane, and the oil-^ving
plants ; on the plain below, almost exclusively rice. The
sawas, or rice-fields, are here managed exactly on the
principle of the mountain sawas in Java, and the soil and
produce seem equally good. A fine breed of small cattle,
which seems, peculiar, abounds here and throughout the
Menankabu country : oxen seem to be generally used in
agriculture, in preference to buffaloes ; they are in general
about three feet four inches high, beautifully made, and

2d2

404 PESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

mostly of a light fawn colour^ with black eyes and lashes^
and are sold at from three to four dollars a-head. They
are, without exception, the most be,a\itifril little animals of
the kind I ever beheld : we did not see one in bad condi-
tion. Horses, of which there seems to be plenty, are not
much used : for a mare and foal the price was four dollars,
twenty shillings.

" On entering the country, we were struck by the
costume of the people, which is now anything but Malay,
the whole being clad according to the custom of the Orang
Putis, or Padris, that is to say, in white or blue, with
turbans, and allowing their beards to grow, in conformity
with the ordinances of Tuanku Pasaman, the religious
i:eformer. Unaccustomed to wear turbans, and by nature
deficient in beard, these poor people make but a sorry
appearance in their new costume. The women, who are
also clad in white or blue cloth, do not appear to the best
advantage in this new costume; many of them conceal
their heads under a kind of hood, through which an open-
ing is made sufficient to expose their eyes and nose
alone; but we observed some general customs in their
dress which are not perhaps attributable to the recent
reformation. The women invariably wear their hair
parted over the forehead, and combed smooth down the
sides ; and the children and young girls were frequently
seen with their hair plaited down the back, after the
manner of the Chinese. All the women have the lobe of
the , ear distended to an enormous extent, in order to

SOLO SOLAYA. 405

receive an immense ear-ring, or rather wheel, which it
more resembles: this is usually about two inches in
diameter, and differently ornamented; some are of wood,
ornamented with silver, others of copper, &c.

" The people in general are by no means good-looking;
neither in stature nor countenance do they equal the
Pasumahs ; they are decidedly a less ingenuous people ;
their manners, if anything, more rude and uncultivated ;
but their agriculture, their comforts, and their condition,
certainly superior.

" Monday, 2Qth. — ^This day was spent at Solo Solaya.
About noon I was 'informed that all the Chiefs of the
adjoining districts had assembled, and were desirous of a
conference. In number they amounted to some hundreds,
and I therefore requested they would select ten or twenty,
with whom I could personally confer. After about an
hour's disputing, and when I found by their clamour that
they were likely to separate in disorder, I was compelled
to say I would confer with the whole of them, if they
wished it. They accordingly assembled in the vicinity of
the Bali, or town-hall; and having formed a circle, in
which a place was reserved for me, I took my seat with
all the state which circumstances admitted. The object
of my visit was then inquired into, and the propriety of
allowing the Dutch to return to Padang discussed with
much* vehemence, until one and all declared the Dutch
never should return. To enforce this declaration, the
foremost stuck theur spears in the ground and set up a

406 GOLD MINES.

shout. A letter was then written to the King of Eng-
land> and signed by the principal Chiefs; and other
agreements^ of a pohtical nature, entered into. A trans-
lation of the letter to the King of England I enclose to
your Grace, as a political document of high import

" This business terminated, a general shout announced
the conclusion of the conference. Each of the principal
Chiefs was presented with a piece of British broad-doth,
three volleys of musketry were fired, and the drum and fife
playing ' God save the King,' they escorted me home, in
the most ridiculous state that can be conceived.

*' The remainder of the day was passed in examining
the town and making inquiries.

" These towns I found had little to do with commerce ;
the inhabitants are almost exclusively devoted to agricul-
ture ; and to this cause the native merchants who were
with me attributed the want of civilization among them.
' The people of those towns,' said they, ' which lie on the
road to the gold mines, and where they understand how
to trade, are of very different manners: these people,
though considering themselves as of most importance,
have always been noted for their rude and obstinate
behaviour.' This account I had subsequently reason to
believe was pretty correct. The Tiga-blas country has
always been famed for its produce in gold ; indeed, to
Europeans it has been known as a gold country alone.
To find it also in a high degree agricultural was more
than I expected. Hitherto the country through which

ARRIVAL AT SOLAYA. 407

we passed was exclusively volcanic ; the rocks for the
most part basaltic; a hot-spring, 108° of Fahrenheit,
close to the town, and two burning mountains in sight ;
no evidences of primitive formations ; no indications what-
ever of metals. We had therefore to look for the gold
mines beyond the immediate confines of the Tiga-blas
country ; and we soon ascertained the principal mines to
be situated, some at two and three^ and others as far as
ten and twelve, days' journey distant, in a south-eastern
direction. The principal mines are those of Sungy Pagu
and Sungy Abu, which are marked on the map as lying
at the back of Gunung Talang. On the extent and value
of these mines I shall have occasion hereafter to make
some observations ; for the present, I will confine myself
more particularly to that part of the Tiga-blas country
through which we passed.

" On entering the town of Solaya, we passed through
the burial-ground, distraguished by a very large waringin-
tree and several tombs built of wood, here termed jiri :
these are peculiar, sometimes little more than a shed, but
frequently with a raised flooring, and seats raised one
above the other at each end, like the stem of a vessel.
Several of these were observed outside of the town, and in
the middle of the rice-fields : these, we were informed, had
been raised in memory of persons who had died at a dis-
tance ; they now served as a shelter for the children, when
watching the birds as the rice ripened, and as places of
amusement for the younger branches of the family. The

408 DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN OP SOLAYA.

waringin^ or banyan trees^ reminded me very much of
Java ; they are here even larger than any I ever observed
in that country. Nothing in the vegetable creation can
well exceed the peaceAil grandeur of these trees.

" The houses are for the most part extensive and well
built ; in length seldom less than sixty feet ; the interior^
one long hall^ with several small chambers in the rear
opening into it. In the front of each house are generally
two hmbongs, or granaries^ on the same principle as those
in Java^ but much longer and more substantial : they were
not less than thirty feet high^ and capable of holding an
immense quantity ; many of them were very highly orna-
mented^ various flowers and figures being carved on the
uprights and cross-beams ; some of them coloured. The
taste for ornament is not confined to the lombongs ; the
wood-work of most of the houses is carved^ and coloured
with red, white, and black. The ridge-poles of the
houses, lombongs, &c., have a peculiar appearance, in
being extremely concave, the ends or points of the crescent
being very sharp. In the larger houses they give the
appearance of two roofs, one crescent being, as it were,
within another. The whole of the buildings are con-
structed in the most substantial manner, but entirely of
wood and matting.

" In the evening, I was much amused by the return of
the cattle from pasture. To every house there appeared
attached several head of cattle : these came in, as the sun
dechned, of their own accord, and were severally secured

DEPARTURE FROM SOLAYA. 409

by the children and women^ the cattle being quite as
docile as those in Europe, in which respect they form
a striking contrast to those on the coast, which are, for
the most part, too wild to be approached.

" Being anxious to refresh myself in the river which
passed at the back of the town, I inquired for a convenient
place to bathe : my intention was no sooner intimated, than
the womenof the village flocked round me, and insisted on
accompanying me to the place ; but, however great their
curiosity, my modesty did not allow me to gratify it, and I
was content to disappoint myself as well as them.

" It is now, however, time to proceed on the journey, lest
I tire you on the way.

" Tuesday, 21st — At day-Kght the drum was beaten,
and every thing in readiness for our departure, when a
serious difficulty was started. In the distribution of the
presents the day before, it was istated that one piece of
doth had been stolen, and that the Chiefs of Solo had in
consequence received one piece less than those of Solaya.
This was represented as likely to be the occasion of a feud
between the two people after my departure. I would wil-
lingly have given another piece of cloth, but I found the
whole statement to be an imposition ; for when I offered
to do so, a new demur arose ; the Chiefs of Solo came in a
body, sa)dng that I had slept two nights in Solaya, and not
one in Solo ; that I had therefore done more honour to
the former ; that the two towns had always maintained an
equality, which was now lost, unless I would consent also

410 JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR OF SUMATRA.

to stay two nights at Solo. This I represented to be im-
possible ; the Chiefs of both towns had received me at the
boundary^ and it was left with them to conduct me whither
they pleased ; they took me to Solaya; the drum was now
beating, and I must be oflf. I promised, however, to visit
Solo on my return ; but nothing would pacify them, and
we had very nigh come to an open rupture. At last, I
gave the piece of cloth to the Chiefs of Solo, and a written
certificate that the important point should be regularly
discussed after my return to Padang, where the Chiefs
were invited to proceed, should any bad blood remain. At
length, with the greatest difficulty, we got clear out of the
town, and bent our course across the plain towards the
Lake of Sincara, which we expected to reach in the course
of the day.

" During this day's journey, which lay through one of
the most highly cultivated countries I ever passed, we
were subjected to several gross impositions. On first
leaving Solo Solaya, we had to find our way without
guides ; but we had not proceeded many miles, when, on
being at a loss which way to proceed, some men immedi-
ately came forward and offered their services as guides,
provided we would pay them in the first instance ; this we
at first declined, but at length were forced to give in;
but they no sooner got the money than they took an early
opportunity to decamp. To our surprise, however, we
soon fell in with the Chiefs of the towns which we had
left; they had proceeded by a shorter route, and now pre-

JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR OF SUMATRA. 411

sented themselves as guides. They did not, however,
allow us to pursue our journey for more than a mile at a
time without stopping to consult; and the whole country
being raised as we proceeded, it was impossible for us to
oppose their wOl. In this manner they detained us at
least six or seven times in the course of two hours, nor
would they allow us to proceed until we paid them a cer-
tain sum, by way of customs, for the liberty of passing
through the country ; all hands seemed determined to get
something by us. At last, about half-past nine, we reached
the termination of that part of the plain under the Tiga-
blas Chiefs, who after maJdng their last demand, insisted
on our remaining half-an-hour, to see them exhibit in a
tournament, to which we were obliged to submit, notwith-
standing the excessive heat of the sun, from which we had
no shelter. At ten o'clock we obtained a view of the lake,
and about eleven we reached Kasi; at twelve we arrived
at Sindangbaher, a populous town on the banks of the
lake, where we remained for the night. Both here and at
Kasi, we were received, comparatively, with pohteness and
attention : the people seemed to have some respect for
authority, and it was evident they had the advantage of
more general intercourse with strangers. We were, in the
first instance, conducted to the large waringin-tree> under
the shade of which the Chiefs and people assembled to re-
ceive us, and where cocoa-nuts and fruits were presented.
At Kasi the most particular attention was paid to us,
owing, most probably, to its being the native town of one

412 JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR OF SUMATRA.

of the principal merchants who accompanied us, and who
seemed to possess much influence here.

" The town of Sindangbaher is situated about a mile
from the banks of the lake, on a fine stream. The build-
ings, &c. are much in the same style as at Solo Solaya,
but not so substantial or numerous, many of them having
been burnt during the late civil war. But the most
interesting object before us was the lake, across which our
course lay to Menangkabu : of this an account will be
given in the next day's journey.

" Of the country through which we had passed I shall
only observe, that our course this day lay through the
richest corn-fields, and frequently on the slope of a low
range of hills on the western side of the plain. The fer-
tility of the plain fully equalled any part of Java, and par-
ticularly about Kasi and in the vicinity of the lake, where
the rice-fields evinced an uncommon luxuriance : they
were here in fall cultivation, the rice in all its stages, but
chiefly in ear. The plain gradually narrowed as we ap-
proached the lake ; and between the rice-fields under the
Tiga-blas country, and those of Kasi, we passed an uncul-
tivated tract, but even this was cleared, and covered with
a short sod, affording excellent pasture for cattle, of which
there were great abundance. Many parts reminded us of
the beautifal district of Serayu, the pride of Java.

" We estimated our journey this day at twelve miles,
and Lady Raffles had the advantage of being carried a
considerable part of the way in a chair, but in passing

JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR OF SUMATRA. 413

through the rice-fields in cultivation, the embankments
which formed the foot-paths were too narrow to admit of
this aid.

" We estimated the height of Sindangbaher, above the
level of the sea, eleven hundred feet; that of Solo Solaya
we also ascertained, by the barometer, to be twelve hun-
dred feet : so that the plain gradually descends from
Grreat Talang, its southern boundary to the lake, of the
bed of which, in early days, it may probably have formed
part, being bounded to the west by the high range of
mountains, and to the east by the ranges of low hills,
which in their continuation confine the waters of the lake
as at present defined.

" Of the population of the Tiga-blas country I shall
hereafter have occasion to speak ; and here it may only be
necessary to notice, that from the best information I could
obtain on the spot, we formed a loose estimate that it could
not fall far short of eighty thousand souls.

" The dawn of Wednesday found us on the banks of
the lake, shipping our baggage, and embarking for Sima-
wang. We should have started the preceding night, but
the boats had not arrived ; even now we had but one at
our command, and in this we proceeded, leaving the
heaviest part of the baggage, the escort, and coolies, to
follow by land, should no other boat be procurable in the
course of the day.

" This beautiM sheet of water, called the Danau, or
lake of Sincara, is about fourteen miles long, and on the

414 JOURNEY INTO THB INTERIOR OF SUMATRA.

broadest part 8even> surrounded by mountains and hills,
except towards the Tiga-blas country, where a plain of its
own width gradually sinks into its bosom. Proceeding
northward, we had on our left the high mountains which
form the Barisan or boundary of the sea-coast districts, in
height from five to seven thousand feet, at the foot of
which, on the margin of the lake for two or three nules
deep, were rice-fields, plantations, and villages, rising suc-
cessively above each other. On the sides of the moun-
tains themselves, nearly to the summit of the first ridge,
the forest had been cleared and cultivation carried. The
opposite side, as well as the northern part of the lake, is
confined by a succession of low hills, which in their con-
stitution we found to be essentially difierent from the high
volcanic ridges we had passed over, being primitive, and
abounding in metals : among these the most conspicuous,
and lying nearly north, was the Gunung Besi, or Hill of
Iron, which from time immemorial has been the principal
source whence these districts have been supplied with that
metal. Behind these, a little to the westward, rises the
Berapi, a grand volcanic mountain, emitting smoke from
its western peak, and towering in the clouds to the height
of at least ten thousand feet above the lake itself. Far-
ther west, connecting its base with that of the Berapi, is
the Gunung Sincalang, another insulated mountain, in
height about eight thousand feet. To the eastward of
Berapi, and nearly over Sunawang, as we approached it
we obtained a glimpse of the stupendous mountain of

JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR OF SUMATRA. 415

Easumba, the estimated height of which is not less than
fifteen thousand feet. To the southward^ the view was
bounded by Gunung Talang^ lyi^^g at the extremity of
the Tiga-blas country, at the back of which we observed
a ridge still higher than itself.

'' On the banks of the lake are situated seven principal
towns with their numerous villages and hamlets : these
being shaded by trees form so many groves, the dark
foliage of which pleasingly contrasts with the bright tints
of the rice plantations, in the middle of which they are
situated. The beach is a bright sand, and cultivation im-
mediately commences. At each of these towns a weekly
market is held, to which the traders, &c. from the other
towns and adjacent countries repair by water. The canoes
are numerous, and each town has one or two large boats,
capable of carrying six tons, and one hundred men : it
was in one of these that we embarked. These large boats
are well built, and at a distance, when filled with people,
have very much the appearance of the large war-boats of
the South Sea Islands. At a short distance from Sin-
dangbaher, and where the lake was said to be by no means
deep, we obtained bottom with a deep-sea lead at sixty-
eight fathoms, but subsequently in attempting to ascer-
tain the depth more in the centre, we found no bottom
with one hundred and eighty fathoms. The shores are
easy of access, and no rocks or shoals exist to obstruct its
navigation. It abounds in fish, and the inhabitants pro-

416 JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR OF SUMATRA.

cure lime by burning a small shell of the mussel kind
found on its banks.

'^ As we approached Simawang, a very peculiar hill,
with three ragged peaks, was pointed out to us as lying
immediately at the back of Pageruyong, the capital of the
Menangkabu country. This hill, Gunung Bongso, will
be hereafter noticed.

" We had embarked at a quarter-past eight, it was now
half-past one, when we landed at the foot of the hill on
which Samawang is situated, and at the source of the
Kuantau or Indragiri river, which issues from the lake of
Sincara at this place. We had a very hot and fatiguing
walk for above an hour in ascending the hill, but were
amply repaid for our labour by the friendly and cordial
reception we met with at the summit, where the head
of the village, a venerable old man, quietly conducted us
into his dwelling, and made every preparation for our
comfort without subjecting us to exposure under the
waringin-tree, or any of the ridiculous and annoying cere-
monies and delays to which we had in former instances
been liable.

*' The house in which we were now accommodated was
in length aboiit one hundred feet, and from thirty to forty
in depth, built in a most substantial manner, and sup-
ported along the centre by three large wooden pillars, fit
for the masts of a ship : indeed, from the peculiar con-
struction of the house, the gable end of which was raised

JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR OF SUMATRA. 417

in tiers like the stem of a vessel, they had very much this
appearance. The floor was raised from the ground about
ten feet, the lower part being inclosed and appropriated
to cattle, &c. The principal entrance is about the centre,
but there is a second door at one end. The interior con*
sists of one large room or hall, the height proportioned to
the other dimensions ; three fire-places, equally distant
from each other, were placed on the front side, and at the
back were several small chambers, in which we perceived
the spinning-wheels and other articles belonging to the
women. This may serve as a general description for the
houses in this part of the country, which I have described
thus particularly, because they differ essentially from
those on the coast, and from what Mr. Marsden has de-
scribed as the usual dwellings of the Sumatrans.

" Notwithstanding the room in which we were accom-
modated was so commodious, we suffered more from the
heat at this place than elsewhere, on account of the
great number of people admitted, and the number of
fires. That end of the hall which rose in tiers, like the
stem of a ship, was set apart for Lady Eafiles and me,
and separated from the rest by mats. The number at
one time accommodated m this caravansera did not fall
short of a hundred-and-fifty persons.

" As I must have pretty well tired your Grace with the
detail of this day's journey, I will close the account, and
proceed to the next.

"Thursday, 23rd July. — The town of Simawang oc-

VOL. I. 2 E

418 JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR OF SUMATRA.

cupies the summit of a hill elevated above the banks of
the lake about five hundred feet^ and commands a most
beautiful prospect. Notwithstanding this elevation, there
Are hills in the vicinity of greater height, which give it the
advantage of several streams. These are directed into
numerous channels, and fertilize the country in the imme-
diate vicinity, which is for the most part cut into terraces,
and cultivated with rice. The river Ulu Kuantau, as it is
here called, but which is the source of the Indragiri river,
(which, after pursuing a south-easterly course across the
country, discharges itself into the sea on the eastern side
of the island,) is seen to issue from the lake at the foot of
the hill, dashing with great rapidity over the rocks as it
winds along the valley. The lake itself, serene and
placid, insensible of the loss it sustains, is always the
same. No sooner, however^ are its waters withdrawn
from its bosom, than they are made subservient to the
purposes of man. Not fifty yards from the source of the
river we observed a well-constructed water-wheel, by
means of which the adjacent fields were irrigated. These
wheels, which are composed principally of bamboo, are
well adapted for their object. They are in general use in
the Menangkabu country, and may be considered as an
improvement in agriculture to which even the Javans
have not advanced, notwithstanding their long connexion
with the Chinese. As neither Europeans nor Chinese
had hitherto penetrated the Menangkabu country, and
the natives themselves, for many centuries at least, have

JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR OF SUMATRA. 419

had little or no intercourse with foreigners, these wheek
may be considered of native invention. I had formerly
occasion to notice one on the Manna river, and in the
Musi country I am told they are common. I do not
recollect to have seen anything of the kind in Java.

" On those slopes of the hills which cannot conveniently
be cut into terraces, or where streams of water cannot be
carried, sugar-cane is the principal article. Of this the
cultivation is considerable, and very neatly constructed
mills for expressing the juice, which is afterwards manu-
factured into a coarse sugar, are common. They consist
of two perpendicular cylinders, the upper ends of which
are formed into screws or grooves, which fit into each
other so that the cylinders, which at the bottom are fixed
into a stand, and are turned by an ox, revolve different
ways. The expressed juice is received in a reservoir below.

'^It was near Simawang that we first found feldspar,
granite, quartz, and other minerals of a primitive forma-
tion. They were here mixed with a variety of volcanic
productions in the greatest confosion, strongly indicating
that this part of the country had at some distant period
been subjected to violent convulsions. Dr. Horsfield got
specimens of these, which he gave in charge to some coolies
who attended him; after the day's journey he wished to
examine this collection ; the men produced their baskets
full of stones, but on the Doctor's exclaiming they were
not what he had given them, and expressing some anger
on the occasion, they simply observed, they thought he

2e2

420 JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR OF SUMATRA.

only wanted stones^ and they preferred carrying their
baskets empty, so they threw away what he gave them,
and filled them up at the end of the day's journey,
and they were sure they had given him more than he
collected.

" But to proceed on our journey. We were now in a
country abounding with metals ; iron ore of various kinds
lay in our path, and it was not long before we were to be
in the vicinity of the gold mines.

" We left Simawang iat half-an-hour before seven, and
reached Suruasa, the second city of the Menangkabu
country, and in the immediate vicinity of Pageruyong,
about one o'clock, the road nearly the whole way lying
over a range of low primitive hills, and the distance about
twelve miles. After descending the hill of Simawang, we
crossed the river by a most romantic hanging bridge,
which swung in a very nervous manner as we passed one
by one. We soon came into a country entirely primitive,
or rather composed of the debris of primitive matter ; we
passed over several hills, said to contain gold, and saw ex-
tensive excavations, where the miners had been at work ;
these, however, cannot be considered as regular mines,
and they are not reckoned very valuable. The excava-
tions, however, afforded us a finis opportunity of noticing
the direction of the strata, and other appearances inter-
esting to the geologist. About eleven o'clock we obtained
our first view of Pageruyong.

"Shortly after this view our path, which had hitherto

JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR OF SUMATRA. 421

been naxrow, and sometimes steep and broken, widened, and
it was evident we were approaching the vicinity. of some
place of importance : but, alas ! little was left for onr
curiosity but the wreck of what had once been great, and
populous. The waringin trees, which shaded and added
solemnity to the palace, were yet standing in all their
majesty. The fruit-trees, and particularly the cocoa-nut,
marked the distant boundaries of this once extensive city ;
but the rank grass had usurped the halls of the palace,
and scarce was the thatch of the peasant to be found ; three
times has the city been committed to the flames. Well
might I say, in the language of the Brata Yudha, ' Sad
and melancholy was her waringin tree, like unto the sor-
row of a wife whose husband is afar.'

'' On our arrival at Suruasa we were conducted to the
best dwelling which the place now afforded — to the palace,
a small planked house of about thirty feet long, beautifiiUy
situated on the banks of the Golden River (Soongy Amas.)
Here we were introduced to the Tuan Gadis, or Virgin
Queen, who administered the country. We were received
with all the satisfaction and kindness that could be ex-
pected. It was a scene which made me melancholy, and I
will not attempt to describe it.

"The extensive population and high state of cultivation
by which we were surrounded, seemed to confirm the
opinion I had always formed, and even publicly maintained,
as you may see in my History of Java, that the Malayan
empire was not of recent origin, and that in its zenith it

422 JOURNEY INTO THB INTBRIOR OP SUMATRA.

was of comparative rank, if not the rival and contemporary
of Java. The Malays have always excited considerable spe-
culation from the circumstance of their being evidently in a
retrograde state; but where were we to look for their hi»-
tory ? In their literary compositions they seldom go farther
back than the introduction of Mahomedanism> except to
give an account of Noah's ark, or some romantic tale from
which little or nothing can be gathered. It was my good
fortune in Java to discover the vestiges of a former high
state of literature and the arts, in poems, in the ruins of
temples, in sculptured images, in ancient inscriptions.
Nothing of this kind was supposed to exist among the
Malays ; Java was therefore considered as the cradle of
the arts and sciences, as far as they had been introduced
into the Archipelago. The Malays were even stated to
have derived their origin from Java, from the Javan word
Malayu, meaning a runaway; they were said to be the
runaways and outcasts of Java. You may see aU this,
and much more to the disadvantage of the Malays, stated
in the Forty-first Number of the Edinburgh Beview. Your
Grace may therefore judge with what interest I now sur^
veyed a coimtry which, at least as far as the eye could reach,
equalled Java in scenery and cultivation ; and with what
real satisfaction I stumbled, by the merest accident, upon
nothing but an inscription in the real Kawi character, en*
graved on a stone, exactly after the manner of those whidi
have excited so much interest in Java. Immediately op-
posite the house, or palace, which I have described, was

JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR OF SUMATRA. 42S

the mosque, a small square bufldiug. In front of tke
mosque, turned up on its edge, and serving as a stepping-
stone to this modem place of Mahomedan worship, was this
rehc of Hindu dominion. I soon traced the characters to
be the same as those we had discovered in Java. All
hands were immediately collected. In about an hour we
succeeded in laying the stone flat on the ground, and the
operation of transcribing was immediately commenced*
The evening did not pass without further inquiries. A
second inscription, in similar characters, was discovered
near the site of the former kudam, or palace. This was
on a stone of irregular figure, and partly buried in the
ground. We had only time to transcribe two lines of this.
On Friday, the 24th of July, we left Suruasa at seven, and
arrived at Pageruyong a quarter before nine, the estimated
distance between the two cities being not more than two
miles ; the road over low hills, in which we observed nu-
merous petrifactions : whole forests would appear, in some
remote age, to have been buried by some violent oonvul-^
sion. Passing along the sides of the hills, our attention
was repeatedly attracted by the numerous stumps and
trunks of trees in a state of petri&ction. These were
mostly protruded from considerable depths under ground.
" In quitting Suruasa we noticed several small tanks
and passed over the site of many an extensive building
now no more. The only vestige, however, of anything
like sculpture, beyond the inscriptions already alluded to>

424 JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR OF SUMATRA.

was in four cut stones^ which evidently had formerly served
for the entrance of the city.

" In approaching Pageruyong we had an excellent view
of the situation of this once famous city. ; It is built, as. I
before noticed, at the foot, and partly on: the slope of a
steep and rugged hill called Gunug Bongso, so remarkable
for its appearance and the three peaks which it exhibits.
Below the town, under a precipice of from fifty to a hundred
feet, in some parts nearly perpendicular, winds the beau-
tifril stream of Selo, which, pursuing its coiirse, passes
Suruasa, where it takes the name of the Golden Biver,
and finally falls into the river Indragiri. In front of the
city rises the mountain Berapi, the summit of which may
be about twenty miles distant. It is on the slopes of this
mountain that the principal population is settled, the
whole side of the mountain, for about fifteen miles from
Pageruyong in every direction, being covered with villages
and rice-fields. The entrance to the city, which is now
only marked by a few venerable trees, and the traces of
what was once a high- way, is nearly three-quarters. of a
mile before we came to the Bali and site, of the former
palace. Here little is left save the noble waringin trees,
and these appear in several instances to have suffered from
the action of fire : scarcely the appearance of a hut is to
be seen ; the large flat stone, however, on which the Sidtan
used to sit on days of public ceremony, was pointed out to
us; and when the weeds had been partially, cleared,: the

JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR OF SUMATRA. 425

royal burial-ground was discovered. In this we did not
discover any inscription in the ancient character; but the
ground was but very partially and hastily examined. We
were struck^ however, with the sculpture of later days, the
memorials of the dead raised in Mahomedan times ; these
were on a small scale, but very beautiftilly executed.

" Arrangements had been made for our accommodation
in a small house recently erected on the banks of the river,
to which we descended. Here we remained for some time ;
but intending to return to Suruasa in the afternoon, I
left the party and wandered for an hour or two.

"This city had shared the same' fate with that of
Suruasa. Three times had it been committed to the
flames by a remorseless fanatic ; twice had it again risen
to something like splendour : from the last shock it had not
yet recovered. .The Prince, no longer able to make a
stand against the oppressor, had fled to a distant retreat ;
and a few peasants now cultivated those spots which had
formerly been the pleasure-grounds of the rich. Where
the palace of the Sultan had stood, I observed a man
planting cucumbers, and the sugar-cane occupied the
place of the seraglio. From the heights of the town the
view stretched to the north and west, as far as the sum-
mit of the mountain of Berapi and the neighbouring hills.
The whole country, from Pageruyong, as far as the eye
could distinctly trace, was one continued scene of culti-
vation, interspersed with innumerable towns and villages.

426 JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR OF SUMATRA*

shaded by the cocoa-nut and other finnt-trees. I may
safely say, that ^s view equalled anything I erer
saw in Java; the scenery is more majestic and grand,
population equally dense, cultivation equally rich. In a
comparison with the plain of Matarun, the richest part
of Java, I think it would rise. Here, then, for the first
time, was I able to trace the source of that power, the
origin of that nation, so extensively scattered over the
Eastern Archipelago.

" I returned to the party where the Tuan Gadis and
Princes of the house of Menangkabu had assembled. A
royal salute of one gun was fired, and after three cheers,
we set out on our return to Suruasa.

^^ But I must not quit this (to a Malay) classic ground,
without informing you of a most interesting discovery. At
Suruasa I had discovered two inscriptions : here I looked
for them in vain, but unexpectedly stumbled upon some-
thing no less interesting : a Hindu image, chastely and
beautifiiUy carved, corresponding with those discovered in
Java, and evidently the work of similar artists, and th^
object of a similar worship. This image was mutQated,
but in sufficient preservation to decide thus much.

" The estimated height of Pageruyong above the level
of the sea is 1800 feet. In Mr. Marsden's map, Page-
ruyong is placed at about eighty-two miles N. E. of
Padang, and sixty-six firom the coast. By our obser-
vations we found it to be not more than fifty miles firom

JOaRNET INTO THE INTERIOR OF SUMATRA. 427

Padang^ and forty-five from the coasts in a straight line ;
the latitude being 14/ south, and longitude twenty-eight
miles east of Padang, or 100° 20^ east of Greenwich.

" We returned to Suruasa about three o'clock, and in
the evening I visited an extensive excavation where gold
had been procured in considerable quantities.

^' On the next day, Saturday the 25th, we left Suruasa
at half-past six, and reached Simawang on our return
towards Padang, at half-past eleven. Here we remained
till Sunday evening, when, to be prepared for an early
departure on the next morning, we descended to the lake
and bivouacked on the banks for the night, literally lying
down on the ground. While collecting specimens of
minerals on this spot, I discovered another inscription in
the Kawi character, the characters of which were nearly
obliterated by the constant action of the water. This
stone was lying among the rocks over which the waters of
the lake fell into the Indragui river.

'^ Monday, — ^The ba^age having been embarked on
the preceding evening, we rose at four, and by day-Ught
were nearly half-way across the lake ; four large boats in
company, which conveyed the whole of the party.

" Besides the pass into the Tiga-blas country, by
which we had passed from Padang, there are three other
principal passes leading to the Menangkabu country, at
Kati, Sindangbaher, and Paningahan ; that at Sindang-
baher, called the Sri-menenti, (the same term that is used
in Java for the entrance to the palace,) appeared to be

428 .JOURNEY. INTO THE INTERIOR OF SUMATRA..

the most frequented, but the road was said to lie along
the beds of several rivers : that of Kasi had nothing par-
ticular to recommend it ; but the pass of Paningahan,
though the longest^ was said to be the most practicable
for cattle, and to run principally on dry ground. I there-
fore determined to proceed by the last, in the hope of
.tracing something like a road which would admit of im-
provement.

'^ We accordingly quitted Paningahan on our return
across the Barisen about eight o'clock, and reached the
Gedong Papan, or planked-house (a toll-post), about
twelve. Contrary to our expectation, our course so for
lay almost entirely along the bed of a rapid stream.
Lady Raffles being fatigued, we rested at this place for
the night ; but several of the party went on to the next
resting-place. The ascent hitherto had been gradual, and
the scenery very romantic, the distance from the lake esti-
mated at six miles in a south-west direction. In a mine-
ralogical point of view, this ascent from the lake was by
far the most interesting we. had met with. We here
found abundance of granite, marble, great varieties of
limestone, beautiful masses of calcareous spar, and a
variety of subjects with which we enriched our col-
lection.

'' Tuesday, 2Sth July. — Left the Gedong Papan at six,
and ascended the mountains, our course being near the
banks of a rapid stream which we frequently crossed for
the whole of the. morning. At half-past nine reached

JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR OF SUMATRA. 429

another toll-post^ where we overtook the advanced party
and obtained some refreshment : set out again at eleven^
and continued ascending till three o'clock, when we reached
the summit of the highest ridge. The thermometer A¥as
here sixty-six— on the water, sixty-three: height above
the level of the sea, four thousand five hundred feet. We
now descended till six, when, just as the day was closing
in, we reached the toll-post of Sambung, after a most
fatiguing day's journey. The road was execrable, in some
parts wet and muddy, and exceedingly difiicult to pass —
estimated distance from the Gedong Papan not less than
twenty mUes.

" Wednesday^ 29th. — Started from Sambung at seven
in the morning, and ascended the Sambung mountain
until near ten, when we had the satisfaction to find that
the remainder of our journey was a descent down to the
sea-side. The road, however, was even worse than what
we had passed the day before, the descent being very
rapid, and the only fixm hold which our feet could have
being upon the roots of trees, which intersected the path
in every direction, and from which the earth had been
washed away. In many places this path was knee-deep in
mud for a considerable distance, and we could only pass
by stepping from root to root. This was even more
fatiguing than leaping from rock to rock, and our shoes
being soaked through, our feet soon became so tender that
it was with real pain we moved on : every step, on account
of the steep descent, was a strain to the muscles of the

430 JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR OF SUMATRA.

leg, and a wound or blow to the foot. The people on this
road carry their load in a very different manner to that
described on the road to the Tiga-blas country. Here the
load is lashed to a kind of frame or cradle, and elevated
to a considerable distance above the head, the lower part
of the frame being fastened round the head and shoulders.
It was proposed that Lady Raffles should be carried in
this manner, but we could not reconcile her to the at-
tempt. Salt, rice, &c., in loads of about fifty and sixty
pounds, are carried in this manner. At length, at about
two o'clock, we once more got a view of the sea from a
place called liring, where a small shed was erected, and
where the forest in some degree was cleared. From this
spot the country gradually opened ; and we descended by
a tolerably good road, passable for horses, through a
country which had once been cleared, and was still par-
tiaUy under cultivation. At five obtained a view of Pa-
dang Hill, bearing south by west, distance about ten
miles; in half an hour more arrived at Pinang, a comfort-
able hut, where we remained for the night. Here we
received fresh supplies from Padang, and found our
horses, which had been sent on to meet us. Our distance
this day we estimated at about sixteen miles : we were
now out of the forest, and nearly at the bottom of the
hills on the sea-side.

*' Thursday, 30th. — Started at day-light, and proceeded
partly on horseback and partly on foot ; our course to-
wards the sea for about six miles, the latter part of which

JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR OF SUMATRA. 431

was through a fine plain of rice-fields^ and along the banks
of a rapid stream. Pursuing our journey to Padang
through Cota Tinga and along the sea-shore, we had to
pass the mouths of two rivers, which, in consequence of
the rain that had fallen during the night, were not ford-
able ; we were in consequence soon wet through. Near
Ujung Carang, however, the gentlemen from Padang had
assembled to receive us on our return, and a buggy being
provided, we reached Padang without further difficulty at
about noon ; having thus completed our journey in four-
teen days, during which we had traversed, in a straight
line, about one hundred and forty, and by the course we
were compelled to pursue, not less than two hundred and
fifty miles, over one of the worst roads that perhaps ever
was passed by man.

^' What may be the eventual results of this journey, it
is impossible to say. In natural history, it has afforded
us a very interesting insight into the mineral kingdom.
We have traced the junction of the volcanic with the pri-
mitive series ; and, by the evidences afforded in our col-
lections, are enabled to estimate the mineral resources of
the country. In the vegetable kingdom we discovered no
less than forty-one plants, which appeared to Dr. Hors-
field entirely new, and certainly not contained in the
Flora of Java. The different elevations above the sea
were ascertained, some by barometrical, others by trigo-
nometrical observations — the latitudes and longitudes
fixed, partly by observation and partly by dead reckon-

432 JOITRNEY INTO THE INTERIOR OF SUMATRA.

ing. By crossing the range of mountains at different
passes we clearly ascertained that there are three ridges^
the central being the highest.

" The discovery of an extensively populous and highly
agricultural country cannot fail to be interesting. On a
moderate calculation^ the population^ within a range of
fifty miles round Pageruyong, cannot be estimated at less
than a million; by the returns I received on the spot^
the number appears more considerable. Throughout the
whole of our journey I did not observe a single Ladang,
that migratory kind of cultivation so accurately described
by Mr. Marsden, and so universal near the southern
coast ; it had long been superseded by the conversion of
the land into regular sawas> and the establishment of
fixed property in the soil; manufactories also are here
more advanced. Menangkabu has always been famed for
its cris blades. Iron has been worked from time imme-
morial. An extensive manufactory of coarse pottery neiar
the banks of the lake supplies not only Padang but Ben-
coolen with that useM article.

" Politically the greatest results may accrue. At no
very distant date the sovereignty of Menangkabu was
acknowledged over the whole of Sumatra^ and its influ-
ence extended to many of the neighbouring Islands ; the
respect still paid to its princes by all ranks^ amounts
almost to veneration. By upholding their authority^ a
central government may easily be established; and the
numerous petty states^ now disunited and barbarous^ may

ANECDOTES OF NATIVES. 433

be again connected under one general system of govern-
ment. The rivers which fall into the Eastern Archipe-
lago may again become the high roads to and from the
central capital ; and Sumatra^ under British itifluence,
again rise into great political importance.*'

One or two anecdotes of the natives may be added to
the above. When the people of the Tiga-blas country
first beheld the Editor, they seemed to be struck with
amazement, and the question was not, wfio is that ? but,
what is that ? The disguise of dress, and, to them, the
extraordinary appearance of fairness were unaccountable.
With all the wonder of ignorance they immediately con-
ceived that there must be something supernatural ; and
mothers pressed in crowds, imploring to have their chil-
dren touched as a preservative from all ftiture evil. It
was in vain to urge fatigue, to entreat to be excused ; no
one liked to lose so easy an opportunity of insuring ftiture
good, and the noise, the pressure, and confiision were not
a little amusing ; when one crowd was satisfied, a fresh
collected, and it would be difficult to guess the number
on whom was bestowed this slight but coveted act of
kindness. At Solaya the Editor was left alone in a
native house, with a sepoy stationed as a sentry at the
door to keep the people away ; but they collected in such
numbers that they overpowered him, and hundreds rushed
into the house to gaze and express their astonishment.
After this had been endured for a length of time, they
were entreated to retire and allow some repose to be

VOL. I. 2 F

434 LETTER TO MR. MARSDEN.

taken. With one accord they seated themselves in a
moment, saying, of all things they should like to see the
mode of sleeping, and that they would watch all the time,
and only sit and look ; and no entreaty could prevail
upon them to go away, so there they remained until the
rest of the party returned from the assembly of the Chiefs.
On reaching Simawang the same thing was repeated^ the
same curiosity and wonder ; crowds assembled to see how
the Editor took food, and during the night strange dark
faces were continually seen peeping through the curtain
which parted oif her place of rest from the numerous
inmates of the same room.

TO MR. MARSDEN.

" Bencoolen, August 15, 1818.
" My dear Sir,

" My last letter was from Pageruyong ; and you
will be happy to hear that we are again safe at Bencoolen,
without having suffered any serious injury from the
fatigues of the journey. We were absent from Padang
fifteen days ; and our course in the map was, in a straight
line, about one hundred and forty miles. For the details
of our journey I refer you to Dr. Horsfield, who will be
the bearer of this, and to whom, independently of his
claims as a man of science and research, I have to request
your kind attention as my particular friend.

" To Dr. Horsfield I have entrusted a sketch of our
route ; in his I have corrected the situation of Pageruyong,

LETTER TO MR. MARSDfiN. 435

which is a few miles different to what I stated in my letter
from thence. I do not think . we can be much out ;
perhaps you will be induced to consider it sufficient au-
thority for correcting the map. On this subject I am
anxious to hear from you. I have now an establishment
in two parts of the interior of Menangkabu and inland of
Bencoolen^ and I have some idea of traversing the central
districts from one end of the Island to the other. Do
you contemplate the publication of any improved addi-
tions to your map ? or shall I keep the observations here
until I can frame a new one ? I mention this because we
are badly off for draftsmen ; and under the existing regu-
lations of the post-office you may have trouble in securing
the detailed surveys sent as they are made.

" You will be gratified to hear that the neighbourhood
of Pageruyong contains a population of certainly not less
than a million ; that agriculture is nearly as advanced as
in Java ; and that in soil and cUmate we have reason to
believe Sumatra is fiilly equal to that island. The first
fruits of our establishment in the lulls have been the
regular supply of Bencoolen with potatoes, which hitherto
have been imported.

" Our discoveries in Menangkabu enhance the value of
Padang town ; it is the key of that place, and of all which
is valuable in Sumatra. Without this we can do nothing
— with it every thing. The measures which I have taken
will, no doubt, be considered strong; but our interests
have been so shamefully sacrificed, that I could do nothing

2f2

436 DEATH OF DR. ARNOLD.

less. Nothing but definite arrangements in Europe will
place things on their proper footing.

" I have to report to you two melancholy losses which
we have sustained. Poor Dr. Arnold, our naturalist, died
of a fever, occasioned, I fear, from the fatigues of our
journey to Pasumah; and accounts were yesterday re-
ceived of the death of Mr. HoUoway at sea.

" I send by Dr. Horsfield a fac-simile of one of the
inscriptions which I found at Suruasa. The stone to
which you allude as remarkable near Pnaman, turns out
to be modern, and a vestige of Dutch authority."

TO THE DUCHESS OF SOMERSET.

** Fort Marlborough^ August 16, 1818.

■»

'' My last letter to your Grace was from on board ' The
Lady Raf&es,* on our return from Padang and Menang-
kabu ; and I did hope, before the ship left us finally for
England, that I should have been able to give you a de-
tail of our subsequent proceedings ; but this is impos-
sible, and I must be content to send her off with a few
lines, saying we are all well.

" We are now tolerably quiet, but the earth continued
to quake for the first month after our arrival, and we were
seldom without one or two shocks in the day. The sen-
sation, particularly during the night, is very unpleasant.

" We are going on, I am happy to say, very well ; our
dear little Charlotte daily improving, and promising to be
every thing we could wish. Lady RafHes is quite well,

DIFFICULTIES OF THE JOURNEY. 437

notwithstanding the excessive fatigue of the journeys we
have taken ; the last occupied fifteen days, and we did not
walk less than two hundred and fifty miles over the very
worst route, for road there was none ; at first, up the bed
of a river, where we had to force our way by leaping from
rock to rock ; then for some days over hills covered with
forest, and the roots of the trees, which projected far
above the ground, our only foot-path ; the ascent some-
times so steep, that Lady Raffles was obliged to be
dragged up by two men, being often so fatigued she
could not raise her foot the length of the step, having to
walk some days from day-light, with one hour's rest at
mid-day, when the only refreshment to be obtained was a
little rice and wine, until eight o'clock at night, before we
reached the shed prepared for our night's lodging."

END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

JUN 3 1918

LONDON:
Prinloil by >^'illiam Clowis tnd Sovb*
SUmrord Street.