A voyage from Calcutta to the Mergui Archipelago, lying on the east side of the Bay of Bengal; describing a chain of islands, never before surveyed... also, an account of the islands Jan Sylvan, Pulo Pinang, and the port of Queda; the present state of Atcheen; and directions for sailing thence to Fort Marlbro' down the south-west coast of Sumatra; to which are added, an account of the island Celebes; a treatise on the monsoons in India; a proposal for making ships and vessels more convenient for the accommodation of passengers; and thoughts on a new mode of preserving ship provision: also, an idea of making a map of the world on a large scale A OYAGE FRO ZM TO THE CALCUTTA M E R G;U I A R C H i P E L A G O, LYING ON THE EAST SIDE OF THE BAY OF BENGAL; P)eEcribing a Chain of Ifianda, never before iurveyed, hat form a trait on that Side of ihe'lfay, 12 M;Irs;a Lengt, and from to to 3p Miles in Bieadth; with good Mud Soundings and regular Tides throughout: which Strait lying nearly North and South, any Ship may work up againlb the South- Weft Monfoon, and ioget out of the Bay of Bengal, when othelaiie, me might be locked up for the Seafon. A L S O, AR Account of the laands Jan Sy)ao, Pulo P;nang,.andthe Pdrt of eueda; the prctent State of Atcheen; and ]DireAions for Sailing thence to Fort hlbp' down the Sputh-Weit Coalt of Sumatra: TO mHICH ARE LDDEBI An Account of the Inand Celbes; a Trcatiie on the Monoons in Ind;a;;l Propofal for malr;ng Ships and Vdfels more convenient for the Accommodation of Paifcngers; and Thoughts on a near Mode of preferving Ship Proviiion: Al/o, IAA Jda of making a Map of tbe CoP·ld on a large Scate BY THDR;IAS FORREST, EsQ SENIOR CAPTAIN OP THE HOYOURABLE COMPANY's MARINE AT FORT MARLBRO' IN rlfot ANB AUTHOR OF THE VOYAGE TO NEW GUINEA. The whole:itluftraeed with various Maps, and Views of.land; a Print of the Author's Reception by the Kai:.of Atcheen; and a View of St. Helena from the Road. Engraved by Mr. Caldwall. I(Tlt·,·oru SME and .Fa,igIlr nate Sramcn, and d(ing in du/Ry Anir(es itcrenjc tbei- h'unb API'OYI SOLD EY J. BOBSON, LONDO NE W B O'N D-- S T R F. E T; nT: i. OWEN, B?u'D B-LFOUR, EDINBURGH. N O. rG8, P I CC dDIL LT; BI.DCC.XCIT, 5 Page H Page K P R E F A C E. T HE great convulGons and changes that have happened in the government of three quarters of the globe within not many years, Aa, Anerii-a; and Ezcrope, afford choice of conjeAure to the contemplative mind zoha ·will happen next. A very diitant country, held in iubjeAion by the iivord, is a new feature in the annals of England; but, as we have paired the Rubicon, it mull be held by the iivord; there is no alternative; we have gone too far to recede: hovever in the long run, "It may corrupt our manners. A m;la government, a bIeiIing Ind;a never enjoyed, at· Ieait under its Mabomeran governors, may make it proiier, and it is to be hoped it will proiper note, more, gerkaps, than during any former tra of her exiitence; andas great part of Indo/Zan is come undkrthe fiOitering hand of Great BrifaljE) there is no dbubt but iEie W.ill incline there to cherik the welfare of her new iubjkt`s, to intro- duce amongit them the comfirts and conveniencies of life, to preierve peace among the dii`cordant' and: ambitious, and make the indoos.admire and revere our ecjuitable form of government, that interferes not with their rel'i5ious modes of worihip; the rock on which the PorrrrgueSe, the firit Europenn conquerors of India,- were· fhipwrecked. Something different from the Ncthotnctnn conquerors, who, although they avoided what was greatly fatal to the PortzlgueSe, equalled, if not iirpafied them in the deceitful purfuits of ambitious conquei2. I-Iaypy will itbe for Grent Bi.itdjn if ihe knows where to itop, to be content with what ihe has got, and make thofe who have caufed this preient direningr war pay the expence from tEie revenues of their reieAive domains, and give us commercial advantages in uGnLS Britiil manuatures, which may often the rigour of immediate exaaions, peculiarly hurtful tp a ravaged country. A. Since Page L PREI: ne E. Since n·1-ltlng the following pages, I have learnt that the EaCt- India Company have rei-lved to import fugar from their eaitern I'OiTciTons; a reiblution of great wiidom, iound policyi and bene- volence, as Bengal can produce any quantity of that neceirary luxur·y. The itrone;connetion i-gar has with tea. makes the keeping down its price of the utmot coniEquence to our China trade, and the misfortunes of St. Domingo throw out of the EraL pcan market an immeni`e qu·antity, which muit be got i-mewhere, or the rife of its price, already bearing hard on the middling cam munity, willbe immenik. The ultimate advantage in iuch an undertaking will depend on the lo\y price Pue;ar can be afforded at in Ben,rral; and Ie I muit obferve, that as iugar-making there, is carried on by a free people, where rice, their bread, is immeniely cheap, where rich lands, long fecundated by the flime of the Ganges, the AJS'atic nie, may be had for taking up, PuSar may be made at a very low price indeed. Many of theCe lands, nrbat is called the Simdra buNn's, and others at the mouths of the Ganges, if we may believe the hiitory of Bengal, were formerly well inhabited, but lying very convenient for invaGon during the fine months of January and February, were much plundered and depopulated, vhcn.protetion was negteQed or withheld, by invaders from Arracnn, called Mzlg, and other piratical people on the eait ilde of the Bay of Bengaa, There is no doubt but many f' theie lands may, by encouragement, be again brought into cultivation, and produce rich crops of rice, i-gar, c. The lands at the mouths of that: great river certamly rife (although iniEnfibly) every year, by the flime of the Gdnges. I remember in 1784, or ;, in cleanrng and deepening the Sreat: refervOir.at Calcclfa tees were fown? Ceval fee.under the botp tom: this could only happen from a general rife qf Coil in a cour try that is naturally flat. In Bengnl, where the inhabitants are not only protec'ted in their property, but encouraged to early matrimony, and folloving th-r induitrious occuyations, to whichr by prejudice and education, they happily have a natural turn, the field to aL on is immenie) and Since n·1-itinrr s $, if Page M PREFAC E. if followed up, Bengal could not only iupply helielf and great part of AJia, which ihe has always done, but all Eur·ope, with fugar made by free men. The price of iigar in Calcurta was, not many years ago, 7 current rupees (rq·ihillings), for a faAory maund of two thirds of a hundred weight, or 21 ihillings for one hundred weight, or z pence farthinl: per pound'. The price of Dutch powdered ugar at Batavia I have Rnown much cheaper, where it is made by freemen, generally C15;neSe : much of it goes to HollanLa. We have cultivated iugar at BEncoolen, and I believe do fo now; but it would eem cultivating it by Company's flaves, and the high price of iugar has prevented the icheme from anikierin The Malays are a lazy, indolent race of people; the pepper they plant on Sumatra is all by compulfion, for which the· plaster ultimately thanks the Compa"p when he finds his hoard of dollars greater than that of i lefs induitrious neighbour: but to return to Bengal. James C h riitie, Eiq. of Apole ·i-, a great iugar planter and rum-maker, who, by his benevolence and mild management, has ereAed vilEages on his eitate, told me, about five year·s ago, that he wiihed for and expeaed iome ucli permifiion as has been granted; and laid fur- ther, that tobacco mightbe curivat;ed in Bengal, and aniwer the Company's iending home. CbnnoiiTeurs in Rappee have all heard of ML1=ulipatnnm lnuff, from which;t· would appear Eat-lndia to- bacco made into ihuff has a peculiarly agreeable Aavour, The many vies of land on the Mergtli Archelngb may give the reader iome idea of the natu-re of thefe iflands: being under the regular change of the monfoons, they are not i`ubjeA to hurri- canes, as our iflands are in the WZlndies. Srt. MartSeze, SuSaatnah, Dommell, Lord l;ozhborough, c. Idtnds ieem, from their pleaiant appearance, to invite cultivation; they " There is great demand at ruron, in CoFh;n China, for the muflins and cottons of Ben- blal, and there rugar is exceedingly cheap. ruron is an excellent harbour, at the mouth- of a Ipacious river. A faBory there might anfvrer. See Poivre's Travels of a PhiloCopher. -t- Mr. Criitie pays the Company a thouiand Sicca rupees a year for a tma of land which he has peopled without purchafing a Gngle flave. Two hundred weight make khree fatory maunds, A z greatly Page N PREE'AC E. ·eatly leremble the ifland Soolo :(that Paradiie for fruits), lying eait of Borneo, not only in iize, but pic2ureikue appearance. There iflancts are covered with many tall trees; their ihores breed immenfe quantities of fi and oyiters, and iPlem to be in a ital.e of nature; they are fit.to produce all tropical fruits, iigar, 6c. c. They merit being ettled by us befol-e uncxpeEted gueits take poffeiron, anti cauie difputes. ]I did all I could: I hoiited on St. Matrheze in F Baql, and.]eft flying, a Britiih flag. U'hat I have faid of the Ifland Celebes may be new to many; in iize it refembles Great Britain; in population better than one half, The Dzltch, who l;;nov moit of it, wifely keep their knowledge to therniielves. ·The BtlggccS ieem to be much more liberal minded than any of their Malay neighbours: the Mindanos come next to them for opennei`s of charaAer. TerotTr;ty, the BgeSs c·htain, mentioned in the following pages, ieemed :to be a conrummate politician; and whilit he amuied and pleaied IClr. Goles, by liitening attentively to his Rories of Europe (for Mr. Goles rpoke elegant Malazy), he undermined, and i,, few days overthrew the Malay Sultan's government, Teroway did got rait, as William did of old, until James withdrew, but told the Sultan he muit depart, arl leave he government of Yair to thoik who better dererved it,`by having always preierved its freedom from Dutch influence; and, to his credit, Teroway effeAec the revolution without the leait bloodihed, or violation of pro- perty, that I ever heard of. The Eeven diffrent governments on Cclebes, reckoning the Dutc qRe, St One in nind of the L;nSlj heprrlrchv of old. 'I'Vhatever nation takes the BzSees by the hand, may lead them again to celt a figure in eaitern Jndila, which it is i`aid their anceitors did, ome centuries ago, u.ncler 4he kings of Goa. The BzcggcSs Aag is generall,p blue, with deviations according to what diitricct it belongs. I forgot to mention, that at ue4 T Eaw th:er;%rtion of 1·11 aqu"tic mano=uvre, never ued, ·I believe, but by CineSe. The adnr-ial ChinJ junk Zlad Sot agrounii on the left hand iide of the ri\cr looking up, and it was found neceirary to can-y out an anchor to get ner otT. There was fo much freih in the river at the time, that Page O PnEFAc E. that the tide ran itrong down even at high water, n ntooden anchor, the bills of the flukes ihod with iron, and the aank above I 30 feet long, was put into a kind of punt, about 24 feet long; the flukes hanging over the itarboard bow of this boat, whilit the horizontal itock of the anchor lay level over the larboard cluarter. Eight men were in this boat, four of them provided with large handpikes; the other four managed a long oar, like a icull, at the item, that hung and turned upon a itrong pivot, or iron i`emiglobe, fixed in the middle of the Bern, which went into an iron i`ocket in the i`cull. The'-exertions of theie four men were very violent for about a minute, in which time they effeAed their purpofe of being able to drop the anchor a little above the junk in deep tater: they feemed to make the icull vibrate like the tail of a fifll, on which principle ·it certainly acs: no number of oars -could have done what they did, The CIJ:neSe work veffels of above 200 tons in-this manner; many more than four men at;L ICU11, and with ieveral iculls: the cull ieems to be abiblutely neceirary in the narrow canals of ·Cton, where oars cannot be uSed. The Engrliih failors give the name of rirbm nga4nJZ tide to the tea lighters that 50 from Cc;nton to -ampa : they ieldorn drop ·along-fide of their reipeiStive ilip, but cull up agamit the current of the tide, as being the ffi·ft waj·. ;Such an improvement as the C7ineSe fcull introduceii amon%i revenue cutters, not too much bound up with wood and iron, but ·like the Fly ketch, tvould greatly help to fupprefs iin!ggling, whilit an aA of parliasllent ihould prevent the fame being uCed by any other veiels, except plraiure-boats, and that by ipecial j;cenik. What I have i8ici of the ChineSe i`cull and indinS-up boom of the lail of the BzlgsgeSs padual;an and A;clJeen kolay, ar-e· iubjeAs worthy of diicufiion by the Eociety for naval a·chiteliture, where there are many .able judges of theCe and oher naval natters, Page P Errata. | Directions for the Binder. Page Q E R'R A T A. Page 4', for Sapm wood uead Sapan wood. 53, for mape monde read map of the world. '3i for when hit. Hughes ucad before Admira Sir Edtffard Hube. DIRECTIONS FOR TME BINDER. Author's Portrait, and Viem of St. Helena, at the Beginning, next after the Map of the Mergui Archipelago ? 'f2afs Harbour and Pera niver 3an srlan Ralay Song, and Interv;ew with the King of Atcheen Atcheen, and Part of the Coait of Sumatra Sumatra Views Parre rr8 o Track of the Tartar Galley--Bay of Bengal ircular View of f3aCs Harbour Minnano Marriage i, long VieT of the Merui Archipelago at the End· 36 Go 64 90 Iis rqr Page R V o 1 um a So ann a d Has No Illustrations Contents. Page S CO TENT S. INTRODUCTION VOYAGE FKOM BENGAL TO THE MERC;UL ARCHIPELA-O IN THE ESTHER BRIG. Leave the Ganges--paSs the Prepnris--Sze, Narcot2dam--Saze, the IJlands I'orres--paSs to leezeard of Clara--anchor o Olive iJland--Sazet tzeto prczws--plan various Seeds ofione frilir-- Saw an e;rtenEve Jtrair to the Jowll4ward--re'erence to land. uieze--Marble. Harboiw--Garden. IJktnds--Ea breland-- South Foreland--Siable's Strait--Wheeler's Srmit--We/fminet: Hall-- Lord Loughborough's 17nd-- Sir John MacpherSon's Srrait--Sir JoSeph Banks's I_F?nd--Sir 2iiam James's IJland,. or StlSannah--Bonnet Iflands--A/derSey'J Srrair-large and /iirall oy_/2ers-Flat IJZand--Dommel I7and--IZandSt. Matthew --Nine Pins, Naked Hilmp, and Needle Rocks-Various /insll lands, namedfrom their apparens L7ape and relatjveJi5zlatian --Five IJlands--CoaJ1' of Mergui--Aladine IJlnnds--Lord Ma- carlney's Bny-Ht;ngs's Bay-FF Harbour-SuppoSed har- bour on the main--Alexander's Peak--Sayer IJlands--Junk Cey- lon-Pulo Rajah--Sailfor ueda; account of itand Plo Piirang c 111. ACCOUNT OF THE ISLANI JAW S'ILAN. Situation-extent-name-Popra Harbour--Pulo Panjang-Strait Leheer - I'erozea Village -gavernmenf-uillagcs-populatian- vS1Ft the governor Pce-peemont--frzlits --nnimals --climLlre-- opium -trade --pagoda-- ellopys-- money called poof--gover- nor's monopoly. of rrad Page i 29 ACCOiTNT Page T CO'NTET A%COUNT OF ATCEEN. NclmP-es-ren2-magtrirude-reve#zce-manlfaEttlres-kt;rg's moto- po of trade-excellent fruits-trade of the Cutias--itnports--. King's apprllarion--oicers of pate--money--weghrr and mea Jirres-exporrs-jnd/J2ry of the Chulias--JicJing boats called Kolrry-Jellore-Balle/lang-Bantin --face of the counrrjl-- S·welling of the river--excellent 150rSes--deprh on the bar-Salt gots--Mad;zin .boars--dripd donetta--king's pakce--(Dullun2) Surrrt Pag-kp·e--Nalaboo, very Smallfihing boars--SooSoo Har- a, - Bomba-y Jip - PorsugueSe trade - counlry ljps--va Enlh ucgkls nrt ;o at Ped;riAlclJeen treachery ; horrid mur- der sfJiue Europeans-audience of the king in r76qi--preScnrs --king's appcarance-reprchenEan cjrotn rie minli'er-king'rpo.. litencSs--preSntJ· reiur·ned-embayfrom Benccoolen to Atcheen 1 I?72--1'0"61es in the roze,l--embay proves abortiz)e--v;lit Atcheen in 1775- king's ili'neSJ--if Aschesn in I784-- audience of the king, SulfL7n OrJladine--15is rEmars on gun car- riageJ-d·-reion3frther intercourSe with the King--Send of tnuJic--am crenred kn'Shf of ihe golden Sword (oran caio derry piddang mas)--ake Lave--k;ng afraid ofh;s nobles-appearance ·of the pialace--kn'r cihclrdE3cr-elephants-tnoJ·ues --pri2s-- punhmenis--range ypPUeJ3 of an Alcheetlcr-ci5rtTclnPt" of the AtchcEners--no ChineSe at Archeen--Mr. NarSden's juJt account of Sumatra afSa;ldng Srom Atcbeen Road down r6E caaJt of Sumnrra--Surat Pag/ige-Sedre Pag;gee-Siddoo Harbour--K;ng's Bq--ozens in King's Bdy--Srrddle Itnd--Cima-hnt Hill--Cap I/land-- NnlnBoo - SooSoo - Double Cnpe--Ptc(o Duo-- PoaA of Pulo Bania--Paage IJZand--diretions to paSs ir--Sinkel River-- 1;Paga Harbaurr-Capt. Dggin's mate aiacd here in '753 --ShlP Euper;ment ze(recked on Bird IJland in I772--Pulo Ma- aular--1T'appanbol Harbour From bppanooly to Fort Ilbrlbro'--CaScade on Il·fazzclm convenient lo water at with cJiSpafcn--Caracarq Hill--Nata/l Hill and 37 6r Road Page U CONITENT S. Raaff--lammon Isnd and Harbour-Ship Shaftsbrok la15-- qver BonUou Road-Good police of the Dutch-Pulo Ibojoo-- Yadang Head-Good Road of PEclo P;Sang-Pulo Cinco Har- bour-Serenty IJland and Road-No lhelrer for ipping between Serenty and Fort ilTarlbro'--Rat Iand BaJon--Prc/o Bay, zm- bc(rFy-Recomnendd to be avoided OF THE ISLAND CELEBESI bVame-S;luaiion-Bgge/"s Bay--lbmince Bay--fob Bsy--if- ire PaternoJier 'lnds-C(inwe-RivPPs-Six drijrums of Ce- (cbes - Gaa--Bony - FYarjoo --Sopin - Silindrin - Mandar-- fi[lPSS coln;es--Ga attacks MacaO in I 7 8 o-CharaAer of the BueOs--ExrenJive trade--ReaJons zo the Dutch Ke,PPPogebn ·J what they have on CBlebs-ManufaAures-SJipping-Bug- gpSs /tl.icage-JEJtOt-y (oJI-mgenuiry-Rel·;on-Marriages-- ·ii·ade to NeTie, Hol·land--Revolution of government at Pajr, in r772; honourable behaviour of the BuggeDes to the Engl on that ocraJion--lrcar/3, produce of Cele6es to the Dutch in gold-- Dutch Fort near Koanang--DeSclption of the; Sewa or BuggeSr Bay--lan Bny--Noqsredab iranfiee, his hints about uarrbus harbours on Balv and Lomboc--Mode of getting old on Celebes rand Sumatra A TREATJSE ON. THE PIONSOOrS IN EALST-INDIA. I NT RODUC T EON O$ the onSoonr in getarat Of the CsI1Srs ofshe MXnSoons in India,- their Anolog;Y to what we Jaizd in the Atlantic ; and how they coincirle with or oppoSe the -nde 1Tinj· of the Midde CroSs Winter 1MonSoon Of the CraS1 Summer MonSoon Of the mt eligible I;nck to keep from Europe to Ea-ld;a Of the Man/roans of the South-Wcj7 CoaJf' of the Jnnd Sumatra 6j 70 93 96 99 102. "03 1"7 Of Page V CONTENT S. Of the propeu Cack to KPeP in going ftom Madras, or Bel2gn't, to Bencoolen, atavia, or Parts further Ea/i, during the 4inler Nonlh-EaJ MonSoon Of the liack to Keep from Madras, or Bengal, to Bencoolen, during the South-t/ejZ 2LotlSoota Of the be rrack to Keep from IndoJan to Cele6es, or the Moluccas, during the South-WeJZ Mon/ooon OfSailsizg from Indocm to Magindnno at all irnes of the P^ear Of the Outer Pa-ge to Bomba3/; of Cros Zjinds in the BaY of Bengal; CEcrrents in the ·China Seas·-; South CoaJt of Africa ; Pa-Ege Home PropcSalfor tmnking shs and Ye-ls nzore convenient Sor the ranSpoYafion of PLz-lziet·s I'hozlghts on the beJ2 Mode ofpreServing Sea Provtbn; or, of yiEt,,l(ing S5ips in Yarm Countries Tnea of n2nking a Map of the Vold rra Ira "S II IIg 123 I29 '3g I N T I O- Introduction. Page A-I _ -- -_ INTRODUCTION. VVHEN we confider of what importance our poflkhions in India are now become to the Britifh nation, every thing conneted therewith, either in a commercial OF political light, has a title to public attention. The following is a ihort account of a chain of iflands that lie on the eaft: fide of thelBay of Bengal, which might, to this hour, have been as little kno·cvn as they were many rears ago, if, when i: iet out from Calcutta in June r783 to iusveythe-Andeman Iflands, I had not fallen to leetvard of them, Theie iflands, known %enerally by the name of the Mergui Iflands, or the -Mergui Archipeiago, I unzwares and unexpecedly fell upon; and though I had often feen many of them in running uy the Bay of Bengal, I had no idea of their lying in that regular order in yhich I four;d them, forming a cdnneaed barrier againft the iouth weft monioon, for· a length of a hundred and thirty-five miles from northto iouth, with a itrait·between them and the main land, from thirty to fifteen milks broad; and good anchorage, good bundings, and reular tides, all the way. Through this ftrait-a veCTel may tide it up· from the ifland Clara lymg in 11" Ig' (which may be confidered as the key to it, entcr- inS from the Bay of Bengal) to the Aladine Iflands, in I)" north latitude; whence, with a fpirt of wind, which· in July and Auguit B bften Page A-II ;; often harrE;s to the nortllardof well, ne may get On, round At- cheen Head Y, and ib procee? to Europe; thus ejcaping being em- bayed, as ihips heretofor·e have often been, and obliged to loie many months in coniEquence of their being in a manner locked up in different harbours until the north-eait monibon retumed, The harbours they generally went to were Nigrais in Pegu, Syrian River in PeSu, and a harbour behind King's Ifland (nearly eait of Clara. Ifldnd) in Mergui, a map of which harbour (much fre- qualted by the French formerly) is publimed in the old Zndia Di- reAory by Thomtan. Was this chain of iflands one continued ifland, it doubtls long before now would have attraaed notice; but the maps extant ha- ving thrown down a parcel of iflands at. random, generally mall, and no ibundins, the navigator, afraid, looks an them all with a iuipicious eye; and having no chart on ·which ,he can in the leait depend, chuies to have nothmg at all to fBy to them, and puts his ihip's head another way, The iflands are generally divided by bold channels, and I am cer tain there are many more than what are repreiented in the may: lome rocky iiand's, iome hilly, iome flat; bu in general, covered with trees on a good ibil, in a climae always cool and favourable to vegetation; great plenty of fiih; and the rocks which border the inaller ifiands are generally incrufted with a iinall delicate. oyiter, betMleen high and Ioui wafer mark, with which a boat prc- ientlygets a loading: there are alio larger oyiters found in the mud, at low water, and a particular dam ibrt with red rtYs, The higheft rife of the tide is twelve foot on the fprings; and the vici- nity of the continent moderates the very freih gales that prevail in Mapin fetched Atcheen Road, where the fhip will meet with good refremment, me can back and fill with the tide through the Surat paIage, on the aarboard tacit, anchor in a imooth road behind Slipper Rock, near Siddo Harbour, put off, and with the wind at W and NW get down the coait of Sumatra,-$ee the Voyage to N. Guinea. the Page A-III ;;; the Bay of Bengal during the iouth-\aeft moni`oon, and which in one particular part of the bay, being checked by the high and ex- tenfive mountain that lies in a north and ibuth diretion the whole length of the great endeman Ifland, blows with redoubled force a few leagues to leeward of that ifland, in very deceitful flurries and iqualls, and then lulls for ten or twenty minutes, as I experi- enced frequently in this voyage, when, falling to leewardj I endea- voured in vain to work up. The climate and foil being io good, I make no doubt but that many European vegetables and tropical fruits would grow in great abundance. -There are alfo ieveral harboura and good roads for ihipping. HaftinSs Bay is land-locked, depth from eight to five fathoms, and very capacious. On the oppofite coait is a river that is navigable for fmail veirels a little way up to the ithmus of Kran where the porterage or carrying place is but fix hours to another river called Tomfong, which, without falls or rapides, runs through a well in- habited country, iubjet to Slam, abounding in rice and cattle, into the bay of Slam, near the Larchin Iflads (iee the DireAorg). This account I had from Pee-peemonl governor of Jan Sylan in 1784 (commonly called Junk Ceylon), for the king of Slam, and formerly governor of KraF·, when the country about Kraw was \vell inhabited, and the road acrofs the;fthmus much frequented, before the wars which, thirty years ago, between the Peguers and Birmahs or Burmahs, had greatly depopulated this quarter. The French uied to freuent King's Ifland near Merui, and taught the natives how to build fhiys, not only there, but at ·Ran- 500" in Pe%u alio. MerSui has a good harbour; but a ftrong hold there would not be Eo eligible as one at St. Matthew, for two rea- fons: the firQ is, that the harbour -behind Kings Ifland is not in ba the Page A-IV ;·v the trac of ihipping, bejnS a F;ood way to the caltvard, and i;, far has thediidvantage of being what the French call a cul deSe in the iouth teit monCooa; a i`econd reaion is,- that the vicinity of the Power of the continet, of which the i`ettlement is iuppoi`ed to be independent, might be irkfdme, as thel-e is no doubt of the vait power of the Birmahs, to wlie armies a ihort tranrt to King's ]Ifland would be nothing; but dimcult to tranfhort a force to St. Matthew, ihould we think fit to ol,poiE it with a fingle EriSate. The irnmenfe riches of the continent of Pe,au--wh·etherin the necefiaries of life, teal; timber for ihip building, bees wax, tin, dam- mer, earth oil for preiervingr teak built ilips, flick lack,.ihell lack, jars of' all dimenGons, iiime of immsn iize, much iought for all over India, rattans, and many other bulky commodities--al·e well knovn; without mentioning the more precious articles of old8 Ellver, and precious itones, eCpecially`rlbies. A iinall traffic has alwajs been carried on fr-om Corot;nandel and Bengal to this coun- try; but it might be greatly extended. The Enlifh, French, and Portuguee.are generally the carriers of coco-nuts from the Carni- cobar Ifland to YeSu, of which I believe there never as a glut; ib much is the coco-nut contidered, almoit as much as rice, a necei- ·i8ry of life in Pegu: and although the iflands that. produce them are much nearer Feg than Coromandel, yet, not being a maritime people, they are iupplied with what they cannot do without by i2rangrs. It is needlefs for me to lay how far we izould lull the Peguers in their indolence, thereby increafingour country ihip- ping, and of courfe our Laicars (Indian iailors), a worthy iit of people, who, as Seapoys, having often fought our battles with cl·edit on ihore,ould, I dare fay, fromwhat I, know bf. them, diT- tinguiih themfelves at iea, when mixed with a imall proportion of Europeans. The coco-nut hich the Peguers, Birmahs, and all the jnhabi tants The Enlifh, French, and Page A-V (p tants of the continent on this eait fide of the Bay of Bengal arb particulat·ly fond of) does not thrive but near the fea: the n·lcrgui- iflands wor!lci pl-oduce millions of them. The nut, when iiveet, is uCed much incommon cookery all over India; and, even when ran- cid, gives oil for various ues, efpecially in mixing with lime to pur on ihips bottoms, ·to exclude the orm. The rind or hulk malres good rope, called coir; and the palm nrine, called at Madras teddy, if not ured fweet, makes excellent vinegar. VCre, much to our credit, gave a bounty to ihips to g to Green-- land to catch whales, becaufe oil muit be had for lamps as well as kiys bottoms. The whale gives only oil and a little whalebone;: the coco-nut gives oil and a moft excellent rope. Weire theie iflands colonized by Indians from the coait of Coromandel and Bengal, S'OVes of coco-nits mould fbon appear. Coromandel does not pro- duce coco-nuts iufficient for its own coniilmption, perhaps at pre- lent leis than formerly; and, yet, during Mr. Saunders's govern- ment in I75A I have known Chulia (Moors) veffs carry cocaT nuts from the N.icobay Ifiands to Madras, a diitance of feven hun- dred-miIes. I fear univerfally the late depredations of 4ar have much diminiled the number; for, to a hungry Seapoy, the cocol nut tree is both food and fuel". The coir makes excellent rope;- and, beiIlg elaitic, gives io much, play to a ihiJ) that rides hard at anchor, that, with a cable. of one hundred and twenty fathoms, the. flips retire or give way ibmetimes half their length, when oppoied to a heavy iea, and inftantly koot ahead again; the' coir cable, after being fine-drawn, recaveringits iize and ipring. It is a uiual thing for valuable large ihips that leave the Ganges in Auguit and · SeDtember, aSainit the i`outh-\Yeft monibon, to have a coir cable frem made· under the eye of the chief officer, for a itand-by. Nemyen cables are itrong and itubborn, and ihips often founder "· The heart of a coco-nut tree. weighs from twentyto thirty pounds, and i:s as good as y.oun cabbage. that, Page A-VI v; that ride by them, becauCe nothing itretches or gives way; the coir yields and recovers. I believe the Pegu government care little about thefe iflands, and I dare lay would not oppoi`e our ettling in them; nay, iuch is the ignorance of theCe AGatics, from whit I have heard, that, were we to lay by an ambafi-dor to Ava, the capital of Pegu--St. Matthew is ufeful to us on account of its harbour; let us poifeis it, and we will i-pply your country with coconuts, which our Indoi- tan iubjets will plant themi`elves, and even carry them home to you, at the old price of ten rupes per hundred--were we to lay io, I reallt ilieve they would gladly clofe with our propoCal, The Peguers conCume a deal of iron, not only in bars and bolts, but wrouht up in all kinds of tools for ihip-building, and all forts of coirimon cutlery. They have built for Europeans man); excel- lent ihips, paid for in nothing but Indian orEuropean merchandize. Our woollens find a good market, een iold dear as they are at ie- cond hand: the confumption would be immenie had we an agent at Ava. In a country of iiCh great extent, and where mere territory is of little value, ibme parts are utterly negleted; but even this ne- gleB has its advantages in a particular initane. A great way abov Avl there is a trat of country lying between the kingdoms of Pgu and China: here an annual fair is held during the fine months of January and February; for the other ten months it is a derert. This I learnt from a MonGeur Chapel .at Calcutta, who had long reeded at Pegu; and ihews great politicalwiidom, as it prevents the goAlbility of dirputing about borders. In Bengal they build ihips, but they have no good timber. The teak comes moitly from Pegu; iome from Batavia and Bombfly. Q A Page A-VII v;i A teak ihip, oiled yearly with earth oil, will Lalt againit four oak ihips. At Surat and Bombay they oil the infide of their ihips ret gularly when they come off a voyage. In time of war, we certainlycould have frigates built in Pegu, and paid for entirely in merchandize: the merchandize is fold for teecalls, a round piece of iilver, itamyed, and weighing about one rupee and a quarter. The teecalls are of different fineneCs, and the itranger muit employ a ihrof Thefe teecalls are forbid to be·er ported. I have mentioned coik- for cables: coir makes alio imall c9rda Zor running rigging; and it paflies much freer through the blocks than hempen rope, which, if wet, grows hard, and does not run free, owing to the tar cafing it, by the heat of the climate ; and the- rope is itu-bborn, eCpecially after rain. There is great choice of timber on thefe iflands; pofubly tere- $ teak, but I did not find It. I found the MaIsly poon excellent for malts; and iaw many other tall and itately treesi in the: woods. There ace many beds of black flate and marble, much dammer,. iwallow Gb;cbe de mer), for the China market;. and edible birds nefts, E am told, are found in plenty amongft the iadine Ifiands, T]lhete· is every wher much coral. rock fitt for burning into·lime. Bat it may be iaid, C To what purpaie trade in theie bulky af·i. tides i There is no profit by dealing in coco-nuts, timber, aate,. itone, and lime." PofTbly our anceftors-i8id Go-of coal. The Spa- niards certainly argued thus when the precious· metals were brought firit from America to Europe, thinking themieltes happy in proportion to their value,_combined with eaTy carriage; and·r Page A-VIII ( Eiii and poffibly, -if it is frue what is faid of the navigation laws they mean to niake, t·bey now iee their miitake. It aIib may be iiiid, the EaEt India country ihips will not be able to ·i`ae i`ailing-chargcs. Here I mull obierve that; in India, vefikls fitted out.,.nd failed by natives alone, rail at-a much lefs expeace, even lei- than one half,of what they do when fitted by Europeans, although failed by an Indian crew; iuch is their frugal manage- ment: and, amongit there iflands, the Laicars could nearly main- tain theIni`eves with fiihing, fi-oln inexhauitible ftores; and find many articles to fill uy,their veireis, -that Europeans would never thinkpf; therefore, being encouraged, would nruch increaik our Indian Eailocb A Aeet of ihips can get from Hait·ngs Bay to Madras, when no ikiipd can Set to Madras from Trincomaly; in DeCember: this is iurely·a great advantage. I conGder alib St. Matthem as being healthierthan Tiindomaly`; there being no very high noantains to itop the circulation of air, and caufe violent heats, as T am told theae often arefound at Trincomaly. As the well coait of the Bay of Bengal is inhoi;table for ihip- ping, there being no harbour for larg ihps ti;e opporte coait af- fords many excellent harbours, Airrakan, Chedu'ba, Nigrais, Sirian inPegu, a harbour near IMartavan, TavayRiver, King's Ifland, ik- Yeral harbours in:this archipelago not yet particularly iurveyed, of Tvhich I confider HaitinSs Bay on St. Matthe·cv as the capital i one, IJunk ·C=eJlon, Telibone, Pulo Lada, and Pulo PinanS already iEttl%d;, T·he two coalts differ: aICo materially inmany other reipeAs. Co- tomaadel has no Coundings about thirty miles from the hore;.this eait coalt has ibundings t degrees off Coromandel is, compara- tivcly Page A-IX ;x tively ipeaking, a clear country; this is covered with wood. Coro mandel is often parched with heat, from winds blowing over burn- ing fands; this is always cool. On Coromandel the mouths of ri- vers are barred with fand; here they are deep and muddy. Coro- mandel has often deitrutive gales; this, ieldom any. Coromandel is like cultivated Europe; this, like wild America near the lea: the firit has no precious metals; the lait produces gold, much Tlvr, tin, wax, and precious itones, chiefly rubies, befides many other articles already enumerated. In another voyage I made through this Itrait, in I78 I had an opportunity of correCting the mao made in the firit; but being bound to Rhio in the ftrait of Malacca, on particular bufinefs, I could not flay amongit the iflands ib long as I wilhed. In the two voyages through the itrai4 I made about forty different views of land, which I hope will in a great meai;re direc the navigator through this pleaiBnt itrait, never before iir·veped. It is about ik- ven or eight hund;ed miles nearly E by S of Madras; lefs than a week's fail, in the SW moni`oou; and, in the NE monibon, it may be fetched in fourteen days; becauik, although the current ets then to the fouthward near the coait of Coromandel, near the eaitern kore it ets to the northward, by the body of water com- ing from the ftrait of LMalacca out of the China ieas. I have iaid theie iflands can be colonized by natives of Indoftan, - mhoie diicretion of charaAer mould be moit likely to airmilate with the natives of the continent, and with whom in a fhort time they certainly would have intercourCe. The unequivocal proofs a·e could give both to the courts of Ava and Slam, that we did not ; at any thing on the continent; the iirrht of our force, in ihiys aim J whichmight occaGonilly touch at-St. Matthev; and the favour \re might obtain from botli theie courts, by offering mediation in their cluarrels, which often happen, they having been at. tvar about C five Page A-X (X) five years ago--Yould irnpreis high ideas notonIy of our power, but moderation. The commercial advantages we might by our addreCs obtain from both thefe courts, and the coniequent increaie of ihiFping, are urely objets of importance; berdes having a iea- port equal to any in the world, within a week's ail of Madras, in the vicinity of a country aboundingwith cattle and rice; and through that country, over the iithmus of K·raw, a pkehy inter- courie between Bengal and China by letter, without going round the Malay peniniul;i, by the Malacca itrait. A very infible account of Pegu has lately been written by Mr. W. Hunter, who iBys, " Althoughthe natives of Pegu may once have entertained prejudices to our diiBdvantaSe, yet there is every reaibn to believe that iuch an uniform moderation of conduA as has diitinguilhed the latter tl-aniaAions of the Britii government with the natives of India, would ·Ioon remove them all. The pre- ent government of Pegu expreis the higheft.reipet for the Engliih Eait India Company: and they Save an example of it in the treatment of the Succei`s Galley, the ihip Mr. Hunter was in; which, becauie ihe was loatled on account of that company, en- joyed much greater indulgences than any other foreign veifel that ever entered the port of Rangoon. Here it is iufficient to hint that a ikilful management between the tnvo nations that inhabit this country, the original Peguers and Birmahs, might make the nation that ihould undertake the office of a mediator highly reijptAed by-bbth parties." What Mr. Hunter iBys of the healthinels of Pegu, even during the rains, I have hejd aflkrtcd by manp. VO U- Voyage from Bengal to the Mergui Archipelago ? in the Esther Brig. Page 1 V O Y A G E FROM BENGAL To THE MERGUI ARCHIPELAGO ? , IN THE ESTHER BRIG. Lerrvr the Ganges--pSs the Prepar;s--Saw Narcondam--Sazv th Ij2ands I'orrer--pa-s to leezeatd of Clara--anchor o Olive Iznd--Saw tzoo prozets--planr variousSei·ds ofone fruir--/bze, an extenJEveJfraif to Ihe Souhzuard-rcferencc to land Yieutr--Marble Hardour--Garden I7ands--Eat Forelanrl7--Soutb ForelanZZ--Sdables Sfrait--Weeler'r Strait--weJtminJter Hall, LorH Loughborozlgh's Iand--Sir S,bn MacpherSon'E Sfrait--Sir Joepb Bnnks's Jiclnd--Sir kYilliam gc·tnes ·Iand, or SuSannah--Bonnet Iands--A(dery's Strait-large and Small oyiers--Flat Iand--DommJ Jland--ITan St. Mattheze-- NinePins, NaRed I-lump, and Nde Rockr--hraPcJ Sid Eands, namedfrom the;r apparent Jhape and velaliveJituarion-F:ve Iands-- Coali ufMergui--Aladine I7ands--Lord Macartneyi Bny--HaJtings'r Ba)--Fh Hardour--uppoSed 6arour on the main--Alexander's i9eak--Syer Iands--Jznk Ceylon-Pulo Rajah,Sai(for qyeda; ac- cozmt ofir and Ptllo Pinctplg. I783· THE: pilot having been lent on board a inow that was paning, Suurday June 14th· by our own boat, at z PM we anchored on the EnJern Sea Reef, at the mouth of the Ganges, in Io fathoms,'Jand. I783· At ro weihed with the ebb tide, and lay up SSE before noon: made a SE courie 45 miles. ISth· The firit part moderate, the latter hard iclualls with rain, thpn- der and lightning: our courie to-day was SE by E 70 miles: had no obCervation. c z Southerly Page 2 1783· Monday June 16th. (2) Southerly winds moitly, nlith calms: made an ESE courCe, and run go miles. I7th. Mllch rain and many ijualls from the Couthward: tovardo noon calm, had a great iivell; courfe SE 301· I8th. Variable winds and calms, the iea much fallen: dried our fpare fails, and many other things, that had got wet and mouldy by the late damp weather. To-day many ihal-ks vere about the ihip; hi- therto have had no obCervation to be depended on; to-day found we were in 18" 381· Our meridian diitance from the Fairwa3y being 20 551· Igth. Variable winds, with ijually weather and rain: run only 57 miles. zoth. Freih' gales and dark cloudy weather: ran 79', on different couries, moitly SE; had no obiervation. erfc. Freih breezes and fair weather the firit part; from midniht the wind incleafed to a very Ereih gale; lay-to 3 hours in the night, wind at iouth; had no obiervation. 22d. Freihh gales at SSVSr, lay up SE; to-day ou·r meridian diitance from the Fairzeay was 3" It', our lat. 160 47/ by a good obiervation. 23d· Moderate weather, ran SE by S 96 miles; lat. 15" 43/ ztth. Moderate weather, lay up iouth, wind WSW; at night lay-to ibme time, on account of the Preparis Rcks. At day-light fgw them to Ieeward. At noon our latitude was I4" 4·0/ The N end of Preparis bearing A t·ock A in one, with a/pot ofSnd above water NE:E IoC ENE 6' by e8imatian and Page 3 I783· Wednefday June 25th. (3) anJ two iJlots, disjunt from the main iJJand, bearing when in one NE by N See View letter C, where the ofs are open. I find no current in my rui from the EaJiern Sea-Reef, making the Preparis lie 4' gd E of ir ; the run not to be depended on. Frefh breezes and cloudy weather. Saw Narcondam ; it makes like a cone, with the top obliquely cut off, bearing S. At noon it bore 8 by 7 8 leagues. t6th. Freih breezes from the SWI with rain'; lay up SE ; lot fight of Nnrcondam. tjth. Freih Rales from the SW, with heavy ihuaIls and rain; it iome- times ihifted to the NW, and blew hard, then lulled and·blew hard again in i;qualls. Ve were often obliged to run E and ESE, under main and fore ftayLfails, as there ran a great fea. 28th. Hard qualls from the S'W to the NW, and heavy rain.. At 8 PM lay-to under main and fore itay-6ils, At 8 AM made fail; had no obi`ervation. 29th· Hard ijualls from the SW, and heavy rain. At 6 PM lay-to under main and fore itay-gils, at night under bare poles. At 4 AM hauled the fore itay-iail down; juit after ietting is battened down the hatches, there being a great confuikd ·fea. At rr AM made fail, itanding Well, wind at South. Heavy Page 4 J783, Mondily June fth, (4) Heavy iqualls, with much rain; in the afrernoon we were under a fore itay-igil only; towards noon more moderate, lay up SE. Lat. T20 9 N. July Ii Squally, with heavy rain: about midnight handed all our i8ils but main and fore itay-iails. At I Cet them again. At 2 was obliged to lay-to as before, under main and fore itay-iail. At 5 it was moderate: made fail to the SE, wind at SW by S. At noon iBw the ifland Ibres bearing E 5 or 6 leagues off. No obiervation, , za, Sgually rainy weather; lay up SSE; the wind came ioometimes to Weft for half an hour, then came again a-head. At 5 PM it clearing up, a·cv the ifland Clara bearing SIS; flood off all night; in the morsing could not fetch in with ir, as I pro- pofed to anchor under its lee; brought it however to bear SW about 9 in the morning; we then had 29 fathoms, Sandy ground; bore away NE, along the coait of a large iJ2and, that lies in adi- reEtion pretty near NNE and SSW, between the ifland Clara and the main land of IbnnaSerim ; at the N extremity is a Smnll Ij2and, with a rocfi, like a Malay pro·re, under Sai cloie to if. Luffed up cloi to it in 15 fathoms, Sandy ground. It then bore SW; before noon we anchored in rg fathoms, mud; further on behind nnolhr Small i/land. Coming thus far from near Clara we had gradual ioundings, Sandy ground, ibmetimes with mud mixt, from 29 to 15 fathoms. A hip could very well have anchored in with Clara bearing SW, and be iheltered from the iivell. 3a. Squally rainy weather until morning; then fine weather. Shift ed farther in, to 7 fathoms, mti8ny bottom, At Page 5 2783· Jly. (5) At noon had a ievere ihuall, with rain as uiual: i41ifted farther ini to 4· fathoms, milddy bottorh ; lay here until the I3th, having moitly fQually weather, but the Iqualls mere of ihort continuance, with fair intervals, cool and pleaCant, with a clouded iky; whilit without there was all the appearance of ftrong gales and much rain; but I itili expeaed, as the veirel was itrong and tight, having hitherto, though often in very bad weather, made no water, to be able to get to the iouthward and weftward, to proiecute my voyage, and hoped to have the fame iinooth water under the lee of the Gr·ent Andaman as I found under this` ·large land near which we lay (cloie to a iinall one), to the eaitward of which Icould, at a diitance, fee what I took for the main land of Mergui, Friday Irth. Saw to-day 2 prows under fail, to the eaitward of us; they iteered NE, being about 6 miles diitant. I gave the name of Olive ITand to that near wh;ch we lay. It;s hardly a mile round, with choice of timber trees, hasfrelh waier and afrireSoil, upon itrata of marble and black flate, clofe to 4 fathoms imooohhwater: we planted here ieveral pertchoneJ, from Bengal; alii; ngoJtones; and named it from thefru;t we found there, both green and black, being the true olive; the long ifland I called Sli- van's IJlan'd. Iphi Tried with the ride to get to the we/tzaud, but was obliged to re turI1, as the lilies are only felt clofe to the land. It Aoms here full and change about I o'clock, and the ipring tides rife about: io feet perpendicular. The latitude of Olive and is rI" to' N. Near Olive IJZlnd is aSmnil jaand, which Icall Rat Iat2d; there is a nar- rowirait bettsreen then;, with 4 fathoms water. W by N of Olive Jland, half a league, is Button IJ?and, ib called from its kape; and further to the WNV is I;eo-Hill Iand, about the me diitance as this lait mentioned; near it is the rernarl;able rock like a prozer underSail already ipoken of. South from Ol-ve Iann about 3 miles, is a iinallJhallow bay, where we found an old canoe, and ieveral other marks of people that had been there, plenty of zilnber, itore S of Page 6 I783· July. of bJmboos, and gosj zcnter; to to fix rounJ n·cih;, itreaks, fore white and blue. to 6 Took in marble hllaft, pebbles from gcnerallywhite, ibme white with red SecinE: an extcr:rve coit towar-cls the SSIS, and hoyiig to make clifcovcries of SI-catel- impol·tance than I at firit expeted that way, as the tides rcre regular, running along ihore about 3' per hour, on the ipl-ings, and delyail-ing of Setting to the weitffard, where I was certain of a foul wind, and no tide, unlers I kept on the weather Tide of the Gi-sat IJlrmn, a thin impoiri lc; for thefe rearons J re- iolveci to go within, where there was a weather ihore, anchoring ground, reg'Zllnr tider, and a ;ne catlncl. But, before I proceed, I muit refer the reader back to certain ·i·;c·res of lann already taken, which, as the elevation of a houik ought to correiond with the plan, theie views will, I hope, be found to col·repond with the map. I,etters B and C give tn·o views of the Prepats Snnnrls, the firit land I made; letter A is a view of the Cocos, iouth of the Preparis, taken whilit on another volrnSe; this time Idid not ee them, flling to Iccward. No. I gives Clara /Jlnnd like the common DireEtoiy), Come rocky lts near it, and Come oiher Inannr that lay ESE of it. No. z is Szclivan's IJlrmd, iEen from between Clnra and ir, from 25 fathoms, Sand and 7/2Ud; With another view of Clara, mal-ked alfo No. 2; and here I muit obikrve, that in thePe views, when there are two ol- tl.ce numbered alike, it iignifies that they were ieen at the Came time, or from the me ipot. No. 3 is n;arconnnm, havings all the ap- Fearance of an old volcano. No. 4 ihews Rat 171nn, FTzvo-Ill IJTcmd, Bution Iand, and Ol;ve 4lnnd, from cloi`e to one of the Dol- phin Ianns; alo what I call the Cap, being like a jnckv's cap a good \n·ay off, but which is not in the m, its true diitance beinl; unknown. No. 5 fhelvs the nolphtn IJanEs, from near to BreaXer I7nnd. At the Came time a remarkabk SadLe on Sulivan's IrmJ bears SWi ; nccording:)r, it is alo numbered 5. h'o. G Page 7 I783· July I6th. (7) No. 6 flnews the jEaP Foreland, and the land far to the ibuth ward of it, alio ibme Smalt flands; and No. 8 the islne foreland, with ieveral other klnds, ipecified in the View to the northward of it. No. 7, rather irregularly jaced, being taken when I attempted to go out, but returned on the I3th, as has been iaid, ihews part of Olive and, the Burron, and ZTieo-Hill IJZand. I nowgo back to Olive and, neay·which, in No. g (Jockey Crap being ihut out of the View behind the N point of the ifland), another high Tand: like Clara in height, appears bearing NE by E:E, whilit the main is iken far off. No. Io fhews the enrranee of a harbour, which I call -Mat·ble Har- bour, and the ifland that forms`it Marble IJZnnd, from the quantity of that itone I found there. All along, from Clara hitherto, the navigation muit be i8fe, eipecially in the SW monoon; during the NE moni`oon, the wea- ther muft be fine, coniecluenely the navigation both i8fe and agree- able. The large land Suliuan keeps off the SW blaits; and, as I have igid, it is often fair without hot iun-fhine, which makes it pleaCant; and it i`eerns to be a fine climate, and favourable to veSe- tation. In the Yiezet, No. Io, the land bearing SE by E mull be the main land, being the fame diitant land that is i`een in No. g; ieve- ral(ow Sandr alio appear in No. Io, to which I give the name of GardPn Iands, having found ·wildplantains and otherfruitr upon them; they are reprefented in hTo. 6. Before I got thus far,we paffed within Hnf-Moon-Shoal; it is covered at high water; here is depth for any ihip within it; n·e alCo paired the Eaj7 Foreland. See Yp NO. 5 and 6. On the I6th we were offlclrble Harbour, in ro fathoms, mud= here we anchored, and fent the boat to iurvey it; but bad weather D coming Page 8 r?83. d s coming oa, ihe oon returned, having done but little; however Qe found aSit of /bnd run off from the point I call Stony Point, with e fathoms water on it, and 4 fathoms within it, murdS ground On the I7th it blew very freih, with heavy rain; the water be·- ing fmooth, we rode fall with half a cable in 6 fathoms, near the ihore, the EaP Folreland bearing NW by N. On the Ig;h ve paired Flat Bay, where rhereis a fathoms wai ter, at near a mile from the ihore. JU1 rgth. On the rgth, pafled tEieSoulh etremy of Sulivnn's TSZenaj lying · in about Io" PpSI N latitude, which makes it 30 miles in length, from N to S. I am pretty certain it is not above 20 in breadth. Its JGuth· extreme I call the South Fol·eland, where there is a narro·io, but eemingly bold,/tra, that ieparates it from Eles Iand;. I call it heler's Strair : thl-ee Zofs, like buftons, lie in the fair zoay; ibme lnnds, from 6 to Io miles round, apyear to the weitward through: this Jrair. E;/es J7dnH is 3 or e miles in length from north to iouth, but narrow from eai to well; it bounds Yhe(er's Srraii to theSoutbword: to the buthward of it, is d;ocr'l2a9ld, round in ihape, and a or 3 miles in compais; then appearfour los, in the pagage between it and Steep SZand, with bold channels;, here the JPood iets from the weitward pretty itron On the 22d tve paikd by Stable's Stralr, leaving it on the right band, where the Iwaclinall but brgh jJlands, called the Sugar Laaj and Saucer, are remarkable; alfo Wminer Hnll, near Steep I/land, See theYieuts No. Ilr, rz, and I3· I" NO· I2 a arge fland appears at a diitance; I call it Lord LPughborough's IZand. 23d· On the 23d we wa·e abreait of MacpherSon's SJrait, through which Lord Loughboroilgh's jZmd again aFpears, betvcn James's Jland on one hand, and Banks's Iand on the other. In this Vien; No. Iq, the Canner, at the north end of James's IJland (probably SuSannah), is remarkable, with fome dangeuous(aaktng rocks near it, above zearer. I had Page 9 783· (9) I had forgot to iay, that atreait of5pep IJRo: to the eait\t·ard, ape bme overfallr ; and I wifh to obikrve that large ihips navigating here, at leait until this wide itrait is better known, ihould have their boats out. I do not pretend to have iirveyed but zetihereSound- ingr are marked; whilit the ihip is at anchor, the boats can all be ufefully and pleai`any employed in hauling the feine, wooding, c. We come now to James's Ild(SuSannah), about the height of Clara, and tce as large: eait, of theSouthparl are i-me vet-Salls; a league off, within a mile of it, is ahoal ofJbnd and rocks, covered a hgh warer ; there may be other dangrs. julp i4th. On the LdFth) after heavy ·iqualls of rain, had a light breeze from the eaitvard, with which I itood towards an 7and to the ibuthvtrdj which Iica-ll F;IZand·; anchored near a little Bultok :a#d, that lies doieto its eaftern point, in 6 fathomswater. Saw a ckal of Jea weede doCe to us in 2 fathoms water, fprouting from looSecones; we therefore weighed and flood round this burton rock, leaving it on the left hand, and anchored abreat of Flat Iand in g fathoms, md: fee Veut;No. Ik The Bonnet ranL neat- which we lay, of which there are_fiuc, are remarkable: the ride iets itrong between them, through Aldr- Sy's Slrait ; the flood from the ieitward, the ebb to the iouthward. Here, between the 3d and 4th Bonnets, which lie cleie toget-her,:e found abundance of large clrwpl (Scalloped) oypers, about; the fie of a man'shnd-,-iome with redowi, at low water;i:ipring iiles; and iinajl ones at all times. .OSlfill-and- cank is·-7 auarer here at It o'clock, the ri2 rirng about I;I feet perpendicular. We lay here until the Ift ofAugnit, having freih gales from the SW, but little rain. We could lee,what I took to be, DommelaL mentioned in the Djretor)T, bearing NE. Flat aPld exends only fromE to W about one mile andhalf We lent the boat on dhore frequently, and·plarited peach and mango D z Ones, Page 10 1783, ro pnes, and otherSeeds. We alib croired it, and found variousf;-u;is, the Si. Helenayanr, called by the Malays clody, a kind of red berry agrce- able to eat, wild p/antain, bamboos, rarrans, and tall timber trees, gront- ing in abundance; here is alCo goodSreSn water, iiruing from a rocky emr'nence, about the middle of the north coaft of the 7and, near the rockp button already mentioned: fee Vieze, No. Ig. The foil is vari- ous, black mould and clay, mixed with ignd: altogether I take it to be very healthy: good water, no itvamps, and well ventilated at all times. Was a ih;p in diftrers to run behind this archipelrrgo, where on every ifland mafts`may be cut, I would recommend this i/land, ta- fend their fick upon; the oyiters at the· Bonnet IattaS are in great plenty, and plenty of filh to be caught by hook or ieine. We alib went upon JamesS_SZand (SuSannah), where are remarkable large trees: there we Caiv many prints of the feet of IPtildhogs or- deer. guly igth. On the 2gth, we could perceive thehoa( already mentioned, to! the ibuthward of where we la dry for the extent of halt: a mile,. I callit Bo·roen's Shoal: from Mr. Bae)en, my fecond officeq who firit diicovered it. auguit rff. On Saturday, the tit Auguit, we weighed with the ebb tide, and worked between Flat 7nd and Saidle IRmPd: i`aw the large Ian6. St. Manheze far off, bearing fouth. A little to the SW of Sbogg- Rock, which lies SE of Flat IJaPld' a kort mile, in working, we iuddenly fell from Io to 6 fathoms, in ac7rong race of a ride, with breakers: immediately tacked, worked on, and paffed the ne-pirs,. the Naked Hump, and the NeedFes. See Yiews, No. 15 and . At palt 5, being about z miles well of Cat IJnd, tlieika openi to the weitward, we had a moit i`evere iquall from that quarter, which obliged us to run under a fore-fail clued up, behind a little button jlot, which I call the Kitten, cloe to Cat Iand; and, juit be- fore dark, anchored with great iatisfation behind Cat Indin 2a fathoms, Page 11 r783· Ir ) fathoms, the lea breaking over the Needle RockJ with great violence: our helter was but indifferent. AuguR ad. Next day, with the tide ofebb letting iouthward, we worked up towards Pine-free IJIand. At 7 in the evening anchored in IS fathoms, mud; weighed int the morning. 3d3 At day-light worked up, and anchored in 13 fathoms, one mile-and a half from the land, its main body bearing S·SW: Eent the boat on fhore; law on the ·i8nd the printof the, claw- foot. of an. animal pretty large.. This and is lower than Flat IJnd. NW of it; and near it, is a: dangErouzJI3ohl: off the weit end of it, and, I believe, joining to;the iaid dringerousJhoal, is a reef of rocks, on which are I2eo largconcr,. viiibleat a good- diitance ; I call them the ru centine/s. C1 to the; SW part of this nd, is a rocky· button ; the eait end of the Fnd-L bold: -to the eaitward and northward extends aJie brole,n.Sindy beach ; but its well end is very dangerous. I call it Pine-tree I/land, on account; of the number of trees like pine-trees that grow there;, the Malays call them caEu ·arco: they grow generally at the. mouths- of barred rivers, in Malay countries, From this lnd we iaw many largt andSmill:- the Iit jindr were Su/iuaff's and Jamer'z, which we had left to the NNW, St. Marreie's to the SSW, the vifiting of which we had in expeAa- tion; we alio igw manySmall, the Five IattdJ to the SE, the SE Hump and the NW Hump, and Fo S8ddle 421nd, which form the ibutern boundary of AlderS'r Strait, in one with James's Iaffd to - the WNW, I;ldt Iand, Cat IJZand, and Saddle Irmd to the northi ward, CannSZer and I;crret Iors to the eait and north-eait, and the main land beyond;: to the W`by N Saddle-Hill Ianca, and to the SW and SSWSeueral l?ndr in a line with St. Marhew. A iivell fet in from the SW, where we had paired; but, where we were, that iwell 8 Wa8-: Page 12 1783· z was broke off by thecl,dal and reef already mentioned, that lie off the well part of Pine-free Ind. ARSUI th. With the wind at SSVV, on Tuefday 4th Auguit, we ftood, the tide favouring us, to the SE; paired within a mile of the norrtnop of the Fizae Jlands ; had regular ioundings from '6 to g fathoms. At 6 PM anchored in fight of the beacJ of the main land, in 8 fathoms, mud, fix miles from iore, PhCltrpp I/Zd bepring The/othrm Extrese of Sc. nbnv All night had the wind'at SSW. WNCVZ-N, SSW. At 5 AM weighed, but gained no ground: anchored again in Io fathoms, mud, 8 miles fioin the main land,.and from the northmoJt of the Five IJlazprJj z miles, -k bearing V;by S, latitude Io" 13' N. ILb. tbOn the'5th, the wind came fmrll the weftward, and the weather reatened. Veered away a whole cable, and rode pretty eay all ·aiSht. At 7 in ·the morning tvei$hed· and -bore aay for our former it-. ;-t;on behind Flat IJZand, ·returning without Saddle Jland, where we found regular mud foundings. 6a On the 6th, behind jFlat rand, it blew very freik .;At 2 PM a prow, in appearance an Atc-heen prow, having z inaits, with.8 or to men on bdard. came in between Flat Zmd and -the BonnelE; ieeing us, they iuddenly flood to the northward, and anchored beyond Bos Shoal, on the coaJt of Jamcs and, in an indifferent berth. I iipeB they were afraid of us; elik, in iici bad weather as it then was, they would not furely have paffed ib imooth a road as behind FlatIJland. I holld have been very:glad to conver with hem,· as hithero we had met no human crea- ture, On Page 13 r?83 13 ) Auguit 7th· On the 7fh it blew very freih: veered aay: a whole cable,, a,h I Saturday the 8th, till blowing frelh from the SW, lent however the boat for a load of o)riters. I Next day lent her for water, being moderate. Atnight gw a fire on Jamez's Ind, a proof of a hu- man inhabitant. oth. On the roth, though there was a great fea tvithdut, ve he;eled' and. i-rubbed the vefCel's bottom, very full of barnacles. Itth. At 8 AM ofWedneiilay Iath of Auguit, we weighedanI worked out, within Saddle I7cltrd, and, paffed· near the Naked Hump. 13th. t nodn, the wind having fdvoured us, we were again off the eaitward of Pine-tree I7and, within a cuarter of a mile of the ihore, in It fathoms, mud: faw theJZtoal to the SW of the IJZPnd, and ran over part of it, in 4 fathoms,-h·nd; iaur alio dry, the reef of rocBsto the well of the 7an with: the t·uto Etxelz wrch: have been air ready mentioned.. : . : I:, Stood on with the wind at WSW; and temmed the Aood, 4t I PM, fallinglittle wind, we anchored.. Next day, the: I3th at:- pall I PM we paired cloiE tc,the ea· nd of the SE Hump, wherethere is on the NE,part of bat·i'll- and,a -beautifulSol ofgreon,g-aSr, cloie to a large bank of bright Eand, in which ieveral polls were ftuck, as moorings for prows, c. that had been there;. we found the ijme at Flat Iand: within mufquet: ihot of this greenSpor we had 13 fathoms, mud. Stood on, cloie to the wind, S by E and SSE, in 15 fathoms water, Soft ground,. and paffed within: one mile of the S Hump. At: 4 YM anchored in Iq fathoms mater, the RaggedHemet; anc;l`: 9 Hump in. one bearing NW: Eerceivedlmanya landr, near. the Plljtli Page 14 r?83· C xq nain Itld, bearing ESE; freJh zetafP'i dl-o amongit them, indicating rivers that way. dcolouring theSea, came from From where we lay, the Five Innds, in a line nearly, bore N:E; and a kg ringe, or rather promontory, on St. Munhe(ru, bore SSW. I now beg leave to remark--Amongt amultiplicity of i/2ands, to which, in order to ipeak with preciGoa, it is neceffary to give names, I have endeavoured, berdes naming many in remem- brance of friends whom I honour and reipet, to call others ac- cording toriXing appearances and figures: ib the Ny,SE, and S Humps are expreirve of their reipeAive relative iituations; and all three, as appear in the Yiews, are in figure much alike. But what I mean by a hul7lp, alluding to what grows on theoulders of Sicrat oxcn, may only properly be called i-, when the I;2and is een in a certain attitude; in other attitudes the fame ifland may, with equal propriety, be called the Sclgar Loaf, the Caner, c. as the aut- Ilite continually differs. The Ibree forementioned Humps are very iimi- lar in Gze, and ihape, and heif;ht. Cat island lookslike a eat /-iuarted, in No. 15, r;r, and r8; in No. 16 it is hid by Saddle IJland: the NakedHump, in No. 15, 16 and 17, where it appears tice, has not a tree upon it ; iome of the Bonnets appear in No. 11, far off; they all appear in No. Ig, being five in nudmber; North ·t·J Hump, and Shaggy Rock (this lait I have great reaCon to remember), appear in No. 16; the RaggedHelmet, S Hump, and NWHump ap- pear in No. 2r, whilit the SE Hunlp is hid behind one of the Five IandJ; the Ragged Ne(mel, S Hunlp, NW Huntp, and SE Humps ap- pear in No. 23: the Five 1_ %Ids are given in three attitudes; No. 24 2I, and letter x: in No. 16, is a conjeaural plan of thpm ; they are alio ieen afar off' in No. 18 and 19; they are eemingly bold too, rugged and rocky. It is unnecelrary for me to fay that in No. 18 St. Martee's ap- pears beyond Pine Island, c. All this appears obvioufly from the Veze(s; without which, and the correiponding map, this account can be of little uEe or entertainment. One thing I am happy to reflen on: Page 15 1783· Auguit rgth. rg .) on: my endeavour to make the z,lezez correfpond with the map, has rid me of a load of dl-ntion, which is always tedious, and often ob icure; and I hope, from my firit making Clara Ijland, that the reader will be able to travel with me, with iatisfaaion and peripi- cuity, having theie tvo forementioned helps before him Being now near the coa/2 fMergtci, I obEerved that -it trends to the weitward of iouth, much more than is laid down in the maps extant concerning it. On the I4th had moderate meather; tood to the iouthward till 3 PM, then tacked and ftood towards St. Matt5e-'s. Sun-fkt anchored in rg -: fathoms,Soft ground: The RaggenHelmPt hearing . · . NtW. at 5 AM weighed, wind W by S; but the tide turning againft us, anchored in 1;8 fathoms, mud; Ragged HElmcr Inand bearing The Dolphin'z No/e The t7iE Rock, which before appeared like a Loat under Sail, bore ; N:E, at a goad-diaance; W; NW by W: here we loR an anchor. Sent the boat to aJine ba W of the Dolphin's NaSe ; I call it Flj Harbour ; it reaches a good way into the ifland, is malbwi except at the mouth, whe're are 4 fathoms water,Jbft ourtd. IStk. On the I5th; weighed and itood to the iouthward. Diicovered on the SE c]uarter of the Island St. Matthew, certain high roL·ky islands, their iides making in boldforelands(very like thoie I once law-off Efbb Harbour N of Ceram). One of the higheit I call the Cupcla Rock, from its havin like a turret n-top, when ieen in a certain atti- tude: the wind was moftly S; I did not find the tide Cet io itron= as I expemed. At 5 in the evening a C(luall coming on, -anchored in T5 fathoms,J8ft ground; nhe Cupola Rark bearing sw;s, E The Page 16 1783; The DotpAin'J N- 16 ) 6 or t "iles, being 4-or 5 niles offihon, ,See YiPIv No. 25, 26) 2fi ZS· ]iay at anchor until one in the morning, then weighed with the wind at SW by S, At 6 anchored in 18 fathotns,Soff ground; The Cpoln RocR bearing The DblpbiRS ND/C The nearer St. Mafthew we found the deeper water, hut anSoft mud,. no hard caitst not eveaSatzd; had frequent ijualls with rain in the night. SW by S, NNE. Auguit r6th. Ou the I6th, weighed with the ebbi PM, and worked- to the Eouthward of the Ctlpnla, bringing it to bear N 4 or 5 miles ditant; anchored again in 18 fathoms, mud,; At 2 AM weighed with the wind at: Si made- ikveraI' tacks, hut gained little, as a Eweil now came round the iouth end of St. Mafr hew's; anchored at'j! AM in IS farhoms,·Soft ground, the Cilpoln Rock being in one with St. Matth-pw--Cee the Yiezes, hTo. 27, 29, 31-: we were now in fight of the dst;ids Altdtize ; fee the Diretorp; they lie from 9051 tog" 40' N latitude, in a N and S direAion. A great i-a coming in from the SW with thatening weather and much rain, fearing the l'os of another anchor, as our cables in ufo were by this time pretty much worn, we weighed on the I7.th; at half an jth. hour palt noon, itood to the northward of the C2lpola Rock, ncl. hauled in cloie to St. Matrhew, which we coaited; and, juit- before dark, anchored behind bngce Is/and, in ro. fathoms, md, about. ball` a mile frotn the b;Pre The b;gb land of St. Matthnu bore ·now W of us, being cIofe un- cierlTt:· dark thick clouds gathexing upon it, about midnight they Broke upon us, with a.very heavy ·iquall, which made the veffel. drive a good way out of the bay ; nothing but the ieverity of the wind made us drive, as the water was perfeAly imooth : weighed in. -the morning of the 8th, and anchored again in the bay, in 12 fa- thorns, Page 17 r7 h783· AuguR 18th. thoms, muddy ground; iknt the boat for ·warPr to sport of caScadc, bearing h'W of where we lay, near which, on aSpot of levelgrarcnd further north, the Laicars found iome freih dung of elepbanrs, and ·trought it on board; but we ikw none, nor any other animal; but faw the prints of the feet of bogs or deer. In this bay, io near the h-keJZ land of St. Matrhez, we had almoit: continual rain; ibm-etimes ihowets, ii, thick that at a diitance they tooked like iheets of water, came down, and fell near us; iometimes ere drove pait; and now and then fell upon us in very heavy rain, for 3 or 4 minutes; but no alternate hot iiinihine, as in iome parts of the Weit-Indies, which would have been very dii- agreeable, the fun feldom appearing. Here we took in- ibmeone ballaJ2; and on St. 2i3tthczet picked up a parcel of dammet·,· a fort of reiin with which in India fhips bottoms are generally payed, This island, which I call %nue irlanA from its figure, may be al;out r mile in length; its -north coaft and eaCt point are bold; any inips may lie cloCe within iti and in the SW monfoon might heave dotvn, it is ib iinoouB-; by heaping up lacrr rocs,· to make it dry at higb water, at the edge of deep wafer; the aj it forms I call Macarf- ny'r Bay; it is, like moit of the iJ(adr hereabout, almolt entirely covered with rrees; the e;tit point is partly clear, being covered over· with trees for a very little way, arld may be approachdd withiri piitol-ihot lee Y;ezet, o. 26and 3t· 0" rhe well extremity tle- wood is thin,.and the ground gently rifing; here is aJZri a muf quet ihot acros, pairable by boats only, th2·n5annel rocky ; on the ii,rings the tide rii'es about ro feet, running tliree and four knots palt the eali point of the ifland; the height of the B-heJ land on St. Mnrlhew's hereabouts may be about Iaoo yards, soth. Satilthe zath we had not ail opatnnip to get oilr fails driede On that day t B i, the morning we weighed, and bore away for the Do(phiffSr cirq intending to go into FF Hnibour near It, of nhich mention has been rriadt, until the F·eather broke uF, E: a On Page 18 1783. Angnit tsd Is X On the 22d unexpeAedly we had fine clear weather, wind ES, Stood 5, At7 AM The Dblphin'j No/i bore N iiyVV, Before noon the wi!ld· came to the SSW; but, the weather being very clear and fine, gave up thoights of ahnrbr, and flood to- Tards the main, to windward of. Iro-Saddlp Island As.·I approached zgn, th main, the wind Game more favour·abl·e; and about 5· afternoon, anc;hored betweenthe i`aid w-Sclllde Islrmd and thnt.next Couth,oE it, which Lcall Delisi'e'J.lrland, in 7. fathomslSdndy groun4;; The extremes of Innd in figh4xatirig from N:E to SW 2.6. . TheiiS i·roo irl;;nd;;j jiit- mentiined, fdi;med`h`e bpcnriig of ikem· ingly: a very Jine barbour with many icltnds ; but at its entance I found. Eome ovrall;, of z ani-j:fth'oms ata caiPj bwt·nbt· roc5 gronnd,. See Y;ezerl, No, 36 an6'37 P63n wiere we lay he·;Dlphin's No/e bore- hrmxxl Iv· L*l*·Zllt_· And the Cuk Roc) ,. WN. At blnext: mbrnri weigried witi a·ligEit breeze at SSW, an: ·Rood an with the ebb tide; about 8 unexpeEtedly it catne*to blow rth. frpm·the SVi-vith. rainy` Equals: bore away·for the- Dolpin'z N ,-. and at 4 PMof the i4th anchored.in 3 fathoms, muc in Fj4 Hor-- Baut· The WLir RdcR bearing E by Nbout .mile, . Returning frdm clilc's rJnd thi$ Iwayi·I regretttd I bad not' yefterday itood behind'that islat-whert anuredly there wHs ihel- ter.f it was not now prudent to go back with dirkatening weather,, tvhiit r knew where I could be perfetly· (kcurei in a J5artbrct· better knowni · The delire of virtting the unknown js·oftn plery itrong and I thought it now timeloit toreturn where I had been before= yet to my being baulked`this time,,I owe-the fortunate diEcovery of one of ie finen harb4urr in the. lerorld, which before I had over- looked, Page 19 3'f817; · T 39 loked, pafiing:this way ; for' I tdok that puS.ofk. Mitlcw which forms the darbour for aparatE irland. - AuyR zyth. OI1 the 25th Auguft; PPEliEit`on'board of the veirel-tiey were va- rioGfly employed in meirdEn_e rigging, fails, c. I wenrin the boat into WaJtingsTj Harbbur, where I found reguloroundr'n-s, oft groutla! fiom 5 to.'" fathoms. If is about 4 miles in length and 3 in bredth; is fheltered·by St. Motbnu's Iscanp, hat incloies it for 3 quarters of the compafs; andveral j/and5 perfktly fhut it up on the fourth'quarter, the-'NE; from all winds. Tht flood fets from the-7peittarct round Bengaf-%inf; and the bay·being fult, much of the contents fkt, eaft, on the ebb, j'etteen HaJZrirgs's Island and the Wire Rock; then NN asr mared in the chart; whilft a courltcr tide' iets regular, the Aoot to the n9rthntard, and the eb"b' uO the iouthward, -n'eftt the iflaild;north of St. Marheze II;ere the ipring tides lift 11 foot perpendicular; they are·not vibient, running onl 3 and 3; knots; and .;t is hih·water atlfll and Ich8nge at about-2. olockL , From on ioard-tie vefl- in FEjfb gajr,- t·-at- niit beaid the noife oflfon;e large anima on Stl Mauheut: it was a hoarie roar, at a great diitance;in the woods; thk iai`cars aid it was a tig·ere Aboclt-a mile from the thire Rock, SW, within FF Harbour, there is a_JEr·-rock, dry at'beh; wafer, with Snipes and'other aquatic birdr frequenting it; it has 3 fathoms, - loft ground, cloie to it. I-Iere a ihip with iafety might heave down, better ;han t ngtre IsloPd: before inted at; the. hip's lumbe:being pi'c ro Iwer th-re- is room.enou%h.. pth. We ·left· F Hrzrbaar on the 27th: at-·njg'rrt,. h`avingeHlpliyedd rhe·· 26th in,fifhing. With a good ieine, we. could.have caught great. quantities in the upper fhalloaP creeks', butwe'tvere badly provided. in.that article t finding the tide, when the Dg]plin'i NoSe bore SW by Si fet NNE, we' anchored in rg fathoms, md; it continued running Po the IVNE many hours:. weighing anchor, and running towards·. BarzoPIIS L(anlI found.an oppoiite;tide iet,Eouth. HavingIfitctr: Page 20 783· as r Bt·ze91Ss Island, we worke cloik to HorSc-/boc IsaPd, where in the lirrte bay there is good zecTrer. Aftenvards, working to the fouthward (Eor the NNE almoit perpetual ftPeam, of which at night I was not iufticientlp aware, had made us loe ground), we went over ayFoal`of rora/ rockJ, on which we had only 2 fathoms. It lies off the SE part oSWaingf'E Islazd;- and near it, cloi without it, had 5 fzthoms,bf4 then 6, 7, 8 and Io fathoms, mud; ail is clear to the E and SE- o the iiid Jhoa except She Wdite RocB, which is Lven feet high at leaft, even at high water, and hold within pifto-bot. Thel4ao near EiaS- liffgs's_ IE/anal, coralrckJ, I ca\U Bro2an`fhoa fraa MF. FFancis Brontn, my firt officer, who Caw it· firit; it is BatSmall, though danr gerour: there may be otheragagcJ into this 1Sdour, but I acknnv- ledge I have'not examined them: one thing may be dependec on; there is ancbor;ir;yl; $ronade though deep, qp to. Sofathoms, without . Matthez: this I fdnnd in aformet: voyage, and it agrees with what I have heard. . This:circumitance of anchoring ground witl5- out, makes the approaching this arcpelago the iafer. AoguR t8th. On the 28th, had the wind from SE3 wsrked to the ibuthwar l, along the con/i of SI. Mert5ezv. iSth. On the zgth, the windrame again to the SS1, hut theweather was moderate. At 6 in the evening anchored in Ig fathoms, mud; The DoEpbir'J NoJr beding nod Pbaguc Vkurd iN ws. -Ont8e 30tht had; fine weather, with the wind at S:by7Y; 9por8edlto Niridwar with the·etbb tide. At pafI bPhd; the flood c6ning·in fram· ths· iihtuard, an- EhorecE in EBfs4hOMS) )IIIYdi eOllK rJland bearing The Luplla Rrk bearing· . q) NbjtW W dilbi q Irmicb. At Page 21 ( zI ) A't r ·in tlji'e morning, weighed witEi the tide of ebb, having light airs from the SSW. At;pait anctrlaed in iQ fathoms, xnurs; The Cuo R·rhbtaring and The CocRPeo REI aridg Weighed again at 14 and at rwon= LlriF'r Hoton bore The Cocls·ro8 Rrr NW, · W or 8 mtt. ENE w bl'N, havmg then i I thoms, UntiIuniet of the 3f' Of AdgtiR, we- had a moderate brini: Allgun QIR. from the weltward: the l)olphin'r Nae from our deck was then juh out of·iight, ·bea'riEg N:E, and Rlxrd/t indC tibntblask dP tie" Rbiffzs, PclizWSf dkih r) ftthOIIt3/4r/ and nrdk Ilyiiy5 up SVV, wind JWI . At·8 PM,ad light airs and calms, with dark clouds gatherin% in the Ntiquarter; anchored in 13 fathomsl/hnd, the tidilbeing, againit us,. r-783· Set. rft, · Ct 3 ia the mornitig; with a fr?eih-.hreeze frorn:the wemoard, and ibme-rain, weighed and.itood to theouthmard into 11 fa-: thoms, mud andSund;.we then tacked and itood to the weit- ward;and at si finding the- tide done, anchored in Iqfathomg and; ;: TheCrpok R bariag .; The PRj 011 ddCXOLlkf 4PII#E fine moderate weather, wind SW, N by E:4 SP;cQickt-ti ILILb 6t i At noon of the Jft, weighed with the \dr at -SSW and-itbod to the eflwartl into to farhams, jmo5 about 5 or 6 miles fian the fhore, E. f gs lay agrup offwrijsl-AIPdz: htw: of them, is-crt bi-b, I all: the Ibrcr-Sugt--iosYtr; At iuniet the wind enabled us to lie P S: ami SSWI SiooJ Page 22 "I7s3· 22 ) Stood on tillS; then finding the tide ikt NE, anchored in 8 fa- thoms, Sand. In the morning there appeared a langpleaJ2lnl island, with no hills, but gentle rtigs; I call it Keb/e's Irland; its extremes bore from S by E to E; to the northcvard of it is a hummock island, with a white rock disjunA fi-om it a ihort mile: Cce ew, No. 4", where, to the left, two of the Sugar Leaves already mentioned ap- pear pretty cloi together. At the extreme of the Yiew Ne. 40 appears a djant remrtrkable penfi; the Came Sugar Loaver appear in No. 38, where poifibly n·hat I call the Shouldr in No. 38 is the diAant renzarkablepenk in No. L(y). There is a great refemblance between the 17lr/iJite Rock in No. 40, Yhen iEen at a diitance, and rhar which lies at the tnozlih of FiJ;4 at;bour : fee Yi'ezets, No. 26 and 33. To the eaitward of Hy's Island, near which the hire Rock lies, there is a deep bcIy, exteniiing for 8 or Io miles by computation. Sept. Zd. Kept n·orking to the fouthward, with moderate weather, taking advantage of the tide. At iunie of Wedneifay the zd September we were in g fathoms,c/and; The extremes of KcEle's Iand bearin,p S. Alf·xanner I7irnn '1 furpe8 that what I lay down as one island with thax name, ha- vinsr a penked bill on it, is a .group of 3 or 4 iflands : if ib, tl-lere muit certainly be good reads for ·hipping between them; and doubtlei- ·here all round the ground is Co good, it cannot be expeffed, there, to be bad. At f pnit 7 anchored in 7 fathoms,Sand. At z in the mol·ning weighed and worked to the fouthwald, with the ebb tide; and at 8 came to anchor in Io fathoms; The Peak on Alexander'l land bearing At anchor we could juft iee Sa3er r:lnnn. WbyN, A CPirt of wind coming fI-om the Ni, a Io AM n·e;ghed; but in ;- an hour came to anchor again, in the lame depth, Io fa- thoms, Sand. Could ice land to the iouthwanl, yhich I take to be J3czlnfi CeJvlon, called by the natives cM Sliln. On Page 23 I783· Sept. 3d. 23 On Thurfday, 3d September, had variable winds from SW to WNW, with fome rain; weighed and lay up to the Couthward, iometimes SSW. At iunikt The i/ind I took to be one of the Sajyrr (a hump by itfelf) bore WNW. At 8 we anchored in Io fathoms, Sand; it was pretty moderate all night, with a iiveU from the WSW. At 3 in the morning weighed, with the wind at weft, flood NNW, with the ebb tide under our lee; the wind then heading us, as we wilhed, tacked and itood SW and SSW, had freih i`qualls, at times, with rain. At 8 Akl, faw apot of breakers, extending about I a mile; they lie diitant from the main about 3 or 4 miles, and were from the veiCel 2 miles. This bank oftlknd or rocks (we could not diitinguiih, on which the iea broke very high) lay in a. NNE and SSW di- retion, about I mile in length, bearing from the Hump already mentioned as being one of the Sayers, ENE. The entrance of a bay on the main bore from th;sJhoal E by S, at the mouth of 2415ich is a perpendiczrlar rock, very remarkable; on the north Tde of the entrance of this bay, the trees are as even asa clapcd hedge, like the lands on Sumatra, near Lunpara, and on the fouth entrance they are gently rifing. See Yieze No gr, I take this bay to be near that part of the coa, called Banigcr in the Direory. Hence we could fee an Island, that is alio laid down'in the Diretory, about q, leagues weft of the north part of Junk Ceylon ; it bore 8 by E a good way off. 4th· At i;nfet, Friday the 4th, the Hump already mentioned, being next ibuth of Alexander's Island, bore NW by W, from 22 fathoms, Sand and mud; lay up W and WNW, had much rain in the night; F the Page 24 1783· Sptember 5th· 24 the wind ihiftjng to W by N and WNW about I in the morning, with i-efl iclualls and a great Eea, kept under couriks with the fore- top fail iometimes iet; towards morning the wind itill favoured us, and I iTpeEt a current al-o; for, at day-light I Iriw, with great ia- t-isfac-ion, the lnnd mentioned, as lying off the north parr of Junk Cey(on, bearing E, and the extremes of Jzllak CEln from SSE;E to NE by N, having then 32 fathomsind and mud; the ZiZnnds of Sayer out of fight. On the 5th, had hard ijualls from the W and WNW, with t?lhich we weathered Pulo RajaB, and bol-e away for dedT2 ; found Pulo Rajah bear from Puio Boulan NW: in the D;retoyy it lies N by'tV;W ; had a itrong current in our favour, ietting SSE, and a itiff%ale at hTW by W, from the iouth part of Junk Ceylon to edn. See Plate RY. AccovNT OF UEDA, AND TE-IE ISLAND PULO PINANG, CALLED YlllhSCE or 'IlrALISS's ISLAND.--KING of PE RA. UEDA lies in 6" Io' latitude, on the eait iide of the, Bav of Ben- gnl, at the mouth of a river that will admit of a veirel of It or T4 feet water, on the ii,rings, over the bar, wh'ich is g,-aveland mun. The government is monarchical, under a Malay Mahomedan prince, who, like many other Malay princes, engroifes almoit the whole foreign trade of the port, excepting that of an annual Chi- nere junk, which pays n certninSm only as duty, and then has leave to trade freely iith the inhabitants. This junk imports immcni`e qu"ntitics of coarfe China-ware, thin iron pans, and many other articles from that country, and exports biclJe ne mer, called ivallov, ihark's fins, edible birds neits, rattans, tin, rice, dammer, tol·toiie- ihell, deers ins and iinews, bullocks and buffaloes hides and horns, jerked beef, and many other coarie articles. The town contains about 3 or 400 houfes, inhabited by Chineie, Telingas, and Malays. The Page 25 25 The king has given to the Engliih Pulo Pinang (eerk-n2ct Iand called Prince f Yales's Iand, about 25 miles round, and thirty miles iouth of his own port, where there is a fine harboultt which ceon I believe he now heartily repents;: and I doubt not but he invited the ]tllano· pirates, of the I7and Mindano, who lately attacked the Cetement. Of the Illanos a particular account is given in my Voyage to Neztl Guinea, The king's merchant and miniiter, in I783 was- named J-emmal, a keenChuli. At ueda there is great plenty of rice, buocks, buffaloes, and. poultry; but not iuch abundance of fruit and vegetables as at Atn5een, of which place more will be faid hereafter, eda is a A'at country, favourable for the cultivation of rice; a: hill, north of the town and in-land, called the Elehanf, favours the navigator's approach;- atfo the iinali iflands called Peers, 20 miles meit of the bar, covered with trees, and goad regular mud foundings a great way off, even by night, indicate the diitance to the mariner. Plllo Pnang has plains and gently-rirng hills, with a good foil, and was formerly'inhabited, as we may judge by the names of places Eaid to exiit in thofe days; but of which no veftige now remains,l except perhaps iome fruit trees, Bafoofringey, Tel(u baang, Szngy pinnng, fel(z Kumbock, ell be lappas, and SILngy karzcang. The ifland produces tin, dammer, rattans, poon-malls, various kinds of tim- ber fit for ihip-building, and the tree that gives an oil called Karuang, good for many uies, Our ettlement" there is governed by Captain Light, a very worthy gentleman, much beloved by the Malays; and I dare iBy it will ibon be a place of great coniequence and refort, as it con- tains at preient many thouiand inhabitants; Chinefe from ucda and MQlaccc Telingas, Moors, and Malays, " I have learnt from Captain Anderfon of the Honourable- Company's ihip Admiral Hughes, that the climate of_Pulo jpinang is found to be exceedihgly cool and favourable to European vegetables, and. that the iettlement thrives: he was-there in r790·· A good bullock may be had for 8 or to dollars, Ab;neaiff Page 26 26 Abi·eait of the north part of Pinang, called Fkrt Potitt, is the river Pry, that goes about 20 miles through a Aat country, with a very winding courfe, of 6 reaches or links, very like the river Forth in Scotland from Stirling to Alloa ; I once rowed up it in 1782" to where it fuddenly diminiihes to a brook. The river Pry is not fubjet to iwel as the river next north of it frequently is, called calo Mbado; which river going far into the country is often very rapid, and has a bad bar; whereas Pry Rizcer, more iheltered by the IJlond Pinang, has a mud bar, with It or 13 feet \Trater on the iFrings, is never ra- pid, and has about 3 fathoms depth up to near its diminutive iburce. Freih water may be had ieveral miles above the bar, accel-ding to the time of tide; and-it is iaid to have a crois creek communication withalo Maoda river. PIllo Pinang;lbound·s with excellent fiih, gene- rally of the flat kind; and where freih brooks run into the iea from the ifland or main land, oyiters are found in abundance, where the To do juitice to the charaaer of the late.Governor General of India, who managed our affairs in that country with iuch coniummate wiidom and policy, and who, though iurrounded with an holt of foes, airited by the French and Dutch, and encompafied with dangers from every quarter, which threatened the extirpation of the Britiih nation from bfdaJtan, yet roie iuperior to them all, and by his wonderful exertions iaved that empire-- to do juitice, I iay, to the charater of Mr. Haitings, I cannot help relating, that he ient mt in a Johanna boat, her planks iewed together, but decked and rigged as a ketch, rome- times as a ihip; being loore, me failed faft, ipreading 3 deal of canvas for her burden, which enabled me to avoid every thing I chore: and there were many privateers, both Dutch and French, in the Bayof Bengal at the time. My.orders were to get news of the enemy. Hav- ing learnt at ueda, in December 1782, that Mr. Suffrein was at Arrheen, and was not gone to Maurilius, as was thought, I concluded he would crofs over immediately to the coait of Coromondcl; and therefore Cet off and arrived at agapalnam on the zoth of December, whence Claude Ruifel, Eiq. the chief, communicated the intelligence both to the northward and foujhward; and doubtleis, the information iaved many rice veifels from falling into the enemy's hands, as the French fleet did appear off Ganjam in a few days ; and pafiing that way, I had very near been taken; but my oars and water-engine Caved me. Their mot went over the veirel ieveral times: in any other veOP1 I muit have been taken. Having got to the GangPs, I itopt many rice vefels from going out at a very critical time. It was in this veirel, called the Fly, that I rowed up Pt.Y Riaev, being chafed by a Dutch cruifer from dueda Read; but I dibppeared prefently in the river, whilit be thought, I Coppofe, I had gone through the itrait between Pub Pinan and the main land. The Fly ketch was afterwards overCet and loft at CalEutS3during a north weller, with everal other vefiEls. 2 frei Page 27 27 freh and falt waters mix: a delicate iinall oyiter alib incruts the rocky flnores of the ifland, above low-water mark, with which a .boat preiently gets a loading, like what is found in the Iblergui Ar- chipelago, at the Bonnets. The ifland is often refreked with cool breezes from Gunong Jerry) a high hill on the oppofite main land; whilit at tuPda, in the months of January and February, the lands are parched for want of rain. The Booning Ijrmds lie between Piclo Pinsmg: and ueda, and there are good mud foundings all the way. E ncnv heard of the tragical fate of Mers. Overbury and Coffan, which will be hereafter re- lated. Jemmal poke of it ieh great reiervt; Well of %ueda about 45" is B Harour, formed by fevera iflands, of which a plan is given, ;ulo of Pure Ding-ding, and the Sazabolstr, or Nsi3e Iattds, If a ihip wiihes to i-nd for wate: behind the Dutch ruined fort, ihe had better go into flnelter behind Ding- ding, than lie without beeauie, at night, it often· blows hard from· Sumatra, during the SW monfoon: leave the Fairzoy Rock on the right, and anchor behind the ifland in 7 or 8ifat-homs water, where ihe will lie fmooth ; mudSoundings all the· way. BsJo Ding-d;ng and the Pulo Sam6olag, Nine Inands Cthere being exatly that number), lie at the entrance of Pera River.. The ebb tide runs itrong, near the mouth of the· river where it narrows, ii)ecidlly after; rain;. it will admit a veifel of It or rq fekt draught of wateL, but the bar requires attention,: being i8nd. only:: there is but one; dangerous ihoab in the-- Liver, which is laid down in the plan: keep on its iouth· idc In. other repeAs,. the river above this illoal is navigable with iafety, having a continued maddy bolrom and; Jres, LII) to where the Dutch have reiettled their faAory at Zanjong Purus (Broken Point). TBe· country is flat, coniequently favour- able for the cultivation of rice, and aboundswith the aneebong tree, fit -or many uCes;.ic gives· at the head a cabbage. I carried ieveral, baTS of the feed to Bengal, but they did not grow, for what reaibn I cannot tell. Cattle and poultry are not neat io cheap here as at ucda; but oyiters are. to be· had in quantities near the riverT-. rnout, Page 28 28 mouth, and great plenty of excellent flat fjih, as at Pinang. The Dutch contrat with the king for all the tin, at Io Spaniih dollars per pecul; but much of it is iinuggled to Pulo Pinang by way of Laroof and Jalo ConSoze. Gzcnony-gantong (Hanging Hill) is remark- able, near Laroot river, on the bar of which is iaid to be 3 fathoms water. I went up in a country covered boat from I"anjong· Pzctzls, where the vefiP1 lay, to pay my reiiets to the king of Pera, who received me in a large upper-room houi`e with great itate, having about 20 guards in the room, dreifed in black iBtin garments embroidered on the breait with a golden dragon; they wore mandarin caps, and apI;eared altogether in the Chinefe ityle: iome were armed with halberts, ibme held pikes in their hands, and a few had muipuets without ba)ronets. The king made me fit on a chair before a iofa on which he fat himielf; his courtiers, about It or 14 in number, all itood. After iome little converihtion, the king aiked me if the Dutch meant to return to Pera: I aniwered that I believed they did; on which he looked grave: he then withdrew; and his brother en- tertained me with a cold collation, at which two more peri`ons fat down. I had prei`ented the king with two pieces of Eengal taffeta, and found, when I got into the boat, a large preiknt of jacks, duri- ans, cuitard apples, and other fruit. I left Pcra Riverin December r?83· Much rain fell in November. ACCOUNT Account of the Island Jan Sylan. Page 29 A C-C O U N T OF THE Is LAND JAN S Y L A N. Situation-extent-ttame-Poprcr Harbailr--Pulo Panjnrtg--Sfrait Le- beer--flerozea YTl(age-governmen-ui/lages-populalion-vir rhego- ucmor Pee-peemonr -fncirs-animals-climale-opitm;-rrade-pago- da--el(opys--money calledpoo-governor's monopoly offrade. JAVING been lent in I784· by the Bengal government, to make a.ikttlement at Rhio, by the king's invitation, I learnt in my Way thither, from a Malay prow at Pulo Dr'ng-dt;rg, where I touched for water, that the king Rajab HaaEree was flain, at the rege of 1Malncca, which place he had attacked: upon which I returned and touched at Jan Sylan. The IJlnnd 3Cbn Sylan (called 3Cunk Ceylon in our maps) is iitu- ated on the eait iide of the Bay of Bengal, and is divided from the continent by a narrow ifhmus of ignd about a mile in length, and half a mile in breadth, which iithmusis covered only at high wa- ter (the tide rifing on the Cprings about o feet), and uts up on the north part, an excellent harbour, called Popra i:- The ifland extends from the latitude of 7" 50' to 80 27' N Ist. and is about 40 miles long and 15 broad, lying in a direAion ESE and NNW, having good anchorage all round it generally on a mddv boflom. + p;,,ifel drawing to feet n·ater may get in on the ipringrs over a mud bar. 6 The Page 30 30 The name Jan Sylan is a corruption from Oojong Sylan (point or promontory of Sylrm), the iouth point projeEting a little way into the fea; and probably the name was given to it before it became an ifland at high water, and before it was disjoined from the con- tinent, as it is at prelent: the word oojong being a Malay word figni- fying point, and the inhabitants in general Ipeaking Malay, from their intercourie with thdt people, had it been conGdereii as an ifland, the word p(o, Ggnifying ifland in the fame tongue, a word of eary pronunciation, if once affixed to it, would moit probably never have left it. There are ieveral fmall iflands adjacent to it, from one to fix miles in circumference; and one beautiful ifland lies about iixteen miles eait of it, called Pulo Panjang (Long and): it is about 23 miles long, and 8 broad, of moderate height, gently floping fi·om the middle to the ika on each Gde. Psllo Panjang is divided from the main by a itrait called Gallat Leheere (Iroat Strajt), with z fa- thoms water in the ihalloweit part. ran S3lan has no high hill upon it, bur ikveral of moderate height; and, as may be expeAed from its Gze, no conGderable river; but ieveral creeks that run to the fea, generally through flat marihes of mangrove trees, from pleaCant brooks in the interior parts; they keeping purpoiely the ikirts of the ifland in a itate of nature, I iuppoie, to prevent invaiilon; and their velfels confiit only of a few prows about the ilze of Indiamen's long-boats, and imall canoes, that find their way up theik creeks, to the well-cultivated plains abounding with rice fields in the middle of the ifland. Befides the harbour of Popra above-mentioned, there is another capacious harbour on the ibuth-weit part of the ifland, as the Ila- tives informed me; but I never was in it. The place where ihips generally anchor is in a good rbad, well ieltered behind a fmall ifland now joined to the main iiland at low water, lying in ·8" Io' N lat. On the main oppoGte to this ifland is a creek that leads to the village of fl'et·ota, confiiting of about 80 houfes, on a plain, th rough Page 31 3r through tvhich runs a pleafant brook, i·;th many windings, over a gravelly bottom. After havings with much difficulty got up this narrow creek, where oars cannot be uied, on the upper part, paddles only, and perhaps againit a itrong current, one is much pleafed to reach the pleaiant rivulet above-mentioned; and here rerdes Pec-peemont, the governor, or viceroy, from the court of Siawt. This governor, when I was there in I784, had three afiiitants, or perhaps rather colleagues, as they partook of his power: their names were Pee- I'u- kerat, Pee-Siring, and Pee-Lanrrac. Each of thei- officers had about Gxty followers, a kind of retainers, who in a great meai`ure live on the community; for, receiving little pay, they opprei`s the inhabi- tants: their arms area muquet and bayonet, iivord and dagger. I have often i`een them attending their mailers at Pee-peemoffr's houie, where they all met frequently upon bufineis. The names of the towns or villages upon the ifland, are, erozea, Bankian, Bandan, Popra (where is the harbour already mentioned), Nanay, Bandpon, yang, lirtuay, Bankonian, ankran, Bandrun, Scgoo, Bringmg (this lait produces tin); alfo Kakoing, Parit, I;rllozg, and Patong (thei- four lait alio produce tin). The inhabitants of the whole ifland may be in number about r2,ooo fouls. About eight miles inland, from I'el·owa, in a NW diretiotzl nearly, Pee-peemont has a country houfe, built, as all their houes are, of timber, and covered with palm leaves, an univeri8i coveriIlg in Ma- lay countries. I travelled thither with Cayt. James Scot, who reGded then at Perozea, on iome commercial burneCs, his veirel lying in Yc·pra har-, bour, a veryienrble and intelligent gentleman, to whotn I was nluch obliged for his civilities and lervices on many oecaGons. UTe travelled on an -elephant, through a path'LFTOI.I1 like a gutter, in lome few places, where it as over a Aat rock, the path being worn by the elephants feet, and o narrov as not to be above an inch or G two Page 32 32 two wider than his hoofs: I wondered how the huge animal got along. This bad road was for a very little way through the flrirt of a wood; and about two miles from Terowa we got into the open country again, full of rice fields, and well watered, yet not iwampy. In about three hours we reached the governor's houik, which is larger and more commodious than the one at CkrawLI, and i`even miles diftant froin it. In his garden we found limes, oranges and pummel noies. ChySong, the ibn of a (2hinee with whom I lived, told me the ifland produced moft tropical roots and fruits; and I am periuaded many of our vegetables might be raiied, the climate is fo cool; very like nhat it is at'PIllo Pinag·. The governor gave us a very good dinner, but did not eat with- us. e did not ipeak Malay, but had a liaguiit who ioke Portu- guefc. Our drink was the water of young coco-nuts and iherbet. After dinner we were entertained with three muficiang who played on Cuch like itring inltruments as the Chinei`e play an at Canton. ZlavinS drank tea we took leave. They have a good many elephants, which the get from rEergui; none wild, no horfes; they have bullocks and buffalos for labour2 wild hogs and deer, a few tame goats, no iheep, domeitic dogs and cats, They have' the common poultry, but not in abundance. The climate is very agreeable; no violent heats; the rains come on gently in July, and contin until November, with frecluent inter- miirons: fineweather then iusceeds, with very cool north-eait winds at night, which muit be favourable to the cultivation of vegetables, as it is at Calcutta The vend for opium on this ifland was thirty or forty years ago very great, as this was then ;5 free port· The opium came from Bengalgeaerally in Englilh country ihips, and was, bought up by Malay and EuggeCs prows, whor after having fold a mixt cargo by retail, to the natives for till tin doing which they ftaid many months, and hauled up their prows to repair), they then exchanged their tin with the Bengal veirels for opium, which they carried q( chiefly Page 33 33 chie8y to Celebes and other Malay Iflands. The mixed cargo they brought to fell for tin was generally-a checluered cloth called BnggcSr cambays, made on the TJland Celebes, refembling lungys of Bengl, but cloier wove; Java painted cloths and painted handkerchiefs, gene- rally made from Indoitan long cloth; java gongs, brais pots, and other utenfils of brai made on that ifland; China and Java to- bacco; various porcelain; blue and white and unbleached cloth called Rangan, and white and blue called compole, brought from China by the junks that refoyt to S;am, MacalTer, Sooloo, Batavia, R5ic, and other places, Things are now much altered: the uik of opium is forbid to the natives, the importation is prohibited, and a heavy duty is laid on the exportation of tin by orders from SiLan; in coniequence,the trade of· the place has dwindled much; Indoitan piece-goods, and ibme European articles, iuch as iron, iteel, lead, cutlery, and broad-cloth, being almoit the only imports. Neither do many Bu5gefs prows come, as no opium is to be got; but Malay prows come from icda, and a few from the Sfraif of na(acca and Po Pinong, that bring · the China articles already enumerat d. `About the year I782, in return for many %hina articles they got from Slam partly over land, they returned tin, the fame way; but the projeA was given up ire I711, it not aniives-ing the expence to fend tin acrois the iithmus·. The tin miner lies under greater oppreirton of late years than fo-- nerly: he mull now carry all his ore to ·st Cfiinee imelter, who farms this privilege from government. The iinelting colts it per cent.; ·tGdes the miner for a certain weight in flabs, mull deliver a cer- tain weight of till ore, which often produces more: thus he pays a double dutfr before he gets the tih into his hands; the Iait duty is the heavieft and moit impolitic. Government takes 2gper cent, -before the tin can be exported: this gives ii, much diiratisfaaion, that the -wiih much to throw off their dependance on Slam ;.and it was ikid that,- if Pee-peenont could get ipport, he would verg· readily do it, How far his having three aflociates in government might prevent iuch an attempt, I canndt faJT : goiIib-Iy their ap G P, gomtmept Page 34 3$ pointment is with tl.iat very intention, by the depots of Sian2; who, armed with an infignificant monarch's authority, often go- vcm themielves, but always in his name. I have been told the export of tin from the ifland is about 500 tons yearly; formerly it was much more. Pulo Pinnn, our ne\s· Cet- tlement, Sets a great deal of it; enn did formerly. Here, at. erazP,tn, there is apa,non, built of timber, and covered with P"lm leaves; it is ierved by about twenty prieits, called tellopys, who li·e in iinall apartments adjoining to the pagoda, which might be about fifty feet long and thirty broad. They, with uncovered ihaved heads, wear a yellow garment, and carry a white wand in their hands about five feet long. I iav there a Bengal Laicar, a Moorman, who had deCerted from his ihip, and had been lodged and maintained many months by the charity of the teop Ch_ySong, with whom I lived, was bred from a youth at Pond;.. cherry ; he fpoke Sjamei`e, Malays, and very good French: my veIel. lay in Terozeta Road. Every morning, about 8 dclock, four rellopys drew up before the door of CySong; they fpoke not a word, but looked demurely on the ground: preiknt!y, a female iervant came out, and put about half a pound of boiled rice into each of their clean iron veirels, which they held out; another female iPNant followed, and put in- to each veifkl about two orthree ounces of broiled fiih: they then walked in filence to the next houe, one following the other, ex- peEting the fame: they wait about half a minute at a door; if nothing is given, they go in Glence to the next, \y.ithout ieeming diiappointed. Having got a certain quantity of provifion, they re- turn to their convent, They do not marry; but may leave the pagoda when they pleaie, and mix with the world. I law a young lad about 14 in the pagoda, with a ihaved head and yellow garment; two or three days after- wards, Page 35 35 wards, I la\r him in a lay habit, romping with oth'er boys at the river fide: my linguilt afked him, at my defire, why he left the pa- goda ; the boy laughed, gae no aniier, but ran off with his com- panions. Chl/ong told me they did io fometimes at SiLznz, but not often. Certain pieces of tin, ihaped like the under half of a cone or ir- gar loaf cut by a plane parallel to its baie, called poot, are uCed on the ifland as money; weighing about three pounds, with their halves and cluarters of fimilar· ihape: if attempted to be exported without paying duty, they are feizable. This encourages fmuggling. The value of tin is from It to 13 Spanifh dollars the pecu( of I331b· FUt O" board clear of duty. Whilit I was here, a Bengal ihip, Captain Lloyd, came in with . piece goods : the captain fold them to Pee-peemonr ; no doubt- partly on account of the king of Slam or his miniiters. All Malay princes are merchants; which ielfilh policy itarves their iubjeAs. It ho- ever gives diipatch to the country kips, and they pay no duty. As ioon as the goods are landed, the king's merchant fells them per- haps for an advance of 25 per cent. Ail forts of Indian coin pafs here; but they are fondeit of Spa- nifh dollars. They have not in uCe thepetis, or caih, the leait va- luable of coins, ued at Atn5een, Sooloo, Carang AO-m on Balv, and many other Malay places: theie iinall coins·ale of great iervice to the poor, as cowries are at BPnga At Atcbeen they are cut out of iheet lead, about the fze of a fixpence,-andare rudely itamped with a certain mark 3 about 600 or 650 go for a dollar. At Sooloo " and Caran Aem they are of copper, with a hole in each, ieemingly of Chine·ie manufature; and from 4 to 500 Vai`s for a dollar. The people of Jnn Sylan, though they generally underftand the Malay tongue, from their intercourie with that people (Sreater for- merly than now), ipeak the Siamefe language, and write as we do * At Soolo they have a copper coin, with a bit of filvet, very thin, fixed to it; it is called Mroo. from Page 36 5 from left to right, They write remarkably itraightt, t`hough ith- out lines. They reiemble in feature the Malays, with a good deal of the Chinei`e look; are well made, rather flender. They are allowed to marry as many women as they can maintain; but the firit wife rules the houihold, as in China : and, as in China and PeSu, no wo- man can leave the country. CySottg had but one wife. Tn moft Malay countries where I have been, Arcbeet, Salengore in the Strait of lzlacca, Peua well of Salengore, and Jueda, as I have already obCerved, the prince of the country is the chief merchant; i`ometimes the only one of coniequence. RSio,.an ifland in the Malncca Strajf, where I never was, has, I am told, the fame policy: a partial exception to this at Atchen will be hereafter mentioned. In former days, as we are informed.by Commodore Eeaulieu in his voyage in 16I9 to Archeen, publiihed by Harris, we find Archeen to be a place of greater coniideration ·than at preCent ; and before Beaulieu's time, in Io6, a PortuSuete fleet, under Martin Alphonib, landed a conrderable force, which was defeated -by the Atcheeners, the Portugueie having loll 300 men. ;We are.alib told that, in zrg, the king of ArchPen fitted out a fleet of 500 igil, of which rM, were large galleys, furniihed by his Orankayos (men of ilbitance); the whole` force being Cjqooo men: a defpsrate engagerrlent en- iued, in which the Atcheeners loll zo,ooo men. Allowing thefe accounts to be true, and Mr. MarCden, in his late juit account of the ifland Smahil, gives his authorities, the kingdom of Arcken ieems to have dwindled as much as their former enemies and rivals, the Portuguei;e, in India A%COUNT Account of Atcheen. Page 37 A: C C O V N T of rF . C M E. E NI· N7me-ctetlfiMagnifude - reveplue--· ttjanufaazlres - Elg's mcnopol3, of frade--excelllnr fruit--trade of the CSuliar-imports-kin-'J appella- tion--oicerJ ofafe-nsane;y-Jwes4tj and mcaSzcres-exporrs-indtcJic of the Chulias--Jhittg boais called Kolay-Jellore-Brtllellclng-Ban- ;n9-fce ofShe countr,-S2eel,ing ofthe rive9·--excellent AorSEs--lbeprb on the bar--alt golas--Maldivr`a boalJ--dried· bonetsa--kng's palace (Dalum)--Sura Paage--Nalao, zrerg SmllJiing· boars--SooSoe Bnrbour--Bombay i--Porrugrterte trade-country Jbs--tzeo Eng- rF seL-ls cut b at Pedi---Atceen freacev; horrid murtoffiuc · Etcropcnns--audiEce of the King in I74--preSenrs--King' s ppear- ance-reprehenJ;anfrna the mnjer--En-'j pol;rePleSs-pre/'ents re-- turncd--embzry from Bencoolen to· Acheen in I772--troub(es in the · tozen--·embary Proves aborr;ve--vljFr AtcBeen in I775-King's ilnpj--. 1F AfcSien in I784·--Ludience of t5e hing,Sultan OaJadite--his re- marfis on gun car-itgs-dtl·reion-frther intercourSe wh the Klizg-- - fond ofmu_fi--rmz created KizZ-4r o)C tL7e golden Szeord (rr?n-caio derry piddang mas)--take leave-Rjng afraid of his nobls--appearance oftfw· palace--ing's charaRer-- elepbants - moJ"ques -pries-purlhmenrs- Jiane requt of an Archeener--charaAer of the Archeenrs--no Chine/eL at Arcbeen--Mr. lMarSden'sjtl/t account ofSumara, qIHE kingdom`of Archeen, called Acbh by the natives, extends- from the north-weit promontory of the Jt22nd Sum2lfra (called; Aicben Head, a well-kaown and bold land-fall for ihips) to beyond; Batoo Bara River, on the morth iide of the ifland. On the ibuth·- weftl Page 38 '38 eit coail it eXtLIli!Y tO itlGPI 8) once Cofiefi`eJ, but 119 abandoneLi) iy the Dutch. E'ol-mer-ly it cel.tainl er;tcndect much farther on this Gde; as we find, in Ihrg, Commodoie Beaulieu got a permit from the king to load pepper at i,-oo ·i-, lying ibrr,e miles iouth of the equator. In- land, the kingdom xtends not j far as on either fide of the ifland; and terminates at Sifiel, where the LZc7/tn dominion beins. It con- tains altogether an al-ea otl about 26,oco i`qul-e miles, lying in a tri- angular naIe; and is iheltereri by a range of hills that Luns from the head or promontory to the iouth-eait, and another to the EN; the lands betwepu being very fertile, and much better in- habited than any other equal portion of the ifland. " Behind an iflarld off Baraos, called Pulo Carang (Stony Inand), there is good meltet in Io fathoms, mud; the inner end of the ifland, which mut be left on the left hand going in, bearings wdt, and the caicade on Mazular (very remarkable, about 400 feet hig]l) beai-ing SE by SS, After funiet, but before dark, many large bats go from this ifland to the main land. They return early in the morning, and fleep all day hanging to trees by their hooked \-vings. t Behind the 7icao I/landz, and behind the Priaman lauir, there is alio ihelter againa NW and W winds, for mips of any ilze. They are Imall, low, and covered with trees. $ The Garias are a well-meaning, ignorant, ftmple, people. The Malays and ArhPmers have the addrcris to perruade them that they iettle at the mouths of their rivers to defend them from invafion (from white men eTpecially) j whereas, it is to erljoy the monopoly of the camphire and benjamin, which they Bather near SinkPI RivPr, BProor, and rappnnooly. hat· Mr. Mariden rays of the Baltas being cannibals, 1 have great reaion to believe. Trading once at Si,zcll for benjamin and camphire, with Badnmallum, a reputable Mu- layman, I purrhaled from him a Batla flave, who rpoke good Malay; I named him Caio. Jn the many converiations I had with Caio about his countrymen, I beg leave to relate one fhort ftory he told me, which may be called the progrers ofcannibaliTm. Babamallum had a favnl;rite wife or concubine olen from him by a Baita, who Told her. The thief was taken, and executed according to the Batba law for ioch a crime; that is, he was tied to a itake, and cut to pieces by numberIefs Cwords. They roaited pieces of him on the fire; and Babamallum, a civilized Mahometan, put a bit of his roafced Aem into his mouth, bit it with anger, then ipit it on the ground. I dare iay CBio did not invent the above: had he raid Babamallum ate it as food, reafoned with idlt and lime juice, as did the executioners, I mould not have believed him. The Page 39 'Tile king's revenue arii`es chiefly from import and exyort dtlry, -and may be about 30001. a year. He has alio a iinall acknowledg- merit of rice from the land.in.Seneral; and has, befides, the rents of royal domains, which are but triAing. His nobles draw a revenue from their refpeAive diftriEts, of which they are feudal lords, levied -on the land and the induitry of the inhabitants. They maaufare'ffcrm catton ·of·their orvn growth a fpecies of cloth, chequered blue and white, which the better fort wear univer- fally for drawers, whilft the common people tvear carCe Madras long cloth unbleached. They alib make a ipecies of illk, very hand- ·ime and very dear, compared wlrth the flighter taffetas of Beng of which they buy large quantities from the cuntry ihips that im- port that article. They alio cait·excellent mail braEs guns, called rtacka ; ·and aFe curious ia fillagree work, both II gold and filver. Being at AclJeen in 1762, I enquired particularly of a Jew lin- guiit, named Abraham, why the oranayos (men of rank and iub- itance) were not allowed o trade freely, as they did many yenrslbe- fore. He faid the kings of 14rfcheen had always lived on very bad terms with the Oranfiayos who got rich by trade; and, to leffen their confequence, his miniiter adviied him to be ole trader himfelf; which couniel he imprudently followed, and by tha't mean"s has impoverrihed his kingdom in general, that ma2tes no figure at pre- iknt to what it did formerly. It is true, in trading witbthe prince's minilter, whom they calIShabandet· (a word they adopt from the Dutch, of, I believe, Spaniih origin), they pay no duty in or out. What then whilit the captain or iupercargo can deal only with one perion, he muit fubmit to his price. This mode, hovever, has its convenience, as already hinted at;- and, if the king's terms are too hard, tke ihir, carl go:el·ievhere. The king monopolizes the groCs iBle of all the opium, and farms theiretail i`ale of it alio, all over his dominions I much is fold at Nalaboo, of which place more ·will be iBid. )1 Iere, Page 40 O Hctej at AicKen, is a I:sofufion of all tropical f`ruits, eii,eciallyr· manguitines, rambuitines, mangoes, jacks, durians,, lances, pme-· apples, limes,-and oraages; and the worft kind of breadlfruit. Of vegetables they have bredy, a kind ofipinage; lobocks (the Spanifh radiih);ltrge purple blin?jallcs, yams both red and hite, and the 4. Uclenn yam called clod3,; and many different ijrts of beans, like what ve call French beans (kalaunnces); alib a iin·all kind of onion. The mangoes have a thin Itone, and are excellent; not- itringry, as often at Madras. The Ghulias, for ea uCe, lay in here a great Provifion of i`alted limes, of which they can buy 2 for a,aeris, or Io or lzoo for a dollar". Bullocks 12 dollars a head;, ducks, 6 for a dollar; fowls, S or Io. The Chulia Cling or ]looriih veirel's come yearly from Parto-ouo, on the coait of Coromandel, and other places, to· the numbr ofrz· or '5 fail of Inows, generally of zoo and 300 tons. They come in.- Auguit and September, and return in Februar·y, March, and April, during the fine weather; a hooriih ihip comes alTo annually fron-L Szlraf. They bring piece·goods of all kind4 chiefly long cloth, white and blue ; chintz, with dark grounds ; and a great deal of coare long; cloth unbleached 9. They ballait with falt. During their flay they lie in a iinooth road made by the iflands that lie o$ AlclSeen Head,, keeping iff the S'L'V wind and iivell. During the'N monfoon,. the iivell from that quater is inconfiderable, and the weather is fine. w. Wefl India captains of ihips might here tdBe a hint, as limes rot under the hedges in· the M"eit India iflands. The Chulias make four pr five inc·ifions long ways into the ripcl lime, and put into each a little falt; after lying 48 hours or more, they with the hand give each lime a fmart iqueeze, then lay them to dry in the fun for i`everaldays :: they expore the extraed juice alfo, tll;t all the watery particles may be exhaled. They then put up the limes in jars, pour back the juice upon them, and fill up. with more juice, or good vinegar,. often had from the coco-nut tree. The-lime th;s prierved they call Atchar. This give on board ihip, with lefs falrmeat; would Cavg many a poor Cailor's life.. t Which they call Cin very Isre paper, elephant. Gcjaw (elephant cloth), as being corlc: in r;ondonwe call Thefe Page 41 r Tbefe peoic, oten called hIalabars, becaufe they peak that 4,anguage as at vadras, have their privileges, and no doubt itretch -them to the utmoit. On their arrival they immediately build, by contram viith the natives, -houCes of baniboo, like what in Cljia at Tl'dmpo is called bnnkl; very regular, on a convenient ipot cloCe to the river, to which their large boats of 8 or Io tons burden have eaijr accefs. Theie boats being too large to hoiff in, they tow them over from Col-omnmdel. This igot is railed in and ihut at night for fear of thieves. After the uiuril prelents we made, the king's officers attend duly at the landing of goods. The bales are immediately opened; twelve in the hundred are taken -out for king's duty, and the remainder being marked with a certain mark (ch4pp) may be carr;ed where the owner p)eaies, and fold in any part of the ki-ng's dominions. The CIJzlias at Atcheen ikll at leiure, ihewing their goods to the natives n as dark a part: of their ihop as they can. I have bought at At- cheen, in 1772, Of PoSPI1, the king's merchanl; blue cloth, as cheap as it was to be had at 1LZai-aE. This is owing to the lin (elinga) peoe laying in -theiinveitment with leiire, care,- and frugality. No European, Engliih, French, or PortugueCe, can feI near ib b cheap as they. Chulia veirels ·pay alTo port duties. Talki of the king they call him ruan-kkq which compound Malay word means my malter. There are five great officers of Iate, ·who are named 1W;zha Rnja, Luxamana, Raa Oo$cz, Ooloo Bnlan and PLua RnA. Under thefe are rxteen inferior o8ieers; The go- vernmerit is monarchical and often defpotic t according to the abi- Sities of the reigning prince. The exchange of the le;ad pet;s rii`es and falls fi·om 250 to 270 for a rupee, and 600 to 650 for a Spaniih dollar, as has been faid. The king calls in thei- petis (caih i`ometimes, and ifues new ones with a great profit to himCeif. The legal intereit of money is 25. per cent. per annum. * See hlr. Mariden's account oftmail·a. 1 2 Th ev Page 42 C 4·- They have a Sold coin called mafliah, of tfie iize of our i;x- pence, itampt with Arabic charaEters: but they are not nerly equal to what they paCs for currellt-,· being very thin. The Chu- lias export nothing but Sold d·uft and dollars, of what may be- called valuables; Inetirnes they pick up a few itray rupees and fanams; but they always get filled up with what in India is calledl a S'U (bu)kp) cargo-areka (beetle nut), redwood, Sum benja- min, Sinkel,. or Barroos campkire, which if: clear and trani-arent, is nearly equal to its weight in iilver, in C15ina. I had a yecul once: iold by Mr. Cox, my agent there, or Ig50 Spanik dollars: it is alCo valuable on CoromonL being bought by Gentoos for ibme par- ticular purpofe. They alib export frczmffrc8cn, pepper, IPgar; I`ulphur, which is found on Plo C·t/a, a.conical high ifl$nd, q, or 5 leagues from the river's mouth, once a volcano, and elikr where;. Japan wood;. dammer, a kind of roiin; rattans, patch-leaf,. bangS, which is hempleaes, and when Imoked intoxicates. They alEo export many other articles, which European country captains know nothing of. On all theCe they pay an export du5ri unleis immediately bought from the king's merchant.. r\dbtwithitanding which, thei- induitrious- Chulias and, Malabars (the appellations are, L believe, bjrnonymous); buitle about amont the natives,. fyeak their language (w-h·ich is not Malay, tiough· to a man the- Atcheeners underitand Malay), give credit for their produce, and by their diligence and management make the trade auiw.er,, For 'i FTve mafliah is equal to a rnayan,. and fixteen mayan' ta a b;oncal; which weighs. I ounce, lo pennyweights, and zr grains,,troy. Five tayl, an imaginary weight, is alfo - boncal. Twenty boncal is a oatty, Ioo cattys· make an Atcheen pecul, and 3 pecuts; make a bahar; iixtY-fix cattfs make a China pecul. At Nalaboo the boncal-weighs '7·· mavan. A boncal of clean gold is worth 25 Spanim dollars, or about 58 or 60 rupees. In delivering pepper, they uie a iquare meaiure called nclly,. which contains a certain wight or number of cattys; and in delkreri·i,o beetle·nut, a certain mcaiure is uppofr;d'to contain. a laxiaa, or I,o,ooo: a chupa is about a quart; 16- chupas make a nelly.. b Lafcars often rmoke bang by itealth; it makes them drunk: country captains always. endeavo?lrto·pever,t ;r. The Dubafhes at Macirar itudy Engliih, to rave young writers the trouble of Ieanling the country ]angruage: not ii in Bcn4 J;IVp Page 43 43 Saipg theking's merchant and prime miniiter, is a C;hulia man, and all the clerks or men of bufineib about him are his countrymen. They write on palm leaves as well as paper, are very ihrewd, and fullas good accountants as the Conocoplys at Iadras, and keep their acccats in the fame way. Mai7y of theik ChuIifls live at eda, and, no doubt, by this time, at Pzllo Pinang, which is a beautiful, healthy, and fruitful ifland: I was on it many years ago, befol·e it was ikttled by the Engliih. They have at Adcbcen many f;ihing-boats, in ihape like a lare Thames wherr·y, iuppofed to be raii`ed about 20 inches: they are called Kolay, and have one malt, and a fail fhaped almoR like a ihip's top-fail, with a yard above, hung by a hallyard, about one third from the outer yard arm, and a flight round boom beio, with a fheet and one bridle only. If the wind freihens too much, they with a cl·oi`s itick like a trunnel, that pafes through theinner end of this boom, roll up the fail, iheet and all, paing the lover end of the trunnel forward, then unroll as the wind ilacks. A tack is fait to the inner yard arm. I reed not iay the fail mull be dipped in putting about, which is ealy done, whether the fail is altogether or partly rolled up. I never faw any thing io convenient in any European boat, i, Managing which if it blows they muit lower and reef; here they only roll the fail up or roll it down. See the figure. Fiih, notwithitanding they have many fiihing-hoats, is not very cheap, as the Atcheeners fcem fond of that diet. They catch e- veraE miles out at ia, with nets in thoie boats, a kind of mackerel, or inaI1 bonnetta, wei-f;hing from 2 to 3 pounds. I have ieen worms. half an inch long, alive in their flefh, on the back part, when freih caught. They go out with the land, and return -with th iea, mind r their cargoes are pre·iently bought up, They have alib at Afcheen boats with double outrif;ers and twCr mafrs; they are called bidoo in a general i`ellle, but particularly ba- Illal2gr Page 44 l/i2ll5rrS aniljejres: the ballellang is rather the broadeit. ?'he titr, a boat fo called, with 2 maitj, is tolerably broad, and has no out- risrser; thoCe boats that liave aI-e compal·ative!y narrom; yet on uch they often mount ivivel guns, and to or 30 men: they fail re- markably ait, in light winds, ali; in fi-eih Sales, if the water is inlooth; if in bad weather one outrigger fails, the other iilpports the boat. I have een jellores with only one outrigger, i`ometimes to leeward, iometimes to windvrrard; but not like the ingenious La- drone yrow dercribed in Lord Anlon's voyage, which hifts liemfor ern. In boats with one outrigger, on one tack, the outrigger to windward weighs down as in the LadI·one prow; on the other tack the outrigger buoys up the body of the boat; io in either cafe fhe is kept uprightt The country above the town is very highly cultivated, and abounds with inhabitants in many iiall villages, and fingle groups of three or· four houfks, with white mofques interiperikd. Walking that way, if after rain, is difagreeable to a European, as they have: no idea of reads: but Malays do not mind walking through mud ul, to the knee, which, however, they are careful to waih off, F-llcr they come to a houie, before they enter it. The main iti·eet in the town is raii`ed a little, and covered with i8nd and gravel; I·ut no- where elie are the itreets raiied; and even this is ibmetimcs ovey- Aowe l by the ivelling of the river, by iudden rain on the hills jure above the tonrn ; in which cafe they make uCe of canoes x this often happens, erpecially during the rainy ieaion tour iummer); but the town, which is on the Couth Tide of the river, iraggles i`o as not to deierve the name of the capital of a populous though i-nail ing- dom. They have an excellent breed of horles, much valued at h3adlas; horned cattle and goats, but few or no iheep. VeiTels dracving under eight feet water can come ovel- the bar with irin tides, which is two miles from the town; but carinot So higher than about: half a mile, where they ibmetimes heave doMln and I-epair. liere are many of the king's v·arehoufes o(as) for Telingn :alt. Iany Ilialdivia boats come yearly to ArCIJEEII) and bl-ing chiefly dried l onnetta in finall pieces about ttvo dr three ounces: this is a fort of 3 itaple Page 45 (45 AapI article of commerce, and many fhops;n the Bnxm tfcaf in it: only, having large cluantit-ies piled up, put in matt bags. It is, when: properly cured, hard lilte horn in the middle; when kept long the wormgets to it. I am told it is cucd at the Illaldivia IJ2ands by the iun only. I queition whether herrings and pilchnrds would not ·anfer even carried thus far, they are ib fonct of fin diet, as Malas in general are. The king's palace (dlllum), about Io )rards fi·om the ikirt of the town, and to which there is accei by a canal from the river, as well as by land, is about three quarters of a mile in eircumfereice, is ditched round,- and: is alib iirrounded with a itrong wall, but not high. A number of large venerable trees ihade it, ith a good many tall bamboos: it is built on higher ground than the town,i of courire it is not fuljet to be overAoed. I' fall iBy more of it by and by. I have Oid, that in the year r?62;I touchcb at ickeez in my ny to Gencoalen. The ihabander, vvhoie name i forgot, not agreeine; \vith me about the price of opium, and learning from the linguiit Abraham, that it was impoirble to deal with any other perbn, about the beginning of January I igl7ed through the Surat pai- age, with the wind at NE, leaving about It Chulia veiTels in the road ofAtcheen, and proceeded to Nalnboo, lying in 4" ro' h' lat. Here, during the NE monioon the r·eather is remarkably fine, juit as it is on the X/Ialabar coait during that monfoon, Thel-e Is ex- cellent anchorage in Io fathoms mzkdd3/arozlnd, Io or ra miles of-: Nnlaboo, aild q.fathoms z miles off. During the SW monoon the ·wind is W and NW, with rain. When I firit came near 1Vnlaboo, remarkable for a grove of coco- nut trees, on a fmall promontory (yet not above fix feet higher than the beach or low land)I iam in the horizon Ilext the land (being ten five leagues off) about twent)r iii7all Rr-rite i`Iecks, that ieemed to pais acroi`s each other: preiently i iacv each vhite fpeck had a imaller black ipeck cloie to it, anil immediately after found I had got clofe to a fleet of the imnlreit fifhing boats I ever beheld. The \rrhite rpeck as a Tail, nd the black ieck a man. Thci^e ca- Thefe ca noes Page 46 4·6 rroes fiih all uadep fail, the iail fimilar to what I have before de- icribed; the fingle man iPated abaft, pOiG"g his body with Sl.eat: care, uniteps and teps the mail, and i`ets the fail by leaning for- ward. They ibmetimes catch Inr,ae fiih, that drag the boat for per- haps half a minute J thee they tow on ihore ja a i`mall bay between the coco-nut grove above mentioned and r-iver's mouth. I have bought from thoCe fi.ihermen, fii of all Gzes, very cheap. Into this freh-ater river boats of middling Gze can enter at all times, ex- cept dead low water; and Malay trading prows Set in, and go a great may up into a plentiful Aat country, abounding with r·ice. Here fifteen fowls are fold for a dollar; a bullock may be bought for fix; and good profit may be had on European goods, efpecially iron, iteel, and cutlery, alfo Bengal opium, and coiras of eight and nine rupees value. The king endeavours to monopolize all the trade, but in vain. The gold duit of Nalaboo is reckoned very fine, and the boncalweighs ieventeen mayan; at SoaSoo not fo fine, In 1762, I fold, during a itay of about ten days, thirty cheits of opium to Limamlaly, the feudal lord of this diitriEt, as the king's officers happened not to be on the I`pot. I got ten boncal a cheft, which is above 5;0 rupees: the Calcutta prime coil was 2go Arcot rupees. Since that time Limnmbaljl certainly was at war with the king, about the year I770· I forgot to iay, that, during the SW monioon, which, by the gite (lying) of the coait, becomes NW, and blows freih with rain, the very iinall fiihing canoes are laid up, and large Atcheen filing boats (Kolnys) are made ui`e of at Nlaboo ; At SioSoo there is a good harbour, in which I have been, The king of Atcbeen gets mofr of his gold from Nalaboo and Soo- So, and fi-om Pedir within the 1Wa(accaJ2rair moit of his beetle-nut and Pel?P"'· I ""S once on board of a large BomLay ihip, com- manded by a very worthy gentleman, Captain Richardfon, who had juit partly delivered from Archeeta Ronp a cargo of Coromandel piece goods to the ihabander, and had then on board the king's officers, and nras bound to Per tq take in a cargo of beetle-nut. Par·tuSueze t·eirels carry much beetle-nutl both whole, and cut atld dyed red, from Alcbcen to PeS2c. Enlil b Page 47 4·7 nglih country Ihips at Archeen tyadealways with the king's merchant, who is generally the ihabanderor miniiter: this, at leait, gives diCpatch; they could not have patience to deal with the natives, as the Chulias do, even were they permitted. Engliih veffels have often been cut off at Pedir, when trading there without the king's leave; this happened to Captain Bull and Captain Pan- ton, two very worthy gentlemen, commanding veirels from BengL1 about the year r765· Captain Bull's velTel was retaken by 3 ipi- rited Serang, when the Malays were off their guard. I am certain, at Nalaboo, Oran Cayo Limambay had no fuch i·ntention, as he gained upon me ib much by his civilities, that I was entirely in his power; but I would adviie Malay traders never to be off their guard, as I was, and to be moit upon it when great civility is ihewn them. Rt Nnadoo I went on ihore more than once; it·was rather imprudent. The kings of Atcbeen, who ieem from all ac- counts to have been formerly cruel and opprefilvee tyrants, perhaps wink at iich baieaefs,perhaps encourage it. The perions employed are the moit abandoned, at the fame time they are of·iinooth ad- dreis, who, when the plot is r·ipe, dire(5t their initruments how to at; as for example, as I have been told, it once happened to an Engliih country captain.--" When I call for my beetle-nut box" (tamparSeeree, which is about fix or eight inches long, and three dr four deep), iias the-head afliifIin to his iervant, " that is the Ggnal for you to itab the captain with the crefs that lies in the`bottom of the box covkred with beetle leaves." It is the Senel-al cutom to dii- arm the R/lalays when they come on board to trade: but who would iuiyet the beetle-box' The following is an account of one of the moit hlorid conipira- cies I ever heard of; it affeAs me the more as i was intimate with the lufferers a few days before it haypened. It is irregular in point of time, but a-propos to what·I m treating of, the treachery and wickedneis of Malays in general. In I784 1 waitet on the king of Leda at ier, about one tide above the town, to demand reititu- tion of the value of an EnSliih inow andCcargo, value 50001. whoie commander, Captain CbiTan, iupercargo, Mr. Overbu-y (a Bencoo- I len Page 48 48 len civil rervant), two EnSljihmen, brothers, named May, and the gunner, a Dane, were in one night murdered, September 1782, by one Malay, affiltej by one Laicar only, whom he had ieduced. They were iir-it attempted to be poii-ned, and were all taken w.ith violent vomitings the night the horrid deed was done, after iupper: yet no iuipicion aroie, asthe Malay was a pairenger in the veirel, under Mr. Overbury's proteEtion. The affair was over in a moment, as they were itabbed in their fleep. One of the two Mays being wounded, jumped overboard, and was never heard of; the captain and gun- ner MeTe killed outright. Next day the Serang, under pretence of dreiring the Malay's hand, that had been cut in itruggling with the captain,ftabbed him, iecured ·the Lafcar (whilit two boats were iken rowing from the ihore to the veirel full of men, from BnSs Harbozlr), and carried the fnow back to eda. I could get no ia- tisfation for veirel or cargo; and Jemmal, the king's miniiter, a Chulia Mdorman, treated the affair lightly: but, truth demands of me to fay, I had no letter from the Bengal government to the king on the iujet; I had only a letter from the owners, empowering me (if in my way to Rhio I touched at ueda) to make the demand. What has been done Gnce I know not. Captain CoiTan and I ca- reened in eda River together, in Auguit 1782; and I remember to have heard that the Malay, who had got into favour with Mr. Overbury by his infinuating manners, was taken on board at Jan Slan, where, I uipet, he had committed ibmething bad. I was credibly informed the Lafcar was let run off by Jemmal, who told me he broke priibn. The appearance of th·e boats, that mull have been informeti by rgnal only of what had happened, made it be iupeAed it had been a concerted buGneis at aedcr, when the vei- 1 repaired there. Theik particulars I learnt from poor Overbury's Malay girl, at Ca]cuiia. Jemmal, the king's merchant,_with diffi- culty let her have her clothes. She told me Over·bury got from the cabin window to the malt head, whence he dercended, on the Malay's promiiing to ii,are his life; but he tabbed him the mo- ment he reached the quarter-deck. Had he encouraged the crew from the malt head, they iurely would have recovered from their fright iooner than they did. This Page 49 49 This is a itrange relation, and kews the puiillan;mity of IndoC- taners, when they are not encouraged by a leader.: there was at leaft a Serang and twenty Lafcars belonging to the veirel. In the year I?6q, I again virted Archeen, and had the honour of paying my reCpeCts to the king, MahomedSelim: my audience was appointed at eight in the evening. I accordingly got ready feme piece goods to the amount of about forty rupees, as a preient, which were divided into two parcels, and put up in corn-mon bafta covers, which had been previoufly ftained with turmerick, yellow being the royal colour, as in Ch;na and at l·lindano. Having been told it was expeAed I fllould pull off my ihoes, I waved the morti- fication, by wrapping round each a piece of red bunting, and tying it with a kind of garter of the fame, juit before I enter-ed`the au- dience hall (ruma bicharro), which was about Gxty feet long, and twenty broad, built of tone, with a itone floor. At the farther end, which was covered with carpets, hung a uperb cloth of gold, about fifteen feet ijuare, which reached within three feet of the floor. There were about twenty well dreired perions in the room, orancayos, a venerable calipha,-and others, ever one bare- footed, having left their flippers without. As Ientered I ialuted this company. Two Seapoys were alio in the hall, upon guard, dreired and armed as ours generally are. In about two minutes the golden cloth was drawn up, like the curtain of a play-houre, ex- aAly in the fame way, and we all made a profound obedience to his majeity, who 3Uit glanced his eye at me. My two iervants were then ordered by the habander to advance with the yreients, which, after having prciented, by holding them up and bending their bodies, they gave to an attendant, and were then direAed to withdraw. The cloth of Sold had covered a large niche in the wall, a kind of alcove, in the middle of which the king was feated in an arm-chair, nrith his legs acrois, barefooted, his flippers on the floor of the alcove. The king was Saily drefed in Giver Ero- cade, over an inner garment of white muflin; his turban was very mall, being a Lingle piece of Sold flowered muflin, gathered toether at the ends, tied rouad the'head with a half knot, and was orna- I z mented Page 50 50 mented with a few jewels. Ne feemed to be about forty years of age, with a yleafincS· countenance, rather fair for a Malay. Two elderly women igt on the Aoor, cloie to each fide of his chair, their eyes ffxed on the ground, n·hich was about five feet higher than the hall in which the court was affembled. The alcove was lighted with two large wax tapers coloured red, much like what we fee in Roman Catholic churches. The hall was lighted with pendant lamps, in which they burnt oil. Having caught the king's eye, immediately after the diiiniaion of the preients, I made his majeity a fecond profound -bow. Pre- ikntly he poke to the fhabander,, the ihabander Cpoke to ·the lin- guilt, and Abraham aiked me whence I came. I addreffed his ma- jeity direEtly in IMalay, on which.the ihabander pulled me gently by the fleeve, and looked diiapprobation; but I went on. The king iiniled, and took no notice of their interruption, as if offended with me. I had then the honour of converiing with his majeity for about a;r]uarter of an hour, who aiked me ikveral pertinent queitions about Mdras, Bengzl and Bencoolen, and particularly to what parts of the ifland SzrmarrLa (Pzllo PzcrclJd) I had iBiled. I then, by intimation from the ihabander, who, I iuppoie, had his iignal, retired, walking rather backward, until out of the hall. Nobody in the hall was ieated; neither did I fee in it bench, chair, or itool. I left moit of the company in it itanding, who politely made way for me, as I retired ; and, at the door at which I entered, .I made again a profound bo\Y, being then in full view of the king in the alcove at the further end of the hall. Next day a bulIock was iknt me, with various fruits. I failed Zwo days after for Nattal, after preCenting the ihabander and Abraham with iome trifles. In the year 1772, Giles Wollotvay, Eih. rerdent of'T'appnnooly, was ient to Afcheen by the Bencoolen govmment, with a letter and prefent, to afle leave from the king to make a iettlement there. I carried him from his refidency of bp;pcnooy in the Loconia now. Not being very well on my ar- rival, I did not accompany Mr Holloway (a very ienfible and diE- creet Page 51 51 ) creet gentleman, and who fpoke the Malay tongue very fluently) on Ihore at his firft audience; and finding his commiiron like to prove abortive, I did not\go to the palace at all. There was great anarchy and confufion at Atcl4een at this time; and the male- contents ·came often, as I was informed, near the king's palace at night. A diicreet native of CtldJalore, Mr. Gwen Harrab, com- manded the king's Seapoys. One day, being on ihore for`a little while,'as Mr·. Holloway and I did not like to be both long on kore gether, I faw Mr. Harrab paying his men in gold dull, weighing out to each twomayan as a month's pay, about eight rupeesi- He told me he was often obliged tq watch ;nll night himfelf, complain- ing of his Seayoys being apt to be drowfy. I failed in a few days, Mr. Holloway not iucceeding in his embairy; and leaving him at. appmzool, I proceeded on to Frt Ma-lorotlg Returning from my New Guinea voyage to Forf Marlboroug in r7T5 I touched at Atcheen: the king was very ill, and iaw. no itrangers. My old friend Abraham got the new iabander, Poglly, to prei`ent my compliments to the king, who returned me a polite aniiver. Having quitted the Tartar galley,' I went down the coait with Mr. Palmer, in a floop belonging to him, and touched at Sictdo Hnrbour, where we took in water: we lay there in four fathoms water, cloie to the rocks, quite iinooth. Tn I7s4 I "ain viGted AtchEen, and had an audience of the king, Sultnn Oola Odine, ion to the former king, with much the lame. ceremony and preiknts as paie'dtwenty years before: but this king having travelled, ipske both Malay, French and Portugueze. His improvement not only in languages, but the arts, was obtained from the following circumitance, as I have been informed by Po- iglly the ihabander, Abraham, and others. During the life of the late king, Oola Odine, his eldeit Eon, tTras lent in a ihip of his father's to Mecca and Medina, to make an offer ing at the ihrine of the prophet. Near the ifland Malsrjtius where the veirel happened to be drove, they were Jhort of water, and obliged Page 52 52 3 obliged to put in.there. A difficulty occurred.in debate vhether the prince ihouldppear in his real charaCter, oras a private perCon. They agreed beihould appear as a relation of tile king's, going on,, pilgrirnae, to become a iazran hadjee, mafter pilgrim, and they kept their counel. The coniequence was, Odien, being a lad of iPirit and genius, got into.the arfenal, and learnt to cat guns and ihells. They certainly knew time out of mind, at Atcheen, how to cait brais guns and iron ihot: but here the prince, no doubt, improved his knowledge; and T was told the French never knew whom they had the honour to have amongit them until the veirel was failed: but this I Kery much doubt, as ihe itaid there above a month. .Sul- bn Ooladine, in 1784, made no iecret to me of his having been at Mtritizls; and at my firlt viiit, after the delivery of the uCual pre- ient of a few piece goods incloied in yt·llow cloth, ordered a ikr- vant to put mto my hands a ihell of his own calling at AtchEen, about7 or 8 inches in diameter. Yoili! raid he, in French, Cncz- la I accordingly daihed it on the part of the itone floor that was not covel·ed with the carpet, and it went to pieces. The king then .ordered two rmall field carriages to be brought into the hall: one of .them had the wheels ipokeci as our·s generally are; the other had .truck.wheels, full as Inl-ge, not heavy, but thin. C hich of thoie carriages do you approve of? raid the king. I gave the preference to the rpoked wheels, on which his m;tjeRy with great good humour laug·hed,;and raid, Xa(la,Snia, capitain--You are miit$ken, you are ,miltaken, captain. J, then, by way of recovering myfelf (for i per- ceived, after a moment's refleion, that the king was right in a certain degree), laid, Barancallee de neegri gllnong gunong,Seperilttee AclJe'; tappi, de neegri rat/a rattn,Seperatree linga, Poiiibly in a hilly country, .like Atcheen ; but, in a Rat country, like Indopan--The king laughed agam, feemed. pleafed with my anfwer, and ikid, Bitlou derry piddo iloa-True, that is the reaion; on which I made him a bow, and the converiation iooa ended, Viiiting the king a day or two af- ter this, I perceived, berdes the wo large braib mortars rent to a former Atcheen monarch, by our king James, many heaps of brais guns of all fzes, and from all nations, no ways arranged, but heaped Page 53 53 heaped up in the F;reateit confuiion. I have alio obferved in the road from the river to the palace gate, which is about 300 yards, in more than one place, the trunnion of a large brais gun iticking up out of the ground: confidering the oft muddy foil, there are doubtleis many buried near the palace, never to be found. They generally buy iinall guns, being of eail conveyance, when brought for Ble, as no veirel, Atcheen or Malay, fails without being armed. I have alfo obikrved on more than one point of the reaches of the river, large honey-combed iron guns mounted on decayed and rot- ten carriages. They ierved for ihow to the ignorant. The Atcheeners, · when pufhed, can certainly exert themiklves; they are doubtleis pretty good mechanics, and know the uie of pult ley, fcrew, and capftan perfetly well; but engines made ufe. of.to raiie heavy guns, or draw up their large veirels, are only. for themo ment; they are then thrown by to rot, much like what I have ieen at Mindano. A lazineis prevails in all Mooriih governments, which no doubt ariiks from their belief in fataliih7, a moit conve- nient creed for thoik who are averfe to work, to ·exertion,.or peri`e- verance. I fent to the king a copy of my voyage to Mew Guinea, having firit explained many of the maps to. ILofally and Abraham. I ient, at the fame time, an ordinary mac-monde, having no better The king lent for me two days after, and`converEed with me in an upper apartment, on a level I believe with the alcove, to which I aCcended behind the rzlma de bicbarro (hall of audience), by a ladder. The king made me fit down on amat, over which was ipI·ead a iinallcarpet, on which he fat himielf, and aflred me many clueG tions about the Molucca princes, pointing to the print of their genealogy in the book I had fent him: he aflred me aiCo many queitions about Europe and Neegri-Cling, Indoftan. I could not help obferving that the king ioke with a ftrong afiirate, as Atchceners general'y do, a kind of burr in the throat, entirely dif- ferent from all other Malays. As his majeity knew I had the honour of being known to his father many years before, that I had often been at Alcheen, and that Page 54 se that I had been a great traveller in Malay countries, he mas ib kind as to iky, in a very gracious manner, MareeSeenee baralzcallee bichnro, Come here and chat lometimes. I went ieveraltimes; but always fent firit to know if his majefty was at leii`ure. One day I carried a French book with me, a volume of Voltaire, and read a ieatence out of it, The king aiked for the book, which I left with him. I iuipeA, however, he could not read the Roman charaAer; but he read with eaie the names of the Molucca princes in the book I had preiEnted, written in Arabic charaters, which both Atcheeners and Malays uie in writing. In converfing, the king mixed often French with Portuguefe. When I went to the palace, I generally found Poially, and ibmetimes Abraham. I never ikw ally body fit down in the king's preiknce; and I never did but when aiked, a:lcl then with ihoes off, left below, turning my feet as much as I could inwards: this I found a tireiome poiture. · I iometimes played on the German flute, at the king's deiire, which he was pleai`ed to hear " Three or four days before my departure, Pofally GSn;fied to me the king meant to confer on me the honour of being made Knight of the Golden Sword, OttM CayO cerry piddang mn3.; of which there exiited, as I was told, about ten or twelve natives, one of them an eunuch, a comely man, rather luity, employed at the cuitom- houie. I have iken him with his chapp, a iingle waved iivord or dagger, about an inch long, in relief, on a piece of gold, hanging at his breait: this honour had alio been conferred on two North Bri- tons, Captain Douglafs Richardibn, and Captain Robert Smart. I told roially I was much obliged to his majeity for the honour he intended me, and ihould wait his pleaCure; at the Fame time Poflly defired I. would write my name on a flip of paper; I wrote it in ca- pitals, which he pronounced after my reading it, and writing him- IP1E my name in A1-abic charaters, Ggnified it was to diret the goldmith who was to make the chapp. Two or three days aftcr- wards, I was defired by a Seapoy ferjeaTlt to So to the palace. I x And liked much a Malay iong I had made, and Tet to the Correnti Vivlce of the 3d Sonata of Corelli. I told Page 55 55. told this to Pofally, and we went together at eight in the er-en- inS· The king, from the alcove above, after lome little converfa- tion with his courtiers beloY, ipoke to Poially in the Atcheen tongue, who, itepping towards me, put a iinall chain of Sold over my head, round my neck, to which the golden chapp iith iotne fillagree writing in Arabic, and the figure of a waved dagger in re- lief, hung: he thus invefted me with the order of the g(i2'enword (piddang mas), on which I made a profound bow to the king, who iiniled, and to his courtiers, who all returned it by lifting bath hands to the hed and inclining the body. In a little while I took leave, after -ying audibly,`Oomoor prmjangcnzMao Ian-Kiro, Stnp tnntree l;da buleScio lupo· Funn-Kfo pznio hrrat. " Long life to the '' king i Until death I iall remember the honour he has done me." Next morning I was prefented with a young bul·lock, two cut goats, and a great cluantity of excellent fruit. I returned tmo pieces of yellow china flowered damaik, about four dozen bottles of per- fumery, ieveral prints of the Senfalogy of the kings of mn'nna, and of the Mindano marriage: to Poikllgr I gave a pair of piitols he ieemed to fancy, and to my old friend Abraham ",.feveral things I knew would be uieful to him and his famil Thus 'i· Abraham was fond of muGc, and often ihed tears when I played on the violin: he laid it put him io much in mind of Eu-opr, where he was born, fomewhere in Hcnsary. The Calipha, or Cady, was a very pleaGng old gentlemn, and aiked me many queitions about the Turks and the fize of their morques: I told him the moique of St. Sophia in Con/iNntinop(P was immeniely large; and I obferved to him the Malays were much happier than the Turks, becaule they were not To jealous; at which he Cmiled, and took it as a compliment. He had but one wife, who had ieveral female fervnnts; and this is much the cuiom amongft Malays in general of the better Cert, as I found alTo when at ilail2clllC, ill I7T6· I ihewed the Calipha, and read to him, my tranflation of Pope's paraphraie of the Lord's Prayer: he.defired a copy of it, which one of the (Jr,ru!ij; clerks wrote oot. DEO OPTIMO MAXIMO. ORATIO UN1VERSALIS IN LINGUA MXLAY=L r. Bapa de ibmonio de romotlio dunia, De iomonio nigri illjud; Dery Chriitian, dery Cafer, dery Hindoo, der Saiam; Deos, Jehovah, Tuan Alla i Ii 2. caa· Page 56 5Ei Thus ended my feveral interviews with two of the kings of i9cbeet who certainly treated me with great civility and politeneis. Z am orIy to add, that it was laid even o the preent king, that he can't tfuit his own ubjets; he therefore has a guard of Seapoys, who are ibmetimes without, iometimes within the palace; but al- ways near his peribn. I aflred PoTally, and alo Abraham, the meaning of this, who always aniwered Bgitre adat, " Such is the cuitarn," without explaining further-; others have 6id plainly, luan- z. Cam icio are iko mankanan dangang rifltimo, Somonio lain apb ape, Tuan tow callo by eafli callo tida, Tuan alla punio iuko. 3· Adjar icio ryang ati lain oran punio chellka, Adjar Ccio tutup matto lain oran punio Calls, Bugimano icio ampong Cummo lain oran, Caih ampong iummo icio, r. Father of all i in every age; In every dime, ador'd, By faint, by iltvage, and by iage, Jehovah, Jove, or Lord. 2. This day be bread and peace my lot: All elie beneath the fun, Thou know'8 if bell beitow'd· or noq And let thy will·be done. 3· Teach me to feel another's woe, To hide the fault I fee; That mercy I to others ihew, That mercy flew to me. 1 thought it but decent, as Igave the king a tong, to give the biihop a prayer, which he admired muchi as old Fakymolano brother to the iultan of Magindano did : this need not be wondered at, for iurelr true ChriAian fentirnents were admired in all ages; witneb theCe benevolent lines of Juvenal : - - - molliifima cordi Humane generi dare ie Natura fatetur, Quae ]achrymas dedit: h;ec noitri pars optima tenits. -x The king of RiEhecn laid to Commodore Beaulieu, in r6Ig, that his orankay6s charged him with cruelty, not coniidering it was their own wiclcedncl's that drew upon them Page 57 57 CTan-Kiro rEe Achk dwloo tackzl dtry dio punio ornnkayo, t( The kings ' of ntcheenformerly were afraid of their nobles.'' They were too polite to Cay the preient king was. This accounts for going up by a ladder to the back apartments, that were by no means larger than what are ufually i-en in Malay houfes of people of rank. 1 never walked about the circuit of the palace; I feared it ·ould have given offence, as if I was curious to ipy the nakecineis of the land: but I iaw enough to convince me it had been once irnmeniely large, and mny parts ihewed an extenljve ruin, with the points of beams in many places flicking up through the rubbiih of long-fallen brick walls; the ruins of itone walls were overgrown with bulhes, and were ihaded by very large venerable trees and tall bamboos " The preient king, Sultan Ooladine called after an unclei who had lived everal years at Manras, in th'e time of Governor Morie, and afterwards at I'apponon, and ipoke good EnSlifh), is a iovereign of whom his iibjeLs in general iIeak well: having travelled, he wilhes to civilize them, by encouraging learning amongit the many priefts, with which his country abounds, much more than any other Sumatran itate: the convenience alio of going at a iinall expence to Mecca yearly, encourages many to become fun iSaAjeel, and dzcan imums, which is altvays reiietable; and there is no iuch thing as a tuan hadjee being reduced to beggary. Of the rerpet paid to my old fellow traveller Ii;naelTuan Hadjee, merely from them.the.anger of God, who made uie of him as an inffrument to punifh their impiety; that they had no occaGon to complain of him who maintained them in their rights and pOFeflions, and preierved them from the captivity of neighbouring kingr, and the rob- beries ofitrangers; that his noles hated him becaure he iuppreifed extortion, maffacres and robberies." This was raid when the king (Sultan Siri) was much agitated, having juA ortured, in preience of Mr. Beaulieu, feveralof his omen whom he bad iulpeEted of a defign againit his life. Harris's Voy. vol. i. y. 734· It is altogether a moft ihocking relation, and nlr. BeauIieu's veracity cannot be doubted. ac Beaulieu, who was at Atchren in r6Ig, fays the city had been fix times larger than it was then, and that he went through three courts to the palace. Since 1619 it has certainly fallen off much. t This uncle Ooladine was often known by the appellation of Sultan Benc'auloo. K z his Page 58 gS tis having been at hccn, alld in conikcluence wearing a large tur- ban and nide fleeves, which dl-aw reipec fi-om the vulgar, I hart r?lany yroofs;n my voyage to ItrCTV Grcirte. Sultan Ooladine nras a man about 25 years of age, fairer than Atcheeners generally are, of agreeable mannel-s, having nothing !ughty or auitere about him; ipoke rather c]uick, mixing Portu- Suei`e rith his French, very often, as if in a hurry to expreis his neaning. He Ceemed to have profited by the little French education that he had accidentally got, and of which he was not a little vain: his courtiers replPect in Malay when he ipoke firit in that tongue; but he ioke to me generally in French, ometimes in Mala-y. PoiallSs the ihabander was about the fame age, and, I was informed, much in his fagour; he had a pleailng addreis: I have often liitened to him hearing petitioners, when they fpoke Malay, in the itreet, before his houEe, of a morning, which when he rejeted, it was In a mild and polite manner, ending the petitioner almoit always iatisfied away. At chen they have tame elephants', on which, as well as on horfeback, they often travel, I have i`een ieveral of the king's ele- phants carried duly of a morning to the river to be waked, Aappiag their eyes with their large ears to keep off the fly. The king had about ten of them, in different parts· near Atcheen. On holidays, aree TL13'n) I was told they are all creit out, and make a figure; but I never ijw one. Their morcues are ihid to be numerous,, but very iinall; fifty perfons mould almoit fill one; they are all whitened with lime,. capooP·; they are i`cattered amongit many villages, the houies of Tvhich not being whitened, the moiques are· the more conipicuous; their i`mallneis accounts for their number. They have many priefts, nn hndjees, and tzan imms, and two or three calihas,. iometimes called cad. Their puniihments at Alchcen are ievere according to the nature of the crime. In the Bazar I have often met beggars and others a Wild elephants are in abundance all over Sumatra, and they often do much mifchief to rice and plantain fields. without Page 59 ( 59 without the right handy ibme without the right hand and left foot, having repeated the offence. I have been told, that when a fire happens, the owner of the houCe in which it broke out is ie- verely puniihed ". VVhat Mr. Marfden relates of their puniihment of an adulterer is a fat; nay, I have been told it extends to the debaucher of a virgin, gndis. " The culprit is carried to a large " plain, and is there incircled by the friends and relations of the L injured party. A large weapon is then delivered to him by one '( of his own family; and if he can force his way through thoie CL who furround him, he is not iubjea to further proiecution; but CL it commonly happens that he is initantly cut to pieces." An EnSliih country captain, whole name I forgot, once told me that he had been applied to by Come Atcheeners, for a markiman tc fhoot a man of this deicription, who ibmehotv had eiicaped, whe- ther in the above ilirited manner, or otherwi·ie; tvas not faid; but he had hid himfelf on the top of a coco-nut tree. The captain very prudently derired to be excuied. The Atcheeners are of a mor·e iivarthy complexion than the in- habitants.to the i`onthward, and far more ihrewd and acute than any other Malays on the ifland SLlmalra : their chara8er, I think, comes neareit the BuggeiTes, inhabitants of Ce(L·bes, for addrefs and; dexterity in bufineis; but far inferior in true honour and bravery, which is the charateriftic of the BuggeiTes·i·.. (I do not remember any Chineie at aicheen; but ChineCe were there in Commodore Beaulieu's time. The keen Chulias i-em to leave nothing fot- them to pick up. Before I conclude this ihort account of what E- obierved at Atcheen, during the feveral virts I made to that port, s excellent account of: I catlnot help again mentining Mr.. Marid'en'- the ifland Sllmnfl-n, Pulo Ptlrcbn, a book I have mor·e th-an once: quoted: his account is faithful, curious, and eras; and,. as I have *; Com, Beaulieu lays a. fire happened whili2 he was there, that burnt 160 houfes in ani hour, and that the Iring impaled the woman: in whole-houie it broke out. Harris's Voyage, vol. i. p. ;36· On the contrary, tl;e ktcheeners· eem to exceed all other AGatics I have known foo villany and treachery, whieh charaaer is confirmed by Beaulieu in many inRmce I EBLCCeB Page 60 Ga p3Cied many years of my life on trading voyages to that ifland, T read it with great pleaiure and fatisfaaion, as it recals many Ccenes of manners and cuitoms to my memory, by time and abiknce almoit obliterated. Mr. Mariden underi2ands the LMalay tongue better than any European I ever knew. I once alked Poially if Moni: Suffrein, the French admiral, who, with his fleet, had refreihed at ntcheen in November I782, had een the king. Pofally igid that Moni: Suffrein once came on ihore, in a iinallboat, to look at the town, but did not fee the king, although he wiihed it; becaufe, the king having loll a fa- vourite child, was in great grief, and faw nobody. Coniidering this as a polite excue, I preired PoSally to know the truth; on which he tbld me the Ft-ench admiral would not perhaps have taken off his hoes as you did; and he could not iEe the king otherwiie, On this I faid, that I had, at my vifit to Sultan Mahomed Selim, aout twenty years ago, wrapped a piece of red cloth over my ihoes, and fo kept them on; on which he laughed, iying he had heard of it. Latterly I was excuied this ceremony in the audience hall, rilma bicharro ; but, when I went up the ladder to the back apartment, I always took off my aloes at the head of it, before I itel)t on the clean mats, over part of which was a imall carpet, on which the king fat; and I iometimes had the honour of fitting on the mat, at a iinall diftance from him. 1 left ArclJeen the middle of January, leven Chulia veffels then lying in the road: haing ia- luted with fcven Suns, before I tripped the anchor, to hich a rel turn was made, Of Page 61 iI 6r ) OfJ;tiling frolll Aicheen Road dozen t15e conJt of$umatra-Surar PagiFgc, Scdre PLObge--Sidda Harbour--King's Bay--l'ozens in King's Bay-- $adnle IJZand--CIJina-har HI'I(--Cap I7and-Nalirboo-Soo/-Q-Doue Cape-Pulo Drto--Peak of Rule Bn--Paige Iand--dircAions to paSf ;r--Sinkel River--Leaga Harbour--·Capt. I)uggin's mate agoi- nated there, in I7531hiP Experiment zerecked on Bird jnd, in r?72--Pulo Maaulnr--lappanooly Harbour. IT,i has been iBid in a note, on the Cecond page of the Introduc- on, that a ihip may back and fill through the Suraf Pa_Obgc, on the itarboard tack, with the tide againit the SW wind. I pre: fer this tack to the other, becaue, after rangirig Srony Iand on this tack, when the ihip comes abreait of the pafliage, by luffing up un- der top-fails only, and backing the maintbp-fail, ihe gets through in a moment, the tide at this narrow gorge (not 150 yards acroi-) Get- ting very ftrong; it is quite bold onthe Gde of the main of Sumatra ; and the narrov part may be aid to have no length, as it immedi- ately widens, and you are Iroon in anchoring ground, which is not to be had at or very near the narrow part on either Tde of the narrow, called Pintoo (Door) with great propriety, by the natives, The Sedre Sagrxge is much wider; but there is foul anchorage in iome parts df it, and a fand bank, urhich however, has 5 fathoms on the koaleit part: if a ii-tip tries this pafage, ihe kould have boats ahead, at leai), until it is better ·known. The harbour of Sr'ddo is iinall. In the harbour, in q, fathoms water, muddy bottom, a ihip has not much room to iwing in : when I made the plan of it which is in the New Guinea Voyage, I was deceived by its being high water at the initant, and the coral rocks being hid: it is not -fo large as is there reprefented. Here you get good water and refrelh- ment; or the ihip may lie without Slcper Rock, and Sugar-loafHill, in an excellent iinooth road. Between Siddo Harboa7 and Kitrg's Poifff is King's Bay, with good anchoring ground throughout. In this bay are the following ncegrrps (towns): Lunga, containing 4 mofques and 300 houies; KOQS) 2 mofques and 200 houes; Sid4a, r6 houies; Ljvas, 30 houies; Lapuan, 300 houies; and I·!inga, 300 houls. 5 Although Page 62 B·t nlthough I never was on ihore in any of theie places, exceyt Ss;?'do, I cannot help remarking, that, at Siddo there are only 16 houies; and yet Siddo, in the hands of Europeans, would become a port of conieguence: but hlalays, having no large veirels, think no har- bour defirable but where there is a freih-water river; being Maho- metans, they are fond of frequent ablution, and always in fi-eih wa- ter. I am told there are ieveral rivers in this bay into which their provvs find admiiron, no doubt to the.ie neegrees already named. At the bottom of the bay is a low neck of land dividing King's Bay from Atc6een Road; this ifthmus is well Planted with coco-nut trees, and the country around has much the look of cultivation. See the View of Sfd Harbour and Szlgar-lonf Hill. Having left Sia'do Harbour, you pais two bays, where there is a good deal the appearance of harbours; but I never explored them r you then pa·rs without Sandle IartB,. where there is foul ground, Sand and coral. Being a little ·cvy pall Sadd IJand (but this depends entirely on the height of the eye), you will fee Chljla-Bnt Hill, at a diitancei appearing dlisjunt from the main land; you then pars a long laretch of low land for about It miles, then a Bold foreland, and a hump about a mile disjunEt from it, and rown's Roc, where there are over-falls and foul ground. I once i-nt the boat behind a very iinan iiland in the bay, to look - anchorage; but: could find none good: you then pais a jinall ifland covered with trees, its foundation a red rock, with twenty fathoms 6 miles weit of it : you then come to Coco-nut IJZand abounding with the coco- nut tree, and gently rirngr from its ioutb end. South half ealt of Coco-nus Iatd, about 12 miles, is Cap Iad, like a jockey's cap, where the foul ground and uneven anchorage reem to end, and the fine mud ioundings begin, that reach far down the coait. ENE. of Cap IJland is CYi Hil a remarkable land. Nala6oo, already mentioned, page q6, lies in C I21N lat. and may be known by a grove of coco-nut trees. Lying in the road, C1Sina-hczs killappears like a imall ifland to the northward. SooSoo Harbour is a few leagues to the SE of Nalaboo ; hut I cannot preciikly fay hotv far. Once lying offSooSoo Harour, in It fathoms, in the Luconiz inow, with Giles Holloway, Eii. on board, bound from Atcheen to his Page 63 f 63 ) his rei;dency of I;zppaYooly, as has been already mentioned, we iet off in the boat to vifit this harbour at 3 in the afternoon, judging, from the appearance of the trees on the low land, that we ihould ibon be on more; but we were much miitaken in the diltance, and it was near dark before we reached it. We went in, however, rowed round ibme prows that lay there, but not liking our fituation, it being now almoA dark, immediately returned on board with the land tvind. The eitimate of the diltance of woody lands is always de- ceitful. Ican igy nothing of this harbour with any certainty; it is ig;d to be a very good one, and is not far from Nalaboo. I am ibrry I had not an opportunity of obferving even its latitude; but off this part of the coait there is a very great extent of excellent anchorage, a good way from the land. From SooSoo, in failing to the fouthward, you pais by a remark- able double cape, made by two Aat points of low land, in lat. 3' 3 N: from hence you pais Point La6oon, lat. z0 50/ N, having good mud ibundings all the way, and 20 fathoms water·about 8 miles from the land. Point Laoon or Laboaan (anchorage) when it bears ENE, from 22 fathoms, mud, the beach feen from the eye Ig feet above the horizon, there appear three rmal2 iflands; the ifland moit to the right, or SE, bearing E by S, and Point Laboon bearing as above ENE. There is a itrong indica- tion of there being melter behind them, as behind Pulo Carmtg, the fcoo, and Priaman Iands, mentioned in a note in page 38; I i`uE- peA alCo two of theie three iflands are the Pulo Duo (Two Iflands) mentioned by Malays as having a harbour behind them. When Point Labootl bears ENE, witl the above-mentioned depth of 22 fathoms, the hummock or peak of Pulo Brmia (Many Iflands) may be feen from the height of a mallveiTel. The above peak bearing SW W, from 20 fathoms mud, a Cmall inand, called Pagbge I/land, may be juit een, bearing SE -t E; it is lov, and covered with trees, amongft which are iome coco-nut trees. See the View of ParS·e IJland, and the peak on Pulo Banin; :Suppoie a rbumb line drawn through this iflann, from NW to X1 SE, Page 64 · 6dp SE, keep to the buth-eltward, or right-hand, br Cea-ward of this line, in ioft ground, by uvhich means you will avoid two very danger- ous ihoals, one lying under water, with z or leis ·fath6ms water on it, to the north-wenvt·ard of Paage Iatzd a fecft miles, the other 50 the Couth-eaft not.quit Co far. In ·approaching Pa$ag-e nd it would be proper to fend a boat to reconn.oitre the reef that lies off the PJW part of the iiland: iave it and the illand to ·ieaward,· keeping within a proper diltance of the coral rocks, which may be iken in L ad 5 fthoms, and thei-e is from Io to 2 and rq fathoms in the fair way oft ground. Having Sot through, fleer SE by S and SE a very little tval; you rhei iteek for Sinkeliieter's mouth lyin·g in about 20 north latitude; it'is eaCy knt wn jy projAions of pini trees (cate CrTOO) at the mouth of the river: this is by far the largelt river on the ibuth-\Yeit coait of Szmarra, and goes far up the coun- try, ab6ve a month's journey. About five daps jdumey up this river it divides 'irita tiyO Brl;lclies, dr rather fticis bi·iincheb r;neeZ a't PoMo (Two Mourhp) after aving iiln t2lrough a great extent of the Batta country. Notwithitanding this river has a long cdurie, it will not admit Co large a ueEIel as ArchRen River, the bar is Co ihallom. Here, Malays and Atcheeners ikttle, and buy up all the benjamin and camphire from the rmple but ia'vage Battas, amui- iing them with fine itories of the danger of the fea. Eait of Sinkci is the harbour of Leaga or 13ineaga (Trade) about Iq miles diltant, ivhere the chief mate of Capt. Duggin of the Orange Tree floog, was ifabbed, in r753, by a blow from an Atcheener, intended for the captain (which miffed him); but the captain and iecond mate, after the chief mate fell, for he was killed outright, joined by the raicars, iaved the vefl[kl. The aidfins, four or five in number, being attacked with iPirit, Come jumped overboard and eicaped; one: or nvo were killed, as they deikrved. T -was in the fame harbour; a few months afterwards, in the honourable company's country ihip· fPrince George, Captain Burman, commanded by the Iit officer, hir. -Ormiton, and heard the itor)r com a %aptain Bunyan, of the now Kitty, who furveyed this harbour: his map of it is puMined by Mr. Dalrymple in his valuable colleAion. Sailing from Lengn Bay beware of Bird Iand, on which the company's ihip Experi- I ment Page 65 s ment was loit inI??2; it: lies 6 miles north of Pub Lucota, a Aat ifland covered with trees: keep within 22 fathoms water, in ioft ground, if you igil in the night; but I think it moit prudent to an- chor in the night, as Ihave found overfalls eait of Bird IJland, 20 to 7 fathoms, rocks, then 18, mud, Here Mazular IJland and cai- cade are remarkable, of which a view is given: the navigation within the ifland is good, depth from 17 to to fathoms, on a muddy bottom. Facing Mazular on the main is appanooly Harbour, and an Engliih 1Tettlement on a imall illand called Pooncin. Qn this ifland the grape vine has been planted, and thrives, as I ap- prehend it would on many parts of the ifland Sumafra, ·if tried. The Eettlement: is at times rather unhealthy, although fituated on a iinall ifland, with 8 light igndy foil, and well ventilated: what: can be the c.auie puzzles every one, as the water is pretty good'; but excellent water is often brought from the--main, where it is conveyed with convenience, from a ipring, by a bamboo, into the boat. " Here they get benlamin and catnphire, and mafts, for which they exchange a great deal ofPuladrais iHlt and blue cloth, with.the Battzs; ;I1To iron and ftecl. L s From Page 66 i 66 ) I·oll2 `IPLt12001 to Fort Mcibro'--CaScade on Maxular coruenient to zuafer at zetltB dpntch--Ccarncara Hjn--Natall Hi/i and Roadlhmmong .Imd and Hauaur--Ship Shafsbrook laJZ--AyPr Bongou Road--Goad police of the Dtltch--Pu(o Ibojoo--Pndnng Head--Good Road of Pzllo PiSallg--Pulo Cinco larboariSerenty IJland and Road-No_Felterfor Jhipping betzeeen Serenty and Fbrt Maro'--Rat IJlandBaSon--Pzclo Bay, unbealf5y-Recommend`ed to be avoided. N failing fiom 7appanoa to the buthward, I refer the navigator to maps copied from the French, and publiihed by Mr. Dunn"; -and here only give iome views of land, and a few direaions. From ppanooty you iteer for the Susar Loaf; leaving the ISicgar Loaf on either hand; it is common to leave it on the left, iteering to iea- ward for the iske of the expeted iea-wind; there is excellent an- chorage all over the itrait between Mnzular and the main land, which may be about 15 miles in length. A ihip may anchor all over it, and lie cloi- to the water-fall on Mnxular, which is quite diminutive when approached to what it appears at a ditance. A Emall quantity of water precipitated down 300 or Lao feet at leait, along the face· of an almoit perpendicu2ar rock, cuts a figure at a dlitance; whilit, cloie to it, it will not force a bucket from the hand of a man: this is really the cafe; no doubt it is a little impe- tuous immediately after rain, A ihip, as I have laid, may ap- proach it in good holding ground, io as to uie a hoie, and can wa- ter more conveniently than perhaps in any other part of the world. I have held a bucket cloie under it, where the rock is iteep too, and it falls in two or three inconfiderable itreams: it looks at a diitance like a long white tail fixed to a, black hore, Before you reach the gar Loaf, NarallHigb Land is to be 1Teen; ir- is, next to Mouznt Ophir, the higheit land on the coait. See the View,. In failing to the ibuthward, from Max;ulu; having got: abreaft of Carctcara Hill, of middling height, look out for NatallHill, which is- not near ii, high, and is known by iome old blaited trees upon it; w A particular urvey of the coaR of Sumatra may Coan be expeaed by Capt. Mac donald. I have ieen feme of his maps, which pleaCed mc- much, keep Page 67 ( 67 ) keep it eait, which direQion, or near it, will guide the ihip iafep pait a ihoal into the road, which is ihaliow, a good way off, but the ground is good. A view of Nasall Hill is given, lying in the road, in 4 fathoms, mud, Natal/ Point bearing SSE, and the outer end of FTammong IJland bearing S -t-:E. Behind rmmong there is a very good harbour; its approach from Natall Road is fafe; looking out for certain ihoals laid down in charts publiihed by Mr. Dal- ·rymple, the harbour's outlet to the ibuthward is alio Pafe. I muit obferve that in NatallRoad, when it blows hard from the weftward it breaks in 5 fathoms; therefore, a veirel ihould be ready to run to Ibmmong IJland ; if ihe lies in 5; fathoms it will be better than 5, and 6 itill better, the veifelYill then have more room to get off a lee ihore. A ihoal lies near Natall Road, on which a Bombay flip, called the Shaftibrook, was loll, about the year IZ7I: fh" was very rich, being loaded with Glk, There. is alib good· riding behind an ifland off Ayerbongou,: formerly a Dutch jkttlement, butr now deCerted. About Alrerbongou the hills make an agreeable ap pearance,. being, many of them, covered with graCs (la//ang) very sncommon in Malay countries, where wood almoit entirely has pofikirion of the ground. Continuing on to the SE, and leaving Pulo Balroo, by Malays called Pinge; and three iinal-l jflands to the Eouthward, the navigator will find behind thelicoo and Priaman Iandr las has been faid in a note in page 38) excellent ihelterr for the largeit hips, iinooth water, and good holding-ground; there is alro great plenty of provirons, which is univerial in Dutch iettle- ments, their police is io good. .You now pars Mount OpTir, the high- eit land on the coait: it is ofa conicalihape, and between 2 and 3 miles perpendicular height.. Having made the ifland Ibojoo CSeventh Ifland), (being the eventh feen to the northtvard from Padang Hill) haul in for the main land, and anchor if dark ; then keep on with a good look-out, and you may iteer for Padang Head, of which I give a view, bearing S by E, from 30 fathoms, mud, 8 or Io miles off, by computation; keep Pu(o P;Sang (Plantain Ifland) on the left band, going into the road of Padang, and anchor behind it; here you Set excellent refrelhments very reafonable ; there is alio a vie of Padang Head, coming from the ibuthward, with veifels in the. rad, Page 68 C es 3 road, jult feen, cloCe to Pbtlg. From Padang· you iteer either with- out ffrra and Pergama, os through the ftrait, in which there is not general good anchorage. Here is an excellent harbour on the main land; it has been furveyed by Captain Evlacdonald. Many ihips go without theie iaands, iteering torvards Ptdlo Cinco, a D·utch fettlement on a iinalliiland, with a harbour behind it, near the Pialay town Salida : the ifland is not Aat, having a iEnali hill on it. Steering towards Pzcla Cinco you leave Pulo Bab-y cutchill and Pule Bs14jr 6ar of which I give a view) on the left hand, and go on for Pzc/o Ciffco, with good anchorage all the way. A ver)r iinaH ifland with buihes on it between tfie Pulo Babys (Hog Iflands) and Pulo Cinco muft be left on the, left hand; alio the ifland Pillo Clnco itielE muit be left on that hand; you may keep cloi`e to it, and anchor behind it. A large ihip may haul cloie to a itone jetty and tie iiaooth. You then pais within or without Puio Our full of coco- nut trees, anchoring ground all the way ; behind Pulo Otrr is fhel- ter from NW winds. Betnreen Pulo C;nco and Fort Marlboroargh or Bencoolen, the only place for ihelter, working to the nolthward, is behind Sereny and, which has only a few buihes on it, and is very little known, not being eaGly diitinguiihed: it inereafes in Gze, as ah thoie iflands on coral rock bottoms certainly do;as the coral rock branches vege- tate, Bnn is gathered; it then becomes a iand bank; and when tI·ees,once get poireiron, what was formerly, perhaps, a fhoal under water, becomes iblid land. In the length of time I have known this coaft, above 35 years, I have perceived iaands increaie much; and this iinali iflan'd, SLrenry, lat. I. 40 S particularly, Leave the ifland on the left hand, or to the NW las you generally do all theie ihelter-giving iflands, to avoid the fwell on the NW part of them) and anchor behind it, in g or 4; fathoms water, a little bet- ter than a quarter of a mile from the ihore: a view of it is given, bearing in one with Oojong Rajah (King's Point) SE Z S; at the fame time Pulo ellore (Egg Ifland) bears SW by W: W: it has a iandy beach, and I fuppofe, is, or was frequented by.turtle: it is covered with coco-nut res only, and is remarkable from that circumitance. Many Page 69 ( 69 ) Many country ihips not knowing this iiooth road of Serenty aainit NW and W minds, have pnt back to Iarlborollgh, after having got io far to the aorthward; here you get good water with eafe, and rq, or 15 fowls for a dollar; whereas, at Fort Marlboroug you get only 3 or 4 for the fame money. I would recommend the inand at lealt to be reconnoitred by fuips going this wy, that they may have a port to ihelter in,in cafe of NW winds. Seyenry and is laid down in the French mapsp and Gace, in Dunn's Engliih diretory, copied from them, From Scrpnty 52ana! there is no harbour ibuthward, until you come to Rat Ian$ BaSan off Fort Marlborocgh, or Pulo Bay, a fine harbour near it; but to which, on account of its being very un- healthy, I would adviEe no ihips to p;o, unleis for a moment, being forced by a NW wind, from Marlborough Rond: a SE wind, if it continues long, makes it iickly, even at Marldorolrgh, becaue it blows over a great traa of fwampy ground; therefore, let the vei- kl return to Rat Vland as ioon as ihe can, or to Marorougb Roard Ships that have lainin Pu/o Ba_y iome weeks, hae, perhaps; felt no inconvenience at the time; but afterwards, rickners has often appeared, from the water, or more likly from the bad ait·, which,. Perhaps, left in the body the leeds of a very bad fever: of this I have ieen many initances; and it particularly attacks Europeals. Malays do not mind the bad air of Pulo, being accnitomerl to it; but LaCcai·s are affeed by it, Europeans itill more. dF Of the Island Celebes. Page 70 OF THE ]I SLAND CELEBE S. Wamc-Stilation-Bugge/j Bay--lbminee Bay--lblo Bay-Little Pa- iternoter ITands-- Climate --Rivers--;Six div54bns of Celebcr--Gaa--- Boy- tarjoo-Sopin- Silindrin-Mandar-B·geSs colonies--Goa -2tacfis Macar in I 1 o--CharaAer ofthe Buggeges--Extenve trade-- ReaSotrs zey the Dutch ke,qp pogeion of zehaf they have on Crlebes-- Manufatzlres-Shpping-BuggeSs lang·uage--ory loJ--lngenuiry-- Religion-Marriages-l;-ade to Nezet Hollattd--Revolution of govern- ment at Pair, in 1772; honozcrable· behaviour o3rfi5e BzcggeLes to the Engl on that occaJion--arl3prodce oJ elebes to she Dzlfch ingold-- Dutch Fort near Koan'ang-DeScrrpfion oftl5e Seze or BuggeSI Bay- I7andBnlly-Noquedal5 Inankee, his hnts aborrf sarior/s harbourJ on Bal and Lomboc--2lode ofgeting gold on Celebes and Sumatra. T HIS ifland, called by the natives and Malays, Neegree Oran BuggeSs (Buggeis Mans country), iqmetimes, ana Macagar, is iituated between the great ifland Borneo, on the weft, and the iflands Gilo(o or Halamahera, Ooby, Ceram and Amboyna on the eait; to the Couth there lies Salayer, divided from it by the itrait called the Buge- roons, by the Dutch; further iouth lie Mungery, imor, Sambowa; the former, Mungery, called in our old maps Land yan Floris; tqthe north there is a pretty broad rea, where are many iflands, Sangir,:ra- ther to the NE, and the Sooloo Archzelao to the NW. Celebes ex- tends from the latitude of 6" Io' S, to 20 N, and from the longitude of rr6" 4"/, to I2'0 40/;. it is very irregularly ihaped, and may be nearly as large as Great Britain. R map of Celeber is publiihed in Poitlewait's diAionary from D'Anville; another was publiihed in r?9T, by Mr. Robertibn; in neither do they put down any river; they differ alio in their latitudes and longitudes. The following account I had chiefly from Noquedah Inankee, at t2ueda, in 1782 ; he was a Buggers, a native of Sanbozea (a Buggers colony Page 71 71 ) colony on the ifland of that name), a very entble man, and had then his prow (padztnkan), about 40 tons burden, repairine; in the river. His account agrees with what I have learnt from ether BuggeiTes I have converCed with in my many eaitern voyages. Thete is a deep gulf that runs far into the ifland from the buth- vard; this deep gulf is called Seza by the natives, but by the En- gliih BlcgeSs Bny. There is alio a deep gulf runs into the N E part of the ifland : its proper name is, I believe, Ibmlplee Baj/; but by iome it is called Gorantellu, or Gunong-tellu (Hil-harboslr). It reaches io deep from the NE into the ifland, that the iCthmus Pales, that divides the bottom of it from the \r·eit iea, is very nar- row, forming a peniniula. On the N coaft of this peniniula is Ma- nado and Fort Amerdam, a Dutch fettlement, whence they get much gold, in exchange for opium and Indoitan piece goods, chiefly blue cloth, fine Bengal coiraes and hummums, iron and iteel. There is alib a gulf, not-very deep, that runs into the SE quarter of the ifland, called LTblo-bsv. Gilalo has three bays Gmilar to Celedes. In the itrait that dctvidesthis ifland from Borneo, there is a cluiter of thirteen iinall Aat iflands, called by Europeans the Lrre Paer- RoJZers, but by Malays, Pulo Balabatakan (IJlandsbehind): they lie nearer Borneo than CleGes, are covered with trees, and have navi- gable channels betnreen them, but uneven anchorage. I have been on one of them called Pule qvr (ter Iand); and here the Boad- joos, called often Oranlout (1Pen of the Sea), gather much Iwallow, in 8 or ten fathoms water". The SE monoon blowing through this itraic, veCiEls cannot well work up againit it on the Bornean ore, which being lov, gives little or no land wind in this ieai`on ; where- * To itrike the iwallow that lies upon the Lnd at the bottom, in 8 or xo fathoms water, tey fix four iron prong:;, Darallei to each other, along the Curfaces of two iron mot, of 6 or g pounds weight, about it or '4 i"ches aiunde;, to which is faftened a Tmall but itroog line; they then dry it in Cmoke, in the boat (a paduaban with a tripod maft), where often a whole family lives, and they generally keep on the lee ride of the ifland, according to the monroon. A particular account is iven of the BoadjoPs in my Voyage to heeu Gvinca, p· 37·2· as, Page 72 7a as, on the oppoiite fhore of Celebes, the land being high, there is always a freihh land-mind at night, and a iea-nlind'in the day, by means of which, a veffel can work up to the iouth\Yard, get round Pulo-Jou and io proceed to Baravin or Etcrope. The climate of Ce- leber is very temperate; no violent heats, owing to the country being diverfified with mountains, hills, and valleys; well: ventilated, and much covered with wood: the three bays already mentioned, go- ing far into the ifland, make water communication eafy, and cauie a circulation of cool wind over the whole ifland, fo as never to be ib hot as might be imagined from its low latitude. Its popu- lation is much the fame as the ifland Jaztu, where the Dutch have numerous` poCCellions, and may be reckoned about 2 or 3 millions, Celebes has three rivers; Chrnrana, the molt conGderable, takes its rife in the country of Tarjoo, runs th rough Bony, and difcharges itielf by feveral mouths into the Sewa on its well coait. European ihips can Set into it, and fail a great way up over a muddy bottom. The lecond is the river Bole, with three fathoms water on its bar; it dii`- charges itPelf, after a rapid winding courie, at Bolr, on the N coaft of the ifland; but being confined to the peniniula of Yalos, it can- not be very large, and has many fhallows in it. The third dii`charges itielf on the well coait of the ifland, a good way fouth of MrrcagZrr, where there is, within the mouth of the river, an ifland called Srrm- pang Java, which often gives name to the river: it goes up into the country of Goa. The proper name of the river is Ja-pandan, Cekbes conGfts of Gx diviGons, moit of which have a particular form of government, c. with a reat mixture of the feudal fyitem in every one of them. The firft I ihall mention is Goa ; this is the moit ancient, and lies on the W and SW coaf of the ifland, where Macaar is, the feat of the Dutch government. Here is a pretty itrong brick for!: called rrerdcwn, with a garriion of about 300 men. In 1763, being in the road on board of a Dutch ihip (after having loit the veTel I had commanded, the Bonnetta ketch, on 4 iome Page 73 73 iome rocks near to and in GSht of the ifland Sakljler "h though not permitted to go on ihore at Macagrrr, I could perceive many guns mounted on the nralls of the fort, from the road. The fort was i8id to be a iquare of about 400 feet, with 4 baitions : the road is well heltered from any itvell, by fmall iflands and hoals that lie off it. One ifland particularly, lies off the SW part f Ce(ebes, called Pulo Kaka, about rg miles long, with three i`malliflands to iea- ward of it. There is a jetty like the pier at Norfh Yhrmourb, built out from the town, to facilitate the landing of goods. The Dutch captain and officers were very ihy of giving me any information. In the road lay a Chineie junk of aout 600 tons. Here they catch immenie quantities of fiih of various kinds. In this divieon of Goa, which extends a good way along the WSW and S coait of the ifland, the Dutch have on the S coaft two wooden forts, where I have been in I73 called Bulo Combo, and Bantyn, with a garrirotl of 50 men in each, But, notwihitand- ing r·epeated attempts from Macnghr, with many European and coun try troops, I have heard from feveral, that the Dutch have never been able to get porfenion of the ifland Yampang Jasa, lying at the mouth of the river Jan-pcrndan, ibuth of MacaDarr fo that Goa is almoit independent of the Dutch. The King of Gna was for- merly of moit conGderation on Celrbes; and though SreatlJi fallen fi·om his former coniecluence, he is till the mot poYerful prince in the ifland, and the Dutch command but little beyond thefort of Nacor (except Bp0 Contbo and Bontys) in the GOQ diitriA, The government ofGoa is monarchical; the king is called K;?- tunng, ibmetinles RnjLz Goa, Navaretre calls him Smbnnco ; and his " Snlnyel· contains about 60,000 inhabitants. I travelled acrois it in 1763, accompanied hy Mynhcer JacoS Bekkiibaker, the rerdent: he kindly came by Mr. SiIlc)air's order (f;"vernor of Macnar), who honoured 1 with a letter, at the iartle tin:e, to the finall de- `crt iandy ifland on which I was cait away. We were carried by nlen up the very Aeep hills (that run along the middle of the ifland from N to S), on Lanboo chairs made on the il'ot· and Dartly on horreback on the flat lands. The natives drink much of a liquor called Sgnire, drawn from the palm tree: they burn tallow from the tallow tree, as in China, to give light. M 1, empire Page 74 t 74·) empire formerly extended, not only overthe wholeifland Celi4es, but alCo over everal adjacent iflands, before the PortuSuee dou- - bled the Cape of Good Hope, The next diitria is Bony, or Pony; lying eaCt of Gorz, and on the weit coait of the great gulf or Sezun, entirely under the influence of the Dutch, who endeavour, but in vain, to make it fuPerior to Goa; Through Bony runs CSinrana river, after coming from the. ktrrrjoo country. Bony, by the command of the river Ch;nrnna, locks.up as it were all accei- to Zarjoo by water: but certain agreements exift between the two itates, convenient to each in pite of the Dutch. Bony is governed by a prince called Pajong. He is eleAed for life by ie·tfe Or·acayar, a fixed number, which may be kept up by the Pajoiyy·but not increared)' from the Dyons (certain freeholders) ; and when an eleEtor dies, a new eletor is appointed by the Pajong, his heir not iucceeding. The Dutch always iupport Bony againit bjoo, and have made the pnjong almoit independent; yet the Pqjong is often reitrained by-a fort of parliament, eleted by the freeholders: it conGits of Qoo members, 200 of which are called Maraa, _Ioo are called Pa- bjcl5arro, and Ioo are called alnrang. But of this I never learnt a diitinA account; and I mention it only as a hint for future travel- lers. And if iich a mixed government does eiit, it is natural to think the Dutch would endeavour to depreis iuch liberal notions, which, in the end, would i itrongly aiet their own power and influence. The third divifion of Ccle6es is mgioo, Warjon, or.uadjoo i it is go- Yerned ali`o by an eletive prince, called Aramarooa. He Is eleAed for life by the four nobles of the higheit rank, called Ornn cayo Batrca bazar (nobles of the great flag), from the body of an inferior nobility, called Oran cayo Balta ampai Pzl(a, (nobles of the forty flags), there being forty in number; and when eleted, if he ihould igy, "Iam Page 75 ( 75 ) r' I am poor," which may be the caie, the reply made to him (by the nobleman who prefids at the eleAion) is, JYarjqg 6erennee, tbrjoo caio, arjoo qungo ; which fignifics, Warjoo is brave, rich, and powerful: intimating, no doubt, he ihall want for nothing. Ht then accepts of the government. Befides the fdur high and the forty inferior nobles, there is ftill a kind of freeholders called Dyons, as in Bog. The Aramarooa can only keep up the number of the four high, and forty inferior nobility, when they are, by want of heirs, extina; but he cannot increa- the number. In Itarjooonly the nobility is hereditary. The fourth divifion of Celebes is Sopin, where there are very high IYlountains, pear the middle of the ifland, The fifth is Selindrim, NW of Sopin. The Gxth is Mandar, on the 7 and IYW coait of the ifland, under a kind· of republican government: here they ma- nufature much cloth (cambbysr. The Ijutch are fettled in etreral parts of the Mandar dominions, and get from thence much gold;- yet they, and the people of Yarjqo in gkneral, have not ofnly pre- ferved their freedom againit the Dutch, but have (the Warjaos erpecially) emigrated from their own country, and made fettlements at Rhio, fituated near the ea[t entrance of the Strait of M/z(acca, at Samdowa, an ifland eait of Java, and at Png"N-, on the eait coait of the great iflandl Borneo. They always confider their colonies aS eman- cipated from the mother country, as Goon as they are able to defend themiklves. Of a revolution that happened at Pait-, on Bortieo, in I772 by a EugSeG colony depofing the native. Mala king,with great civility and good manners, more will be iaid; and 1 never Beard that Warjoo (from whtnce the coldny as iettled) in the leait' interfered. So, hiitorp tells us, the Grees.interfered but little- with their colpnies in the ifland Sicily, and eliewhere. Of theie fix diviGbns of the ifland CelebeJ, Sopin and Sel;ndrirn, be- ing inland,.are of iinall conrIderation, compared with the other four; get Soisin, it is iaid, can muller many fightingmen. Goa, Bony, -rjua, and Mandnr are much rpoken of in hiltory - They had, + ·See Harris's CdleRionP of Voages,. mslnpi Page 76 76 many bloody wars with the Dutch, not only in former days, but as late as the year I780, as I learnt from Captain James Scott, of edi. ·The Buggeies of Goa, on ibme mifunderitanding, attacked the Dutch fort Rorerdam at Macagar, but were beat off with great loij: of men: they aflred leave to bury the dead, which mas refuied. This cauikd much fickneis among the Dutch of MacnLOkr at the time. The ]Eiuge;efiks in general are a high-Epirited people; they will not bear ill urage ". They are ali`o great merchants: their proms, called Pulo Condore, formerly an Engliai fettlement in the ChineCe Ieas, was cut off by the Macaifar oi Buggers garrifon, about the year r703, and a few rurvivors made their ercape in a boat. The garrifon had erved their itipulated time; yet the governor, Mr. Katch- pole, would keep them againit their will for a longer period. The editor Gays, the Ma- caO-lrs are a brave, induitrious, and faithful people; but, if provoked, daring and revenge- iul. Harris, vol. i. p. 855· MonTeur Forbin, in the year r685, at Banrak in Slam, had orders from Mr. Conitance, who was his ienior in command, to prevent all Siameie from pafling his fort. There came down the river a Macaidr prow (galerP), which was itopped by tile chain h4r. Forbin had thrown acrofs. The Buggers captain told Mr. Forbin he had no Siamere onboard; that his crew were Macaffars, returning to their own country. On which, Mr. Forbin raid, yhen that was verified, he fhould have liberty to pars ; but, in the mean while, deGred him to land his men, " que la cour de Siam n'et·rien a me reprocher," raid Mr. Forbin. The captain, without hefitation, aniwered,'( agree to that; but they muit land with their arms." UWhat i " raid Mr. Forhin, rmiling, "are we at war then i" L' No," anitvered the Buggers, (( but the crefs that I wear by my iide is confidered ro much a mark of honour by our nation, that we cannot part with it without infamy." This reaion appearing to R/lr. Forbin unanrwerable, he rays, " Je m'y rendis, ne comptant pas qu'une arme qui me paroifioit fi mipriiable, rut aun; dangercure que je I'iprouvai bientit aprils." Mr. Forbin unfortunately, afterwards, ifiued orders to hjs troops, commanded by a PortugueTe whom he had made major, to dif- arm fix Macafi:drs. The Portrlgueie frightened raid, L' Monfieur, je vous demande pardon; mais ce que vous proporez n'elt pas fallble; vous ne connoiiIi·z pas cette natioI1 comme moi: je iuis enfant des Indes : Croyez-moi, ces fortes d'hommes font iitpre- nables; et ii fut jes tuer pour s'en rendre maitre. Je vous dis bien plus, c'eit que Ti vous fites mine de vouloir arrCrer ce capitaine qui elt dans le pavilion, lui ce peu d'hommes c)ui I'accompagnent nous tueront tous fans qu'il en ichappe un Teul." Mr. Forbi!l goes on. (1 Je ne fis pas tout le cas que je devois de l'avis clue ce Fortugsis me donnoit, d perfiitant dans mon projet, dent I'exCcution me paroi(roit afiez facile, Allez, lui repartis- je, portez mes ordres, tels que vous les avez reFus. Je fuis periuadt, qu'avant que de ie faire Page 77 77 called paduaknn (fee the figure), go as far weit as Atceen,.Salengorc, and ueda, being very numerous, where in 1763 they took many Chulia fhips. I never learnt truly how the affair was, but the gen- tie Indoitaner of Porra Nouo, vhere the Chulias of uedLa generally fit out, reiifted but faintly the bold BuE;gei. They deCerve the charater faire tuer, ils ypenleront plus d'une fois. Le major s'en alla fort trifte, me conti- nuat ies bons avis, me dir en partant, " Mon Dieu, Monfieur, prenez bien garde $ ce clue vous faites; ils vous tueront infailliblement: crsyez ce que j'ai l'holmeur de vous dire ; c'eit pour voue bien." tr Le zle de cet officier me fitentrer en confidiration: pour ne rien hazarder, je fis monter to ioldats Siamois dans la gorge du baftion, dir dequels itoient armis de lances, 8r dir autres de fuGls. Je fis tirer le rideau du pavilion, m'itant avanci vers I'entre, j'ordonnois i un Mandarin d'aller, de ma part, dire au capitaine, que j'e'tois bien mor- tifii de l'ordre que j'avois de I'arriter: mais qu'il iecevroit de moi route forte de bone traitemefls. (( Ce pauvre Mandarin, qui me iervoit d'interprete, m'obtit; au premier mot qu'il pro- nonFa, ces fix Macaffdrs ayant jetti leur bonnet ri terre, mirent le crit i la main, s'Clan- Cant comme des dCmons, tu2rent dans un inftant I'interprete iix autres Mandarins qui toient dans le pavilion. Voyant ce carnage, je me retirai vers mes foldats, qui Etoient arms. Je fautai fur la lance d'un d'entr'eux, je criai aux autres de tirer." After this the Macafiars got to their galley, and Cet it on fire ; they then fet fire to a convent of Tellopys, and killed all the monks: 366 Siameie and feveral French were killed, and r? Macaffars only, in this deiperate buGnefs.--MCmoires du Comte de Fqrbin, amiral de Slam du nom d'Opra fac D'Eiom Cram, chef d'eicadre des arm4es navales de ia Majefti, che- ualier de l'ordre militaire de St. Louis, tom. i. Amaerdam, I730. When the Count d'Eitaing took Bencoolm in I764 where I unfortunately was, having been a freighter on board the ihip Denham, that was burnt with all my propetty, ire had 1 proof of the deCperate fpirit of Buggeiies. After the EnglifU had been ient Co Bclra·via, in the frigate Expedition, fome BuggeCs prows arrived and traded with the Malays. What gave offence, I cannot tell ; but the Count, afraid of an inCurretion amongit the Buggeifes, 2 or 30 in number, he having kept prifoner in Fort Msrlbro' the Englim Buggefs captain, nyon 1Macoolay, who was a Buggeis chieftain, and for whom his nation had a great regard and rerpet; to prevent this, the Count invited reveral to the fort, and when three had en- tered, the wicket was ihut upon them: in attempting to diiarm them; they mangamoed, that is, run a muck: they drew their creffes, killed one or two Frenchmen, wounded others, and, at lait, iuffered themfelves for Fupporting their point of honour. The Coune d' ET- taing behaved with great civility and politeneis to his Engliih priioners, diftributing a imaJ tock of provirrons with great impartiality: and, notwithitanding what has been faid of the Count, the Engliih had Mr. Douglas, Governor of Gambroon, exchanged in his place, before Page 78 78 charaAer given of Malays in general, by MonGeur Poivre, in his Travels of a I-'hiloCopher, " fond of adventures, emigl-ation, and L' capable of undertaking the moft dangerous enterprizes." The mord BugSei- has become amongit Europeans conionant to ibldier, in the caft of ndia, as ·fepoy is in the weit. The Dutch, in their quarrels with the Buggeflks, have always pa3red off one pbweraSainit another, and have!ong loft all confidence he took Fovt Marlbro'. A French ierjeant having got poeCion of a aave boy belonging to me, I applied to the Count, who ordered me immediate reftitution; and mewed me equal favour, particularly in letting me go early to Batavin in a Malay prow. Gatnbroan was taken by Captain Ceiar, of the ihip Condi of 50 guns, and the fri*g-ate Expedition. Having raid Ib much of the del`perate dipoGtion of the Buggeffes, I cannot help raying omethin,o of the temper of Malays in general. If an European mip is pafiing the Strait of MalcEa, or any of thole itraits in its neighbourhood, it is natural, if they fee Malay prows, to fend a boat towards them, to deiire them to come on board, to get news, c. This ought: never to be done by force; Malays hare no other idea, when compulfion is ured, but that it is the prelude to flavery or death ; and inany fatal confequences have followed from attempts of this nature, when nothing hoitile was intended on either fide. If a boat fent on illch bu- f;nefs be ordered to lie-to at a imall diitance, and talk to the Malays, to diiarm their tirft apprehenfion, fifty to one but they will then go on board voluntarily, efpecially if it is an Englik boat that calls them. Z mentionpd in a note in page 73, that I was call away in I63, on a Tmall iRand eaR of SalaJer, in the Bonnetta ketch. There was no frefh water on the Tmall iandy inand, and Z went to an adjacent inand to iearch for fome, but found a verylittle in holes of the rocks, enough only to quench our thirit. Returning to my companions next day, the 2jd Fe- bruary, I raw two prows, one failing away from the other, which was left with the fail flap- ping againit the mall. It itruck me, as I raw nobody, that me was dererted: and I cheered up the crew (Lafcars only), to pull itrong, to take pollkflion of what I thought was aban- doned. When within about three times the length of my own boat of the prow, about ten Malays appeared, with lances in their hands, from under the prow's thatched roof, where they had lain in ambuicade. I immediately called out to them, JRngang iaAut (Do not be afraid), held water with the oars ; yet the boathad fuch freih way, that her item went againft the prow in a perpendicular direaion,·but did not itrike hard. I initantly quitted the tiller, and, crofling the thafts,went on ·board, and took the Noqurdh by the hand, ordering my bot immediately to lie off: his hand trembled, which pleaCed me much, as it aflirred me he was afraid. I roon periuaded him I was Englilh. After aflring for Come rice and water, they iid they would iupply me ; but did not incline my boat mould come and fetch it. I got a jar of water and a bag of rice, which was carried on board of my boat by their canoe. They`had got a good many piece goods from the wreck. Mynheer Jacob Bekkiaker came roon after very kindiyo my relief, as has been raid. iith Page 79 79 ·with the natives in general. They keep what they poleis on Cele- es chiefly on account of its being the weit frontier to the Spice Iflands, and feem afraid of extending their commerce fo much as they might, for fear of innovation of ientiment among the natives; or, rather, wiih to difcourage their commercial exertions, which formerly were very confiderable. There are many other entrances to the Spice Iflands, berdes Salaier Sfmit (the Buggeroons) where the Dutch generally have cruiCers, and the Buggefies often find their way there in iPite of their vigilance. I have ·Teen, 25 years ago, Ig Prows at a time, at Bencaoen, loaded with a mixt cargo of ipices, wax, caffia, Candle wood, dol- Sars, and the cloths of Ce;lebes called cambays. The Dutch have alib the addres to make the places held by them on Celebes, not only maintain themielves, but produce a clear profit, from trade and tribute, in gold, max, rice, iago, flaves ", c. The iupreme government of Balauia lupplis the different iettle- ments with the cloths of IndoJian, at 33; advance on the prime coil. whatever theie cloths fell for· more is the prifit of their iervants: they alCo fell a great deal of Bengal opium, Porto-novo blue and white cloth, fine Bengal coiraes and hummums, and much iron, iteel, and cutlery as has been aid. The inhabitants of Cclebes are very indultrious, weaving a deal of cotton cloth, generally cambays, which they export to all Malay countries; it is red chequered and mixed with blue; they alib make beautiful Glk belts, in which they fix their cren-s. On the coaCe of Coromandel they make a cloth in imitatiin of cambays, not ib well wove, but of brighter colours, called thea4pw (a red colour). The Buggeifes alo often import cotton from the ifland BalY, both raw and pun into yam. At Baly they do not underitand packing cotton, as at Bombay, but fluff it into baflrets. + It is inconceivable to an European the number of dsmeitic flaves the Dutch have at B;7tavia, Macafiars, Javans, Nias, c. iomething like what we read of old Ratlpr: they all go wonderfully neac and clean, and many learn mechanical trades, the NilE efpeially. N The Page 80 80 The Buggeib catnbay, though only one garment, which ihrowds from head to heel when the wearer fleeps, is often fold from 6 to Io Spanilh dollars a piece: iome are fine as cambric very ftrong wove, but dullcoloured: being chequered, it much refembles tar- tan, and is often wore like a iih gathered up on one ihoulder over a tight waiitcoat, and breeches that reach within a ipan of the knee. Altogether a Buggefs reiembles much a Scotch highlander, when the ends of the plaid are ewed together; his arms are iword, lance, dagger;durk) and target, ibmetimes a muijuet and bayonet, or blunderbuis, initead of the lance; but then ·he is attended by a lad, who, himielf armed, carries ieveral lances. Their exportation to Bencoolren, of cambays, is fuch that they have been obliged, lately, to lay a heavy duty on that article, as it inter- fered with our own importations from Indfan, and of cambays and lungys fromBetlga The BuggeiTes alb manufature, from the inner bark of a imali tree, a kind of paper, in whidh they wrap their fine cambays; they often dye this paper of various colours, and export much of it even to n/fanilla, and various other places: it reiembles the Otaheit clothing. They build theirpauakans (which in general we call prows at Bencoolen) ver tight, by dowling the planks together, as coopers do the parts that form the head of a calk, and patting the bark of a certain tree between, which iijvells, and then fit timbers to the planks, as at Bomba;v, but do not rabbet las it is called) the planks, as at Bom6ay. In Europe we build reverrely; we ret up the timbers firit, and fit the planks to them afterwards; the larSeit never ex- ceeds fifty tons; they are-bigotted. to old models and fixtures in fitting their veirels. The paduakans have their bow lowelecl or cut jown in a very awkward manner; a bulk head is raiied a.gpod way abaft the item, to keep off the ika, and the fore part is fo low as to be often under water; they are unfit to encounter a gale of wind, not being decked. '(See the figure). They Page 81 sI ) They make fire-arms, but cannot make gun locks ; they alib cait Fmall brais guns, which they call rantakka, and are curious in filla- gree work, both in gold and iilver: the larger rantakkais about 6 feet long, and carries a half pound ball, like RiIaral Sere's amu- ette. They get many rantakkas from Borneo proper, where they are expert in making them. At a place called Ky/y or Kyela, north of Macagar, and in the Mandar diviron, there is faid to ie a fpacious harbour; there are alio iaid to be Come hills free from wood, and covered with grais, near the harbour, and many ieep are bred there: this is un'uiual in a Malay country, where trees in general have poifeRion of the Coil, and iheep are therefore univeriklly icarce. Goats much more plenty, There are two or three harbours on the eait coait of Ceibes, and .t·cvo on the north coait, Koandang and Amoran, as I am told;;but I never was in any place but Macaghr Road, Bont/vn, and Btlocombo, where there are no harbours. The Malays write their language in the Arabic charaEter fxot right to left. The Buggeie write their language in a charaCter peculiar to themiielves, ibmething like the Rejang and Batta on Szmara, as we do from left to right, of which Mr. Mariiien has given a Cyecimen Y. Navarette, who virted Macagbr in I650, ikys they had a library ofuropean books. I take them to he a " The accompan)ting map of my voyage in the Tartar Galle); to New Guinra, was wrote upon by Noquedah Inankee;'which writing I rent home to 1Mr;Dalrymple, who was io good as to get it engraved on the old'plate: it ihews how far their yvriting reembles the Rejang and Ratta. The Batta a being ihaped,iike our numeral 6 inverted and placed horizontally, is clearly the letter lawith the Bupgelks, as appears in`thd iecond letter that exprefes Cr(Pc Arcgunin in the raid map: there are alTo other Arong reremblances; The Rejang Na like the buggefs a or the Roman or Greek 141, occars.frequently, par- dcLllarly in the iecond letter that expreiCes the ifland ·Ceratn. Neither Greeks nor Ro- mans, furely, knew any thing of the ifland Cebcs, but the letter Mmay have travelled. Their vowels are in the Came order as ours, a, e, i, 4 u, ung. Their numerals I have un- fortunateiy loR; but remember that they had iome reiemblance to the PerCan. t Enenenos algunas mapas y libros nueftros, querdava la libraria de iu padre que era famofa. Tratados hiRoriccbs, ethicos y religioros de Clina. Wrote by Fran, Dom, Fer- nandez Navarettc. Trat. 6, caput 8, ieCt. 2, p, gzq; Madr;d, 1676, N2 very Page 82 82 very ancient EseopIe, but whole hiitory is loft; at leat the many Buggefles I have converCed with ikemed all to be of that opinion, and told me many ftories· of a former great king, called Rajnh Lozcf, (king of the iea) who uiurped the throne of Goa. He was admi- ral of his iovereign's iea forces, and iucceeded in dethroning his malter about 200 years ago. The BugSeiTes qn the iea coait uni- verCalEy fpeak the Malay tongue, and they have many Malay phraies in their language, even whole ientences. They are fond of ika charts, I have given many to certain Ni- puedas (commanders of Prows) for which they were very grateful, and often wrote names of places in their own language, which I read to them on the charts; and they were always very inquifitive about Europe, and Neee I'elinga (Indoitan). ·Their Prows have not yet crofied the bay of Bengal, whatever they may do hereafter, whilft, doubtlefs, Arabian ihips from the Gulphs found their way to Celebes, as well as to amfoo Cthe city of Arabian tradersX which was, perhaps, Canton, long before the pairage round the Cape was diCcovered; and in thofe days, before Dutch opprellion, the BuggeiTes certainly traded largely to moit of the eaitern iflands in their owb manufaEtures, and held many of them in i`ubjeEtiou. The Dutch made peace with the BuggeiTes in r66T, on condition they ikould expel all the Portuguefe. The laws of the inhabitants of Celebcs are adminiftered accard- ing to old cuitoms handed down from their anceitors, and retained in the memory of their old men (Oran Iue), and many are com- mitted to writing in Goa, Warjozc, Bony, and Mcmdar, and conGder- ed as the law of the land ; in dubious cafes they refer to the Koran, if applicable. Their religion is Mahornetan, with this laudable cuitom, if a man marries his equal, he takes but one wife; if below him, he may take four". I have been told by ieveralBuggeIes, that they r In the ifland Sumatra the common law is alib retained in the memories of the elders of Page 83 83 aheyi`ail in theil- Paduakans to the northern parts of New-Halland, pofiibly Carpenfaria Bay, to gather Svallov (Biche de mer), which they fell to the annual China Junk at Macag;rr; they igy alio, gold is to be got there. I make no doubt but that our i-ttlements i·n New-Hoand will foon be viilted by BuSgees, when the Enlh extend from port JacSon further north into-a warm climate. When i was at Pair in the year r772, on my way to Ba/Qmban- gan with John Herber, Ei`q. we found it a place of great trade, with two fathoms water on the muddy bar of a river which ·led up to the tovn forty-five miles ; the tide running a good n·ay up above the town, which conGfred of;ibout 300 wooden houCes on the north Gde of the river, moitly inhabited by BuggeCies, all of them merchants. The iultan, a Malay Prince, had his houie and wooden fort on the fouth iide, a very little way from the river. Whilit the Hen. Company's ihip Britannia lay about 15 miles off the river's mouth, in fix fathoms muddy ground, Mr. Herbert, and moit of the gentlemen who came with him from Bencoolen, civil and niilitary, about twelve or fourteen in number, went ug to town. They a·ere received by BuggeiTes and a few king's guards, who by firing of muihuetoons, c. (imallarms) as is their cuitom, thouh in an irregular way, did our Chief what honour they could. We were then lodged, by the king's order, in a decent houfe, on the oppoGte Tde of the river to where he lived in his wooden fort. Next day Mr. Herbert and feveral gentlemen waited on the iultan. On the 5th day after our arrival we were all to dine with th iLltan by invitation. The head-man of the BuggeiTes, whoie name was erowny, and feveral of his nation, mere alii, invited. We accord- ingly repaired to the palace on the day appointed about noon, in hopes of meeting the BuggeiTes, but not one appeared. A long table was`ipread in the European manIler with china, ylates, knives and forks, and benches on each iide were placed for a great number of Dooioons (villages,) but latterly, by the influence of the Engli4, they are in feme places commitced to writing. Ilariden's Sumatra. Page 84 ( I;e bf expeAed Suelts· After waiting a conrderable time, and no Bug- geis, nor even meirage frorn them, appearing, the i`ultan fat down at the head of the table with everal of. his courtiers and relations on his left hand, whilit: Mr. Herbert and the Engliih gentlemen gt on his right hand. The iltan ipoke hut little; a very good dinner was provided, and amongft many diihes of fiih and fowl, there was iome excellent mutton, that, as I was told, came from Kly, on the oppofite coait of Ce/ebe. At dinner, we Chrii- tians drank wine which Mr.' Herbert had provided; the fultan and rulalays drank iherbet, and iome of them a very little wine. At fix o'clock, after drinking tea and coffee, we took leave, each forming his own conjeture. Next day we heard there was a miiunderitanding between the fultan and the BuggeiTes about the colletion of port duties, the latter iniilting on what for many years they had enjoyed, and for which they had always defended the freedom of the port from Dutch influence. At this time we had landed many bales of long 'cloth white and blue, iron and lead, from the Britannia, which Mr. dwerd CLles, the appointed refident, was diipofing of. Mr. Herbert, however, took the alarm, and went on board the Britannia, at the fame time ient me to reconnoitre the little Paternoters, a gltoup of r3 mall aands already mentioned. I was aboui four days gone,`and on myretun found that thre days after hlr. Herbert went on board the Britannia, rerowy, a Bug- geis orancayo, and his men had iilrrounded the iultan's fort, and forced him to leave Pdgir, and retire to another river about roo miles fouth of it. He was allowed to take with him all his pro- perty without the leait reitraint. I was next day ient on ihore by Mr. Herbert to bring off the Company's goods. I found the great- eft tranquillity in the place, as if nothing had happened, notwith- ianding the recent revolution. I'erozoay hehaved with the greateit civility to Mr. Goles and' my- i`elf, and lamented our intended departure. Mr. Goles, after iknd- ing Page 85 85 ing off the Company's goods, embarked on the Britannia, by Mr. Herbert'spoGtive order, though much againit his own opinion and wiihes, as at this very time a number of Buggei-s Prows enter- ed the river loaded with rich cctr;goes, and we had purc$afed a good deal of opium of Capt. Clements, from Bengal, of which theie Prows were in great want. Pagir, as a fatory, would certainly have been very advantageous to the Company, its Gtuation being very centrical; and, as I was only a i-eQator in this buGnes, I muit own,:in my opinion, Mr. Goles was right, and Mr. Herbert was r·dfher itnpaient amd irriiolute. The revolution bein'g quietly 'br;dught ·about without bloodihed, and therebeing not the-leait danger of another, was the moment for us to fix, under the pro- tetion of the BuggeiTes, and without any charge of guard and garriibn, quietly trade as in China (paying only a moderate duty of five per cent, but no port duty or meaiurement whateveli as in China), in a plentiful country of great reibrt. From Pa- the Britannia tvent to Sooloo, where opium is not;n great demand, Celebcs being its great mart. From Soo/oe, the Bri- tannia v9ent to bXarnbEngair, th·i: capture of which place by the Soo(oos, under a cirtain iturdy baron called Drattoo firetg, is related in my voyage to New Gzirea, in February I775· I have thought proper to mention the above incident at Pagir, as it fhews Comething of the cha·aAer of the BuggeiTes. They are by far men of the moit honour of any of the Malay cait I ever met with, are really a diitinA people, and have ibmething free and dignified in their manner fuper·ior to other Malays'. After the Count d'Eitaing deltroyed and abandoned.Forr Illarlbro: in r760, Jse The Macabrs and Bugs people who cotne annually to trade It Sumal·6, Ire looked upon by the inhabitants as their fuperiors in manlers; the Malays affeA to copy their Et)le;bf dreCs, and frequent allufiohs to their featsand actiev9ments -are made in their rongs. Their reputation for courage, which certainly furpaflPs that of all others in the eaitern ieas, acquires them this flattering diitinEtion; they allb derive part of the reipea mewed to them, from the richneis of the cargoes they import, and the rpirit with which they ipendtbeproduce. MarCden's Sumatra, p. IT2. 4 many Page 86 86 many Buggei`s Pron·s came there to trade. I fold them many cheits u3f ·opium for dollars and PeQn rupees, imported by the French, no -doubt, from Garnaroon ; and though they were under no reftraiat, they behaved'with great honour and fairneis to me, who was en- tirelyin their power. Fort 2Marro was reiettled ibme months after- wads by Capt. Vincent, of the Oiterly, who was Pucceeded by Mr. Audly from Madras. In the above-mentioned voyage, page 228, I obferved, that Mal- falla, a relation · of the iultan of Mndano, brought 70 flaves from ·Cele6es. One of them, a very decent BugF;eis, named Seloppo, told me the Dutch get gold from the north coait of that ifland, includ- ng Maaado, to a great amount. onto(ee, rather on the NW coait under Mandar 300 5,000 5,000 ndag, under Mdndctr, where are good I 3,000 horiks, and off which are many iinall iflands, Bolang Iam Kydeepan 200 AmoraM, where is much rice and a harbour I,ooo Bo(ong, producing wax, birds neits, and much rice 5,000 300 200 Prod uce s tayels of a dollar and a half weight,yearly, Bole, lying eait Ibntolee, Bolimnn Koandag, under Mdndctr, where are good Manado and Gorantellze 5,000 Tayels 24,So0, which at 5% the tayel is, pounds iterling IzLooo. The Dutch Sarriibn their different pdii`eflions on this ifland, with about 8 or goo Eu- ,royeans, and country troops. The Dutch gain much longit the hilShlanders, amOntit LlC LIILLII :chiklren eEpecially), never returns. on their copper money, which going and often worn as ornament (by eturns. About the year '770, the Dutch Page 87 si Dutch obliged the inhabitants of J,imb(jton to build a fort: ear Koandang, 500 feet Ijuare; the walls 3 fathom high. Setoppo could have no view in deceiving me in this account.--TThe poor mall was ill at the time he gave it me, I i'aall now deicribe the Sre;it gulf (Sezetra) from the information of Il;orluenl,b IjlanIe, who has already been mentioned. I prei`ented the hueb with a iEt of the charts· (Patd) and views of land (Iboin) of my 2Veze, Gzlinen voyage; on each of which he wrote name and explanation in theBuSSeCs language, and was much gratified with the Dreient. rrra Having paired the itrait betnreen Celebes and Snlnyer, called the BugSeroons, keep on in a direAion NE by N about r3o miles, and you will find, near the well coait of the Sezea, a iinall ifland called Baloonroo: it is viiible a or to leagues· off, and has on its eait end feme I-ocky iflots; they mull be left- on the left hand going north. Further on, about a day's fail, which I fix at 60 miles, is the mouth of the river Cinrana I this river takes its rife · in the nrjoo countrp, and paires through Bony; the capital of nrhich is called IbGiro, and lies a day's journey by mater from the mouth of the river; it has a good muddy bar, pairable by large ihips, and navigable a good way ul'· It has everal mouths; and there are many tonrns on its banks, as has been iaid in both the diviGons of sony and arjoo,- where a great trade is caried on in gold, rice, i`ago, caira, tortoiie-mell,, ,pearls, iwallo agal-aga Src. c, The anchorage is good off the river's mouth. Half a day's fail further N along the weit coait of the BuggeTs Bay or Srwn, is the river PceneekEe, not very conGderable. Further on are two places called Afiolinnn and Iklludopin on the id well coafc; they are pretty vell inhabited. Continuing· itill N, you come to the river St·zvn, not very conrderablc; then to the river ·Loo, famous for heat buSlding: then you come to Mankakoo, where there is gold and much iaSo very cheap; the· have alio cafiia and i`eed pearl· O Being Page 88 ss Being now come to·Yhe bottorn of the BzlggeSs BnY, the ago- tree abounds very much; and in many parts of the Sewa there - are ipots of foul ground on which they fim for iivallo·i·, which they generally carry to MacaiTr, to fell to the China Junk, On the eait Gde of the Seuta the country is not io well inha- bited as on the nleit Tide; the S1S point of the SL·zea is called Pa- jz/ngan: here is a cluiler of iflands, rather iinall, with good an- -ihorage amongit them, Having left the Bcli·; you come to the high mountains of Cabann, and the inand Bnoton, where lives a prince independent of any BuSges power, but, I believe, under :Dutch influee. This Noquednh InanKee had navie;rited a gocd deal about Cclt·Ges and the adjacent iflands: he told r-r7e the Gentoos, on the ifland Bal'Lv, worihip ikven gods, named in general Dewa; or rather one SOd, to whom they give ikvendifferent attributes; that there are feveral ylacs well inhabited nreit of Cnrrztg-Alren2 on that ifland, named Plldzng·, CrfEmba, and likbc7ng, which lait has a har- bour. The high peak of nrllu, beal-in:o; N by T: fi-otn CLzmng-AOL;le road, I called Agong, and the high peak of Lomboc, Xnrzgauny. I alCo learned from him, that that part of Loml)oc oppofite to BnY is called SaLOb, where is the road of r(anjong Caran,rr (rocky point), into ihich you run over a rocky entrance, vith 6 fathoms depth for zoo yards. In the SE cornel· of this road is a harbour called rZn,.with 7 and 8 fathoms muddy ground, hour, le alCo told me, that on the NW part of Lomboc is a harbour called Kombt. I conGder all this informtion about njonS· ·Carang road, ring and Kornbnng harbours, as good hints, If illips -go this way, it is iure;ly worth while to iknd boats to reconnoitre ze truth. I can never believe Irrankee wanted to deceive; but the ideas of Malays in general (accuitomcd to mall veifels) and ours are differet with repet to harbours: he called Lomboc Srrai knllat Bnnco-bnnco, which means Jirlpool Srrcrir. Banco is a Railv Banco is a Rally word, Page 89 sg TDTd) Klri a Malay ord, GSnifying itrait: and here I cannot he:p mentioning the comfortable and cheap refreihment that is to be had at Cnrnng LTen (uolc,rr6 Stone): fee Dalrymple's maps; amongit which is a viev of Ballp Peak (Aong). Bullocks 3 dollars a-head, hogs a dollar; ducks It for a dollar, fowls 20; rice ver): cheap; and the great convenience of watering by theil· country canoes, that will carry on board 20 or 30 Caag calks for a dollar, two calks at a time. Bring the Peak :I-n,,\ hT h 1;\ jVIIC/ I* Vr U) Oll\L C\LIIIVI 1I1 IO fathomi-nd and mud, a mile from ihore, entirely out of the· tide. The canoes So into a iinall river, and get excellent water, The climate of Cele6es, already ijloken of, al'io the animals; may be conGder-ed as much the fame as thoi`e of Sutnatm, and the former as much diverGfied; of which Mr. Marfden gives a juit account. InanEee confirmed to me the acount i have given in my Voyage to Ne- Guinen, of the Genloos on Lotnboc having large tanks on the hills for \s·atel·ing the rice-grounds during dry ·cr·eather;. The gold of Celebes is generally Set, as on Slcnrnirn, from the beds of rivers and torrents; and there are many iprings jfli7ing from crevices of rocks that bring ibme little Sold along 7,ith the water, which, running through a veflP1 bottomed nrjth iknd, leares its. treaiure behind. At Ptllo Slitko, called Salida in ibme maps, a Dutch ikttlerrrent in Sirmasm, I remember, in 1758,.cloie by the iea Gde, a iinall Jpring of frefh water running from a crevice of the rock equal to what iffues from an ordinary tea-urn;. it ran into a imall cafk, about the Gze of a butter firkin: iixne years aft;el-wards the calk alas full of nd and gravel. The ReGdent, Mynheer Van-Kem- pen, in I7?I, took it into his head to wai this,oravel; for which purpoie a canoe, lying cloi`e to the Epring, preientect itrclf as very convenient: he got from a firkin full of ihnd and gravel as much : gold as made his lady a fizeable t·in 01 2. which I iaw on her fiuLer, Some Page 90 90 Some rivers are famous for giving gold of a high touch; bthers give pale gold, of a low touch--Mas nzoodo. The attas of Sumatra rake tanks, well floored with planks, and place them near a brook or torrent; the tanks having gathered much iediment, they turn in a buffalo,, which being driven a good deal up and down amongit the wet earth, the gold iubGdes; they then throw off the upper earth, and find more or leEs gold at the bottom, according to their good fortune. A Treatise on the Monsoons in East-India. Page 91 A T R E A T; I: S E ON THE M O N S O CT N S Crr EAST I J DIA. IRST PRINTED IN I783 bWD DDIIJSED TO LAWRENCE S 'L'L L I V A N, ESQL Page 92 Introduction. Page 93 P J T R O D: U C T I O i. NOTWITHTANDrNe the remarks, rules, and obfervations, already publilhed concerning the navigation from Europe to and from India, alioin India, which are to be found in the Old Eait-India Pilot, by Thornton; in D'Anville's Neptwine Oriental; alb in Mr. NicholCon's and Philo-Nauticus's judicious remarks; it. were to be wilhed we had more obikrvations upon the iubjeEt. It is only from experience iuch obi-rvations call be made, -Above tmenty-fi\re years praAice in what is called the country trade in India, during which time I made no ]eis than eighteen YoyaSes from Indoitan to the eaitward, enabling me to fay a good deal upon the i`ubjecct, is the I-eaion of the preent Publication, the remarks, rules, and obikrvatians, I find many good rules and ob-rvations in each of the authors already mentioned. The India Pilot errs in ibnae things, though he is right in others. Philo-Nauticus I had thepleaiure of knov- inS Ferfonally in Tnd;a: he as a good merchant, and a ikilful navigator. 1 ihall, with great defe·rence to him, and Mr. Nichole -$bll, r·ePeat a Eod deal of what they Gay, and add illuitratians of my own. I flnall alCo retain what I find in the India Pilot, \Yh.en it is conibnant to i7Y own'obCervation, and do hirn all the juitice I can. His rules for failing to and from Bnravia are, in the main, good; but his deiription of Bencoolen, and the iouth-vet cosit of Sumnzra, is unintelligible. Rnd here I muit obi'erve, th.at, as I ·knocv little of the PerSlan and Red-Sea gulfs in the weit of India, never having been there, I cannot criticife on his account of them, nor of the parts adjacent; as my experience has been moit2y eait of Ceplon. E-Iis ules for failing along the coaft of Coromannel and iCL;y(on, fi·orn accidents, iuch as tllf:`cutting dOwn Of trees, pulling dotvn Page 94 93- down pagodas, building of new ones, c. local changes, muii make his land-marks of little uie at preiPnt; but, n·hen ·ritten, I dare Pay they were good. Pou find in the India Pilot: many fra,rrmcnt, iince more cor- reAly publihed by Mr. Dalrymple; 115nr-k's Brgv oil the coaft of Nize Holland; the dangerous ihoals of St. Brczndon neal- the I;i-el2ch iflands; and li-inidarZa in the iltldtc, by the famOUS '. As I have, beGdes the eighteen country vol;ages ill 1, n7ade four voyages from Europe thither; I hope what I prefume to i`ay concerning the bell track to keep, both going and coming, will not be thought improper; although I am I7erfaaeed there are many more valuable hints than I can give, locketf up in joui·nnls of the flrilful commanders in the Eaft-India el·vice, Mrhich not being collated together, nor properly dif;efted and publiihed, the world is Po far kept from much valuable knowledge on this ijecct. hornfon, in the Eait--India Pilot, Pays you ihould, in crolling the L;ne, or rather in going from the NorilJ ntiimiic to the ibuth, keep within certain limits; which he draws in the chart. I apprehenci this is being too preciie, and may be or' loTs to an inexperienced navigator, who may think he does right, whilft niithin certain rules, though Puffering from calms and unwholeiome rains. 1;50m- ton Pays very judicioufly, " The north-eait and outh-eait trade- tc winds are i`ubjet to alteration; which variablenes is Pometimes cc found a degree or two iboner than in the aforeiaid latitudes." (He might have Paid, three or four degrees, initead of one or two.) (' On the coait of Braxil, the winds often blow ealerly from ' September to March, and to the northward of eait; and from c March to September, it bloweth often between the ealt, ibuth- (( eait, and ibuth-i-uth-eait," This perfecctly agrees with the pa- though little adverted to, as ihall be ihen·n. certain 1;50m- Qf Of the Monsoons in general. Page 95 95 Of tbe MonSoozts in gezeral. T H E word monSeon comes from the Pualay word moogi; which 'iigrnifies ieaion. By many who know little of the Malay tongue, the word mooilz is underftood to mean yeari But this is a miitake; for the word town, exaaly as we pronounce it, iignifies year, mooain, ieai`on; and in the IMalay idiom they fay moogin bc?auat (weit monioon), and tnooin rimer (eait monibon), in ylaces where the different monfoons blow nearly in theie di-recction-s, as at Ba- tavia, Bmcoolen, 17nlacca, and many other places. They alio igy at Yncir, Saoloo, Balambangan, and many other places, TTThere the gite or rtuation of the land or ifland favours the expreirron, by caufing the winds to blow accordingly, moog"tnarrara (north mon- ibon); mogin Sacaran (iouth monioon). I beg leave to call, in the courfe ·of theie remaks, the well-known buth-weit monibon, the Smmgr nronSoan ; and ·the well-known north-eat monioon, the zeinr monSoon. I alio beg leave to call ttie-`north-weit monfoon (well known, but the advanage to be drawn from it little adverted to in Jndia, and of hich ·I ihall have a great deal to i`ay in th·e equel); I iky, I beg leave to call it the middle or croSr monSo, It prevails from the Line to Io deg. iouth latitude; tvhilfl: tle north-eait monoon blows, to the northward of it, in the 2LTortb Indian iea, in the By of Benil, and in the Chilra iEas. It is par- ticularly mentioned by hornton, and extends from the iflnds Seyc/Je or Ma/J as far eait as the coait of rv'e·w Guinea, and, I believe, through brres's Elldeavour'r S·nii between IVeze, Gti?a and Neze Nbnd, into the but4 Sen, P Of "Of the Causes of the Monsoons in India, their Analogy to what we find in the Atlantic, and how they coincide with, or oppose, the Trade Winds." Page 96 Of Ibe CadL'es of ri5e Moons ;n India ; Ibeir Analogy to zehat zee Fnd: in the Atlnric ; and boze( they coincide ze(itb, or o2lpoSe, the li-ce .T4Tina"s, T HAT the diurnal motion of the ii3n from eait to well is the caulk of the trade winds all over the world, with certain exceptions, owing tothe irYtervention of lands, mountains, c. is a kind of feif-evident propoGtion. Theie winds go their con- tinual round; nothing interrupts in the Atlantic and PacEiic oceans; and in the Indian ocean, wee the ika as open in north as in ibuth Eatitude dI mean within the Tropics), the trade-wind would doubt- kis be found to prevail there aio from the north-eait all the year round, without any revolution fi-om the ibuth-weit; or, in other words, there would be no monbon. In the Pac3fic and Atlantic oceans, but more particularly in the latter, the motion of the fun from north to ibuth has certainly an effeLCt upO" the north-eait and iouth-eait trade-winds.e but the Indian ocean, by which I mean the whole contained between the itpe of Good Eiope to the north-eait; then eait as far as the CIJina ikas 3 an:d then iouth, by Neze Hol2'and, has no exit northward; and is open only by the Philppines and Molzlccas into the SoElth Sea. This ocean being in a manner filut up to the north, is moi sbvioufly the cauie of the return of the clouds and vapours that are driven thither in the i-ummer monibon; theie vapours follom- ing, or,being generated by the iun's approach. So iflands, in hot: countries, gather clouds on their hills towards noon, 7]len the influence of the iin is great, which are again diichargcd, or ient- back towards the ·Ce, when the fun is gone " Let us iippofe the continsnt of EUlr0pb extended from Portzcgal meit to Antexicra; or, in other words, were the Alhnric ihut up to Y And ruch bills are generally clearly to be feen early of a morning, t clouds being ihen iubfided 5 the Page 97 97 the north, that ocean would, I apprehend, be ubjeA to a regular monioon as the mdm ika is: and we mean to ke\v it is not en- tirely without Comething which reiembles a periodical monfoon, Gtuate as it is, open, for aught we know, to the North Pole. The eait promontory of SoItlb America, fituated in a low latitude, projets a little way into the Aflnnric. Here the currents ·Cet northward in the iummer monroon, and outhward in the winter monioon :; fsllowing the ftrrJ. recifely as they do in JZ India. The body of water driven weitard by the trade-mind at north- eait in the Nortb Atntic to the IIZ Ind;es, is itopped by the American continent, and finds an exit in the gulf of Florida. This troncr; cu-rrent Is we'll known; poffibly the ody of water driven by the ibuth-eait trade-rind in the Sozctb Atkmtic contributes its ihare: but, from the gite of the eait promontry of srazi/, and the trending of the coait thence to the weft of iouth towards Cnpe Hotrz, there is the Ereateit reai`on to think the current i-ts ibuthwar·d almoft perpetually; and ei`pecially as the current on the opporte African flnore ikts continually north near the land, from the Cape of Good Hope northward. Of the three great promontories in the iouthern hemiiphere, y,, Dmzcn's in hTezet Hi/cmd, Cnpe of Good Hope in Africa, and Cape Horn in 14lne-ica, that Eeem, by their bleak, torn, and rocky fronts, to have withitood the ibuthern itosns (whilit, poilibly, many thouiktld years ago, low and habitable lands conti_Suous to them have been iubmerSed by the tempeit there are two remarkable phenomena peculiar to the Afrrca and Amercat capes; and of Yhich there is not the leait doubt, as both are verified by expe- rience: tile current iets almoit continually to-the eaward of- ·Cape Horn, and to the rreitward off the Cape of Good Hope. Hov the * Vide Anion's tTo9ge, anil Cook's Voyage in I775· I" the Centurion they had a continued help to the iouthward in winter, along the Bt-ozil coait, This coincides with Tharnton in the hdia Piot, aready quoted. Pt current: Page 98 98 current generally icts off the iouth promontory of New HollncF, we cannot tell, having no experience; therefore I can isy nothing about it. But I think it is reaibnabIe to iuppoie, that the almoit peryetual weiterly wind offC'ape Horn cauies the eaiterly current YC ; and the almoit perpetual iouth-eait trade-wind at the Cape of Good Hope, with the body of water driven meitward by the faid iouth- eait trade-wind, in the Indian ocean, cauies the weiterly current. Theie well-known faEts, I think, juitify us, by analogy, to-con- clude, that the body of water driven before the fouth-eaft trade- wind in the Sozlrh Ailantic, finds exit iouthvard near the foremen- tioned eaft promontor)r of Braz;l ; as, in a parallel cafe, the fame ii-milar diretion or courie of current, in the NorS Arlnic, finds exit through the gulf of Floriu'a, which every body knows. * Vide Anion's Voyage, and the remarkable current on board the Lion of Cad;a, Captain Durloz Guyot, of St. Maloe'l, publifhed in Mr. Dalrymple's account of Halley's Voyage. They were et ro d. 36 m. of long. to the eaitward, in returning round Cape Houn from the Line, in r756, and fell in with a large iaand in lat. 54:50 fouth, and long. 41· : 32 well of Pavis. Of Of the Middle Cross Winter Monsoon. Page 99 ( ss I Of the Middle Crsfs ltter notl50n. 7VE have already aicribed the caufe of trle north-eaif. mo- foon to a kind of revolution in the atmoiphere, from where the mountains of C1Sina and lartary, of Cber, of Peg rtp- doJian, c. being overcharged with vapours by the approach of the fun ill iummer, noy, at his withdrawing fonth in winter, dii- charge the accumulated load, iometimes from a north, iometimes from a north-eait direEtion, according to the E;ite or lying of the eoafts near T·hih it blows. On the ibuth part of Szcmarc it blows at north-weft, The great body of water that begins to run· in various·diretons, nre[t, buth, ibuth-fouth-eait, c. according to the igid gite of lands and ifland4 comes like a torrent betwen China and the Philzhpines, from the north-well part of the South Sea, in the month of Otober, TThen the NE monfoon begins. The current that, in November eipecially, fweeps round Ceylon to the well, cannot ariiE from any great accumulation of water in the Bay of Bengal, as it is what the French call a cul de /kc, but is S'eatly furniihcdd from the Smir of 1'Malacca; which cun·ent I have experienced to i`et ftrong north-weit and north-north-weft, near eda and 3LIn Skn, for a little way into the Bay of Bengal, in November; fr-om the ihid Stair, )Ier·e it is obvious the faid current, in the Malacca StraiL; comes: om the 6;5inn ·Teas; which alib at this time ikts through theBanca Srrait towards the Stlndla IJlands. It is obvious alib, that no great accumulation o·cvaters ca be gathered in the Novt· iLjjan ocean near Surat and Ih7Lalabr, as there is no exit that way northward, it being alfo a cul de Jc; which brings me near Africa, where, from analof;y, itrenghened by experiencei I iuipeA the middle or crofs monoon to be generated. ?iEie Page 100 Iao ) The buth-weit monroon, rweeping down the gut of MaiJnSrrnJ1-ilr in ummer, without doubt cnufes a great accumulation of vapour on the mountains of Africa. Theie mountains, near-the catarats of the Pll'ile, colleEt the annual flock which fertilizes L3Pf " Were Africa narrow from eait to well,. to what it is;--vere the Mediterrnean and the continent of Euroe much leis in length than what they are; theie vapours ib accumulated might find exit to the well or north-well, into the Atlantic in winter, when the fun E;oes iouth: but it would feenl that the burnin% i`ands and deCerts of Africa drink up what part goes well from the above-mentioned mountains. The greater propo'tio", I iuCeQ, goes eaitward, on the mdian iide, and cauiks the middle monibon in winter. From this quantity of accumulated vapour on Afr;ca, I deduce the origin of the middle morlroon. True, it blows up the gut of Madaga-ar, as far as z0 deg. ibuth latitude at north-eaft: the Site of the coait makes it follow this diretion; but further eait, a few degrees from the Line to ten degrees routh, it blows weit and north-weit, as by many years experience I have found, inibmuch as to be induced to fhape my courie accordingly, and profit there- from; and never was dii`appointed in getting to my port nrith as much diipatch as I could expeEt. I therefore think it is reaion- able, from the i-id experience, to conclude, that the middle mon- ibon originates from the revolution of vapours accumulated in the eait part of Srtca, and that part of Ai-ad;a that lies between the Rad Sea and YerJFan gulfs in iummer. Having thus given my idea of its origin, the advantages to be 8educed. from it are obvious; for if the na·rriSator runs into the * Afr·ira is above twenty times the area of the InJpan pcniniula. t See Bruce's Travels. J: For land winds (to which I have already compared the winter monloons) blow in all direEtions from where the vapours are moit denie; and on Sumaira, the land winds difcharge themfelves from the mountains that lie longitudinally in general; part to the itrait of 1Ma(ncca, and pare to the Couth-weft coait of the ifland. middle Page 101 Ior ) middle of its region, which, for peripicuitTI, I call the belt P, from four to eight degrees ibuth, he may make what eaiting he pleaies. And here I choofe to mention the current found in the Lively brig, in 1781, in pairng the region of the middle monioon, and, imme- diately after, the region of the north-eait monCoon. The currents let in oppofite direEtions; as witneis the following initance: From February the ·iecond, lat. 8 iouth; long per account 74: g; per timekeeper 74,: 3, until Februalg the r7th (fifteen days), lat· I : 16 north ; long. per account 88 : 2q.; per timekeeper gI: 30-i`et 3'6 eaitmard of account. M;inds moitly weit north- veit, being in the region of the belt, or middle moni`oon. From Februay the I7th, lat. I: 16 north, until the 26th (nine days), lat. 7: to north; we were ·fet 2:3 to the weitard of account. iinds moitly north-north-eaitt, being in the region of the north-eait monibon, The Elizabeth man of mar left Diega Rais the firft of December, 1761, bound to;Mndras. She itood into 17 degrees ibuth latitude, which iurely mas unneceffary: Ihe got to Madras the 26th of January, being 56 days on her paflBge.. In 178I the Lively got fi-om near Diego Rnis to njengo in 34 days by not quitting the belt until ihe Sot as far eait as ihe choie. w J,piter has his belts. This duiky region tin winter), whilft clear weather prevails in the Couth-eaft trade, bounding it to the iouthward, and clear weather alio in the region of the north-eaft monioon, bounding it to the northwzrd, may appear to an inhabitant of Jupiter like a belt for half the year. t Thole who go the inner pafiage l,?te in September mould not quit the Belt until thq Ire as far eait as they wim. Of the Cross Summer Monsoon. Page 102 ,oZ of the CrSs Stlmmer MonSoon. IN the preceding chapter dn the middle crois winter monibon, I have introduced terms which I iee in no book whatever on the i`ubjeEt. If I find, or pretend to find, a new road, I iurely may be alloed to give that road a name. Without exaA names or definitions in a treatiie on iuch a i`ubje as this, it cannot be handled with Deripicuity. J ihall therefore proceed to deicribtz what r mean in as plain laniuage as polIible. The north-weit mind which blows along the Belt from the L;ine to 8 or Io degrees ibuth latitude in winter, blomingr in a direEtion perpe"dicular to, or acluis the north-eaft monibon, I have there- fore called it the crois monCoon: it being bounded to the ibuth by the perpetual iouth-eait trade-wind, makes me call it alCo the middle moni`oon; it lying, as it were, incloied between the north- eaft onToon to ehe nort:1\Yard, and the outh-eaft trade-wind to the outhward. But the ibuth-ealt trade-wind in iummer produced, or continued from where it blows perpetually, into a regioii to which it has not acceis in winter, and io blowing in a direc'tion that croires the ibuth-meit monioon, the igid buth-weft monioon may, with eclual prol''iety as the other, be called a crois monioon. This being allowed, the one may be called the croCs middle winter monibon; the ot"ner may be called the crors iummer monibon: the word m;nnte not belonging to this lait with propriety, as it is not incloikd on each fide; or, in other ords, it may be ijid, tlat, in wintel·, north-eait, north-well, and Pouth-eait winds blow in their reiyec· tive regions; and in iummer, the iouth-weft and iouth-eait only. In winter three different winds blow in the Indiatz iea; in iummer only two. Of Of the most eligible Track to keep from Europe to East India. Page 103 Io3 ) oS the m elible liack 50 KeepSrom Europe fo Ea India. TF, therefore, a ahip bound from Eurspe to India in winter, i. e. I from the autumnal to the vernal Equinox, keeps a good offing, and does not come near Madeira, ihe will have the. advantage of not being io much in the region of calms, as if ihe keeps further eait; and will alio be favoured with a current fetting Couthward. There are alio other reaibns why I would advizle a ihip bound to India to keep well to the weitward, even at all times. It is obvious, that leaving the hannel with a north-eait wind, and having got io far.iouth as abreait of the coait of Pwtugal, if the ihip does not keep well to the meitward, the high Pyrenean mountains, and others on the well quarter of the continent of Europe, may, in all likelihood, check a wind, which a hundred leagues further off blows in force I Being further advanced Lbreait the great continent of Africa, if the navigator does not keep well to the weitivard, the retard- ment he will meet with may be more confiderable: for the conti- nent of Africa being very broad, its middle part full of fandy deierts, may retard or itop the eneral eaiterly wind in a very confiderable degree. The Pyrenean mountains can only check, but the deierts of Africa may almoCt exting·uih the iaid wind. And it is remarkable, that the region of calms, rains, and torna- does, in the Atlantic, is.opoiite to tile broadeft part of Africa, being nearly in the fame latitude: and this is not to be wondered at, when we confrder that iyi-ica is the broadeit piece of land So ihips bound from the low latitudes of dmcr;r to crors the PocilFe to Ind;a are often baied for weeks together, and even at a good diitance from the larld; which cer- tainly is owing to the interruption the mountains left behind give to the wiild. Farther on, fairly in the South Sea, this reldom or never happens. Commodore Anion experienced this when he left the coait of AN1Prisa ; he was manp dayo becalmed in the Centurion. Q upon Page 104 Ia ) uI'O'l the gobe that pafiks under the Equator. No \Ttonder,then, if the wind that blows from the lirdianiide is cooled, and almoit extinguiihed, in pairug over that vaft heated peniniula + And although in the fummer monfoon the winds off the eait p'omontory of Braxil may be from i-uth ibuth-eaft to fouth, and ibuth ibuth-weft; yet, from an apprehenGon that i`uch are foul winds to Set on with into a high iouth latitude, I would by no means have the navigator be againit itretching that way, becaufe he will ther-eby eicape the calms that prevail further eaft near Africa ; and, ihould the wind come ib far to the weitward as ibuth ibuth-tveit, a good itretch may be made iouth-eait, to where, more in the middle of the South Atlantic, the iouth-eait trade may be ex- peAed. At the fame time, I would not adviCe to make fo free with the coait of Brazil during the fummer monibon as during its op- polite; for then, their winter, the current off the eaft promontory of Brazil afli3redly ets to the iouthward; but I iuipet it Cets ib all the year round, for reaibns already given. Having got into the SoutS Arlaniic, I would have the navigator pay more regard to getting ibuth than eait ; that is, to iteer rather fouth ibuth-eait than iouth-eait, iuppoGng the wind enables him to do either. I know to this advice it will be objeaed, Why not fleer fouth-eait, rather than ibuth ibueh-eait it cuts off ib much diitance. I fee the force of this objeAion; but let the navigator refleA, that this fair wind, 6n which there can be no dependance for continuance in iteering iouth-eait, and by which, it would feem, he coveted eaiting as well as Couthing at the fame time, may leave him in the lurch, by the expiration of the favour- able iPirt, in a parallel far ihort of where he might have got, had the getting iouthing at this time been his principal objeEt; letting theeaiting come in only as a collateral or i-condary confideration ). * Birds of ParadiTe, to Fave their bezutiful plumage, or rather to fave themCelves from being dafhed againit rocks or trees,`are raid to Cpring up into a moderate region when it blows a gale of wind below, near the earth's iurface. t In the Lively b;ig, in I780, I got from Falmouth to the latitude of the Cape in 31 days. I kept a good way to thc'weit of MaJeira. Having Page 105 105 ) Having got well to the ibuthward, I ould by no means adviie coming rrear the Cape of Good Hoie, if the navigator intends go- ing without MadagaScnr, but to 'keep in 3fj or 36;· degrees of lati- tude. The Irariatioa of the ci3mpai determines the longitude nearly, though not ib well as good lunar obiervations; and it is not unadvi8ble to make Goscgh's ifland, whence, who knows but refreihments may be had, and a harbour dii`covered In this high parallel the minds are more teady, and the currents ietting weit near frica are avoided. If bound without Madaga/car, I would now advii`e the navigator to pay his chief regard to getting eaitward, and not covet. northing too ibon; never keep his ihip right before the wind (unleis, in- deed, ihe fails beft that way); to remember that eait ibuth-eait and eait north-eait couries combined differ not from eait. And here I would have him itudy the eafe of the ihip and her malts, in the courik he ihapes; always giving his officers a latitude of altering the courfe two or three points, ib far as io doing makes the ihip eaier, or ehables her to go falter; and by no means to confine his courie to a certain point, as if deviating therefrom could be of any bad conequence here in the wide ocean. From the longitude of Io degrees eait to beyond the meridian of the iiland of Madagacar the wind will frequently veer from well to ibuth-weit, fouth, ibuth iouth-eait, and ibuth-eait, and in the eourie of forty-eight hours, or three days, comes round to the weitern quarter again. .When this happens, let him keep his fails Fap full, and rely chiefly on t;is variation or obiervation for making Ceylon, or the Srrait of Sund7. But, during the middle, or north- eait monfoon, if bound for the Strajt of Strnda, let him fail-in with Engano, or the coait of Sumatra, north of Bencoolen. If duringthe ibuth-weit monibon, but eipecially in May,· June, and July, he is bound for the Strair of Sunda, let him fall-in with the coait of' Java, as iouth-eait winds prevail there in general during thei`e months; at the fame time attended with revolutions from the oppoilte quarter; remembering that the current generated by the Qz wind Page 106 Ito ) wind at north-weft on the north end of Sumatrn, in ummer, though it " drains in-ihore as far as the iouth part of that ifland, the draining eaitward goes not beyond the Slraif of Sunda to the coait of Java ; it being al·eady exhauited on the coait of Sumatt-a. o This circumitance of the draining of a current againit the expeEted fouth-eait wind, makes it not fo hazardous to fall-in, in fummer, to the well of the Strait of Sunda; though the Surat Dutch mip has often been baffled there. But if, during the middle or winter monfoon, he makes the land eaA of the Slrait of Swnda, he muit run back into the fouth-eait trade to get welling, unlers he boldly keeps near the coaft of Jaets for land andfea winds; for here the current fets itrong eaft during the middle monibon. Of Of the Monsoons of the South-West Coast of the Island Sumatra. Page 107 Io7 ) of rse MonSoons af the Satcr-l'eJt CoaJP of he 17md Sumatra. THE ifland Sumafra, being biikAed by the Line, cauies a iingular phenomenon, which ought duly to be attended to by thoik who have occafion to fail that way. The many voyages I have made upon that coait enable me to fayfomething that may be depended on; and I muit acknowledge, that I failed upon it feveral years before I knew the theory or nature of the mon foons there. I attributed circumftances to the whole coait of winds and weather which only belong to half the coaitat a time. Experience convinced me I reafoned wrong; and I have iince found, that \yhilit the north half of the coat from Ace/Seen Head to the Epuator is in the region of the north-eait monfoon, the other Couth half, from the Ltite to the Srrair of Sunda, is in the region of the belt or middle monioon already mentioned, which, as has been laid, blows only during the winter or north-eaft monioon, from -he Lin to ten degrees ibuth latitude, The iouth-weit coait of the north part of the ifland Sumatra, during the north-ealt monioon, is affeted by it, exatly as the Malabar coait is affeAed during the laid monfoon; that is to fay, they have then the fineit nreather, with land and ika breezes: for the north-eait monibon that blows in full force behind this half of the ifland in the Srrait of Malaeca, is checked almoit entirely by the high`moutains; iniomuch tlBt it does not gather force again till at a great diltance. South of the Lljc, the middle mon- foon checks it entirely, and in a manner extinguiihes it. Fix the point of a compais half way between Atchecn Head ahd one degree north latitude on this part of the ifland Sumatra, and with it defcribe a femicircle to the ibuth-weft; vithin this ikmi- circle is the region of calms during the north-eait monfoon: therefore, if the navigator values his time, let him keep clear of it. If near it, and well of the meridian of AtclJeen Head at the Came Page 108 Io8 ) time, he will find a drain of a current letting to the weit\yard, that comes from the Sirnit of Malacca. During the lummer monfoon the ibuth-wei winds that blow in the Bay of Bengal, meeting here the high mountains, are checked, and blow down this coait from the north-weft. They bring rain and bad weather as far as the Line; where, for a iinall iyace, variable winds prevail at all times of the year, Thus the gite, or iituation of the coait lying from north-well to ii uth-eait, changes the line of the wind's primitive direAion; a current: iktting to leeward accompanies it, being part of that great body of water that comes during this moni`oon from the Srrait of MadaaScar, and paifes Ceylon into the Slraij of Malaccca ; for at Atcheen Head it: ieparates; part going into the Strait, and part down the coat of Sumatra. I have already iaid that this coait of the north part of the ifland Silmnrra refembles the coaft of Malabar in the winter or north-eait monioon: but there is one circumitance in which it is efientially different, and of which the navigator ihould take par- ticular notice. The northeait monibon in the China ieas is checked by the peniniula of Malacca, but recovers itrelf in the Bay of Bengal. It is again checked bythe mountains of Indban, but recovers itielf in the northern :Indian ocean off the coait of Malabar; where, it being laitly checked by Africa, it blows far up the gut of MadrgaScar". But the ia;d monioon being checked by the mountains on the north part of Sumatra, it never recovers itfelf, being loll, as I apprehend, in the middle monfoon, near to the region of which it reaches; and this, no doubt, caufes the calms within the iemicircle before mentioned. On the other hand, calms need not he expeted within the above-mentioned iemicircle during the iuth-weit monbon. Frefh * The north-eait monfoon left the Elizabeth man of war in 2I routh latitude end e: rr longitude from Mobmbiuq, on the 31it of January, 1764, at ha born before hinred. 5 gales Page 109 Ios ) gales pi-avail there; and if a fhip is bound from Inda/3an to BnfavrLI, let her faften as ibon as il-ie call on the coait of Sumntm in ibuth latitude (but not north of Indrapore Point), where, with land and fea breezes, ihe may get to theStrair of SLlnda, againit the ibuth- eait w-inds that prevail oil this part of the coait during the ibuth- welt monibon; and about which I ihall now iieak more parti- cularly. Whilit the north part of the coait· enjoys fine weather during: the north-eait moni`oon, the iouth part of the coaft is in the region of the middle or north-well monioon, with freih gales and rain, ztice uerSa in iummer; that is, during the ibuth-weit mon- ibon, on the ibuth part, the wind coincides with the general ibuth-eaft trade, and brings fair weather : and on the north pare of the coait the ibuth-weit moni-on, turned by the gite of the coait, becomes north-weft, as has been iaid. At this time Dutch kips from Surat that So to Baiavicr, after quickly getting down the coait of Malabar, round Ce3/lon,are, when they come near the ibuth part of ·Sumara, much retarded with Couth-eait winds. I have known there ihips often put back from near the Strair of Sunda to Bencao/en, with a.fickly crew; fail thence, and put back'again; making a pafljge of three or four months from Srat to Barta -. And this makes me wonder that the annual Szcrar Dutch ihip does not leave Surar in the month of January or February; run into Gx or ieven degrees of iouth latitude; where, with the middle monibon at well and north-weit, ihe could quickly get to the Ssrait of Szmda. * Were the mip to faAen on the coaR of Sumaira near Induapore Poini, or iouth of it, the current generated by the north-weft wind on the north part of the ifland, as already hinted at, drains down the fouth,eait part of the ifland, cloie in-ihore, even agzinit the Eouth-eaB wind, of which advantage is to be made. But ]argeflips are afraid of keeping near the land. The current, all the year round, iets the whole length of the coait more to the iouthward than northward. The Page 110 I ro ) The folowing letter mill further confirm what I have advanced fi·orn my OTm experience: Capt. Lloyd to Capt, Forreit. ' IN aniitrcr to your letter requeitiag to know what coure I 'L ihaped from Archeer HeaLa to Bencoolen, I acquaint you, that we " paired from Atcheen Head, in fight of Pulo Rondo, the 27th of Ja- ' nua.ry, and fteered iouth-meit, iiouth ibuth-weit and iouth, until " eve croifed the Line ; then 6uth-eait, and iouth ibuth-eait, until 'L in the latitutle of the nTagnu illands, where I met with ftrong "north-relterly winds, which carried us to Bencoolen, where I C' arrived the 6th of February, having been only ten days from '' Yula Ronn'a. L'Iam, c, C T. LLOYD.'' S/31p Genernl Ellil, Bencoon, Feb. 8, 1787· * Ey iteeril·ig iouth-wet fro;n AtrhPPn Hean,Capt. Llod avoided being becalmed in the iemicircle recommended to be avoided in page lo'l· Of "Of the proper Track to keep in going from Madras, or Bengal, to Bencoolen, Batavia, or Parts further East, during the Winter North-East Monsoon." Page 111 f Irr Of the propep· rr'rrcfi to keep in going drram Marlras, op Bengal, to Ben- coote91, Bntavcl, or Parrs frther EaJf, dtcrin,n the tiizrer Nrth-Z(z/t MoPzSoon. I HAVE been going from Manms to BENcsln during the north- eaft monibon; and, by fteering ibuth-eait the neareft track, have had a tedious paifage. About the meridian of ArclJeen and a degree to its ibuthward, we had the wind at ibuth-eait blowing frei for ikveraldays. This was certainly a very irregular wind at this ·feaibn. I was alib once going a freihter in the Ezlrope ihip, Denham, from Bengal to Bencaoln, the .latter end of winter (February I760) ; and by not keeping the By open, but coaliing Sumarm without the iflands Yirkins, Nnnttirn, L7rrl·s, Forrzcne, and the Naazl iflands, we had a tedious paflkSe to Bencooles as we went within that iemicircle already r·ecommended to be avoided. The belt track is to keep the Bay open; or, in other words, keep near the meridian of Poritt Pairas, iteering ibuttl until in five or fix degrees ibuth latitude, where the middle monCoon at tsreit and north-weft may be expeted. This coincides with the track kept by ihips SoinS to Clinn, by Captain VVilfo:l's pairage, called Pitl's Str·nir. The g,, track is recommended if bound fr·om Ben3al to places eaitw·ard in ibuth lat-itude; but, if bound to Archre9z or the north part of Slllatra, let the navigator keep well to windmand of Alcheen E-lead, and go through the Szlrat paige, if bound to lc!lrlbco, or eli^ewhese down the coait of Szl711Qlrn: dil-eEtions for which given in pne 61 of this work. or a!-e n Of "Of the Track to keep from Madras, or Bengal, to Bencoolen, during the South-West Monsoon." Page 112 ,I, ) Of f/17e 'IY6CR to X'eep frot Nlhdms, or Birlgal, fo Bencoolen, dzlr-i tja Sozlrh-WZ IonSoon. I N the month of Auguit a ihil, may Set from Bcnal to the iouth- ward by keeping cloie to the coait of Coromnndel; for then the freihes of the Gnges fet along-ihore. Having got a little way down, as far perhaps as point Godewar, i'he may put off when the wind hangs well to the weitward, and Set ibuthing and eaitine; together. BLlt, illOUlil the navigator fall to leeard of Atcbeen HedrE (for in Atcheen n/7ad the wind blows through the Szrrdt pairage at ibuth- well into the Stmit of Malaoca), let him anchor, the nearer the ihore tile better; and by land and iea breezes he may eafily Set to Atcheelz Rn wher·e, in imooth water, he may anchor and re- fi·cih: but it is unlikely for a ihip to fall to leeward at this ieaion. Departing from nfcJJpen, the track is down the coait of Szlmarra, Icaving what is called PLO-7ge Iand on the right hand; off the north-vere entf of' which is a reef, which it would be proper to cnd a boat to reconnoitre and lie upon until the ihiy is pall. Thence iteer for Pzllo nlaztllar, on the north-weit end of which is a remarkable water-fall. Tn the French and EnSliih maps of this part of the coait (both copied from the Dutch, I believe), a line or track is dramn, and depth of water is r$nified cIoe by that 3ine. The honoirable Company's ihiD Experiment was loit on B;r-d IJlanl, G miles north of Pulo Lucosta, in I772, by keeping in 28 or 30 fathom v\,ter. I have been on this very iinall ifland three ol· four times, in pairng this way, to Set birds and eggs: it is not in magnitude above half an acre, with grars`upon it. Off its nort:1 end is a i·eef extending near a mile, where the hip was lo, owin66 chiefly to the falie ioundings laid down in the chart-: therefole, I rcclueit the r-eader will take particular notice of what 1 am going to i'ay on that iubjet. I have paflkd this ifland at leait ten or twelve times, and have been on it three or four times. In 1756 there was no Srai`s upon it. Page 113 113 ) it. In 176; there mas glais on it. I have pafied it in the night, without ieeing it, iteering by ifoundings in 17 and 1S fathoms muddy ground; alio in the day, and almot las near as I can re- collet) in that mid-channel line laid down in the printed charts, and n·here I7, 18, and not above 22 fathoms ihoultl have been written; inftead of which, 30 and 32 beings written, the navigator naturally thinks, whilt in that deDth, he is in that line. But I airer-t, that iilch a depth will carry him (if not upon) very near the ifland; which, though bold to the north within piltol-ihot, is foul to the well. It is pity but the copper-plate was altered, by erarng from the track 30 and 32, and engraving fhereon from 17 to 20 fathoms for at leait 4, or ; miles. In the fairway i lately found an overfall fi-om 20 to 7 rocks, then, 18 mud: this is men- tioned in page 6L3· BeTdes the reef of this BfrLZ 771zE, there ar·e feme very danger- ons ipots of coral rocks under water to the eaard of it, w'nich· I have feen as I paired. In ihort, failing from Part3-e IJlrra, until pail Mazllar, Iwould adviik not to fail in the nig·ht; except within and near 2Mazzlkar, I always paired within it in r7 and 18 fathoms. Having paired Maxzltnr, fleer for Pulo Battoo by the Malays called Ymgee; off the north end of which are three iinall jflands: give them a reaibnable birth, and iteer on within the lare iflands, but without the imall iflands. If further down the cdait, near Ijldrapore Poini, you meet ibuth- tail winds, the ihip muit anchor, and nrith land and fea br-eezes work down the coait; obCerviog what is fiid in the Direory about ihoals off Ipoo, and other places north of Brncoa/en. Nitherto I have fuppofed the ihip to pais within Pula Yirkins and what is called Pulo Bbnjnck, or P2llo Baba. Pu(o Bnnia (many jflands) is the proper name. On the largeit of this cluiter, which lies out'h-eait of Yirkllss, is a remarkable hill, making, in ibme direQions, like a iugar-loaf: it bears vith P7e Ind SW by W, ; tV (iPe page 6 and, the Views of the Humntcck and PaDbe R2 rann) . Page 114 EI4 j· If you SO by PaTk·e Iznn, this hill muft be lelct: on t;le right hand; but there is paiiage without it, i. e. betveeI1 it and Pul h7s_vs. Keep neareit I-'ul Baniu, and nnchor in the night if you can; for there are ibme hoals, and iinall iflands, and overfalls, nohel-e laid donrn; therefore pafs them by day-light. If you do not choofe either of thefe itraits, you may keep at iea, and pais between Nnys and intian, where· is a bold pairage; neareit 2\in3·J·, or even as far as Nlu, or· tile Pogy iflands, where, iailing ciofe to the north hTLaZ1 ifl;llld) between it andl;brrune ifland, is a good aflage:1:-, leaving Nngitu on the riglt; but io far to the i`outhward during the ibuth-neit monibon ibuth-eait winds may be met with; therefore, you mult get in-ihore, and anchor cloie to the mnin land, and trult to land and iea breezes, as heFole direced, being now abiblutely in the region of the j-uth- eait monCoon; obfcrving, if you have rain on the iIrings, it ge- nerally brings the wind from the weftward, as fouth-eaft winds biinsr fair weath er. a Between the two au i7ands is the Strait of Sekoru, where is an excellent har- bour. 1 have watered twice here, and got coco-nuts, pigs, yams, and fago, put up in atrop leaves; for trifles of beads, blue cloth, and cutlery, c. I aaid a night at Ba- toPmongo village, to the weft of the iovth entrance of this itrait. Ine natives are much fairer than Malays generally are, and much handiomer than the Nias, who are alio pretty fair. They p3ibn their arrows, which appears like mould on their points ; if uied well, nuthinsr is to be apprehended from them : but beware of mifunderftandin s. I would ;tdviit io trade oil i;!ure at the watering place; but rather givsnp a point tran quarrel. Fire a gz:;1 on poui·;irrival, to give notice to their chiefs, many of whom I`peak Malay: if a Maln!l prow is h-re, make the Nocluedah your friend, as the Malays are fly an(f cunling, and the nL.tives are honet and credulous; they go almoit naked. I vliited a pel'p"r-g"'d"" at Batoemongo in 1753, th"t had gone to ruin (fee Dalrymp]e'E Memoirs). 'I`hcy have a few fowls. I aaid a night at Ba- The natives are much "Of the best Track to keep from Indostan to Celebes, or th Moluccas, during the South-West Monsoon." Page 115 IIs ) Of 15e LI ·irik i3 tt fYOm Indnn to Cp/ebes, or r6e Molzccas, dz/r- 179 the SOZlflJ-fEZ MonSoon. SAILIr\T- fi·om Inw'oJian fo far eait, and in iouth latitude, the navisrator may meet the wind at i`outh-eait, eait of the meri- dian of the Sfvnit of Szlnda, and even before. He is iure of it in R/lay, June, and July; but there are often ipirts of weiterly wind, from which he may profit. The beit rule, I think, is to get with the weiter·ly winds in north latitude as far eait as he can; then, when the wind comes buth-eait, itand ibuth. Near the rop;e he may find the wind ibuth, i`outh by eait, nay ibuth by were, with which he may put about, fetching tvell to windward, accord- ing to where he is bound: if bound to G/;Iolo, he muit itand far ibuth, and make Nme, Holland; on the weit coait of which I luiIec the wind is in this monCoon at ibuth, correiponding to what it is on the opporte Tide of India, on the coait of frica, But, an`uredly, when he comes to that par·t of the coait of Neter Hilland where the land trends iuddenly eaRward, in fummer, he will have the wind at eait. If bound to the north coait of Ce(eGes, the ihiD may go the ufual track betnreen Bamban,aa91 and Borneo ; then, having worked down the north-eait coaft of Borneo, ihe may fetch the north coait of Celees; remembering that in this moroon the wind is frei at ibuth up the channel, bettveen Borneo and CeFebeE. Of · Of Sailing from Indostan to Magindano at all Times of the Year. Page 116 ) Of Sailt;z,rr from Indfiiln to Mrr·izLilno nt nll -Titlies of t/3e 1 nl". h' the iouth-weit monroon, i. e. from h:lay to Oober, a il;i' may get there in the ui'ual track through the Stra;t of nll- fircca, in about five or fix Reeks, paifing cloie to the north part of Balrrmbangan, and to the jouth of BaSzlan: ihe might afterwards proceed to CiJ;na as late as OEtober, by the eait of Mindcknn; nay even later: until December ihe has C15m, as it were, under her lee; becaui- fhee can get into the South Sen far nearer to Cina than the Pitt's Srra;t. I may venture to iky, a good ihip may get from 17dano to China at any time of the year, and vice verSn. She may alib return from Mindntzo to Illadras at any time. If dut·ing -the Couth-weit monibon, from Rlay to Otober, ihe mull itand over to the weft coait of Celebes, where, with land and fea breezes, the land being high, ihe gets to the -uthward, To as to be able to weather Pu-Lout on; the ibuth-eait part of Borneo. Care mut be taken to keep cloie to CeleGes; becaufe on tile oppo- iite iFore of Br/mro the winds are at iouth, and no land wind (the land beings iow). Having Faired Pulo-Lozlt, the wind is fair at outh-eait to run within Jcrua through the Srrail of Szlldn into the iouth-eat trade, in eight or nine deg. ibuth latitude; and the frlip ought to endcavour, before ihe itands to make Ceyion, to he full as far neit by her dead account, as the meridian of the weit par-t of it. A north courie may then only mae the eait part of it, the current iilts io itrong eait dul-ing the iouth-weit monibon. I have Ijid the navigator muft, from Mindana, ihape his courre bet·een Celibes and B:meo. This is recommended, becauik the weit coait of Ce!ebes is high, and he is iure, by i`ea and land winds near it, to Set forward. If he went between Celrls and Giio, poirbly he could not get forward at all; as Z iuipeQ (though I cannot certainly ikp) that a ioutherly wind blows throughout this ftrait ciurinl; the Cauth-weit monibon from iide to iide; which Page 117 117 ) is not the caie in the ot·her channel between Celebes and Borneo. Prows go continually from PL7iT to Bataz·ia, and elrewhere, by ianding over to Crbes, to the northtard of the Little Pater- noiters, and io weather Plo-Lozll; nrhere, in the fouth-weit monoon, the wind is i`outh-eaft, as has already been iBid. To fail from Mindano to New Gzlinea during the Couth-weit mon- ibon, the navigator mull fail into the Souih Sea as far. as the meridian of the part he wants to vi%t, and then iteer iouth, en- deavouring to fall-in to the eailward of his port, as the current iets weit.on this coait during that monoon, and the wind is at ibuth-eait. In ihort, Mj:ndano is fo centrically placed, that J iee no difliculty of failing to and from thence at all times to any part of India,· by obierving this general rule: that during the iouth-weit mon- ioon, from Rpril to September, the winds in India, eaft of CeJvln,· are iouth-eait in i`outh latitude; and, during the north-eait mon- ibon, that is, from November to April, the winds are north-weit, in iouth latitude in the Belt. This being adverted to, it is obvious tliata iliipmay get fiom Madras, Bengal, or Bomay, to MindL7no at any time; if during the i`outh-veft moni`oon the coure is well known to be through the Srrait of 1Mnk?cca, as has been iBid; if during the north-eait monfoon, from November to May, ihe muit run eait in five or fix iuth latitude, and might venture,having paired Salayer (the Buggeroons), in the track to Pirr's Srrait, to itand north between Celebes and Gilolo"; but if between thefe iflands ihe finds a north caiterly ind, which is likely, I would then adviie to itand di- reEtly through the Srrair of AuguJfiE, Pitt, or Go/ozea, into the Surb Sra. Beings then in the Sout/J Sea, the ihiyy muit fleer north, as if going to CIJjna, and make Cape Agz*JZine, the ibuth-eait point of 1Mindano. Jr Ships often make a ihort cut this way, with the wind at NW, as I am informed. This Page 118 IIs ) This paaSe is againit the monibon, but may be made in feven or eight weeks from Maas to Minrl'czno ; whereas, with the mon- loon, it may be made in five or iix nieeks. Again, a iip may iail from MnBras to Iindno in five or fix weeks, and return direEtly in feven or eight, during the Eouth- eit monibon, and u;ce verSa. She may iail during the north-eail monfoon to Mindano in ieven or eight weeks, and return to 1Mkdras in five or fix. In the firit cafe, ihe i`ails with, and returns againit; ;11 the iecond ca·Ce, ihe igils againft, and returns with, the monibon. Of Of the Outer Passage to Bombay; of Cross Winds in the Bay of Bengal; Currents in the China Seas; South Coast of Africa; Passage Home. Page 119 319 ) O$ the Outel- PO;rge to Bomd,zy ; f CP·Ss n's in Ihe B f Bengal ;. Czln-enrs in tke CSia Sens; Szlt CoaJ ofAfi·ica; Pa-z-e Home, T " E dvwtaScl of Setting to the eaffvard ill ·Finter, lg running from rnrJoJ7cTn i·nto the Belt, I have endeavoul·ed to: illuitrate. The Setting to the nreitward againft the Irouth-·rr·eit Inonfoon may alii, be effeEted by a fimilar manoeuvre, viz. running into the iouth-eaft trade: this is called the outer pairage to Bomday: and the Gulphs, now well known, and firit, I believe, attempted and executed by that able iEaman and navigator Sir William James, in the P1·otetor, about the year I75S· The general rule-is, to· avoid the Bs n'e CIJngos, by iteering in a certain parallel, n Erilld of crofs ·ind blon·s alio in the 13ni, of Belznl during I;e- bl-uary, harch, and April; nrhiift in the middle of the Ba3Y it blows nol·th-eaft, along the coait of Cormande/ it blows from the `outhrrard; well known by the name of the LonS-ihore winds: notwithitanding TYhiCh, the wind blovs often at north-eaft in E'ebl-uary on the coafi: of Coromannel, and ibmetimes in larch for a fenr days. '1Tlhilit the Long-kore sinds blor·, it is impoirble to Set aainit them to the ibuthward without leaving the land; but when in ILy land-winds begin to blow, it is eaijr to get to the ibuthvard by anchoring, and profiting by the land and iea breezes, n At the beginning of the tlortll-eait monioon the current fets itrong to the ibuch\Yard in the CNlu SPns; and at Prirte'i Paitr the north cape of BornEo, it divides, pairng both the weft and the north-eait coait of that ifland, until late in Januaiy. The cull-ant then iets weit, through the itrait between Borneo and the iflands 13alnmdnngnN and Bangzle. I ihall lay little Pbout the paira,ae home from India; it is a Itind of beaten track. Many commanders in the iErcice can treat the S iubjet Page 120 J20 s fujeEt better thaniI can yretend to. But, in getting along the iouth coaft of A,a, I am an advocate far keeping near the ihore, t p.rofit froriii"the windward current "; and there the niinds never blom riant the ihore, which lies nearly eait and veiti I have therefore called that quarter the ibuth coait of Afr;cn, he ide of a cape, which oftener makes an acute than an obtuie angle, may have led geographers to make the famous Crrpe of Good flope ·an acute angle; whereas;t ii; nearly a right angle, the coaft trending almoit due eaft a great way. Being pait it, I am for avoiding cfricn for the fame reaibn as when outward bound; but ihips are ildom 6 Inuch becalmed homeward as when leaving England * See Major Rennell's excellent Map and Treatile on this rubjec; digeited with eat ability from what may be called the aflence of a multitude of journals. CO h'- Conclusion. Page 121 ( rz ) CONCLUSIO N. HAVING, in the preceding pages, gone through what I un- dertook, A rcte on ihe Monooftr Ijr India, I beg leave to make a few deiutory remarks. What I have laid has iprung from a long pratice, on which I have formed a kind of theory. The theory goes hand-in-hand ffith -the pratice; and in many places I frankly acknowledge my errors, particularly about the iouth-weit coait of the ifiand;Sir- marra, where I have often been. Latterly I found circumitances of wind and weather peculiar only to half ttbe coait at a time; which I, in the days of my ignorance, attributed to the whole length of that iouth-weit coait, I never knew a levere gale of wind on that coait. It often blows from the north-well a clore; reefed topCail Sale; ieldom above that, unleis perhaps, where a land-wind comes off at north, it may, for a few minutes, oblige a hip to edge au·ay with the mainiail up, which is a far preferable manceuvre, if there is room, to clewing up a topfail, and, by letting it flap, endanger its exiitence. Tbeie iqualls ikldom lalt above reven or eight minutes with violence. Here the Equinotial Line, which biieCts the ifland, aAs like a temperator, if I may be allowed to uie the word.. Seorms are never Erecluent near the Line; and the changing of monibons on this coait is never accompanied with that violence that we find in the Bay of Benal and the China i-as. There the adjacent continents with high mountains breed tempeits like what is found on the eait coait of NOTIJJ Amer;ca. Iflands, it would eem, cannot accumulate itock en9ugh of vapour to produce violent gales; and what matter they do colleCt, at a certain diitance evaporates. S2 Yet Page 122 I22 ) Yet the evere Sales e hear of at Ih7auritius are moitly internal, and within two or three leaues of its outer circuit. Further off i, I uipet the weather may be moderate, whilit irrefiitible hurri- canes pe'vade the ifland itCelf. The nrind ·ieems to loik its force inverrely, acccrding to the ditance, that is, n·hen the gale is gene- rated in the ifland: but in the latitude of 1MIrurifrus gales are ali`o often felt very ievere, blowing fi-om i-uth-eait, and then veer with the utmoit violence to another quarter (often to the north-eit, much more violent than is ever found in north latitude, in the mdian, 14l(antic, or Pacfic i`eas, except at the critical breaking-uy of th monibons in India, or in the hurricane months in the WlZ-lndies " The cold is alfo more iievere in the iouthel·n than in the north- ern hemiphere; ritneis the ieverity of it felt at Clerm del Fuego in iilmnner, as once experienced by the two friends, Menieurs Banks and Solander. " It may be iurpeted, that, were not the two Americns joined by the ithmus of Pattntna, there would be no violent hurricanes in the TYpJf-lndies. END OF TUE TREATISE ON TI1E ru10NSOONS. P R O- Proposal for Making Ships and Vessels More Convenient for the Transportation of Passengers. Page 123 P R O P O S A L FOR MAKING SHIPS END VESSELS MORE CONVENIENT FOR THE TRA NS PO RTAT I O N OF PSSENGERS. I HAVE heard of the Hero man of war carrying, befides her creY, many paifengers to the ifland niizorcn, hen reftored to the Engliih at the end of the war before laft: the ihip wa"s ii; crowded with men, Mromen, and children, that to pais along was difficult: however, the pairage being favourable, and methoci·and order being particularly attendkd to, they were igfely landed. The bad coniequences of a long pailgge in a crowded ihiy, more particularly if attended with rain or foggy weather, which caulk a ihip to be not only upon decl;, but throughout, very dirty, are often ikverely felt, being followed immediately with colds, and, in time, often with the bI·eaking out of the Ccurvy and other diforders, To remedy uch inconveniencies, it is propoied to fix certain galleries from near aft to abreait of the ihip, as far forward as what is called the cheitree: that willbe of no weight to itrain the ihip's hull, of little trouble to fix and unfix, and of no interrup- tion to her working, but of great relief to the crew and paifengers, who, if during one hour of the day only, in a crowded ihip, ,igt, from fuch a fhort jntermiion of bad weather, rjS out the galleries Page 124 r24 galleries fore and aft, or to windward only, receive great: benefit from airing themielves and drying their clothes, and thus, by giving room within board, to make the ibip iweet and clean; for it is not loon that the decks of a crowded fhip will dry after waihing. This is notpropofed to be done in bad weather, but in indif- ferent iinooth water. In trade-winds the galleries might be kept out night and day, The idea of this contrivance is taken from real experience in a Sooloo boat, in hich I ent from Balntran to Nau Gzinea in the latter end of 1774, a ditance of about 450 leagues. The boat or prow was not above ten or twelve tons burden, but had a gallery on each Gde that extended almoit her whole length, pro- jeting about thirty inches on each Tde: here they rgwed, cooke, and generally flept; and it gave the veil an amazing deal of room, as we were 22 in number, and often 30, on board at a time, and were out 20 months altogether, and vifited I8 different harbours; I'lans of which are given in my account of the voyage. The names of none of theCe harbours are upon record in ally book I have iken. As Iuch a contrivance, tightly made with iplit bamboos or cane, is univeri`al amongit the Malays and inhabitants of the "ttno, and they do not find it itrains or hurts their imall veirels, much IrCs would it affe5t a large ihjp, where the length and weight of the projeAing gallery bears a much ]eTs proportion to the burden: and this is much in favour of the propoi`al; for, in proportion to the increaie of the tonnage of the kip, the weight of the gallery coparatively diminifhes. To fix theie galleries, it is propoiPd to pierce the fhip's fide with a Pcuttle cloiie to a beam (ice the figure in the circular view of BoSI harbour): through this fcuttle a imall beam, 13 feet in length, cqual to half the breadth of the kip (15 feet), excepting two Page 125 I25 ) to feet; is to be put out, keeping its heel 3 feet wit'hin board, to be bolted to its correfponding deck beam; this Io feet beam mill be without board. Theie gallery beams are to be numbered from abaft, and acroifs their ends are to be laid fore-and-aft carlines, each with a mortoiie, to receive itancheons, in orrler to form a rail at the outer end of the gallery. It is obje(5ted, this will itrain the ihip's upper works: it is eai to have props or itancheons from the bend, or rather above it, to the falie beams, as this throws the veight on the body of the ihip: but I apprehend no Euch objeion can juitly be made. It is obvious what advantages mould arik from the crew's being obliged to eat on this gallery; the offal at meals would then fall into the water, and in fine weather at iea the crew would wial to fleep on them; for it is only in harbours, where, from de-s and noxious exhalations from itagnant waters, fleeping in the open air is hurtful. The relief given alib to the body of the ihip biy- keeping live itock of all kinds on this gallery, from whence all offence drops immediately overboard, is fufliciently obvious. it muit alTo be convenient in drawing mater immediately up: this would induce the iailors to bathe often, from which moit ih!u- tary and agreeable omce they are difinclined, by the ihil 's head, ge- nel-ally kept for that purpoie, being almays in a very dirty condition, from the vicinity of the kitchen, and other neceirary caures: and the poor men having on this roomy Sailer·y gocK1 conveniences, not only to waih, but alb to dlT and air their clothes, bedding, Src. would be rather inclined to do it frequently, 22n obvious advantage ariiks from the gallery's ihading the ihip's iides from the fun; and by ipreacling awnincSs, much good mater might be faved when it rains, free fi-om a tarry taite by touching ropes in the body of the ihip. The gratings nb and c rJ, when the galleries are in, call Ee put Page 126 I26 ) i, battans under tile decks, n·here they will diigppear, taking littIi: or no room, -·hilitthe faire beam lies CnuS by the Gde of its corrc- pondent deck beam. Supoie a ihip of 30 feet beam rigs out a gallery beam of ro feet: in length of each Tide, reierving 3 feet heel within board: this, with 70 feet in length from abaft to the cheitree, will give 700 iiperficial feet; which, at 3 fuperficial feet for a man to itand, gives room for 233 men to itand on one Gde, and double the number when the ihip is at anchor, But, allotTi- inS " pace 6 feet long, and Ia broad, to lie down upon, which is equal to g iupcrficial feet; one Gde, at this rate, will admit of 77 men, and both rIdes of Ij4, to lie without much inconvenence;· and ii,in I'.oro'tio" for IflrSer or iinaller veirels. I have iuppoi`ed each gallery beam to be ihorter by z feet than half the beam of the iip: ib fuppofing their heels to meet when liSSed in, the other end will be 2 feet from te hip's outer iide; this will enable the fcuttle to throw in light, and admit air. The i`cuttle Ou5ht alTo to be I or z inches deeper in height, thouglz exaA in b1-eadth to the gallery beams; by which means ime light and air can at all times be admitted into the ihip, as I CugpoiE the fcuttle fluttcrs are not to be ihut but in bad weather; and even then 3 Iiece of thick Slai`s may be fixed to give light, as I have often feen, Iluw fdr this proIoill Inay be extended to flave ihips, let others judge; but as they iil almolt alrnys in lov I;ltitudes, their gal- lel-ies might be accol-dingly keIt out Ilij·ht and day, to their great health and comfort. T,et a thil-ity man bathe with ilt water; it refi-ehes and airuages his thil·it: this outward Gmple applica- ·tj,, t, the human body iucceeds bell when thrown over it, well covercci rrith a thick garment; the freih p"'ticles of the iglt rater are then abCorbed by the pores, and have a wonderful effeA. This I know from experience with Lai`cars, and others, when iometimes, though, I thank God, very feldom, having been rather fl:ol-t of nater in my many country voyages, To Page 127 r27 To what I ha,ve iaid about making ihips and veirels more conl venient for the accommodation of yairengers, I might add ibme thing about making boats more convenient for the accommodation of aaves on the rainy rivers of Africa", itorving of goods, lumber, Stc. by uiing the tripod maft, like the Buggefs Padaan of Celebes, deicribed in one of the cuts of this work, alio in the Voyage to Neze( Guinea. In the Tartar galley already mentioned there was a tripod mail fitted in that manner, and it gave an amazing deal of room in the body of the veCiel for the crew; which, added to that given by the galleries, made her, although only a boat of Io or 12 tons, have the accommodation of a veirel of three times that burden. The tripod, when ftruckt offers itCelf as a boom to ipread a·tar- paulin upon, or cajans, as the Malays call palm leaves Cewed together, The belt leaves for this purpofe are from a tree called by the Malays neepa; it grows in all Malay countries on low grounds, and, doubtleis, is to be found on the banks of the African rivers: it reiembles las it has no item) a coco-nut-tree iunk in the ground up to its leaves, Ilh bears a coarie'fruit as large as a man's head, which divides into kernels of the iize of a hen's egg; part of which may be eat, but it is infipid: it alfo gives a teddy, from which at eda they diltil a p;rit. The teddy is got as from the coco-nut-tree· Drifts of this neepa are often een in the SiraSI of Malacca and Bnca, like Aoating iflancts; theleaves are about five or fix inches broad, and are iewed together, overlapping one another about one inch, and, being from five to reren feet long, make an excellent ihelter from rain, as the water does not foak, but runs off; unlike the fpongy flags with Nhich on Bnga( river they cover boats. This leaf alfo, folded over,a thin lath of bamboo cane, about two Mr. Thomas Newton, in his Remarks on the Slave Trade, iays, he has been for weeks together in boats on the rivers in Afrira, and for days together has not had a dr ftitch on him. I am uncertain, if thqv have the nccpa in Bmgol. T inches Page 128 rz'd Tnches broad, and fix feet: long, forms what they call attops, with which they univerfally cover houi'es in Malay countries';:- "rhe tripod malt was made of three flout baPboos; any light pars would do as well: the two feet abreaft were bored at the lower end acroie, with holes about: three inches in diameter; and thik holes received the two ends of a piece of timber which, like a main thaft, went acroCs: on thei`e the two ends of the two abreait pirts of the tripod tutned as on a hinge. The fore part of the tripod mafl, like a main itay, was fixed forward to a knee a mid- ihips, with a forelock: by unlocking the forelock the malt is Rruck in a moment. A block is firred with two feet, to go into the upper ends of the two parts of the tripod that are abreait; or, upon occarion, a tail-block may be tied to the top of the tripod, as the mariner may judge heft, which I have often done; and this, by Evivellin about, keeps the tye or haliard from chaff- ing io much as it is liable to do in a fixed blck, where it is more donfined. " Coverings of the fagoe palrm, much tiled at MaginJano, are reckoned to laA 8 years; tile nrepa only follr. The ou palm on Sumatra gives a black iubftance, like horSe-hair, called, at Malarra, gummaty, which, as a covering for houi`es, will lait:40 years; it is elaitic, like coir, and makes excellent cables and cordage, that defy being wet even with frtlh water, which ioofl rots coir cables, if not expofed to the air. Salt water does not sffe coir fo much. 1'IIOUGHTS "Thoughts on the Best Mode of Preserving Sea Provision; or, of Victualling Ships in Warm Countries." Page 129 H O U G H S OM THE BEST MODE OF PRESERVING SEA PROISLOI'; OR, OB VICTUALLING SHIPS IN 7VARM COUNTRIES, W HEN I coniider the uncomfortable manner in whicl Cearnen often live on board men of war in EaJi-lndin, where f have reGded many years, and made there above twenty country voyages, compared with the manner in which the ikme expence the nation is at to maintain them might snable them to li·ve, I hope the following remarks will meet with a candid perui`al. I chiefly condemn the improper mode of preierving beef and pork not only in E-ldia, but in Et-opP, and what immediately follows that imyroper mode, but ieems ioiieparae from it, and linked to it, the improper mode of drelfing the fame, imply boiling; how widely different from the manner in which the country black ikilors, called Lafears, live in I;rdia, many of which are daily iPen in the itreets of London i The Etcropean raiiors in country IiDS are f;enerally one to five Lai'cars, and go under the- name of clu"'t"'-maiters: they are vici-ualled as iailol-s ar·e in Europe; that is, they have falt beef and pork, and rice inltead of bread, Cometimes Berigal biicuit; good cargo rice, as it is called, and of which the Laicars are allowed about zlb. per day, is never reflred the Blnvprans, and it is i`erved to them hot twice a day; at 8 in the mlol·ninsr, and 5 in the evening. T2 I never Page 130 130 ) I never hailed to make a remark, that theEe Europeans, tvjth a kind of diCcontent, took notice that the blacks lived better than they: but the Lafcars did not colt in viaualling above one half of what was laid out to vitual the Europeans, The L,ai`cars allowance was plain rice, doll, a kind of vetch, 2 Ib. of ghee (butter) per month, and one rupee filh money; with which, and, no doubt, part of their own 6 or 7 rupees per month pay (of which on voyages they have 2, 3, or q, months advance, according to its expeted length), they lay in a itock of articles, which an European would hardly think of, and many of n-hich they would deiiiie, not knowing their value, The Europeans had beef and pork full allowance, in which there was a iamene-; it could not be drefied but in one way, as already obierved (boiling)l and I am perCu-aded, their exerciie being but i;nall, it was, when daily ui`ed without change, un- healthy food, not fit for a hot countr,v. Zatterly I altered my mode of viRualling my Europeans: the beef and pork 1[ can·ied to iea with me were iklted free of bone, and cut in finall flices, with a mixture of Come coarie i`uSar: this kept much better than in the ullalway, and took up much leis room, I made the following ufe of itt I caufed it to be freihened with inlt water let in upon it in a tub never larger than the half of a hogihead or' gang-caik land often muc.h Ernaller), which was p"'forated by many holes at the bottom: this being done for G or S hors, 1 gave it, after draining, a rinie with a rmall quantity of frefh w·ater, pc'haI)S half a pint of water to a pint of meat las I muf notvta!k of meat, not by the piece or xveight, but by meaiure). LZein thus rinfed, the frefll water, now become iB)t, was let run off`; then a certain quantity of India butter, called gber (ool oil would do as well), was put into the copper or iron r!ut, and jult let come to boil; then the dl-ained meat was thrown uI;O' the boiling gee, which tjeing ftirred a few minutes, the roots a,13 r:ctaEles, nlbatever kj,,d nlas on board, were thrown in, with a very Page 131 '3I a very little freih water, and de whole ib itopped by a well-fitting cover, that the contents were rather, as is often termed, digecd than itewed, coniequently iboner done; by this means iaving fuel. The Laicars would never touch any thing but what their own cook (Banderey) dreired; and they fometimes mixed fiih and fleih (dried beef called ding-ding) together, making a iavoury diih, of which the Europeans had no objetion to partake. The vegetables were yams, or potatoes, either the European (nom common in Calcutra), or the iweet (called Spanik!, onions, raw,or preferved in vinegar made of teddy drawn from tFie coco-nut-tr·ee; cabbage-iprouts dried in the fun, and io preierved; pumpkins, which keep long at fea, being hung in the air; mangoes cut green from the tone, and dried in the iun (plums and`apples would correipond; a little tamarind, and that great antiicorbutic, ialted limes, lemons, of oranges m, of which, the lime particularly, the Lai`cars carry always a itock to iea, preierved with ialt (callin$ it achar); a few ounces of cayan pepper (capficum, very common in England, would correiond); and, lait of all, an emuliion made by pouring hotlwater over a·ripe coco-nut raiped down: this emulfion, though grateful to the taite, is bad for the ftomach ran; 'but, when boiled a little, is exceedingly well flavoured and antiicor- butic; the raped coco-nut, well fqueezed, is generally thrown to the fowls. A itew made in the above manner, varying the ingre- dients, vas ierven tn·ice a day, and was exceedingly palatable, never too ialt; for -I apprehend the roots and vegetables, in digeftin further extraAed the i`alt from the meat: and the whole expence for the Europeans was much lefs than when I bought Europe provifions, and they rere better pleaied. The itev, ierved out with a ladle, was eat with rice, ibmetimes with bread, and vas called curv. A iailol· on boal·I of a man of war has on meat days a piece of ialt beef, or pot-k, boiled for dinner; pobly it is all eat up at one meal; if any remains for next day's breakfait, how uncomfortable is the cold crap i BreakFait in all countries, but efpecially in hot 9 It may ieem itrane to a Londoner to preierve fweet oranges with Talt; but what is to be done i: the poor Chllia L;ITcars canllot zfford lirgar i countries, Page 132 I32 ) countries, ought to be a very comfortable meal. For the many years I have Palled in India, I never let any body go on duty, if tiere was the leatt chance of their being from the fhlp after 8 o'clock, but they breakfaften firili; and the cooks were often ap t da-liglit, to dreCs a hot breafait for Erch as went early o:1 iflole. If ex-poied to the inR for any tihne without breakfaft;, they 1-etunled on board often Tick at the itomach; but oterviCe, could bear the fun a whole day \S'irhollt complaint: tey fomctimes carried pots in the boat with them, and cooked on kore, according to circumftances. I have iuppoed this mode of viEtuallSna for warm countries; but I ke no reaZon why it may not be adted at home. I have iaid that meat, cut from the bone in iinall pieces, was preferveJ, with iame Eugar mixed with the Palt; but: as in frelheni·g it the iufl;ar was carried off with the Palt, I grudged lofing what Purely was very wholeiorrte : Z therefore Poon changed my method, Long before I went rlt to 2ilLa, which was in I751 fhe Par- tuSueCe uPed to yreierve fiiil cut in iinall pieces with Gt· and lug-ared tamarind; and I frequently caried to Pea with me Gcured ly Yortugaeie women of CrlrNsf nrho· make a trade of it) a tole- I-able proviiion for my own table: they call it pePche molio. L never found the fiih- they thus prei`erved a bit too Palt; it required only to be fried in tile tamarind *, c. which covered it, adding a little butter or gheP -. Both iugar and tamarincl are vel-y cheap in Ren,rrdl; and latterly I took the h.int, and preierved meat with one ti7 ird part lt, and two thirds ilgalecl tamarind ; throwing away the itoncs and itrings of tile tamafind, and adding a Pmall ployortion of caya,l pePPe' (c"pGcUm); and never was obliged to frelhen the ilices of ment n:hen a good denl of vegcstables was itewed with it, * I obrerved the r3marind difiilved the CmaH bones of the f;ih, and doubt not but Ihnt feme flron vinrgar would anNer te ia!ne purpcre, made from certain fruits in !:l;land; tamarind i-night theii be diri,e::fed with. ·t G:iie is reliv butter, I,ut it is melted Lefi,re it is packed, to make it keep. Page 133 n33 If this js'tried at home, let not the difficulty of Setting tamarind and ialt be an objetion; itrong vinegar I apprehend will do. Here I cannot help remarking how eafily, even without cul- ture, tamarind, coco-nuts, limes, and oranges, cayan pepper, Src. would grow on the Babama 52nnds. The coco-nut-tree delight6 in a Pandy foil; even bare iand only will do, without any Poil, for their produaion; and Palt water filtrated through fand, or I-ather brackiilh water, i-ems to.nourifh the coco-nut-tree. The nut muft be gathered ripe, and by all means kept in the hufk. Pi great manlzfature of Oil alight be made from them, to iupply the Yp,6#zHa Indf; and vinegar may be made of its teddy or juice, which iffwes from th ilahr that bears the fruit, it being cut acroi`s, and a pert being tied to it. The nut, when ripe, willkeep man months in the huk. I ee no reaibn why they might not be ured at home, if what I ·am going to igy ispzt in praAice. Let fhe beef killed for tile navp be cut in aices from the bone, and prcferved with one h·aif ialt, and one half iugar, or one third Jalt, one third iugar, and one third itrong vinegar. Let the hogs be flr;FnneQ, and;preiervd in the fame manner; cutting out in both beef and ork the .infide parts pf the iirlclins, to be preierved apart. The -flrin sf the hogs willa7ake a.aout leather: e bones may .certainly be put-to fome uSe; he juices of which, when barrelled la.p, not comi ho contaEt with the d`alt, inclines the whole to pu·cbion; and their room Paved in ftowage is above one fourth Ilart, I hall Iuapoiithere is ·an iFon pot Ear 160 men, in ihich I pl·o- ·pbe to dreis thein two ·meals ady ; the firt to be.zeady at 8 or 9 o'clock in rhemorning, the i^econd .as ihall be found convenient; and toth to:be arefieci in te following i?nanner : Let 50 ounces of but- ter or oil be put into the heated iron pot; this will immediately boil: to this throw.in 100 ounces of pork, and 300 ounces of beef; tile Page 134 I34 ) the pork firit; which mull be ftirl·ed about for a few Ceconds be- fore the beef is thrown in: whatever may be ared of the pickle is to be thrown in alio. Let this itcw for a little while; then, having ftil·red it nlell, put in the roots, iburcrout, and other vegetables, and cloie it well up to digeit. it will be foon ready; and if, juit before it is ready, there be added a c]uarter of a coco-nut " for each man, or 25 coco-nuts raiped down, and an emulfion made from it for Ioo men, and to thewhole be added a handful of capiicum, the mefs, to be ferved out with the ladle, will be both igvoury and wholeibme. I need not iay, if flour is added, ib much the better, or raiGns, prunes, or figs; but eipecially limes, lemons, or oranges, preferved with lalt and lugar mixed, ld the vinegar thrown in that has preierved iinal onions, or whatever eli'e. See page 40. I do not apprelend, when there is a good ftock of roots, fruit, gtc. that the curry will be too iBlt; nay, I am perfuaded, pork, having much fat, wants but little ialt. My having generally ufed half iBlt, half iugared tamarind, which aniivered very well, makes me uncertain of the effeAs of half alt and half iuar preciCely. Fifty bilcuits might be colle(5ted from the Ioo men, and broke into She curry; for I apprehend, the more is ftewed with the meat, the more will the ialt of the meat be extraEted from it: and what I have faid about the coco-nut is only when it can convei Jliently be had; when not to be had, there is fich choice at home of fruits and roots capable of being prei`ervd and carried to i`ea, that 3 fincerely hope our valuable and brave igilors may hereafter profit from theie hints, made by a perion of great expe rience. The Malays, amongt whom I have been a great deal, often put into the wet ground, tied up in a cloth, a kind of bean until it vege- tates; this they put into their currys, Why they on ihore kould do io, I cannot tell; but, taking the idea from them, I have done much the fame at fea, with a kind of pea, called doll or gram in India. I iteeped the peas in water until they iielled, and then + The imell of the coco-nut kernel, when rancid, is very offcnfivc: it then mull be maJe into oil, and the fire cures the offenrve imell, put Page 135 15 ) put into a box upona layer of·earth; then another layer of eartH,· and another of the peas; according as the weather was moiit or dry, they were ·iprouted,- and fit to be curried or flewed: the fame mode was repeated, and fucceeded. When they lay long, the lid· of the box iiYelled up, I am confident many boxes or caks may be filled in this man- ner with alternate layers of peafe, beans, or any other proper feeds, and mould, and in three or four days give a large quantity of wholefome vegetable highly antiicorbutic, and upon as large a cale as may be wiied: the larger the ihip, the more is the room· and convenience for the operation.- The fame operation may be repeated, with the fame cafks, or boxes, and the fame earth, to:· great advantage: the calks, headed up, may be put awaE- for the time; but, during rain, ihould be expofed to the tveather, and then a hot holdwill force vegetation quickly. PoiTbly, a vegeta-- ble io much in infancy, if I may ib peak, iteyed with iuch meat may the rather extraEt its ialt. r found pumpkin feeds, managed in this manner, aniiver exceedingly well; the ieed iplits into two large leaves, which preiently iivell, and were excellenteat raw with. oil and vinegar, Our fleet was ib fickly when Mr. Hughes lait` met Mr. Suffein,· that IIoo men were iknt lick on ihore. Mr. Suffrein, when at Atcieen j, r?82, got, bedes bullocks, plenty of vegetables r the French deal more in itews than we do, which iuit better with warm: countries. When ieamen are iick, they nauieate their ordinary food. The above-mentioned itores of roots, fruits, vegetables, c. which are ib eaGly preferved, and the expence of which is io-· trifling, afford many ways of gratifying a rckly weak appetite:. and many other modes· by profeled cooks may be hit upon, to vhich I do not pretend. I would recommend imaI1 onions in preference to any other vegetables: I found the Bengal iinall onion, of which 80 Ib. is to be had for a I·upee, eafily preferved with vinegar. Of onions iailors al-e rernarkablp fond;. and theTr U afford. Page 136 affot-ilg:-cat noillllnent F. I have ohfervd the beef.and pork !`alted in Eenga for both country ihips and the navy, ·in :the common way ioon grew Iancid, owing, doubtleCs, to the bone not dieing taken out. Millions of coco-nuts in EnJE-rlit are carried from the Nicotar and Carnrlcodar Iflznds to PL·Su, and whole cargoes fold for ro or ;2 rupees per Ioo, as has been iaid in the IntroduAion to this nror. There ar·e alib cargoes of ihrimps, beat upinto a paite and dried in the fun, often carried in boats in bulk up to Avn, the capital of PEZC : they call it blatchonsr, or barlychong. Shrimps are found in immenik quantities at the mouths of the deep muddy rivers on the eafi: coait of the Say of BeMgal, more than on the well coait, where the rivers are igndy and ihallov. The Pegzr coco-nuts are inferior to thoie that gr·ow near the fea; therefore they are fond of thoi`e from the iflands lying off their coaft. Seamen ihouldd have tea i`erved out to them: tea on fllore, to hard-nror-kin people, is not to compare to malt liquor; but at fea, where there is no labour that can be called hard,,at: leaft in the navy or EnJZ-ndb ihips, tea, as a cooler oT diluter, is whole- bme. Lefs than q.ounces of tea, value 6 pence, and 4 ounces of iugar, value 2 pence, will make 16 pints of tea for 16 men, \Trhich is 2 firthings per man: iilrely, this Cprved twice at-day is no great matter. For rao men Tq, Or 15 gallons, allowing for waite, iPlouldd be put into the oppoiite pot to the digeitmg pot. They illould have it made for them, eliie they will be apt to neSlen it: at the fame time, as many at their command may wiih to have tea, ich ihould be pllowed, i`omehow, to have a little by Furchai`e againit their wages, or otherwife. I have always ob·ierved, when iailors drink tea, it weans them from the thoughts of drinking itrong liquors, and pernicious grog; and with tea they are ibon contented--not: Jo w'ith whatever will mtoxicate, be it what it will: this has always " I have heard a itory of a Highlander in Scotland travelling a great way, with the iupport of a few onions.and bread only. een Page 137 Ir )` 't,, my remar; I therefore always encouraged it without their knowing why. Coffee has the fame good effe%t; alio cocoa, or chocolate: on any particular exertion pirits may be mixed-with the tea-water, as the Dutch call it, Salted tamaiind alone will cure fik perfeitly: theconiime ihould be tempted with variety, and ugared tamarind ihould be imported duty free; but as iugared tamarmdi mixed wih· iPirits, will make good ihrub, to prei`erve the iugar revenue, it ihoo'ld be mixed with iglt; as then, although it is fit to cure beef, pork, or peiche molia,.it is unfit for mrub. If not ialted in the We/Z-lndicr, it ihould be mixed with iglt on the Cuftom-houik cluays: ib oot is mixed with iglt that is deitined for manure by revenue-officersl- The Dutch are a wife people, but flow::had they tamarind at' their door, they long ago, I i`ui`pecit, mould have exported fiih to- the Mediterranean, cured with it and ialt, with or withoutiugar, What a field for the northern fiiheries i filh curedwii·ialt and a itrong acid, and inoked.· The Laicars uie i8lted tamarind very much; and it is aitoniih- ing to fee the Dandys (boat-people) in Bengal work as they do, who eat vegetables only, with a very little fiih, and drink water;. Before Iconclude I cannot help humbly fnggeiting, that, in general, J think our iailors ufe too much animal food, and too little vegetable, of which onions, four crout; French beans, and. fmall cucumbers pickled, may be given them at a ver)r imalliex-·· pence:.and iome diminution may be made of the immen`e exT- pence Government is at for flelh.meat.. Grrfon-Streert near F;lrray Chapel, 3ne 11, I789· I did myiklf the honour of communicatings the above to Sir JDieph Banks, who favoured me with the following reply: U2 "f Sir; Page 138 r3'8 'c Sir Jofeph Banks preients his compliments to Captain Forreit, -cc and returns his obikrvations on the beit mode of vitualling 'C ihips in hot climates, and thanks him for the peruial of it. He (Lis Of opinion, that ome of the matters contained in them 'L are likely to be uCeful to commanders of ihips;; but fears that: ((the minute detail, in whidh their utility chiefly coniiits, will " render the execution of them impraticable on the large icale " neceary for the viAualling of a i`quadron. " Sobo Spzlare, Jzme zq, 2789.', ·The opinion of -the -Prefident of the Royal Society, w'ho has ·failed round the world, I think ought to have great weight in this bufineis. A fair trial might at leait be given to it, by letting a ihip's crew be vitualled one week this way, and another week the .old way: but old ejudices are hard to be eradicated; and with- out trouble improvement cannot be made in any thing, gDE PF Idea of Making a Map of the World. Page 139 3[ · D E a OF A R I N% A M P O F 9 H lEI O R Z D, IN the account of my voyage to NLyu Gui2ea I forgot to men- tion fhat, _ar my leiiure at Mindano during the ·SW monibon, I coni2ruaed upon two thick plankg well pinned together, a map of the world; it was 81 feet: by 4I, allowing a margin, and when finiihed, by cutting a itrong outline to mark both continents and iflands (taken from a iinall -pah chartg it was-hung up in Rajah Moodo's hall, where, unles deitroyed by fire, it is likely long to remain: whiM paper maps, had I had fuch to prefent him, tvould, it is moit likely, be loit, tore, or negleAed (iEe the print: of the Magindano marriage). Since then, I have -often iaJd to myfelf,` during my folitary aquatic travels, Why does nobody turn a level verdnt plain of a very few acres into a map of the world When iometimes mventlon is itretched to lay out grounds with tafte in the gardens of inen of fortune, iuch a thing i`urely would not either be abiurd -or unure- ful. I rather think the contrary; the projeEt could not be at- tended with great expence, would be pleaignt and healthful to young folks, eipecially in the execution, and make very young perfons expert in iimple geography,· far beyond what they get from book·s and maps even at a more advanced age. Let Page 140 I4·o ) Eet·a -otoflevel ground, 360 yards in length from eait: to: nreit, and 180 yards in breadth from north to ibuth, be inclofed; by a n·all tin theie direaions) of a very- imall height, perhaps one or ttvo feet; let 36 marks be made on the eait and weit walls, and: 18 be made on the north and iouth walls, to fix thedegrees of longitude and latitude at Io degrees, or 600 miles aiunder; Jet 4 pieces of oak timber be made 31 feet long, and 8 inches fquare,, with holes bored in them at the diitance of 3 inches,· or 5 miles,,. ftom one another: thus, 36 inches, or 3 feet, on this piece of timbes (\Yhicfi is eafily· tranCported and pus under cover, and Tvhich I callSca(e) are a degree; and the whole cale Io degrees or boo miles in length 3 Thefe icales-being placed upon or ftuck in the ground at anr· of the large diviGons of Io degrees made on the walls, and oppo- iite to·each other, afford an opportunity, by crois·lolines, or· 17"ckthread, of determining the particular town, city, or head. Irtlid, that is to be marked on this map, in the fame manner as upon a iheet of paper on a table, with a gunter-fcale and a pair of compaires. The.continents and iflandsrrmaybe made in turf, the iea-in E;'·avel: the boundary or outline may be a hard terrais made of mortar, pieces of flate fixed in mortar, or the marrow bones of bullocks; hich iome forty years ago I have ieen beyond White- chapel ued as a.kind of fence near the turnpike road (this may be remembered by many); or a border of common box may be planted, as is. uiual in many gardens, At particular places on this ocean of gravel'poRs may be fixed up, indicating particular circumitances of monibons, tradewinds, " An equator and middle meridiarrsf terrars made narrow and low, and graduated at each to degrees, would facilitate the conftrution of the map by dividingthe whole into four, and admit the ]ogIines to be aiorter.. and Page 141 -rir and currents, c. prevailing in particular Farts, to amufe the con- templative owner, who, taking a few turns before breakfait on the iurface of this flat globe, zehere Nnrzcre's volme is attEmpfed fo be eeidely e.vpoSed to view las Thomibn i8ys), the powers of his mind expand; and he will, I am periuaded, be often inclined to iay,-- This is obvious; Z fee this circumitance in a new light from what I formerly learned from books and maps-only. I fee a pacIhge from the Downs to mdia is nothing: the difficulty dii-ypears, compared with the hardhiys and fatigue of failing in narroY i-as. Here ieems tolive kind eaiP; whilit in a pairaSe from London to Newcaitle, what with anchoring and weighing every I2 hours, reefing and handing of fails, heaving the lead, c. in a diitance of lefs than 300 miles, and perhaps 7 or 8 times in a i`ummer, a young man muit learn the duty of a i-aman. Such refletions will natu- rally occur to the contemplative mind, and many others of the fame nature. I therefore take upon me to i^ay, that the idea of making iuch a may is worthy of a prince, and within the reach of a private gentleman to put in ·execution. I thinkit wouIcvely much adorn the villa of the miniaeir Of-a great commercial na- ion; nay, even the palace of Royalty itielf, 3C.H E E.M D, ©2010 Cornell University Library