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MISSION

TOTHB

EAST COAST OP SUMATRA.

To Sill JOHN RAE REID, Bart.

Havino enjoyed the libend patronage of you?
bte excellent Father, during a period of nearly ten years aer-
vioe in one of the moat distant possessions of the Honourable
East India Company, and been occaaionally honoured with a
oorrespondenoe, in which he erinced the deep interest whidi
he felt in all that related to the prosperity of that distinguished
body of which he had long been one of the most indefatigable
and sealotts representatives ; it was my wish to have dedicate4
to him this volume. That eminent individual being unfbrtii*
nately removed by death, I know none to whom I may widi
80 great propriety offer the result of my labours, as to one
who, as he piously cherishes the memory, is well qualified to
emulate the virtues, and to tread in the footsteps, of my mudi
lamented patron and friend*

The objects of my mission were manifold, but the principal
were the extension of commerce, and the introduction of Bri-
tish manufiictures into regions but little known, thou^
abounding with inhabitants, and rich in the most valuable
productions. I trust that my Ubours will ultimately prove

beneficial to the commercial interests of this settlement. At

•

ail events, it will be a consolation to me to think, that yoa

CaMooiMi Mncurj Fnm.

.«

^ f

.V J

r\ \

v> .' .

•jC'

MISSION

TO THE

EAST COAST OF SUMATRA,

IN M.DCCC.XXm,

UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE
GOVERNMENT OF PRINCE OF WALES ISLAND :

INCLUDING HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES OF THE

COUNTRY, AN ACCOUNT OF THE COMMERCE, POPULATION, AND

THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE INHARITANTS, AND A VISIT

TO THE BATTA CANNIBAL STATES IN THE INTERIOR.

BY JOHN ANDERSON, ESQUIRE.

LATK AORNT TO THK GOVERNMENT OF PRINCE OP WALES ISLAND, AND DEPUTY
SRCRETARY TO GOTBRNMRNT, AND MALAY TRANSLATOR.

-•

WILLIAM BLACKWOOD, EDINBURGH : AND
T. CADELL, STRAND, LONDON.

M.DCCCXXVI.

A^.////^^^

I U? 11 1909 j

u^-

•*.•

flvt^-o.xAa Wio^H^'^l^.X

CONTENTa

Dedication to Sir John Rae Reid, Bart

IfmODVCTlOV.

JooenaIm

HUTOBT.

Afpindix.— >1. InstmcdoDs to Mr Ibbetaon.

2. Memonjida of Heads of Inqoirj.

3. Captain Crooke'a Report of Jamfai.

4. lostmctiona to self.

5. Pieces of dotha pnrdiaaed cm acoonnt of Oo-

remment.
Ditto. — A. Statement of Fees on Frowt and Tonnage^

B. Do. of da on square rigged Vessels

C. Census of Pcynlation.

D. Exports and Imports firom 1 816-1 7» to

1822-33.
£. Account of the Pepper Trade from 1814-lfs

to 1822-23.
F. Memorandum of Pepper sent to China.
O. Quantitj of Pepper imported from East

Coast of Sumatra.

t_-^

PLATE&

Bogi and Ktpah FruiU, 46

Large Pimwn at Langkaf.— /*teg, . . . . ib.

Karau KarauBattaafinomTiiiguig,iii]aiidof DeUi, 49

BatU Cottage up tbe BuUi Chiaa, .... iS

Remarkable Tree at Malaiiar, in Uie Delli rirer.~^Flsie, ib.

Detcriftim, 41

Cannibal BatU from the Interior of BatuBaim, Itl

Tubba Batta Women at Amaban, . . . . 3w

AsembW of the Chiefs at Batubaxm, ... 119

Rajah of Munto PaneU a Cannibal Oiie^ .149

BatU Warrior from Seantar-«a <VfiniNI F'wfr^ . jbu

NatiTeofPadang,onUie£artCoMtorSiiB»tnu-i'&*, 149

BatU from the Borden of the Great Lake, . 14i

Tubba Slare in the Stod».~/*fale, . . . ftw

BatU and Maiajan Warlike LutniBenta, . . . 3H

Charu of part of Sumatra.
OmU of tbe Jambi Rhrcr-

To SIR JOHN BAE REID, Baet.

Sib,

Having enjoyed the liberal patronage of you?
late excellent Father^ during a period of nearly ten years ser-
vice in o^e of the most distant possessions of the Honourable
East India Company, and been occasionally honoured with a
coorrespondexice, in which he evinced the deep interest which
be felt in al} that related to the prosperity of that distinguished
body of which he had long been one of the most indefatigable
and zealous representatives ; it was my wish to have dedicated
to him this volume. That eminent individual being unfortn-
nately removed by death, I know none to whom I may with
80 great propriety offer the result of my labours, as to one
who, as he piously cherishes the memory, is well qualified to
emulate the virtues, and to tread in the footsteps, of my much
lamented patron and friend-

The objects of my mission were manifold, but the principal
were the extension of commerce, and the introduction of Bri-
tish manufactures into regions but little known, though
abounding with inhabitants, and rich in the most valuable
productions. | trust that my labours will ultimately prove
beneficial to the commercial interests of this settlement. At
all events, it will be a consolation to me to think, that you

.*"'

will receive tliis dedication as an humble but sincere tribute
of the respect and gratitude to you and your family, with
which I have the honour to subscribe myself,

Sir,
Your most obedient and obliged humble Servant,

THE AUTHOR.

INTRODUCTION.

It was observed forty years ago by Mr Marsdcn,
autlior of the History of Sumatra, that this island,
JiotwithstandiDg its importance and fertility, had
been unaccountably neglected; and that it was
less known in its interior parts than the most re-
mote island of modem discover)'. This remark
still applies to the eastern coast, of which Mr
Marsdcn has given a very hasty sketch. In order
to give at once a correct view of tlie different places
on this coast, which have been either described or
mentioned, I shall enumerate such as have been
noticed by Mr Marsden, and shall then give a
brief sketch of the several missions sent finm
I^inang, with their objects and their results. By
a comparison of these, it will be at onoe seen what
was left for me to perform, and what I have been
c nablcd to add to the general stock of geographical
knowledge.

In the history of Acheen, and of the struggles
made by the Portuguese at Malacca, mention is

XII INTRODUCTION.

made of Timiang. — ♦ " The governor (Alba-
^ querque)," says Marsden, ** on his return from
** Malacca, met with a violent storm on the coast
** of Sumatra, near the point of Timiang, where
^ his ship was wrecked.**

Delli is frequently mentioned in the annals of
Acheen, and must have been a pUce of some con-
•equenccf In the year 1618, the king of Acheen,
Iskander Muda, is styled sovereign of Delli,
amongst other places. | In IGIQ^ Delli was con*
quered by Acheen. ** This last place (Delli) had
f been strongly fortified by the assistance of the
^ Portuguese, and gave an opportunity of display-
^ ing^much skill in the attack. Trenches were re-
^ gularly opened before it, and a si^e carried on
^ fiir nx weeks ere it fell." I was unable to trace
any records of Portuguese establishments at Delli ;
but an ancient and strong fortification in a muti-
lated state, is still to be seen in the interior, about a
day's journey. In 1641, Ddli was ravaged by the
)dng of Acheen, and the inhabitants carried off!

* Martdeo't Somstny page 409.
t Ibid, page 439.
; Ibid, piige 441.

INTRODUCTION. Xllf

*^^ Bat this barbatous policy did Hot produce the
effect he hoped, for the unhappy people bdng
brought naked to his dominions, and not allowed
any kind of maintenance on their arrival, died of
" hunger in the streets." In 1669, t*' ^^ people
^ of Delli on the north-eastern coast threw off
'« thehr allegiance, and the power of the kingdom
^* (Acheen) became gradually more and more cir-
*• cumscribed."

Batubara and Assahan are also mentioned ; but
there is considerable inaccuracy in tl^ names of
the places and their situations. X^^ "^he little
** kingdom of Butar lies north-eastward of the pre-
^ ceding, * and reaches to the eastern coast, where
^ are the places named Pulo Serong and Batubara,
^the latter enjoying a considerable trade; also
^* liongtong and Sirigar,'' (there is a place called
Serompang about three days journey inland, but I
could not ascertain that there were ever any such
as Longtong and Sirigar) ** at the mouth of a great
** river named Assahan. Butar yields neither

* Marsden's Sumatra^ page 446.
t Ibid, page 448.
t Ibid, page 336.

XtT INTftODUeriOH.

«t

ftC

u
it

camphor, benmin, nor goM, and the hihabitanti
support themselves by cultivation. The residence

** of the king is at a town of the same name.

*^ High np the river Batubara, which empties it-
self into the Straits of Malacca, is found a laif;e
brick building, concerning the erection of which
no tradition is preserved amoi^^ the people. It

** is described as a square, or several squares, and at

one comer is an extremely high pillar, supposed

by them to have been designed for carrying a
flag. Images or reliefs of human figures are

** carved in the walls, which tliey conceive to be

'' Chinese (perhaps Hindu) idols. The bricks, of

^ which some were brought to Tappanuli, an!

^ of a smaller size than those used by the English.*

Scarcely a vestige of this old ruin (which was no

doubt a Hindu temple, of which there are many

on the island of Java, and of the existence of whidi

religion there are numerous traces in diffisrent parts

of the east coast of Sumatra), now remains. The

disturbed state of the country at the time of my

arrival, prevented me from inspecting this curious

building.

A brief description of Siack, gathered from the

survey of Captain I^ynch, is given ; and the river

4€

a
a

INTRODUCTION. XV

Rakail, to the northward of Siack, is mentioned as
the krgest on the island, as it unquestionably i^.
Mr Marsden remarks, * that '' the survey of Siack'
''river by Mr Francis Lynch is much wanted,
^' and the interior of the country is still very itn-
** perfectly known."

It is stated by Beaulieu in 1662, that '' the na-
tives of that part of the island which is opposite
to Malacca, are called Battas, eat human flesh,
and are the most savage and warlike of all the
« land.'*

- The foregoing are the only places on the east
coast comprehended between Diamond Point and
Slack, which are mentioned by Marsden. Beyond
the latter place, Kampar, Jambi, Indrigiri, Palem-
batig, &c. ^re slightly noticed. That part of the
coast between Siack and Indrigiri, is still very im-
perfectly known.

The navigation of the Straits of Malacca on the
western side, has till lately been almost unknown.
It is remarked by that indefatigable hydrogra-
pher, who has extended our nautidal knowledge
so considerably, and is every day adding some^

^ Marsden's Sumatra, pages 356 and 357-

XVI IHTEODUCTION.

thing new to his valnable Dirtetory, that ^ ^ die
^ Sumatra ooart, from Diamond Point to thb
Anoa islands, is all km and woody, firontiflg; ^
sea, containing several rivers flnd villages, he^
« quented only by coasting prows, or other smaB
*' vessek ; consequently little known to EuopeaBS.'*
And again, *' Batoo Bara, opposite to the Brothers,
^ is situated on the bank of a river, from whence
** the natives export in their prows to Prince of
^ Wales Island and Malacca, rattans and other
^ articles of trade. The river is navigable by small
^ vessels at high water ; but the natives being per-
^ fidious, this place is seldom visited by Euio*
^ peans. From hence to Slack river, nearly oppo*
** site to Malacca, the coast of Sumatra is fitHe
** known ; it is all low land, the trees only appear*
^ ing above water, with several rivers and shoal
^ banks stretching out a conmderable way fiom the
^ shore in some places."

The Misaons of Captain Scott in 1806, and Mr
Garhng m 1807, to Kack, added but little to thl^
information we possessed; and Captain Lyndl%
Embassy in )808, being principally of a cmnmef-

• Honburgfa't Dirtctorf, ViO. II. puge 154.

IMTBODVCTION. XVII

cial natare» hu not mataially extended our ge^gn^
pUcal knowledge. Gdonel Faiquhar, when he
proceeded fiom Mahcca iu 1818, for the puipose
of finming a commercial treaty with the king of
Siadkt stopped at Bukit Batu, at the entrance of
the Stnuta of Tanjong Jatte^ and had not an op-
portnni^ of deacrihing the country.

It ia surpnnng^ although two British settlements
have heen established in the vicinity of that coasts at
the distance of only one or two days sail with a
fiur windt ud a very extensive commerce has been
canied on with several of the ports during the last
twenty or thirty yean^ that we should have known
ao little of the history or even the situation of
many places of ccmsiderable commercial importance.
This deficiency in our geographical knowledge ap-
pears to have been observed a few years ago»
by the present head of the Finang goveruraent,
wfaoae attention was more particularly attracted to
it by the increasing commerce between some of the
moie northerly ports, where the cultivation of pep-
per had commenced a few years ago, and by the
manifestation of a desire on the part of the chiefs
to cultivate a closer connection and friendly al-
liance with the British government The prcsi-

XVIII IKTEODUCTIO^.

dent 8eeiD8 to hare readily arailed himadf of m>
&TOi]iable an opportunity toir benefiting the fe-
renuea of the company, of opening new aouroes of
commerce to the commercial community cf Pinsng,
qS extending our knowledge of the aorrounditlg
sUtteBy and acquiring correct and predse informa-
tion regarding their condition.

With the new, therefore, of attaining such im-
portant oligecfaB, a mission was deputed in the
month of May 1820, under the charge of Mr
Ibbetson and Captain Crooke.^ The instructions
to these gentlemen, and the memoranda of the dif-
ferent points to which they were to direct their in-
quiries, sufficiently display the extensive fidd fot
observation that was before them, and the various
and extaisive information they were expected to
obtain. The best planned schemes, however, are
eSbea defeated by unforeseen accidents ; and the un-
fortunate indisposition of the commisrioner, Mr
Ibbetson, who was forced to proceed to Singapore
for medical asnstance, prevented the foil aceomi^ish-
ment of the olgects contemphted. The only ports
visited by the misrion were Jambi, Assahan, and

* Vid« Appendix I. and II.

IKTEODUCTION. XIX

wbae it does not ajqpear that they did more
than delirer the letters from the honourable the go*
Temor. The rqwrt of the head eommiwioner is
aLu^gether of a meet diMX)uragiDg nature^ and re-
pnioita the state of all the countriesp both those
which he viated, and those which he did not visit,
in a very uniaToarable light ; the inhabitants beings
seeording to thia aceount, universally addicted to
pnaey» and subsisting wholly upon plunder. At
Assshan and J>dli,the ambassadors merely visited
the two first villages near the entrance of the river.
CeiMsdering the very dear and perspicuous report
of Jambi by Loeutenant Crooke, (of which a copy
was given to me by the secretary^) and his well
kaoiwn ability, activity* and enterprise, the indispo*
sition q£ Mr Ibbetson, and the immediate return of
the nuanout is the more to be regretted, as there is
little doubt, that if he had prosecuted his inquiries,
there would have been little occasion for the mission
stt which I was dispatched.

The government, disappointed in the result of
this mission, and desirous of asoertaining more ful-
ly the navigaticm of the east coast, dispatched

• Vide Appendix lU.

XX INTEODUCTION.

the Honourable Company's cniiser Nautihis, uiw
der the directions of Lieutenants Rose and Morse-
by of the Bombay marine* in the middle of 188S,
to make a survey, which has added materially to
our knowledge of the navigation of that coast,
The principal part ci their sailing directions will
be found embodied in the History and Description
The only ports whidi these s u rv e yor s seem to have
visited were Delli» Batubara, and a place called
Banca in the Reccan. They made a rapid sketch
from Diamond Point to the Ejunpar river.

The perseverance of government in these in*
quiries into the state and condition of an ex*
tensive track of country, rich in the choicest pro-
ductions of nature, and abounding with a nume-
rous and highly interesting population, whose cha*
vacter, pursuits, and habits, we had but little ac-
quaintance with, has had the effect of disclosing a
variety of interesting settlements, navigable rivers,
&C. some of which were quite unknown, even by
name, and may, and no doubt will, lead to new
sources of wealth and commerce.

The peculiar direction of my studies and pursuits
having brought mc into contact witli many of the
natives from that coast, who were in the habit of re-

INTKODUCTION. XXI

sortiBg to Pmang for commerGial purposesf, and
from whom I derived a variety of information re^
lative to the different states, which induced me to
engage in fiurther inquiries Joined to my anxiety to
gain the approbation of government, impelled me to
volunteer my services on the occasbn, to the ho^
nourable the governor, who being pleased to accept
of them, I submitted to him a plan for the details
of the mission. How &i I have successfully execut-
ed the laborious task assigned to me, I leave to an
indulgent government to determine,disclaiming any
pretensions to scientifio acquirements, and boasting
of nothing beyond a moderate share of industry and
perseverance. I have in my narrative studied sim-
plicity ; and to describe what I observed, or giv^
^uch information as I obtained, as directed by the
instructions to the forpier agents, ^^ in the most
^ simple language, so that the supreme authorities
^^ may have the opportunity, as well as this govern?
^^ mept, of forming their own conclusions."

I should be wanting in gratitude, did I omit
to express my acknowledgments to those who have
9ided me in the accomplishment of the following

XXII INTRODUCTION.

work. To my respected friend^ the Honounhle
William Annstrong Qubley, Seooml Member of
Council, I am under no ordinary degree of obliga-
tion, lor his cordial support, in the first instance,
to the proposed Mission ; for his unifiirm attaitkn
in aiding me with his advice ; and for the many
suggestions and much valuable information, which
his long experience of nearly twenty years servico
(during which time he was principally Secretary to
Government), enabled him to give me. The lively
and energetic interest which he has always taken
IB promoting the welfare of this settlement, has
fully entitled him to the favourable consideration
of his superiors, and the distinction to which he
has lately attained.

Mr Maingy, a cotemporary of my own, has a
foil daim to my best thanks, for the readiness
with which he has always afforded information
from the custom-house department, of which be
has been the zealous and active deputy, and fre-
quently in cliarge, during several years past.

It would be unbecoming in me to omit offering
my thanks to the Honourable John Macalister,
First Memlx^r of Council, who gave his warmest
8upiK)rt to the projected Mission, but who unfortu-

INTKODUCTION. XXIIl

natdy was forced to quit the island soon after my
departure, in consequence of indisposition.

The Drawings were executed by a Chinese
draughtsman, under a great variety of impediments
and disadrantages, sometimes in great haste, in a
small boat. A few of them have however been im-
proved by a young man of considerable talent, an
assistant in one of the public offices of Government.

The sketch of the Jambi river is a copy of that
executed by Captain Crooke, and forwarded to
Government on his return from the Mission in
18S0.

The orthography of the Malayan words is gene-
raDy agreeably to Marsden, from whose Dictionary
I prindpaDy acquired a knowledge of the lan«
guage many years ago. Some occasional variations
in the dialect and orthography will however be
fimnd.

JOURNAL

OVA

MISSION

VO VHB

EAST COAST OF SUMATRA AND MALAYAN

PBNINSDLA.

YBCPABATKMrs YOR THE MiSStOft.

l%iaf^, aotklketmber ISiSL^Ammim toihe
ecMtt of Smnstni^ nd soine of the ports on the
penhitela of Malaccas havhig beepdetcrmipednpoi^
end ikB HonoanUe the Gorcmor having bete
pleiied to appvofe of certsm luggestioiui of mnie
Iv c myhig it mto cffiiet;, I piirduMed e tnulU me-
«lt cipride of jieifoiDmg the semoe^ of 75 toil%
the mnie of wfaicfa wtm chasged firom the Mam to

theJcaqr*

7tk Jamfary.— Having obtained ail ampkinp-
ptj of military stofes from the fort, for the defenoe
cif the vend, whidi mounted eight guns, via. two
11 fowidiff hnsi eemioimdcs^ four biass 6 pound-

2 INSTRUCTIONg.

crsp and two iron large swivels, as stem chasers,
I w^ted to-day fajr ap p uintui ePtf on the Honour-
able the Governor^ on the hill, and recdved my
instructions* personally fiom him, with the follow-
ing letters, yis. to the Kejuman Muda, rajah of
Langkat; SuI^[i3>i%ttm^'of DeUi; Sri Sultan
Ahmut of Bulu China; Sultan Besar of Sirdang ;
Nunku Bindahara and Pasgulus of. Batu Bara ;
Jang de per tuan, or rajah of Assahan ; king of
Siaek ; ngab (yTSalengore ; also my codnmsnon as
agent to the governor of Pinang, written in the
Malayan and English languages.

Sth January.— -Ibmng completely equipped the
brig in eight days, with stores and aU necessary
provisiona for three months, the escort^ consisting
of a havildar, naick, and fourteen picked men from
^eUgiii eompany of the seeood battalion SOdi re-
ffanent Besapl Native Infimtry, embarked thb
araniilg; and upon mimtermg all hands, I fimnd
tiMe were dxty*dflree ionli on bond, as fdlow8>-^
Ifr P« O. Cun^gy and Mr Brown, who Tolutt*
toerid to aoeonpany the minon ; Mr listing my
dodc; Fdix Nareis, steward ; a CSiiiieae dnmgfato^
mas, Blalay moondiee or writer, two Pten% and
one attendant, servant, cook, steward's boy, and
^gpUbe^ dittos native doctor, a ]^bt, a crew of

• VUt AnModis, Ns. 4,

BEPARTU&E.

wenn men attached to the fteonmiiodatioii faott»
dptaiiit two gummn^ three neicnimki, Satmlg,
Tindalt Canab, Topaz, Bandarry, Ghina caipenter,
Md teii Laieaia. There were twenty dietiiict
taeee of peoi^ on bpardt and^ with the exeeption
dT the ptfty of 8epoy8» flcitedy two wete known tt>
each other. There were Siamese Buiniahe, Am-
beynea^ Mahiya^ Biigge8e» Chodiahe, CSiineee
Chindiewy ditto Canton, Chittagong, Hindoetany,
Portngwcse, Maailh^ Caffire^ Makhar, Javaneaet
Fadan^ Batta, West India Creaky Danesi and
Gcmiana*

S/A/omiarsf^— I embarked on board the Honour-
able Company'a brig Jeaay, at 11 a. m^ and stood
out thronj^ the aonth channel, the HonouraUe
Ojmpany*a cmiaar Sylph in company* We had light
aim till we readied Pulo Rimau, when the breeae
AnahflPiBg about 9 o^dockt set all sail, and steered
&W.andbyW.fiirDellL The Sylph having ccm-
dncted na dear out of the channel returned about
audnigl^; aad the accommodatimi boat whidi I had
taken with me £» the purpose of ascending rivenH;,
with the native plot and seven men on board, kqpt
wmfuy tin 8 o*dodL in the mominf^ vrhen the
w^^ being dark and stormy, she parted from us.
I aassdratally came upon deck at tfaia tim% and
■Asring the boat, I ordered the brig to be hove ta
We stood on under easy sail during the remainder
aC Ibe ni^rtt. bmmiiiig lights, and fiilly expecting

4 RETUBN TO OEOBOE TOWN.

thU the* bott would be in rig^t in the moniiiig.
At mn-riae we looked fir her in tbui anmnd the
boriian.

KMA /(fliiiMfyw— This momiii^ the ishmd wim
diettiit fifott us eboat 85 miles. Made all sail
babk, a&d rounded Saddle ishmd with a Ifaie faveeK
siNmt five o^dock p. m., auchoring on the east side
of Ftalb Riman about mma. I immediately pio-
eeeded to town in a small Chooliah boat which
tam^t off the pilot, and reached the master at-
tendant's at midnight, after a hard pull against
wind and tide for five hours. Mr Wright had not
heard any tidings of our boat, and my anxiety
was so great, that I could not be prevailed upon to
go to bed ; and expectmg to see the boat come
down with the ebb tide during the night, I laid
mysdf down on the jetty, with a hard phmk for
my pillow, tin day-break, when I dispat^ed boats
Id Vrjtf Joorso, and other jdaces on the opposite
dme, to look tot the acomnmodation boat, while I
Went to explore the inner diannd between Pulo
Jengah a»i the idand Here I found the boat,
and readied tiie hng at nine a. u.

llH ifaiiiMPry.— Made all sail, and steered as
beftre 8. W. and by W.» standing across the
slaiti for DeilL At ten p. ir. the wind Uowii^
very fipesh^ the p3ot hailed, and informed me that
the tow rope of the Siam canoe had parted. The
idght being dark and tempestuous^ with a heavy

SUMATEA SfiORB. 5

wmSi on, I idwtantly >h«iidonad the anall hmt,
odl kept our jeoiinet tl» wind simag; «id lai^^
tomnto all night The Ion of tUs faeantiM bo«t^
pspoedy eoMtniBfeed fivr aaendu^ dudlow Bfen^'
flri jftBiBg Mn peddfes^ was a gieat iomvcnicBoe
to me; and I afterwards experienced die wank of
it Tciy amdL

vdk JbMiary.— ^Working across fhestauis;^ Ai
idm half tiie day. During the night, hard sqnaHir
with hieessant rahi, and a heayy swdl ; the yemA
Ubooring flonuh, and my people suffiring greatly
fimn sra siclmf ss and the crowded and confined
state of the tesseL Run under the foie-sail the
gttatet part of the night.

UUh January^— At day-break the low knd of
Ae Sumatra shore risible from the deck, and the
lattf a w un t ain pesks in the rear towering above
d» cknda. The few landmarks on this low woody
eoBSty lender it eztreaoely difficult fiur the naTigator
to ascfirts i n i with oorrectnesst his situation on mak^
agthelsAdtefcn with the aid of darts. To sup-
ply tfaia dcAflieney, it is necessary to keep a good
aeeomit of the distonee run, and the exart course;
hot I feud the oqptain had given himself little
toodble dbouk either. Theprojectingpoint of land
wfaieh ftftt stmdk our view to tiie westward, wasne*

he captain to be Diamond Pomt, (all

mudi alike to him,) but tins I knew

impesMUe^ from my own observation of the

8 .PULD UOtTINOJSINOHL

tfagstthieiPSDloBertiiigi^tiiigM* Aooonpuiiad b]F
Mr Bimm jmd fbor aoldiei% I kft the veiKl m die
•JMMiwinMi Jgflon boat ttt nooiu for the wirDotB of ex*
ploRBg the coMt» andendeevewifig to diieo?er the
DdlLnw. I proeteded dixeet linr the iahmd, b«t
ecpdA* not fl pw roech ne e iCT diaii. 1^ milet oQecoonot
i(f the^^Mgeeiuig faodJiuks and leefik The hng
rtoqd'in the wean time donin the coart nnder easy
aaU»wHhdiiedaonaftomaBetO;l«ngttp^ if wencse
uhiiiiiHd lb eatcr^ a xiFer. The fai% at thk |daoe
eottld ilofc j o bn ioach the ahore nearer tiuui six mfles*
I eoteted i^qiig in the boat in 4 feet wato^ idMsat
tiDeemikii when ne fiDund a fine r^okr channel
of 1 ifiK^omt diitant ficom the shore a third of a auk.
Standing fiom the northward^ distanee olF diira
half a mile^ 1 fiithom. Polo Berting«tinghi bear*
ii^ H. and by W. i W. Boln China rxrer point
bearing & i W. Centre of Delii river S. and by
& dittant 2| milei. Polo Berting-ting^ now ha?*
ing the appearance of firar gmall ropka diannited.
The Aote wrn. covered with numgnnre to the
wafedfa edge^ and the trees growing in the aea.
Hnndrada of. white sea-fairda were aeen on the |^
Itaiim^ aindi lianlii^ and along the ahore*

We enteed the Bufai China, or Kwab Bela.
wnv aboat S p. !€•» baring aonndinga near the
inondiy gradnaUy incroaaing fiom li to 9} and 4
fiwthffniffr T nt i d ft diara ia acawriy kn than 4
^lid 5 frrtV**^! £ir aer eral nilea np* W^e palled

MEETIKQ WITH THS CXLlXn.

«p^ «kI iMohed the flnt village, called Kam-
lUr, a little way up the amall fresh water

of DeUit abcmt half-part four. The Sul-r
tfla Paag^nui waa absent, being up the nwet
aW«t a dafli jooniejr, at Kota Jawa» where he
had been engaged in hortilitiefl with die Rjgah
PubBoriean and Rajah Graha, about a months
I had not wailed many minutes before the sultan's
eoDsin Tnanko Teongal, his son, and Noqueda
Usool* ftUowed by 80 or 40 attendants, came down
to Ae village wbae my boat was lying, and greet*
ed ae with a very oonlial welcome. They imme-
dialdy dispatched an expiess to the sukan, and
sent a pilot vrith me to bring the brig into the
Boln China river, as«she was lying at a mort in-*
eosveniflttt distanee outside. After a mutual inters
change of civilities therefore, I returned down the
river. The boat grounded on a sand-bank between
die Ddli and Bnlu China rivers, which, in her
weak and decayed state, caused the leak to increase
esmidenbly. At snn-set it commenced to rain in
Isncnts^ and Ae wind blew a perfect hurricane.
As it oreasienaHy deared up, we caught a g^pse
of the limits in die brig, whidi were hoisted for us;
boft daricnesa again returning, we were forced to
■nshor repeatedly. We continued in this harass*
ing and fiitignii^ operation during the nigh^ an^
and making sail not less than ten times ;

eemplstely drenched with rain^ and tho

10 WAR AT 0£LU.

people at last so much CThaiisted as to be oaaUe
to stand; a heavy swdl and breakers all aroimd
us ; the boat labomiiig ezeessively, and leaking so
muA, that two men with buckets oouid liardiy
keep her fiaee. Towards momuig the atmosfdiere
deared u^ and we took the opportunity of running
aiooflsscle*

I Snd that the trade of Delli is quite at a standi
in consequence of the diffiBrences of the ehicfii in
the interior. It seems to me^ therefine^ an object
of great importance to adjust the existing di^tes
as a prdiminary measure. The springs ave now ob^
and I most therefore calculate upon fimrtcen days
at least in the river, l/nder the present eiieum-
stances of the disturbed state of the country, I do
not fisel myself justified in quitting it, until I have
at least endeavoured to effect a reconciliation , which
would be extremely beneficial to trade. So long as
this stoppage exists, the injury to the native traders
and to Finang, will be seriously felt ; and should
the contending chiefe, Bigah Pulo Barian and
Giaha gain the superiority, a disastrous revolntkm
will be the result. As the present sultan has long
manifosted an anxious desire to im>mote the com-
meree cf the country, and to maintain a fioendly
idatioQ with Hnang, it is but justice and policy
finr me to aid him with my advice in this emergency,
imd to use my mediatii^ influence. I am ii^mn*
yd, timt foor of the sultan's party have just been

PaM£CT£D PJLAN8. H

kiDed in a pitched battJe. Paiigtima Fcang, one
cf Ins moti trastjr warrion; was amongst the slain^
«kI his head exhibited op a pike as a trophy of
vielorjr. Their engagements aie not generally Tery
Usody ; and tids is consideied a mcnno serious end
aangninary one than usual

IMA Janmary.—Mi Stewart, the commander of
a anaU schooner called the Suffidk, belonging to
Finangp and iridch was waiting at Delli fiar a cargo
cf peppefft Tolunteered to carry the brig into the
Kwidah Belawan. The gross ignorance of the
ooBMBaader of the Jessy, and his perfect inability
t9 canry the vessel in safety to the different pbces
1 have to viat to the westward ; the liability to
touch OB saond-banks, and the want of asostance;
tiie dowiied state of our vessel, and the probability
of disease breaking out ; the additional importance^
also^ whidi another vessel would give to the mission,
and the increased security against pirates; the
anudl draft of water of the schooner, (only feur
&st when light), and the actirity and knowledge
af several of the ports possessed by the captain, wevc
lA ao many inducements to accept Mr Stewart^s
to ac eo m p a ny me to Langkat river ; and I
t^ gave directions foir preparing the ves*
acL The repairing of the accommodation boat
sriD refuiie some time ; and the Jessy being fitted
ant in hasten requires to be put to rights, her rig-
set up, &c All these necessary operations

13 £NTER THE BULU CHINA RIVER.

occupy all <m board ivfaik I am employed ool*
lecting information at Ddfi, and vititing the 8al<*
tan up the country. Havnig detennmed^ ihere^
fiire^ to wait here tome time, we weigfied at two
p. M. and stood into the Bulu China river, Mt
Stewart acting as pilot, and a fine biee« ikvouriiy
us. The following are my obsenrations in stand-
ing into the rivor. Lying at andior oppoate
Bulu China river, in 4 fitthoms, distance off shore
about five miles, the westerly pomt or Tanjbi^
Passir Putik bearing 8. W. J W. Pulo Bert^
ing-tinghi scarcely visible, like three small sped»
or rocks bearing N.W.iW. Steering W. N. W.
in a channel S4, S, 2, and 2f fathoms. When op-
posite the outermost stake or beacon, altered course
to W. and by N. in S &thoms ; and whep abreast
of the second stake, in 2 &thoms, steered S. W.
and by W. Pulo Berting-tinghi more vimble^ bear-
ing W. N. W. i W. Opposite the second trian-
gular stake 2i &thoms, and close to a fish-
ing stake to the ri^t, on going in, $i firthoms.
Between this and a triangular stake, mid diannd
ef and S fathoms. Tanjong Passir Putik bearing
W. S. W., the channel deepening to 4i and 4i fii-
thorns. There is a small dioal extending off Tan-
jong Passir Putik, dose to the edge of whidi is 44
fathoms water. Tins large river is called Kwidah
Belawan or Lawan, up to where it branches off to
the right, when the main branch is called the Bnla

MALAYAN BlDKStBlUTt. 18

GliiM» and tlie dumnd whidi kads into the Bdli
tifor !• edled Sungd Kapak Aojing. Here wt
mUband in 5 fiifthoin^ doee to the mouth of ano»
tfaor man mo; wbidi tarns off to the right, call*
ed Sungdi FlinteL Shortly after anchoring, I
pioeeeded np in the j<^7 hoat ; but the freshes in
tibe small stream which leads to Delli wore ao
stm^, that, after making several ineffectoal at*
tempts to get the boat to Ejonpoi^ Ilir, we woe
cUiged to retuni. I met the sultan's brother,
Tnaako Wai^ka, bringing me presents of fruity
Ae ; and he aeoompanied me on board, to obtain
ssme medicine lor his son. This poc^ man dis*
played an intensity of feeling in speaking of his fii-
ttuly, and particalaily of his favourite wife^ whom
lie had htdy lost, whieh is not usual amongst the
JMkhyi^ who generally bear their misfortunes with
a p p are nt apatiiy and indifference. Pointing to his
ddest son, an interesting lad about ten years of
age^ he said, ^ this, and four other helpless chil*
^ dren, have been left to my care, and I know not
''iMiwiopraridefcH* them." Here he burst into
tears. ^ Were it not for these," he said, ^Ishould
* go OB a pilgrimage to Mecca."

l&k JiifMaf^.— Having made preparations for
an cunrmn into the country, I left the hng at
ci|^ ifdoA tills morning, with a small party, and
procee ded np to the entnmce of the fresh water
ilPSi^ wiien we were detained for twelve bom%

14 EXCUESION. BAD ROAI>S.

Waiting for the flood tidc^ there bdng a bar at tii«
mouth quite dry at low water> and n^uirmg an
hour's flood to get the smallest canoes m« The
channel here is very intricatef and my fecfp\%
jumped into the water and dragged the boat aeross
the bar^ the Sepoys cheerfully taking a share in
this laborious duty. Oars are of no use in this
small stream, the natives using Umg pdes called
gala, in the management of which they are very
expert in pushing the boats up against the rapid
ourrent, which runs here with a most alarming ve*
lodty, particularly after the heavy rains* At the
entrance oi the river, we met Tuan Haji Kalif and
Noqueda Usool, the two chief people in absence of
the sultan, bringing me presenU of fruit, &c I
learnt from them that the snltan was stiU xsp the
country, and could not come down, even for a diort
time, in consequence of the disturbed state of the
place. Anxious to have an interview with the sol*
tan, I left Kampong Ilir at noon, and with a Caffiee
guide, one of the sultan's confidential attendants^
and my small party, proceeded across the jun^^
along the banks of the river, intending to go as far
as the Kubu, or encampment of the sultan at Kota
Jawa; but the road was rendered almost impas-
sable by the quantities of rain whidi had fidlen;
and after wading several hours up to my knees in
mud and water, and night conung on, I determin-
ed , upon r^tumipg, and .choosing more fiivousaUe

OBJECTS OF CURIOSITY. BKIDGES. 16

mesLihex fear my excursion. ; I toavelled about teto
milesi passing through several villages, called Kaiil«>
jmig Aled, Kampong Taogah^ and reaehed Kam-
pong Besar at half-past three o'clock. Here there
19 a large misgid or church, situated on the point
where the river separates into two brandbe& I
purchased here a complete model of a prow, called
4 penjajap, and the snout or saw of that large spe*
cies of shark called theJupam/Tig or saw-fish, which
is a very considerable article of trade fnr the China
market, being used as medicine ; but the natives
in this quarter do not seem to have any notion of
their value. The one I purchased for half a dolhur
is the largest I have ever seen, being 5 feet 5 inches
in length, and armed on each side with teeth of aa
inunense size, some two inches in length, and 56
in number. The sea and rivers in this quarter are
fuU of these large sharks, which immediately attack
any person falling into the water. During our
journey to-day, we had to oross the river (which vroa
much swollen, and very rapid), in several places^
upon bridges rudely constructed of the betel-nut
and nebong^tree^ thrown across, and lashed in a
very careless and insecure manner. The least slip
wpuld have been fatal, as, had we &llen into the
water, we must inevitably have been swept away
by the rapidity of the current
In all the villages through which we passed^ the
<tf almost all the males, and the superabmi-

'•^'v^:^'t.

16 BWKLLnfOS.

dtiiMefwtaieiitgav^lmttoo plain indfettknii of
ike war that was mgmg in the tmattj; and wt
saw a poor tviefeeh who had heen woondedt htooght
into hiafionilyfroin the field of hattle. Semalof
theae mifoftoiiaie petaana had leemred diogeroui
l^oiMliot woondai The balla whidi thejr nae iftfiiet
a liieat ae^^cre woimdy heiii^ made of tin^ with pieeea
of faroken ]^te inside^ the ahafp pointa of whidi
generally prqjeett ao that it ia cMretnely dlflEleolt to
eatnict theni< Xhe moat eommon woondai howerery
We r e fr om the raojan, ahaip pointed apBntera of bam*
booa, whidi were atndc in all the pathwijv around
tfie enemy'a fertifieationa. The inhaUtanta, wheie^
ever I pmed» were hoq[atabl^ and expreaaed their
Mief that my anriral would tend to reetore peaee
and tranqnilHty to the eountry. Am I paaaed their
beuaea, they preaented me with eocoa-nuta, called
liere kahmber. Eaeh hooae haa ita eocoa-nnt
pfamtation, whidi ia a prindpal artide of anbdat*
onee in thia quarter, aa in meat Makyan dountrieaL
The houaea ate pleaaantly aituated on the baaka of
the river genemlly ; thanr badiii^^houaaa are built
wver dbe atream» and tiiey have a piotoreaque and
pfaaaing elbct The houaea are laige^ commodiDUi^
and aabatantiatty built, with large a^mre poali^
taiaedfifmn the ground aboirt 6 or 7 feet; theae
poata aupported upon large afuaie atonea or blooka
of wood. Tht aidea are generally plank, and the
faa(b eovfvad with the leaf dT the nipdi ar airiangir

JOUEVSY INLAND OF DFXLL 17

Thijr hme aU windows in die loo^ whidi render
thm estnmAy eool and comfinrtable ; and fixmi
these the women, who aie naturally timid there^
kek at the stnuigen paving. Under eadi hoote
twie hufge loond baskets^ nukle of qplit
the bark of large trees^ in which the
paddjr and pqiper are deposited. These villages
weae wdl provided with poultry, goats, &c. and
everywhere csdiibited the j^eanng appesranees of
eomfbrt and abnndanoe. The water is carried
fioBS the liver by the women in loi^ bamboos^
wfcish aie hnge^ and of which there is a great va-
riety* each house having a dump ca two in the
KuDponf^ whidi gives them a very picturesque
and rand aspect All the villages through whidi
we passed waintainfd nightly patrdes or watches;
the poor people benig liable to midnight attadcs,
and to be phmdcred by the enemy. There seemed
to be an entire stagnation of trade: indeed, I may
say^ I did nst see a single artide ftr sale.

We passed tlmmgh several small patches of
paddy, gioning most luxuriantly. I never saw
any paddy eq^ to it, the stalks being 6 and 8
6et in Isngth, and the ears richly stored. Wetra*
veled thnagh estcnsive groves of fruit trees, via.
es e a n ^mt, betdkiut, dorisn, champada, mangoea*
Janrim, lanseh, runp^ madan^ goava, plan*-
and vnripus other descriptions, intenpetsed in
plaeei with the jungle. In travelling tliKaigh

18 L££CHE& SUPERSTITIOUS CEREMONIES.

the wood% we czperienood gteat inooDTenienoe from
the immense number of small Icedies or pachat
which fiUl from the boughs of trees. They pene*
trate through the clothes imperoeptihly ; and our
legs were absolutely covered with gaie» from the
bites of these little creatures. The woods were
full also of a shrub called the jeUatang, whidi
grows abundantly al<mg the pathways, and requires
the greatest caution to avoid touching it The
leaf somewhat resembles the tobacco leaf; and if it
touches the skin, produces a most painful itchy
sensation, followed by an eruption, which continues
upwards of a month, causing the greatest uneasi*
Htm and pain. I saw also great quantities of aiuK
ther plant, called daun bua bua, with a lai^ soft
hai, which shoots out from the ground, on which the
natives sleep when they are attacked with fever»
and which has a cooling eflRsct There was also an
almndaaee of the bua palas, the leaves of whidi
are used for pdfishing ereesesL The fruit is a small
ydknrbcffy.

The natives here appear to be extremely super*
stitions. Near Kampong Tangah, in pasaing
tfaroi^ the woodsy my attention was drawn to a
large piece of plantain leaf laid on a Hat basket
eoftred widi tiie following curious assortment of
artidesb vis. a sasall quantity of $trr^ tobacoo^ a
variety of llowett, principally the bunga malore^
aone pieces of doth, the legSi bead, and heart of a

TOMB OF TH£ QUEEN. 19

tmU nccp ginger, betd-nut, oiU and two bamboos,
vith toddy, &c* These were meant as an ofl^ng
to the evil s^t, on account of a poor man who
had leoeiTed a gon-shot wound in the bad^ in the
kte engagement at Pub Barian. I proceeded to
his hoose dose at hand; but although he was suf*
fiering the most eicniciating torture, and anuNiifi*
cation was evidently commendng, his friends would
not permit my native doctor, who had accompanied
me with a case of surgical instruments, to attempt
ito extnietion« I saw many other miserable objects^
to whom I administered medidne. On our return^
the women and diildren were less alarmed, and as*
Sfmhled at the doors in vast numbers, to see Euro*
pcaou for the first time. The women are of Batta
extmetion, and disfigure themsdves by making
laige hoki in their ears, into which the richer
dasses introdnoe rings of gold, but the poorer onea
an content to wear a piece of wood, or even plan-
tain leaf loUed up, and copper rings. The old
women lay aside these ornaments when thdr ears
loaa their clastidtys and hang down nearly to their

Oka aqr way back to Kampong Ilir, I went to
euaaine tibe tomb of the sultan's favourite wife, wli9
had died a fim months before (and whom the suk
tan had been i^eased in his conespondenoe to style
my sister), in the construction of which monument
nailiealar natna had been takcuj haviiw sent fiar

90 FISHING BOATS. MUSQUITOES.

brielu and tiles from Pinang. This was the aoiy
piece of masonry I saw in the place. Near thia
monimient is the half of an old 12-pounder iran
gun, which is held sacred by the natives. I was
about to put my hand upon it, but ¥ras checked by
my guides, who proceeded to give me the history
of this wonderful piece of ordnance.

On retumingt we fell in with some fiiriiing boatSr
from one of which I obtained for a dollar an abun*
dant supply of fish for all on board. The best
of these were the korau and selangin, the f<Nrmer
resembling a salmon in shape, and the latter •
sea-trout in size. My people also procured an
jabundant supply of vegetables. We returned ta
the vessel late in the evening; the sides of the
river towards the sea swarming with monkeys of •
great variety of species, feeding upon the fruit of
the niri bunga and niri batu trees, growing
dose to the river's edge, the planks of which are
used principally in the construction of prows and
small boats at DcUL

l6Ui January. — During the night the musqui*
toes prevented any attempts at sound repose^ the cur«
tains affording but little protection against these
roost tormenting insects, which aie particularly
large and troublesome ; and from sun-set till smi«
rise they ceased not to plague us with their hum-
ming. Long ere die day had dawned, we weie
aroused from our slumbers by the soft warblings of

I^PAETUKE ON A JOURNEY. 21

mjfriadiof die faithered tribe, and tbe chattering of
luidreds of iiKmkejrs, scrambling firam tree to tree cm
cidier aide of the small river where the Ycssd lay at
aadiQr. The son rose with andouded splendomr,
idiile the dear atmosphere and serene bine sky,
indieated a fiur day. Exhausted as I was by the
joomey of yesterday, the temptation of sudh &-
imrable weather was too great an inducement to
he resisted^ to renew my excursion ; and I accord-
ingly made prefMurations for a two days journey.
My party consisted on this occasion of IS soldiers.
If lasfsrs to carry provisions, Mr Brown, the
native doctor and draughtsman, and my Malay
writer. We started at seven o*dock in the large
boat, but after pulling for half an hour without
mddng any pr og ress against the tide, we were
tateed to letum, and embark the people in two
small joUy-boats and a canoe. We had the same
dUBcokiea as befiwe in dra^ng the boats over the
sand-banks at the mouth of tiie fresh water stream.
Every one^ exeqpt myself jumped into the water,
and eadi vied with the other in his exertions,
dMN^ this Vfas attended with aome risk, the ali-
gaten beii^ numenms and bold in the river. The
mnber of peo^e, however, and the noise, no doubt
prevented their approach. After remaining hdf
■I hour to breakfittt at Kampong Ilir, we set out,
in eompany with Tuanko Wangka, the king's
brelher, T^um Haji Kali, and about 90 of their

89 APF11EHEN8ION8 OF TH£ £NKMY.

who ezpfesnd b dMie to oooompray
OS to tiie mihaii*! encampment. Our road lay
along the banks of the river, till we readied Kam<t
pong Besar, when we croaaed the smaller stream
inboata^ Heie mnltitodea of women and diildren
had assembled on the banks of the river, around
the church, and there appeared to be • large pqiu^
lation. At this place a new diannel was cut ftp
the river about 50 years ago ; and the old bed of
tibe river is nearly dry, except during the rainy
aeason. After crossing the fisrry, we came upon a
fine open dear country, the large trees only left,
having the qipearance of a park in England,
We passed through immense trades of paddy,
growing most luxuriantly. The extraordinary
height of the paddy rendered it extremdy dia-
agreeable travelling along the narrow pathways,
the grain overtopping our heads two and three
leet Large parties of Malays were clearing away
the jungle^ aa we passed, for the purpose of
planting tobacco^ of whidi we obaerved several
small plantations in a thriving state. After
travdling about acven milea through the paddy
fidds, and extensive plantations of sugar-cane, wo
came to an almost impenetrable thidcet, with a
amall pathway, which would not admit of two
walking abreast Here our guides were rather
alarmed, and begged I would desire the Sepoys to
load their iniMlrcti, appidicnding an attack fton

E£C£PTION BY TH£ SULTAN. 33

tfae eiiemy« who lie in wait in the thick piirtB of
the fiv6it% and pick ijff stragglers with their
matrhloeksb or perch themselves upon hranchei of
tioesb and shoot poisoned arrows with the smnpitt
sr long hoQow tube; and which latter the natiyes
diMd much more than a musket ball The for*
nidaUe if»pearance of our partyt however, prevent*
ed an attack, nor did we observe any traces of the
enemy. We halted several times, to give time to
the stnggjUrs to come up, and to keep our party
tsgether. The road was almost impassable in
some plaees^ particularly in the paddy fields, where
we walked in mud and water nearly up to our
nddle. Our legs and bodies were covered with
Uie small leedies; and on coming within half a
mile of the saltan's encampment, a messenger was
dispatched in advance to announce our approach,
lAile we proeeeded down to the river side to wash
the Uood off our 1^^ and prepare ourselves &r
waiting vpon the sultan. I dressed in a patch of
long lallang grass. On coming within £00 yards
of the sultan's fort, I halted and saluted him with
a diaehaige of five rounds of musketry firom the
whole party of soldiers, which was returned with
swivds and hhmderbusses, about treble the num<»
ber. The sultan was ready to receive us, nr«
Banded by all his chieft and warriors, in a small
Imt, stodcaded all round with trunks of trees fixed
the ground, of which there was a treble low.

34 C01IF£R£NC£.

His eBcampment oonnsted of e^t kubas or fiarti»
at the dittenee of 60 and 100 yards all roundt
doae to the banks of the river on eaeh side. A
temporary bridge was thrown across the stream
(whidi is about 50 yards wide, and the banks of
which are abont 15 fiset in he%ht), esKtreoidy rapid
and deep in some plaee% and the water as dear as
crystaL The sultan, a leqpectable looking old
man, had made all the preparations he coold in
this wretched place for our reception, and met me
at the entrance of his fort, conducting me into his
place of audience, a miserable hovd, when the
letter was received with due honour. The sultan
evinced considerable anxiety on opening the letter ;
but when the contents were explained to him^ a
ray of joy illumined his countenance, and he eau
pressed his anxiety to encourage, by every means
in his power, the resort of traders to his country*
He proceeded to give me a detail of the causes of
the present disturbances in the country; and I pro-
posed communicating witli the enemy, who was
encamped in five small forts within mudcet diot, on
the opposite side of the river. After a conforence
with the sultan, whidi hmted about an hour, I ro>
tired to a kubu which had been pnpared for my
aoeommodation, much fotigued aftsr my journey;
This hut was about SO feet long^ bytOwMk tad
only 74 in height; and hen my whde party took
up their quartern for the night I had not been

HOSTIUE FOBCX. 3S

Aen Buuqr imimtes before • laige ptrty of the
fimcip e l ehiefr ctme in, and kept me in con*
fenatkm tifl kte in the ev^ung. They wete
at lblIowa>— Toanko Wan Knmhang, the aoltan'a
jfwniger faiodwr; TnankoButa ofSiadc, aadhia
tfnee atna, interetting looking young men, named
I^Mnko Koidt Daud, and Anam ; also their three
ewiini, Tnanko Mahomet, Jena, and Semaii ; to
aft of nhom k waa necessary to give small presents.
From these dueA I reodved a full account of
tiior kte eng^fements, and of the principal causes
of the present hoatilitaes. A chief, named Tuanko
Fdo Baiian, had established himself several years
ago^ np the Ddli liver, residing at a place called
Maidan ; but gaimng a little influence, and collect*
ing • ftw desp erate adventurers, he proceeded to
SKaet a dutf iqwrn the pepper passing down the
rivar, to which he had no right, and which was
fixeiUy opposed by the sultan. The sultan seized
a boat leaded with pepper, bebnging to the Rajah
Fkdo Baiian, which was sold to satisfy his nurae-
•Boa cveditosa, whom he refused to pay till compel-
led by the sultan. He vowed revenge ; and imme-
diatdy eoUeeting all his followers, he felled a num.
ber of laige trees along the banks of the river, whidi
aewpletfly blocked up the passage, and seiaed and
ffamdcRd any boata attempting to come down to
tcade at DellL The sultan was therefore compel-
led to take the field. Another source of dispute

S6 CUBI0U8 ACCIDENT.

(md whidi made the fultan very invetarate) was
the aeiaure o{ a huflGdoe, whidi the roltan was
about to make a sacrifice oC after the kte epidemic
which had committed such layages in the country.
The buffidoe strayed during the night prior to the
intended consecniti<Mi9 was seind and lulled by the
Sigab Pub Barian, in spite of the sultan's remon-
atranoesp and a fiill knowledge of the hdy purpose
finr whidi it was designed. In felling <me of the
large trees into the river, the Rajah Pulo Barian,
who took an active part himself slipped, and broke
his thigh, which was considered a just retribution
fiir his sacrilegious conduct The Kigah Pub Barian
came originally firom a place called Danai, a littb
way dovm the coast His proper name is Bjidin
Inn. He has three brothers, die eldest of whom,
Mai^a Kaya, is now called Rigah Graba, or the
head warriin*. Wan Achan, another, was married
at Queda about a year ago, and is, I believe, a
piratical adventurer ; and the other brother. Wan
Bagus, resides at DanaL

Bqah Graha is the leading man in this business,
nd has about 100 adherents, principally Battas.
He gives 16 dollars finr each kubu or fort for eight
days^ and one pice weight of opium, with a dmpah
of rice daily, to each fighting man, and a reward finr
every head of an enemy. There was an incessant
firing all night, dose to our little hut which was,
however, impenetraUe fan musket balls; but the

iNSPi^CTiON OF TH£ FORTS. 37

sultan recommended me to permit some of my at-
tendants to go outside. My bed was an old mat
laid upon a hard flooring of split bamboos on the
ground, which was not particularly well adapted £or
enjojring sound repose upon^ The musquitoesi
however, were not quite so troublesome as we had
found them further down* The cold during the
night was excessive, and a very heavy dew fell
Large parties of the sultan's tro<^ patrolled during
the night ; and here and there we observed groupes
collected round large fires^ which had a picturesque,
effect, ynder the lofty trees which had been left
Mutouched, on which the Uazing fires reflected.

nth January. — The fog this morning was very
dense, and the coolness of the air extremely invigo^
rating. After refreshing myself with a plunge in
the clear stream, I sallied forth to inspect the eui^
campio&it, and visited all the forts on both sides
of the river. As the sun iy)se, the fog disappeared ;
and the rushing of the stream ov^ the rocks and
large trees which here and there interrupted its
murse, united to the melodious warblings of the
birds, contributed to enliven the scene before n:^

Each of the sultan's kubus was unde^ a pungulu
and several panglimas, and contained from 30 to
40 men. They were well provided with arms^
chiefly iron and brass swivels, blunderbuitees, match-
locks made at Meuangkabau, spears, and a variety
fif liwords, witrh kris innumerable. The walls weifg

S8 AifClEHIT JAVANESE FORTIFICATION.

covered with AieUs, called gantar and priri; and
eadi 6rt was jfforided with hatge quantities of the
taqan, w smaU pointed slips of bamhoo, the tops of
whidi were well hardened in the ftre, placed in long
cases made of jdnts of bamboos, containing abont
too OT SOO ranjans eadi. Without them thej
never go to fight; and they plant them in the path-
ways as they retrest fiom the enemy*

At this ^ace are the remains of a large em-
bankment or fortification, which was oceujned by
a colony of Javanese many centuries ago; and
hence it retains the name of Kota Jawm to this
day. It seemed to have been sorroonded by
a wide ditdi; and the whole bore the afqpear-
ance of a regular fortification. Around grew a
great variety of venerable loddng M trees, par-
tknlariy of the red wood or rangas. The anau
tree^ from whidi the Uack rope is obtained, grows
in abundance in the woods. The Battas extract
toddy fifom it, of which they seemed to make a li-
beral use, to strengthen their eoun^. The sultan
was up at an early hour, and ready to converse with
me. He seemed exceedingly anxioiis that hostili-
ties should cease, but said he felt no confidence
while Ri^ Graha remained in the country, whom
he represented as a most desperate duuracter ; and
wlMH'he hid no doubt, would instigate some of his
people to assasrinate him, if he consented to a re-
conciliation, and to his again residing at Kanpong

001lFfiE£KC£ WITH THE SNEHY. 99

IHf^ where he umiUy staid prior to this rapture*
He Mithoriied me, however, to tell hinst that he
diould be dear of all debts due to the sultan, pro«
vided he would quit the country quietly. Anxious
to ha?e an interview with the opposite party, I pnK
eeeded to the fiirt at the extremity of the sultan's
encampment, which was the strongest q{ the wholes
and contained about 80 fighting men. This was
exactly opposite two oi the enemy's kubus on the
other nde of the river, within a st<me's throw, and
where several men had been picked off by musketry
a few days beibre. My entrance into the kubu
was amiooneed by a loud shout, whidi drew some
of the enemy to the embrasures of their forts, and
a parley todk ]^ace. I observedi* however, six or
seven mnskets and blunderbusses pointed towards
the place where I was standing ; and the people
around me cautioned me against putting my head
ever the palisades. Upon being hailed and inform.
ed that I was dedrous of meeting the chiefis, they
pot their arms down, calling out at the same time
to the sultan's party not to fire. A stout, athleti<^
dashing loddng man, dressed in a scarlet doth
jadLet, whom I afterwards understood to be the
panglima^ or commander X the prindpal finrt, then
stqpped forward and told me, that Rajah Ghraha
was ready to recdve me, but that I must bring
only half a dooen followers. He promised also that
Intilities should be suspended on his side while I

aO DEATH OF A BRAVfi PANGLtMA.

lemttned^ and b^ged me to obtain a similar pledge
from the sultan, which I did. The crowd of war-
riors drawn up on the opposite shores of the
river, foimed an interesting spectacle. I aoocnd-*
ingly, with my writer, Mr Rrown, and four Sepoys^
crossed over die bridge^ and passed throuj^ an in-
tricate pathway about half a mile^ to the place ap-
pointed for the interview^ which was a small open
space oi rising ground* where Riyah Graha was
seated on mats spread on the ground, surrounded
by about 50 wretched looking moi, armed with
spears, muskets, and creeses. His best men were
dl in the kubus. We were conducted by the
panglima before mentioned, dressed in scarlet He
had distinguished himsdf in an engagement a few
days before, dose to the spot where we sUnnL
Both parties had shown more than usual courage
on this occasion, fior they engaged sword in hand.

Panglima Prang, a fine young man from 8ir««
dang, who led on the party of 100 men, rushed
fiotemost into the battle ; and I was infimned that
the personal enoounter between him and this dar-
ing kxdung fellow who escorted me, excited the
deepest interest He was at last victorious^ and
with one blow severed tile Panglima Pkang^s head
from hb body.

Rajah Giaha is a stout, dark, little man, with
mastachios, windi added to the natural fierceness
drUslooL He surveyed me with a jcakms eye ai

EXPLANATION WITik RAJAH 6RAHA. 31

first, but I soon established a good imderstandnig
with him, and we had an unreserved communica-
tion. He complained much of the sultan's treat-
ment, and insisted that he had taken up arms in
selMefencc j and that though he had a fiunily to
support, the sultan would not permit him to trade
in the country. I pointed out to him the neces*
sity and advantage of concession, impressing upon
him, that if he returned quietly to his former place
of abode, Danei, and cultivated pepper and paddy,
he would find many ready to assist him, and would
reap more advantage from the quiet pursuits of
commerce, than from opposition to the sultan of
Delli, and from disturbing the peace of the coun*
try. He seemed impressed with the propriety of
my suggestions, and gave me authority to make
certain proposals to the sultan of DeUi, of which
an accommodation has since, I believe^ been the
result. I made Rajah Graha a small present of
Europe chintz, which he returned by some fruits ;
and we parted in the most friendly manner. As
we passed one of the sultan's largest kubos, on the
opposite side, close to the enemy's entrenchments^
we observed great preparations making for mount*
ing a 1 8 pounder gun, which had been brought up
with great labour by the sultan's party. Undav
standing that this gun belonged to the small
schooner lying in the river, I pointed out to the
sultan the extreme impropriety of his using it, and

33 DI8FATCH A PARTY TO THE BRIO.

exacted a aolemn promise that it thould be return-
ed forthwith. As I leamt ako that Rajah Gndia
entertained a notimi that the saltan had reodved
amstance ftom me in arms and men, I dispatdied
my writer to assure him that sndi was not tiie
case, and to communicate the promise which I had
received fifom the saltan respecting the gnn.

ISth January.— Oxtt stock of provinons being
nearly expended, I dispatched a small party eariy
this momingto the brig,fora fireshsupply. I was
employed the greater part of the day conversing
widi the saltan on the objects of the mission, and
obtaining from him a variety of information rda-
tive to the commerce and revenues, the history
and agriculture of the country. He was always
ready for an interview, and manifested the most
anxious disposition to conciliate and show me the
greatest attention. Here I found a rich fidd for
enquiry, and was reluctant to quite the place, until
I had satisfied myself fully upon all points. Many
€i the chiefo of DdH had not ascended so for aa
where I now was ; and every thing here was as new
to those who accompanied me, as to myselfl The
soil here is a rich dark mould, and must be of al«
luvial formation, as at Ujong GoraK Rot for from
Kota Jawa, there is a cable in the ground, describ-
ed to be as large as a lantern which I had with me,
and confirms the tradition that this part of the
country has beeu recovered from the sea only a fow

¥ISIT TO THE SICK. 33

centuries ago. The rope is of the iju or gonmty,
and is in a wonderful state of preservation.

A little way down the river, there is a place call-
ed Kota Bangun, opposite to which is a fine plani
tation of cocoa-nut trees ; and in the middle of th^
river a small island called Fulo Gk>rab, from the
drcumstance of a vessel being wrecked there many
centuries ago. This place, which is not now inha-
bited, is known by two remarkably lai^e trees of
the katapang and benuang species* Near it, and
akmg the banks of the river, are a great many of
the selas^selas tree^ the &vourite resort of the bees
which produce the fine wax of the country. These
trees may be observed at a distance, towering above
all the others of the forest

Accompanied by the native doctor, I went out
in the course of the day to visit the sick in the seve-
ral forts, and administered medicine to many poor
wretches who had received severe wounds, and were
otherwise sick. The doctor probed the wounds of
several ; but we could not prevail on any of them
to submit to the necessary operation of extracting
the ball. I saw many remarkable instances of the
superstition of the natives*

Great numbers of die B^ttas who were employ-
ed by the sultan as soldiers, came to visit me to-day ;
amongst the rest, one of a particularly ferocious and
determined appearance, distinguished amongst Us

34 BATTA SOLDIE&S. CANNIBALS.

companions for his extraordinary oooragef and also
as an expert marksman with the matdilock. He
was a natire of Seantar in the interior, and he told
me he had partaken of human flesh seven times.
He mentioned this in the course of oonversatioii,aiid
of his own accord. He even specified the partial-
lar parts of the body which were esteemed the most
delicate. With the sword which he held in his hand,
he said he had dispatched four men, of whom he had
eaten. He was completdy equipped for battle, hav*
ing upon his person a priming horn, cartouch bos,
cartridges, a matchlock of Menangkabau manniacv
ture, a shield, and a spear, besides a case of raojaaa
or sharp slips of bamboos slung over his shoulder.
He was dressed in a bajoo of blue doth, Achenese
serwal or trowsers, a tangulu kapala, or handker-
chief for the head, and a small mat-bag slung across
the other shoulder, containing his flint, steel, series
betel-nut, and tobacco.

One or two Battas who came from a place call-
ed Tongking, also mentioned their having parta-
ken of human flesh repeatedly, and expressed thenr
anxiety to enjoy a similar feast upon some of the
enemy, pointing to the other side of the river.
This they said was their principal inducement for
engaging in the service of the sultan. Another
displayed, with signs of particular pride and satis-
fiulion, a kris, with which he said he had killed the
seducer of his wife, and whose head he had severed

t^OfiCE Ot THE SULTAN OF DELLL 35

fiotti his bodyf holding it by the hair, and drinking
the blood as it yet ran warm firom the vmoL He
pointed to a spot of blood on the kris, whidi he re^
qitested me to remark, which he said was the blood
of his victim^ and which he put to his nos^ smel-
ling it with a j^est difficult to describe^ and hid
fisatures assuming at the same time a fsrodty of
expressioti which would not have been very agree'
able, had not my safety been guaranteed by my
Watchful sepoy guard4

The sultan's force consisted of about 400 ineit^
Me-thiid of them at least sudi savages as I have
been describing. Their food consisted of the &sh
of tigers, elephants, h(^, snakes, dogs, rats, or
whatever o£Pal they could lay their hands upon^
Having no religion, they ieAt neither God nor man^
They believe that when they die, they shall become
wind« Many of them, however, are converted to
Islamism ; but the olda: people, who have been ac*
customed to feast upon human flesh, and other de^
licacies of that sort, have an aversion to the Maho^
metan faith, as they cannot afterwards enjoy them-
sdves, which is their principal consideraticm^

The pepper plantations a little way above Kota
Jawa, are kept beautifully cle»n, and ekar £rom
grass. They plant paddy, onions, sweet potatoes,
plantains, and cotton, amongst the pepper vines^
Dry poles are used as supporters. These poles
require to be frequently replaced ; aad their removal^

%. .

30 TREES AND VEGETABLE PRODUCTIOKS.

no dottbt» causes considerable injury to the viaea^
Tlie plantations were full of large red fruit called
the padindang, which is of a very beautiful i^
pearance, but is, I believe^ of a poisonous qualify.
The jahar tree is one of the handsomest of the
forest The branches are large and spreading
leaves small, and the wood hard, and of a ooarae
black grain. The binjai asam is a large and oma^
mental tree^ bearing a bitter fruit, pleasant to the
taste. The mentubong is another fine branchy tree,
but the wood is soft.

There is a place near Pulo Barian, called Tan^
jong Kallumpang, from a lai^ tree of the name^ of
which the timber is most commonly used for making
coflKns. The wood is of a reddish colour and ooarae
grain. At this place the sultan first encamped on
his march up the country, and had only moved to
the place where I found him, about ten days
before. The finest and most ornamented tree
which I saw in the woods, was the bunga dedqi,
a tree producing a very handsome rich crimson
flower. The bunga sennia bunglei, also was in
abundance. This tree produces a long bean, two
feet in length, with small seeds and light partides
like flowers of thistles. The stem of this tree is
used for making charcoal for gunpowdar. It growa
to the height of about 80 feet

As the evening approached, I went out with my
fowling-piece, and had good sport. I shot a men*

SPORTING. BIRDS. 37

key of a particularly lai^ size, called lotong, with
long black hair and tail. I almost r^etted my
success, as the sight I witnessed was most distress-
ing, the animal being only wounded ; and a young
one, which could not be separated from it, clasped
it in its arms, uttering the most piercing shrieks.
I also shot a kubong, or flying squirrel. Of the
feathered' tribe, there was an infinite variety. The
tukang is the largest and handsomest bird I
saw. It makes a loud croaking noise in passing
from one tree to another. There is a small black
bird of exceedingly delicate plumage, with two
long feathers in its tail, called the amba gra, or
monkey's debtor. The ampork is a bird with red
]dumage, and has sweet notes.

The party whom I had sent for provisions yes-
terday, arrived about noon, much to the satis&ction
of all ; f(»r we had nothing left, and there was no
possibility of procuring any thing except a little
rice at this place. Hearing that the Rajah Sebaya
linga was at his pepper plantations, about a day's
journey from Kota Jawa, and being anxious to
meet him, to endeavour to introduce the currency
into the country, the sultan dispatched three of
liis people to invite him to come over and meet me
•after my return from Bulu China, whither I was
proceeding. I proposed writing a letter in Malays,
but the sultan inform^ me that would be of no
use, as he did not understand letters ; and to oon?

S8 RETURN FROM KOTA JAWA.

vinoe the Rajah Sebaya that a Europeaii was ae»
tually there, and to prevent dehiy» he reoommend*
ed me to send aome article of my dre«. I aeeordr
ingly sent him a doth jacket to look at, and the
impression of one of my seals (a dog, to which the
Battas are very partial), upon a small piece of white
wax. Having now arranged every thing with the
sultan relative to my mission, and promised to re-
turn again to Delli after visiting Langkat, I pre-
pared for our departure the following day. The
sultan was loath to part with us, and b^ged me to
remain a few days longer.

19^ January. — ^The sultan having prepared
two canoes for our conveyance down the river, with
two expert men in each at the bow and stem, to
manage the galas, it became necessary not to pro-
tract our departure, but to set off in time^ in order
that we might reach Kampong Ilir before dark, the
river being full of those formidable animals, the
elephant and rhinoceros, which come down in im»
mense herds towards evening, to bathe in the
stream, and frequently attack and destroy boats
coming suddenly upon them. The sultan and aU
the cluefii accompanied me to the river's side (idben
I embarked), which was a particular marii of dia-
tinction; and we exchanged salutes in stepping into
the boat We acooidingly embarked the whole
party, twenty-nine in number, in two canoes^ wfaieli
were very ridietty and leaky, and in iriuch we

RAPID CURRENT. 39

were in constant apprehension of being upsets the
stream being extremely rapid, and our frail barks
gliding along with a most alarming velocity. The
river too was full of trees, and occasionally rocks,
against which the least touch would have been
&tal; but the Malays handled the poles with
astonishing dexterity; and just as we were in
momentary expectation of being dashed to pieces,
they gave the boats a fair direction with the galas.
The river in some parts was almost impassable, on
account of the large trees ; and we were obliged to
land on the bank, while the boat-people cut away
or lifted the large trunks under which the boat
passed* The velocity of the stream appeared to be
nearly six miles an hour. A very considerable de«
divity was observable. At the place where we
embarked, the banks were about 15 or 16 feet in
height, but they gradually declined till we reached
Kampong Besar, a distance of about S5 miles,
where the banks are nearly level with the water's
edge. The country seems to possess immense adf-
vantages in respect to soil; but the inhabitants
want activity to make the proper use of nature's
prodigal gifts. The river was skirted by an incon^
ceivably rich v^etation ; and the variety of the
trees on its lofty banks, and the splendid profiisicm
of their fdiage, gave to the landscape an aspect at
once pleadng and luxuriant. The whole scen^

40 B£AUTIFUL SCSN£BY.

called to ny veoollectian Milton'8 saUime detorip-
tion of the cveatum:— -

RoMy at in danoe^ tbe stately treat, and tpread
Their brandiet, hong with oopioot fimit, or gemm'd
^ Their Moatoint ; with hi^ woodt the hiOt were crowflTd,
^ ¥nth toftt the Tallejra and eadi loantaia tide,
^ With borders long the rirert: that eardi now
" Seem'd like to hearen, a aeat where Godt mi^ dwell^
** Or wander with delight, and love to haont
" Her tacred thadea."

PABAOiax Lost.

The trees akmg the banks of the river were ao«
tnally covered with mcmkeys, Unck, brown, and
grey. The birds too swarmed upon the branches,
some of exceedingly rich and varied plumage and
melodious notes. We observed numerous tracks
of the elej^hant and rhinoceros on the sides of the
river. The natives do not understand the method
of catching these animals. The sultan begged I
would endeavour to persuade some of the Queda
people who had been accustomed to catch do*
phants» to go over to Dellit where there is no
doubt that an immense quantity of ivory might be
ccdkcted.

The Ddli people are very ddicate in respect to
their women. Am we approadied the bathings
houses on the banks of the river, the man at the
ytem of * the canoe called out with a Stentorian voices

OBJECTS OF NOTICE. 41

^ boah," which was a signal for the females, if
there were any near the river, to move off. The
sugar-cane was growing luxuriantly in many places
we passed, particularly at Mabur Bajuntd, Ho^
queda Squ's residence, about half-way up. This
is a well cultivated spot, covered with large plan^
tations of plantains. Here there is a very remark*
able old tree, like an umbrdla, the top being faro-
ken, and the whole tree decayed except a branch,
which shoots out near the top, and overspreads the
trunk. My draughtsman took a sketch of this
extraordinary old tree. At this place formerly re-
sided Rajah Mabar, one of the sultan's ancestors,
of celebrated memory. There is a remarkable plant,
with a large broad lea^ called sukkat, or salimbar,
which grows on the stem and branches of large trees,
iised for packing tobacco in, to keep it soft and
moist It grows in abundance. Nature indeed
seems bountifully to have supplied this country
with every necessary tree and herb, without the
labour and trouble of cultivation. The bubua, a
tree somewhat resembling the teak, with large
leaves, and prickly stem, is found in plenty, and
used chiefly as posts for the construction of their
iiouses. Of the daun ibas, a leaf resembling the
nipah, the natives make baskets, mats, &c. ; while
several species of rattans are found in plenty, and
furnish them with ropes, &c. for their boats, mats^
baskets, &c.

4a REACH KAMPONO iUR.

Defending the river, we passed numerous small
kampongs, and two small grqa, or chuiches, where
there was a large concourse of children reciting the
konuL Other parties were amusing themselves in
the other houses, some playing upcm the vidin,
others beating the gong and drum, raiging, &&; and
the inhabitants seoned altogether more settled and
oomfortaUe than when I passed a few days ago,
in consequence, no doubt, of the suspension of hoa»
tiltties which took place. In the morning, one of
the Iqng's men was reciting with a loud voice, in
a drde of about 200 people, from a book contain*
ing the history of the exploits of Alexander the
Great, translated from the AraUc, which was in*
tended to impress the sultan's warrim with hermc
notions, and excite their courage and emulation*

In passing the village, some of my people made
several small purchases of cocoa-nuts, plantains, and
sugar-cane ; the prices of which were somewhat less
than at Pinang. Bice, however, was very scarce
and dear ; only four gantons for the dollar. The
imial allowance there is one ganton, or foor dio-
pas^ for a party of 18 men, for each meal, twioe

We readied Kampong Ilir about seven in the
evening ; and being too late to go on board the
brig, we took up our quarters on board the sAooner
Snfblk for the night Numbers of Battas vriio
had taken courage and come down to trade during

aETU&N TO THE BEIG. 43

the suspension of hostilities, came on board the
schootier. My draughtsman took a groupe of
thtfm^ who were dressed entirely in their own ma*
mlfiMturts. I did not obsenre an ardde of Euro*
pMn or odast manu&ctuie upon these men* Many
otbcm ajLso idiom ^I saw were dressed in native
manu&ctures. They came fiom Tinging to the
eastward, a few months before, and had taken up
fhdr residence for a short time at one of the vil-^
lages a little way np the river. They mentioned
that there are 800 people at Tinging, the place
' where they reddey five days journey from Delli,
under the authetity of Fangiilu Bangun. One of
^hem who spoke Malays tolerably well, said he
had eaten human flesh three years ago ; that they
enhf eat their enemies. The other two had never
eaten human flesh. I was detained till a very
late hour conversing with these people, and re^
tired much fatigued to seek a little repose, which
{ had not enjoyed for several nights*

20£4 Jiomtioi^^i— This morning, long ere dawn^
% from short (as usual) and distnrb'd i^tpose I woke,**
^iid roused my slumbering att^dants, whos^ minds
were less anxious than mme^ and whose skins were
better qualified to resist the attacks of the torment-
ing musquitoes, which allowed me but little rest,
We started early fcnr the brig, and were fortunate in
getting an abundant supply offish, of which a single
boat contained no Jess thm 13 diff^^^ent specieSf

44 AN ECCENTHIC CUARACTEU,

We had been absent firmn the vessel five days,
and my friends on board had been collecting curi-
osities during my absence. Mr Camegy shot a
variety of birds, the handsomest of whidi was a
bunmg udang or kingsfisher, with a Im^ red bill,
and Ugfat bine intermixed with scarlet plomage.
The flying liiards (chicha terbang) were also in
plenty on the trees, two of which were secured by
my cleric The bunmg lambu, a large Inrd with
black plumage, which makes a ncnse like a cow,
and the dendang ayer, were frequently seen, bat
wild.

We were accompanied on our return by the fismale
Mata Mata, Che Laut, a most extraordinary and
eccentric old woman, and more like a man in her hft*
bits. She is a most intelligent old creator^ and gave
me a vast deal of interesting infinrmation relative
to the country, and the different places along the
coast, most of which she had visited. She applied
for a Malay Testament (of which I had several for
distribution), which I gave to her, and she express-
ed her intention of studying it. She speaks a
little Chinese, Siamese, Chuliahs, and Bengali^,
and once took a trip to Adieen, purposdy to leam
the language. She is fond of travelling, and has a
great desire to see different countries. She is a
poet and historian ; and as she sat in the boat, com*
posed extcmp<Nre verses with astonishing fluency on
any given subject, as fiMt as I could write tbem

MATA MATA OF BELLI, AN OLD WOMAN. 46

down. She knows the name of every river, and
almort every chief, from Palembang on the east
coast, to Soosoo on the west coast of Sumatra, She
dyes, weaves, and embroiders. Her memory is
astonishingly retentive ; and she answeifs questions
on ahnost any subject with wonderfiil fluency. She
is in £ict a prodigy of leamii^; but she has nO
beauty to boast of, being a prototype of the
hag in Guy Mannering. She is taU and thin,
with long hanging ears, and holect nearly the dr^
cumference of a Spanish dollar. She is usually
dressed in a long scarlet silk bajoo, with a pair of
long trowsers, and a tartan sarong or petticoat over
them reaching to the knee, with a salindang or
scarf of cotton, dyed by herself, a green body with
red ends, which she throws gracefiilly over her
shoulders when Ae goes out She returned home
in the evening.

2\st January. — Noqueda Unguk, the miltan's
prime minister, and the female Mata Mata, who
were ordered by the sultan to escort me to Bulu
China, came on board early in the morning ; and I
again left the brig, with a party of 25 men, in the
accommodation boat, for a five days trip. We en-
tered tile Bulu China river about eight A. M.
Here the river is about 400 yards wide, with a fine
deep channel of 6 and 7 fathoms. On the right
is Sungei Terussan Dulmanack. There is another
channel which communicates with Delli, about

46 MISLED DV GUIDES.

seven miles up the river, to the left. Here is s
small island, called Pulo Gorab, from a tradition of
a grab belong^g to the king of Acheen being
wrecked there many centuries ago. The sand col-
lected round the wreck, and a pretty litUe green
island has sprung up. The sides of the river
abound with niri bnnga and batu, the bungor and
other wood fiw building prows. The boga also^ a
species of palm, like a small cocoa-nut tree, grows
abundantly on the banks, the top of which makes a
good vegetable. It produces a large fruit resem-
bling a pine apple. The nipah or «rtup leaf was
also abundant, and the txees covered with fruit

Our guides were rather ignorant of the naviga-
tion of the river, and the number d channela
puzzled them. We by mistake sailed up a river
to the right, about 150 yards wide at the mouth,
continuing that width for seven or eight miles,
gradually decreasing to 50 yards, with a deep chan-
nel of 7 fathoms in some places. This river ia
called Sungci Belouai. We sailed up its stream
about 12 miles, when seeing no traces of inhabit-
ants, we returned. There is a small green island
iu the centre of the river, called Pulo Barimbang.'
After leaving this river, we took the straight chan-
nel, and after two hours hard pull, readied the en-
trance of the small stream which leads to Bulu
China. We passed a small river called Sungei
Aior, and a channel leading to Delli, which waa

MET BY A CHIEF. 47

cut by the inhabitants a few years ago— a proof of
more than common industry. The Pemagang Haji
met us at the mouth of the small river, having gone
to the brig to wait upon me, and missed us while
we were up the Sunjei Belouai. I gave him a pre-
sent of white European doth, with which he was
much pleased, having never seen any so fine. He
told me that European white cloths were very sale-
able in the country at present.

We entered the village of Bendar Sampei
about seven in the evening. My people were
quite worn out with the fiitigue of pulling firom
eight o'clock in the morning, without intermission,
under a hot vertical sun. We passed a most
beautiful pulei or wax tree of an immense size, two
reaches below the village. The appearance of this
village as we entered it in the dusk of the evening,
was more prepossessing than it proved to be in day
light. A great number of prows were lying in the
river ; and their lights, together with the lamps in
the houses, united to the sound of music in all di-
rections, rendered the scene extremely lively and
pleasing as we glided up the river. We moved
our baggage into the house of a respectable inhabit-
ant, Che Abang, close to Shabundar Sampei*s
house. The latter had gone two days before to
DellL Noqueda Amal was acting during his
absence, but nothing could be done without the
shabundar, who is the prindpal man there. I re-

48 ARRIVAL AT RaMPONG BEKDAR SAMPEI.

paid Che Abaiig's hospitality by a present of chinta^
And haadkerchiefii to himself and his two sons.

98d January. — ^Early this morning I went out
to take a survey of the Kampong Bendar. The
ground is very swampy and muddy, in consequence
ef which, walking was not very easy or agreeable.
Some of the dwellings^ however, have an appear-
ance of comfort The people were busily engaged
in various occupations; some were cutting fire-
wood, others were preparing planks for prows, and
others were pounding paddy, &a The inhabitants
sore respectful and obliging, never addressing me
without the epithet ** Tuan,** or Sir, which is
by no means common in many Malayan coimtricf.
I shot a patatow bird, a beautiful species of wood*
pecker, with dark yellow plumage, and a long bilk
Of shell-fish which had been brought from the sea
shore, there appeared to be a great variety ; via.
cockles of a very lai^ sise, muscles and oysters;
abo a peculiar sort of wilk caUed kalimboy, with a
black shell, and the fish protected with a shell co-
ver, the whok resembling a small Scotch snuff-
mull.

In consequence of the rain, which began to fidl in
torrents at eight o'clock, I was confined the whok
day to the house ; but was busUy employed in the
meantime in collecting information from the na*
tives who Hocked in vast numbers to visit us, and
vied with each other in their attention in bringing

BANDITTI IN TH£ WOODS. 40

me specimens of warlike instruments, flowers, &e.
of which my China-man made sketches. The mata
mata was very active in procuring supplies of fish,
&c A man just arrived from Soonghal informed
me that the Orang Kaya was at Selagan-layan, one
day's journey from Soonghal, where there is a small
village, and an extensive pepper plantation. Sul-
tan Ahmet was at Kullumpang. I was very anxi-
ous to reach Soonghal as soon as possible, both
that I might examine the state of the coun-
try, and also persuade the Orang Kaya to intro-
duce our currency. I was informed, however, that
the woods were infested with a travelling banditti,
known by the name of Gumpangan, or Musu
Bringing, who shoot from behind trees, and plun-
der passengers. The country around Delli is in-
fested with the same banditti. I was in conse-
quence prevented from penetrating fiirther into
the interior ; and the rajah fearing that I should
meet with some accident, declined to give me
guides, as I requested. These people lurking in
the brushwood, are effectually concealed ; and from
this covert they fire their small poisoned arrows,
which gliding through the air without noise, carry
sure death to their unwary victims. I saw several
people who had encountered straggling parties of
these banditti in their journies, and had been
wounded severely by their attacks. The people
around me amused themselves with playing at

^ ATTEMPTED ATTACK.

chesB (chatiur or main giyah), all day. Thia gme
is very common in all the countriea which I virit-
ed ; and some very skilful players are to be met
with.

2^ January. — ^During the night, three men
were observed close under my bed plaoe, attempt-
ing to make a hole in the wall, which was only of
tihin samiers. As soon as they were obaorvedr
they made off with all speed. My sentry kept a
good look out. I was kept awake a great part of
the night by one of my host's sons, who was reci^
ing a poetical tale, to which a large party around
him were listening with delight. His voice was
soft and musical, and the recitation pleasing.

My writer and a messenger who left this place
two days ago for Soonghal, not having returned, I
was forced to >vait for the chief from Kullumpang.
It rained hard during the greatest part of the day.
During a little interval of fine weather, I went to
the adjoining village, Pangalan Bulu, to visit the
Pemagang Haji. The distance is comparatively
short by land, but the road is a mere compound of
mud and water, in which I would have sunk to the
knees. I preferred, therefore, going in a boat,
though it was extremely difficult to make any way
against the strong current in the confined channdi
which was cut a few years ago, and where the wa-
ter runs as if it were a sluice. Rather than make
a pathway of 800 yards, the inhabitants prefer

CAEABILITU8 OF THE COUNTBY. 61

amimg 900 or 400 yardB in the middie of tlie
ttiMDi. We iaw fome little hojs mounted oq
«mO hweett dnhing into the river at fiill gtllop^
md fwimming about. The borseo appealed to be
wM trained to die sport I diot a faeaatifnl blue
ludt with a ydlow beak, called a purling^ whooe
aotet are not unlike the blackbird ; abo several of
the dove qpedea, balum and punei, which are very
numerous, and very ddieate eating. The barow
baiDw, a splendid yellow bird, sings also like a
blaAbird ; and according to the report of the na^
tives, can be taught to speak.

Of domestic animals, the cat seemed the most
plentifuL They are the genuine Malay eats, with
m screw in their tails, large and powerful, and ex*
ceUent ratters. In all the cottages I observed the
fpomen industriously employed, beating paddy,
fluddng cases for rokos, spinning, and dyeing. From
die leaves of the pine-apple, which grows wild in
the woods, in plenty, they make a fine thread,
vriudi is sometimes used as a substitute for silk.
Sieiy article of necessity, and many of luxury, are
to be finrnd in this country, which possesses many
advantages and natural resources, capable of being
improved to a vast degree. The excessive iud<^
of the natives, however, is a bar to all im*
They gain a subsistence with littk
or exertion, and devote the greater part of

BATTA rLANT£&S.

their time to sleep and idlenew, smokii^ madcUt
(opimn), &c Opium gmoking, however, is not so
prevalmt here as at Soong^ial, where almost every
person I saw uses this pernicious drug.

Towards evenings three traders (Battas), who
had just travdled across from the interior of Lang*
kat, with which phu» and Soonghal there is a con*
ttant conmiunicatimi, came in. They were of the
tribe Karau Karau^ and were dressed entirely in
blue doth of coast manufiusture, called murch and
didopan, of which such large quantities are annu-
ally imported by the Chooliahs into Pinang. Al-
most aU the Battas whom I saw here were dressed
in these doths ; and some few had bajoos or jackets
of European chintz or white doth. Nothing but the
want of means prevents them from all wearing Euro-
pean doth, to which they have latdy become very
partial. The pepper plantations are thriving re-
markably wdl in this quarter, and coming into bear-
ingrapidly. Their produce will give these people in-
creased means of purchasing their fiivourite dresses;
and I have no doubt, from what I saw, and the
evident partiality and growing taste for European
chintzes, maddapoUams, muslins, and handker*
diiefr, that the demand for these articles will soon be
very great, and the sales extensive. I passed two old
decayed churches at Pangalan Bulu, near which are
planted a variety of variegated laurds, called mas

FATIGUING MABCH. 53

Dtedin tlirir fhneral oeremoDies, and whidi aie
VMttlljT planted around the tombs of Hbe dead.
OiM oiftheie Battas had a hair lip.

9Sd January.-^MY patience now became quite
oduuiatedy waiting for the yonng chief; md tl^
ijkoaf^ I saw an evident objection on the part of
Ae Pemagang Haji to my going up the country,
I determined to set out at all risks, with a party of
A naick and six sepoys, six lascars, Mr Brown, and
my dtaugfataman* The Pemagang Haji not having
come down to meet me this morning, agreeably to
promise, I went to his house about seven o'dod^
We waded up to our knees in mud ; a little boy
on h^nrseback preceding us, and showing the chan«
nd of the river, and my people dragging a canoe
hy main force over the shallows. They were in
consequence greatly fatigued before commencing
dieir journey. The Pemagang Haji urged a
variety of objections against my journey, such
as the bad roads, and the danger of an attack
fitm the banditti, and the chance of my people
bong lamed by the ranjaus or sharp bamboos an
the pathways. We started, however, from Panga-
kn Bohi about eight a. m., passed the vilifies of
KaDambir and Dangla, pleasantly situated on the
banks of the river, and reached Kullumpang, the
icndence of Sri Sultan Ahmet, about four o'ckwk,
tnwdfing up to our middle in mud and water in
some places, the paddy here and there giowii^

54 OBJECTS OF INTEREST.

anx our heads two or three feet in scmie places,
loaded with rain ; and as the pathway was narrow,
we were completely drenched. In other places, we
passed akmg pathways with thorny bushes on
either sid^ and had our feces and hands scratdied
all over. I dressed on the side of the river, after
washing off the blood with which my legs were oo*
Tered, from the bites of the small leeches. The
sun was very oppressive all day ; and I think it is
probable the quantity of blood extracted by the
leeches prevented an attack of fever, or more se*
rious consequences, from the excessive heat and ex-
posure to the sun. It was too late in the aflemoon
to proceed frulher, and we accordingly halted for
the night It being necessary to give the Orang
Kaya Soonghal notice of our approach, I dispatched
my writer with a guide on horseback, but they re-
turned shortly afterwards, having met some of the
Orang Kaya's people, who informed them he was
ready to receive mc.

As we approached the village, the people were
just reaping the paddy, which is plucked off by the
ears, and piled up in small stacks or ricks, as we
pile the sheaves in England, containing about two
to five ooyans each ; and the tops of these arc neat-
ly thatched with straw and garlands of flowers,
having a rural effect. The paddy here^ as at
Ddli» is very kmg, and a large grain. A great
faiietj of flowering shrubs surrounded the house.

OBJECTS OF INTEREST. 55

There was an abundance of fruit trees also, par-
ticularly plantains and papaw^ which were the
largest and finest flavoured I ever saw. The pep-
per vines around the house were in fine bear-
ing, and they were just b^inning to pluck the
fiiiit. Some of the vines were supported by dry
poles, others by the bangkudu tree.

The musquitoes were so numerous at noon in
the woods, as to render the travelling extremely
disagreeable. We could not halt a moment with-
out being attacked by thousands of them. We
saw several herds of buffaloes, of an extraordinary
large size. They were fatter and in better keeping
than any bullocks I ever saw in Smithfield market.
They were very wild, and fled at our approach, ap-
pearing alarmed at the red . coats of the soldiers.
The tracks of elephants, tigers, and hogs, were nu-
merous in all the pathways ; and we saw evident
signs of a large herd of elephants having crossed
the pathway on which we were travelling, tlie even-
ing before. These animals sleep during the day,
and we were therefore under no apprehensions of
an attack. In all the marshes snipes were nume-
rous, and rose in large covies : not being fired at,
they were quite tame and fearless. As we passed
the village of Dangla, the people had just caught
41 large elk by a noose, of which they gave us a very
amall portion, which was good and tender. The
natives cut the flesh up into very tlun sUops* and

56 VSGXTABLE PBODUCnOHS.

dry it in the ran. Some of the Makjft tte good
marksmen, and shoot deer in plenty. One man
was pcnnted ont to me at this viUage^ who eonld
kill a large bird with a nngle ball npon a tiee^ and
addom missed. We did not see many serpents cm
oarjoomey. We killed only one beantifiil green
snake, called nmhaka, 8^ feet long. Of the ant
species there was a great variety, some 4^ large as
bees ; and the large red ant, which bites so serere-
ly, dropping from the leaves of trees upon passen*
gers. These insects, united to the musquitoes^
and the small leeches, contributed to render the tra*
veiling extremely painful and disagreeable ; while a
vertical sun over our heads increased the fiitigne of
our journey.

I shall now proceed to enumerate the most re*
markable vegetable productions which I observed in
the woods, without much regard to their arrai^pe*
ment The small chillie, called the Inrd's eye, was
met with in all directions, growing most luxuriant-
ly. Daun nilum, a leaf used for stuffing beds and
pillows, and a considerable article of trade amongst
the natives, was also plentifiiL Of wild peas, there
was a great variety, the flowers of whidi are ex^*
tremdy ddicate. A small yellow fruit, called treng
asam, with a rough coat, fhll of small seeds^ and
resembling in taste a sour go o s cb c iiy, ladier agie»>
able to the palate in a hot day, we also foond in
large quantities, and my pec^ ale plsntifidlj of

VIOXTABLB PBODUCnOHS. SV

tliem» wHhoiit soffiBring any of the liad effeete
I wppnheadtA fiom tbeir great addity. The le^
flMB waa veiy pfentifiil in the jungles, the treea
glowing to a krge siie, and the froit Tery fine»
Giumw were abo growing wild in the woods; oa
had heen planted there, and the seeds being scat*
tered ahout and carried by the birds, prodoeed
Uiat immense quantity of trees which we saw.
The abang abang tree, which is also seen in great
abundance, is used for making charcoal as an in-
gredient of gunpowder ; also the bankiri, of which
we observed many trees. The kakumbo tree,
the bark of which is used as a substitute for
seree, of a strong pungent quality, and the galin-
gan or puting malela, the leaf of which they use for
the core of the small-pox, were also met with in
]denty. We passed many beautiful selaslas trees,
bnt did not observe any hives upon them. The
natives had just stripped them of their precious
load. The bark of these trees is quite smooth,
and the leaves very diminutive. There is seldom
a fanmeh under 60 or 70 feet, which renders the
aseent difficult and dangerous. The benuang treea
were abo numerous. The daun radudu, a medioi-
Bal herb, is also common. The anau tree wasvory
abnndant, and of a particularly large size ; andiat>
tHtt and canes in plenty. The natives use a large
rattan, very common here, called diimmo^ finr draw-
ing np water from the river, and ton crossing the

58 SALUTATION OF TUJS CH1£F.

•tueamwitlL A Tariety <tf Httle omameDUl thnihi
and flowers, like bachelw'8 buttoiia» oaxcomlM^ ke.
fpere abo obeerved at the ndes c£ the pathways
and many other uefiil or ornamental trees and
herbi^ which I had not time to examine and which
I z^g;ret that I do not possess a sufficient acqnain-
tance with the sdenoe of botany to describe. The
joomey was upon the whole very interesting, the
woods being like a garden in some places, where
the natives had partially cleared away the jungle
Here is truly a rich field for the naturalist

On coming near the young chiefs house, the
sepoy guard saluted with five rounds of musketry,
which was immediately returned with the same
number firom swivels laid on the ground. The
firing attracted a large concourse of the Malay and
Batta peasants fix)m the adjoining pepper and pad-
dy plantations, who thought the enemy had come
upon them, and arrived fully prepared to defend
their diief, equipped with their martial accoutre-
ments, and breathless firom the haste with which
they had hurried to the spot. They were assured-
ly a motley assemblage, and an extremely wild and
Mvage looking group. They eyed us with astonish-
ment. The young sultan came out to meet me;
bat being little arqnainted with diplomatic oere-
monies and receiving European visitors (fi)r hehad
■ever Jbeheld a white fiioe befixe), he was a good
cloi) cnbariassadt which appeared lA an affeetalioii of

OPIUM SMOKIK6. 59

(B ta ci rift ci?ilitjr and oomplimeDt On my
off mj hat therefinre in saluting him^ he polled hii
handkfwthief right off hia head, and made a nmi*
br pfofimnd salutation, which is qmte contrary to
aD ndei of Malayan etiquette. They salute by
bending, and nearly touching each other's heads
twice, dasping each others hands lengthways, that
is, the inferior putting hia two clasped hands into
the superior's, who gives them a gentle pressure.
In presenting scree, they are very ceremonious.
Sultan Ahmet is a fine, sensible, good humoured
bd, however, and became quite fiank and unre-

Sultan Ahmet was very inquisitive and eager
fiir information; and with his tutor, a Javanese
priest, who had been on a pilgrimage to Mecca,
imd who has been teaching him to read the koran,
imd instructing him in the mysteries of his reli-
gion, kept me company till midnight, showing no
inclination even then to retire, till I reminded him
nf the fiitiguing journey which I had made, and
that I required rest. I had not seen much opium
gmoldng till to-day ; and those whom I had seen
jddicted to the practice, rather seemed disposed to
flODoeal their vicious propensity ; for such it is con-
pidend by all respectable natives ; but the young
poltan's uncle, Tuanko Marim, unceremoiuonsly
Inoght his pipe and smoking apparatus, ^nd used
|t beside me, as an European would do his hookffh

60 MODE OF CONVEYING A MESSAGE.

or choooL He was a poor emaciated rnddy look-
iii^ nunit aad had all the characteristic marks of
bn^ indulgence in this videos propensity. He
continued whiffing till about nine o'dod^ idben he
retired quite stupified and giddy, and unable to
reach his own threshdd witiimit support He
told me that he used a ball* or one catty, of opium
annually* I presented the young sultan with some
European doths, rose-water, &c and the ssme to his
unde. The letter from lise honourable the gover*
nor was received with due form and ceremony, and
read aloud in the presence of sll his attendants.
At this place, correspondence by letter is little
praetised. Shortly after our arrival, a messenger,
with SO attendants, arrived from the Orang Kaya
Soonghal, with a handsome sword or kris panjang,
wrought with gold filagree; and communicated
the Orang Kaya*s directions to take possession of
a prow at Bulu China, the commander of whidi
had died. In conversing with some of these peqile
who had just arrived, one ci them informed me
that he had been trading in the interior a fisw

months befixe^ and lost one of his companions^ who
was killed and eaten by the Battas near the great
lake, because he wore a short sarong whidi is con-
sidered very inddieate amongst a certain tribe of
Battas, and a great insult They wear their gar-
ments down to their fret The Battas at Kiilhnn-
pang are of the tribe of Karan Karsa. 11i^

BATTA CULTIVATOXS. 61

tmb emy • small bag over their shoulder, con-
taiDU^ dieir seree and rokos, or small cheroote,
made of diag tobacco, rolled in a dry leaf, of which
they make a moet profiue VMe, being seldom a
niniite without one in their mouths. They leave
their wives and children on the mountains, and
come down to cultivate pepper, returning general-
ly once in the year for a few days, with the fruits
of their industry. They resemUe the Chinese a
good deal in their frugal habits, and desire of col-
lecting money. They keep the pepper gardens
beautifrdly dean. Sultan Ahmet has about 200
of these Battas in constant employ at his gardens,
dose to Kullumpang, which produced last year 50
coyans or ISOO peculs, and the quantity is increas-
ing annually, a number of young vines coming
gradually into bearing. We observed many small
boats plying up and down the river, and there was
an appearance of bustle and trade very different
from what we observed at Delli. The small
house in which we slept, used as a hall of audience
generally, was open all round, and we were ex-
posed all night to a heavy dew, and cold piercing
wind. It was elevated upon slender posts, about
eight feet from the ground, very ricketty, and
being overloaded, we were in momentary expecta-
tion of its falling down, and burying us in its
rains.

FEiiRV. ei

many boats passing down the river with pepper
during the day.

At all the villages we passed, we sent a person
in advance to give notice of our coming, to prevent
the women and children from being alarmed^ We
saw numbers of girls about seven and eight years o(
age, in a perfect state of nudity. At the small
village of Tanjong Mangosta, the chief of which is
Datu Tubba, brother of the Orang Kaya Soonghal,
and to whom I made a small present, we had
to cross the river, which is very deep and rapid,
60 yards wide. Some of the lascars mounted the
horses and swam them across ; but the velocity of
the current swept them away at least 100 yards
down the river before they could reach the oppo-
site shore, which was elevated, and had steps or
stairs, which the little animals clambered up most
dexterously. I crossed in a canoe made of the
trunk of a small tree scooped out ; only two pas-
sengers could cross by this narrow canoe at a time,
which rendered the passage tedious. Some of my
attendants being rather impatient, overloaded the
boat, and were upset several times ; but being expert
swimmers, they suffered no other injury than the
wetting of their clothes. We shortly afterwards
came to a romantic little village, called Tanjong
Sabdi, so completely obscured by trees, that it was
Hot observed till we fcame close upon it. The vene*
fable chief of this village, Datu Tindal, came out to

M VENEBABLE CHIEF.

meet wl Tfaii old man appeared to be upwaidi
of 100 yean of age» with a long pure white beaid»
hanging down to hit middle. Jie had been thua
long in the world, and never saw a white fiiee
before. Hia people had just killed a fine stag,
part of whidi he presented to me^ in return for a
small present of doth which I gave him. His
kampong was well stocked with ooooa-nut, betd-nut,
and jack trees, and every thing around bespoke
quiet, content, and domestic happiness. His great-
grand-children were stout bojrs of 10 years of age^
quite naked like the girls. Poultry seemed very
plenty here^ and is protected against the dvet
cats, which are very numerous and destructive^
by strong palisades dosdy lashed together un-
der their houses. We saw a good deal of Indian
com growing, called jagong. The katimahar tree,
which grows on the banks of the river, and the
leaves of which make a fine vegetable for curry,
was also abundant. The wood is used for makii^
sheaths for swcnds and creeses. From the byan er
lingaseed, the natives extract oO. This is a great
article of trade here.

On approadiing Soongfaal^thin four miles^ there
is an extensive marsh, the ground all around it
being condderably devated. We then entered
upon a beautiful open plain of two or three miles
extent, which Immght us to the village, where we
arrived late in the afternoon. We were met at the

RECEPTION OK APPROACHING SOONOHAL. 66

distance of a quarter of a mile, by a party of a
hundred men, wdl armed. The Orang Kaya's ne-
phew, Datu Malela, a dissolute, opium*smoking
young man of twenty, met us, and gave us rather
an inhospitable reception. He mformed me it was
necessary I should change my teowsers for a sarong
or petticoat, and that the sepoys must do the name,
and take the flints from their muskets, when we
should be admitted into the village, but on no
other conditions ; and he added, that he was pre-
pared to resist any attempt to force our way in^
unless we complied with these terms. I found
that such was certainly the case ; for my Malay
writer, who had gone in advance, saw a^ number of
swivels loaded, and a quantity of gunpowder eJt-
posed to the sun to dry. This youi^ man con-
ducted himself in a most uncourteous manner ; and
h was the only instance of a want of hospitality
which I experienced during the whole of my voy-
age. He aocompanied his observations with rather
violent gestures, hokfing a sword in his ha»d;
Mad, knowing how readily these people week them-
sdves up to a phreazy, though perhaps diey had
anginally no hostile designs, I turned round to ray
amaB. escort, and desired them to be on tho alert.
The naick, a fine spirited fellow, who* had been; at
the captinre of Java» was anxious to fire, and asked
me in hb own language if he should dispatofa* the
young diief^ who was speaking to me Mtb snksfa

ILAfir.

Ud MISTAKEN IMPUKSSIilNs;.

violence. Being prepared tlien £or the wont, I
calmly remonstrated with the young man, holding
my commission in one hand, and a sabre in the
odier. I told him that the object of my missioii
was quite pacific ; and that, if there was any objeo*
tion to my reception, he ought to have sent me pre-
vious notice, and not to have allowed me to come so
long a journey. I informed him also, that it was
quite contrary to all our rules of good breeding to
wear a petticoat ; and that I should bring dis-
grace upon myself and my employers, by comply*
ing with so ridiculous a custom; and I assured
him, that when he favoured me with a \isit at Pi-
nang, he should be at liberty to wear any dress he
pleased. The jocose manner in which I uttered
this address, seemed to have the desired effect, and
he b^;an to smile. 1 added, that unless I was
unconditionally admitted, and received with pro-
per respect, as an agent of the Pinang govuv-
ment, and my people with their arms and accoutre-
ments upon them, I would instantly retrace ay
steps, and take up my quarters for the night witli
the elephants and tigers. His features now assum*
ed a more placid expression ; and seeing my detei^
mination, he consented to our entering the village
unoonditionally. The cause of this extraordinary
conduct I aft^wards ascertained. He was an ad-
herent and friend of the R^ah Pulo Barian ; and
tht sultan of Ddli, the very day I quitted him.

RECEPTION BY O&ANO KAYA SOONOHAL. 91

iMid triacT the eflfeet of the h^e fun bebnging to
the idiooMr, one of tlie balls fired frfan which wtt
padnced to me by Tnanko Malela, who inqinied
jrihadamtedthesnlUmwithanmi. Thbbdng
lioa etphdnied setisfiietorUy, he was heait% sil^^
ed of his conduct ; and I endeavoured furdier t6
URBgthen thete impressions on his mind by mark-
ed attention to him.

I was eondncted to the hoofiie of the panglimai^
wimre I had not waited long, when theOrangKaya
Vfivedt and seated himself upon the pyebald skin
of a hon^ another being prepared for me. I found
it radier irksome sitting for two hours with legs
iaRM Kke a tailor ; but I was obliged to submit ;
ftr there was nothing in the shape of A chati^.
The Qraag Kaya is a respectable looking man,
iboot 45 years of age. His three sons, Sedu!
Ha s iif d L DaHl, and Mahini, handsome youths,
widt very fiur complexions, accompanied him. I
Iset no time in explaining to him the reception I
hid' met with from his nephew» who had m^

to; a dtttant comei^ of the room, in whidi
wete at least 800 men assemUed. He le^

^ Ah ! this young man is quite beyond tti[f
^iDoirtRNil : if I teH him to go to the right; Hi
*fsee to the ItkT The Orang Kaya leceiredniK
fMr attention, and we had a long cOnveisa^rtt
iqp(Hi #10 trade of the country. He cxprc sieJldtt^
Silf mdi pleased at my mterference in the diflbM

m SAYAQf BATTAi.

j«MB8t 4i Ddii* and ditapprovts of the foltan^s pro^
«c«diBg8 on tfaiB occasum. fie bean the svltan a#
fpodwillt aa4 was at war with himahmtt a year
afpp. Althoas^ there is ao apparent reeoDciliatkMi»
1 think it wntj piofaaUe that thejr wiU ere kng he
Involved iQ fisih disputes

Soenghal is a pretty lookii^ ph^e^ situated oi
h]{^ banks, in some pUuxs 80 fieet hi(^ An ex»
ehange of salutes took place ; and I gave the Oiang
jBuiya and his sons swne pieces <tf doth as presents,
^esmt methe head of a calf which had just been
killed* and the dried flesh of deer. The principal
inhabitants of this place are Battas, a rery dark
iUrkoking race. They wear bracelets of goUL sit
ver, ai)d copper on their ann% and rings on their
fingers and toes. There is a ?ery laige populataoB
of Battas in this quarter* who cultivate peppo;
They have no religiqn at all. Very few are coiw
yert^ to the MalMuqetan fiuth. They are esu
eeedingly ^thy about their houses ; the one whieh
wn ocfHfied being filled above and bekm with
bone% skulls of bufiUoes^ and some large monkeyi^
baviqg so gr^ a resemblance to human bene^ ae
to eicite qot the most pleasurable idea% and aaiMk
pidoQ in the m^nda <^ my people, that we had got
into the coimtry of the cannibals. Iwasaunoonded
dvii^ the ewni|ig.with the following panglima^
whp ipfo tt»s sopffintfndanto of the pepper phmta*
t^;--viJL LeHy, Pffdop. Biinda» Pann, Mnaa-

oocuPAnom dukwo thi night.

WAr V^poiHI^ «>^ Leba-nubi ; aH tf the lUMt
trikm, iilnw pmciittl iaquiriei wite «oti<Mnfi]]|f
fc fiiM of poriL iDrmy eMmtrf . WopaiiedliMi
ii|^ imoigfl thefBi and a huAwl nwwt w bh ivfld
aiMigefi aaenoMed in tl»e ktgie nam mhate^ dMT
Onaiff Ka]F»lid4tb0andieBoe^ They did not M^

ll»tomltiatbettorai]%< Tk^ ^tave caBeeladl
iM»«naIl gnmfieaaf 1^ and Iff, tit fttoiMMltto
iMn, iDMldAg opiBaov playitf^ at oniaiD)* caYdsy utii
dn^ iMM ihavjMdng fh^i^ Dt^[lit ^tteiring avoids
mii tfteaas^ oihefn pottahia^ fia# sheaf ha» &e. It
MM^ altogadier aa ^vHld a seette as I have ever wit*
er iriik to aee ag^. My sentry tiad n^
amdtfiu time ot it, and none of my party
^ ^ ^ i ya ll v«ry aannd repose. I own I did not hA
mfifdf nnldi at ease amongst such a set of wild
i ila |iita» Wlio^ ttBBted neither God nor man.

The Kooaes at Soonghal are hnrge and commo-
dkMtt. Tlie mdes, or pannels, are euriously made
wMf fteila fbn feet high, lashed togellrer with
A0 1^ eaid, Beafty worked, projecthlj^ inwards he*
liWy add otttwards above. There is a Isi^ centM
the whole length of the honsi ; a veranddtf
Me side depressed abont a foot ; and on die
itde^ levd with the laigc room, a* row of smdl
Afoai fonr feet wide by six feet long. I
kiVie fWHttked before, that the girls at Bnin CMnil
kiVis^lAtle or no dothing ; but at SoongM they

yt STRANGE Ci;8TOif&

m» «& drased. It it strange^ that in m dwvt %
dittanoe theie ihcmid be such a mari^ differenea
in mannaEa, the Malays being aa werj indelicate»
tad tha Battas so much the reverse. With dl
their boasted ddicaey, howeFer, at Soonghal, I
ohaeryed aome men aod women pasting across tho
n?er without any clothing at aU. They are ob*
Kged to wade across the river, the stream being
too wide and rapid to admit of a bridge> whidi
would be carried away by the heavy floods. .
'. Mth Jmmary.—^ThjB morning immense crowds
of Battas from the j^antations had aasembled
avoimd the house, to look at ns with wonder-gasing
eyes. The Orang Kaya b^^ged me to allow the
aqpoys to go through their manceuvres, whidi they
did to the great delight of hundreds of astonished
spectators. The exercising ground was on a small
itUnd in the centre of the river, called Pnlo Pantei^
on which also I obterved a number of buUockt,
buffidoei^ and hortes, all in good condition. From
this fdaee we saw the hills (Gunong Sebaya)^
whefs the Ri^ Sebaya linga resides. This chief
haa a house at Soonghal, which waa dose to the
bouse where we stopt His unde^ Datu Tabeo
Kum Sdiaya Kampong Purbitit waa the occupier
of the houae^ and I requested him to tend and in*
vite the Bjyah Sebaya to come down and meet me
fit the brig. Thit diief it £md of travelling about
(he country^ and hat about 15 wivet with tqpaii^

B£TCNT10N OF A GUIDE. 71

otsfaluimients in all diflbrcnt parts ; so that he is
ahwfs at home wherever be goes*

A young laA who had aoeompanied. us from
Boltt CUna, and to whom I gave two ddkurs for
rsadiicting xm, kit 21 dollars the evening we a^^
rived, toone of the Battas; and in the morning he
■jtwrcd with his creditor, a most fenxnona lookinff>
fdlow, and requested me to pay the debt, allegii^
ii vras one of old standing ; that this man was a
idative of his, and was ashamed to confess that he
had been i^Uing. Not knowing, however, the
extent of his propensities in that way, and appro*
hensive that he might incur similar debts, I per-
asitted him to be bound, according to the custom
af the plaoe. If he had refused to submit to this,
the creditor might have put him to death with im-
punity. He was removed to the house of the cre-
ditor, bonnd hand and foot, where he would re-
main till the debt was liquidated, or, if he chose, he
mi^t sdl himself in order to pay it. I was inform-
ed that this lad was an incorrigible gambler ; and
he had no doubt been encouraged to go to such an
extent, under an idea that I would relieve him. .
' I did not observe any manu&ctures at Soonghal,
the inhabitants being wholly devoted to agricul-
tme^ and exchanging its products for the manu£M>
tmm of other countries. Next to pepper, the
fmidpal produce is gambier, of a vary superior
^■dity. The Battas here have a curious custom

7S PREPARATIONS FOR RETURNING.

of pttdni^ R little iqime pieee of irinte ckllw
aometiinei in theihqpeof r cmm, on thoir doA
whidi they wear zomid their dMiaUaflL

I would lunre penetmted further into the
phntRtione^ oonld I hare mlrnhted iqpon
ooDR For my own part, I was satkBed widi
R little salt fish and riee» a faiseoit, or any thi^g
fHae; bnt my people hq;an to eomplain, Thqr
did not feel themselves very eomfortable amongst
SQch a savage looking set of people. Their legs
were tired, and sore from the Intes of the leeches;
and the want of their usual meals was more than
they could patiently bear.

Among many suggestions for the improvement
and increase of trade between this country and
Finang, the Qrang Kaya» and indeed all the chiefr
I mety spoke of the advantage that would aocnw
from a settlement at the island of Pank<^ Num-
bers of their prows have been compelled to extend
their voyages down the straits, in consequence of
the apprehension of pirates there, and the ddmf
has been very ruinous to them. They assured me^
that if a station were formed thcHre, to protect them
against pirates, they would flock in immense nnm-
bcrs to I^ang, and even the Battas would venture
across in small boats to trade. They find a great
difiiculty in procuring fire-arms for the defimee of
their prows. They even qpcak of the advantage
which o( late years they have derived from tltar

JLSAV£ 800NOHAU 78

olearing away of Fob Bimaii^ and from the etta*
Uishment e£ guaids around Finang. Previous to
the adoption by gOYOmment of diese measuie^ the
pirates used to lurk in all the creeks and small
bays around the ishnd ; and when these poor paspla
thought they had reached the end of theur voyagey
Aay were exposed to be attacked and plundered
ofall they possessed, carried away to other coun*
tlies, and sold as slaves. Such dangors tended
greatly to discourage the intercourse between these
states and Finang» which has, however, improved
greatly during the few last years, in oonsequenee
of the beneficial measures that have be^i adopted.
The Qrang Kaya having engaged to come down
the river in five (Ht six days to visit the vessd, and
having hired a small canoe for 10 dollars,, whkh
with difficulty held my party, I left Soongbal at
eight o'clock in the morning, and sailed down the
river at the rate of six knots an hour. The sinu-*
osity of this river is much greater than the Delli ;
and in turning some of the sharp angles, the dan-
ger was great, the river being vay shaUow in
some perts, and full of large trees and rocks. The
Malays managed the canoes in the most dexterous
mannitf. The old noqueda to whom it bekmged,
however, and who had chaige of the helm, was in a
sad state of alarm, and was constantly crying out
to balance the boat, or we should be upsets a pro^
spect by no means agreeable to me. He was par-

fei.

74^ VISIT TO A MALAY PRINCESS.

ticulnr in giving the women due notice of our ap^
pcoach, by bawling out, long ere we came ui
sight of the villages, *' bonh," as he did not at all
relish the idea of a fine of 16 dollara, the penalty
enacted by the diief, for approaching any woman
when she is bathing, without sounding the usual
alarm. We passed many pretty Uttle villages and
kampongs, with thriving plantations, on each side
of the river. The v^tation was truly rich, b«t
the soil not equal to that up the Delli river. The
black mould was seldom more than two, threes and
fimr feet deep.

We reached KuUumpang at noon, and met
Sultan Alimct on horseback, going up to Soong-
hal; but he returned and accompanied me to'
Kampong Ikndar, where the accommodation boat
was stationed. On our way down wo paid a visit
to his sister, Rajah Wan Chindra Dewi, ^ife of
the Kejuruan Muda of I^angkat* whose sepa-
ration from him has been one of the principal
causes of the war between the sultan of Delli sad
tile rajah of Langkat. The old sultan took the
part of the young lady, who had been slighted after
marriage by her husband, and pronounced a fiMrmal
divorce. She received us in a most unembarraand
manner, seated upon a handsome rug, and decked
out with jewels, having in her ears a pair of ria^
considerably larger than dollars, of solid gold, a
quarter of an inch in tliickness, introduced into the

D£SCUPTION OF HER DIWELLING. Tlx

amity of the ear. She was not remarkably howi^^'
ev€r, fwthe beanty of her person, her fiuoe being*
omefa digfigured with the small-pox. I presented
Imt with a; shawl and ^pieoe' of muslin. She is a*
gttfttpe^^r^trader^ and lives at a tillage called
Kullambir, beantifiilly situated on an ele^at^-
shore of the riv^. The kampong was ftiH'Of
^ats and poultry, but the inhabitants had an
aversion to sell any. The house was large aild
eomfortable, the door- way at one end, and the'
eooking place close to the entrance, in a low veran-
da, depressed about two feet below the place of au-'
dience, or principal apartment. The principal
articles of furniture I observed was a huge sleeping
place, ornamented with rugs and curtains hung all
round, a quantity of brass talams or large plates and
pigdannies> all bright, and neatly arranged round
the walls of the house ; mats of very fine and neat
texture, seree boxes, &c. Our stay was very short,
and we made all haste to Fangalan Bulu, which
we reached at sun-set. Here I found the messen-
ger whom the sultan of Delli had sent to the Ra^
jah Sebaya Linga, with my jacket, bearing a gold
eovered kris. We got our baggage shifted into
the accommodation boat, and the moon rising, we
were enabled to leave Kampong Bendar at seven
cj^dock in the evening, and we did not reach the
brig till three o'clock in the morning, after a hard
^nd fatiguing pull at the oars the yvhoh nightf

a.\-

9S lUVOEES IM THE MlYEau

We had a dBBculfc paMga ptit tk m
btati Mtt tht TiUtge; and the hoat teok tte
groimd eiiee or tvriee^ fljing zooBd like a dM# t^^
beiBg a ttfong ebb ^nng fide. ThedMDMlhflv
ia mry difileBlt» and the ladnagfat ef tks Maft
bqpa and credu lendaa it cxticnMlj tieldMMne
ta naaage a boat A aaqneda ef a pwir ikem Fi^
nang; aaeiag w in Aflkditf, and naming find ol
append MaUy pieifa» and our boat pawing dew
with alamting vdodty vpon a dangeeoaa and*
baaky jumped into hia imall boat with fimr or ive
of Mb peo]^ and in an initant» with kng polei;.
gave the boat a different eowse. My people eoold
not manage the gakaatall, and oanwere of na
naa. Just at this critiad time» in CTorting mjaeIC
I dipped, and £dlii^ upon the dnarp edge of •
yknk, I by ahnost aensdest lor some minoiMb
The noqueda was no doubt the means of sating dw
beat from destniction. It is nurely that the Ma»
lays display such aetivity. They aie in gsneni
indifieient to all around diem ; but they
livdy sense of gntitude; and this man had
under some trifling obligation to me at Fina^g.

About ten o^clodc we were suddenly invebed
ia perfeet obseurity, an eclipse of the meon taking
ylsee^ whidi lasted for two hours; during whish
tfasrc was an incessant firing of guns at the ?ilagal^
to assist the meon^ as the Mate Mate told us^ in ita
disliass. The old wemaa all the while

anrauf TO THS BS1& n

Imipp rtai makiBg Urn mosk fisigliftM iioiie»

^ O Sun, let go th€ Kom.'' It
4» ofaMnre tht siqperftikioas ▼agttioi
rftint flii wwiii> I had bMB timmt tefen daya
iMitliaMg, nd liad the aatiafrotiim of findiog
fft«s haatd ivriL Three ot fimr people vho had
le wipaM ed aae, fetoraed with howel eomidamta.
I tee waa attad^ed; and bciag almeat cihaiiated
with tisf^faEig, aaxietyt want of rest, wet clothe^
•id had dki^ I was ebl%;ed to lay myself up the
frHowii^ day on board.

i&h J^Mmary. — ^Remained on board the farig
dl day, lyi^g in Sungei Kapab Aiding.
* STtt JoMMiry .--^Tbe yard and saU of the aooom^
MsJatien boat being too large and unwieldy, I was
dUlged to reonin on board while the necessary aL-
ttntiom weips making. I also made a shifting
ded^ ftr the preservation of the provisions^ and for
Ihe feeple te sleep upon. Aiq)rdiensive that the
Mb esSeeted in the vessel might produce diseaas^
lesaMd every thing to be brought on deck, the

waa deaned out below, and all the stoiea va-
te. Tuan Oah, an acquaintance of ndne
al Finasf^ eame on board. He had lately arrifid
tarn Assahan, and had twelve slaves on boar^
friaiipdBy fapaales, fertheOrang Kaya SoenghaL
BaboQi^ than for 40 and 45 doUara each» and
to get 100 in barter for pepper. £bvi^g

that the aultan of Delli had not only bMke»

38 uePABTURIC POK si&dasg.

Im promise of not firing the gun belonging to tht
iehooncr, bnt sent for more shot, which mt icfittd
by the witter, I sent Mr Stmurt awfty imrnediatdy
to bring down the gun, and took the oppavtonity of
writing to the sultan, to infiNrm him of my ictam
finom Soonghal^ and of the intention of the Oraag
Kaya to oome down in fife days with the Raf ah
Sebaya Linga, for the purpose of endeawmring to
put an immediate stq) to hostile prooeedingi:
Made preparations for going to Siidang in the
morning.

Mtk Jamtary.—Jjdt the brig this morning at
eight, in the lai^ boat, for Sirdang, t6 people on
board, and Noqneda Ungoh as my pilot Passed
down the Kwalah BeUwan. The diamel to Delli
finr prows is round the point, where a sand4tanlr is
hid down in the diart There are two ssads^ hi-
tween whieh there is a sife ehannd, though nanom
We passed Sungei Dua and Sungei Pkdo Fsngfii*
ma, and then came to Ujong Purling, a low pM*
jeeting point, off which is a shallow mud bank
We sailed along in one fiithom, dxmt li mSaina
the shore, and afterwards passed Sungo LaDsng
and Sungei Tuan. We had a fine bvee»all iay^
and a most ddightful sail

We entered the Sirdang rher at fimr is fjtub^
te m oop , and met a laige pepper prow at the monflt,
going to Pinang^ which was the first uppostunity
I had of writing since my arrival on this fSMk T^

ROSPITABL£ RECemON BY THK CHIEFS. 7*

tlie ti^rt» IB going into the river, is a small greek
qpei oC b^ gioand, with a sandy beaeh, which va^
iW ^ tieDe a litU^ the whole coast along whidi
Me had aaikd to-day being very low, and the traei
growing in the water. We andioied at Kampoi^
KaUambir, about six short reaches up, at half-piM
Ive o'elodc, and were met by the clnef^ Tuank^
Senaan, who hurried on board to welcome my arri^
vaL I had seen this young man at Pinang a few
years ago. This is one of the finest places I havb
yet visited, being situated on tolerably high ground,
at a short distance from the sea. The houses too
are larger, and more substantially constructed than
any we had yet seen ; and there is an appearance
of perfect tranquillity^ and an air of confidence
about the inhabitants, extremely pleasing. I dia-
patched Noqueda Noordin with the letter and some
presents to the Sultan Besar, who is up the conn:-
try amongst the pepper plantations. Fell in wiA
c^ht large prows loaded with pef^r, about to safl
fer Pinang. The Delli river being dosed, the
pqpper which would have come down that river
now finds its way down the Sirdang. This piaCb
haa never been viatcd by Europeans, nor is .ill
name to be found in any chart extant. I was ni^
fermed by Tuanko Seman, that the: Rajah Pttk
Barian having heard a ridiculous story of my^ liail-
iqg brought 40 Siamese and 60 sepoys to assist the
Mdtanof Delli, he had sent. to engage a partf^ef

80 SPOBTINO.

Bittas of the tribe Katann, finr the purpoKof eat»
log any of my men who might be shun in battle*

39th JanfMify.*-*Before sun-rise this momiDg;
and while the trees were yet dripping with dew, I
went out with Tuanko Scanan, his younger brother,
and a huge company of men and boy% to look ftr
game. We walked up a most charming plain
about a mile, 200 yards wide, quite dear, and a
good road in the middle. The birds were in great
variety. The Malays were quite delighted to see
the Inrds and monkeys fall from the trees, and
diottted with joy, penetrating into the thickets to
bring them out, every time that I fired. This b
by fiur the most pleasant spot I have seen in any
Malay country, llie natives here are very partial
to quail fighting. A good fighting quail is worth
aigfat dolhrs. It is astonishing to see the despcia-
tMi of these little birds, which pinch each othor^
bills with the most savage violence. After break-
ftat, I went to wait upon the chief, by special invi-
tatioBy and a small repast was prepared for ne. I
then went in eoanpany with him to visit Ua fi^
ihttf^ tomln a large building of wood neatly earv-
ad» ind a mtagid or church, which is of great anfi-
%«ity. The little boys were plunging in theriver
dl day long; and the women were less timid m
thair manners, (bathing before us), than at the
other plaees we visited. Their bathing plaees ut
sumanded with strong stockades, as a proteetian

EXCURSION AT THE VILLAGE OF KALLAMBIR. 81

against the alligators, which are v^ Bionerous and
fierce. The women wear large rings on their arms.
I never saw such a multitude of children in so
small a place. They were actually swarming like
bees. We got some fine fish for dinner, called the
siakxtp and siakup batu. Fowls were also abun-»
danti We purchased twelve huge, or twenty
small ones, for a dollar. In the evening, I again
went out with Tuanko Seman, to look at his gac-»
den, which is two miles behind his house, where he
has a variety of little flowers and shrubs ; and he
displays considerable taste in the mode of laying it
out. We passed through some paddy fields : the
grain had been nearly all destroyed by rats, which
are very destructive, insomuch that they were
dbliged almost to abandon the cultivation of paddy
ia these parts. In the interior it succeeds better.
The sugar-^cane grows to a large size. Tuanko
Seman had caught a very large tiger in his garden
a few days before. The bears are very numerous
here, and destructive to the cocoa-nut trees, of
wUch we saw many whidi they had entia?ely de-
stroyed. The buffaloes were not so large or fat as
those at Bulu China ; nor do I think the gf ass is
so mitriticms, being close to the sea. T^ nmsqui-
toes hei^ wexe nune numerous, large, and tronUe-
some than I had yet found them. Their attafils
yfmxe so persevering, that I could not dose my eyes
aU night.

t$it

B2 DEPARTURE FOR KAMPONG BE8AR«

30th January. — Just as the sun nwe, we start*
ed from Kallambir for Kampong Besar, accompft-
nied by Tuanko Seman. llie sides of the rirer
became low and muddy, and the river shallow.
We grounded ?ery often ; but being soft mud, the
boat sustained no injury. At Kampong Dorian
the soil improves. As in the other rivers, the cur-
rent runs very strong, and we were obliged to podi
the boat on with poles. In some places its rapi-
dity could not be overcome even by this expedient ;
and we were obliged to anchor, and fasten a rope
to a tree on the side of the river, by which we
contrived slowly to drag ourselves against the
stream. The approach to the villages may always
be known by a clump of cocoa-nut and betel-nut
trees, which wave their heads above the others at
a distance. Every village has one or more Be»-
dar Saws, or places of resort for travellers, and
for worship. The river is very narrow, with short
reaches.

We arrived at Kampong Besar late in the even-
ing, my lascars quite worn out The sides of the
river were covered with men, women, and childreB,
who looked at us with surprise. We anchored near
the sultan*s house. I had very excellent Mpoit
coming up the river, and shot the following bircb,
viz. the bangow, white paddy bird, burong dar,
puchang, grey ditto^ the enow enow, and many
beautiful king's fishers. The adjutant dob was

VAKIOUS RACES OF PEOPLE. 83

also very plentiful in the paddy fields ; and the
woods swarmed with the most beautifnl butterflies
I ever beheld, of various and delicate hues.

On my arrival at Kampong Besar, the Jang de
per tuan, and Tuanko Angal, the sultan's brotiiier,
came on board to meet me : the sultan had not
yet arrived, but was expected immediately from his
pepper gardens. Tuanko Angal was easily dis-
tinguished to be a man of rank, not so much from
his dress, which was rather shabby, as firom a long
thumb nail. Some allow the nails of the little
finger only to bear this distinction, and to grow two
and three inches.' They consider this a sign that
they are not obliged to work with their hands, and
are men of rank.

There were a great many Battas of the Kataran
tribe at Kampong Besar. They are a fine, stout,
well-limbed, good-looking, fair race, with open ex^
prcssive countenances, their faces more round, and
lips not so thick as the Malays. They eat human
flesh. If one of their companions is wounded,
they kill and eat him. The place they come from
is Dolo. They were dressed principally in cloths of
their own manufacture. There were also many
Alas people, Malays who come firom the interior of
Sinkel, on the west coast, and bring gold, benja-
min, camphor, &c, and carry back cloths in ex-
diange. They are Mussulmen, dark complexion-
edy and a civil» well-spoken, inoffensive race, subsist^^

84 MEETING WITH THE SULTAN.

iDg principally upon fruit. Their chiefe issue pe-
remptory injunctions against the use of q^um.
Although the Battas, and many others, had never
seen an European before, they approached me with
an air of confidence and good will, and without
the least restraint or embarrassment

The sultan arrived at six o'clodL. His approach
was announced by the firing of muskets, blunder-
busses, &C. at a small distance in the woods. I
met him near his houses and saluted with five
rounds from eight muskets. He received me with
great cordiality. Tuan Mahoodin, a relation of
the sultan, accompanied him to my boat, where
they remained two hours, conversing and amusing
themselves with prints and other curiosities, whidi
I generally carried with me for the amusement
and instruction of these people. Meanwhile one
of my boat's crew was amusing a large conooune
which surrounded us, with some airs upon my
violin. An immense crowd of Battas, Alas peojde^
and Malays, lined the margin of the river. I a£>
terwards went on shore, and found the f<dkwing
chiefs assembled with the sultan, to all of whom I
made small presents, viz. Rajah Dolo, a Batta
chief, Orang Kaya Lelu, Rajah Tanjong Merawa,
Tiuin Sehimbian, and the Ulubalangof the Rajah
Seantar. They all confirmed the existence of
nibalism. The king observed, ** when they
^ down amongst us dviliied Malays, they leave off

SICKNESS OF THE SULTAN'S SISTER. 85

** their bad practices, but take to them again on
^ their return." I observed no one smoking opium
at Sirdang, and I believe the inhabitants are a quiet,
abstemious, inoffensive people, entirely engaged in
agriculture and commerce. Prows in the springs
come down from Kampong Besar. Some parts of
the river are extremely shallow ; other parts S and
3 fathoms. The shallow water is generally off the
points. There were about 25 prows, some of a
large size, lying up the river, taking in cargoes of
pepper.

Slst January. — ^This morning I went, agree*
ably to appointment, to the sultan's, to take my leave,
but his sister had been taken suddenly ill during
the night, and all was confusion. Her aged mother
was running about the house in a state of absolute
distraction, screaming and tearing her hair, and
evincing an excess of parental affection—

'' Ties that around the heart are spun^
" And will not^ cannot be undone."

Indeed all the people seemed to express the deepest
distress at the sickness of the young woman, and her
expected dissolution ; and I was much impressed
By this amiable trait in the character of the Sirdang
people, and by their lively sensibility.

The alarm, however, appeared to be unnecessaiy,
as my native doctor visited the invalid, and prescribe
ed a dose of salts, which her attendant($ wished to

86 VISIT FROM THE CHIKFS.

rub on her fiu;e, and which she could not be prcr
vailed upon to swallow. A little calomel was then
administered; and her subsequent recovery, of
which I afterwards heard, was attributed to this
medicine.

The following chiefs came on board this mom-
ing : Rajah Suibajadi, Sultan Baick, Tuanko Darat
(rajah of Pulo Nebong), Tuanko Tungal*s son,
Tuanko Long, and rajah of Pebowangan, who lives
at Paku» of Menangkabau descent. The sultan
had sent also for the rajah of Ferchoot to meet
me, but I could not wait for him. The sultan
came on board again, and remained about an hour,
giving me such information as I required relative to
the commerce of the country, &c. Rajah DolOi
the Batta chief before-mentioned, a stout, athletic,
handsome man, with a fair complexion, and a noble
independent carriage, about 38 years of age, came
on board with a host of followers. He lives at
Kota Silotuigian, two days journey from KuDpong
Besar ; he has 800 ryots under him, who cultivate
pepper, paddy, tobacco, cotton, and gambier. He
is of the Kataran tribe, and candidly acknowledg-
ed being very partial to human flesh, of which he
had often partaken. He had several Innrses with
him at Kampong Besar, stout, dean limbed, active
little animals, in excellent condition. Every thing
was new to him ; the watch, compass, ftc astonish-
ed him particularly. J know nothing which it is

KETURN DOWN THE BIVER. 87

more amusing to contemplate than the first feel*
ings of surprise which such objects, the products
of high dvilization and art, impress on the minds
of savages.

We departed from Kampong Besar at 11 o'clodc
A large party of chiefs escorted me to the river
side. The Sirdang people are extremely unsuspi-
cious and frank in their manners, and live under a
mild and benevolent government, so far as I could
judge. The sultan is quiet and modest, but little
acquainted with the ways of the world. He ap-
peared very desirous for instruction ; and begged
me to translate any thing interesting relating to
!Europe or Bengal, which, he said, would be most
acceptable ; for, said he, ** I am but young, and
•* wish to learn." In passing down the river, the
naick shot an alligator, at the distance of 100 yards,
with his musket. He is an excellent marksman,
and hit the animal twice on the same spot, the most
vulnerable part of the body, behind the head. We
found only the bones of a large bird in the stomach.
It measured 12 feet in length. We reached EjiI-
lambir about five o'clock ; and after landing Tuanko
Soman, proceeded to the mouth of the river, where
^ding the wind setting in strong against us, and
a heavy swell outside, we anchored for the night

1*/ February. — At three o'clock left the Sir-
dang river, and steered for Kwalah Belawan, the
wind against us, and the boat leaking excessiv^y.

88 RETUBN FROM SIRDAKO TO D8IXI.

As Perchoot (an intervening post which it was myin-
tention to visit) is under the authority (tf Dellit and
as there was ev^ probability of misung the ngah,
who had been invited to meet me at Sirdang^ and
as I was apprehensive I should be too late for the
chiefe from Soonghal, I passed the Perchoot river.
We reached the Inrig in the af^moon, having
been absent five days. Employed the remainder
of the day in repairing the leaks of the boat» and
making preparations for the voyage to Lang^uit.
The schooner Suffolk had dropped down ak>ngaide.
The Orang Kay a had sent notice of his arrival two
days ago at Pangalan Bulu ; and I sent Mr Luther
and Mr Stuart to bring him to the vessel. Dur-
ing my absence, a party of upwards of SOO men»
women, and children, had come down from Buln
China to sec the vessel. The Qrang Kaya's SM
had also come down, and was received with a salntt
and every attention, by my friend Mr Camegy.

id February. — ^Mr Luther and Mr Stuart i6»
turned from Pangalan Bulu, having seen the Qnuig
Kaya, who promised to come down at no(Hi with
the Kajah Sebayu Singa's son. I went up la
Kampong Alei, and took with me a variety of pra»
sents for the sultan, his son, (Sultan Muda), hit
brother Tuanko Wan Kumbang, and to Naooda
Unguh and the Mata Mata, who had made them*
selves so usefiiL On going up the liver, 1 saw IS
large alligators lying dose together, basking ia.the

VISIT FBOM CHIBFS. 80

san on a sand-bank, none of them under 12 feet in
length. Tuanko Seman, the sultan's only son,
qune on board with me, and was saluted with seven
guns, as his father's representative.

Sd February. — ^At noon, the following party
arrived in three prows, viz. the Qrang Kay^
Soonghal, Sultan Ahmed, Sebayu Bestiigif a Batta
ehief of IS kampongs and 2000 ryots under him ;
Sebayu Singaga, son of Rajah Sebayu Singa, chief
of 20 sukus and 2000 ryots ; and Wan Aripula^
8on of Tuanko Wan Ajat, the late younger faro*
tlier of the Sultan Panglima. I saluted them with
Hve guns. They all expressed great admiration of
the vessel, and begged to remain for the night I
made presents to all these chiefs, and g&ve them a
tupply of rice, fish, &c which they oooked in their
0?m boats. Wangka, the sultan's brother, was
also on board ; and during the evening, his q^w,
four Batta slaves, decamped with his boat, arms,
&c. and were not heard of while I remained at
Delli. This poor creature was always meeting
with some misfortune.

' Our evenings were passed pleasantly enough by
the people on board. I gave every encouragement
to mirth, and allowed all on board to make aa
much noise as they pleased, provided they were
happy. The sepoys and Malays amused them-
idves by singing and playing upon their own in-
rtniments ; and one of the sailon^ played upon the

90 PLAN OF PROC££DINOS.

violiiit wbile a Caffiree boy danced for their ainitie*
ment in the Makyan style. The Rigah Sebayu
Singa*8 Mm informed m^ that his fother intended
to come down in two days to see me ; hot my stay
having ahneady been prolonged beyond the time I
intended, and my Langkat pilot, (Che Pahai^)
being on board, I resolved upon trying to take the
brig out, although it was neap tides. The sultan*s
ministeis have been using the most earnest persua-
sions against my journey to Lisngkat; but that
place being almost unknown, and never having
been seen by Europeans, I determined to risit it
at all hasards, and to take the schooner with me^
both to prevent the sultan from feeling annoyance
at my interference respecting the gun, and also b^
cause the water was too shallow for the brig. It
would not be safe, in the disturbed state of the
neighbouring countries, to go in the aooommoda*
tion boat, which, besides, is very leaky.

During the seventeen days that the vessd has
been in the Bulu China river, I have visited all
the principal places in DcUi, have gone up the
Bulu China and Sirdang rivers, and have pene-
trated into the pepper countries in three different
directions ; have seen and conversed with all the
principal chiefii in these districts^ both Malays and
Battas. I have collected all the information I
possibly could from intelligent natives, comparing
it as I had an opportunity, recoUeotiiig the nuudm.

1MBPARTURE FOR LANGKAT. 91

ditt ^ to beUeFe is dangerous, and not to believe
^ is daagenms ; therefore search diligently for the
^tnitfa, lest yoa should come to an unsound deci-
sion r* and I have fully attained all the political
tad oommeraal objects of my mission at every
plaee I visited. I could not help reflecting, like
Yorick, ** what a large volume of adventures may
^ be grasped witlun this little span of life, by him
^ who interests his heart in every thing, and who,
^ having eyes to see what time and chance are
^ perpetually holding out to him as he journeys
^ on his way, misses nothing he can fairly lay his
^ hands on.**!

Ath February. — We weighed early this morn-
ing, and pulled the brig down with the sweeps to
the mouth oi the Kwalah Belawan, where we an-
diored at noon. The Orang Kaya and the other
chiefs accompanied us. The Orang Kaya had never
been so &r before, and the Battas had never seen
the sea. The old gentleman, while standing dose
to the vessel's side, dropped a very handsome betel-
Bnt pounder, called *^ Lipong Pinang,** into the
water, which made him the more anxious to return,
as he could not enjoy his seree without it, his teeth
being much decayed. My draughtsman had jus^

• Phcedrus.

t Sentimental Journey.

92 UNFAVOURABLE WEATHER.

before taken a drawing of it. It was eased with
silver. Mr Stuart carried the brig dear oat in the
evening, and we stood on all night for Lai^;kat.
I gave the Orang Kaya a quantity of garden seeds
and seed potatoes to pUint ; and I think the soil €i
Soonghal is suited for the growth of potatoes.
Yams grow here to an extraordinary siK.

lUA Fdfmary. — ^The winds during the night
were light and variable. The morning was hasy ;
and the stnind old pilot, who had been asleep all
night, and imagined we had been making good
progress, desired us to stand dose into the land, as
the point we saw was Langkat We found our-
selves, howevtf , only opporite Pulo Bartingdnghi.
The wind blew strong against us all day, and we
continued to beat up, but with little saoeess. The
schooner was a long way astern. Anchored in the
evening at six*

6th February.^^At anchor all night; got im-
der weigh at day-light, the wind still strong
against us, with a heavy swdl, and the brig li^
bouring much. Continued beating all day ; and
our pilot comforted me by the aasurance thai it
would blow at least seven days more from Ae same
quarter. We made no progress to-day. Anehored
at sun-set Constant rain.

7th February. — In the early part of this day
we made no progress at alL At three P. M. made
all sail, and at sun-set came off to Ujong Dammar,

SAND-BANKS. LAN6KAT RIVEK. 9^

distance about six miles, in 4 fathoms, Fulo Tappa
Kiida, a small island dose in shore, distant 4 miles.
We suddenly shoaled abreast of this island, from
14 to 4 fathoms. We had a most deUghtful saU
this afternoon.

My Chinese draughtsman sketched the bay from
Ujong Dammar to the westward, and Ujong Tap-
pa Kuda to the southward. Neither of these
points, which are very remarkable and prominent,
are noticed in the charts of the late survey. The
Dutch, many years ago, applied for Ujong Dam-
mar to form a factory upon.

8ih February. — '' And now again 'tis morn^ the orient sun

Prepares once more his radiant course to run ;
On yon tall trees I see his glory rise.
Tinge their green tops, and gain upon the skies/'

€<
€<

The illumination of the sun's rays this morn-
ing rendered visible innumeraUe sand-banks with
which we were surrounded, some of which we
had miraculously escaped. At day-light Mr
Stuart came on board, and proceeded in the large
boat, with Mr Luther, to explore a safe chaimel
into the Langkat river for the brig. The boat
returned at eight, and Mr Stuart had found only
one fathom water in the channd, which was not
sufficient for the brig. Embarked sepoys and
other attendants with provisions for seven days, on
board the schooner ; and at noon stood into tiie

D4 BUDON. PUINC£82».

river with a fiuc breeze. At half-part four an-
chored opporite the small village of Bubon. I im-
mediately landed, and went to visit Rajah Wan
Mend6, sister of the sultan of Delli, and wife of
Fuchoot Udin» of Achinese descent, the diief of
this village. She received me with great courtesy,
and without that embarrassment which might be
expected in her first interview with an European.
Near the landing place is a small monument,
where the chiefs fiither lies interred. It is sur-
rounded by a variety of flowering shrubs, varic^t-
ed laurels, &c. These burial-places are held in
the highest veneration by the natives; and it
would be accounted a violation of the respect due
to them, even to discharge a fowling-piece near
dicm. A number of venerable old trees hide this
village, which is situated on the left bank of the
river. Rajah ^Van Mendd is a comely young
woman, but her ears are disfigured by rings of a
mort prodigious size, and her teeth are pure jet,
which is considered very omamentaL She jne-
sentcd me with some roasted rice, sugar edces, and
palm toddy, in exchange for some presents which
I gave her. Several boats from Timian, loaded
with Dammar batu, were lying there. The inha-
bitants appeared to be mostly Achinese. Rajidi
Wan Meudd informed me it would be necessary
to send notice to Tuanko Wan Soopan, who Uvea
at Seabababat, up the Langkat river, but who was

EAMBLK BOUND THE VILLAGE OP BUB(^. 95

tim at a little iBrtanoei with eight prowB and 100
jBtD. He ii a Inxyther of the Kguruan Muda,
and at war with the Bindahara. Sent my writer
te give him notice accordingly. Lomgkat, like
I)elli» is now involved in war, and the passage of
the river hlodced up m two different places. It is
the sultan of Delli who is the occasion of this, his
policy heing to monopolize the trade. He accords
ingly demands tribute from the rajah of Siack, which
is the ostensible pretence for war. The tide runs
with great velocity in this river.

9M February. — ^The early'^^part of this mcnning
was employed in sailing along the banks of the
river near Bubon, and in rambling amongst the
woods behind the village.

'' Coasting creek and bay,
" Okdet we behold, and into thickets peep,
'* Where cooch the spotted deer ; or raise oar eyes
** To shaggy steeps, on which the careless goat
" Browsed by the side of daahing waterfalls."

Worobwobth's Ezcubbiox.

The jungle was almost impenetrable ; the only
aeoess was by a pathway, which leads to ths
plantations of the arrau tree, so abundant there.
This tree produces black rope, sugar, toddy, and
the pens used by the Malays. Round the village
grow various beautiful flowering trees called as-
sam kumbang, which were covered with Uossoms,
and scented the air with their sweet perfumes.

96 RECEPTION BY THE IJ^NGKAT CHIETS.

The munkiuuig, a fdant whidi ahoott kmg prickly
letvee firom the ground^ and is manufiictuied into
niatt» on which the natives either sit or sleqp^
ftrms a principal article of their export tradep
Laige quantities of these mats are mannfactnrdl
at this plaoe. They are Tery fine, with neat btf •
ders. The kadudu plant, so efficadous in the
cure of bowel ccmiplaints^ grows wild in the jungle.
The bunjar, chumpada, mirbow, dumbang^ and
medong trees, all used for building prows, grow in
plenty here. About breakfiist time^ my writer w-
turned with Tuanko Wan Joho, brother of the
njah of Langkat. This man was formerly married
to the sultan of Delli's daughter. Wan PeraL
Shortly afterwards came on board Tuanko Wan
Sopan, another brother, and Tuanko Pandei,
Kguruan Tindal, brother of the late r^ah. These
chiefs had by no means a reqpectable appearance^
being dirty in their dress. The Malays indeed
generally are very filthy. They seMom or never
waah their bajoos, which, whether originally white
<v black, they wear till they are thread*bare.
Tuanko Wan Joho is much addicted to opinaiit
and had a wild look in consequence, his eyes star-
ing out of his head, and his frame worn down and
emaciated by an excessive use of this drug.

A aarage wiUaflM rtuul Usii ksBfr
Ai of s dwcUtr out of doon ;
In hit whok figure and hia nsiB.
*' A Mirage diaracter waa aeen.**

«<
«

niOGRESS UP THE LANQKAT ElVEH* W

All these chie& expressed their joy at my arrival'
amongst them, and said they hoped I might be
able to settle the differences between the two con*
tending chiefs. They informed me that 30 large
prows loaded with pepper, were lying farther up
the river, ready to sail for Pinang, but were ob*
structcd by the Rajah Bindahara's force. They
said that they considered Langkat and Pinang afi
one, from the long intercourse which has subsisted
between them. It certainly is remarkable, that a
place of such importance in respect to produce, and
the pepper of which has been so much esteemed
in Europe and America, has never been visited
by Europeans. At noon we came up with thd
wai* prows, nine in number. They had each large
planks in front, lashed firmly together, as is the
eustom of the Malays when they go to fights
These would be quite impenetrable to any thing of
less momentum than a six-pounder ball. At four
I left the schooner in the large boat to go up the
river, Che Pahang showing us the way in a small
canoe, which I borrowed from Tuanko Wan Sopan.
loth February. — ^We continued pushing the
boat up against the stream till ten o'clock, When
the channel becoming very narrow^ the night dark;
and the current extremely strong, we anchored, i^h
eddies causing the boat to sheer about so much;
that we expected every moment the grapnel to
part, when we should have been quite l^lpless^

96 DIFFICULTIES IK THE LAKGKAT RIVSR.

The oU nia&t our guide, was in a state of exfiOMve
alann during the whole nigfatt lest some of the ene-
mfM prows should come down to dear the riw,
and lest» mistaking us in the dark» thejr mig^t
fiirthwith commence an attadc. Bat what he
dieaded most was their dangerous tactics of firing
froBd bdiind the trees, mbkik is thdr moat commnn
mode of waifiure. The thickets on eadi ode woe
almost impenetraUe, and we must ham been de»
stroyed by any siich covert attadL The sepoya
wwe on the alert, however, and we wcve prepared
to give them a warm reception.

llM FAruary. — ^We were employed daring
iheirfide day struggling against the carrent, tyii^
e small mf% to the trees and boshei^ and palKng
op the boat. *Om ascent was very tedious and diC»
fieult In some places we remained ten minates
q^te stationary, the people exerting aU tibdr
atmgth in vain to pull or to push ftcwaid the
boat against the current, whidi runs with inrramnl
violence a fifesh water stream, being beyond the
asadi of the tides. We made good prpgrssi^ howw
ever, afterwards, by means of the reeds on the sides
ef the river, which we hud hdd o£ The Makys
spend ten days and a fortnight sometimeB» in get»
tingiqp in the cargo boats to Kampong Kapab
Sungci, where the king resides. The depth of
water b generally 8, t, and 4 fiithoms^ so that the
gabs am diilcolt to use. The Mahys, mther than

AltBIVAL AT TEBUSSAN. W

di ii the ftoiiUe of dearing the river of tieei^ and'
vatdog M mall pathway along the edges of the*
haiaka^ to diag their boats up^ will spend days and
tifjbtM poshing their prows up, and sometimes get
into the water to push a tree aside^ but neirer re-
iMve it enturiy. 1 was obHged to shift fimr dil^
ftnnt timei^ first fiofn the brig into the sdiooner#»
Aen from the sdmmer into the large boat, which
eould only pfoeeed about twenty miles finther^ and
tiicn into a small sampan^ widi four lascars^ tww
aepoys, and my writer, exposed to the soordui^
son an day^ and the whole party exhausted with
the fiolence of their exertions.

Ai we eame in s^ht of the Tillage of Tertssan^^
where the Bi^ Bindahara (who was at war mth
the chiefr we left yesterday) resides, we hoisted si
pieee of white doth on a long pole, as an emblem
ef peaee. A party of 60 or 70 men, armed with
bfamderimsses, muskets, spears, and swords, eamcf
soddenly upon us from bdiind the trees, about 800
yasdi bdow the riUage, taking us frr the enemy^
sad rasring a dreadful shout We were now hs
si|^ of the ftrtifications, eig^t in number^ lAiA
small square kubus, formed of laige tnmhs of'
eofcted with men and matches, aH ready ter
in upsBL us, with the guns mounted upon them^
I laae iqp, and taking a larger white straw hat» and
adarik coloured jacket, whidi I wore frr the pm^
pose ef flsaking my white or ptiqfie

100 A SPARTAN.

more oonspicuous, made a low bow to the party.
They immediately, with one accord, h^an caper-
ing and dancing, threw their arms across their
shoulders, and exclaimed, ** Tis a white man, welL**
They then approached the boat with signs of great
joy i and the Rajah Bindahara's brothers, Badar
Udin Saw and Deo Sadan, who were the leaders
of the party, and dressed in scarlet jackets, came
and conducted me to the village, which appeared
very populous, but situated on low swampy gnmndt
the river running under some of the houses. We
were hospitably received, but the two chie& ob-
jected to my visit to the rajah, and proposed
that I should remain three days, until a reference
could be made to the sultan of Delli, who had
given strict orders to secure the passage of the
river, and, as they emphatically expressed it, ^ not
'* even to allow a leaf to pass without notice.*
One of the sultan's wives, sister of the Bindahaia,
resides here with her mother; and I went and
paid my respects to them. This old lady is quite
a Spartan ; and upon ui^g pacific measures, and
expressing my anxiety to see peace restored, ** No^
no,** said she, ** we must conquer or die. My
son must be king of this country. His firther
was the former chie( and my son must, and
^ shall contend for his rights." The animation
and apparent determination of this old lady i
pressed me forcibly.

€9

BETURN FROM TERUSSAN. 101

There being but little temptation to prolong my
stay, and as I could not ascend to see the Kcguruaa
Muda, we returned down the river to the accom-
modation boat, which had made considerable pro*
gress during our absence. The sinuosity of the
river here was remarkable, the windings being
very numerous. Some of the necks of land were
not more than 50 or 60 yards across, while the dis-
tance by the river was one and two miles. We
endeavoured to get under weigh, but the grapnel
was entangled in a large tree three fathoms under
water. The sepoys and crew dived repeatedly
during two hours, till darkness put a stop to our
labours. This was the fourth time during the day
that the grapnel hooked the trees, and that the
people were obliged to dive and dear it.

12th February. — This morning before daylight,
having got out ropes, and pulled the boat ahead,
two sepoys, expert divers, succeeded, after many at-
tempts, in clearing the anchor, and we proceeded
down the river. The current was dangerously rar
pid ; and it required the most incessant attention
and labour to keep the boat from striking the
trees, which lay across in some places, leaving the
channel very narrow and intricate* Our frail
bark, had it been driven against these trees, would
have been inevitably dashed to pieces. The fog
was so dense at seven o'clock, that we could scarce-
ly see 5ft yards before us. I may here mention a

lOB 0LBRTIONS OF THE UPOTB.

tmit h^Uy creditable to the iepoy% who made
iudi exertioiis to mve tbe andior. I bad pnoniia!-
ed a reward to anyone who shoald aneoeed in
dearing it ; and the crew and aepoya tied with
each other in the difficult task of diving finr it in
dnee fiitboma water, the corrent nmning like a
waterfidL The aepoys, however, when I offioed
diem tbe piomiaed reward, taid, ^ No^ ar; we can-
^ not accept of any remuneration for this aenrice :
^ it ia our duty to aasiBt in difficulty, and we ttd
^hqipy in dmng any thing to pleaae you.'*
They were of the moat resolute duuraeter, and ao
steady, that I am penuaded they would have M-
lowed me through flre^ had it been necessary.
They reflect honour on the distingniAed corps to
which they belong ; and so bononrafak are they»
that they value a recommendation to didr atteen
pbove any other reward. So long as soldien are
actuated by such findings, any thing may be trust-
ed to their fidelity or courage. We reached the
aehooner at eight o'dods. Tuanko Wan Scpan
came on board, and I mentioned the dgection tliat
ensted to my going up the river. He cAnd me
a boat; but being indi^Msed, from cxposoDS to the
son the whole of the preeeding day, and fifom want
of rest ton two nights, I sent my writer and Mr
9tuart by another channd^ frith the letter from
^le governor*
WUb remaining here^ our people oa^glil lib

BICKFTION OF irUITOBflL lOS

qpttntitiai of wery large prswns, by stoj^ing
UpthrrtrtntH dumnels on the side of theriyer, mhm
it ivat Uf^ vtter, with hamboot. When the tide
ebbed, thej woe fimnd in ^enty. We aa^^
dm m quantity of the duri fiih, die ahaip point-
ed ins ef which inflict a severe and dan^arans

184h February.'— I had many visifam dnrii^
the day, and was pleased to observe that they c9L-
fiesBsd their oonfidence by coming on board mi-
annedt not wearing even their creeses, which the
inhabitattts of the other places we visited never
kid aaid^ even for a minute. The chiefe never
move without numerous attendants, a Malay be-
ing leqpeeted according to the retinue whidi be
can afford to maintain. He is accounted rich
when he has 1000 or 8000 dollars.

14ik JF^ebruary. — My anxiety respecting Mr
Stuart, whom I dispatched three days ago to the
iiyab, was relieved this morning by the arrival of
mm of the king's messengers, who came during
tbe ni|^ and brought me intelligenoe that the
si|ab was preparing to descend the river to-day,
with some of his prindpal chieft, and 40 or 50 at-
tsndants, and that he had detained the captam to
eeesnpany him. I had prepared a boat, wfaisb
joat etaiting, to look after him.

lUk Pebmary. — Mr Stuart returned to tbe
tbia evening, having been ehmil ftvr

104 raUBBMT FOKE8IOHT OF THB MAIATB.

days. Thermjah had made pieparatkmt ftr hia
journey ; but one of his children bebg taken sud-
denly ill^ Mr Stuart thought it pnqper not to wait
longer* The Kejuruan Muda, however, sent down
two eonfidential pec^le, Syed Akhil and Naeoda
8ania» with 50 men in three boats. Mr Stuart
was well reoeived, and the rajah was much gratifi-
ed with the letter fiom the honooraUe the gorer-
nor. The houses are large and commodious ; and
Mr Stuart estimates the number at Kampong
Kapala Sungei at 400. The banks here are hig^ ;
and aluve Terussan, where the river brandies off
to the right and left, it becomes deep and wide.
The inhabitants appeared to be very numerous^
and at least 200 people go down daily from tho
Tillage to the paddy -fields, principally women.
They are prudently collecting aH the paddy before
ifaey commence active hostilities, and are at pre-
sent entirely on the defensive. They aflfect to
deqpise the force at Terussan, and say, that iriien
the paddy is all stored, and their granaries filled,
they will soon expel the hostile fotee. There
ja m large quantity of pepper in the town, which
Mr Stuart, firom personal observatian, estimated at
S50 coyan% all the receptacles under the houses
being fulL Many boats were also lying kaded»
but were prevented by the enemy fimn passing
•down. From the quantity of pepper exported
ilwing the hist two yean, andthi

ASmiVAL OF M£SS£N6£SS FSOM THE KINO. IM

tilks ktelj planted, I am almost oertain 1 do not
Ofaiate the produce of Langkat, Delli, Bnlu
duaa, and Sbrdang, at a hundred thousand peeuls
HI a few yean, if there is the same encouragement
la coltivation that there has lately been, and the
mAAe maintains its price in the markets of £uropa
aad China.

The ngah's two agents came on board late at
Bight, and brooght me a letter from the rajahs weU
ooming my arrival, and begging me to ascend by
the way of Batang Sarangan, which is a small and
difficult ehannd, navigable for canoes only of the
tnalleit siae. Fearing, however, that I might not
comply with his invitation, he sent me an engage^
ment respecting the duties and trade of the ooun^
try, which manifests the anxious desire whidi pre^
vails on his part to cultivate a closer connection
•rith Pinang« and to encourage the resort of traders
to his dominions, the duties being exceedingly mo-
dilate, and every facility being allowed for the dis*
foml of goods and the purchase of pepper. As I
^ad promised Badar Udin Saw that I would not
panomdly wait upon the king without his consent^
aa I had explained every thing to the rajah's two
brothers and his agents, and my provisicms weve
^oqpended, I informed them I should descend the
nver to-m(»row; and they promised to be with
me at day-light, to accompany me to the fari^ havr
3Bf detained me in conversation till midnij^ty

106 BIE STUART SURPEI8£D BY THE ENEMY.

Mr Stuart was surprised by a pirty of fear
armed men in the woods, while passing tfaroogii a
very narrow channeL They levelled their pieces
at him. He, however, calmly spoke to thm :<-^
"^ What," said he, "^ fire at a white man r Od
which they flung their pieces acnMs their shooldcn^
and passed on. Mr Stuart, however, waa well pro-
vided with arms in the boat, and was prepared to
give them a warm reception, which proved periiapa
a more powerful argument for their padfie con-
duct, than their respect for a white face.

Had this country not been in a state of internal
commotion, I should certainly have penetrated into
the interior, and examined particularly the great
lake, the extent and boundaries of which remain
unknown. I have, however, completely satisfied
myself both of its situation and extent, by the
concurrent accounts of many natives who had seen
it, and some of whom had resided on its banks*
There was a greater concurrence in their descrip-
tion than I usually met with on some other points
of inquiry. That the Battas are much moro no>
merous on this side of the island, and that the
countries I have visited are much more produeliro
and populous than was generally supposedt wifl
fully appear by a reference to the history and d^
Bcription I have compiled.

16th February.— J purchased two small boirts
at Langkat, to supply the place of the cmm* I

BSPAETU&E. ACCIDENT. 107

JUL kfty wUeh I found very useful in aaoendii^
titm nwen. One of tfaem was eompletdy equipped
fm vtTt bsvivg two small brass swivds mounted
mi the bow, and a strong breast-w<»k. They
took the swivds out, and the boat cost roe 15 dol*
Ian. We dr op p ed down eariy this morning to
Bebon, anchoring in the narrow ehannd outside
at soeo. Tnaako Wan J<du>, Wan Sopan, and
the ngah*s agents, with an immense letinuet came
loff with the intention of going on board the Jessy t
bat wind and tide being strong against us, they
letumcd* Sainted them with five guns on thebr
departme frosn the schooner, and sent a variety of
presents to the rajah.

The wind continued strong against us all day;
and towards e?ening, while I was enjoying a little
aonnd rest, which I had not been able to do for seve-
ral nights, the captain, thinking he could carry the
adiooner out, attempted to make his way through
the narrow channel I was aroused from my couch
by the vicdent beating of the vessel on a sand-bank,
idicte ^e continued striking very hard. It was
now qnUe dark, the tide ebbing &st, the wind
iif^ and breakers all around us, and the schooner
Ht every pitch threatening to go to pieces. The
■Mnent was critical The vessel was fortunately
nearly fiill of stone ballast, which being all thrown
eeerboard, eased her greatly, so that she did net
Imt With such yiolence; but the sight of the wfaitp

106 l>X>&TUNAT£ £SCAPC

fiMunmg breakers around us was truly terrific^
threateniug every now and then to overwhelm us;
while occasional peals of thunder, and yivid flashes
of lightning, added to the horrors of the night, the
whde making an impression not easily to be ef-
tuceA. The gusts of wind became more and more
violent, and I thought it was time to prepare the
boati, and to seek safirty in the brig with a party
of the people, who only added to the confunon on
board. The sepoys and their accoutrements were
accordingly moved forthwith into the accommoda-
tion boat, which was fortunately astern, but was
rolling so violently, and shipping so much water,
that this duty was one of great risk. The sdMxm-
er's boat indeed swamped in returning from the
boat astern ; but being fiistened with a line to the
schooner, was not entirely lost The two small
Malay canoes were half full of water. In these
two ricketty boats I embarked the aepoys, making
in all fourteen on board, leaving the large boat to
save the remainder of the crew of the schooner, and
the accoutrements of the sepoys, in case the vessel
dumld bilge. We were only provided with foot
small oars for the large boat, and were obliged to
tow the smaller one full of people. I had only
two sailcnrs with me : with them we poUed through
the white curling waves, which threatened every
moment to engulph us in a watery grave. We
soon, however, got into deep water, aiid readied the

REFLECTIONS. 100

brig^ wlik^ had h<risted lights upon hearing the
three guns of distress which we fired, after hard
extrticms for three hours, during which time I
pdled one of the oars, only one of the party of se-
poys being expert in this duty. The schooner
beii^ mudi lightened, in consequence of every thing
being thrown overboard, and by the removal also
of so many people ; and the tide flowing about
midnight, the vessel was rescued from her perilous
ntuation, and brought alongside the brig. It has
been remarked by a traveller, in speaking of a
storm at sea, ** If we look around the miseraUe
^ gnmp that surrounds us, no eye beams comfcnrt,
^ no tongue speaks consolation ; and whai we
^ throw our imagination beyond, to the death-like
^ darkness, the howling blast, the raging and mer-
^ ciless element, soon to be our horrid habitation,
** surely, surely, it is the most terrible of deaths."
The misery of the group indeed which surrounded
me can hardly be imagined, and we had too much
canse for serious alarm.

17th February. — ^This was Sunday, and the
Sim rose with unclouded majesty. The morning
was calm and serene ; and the surrounding stillness
emblematical of this day of rest, formed a pleasing
contrast to the commotions of last night

" Now oeai'd the thmider's noiae, the stonn was o'er,
^ And ereiy blasteriog wind forgot to roar,
" Wlien tlie fair morning from her radiant aeat^
" Appeared with rosy front and golden feet.**

TAaao.

UO ARRIVAL AT TU£ D£LIJ RIVER.

On briogiiig the aoocmuDodBtion bott alongside^ '
tue fimnd that a few of the aepoys* aoeoatremcnti
imre lott, and that the greater part of their am-
munitioii was damaged by the water. A &w
dothei^ kc belonging to me had been thioim over-
boardt and aome other artklet of trilluig valne;.
The aehoooer did not leak so mnch as waa opeeU
edi bat as it had no ballast, it eonld not aceom^
pan J me to the westward The stem of die ae-
eommodation boat was nearly separated in two^
and A» waa altogether in a most dangevoM state:
die stem of the piow also was broken. Undier all
these ciicumstanceSf and erasidering the ignoranee
of our pilotp who eould not carry na into die Ti*
mian river, off which there are several dangeront
sand-banks; the wind blowing also rig^ against ns^
and the country being, as I was infonnedt involved
in war ; and the place not being of mnch import*
anee in a commercial view, and aa I had gained
every necessary infiMrmation respecting it from se-
veral respectable inhaUtanti, whom I met at Bii«
ben, I thought it advisaUe to retom immediataljr
to DellL Made all sail according, and a strsog
breeae carri^ us down opposite iJie Ddli river^
where we anchored at four in the aftemoosL Lefk
the brig at five, and pulling all nighl^ we readmd
the mouth of the fresh water stream at three
o'clock. We got amongst the sands about inid«
ni^t, and were rather in a perilous sitaataon agaia^

MEETING WITH THE GREAT BATTA CHIEF. Ill

. ISth Fehruary. — I reached Kampong Ilir at
seven o'clock, and was happy to find the sultan
and Rajah Sebaya Singa both there, which saved
me much trouble in going up to Kota Jawa. It
was fortunate that I arrived just at that moment,
as they were setting out on their return. At.
nine I went to wait on the sultan, and met the
Rajah Sebaya Singa, Bindahara of Langkat, £c.
The principal point of discussion related to the
introduction of the currency : other important ob-
jects were attained, which the sultan had been con-
sidering during my absence. The rajah of the
Battas begged me to accompany him to his resi-
dence on the hills, and said he was quite ashamed
he had no buffaloes or horses to present to me*
He said he was anxious that the sepoys should go
through their exercise before his vdves, and
thought it would have been no unreasonable
stretch of politeness in me to accompany him on a
four days* journey for that purpose.

Boats being prepared, the sultan, the Rajah
Sebaya Singa, Rajah Bindahara of Langkat,
Rajab Muda, and many of the principal chieft,
with an immense retinue of Malays and Battas in
five or six boats, accompanied me down the river,
with the intention of visiting the brig, which was>
lying about six miles outside the river ; but the
wind blowing strong up the river, and the tide
against us, they bqgged me to excuse them finr

i±'?x

lis RAJAH S£BAYA SINGA.

that cUy, retuniiiig to DeUi, and prcnnimig to
oome off next morniDg at day-light

The Rajah Sebaya Singa is a hale, rtoiit» dark
man, about ffO yean of age, and hat lost all hit
front teeth. On speaking of this sub|eett I hap-
pened to mention that our dentists could fix
others : he almost started from his seat with joy»
and said he would come to Pinang without dcjay^
and get his renewed. Upon explaining that there
were no professional dentists there, he said, ** If
^ you will desire one to oome from Bengal, I will
^ give him a thousand measures of pepper (equal
*^ to 300 dollars), for his trouble in making me
^ half a doien teeth.'* He is apparently a quiet
inoffensive man, and has great influence with the
Batta cultivators.

19M February. — Left the Kwabh Bekwan at
day-light this morning, and remained at anchor
till noon, in expectation of seeing the chiefii ofl^
according to promise yesterday, but it blowing
fresh, they did not come off. The wind beii^ fi^
vourable, I made all sail for Batubara. Mr Stuart
came off with five casks of water finr the vessd, in
a very small boat, notwithstanding a heavy sea.
This was a great assistance, as we were rather short
of water. I wrote by him to the dnA, iHP^logia»
ing for my departure^ and sent some presents to the
Rajah Sebaya Singa. Run along the coast about
95 miles, and anchored in 9 fiitboms, four miles

TOUrABM BATUBARA. ARRIVAL. US

fiioi Aoie^ at seten o'clock. We pMsed over a
Imk <tf 5 firthomt, hard sand, suddenly shoaling
tnm 9 to ff fiitboms, which I supposed to be the
Vaida BmT allnded to by Horsburgh, though not
ttolioed in Uentenant Rose's chart. Some of the
principal land-marks are omitted.

Mth Febniary. — Steering for Batubara, at
ffe F. M., andiored nearly opposite the river, in
S| fiithoms, soft mud ; distance off shore S miles^
in pieeiiely the same bearings as the Honourable
Company's cmiser Nautilus anchored. Saw a great
many prows in the course of the day» coasting alkmg
the shore. Passed through a very intricate diannd
between two dangerous sand-banks, in going up
opposite Tanjong Mati, very correctly laid down
in the chart of Lieutenant Rose, and described in
his diieetionsL In the evening two boats fiill of
people came off, mx or seven of whom were known
te me at Pinang. They had heard of my intended
triiit; and the moment they observed the vessel
esmiag nmnd the point, they came off to welcome
my amvaL The inhabitants of this place are re-
psesented by Mr Horsburgh as the most perfidiom
met in these seas. They may have been so per-
Inpa in Imner years ; but a more civilised, intelB-
gnt, and industrious race of Malays I have never
than the present inhabitants of Batubara. I
inclined to think that the boats hfi^mpng to

114 JlECKPTKiN DY SllADUNDAU.

whidi were cut off in the neighbourhood for-
merly, were captured by some lurking private
prows which come from the eastward, and are as
great a terror to the Batubara people, as they are
to the inoffensive traders navigating these sea&
When it became dark, we observed a great light
far back in the sliore, like a large fire, whidi the
natives told us appeared aftar dry weather, like an
ignis fatuus.

Slit February. — Went ashore early to Kam-
pong Boga, and w*as received by the sfaahiuidar of
Delli (Ahmud), whose family principany resideB
here^ and the turaun^ng, with the greatest atten-
tion, in a very neat bungalow, built in the Euro-
pean style. I was saluted with five guns on en-
tering the court-yard. I also waited upon Sri
Maharaja I^la, the nephew of the Riyah Binda-
hara, who received me with the utmost cordi-
ality. I afterwards went up to a small village
eaHed Pematang, seven reaches up the river, to
pay my respects to Datu Samoangsa, one of the
principal chiefs. The Bindahara, who is the head
man of the place, was at Assahan. This is the
largest and most populous place I have yet visited
The houses are hu^e, and subatantially built In
the evening we saw swarms of wild pigs on the
sides of the river ; and the naick shot a guana about
fimr feet long, with a single balU 9t the distance of

MUSSULMAN PR£JUDIC£8. 11£

100 yaidfl. Forgetting, however, his Mussulmaa
piqadioes f<Nr a moment, I desired him to fire at
some fine huge plump hogs, which I observed on
the side of the river. He, with characteristic 8&«
poy obedience, presented his piece, but purposely
ddayed pulling the trigger, until the animals re*
timed into die thicket, ashamed on the one hand
to fire and miss, and still more to deviate firom.
bit religious prejudices. I observed an evident
^taruggle between his sense of duty and his reli*
gious principles, and was sorry I had put them to
the test My clerk seized the rifle, but I did not
see any of the pigs on my table. The pigeons and
ether Inrds swarmed upon the trees, and fish were
idiundant and cheap. Poultry also, and goats^
were plentiful and reasonable.

HidFdfruary. — Went to the Bindahara's by
ajqpointment, in expectation of meeting all the
diiefii, who had been summoned by Sri Maharaja
lida to meet me ; but this being Friday, the Mus-
sulman Sunday, they did not come down. They
however sent messages to prepare us for their arri-
val next day. Employed collecting and purchas-
ing all the difierent sorts of cloths, of wluch there
is an infinite variety. They mimufiicture silk and
eoiton doths, the former principally beautiful tar«
tan patterns, and some splendidly wrought with
gold thread. These manufactures ocmsume a large
quantity of raw silk. I purchased one of the

116 COMFORTABLE ACCOMMODATION.

loomfly with a beautiful tartan moDg balf finiilied
in it My draughtsman made a ocnrrect drawing
of all their spinning and weaving apparatoib tt>d
other objects of interest or novelty. Although
they manufaeture such a variety of doths, they
prefer wearing our European chintacs, and the
ooarse coast and Bengal cloths, prindpany on ae-
count of their comparative cheapness.

In the evening, a very lai^ concoune of men,
women, and children assembled, and were enter*
tained by my musicians and dancers, while I was em-
ployed conversing with the assembled diieft. Their
confidence in me appeared to be unbounded, owing
principally to a slight previous acquaintance which
I had with the shabundar, who is active and inteU
ligent, and is a shrewd clever merdiant. He has
travelled a good deal, having visited Batavia and
all the principal settlements to the eastward. He
has a perfect knowledge of the trade, and is wdl
acquainted with the manners and customs of Euro*
peans. His house is well furnished with tables,
chairs, &c. ; and he gave me an elegant bed, with
splendid grid-end jnllows, to sleep on ; and here I
enjoyed a iew nights of the only sound rest during
my voyage. A profiinon of sweetmeats and other
dainties weie served up to me constantly ; and hia
attentions revived in my mind the pleaang lemeai*
brance of that old Scotch hospitiility to which I
was accustomed in my boyish days^ tmang my

REFBACTO&Y CHIEF, AND CUEIOUS LAW. 117

tive hills. It more resembled those dreams of my
youth, than any thing I have sinoe met with in
the world.

The Batubara people appear to be a happy» con-
tented, inoflfensive race, every countenance smiling,
and every house open to the reception of strangers.
The women have not that odious custom of mak-
ing large holes in their ^ars, as at Delli and Lang-
kat They are a fiur race, and some are really
handsome. They do not disfigure their mouths
by chewing betel. Many of the young men ab-
stain from the use of seree altogether.

A chief in the interior who had lately put a
man to death, would not pay the usual fine of 444
dollars and 44 pice ; and the shabundar and the
other chie& blocked up the smdl river leading to
his village, with half a dozen prows. A skirmish
was expected, as it was understood to be the
dii^s intention to leave the country. The sha-
bundar owns a great many prows, and carries on a
more extensive trade in pepper from Delli, than
any other person. He is in good credit with the
Chinese and other merchants of Pinang, who mak^
him large advances.

This was the paddy season. Batubara does no|;
grow enough, however, for the consumption of the
country. They used to import largely from Quer
da, but now derive their suppUes of grain princip
pally firom the Fedir coast and Assahan.

118 MEETINO AT THE BINDAHARA*8.

iSd February. — ^A great assemblage of the tnr
habitants from the interior surrounded the sha-
bundar's house this moniing, and the house and
court-yard were literally crammed with well dress-
ed people. Of women there was an immense mul-
titude, the wives and daughters of the principal
diieft, most superbly dressed in their gold thread
sarongs and salindimgs. The four datus also ar-
rived with a large retinue ; and we all proceeded
to the Bindahara*s house, where I was again sa-
luted with seven guns. I took an escort of IS
soldiers with me, my boat's crew in scariet pre-
ceding me, and a salute was fired with mus-
ketry. The letter from the honourable the gover-
nor was then read aloud in the presence of at least
ffOO people, seated in a long verandah, and around
the Bin(lahara*s house. Another salute was then
fired, in compliment to the letter. They were all
much pleased with the letter, and said they were
rejoiced to receive a letter for the first time firnn
so respected a chief as the governor of I^nang.
The high estimation indeed in which the head of
the government of Pinang is held by all the chiefs
of the countries I visited, is a sure guarantee for the
hospitable reception of any agent who may be sent
to these hitherto unfrequented countries ; but my
own previous acquaintance also with many of the
prindpal traders from this place and the other
ports along the coast, obtained me a cordial wel*

DISCU88ION WITH THE CHIEFS. 110

oomc wherever I went, anil was the means also of .
securing, I trust, roost important advantages lo ;
the mercantile interests of Pinang. ^ :

In the afternoon, the sepoys went dirough their*
exercise for the gratiflcation of an immense mtilti- *
tttde who had come down the river, first at Kam- *
pong Boga, and then at Kampong. The sepoys ;
always showed an alacrity to gratify these people^ i
and entered into the amusement with spirit. The -
surprising rapidity with which they primed and
loaded, and their double quick time motions in;
going through the evolutions of a running figfat» :
concealing themselves behind the cocoa-nut treeSp .
and agiun filing in by the sound of the whist^
gave unfeigned astonishment and delight to the -
Malays.

84/A Fehniary. — ^I again accompanied the sha- .
bundar and tumungong to the Biudahara's house,
where the cliiefs of the four Sulcus had engaged to
meet me, to conclude our consultation upon the
objects of the mission. Every thing was settled
to my satisfaction ; and after partaking of a varie*
ty of good things which were prepared for me, I .
took my leave of the four datus. On my return, •
I found the boat almost sinking with the load of
cocoa-nuts, poultry, goats, &c. which the datus had
cidi brought down and put into it. I purchaaed
a fiew more very elegant silk cloths. Dispatched
the boat in the afternoon to the mouth of the river^ .

ISO SICKME88 OF THE CR£W.

which being left dry at each ebb of the tide, be^
comes a bed of mud, exhaling death and diaeaie.
It was from this fatal source that my peofde eon-
tncted the fever with which they were aeiied.
To the excessive indulgence in fruit, particolaily
plantains, fever may also he ascribed ; bat probably
it was chiefly produced by sleepnig in the beat of the
day, after eating a hearty fareakfitft ; an indulgeoeo
fimn which it is impossible to debar the natives,
unless they have some active employment The
bad quality of the water too^ which is exeeedingiy
scarce, and quite brackish, may be assigned as
another cause. In order to procure this necessary
article, holes arc dug in the sand, and the dirty
water taken out. I1ie holes are then filled up,
until a fresh supply is collected, which is again
drawn off. Several of my people were seised with
severe bowel complaints.

In the evening, my musicians again entertained
a large concourse with a nautch. The Malay laa-
cars sung songs, and played upon the musical instru-
ments borrowed for the occasion. The Caffiee boy
danced fandangoes. Hie Chineae draughtsman
played Chinese tunes on the violin ; the Siamese
danced and sung in their own style, and the sepoys
in theirs. They all performed in turns, and it wis^
even to myself, not an unentertaining speetade.
The ceremonies took place in the court-yard, where
mats were spread.

89ABUNDAR'8 PAETIAUTY FOE THS BIBLE. ISl

My host, ilie diftlmiidar, was an early riaer^ aiid«
udike nott of his countrymen, never reclined doiw
isf the day, but was always usefully employed in le*
oeifing eommanders of vessels, who were constantly
aniviog^ and in arranging his papers and aooountat
He waa very fmid of reading the Bibk^ which was
given to him by th^ Reverend Mr Hutchings some
yeaii i^fo^andwl^ 1^ ^ the appearance of having
hecn wdl used* In compliment to me, he brought
it oat» and read some passages, which I expUuned to
tink I administered some medicine to the Am>^
bondar^a laother, and she recovered astonishingly
during the fisw days I remained there. The moat
common complaints are headaches^ pains in the
arms and \eg^ and fevers. I found none of the
nativea here had any prejudices against European
medicine ; on the contrary, I had more applications
than it was in my power to comply with.

I obtained considerable information from the
shabundar and tumungong, relative to the horrid
practiee of cannibalism, which exists in the interior
of Batpbara. The Battas here are a partiailarly
ferocious race, and cannot be persuaded to give
their attention to agriculture, or the quiet pursuita
of commerce^ being constantly engaged in warfine
with each other. Both the tumungong and die
Sri liahanya had lived a long time in tlie Batta
eoontiy^ and were married, one to the daughter of
the n^ of Seantar» the other to the daughter of

1S2 QUIT BATi;iSAU\.

the Rajah Tanah Jawa, two principal cannibal
chiefs. A stout ferocious looking fcUow, with
inusailar Imndy Iq^ came in as I was convening
on the 8ul)ji*ct of cannibalism, and was pointed out
to me as a celebrated marksman and man-eater.
He had a most detennined look, and my draughts-
man took a remarkably striking likeness of him.
I made prticular inquiries of him, and be gave
me the following horrid details of cannibalism.
He said that young men were soft, and their flesh
water}', llie most agreeable and ddicate citing
was that of a man whose hair had bqpm to turn

gwy-

23th February. — I slept on boaid the bofet last
night at the mouth of the river, and when the
moon rose at three o'cloi*k, we ]ndlcd oH* to the brig.
Soon after day-li^lit, the tunmngong, shabundar,
and Maharaja Lela, came on Ixurd to bid us fare-
well, and see the vessel. The two former were
saluted witli five guns, the other witli six. I real-
ly felt rq;rct at (Kirting with these worthy people,
who hail shown me so much attention. At ten
A. M. we weighed for Assahan. Cbc Ismad, an in-
habitaut of I'inang, and owner of three prows
wUch were lying at Assahan, taking in cargoes,
aooompanied mc as pilot, the other being sick^ ud
quite UKoless in every respect. I paid the shahin^
dar 'Mo dollars, being the amount which he Imd
advanced mc on shore for the purcbaic of ckiths^

ARRIVAL AT ASSAHAK. 19S

TQl I arrived, no coin but dollars were current
there, and these only of the large bust ; but I paid
him now, at his own desire, in small dollars, sicca
rupees, sukus, and talis, the Pinang currency;
being a proof of their good intentions. The trad<-
ing part of the community were much gratified by
this change in the currency, which will afford them
wonderful facilities, compared to what they en-
joyed.

26th February. — Stood up during the night,
and found ourselves in the morning opposite Silau
river, Assahan river also in sight. This part of
the coast, between Batubara and Assahan, is a
blank in the chart, but there are five or six con-
siderable rivers between those two places, on
the banks of which numbers of inhabitants are
settled. We coasted along within three miles of
the shore, in 7 fathoms, gradually decreasing as
we approached Assahan river, to 6, 5, 4, and 3,
till within two miles of the mouth of the river.
We tacked in 3 fathoms, and run out into 3|,
when we anchored.

27th February. — Prepared for a three days'
trip, and entered the Assahan river with the accom-
modation boat, and a party of 26, at nine o'clock.
The moving and shifting into the boat is extreme-
ly irksome, and the waste of provisions very great
We arrived at Kampong Balei at two p. m. This
is indeed a miserable collection of huts, situated on

194 MESTINO WITH THE CHIEF.

s point where theie is • biftircation of the xifer.
mie ground is low and swampy, and always over-
flowed by the high tides, so that there is no possi-
bility of walking about The pathways which lead
from one house to the other, are made of q^ ae*
bongs hud upon posts, on wliich there is a risk of
breaking one's legs at every step. The place mm
abandoned at one time by the inhabitants, who pna*
fer residing higher up the river, where the gioand
b elevated, and their plantations are sitnated.
When the rajah of Siack invaded the ooanliyt
however, a few years ago, he ordered it to be io»
occupied, to prevent the pirates fitim remaining in
the river, and to give protection to tndeia. The
population consists of Malays, Batta slaves, and a
few wretched sickly looking Chinese, whose sob
occupation is the preparing and vending chandoo
(opium), and gambling.

The Bindahara of Batubara was lying in a prow
dose to where we anchored. I went on board, and
he received me with marked attention. He is an
old man, with a large diseased nose, and iwailji
bUnd. Unlike his nephews and the chieft at Ba»
tubara, who wero splendidly attired in gold doths
and other neat dresses, he was shablnly habited.
He told me he had come to Assahan to settle aome
little differences between the king and the Bigak
Muda. He assured me of his best endeavours to
promote a more extensive oommensial intcnoone

ALLIGATORS TERY NUMEROUS. ISS

uMb Finaag, and approved entiiely of ^ pm*
ca e toga of the diieft during his absenoe, in their
BigotistioM with me. Soon after returning to my
boat^ the thabondar of Kampong Balei^ and the
hnidier of the Bindahara, came on board, and in*-
fa nn e d me that the rajah of Assahan was still np
tfie coontry, in the Batta kingdom, engaged ia
hostilities with some chiefs there, and that the Ra-
jah Mnda and Bindahara were iqp the other river,
ftnr or ive days* journey. They oflfered me acoom-
modatimi in a small hovel on Aore, into which I
moved, being preferable to the confined boat

The alligators are very numerous here, and par-
tienlaxly bold. Hundreds of people have lost thdr
lives by these devouring animals. About an hour
after we andiored, a man was pulled out of a low
eaaoe near us^ and devoured in a moment ; and a
few days befn^, one of the crew belonging to Che
Ismad, my pilot's boat, a powerful, stout, young
man, who was sitting at the stem of the boat,
steering with a paddle, was suatdied off They
nht their heads a foot or two out of the water»
and pid the people out of the boats. About •
Booth ago» a boat with three horses and six goats^
wfaioh the Rajah Muda was sending down the ri-
v«r» to be emlMrked on board a large psow goingto
Pinangy was attad^ed by a whole swarm of theae
ferseioas creatures, whidi sunmmded the boat en
aB adss. Being low and ridcetty, ^ horses took

I^ KKMAUKABLE ALLIGATOR.

fright, and began to kick, on ^hich the boat up-
set Another small boat in company instantly
saved the three or four Malays who were in tlie
boat ; but the horses and goats were devonred in
an instant. Near the mouth of the river, where
there is a fishing-house, there is an alligator of m
most prodigious size, his back, when a little out of
the water, resembling a lai^e rock. He remains
constantly there, and is regularly fed upon the
head and entrails of the large pari, or skate fish,
which are caught there. I saw him, and the Ma-
lays called him to his meal. He appeared fuD
twenty feet long. Being in rather a small boat at
the time, I wished to make all haste away ; bat
the Malays assured me he was quite harmlessy so
much so, that his feeders pat his head with thdr
hands ; a dangerous amusement certainly, but shoiv-
ing the wonderful tameness and sagacity of the
creature, naturally so ferocious. He will not allow
any other alligator to approach the plaoe ; and on
that account the Malays almost w<Nrship him. In
going into the river near the entrance, where the
water is shallow, we several times touched the al-
ligators and large saw-fish (wliich are here i
mcnsely large), and they shook the boat as if
had nm violently against a rock. I procured the
snout of a saw-fish of an immense size here. It
required four canoes and ten or twelve men to se-
cure hun, when he was hooked ; and he run hif

A TUBA SLAVE IN THi: STOCKS. 127

teeth an incb into the boat, threatening to dash
the frail bark in pieces. This fish yielded eight
gantons of oil, used for caulking prows.

2StA February. — I was prepared to expect at
renewal of hostilities from our enemies the mus-
quitoes, from whose torments we had a respite only
while at sea, the fresh breezes driving. them away ;
and they commenced a most furious attack, which
they kept up, not permitting me to close my eyes
the whole night. We made a large fire, and en->
deavoured to smoke them out of the house ; but
all in vain. The mud around the house prevented
my moving out, and I was a close prisoner all day.
This, however, gave me an opportunity of acquir-
ing copious information from the shabundar, and
other respectable people, relative to the country.
A curious little Batta child was brought in, whose
back was covered with hair like a buf&loe. She
came from the interior of Panel. Close to the
shabundar's house, in an open shed, I observed a
man chained to a post by his neck, and his feet se-
cured in stocks. He was a Tubba slave, who had
been converted to Islamism, and had been many
years in bondage. He had run away some years,
and had been brought back only a few days. H^
was to be confined tiU he could be sold, his price
fifteen dollars. A little coarse rice was his only
food, and an old mat spread upon a floor of hard
lantysy his miserable bed. Ignatius Saneho's ap^

188 PADDY 8EA80N.

peal to Sterae came to my rccoUectaoii» on aeeii^
this poor creature. ** G>ii8ider how great m part
<< of our species in all ages, down to this, have bestt
^ trod under the foot of cruel and capridous ty-
'* rants, who would neither hear their cries, nor
^^ pity their distresses. Consider shivery, what it is.
^ How hitter a draught ; and how many millioM
^ are made to drink of it"

The small viUage of Kampong Balei was almost
deserted at the time I arrived, the people being
engaged in the paddy fields. When the crops are
gathered, they return to their wretched habitations
with the produce, and sell it to the prows which
come fixnn Batubara and other places. The crops
this season are abundant. Dozens of small boats
came down every evening, loaded with rioe and
paddy. Pepper has been lately tried np the eonn*
try, and about a coyan exported this year, of s vary
superior quality. Small quantities have also boss
procured from some of the adyoining rivers^ and tha
cultivation of this plant is increasing rapidly along
the coast ; so that in a &w years it will be immnnss,
The artaps with which the houses are oovaedL
are made of the nipab, kalubi, and pallas
all found in abundance.

lit March. — Still waiting for the arrival of t
chiefs from the interior. Diqiatched a bMt
the brig fiur provisions. 1 purchased a variety
s to*day, far the manufacture of wfaidi ti

JOURNEY TO SERANTAU. W

place is famous. Some of them are extremely fine,
and the open work very neat. They make small
bags for holding rice and clothes ; and baskets also
of extremely delicate workmanship. My clerk shot
a beautiful bird called the angang, buceios, or
horn-bill, as large as a turkey, with black plumage,
interspersed with yellow and white, with a largQ
broad yellow bill.

Towards noon, the shabundar of Serantau came
down with an invitation from the Sultan Muda
to go up to meet him. I accordingly proceeded
up, and arrived in the evening. I was received
with a salute of seven guns, and met at the land<i
ing place by the Sultan Muda, who handed me
into thejoima bechara, or hall of audience, which
had just been erected. He opened the letter
which was addressed to the rajah or Jang de per
tuan ; and having perused its contents, begged I
would accompany him to-morrow up the river, to
see the rajah, to which I consented. Crowds of
people from the country flocked in to see me. I
slept all night in the audience hall. The Sultan
Muda is a good looking, powerfril man. He is
very abstemious in his habits and mode of living,
eats little, and is not addicted to opium smoking,
or any other vice that I heard of He says, people
who are given to eating are always defective in
understanding. The sultan was extremely atten-
tive, and evinced every disposition to meet my

130 BATTA WORSHIP.

wishes in regard to all the objects of the mission.
He informed me that the rajah was at war in the
interior ; that tranquillity had been restored there
some months ago ; and that no sooner had the dif«
ferenoes between the Rajah Muda, and Bindahara,
and rajah, been settled, than they were engaged in
fresh hostilities with the Battas. In passing np
the river, we observed the remains of temporuy
fortifications and trees, on whicb swivels had been
fixed, to fire upon the enemy as they passed np
and down the river. Wherever I went, there was
or had lately been war. It is to be regretted that
such a spirit of warfare exists in such fine oonii^
tries, which, however, must always be the CMe
where the states are separated into sueh small
divisions, and where there are so many prtty
chieft.

The Battas who reside in the interior of Anm^
han, have a belief in three gods, one above, one in
the air, and one below ; but they offer no petitions;
nor do they show any symptoms of adoration to
any one of the three. Their only mode of worriiip
is beating the drum. They believe that when they
die, they shall become ghosts.

In the evening we were entertained with Batta
dances. A Pardimbanan boy danced with graA
spirit, but his gestures were more agile than gmee-
ful. A little Batta girl, as fair as a Chinese, frotti
Bulah, also went through a number of evohitmn.

MALAYS* AFFECTION FOR THEIR CHILDREN. 131

Here, as at other places, the natives are passion-
ately fond of music ; and the moment it was whis-
pered that a violin was in my boat, an immense
<9!owd assembled, who amused themselves tiU a late
hour. This is by far the most favourable time for
conversing with the Malays, when their hearts sace
open, and, being enlivened with music, they lay
aside all suspicion and restraint, and enter into
the most unreserved communications. I attri-
bute, in a good d^ree, the extraordinary succesli
of my mission, to this attention to embrace the
most favourable opportunities, and to my ap-
peiuing easy and indifferent, as not having any
weighty affair on hand. The chiefs are fond of
exhibiting their children in their fine clothes, and
covered with jewels. Being partial to children,
they were brought out before me in great num-
bers, and I gave them small presents. Nothing
pleases a Malay more than partiality to their chil-
^n ; and I could observe the fond looks of the
mothers, who modestly retired behind the canopies
with which the place was hung round, as their
little innocents were presented to me, watching
the reception they experienced, and listening at-
tentively to my partial remarks upon their ap-
pearanoe. It may appear perhaps puerile in me to
notice all these little circumstances ; but an atten-
ticm to the most minute ceremonies, or an anxiety
tx^ iSaakftm to the peculiar habits and prgudioes erf*

132 FKOUHESS UP Tllli: AiiSAHAN K1V£R.

the Malays, is necessary to ensure a hotpitaUe le-
eeption fitnn them, and to secure their coniidtfttc^
which, when once estahlished, is unbotmdadt and
cannot be shaken. There are many ^*"«^M^ traits
in the character of Makys, which a saper6cial ob-
server does not discover ; among othci% a warmth
and attachment to their offspring, which is ex^
tremely pleasing.

3d March. — The sultan presented my ptrty
with a bullock* which was daughtered prior to
setting out upon our long and arduous joomey.
Two small covered boats were prepared, in one of
which the Sultan Muda, myself, my writer,
draughtsman, and four Battas embarked ; in the
other, my clerk, two sepoys, one servant, three
lascars, and four Batta sUives, with the provisioBS.
We left Serantau at noon for the residence of the
rajah at Bcndar Passir Mandogei, up the river.

Serantau is a large straggling village, oo both
sides of the river. Opposite each house is a small
place adapted for bathing and other weAil piu^
poses, which disBgures the appearanoe of the eo^
tages, otherwise prettily situated amongst dinspi
of bamboos, plantains, &c. The bathing plaesa mt
strongly stockaded against attacks by the sl^ga*
tors. The sides of the river were crowded with llie
natives as we pushed along. The sultan b^ggsdi
that I would occasionally show myself to groopei of
these wondcr-gazing pe<^le. Our motaooa

PROORK88 UP THE ASSAHAN RIVER. 133

very (riflur at fint; the Sultan Muda stopping at
ana place for aefee, at another for betel-nut, and at
BMthtir fcr cocoa^nutB, and so on. The sides €i
tht mer aie eovered with paddy, and plantations
aCtobaooo^ poke of various sorts, sugar-cane, seree,
pimtainSi anau, and bread-fruit tree, cocoa-nut
and fruit trees ci the choicest descriptions. There
is^ in fiicty a greater appearance of abundance here,
I have seen at any of the other places. The
are numerous along the banks of the river,
and inland about seven or eight miles above Se-
nurtaOy where the ground again becomes low and
awampyy and continues so for about eight or ten
■Ufltp graduaUy rising, with high banks on each
ode of the river. There are also many inha-
kttaotf.

We halted at sun- set at Kampong Mungkuang,
lAnae we cooked our dinner, and remained for the
■ight. We were very much confined in the small
boat ; the sultan, a corpulent man, my draughts-
0HBI9 and myself, sleeping in a small cabin about

fcet by four. At this place were great quanti-
of the kabu kabu (cotton tree), used for stuf*
pillows, beds, &c

9d ManAj-^We again set out before day-light
dria morning, the current extremely strong, and
d» nver decreasing to the breadth of five or six
jmtiB in some places, and resembling rather a ditch
than a river. The current was in fact running a

134 JCLEPHANTS.

perfect sluicei and the people occasionally held oa
by the overhanging branches of trees. The aoil b
a fine rich mould over a bed of day, well suited fiir
the cultivation of pepper ; and there aie oonodaw
able spots of dear levd ground. The width of the
river continued to decrease, till at last there was
scarcely room for our little skiff to pass, the boak
actuaUy rubbing against the rccds on each side.

A small prow which we met with this aftemooii,
had the day before fSfdlen in with a very huge male
dephant in this narrow channel, whidi of oooxse
choaked up the passage. The crew, fimr in nuns*
her, fled to a tree not far off, where they remained
for the night, previously fastening the boat to the
reeds. The single male elephants are very danger*
ous. When they arc in herds, they generally lly
on the approach of boats ; but the single mies afe»
tack, and frequently kill the people in the boita.
Coming suddenly upon them, they take them vp
with their trunks, and dash them to the groondt
or throw them up in the air, and eatdi tham
upon their trunks as they fidL The Battaa
times attack them single-handed with huge
with which they stab them in the belly ; but tfasy
often suffer for their temerity. The most nsud
way of killing them is by lying in wait finr tham
as they pass down in the evening to the rives^
side to bathc^ the Battas oonceaUng themsalvea en
the branches of hirgc trees, and as the di^hMili

WILD BUFFAIX>£S. ALARM. 136

pass under, throwing down a Uurge heavy pointed
iron pik^ with a rope attached to it, which, if
properly directed, pierces the elephant through the
bf^k, and kills him on the spot. I saw two very
large tusks, which had been procured a few days
before, by this expedient. When an elephant is
Jlilled, the rajah gets one tusk, and the person who
kills the animal the other. This afternoon we saw
^ large, herd of wild buffaloes of an unoommoii
size, coming down to the river to bathe ; but on our
appearance they ran off into the jungles, a large
bull only halting below a tree, and, as it were^
watching our motions. The traces of elephants
were seen on a small sand-bank, where they ap«
peared to have recently been.

Towards evening we passed a small Batta kam«
pong, called Dorian, from the great number of that
fruit-tree which grows there. The few houses are
situated on a little mount. Here the ground
again becomes elevated, and the river increases to
the breadth of 100 yards. This large stream
branches off into three or four small channels, by
one of which we ascended. We afterwards came
up to Kampong Kesaran, where the soil is Si feet
light day, mixed with sand, and under it a stra-
tum of red earth. Near this village we heard the
ncnse of a large herd of elephants, in a cluster
of tcees dose to us. The sultan was alarmed, and
said we must make haste, as it would be danger-

186 PASSIR PUTIH.

out to remain there during the night The peopb
exerted themselves to get us up to the nUagv,
though it was now sun-set When the moon loae^
we pusbed up as far as Kampong Paasir Piitih>
where we renuuned for the ni.uht.

4M March. — The chief of the village was ready
to reecive me at sun-rise. His name is Rajah Lant^
brother-in-htw to the sultan, of a most dissipated
appearance. Here were some beautiful lifct^ horses^
eows, buffidoes» goats, and poultry ; and among sonit
large trees^dose behind the chiefs house, was a large
herd of elephants, which he wished us to go out
and assist him to attack ; but I was not modi skil*
led in these matters, and not knowing the path*
ways, I thought it more prudent for myself and
peofdc to remain where we were. I purrhased
from a Batta rajah here, a very handsome sword of
their own workmanship, called a kalapan, the
handle of which is a large mass of solid ivory. If
I may judge from the swords and knives whidi have
ivory handles here, that artide must be in great
abundance.

We left Passir Putih early, and readied Kaur
pong Pematang Layer, a smdl village on the ii|^
so called from the Javanese many centuries ago
making thdr sails there, llie houses are thatdied
with the leaves of the rotan and sirdang. Here I
saw great numbers (^children covered with blolohaa
on their faces. These ulcerations contiiiM^ ilbmf

I
SEPARATION OF A BOAT. tSf

«ay, for the first two or three years after their birth»
jad they afterwards become quite free of them.

The provision boat not being able to keep up
with ours, and being very anxibus to push on^ I
contented myself with the sultan's frugal fare, and
ate a little rice boiled by the Batta slaves, some
black salt, and the leg of a fowl burnt over the.fire^
its throat cut ten minutes before. The sultan
himself .was the executioner, with a little knife
which he always carried about with him for the
purpose. He invariably looked towards the sun on
grasping the* head of the fowl, and cut the outer
skin all around, according to the Mussulman cus*
tom.

As we approached Tanjong AUum, the banks
became very high. The soil is red earth, 8 feet
deep, and then a stratum of mud and sand. In
the course of the day we halted at a village called
Sejorei. About 50 fierce looking men came down
to meet us, as we ascended from the boat. We
went to their houses, where they showed abun-
dance of civility. The women were manufacturing
^loth. Their habitations were wretched huts, the
odes made of the bark of trees. This psut of the
country is very populous ; but their houses being
^situated in the woods, it has not the appearance of
being thickly inhabited. The Battas are afiraid of
the Malays on the sides of the river, who carry off
thrir children, and sell them as slaves.

138 BATTA VILLAUKS. INTEHBUPIIONS.

Wc passed Beveral other small villages almoit
entirely obscured in the woods ; some of their hnta^
which were situated on the eminences, only occukm-
ally peeping out They are romantically plaeed
on the summits of Uttle mounts, with flights of
stqis to ascend, and stockaded all around, as a pto-
teetion against the elephants,rhinoceroses,aiid tigen^
with which the woods aro fiUed. We came sod-
denly upon a party of women at the river side^
loaded with potatoes, pine apples, &e. which they
threw down, and made off with all qpeed.

We pushed on till eight o'clock, when it getting
dark, we made fast to a tree on the side of the river^
under a steep bauk« Having observed numeroua
tracks of elephants, and the reed whiph they prin-
cipally subsist ui)on devoured in large quantities^
dose to the place where wc were obliged to stop^
the sultan and his i)eoplc were in expectaticm of a
visit from them, and therefore made a lai^ fire to
keep them away. When the moon got up^ we
again pushed up against a current, which I can com.
pare to nothing I have ever seen, but that which
runs into a mill sluice. The river was fuU of stompe
of trees and rocks, the banks steep and boUt and
altogether presenting a scene more grand and pie*
turesquc than agreeable to me ; while the conita n t
cries of the sultan to keep steady in the boat» whick
was rockiiig about with the violence of the caneat^
effectually prevented all attempts at sound repon.

PICXUB£SQU£ SC£N£RY. 139

Tliis k the fourth night I have not had one con-
tixmsA hour's sleep. My fare has been frugal m*
deed* I w^ several times disposed to return .; but
J determined at last, that as I had got over so many
difficulties, I should proceed at all hazards.

My boat was not seen all day ; but as there were
lour of the sultan's slaves on board, I was under no
apprehensions, and time was precious to me. We
therefore made all speed.

6th March. — ^We found ourselves this morning
under a lofty ridge, and several Batta huts situat-
ed on the top of it, which had a very pleasing effect

** No fields of waving com were here,

^' Nor wicker storehouse for the autumnal grain.

Vineyard, nor bowing fig, nor fruitful grove ;

Only the rocky vale, the mountain stream,
'* Incumbent crags, and hills that over hills
'' Arose on either hand, here hung with woods."

South ey's Roderick,

The soil on the top of this ridge again improves
tQ a rich mould. On the margin of the river were
large masses of granite and light free-stone. In
the cliffs of the free-stone was growing a speciea
qf palm called bagat, resembling the nebong in ap-
pearance^ from which toddy and sugar is ^tracted*
It is indigenous. I was really so exhausted hy
fatigue, that as we went up the river, I could not
pay proper attention to many objects of interest ;
and being now accustomed to sail on so many ri-P

(€

MO OBJECrS OF NOTICE.

vers, what was no doubt worthy of notc^ and
which would have struck mc forcibly at aaodwr
time, passed unnoticed. I felt my defideacy n
natural history* and that I had not the poww cf
describing objects which might be rendered ao nradi
more interesting by the pen of a naturalist lomi
I experienced those emotions, howevert wludi an
80 well described by a celebrated traveller.^ ^ Na
'' language/' says he, *' can express the cmotieB
** which a naturalist feels when he touches fior the
** first time a land that is not European. The at»
*' tention is fixed upon so great a number ef ok
jects, that he can scarcely define the impiesnoB
he receives. At every step he thinks he diaeo*
vers some new production ; and in this tnmnltii>
^* ous state of mind, he does not recollect thoae
*' which are most common in our botanical g a i d ea a
'* and collections of natural history.**

^ Ve passed several prows loaded with salt» wUdi
had been ten and twelve days from Le Bantaa.
Ten days is the common passage for trading boata.
The inhabitants take their wives and childiai witli
them. Wc met the boat which had been aeat
up to announce my arrival, and were informed tliat
the rajah could not come down, being still at
with the Battas.

Humboldt.

R£MABKABIi£ ROCKS. Ml

I began to get rather tired of the boat ; but the
prospect of soon reaching the end of my journey,
kept up our spirits. The Battas in the boat were
filthy in their habits, occasionally employing the
little intervals of rest, when we halted, in extract^
ing certain noxious Uttle animals from each other's
heads, which were far too numerous to be agreeable.
A Fardimbanan boy in the boat was fond (j£
singing, with which he occasionally amused us.

The scenery now assumed a bold and picturesque
aspect. We passed two remarkable rocks, per<^
fectly alike, at least 200 feet high. The hills on
each side of the river are abrupt and lofty. We
diortly after passed two other large rocks called
Batu di Kikir, which appeared at a short distance
to block up the channel of. the river ; and when we
made a near approach to them, it appeared like en-
tering a cavern. These rocks seem to have been
<Hriginally united, and bore the marks of a chissel,
as if they had been hewn down by the hand of man,
which must have been a work of great labour. I
was informed, indeed, that they were cut by the
Portuguese many centuries ago, when that nation
ruled over Malacca, and had some settlements up
the Assahan river. The sea at that period rose as
£Eur as Serantau. A large tree lies right across
from one rock to the other, under which there is a
confined passage, just sufficient to allow a small boat
to pass. The river is not above twetity yards wide

14S GRAND SCEXERY.

herc» and is confined on cither side by these tre-
mendous rocks. They rise perpendicularly like a
wall from the edge of the water, and leave no space
to stand upon. The scenery here is inoonoeiTaUy
grand and sublime ; the lofty clifii and dark over*
hanging woods on either side» threatening, aa it
were, to fall down on the passenger, and orer-
whelm him in utter destruction. Beautifiil
springs of water, clear as crystal, were issuing out
of the rocks, and trickling down these immense
heights. The description of the Mctcora rocks in
Thcssaly, by a celebrated traveller,* is so exactly
applicable to this part of the scenery in the As*
sahan river, that I shall make no apokigy for in*
serting it, as it will convey a much more aocnrate
idea than my feeble description. " On eadi side
** of us were lofty pinnacles of rocks^ some entirely
conical, others very nearly rhomboidal in fixm,
and actually inclining over their base; othera
again perfect squares or oblongs, with perpendi*
cular sides and level summits. Nor by the tenn
** masses are mere fragments of rock to be undcr-
*' stood. It is the original mountain which is thus
^ wonderfully cleft and divided ; by what agency
** it may be difficult to determine ; but, p e rh a ps ,
by the joint operation of some convnloon, and of

€1

* HoUand'ii TraveU in Albanit, &c.

JOOtlV^^AL AT -BEin^AR PASSIE MAKTDOGEL 14&

that progressive decay vvbich proceeds so perpe»

tually and so extensively over tb^ fiftoe of the

gl«be "

We reaohed the small village of Bendar Fassir
Mandogei, ^toated on a small spot of level ground,
about i 50 feet above the river. It is a collection of
a few miserable hutSi The rajah of Munto Panei,
one or the principal cannibal chiefs, was here, and
received me with ceremony. He is a middle aged
man, fair cotnplezioned, and a great opium smoker.
He i^resented me with a tiijing, a silver mounted
knife, used fin- cutting up human flesh. My
draughtsman took a correct likeness of him, seated
with his opium apparatus* *-.

The rajah had just set out with 500 men, to at«
tack some Batta ^is, About a day's joohiey ; but
his mother as4'the olber people thinking I would
perhaps retuni if thef teld the truth, assured me
he was only gone out for the purpose of hunting
deer, an .amusement to which the inhabitants are
very paitiaL . The Sultan Muda set out imme-
diately after him. Behind this place, on the sum-
mit of' a lofty ridge of hiUs, are a great many
Batta forts, under the authority of the rajah of
Mulito F&nei. I set out to visit the nearest, and,
aA;er climbiag up a very steep hill, like a wall,
Elowly and ca^eftilly ascended, with the assistance
«f niy hands, « dangerous precipice on one side,

wh^ the* letet dip would h^ve beiKi fatal. In

■•^ • .' J."

144 EXCURSION TO A DATTA FORT.

this manner wc reached the summitt and a narrow
pathway conducted us to the first fort, called Paasir
Mandogei, containing 20 liouses, 10 on each sidcp
like a regular street, the entrance at one end a
mound of earth under each house, and the whole
well stockaded with sharp jwinted bamboos in the
form of a square, and thorny bushes, forming an im*
penetrable thicket all round, with a gateway at each
end. The graves of the dead are between the
dwellings, and at their doors. There were swarms
of pigs under the houses ; and to give an idea of
their abundance, I may mention that 20 small ones
only cost a dollar, llieir houses are made of the
banei leaf and the bark uf trees. The women and
children were swarming like bees, every house being
filled with them.

As evening approached, we made all haste back
to the village below, and our descent was even
more difficult than the ascent. There is an ad*
mirable description of this sort of sa^nery in Wa-
verly, which I cannot deny myself the gratification
of inserting. ** It was towards evening, as they
** entered one of the tremendous passes which af-
** ford communication between the high and low
** country ; the path, which was extremely steep and
** rugged, winded up a chasm between two tie-
** mendous rocks, following the passage which a
** foaming stream that brawled far below, appeared
** to have worn for itself in the course of ages. A

EAJAH OF UUNTO PANEI. 145

^ ftw felaiitiiig bemi of the sun, whith yf^as now
^ Mtttogt reiched tiie water in its dtrksome bed^
** and showed it partially chafed by an hundred
** rodLS^ and broken by an hundred fiiUs. The de^
** soent from the path to the stream was a mere
** pffecipioe> with here and there a projecting fhig*
" ment of granite or a scathed tree, which had
** warped its twisted roots into the fissures of tlie
** rock. On the right hand, the mountain, rose
** abore the path with almost equal inaccesttbility.
Twenty small jnrows were lying in the river, dis-
posing of thrir cargoes of salt, cloths, &c. Beyond
th]% no boat can ascend, owing to the intemiptioil
from falls and rocks in the river. We heard at fl
diatanee the rushing of waters, as from a high frlL
The Battas ascend some of the steep hills and pfo*
cipiosa in this quarter, by ropes of rattan, whidi are
ftstencd to trees abovi^ and left for the general use
of passengers* By this they soramUe up. If the
tape breaksy they are dashed to pieces, t prooured
a vatiety of curiosities to-day. Spedmens of theiif
aia% ▼!& kali^an and teijang, and their cloths.
In the enming, the rajah of Munto Panel played
upon the Batta violin with two strings^ ht my
amusement ; and as he spoke the language et tbo
Malays fluently, he conversed with me, and exael^
ed a piomise from me to go and see Munto FMel
aa I deactnded the river. He has 80 kampoogt
undm Us authority, having from 00 to 100 hooiss

CANNIBALS. 14?

fioe^ some of them resembling Bunnahs. Every
thing was new to them. Even a small looking-
glass was a novelty. I distributed two or three,
and the Battas evinced the greatest delight in look-t
ii^ at their Ibces. One chief» whom I presented
with on^ said he was happier than if I had given
him 50 dollars. The Battas called Europeans
** Malayu dangan gigi putih/' Malays with white
teeth. ^

We were now in the heart of the cannibal coun*
tryt and I was determined to investigate the habits
and manners of the people while I remained. I
again ascended the hill to the Batta viUage, where
a large crowd assembled in and round the balei <»
hall^ sharpening creeses and swords, and making
ereese handles, fcc I did not observe the heads of
any victims here ; but upon speaking to the rajah
of Munto Panei on the subject, he told me of a
man who had been eaten only six days before, at
one of the villages dose at hand, and that if I wish-
ed, he would immediately send and get the head for
me. He accordingly dispatched some of his people ;
and shortly afterwards we observed a large party of
Battas coming down the mountain, with this trophy
of victory. This unfortunate wretch was devoured^
I was infimned, in five minutes, each warrior ob»
taining only a very small piece. The body was
shared out as children do cakes at home. 1 shall
■ever forget the impression up(m my mind at ther

148 HEADS OF ENKMIES.

sight of a bare skull, suspended at one end of a
stick, a bundi of plantains on the other extremity,
and slung over a man's shoulder. The chief of the
village accompanied it, and brought with him to the
rajah of Munto Panel, six slaves, who had been
caught two days before, vi2. four women and two
children. I was offered many slaves, but refused
the acceptance of thenu I might have seen the
disgusting ceremony of eating human flesh, had I
chosen to accompany the rajah to the fort, whidi
he was about to attack (and which he was prevent-
ed from doing two days before by my arrival), with
500 men ; but thinking it not improbable that some
poor wretch might be sacrificed to show me the
ceremony, I declined witnessing it They seemed
quite surprised that I should have entertained a
doubt of the prevalence of cannibalism. The tijah
was about to besiege eight forts, under the authori-
ty of Rajah Tinding, of the tribe Terdolo.

At several of the adjacent forts were seen doaens
of skulls hung up in the balei. The heads of the
people killed in war are reckoned valuable pti»-
perty, and a chief is considered rich aceotding to
the number of such trophies which he posscis.
The friends of the deceased, when peace is restored^
purchase the skulls of their relations, sometimca as
high as SO or 40 dollars. The rajah*s motfaar
gave the man who brought the skull to m^
dollars. Immense crowds of Battas, men and

DIFFDKSNCE IN MikNNERS. 14A

men, contiBued to flock in on the side of the mer»
when I returned to the hoat ; and there were soma
interesting groupes of women, who were going out
to commence their lahour of cutting down paddy,
&C. The dress of these wom^i consisted of a scant
petticoat, which scarcely reached to the knee, and
their breasts were quite bare. I nev^ saw such
savages. They were very dark and ill^featured.
At the other villages too, the women were in the
same state of nudity, and girls of 10 and 1 2 years
of age appeared without any clothing at all. It
by no means follows that the women who wear few
clothes are less virtuous than the others. Indeed,
I believe the contrary to be the case; and both
Ihey and the men to be more particular than those
who are more polished in their dress and manners
I observed, indeed, a natural timidity and bashful^'
ness about these, which was not so perceptible in
others who resided in the Malay chief's house.
The young rajah's house is full of women, some
of them b^utifully fair. I saw not less than fifty
good looking girls in his house. If a Batta r^ah
refuses to give him a daughter, he makes war upon
him, on some pretence or other, and takes them by
force. The rajah of Munto Panei assists him with
men, and shares in the spoil, while his people feast
upon the slain. Some of these chi^' daugbtem
of the Pardimbanan tribe (the Tubbas are the dark
race), are beautifully fair. In their manner there

150 RETURN OF THE RAJAH OF ASSAUAN.

was a freedom which I had not observed anywhere
else. The young men and women were playing
and pinching each other, and showing other symp*
toms of the softer passion, like the country lada
and lasses at a wake at home. I was frequently
asked how many wives I had ; and upon tdling
them that our laws admitted of only one, they were
quite astonished. The king's mother and gruid*
mother, the only two ladies I conversed with, ex*
pressed even more surprise than the men on this
matter.

At two o'clock the rajah arrived with a crowd
of followers, and saluted me on entering the hooae^
which I returned in the best way I could, with two
muskets. The Sultan Muda, my companion in
the boat, returned quite fatigued, after a most le*
vere journey. Between two and six o^dodc yertcr*
day, he passed through nine forts. He dimbed
up some terrible precipices by ropes, and both hit
and the rajah's hands and feet were cut and acntrii«
ed. I remained with the rajah several haan, and
he pressed me to continue some days with him ;
but having arranged every thing, and accomplidi-
ed all the more important objects of the mimm, I
prepared for descending the river to-morrow. Here
also I made payments in sicca rupees and aukm^
for cloth, &c. The rajah sent me supplies of sweet
potatoes, onions, fowls, goats, pigs, &c.

There is no doubt, that by the distribution of ^

ABRIVAL OF TUBBA TRADERS. 151

▼ariety of little artides, I have excited a taste for
our maau&ctures. The extraordinary circumstance
of a small looking-glass being an object of wonder,
shows what remains to be done, and what a fine
fidd there is yet open for the introduction of our
manufiictures amongst an immense population,
whose forests abound with the most valuable pro>
ducts. This is indeed a rich country, and produc-
tive of the choicest commodities, to collect which
little labour is required. I observed the chiefs had
a partiality for European chintzes, and particularly
for scarlet broad doth, of which they would have
made purchases, had there been any for sale. The
cold in the mornings is excessive, and requires
warm dothing.

7th March. — The Tubba traders from the
mountains on the other side, continued flocking
in all day in great numbers. A large party from
a place odled Janji Maria, were loaded wiUi cot-
ton, doths, &c. This is a very populous and laige
town, containing four hundred houses, according to
repcnrt The chiefr of the adjoining villages
brought me pigs, rice, and pulse, expecting a return
of some small artides of British manufiicture, in
which I did not disappoint them. Crowds of
wild looking savages, dressed prindpally in theb
own doths and bark of trees, armed with swovds
and spears, were on the banks of the river, as we
desecoded to the boats ; and the scene wai iltqjpe*

1^ DKgOSNQ T0B aiVEE AfiSAUAli.

thflr aa wil4 as om be pictmred They weie, ho«r«
6? er, quite peaceable and harmless, and allowed me
tp examine their dresses and ann% and seemed
pleased when I notioed or conversed with them*
We got into our boats at noon, and ptooeeded
down the river, the current sweeping ns down with
alarming velocity. This is now the ninth ixf
ance I left the brig, and I have not been able to
qhange my dotbes twice. I have not slept two
hours at a time ; and several of my people being
attacked with fever and agu^ I was anxious to get
back as soon as possible.

The r^iah of M unto Panel accompanied me down
the river to the village, which is seven miles bdow
where we were. We then got out of the boaty and
proceeded to the village, which is two miles inland,
situated on a hill which has a fine level plain upon
it; and is surrounded on all sides by an almost im-
penetrable thicket, with a small rivulet in the
ravine. On this plain, herds of fiit bollocks and
buffidoes were grasng. The hill is about four
miles in cirtumfisrenoe. The village is buried in a
dump of lofty tre^s, and oontaina about 70 houses^
the number of inhabitants about ISOa In the
Indosure were some of the finest ponies I ever saw*
aa &t as pomiUe; cows in plenty ; and jigfi, foats^
dflijs, and poultry innumerable. Qp the otbsi
side of the mvine pas a beautiful dear hiUf eofer*
ed with ■^•**^^*"*^ faiian* nulae. vams. ktladi and

VISIT TO MUNTO VAHKl. 153

fmt^tfeeB, I never miw more unequivocal iniurks
of plenty ; and though the houses were not hand^r
some, they had an appearance of comfort The
rqah's house stood in the middle, and is a neat
building. Strange, that a people having suob
abundance of cattle and vegetable productions,
should be tempted to devour each other. It is
dear, however, that it is not hunger whidi prompts
this atrocity, but revenge on their enemiest Hero
the price of a fat bullock is ten dollars ; twenty
small pigs, and as many fowls, for a dollar.

In respect to furniture, the demands of the oe*
eupants of the upper part of the house are but
little more than those under it, man and beast be*
ing nearly on a par in this respect, the pig having
his trough, and some grass or leaves to recline on,
while tho Batta has his cooking pot and mat
lliis is of course only applicable to the lower
class ; for the chiefs have a few other artides, such
as seree boxes, brass plates, &c.

Here, I observed, the dress was wholly of oouik*
try manufacture, with the exception of the ngah,
and two or three of the chiefs around him, whQ
were dressed in European chints bajoos, Bugguese
sarongs, and Acheen or Batubara trowsers, with a
neat handkerchief on their head, of Java or Brit
tish manufiicture.

The rajah of Munto Pand having associated
nmsb m%h the Malays is quite dviUaed inhiv

Iu4 ALAllM AT NU;HT.

manners, and a pleasant man to converse with.
He assured me that he did not cat human flesh
himself; but he could not persuade his subjects to
refrain from their ancient practices. Previoos to my
taking leave of him» he begged me to send him
two dogs to catch deer ; and in order that I might
not forget his commission, he wrote upon a joint
of bamboo, a memorandum to that effect in his
own language, which I brought with me ; also the
numbers from one to ten.

8/A March. — Last night, in passing down the
river, we were thrown into alarm shortly after we
halted for the night, by hearing voices close to us
in the wood, in which was no habitation near.
We challenged the people, hut no satisfiutory
answer being returned, the sultan felt sure they
were a banditti, who lurk about the banks of the
river, and pick off people from the boats as they
pass and repass. A man was killed near this spot
about a month before in that wav. We all arm*
ed ourselves, waded ashore, and were proceeding
cautiously amongst the trees to take them by sur-
prise, when we observed a party sitting under a
large tree ; and a small lire which Ix^n to Uaae,
displayed the group to our view. Tlie two sepoys^ and
a fe%v of us who had muskets, had cocked our pieees^
and were waiting for my orders to fire amongst
them, when happily the glimmering light showed
mc a number of women and children, and we i

PROGRESS DOWN THE ASSAHAN RIVER. 166

stantly recovered our pieces. We were now with-
in twenty yards of them ; and their consternation
was no less than ours, when we first heard their
voices. They proved to be a party of the subjects
of the rajah of Munto Panei, who were travel-
ling up the country through the woods, and had
halted for the night under a tree. The sultan,
however, was by no means at ease, and kept
pacing about the small sand-bank all night, my
two sepoys, and two or three of his people, keeping
a strict watch all night. During the night, break-
&st was cooked, and we again proceeded down the
river at five o'clock. Here we were again amongst
the elephants, which must be very numerous, as at
every place we stopped, we saw the impression of
their feet. A well equipped boat, with two or
three swivels, might destroy a great number of
these animals, and obtain much ivory. We passed
Passir Putih at ten o'clock. The rajah's brother,
Hajah Salong, was confined in a large cage in the
centre of the room. He is mad, and had got loose
a few days before, and was secured, after wounding
several people. He had a most wild, ferocious look.
We arrived at Serantau at five o'clock, and
having moved every thing into the large boat
(which Gunner Manuel had repaired and caulked
during my absence), and being provided with a
guide, I went down with the tide to Tanjong Bald.
Jt was eight o'clock at night ; but being anxious to

loO aiCKMEsa.

return to the vessel, and numy of my people toffir-
ing from fever, and ague, and bowel ecMBplauit% I
immediately waited upon the Bindahara, who had
arrived from the interior to meet me. He is a hag*
gard ill looking man, and bears all the mariu of a
dissolute life. He wished me to go up to meet
the Rigah Muda, but we were aU so fiitigued with
our late journey, that we were unable to undertake
another.

9th JIfaTicA.— Left Tanjong Balei early thii
morning, and reached the brig at noon. My
friends on board remarked a great change in the
appearance of oiur party that had accompanied me
to the mountains. The Bindahara, Shabondar
Moobin, and I^jah Laut, cam^ off, and I gave
them all small presents. The Bindahara waa sa-
luted with five guns. There were not less thaa
150 people on board to-day. I fimnd on my ie<
turn on board, that the native pilot Jaffer had died
a few days before, and that, by order of Mr Car*
negy, lus remains were interred at the Sandy
Point, near the mouth of the river. The fever
which he caught at Batubara carried him oC >n
spite of all the remedies that could be devised.

The two sepoys who accompanied me np the
river, the lascars, and my servant, were labooring
under a fever, and my clerk and mjrself fdt fever*
ish symptoms. We weighed with a fine fareeae at
sun-set, and were standing to the eastweidt wfaei

SEVERE StTMAtRA SQUALL. 15^

one of those tremendous squalls, so well known by
the name of '' sumatras^" laid the brig upon her
beam-ends in a mcmient ; and though preparations
Were made, and no sails set, she continued to lie
over under bare poles, and we never expected her
to right again. The wind continued to blow with
unabated and tremendous fury for half an hour ', it
rained in torrents, and the vessel drifted with two
anchors ahead, upon a dangerous sand-bank astern.
We were in 2 fathoms water, when providentiaUy
the wind moderated, and the anchors held. We
remained in this situation all nights

While I was at Tanjong Balei, a man came in
from Bulah, and informed me that the sultan of
Panel had gone to Slack, and the Rajah Muda of
Bulah also; so that my going to these places
would be of no possiUe use. In consequence of
the dangerous bennoah or bore, which is repre*
sented to be in the Reccan, of which the Tanah
Futih and Banca are tributary rivers, and which it
requires the greatest skill to encounter, I resolved
not to return into them, more particularly consi*
dering the deficiency of the brig in r^ard to an-
chors and cables, and the ignorance of the captain.
Tlie descripticm given by Lieutenant Rose is well
calculated to alarm even the most e(xperienced na-
vigator, and to deter any one from visiting tiiLi
river, except from urgent necessity. Another <xm*
sideration was, that I had not supplies to last dtt«

158 SKRIOUS S1CKNES>.

riog the time that would be necessary to aooom*
pliih my visit to these places. As they are under
the immediate authority of Siack, and are not of
very great importance in a commercial view, I did
not consider it proper to incur either haaid or de-
lay by visiting them.

lOth March. — Standing on for Siadi thb morn-
ing with a light breeze. The people who were at*
tacked with fever yesterday, had a return of the fit
to*day ; and in addition to these, seven more were
seised in the course of the day. Fifteen invalids
now lay unfit for duty. The death of the pilot
has, I observe, created a visible alarm in the minds
of the patients, as well as of those who are sUU in
health ; and the native doctor not being ocnnpetent
to prescribe for them, I determined upon toudiing
at Malacca for medical assistance* This place was
not much out of our course, being obliged to go
within sight of it, before crosnng over to Siack.
Another principal inducement for toudung at
Malacca was to procure a pilot to take the vessd
into the Siack river.

nth Jl/arcA.— We had but light baffling winds
aU night, and during the day heavy rain, wlii«ji
was particularly unfortunate, as the fever patients
were in consequence obliged to go below, when
their situation was extremely crowded and unoood*
fortable. To-day we had a farther addition to the
sick list, making in all 17 sick with fever. I

ARROA ISI^VNDS. SALCNGORE SHORE. 159

in oonsequenoe exceedingly impatient to readi
Malacca. Calms all the afternoon.

I2th March. — ^The high land of Salengore was
very visible this morning, ana we were in 7 fathoms
water, the captain, as usual, ignorant where we
were. At eight o'clock, the Arroa islands visible
from the mast-head. The number of sick was in-
crea^ to-day to 21. Made but little progresSr
with %ht baffling winds.

1^ March. — Light winds all day. At eight
in tj^ evening, anchored opposite Parcelar HilL
The, jiiumber of invalids the same as yesterday.

14M March. — We fell in with a ship this
morning, with which I sent letters, thinking she
might be boimd to Pinang. The vessel proved to
be the James Drummond, from Banca to MidiiSr
The patients considerably decreased in number to*
day.

1 5th March. — Anchored in Malacca roads at
live P. H. Sent Mr Luther on shore, for a pilot
and water. Saluted the fort with 1 1 guns, whidi
was returned. The invalids were all rapidly re-
covering, the sea-breezes evidenUy having a bene-
ficial influence. . «
. 1 6th ilfarcA.— My clerk not having been abfe
to procure a pilot, I went ashore at sun-rise, mi
after a Uttlc trouble engaged one. Returned m
boar4 at noon, with the intention of wei^^ui^f but
wind and tide being adverse, wc remained at

16D DANG£UOUS SITUATION.

dior till iun-aet, and then made all tail for Slack.
In croning the straits, we had a narrow eMape«
About midnight, it l^ing very dark, and rather
squally, we were running before the wind, and sud^
denly perceired an immense Chinese junk fimn
Siam, dom upon u% running at the rate of six
knots. Destruction seemed inevitable; and our
captain was seised with such a panic, that hieonU
not speak, or ^ve any orders for bracing tp the
yards, and altering our course. The junk waaaow
within a few yards of the brig, her stem ng^ for
the Jessy's broadside. Mr Brown, however, fortu-
nately jumped upon deck, and with great presence
of mind luffed up to the wind. This person had
been in two vessels before, at the time they were
run down by others and sunk, and he had no incli-
nation for a third triaL By this time, the tbmg
of eight or ten muskets by the sepoys had roused
the Chinese^ who were all asleep. They exdaim-
ed heigh^d^ and altered their course instantly*
At day«ligfat» we were at anchor off Taigoiig
Jattee.

17th MarcL-^AndmeA at noon at Bukit Ba-
tu. Here we were met by Tuanko IjODgpatSh^ a
man of celebrity in these seas. He had been ez«
pellcd firom Jambi about eight months bcfofe, and
had lost three of his sons in one day, who wen
attacked while bathing in the iiv«r, and
He sent his writer on board to in%nit«

t -tj-^i

EFTTER THE 8IACK KIVER. 161

if a Titit fvould be 9gnnJtie. When he came mt
board, his first inquiries were respecting one of his
wives, who had been carried off by the Siamese
fimn Qnedab. He had three prows, and was
about to sail for Singapore, to see Sir Stamfintl
Raffles, and intends diortly visiting Pinang. In
the afternoon, we stood fiutber up the straits of
Tanjong Jattee. We did not greatly like the ap-
pearance of Tuanko Long^s prows, which were full
of men and arms, and continued hovering about till
sun-set I was aware that he was one of the most
desperate pirates in those seas, and one of the crew
of the Jessy had been taken by him afewyearsago^
in a small brig belonging to Java, in the straits of
Drion. This man was kept as his slave at Siadc
about ten months, when he effected his escape to
Malacca. I received him with apparent cordiality^
but was fully prepared for any attack.

I8//1 March. — Entered the Siack river this
morning. The water was almost as red as blood;
and covered with foam, and had a most disagreeable
appearance. The river is deep, and about three*
quarters of a mile wide at the entrance. The tide
bdng favourable, and a fine breeze springing up;
we sailed up about 25 miles. The sides of tlM
river were low, and covered with jungle ; but we 00^
casionally saw spots which were cleared for paddyj
and the pilot informed me the inhabitants iHai
nuihenms ; though the greater part of the houses

IM DUTCH Mission.

mn ooDcetlsd innii tbt Tiew bjr tli6 tiws wiiidi
hftTc grown op dofc to themaigin of the rifier» and
whidi are left untottdied. We psiscd Pulo^Smw
tong, an islaad about six miles from the eDtraaoe
of the rirer, where the Dutch formerly had a settle-
ment, and whidi they lately qiplied hr again.
Aboat 80 years ago, the Dutch garrison wane mas-
sacred by a small party of Malays, who came iqwn
them at unawares, and attacked them in opea day.

The Dutch brig of war Syrene, of 18 guns^ and
MO men, was here about three months agow The
ngah would not permit them to ascend further than
Bokit Batu, where he had 40 war boatsrsady, and
cannon mounted on the shore, to resist their further
p rogre ss . During the day we met many prowc ;
but aa the inhabitants of this place had the charae*
tcr of being addicted to piracy, and I was caution-
ed at all the places I visited, to be careful in not
permitting many people to come on board, I did
not encourage their visits.

19th March.— Kept a good look ont all nigH
during which we were disturbed by boata descend-
ing the rivor, the crews of which made a grsat
noise. We went forward about SO miles mono
to-day. About one p. m. the writer of the ngah»
(Mali) came on board, as he said* by the kb^a
eiders, to inquire who we were, whether Dntdi or
En^lidi, having heard that a brig had csiterad the
river. He was tderaUy well aware^ hamn m^ wIm

trlSIT FBOM CHI£F8 OF SUCK. M

Hie wtM$ ctberwi80 we dbeuld hare been pievented
from adf aacing so fiur. t had, beetdes^ seat aotieef
Mme time befoia of our intended visit. Upon in^^
tmmmg MaK wha I wai» he said, *' V erj weD, youl
** oMiy asoend as seon as joa ^ease* We wonid
^ not allow tile Diitch to do so ; bnt tre have long
'^ been friends with the English.'' Heaslndlneif
it was the Dutch or English whe had crossed over
from the west coast, and were fightfaig at Menangi'
kabau. He seemed to think tfast the Dutch wevcf
aiming at the possession of the whole country from
Padang to Siack. He mentioned that they weref
making a military road as they adranoed in thekf
conquests.

Mth JfarcA.-*— Shedc Mahomed, son of Shock
AbdoBa, a tiA and respectable merchant here^
iffbo had bera in the habit of trsding with Pinang/
came en boaxd in the middle of the night, with m
munber of other respectable young men, most de^
gantly dressed with silk dresses, and gold doth
tmrbttis. Their long bajoos were prineipaUy mader
of very rich kinoobs or Snrat silk doth, worn hf
die Ambs« These youths mme of Arab descent^
and were all dressed in the style of these peopb^
By Shade Mahomed I had sent as. message a hn/
asonths ago to the king^ of my intended visi|^
wfaieh he said he wasplessed to hear, and fvpeiilidj
me as soon as poesiUe. We ascended St adlai
ftsthsr ID the river to^y.

161 ARBIVAL AT TII£ CITY OF SUCK.

Sheck Mahomed repKieiented the country m bciiig
in a disturbed state, and the oommeioe neatly at a
stand, in consequeuee of the oommofeions in the ia*
terior, and the rigid injunctions of a rdigions seek
called Rinchi, consisting of four chiefr, who have
prohibited the use of opium, under the penalty of
death, and also the wearing of oolenred ganne&ta.

2lst March.^^UHA up with the tide and a
light breese, and anchored at three o'dock in the
mcMming. We were aUe to continue our piog iess
the last two nights by moon-li^it. The rirer as*
without exception, the finest I ever saw, in regard
to regular soundings. The width at the town of
Siack may be about 200 yards.

iad March. — ^As the day dawned, we sainted
the rajah with nine guns. We fonnd ourselves in
the heart of a large and populous town, the houses
extending a considerable way on both aides of the
river, and many prows lying near the banks. The
Tuanko Pangiran, who formerly had a contract for
the sujqply of ship-timber, sent on board a prfwnf
of poultry, eggs, fruit, &c. and invited me to meek
him before communicating with the ngah. I kan^
however, from a person who came on board, thai
the rajah and he were not on very good ttan, and
thetefofe returned him a dvil answer, thak I shonld
see him by and by. I should have givcsi o i iM i es
to the ngiJi had I made my first visit to the T»
anko Pangiran. After bmkfost I wmted en itm

INTKEVIEW WITH THE RAJAH OF HACK. 105

king, and was received with all poisiUe vespeet.
A salute was ftred <m my reaching the shore, and
one of the cfaieft was sent on board to convey the
letter from the honourable thrgovemor. When
the letter and the jnesents were laid upon the
table before the king, another salute of nine guns
was fired. I landed all the soldiers, and as many
of my people us could be spared from the vessel,
being aware how much the Malays are impressed
with any thing like diiow, whidi both gains their
respect, and intimidates the evil disposed from any
designs they might contrive against the safety of
the vessel. All the chiefs were assembled in the
verandah, which extended the whole length of the
house, and was fitted up with elegant oinopies of
gold and silk cloths bung all round ; and an en-
tertainment was set before roe, consisting of the
greatest profusion and variety of sweetmeats, tea,
cofTce, sherbet, &c.

The rajah is a corpulent, good humoured look-
ing man ; but his fiice bears too evident traces of
his propensity to opium smoking. I explained the
objects of the mission ; and, amongst other things,
said, I hoped he bore in recollection the treaty
made with Colonel Farquhar in 1818. He utf-
hesitatrogly replied, ^ Mana bulih buang Jaii|i
M dangan Orang Engris.** ^ How can a treaty
"^ with the EngHsh be broken.* He said Ae
Ihitdi bad visited him about three BMMiths ago^

M6 DiratJmiKD STATE OF THE OOnfTEY.

/atd wished to toum a setdanent, bnk he lefinedt
I remained aboat two hoim eonfeisbg with the
king upon vari<9is subjects, and he promised to in*
finrm me when he should be leady to eo n ?etse widi
me more perticnlarly on business, autimatiag thai
his purpose was first to oonsult with his dnefik

There was an immense assemUage of the nobles
of the eountrj, and chiefii fimn many of the ad*
jdning states tributary to Siadu The Ibllowing
were the prjncipsl : Tuanko PsBgiran, Psnglinia
Bessr, Ihitu Pskamaraja, Dstu SaUd^i Wangsst
Datu M sharajalda Muda, and Tuan Imam* the
fJiieft neEt in rsnk to the king. There wen also
the Rajah Muda of Buhdi, chieft from Tanali-
putih in the Reeean, vis. Rajah Soangsa, Dabi
SetiapahUwan, Senadinga, and Shabundar; ham
Kubu, the Imam, and Panguhi Umba Rayah, the
Qrang Kaya Bili of Banea, and the Shabundar of
Bukit Batu ; besides Tuanko Sembo^ son of the
Pangiran, Tuanko Syed, Tuanko Kednl, and Tn-
anko Sendit, his nephews^ all men of infiuenee and
importance in the country.

The country was fimnerly fery popqlooi^ bat
has been gradually declining during the last tsa
years : many of the inhabitants hate fled to RtM^
Tringanu, Pontiana, and the numerous peeli aleng
the east coast, as fitf as Timian. I was inftmed
that the inhabitants up the Mandow mer am
f|uite barfaaffous, and are dressed sdely fat lbs hulk

OPFOfilTION TO THX DUTCH. 107

of treei. The Tuanko FBogiiaa gtve me fimr
Imge webs of the doth, two of which I forwaidedf
bjr his deare» to CoioDel Farqubar at ffingiq^om.
They are of different degrees of finenen.

The Pangiraii did not meet the Dutch hUHj,
being in the interior of the eoontarjr ; and it waa
against his wishes that any treaty should have
been made with them. He says, if the Dutdbi
oome to Siack, he will instantly quit the country.
He was careful in qpeaking to me, and looked
around him suspiciously, to ascertain who was pna*
sent. He said, in going across the river, ^ Aa»
** derson, hoist the English colours here at ones^
** and remain here. This is the only way of sav*
^ ing the country from impending ruin." I re»
plied, that I had no authority to do any thing of
this kind, and explained that it was not the po*
licy of the government to extend its possession^
but merely to give assistance and protection to the
merchants of Pinang, and to secure a fair and
equitable participation in the trade.

The Pangiran is a sensibly well informed man*
He is well instructed in the history of the prinei^
pal European states, and in the conditioo of the
British possessions in Imlia, and surprised me hf
lus remarks upon Bonaparte, whose diaractsr ka
seemed correctly to appreciate. He showed aM
with particular delight a ring^ which the late Eari
of Wnio had taken from his own fingsr, and |Mil

108 VISITS OF

upon his, and other tokens of friendship from
I^ord Exmouth, Admind Dnuy, and other distin-
guished characters who were in this qpiarter some
years aga

. At three o'clock the Pangiran came on board,
by special invitotion, to pay me a visit of ceremony,
superbly dressed in silk, covered with gold laoe;
his son, an interesting and handaome youth of six-
teen, and his two nephews, accompanying himu
Saluted him with seven guns. He was anxious to
have had an hour's private conversation, but we
were interrupted by the arrival of numerous vi»
sitors, who crowded the decks of our small vessel.
The Rajah Muda of Beelah had been sent over as
a spy upon the Pangiran's conversation, when we
crossed the river, after the amfercnce with the
ngak

. Sheck Abdulla, the rich merchant befine men-
tioned, his son, and sev^al well-dressed Arabs and
chiefs, came on board, and detuned me in conversa-
tion till four o'docL I had been the means, a Sem
years ago^ of saving a very valuable vessd and
cargo belonging to this man. The cargo was worth
80,000 dollars, consisting of coarse Madias hhie
doths, European chintaeib gold thread, raw silk,
sticklac^ iron, and salt The vessel grounded on a
sand-hank at the south end of Pnlo Jengah* and
being out boat sailings I accidentally Ml in with
her. I immediately proceeded to town, and bvom^

GRATITUDE OF All A&AB IfKBCHAMT. 19

«x laige oftijgo boats, cabletp and an maAor, kindly
iupplied by Mr Wright, and after two days cxer<*
tion, got her ofl^ and saved the vessd and eaigo.
I also lent them 100 dcdlars to pay the boat faiie^
&C which was punctually repaid by a remittanee
in gold-dust. This man mentioned the dreum^
stance to the king, and puUidy thanked me to-day
before all the assemUed chiefii ; so much was this
little act of common humanity and attention prized
by these people, who certainly possess the virtue of
gratitude in an eminent degree. I bdieve I owi^
in a good d^ree, the success whidi attended my
mission, and the hospitable reception I met widi
at Siack, to this circumstance.

The greatest surprise was expressed by all the

efaieft, by the king in particular, on being infbrm^

ed that I had penetrated into the Batta country,

He said, addressing the surrounding multitude^

** Ah, this is the way the English manage : the

** Dutch dared not do this.'' Even many of the

old chie& who were present, and had been engaged

in the wars at Assahan, DelU, and other plaeei

conquered by the rajah of Siads, had nevmr

ascended so fiur as I did, and made very partJcnlar

inquiries relative to the population of the BaHa

sUtes, &C. The ngah asked me if I was not afipi&

I replied that I was rather a predestmariaa, ttod

that there was a time appointed fiir all to die;

that as I went with pacific intentions^ and peniy

170 FOUCY AT RlUa

to derisc metns far impnmiig the ooameltt and
oondition of the countries I TWtedt I ftlt no iqp>
prdieDsioni, oonidoui that my motives only ro>
qnired to be known to be appreciated ; and that»
being fiand of travelling, 1 widied also to satisfy a
lational cnriosity.

The king» in the coone of conversation, asked
my opinion of the seiiure of the legaUa of Rhio
by the Dutch. I said I know fittle about the
matter. He then informed me what the general
opinion amongst the Malays was» via. that it waa
a robbery, and unbecoming the dignity of any go-
vernment He said that Mr Tyssen, the late go-
vernor of Malacca, died shortly after his journey to
Rhio, which the Malays consider as a just puidsh-
ment for the sciaure of the regalia from the late
queen. It was further asserted by the people of
Siadc, that Mr Tysscn was seiaed with a sort of
stnpor or delirium« the moment the regalia came into
his possession. He called the doctor to feel his
pulse ; the doctor assured him that nothing ailed
him. The Pangiran informed me^ that he under-
stood Mrs Tyssen had caused her husband to be
opened, and seven small stones were found on his left
side. Such is the history of Mr Tyssen*s death.
The Makys at Siack, and every place I visited* ap-
pear to be much incensed at this act ; and if tho
same feeling prevails in other quarters, the Dutdi
interests must suffer materially by this outngau

f AETIAI4TT FOft THl ItfOLUH. 171

jh jmtim^lmniYetp tothadhgictqrof oMfor wlma
J entertained the ln|^t wyact^ and wiwe faoipt
tili^ waa nnbotmdfd, I mnat e xp r ow my diriidief
that Mr Ty«an eonld in any eaae haro deparlad
Imn the atriet liM of p a op r i a ty and dnty, or tthat
he would have taken any ttep to which he wpl
not postividy directed by Ugher antheiity^

Late in-the afieniooiit the torn dataa ant me a
meaBage» that they wished to tee me aduve. {
was received by them at the boose of the head
data, with every possible demonstntion of reqpeet;
They interrogated me particnlarly as to die ftm
ciae objects of the mission* We had a long ai)gii^
ment upon the treaty whidi was made a few years
aga The datus mentioned some anecdotes df tiM
harsh conduct of the Dotdi in fimner times, whaa
that nation had a settlement at Pnlo Gnnton^
from which tbey were expelled. One of them
showed me a kris, with which his great-grand&thev
had killed a great number of the Dutch on that oec»»
sum, being one of the four datus who commenced
the slaughter with Ri^ah Buang. He pretended
to show me some of the blood of the unfertunala
Dutchmen still upon it. They all expressed theii
anxiety that Malacca should be again under tiM
English government, and dwelt upon the advaitt
tages they enjoyed, and facilities of conunerae w»>
der the mild and benevolent government of Odoiiel
Fanpihar) who was ao many years rosidot at thit

178 VISIT TO THE PANGLIMA BB8AR.

itatian, and who it m deservedly estoemad in all
die smToundiBg Malayan eountries.

I purdiased a variety of spedmens of the de-
gant silk and gold doths of the eouitry, wUdi are
even finer and more qplendid than Aote ef Batth
ban.

881/ if arcA.— Waited by invitation on the IV
anko Panglima Besar. His house was bang ronnd
nrith canopies of rich gold doths ; and he and bb
brother were elegantly attired in gold and rift
doths from head to foot. A large table wto Ui
out with sweetmeats of the choicest deseriptiont
many of them really equal to the finest m BirdiV,
or in Bond-street. I was here, as at the oUier
|daoes» recdved with the greatest respect and cae>
mony. The datus and chie6 were assgmbkd to
meet me. After remaining some time with the
Panglima Besar, I proceeded up a small river called
Mumpoo, to the rendcnce of Sheck AbdnDa, where
1 was also hospitably entertained, the principal
people meeting me at the wharf» wbidi leads from
the river to his house, and conducting me bade to
the boat This part is very populous; the bouses
are huge, and substantiaUy constructed of immenoe
laige trees for posts and cross pieces, and the ddea
plank, neatly formed into pannels, and carvdL
Their elegancet however, is not improved by the
a^P^arance of certain little useful houses in tba
river, built upon very large logs of wood, and wfakk

VISIT to THE RAJAH OF SLACK. 1)3

contUiae floatiiig. Oa our return* we went aeron
through some pkntitions ci fruit-trees* with Bume^^
rous bouaes iBtarspeised^ and sent the boat down to
meet us at the point I bad a very agreeable watt
of aa hour through the villager Fruit-trees ^rave
seen of all descriptions* but none in season except
pmnaloes* rose-applei^ plantains^ and pine-apples.

At three o'clock, the rajah sent on board to u*
vite me to a conference. I found all the diiefii itf
attendance* He Was dressed in a superb suit of
gold thread doth* different from yesterday ; Itts
kris^ swords of state, spears, with a shield and seree
box, all borne by shives behind him, were <^ the
most elegant wrought gold filagree work— ^I mean
the sheaths and cases. He wore a most magnift-'
cent pinding, set with brilliant diamonds of a ]Bi|[e
siae, which .reminded me of the Brooch of Lorn*. .

'^ Whence the brooch of hurning gold^
*' Thut clasps the chieftain's mantle Md^
" Wrought and cfaafiTd with nnre deyictf^
'^ Studded fair with gems of priee :
" On the varied tartans beanung,
' " As, thro' night's pale rainbow gleaming,
'' Fainter now, now seen ahr,
^ Fitful shines the northern star."

I^ott's Lobd op ths Iblxb.

On the tabfe were not len than twenty tahk±
tea-pots, like Hodca Surpoosefl^ the tops atttieM
by neat chains *r several very large gdbisCs, and

174 ATTAOHMEKT OF THE KINO.

tnqn of die nme metaL There wm altogMhar m
dMpby of megnifioence and ifileiidoiir fiur bejond
what I had been led to expect At the kkg^e re-
qnesty 1 desired the tepoyB to go through their ex-i
ctdae^ whidi ga;re him great aatia&etioiu Hsfing
fully dimmrd all the points of importance relative
to the missioBt I gave the nyah a sheet of parcb^
ment, on which to tianacribe the schedule of du-
ties^ which he caused to be elegantly stamped with
jgold spots by his female staves, and his writer en-
tered the list of import and export duties at length.

The nyah was marked in his civilities to me ;
and upon mentioning my intention of sailing next
day, he said fiaelingly (pdnting to hia heart), ^ No^
'^ no^ I am not tired of yon yet; you must stay with
'^ me a few days more. Why in such haste V
There was a lode of apparent sincerity, something
expressive of kindness and attachment, which gra-
tified me extremely. I shook him eordiaUy by
the hand, and thanked him tx hie good wishes
and flattering dispontioo towaida me^ and begged
he would excuse me from remaining knger than
to-morrow afternoon.

I afterwards went to the Fangiran's at seven
o'clock, when a dinner was prepared for me in the
English style. He sent for my cook and steward^
who went ashore to assist in the ceffirnnies We
sat down with a large party at seven oTdadk to •
very excdient dinnerp consisting of bc«C gealy

SiSTERTAimiEST AT THE PANGIRAN'S. 176

dn^ks^tofwhf vegetables^ friiit» &e., served up very
neftdy ; a long table laid out well, and the whole
place lighted up with large vase lamps, and several
three-branch plated candlesticks, with large wax
candles. Here was an immense display of gold
and silver also. The old gentleman being a Mm^
sulman, I had a delicacy in putting wine upon the
table. He soon reminded me of the deficiency*
'* What !" said he, ^ Anderson, have you brought
*^ no wine with you ?" I dispatched my steward
for some Sherry, Madeira, and Elexir de Ga^nuu
The Sherry and Madeira he did not approve ol^
and still less a glass of Hodgson's ale ; but he velry
soon dispatched a pint bottle of Elexir de Ganu^
which is rather potent. I made him a present of
half a dozen of that liquor, and a few bottles of
brandy, which he b^^ed as medicine ; but fiom
what I saw, he seemed to relish the dose so w^
that I had no doubt it would be frequently repeat*
ed. This venerable looking old man acquired a
taste for these luxuries when he visited Malacca,
at the time of the expedition to Java.

Music was introduced. A young Malay girl
sung well. She was the Catalani of the place, and
had a very powerful and melodious voice. A vio^
lin and several drums composed the band. The
Fongiran is fond of collecting curioaties. He bat
several small ponds filled with fish of all kinds^
which he regularly feeds ; and he can always coon^

170 DEER HUNTING.

;► V <fi , I

maod a supply fin: hit table. He has a
of handsome and curious creeses, swords, and anna
of all sorts. He is also particular in keeping a fine
breed of game cocks. He was partial to the amnae-
Inent of cock-fighting in his youth, and used
to stake large sums ; but all these gambling pra^
tices he has abandoned. He gave me, in exdiange
for some presents, a pur of game cocks, a dret cat,
and a goat, celebrated, as he informed me, for fight-
ing. He has some fine little dogs, whidi are amaa-
ingly swift, and catch great numbers of deer. A
single dog caught one while we were with him,
which required eight men to carry it They seiae
the deer by the throat, and soon kill it

The Pangiran has an extensiye boat-building
concern, and his timber-yard was well filled with
large trees of very fine timber. He is very dear-
ous of renewing the trade in that artide, which
he has in such abundance, and of so cxeeDent a
quality.

From the tenor of the Pangiran'a convettatioiiy
I sec that another revolution is in embryo. He
seems a staunch friend of the English, and saya he
could easily make himself king in a day. AH he
wishes, he says, is to sec the English ooloura again
waving at Siack, before he quits this subhmary
scene; and he proposed writing a letter to the
honourable the governor, of which, although I toU
him I did not exactly approve. I would

FOEMEE RKVOLUTIGN. 177

ten, at his request, oonsent to be the better. He
exdaimed loudly against the rajah and datus fiur
making a treaty with the Dutch, and shrewdly
remarked, ** How can a man stand in two boats^
** or upon two horses, with one leg on each ?** He
compared the king to a young horse without a
bridle, that can neither be driven nor led. I was
of course exceedingly guarded in my replies and
frequently endeavoured to change the conversationy
as I had no authority to interfere in political con-
cerns.

A revolution took place in Siack about 20 yean
ago. Syed Ally, father of the present dneC the
Tuanko Pangiran, Tuanko Besar, and Tuaako
Long Putih, dethroned the former king, and Seyd
Ally became the sovereign. A very desperate
battle was fought at Kampar with the former kii^
who fled, and fortified that place. The Tuanko
Pangiran commanded a large fleet of prows, and
lost S80 men killed, besides an immense number
wounded. They retreated to Siack ; and fearing the
late rajah would follow up his success, and pnmie
them, Syed Ally applied to the English at Malae^
ca, and was supplied by a Mr Baker (as I under^
stood from the Pangiran), with the Englirii flag;^
which was used and hoisted r^ularly for two yeaia
and a hal^ and they fought under it After it
had been hoisted some time, Mr Baker came from
Malacca, and resided three or four montha with the

178 FEUDAL S£KT1C£!I. VI81TS.

Tmnko Puigixmii, and the flag was hauled op at
sun-ris^ and down at sun-set, every day.

The chiefs of Beebh, Panei»Kulm,Tanah Patih,
and Banca, whom I met at Siack» had cooie t» as-
sist in erecting a monument over the remania of
the hte king» the rajah exacting these feudal
services of them, as being tributaries of Siadc. It
is customary for all the states actually or nominal*
ly tributary to Siack, as fiir as Langkatt to send
once in three years, a certain number of prows and
men to Siack, to repair the fortifications, and to do
any public service that may be required. After
four or five months, if nothing pressing is gmng on,
they are sufiered to depart They receive no eom-
pensation whatever, and are oUiged to find them-
selves in provisions, &c. These chiefo complained
Utterly to me of having been kept absent many
months from their families and homes.

94th March. — Several of the chiefr came on
board this morning, and brought me presents of
fiuitt &C llie following composed the first ptrty.
Rajah Muda Beelah, Imam of KubUtOrang Kayn
Bili of Banca, shabundar of Tanah Ftatili» datu
of Rantau, and khali of Siack. The rqah of
Panei I did not see. He had left the plaee only a
flow days before, and was farther down the river, ai
Dumd, repairing his prow, which had been ran a^
ground on the sands of Merambong, near the en-
trance of the straits of TaiijongJattee. Thediicft

UKPUL8E (IF THE TEOPLE OF R£CCAN. 179

of Tanah Putih in the Rcccan informed me and
complained of the attack made upon some of the
people in tlie Rcccan, two men having been severe*,
ly wounded by the firing of the Honourable Ghh^
pany's cruizer Nautilus upon than» when» as they
said, they were carrying off small presents of fruit
to them ; but upon reference to Lieutenant Rose's
report, I find there was but too just cause for pro-
vocation. ** On the right hand bank of the river/'
says the report, «< was situated a straggling viUage^
** the inhabitants of which came off in the morning of
our arrival, in great numbers, on friendly pretencei^.
and earnestly b?gged to be admitted on board,
which was refused, excepting to a very few. They
afterwards, without the slightest provocation, en-*
^ dcavoured to cut off one of our boats that had got
'^ adrifl by the excessive rapidity of the tide.**
And, although not mentioned in the report, I have
since been informed, that one of the sepoys on board
the Nautilus was killed, and another wounded in
this affair. It is not probable they would have
been bold enough to have made any attack upon an
armed vessel like the Honourable Company's cmiier
Nautilus. I never, during the voyage, except on
one occasion, in coming down the Siack river, re*
fused permission to the natives to come on boards
and the decks were generally covered. The guards
however, was ready to resist any improper attetnptt
but of this there is little danger, if proper pr^^

180 PERSJlNTS puom pangikan.

cautions are adopted. On the other hand, it dis
courages the better disposed Malays, and excites
distrust among them, if they are not allowed to
come on board, or if, when they come on board,
they are received with suspicion.

25th March. — ^This morning the tog was so
dense, that we could not see 20 yards from the
vessel. Sent the two small boats ashore to be
caulked and repaired, and the Chinese carpenter
was employed at the Tuanko Pangiran's, cutting
and preparing musters of all the different sorts of
timber.

The Panpran, in return for some personal pre-
sents which I made him to-day, presented me with
a very beautiful kris of the sort *" Chinta Chermin
Sarri,* called Bolang Siack, which only the nobility
are allowed to wear. He showed me a very curi-
ous spear called junka kusa, much corroded by age
and use. It is a celebrated spear, and has been
used in all the battles during the last 850 years.
Many wonderful and superstitious stories are told
of it.

I had visitors all day. Three other chieft from
Tanah Putih, Buoodin Sukulimapuluh, Mahanya-
lek Muda's five sons, Che Kulu, Che Iman, Che
Lanang, Che Hassein, Che Jeman, fine ladi^
brought me presents, which were repaid by some
small trifles. The rajah sent off a buffido^ and
fruit in abundance. In short, something or other

VISIT TO THE KIKO OF 8UCK. 181

was brought on board during the whole day ; all
classes, from the highest to the lowest, making me
l^esents according to their means, by which the
crew and people were amply supplied with fruit, &c»
In the afternoon, I went ashore to the house of
the head datu ; and after waiting some time, pro-
ceeded, in company with the four chiefs, to the ra-
jah's house, where the Tuanko Panglima Besar,
and all the principal people, were again assembled.
The papers drawn out by the directions of the ra-
jah, were formally presented to me. The letter for
the honourable the governor, the rajah informed
me, should be sent off to-morrow, according to cus-
tom. He expressed his intention of paying me a
visit on board, before I sailed. After receiving the
papers, and going through some of the forms, a
band of music struck up in the court-yard, and
the rajah invited me to see fencing and dancing.
Chairs were placed outside, and we witnessed the
exhibition of fencing with two large bright swoid%
by a great number of stout athletic Malays, whose
movements were very rapid, while they made the
most hideous grimaces imaginable. There were at
least 1000 men assembled in the court-yard. Mean-
time my draughtsman, by the rajah's consent, wsp
taking the portrait of himself, the Panglima Besal^
and the datus. After these amusements, we agm
returned to the house, and sat down to an enter-
tainment prepared for us, the table loaded with %

188 KINO OF SIACK*8 VISIT.

profusion of sweetmeats, puddings, kc. in the na-
tive style, and other good things. The rajah pro-
duced some beantifnl game cocks ; but I told him
I was not partial to the amusement. I accepted,
however, a pair from him, with two spurs like knife-
blades, most murderous looking instruments, set
with silver. He took a great fancy to my violin,
which I presented to him, with complete sets ot
spare strings. We were in consequence deprived
of music during the remainder of the voyage. The
rajah is about to be married to a daughter of the
diief of Kampar, Tuanko Kassuma. He has never
been married, but has many concubines and chil-
dren. A son of the Pangiran, Tuanko Mony, re-
sides at Kampar.

26th March. — I have been detained two days
longer than I expected, lliis morning was oocq*
pied in preparing the vessel for our departure, and
receiving farewell visits of ceremony from all the
principal chiefs of Siack. The cabin was covered
with carpets, the seats with scarlet cloth, aU the
people neatly dressed, and we made as good an ap-
pearance as possible, considering the confined and
crowded state of the vessel. At nine o*clodc, the
four datus came on board, and were received with
due honours, and a salute of five gtms. Precisely
at noon, the rajah sent notice of his approach, and
he shortly aftenvards came on board. A huge le^
|inue of well dressed people completely covered thp

I .

PIt£S£NT TO TH£ KINCk 183

decks. His boat was pulled by fourteen oars, with
a yellow flag (the emblem of royalty), a silk awn-
ing, and a number of large umbrellas* Four of his
attendants were dressed in scarlet broad doth;
four others with rich gold scarfs over their shoul-
ders, with the swords of state in their hands. An*
other, richly attired, bore a large gold betel box,
and another the handsome gold shield set with
diamonds.

The king was even more splendidly habited than
I had yet seen him. He was in &ct like one
beautiful sheet of embossed gold. He was saluted
with nine guns, and remained a full hour, amusing
himself with pictures and books. I showed him a
Malay Bible, for which he expressed a desire, and I
gave it to him, writing on the title page, agreeably
to his request, that it was given to him as a token
of friendship. He particularly desired me to re-
member that the Dutch had invited him twice on
board their vessel ; but he refused, and said to me,
** because I have a great friendship f(nr Mr An-
** derson, and respect for the English, I have come
^' to see you on board."

About half an hour after returning ashore, the
letter was sent on board, indosed, as usual, in a yel-
low nlk bag ; a small parcel in yellow doth, and a
slave boy. The latter I oould not dedine receivi-
ing ; and I therefore made the little follow as oomt-
fcatUbh M possible, knowing he .would be cmaott-

itti l a muwi or bbuvering a i^sttul

to enstoin, immediately on his ar^
at Pinan^ arbere his condition would be much
than at Siack. The letter was borne on a
aUrar salver, and a large umbrella over it, with the
fimr attendants who accompanied the rajah. He
had previously sent me notice to prepare a salato
of nine guns and a few rounds of musketry, on its
reaching the vessel ; and on its leaving the shores a
salute of nine guns was fired from his guns. Be-
ing minute in complying with all their particnlir
oeremanies, I received the letter at the gangway,
all the escort being drawn up, and the drum beat*
ing. A salute of nine guns and three rounds of
musketry were then fired ; and as the people step-
ped into their boat, the foresail was loosed, the an-
chor instantly hove up, and a strong tide and
gentle breeze swept us round the first reach, when
we were out of sight in a few minutes.

I had gone ashore at ten o'clock to see my old
iiiend the Pangiran, who d.livered me two lettei%
one for the honourable the governor of Pinang,
and the other for Sir Stamford Rafiies, whidi I
forwarded from Malacca. The English at Pinang,
and the English at Singapore, are of course the
same to him, as their interests are alike. He gave
me 16 different musters of wood for ship^bniUing;
and other useful purposes. He sent me off also
half a bufialo. He had just killed two for a grand
fioast, on the occasion of his son's undergoing a

BAD CHiiaAarKIl of XH£ PAJK6LIMA BESAli. 189

tain Mussulman ceremony, which was to take plaos
to-day. My friend Sheck AbduUa sent me also
a bu^o, so that the decks were covered with
meat. The young buffaloes are very tender. After
the vessel had got a little way down the river, a
boat came off, loaded with dried rice, e^s, pine« .
apples, cocoaruuts, and plantains. The tops, and
every creek and comer of the vessel, were filled. I
had given Tuanko Syed a little calomel, which afr
£>rded him relief, and he thus evinced his gratir
tude. They pursued us, indeed, with civilities to
the last.

The reception I met with at this place has made
au impression upon my mind which will not eamly be
effaced. I never met anywhere with a more hearty
welcome, all the people vying with each other in
their kindly offices. How different was the treat-
ment I actually experienced, compared with what I
anticipated. I expected to meet with a savage
•race of pirates, who would receive me with jea-
lousy and distrust. I must describe them, how-
ever, as I found them, hospitable and generous.

This general good character is of course liable to
.some exceptions. The Fanglima Besar bears a
•most infamous character. He was lately guilty of
a most atrocious act (only 20 days ago), in waq-
tonly stabbing the China captain at Bukit Batu,
where the Chinese residents are numerous. Some
time ago also, be put tibe Biiidahara to death. Qe

186 BAD CHAKACr£ll OF TUANKO LONG.

18 a desperate cunning looking fellow, about 38,
always elegantly dressed. My Malay pilot, who
knows him well, and has often been at Siack, saya
the Panglima Besar has killed so many men, that
their eyes alone would fill a chupah measure ; thus
describing, in his fanciful way, the extent of this
man's murders. He kills a man for the most trif*
ling provocation, and has acquired so much power
in the place, that even the king dare not remon-
strate. A few years ago he was a daring pirate, and
infested the straits; but on one occarion, some
gunpowder exploding during the action, he was ae»
verely hurt. He barely escaped with his lifie^ and
made an oath that he would not go to sea again.

Tuanko Long Putih, whom I have before men*
tioned, is another very bad character. One of the
crew of the Jessy gave me a great deal of infonna*
tion, which confirmed me in the belief of his having
been a noted pirate. Near us lay a laige vesMl
called a top, belonging to Tuanko Long, which he
captured a few years ago, from some Chinese b^
longing to Java. The vessel was loaded with rice,
and fell into Tuanko Long's hands in the Straita
of Drion, after a hard fou^t action ; and soon al^
tor he had captured a brig, which happened to
ground in these straits. One of his Panglimaa
and two other people were killed in the engagi^
ment, and he, in return, coolly butchered the Chi-
nese noqucdah, writer, and another man, aA«

PROGRESS DOWN THE SIACK RIVER. 187

their arrival at Siack, at the old fort. The whole
crew, 22 in number, were kept some time in sla*
very, but by degrees made their escape in small
boats to Malacca.

&7th March. — My Chinese painter was a source
of great amusement to the chiefs ; and although
the Malays generally have an aversion to see their
own portraits, the king and the datus not only
consented to sit for their pictures, but were pleased
with them, and even allowed me to make drawings
of whatever I chose, without the least jealousy or
interruption. We dropped down about SO miles
with the first tide, and during the night. We
were much annoyed with & large fly, about the size
of a bee, which were numerous in the day time,
iand inflict a painful bite.

28th March. — We passed Pulo Sabon, a small
island in the river, near Pulo Gantong, early this
morning, the strong tide sweeping us down with
alarming velocity. We were several times under
great difficulty, from the indraught of some small
rivers, and the tide setting us into the bays. We
left the mouth of the Slack river at midnight with
a fine breeze, which carried us well down the straits
of Tanjong Jattee.

29<A March. — We were opposite Bukit Batu
at day-light this morning. I sent a boat on shore,
which brought off a quantity of excellent fish,
palled tinging, a long blueish fish, like a mackerel.

188 CROSSING THE ST&AITS TO MALACCA.

and another about 14 inches long, the roes of
which, called telm trobo, are greatly cddbrated,
and form one of the principal staple ooramodities
of Siack. To-day upwards of 300 smsU canoes
left Bukit Batu for the fishing ground at the
mouth of the straits.

SOth March. — ^We made little progress all day.
During the night, the wind blew almost a hurricane^
and we were at anchor opposite the dangerous
sands of Merambong, with the mnd and tide set-
ting strong down to it. A very heavy swell at night.

Slst March. — Still blowing very hard. We
beat across the straits however, and fetched a little
to the southward of Cape Rachado. The wretch-
ed state of health of one of the gunners, and seve-
ral of the people, rendered it necessary to touda
again at Malacca for medical assistance.

1^/ ApriL — Wc anchored last night 15 miles
to the northward of Malacca. Blowing exoesnve-
ly hard all night. Landed at Malacca at noon.
The accommodation boat being quite decayed* her
beams rotten, and full of white ants, her planks
started in several places, and her stem split down*
I transferred her to Mr Harrington, a Britiah
merchant at that place, and desired him to get her
sold on account of government. I purchased
another large and very handsome boat from Mr
Kraal, for SOO Spanish dollars, which will be
fill for other public purposes.

ARRIVAL AT SALEN60RE. 189

2d Aprd. — At Malacca.

3(/ April. — Left Malacca this morning. This
place indeed had a most deserted appearance.
There was only a small junk in the roads, and not
another vessel of any description. Anchored in
the evening close to the Bambeck Shoal.

Uh April. — Opposite Parcelar hill this morn-
ing, and proceeded into the straits of Colong, an-
choring in the evening opposite the entrance of
Colong river. This is a celebrated place for pi-
rates. We saw several prows hovering about.

5th April — ^Weighed at day-break, and at noon
anchored in Salengore roads, about five miles from
the shore. Saluted the fort with seven guns. I
immediately went on shore with the letter and
some presents, but the rajah was absent, having
lately proceeded with a large fleet of prows and
strong force, to attack the Siamese at Perak. Ra-
jah Usuh, his son, was in charge. With him I
was well acquainted on my former mission. He
stated that his father had been completely victo-
rious ; the Siamese had either fled or been put to
death, and the king of Perak was restored to his
former condition.

As he represented the country, however, to be
in a state of conunotion, and the trade as com-
pletely at a stand, I did not think it proper or
necessary to touch at Perak. Besides, the provi-
sions were nearly expended, and the period pre^

190 C*LOSE or THK MISSION.

scribed for my return almost expired. Salengorc
hill has an inviting appearance at a distance. The
large hill, and the two smaller ones dose to the
sea, are well fortified with an immense number of
cannon. I suppose there are not less than 200,
some with broken carriages, some without any*
There may be about 50, however, fit for use;
some ci a prodigious size, brass ordnance, whidi
belonged to the Dutch, when that nation had a
factory on Salengore hill. The old fort is in
ruins. The king resides in it. The Salengore
people expected an attack from the Siamese, for
which they were fully prepared, being resdved to
make a most vigorous resistance.

Returning to the brig, we had a very severe
squall, and were driven down the coast a conai*
derable distance. The brig weighed, and pidced
us up* just as it was getting dark. Made all sail
for Pinang, which we reached on the evening of
the 9th of April, having been absent exactly
three months. Only one casualty happeaed daring
the voyage, and not a single accident of any kind ;
and I had occasion to punish only two meo slightly^
for sleeping during their watch. Though we eneoira-
tered some severe weather, and the navigation in
some parts vras extremely difficult, the veMcl did
not toodi the ground, lose a spar, or split a nQ ;
and in all these points, I may with truth mf
that no expedition was ever brought to a tenniii»»
tion under more happy circumstances.

- -:3

HISTORY

AND

DESCRIPTION

OF THE

EAST COAST OF SUMATRA,

BETWEEN DIAMOND POINT AND SIACK.

Situation. — ^That portion of the large and fer-
tile island of Sumatra, or (as known to the natives),
Pulo Percha, comprised within the range of my in-
quiries, and the subject of description in the fol-
lowing pages, is situated between Diamond Point
or Jambu Ayer, in 5** 16' 32" north latitude, 97"
SO' 49'' east longitude, and Siack river, the mouth
of which is, according to a late observation, in l""
SO' north latitude, and 102'' 10' east longitude,
comprehending an extensive track of coast, ferti-
lized by innumerable rivers, and possessing a large
population of various races of people, differing in
languages and manners ; the whole country abound-
ing with the most valuable productions of the east.

l:W HISTOUY AM) ;)ESCUIP'riON OF THE

and inferior to none in the bountiful indulgences
and gids of nature. I'here is not a more marked
variety and dissimilarity in the products of the se-
veral states in this extensive track, than there is
in the physical and moral condition, habits, and
customs of the numerous tribes which inhabit it.
Many of the states have been settled for centuries,
and have risen to power and an advanced state of
civilization : others, which had attained the sum-
mit of prosperity, and were enjoying the benefits of
a most extensive commerce, have, in the lapse of
ages, and under changes of systems and govern-
ments, been gradually retrograding, and their
power and authority is much circumscribed* There
are others again of recent formation, and where
government and character have not arrived at that
stability, consistency, and uniformity, which we
find in the more anciently established kingdoms.
Some of the states were formed by emigrants from
the powerful empire of Menangkabau ; others by
shipwrecked mariners from the coasts of Malabar
and Coromandel ; by settlers from Achecn, Jari,
Borneo, Celebes, Tringanu, and other ports on the
Malayan peninsula, Ilhio, I^ingin, and varioiis
other places ; many of whom have perhaps been
associated together as piratical adventurers, and
have derived irom the produce of their former bar*
barous avocations, the means of founding a floa«
rishing kingdom. Great distinctions of manners

KAST COAST OF SUMATRA. 193

and habits, and great eotruptimis of the primi-
tive language, roust be the consequence of such
a motley assemblage of different tribes ; and gene-
rations must pass away ere this incongruous mix«
ture of manners and language could be moulded
into one harmonious system. I); would be in vain,
therefore, and impossible, for me to convey a oor«
rect notion of the state of the east coast of Suma*'
tra by a general description ; and I shall therefcnr^,
after giving a slight sketch of the aspect of the
coast, the seasons, tides, inundations, rivers, lakes;)
mountains, &c. proceed to a survey of all the states
in regular succession, and endeavour to give as ae^
curate and feithftil an account of the history, po«
pulation, commerce, manufactures, agriculture and
husbandry, natural history and antiquities, produc*
tions, and other objects of interest, as either actual
observation, or information on which I can place
rdiance, may enable me to supply. A very nice
or particular arrangement in a desultory descrip-
tion of this sort, is attended with great difficulty^
and I shall not attempt it J am sensible thai
there are many omissions, and posatUy some errors {
but it were unreasonable to expect the contrary;
considering not only the limited period'of iny itt*
qniries, but also the excessive exertion attendant
upon the superintendance and management of the
various and complicated details of the mission.
ScA Coast. — This coasts xvliieb forms iih^ princi-

IM nisrouv AND nr.si-uii'TiuN ay tiik

pal part of the western side of the Straits of Ma^
lacea* is, with few exceptions, very shallow. The
numeroiiB large rivers which are continually rolling
down immense quantities of sand, and the extreme
velocitv of some of them, cause the formation of
innnnirrahle sand-luniks and shoals along the whole
extent of the coast, within several miles of which,
vessels of a small size only can approach. These
shoals extend out generally from three to ten
miles, which renders the* navigation extremely
dangerous.

Aspect and Fare of the Countrt/. — ^The few
prominent landmarks, and tlie general level and
uniform appearance of the shore, when seen at a
■hort distance, adds materially to the difficulty of
the navigator in ascertaining his position. The
whole of the coast, with some inconsiderable excep-
tions, is low and swampy, the mangrove trees
growing to the water s edge. In the distance arc
aeen lofty ridges of mountains, with intervening
ranges of smaller height, gradually declining to-
wards the coast, which, from the base of the hillt,
becomes an inclined plain of gentle declivity towards
the sea. It may be said of the east coast of Sumatra,
as of the interior and southern provinces of Java,
that* ** from the mountainous character of the oowi-

• lUffln' Huloiy of Jm, Vol. I. pp. 20. mnd 21.

EAST COAST OF SUMATRA. IW

'^ try, it may be reckoned amongst the modt roinaii<'
** tic and h%hly diversified in the world ; unitii^.
'' ^ the rich and magnificent scenery which wav-^
'* ing forests, never failing streams, and constant
** verdure, can present ; heightened by a pure at^.
^'mosphere, and the glowing tints of a tropical
'' sun«" To the northward of Batubara, the
breadth of the level country may be stated at from
50 to 100 miles, and from thence to Siack, the
average width may be 140 miles.

Harbours.^^lihere are no safe or convenient
harbours on this coast, the usual distance of anchoret
age being aboat six miles from the shore. There
are very feit of the rivers which vessels drawing
more than seven or eight feet can enter, on account
of the bars and sand-banks at the mouths Vesseb
lying outside are therefore much exposed to the
weather,, and the strong north-westers which blow
with such impetuous fury.

Seasons and Winds. — ** The seasons in all the
*' countries situated within about ten degrees o£^
'' the equator," (says the same excellent author
above quoted) *' agree in this, that as one eternal
** summer prevails, they are not distinguished by
" hot and cold, but as wet and dry.'** During the
Houth-west monsoon^ which commences in May, tbef

• lUffleB' History of Java, VoL I. p. 29.

196 HI8TOET AND DE8CEIPT10N OF THK

ivMther 18 generally dry ; and daring the north-'
east monsoon, whidi aeto in in October, it is un-
settled and rainy. The heaviest rains are in the
months of Oetober, November, December, and part
of January. The regularity of the monsoons is in-
teirupted by the lofty chains of mountains, both
M the island of Sumatra and the Malayan penin-
aok; and hence the winds on the east coast, and in
the straits generaUy, are variable and unsteady.
It not unfirequently blows hard from the south-
ward, or south-east, for many days at a time, du-
ring the south-west monsoon. The strong north-
me&ters are most prevalent shortly after the settii^
in of the north-east monsoon. These blow IfHftt
generally in the month of November. The sama-
tras or violent squalls, which mariners in these
straits dread so much, are well known. They pre-
vail chiefly during the south-west monsoon, llian-
der, lightning, and torrents of rain, are their usnal
aoeompaniments. They are more dangerous than
other squalls, from the rapidity of their approadi.
The north-westers are known by a dark lowring
appearance in the horizon. The rice crops aie n-
g^idated by the monsoons, and will be desonbed
nnder the head of AgricuUure.

WMrhcinds. — ^Whirlwinds are not uncommon.
At Sirdang this year, there was a very violent
whirlwind at Kallambir, which destroyed many
houses, carrying the wood and other materiala into

lEAST CQAiT OF fiOTMATEA. M7

Jlie air, throwing doim e&cosrnnt and other trees^
jtearing them up by the roots, and doing other
serious damage.

Waterspouis. — ^Water-spouts are extremdy
|xrevalent in this quarter. The natives usually fire
guns or muskets when they seem to approach dose.

Inundations. — During the ndny season, a great
part of the low country is frequmtly inundated,
which adds so materially to the fertility of the soiL
vAt DeUi, during the past year, there were no less
than eight inundations. Thrice their duration was
^ight days each, and the several other times two
4ind three days. All the villages near the sea were
almost under water ; and though some of them ate
jntuated on pretty high groimd, the water rose to
juch a height, that the alligators carried away the
poultry, &c from under the houses. In former
years, the inimdations have seldom been of more
frequent occurrence than thrice a year.

New firmed Land. — The sea has evidently re-
ceded very much during the last few centuries ; and
there is no doubt, that the greater part of that
coast is of alluvial fonnation. At Delli, according
to the tradition of the natives, the sea was once ifa
high as Pulo Gorab, about 30 miles up 4)hat river,
and at Serantau, 15 miles up the Assahan river,
not more than 200 years ago.

SknL — ^The sml, which, as I have observed before,
is undoubtedly i£ alluvial fimniitioB, is peouliaiijr

IW HI8TOBY AND DEBCBIPTIOX OF THE

rich, and every vegetable aubttaiiee thrivei moit
hDmriantly. At Delli, Langluit, and Bnla China,
it 18 exceedingly rich, being a black mould, in aome
places eight and ten feet deep, over a atraton of
atiff white day, and a substratum of sand and
gravel. Towards Assahan it is not so good. As
you advance towards the mountains, it is compos-
ed of red earth and sand, intermixed with frag-
ments of granite and freestone.

Air and CUmate.-^The temperature is by no
means unpleasant The roomings and evenings
are generally pleasantly cool, the thermometer
imnging at sun-rise at from 70 to 75 degrees in the
low country, and seldom exceeding 87 degrees in
the middle of the day. The land and sea breens^
which here, as in other countries between the tro-
pics, blow regularly a certain number of hours from
the land during the night, and sea during the day,
refresh the air, and render the climate not dia-
agreeably warm.

/7€tc#.— Dews are particulariy heavy, as may be
sxpected in such a SBampy country, abounding with
rivers. It is very dangerous to sleep exp osed to
these dews, as they occarion fever and ague.

Fcgs.'^The fogs are extremely dense a little
way inland. Some parts of the coast are reckoned
unhealthy, and fever and agues are prevalent.
Assahan and Batubara, at both of whidi places
^ dews and fogs are particulariy heavy, are oooi

lAST COAST OF SUMATRA. J»

sidered the most unliealthy spots, as well from that
cause, as from the quantity of marshy ground and
stagnant water near the sea.

JEpidemics. — The country has not been afflicted
with any epidemic diseases during the recollection
of the inhabitants, till a few years ago, when the
cholera morbus, which committed such dreadful
ravages throughout India, visited some of the states
partially. The mortality was not so great as
might have been expected in so low and swampy a
country.

Famine. — Famine, in a country like this, is al-
most impossible, the woods yielding such an infinite
.variety of nutritious trees, plants, and esculent ve-
getables; although occasional failures in the rioe
crops do sometimes occur, from excessive drought.

JEarthqimkes. — There have been no severe earth-
quakes in the recollection of the oldest inhabitants.
Occasionally slight shocks are felt, but unattended
with any serious consequences. There is a tradi-
tion, however, of an engagement many centuries
ago, between the two mountains Sebaya and Sena-
bun, at which period some part (^ them fell into
the valley ; which superstitious tale has probaUy
arisen from some report of an earthquake, or pos-
,Hbly volcanic eruption.

Rivers. — No country on the globe can exceed,
and few, I believe, equal this in the . number of
streams which meander through it. The rivers

MO iiisTUBar AMD Dcacurrioii of tuk

«e dfanort in uu mer a hlc^ md man j of tfacm loid
iBto each other by nnmenma channeh in the into
nor. It is indeed impoesible to cooeeife any conn-
itf poMewed of gfeater eonvenieneei^ in mpoet to
filter cmnmnnication between the oevcnd statea*
The Reocan is nnquestionaUy the flnt in paint of
aiagnitude; and from it issue many large itnaa^
#r rather it is fcrmed of a collection of oimsidemble
ssTeBB. The Siack, though not so wide as many of
4he otficrB, ranks first in all other respects, as being
the deepest, most free firom obstructions, and the
Aannd of conTeyance for the most valuable and
«Ltensive commodities and commeice. The Assa-
•hant Ijangkaty Soln China, Langksap SivchoM^
Bstttbara, Kwaloo, Beelah, Fsnei» and Knbn* are
att considerable rivers; and these are many othew
nearly as laige, but not so much finsqueated.

Aw.— The navigation of some of these rivers is
vendcnd very difficult and unsafe to any vessdsex-
espt those of the country, peculiariy constructed fer
the purpose^ by a strong bore, whidi carries eveqr
tfamg befeee it, and overwhelms small vesseb that
may jiot be prepared to encounter it Thegrsatset
knes are in the Banca and Tanah PntSi riaen^ap
the Keeeaa; also at Kwaloo, Beelah, I^nci» and
Kubu. All the other rivers are exea^ ftom k,
with the exception of some of the small sliaains
acar these.

Tida.— The rise and fiiU of the tide is asty dif*

£AST COAST OF SUMATSA.

Seacent at the several places on the ooest At liang^
Jut» DdU, Setahara, Assaium, and moat of iim
•livers in that quarter, the rise and &11 is fiom
^ght to^ten feet; at Siack it is twelye feety and
in the Reccan twenty-^six feet

^Lakes^^Mr Marsden, in his Historjr of Sorair
tra, mentions a lake whidi has never been visited
<by Europeans.* ** One of great extent, hnt unaa-
"^^ certained situation, in the Batta oountiy.'* And
lie adds, ** It is much to be r^^retted, that the
** situation of so important a feature in the geo-
*^ graphy of the island, should be at this day the
^ subject of uncertain conjecture.** And he after*
^axds mentions, that f ^ It is said in a Dutch ma»
^ nuscript, that in three days' navigation, above the
^ town of Bingkel, you come to a great lake, the
^ extent of which is unknown." It aflfords me
gratification to be enabled to give some aocomt of
this great lake, which is situated betwe^i the
mountains Sebaya and Sukanalu. It m called
^ Laut Ay^ Tawar," or the fresh-water aea. Then
is a communication vHith this lid^e from Aes^haa,
iiangkat, and Delli; viz. from Bendar Pulo^ n
^ace four days^ journey by water from the month
^ the Assahan river ; the distance overland to the

* History of Sumatra^ page 14.

t
)<

aOS HISTOUY AND DESC'KimoN OF THF

lake is three days' joiirncy ; from Kampong Kaps*
la Sungei» three days by water up the T .mglff ^
the distance is six days; and from Meidao, two
days' sail up the Ddli, it is five days by land. It
must be of very great extent, as it is a day's nil
across with a good breeze, the shore not bong vi-
sible from the opposite side. The bordeit of the
lake are reported to be in a high state q[ cultivft-
tion. There is an island in the centre of it, wheie
the edible birds' nests are procured* There are
numerous villages, and an immense population of
Battas, on its banks. Boats of a oonstdenUe aiie
navigate the lake, some of tliem having at many m
fifty men in each. They are pirates, and plunder
each other, carrying off the children, and idling
them as slaves. It is bounded on the northwavd
by the Batta state Seantar, to the east by Tubbo^
<m the south by Tinging, and to the westward by
Purbola and Pangaloran.

Mountains. — The loftiest of that extensive ridge
which runs nearly parallel with the coast, are 6n*
nong Sebaya, Senabun, and Sukanaln, six dayiT
journey from DcUi. These mountains are qaite
visible in a clear day from the sea, and i^ipear to
be of an amazing height. The next in importinao
are Gunong Kuali, Uclerang, Batubarang, Liang
Malas, Gajah, and Purbesi, to the southward of
t]ie others ; also Gunong Tubba, and Menow, in
the interior of Assalian, all of great height Hie

£A6T COAST OF SUMAT&A. SIS

IBOuntainB of Menangkabau, inland of Siack^
may also be mentioned. As none <^ than wei0
visited by me, or have ever been approached by
£ur<q)eaBs on the east side, it, would be in vaifi
^attempting to for^l any correct idea of their> eleva*-
tion, either from their aspect at a disti^nee, or from
the report of natives, who are ever prone to exag-
g^ation, wd whose observation is sejidom (correct
or precise upon points of this sort.

Mineral Productions. — There is a great var
riety of mineral productions in these mountaino,
well worth the research of the naturalist. Those
best known, however, are tin, of which the ore i$
most abundant. The natives do not smelt it, from
not' having a knowledge of the process^ In the in^
terior of Delli, up Sungei Siput and Sungei Sin-
kar, large masses are found. In the interior of Sii^
dang also, it is abundant; and up the Mandow
river at Siack, it is equally abundant. The couur
try has long been celebrated for its valuable and
productive gold mines. From Siack alone, in focr
jner years, not less Uian three peculs of gold were
;annually exported,, the produce of the several mined
in the Menangkabau kingdom ; and small quantir
^s are found up most of the smaller rivers.

Sulphur. — Sulphur is procured from the mouiih
tarns in the interior of Delli, and at some other
places, which proves that these mountains are formv
|d jojf vplc^nic materials, and confirms my (h^rv.

804 HISTORY AND DKSCKIPriON OF THE

that there must have been a volcanie et uplkm i
the Sebaya and Senabnn range.

QranUe and FreetUme. — ^l%e hillfl aai
pits €{ the low ocmntrj aboond with^ and aie
^ked duefly eomposed cf Uaek and while gnaMt,
mi irfike fre e stone,

Piincipal Productions . Sca ree l y any part of
)the haUtaUe globe surpasses the east eoast of B»
matra in the yariety and ndne rf its natord pm-
jductions. The foOowing maybe ennmerated as
•the principal articles of export oomniefeet goUp
camphor, ivory, wax, pepper, blade and while;
bei^amin, dnnamon, gambir, rattans^ sniphur^ to-
Inwco, lignum, aloes, dye-woods, ebony, a ?ast varie-
ly of ship-timber, the Iju rope for caUes^ fth-nei^
ahark's fins, canes, mats, pnlse of Tarions aorts^
tiee, dragon's blood, rilk cloths, and hon es. Be>
rides these, are many artides of minor nine, prfn*
dpally for the consumption of the inhabitants.

Articles of Import Commcrccj-^The co Mump >
tion of European manufactures, and those af
Western India, China, &c. is limited odIj by tke
means to purchase ; for the natives of tUs
-seem to have no prejudices whatever ta
use. On the contrary, there is a daily ini
iaste for a variety of goods, which have ftoadtteir
way into their markets only during the ftw last
years, mnce the great reduction in Ae prieeadf
•most British commodities, not so mudi owin^ aa

£Ji8T COAST OF SUMATRA.

tbwrjusU genemlly ropppse^ to tbe •pening of tbe^
free trade, as to the general peaee in Europe^ antl
the reduced price of our mani^tures. The tin*
p^rts inte the ports on the east coast of Sinnatn^
are aknost too numerous to detail,^ and consUt of
the numufSEictures and produce of Europe the Ma-
hbar and Coiomandel coasts, Surat, Bengal, Pe«'
goe, and Siam, Chinap Celebes^ Jaw, Tibganii,
Arabia, and many other places. The principal of
these I shall arrange under their different heads,
which will give a correct view of the trader now'
n^^dly and daily increasing.
. From Europe, the chief artides are cbintaes of
a light pattern, principally white cloths, via. MaiU-
dapollam imitation, Irish shirting, muslins, and
cambrics ; scarlet broad-doth, handkerchief, mus-
kets, sabres, gunpowder, gold and silver thread,
iron, nails, steel, blunderbusses^ iron or brass
swivels, looking-glasses, brasa^wire, lead, &c

From the Malabar and Coromadd coasts, salt^
doths, vis^ chelopans, murchs, shecartums, blue
and white muiehs^ brown doth^ kalamkariesy dia»
wals, Mudideband^^ Arcot, and other diiatMi,
Kasumba kling for dydng, &c

From Surat, the fine silk (^ths called kinoobs,
^V^f^Vft^ silk and cotton, Surat ditntz. . .

From Bengal^ the grand staple opkon,. of ^dtfok
the consumption is very eonsidenible^ adtpebn^

9M IlISTdRY AND DESCRfPTIOK OK tHE

baftaes, and a variety of other white elothi» taflm--
taei, carpets»er rugs.

Fiom P^^ue, stick kc

From Sinm^ ftick la^ qualliea^ sugar, mgar-
candy.

From China, plain and flonrered rilka, raw silka,>
alum, coarae and fine china-waie, eonsiating of
cups, plates* and dishes, silk-handkenhiefs, braas-
pUtes, gold and silver thread, tea, he

From Celdies, the Buggcse sarongs and sera*
wids, in such general use amongst the Af alays.

From Java, salt, brass-stands called talanUt
brass-plates, scree-boxes, cooking-pots, tobacco,

aadeoflfiee.

From Tringanu, rich gold wrought doths;

From Achcen, a variety of silk and eotton cloths.

From Palembang, rich gold wrought doths^
saree-stands of wood, fitted up with brass^boxes^-
for the manufacture of which that place is cele-
brated.

From Salengore and Pcrak, tin fiir sbot^

From Arabia, dates, rose-water, &e.

From Ceylon, precious stones for rings and ar-
naments.

Besides a vast quantity of diflTerent articiea of
iron-mongery manufactured by the Chinese Uaek^
smiths at Pinang, Malacca, and Singapore^ via»
hoea, long spades, nails, parangs, hatchets, ehaias^

KAMI' COAST Ob' StTMATRA. 289

common locks, bolts^ binges; dso of tin*war6^ as*
lamps, dishes, drinking^pots, &c. Most of the
above articles are purchased by the traders wha-
bring the p]|:oduce to the three before-mentioned
ports, and are but seldom sent as adventures by
die resident merchants of these places. There is
not a doubt that the demand for European goode
is daily increasing in this country, as it was du*
ring the last few years throughout the Indian ar*«
chipelago; and nothing is wanted but the removal
of certain obstructions in the mode of collecting?'
the duties, which have been already taken into due
consideration at Pinang, to render the sale of £u«*
ropean manufactures of a large annual amount at Pk
nang, to the traders from the east coast of Sumatra.
Papulatiofi. — Mr Malthus asserts, and with
truth, that* ** the positive checks to population
** are extremely various, and include every cause,*
*•* whether arising from vice or misery, which in
•* any way contribute to shorten the natural dura-
^ tion of human life. Under this head, therefese,-
^ may be enumerated aU unwhole^me occupatioB8,r
** severe labour, and exposure to the season^ esc-
** treme poverty, bad nursing of children, greatc
*^ towns, excesses of all kinds, the whole train <^
^ common diseases and epidemics, wars, plagues^*

* Malthtt« on Population, Vol. I. p. 31.

HISTOEY AND OS8CBIPTION OP THE

« and tmmtr In tke countrict I vkiledt t^f i£
ajp oi tlwtt checkii and aamiedly none of tboia
eaoMt whidi ate styled Uie {NreveEtire diadu^ havv
aaj cnatence* A Malay docs not pcmit hit idaaa
ta waadmr into fiiturity, or to tho cooaeqiieBeea of
hatraiig a fiunily bafofe be liaa piondad t«)o measa
fiar tlwii aufport He it a perfect ehild of natmb
aad hea n# tlKMi|^ Hk tho emirow. Theaa aio
liEt ttm ohrtadet in the way of hia lbUo9iB|f the
hart of hb JneKnationa. He does not addiet hisi-
aJf to miw hokanm e occupati o na ; their labonr and
uMnpationi aie by no meant eefcro; epideouae aaa-
of very nnfiequent ooeurrenoe; frinino ia not
known ; on the contrary, the meant of tnhtittcnco
ate abundant* and caty to be procnred; wan^-

thongh fiDequent» are not tanguinary ; and yet then
ia not that abundant pqpulatiim which one might
eipect to find under tudi a favoumbla ttate of dr-
oomttaneet; fiar it it teldom indeed that a woma»
be a i a mora than tix childrai* Tho paematnr^
union of the aexei. and* the early dacqr of finaal*
ttaength inr thia diniate» ain no doubt tiw pantipal
canttt of thetmali populationt comparad with th»
natural adrantaget of Uie country towaida the pnK
pagation of the human tpecicai Amonyt tho vioaa
wUA may be termed poaitivo chedub I ihanid \m
inclined to reckon the extenti?e ute of that pcni*
ciout drug opium, at the prindpil $ fiar I remark*
ed at trroal placet I vitited^ that whtm the

' tAST tOk^f OP SUMATttA. ^ iMi

Mmption <^ that in^briatitig and en^Miiig ivH^
Btmce was greatest, there were fewer children thatt
at other places where the inhabitants were mot^
sober and abstemious in their habits^ This^obiM^
iMitioB first struck me particularly at Sifdang;
where the inhabitatits are remarkable for th^ iM^
biiet^, and do not use opium; The vifiages^WeW
swarming with children. The population of Hm
east coast of Sumatra, however, is, from all the tt^
counts I' could obtain, at present rery numenmsj
asaed' certainly upon the increase ; and as the eultiN
iwtion of dhe soil has been more attenc^ to (^ Iftte
yMrs than formerly, the increased commenitf wffl
€h»w numbers of traders and seafanng pMplaifrM$
the adjoining countries, many of whom will itoaivyj;
a»d no doubt takjS up their abode there. MostlMkii-
kfy« who can afford it, if they take up their resideffioe
for several ftKmths ^ any of the ports as tradef*;
marry, and not uinlrequently thereby obtain impMti^
ant advantages in the way of trade, and ettmpCion
finun duties and otbev charges, if tbey beeom^^aHiMi
totthe families of respectaUe chiefs^ or menr in ^pblrcn
l!he principal paitof theiiihidiita»tsoiitfae s8a«H0t
are^descended from emigrants from Menirttgkahwn;
Imt there are also desoendanta ofr Mahhat^rnpHj
Javanese, Bi^gese, Aehenese, Chinles^.^i&glmi^
people, ftc ; and in the intaior' tlKte ic^a-vastimic
riety of trU)es of Battas, differing, iftperemilifp^
pearancer di«%' aadhaUts^ ^Mi a(few)iaUhf0aider

SIO HISTOEY AND D£8CRlPTION OF THE

ia the Siick country, very little remored, ui pout
of civiliiation, above their compaoionB the moukejo
or the orang utan of Borneo. Next to £onumg m
oonrect estimate of the revenuei q£ the aevenl
states^ any conjecture relative to the exact ok pn^
baUe number of inhabitants in
luknown a track, must be very Vi
fiMstory. I have, however, taken some paina to col*
kct the best informatiMi I could procure on thia
fubject ; and making ample aUowanoe finr the
gerated statements of the Malays^ vrho an
liable to magnify, I am disposed to tUnkt that
950,000 inhabitants is a moderate estiinate of tha
popuktMn on the east side of the lofty lUge of
mountains before described, and between DianuNMl
Point and Siack, with its tributary and dapendsnt
states on either side. The stateasenla of WMiy tf
the Malay chiefs were fiur beyond tUa auBdier, and
I have therefore taken the mediwn of aevamL

Eligibk SUuathMjbr Settlements, amd IkOek
and English Bdicy^^Hhen are
on tluB ooast well adapted for the
toricB nr estaUishmenta fiir the pnasotion
mevee. Siack, in all respects, stands prominssit
tiionchest and most populous conntryt aa
centrally- situated, as possessing a sovomgn
vity over the others, and having a nohk avn
vigaUe finr vesseh of any sLse. DeDt nnhi
in imfortance,' at irinch pkee diem

£AST coast of SUMATEiu

giUe sitiiati(m8 for faoteies ; the cotmftarjr ia feeu^:
IvBsly fertils ; the inhahitaiitflt who hiye lodg eai^
tied on an extenmre and Ittecative comfliorcey aw^
more dvilbed than at most of the other porta ; tiie
populatioii in the interiiH*, whoee wants muat be
BopfHed, is nnmerous ; and the river ia navigiddc!
£x veaseb of consideraUe burden. The chief iar
ako well disposed towards the Britisb gofrernnmit^
Next to DeUii Vjong Damnlar, at the niouth of
the Langkat river, may be mentioned. Thii^
would Qommand the whole trade of that Goua^^
and the minor but populous states to the nocthr^
ward; Many other advantageous spots might be
pointed out. I hope I shaU be excused &r &iMe^
ing, in this place, into a little detail upon the sub^if
jBi^M f^MTBtiing new settlements, and the pd&tf
which it app«rs to me (from a review of the ttoteki
en the east coast of Sumatra, and the prooeedis|j»
of tibe Netherlands' gova^nment of M^cca) to iber
proper lor the British government to pursue. The
grand objeet in (the finrnifition of the settlement of
Pioangt and subsequently of Singapore, wa» the
eoDtendon and asb of the manufaeturea <tf £iire|Hr
and Westefn India, as weU aa. to psevcnt tfaq
Ikitadi fimn engrossing end miooopcdisiilg thewhioli
dsomeree of the eastern aiehipebge^ It eami<tt
be doohled, «bat iv time enedwagmg tiie.en<#
suBlption of JBunpeati goods^ wUck hit^Wtiiel'
nmtamd^^ttshtanoe a»i advantaft to^htiBMiefai

219 HISTORY AND DESCRIFTION OF

tiiring interests of the mother country, the Qim-
paay have made many sacrifiees, and ineurred
heavy losses* They have opened innumersble nevr
diaanels of eommerce, and a wide field fiv the in«
traduction of European commodities. The private
trader, however, is the principal gainer. During
the long war, the prices of British manu&ctuiea
were much higher, the freight and other charges
extremely extravagant, which rendered it impoa-
siUe for the G>mpany to make any profits upon a
great portion of their conrignments to India. Still,
however, they persevered ; and although their waiw-
houses were full of unsalcaMe goods^ they were
anxious to asust the manufacturers, and continued
to send out quantities of goods. Just as the pro»
spect opened for redeeming the serious losses whieh
the Company sustained by carrying oo so impsofit*
aUe a trsde, the private meichant was allowed to
enter into competition, and the extremely rednccd
prices of all British manufiKtuies enahled the fioet
traders to throw an immense quantity into the
markets of India. Cheap as they wen^ howuver,
many were ruined by the speculation ; but the loir
psiee was a temptation to the natives to use many
articles which they before had not either the
of purchasings or a taste for ; and thus has a
extensive demand fiar our manufactures been
ted Uuoui^iout India and the aichqMlaga Tha
same result wouU have followed, had the whale

XAST COAST OF gUXATEA. SIS

randies remained in Ihe hands of the Omxpnji
who have hmg discontinued their consignnients to
FSnang. It has heen justly remarked by the fih
thcr of the direetion»*-- ^ It is hoiirever a tratht
^ though a truth quite unknown, and peihiqpa un^
^ aeoeptaUe to many, that the Company have done
^ fiur more for the diseorery and opening of new
** diannels of trade in the eastern countries, thsA
^ it was in the power of private individuab to doi
^ Thdr permanence^ their capital, their fiietories
^ and residents in foteign parta^ the experience and
** knowledge acquired in the course of time, att
** contributed to give them this decided superiority
** in exploring and attempting new sources of tradi^
^ and in bearing, in the course of their many effivta
** to this end, losses of property and men, dinppointv
^ ments and reverses, which no private nierdumt»
^ or any number of merchants acting singly, could
^ meet.*' The grand and paramount object of the
Company, then, being the promotion of the sale df
British manu&ctures to the utmost pooriUe extent^
we are now to conrider the means best calculated for
this desirable purpose. Acting upon the instrao-
tions contained in the Court's letter, dated the 18th
April 1800, whi^ directs, that ^ you will likewise

• Mr Gnmt, in his Bxaminatioii befbct the ComAtee of
hKdM, SMi Febnmrj 18S1,

fll4 HISTOftT AlVD DBSCEimOV OP THK

^ (Amnwe the mott fticndly Kne of emdiict towardi
^ all the neighbouring independent n^jahs or atatet^
^ and yon will avail younelvea of any opportnni>
^ tiei that may oifer for nq;ociatuig commeraal
** treaties with thenit upon gnmnda of r e cl pre e al
M advantage," miaftions have, at variote tiniei,
and at connderable expenee, been tent to most of
the udghbonring eonntriea, which have been aoena.
toned to earry on an extensive eommeroe with PI-
nang ; but it ia more particularly within the last
few years, and during the present adniinistratiott,
that we have acquired any very eorreet notioQ oC
or formed any very intimate conneetion with, many
of the states in onr immediate vicinity. Hie re-
sult, however, has been gratifying, and sudi aa to
encourage a perseverance in this system, which Is
calculated to improve and extend our commerce,
and increase the revenue. It is but a few years
since the chieft of Delli, Sivdang, and other ports
on the east coast of Sumatra, qiened a correspond-
ence with the present head of the government of
FInang. Encouragement waa fpven, and mark
the result The produce from that quarter haa in-
creased fifteen fold within the last four years;
while the sale of our manufiictures and other ex-
ports has increased in the same proportion. The
best mode, perhaps, of pomoting and encouraging
the trade is, by occasionally deputing agents^ and
by keeping up a constant and active eomnuniea-

. KAsr ixiofr or sumnu^ ' ^ til

tiofk-hf mnmpmdmm. Thip mocbiMild fflrinit
be tkm besW asd SMit aceepteUk to Um giwUr
poiliia tf the itihabitmti of these cMUtam^^mA
MMUndiy the inook JuLraitagMW to tlie Cm^M^
(mflM^io tbin by the eitoaeioii of on fiietorieeiiid
miMtenMeeof eetaUUtaMnii^ whioh, ittkbrn-tt^
bend .iyateai of goviemmeiit, flUMt always bo atp
tended with Teiry orankraUe ezpencOb) ButtlMM
ase other oonridefationi which demand our fiitt-
eokr atteataeo. It cannot be denied, and la^li^
dead an inecmtmirertible £tict» that the Dnteh.gi^
▼emmenti have e?ineed a spirit of aggtanrtinemsyft
and a dcsife to extend their colonial pttnsissjws^
which has already had a most iajuriotts tsndoaey
upon our commerce in the more distant islandsiir
the archipelago; and they seem now to bo taaliil%
their attention to this quarter. The rigid Wf^Ukk
of monopoly which is so generally introdaced^ telb
their pesaessions, rendefs it the asose impetatifwili
us to prevent any unreasraaU* oMoaehment. A
gnntlman of the English ftetory at Caatosr^l^
speaking of the Dutch possessions in Java, Bm^
neob the Moluccas, Cddbesb and Malacca, and thdir
moiM^ly, says^ that* ** it naturally ftUows, thtt
^ so situated, no other direct fiwiHties to thnte
^pbces will now be permitted, than what it mf

* Mr BclMrts, Sttmined before the Iiord^ Slsl lisi«h Ull.

ai0 HisTomy m»d ducbiftioh or thx

^ nit tiie interest or policy of the Netlwhadi 9»«
^ Ternment to allow; and however modi neh •
^ aystem may be unjustifiable in itsd£ and efnaUy
'^ to be depkored as injurious to the prosperity ef the
^ places themselves, and moreover, euulinry to that
f* qpiritoffireedom which had been previowly hi iaeea
^ when we were sovereigns on these seas, yet it nut
^ ever operate^ even under the most fitvooiaUe ra»
^ gulations that the Dutch may make to psofeeet
** the interests of fiweigners^ as a serioua ilraiihaA
ff agunst that interested intercourse so mwrii railed
"^ for." Whether it be the mines of gold, leportad
^ be so rich and abundant in the kingdom
nangkabau, or what other motive may be the
lating cause, I know not; but certain it ii^ that the
Dutch axe endeavouring, by every means^ to pesaesB
themselves of Siack, and to form an eatahBahmeat
there. If gold alone can be their dgee^ they may
probably experience the same disappointmeBt mhUk
their countrymen, and other adventumoa
differed in some parts of the new worid, wUA
xqiresented to abound with tliat predona
ty • A tekbrated philosopher wisely remarks^ thal^
f < of all those expensive and uncertain
*f however, which bring bankruptcy upon the
^ part of the people who engage in them, thcvt i|

* Ad«m Smith, Wealth of Natkmi, jMige 354,

^ tetrch sfter new tilver and gold ninet. JM k
^ferimfM the most dnadvantageous ktterjrriil
^ the wcrid» or the Ode in which the* gem*«of
^ uMoe woo iiiiw ue pniety oesit tne feetv ft^
^']KMioo tothehmofthobewhodnnrtheUaariur;
^far thongfa the priies are few, and the Uanhi
^ many, the coimiioii price of a ticket ii the whale
^ fortune of a ireiy rich man.** The price Ike
Dntdi paid eight jr jeara ago, was die Mood of netft-
I7 900 men: thdbraefere and rigid CTadion%f mA
thenr ezeesBre avidity, rendering them no hagtBt
tderahle to the inhabitants of the country, who^cSB*
peUed them in a meet aummary manner. The
Dutdi goremment, notwithstandiog its knoiriedgfe
that the king of Siack entered into a solemn treatjr
with Colonel Farqnhar in the year 1818^ on dte
part o{ the British government, has, a few meaAs
ago, partly by argument, and partly by inUn ri d »>
tion, penoaded the king of that conntry to make a
treaty with them, the object of whidi (the eichK
sion of the ]^tidi) is too manifest, by their anxtelf
to establish a feitery. The violation of a treaty is
no less an act of injustice on the part of the power
which break# it, than on the part of the govern*
joent which indhices it todo so. An author whsrf^
opinions ought to have some weight, says,* ^ aa the

• Vattd't Lsw of Natkos, Book II. CJ1141. 18. psgs 190^

nS HItTOBT AMD DISCBimOH OT THE

^ tngagemenii of a treitj impoie ob Om ont had
^ a perfect obligitioD, they produee 'm the dlmr m
^ perfiaet rigiit The liraiGh of a treety ii thmfim
•* a noktioD of the perfeet right of the pMtj with
'^ whom we have contneted, aad thb ie an Mt of
^ itojuitiee against him.* ItmajheaaidofaaliiM
ak of indiTidual men, who promote thor own ad^
mneement^ without any reg^ to the rights of
their ncighboiirB,*-- '^ If we see a nan who is uni>
*f ftrmly eager to porsue his own prifaie ad?sntsge,
^ widioot regard to the roles of honoor* or the di^
^ tiea of friendship, why should wo in any
^ genqr think of sparing him ?"* Self-
la the first impulse of natute : in pditteal and
nereial ooncefns, the same regard fiv our own in^
tCRsts ought equally to guide ns. The eonespo^
denoe of the king of Siack, and another prinelpal
diisf in the ooontryt and the general tenor of their
osnmunieations to the agent of the government^
cstahliihcB, I think, thi« point, that they do not
willingly consent to the Dutch estaMishing tibso^
arives at Siack, and that they are in a state of wj^
prehension. and ahvm, lest they should hetoowe^
to rmst their doing so by force. TheehiefrebiB
and solicit the protection of the British
in such an unwished for emergeney. They

* XenoplioQ.

IMT OOAfT Of MmtATUL HI

dnrtljf gWi^ rad Imw 'gii^6Df % dwldsd pfeAwiMl

tothiBrit-th gararmMit; mA hoHtg tud*^!

tiMty ifith that guffiKbt ill iWMd yens ago^ JttI

ilipidtttioBa of wUiA liim li0m

M tileir fMrt till latdf# th^ Bot inireaiMglily^qi*

]pif ftt raecow to tiuA go? eimiMBt with ivimii tl^jr

h«re been 89 bog ednneeted^ to protoet tfaaia

a atntt the eoeroachinentB of another powor whkli

thejr dial&fl^ and in fiict to nd in defimding ifei

omt interertt» wfaidi would be aActed bjr tfie att»

whitarifwi of die treaty, the neeesiary. eomaqnearfk

of Dntoh pfeponderanee in the kingdom. Tlmd^

intCTfrrenoe, and an expoaition of our rdatife oob*

nection to the higher authoritict» might piwiiit

the further progresa of measorea which are atfoefr

ly calciilated to kindle fisdinga of jealooay and lipt*

tility between the two European gove r imi ent^ and

whidi would be obviated by a fiur teoogniiioil

of their separate rights. The chief aim of the

British government at Pinangi haa been, as iurU

I have had the meana of Judpng, to aacom ft M>

and equitable participatiaii in the tnde of the anr>

mnndhigeountriea s while no attempt has ever baeH

made to prevent the Dntdi enjoying the same pit>

iFilegea. Sinoe the Dutch received Malaoca ikpfli

enr hands, we have made no exdnaive oontraela te

monopolies ; but as they have evinced a very diAr*

ent disposition, and have (if I may use the term)

gone to the fountain-head of our moat imfcrtfeiit

S90 HISTORY AMD DKSCRIFTION OF THE

bnuich ef oommerce (for the wholeooatt it indte «
len under the rathoritf of Slack, and would soon
fidl an eaiy prey to the Datch), it ii tune to eoD«
nder how our interettt are likely to be afteted*
and how we may beat ayert the impending Uow.
The rapid oonqueata of the Dntdi in the interior
of Padang (as represented to me by the natives),
and thdr simultaneous operations at Siack, indi-
cate but too dearly, a desire to secure the whole
coast and valuable country comprehended within
these limits. I have high authority fiv smtiling;
in support of my argument of protecting our own
li^ts, and those of our neighbonn who have esta*
Uidied reasonable claims to our aid, that,* " of all
^ the duties of a nation towards itself, thediief oIk
^ ject is its preservation and perfection, together

* with that of the state ;** and again,^^ Every na-
** tion ought, on occasion, to labour finr the preser-
^ vatiou of others, and for securing them from
^ruin and destruction, as fiur as it can do ao^
^ without exposing itself too much. Thns, when
^ a neighbouring nation is unjustly attacked by
^ a powerful enemy, who threatens to opprem it, if

* you can defend it without exposing yornidves to
^ great danger, unquestionably it isyour duty todo
^ so;" and againr— It is the interest of ** princes to

• Vtttd'tLAwor Natiim Book II. Clap. I. poiect 185u ISS.

EAST COAST OF SUMATRA. 2S1

stop the progress of an ambitious monarch, who
aims at aggrandizing himself by subjecting his
*' neighbourB.** Upon the same principles, plans taf
monopoly must belopposed by somededsivemeasurea*
The sum then of all these arguments is, to ishow
the necesaty of adopting immediate measures for
putting the trade of the east coast of Sumatra upon
a sure footing ; and as the Dutch are not content
with an equal share in the commerce, and the na»
tives have shown a disposition to make considerable
concessions to the British government) it may be ft
wise policy perhaps to negodate for the formation
of small &ctories, under one or more resident sexw
vants, for the purpose of securing tiie trade, andfor^
ming valuable dep6ts for precious commodities^,
which would find their way to Finang. Such fiu^
tories, under able and experienced men, conversant^
with the manners and language of the inhabitanti^
would materially tend to advance the interests (^
commerce in this quarter. They would stimulate
tile natives to industry, and excite a taste for a va-
riety of manufactures ; a better system, of goveni%
ment would be introduced ; there would be less dia^
sension and fewer feuds amongst the numeroda'
petty states ; stability and order would be introcbK
ced ; traders from Finang and Singapore would &JL
more secure in the protection of their property ; and
there is no doubt there w<mld be a oonsaderabfe:
tion in our commerce. Arrangement^

♦ J » I r ., I :

Saa IIISTOUY AND DESCKIFTION OF TllK

might be entered into with the ehie&y to alloir c
eertain portion of the duties and revenues to be
i|p|iropriated for the support, and to defray the cs[«
peneesp of these estaUishments, whieh they fraokL
find it their interest on many aeoounts to do.
StOIf however, it wooU, in my view, be hat pvefin^
able^ if the Dutch could be persuaded to eoDtent
themselves with an equitable portion of the trade
in that quarter, and permit the natives to cany
their produce to the best market ; and the dieap-
MSB of our roanufiutures, the liberality, activity,
and capital of our merchants, and the easy and ac-
oonmiodating regulations of our ports, would ensure
to us an extensive and benefidal trade and increas-
ed revenue.

General Character oft he .filattoe w— The Kjoan-
karan and other tribes which are not addicted to
cannibalism, are extremely avandons; and in pno-
portion as they have had dealings vrith the Alakjrs^
Aey become cunning. They are c&tremely foad
of amassing money, which makes them iaimtnma,
notwithstanding they arc addicted to gambKag,
epinm-smoking, and other vicious
They are proud and independent, and
any restraint on their inclinations, bscqmiag in thia
esse furious and desperate.

The other tribes who are a dd i c t e d to
aae <with some few exceptions), more artless^

about money, and more kanest in their teU

€€
U

i€

£A8T OOAST OF 8UMATKA. 9V

ingi. TbarcbiiMtarqideed has been wdldoflop^

ed by aa intelligent tmveUer, who viaited tlie fUMt

coaat many yean ago.* ** The Battas ace m mdl

^ meaniagt ignenat^ aimple people. The Malaya

^and A c h eneae have th adcbma jto peraoadf

^ tiiem that they aetUe at the months of their liYfPI

^ to defend them from invasion (firom white man

** eyedslly), wheieas it is to eq}oy the UMNpop^ly

of die camphor and benjamin, which they gathfr

near Sinkel river, Barroos, and Tafpanqelf*

What Mr Marsden says of the Ba^aabe^

cannibals^ I have great reason to belief«;e. ; ^^

CannSbalunu — ^ Trading, once at SjWbd Ar

benjamin and camphor, with Rahamalleem^ a> fir

** spectable Malayan, I purchased firom him a Bfitts

slav^ who spoke good Malay. I named hpRi

Cato. In the many oonversations I bfd ifiA

^ Cato about his countrymen, I beg to r^atd.^Hl

^ short story he told me, which may be called tlw

** nroflcress of rannihalisnii Baham Alli>»m had n

^ fiiVQurite wife or concubine stolen firom hiwt l^/A

"^ Batta, who sold her. The thief was taksn^^o^

^ e^LOCuted, acoordiijy; to $he Batta law finr sn^^*!!

** aamef that is, he was led to a stake, and eujt Jlff

^ pieces by numberless swords. They roasted piejHi

<< of him on the fire ; and .Babamalleem, a dviliJHiJt

• CapUin Forsii't VojafSi, pifs 88.^ , *' '\ '^[

€4
M
it

394 HISTOllY AND DESCRIPTION OF THE

^ Mahometan, put a bit of his roasted flesh into his
** mouth, Int it with anger, then spit it on the
•' ground.**

The existence of this barbarous and savage
practice, so revolting to the ideas of civiliaad mmn,
has long been doubted, and is only partially credit-
ed even to this day, notwithstanding the multi-
plied and convincing proofs of its prevalence to a
great extent, as particularly described by Mr Alars-
den. Being, I own, rather sceptical on this pointy
I determined I should omit no opportunity of mr-
riving at the truth. I am fully justified then, not
only from what I witnessed, and the proo& now in
my possession, but from the concurring testinrany
of the most respectable and intelligent natives
whom I met, in asserting, that cannibalism pre-
vails even to a greater extent on the east side <if
Sumatra, than, according to the accounts reerived,
it does on the west A reference to my joonal
will show many proofs of its existence. For the
sake of humanity, however, be it mentioned, tliafc
it is rapidly decreasing, as civilisation and eom-
meroe are advancing. It b not for the sake of
food that the natives devour human flesh, but to
gratify their malignant and demon-like fiy^W^gs of
animosity against their enemies. Some few there
are, however, of such brutal and depraved habits,
as to be unable, from custom, to rdish any other
tood. The ngah of Tanah Jawa, one of the

SAST pOAST OF SUMATBA. 935

powerfiil and independeBt Batta dddb, if lie does
not eat human flesh every day, is afflicted with
a pain in his stomach, and will eat nothing else.
He orders one of his slaves (when no enemies can
be procoredi nor criminals, for execution) to go oiit
to a distance, and kill a man now and then, which
serves him for some time, the meat being cut into
slices, put into joints of bamboo, and deposited in
the earth for several days, whidi softens it The
parts usually preferred, however, by epicures, are
the feet, hands, ears, navel, lips, tongue, and eyes.
This monster, in the shape of a man, is not con*
tent with even this fare, but takes other and nloie
brutal methods for gratifying bis depraved appetite:
A Batta, when he goes to war, is always provided
with salt and Kme-juioe, which he carries in a snudl
nmt bag on his left side. He who is the first to
lay his hands upon an enemy, at a general assaidt
of a fort, obtains particular distinction by sdsing a
certain part of the body with his teeth. The head
is immediately cut ofi; If the victim iswarm, die
blood is greedily drank by these savages^ holding
the head by the hair above their mouths.

Prindpul Cannibal States. — The principal caiu
nibal states are Seantar, Silow, Tannah, Jawa, S^
pendan, Puite, Semalongann, Sdukong, Leabsi^
Krian Usang, Semapang, Pendolok, Ria Malnuii
Ria, Pagir Tangah, Naga Saribn, Nagore, linga,

'J98 HISTORY AX1> DESCRIPTION OK THt

Peidumbanan, Sepukkah, Dorma Rajah, Bundar,
Mirbow, Dolok* Munto Panri, Sdampinang, all
independent states under separate rajahs, manj of
them speaking diflferent dialects, and of varions ha-
Uts and manners. All these states are inland of
Delli, Sirdang, Bedagai, Batubara, Assahan, and
PaneL The country throughout ia r c pr cac nted to
he Tery populous.

General Character of the Malay$.-^The Bla-
kyan inhabitants on this coast, though indolent in
their habits, are upon the whole as industrious a
raoe of Malays as any I am acquainted with, ex-
cept the Bu^ese, who are by far the most enter-
prinng mariners and active traders in the east.
The Malays in some of the states are addicted to
opium, gambling, and other vices ; but at the ports,
where an extensive trade is carried on, they are
more temperate in their habits. They are impa-
tient of an insult, and even a slight or deficiency
of attention, makes a lasting imprassion. If they
consider themselves insulted, they never forget the
injury, and seek means of revenge. If, on the
other hand, they are treated well, and dieir eonfi-
dencc is once established, they become sincerely
attadied, faithful, and trust-worthy. Many there
are, however, who, having used opium to cxeeas,
become almost frantic, and commit the most horrid
crimes. To strangers they are hospitable and gi^

EAST COAST OF SUMATRA. 387

ii6r6u8 in small matt^rsf but withal avaridotiSy and
^g without dimaie every thing they de6^' wMdi they
think there is a ebanee of procuring^*
. jPrrac^.— -It has been generally supposed that
the whole of the inhabitants on that eoast are ad-
dicted to piracy ; and the character of the Batu-
bara people has been mentioned as peculiarly
treacherous and perfidious.* No doubt such was
fhe case formerly^ when there was little or lio
trade from Delli, Langkat, and the surrounding
flourishing ports; but they are now entuifely ad-
dicted to commercial pursuits, and are th^ princi-
pal carriers of the valuable produce. Slack and
Heccan still retain a bad character */ and I have na
doubt that there issue from these countries some
desperate pirates ; but as to the others, particidarly
between Assahan and Timian, I am confident,'
that, if piracy exist at all, it must be to ar very li-
mited ext^it.' The chiefs seem all very much dis-
posed to trade, and too much engaged- in hostilities'
in the interior with r^ractory chiefs, And oi&rciDg
the payment of ^eir revenues and duties, to be
able, to engage in piratical adventures. The stat^
df tiieir countries, and a particidar observation of
their arms and occupations, united to thmr tuppte^
hension for die pirates who' come firom the extr«>

, ■

* Horalmrgfa's Dirtotor^. .

HISTOSV AND DEiCUPTION OF THE

«f the ctndta, tad plunder thcar d cfi ro ecI eaB
fvows, of wlddi there are nmnberlen infltences, ae
wdl IS tlie dispoatkm manifested by the Batubam
]naple (die nost poiferfid and independent of all)
to thcA Tpiney, oonvinces nie» that the pirates who
l«rk aboQt that coast and the adjacrat islandi^ eome
fiwa other quartan ; from Rhio, Lingin» kc the
principal piratical states. The Malays are gene*
rally timid in approaching European vessels at sea.
Caution ought to be used in sending boats along*
ade their piows. Forest says, ** This ought never
** to be done by force : Malays have no other idea
** when compulsion is used, but that it is the prdude
^ to slavery or death ; and many fatal consequenoea
^ have followed from attempts of this nature, when
** nothing hostile was intended on either side. If
^ a boat sent on such business be ordered to fie to

* at a small distance, and talk to the Malays to
** disarm their first apprehensions, fif^ to one but

* they will Uien go on board voluntarily; espe>»
^ ciatty if it is an English boat that ealls them."*

Posseasing, as I do, but a very imperfect know-
ledge <rf navigation, I shall avail mysdf €i the le-
marks of Lieutenant Rose, in his sailing diieetioM
for the east coast, and embody a part of them in iht
following description, which will prevent repetitioab
and proaent at one view a clear and concise aoeouut
of the navigation of the coast, united to a survif

EAST COAST OF SUMATBA.

of the country, and be more generidly tMeftil to re-
fer to. The following is a list of the rivers, capes
or headJands, islands, bays, and straits, which will
be described in regular order. It may be necessary
to premise, that

Sungei or Kwdla signifies a river.

Tar0(mg or Ujong, a point, cape, cm: head-land.

JPulo^ an island.

Teluk, a bay.

SoUaty a strait

List of Rivers, Capes or Paints, Islands, Says,
and Straits, between Diamond Point and
Stack inclusive.

Tanjong Jambu Ayer.
Sungei Jambu Ayer.
Sungei Pari Busa.
Sungd Ram Kundei.
Sungd Puniiia Malikan.
Taojong Jejulo or Jaulat.
Sungei Jej ulo or Jaulat Ke-

chil.
Sungei Jejulo or Jaulat Be»

sar.
Ujong Prabilab.
Sungei Prauhilab.
Sunga Purla.
Sungei Tumbus,
Ujong Bian.
Sungei BiM.

Sungei Birim.
€ungei Pasmr Futih.
Sungei Bowan.
Sungei Langksa.
Ujong Ewala Langksa.
Sungei Rajah Muda.
Sungei Rajah Tuah.
Ujong Mukka.
Sungei Mukka.
Sungei Ju.
Sungd Penaga.
Ujong Thnian.
Sungei Teluk Udang.
Sungu Brangow.
Sungei Kocong Ckxit.
Ujong Bijtfi OfaOi.

HISTOAY Ain> DKSICRIPTION OF THK

Simgei Rajdi OUl .
Sungei TenuBUi Mirboir.
Sungei Ayer Mmmng.
Sungei Konnjia.
Pulo Kjunpei*
Pub Sampilis.
Sungei BenUmg.
Sungei Bubalan.
Sunga Luppoi, or Kayu

Lapan.
Sungei Gubbang.
Sungei Serapa
Ujong Dammar*
Ujong Bubon, pr Pan^;alan

Beedo.
Sungri Langkat.
Kwala Tappa Kuda.
Pulo Tappa Kuda.
Ujong Tappa Kuda.
Sakt Jaring Nalua.
Pulo Jaring Nalus.
Sungei Seiotoog.
PubSekHoDg.
Sungei Serapo.
Sungei Sepuchong.
Pulo Ragai.
Sungei Langkat Tuak
Ujong Langkat Tuah.
Pulo BcrringringhL
Gacfing.

1 Langkat Muda*
N^pab Sarangao*

TelukPereaei or Pria.

Sungei Pawr Putih.

Ujoog passr Putih.

^wala Belawan.

KwaUDelli.

Sungei Diia.

Sungei Piila Pangfima.

Ujong Purling.

^wala Lalang or Perdioot.

Sungei Tgan.

Kwala Sirdaog.

Ujong Bergumma.

Ujong Rumoda.

Sungei Pantei Labu.

Sungei Palu Neeboiig» or

Danel
Kwala Ayer Etam, or Lu-

ria Pagar.
Ujong Sabunga Bungm.
Sungei Pebowangan.
Sungei SgunghL
Sungei 8e Jawi JawL
Sungei Mangkudu, or Soiw

bajaddL
Ujoog Karumbu.
Sungei Bedi^gaL
Sungei Bedagaa llatL
Sungei Selukoiy*
Kwala Padang.
Kwala Nagonda.
Sungei Nagonda.
oungei jrcguoraMBD.
Sungei Separi Fmu

XAST COAST OF SUMATRA.

ISl

Suiigei Mau.

Sungei Tanjong.

Ujong Tanjong.

Sungei Rumboos.

Sungei Perapo.

Teluk Piai.

Kwala Batubara.

Sungei Silow.

Sungei Se Jawi Jawi, No. 9,

Sungei Bagan.

Sungei Ular.

Sungei Baniak.

Sungei Langkadei Euning.

Sungei Tamban Tulang.

Ujong Tamban Tulang.

Sungei Assahan.

Tanjong Si Api Api.

Sungei Leedong.

Sungpi Swalook*

Sungei Be^lah.

Sungei Panei.

Pulo Rantau.

Tanjong Bangsi.

Sungei Setukang.

Sungei Pejudian.

Sungei Aye^ Tawar.

Sungei Ular.

Sungei Daun.

Sungei Tangah.

Sungei Salang.

Sungei Lelin.
Sungei Besar.
Sungei Mirbow.

Sungei Sampeiniat •
Sungei Pakietan.
Tanjong Merantei.
Sungei Nipah Mandara.
Sungei Pebantaian.
Sungei Kamodi.
Sjungei Kubu,
Pulo Lalang Besar.
Pulo Lalang Kechil.
Sungei Reccan, in which

arc.

Sungei Serassa.

Sungei Menas^p.

Sungei Banca.

Tanjong Merantei.

Tanjong Segra.

Sungei Batu Saketoi^.

Sungei Sarang AUang.

Sungei Jaring Halus.

Sungei Tanah Putih.

Sungei Batu Ampa.

Sungei Labuan Tangali.
Ujong Perbabian.
Sungei Lumut.
Sungei Tduk FuleL
Sungei Ayer Tawar.
Ujong Bacow Tuah.
Sungei Rajah Begamu.
Sungei Teluk Dalam. . r
Pulo Roopat.
Ujong Saddi.
Salat Roopat.
Ujong Banta^.

232 HISTORY AMD D£8CKlPTION OF THE

Sungei Bukit Bitoo.
Sungci DumeL Sallat Tanjoog Jattee.

Ujong SinlMur. Ujong Balai.

Suogei Bertii^ Mcram- Sungei Siack Kednl.
bong. Sungci Slack

Diamond Point, or Tatyong Jambu Ayer^ fimns
the western pmnt of the north entrance of the straits
of Malacca, or eastern extremity of the Pedir coast
It is thus described by Lieutenant Rose :— ** Dia-
^ mend Point, in latitude S'lG SST north, andlon-
gitude 9V SG' 49' east» is a low woody point, fre-
quented during tlie fair season by fishermen from
'' the coast of Pcdir, having a reef extending about
** one mile from the point to its outer edge, in a
^ northerly direction ; has three £ithoms sand on its
^ edge, and shoals gradually to the point

Current and Tide. — '* The flood tide runs to
** the south-cast, and ebb tide to the north-west
^ The rise and fall on the springs is from nine to
'' ten feet. The tide runs about two knots per hour.
Direction of the Coast. — '' From this to Pran-
^ hilah Point, the coast runs about south-east by
^ east, carrying regular soundings at a small dia*
^ tanee from the shore.**

Sungei Jambu Ayer^ a small river, up whidi
there is a population of 200 Achcnese, whose prin-
cipal occupation is fishing and building boats. Hie
current is extremely strong in this ri?er.

£A8T COAST OF SUM ATBA> 338

Sungei ParUmsu is another inccmsidefable riTer,
having a pqpulaticm of 100 souls, principally fisher-
men.

Sungei Ram Kundei contains 100 houses, or a
population of 600 people, who cultivate paddy.

Sungei Punnia MaMkan has a population of
about 1 50, and paddy is the chief produce. Dam*
mar also is found up most of these rivers,

Tanjong Jejulo or Jaulat, a prominent point,

Sungei Jejulo Kechil and Sungei J^uio Be$aTi
two rivers, up which there is a very large popula-
tion of Achenese. The number has been estimat-
ed at 5000. The name of the chief is Niakmo-
hun, Kejuruan Jejulo, and the principal products
of the country are paddy, wax, and dammar batu*

U^ng Prauhdah.

Sungei Prauhilah. ** Prauhilah Point is in lat.
« 4° 52' 50" north, and longitude 97° 54' 80" east
^^ Off this point, a reef extends out about three
" miles to the south-east and north-west, with very
<< irregular soundings on it. We anchored in 4i
*^ fathoms sand, about 3^ miles off shore. The en-
^' trance into the river is almost dry at low. water,
** but when entered, carries 2 fathoms for some
*^ miles. A small fishing village is situated a con-*
*' siderable distance up it. From this to Langsa
** Bay, the coast runs about south-east by south."

Ll£UTEN4>NT RoSE.

Sungei Piirla, containing about 100 houses, and

2U HISTORY AND DLdv IIIITIO.H Ofr THE

nearly 1000 people ; the chief Kgnraaa Ptaila ; Hid
the principal exports paddy, wax, asd dammar.

Sungei Tumbus.

tjang Bian.

Sungei Bian has 80 boosts, and about 1TB in*
habitants ; and paddy is cultiTated.

Sungei Bhimj aboat 50 booses, and 400 inlm-
bitants; tbe cbieTs name Sidris, and bis title
Gajib Birim. Boat-boilding is carried on to same
extent, and paddy is cultivated.

Sungei Passir Putih.

Sungei Rowan.

Sungei Langksa. Up this river there are about
80 houses, and about 600 inhabitants ; tbe cfaiera
name Gulah, Kejuruan Langsa. In tbe interior
there is reported to be a very large popuktioB of
Acbenese, which was estimated by many at 10^000.

Ujong Kxvala Langksa^ Telok Timgksa, or
*^ Langksa Bay, is formed by Ujong Bian to tbe
*' northward, and Ujong Kwala Lanj^ua to the
^ south-west Its breadth is about 4 miles, and it

runs inland at 44 miles, with numerous sboaia asid

narrow channels leading into the different rifcta.
^* Near Ujong Kwala Langksa there is a smaD
^ island, about a mile in extent, caUed Puh TfeA
- ' l^gy Tuju^ the channel about SOO yaida md^
*^ and carrying 7 fathoms water throogb it. b
^ coming in from the northwanl, this island
f^ not be distinguished from the mainland.

M€

KiST COAMT OF »UMATRA.' fiSS

Entrance into t/ie Langksa. — ^' The entranoe

into the Langksa river bears from Pulo Tellagy
>* Tuju about muthy having a safe but narrow chaii!>
f^ nel on either side of the island. The best channel
^ into this river is from the north*east» between the
f* isknd and Ujcmg ^wala Langksa, having 8^^
^^ &thom8 least water. In the entrance of tht
** river there are two small islands. The towa la
*^ said by the Malays to be about three hom» puU
^^ up, and contains a number of inhabitants, who
^' cultivate rice, pepper, and rattans. Anchored in
^^ S fathoms mud, about 6 miles from the deepest
'* part of the bay. The reeft extend out Sf miles
** from the nearest land."

Lieutenant Ross.

Sungei Raja Mv4a contains about SO houses^
;and 200 inhabitants. Faddy is cultivated, and
boats built.

Sungei JRaja Tuah^ about 50 houses, and 80Q
inhabitants. Boats and paddy.

L^ong Mukka. A few people, who cultivate
tobacco, reside here.

. Stmgei Juj so called from the number of sharks.
No inhabitants.

Sungei Penaga or Timian. This is a tion^ider-
aUe river, and contains about 1000 inhabitants,
near the river's mo^th, and a large population ill
the interior. They are principally Achenese. 'A
jiarge colony of Malays, however, from Lamavy,

aSO HI8T0BY AMD DESCRIPTION OF THE

who fled when the Siameie Attacked that jhnocp
have estaUiflhed themadvet there. Tbeng^ ia
Fuchat Bagam Ahmet The produce of die coun-
try 18 dammar, wood oil, paddy, and wn. Bonta
xe$di the fint viUage in one tide. Thoto am
two kampongs or viUagea up the 'nmian ; mm 0k
the right, called Karang : the other to the left, call-
ed Sekra* The chief of the former ia atyled K^|ii-
raan Karang, and the latter ia Tnanko Brrhanaj
Kejuman Sdua. The authority of TImiaB ex-
tends to Diamond Point All the statea b et w e en
these places pay tribute to Timian, to die tiiflfaig
amount of about 800 dollars a year, of which the
rajah appropriates one-half to hia own nae^ wmd the
other portion is sent to the king of AdieeDt whcoe
authority he fully acknowledges, althoogh the nyah
of Siack a few years ago oonqnend this couiti7»
and still claims the sovereignty of it

ITjang TimiatL

Sungei Teluk Udang, n brandi of the
or Timian.

Sungd Bratigow.

Sungei Korong Chooi. A very few i
ants, fishermen ; the village half a tide np.

ISong Bqfoh Olah.

&ingei Rqjah Olah communicatea with die IV
mian. Fishermen resort here, but no fixed ial»p
bitants.

Sungei Terapan Mirbaw.

KAST COAST OF SVMATEA* 381

Sungd Ajftr Masing.

Sungei Korcof^.

Outdde» a dbort distance fitim 8hare> are tm> a
islands, called Pub Kampei and Pulo SampUkp.
net dirtinguishable firom the main, unless appraadiH
odpietty dose;

Sungei SesUang is a small river. The chief!
is Tuanko Leban» Eejuruan Besitang. There ia^
4 small village, with about 10 houses, and 100 m-i
hafaitfUdts. It was formerly a very populous placed
and is now under the authority of Langkat There^
used to be a great quantity of paddy exported ;r
now very little. The chief produce is dammai^
i^tkanf, wa^ and ivory. There are eight prows
belonging to the place, which trade with Pinang.

Sungei Bubahn is a onall river, with a smali
filing viUagCi, containing about 50 inhabitantau
This forms the boundary between the territory o£
Delli and Timian.

Sungei Jjuppan or Kayu Lapan*

Sungei Gvbbangj or Tampat Kwala Dammaiy
so called firmn the quantity of dammars The
Adienese resort here for dammar.

Sungei Serapo communicates with Langkati
There are no fixed inhabitants. Fishennen resartf
here occasionally. ci.

l^ong Dammar J a i^sry prominent point near the
entrance of the Langkat river. This point maif be
known by a top of high arran trees. The

HISTOAY and D£SCRIPnON OF THE

ftnned by the Langkat river»' eaBtead out from this
pcrint about seven or eight miles, and are ferjr dan-
gefons to ajiproaeh. It appears to Hie, that Lieii-
tauuit Rose has rather limited their extent and
number in his diart Ujong Dammar seems to be
an eligible spot for a small factory, as tlie land is
high dose to the sea. The Duteh indeed nere
anrare of its favourable positioo, and ap[died far it
many years ago. This is an ishmd formed by die
Langkat river to the southward ; by Snnga Serapo
to the northwestward, and by a small channd
whidi takes a semicircular turn, and unites these
two rivers.

IQofig JVu&ofi, or Pangalan Beeda^ i> the
other point to the southward, forming the en*
teance to Langkat river. The email village of
Bttbon is situated near this point, and *^«»^f»f
about ISO inhabitants. Tim chief is Pedwot
Udin, son of Rajah Tunkop of Adieen, and con-
nected by marriage with die sultan' of Ddli.
This villi^ is pleasantly situated on the kft bank
ef the noble river of Langkat, and is eefebmled for
its produce of sugar or ja^ri« made from the anan
tree. This tree grows here luxurtantly» and is ap-
]^]ed to various uses. Toddy is extracted finni it ;
and the substance with whidi the stem is smnonnd-
edt called qu, is well known as makii^ cxodlfent
cables, while the Malays moke their pens of the
small twigs. Blachang, which is made of drief

EAST COAST OF SUMATRA.

shrimps, pounded and pr^ared, is . gceat articte of
trade here, as well as salt fish. The populatioix
being small, the trade is not of much extent, but a*
considerable quantity of opium is disposed of to the
people belonging to prows which occasionally come
in for refreshment, and the traders passing up and
down the river to Langkat

Kwala Buhofif or Sungei Langkat^ *' is in lati-
'' tude 4° 1' north,^ longitude 98° 29' east. Off
** iiie mouth of the river, a bank extends outr
^ about 4 miles to the north-nort^-east,'' (I think
7 or 8 miles), '* having dry patches on it, on which
** the surf breaks. From Langsa Bay to Ujong
Timian, the coast is bold, having from 15 to 20
&thoms, about 2 miles from the shore, excepting.
^ a reef oi breakers off Ujong Timian and Fukr
** Roquit, which extend out about 1 mile. From*
Timian to Kwala Bubon,' the land forms a deep
bay, not easily perceived from a distance, in con*
sequence of two islands that. front it, and which
^ are not easily distinguished from the mainland,(
'* unless when close in shore. The names ci the
islands are Pulo Tampasalee and Pulo Sampa^
tuah," (Pulo Tampilis and Pulo Kampei); '' Be*
tween these islands^ the Malays informed us
'* there was a safe channel that leads into a river
<* called Sungy Kayu Lapan. Anchored in 8
'* fathoms mud, about 4i miles off the entrance of
^ the river.

t€

fHO HISTORT AND DEBCRIPTION OF THE

Biie and FaUoftheTUe.^'' It iMhighrndxt
^offBuboD at three bourit and the rite aad fidl on
^ the tpringt is about nine fiset"

LiEUTXNAKT Rose's Sailing Diieetioiia.

Mmiramee to, and Navigaikm ^tlm Lan^hat
Bwer.—TluM river is about 800 yaids wide at its
entrance, and after passing die bv, the depth of
wator increases to S and 4 fiithoms. The month,
how e ver, is nearly Aoak e d up by sand-banksp
wUdi extend ont very far ; and the soundii^ are
1 and H fiithoms fer many miles outside. After
asnending two leadies, thoe is a small channd to
die right, whieh leads off to Sungei Sergio ; and
one reach further up, it branches off to the right
and left The one to the right is cslled Batng
Sarangan, up which, a short distance^ is a smaD
Tillage oi the same name, where the inhabitants
have lately commenced the cultivation of pepper.
Proceeding up the river to the left, Sungei Miagid
is the nest channd, whidi turns off to the right,
and with the Batang S a r a ng a n, fitms a sbmD
isbnd, called Pulo Mi^id. Nearly opposite to tUs^
is the Terussan, €fr main channel, whidi coannmi-
cates with Tappa Kuda and Jaring Hahs, and is
the channd used by large boats proceeding up to
Kampong Kapala Sungd, and the other viUages in
the interior. It is about 180 yards wide. The
depths of water at the entnnce are S and 4 fath o ms .
The river continues to branch off into nmnerons

£ASr COAST OF SUMATRA. 341

channels, all leading into eadi other. These it is
unnecessary, and.would he difficult to descrihe. It
is navigable for hoats of 30 tons, nearly a hundred
miles ; but the current being extremely strong, ten
and twelve days are usually required to ascend that
distance. The current, in the narrow and con^
fined channels particularly, runs with the greatest
impetuosity, at the rate, I should suppose, of five
and a half knots an hour. The sides of the river,
for the first thirty or forty miles, are covered with
jungle, large trees intermixed with brushwood, and
the ground is low and swampy ; but as you advance
into the interior beyond this, the cultivation com-
mences, and there are extensive tracks of dear land
appropriated to the cultivation of paddy.

Villages at Langkat. — The villages up the
Langkat river are numerous. The first is

Terussan, containing about seventy houses, the
residence of the Bindahara, the Badar Udin, and
the rest of the family of the former rajah. This
is a miserable village situated on the point, where
there is a bifurcation of the river. It is genendly
under water.

ICapala Sungei, the next town, eontains about
four hundred houses, and is the reiddenoe of the
rajah, or Kejuruan Muda. Here the banks are
high, and the houses are large and well buil&
They are constructed of much the same materials
as at most of the other places, being built on post!

242 HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF THK

of wood aeven or dght feet from the gioiuid ; tbe
sides, panDek of wood of the better dam; mod
those of the poorer class by samiers or artaps, or
bark of trees. The roofs are thatdied wiUi tbe
leaves of the nipah, the sirdaiig, and tbe rattan, all
of which are abundant This is the great dep6t
for pepper, and the place where the prowi princi-
pally load. The following are the principal vil-
lages, with the estimated number of houses in each :

BOUSES.

Tenusan contains

KapaU Sungei,

400

Seftbat Abat, .

150

Ba Beinjei,

Selesei,

900

Kitapaogei,

Minchinun,

Bohoro,

100

Batumandi,

Total 1050

And reckoning on an average seven inhabitants
in each, which is a very moderate estimate, the
Malayan population may be stated at 7850.

JBaUa FUla^Ci. — Dependent upon Laogkat,
and under tbe immediate audHvity of tbt ngah,
are a great number of Batta villages^ '"H^^ by
tbe industrious race of fcppet cultivators. They
are of the tribe Karau Karau. There are maay

EAST COAfKT OF SUMATRA.

243

small streams which fall into the Langkat river in
the interior, up one of which are the following
villages : —

Mamosi, containing

[NHABITANTS.

100

Sapodorian,

500

Dingy Kamawan,

100

Begulda, .

1,000

Nembeki,

1,000

Grat, . . .

500

Nama Tonko,

Nama Rambei,

1,000

Belintangy

1,500

Bna Raju,

1,000

Up another branch are —

Luigapora, . w

Dorian Sajua,

Baknomang, .

800

Kota Tumburu,

Bakrong,

1,000

Assam Kumbang,

Gominara,

Tokaja,

500

And in another small stream-

Bekalop,

Tanjong Muda, .

800

Dorian Serapi,

1,000

Carry forward.

10,610

24A HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF THK

Brought forward, 10,610

Sungei Bechara, SOO

Terianjia, 500

Tamburan, 500

UjongGorab, • 1,000

Manchang» 50

SolaAtci, ... 600

Total, 15,560

of Battas, under the authority of Langkat

History and Government. — ^The fint duef of
Langkat was a panglima from Ddli, aboat one
hundred and fifty years ago. The country was
conquered about five years ago by Slack ; and the
rajah of Dclli now cbims tribute from the Keju-
ruan Muda, who, although he acknowledges the
sovereignty of Siack, does not admit of any inter*
ference on the part of the sultan of DellL At the
time of the subjugation of the country, the sove-
reign power was vested in Kejuruan Tuah Etam,
who was displaced, and the Kcrjuruan Muda, Ra-
jah Ahmet, was placed on the throne. The Ke-
juruan Tuah, not many months since^ joined the
Sultan Panglima of Dclli in a conspiracy to regain
the government, and went to Delli ibr the purpose
of obtaining assistance in men, arms, and ammuni-
tion. Having obtained a supply of theses he was
proceeding down the Dclli river to return to Lang-
kat, when he, and a friend of his, named H^tMKpg^

EAST OOAST OF SUMATRA. 245

were amusing themselves shooting alligators, and a
quantity of gunpowder which had been incautious-
ly left exposed, exploded and killed them both on
the spot His eldest son, the Rajah Bindahara,
an enterprising young man, is endeavouring to
usurp the government, with the aid of the Sultan
Panglima of Delli*; and the trade of the country
has been much interrupted by these divisions, and
the hostilities in which the chiefs have been en-
gaged for some time past.

Chiefs ofLangkatf and their Clmracter. — The
present principal chie& of the country are Rajah
Ahmet, Kejuruan Muda, in whose hands the
whole executive powers of government are vested,
which is here, as in most of these states, a most
despotic one. The king has four brothers, one
older than himself, named Tuanko Wan Joho;
and the younger ones are named Tuanko Wan
Sepan, Wan Saw, and Wan Desan. The rajah
bears a good character : he is mild, and not addict-
ed to vicious habits. He is a corpulent, £ur, and
rather good looking man, with a pleasing expres-
sion of countenance. His two brothers. Wan
J^ko and Wan Sepan, are extremely dissipated,
addicted to maddat or opium, in which they in^
dulge to excess ; of feeble and emadated frames,
and altogether worthless.

King's Bevenues. — There is a difficulty in as-
certaining the revenues of the rajah, because the

246 HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF THE

duties hare been raised or lowered in the hands of
different persons* His reUtions and intimate
friends are exempt from duties altogether; and
from other individuals he frequently receives pre-
sents, instead of duties. I was infinmed by his
brothers, however, that they reckoned SOOO dollars
as the probable amount of his revenues on imports
and exports ; but I am of opinion they are consi-
derably more.

Produce. — Pepper is the grand staple, of which
the estimated annual quantity at present is about
S0,000 peculs, exported to Pinang and Malacca; but
no correct account is kept The cultivation in the
interior is rapidly increasing ; and I have no doubt*
that in the course of a year or two the produce
will be nearly doubled, provided there is a cessa-
tion of hostilities. The pepper is of a very excel-
lent quality, and has long been esteemed in the
markets of Europe and America. The natives do
not pluck it till it is well ripened on the trees ;
and a great proportion, therefore, is what is known
by the name of white pepper. It was first planted
at Lfangkat, according to the information I obtain-
ed, about eighteen years ago ; but as the people
there have little idea of time or space, this may be
incorrect In matters of this sort, and in inqui-
ries in which the exercise of memory is required,
not the smallest dependence is to be pboed on the
reports of the inliabitants ; nothing but a slight* or

EAST COAST OF SUMATRA. 247

an insult, makes much impression upon their
minds, unless indeed they have had some very
particular cause for charging their recollection with
any event or circumstance. In asking a Malay
how long it is since such an event transpired, the
universal reply is 'Mebih korang," more or less;
but this may mean ten, or twenty, or a hundred
years, according as the circumstance may have been
recent or remote.

JExporU. — There are many other valuable com-
modities besides pepper produced in this country,
of which the following may be enumerated as the
principal, viz. rattans, a great variety ; wax ;
pulses, viz, kachang iju, kachang putih, bijan;
also kachu, or terra japonica, gambir, gold, ivory,
tobacco, and paddy.

Imports.^T\ie principal imports consist of salt,
opium, coast blue cloths, Buggese sarongs and se-
rawals, European chintzes and white cloths, scarlet
woollens, Surat and Bengal carpets or rugs ; iron,
principally hoop or thin square ; steel, ironmongery
manufactured at Pinang, viz. charcoals or laige
hoes, suduk or spades, and parangs or bill-hooks
for the pepper planters ; also bra^iery, consisting of
tolams or large platters, pigdannies, seree stands
and lamps, swivels, muskets, apd gunpowder ; silk
cloths from Batubara ; also a variety of Achenese
silk and cotton cloths. There are many minor ar-
ticles too numerous to detailf always saleable here.

345 HUrrOET JkSD DESCRIPTION OF TH£

The imports must be very considerable to supply
the wants of the lai^ population in the intericyr,
and the traders from the other side of the island.

Gold. — Gold is procured in very small quanti-
ties only at Bohoro, in the interior : Mas Mudai,
or Lima Mutu, an inferior description of a light
pale colour. The mines, if they may be so caUed,
belong to Wan Pangci Lakkawa, a Malay chiefl

^/ocAaftg",— -Blachang, or Balachan, is made of
shrimps dried, pounded in a mortar, and mixed
with spices. It is exported in large quantitiea.
The slirimps (Udang) of which they make it, are
very plentiful. There arc many varieties of the
shrimp here. Tiie Udang Gala, Udang Sumut.
and Udang Pasang.

Rattans. — Of rattans, the country produces the
following varieties, \*iz.lletan Sega, Chummoo^Geta,
Semamboo, Toongkat, Mauow, Udang; Sini^ Cbin-
ching, Senang, Kra, Batu, Benang, Sallat, Sisir.
These arc used for various useful purposes, such as
making baskets, cables, and ropes for prows, spear
handles, fishing-stakes, mats, fastening the thatch
of their houses ; and the Kotan Batu, which is par-
ticularly hard and ditticult to cut, is thrown aoooa
the river, to impede the progress of an enemy, to
pass over rivers, &c. Very few rattans are export-
ed from the country, in consequence of the peppa
and other more valuable produce occupying all the
tonnage of their vessels, and being more profitable

EAST COAST OF SUMATRA. 949

than rattans, which are very bulky, and require
great trouble in their stowage.

Samboas.-'^The species of bamboos are not less
various than the rattans, and used for their houses,
for the decks of their prows, for carrying water,
making fishing-stakes, and other purposes. They
are the bamboo Bettang, large, Aou and Belankei,
also large, Nipis, Telang, Perapat, Buju China, all
green ; Gading of a reddish colour, and Duri, yeU
low. The clumps of these on the sides of the
river, and round the dwellings of some of the na-
tives, have an exceedingly pleasing and picturesque
effect.

Timber. — There is no want of timber here;
the descriptions most used for boat-building, are
the Mirbow for the bottoms of boats, Medang,
Champeda, Niri, Pedda Ayer, Tumpang, Bimgor,
and Sapang for planks, and Tolelang Pakam, and
Runtongan, for knees and timbers.

Dye'Woods.-'^The forests abound with valu-
able dye-woods, of which may be mentioned the
Kayu Abar and Kayu Lakur, resembling logwood,
and which has been sent to Sincapore, yielding a
profit of about 800 per cent, for the China market.
The roots of the Mangkudu are also used.

Sugar 7V^^.— -The anau grows throughout the
country in the greatest abundance, and produces a
sort of sugar called jaggri, to which the Malays
are very partial ^ also toddy, rope, and pens,

950 HISTORY AND IXISCRIPI'ION OF TIIK

Sugar^Cane. — Sugar-cane aeemi to thrive here
remarkably well, the canes growing; to a very laige
aiac. The manufEu^ture of sugar, howevert is not
understood* Were this process knowut there is no
doubt that laige quantities of very fine sugar
might be obtained from the country.

Fe^sels. — ^There are about SOO prows of various
sixes belonging to Langkat, from two to thirty
tons, of which last there are eight These vessels
are employed in carrying the produce of the coun-
try to Pinang and Malacca, and trading from port
to port on the coast.

Ihities. — The duties arc very moderate, and tlie
nyah seems disposed to promote commerce and agri-
culture. The following is a schedule of the duties :

Imports. — Salt, 4 dollars per coyan.

£!2^por/«.— Rice, 8 dollars per coyan ; pepper,
8 dollars per 100 gantons; rattans, 4 doUar per
100 bundles.

All other articles are free of duty.

Internal Commerce.— A vtvf extensive trade is
carried on with the Battas from the interior, who
bring down the valuable produce^ and barter them
for opium, cloths, salt, &c The principal tiaders
come from the borders of the great lake, which is
five days' journey from Seabut Abat } and the Alas
people, from the interior of Sinkel, on the west
coast, also come over the mountains to trader
bringing camphor (kapur bams), benjamin <kaoii-

CAST COAST OF SUMATRA. 251

Bian), &c The race of Battas who come from the
borders of the lake, are Tubba and Pappah. The
rajah of the Tubbas is Rajah Bindang, and Rajah
Kotansang, rajah of Pappah. There is another
tribe of Battas called Kappak, a day's journey from
the Pappahsy very numerous. The two principal
Alas chiefs are Kejuruan Bellam and Kejuruan
Jahar. They are Mussulmen. The Battas who
live a little way up the river, are, as I have said
before, of the tribe Karau Karau, a quiet indus-
trious race, fond of collecting money. They are
not addicted to cannibalism, but eat elqphants,
hogs, snakes, monkeys, &c. The principal Ejurau
Karau chiefs are Naga Saribu and Tuan Sipurba.
Quitting Langkat, the next river is
KwcUa Tappa Ktula, so called from the great
quantity of grass growing there, somewhat resem-
bling a horse's foot. This river communicates with
Sungei Langkat.

Pulo Tappa Kuda, a beautifiil little green
island, which lies off the mouth of the above river,
about a mile and half distance^ and on which, as
weU as on the main opposite, are a few scattered
houses.

L^ong' Tappa Kuda, a cape, or point, which,
with Ujong Dammar, forms a deep bay.

Salat Jaring Nalus, a small strait, formed by
l^e island and the main.

352 HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF THE

Puh Jaring Nabu^ a small ishnd near the

shore.

Sungei SdcuUmg^ so named from the great iram*
ber of Lotong monkeys.

Pulo SdoUmgf a very small island opposite.

Sungei Serapo.

Sungei Sepuchang, from the number of birds of
the name.

Puh BagaSf a very small idand near the shore.

Sungei Langkat Tuah, formerly the seat of
government, and residence of the rajah of r<angkat.

lljong Langkat Tuahy a projecting point of
land, nearly opposite to which is

Puio BerUng Tinghi^ a small rocky ishndt
surrounded by reefs to a considerable distance.
Here there is a great abundance ai shell-fish pro*
curable. This island forms a good land-mark for
entering the Delli and Bulu China rivers, and on
making the coast

Sungei Gading^ so called from the quantity of
shdl-fish ai that name found there.

Sungei Langkat Muda*

L^ong Nipah Sarangan^ so called from a
nipidi tree (the leaf of which makes the artap)^
vdiidi the Malays have a superstitious notion
that it is dangerous to touch, or even to qwak
near it

ZWiiAr Langkadei Kuningf a small bay, so call*

EAST COAST OF SUMATRA. 26$

ed from the number of yellow trees and leaves, and
a great place for fish.

Teluk Peresei or PriH. Here the pirates for-
merly were very numerous ; and in one desperate
engagement which they had» their shields fell into
the water, and hence the place retains the name of
Frisi, a shield.
Sufigei Passir PiUih.

Lljonff PcLgsir Putih, forming the point of the
Bulu China river, and so called from the extraor-
dinary whiteness of the sand.

Kwala BdawaUi so called from its being the
fiivourite haunt of pirates in former years, and the
numerous engagements which used to take place
here. The above two rivers being united, will be
described together.

<' Delli river is in latitude 8' 46^ SO'' north,
<' longitude 98^ 42' SO'' east Off the mouth of
'^ the river is an extensive mud flat, extending out
'^ in some places to five miles, and shoaling regu-
larly. The mouth of the river is about a quarter
of a mile broad, being very shallow, and having
^* only four feet in some places at high water,
but afterwards deepens to two fiithoms when en-
tered. After having proceeded up about three
^ miles and a hal^ it makes a sudden turn to the
<< south-east, and narrows vary much ; when after
the very short reaches, in some of which these is
only three and four feet water, you readh Ddli,

354 HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF THK

^ where a fresh water stream runs continiiaUy
down; at which phu» the river is only finty
yards wide. Between Delli river and Bolo
China river there is a sand-bank, extending out
about one mile, which is dry at low water ; dote
'* to it there is one and a half, two, and three
** fiithoms. The entrance into the Buln China
** river is about 300 yards wide, and is much deep-
^ er than Delli, having one fiithom on the bar at
*' low water, and when entered, three and a half
^' and four fathoms. After running up about three
** miles and a half, the river branches off to the
^ westward, having a communication with Delli
** by a channel to the south-cast, in which thoe
** is one and a half and two fathoms water. It is
high water at full and change at fimr hours : the
rise and fall is from eight to nine feet**

LlEUTENAKT RoSE.

The foregoing description of the entrance into
the Delli and Bulu China rivers is generally so
correct, that it may be superfluous for me to CDtcr
into any further description. I may remark, how-
ever, that the channel into the Bolu China liver
is somewhat deeper than laid down in LieateaaDt
Rose*s chart ; and at the point where a bank only
is laid down, there is a safe but narrow diaoael,
leading into the Delli river. To the right of the
Kwak Belawan, afier the first reach, is a small
river called Sungei Nouang ; two reaches more yoo

EAST COAST OF SUMATRA. 25S

come to the mouth of the main bFanch, called
Sungei Pangalan Bulu, which leads to Bulu Chi^
na. There is an island of considerable size called
Palo Belawan, formed by the sea, Kwala Bela*"
wan, Sungei Delli, and Sungei Kapala Anjing.
Inside of the Delli river also, are two ranall islands,
called Pulo Pengatalan and Pulo Penapassan:
and opposite to them on the left, is a small river
called Sungei Pengatalan. Two short reaches
above this, you come to Sungei Kapala Anjing to
the right, which communicates with Bulu China ;
and one reach more brings you to the entrance of
the firesh water stream of Delli.

Bulu China being the first place in order, will
demand the first attention. From the entrance,
where there is a bifurcation of the river, after about
four hours pull, and various turnings and windings,
small rivers branching off in all directions, the first
village you come to is

Kampong Bendar Sampei^ the residence of the
shabundar, containing about fifty or sixty houses.
It is a straggling village along both banks of the
river. Here all the prows wait for cargoes ; and
it is the principal trading village ; or, if I may use
the term, the seaport town of the country.

Bulu China is the next village, containing about
eighty houses. It is so called from a species nS
bamboo of that name, which grows luxuriantly in

256 HISTOUY AND DKSCUIPTION OF THE

that quarter. From hence only small caiioei» or
sampans, can ascend the river. The chiefs Snltm
Ahmet, has a house here, but does not ooDtiniie
long at a time, preferring his residence up the
country. The Pemagang Haji, next in rank to
him, lives here also. The houses are but indifier-
ently constructed.

Kallambir, so caDed from the great quaatitiet
of cocoa-nut trees, is the next vilbge. It is a
pretty little village, situated on a high bank on
ihe left side of the river. Rajah Chindra Dewi,
sister of Sultan Ahmet, and a wife of the Kejn*
ruan Muda of Langkat, is the chief in authority
here. There are about 25 houses.

Dangla, a few miles above the other, contains
about 15 houses. It is so called from a wood of
that name which grows here.

Kallumpang is so named from the number of
large trees of that sort with which the village b
surrounded. Here the young chief residea. This
can scarcely be called a village, as there aie not
more than three or four houses round the ducTs
residence ; but a great number, say 10(^ are scat-
tered amongst the woods and plantations, within
the circumference of five or six miles. Here are
extensive and beautiful pepper plantations, paddy
fields, and fruit-trees of various descriptions.

Tanjong Mangostan, from the quantity af

KAST COAST OF SUMATRA. 267

Mangostaii trees. There is a small village on the
left, of which the Orang Kaya Soonghal's brother
is chief.

Tanjong Sabdi, from the name of a man, itho,
ascending a large wax tree here, to take down wax,
fell down and broke his neck. This is a very
small village ; but there are numerous inhabitants
in the neighbourhood, scattered amongst the woods.
Soonghal, the residence of the Orang Kaya, a
large and populous village on both sides of the
river, situated on fine lofty banks. This is a place
of great trade ; and beyond this boats cannot ta^
cend. The Battas bring down the produce from
the plantations upon their backs, and deposit it
here for sale*

Tanjong Salamat, a small village, near which
is a most extensive burial-place.

Mountains. — Between Tanjong Salamat and
the mountains Sebaya Gajah and Purbesi, are
many Batta villages, at no great distance fix)m
Soonghal. These mountains are quite visible from
Soonghal.

Source of the River. — ^The river.is said to rise
from the foot of the mountain Sebaya.

Soil, — The soil of the Bulu China river is not
so ridi as at Delli. I may mention it gencfally,
between the villages of Kallambir and Soong^^,
as four feet rich black mould, and three feet c^ stiff
white clay, and a substratum of sand and gravel,

258 iriSTORY AM) UKSlRIH-riON OK THK

with fragments of granite intermixed. Every thing
seems to grow most luxuriantly ; and the cattle,
which live entirely upon grass, are in excellent con-
dition, which shows that the grass is of a nutritious
quality. I observed a very dense vapour in the
mornings, arising from the banks of the river, like
a thick smoke.

Dexvs.'^The dews are very heavy here, which
no doubt contributes so materiallv to fertiliie the
soO.

Fioodi. — When it floods, which generally hap-
pens two or three times a year, the lower part of
the country is completely overflown : the river riaea
sometimes ten feet in the confined channels ; and
boats cannot pass up and down, the current rua«
ning with the most impetuous velocity.

Population. — Within two days' journey of
SoonghaU there are said to be not less than 90,000
Battas of the tribe Karau Karau, chiefly engaged
in niltivation. During the pq>per season, the ri-
ver at the ford is almost impassable for the multi-
tudes of people who flock there with produce. The
interior of tbe country, and some tiacka of the
mountains, are reported to be very thickly inha-

Languages. — The Malays have a peenliar way
of speaking here, different in many respects bam
the other Malayan countries I have visited. Ts
words ending with the vowel f, tliey invariably add ^

EAST COAST OF SUMATRA. 269

71, — as ini and sini^ here and there ^ they prof-'
nounce inin and sinin ; and hagini^ so^ bagiaiu
There are ihany other peculiarities in the diidect
here.

Chiefs and Grovernment-^Bvln China is undei'
the authority of the Sultan Panglima of Delliy
who receives half the duty upon the pepper, oi^ one
dollar on every hundred gantons measu^^« Thef
chief, Sri Sultan Ahmet, is a minor ; and the Sha-^*
bundar Sampei receives all the duties for the betie-
iit of the young sidtan, whose father was Orang
Kaya Asim of Pangakn Bulu, and his motha'^
sister of the present Orang Kaya Soonghd. Sul-
tan Ahmet exercises all the functions attached tb
royalty in his own district ; but in matters of im^
portance, he usually takes the advice of his unde,
the Orang Kay^. The Pemagang Haji itod Sha-
bundar frequently also take a part in the confer-
ence. Soonghal, and all beyond that, as' far as the
mountains, is under the authority of the Orang
Kaya, who is quite independent, and acknowledged
BO superiors. He waa at war not long since with
the Sultan Panglima of Deffi ; and from the jta^
lous feelings which I observed in both these chief^
there is every probability of a renewal of hostSlities.
The Otang Kaya is a good looking man^ ^liboai
forty-five, but addicted to opium ; the SiiHaa
Ahmet, a fair young lad, about sixteen* Thef

300 IIISTOKY AND DtSCAIKriON Ot lilK

appear both very partial to the Engluh, and very
Imn traders.

Revenues. — ^The revenues of the Orang Kaya
were stated to me at SOOO doUars from the duty
on pepper only. He trades, however, cxtennvely
besides. The Orang Kaya receives one dollar cm
evory hundred gantons of pepper as it passes down
the riv^ ; and at Fangalan Bulu, two dolhurs more
are exacted ; of which one-half belongs to Sri Sul-
tan Ahmet ; the other to the Sultan Fanglima of
Delli. Sri Sultan Ahmet*s revenues are reported
to be about 2000 dollars annually.

Agriculture. — ^Pepper, gambir, pulse, tobaooo^
sugar-cane, and paddy, arc the principal articles of
Cultivati<Hi.

Pepper.-^The produce of pepper last year was
ftated to be about 600 eoyans, or 15,800 peculs^
^sported to Finang and Malacca ; and the cultiva-
tion is increasing rapidly. A year or two henee
the produce will be considerably more. The price
of pepper at Kallumpang and Soongbal is li dolt
lars per bahar, <Hr three large peculs ; duty thiw
dollars; and transport down the river to Kampoaig
Bendar^ brings the price to 80 dollar^ per 100
gantons, or bahar. The Orang Kaya is the princi*
pal planter. He advances to each Batta eoltafs-
tor, on his arrival from the mountains, 160 gan-
tons of paddy, and a suflSdency of salt for the yev^

EAST COAiT OF fiUMATBA. 90i

and the necessary implements of huiibandry« fit. a
large boe, a spade, a panmg, and a badcet Tbii
eontinues to be repeated for tbree years, wben tbe
Qrang Kaya obtains two-tbirds of tbe pepper, at
the low price of nine dollars per bahar, and ^
otber tbird at tbe selling price of tbe day to tra«
ders. Tbe pangulos or superintendents get the
profit of one-tbird, being tbe diflference betmsen 9
dollars and 15. Tbe vines bear after tbree years t
tbe average produce of eadi tree is one gantOD#
After sixteen years tbe vines generally die« Dry
poles are mostly used for tbeir suppcnrt, contrary to
tbe custom at Pinang and tbe west coast, where
tbe mangkudu tree is chiefly planted for their
support I saw very few of tbese trees in tbe pep*
per pkntations. Tbe gardens are kept beaotifiillf
clean. Sometimes they plant paddy, tobacco, pulsc^
and maiae, amongst the vines. Tbe cultivation of
this plant has been so fully described by tbe ele-'
gant author of tbe History of Sumatra, and is so
muoh alike in all places^ that it would be qtdte
superfluous enterii^ into any description of it in
dbis place.

Other Articlei of Bwport Cammerte, and
Price Curreni.^^The principal exports from Bulu
China consist of gamUr, which is very much e«^
teemed by tbe Malays in the adjoining countriCi.
Tbe fdlowing is a price current of the piiticipal
articles :—

Sn IlISTOEY AND DESCKIFTION OF THE

Gambir, SO dollars per laxa or 10,000; becf?
wax, 27 dollars per pecul ; slaves, from SO to 40
dollars each ; tobacco, 15 dollars per pecal ; salt, 6
dollars per 100 gantons; qnum, 76 dollars per
cake ; elephants' teeth, lai^, from 60 to 70 dollars
per pecul ; ditto small, from 40 to 55 dollars per
pecul ; rice, 5 gantons per dollar when scarce, and
10 when plenty; horses, from 15 to SO doUars
each ; kachang iju, 10 dollars per 100 gantons ;
and bijan, 5 dollars per hundred.

Duties. — TIic duties arc as follows : —

Imports. — Salt, 1 dollar per coyan ; opium. 1
dollar per ball ; and salt-fish, 2 doUars per 1000.

Exports. — Pepper, 2 dollars per 100 gantons ;
gambir, 1 dollar per laxa; wax, 1 dollar perpe*
cul ; slaves, 1 dollar each ; and tobacco^ 1 dolhr
per pecul.

No other articles of export or import oimimctce
are chargeable with duties.

There is an endless variety of goods and manu^
fiu:tures of different descriptions imported into thia
oountry ; and the taste for European .cottons pvti-
cularly, is daily increasing. The under-mentioiied
are the most commonly imported.

China-ware, coarse, consisting of plates^ cups^
and basons. Tepa Palembang, or scree stands, of
which large quantities are imported into Finang.
They are made of Kayu Booca, or bb^k wood. aiM|
neatly varnished. Kain Antilas, or kincoba, gQ|d:

EAST COAST OF SUMATRA. 203

thread, opium, white cloths, viz. muslin, cambrics,
and maddapoUam, Europe ; also coarse country
cloths, viz. murehs, shccurtams, and chelopans,
scarlet broad cloth, coarse ; Pedindang china, salt,
ironmongery, viz. parangs, hoes, and a variety of
spades, nails, &c. ; iron-hoops, gunpowder, tin, mus-
kets, and plain sabres or cutlasses, blunderbusses,
swivels, looking-glasses, and brass-plates of a varie*
ty of sorts. Besides these, they import quantities
of Buggese sarongs and serawals, Pulicat cloths,
with handsome borders; Chawals Madras, fine;
Pulicat chintzes, chiefly red ground ; Palempores,
and silk and gold cloths from Tringanu» Palem-^
bang, Slack, and Batubara. From Acheen also,
they import silk and cotton cloths, viz. serawals,
Puchu arum, Pulang ; Pulang pulangei, Pudi Ma-
mikan, JLada, Terapo, Bunga Bachang, &c.

Internal Commerce. — The internal commerce
of the country is very considerable. Traders from
Alas, Gaion, and Sinkel, and other places on the
opposite side of the island, come over with various
commodities, and carry back a variety of the ma-
nufactures enumerated above; and traders from
Soonghal carry up supplies to the numerous Bait^
states inland, six or seven days' journey.

Manufactures. — There does not appear to be
any manufisictures in the country amongst the Ma*
lays, who are all principaUy engaged in trade and
cultivation. The Battas, however, m^ke a vatjet^

264 HISTOKY AND DESCKIPTION OF THE

of doths, of ^vhich the following are tbe namei of
those inost in use.

Junjong, a red striped coarse wiry cloth, like a
shawl, 4i cubits long» by Hi wide. Silk doChs of
this pattern would sell well, if attention was paid
to the patterns.

Ragi padang, a blue striped coarse cotton dotli^
44 by 2 cubits.

Ragi Tubba, Katmanga, and Sun Suri, difibv
cut sorts of cloth of similar manufacture^ but ▼•-
nous patterns.

The Battas also make handles and aheatlis tag
creeses, swords, &c.

Boat-BuUding. — Prows are built at Kampoof
Bendar, not, however, in any considerable number.
The timber is much the same as at T^ngka^ and
the other places on tliat part of the eoast The
natives do not find it necessary to oooiioniiBe the
wood. A large tree they split in two with wedges^
and make only two planks. They do not
hewing and cutting with a hatchet or parang.

Prows. — There are not many vcskIs
to Bulu China, the Batubara people bcieg die
principal carriers of the produce.

Personal Appearance of t/te A'ofiwr.-^The
Malayan inhabitants are of a dark yellowiah
plexion, stout in general, their limbs well
their persons upright, and they walk rather
fully. They arc low in stature. The

£AST COAST OF SUMATRA* 985

their hair long, and their teeth are filed when
young, having a jet black glossy appearance. The
men pluck the hair from their chins, very few
having the smallest appearance of beards. The
women are £ur, with dark expressive eyes; but
their ears are disfigured by large holes, into which
rings of an immense size are introduced ; the poor-
er classes contenting themselves with a ring of
wood, or a piece of plantain leaf rolled upi which
fills the aperture. The richer classes who can af-
ford it, wear very handsome rings of gold filagre.

Dress. — ^The men are usually dressed in short
bajoos or jackets, of European chintz or white
doth, with Achenese serawals or trowsers, a Bug-
gese sarong or tartan petticoat, and on their head
a batik or European handkerchief. A handker-
chief which contains their betel and seree, is usu-
ally hung over their shoulder, and a kris fastened
on the left side. The women wear long bajoos of
blue or white cloth or chintz, with a cotton or silk
sarong. Their hair is neatly fastened by long
gold, silver, or copper pins, according to their ranL
The higher order, in addition to the dress I have
described, wear a belt or zone of silk or other doth,
fiistened round the waist with a gold pinding, and
a handkerchief dung over the 1^ shoulder. The
dresses of all the Malays are so much alike in
almost all countries, and have been already so fiiUy

9M HISTORY AND UESCKimON OF THE

that it is unnccessarv to enter more at
length into this subject.

Battas. — ^The Battas in the interior of Bnlu
China are of the tribe Karau Karau/ a dark ill-
featured race. They are below the middle stature
generally, and not so stout as the Malays. They
are much addicted to opium-smoking» drinking
toddy extracted from the anau tree and other
palms, and gambling ; but withal industrious, their
avaricious habits and fondness for money, indndng
them to exert themselves. The day is spent prin-
cipally in labour, and a great part q( the night in
the indulgence of those vicious propensities I have
described. They do not enjoy much sleep, and
are not particularly nice in their food ; snakes, alli-
gators, rats, monkeys, and elephants, being gene-
rally eaten, although they have plenty of pigs; poul-
try, goats, &c They are dressed chiefly in Uuc
cloths from Madras or Bengal ; and some of them
wear coarse cloths of their oun manufiusturc, whidi
they throw over their shoulders like a scarf, very
few wearing bajoos or jackets. On their head
they wear a small stripe of finer blue doth. They
have all bangles on their arms, of gold, silver, or
copper, according to their means ; and carry eftdi «
smaU mat bag, with their seree, flint, and dii*
roots, in the use of which latter they are immode-
rate. The tobacco is rolled up in a smaU bit of

EAST COAST OF SUMATRA. 36^

leaf^ and it is called a roko. They are generally
armed with a pedang or cutlass, and a tundbo
lada, a small knife which they carry on their left
sid^ as the Malays do their kris.

Marriage. — The marriage and other ceremo*
nies here are much the same as in other Malayan
countries. Any man who can afford to support
them^ may have four wives. If one is cast off
from misconduct or barrenness, he may supply hei
place by another. There is no limitation to the
number of concubines. The Rajah Sebaya Lin-*
gah» the Batta chief, has a wife in every direction
in the country, and concubines innumerable.

Offences and Punishments. — The crime of
adultery is punishable by the death of both parties.
The power of the chief indeed, in almost all cases,
is quite absolute. The yoiuig sultan, not long
since, ordered two men to be stabbed, because they
were tardy in following him upon some excurdcm.
It is to be lamented that so much power is givm
to youth.

Notions ofRicfies. — The Orang Kaya Soong-
hal some time ago took an account of his money,
by measuring it in a ganton measure, instead of
taking the trouble of counting it. A Malay, how-
ever, is reckcmed rich here when he has amassed
two thousand dollars ; for their excessive indolence
prevents them from collecting much money. The
seafaring people work perhaps a few months in

t68 HISTORY AND DKSCaiimON OF THE

the year« making a voyage or two to Pioang, and
^end the rest of their time in indolence. Thejr lay
out hurge sums in marriage feasts, jewdlety, md or^
naments for their wives and children ; also in gold
betel-boxesy swords, and creeses mounted with gold.
Their household furniture does not cost mndL
The Battas, on the other hand, are extremely pe*
nurious and saving ; and being indnstiioiis at the
same time, they accumulate large sums, and make
no show. The moment a Malay beeomcs posses*
sedofa little money, he entertains as many at-
tendants as he can, and he is accounted rich or
respectaUe according to the number of his fid*
lowers.

Dtieosef.-^Swellings of the throat called wens^
are very common amongst the inhabitants who life
high up the river. They are generally s up pos e d
to be occasioned by the foggy atmoqihere^ the fi^gs
being very dense. The morning after my arrival
at Soonghal, I felt myself affected with cold, and
a difficulty of respiration, which iB a very pievailing
complaint here. Headaches, fisversi and bowid
complaints, are the roost common, and a very few
cases of leprosy. The young diildren an often
covered with idcerous eruptions, wUeh, howcfw;
leave them after two or three years. They hnse
a great variety of medicinal herbs and plants mmm
of which are described in my diary, as I met with
tliem in tlic woods. The forest, indeed, ahonads

KAST COAST OF SUMATRA. 2^9

with them ; but possessing, as I do» but a very
imperfect knowledge of botany, I shall not at-
tempt a particular description of them, but leave
this for a more scientific traveller.

Antiquities. — At a place called Kota Bangun,
three days' journey up the river, there are the re-
mains of a stone fort, with the figures of men and
tigers carved upon the waUs. The size of it is
represented to be about 60 feet square. The na-
tives have no historical records regarding this an-
dent fortification.

CTiurches.-^There are places of worship called
mi^d, greja, or bendar sa, at all the Malayan
villages, and a number of priests are entertained.

Snakes. — This country abounds with a great
variety of snakes (ular), some of them of an im-
mense sise, and beautifully marked. These snakes
are to be met with in most of the other states
along the coast, and are not peculiar only to Bulu
China ; but as I met with some, and obtained my
information at this place, I shaU now describe
them. The principal are detailed in the following
list:—

Ular tiong, about the thickness of a man's wrist,
spotted blaek, green, and yellow. Sawa or sao,
which the natives describe as being marked like tf
diiudy or Surat waist-band, four £Eithoms long, aad
as thick as a Nebong tree. This is the boa-eon-
strictor, which grows to an amazing sise here.

9/0 HISTORY A.'^U DKSCHIl'TION OI* TlfK

Sedon angin» from eiglit to ten feet long, anrl sm
thick as a wrist, with a red mouth and blackuih skin.
Panti masa» about nine feet long, and of a yellow
colour. ^lura, a small snake, only a foot long^
darkish colour, interspersed with white spots. It
^its venom. Fucha, a beautifiil snake, aboat
three feet in length, of a light pea-green colour.
Bakow, very small, four or five inches long, so call-
ed from its changing its colour when the leaves of
the bakow tree change, being green, yellow, or red,
according to the colour of the leaves. Baka tubu,
a small snake, black and white spots. Sidi, thick
as a man's middle finger, three feet long, mixed
green, white, and yellow. Bidei, a flat snake,
nine feet long, and as thick as a child's wrist Na-
gala, with a skin like gold, and of a most prodi-
gious size, 'flic natives assured me indeed, that
they have seen them as large as a moderate siaed
cocoa-nut tree, and they devour bufialoea, tigerir
and other largo animals ; but they are ever prone
to exaggeration.

Fresh Water Fish. — llie rivers and smaD
lakes in the interior arc well filled with an infinity
of fiah } but tliey arc not equal to the salt wster
fish, being fnll of small bones. I shall not at^
tempt more than a mere enumeration of their
names : balat and dondang, eels, sepoui. semndOf
seridan, paitan, suppat, tcbakong« selouan, mcn-
mata, all small ; bclidn, nuian, singal, baouiy,r

ITAST coast of SUMATRA. 27^

middling size ; and sebaran, tappa, J^abui, kuppar,
buju, toman, niri, membang diawan, alliarge. .

Concluding Remarks on Btdu China.'-^Tbe
country of Bulu China is rich and fertile beyond,
description, and contains within itself an endless
profiision of the most valuable products. It abounds^.
with all necessary and useful plants, trees, aninuds^
fish, &c. requisite for the support or convenieBee of.
its inhabitants ; and is capable of supplying, a
population of twenty times the number with the^
mcians of subsistence. It is indeed a most pre-
cious i^t, and might, under proper managementy
be turned to vast advantage.

History of DeUi. — Delli must have beeti a
place of some impoltance in former timeis, as it is#
mentioned by Marsden as .having thrown off its
alliance to Acheen,. as far back as in the year.
1669 ; and in other places as having been invad-
ed by the king of that country at difierent periods^
The early history of this state, however, like, that
of most of the others on the coast, is involved in
almost impenetrable obscurity; no correct records
of past events being kept by any of the people of
the place ; and where an attempt has been ifiade
by any of them to trace its rise and progress, there
Ib so much of fiction and superstitious tradition
mixed up in the narrative, that it is difficult to
separate them, or to arrive at any satisfactory oon-

278 HIJSTOUY AND DtlSCRIPllON OF TH£

elusion. The Mahyt are groaily tupentitioQt ;
and many of them place implidt leliance in tiadth
tuma 80 absurd and superstitiousy that diejr will
not bear repetitioa.

VUlage$.F^The first village in the Delli rivwt
after paadng Pompong, or the plaoe of andiot a g e
outside the firesh water stream, is called Tiahuhan ;
a misoraUe assemblage of small huts» eccupied by
the people belonj^ng to piowsy and employed in
building boats.

KampoDg Aid, or Uir, is the next, m pietfey
laige stia^^ng Tillage, on both sides of the river.
Here the Sultan Panglima reddes.

Kamprag Tangah, the next, is a small village
on both sides of the river.

Kampong Besar is a large and popoloos village^
and the houses are well built and eonvenicBt Hie
hoilses are not dtuated dose to each other, bat
scattered about in the space of one and m half or
two mOes, amongst dumps of cocoapmit and other
fruit-trees.

Kamprag Kota Dalam, Rantan WiKmhing^ Mi*
bar Bajuntd, Ta^jong Futus, Kota Bangai^ Pkdo
Barian, and Tandd Kataran, are all veiy inaigni-
flcant pbees ; some of them having only three er
four houses together, but scattered ahout aleng
both banks of the river.

Lahmg Kota Jawa, the venudna of an old Jik

KikST CQAn OF 8UMATM. W

r$mm ftrtifioitiMt whae the lukM hid a large
eMHupiBeni htdft in fitting with the Rigeh

Polo Beriaiit a tmall village oeeepied by the
chieC iriio has btely been at war with the eultanof
OdlL

Meidan»^ a tillage oontaining SOO inhalntantiy
thiee hotm^ joainey from Kota Jawa.

Bubaia oontaim aleo about SOO peofde. At
this pb^e the river Kesaran fidls into the Ddtt
etmun on the kit Then ecmie the fidkwing
small villigeSy via. I fsbwhan Sangk^ Kampong
Baia» Am Boogko^ Ujong Gorab^ Jabber, Bida
Aour» and DeUi Tuahp whieh are dose under the
mountains Sebaya and Sukanalu, The population
of Battas in this district is about 5000,

Up the small river to the right, is Kampong
PnloBmring.

Sungei Sqnit ia another small river, eontainiuf
a population of abont 100 Malays.

Songst Sinkar, anotiber small stream, with a si-
mibr snmbcr of inhabitants. Up both tihose ri-
vers tin«oie is Kmnd»

To the right, diere are two other kaaqpo^gfc
«dlsd Fennmaran and Pnlo Lada, atthfftetef
tfaeUUs. The Batta viUi^es are very nunMROM
bdow and upon the hills.

Nmm tfCki^,mmi Cftotwcfer^The SMUm
Pani^hBa Mangidar Alum Shaht as the chief is

274 IIISTOHY AND DESCKIPTION OF THE

Styled, was finrmerly Tuanko AmaL He is the
first chief of the ooantry who ha» been so denf^
natcd, and obtained this dignity firom the imjah of
Slack abont ten years ago. The sultan has two
step-brothers, named Tuanko Wangka and Tu-
anko Wan Kumbang, and a son, the Sultan Mudhr
an interesting lad» about fourteen yean of age.
The sultan is a respectable elderly looking man,
very much disposed to conciliate the Britiah go-
▼emmcnt, and to encourage traders reacn'ting to hit
dominions. He is represented, however, by nuuqr
of his own subjects, and I believe not without ju^
tio^ to be extremely avaricious, and not always
equitable in his proceedings, when money ia in the
way. He is not addicted to any vidooa pnqpenaU
ties, such as opium-smoking and gambling ; and
he is perhaps, with all his fiulings, as lespectaUe a
chief as most Malays that are to be met with.
His mn promises to be a fine yoang man, being of
a remarkably mild and placid diqioiition, and very
manly and correct in his conduct and dqnnlinmt
The sultan*8 elder brother, Wangka, is nthcr&ot-
ish ; but he trades considerably, and is a bannkai
creature. Wan Kumbang, the younger hrotlier,
ia addicted to opium, and does not bear quite m>
good a character as the others. Thar eaoeasive
partiality for trade, and desire to monopdiie tibe
whole, occasions frequent disputes with the nei^
bouriug chiefs ; and they arc omtinually engaged

KAfiT COAST OF SUMATRA. 976

in war ; but their battles are never very sangoiiiary.
There is a great deal of bravado^ but not mudi
fightiog.

JBoundarie9.^^Uei}i is bomided to the north*
west by Soogei Bnbalan, to the north-east by the
ssst the south-west by Sungei Tuan^ and the sooth*
cast by the great Batta state^ Seantar.

Authority of the SuitatL— The sultan of Delli
daims the sovereignty over Dellit Bolu China,
Langkat, Percboot, and other intervening plaees.
The right of his authority is fully acknowledged
by all these states, except Langkat^ with whieh
eountry he is now at war, and is supporting the
son c£ the former king, who was dethroned by the
rajah of Stack a few years ago. A spirit of avarioe^
and not a mere desire to reduce the n^ah of JLang<L
kat to feudatory sulmiission, and to pay a small
tribute to Siack, united to projects of commeicial
monopoly, are, I suspect, the propelling causes and
prindpal inducements tot his going to war, and ex-
pending la^ sums of money in arms and ammu-
nition.

GoDfTfUMfit— The sultan is supreme; but he
has eight ministers whom ho admits to his coun*
sels» and who are generally consulted when a ma^
IcfiMrtor is to be tried; when war is to be wiq^ad;
and upon all matters of especial importance jdm*
nected with the government of the country. Thoy

976 HISTORY AND DE8CBIPTION OF THE

«ie ehaiged alio with the duty of aeciiig wnUom
of execution upon any aiminali, cairied into cfbcL
These ministers are, Noquedah Unguh, styled Tin*
dal Timbaloo^ Wauk Wauk, Salin. Tommis^
Dauk, Wakil, Datu Daris, and Pugdu Kaa-
pong. Betides these, are the shabundar ( Ahnod)^
or mercantile man, who manages evoy thing niat*
ing to commerce ; and mth the aid of m ftmale
Mate Mate (Che Lant), coUecta the dotiea iqpoii
imports and exports. There are other inferior ofr
lieers, via. Pangulus, Pang^imas, and Mata Afata»
who perfbnn any services the sultan may dinet
them. The pangulus and pangiimas ewnmand
kubus or forts, and a certain number of men ia
war. It is then that they are princ^Ndly employed.
They aet also as messengers^ and eairy letters to
dtihrent states. If the sultan dies^ aiid the 1s§b1
■neeessor to the throne is absent, the Toaa H^
Chant, or KaU (the chief priest) acta and perfama
aD the functions of royalty.

Cffemsei and Punuhments^—ThOt is punisk
aUe by death ; or if a man is caught in a honsa in
the act of thienng, he may be put to dsntfi en the
spot So also a man found under dto sattaBls
house, is lulled instantly. Murder, using the
king^s name, or forgery, and taking m mulk wifo^
are also capital crimes. Using the king^s namo is
punishable in the irst instance by cutting off Aa

XAIT OOAIT or SUMATRA. 997

tMgM. If a thief fliei to the nfmlit ukna^Adigm
hk aime^ and tolidts protectkm, be obtnn p««
doB» but becomei a sbiTe fiir lifis.

Tbehr mode of eteeution is truly h ai b awm and
horrible. Tliey put the crimiiial into a hole^ tie
both his hands, and make him kneel dovnu Hie
eseoationer then stabs him with a qiear on the left
dkmlder, the criminals hands are loosened^ and the
sKecutiQiier Jumps upon him, presses hfan into the
hole, and eoren him over with earth inststtta*
ueouiiy*

If two pec^le fight, and Idood is drawn on tiie
head, the partj who has inflicted the wound pays
eight dollars, a goat, one cabong of white ditht and
a bundle of seree ; the goat is sacrificed, and the
priests are assembled to pray. If the body is
wounded, the fine is fimr dollars, a fi>wl, ycUow
riee^ and seree. F<Mr smaller offences, flogging widi
a ratten is the usual punishment

Behghn. — ^The rdigion of the Mslays is pure
Isbmism. There sie fire priests at Drifi. The
KaH is the head of the diurch, then the Imam,
KaliC Bihd, and Panguhi Misgid. Under theee
are msny inferior priests, celled Hajis, friio ha?e
made a pilgrimage to Mecca. The five above-
mentioned settle every thing connected with r^
gion, marry, and perfinrm the fimeral rites. They
are supported by eontribudons, prindpafly of grfein*

Ptaca of Worship. — The moeques are nume-

278 HISTORY AND DKSCIilPTION OF THE

roiu^ though of rade construction. At each of
the villages there is a place of worahip, under the
designation of Mesjid, Gre}a» Ruma Sambsyangv
or Bandar Sa. The inhabitants wpfpen idigbusly
disposed ; and, as fiur as I could discovery regular
and fervent in their devotions.

Skmrce of the River. — ^The Delli rber takes its
rise at the foot of Gunong Knali and Sukanalu»
two lofty mountains which may be seen from the
sea in a dear day.

Soil. — Near the sea the land is low and swampyt
and the soil is nothing but mud. The soO be-
tween Karopong Alei and Kampong Besar, ia a
surface of rich black mould upon day. Higher
up, however, the banks continue to rise, and the
ground becomes well elevated, when the first stm*
tum is a fine dark mould, from six to eight het in
depth ; next, a stratum of day three or fimr fixC,
and the substratum of sand and gravd.

Agriculture. — I do not know so productive a
country as DeUi, considering the number of its
inhabitants ; nor is there perhaps one on the hat
of the globe possesnng so many natural advantBgea^
The productions are numerous and valuable ; and
the Imre mention of their names alone^ would oe-
enpy a large space. I propose, however, entoing
into some little detail upon this subjeet» whidi may
prevent the necessity of repetition in tnatbig oif
other countries.

EAST COAST OF SUMATRA. QJ9

Pepper. — The exports of pepper from Delii in
the year 1822, to Malacca, Pinang, and Singapore,
ivere about 1000 coyans, or 26,000 peculs, of
ISS^lbs. avoirdupois. Such at least was the esti*
mate I received ; but I am disposed to think this
somewhat exaggerated. There is no doubt, how-
ever, that if peace is restored, and the produce of
the interior is not diverted to other channels, the
exports of the state will soon exceed that quantity*

Paddy. — This primary article of subsistenee in
all Malayan countries, is cultivated at Delli to an
extent barely sufficient for the use and consump-
tion of its inhabitants, none being exported from
the country ; and in bad seasons, they import from
other quarters. In the low or wet ground paddy is
sown at the setting in of the rains, in the month
Dul-ha-jah, corresponding with October, after-
wards transplanted, and is reaped in five and a
half months. The species called pulut, whidb I
saw at this place, grows to the height of six and
eight feet, and yields a most abundant crop. The
following is a list of the different sorts of rice
cultivated in the low ground of Delli, and the
adjoining states, viz. sebisitang, jambei, putih,
pidut putih, lambut, mera, setukang, pulut etam,
pulut kuppa, radin, serajah lela» santapan, mor-
hurm, jarangmas, and changei opey. The paddy
^hich is planted in the high imd dry ground is

SBO U18TOET AMD D£8CR1PT101I OF THE

oiled iikn, and pat into the gnmnd in the iimbUi
Jemadil-ekhir or ApriL It ripens in fimr menthii
The natives plant it with a dibUe^ dropping fimr
or five seeds into each bole, at the disteDee of thiee
^narten of a eufait Of this paddj^ rery fitde ia
grown at Delli.

Totacca— Tobacco ia eulti?ated by both Aa
Malays and Battas. They sow the seeds in small
beds, and transplant it in twenty days, in nws
distant abont two cubits. In fimr mondia it ii»
pens. After two months the tops are ent» idiieb
gives strength and increased aae to the leaver
When the phint has seven leaves, they begin to
gather them : the sign is the leaf drooping, and
assuming a brownish hue. The nativea pluck one
or two leaves at a time, according as they nu^
have approached to maturity; eipose them to the
■uu four days, and then padL them np in small
baskets, in which packages the tohaoeo is eaported.
If the seeds are required to be prsservedy of eonm
the tops of the plants are left nntonched.

Other Ariidti of CWMuitiofk— The sugar-
cane, tnbbu, is cultivated to a considcfable SKtsnt,
the natives consuming large quantities in its nsr
state. The canes are very large and eiesllcnt.
Cotton, kapa% and maiie or Indian eon, jagong»
are also phmted extensively; and the Mlowi^g
varieties of pulse, kachang, are ahmidant, viBi

JEABT COAST OF fUMATKA. flU

kacbang etatn, putih, and iju, or Uadc, whit^ and
green peas ; also kunchar, pelissa, sapat, parang,
tenut, and bijan.

Samboos.^-^The villages are anrronnded with
bamboos, bambu or bulu \ and even the wooda ai6
fill! of them, growing luxuriantly without any ool-
trvation. Here I found the under-mentioned va-
rieties : Bambu Telang, Nipis, Armeniah, Bdan*
key, Orduri, China, Perapat, Buttong, Tubbal,
Gading, and Selang.

Fruits. — Almost every species of tropical tsvi\
is to be found here in the greatest plenty. The
plantations of cocoa-nuts and betel-nut are very
extensive, and others equally abundant Jacks,
dorians, mangoosteens, guavas red and white, rose
i^les, lansehs, machang or wild mangoes, man-
goes a great variety, pomegranates, ramboostan,
bread-fruit, chempada, bilimbing, cashew applet
tamarinds, pine-apple, and papaw. Of plantains,
pisang, there are fourteen species, viz. pisang ra-
jah, susu, iju, kelat, batu, janki, amas, suasa, buey,
satawa, abu, cheorian, nasi ayer, and bunga ; ai^
the varieties of <nranges, limau, are equally msmb^
rous, Limau manis or sweet orange, small thin
skinned, is the best, and resemUes the Chilli^
orange ; mupurat, sundei, krat seritang, nipis, m^
jah, and selang; also gaddang, the shaddock or
pumalo; limau pagar, the lemon; Hmau karbsu,
the dtron ; an^ kapas, limes.

283 HISTORY AND DESCUU'TIU.N OF TIIK

Flowers, — The air is scented with the sweetest
perfumes, from the iDnumerablc flowers planted ia
the villages, and even growing spontaneously in
the woods. Those most prized by the Malays
the bunga malore, tanjong« cliumpaka, sena,
danga, pakan, china, indralasama, angariC sesun-
glapa, pedangdan, baru» scrouei, and bakong. A
volume might be filled in describing these, and the
endless variety of other useful flowers in this quarter;
but as some of these have been fully described by
Marsden and other writers, it would be a needless
repetition to enlarge further in this place.

TinAcr and Vegetable Proiluctiofu,-^ No eomi*
try in the world contains a greater variety of tias-
ber, and uscfid or ornamental trees ; and I shaD
attempt only a brief enumeration of the most v^
markable. Kayu puuti is a wood of which the
tree bears a green fruit, which is wholesome to emt,
and the timber is used for planks for houses. Ran-
gas is a large tree of a rcildish colour, not unlike
mahc^ny. It is so plentiful here, ss to be used
for the planks of prows. At Pinang it is princi-
pally used for furniture and cabinet-work. Alafaan
is most commonly used for prow-oars. Bungor, m^
dong, dalu dalu, tampang, merbow, changei, and
merantei, are the best for prow-planks. Rintwi
gan is crooked timber for knees and timbers of
prows. .Foliar, a hard wood, black grain, used fiv
house-posts, prou-.tinibcrs, iVe. Niri batu, for prow*

EAST COA8T OF SUMATRA. 268

jdanks, is a beautifiil grained wood, somewhat re-
sembHng rose^wood. Niri bunga is of a whitish
colour, and employed for the same purpose. Dam
and perapat, for prow-timbers. Bakow, very hard
and heavy, of which the anchors are chiefly made.
It is difficult to work, and breaks the edges of
the best tools. Langkadei for small masts ; tumus
for oars ; chingam for fences ; nebong, a species of
palm well known, and used in all Malayan coun-
tries for house-posts, flooring, &c. grows here in
the greatest abundance, hard and durable. Nipah,
the leaf of which makes the artaps and samiers
ibr the native houses. Sirdang for the same pur-
pose. Chemalakian, a fruit which, if eaten, occa-
sions excessive pain in the stomach, and is used to
produce abortion by the women who are averse to
rearing a &mily. Jellatang, the leaf of which
stings, and creates an eruption which continues
several months, attended with great pain. Batu
batu, the juice of which, if it touches the eyes,
causes excessive pain and inflammation, and fre-
quently total blindness.

Vegetables. — Of the yam or potatoe species,
ubi, there are many sorts cultivated here. Ubi
gadang. the yam, growg to a very large 8be. Ubi
manis, mera, biru, and pulih, or red, blueish, and
white sweet potatoes, ubi lilit and kaladi. Pump-
kins, labu, of four or five different sorts, madeki or
water melons, trpng besar and kechil, or large

9M HISTOEY AND DEaCUPTIOlf OF THK

aad small brinjawlsy tinKm or caemnben, hmmmag
batta or small onions, are all coltivated by Ae b
habitants. All these require care, bat the
abound with a vast variety of herbs, roota^ and
leaves, which are used by the natives as vcgetaUfli.
The following may be enumerated, via. dans km*
tal, paku p^gaga, sedapuhm, titik tunbangaB,
puchu puchu, byam, kangkong, puchu gadong^baB
bitik, kumbakong, guli guli, katimahar nasi,
susun, bidong bidong, kundar, pitula, lio^ dami
mango, puriali, juraggi, kemangi, tinpfing^
tuppoos, kumiah, and karunda.

AfiimaU. — ^The animals of Sumatra have al-
ready been fully described ; and I am not awna
that there are on the east side of the idaad nj
very remarkable species which is not well
to the naturalist. The elephants, gi^, are
numerous and large. Immense quantitiei of hoy
might be obtained, if the natives were VM
and skilful in ensnaring and d e s tro y in g
The rhinoceros, badak ; tigers, riman ; elk»
gatlang and palandok, small deer; 1m^ bahi}
civet cat, musang ; wild bufialoes, kurban jakng;
horses, kuda ; bears, bruang; porcupine^ kadbkt
guana, biawa ; squirrel, tupei ; diminiitive dear
called kanchil and kichang; sloth, pnkaag; iyw
ing squirrel, tupei terbang; goats, kambiiig; asid
numerous other animals, oecupy the wooda. Of
the monkey tribe there are many spedea.

£▲» GCU8T OF aUMATEA. 9tt

a Urgd blaek mmkey, long anned, long liair» with
a gr^dih head; kara, a fmall reddish or cdive
fanwn coloured monkey ; kara laut or aea moakejrt
hrown, middle sized^ long tail : these are found*
as their name implies^ near the months of the
rivers, dose to the sea. Bruk» a Isrge roddidi
skinned short haired monkey, which the Malays
say can be instructed to buy fish» fiie guns^ and eat
coeoa-nuts. Mundi resembles the hruk, but ot a
amaller siae. Tingiling, reddish colour^ not very
Isige, long nails, and long taiL These are ?evy
▼icious, and bite and scratch.

Birds.'^Few productions in animated Q«tme
have more forcibly excited the admizationt and at-
tracted the observation o£ the naturalist, than the
qplendid variety of the feathered tribe in the troj^
eal countries ; and the extreme interest which haa
been taken in this branch of natural history, pie-
dudes the possibility d my adding any tiling new
relating to it I shall content m]rself there&cer
with a brief enumeration of such as are £aimd ip
:the east coast of Sumatra. Of the dove species^
there are some extremely beautifuli via. puMi
punei tanah, gading, bakpw, sioodan and dann»
piindpally greenish plumage ; also balhun^ a little
glfy dore, and pigeons perapati, whidi are of a
veiy lai;ge size, and delidoua eating. Those mml^
esteemed for their notes, are the nuisei or dial-
bird, purling, mirbow, and enow enov. There

2Mi IlISTOHV AND D£SCRiPTION CA' THE

are many small birds of the sparrow species ; pipit
piurang» pipit piit, pipit uban, pipit etam, and
pipit kambing. The angang, or rhinoceros bird,
or horn-bill, is a large bird, with Uack pku
mage, intermixed with white and yellow, and has
a bill of an immense size. Lang, the kite^ and
nasuTy the vulture, are £u too numeroiia finr the
poor inhabitants, and are very destructive to the
poultry. Burong udang, or king's fisher, a beau-
tiful bird, with light blue plumage, intermixed
with scarlet, and has a long yellow UlL The
dendaug ayer, burong lembu, and burong kam*
bing, of the stork species, are very numerous. The
following were also mentioned to me by the Ma-
lays as being plenty ; but my limited stay in the
country did not admit of my inspecting them, or
bringing specimens with me ; and as I have not
the smallest pretension to a scientific aoquaintaooe
with this branch of natural history, I shall ^ve
the names as I received them. Burong fidur,
peragam, berako, pontialow, icaOt ayam etam^
belaian, sisak, tanan, bian, perak, kumanakaiH
timpcra, pamal, bingkaku, bongow, taigong^
bintik bintik, ingal ingal, nm rua, tanow,
amba graha, chew chew, bukik, chaman, pong-
hu, jampoo, tionglaut, sepanga, itik ayer, ga»
gar, libis, merakaki, cbinchula, gelutik» tioagL
I do not tliink that the plumage of any of tUi
infinite variety of the feathered tribe is employed

CAST COAST OF SUMATRA. 9B7

fi« any useful or oniamental porpofe ; nordolim*-
gae it could be turned to any account as an ar-
tide of export commerce. There are some birdi
resembling the bird of paradise ; but no real ones
are found upon any part of the island, I bdie? e.

JFiifh^rhe sea abounds with fi^ of which the
jiollowing are the most ccHnmonly caught >— The
alligator, buaya, are dangerously numennis, and
grow to a very large size. The saw fish, in parang,
are also very plenty, large and destructive. Of
the skat^ pari, there are the following species:
paridaun, bibir, lang, parsa, bating sampat, dedap,
rimau. lumpei, tanjong, and lulut. Of sharksr
there are the iu kras, parang, nunei, rumbas,
and many others. Besides these fish, arc the dufi
ctam, duri kuuiug, senoho, tai\jar, sehunpei, pa-
rang parang, genpoo, kintang, belamu, keeha, ta-
gahcho^ salar, temunong, tcraboo padi, maharowi,
gahuua, daun baru, and beliamata ; and the under*
mentioned, which having had an opportunity of
seeing, I shall give a brief descriptioii ofl Teras^
san, a large fisli like a salmon in shape, reddish
colour, delicious eating ; telingah gsjah or ele-
pliaut^s ear, a laige round fish, like a pomfret, 1&
inches in length ; tubbal pipi, somewhat similar
to the above^ but not so large, of a reddish cohniry
very fine ; bawal chirmin or white pomfret, well
known ; kitaug, a spotted fish, like the pomfi:et in
shape; talang, very hke a mackerel, 16 indbsa

388 HISTORY AND DESCUIPTION OF THE

long ; tingiri, exactly lesembliiig a mackad» but
laiger ; magODg, a laige wide mouthed fish, with
many large fins; korau, a fish like a aea-trao^
about two feet long, particularly delicate ; piidho
purio, a short dark coloured fish; duri patih^ a
small wide mouthed fish, with long filma like
a beard, and very finny ; pari patukar, a ^eciea
of skate, eight inches bug ; puput, a white fish
IS inches long, like a small sea-trout All thcst
are excellent eating, except the kitang. The air
bladder or swim of the tcrussan, called by the
natives lupa lupa, is a great article of trader and
sells for 80 dollars per pecul at Pinang. It is
dried in the sun. The Chinese make great use of
it The best fish for roes are the trobo, tunbirv
korow, and siakup.

ShelUFuh. — Great qiumtities of shemsh an
found near the islands. The turtle, kntong ; toe*
toise, kura kura; prawns, udang, of many aorta;
oysters, teram, guding ; crabs, katam ; and many
other descriptions of shell-fiih, are to be fcund hi
abundance.

Modes of Catching Fish. — ^There are mmsf
ways of catching fish. Jermal ii the fishing stako^
which are generally a few miles outdde the rivon
at sea ; puckat, a drag-net of a hundred
in length ; bulat, a long hedge of thin uplit
boos, placed on the shallow mud banks ; Idsn, m
drag*net thirty fathoms long ; jala, a smaU nek

EAST COAST OP SUMATRA. 989

which they throw in ' with their hands ; jaring
and ranjong, other sorts of drag-nets ; rawei, a
long chain of hooks fastened to two poles at a dis-
tance ; kail, a fishing line and hook.

Arts and Industry. — ^A few prows are huilt
at Delli. This, and clearing the woods for plant-
ing, and navigating thdr vessels, is the principal
occupation of the men. The women plant and
beat paddy, carry water, spin, weave, and dye
doths, and even manufacture gunpowder.

Manufactures. — ^The manufactures of DelK
scarcely deserve to be mentioned. The women
make a few articles of clothing in silk and cotton.
Kain kampow, ragi beretam, putih dan merah, s
sort of tartan sarong or petticoat of cotton ; gnbbar
ber kampong, like a large petticoat, also of a tar-
tan pattern, is of silk or cotton, and used for sleqi-
ing in ; sapit udang, a coarse cotton doth, alter-
nate white and red square spots, used for children's
wear. The Batta cloths brought down the coun-
try, are ragi tiga, ragi suri suri, junjong, and ra^
Seantar, striped different patterns.

Tb give a Polish or Gloss to Cfoth.-^Fot the
porpose of giving a fine glossy appearance to sa-
rongi and other cloths, the natives use a Aett
called knrup, in the aperture of which they iniMt
one end of a piece of split nebong, which isrery
pliant and elastic. The other end is inserted nitd
a cross piece of wood in the ceiling of the house,

:2Q0 HISTORY AND DKSCKIPTIOX OF THE

and the nebong being cat like a bow, the prennre
on the doth is heavy. A peraon continues ntbbing
the doth for several hours, until it has aeqpiired a
beautiful polish like glazing.

JFiasking. — ^The natives rub the doth fPith the
juice of the akar butik, and then beat the dothct
oQ a piece of wood» with cold water. They use
topper irons, which give a fine polish to the doth.

DUeases and Medickic.-^'Ihe cholera mmboa
appeared at Ddli a few years ago, and canned off
a considerable proportion of the inhabitanta. The
juice of the mangoosteen rind, which is a powers
fill astringent, was used successfully. The small-
pox breaks out once in three or lour years. The
Malays dread this more than any oUier dinrasc-
lliey cure it by the continual immenion of the
patient in cold water, mixing the flowers bunga
puckan, malore, mora, salaguri, pulut pnlutt and
rumput kampei, to bring the small-pox to a head.
When broken, they mix pounded rice with the leaf
of the barimbang, a small tree which grows on the
margin of the river, in the mud, of a pow e ri ii lly
astringent quality. They rub the body with Ihe
mixture, and drink water, in which the bones of
geese, ikan gajah muna, and the wood cUbj^uum^
junghi, and belarangbang, have been infused. Tins
decoction is drunk to prevent the disease goi^§
inside.

Literature and Books.^The Malays haw

EAST COAST OF SUMATRA. 2Bi

many books relating to religion, war, history, and
the laws, or adat adaC, poetry, &c. Several of the
inhabitants are well informed on these subjects, and
devote a considerable portion of their time to study.
The principal books treating of religion, under the
general designation of Masalilal Muftadin, are the
Koran, Minkat, Seratal, Mastakim, Masalilal, Be^
daia, Sirat, Oosool, Tipalasaral, Jermi Arab, Ta-
juit, Surat-ul^'Kiamat.

Historical, Biographical^ Romances. — Of his-
torical and biographical works, and tales of xo*'
mance, called Hakayat and Cheritra, those most
in repute are Rajah Badar, Mahomet Kanapia^
Rajah Eeibar, Sultan Iskander, or History of Alex-'
ander the Great, translated from the Arabic;
Nabi Jusu or Isu, or History of the Prophet Jesus ;
Nabi Salimon, Nabi Ismael, Hnmja^ and Gobur-^
ina Ligan.

PoeticaL — ^The most favourite poetieal work^
Pantun and Siar, which the youths arte fond of
reciting, are Siar Johar Chinta Biahi^ Siar KintiN^
buhan, Siar Ibadat, Siar Burong, Siar Turbo, Da-
gang, Bida Sari, Jisirbu.

Tunes and Mustc-^The Malays in this quar«t
ter are passionately fond of music Their most
admired tunes are Lagudua, %am^ Chanti Manis
Gunong, Mas Mua, Amboy^ Sayang, Aya Pa»*
sang, Hati Rajah Gunong, Sumhawa China^ Ti«
mang teibang, Samsam, Beraoiout^ Kiuda Lang*

9B8 HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF THE

kong. Rajah Bendu^ Anak Semaiig^ Timang Ka-
lantan, Minto, Palembang^ Malacca^ Jawa, Anak
Mambangt Dadong, Siack, and Batta.

Musical Instruments^— The inttnmiaits of mo-
mc, which are not so numerous or Tarions as ia
most Makyan countries (and the mwsicians an fiur
from being proficients), are the violin, vida ; gnu*
dang, a drum ; rahana, a tambourine ; semnei, a
pipe; bangsi and suling, flutes; gong, simpang,
gamhang, gundir, cromong, instruments made of
brass and tatawa, and kachapi.

Vessels. — ^llicre arc many different descriptions
of prahus, or vessels, for transporting the prodnea
and mcrchandiae of the state to Malacca, Pinaiig»
and Singapore. The largest siaed vessels are caDed
top^ some of which are from thirty to fiarty tons
burden. The next in siae are paiyalang, penja-
jap, lanchang, julong julong^ WS^ tangahmg, all
of different dimensions from two to fifteen ooyana,
or from three to twenty-five tons; alao amaller
boats called kakap, bedar, and sampan,

Navigation. — ^All the prahus^ or
monly called prows, have small China
padoman, and some few of them have laArior
TCngliA ones. The Malays sail priacipaDj hf
the stars ; and some of them are most expert
vigators. A native jnlot who carried the ]
nouraUe Company's Inrig Jessy across the s
to Slack from Malacca, steered entirslj

EAST COAST OF SUMATRA. SOS

Stalls ; and though the ni^t was stormy^ he made
the exact point we wished, mudi more conectly
indeed than could possibly have been expected^ if
we had steered by the compass* For a prow of
five coyansy a crew of six men is sufficient ; for se«
ven coyans, eight men ; ten coyans, twelve m^i ;
and twelve coyans and upwards, fourteen men, be-
sides the nakhoda or master of the vessd.

Implements of Husbandry. — ^They have not
many implements of husbandry, the parang and
biliong being used principally for cutting down
trees. Merimbas is similar to a parang ; tajah,
a long bill for cutting grass ; kri, a small hook
&r the same purpose ; and tukal, the dibble. Be^
sides these, the spade or hoe^ changkul and suduk,
or long narrow spade for the pepper cultivation.
The plough, tanggala, clumsily made, and drawn
by a buffido, is used by Malays and Battas par-
tially, in some parts of the country, but by no
means generally.

^ntiquities.^^At Ddli Tuah, or Old Delli,
theare are the remains of an old fort, with large
square stones, the walls thirty feet in height, and
two hundred fathoms in circumference. Rigah
putzi Iju, the celebrated princess, is stated to have
built it. It is now, however, in a very imperfect
state; and possibly my information as to the size
may be incorrect. At Kota Jawa there are the
remaiasof a Jav^iese fertificatioQ, whidi I hadaq

S94 HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF THE

Opportunity of examining. The in tre nc hm cnt of
earth is about a mile, or a mile and a quarter io
circumference. Here tl^re was formerly a colony
of 5000 Javanese. At Meidan, higher up, there
is a well attached to a mesjid or mosque^ fimnerly
built of large square hewn granite stones, two feet in
length, by one foot wide. At Kota China is a stone
of a very large siie, with an inscription upon it, in
characters not understood by any of the natives.

Btvenues.'^The revenues of the state cannot
be ascertained with any tolerable degree of certain-
ty. I was informed, however, that the sultanls
duties last year amounted, on a rouj^ calculatioOp
to 4500 dollars. All his near rdations, and many
of the chiefs, are exempt from duties altogether ;
and though the following schedule professes to be
the established rates of chaige, it is continually
altered and varied by the sultan, who fiequently
receives presents in lieu of duties and harbonr-fi^ea,
and reduces the amount of duties to txiden of in-
fluenoe or rank from other quarters.

Duties.— The following is a list rf the dniiea
and port-charges at Delli :—

Imports.^^AXX sorts of white and blue doth,
chintxes and carpets, S dollars per coige ; opium,
1 dollar per ball ; salt, 4 dollars per ooyan.

The duty heretofore chargeable on doth% haa
been discontinued for a time.

JKi^porf^.— Pepper, 8i. per coyan ; wax, la. per

CAST COAST OF SUMATRA. 2dS^

pecHl ; gambir, 10s. per kxa or 10,000 ; horses/
Is. each ; slaves. Is. each ; brimstone, Is. per pe*-
cul ; tobacco. Is. per pecul ; elephants' teeth, is.
per pecul.

Part Charges. — For a ship 12 dollars, a brig
8 dollars, and a sloop 6 dollars. Half a dollar is
also charged for the use of the ganton measure,
upon every coyan of pepper. This is a perqui-
site of the shabundar, and his assistant noquedah
usool.

Currency. — The currency is Spanish dollars
and duits, or pice, principally Dutch pice of 174S,
and subsequent years ; also half pice of the £ng^
lish East India Company : 240 make a doUar or
20 oopongs, each cc^ng (an imaginary coin), 12
pice.

Measures and fFeights.-^The weights and
measures are nearly the same as in all the Malays
an countries in these straits. The weights are the
catty, pecul, and bahar, the large catty or ampat
likur. The measures are the chupah, ganton, and
coyan. These are too similar to those of Finang
to require any description.

Poptdaiion.* — From the reports I received, I
should be disposed to estimate the Malayan popu-
lation at 7000 actuaUy in the state of Delli. The
Battas are very numerous in the interior, as fiur as
the mountains, and it is impossible to guess t)ieii:

aiM HISTOKY AND DEtiCUIPTlUN OF THE

number. Tho population of Ddli oonsifte «ff
AchenesCy Javanese, descendants of McDaoigkaF
bau people, Buggese, &G. Battas, and a Toy Sam
Chinese.

C/icracter and Personal Appeanmoe^'^lm
such a mixed and varied assemblage, then is «ff
course every distinction of character. The iBf
habitants scem^ upon the wholes honever, to be s
quiet, well disposed race of people, and
not addicted to piracy. They are grossly
tious. The descendants of Menangkafaan
are fair complexioncd ; but most of the othcn
very dark and ill featured. The women are
dpally a mixture of Battas, and have that
tcrous and ugly custom, as at Langkat aad
China, of enlarging their ears. Some of the fial^
tas who come down the country, have fiae apea
countenances, with dark penetrating ^esL The
Malays have a much heavier and sleepj look.

Batta States. — There are four principal Batte
states (the rajahs of which are the most powerfiri^
with which there is a communication fiom DbUL
Scautar, the first, is in the interior of Padaagj
1 anah Jawa, five days* journey from Ddli ; BSkm
in the interior of Bcdagai, three days* joumej
the bordcra of the territory of Delli ; Sd)aya
ga, six days* journey from Delli. From
comes wax, ivor>', cotton, pulse, tobacco^ slaves^

SABT COAST OF SUHAnUL Wl

horses. From Tanah Jawa and Silow, gold, wax»
ivory, cotton^ tobacco, and slaves. From Sebaya
Ungs^ pepper, gamlnr, horses, wax, and ivory.

Writing.'^On the subject of writing, there has
bsen a difference of opinion betweoi two very emi'>
nent mem Mr Marsden asterting that the Batta
character is writt^ from left to right, and Doctor
Leyden, from the bottom to topi in a manner di»
rectly (qpporite to the Chines^ I todt the trouble
of ascertaining this point paiticulatly. A Eanm
Karau Batta wrote in my presence from left to
right npon paper with a pen ; and the great can-
nibal rajah of Munto Panei virrote upon a joint
cif bamboo vrith a knife from bottom to top; so
that both authcHTs are correct Specimens are at-
tached.

iS2at;ef.-«-0ne and the chief cause of slaves be>
ing very numerous a few years ago, was the scar-
city of rice in the Batt^ country, when the poor
^people brought down their children for sale. Slaves
are now scarcely procurable on any terms in the
interior of Delli, since the cultivation 6f pepper
commenced to such an extent, the Battas having
beoome rich and independent, and not requiring to
s^ll their diildren for subristence, or a more vbo-
worthy purpose, the gratification of their fevourite
pirbpensities, gambling and (^ium-smoking. Such
are the blessed consequences of industry, cultiva-
tion, and commerce. There is no doubt, that as

SM HISTORY ANU UKSCUIKTION OF THE

cultivation advances throughout that coast, ao will
civilization ; and in the course of not many yean
perhaps, that abominable traffic in the human ape-
des, which existed to such a dreadful extent in
fimncr years^ and still does prevail oonnderably at
some of the less civiliaed states, will oeaae. It
cannot be denied, however, that the existence of
shivery in this quarter, in former years, was of im-
mense advantage in procuring a fismale population
tar Finang. From Assahan alone, there used to
be sometimes 800 sUives, prindpally females^ cxp
ported to Makioca and Finang in a year. The
women get comfortably settled as the wives of
opuleut Chinese merchants, an^ live in the great*
est comfort. Their £unilics attach these men to
the soil ; and many never think of returning to
their native country. The female population of
Finang is still far from being upon a par with the
male ; and the abolition therefore of slavery, has
been a vast sacrifice to philanthrophy and humani-
ty. As the omdition of the slaves who wevs
tnrought to the British settlements, was materially
improved, and as they contributed so much to the
happiness of the male population » and the gencnl
prosperity of the setUement, I am disposed to
think (although I detest the principles of slavery
as much as any man), that the continuance of the
system here could not, under the benevolent ngn-
]atious v'liich were in force to prevent abase, have

EAST GOABT OF SUMATRA. SW

heea productive of much evil. The sort of slavery
odeed which existed in the British settlements in
this quarter, had nothing but the name against it ;
Jbr the condition of tSse slaves who were l»:ought
•Aam the adjoining countriesi was alwaysf amelio-
xated by the change; they Were well fed and
dothed ; the women became wives of respectable
Chinese ; and the men who were in the least in-
dustrious, easily emancipated themselves, and*many
became weidthy. Severity by mast^s was punish-
ed; and, in short, I do not know any race of
people who were, and had every reason to be, so
happy and contented as the slaves formerly, and
..debtors as they are now called, who came fixHn
the east coast of Sumatra and other places.

Jt is next to impossible to prevent the introduc-
tion of slaves into the European settlements by the
Chinese, who are most ingenious in their contri-
irances ; and I have the assurance of the natives,
that the slaves are still exported in considerable
numbers, notwithstanding slavery has been dis-
countenanced so decidedly both at Malacca and Pi-
pang. Their admission into Singapore they do not
find so difficult.

l^jong Purling. This point is so called from the
:? ast numbers of purling birds which resort there.

Kwcda LcUang or Perchoot^ so called from the
quantity of Lalang grass. The first village is
^^rchoot, containing 300 people ; then Kampong

EAST 00A8T OF SUMATRA. Ml

quarter fiithom. It is not navigaUe for large ves-
sds, and even lai^e boats get aground. It is about
150 yards wide. On the northern point there is
a high green spot of ground, with a fine sandy
beach ; and on ihe opposite side a projecting point,
with a tuft of high trees, which serves as a good
mark for the entrance. Tlie river, with very few
exceptions, is shallow all the way up to Kampong
Besar, to which place prows of any consideraUe
burden can proceed only in high spring tides.
There is no tradition of this river ever having been
visited by. Europeans.

Fifllogre^.-'-KaUambir is the first village situat-
ed on the left bank, five or six short reaches from
the sea, and contains from 80 to 100 houses. Here
Tuanlco Beman, half-brother of the sultan, re-
sides ; and here the trading prows usually rende-
vouz several days after their arrival, and prior to
their departure from the country.

Kampong Dorian is a pretty little village^ n-
tnated on the left bank^ containing about 80
houses. Tuanko Toongal is the chief

Kampong Tandel, to the left, contains about 80
houses.

Kampong Besar is rather a large village, and
iheire may be about ISO houses. Here the Sultan
Besar, and his brother Tuanko Andang, resider
This is a place of considerable trade, where the
jMTOws take in their cargoes^ and where the Battas

3fV|2 HISTORY AND DKSC^KIVTIOX OF THE

come down the country to barter their oammodi*
ties. This is about SO miles from the sea. A-
little ivay above this village there is a bifiucatian
of the river. To the right are the followiog Til-
lages : — ^Kampong Barut Tanjong Merawa, F
gitan» Teilo Teraga, Nama Sirit ; on the left
Kampong Faku» Puku, Lengo Seprang, N
Kata, Katupang, Kota Achec^ Kambei» and Kota
Tangah.

Population. — ^Tlie Malayan population of Sow
clang may be estimated at S000» and the Battaa
at 8000, of all sizes.

Boundaries. — The authority of Sirdang extendi
from Sungei Tuan to Munchaug, along the ooaaL

History. — Sirdang was originally peopled faf
emigrants from Menangkabau, who are
cd to be invulnerable, according to the
tious ideas of the Malays. Kallambir was aettlad
at the same time as Pinang ; Dorian and Kai»»
pong Bcsar, about a hundred years ago^ bjr To*
anko Puan, a princess who came from Sampilib m
the interior of Delli.

Chiefs and Government. — The present dntf it
styled iSuItan Bcsar, and he has the geneial g»-
temment of the country ; but Tuanko Senua and
Tuanko Toongal each possess authority in lUf
respective villages. The sultan's fatho* wai T»
anko Icnan. The sultan is a man aboat thirlfk
two years of age, heavy in appearance, of a

lUST COAST OF SUMATRil^ 3«.

eomplexion and short stature, rather iadined to
corpulency, and bears a good character as a mild
and benevolent rula*. He is a great trader^ add
owns a number of prows, which convey cargoes to
Pinang and other places. Siack claims a nominal
sovereignty over the country.
. Revenues. — Ho account of Uie revenues is kq>ti
and it is diffieult to form a correct estimate. The
duties are Very inconsiderable. I should not: be
inclined to estimate the king's revenues at XMm
than 1200 dollars; but he makes large profits by
trade.

Duties. — The export and import duties are re-
markably moderate, viz. one dollar per 100 gan-
tmis on pepper, and one dollar for each slave ; buC
it is in contemplation to charge duties at Kam-
pong Besar, Dorian, and Kallambir, on pepper^
rice^ and salt

Commerce. — The articles of import and export
eommarce are very much the same as at DeUi,
Bulu China, and Langkat, though not to such ari
extent. The trade, however, is rapidly increasmg j
and the late obstructions in the DelU idver, have
caused large quantities of pepper to pass do^ the
Sirdang. The Battas from a place called Doloki
eannibals, come down the country in large parties
to trade ; and the Alas people come over the itioun<«
tains from the interior of Sinkel, on the west coasts
with camphor, benjamin, gold, &c. which they ex^

3M DISTORT AND DESCRIPTION OF THE

change for doths and other nsefiil articles. The
annual export of pepper is very conriderable, to
Malacca and Pinang. Last yeaf s ezpoita were
stated at about 8000 peculs. The taste for Eu-
ropean cbinties, white doths, and handkerehiefti is
daily increasing. Very little opium is consumed
by the Malayan population ; but considerable quan-
tities are imported for the Battas in the interior.

Price Current — ^The prices of the prindpal
stiqples are as follows, vix. pepper, 80 dollars per
bahar, or 100 gantons; bijan, 10 dollars per 100;
tobacco^ 10 doUars per pecnl ; and kachang pntih,
8 dollan per 100.

Manufaclurei. — Sirdang, like Delli, cannd
boast of many manufactures. A coarse tartad
doth for sarongs, called berkampong, like the Bug*
gese sarong, and made of cotton obtained from the
Battas, is manufactured here. Also coarse sera-
wals, like the Achcnese trowsers.

Boai4mUding. — Several prows are annually
built here : the planks are mirbow, alban, niri, and
bungor.

SoiiL— The land from the sea continues to rise
gendy, and the soil is a rich blade mouU^ widi s
substratum similar to the other states described.

Tin. — At Femngitan, a considerable distance 19
the river, tin-ore is found in large masses ; but the
natives have no knowledge of the process of woik-
ingit

S^T COAST OF SUMATRA. 90S^

lAnmab'-^The animals are the same as at
Delli, Some beautiful small horses are occasional-
ly brought down the country. They are stouts
dean limbedf hardy little animals, and endure a
great deal of &tigue»

; Afnusements. — Qnail fighting ia a &yourite
amusement here; a good fighting quailf puyo
payo, is worth eight dollars.
^ Beligiaui Ceremonies. — ^There are two mosques
at Kallambir ; and at most of the other villages a
befidar-saw or place of worship, and general resort
lor travellers.. Circumcision is practised at Six-
dang much later than at most of the other places.
Xnanko Soman's brother, a lad of 19 years, was
about to undergo this ceremony, whidi is called
•< buang malu," shortly after my departure firom
thence.

Malay TVi^^;^.— ^Several of the numerous Ma-
layan chie& between Bulu China and Sirdang are,
according to tradition, descended from natives of
Cruaerat, who were wrecked on the coast many cen-
turies ago^ and consist of the following tribes.

Tribe Kejuruan Metta, of whidbi itfe the Indra
Muda of Ferchoot, Tuanko Maho of Soon^^ial,
Sultan Muda of Batubara and ACeidan.

Tribe Kquruan Santun, of which are S^jah
Gnha, B^ah Pulo Barian, Rigah Darat rf Dbb^V
Rajah Surbajadi, Rajah Idin at Sungei Nebongl

:mns histuky and utst-uiPTiox of TH£

Tribe Kejuruan Ujong, of which are the Sultan
Bosar of Sirdang, Tuanko Wan Seman of Kallam-
bir, Tuanko Toongal of Dorian, Tuanko Moda <rf
Kampoug Paku, Tuanko Andang of Kampong
Besar. Besides these, are five other Malaym
tribes, riz. Surbaniamun, of whom the diief ia
Orang Kaya Soonghal ; Santun, Orang Kaym Kaa-
sawan; Sukupiring, Orang Kaya Meidan; 8e-
mimba, Orang Kaya Kejuruan; and Ujcn^
Orang Kaya Etam ; his kampong I^ngo Seprang.

Batla TVibes. — The Batta tribes are as fiol^
lows: — Tribe Mandiling or Kataran. of whidh
are Rajah Seantar, Rajuh Silow, Rajah MnMa
Panei, and Rajah Tanah Jawa, all rannihali ; tiiba
Pappak, cannibals ; tribe Tubbak, not ^'^•Mi'Mt ;
tribe Karau Karau, not cannibals ; tribe Kappik*
cannibals. The Alas people are Mussulmen.

Ujong Rugummoo and lljong Rumuda^ two
prominent capes or points, a little to the aondiwiid
of Sirdang.

Sungei Pantei Lahu^ so called from the
bcr of pumpkins, particularly good. There
<ibout 50 inhabitants, who cultivate paddy.

Sungei Palu Nebong or Hanti'.— Then k a
village with about 150 inhabitants up thia ri^
The chief is Rajah Darat. The produce is
cipally paddy. The village is one tide up Ar
river.

£AST COAST OF SUMATRA. 397

Kwala Ayer JBtam, or JLimbu Pagar, former-
ly a populous place. There are now no inhabit-
ants. This is the boundary of the state 6f DttneL

Simgei Pdxmangan has a population of 800
souls. Tuanko Ain Ain is the chief The vil-
lage is one tide up. Wax, puke, tobacco, ivory,
and benjamin, are the principal products.

Sungei S^nghi. — ^Hene there is a small id)-
lage, with about seventy people, who cultivate
paddy.

Sungei Se Jawi Jawi, so called from the' wood
of file nama

Sungei Mangkudu, so called from the mmtber
of trees of that name. Serbajadi is^the iiame of
the small village, containing about 100 inhabitants ;
and the chief is Sultan Baik.

Ujong Karuimhfi, a very prominent point/

Sungei Bedagai.-^'ThQ chieTs name is Tuan
€tfoah, under virhom are two pangulus, named Iie-
la Wangsa and To Gadang. The Malayan po-
pulation is about 200. There are also about flOOa
Battas in the inierior, of the tribe Katann ; and
l^e principal ]fdaoes Nagore and Ria. They are
cannibals; and the rajah's name is Tuan San^
hian. The principsd produce is ratti^ paddy*-
and pulse.

Sungei Bedagai Maih under Baitubaia* : Thev^
are about 50 inhabitants, who plant paddy,, and
jnrocure wax. The vUlage is one tide up the rivei^

SOB HISTORY AMD OSSCRIPTION OF TIQC

Sungei Sdutong has a popuhtioii of about 40
people, who cultiyate paddy.

Ktoala Padang^ a conaidenble wmA rivw.
This 18 an independent state. Rajah Bidir Ahaii»
the present chieft has reigned nineteen jmn. Hia
son is Rajah Muda Etam. The two prineqial
viUages are Bundar Kalissa, oontainii^ fiOO iBh»*
hitants ; and Bundar Dahini, 600 Mahya. Ikte
are about 8000 Battas of the tribe Katam in the
country. The first vilbge is half a tide np. Here
very beaudftd horses are procured, and many
and the produce consists of rattans, paddy,
a little pepper, ivory, and benjamin. Then are
six hige prows belonging to the plaee (poQid^P^
which trade regularly widi Pinang.

Kwaia Nagonda^ a branch of the Flidaag rmr.

Stmgei Plegourawan, under Fangnhi Ponsan«
dra of Batnbara. A population of 100 inhabit-
ants, who cultivate paddy, rende a litde wny up
the river.

Sungei Separi Faf% from the nrnnber of skate
fish in this river. The chief is Chang Kaya Mm-
nali ; and the village, containing 100 peopli^ is asie
tide up.

Smf^ 7\i9yofig.—C\Me to the aea, at the wnih
of this river, is a village containing 400 infaakitaBti^
under the authority of Panguln Ahmut of Batn-
bara. Pepper has lately been cultivated hen with
great iticcess ; and the produce is nttana and

£AST COAST OF 6UMAT1U. tC9

Ujong Taf^ong^ a projectdng pmnt, off which
there is a very extensive and dangerous saikUbank,
9nth breakers. Between this and another hank,
about five miles from the shore, is a safia hut nar-
row channel, which leads to Batubaia.

Sufigei Buwboos has a peculation of 100 souls^
and the produce is paddy.a

Srnigei Perapo, a few stragglmg houses, and
dbout 80 people.

Teluk Piaif a bay between Ujong Tanjong and
Batubara, where there is a small village, containing
100 inhabitants.

Kmda Batubara '' is in kt 3' 18' 16' north,
"< bug. 99' 86' 45' east From Delli to Tai^OBg
** Mati, the coast runs S. E. by £. and is safe to
^ approach, with r^ular soundings to 4ii fiithoms^
^ within 1^ mile of a low sandy beach that fronts
^ this part of the coast. Off Tanjong Mati th«
^ depth increases to 12 and 14 £Eilhoms, uid shoals
^ suddraly to 5, 3, and 2 fathoms, on a sandy spit
<< projecting out about one mile from this poiafc
^ In steering out from this point to the oartward,
** you come upon aa extenave and dangecons sandf
^ bade, having only I and H fathoms on it. Itia
^* about five miles from the point, and the same
<< distance from Batubara. Thore is a safe ehan«>
^ nel between it and the mainland. Fsqm Tan^
<< jong Mati to Batubara, the land forms a smaU
*' bay. Off the mouth of Batubara river ig:a mry

810 HISTOEY AND D£8CRIPTION OF THE

^ estenare mud flat, having xcgnlar Mondingt on
** it, and extending oat to within three miles of
f* the South Brother. On entering the river,
^ which is ahont 800 yards uride, the swmdmgs
^ are very rcgnhur to the dry hanks, off Ae moiitih
^ of it Having entered, it brandiea off to the
^ eastward and westward. Ahont one mile npihe
^ eastern braneh, the head rajah readcs at a laige
** town, having apparently a great .nnmher of inbaf
^ bitants.*'*— (LiEUTEKAKT Rose.) Batubaimmay
be known by an immense number of fishing-etriESS
at the river's mouth, and the large phmtatioas of
eocoa-nut trees dose to the sea shore, visiUe at a
eons^derable distance. The ground is high, but
sandy ; and there is a fine beach along the esast,
extending many miles.

Name. — Batubara is so called from a huge stone
in the interior, which at night has the appearance
of being red hot, and throws a light ronnd iL Ba-
tn signifies stone, and Bara live cosls, or glowing
cmders*

GcBoemment and Chief. — ^This country is under
the immediate authority of Slack; and die eUefii
are appcnnted and receive their chops and digni-
ties from that state. The principal is Nomlm
Bindahara, who succeeded to the govemnsnfe 19
years ago. He is a pangulu of Siack. Under
him are five other cfaieft, called datns, via. Wan
AJbmet, Sri Maharaja Lek; Kota, Sebfaii|i R^ ;

EAST COAST OF SUMATRA. 3J1

Che Wang, Samoangsa ; Wan Noodin, Paduka
Sri Usmana ; and Solyman, Seagar Rajabu

Under these again arc twenty inferior officers,
called pangulu, who each possess different oom-
mands in the several districts and villages. Be-
sides these, is the tumungong (Abdullassip)^ who
has the chief authority at Kampong Baga.

Villages. — The villages up the Batubara river
are very numerous. The first is

Bagan» on the left point in entering the river,
containing about 75 houses. The inhabitants are
principally fishermen, who catch prodigious quanti-
ties of fish, which they cure for exportation, and
which are much esteemed at all the ports on the
coast.

Boga is the next village on the right side, and
•contains about 100 houses.

Kampong is a large village, containing about 200
houses, the residence of the chief. At these three
villages, the noquedahs or masters, and crews of
prows, principally reside. The women here are ce-
lebrated for their industry, and the manufacture of
beautiM silk cloths. There are always great
numbers of prows lying at these villages. A
short distance above Bagan, there are two streams
which &31 into the main river ; the first called Ta-
nah Datar ; the next Lima Laras. Up the Ta-
nah Datar branch, are the folkwing villages^ viz.
,Fematang, Labuhan, Uku, TerussaQ, JPahang,

319 HISTOBY AMD DSSCEIPTIOll Of THS

Ptflankei, Fbdaog Guntiag, Kampoog Pm||MI|^
Sejamyut, Elabow, Kalnbit Sintangt Lana PtaliL

Up the IAbul Lanu rirer are KmipQiig IMoBg
Angur, Lalangy SanUog, Pinang; ITafch,
Bacbang, Ftangalri, Rajah, and TaigaBg

Co mmer c ed T he ptodnetioiii of BaliAna
vorytrifliog. Battnw, lalt-Aih, hona^aad
dothiy are the principal exports of the state. 0)ps»
imi»ahout TOdbests of nwtilks^ a laiga quantity sf
sshy and doths of various deseriptiona and
fiietnres» similar to those previously detailed aa i
ported into Bnlu China, finm the importsi Th
Batabara people, however, are the principal omisBB
of the prows which bring the valuable pred oea of
the other states to Pinang and Malaeea, and bm^
be termed the carrien of the trade. Many of the
inhabitants are wealthy, and asm aevcral Inge
vessels. Slaves and horses are faroo|^ down Aom
the interior in consideraUe numbsra.

l^twif — *The shabnndar informed are that tfaens
are not less than 600 trading prowa IwiliwigiBfl to
Batnbara, eonstsntly engaged in aoauneree.

Jianufaeturee,^— In almost every boose at B».
tubam is one or more looms ; and the slam gisls
spin, dye^ and weave. Great quantities af
cotton and rich silk and gold doths are
tured here for die use of the inhabitant^ and ftr
exportation to other Malayan conntries in finaM
tn and the Mahyan peninsuh. These fintli

£ABT COAST OF SUMATKA» ^U

however^ are very expensive^ whidi h dAiiBy umbag
to their imperfect machiiiery, and the h^ prieea
of the rough materials whidi are imported firam
Pmang or Malacca* The aalindang or acar& am
partieolarly d^ant; and the foUowing varietiea
w^e pardbased by me on aoooimt of govcmmei^
I diall not enter into any partieolar deatriptien of
them here, as they will be laid befinre the govam-
ment, tix. the kain panjang, takp berantd* aalin*
dang imguh bunga mas, champnl bediool iju fai»
|Nila mas, dundiazi chdari. Of sarongs^ the aa»
rong kechil, gubbar, bertaboog benang mas, un»
gnh, senarin intan, diampur benang dangan sitra»
kambuja ; most of these of beautiful tartan pat*
terns, and fimdAdly wrought with gold thread.
The salimut benang mas is a la^ tartan pattern
silk doth, with gold thread border, used for deq^
ing in. The handkerchiefs are mostly of silk, in
imitation of the Fulicat, via. saputangan seree, a
small handkerchief for containing seree aud betd-
nnt; saputangan kapala baku and benang mm^
or gold thread handkeidiie&. Of trowaars or ae»
rawal, there are the serawal benang mas, bttAiv
panjang^ bechooal, all of silk, and semwal benang,
eottosi; also mixed, called chumpur benang dangaa
sitra. Of bajoos or jackets, I hare oaiy two aorta,
viz. bajoo halya and tolap berantd, both of silk^
handsomdy worked with gold thread Betidea
these, a variety of <miamental borders finr matiessea

314 HISTORY AND D>::iiCUII''nU>i OF THK

and pillows of couches or mats, and degfo^j
wrought covers for scree-boxes, are made ; and tb
following were bought by me as specimen^ vim,
tcpitikar puncha seroe, sampal tepi, and pidiipnm

It will be observed, on reference to the prieea cf
these articles transmitted to govemmenti Hmt
many of them might be manufactured in Enopt
at oue-third the price ; though it is true the prieei*
charged to me were higher than the natives wnU
have paid for them, who were better *^»^*Hitdl
with their value, knew the places where they were
to be obtained cheapest, and had leisure and p^
tienoe enough to bargain for each a long tiae.
Neither my time nor inclination would admit of
tliis ; and I may therefore fairly conclude^ thai I
have paid fully 25 per cent more than the ml
average and (xjna fide price of the artides. A
few of them indeed, are second-hand; but the
shortness of ifty stay rendered it impoasible to
make so large a collection, ot obtain such a variety
of the manufactures of the country in any ether
shape ; the best cloths being wove aevenl days*
jonmey in the interior.

Population. — ^The fixed Malayan populatiHi b
reckoned to be about 10,000, of whom these aie
4000 fighting men.

* Vide Appendix ii.

GOA6T OF {SUMATRA. ^16

/ Jtatfoj.~*Tfab Battw in tbe inl^rioF of BaMw^
n are of the tribe Kat8raii,4iiid the princi^ state
is Semilongan. They are caniiibals» and x>f* a^^
jBoliarly fevociotts and untraetaide disposition- ; nor
can tbey he -prevailed upon to .dsvgte thtmsekres
/either to agxaculture er comiberce, exfept-auflMeM
jDnly to keep them ftom absolute want ^md alar*^
vation. • / >- •*- *

. CannibeMsm.'^li I bad had any very asvious
•doubts of the existence of this. practice, .they iVMld
liaye been remo3^ here ; for the fact of cannibalisafk
|)re?ailing to a great extent, was weU substantiate
ed. The tumungong was married to one of 'the
iqah of Seantafs. daughters, and he repraKUts
4bat barbarous custom as b^ngi quite. common in
ithat; country.

Marriage between the Malays and Battas.^^
'The Batta rajahs in this quarter give a daughter
(to any Malay chief who can afford to lay out 800
lOr 400 dollars updn the marriage .ceremonies.
They. usually present 10 or 12 slaves, a &w horses,
or scHue buffaloes, as a marriage pcnrtion ; and « the
Malay, when he returns down the river, iimdiacis
ithe amount of hia outlay by the .sale of a certain
number of slaves, and keeps the surphis ; .besides
perhaps liaving gained some privilege&in bek^^al-
jiowed to trade. in certain parts of the interior, and
jsecuring the safety of his person. No wonder^then
ihsA t^e daughters do not Jiang loi^mpaa tihei?^

XAtr CXIAflT OV WMATBA. SI?

Jam Batu of AsBtthin. The popidstiMi k abimt

40<H and the exports paddy, fijdi, and wax; and

last season, a small quantity of pepper of superior

equality was exported. The eidtiyation of that ar-

stiole is increasing rapidly here.

Swngd Se Jam Jam* There are a few &rt;taB
up this river, who grow paddy.

Sungei Bagan^ a small Batta village^ eontain*
ing 50 people, up this rivet.

Sungei Uhr^ oi Snake River, similar to the
above.

Sungei BuayOf or Alligator River. Fidietmen
resort here.

Sungei Tamban Talan, afisw straggling honsei
vap this river, and about fiO inhabitants.

Sungei Aseakan ^ is in latitnde W tiff north,
"^ and longitude 99^ sr east. Off die mouth of
^ this river a mud flat extends about seven miles
^ to the north-east, with regular soundings on it
^ Fimn this to the entranoe of Reooan^ care must
'* be taken not to approach too dose to the skor^
^* as several mud flats extend out to a eonsid^iUe
^ distance^ off some (ji which the SoundiBge de-
^ crease very ra{ndly^''

JLiKlTlPSKAKT Rone.

Entrance.''^^ ThB entrance of the Assahan
"* liver," (says Captain Crooke), '« is about IMO
^yards wide; but it is shallow and difficult ef M-
** trance, fiom an extensive saiid4MHik #hick lines

€t
U
M
€€
€t
€t
4t
CC

318 IIISTORT AND UESCKIITION Oh' THE

** tbe co^t. In ascending it, the firat reseh iv m
** length about S iniles» and in direction S. 99
** W. ; the second is about 2i miles N- 80 W. ;
^ and the third winds round to sontb, naaHj 9
** miles, to the Sungei Silau. Its mean hradth
in this distance is about 500 yards, and the
depth of the channel about 2 fathoms at loir
water spring tides. On the point formed bjr the
Silau, immediately above its junction, stand 60
or 70 huts. It is a poor village, called Kampoi^
Balei, and contains about 500 people, about 9|
miles up the Silau, which falls into the Aasahan
from the westward. It receives from its right a stOI
^ smaller stream, the Sungei Kota Bayoo ; and on
*^ the point formed between them stands tlie ▼&-
•* lagc of Si Kantau, the residence of the pettjr
** sultan. The houses are better ; bnt the popohif-
** tion is about equal to that of Kampoi^ Balei,
** and is composed of Malays, Battas, data, and
** from 50 to 100 Chinese. The tide riaei aboot 9
^ feet, and it is high water at the riverli aoadi rt
** about four o'clock at fuU and change.*

iVamr.— Assahan derives its name from m paca^
liar sort of long grass whicli grows there.

History and Gcvernment. — It would be hat
an uninteresting and unprofitable task to tnee the
early history of this state (which is involved m
fable and mystery), or to enumerate the aeveni
kings and successive dynasties, llie father of the

£A&T C^AST or SUATATKA. 3)ff

{Hreseut chief, who i» a youth of 17»> was Jatrg de
per tiian Ali He died about 9 years ago. His
sou beii^ theu a minor, the Sultan Muda Mafao^
met, .farother of the present Sultan Muda^ assumed
the government of the country. He died five aad
a half years ago, . since which period, . the- affiuxS'of
thekingdom have been managed by the Jang de
per tuan and Sultan Muda conjointly. There is^
however^ a rival and separate power in the king^
dom, which has attained ecHisiderable ascendancrir^
viz. the Raja Muda, a cousin of the young king;
and the bindahara, who is of Menangkabiau de-
scent ; and these two have for some years past suc^
cessfully opposed the authority of the Intimate
heir to the throne, and have in fact possessed them-
selves of the* most valuable portion of the country.^
They have been engaged in constant ; hostilitieB;
even since the death of the late king. The present
is the seventh king of Assaban^ The . founder of
the kingdom came from Menangkabau, at that
time a very powerful empire ; and . its sway alid
authority extended in . a greater or ^ less degtoo
throughout the : island. There was a colony '^of
Portuguese, as well as Javanese, formerly, up the'
Assahan river ; but there are no correct records re-
lating to them now in existence. The remains^irf
an old Javanese fortification ^about 70 miles up- tW
river, are stiU to be seen. ^ . f

aw HlfTORV AND DB8CRIPTION OF THE

Ckarader qf the King.—Ti» young fi^ah u
addicted to that moA pernicioiiB habit of — »^^
ofnum ; and hit oonatitution aeems to hava dready
iufiered mooh firom this Ticums indnlgBBacfe to
trhidi he has been addicted fiom hia eaiBast yaawi
I haTeobasrred gBneraUy* that thoae who aae gifi^
to thia practice to excess^ ha?e a gfaaatly and fim*
CHNis look , aio alinm thin^* their habitatioiia atnd
dress miserable and dirty» and every thing abonk
them bespfabing wretcliednesB» the coneomitank of
fice and debauchery.

StaU rf the Coumbry ^^Th^ intoenal divisiBH
have materially injured the trade of the countiy.
It was fimnerly a place of ezkensiTe nmmmssos
Vessels of all aorts from Java, Celebes^ and ArfisWi
used to frequent this place ; and the ausoal impes^
tation of aalt» I am assured, never fiD short of fiOO
ooyana«

Commerce and Price OyrrmL—ThM oommeroe
has very much decreased ; but then are atill about
80 prows of various siass belonging to the eountryt
engaged in canying the valuable produce to K*
nai^ Malacca, and Singapore; and nunypeowa
frsBs Batubara take in cargoes here.

/o^xirff •— The principal importo osorist of aalt^
opium, and coarse Uue and white doths^ ton tibm
consumption of the Battas in the interior; bnt
many other articles^ such as have been facftre do*

EAST COAST OF SUMATRA. S»l

scribed ais imported into Delli and other places,
are also carried to Assahan. Arms and gunpowder
are always in great demand.

Exports. — The exports are a(s follows : — ^Kayu
kkar or dye-wood, average prices lid. per pecul i
rMtans; lOd. per laxa or 10,000 ; kaching (peas)>
lOd. per ganton ; paddy, Is. per 25 and SO gan-
tons ; rice. Is. per 12 and 15 gantons ; wax, 92s;
per pecul; mats (Mdei) large, 12s. per dorge;
horses, from lOs. to 20s. each; slaves (women),
40s. each ; ditto (children), 20s. each ; ditto (old
men), from 12s. to 15s. each.

Slaves. -^^inct the abolition of slavery at I^
nang and Malacca, the trade in the human species
has been very much circumscribed at Assahan. In
fiirmer years, the average number of slaves export^
ed was about 300, of which the greatest proportion
consisted of females. The slaves here are usually
procured in war ; and the Malays do not find it
difficult to make a pretence for engaging in hosti^
lities when they require a few slaves^ Tht Bat^
tas are averse to residing near the river's side, tin:,
less in large parties, as they are liable to be attack-
ed suddenly, and carried off by the Malays. They
never go to bathe even, withofut being armed. The
Malays, however, frequently seize theb children
straying near the banks of the river.

Tin-Ore. — There is abundance of tin-ore in 'the
mountains^ a little way beyond Bendar Ptesir

.^23 HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF THE

jVIcndogei. The king is anxious to induce
Chinese to work it, and urged mc to use my in-
fluence for that purpose.

Cultivation. — Pepper has been cultivated onlj
the few last years, and to a very limited CKlent ;
but the soil is well adapted for it, and the inhabit-
ants are likely to extend its cultivation. Tobaeeo^
and pulses, and paddy, are grown in conridenhfe
quantities. Of the latter, there is much more
than equal to the consumption of the country ; and
Assahan supplies several of the neighbouring states
with grain. Fruits of all kinds are in the greatest
abundance.
Duties. — ^The duties arc as follows, via. >—
Imports. — Salt, Ss. per coyan ; opium, tin, and
gunpowder — ^no duty chargeable on these artidok
but tlie purchase monopolized by the njab. AH
other articles free.

Mxporis. — Paddy, 2s. per coyan ; riee, I6i. per
coyan ; slaves, 2s. each ; wax, 4s. per pecnl ;
tans, lOd. per 1000 bundles; mats, Id. per
white peas, 8d. per coyan ; onions, 4d. per pecri ;
Semambur rattans, 10s. per 100 bundles; mnvir
rattans lOd. per 1000 bundles ; whip rattans^ lOd.
per 1000 bundles ; fishing lines, id. on 100 niDi;
lakar wood, id. per pecul ; dragon's blood, id. per
pecul ; horses, 2s. each ; trowsers, 9i per cent wi
xmlorem ; Batta tobacco, 8d. per pecul.

Superstition. — The Malays have a superatilMNM

EAST COAST OF SUMATRA. 3^9

venerati6n for their oreeses of kris^ and they have
great faith also in the efi^cacy of stones and fossUs,
which they pretend are extracted from reptiles,
hirds, animals, &e. in preventing them from being
wounded, and wear round their waist a belt of
them when they go to war. The rajah of Assahan
has a beautiful collection of them inclosed in his
girdle. Many of them bear the appeanmee of be-
ing cut and moulded to their present shaqpe, and
are sold by the crafty traders, who impose upon the
credulity of these people, and sell these stones at a
very high price.

Villages up the left Branch.-^The whole of
the villages situated up the left branch of the As-
sahan river, are under the authority of the Rajah
Muda and Bindahara. There are sevetal small
streams which fail into this river^ having a large
population of Battas and Malays on their banks.
Tanjong Balei is the first; then come Sungei
LeUia, Sungei Kapiring (the best place for rat-
tans), Sungei Seratus, Sungei Lindir, and Sung^
Kesa, principally occupied by Malays^ and Sungei
Mesihi, Sungei Saha, Eampong Pesaguan, Oper-^
musingal, S^apong, Singkum, and Se 6alang-ga-
lang, chiefly occupied by Battas ; and Bundar Pnio,*
a large town, where the Rajah Muda and ffinda-
hara reside, and the inhabitants of which are part--
ly Malays and partly Battas. This place is three*
days' saU for fiist pulling canoes, and five days^ for

384 HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF THE

laige siied boats, from Tanjong Baldt the first vil-
lage in the river. At Bendar Pulo there is m
very considerable trade ; and the Battas from the
mountains come down in great numbers. All the
above villages are under the Rigah Muda aad
Bindahara.

FiUages up the right Branch^— Tht Umm
and villages up the right branch are Kampom
Serantan, where the Sultan Muda, and irr^rmsl^
ly the king, resides. Then Raotaa Paqjaog^
Sungei Menkuang, Kampong Kesaran, Baarir
Putih, Semata Layer, Terata, having a mixed pe>
pulation of Malays and Battas ; Sejorei, ^"***^fti,
and Munto Panei» Batta villages ; Bendar Passir
Mendogei, where the king usually residea. ThsA
come Hopas, Kampong Ujong Seping-g^mg, alaq^
and very populous town, Tanjong Batii^ Dola Mi^
hanga, Ujong Panei, Silan Maharaja, Bale Tse-
ding, and Pomarimbun, all very populous viUiKa*

To the leftt up the Munto Panei, are Ifsmpian
Kota Born, Sebuaden, Pulo Dari, Binto ^"tii^
Binto Sidari, Pub Puli, Seiyup, and many olfasr
Batta villages.

Population.— The Battas of the Bodar Fda
branch of the Assahan are Tubbas^ who aay he
known by the holes in their ears. They ere ret
cannibals. Those of the Munto Panei are of Ae
tribe Perdimbanan, and eat human flesh, are n
lent, addicted to opium, and always

EAST COAST OF BUMATBA. 895

war. The Batt8s who live ne^ the gfest lake,
are Tubba Nasei, Tubba Salindit, and Tubba
Uluan. There are also the tribes Fappak and
Kappak. These two races are eannibals, and go
about plundering on the borders of the lake. Tlie
Tubbas are very warlike, and pretend to foretell
who will be wounded in a battle^ and they select
such as may be considered invulnerable. They
also pretend to direct a knife to a cocoa-nut ; and
many other wonderful feats of their dexterity and
magic are related, and superstitiously credited by
the Malays. The statements I received from the
shabundar of Kampong Bald, of the population of
the country, in which he specified the number of
inhabitants in each village, is in my opinion too
much exa^erated to insert in this place; but
from the most particular inquiries I was enabled to
make, I am sure I do not over-rate the populati(m
between Tanjong Balei and the borders on this
side the great lake, and in the whole of the Assa-
han state, at 70,000 souk

Batta Languages. — ^There is ' a great varietv
of dialects spoken here } and I shall bc^ to insert
in this plac^ a specimen of the language spokcb
by the Karau Karau Battas in the interior of
Delli and Langkat, and of the Perdimbanan,
which is the dialect spoken at Assahan. Thi* hat
differs but little from the Tubba and several other
dialects spoken in that quarter.

996 HISTORY AND DE8CBIPTION OF THK

Specimen of the Karau Karau and iVn/tM^a-

na9^ Dialects.

BNGLliH.

One»

Two,

Thrae,

Four,

Five,

Six,

aBWBUf

Eight,

Nine,

Ten,

Eleven,

Twenty,

Handkerchief,

White Cloth,

Red,

BL^k,

Water,

No,

KABAU XABAU.

Sadak,

Qua,

Telu,

Oompat,

Limah,

Enam,

UahMf

Sewah,

Fob,

Polosudah,

Duapolo,

Tangolo,

Benang Bentar,

Gam,

Biring,

Laiou,

Langlit,

Beku,

Due.

Tola.

Opat.

Linah.

Onan.

Peetoa

UallM.

Skh.

Sapoln,

Sapulu

Dua pufai

Ootong

Hio

Oiijgir.

Birang.

Aik.

Nadong.

Dembaik

Parte of the Human Body.

Hea4,
Eye,

Nose,

Hair,

Teeth,

Hand,

Thiunl^

Fore finger.

Middle ditto.

Takal,

Matta,

Aygoog,

Beeok,

Aypoon,

Tangan,

Idong Idoag,

Tduktodo,

Blakang,

Ubi.

Mata.

Igong.

Rambat.

Eypoon.

Tangan.

Idoup

Tnajdu

Secnali^

EAST COAST OF SUHAT&A.

327

ENGLISH.

KABAU XABAU

PSBOIHBANAN.

Third ditto.

Katari.

Little ditto.

Kildi del.

Haliking.

Breast,

Tintin,

Andora.

Neck,

Krabong^

Borgok.

Chin,

Isang,

Orang orang.

Lips,

Bibir.

Tongue,

Delu.

Arm,

Bitistangan,

Botohon.

Armpits,

Kikik,

Kidik Kidik.

Foot,

Tappa tappa.

Pat.

Leg (calf),

Pitis,

Bitis.

Thigh,

Paha,

Hihi.

Waist,

Awak,

Batuha.

Navel,

Posong,

Pusok.

Back,

Gurong,

Blakang.

Side,

Rbso,

Rusuk.

Chest,

Poso,

Paratiantian.

Ear,

PingU,

Pingool.

Nostril^

Lubang Aygong,

Orang Orang Igong.

Cheek,

Kurum,

Huruxn.

Elbow,

Seko seko.

Soui soui.

Body,

lalma.

Akala.

Nails,

Selo selo.

Sesilow.

Ande,

Mutoari,

Matanari pat.

Throat,

Bulo Bulo,

Ara AmteloraiL

Back of the neck^

Kudok,

Tukuboh.

Manufadures. — The Battas are principally

dressed in coarse cotton cloths of their own manu-

facture» 4^ cnbits long, by 2 cubits wide. They

are cliiefly of a

dark blue colour, with red or white

lines int^^rmixed. The texture

is extremely coarse

and the doth harsh and wiry 1

to the touch. Th?

2M HISTORY AND DEtk'RIPTION 0¥ THB

ootton is grown in the country, and the Uue djm
is obtained from a species of indigo (tanim), whkh
is abundant throughout the island. The lakar omI
other woods furnish other colours*

Batta Cloths.— The following is a list of all the
diflPerent sorts of Batta cloths which were
able in the Assahan country, and purchased on
count of government : via. meigum sisi, gura
dang, sum sum, rinjap, ragi bedouan, safatla gaian^
sebottar, ragi sehorpa, ragi sehoram, tonompiac^
ragi atuanga, iabbit, and ragi perbouiac

Mats. — A great variety <^ mats are
turcd by the Battas, some of an exceedingly
texture, and neat open pattern. Their karangs ef
bags for containing their clothes, seree, &c am
neatly and fancifully wrought The mats (parti-
cularly the coarse sort, called bidei, made of
tans, and slips of the inner bark of trees) ban
of the principal exports of the country. The Bat-
tas make swords called pedaug and ValiMn ; the
handles of tlie former are of iron, and of the latte
usually ivory. They besides manufacture
knives of a vast variety of shapes and siies^ mad
nous other instraments of iron and steeL

Tatyong Si Api ^pi^ a projecting poiiit»
which there are extensive and dangerous

Sungci Ijsedcmg. — This is rather a Luge
and belongs to the Assahan state, of which
mcut Pungulu Paduka Sinda is the

£A8T COAST OF SUMATRA. Ml»

tive. There is a Batta population of 700, of which
the chief is R^ah PuDJurama. The distance up
the river to the first viUage, is one tide. Rattans,
mats, shives, wax, and ivory, form the exports of
the country.

Sungei Kwaloah. — ^AU the states between thii
phce and Siaok pay tribute to the latter, and are
entirely under its dominion and controul. The
population, which consists of Battas diiefly, is about
1200, under Rajah Muda Ulabalaqg. The town
is two days' sail for boats up the river ; and the na*
vigatioo is rendered dangerous by a bunno^ or bore
in the riv^, not so severe however as in some of
the other rivers to the eastwa^ of it. Here the
3lligators are very numerous and fieree. The ex-
ports consist of rattans, wax, mats^ slaves, &e. ;
and the imports blue and white cloths, opium, and
various other articles.

Sungei Beelah. — ^Under Sultan Bedir Alum.
The villages are Ayer Tanang, Negri Padang,
Ayer Beelah, Selangtagi ; the first of which is one
tide up»^ The population was estimated at 1800,
principally Battas ; and the exports consist of rat-
tans, wax, slaves, gold, mats, and brajamin. In
this river there is ako a bore.

Sungei PaneL^^lt is one tide up to Kampong
Panel, ike first village in lliis lai^ river ; and
there are several other villages. There is a small
island at the conflux of the Beehh and this river^

390 HISTORY AMD DKtiCaiP'riON OF TU£

called Pulo Kantau, which has been pointed out at
an eligible spot for a factory. The populatioB eott*
sista of about 1000 Malaya, betides a gnat inaay
Battat. The chief is Sultan Mangidir Alnou
The bore here is dangerous, and the alligafetn taka
people out of boats, and are very large and fe-
lodout. The Battat come from two placea» called
Tmnbeti and Padang Balla. The oountry it ie<
pretented to be very fertile ; and the diief expoilt
axe matt, paddy, rattans, shiver wax, kayu Inkka
or dye*wood, and some other minor artidet.

Taf\fQmg J7aitgf^i.-^Between thia point and
Kubu aie the following rivers, which hare oeftt
been noticed : — Sungei Setukang (fitfaennen)^ Sob-
gei Pqudian, Sungei Ayer Tawar, Sungei Ular,
and Sungei Daun.

Sungei Tangali. — Up thit rivor it a tmall vil-
lage, with SOO inhabitants.

Sungei Salang has a population of about 100.

Sungei Ltfiit.— There are about SOO inhabit-
ants up thit river.

Sungei Bemr. — ^There are teveral tmtH rill^rt
up thit river ; and the inhabitantt ate conpniad
at 400.

Sungei Mirbou\ said to have about 100 people.

Sungei SampeL — ^Here there it an launu and
Higit, and some small villages, with flOO inhi^
bitantt.

Sungei Kubu is a large river ; and then are

£AST COAST OF SUMATRA. 9Sl

several populous villages on its banks. The chief
is Todewa Fahlawan. Here is also a bore in this
liver. The produce is rattans, wax, and rice.

Sungei Beccan. — f^ At the entrance of this ri«
** ver are two islands ; one called Pulo Lalang
'' Besar, And lies in lat. at 1(X, and long. 100^^6^
*' 50'' ; and the other, Pulo Lalang Kechil, and
f* bears from the former S. 16 £. The distance
** between them is nbout two and three quarters of
f' a mile, having a safe but very shoal channel be-
** tween them into the river. They are low and
*' woody, and cannot be distinguished above ten
** miles off. Having passed through these islands,
** the entrance into the river bears S. 86 £., and
." rmis up in that direction about thirty miles,
** when it branches off to the westward^ forming a
'* small and shallow river called Bangka, which
** runs a few miles up the country. The main
*' branch runs to the south-east, forming a river
f* called Tanah Putih, which takes its name from
** a town situated at the mouth of it. The nioatJi
** of the Tanah Putih is about one and a half mile
^ broad, and is said to take its rise in the rnoun-
f* tains. It is very shallow and dangerous, owing
** to the excessive rapidity of its tides. Several
f* large and populous villages are said to be situr
** ated on its banks, which are under the authcMty
f^ of the rajah of Siack. The mouth of the Ree-

332 HISTOKY AND DE8CHIFTION OF THE

^ cm, in the broadest part, is aboat fifteen niks
^ broad. After proceeding up eight or nine nilei^
'' it narrows to four, and afterwards to two mileib
*' and continues that breadth, till it jmnt the two
** rivers above-mentioned. It is almost dry it low
^ water spring tides, and extremely ixogamm^
<< owing to the excessive rapidity of the tidei^
^ which run at the springs at the rale of
** miles per hour, and the rise and fidl of the
'* which is about SO feet It is also suljeet to a
'< bore, which adds considerably te ita dangeni
<* We anchored in the vessel about 17 ndfei vf
^ the river, in 6i fathoms, at 4 p. m., the eUi lift
** still running at the rate of two knots per hov ;
^ perceived the bore coming in, forming by time
^* very laige swells. The instant it touched the
** vessel (then l}ing aground in 4 feet watery the
*' water rose to 2i fathoms, and was past in lea
** than a minute. On the right*hand baolk of tiie
** river was situated a straggling vill^^ the inhe-
*' bitants of which came off on the momhig of
** arrival, in great numbers, on friendly
** and earnestly begged to be admitted oat bond^
** which was refused, excepting to a very few. They
^ afiier^ards, without the slightest pr o vocatien» CB*
** deavoured to cut off one of our boats^ that had
^ got adrift by the excessive rapidity of the tfde^
'^ It is high water at the mouth of the ReeeaB, at

IJIAST COAST OF ^UJfATEA. 38S

<f aix hoars fioU and dw^^ : the lise and &11 is
*^ about S6 feet, aud the tideruns about 5i knots,
<< but increases Yery much when a few miles up."

Ll£UT£NAKT R08£.

The fidlowing rivers and places in the Reccan
were mentioned by some of the chiefs whom I met
at Siack : —

Sungei Menamp, ISO inhabitants.

StMgci BmncOj 600 inhabitants.

Taiyong Meraniif 150 inhabitants, under a
pangulu.

Sungei Tanah Putth.-r-Tlm is a fine river,
were it not for the very dangerous bore, which is
very great here ; and none but vessels adapted for,
and pec^le long accustomed to, the navigation, dare
venture into the river. The chief of the place is
Bendar Tudin, and the population about 1000.
The exports consist of slaves, wax, camphor, ben-
jamin, rattans, ivory, cinnamon, agal agal wood,
and many other articles. The Rinchis, a religious
sect in the interior of Menangkabau, have injured
the country very much.

Sungei Batu Ampa comes next. Fangulu
Mancha is the chief of a village containing 120
people.

IJ^ong Perbabian. — ** From Reccan river, the
^ land extends out to the N. W., forming a point
*' called Uione Per Babian. Off this point, a

3^1 IIISTO&V AND DESCKimON OF TH£

» mud-flat extends to the N. N. W. about 11 milei^
** with r^uhir soundings on it. Having paned
" this bank, with the point bearing S. W., and
" Paroelar Hill N. 4S E., you enter up the moat
'' dangerous part of the coast, having sandJiaBka
** extending out from the Sumatra shore to die
" south sands, with mud soundings between them.
*' The soundings are no guide in approaching thew
" banks, as you shoal very suddenly. It is ne-
cessary, in running through these sand-bnnks» ta
have a boat sounding aliead, and a good look-ont
" from the fore- yard, as the bank shows very plain-
" ly in a clear day. From Ujong Per Babinn, the
" coast runs to the S. E. till you approeeh Ftab
'' Koopat. When you approach the north part af
*' Pulo Roopat, which lies in ht. 2' € N.
" long. 101' *s: £., the channel beoaoMe
** and the land bold to approach, havii^ JO fittbone
'* within li mile of the shore, whidi tffniilingp
<< you carry till you approach the cntmnee ef
^ Brewer's straits, when a mnd-bank ezfeenda
'^ from the island about five miles.**

LlEUTEKAKT

Pri/b Roopat. — An island of conaidenble
on which arc several small rivers, and a number ef
inhabitants.

IJimg Saddij and Ujong Banian^
points on the island to seaward.

EAST COAST OF SUMATRA. ^

Sungei Misgid is a small stream on the island,
fidling into the straits ; and there n a small village
with 70 people.

Sallat Boopatf or the straits formed hy the
island and the main, after which, considerably to
the southward, is

Sungei Dumei, on the island, a small river
containing a few inhabitants, who collect rattans
under Pungulu Dola ; after which comes

Stingei Birting Merambong, a small rivef,
off which there is an extensive and dangerous sand-
bank, on which many prows and vessels have been
wrecked.

Sungei Bukit Batu^ a very small stream,
dose to the mouth of which stands the town of
Bukit Batu, which is a place of considerable trade,
the grand staple being roes of the trobo fish, or
tdur trobo, as they are called. Here there is a
very extensive fishery ; and three or four hundred
boats, with two and three men in each, go out to-
gether firequently to the fishery, which is a Kttld
outside of the straits Tanjong Jattee.

Brewer^ s Straits. — " The northern entrance to
** these straits is formed by Pulo Bacalisse (the
** north end of which lies in kt. l"* 36' N., and
** long. 102'' E.), and the mainland of Sumatra,
^ and is about five miles in breadth,- with mud«
^ soundings on it. About eight miles from the en-
^^ trance is situated the town of Bookit Batoo« on

€i
M
«l
M

336 HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF THE

** the banks of a very narrow river of that naAie.
^ The houses are so scattered among the ttees^ that
** they were not perceived by us, although within a
"* mile of them. It is to be known by a tree
** shaped like an umbrella^ which is near the en-
trance of the river. When oflP Ujong Ballai, die
** strait narrows to three miles, opposite to whieh is
an entrance to the seaward, caUed Sallat Padan^
having a safe channel for boats. From Ujong
** Ballai, the strait turns to the southward, till
'' it reaches Siack river.**

Lieutenant Rose.

Siingei Siack. — ** The mouth of this river is iff

<" kt VSff N., and long. 108* l(f E. The en-

trance to it is about three quarters of a miU

broad, having a sandy spit, which is almost dry

** at low water, extending almost across the mout^

^ leaving a safe but very narrow cfaannd into the

^ river dose to the eastern shore. It is high vra-

** tcr at full and change at nine boon ; the rise

«< and fidl is about ISfeet; and the tide runs at the

'^ rate of H knots per hour.**

Lieutenant Robb.
Siack River. — On passing the bar at the cn^
trance, the depths continue six, five, and tarn fi^
thoms, about fifteen miles, when they increase to
seven, eight, and nine, and in many plaees dose t6
the banks, are twelve, and even fifteen frthomsL
There is not a single shallow or sand-bank as frf

«4

£A8T coast of SUMATRA. 987

as the town of Slack, which is dghty miles from
the entrance ; and the river is navigable for brigs
seventy or eighty miles farther^ Polo Guntong is
an island of a considerable size, about six miles
from the mouth of the river, to the right, on which
the Dutch formerly had a factory. Tanjong Fe-
dada is a point to the left, about forty miles higher
up, which is fSunons for being the resort of al%a-
tors of an immense size. At this plac^ abottt
twelve years ago, the commander of a timber ship
from Pinang (Captain Peake), lost his life by these
voracious animals. He was descending the river
to meet Captain Lynch, ^ho had just arrived fi>r a
cargo of timber for building his Majesty's ship Ma-^
lacca, and the Honourable Company's slnp Inglis ;
and he was in a small boat pulled by ten men^
Two alligators of an immense size came ijff from
the shore, where they had been lying in the mud^
and with open mouth made for the canoe^ which
so alarmed the boat's crew, that they all rushed to
the opposite side, and upset Ae boat. The cap«
tain and a few of the people were instantly devour^
ed, and the others escaped on shore, and conveyed
the melancholy tidings to the native aoquedah of
the vessel, who proceeded with a party to the spo^
and spent three days in endeavouring to destriy
these alligators. This man, who has been a writer
in the custom-house department at Finaog many
years, assured me, that the alligator wa9 repeated^

3:il< IIISTOUY AND ULM KIPTIUN ur THK

ly seen lying on the side of the river, with the 1^
of the unfortunate captain projecting from its
niouth, during the three days that he was in pur-
suit of liim. About twenty miles beyond Tan*
jong Pedada, on a high bank on the right side,
are the rcniains of a large fortification, well stodL*
aded with large trees ; and five miles above this
place, which is called the kubu, or fort, is Biuntan,
the former seat of government ; but there are now
only a few miserable huts here. Beyond tlns»
about ten miles, is the city of Siack, Sri Indnpui^
situated on the sides of the river ; a large and pi^
pulous town, where the king resides.

History. — Siack must have been a powerfd
kingdom about a century ago, if we credit the ac-
counts of the laj^ expeditions which are reported
to have ssuled from hence, and the conqiieBts Ofcr
the surrounding states. I shall not attempt, heir-
ever, to trace the liistory of this empire heyond the
period when the Dutch influence oommeaeed
90 years ago. The following sketch was
scribed from the personal communication of the
four chiefs or datus who were assembled on
the Honourable Company's brig Jessy, and the
reetncss of the translation may be relied upon :•— At
the time of the seat of the Siack government be-
ing at Buantan, in the reign of Sultan Abdol
Jalil Mahomed Shaw, the king's two sona wmt
named Rajah Buang and Rajah Alum. The fbt^

EAST COAST OF SUBIATRA. 939

met was raised to the dignity of Jang de per tuan
besar, and the other created Rajah Muda. These
youths were of a quarrelsome disposition, and a
mutual jealousy and dislike was the consequence.
After a very serious dispute with his yoimger bro-
ther (whose part the king was disposed to espouse),
Rajah Buang, . to escape the effects of his Other's
resentment; fled from the country, and became a
daring pirate. After cruizing for some time with
considerable success, and having collected many
prows and adherents, he proceeded to Malacca,
then in the hands of the Dutch, and, in concert
with that government, projected a scheme for pos-
sessing himself of the country. With the aid of
the Dutch, Siack was conquered, and his brother.
Rajah Alum, fled. The king, his father, was now
an old infirm man, and quite mcapable of nu^naging
the government of the kingdom ^ and Rajah Bu-
ang accordingly took the reins into his own
hands, and resided at Buantan; In consideration
of the assistance rendered to him by the Dutch, he
allowed them to establi^ a &ctory at Fulo Gun^
tong, a small island a few miles up the river. Ra^
jah Buai^ was of a restless disposition, and much
addicted to piracy ; and about eight years after-*
the occupation of the island by the Dutch, he went
on a piratical excursion. A few months afterwards
he returned, and anchored his fleet, comsisting of
a large vessds^ close to the Dutch factory at Fulo^

340 IIISXUKY AND DESi Ull'TlON OF THK

Guntong. The unsnspicious Dutch paid him cvcij
respect on his return ; and the resident or oooi*
mandant of the garrison received him and tarn
chiefs who landed. from the vessels, with great at-
tention. While sitting beside the Dutch readent.
Rajah Buang drew his kris, and stabbed him to
the heart ; and the chief officers who were in the
room, but few in number, were murdered with eqpal
dispatch by the foiur datus who accompanied the
king. This was the work of a moment ; and the
crews of the vessels, who were ready to eome on
shore upon a given signal, rushed swoid in hand
amongst the Dutch garrison, and commeoeed a g^
neral massacre : 180 Dutchmen are said to liave
perished on this occasion. This event took plaet
in the year of the Hejera 1 1 50, which makes it iq^
wards of 80 years since the Dutch ocnfried tbt
settlement There is no doubt that the Dateh^
by the severity of their measures and •»«^'*mm%
created a decree of disgust amongst all the people
of Siack, and stimulated them to expel them in
this summary way, by harsh and unjoat
ings. When Rajah Buang had thus
completely extirpating the Dutch in hia eonntiy»
he began to be apprehensive of an attack fiw
Malacca, and in consequence, removed the aeal ef
his government from Buautan to the dty of Siad^
Sri Indrapura, further up the river, wliere he
strongly fortified himself, and made

£AST COAST OF SUMATRA. 341

for a vigorous and determined resistance. Rajah
Alum, who had fled when Siack was conquered hy
his brother and the Dutch, established himself at
Batubara ; and the Dutch government, wishing to
retaUate the injuries they had sustained, and to
dethrone Rajah Buang, sent a mission to Rajah
Alum at Batubara, for the purpose of instigating
him to attack his brother with their aid, and pro-
posed to transfer the government to him. Rajah
Alum, apprehending treachery, gave the ambassa^*
dor a most inhospitable reception, and barbarously
murdered him and several of his followers. The
ship returned to Malacca, and Rajah Alum after-
wards made some overtures to the Dutch, which
ended in his visiting Malacca, and in a perfect recon-
ciliation. All necessary arrangements had been
made for his attacking Siack with the aid of the
Dutch, when news reached Malacca that Rajah
Buang had died. On his death-bed he had en-
joined his chiefs to transfer the government of the
country to Rajah Alum ; but when he died, the
datus destroyed the papers, and would not con-
sent to Rajah Alum's becoming their sovereign*
Rajah Ismael, son of Rajah Buang, was now rais-
ed to the throne. Rajah Alum's son, who had ler
maincd in the country although his &ther fled*
and was now become an enterprising youth, was
elected panglima besar. The Dutch and Rajah
Alum now attacked the country with oqa ship,

343 HISTORY AND D>:SCRIPTION OF T

two brigs, three julong julong, and twenty penjar
japs ; and after a blockade of three months, and a
severe struggle, took possession of the kingdom.
Rajah Alum was now raised to the throne, and
Rajah Ismael fled to Palembang. After govern*
iug about two years, Rajah Alum became tired of
conducting the details of state, and raised his son,
the panglima besar, whose name was Mahomet
Ally, to the throne, under the title of Sultan Ab-
dul Jalil Maalum Shaw. Rajah Ismael became a
desperate pirate, and was the terror of all the trad«
ing vessels in the straits of Malacca for many
years : his chief residence was Palembang ; and
after 22 years of successful piratical pursuits, be
collected a large force, with 1 00 sail of vessels of
various sizes, conquered Siack in three days, and
again resumed the sovereignty. After a short
reign of three years he died, and his son. Rajah
Jya Hiya, succeeded to the government, with the
title of Sultan Ahmud Shaw. He reigned about 15
years, when the government was usurped by Syed
Ally his prime minister, Tuanko Long Pntib, and
the Tuanko Pangeran ; and Syed Ally took the tide
of Sultan Abdul Jalil Shefudin. This chief aha
became tired of taking an active part in the govern-
ment; and his son Ibrahim, the present ehieC
took the principal management about 12 years
ago. The present king is styled Sultan Abdnl
Jalil Khalil-udin. Syed Akhil, who has been le^

EAST COxVSr OF SUMATRA. 843

skiing some time at Palembang, and whose pre-
tensions to the throne of Siack, it is said, the Ne-
therlands government has some intentions of sup-
porting, is the son of Rajah Musa, a descendant
of Sultan Ahmud Shaw ; but he has no just claim
whatever. Siack is no longer the powerful and
independent state it was only ] 5 or 20 years ago,
when it was a plaee of great trade. Vessels from
Java, Borneo, Celebes, and other ports, used to re-
sort to it in great numbers, and carry on a most ex-
tensive commerce. The population of the kingdom,
though still very large, has gradually declined and
decreased by numerous emigrations ; and the com-
merce has been almost, comparatively speaking,
annihilated by a religious sect in the interior, call-
ed the Rinchis, of whom I shall propecd to give ^
brief account,

Rinchis, — The Rinchis are the chiefs of a reli-
gious sect in the kingdom of Menangkabau, in
the interior of Siack, who have been gradually ex-
tending their power and influence during the last
12 or 15 years. There are four chiefs, named Tu-
anko Passman, Tuanko Malim Futih, Tuanko
Petilassan, and Tuanko Leban, besides another,
who possesses a separate district, named Tuanko
Allang Panjangf They are most rigorous in pre-
venting the consumption of opium; and punish
with death all who are detected in this indul-
gence. They prohibit coloured cloths of any de^

344 UI8T0BY AMD DibSClUPTION OF TBS

scription from being worn, and allow oalj
white. Seree, tobacco, and betel, artidei in
general use in all Malayan countriesp and
ed 80 essential to their comfort, are not pennitp
ted. Every man is obliged to shave bia hsdl,
and wear a little topey or skull-cap. No man k
permitted to converse with another^s wife ; and dii
women are obliged to cover their fiwea with •
white doth, leaving only two small holes fiv tkaiv
eyes.

Menangkabau Empire. — ^This oelebrated aid
once powerful empire, whose sovereign was held ia
veneration by all the states in Sumatim,* is^ fiha

* The fint king of Menangkabau, according to tbe Mm
lous Malayan annalsi was Sang Saporba, a detoeadsat of tks
Macedonian hero Alexander the Great, or R^pnk
ion of Rajah Darub of Rum. Sang Sapurba csai
lembang, and going in search of a countrj, he asnadsA At
Slack river. The relation is as follows :—" ^
'' left Bentan ; and having saUed for a day and nifjbt,
** at Ruko, whence he proceeded to the point of
*' ascended the river Buantan, '' (Bnantan wia tht
'' of government, a large and populous city)/' nkta^ il «■
*' reported, the country was extremely populoot. WkM hs
" had ascended far up the river, he arrived at
All the Menangkabaus were surprised at his
and the splendour of his diadem ; and they all
quire whence he came. As soon as they heard of Us adiv^
turcs, and that he was a descendant of Sultan

'* all the chief men of Menangkabau fiM'wltBd

€t
U
t€
tt

£A8T OOAST OP SUMATRA. 945

many other kingdoms which have risen to power
and splendour, now disunited and partitioned into
innumerable petty states, sometimes at war, and
sometimes in friendly alliance with each other.
The province in which the Rinchis reside is called
Agum. The distance by water to their place of re-
sidence firom Slack, is seven days, and across the
country three days' journey. Tanah Datar is
another province, of which Tuanko Seman is the
chief. The capital town is Lintow, where the
chief resides. Lebban is a large province, divided
into innumerable petty commands. Tuanko LcIk
ban is the chief. AUang Panjang is another lai^ge
province, the chief of which bears the same name.

pointing him rajak^ since they had none ; and aftet he had,
as a eondition^ sacoeeded in destroying an immense snake

** which harrassed the country, he was unanimously elected
rajah by the people of Buantan ; and of him are descend-
ed all the generations of the rajahs of Pagaruyoog.

Sangfaiia Utama afterwards quitted Bentan> and founds
ed the dty of Singapura, situated on the southern mctre-
mity of the Malayan peninsula. This event is supposed
to have taken place a. d. 1160.

The successors of Sang Nila Utamu were Paduku Sri

'' Wikrama, Sri Rama Wikrama^ and Sekandu Shah, who
being driven out of Singapnra (the present Sincapoo), by the
Majapahit forces, afterwards established the dty of Ma-

" lacca. His successor, Mahomed Shah, first embrace4 Ma^

'' hdoetamsm in the year 1276." — Malayan Annals,

Raffled Java, page 110, voL Sd.

€t
€«

€€
it
€t
it

€t

€<
€€

346 IIISTOKY AND DLSCKIPTIUN OF THE

Fda Kumboo is said to l)c the largest and
populous province of the whole.

The following were mentioned as some of the
principal places and chiefs about half a months
journey inland of Siack, viz. Kapunahan, Ramln^
Tumosei Kanto, Ujong Batu, the chiefs of whkh
are styled Jang de per tuan or his Majesty ; and
they are represented to be populous districts. Be-
sides these, may be mentioned Batu gajah Dedsf^
Karikan, Kuban, Leantan, and Tandong, all nn>
der different rajahs.

The above are tlie principal provinces and dis-
tricts forming the great kingdom of Menangkahaa.
The chief town or capital of the Menangkaban em-
pire, is, or was, Pagar Uyong, where the king used
to reside. His Majesty was put to death nuuy
years ago by the Rinchis, and there is no king at
present ; the power of these chiefs being predomi-
nant. There is a communication with the Me-
nangkabau states from Kampar, Reocan, Sin^
and Indrigiri.

Hostilities with the Dutch. — ^Tbere is a repsrt
that the Dutch from Padang, who have been figkt-
ing for some time past with the Rinchis^ have
tablishcd themselves at Semaboo, two days*
ney inland of Padang, and are making rapid
gross in conquering the country.

Former Qmmerce. — The Tuanko Pangican
says, that in former years, when thirty or ftity

EAST COAST OF SUMATRA. 347

large Buggese prows, richly laden, used to come to
Slack in a year, and many ships and brigs from
Java, Coromandel, &c., the commerce was immense.

He estimated the imports of salt at 1000 coyans
a-year," or 2500 tons, 600 or 700 chests of raw
silk, and 100 chests of opium. The export of gold
was never less than three peculs weight in a year.
The country still possesses the same resources as
formerly ; but the internal disturbances have caused
ft temporary suspension of trade, which might, with
some management and political interference, soon
he i^stored again to its wonted activity and pro-
sperity ; and thousands of people, who are now
groaning under the yoke of the most bitter tyranny,
be restored to happiness and comfort. I only sug-
gest this for consideration. There is no doubt
that the trade of the interior might be drawn down
to Siack again, which coidd not fail to be of im-
mense advantage to Pinang. No doubt the Dutch
have some deep scheme in attacking the Rinchis
from Padang, and applying for a settlement at
Siack. If they eflFect this, the whole country will
be under their controul. I hope, however, the Bri-
tish government will not be inattentive to its own
interests, and support its just pretensions, founded
upon the treaty of Cdonel Farquhar, of 1818|
which entirely precludes the Dutch from forming
any settlefnent, or interfering in the internal ad-
pin istration of the country.

318 HI8TOBY iUfD UKSCRIPTION OF THE

Source of the River.— \t luu been a gnenllj
received apinion, that the three great riven Siadc^
Indri^^ and Jamfai, are united at thar mantSL
Tuanko Long, who has long been in the coantry,
assured me that such is the case ; but the Tuanko
Fangiran, whose information I should be dispo^
ed to prefer, and several other people mentioiied
that the river takes its rise a considersble ^^■^^"ff
fixim the foot of the mountains, and is formed of
a collection of small streams and rivulets ; and
whidi uniting, and being joined by other larger
rivers in their progress towards the sea, fiinni
one of the noblest rivers on the island for depth
and safety.

Soil and jigriculture.—Tbe banks of the Siadc
river, afler passing Pulo Guntong, gradually ris^
and the smi is a very rich black mould upon elay»
the upper stratum of various degrees of depth, from
one and a half to eight feet There is an immense
extent of excellent land, well adapted for the cnl-
tivatiou of paddy, pepper, sugar-eane, && At pre-
sent, the cultivation of the two latter is limited to
the consumption of the inhabitants of the country.
The ladangs, or paddy plantations, are numenua
all along the banks of the river. Gambir used to
be cultivated to some extent ; and ships might be
loaded with it, if the natives had enconngement
to give their attention to its culture the aoil beifl|g
particularly favourable.

EAST COAST OF SUMATRA. 849

3lMi6fr.— Few countries can bosst of sach an
exteadye Tariety of excellent timber finr ship-bmld-
ing, and other usefiil purposes, as Siadc* The fol-
lowing is a list of sixteen of the prindpal sorts, of
which supplies to any extent might be procured upon
very reasonable terms. Musters of all these were
presented to me by the Tuanko Pangiran, and are
now in my possession : — Komodan, for ships' knees ;
Dam Daru, masts and chests ; Koras, ships' tim-
bers ; Giam, ships* planks as good as teak ; M^
dang putih, ships' and house planks ; Kulim, jdanks
as timbers; Russa, ships' planks; Perapo, house
planks; Medang kiming, ship or house jdanks;
Mirbow, ditto and furniture ; Serapat, ships'
masts; Medang brawas, house planks; Koras
Kes^ ships* timbers; Medang Kalaboo, diips^
planks ; Medang Pergura, ditto ; Arang, or ebony,
for furniture, handles of swinrds, kris, ftc

Towns aftd VUlages. — Up the Mandow riTcr,
which is one day's sail from the town of Siack,
there is a great number of people quite wild, who
wear only the bark of trees, some of the webs of
which are in my possession. In appearance diese
people resemble the Malays.

Beyond this is Snngei Kassip, also baring
many inhabitants ; and Sungei Perawang, with so-
Teral viUages. The viUages are on the Sia^ ri-
ver. Beyond this are Kampong Tibbing l^igi,
Melubbang, Penkambang, Siar, and Kampong Fla-

STiO IIISTOIIV AND DESCKLPTlUN OK THii

kaiikani ; to which places vessels of conriderable
burden ascend, lliis is the principal mart in the
country. Sungei Tappang Kanan, and numenrnfe
small villages; after which comes Petupahan, a
large and populous town, and a place of great trade
with the natives of the interior.

Distances. — From Siack to Pakanharu is twe
days' sail ; thence to Petupahan one day ; to Kantar
by land, two days ; to Padar Nonang, two days
farther; and from thence to Pagar Uyong, the
former residence of the king of Menangkabaoi
three days. The country is studded with villages
all the way.

Boundary and Dominion. — The dominion of
Siack nominally extends from Tlmian to Katu-
mahan ; but the authority is only partially acknow-
ledged at certain places, although all the principal
states between these two ports have been at vi^
nous times reduced to submisdon.

Government — ^The government of Siadi la lit
present in the hands of Sultan Abdul Jalil Kha-
lil-ttdin, whose ministers are the Tuanko Panglima
besar, and four datus, named Sri Pakama fiqali^
Sri Bijiwangsa, Maharajalela Muda, and Tuan
Imam. These chiefs, in conjunction with the kingp
decide all matters of importance relating to the go-
vernment of the country. In most Malayan, as in
European states, we find a certain number of com^
tiers round the cliief, whose principal oocnpatioB i|

EAST COAST OF SUMATRA. 85>

to foment disturbances, and endeavour to prejudice^
by every species of caliunny and insinuation, others
who attend quietly to the performance of their du-
ties, and know nothing of the ooiurt tricks. These
sycophants ingratiate themselves into the £ivouv
and confidence of their chief, by the basest servility
and duplicity. Their whole profession is intrigue,^
and a principal part of their duty is laying j^ota
for the destruction of their rivals, who may be dis^
tinguished for their talents and unostentatious vi^•
tues ; and by representing them perhaps as disat
feqted to the government. No service is too de-
grading to these wretches ^ no ends deemed ill^al
ar improper for the attainment of their vile ptir-*
poses. After having won the favour of their chief,*
and entwined themselves into his a£Pairs, so that he
cannot shake them off, however much he may.havi^
cause to alter his sentiments, by having casudly
detected their dufdicity, they are the foremost to
plot his destruction, to screen themselves from ex-
posure, and the consequences of detected villainy^
Syed Ally, the former king of Siack, was a man
of this sort : he gained the favour and confidence
of the former king, whose prime minister he was ;
and was all the while plotting, and ultimately com-'
pleted, his destruction.

Beventies and Duties. — I really cannot pretend
to give any satisfactory estimate of the revenues.
They must, however, be considerable; but as na

359 HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF THE

aoorants are kept, and certain persons are ezemptf
as in other Malayan states, it is impossible to judge
of the amount of duties, even if the quantity of
goods imported and exported could be aaoertainedp
which is imposmble.

The duties are as follows :—

Imports. — On opium, SO dollars per chest ; salt.
8 dollars per coyan ; ditto, Java, 10 dollars per
^tto; raw silk, 5 per cent ; European and coast
doths, 5 per cent. ; and merchandize, imported in
junks of all sorts, 5 per cent.

fd^iorto.— Gahru, 25 dollars per pecnl; wax^
S dollars per ditto; gambir, i dollar per ^tto;
fish-roes, 2i dollars per 1000 ; salt-fish, 2 doUan
per 1000 ; and sago, 8 dollars per coyan.

All other articles arc free of export or import
duty.

Vessels. — ^There are said to be about 400 prowa
of various descriptions employed in trader belonging
to SiacL The king has built, and is buildings *
great many new ones. The Arabs own many large
tops ; and there is a small brig or two owned bjr
some of them.

Commerce. — Although the trade of Siaek hai
been so materially circumscribed within the last
fifteen years, there is still a very oonriderable comn
merce ; their vessels proceeding with the prodnoe
of the country in great numb(»^ to Malacca and
Singapore, and some few extending their voyage to

'- £p

£1ST COAST Ot SUMATRA* 353

Pfalaiig. The prlndpal exports of the stMe are
rattans, Tis. jemang, batu and semamboo, dammar,
kayu lakar or dye-wood, ebony, agila wood, wax,
ivory, silk cloths, camphor, tdur trobo or fish-roes^
and gold.

The imports of Siack may be enumerated as
follows :— Coast doths, consisting of chdopans,
murehs, shecurtams, and other Uue and white
cloths ; kain gajah, or coarse brown doth ; kalamka-
lies, chawals. Sunt and Mnchili Bundar chintaei ;
European chintses, and white doths ; chindies, dik
and cotton, taffaties, gold thread, raw silk, kasdm-
ba, ambalu, siam or gumlac, coarse plates and
dishes, salt, quallies, coflSse, iroti, sted in ban and
tubs, hoop iron, tobacco Java, Madianfc pddi or
ptedous stones from Ceylon and other places^ for
rings and ornaments; gunpowder, tin, muskets^
swivels, and opium.

75n. — ^Tin-ore is found up the Mandow river ;
but so Uttlc do the natives understand the process
of smelting it, that they are obliged to import what
they require for thdr own use from other countries.

I#^ar.— The Icbba, or bees-trees, are very abun-
dant in the interior of Siack; and the Tuanko
Pan^ran assured me, that SOOO pcculs of beef>
wax might be obtained in a year, under a good
system of management*

Arms. — ^The king of Siack has a great number
of large iron and brass ordnance, and swivda imiu*

£ABT COAST OF SUMATRA. 355

tA sOk sear^ five cubits long by one «nd a half
wide, richly wrought with gold thread, worn some-
times as a girdle by the king and chiefi^ and as a
scarf thrown over the head or across the shoulder
of the finnaks of the richer class.

Kain lepas or safindang, an elegant scarf of pur-
ple silk, with a deep crimson border, vandyked
with gold thread, the body of alternate square and
&rBl spots of goli thread. The length is five cu-
bits, and breadth two. This is worn like the chi-
lari. Salindang ayer mas, a splendid scarf of party
cokmred silk, with crimson border of the same.
Salindang etam, a dark blue cotton doth, of Euro-
pean or Madras manufacture, richly stamped with
gold flowers, and vandyke border. This is worn
as the others ; four cubits long, by two wide. Sa-
lindang, a purple scarf like the above. Salindang
polangei,' a cotton scarf, frequently worn as a tur-
ban, and much prized in idl Malayan countries.
It if of a purple colour, and the ends of crimson,
stamped with green, yellow, and other colours.'
Salindang onguh, a purple cotton scarC dyed in
the country, worn by the poorer classes. Besides'
these may be mentioned the sarong or tartan silk
petticoat, of which there is a vast variety of beau-
tiful patterns.

Serawal panjang* or long pantaloons of purple
silk, richly wrought under the knee as far as the
ande, with gold thread. Serawal sitra, or beautiful^

356 HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF THE

purple coloured silk breeches, reaching to the knae^
and elegantly wrought with gold thmd.

Saputangan pulangei, or a handkerchief fixr the
head, of a purple colour, with a fimdfiil botdo^
curiously stamped. These are the &Toiirite weir
for the head, but expensive.

Saputangan etam or dark blue handketdiMC
stamped like the salindang, with gold flowen.

The women are the manufiicturera
doths. There is no doubt that manj
might be successfully imitated in England,
the cotton doths particularly, manufactured at
reduced prices. These are articles in constant de-
mand in most of the Malayan states ; and ex{
sive sales might be made, provided due attentai
were given to the patterns and dimennoos. Maaf
imitations, however, in England, of Indian
tures, have failed lately, from a want d dm
these respects; the Malays being
having the cloths of an exact length and brenddL

The authority of Siack extends to Taii|o^g
Katumahan near Rhio, between which are the
following places : —

llantow, under a datu, a great place for aaga

Scrapong, containing SOO inluibitants, under a
pungulu. The produce sago.

Kampar, Jang de per tuan, a place of very eoB-
uderablc trade at present, many vessels fimn Sn-
gaiK>re proceeding there for rattans, &c

EAST COAST OF SUMATRA. 357

Mirba, under a pungulu, having 100 inhabit-
ants. Produce sago.

Katumahan, also under a pungulu^ and SOO
people reside there.

Then comes Indragiri, under the sultan of Lm-
gin. Little comparatively is known of this river,
except that it is reported to be navigable for ves-
sels of considerable burden ; and the country is
stated to be populous. The before-mentioned
places, however, being beyond the limits of my
inquiries, I shall not attempt to describe them
more particularly at present, although I procured
all the information at Siack r^arding them that
was attainable.

The government may be assured, that nothing
in the forcing report has been stated without
due inquiry and sufficient authority ; and I lost no
opportunity of ascertaining any points on which I
felt a doubt to exist, before 1 ventured to include
them in this history ; or where any doubts still re-
main, I have noticed them. I rely, therefore, on
the candour of govemment» to excuse any involun*^
tary errors.

APPENDIX,

«
f

APPENDIX,

No. I.

To R. IBBETSON, Esq.
Six,

Tbx hoDOundile the governor in council having
resolved to employ yonr services on a missioD of a highly
oonfidoitial and impcvtant nature, I am directed to ad*
yise you thereof without delay, and to communicate the
nature of the aervice on which you are about to proceed,
9s well as the detailed instructions which must guide
your conduct ao^ proceedings throughoiit the progress
ofit

% It has for some time past been an object c^ anxious
consideration with government to adopt some moderate
and consistent plan for improving our relations with the
eastern coast o( Sumatra, and for extending by that
means, if possible, our intercourse with the countries in
the interior, which are reported to be highly flourish-
ing. The views of this government have been often di*
rected to this important object Mr Jdm Scott was de.
puted to Siack so early as June 1806 ; Mr F. Garling in
April 1807; and again Mr F. Lynch in Jply 1806 ; b|it

362 AFPKNUIX.

although the report of the lust individual much cxtcmki
our geographical infonnation respecting tliat coa&t (a& nmj
be seen bv the valuable additions to tlic last cditioo nf
INIarsdcn^s Sumatra), and detennincd particularlj ike
Siack river to be navigable to a great extent for wcmA if
considerable burden ; yet the moral condition of ifce
chiefs and people has been represented to be so hosdk t»
friendly relations, from their universal attachment to pincj,
and the mischievous eifects of anarchy and miu-ule,
no reasonable ground has existed for establishing
and more secure commercial intercourse between llii
island and the numerous ports which line the
coast

3. Of late, however, many circumstances have
to render the attempt to accomplish such on object
inviting, as well as its policy more important
able. We have concluded a commercial treafj witk the
most powerful chief on that coast, the rajah of Siack,
received our negociator in 1818, with every
lion of respect, and of a desire to improve Ms
with the British government. We have recnml the
thority of the supreme government, even to form a
tish establishment at Siock, should it appear to this
vemment to be expedient ; and three chiefs on that
tho rajahs of ])elli, Sherdang, and Assahan, hare
o|X!ned a correspondence with the governor, that ii
some desire of improving their relations with this
mcnt ; and lastly, the Netherlands government haie
cupied Uhio, Malacca, and Padang; and their eAuta la
divert to those ))oris the greatest portion of the trade of
Sumatra, cati nnlv l)e frustrated bv our reminding the
native rhi'»is «»f tlw mnrc lihrral nnd nfipT'icallv hmej"

APPBMDIX. 363

cial course of measures pursued by the British govern-
ment

4. Without the danger, therefore, of embarrassing
ourselves with the disputes of any of the native chiefs,
the honourable th^e governor in council considers that
the time has arrived when we may endeavour to procure
a more extensive and intimate knowledge of the ports and
people in this neighbourhood, and even to derive, by a
judicious course of measures^ some permanent commercial
advantages fiir this establishment. It is f<^ this purpose
you have been selected ; and the governor in council
confides fi>r a fiivourable and gratifying result^ in his
knowledge of your qualifications of integrity, temper, ex-
perience, and knowledge of the Malay language. As the
agent of this government on the present occasion, your
attention will be devoted to a visit o£ the whole of the
eastern coast of Sumatra, firom Jambi to Tamiang, in or.
der to execute the following objects :— -

1. To coast the shores, and ascertain as far as possible
tbeir character and navigation, commencing at the river
Jambi, the southernmost place and port

51. To visit each port or place of any consequence oq
the coast; collect the best infinmation on the spot concern*
ing its natural, commercial, and political advantages; the
extent and nature of its resources, productions, imports,
and exports ; the precnse nature of the revenue, and au-
thority of its government ; the number, character, and
principal occupations of its inhaUtants ; the principal ar-
ticles forming its staples, as well as those of foreign com-
merce in demand there ; the nature and extent of its in-
tercourse with the countries in the interior (especiidly

3M APPENDIX.

McnangkalMui) ; and every nlfinahln infomunion

ing the character, purMiitf, and wants cf the inhabkaHli

of the interior countries.

S. To wait on erery respectable chief on that ooastt cad
ascertain as fiur as possible his character and hahilBi wmi
the nature and extent of his jurisdiction ; apptba Uas cf
the sincere desire of this goremment to establish a fiisnd^
If and mutually beneficial conuneraalinteraoane behnsan
this island and his state, and of the anxious irish and d^
sire of this government to suppress and diicouragB tkt
scandalous system of piracy ; and further, invite Ua^ hj
every conastent inducement, to join this gDvennnsnl in
accomplishing these denrable objects.

4. To endeavour to persuade each diicf on thni caasi^
of the advantage and policy cf fixing a rqgubr and ■».
derate rate cf duties to be levied on the oonnnsrae cf Ma
port, instead cf the existing mischievous system of
trary duties and presents in kind, exaded fima
and cfNnmanders of vessels; with this view to cfateiub '
posnble, a document under the hand and seal of cnah
chief, and those of his principal nobles^ ■•■f Vi*«*g tbai
the subjects of the British government who nsort to
port, shall in future pay customs, duties^ and aH
charges, according to a fixed and stated rate^ in the
manner as his own subjects and all other
ing this port are required to pay ; and thai they
permitted to go to whatever part of his ^'^^■ntfftt
think proper, either to buy or sell, in person or hj Ihrir
agents, at any time ; and that they are on no
be stopped, molested, or oppressed, while so
4Ik1 demeaning tbcnuwlvcs peaceably. The

APPENDIX. 96B

be apprited, that similar immuiMties have alwa3r8 been af-
fijcded at this island to the merchants and mariners be-
longing to their respecdve dominions.

6. To visit every river on that coast; asoend, and as-
certahiy as far as possible, its comrse and navigation ; the
extent and natmre of the trade it conveys from and to the
artttior ; and the situatioa and character of the places to
iriiich such is carried.

6. The honourable the governor deems it advisable
to cautiott you particularly not to involve yourself in any
disputes which may subost between the different native
dudk, nor to pursue any measures of a poUtical tendency,
or calculated to interfere with the Netherlandish authori-
ties» particularly as far as concerns the subjects and do-
minions of the sultan of Palembang. The principal ob-
jects of your mission, in £M;t, are as follows, vix. :— ^

First and chiefyf To obtain, by means of a respon*
«Ue and accredited agent, an authentic, exact, and un-
biassed account of the resources and condition of the dif-
Cerent states on the eastern coast of Sumatra.

SecondjUfy To prevent Malacca and Rhio from engross-
ing the trade hitherto flowing from Siack and the eastern
coast to this port

. Thirdhfy To ascertain if it be practicable, as supposed
by many, to bring down again to the eastern side of Su*
matra, the trade from Menangkabau, and the reputed
flourishing countries in the interior; it bong certain tbat
the course of that trade flowed through the lai^ riven
of Siack^ Indragiri, &c., before it was diverted to the
Dutch settlement of Padang and the west coast And,

LatO^ To collect every information reelecting tlie
productions of the interior countries, said to s^und irith

AFPSKDIX^ 307'

whom it will be expedient for you to communicifte. The
country between Rantau and Jambi b said to be suljgect
to the rajah of Lingin; and the governor in council
should certainly be reluctant to depute an agent from
this government, to any part of the dominions of that
chief, did he not feel assured, that the objects of such a
miflsion being purely commercial, its friendly visit cannot
by any means clash against the political powers of any
neighbouring British government. You will therefore'
not fail to keep this feeling in your mind, in executing,
such objects as your mission may call for in that quarter.

10. The allowances that will be granted to you during
jfour employment in the present service, as well as the
arrangements that will be made for the conduct of your
loeal duties while absent, will be communicated to you in
another letter.

11. The honourable the govenunr in council has deter^
nuned to avail himself of the scientific knowledge and pe-
culiar talents of Lieutenant Crooke, of the 20th regimentyi
by providing you with their application ; and he has been
accordingly appointed assistant and surveyor to the mis^
non, on a personal salary of 200 dollars per monthr
Lieutenant Crooke has been advised of this appcnntment,
and desired to refer to you for idl further instructions^
connected with the objects of your mission.

IS. In addition to the objects before enumerated, your;
attention must also be directed to collect every possible
information with respect to the natural history and anti*
quitiesof the countries you may visit; the state of their
soil, and the nature and extent of its cultivation ; the eus^
toms or taxes levied ; and the principal arts practised by

30B APFBIfDiX.

the inhflbitoitt ; and yew will make it a point to pracoK^
by purchase or otherwise, and bring back irith joa tknm
each place you visit, specimens of every manft&etuK or
work of art which may be worthy of remark on a oeot m t
of the skill of the natives, and rareness or eserileneirof
the materials. A variety of drugs and medicinal hevba
are imported from these countries; and a k n oiHed| g a
of their qualities, as well as a collection of any prntioi-
lariy useful or rare, may be an olgect worthy c^ jour at*
tention.

IS^ Yon are particidarly instructed to keep the gn>
v e rament regularly informed of the p ro g r es s of the bh-
aon, by taking every opportunity of forwarding reports
by vessels and small craft bound U> this port With this
view you should keep a regular and a cc u r a te diaiy of
your proceedings, and forward a transcript of the wame
to the latest period, by each opportuni^. These repofts
will be delivered back on your return, to cndble yon la
prepare a correct and complete account of the pwiceeJ
ings of the mission.

* 14. You shouM desire Lieutenant Craoke to fwiuli
himsrif with such mathematical instruments (thermoBSC^
ter, chronometer, sextant, and theodolite), as nmy be pn^
curable here ; and while your attention is devoled to tkr
government, population, manners, produetionB, and
merce of the countries you visit, that of your
and surveyor should be directed te keep a
and topographical diary, and collect information on thof
cKmatc, geography, topography, and mi
ments, if any, as well as to ascertain the military
tages in point of situatkm and defence, of the

MFnvDtx. 969

harbours and mariume ports, and tbe best ineluis of
curing the navigation of the larger rivers. The governor
in council cannot expect that Lieutenant Crooke can have
time or opportunity to make an actual survey of the
countries visited ; but he has no doubt that his talents
will qualify him to farm a map of the country, and chart
of the coast, sufficient to promote the intet^sts of geogra-
phy, although not perhaps exactly calculated for the pur-
pose of the navigator, by defining the latitude and lon-
gitude of the different places at which the misuon touches^
with their relative portion and distance. .

15. Yon. will be aUowed to draw for the sum of 1000
doUars, to provide for such contingencies as may arise in
the course of the mission ; and are desired to transmit a
a list of such arudes of European manufacture as you
may conceive to be requisite, as presents to the different
native chiefs you may visit ; and among the presents, you
should prefer chiefly English broad*ck>th^ chintzes^ cot-
tons, and musUns, in order to give the chiefs and pecqde
a taste for our manufactures. Scientific and mathemati-
cal instruments should also be.chosen ; books with plates,
particularly Horsburgh^s and Dalrymple^s charts of the
straits of Malacca, together with Testaments atid reli-
gious tracts in the Malayan language, and any other
books or works calculated to promote useful knowledge^;
and diffuse geographical information amoi^ the natives^;
You will keep a r^ular and separate account of. tbe. ap-^
propriation of the cash, and the distribution of the pro*:
sents, as well as of any returns that, agreeably to Maliiy,
custom, may be made. Your own personal expences on

2 a

^ AmNDIZ.

jocouDt of the mianon will be defrayed od yoor retmi^
at the public expeoce.

16. The hooounbie the governor in ooundl ift pkaad
to desire that jou will obtain the services of a natm
pilot, acquainted with the navigation of the eastern cosil
of Sumatra, a copying clerk, two Peons and a liali^
Moonsbce; and you will also be furnished with a s u if ahi r
tent and two lascars from the magazine.

17. The necessary instructions have also been given
for preparing a military escort from the 90th regimcaly
consisting of one havildar, two mucks, and 16 sepojs, aD
Mussulmen, and a pcnrtion selected from such as woe
formerly trained to the exercise of great guns. The i^
quisite supplies of ammunition and provinoos calcnbiad
for a consumption of three months, for the whole of the
natives attached to the mission, will also be embarked.

18. The governor in council desires me particularly Is
caution you and Lieutenant Crooke not to aUow a as^
guine seal and ardour to mislead you into an
has been very prevalent, and productive of great n
nience, via. the formation of voluminous reports, and
magnified tables of calculations, founded on
tion and insufficient data. You will best exhibit
intelligence, seal, and diligence, in collecting
a list of facts as possible, and in recording those
your diaries in the most simple language ; so thai iha
supreme authorities may have the opportunity, as wril as
this government, of forming their own condnsii
them. As a guide particularly to yourself and
nant Crooke, the governor in council has

APPBN]»Z. 371

Mooompanjing list of queries and memoraoda, which I
am desired to inclose, with a request that the same may
form a portion of your respective inquiries and obser^
rations.

lamj SiBf

Your most obedient Servant,

(Signed) W. A. Clublbt,

Secielaiy to Governments
Fori CormnBUy \M Jf<y 1820*

(Tru€ Copy.)

(Signed) W. S. Cbacboft,

Acting Secretarj to GovemmenU-

No. II.

Memoranda relating io the Principal Heads of Inquiry and
Observation required of Mr Ibbetson.

GOVEENMENT AND POPULATION.

Present government and religion of each state, and
under what description of principal officers, foreign and
native ?

Character, personal appearance, habits, history of the
chief and his principal officers, whether addicted to piracy
and war, or to commerce, and the quiet pursuits of Ufe ?

The pomputed amount and nature of the revenues of
each chief?

Influence of Europeans on the chief and his officers, 83
to their buildings, style of living, dress or habits, &c.

Disposition towards the English ?

General opinions and prejudices ?

Manners of the people, quiet and temperate, or disso-
lute, in the state generally ; what degree of intercourse
with people of other countries, and its results and efiects?

Are intoxicating liquors much drank, or opium or
other inebriating substances much used ?

Comparative comforts and condition generally of chiefs
and people ; how is wealth spent, used, or amassed, by
each ?

Names of the principal chiefs of each state ; where rer
sident, and in what circumstances generally ?

374 APPBNDIX.

Nature of the buildbgs of each dam tespee^velj^ aa ta
materials, durability, ntuatioD, and coinfort, fcc ?

Number and account of places of worship^ if any ?

Form, quantity* and auUerials, cf the flothii^ of iht
natives ; and bow does diffierence of rank show itadf ?

Nature of the equipages or conveniencea of canwga
among each class in the imerior, and what fiwilitj of pi^
curing horses, bearers, &c ?

Disposition of the natives to labour ; what diare, giaau
er or less, do the women take in it ; and bj what ^e an
either sex incapacitated for their employment?

Emigration or settling of strangeiv ; to what iiUi^
and where or whence ?

What factories, public or private ; where situated ; and
for what manufacture or commodities ?

Ascertain the nature and extent of the juriadictiaB of
each chief; whether his authority is well estabGahcd, and
exercised with wisdom and mildness; and whedwr iks
appearance of his country in general is flourishii^ mad
the habits of his people contented and indostriouL

Do any means suggest themselves for the iinp of ci ent
of tlie comforts or condition of any claaS| wUdi would
prove rcceptable ?

Present state of useful knowledge in each aCale^ and iha
disposition of the natives to receive instrucUon ?

What general fadliUes afforded to procure audi ?

Estimated number of Chinese, Chuliahs, and
where chiefly found in each state ; tb«r
the arts and manufactures?

Islomism how far supposed on the
and from what apparent caus(!s ?

AFPXNDIX. 375

Are natives proTeflBiDg Cbristiaiiity in any niudber in
the district ; in what circumstances, and how employed ?

Frevalency of diseases generally ; by what, directly or
indirectly, brought on, and in what degree fatal ?

Frevalency of the small-pox, and practice of vaccination
nther received or known ?

D^ree of mortality in each state; where least and
greatest, and from what apparent causes?

Slaves^ thmr kind and condition, and selling or buying
of children; under what circumstances practised ; to what
extent ; and whence procured.

The practice of cannibalism, if prevalent in any dis-
trict ; to what extent, and where ?

Names of chiefs of each town, known for their talents,
wealth, or respectalnlity ?

MAMUFACTUBSS AND TAADE.

What are the staple manufactures of the state, and
where principally established, under any of the following
heads?—

1. Articles of clothing, &c. ; as silks, muslins, gauzes,

cloths, &c.
S. Household goods; as earthen-ware, metals, hard*

ware, mats, rope, &c.
S. Articles of food, &c. as sugar, salt, saltpetre, salt-
fish, and roes, &c.
4. Of dyes, as indigo, &c.
Nature and progress of each respectively ?
What other articles of any kind, and particularly such
as may employ the commerce of this port, are manu-
factured ?

376 ArPBNiiix.

What arc the principal objects of the internal trade of
the district?

What are the exports of the state, raw and mannfaO"
tured; the ports whither principally exportn), and to
what extent ?

What articles, raw or manufactured, are ua ported;
whence, aiid to what number ; and are they Sag the ea^
sumption of the distrirf, or for re«xportat]oa ?

What fisheries, &c. are there, which affixd cmplojaeat
to any consideiable number of natives.

Description of vessels and boats employed in intcnsl
navigation. Sec. ; their load, for what commodities employ-
ed, and to and from what places conveyed ?

What is the proportional value of the csqiarts and im-
ports ; and is the trade of the state increising or Mil
and how far capable of extension ?

What are the prindpal sources of subsistence of tlie
state ; and arc the bulk of the people usually supported
from its own produce ?

What articles of commerce have cnuidenhly risen or
fallen in price within the hist 10 or SO yean, and from
what causes ?

A price current of the usual value of the necessaries of
life, and of the principal articles of forrign and domcslie
tratlc.

Account, local names, and variations of the scales of
diflcrcnt measures and weights, compared with the sodn
in use at Pinang ; and what local rules obtmn ■ ■ywjM^
their application ?

What is the number of prows and other vessek cm-
]»loycd in the foreign trade ?

\V!in< is ilic oMiniatrd ([iMntifv o\ produce brought to

APPENDIX. 377

Pinang ; and every information respecting the nature and
extent of the commerce carried on between each port and
thb island ?

What are the principal articles of European and In<p
dian manufactures in demand at each port f

What are the specific duties or customs levied at each
port ; whether presents are made to the chief, or a rate
fixed ? If the latter, an authentic list of the duties should
be procured.

What are the internal taxes or imports, md particu-
larly what are charged at the Quallas, or mouths of rivers ;
and what embarrassments are thrown against the naviga-
tion of the rivers ?

What languages and dialects are spoken and under-
stood, and where and among whom severally prevailing
in each state ?

State of literature, and what its signs, a^ so considered
by the natives ?

What knowledge of astronomy, physics, law, medicine,
kc, and where obtained ?

Astrology, magic, witchcraft, &c. to what extent prac-
tised, and how far yielding to enlightening knowledge ?

HISTORY, &c.

In what records are the earliest accounts of each state,
and how far deserving of credit ?

Ancient extent of the state, and ancient divisions ; and
how far still preserved locally.

Who are the supposed abori^nes of the country, and
what traditions are known of them ?

378 AFPBNDIZ.

By whal chiefs originally poueatcd, and what k v^
eordal of them ?

When did the government assume a regvlar
and through whom ?

What accounts exist of the diiefs and of their
ttve dynasties, and of the state of the country under

At what period ^ras the country invaded or
by foreigners ; and when, and under what
did they come ?

What emigrations of the people are on veoord ?

What were the former rehuions with the kingdom sf
Meoangkabau ; and what records or tradiliona cskt sf
the ancient power and authority of that state ?

At what periods, whence, and under what di
have Europeans visited the country ?

AGRICOX.TURS, HUSBANDRY,

Nature and name of the prevailing soils (surfaoe
subsoil) of each state, and their general
and quality ?

In what degree severally productive or
arc they usually occupied, and for what
suited?

Quantity of water or waste ?

Effect d[ inundaticm or run ?

How wooded ; and size, quality, and name of
other useful and rare trees ?

Grcneral system of husbandry, in preparing land
culture ?

What arc the different agricultural impkmeBta in
how far fitted for the purpose, and what is their ooat?

AJPFJUNBIX. 879

What are their principAl crops and their seasons of
harvest?

What cfopB of small and inferior gmias, and of roots,
pulse, &c. are raised ?

What vc^tables and other esculent, not indigenous,
are cultivated, and what is the produce ?

Is land anywhere appropriated for grazing?

Wh^t inferior live stock att reared, as poultry, geese,
&C. ; with what success, and for what market, if any ?

The following queries may be applicable, in a more or
less degree, to the different articles of Malay l^^
culture and produce, viz. paddy, pqpper, tobaooo,
hemp, cotton, spices, teak, rattans, betel-nut, &c.

Where cultivated, to what extent, and of what impor*
tance to the state, its varieties, and their local names ?

In what soil, or under what circumstances, does it thrive
best?

Doth it require land exclusively for its cultivation, or
soon exhausts it by successive crops, and what kind of
manure and tilth is given ?

How is the seed prepared for prcqpagating, when sown,
and how ?

Much or little after culture required or given ?

Are the crops much liable to injury of any kind, or to
disease fifom mildew, &c. ?

When does the seed vegetate and ripen for the sickle
or fanner ; is the product usually abundant or scanty, fine
or coarse ; and what is the iisqal produce per acre or
orlong?

How many crops are produced annually of the article ;
at what seasons reaped or gathered ; and which keeps best^
or is most profitable f

380 APPBNDIK.

Mode of gathering, cleaning, and prescnring peppv,
bctcl-nut, cotton, tobacco, &c and spices, if a
what arc the average prices per pecul of such
ditics?

Extent and nature of lands bearing rattans ; mode €f
collecting them ; quantity, quality, and average priee ef
the same ?

Extent and nature of teak and other forests ; quaBliC|r
and quality of that and other valuable timbers^ and atv^
rage prices of the same ?

Is the produce of the grain for the oonsinnpcion of the
Btate, and suflSdent for it, or for exportation, and wimt
to?

Does the husbandry of the state appear to be h a
course of progressive iroprovemenL Estimated prapoftioa
of land in the state under tillage and waste P

NATURAL UISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES.

Names, local as well as European, of the dillmnt kinda
cif animals which are uncommon or (leculiar to the comi*
try ; their characteristic marks, and peculiarities as to age,
bi/e, habits, qualities, or uses, &c.

What animals particularly abound or infest the coun*
try or towns, hurt the crops, are ferocious, or othcnrHe
injurious ?

What arc the birds common to the state, or rate or
remarkable for their song, plumage, habits, use Ifar
luod, &c. ?

S|M}cies of fish usually found on the coast, or in parti*
cular rivers, tanks, &c.

Is tlic >upp)y vurioiiri; abundant, and good for food; of

APPBNDIX. 361

what kind and size, and their season of perfection ; how
caught and presarved, and to what market sent ?

Names of plants spontaneously produced, whose fruit,
juice, flower, stems, or roots, are articles of diet, or of the
materia mtdicoj or applied to domestic uses and the arts
of dyeing, &c. ?

What are the chief mineral productions or fossils, and
especially what gold, alver, tin, or other mines exist, to
whom belonging, how far productive, and how and to
what extent worked ?

Are there in the district any figured stones, buildings,
ruins, be having any impressions, or otherwise objects of
curiosity or veneration ?

Mr Ibbetson will of course see the neoesdty of apply-
ing the above queries and observations by slow degrees,
and with extreme caution and discrimination ; so that on
the one hand he may not be deceived by putting leading
questions to the natives, or on the other, lead them to
distrust the objects of the mission and views of the British
government.

(Signed) W. E. Phillips.

383 Apmmiz.

naranda relating to the Principal Heads if tnqAif
and Observation required o/Licuienani Crooke.

H£T£OaOLOOY, &c

1. Duration of the seaaons respectively, and hcnr cfii*'
tinguished by natives ?

2. Estimated quantity of nin at particular aeaaona f
S. What winds are prevalent at cadi seaaoo reapeo-

tively ; tiieir nature and influence on the country and Oft-
vigation of the coast ; and are they very variable ?

4. Runa at what period, their force, effect^ and do-
ration?

5. Dews, when and in what quantity, and their eflfafll*
when very great ?

6. Prevalency of fogs, aists or of min^, or deoc^
tious qipearance of water.

7. What earthquakes or natural phenoiiMna are «■ re-
cord, and of what frequency ?

& What record of other extraordinary plMMmena, of
any particular famine, hurricane, pestilence^ draiiglit, liot
wind, &c. and csccess or deficiency of rain, windsi aoi^
turc, heat, &c. P

9. Duly temperature and appearance of the atoi^
sphere to be observed and noted.

GEOGRAPHY, TOPOGRAPHY, ILc-

1. General form of each country, and how iar
and advantageous, or ntlierwisc '"

APPENDIX. 38S

S. Boundaries, how far clearly defined, and whether
natural or artificial ?
8. Estimated length and width in extremes ?

4. Face of each country generally, whether plain,
hilly, jungle, cultivated, waste, or diversified by river^
marshes, &c. ?

5. Name and situation of each town, port, and village^
as far as can be attidnable ; thor relative position and
distance ?

6. Estimated number of houses in each town or port of
any note ?

?• Estimated number of reddents in each town or
port of any consequence, and the proportion between fo-
reigners and natives ?

8. Account of bridges, &c if any, where, and of what
constructed, and present condition ?

9. Account of roads and passes to the interior, thdr
situation, state, and estimated extent ?

10. Census of houses and people, when and to what
extent ever efiected through the chief or otherwise, and
with what results ?

11. General height, complexion, and form c^ the na-
tives of each state, dieir habits and strength of body, and
characteristic features of the principal classes ?

12. What is the healthiest part of each state, or what
spot is absolutely unhealthy ; and kind of scmI, or local
causes of such drcumstances ?

19. What are generally the natural vegetable produce
tions of the waste lands, sand, hills, &c.

14. What forests or woods exist in each state, and
their ntuation, extent, and state ?

15. Situation and account of any mineral and other

imA APPRNDIX.

springs and fdr what remarkable or useful, mcdkinaUj
or otherwise ?

IG. At what depth may water be found in diflcrent
parts of each state, and of what quality ?

17. What mountains exist in each state, their com*
puted height, utuation, and state ?

18. General course of mountains in height and di«
rcGtiun ?

MILITARY OBJECTS, &c.

1. The nature and extent of the milhaiy and natal
establishments, if any, of each state, and thdr numerical
force?

S. What is the military turn or reputation of the
natives ?

S. The military advantages, in point of ntuation and
defence, of the difTcrent harbours and maritime ports ?

4. Situation, state, and history, of any oM or modem
forufications ?

5. The customs prevailing respecting the mode of
warfare?

6. Nature of the arms, or oiFensive and defauivc won*
pons in use ; and influence of Europeans on the natiTes^
as to their military buildings, arms, &c. and practice of
war?

7. Eligible sites for the formation of British ports or
factories for securing the navigation of the large riveiB,
for cfTcvting the suppression of piracy on any particular
coast, or for iixiiig ii secure commercial residence at any
port or town of noli* >

APFBNDIX. 385

HYDROGEAPHY, &c.

I. Extent aiid nature of the sea coast; its bays,
creeks, &c.?

% Account of its tides^ souiidings, &c. ?
9. Of its rocks, shoals, lands, shallows, &c. ?

4. Of its headplands, points, harbours, and distance
and bearing of one part from another, as far as can be
ascertained ?

5. The magnetic variation and astronomical observa-
tions, fixing the latitude and longitude of each place
visited by the mission ?

6. Description of each river according to its relative
^ze and importance ?

7. Which have thdbr origin in the district, and whence ?

8. General course in length and direction ?

9. Extreme breadths and depths in the dry and rainy
seasons, and how far fordable at each period, and for
what vessels or boats navigable ?

10. How far liable to alter in its course at different
seasons^ and what changes has it undergone in former
periods, and from what supposed causes ?

II. Encroachments of the river, regular and gradual,
or sudden and uncertidn as to place ?

1^ Where do any streams not perennial appear, what
is their size, and for what period do they flow ?

18. Islands, rocks, and sand-banks, in what part of the
river ?

14. Rivers, by what description or local denomination
known among the natives, and in what respect not corre-
sponding with its delineation and name in English maps ?

2 B

•SHG A^rKNOIX.

lo. Length and period of their inundations ?

16. What dry beds of rivers are disooverable,
what is known of them ?

17. Names of the several streams in every part of tlieir
course ; in what instances does the loeal nomcncbtture of
rivers differ, and to what extent ?

18. State of inland navigation gcncrallj, and haw tkr
advantageous to the country, or further required.

19. Extent, situation, and nature of any lakes, viA
what rivers connected r

20. Extent of any marshes; with what productiBm
covered ; and how occupied, or of wliat use ?

Lieutenant Crooke will of course see the ncoeMity of
applying the above queries and observations by ilov di^
grees, and with extreme caution and diacriminationy ■>
that on one hand he may not be deceived by putting
leading questions to the natives ; or on the other, land
them to distrust the object of the mission, and virva of
the British government.

(Signed) W. E. Phillifs.

(True Cap;/,)
(Signed) W. S. CaAcaorr,

Acdng Secretary to

i^o. in.

To W. A. CLUBLEY, Esq.

Secretary to Government,

I DO myself th'i6 honour to send you a sketch
6f the river Jambi, together with the subjoined topognr-
{>hical account of that state, and of Assahan and Delli ;
and I beg you mtl do me the favour, in laying tihem bc^
fore the honourable the governor in council, to tender my
assurance that I have exerted myself to render them as
Complete and perfect as my ability, and the means and
Opportunities available by me, would allow.

The mission having entered the Ewalla Nior, the west-
em branch of the Jambi, on the ^th June, arrived in
the neighbourhood of the town of Jambi on the Sd July ;•
and beginning to descend the river on the 13th, it finally
quitted it on the I8th July. During its stay it did not
reade at the town, the low state of the river preventing
the vessel from ascending much beyond three small
islands, distant about two miles below it. This circum-
stance tending to restrict a free intercourse with the chiefs
and people, was in some degree a bar to observation and
inqu'ury, and, added to the general ignorance of all classes/
rendered the acquisition of information a tedious and
ficult matter.

388 APPKNDIX.

From Jambi (Mr Ibbctsoirs ill heallh requiring medi-
cal aid, and incapacitating it for pursuing its olijects), tbe
mission proceeded to Singapore, where it arrived on the
Sl2i\ July. Sailing thence on the 10th August, it shaped
its course towards the river of Siack ; but was prevented
from visiting that state, by a return of Mr IbbeUon^s id*
dis|x>Mtion. The places afterwards visited were the
of Assahan and Delli. It ascended the formeron the
August, and (|uitted it on the S3d ; and after wa
at Pulo Verallah, it arrived at the latter on the S9di, sod
leaving it on the 31st August, returned to this prcsidcacj
on the 4th September. The time employed on these
latter visits, did not admit of taking drafts of the riv4

I am sorry to add that the chronometer^ though
rently an excellent one (by Ilatton, the maker to the
nourablc Company), and though attended to with
anxiety and care, was found to change its daily rata
8 to S3 seconds ( a difference amounting to a
error of G^ miles), and was consequently not to be d^
pended upon.

I have, &c. &c. &c.

(Signed) S. C. Crooxi, Li£mL

Anistaiit k. Surrrjor to a

rRiNCi: or Wait* Imisii. |i
IO//1 S,'pt,»Hhr IJr*Ji». I

APPENDIX. 389

JAMBI.

A^cffidbrt^.*— The kingdom of Jambi is bounded on
the north-east by the straits lying to the westward of the
Lingin archipelago, on the north-west by thick forests
which separate it from Indragiri, to the westward by the
celebrated kingdom of Menangkabau, and by the Ke-
rinchi country, over which it claims sovereignty, and to
the south-eastward by a wild and wooded track, partially
inhabited by the Eubus, an idolatrous tribe, subject to
the sultan of Palembang.

Face.-^The country is flat and even, being nowhere
diverrified by mountains or hills. Towards the sea coast
it is low, swampy, and subject to inundation ; but as it
recedes from the shore, it becomes proportionably elevated
and dry, and is in the interior intersected by numerous
small streams, and by several rivers navigable for small
prows, which all flow into the Jambi. Along the banks,
and in the neighbourhood of these streams and rivers
only, is there any open ground or cultivation, a thick fo-
rest extending in every other quarter.

i$oi/.— -The land rising in an inclined plane from the
sea towards the great central chain of mountains which
divide the island lengthways, is probably of alluvial forma-
tion. At Jambi, its siuface is about SO feet above the
level of the river in the dry season. It is composed of a
rich vegetable mould, covering a bed of clay, mixed with
fine sand, under which, at the depth of 11 or 12 feet,
there is a stratum of peat, four feet in thickness, contain-
ing trunks of trees of various dimensions, the bark unde-
cayed, and the fibres of the wood retaining much of their
natural colour, strength, and elasticity.

390 APPBNmx.

Ttie substratum is a fine light coloured clay, ilightlf
mixed with decayed vegetable matter in specks, where tbt
stratum of peat disappears. The bank presents r
of successive layers of sand and clay. Neither
gravel were found in the soil, though pebbles of quaits
and fragments of iron-stone are washed down by the ri
from the interiori and deposited on the sand-banks.
Ipw Jambi, the banks continue to exhibit the
till their height is considerably reduced, when the
turn of peat entirely disappears.

Rivers.-^Thc river Jambi is said to have its
the mountiuns of Menangkabau ; but no ioformatioa was
obt^nable at Jambi with respect to its magnitude^ or tht
length and direction of its course, before it
Tanjong, a frontier town of Jambi. It is
being there fordable in the dry season, though
to a considerable distance higher up within the tcrritiaj
of Menangkabau. The vague and indefinite w«f^ in
which the nutives estimate distances by time, and ihe jt^
ruder method employed by them of indicatii^ die Mat^
tions of places by a simple reference to the noenl or d^
scent of the river, render it impossible to fix the
position and distance of Tanjong, with respect to
The journey is, however, stated to require from 15 to 9t
days (according to the nature of the boat) lo asocnd the
stream, or 10 days to descend. It is further stated Id fat
15 days travelling by land from a place called A§■^
which latter is within a few miles of a volcano, and S dsfi
distant from Padang. Acconling to the lowest but
probable account, it contains 30 houses. Fran X
jong, the river in its course downwards rei
sively the waters of the Sumei from its left, and the

APPSNDIX. 391

gei Tubob, Tubir, and Tumbesi) from its right. Oi'
these, the Tmnbcsi is first in size, and the Tuboh the
next, the former having three considerable tributary
streams, namely, the Batang Assei from its right, and
Bear its head, and successively, the Merangin and Ayer
etam from its left. These rivers are all said to be navi-
gable for boats, and the country through which they flow
is asserted to be populous and well cultivated. On the
Tubir there is a mart and town called Pakalan Jambu ;
and 10 or 15 days up the Tumbeid stands Leinun, a town
famous for its gold trade. The conflux of the Tumbesi
is 10 days distant for trading prows against the stream,
from Jambi ; but an express boat performed the journey
in four days, and returned in two.

At the town of Jambi, the river is in its low state three
fathoms in depth, and about 450 yards in breadth ; but
when swelled by the rains, it rises about 15 feet, and
spreading over a sandy flat below its right bank, increases
its breadth to about 900 yards. Immediately below the
town it becomes broader, and decreases in depth to ^ht
feet ; but the channel is afterwards in its whole extent
from 2 to 15 fathoms deep in the dry season, and is per-
fectly safe and free from dangers till its conflux with the
sea. The only sand-banks that es^st are, excepting at
the periodical rise of the river, above water, and are in«
yariably found adjoining tp the bank, on the contrary side
tp that against which the current strikes. They are con-
fined to the upper part of the river, and are evidently
formed by deposition in the rains, from such parts of the
Strieam as are cliecked by and stagnated immediately be-
low the points. In the lower part of the river, the run of
the tidjB counteracts this disposition, and prevents theiirre^

382 ArpBNDiz.

gular formatioiu Two miles below Jombi are ntualad
the onljr islands between it and the sea ; thcj are three in
number, the largest being about BOO yanls ai IcogChy
and are oonaected with each other, and with the soathcni
bank, by a sand-bank, peiiodically dry. Their he^^ ia
not equal with that of the banks, from which thej an
distant SOO and 400 yards. The river, after flowing
past them, throws off on an arm about 50 yards im
breadth, which having taken a drcuiUMis track to the
southward, in the course of whidi it is navigable for rmj
small boats, again unites, under the name of the Moam
Kompace, with its parent source, after the latter haa warn
about 42 miles. Nine miles bekw this jandkim waA
about 61 from Jambi, the Kwalla Saddoo and Kwaila
Nior diverge from each other. The general coarse of the
river so fiur is N. £. and by £• ; its banks gradually dft*
minish in height from tO to 5 feet ; its depth varies ham
8 to 15 fathoms (excepting at the shalbw part already
noticed) ; and its breadth from S50 (o 700 yards ;
it passes by twelve villages or kampongs.

Kwalla Saddoo.— The Kwalla Saddoo, or eastt
branch, is three times the breadth of the Nior at their
paration, and apparently continues its course ia the
ral line of direction of the main river. It enters the saa
in lat V m' south, 5 or 6 miles to the westward ef Tai^
jong Bon (correctly Jibon), having thrown «iff a kige
branch called the Kwalla Murba, which empties il
or six miles further to the westward. They are both
to l)e deeper than the Nior, and are no doubt
tlivir ciMiRic ; but their entrances, on a hasty
appeorixi exceedingly shalbw.

Kicnlln JNTtor.— The ;*cneral direction of the

APPENDIX. 30S

Nior, the weBtern branch, is at first from W. N. W. to W.,
its breadth from ISO to 450 yards, and its depth from S
to 7 fathoms. After a very winding course of about 1!0
miles, it receiyes from the northward the Dinding, a river
about 80 yards wide, and 5 or 6 fathoms deep, at a dis-
tance of a quarter of a mile above its confluence. The
united streams alter their direction to N. N. W. with few*
er windings ; increase in breadth ; and maintaining a depth
of from Sti to 6 fathoms, flow into the sea at a distance of
IS miles from their junction. The banks of the Kwalla
Nior throughout, are uninhabitable from their knmess,
and present one unifcnm character of wooded and impe*
netrable loneliness.

Its course in disemboguing itself is nprth, and its en-
trance points are nearly a mile from each other. The
diaanel is, however, interrupted and divided by a tongue
of sand which stretches out from the middle, and is dry
at low water immediately outside the points. The east-
ern branch, after leading close along the bank, passes
between this middle sand and a broad bank, which lines
the coast, with the eastern river point bearing S. S. W. ;
it shoals at the same time to 10 feet at low water spring
tides, and then sweeping round to north-west, deepens
gradnally, and unites with the western branch, after whidi
the channel has progres^veiy ftom S^ to 5 fathoms, is
about three quarters of a mile broad, and clears die sands
which confine it on each side, with the eastern entrance
point bearing south. The sands are very extensive, the
outer end of the western one bdng dry at low water
spring tides, at a distance of 5 miles from the river^s
month, bearing south. The shore afibrds noland^niarks,
being low, and evenly covered with trees.

3M APPKNDIX.

The land head in in 0" 55\ and the river's mouth ui
l"* 0" south latitude. The chronometer, not to be lefiad
on, made them in 109* 4^ cast, or 34 miles wett fkam
Tanjoiig Bon ; but they are probably more to the
ward.

CfirrenU and Tides. — The velocity of the
the dry state of the river, is at Jambi from 1^ to 8
per hour. At full and change it is high water at tho
river^s mouth at 6 o'clock, and the tide rises 10 feet It
does not flow higher up the river than the TJIiiy af
Ookam ; but has the effect of retarding the straaa gl
Jambi, and of occasioning it to swell from two (o thnn
feet.

The periodical swelling of the river in the runs^ b or*
dinarily from IS to 15 feet ; and as far up as Muan Ja^
bi, where the bank is 15 feet in height, it is described aa.
inundating the country, occasionally for a fixtnight al a
time.

Taicns and Villages. — The town of Jambi is about
three quarters of a mile in extent on both banks cl* tho
river, to which it is nearly oonlincd, the natites ooeupj*
ing the whole of the right bank ; nnd the few Arabs and
other strangers wlio arc settled there, a part of the left;
Many of the houses, especially those of the Arab
pong, are sided and partitioned in a neat
planksy and roofed with tiles (shaped with a
crossways), of excellent manufacture. A few
with a thatch of goniutce, which forms a durable roof;
some have their sides constructed of large thick pieces of
bark ; but the greater part are huts of mat aod
built u|x>n posts in the usual Makyan style,
thciic descriptions of buildings, there is also a ni

q[ houses upon rafts of huge trunks of trees, dumsily
put tc^ther, which, during the periodical swelling of the
river, are afloat and moveable ; but in the dry seasoB ate
geoe^rally, especially the larger ones, lodged on a sandy
flat, which becomes dry, and confines the stream on the
right There is also a number of little rafts supporting
a small hut, attached to the better class of houses, and
ysed for the convenience of bathing, of which the women
in particular seem to be very fond. In fact, there is an
appearance of cleanliness in the persons and houses of th«
inhabitants, rather unusual in Malayan towns. Th^
have a mosque, but it is in a neglected and ruinous con-
dition. A burying ground about three quarters of a mile
below the town, appears to claim more attention ; many
of the tombs are carved and gilded, and inclosed by a
.tiled building.

At the entrance of the mosque was deposited a defaced
Hindoo image, which led to inquiries that terminated in
the discovery of several others. The figure carved in re»
liff, on a stone about five feet in length, was that of a
human being in a sitting posture, with a high ornamented
head-dress, and a circular hood-like tablet behind the
head. The arm was broken ofi*, and the whole figure
;wom intp a confused and indistinct mass; but a well
executed border of foilage round the edge of the stone^
being less in relief, remiuned more perfect and well defin-
led. The other images were,^r«^, the statue of a man, the
ieyrms broken off, about five feet high, in an erect posture.
The head was rather large, and the hips being iiill, sweir
)ing, and smoothly rounded, had a somewhat feminine ap-
pearance, but in other respects the proportions were re*
f^ajr^L^bly good. About the waist and ancles there v^^s ax^

JlNi .\PPBNDIX.

uneveoncss, the nnnains probably of* a ginile and buiglci.
The features were defaced, but appeared to liaTe been
brood and flat, and tlie hair was curly, in little round
knobs^ and formed into a top knot. SJ, Four figum
representing an elephant^s head with tusks, the trunk
curled upwards and backwards, and adorned longitudi*
nally with a string of flowen, and the jaws widely distend-
ed, and inclosing a curly-headed male figure, having
bangles on his legs, in an erect atutude within them.
These seemed to occupy their orip^nal situation in the
skirts of the town ; but no ruins were seen near them.
The otliers were found in different phwes, whither thcj
hod been carried. 8e/, A bull about half the natural sias^
kneeling, tlie body and neck adorned with wreaths of
bcll-sha|Xid flowers, with a bell suspended at the cbeiL
The head and the greater part of the neck of this figure
were broken off; but the remaining part was remarkably
well proportioned and executed. The natives have no
idea of tlie origin of those images, but call them chesa>
men (buoli chatuor), of the giants or genii ; nor could they
point out the ruins of the temple to which they must have
bekmged, though the former existence of one ofcoiMder*
able diuieusioiis is indicated by a number of stone slabs
and carved ornaments, converted to various purposes in
diHerent parts of tlie town. The material, a dark eoknir-
ed fine grained granite, is not found within a considcffohle
distance oi* Jambi, probably not nearer than the oratml
cliain of mountains. The population of Jambi b at the
utmost 4000, of whidi a very great proportion are
women and children. It is almoM^entirely Malayan; bal
there arc a few Javans and persons of Arab
There were formerly Kmie Thinese settlers, but

present The situation of th^ tawn id qpreeabk, diy,
and healthy. By a mean of double altitndeK, it 10 in k-
^tude V 33^' south, and its longitude^ not noourately as-
certained, is 15 miles west from tb^ rivf^rls mouth, finons
which (with reference always to the K'WAlla Nior), it is
distant by the line of the river 8S mil^.,

ViUages below Jambi.'^The villages, 00 the river be-
low Jambi are enumerated in the following list :"--r

1. Koonangan, contmning 10 ov IS bouset, qk &e
right bank of the river, distance of 6 miles*

% Talandooka, distant 8^ miles, a straggling village
of 18 or SO houses, situated on a steep bank on the right,
in the midst of pretty but inognificant plantaticms of
sugar-cane, maize, &c.

3. Muara Jambi, distant about 13 miles, oontainiqg
S5 houses, and having a population of about SOO. It is
on the left bank, and is said to have been anciently a
capital town, and to have in its vicinity ruins of brick or
stone buildings, containing images and other sculpture ;
but time was wanting to search fat and examine these
remains of antiquity ; and nothing waA discovered but a
mutilated diminutive figure of an elephant, and a full
sized head in stone, having curly biur, in the style of a
judge^s wig, and a perfectly CafiVe c$qI of features^ This
latter is sent ixdth this report

4. Eampong Mooda, on the right bank, cpntiuniiig 8
houses, and distant IBi miles.

5. Sungei Bulu, 5 houses, on the right bank, distant
I64 miles.

6. Kampong Biombang, on the left bank> is at the
tance of 17 miles, and contains 6 or 7 bouses.

398 APPRNDI^C.

7. Kampong Tambang contains 8 houses on the kft
bank, distant 18 miles.

8. Ookam, distant S3| miles, 1 or 2 houses on mA
ude. The tide runs up to it.

9. Bali Mata, 7 houses, on the left, distant 98 mikt.

10. Lindrong, 7 houses, on the left, distant M^ nnleiL

11. Muara Kampau, IS houses, on the right, at the
junction of the arm of the river from which it takes Ae
name. It is 42 miles below Jambi. The bank on which
it stands is about 10 feet above the surface of the rivtr ife
its lowest state, but is inundated in the rains.

IS. Kampong Simpang, 7 houses, on the right,
diatcly above the separation of Kwalla Saddoo and
la Nior, and 51 miles frf)m Jambi. The Dutch had fii^
merly on this spot a factory, defended by a field work,
the traces of which are still visible near the village. Tk
situation commands the navigation of the whole river;
but the ground is scarcely G feet above the greatest fidi
of tlic river, and is at its swelling subject to inundatiaB.

The site of an English factory is unknown.

Besides the villages above-mentioned, there are a few
inhabited spots and occasional plantations betw e en JaBfti
and Kampong Simpang, but none below iL

Of the towns and villages above Jambi, iMerted to bt
numerous, no particular description or eaiuncfatioo Mi
obtainable.

ifcMu/j.— The mode of communication between viU^pi,
as well as distant parts of the country, is almost
sively by water, there being few habitations that
situated on the rivers or near them ; and such routcaa
do exist, are mere footpaths through the wooda. Thij,

APPENDIX. d99

kow^ver, extend to Padang, Benooolen, and other plaees
on the western coast of the island, with which ihey are
the means of commercial intercourse.

The route from Bencoolen was thus detailed by a personi
who had tntvelled it :-^

To Eorinchi, * * i day&

To Pakalan Jambu, - 6 days.

To Sungd Batang Assei, - 7 days.

To Village Nibong, - 10 days.

To Village Tiga dusun, -^ 18 days.

ToVilh^, - - 18day& .

To City Jambi, - <«- S4 day&

In this statement, however, are included at least fou#

halting days at unknown points ; and a number of vil-^

lages not remembered by the traveller, are omitted. Tb^

relative proportion of distance to time in this journey is

at a low rate, on account of the indolent mode of travd«

ling of the natives, as well as the nature of the oountxy^

and does not probably exceed 6 or 7 miles per day in tho

mountunous region of the interior, and 10 or 11 in the

low country.

Of the routes to Fadang and other parts of the western
coast, and .to Menangkabau, no details were procurable.

With.Palembang there are several routes of communis
cation from the upper country (utu Jambi); and it isre^
ported to be but one day's journey by land from a pml
on the Tunbesi, distant 10 days up k, to another on the
Palembang river, whence the city is distant two days^
descending the stream.

From the town of Jambi, the nearest route, as detailed
by an itinerant trader, is as follows :—
To Sungei Tijuan, ascending the river, - 1^ day^

400 APPENDIX.

To Tompenoo, a Kubu village, hj land, - 2 da^

To PuDcrokau, a Kubu village, by land, • 4 davft.

To Sungci Lolang, and dcficending it by boat, 5 dajK
To die Bunuoann, descending the Lalan, 6 dbjiw

To Benteng (the Batteries) by boat up the Bu<-
nuonin (or western branch of the Palem-
bang river), - - - 7 daji.

Benteng is at a sliort distance, agreeably to this ac-
count, below Palembang, and at the point of lepsniiioa of
Kwalla Soonsang (the soutli-castem and principal a^
trance), and Kwalla Bonuossin, which form between them
the island Gk)mbaro. The Kubu villages are goy c mcJ
by dupattis, subject to the sultan of Paiemfamg. Ii is
poutively and generally asserted by the natiTea, that tfacH
land routes arc their only means of inteioourse vith F^
lembang, and there exists no water oommunicmtion bc^
tween the Jambi and the Palembang or Indngiri n\
the latter is said to rise from a large lake in Mi
kabau.

Sea Coof^—- The sea coast of Jambi ia bv,
and covered evenly with moderately high trees ; and it
lined to the distance of from S| to 5 miles by a land flat
rather dangerous of aj^raach, on account of the wmj
sudden gradation of depth at its outer edge. The oidv
island within a distance of SO miles is Pulo Vandla (pM-
perly Bcrala), which from Tanjong Bon (properly Jibon)^
bears N. 20" £., and is distant about 11 1 mileSb
that distance, however, there are other islanda
the direction of Lingcn, the |)eak of which bore by
pass from Tanjon*; Bon N. 16*> E.

From Tanjoiic; Boii (in laL V ff 15" south, nd hy
chronometer I8j niiks east from tlie weateramoat of the

APPENDIX. 401

Catantiga islands), the general line of direction of the
coast is west as far as the Ewalla Nior ; but from thence,
for about 15 miles, it runs W. by N. f N. It is, as well
as the islands towards Lingen, inaccurately laid down in
many charts.

The tides set along the coast, the flood tide running
from the westward.

iSl^iwontf.— -The monsoons blow from the south-east and
north-west ; the dry season continues during the preva-
lence of the former, which sets in in May ; and the rmny
season commences with the latter in December. The
rains, however, set in gradually, and are not considered
to fall heavily for more than three months* The crops
being regulated by them, rice, which is cultivated by
irrigation in the upper country, is there sown in October,
transplanted at their commencement, and reaped at their
termination. In the lower part of the country, near the
town of Jambi, this mode of cultivation does not prevail ;
and rice is sown on dry grounds (ladangs) in July, and
reaped in December. These plantations are not perma-
nently cultivated, but are abandoned after a few crops,
when the soil is impoverished, and others constructed by
rudely and imperfectly clearing the land, by felling and
burning the trees with which it is generally covered. In
these plantations they also cultivate, in small quantities,
barely sufficient for their own consumption, tobacco^
sugar-cane, maize, and cofiee. Their fruit-trees are du-
nans and jacks in great abundance, biit few of any other
kind.

C/imo^.— The climate at the town of Jambi is con-
sidered healthy and agreeable by the inhabitants. During
the residence of the minion in July, the mean of the

2 C

4U2 APPENDIX.

themioiiieter, hung in a dose and hot cabin, was at Mm-
rifle from 76^ to TTf at the hottest time of the day, ge-
nerally from two to three o^cIock, 86^, and at eight p. m.
79^ of Fahrenheit At sea, previously and subsequently^
the temperature was generally several degrees higher in
the mornings and evenings ; (see register annexed). The
weather during the period alluded to was generally doudy»
particularly at night.

Towards the mouth of the river, where the country b
low and swampy, the atmosphere is by no means heahhy,
and agues are prevalent.

Epidemics. — It does not appear that the cholera has
extended to Jamtn, although an eiMdeadc (called sijuk,
a cold), resembling it in respect to the symptom of wga^
modic cramp of the limbs, but unattended with Tonucii^
was prevalent last year. Few, however, died*

Earthquakes. — The violent earthquakes wUch alarm
the inhabitants of the western coast are slightly felt, but
arc unattended with any baneful effects. A violent one
is, however, said to have been experienced aboat SO yean
ago or more, and to have been preceded by a period of
great heat and drought, which ruined the cnpii and
casioned a distressing scarcity of food.

The great crupUon of Sumbawa is ssid to havt
heard, and the ashes which it threw forth an
(by persons who have never quitted the country, and
therefore must have witnessed the phenomenon to be able
to describe it), to have fallen at Jambi in such quanlitiaB
as weighed down the leaves of the plantun trees.

Government and Character j-^They have no ngular
forms of law, police, or government, in any of its
cations ; but the sultan is nominally supreme

APPBNDIX. 408

trarj. Igikmuit and weak* however, in reality, his autho*
ri^ ia iligfated or usurped by erery ambitious chieftaaa;
and the kingdom is throughout in a state of oonfusioo and
mitrule.

The Korinchi country is sud to have been tributary
mider a viceroy, but it is doubtful whether it isat present
at all dependent The upper part of the kingdom is
governed by the king^s eldest son, whose title b Pangeran
Batoo. The Tumbesi river b held by hb majesty him«
self, and Jambi and the fewer part of the river are in the
hands of the second aon Pangeran Suryo^ who has ooU
leagued with him hb brother-in-Uw, Pangeran Petra,
and a foreign adventurer, well known at Prince of Wales
Island by the name of Toonkoo Long. Pangeran Suryo
has neither intelligence nor activity, and b entirely under
the oontroul of Pangeran Petra, who appears to have ooBk
siderable influence over the popubtioo, and to be a de-
dded character. Toonkoo Long, the rival and enemy
of Pangeran Petra, has neither property nor dependents
beyond the war-boats and adventurers from various coun-
tiias that accompanied him to Jambi, but has neverthe-
less contrived to get himself adopted by the sultan.

The lower orders are generally bdow the middle siic
in stature ; but in fhape they are muscular and well pro-
portioned, and thor complexions are ov£narily fidrer
than those of the Malays commonly seen at Prince of
Wales Isknd. They are ignorant, poor, and indolent,
but they have neither incitement nor means (o be other*
wise. They have a high idea of the wealth and libenK*
ty of Europeans, which leads them to beg with great as-
surance for every thing that hiu their tmcj. They do
not appear to possess that charadsr of vindictive trMch-

404 ArPKNDix.

ery so commonly ascribed to the Malays. Although tk
country has for two or three years been in a sCMte of cifil
war, yet few lives arc said to have fallen a Bacri6oe totUi
calamity, though the population has been reduced by the
numbers who have fled to other countries. The
ters of the contending parties are represented as indi
and unfrequent skirmishes, terminating in the Icmb of
or two men only on each side ; and in this whole period
of intestine commotion, there arc but two oocaaions m^
tioned on which the hostile parties met to decide their ps^
tensions by arms. On the first, the sultan in person, at db
head of SOU or 400 men, was opposed by his nephev, |y
name Pangeran Natoo, instigated by Syed Abdallah, as
Arab still residing in Jambi, who rebelled, and was able Is
out^number and defeat the royal party, of which 4 or Soai^
were slain. The king in this defeat was wounded, and
to the Tumbesi, where he has since continued to
On the second occasion on which Pangeran Ratoo attacked
Pangeran Natoo, the loss on both sides was aaarly cqual^
amounting altogether to 6 or 7 men killed, aoM
was the fourth son of the king, Pangeran Tabs. The
phew was shortly afterwards shot. On both
each party was posted behind a parapet, whence thej End
at each other.

Jrms. — Their arms are the kris, spear, and i
fire-arms of a heavy and clumsy nuke, resembling a
derbuss of extraordinary length. These are sidd Is be
manufactured in Sumatra; but the best arc
from the island of Balli. Swords are not
and their shape being wide and thick in the
and also aukwardly constructed in the handle,
render them little better adapted for combat than Ibr

APPENDIX. 405

common parang or cleaver. Their shields are small,
round, and light, and covered with tough buffalo hide.
Their only ordnance (and they have very few) are the
rantaka of iron, and its counterpart the lelah of brass,
the only difference being in the metal. The latter are
principally manufactured at Lingen, and probably from
some fault in the composition of the metals, or imperfec-
tions in the bore, are liable, it is said, to burst when
heated by frequent discharges. They seldom exceed an
inch or an inch and a half in calibre, while their length
and weight are both in the extreme ; and being charged
with loose powder, and fired by means of a squib of moist-
ened powder, their loading, by reversing and dismounting
them, cannot fail to prove very dilatory ; and the direc-
tion of the shot must necessarily, when thrown from a
vessel in motion, be very uncertain. They are, however,
preferred by the Malays, to every other description of
gun.

Forts, — The town of Jambi is undefended by any in-
closure ; and there is no fortified place near it.

Orang Laut, — Besides the population of Jambi, and
the village below it, which may be reckoned altogether at
6000, there is also in the lower part of the river, a dis-
tinct class, who call themselves, and are known by the
term, Orang Laut Their boats, however small, being
their only habitations, they live entirely upon the water,
feeding principally on fish. Their complexions are dark,
and they are a squalid, half-naked, miserable looking
race, generally afflicted with some cutaneous eruption.

(Signed) S. C. Groove, Lieui,

Assbtant & Surveyor to the Mission.

406

APPENDIX.

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i! i

No. IV,

Memorandum for the Guidance of Mr Anderson,

Thx eastern coast of Sinnatn^ from Diamond Point tat
Slack river, was, until lately, veiy little known. The
country is divided into the several petty states c£ Lang?
kat, Bulu China, Delly, Sherdang, Battoo Barra, Assa^
han, and some others, all of which are more or less unde^r
the controul of the greater kingdoms of Siack and Me?
nangk^bau ; but the coast, as described by navigatcurSy
being low and woody, the trees only appearing above war
tcr, with rivers and shoal banks stretching out a consider-
able way from the shore in some places, and the native^
having the character of being most perfidious, and of liv-
ing solely on plunder, the country had been frequented
only by coasting prows or other small vessels, and very
seldom by Europeans, some of whose boats had been ao»
tually cut oiF in that direction.

There had existed, however, always some commerda)
intercourse betweep that country and this island; and
ii^ the year 18S0, this government conceiving that such
interopurse required only encouragement to be impiv>ve4
and extended, deputed an agent (Mr Ibbetson) to viat all
the ports on that coast, and endeavour to open and estiK
blish a more fiiendly and beneficial communicntion ^tl|
tjieir chiefs.

410 APPSNDIX.

Notwithstanding that agenda ilbieaa prerented hat
from proceeding to any other ports on that coast than
Assahan and Delly, and the principal objects of his mis*
sion remained unfulfiUed, still e^en his short and partial
Tudts, joined to tlie sur>'ey of the whole coast which the
Honourable Company^s cruizcr Nautilus effected earij
last year, under the orders of this government, certualj
tended to promote a more regular and intimate corr^
spondence between some of the chiefs of that oountiy,
and the governor of this island ; and these
insensibly leading to more frequent intcroourae bet^
the natives of their states and Pinang, have brought
most important increase of trade, as is evidenced hj oar
custom-house returns. It b a well known fact, that
whilst their imports of pepper alone, which is of the
description brought to this market, have more than
rupled during the last two years, they have during the
same period evinced an increasing predilection for, and
exported unusually large quantities of, our wooUen^
other manufactures.

The governor has for some weeks past bad it in
to adopt some measures for improving and ooosolidaliaig
these advantageous and notorious results; but
just heard from unquestionable authority, that they
actually excited the jealousy and activity of the
bouring Dutch government, which is about, it is stated,
to depute agents to the diflerent states on the coast of
Sumatra, in view to offer allurements to the traden of
that country, to divert their valuable and daily ii
commerce from this island to the settlement of
he has now resolved at once on deputing, without hMS of
time, but without any public demonstratioDi and at as

«11

litde expence as possible, an agent on die part of this go-
vernment, to visit all the country between Diamond Pcnnt
and Siack inclusive, for the purpose of antidpating the
Netherlands, and keeping the chie6 of that coast faith-
ful to their relrtions with this island ; and adverting to
Mr Anderaon^s commercial and general information, as
well as other attainments, the governor is not aware of
any gentleman whom he can select better qualified to ac-
complish this important service.

Mr Anderson is then requested to submit a bill im-
mediately for an advance of 4000 dollars, which he will
account for upon honour on his return ; and he is au-
thorised to purchase for this service the brig Jessy, for
SlOO dollars, whilst the proper departments will be di-
rected to embark on board of jier, as soon as she is pre-
pared for sea, a military guard of 1 havildar, 1 naick,
and 14 sepoys (all Mussulmans), with a suitable propor-
tion of camp-equipage, ammunition, and other necessa-
ries, as well as provisions calculated for the consumption
of the whole party for a period of three months. Besides
purchasing suitable presents to the amount of 400 dol-
lars (principally such articles as may serve to excite a
taste for our manufactures), in order to give to the difier-
ent chiefs he may visit, Mr Anderson is requested to re-
gulate the whole expences of the present mission, accordr
ing to the following scale.

In regard to instructions, much must be left to Mr
Anderson^s own discretion $ but the governor desires that
he will keep in view and consider the following, as the
principal objects of his mission, which, it may be observed,
is purely of a commercial nature.

To assure the chiefs of all the states between Diamond

419 APFBNDIX.

PoiDt and Slack indunTe^ of the anxknit and
position of this government, to cultivate the moet
relations mth them. To point out to them fairl j tbe dU^
ferent course of acdon which has always been pumaed S»
wards them by tbe British and Netherhmds aiillioriciaiL
To promise them and their commerce on all ooeaHon^
every consistent protection, encouragement, and fmaSfj^
at this port. To instruct them as to the pr
and demands of the markets here. To hokl out to
every inducement to increase their industry and
their agriculture, as well as their exports, to thia i
To obtain, if possible, the same privil^es and eaaj
in their states to our manufactures and olgecta of
as we have always given to them ; and with this
would be highly beneficial if they could be piwvukd aa
to forego their strong prejudices in favour of tbe
doUar, and receive our sicca rupees and smaller
Lastly, to employ every argument and persuawm to
vent them from entering into any monopoliea or
sive contracts, or into any political engagements with ife
Dutch.

Whilst executing the above-mentioned olgccts, Mr A»
derson will of course endeavour to collect, for the i
roation of this government, in return, an authentic but
voluminous account of the state of each country which he
may viut, of its agriculture, manufactures and oommcras^
and particularly a description of the habits and tancs of
its inhabitants, in furtherance of which objects the secro*
tary to government will furnish him with a copy of dM
instructions pvcn to Mr Ibbetson, and of the chaita of
the cast coast of Sumatra, executed by the oflioen of dM
>)autilus.

APFBNDIZ. 413

Mr Anderaon, oa his return fhxn the coast of Sumatra,,
may visit the ports of Salangore, Bumam, and Ferah
also ; but he is positively enjoined not to interfere in any
political discussions existing between the native chiefs, or
undertake any measures calculated to produce ooULnon
between this government and the Netherlands.

Mr Anderson may depart as soon as his arrangements
can be completed ; and during his absence, Mr Gaunter
will officiate as commissioner of the Court of Requests, and
draw the salary of that appointment, as regulated by the
honourable the Court of Directors.

The officiating superintending surgeon will be directed
to attach to the mission an intelligent native doctor, or
other medical attendant, with a proper supply of medi-
cines and surgical instruments.

(Signed) W. £• Phillips.

1st Janmiry 1823ii

No. V,

Names and Prices of Cloths purchased an the East Cmisi qf
Sumatra, the Manufactures of the Countty.

Sp.Dr»

JPke,

Serawal, coarse

Kainpanjang

. 18

■

Serawal benang mus •

Ditto betabo

SaputaDgan seree

f»

Sarong kecbil^ kapalu benang mus

Gubbar . • • .

Sarong betabong benang mus

Sarong, light colour •

Tepitikar

Serawal panjang

Saputangan kapalu benang mus •

. 11

Ditto ki^u

Kain sebidang

Puncha seree

Saputangan huguh kapala

•

Puncha sabidang

Bajoohalya

Serawal, coarse

410 APPBMDIX.

J>. Dr.

A*.

flulindimg or tolop buantd

Kain batu jabbit

Salirout benang mus

Saputangan kapalu buku

Salindaog buguh benang mus

Sarong huguh

Saputangan seree ft

Saputangan kapala

Sarong senarin tritan

Bajoo tok>p berantei

Serawal bechooal

Champul bechooal

Serawal benang

Ditto champur benang dangan ntru

Sarong ditto

Sarong ntru mua

•

Salindang

Kain kambuja

Kain kechil champur benang

Serawal benang

Chinchari chilari

Sampal tepi

Gudupong

Chilari

Salindang

Kain lipas

Ditto ....

Ditto

Ditto piilaiigei

Salindang

APPENDIX.

417

Batta Cloths.

Mergum Sisi

Guru Gundong

Suree Suree

Rinjap

Ragi bedouan

Sabila garam

Seboltar

Ragi Sehorpa

Ragi Sehoram

Touompiac

Ragi Atuanga

Jobbit

Ragi Perbouiac

Sp.Dr.

Pke.

2 D

r'.U^

* s

m*'

^ 1

;^^

fss i i

1 - — — ,

i!i''"= fill :\
il, Ji Jill lii

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8«

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SIIipyi|s==

Js -i^ls 4 1

Ammmt ^ E*porU amd Import! 4*nng Ike bul «cMi* jMtfv, «»•
etum ^ Trttumn, amd compriiimg Mek Goods mkm m* hme
pmd dmtia at tke Cmilom-koKW oi Primeo ^ WmUa I Amd.

int-Slk— InpMtit

l, AHI.r;B .-. .Ml __ aa J«a M
"isTaiifl-wtt IN' — lii Mi «}

Vtlut tf Artlrkt upau w^^ek DnOn k«r
J«ra nmMtt AmrtAtbO, Jalg ISSOi
Kwn Articlci,

KmG

mutArticlM,

SiwAitklM,
Fim Goodly

•n,'in W — SMMM

IJB4.M7 API — 41^ IH

T!^7.H-;. J.:._ jlJM ill

aM7«M

417JMoa
7«MB1 li

'7SMM 17 -o- HIM «7
U I7JI7 *■ — «•.*•« W

*X.<;i to — >Mw <i

7B.1U M — 1^^

(SigMd} A. IX UAINOY,

Acii^ CcUkIw if CmImm h4 iHi

Tied into and exported from Prince of Walea Isludl, during iImjh
1820^1, 1821-23, and 1822-23.

IMNilltEli BV PU6WA

Btnuo, and PonHotKe Sail-
wtrd, CJcdiuiM tflAt Bail

Adurm amd WtU Cft ef

fMtOnt^JnM.

PkmU. Can.

I'ttuU, Volt.

AMb. O*

1779

C,M1I IS

WM «

4,938 U7

i,4M m

3S4

MM IS

1,74*

sie

1,7» 46

67» 27

1,619 00

MU «

S,9UJ ■■

MM m

!,»63

1MI7 M

io.a«7 89

«.IM •

1386 70

3,3(U SS

aM77 «

nwM

n COUBT.lf .u.n.

»v ra.Ti.'«v»> uin.

TO BBNCAU

Q«.rftt,.

Vai..

(^■.-/Ul..

ValMt.

QmMV.

r«faiL

•—

none
166
none
6,210
4,440

iW87

10.300
3,0S0
4W

I,6CI>

74,580
4fl,840

26,as7

134,680
30,300
4,200

3836
564
2756
4138
8018
Sl«l
3040
4aA0

211,3(10
6.90(
33,0JS
40,4M

«e,i»8

110,393
•-'0,400

4T,»sa

3,190

M»

10,«»

I0.MO

10,S6ft

*M»7

tSi

SUM
MM

rnjm

iw.4«a

Ml'

et*, uid hence the difference apparent in thit ttatemcat ia tli* flHiA
ezportB, in order to discorer the actual amount of the prvdaea <rdHU
cannot be ascertained so •atitbcttmlj aa in the caae of impoctatiM^ fi
peculif the average annual produce of the iaUnd would ffttt 4i^V
or four thousand peculi.

?ATEMENT exhibiung tbe Qiiantitj and Value of Pepper i

YEAB&

IMPORTED W WJAMt kliUilLb

vESBE

ward^ exekmhn ^ilk Emtt

A^tm mmi Weti Cotui

Coast ^ Stmmtrm,

*r «>v

Peemti. Cti»*

/VCMfc

CflCi.

1814-16

9100 19

7996

181(U16

4M4 10

7648

1816-17

none

6700

1817-18

8899

1818-19

none

766

1819-20

90 19

0669

18S0-S1

none

8196

1881-99

947

4086

1899.93

1096 19

9766

TO
GREAT BRITAIN.

TO
FOREIGN KUROPB.

TO
AMERICA.

n tVDUMK

QmmiU,.

Vaimt.

QmrnrntUp,

Valmt.

QmrnUk^,

Vmlme.

QiHflnl|f.

r„iT

•fu Dr».

•p. Dr«.

Pwvto.

•p. on.

rw«ik

•r-

4600

91,500

9178

39,946

none

nooe

4788

47,800

7364

73,640

1640

16,400

94,690

noor

none

16480

179,146

7.997

IKNM

9100

95,900

6991

71,179

19,794

t9m

9196

94.040

6979

09,069

906

9,900

4.466

6990

57,490

9501

97,511

1600

16,600

none

4080

in^ffo

■■ ■

10^600
8086

105,000

none

9960

fg^ft00

IP—

84,908

none

4691

48,690

fi*

exports of pepper fluctuate of o
demand for tiie article. The
i dntjj aad not weiffbed bj
stween exporta and importi d
lect, I ilKmld conceive the t

CMMUfMMC, 99^ Jmig h

i»

424

APPBKDIX.

Ah Ahitract Statement of Pepper imported in Promt imio Primee
of f Vales I stand, from the Ports on the East Coasi of SunuUrm,
from Isi January 1819, to 3lst December 1822.

FROM WBKNCB.

1819.

1820.

1821.

1822.

OaAKD

TOTAL IN

4 YBASS.

Delli,

Bulu China,
Lan^cat,
Batubara,
Sirdang,

Frruh.

Prcuh,

Peculi,

PeculM,

PecmlM.

2,342

315

217

14.315

1,757
2,462

1,174
2,954

10,672
870

4,965
578
180

30,444
9,199
6.278
1.246
2,926

57,773
12,141
13,800

3,057
6,277

3.028

22,662

17,265

50,003

83,048

Alaiter»Atifnimnft OJScr^ "I
Primer of Waiti t glands J-
6/fc Janmarp 18:23. }

(Signed)

c:. W. H. WRIGHT,
Mister-Attendant.

THF. KXn.

Printed at the
('alcdonuui Morrurv Prew».

THE BORROWER WILL BE CHARGE
AN OVERDUE FEE IP THIS BOOK iS NO
RETURNED TO THE LIBRARY ON O
BEFORE THE LAST DATE STAMPEl
BELOW NON-RECEiPT OF OVERDUi
NOTICES DOES NOT EXEMPT THj
BORROWER FROM OVERDUE FEES

l\^'

SEP 1O20Q0