See other formats

Full text of "Voyage of the United States Frigate Potomac: Under the Command of Commodore John Downes, During ..."

Google 



This is a digital copy of a book that was preserved for generations on library shelves before it was carefully scanned by Google as part of a project 

to make the world's books discoverable online. 

It has survived long enough for the copyright to expire and the book to enter the public domain. A public domain book is one that was never subject 

to copyright or whose legal copyright term has expired. Whether a book is in the public domain may vary country to country. Public domain books 

are our gateways to the past, representing a wealth of history, culture and knowledge that's often difficult to discover. 

Marks, notations and other maiginalia present in the original volume will appear in this file - a reminder of this book's long journey from the 

publisher to a library and finally to you. 

Usage guidelines 

Google is proud to partner with libraries to digitize public domain materials and make them widely accessible. Public domain books belong to the 
public and we are merely their custodians. Nevertheless, this work is expensive, so in order to keep providing tliis resource, we liave taken steps to 
prevent abuse by commercial parties, including placing technical restrictions on automated querying. 
We also ask that you: 

+ Make non-commercial use of the files We designed Google Book Search for use by individuals, and we request that you use these files for 
personal, non-commercial purposes. 

+ Refrain fivm automated querying Do not send automated queries of any sort to Google's system: If you are conducting research on machine 
translation, optical character recognition or other areas where access to a large amount of text is helpful, please contact us. We encourage the 
use of public domain materials for these purposes and may be able to help. 

+ Maintain attributionTht GoogXt "watermark" you see on each file is essential for in forming people about this project and helping them find 
additional materials through Google Book Search. Please do not remove it. 

+ Keep it legal Whatever your use, remember that you are responsible for ensuring that what you are doing is legal. Do not assume that just 
because we believe a book is in the public domain for users in the United States, that the work is also in the public domain for users in other 
countries. Whether a book is still in copyright varies from country to country, and we can't offer guidance on whether any specific use of 
any specific book is allowed. Please do not assume that a book's appearance in Google Book Search means it can be used in any manner 
anywhere in the world. Copyright infringement liabili^ can be quite severe. 

About Google Book Search 

Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers 
discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web 

at |http: //books .google .com/I 




Stanford University Library 




From the Library of 
Stewart Parker Elliott 



H 



Hopkins Transportation Library 

STANFORD UNIVERSITY 






VOYAGE 



or TRB 



UNITED STATES FRIGATE POTOMAC, ^ 

ONDBR TBI COMMAND OP 

COMMODORE JOHN DOWNES, 

DUKINO TBB 

CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF THE GLOBE, 

IN THB 

TEARS 1831« 1832, 1833, and 1834; 

INCLUDUfO A PARTICULAR ACCOUNT OP THE ENOAOBMENT AT QUALLAB-BATTOO^ 
ON THE COAST OF SUMATRA ; WITH ALL THE OfTlCIAL DOCU- 
MENTS RELATING TO THE SAME. 

BY J. N. REYNOIiDS. 



**■ ITATAL rOWKft Ifl MATIOMAL aLOET." 



ILLUSTRATED BV SBYERAL BNORATINOf. 



NEW. YORK: 

PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS. 

NO. 62 C L IP P-STBEBT, 
AHD lOLD BY THB PRIMCTPAL BOOKIBLLBRfl TREOVOROUT THE UMtTEO BTATI 



1 8 35. 



I. \ 






790601 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1835, 

By Harpir & Brothxrb, 

In the Clerk*s Office of the Soathem District of New- York. 



DEDICATION 



Ws have been a commercial people from the very germe of our 
existence ; we must ever remain so ; and it is the dictate of com- 
mon sense to protect this commerce. This.can only be done by 
an effectiT.e navy. This doctrine was well understood by our an- 
cestors, who, nearly one hundred and fifty years ago, made great 
exertions to raise a naval force for the purpose of taking Quebec ; 
and in all the subsequent wars up to the time of the siege of 
Louisburg, a half a century afterward, they continued to increase 
it, and it was to them power and fame. The spirit of their fathers 
was then on the wave, and guided them to victory. At this time 
the provincial armed vessels became quite formidable, and caused 
great destruction to the French commerce and fisheries. In the 
war of the revolution our navy crowned itself with glory, in the 
niunber and character of the battles it fought. At the time of 
our difficulties with France, in the days of her revolution, the 
American navy avenged the insults offered our flag, and gained 
new laurels. The spirited efforts of our navy in destroying the 
Barbary powers, for their piratical conduct to us, as well as to 
other nations, received the highest praise from all the Levant, 
which was, by the exertions of our naval force, fireed from plun- 
der and constant agitation. Even the Pope joined his voice to the 
plaudits which rang along the shores of the Mediterranean, for the 
service our naval heroes had rendered the commercial world. In 
the last war, in which our navy was so efficient and successful^ 



DEDICATION. 

most of the officers now holding a high rank bore an honourable 
part. In that contest they not only fought and conquered those 

** Whose flag has bzaved, a thonaand years, 
^ The battle and the breeze ;*' 

* * 

but at the same time achieved a more wondrous victory over the 
prejudices of many of their own nation ; and secured to all coming 
ages the existence of a navy in this country. The importance 
of a navy is agreed^ to by all ; and to sustain it as our pride and 
hopes, has become a common sentiment, beyond the mountains as 
well as on the seaboard. There breathes not a man in our coun- 
try " of soul so dead," whose heart is not warmed at the recital 
of our naval exploits. The slightest deviation of duty, even on 
board a revenue-cutter, would be a woimd to our national pride. 
The navy has duties to perform in peace as in war ; if not so 
arduous and dangerous, still they are not less useful. Our flag 
should be borne to every portion of the globe, to give to civihzed 
and savage man a just impression of the power we possess, and 
in what manner we can exercise it when justice demands repara- 
tion for insulted dignity. A few instances of prompt retaliation 
have a lasting effect. The strong man, '' knowing his rights, and 
knowing, dares maintain," is seldom ill treated ; the weak and 
timid are those who are trampled upon. While impressing on 
others our spirit and efficiency, we may learn their ability and 
resources. With all the enterprise of our countrymen, their navy 
and commercial marine, stUl we can say, — 

** Of this huge globe, how small a part we know ;*' 

there is room enough for centuries, with all our zeal, to know 
and to do. 



DEDICATION. 

I have had an opportunity of observing the devotedness of some 
of our naval officers abroad, in t6e great cause of national honour; 
virhere they have exerted themselves seriously to impress on the 
minds of all, that the United States, as a people, have no appetite 
for conquest — no desire for monopoly; but wishfbi^ace and re- 
ciprocal commerce with every nation under the sun, — offering no 
insults, committing no injuries, nor submitting to any offered to 
themselves. 

With these views and feelings, I take the liberty of respectfully 
dedicating this volimie, containing an account of the voyage of 
the United States ship Potomac, imder the command of Commo- 
dore John Downes, in the years eighteen hundred and thirty-one, 
two, three, and four, to the Honourable the Secretary and Offi- 
cers OF THE United States Navy, — ^believing that, whatever 
is well done by one, among a band of brothers, is done by all in 
feeling and principle ; for this is the only way of making; up the 
treasury of a nation's glory. 

THE AUTHOR. 

April, 1835. 






CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

Object of the Crowe — Selection of the Frigate— Her departure from Washington- 
Reflections on passing Moont Vernon — Descending Uie River — Hampton Roads 
— ^New-York — Additional Orders — ^Final Departure — Sandy Hook — ^Dismissing 
the Pilot— Tribote of Affection 11 

CHAPTER II. 

Se»-sicknes8— The Ghilf-stream — ^A Storm at Sea — Cape de Verds — St. Antonio— 
A Whale-ship— Trial of Speed — Crossing the Equator — ^Rio Janeiro-^Courteoas 
Reception of the Frigate 24 

CHAPTER HI. 






Harbour of Rio Janeiro and surrounding Scenery — ^Appearance df fbi entrance from 
the Offing — ^Its works of^Pefence — City of Rio, or St. Sebaftiili — Public Square, 
Fagade, and Fountain — Public Buildings, Houses, and Shops — Paucity of Ac- 
coomiodations for Strangers — Climate, Food, and Health — ^Arcos de Cluioco, or 
Grand Aqueduct — ^Discovery and Settlement of Brazil — ^Injustice to the Natives 
— Origin of the African Slave Trade — Discovery and Settlement of Rio Janeiro 
— ^Emigration of the Royal Family — ^Their Return to Portugal — Civil Revolution 
in Brazil — ^Accession of Don Pedro— War with Buenos Ayres, terminated by an 
unpopular Treaty— Abdication of Don Pedro — Insurrectionary Symptoms — Cler- 
ical Abuses — Population of Rio — Condition of the Slaves — ^Natural Productions 
— Theatrical /2te onboard the Potomac 34 

CHAPTER IV. 

Departure from Rio Janeiro— Glorious Sunset at Sea — ^A white Squall — A Mao 
Overboard — ^A narrow Escape— Cape of Good Hope— Arrival of the Potomac at 
Cape-Town — ^Table Bay, with Sailing Directions — First Discovery of the Cape 
by Diaz — Origin of the Colony — ^Description of the Town — State of the Press, 
literature, and Education — Climate, Clouds, and Vapours ... 69 

CHAPTER V. 

Cape of Good Hope — Progress of the Colony — Cape District — Districts of Stellen- 
bosch, Worcester, Swellendam, George, Uitenhage, Albany, Somerset, and Graaf 
Rainet — ^Population Table — Imports and Exports — ^Judiciary Establishment — Post- 
office — Humane and Religious Institutions — Revenue, Military, dtc. — The Caffires 
— Captain Stodt's Character of them — The Hottentots — Progress of EducatioQ 
iiDoog them 73 



Vi CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER VI. 

PuticQlan of the Seizure of the Ship Friendship by the Malajrs, uid the Massacre 
of part of her Crew — ^Retaking of the Ship, and her Return to Salem — The Po- 
tomac's hospitable Reception at the Cape of Good Hope — Interchange of Civili- 
ties — ^Proceeds on her Cruise^PIan of Operations — St Paal's Island — ^Arrival 
on the Coast of Sumatra — ^Dangerous Navigation 88 

CHAPTER VH. 

The Potomac, disguised as a Merchantman, anchors off Quallah-Battoo— A recon- 
noitring party of Americans deterred from landing by the hostile movements of 
the Malays — But little hopes of obtaining Indemnification by peaceable measures — 
Preparations for Enforcing our just demands — Humane Instructions of the Com- 
modore — Landing of the Crew, with strict orders not to commence Hostilities, 
unless attacked by the Malays — ^The latter fire on the Americans, who imifte- 
diately advance to the Attack, and storm and dismantle all the Forts but one^ 
The Victorious Party return on board — Loss in the Attack — Funeral Service for 
•the Slain — Official Documents 104 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Bombardment of Tuca de Lama — The Malays aak a Truce— Alarm of the inhab- 
itants of SooHKX) — ^The friendly Rajah, Po Adam, reheves their apprehensions — 
' Embassy of submission from the Malays of Quallah-Battoo — The Conunodore's 
admonition to them, interpreted by Po Adam — ^The Potomac anchors at Soo-soo 
to procure water — Precautions against a surprise — Po Adam's friendship for the 
Americans, and consequent losses — His character, dress, and personal appear- 
ance — His allegiance to the King of Acheen — Outrage of the king's brother — Po 
Adam's retaliation — His wives— Astonishment of the Malays on inspecting the 
force of the Potomac — Interchange of presents — Ceremony of kiUiiig a buf- 
falo . . 121 

CHAPTER IX. 

Sumatra, the Ophir of Solomon — ^Described by Marco Polo — ^Visited by the Ara^ 
—Discovered by the Portuguese — Size and location-<-Face of the country- 
Mountains, rivers, lakes, dtc. — Climate and temperature — Monsoons and other 
winds — Soil, minerals, metals, organic remains, dec. — ^Volcanoes and earthquakes 
— Origin of the inhabitants — Several distinct races — Description of their persons, 
dress, and ornaments — Effects of climate on charactei^^llustrated by the Esqui- 
maux, the Laplander, and the Arab— The useful arts in Sumatra — ^Villages, houses, 
furniture, and food — Productions of the animal kingdom — ^Manner of cultivating 
pepper, trees, spices, gums, dec 18S 

• * 

CHAPTER X. 

The Malays of Sumatra — Difficulty of delineating their Character — ^Their Language, 
Poetry, dec. — ^Five different Languages spoken in Sumatra — ^Malay duplicity — 
Effects of their intercourse with Foreigners — Conscious Inferiority — ^Erroneous 
Policy formerly exercised towards them — Favourable Traits- in their Character — 



CONTENTS. tU 

The RejangB— Their Laws, Cuttoms, end Political Regulations — ^Their judicial 
Proceediiiga— Manner of taking an Oath — Rights of Inheritance, dec. — ^Their 
secret Hoards — Security for Debts — Punishment for Theft and Murder — Court- 
ship, Bfaniage, and Divorces— Cock-fighting — ^Use of the Betele-nut — ^Tobacco 
— ^Early Maturity of Females— -Funeral Obsequies — ^Religious and superstitious 
Notions — ^The Lampoons— Their Hospitality 167 

CHAPTER XL 

Sumatra — ^The Kingdom of Menvigcabow — Its former Power and Splendour — 
Curious Proclamation of the Sultan — ^Arts and Manufactures of the People — 
Fire-arms and Gunpowder — ^The Battas; their Religion, Character, Manners, 
Customs — ^The Kingdom of Acheen — ^Description of the Inhabitants, Gorem- 
ment, Religion, dec. — Severity of their Punishments — Cruel Sport of the Quallah- 
Battooans — ^Dress and Character of the Achenese — ^Their Oratory — Revival of 
Trade after the late War — Imbecility of the Government — ^The Rajah of Trumon 
—Islands on the Coast— Pulo Nyas Parents sell their Children for Slaves — ^The 
Pogies — Islands and Inhabitants of Egano — ^Winds and Currents— Surveys and 
Charts, by Captains Endicott and Gillis 173 

CHAPTER XII. 

Early voyages to Sumatra— Portuguese establishments at Acheen and Pasay— 
Naval power of Acheen — Portuguese defeated — ^The English well received at 
Acheen — ^The Dutch suspected — ^The French, neglected — Rivalry and hostihties 
between the English and Dutch — ^English and French — ^The English at Padang — 
Americans visit the East — Commercial enterprise of Salem — Cames's voyage to 
Sumatra — Loss of his vessel in returning — Sails in the Rajah — His successful 
voyage— Consequent curioeit^ and excitement — ^Unsuccessful attempt at compe- 
tition-— Interesting extracts from the Records of the Salem East India Marine 
Society — Ship Friendship, WiUiams — ^Fanny, Smith — John, Barton — Three 
Friends, Stewart — Her accident in the Strait of Bally — Active, Nicholas — 
Recovery, Dana — and the Putnam — ^Tribute to the Commercial enterprise of 
Salem 196 

CHAPTER JXIII. 

Smnatr»— Effects of the Potomac's visit illustrated by facts — Piratical practices of 
the Natives previous to that event, and their good conduct since— Their former 
frequent attempts and failures proved by their own confessions, and the testimony 
of Shipmasters — ^Their triumphant boasting respecting the Friendship, and threats 
of future aggressions — Effect of that event on our Eastern Commerce— Revival 
of that Commerce afier the attack on Quallah-Battoo— Anecdote of Mahommed 
Bundah — His visit to the Potomac — Respect and admiration of the American 
character — Hints to Government on the protection of our Commerce 217 

CHAPTER XIV 

Passage to the Straits of Sunda — Centennial Anniversary of Washington's Birthday 

—Patriotic Reflections — ^Enter the Strait — Prince's Island — Java Head — Flat 

Point— Keyser's Bay— Lampoon Bay— Rajah Basse Peak— Hog Point— Mew 

A 



TUl CONTENTS^ 

Bay and Island — Pepper Bay — ^Anger Roada and Village — Cap and Button-^ 
Bantam, or St. Nicholas' Point — Shores of Bantam — Beautiftil Prospect — Bantam 
Hill, Bay, Town, and Villages — ^Traffic with the Natives — Perilous adventure of 
the Conmiodore— The Thousand Islands — Burial of the dead — The Petomac 
aDchon in Batavia Roads — ^Beacons in the Strait of Sunda . 335 

CHAPTER XV. 

Java and Sumatra once connected — Origin of the name of Java — Size and location 
of the Island — Origin of the inhabitants — Pagans and Idolaters — Java succes- 
sively visited by the Siamese, Arabs, Malays, and Chinese — Arab missionaries — 
Conversion of the inhabitants to the Mahommedan faith — the Portuguese visit 
the Island— The Enghsh— The Dutch at Bantam— At Batavia—Tfae EngUsh at 
Bantam — Massacre of Amboyna — Dutch oppressions — ^Massacre of the Chinese 
at Batavia — Americans visit Batavia — Governor DaendePs Administration — An- 
tiquities of Java — Description of the Javans — ^Their dress — Origin of the kru — 
Character, habits, and manners — Early marriages — Frequent divorces — Cookery 
and food — ^Amusements — ^Useful arts and manufactures — Houses, furniture, 
emplojrments, agriculture, and commerce — Government, literature, dec. • 864 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Bay and City of Batavia — Former Commerce, Wealth, and Magnificence — UneK> 
pected Reverses — Description of the City — Causes of its Unbealthiness — Im- 
provements by Marshal Daendels — Beauty of the Environs — Villas and Roads- 
Blue Mountains — Village of Buitenzorg — Ruins of Pajajaran — Population of Ba- 
tavia — Number and Condition of the Slaves — Chinese Industry and Festivals — 
Balians, Javans, and other Classes — Dutch Population — Frightful Mortality — 
Health of the City improved — Biogn^hical Sketch of Daendels — European Prov- 
inces of Java — Native Provinces — ^Total Population — Face and Appearance of the 
Country — ^Mountains, Volcanoes, and Minerals — Rivers, Climate, Soil, and Vege- 
table Productions — The Bohun Upas — Origin of the Fable — Poison made from the 
Sap of the Anchar — Animal Productions — Commerce, Revenue, and Political 
State of the Country 294 

CHAPTER XVn. 

Leaving Batavia — Illness of the Commodore*s son — Once more at Sea — Calms and 
opposing currents — Drag the bottom for shells — Augmentation of the sick-list — 
Heat of the weather — Caspar Straits — ^Tardy progress in the China Sea — Har- 
assing duty — Cross the equator — Island of St. Barbe — Pulo Aor — Sickness and 
death — ^Terrific thunder-storm — Death of N. K. G. OUver, Esq. — Funeral obee- 
quiea— Contribution for his family — ^Tedious calms, and oppressive heat — Increas- 
ing mortality — Dreary prospects — Cheering sight of a sail — Speak an EngUsh 
bark — ^Mutual interchange of courtesies — A vertical sun — Coast of China-^-Canton 
Bay — ^A Chinese pilot — Anchor in Macao Road 383 

CHAPTER XVni. 

Chtnft— Town of Macao— Lintin Island and Bay — Opium Smugglers — The Com- 
modare^s Excursion to Canton — Inhabitants of Lintin — Small Feet of the Cbineee 



C0NTEMT8. IX 

Women — Religious ceremonies — ^The Potomac ordered to Depart by the Chinese 
Authorities — Second Excursion to Canton — Passage up the river — Forts, Pago- 
das, Scenery, du:. — Wampoa, aquatic Population, &c. — Wonderful Skill of the 
Pilots — ^The Factories at Canton — Hospitable reception of the Party — ^The great 
Temple, or Jos-ho«se — ^The officiating Priests — ^The Jos Pigs, clerical Cells, 
Gardens, 6lc. — ^The great Bazar — Dramatic Performances — ^Anniversary of the 
Snake-boet — Police of Canton — Its Walls ^nd Grates — ^Forcing an Entrance — 
The Hong Merchant's expedition in Business — ^Mode of Computation — Description 
of Canton — ^Return of the Party 836 

CHAPTER XIX. 

The Empire of China — ^Unknown to the ancients — ^Its history involved in fable and 
tradition — Founded by Noah — Patriarchal form of government — Location, size, 
chies, towns, villages, monuments, libraries, dtc — ^Immense population — Observa- 
tions on acclimating her productions 368 

CHAPTER XX. 

• 

European rivalry in the east — ^Formation of the East India Company — Its conquests 
in India— First American vessel sails from New- York, and visits Canton — Inter- 
esting correspondence — ^Tabular view of our trade — Expiration of the Company's 
charter — ^New state of things opening in the east — Increased vigilance necessary 
on the part of our government — Free trade with China .... 367 

CHAPTER XXI. 

The Potomac sails from Canton — ^Thc Bashee Straits — ^The northeast tradewind — 
Cause and description of the tradewinds — Periodical winds — ^Monsoons — The 
sirocco, the simoon, land and seabreezes — Perennial and variable winds — An East 
India voyage ; its natural facilities — Period for commencing one — Reflections 
arising from the subject — Arrival at the Sandwich Islands . 388 

CHAPTER XXII. 

The Sandwich Islands, their number and location — The Island of Oahu — Indolence 
of the natives — Presentment at Court — Town of Honoruru, markets, houses, fur- 
niture, food, &c. of the natives — Hospitable reception and entertainment — ^A 
LuAUy or barbecue — Arrival of the young king — Dinner on board the frigate — 
Honours paid him — His attention to the Americans — ^Indian war-dance — A royal 
banquet — Battle-ground of Tamehameha — ^A supper at the palace — Dramatic 
performances — ^The Commodore's official interview with the king — ^Taking leave 
— Sailing of the frigate — Reflections on her visit — ^Missionaries and foreign resi- 
dents 399 

CHAPTER XXIII. 

Passage to the Society Islands — Island of Otaheite, or Tahiti — Matavia Bay — De- 
scription of the^ na^i^s — Dress, houses, food, dtc. — ^Appearance of the country— 
A banquet champStre — Divine worship— Increase of temperance among the na- 
tives — The queen-dowager — A sprig of royalty — Dinner on board the frigates- 
State of the Island— Sail for Valparaiso 424 



Z CONTKITTS. 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

Valpwaiio— Amicable deportment of the inhabitants— Interchange of civilitiea— 
Accomnlated documents — Extent and importance of the Pacific station — Illegal 
detention of two American whale-ships — Defects in our consular system — Effects 
of the revolution — Other ports on the coast — The islands — Sail from Valparaiso 
— ^Arrive at Callao — ^Meet with the Falmouth and Dolphin — Description of the 
harbour — ^Visit Lima 432 

CHAPTER XXV. 

City of lima — Climate and Temperature — ^View of the City from th%fummit of San 
Christoral — ^The river Rimac — Cisterns and fountains — Absence of rain, thunder, 
and lightning 440 

CHAPTER XXVI. 

Earthquakes in Lima — Destruction of the city — Callao overflowed and destroyed by 
the sea — ^Visit Valparaiso-^Retum to Callao, touching at Coquimbo~>Falmouth 
sails for the United States — Potomac proceeds to the north . 447 

CHAPTER XXVII. 

Oalqiagos Islands — Charles's Island; or La Floriana — Grovemor Yilamil's Colony 
^Its origin and advance — Description of the island — Its productions— Pure and 
ndiolesome water — ^Prohibition of spirituous liquors — Fowls, terapins, dec. — Climate 
and temperature — ^Abuses connected with our whale-fisheries — Improvements and 
reforms suggested 464 

CHAPTER XXVIII. 

Sao from the Galapagos — ^Visit Guayaquil — Touch at the ports of Payta and Lam- 
b^r^que — ^Arrival at Callao — ^Meet the Fairfield — Return to Valparaiso— Depart 
for the United States— Falkland Islands .474 

CHAPTER XXIX. 

Falkland Islands-r-Controversy between the Um'ted States and the Argentme Re- 
public, in reference to our right to a free use of the fisheries in the waters which 
sonoond theae islands and their adjacencies 480 

CHAPTER XXX. 

Pii e ag e north of the Falkland Islands — ^Icebergs — Perilous situation of the Potomac 
-^Arrival at Rio — Naval etiquette — Excursion up the Bay — Island of Paqueta — 
National festival — Sail for the United States— Arrival at Boston — Public de- 
•pitches — Splendid ball on board — ^End of the voyage .... 516 



I 



.i 



INTRODUCTION. 



In the month of October, 1829, 1 sailed from the city of New- 
York in the brig Annawan, N. B. Palmer captain, to the South 
Seas and Pacific Ocean. The particulars of this voyage, and the 
circumstances which led. to it, as well as those of my subsequent 
travels by land through the Republic of Chili, and the Araucanian 
and Indian Territories to the south, will be given to the public in 
another volume. Suffice it here, that I was at Valparaiso in 
October, 1832, just three years from the commencement of my 
voyage, when Commodore Downes arrived at that place, from the 
coast of Sumatra and some of the principal ports in the East Indies. 

He had been for some time expected on that station ; and 
early in the afternoon on the day of his arrival, it had been 
announced by telegraph, from the high hill which overlooks the 
town, that a large ship was in the offing. An hour passed away, 
and the signal announced a man-of-war, southwest from Playa 
Ancha, with all sail set, standing directly for the port. The 
wind was fresh, and she approached rapidly. The stripes and 
stars were seen waving from the mizzen peak of a stately frigate, 
which was now pronounced by all to be tlie Potomac. She 
entered the harbour late in the afternoon, making several seaman- 
like tacks against a strong southerly breeze. Crowds gathered 
upon the beach, and the Americans in port evinced emotions of 
pleasure, as each one felt that the strong and protecting arm of 
his government was near him. 

On the following day I went on board, with the view of 
visiting several of the officers with whom I had been pre- 
viously acquainted. Here I received an invitation from the 
commodore to join the Potomac as his private secretary, the 



VI INTRODUCTION. 

gentleman who had previously filled that station having died at 
sea. This is a pleasant birth on board a flag-ship^ and I accepted 
it, as the stay of the commodore on the station promised me a 
fine opportunity to improve my knowledge of the institutions, 
natural capacities, commercial resources, and political condition 
and prospects of so large a portion of South America, which 
hitherto I had not been able to visit. 

The cruise of the Potomac, thus far, had been one of great 
interest, and the services performed by her of high importance 
to our commercial interests in the east. News of her arrival at 
the Island of Sumatra, and her action with the Malays, reached 
the United States in the early part of July, 1832, at which time 
Congress was still in session. 

Partial statements relative to the occurrences at Quallah-Battoo 
had been published in the journals of the day ; and those papers 
had now reached the Pacific. The 'attention of Congress had 
been called to the subject. Mr. Dearborn, of the House of 
Representatives, on the 12th day of July, submitted a resolution 
calling on the President for the instructions under which Com- 
modore Downbs acted, in his attack on the Malays of the Island 
of Sumatra. The resolution was adopted without objections 
from any quarter; and before the adjournment of the House on 
the next day, a commimication covering the instructions was 
received from the President, recommending that these papers 
should not be made public xmtil a full report of the proceedings 
at Quallah-Battoo should be received firom Commodore Dovnies; 
intimating, that the vague rumours and partial statements before 
the public relative to the transactions at that place, when com- 
pared with the instructions under which that officer acted, might 
create an unfavourable prejudice against him in the public mind, 
which ought to be guarded against during his absence firom the 
country, and until all the circumstances which influenced his 
mind should be authentically known. 

On the reception of these papers, the House of Representatives 
referred them to the Committee on Foreign Affairs ; and after 
being examined by that committee, the latter unanimously con- 
curred with the President, that the instructions ought not to be 
published until official, /ull, and accurate information was received, 
as to the m»mer in which the instructions had been executed. 



^. 



nrraaDrcTioN. vn 

Without taking any further measures on the subject. Congress 
adjourned on the 16th of July. 

It seemed evident that the public mind, though always just 
when correctly informed, had, in this instance, been misled by 
partial statements and publications of irresponsible persons, who 
attempted to pronounce upon the merits of the proceedings at 
Quallah-Battoo without knowing, or having it in their power to 
know, a single motive which had influenced the mind of the 
conmiodore during his stay on the Malay coast. 

These circumstances, together with the extent and nature of 
the Potomac's voyage, — ^the direct manner in which the attention 
of Congress and the country at large had been thus early called 
to it — seemed to require that an authentic record should be pre- 
pared ; in which not only the incidents of the voyage, but the 
public considerations which led to it, — ^and the motives which, at 
different periods of the cruise, had operated on the mind of its 
commander, in carrying into execution the views and instructions 
of the government, should be faithfully preserved. 

It was at this time, and under these circimistances, and with 
the express sanction of the commodore himself, that I undertook 
the task of preparing this record — ^in the execution of which 
every facility was offered me. Though more or less indebted to 
most of the officers of the higher grades for some incidents of 
the voyage, noted down by them on going below from their 
watches on deck, yet I feel it my duty especially to acknowledge 
my obligations to Lieutenant R. Pinkham and Acting-lieutenant 
S. Godon. The former, an intelligent oflfirer, had kept a copious 
record, day by day, as the incidents of the voyage passed before 
him, which notes were placed in my hands. The latter, a yoimg 
officer . of high promise, had been an attentive observer, and 
recorded what he saw. For days, and weeks, and even months, 
he was ever ready to pore over the charts with me ; and, by a 
vivid recollection, to recall the rich tints of a tropical sky, the 
phosphorated gloamings of the ocean, or the mellow hues of the 
landscape among the " summer isles." The commodore's private 
journal was also in my hands ; while the daily communication 
and imrestrained intercourse which existed between us, enabled 
me to speak with knowledge of all the public considerations 
which guided the movements of the frigate under his command. 



V JkA 



1 



Till INTRODUCTION. 

In comparing what I had written from these authentic sources 
with the journal kept by N. K. G. Oliver, Esq., the commodore's 
private secretary during the early part of the voyage, I found 
not a line to erase, and scarcely a word to add. In addition to 
all these advantages combined, the length of residence on board 
of the Potomac, in the midst of those who had been eye-witnesses 
and actors, by whom the incidents 6f the past were so often 
brought in review before us, I found no difficulty in filling up 
even the lights. and shades of the whole picture, up to the period 
at which I joined the frigate — some twenty months previous to 
her return to the United States. Being thus famiUar with the 
whole subject, I have found it most convenient to adopt the first 
person and present tense in the narrative, from the beginning to 
the end of tfie cruise. 

Where I have travelled beyond the record of the voyage, and 
say something on our conmiercial interests in the east, of its his* 
tory, present condition, and means of its fiirther extension ; of 
sailing directions and the monsoons ; of the Chinese, their pecu« 
liarities and pagodas; of the Sandwich and Society Islands, 
their population, missionaries, and foreign residents and traders ; 
of the great Pacific whale fleet, the present derangement of this 
important branch of conunerce, and the necessity of some action 
on the part of the United States government for the preservation 
of this interest; of the people of South America, their political 
and social institutions; of the controversy with the Argentine 
Republic in relation to the Falkland Islands ; or of Riq and the 
empire of Brazil — I repeat, that what I say on any of these sub- 
jects, or others of a like nature, wiU be at all times on my own 
responsibility. 

A short time after the return of the Potomac, I addressed a 
line to the Honourable Levi Woodbury, at that time Secretary 
of the Navy, requesting permission to examme certain publi<f 
docimients on file in the department, from our commercial agents 
in diflFerent parts of the world where the Potomac had touched, 
and which might contain matter usefiil in rendering more perfect 
the details of my work. To this request I received the follow- 
ing reply : — 



IlfTftODVCnOV. ix 

*< Nsfy Dqwrtment, 9th Jane, 1884. 

« Sir, 
^' Your letter of the 5th inst. has been read; I sfaaQ be happy 
to oblige you mth the inspection of any papers in this depart* 
ment which are not confidential, and may be useM to you in 
your contemplated pubhcation. 

" I am, very respectfully, yours, &c. 

(Signed) "Leti Woodbury. 

" To J. N. Raynold*, Esq." 

The same facilities, in answer to a similar request, were 
poUtely proffered me by the Honourable John Forsyth, Secretary 
of State. 

One important object still remained to be accomplished, and 
without which the work would be very defective ; and this was 
to obtain a copy of the official and public documents connected 
with the cruise. As there had been special, as well as general 
instructions from the department to Commodore Downes, I 
deemed it my duty to inform the latter of my application to the 
department for copies of these papers, and received from him the 
following reply ; a copy of which I enclosed to the SecHstary of 
the Navy : — 

" CluurlMtowD, 96tli Avgnrt, 1834. 

" Dear Sir, 
" In answer to your note of the 19th inst., I have to state, Aat 
your having undertaken to prepare a Journal of the. Potomac's 
Cruise while on the Pacific station, with my knowledge and appro- 
bation, and so often having held free commimication with me on 
the subject ; and knowing, as you do, my wish, that whatever is 
published should be authentic, I can of course have no objection 
that my instructions from the Navy Department, imder which I 
acted while on the coast of Sumatra, with all official papers and 
reports made or received during the cruise, should be placed in 
your hands, with the sanction of the department, for the illustra- 
tion of your book. 

" Yours, very sincerely, 
(Signed) "John Dowots. 

«« J. N. Reynold!, Etq., New-York." 



X iNntoDUcnoN. 

« Nayy Dq)artment, September Ist, 1884. 

« Sir, 
" Your letter of the 27th iiltimo has been received, enclosing a 
copy of Commodore Downes' letter to yourself, consentii^ to 
your application for a copy of his instructions. 

" The Secretary of thle Navy will he here in a few days, when 
your request shall be submitted to him. 

" I am, respectfully, yours, 

(Signed) "John Boyle, 

" Acting Secretaiy of the Narf. 
" J N. Reynolds, lEm{., New-York.'.' 

" Navy Department, 27th September, 1834. 

« Sir, 
^' Your letter of the 20th inst. has been received ; Commodore 
Downes has the permission of the department to furhish you 
with copies or extracts, as may be most desirable to you, of his 
instructions and reports in relation to his operations at Quallah- 
Battoo. 

" I am, very respectfully, yours, 

^MaHLON DiCKEBSOir. 

" P. S. Commodore Downes has this day been authorized to 
furnish the above papers. 

"J. N. Reynolds, Esq., New-Yoik." 

With such credentials in my hands, and the consciousness of 
a well intended effort in my heart, I would respectfully make my 
debut before the American public — ^uninfluenced by vain ambi- 
ticm, unembarrassed by ill-timed diffidence: If my plain narra- 
tive of maritime incidents, perils, and achievenlents — 

<* AH that occurred, part of which 
Iwa$»*»»**»***" 

has no pretension to the charms of fine writing, it has at least 
the honest merit of truth and fidelity in the delineation of such 
facts as it purports to record. 



VOYAGE 



or TBI 



UNITED STATES FRIGATE POTOMAC. 



CHAPTER I. 

Object of the Cruiie— Selection of the Frigate — Her departure from Waahington— 
Reflectiona od passing Mount Vernon — Descending the River — Hampton-Roads— 
New- York — Additional Orders — ^Final Departure — Sandy Hook — ^Dismissing the 
Pilot — ^Tributes of Affection. 

The United States frigate Guerriere, under the command of 
Commodore Thompson, having nearly fulfilled her term of ser- 
vice on the west coast of South America, in the Pacific, it 
became necessary to despatch another ship-of-war to reHeve her 
on that important station. For this purpose, early in the year 
1831, the Navy Department selected and for the first time put in 
commission the frigate Potomac, then lying at the navy yard in 
Washington city. She had been built at the same place ten 
years previously, and is of the first class of frigates, a fine model, 
and commanding, warlike appearance. 

The officers intended for the cruise had received their orders 
in the early part of the year; and in the month of March a 
number of them had repaired on board, and reported themselves 
to the first lieutenant as ready for duty. On the 10th of May 
Commodore Downes was notified of his appointment to the 
command of the Potomac, then fitting for sea at' the navy yard 
at Washington, for the purpose of joining the squadron in the 
Pacific. Being at that period employed on other public duties, 
he was only able to visit the frigate once previous to her re- 
moval from the seat of government. He dien left her in the 



12 YOTAOB OF THB POTOMAC. [Juoe, 

charge of the executive officer until she should arrive in the port 
of Nevf-York. 

During the whole month of May the most active preparations 
virere going on aboard, so that by the 31st she was hauled out 
from the navy yard wharf, and by the aid of two steam-boats 
was towed over the bar, and moored head and stem off the mouth 
of the eastern branch of the Potomac. Previous to her removal 
from the navy yard, she had been visited by the President and 
Honourable Secretary of the Navy. 

The period from the 1st to the 14th of June was exclusively 
occupied in the outfits of the ship, and in getting off stores and 
various other articles ; though all the sea-stores could not be 
taken in at this place, owing to the want of a sufficient depth of 
water in many parts of the Potomac river. In the mean time 
the ship had undergone a material change in her appearance and 
internal arrangements, and not only began to assume more of the 
regularity of a man-of-war among her inmates, but in every other 
respect bespoke preparation for a distant voyage. She was at 
this time, 15th, again visited and inspected by the Honourable 
Secretary of the Navy and Navy Commissioners. 

On the following morning, the 16th, orders were issued to the 
commanding officer to proceed with the Potomac down the river 
to Norfolk. The anchor was immediately weighed, and the 
frigate put in motion by the aid of a fine steam-boat selected for 
towing her down the river to Hampton-Roads. 

The movements of a vessel of such dimensions down the 
intricate channel of a river which rises so many leagues from the 
ocean, was not only calculated to produce a painfrd anxiety, but 
was, in fact, a matter of no small responsibility. The city of 
Washington, it is well known, is that point in the United States 
to which the largest vessels can be navigated the farthest into the 
interior of the continent. This single fact evinces the vrisdom 
and foresight of him whose advice thus located the capital of the 
empire which he founded. 

Neither sectional partiality nor prejudice, it appears, had the 
least influence in determining this important matter ; for the father 
of his coimtry did not recommend the spot where the city of 
Washington now stands, until he had bestowed great and un- 
wearied pains, and made laborious and interesting reconnoissance 



'# 



1831.] LOCATION OF THE CAPITiX. 13 

of the country adjacent; and though the conflicting claims of 
other states, particularly those of Pennsylrania, were strongly 
urged against the measure, yet, fortunately for the nation, the 
popularity and influence of Washington surmounted every ob- 
stacle, and permanently fixed the seat of the general government 
in, perhaps, the best possible position that could be selected in 
any part of the United States. 

It may be mentioned as a curious coincidence, and a fact not 
generally known, that the present permanent seat of our national 
legislature is contiguous to the very spot where formerly were 
hghted the council-fires of the Powhattans, the most prominent, 
numerous, and powerful nation of red men in Virginia ; and on 
the banks of the Potomac, extending from the shores of Chesa- 
peake to the Patuxent. These people lived under a royal govern* 
ment, their despotic monarch being the father of the celebrated 
Pocahontas. The valley at the foot of Capitol-Hill, washed by 
the Tiber Creek, the Potomac, and the Eastern Branch, was, as 
we are informed by tradition, periodically visited by the Indians^ 
who named it their Jishing-ground, in contradistinction to their 
hunting-ground. Here, the tradition adds, the aborigines assem- 
bled in great numbers, in the vernal season, for the double pur- 
pose of preserving fish and consulting on the afiairs of the nation* 
Greenleafe's Point was their principal camp, and the residence 
of the chiefs, where councils were held among the various tribe» 
thus gathered together. This tradition was doubtless familiar to* 
Washington. 

It has been said above that a more eligible site for the seat of 
our national government could not have been selected. It is true 
that a hostile fleet has once violated the purity of these waters, 
conveying a sufficient military force to invest the capital of the 
nation, from which most of its physical strength had been drawn 
to defend points which seemed more exposed to immediate attacks 
But we were then a young, weak, and divided people, contending 
with a gigantic power. Things have changed since that period ; 
and the waters which have borne the warlike Potomac with her 
frowning batteries so many leagues from the interior to her 
destined element, can scarcely again, in the course of human 
events, be agitated by a hostile keel. 

Under the old confederation, fay which the states were nomi- 



^'j 



14 VOTAOE OP THE POTOMAC. [June, 

nally bound together, Congress was dependant upon the several 
•overeignties for " a local habitation," and might have been vir- 
tually dissolved by the mere refusal to permit the occupation of 
pubUc buildings. This inconvenience was provided for, probably 
at the suggestion of Washington himself, in the eighth section of 
the first article of the Constitution, which gave express power to 
Congress " to exercise exclusive legislation in all cases whatso- 
ever, over such district (not exceeding ten miles square) as might 
by session of particular states and the acceptance of Congress 
become the seat of the government of the United States." 

In accordance with this provision, the states of Virginia and 
Maryland ceded to the United States their jurisdiction over a 
district of ten miles square, situated on both sides of the Poto- 
mac, nearly two hundred miles firom its mouth. This cession 
was formally accepted by the United States government, in an 
act of Congress passed on the 16th of July, 1790 ; and ten years 
afterward, during the presidency of John Adams, the government 
was removed thither, and permanently established in the infant 
city called after the deathless name of its patriotic founder. On 
the 3d of May, 1802, Congress passed an act by which the city 
of Washington became incorporated ; the appointment of mayor 
being vested in the president annually, and the two branches of 
the council elected by the people in a general ticket. By a new 
charter granted by Congress in 1820, the mayor is now elected 
by the people for a term of two years. The city is rapidly 
increasing in wealth and population. 

Our gallant, though as yet untried firigate, moved gracefully and 
majestically upon the waters of the river whose name she bears ; 
and passing Mount Vernon with flag half-mast in token of respect 
for the sacred relics which were there deposited, she again came 
to anchor without accident at India Head. 

The reader is doubtless aware that the consecrated spot alluded 
to is situated on the Virginia side of the Potomac river, the 
course of which at this place is nearly southwest, though its 
general course is to the southeast. Moimt Vernon, therefore, is 
on the western bank of the river, and rises at least two hundred 
feet above its surface. It is about fifteen miles below the city 
of Washington, and eight miles firom Alexandria. It was so 
named in honour of AAkiiral Vernon, in whose celebrated expedition 



1831.] DEATH OF EX-PRESIDENT MONROE. 17 

portant of which is on Craney Island, near the mouth of the 
Elizabeth river, about five miles below the town. The United 
States commissioners who were appointed in 1818 to survey the 
lower part of Chesapeake Bay, reported that Hampton-Roads, 
though extensive, were capable of adequate defence, so as to 
prevent the entrance of an enemy's fleet. We therefore trust 
that our national metropolis will henceforth be secure from 
invasions. 

The general instructions of the secretary of the navy to Com-* 
modore Downes, as commander of the Potomac and of the Pacific 
squadron, are dated on the 27th of Jime, 1831. He was ordered 
to proceed to New-York by the 1st of August, if possible; and 
there receive on board the Honourable Martin Van Buren and 
suite, the recently-appointed minister to the court of St. James, 
who was to be landed at Portsmouth, or some other convenient 
' port in the British channel. The commodore was tlien directed to 
make the best of his way to tlie Pacific Ocean by a passage roxmd 
Cape Horn, first touching at Brazil. These instructions contain 
full and official directions as to the steps to be taken for the pro- 
tection of American commerce and sustaining the honour of the 
American flag, as well as for increasing the domestic resources 
of our own country, by obtaining and preserving such foreign 
staple productions as might be naturalized in our own soil. 
These instructions, so creditable to the department and to the 
character of our country, are given at length in the Appendix. 

Our frigate lay in Hampton-Roads imtil the 15th of July, 
during which period all hands were busily employed in taking 
on board such necessary stores as could be procured at this 
place. Here her officers first received the intelligence of a third 
point to a coincidence of a very remarkable character. On the 
4th of July, the anniversary of our national independence, James 
Monroe, the fifth president of the United States, breathed his last, 
in the city of New- York, at the residence of his son-in-law, 
Samuel Govemeur, Esq. This event had been for some time 
expected^ and was several days previous to his death momentarily 
looked for. His spirit, however, was permitted to linger in the 
body imtil his country's birthday came round ; and he departed 
while a grateful nation, for whose independence he had fought 
and bled — a nation which venerated him while living, and which 

B 



18 TOYAOE OF THB POTOMAC. [July* 

hallows his memory now as m the foremost rank of its benefactors 
— was holding its jubilee ! Thus, by a coincidence for which it 
would be difficult to find a parallel in history, three patriots of 
the revolution, who had successively graced the presidential 
chair, were called away to a more permanent state of existence on 
the glorious anniversary of the independence which they had so 
zealously laboured to achieve. The death of James Monroe on 
the 4th of July, 1831, completed the threefold miracle that was 
doubtless intended to convince the most skeptical of the divine 
superintendence of that providence which raised up these three 
statesmen and patriots for the purpose of achieving the work of 
independence. " Did this event stand single in our annals,'' says 
an orator of much deserved celebrity, " were it unconnected in 
our memories witHTthe deaths, on a former anniversary of the 
same glorious day, of two of his iUustrious predecessors, — even 
then a similar removal of the deceased would have been deemed 
admonitory, and would have commanded a solemn and appropriate 
notice. But following, as it does, that signal imion in their flight 
firom this world of the immortal spirits of Adams and Jefierson, 
the departure of Monroe must impress us with an awful sense of 
a divine interposition, and awaken a lively gratitude for the favour 
and protection of an overruling providence." 

On the 16th of July the Potomac, in conformity to orders, 
sailed firom Hampton-Roads for the port of New- York, for the 
purpose of completing her outfits of all kinds, and also to receive 
her conmiander on board ; who, having received his orders firom 
the department, was nearly ready to take the inunediate com- 
mand. Nothing material occinred during the passage of the 
firigate to New-York. On Wednesday, the 20th of July, she 
w^ announced by telegraph as being anchored outside the bar, 
waiting for a fair wind to enter the harbour. On the following 
day she proceeded up the bay in gallant style, and came to 
anchor ofif the Battery, in the Hudson river. 

Although it was for some time intended that the Potomac 
should proceed firam New-York to England, in order to convey 
our newly-appointed minister, the Honourable Martin Van Buren, 
to the court of St. James as before stated, this arrangement, it 
will be seen, was ultimately abandoned, and Mr. Van Buren pro- 
ceeded to England in the regular packet-ship President, which 



1831.] ADDITIONAL INSTRUCTIONS. 19 

sailed on the 9th of August ; while new and additional orders 
were issued from the navy department, which totally changed the 
intended course of the Potomac, and sent her round the southern 
cape of the opposite continent. 

On the 4th of August the United States frigate Hudson, Cap- 
tain Cassin, arriyed in New-York from Rio Janeiro, via Bahia, 
having left the latter place on the 2d of July. There were now 
three commanders' pennants floating over the waters of this port ; 
viz. the blue of Commodore Chaimcey, who commanded the station ; 
the red of Commodore Downes^ who commanded the Potomac ; 
and the white of Commodore Cassin, who commanded the Hud- 
son ; — ^blue, red, and white being the order of the navy. 

About the middle of July information was received in the 
United States of the piratical attack which had been made upon 
the ship Friendship, of Salem, on the coast of Sumatra, in the 
month of February preceding ; the Malays having treacherously 
seized that vessel, and massacred part of her crew, who were 
receiving on board a cargo of pepper. The particulars of this 
imparalleled* outrage on the United States flag and the lives and 
property of her citizens, will be given in detail in its proper place, 
where a chapter shall be devoted exclusively to the subject. 
The public were unanimous in calling for a redress of such an 
atrocious grievance, and the Potomac was now designated by 
government to perform that service instead of proceeding directly 
to her original destination. The route of the frigate to her station 
in the Pacific, as contemplated in the previous instructions, was 
therefore immediately changed, that measures might be promptly 
and efiectually taken to punish so outrageous an act of piracy ; 
Mr. Van Buren having, for this purpose, magnanimously relin- 
quished his purpose of taking passage in the frigate, as the land* 
ing him in England would delay her arrival at the scene of this 
perfidious attack. 

Messrs. Silsbee, Pickman, and Stone, of Salem, addressed a 
letter to Washington, dated on the 20th July, 1881, requesting 
that measures might be adopted by government for the punish- 
ment of the ofienders in the case of the Friendship ; but before 
this letter had reached Washington, arrangements for that purpose 
had been put in progress by the secretary of the navy on the 19th 
of that month, and a letter written to Salem on the subject on 



N -r.#' 






fO YOTAOE OF THE POTOMAC. [AugUSt, 

the 22d, of which they were apprized by another letter dated the 
25th of July, in reply to that of the 20th before referred to ; in 
which they were requested to furnish the department with such 
local information relative to the region where the outrage was 
committed, as might become essential in seeking indenmity or 
inflicting punishment on the perpetrators. A copy of this letter 
will also be found in the Appendix. Through the medium of 
thii correspondence the goveminent obtained the services of a 
gentleman of Salem, who had been personally concerned in the 
pepper-trade on the coast — was on board the Friendship when 
attacked, and was well acquainted with that part of Sumatra. 

The preparations being completed, additional instrucUons on 
this branch of the cruise were given to the commander, as before 
mentioned, by the secretary of the navy, on the 9th of August. 
In order to appreciate the judgment and caution with which these 
instructions on so delicate and important a subject were drawn 
up, as well as to enable the reader, in the sequel, to judge of the 
faithful and officer-like manner in which they were carried into 
execution, it will be necessary for him to recur to the copy which 
we have been permitted to insert at length in the Appendix. By 
these instructions it will be seen he was directed to proceed from 
Rio Janeiro to the east by the Cape of Good Hope, to call the 
treacherous Malays to an accoimt, and tedress our grievances in 
that quarter ; and from thence, after visiting certain ports in the 
Chinese Seas, to cross the vast Pacific, and take command of the 
squadron on the west coast of South America. 

With reference to the outrage in question, the public press 
evinced a sensitiveness which did honour to the editorial corps. 
Only a few days previous to the sailing of the Potomac, many 
articles on the subject appeared in the daily papers, from one of 
which the following extracts are copied : — '^ As far as pubUc sen- 
timent can be collected from the newspapers and from general 
conversation, it appears to be the unanimous wish of the nation 
that one or more of our ships-of-war should be despatched to the 
western coast of Sumatra, to look after our conunercial interests 
in that remote sea, and punish the natives for the outrage recently 
conunitted upon tlie ship Friendship, of Salem." In the same 
article it is added, " A high-handed outrage has been conmiitted, 
and if it be suffered to pass by imavenged, we know not how 



K^ 



1631.] TRIBUTES OF AFFECTION. 21 

many others may occur. The approaching departure of the 
Potomac will afford the goyemment an opportunity of intrusting 
the expedition to an intelUgent, active, and gallant officer, who, 
we apprehend, would teach these piratical vagabonds such a les- 
son respecting American manners and customs as would hereafter 
induce them to mend their own." 

Although Conmiodore Downes had hoisted his broad pennant 
on board of the Potomac on the 24th of July, he was still absent 
on business until the 23d of August. During this period the 
Potomac lay at anchor off Castle Garden, in the North river, 
and every arrangement deemed necessary for a long and distant 
voyage was completed. 

The vnnd, which for several days had blown from an unfavour- 
able quarter, chopped round on the morning of the 24th of August, 
and gave us a fine Ught breeze from the northwest. '* All hands 
up anchor, ahoy !" was the cheerful cry which passed through 
the ship before five o'clock, ere the rising sim had gilded the tall- 
est spires of the city. This summons was succeeded by a scene 
of bustle and excitement which can only be realized by one who 
has witnessed its effects on the officers and crew of a man-of- 
war bound on a distant cruise. The Potomac's canvass wings 
were suddenly expanded, as if by magic, and the gallant vessel 
moved slowly but graceftdly from her anchorage down the bay, 
until Sandy Hook lighthouse bore east by south half-south, when 
she was again brought to anchor. 

The wind and tide both favoured the departure of the Potomac 
on the morning of the 26th, and by eight o'clock she had passed 
the bar with a fine leading breeze. The maintopsail was now 
laid to the mast, while the pilot made his hasty preparations to 
depart. At Buch a moment most vessels, but, perhaps, especially 
a man-of-war, present a busy and interesting scene. There had 
been ample leisure for writing during the days of detention by 
contrary winds; but the last moment on such occasions must 
always be embraced; and the state-rooms of the officers, the 
ward-room, steerage, and cockpit, are occupied by writers pen- 
ning hasty adieus, despatching the last little earnest of continued 
affection. If tkis be a mere matter of feeling, be it so ; there is 
something sacred in it which the warm heart can always appre-* 
date — for a lin^ written at the moment the noble vessel lies 



2S VOTAGB OF THE POTOMAC. [AugUSt, 

shaking in the wind, and about to bound fearlessly on her destined 
track, mutfl \lways possess a value that under no other circum- 
stances can be imparted to it. 

The pilot, having taken charge of these sacred scraps, hastened 
to his little boat, which had been dancing on the undulating 
billows near the Potomac like another nautilus during the whole 
of the morning. The ship was now filled away, and every draw- 
ing sail set, bearing to the south and east. 

There have so often pretty things been said, and so many fine 
changes rung on language in describing the feelings of the heart 
on bidding to our " native land good night,** that we shall attempt 
nothing of the kind here. We are well aware, however, that 
thousands are daily taking their departure without evincing any 
unusual emotions about it ; and yet we do really believe no one 
can thus depart without experiencing emotions which do credit to 
the human heart. 

In four hours, and they were short ones, the last faint lines of 
the highlands had vanished, and the active duties to which many 
were called seemed to relieve them from the recollections of 
home. But it is the youth, the young " reefers," who have for 
the first time left the parental fireside, who are likely to feel 
much in moments like these. Though previous to their embarca- 
tion they think they have a tolerably correct idea of the privations 
and toils of the mariner's life, and feel their minds well fortified 
to combat the most untoward events ; yet, when in the space of 
a few hours they find themselves tossing upon the mighty deep,* 
and that deep begirt only by the open horizon, the ship dashing 
with each fireshening breeze, with accumulated velocity, firom all 
their young affections hold dear ; 'tis then that the heart, despond- 
ing, shorn of every pride, feels its firailty, and o¥ais how strong is 
that cord which binds to country and home. 

They now remember with the liveliest feelings and emotions 
of filial affection, that the kind admonitions of a father were really 
and in truth kind. Bygone hours and days, spent firom home 
with convivial fiiends, or in search of some momentary pleasurCj 
now present themselves to their lively imaginations, shaking their 
"gory locks," upbraiding them with their time mispent — or, if 
not entirely mispent, they feel they might have been much bet- 
ter employed in the society of a fond mother or sister — of those 



1831.] 



FINAL DBPAKTUSa. 



whom they now sensibly feel are and ever must be the truest 
objects of their affections and obedience. 

Having gained a sufficient offing, the anchors were, ai is usual, 
securely stowed, cables unbent and coiled in their respective 
tiers, and, in the language of a thrifty housewife, as weU as of 
the sailor, every thing " made mugP 



,••• 



r- 



M TOTAOIB 09 THB POTOKAC. [AugUSt, 



/ 



CHAPTER II. 

fieapuclmess— The Gulf-stream — ^A Storm at Sea — Cape de Yerds — St. Antonio 
— A Whale-ihip-— Trial of Speed — Crossing the Eqoator — ^Rio Janeiro— Conr- 
teons Reception of the Frigate. 

On the second day following her departure from Sandy Hook, 
a tionbling sea caused an irregular pitching and rolling motion of 
the vessel, peculiarly unpleasant to those who were unaccustomed 
to the turbulent domains of Neptune. The certainty, however, 
that sea-sickness is not fatal in its effects, and that, sooner or 
later, a restoration to health will ensue, has sometimes encour- 
aged others, whose stomachs are proof against this scourge of the 
" fresh man of the sea,** to sport in wanton mood with the de- 
jected feelings of the sufferer. Yes, we repeat, sufferer, for 
woful experience has taught, that, of all the " evils which flesh 
is heir to," none is so unpleasant, for the time being, as sea-sick- 
ness. The spirits droop, the heart sickens — a total indifference 
to life, death, friends, home, country, succeeds — ^until every thing 
seems swallowed up in that nauseating stupor which preys upon 
the very spirit itself ! 

The autumnal equinox was now fast approaching, a season of 
the year which frequently introduces itself into the North Atlantic 
with storms and tempests, and even violent and destructive hur- 
ricanes. 

As the Potomac approached the gulf-stream, she underwent 
the usual preparation for storms and squalls, so generally met 
with in this portion of the Atlantic ; so usual, indeed, that it 
iuis become proverbial — 

" ThBi in the stream 
The lightnings gleam, 
And Boreas blows his blast.** 

The commodore had hoped to escape every thing like a gale, 
quite content to try the qualities of his ship for sailing with fine 






s 

1 



\ 



■►■« 



V 



1831.] STORM WITH VIVID LIGHTNING. 25. 

breezes and clear weather. In this, he was disappointed ; c^, on 
the twenty-eighth, the wind, which had for some hours prevailed 
from the eastward, with rain, partially died away, the sky became 
overcast with threatening appearances, which the wary and ex- 
perienced seamen very soon recognised as the prelude to the 
approaching gale. No light sails were spread to woo the fickle 
breeze, but topgallant and royal yards were sent upon deck, and 
the flying jib-boom housed. As the night set in, the wind in* 
creased. 

** Now, while on high the freshening gale ihe feels, 
The ship heneath her lofty pressure reels. 
Th' aTudliar sails, that court a gentle hreese, 
From their high stations sink hy slow degrees.'* 

The courses were hauled up, jib stowed, mizzen-topsail furled, 
6panker lowered, and the fore and main-topsails double reefed. 
It is at such times, and on such service as this, that the brave 
daring, the recklessness of danger, the ambition to be foremost 
when duty calls, no matter where, shine most conspicuous in the 
character of the thorough-bred and true sailor. 

" *Tis his the harder toil to share, 
To reef, to fiirl the sail ; 
To face the lightning's lurid glare, 
And brave the sweeping gale.** 

Indeed, the true sailor takes pleasure in doing his duty amid 
real dangers, when he feels that the " superior officer set over 
him" is competent to judge whether or not that duty is performed 
in a seaman-like manner. 

The gale, for by eight, P.M., it had the strength of one, in- 
creased every moment till ten, when the ship was brought to, 
head to the southward and westward, under close-reefed fore and 
main-topsails, and courses furled ; when, at the same time, the 
foretopmast-staysail was hauled down, and the fore*storm stay- 
sail set. 

Soon after midnight the gale had increased to almost a perfect 

hurricane, and the ship was pressed down by the irresistible 

blast, until relieved by furling the close-reefed fore-topsail, and 

. setting the main and mizzen-storm staysails. From twelve to 



k - 






t 

f 



26 VOYAGE OF THE POTOMAC. [September. 

four, A. M., it blew with a violence seldom witnessed, even in 
this region of tempests. The sea, which the evening before had 
been comparatively smooth, now rolled in mountains before the 
storm. Seldom had the electric fluid assumed such a variety of 
colours in so short a period of time. Though the flashing was 
incessant, yet in the space of a few seconds were exhibited, in 
the coruscations of the subtile fluid, all the varying colours of the 
rainbow { twice did it pass down the fore-conductor, assuming on 
the second descent a most singular appearance. As the fluid fol< 
lowed the conductor, at each link of the chain, an electric spark 
was thrown off of the deepest red, while the livid line of light 
simultaneously marking the direction of the conductor, rendered 
it a singular phencnnenon« 

The rain, at intervals, fell in torrents; indeed, the roar of 
winds, and heavy peals of thunder, the successive and vivid 
flashes of lightning, laying bare the angry surface of the troubled 
vn^rs, and presenting to the view, masts, ropes, rigging, and 
the men toiUng upon the yards, and at the next moment aU in 
darkness, imparted to the night a character of wild and terrific 
grandeur seldom surpassed. 

To the green reefers, as the younger midshipmen are some- 
times jocosely called on board a man-of-war, this was rather a 
rough introduction into the mysteries of their profession. Indeed, 
it may be doubted, if any protege of Neptune, even one of his 
eldest sons, could view, without concern, the high and soul-stir- 
ring sublimity of such a storm at sea ; his stately ship, like a 
huge animal struggUng with the elements, now poising on the 
top of a deeply undulatory wave, now sinking in the trough of 
the sea, and again rising and bursting through the phosphoric 
gleamings of the crested billow, and dashing the water from her 
sides, as the lion shakes the dewdrops from his mane. 

As the morning dawned, the gale abated, and moderate breezes 
firom the north succeeded, with a high and irregular sea. The 
latitude was 36^ north, longitude 66" west. 

The metamorphosis which a vessel undergoes, after the abate- 
ment of a storm, is always a pleasant sight ; and hence no sound 
is heard with more joy, on such occasions, than the vociferation 
of the boatswain, as " all hands make sail, ahoy !" is repeated by 
his mates through all parts of the vessel. To this call o&cdm 






1831. J CAPE DE TERD8. 27 

and men respond with alacrity, as it is the harbinger of fine 
weather and clear skies. The stately topmasts of pine soon 
bear their flowing sheets, while the unfolding brails of the heavier 
sails add apparent dignity and strength to all below. Topgallant 
sails, royals, and studding sails, spread, as if by magic, their 
white surface to the breeze, and bright eyes, and cheerful glee, 
show that the storm has sunk to rest. 

Early on the morning of the twenty-first September, St. An- 
tonio, one of the Cape de Verd islands, was in sight, bearing 
southeast, and about ten miles distant. This is the most west- 
em, or rather northwestern island, of the whole group, being in 
latitude H"" north, longitude 25'' 3(y west. The reefs were 
turned out of the topsails, with the view of keeping off, and, if 
possible, avoiding the calms which ships are Uable to experience 
when they pass near this lofty island, some of the mountains of 
which are nearly as high as the Peak of Teneriffe. As a gen- 
eral remark, all vessels not wishing to touch at the Cape de 
Verds, should keep at least thirty miles to the west of St. An- 
tonio, and thereby avoid the frequent calms which take place 
within ten or fifteen miles of the land. 

The voyage of the Potomac, thus far, had not been very favour- 
able, as her course had not been facilitated by any winds which 
were entitled to the appellation of trade. On the day following, 
the commodore stood in close with the island of Brava, the most 
southern of the group, and by far the most fruitful. Two boats 
were now despatched towards the shore, in charge of Lieutenant 
Pinkham, to procure, if possible, fruits and vegetables. The 
principal landing-place is on the northeast part of the island, 
though hopes were entertained that a landing might be effected 
on the west side, in the offing of which the Potomac lay. 

After rowing several miles to the southeast, along the shore, 
without finding a single spot against which the sea did not break 
with violence, the boats were compelled to return to the frigate. 
Upon the sides of almost perpendicular mountains and cliffs, 
goats and monkeys were seen ; the latter keeping up an incessant 
chattering, as if alarmed at the near approach of the boat to- 
wards their airy and solitary abode. But no human beings were 
visible, save two only, who were seated on a rock, fishing, in a 
•taite of perfect nudity. Thus failing in his intention of procuring 



"^Pk 






28 voYAGB OF THB POTOMAC. [October, 

refreshments, the commodore shaped his course for the capital 
of the Brazilian empire. 

In approaching the equator, a rather unusual share of baffling 
winds and showers of rain were thought to prevail. In latitude 
of about three, north, on the night of Saturday, the first of Oc- 
tober, a brilliant light was seen from the deck, in a northwest 
direction. Many beUeved it a vessel on fire ; but on more atten- 
tive examination, it was found to be a whale-ship, '' taking care" 
of the successful labours of the preceding day. 

On the following morning, which was iSunday, the vessels 
were so near each other, that the conunodore allowed a boat to be 
lowered, to board the whaler. She proved to be the ship Mer- 
cury, forty days from New-Bedford, bound to the Pacific ; having 
had the good fortune to take a '' hundred barrer spermaceti, not 
a comnoon circumstance ; as, we believe, that of more than ten 
thousand a year taken by our ships, only four have been known 
to produce more than one hundred and twenty barrels. 

This vessel, the Mercury, had been distinguished as the swift- 
est sailer in the South Sea fleet; and had gained no little 
notoriety in the year 1828, in a trial of speed with the United 
States frigate Brandywine, both leaving Payta, on the coast of 
Peru, and beating dead against the southerly tradewinds; in 
which contest the Mercury came out in advance. A similar 
trial of speed took place between the whaler and our own goodly 
ship, as will be seen directly. 

At meridian, on the second of October, a sail was reported 
from aloft, directly ahead, and standing for us. At half past two^ 
we had neared the stranger sufficiently to perceive that she wtm 
a clipper brig ; and she, on her part, appeared to be satisfied with 
the view she had of the frigate, as she soon tacked, and stood on 
the same coiu'se as ourselves, which was directly opposite to b^ 
track when first discovered. At three, P. M., beat to quarters, 
and run in the gun-deck guns, closed up the ports, and otherwise 
disguised the Potomac as a merchantman, as much as possible. 
It was about a four-knot breeze, and all the sail we could put on 
the ship to advantage, had been spread from the first of the chase ; 
at dark we lost sight of her, about two points on our weather 
bow, and distant about five miles. The Mercury was now near 
iifl» on our weather quarter. We had gained considerably on the 



1831.] CROSSING THE LINK. 29 

chase, but not sufficiently to bring her within range of the eye 
after the night had set in. From that time until daylight, we 
tacked four times, endeavouring to get to windward, and inter- 
cepting what we had made up in our minds was a slaver ; the 
Mercury following our motions, and keeping as near as she 
could. 

At daylight on Monday morning, the third, the Mercury was 
on our lee-beam, and, as our logbook expresses it, '* the brig on 
our weather quarter." We were on the other tack immediately^ 
which brought us directly in her wake, and we felt assured that 
she could not escape us. Owing to the light wind, it was twelve 
o'clock (noon) before we came within hailing distance, when, as 
she showed no disposition to heave to, our colours were hoisted, 
and she was ordered by the commodore to do so, when she hoisted 
English colours, and immediately complied. Our boat was sent 
to board her ; and, in a short time, returned with the information 
that she was the English brig Brothers, from Liverpool, bound to 
Pemambuco. Great was our surprise to learn from the captain, 
that that morning was the first of his seeing us ! The chase of 
yesterday had escaped. 

After several days of light winds and calms, a fine breeze from 
the southeast sprang up on Wednesday, the fifth. Our friend 
the whaler, who was still near us, stood his ground for some time 
with the Potomac ; while the speed of the latter did not exceed 
seven or eight miles an hour. But as the wind increased, the 
frigate began to draw ahead ; and, from being, at nine o'clock, 
A. M., within gunshot, at three in the afternoon, he could only 
be seen, indistinctly, from the mast-head, astern ! From this fact, 
something could be inferred as to the good quaUties of the 
Potomac. 

On crossing the equator, there was nothing seen of Neptune or 
Amphitrite, in the process of inducting those of the crew who 
had never crossed the line, or been initiated into the mysteries 
of his marine highness. Commanders difier in opinion as to the 
propriety of permitting the " old sea-dog^ to exercise his rough 
jokes upon those who are about to pass, for the first time, into 
the southern hemisphere. 

We are not of that school who foresee ruin • to the navy, and 
annihilation to commerce^ because sailors have cut off their' long 






30 VOYAGE OF THB POTOMAC. [Octobei, 

queues, and, in a thousand other respects, are different from what 
they were an age ago ; and the antique custom just alluded to, a 
relic of heathen superstition, without even the merit of classical 
embellishment to reconunend it, may be well dispensed with, as it 
must often do harm, and cannot, in any possible instance, be pro- 
ductive of good. 

In an age like the present, distinguished for the march of im* 
provement, and replete with discovery and advancement in every 
department of human science and knowledge ; when a single day 
produces results which years could not have formerly effected, it 
cannot be expected that the sailor alone should remain uninflu- 
enced by the revolutions which every thing else in the moral 
universe is perpetually undergoing. The changes which have 
been wrought in his manners and customs, have been most un- 
questionably for the better. 

In illustration of this remark, it may be here mentioned, that, 
during the passage from New- York, great attention had been paid 
to drill the men in the exercise of the great guns. Every day, 
when the weather would permit, these exercises were performed; 
and, once a week, all went to general quarters, when all the exer- 
cises and manoeuvring of a regular attack and defence were car- 
ried through with the same precision as if the frigate were en- 
gaged in a real action with an enemy. A division of one hundred 
and fifty men, at this time, also, were being drilled to the use of 
the musket ; and they evinced a readiness in the acquisition of 
this new species of seamanship^ not to have been expected, from 
the generally supposed repugnance, on the part of Jack Tar^ to 
the use of small arms ; or to the acquirement of any accomplish- 
ment which more properly appertains to the soldier. 

It is not strange, that, in the olden time, when sailors were 
dragged by force into involuntary servitude on board ships-of- 
war, and performed their allotted duties only at the point of the 
bayonet, that strong dislike should have been engendered against 
those who were mere tools in the hands of others, to enforce the 
observance of regulations to which they had never willingly sub- 
scribed. Shipping articles, in those days, were mere mockeries, 
and the marines were relied on to hold the sailors in bondage. It 
required time to. smooth such asperities in the human breast, and 
hence, no doubt, arose the prejudice of the sailor to the life, char- 



I 



1831.] LAND IN SIGHT. 31 

acter, and profession of the soldier. On board of the Potomac, 
this animosity did not seem to exist ; or, if it did exist, its influ- 
ence was but weak, as sailor and marine appeared to mingle 
together in peace and good-will, as men who might be required 
mutually to stand by and support each other. 

Nothing material occurred until the morning of Simday, the 
sixteenth, when the exhilarating announcement of " Land, ho !** 
from the mast-head, produced a new excitement through every 
part of the ship. It proved to be Cape Frio, or Cold Cape, as it 
is called, which bore west-northwest, forty -five miles distant ; and 
at six, P. M., the same cape bore north by east, twenty-five miles 
distant. This cape is in latitude 23" 30', longitude 42" 2', about 
twenty leagues east of Rio Janeiro. The ship was hoven to, 
during the night, with her- head to the south-and-east ; the weather 
being cloudy, and the wind fresh. At about midnight, a vessel 
was seen to the eastward, but not near enough to be spoken. 

In the morning, it was found that the current, which uniformly 
sets to the southward and westward along this part of the coast, 
together with a high sea, at this time heaving in the same direc- 
tion, had borne the Potomac to the leeward of the entrance 
of the harbour of Rio Janeiro. While in the act of wearing 
ship, in the midst of a squaU, Razor Island was discovered ; and^ 
immediately afterward, the breakers on Baga Island, while the 
thickness of the weather hid from view every other part of the 
coast. The instant these landmarks were recognised, the com- 
modore ordered the ship brought upon the wind, on the star- 
board tack; and such confidence had he in her qualities to 
weather the island and enter the harbour, that he directed 
the mainsail, jib, and spanker to be set, in addition to the single- 
reefed topsails and foresail. It was a moment of some anxiety ; 
and the Potomac, by occasionally immerging the muzzles of 
her gun-deck guns in the water, gave evidence of the pow- 
erful exertions she was making ; though a strong weather-bow 
current was running, together with a heavy head sea. Still, 
her wake was as straight, apparently, as a clipper's ; and, in an 
hour, the island was weathered, and, with square yards, she was 
brought to her anchorage in fine style. The maritime community 
were not a little surprised to see a frigate enter the harbour on 
such a morning, and in a living gale of wind. 



« - 



22 YOTAGB OF THE POTOMAC. [October^ 

There were lying in the harbour at this time, his Britannic 
majesty's ship Dublin, a razee of fifty guns, thirty-two-pounders, 
Lord James Townsend in command ; the Druid frigate, Captain 
Hamilton, and two sloops of war ; a small Swedish frigate, and 
the French commodore, in a double banked j&igate. Also, the 
BraziUan frigate Constitution, the only one in commission, bear- 
ing the broad pennant of Commodore Jewett. 

From each of these vessels, officers were sent to the Potomac^ 
offering to Commodore Downes, in the name of their command- 
er«y such assistance as he might stand in need of. The Brazilian 
government, through an officer despatched to the proper authori- 
ties, immediately on the Potomac coming to anchor, congratulated 
the commodore on his safe arrival, and expressed their willingness 
to return the salute customary to be interchanged between 
nations at peace with each other. For the seventeen guns of the 
Potomac, nineteen were returned from the BraziUan fort. This 
was probably an error ; if not, it was highly complimentary to 
our flag. Be this as it may, instances are not wanting, where the 
friendly feeling of these people has been made manifest towards 
the star-spangled banner of the United States. So far as our 
country had been represented at Rio by the lamented Tudor, the 
Brazilians could not be at a loss for a motive to pay the highest 
respect to our national flag. In the successor to this worthy 
man, we have been fortunate in having secured the services of 
the Honourable E. A. Brown, a ripe scholar, possessing every 
requisite qualification for usefulness in such a station. 

Mr. Brown visited the Potomac during her stay at Rio, and 
was received vnth the salute usually given to the foreign repre- 
sentatives of our coimtry. The hospitality of our consul, Mr. 
Wright, and of other American citizens resident in Rio, is grate- 
fully recollected by the officers of the Potomac ; and Mr. Brown, 
our charge d'affaires, seems to have made many friends by his 
urbanity and gentlemanly deportment. With these, the house of 
the Messrs. Burkitts was often visited with pleasure, and added not 
a little to the enjoyment of our officers during their stay at 
Rio. 

The United States ship Lexington, Master-commandant Dun*- 
can, had arrived at Rio some time before the Potomac, in sixty- 
two days from Norfolk. Like the ftigate, she had been disap- 



1831.] CLAIMS ON BRAZIL. 33 

pointed in meeting with the northeast trades ; and had, also, ex- , 
perienced much cahn weather near the equator. 

Our claims on the Brazilian government have been adjusted. 
These claims were founded on a "/cw mistakes'^ which had 
occurred during the late war with Buenos Ayres, when the 
blockading squadron of the La Plata had appropriated to their 
own use and behoof sundry vessels and cargoes, belonging to 
sundry good citizens of the United States, who were navigating 
the high seas upon " their lawful occasions." 

The British government was at this time urging its claims to 
indemnity for spoliations upon her commerce, committed under 
similar circumstances with those upon our own vessels ; but, it 
would appear, with less success. Both parties were evidently 
growing warm upon the subject, and, but a short time previously, 
Uie conunander of the British squadron threatened that he would 
blockade the port, and make reprisals. Whether the threat was 
officially communicated to the Brazilian government or not, we 
do not pretend to know ; but the fleet did get under way, and 
proceed off the harbour ; and, after backing and tilling for a day 
or two in a rather menacing manner, returned to its original 
anchorage. 

There were those who were ready, of course, to indulge in a 
sarcastic smile at this manoeuvre of Admiral Baker, which, it ap- 
pears, had not the desired effect, if it had been done for that pur- 
pose. The Cortez was at this time in session ; and the claims 
preferred by the British government seemed to give rise to much 
excitement between the two parties. 

We have stated above, that our claims on the Brazilian govern- 
ment were adjusted ; that is, the principle of settlement had been 
agreed on, though much in detail remained to be done. 



1^ 



84 TOTAOE OF THE POTOMAC.' [OctobOT, 



CHAPTER III. 
\ 

HaibouT of Rio Janeiro and surrounding Scenery — Appearance of its entrance from 
the Offing — Its works of Defence — City of Rio, or St. Sebastian — Public Square, 
Facade, and Fountain — Public Buildings, Houses, and Shops — Paucity of Accom- 
modations for Strangers — Climate, Food, and Health — ^Arcos de Carioco, or 
Grand Aqueduct — Discovery and Settlement of Brazil — ^Injustice to the' Natives 
— Origin of the African Slave Trade — Discovery and settlement of Rio Janeiro- 
Emigration of the Royal Family — Their Return to Portugal — Civil Revolution in 
Brazil — Accession of Don Pedro — ^War with Buenos Ayres, terminated by an 
unpopular Treaty — Abdication of Don Pedro^Insurrectionary Symptoms — Cler- 
ical Abuses — Population of Rio — Condition of the" Slaves — Natural Productions 
— Theatrical file on board the Potomac. 

Had human agency been exercised in planning and constructing, 
for human use, the harbour of Rio Janeiro, it would be impossible 
to conceive a more felicitous result. It is a beautiful and capa- 
cious basin, imbosomed among elevated mountains, whose conical 
summits are reflected from the translucent surface of its quiet 
waters. The entrance is so narrow, and its granite barriers so 
bold, that it was, doubtless, often passed by early navigators, be- 
fore it was suspected that such a retired and hidden inlet existed. 
To the aborigines of the country, it was known by a name corre- 
sponding tq, its character ; for they called it " Hidden water,** 
which, in tlieir language, is expressed by the term Nithero-hy. 

As this part of the Brazilian coast runs nearly east and west, 
the entrance of the harbour opens to the south, a few miles, of 
the tropic of Capricorn. It is defended by the Fort of Santa 
Cruz on the east, opposite to which are others of suitable 
strength, in vicinity of a high conical hill, called the " Sugar- 
loaf," which some modem travellers have compared to the " lean- 
ing tower of Pisa." 

The entrance to this celebrated estuary, when seen from the 
offing, presents the appearance of a gap, or chasm, in the high 
ridge of mountains which skirt this part of the coast ; and which, 
doubtless, once dammed up the waters within, until their con- 
tinually accumulating weight burst the adamantine barrier which 



*» - 



Ol 






l. 



183L] RIO DE JAKEIRO. 35 

j^ hitherto held them in confinement, and, spuming farther re- 
I^Pnt, forced a passage to the ocean. In the same manner, the 
» JBlue Ridge of Virginia was evidently rent in twain by the two 

united rivers, whose mingled waters now form the Potomac ; and 
tome suppose that the highlands of the Hudson once exiiibited 
the same phenomenon. The fragments created by this con- 
vulsion of nature at Rio, are supposed to liavc been thrown, into 
the sea, where they stilt- remain, before the entrance of the har- 
bour, in the form of a bar, on which there is 'li^ver more than ten 
fathoms of water, while, just within it, there is not less than 
eighteen. However this may be, the chasm itself, as it now 
exists, presents a most picturesque appearance, opening as it 
does between two lofty mountains — Signal Hill on the riglit, the 
Sugarloaf cone on the left. These two remarkable piles of 
almost naked granite, present a striking contrast with the rest of 
the broken ridge, to which they now form abutments, as every 
other prominent part is covered with luxuriant vegetation. 

On extending the view a little farther inland, the frowning bat- 
teries of Santa Cruz castle^ with the Brazilian I^nner floating 
above them, are seen on the right, based on a solid rock of gran- 
ite, thirty feet in height, projecting wcstwardly from the foot of 
Signal Hill. Opposite to tliis, on the left, eastwardly of Sugar- 
loaf cone, another fortress is discovered, of inferior strength; 
while between the two, but nearest to the latter, is a little island, 
strongly fortified, known by the appellation of Fort Lucia, which 
' reduces the width of the passage to about three quarters of a 
mile. The Sugarloaf is said to be nearly seven hundred feet in 
height, and every accessible spot on that side the entrance is oc- 
' cupicd by batteries, lines, and forts, or rather bears the. evidence 
of having thus been occupied. 

After passing all these naturally strong-holds, the harbour sud- 
denly expands, and extends itself into a circular, or rather elhp- 
tical, inland lake, which is sprinkled over with islands which 

** Stand dress'd in living green ;" 

and surroimded by moimtains rising in many ridges behind each 
other, like a vast natural amphitheatre. The tide rises in the 
harbour between four and five feet, and there is always sufficient 
depth of water to float vessels of the largest size. 

c 2 



u 

86 YOTAOS 07 THE POTOMAC. [October, 

The natural scenery which surroundfl the harbour and cit^jg^ 
RiOy has been frequently described, and often highly coloured^qr 
trarellers. It is, indeed, beautiful to the eye ; but, for our own 
part, we do not think that the meandering, streams and gently 
murmuring rivulets of Brazil, pursue a more tortuous or fanciful 
course than those of the United States ; nor can we perceive 
that ^ their murmurings are, in the least degree, more '' musically 
plaintive," or excite more tender emotions of the heart, than a 
creek of the AllegmCny, or a small stream at the foot of the Stony 
Mountains, gurgling over the limestone pebbles, to pay its ^b- 
utary mite to the majestic Missouri. Yet, among the objects that 
must arrest the attention on entering this majestic harbour, is the 
noble sheet of water, filling an oval basin of thirty miles in 
length and nearly fifteen in breadth, sufficiently capacious to con- 
tain all the fleets in the world — ^protected by a chain of moun- 
tains rising from its narrow mouth, and extending back, one 
above another, imtil the eye loses them amid i^diite and fleecy 
clouds, which play in graceful curls aroimd their airy summits. 
This view is certainly pleasing and exhilarating, and it is diver- 
sified, in many places, by cultivated spots, even to the hi^est 
elevation ; while the valleys beneath are filled with the rich and 
rare fruits pecuUar to the tropics. The shores of this '' emerald 
gemm'd" basin are also indented with nimierouiB inlets, many of 
which are the mouths of rivulets that dash down the declivities 
of the mountains, as if eager to mingle with the tranquil waters 
of this great bay. Almost every eminence around it, as well as 
many of its islands, is crowned with a fort or a castellated parapet 
— a church — a convent — or a picturesque ruin. 

Although the fortifications already alluded to completely pro- .i|, 
tect, by their positions, the entrance of the harbour, the whole 
of which is conunanded from within, by works long since erected ' 
on nearly all the surrounding heights and many of the islands, 
but now in ruins or ill repair ; stiU, the defence of the place is 
thought to depend principally on a very strong fort, on the Ilha 
dos Cobras^ or Snake Island, directly in front and near the north 
angle o£ the city, from which it is separated only by a deep chan- 
nel of moderate width. This island is a soUd rock, of about nine 
hundred feet in length, three hundred in breadth, and, at the point 
where the citadel stands, eighteen feet in height. All around, and 



1881.] &IO DB JAMSIEO. 37 

dose alongside of this sMngly-foitified rock, which gradually 
dedinesy at one end, to within a few feet of the water, vessels of 
the largest burden may he in perfect security. Here, also, are 
found wharves, dock-yards, magazines, arsenals, naval stores, a 
sheer-hulk, and many facilities for heaving down and careening 
vessels. Between Fort Lucia and the citadel is another fort, 
which commands the anchorage. 

The site selected for the town by the early settlers, is, perhaps^ 
the best that could have been chosen out of many excellent ones 
that everywhere present themselves. The city of Rio, otherwise 
called St Sebastian, is situated on the southwest side of the har- 
bour, or basin, about four miles from its entrance, and stands on a 
quadrangular peninsula, or square tongue of land, extending, on an 
inclined plane, a short distance into the bay. The town itself 
which also exhibits the form of a parallelogram, and rises between 
four fortified eminences, which flank it at each comer, presents a 
northeast aspect of the basin, whose waters wash three sides of 
the square promontory on which it is built. 

On a height flanking its eastern angle is a square fort, com- 
manding and protecting stores of light ordnance, when deposited 
cm the point below. Between this and the north angle of the 
peninsula, is a beautiful quay, built of soUd blocks of chiselled 
granite, and forming an elegant facade in front of the city, and an 
eligible line for musketry and light cannon, to oppose the landing 
of an enemy's force, in case they should get possession of the 
harbour. On the north angle is another conspicuous eminence, 
on which stands the Benedictine convent, overlooking the island 
Dos Cobras on its east, from which it is separated only by a deep 
narrow channel, as before mentioned. On this side of the penin- 
sula, near the water's edge, is a range of storehouses, overlooked 
by another square fort, flanking the west angle of the city, and 
conunanding the imperial dock-yard beyond it. On the south 
angle of the town is the fourth eminence alluded to, on which is 
built the reservoir for receiving from the great aqueduct the water 
which supplies the city, and of which we shall speak presently. 
Between the last-mentioned eminence and the waters of the 
l^in which wash the southeast side of the peninsula, is a public 
garden called the Passeo Publico, which is handsomely laid out 
in ahnibberies, lawns, walks, and parterres. 



38 TOTAOE OF THK POTOMAC. [October, 

The city is well built, most of the houses being of stone, and 
the whole laid out in squares, the streets crossing each other at 
right angles. The palace, or imperial residence, faces the water ; 
and with the open capacious square in front of it, one entire side 
of which it occupies, is in full view from the anchorage. This 
square, which is the first object that catches the attention of 
strangers, is surrounded on three of its sides with buildings, while 
the fourth, which is bounded and lined by the stone quay, is open 
to the water. On the quay itself, near its central flight of stairs, 
which is the principal landing-place, in front of the square, is a 
beautifrd fountain in the form of an obelisk, constructed, like the 
pier, of hewn granite ; and from each of its four sides is con- 
stantly ejected a stream of pure limpid water, for the use of the 
lower part of the town, and the shipping in the harbom*. 

On advancing up the square from the landing, the visiter finds 
it paved with a smooth, solid surface, of the same kind of granite 
of which the obelisk and quay are constructed, and copiously 
sprinkled over with quartzose sand, which, together with the 
glistening mica of the Rio granite, is very trying to the eyes 
under the fervid rays of a tropical and sometimes vertical sim. 
The palace, which occupies the upper side of the square, though 
extensive in its dimensions, has nothing particularly magnificent 
in its appearance. The other pubhc buildings, including the im- 
perial chapel, a cathedral, churches, convents, nunneries, theatre, 
opera-house, &c., do not exhibit any imposing views of elegant 
architecture. Though originally built widi much cost and labour, 
no pains have been taken to keep them in repair. The streets are 
generally straight, but the most of them are narrow and dirty. 
The houses are conmionly two stories high, with Uttle wooden 
balconies in front of the upper windows, where the ladies some- 
times present themselves, but not so frequently as in olden time, 
to throw flowers and nosegays at the foot passengers, or to listen 
to the nocturnal serenades of their lovers. But whether in Italy, 
Portugal, or Rio, latticed windows, without glass, always wear a 
dull and gloomy aspect to a traveller from England or the United 
States. The prmcipal streets of Rio have flagged sidewalks, 
like those of our own cities. 

The shops are generally large and commodious, and well sup- 
pUed with English goods, and various other kinds of merchandise. 



1631.] RIO DI JANSIRO. 39 

Chinese goods can also be purchased here at a reasonable rate. 
There are many American and English merchants in the city, 
who, it is said, are doing a lucrative business ; the export trade 
being almost entirely monopoUzed by them. The jewellers and 
lapidaries are principally found in Gold-istreet, which is the gen- 
eral resort of strangers who wish to procure articles in that l^e. 

Although the city of Rio is the capital, and conunercial em- 
porium of the Brazilian empire, with a population of less than 
two hundred thousand souls, including slaves ; and although it is 
constantly visited by merchants, traders, and travellers, from Asia, 
Europe, and the United States, speckling its harbours with the 
flags of almost every nation; yet it cannot boast of a hotel, 
coffee-house, inn, tavern, restaurateur, refectory, boarding-house, 
or any decent resort, at which strangers can procure refreshment, 
and a comfortable night's lodging. Comfort, indeed, even in the 
imperial palace, must be entirely out of the question, unless roy- 
alty enjoy some better protection from the attack of mosquitoes 
than the common republican curtains of network can afford ; for 
if, by any accident, a single intruder find his way beneath the 
netting, wo betide the helpless sufferer within ! Its rascally hum 
throughout the night, sometimes within a most threatening vicinity 
of the ear, is even worse than the puncture made in the skin with 
its sharp proboscis ; for the latter will, at the most, but cause an 
irritating titillation, accompanied with a slight degree of swelling 
and some inflammation ; but its tuneful serenade is a perpetual 
menace, that cannot fail to drive sleep from the pillow of one who 
is not drugged with poppies, or worn out with fatigue. These 
insects are troublesome enough in some portions of our own 
country, but here we console ourselves with the hope, that they 
will dearly pay for their temerity on the first appearance of an 
autmnnal frost. But between the tropics they are immortal ; or, 
at least, a new generation is constantly springing up to take the 
places of their progenitors ; and, as with the fruits of the same 
climate, their existence is peremiial. 

With regard to the character, manners, and habits of the Por- 
tuguese Brazilians, we are not in this place prepared to say much ; 
for they seem determined that the eye of foreign curiosity shall 
never penetrate the sanctity of the domestic circle; and that 
strangers shall know but little of them in the private walks and 



40 voTAOB OP THB POTOMAC. [October, 

social relations of life. They are, in fact, as suspicious and jeal* 
ous of foreigners as their ancestors were before them; and so 
politely forbidding, generally, are their manners towards visit- 
ers, that no traveller, or temporary sojourner, can penetrate the 
mystery of their domestic economy. 

All travellers agree in charging the Brazilians with the want 
of hospitality to strangers, and many futile reasons have been 
adduced as the cause of this peculiar trait in their national char- 
acter. It is said that they were not always so; but having 
found their hospitality so frequently requited by ingratitude and rid- 
icule on the part of iheir guests, they have of late years assumed 
this reserve. This explanation, however, is not satisfactory. 
The effect seems to be too disproportioned to the cause ; and, on 
looking further for the solution, it is thought that it may be found 
deeply rooted in their feelings and prejudices, and strongly mark- 
ing their national character. Yet still, as a people, they are cer- 
tainly entitled to the appellation of polite; and many of our 
officers while on shore, and visiting some of their finest gardens, 
were very civilly treated by the owners, who not only seemed to 
take a pleasure in showing their visiters aU that was interesting, 
but in treating them to firuits and flowers, which were tastefully 
arranged in the gardens. 

The lower classes, however, the filthiness of whose exteriors 
is thought to be a correct indication of the pollutions within, 
are said to be revengeful in the extreme; and assassinations 
sometimes occur among them. This is often the case in most 
countries where the protection of the church is paramount to 
secular power, and where offenders find, or think they find, if not 
sanction, at least acquittal, in the forms of their religion ; and 
believe that clerical absolution is divine justification. In its true 
spirity we know that they do not. In Rio, many of their priests 
are not what they ought to be, and most of them follow but slowly 
in the moral and scientific improvements of the age. For, often 
hypocrites themselves, they are prone to practise on the credulity 
and superstitions of their ignorant followers ; and, in the support 
of their dominion over the minds of the lower orders, thev hesi- 
tate not to commit acts, which, under laws human and divine, ren- 
der the laity obnoxious to punishment. But more of this anon. 
With respect to a majority of the higher classes, persons of 



1831.] RIO DS JANBIBO^ 41 

rank and merchants of affluence, we might appropriately apply 
part of the epitaph of Lord Ljrttleton — 

** ObjIj I li?ed, aa ease and nature taught, 
And spent my little life without a thought." 

With them, sleeping, eating, and heartless ceremonies, consume 
the four-and^twenty hours ; the same dull and unprofitable routine 
alternately succeeding with each revolving day, without variety 
and ¥rithout pleasure. The imnatural restraint and imdue se- 
clusion imposed upon the fair sex, render the ebullitions of their 
heartfelt vivacity, when suffered to mingle with society, more 
conspicuous and more fascinating. But even in their public 
amusements, of which there are not many, the ladies seem to be 
watched with a jealous care, by husbands, fathers, or brothers ; 
but when they venture to steal a glance at a stranger, their elo- 
quent black eyes speak volumes of interesting matter. There is 
a theatre and an opera-house here ; but we witnessed the per- 
formance of neither. The former, it is said, di:oops from a 
paucity of talent ; and the latter, though more worthy of it, meets 
with but httle encouragement. Concerts and balls occur occa- 
sionally, but the climate is not favourable to dancing. The Passeo 
Publico is frequented in the evening by small parties, to enjoy the 
promenade, the music, and the fireworks. But there can be but 
Uttle taste for rational amusements among a people proverbially 
indolent, superstitious, and jealous of each other. 

The Passeo Publico affords a pleasant promenade, and contains 
many native plants and flowers of exquisite beauty. At the lower 
end of this garden is a broad terrace walk, from which the com- 
pany have a delightful view of the bay and its rising shores, 
which are everywhere fringed with coppices. On looking south 
a little promontory is seen projecting into the water, on the castel- 
lated brow of which stands a monastery,' and immediately beyond 
it an arm of the harbour, extending weslwardly into the land. On 
extending the view further south, the beautiful eminence of 
Flamingo appears, covered with verdure ; beyond which is another 
hill, on the declivity of which stands a religious edifice, called 
Gloria Church, and in the extreme distance are seen the Sugar- 
loaf and Signal Hill, Ufting their aspiring heads to the clouds, and 



42 YOYAOE OF THE POTOMAC. [October, 

overlooking the castle Santa Cruz. At the distance of about a 
niile from the city, another fort is seen, emerging, as it were, 
from the water, and occupying a position just half way between 
Fort Lucia and the citadel on Dos Cobras. Still further north, 
on the eastern shore of the basin, appear romantic little villages, 
hamlets, gardens, orange-groves, and rustic cottages, without 
number; giving a beautifrilly picturesque finish to the whole 
picture. 

At the time of the Potomac's arrival at Rio^ it being their first 
simuner month, rains were very frequent, and the clouds hung 
heavy around the summits of the neighbouring mountains, giving 
to their spiral points, peering above this misty covering, the ap- 
pearance of immense rocks suspended in the air. The city 
its^f looked dismal and gloomy, as if to be in keeping with the 
>cial manners of its inhabitants. The climate here, however, 
isBerhaps as favourable to health, comfort, and even to longevity, 
asShat of any other place between the tropics. Situated under 
the extreme edge of the celestial belt, they have the sun nearly 
vem^ for a few weeks in December, when the heat is oppres- 
sive, pSMeularly during the Christmas holydays, which is their 
midsummer. At this season a monsoon regidarly sets down the 
coast to the southwest, and refreshing seabreezes seldom fail to 
visit the inhabitants at about ten o'clock in the morning, invigor- 
ating them with new life and spirits. 

During all the summer months, say from October to April, they 
also suffer considerable inconvenience from heavy rains, to which 
they are seldom subject in the months of May, June, July, 
August, and September, when the monsoon blows in an opposite 
or contrary direction. Both climate and soil are favourable to 
the growth of wheat and other grains of the United States, to- 
gether with vegetables and fruits of almost every description. 
Industry and enterprise are all that is necessary to render this 
region the garden of the world ; but these are quaUties seldom 
found beneath a tropical sky, or in any chmate where all the 
necessaries, and many of the luxuries of Ufe, are produced spon- 
taneously, and where lassitude and indolence are constitutional 
maladies. 

The food served up at their meals is not such as would gener- 
ally please a guest from the United States, the principal part of 



«* 



.f- 



1831.] &I0 DK JANEIRO. 48 

their diet consisting of fish, vegetables, finiit, and a dish of farinha 
de paOy or flour of the maniota root. Almost every thing they 
put in their mouths is first dipped in oil, and then rolled in the 
flour just named, and made up into little balls in the palm of the 
hand. Beef, butter, cheese, and milk, axe very scarce in Rio, and 
of very indrfierent quahty. Of mutton, we saw none that was 
good. The fertile and extensive plains of the southern provinces 
abound with innumerable herds of homed cattle, which are 
slaughtered principally for the sake of their hides, while the car- 
casses are left as a banquet for the tiger, panther, condor, and 
eagle, who share it between them. The richness of the soil ren- 
ders the grasses too luxuriant, rank, and acrid, for the sustenance 
of sheep. 

It is believed that there are very few diseases peculiar to this 
part of Brazil, except such as necessarily arise in all low lati- 
tudes, from bad diet, the neglect of personal cleanliness, and the 
indulgence of various propensities. During the rainy seasons, 
however, and for a month or six weeks afterward, dysenteries 
and intermittent fevers are said to be prevalent. Cutaneous erup- 
tions are conunon among all classes, particularly those of the 
lower order, and among the coloured population especially. Lep- 
rosy and elephantiasis are among the afflictions of the latter. 

But if the diet of the inhabitants of Rio be not always the 
most favourable to health, they enjoy one blessing which will 
counterbalance a thousand trivial evils, — a supply of pure and 
wholesome water. We have already alluded to the reservoir 
from which the city is supplied with this indispensable article, 
and which is fed by a splendid stone aqueduct, leading from the 
mountains, built, it is said, after the manner of similar works in 
Rome. This work, which is called Arcos. de CariacOy extends 
across a deep valley, resting on a double tier of lofty arches^ one 
above another, and the water is conducted to the reservoir by a 
succession of stone troughs, laid on the top of this two story 
bridge, under an arched covering of brickwork. Each tier com- 
prises more than forty arches, and the whole of this great work 
of utility is lughly ornamental to the city, and reflects lasting hon- 
our on the name of Vasconcellas, the viceroy under whose admin- 
istration it was constructed. All the fountains of Rio are supplied 
from this source ; and the name of the public-spirited projector, 



'i 



44 VOTAOK OF THE FOTOMAC. [Octobei, 

Yasconcellas, is recorded on one side of the obelisk before men- 
tioned, with an appropriate inscription in Latin. 

The Brazilian empire, of which the city of Rio Janeiro is the 
capita], lies on the eastern coast of South America, and spreads 
to the west, until it covers more than thirty degrees of longi- 
tude; its eastern extremity being on the thirty-fourth, and its 
western on the sixty-fifth meridian, west from Greenwich. Its 
extent from north to south, where it tapers off to a point, is about 
three thousand miles, being from latitude 4"* north, to 34* south, 
including a debatable region called Banda Oriental, on the north 
side of the Rio de la Plata, The entire territory of Brazil is 
therefore bounded on the north by Guyana; on the west by 
Bolivia and Peru ; on the south by Banda Oriental ; and every- 
where else by the North and South Atlantic Oceans. 

This country was first discovered by accident, in the year 1500, 
by the Portuguese Admiral Pierre Alvazez Cabral, who was on 
his way to India, via the Cape of Good Hope, with a squadron 
of thirteen ships, manned by twelve himdred men. In order to 
avoid the tedious calms and baffling winds which had so much 
retarded the progress of all his predecessors in running down the 
western coast of Afirica, he made a more circuitous route, and 
crossed the equator several degrees farther west than any other 
navigator had done before him. The consequence was, a brisk 
southeast tradewind carried him directly to the coast of South 
America, in latitude about sixteen south, where he found a con- 
venient bay, in which he could anchor his squadron ¥rith safety. 
To this inlet, which is some five hundred miles north of Rio Ja- 
neiro, he gave the name of Porto Seguro ; and, naturally con- 
cluding that he had thus discovered a more southern part of the 
same continent which had but recently been made known by 
Columbus, he took possession of it in the name of his sovereign, 
under the appellation of Santa Cruz, or the Holy Cross. The 
mouth of the Orinoco, in latitude nine north, was the southern 
limit of the discoveries made by Columbus. 

The natives were at first much alarmed at this unexpected visit 
of the Portuguese, and incontinently fled to their hills and woods. 
But having secured two of their nimiber, the admiral presented 
them with mirrors, brass rings, bells, and other trinkets, and then 
set them at liberty to rejoin their fugitive companions, whose ter- 



1831.] RIO DX JANBIBO. 45 

rors were soon appeased, and their confidence restored. A mutual 
good understanding now prevailed between the natives and the 
Portuguese, who foimd the cou^tiy to be extensive, fertile, and 
finely wooded, particularly with that valuable species now known 
by the name of Brazil wood. Cabral inunediately despatched 
one of his vessels back to Portugal to conununicate the news 
of his discovery, and then proceeded to the Cape of Good Hope, 
and to his original destination. 

Don Emanuel, the King of Portugal, inunediately sent out 
ships to explore the coasts of this new country, and to plant colo- 
nies in several places, for the avowed purpose of converting the 
natives to the Christian faith. These new settlements, however, 
soon dwindled away, and were finally broken up. The zealous 
monarch, still anxiously solicitous for the salvation of the heathen, 
and willing to reheve them of some of the mineral treasures with 
which it was expected their country abounded, hit upon a new 
plan of colonization. He decreed that all convicted felons under 
sentence of death, should be banished thither — all who were ob- 
noxious to the Holy Inquisition — all who were suspected of her- 
esy, sorcery, witchcraft, and, above all, of Judaism;— in short, aU 
the outcasts and dregs of society, were doomed to perpetual exile 
on the shores of Brazil. To the Jews, indeed, banishment was 
a welcome sanctuary from the injustice and rapacity they con* 
stantly experienced at home ; and neither they nor their compan- 
ions in exile had any reason to complain of the arrangement. To 
all of them, emigration was emancipation firom tyranny and op- 
pression. • 

As these new settlers treated the natives kindly, they were well 
received, and soon found their situation much improved. The 
fame of the new colony, as being productive of excellent sugar, 
and several other valuable articles, gradually attracted to its coast 
many adventurers from Portugal and elsewhere, and several settle- 
ments were soon formed in its vicinity. So rapidly did it increase 
under the good management of these banished outlaws, these 
dregs of humanity, as they were considered, that in less than fifty 
years from its commencement, the mother country began to yearn 
with tenderness towards her transatlantic children, and she at 
• length resolved to take them under her own protection, and into 
her own especial keeping. For this purpose, Thomas de Sousa 



46 voTAOB OF THB POTOMAC. [October, 

was sent over to superintend the colony as gOTemor-general ; to 
make war upon the hospitable and unoffending Indians, in order 
to reduce tnem at once to slavery and the true faith ; and to com- 
pel them to cultivate the ground for the colonists, on such teims 
as he chose to dictate. 

This outrageous course of conduct, as might naturally have 
been expected, quickly roused the free independent spirit of the 
natives, whose courage and numbers would have soon swept the 
intruders from their soil, had it not been for the interference 
of some Jesuit missionaries, who had already acquired great 
influence over the Indians near the coast, who^n they endeav- 
oured to persuade to accede to terms of reconciliation with the 
colonists. Some consented, and thus became subservient to their 
invaders ; but the great mass of the original population, having 
lost confidence in their double-dealing neighbours, refused to hold 
any further intercourse with such monsters of injustice, but indig- 
nantly retired into the interior, resolved, as afterward did the 
Araucanians on the western side of the same continent, to maintain 
their independence at all hazards. Thus failing in the nefarious 
attempt to make slaves of the natives, and being too indolent to 
perform their own agricultural labours, they turned their eyes 
towards ill-fated Africa, and were the first to commence that 
horrible traffic in human flesh, which, for three hundred years 
since, has been the disgrace of humanity ! 

The proscribed outlaws who formed the nucleus of this colony, 
which has sinc^ grown to a mighty empire, and is now an inde- 
pendent nation, originally seated themselves at Porto Seguro^ 
from whence they gradually extended themselves to Bahia de 
Todas Santos, or the Bay of All Saints, in latitude 13M8' south, 
longitude 38*" 24' west, where they founded the city of St. Salvador. 
Here, for many years, was the seat of the colonial government, 
and the emporium of Brazilian commerce ; the principal articles 
of importation being African slaves, twenty thousand of which 
were, but a few years ago, imported annually into the different 
ports of Brazil. 

Fifteen years after Cabral's first landing in Brazil, during which 
period the Pbrtuguese. navigators had explored a great portion 
of the Southern American coast north of the La Plata, the har- 
bour pf Rio Janeiro was first discovered by Solis. This hap- 



1631.] RIO DB JANEIRO. 47 

pened on the first day of January, being the feast of St Janiitt- 
rius. In honour of the day, he conferred the saint's name on those 
waters which had hitherto remained concealed from every eye but 
those of the natives; who, as before stated, had given to this -'^ 
tranquil basin the significant appellation of Hidden Water. ^ A 
thriving colony, in due course of time, surrounded the safe and 
• capacious harbour, on the banks of which a city was founded, 
which grew rapidly in wealth and splendour. 

Still, however, for a long period, the seat, of government and 
of commerce remained at Bahia de Todas Santos ; which, though 
ene of the smallest provinces of Brazil, was yet one of the most 
fertile, populous, and luxuriant ; St. Salvador would probably have 
still been the capital of the empire, but for the fortuitous (we will 
not say fortunate) discovery of the rich gold and diamond mines 
within three himdred miles of Rio Janeiro, which gave a decided 
' preponderance to the latter. The viceroy removed thither, and 
Rio became the seat of government. It now grew more rapidly ; 
and had it not been for the unjust and impolitic restrictions of the 
mother country, it would have still increased in trade, industry, and 
opulence, and in time become one of the largest and most wealthy 
cities of the world. But Portugal thought to retain her colonies 
. by oppressing them. So thought England, thirty years before 
her. Both of these acted under this impression, and both of them 
lost the brightest jewels of their crowns. 

For a commercial city, a belter location can scarcely be ima- 
gined ; surrounded as it is by a coimtry, whose natural capacities 
and resources are equal to the highest expectations. The har- 
bour, as we have stated, is among the best on the whole surface 
of the globe. Vessels are never detained in the ofiing, as the 
regular tradewinds facilitate their entrance ; while the land 
breezes of the morning favour their standing out from the anchor- 
age ; nor is a pilot needed, as seven fathoms is the shoalest water 
in the entrance to the harbour. The facilities for watering vessels 
are great, while provisions of all kinds may be had in abundance. 
But with all its natural advantages, capabilities, and resources, 
Rio still drooped under ihe mistaken policy of the mother country, 
imtil one political event gave it a fresh impulse, and « new start on 
the race-course of commercial prosperity. 

The event here alluded to, which proved indirectly and inci* 






48 TOTAOB OF THB POTOMiLc. [October, 

dentally the very means which enabled Brazil to assume the 
standing which, at this early period of her pohtical existence, she 
now holds among the nations of the earth, was the removal of ihe 
royal family and comt from the capital of Portugal to the shores 
of America. The people, delighted at any change which might 
improve the condition of their country, and especially one that 
raised them from a colony to a kingdom, received the royal emi- . 
grants with a respect bordering on adoration. This event took 
place in the year 1803, and the city of Rio Janeiro was determined 
on as the seat of government and the location of the royal court. 

From this period, Brazil improved with almost unparalleled 
rapidity ; for with the court came numerous wealthy and respect- 
able famiUes, together with numberless merchants and artisans 
of all descriptions. The face of the whole country changed, and 
Rio began to assume the appearance of a city ; Portugal gradu- 
ally becoming the colony, and Brazil assuming the functions of a 
mother country. 

Indeed, the necessary consequence of the removal of the court 
from Portugal, was that of the whole importance of the country 
going with it ; while the disturbances of Europe also contributed 
to advance this new state of things in Brazil, whose ports were 
open to receive emigrants and imports from every part of the 
woriiiL Rio was made a free port, and the whole coast was 
of^ed to foreign commerce. Vessels of all nations flocked to 
h^ ports; mercantile houses were estabUshed; trade went on 
briskly ; and a few more years of such a wise and Uberal poUcy 
must have made the country rich indeed. 

But disturbances broke out. The Brazilians, dissatisfied, be- 
came jealous of the strangers, as they now regarded the royal 
family. Quarrels ensued, difficulties were created, and the old 
and weak monarch, Don John, who had left Europe to seek 
quiet in his colonies, was now compelled reluctantly to return. 
And thus, in the year 1823, the king embarked for Lisbon with 
all his family, except Don Pedro, his son, who was left as regent. 
The latter, however, was soon recalled by his father, which deter- 
mined the Brazilians to shake off the yoke of Portugal altogether. 
To the wishoB of his father, Don Pedro had promised imphcit 
obedience. On several occasions, however, he had been sus- 
pected of creating disturbances, although he always had the 



1881.] mo M lAKBitlo. 49 

•ddresa to remove these impressions, and again to establish him- 
self in favour. 

He now, however, went with the people, and declared himself 
in favour of the disaiBfected BraziUans. The yoke of provincial- 
ism was shaken off; Brazil was declared free and independent. 
A new form of government was estabUshed, under the title of 
" Empire of Brazil," of which Don Pedro was declared emperor 
and perpetual defender; the country became quiet; commerce 
flourished ; emigration increased ; good faith was restored ; and 
every thing seemed to promise a bright and prosperous future. 

Unfortunately, this state of things was not allowed to continue* 
A war broke out about this time, between Brazil and Buenos 
Ayres. The question in dispute was that tract of country bor-« 
dering on the La Plat^ and known by the name of Banda Oru 
ental. A war of three years was the consequence, which reduced 
and deranged the finances of the country, and added nothing to th0 
credit of the BraziUan arms ; but, on the contrary, had the ten-« 
dency to betray her weakjiess, and the folly of her ruler. Fi-* 
naUy, the war was terminated by a treaty, declaring the Banda 
Oriental an independent province for the term of five years, after 
which the inhabitants should be left free to unite with either of th6 
contending powers. 

This termination of the war displeased the Brazilians, and 
doubtless gave impulse to the dislike which at this time began to 
manifest itself towards the emperor. But no one could havd 
supposed that, in the short space of two years, Don Pedro would 
be compelled to abdicate his throne in favour of his infant 
son. Such, however, was the case. The ministry became unpop<* 
ular, and the emperor was requested to change it. This he re^ 
fused to do ; when the bold language was used, that ** the minis* 
try must be changed, or himself leave the throne.'^ 

It was now evident that the imperial days of Brazil were num-* 
bered ; and as he daily saw the royal authority falling into dilre- 
pute, he determined to abdicate the throne in favour q£ his infant 
son, only five years of age. This happened in the year 1831; and 
he immediately embarked in an English seventy-four, bearing with 
him the whole resources of the treasury, and all the moveable 
wealth of the coimtry, together with the hatred and curses of hii 
former subjects* 



50 #OTAOE OF THE POTOMAC. [OctobcTy 

For several months after his departure, the country was in a 
most unsettled state. Conunerce came to a stand; confidence 
was again destroyed ; revolts took place daily ; and quiet and se- 
curity seemed banished firom the land. The regency was put into 
the hands of General Lima and the Marquis of Barbecina, while 
great efforts were made for the restoration of peace and tranquil- 
lity. A new form of government was again discussed ; and, after 
some time, public affairs seemed gradually to assume a more fa- 
vourable appearanrft. 

Still, however, at the period of the Potomac's arrival at Rio, the 
Brazilian government could not be said to be in a settled or tran- 
quil condition, and many disorders in the state seemed to threaten 
other and still greater changes. But a short time had elapsed 
since a number of convicts joined with a party of disbanded sol- 
diers, to the number of about three hundred, the greater part 
of whom were negroes. This rabble had the temerity to fire 
upon the city, from a small island of which they had obtained 
possession, and directed their shots from six and nine pounders 
towards the palace square, to the manifest annoyance of those 
loyal subjects of the empire who were promenading very lei- 
surely this beautiful area. A volunteer corps was soon formed, 
consisting principally of citizens, by whom the insurgents' works 
were stormed^ and the greater part of them made prisoners. 

A national, guard of citizens, of about five thousand men, has 
been recently formed. They have an appropriate uniform, and 
nothing was more conmion than to see respectable citizens doing 
the duty of vigilant sentinels at the numerous posts throughout 
the city — ^marching and countermarching, and suffering a fatigue 
which evinced how much they were ready to encounter before 
they would again submit to the yoke which Don Pedro had so 
very obligingly taken under his arm, and with which he had 
departed. 

tiberal principles are certainly on a rapid advance in Brazil ; 
and bigoted opinions, both m politics and religion, which have been 
handed down from their forefathers, and which are inseparable 
firom despotism, are being fast exploded from among the laity. The 
clergy, as before intimated, are far behind the age they live in, as 
respects moral or scientific improvement. They were originally 
lent over here for the avowed object of converting the native In- 



183L] KIO BB JANEUie* <f dl 

dians to the Christian faith ; and for this purpose they have been 
plentifully provided with churches, convents, and colleges, all am- 
ply endowed by the government of the mother country from 
coffers which were supplied from the colony itself ; the bowels 
of whose territory were teeming vnth treasures, which they were 
forbid to touch on pain of death. But whatever might have been 
the zeal and fidelity of their predecessors, a portion of the mem- 
bers of the clerical body now resident at Rio, evidently prefer the 
ease and luxury of a monastic Ufe, to the labours and privations 
attending the office of a missionary. If K native should come to 
them and pay for a prayer or a shrift, he would no doubt be ac- 
conunodated. But they have no idea of carrying out such pre- 
cious goods to scatter gratis in the wilderness ! 

In alluding to the subject in a foitner part of this chapter. We 
intimated that they often winked at transgressions of the lower 
orders, most of whom are said to be very revengeful^ As an 
illustration of that remark, we shall here record the following 
incident which occurred at Rio, and was related to us by an eye- 
witness of the facts. A murder was committed imder circum- 
stances pecuharly aggravating. The assassiriy closely pursued by 
the relatives of the deceased and the officers of justice, sought 
shelter frt)m the threatening arm of the civil law beneath what 
proved, at least in this instance, the more powerful arm of the eccle- 
siastical law. Having attained the sanctuary which is ever found 
beneath the vaulted roof of a religious edifice, the murderer, his 
hands still reeking with blood, kneeled and most piously invoked 
the protection of the saint to whom the church had been' dedi- 
cated. As a matter of superstition, the pursuit was abandoned 
for the moment ; which allowed the culprit time to make his es- 
cape, after paying the priest, the immediate representative and 
accounting agent of the saint to whom the church belonged, 
the amount exacted for his protection, and the preservation of 
his Ufe. 

Indeed, the influence which such drones in the community ex- 
ercise over the poorer orders of the flock, is almost incredible. 
Their deceptions and religious exactions, and the ingenious meth- 
ods frequently adopted to carry on their systems of extortion, are 
often amusing, and always instructive, as affording to the curious 
sufficient data, within a very short compass, from which to draw a 

d2 



62 TOTAGB or THE POTOMAC. [OctobOT, 

£ur estimate of the true moral and religious .condition of this por- 
tion of the conmimiity. 

We cannot refrain from recomiting one of these scenes, which 
took place in the same city. Walking with a friend, in rather a 
remote part of the town, our attention was attracted by the ap* 
proach of two clerical personages. One of them was seated on 
a fine chaigor, that would not have disgraced the rich valleys 
of Andalusia, and the other on a sleek mule ! And yet they were 
both mendicants, as could readily be perceived from the baskets 
of the one, and the alforjas (saddle-'bagi^) of the other. As they 
approached leisurely along, keeping a ''bright lookout" on either 
side, we asked an old woman, who was seated near the door 
of her humble ranchOy who they were ? " Signiors,'* said she, 
** they are of the church of St. Augustine, dispensing grace to 
poor sinners.'' They had by this time passed us at a short dis- 
tance, and we began to despair of witnessing any of this singular 
dispensation. Just as they approached the termination of the 
street, we saw a woman, about the middle age, rush from her 
hovel, nearly opposite to where we were, standing and calling out 
to them vehemently, '' Stop! stop ! and give me a little grace r 

The horse and mule weie brought to a stand, while we followed 
close to the woman, who now approached the man on horseback, 
hurrying along with her a child of perhaps ten years of age, sal- 
low, and evidently in extremely bad health. We now saw that 
within the basket was a waxen image of the Virgin, having in her 
arms another waxen image of the infant Saviour. 

The poor woman insisted upon having some grace, " without 
m(mey and without price," for the benefit of her sick child, in 
consideration of not having a single copper, and having never 
failed to pay the priest, for whom he viras selling grace, punctually 
for confessing her. He was, however, inexorable ; and would 
have gone off had the poor woman not in\plored him to wait for 
another moment, to see if she could procure any thing with 
which to buy a little grace for her sick child ; and stepping into a 
neighbouring hut, returned with a single egg. When the egg 
was deposited in the basket, in despite of frowning, we took a 
look within, where were to be seen, carefrilly deposited in then- 
proper places, some fowls ready for the spit, eggs, vegetables, 
ice. Ail was fish, it appeared, which came to this net. The 



1831.] UO Dl JANBIBO. 68 

child was raised up, and imprinled upon the feet of the saint a 
feeble kiss; and the saintly one mored on, seeking farther 
" whom he might deyour." 

We felt for a moment as though we could have cut off the fel« 
low's ears, together with those of his employer ; and he looked 
at us as if he could have willingly served us in the same manner. 

There may be those who will deem the relation of this in* 
cident an attack on the Roman Catholic religion; but, gentle 
reader, it^is not so intended ; no, not even as we find that religion 
in the Brazilian empire. We have travelled some in Catholic 
countries, and shall have something to say on the moral and reli- 
gious condition of these countries in another place, perhaps in 
another volume. We shall state abuses where we have seen 
them, fearlessly, independently ; but, if we shall trace the causes 
of these abuses to sources different from many writers, it is be- 
cause we have seen differently. Yet in these days, even the 
abuses of religion cannot always be adverted to with safety, or 
its professors named, unless it be indiscriminately to praise. Of 
this timeserving timidity we have none ; believing that there is 
much truth in the appropriate language of the poet who has 
said — 

'* All hail, religion ! maid dmne, 
Pardon a muae ao mean aa mine, 
Who, in hia rough, imperfect line, 

Thus dares to name thee ; 
To stigmatize false friends of thine. 

Can ne^er deftme thee.** 

On no subject have we heard such contrariety of opinions, aif in 
relation to the population of Rio; the various estimates not 
agreeing vnth each other by one hundred thousand. We vriH 
also give our opinion. The city of Rio has been divided into 
seven parishes ; and it has, of late, been ascertained with con- 
siderable accuracy that each of these sections contains, on an 
average, twenty thousand inhabitants, giving an aggregate of one 
hundred and forty thousand souls ; and allowing for slaves whose 
masters did not give them in, from fear of taxation or some other 
motive, we may say, with the utmost confidence, that Rio does 
not contain less than the number just stated, nor more than one 
hundred and sixty thousand inhabitants. 



I 

• » 



64 VOYAGE OF THE POTOMAC. [Oclobcr, 

Whatever may be the condition of the slaves in the interior 
provinces of Brazil, they do not seem in general to be cruelly 
treated in Rio, and we saw but few instances in which they seemed 
to be overworked. In fact, from our own -observations we are 
inclined to believe^ that the Brazilian slaves, generally speaking, 
need not wish WBtchange places with those of any other country 
in the world. The master requires of them only four days' labour 
in the week-; en the other two workingdays they must labour 
for themsetves^to earn their own food and raiment for the week; 
'and 80 little do the latter cost, that in the course of a few years 
they firequently lay by a sufficient sum to purchase their own 
fireedom* • The- human frame feels fewer wants, and consequently 
is not exposed to so many evils, in a warm as in a cold climate. 
The general abundance of fruits within the tropics, and the 
limited necessity for clothes and winter quarters, tend greatly to 
ameliorate the condition of slaves in warm countries like Brazil. 
In and about Rio, they appear to be cheerful and happy. 

Previous to taking leave of Brazil for the present (as our 
lecQod visit to Rio will be found in a subsequent part of this nar- 
rative), it may be expected that we should say something of the 
natural productions of this part of South America. In doing so, 
we shall at this time confine ourselves to such only as came under 
our own inunediate observation. Almost every traveller has so 
enlarged upon this theme, that there is little of novelty to be ex- 
hibited. 

Among the most useful vegetable productions which a benefi- 
cent Providence has wisely caused to abound in every tropical 
region, are the banana, the plantain, the cocoanut, and the bread- 
fruit-tree. The three last named are, perhaps, more peculiar to 
the islands of the Pacific than to either continent ; but the first is 
unquestionably the m( «t useful and important production of 
Brazil. A single banana daily, has been known to sustain the 
life of an individual fcMr months. The fruit is from ten to twelve 
inches in length, ana about two in diameter; at first green, and 
afterward of a pale yellow. They are generally cut for use 
before they are fully ripe ; the green envelope is then peeled off, 
end the fruit roasted, forming an excellent substitute for bread. 
The negroes live almost entirely upon them, and they likewise 
ifrve to fatten all domestic animals. Every part of the tree, 



1831.] RIO DB JANEIRO. 55 

which grows to the height of from fifteen to twenty feet, is converted 
to some useful purpose ; fans, for instance, being made of the 
leaves. There are two kinds of this firuit cultivated at Rio ; one 
small and sweet, the other somewhat larger, and of coarser 
grains. The tree bears in a few months after being planted ; 
and, as before intimated, the quantity of nutriment in the firuit is 
very considerable. 

Next to this, in quaUty, quantity, and impostance, is the 
Brazilian orange, of which there are several varieties ; and the 
orchards or groves in which they are cultivated are replete with 
beauty and redolent of firagrance. Pineapples, in their season, 
are extremely plentiful. The custard-apple, the guava, the firuit 
of the passion-dower, and the rich pulpy tamarind, are also very 
abundant, and of delicious flavour. The cashewnut, so well 
known in Jamaica and Barbadoes, abounds in Brazil, and yields 
a juice which is easily . converted into a pleasant wine. The 
cocoanut-tree, which flourishes luxuriantly on the very margin pf 
the sea, often exceeds the height of fifty feet, vrith leaves or 
branches from twelve to fourteen feet in length. Its fruit is de- 
licious, and too well known to require a description. Besides 
these just enumerated, are melons of all kinds, mangoes, and 
many difierent species of northern firuits, which are cultivated 
with much success. Cabbages, yams, sweet potatoes, brinjals, 
peas, and cucumbers, are plentiful, and grow very rapidly. 

In addition to these, wheat, barley, guinea-coni, millet, rice, 
cofiee, sugar, manhiot, pepper, honey, wax, tobacco, cotton, and 
hemp, may be raised in any quantity, and of superior quality. 
Of die-stufis, there are logwood, redwood, fustic, indigo, cochin- 
eal, and a variety of others ; and of drugs, Peruvian bark, jalap, 
ipecacuanha, the Palma Christi, &c. In short, medical and 
odoriferous shrubs are without number. Timber of the fipe'st 
quality, suitable for civil or naval architecture, is apparently inex- 
haustible. Satinwood, rosewood, and several other precious 
sorts, suitable for ornamental cabinet-work, are foimd in all the 
forests. Flowers of the most beautiful teints and delicious fra- 
grance, surround the traveller on every side, whether he be on the 
open plain or the mountain — in the secludei^vale, or beneath the 
umbrageous canopy of the forest. In one word, the vegetable 
riches of Brazil are; perhaps, miequalled in any section of ibt 



«. 



M VOYAGE OF THE POTOMAC. [October, 

^obe ; and though they cannot, of course^ claim the same in- 
trinsic value, they are infinitely more various, more beautiful to 
the eye, and of more real utiUty to the nationi than the glittering 
productions of boasted mines. — 

" Let her the golden mine despise, 
For deep in earth it better lies, 
Than ^n^n, by hands profan'd, from nature's store, 
To hnman nse compell'd, flames forth the sacred ore." 

Of natural productions in the animal kingdom, Brazil can 
doubtless boast her share, though of far less variety than is found 
on the opposite continent. Their horses are mostly brought from 
the south, descendants of the wild herds which roam in a state of 
mirestrained freedom over the extensive pampas or prairies of 
Argentine and Patagonia. The original stock, it is said, was 
brought from Europe, at an early period of the discovery, to- 
gether with that of the black cattle which now overrun the more 
southern regions of the continent. Among the wild animals, the 
largest is probably the t(q>ir, or land hippopotamus ; but the most 
formidable is the jaguar, or South American tiger, which seldom, 
however, approaches the haunts of man. Sloths and wild dogs 
are numerous, besides several species of quadrupeds that burrow 
in the earth. Among the latter is the seven-ianded armadillo, a 
curiouR little animal, well known in all our museums, and other 
depositories of natuml -history y having the snout of a pig, the tail 
of a lizard, and the feet of a hedgehog. He is armed with a coat 
of impenetrable scales, burrows in the earth during the daytime, 
end sometimes grows to the length of three feet. The BraziUans 
use it as an article of food, the flesh being white, tender, and well 
tasted. Bats are numerous, of a large size, and very sanguinary. 
The blood of cattle is their favourite food, on which, at night, 
they take the liberty to banquet, without invitation or license. 

Of the feathered tribe, Brazil can count great numbers, and 
many varieties. The great imperial condor of Peru is some- 
times seen descending on her plains, to prey upon the fragments 
of the jaguar's meal, or to bear away some living quadruped to. 
his aerial retreat on the highest pinnacle of the Andes. The 
royal £agle, and the bandit vulture, make similar and more fre- 
quent incursions ; while fowls and birds of variOuit descriptions 



1831.] RIO DB JAMBIRO. 6? 

pursue their instinctiye habits as nature dictates. The smaller 
tribes are numerous, and are more distinguished for brilUancy of 
plumage than fpr sweetness of melody. Many varieties of par- 
rots and paroquets are found in the woods, and the orange gar« 
dens are peopled with hummingbirds. 

Of reptiles and insects peculiar to Brazil, the enumeration 
would be endless. Venomous snakes, together with toads and 
spiders of enormous magnitude, exist in formidable numbers ; as 
also do scorpions, centipedes, scalopendras, dec. But the great* 
est pest of all is the ant, whose numbers are literally infinite, and 
whose depredations are so serious, that Tillages' and hamlets have 
been nearly undermined by them. Mosquitoes, as we have seen 
and felt, are also numerous, and intolerably annoying ; but the 
butterflies are belutiful beyond description, and of great variety. 

With titese brief, excursive, and somewhat desultory remarks, 
we vrill now return to the Potomac, on whose busy decks every 
preparation was on foot for resuming her course to the ''far east." 
Wood, water, and other requisites for so long a voyage, were daily 
being received on board, where every thing presented diligence, 
activity, and order. 

Nearly a fortnight had elapsed since the Potomac first came to 
anchor in the harbour of Rio, when her officers, in return for the 
civilities which they had received firom a nimiber of ladies and 
gentlemen on shore, determined to get up a fite for their enter- 
tainment on board the fiigate. During her passage firom New- 
York, some encouragement had been given to the men in favour 
of forming a small Thespian corps, which might afibrd occasional 
amusement during the long cruise of circumnavigating the globe, 
To many, it might appear difficult to procure proper materials for 
such a company among a crew of hardy sailors. But such is not 
the fact. On board of a man-of-war of the size of the Potomac, 
there are perhaps more men of different avocations, than in any 
village of even twice the nimiber of inhabitants. Indeed, when 
we consider that the crew of such a ship is mostly composed 
of persons who, fi-om desperate circumstances, a roving inclina- 
tion, or from a desire to see the wo}[ld, as they term it, enlist in 
such an expedition, it is not to be wondered that they comprise 
men of almost every attainment. The pro^sion of an actor is 
always one of doubtful success. Even with the most gifted 



y 



% 






♦?• 



'4. '. 



69 . yoTAOE OF THB POTOMAC. [October, 



genius, years of toil and repeated efforts are necessary to attain 
eminence* In the many attempts some must fail, and are 
thrown out of the rocation by dissipation, and find themselves 
from n^essity on board a man-of-war. On board the Potomac 
there were one or two rather above mediocrity ; who, being well 
qualified to take the management, as a matter of course, entered 
into the subject with great spirit. 

On Saturday, the twenty-ninth of October, the theatre was 
rigged on the quarterdeck, and invitations were sent on shore, to 
the ladies and gentlemen with whom the officers had become 
acquainted ; and, among tiiese, several natives of the country. 
The piece selected for the evening had been frequently rehearsed ; 
and, as the peiformers improved and acquired confidence in every 
new attempt, it was hoped that the evening's amusement would 
pass off well. At eight o'clock, the deck was throngadl with the 
officers of the Warren and Lexington, the former having just ar- 
rived. It was indeed pleasant to meet thus, on a foreign station, 
so many acquaintances and former shipmates ; and memory, ac- 
tive in the reminiscences of other days and bygone times, brought 
up incidents again to be talked over and enjoyed anew. 

But our brightest anticipations are often subject to disappoint- 
ment, and t}ie sunny smile of beauty was doomed to be lacking 
on this occasion. The weather suddenly changed, the heavens 
became overcast, and the prospect of the attendance of the ladies 
frt)m on shore every moment grew more faint. The perform- 
ance was finally opened without them ; but still it contributed 
greatly to the amusement of all who were present. 

Matters, however, were not allowed to terminate thus. Another 
evening was set apart for the purpose ; the theatre was again 
opened ; and all who had not been able to attend on the preceding 
evening, were now present. The performance went off with 
spirit ; a dance followed, and the ladies and gentlemen from the 
city seemed much pleased with their visit on board, and the enter- 
tainments prepared for the occasion. But the time had now come 
for the Potomac to depart, and pursue the objects of her destination. 



«t 



Her massiye anchors, near this Eden land, 

For twenty days had bit the golden sand ; 

But dnty calls, new perils to endare, 

And the hoarse boatswain pipe»— * All ktmdt, unmoor P " 



^ u 



« 



1831.] DEPAETURB FROM RIO. . H. M 



^ 



CHAPTER IV. 

Departure from Rio Janeiitv— Glorious Sunset at Sea— A white Squall— A Maa 
Oveiboard — ^A narrow Escape — Cape of Good Hope — ^Arrival of the Potomac at 
Oi^e-Town— Table Bay, with SaHing Diiectibna— First Diacovmy of the Cap« 
by Diaz — Origin of the Colony — Description of the Town — State of the Preas, 
Literature, and Education— ^Climate, Clouds, and Vapours. 

On Saturday, the fifth of November, the stores of the Potomac 
having been completely replenished, and time not permitting 
longer delay, orders were given to get under way early in the 
morning. The anchor>was weighed at daylight; but as the 
breeze continued light and baffling, the harbour was not cleared 
until late in the forenoon. 

In addition to the boats of the Potomac, which were sent 
ahead to tow the ship, others firom the several men-of-war in the 
harbour were sent to proffer their assistance ; and among these, 
one from his Britannic Majesty's firigate Druid. Her commander, 
Captain Hamilton, has been long known in naval life, in which ' 
he ranks high for nautical skill, and for his urbanity of manners 
and gentlemanly deportment. 

The bows of the Potomac were now laid close to the wind, to 
the east ; and conjecture, even among the crew, as to her desti- 
nation, seemed at an end. The Cape of Good Hope, Sumatra, 
East Indies, and round the world, to South America, were in the 
mouth of every one ; while the prospect of passing through new 
scenes, and encountering new adventures, a little out of the beaten 
track, gave rise to feelings which seemed to pervade and animate 
all on board. 

A passage from Rio Janeiro to the Cape of GkK>d Hope, how- 
everj over a track of ocean which has for centuries been the 
common highway of nations, cannot be expected to abound with 
novelty or interest. The logbook tells of continued headwinds 
— irregular head and cross seas — and, south of latitude 29*, of 
falling in with whale-ships, and every day encountering the right, 
or black whale, so called in contradistinction to the spermaceti 
whale, which is so much more highl^f prized, on account of its 



;■ • 



CD TOTAOS jo^ THB Tovoukc- [NoTember. 

yielding the valuable article from which its name is derived. BuU 
80 changeable are the acenes of a sailor's life, so fickle and 
treadlerDus the elements above and beneath him, that even this 
passage was not without its soul-touching and heart-thrilling inci- 
dentj^ embracing in their extremes, and in the highest possible 
degitse, the essential qualities of the beautiful and the sublime. 

There are but few, perhaps, who have not experienced wad felt 
the charms of evening, as the last golden beams of the setting 
sun ca!st a milder glow of mellowing light and shade on all 
around. It is not romance : — ^there is a high-wrought sympathy 
— a pure and holy fedling, which often passes over the mind 
in contemplation of such a scene. We had enjoyed it on 
shore ; but never dreamed that thfi ocean-tossed mariner was 
favoured with auf^t so lovely. It was an evening when the 
troubled waters of the ocean had not wholly subsided from the 
effects produced by a heavy blow of several days. The sun was 
slowly declining in the west, making his passage through numer- 
ous silvery and golden clouds, which threw upon a bank of other 
dark vapours which were still hovering in the east, an appearance 
not unlike billows of fibre, undulating like the sea beneath them. 

** The son's bri|^t oib, declinmg all amne, 
Now glinced obliquely o*er the wttery ecene : 
Its heaying surface, loyely to behold. 
Glows in the west, a sea of living gold.*' 

Falconsb. 

To the n(«th and to the south rose masses of beautiful clouds 
of snowy whiteness, whose upper edges were tinged with gold ; 
these changing into every form above, while the dark red tinge 
upon the water, or sparkling sea beneath, presented, altogether, a 
picture so beautiful, that language has not power to describe it ; 
nor could the pencil command sufficiently varied colours, though 
dipped in the teints of the rainbow, and touched by tUe hand of a 
Raphael, to delineate the scene, or impart its beauties to the 
glowing canvass. None will call this language too strong except 
such as have not seen, and of course cannot appreciate, the 
grandeur of ocean's landscape, upon which the oldest and roughest 
sailor cannot look without a brighter countenance, and a silent but 
heartfelt acknowledgment of that Being " who stretcheth out the 
fibnament, and hold&th thd ocean in the hollow of his hand i'^ 



]831.] * vroRM atJ^. .6^ 

In approaching the Cape of Good Hope, bat more £requendy 
to the south and east of that promonto^ navifitors haT« often to 
encounter storms from the northward, Which ratge with gram vio- 
lence. With these winds, the sea always runs high, and one of 
the most dangerous features in the character of such gales, it the 
sudden, and often instantaneous, change which occurs froA' the 
wind breaking out, with equal or eWt tiugmented fury, from 
another and nearly opposite 'quarter. The experienced navigator 
of these seas, therefore, always keeps a bright lookout during the 
preralence of such gales, to the southwest. However strong the 
squall may be raging, however rough the sea may be rolling, or 
copiously the rain may be falling, yet, a bright spot in the west^ 
or southwe^, is a sure indication of a sudden change of wind. 

It was on Tuesday, the fifteenth of November, in latitude 34* 
south, and longitude 30* east. The morning opened with strong 
gales from the northwest, which increased in violence until the 
afternoon. Sail after sail was taken in, or reefed, until the Po* 
tomac wore little else than a storm dress. The sea was exceed- 
ingiyVliigh, rough, and unpleasant; and the ship roHed and 
laboured heavily. The white spot was aeen in the south, but 
experience alone could tell the power it contained. In an instant 
the gale from the north '* let go its hold ;" the little canvass that 
remained spread flapped loosely on the yards ; and, ere there wa» 
time for thought or action, a gale from the southwest struck the 
vessel with such power, and with a change so sudden, that it 
required the utmost exertion of professional skill to prepare her 
to meet the fierce encounter. 

" It comM restttleas, and with fotming fwcep 
Uptomt the wfait'ning surface of the deep ; 
In such a tempesti borne to deeds of death. 
The wayward sisters scour the blasted heath/' 

Faloonsb. 

The high and combing waves, running quick from the north-' 
east, thus met and arrested in their course by violent gusts frtnn 
the southwest, created upon the whole extent of the ocean's 
surface, at least as far as the eye could reach, sheets of flying 
foam, as the water was carried frt>m the cap of each rolMng 
billow in masses to leeward. This sudden encounter of tfa# 



6S voTAGS OF THE FovoMAc. [NoTcmbefi 

winds and the waves caused the latter to mount up into vast and 
moving pyramids of angry foam. 

It is in such a^moment as this that the profession of a sailor 
becoriiea really sublime ! It is a contest for mastery between the 
elaments and the intellectual daring of man ! At such a moment 
all hands are called ; and, fore and aft — from the fore, main, and 
mizzentops — each officer and sailor stands in deathUke silence, to 
receive and execute whatever orders the commander in a low and. 
subdued tone, through the officer of the deck, may see fit to give. 
He is the master-spirit whose coolness, experience, and intellec- 
tual energies alone can control the demon of the tempests 

** True to his trust, when sacred duty calls, 
No howling storm the mastefs soul appals." 

Falconek. 

On the present occasion, every requisite order had been given> 
and each of them had been executed with a prompt and fearless 
obedience. The gallant Potomac, recovering from the unexpected 
shock she had received in the sudden change of the wind, and 
raising herself with a graceful majesty from the sullen and infolun- 
tary obeisance which she had paid to the blast, began to obey the 
impulse of her helm, when the appalling and terrific cr^rof " a 
map overboard !" resounded fore and aft. 

The usual orders in such an emergency are — " Hard down the 
helm ! Cut away the Ufe-buoy ! and stand by to lower the life- 
boat !" which is always suspended from the ship's quarters, with 
suitable and appropriate lashings. But the commodore very 
properly hesitated to give such orders on the present occasion ; 
for it was but too evident that no boat could live, for a single mo- 
ment, among the turbulent billows which were beating round and 
climbing up the sides of the frigate. The feehng that pervades 
one at such a crisis is painfully intense ; — ^we know of no excite- 
ment on shore that can possibly be compared with it. It is in 
such emecgencies that the thorough-bred sailor e^bits traits of 
character which should cover a multitude of sins. The fury of 
the storm — ^the tempest-tost ocean — ^the certainty of death before 
them, could not restrain the generous impetuosity of the crew^ 
They had gathered en mas'se on the ship's quarter, with hands upon 
th% ratlins, ready to leap into the boats on either side, to rescue 
a shipmate from destruction, or share with him a watery grave* 



t 



1681.] CAn OF GOOB HOPS. 6d 

The suspense, which had now becoftie insufferable, was soon 
relicTed by the cheerful exclamation from the Inboard gangway, 
of " there he is ! there he is !" and the man wai borne aft as one 
snatched from the very portals of death. It appears thai jiib4ad 
been sent into the forechains, to clear the foresheet, as the stlddan 
change of wind came on ; and the ship rolling at the time very 
deep, he was washed from thence into the sea. Fortunately, he 
had done bis work so well, by overhauling the sheet, that a bite 
had fallen near the water ; so that when the ship rolled again 
towards him he succeeded in seizing it, and but a moment elapsed 
before the. welcome exclamation of "liere he is! here he is!** 
relieved the feelings of all. 

On the sixth of December, land was seen ; and, before night, 
made out to be Table Mountain. On the following day, after a 
passage of thirty-one days from Rio, the Potomac came safely to 
anchor at Cape Town, near the southern extremity of the African 
continent, which stretches out into the sea, as if to interrupt all 
frurther progress to the east. The breeze, which hid prcnnised an 
anchotage on the evening of the preceding day, had died away 
with the setting sun ; and during the night, the restless clouds 
flitting swiftly in different directions, indicated that the spirit of 
the tempest still resided in the neighbourhood of the cape. On 
the same afternoon salutes were exchanged between the Potomac 
and the fort on shore, and all hands seemed much delighted with 
their arrival once more in port. 

The peninsula of the Cape of Good Hope is a mountainous 
ridge, stretching nearly north and south for fifty or sixty miles, and 
connected on the east side, and near its northern extremity, with 
the main body of Africa, by a flat, sandy isthmus about ten miles 
broad, having Table Bay on the north of it, and False Bay on the 
south. The southern extremity of this pemnsula/ extending into 
the sea, with False Bay on the east, and the ocean on the south 
and west, is properly the " Cape of Good Hope," and is nearly 
the most southern point of Africa. We say nearly^ because after 
doubling the cape from the Atlantic, the coast is found io incline 
southeasterly for about one hundred miles, whea it suddenly 
changes to a northeasterly direction. The most southerly point 
of Africa is, therefore, a projection of the coast called Cape 
AguUus, extending a few leagues further into the Indian Ocean 



64 TOTAGE OF THE POTOMAC. [Deceiuberi 

tbaftdw Cape of Good Hope itself, being in latitude 34*" 40' south, 
longitude 18* 26' east; whereas the latter is in latitude 34* 20' 
south, longitude 20* 20' east. At this point, the chain of moun<* 
tains which forms the peninsula, though rugged, is lower than it is 

at the northern end, where it is terminated by Table Mountain 

/ 

and two others, which form an amphitheatre overlooking Table 
Bay, and opening at the north like the bay itself. The ridges of 
the mountains extending from the cape to the termination of the 
peninsula on the north vary in shape, but the most frequent forms 
incline more or less t6 sharp conical points. The three moun- 
tains that terminate the peninsula on the north are, the Table 
Mountain in the middle ; the Lion's Head, sometimes called the 
Sugarloaf, on the west side ; and the Devil's Peak on the east. 
The Lion's Head, which is about 2160 feet above the level of the 
sea, is separated from Table Mountain by a valley that descends 
to the depth of 1600 or 2000 feet below the summit of Table 
Mountain, which is itself 3582 feet above the level of the sea. 
On the west of the Lion's Head there is a lower eminence, named 
the Lion's Rump, 1 142 feet high, from which the ground grad- 
ually declines to the sea. ^ The amphitheatre formed by these 
three mountains is about five or six miles in diameter, in the 
centre of which is placed Cape Town, before which the gallant 
Potomac now lay safely moored, sheltered from e^ery annoying 
blast that might, at this season of the year, threaten to disturb the 
placidity of her repose. Between May and October, this remark 
would not be applicable. 

On the arrival of vessels in Table Bay, as in most other places, 
a proper anchorage is pointed out for them by the captain of the 
port. When discharging their cargoes, they are to be moored as 
near the jetty as safety will permit. Vessels touching for refresh- 
ments are allowed to ride at single anchor, with a long scope of 
ninety fathoms of chain, as they run less risk of parting or fouling. 
It is recommended that ships be kept as snug as possible, to 
counteract the effect of periodical winds, which at times blow 
with considerable violence. Too much praise cannot be be- 
itowed upon the local authorities for the vnse measures they have 
adopted to counteract the occasional violence of the winds, sudden 
and destructive in their effects. Certain signals have been adopted 
by the postoffice, from whidi vetseU in port may receive timely 



1831.] tkPB 01' GOOD HOlhi. ^ 

warning of the approach of winds, as indicated by the baraneter ; 
and long and careful observations and expe^ence have left no 
room to doubt the correctness of these observations. 

Though these regulations, in a commercial point of view, 
cannot be of much moment to us, yet they are interesting ;• and 
as our vessels are in all seas and climes^ chance may render them 
valuable to our own flag. 

While in Table Bay, all vessels are strongly enjoined to observe 
the following signals from the postoffice, founded on unerring 
barometrical objservations : — 

** Union Jack, over white pierced blue, — Veer to a whole cable. 

" Union Jack, over blue white, blue, — Strike lower yards and 
topmasts^ and rig injibboom.^ 

Through the same office, it is arranged, that vessels can mak^ 
their wants known in rough and stormy' weather; when any as- 
sistance required will be strictly attended to, so far as is practica* 
ble. A vessel not supphed with Maryott's code of signals, may 
communicate in the following manner with her ensign : — 

** 1st. Ensign in the foretopmast rigging,—/ am in want of 
a cable. 

'' 2d. Ensign in the maintopmast rigging, — 1 am in want of an 
anchor. 

"3d. Ensign in fore rigging,—/ have parted a bower cable. 

" 4th. Ensign in main rigging, — / am in want of cable and 
anchor. 

" 5th. White, where best seen, — / am in want of a boat.^ 

To enter Table Bay at night, from the north, and meaning to 
pass north of Robben Island, a ship should keep the light easU 
ward of south nine degrees east, or about south-by-east, until she 
gets soundings under twenty fathoms, at a little more than a mile 
from the hghthouse. She may then steer E. S. E., or E. by S., 
not to come under ten fathoms, until the light bears W. S. W. 
She may then steer for the anchorage, and anchor as soon as the 
lights are shutting in behind the Lion's Tail. This track leads 
almost a mile clear of danger, on Green Point ; but a ship need not 
approach so near, if she have, by seeing Robben Island, ascer- 
tained by its bearings that she is clear of rocks, in which case 
she may round it at a greater distance from Green Point if desira^ 
ble, but the soundings inthat case veill not be a safe gmde. 



66 voTAGE OF THE POTOMAC. [December, 

In coming from the southwest, a ship should not get less than 
forty fathoms before the light bears- southeast, or east-southeast, 
nor less than twenty fathoms before it bears south-by-east ; when 
the preceding directions may be followed. From the north, inside 
of Robben Island, the light should be kept 'about southwest-by- 
south, until the ship has passed that island, in doing which she may 
have in some cases from six to eight fathoms ; and when on that 
course the water deepens to eleven or twelve fathoms, she may 
steer for the anchorage by the plan as before stated. 

On beating around Green Point, a ship should never shoal her 
water under eleven or twelve fathoms, imtil she has brought the 
light to bear west-southwest, as before directed. 

In beating between Robben Island and the main, to enter Table 
Bay, the soimdings may be taken from the island, as it shoals very 
regularly. In standing towards the main, it appears prudent to 
look at the first cast of the lead after the water shoals, and in 
all cases it is taken for granted that a vessel will keep her lead 
agoing. By day, or when the shore or surf can be seen, or indeed 
under any circumstances, the plan ought to be a sufficient guide. 

Europe was totally unacquainted with this country, and even 
ignorant of its existence, anterior to the year 1493, when it was 
discovered by Bartholomew Diaz, a Portuguese navigator, who, 
under the inunediate auspices of his sovereign, John II., had ex- 
tended the Portuguese discoveries along the whole western coast 
of Africa. When near the southern extremity of the continent, 
he was driven out of sight of land, and hurried by a violent storm 
far into the Indian Ocean. The Portuguese sailors now gave 
themselves up as lost, while for thirteen days they were buffeted 
about by the relentless tempest. After being partially acclimated 
to the sultry gales of Africa, they found the damp cold blast of the 
Antarctic seas almost intolerably severe. When the storm abated, 
ignorant of their real situation, they steered eastward to regain 
the coast from which they had been driven, but nothing but the 
unbounded ocean was to be seen. Surprised and bewildered, they 
steered to the north, and finally made a point of Africa, consider- 
ably to the eastward of that which we now call the Cape of Good 
Hope. As numerous herds were seen feeding on the shore, Diaz 
called his new discovery " the Bay of Cows." He then steered 
westward until he came to a small island, on which he planted a 



1831.) CAPB OF GOOD ROPB. 87 

piQar, as he had previously done on the western coast of the same 
eontment, for an ensign of the Portuguese dominion. 

A: general murmur, however, amounting to a mutinous move- 
ment, now arose among his exhausted and dispirited crew. They 
lU'ged that they had aLready discovered enough of land for one 
voyage, that their vessel was shattered, and their'provisions draw- 
ing to a close ; in a word, they positively insisted on returning 
home. Diaz called a council of his officers, who all concurred 
in the wishes of Uie men ; so that the enterprising and indefatiga- 
ble navigator was here compelled to relinquish a still brighter 
chaplet than he had already acquired; one which was in full 
view, and almost within his reach. He yielded, it is said, with 
deep reluctance^ and parted with the island where he had planted 
his last ensign^ '' as a father parts from an exiled son." In re- 
gaining the Atlantic, they for the first lime doubled, in full view, 
the long sought-for cape or promontory, to which Diaz, tortured 
by his feeUngs of mortification and chagrin, gave the name of 
" Cobas totas Tormentas^^ — "the Cape of all Torments ;" but his 
joyful sovereign, on his return to Portugal, inspired with a well- 
grounded hope that the long sought-for passage to India was at 
length discovered, changed the appellation to that which it now 
bears, the " Cape of Good Hope." In 1497 this hope was fully 
realized by Vasco de Gama, another Portuguese discoverer, who 
doubled the cape, and explored his way to India, landing at Colicut 
on the twenty-second of May in the following year. 

A pathway for all jiations was now opened to the " land of 
promise," whose precious merchandise soon began to be poured 
into the lap of every European country with profuse abundance. 
But notwithstanding their constant passing and repassing the 
Cape of Good Hope, its admirable locality for furnishing refresh- 
ments, and the inviting aspect of the country, none conceived the 
idea of planting a civilized colony among its sable native residents. 
But in 1650, one hundred and fifty-seven years after its first dis- 
covery. Van Riebeck, a surgeon of one of the. Dutch East India 
Company's ships, pointed out to the directors the great advantages 
which would be derived from establishing a settlement on the 
southern extremity of Africa, and they listened to the suggestion. 
In two years afterward his views were carried into effect, and he 
himself appointed governor of the new colony. From thattimft^ 

e2 









88 YOYAGK OF THE POTOMAC. [December^ 

to the year 1795, it remained in the handa of the Dutch, gradually 
improving. In the meantime, the English possessions in the east 
bad greatly increased ; and John Bull had not passed so often 
round the cape without casting a. wishful eye on this thriving 
estabUshment, which he thought might answer so well to refresh 
his vessels at* In 1795, the state of Europe and the fortunes of 
war gave him the power ; and as he is an old gentleman who is 
not remarkable for being over fastidious in respecting the rights 
of his neighbours, and having just suffered the loss of his best 
transatlantic dependances, he proceeded to take possession of the 
colony of the Cape of Good Hope ; and it has, with the exception 
of a few years (during which the Dutch held it under the treaty 
of Amiens), remained in the hands of the British, much to the dis- 
content of the descendants of the old governor, Pietr Van Roode 
Van Oudtshoom. « 

Cape Town itself is beautifully situated on a plain, and is over- 
shadowed by a stupendous rock or mountain.* The streets are 
spacious,' and intersect each other at right angles with great ex- 
actness. The houses are nM)stly of stone, and whitewashed with- 
out, which gives them a neat and cleanly appearance ; there are 
few built over two stories, on accoimt of the winds, which blow 
sometimes excessively strong. The residence of the governor, and 
the public buildings, are suitable to the purposes for which they 
are used, but possess nothing which deserves particular descrip- 
tion. The public square presents a neat appearance, and is kept 
in fine order ; and there are some pleasant promenades in the en- 
virons, tastefully overshadowed with spreading branches of oak. 

The progress of literature at Cape Town is very promising, 
and the- cause of education has numerous and powerful adherents. 
A newspaper, called the South African Commercial Advertiser^ 
has been established for several years, and is said to be well sup- 
ported, notwithstanding all the obstacles thrown in its way by the 
jealousy and cupidity of the Dutch residents. It has uniformly 
and strenuously advocated the cause of ameliorating the condition 

* The rocks of which this peninsula is composed are few in nomber and of simple 
stmcture. They are granite, ^eiss, clay-slate, graywacke, quartz-rock, sandstone, 
and dolerite. Of these the most abundant are granite and sandstone : the next in 
frequency are graywacke and clay-slate ; and the least frequent are gneiss and dolerite. 
la Miae plaees^the sandstoiie is travened by veins of i^ iion ora. 



1831.] CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 69 '\\ 

of the slaves, as respects their food, clothing, hours of labour 
punishment, marriages, &c. This was wormwood to the Dutch, 
who consider their slaves in the same Ught as dome teamsters do 
their horses : — " If there be any work in the animal," say they, 
" we must bring out our money's worth by the lash of the whip.* 
They therefore convened a meeting, and passed resolutions to de- 
nounce the Commercial Advertiser^ as un^Torthy their patronage 
and support ; and, as a joint-stock company, to establish an oppo* 
sition paper, called the Zuid Afrikam^ which maintains a policy 
diametrically opposed to that advocated by the other. Whether 
this competition of clashing interests is calculated to produce 
beneficial effects^ is a question that time will determine. There 
is also another periodical published here, called the Literary 
Gazette^ which is said to be entitled to no inconsiderable share of 
praise for the liberaUty of its doctrihes, and the literary merit of 
its original articles. 

The public library is an honour to the colony, having, in the 
course of five or six years, increased in books and subscribers 
until it has attained to a degree of prosperity unrivalled in any 
colonial annals. Its shelves present a brilhant display of the best 
works on all subjects and in divers languages. The librarian, 
who is also secretary to the institution, and the editor of the Lit^ 
erary Gazette^ is distinguished for his affable deportment, urbanity 
of manners, and polite attention to visiters. A museum has also 
been established, which is rich in specimens of natural history, 
especially in those branches of it which are so numerous in 
Southern Africa. A very large and interesting menagerie of wild 
beasts likewise, as we were informed, once existed in this place, 
and was a great object of attraction to strangers ; but it has since 
dwindled away to a " beggarly account of empty" cages, there 
being not at present half a dozen subjects in the enclosure. 

Two infant schools have been estabhshed here, which appear 
to be conducted on excellent principles, and meet a very general 
support Schools and academies for the higher branches are also 
in a flourishing condition. But the institution which merits the 
most attention, is the South African College^ which embraces all 
the advantages of an English seminary and university, — admitting 
pupils with the slightest possible preparation, and instructing them 
in the highest branches of science, and the widest range of liter* 



70 VOYAGE OF THE POTOMAC. [December^ 

aturc, at a trifling cost. Most of the professors are stated to be 
men of tlic first scientific attainments ; and many of the pupils 
have evinced a vigour of understanding and an extent of acquire* 
Hients which convey indubitable testimony of the value of the in- 
stitution. 

This college was founded on the first of October, 1829, having 
been in existence but a little more than two years when the Poto- 
mac arrived at the cape, at which period the number of pupils 
amounted to one hundred and fifty. The branches taught here, 
as we understand, are Hebrew, Greek, Latin, Dutch, English, 
writing, drawing, French, logic, rhetoric, mathematics, algebra, 
geometry, trigonometry, the principles of geography, and as- 
tronomy. The qualifications of a student for admission are, read-^ 
ing, writing, and a knowledge of the first rules of arithmetic. No 
distinction exists as to rank or religion. The building contains a 
number of spacious and airy apartments, extremely well adapted 
to the purpose of tuition. 

The climate of the cape is healthy, judging either firom the 
temperature, or firom the ruddy countenances of its inhabitants* 
From a meteorological journal kept for a number of years at the 
cape, the mean temperature of the year is 67^** Fahrenheit ; while 
the mean of the coldest month is 57°, and that of the hottest 79*. 
This temperature seems to vary but little in the other districts of 
the colony ; that of Stellenbosch gives the mean of one year 66% 
extremes 87° and 50°; while that of Zwartland appears to be 
66 J°, extremes 89° and 54°. At Zulbagh, situated in the valley of 
the great chain of mountains which divide the western firom the 
eastern provinces of the colony, the mean temperature of the year 
is 66 1°, that of the coldest month 55^°, of the hottest 80^°, ex- 
tremes 95° and 52° ; mean of their winter 56^°, of their sununer 
months 79°, least heat in summer 60°. Here, as in the south of 
Europe, and most warm climates of a temperate zone, the wind 
commonly blows cold in simmier, at the same time that the sun 
shines with great power ; and this is the circumstance which dis- 
tinguishes a warm firom a hot climate. 

At the foot of the cape mountains, and within the range of their 
influence, the heat of the atmosphere over the valleys and the 
plains is mitigated by a cool wind descending from die mountains, 
and the coldness of the blast is tempered by the reflected heat of 



^ . 



1^31.] CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 71 

the earth's surface. Hence a moderate temperature, where the 
wind has free progress, is the result in summer at the Cape of 
Good Hope. During the warm season, although the southeast 
monsoon predominates, westerly winds are not un&equent, and 
they are always moist ; when southeasterly winds blow, they bring 
from the shallow sea, over La Guillas' bank, humidity, which is 
condensed upon the summits of the mountains ; it is seen rolling 
down the western cliffs in volumes of thick yapour, and the eleva- 
tion at which this is dissipated, as it descends, answers precisely 
to the hygrometric state of the air. 

Few have visited the cape without having cause to admire the 
peculiarity of the clouds and vapours. The moimtain being colder 
than the plain below, condenses and renders visible tlfe passing 
vapour, whenever the dryness of the wind is less than the differ- 
ence of temperature between its smnmit and base. Owing to ra- 
diation, the influence of the mountain's smnmit extends to a colunm 
of air near it, and a cloud at rest is accordingly seen suspended 
high above, which, from its white fleecy appearance, is called the 
Table-cloth. The heat of the plain has a hke influence on the 
atmosphere over it, and affects the temperature inunediately above. 
The vapour there, as it quits the mountain, passes into a warmer 
region, when it is dissolved, and thus it traverses, transparent and 
invisible, to be again condensed and made apparent on approach- 
ing another mountain. This is a simple explanation of the ap- 
pearances which are so commonly seen during the continuance 
of the southeast wind at the cape. 

Volimies of vapour are seen rolling over the summit and down 
the sides of Hanglip, Hottentots, Holland, and the rest of the 
chain of high mountains ; while above the valleys and over the 
isthmus scarcely a passing cloud is seen. But the vapour is 
thickly condensed on the peninsular group of mountains, rolls 
over their- summits, descends to a certain distance down the cliff, 
and is dissipated and becomes transparent as it passes onwards. 
Clouds at rest, while the wind is blowing with violence, are fre- 
quently to be seen over Table Bay, and likewise over Cape Downs, 
precisely similar to clouds suspended over peaks. Generally 
during a southeast wind, the sky is clear on Hanglip and Table 
Mountains. 

But, now and then, a small silvery cloud suddenly appears 



72 VOYAGE OF THE POTOMAC. [December, 

above the sea, on the shore ; grows, changes shape without change 
of place (although the wind, meantime, continues to blow most 
violently), wastes, and vanishes. Dr. Amott, in his elements of 
physics or natural philosophy, thus accounts for the singular 
beauty and density of the clouds which frequently envelop Table 
Mountain : — " The reason of the phenomena is, that the air con*- 
stituting the wind from the southeast having passed over the vast 
Southern Ocean, comes charged with as much invisible moisture 
as the temperature can sustain. In rising up the sides of the 
mountain it is rising in the atmosphere, and is Uierefore gradually 
escaping from a part of the former pressure ; and on attaining the 
simunit, it has dilated so much, and has consequently become so 
much colder, that it has let go part of its moisture ; and it no 
sooner falls over the edge of the mountain, and again descends in 
the atmosphere, where it is pressed, and condensed, uid heated as 
before, than it is re-dissolved and disappears, the magnificent ap* 
parition dwelling only on the mountain top.** 



1831.J CAPS OF GOOD HOPE. 73 



CHAPTER V. 

Cape of Good Hope— ProgreM of the Colony — Cape District— Districts of Stellen- 
bosch, Worcester, Swellendam, George, Uitenhage, Albany, Somerset, and Graaf 
Ramet — Population Table — Imports and Exports — Judiciary Establishment — Post- 
office — Humane add Religious Institutions — Revenue, Military, 6lc, — ^The Caffree 
— Captain Stout's Character of them — ^The Hottentots— Progress of Education 
among them. 

The British colonial establishment at the Cape of Good Hope 
is rapidly improying, and is qgijjj^jestionably destined, at no very 
late period, to become of much nnportance to the mother country, 
and collaterally, to the commercial world. The settlements are 
rapidly extending towards the interior, there being no less than 
ten districts at this tim6 composing the colony. 

The Cape District has been much extended of late, embracing 
the Residency of Simon's Town. The north point of the district 
extends to Verlone Valley, one hundred and ninety miles from 
Cape Point, but in no part does the district exceed thirty miles in 
breadth. This district is divided into eleven divisions, one 
of which is Constantia, so celebrated for its wines. There are 
no streams which serve for irrigation, and the crops depend al- 
most wholly on the periodical rains. In this district there are 
several fine turnpike-roads, the tolls on which, in the year 1830, 
amoimted to 18632., while the repairs during the same period 
amounted to 1400Z. In this district is Saldanha Bay, in 33* 8^ 
south latitude, which is one of the finest in the whole colony, and 
will in time become the anchorage to the seat of justice for 
another district. Captain Morrell was in this bay in 1829, in the 
schooner Antarctic, and is quite fiill in his description. 

There are thirty thousand acres cultivated, seven hundred and 
forty thousand waste, and two thousand acres planted with vines, 
giving two millions six hundred and one thousand six hundred and 
fifty plants, yielding one thousand four hundred and sixty leaguers,* 

* A leaguer of wine is one hundred and fifty-two gallons 






T4 TOY AGE OF THE POTOMAC. [December, 

or two hundred and twenty-two thousand and seventy-two gallons 
of wine. 

The district of Stellenbosch contains four thousand six^ hun- 
dred square miles, and is situated in the western division of the 
Cape of Good Hope, and about twenty-live miles from Table Bay 
The chief produce of Stellenbosch is wine, and the average quan- 
tity made is twelve thousand five himdred leaguers, and sue hun- 
dred leaguers of brandy, per annum ; grain and fruits are abundant, 
when the season is favourable to farmers, though the district is 
not adapted for grazing. 

The district of Worcester, also, on the western part of the cape, 
is one of the most extensive in the colony, being two hundred and 
sixty miles long, and, in one place, one hundred and thirty in 
width. It is divided into no less than twenty divisions; the six 
first produce wine, grain, and cable,, and the remainder are only 
grazing farms. The cedar is found only in this district, and is 
procured from the mountains with great labour. 

The district of Swellendam once belonged to Stellenbosch, and 
was separated from it in the year 1745. It is estimated to con- 
tain nearly.nine thousand square miles. The chief products are 
butter, tallow, soap, aloes, cattle, and a small quantity of grain 
and wine. The horses of this section of the country are cele-* 
brated for draught and saddle, and some of the finest w^ool of the 
colony has been produced at Joetendal's Valley. But the capaci- 
ties of this district seem best adapts^ to grain ; and, by proper 
industry and labourers, immense quantities might be produced for 
exportation. At this time, it is said, there are not less than eigh- 
teen thousand five himdred acres under cultivation ; one hundred 
only in vines, one million four hundred and sixteen thousand in 
pasturage, and four millions two hundred and forty-eight thousand 
five hundred and twenty-nine uncultivated. At a village called 
Caledon, there are two warm medicinal springs, and their heat is 
92'. These baths have been foimd useftd iii chronic rheumatism, 
diseases of the skin, and scorbutic ulcers^ 

On the southeastern coast of the colony is situated the district 
of George, adapted only to the raising of grain and cattle. Near 
the mouth of Counts and Small Brak rivers are a few small salt 
lakes, though not very productive in this useful article. Spanish 
sheep succeed well, and Small Brak river abounds in the greatest 



MSI.] CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 75 

variety of choice fish, near its confluence with Mossel Bay; 
next to Simon's, this is the best and safest bay on the east coast 
of the colony, and is suited to vessels of all descriptions. A 
whale-finery is carried on in this place with tolerable success. A 
few small divisions of this district are productive in wheat of die 
best quality ; also wine, brandy, and tobacco, are cultivated to a 
limited extent ; there are fine groves of timber in the mountains, 
and many of the border settlers are employed in getting it out. 
There are ten thousand acres under cultivation, embracing all 
kinds of productions. This district is large, embracing one 
million four hundred and twenty-four thousand one" hundred and 
thirty-three acres. 

The district of Uitenhage is situated on the east coast of South 
Afirica, and is skirted on the stmflt by the Southern Ocean. It has 
two bays and several fine rivers, and is about five hundred miles 
firom Cape Town. Algoa Bay is the principal port, and its trade is 
rapidly increasing ; vessels firom the east, in the winter season, 
often stop in this bay, though Port Elizabeth may be considered 
the principal on the east part of the colony. Uitenhage, the capi- 
tal of the district, is one of the most flourishing towns of the 
colony, and was formerly the headquarters of the frontier; but 
the Caffires having made firequent incursions into the district, it 
was found necessary to remove the troops to Graham^ Town, up- 
wards of a hundred miles further in advance. 

The town of Uitenhage'-Sffords a number of spacious buildings, 
public and private ; agricultural societies, reading-rooms, and a 
turf-club are established, and managed with spirit. A seminary 
was established in 1822, and has at present one hundred and 
thirty pupils. There are lead mines near this place, though 
not worked. About seven miles northeast of Uitenhage are im- 
mense beds of seashells and seashellfish, particularly oysters; 
these beds are about ten miles firom the sea, and many hundred 
feet above its level. 

The local advantages of the district consist in its supply of wa- 
ter, and great capabilities for raising black cattle. A large portion 
of the butter, soap, and tallow exported firom Algoa Bay, is firom 
this district, whose main resources will always arise from its gra- 
zing qualities. The value of a fat ox is about two pounds ster- 
ling, and the amount of the black and breeding cattle in the 



76 YotAGE OF THE POTOMAC. [December, 

district is estimated at sixty-four thousand two himdred and fifty- 
two. In June, 1829, eighteen whales were killed in Algoa Bay, 
the Talue of which was estimated at near four thousand pounds 
sterling; and, in the year 1830, fifteen were taken of propor- 
tionate value. 

The appearance of the disljrict of Albany is highly pleasing, 
and is romantically diversified by gentle undulations, by precipi- 
tous woody ravines or kloofs, by stupendous ports or passes 
through the mountains, and by clumps of elegant evergreens; 
while the whole face of the country, with sUght exceptions, iis 
adorned by a covering of verdant pasturage, and the soil is gen- 
erally of an excellent quahty. It is bounded on the east by the 
Great Fish river, on the south by the Southern Ocean ; it is sixty- 
six miles in extent, and firom th^ty to forty-six in breadth ; pro- 
ducing wheat, barley, oats, Indian com, potatoes, peas, beans, 
and lentils. The animals, in 1829, amounted to one thousand 
seven hundred and ninety horses, three thousand and seventy 
homed cattle, sixty-seven thousand four hundred cape sheep, ten 
thousand Spanish sheep, and fourteen thousand nine hundrcKi and 
fifty goats. In no part of the colony have the inhabitants mani- 
fested more zeal in the establishment of schools, than in this dis- 
trict. This laudable spirit is not only manifest in the establish- 
ment of conunon schools for the children of the settlers, of Sun- 
day schools for the indigent, and an academy for the higher 
branches ; but its benevolence extends to the improvement 'i)f the 
intellectual condition of the Caffires — the poor, degraded, and long- 
misrepresented Hottentot. The missionaries have laboured in- 
cessantly to improve the moral degradation and horrid barbarity 
of these savages, and the result has been found most encouraging. 
Schools have been established among them, and the number of 
children of the Caffires now under instruction, amounts to more 
than six hundred ; and it is said, but for the want of teachers, 
the number might have been greatly increased. They are taught 
in the Caffre and English languages, and many of them speak the 
latter with considerable fluency. 

The exports of this district for the year 1830, in hides, horns, 
sheep-skins, tallow, butter, soap, gums, ivory, ostrich feathers, and 
salted beef and pork, amounted to about one himdred and fifty 
thousand dollars; which, for the number of inhabitants in a set 



1831.] CAPS OF GOOD aoPB. 7T 

tlement of ten years' standing, certainly bespeaks great pros- 
perity. 

In the neighbouring district of Graaf Rainet, the number* of in- 
habitants is fourteen thousand five hundred. The climate is equal 
in salubrity to any part of the colony; and, like Albany, is most 
favourable to grazing. In the year 1830, it had three thousand 
nine hundred and forty-one saddle and wagon horses ; five thou- 
sand four hundred and forty-four breeding mares ; eleven thou- 
sand five hundred and ninety-three oxen; fifty-two thousand one 
hundred and fifteen breedii^ cattle ; three thousand Spanish 
sheep ; nine- hundred knd seven thousand two hundred and sixty- 
seven colonial sheep ; and fifteen thousand goats. 

Such are the features presented by the several districts com- 
posing the present colony of the Cape of Good Hope. We have 
given this sketch somewhat more in detail, because the subjects 
appeared to possess much interest, and will at least be new to 
^the generahty of American readers. The delay of the Potomac 
at the Gape did not allow these remarks to be made from personal 
observation ; but it did allow time to see much evidence of the 
prosperity here' spoken of, and of acquiring the materials from 
which the picture has been drawn. 

By casting an eye over the map of the world, it will be seen 
that the Cape of Good Hope occupies a conunanding position.. 
From Brazil and Buenos Ayres, the distance may be run in a 
month; while to the Dutch colonies of Surinam, Berbice, and 
Essequibo, it will not occupy more than six weeks. To the Red 
Sea, Coromandel, and Malabar, the vayage may be performed in 
two months. 

Halfway from Europe to India, it forms a fine refreshing point 
for vessels engaged in the commerce of the east. During the 
year 1829, no less than two hundred and fifty-one vessels had 
entered the ports of the colony, the greater portion in Table Bay; 
amounting to seventy-three thousand two hundred and sixteen 
tons of shipping, and giving employment to five thousand and 
sixty-two seamen. The trade from the colony itself to England 
is important, considering that it does not contain more than one 
hundred and forty thousand free inhabitants. The following 
table shows how this popolation is distributed among the several 
districts : — 



TS 



TOtAOX OF THE POTOMAC. 



[December 



POPULATION (** THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, 1829-30. 



PiaTKICT. 



Cape Town... 
Cape District. 
StoUenboach .. 

WoTceater 

Swellendam... 

George 

Uiteimage 

Albany 

Somerset 

Graaf Rainet. 



Free persons, 












Mftni- 


whether black 


aLATia. 


TOTAL. 


Birtba. 




or white. 








ages. 


6,326 


6,777 


2,963 


2,875 


9,289 


9,052 


639 


120 


3,246 


2,688 


2,632 


1,400 


6,878 


4,088 


109 


13 


4,403 


3,966 


6,067 


3,313 


9,470 


7,279 


367 


62 


5,319 


6,064 


2,306 


1,971 


7,626 


7,626 


353 


45 


6,634 


6,309 


1,602 


1,370 


7,136 


6,679 


860 


63 


2,976 


2,669 


1,064 


996 


4,040 


3,666 


144 


67 


3,696 


3,199 


633 


648 


4,228 


3,747 


183 


7 


3,601 


2,662 


68 


48 


3,554 


2,700 


339 


40 


4,449 


4,292 


771 


605 


6,220 


4,897 


439 


94 


6,674 


4,820 


1,2!^1 


628 


6,896 


5,448 


653 


86 


46,023 


41,426 


18,312 


13,764 


63,335 


55,180 


3,476 


607 



DeathS' 



403 

137 

324 

256 

184 

97 

126 

79 

98 

1491 



Total, ri8,515 

Add for the anny, abont 2,500 

Grand total, . 121,015 

NoTB. — ^This total must be considerablj below the actual population of the colony, 
as h shows a smaller aggregate than the statistical details ol the sereral districts ex- 
hibit. Se?eral well-inlonned men estimate the population of the colony at about 
140,000. 



Great Britain requires the colony to pay all the expenses of its 
establishment, except the army and navy. For the purposes of 
reyenue, 3| per cent, is levied by the colony on all British goods, 
and ten per cent, on all foreign goods, though introduced in British 
bottoms ; and ten per cent, on goods imported from the east. On 
the subject of commerce, figures are always most valuable ; and* 
from the foUoviring table it v^ill be seen that the commerce of the 
cape has assumed an importance not to be expected from the pro- 
ductions of the colony and number of its inhabitants. 



1824, Imports 

£3q>orts 

1826, Imports 

Eiports 

1826, Imports 
Bxports 

1827, Imports 
Exports 

1888, Imports 

£aq)orts 

1829, Inqports 

Exports 
Not colonial, oo. 



i:346,6l5 
218,687 

296,792 
240,035 

269,424 
178,023 

286,062 
211,499 

260,962 
263,908 

366,523 

280,37fr 

18,264 



Excess of imports jC128,028 

Excess of imports 55j757 

Excess of imports 96,401 

Excess of imports 74,563 

ExcMs of imports 7,069 

Excess of imports ^,624 



1831.] CAPE Ot GOOD HOPS* 79 

Here tre have a commercial view of the trade carried on to 
South Afirica, and the evidence of no small share of enterprise on 
the part of its resident merchants, in order to sustain, so well as 
they appear to do, the balance of trade against the heavy impor- 
tations from the mother comitry. The ajBfairs of the colony seem 
to be well managed by his excellency general, the honourable Sir 
6. L. Cole, governor of the colony, president of the council, and 
commander-in-chief of the forces. 

In each district there is a civil commissioner, magistrate, pro- 
tector of slaves, and other subordinate officers, for the preserva- 
tion of. peace, and the discharge of all the subordinate duties of 
the civil government. The^ duties of the protector are various, 
and are intended to aifieliorate the condition of the slave, as much 
as is compatible. He is bound to inquire into all abuses, to re- 
dress all wrongs, to restrain the strong, protect the weak ; in a word, 
to be what his office would indicate, the protector of slaves. There 
is but one in the .colony, but he has his agents in all the districts 
where they are needed. 

Jn the judicial establishment there is a supreme court, with a 
chief-justice and three associate judges, who hold four terms in 
the year, in March, June, September, and December. Besides, 
the associate judges hold their separate courts at appointed 
periods, for hearing minor causes. 

In the year 1827, a charter was granted by the king of England, 
conceding to the colony the right of trial by jury in criminal cases ; 
and the council have taken the proper measures to carry this ar- 
rangement into execution, by issuing an ordinance declaring the 
qualification of jurors, nine being the number agreed upon, tod, 
under certain circumstances, six are to constitute a legal tribunal. 
Attached to the supreme court is the office of high sheriff of the 
colony, which office was created in the year 1828. His duty is 
to carry into execution all the sentences and decrees of the su- 
preme or circuit courts ; and, for this purpose, he is authorized to 
appoint deputies in all the districts. 

The energy of the colonial government pervades every part of the 
settlement; and the communications kept up vrith remote districts 
are regular through the postoffice establishment, which has no less 
than twenty branches distributed throughout the colony. , 

The number of humane and religious institutions, which may 



80 VOYAGE OF THE POTOMAC. [Deceiiiberi 

be placed under the bead of the church establishment, would seem 
to be greatly disproportioned to the number and even the wealth 
of the inhabitants. The true spirit of toleration prevails in the 
colony among the members of thie Church of England, Dutch 
Reformed, Presbyterian, Roman Cathohc, Wesleyan, Lutheran, 
ice. It is pleasant to see the harmony and good feeling which 
pervade these societies, and their co-operation in doing good^ 
under their separate or united direction, are Bible and School 
Conmiissions, Orphans' Houses, Philanthropic Society, Bible 
African Union, Infant School, African Mission Society, Branch -of 
London ditto, with numerous schools and teachers, and missions 
among the Hottentots, Caffires, and neighbouring tribes. 

While on the subject of societies, there is one which deserves 
particular attention, — ^the Cape of Good Hope Philanthropic S(h 
ciety, for aiding deserving slaves and slave children to purchase 
their freedom. This society, vnth his excellency the governor at 
its head, and his lady as principal patroness, appears to deem the 
emancipation of female slave children as the best method of em- 
ploying its limited funds for the present. 

The childiien manumitted are to be apprenticed, under judicious 
regulations, until they are sixteen years of age. The society, in 
all its acts, declares its intention of proceeding without injury to 
the property, or interference in any respect with the claims, of the 
proprietor ; a precaution founded in justice, which can never be 
too scrupulously observed by those who attempt to ameliorate^ or 
even touch upon the subject of slavery. 

It has been said that the colony defrays the expenses of its 
own establishment, except the army and navy. Its revenue can- 
not be accurately known from any published returns, but may be 
estimated at one hundred and twenty thousand pounds. About 
seventy-five per cent, of this amount is expended in salaries, and 
the remainder in the civil and military pension list, in support of 
the judiciary, hospitals, postoffice expenditure, and a thousand 
other objects in the civil administration* 

The military establishment is chiefly intended for the defence 
of the colony from the incursions of the hostile tribes of the fitm-* 
tier. Included in this force is a fine mounted rifle corps, and the 
72d regiment of Highlanders, whose national dress of tartan 
jdaid, Scotch bonnet, and waving plume, gives them a highly 



183 L] CAPE OF GOOD HOPS. 81 

beautiful and martial 9m. The seventy-fifth legiment, called the 
Duke of Albany's own guaid, was also on the station, and is a 
good looking corps. The appearance of all the troops is remark-* 
ably fine, and their movements in the morning and evening drills* 
in the pubUc square, show them to be in a high state of discipline. 

In our remarks on the district of Albany, an allusion was made to 
the laudable efforts, now in successful operation, to introduce the 
light of education among the children of the native Caffires and 
Hottentots. This is a subject of so much. interest to the philos* 
opher and the philanthropist, that we shall be excused for recal* 
ling to it the particular attention of the reader. 

That p<Nrtion of South Africa which has long been known under 
the general appellation of Caf&aria, lies between latitude 30* and 
34*, south, on the eastern coast ; it is bounded by Great Fish river 
on the southeast, which separates 'it from the country of the Hoi- 
tentots, and by Natal Bay on the north. Its western boundaxiei 
are not yet ascertained. The Cafires are tall and well propor* 
tioned, and in general evince great courage in attacking lions and 
other wild beasts. Their skin is jet black, their teeth whiter than 
polished ivory, and their eyes large and intelligent The dress 
of both sexes is nearly the same, consisting almost entirely of the 
hides of cattle, which, by a peculiar mode of preparing, are reii* 
der^ as soft and pliant as cloth. They are very industrious, and 
fond of agricultural pursuits, particularly the breeding of cattle, 
in which the valuable part of their worldly wealth consists. 
Their huts are more elevated, and far more commodious, than 
those of the Hottentots. 

But oppression and wrongs have driven them to predatory abts 
of retaliation, which amount to robbery, and have involved them in 
numerous conflicts with the colonists, steeping their native soil in 
blood, which only enriches it for the benefit of the ever-encroach- 
ing whites. The pioneers of all colonial settlements in a foreign 
land are generally composed of adventurers ; hardy, coinrageous, 
and enterprising, indeed, but destitute of those gentler virtues 
which constitute the refinement and happiness of older and more 
permanent communities. Hence it has happened, that in almost 
every instancy the kind reception and hospitality of the natives 
have been requited by acts of rapine, cruelty, and oppression, on 
the part of the colonists, which are naturally followed by some 



88 TOTAos OF THB POTOMAC. [December, 

dreadful reaction. Such was too often the case, even with the 
pious and enlightened founders of our own nation; and acts origi- 
nating in a similar mistaken policy have stained the annals of Uie 
Cape colony. The true character of the natives in both coun- 
tnes has been but Uttle understood, and much misrepresented. 

Captain Benjamin Stout, a relative of our elder Adams, the 
second president of the United States, was shipwrecked in the 
year 1796, on the southeastern coast of Africa, near the river 
Infanta, in the country of Caffiraria ; and he was perhaps the first 
writer who described these people according to their real charac- 
ter. In a letter to his illustrious relative, then chief magistrate 
of the nation, he speaks of them in the following terms : — 

** Cast, with sixty of my people, on the shores of Caffiraria, 
after combating the horrors of a tempest, which, I believe, has 
but few parallels in the history of naval misfortune, I foun(^ in 
the natives a hospitality, and received from them a protection, 
which, on many of the shores that belong to the poUshed nations 
of Europe, I might have sought for in vain. These unfortunate 
infaalntants of Caffiraria, who have been so ofen and so wickedly 
denominated savages that delight and revel in human slaughter, I 
found possessed of all those compassionate feelings that alone 
give a lustre to and adorn humanity ; living in a state of per- 
petual alarm from the persecuting and avaricious disposition of 
the colonists, and instructed by their fathers to consider a white 
man as a being who never hesitates to murder when plunder is in 
view, still a justifiable revenge yielded to the virtuous impulse of 
compassion, and our necessities were generously relieved, without 
even the prospect of recompense. When thrown, by the raging 
of the elements, on the sandy shores of their country, we were all 
unarmed, not having saved from the wreck a single article, either 
for our defence, clothing, or subsistence. In this situation we 
were completely at the mercy of the natives ; but, instead of re- 
membering and revenging the wrongs they and their predecessors 
had endured from the savage white, they made a fire to dry and 
refresh us ; they slaughtered a bullock, which they gave us for our 
subsistence ; they conducted us to a spring of the most limpid 
and wholesome water ; and, when we were enabled to travel, frir- 
nished us with guides through the deserts of their country. 
Such was the conduct of a people who have been described as 



1881.] CAPS OF GOOD HOPB. 88 

barbarians, possessing no other semblance of the human charac- 
ter than what they derive from their formation." 

The captain then, with a feeUng truly national, recommends 
ihat measures be taken for planting a colony of Americans among 
these people. This project, howerer, being foreign to the policy 
of our new govemment, was, of course, never acted upon. But, 
after our late war with England, in the year 1819,. the British 
ministry held out such flattering inducements to those who fek 
willing to abandon their country and their home, and become res* 
idents in the wild but delightful region of southern Africa, that 
large numbers in the following winter embarked for the Cape of 
Good Hope, for the express purpose of settling in Caffiaria. 
Among the number were several families of various religious 
denominations, who were warmly in favour of extending the ad- 
vantages of education to the rising generation of the> natives. 
Among these, some of the Methodist* persuasion took the most 
conspicuous part. Their numft>er8 were sufficiently large to en- 
title them to the promised annual stipend of seventy-five pounds 
sterling, for the support of a clergyman. Application was ac* 
cordingly made, previous to embarking, to the Wesleyan Mission- 
ary Committee in London, for a suitable person to fulfil the duties 
of that station, and the Reverend William Show was appointed 
to accompany the emigrants in that capacity. It was thus that the 
district of Albany first became a missionary station, the beneficial 
influence of which arrangement is now felt and acknowledged 
with gratitude by hundreds of .enlightened and partially civilized 
natives. 

The Caffires were always a warlike people, whereas their nei^- 
bours, the Hottentots, in general, and those near the Cape in par- 
ticular, are described as a mild, simple, aflectionate, and inofien- 
sive race ; but as extremely indolent in their habits, and limited 
in their intellectual faculties. But, wherever any sort of effort has 
been made to cultivate their powers, and give them a feeUng of 
hope and liberty in their occupations, they have proved active, in- 
telligent, and useful. They are of common stature, but not so 
short as the whites in general, while their hands and feet are re- 
markably small. Their skin is of a yellowish-brown hue, resem- 
bling that of a white man severely afiected vrith the jaundice. 
Their appearance, however, indicates health and contentment: 

F 2 



84 VOYAGE OF THE POTOMAC. [December, 

they are excellent swimmers, and bathe three or foor times a day. 
The females have a mode of braiding or plaiting their woolly hair, 
and adorn themselves with necklaces of shells. Both sexes gen- 
erally go bareheaded, and without Bhoes. There are other tribes 
of Hottentots at a greater distance from the cape, whose appear- 
ance indicates the last degree of wretchedness. But very few 
attempts, we believe, have been made to civiUze or even to human- 
ize them. Our present concern is with those in the immediate 
vicinity of the Cape colony (we mean the children). Both Hot- 
tentots and C.affires eiijoy the privileges of the school in Albany 
district, where, notwithstanding all those complicated obstacles 
which invariably attend the first settlers in a new country, there 
are no less than nine chapels ; seven of which are Methodist, one 
Congregational, and one Baptist, in particular parts of the district, 
all erected by voluntary contributions. Another was contemplated 
to be erected in Graham*^ Town some time in the course of 1831. 
Most of these places of worship )iave Sunday schools connected 
vnth them, affording to the rising generation, black as well as 
white, regular instruction in the rudiments of learning, as well as 
the first plain principles of practical religion. 

In treating of this interesting subject, the ChrahanCs Town 
Journal^ a weekly paper of much merit, 8a3rs, " Government has 
also done much to foster atld promote the progress of education, 
by the appointment of schoolmasters at different stations, with 
suitable allowances ; providing eligible school-rooms, and furnish- 
ing them with the necessary materials for conducting the several 
schools on the Lancasterian system. These schools, though un- 
questionably productive of much good, are not so popular, nor so 
well suited to the circumstances of the people, as Sunday and 
evening schools, which have been established, and are supported 
by private individuals. The children of the poorer inhabitants 
are compelled to tend cattle, or afford other assistance, from a very 
early age ; and so indispensable are their services, that it is only 
on Sundays, or after the close of their daily labour, that tfiey are 
disengaged, or that time can possibly be spared for the acqubre- 
ment of more usefrd knowledge. The total number imder in- 
struction in the district cannot, at a moderate computation, be less 
than one thousand, which gives the unexampled ratio of rather 
more than one to every seven of the entire population. 



1881.] CAN OW OOOO HOPS. 86 

'' The jnrogresB made by many of the childien at Sunday schools 
is genersJly encouraging, and in some instances extraordinary. 
At the late annual public examination of the 8cholai% such mani* 
fest indications of improvement are often exhibited, and such in-r 
tellectual acuteness displayed, as afford the greatest encourage* 
ment to the patrons of the several institutions ; and it is ahnost 
impossible to form too high an estimate of the vast benefit which 
must be derived by the next generation from the diffusion, through 
so many different channels, of religious and other knowledge 
among the youth of this district. Several of the Sunday schools 
have juvenile libraries, from which the more advanced scholars 
obtain the loan of various publications, not only of a moral and 
reUgious tendency, but also on general subjects. The good effect 
of these institutions has been remarkable : many who were iat^ 
merly scholars, are now gratuitous teachers ; and numbers have 
become exemplary characters, merely in consequence of the in* 
struction they received, and the habits they imbibed, while at- 
tending these schools." 

An infant school was established at Graham's Town a few 
months only subsequent to the visit of the Potomac, the rapid 
progress of which we learn has been truly astonishing; a tern- 
perance society, and also a savings' bank, are in '' the full tide of 
successful e:q)eriment.'' A }»ress has likewise been established, 
from which is issued the journal above named. 

Immediately adjoining Albany, to the northwest, lies a tract of 
country which was, about four years before our frigate made her 
appearance at Cape Town, allotted to the scattered Hottentots 
within the colony. It is located near the confluence of the Manr 
hazana and Kat rivers, and is, in fact, an extensive valley or glen, 
surrounded on all sides by mountains, except where it opens to 
the colony on the south. The number of Hottentots who are 
here collected from different parts of the country, is about five 
thousand. Very little encouragement was offered them, with the 
exception of the location itself. No actual assistance, indeed, was 
ever promised them, nor have they received any, with the single 
exception of fire-arms for self-defence ; no preparations were made 
for their reception, and neither rations, implements, nor money 
were provided for them. But they carried their greatest and only 
treasures with them, viz., industry, temperance, and perseverance ; 



86 T07AOB OF TH8 poTOHAc. [December^ 

and their success has been every way equal to their diligence 
and good conduct, neither of which has ever been surpassed. 
The former desert, under their management, in the. short space 
of three years, has become a delightful garden, and '' blossoms 
like the rose." 

During the season previous to the arrival of the Potomac, 
there were produced in this settlement four hundred and fifty 
muids of wheat, fifteen hundred muids of barley, and four hun- 
dred muids of Indian com, besides large quantities of KafTer com, 
potatoes, pumpkins, sweet cane, and other provisions. Inde-. 
pendently of the labour required in the cultivation of the soil, 
instances of uncommon exertion are manifested in the construc- 
tion of canals, which convey water to irrigate their fields and gar- 
dens. In some places these have been carried through the solid 
rock ; in others it has been necessary to cut to the depth of twelve 
feet to preserve the level, vvhile their entire length, throughout all 
the locations, is upwards of twenty thousand yards. 

There are two missionaries in this settlement, both of whose 
chapels are always filled, and several schools crowded with or- 
derly and intelligent children. There is not a single magistrate, 
lawyer, or physician in the village ; and, as a natural consequence, 
they have had no strifes, divisions, discontents, or diseases among 
them. And yet, with this picture of rural happiness before 
their eyes, there were men in the colony who, from mere motives 
of cupidity, were base enough to join in a conspiracy for attack- 
ing and destroying this peaceful little settlement. While the 
Potomac was lying at Cape Town, near the close of the year 
1831, this diabolical plan was in agitation. The following account 
of it was pubhshed in the Cape Literary Gazette the very day be- 
fore the frigate sailed. 

" The overt facts of this conspiracy are briefly these : About 
the close of 1831, rumours were industriously circulated, by per- 
sons unkno'wn, among the Dutch Afiican boors of the eastern 
frontier, to the effect that the Hottentots of Kat river were pre- 
paring to attack them on New- Year's day. The boors promptly 
assembled in arms imder their veld-coraets; and these local 
frmctionaries, instead of communicating the information to the 
government, immediately led their mde militia to attack the Hot- 
tentots. Fortunately, the frxmtier commandant, Colonel Somerset, 



1S31.] CAPS OF GOOD HOPB. 87 

got information of their designs^ and maiched with rapidity to 
Kat river. He reached the settlement befcve them, on New- 
Year's day. It was Sunday, and he found the Hottentots quietly 
congregated, unarmed, in their different places of worship. In 
one place there was a congregation of about five hundred souls, 
one hundred and nine of whom had just taken the sacrament. 
He informed the people of the rumours that had been spread 
against them ; assured them of his perfect conviction of their 
entire innocence ; and, taking with him three of their veld-comets, 
Groepe, Valentyn, and Stoppels (religious and quiet men, all well 
known to the author), he rode to meet the troop of colonial militia, 
who had by this time approached within view of the settlement. 
By energetic remonstrances and^ threats, he. prevailed on tliese 
violent and vindictive men to return quietly to their homes ; and 
on the 1 1th of January, 1832, a strong proclamation was issued by 
the governor, reprehending in the severest terms the mischievQus 
and irrational conduct of the colonists and their local officers. 
Had Colonel Somerset acted with less promptitude and en^gy, 
this Hottentot settlement would, in all human probability, have 
been deluged with innocent blood, and a bitter feud begun between 
the white and coloured classes, which might have lasted for gen- 
erations." 

Brighter prospects are evidently opening for this long oppressed 
and benighted region of the globe. " Long indeed has Africa been 
neglected, and suffered to remain the devoted victim of cruelty and 
oppression ; we cannot, therefore, but hail many recent and highly 
important events, which go far to prove that her 'day of visitation' 
has arrived. Now is stirred up the philanthropist to plead her 
cause, and unweariedly to exert himself in behalf of her fettered 
millions ; the traveller and man of science to explore her unknown 
deserts ; the missionary to establish himself in the most pestilen- 
tial of her chmes ; and the Christian coloilist to fix his habitation 
in the very neighbourhood of her warlike tribes." 

" Let proud oppression's ptllid sons go weep ! 
Let Afiric. with her hondred thrones, rejoice !" 



88 TOTAoa OF THB POTOMAC. [December, 



CHAPTER VI. 

Plffticnkn of the Seizure of the Ship Friendship hj the Malays, and the Massacre 
of part of her Crew — Retakii^ of the Ship, and her Retem to Salem— The Po- 
toinac*s hospitable Reception at the Cape of Good Hope— Interchan^ of Civili- 
ties — ^Proceeds on her Cruise — ^Plan of Operations— St. Paul's lalsad — Arrival 
on the Coast of Sumatra — Dangerous Navigation. 

As the Potomac was to proceed from Cape Town direct to the 
coast of Sumatra^ and in order that the policy of our government 
in sending her thither may be' fully understood, it will now be 
proper (and cannot fail to be interesting) in this place to give a 
plain statement of the treachery and cruelty of the Malays, which 
called down upon their heads a severe, though imavoidable and 
just punishment. 

It appears that the ship Friendship, of Salem (Massachusetts), 
Captain Charles M. Endicott, arrived upon the coast of Sumatra 
in September, 1830, for the purpose of purchasing a cargo of 
pepper. Finding the old crop nearly disposed of, he was com- 
pelled to wait the coming in of the new one, which generally be- 
gins to arrive from the interior about the last of April. In the 
meantime, Captain Endicott visited some of the other pepper 
ports on the a^i^acent coast, and succeeded in obtaining about two 
thousand ptcu/5 (the picul of Sumatra being about 133|^ pounds), 
with which he returned to his former anchorage, off the town of 
Quallah-Battoo. 

In the latter part of January, 1831, he made a contract with 
the rajahs and principal merchants of the place for the comple- 
tion of his cargo, at a stated price per picul^ which they agreed 
to furnish in fifteen days, all to be of the old crop. 

From this period up to the time of the assault upon the ship, 
the Malays had never betrayed the least signs of treachery. But 
Captain Endicott was too well acquainted with the reckless and 
treacherous character of these people, to be lulled into security ; 
the usual vigilance was observed, and no boat was allowed to 



18S1.] CAPTURS Of THE FRISNIMftlF. 89 

come near the ship at night ; ncur even in the daytime were any 
except in small numbers, allowed to come on board, and not even . 
then, until they had diyested themselves of their arms. The 
arms of a Malay usually consist of a kris, or dagger, secured to 
the left side by the fold of a long sash wrapped several times 
around the loins, and a knife, the blade of which and bandle are 
generally about eighteen inches long. The blades of these 
knives are kept extremely sharp. 

On the morning of the fatal ninth of February following his ar- 
rival, Captain Endicott went on shore, as usual, in one of his 
boats, ^taking with him Mr. John Barry, of Salem, second officer, 
and four of the crew, to assist in weighing and despatching the 
pepper. The pepper, as soon as weighed, was placed in the 
large boats of the Mahty^, and by them rowed off to the ship, and 
passed on board, when the bags were started and returned, as is 
done till all is thus embarked. 

In the afternoon of the day abovementioned, one of the boats, 
having been loaded near the banks of the river, firom which the 
place takes its name (river of Stones, or Stone river), and about 
one fourth of a mile firom its mouth, was despatched with her 
Malay crew for the ship. Observing that the boat did not {»ro- 
ceed directly to the ship, but made a halt near the mouth of the 
river, and near the opposite shore, two of the four men were 
despatched to observe her motions, and see that the Malays were 
not stealing pepper from the boat, a trick of which they are fre- 
quently guilty. Before, however, these men had arrived near 
enough to perceive what had actually been going on, the boat was 
pushing off towards the ship ; when they returned and reported 
accordingly, that they had seen nothing suspicious, and that the 
boat had her usual complement of men. Captain Endicott was 
not satisfied, as he thought that he perceived in the boat, while 
rowing off, a rather unusual number of Malays. 

The facts were these : In pursuance of a precoKcerted plan, 
made days before by the rajahs, and the very men who had en- 
gaged to furnish the cargo, and which a majority of the inhabi- 
tants were privy to, the boat had stopped at the mouth of the river 
to exchange crews, the hired boatmen leaving her, and the assas* 
sinSy eleven in number, who were to be liberally paid if successful 
in their enterprise, carried the boat alongside of the ship, and be* 



90 voTAGS OF THE POTOifAC. [December, 

gan passing up the pepper to two of the crew upon a stage made 
£Eust to the outside. 

As but a few hands could work at a time in the pepper-boat, 
numbers of the Malays came on board ; and, on being questioned 
by Mr. Knight, the first officer, who was in the gangway, taking 
an account of the pepper, as to their business, their reply was, 
that they had come to see the vessel. Mr. Knight ordered them 
into their boat again, and some of them obeyed ; but only to re- 
turn inunediately to assist in the work of death, which was now 
commenced by attacking Mr. Knight and the rest of the crew on 
board. The crew of the vessel being so scattered, it was impos- 
sible to concentrate their force so as to make a successful resist- 
ance. Some fell on the forecastle, one in the gangway, and Mr. 
Knight fell upon the quarterdeck, severely wounded by a stab in 
the back, while in the act of snatching from the bulwarks a board- 
ing-pike, with which to defend himself. 

The two men on the stage having vainTy attempted to get on 
board to the assistance of their comrades, were compelled to leap 
into the sea. One of them, Charles Converse, of Salem, being 
very severely wounded, succeeded in swimming to the bobstays, 
to which he clung until taken on board by the* Malays ; and, from 
some cause, he was not afterward molested. His companion, 
John Davis, being unable to swim, drifted with the tide near the 
boat tackle, or davit falls, the blocks being overhauled down near 
the water ; one of these he laid hold of, which the Malays per- 
ceiving, dropped their boat astern, and despatched him ! The 
cook sprang into a canoe .alongside, and in attempting to push off, 
she capsized ; and, being unable to swim, he got on the bottom, 
and paddled ashore with his hands, where he was made prisoner. 
Gregory, an Italian, sought shelter in the foretopgallant-crosstrees, 
where he was fired at several times by the Malays, with the mus- 
kets of the Friendship, which were always kept loaded and ready 
for use, while on the coast. 

Joseph Powell, John Muzzy, William , and a Swede, 

leaped into the sea, and swam to a point of land near a mile dis- 
tant, to the northward of the town ; and, unperceived by the Ma- 
lays on shore, pursued their course to the northward, towards 
Cape Felix, intending to go to the port of Annalaboo, about forty- 
five miles distant. Having walked all night, they found them- 



1831.] CAFTURB OF TBE FRIBKD8HXP. 91 

sehes on the following morning near the promontory/and still 
twenty-five miles distant from Annalaboo. 

Leaving these iinf<»rtunate men in consultation on what was 
best to be done for their safety; for the present,'let us return to 
the banks of the river, where were left Captain Endicott, Mr. 
Barry, and the four seamefi. A brig having been standing in from 
sea, Captain Endicott requested Mr. Barry to go to the beach and 
ascertain, if possible, what colours she had. Having arrived at 
the beach, and happening to cast his eyes towards the Friendships 
he saw the persons already named jumping into the sea. The 
truth now, vrith all its horrors,- flashed upon his mind, that the 
vessel was attacked ; and this seemed to account for the unusual 
number of Malays which had been observed, during the aftemooni 
hovering around. Believing that the whole town was privy, to 
this inhuman outrage, as a majority of them unquestionably were, 
Mr. Barry, with a prudence which showed his presence of mind, 
walked leisurely back, and, with apparent unconcern, passed 
through among the armed crowd ; and, unperceived by them, or, 
at least, not understood, and in a low tone of voice, said to Captain 
Endicott, " There is trouble on bc^urd, sir !" Captain Endicott, 
foUowing the same prudent manner, and without evincing the least 
excitement, directed Mr. Barry and the four men to get into the 
boat ; and, having followed them, the boat was about to put off 
into the stream, when a rajah, a man of considerable wealth, sprang 
into the boat. 

This rajah, named Po Adam, was the proprietor of a fort and 
considerable property at a place called Pulo Kio, but three miles 
distant from the mouth of the river Quallah-Battoo. More busi- 
ness had been done by this rajah during the eight years past than 
by aay other on the pepper coast ; — he had uniformly professed 
himself friendly to the Americans, and he has generally received 
the character of being honest. At all events, in this instance he 
gave the most unequivocal evidence of his friendship, and evinced, 
by his conduct, the most unqualified disapprobation and abhorrence 
at the villany of his countrymen. Speaking a little English, as 
he sprang into the boat he exclaimed, " Captain, you get trouble ; 
Malay kill you, he kill Po Adam too !** 

Part of the plan was, that if the piratical wretches succeeded in 
taking the ship, notice was to be given of their triumph, by hang« 



OS TOTAOB OF THE P0T0M4C. [December, 

izig or suspending their sashes from the rigging, at which time 
those on shore were to be massacred. The boat had scarcely 
gained her length from the bank of the tiver, when the wished-for 
signal was seen, and answered by a savage shout of exultation 
from the shore, the Malays at the same time making a rush into 
the water to seize the boat ! In this they were unsuccessful, as 
the boat was now in the middle of the stream, which was about 
one hundred yards wide, and was gliding swiftly, with the help of 
the current and hard rowing, towards the sea. But the alarm of 
the probability of the boat's escape having been communicated by 
the shouting savages who were collected in great numbers about 
the mouth of the river, and enjoying the spectacle of the victorious 
signals banging about the rigging of the captured ship, a large 
canoe, or sampan, was instantly manned by the Malays, and in 
the next moment was in the mouth of the river, to intercept the 
retreating party. This, however, had not been anticipated in their 
matured plan of attack. The captain and those with him were 
to have been murdered on shore ; and the instant manning of this 
boat only showed the general co-operation, and the eagerness with 
which they pursued their mtirderous purposes. The little party 
saw that escape by flight was impossible, and determined either 
to intimidate their assailants in the sampan, or to sell their lives 
as dearly as possible. At the same instant they steered directly 
for the hostile boat, while Mr. Barry, in the bows, flourished in a 
menacing manner at them the cutlass of Po Adam, in fact the 
only weapon of defence in the boat. It had the desired efiect ; 
and the Malays, alarmed at this bold bearing of their intended 
victims, retreated at once to the shore. 

Captain Endicott now continued to row towards his ship, to re- 
connoitre ; and intensely painful indeed must have been his feel- 
ings to see her in the hands of the Malays. As soon as they ap- 
proached near enough, the pirates commenced a fire from the ship 
with muskets, which Captain Endicott disregarded, until he saw 
them clearing away one of his six-pounders, which he knew to 
be shotted with round and grape, when he deemed it prudent to 
seek a place of safety. They then rowed for the little town of 
Soo-soo, distant, to the southward, about nine miles from Quallah- 
Battoo. Here a fine stream of fi^sh water throws itself rapidly 
into the sea, on the banks of which is a small village, to which 



1831.] CAPTVBX OF THE FRISNBSHIP. 98 

village, howerer, the captain did not proceed, fearing lest its in* 
habitants might be in some way leagued with those of QuaUah* 
Battoo. Po Adam's estate and fort, which he keeps well armed, 
lay nearly equidistant firom these two places. It being now dark, 
and a keg of fresh water haring been procured fr(Hn the stream, it 
was determined to row to Muckie, another town of considerable 
importance in trade, and situated twenty-five miles further south. 
During this fatiguing puU, Po Adam took his turn at the oar vrith 
the rest. They arrived, early on the morning of the tenth of Feb- 
ruary, at Muclde, where they found the ship James Monroe, of 
New- York, brig Governor Endicott, of Salem, and brig Palmer, 
of Boston. 

After a short consultation, it was determined on the part of the 
captains of these vessels to get inunediately under way, and pro- 
ceed to Quallah-Battoo, with the intention of retaking the Friend- 
ship. The cheerfulness and promptitude with which the com- 
manders, and officers, and crews espoused the cause of their coun* 
trymen, do them great honour ; for, in little more than an hour 
after Captain Endicott had communicated the distressing intelli- 
gence, the little fleet was under way, standing to the northward 
under a crowd of sail. 

By four o'clock on the same day, they gained an anchorage off 
Quallah-Battoo, though not sufficiently near to attempt a recap- 
ture. The Malays, in the meantime, had^removed on shore every 
moveable article belonging to the vessel, including specie, besides 
several cases of opium, amounting, in all, to upwards of thirty 
thousand dollars. This was done on the night of the ninth; and, 
on the morning of the tenth, they contrived to heave in the chain 
cable, and get the anchor up to the bows ; and the ship was drift- 
ing finely towards the beach, when the cable, not being stopped 
abaft the bitts, began suddenly to run out with great velocity ; but 
a bight having by accident been thrown forward of the windlass, 
a riding turn was the consequence, and the anchor, in its descent, 
was suddenly checked, about fifteen fEUiioms from the hawse. 
A squall soon after coming on, the vessel drifted obliquely towards 
the shore, and grounded upon a coral reef, near half a mile to the 
southward of the town. 

On the eleventh, having obtained a convenient anchorage, a 
message was sent by a friendly Malay, who caaie on boi^d at 



94 TOYAGB OF THE POTOMAC. [December, 

SooHioOy demanding the restoration of the ship. The rajah re- 
plied that he would not give her up, but that they were welcome 
to take her, if they could ! A fire was now opened from the ves- 
sels on the Friendship, whose decks were crowded with Malays, 
who promptly returned the fire, as did also the forts on shore. 
This mode of warfare appeared undecisive, and it was determined 
to decide the contest by a close action. A number of boats being 
mflinned and armed, with about thirty officers and men, a move- 
ment was made to carry the Friendship by boarding. The Ma- 
lays did not wait the approach of this well-armed and determined 
attack, but all deserted the vessel to her lawful owners ; when 
she was ta^ken possession of, and soon warped out into deep 
water. 

The poor fellows whom we left at Cape Felix soon came to a 
determination to turn back, pass Quallah-Battoo in the night, if 
possible, and proceed to Muckie ; on Wednesday, the eleventh, at 
midnight, they found themselves in the neighbourhood of Quallah- 
Battoo, and, taking a canoe, they passed safely to Pulo Kio. At 
daylight in the morning, Po Adam discovered them from his fort, 
and took them in. They were in a wretched and suffering con- 
dition, having swum ashore with but few clothes, and were se- 
verely blistered by the sun. In the course of the day they joined 
their ship. The wounded men, together with the Italian, Gregory, 
who gave himself up from the crosstrees, were afterward ran- 
somed for ten dollars each. The killed were Mr. Knight, George 
Chester, and John Davis. The voyage was of course abandoned, 
and the Friendship returned to Salem. 

Who cannot see, from the perusal of these incidents, that this 
piracy was the deliberate act of the rajahs, principal traders, and 
inhabitants of Quallah-Battoo? The manner of changing the 
boat's crew at the mouth of the river ; the signals concerted be- 
tween the assassins and the chiefs and populace on shore ; the 
ready attack made by the sampan to cut off the retreat of Captain 
Endicott ; the corresponding shouts and exultations when the flags 
or signals of success were seen from the vessel ; the robbing the 
Friendship ; the refusal of the rajah to deliver her up, and the at- 
tempt to defend her, by firing from the forts on shore, all stamp 
Aeir proceedings with the character of outlaws, meriting the most 
•ommary chastuiement. 



18&1.] CHARACTER 07 THS MALAYS. 05 

Under such circumstances, were the inhatntants of Quallah-Bat- 
too to be considered and treated as a part of a body politic, when 
it is notorious that the inhabitants of Sumatra are divided into as 
many petty sovereignties as there are large rivers or ports in the 
island ? Are they united together for the purpose of promoting 
each other's welfare, mutual safety, and advantage, by joint efforts 
of their own strength ? Have they a common government, com- 
mon rules, to which they hold themselves responsible, and whose 
authority they obey ? Have they been careful to avoid the vio- 
lation of their duties, in order that they may, consistently with 
moral justice, demand the observance of those rules at the hands 
of other nations and people visiting and trading on their coast ? 

It will be seen, in the following pages, that they have scarcely 
one of these essential requisites to constitute them a sovereignty, 
and entitle them to any of the formalities observed between na- 
tions. Indeed, at Soo-soo, but a Tew miles from Quallah-Battoo, 
there are other independent chiefs, who are often at war with their 
perfidious neighbours, in relation to whose character Horsburgh, 
in his valuable East India Directory, says, ** Small ships frequent 
Quallah-Battoo, to procure pepper and other articles of trade ; but 
it is prudent to be always guarded against the perfidy of the na*> 
tives, who have been several times successful in assaulting and 
caking possession of ships which came to trade with them." In 
one word, had the perpetrators of the outrage on the Friendship 
any plea to exempt them from the summary chastisement due to 
those whose crimes have placed them without the pale of the civil 
law ? A milder method was, however, adopted, and would have 
been carried into effect, had their consciousness of guilt permitted 
them to listen to conditions, as will be seen in the sequel. 

To be fully prepared for either alternative. Commodore Downes, 
in compliance with his instructions, had been dihgently assiduous 
to gain all the information it was possible to acquire, both at Rio 
and Cape Town, respecting their national character, strength, and 
military resources. At the latter place in particular, he obtained 
such intelligence as left no doubt on his mind of the piratical char- 
acter of the QudQah-Battooans, and the probable necessity of 
strong measures in procuring indemnification for the outrages com- 
mitted on the Friendship. He was also assured at the Cape, by 
British ofiScers high in command, both in the army and navy ; 



96 TOTAOE OF THE POTOMAC. [Decembcry 

officer9i too, who had themselves been much in India, and among 
the islands, and on the pepper coast, that the natives against whom 
he was sent to act were, by no means to be despised as enemies ; 
that they were notorious for their treachery ; and, in their own 
manner of fighting, were not at all deficient in courage. Thus 
furnished and armed with the necessary knowledge for conduct- 
ing this untried enterprise, the commodore felt anxious to reach 
the spot, and settle the account at once — ^peaceably if he could — 
forcibly if necessary. 

In the meantime, the few days spent at Cape Town had been 
rendered exceedingly pleasant by the interchange of civilities be- 
tween the officers of the Potomac and the inhabitants. Soon after 
the ceremonies and visits which would be deemed usual on such 
occasions, the commodore was invited to dine at the country seat 
of his excellency Sir Lowry Cole, a few miles from the town ; 
the excursion, occupying about an hour's ride, was over a fine 
Macadamized turnpike. 

The governor's palace, though not magnificent, was spacious 
and convenient, and every thing about it indicated good taste. 
On the same day, the commodore and his officers had been in- 
vited to partake of a dinner by the colonel and officers of the 
seventy-second regiment of Scotch Highlanders, then stationed at 
Cape Town, and forming a part of the regular force of the colony. 
But, as the governor was about to depart on a visit of inspection 
to some of the interior stations, the colonePs dinner was politely 
postponed until the day following. Both were served up in a 
style of excellence that evinced the finest taste. Indeed, the in- 
habitants generally seemed to emulate each other in extending the 
rights of hospitality to their republican visiters, which they evinced 
by their profiered civilities, and frequent visits on board the frig- 
ate. Numerous excursions were made on shore by the officers of 
tihe frigate, some as far as the farms of Constantia, so celebrated 
for the fine qualities of their wine. This exquisite article is 
made from a grape which is only found to flourish in a few locali- 
ties, and the wine of which cannot be procured at the vintage for 
less than five dollars per gallon. In short, so dftlightfully had the 
time passed, and so much were all pleased with Cape Town, that 
it was with no httle reluctance they took leave of that place on 
the twelfth of December. 



18S1.] PLAN OP OPERATIONS. 07 

A heayy sea, with strong currentSy and unfavourable winds, did 
not permit the Potomac to double the cape until the fourteenth; 
when, on the afternoon of that day, the wind, which ,had been . 
blowing firesh from; the south-southwest, requiring double-reefed 
topsails, veered to the west, and afforded a pleasant run for the 
distance of one hundred and fifty miles. This respite from ele- 
mental opposition, however, was of short duration, as the wind <|. . 
soon hauled round to the southward and eastward, so that but little 
headway was made for the space of eight or nine days. 

The time had now arrived when it was necessary to make pro- 
visions fo][ the attack^ if hostilities should be found necessary on 
reaching the coast of Sumatra. Dispositions were therefore made 
of a portion of the crew, by forming them into divisions of sixty, 
each to be placed under the inmiediate command of one of the 
several lieutenants detailed to accompany the expedition on shore. 
The marines were to act under their own officers. 

The object of equipping so large a force was, to be prepared 
for a vigorous attack, if such were found necessary ; but more 
especially to be able to effect the object of the disembarcation, 
by surrounding the forts, and preventing the escape of the prin- 
cipal rajahs, who had notoriously been the instigators and prin- 
cipal actors in the capture of the Friendship, and the murder of 
her crew. This seemed to be the only plan that promised the 
least hopes of success, by which the rajahs could be brought to 
punishment, if not compelled to make indemnification for the loss 
sustained by the Friendship. 

Other plans were thought of, but they seemed liable to many 
and serious objections. By means of threats or promises, a por- 
tion of the pirated property might possibly be recovered, but 
would this give any security for the future ? Would the Malays 
be deterred from committing like abuses, when they saw that the. 
only punishment which followed their deprecations, was that of 
yielding a moiety of the property plundered ? The object of a 
just war, or hostility, is to avenge or prevent injury ; to punish the 
offender, with the view of providmg for our friture safety ; to ob- 
tain justic^i^ foAe, when it cannot be attained by other and 
milder means. 1^ sword drawn in a good cause, and used only 
for the purposes of self-preservation, may itself become an in- 
strument of humanity. 



98 roYLQ'E OP THB POTOMAC [December, 

In one respect, we are not without our sympathy for the Ma- 
lays. We know the wrongs they have suffered, in common with 
the other natives of India, and we may speak of these wrongs in 
another place ; but whatever injustice they may have received, it 
has not been from our hands. We have made no conquests, de- 
throned no sultans, oppressed and enslaved no inhabitants of the 
eastern world. We have to do with the Malays as we find 
them, without stopping to inquire how they became so ; or what, 
under more favourable circumstances, they might have been. 

The information already obtained seemed to leave no doubt, 
that neither the character of the people on the coast of Sumatra, 
particularly at Quallah-Battoo, nor the government under which 
they nominally Uved, and under whose sanction piracies had fre- 
quently been committed on commerce, promised the least hopes 
of success from a mere formal demand for restitution, unless that 
demand was accompanied, at the same time, by a force sufficient 
to carry it into effect. If a mawkish sensibility, a timid and 
shrinking fear of responsibility, should say that this was a depar- 
ture from the usages of nations, in seeking indemnification from 
each other, let it be remembered, that the question at issue was 
not one of a mere commercial character, where a treaty had 
been violated, or a seizure made on illegal grounds, by a govern- 
ment possessing the requisites of sovereignty ; but a rapacious, a 
piratical attack, on the lives as well as the property of our citizens, 
under the most aggravated circumstances, and that, too, .by the 
chiefs of a people who have openly trampled justice under foot ; 
despised and violated the rights of others whenever they found 
an opportunity ; acknowledging no superior ; at least, for whose acts 
no other, or superior chiefs, would hold themselves responsible. 

Under these circumstances, feehng the frill weight of responsi- 
bility, and justly fearing the ruinous consequences which would 
inevitably follow an unsuccessfril demonstration of our force in a 
part of the world where it had never been displayed, and among a 
people who hitherto had treated the very idea of our strength with 
derision, the conunodore felt* compelled to prepare for efficient 
measures ; and, under any circumstances, td!ftring jhe guilty to 
punishment, and to leave an impression of|pur sense of justice, 
power, and readiness to punish aggressors, that should extend and 
pervade every inhabitant of the whole pepper coaat. 



1831.] I8ULND OF ST. P4XJL. 99 

From this period, the decks of the Potomac aknost daily pre- 
sented die novel spectacle of two hundred and fifty men imder 
arms, learning the use of the musket; to march and counter- 
march, load, prime, and take aim, who probably never before, in 
all their lives, had handled a piece of less calibre than a thirty-two- 
pounder. These exercises, and the object to which they led, 
seemed now to engross the minds and feelings of the whole crew; 
so that the ordinary tediousness of headwinds and cross seas was 
but partially felt. In these exercises the marines on board were 
of great service, and served as a nucleus upon which to form and 
drill the other divisions. 

On the afternoon of Friday, the fifth of January, the island of 
St. Paul was seen, bearing by compass east-half-south. On the 
morning of the following day, the wind hauling ahead, the island 
could not be reached by several tacks ; a boat was then sent on 
shore to procure some fish, of which there is a great abundance, 
and of the finest quaUty, in the waters surrounding this *' barren 
Uttle isle of the ocean." 

The island of ^St. Paul,, which was first discovered by the 
Dutch navigator Vlaming, in 1697, is in the Indian Ocean, lati- 
tude 38* 42^ south, longitude 76* 54' east. Its dimensions are va- 
riously estimated by navigators ; some giving it only four miles in 
length, and two and a half in breadth, while others allow it a length 
of eight or ten miles, with a breadth of five. The truth, probably, 
lies between the two. When bearing northeast from the observer, 
the island presents an elevated and somewhat level aspect, sloping 
down to the sea at each extremity. It is evidently of volcanic 
origin, as cones, with regular-formed craters, are to be found in 
several parts of it. The soil, being formed of decomposed lava, 
is a rich mould, that produces grass, but no trees. It contains 
several hot springs, in some of which fish could be cooked fit for 
the table. These, together with the constant rising of vapour and 
steam, plainly indicate the existence of internal fires. 

This island is inaccessible except on its eastern side, where is 
an indentation, cove, or basin, formed by the sea's forcing a lateral 
breach through that side of the principal crater ; through which 
the tide flows in and out, at the rate of three miles an hour, rising 
and falling eight or nine feet, at the full and change of the moan. 
The shape of this basin is that pf .an ellipsis, about a mUe and a 

o2 



100 YOYAOX OF THB POTOMAC. [Januaij, 

half in circumference, opening eastwardly, with a prominent head- 
land on each side of the entrance, abreast of which vessels may 
find anchorage in from twenty to twenty-three fathoms ; bottom 
of black sand. The depth of water in the centre of the crater is 
about thirty fathoms. From the northeast point of this island, a 
low rocky reef '' makes out" about half a mile into the sea, on which 
the kelp may be seen growing to a great length, and rising to the 
surface of the water. From the north and west points of the isl- 
and, breakers project about a quarter of a mile into the sea. From 
its western extremity, also, a reef makes out some distance, on 
whi6h the sea breaks. Here, in an east wind, a sealing vessel 
was lost, and usually ships are not safe vnth the wind from that 
quarter. 

The waters around this island abound with fish, among which 
is a species of the cod, bream, striped perch, red perch, and rock 
cod, with crawfish in myriads ; dogfish and sharks are also found 
here in formidable numbers, together vnth whales, grampuses, 
porpoises, sealions, and seals. Indeed, so abundant are the fish, 
that almost every year the island ifi visited to procure and salt 
them, for the market of the island of Mauritius. As respects 
climate, sealers who have resided long upon this desolate spot 
tay, that the weather is very fine in summer, but stormy in the 
vnnter, when the rains descend in torrents upon the island, and 
its surface is often swept with resistless tornadoes and whirlwinds. 
Numerous birds, such as the albatross, penguin, puffin, seaswal- 
low, large black peterel, blue peterel, gray peterel, stortny peterel, 
and Mother Carey's chickens, abound on the island, and eggs 
are plenty. 

The variation of the needle here, in 1747, was 17* 56' west; 
in 1764, it was 18' 45' west ; and in 1789, it was 19* 46' west. 

In sight of this island, to the north, is Amsterdam island, which 
is not high, but contains more vegetation, and also fresh water. 
The Dutch navigators, who first discovered these islands, gave 
their favourite name of Amsterdam to the northern, and that of 
St. Paul to the southern. Captain Cook designated them in the 
same manner. But later navigators, it appears, have transversed 
these cognomens, and christened each anew. We adhere to the 
original appellation, and recognise St Paul's as the southern 
island. 






1832.] ISLAND OF «T. PAUL* 101 

When the British embassy to China, in 1792,'with his excel- 
lency Earl Macartney as ambassador, touched at this island, they 
were not a little astonished to find it inhabited at the time by a 
small party, whom, on first sight, they supposed must be some 
unfortunate shipwrecked sailors. Such, however, was not the 
case. Though on so small an island, located in so vast a waste 
of waters, their exile was voluntary, nay, cheerful and lucrative— 
for they were busily engaged in the common prosecution of a 
voy^. It appears that they had come last from the Isle of 
France, being part of the crew of a sealing vessel, the joip) {prop- 
erty of Americans and Frenchmen, and landed on St. PauPs for 
the purpose of remaining long enough to procure a cargo of 
twenty-five thousand sealskins for the Canton market. At the 
time the embassy touched at the island, they had resided there 
about four months; and had already collected eight thousand 
skins, and were in hopes that in ten months more their whole 
cargo would be completed. 

This vessel, it seems, had been fitted out in the Isle of France, 
in the Indian Ocean, and had now gone to Nootka Sound, on the 
northwest coast of America, with the view of buying some sea- 
otterskins for tlie same market, intending to touch at St. Paul's 
on her return, for the skins collected during her absence. Thus 
it was intended to ply alternately between Nootka Sound, St. 
PauPs, and Canton, so long as the owners 'found the business 
lucrative. 

While our boat was absent at St. Paul's island, a strange sail 
was seen to the northward. A gun was immediately fired, and 
signal made for the return of the fishing party, who, in a short 
time, were alongside, with a plentiful supply of fish. The boat 
was instantly run up, and all sail set to come up with and speak 
the stranger, who proved- to be the French brig Naide, Captain 
De Aliens, from Nantz, and bound to Batavia. 

Fronr- this date to the seventeenth, nothing occurred at all de- 
serving note. The wind had been variable, and the passage 
regular. After some squalls and flying clouds, the weather grad- 
ually cleared up, giving every indication of our being in the regu- 
lar tradewinds. This expectation, however, was not finally re- 
alized ; as the winds continued, for many days, exceedingly 
variable, rendering the passage more tedious than we could have 



102 YOYAOE OP THE POTOMAC. [January, 

wished ; so that Hog Island, on the coast of Sumatra, was not 
made until January the twenty-ninth. The wind was light and 
bafiding ; indeed, perplexing would be a better term ; and, after 
succeeding in doubling the small islands called Cocoas, off the 
northwest extremity of Hog Island, the long-looked-for coast of 
Sumatra hove in sight. This land can be seen at a great dis- 
tance, sometimes as far as thirty leagues at sea. The range of 
mountains extending from one end of this immense island to the 
other, are some of them very high, and vary in distance from the 
southwestern shore, from fifteen to twenty-five miles. 

Tl)e approach to the coast of Sumatra by a vessel of the 
Potomac's dimensions, is attended with much danger ; and the re- 
sponsibility of such a command, when unaided and unattended 
, by a consort, to ensure safety to life in case of accident, must 
ever be accompanied with feelings of anxiety painfully intense. 

Coral reefs are numerous ; and in light weather, when the sea 

is smooth, there are no breakers to indicate their position, which 

renders it indispensable for a ship with a heavy draught of water 

to proceed vrith the greatest caution. The leads, wfiich were 

kept constantly going, indicated the most irregular soundings, 

varying more than one hundred fathoms in the course of a few 

rods. 

It is to be remembered that the northwest monsoon, sometimes 

called the little monsoon, which some authors say blows from 
November to May, does not always do so ; and though the prevail- 
ing winds within one or two hundred miles of the coast of Suma- 
tra may be from the northwest, yet therle are many intervals of 
calms, thick, cloudy weather, and sometimes heavy squalls, which, 
though generally of short duration, may frequently be entitled to 
the appellation of gales. The rise and faill of the tides appears 
to be governed by no laws, except those of the winds ; indeed, 
the currents in these seas will be found to depend, principally, on 
the prevailing winds. 

More than one hundred and fifty miles from this coast, a cur- 
rent had been found to run from west to northwest, and varying 
very much in velocity. On approaching the coast it beciyiie 
very irregular, sometimes from north-northwest, and then chang- 
ing more to the westward, the intervals being quite uncertain. 
From these causes it will be perceived, that the Potomac's ap- 



1832.] QUiLLLAH-BATTOO. 103 

proach to this coast must have required the utmost vigilance to 
avoid the reefs, so common and so little explored. 

Hog Island viras made on the lee how, about forty miles distant; 
yet so light and so variable was the wind, with occasional calms, 
that, in despite of every effort, but little headway could be made ; 
and it was ascertained by observation, as well as from the bearing 
of the land, that the vessel was drifted not less than twenty miles 
in twenty-four hours, to the southward and westward, by quite a 
contrary current from the one named before. At this time the 
virind hauled ahead to the northeast, and it was not for seven 
days after making Hog Island, that the Potomac was brought to 
her anchorage off Quallah-Battoo. 

In relation to the approach to this place, Lieutenant Pinkham, 
in his notes, says ; ** From what I myself felt, with others of my 
watch officers upon the occasion, I think I can judge somewhat 
of the intense anxiety felt by the commodore upon approaching 
a coast so little known ; the lead constantly indicating the most 
alarming changes. I remember upon one occasion, the ship not 
moving at a rate of more than half a mile an hour, the lead sud- 
denly indicated a change from thirty-five to twenty fathoms; 
another cast was immediately made, and before the ship had pro- 
ceeded more than once her length, no bottom could be found with 
a hundred and ten fathom line !'' 

The commodore was often heard to speak of this part of his 
cruise in the east as having been one of great solicitude and 
sleepless nights ; and well might he thus speak, when it is recol- 
lected the value of the cargo intrusted to his care, of not less 
than five hundred souls, that must have perished had the Potomac 
struck upon, as she must have passed near to, some of these hid- 
den and dangerous coral reefs. 

By vigilance, however (in such seas the sailor's only chart), 
perseverance, and the blessings of Divine Providence, the Poto- 
mac had now reached in safety her first anchorage in the east ; 
when the plan of operations on Quallah-Battoo was to be put 
into immediate execution. 



104 TOTAoi' or THB POTOMAC. [Febdiaiy, 



CHAPTER VU. 

ine AMomae, diigaised m a Merohantnum, aiichon off Qnallih-BaUoo— A recoD- 
noitriag partj of Americans dotenod from landing bj the hostile morements of 
the Malays — ^Bat little hopes of obtaining Indemnification bj peaceable measures- 
Preparations for Enforcing our jnst demands — ^Humane Instructions of the Com- 
modore—Landing of the Crew, with, strict orders not to commence Hostilities, 
unless attacked by the Malays — ^The latter firs on the Americans, who imme- 
diately adrance to the Attack, and storm and dismantle all the Forts but one— 
The Victorious Party return on board— ^Loss in the Attack — Funeral Service for 

. the Slain — Official Documents. 

• 

In order that the Malays might not comprehend the real designs 
and character of the Potomac, the stump topgallant masts were 
got up, the maindeck guns run in and ranged fore and aft, the 
half p<Mrts shut in, and the white streak so altered as to show only 
ten ports on a side. The frigate was thus made to' assume the 
appearance of a merchant ship of great burden and capacity, like 
many of the East India traders. When all was prepared, the 
commodore, on the fifth of February, stood in, and came to 
anchor about five miles from the land. 

From a manuscript chart, which had previously been taken by 
Captain Endicott, a tolerably correct idea could be formed of the 
local situations of the forts. The commodore, however, deemed 
it important that still more accurate information should be pro- 
cured, if practicable, of their true positions ; at least, that those 
intended to lead the several division! should, previous to their 
landing with the forces which were intended for the settlement of 
accounts with these people, be fully aware of what they had to 
encounter, in effecting this object. 

Voluntary justice on the part of the Malays, for the piratical 
act of which we complained, was not to be looked for, and was en- 
tirely out of the question. It was the act of a whole conmmnity, 
with at least the connivance of their rulers the rajahs. The 
only plan, therefore, that promised success in compelling them 
to do us justice, was that of securing tho persons of some of 



1*" 



1832.] RSCONNOITRIMO PARTY. 106 

their principal rajahs, and retaining them as hostages until the 
actual perpetrators of this atrocious act of piracy were brought to 
condign punishment, and ample restitution of property made to 
the owners of the ship Friendship, and her unfortunate officers 
and crew. When similar acts of aggression are perpetrated by 
the primitive proprietors of the American soil — ^when a robbery 
or murder has been committed by one or more indivi4uals of a 
tribe on our western frontiers — ^the nearest local authority imme* 
diately makes a demand that the culprits be forthwith given up to 
abide the penalties of our own laws ; and, if refused, the demand 
is quickly enforced by the arm of military power; and chiefs, 
like Black Hawk, have been retained in custody as hostages for 
the future good behaviour of their tribes. Ought the bloodthirsty 
inhabitants of Sumatra to be treated with any more lenity than 
the much wronged and oppressed aborigines of our own country T 
Let justice and humanity answer the question. 
* In order, then, to secure the persons of the rajahs without 
bloodshed, it was desirable, as before intimated, to gain more ac- 
curate information than the commodore possessed, respecting the 
exact position of the several fortresses in which these oriental 
princes were to be found. To effect this object, the commodore 
directed that the following system of espionage be adopted : — a 
boat was prepared to visit the shore, and Lieutenant Shubrick, 
in citizen's dress, was to represent the captain of the Potomac as 
a merchantman; while Lieutenant Edson was to represent the 
supercargo, anxious to procure a supply of pepper. Lieutenants 
Pinkham, Hoff, Ingersoll, and Acting-sailing-master Totten, 
dressed as sailors, rowed the boat ; and it was intended that they 
should stroll about the village ground, and pick up what informa- 
tion they could in relation to the state of defence of the Malay 
forts, while the mock captain and supercargo should open nego- 
tiations in relation to a cargo of pepper. These officers having 
received the necessary instructions from Mr. Barry, as to the plan 
of opening negotiations with the rajahs, the boat put off from 
the ship. 

The Potomac had anchored in twenty fathoms, soft bottom, the 
town bearing north five miles distant. The boat had not pro- 
ceeded beyond hail of the frigate, when the bottom was per- 
ceived under her; which induced Lieutenant Shubrick to hail the 



•» 






106 YOTAOB OP THE POTOMAC. [February 

ship, and communicate the fact A boat was immediately sent 
to sound, and found a coral reef, of two or three acres in extent, 
with but five fathoms of water upon the shoalest part. 

In the meantime, as the other boat approached the beach, the 
Malays began to coUect in considerable force. There was much 
surf on the shore at the time ; and of the number collected 
around the boat, not less than two hundred were armed, some 
with 'krisses and kniyes, and others with blunderbusses. It 
seemed evident that they had some auspicion of the character and 
object of their visiters ; and appeared so formidable in numbers 
and weapons, that the party deemed it imprudent to land ; which 
caution was approved by the commodore, who had watched with 
glreat anxiety the boat's approach to the beach, with the great 
number of- Malays which were seen gathered round tlie spot 
where it was expected she would land. The party, of course, 
returned to the frigate. 

From all that had thus far been witnessed, there was nothing 
that seemed to require the least alteration in the mind of the com- 
mod(xre, as to the correctness of the plans he had previously 
matured ; on the contrary, every thing seemed to confirm and 
strengthen them. The physical force of the Malays was by no 
means inconsiderable ; and their fastnesses in the jungle rendered 
them exceedingly formidable. Prompt measures, and such as 
were calculated, if possible, to eflfect a surprise, were evidently 
indicated as the only course compatible with humanity and soimd 
policy. As soon as it was dark the boats were hoisted out, and 
during the night every preparation was made for landing. 

The several divisions were now, to a man, impatient to be un- 
der way. Indeed, the spirit of the enierpnse pervaded the whole 
ship's company to such a degree, that even the sick-list was re- 
duced lower than it had previously or has since been known ; so 
eager was every one to be ranked among the combatants. Men 
who could not be detailed for this service were found stowed 
away and concealed in the boats, vnth the hope of joining their 
companions on shore. The very uncertainty of the character, or 
final result of the enterprise, seemed to give it a new and irre- 
sistible charm in the eyes of every genuine sailor. 

The rules of the service not permitting the commodore to 
leave tlie ship in person, the command of the expedition devolved 



\ 



1882.] INSTRUCTIONS. 107 

upon Lieutenant Shubrick, to whom the commodore had yery 
fully imparted his instructions, and explained his views in gen* 
eiral, for the whole management of the enterprise. Foreseeing, 
however, that the plan of operations o;i shore would inevitably- 
lead to a separation of the several divisions, the commodore took 
occasion, while the whole party stood under arms on the spar- 
deck, to explain to the officers at the head of their respective 
divisions, as well as to the men, the nature and objects of the 
service upon which they were about to engage, and for which 
they had been ordered by their government to this distant part 
of the world ; and that, however few in numbers, or humble the 
enterprise, that much good or evilHo the future safety of American 
interest, and the lives of their countrymen engaged in com- 
mercial pursuits in these seas, might depend on their good con» 
duct that night. 

He then explained to them that their first object on landing 
should be to surround the several forts, so as to intercept the 
flight of the rajahsj as the first and all important preliminary 
step towards opening a sticcessful parley ^ and final investigation 
in relation to the Friendship, the outrages committed upon which 
vessel had alone led to their present visit to this island ; and that 
in no instance, and on no account whatever, were they to com- 
mence hostilities, nor ^re a gun upon the Malays, unless the 
attack first came from them ; in which case, they were not only 
to defend themselves, but should rush at once to the assault ; and 
at every hazard carry the forts which had thus refused to hold 
conference. Should the conflict become warm, he trusted they 
would bear in mind that humanity to the vanquished was ever 
more honourable to the victor than valour; and, above all, he 
charged them to lessen, by every means in their power, the suf- 
ferings and alarm of the unarmed and defenceless. 

He next reminded them, and earnestly urged the fact on their 
attention, that but little was known respecting the localities of the 
place where they were about to land, and still less of the strength of 
the forts they were to invest, the number and arms of the enemy, or 
the resistance they might make. He charged them not to forget 
that the honour of their country, so far as committed to their 
keeping, as well as their own honour and safety, might, and most 
probably would, depend upon their steadiness, and the alacrity 



1 

\ 



406 YOTAOB OP THE POTOMAC. [Fetruaiy, 

with which they supported each other in the impetuosity of their 
attack, should such become the unpleasant alternative. In a 
wordy they were to look to Lieutenant Shubrick as their leader ; 
and to execute, wiUi impUcit obedience, his orders in the general 
movements, as well as the conunands of officers.in charge of the 
seyeral divisions, while separated from each other. 
^ Orders were now given to pass over the side of the ship, and 
take their places, as arranged, in the several boats. These 
orders ^ivere obeyed with a half suppressed and willing ardour 
which gave confidence as to the result of the entetprise, as well 
as.an earnest of what still might be expected from American sea- 
men when their country shall •require their services on a more 
important theatre, and on a larger scale. One of the sections of I 

each division was armed with pistols and bparding-pikes, the 
rest with muskets. The boats in which the whole embarked 
were, the launch, four cutters, and the life-boat. 

The six-pounder, familiarly known to the officers and men by 
the cognomen of " Betsey Baker^^ was placed in the launch, to 
which a small stage had been fitted, and towed astern, for the ( 

purpose of facilitating the landing of the gun and the men, in 
case the surf should be found so high as to endanger the arms 
and anmiunition. Every thing being now ready, and the men at 
their oars, the little flotilla left the frigate, led by Lieutenant 
Shubrick in the whale-boat, to indicate the place of landing. 
The other boats, with the largest ahead, followed in line, all with 
muffled oars, and silent as the grave. 

It was now about two o'clock, A. M., on the morning of Mon- 
day, the sixth of February. The night was still — the stars bright 
' — but no moon. Not a word was spoken above the low, sup- 
pressed whisper, as the boats glided swiftly on towards the shore. 
The place of landing having been selected previously to leaving 
the ship, no difficulty was found in steering the boats to the 
designated spot, which was not far from the fort of the powerful 
rajah, Muley Mahomet. This place is almost a mile to the north 
of the town, and was selected as promising the most convenient 
spot for the men to land on, and form in their respective divisions ; 
and as being in some measiu-e protected from a view of the town 
by a projecting point of land. 

On approaching the shore, two lights were seen moving in dif- 



1832.1 LANDING OP THE DIYI8ION8. 109 

ferent parts of the town ; but the^'soon disappeared. A moment 
more, and the order, " Oars," was given. The boats immediately 
" backed in," when the launch let go her kedge ; and, as the surf 
was high, rigged out her stage, over which the division in her 
passed on shore, without difficulty or accident — scarcely wetting 
a single piece. The six-pounder, by the same means, was also 
landed in safety. By this time, the other boats had also com* 
menced disembarking their respective divisions ; and, in fifteen 
minutes, all were safely landed, formed, and in order of march ; 
each man having found his place, according to the position he 
occupied while being drilled on the decks of the Potomac*. The 
marines formed in front, facing to the south; the other divisions 
in like manner, the right of each being near the water's edge ; 
the left but a few yards from the groves of cocoanut-trees and 
jungle. 

While this little force stood thus under arms on the beach, be- 
fore receiving orders to advance, what an interesting spectacle 
must they have presented to an American eye ! Who could be- 
hold, without feeUngs of the deepest interest, so smaU a body of 
men, thus paraded on a foreign and hostile shore, armed, and 
eager to march whithersoever led, in the stem demand for justice,, 
on account of wrongs suffered by their unoffending and unpro- 
tected countrymen! Rough, hardy sailors, as most of then> 
were, they presented a picture that was by no means deficient in 
those exquisite touches which constitute the " moral sublime." 

The morning star had shone some time above the horizon, and 
the streaks of light began to make their appearance. The 
matches were now lighted, and all was expectation and eagerness. 
At the moment, some hesitation was felt as to the exact course to J^ 
take ; a Malay, who had probably been placed as a sentinel, was ^^ 
observed to run some distance ahead, from the beach towards the 
jungle, and the instant was seized to move forward. 

The town of Quallah-Battoo does not contain less tlten two 
thousand inhabitants, and nearly five hundred fighting men. It 
is situated on a small bight about two miles long ; a small stream, 
passing through the rear of the town, divided it into tvyo very un- 
equal portions, the main part being on the northwest side, where 
the divisions landed. It is regularly laid out into streets, inter- 
spersed with jungle and cocoanut-trees, and contains five forts. 



# 



110 TOTAOB OP THE P0T0M4C. [Febnuuyy 

owned and commanded by diffexiBot lajahs or chiefs. The natives 
and their leaders rely exclusively on these forts and their cita- 
dels for defence at all times, when engaged in their numerous 
petty wars with each other, or when expecting an attack from an 
enemy without ; and long have they believed that vrithin these 
walls no enemy, however formidable, could ever be able to reach 
them: 

Through Mr. Barry, an outline of the sitaation of the forts had 
been obtained, and the attack accordingly planned as follows, by 
the commodore, previously to the divisions' leaving the ship: 
Lieutenant Hoff, who commanded the second division, was to in* 
vest the fort belonging to Muley Mahomet (or Poloa-en-Yamet), 
situated at the northwest (NCtremity of the town, and about sixty 
yards from the water's edge. Lieutenants Edson and Terrett, at 
the head of the marines, were ordered to proceed to the invest- 
ment of the fort belonging to Tuko de Lama, about five hundred 
yards in the rear of Mahomet's fort, while about six hundred 
yards to the right of these stood the fort of Catchey Duraman, 
directly in the rear of the town, to which Lieutenant Pinkham 
was ordered virith the first division ; while Lieutenant Ingersoll, 
conunanding the third division, with " Betsey Baker" in the rear, 
and in front the boats under Passed-midshipman Godon, should 
invest the main fort, commanded by the powerful rajah Chedula, 
situated within thirty yards of the beach, and directly in front of 
the town. The fifth fort is situated to the east of die rest, and 
across the stream alluded to, and is surrounded by an inaccessible 
jungle. 

These forts, and particularly the citadels, were generally bedded 
deep in the jungle, which prevents them from sudden surprise 
and abrupt attacks, and gives to the defenders the means of hold- 
ing out longer and to better advantage. As the small colunm pro- 
ceeded onwarda, the boats kept up with them to the point of land 
where ll^ town and the nearest forts were in clear view, when the 
party moved to the left and entered the path cut through the jun- 
gle. As yet, no movement had been seen on the part of the na- 
tives ; but a moment more, and a shot from the fort of Muley Ma* 
hornet announced their vigilance and readiness to receive their 
morning visiters. 

Lieutenant Hofifs division now filed ofi" to this point of attack, 



1892.] ACTION C0MMBNCX2>. Ill 

while the main body still moyed onwaid, up a little steep ; when 
Lieutenants Pinkham and Edsan both marched off to their re- 
spective forts ; while the third division and Betsey Baker, accom- 
panied by Lieutenant Shubrick, still passed through the town. In 
a few moments the attack became general, the Malays in no in- 
stance allowing time for parley ; but received each division with 
an unexpectedly q)irited fire fnnn their small cannon, muskets, 
and blunderbusses. Lieutenant. Ho£^ as the nearest division, was 
the first engaged, and a spirited fire was kept up, while a part of 
his division attempted to breakdown a heavy gate which appeared 
to form the only or principal barrier to coming within close quar- 
ters. This being forced, a part of the division entered, but still 
found themselves distant from ihe^citadel within, on account of a 
barrier of close jungle which surrounded it. Here, however, the 
men were partially protected from the fire of the Malays, which 
Was now idly directed. At this time Lieutenant Hoff called to 
them to desist, by a few words he had learned for the purpose 
from Mr. Barry, and the attack should cease ; but thej only an- 
swered with shouts, and redoubling their exertions, by hurling 
javelins and firing down upon them. Two men were wounded. 

This put a stop to all further conference, and the men were or- 
dered to prepare for storming, which they did by throwing up a 
platform of brush and other loose materials found lying on the 
beach, but a short distance from the fort. Having literally built 
themselves up to a level with the top of the wall, an effort was 
made to reach its summit, where they were met by the Malays, 
hand to hand, when several of the assailing party were severely 
wounded; but Mahomet and the principal leaders having fallen, 
but feeble. resistance was made by the rest, and the fort was4n- 
stantly carried. 

Lieutenants Edson and Terrett, with the marines, with equal 
success, had forced their way into the fort destined for their attack. 
The Malays met them vnth firmness, but could not stand before 
the superior discipline of the marines, whose ardour seemed fully 
to compensate for their want of numbers. Lieutenant Terrett, 
with a guard, being left in charge of the fort. Lieutenant Edson, 
with the remainder of his men, proceeded through the town to 
join Lieutenant Shubrick, and receive his ftirther orders. 

In the meantime Mr. Barry, who had been sent to point out 



V 



118 YOTAOB OF THE POTOMAC. [Febroaxyi 

the fort destined to the attack of the first division, not being able 
to discover it, from recent alterations made in the general dispo- 
sitions of the place, Lieutenant Pinkham turned his division to 
the right, and joined in the attack of the third division on the fort 
of Chedulah. The gateway having been forced, with great diffi- 
culty, by the pioneers, parts of the two divisions entered, imder a 
brisk fire firom a high platform situated at the southwestern ex- 
tremity of the fort, and enclosed with lofty palisades. To this 
spot the enemy had retreated, followed by the divisions, which 
were now partly screened by the walls cf the fort, and the brisk 
and well-directed fire kept up by Betsey Baker, under the direction 
of Passed-midshipman Totten. 

Finding this spot no longer tenable, the Malays retreated to 
within the walls of the fort, which was now being attacked in fi*ont 
by the boats. The outer walls were fired, and the flames, spread- 
ing with great rapidity, soon communicated to the inner apart- 
ments, and in a few minutes an explosion took place, fi*om a large 
quantity of powder, which fortunately did no injury to the attack- 
ing party ; when another efibrt was made, headed by Lieutenant 
IngersoU, for the main fortress. In this assault, William P. Smith, 
seaman, was killed ; Midshipman Taylor and three men wounded, 
one dangerously. 

The firing firom the fort now began to slacken ; the Malays not 
being able to stand the cross fire fiom the boats and the two di- 
visions ; but still they held out. The men firom the boats were 
now called on shore ; Lieutenant Edson had arrived, and Lieuten- 
ant Hofi* at the same moment came up with a part of his division, 
having left the remainder with an officer in charge of his fort. A 
general attack was ordered", and the fort was instantly taken by 
assault, the Malays making precipitate retreat through their secret 
avenues into the jungle. The guns were dismounted, spiked, and 
thrown firom the walls ; the small arms taken and sent to the boats. 

At this time the Malays, collecting in numbers, began to rally 
at the back of the town, and to advance. The fort of Duraman 
had commenced firing upon the small body of marines under Lieu- 
tenant Terrett, left in charge of the fort they hafl captured. This 
was the fort the first division had been unable to find ; but being 
now discovered. Lieutenants Pinkham and Edson, with parts of 
their divisions, were ordered to attack it ; while the remainder 



1833.] PORTS CAPTVRSD. 113 

forced the Malays, with some loss, to fall back into their jungle. 
The fort was instantly taken, with the loss of one man killed, and 
three more severely womided. 

Nothing now remained to be done. The Malays had been 
beaten at all points, and forced to retreat ; their forts dismantled, 
and the outworks consumed, from which the fire had spread to 
many other buildings in the town. The surf was rising rapidly, 
when from two kent-bugles the air of Yankee-doodle was sounded, 
which, as previously agreed on, brought all the scattered divisions 
to headquarters, when they commenced embarking, under cover 
of a guard of marines. 

The services performed by the guard did them great credit. By 
this we mean nothing exclusive. Where all performed their duty 
so promptly, so fearlessly, and vrith so much effect, it would be 
equaUy invidious and unjust to draw distinctions or make com- 
parisons. The whole manner of attack had been conceived in 
judgment, and executed with a sailor's natural impetuosity; 
but had the assault been less skilfully or successfuUy made, or the 
re-embarking divisions pressed by an advancing enemy in their 
rear, the marines, still unbroken in line, would probably have 
rendered a service, and given an argument of their importance, as 
a constituent of our navy, that might not be easily refuted. 

Every attention had been paid to the wounded by Assistant- 
surgeons Foltz and Pawling, who were at all points, as their pro- 
fessional services were needed. 

.As the boats pulled off from the shore, a shot, from the still 
unsubdued fort across the stream, struck close to the launch, 
ricochetting over several of the boats, but without doing any in- 
jury ; and at ten, A. M., the whole party had arrived on board, 
receiving the conmiendations of their commander, whose mind 
had been kept so long in the most painful suspense. From the 
conunencement, he had witnessed the constant firing of small 
arms, the frequent discharge of cannon, the explosion of the forts, 
the movement of men to and fro, without being able to distinguish 
who they were, or what fortune was attending them, until thus so 
happily relieved, by beholding his crew once more within the 
strong waUs of the Potomac, and that so few had suffered during 
the morning's excursion. In the afternoon, the burial service 

H 



% 



r. 



114 VOYAGE OF THE POTaMAc [Februaryi 

was witnessed by all hands, oyer the bodies of their deceased 
shipmates, who had fallen before the forts on shore. 

The following are the official reports from Commodore Downes 
to the secretary of the navy, in relation to this transaction. 

" United States frigate Potdknac, 1 
"off S00-800, Coast of Sumatra, Februaiy 17th, 1832. \ 

" Sir, 

'^ I have the honour to acquaint you with the arrival of the 
Potomac on this coast upon the fifth inst. ; I anchored off Quallah- 
Battoo, distant about three miles ; my object in so doing being to 
prevent discovery of the character of the ship, which I had taken 
care previously to dis/;ruise, and so effectually, that a number of 
fishermen who came on board after I had apchored, did not dis- 
cover that she was other than a merchant ship, until they came 
over the side. They were detained on board till after the capture 
of Quallah-Battoo. 

" Finding no vessels on the coast, I could obtain no information 
in addition to that already possessed respecting the nature of the 
government, the piratical character of the population, or the fla- 
grant circumstances of the injury done to the Friendship. 

" No demand of satisfaction was made previous to my attack, 
because I was satisfied, firom what knowledge I had already of 
the character of the people, tliat no such demand would be an- 
swered, except by refusals, and that such refusals would proceed 
from want of ability, as well as from inclination, it being a habit 
generally among this people to spend their money as soon as ob- 
tained. 

" Soon after anchoring. Lieutenants Shubrick, Pinkham, Hoff, 
IngersoU, and Edson of marines, together with Passed-midship- 
man Totten, went on shore in the whale-boat, for the purpose 
of learning the situation of the town and forts ; but every thing 
being built in close concealment, they were unable to arrive at any 
satisfactory result, except as to one of the forts erected immedi- 
ately at the place of landing. 

" No precautions were taken to cut off the opportunity of es- 
cape from any inhabitants of the town, the nature of the place 
rendering it absolutely impossible, situated as it is, in the midst 



?: 



1832.] OiTICIAL DOCUMENTS. 115 

of wood and jungle, impenetrable, except by private passages, 
known only to the natives. 

^* As soon as it became sufficiently dark to prevent our move- 
ments from discovery by the people on shore, the boats were 
hoisted out, and every preparation made for landing, which was 
effected about daybreak of the sixth inst. The party under the 
command of Lieutenant Shubrick consisted of two hundred and 
fifty men. 

'* I adopted this mode of enforcing our demands, in hopes of 
getting possession of the rajahs, by surrounding and surprising 
the forts in which they xisually reside, and thus, most probably, in- 
ducing the payment of money for their ransom. I regret to say, 
however, that in consequence of their desperate fighting, neither 
giving nor receiving quarter, no prisoners were made, nor was 
any property found belonging to the Friendship, save the medicine 
chest. 

^' Lieutenant Shubrick has my warmest acknowledgments for 
the able and gallant manner in which he conducted the expedition, 
and I enclose herewith that gentleman's report, wherein he gives 
a detailed account of the attack, together with other particulars. 
[See Appendix.] 

" The midshipmen who were on shore and engaged in the ac- 
tion, but name^ by Lieutenant Shubrick, were William May, in 
the first division under Lieutenant Pinkham ; Messrs. Alonzo B. 
Davis, James G. Stanley, and Charles W. Morris, of the second 
division, commanded by Lieutenant Hoff; arid of the third di- 
vision under command of Lieutenant Ingersoll, Messrs. Charles 
Hunter, Eugene Boyle, and James L. Parker, with Midshipman 
George T. Sinclair in the laimch. 

" Their gallantry and good conduct in the action are spoken of 
as deserving the highest praise. In consequence of the fort situ- 
ated south of the river having fired upon our men while attacking 
Quallah-Battoo, I ran in with the ship and fired about three broad- 
sides into it, .when a white flag was hoisted ; upon this I ceased 
firing, soon after got under way, and stood for this anchorage, where 
I am taking on board wood and water. 

" While lying here, a flag of truce has been sent off from 
Quallah-Battoo ; and I was informed by the bearer of the same, 
that a great many had been killed on shore, and that all the prop* 

h2 



116 voTAGs OP THE POToiMc [February, 

orty had been destroyed. He begged thfit I would grant them 
peace. I stated to him that I had been sent to demand restitution 
of the property taken from the Friendship, and to insist on the 
punishment of those persons who were concerned in the outrage 
committed on the individuals of that«kip. 

<< Finding it impossible to effect either object, I said to him, that 
I was satisfied with what had already been done, and I granted 
them the peace for which they begged. I at the same time as- 
sured him, that if forbearance should not be exercised hereafter 
from committing piracies and murders upon American citizens, 
other ships of war would be despatched to inflict upon them fur- 
ther punishment. 

'^ SeTeral rajahs, frt>m towns in the vicinity, have visited my 
ship, and others who are distant have sent deputations to me. All 
of them have declared their friendly disposition towards the 
Americans, and their desire to obtain our friendship. Corre- 
sponding assurances were given on my part, and they left the ship 
apparently weU satisfied. 

'^ Having wood and water, and refreshed my crew, I shall leave 
here to-morrow for Batavia. 

" I have the honour to be, very respectfully^ 

" Your obdient servant, 
(Signed) "JoH|f Downes. 

** The Honcmiable LeTt Woodbuiy, Secretaiy of the Navy." 

Though deviating from the chronological course of events, still 
it seems more proper, in this place, to insert the following corre- 
spondence :— 

" Navy Department, July 16th, 1838. 

" Sir, 

"Your letters, dated twenty-sixth of August, sixteenth of Sep- 
tember, twentieth, twenty-ninth, and thirty-first of October, and 
eleventh of December, 1831 ; seventeenth of February, and eleventh 
and twelfth of March, 1832, have all been received. 

" The president regrets that you were not able, before attacking 
the Malays at Quallah-Battoo, to obtain there, or near, fuller in- 
fonnation of the particulars of their outrage on the Friendship, 
and of the character and political relations of the aggressors. 



1632.] l«r»ICIAIi DOCUMBNT8. 117 

'' It was desirable, also, that a preyious demand should have 
been made for restitution and indemnification ; as, whether neces- 
sary or not on principles of national law, it would have furnished 
the most favourable opportunity for success in obtaining redress, 
and would have tended to lemoye any complaint in any quarter, 
on account of die nature and consequences of the attack. 

^' On every circumstance, influencing your judgment to dispense 
with these, he wishes the fullest infonnation, since it may here- 
after become material. 

'' At the same time, the president wishes me to express his 
highest commendation for the coolness, firmness, and skill, evinced 
by yourself, officers, and men, in the whole attack ; and hopes that 
the best consequences to our trade and national character will re- 
sult from it, in that region of the world. 

" Respectfully, your' obedient servant, 

" Levi Woodbuky. 

" Commodore John Downes, 
« Commanding U. S. Squadron, Pacific Ocean. 



4 



<< U. S. Frigate Potomac, Callao, Idth Feb., 1838. 

"Sir, 

" I have the honour to acknowledge the receipt of your letter, 
bearing date the sixteenth of July, 1832; containing the wish of 
the president, that I would communicate all the circumstances 
which influenced my judgment in directing the manner of attack 
on the town of Quallah-Battoo. 

" I was directed in my instructions, on arriving at the island of 
Sumatra, to obtain from the inteUigent shipmasters, supercargoes, 
and others engaged in American trade in that neighbourhood, 
such information as they possessed in relation to the nature of the 
government there, the piratical character of the population, and 
the flagrant circumstances of the injuries before-mentioned. 

" The above were the only sources of information to which I 
was referred in my instructions, and in reference to which I stated, 
in my communication to the department dated February seven- 
teenth, 1832, that finding no vessel on the coast, I could obtain 
no information in addition to that already possessed respecting 
the nature of the government, &c. &c. 

" There were other sources of information, however, to which 






118 VOYAGE OP THE potohac. [Febmary, 

I had access ; but, not coming within the range of those pointed 
out in my instructions, I did not deem it necessary to refer to them 
in my official report above alluded to ; at present, however, it 
may be proper to do so. 

'' At Rio de Janeiro, I obtained such information relative to 
the character of the people of Quallah-Battoo as went strongly 
to impress me with the opinion, that a demand made on the rajahs, 
previous to my getting them into my power, or to taking any steps 
towards cutting off the retreat of the participators in the outrage 
conmiitted on the Friendship, must have led to an utter defeat of 
the expedition. 

" At the Cape of Good Hope I made known the object of my 
visit to the island of Sumatra, to the officers highest in rank, both 
in the army and in the navy. These officers had resided a long 
time in India, and several of them had been on the coast of Su- 
matra, and were well acquainted with the Malay character. 

" By the representations of these gentlemen, the natives were 
cruel and treacherous on all parts of the coast, and by no means 
to be trusted; they represented Quallah-Battoo as independent 
of, and not subject to, any' regular government ; and as to indem- 
nification, it seemed quite out of the question ; as the inhabitants 
could, on the slightest alarm, or from motives of policy, retire and 
conceal themselves, and what tangible treasure they possessed, 
beyond the reach of our guns, and beyond the possibility of pur- 
suit ; as the whole country bordering the seashore, and a few 
miles inland, is covered by a close, and, except to themselves, 
an impenetrable jungle. 

" I was advised to proceed with the greatest caution, as they 
assured me that the character of the Malays of Sumatra was 
generally but Uttle understodd ; that they were cunning and brave, 
and by no means to be despised as enemies. 

" In confirmation of all this, they communicated to me the 
particulars of the British expedition, which had been sent against 
a tribe on the west coast of Siunatra, but a short distance south 
of Quallah-Battoo. The squadron approached the anchorage, 
the object and force of the expedition were known to the natives, 
and they as soon retired, leaving the place to be taken and burned 
by the disembarking force without opposition. The attacking 
party, holding tlieir enemies in too much contempt, did not take 



i- * 



/ 



r ^5^- 'ft'-' 



^ 



■ 9 




2882.] t>FFICIAL JDOCTTMENTS. 119 

the necessary precaution to prevent surprise ; and the conse- 
quence was, that the Malays sallied from their secret places, and 
cut off and destroyed the English divisions to a man. 

'^ In addition to this, I learned that the natives had made several 
recent attempts to cut off vessels, and that the Quallah-Battooans^ 
in particular, were notoriously the greatest pirates on the coast of 
Sumatra ; that they even extended their depredations to the coast 
of Java, where they were never known to spare man, woman, or 
child, which had unfortimately fallen into their hands. 

" Such was the character of these people, as derived from sources 
entitled to my highest confidence ; such it was represented to me, 
at a subsequent period, while in Batavia ; and such the whole of 
my own personal observations have confirmed it to be. 

*' In addition to my instructions, these were the lights I had to 
guide me in my operations, on the still imperfectly known coast 
of Sumatra', and its still less perfectly known inhabitants. I felt 
the full weight of my responsibility, and even a painful anxiety to 
merit the approbation and meet the reasonable expectations of 
my country. I could not believe, for a moment, that my govern- 
ment despatched a vessel of such dimensions, to a point so dis- 
tant, and through seas so dangerous, without attaching to her 
movements expectations of national importance. 

" The knowledge I had acquired of the character of the people 
against whom I had to operate, left me no room to doubt, that a 
movement prompt and efficient in its character could alone carry 
with it the least possible hopes of success ; to approach that 
coast, and to make that movement, was a task neither light nor 
easy of execution ; what I had to do I knew must be done quickly. 
The coast was to be made, the town approached, and the charac*' 
ter of the vessel concealed ; a landing effected through a danger- 
ous surf, and the place surrounded, before the Malays could pene- 
trate our true character, or know the object of our visit. 

"The intelligence brought by the party sent to reconnoitre, 
showed but loo clearly what must have been the result of a dis- 
erabarcation in the day. It must have ended ip one of two ways; 1 
either the natives would have fled, leaving their empty hutt,/*, 
which, if destroyed, could have been in short time rebuilt ; oCf 
they would from forts, and from their jungles, have severely an*' 
noyed, if not totally defeated, our light divisions. In either caie 






■ ^ 

120 VOYAGE OF TH£ POTOKAC. [Februaiyi 

we must have been virtually defeated, and an impression left on 
the inhabitants that we had not the power to punish them for out- 
rages committed on our commerce. 

*' In such a case the defeat would have been more complete, as 
there was no higher authority or government to which we could 
make our appeal, and from which we could expect indemnification. 
Indeed, within a short distance, there were other tribes and chiefs 
separate and independent of those of Quallah-Battoo. 

" While making arrangements to open a communication with the 
chiefs, and to make a formal demand of indemnification, I felt it 
to be my imperative duty to take such steps at the same time as 
would cut off the retreat of those who had participated in the pi- 
racy of the Friendship ; and while in the execution of the only 
feasible plan by which these objects could be effected, our di- 
visions were fired on, and our strength put at defiance ; the action 
was thus unavoidably commenced ; aiid, as to its result, I need only 
refer you to my previous communication^ 

" I ascertained, after the attack, that the whole inhabitants of 
Quallah-Battoo were concerned in the plunder of the Friendship, 
and that the character of the transaction agreed substantially with 
that furnished by the department, marked A and B. The specie 
and opium had been divided between the four principal rajahs ; 
and ail the other articles taken from the ship were distributed 
among the people of Quallah-Battoo. 

" All the intercourse I had with the natives while lying at Soo- 
soo, confirmed me in the correctness of the course adopted ; and 
also that the chastisement inflicted on Quallah-Battoo, though 
severe, was unavoidable and just ; and that it will be the means 
of giving a permanent security to our conunerce for a long thne 

to come. 

" I am, sir, vrith the greatest respect, 

"Your obedient servant, 
(Signed) "John Downbs. 

'<T^ Hooounble Len Woodbury, Secretary of the Navy.'* 



I832.J BOMBARDMENT. 121 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Bombardment of Taca de Lama — ^The Malays ask a Truce— Alann of the m- 
habitants of Soo-soo — ^The friendly Rajah, Po Adam, relieves their apprehensions 
— ^Embassy of submission from the Malays of Quallah-Battoo— The Conunodore's 
admonition to them, interpreted by Po Adam — ^The Potomac anchors at Soo-soo 
to procure water — Precautions against a surprise — ^Po Adam's friendship for the 
Americans, and consequent losses — His character, dress, and personal appearance 
— ^His allegiance to the King of Achecn — Outrage of the king*s brother — Po 
Adam^s retaliation — His wives — Astonishment of the Malays on inspecting the 
force of the Potomac — ^Interchange of presents — Ceremony of killing a buffalo. 

That nothing should be left undone to leave an indelible im- 
pression on the minds of these people, of the power of the United 
States to inflict punishment for aggressions committed on her 
commerce, in seas however distant, the ship was got under way 
the following morning, and brought to, with a spring on her cablci 
within less than a mile of the shore, when the larboard side was 
brought to bear nearly upon the site of the town. 

The object of the commodore, in this movement, was not to 
open an indiscriminate or destructive fire upon the town and in- 
habitants of Quallah-Battoo, but to show them the irresistible 
power of thirty-two pound shot, and to reduce the fort of Tuca 
de Lama, which could not be reached on account of the jungle 
and stream of water, on the morning before ; 'and from which a 
fire had been opened and .continued during the embarcation of the 
men into their boats, on their return to the ship. 

The policy of this measure cannot be too highly appreciated, 
when it is remembered that these people, while practising their 
piracies, or watching every favourable opportunity to capture ships 
trading with them, were frequently told by our captains that out- 
iH'eakings or violence on their part would most assuredly cause 
the government of America to send out an adequate force to pun- 
ish them ; and that there was always a disposable one, ready to 
perform such service. At this idea they always tossed their heads 
in a contemptuous manner, exclaiming with a loud laugh, *^ 



122 VOYAGE OF THE POTOMAC. [Febmary, 

can ship big gun ! no have got big gun American ship." One of 
the rajahs, when Mr. Barry was endeavouring to convince him 
that the people, and the great rajah of his country, possessed large 
ships, loaded with nothing but guns, powder, and shot, and having 
hundreds of men on board, for the purpose of redressing the 
wrongs done to his people abroad, laughed in his face most heartily, 
and replied, that he had spoken a falsehood. Mr. Barry insisted 
that what he had stated was true ; when the rajah again replied, 
that it could not be so. If we had ships which he could not take 
with his sampans and proas, " why had they never been on the 
coast ?" The prevalence of this belief is not to be wondered at. 
American trade on that coast had been carried on for nearly forty 
years, without the shadow of protection from the arm of govern- 
ment ; while other nations, whose trade did not amount to one 
tenth of our own, had sent armed vessels to look after it. 

From the manner in which the Potomac was disguised, and her 
previous distance from the shore, the natives could not, until her 
firing had actually commenced, have formed the most distant idek 
of the tremendous eflFect of thirty-two pound shot, when discharged 
from a gun of that calibre. , 

The fort of Tuca de Lama was very soon deserted, while the 
shot was cutting it to pieces, and tearing up whole cocoa-trees 
around it by tlie roots. 

In performing this service, there was a fine opportunity of ob- 
serving the great proficiency the crews of the guns had made in that 
highly important part of their profession, loading and firing. Though 
the cannonade was brisk and constant for more than half an hour, 
not the most trifling accident occurred, and the shots were directed 
against De Lama's fort with great precision. When silence had 
been commanded, and the firing ceased, the Malays embraced the 
opportunity to exhibit, in conspicuous places along the shore, white 
flags ; that colour being considered among them a signal for 
peace. 

The commodore was pleased to see this movement on their 
part ; and, believing that they would not very soon deny " that the 
Americans had big ships and large guns," directed an answer- 
ing flag of white to be hoisted at the mainmast head, and the 
batteries to be secured. 

It appears that the rajahs of Quallah-Battoo had some diffi- 



1832.J INTERVIEW WITU THE RAJAHS. 1S8 

culty of a serious nature with the people of Soo-soo or Pulo Kio, 
and that both parties were ready to commence hostilities at the 
slightest provocation;. and we have since learned that it was 
principally owing to this cause, that the forts were in so good a 
state of defence, and had so many well-armed Malays to defend 
them, at the time of the attack by the divisions from the Potomac. 

In a former chapter it has been mentioned that Soo-soo was 
but a few miles to the southward and eastward of Quallah-Battoo 
and the establishments and fort of the friendly rajah, Po Adam, 
at the head of a small cove called Pulo Kio, or Woody Island ; 
the little promontory resembling an island when viewed from 
the sea. 

These people, dreading lest they might be considered as hav- 
ing been participators in the late offence of their neighbourSi 
would probably have fled to their forts and their jungles, had 
not Po Adam assured them that his prediction, the fulfilment of 
which they had so long doubted, was now in truth coming to pass ; 
that the great rajah of America had now sent a big ship to punish 
those who had robbed and murdered his people. 

So much influence over their minds and feelings did he exer- 
cise, that they witnessed the cannonade without the slightest ap- 
prehension of the guns being turned in their direction ; indeed, 
many of them came out some distance in their proas around a 
point, in order to have a better view of the bombardment- of De 
Lama's fort. 

In the course of the afternoon, a boat came ofi" from the shore 
bearing a flag of truce to the commodore, beseeching him, in all 
the practised forms of submission common to the east, that he 
would grant them peace, and cease to fire his big guns. , He 
seemed to be fully aware of the object of his visit, and of the 
enormity of their ofience, as they not only asked to be forgiven 
for past errors and offences, but most solemnly promised, in the 
name of the people who had sent them, that no further outrages 
should ever be committed by them on our commerce. 

In bidding them be more at their ease, and giving them assu- 
rance that hostilities had now ceased, the commodore directed them 
to say to the remaining rajahs and people of Quallah-Battoo, and 
all others with whom they had any intercourse on the whole coast, 
that the object of his government in sending him to their shores 



.♦ 



»? 



4 



1S4 TOTAGB OF THE POTOMAC [February, 

had now been consummated in the punishment of the guilty, who 
had conmiitted their piracies on the Friendship; that they must 
now be cautious of the misconceptions they had formed of the 
naval power of his country, and how reckless and inconsiderate they 
must be ever again to provoke that power. Though he had taken 
their town, it was instantly restored to them ; as it formed no part 
of the poUcy of his government to make conquest, and form estab- 
Ushments in foreign ports. That his countrymen would still con- 
tinue to visit their ports, and trade with them, as they had done 
before ; and that, while they conducted themselves with justice 
and humanity, they need be under no apprehension of future 
attacks from the big ships of his country; but in case they 
should, either here, or at any other port on the coast, be guilty of 
cutting off another of the merchant ships of his country, they 
might rest perfectly assured that punishment, though for a time 
delayed, would fall upon them at a moment perhaps when they 
least expected it. 

Po Adam was the interpreter during this interview, which was 
conducted with the greatest solemnity, and seemed to sink deeply 
into the minds of these ambassadors of peace. It is hoped the i 

effect may be for good. Their astonishment on getting a view of 
the ship's batteries, masts, and rigging, seemed very great ; and 
no doubt, the account they bore to their companions on shore of 
the wonderful engines of destruction they had seen, will have a 
salutary influence in preventing outbreakings among them; as 
fear is the only restraint to a people who acknowledge no moral 
obligations. 

By way of a peace-offering, they had brought off a number of 
cocoanuts, a quantity of sugarcane, and fruits of various kinds ; 
which, being received by the commodore, they were dismissed to 
return on shore. 

At six A.M., on the morning of the eighth, the Potomac was 
under way from the place where she had come to anchor on the 
evening before, and stood for Soo-soo, with a light wind from the 
northward and eastward. This distance, like other portions of 
the coast, was run entirely by the guidance of the lead; the 
numerous and dangerous coral reefs making this precaution ne- 
cessary for a vessel drawing so great a depth of water. At eight 
A. M., the anchor was let go in twenty-seven fathoms, Quallah- 









\ - 



i-i: 



1833.] WATERING PARTY. 125 

I 

Battoo bearing north-by-west-half-west ; Pulo Kio, northeast-by- 
north ; and Sop-soo, northeast-by-east-half-east. 

Lieutenant Wilson was immediately despatched on shore in the 
launch, attended by a suitable guard, to make arrangements for 
watering the ship; bearing withfaim a flag of truce. He found 
corresponding white flags flying in several places along the shore ; 
and having met with no difficulties in making arrangements for 
getting ofi* water, before noon he returned on board. 

At the place of watering, the river is enclosed between twa 
abrupt banks of sand ; the northwest side answering the double 
purpose of confining the river to its bed, and of forming tlie httle 
bay of Soo-soo upon the other. The launch and third cutter 
were the boats put in requisition for this service ; the superior 
officers, in turn, taking charge of them, protected at all times by 
an armed guard, besides the launch, bearing in her a six-pounder, 
which the sailors declared was own cousin to Betsey Baker, that 
had behaved so well a morning or two before, at Quallah, and to 
which they had given the name of Miss Polly Hopkins. The 
boats, as there was some surf upon the beach, more particularly 
when the Seabreeze sets in, were necessarily moored, with a 
grapnel seaward and a rope upon the shore. The distance from 
Uie shore of the bay across to the river is about thirty yards. 
Elevated upon some casks, the hose-tube was placed securely^ 
and the hose led to the boats, which were moored outside the 
surf; a few hands being left in the boats to attend to the fillings 
The party on shore waded into the river, carrying the water in 
buckets and pouring it into the hose-tube, which being elevated 
five or six feet in the distance of twenty yards, the water glided 
rapidly into the casks in the boats. 

While this duty was going on, the Malays collected in large 
numbers on the banks of the river, armed, as usual, with krisses 
and long knives, and watching with much apparent curiosity this 
method of watering. 

It was soon ascertained that many of these spectators were from 
Quallah-Battoo ; and as the natives of Sumatra are so famed for 
cunning, fickleness, and treachery, it was thought they might 
possibly, under present excitement, seek any favourable opportu- 
nity that might ofier to renew hostilities with any unguarded 
portion of the watering party. This, however, was not probable. 



126 VOYAGE OF THE POTOMAC. [Februaiy, 

as they must have observed the party well armed for defence ; 
for, besides a guard of marines, there was Miss Polly Hopkins 
keeping a steady eye upon the multitude, under the inmiediate 
direction of a midshipman. 

Po Adam, the friendly rajah, was, during this time, nearly a 
constant visiter on board ; distinguished at all times for an inde- 
pendent bearing and manly deportment. He seemed not the least 
elevated on account of his present reception on board the frigate ; 
though he could not conceal, and indeed often expressed, the 
satisfaction he felt at her arrival, " authorized by what he had long 
considered to be a powerful nation, a part of whose duty he, Po 
Adam, felt assured, was to do justice to his motives ; and that his 
acts with regard to the Friendship had been- approved by the gov- 
ernment and people from whom she came. His fort at Kio is 
strong, and well manned by his vassals and hired adherents, who, 
for a small stipend in money, some dried fish and rice, with an 
occasional quid of opium, were always to astaiid by and defend 
him." 

Po Adam, in stature, is rather below the middle size, and though 
his forehead is rather retiring, his eyes bespeak a mind ever 
awake to all that is passing around him. One feature in the face 
of this intelligent and high-minded rajah is very peculiar, as being 
so materially different from that of the generality of his country- 
men ; and that is, a finely formed aquiline nose ; a feature which 
most of his countrymen have so clumsily wrought upon their faces, 
that any beauties they may otherwise possess, are, in most in- 
stances, thrown into the shade. Though his mt)uth is rather wide, 
his lips are thin, teeth strong and regular, and of shining ebony 
blackness, produced by a constant chewing of the betele-nut ; a 
practice to which all his countrymen are inveterately addicted, 
and of which they are very fond, on account of the slight exhil- 
arating effect it produces. Their principal stimulus (never using 
spirits) is opium, an article of trade which has entered largely into 
the transactions of the coast in the purchase of pepper. Like the 
rest of his countrymen, he always went barefoot, and his dress 
consisted merely of a pair of short white cotton trowsers, put on 
over a pair of drawers ; a shirt without a collar, made of the 
same texture ; and a long, rich silk sash around his loins, which 
not only supplied the place of suspenders, but also that of a belt 



1832.] po ADAM. 127 

for an enormous kris^ the bl^de of which was of the finest polished 
steel, and the handle and scabbard of the finest gold, bespcuigled 
with diamonds. 

This intelligent, and, in all respects, remarkable rajah, seemed 
to pride himself that he was a native of the city of Acheen. The 
king of this city considers many of the tribes and inhabitants of 
tlie island, particularly of the west coast, tributary to hin^, and 
liege subjects of his crown ; but this pretension and this power, 
as will be seen hereafter, are but the shadow without the sub- 
stance. No one respects his power, nor holds himself tributary 
.when he can, by any means, even by force, resist tlie collection 
of revenue, which is occasionally demanded and enforced in 
proportion to the power of the crown ; the principal revenue or 
tribute to the crown being, however, by one means or another, 
collected from the pepper coast. The king has several vessels 
of war carrying guns of small calibre, which are sent along the 
coast every year to receive the per centage on the sales of pepper. 
The system of administering the revenue laws may be inferred 
from the following circumstance of an interesting character, which 
we received from an authentic source. 

During the month of August, following the capture of the 
Friendship, the brother of the King of Acheen visited, among 
other places, the port of Quallah-Battoo, for the annual collection 
of dues ; intending, of coiu'se, to demand of Po Adam liis tax, 
when matters should be settled with the Rajah of Quallah. The 
vice-king, however, had scarcely arrived, when the rajah and people 
of that place hastened to inform him of the part Po Adam had 
taken in the late afiair of the captured ship ; stating, that had it not 
been for his interference, they would have had it in their power 
to have presented their sovereign, the King of Acheen, with a fine 
vessel, taken firom the Americans. The vice-king, for so he was 
called, was there in command of a schooner of one hundred 
tons, carrying twelve six-pounders, and a crew of sixty men. He 
appeared greatly incensed at the loss his brother had sustained, 
and threatened immediate vengeance on Adam, as the author of 
this disappointment. He seized the moment when Adam was 
absent as an agent for a French brig, seeking a cargo oi pepper 
(he would hardly have dared so much had this gallant rajah been 
at home ; but now there was no danger), and proceeded, with his 



128 VOYAGE o¥ THB POTOMAC. [Fehraary, 

ressel, to Pulo Kio; came to an anchor within pistol-shot of 
Adam's fort, and inquired of the persons left in charge, amoimting 
to not more than ten or twelve eflfective men, if they intended any 
resistance ; and having been answered in the negative, this chival- 
rous representative of his royal brother landed without opposition, 
and commenced an indiscriminate plunder of goods and chattels 
of all kinds that came within his reach. Indeed, he stripped the 
fort and dwelling of Adam of every thing valuable ; the whole 
amounting to not less than four thousand dollars. From such 
conduct on the part of the vice-king, may be judged with what 
hopes of success a demand might have been ifiade of the King 
of Acheen himself, for indeomification for the robbery of the 
Fineiidship ; with what hopes that the assassins of her crew 
might have been brought to punishment. 

On the return of Po Adam, which happened a few days after 
this event, he lost no time in useless repining, but at once set 
about putting his fort in the best possible order of defence, and 
quietly awaited the return of the schooner. This happened in 
the course of a few weeks, when she was allowed peaceably to 
come to anchor within musket-shot of his fort. Adam had every 
thing prepared, and not having the fear of royalty before his eyes, 
opened a fire from four iron six-pounders, the only guns which 
had been left him. This attack was so unexpected, that the vice- 
king instantly deserted his vessel, and fled in his boat, and the 
remainder of his officers and men followed his example ; some 
took to their boats, while others jumped overboard and swam to 
the shore. Adam continued his fire until all hands were clear of 
her, and then going on board and cutting her cable, allowed her to 
drift on a coral reef not far from the shore, where she was stripped 
of many articles, and afterward went to pieces on the rocks. He 
seemed to be under no apprehension that the King of Acheen 
would ever molest him for the opposition he had so successfully 
made to resist his authority. 

It being remarked to him one day, that in consequence of the 
friendly manifestations he had evinced towards the Americans, 
the rajah of the adjacent ports might be induced to combine in a 
crusade for the purpose of destroying him, his reply was in broken 
English ; '^ Suppose he come, me make fight ; suppose he kill 
Po Adam now, one no can die morrow morning." 



1832.] po ADAM. 129 

In common with the custom of the country, cimong those who 
can afford it, it appears Adam had indulged in a plurality of wives ; 
but had it not been for Mr. Barry, who knew the fact, he would 
have impressed all present with the belief that he had but one. 
Within a twelvemonth past one of his wives had died, and instead 
of contracting other alliances, he pretended that the only one now 
remaining lived with him in the fort. When questioned how this 
could be possible, as he had frequently been seen putting up little 
packages with great care, and sending them to a female in Acheen 
by the coasting vessels — ^this was bringing the subject too close 
for Adam to escape, and he frankly acknowledged that such was 
the fact, and that he had another wife in the Imperial City. He 
laughingly admitted that it was a very impolite and bad custaQf^ 
and that if one or two more were to die, he would most assuredly 
adopt the American system, and have but one. 

The reason, philosophy, and religion of Po Adam on this sub^ 
ject, differed nothing from his whole sect, judging the plurality of 
wives a matter to be decided entirely by the rank of the person 
and his means to maintain them. Many of their marriage cus*" 
toms, laws, and festivities are curious, and worthy of being re-^ 
curred to in another chapter. For instance : " If a younger sister" 
be first married, the husband pays six dollars, add at pelilloof 
for passing over the elder." Thus it would appear, that the cu8-« 
toms of occasionally selecting the younger, as practised in Chris* 
tian coimtries, is discouraged among the Sumatrans by a protect- 
ing duty in favour of the elder. 

Upon the whole, taking all things into consideration, therei 
seems to be much to interest one in the character of Po Adam 5 
and when we reflect, that besides his recent losses, he had not less 
than two thousand dollars worth of property on board the Friend-* 
ship when captured, it would seem a matter of some regret that 
our government had not made him a present, though it had only 
been a gilded toy, as a testimony of their approbation of hid 
conduct. 

It was thought he felt this, though he expressed no dissatisfac- 
tion, and seemed much pleased with his reception and treatment 
on board the Potomac. He received, however, a number of 
presents from the commodore and officers ; and there is no doubt 
that his feelings of friendship for the Americans were much 



130 VOYAGE OP THB POTOMAC. [Febroarjr, 

strengthened, and will continue to be useful to our countrymen 
trading on that part of tbe pepper coast. 

Through his agency, buffaloes, the only species of cattle they 
rear, were procured, together with vegetables, — such as pumpkins, 
yams, and sweet-potatoes, in sufficient quantities for the whole 
crew ; fowls were also procured for about eight cents apiece. 

All these were embarked from Soo-soo, the watering-place; 
besides, sampans were constantly going and coming, loaded with 
fowls, cocoanuts, pumpkins, squashes, sugarcane, and every 
variety of tropical fruit. 

It is difficult to describe the apparent astonishment of these 
people on first passing over the. ship's sides on board ; every thing 
was new to them, and on a scale of which they had no previous 
adequate conception. They were permitted to roam at will over 
all parts of the vessel ; but the tremendous batteries seemed to 
be the objects of their greatest wonderment, and on them they 
fixed their eyes with imwavering attention ; and well might they 
be astonished, for here they saw within a small compass a mighty 
engine of destruction, before which all the armed proas, schooners, 
and brigs of the whole coast and Acheen, might be scattered as 
the dry sand before the fierce Echnephia. 

At this time the brig OHve, of Boston, arrived, seeking a cargo 
of pepper, which, to Po Adam, was very exhilarating news, as she 
had with her for sale guns, anununition, and long knives. He ac- 
knowledged the probability that serious allegations might be 
brought against him after the departure of the Potomac, and felt 
the necessity of being prepared to meet them. Of the same ves- 
sel he purchased a quantity of opiiun. 

But Po Adam, besides being a rajah, had been considered a 
priest. At his request the commodore consented that the bufialoes 
fiunished for the vessel might be slaughtered on shore, in order 
that the poor of his dependants should avail themselves of the 
offal, which would not be used if the animal were dressed on 
board. 

When the boats went on shore at daylight in the morning for 
water, a buffalo was found, tied to a cocoanut-tree, and Adam in 
attendance, ready to perform the part of executioner. 

The animal was so restive and wild, that the Malays were afraid 
to approach it. The officer in charge growing weary of the de- 



1832.] PO ADAM. 131 

lay occasioned by the awkwardness and timidity of the natiyes, 
ordered the animal to be shot in the head, and dressed by the men 
of his own party. The head, feet, and offal were left on shore ; 
but the Malays would not touch an article of them, because, as it 
afterward appeared, the animal had been put to death by the " un- 
faithful." On the following morning, Adam was indulged in his 
own way of managing this business. The animal was made fast, 
as the day previous, and much time was taken in getting the head 
in a right direction. The animal moved, and again he was seized, 
and his head carefully pointed towards Mecca, when it was deemed 
lawful to kill him. These superstitions being thus far complied 
with, there was no further scruple manifested in appropriating to 
themselves, with keen appetites, such parts as had been allotted |9 

them. 

i2 




182 voTAOE OP THE poToiuc. [Fehtmij, 



CHAPTER IX. 

BaaaJtnj the Ophir of Solomon — ^Described by Marco Pttlo — ^Vinted by the Anbs 
— Discorered bj the Portogaesa — Size and location — ^Face of the country— 
Mountaina, riTera, lakea, dec. — Climate and temperature— Monaoona and other 
winds— Soil, minerala, metals, organic remains, dtc.^Yolcanoea and earthquakes 
— Origin of the inhabitanta — Several distinct races — ^Description of their persona, 
dress, and ornaments— Effects of climate on character — Illustrated by the Esqui- 
maux, the Li^>lander, and the Arab— The useful arts in Sumatra — ^Villages, 
koiisea, furniture, and food — Predoctions of the animal kingdom — Manner of cul- 
tivating pepper, trees, spices, gum8,'dE«. 

There is, perhaps, on no part of the globe, a spot of equal di- 
mensions and geographical importance, which is so little known 
to- Americans as the Island of Sumatra; and yet this island was 
once the seat of a powerful empire, and here was held the court 
of one of the most wealthy monarchs of the east. On the north- 
western extremity of the island is situated the capital of Acheen, 
at that time the great emporium of oriental commerce and riches ; 
and here met the enterprising merchants of the then western world, 
to barter and traffic for the precious merchandise of the Indian 
Archipelago. Here the all-grasping Portuguese, whose conquests 
in the Indian Ocean had lent a terror to their name, were bravely 
met, and frequently repulsed by the powerful monarch of Acheen, 
and made to tremble in their turn. The Dutch followed the Por- 
tuguese, and fought hard for a monopoly in the valuable trade of 
the island. But from neither of these nations has the world ever 
derived much information of the interior of the island, or of its 
history. Even the English had traded nearly a century with its 
inhabitants, before any tolerably correct account of them had been 

published. 

There is no positive evidence that Sumatra was known to the 

ancients ; as the knowledge of the Roman geographers did not, 

probably, carry them beyond the island of Ceylon, The idea of 

Sumatra being the land of Ophir, whither Solomon sent his fleets 

for the precious metals, is too vague even for conjecture ; and the 

mountain beaiing the name on the island was doubtless given to 



s » 



1832.] ISLAND OF SUMATRA. 133 

it by modem writers. In the original Hebrew, the wordaignifies 
€tshes^ It is generally supposed that the Arabians first discovered 
Sumatra, about the year 1173, and gave to it the name of 
Ranmi. The writings of the great Venetian traveller, Marco 
Paulo, published in the year 1269, and so long looked upon as 
fabulous, do, nevertheless, bear many internal evidences of bemg 
descriptive of this island. It was the Portuguese, however, in 
their expedition to the east, under the conunand of Alphonso d6 
Albuquerque, in the year 1510, who first gave to Sumatra its 
place upon the charts, and made its actual enstence known to the 
rest of the world. 

Sumatra, which is one of the largest islands on the globe, is the 
most westerly of that group called by geographers Sunda Islands. 
It is computed to be more than nine hundred miles, in length, and' 
from one hundred to one hundred and fifty in breadth. But though 
this island, as we have said, was known to the Arabian voyagers 
before the completion of the twelfth century, and has since that 
period been so much frequented by the Portuguese, Dutch, £iig- 

* Among other arguments which have been adduced in £BiTOTir of Sumatra and 
Ophir being the same, we recollect the following : — ^In the days of Peleg, the sixth 
from Noah, ** the earth was diTided*' between the patriarch's then numerous de- 
scendants. Among the diTisions, it is written, speaking of the sons of JlsMm oi 
Java, ^ Bj these were the isles of tiie Gentiles divided in their lands ; every one 
aAer his tongue, after their families in the nations." From this passage some 
writers infer, that the islands of Java and Sumatra might have fallen to the lot of 
'* the sons of JawmJ*'' They say that Peleg's brother Jocktan had thirteen sons^ 
one of whom he called Opiktr, and another Haimlak : — ** and their dwelling was from 
Mesha, as thou goest unto Sephar, a numrU of the east.** Whether this may be 
Mount Ophir, in Sumatra, is of course a mere matter of conjecture. The same 
sacred historian, in speaking of Havilah, adds — " where there is gold, and the gold 
of that land is good ; there is bdellium and the onyx stone." It was to Ophir that 
King Solomon sent a navy, buOt expressly for that purpose, on the shores of the 
Red Sea, which is an estuary of the Indian Ocean. This navy was manned by 
Hiram*s servants, '* shipmen that had knowledge of the sea," who were accom- 
panied by the servants of Solomon. ** And they came to Ophir, and fetched from 
thence gold, four hundred and twenty talents, and brought it to King Solomon.** 
" And the navy also of Hiram that brought gold from Ophir, brought in from Ophnr 
great plenty of almug-trees and precious stones.*' But notwithstanding this navy 
was manned by *' shipmen that had knowledge of the sea," the voyage to Ophir, 
wherever that country might be, occupied nearly three years : — " once in three yean 
came the navy of Tharshish, bringing gold and silver, ivory, and apes, and peacocks.** 
Sumatra, it will be seen, abounds with valuable trees, gold, ivory, i^ies, and the aigof 
pheasant, iar exceeding the peacock in the beanty of its plumage. 



!<• 



184 TOTAOB OF rtat POTOMAC. [Fabruaiy, 

lishy and latterly by our own countrymen ; yet its breadth in par- 
ticular has not been ascertained with that degree of accuracy, and 
m a sufficient number of places, to afford data from which the su- 
perficies of tlie island may be computed. As it is delineated on 
Blackford's chart of the China Sea, pubUshed in 1816, and which, 
he says, is '^ drawn from the best and latest authorities," its di- 
mensions far exceed those above-mentioned; for its greatest 
breadth, as there represented, being from Indrapoor Point on its 
southwest coast, across to the mouth of Dancer river on its 
southeast side, covers more than two hundred and fifty miles, ac- 
cording to his scale of degrees ; while its length, by the same 
computation, exceeds one thousand. 

The general direction of this elongated and comparatively at- 
tenuated island, is from northwest to southeast, extending across 
the equator, which divides it into two nearly equal parts : its north- 
western extremity, which is Acheen Head, being in latitude 6" S^ 
north, and its southeastern extremity, which is Hog Point, bound- 
ing the Strait of Sunda, in latitude 6** 56' south. Acheen Head 
is in longitude 95" 34' east, and Hog Point in 105' 50' east. Thus 
it tppears that the Island of Sumatra extends across more than 
eleven parallels of latitude, and more than ten meridians of lon- 
gitude. Its central point, which is directly on the equator, and 
is that of its greatest breadth, is in longitude 102'' east. Quallah- 
Battoo is in latitude 3' 20' north, longitude 96** 30' east. 

The whole of the southwest coast of Sumatra is washed by 
the waters of the great Indian Ocean; the northwestern point 
of the islcuid stretching into the Bay of Bengal. Its opposite or 
northeastern shore, or so much of it as lies in the northern hemi- 
sphere, forms one side of the Strait of Malacca, which separates 
the island from the Malay peninsula on the east ; while that por- 
tion of the same coast which extends into the southern hemi- 
sphere, is washed by waters flowing through the Straits of Sabon, 
Lingin, aQd Banca. The Strait of Malacca, at its northern en- 
trance, is about one hundred and fifty miles in width, but gradually 
contracts as it extends to the southeast, until the distance across, 
at its southern entrance, a little north of the equator, is less than 
forty miles.. Two degrees south of the equator, on the northeast 
of Sumatra, is the Island of Banca, and the strait of the same 
name. This island was ceded to the British in the year 1812, 






1832.] ISLANI^ OP SUMATRA. 135 

by the new Sultan of Palembang, and was then called the Puke 
of YorVs Island ; the tin of which has long been a source of much 
profit in the Japan market. The Malay peninsula, being the ejr^ 
treme southeast point of the Birman empire and of continental 
Asia, is the western boundary of the Gulf of Siam, east and north 
of which is the China Sea. 

The face of the country is very tmequal, broken, and irregular ; 
and along its western coast, within twenty or thirty miles of the 
shore, a chain of lofty mountains stretches from one end of the 
island to the other, like the coidilleras of the South American 
Andes. This chain is in some places separated into parallel 
ridges, and though not sufficiently elevated to be covered vrith 
indissoluble snow, often shoots up into aspiring volcanic cones, 
whose craters are continually breathing clouds of smoke, and 
at times vomit forth rivers of burning and consuming lava. 
Mount Ophir, situated immediately under the equator, is the 
highest on the island, and has been ascertained, by actual meas- 
urement, to be thirteen thousand eight hundred and fifty-two feet 
above the level of the sea, which is about two thirds the heij^ 
which is ascribed to the most elevated of the Andes, and MiMr 
what exceeding the Peak of Tenenfife. 

Between these ridges and mountains are many extensive and 
rich plains, so far elevated above the low lands of the coast as to 
give them a comparatively fine, cool, and healthy climate^ These 
plains are esteemed the most eligible portions of the country, and 
are by far the best improved and most thickly inhabited. Many ex- 
tensive and beautiful lakes are reported by the natives to exist in 
the interior of these extensive plains, which serve greatly to facil- 
itate their intercourse with each other. We say, " reported to 
exist ;" for even at this day but little is known of the interior of 
the island, firom the actual observations of foreigners. These lakes 
doubtless form the sources of the nmnerous rivers of the island, 
particularly those which discharge themselves into the straits on 
the eastern coast, and which are larger than those on the west 
side of the mountains, in proportion to the more extensive range 
of country through which they flow. Of these, Palembang, 
Jambi, Indergeree, Bakan and Battoo, Barra or Barroo, are the 
largest, rising on the east of the mountains, and receiving in their 
course the waters of many tributary streams and subsidiary rivu*- 



186 TOY AG J! OF THS POTOMAC. [FefenuBy, 

lets. They are also augmented by the aid of more extensive 
vapours and rains, which prevail on the east of the mountains ; 
while their course is rendered more steady and uniform by the less 
undulating face of the regions through which they find their way 
to the ocean. They also derive great advantages from the shelter 
and protection aflforded them by the Island of Borneo, which, 
breaking the force of the ocean's swell, guards their mouth from 
that accumulation of sand, which, in the form of bars, too fre- 
quently obstructs the navigation pf rivers not thus protected. 

The rivers of the west, however, are by no means inconsider- 
able, particularly the Cattovm, Indrapoor, Tabooyong, and Sinkell. 
The mouths of these rivers, however, lying exposed to the whole 
strength of the winds and ocean on the west, which create a con- 
tinued action of the surf, more powerful than the current of the 
streams, renders them inaccessible to vessels of any size, and 
often dangerous even to boats^ 

From what jbas been said respecting the location of Sumatra, 
in the very centre of the tropics, it may be inferred that an 
atmosphere of very high temperature must be the necessary con- 
sequence. Such, however, is not the fact, Experience has 
shown that it is naore temperate than many regions beyond the 
torrid zone, The hour of greatest heat is about two o'clock in 
the afternoon, when the thermometer fluctuates between eighty- 
two and eighty-five degrees of Fahrenheit, and seldom rises above 
eighty-six in the shade. Some few locahties, influenced by pe- 
culiar circumstances, may perhaps form exceptions ; but the 
above is correct as a general remark applied to the coast. Fur- 
ther inland, beyond the first range of hills, the air is quite cool, 
SO that even fires are not unpleasant in the morning, but often 
desirable. The thermometer there stands at about seventy, which 
in our country would not be deemed a low temperature, although 
the system, relaxed in a warm climate, is sensibly aflfected by it ; 
as are also the fruits of the island, more especially the cocoanut, 
which comes more tardily to perfection in the more elevated 
situations. 

The formation and shape of the island naturally produce these 
results. Being a long narrow strip of land, rising from the bosom 
of the ocean, the breezes that play over its surface carry with 
them the coolness and freshness of the sea. There are no sandy 



1832.].^' ISLAND OF SUMATRA. 137 

deserts or plains to reiSect back the rays of a vertical sun, as in 
the equatorial regions of Africa vand South America, while the 
clayey qualities of the soil, and the thick luxuriant growth of 
verdure and forest, tend greatly to ameliorate the temperament of 
the atmosphere. Frost, snow, and hail are unknown ; but the 
vapours on the island are frequently dense, and clouds descend 
low ; while the morning fogs, which it requires several hours sun 
to dispel, lie between the hills, with outhnes well defined. 

All writers, from the earliest Portuguese voyagers, agree that 
this island and its vicinity are- often visited, during the northwest 
monsoon, with most terrific tempests of thunder and lightning, 
scarcely surpassed in any other part of the world ; the whole 
appearing to tremble from the reiterated explosions; and the 
heavens, for hours at a time, presenting an expansive sheet of 
vivid fire. 

On the west poast of Sumatra, the southeast monsoon, or dry 
season, begins about May, and continues until about September. 
The northwest monsoon begins about November, and the heavy 
rains cease about March ; while the months of April and May, as 
well as October and November, are generally distinguished on the 
coast by light and variable winds. The causes of these periodical 
winds, which are known by the appellation of monsoons, as weD 
as their influence on commercial operations, have often been 
alluded to by many able writers ; and they are of so much im- 
portance, and so necessary to be understood by the intelligent 
merchant, in selecting the seasons for sending his vessels into 
these seas, that we shall devote a chapter exclusively to this 
subject in another part of the work* 

The soil of Sumatra, generally speaking, is of a reddish stiff 
clay, covered in most places with a dark rich mould, from which 
springs, spontaneously, a strong luxuriant vegetation of perpetual 
verdure. This manifests itself in various species of grass, shrub- 
bery, jungle, fruit-trees, and forests of timber, proportioned to 
the length of time the surface of the ground has remained undis 
turbed by agricultural or mining operations. In many places 
along the western coast of the island, are also extensive marshes, 
bogs, fens, or swamps, whose irregular and winding course may 
sometimes be traced, in a continuous chain, for many miles, until 
tbey terminate on the low margin of a river, a lake, or the sea 



138 TOTAGS OF THE POTOMAC. [February, 

shore. The more elevated spots which these marshes partially or 
wholly encompass, in the course of their extensive range, appear 
like so many peninsulas, promontories, capes, islands, isthmuses, 
and ridges ; presenting in some places gentle declivities, and in 
others high and precipitous cliffs. 

In mineral and metallic productions, the island is very rich ; and 
it also abounds with fossil animal remains. In all ages it has 
been celebrated for its gold, of which it is still productive, and 
might be made abundantly more so, were the inhabitants industri- 
ous, and better versed in the sciences of mineralogy and metal- 
lurgy. The copper mines are also rich ; and the ore, like that of 
Japan, is impregnated with gold. Iron is found in abundance^ 
and the steel produced from it possesses a brilliancy, acuteness, 
and durity, which have never been equalled in any other part of 
the world. Tin, called by the natives ternary has always been 
one of the export commodities of the island, and has generally 
been procured near Palembang ; though it is also found in other 
places, especially near Pedattee, in the vicinity of the English 
settlement of Bencoolen. 

The soil is also impregnated with nitre, or saltpetre, of which 
the natives extract large quantities, by a process peculiar to them- 
selves. Coal, rock-crystal, and mineral and hot springs, have been 
discovered in many districts ; and the oleum terr(B, or oil of earth, 
is found in several places, being probably the same as the foun- 
tain of napthuy at Pedir, a town on the north end of the island, 
about forty miles east-southeast ,of Acheen, and which is so 
much celebrated by the Portuguese. Petrifications of shells of 
various kinds, and also of wood, are often found fifty feet above 
the level of the sea, and sometimes as many feet below the same 
level. These objects, deposited in situations so far beyond the 
reach of any assignable agency, may be admitted as corroborative 
testimony in favour of the hypothesis which supposes this globe 
of ours, at some remote period, to have writhed and shaken 
under some terrific convulsion. 

The island imder consideration, at all events, has been, and 
probably still is, subject to those feverish throes of nature which 
have been known to produce results not less singular than the 
phenomena just alluded to. In fact, there are few islands in the 
eastern Archipelago that do not exhibit irresistible evidence of 



1632.] ISLAITD OF SUMATRA. 189 

vdicanic action. We have already alluded to the occasional erup- 
tions of burning mountains, of which there are several, generally 
quiescent, on the island. Earthquakes are frequent, though not 
often violent or destructive in their effects, when compared with 
those which have successively shaken thq western coast of South 
America. Writers have alluded to one which occurred in the dis- 
trict of Manna, on the southwest coast of Sumatra, about one 
himdred and fifty miles northwest firom the Strttt of Sunda, in the 
year 1770 ; when a village was destroyed by the houses falling 
and taking fire, with the loss of some lives. The ground was 
rent for some distance, presenting a yawning chasm or fissure of 
several fathoms in depth, firom the sides of which issued a bitu- 
minous matter, and the earth was observed alternately to contract 
and dilate for many days. The hills in the interior seemed to nod, 
as in obeisance to each other ; and new formations were produced 
on the seashore. Another, still more disastrous in its effects, oc- 
curred at Padang, in 1097, when more than three hundred lives 
were lost. 

The origin of the inhabitants of Sumatra is a question of diffi- 
cult solution, being involved in as much doubt and conjecture as 
is that of the aborigines of our own country. The term Malay 
cannot be indiscriminately appUed to the Sumatrans en massCy as 
they evidently comprise several other very distinct races of people, 
both as to origin, language, religion, &c. viz : — the Acheens of the 
north, with a mixture of Moorish blood, firom western India — ^the 
Battas, the Rejangs, and the Lampoons. It is true that the dis- 
tinctive traits which marked those various tribes, at the com- 
mencement of the sixteenth century, have in some measure dis- 
appeared ; owing to a more general intercourse between them, by 
the breaking up of various monarchiojl^ and petty kingdoms, 
whereby something analogous to a national character has been 
given to the whole accessible population, at least on the seaboard. 

Still, however, it must be conceded that the inhabitants of the 
interior cannot be included in this general remark. They have 
either kept aloof, firom the supposed amalgamation, or their moral 
as well as personal features are too strongly marked to be readily 
changed by a mixture of blood ; for they still remain a dis- 
tinct people. This remark is perhaps applicable to every island 
in the Archipelago, and tends to prove that the Malays were not 



140 TOTAAS or THB POTOMAC. [Fdmiaiy, 



i 



the original possetion of the soil on whidi they no now found. 
Sereral writera on this subject mainuin that all the oriental nations 
lurfe spmng firom two grand stocks, rix. : — the Hindoos and the 
Tartan. The pe<^le of the interior eridendy derive dieir ori- 
gin firom the fonner, and the Malays as obriously firom the latter. 
In Marsden's EUstofy of Sumatra, with which island the-anthor 
had every opportunity of being well acquainted, having resided on 
it for several years in the capacity of ^ Secretaiy to the President 
and Council <^ Fort MaiibOToui^'' near Bencoden, a settlement 
of the English East India Company, he says, that the Malays, 
now so called, are, in comparison vrith the natives of the interior, 
** hut as people of yesterday." In the course of his inquiries 
among the natives concerning the aborigines of the island, he vras 
infonned of two different species of people dispersed in the woods, 
and avdding all c(»nmumcation vrith die inhabitants nearer the 
coast. These they called Orang Cooboo and Orang Coogoo. 
The former, he was informed, were quite numerous, especiaUy in 
that part of the country lying between Palembang and Jambee. 
He- adds, diat some of these interior natives have been caught, 
and kept as slaves in Laboan^ and that a man of that place was 
actually married to a tolerably handsome Cooboo girl, who was 
carried off by a party who discovered their huts. He says they 
have a language quite peculiar to themselves, and that diey eat 
promiscuously whatever the woods afford, — as deer, elephant, 
riiinoceros, wild hog, snakes, or monkeys. The Coogoosj he 
says, are by far less numerous ; and that, excepting the use of 
speech, they differ but litde firom the orang-outang of Borneo, 
their bodies being covered with long hair. Mr. Marsden does not 
vouch for these facts, but gives them as they were communicated 
to him by the Malays, who have more than once caught, domesti- 
cated, and intermarried with them. The immediate firuits of such 
marriages are said to be somewhat of the Esau species ; but this 
peculiarity disappears in the third generation. The natives of 
Java, according to Barrow, have also a tradition, that their an- 
cestors originally sprang firom a species of ape, called the tooio- 

1CMH0. 

As a general description, the Sumatrans are rather below the 
middle stature, but well-proportioned. Their limbs are light and 
finely shaped, with small wrists and ankles ; their figures, thouf^ 



1832.1 ISLAND or SUMATRA. 141 

not commanding, are not deficient in grace and symmetry. Their 
complexion, which is lighter than the natires of India, is properly 
yellow, wanting the red tinge that constitutes a tawny or copper- 
colom*.' Some of the women of the higher classes approach to 
a degree of northern fairness ; and would pass in any part of the 
world for beautiful brunetts. But the great mass of the females 
are so entirely destitute of personal charms, as eren to be dis* 
gusting in their appearance. Like the Chinese, the men of supe- 
rior rank in Sumatra allow the nails of their fingers, and even 
those of their toes, to grow to an extraordinary length. 

When this island was first visited by Europeans, the natit^ 
were dressed in garments made of the same kind of cloth as tk&t 
which now is usually worn on most of the islands ot the Pacific 
Ocean, and which has received the general cognomen of Ota- 
heitean cloth. It is still used in Sumatra by some tribes of the 
interior. 

The usual dress of the men consists of a close waistcoat, with 
a pair of short drawers next the skin. The foaner is without 
sleeves, fastened round the throat like a shirt, with a metallic 
button, the intrinsic value of which depends upon the rank or pe- 
cuniary circumstances of the wearer — it is often of gold filigreOr 
Over this they wear the hadjoOy which resembles a morning-gown, 
open at the neck, but fastened close at the wrists, and buttoned 
half-way up the arm. The young men, who in all countries are 
prone more or less to afiect the dandy^ wear the badjoo much 
shorter than those of riper years, which sometimes descend as 
low as the ankles. They are usually made of blue or white 
cotton; while the better sort wear them of chints, and the 
rajahs of flowered silk. Over the right shoulder is often thrown 
a scarf, which hangs down on the left side, not imlike a Scotch 
Highlander's plaid, and is called the cayen-sarong. It is simply 
a long piece of variegated cloth, of a yard ot more in width, sewed 
together at the ends. It is frequently permitted to fall from the 
shoulders, to be gathered in plaits around the waist and hips, where, 
in full dress, it is closely belted by the girdle or sash in which the 
krisy or dagger, is worn. This sash, which is of crimson silk, 
passes several times around the body, and has a loop at the end 
in which the sheath of the kris is suspended. Their drawers, 
which are often of taffeta, seldom reach lower than half-wajr 



142 voYAQB OF THE POTOMAC. [February, i 

down the thigh, leaving no covering for the legs or feet. On thefa* 
heads is fastened a coloured handkerchief, in a form somewhat 
resembling a turban; the country people substitute a piece of 
white or blue muslin. This head-dress, on ordinary.occasions, 
leaves the crown exposed ; but when they are proceeding on a 
journey they wear a toodong, or umbrella-shaped hat, of such 
dimensions as completely to protect them from the weather. 

The females, though not accustomed to waste much time in 
the arrangement of their toilet, dress, of course, more tastefully 
than the other sex. They also wear a short waistcoat, which 
conceals and defends the breast, and reaches to the hips; all 
below which is enveloped with the cayen-sarongy which comes 
up as high as the arm-pits, where it is kiept in its place simply by 
folding and tucking it over at the bosom. As an additional secu- 
rity, it is frequently confined about the waist by a girdle or zone, 
which is usually made of embroidered cloth, but is sometimes a 
hoop of gold or silver about two inches in breadth, fastening in 
front with a large clasp of fihgree or chased work, in the centre 
of which is set some kind of precious stone, or, at least, an im- 
itation of one. Their bcuijoo, or upper gown, differs little from 
that of the men, buttoning in the same manner at the wrists. 
Around the neck is throvm a piece of fine blue cloth, of nearly 
two yards in length, neatly fringed at the ends, which hang down 
before ; this not only serves as a shawl, but also as a veil, for 
females of rank, when they make their appearance abroad. 

They permit their hair to grow luxuriantly long, both before 
and behind; and the whole of it is carefully combed back 
together, ready for its final adjustment. This is performed in two 
ways ; one of which is, by winding the hair circularly, or, in nau- 
tical parlance, coiling it on.the top of the head, where it is fastened 
by a silver bodkin or pin. This fashion is similar to that of the 
Chinese ladies, from whom it was probably borrowed. The 
other, and by far the most common mode of disposing tlie hair, 
after combing it back, is that of giving it a twist or two with the 
hands, and then doubling it, and passing the bight through a lock 
or tuft raised from the mass for that purpose on the back of the 
head. As an additional security, tortoise-shell combs are used, 
sometimes highly ornamented with gold or silver. Among the 
poorer classes, the hair is always kept moist by a free use of the 



1832.] ISLAND OF BUMATRA. 148 

oil of cocoanut; while those whose circumstances will penniti 
make use of an aromatic oil, extracted from gum benjamin, as a 
very pleasant perfume. The females wear no covering on their 
heads, either for protection or ornament, with the exception of a 
modest wreath of flowers ; their hair, in the language of St. Paul^ 
being their " covering and their glory." The flowers which com- 
pose this wreath are generally white, or of a pale yellow, and 
are always selected when only half blown, and strung with neat- 
ness and simplicity, without the least indication of show or 
gaudiness. 

Among the country people, and more especially in the southern 
districts, the young and unmarried females are distinguished by a 
narrow fillet, which, passing round the forehead and over the hair, 
is fastened at the back of the head. Among the wealthy, this 
fillet is generally of gold or silver, to match the zone ; while the 
poorer classes substitute a single. leaf of the necpoA-tree. Their 
maiden state is also denoted by bracelets of silver or gold on tfae 
wrists. The young women in the country villages manafactare 
the cloth for their own cayen-sarong, which, with them only, 
reaches from the breast to the knees. Those worn by the Malay 
ladies nearer the coast, are of greater length, and more shov^y and 
expensive ; and yet the rural maids, with their shorter dress, evince 
more innocent simplicity and genuine modesty, than their metro- 
politan neighbours. 

Both sexes practise the unaccountable custom of filing, black- 
ing, and otherwise disfiguring their teeth, especially by an inordi- 
nate use of the betele-nut. The women in the Lampoon district 
actually file their teeth nearly dovni even with the gums ; and never 
seem to be satisfied while a single natural beauty is retained in their 
mouths; thus evincing the greatest ingratitude to nature, firom 
whom they each originally derived two beautiful rows of pearls, 
set in coral arches of the brightest red. Their teeth naturally 
are regularly set, and of the most exquisite whiteness. 

Having thus very cursorily touched upon the geographical loca- 
tion and geological features of the Island of Sumatra, together 
with its climate, winds, mountains, rivers, lakes, soil, minerals, 
and inhabitants, including a brief description of the persons and 
dress of the latter, we shall now proceed to drop a few words on 
their villages, buildings, and domestic arts. 



144 VOYAGE OF THE poTOMic. [Februaij, 

It has been justly observed, that in proportion as the arts in use 
with any people are connected with the primary demands of 
nature, they carry the greater likelihood of originality ; because 
those demands must have been administered to firom a period 
coeval with the existence of the people themselves. 

The arts of a primitive people, like their wants, are generally 
few, confined principally to the protection and sustenance of the 
mere paimal body — to the construction of such abodes as are re- 
quired to defend them from the inclemencies of the elements, and 
external assaults of every description, and to the numerous in- 
genious expedients for procuring food, as climate or circumstances 
may require it to be sought, either from the plain or the forest, 
the mountain or the seashore. Man's earliest effort is to avoid 
pain, and his second to procure pleasure. The two requisites 
just named, of shelter and sustenance, are so simple in themselves, 
and act so immediately on the. external senses of the most wild 
or uncultivated of the hrnnan species, that the efforts made to 
supply them are little else than an instinctive obedience to the 
mandates of nature, as both of them are essential to the continu- 
ance of life. 

In a country like Sumatra, generally rich in soil, warm in cli- 
mate, and abimdant in a vast variety of nourishing and delicious 
firuits, which grow and ripen without the labour of man, and 
almost drop into his mouth as he indolently stretches him- 
self in the shade of teeming boughs, on which blossoms and ma- 
turity are promiscuously mingled, — the springs of necessity, which 
are the primum mobile of invention, soon lose their power and 
elasticity. As a natural consequence, the intellectual machine 
will perform fewer and more simple revolutions, than where a more 
rigorous climate, producing more comphcated wants, imparts 
health and vigour to the body, fresh incentives to the mind, and 
new activities to ingenuity. 

Roused to action by the rude necessities of his arctic climate, 
the feeble Esquimaux has invented comforts which do honour to 
his Tft^* With no other materials than the frozen snow around 
him, he constructs a neat and commodious habitation, perfectly 
adapted in form and capacity to the nature of the region he in- 
habits. The rapidity and neatness with which he raises this edi- 
fice, and renders it impervious to the rigorous atmosphere around 



1838.] ISLAND OP SUMATRA. 145 

it, is truly admirable. Its shape is that of ar hemispherical bee- 
hive, and he enters it on his belly, when it affords him a similar 
protection to that which the vegetable kingdom receives from a 
covering of snow, and hence the contrivance doubtless originated. 
He has also invented arts and stratagems to capture the walrus 
and seal on the edge of the ice. The skin of the seacalf forms 
his swift-sailing canoe, while its carcass furnishes him with fael 
and light ; and he patiently works a gray porous stone iitta the 
shape of kettles and pitchers, the brims and edges of which he 
tastefully ornaments. 

The Laplander, in obedience to similar calls of necessity^ 
has invented methods by which he can catch the raindeer, and 
train it for domestic use, to convey him on distant journeys, or 
to supply his little dairy with luxuries. His boat-shaped sledge, 
in which he travels, is invented and constructed by himself, while 
his wife or daughter draws milk from the deer's distended udder, 
and converts it to butter and cheese. He has learned to make 
garments of its skin, and to preserve its flesh for food ; to 
draw forth the finny tribes from the sea ; and to build conical 
habitations of poles, with their tops united and covered with 
skins. . He is ever active in his fishing or the chase ; in at^ 
tending to his raindeer, or in constructing canoes, sledges, hamesSf 
cups, bowls, &c., while his wife is equally busy in making nets, 
curing the fish, drying the venison, and tanning hides. The Being 
from whom he derived his inventive faculty, " knoweth that he 
hath need of all these things." 

The lawless Arab of the desert, like the wild and independent 
Indian of the Argentine pampas, glories in the fleetness of his 
horse, and constructs portable habitations, well adapted to his 
itinerant life and habits ; but it is the latter that invented the lasso, 
with which he captures wild cattle, and animals of various kinds ; 
it is he who, far less tame himself than the snorting wild-horse 
which he with inimitable grace bestrides, collects, and folds, and 
leads to fertile pastures, the bullocks of the pampas ; it is he 

*' Who, like the acti?e Africftn, instructs 
The fiery steed and trains him to his hand." 

Thus it appears,, that it is the call of necessity which brings 
into action the intellectual and physical energies of man ; and 
&at the inhabitants of more rigorous climates make more rapid 

K 



146 voTAOB OF THlB POTOMAC. iFebnniy, 

adyancements in improvement ; while those within the tropics, 
feeling less necessity for exertion, remain much longer in their 
priiaitive state. The happy medium, as usual, lies between the 
two, for it needs no argument to prove that the arts and sciences 
have always flourished with the most vigour under the temperate 
zone. We may thus, in some measure, account for the fact, that 
the Asiatic nations, though of great antiquity, have made far less 
rapid advances in the arts and sciences, and every species of im- 
provement, than modem nations in more northern latitudes, who 
sprang into existence, as it were, but yesterday. 

This proposition vidU be more fully illustrated when we come 
to speak of the Chinese, who appear to have stuck at a certain 
point in the scale of improvement, above which they have not 
risen since the days of Confucius. 

The Sumatrans, however, without being impelled by keen ne- 
cessity in the construction of their habitations, have advanced 
many degrees beyond most other islanders in the luxurious and 
effeminating climate of the eastern world. Their doosoons, or 
vill^es, are generally erected on some commanding site, near a 
river or lake, which not only affords them facilities for bathing, — 
a recreaticm of which they are very fond, and which is required 
by health, as well as enjoined by the Mahometan faith ; but serves 
also as a channel of conmiunication for personal intercourse and 
the transportation of merchandise. The frames of their houses 
are of wood, resting on tall upright posts, sunk a few feet in the 
ground. The roofs are variously covered, but most generally with 
the leaf of the neepahy or palm-tree. The floor consists of bam- 
boos, placed across in form of sleepers, which are covered with 
laths of the same material, each of which is about an inch in 
breadth, and over these is spread a carpet of mats, rendering the 
apartments quite comfortable, as there is no cold to be excluded. 
The lightness of the materials which form such an edifice, and the 
simplicity of its construction, are admirably adapted to a country 
liable to be frequently shaken to its centre by earthquakes and 
volcanic eruptions ; being less perilous to the inhabitants than if 
built of clay, or even of mud. Necessity has taught them this 
fact ; but yet, as an art or a science, the Sumatrans know nothing 
of architecture. 

The furniture of these dwellings comprises but few articles, ajid^ 



1832.] ISLAND OP SUMATRA. 147 

is quite plain, corresponding to the simplicity of manners which 
characterizes the people. In the article of bedding, they evince 
considerable taste. Each bed is furnished with several pillows, 
neatly fringed at the ends virith a light substance resembling foil. 
For, chairs and stools they have, of course, no use, as they always 
sit upon mats on the floor, and generally cross-legged, like the 
Turks. Rice is always a leading dish at their meals. In their 
various kinds of curry y the knife and spoon are geneTBB:f dis- 
pensed with, and the thumb and finger substituted, which are 
frequently immersed in water during the repast. 

Rice is a great article of consumption in all countries that lie 
near the equator. Like whieat in our own temperate latitudes, it 
is the tropical '^ staff of life." It is probable that not less than 
fifty millions of the human family depend for their sustenance 
almost exclusively upon this farinaceous and esculent artlele ci 
food. In India, rice is called, while yet in the husk, paddee ; but^ 
acquires a different appellation from every process through which 
it passes. In Sumatra and the adjacent islands, this article is 
distinguished by the Malays as " upland and lowknd paddee," 
a distinction, we believe, not unknown among the rice-planters of 
our own country. The upland rice, being of a superior quaUty 
and more durably, always conmiands a higher . price ; while the 
other, or lowland, is more productive, yielding a greater return; 
and though not so durable, or by any means so nutricious, is yet 
in more general use. 

The plantations, or paddee-Jields, are often prepared with great 
labour, in clearing away the aquatic shrubs with which the 
marshes or lowlands are generally -f^veirun ; while even greater 
efforts are required in removing the venerable groves which have 
shaded the mountains for ages. The fields are sowed in Sep- 
tember or October, about the commencement of the periodical 
rains. When additional moisture becomes necessary, artificial 
irrigation is resorted to, which is easily effected, firom the numer- 
ous little streams which intersect the interior of the island in 
every direction. When the rice begins to blossom and form into 
ears, " sweet bashful pledges of delicious harvest, wafting their 
influence to the ripening sun," the water is carefully drained off; 
after which the crop rapidly advances to a state for the gatherer. 
la the district of Manna^ and that occupied by the Battoos, the 

k2 



148 YOTACSC OF THE POTOMAC. [February, 

arts of cultivation are exercised in much greater perfection than 
in any other parts of the* island; owing probably to the greater 
density of population, and the consequent necessity of industry* 
The crops yield variously in different parts of the island, but in 
none are they more productive than in the interior from QuaUah- 
Battoo. 

The cocoanut, nature's most bountiful gift to her rude childrro 
throughout the tropical world, is found in aU parts of Sumatra ; 
and, in one way or another, is extensively used by the inhabitants 
as an article of food ; though, from the great variety of other pro- 
ductions, it is not actually indispensable, as is the case in some 
islands. Oil is extracted from it for moistening the hair, and 
also for burning in lamps ; though in the interior of the island, 
lights are procured from a species of turpentine called dammar. 
From this and other species of palm, is also extracted a Uquor 
used in the manufacture of arrack ; while from the head of the 
same tree is procured a kind of cabbage. The villages are care- 
fully surrounded and adorned with cocoanut-trees wherever the 
air and soil are favourable ; while in the seaport towns, where the 
demand is greater, the groves are proportionably larger. The soil 
best adapted to their growth is low and sandy, and near the sea- 
shore, where they come to maturity and bear fruit in the course 
of a few years. 

" Here, stretched beneath these orchards of the sun. 
Give me to drain the cocoa's milky bowl ; 
^d from the palm to draw its freshening wine, 
More bounteous far than all the frantic juice 
Which Bacchus pofun.*' — ^Thomson. 

The betele-nut'tree, greatly resembling in its appearance the 
cocoanut, is cultivated by the natives in large plantations, and is 
eaten with see-seCy a creeping plant of a pleasant aromatic odour. 
Ginger and tobacco are raised in small quantities. The palmar 
christi, of which the best of castor-oil is made, grows here in 
great abundance, and without any trouble. Sugar is extracted 
from anoUf a species of the palm. The natives plant a dwarf 
kind of mulberry for the use of the silkworm, but their silk is 
of an inferior quality. Sugarcane is cultivated, though not to 
any great extent, and is chewed as a delicacy. They plant yams 



I832.J ISLAND OP SUMATRA. 149 

of rariotts kinds, to the culture of which the soil is well adapted ; 
likewise sweet potatoes and pulse, a species of French bean, as 
well as the egg-plant, probably introduced from*- China, all of 
which are much used for food. Maize is planted, and much eaten 
while green, but not relied on as an essential article of subsistence. 
The indigo, taroom, found on all tlieir plantations, is used as a 
die-stuff; but is not in general prepared in solid pieces as we 
see in the southern ceroons. Diewoods of various kinds, some 
of which are very valuable, are found on the island, with the 
virtues and qualities of which the natives appear to be well ao 
quainted. 

No portion of the globe can probably boast of so many indige- 
nous &uits as the Malay islands. Here nature, in liberal profu- 
sion, has poured forth her most delicious productions. The man^ 
gusteen — ^how shall we describe it? The pride and boast of 
India ! Where shall we find language that will convey to those 
who never tasted it, an idea of its inexpressible delicacy;— unlike, 
as it is unequalled by, any fruit in the world. It is a drupe, con- 
sisting of a soft, succulent, and thick rind, encompassing kernels, 
which are covered with a juicy and perfectly white substance, 
that dissolves in the mouth. It is so innocent in its effects, that 
it may bd pHrtaken in any quantity, without danger. 

There is another fruit, called the doosean, of which the natives 
are extremely fond, and subsist on it almost entirely during its 
season. This is a rich fruit, grows on high trees, and not pleasant, 
either in flavour or odour, to those who are unaccustomed to it. 
Besides those already mentioned, and various other fruits found 
on the vine, the shrub, or the trees of the forest, there are man- 
goes, Indian figs, bananas, pineapples, oranges, limes, and lemons, 
in abundance; also, pomegranates, melons, watermelons, tama- 
rinds, and grapes, though in limited extent ; the latter grow wild, 
and are scarcely cultivated at all. 

But prolific nature has by no means exhausted all her energies 
on the vegetable kingdom in Signatra. The island not only 
abounds with plants, flowers, fruits, and gigantic forests, but ali^o 
in beasts, birds, reptiles, and insects ; which, though extrem^ 
numerous, being similar to those, found in other portions of India, 
can receive but a partial notice at our hand. Those of most 
note are the following, distinguished by their native and foreign 



150 TOTAOE or THE FOToMAC. [Febfuaiyf 

names : — ahorse, coodo; small, well made, and hardy; cow, sappee ; 
small breed ; sheep, beeree-beeree ; small, probably introduced 
from Bengal ; goat, cambing ; goat of the woods, cambing-ootan ; 
resembUng the gazelle ; hog, babee ; Chinese breed ; dog, angin ; 
caly cochin ; rat, teecoose ; elephant, gaja ; rhinoceros, buddah ; 
hippopotamus, coodoo^yer ;. tiger, reemou^ or machang ; very 
ferocious and destnictiye to human life ; bear, broorong (Latin, 
bruin); otter, angin-^Lyer ; sloth, <eZ/e^^o; porcupine, landa; 
armadillo, tangeeling ; very rare, and much esteemed by the 
natiTes ; deer, rooso-keejang ; many species, some of which are 
very large ; monkey, moonia ; prodigious variety , squirrel, toopye ; 
bat, boorong'tecoosCy dec. &c. 

The buffalo, though obstinate, dull, and capricious, is still sub- 
dued to the yoke, and performs with great patience all the do- 
mestic labours of the Sumatrans, and constitutes a great part of 
their food. There are two species, the black and the white, and 
both are domesticated. The forests abound with elephants, which 
sometimes commit great depredations on the plantations of the 
ioatives. 

The birds are very numerous, and of great variety in their 
plumage. We cannot even attempt to name even the few that 
have been described. It is here that the famous Sumatran, or 
Argos pheasant is found ; a specimen of which, we presume, is 
not contained in any of our public collections. • The natives call 
it the cochow. It is a bird of uncommon beauty ; perhaps the 
most delicately rich, without any gaudiness, of all the feathered 
tribe. Like the quail of our own country, it cannot be domesti- 
cated, and seldom lives more than a month when deprived of its 
liberty. It is said to have a great antipathy to light ; but when 
kept in a moderate degree of darkness, it is more cheerful, and 
then sometimes makes use of the notes from which its name is 
derived, coo-ow, coo-ow^ in a plaintive style, and not harsh like 
the peacocks. There are many species of the stork, some of 
which are very large ; and parrots are without number. Doves 
are also numerous, and the domestic fowl is found in great per- 
fection, far surpassing in size and flavour their puny descendants 
in /any other part of the world. 

Of all the productions of the island, regarded as articles 
of commerce, their pepper has held, and deservedly too, the 



1S32«] ISLANB OF STTHATRA. 151 

first rank ; and has added not a little to die value of our com- 
mercial intercourse with the natives of the Malay coast. Every 
effort has been secretly made by the East India Con^panies of 
Europe, to get this valuable trade into their ovm exclusive power. 
It was for the monopoly .of this single article that the Dutch 
maintained so long, and at so great a sacrifice of human Ufe, their 
fiau^tory at the productive but sickly port of Padang, on the west 
coast of Sumatra, about fifty miles south of the equator, grasping 
at the whole traffic on that coast. Actuated by a similar policy, 
the British East India Company exerted their whole strength, 
and finally succeeded in getting the ascendency ; so that in the 
year 1774, a short time before her American colonies declared 
their independence, their exports of pepper alone, from the west 
coast of Sumatra, amounted to no less ^an twelve hundred tons 
per annum. It is not our. present purpose, however, to go into 
the statistics of this valuable trade ; but rather to show the natural 
capacities of the island, and the articles of conunerce which are 
indigenous to the soil. It may not be improper, however, to add, 
that Padang has been alternately in the possession of the EngUsh 
and Dutch several times ; but finally surrendered to the latter in 
1814. In 1797, while in possession of the British, it was almost 
totally destroyed by an earthquake, when upwards of three hun- 
dred lives were lost. 

The pepper grows on a vine, or creeping plant, with a ligneous 
stalk, and leaves of a dark green, heart-shaped, pointed, and not 
poignant to the taste, and having little or no smell. The blossom 
is small and white, and the fruit hangs in bimches, or clusters, 
resembling those of the currant-tree, but larger and less pliant. 
It is from four to five months in coming to maturity. The berries 
are at first green, and gradually become a bright red when ripe, 
and soon fall off if not gathered. All the bunches on the stems 
do not become ripe at the same time, and the natives firequently 
go through their little farms with small baskets, plucking off each 
bunch as they become ripe. When gathered, it is spread out on 
mats, or clean places, to dry. That which has been gathered at 
a proper age will shrink least ; while those, skilled in the trade 
will readily distinguish that which has been plucked prematurely, 
by rubbing it in the hand, when it will impart much dust, and even 
crumble to pieces. 






152 YOTAGE OF THB POTOMAC. [Fcljia^aiy, 

The pepper vine runs up on poles, like our beanpoles, preTiouflLy 
planted for that purpose, six feet apart, as our fanners plant their 
Indian com. The culture of one thousand such plants is occu- 
pation sufficient for a man and his wife ; while five hundred is the 
amount allotted to a single person. 3ut these allotments carry 
us back to times when the natives were more severely dealt by 
than they are at present ; when grasping monopolies' laid hea^y 
exactions on the petty chiefs, who in their turn tjrrannised over 
their harmless and unresisting subjects. 

There are said to be three species of feppaCf and known in 
different sections of the country by different names. That which 
is raised in the Rajang district, is called lado caw^or; is strong 
bears a large leaf and fruit, and is slow in coming to fierfection. 
The leaf and friiit of the lado manna are smaller, but the vme 
bears sooner, and in much greater quantities. The Jambee is 
small in leaf and fruit, and has long since fallen into disrepute. 
It is probable that the different qualities of the soil have an agency 
in producing these varieties. 

The pepper season^ as well as the ripening of other fruits in 
Sumatra, are liable to great irregularities from the uncertainty of 
the monsoons, which are not always so exactly periodical as they 
are in some other parts of India. In ordinary seasons, the pepper 
vine produces two crops in the year. The first is a large one, called 
poopool-augoong, about the month of September, when the sun is 
crossing the equator, in his declination towards the south ; the 
other, called the lesser or half crop, hooalellOy in the month of 
March, when the sun is returning across the equator, towards the 
north. For on every spot between the tropics, the sun is vertical 
twice in each year, so that each experiences a double season. In 
the beautiful language of Thomson — 

'* Great are the aeenae, with dreadful beauty crowned, 
And boibatous wealth, that see each circling year 
Returning suns and double seasons pass." 

These different crops are generally brought from the interior to 
the seashores by rafts of bamboo or other timber, floated on the 
current of rapid streams. 

Among the indigenous productions of the island is the cam-' 
phire-treef producing a gum, or resin, so celebrated and valuable 



t 



;j 



• 



1639*] ISLAND OF StJHlTRA. . 158 

as an article of commerce. Camphire was long known and ap- 
preciated by the Arabians before a European flag had been 
unfolded in the eastern seas. The camphire-tree is found only 
on the southern parts of the island ; it grows without culture, and 
sometimes attains to an impiense magnitudei measuring no less 
than fifteen feet in circumference. The wood of this tree is highly 
esteemed for many purposes, particularly by the trunk-makers, as 
the camphorated odour of the wood prevents tlie inroads of moths 
and other insects. From the interstices of the timber, when split 
open, the oamj^uie is often taken in a dry concrete state ; while 
there is anoflier «tree, of a different species, which produces it in a 
liqiviCoQDa. -llie camphire of this island has always commanded 
a htgh'.priee» but is seldom met with in our country in an unadul- 
terated s(ate. A great portion of that which is brought from India 
is, we believe, procured at Japan, of an inferior quality, being 
from a tree which abounds in all parts of that country, and known 
to naturahsts by the name of laurus camphora. The camphire-oil, 
or rather Uquid, as it is destitjite of every oleaginous quality, is 
highly esteemed as a medicine by the natives^ who use it as we 
do, for strains, swellings, and inflammations ; its extreme subtilty 
rendering it very penetrating to whatever part applied. It is not 
manufactured, nor does it undergo any preparation ; but is distilled 
as a volatile resin, from a species of the camphire-tree. 

Benjamin, or benzoin — caminyan — ^is also found in Sumatra, 
on the more northern parts of the island. It is generally denomi- 
nated a gum, although from its ready solubility in alcohol, it is 
more properly a resin. The tree is small, and not suitable for me- 
chanical purposes. In some parts near the seacoast, the natives 
have been in the habit of cultivating large groves of it, its growth 
being rapid, and affording a quick return for their labour. Much 
of this odoriferous resin is used in Cathohc countries, where it is 
burnt as incense in their religious ceremonies. It is also used, 
we believe, in medicine ; and the ladies of Wealth in Sumatra 
anoint their heads with a fragrant oil extracted from it. 

Cassia — covle^-manees* This species of cinnamon is found 
in the interior of the island, and is mostly procured in those dis- 
tricts which lie inland from Tappanooly ; it abounds also in 
Moosee, the country where the Palembang river takes its rise. 
The trees grow to the height of forty or fifty feet, with wide- 



164 voYAOB OP THE POTOMAC. [February, 

spreading, horizontal branches, reaching nearly to the ground. No 
pains are taken in cultivating it by the natives, or the sale oi its 
batk might be turned to good account. 

In addition to the productions already enumerated, there are — 
rattans, cotton, betele-nut, coffee, turpentine, gums, &g. ; virhile the 
forests abound with a great variety of valuable woods, such as 
ebony, pine, sandtil, eagle or aloes, teak, manchineel, iron-wood, 
and tfie far-famed banyan-tret — more properly named by the Por- 
tuguese, arbor de rails ^ and by the Malays, jawee-jawee. This 
tree, as is well known, possesses the singular property of dropping 
fibres from such parts of its boughs as incline to the earth, which 
takb root, and become new stems or trunks. It thus goei^ on 
increasing, until one has been knovim to measure in circumference 
upwards of one thousand feet — to cast a shade at noon of more 
• than eleven hundred feet — and to aiford abimdant shelter for a 
troop of horse. We have seen an account of one of these trees, 
which waved its boughs at the height of two hundred feet ; rising 
from, or rather resting on, roots, if they may be so called, occu- 
pying at least one hundred feet, forming, by the close and singular 
combination, the appearance of a venerated Gothic pillar. It stood 
near the plains of Crocup ; and, like other monuments of an- 
tiquity, has had its period of existence, and has long since been 
DO more ! 

Besides the many articles of commerce afforded by the varied 
vegetable kingdom of Sumatra, there are productions appertain- 
ing to another kingdom which claim to be enumerated among the 
riches of this island. We have already, in a previous part of this 
article, very briefly alluded to the various metals which are found 
blended with, or lying beneath, the soil. Gold abounds in some 
parts of the island, but principally in the centre ; south of the 
Leemoon,.a branch of the Jambi river, and to the north of Na- 
lohoo, from whence Acheen is principally supplied. It was the 
vicinity of these treasures which probably, in the first instance, 
induced the Dutch to establish themselves at Padang. The Ma- 
lays are the only class of inhabitants who make a business of 
procuring the precious metal, either from the beds of rivers, 
mingled with the sand, or sometimes by loosening the adjacent 
banks. In a few instances they have attempted digging; but 
their excavations have never extended deep. The metal is pro- 



1832.] ISLAND 0» dUMATftl. 155 

cured in a malleable state, and seldom undergoes any process of 
refining to purify it for the market, where opium and fine goods 
are expected in return. Mines of copper and tin, as before stated, 
abound in the island and its jieighbour Banca, where it is said to 
have been accidentally discorered by the burning of a house in 
1710, and was long worked by a colony of Chinese, under the con- 
trol of the Dutch, at Palembang, who grasped st the whole tiade. 
We have abready stated that the island of Banca was ceded to 
the British by the Sultan of Palembang, in the year 1812; 
Billeton Isle, which lies about sixty miles east of Banca, was 
ceded at the same time. This last named island, which is almost 
a perfect quadrangle, with a coast facing the four cardinal points 
of the horizon, is about fifty miles in extent each way, and has 
long been celebrated for producing the fine steel of which the 
Malays manufacture their arms. Banca had, for many years, 
been the resort of a numerous horde of pirates, who acted imder 
the immediate protection of the sultan and court of Palembang* 
Minto, the capital of the island, is situated near the sea, towards 
the west, at the foot of the mountain called Monophin. There is 
anchorage in from six to twelve fathoms ; a sandy point at the 
northwest afibrding shelter to ships firom the boisterous waves 
which roll into the straits from the Java Sea, as well as from the 
northwest winds, which often blow very hard along the coast of 
Sumatra during the monsoons. At the pacification of Europe in 
1814, B^nca was again ceded to the Dutch by treaty. 

We have thus taken a hasty and excursive view of the Island 
of Sumatra, and trust that the reader has accompanied us. We 
have seen the capacities of its soil, and the varied richness of its 
vegetable and animal kingdom. How rich, in point of external 
appearance and grandeur, is the inheritance of the Malay ! In 
the soft and rich taints of its mountains, the velvet covering of its 
hills, — its wild cascades, placid lakes, rapid streams, — Sumatra 
may challenge comparison with the world ! Why has nature 
been so extravagant ? Why bestow in many parts where human 
footsteps seldoiji tread, all that is sublime — all that is beautiful — 
all that is calculated to elevate the jnind which is susceptible of 
noble impressions ! 

Is it solely for the Malay, the living Ishmaelite of the world, 
that prolific nature has been thus bountiful? The Malay — 



166 TOTAGB OP THB POTOMAC. [February, 

treacherous, cruel, and yindictire as he is — ^fierce and unrelenting 
as the tiger of his own mountains, by which he is often destroyed, 
—is still a being entitled to the sympathy and compassion of the 
civilized world ; and we cannot but pity his condition, eren when 
his yices demaaad a measure of punishment at our hands. How 
black and damning would be the page ^containing an account of 
his wrongs from boasted Christians, since the year 1510, when 
Albuquerque landed on his shores. For three centuries, what 
has been the history of Europeans trading on his coast, under 
the direction of heartless, grasping monopolies, but a record of 
oppressions, cruel exactions, and abominable injustice! To the 
holhour of the British name, though her track in the east has, in 
all directions, been stained with blood, she has ever shovm more 
humanity than either of her former powerful competitors ; whose 
every thought, impulse, and action, appear to have been concen- 
trated in one festering canker — ^insatiable avarice ! 

But we leave this picture to be resumed in another place ; and 
firom the leafy groves, rich plains, and varied productions, shall 
attempt a more close analysis of the Malay himself ; and trust 
that the reader will find something to repay him for his trouble 
in turning our pages. 




• \ 



1832.] IBLAXO OF SUHATKA. 157 



CHAPTER X. 

The Malays of Sumatra — Difficulty of delineating their Character — Their Langtutge, 
Poetry, 6cc. — Five different Languages spoken in Sumatra — Malay DapUcity— 
Effects of their intercourse with Foreigners — Conscious Inferiority — Erroneous 
Policy formerly exercised towards them — Favourable Traits in their Charact«r— 
The Rejangs — ^Their Laws, Customs, and Political Regulations — Their judicial 
Proceedings — ^Manner of taking an Oath — Rights V)f Inheritance, 6lc. — Their 
.' secret Hoards — Security for Debts — Punishment for Theft and Murder — Court- 

^^L ship, Marriage, and DiTorces — Cock-fighting — Use of the Betele-nut — ^Tobacco-^ 

Early Maturity of Females — Funeral Obsequies — Religious and superstitious 
Notions — ^The Lampoons — ^Their Hospitality. 

Agreeably to our promise made in the conclusion of the last 
chapter, we now proceed to a closer analysis of the character of 
the inhabitants of Sumatra. This is :not a very easy task to 
perform, as we find in many places but little indigenous among 
them. There is also some difficulty in adopting a standard with 
which to compare them, divided, as they are, into numerous tribes^ 
and presenting, as they do, at each step, in the same tribe, |SO 
many lights and shades, vices mingled with some virtues, forming 
an endless chain of perplexing contradictions. 

Perhaps the standard adopted by Le Poivre, Robinson, Rich- 
ardson, and other writers of reputed learning, is the best that can 
be given. They agree in assigning to nations various grades; 
giving to Greece and Rome, in the days of their ancient splendour, 
the first rank, with which may now be classed England, France, 
some of the other nations of Europe, and the United States. 
The second will include the Asiatic empires and Turks, in the 
days of their dominion, magnificence, and grandeur ; while in the 
third, fourth, and fifth classes, as they are distinguished by the 
degree of perfection of their agriculture, progress in the arts, 
science of numbers, and use of abstract terms, may be classed 
the Sumatrans, in common with the Holoans, and other states of 
the eastern Archipelago; the nationg on the northern coast of 
Africa ; Mexicans and Peruvians before the conquest ; together 
with the Carribs, New-Hollanders, Laplanders, and Hottentots* 
Possessing shades of character in common with all these will be 



168 YOTAGB OP THB POTOMAC. [Februaiy, 

found the Sumatrans, and we leare the reader to make his own 
distinctions, and form his own comparisons, as we proceed. 

The Malay language, long and justly celebrated for its smooth- 
ness and softness, like the Malays themselves, has partially 
extended itself over the whole island ; at least, there are few parts 
of the island where it is not understood by some, while in other 
distHcts it forms the lingua franca of all classes. 

They devote many of their leisure hours to singing extempo- 
raneous sonnets, which are more remarkable for sententious 
qualities than truly poetic spirit, if the following may be consid- 
ered a fair sample : — 

" Apo goono paasang paleeto, 

CaUo teedah dangmn soomboonUt 
' Apo goono bennine matto, 

Callo teeda dangan soongoonia V* 

** What signifies attempting to light a lamp. 
If the wick be wanting t 
What signifies making lote with the eyes, 
If nothing in earnest be intended V* 

A wickless lamp can riiow no flame. 

To light it baffles human art ; 
Then why should lying eyes proclaim 

A love, that dwells not in the heart 1 

The city of Palembang, so long the emporium of the inland 
commerce of the island, is the point which has always been con- 
sidered as taking the lead, and fixing the court etiquette among 
the Malay princes, and the language spoken there as the standard 
of the Malay tongue. In writing, the Arabic characters are used, 
introduced at the time of the dissemination of the Mahometan 
religion. They have pap^r and ink of their own composition, 
and write with the pen of the anou-tree. We believe it has 
never been ascertained that even the Malays of the Peninsula of 
Malacca had any original written language peculiar to themselves, 
previous to the country being overrun by Mussulmen during the 
thirteenth century. 

There are several languages, however, besides the Malay, 
spoken on the island, especially in the interior. And what appears 
to be most remarkable is, that two tribes, the Battas and Rejangs, 



t- 



j 



1832.J 



ISLAND OF SUMATRA. 



159 



both possessing equal and undisputed claims of being the original 
• inhabitants, not only speak languages different from each other, 
but employ characters essentially different. All this has oc- 
curred among tribes residing but a comparatively short distance 
apart, and bearing unquestionable evidence of having descended 
from the same original stock. The language of the Lampoons 
bears a close afSnity to that spoken by the Rejangs, vrhile the 
Achenese, using the Arabic characters in considerable purity, has 
less claim to originality. 

The inner bark of a tree, or pieces of bamboo, «plit and shaped 
for the purpose, serve as tablets for the preserration of their 
records. In writing, they move the hand and form the line from 
left to right, as yfe do ; while the Malays and Arabs practise the 
contrary. In harmony, these languages are far inferior to the 
Malay, as will be seen by the following table from Marsden^ 
which we introduce for the gratification of the curious. 

Spbcxicenb or Lanouagxs spokbn in Sumitka. 





Malay. 


Acheen. 


Batta. 


Rejang. 


Lampded, 


One, 


Satoo, 


Sah, 


Sadah, 


Do, 


Sye. 


Two, 


Duo, • 


Dua, 


Duo, 


Dooy, 


Rowah. 


Three, 


Teego, 


Tloo, 


Toloo, 


Tellou, 


Tulloo. 


Four, 


Ampat, 


Paat, 


Opat, 


*Mpat, 


Ampah. 


Five, 


Leemo, 


Leemung, 


Leemah, 


Lemo, 


Leemah. 


Six, 


Ananif 


'Nam, 


Onam, 


Noom, 


Annam. 


Seven, 


Toojoo, 


Toojoo, 


Paitoo, 


Toojooa, 


Peetoo. 


Eight, 


Slappan, 


D'lappan, 


Ooalloo, 


Delapoon, 


Ooalloo. 


Nine, 


Sambilan, 


Sakoorang, 


Seeah, 


Sembilan, 


Seewah. 


Ten, 


Sapooloo, 


Saploo, 


$apooIoo, 


Depooloo, 


Pooloo. 


Husband, 


Lackee, 


Lackaye, 


Morah, 


Lackye, 


Cadjoon. 


Wife, 


Beenee, 


Beenaye, 


Aboo, 


Sooma, 


Cadjoon. 


Father, 


Bapa, 


Bah, 


Ammah, 


Bapa, 


Bapa. 


Mother, 


Mau, 


Mau, 


Enang, 


Indo, 


Eenah. 


Head, 


Capallo, 


Oolou, 


Ooloo, 


Oolou, 


Oolooh. 


Eyee,- 


Matto, 


Matta, 


Mahtab, 


Matty, 


Maitah. 


Noee, 


Eedong, 


Eedoon, 


Aygong, 


Eeoong, 


Eerong. 


Hair, 


Ramboot, 


Oh, 


Oboo, 


Boo, 


Booho. 


Teeth, 


Geeggee, 


Geguy, 


Ningee, 


Aypen, 


Eepan. 


Hand, 


Tangan, 


Jarrooay, 


Tangan, 


Tangoon, 


Chooloo. 


Day, 


Haree, 


Ooraye, 


Torang-haree, 


y Beely-Iooeng, 


Ramiee. 


Night, 


MaUam, 


MaUam, 


Borgning, 


B.-calemmooD, 


» Beengbeei 


White, 


Pootee, 


Pootee, 


Nabottar, 


Pooteah, 


. Mandack. 


Black, 


Etam, 


Hetam, 


Nabeerong, 


Meloo, 


Malloom. 


Good, 


Baye, 


Gaet, 


Dengan, 


Baye, 


Buttie. 


Die, 


Mattee, 


Mattoj, 


Mahtay, 


Mattoee, 


Jahal. 



140 rmJSE or tie fotdhac. {FAnary, 



Tim, 


A|ip««, 


Appoo^, 


Afapoe, 


Opo^. 


Aphooj. 


VitK, 


Aver, 


£ca:. 


Avck, 


XMSOiCf 


"Wye. 


tmA. 


Tua. 


Tano, 


Tana, 


Peet., 


Tamo. 


Cmmmi 


t, Cbfipo, 


o.. 


dambee. 


ISCOKy 


Oappah. 


liH^ 


Bn». 




Dabm, 


Blaa, 


Faea.. 

• 


riitw 


EecitB, 


IncoK, 


Dakkar, 




Ewah. 


ibg. 


Babee, 


JBooT. 


Babee, 


Sooofftemiva, 


Baboove. 

• 




M «tt»-ksree, Msttownve, 


Xafatab-barae, 


Mattv-beelvt 


Mata-niiiM. ' 


Mom, 


«»--» — 


Boolooii, 


Booian, 


Booioon, 


Boolan. 


I. 


Andia-Savo. 


Ooloon, 


Apoo, 


Ookoo, 


Gniah. 


f n rM 




DaibattalL 


OobrtaUo, 
nrtt HiflnpT ar 


Alla-uDa. 
1 Tniir-Vi frTwn 



die odber and original inhabitants of the island, as in the qualities 
of dieir minds. They possess the semblance of more pride, but 
it is not that laadable pride which restrains from the commission 
of dishonourable and mean acts. Under the most subdued and 
studied composure of countenance, with cunning and plausible 
duplicity, they will dissemble the most violent passions and 
inret^ate hatred, until a favourable moment of i^Teakina their 
▼engeanoe on the object of their dislike shall arrire. Veracity, 
gntitode, aild integrity, cannot be said to belong to the list of their 
Firtues, while sentiments of honour and infamy, as a general 
lemariL, are scarcely distinguishable among them. In courage, a 
thousand examples of desperate conflicts with the Portuguese, 
Dutch, and Enghsh, to say nothing of the recent combat at Qual- 
lah-Battoo, mi^t be adduced to show they are not wanting. But 
it is generally the effect of momentary enthusiasm, rather than 
that cool and deliberate bravery which bears up imder reverses, 
and is at all times superior to misfortune. 

Indeed, the tout ensemble of their character seems strongly 
marked by degeneracy, and they give but little promise of any 
inunediate improvement. The influence of the age has effected 
them bgt little, nor have they gained much by three hundred years' 
ccHnmunion with the Christian world. This is not to be wondered 
at. That intercourse has not been of a character to do them 
good. In point of example, they have too often witnessed licen- 
tiousness in the foreign establishments on their shores ; pleasures 
of the table, excessive use of wine, boisterous mirth, and puerile 
amusements. These things could not pass before their eyes 
without exciting contemptuous animadversions. 



1892.] tSLAKD OF SUMATRA. 161 

They haye seen foreign manufactures brou^^t ready for their 
use, in exchange for the productions of their soil, but they haye 
not witnessed the process by which these articles were made. 
How, then, could they improve by their intercourse with the 
boasted Christianizers of Hie heathen world? They feel, and 
often acknowledge, their inferiority. It is mentioned by Marsden, 
that a natire had been heard to exclaim, after contemplating the 
structure and use of a house clock, '' Is it not fitting that such 
as we should be slaves to people who have the ingenuity to invent, 
and the skill to construct, so wonderful a machine as this ?^— 
" The sun," he added, " is a machine of this nature." — " But who 
winds it up ?" said his companion.. " Who but Allah ?" replied he. 

It is to be hoped, however, that the more humane and liberal 
spirit which so happUy begins to mark the intercourse of Chns* 
tian nations in their commercial transactions with the east, will 
ultimately produce happier results upon the moral condition of its 
inhabitants. The period of subjugation, of dethroning and setting 
up sultans, as the sordid interests of heartless and almost irre- 
sponsible companies may require, it is hoped, is drawing rajadly 
to a close. England, with her immense wealth and extended 
influence, has an awful responsibility in this great work ; the 
independent and probing spirit which has marked her recent par- 
liamentary proceedings and investigations into the abuses and 
condition of her East India Company concerns, promises much 
that is favourable in coming time : while the noble and really true 
comn>ercial spirit of our own country, carrying on trade to all 
parts of the world, without caring for or wanting possessions in 
foreign soil, is destined to have its full share of influence ; and 
may, if properly looked to by our government, be turned greatly 
to our advantage, as it has already, in many places, attracted the 
attention of the natives, and rendered them firiendly disposed 
towards us. 

But this is a digression, and we return to the native inhabitants 
of the island, who, from long intercourse with the Malays, appear 
to have imbibed many of their vices ; so that the virtues they 
still retain are rather negative in character. They are mild, 
peaceable, and forbearing, except when roused by some sudden 
and violent provocation, when they too can show a full share of 
implacability in their resentments. They are temperate and 

L 

I 

% 



108 voYAOB OF THE POTOMAC. [Febmaiyy 

sober, living principally on vegetables, while their only beverage 
is water, taken in cocoanut-shells from the limpid stream ; and 
though they will kill a fowl or a goat for a stranger, whom per- 
haps they never saw before, nor ever expect to see again, they 
are seldom known to indulge in such luxuries themselves ; not 
even at their festivals, where the entertainment is prepared with 
meats in abundance, are they known to indulge to excess. In 
manners they are simple, in apprehension quick, and by no 
means wanting in sagacity. Their women are modest, and 
evince a good share of sensibility. In deportment they are grave, 
and always courteous and guarded in their expressions. This is 
the bright side of the picture. On the other side are represented 
litigations, indolence, incorrigible gambling, dishonesty in their 
desdings with strangers — deemed among them no moral defect — 
suspiciousness, want of regard for truth, meanness in their trans- 
actions, and improvidence of the future. The latter can scarcely be 
charged as a crime to them, for the climate in a great measure has 
made them improvident, as it makes all people, more or less, when 
nature, with wonderful facility, supplies all that is essential to 
existence. « 

South of Indrapoor, once the seat of a considerable monarchy 
in the southern portion of the island, is the country of the Rejangs, 
who live in villages, or doosoons, each under the government of 
a magistrate called dupatty ; while the chief, who presides over 
and governs all, is called pangeran. But among a people without 
arts, without industry, and above all, without property, the au- 
thority of the prince must be limited, and his government founded 
on opinion, and the obedience and submission of his subjects 
voluntary. So it is with the Rejangs ; so it has ever been with 
primitive man ; and so it is with other governments throughout 
the island. Where the natives have been subjugated by foreign 
powers, held by the spirit of conquest long in subjection, the 
feudal maxims may be seen to prevail ; while those who have 
occupied remote situations, from disposition, or no matter from 
what cause, have remained undisturbed and unaffected by the 
vipous changes which have been going on around them : there 
may still be seen the rules, the simplicity, of patriarchal life. 

In appointing the heads of the doosoons, the pangeran does little 
else than confirm the nominations of the people themselves. The 



1832.] ISLAND OP SUMATRA. 163 

line of descent is hereditary from father to son ; though in case 
of minority, or other defect, a brother or near relation may take 
upon himself the supreme authority, not as regent, for the minor, 
if there be one, can only come in at the next vacancy. 

Until about one hundred and fifty years ago, the southern part 
of Sumatra, including the Rejang country, and as far north as the 
river Oori, was dependant on the King of Bantam, and annually 
received a commissioner from him to superintend the collection of 
revenue and confirm the deputed authority. In the districts bor- 
dering on the coasts, extensive pepper plantations vfere formerly 
cultivated, and it viras these people who acted so enthusiastically 
and bravely in expelling the English from Fort Marlborough in the 
year seventeen hundred and nineteen. 

Custom, among the Rejangs, constitutes the supreme law of 
the land, the authority consulted on all occasions in the settlement 
of their disputes, and from which none claim exemption. In- 
deed, there has been discovered no word among any of the native 
languages on the island, which may be said properly to signify 
law ; nor are there any individuals among them regularly clothed 
with legislative powers. The chiefs, when pronouncing their 
sentences in the most important cases, accompany their verdict 
with the expression, '' such is the custom.'' When a new case 
arises, for the decision of which there appears to be no precedent, 
great formaHty and deliberation are observed in coming to a con- 
clusion. The pangeran himself cannot decide the question ; he 
must consult the proatteensj or inferior chiefs, who, upon their 
part, frequently ask time to reflect and to consult with the inhabi- 
tants of the doosoons ; but when a point has thus been delib- 
erately considered and acted on, it takes rank with the customs 
which have been handed down from time immemorial, and its 
authority cannot be called in question. 

On these principles, at certain appointed times, the chiefs 
of the district assemble together and form a sort of court for 
hearing and deciding on all disputed questions brought before 
them: 

Their customs, which may be said to constitute their common 
law, under another name, after having been long preserved and 
handed down from one generation to another, were, during the last 
century, formed into a written code, as it appears, at the instance 

l2 



IM TOTA0I OF THB POTOXAC. [Febnury, 

of the British resident residing in their conntryy and exorcising no 
small degree of influence oyer them. 

In the prosecution of all suits under tShese rulesy the plaintiff 
and defendant are allowed to make their own statements before 
the chiefiEi of the doasoons^ or they may employ a proatUen^ or 
any other person to appear for them, which in their language is 
caUed *^pinjam nwolooty to borrow a mouth." Their rules of 
endence are peculiar to themselves, as they do not admit testimony 
on both sides of any disputed point. He who brings a suit against 
another, is asked in the commencement by whom he intends to 
prore his allegation. His witness must not be his relation ; he 
most not be a party concerned ; and, in some instances, he must 
niot even reside in the same village. The point to which he is ez« 
pected to give testimony is then mentioned to him, when, if he 
cmifirm the statement, the question at issue is established. 

Their oaths are appeals to superior powers, to whom alone 
they are answerable ; a false swearer not being amenable to pun- 
ishment by the usages of the Rejangs. A general and deeply per- 
vading sentiment, however, prevails, that the unseen powers pun- 
ish the perjured, either in person, in his children, or in his great- 
grandchildren. Nor has this superstitious belief been slow to re- 
cord many instances, when the most direful judgments have fallen 
upon the person or family of the false swearer. They are solemn, 
superstitious, and gravely ceremonious in their forms of adminis- 
tering an oath ; often visiting the graves of their ancestors, for 
the sake of greater solemnity. This only takes place far in the 
interior ; while along the coast, the Malay customs and Koran 
prevail. They sometimes swear by placing their hands upon the 
earth, and vrishing it may never again bring forth nourishment to 
them if they bear false witness. Sometimes they lay their hands, 
upon bullets, krisses, gun-barrels, &c. ; these being instruments 
of destruction. It is then the Rejang, who trembles with fear at 
the idea of the harm he may receive from an invisible power, in 
which he believes, without having any just conception of his own 
immortality, is restrained from the crime of bearing false witness 
against his neighbour. " For when the gentiles, who have not the 
law, do by nature the things contained in the law ; these having 
not the law, are a law unto themselves.'' 

On the death of a Rejang, his male children inherit his property 






ISSfL] ISLAND OP BVMA'ntA. IdS 

in equal shares ; the widow and daughters being dependant on the 
•sons. In these divisions, the paternal residence, as a general nde, 
falls to the lot of the eldest : the exception is, when a younger 
member of the family is more talented or worthy, he may take 
precedence of the elder, and succeed to the patrimony of the 
doosoan. 

For a long time, the custom has prevailed among them of set- 
ting apart a portion of their money to be deposited ia some secret 
place, known to themselres only. .To this hidden treasure they 
are accustomed to look for consolation, when orertaken by any 
unforeseen misfortune. This is probably a borrowed custom, as it 
is practised by the Malays at the present time, along the whole 
pepper coast. Whaterer may be the motive, or its origin among 
the Rejangs, it is not adopted by the Malays from motives of pru- 
dential foresight, but from a feeling of universal distrust, as well 
of each other as of strangers. A Malay, generally speaking; 
has confidence neither in his father nor his mother ; nor is his 
wife intrusted with his confidence, for. his money is usually buried 
where no one can approach the spot but himself. Almost every 
Malay, therefore, on his deathbed, has some important secret to 
impart to his family or his inmiediate friends : when sudden death 
overtakes him, the treasure is irredeemably lost. 

A person unwilling to be answerable for the debts or actions of 
his son, or other relations imder his charge, may outlaw him, by 
which,' from that period, all family connexion is relinquished, and 
he is no longer responsible for his conduct. All debts, however, 
must be paid up to the period when the individual is outlawed. 

The Saxons had a custom very similar to this among them, but 
it related more particularly to the murderer. The family became 
exempt from feuds when they abandoned the culprit to his fate, 
binding themselves neither to hold commimion vnth him, norafibrd 
him assistance. 

In order to convict, in all cases of theft, the article stolen must 
either be found on the thief, or he must be taken in the act. The 
punishment is, to pay double the value of the goods stolen, a fine 
of twenty dollars, and a buffalo ; for smaller offences, a fine of 
five dollars and a goat. 

If any person shall pass the night in the house of another, and 
leave it in the morning before daybreak without giving notice to 



166 yoTAos OP THX POTOMAC. [Febroaiy, 

the funily, he shall be held responsible for whatever may be lost 
diiriDg the night : but if he commit any thing in keeping to the 
care of his host, then, if his effects be lost, he must be made good. 
When the owner and his guest both lose property, then they shall 
make oath to each other of their mutual innocence. As stated be- 
fore, where the Mahometan religion prevails, the Koran is used 
for administering oaths. 

Among the Rejangs, murder, the greatest of all crimes, may 
be expiated by the payment of a fine ; the amount is not propor- 
tioned in any case to the rank and condition of the murderer, but 
according to the importance of the person whose life has been 
aacrificed. The value of mens' lives, therefore, is not esteemed 
equal. If a murderer hare not property sufficient to pay the fine 
imposed on him by* the authorities, then his nearest family rela- 
tions are held responsible, and eren the village where he lives, or 
he may be sold as a slave. 

In this, as in many other respects, there is a striking resemblance 
between their customs and those of the Araucanian Indians of 
South America. We once travelled twenty leagues in company 
with a cacique, or chief, who was on his journey. to receive a I 

number of horses and cattle firom a distant settlement, where one 
of his relatives had been murdered ; and the atonement, in this 
instance, had been assumed by the family of the murderer, who 
was himself too poor to pay. It does not appear, therefore, from 
the spirit of their customs, that fines are imposed so much for the 
punishment of the guilty, as for an atonement or compensation to 
the family of the deceased. This is confirmed by the fact, that 
they make no distinction between wilful murder and manslaugh- 
ter : the loss to the living being the same, the fines are equal. 

This custom comes down by tradition firom a remote period, 
beyond the introduction of Mahometanism upon the island. 
Among our Saxon ancestors, and northern nations, a compensa- 
tion was admitted for murder : it is the '* eric of Ireland, and the 
aponai of the Greeks." Among the Rejangs, corporeal punish- 
ments are rare, and confinement in chains unknovim ; the danger- 
ous persons are sometimes enclosed in small houses prepared for 
the purpose, or, in their own significant language, *' We pen him 
up as we would a bear." The right of holding persons in slavery 



'' » 



ISdS.] MLAKD OF SUMATRA. lOT 

is admitted, though not much practised, except by the Malays along 
the coast. 

As respects courtship -and marriage, the Rejangs have several 
curious observances not undeserving of notice. They practise 
but little ceremony in their courtships ; their characters and man- 
ners do not admit of it. The lover and his mistress are carefully 
kept separated as soon as the old folks have an inkling that there 
is such a thing in agitation. Indeed, the fair one is seldom per- 
mitted to leave the shelter of her mother's wing. . 

The young Rejangs, however, are not to be considered as 
wanting in gallantry ; for it is said that they often evince a degree of 
delicacy towards the sex which might, perhaps, be emulated with 
advantage by people of higher pretensions to refinement. This 
trait, however, must not be considered as applicable Jto every indi- 
vidual. Months and years are not wasted in wooing a coy and 
fickle fair one. He does not assail her with a volley of darts, 
flames, and raptures. When he has selected a female as the 
object of his choice, he knows exactly what she is to cost him ; 
not in sighs and tears, and doubts and fears, but in good hard 
cash, the amount of which is probably all he is worth in the 
world, and which, once paid, places the obligation in his favour. 

The principal intercourse of the young people takes place at 
their dances, festivals, and other amusements, where they are not 
backward in making their own selections ; for old maids and old 
bachelors are by no means so plenty in Sumatra as catamounts 
and tigers. As soon as his choice is fixed, the lover, or boojongj 
employs an old woman to communicate his sentiments to the 
mistress of his affections, or gaddees, whose parents then take the 
affair into their own hands, and if no obstacle intervene, bring it 
to a final consummation. 

There are several modes of marriage practised among them. 
The joojoor is a fixed sum of money paid down by the man to 
the father as a compensation for his daughter. In a marriage of 
this sort, the relation which is established between the husband 
and wife can differ but little firom that which exists between a 
master and his slave. The relation may be one of great kind- 
ness ; but if so, it must be from condescension on the one part, 
and not firom equafity of the parties. By leaving a part of the 
price unpaid, whidd is generally done firom a sense of delicacy. 



\ 



168 YOYAOB OF THE POTOMAC. [Febnuuy, 

thoa^ it be only five dollars, the relationship is still preserved 
between the families, and the parents of the female can interfere 
in her behalf in case of ill treatment. But if from any cause 
ita balance be finally paid, then the right of the husband becomes 
absolute, and the woman is to all intents and purposes his slave ; 
when her power to claim a divorce ceases, and she may be dis- 
posed of at the will of her husband ; provided, that in all instances 
the offer be first made to her relations. 

It very often happens, however, as before stated, that marriages 
take place without the whole of the money being paid down ; 
and that years are allowed to toll on without any demand being 
made. The debt, however, is deemed sacred, and can never be 
outlawed by time, and is sometimes collected. by the second and 
third generations. 

There is a form of marriage called sebage^ in which exchanges 
are made ; the daughter of one neighbour for the son of another ; 
and a brother will give a sister in exchange for a wife for himself. 
The prices paid vary often according to contract ; though when 
suits arise, andde amount has to be fixed by law, or the decisions 
of the authorities, the sum of one hundred and twenty dollars is 
alvTays awarded. 

So completely is the marriage contract a matter of commercial 
arrangement among these people, that it not unfrequently occurs 
that firiends and neighbours borrow a girl from each other to effect 
some matrimonial arrangement, binding themselves at the same 
time to return another in her place when needed, or to pay the 
joojoor when required. If the parents or relations ^of a youth go 
to the parents of a girl to make a contract, the sum of six dollars 
is usually paid as an earnest of the compact ; after which, the girl 
cannot be disposed of to another without incurring upon the 
parents a fine for failing to comply with the first agreement. 
This fine, however, is often incurred ; for while the old people 
are arranging their family affairs in reference to the approaching 
nuptials between their children, miss takes it into her head to 
love some other youth, and very naughtily determines to form 
a match of her own choice by eloping with her favourite swain ; 
and the law, breathing a spirit of indulgence and humanity, sanc- 
tions the act. 

By the Mosaic law, if a man left a widow without children^ 



188S.] ISLAND OF BUXATRA. 109 

his brother was to manry her with or without children — so 
among the Rejangs and Malays, a brother or near relation 
marries the widow, and assumes all the legal responsibilities of 
the deceased. 

There is another mode of marriage practised, though growing 
out of use in late years, called ambelana ; by which a young man, 
by marrying into a fan^ilj, becomes, in fact, the property of his 
wife's parents, and occupies a place between that of a son and a 
debtor. He partakes in the use of all the property of the family, 
but has no right or title in it. His plantation, his pepper gardens, 
are all the property of his newly-made parents, who in turn be« 
come responsible for him and all the debts he may contract ; hold- 
ing also a power of divorcing him at will, and of sending him back, 
poor and naked, to his family, or as an outlaw upon tha community* 

The mode of marriage, howerer, most common, is the semundOf 
introduced by the Malays, which is much more simple and- just, 
as the parties meet and treat with each other on the principle of 
equality. All the effects, gains, and earnings become joint 
property; and should a divorce take place at any subsequent 
period by the mutual consent of the parties, the property shall, in 
all such cases, be equally divided between them. By the influ- 
ence and authority of the Rejang chiefs and Malay padres, this 
custom by semundo has become very generally adopted. 

But by whatever mode the nuptial ceremonies are consummated, 
joy and hilarity, dances, feasting, and song, are the usual attend- 
ants ; nor do these amusements cease for several days, unless the 
whole supplies prepared for the occasion are exhausted. The 
young women, gaddeesy ox goddesses y are dressed in their finest 
attire, and not only mingle with sprightliness in the dance, but 
sing in low, sweet, and plaintive airs the outpourings of their 
hearts, in the soft suffusions of their loves ; which, as a point of 
the utmost gallantry and fashion, is responded to by the boojongs^ 
or young men, who gain credit in proportion to their adroitness in 
this indispensable accomplishment. 

Among the amusements of the men, there is nothing of which 
they are so fond as of cock-fighting. This is a vice common to 
the whole island ; it isj indeed, their master passion. Their bets 
often nm high, staking all they are worth; and instances have 
oocuired of a father staking his children, his wife, or a sister, on 



170 YOYAOB OF THE POTOMAC. [Febroaij, 

the issue of a fight. They have regular rules adopted for the 
goremment of these feathered tournaments, and observe them 
with great scrupulosity. Besides this, they pit and fight quails ; 
practise the amusement of fencing, a rude sport, in which they 
practise strange antics and contortions of the body, resembling 
in some respects the pyric, or war-dance, of the ancients. They 
hare also a diversion among them of tossing a ball, in which they 
show a great deal of dexterity, receiving or tossing it with equal 
agility from the hand, toe, or heel of the foot, either into the air, 
or obliquely from one place to another. The Phoenicians practised 
a similar amusement, as described by Homer. 

The use of the betele-nut pervades all ranks, and both sexes 
learn to chew it at an early age. No one goes abroad vrithout 
the article with him ; the wealthy carrying it in gold or silver 
boxes, and the poor in brass boxes or mat bags. It enters into all 
their little courtesies and civilities of life ; is always offered on 
meeting, and as a matter of politeness is never refiised. When 
the first salutation is over, the betele is offered as a token of hos- 
pitality. Of tobacco they are also fond, and use it of their own 
raising, as well as the importations of that article from China. 

Oratory is highly esteemed, and there are many fluent speakers 
among them. This is natural among people in whose deliber- 
ations all are allowed to speak, and where superior talents are 
siure to give a corresponding degree of influence and importance 
to the possessor. 

The women among the Rejangs, like the fruits of their coun- 
try, are soon ripe, and soon decay ; they are mothers at fifteen, 
look old at thirty, and are gray-headed and shrivelled at forty. 
They keep no record of their ages, though fifty may be considered 
old, and few live beyond the period of sixty years. 

In the villages a broad plank is kept, sometimes for generations, 
upon which, at their funerals, the corpse is carried to the burial- 
grounds. No cofiin is used, and the subject is interred at a decent 
depth, wrapped round with a white piece of cloth. The women 
who attend the funeral keep up a hideous howl. At the head of 
the grave, a little shrub, or white flower, is always planted with 
care, and at the end of twelve months, a visit to the grave is 
performed by surviving friends ; at which time a buffalo is killed, 
and a feast takes place, in honour of the deceased. All their 



1882.] ISLAND OF STTMATRA. 171 

burial-places are regarded with an extraordinary degree of rer- 
erence. 

Beyond the influence of Mahometanism, the Rejangs have 
not, and probably never have had any reUgion of their own. None 
at least has ever been discovered among them. They have no 
form of prayers, no processions, no meetings, no images, no 
priests.^ They believe, however, in the existence of invisible 
spirits of some kind, and attribute to them the power of influencing 
their destinies for good or for evil while in this world ; and it is to 
these powers they are accustomed to make their appeals in their 
forms of taking an oath. They are said to have no idea of a 
future st^e, except such dim glimmerings as have been shed 
upon them by the Mahometan religion. Our own observations, 
however limited, on savage life, have gone far to impress us with 
the belief, that the eternal principle, the vital spark, which is in- 
cased in every human body, however remote from civilization, or 
low and degraded in the scale of human beings, will, under one 
form or another, if rightly understood, give evidence of its own 
consciousness of immortality. 

" *Ti8 the diymitj which stin within us, 
'Tis Heaven itself that points out an hereafter, 

And intimates eternity to man !'' 

• 

If it be not so, why does the Laplander picture to himself that 
after this life he shall traverse verdant plains, ever blooming in 
spring, and abounding with herds of fat raindeer, as a reward for 
his good deeds in this world, or bleak, desolate mountains, as 
a punishment for his bad actions ? Why does the Hindoo believe 
in the transmigration of the souls of men into animals; why the 
Araucanians bury their dead in rude canoes, with provisions to 
last during the unknown passage across tlwj^ great water, whose 
tranquil waves, as they believe, wash the confines of another 
world ? These are the dim lights of inrmiortality in the breast 
of rude man. To mark these gleamings of the spirit, and trace 
out their existence, constitute one of the most pleasing inquiries 
of the Christian philosopher. 

Nor will the Rejangs be found an exception ; for they believe 
that tigers are endowed with the spirits of departed men; and so 
strong is this superstition, that they will not put one of these ani- 
mals to death, except in actual self-defence. Indeed, the very 



m ' rot ABM ok TD poroMAc. [Fefarimj^ 

Mme of the tiger iuBpiies them with awe^ and they have a belief 
among them, that in some remote and hitherto mifreqnented por- 
tioii (rf the island, these aiumals have a Tillage, a court, and lire 
in hots, thatched with womte's hair. The destruction committed 
by these ferocious beasts upon the inhabitants is almost incredible ; 
Ibr whole villages are said to have been nearly depopulated by 
them. When attacked, they often show great courage in defend- 
ing themselves and each other. 

it was related to us by one of our most intelligent shifmiasterB, 
who had frequented the coast, that while lying at anchor In one 
of their small ports, a native was brought in shockingly lacerated 
in the hip and side by the ftuigs of the tiger. He had been visit- 
ing his pepper garden, but a diort distance from the village, and 
on his return, fortunately with a companion, the animal lay couched 
in a secret spot, and springing out, suddenly seized him, before he 
had vraming that danger was nigh. His companion, who had 
passed a few rods ahead, heard his screams, and though armed 
with nothing but a Am, he returned, and attacked the monster with 
such courage and effect, that he was soon glad to let go his Jiold ; 
and vrith the blood streaming from his wounds, bounded ofi^ and 
was soon hid from sight amid impenetrable jungle. The wounds 
<tf the native were seared over vrith a hot iron, and by other arts 
peculiar to themselves, he was soon restored to perfect health. 

They believe that trees, especially such as have an antiquated 
or venerable appearance, are the residence of the immaterial 
spirits of the woods, which, vrith a Uttle poetic license, might be 
called the classic Dryades of Sumatra ! 

The country of the Lampoons, a people different in many, 
though no essential particulars, from the Rejangs, is situated on 
the southern extremity of the island. The Lampoons, of all 
the tribes on the island, most resemble the Chinese in appear- 
ance. Their complexion is fairer than that of the Rejangs, 
and their women are taller, more graceful, and more comely. 
In the reception of strangers, they are sumptuous and free in 
their manners. The Mahometan religion prevails, and in most 
villages mosques may be seen ; though they still entertain a super- 
stitious veneration for the crammats or burying-grounds of dieir 
ancestors, piously adorning and excluding tfiem, by enclosures, 
from the inclemency of the weather. 



i 



1 



18SS.] in.Ain> or anuxuL, ITS 



CHAPTER XI. 

Siimatr»— Tlie Kingdom of Menangcabow— Its former Power and Splendom^— 
Curious Proclamation of the Sultan — ^Arta and Manufactures of the People-^ 
Fire-arms and Gunpowder— ^The Battas; their Religion, Character, Manners, 
Customs — ^The Kingdom of Acheen — Description of the Inhabitants, Govern- 
ment, Religion, 6lc. — Severity of their Punishments — Cruel Sport of the Qoal- 
lah-Battooans — ^Dress and Character of the Achenese — ^Their Oratory — Revival 
of Trade alier the late War — ^Imbecility of the Government — ^The Rajah of 
Trumon — Islands on the Coast — Pulo Nyas Parents sell their Children for Slaves 
— ^The Pogies — ^Islands and Inhabitants of Egano— Winds and Currents — Sur- 
veys and Charts, by Captains Endicott and GilHs. 

The ancient and comparatively powerful empire of Menang- 
cabow, comprises an extensive tract in the centre of the Island of 
Sumatra, reaching several leagues to the north, and nearly one 
hundred miles to the south of the equator. It also commimicates,, 
by several rivers, with the seacoast on each side of the island* 
The seat, or capital of this monarchy, is called Paggarooyoong^ 
where the sultan or emperor holds his court, from whence his 
power and influence were formerly felt in almost every part of the 
island. Even the sultans and kings of Acheen, Indrapoor, Moco- 
Moco, Palembang, and Jambee, confessed his supremacy, and 
paid him an annual tribute ; while his name and power were ac- 
knowledged and respected by the neighbouring princes of the east» 

But the period of this greatness and splendour is lost in the 
mists of antiquity, and only known to us by tradition ; for when 
Sumatra was first visited by Europeans, as has been seen in 
preceding pages, the sultans of Acheen, Pasay, &c., were all 
independent of the monarch of Menangcabow; although some 
of them still paid him a complimentary tribute. For centuries 
past there has been a great deal of mystery thrown around the 
history and character of this inland imperial court by Mahometan 
priests, who affect to regard the sultan as the sovereign head of 
their faith, on the island ; although his present power is in fact but 
little more, if any, than that of a conmion rajcdi. 

The proclamations and imperial edicts which have cpoilaiated 



" Ocean into tempest tost, 

To w&fi a feather, or to drown a fly.** 

The reader, therefore, we feel assured, will not regret its intro- 
duction in this place. 

" Praised be Almighty God ! Sultan Gaggar Allum, the great 
and noble king, whose extensive power reacheth unto the limits 
of the wide ocean ; unto whom God grants whatever he desires, 
and over whom no evil spirit, nor even Satan himself, has any influ- 
ence; who is invested with an authority to punish evil-doers, 
and has the most tender heart in the support of the innocent ; has 
no malice in his mind, but preserveth the righteous with the 
greatest reverence, and nourisheth the poor and needy, feeding 
them daily from his own table. His authority reacheth over the 
whole universe, and his candour and goodness are known to all 
men. (Mention made of the three brothers.) The ambassador 
of God, and his prophet Mahomet ; the beloved of mankind ; and 
ruler of the island called Percho, At the time God made the 
heavens, the earth, the sun, the moon, and even before evil spirits 
were created, this Sultan Gaggar Allum had his residence in the 
clouds ; but when the world was habitable, God gave him a bird 
called Bocinety that had the gift of speech ; this he sent down on 



174 voTAOB OF THE POTOMAC {Febiuitfyf j 

firom this court are generally ridiculously pompous, as those of 
weak monarchs most generally are ; carrying terror to the igno- 
rant and imbecile, wUe 'tiiey are contemned by the inteUigent 
and the strong. The tides and epithets applied to this inland 
potentate, and adopted by himself^ are the most extravagant and 
absurd ; far surpassing time assumed by the emperors of Persia 
and Tartary, or even by the head of the Celestial Empire himself 
the ^'Father of ten thousand years." The reading worid is 
indebted to Alexander Dalrymple, Esq., for rescuing finom oblivion 
one of these curious productions, written by the Sultan of Me- 
nangcabow about a century since, and addressed to the Sultan of 
Moco-Moco. 

In 8tyle« this imperial document is far more rational than many 
similar effusions we have seen; and is, taking it altogether, a 
production so remarkable, especially when the magnitude of its 
object ft taken into view, that it forcibly reminds us of the well- 
known comparison of 



i 



1882.] ISLAND OF SUMATRA. 175 

earth to look out for a spot where he might establish an inher- 
itance, and the first place he alighted upon was the fertile island 
of Lancapore, situated between Palimbmiiutd Jambeej and from 
thence sprang the famous kingdom of M^Mngcabow, which will 
be renowned and mighty until the judgment day. 

'^ This Maha Rajah Doorja is blessed with a long life, and an 
uninterrupted course of prosperity, which he will maintain in the 
name, and through the grace of the holy prophet, to the end that 
God's diviiie will may be fulfilled upon earth. He is endowed with 
the highest abilities, and the most profound wisdom and circum- 
spection in the governing the many tributary kings and subjects. 
He is righteous and charitable, and preserveth the honour and 
glory of his ancestors. His justice and clemency are felt in 
distant regions, and his name will be revered until the last day. 
When he openeth his mouth he is full of goodness, and his words 
are as grateful as rose-water to the thirsty. His breath is like the 
soft wind of the heavens {janatecool ferdoors\ and his lips are 
the instruments of truth ; sending forth perfumes more delightful 
than benjamin or myrrh. His nostrils breath ambergris and 
musk ; and his countenance has the lustre of diamonds. He is 
dreadful in battle, and not to be conquered, his courage and valour 
being matchless. He, the Sultan Maha Rajah Doorja^ was 
crowned with a sacred crown from God ; and possesses the wood 
called kainat, in conjunction with the emperors of Rome and 
China. He is the sultan that keeps the cloth called sansista 
kallah, which weaves itself, and adds one thread yearly of fine 
pearls ; and when that cloth shall be finished, the world will be no 
more. He also possesses the true negataroonay and a kind of 
gold called jatta jattee, which is so heavy that a small lump will 
snap the datte wood. This is the sultan that enjoys the sword 
se mandang gerey^ which has one hundred and ninety wide 
notches in the field of battle, and is the weapon that killed the 
spirit of kattee moone ; the dagger, known by the name of hangin 
singa, is also his, and will, at his command, fight for itself, with 
which he has vanquished many nations. He also possesses the 
lance lambing lambooray the blade of which, called segar^ was 
given him by an inhabitant of the sea. He likewise has horses 
of infinite strength and courage ; and mountains of spoiftaneous 
fire. This is the sultan who keeps the flower ckampakMt 4utt it 



176 TOTAox OF THX POTOM4C. ^PMq^aiy, 

UiM^ and to be found in no other coontry but bis (being yellow 
ebewfaere). He possesses the shrub sera mangeree^ and the reed 
arver priendue^ to which birds of all countries OHne at the time 
of their death. He has also drums made of the tree silagooreey 
and another instrument of the like nature of the wood called 
po<doat-poolooty which send their sound through his whole domin- 
ions whenever they are beat. He has a bechar house, built of 
the hallowed wood jylaiong^ and each beam in it, though strong 
and large, is yet as light as bamboo. He also possesses a caipet 
made of grass, and a lump of gold in the shape of a man, given 
him by a god of the woods. 

*^ After this salutation, and the information I have given of my 
greatness and power, which I attribute to the good and holy 
pn^het Mahomet, I am to acquaint you with the commands of 
the sultan, whose presence bringeth death to aU who attempt to 
approach him without permission ; and also those of the Sultan 
of IndrapooTf who has four breasts. This friendly sheet of paper 
is brought from the two sultans above named, by their bird ongas^ 
unto their son Sultan Condom Sfiahj to acquaint him with their 
intention, under this great seal, which is, that they order their son, 
Sultan Condom Shah^ to obUge the English Company to settle 
in the district caUed Biangnoor, at a place called ' field of sheep,' 
that they may not have occasion to be ashamed at their frequent 
refusal of our goodness in permitting them to trade with us and with 
our subjects ; and that in case he cannot succeed in this affair, we 
hereby advise him that the ties of friendship subsisting between us 
and our son are broken ; and we direct that he send us an answer 
immediately, that we may know the result, and take our measures - 
accordingly — for all this island is our own." 

The Malays of Menangcabow are expert in the use of the 
Arabic characters ; but their writing is confined almost exclusively 
to transcribing portions of the Alcoran, and never extended to the 
'if.more important use of preserving records connected with the his- 
^Wy of their country. They have, however, acquired no Uttle 
' ^sdebrity in composing cabarsy or historical tales, which are gen- 
erally a mixture of truth with fiction, written in a style not unlike 
the romances of Arabia, highly poetical, and abounding with the 
marvellous. The recitation of these stories is a conmion amuse- 
ment in all parts of the island. 






I 



/ 



I* 






18826^*^ ISLAND OF SmtATRA. ITt 

t 

In the useful arts, they excel the natives of every other section 
of Sumatra ; displaying no inconsiderable skill and ingenuity in 
their handicrafts, particularly in filigreq?work of gold and silver. 
In the working of iron, steel, and other metals, many of these Ma- 
lays are firstrate artists; and it is from their factories and 
armories that the more warlike tribes of the north have been ac- 
customed to procure their fire-^arms and other martial weapons 
from time immemorial.- The arts of smelting iron, casting can- 
non, and manufacturing firelocks, have been practised by them 
from a very remote period ; as appears from the fact, that such 
weapons were adroitly used by the Sumatrans, in their earliest 
conflicts with the Portuguese. 

The delicate and difficult process of preparing steel firom iron^ 
has also been long familiar to them, as has been ahready intimated 
in another place. The quality of their swords and kris blades^ 
has never been equaUed in any other part of the world ; the steel 
of which they are composed appearing entirely difkfeni from 
that which we are accustomed to handle, and exhibitmg veins of 
different colours. The shape of the blade is peculiar, it being 
neither straight like a dagger or dirk, nor uniformly curved like a 
cutlass or sabre ; but it is waving^ like the attenuated flame of a 
torch, which gives an increased magnitude to the wounds they in- 
flict, and render them more difficult to heal. The hafts or handles 
of these weapons are curiously wrought and ornamented, generally 
embellished with the carved head and beak of a bird, with hiunail 
arms, like the Isis of the Egyptians. 

The art of making gunpowder with them is of course coeval 
with, if not anterior to, that of constructing engines for its use. It 
was no doubt brought from the continent by the first emigrants ; 
for fire-arms of some description were used in India, even before 
its invasion by Alexander the Great, as appears from the vinritings 
of Philostratus. This celebrated historian, in his hfe of ApoUonus 
Typhaneus, tells us that the cities of Oxydracia, in farther Indi 
could never have been taken by Alexander, " for they come 
out into the field (says he) to fight those who attack them^ 
these holy men, beloved by the gods, overthrow their enemies 
with lightnings and thunderbolts, shot from their walls." 

The mihtary forces of Menangcabow, in addition to their fire- 
arms, are provided with ranfows, or sharp-pointed spears of banH 




178 V0T4CIB OF THE POTOMAC. 0)eOtaiMV, 

boOb ^vUch they use on a hasty retreat by planting them obliquely 
in the pathways, and among the high grass, to annoy and retard 
their pursuers. 

These people are frequently engaged in hostilities to support 
the tottering throne of their chief; and a part of their forces are 
sometimes mounted on horseback, although the troops of this de- 
scription do not deserve the name of caTalry. The spoils, or 
plunder taken from the enemy is always divided among ^e com- 
mon soldiers, and this is the only pay they receive ; so that, pa- 
triotism apart, they are sure to annoy the enemy, at least in his 
property, as much as possible. But they have never been so 
much distinguished for bravery as the people of some other dis- 
tricts, particularly in the north; though the Dutch at Padang 
have often found them not only too restive for control, but in 
more than one instance, have found their only safety in the strength 
and height of their fortresses, and the means of enduring a si^. 

There is no part of the island where the Mahometan faith so 
exclusively prevails, as in the central principality of Menangca- 
bow ; which may, perhaps, be accounted for by the fact, that this 
region is the very Potosi of Sumatra, whether it be the Ophir of 
Solomon or not. It abounds with gold, ^* the white man's god ;** 
and so far as it can purchase sensual gratification, the Moslem's 
Allah. This was, doubtless, the grand inducement which led the 
prophet's missionaries to locate themselves in the golden region 
of Menangcabow. 

The natives, however, not only embraced a new religion, but it 
appears that an entire revolution took place in their language, 
manners, and customs, which could only have been effected by 
the Malays from the peninsula having settled among them. The 
natives of Menangcabow so mu(^h resemble, in personal appear- 
ance, the natives of the peninsula, that they are generally consid- 
ered, on the Island of Simiatra, as one and the same people. 
Indeed, the term Malay has long ceased, in most parts of the 
east, to signify strictly an inhabitant of Malaya ; but generally 
denotes such as have adopted the Malay language and religion ; 
and hence, as a general remark, in speaking of the inhabitants of 
Sumatra, we call them Malays, 

In proceeding from the Menangcabow country to the north, the 
next considerable tribe* or clan, is that of the Baitas; whoie 



1832.] ISLANB OF SUMATEii. 179 

district is bounded on the north by the kingdom of Acheen, and 
on the southwest by Passumman. This is a populous region ; 
and from the great Bay of Tappanooly, which penetrates deeply 
into the country, a considerable trade was once carried on, and 
monopohzed for a long time by the English, who took it &om the 
Achenese. 

In personal appearance, the Battas are smaller and fairer than 
the Malays, which may be owing to their distance from the sea^ 
Their dress is plsun, consisting of common cotton cloth of their 
own manufacture, died of a brown colour, or a deep blue. The 
young women are fond of ornaments, wearing ocdasionally not 
less than fifty tin rings in their ears at the same time. 

The food of the lower orders is principally maize and sweet- 
potatoes ; while the rajah, and people of rank and wealth, indulge 
in the greater luxury of rice« They are fond of horse flesh, and 
feed these animals with great care for the express purpose of food. 

In their domestic relations, there is no striking difference be-^ 
tween them and other tribes ali'eady noticed. Polygamy prevails ; 
and in their marriage contracts, the parents of the bride alwaytt 
receive a valuable consideration in buffaloes in exchange for theit 
daughter. The women labour in the fields, while the men, when 
not engaged in war, pass their time in idleness and gaming ; the 
latter being a vice which prevails among them without limit or 
restriction^ and is generally prosecuted with an ardour that termi- 
nates only in the ruin of one of the parties, who is perhaps sold 
as a slave to pay his debts of honour ! 

That trait in the character of the Battas which has given them 
most notoriety among the inhabitants of Sumatra, is the custom, 
attributed to them by all early writers, of eating human flesh. 
How far they may have been the real anthropophagi of the an- 
cients, is not known ; but all modern accounts agree, that when 
human flesh is now eaten among them, it is not from any un- 
natural, sensual appetite ; but the very natural moral appetite 
of barbarians for savage triumph and revenge ; to manifest the 
utter detestation in which they hold their enemies ; or their abhor- 
rence of the crimes for which their malefact(»rs may have suf' 
fered death. 

The country of the Battas is divided into numerous petty dis- 
IrictSy each of which is headed by a rajah, who extends his powei 

m2 




TOTj^ OF THC POTOMAC. [Fehniiiy^ 

ito the means and anna he can get in his possession. 
iefir^ extremely jealous of each other, and never unitef 
l^ffimmon dejfence against some external enemy. The 
xelations between the rajahs and their yassals, are quite 
feudal in their character. Their standard, in war, is a horse's 
head, and their arms such as are used in other parts of the island. 
They fortify their Tillages by ramparts of earth ; together with 
ditches, brushwood, and palisades of camj^iiie timber. 

They haye priests among them who perform certain ceremo- 
nies on the occasicm of burying the dead ; and their ideas of a 
Supreme Beinf and an hereafter, are more deariy manifested 
ibm among the Rejangs. The funeral obsequies crff a deceased 
lajah, or any man of superior consequence, are performed with 
much ceremony, and months are consumed in their consum- 
mation. The corpse is deposited in a coffin of the onoii-tree, 
which is covered with rosin, and fiN»n the end of which a bamboo 
tube extends into the ground, to cany off all disagreeable effluvia. 

When the coffin is brought out for burial, baskets of rice are 
placed by the women near the corpse. A buffalo or horse is then 
killed, and a feast takes place ; after which, the attending priest 
kills a fowl, and allows its blood to runupcm the coffm, as a charm 
to drive away evil spirits. When the ceremonies and several 
other rites have been all strictly observed, the coffin is buried in 
the earth, and the people retire peaceably to their homes. 

The Battas, perhaps more than any other people in the northern 
part of the island, have preserved their original character, man- 
imrs, habits, and customs, to the present day. 
,' 'The next and last nation of Sumatra which our prescribed 
limits will permit us to notice, is that of Acheen, at the northern 
extremity of the island ; a people to whom we have already so 
'. frequently alluded, that but little more remains to be said of them. 
It may here, however, be observed in brief, that Acheen is the only 
king«kim on the island which ever reached such a state of political 
importance as to become a subject of general history. But at 
the period when the forces of this government drove the Portu- 
guese from the island, the extent of its territory was far greater 
than it is at present. The king then claimed dominion as far 
downr:cai the western coast as Indrapoor, two degrees south of 
the equator; whereas his present juri8dicti|p^ only reaches le 



1838.1 ISLAND OP 8VMATKA. 181 

f . ' ■ .r ■* • 

Baroosy comprising about half that distance on thi^^rast i^wfaSli^ 
on the east it scarcely extends forty miles. ' ^** *^' 

The city of Acheen, the capital, is built on a hMfi Jidlich 
empties itself into the sea near the northwest point of tfb'idand, 
commonly called Acheen Head. This city, which was once a 
place of great trade, and firequented by yessels from all the coun^ 
tries of Europe, as well as from China, and all parts of India^ 
has greatly fallen off from its former importance, especially since 
the king removed his court to Tulisamaway. It is, however, a con- 
siderable town, containing a great number of public edifices, but 
without any pretensions to magnificence. Theje appear to be 
no regular streets, each house being separ&te, and surrounded 
with trees, conmiunicating^with each other by foot-pa^s. The 
houses are of one story, meanly built of bamboo, and thatched 
with cocoanut leaves, and raised some feet firom the ground on 
account of the overflowing of the river. 

The town is situated on an extensive plain, between two high 
ridges ; it is about five or six miles wide on the seacoast, and ex- 
tends a long distance, in a southeast direction, into the interior. 

The main river, which traverses the plain near its centre, is 
forty fathoms wide opposite the custom-house, which stands about 
three miles from its mouth ; and is. elevated about two feet above 
the surface of the water. It is very shallow at the bar, and in 
the dry monsoon, will not admit vessels of any burden, which 
must anchor without, in the road formed by the islands of the 
point. This is the common anchorage, with firom eight to fomf 



teen fathoms of water, the town bearing south-half-ea[;|m 
southeast. ri(!^'' 

This people differ extremely in their persons firom every other 
class on the island ; being taller, stouter, and of darker complexion ; 
supposed to be a mixture of Moors, Malays, and Battas. In their 
character and dispositions, they are also unlike their neighbour9|'^ 
being more active, industrious, and penetrating, and possefivi^gMt 
greater share of sagacity and general knowledge. They are aH 
Mahometans, and having a great number of mosques and priests, 
the rites and ceremonies of that faith are observed with mack 
greater strictness. Manufactures are here carried on to mors 
perfection than in any other part of Sumatra. This fiSiAfiric. will 
apply to taide, coipeice. ««i nayigatioB. 



Of- 




182 TOTA0S OF THB POTOMAC. [Febrotiy/ 

•:,« i. b«. .*»md b, «. ,.»»,«.. «»Ihr, .k-. ,. « 
wjjpi to daim as a highly valued friend, that the proas of the 
lliuiyi u<0f in form, constructioii, rigging, and e? en to the most 
minute particular as respects the huH^ precisely similar to the 
vessels of the Mediterranean which are represented in the paint- 
ings of Salvator Rosa, in the Pitti Palace at Florence. This 
artist, we beheve, flourished in the fifteenth century. 

The punishment of crimes has ever been severe and rigorous 
in this country ; and there is no commutation admitted, as we 
have seen to be the case among the natives fiirther south. Petty 
thefts are punis}]^ by torturing the culprit in various ways, such as 
maiming, amputating, and other kinds of mutilation^ Highway 
robbery and burglary, by drowning, and^ afterward suspending the 
body on a stake for a few days ; but if the robbery has been 
conunitted on a priest, the criminal is burnt alive ! The adulterer 
is cut to pieces by a mob of the injured husband's friends, and the 
mutilated corpse refused the rights of sepulture. 

AtQuallah-Battoo, one of the nominal dependances of Acheen, 
the same rigour is exercised towards offenders. A highly intellec- 
tual friend has related to us an instance of this severity and cold- 
blooded cruelty, which fell under his own observation, and was 
also witnessed by several other Americans present. A slave, who 
had been condemned to death for a trifling offence, was bound to 
a stake driven in the ground, as a mark for sportsmen to shoot at 
for several hours. The whole village was assembled to witness the 
sport ; laughing, shouting, joking, and betting, on the chances of 
every shot I The instinctive shrinking of the poor wretch, when 
a musket was levelled at him, and his agonizing supplications for 
mercy, were either unheeded or mocked and ridiculed ! He was 
eventually, after receiving sundry wounds, thrown into the sea, 
where his sufierings were terminated in a watery grave ? 

Such are the pastimes of the inhabitants of Quallah-Battoo ! 
the just punishment of whose outrage on our own flag, and the lives 
of our fellow-citizens, called forth the premature and misplaced j 

sympathies of philanthropists, who only erred in permitting their J 

fedings to outrun their knowledge of facts, being not fully ac- 
quainted with those peculiar circumstances which imperiously 
demanded the prompt interference of a protecting government. 

The government of Acheen is fun hereditary nuM^^rchy, and 



4« 

» 



./A 



IB88.) ISLAND OP SUMATaA. 183 



« • 



more or less absolute, in proportion to the talents of ihe rgigQJ9g 
prince. For the last half century, to go no furthe]^ b^cKi fte. 
sceptre of Acheen has been merely the symbol of sor^igBfJ^ 
without its potency ; sustained by a feeble arm, though with a 
title ancient and undisputed. The throne has been surrounded 
by chiefs, all of whom acknowledged the sovereign's authority, 
though none of them submitted to his control. Too feeble to 
reduce revolters, he has only been able to keep up a state of con- 
tinual alarm and warfare, bordering on that of actual rebellion. 

Prohibited by European interference from levying a duty on his 
own subjects, he was compelled by the mandate of strangers to 
forego the only means by which he could have preserved his do- 
minions from the anarchy and confusion which followed. In 
short, we must add, on the authority of Sir Thomas Raffles, that 
the last of the ancient dynasty of Acheen has been compelled to 
abdicate his throne in favour of the son of a Pinang merchant ! 

Of the personal appearance and dress of the Achenese, a few 
additional particulars may not be deemed inappropriate. We 
have already stated, that in size and stature they surpass the other 
inhabitants of Sumatra. Their heads are somewhat flat, or com- 
pressed, the face broad and open, with high cheek bones, flattei^^ 
nose, and large mouth ; though many of them have features similar 
in form and expression to Europeans. Their complexion may be 
called a dark copper-colour ; their chest is broad and full, their 
position erect, and their height generally is about five feet ten 
inches. When several are walking together, they always proceed 
in single file, taking precedence according to rank, age, or conse- 
quence. They generally walk well, quite erect, and are easy in 
their movements. They wear their hair very closely cut or shaved ; 
but instead of shaving their beards, they pluck it out, reserving 
their mustaches in the Turkish fashion. 

Their dress, also, difiers in many respects from that of other 
Sumatrans. The men have recently adopted die European jacket, 
with or without a collar, of blue or black broadcloth, which are 
the most common colours. This is frequently seen embroidered 
with fine gold thread, and a stripe of embroidery, about an inch 
wide round the border, neatly wrought with a needle. But that 
which we consider a genuine Achenese dress, is a jacket or 
frock, somewhat similar to a shirt without a collar. This is geiw 



184t TOTAOJB OF THB POTOMAC. {F^bnUUff 

mUj wbfy eixibroideted with gold thread, according .to the taste 
or fimcy of the wearer. Also, a pair of loose trowsors, which 
reach tp the calf of itm legr Another article of their wardrobe 
is a garment, the name of which we do not recollect, about a yard 
in width, long enough to pass once or twice round the waist, the 
lower edge hanging below the knees ; forcibly requoding (me (tf 
the Highland kilt A silken belt closely emtetoeli'tlie loins, om- 
oealing the upper edge of the nameless ganoent just mentioned, 
and also securing the trowsers^ A tuHiaiif which is usually a 
jAawl or hand]i;ei:chi^ i^mbnndered witK gold thread, completes 
]tfaedress> 

They also frequendy we«r anodier article of dress, formed of 
js piece of doth two ]rards and a half in width, sewed together at 
jtfae ends. This garment, which we have already alluded to in a 
pieTious chapter, as the sarong of the Sumatrans, has generally 
a graceful appearance, and is worn by the Achenese as an out* 
side garment, to protect them from the weather. This description 
refers to a dress of the best kind ; but there are few who do not 
irear such ait a holyday suit. Their common dreiBs is similar in 
^aahion, but made of less costly materials. Sometimes the jacket 
^ ^/mnitted, leaying the chest niJ&ed from the waist up, with only a^ 
small scuUcap ; the latter, howeyer, is always worn with a turban. 

An Achenese, in full dress, presents a martial and picturesque 
appearance, that would well become the stage ; and reminds one 
of the Highland uniform in the British army. We think that a 
regiment in such costume would present a brilliant spectacle. 
But let us not forget the Am, which is always worn, and is often 
of great value. Its sheath is sometimes of pure wrought gold, as 
is also the handle. Another indispensable appendage is a hand- 
kerchief of silk, embroidered with gold thread ; and among higher 
classes, with gold ornaments on the comers ; together with a gold 
chenam-box, tweezers, toothpick, &c. This is usually thrown 
over the shoulders. Their feet are never covered. 

In speaking of the beauty of the Achenese dress, we mean 
when it is cleans which is seldom the case, unless it be new. 
Cleanliness of apparel is not considered by these people as one 
of the requisites of a gentleman. They frequently wear a light- 
coloured cotton garment until it is worn out, without having it 
washed ! Foartpnaitely, however, for those who apprcAch them» 



1882.] ISLAND OF 8VMATEA. 189 

they perform their ablutions like good Mussulmen, wMhnig their 
bodies several times a day ; particularly when they repeat their 
{Mayers. 

The Achenese, in general, are graye and decorous in their 
deportment, considering it beneath the dignity of a man of con- 
sequence to laugh and talk much ; and they have often been heard 
to express the same idea. They are not, howe? er, unsocial in 
their manners ; but are in the habit of assembling in groups for 
conversation. Their mode of salutation is extremely courteous 
and ceremonious. When equals meet, they exchange handker- 
chiefs with a graceftil inclination of the body. The object of 
this is, that*they may prepare a serah for chewing, for which each 
has the materials in his handkerchief. They seldom commence 
conversing on these occasions, until the handkerchiefs are returned 
in the same graceful manner, the whole ceremony occupying two 
or three minutes. Their salutation generally on presenting the 
handkerchief is, ** Ali'Sah-lah-moOy aliriy loo^oomP^ expressing 
a sentiment analogous to '' Peace be with you," corresponding to 
our familiar ''How do you do?" But this short sentence is 
uttered with so much rapidity, that to an unpractised ear it sounid[8 
exactly like " Salam all cume r 

When an inferior meets his superior, the former very respect^ 
fidly takes the other's hand, bowing gracefully over it, until his 
forehead touches it. As he raises his head, the other carries the 
hand of his inferior towards his own forehead, and frequently 
gives him his handkerchief, without taking one in return. When 
an individual of very humble station approaches one of elevated 
rank, the former bends very low, as if he would throw himself at 
his feet, the other merely making a condescending gesture with 
the hand. We believe that a man of rank and station never 
neglects to return the salutation of another. 

When the Achenese assemble to deliberate or confer on any 
particular subject, they sit cross-legged in a circle. The speaker 
joins his open hands, and extends them, with a bow, to the indi- 
vidual he is about to address, who offers his attention by a similar 
action. If the whole company is to be addressed, the same cere- 
mony is observed to each. The orator then pitches his voice in 
a peculiar monotonous tone, evidently studied and acquired for 
the Bolfi purpose of public speaking, and this tone is seldooa 



V 

r 



186 TOTiox OF THE POTOMAC [Fefanury; 

changed until his speech is concluded. Another succeeds, ob- 
serving the same preliminary ceremonies. They appear to think 
that monotony of tone, combined with a rapid but unifcMrm flow 
of words, is the perfection of eloquence. Nearly all their public 
discourses commence with '^ Toohoo^ shaUah te Allah ;" that 
is, '' Sir, with the blessing of God," or, ** by Divine permission.'' 

The commerce of Acheen, which was once so flourishing, has 
dwindled away to almost nothing. The kingdom having been 
shaken and rent by internal factions and insurrections, too pow- 
erful to be suppressed by so weak a government, the interests of 
trade were almost totally neglected. 

But it is with the pepper trade, and those ports on the western 
coast of the island which are nominally appertaining to this 
sovereignty, that we, as Americans, have the most inunediate 
concern ; and on this subject, in addition to what we have already 
sud, a few facts and remarks may not be inapplicable. 

During the suspension or interruption of our conmierce, by 
the last war between the United States and Great Britain, the 
pepper-growers, having little demand for the article, greatly neg- 
lected its cultivation ; although it is known to be their principal, 
not to say only, article of export. The natural consequence was, 
that in the first pepper season subsequent to the restoration of 
peace, in eighteen hundred and fifteen, not more than two or 
diree vessels were enabled to procure cargoes. 

On the revival of our commerce at that period, the satisfaction 
which these people evinced and expressed on seeing their former 
profitable customers once more among them, was the subject of 
remark by every American on the coast. They looked upon the 
event as the precursor of more prosperous times ; and, with an 
alacrity and industry indicating a correct estimation of their pe- 
cuniary interest, they immediately began to extend their planta- 
tions, on a scale corresponding to the anticipated demand for this 
staple of the island. 

As the pepper vine, however, occupies three or four years in 
coming to maturity, there was no material increase in the quantity 
produced until the year eighteen hundred and eighteen, when 
we had from four to five thousand tons of shipping upon that 
coast, a great portion of which obtained cargoes. From this 
period to ei|^teen hundred and twenty-three, the high price which 



1<S82.] ISLAND O^ SUMATRA. 187 

this article maintained, both in Europe and India, held out so 
much encouragement to the pepper planters of Sumatra to in* 
crease its cultivation, that the quantity produced in that one year 
was from one hundred to one hundred and twenty thousand 
piculs of one himdred and thirty-seven and a half American 
poimds each ; employing, at the least calculation, six thousand 
tons of shipping, and a capital of one million two hundred 
thousand dollars ! Nearly the whole crop of that year, to- 
gether vrith the crop of several preceding years, were taken off 
in American vessels ! Since that period, this trade has been very 
fluctuating ; and the low price to which pepper has been reduced 
in America, has tended much to discourage the natives from in- 
creasing their crops. 

There are few other articles of trade to be procured on the 
pepper coast ; but in its neighbourhood, and immediately south 
of it, at the ports of Tappoose, Sinkel, and Barroos, gum-benzoin 
and crude camphire are produced in considerable quantities. The 
last named article is bought by the coasting craft at the rate of 
abou^twelve dollars per pound ! In all the pepper plantations, 
the soil appears to be perfectly congenial to the coffee-plant, 
which in many places seems to grow spontaneously. This, to- 
gether with the sugarcane, which grows here profusely, is, no 
doubt, indigenous to the island. 

The present monarch of Acheen appears to exercise little or 
no authority over those rajahs who are situated at any distance 
from the capital ; and nothing but his presence and actual force, 
which he has heretofore frequently employed, will compel them 
to pay him his lawful tribute. The probability is, that at this 
time, out of forty or fifty thousand dollars, his annual revenue 
from the exports of pepper, he is not able to collect more than 
five or six thousand. The rajahs, therefore, of the different forts, 
although they nominally acknowledge allegiance to the king, are 
virtually so many independent rulers, exercising individual au- 
thority, waging and carrying on war with each other, deceiving 
and cheating the king in every possible manner. They appear, 
however, to exercise very Uttle authority over their ovm subjects, 
and in many cases it seems merely nominal. The king is fre- 
quently at war with the rajahs ; and the latter, in their turn, are 
frequently al war with the different factions which beset their 



186 TOTAOB or m fotomac. [FebitMiy, 

l«fzitixy; while an almost uniyenal state of anaichj appears 
to prerail among them. 

We have said that the sovereignty of Acheen once extended to 
IndnfKXiry on the west coast of Sumatra, two degreev south of 
the equator. Of course, it included the seaport of Troum<Hi, in 
latitude 2* 4T north. This is, perhaps, the only place on the 
pepper coast, where any fsdth can be safely pllM^ed in a verbal or 
vnritten contract The former rajah, who died about the yent 
ei^^teen hundred and twenty-two, left his dominions to two sons ; 
one of whom was by his lawful wife, and the other by a concu- 
bine ftcm Pulo Nyas, who was, as a matter of course, first pur« 
chased as a slave. The son of the bond-woman govrais Trou- 
mon, and is highly respected, both by his ovm people, and such 
foreigners as visit the place for pepper. 

The other son governs a more southern district ; where he is 
almost universally despised by his own people, and is too well 
knovTU to be trusted by strangers. There vras, for a time, much 
difficulty, and some bloodshed, in consequence of the enmity of 
these brothers ; but the quarrel was finally adjusted to the satis- 
fiietion of all parties, and the reconciliation was duly ratified, 
according to the custom of the country, by a grand feast over the 
graves of their fathers. 

This incident occurred in eighteen hundred and twenty-four, 
when the amount of pepper collected by both governments was 
thirty-five thousand piculs. This is the only article of export to 
be procured at this place, and this they cultivate to the entire 
neglect of every thing else ; and notwithstanding it firequently 
happened that they were almost starving for rice, they never 
attended to its cultivation until very lately, although the soil is 
excellent for that purpose. And yet they have firequently been 
compelled to give a picul of pepper for a picul of rice. They 
even neglect to raise vegetables, and fowls are very scarce ; so 
much so, that it is very difiicult for a vessel to procure sufficient 
for the cabin. 

The rajah's house, bazaar, dec, are situated on the south side 
of the river, which, after extending some distance inland, becomes 
two separate rivers, one flovnngfirom the north, and the other firom 
the south, all the banks thickly covered with trees. But like 
most of the rivers on the west coast of Sumatra, it ip obstructed 



\ 



1838.] ISLAND OF BUMATRA. 189 

by a sand-bar, which is shifted by the heavy northwest gales that 
frequently occur on this coast during the stormy monsoon. The 
water of this river is not good, but vessels can be supplied vrith 
excellent water from wells in the village. The imports to this 
place are similar to those of other ports on the coast, consisting 
of opium, cloths, muskets, powder, and slaves, principally females, 
which are brought from Pulo Nyas, and sold for concubines. 

The Rajah of Troumon is the only one on the coast that 
carries on trade to any distance. He owns two or three brigs, 
which are navigated by Englishmen, or half-caste ; and perform 
voyages to Madras and other places. He sometimes declares 
war against the other rajahs, and has a great desire to enlarge his 
territories and increase his power. 

The Achenese appear to be very inimical to the Dutch, and 
manifest much jealousy of that nation ; probably from a fear that 
they may, at some future period, attempt to colonize among them. 
The Dutch trade to this coast is very limited ; and at least two thirds 
or three fourths of the whole is in our hands. The natives very 
readily distinguish between people of different nations ; and the 
conduct and deportment of Americans towards them is always a 
subject of high commendation ; and they are ever ready with eay 
pressioris of kindness, friendship, and good feeling for us. That 
they are prompted to this, in most instances, by motives of interest, 
there can be no doubt ; and this species of flattery has been fre- 
quently employed to allay any suspicions which we might enter- 
tain in our intercourse with them, to enable them the more readily 
to accompUsh any base or sinister purpose they may have in view. 
It is difScult to ascertain the real state of feeling of a people so 
wholly rude and treacherous. 

Such diseases as are incident to other portions of the east are 
also found tq prevail here ; such as bilious fever, ague and fever, 
diarrhoea, cholera, spotted and scaly leprosy, &c. These people 
are likewise subject to a peculiar cutaneous disease, much re- 
sembling the itch in appearance, attended with a constant irritation 
of the skin. This is said to be produced by unwholesome diet, 
such as salted fish in an almost putrid state, and other things 
equally repugnant to a delicate stomach. 

It is common to see among them the most loathsome-looking 
objects, covered with offensive ulcers and incurable sores Some 



ItO TOTAOB OF THB POTOMAC. [FdntUByi 

inifiirtiiiiate wretches are afflicted with the 0^Aa^ 
diaeasey in which the skin cornea off in flakes, and the flesh fiEdla 
from the bones. This disease being deemed highly infectious, the 
hapless sufferer is driven from society into the woods, wjiere food 
is conveyed to him by his relations, until death puts a ttrmination 
to his misery. They are almost totally ignorant of the science 
of medicine or surgery, and are frequently annoying in their 
solicitations for remedies and medical advice; so that visiters 
frequently-resort to quackery to get rid of their importunities. 

The face of the country, a short distance from the seacoast, is 
distinguished by a bold outline of prominent features, sometimes 
xiiing into lofty mountains, like most other parts of the western 
side of the island. The mountains abound with wild beasts of 
various species. Here are found the elephant, the black and 
striped tiger, rhinoceros, deer, antelope, wild-hog, &:c. Reptiles 
are numerous, and many of them venomous. Among those of 
the serpent kind is a snake which possesses the chameUon's 
feumlty of assuming the colour of any object with which it comes 
in contact. Though small in size, its bite is almost instant death. 
Alligators abound in the rivers, and the guana is also found here. 
The boa-constrictor is said to be a formidable tenant of the in- 
terior forests. 

Having thus given as full a description of the island and inhab-* 
itants of Sumatra as our limits will permit, we cannot, perhaps, 
make a more appropriate conclusion to this chapter than by briefly 
describing a number of smaller islands which line its western 
coast in a parallel chain, lying about sixty miles distant, and ex«> 
folding nearly the whole length of the parent island, for in that 
relation we consider them. These islets, for such they are, com-' 
pared with Sumatra, are at present very imperfectly known; 
except that several of them are from seventy to eighty miles in 
length, and that the inhabitants of those which have been visited 
differ materially from each other in appearance^ language, and 
character. On the charts, with few exceptions, the outlines o$ 
these islands are drawn wholly from imagination. As there 
has never been any actual survey, a few only of the points are 
known with much precision, although the passages i>etween them 
are much frequented by our vessels. 

The channels along the west coast of Sumatra are three in 



1882.] rSLAMD OF SUMATRA^ 191 

number. The outer one, west of all the islands, should always 
be adopted, if practicable, being far more safe and pleasant for 
vessels that do not wish to anchor. The middle passage within 
the chain of islands just mentioned, but outside a range of smaller 
ones, which are nearer the Sumatra shore, should never be selected 
from choice ; as vessels are liable to be driven about by currents, 
and tantalized with Ught and bafHing winds. There is no safe 
anchorage in this passage ; while in many places towards the 
main coast are dangerous shoals and reefs, from one to two and 
three fathoms under water. The inner channel, close along the 
shores of Sumatra, having in most places anchorage, is prefera- 
ble to the middle passage ; but from the numerous islands and 
reefs, either unknown or not marked on the charts (except that 
portion which is embraced in some recent surveys), it is both 
intricate and perplexing. 

It is not improbable that this chain of islands, which runs par- 
allel with the coast of Sumatra, once formed a part of that island ; 
they have been separated from it either by the attrition of the 
sea, or by some more sudden and violent effort of nature. This 
supposition derives strength from the fact, that in several places, 
particularly about Pally, detached pieces of land, in the form 
of islands, stand several hundred yards from the shore, and 
evidently once formed points of headland; their surface still 
remaining covered with trees, while their sides are bare, abrupt, 
and perpendicular. The northwest and southeast position of 
Sumatra, the similarity of soil, the regularity of the soundings 
within the range of the large islands, and the unfathomable depth 
of water without, add still further confirmation to the hypothesis. 

Hog Island, or Pulo Oo, the most northerly of the range, is 
moderately hilly, covered with trees, and may be seen twelve or 
fifteen leagues in clear weather. It is thinly inhabited by emi- 
grants from Acheen, who carry on a small trade in cocoanut oil 
and cocoanuts. As vessels have always given this island a wide 
birth, such dangers as may exist in its inmiediate vicinity are but 
little known. Between its southern extremity and two small - "-^ 
islands, several leagues to the south, there is a safe passage. ^ 

The Cocoas, about twenty miles to the westward of Hog Island, 
are in latitude 3* 1' north. 

Pulo Nyas is the largest of all the islands on this coast, and ib 



ig2 VoTAGX OF THB POTOMAC. [FebmBiyi 

• 

muTouixled by numerous smaller ones. It has a fine riTCTy good 
•nchoragey and refreshments of yarious descriptions, including 
excellent water. The inhabitants are mild and inoffensiTe, Tery 
different frx>m their neighbours on the main« or on any other island 
in the range. The inhabitants sell their daughters to the slave-' 
dealers, who convey them to Batavia, and other markets, where 
they are purchased for wives or slaves, as the case may be. 
The reason assigned for this unnatural conduct is, in some in- 
stances, that the inhabitants of Pulo Nyas have become so deeply 
involved in debt by gaming, that they cannot extricate themselves 
but by seUing their children, if they have any ; if not, by giving 
up themselves for slaves for a certain period* The consequence 
iBf that several hundred girls and boys are exported annually. 

Our informant was at Troumon, and present at the landing of 
one cargo of these unfortunate beings. They were principally 
females and boys of about sixteen years of age, who, after being 
counted, were marched up to the slave-mariLOt. These females, 
like all who come from this island, were beautifully formed, with 
complexions much lighter than those of the natives of Sumatra^ 
The captain of the vessel which brought them to Troumon was 
the son of a Scotchman, by a Nyas woman, while his own vrife 
was daughter to the King of Nyas. 

About ninety miles south of the equator is another of the islands^ 
of considerable size, known by the name of Pulo Fogy, with a 
companion of smaller dimensions on the south. The north Fogy 
is of very irregular shape, and thickly indented with bays and 
coves, particularly on its western side. The south Fogy is nanbw^ 
and tapering towards its southern extremity. Both of them are 
inhabited, but very little is known of their history or character, 
except that they are tattooed like the natives of most islands in 
the South Sea and Facific Ocean. 

The most southerly of these islands is Engano, situated in lati- 
tude 5" 2(y south. It is about eight leagues in extent, of a trian- 
gular form, and presents a level appearance when viewed at the 
distance of ten or twelve miles. It is about sixty miles from the 
coast, and has an iron-boimd shore, surrounded by rocks and break-' 
ers. The only account which we have ever seen of the inhabitants 
is contained in the sixty-eighth volume of Fhilosbphical Transact 
tions, for the year seventeen hundred and seventy-eight* The 



18Sft»}. ISLiLND OF SUMATRA. 198 

writer describes them as large, well made, naked savages ; very 
numerous, and extremely ill-disposed. The men in general are 
represented as about five feet eig^ or ten inches in height, and 
well-proportioned. The women are shorter, and not well shaped. 
Their complexion is of a deep red, with straight black hair, which 
the women very neatly roll up on the top of their heads. The 
men always go armed with lances of the cabbage-tree^ which is 
extremely h^. They have no iron tools that the writer could 
discover, yet they construct canoes, and erect houses of a circular 
form, resting on ten or twelve iron-wood piles about six feet lon^ 
planted in the groimd. These huitible habitations are floored witli 
rough planks, the roof rising immediately from the base in a 
conical form, like a straw beehive. They have neither cattle^ 
fowls, nor even rice ; but appear to subsist altogether on cocoa-^ 
nuts, sugarcane, sweet-potatoes, and fish* They speak a lan^' 
guage peculiarly their own; do not chew betele^nut, and hav0 
white teeth. 

The prevailing winds on this coast of Sumatra, north of the 
equator, are from northwest and southwest, with land breezei^ 
during the night. The regular monsoons are subject to many 
variations and interruptions, not only on account of the surround- 
ing islands, but by the very shape and location of Sumatra itself^ 
extending, as it does, across the equator in a ncirthwest and south*' 
east direction. * * 

The dry season generally begins in May, and continues imtii 
October. From Tune until late in September, while the southerly 
winds blow more steadily, the land-breezes are very light, and 
sometimes scarcely perceptible. At other times, brisk sea- 
breezes prevail from the southwest during the day, and land or 
variable winds during the night. Vessels, therefore, intending 
to touch upon the west coast during this season, should never fall 
in with the land north of their port of destination. Although the 
southeast or southerly monsoons mostly prevail on this coast south 
of the equator, yet northwesters are liable to blow for days at a 
time, particularly about the change of the moon. 

The northwest monsoon prevails on the same coast, particularly 
south of the equinoctial line, from October to April ; not unfre- 
quently attended with rain, thunder, and lightning. During thi«r 
northwest monsoon, unsealed land-winds, squally weather, and 

N 



194 VOYAGE OF TUB POTOMAC. [Febiuory, 

rain, prevail during the night. In March, the heavy rains abate, 
and the land and sea-breezes become more regular. 

It is to be observed, that in most parts of India north of the equa- 
tor, the northeast monsoons prevail when the sun is in the south- 
em hemisphere ; but on the Island of Sumatra they are changed 
to a northwest monsoon, by the direction of Ae land. From De- 
cember to April, and even May, the weather is often settled and 
pleasant in north latitude, with land and sea-breezes ; but at other 
times this wind blows strong, producing high seas, breaking in 
heavy surf along the coast, rendering it dangerous to lie in any of 
the open roadsteads. 

The ciurents on the w^st coast of Sumatra are greatly influ- 
enced by the winds, but seldom set to the north in either monsoon, 
except when the wind conlinues for some time to blow strongly 
from the south. When the northwesters prevail, the current sets 
to the southeast, particularly along that part of the coast which 
lies north of the equator ; while it frequently happens that another 
current in the open sea, westward of the neighbouring islands, is 
setting in an opposite direction. 

• During the months of October, November, and December, it is 
often difficult to sail north along the coast from the equator to 
Acheen Head, on account of baffling northwest winds and south- 
erly currents, which sometimes extend to a great distance from 
the island. On flie south of the equator, from June to October, 
while the southerly winds blow with considerable strength, a cur- 
rent is impelled to the northward, rendering it very difficult to 
work to the south. The tides do not rise more than two or 
three feet. 

While thus feeling our way among these islands and shoals, 
with the extensive coast of Sumatra in view, the reader may 
possibly expect something in the shape of " Sailing Directions," 
for the guide of other mariners. Such was, indeed, our original 
intention, and we had actually prepared an article for the purpose. 
This duty, however, has since been much more ably performed 
than it could have been with our present limited space and 
materials. 

For this important service, our country is indebted to Captains 
Charles M. Endicott and James D. Gillis, of Salem, Massachu- 
setts. The former, who was master of the Friendship when she 



1882.] ISLAND OF SUMATRA. 195 

was seized by the Malays at Quallah-Battoo, has been trading on 
this coast for more than fifteen years, during which period he has, 
profitably for his country, filled up all the tedious and vexatious 
delays incidental to a pepper voyage, by a laborious and careful 
survey of the coast, of which no chart was previously extant 
which could be reUed on. Captain Endicott has since published 
the result of his labours in a neat, well-executed chart, on e large 
scale, accompanied with sailing directions, comprising almost 
every item of information requisite for navigators iti these waters. 
This chart comprises all that portion of coast which is included 
between Sinkel, in 2* 18' and 4° 15' north. 

Actuated by a like commendable zeal for the commercial inter- 
ests of his native country. Captain Gillis has extended the surveys 
to latitude 5" north, and published an excellent chart, accompanied 
also with sailing directions. 

These are im])ortant acquisitions to our knowledge of this 
coast, and will increase the security of our merchants and mari- 
ners. When, in pursuance of the present wisely-adopted policy 
of our government, she shall send another armed vessel in the 
track of the Potomac, to visit this coast and look after our com- 
mercial interests there, it is hoped that she may be supplied with 
copies of these charts, on which reliance may be placed as far as 
they go ; and that she will not, as was the case with the Potomac, 
run up into the mountains by chart, before in fact she reaches the 
shore ! We gladly embrace this opportunity to acknowledge our 
obligations to both these gentlemen for much valuable information 
and many interesting facts. 

n2 



196 TOTAOB or THE poToiuc. [Febnuoy, 



CHAPTER XII. 

IBkAj Toyages to Smnatra — ^Portagnete ettablifbmeiito at Achem and Pfeai^—- Nsfal 
power of Acheen — Portuguese defeated — ^The Engliah well recehred at Acheeit— 
The Dutch suspected — ^The French neglected— RiTalry and hoetilities between the 
English and Dutch — English and French — ^The Enghsh at.Padang — Americans 
Tisit the east — Commercial enterprise of Salem — Cames*8 Toyage to Sumatra — 
Lots of his ressel in retunupg — Sails in the Rajah — ^His successful ▼03rage — Con- 
•equent curiosity and excitement — ^Unsuccessful attempt at conqyetition — Inter- 
esting extracts from the Records of the Salem East India Marine Society— -Ship 
Friendship, Williams — Fanny, Smith — John, Barton — ^Three Friends, Stewart — 
Her accident in the Strak of Bally — ^Active, Nicholas — RecoTery, Dana — and the 
Putnam — ^Tribute to the Commercial enterprise of Salem. 

The earliest account we have seen of pepper having been ex- 
ported from any part of the Island of Sumatra, was in 1509, in a 
few Portuguese vessels which touched at Pasay, a port of no 
little importance at that time, situated about twenty leagues from 
Acheen to the east. These vessels were on their way to China. 
The spirit of glory, of plunder, and of commerce, which burned 
BO ardently in the Portuguese at this period, received a new im- 
pulse, as new expectations were suddenly raised of the importance 
of this trade, and the resources of the island. As early as 1520, 
Diego Pacheco, an experienced commander, was despatched to 
the southwest coast to search for a certain island, of which ru- 
mour had spoken much of its treasures in gold. Having pro- 
ceeded as far as Paya, he was astonished to meet in that port 
many native vessels from other parts of the island, as well as 
several from India, which brought with them cotton manufactured 
goods, for the supply of the inhabitants. Near this port, he was 
so unf(»lunate as to lose one of his best vessels ; which circum- 
stance put an end to further search of the Isla (TOurOy which the 
natives represented to be one hundred leagues off, amid labyrinths 
of shoals and reefs, where none but small vessels or boats could 
steer with safety. 

On his return to Malacca, Pacheco passed through the Strait of 



18SS.] ISLAND OP SUMATRA. 197 

Sunda, and was thus the first European navigator to sail round 
the Island of Sumatra. But here, as elsewhere, they had scarcely 
set foot upon the island, before contentions and bloody feuds took 
place between them and the Sultans of Acheen and Pasay. It 
was at the latter place, in 1521, they made an attack on the town 
and ruling prince Geinal, with the ostensible object of setting up 
the legal heir to the throne ; but which was no^sooner accom- 
plished, than they required of this prince, as the reward of their 
magnanimous interference, the whole monopoly of the pepper 
trade within his territory, the expenses of the enterprise, and 
permission to erect forts and establish themselves on his soil. 
Protection it was : but it was that protection the tiger gives to the 
kid, when left alone upon the mountains ! 

Flushed with success, and urged on by cold, heartless, insatiatOi 
aU-grasping avarice, during the same year, an expedition under 
Brito, three hundred strong, and without the slightest provocation, 
was directed against Acheen. But here a different destiny awaited 
them. At the moment of landing, other vessels entered the port 
and proffered their assistance. This was not accepted, as it 
would increase the number among whom the gold must be divided* 
The Achenese waited their arrival, couched as the tiger of their 
own native mountains, and at a concerted signal, rushed upon them 
with all the tiger's fierceness. The slaughter was terrible, and 
scarcely a Portuguese escaped. 

In less than two years they were driven from their estabhsh- 
ment at Pasay, by the same Sultan Abraham, who, having tlirovm 
off his allegiance to the King of Pedeer, now reigned at Acheen. 
This warlike monarch for years not only kept the Portuguese in 
check, but often, with large armaments, carried on offensive oper- 
ations against their principal establishment on the coast of Malacca. 

In fifteen hundred and thirty-seven, he was succeeded by Alnadin, 
who followed in his footsteps, and waged perpetual war against their 
treacherous invaders, whom, in derision, they called " Caffresr The 
force called into existence by these people is astonishing ! Ex- 
pedition after expedition sailed from Acheen. At one time, no less 
than one hundred and fifty sail, with seven thousand men, crossed 
the channel for the destruction of their enemies. At this period 
arose the great warrior Lacsemanna, whose deeds are still re- 
membered among the M^ays. For forty years did he contend 



i 



i 



1 






198 TOT AGE OF THE POTOMAC [Felanaiy, 

against the Portuguese with various success, but always with a 
spirit above misfortune. 

In fifteen hundred and seventy-five, the King of Acheen, after 
several years preparations, covered the straits with his forces and 
armed vessels. These vessels were mostly small, though there 
were a few junks which carried six hundred men each. In this 
enterprise were nearly twenty thousand men. The Portuguese 
were made to tremble for their establishments on the opposite 
coast, where they were soon besieged! •The conflict was bloody 
and lasted long ; several Portuguese frigates were destroyed, and 
the garrisons were only saved by a timely reinforcement. 

In fifteen hundred and eighty-six, the kingdom of Acheen was 
in the greatest splendour ; its friendship was courted by all the 
Indies, and its ports frequented by the trading vessels from Mecca 
in the west, to Japan in the east. 

It was the close of the sixteenth century before the Hollanders 
made their appearance in the eastern world ; and not until the 
year sixteen hundred did they touch upon the coast of Sumatra. 
The English followed close upon their track, and only two years 
afterward visited the city of Acheen, with a respectable force 
under the command of Lancaster, who bore a letter from Queen 
Elizabeth to her " royal and puissant brother," the King of Acheen. 
In despite of the jealousy of the Portuguese and Spaniards (at that 
period indeed the same people), Lancaster was most " graciously" 
received ; was banqueted and entertained by " singing and dancing 
damsels," and, whaj, was more important, succeeded in making a 
very advantageous commercial treaty. The sultan extended great 
favour to the English ; allowed them to establish a factory ; 
showed them many indulgences ; and not far from this time, even 
condescended to send a message to King James, with the request 
that a lovely English woman might be sent out to him for a wife ; 
holding out at the same time, as an inducement to the fair one 
who should become the object of his royal affections and star- 
ascendant of his harem, that her first son should be made his 
heir, and succeed him to the throne of all the Sumatras ! Neither 
history nor any oral tradition that has come to our knowledge in- 
forms us hew this intended honour was received by our fair ances- 
tors ! but we slirewdly suspect that such an overture from an 
oriental sovereign could not fail to inspire them with glow- 



1888;} ISLAND or sumatka. 199 

ing ambition, at the thoughts of crowns and diadems, and of be- 
coming mothers to a long race of pepper monarchs and spicy 
kings. How such a^proposition would be received at the present 
day by our own republican fair ones ; how far it might inspire 
them with the desire to depart from the simplicity of their grand- 
motheis,we would not for the world even hazard an opinion ! 

The Dutch were also viewed with favour by this prince, who 
appears to have been more mild and humane than some of his 
immediate prq^ecessors. This harmony, however, was not des- 
tined to last long. News of the cruelty and oppression of the 
Dutch over their neighbours the Javanese was now daily reaching 
him, and could not but produce in his mind sentiments unfavour- 
able to their characters, as well as create well-grounded fears, 
that the time might not be far distant when he and his people 
might become victims to the same policy ; and these well-grounded 
apprehensions on his part led to the interruption of that harmony, 
which, for several years, had so happily existed. 

In sixteen hundred and twenty-one, the French sent out a fleet 
with magnificent presents to thie Sultan of Acheen, the importance 
of whose trade was greatly exaggerated, and which, in fact, never 
had been conunensurate with his military power and resources. 
They were by no means successful in their negotiations, and re- 
ceived from the king but little encouragement. 

In sixteen hundred and forty-one, a new sultan had ascended 
the tlirone, with whom the Dutch concerted a joint expedition 
against the Portuguese establishments on the coast of Malacca. 
The Achenese entered with spirit into this campaign, as it was a 
conquest their ancestors had long, though unsuccessfully, attempt^ 
to achieve by their own strength. The Portuguese could not 
withstand the combined forces of the allies, and were, after a short 
though desperate struggle, compelled to yield to the fortunes of 
war. It was the long contest with this power that had raised the 
Achenese monarchy to so great a height, and with the overthrow 
of this enemy, its power and splendour began rapidly to decline. 

In sixteen hundred and eighty-four, the English turned their 
attention to Sumatra again, having recently lost their possessions 
at Bantam, after having had a foothold there for more than eighty 
years. A deputation was sent to Acheen, to effect such arrange- 
ments as would continue to secure them in a share of the pepper 



fiOO YOTAOB OF TSgS POTOMAC. [FefanMTfy 

tiade. Here they met certain rajahs from Priaman and other ports 
on the west coast, who had yisited the seat of government to 
seek protection from the Dutch, who had began to make encroach- 
ments in that quarter. These rajahs apphed to the English for 
protection, and proposed to give them not only the profits of an 
exclusive trade, but to allow them soil, and the privilege of estab- 
lishing forts. So eager were the rajahs to effect this arrangement, 
that they embarked for Madras, formally to effect this object 
with the governor. An expedition was immediately put in prep- 
aration, intended to sail for the country of Priaman ; but which 
was diverted for a time from this object, by a similar request 
having, on the eve of departure, been received from the rajahs of 
Bencoolen ; to which place the English at once made sail, in- 
tending afterward to visit Priaman, and complete their establish- 
ments in that quarter. The Dutch, in the meantime, had pene« 
trated the designs of the English, and htfitened to anticipate 
them in their estabUshments in Priaman. The contest between 
the EngUsh and Dutch was severe ; the latter continuing to annoy 
their rivals by every means in their power ; often joining with the 
natives, jand compelling the Enghsh to leave some of their less 
considerable estabhshments — ^but not Bencoolen, which improved 
rapidly, and by sixteen hundred smd eighty'^nine had acquired 
much strength and respectability, and numbered among its inhabi- 
tants many industrious and useful Chinese colonists. By sixteen 
hundred and ninety'K)ne, the Dutch power was greatly reduced, 
and that of the EngUsh and their trade proportionably increased. 
The settlement of Natal was established in seventeen hundred 
Ad fifty-two, and that of Tappanooly shortly aften^'ard, which 
involved the English again in fresh disputes with the Dutch, who 
laid claim to the whole of the country where these forts were 
situated. 

In seventeen hundred and sixty, the French, under Count 
d'Estaigne, destroyed all the EngUsh settlements on the coast of 
Sumatra, but which were aU re-established again under the treaty 
of Paris in seventeen hundred and sixty-three. In seventeen 
hundred and eighty-one, the British in their turn to<^ possession 
of Padang and other Dutch factories, in consequence of war with 
that nation ; and again in seventeen hundred and ninety-four. 

We have now arrived at that period in the conmiercial history 



1838.] ISLAND OF.. SUMATRA. SOI 

of Sumatra, when it becomes necessary to introduce upon the 
theatre of eastern competition another actor ; a people whose 
very existence in that part of the world was scarcely known. On 
the thirtieth of August, seventeen hundred and eighty-four, the 
stripes and stars of our beloved republic, which Heaven in 
its mercy long preserve, the " home of the free," were first un- 
folded in Cantoit. An incident of so much importance in our 
history shall not pass without due notice, in its proper place. 

The first American vessel that ever procured pepper from the 
Island of Sumatra, was a schooner, Jonathan Games master. 
She had been fitted out from Salem for the East Indies, in the 
year seventeen hundred and ninety-three. While in Bencoolen, 
the captain learned something of Uie pepper trade, at that period 
confined principally on the west coast to the single port of Padang. 
To this point he shaped his course, without any other knowledge 
or directions than such as he had by accident been enabled to pro- 
cure from a pilot, whose services he secured to accompany him. 
On arriving at Padang, he found that but little pepper was raised 
there, but was brought in small quantities by the natives, in their 
proliSy from other ports further to the north. These ports he 
did not visit at this time, but after some considerable delay, was 
successful in procuring a cargo, when he sailed for the United 
States ; but while touching at some of the West India islands, 
was so imfortunate as to lose his vessel on a reef, and with her 
the whole of his cargo. On arriving in Salem, he made his 
owners acquainted with the new channel of trade he had opened. 
The whole matter, however, was kept a profound secret. A vessel 
of one hundred and fifty tons, called the Rajah, was built by Mr. 
Peale, and the captain in seventeen hundred and ninety-five set 
out for Sumatra ; and^ this was the first vessel that ever sailed di- 
rect from this country to that island, for the purpose of procuring 
pepper. After arriving at Padang, he procured such fiirther in- 
formation of the coast as induced him to make sail for other ports 
further to the north. Without chart or guide of any kind, he made 
his way amid niunerous coral reefs, of which navigators have so 
much to dread even at the present day, as far as the port of An- 
alabo'o, touching also at Soo-soo, where he succeeded in procuring 
a large portion of his cargo. 

On ^ the arrival of Captain Games at Salem, which happened 



S02 TOY AGS OF THB POTOMAC. (Tebruary, 

without accident on his passage, great excitement and curiosity 
were produced, to learn in what part of the eastern world he had 
been so successful in loading his vessel in so short a time with 
pepper. 

There had never been so much of this article brought in one 
vessel to the United States ; and we have heard it amusingly re- 
lated, that there were not wanting, at that time, very intelligent 
persons, who went into minute calculations to show that the amount 
of stock on hand would be found greatly beyond the immediate 
demand. It is worthy of remark, also, that at this period a 
vessel of one hundred and fifty tons was deemed quite large 
enough to bring the whole crop raised on the west coast of Su- 
matra ! The cost of that cargo was about eighteen thousand 
dollars, and sold at a profit of seven hundred per cent. At this 
early period of our commercial history, while our merchants, with 
little else than true enterprise for capital, were extending their 
trade to remote parts of the world, and opening new channels 
through which so much individual and national prosperity was to 
flow into our country in after years, it is easy to imagine the 
new feelings of competition called into existence by so extraordi- 
nary a voyage as that of the Rajah, which had now just relumed 
with so much profit to her owners. But still the matter was a 
secret. No one had been able to penetrate the mystery ; while 
evident preparations for another voyage showed the owners had 
confidence that the new stream of their prosperity might still flow 
on. It was known, however, that Captain Carnes had received 
his first knowledge of the trade while at the port of Bencoolen. 
What he had accomplished, others felt themselves able to do ; so 
that in a very short time vessels were fitted out from Salem and 
Beverly, directed to Bencoolen, with instructions to find out, if 
possible, the directions which had been given to Captain Games. 
In this they were not successful. The jealousy of the European 
colonists became awakened, though little did they dream of the ^ 

yoimg Hercules who had just set foot upon their shore, whose .• 

youthful vigour was so soon to gain an entire and undisputed / it 

ascendency in the pepper trade of that coast ! Of the west coast, *'^* 

north of Padang, nothing was known ; no charts, no sailing direc- 
tions were to be found ; while the most unfavourable accounts 
of the danger of the navigation were pointed out, and were exag- 






t 



1632.] rsLANB oy Sumatra. 209 

gerated by the English, but more particularly by the Dutch, in 
order to deter the new adventurers. These vessels, therefore, 
failing to procure the requisite information, and being imable to 
get on the track of their more successful pioneer, proceeded ob, 
and made up their voyages in some of the other ports of India. 

We have been greatly interested in looking over the record of 
our mercantile enterprise to the east, about this period, as pre- 
served in the port-folios of the Salem East India Marine Society. 
The time may come when these documents will be referred to, 
and written up, as interesting iteiks belonging to the history of 
our country. In turning over the pages of this record we have 
made a few hasty abstracts, which may properly be introduced in 
this place, for the purpose of showing how rapidly our trade had 
extended at the period of which we are speaking. 

The secret voyages to Sumatra did not continue long. By the 
first of the pfesent century the mystery was penetrated, and the 
whole ground occupied by enlightened competition. 

The ship Friendship, J. Williams master, sailed from Salem 
for Batavia, August first, seventeen hundred and ninety-seven ; 
made St. Paul's Island, and reached the coast of Sumatra, passing 
near Egano Island. When in latitude 5" 25' south. Little Fortune 
Island bore southeast, and Mount Pangong, on the Suniatra 
shore, northeast, distant eight leagues. Left Batavia for the 
United States, March fourth, seventeen hundred and ninety-eight. 
This was among the first American vessels at Batavia. While 
passing through the straits, made observations to ascertain the 
variation of the needle; found considerable difference between 
the morning and evening observations ; discrepances which have 
been noticed by many navigators, particularly, if we remember 
right, by Captain Cook, in one of his voyages. While in the Strait 
of Sunda, Little Cambuys bearing northwest-by-west, the leads- 
man in the chain, and heaving the line ; he had just cried nine 
fathoms ; but while drawing in the line the ship struck, and re- 
mained for a minute on a coral patch of only two fathoms water. 
These dangers are now noted on the charts, but they go to show 
. the dangerous navigation in coral seas. 

On the fourteenth of January, eighteen hundred and two, the 
ship Fanny, E. Smith master, sailed from Boston for New-Hol- 
land, Batavia, Tranguebar, Hindostan ; passed through Brass's 



<^ 



£04 voTAOv OF THB POTOMAC. [Febnuuyt 

Straits, discovered rocks not laid down on any chart then in use ; 
passed through the Straits of Sunda, touched at Batavia, and 
from thence to Tranguebar ; and finally making Hog Island, coast 
of Sumatra, and touching at the Isle of France, returned in safety 
and with profit to the United States. 

Ship John, J. Barton master, sailed from the United States for 
the east in eighteen hundred and two ; made the coast of Su- 
matra, and came to anchor at South Tally ninth of May, eighteen 
hundred and three. From thence sailed to Acheen, and afterward 
to Manilla, passing near Fuloway, the largest of the Acheen 
islands ; high and uneven ; may be seen twelve leagues ; and along 
the south side of it, in some parts, there is said to be soundings 
near the shore. Passed Diamond Point, forming the eastern ex- 
tremity of the coast of Pedir, or, as old authors spell it, Pedeer. 
When sailing from Acheen, along this part of die coast, kept 
near it, where in most parts anchorage may be found if necessary. 
The golden mountain was visible, rising like a cone seven thou- 
sand feet above the level of the sea ; and may be seen ninety 
miles from deck in a clear day, forming a soft outline above the 
horizon. In fine weather, this beautiful mountain, rising only 
about eight leagues from Acheen in the interior, forms a good 
mark for pointing out a ship's situation, when wishing to pass 
through Malacca Strait, particularly when the distance is so great 
that the land near King's Point cannot be seen. Pulo Verella 
was the next island made ; is not more than six leagues from the 
Sumatra shore, high, and may be seen eight or ten leagues dis- 
tant. At the south end water may be procured, and at the south- 
east end anchorage in twelve or eighteen fathoms, about one mile 
from shore. Boats landing here are cautioned, even at the present 
day, to look out for the Battoo-bara people from the adjacent 
coast, who are often lurking about these places in Xheii proas^ and 
never fail to attack boats when within their power. Having 
passed along the Sumatra coast from Diamond Point, a vessel 
may go on either side of Pulo Verella ; if on the outside, give a 
birth to the reef ; if you pass inside, steer towards, and pass to 1 

the east of the Brothers, two islands lying five or six miles firom 
each other. The channel between these islands and the coast is 
not well known ; besides, the outside channel is more frequented. 

In 1 • 28' north, 1 03* J (X east, made Pulo Pisang, not high, covered 



1888.] IBLAKB oy SUMATRA. 20S 

with wood, and may be seen eight leagues. Both to the east and 
west side^ of Pisang, are small islets. From Mount Formosa to 
this island, it is low and woody, except a small mount near the sea, 
half way from Formosa towards Pisang. It has long been ob- 
senred, as a general rule, that on the edges of the shore-banks 
throughout the straits, the depths decrease suddenly ; and in like 
manner on the edges of those in the offing. 

Having sailed near to, or within sight of, Carimou, Red Island, 
Pedra Branca, Pulo Tingy, Pulo Timor, Pulo Sapata, and Goat 
Island, the ship John came to anchor at Canite, west side of the 
Island of Luconia. — Sailed from Manilla, passed Corrigidor, cor- 
rected the longitude of High Island ; and after touching at nu- 
merous islands, among the rest Celebes, where the Dutch have 
an establishment, next at the Isle of France,* sailed from thence, 
without accident, to the United States. 

On the eighteenth of January, eighteen hundred and three, 
the ship Fame, Briggs master, sailed from 'Salem to Cochin 
China, Manilla, and back. The details of this voyage show 
much perseverance on the .part of the captain. The natives do 
not appear to have been unfriendly, and the vice-king showed no 

• 

* This is an island in the Indian Ocean, four hundred miles east of Madagascar^ 
It was discoTcred by the Portuguese ; but the first who settled here were the Dutch, 
in 1698. They called it Mauritius, in honour of Prince Maurice, their Stadtholder ; 
but on their acquisition of the Cape of Good Hope, they deserted it ; and it con^ 
tinned unsettled till the French landed here in 1720, and gave it the name of one of 
the finest provinces in France. It is one hundred and fifty miles in circumference 
The climate is healthy, but the soil not very fertile. There are many mountain% 
some of which are so high that their tops are covered with snow ; they produce the 
best ebony in the world. The valleys are well watered with rivers, and are made 
very productive by cultivation, of which sugar is the principal object. The town and 
harbour, called Port Louis, are strongly fortified ; but in the hmricane months, the 
harbour cannot afford shelter for more than eight vessels. Here are large store- 
houses, and every thing necessary for the equipment of fleets. This island wa» 
taken by the British in 1801, and confirmed to them by the treaty oT Paris, in 1814. 
In 1819, the pestilential cholera was introduced into this island from India, and car- 
ried off seven thousand of tiie inhabitants. According to an account presented by 
the colonial department to the British parliament in the session of 1825, the island 
was divided into ei^t districts, containing a population of 87,603, in the proportion 
of 65,709 slaves, 13,475 free blacks, and 10,359 whites, exclusive of 1310 troops. 
Port Louis, on the northwest coast of the island^ is in latitude 20^ 10* north, and 
67® 29^ of east longitude.-^^&roMbis'* Vmttrsd Gatettar. 



806 70TAOB OF THE POTOMAC. FFebnuury, 

repugnance to trade, and gave, without much apparent suspiciqo, 
license for the captain to enter and trade in other ports. 

The ship Three Friends^ Stewart master, made a voyage from 
Salem to Batavia in the year eighteen hundred and one. Bally 
Strait, situated between an island of the same name and the east 
end of Java, is about six l.eagues wide. On the sixteenth of Jan- 
uary, eighteen hundred and two, the Three Friends was accent 
panied by a ship called the Margaret. The morning began with 
fresh contrary winds, while beating into the Strait of Bally. 
Having got part way in, the wind fell oflf, and the current being 
ahead, brought to an anchor in twenty fathoms sandy bottom, the 
Java shore distant half a mile. At half past six in the evening, 
the current having shifted, weighed, and drove with the stream — 
hght airs from the Java coast — and at dark lost sight of the Mar- 
garet. The wind being from the western quarter, carried quite 
over to the Bally side ; the current carrying the vessel around a 
point, and shortly afterward, within a cable's length of the shore, 
drove along for a few minutes, found soundings in thirty fathoms, 
let go the sheet-anchor, and brought her up at about one hundred 
and fifty feet from the rocks, where she rode a few minutes. At 
nine P. M., light air came off the land ; a boat being ahead, the 
cable was cut, time not permitting to heave it up ; in a moment 
the wind died away, and the next, came right on shore, all sail 
being set, she took aback and struck ! The after-guns were im- 
mediately thrown overboard, water started, and the decks* cleared 
of wood ; in short, every thing that could be done to lighten her, 
but all to no effect. The captain and officers supposing little on 
their part could be done, the current running five knots per hour, 
the wind, what there was, directly on shore, four men sick — 
minute-guns were fired, and fortunately answered by the Margaret, 
whose superiority in sailing had enabled her to gain safe anchorage 
in Palembang Bay on the Java shore : and answering minute- 
guns were now heard from the Dutch forts at Palembang. The 
situation of the captain and his crew was now deplorable. Driven 
on shore, on the savage and inhuman coast of Bally, the vessel 
on her beam-ends, four men sick, not able to work a single re- 
maining gun, the idea of losing the ship and cargo, and of being 
themselves massacred by the savages, presented a picture gloom}^ 
enough : when they were somewhat reUeved by the appearance^ 



1832.] ISLAND OP SUMATRA. 207 

of Captain Derby, of the Margaret, in a boat with six men, who 
immediately set off to the Dutch settlement to procure pr<ma to 
lighten the vessel of her cargo. At three A. M., saw proas ap- 
proaching fast and full of men, whom the captain concluded were 
savages ; and deeming it impossible in his weak state to defend his 
vessel against a force apparently so unequal, ordered all the arms 
and powder down into the forecastle, where he felt he could de- 
fend himself to the last, that point being accessible in one place 
only^ He naturally supposed that they would not fire the vessel, 
on account of the plimder she contained ; and if they did, it was 
only a choice of evils to remain on board and share her fate. 
Every thing being in this train, and the proas within hail, he 
ordered one alongside ; when, greatly to his relief, he found they 
were Dutch soldiers, sent by the governor of the Dutch forts to 
defend him from the savages. The officer came on board, and 
ordered all the soldiers to pitch their tents on the shore opposite 
to the vessel. On the following morning Captain Derby returned, 
when the vessel was lightened by taking out two proas loads of 
coffee. At 8 A. M., an anchor having been carried out, and the tide 
serving, they succeeded in heaving her off; but there being no wind, 
they lay at anchor until the next day ; when, getting the light 
spars on board, got under way, and in the evening came safe to 
anchor alongside the Margaret. On the eighteenth, the two cap- 
tains went on shore to wait on the governor, and thank him for 
the great assistance he had rendered them. They found his car- 
riage in waiting to carry them to his residence in the fort, having a 
drawbridge, over which they had to pass. On being presented 
to the governor, the captains were very much pleased with his 
manners, and astonished with his open and generous behaviour. 
The pleasure he evinced on seeing them safe, and the hospitality 
with which he treated them, did great credit to the goodness of 
his heart. During the whole of their stay there, they had the 
satisfaction to see his friendship increase towards them, and he 
even loaded them with presents on the day of their departure. 

Bally Strait, as has been observed, is between the south^ASt 

end of Java on the west, and Bally on the east. The land on the 

island is more elevated than on the east end of Java, which is 

l^ven, sloping down at each end, resembling, when seen at the 

Miistance of six or seven leagues, the Island of Banditti. The 



flOe YOTAGS OP THS POTOMAC. [TdbnUffff 

m 

MUtherly winds generally prerail near the south coa«t of the 
islands which form this strait, iirom February to September ; while 
ficom November to March, strong westerly winds are frequent, 
producing a westerly current, setting along the coast of Java and 
the islands to the east. On most parts of this coast are sound* 
ings near shore, and good anchorage in several bays, frequented 
but little, however, by strangers. Vessels should keep mid* 
channel, with boats ahead in light winds, as the passage is dan- 
gerous, tides strong, with numerous eddies, which are liable to 
horse a ship on the rocky shore of Java. On Bally there is a 
burning mountain. 

On the ninth of May eighteen hundred and one, the ship 
Active, G. Nichols master, arrived on the coast of Sumatra, 
making, as is now usual among ships. Hog Island, as the first 
point. In coasting along the western side, tliere appeared to be 
a great many breakers, some of which layat a considerable dis- 
tance, particularly from the western extreme; where, by the 
charts, there is a shoal eight or ten miles ofl^ though they did not 
appear to the captain to be more than four or five miles from the 
shore. He sailed along from two and a half to three leagues 
from the coast, but did not see breakers which appeared to extend 
more than a mile from shore. 

He passed between this island and the Cocoas, which he found 
to be very erroneously laid down on the charts, which place 
them northeast six or seven leagues from the northern extremity 
of Hog Island ; instead of which, they lay nearly west from said 
extremity at the distance of about six leagues. 

His destination was the Port of Muckie, which not being 
laid down on any chart, or noticed in any sailing directions, and 
the accounts of persons differing no less than twelve miles in the 
latitude assigned to it, he had to proceed with the utmost caution. 
The charts he had were English, of the latest date at that time ; 
but still he found no reliance could be placed on them. The 
country around Muckie was very inaccurately delineated, and the 
winds and weather still more imperfectly described in the East 
India Directory. 

On the fourteenth of May, eighteen hundred and thirty-two, 
after many days of anxiety and fatigue, he came to anchor, with** 
out accident, at Muckie. During the whole of the time while 



1832.] ISLAND OP SUMATRA. 209 

making the coast and harbour, light winds and rain occasionally 
prevailed, with the set of the current to the north, but not strong. 
Muckie he placed in 3* 24' north, but it has since been ascer- 
tained, by repeated observations, to lie in 3* 28'. The harbour is 
small ; only three miles deep, and one fourth of a mile wide at 
the entrance. The anchorage is in from seventeen and a half to 
eighteen fathoms. Six or eight vessels might lie here in perfect 
safety. The shore is coral, except a small place where the 
pepper is taken o£f ; this is sand, on which the surf breaks, but 
not so as to prevent getting off cargoes ; indeed, it is said there 
is not a better place to load on the whole coast While in this 
bay, from the fourteenth of May to the sixth of June, the land 
and sea-breezes were regular ; the weather was generally pleasant, 
though once in two or three days there was commonly a squall 
firom the northward and westward, which lasted about an hour, 
and sometimes blew quite fresh. 

Pepper, tiie only article of export, amounted at this time to 
about ten tfafusand pidds annually, though this year there was 
nearly doubte that quantity raised and exported. A portion c^ 
this, however, is brought from other small ports in the neighbour*' 
hood ; such as Laboan Hadjee, only a few ifliles to the northi 
where there is also good anchorage. 

Respecting the natives, the captain says he always found them 
friendly, though he acknowledges that it was dangerous to irritate 
them, or to permit many of them to come on board at the same 
time. He says they always carried their knives with them ; that 
there had been instances of their taking vessels ; and, frt>m what 
he saw, he imagined they were always willing to take advantage 
of a favourable opportunity to do a Uke act upon an unguarded 
vessel; still there appeared not to be the least danger to go on 
shore among them, and not to irritate them ; a line of conduct 
which he appears constantly to inculcate. He describes them as 
lazy, a point in their character about which there has never been 
room for more than one opinion. Respecting their government, 
he knew but little. In that part of the country there appeared to 
be but two men in authority among them, who made the bargains 
and controlled the trade. He met with several who could speak a 
little of the English language, and that of the Malay did not appear 
to him difficult to acquire. The inhabitants were estimated at 



SIO TOTAGE OF THB POTOMAC. [Febroaiyy 

three thousand of all descriptions of natives. The Malajrs and 
Achenese, though called by the same general name Malay, are 
not in fact of the same origin. 

The ship Recovery, LaAer Dana master, sailed from Salem 
lor the Island of Sumatra cm the fifteenth of June, eighteen hun- 
dred and two, and came to anchor in Muckie on the nineteenth of 
May following. Dana was an intelligent master, and noted with 
a practical eye all he saw. He describes Lamboan Hadjee Bay 
as being formed by Pomt Mangin on the north, and Jampatnan on 
the south, com{wehending within it Jampatnan, Muckie, Pulo 
Matt, Lamboan Hadjee Point, Pulo Cann, and Mangin, with sonie 
other places of less note. Muckie at that time was the residence 
of a powerful rajah, who owned a number of large proas. Lam- 
boan Hadjee was much larger than Muckie, but its rajah was by 
no- means so powerful or rich. At the southern part of the dis- 
trict is Pulo Matt, Pulo Cann at the ocgrtlierB, and Lamboan 
Hadjee in the centre, forming in aU the district of tUe same name. 

Proas and small craft conunonly he vfithin a. shoal bay, bor- 
dered on the southerly side by Lamboan Hadjee town ; near 
which is the landing, and the only place allowed for trade in the 
district. To the east of Lamboan Hadjee Point, the land is low, 
and covered with trees, while from the northerly side of the bay 
there were but a few houses, the place having been lately burnt. 

A low, small, sandy island, which is formed on a coral bank, 
nearly covered at high water, lies between Pulo Mall and Lam- 
boan Hadjee Point. This small island is not much or any more 
than a hundred rods from the mainland, and cannot be seen more 
than two or three miles from a ship's deck. Between this and 
the main shore is safe anchorage and smooth water, while the 
surf breaks high and continually on the outside of the island; 
the shore where the surf is formed may be half a mile or more 
in length, and at low water is nearly bare, while the soundings are 
deep close aboard, and all around it. Turtles resort here in great 
numbers at certain seasons. To the southward and eastward of 
the island, near to the main, there are several dangerous shoals, 
and within a mile and a half of the island, which serve to defend 
the landing of Pulo Matt in front from the western swell, and 
from the south part of the bay within the island. 

The passage to the anchoring ground or harbour within the island 



1832.] ISLAND OF SUMATBAc 211 

is at the northern end, at the distance of two cable lengths from 
a coral shoal, over which the swell* sometimes breaks. Vessels 
intending to anchor within this Uttle island must round the north 
end near to ; when between il#and Ae main, moor where it suits, 
laying the heaviest anchor to the nosthwest, on account of the 
heavy swell from that quarter. The soundings arie three or four ' ^ 
fathoms near the shore on either side, and the channel is clear, ^ 

with ten or fifteen &thoms water, muddy bottom. The tides ebb 
and flow from two and a«half to three feet. At low water it is not 
convenient to land at the beach in a common boat, on account o| 
the coral reef and shoals that extend some way from the landing- 
place. Here were found small wells of excellent water. ' The 
rajah of Lamboan Hadjee claimed jurisdiction at the island and 
harbour, and together with the rajah of Soo-soo, appeared anx- 
ious to trade and hold friendly communication with Americans 
visiting the coast. He found head men at all the landing-places 
within the distr^te, but says instances have occurred, when they 
can get arms anF^a few vagabonds about them, that they have 
declared their independence of the principal rajahs ; but not being 
supported by any force that can be relied on, they are generally 
soon overcome. A surprise from these fellows, he says, is chiefly 
to be guarded against on the coast at first landing, or at any of 
the small unfrequented places. 

The captain remarks, that he was at some pains to inquire into 
die truth of the many frightful reports of vessels being cut ofi*, 
plundered, men murdered, &c., but coutd not learn that any thing 
of the kind had ever taken place on the west coast under the au- 
thority of any of the legal governments, except against vessels 
which had committed acts of piracy by seizing coasting proas, 
and forcibly taking away their cargoes. Occurrences of this kind 
had taken place even in Lamboan Hadjee Bay, by vessels from 
some of the European settlements. When any thing of this kind 
happens, the rajahs unite forces and take the vessels by stonn, 
stratagem, or any means in their power. The natives do not 
easily forget such wrongs, but embrace the first opportunity of 
doing themselves, as they deem, justice, by retaliation upon the 
first aggressors. 

At this period, the King of Acheen had several armed brigs 
and proas, which he frequently sent along the coast to enforce the 

o2 



^ 



212 voTAOX OF THE POTOMAC. [Febiuaiy, 

laws, and collect the reyenue, as well as to prevent traders from 
going into ports not approved of or licensed to trade. '* We were 
frequently," says the captain, " on shore at Lamboan Hadjee, a mile 
or two from the vessel, with large quantities of pepper, which could 
not be got off till a late hour at night, but had no cause to com- 
plain for the want of protection, or of having any of it stolen, 
though only one or two hands were left in charge of it. Several 
of the ship's company went back into the country as far as the 
settlements, and even to the mountains, either out of curiosity or 
to shoot hogs, which were very plenty ; and always met with the 
utmost civility and kindness from the natives. Probably if we 
had treated them," he continues, " as the Europeans are generally 
disposed to act towards the meaner castes of India, these privileges 
might not have been allowed, or at least would have been attended 
with more danger." From observations made during his stay, it 
was found that a trifle, with friendly manners, would always secure 
their friendship. He saw but little quarrelling among themselves ; 
robberies and other crimes were severely punished among them, 
and that too in the most summary manner. For theft, the criminal 
is secured to a kind of wooden cross, by order of the rajah, who 
constitutes the whole court, and thrown into the water of a pit or 
some other dirty place, and is there held until strangled to death. 
There is no delay between trial and execution, no irons, no 
prisons ! 

When the vessel was ready to depart, the rajah and many of 
his people came down to the beach, not as beggars, but with evi- 
dent signs of friendship, bringing and putting into the boats sugar- 
cane, a few fowls, cocoanuts, with other trifles ; and when a short 
distance from the shore, two six-pounders were fired from the 
rajah's fort in compliment to the captain. They had more pepper 
on the beach for sale, but as his accounts were closed he could 
not take it, and it seemed to be a matter of perfect indifference to 
them whether he did or not. 

Such is the interesting picture drawn by Dana of his visit 
among these people, in the year eighteen hundred and two. How 
much of human suffering had been prevented throughout agonized 
and bleeding India, had the early European voyagers to the east 
been governed by principles so just and so humane ! But while 
he noted the favourable incidents of his visit, he seems not to 



18dS.] ISLAND OP BVMATEA. 213 

have been without some misgiyings, and has left a warning to 
other navigators, which shows, notwithstandibg all he had p|re- 
viously said, an entire want of i^onfldence in the general character 
of the people ; for he would not feel safe doing business at any of 
the outports, without a sufficient number 6f men and arms onboard 
to defend his vessel in case of any attempt to surprise. A strong 
and vigilant watch was at all times necessary. He recommended, 
as highly prudent in vessels procuring cargoes of pepper, to 
have strong crews, notwithstanding the additional^ expense; for 
it is not possible always to make despatch, if doing business on 
shore. While some of the men are on land, others in the boats, 
there should always be a sufficient force on board to manage or 
defend the vessel, as emergences required. If there should be 
any of the crew sick, as often happens, and generally from im» 
prudence, without a strong crew business would go on but slowly; 
as there is no getting the Malays to work when they can possibly 
avoid it. 

Within Lamboan Hadjee Bay are many coral shoals, and a 
long heavy swell sometimes heaves in from the westward, often 
breaking high, and should not be too carelessly encountered, either 
in boats or by a vessel. A coral shoal, over which the waves 
sometimes break, bears from Sandy Island southwest or south- 
west-by-west, distant four or five miles. Point Mangin is low 
land, covered with lofty trees, with the littje huts of the inhabi- 
tants interspersed among them, l^ere are many corals about 
this point, and it is difficult, at all times, to land, on account of 
the rollers that break upon the beach. At the distance of about 
two miles north of Point Mangin is Tally Pow,firom which Soo- 
800, eight or nine miles further north, may be seen. Abreast of 
these places. Tally Pow and Mangin, there is good anchorage in 
from seven to seventeen fathoms, clay bottom, which is convenient 
to the beach of either place. In Soo-soo Bay, about a mile north 
of Tally Pow, there is a large shoal, over which the sea contin* 
ually breaks, which serves, however, as a defence to the landing 
at Tally Pow, and affords inside of it smooth water and sandy 
bottom. When in the offing, a league or two from shore, the 
mountains in the interior have a broken and rugged appearance. 
Between the shore and foot of the mountains is a large tract of 



i 

214 TOTAOB-OF TBI NToiuc. [Febroaiy, 

low land, over which are spread out, in extenaiTe cuhiTation, the 
'pepper plantations. 

On the twenty-sixth dT April, serenteen hundred and ninety- 
eight, Captain Joseph Ropes, in the ship Recovery, left Salem, 
bound direct for. Mocha, Arabia Felix, and arrived in that port on 
the ninth of September. This was the first American vessel that 
ever displayed the stripes and stars in that part of the world. 
The captain, who is still living, informed us that the arrival of 
the strange ship was viewed with great interest by the authorities, 
who could not divine fircmi whence she came, and made frequent 
inquiries to know how many moons she had been coming. The 
same captain visited Padang, Sumatra, in eighteen hundred; 
found the natives well disposed, and was very successful in pro- 
curing a cargo of pepper. 

We shall notice but one more of these early voyages, as the 
trade had already assumed much importance, and many vessels 
were now in the business. The ship Putnam sailed from Salem, 
November twenty-first, eighteen huiklred and two. An idea of 
the rapid growth of the trade may be infeired from the fact, that 
during the same year, no less than thirty American vessels, 
generally small, visited the coast, seeking cargoes of pepper. 
The range of ports on the west side had proportionably increased, 
such as Analaboo, Soo-soo, Tangar, North Tally Pow, besides 
several smaller ports. From Ansdaboo were shipped a thousand 
piculs ; Soo-soo, eighteen hundred piculs ; Tangar, fifteen hundred 
piculs; North Tally Pow, five thousand six hundred piculs; 
Laboan Hadjee, eight thousand piculs ; Muckie, eighteen hundred 
piculs. Soo-soo and Muckie were at that time the most important 
ports on the coast. 

From this period up to the time of the interruptions occasioned 
by the late war with Great Britain, the trade on the coast of Su- 
matra was regularly prosecuted by our merchants, from several 
ports of the United States, Salem always taking the lead. We 
cannot conclude this chapter, therefore, without again recurring to 
the space this latter place has filled in the commercial history of 
our country. In the revolutionary struggles, Salem took a decided 
and early stand. When the port of Boston was shut by an act 
of the British parliament, in retaliation for the destruction of the 
tea which the Bostonians had thrown overboard, the merchants of 



I 



1832.] I8LAKD OP StrilATRA. 215 

Salem offered their friends of Boston the free use of their wharves 
and stores until the act should be repealed, or the dispute settled. 

Salem, with the neighbouring towns, Marblehead and Beverly, 
were foremost in taking out letters of marque and reprisal, and 
were wonderfully successful. The records of these early times 
show that the bravery of these hardy adventurers was a theme 
of praise throughout the colonies, and also among their enemies. 
When peace arrived, and our independence was acknowledged, 
the merchants of Salem, as has appeared in this chapter, were 
among the first to explore new channels of trade, disdaining to 
confine themselves to the narrow track of a colonial commerce, 
such as they had been restricted to when under Great Britain. 
With a few erroneous maps and charts, a sextant, and '' Guthrie's 
Grammar," they swept round the Cape of Good Hope, exhausted 
the markets of the Isles of France and Bourbon, and pushing on- 
ward, entered the Straits of Babelmandel, and secured the trade 
of the Red Sea. They brought from Madras, Calcutta, and Bom* 
bay, the best of their staples, and had their choice of the products 
of Ceylon and Sumatra. 

They had also a double share of the Canton trade ; in fact, their 
ships were seen in every part of the Indian Seas, and were held 
in respect by all commercial nations. Much credit is due to the forcr 
most in these enterprises. Derby, Gray, Crowningshield, Peale, 
White, Forrester, and others, were followed by Thomdike, Pea- 
body, Pickman, West, Silsbee, the sons of the elder Derby and 
of Crowningshield, and many other enterprising merchants. 

While engaged in this profitable commerce, they were assidu- 
ous in gaining a knowledge of the countries they visited, and 
gathered many curiosities and antiquities of the east, of which 
they have formed a splendid museum for tl^ benefit of science 
and the arts, and the gratification of the curious who visit their 
town. 

" The Salem East India Marine Society is composed of per- 
sons who have actually navigated the seas beyond the Cape of 
Good Hope or Cape Horn, as masters or supercargoes of vessels 
belonging to Salem. It was founded in October, seventeen hun- 
dred and ninety-nine, and obtained an act of incorporation in 
eighteen hundred and one. Two hundred and eighty-two members 
have been admitted, ninety-one have died, and seven have retired 



1 



*tl6 TOTAOB or THB POTOMAC. [FebnuajTy 

firom the society ; to that at present it consists of one hundred 
and eighty-four members, of whom one hundred and thirty-two 
still reside in Salem." . 

The chief objects of the institntionarey to assist the widows and 
children of its members, when they need it, from the funds of the 
society ; to collect &cts and make observations, which may tend 
to the improvement and security of navigation ; and to form a 
museum rf natural and artificial curiosities, to consist chiefly of 
ijoch as are brought from beyond the Cape of Good Hope and 
Cape Horn. 

The very nature of these Yoyages gave a peculiar character to 
the people. The length of time they passed on the ocean, gave 
the officers in these ships fine opportunities to improve their 
minds in various branches of knowledge. From among the masters, 
supercargoes, and other lofficers of these Tndiamen, it is said there 
have been, from the town of Salem, a great number of the members 
of each branch of the legislature of the state : we know there 
have been three members of congress, two secretaries of the 
navy, a United States senator, and a great mathematician, second to 
no one in ancient or modem times ; one who has corrected the 
works of Newton, and enlarged the heavens of La Place ; and, in 
fine, many distinguished minds in every walk of life. Whatever 
our success in commerce hereafter may be, the enterprise of 
Salem will still continue an era in our annals, worthy the pen of 
the first conunercial historian. 



18S2.] ULiKO or smATRA. 2IT 



CHAPTER Xra. 

Sumatra — ^Effects of the Potomac's yisit illustrated by facts — Piratical practice's of 
the Natives previous to that event, and their good conduct since — ^Their former 
frequent attempts and failures proved by their own confessions, and the testimony 
of Shipmasters — ^Their triumphant boasting respecting the Friendship, and threats 
of future aggressions — Effect of that event on our eastern commerce — Revival 
of that commerce after the attack on Quallah-Battoo — ^Anecdote of Mahommed 
Bundah — ^His visit to the Potomac — Respect and admiration of the American 
character — ^Hints to Government on the protection of our commerce. 

Before we take a final leave of Sumatra, it may be well to 
pause a moment and to inquire, what will be the effect of the 
Potomac's visit to the pepper- coast, and whether it will tend to' 
the security of our commercial interests, and to the personal 
safety of our countrymen, in their future intercourse with the 
natives of that place. These are momentous inquiries, and they 
not only deserve to be treated with the greatest attention, care, and 
firankness, but also to be illustrated by every fact that can throw a 
single ray of light upon a subject of such paramount importance. 

We are now ready to meet these questions promptly and fairly ; 
for up to the present moment we have reason to believe that the 
minds of no inconsiderable portion of the American people, who 
take an interest in such matters, have been misled with regard to 
the true merits of the case and the inevitable result of this highly 
important enterprise. We are now prepared to determine the 
point, and to prove by the strongest testimony of which the case 
is susceptible, that the Potomac's visit to the western coast of Su- 
matra has resulted decidedly and unequivocally in the complete 
attainment of the objects contemplated by our government ; and 
that the enterprise was not only wisely conceived, and faithfully 
and ably executed, but that any deviation from the coiu'se actually 
pursued, must have been followed by an almost inconceivable 
train of evils. The time has arrived when we can speak know* 
ingly on the subject. 

While in the Pacific Ocean, we fell in with a vessel which had 
visited Quallah-Battoo after the departure of the Potomac. Since 



218 . TOYAOB OF THE POTOMAC. [Febroaiy; 

our letum to the United States we have made it a point to go 
any distance, and in almost every direction, for the purpose of 
seeing, conversing with, and closely examining the intelligent mas- 
ters, supercargoes, and officers of such American vessels as have 
been in the habit of trading and holding intercourse with the in- 
habitants, both previous and subsequent to our attack on Quallah- 
Battoo, on the sixth of February, eighteen hundred and thirty-two. 

In prosecuting this investigation, the points to which our in- 
quiries have been especially directed are, the general deportment 
of the Malays before the outrage on the Friendship ; the effect 
of that successful act of piracy along the coast, previously to the 
arrival of the Potomac ; and the apparent feelings and deport- 
ment of the same people since the occurrence of that event. 

To all these respectable and intelligent individuals we have 
uniformly propounded the same questions, and have received 
their distinct, separate, and individual replies, without the knowl- 
edge or possibility of concert with each other. These answers 
have afterward been carefully compared ; and from more than 
twenty written documents, taken from the mouths of our inform- 
ants, it is scarcely possible to select the least item of discrepance ; 
a very material fact, which goes far to confirm the following views, 
which we now give as the abstract and substance of their united 
testimony. Of the fidelity of our statements they will be able to 
judge. 

It is agreed that piracy had become a system with many petty 
chiefs on the coast, and particularly at Quallah-Battoo. Three or 
four years previous to the capture of the Friendship, they had 
attempted to cut off, or manifested evident intentions to do so, al- 
most every vessel that had entered their ports. We shall only 
mention a few, out of many cases that might be cited. 

A Salem brig was on the coast with specie, but had not com- 
menced loading : the captain had never traded with the Malays, 
and was a stranger to most of the inhabitants of Quallah-Battoo. 
A proa was fitted out by them, for the express purpose of cap- 
turing his vessel while she lay at anchor ; but he most fortunately 
suspected their designs, and would not permit them to come along- 
side. On their return to Battoo, they made no secret of the ob- 
ject of their unsuccessful expedition; the leader of which has 
lately been executed by the Dutch for piracy. 



1832.] ISLAND OF SUMATRA. 219 

Another American brig was trading at Qualiah-Battoo, a few 
weeks before the disaster of the Friendship, with weights so much 
lighter than are required for a Malay picul, that several of them 
who owned no pepper, and who saw that the captain was entirely 
ignorant of trade, advised him to make them heavier. A plan 
was also projected to take this vessel in the same manner they 
afterward did the Friendship, by sending a greater number of Ma- 
lays with the pepper to the vessel. This was prevented by one 
of the native clerks, who takes an account of the pepper ; and 
who knew that if they succeeded, his only means of support 
would be cut off, in cpnsequence of vessels avoiding the port ; 
and embracing a moment when no one was observing him, said 
to the captain, " Twenty bags pepper — twenty-five men — ^take 
care !" A boat usually carries one hundred bags and seven men. 

The clerk had good reasons to be cautious ; as, not long before, 
it is said another had been poisoned for giving a similar intimation 
of an intended act of piracy ; and it is often owing to the clerks 
that so many projected schemes of villany have been frustrated. 
In the present instance, the captain being thus apprized of his 
danger, took immediate measures to defeat the nefarious intentions 
of the conspirators ; who, in this instance, had certainly no provo- 
cation. The same captain afterward went to Soo-soo; where 
they detained him on shore, under some frivolous pretext, and he 
was finally compelled to pay two hundred dollars for his release or 
ransom. 

These unsuccessful attempts at cutting off vessels on the 
coast had become so common, that the utmost vigilance was 
necessary on the part of every shipmaster engaged in the trade. 
One of our intelligent informants was marked as the prey of the 
pirates, on his first voyage to Sumatra. Soon after his arrival on 
the coast, before he had opened any dealings with them, a large 
proa was sent from Quallah-Battoo to captiu'e his vessel. Quick 
in their discrimination of strangers, they presumed upon his suj)- 
posed ignorance of their character, and had made powerful ar- 
rangements for carrying their nefarious design into execution. 

The captain, however, had not come upon the coast without 
his precautionary lesson; and, therefore, suspecting mischief, 
instead of permitting the well-manned proa to lie alongside, he 
C(»npelled them to anchor at a distance. He had but eight men 



220 T0TA6B OF THE POTOMAC. [Febroaiy 

on board, and had the well'-anned Malays resolutely sprang among 
them, nothing could haye saved the vessel. The captain after- 
ward ascertained to a certainty, that the intended assailants were 
well prepared with loaded blunderbusses, concealed in the hold, 
of which fact they openly boasted at Quallah-Battoo, and ex- 
pressed the bitterest chagrin at failing in the avowed object of 
their expedition. 

The leader of this lawless gang, whose name is Mattavee, 
afterward armed a proa, and commenced a system of piracy 
against his own countrymen. Indeed, the instances of their 
piracy on each other are very common ; and they often display as 
much treachery in their intercourse with each other, as they ex- 
ercise towards strangers. Every Achenese who has the means, 
resides in a fort, with swivels pointed out of the room in which 
he sleeps, and guns mounted over the gate, which is seldom 
opened, a small hole being cut in it, just sufficiently large to admit 
one man at a time. Though always armed, a single man rarely 
ventures to pass from one village to another, particularly in the 
night. In one word, such a thing as mutual confidence does not 
exist among them. 

Every advantage which accident or the misfortune of a ship- 
master may give these people, is sure tol)e improved in extorting 
money from him ; and often without the least shadow of justice, 
as the following incident will show. 

The master of an American vessel, who took in a part of his 
cargo at Muckie, had promised, on certain conditions, to give the 
chief fifty dollars. Something, however, occurring to' prevent the 
latter fulfilling his part of the contract, it was mutually agreed 
between them that the promise of the captain was null and void, 
and that the chief had no claim upon him. Nothing further was 
said on the subject until the vessel had completed her loading, 
when the captain was decoyed into a room on shore by several 
Achenese, where the chief before mentioned advanced with a 
drawn fcm, and demanded of him fifty dollars ! 

The captain reminded him of their mutual arrangement on 
this subject, and the clear\inderstanding that the money was not to 
be paid ; and that there were witnesses present who could testify to 
the fact. The chief replied, that the captain had met with a great 
misfortune in losing his memory, and that the money must and 



1882.] I8L1KD OF SUMATRA. S2l 

should be paid! A compromise was finally effected, and the 
vessel sailed. The next season, this same chief acknowledged^ 
in the presence of several Americans, that the money was noi 
due ; and this happened at a place where the people were justly 
esteemed to be the best on the coast. 

While the brig Thule, of New- York, was lying at Quallah- 
Battoo, several of her men deserted, whom the rajah took under 
his protection, gave them arms, and told them to shoot the captain 
if he attempted to molest them, tie then negotiated with the 
captain to restore the men at a certain stipulated price. The 
men« however, were never given up ; and the captain, having lost 
several others by sickness, was compelled to leave the port with 
only seven hands, including himself, being about half her 
complement. « 

Po Quallah, while at Joo-Joo, boasted of his success in taking 
the Friendship ; and observed, to adopt his own expression — " My 
feet are now stained with blood ; and if I dip my whole body, it 
will be no worse for me in this world or the next. I will now 
cut off every American vessel that falls in my power." This 
remark implies a consciousness of vmrong, even in a religious 
point of view, and the Malays, at other ports, have frequently 
admitted that the people at Quallah-Battoo deserved punishment. 
Yet it is a well-known fact, that after the piratical capture of 
the Friendship, almost every Malay on the coast exulted, consid* 
ering it a national triumph over " the invincible white man." In 
fact, on every part of the coast, as can be testified by many re- 
spectable.witnesses, they boastingly threatened that if the Amer- 
ican government did not notice the outrage at Quallah-Battoo, 
every American vessel that visited the coast on the following 
season would suffer the fate of the Friendship. This was re- 
peatedly uttered, at ports so distant firom each other, and so soon 
after the event, that it goes far to prove the piratical propensities 
of these people ; and that if they could rob and murder with im- 
punity, neither moral considerations, nor their allegiance to any 
superior power, should restrain them. 

Willing and anxious as we are to meet the whole question, let 
it be admitted, for a moment, that among thcT victims of our 
justice at Quallah-Battoo, there were some innocent individual!. 
If such be the fact, no one can regret it more ^an ourselves, as 



229 VOYAGE OF THE POTOMAC. [FehniBiyi 

onk of the inseparable evils to a state of warfare. But let us be 
permitted to ask, how many innocent persons there could have 
been in the place, when almost the whole population poured out 
from the village, and rushed down to the water's edge — ^nay, even 
waded into the surf, flourishing their weapons, to prevent the 
escape of Captain Endicott to his ship, on board of which the 
massacre of his crew had already commenced ? Who will say 
that all did not participate in the outrage, when every one ex- 
claimed, as he saw the preconcerted signal of success waving 
from the taflferel, " The ship is taken ! — the ship is ours !" 

We freely admit the justice and humanity of that legal maxim 
which allows ninety and nine guilty persons to go " unwhipped 
of justice," rather than one innocent *being should suffer; for it is 
pedkc|}y applicable to that state of society in which are vigilant 
guardians of the peace, and where the strong arm of the law 
arrests the culprit almost as soon as the offence is committed. 
But it cannot be appropriately applied to the present case, where, 
as we have abundantly shown, every shadow of law and justice 
is recklessly trampled under foot ; where the lives and property 
of our citizens, while engaged in their peaceful and lawful pur- 
suits, can receive no protection from the nominal rulers ; where 
the elevation of rank and station is seldom accompanied by the 
elevation of moral character; and where the rajahs themselves 
descend to the same petty tricks that are practised by their 
meanest subjects. Lenity to such people is inhumanity to the 
honest and deserving. 

Knowing, as we do, the character of this people, the length of 
time which has elapsed since the commencement of our inter- 
course with them, and the number of vessels trading on the coast, 
the only matter of astonishment is, that they should have es- 
caped so long ! It is, doubtless, owing in part to the unceasing 
vigilance of the masters of vessels trading on the coast, and partly 
from an exaggerated idea of the physical superiority of the 
Americans, and the apprehension of the more wealthy of losing 
our trade, which to them is a matter of the utmost importance. 
But their diminished resources, in consequence of the present 
depreciation in the value of pepper, and their additional wants, 
arising from the increased consumption of opium, have of late years 
tendered Qiany so desperate, that they are ripe for the conunission 



18tt.| ISLAND OF SUMATRA. -.228 

of uiy crime, firom which they are not restrained by the feifr of 
punishment. In confirmation of this fact we have numerous 
incidents before us, with one of which only we shall trouble the 
reader. 

Soon after the afiair of the Friendship, the brig Homer, Captain 
Loveitt, came to anchor off Quallah-Battoo ; and though he hap- 
pened to be, from vague rumour, aware that something wrong had 
occurred, he was not exactly acquainted with what it was ; and, 
in consequence, went directly and confidently on shore in his 
boat with two men. He had Jthe precaution, however, to order 
his men in the boat to shove off to some distance from the beacbi 
while he advanced to communicate with the rajahs. 

It was not many minutes before he found himself a prisoner, 
and surrounded by a vast number of armed Malays, deterfKUfied 
to despatch him. They held a solemn debate among theQiselves 
on the policy of the measm-e ; the amount of which, together 
with their fatal determination, was communicated to the captain 
by one of the minority, in broken EngUsh. Expostulations he 
knew would be fruitless, and he was about resigning himself to 
the dreadful fate which appeared inevitably to await him, when 
an aged Achenese arose, and with the usual salutatory gesture^ 
spoke on the unpopular side of the question. His argimients in 
favour of the prisofter were not appeals to their justice or humanity^ 
but to their self-interest. He maintained that if they laid violent 
hands on the captain, the getting possession of his vessel was 
still a very doubtful matter ; while, in either case, the loss of the 
American trade was equally certain. Here was much to lose 
and nothing to gain. This argument was deemed unanswerable, 
and the captain was finally restored to liberty. 

The same kind of feeling at that time pervaded the natives 
along the whole coast, and the same sentiments were boldly and 
hourly expressed up to the period of the Potomac's arrival. The 
Malays daily became more insolent and presuming, and without 
the most incessant vigilance and wary precaution, no American's 
life was safe. Many of the pepper planters, who had become 
ruined by the indulgence of their extravagant and dissipated pro- 
pensities, sometimes staking a whole crop on a single cock-fight, 
were no better than reckless desperadoes, inciting and urging each- 
other to acts of piracy and murder ; while others, of more power 



224 



TOTAGB OF THE POTOMAC. 



[Febmaxy, 



and influence^ were not only restrained by motives of policy and 
self-interest, but they recollected that twelve moons had not 
yet passed away, and that the big ship, with whose visit they had 
been threatened, might yet come to their shores.* 

Hence it appears evident, that a regular system of piracy on our 
commerce with Sumatra was only prevented by the conflicting 
passions of fear and cupidity on one part, and the increased cau- 
tion and vigilance of shipmasters on the other. From the con- 
current testimony of every person familiar with the Malay char- 
acter, and who happened to be on the coast at the period alluded 
to, we are fully convinced, that had not our goven;iment sent an 
armed vessel to redress our grievances, or had the commander 
of that vessel acted with indecision and want of energy, the 
United States' commerce on that coast would, in a very short 
time, have been totally annihilated. 

To what extent the commercial interests of our country were 
actually affected by the piratical capture of the Friendship, we 
are not prepared to say, with any degree of precision ; but official 
records show that our imports from and exports to India and China, 
were, for the years 1830, 1831, and 1832, as follows : — 





Imports from — 




Export* to — 




1880, 


China 


13,878,141 


1 156,290 domestic produce 
585,903 .foreign do. 




Asia generally 


94,461 


56,318 domestic 
229,290 foreign 


do. 
do. 


1831, 


China 


3,083,205 


244,790 domestic 
1,046,045 foreign 


do. 
do. 




Asia generally 


77,861 


48,268 domestic 
251,126 foreign 


do. 
do. 


1832, 


China 
Arabia 


5,344,907 
24,025 


336,162 domestic 
924,360 foreign 


do. 
do. 




Asia generally 


111,180 


42,838 domestic 
469,489 foreign 


do. 
do. 



Cape of Good Hope 12,015 

From the above it will be seen, that in the year eighteen hun- 
dred and thirty-one, the commencement of which was distinguished 
by the piratical capture of the Friendship, mercantile confidence 
was impaired ; or, from some cause or other, our imports from the 
east were much reduced in amount from those of the preceding year. 
But after the visit of the Potomac, and the punishment of the 

* See page 226. 



1832.] ISLAND OF SUMATRA. 225 

pirates, an event which marked the commencement c{ eighteen 
himdred and thirty-two, our imports from the east were augmented 
more than one third, while our exports of domestic produce were 
increased in the same ratio. The increase was still greater in the 
year eighteen hundred and thirty-three, up to the month of 
September. To China, the exports of domestic produce were 
$537,T74 ; foreign produce, $895,774 ; and to Asia generally, 
domestic produce, 860,152; foreign, $477,042. Imports from 
China, $7,541,570 ; Asia generally, $269,425. 

Along the whole pepper coast, since the visit of the Potomac^ 
a remarkable change has taken place in the deportment of the 
natives. Ever since that (to them) memorable event, they have 
been far less presuming and insolent ; are guilty of fewer unjust 
exactions ; acknowledge on all hands that they have received new 
lights on the subject of our national character, and confess that, 
contrary to their former opinion of our being " merely a nation 
of traders," they now own the superiority of our power, and sen- 
sibly feel that we have both the will and the means to redress our 
grievances. 

The port of Muckie, as we have already stated, is a place of 
considerable trade, about twenty-five miles south of Quallah-Bat* 
too. Here resides a young native of somA' consequence and no- 
toriety, both as a pilot and pepper trader, hy^A^ name of Mahom- 
med Bundah. He is shrewd, intelligdht, ^ikl enterprising, and is 
respected by his countrymen as secdoud pnly to the rajah. He is 
well acquainted on the coast, particulariy at Laboan Hadjee, a 
port but a few miles further north, occasionally visited by Amer- 
ican traders. 

Previous to the capture of the FriesjOship, a similar project was 
in agitation, by a gang of young desperadoes at Laboan Hadjee, for 
seizing an American vessel then lying at that port ; and as they 
wished for a bold and active leader, they sent a message to Ma- 
hommed Bundalu at Muckie, stating that they wished to see him 
on business of importance. Ignorant of their intentions, the young 
man repaired to Laboan Hadjee, where they let him into the secret 
of their conspiracy, and solicited him to join the expedition, with 
a promise of one half the booty which might accrue from the ad- 
venture, in case of success. 

Young Bundah resisted the temptation, as he. 8a3r8, on th0 



226 VOYAGE OF THE POTOMAC. [February, 

groands ihat if they were even successful, which was extremely 
doubtful, the sum of money which would fall to his share would 
be no compensation for the loss he should sustain in mercsoitile 
reputation, together with the confidence and trade of the Amer- 
icans ; while the attempt, without succeeding, would be all loss 
and no gain. He would therefore have nothing to do with it. 

After the disaster of the Friendship, her commander. Captain 
Endicott, told Mahonuned Bundah that within the space of twelve 
months from the perpetration of that piratical act, a big ship from 
the United States would most assuredly visit Quallah-Battoo^ and 
severely punish the aggressors. Young Bundah was seriously 
V struck with this solemn assurance, and expressed strong feelings 
of alarm for the result. Captain Endicott therefore assured him 
that no one would suffer but the guilty, as Americans never in- 
jured the unoffending ; and that he and his friends need be under 
no apprehensions on account of their property or personal safety. 
As a pledge of his sincerity, the captain gave Mahommed a letter 
of introduction and recommendation to the commander of the 
hostile force, whoever he might be, that should visit the coast. 

Bundah was not alone in being affected by this menace of na- 
tional vengeance, so' solemnly predicted by Captain Endicott. It 
was circulated and talked of all along the coast. Some, like 
their friends in another quarter, " believed and trembled." Many 
reckless spirits heard it with indifference ; and the great majority 
ridiculed it as an impossibility. 

In the mean time, " moons waxed and waned," time rolled on, 
and the first influence of the prediction became gradually weak- 
ened in the minds of all. Like the Jews of old, they began to 
doubt the veracity of the prophet, and to mock at the tardiness 
of justice. 

Twelve months had nearly elapsed — ^the thirteenth moon was at 
hand, and they still reposed in fancied security, continually project- 
ing new acts of piracy, in the execution of which they were so often 
defeated. In two days more, they would hail the anniversary of 
the Friendship's capture, which would occur on Friday, the ninth 
of February, eighteen hundred and thirty-two, and all were de- 
riding the idea of the threatened visitation of the " big ship." 

But on Monday the sixth, the inhabitants of Muckie were 
thrown into a paroxysm of terror and alarm, by the fatal tidings 



i 



i8d2.} ISLAND OF SUKATIU; 227 

of the entire destruction of Quallah-Battobj with ah exaggerated 
account of the slaughter of the Malays — ^that " the big ship" had 
indeed come, within tvto days of the specified period ! that the 
arm of vengeance had fallen tipon them in an hour when they 
looked not for itf and that the smouldering ruins of Quallah- 
Battoo might be gazed upon as a monument of American justice. 

Yoimg Bundah was powerfully affected by this intelligence ; 
but he also recollected his letter to the commanding officer, and 
resolved, at all hazards, to visit the big ship, and to deliver it 
himself. 

The frigate was lying at anchor at Soo-so6, where he detet^ 
mined to visit her, and, if possible, appease the just wrath of her 
commander, according to oriental usage, by the choicest presents 
he could command. He accordingly freighted his canoe with 
fowls, together with all such fruits of the island as he thought 
would prove acceptable to the American chief. But just as he was 
on the point of starting, his mother heard of his desperate inten- 
tions ; and, with the amiable tenderness of a fond and anxious 
parent, was so much alarmed for the safety of hef only son, that 
she begged him, with tears, to desist from a purpose which to her 
excited imagination was so fraught with peril, if not leading to 
certain death. The chiefs and principal men of the place united 
their entreaties with hers, in endeavouring to dissuade the young 
man from his rash enterprise, which they considered as running 
voluntarily into the tiger's mouth. As he still persisted in his pur- 
pose, the superior rajah, at the instigation of his mother, peremp- 
torily forbade him to proceed. 

Silenced, but not convinced, young Bundah affected to acqui- 
esce and conform to their wishes. He unloaded his canoe, and 
professed to have abandoned his intentions. But no sooner had 
night drawn a veil over his proceedings, than his ready bark was 
cautiously reladen ; and, accompanied with only one Malay, he 
pushed his little vessel from the shore, and both laying th^ir mus« 
cular arms to the oars, directed their course for Soo-soo. 

They had no light of the moon to cheer their lonely passage, 
and having now sufficient time for reflection, the young adven- 
turer began to feel some serious apprehensions for the effect of 
his rashness. Parental authority and affection hdd been requited 
by filial disobedience, which is almost the only crime that xe^ 

P2 



,988 voYAQE OF THJs FOTOMAC. [February, 

oeives uniyersal reprehension among these people. But believ- 
mg that he had adyanced too far to recede, he resolyed to go on 
with firipness, but with every, requisite* caution. He therefore 
ol^^nged his plan so far as to land at Soo-soo, to reconnoitre and 
inake inquiries. He did so, and the next morning's sun lighted 
his little well-freighted bark on her way to the frigate. 

His feelings, on thus approximating to the big ship, which had 
just poured such a cataract of ruin on the pirates of Quallah- 
Battoo, can more easily be conceived than described. He him- 
self describes them in a style of firank simplicity that is highly 
amusing. His first idea, on becoming sensible of the vessel's 
actual nuignitude, was, '* No enough piculs of pepper to load 
such big ship !" On rowing alongside, he was instantly recog- 
nised by Mr. Barry, second officer of the unfortunate Friendship, 
who invited him on board, and pledged himself for his protection 
and kind treatment. 

Reassured by this imexpected welcome by an old acquaint- 
ance, Mahommed was soon on the spardeck of the Potomac, 
where the first thing that arrested his attention was the splendid 
naval uniform of the officers; a costume which he had never 
seen before. But from the commanding deportment and golden 
epaulets which distinguished one individual on the quarterdeck, 
he was at no loss as to where his respects were first due. Con- 
ducted by Mr. Barry, he timidly proceeded aft, and uncovering 
his head, made a low and almost reverential salam to the com- 
modore ; while the latter, with a smile of welcome, took him by 
the hand, and assured him of his friendship and protection. 
Nearly bewildered with joy at this unlooked-for reception, Ma- 
hommed produced the letter of Captain Endicott, which the com- 
modore perused, and again bid him welcome. The young rajah 
then pointed to his canoe, and spoke of the refreshments it con- 
tained ; on which the commodore ordered them to be passed on 
board, and presented his visiter with twenty dollars as a compen- 
sation. By this time, Mahommed was almost beside himself with 
pleasure, not unmingled with pride, as he said to himself, " What 
the rajah and my mother say to this ?" 

The commodore then assigned Mahommed to the care and pro- 
tection of a middy, who conducted him through various parts of 
th^ ship, and explained every thing which his wondering inquisi* 



18dS.} I8LAKD OF SUMATHA. S^ 

tiyeness required. On descending to the gundeck, which wa^ 
somewhat obscured by the closed ports, he started with surprise 
and alarm at the formidable appearance of what he at first mis^ 
took for a range of wild buffaloes, lying on each side of the ship ; 
but he was soon gi?en to understand^ that these thirty-tW(K 
pounders were far more dangerous to pirates and murder^s than 
all the buffaloes in the wilds of Sumatra. 

After feasting his eyes until he was. satisfied, Mahommed took 
his leave, and soon filled with joy and admiration the bosoms of 
his mother and friends at Muckie, who had all given him up for 
lost. From that day forward this young man has been looked up 
to with more admiration and respect, on account of this perilbus 
achievement, than Columbus was ever honoured with while living; 
for the discovery of a new world !* ' 

Nor was Mahonmied Bundah alone in his feelings of increased 
admiration and respect for the American character, after the at- 
tack on Quallah-Battoo. The powerful rajah of Troumon, whose 
character we have already had occasion to mention in a favour- 
able light, has often been heard to express his astonishment, that 
after he, with all his armed brigs, had vainly endeavoured for two 
years to reduce Quallah-Battoo, the Americans, with the crew of 
a single vessel, had destroyed it in two hours. 

The lust of cupidity arfd thirst for plunder, which, after the 
capture of the Friendship, spread like a contagion along the coast 
froih one port to another, has measurably passed away ; and even 
the surviving rajahs of Quallah-Battoo now frequently express 
their wishes to be visited by our merchant vessels for the pur- 
poses of trade ; and profess that they intend hereafter so to de- 
mean themselves, as never again to provoke the visit of the big 
ships of war. 

In another point of view, they now behold our national char- 
acter in a new light. In the history of the past, the investment 
and capture of a native tovni was always followed, as a matteif 
of course, by the possession and occupation on the part of the 
conquerors. When Quallah-Battoo was taken by the force's under 



* Such are the particulars, ai oflen related by Bil^dah himself to CapUin C. 
WiUtams, to whom we are indebted for many useful facts; for he not only traded^ 
bat noted with an intelligent eye what he saw oo4he eoast of Stmiatra, 



230 TOYAGE OP THE POTOMAC. [Februaiy^ 

Gommodore l)owne8, not only its inhabitants, but every one else 
iaVtiie neighbourhood, supposed that the Americans intended to 
establish themselyes at that place, and erect fortifications for its 
defence. They axe now beginning to learn the important lesson, 
that conquest forms no part of our national policy ; and the good 
effects of this lesson are already strikingly apparent. 

" For Columbia never fights 
For conquest or for plunder ; 
Nothing but insulted rights 
Can wake her martial thunder." 

W00DW0»TH. 

But the work has only been fairly commenced — ^much still re- 
n^ains to be accomplished. At intervals, but not too remote from 
each other, our armed vessels should visit this coast. A sloop 
of war and a schooner would be amply sufficient, if conducted 
by a judicious commander. They should arrive on the coast in 
March, and remain until October. Every pepper port should be 
visitedy and conferences should be held with all the principal ra- 
jahs, explaining to them the nature of our commerce, and the 
principles on which we always conduct our trade ; impressing on 
them the necessity of acting with justice, and of restraining their 
dependants from acts of outrage. It should be particularly and 
emphatically represented to them, that an awful responsibility 
rests upon those in authority for any act of piracy that may 
be hereafter committed on the coast ; and that an adequate pun- 
ishment will assuredly tread close upon the heels of the of- 
fenders. 

The officers of our vessel, while engaged in this service, might 
also devote ^ share of their time and attention in making additional 
surveys on the coast ; while much useful information in other de- 
partments of knowledge might be collected. Something might 
thus be done towards removing the reproach, that we have con- 
tributed nothing to improve the hydrography of the Indian Seas, 
In the event of a war, to which contingency, in common with 
other i^ations, our country is ever liable, we shall feel the want 
of a more perfect knowledge of those remote places to which our 
commerce is extended. 

As it respects climate at the pepper ports on the west coast of 
Sumatra, we have an interesting fact before us : that of one hun- 



1832.] ' ISLAND OF SUMATRA. 231 



« f 



died and fifty seamen employed in that trade during the year 
eighteen hmidred and thirty, in ten vessels, very much exposed as 
they usually are on the coast, only one died in the space o{ four 
months ; and his disease was not malignant in its character. In 
selecting an anchorage, a close harbour should be avoided. Rigas 
Bay should not be entered unless from necessity. As a general 
rule, it would be imprudent to anchor where die breezes blow 
over low land, and water from the wells is generally brackish and 
unwholesome. That article, however, can be procured, of an ez« 
cellent quality, from streams which flow from the mountains. 

Again we repeat, that the result of the most patient inquiry, from 
sources which we believe could not lead us astray, has left no 
doubt on our mind, that our interests on the coast of Sumatra have 
been placed on a footing of security hitherto unknown. The 
policy which directed the Potomac to that coast, to be lasting in 
its efiects, must be followed up at all hazards and at any expense ; 
though there exists no reason why either the one or the other 
should be formidable. • 

In every port of India to which our commerce has extended, 
our vessels of war should occasionally make their appearance ; 
for it is always better by^a vnse policy and timely foresight to 
prevent the efiusion of blood, than to be under the painfrd neces* 
sity of avenging it ! 

Let our intelligent shipmasters, supercargoes, and officers, 
whose adventurous spirits lead them to visit the ports of semi- 
barbarians, reflect that they too have an important part to perform. 
They should never forget that they are American citizens ; and 
in those remote situations, often the only representatives of our 
national character. Let them study to elevate that character in 
the estimation of the natives by an honourable intercourse, a just 
and fair competition in trade. For while our government shall 
continue ever vigilant and ready to protect its citizens in their 
lawful trade, and to avenge their wrongs at the most distant points 
of the globe, however difficult and hazardous to approach by 
heavy-armed vessels, considerations of honour, justice, and hu- 
manity require that we should always be in the right. 

An evil still exists on the pepper coast of Sumatra which re-* 
quires correction, while we confess ourselves at a loss to propose 



282 TOTAGS OF THE POTOHAC. [Febmarf, 

a proper remedy. We allude to the want of a regular standard 
of weights. The Malay picol is one hundred and thirty*three and 
a tbiid pounds ; but so far is this from prevailing in all the ports, 
that the standard of weight is as much a matter to be regulated 
by contract, as the price of the pepper itself. The consequence 
must be obvious ; the Malay will sand or wet his pepper, and the 
trader will provide against loss by endeavouring to {procure greater 
weight. The trader in a neighbouring port, fearing that his com- 
petitor will get better measure than himself, and thus enter the 
home market to better advantage, will exert himself in his con- 
tFBCt, so as to guard against such a contingency. While this 
state of things exists, difficulties will occasionally occur; and 
though not of great importance, they are still annoying and per- 
plexing, without bringing profit or advantage to any one. 

We have conversed with no one interested in this subject, who 
does not feel anxious that this difficulty should be removed by 
the establishment of some standard ; and it can make but little 
difference what that standard is, so that it be uniform. By con- 
cert of action, in one season the difficulty might be settled. This 
concert, however, is hard to bring about ; for while all feel the 
necessity, who shall begin the reform ? 

There can be no impropriety in having thir question decided 
and put to rest by government. An armed vessel, visiting the 
coast, might be provided with a standard of one hundred and 
thirty-three and one third pounds weight, to be left with the rajahs 
of the principal ports, with a plain explanation of its object, and 
every cause for cavil or dispute would be immediately removed. 
We offer this as a suggestion, in the adoption of which our mer- 
chants and traders would, we have no doubt, most cheerfully 
acquiesce. 

But we have lingered long — perhaps the reader may think too 
long — ^upon the Island of Sumatra. If there be any of this 
opinion, we beg them to reflect that forty years — a large portion 
of our national existence — have now passed away since the com- 
mencement of our trade on that coast ; that as early as eighteen 
hundred and thr^e, thirty vessels, small ones it is true, were in 
the trade ; that it has been continued with varied success and oc- 
casional interruptions to the present time ; employing from six 



1832.] ISLAND OF SUMATRA. 233 

hundred to twelve hundred thousand dollars capital annually; 
that the direct and circuitous trade springing from this island, had 
formed no inconsiderable item of our commercial prosperity; 
that if the aggregate of the whole trade could be ascertained, it 
would probably not fall far, if any, short of a sum equal to the 
entire capital of the Bank of the United States ; and yet, only a 
short time since, when it became necessary to despatch an armed 
vessel to that point, a chart of the coast was not to be found in 
the possession of our government ! And though the inquiry was 
not actually to be made, in what part of the world Sumatra was 
located, yet almost every thing that was known of it beyond the 
circle of thpse who were engaged in the trade, will be found in 
the Appendix marked A. and B. 

This is not the only point to 'which these remarks might be 
applied ; for many others could be named, were it our present 
purpose to do so. The genius of our people is strongly and de- 
cidedly imbued with the spirit of maritime adventure ; and it is 
hoped, for the honour of our country and the American name, 
that the time has at length come, when the knowledge and pro- 
tection of our government shall at least keep pace with, if not 
lead in, the enterprise of its citizens. • 

Previous to the Potomac, no public vessel had visited India 
and China for the special protection of our commerce, since the 
Congress frigate in eighteen hundred and twenty-two ; and none 
had passed through these seas since, except the Vincennes, on 
her return from the Pacific in eighteen hundred and thirty. Fol- 
lowing in the track of the Potomac, the Peacock and Boxer 
have both been in the east, and through a commercial agent, who 
went in the Peacock, we have understood that some new chan- 
nels of trade have been opened, and obstructions in old ones 
removed. There is still room for further action ; while frirther 
comment is reserved for another place. 

An ample supply of wood and water, and fresh provisions 
from Soo-soo, had now been taken on board ; and the rajahs of 
the neighbourhood continued to pay their visits to the commo- 
dore, or to send their deputations with professions of peace, and 
the promise of their future good deportment towards the Ameri- 
cans. It might have been well, had time permitted fqrther con- 



S84 TOTAGE OF THE POTOMAC. [February, 

ference ; but that was impossible. Other places in the east were 
to be visited, and the wide Pacific was to be crossed, ere the 
Potomac could reach the place of her original destination; so 
that on the morning of the eighteenth of February, the word wai 
given to get under way. 

** The anchor upheayes, the saib unfurl, 
The pennons of silk in the breezes curl ; 
And the crest of the billows before her flung.*' 



16SS.] TWBNTT<SKCOND OW nBBVART. 236 



CHAPTER XIV. 

Passage to the Strait of Sanda — Centennial Anniveraaiy of Washington's Birthday 
— Patriotic Reflections— Enter the Strait — Prince's Island— Java Head— Flat 
Poiut-^-Keyser's Bay — ^Lampoon Bay — Rajah Bassa Peak — ^Hog Point — Hvw 
Bay and Island — Pepper Bay — Anger Roads and village— Cap and Button — 
Bantam, or St. Nicholas* Point — Shores of Bantam — ^Beautiful Prospect — ^Bantam 
Hill, hay, town, and villages — ^Traffic with the natives — Perilous adventure of 
the Conmiodore— Tlie Thousand Islands — Burial of the dead — ^The Potomac 
anchors in Batavia Roads — Beacons in the Strait of Sunda. 

As Stated at the conclusion of the preceding chapter, the Poto^ 
mac left the coast of Sumatra on Saturday, the eighteenth day of 
February, eighteen hundred and thirty-two, and for four days after- 
ward was constantly tantalized with light and yariable winds. Al- 
though at considerable distance from land, on the morning of 
Wednesday, the twenty-second, and within the usual range of the 
regular monsoon, the latter was found to be so much affected by 
the influence of alternate land and seabreezes, that the firigate 
was virtually deprived of the benefit of both. Hence, she was 
almost constantly becalmed, and the slightest breeze was hailed 
as a welcome visiter — all hands running on deck to meet it. 

Besides, this day, the twenty-second of February, eighteen 
hundred and thirty-two, was the centennial anniversary of the 
birth of Washington ! How many manly and patriotic hearts on 
board that gallant ship, were throbbing with fervid emotion, re- 
sponsive to the reflections which naturally suggested themselves ! 
— ** What a glorious day is this, in our own country, where it is 
consecrated by patriotism, and hallowed by the gratitude of millions 
of independent freemen ! What multitudes are now met together, 
indulging in pleasing recollections of the past, and in fond anticipa- 
tions of the future! A century! One hundred years ! What a little 
point in the annals of time ! — what a small space in the age of a 
nation ! What was our country, and what were we as a people one 
hundred years ago ! What changes — ^what eventful vicissitudes 
have we passed through I If true to ourselves, what high des- 
tinies await us I 



t86 TOTAGB OF THS POTOMAC. [Maicb» 

" * O Washington ! dearest and best of our race, 

Thy deeds through the night-cloud of ages shall lighten ; 
Thy name on his banner the soldier shall trace, 
To hallow his death, or his triumph to brighten.* " — Spiaoux. 

** Insulated and distant as we are from our homes and the soul- 
exciting ceremonies and festivities of the day, — with nearly the 
whole diameter of the globe between us-:-still we exult in the 
proud name and privileges of American citizens, and feel that the 
national tie which binds us to that beloved region, strengthens by 
distance. Though antipodes to those of our joyful countrymen 
who are now united in celebrating the birthday of Washington, 
we are with them in heart, and warmly embrace them with the 
arms of affection, gratitude, and patriotism. We pledge them in 
the deep musings of the silent heart ; and between the change of 
watch, and the pressure of a tropical sun, we honour the day as 
well as our nautical duties will permit." 

Such doubtless were the unexpressed feelings of many on this 
interesting occasion ; neither were the brave tars forgotten, on 
whose valour and steadiness the efficacy and glory of our navy 
depend. They were treated by the commodore to an extra ex- 
hilarating draught ; or, in language more technically correct, they 
were all called to " splice the main brace." 

But they were recalled from the pleasing visions of their distant 
homes and national festivities, by the sadder duties incidental to 
their present situation. The sick-list had begun to swell on 
board the Potomac, and now comprised more invalids than it had 
at any former period since she left the United States. Some of 
these new cases were dysentery, — that ruthless scourge of sea- 
men in the East Indies, and brought on, perhaps, in this instance, 
by change of diet, and drinking the river-water of Sumatra ; but 
all things considered, the ship's crew might even then be termed 
very healthy. 

From the last-mentioned date until the first of March, the 
Potomac stood along the outer channel, from the north, almost 
constantly beset by squalls, particularly for the last two or three 
days. But even these changes were acceptable, as they cooled 
the air, and relieved the redundant pulse and throbbing temple. 
On Thursday, the first of March, the wind was again fresh and 
steady, so that the ship was once more throwing the spray and 



168S«] STRAIT OF 8UNDA. 237 

curling' the water under her bows, in the fine style of ten knots 
an hour. In the evening, land was again announced from aloft, 
which proved to be the Island of Engano, the most southerly of 
the large islands on the west side of Sumatra. We lay to 
during the night with the maintopsail to the mast. On the follow- 
ing morning we again made sail, and stood for the Strait of Sunda, 
which has two channels leading into it from the northward : — 
viz., the small channel between the west end of Java and Prince's 
Island, and the great channel to the north of this island, between 
it and the south coast of Sumatra. 

The channel between Prince's Island and Java Head is about 
four miles wide. This island, which is called by the natives 
Pulo Poutaugh, is the largest of any at the mouth of the strait, 
and yet not more than five leagues in extent, lying in latitude 6" 
30' south, and longitude 105"* 10' east. Near its centre are some 
hills of moderate elevation, but near the shores the land is low, 
particularly on the west side, fronting the open sea. The Dutch 
were formerly in the habit of traversing this narrow channel, con- 
sidering it the safer passage of the two. Many ships continue to 
do the same, although the other and wider channel between Prince's 
Island and Crockatoa is most generally frequented. 

At eight o'clock on the morning of Friday, the second of 
' March, Java Head was in sight ; but did not present, as was ex- 
pected, the appearance of a high bluff or promontory, although 
elevated land was seen over it, which may have been often taken for 
Java Head itself. A Uttle to the eastward of it the land is also 
high, with steep cliffs facing the sea. 

Java Head lies in latitude 6" 48' south, and longitude 105' 1 V east, 
and r 41' west from the city of Batavia. The coast of Sumatra, 
in a soft blue mist, was visible on the west, and the strait was ex- 
panding directly ahead, to the northeast. At this moment a wreck 
was reported, which brought all hands on deck. The unfortunate 
stranger could be distinctly seen lying on her beam ends, with 
stump-topmasts extending out horizontally. Even the suffering 
survivors could be distinctly discerned cUnging to the helmless 
hull, and the sympathies of all were quite awakened, as the Poto* 
mac's course was altered to bear down upon it. This amiable 
excitement, however, was but of short duration ; as, on nearing 
thet object of solicitude, h proved to be the trunk of a large pal- 



£88 TOTAOB OF THE POTOllAC. [MtldU^ 

metto-tree, which had loomed so largely that all were astonished 
at the deception. 

A most beautiful and perfectly-defined circle appeared round 
the sun this morning, of a dark cloudy colour, with its edges 
tinged with the brightest yellow and pink. Some say that this 
phenomenon is indicative of a gale. Such an appearance around 
the moon, we believe, is always considered, both by seamen and 
landsmen, as the precursor or premonitory symptom of an im- 
pending storm. Thus Falconer, in his beautiful nautical poem 
of the Shipwreck — (a dreadful disaster, in which the poet himself 
was a participator and one of the few survivers) — describes the 
phenomenon alluded to in the following lines : — 

" The waning moon, behind a watery shrond, 
Pale glimmered o*er the long protracted cloud ; 
A mighty ring around her silver throne, 
With parting meteors crossed, portentous shone ; 
This in the troubled sky full oft prevails, 
Oft deemed a signal of tempestuous gales." 

By noon. Prince's Island was close aboard, and the Island of 
Crockatoa began faintly to pencil its outlines on the distant 
horizon. About four P. M., the wind hauled aft, and directly into 
the strait. The frigate was now standing up the passage, before 
the wind, with yards across, and the breeze fresh, moving at the 
rate of twelve knots, all steering sails set, and the water foaming 
and curling around her bows. The ship's band was playing in a 
lively and animating style. Every officer and man was at his 
post on deck, land was in view on every side, comprising some 
of the most picturesque landscapes in nature. On the left, the 
great Island of Sumatra was expanding her arms as if to meet the 
similar advances of her neighbour Java, while a numerous progeny 
of lovely little islands were smiling between them — the clouds 
above, at the same time, arched with several rainbows, the effect 
of different squalls. In one word, the coup-cTosil of the picture 
was beautiful beyond description ; and though perhaps not equal 
in grandeur and sublimity to the mountain scenery which sur- 
rounds and enriches the view at Rio Janeiro, yet in softness, 
gayety, and mellowness of appearance, it is not inferior to that^ 
or any other in the world. 

Our firigate had now fairly entered this highly interesting pas-^ 



1832.] STRAIT OF 8UNDA. 239 

sage, called the Strait of Sunda, which is formed by the near 
approximation of Java to Sumatra, the western extremity of the 
one approaching to within a few leagues of the southeastern ex- 
tremity of the other. These two extensive, but comparatively 
narrow islands, were probably once united at the point where this 
very passage now exists ; and this supposition is strengthened by 
the fact, that the channel between them is speckled with numer* 
ous little islands of various dimensions. This strait is between 
fifty and sixty miles in length, and varying from twenty to four- 
teen in breadth. The features of the two grand islands are 
presented to the spectator while passing between them, and dis- 
tinguished by the peculiar luxuriance, softness, and amenity of 
their native teints of verdure. On both these great islands, and 
particularly on Sumatra, which forms the western boundary of 
the strait, all is vegetation and verdure — all repose — all silent, 
monotonous, and unvarying ; there is no particular point for the 
eye to rest on. Like the new and virgin isles of the west, when 
first discovered by Columbus, the prospect presents one continued 
extent of soft and luxuriant green — conununicating refreshment 
to the eye, but conveying no cheering sentiment to the heart 
Such to the first man might have been the aspect of the earth 
prior to the formation of his helpmate. It is associated with such 
a cheerless idea of solitude, of loneliness, and of the total ab- 
sence of social affections and intercourse, that one might well 
exclaim with the poet — 

K • • * * Woman— oh woman ! whoM fonn and whose aoul, 
Aro the spell and the light of each path we pursue ; 
Whether sunned in the tropic, or chilled at the pole, 
If woman be there, there is happiness too.** 

On directing the eye to the east side of the strait, the coast of 
Java (particularly the shore of Bantam) presents a different as- 
pect. The forests have been broken in upon by the arts of civili- 
zation, and the intermediate patches of cleared ground exhibit 
evident testimony of the progress of agriculture, imparting variety 
and beauty to the prospect, and teaching the wanderer to feel that 
civilized beings are near him, ready to participate with him in 
those social enjoyments, debarred from which every place if a 
desert. 

The wind had slackened some, but still our well-trinuned vessel 



S40 V0TA.G6 OF THE POTOMAC. [Maich, 



moved on at the rate of eight knots, and every one expected to 

reach Lampoon Bay, which is situated on the Sumatra side of the 

strait, on the folloi^ing day. At ten o'clock, P. M., however, the 

wind had become so light that it was necessary to come to anchor, 

which was done in sixty-two fathoms of water, and about five I 

miles distant from the Island of Crockatoa. At daylight the next 

morning, Saturday, March the third, our ship v^as again got under 

way, and as the wind was dead ahead from the northeast, the 

whole day was employed in beating up towards Lampoon Bay. 

As this process afforded an excellent opportunity for examining 

both sides of the strait, we shall here give a short description of 

that interesting avenue, which leads from the Indian Ocean into 

the China Sea. 

The southwestemmost extremity of Sumatra, which bounds 
the west entrance to the Strait of Sunda on that side, is called 
Flat Point, and is in latitude 104* 40' east, distant about three 
leagues southeast from Fortune Island. Flat Point is a long 
neck of land, jutting out and projecting several leagues from the 
mainland of Sumatra, and forming the southwest side of Key- 
ser^s Bay. The south part of this neck of land is low and woody, 
and its extreme point is sometimes called Tanjong Chinna. 
Vessels have anchored on the east side of this point in seventeen 
fathoms, where they were sheltered from northwest winds, and 
procured a supply of water. 

On proceeding further up the strait, the coast of Sumatra is 
found to be indented by two large bays ; one of which is Keyser's, 
just mentioned, and the other, further north, Lampoon Bay. 
There are also, along this side of the strait, several islands and 
rocks of various dimensions. Keyser's Bay projects into the 
land about five leagues, in a northwesterly direction, and is about 
three leagues wide, having water of various depths, from fifty to 
one hundred fathoms, inside along the western shore, and at the 
upper part, where the anchorage is good, over a muddy bottom. 
The village of Borne stands close to the northwest end of the 
bay, where there are some shoal rivulets. The shores are gen- 
erally low, and the lands marshy near the sea ; but in some places 
thexe are pepper plantations. A little inland from the northwest 
angle of the bay, rises a high conical mountain, called Samanca, 
or Semanco Peak, also Keyser's Peak. There are other moon- 



18SS.) STRAIT OF smiDA. 241 

taint eastward, between tl^s peak and Lampoon Bay, the most 
elevited of which is called Lampoon Peak. These mornitaina 
can be seen a great way at sea in clear weather, by vessels nm- 
ning for the 8trait of Sunda. 

In the middle of the entrance to Keyser's Bay is Tubooan, or 
Keyser's Island, which is high, bold, and safe to approach, thd 
channel on either side being spacious and clear of danger ; but 
the water is deep, and the bottom rocky in some places. On the 
northeast sido of the island, there is anchorage in fifteen or six- 
teen fathoms, sandy bottom, about a mile firom the shore. Near 
the east point there is a salt water creek, six feet deep at the 
entrance, with firesh Water at the head, where a supply may be 
procured. There are some pepper plantations on the island ; and 
at the east end are tall trees, fit for masts. There is an excellent 
harbour, with five, six, and seven fathoms water in it near the east 
point of Keyser's Bay, which may be known by some islets close 
to the entrance, one of them resembling a sugarloaf. 

Lampoon Bay, which the Potomac was now endeavouring to 
reach, is further up the strait, on the same coast, about thirty 
miles firom Flat Point and Keyser's Bay. It is formed between 
Tanjong Tekoos on its west, and Rajah Bassa on its east side ; 
and is not less than twenty miles wide at its entrance, and exp 
tends northward into the land nearly the saifie distance. From 
Tanjong Tekoos, the west point of the bay, a chain of islands 
extends a considerable way to the eastward, having channels be- 
tween some of them, and also between them and the point, with 
soundings from forty to twenty fathoms. Other islands line the 
western shore of the bay inside, between which and the main 
there are several good roads or places of shelter, formed by the 
adjoining islands and shoals, with small villages opposite to them 
on the main. 

The outermost and largest island near the entrance of the bay, 
is called Pulo Lagoondy, and is separated from Tanjong Tekoos 
by a channel about half or three fourths of a mile wide, with 
thirty or forty fathoms water in it, and no soundings outside in 
the entrance, which seems to render it rather intricate for large 
ships, as it is formed by high land, liable to produce eddy winds, 
accompanied at times by strong currents. But with a leading land- 
breeze in the morning, a ship may run out through it with safety. 

Q 



249 voTAOs OF THB voTOMAC. [Maxch, 



On the north side of Pulo Lagoondy is a small bay called 
Naanga Harbour, with the small island of Pulo Patappan in the 
middle of its entrance, on the east side of which is th^ best pas- 
sage into the harbour, by borrowing near the shore of Pulo La- 
goondy. The depths are here from fifteen to ten fathoms, and 
inside the harbour from twelve to seven fathoms, where a ship 
may moor secure from all winds, and careen, if necessary. 

Rajah Bassa Road, situated directly imder the highland called 
Refreshment Head, which form^ the east side of Lampoon Bay, 
is an excellent place for procuring good waler with facility ; to- 
gether with refreshments, such as turtle, fowls, buffaloes, oranges, J 
plantains, &c. But the purchaser must always be on his guard 
against treachery. Large vessels ought not to anchor in less 
than ten fathoms ; for although the soundings decrease regularly 
over a soft bottom to six or seven fathoms in general, yet the 
shore is fronted by a rocky bank, which projects out to five or six 
fathoms in some places, and is also quite steep. 

Rajali Bassa Peak, also called Ejow Peak, is about one thou- 
sand six hundred feet in height. The anchorage of the road op- 
posite is in latitude 5* 5(y south, and it is about seven miles east 
of Crockatoa Peak, or in longitude 106* 32' east. The water 
deepens to twenty-five and twenty-seven fathoms towards the 
Three Brothers, thfee isles which are situated about four miles 
west-by-north from Cocoanut Point, which is the south extremity 
of Rajah Bassa Road. There is a depth of eighteen fathoms in 
the gut between the middle and south Brothers. In coming from 
the eastward, these three islands appear as one, and do not begin 
to open until the vessel approaches Rajah Bassa Road. The 
depths in crossing Lampoon Bay to Pulo Lagoondy are from 
thirteen to nineteen fathoms, regular soundings and good an- 
chorage. 

Cocoanut Point is low, overhung by cocoanut-trees, from 
whence the coast tends easterly, forming a concavity between it 
and Hog Point. The land is rather low near the latter, but rises 
gradually to an elevated peak, about a league eastward of Cocoa- ' 

nut Point. 

The northeastern boundary of the Sunda Strait, on the Suma- 
tra side, is a sharp projection of land, called Tanjong Toca, or 
Hog Point, which is situated about four leagues to the southeast 



\ 



1 



1988.] BTBAIT 0^ HXmjkk. ,243 

€i Lampoon Bay, in latitiKle S** 54' south, longitude IDS'* iSf*9(f 
eiut, or 1'.8' 30" west from Batavia, by chronometer. This point 
forms th« Southeast extremity of Sumatra, and here is the nar- 
rowest part of the strait, , it being only fourteeen miles across 
to Java. 

There is a rock six or seven feet above water, two miles north- 
west from Hog Point, called Collier's Rock, being about fifty feet 
in circuit, and fifty distant firom it lies a coral rock under water. 
These two dangers are about a mile distant firom the shore, with 
fifty or fifty-five fathoms close to them on the outside. There is 
another rock above water bearing south firom Hog Point, distant 
two thirds of a mile, with sixty-five or seventy fathoms outside 
of it, and deep water between it and the point, which is very bold, 
and surrounded by deep water. 

Fronting the Sumatran shore to the northeast of Hog Point, are 
Zutphen Islands, which are sometimes called Hog Islands, and 
sometimes the Hounds. Between them and the main are several 
shoals and islets, with anchorage among them in some places. 
The largest of these islands, and part of the coast adjacent, are 
high land, mostly covered wtth wood ; to Ae southward they are 
very steep, having from forty to fifty fathoms of water very near 
them, where they ought not to be closely approached ; but towards 
the northernmost of the group there are from twenty-three to thirty 
fathoms, and here ships might occasionally anchor, particularly 
off the north end of this island, which lies in latitude 6" 50' 
south. A river empties its waters near this place, and about a 
mile and a half from its mouth stands a village called Tangrea, 
with rice-fields around it, cattle, poultry, and plenty of cocoanuts. 
But the natives are not to be trusted. 

Having thus taken a brief look at the Sumatran shore on the 
northwest side of the Strait of Sunda, we riow beg the reader to 
accompany us " on the other tack," and take a peep at the Java 
coast, which lines the southeast side of the same strait. 

We have already stated that there are two channels to enter the 
Strait of Sunda from the Indian Ocean, one between Java Head 
and Prince's Island, ^nd the other outside of Prince's Island, the 
latter being the one selected by the Potomac. The channel betieeen 
this island and the shores of Java is about four miles broad. It 
is called Prince's Strait, and sometimes the Behouden, or Safe Pas- 

q2 



244 • voTAas of ths potomac. piCaich, ] 

sage of the Dutch. It is not so much frequented as the other, 
but is always adopted if a ship intends to water at Mew Bay , which 
is more convenient for that purpose than Prince's Island. 

Java Head, which bounds the southwestern entrance to the 
Strait of Sunda on the Java side, is a projection of land, not 
pointed, but about twelve miles wide at its extremity. It is 
generally high and steep, projecting a little in the middle. 

About six miles north of Java Head is a projection of land 
known by the name of " First Point of Java," otherwise called 
Tanjong Jungkulan ; and this is the south point of the entrance 
of Prince's Strait. It is easily known by a remarkable rock off 
it, called the Friar, which lies nearly southeast-by-south, about 
five miles from the Carpenters, which bound the other side of 
Prince's Strait. The First Point is in latitude 6' 44' south, about 
two leagues north of the Head, and the coast between them, 
which forms a bight, is fironted by high rocks, in some places 
stretching out about a mile. On these rocks, as also on the Friar 
and Carpenters, the sea beats high during westerly winds or in 
bad weather. Ships proceeding through Prince's Strait during 
the northwest monsoon, should keef» near to Prince's Island and 
ihe Carpenters, particularly in working out against westerly 
winds ; for a current will then generally be found setting out in 
their favour. During the other monsoon, when winds prevail 
from the southeast and south, vessels ought to keep nearest to the 
Java shore and the Friar ; which rock may be approached within 
one or two cables' length. 

About a league northeast of First Point is Mew Island, situ- 
ated in a bay of the same name. This island, which is also some- 
times called CantcB, lies in latitude 6"* 43' south, and is small and 
hilly, abounding with wood. Between it and First Point there is an 
islet near the Java shore, and regular soundings over a sandy 
bottom are found to stretch along the side of Prince's Strait. 
There is a safe but narrow channel between Mew Island and 
Java, with various soundings from five to eight and ten fathoms, 
in mid-channel, over a sandy bottom, where a ship may lie land- 
locked, sheltered from all winds. 

Second Point, or Tanjong Along-along, is in about latitude 6' | 

36' south, and three leagues to the northeast of Mew Island. It 
may be approached to fifteen or sixteen fathoms, about one and a 



1832.] 8TEAIT OF SUNDA. 245 

half or two miles distant. On the tast side of the point .lies 
Welcome Bay, extending a great way into the land, and containing 
several iflels and shoals, particularly on the west side. ^ The 
eastern sidlb is more clear, with good shelter in the southeast mon- 
soon ; but in the westerly monsoon this bay ought to be avoided. 

Third Point, or Tanjong Lussong, is in latitude 6° 27' south, 
separating Welcome Bay from Pepper Bay, the latter being situ- 
ated on the east side of this point, and it bears nearly northeast^ 
by-east-half-east, five or six leagues firom Second Point. To the 
eastward of the point there is an islet inside of Pepper Bay, with a 
shoal to the northwest, rendering the approach to it dangerous, 
which is the case throughout Pepper Bay, the water being generally 
shoal. When a ship is abreast of Third Point, about a league 
distant, a small island is seen at the northeast part of Pepper 
Bay, bearing about east^by-north, but will then be confounded 
with the contiguous coast. If intending to touch there, it will be 
prudent to steer across the bay, keeping the island on the star- 
board bow, and not borrow towards the shoal water near the Java 
shore. This little island is called Seriguy, or Paulo Papapale. 

Fourth Point, or Tanjong Cicorang, is situated about four and a 
half leagues north-by-east from Seriguy. This point is low to sea^ 
ward ; and most of the coast between it and Welcome Bay is 
low, interspersed with hills in some places, and aboimding with 
cocoanuts. On coasting along between Seriguy and Fourth 
Point, a ship should keep a league or more from the shore, in 
soundings from twenty to thirty fathoms, in order that she may 
be enabled to come to anchor, if calms and contrary currents 
should render it necessary. If a ship, having entered Prince's 
Strait, be abreast of Second Point, ^she ought to steer a direct 
course for Fourth Point, bearing nearly northeast from the former, 
distant about thirteen leagues ; or, having entered by the great 
channel to the north of Prince's Island, she should run for the 
same point if she intend to stop at Anger Road, or is bound to 
Batavia, — ^for it will be prudent to keep near the Java coast during 
the monthly monsoon, and to pass between it and Thwart-the- 
Way, whether bound to Batavia or Banca Strait. From Second 
Point to Fourth Point there is generally good ground for anchor- 
ing, occasionally in eighteen to twenty fathoms. 

Anger, or Angere Village, is in latitude 6* 3' 30" south, longitude 



246 VOTAOB* OF THE POTOMAC. [tfircby' 

105" 54' east, about two leagues eastward of Fourth Point It is not 
easily perceived in coming from the westward, being situated in a 
bay where the houses or huts are scattered among the cocoaaut-trees, 
and nearly obscured by them, and by an elevated chain of inland 
hills. The most easterly of these is a sharp-peaked hill, called 
Anger Peak, directly over the village. Ships frequently touch at 
this place in the southerly monsoon, to procute refreshments; 
but the road is not considered safe or convenient in the opposite 
season, for it is then dangerous landing, on account of the high 
surf. Here may be procured buffaloes, hogs, poultry, vegetables, 
and sometimes turtle. The common anchorage is in Anger Road, 
In from nine to fourteen fathoms, abreast of the village, and water 
may be had by employing boats for that purpose. 

John Barrow, Esq., who was here with the English embassy to 
Cochin China in February, 1793, very warmly recommends 
this place, in preference to any other in the strait, for procuring 
water and refreshments. After mentioning the low prices at 
which they procured fowls, capons, and buffadoes, he adds — " The 
natives usually come off in their canoes, to ships which may 
anchor here, with plentiful supplies of the fruits peculiar to the 
island, and other vegetables that may be in season. The air is 
dry and pleasant ; and a cool refreshing breeze descends from the 
high lands of Java, spreading its fragrance to a distance much 
beyond the anchorage of the ships. Yet because this side of the 
strait is occasionally subject to calms, which may sometimes have 
caused the delay of two or three days at the utmost, few of the 
outward-bound China ships touch at Anjeriel preferring to take 
in a fresh supply of wood and water at North Island, or rather on 
the Sumatra shore opposite to this island, where only wood and 
water are procurable, and where pumbers of seamen yearly fall 
a sacrifice, either to Malay treachery, from the plunderers who are 
always lurking among the forests on this part of the coast, or to 
the unhealthiness of the place, occasioned by the heavy nightly 
fogs that hang over this low marshy shore, and the noxious vapours 
arising from the putrefactive fermentation of vegetable matter ; 
an operation which, in this region of the world, is incessantly 
carrying on." These observations were made many years ago ; 
and whether they be applicable now, we are not prepared to 
say, as the Potomac did not touch on either side to procure 



I 

\ 



1882.] STRAIT OF SUNDA. 247 

refiredbments. We hope, howeyer, to be excused for making 
another short extract from this close observer and elegant writer. 

'' Of the many little islands scattered over the sur&ce of the 
strait we visited only two, that are situated at no great distance 
from the shore of Java. They are known to seamen by the 
names of the Cap and the Button, In a deep cavern, woriied by 
the sea into the side of the former, we disturbed such a multitude 
of bats and swallows, that we were literally driven back by the 
successive volleys in which they assailed us. The bats, in par- 
ticular, were excessively troublesome, by flying entirely at ran- 
dom, owing to their imperfect vision on encountering the light at 
the mouth of the cave. The swallows were of that species which, 
in the Sy sterna NaturtB^ is called esculenta^ from the abundant use 
made of their nests in Chinese cookery. We found some thou- 
sands of these nedts attached to the sides of the cavern, some 
containing young birds, and others eggs. The nests were of an 
oval shape, slightly joined to each other at the extremities of the 
longest diameter. Their external coating appeared to be the 
filaments of some species of seaweed, cemented together by a 
viscous substance, which was collected probably on the seashore ; 
stripped of this coating, they were about the eighth of an inch in 
thickness, had much the appearance of a piece of hard glue, 
setni-transparent, and evidently composed of the same kind of 
gelatinous matter which kept together the interior fibres, and 
with which the stones and marine plants on the shores of the 
island were covered. On the Button Island we shot an inguana^ 
which measured four feet in length, and the flesh of which, when 
roasted, was as white and delicate as that of a chickea." 

Cap and Button Islands are about six miles from each other. 
The first is called by the Malays Pulo Oolar, or Snake Island, 
which bears north-northeast from Anger village, distant about 
four or five miles, and nearly east-southeast from the south part 
of Thwart-the-Way, between which and the Cap is the channel, 
having various depths of water, from twenty to fifty fathoms, over 
an uneven and generally rocky bottom. The Button, or Great 
Cap, as it is sometimes called, is situated in latitude 5*" 53' south, 
and two leagues north from the Small Cap, of similar appear- 
ance, but larger and higher, steep, and covered with small trees. 

Seven miles east-by-north from the Button is Bantam, or St 



248 VOYAGE OF THS POTOMAC. [MaidL I 

Nicholas's Point, in latitude 5" 52^ south, longitude lOa** 2f east, or 
fifty miles west from Batavia by chronometer. It is a high, bold 
headland, and on each side of it, close to the shore, are some 
small islands. The soundings of this part of the coast are gen- 
erally regular, and ships may anchor in some places in twenty 
fEithoms, clay or sand, about two or three miles from the point. 
The coast is liigh between St. Nicholas or Bantam Point, with 
indifferent anchorage in the channel, until the latter is approached. 
This point is the northern boundary of the Strait of Sunda. 

On Saturday, the third of March, as before mentioned, the 
Potomac was beating up the strait, against a head wind and op- 
posing current. She passed Crockatoa Island on its eastern side, 
enjoying a beautiful prospect of the Java shore. This island, 
which is about six or seven miles in length, and four or five in 
breadth, extending nearly northwest and southeast, is elevated 
and imposing in its appearance, steep on the south side, but 
sloping gradually to the water's edge on the north. and western 
sides. Although every one had been enraptured with the scenery 
on the preceding day, all were still more deUghted with the pros- 
pect which presented itself on Saturday evening, about sunset, 
which was far more soft, rich, and lovely, than any which had yet 
been seen in these waters. The atmosphere was now clear and 
transparent, while numerous high, various, and fancifiilly-shaped 
peaks, tinged by the setting sun, whose parting beams were fading 
away on the richest vegetation, displayed a landscape not to be 
equalled by the pencil of art. 

A new-invented apparatus was this day completed and put in 
successful operation, for pumping the foul air from the hold of 
the ship. It is a very ingenious contrivance of Lieutenant B. 
Wilson, and perfectly answers the purpose for which it was in- 
tended. But little headway was made by the Potomac this day, 
owing to the lightness of the wind, and an opposing current, which 
set about west by south, at the rate of two miles an hour ; and 
the frigate was again compelled to come to anchor. The tides 
in this strait seemed to be so much influenced by the wind as to 
resemble currents. 

The whole of the following day, which was Sunday, the fourth, 
was exhausted in a vain attempt to beat up to the frigate's an- 
chorage in Lampoon Bay. Not being able, however, to stem the 



1882.] STRAIT OF BVKWl. 249 

cuirent with a light northeast wind, she at last came to an anchor 
in a bight formed by a low flat island and Crockatoa, about a 
league distant from them. 

The frigate did not leave her anchorage on Monday, the fifth, 
as there was no prospect of making any headway. ' A boat was 
lowered, however, and several officers went to try their luck in 
fishing, but were not rewarded with any very flattering success. 
They afterward attempted to land, but found it very difficult, as 
the whole island was surrounded by a coral rock. They at length 
reached the shore on a small sandy beach, where they procured 
some shells; but the jungle was so thick that they could not 
penetrate twenty yards from the water's edge. Birds of ex- 
quisitely rich pliunage were seen in great numbers ; and on firing 
a gun, the growling of tigers was thought to be heard but a short 
distance from the party. The weather was pleasant on the 
frigate's deck, while over the shores the clouds hung low, and the 
rain fell in copious showers. 

The wind blowing firesh and fair on Tuesday morning, March 
the sixth, the Potomac once more weighed anchor, and *' spread- 
ing her bellying canvass" to its impulse, stood to the northeast, 
passing Lampoon Bay at about ten o'clock, with a fine leading 
breeze, which came up the strait, and wafted her onward at the 
rate of nine miles per hour. She soon came up with and passed 
Thwart-the-Way, an island which the Malays call Pulo Renyang, 
lying in the nearest part of the strait, but somewhat nearer to 
Hog Point on its western side than to the Java shore. This 
island is moderately elevated, and about four miles in extent. 
Not far from this island, near the Java shore, are the Cap and 
Button before mentioned. 

As the frigate moved gracefully along the shores of Bantam, 
the western aspect of Java, as far as the eye could reach, opened 
on the view with a richness beyond conception, the land stretch- 
ing in the distance in alternate hills and valleys, clothed with 
luxuriant and variegated verdure. Numerous hamlets, surrounded 
by shadowing groves, appeared scattered over the undulating sur- 
face ; while tangled vines and creepers, laving their tendrils in 
the crystal stream, added new charms to the exhilarating picture. 
The hand of man had been here — of civilized, social man. The 
features of the country proclaimed the fact-— <iivided into square 



€60 TOTAOB OF THS POTOMAC. [Maichi 

fields, and neatly hedged around. At length, after sailing along 
this coast for some time with a smart breeze, the fhgate emerged 
from the strait, doubled Bantam Point, and came to anchor on its 
eastern side, about two miles from the shore, and not far from 
Bantam Bay, where she anchored on the day following, about two 
and a half leagues southeast from St. Nicholas or Bantam Point. 

Bantam Bay is extensive, containing several islands, the largest 
of which is Pulo Panjang, covered with trees, and situated in the 
west part of the entrance. A ship intending to anchor here may 
pass on either side of this island ; but the eastern channel is 
greatly to be preferred. On the following day, the vessel's birth 
was changed for Pangoriang, as being a convenient place to obtain 
a supply of fresh water, and only four miles east of Point St. 
Nicholas. The anchorage in this spot is in fourteen to sixteen 
fathoms, and was much frequented by the English vessels during 
the short period that Batavia was in their possession. There is a 
passage of four fathoms within two small islands called Pulo 
Kaly, and safe anchorage for small vessels. These islands lie 
about half way between Pangoriang and the red bluff which forms 
the extreme west side of Bantam Bay, which the reader will bear 
in mind is situated on the north side of Java, a few miles east of 
the strait. 

Here the surrounding scenery continued to be an inexhaustible 
source of enjoyment, in its endless variety of features, and the 
mingled softness and brilliancy which enriched its ever-varying 
hues. The land of Java, as it recedes from the shore, gently 
ascends with a billowy, undulating surface of hill and dale, to the 
distance of about a mile, all divided into fields, and cultivated to 
the hill-tops. Towering its foliage-crested head proudly above 
the rest, rises Bantam Hill, cultivated like the humbler eminences 
around it, with the exception of its summit, which is surmounted 
with a coroftet of majestic trees, li^e a forest in the air. Between 
the foot of the hill and the shore are human habitations, almost 
entirely hid in k grove of cocoanut, plantain, and banana- trees, 
which are also scattered in clumps over all the landscape. The 
fields of rice and gardens of pepper vines which climb the hill- 
sides or checker the flats and bottoms, present the changing aspects 
of the young and green blade, just sprouting through the varie- 
gated soil, to the yellow and matured crop, ready for the hands 



1832.] BANTAM BAT. 261 

of the gatherer, "while the borders of the beach were lined and 
fringed with bamboos and shrubbery to the water's edge. 

On the following morning, which was Thursday, the eighth, some 
of our boats visited a couple of islands to look for curious shells, 
in which pursuit they were quite successful, bringing off with 
them a large and well-assorted collection. During the whole 
day the frigate was only visited from the shore by one canoe, 
which only brought*off a few fish of an indifferent quality. The 
natives seemed to feel, and they certainly evinced, but Uttle cu- 
riosity on account of the Potomac's first appearance on their 
coast; but rather seemed disposed to keep aloof from holding 
any intercourse with their strange visiters. 

The tow^ of Bantam, which was formerly the capital of the 
kingdom and the seat of royalty, is situated on the bank of a 
small river which empties into the bay. The EngUsh and Danes 
had factories here until 1662, when they were expelled by the 
Dutch, who deposed the native monarch, erected two forts to 
defend it against any subsequent intruder, and soon monopolized 
the entire traffic of the country. It was then populous and flour- 
ishing — it is now a poor place, and its commerce is transferred to 
Batavia. It is in latitudef 6" 20' south, longitude lOS** 26' east. 

An officer of the frigate was sent next day to wait on the 
rajah, and to inquire if a supply of wood and water could be fur- 
nished for the ship. The chief not only willingly acceded to this 
request, but treated the messenger and his companions with great 
politeness, and even kindness. On the same day the boats were 
hoisted out, and this service was commenced under the charge of 
proper officers. Wood of a good quality and in great abundance 
was easily procured on the beach, and the carpenters were all set 
to work at cutting it up, ready for passing it on board ; while 
another party was successfully occupied in procuring water from 
some of the numerous little streams which came tumbling down 
the sides of the hills to the water's edge, rendering the operation 
convenient and easy by the application of a hose. While this 
was going on, the officers embraced every opportunity to extend 
their perambulations, and observe whatever was interesting, for 
some distance in the interior. 

From fifty to one hundred yards from the beach, the soil was 
thickly covered with underbrush and trees of varioiiB kinds* Be- 



892 TOTAGs OF THs POTOMAC. [March» 

yond this, for about the distance of a mile, there was nothing but 
rice-fields, accommodated to the rising ground, surrounded and 
intersected by numerous httle canals, adapted to the purpose of 
irrigation, as the different stages of the crops required. The rice 
looked well, some of it being nearly matured, and other portions 
just springing from the soil. Beyond the lowland rice^fields the 
land began to swell into hills, the sides of which were partially 
covered with fine groves of cocoanut-tree9. Numerous paths 
were seen leading back from the shore, each of which terminated 
in a small Malay village, built of bamboos, and containing from 
fifty to two hundred inhabitants. The huts were miserably ccm- 
structed, each containing two or three sleeping apartments, and a 
substitute for a )utchen, in one comer of which were the fire and 
some cooking utensils, but no chimney, the smoke being allowed 
to escape as it could through the loose texture of the bamboos, 
imparting to the whole estabUshment a sooty and filthy appear- 
ance. It will be seen, in the sequel, that there is a striking 
difference between the Malays and the Javans, who are cleanly, 
neat, and industrious. 

The Malays in the villages, if they did not actually resent 
their intrusion, were evidently not very highly delighted with our 
officers' visits; and all the women immediately deserted their 
houses on the appearance of the strangers. When welcomed by 
woman, '^ dear woman, the manifested form of love and hospi- 
tahty," the wanderer is ever perfectly at home ; but if her cheering 
smile be lacking, he feels too sensibly that he is an intruder in- 
deed ! The features of these people are by no means displeasing 
in the young, but extremely so in those who are far advanced in 
life. Their complexion is a yellowish brown, with black hair, 
some of which is of the finest texture; their eyes are black, 
quick, and penetrating. Their teeth are regular, well set, and 
carefully filed, but generally black, from the nauseous habit of 
chewing the betele-nut, as in Sumatra. 

Their dress, in the villages above alluded to, consisted of the 
coarsest materials, and was quite indifferent ; and in no respect are 
these Malays to be compared in appearance with those of Su- 
matra. The children were entirely naked ; and the men carried 
no arms, nor did they appear to be in possession of any, except 
a large curved knife, for cutting rice and }>amboos, trinuning 



188S.]- BANTAM BAT. 253 

cocoanut-trees, and such other uses as are required in their hus- 
bandry. This implement in several instances was suspended 
from the neck, hanging down the back ; in others, guarded by a 
sheath, and attached to a belt. But though behind their neigh- 
bours of Sumatra in personal appearance, they are certainly 
superior to them in temper and character ; being more mild and 
honest, and far less savage, yindictive, and treacherous in their dis- 
positions. They seemed rather inclined to be courteous and 
amiablci; and where they did form attachments for any of our 
officers, evinced no little degree of liberality. 

But industry is not one of their virtues ; for no people can be 
more las^, if general report be true, than the Malays* of Bantam* 
This trait in their character is doubtless the result of local cir- 
cumstances. . The climate and soil itself may tend to produce it, 
as there is little inducement to labour where all the necessaries 
of life kre spontaneously produced. All their movements are 
slow, and they appeared to our officers to be incapable of deep 
emotion or great excitement of any kind, either of curiosity, fear,, 
or revenge. Nominally Mahommedans, they yet appear to pay 
very Uttle attention to the rites and ceremonies of that persuasion^ 
or indeed of any other, being probably infidels at heart, and giving 
themselves no concern whatever on the subject of religion, or a 
future state of existence. They resemble the Turks in an aver- 
sion to have their women exposed to the view of strangers. Few 
of them were ever to be seen during the period of the Potomac'^ 
visit, and those few were dressed very similar to the men, and 
were not much better looking, excepting that their complexion was* 
somewhat lighter. 

Though shrinking from exertion on ordinary occasions, some 
of them have, taken considerable pains to perform good officer 
and acts of courtesy to such of our ship's company 4ts they hap» 
pened to take a fancy to. While on shore with his fowling- 
piece, one of the officers was met by a native who appeared to* 
take great pleasure in showing him the birds, and who was anx- 
ious to have him shoot them. He also climbed a cocoanut-tree^ 
more than fifty feet in height, and procured a nut for him, the milk of 
which is very refreshing in so warm a climate, being only six de- 
grees south of the equator. This polite and attentive native adhered 
to the side of his new acquaintance while passing through the 



254 TOTAOS OF THs POTOMAC. [Marchi 

villages, talking and chatting all the time, and assiduously direct- 
ing the attention of his visiter to whatever he thought would be 
deemed worthy of notice. He finally accompanied the officer to 
the water's edge, lingering and delaying his departure to the last 
moment. All this friendly attention was voluntarily bestowed, 
apparently without any interested motive or expectation of re- 
ward, as he appeared to experience unanticipated pleasure on re- ' 
ceiving a few toys in requital for his kindness. They all appear 
very fond of trinkets, though possessing very few. 

At our watering-place on shore, and also on board the ship, we 
were daily visited by small parties from the neighbouring villages, 
with fruits and other articles for sale or barter. In exchange diey 
received knives, handkerchiefs, and naval buttons ; some of our 
middies stripping their jackets to buy cocoanuts, chickens, and 
other palatable productions. These natives seem to have some, 
though very imperfect, knowledge of the value of money. If 
one of them with half a dozen fowls was asked the price of the 
lot, his reply was, invariably, " dollar," and precisely the same 
answer would be made by another with a lot of double the num- 
ber. Though very shy at first, their boats were now almost con- 
stantly alongside the frigate, with every kind of refreshment that 
this part of the island could furnish. 

Independent of a great variety of fruits and vegetables, they 
have the fiesh of buffaloes, goats, and sheep ; pork of course is 
forbidden in the Mahommedan code. Their buffaloes are large 
and fat, and are kept tied by small cords, passed through a per- 
foration made between the animals' nostrils. They are tame and 
docile to the natives, but wild and restiff whenever any of our 
countrymen approached them. 

The canoes of the natives are constructed of a single piece 
of timber, the trunk of a large tree, cut or burned out, and ele- 
vated at the head and stem. The mast, yard, and paddles are 
made of bamboo, and the sail of matting ; they will carry two or 
three, and sometimes four persons. They have also lar^ boats, 
or proaSy some of which were daily seen passing along the coast, 
probably from Bantam, filled with Malays, and bearing the Dutch 
flag. 

On Tuesday, the thirteenth of March, not having yet completed 
her supply of wood and water, the Potomac still lay at her an- 



1838.J BANTAM BAT. SM 

chorage in Bantam Bay. At five o'clock in the morning the com« 
modore, accompanied by an officer, left the frigate on a boat-ex- 
cursion to a small island about four leagues distant, in search of 
shells, with which the waters and shores of these islands abound. 
Indeed, conchology appeared to be the favourite study of all the 
officers when off duty ; and the commodore, ever since his ar- 
rival in the eastern Archipelago, had evinced much interest, taste, 
and industry, in adding to his already valuable collection. 

In the afternoon a smart little squall occurred, which termi- 
nated in a breeze so fresh that it was found necessary to give the . 
ship more cable. As night set in, there was no appearance of the 
commodore's boat returning to the vessel, which occasioned much 
solicitude on board on acconnt of his safety. The squall had 
been sudden and severe, and it was feared that his boat had been 
capsized, or that some other accident had befallen him. Rockets 
were let off, and blue-lights burned during the whole night, to 
point out the situation of the ship. 

It appears, that after having landed and been successful in pro- 
curing some rare and beautiful specimens of conchology on the 
Island of Pulo Baby, the commodore left, at about five o'clock in 
the evening, with the view of returning on board the frigate ; but 
had not proceeded far, when he found that there was not only a 
strong current, but a fresh wind directly against him : so much 
so, that in three hours of hard pulling, not more than two miles 
of headway had been made. At this time, a squall struck the 
boat with such violence, that it was found impossible to keep 
her head to the wind by the utmost exertions of the men tugging 
at their oars ; and in falling off she was several times on the point 
of being swamped, and was, with the utmost difficulty, kept afloat. 
Fortunately, the squall subsided in less than half an hour, though 
the wind still continued fresh, with an ugly, sharp sea, so that it 
was still impossible to pull to windward. 

The commodore's situation now became exceedingly uncom- 
fortable ; exposed as he was in an open boat to the rain, which 
fell in torrents, in a climate where such exposure is deemed fatal 
to4he unclimaied stranger. A return to the Island of Pulo Baby 
seemed to offer no safety, as the ocean, broken by the numerous 
rocks and coral reefs surrounding the island, was now white with 
ft)am. Sail was then made on the boat, in the hope oi being able 



256 VOYAGE OF THE POTOMAC. [Mfticllf 

to weather the reef, which makes out about five miles north from 
the cape, forming the east side of Bantam Bay, and, if possible, 
find shelter under the lee of some of the small islands lying in 
that direction. The run across the bay was one of fearful un- 
certainty ; the land was hid from view by the rain and thick wea- 
ther, so that the boat, close-hauled on the wind, was the only guide. 

Thus he continued for seyeral hours, relieving the boat by 
bailing, as she took in water. At length, land was seen ; and a 
moment after, the breakers on it, by which the commodore knew 
that he had either gone to windward, or fallen sufficiently to 
leeward to escape the extensive and dangerous reef. About one 
o'clock in the morning, the land seen turned out to be a small 
island, the lee of which furnished a neat little bay, into wl>ich the 
boat was run, and, greatly to his relief, he found her completely 
protected from the storm, though the rain still continued to fall in 
drenching showers. At seven in the morning he left the little 
harbour, which the boat's crew insisted upon calling " Ariel Bay,** 
after their boat, which had behaved so, well the night before. 
About nine he returned on board the frigate, greatly exhausted 
from fatigue, having been wet to the skin for more than twelve 
hours ; from which, and even sleeping a short time in the boat, he 
fortunately suffered no bad effects. 

On Friday, the sixteenth, the Potomac still remained at her 
anchorage near the watering-place. Although the wind was this 
day very strong fronx the south and south-by-east, which some- 
times increased into powerful puffs, yet so strong was the current, 
that the ship at no time rode by the wind. The natives this day 
continued to visit the ship for traffic, and in greater niunbers than 
on any former occasion ; bringing such supplies, and selling so 
reasonable, that the finest poultry was to be seen on the tables of 
all the messes. No buffaloes, however, were procured, though 
no doubt such an arrangement might have easily been made, as 
all the villages abound with them. Numerous monkeys, procured 
by the sailors, were now on board, affording great diversion to all 
hands by their endless chatter and amusing antics. 

News came on board this day, from some of the natives, that 
there was a pirate in the strait, and that two Dutch men-of-war 
were in pursuit of her. The subsequent report of distant cannon 
rendered the rumour quite probable. 



1880.] BANTAM BAT. 867 

On Sunday, the eighteenth, there was a little improvement in 
the weather, which for the two preceding days had presented little 
else than a succession of squalls, attended with considerable rain, 
thunder, and hghtning, while the height of the surf on the shore 
had much retarded the progress of procuring a supply of water. 
But little rain, however, had fallen near the anchorage of the 
frigate, as the clouds appeared to be attracted by the lofty summits 
and peaks of the neighbouring mountains* In the meantime, our 
officers had been much on shore, and seen considerable of the 
natives, visited the villages, and rambled over an interesting seo 
tion of the ancient kingdom of Bantam.- It was easy to perceive 
that the Dutch had much power over the natives, and exercised 
it with no little rigour. No inducemients are held out to encourage 
their advance in knowledge, refinement, and the arts of civilized 
life ; but they appear to be kept in such a state of servile degra^ 
dation, that they still remain almost as wild and uncultivated as 
they did before the island was first visited by Eiuropeans. They 
are slaves to their own rajahs, who are^ in their turn, slaves to the 
Dutch colonists. 

The town of Bantam, at the head of the bay, would perhaps 
have afforded good anchorage for the frigate, had not the com- 
modore preferred to remain in an opeli position, in order that he 
might more readily get imder way in case of a typhoon.* In 

* Typhoon, from the Chinese word Ty-foong, si^fying great wind. Ty, is gteat 
or mighty, and Foong, signifies wind. They are dangerous tempests which often 
happen at the equinox, in the northern part of the China Sea, near Formosa, Baahee 
Islands, also the north of Luconia, and sometimes between Formosa and the Japatf 
Archipelago. They are liable to happen in either monsoon. September is a month 
much dreaded by sailors in these seas, particularly if the change or perigee of the 
moon coincide with the equinox. \ 

To be able to prognosticate the approach of these winds would be yeiy favourable' 
to nftrigators, but this cannot be done with certainty, for they frequently commence' 
without giving much evidence of their proximity. The clouds' having a red aspect i^ 
not a certain warning of the approach of a typhoon ; for at the rising, but more par- 
ticularly at the setting of the sun, the clouds, in settled weather, are sometimes tinged 
with a red colour, by the reflected light, especially those opposite the luminary. A 
hazy atmosphere, preventing land from being seen at a great distance,- is no unfavomv 
able sign on the coast of China, for this is generally its state in medium or unsettled 
weather. Neither is an irregular swell a good criterion to judge of the approach of a 
typhoon ; for, near the coast of China, a cross swell frequently prevails during steady^ 
settled weather. A serene sky, with the horizon remarkably clear, should not be 
considered as an indication of a continuation of favourable weather ; for a aeries of 

R 



S66 YOTAGV OF THE POTOMAC. [March« 

iddition to this, it was requisite to lie in a situation where were ^ 

greater facilities for taking in wood and water than the town could 
afford, and a more favourable spot for that purpose than the one 
selected could hardly be desired. At any rate, it was decidedly 
preferable to Batavia, where such duty must have greatly exposed 
both officers and men to the baleful effects of insalubrious exha- 
lations which surround the Dutch capital ; besides the gratificatiom 
deriyed from an opportunity of seeing so much of this out-of-the- 
way portion of the island. It -is even doubtful whether the water 
in the vicinity of Batavia be wholesome for a ship^s use. Mr. 
Barrow, before quoted, says, that " a glass of water taken out of 
the canal of Batavia, becomes, in the course of a few hours, a 
mass of animated matter, the minute portions of which, multiply- 
ing by division and subdivision, move about with astonishing 
rapidity. The bay (of Batavia), swarming with myriads of 
living creatures, exhibits, in the night-time, a phosphorescent light 
Uke a sheet of fire. The stream of fresh water which falls into 
it, being more highly charged with animal Ufe, is distinctly trac^ 
in the bay, by a train more luminous and brilliant than the rest of 
the surface, appearing like another milky-way in the midst of a 
firmament of stars." 

Having now completed her supply of wood and witer, the Po^ 
tomac got under way on the morning of Monday, the nineteenth, 
and shaped her course for Batavia Roads, a distance of more than 
twenty leagues east from her recent anchorage. This was a pas- 
sage of unusual beauty and interest, the surface of the sea being 
thickly studded with little evergreen islands, of almost every 
shape and variety. The indolent Dutch colonists, despairing of 
ever furnishing a name for each, have lumped the whole group, 
and given it the name of the Thousand Islands. The French 
did the same at the head of the St. Lawrence. The sea here, 

i&ne weather and calms, faTOuring an increase of heat above the mean temperatm-e, 
is liable to be succeeded by a typhoon. 

When the horizon is very clear in some parts, and the summits of the hills or 
islands obscured by dense black clouds, there is some irregularity in the atmosphere, 
and stormy weather may be apprehended ; but in reality typhoons are seldom pre- 
ceded by any certain sign or indication. Marine barometers, if well constructed, 
seem to afford the best means to anticipate these tempests ; for the mercury is 
sometimes liable to a greater fall on the south coast of China, than might be expected 
within the tropics. 



1 



183SL] APPROACH BATATIA. 259 

on the northern coast of Java, when cahn and unruffled, resem- 
bles a sheet of silver on which have been promiscuously scattered 
emeralds of different sizes, every one of these numerous islets 
being completely clothed with an eyer-yar)ring teint of the liveliest 
verdure. They are all based on a calcareous foundation, and owe 
their origin to the zoophites of Linnaeus. The weather was 
pleasant, and moderate breezes from the north and west wafted 
the frigate gently along her sinuous course among the Thousand 
Islands ; around which w^e dangerous shoals, which rendered it 
necessary to keep a boat out ahead, feeling the way for the frigate. 
The lead was kept going in from fifteen to twenty-two fathoms. 
At three P. M., took in the royals and hauled up the foresail. 
The coast of Java, from Bantam Mountain to Batavia, is flat and 
low ; and though ever changing, ever new, and eve? beautiful, ex-^ 
bibits few of those remarkable outlines which form points of re-' 
membrance, until the frigate approached Lampoon Island ; a small 
and solitary spot, but beautiful in its solitude, near which she 
anchored about sunset, in fifteen fathoms, and veered out forty- 
five fathoms of chain cable. Several villages were now seen 
lining the shore, and paddee fields extending as far as the eye' 
could reachj all gilded by the oblique rays of the setting tsuA* 

The passage selected by the conunodore in approaching the 
anchorage was not the one generally adopted. When Maneater 
Island bore southeast-by-east, instead of pursuing the track north, 
between the Great Cambuys and Angenilla, he bore off more to 
the south, and ran between the former and Maneater Island, pas- 
sing within half a mile of Little Cambuys, and discovering a 
shoal southeast of it, not laid down or noted in any of the most 
recent charts. Soundings vary in the passage from a quarter less 
nine to eleven fathoms. He then ran for the Isl^ind Dapour, 
soundings thirteen fathoms. At seven P. M., shortened sail and 
came to anchor as before stated, with Dapour Island bearing north- 
west-half-north ; Amsterdam Island, southwest-by-west, and Edam 
Island, east-by-south-quarter-south. 

The weather c(mtipued pleasant throughout the night, with gentle 
breezes from the north and west. On 'Tuesday morning, the 
twentieth, at five A. M.> just as the call of " All hands, up an- 
chor !" resounded through the ship, a report was made that one of 
the seamen had just departed this Ufe,^ so that the order to get 

r2 



MO VOTAGS OF TRS POTOMAC. [MaTChy 



imderway was countennaiided. At nine o^clock the body of the 
deceased was committed to the deep, with the uijaal religious 
ceremonies. It was a source of deep regret to all, and of gloomy 
forebodings to some, thus to lose one of our best men at t^ time, 
and in such a place, by a disease which has often been so fatal in 
this part of the world ; though thus fax we had certainly been 
more healthy dian has often fallen to the ](A of many ships' crews 
of equal numbers. 

Inmiediately after the performance of this melancholy duty, 
ihe frigate was again got under way, with a fine breeze, and stood 
for Batavia Roads. At eleven she once more came to anchcnr, 
about seyen miles from the city, outside of all the shipping, in 
nine and a half fathoms of water, and veered out forty-five fathoms 
of chain cable ; Batavia bearing south-by-east ; Leyden Island, 
east-by-north-half-north; Enkhuysen Island, northeast-quarter- | 

Borth ; and Edam Island, northeast-by-north. The commodore 
was induced to anchor thus far from the city, to avoid the pesti- 
lential atmosphere generated by the stagnant water, in and ad- 
jacent to the marshy site of that Dutch Venice, which, if con- 
flagrated, would " hiss in its foundations ;" so low indeed is it, and 
so thickly planted with cocoanut, tamarind, canary, and a variety 
of other trees, that no part of it except the cupola of the great 
church could be seen from the deck of the Potomac. 

Before she reached her anchorage, the frigate was boarded 
by a boat from the city, bringing several American gentlemen, who 
communicated the agreeable intelligence that Batavia was un- 
usually healthy. News of the Potomac's intended visit had 
reached the city, and '' rumour with her himdred tongues" had 
blazoned far and near the account of her exploit at Quallah-Bat- 
too ; all hac^ been in daily expectation of her arrival. There was 
only one American vessel here ; the French brig which the Poto- 
mac spoke off St. Pauls had arrived, and again left the harbour ; 
of Dutch vessels there were about twenty of all descriptions, in- 
cluding one or two men-of-war. As is usual and always advisa- 
ble for foreign vessels at this port, a number of Malays wete en- 
gaged to man the frigate's boats, intended to ply between the ship 
and the shore ; thus saving our men from exposure and probable 
sickness. 

A boat was sent on shore with an officer to wait on the au- 



1888.] BATAYIA. 261 

thorities and regulate the salute ; and on her return, the first Intel* 
ligence was confirmed of the present health of the city ; so that 
the commodore changed his anchorage by mo7ing to a more 
pleasant birth, within about four miles of the commercial capital 
of Java. 

As this chapter has been principally devoted to a descripticm 
of the Strait of Sunda, and the Potomac's passage through it on 
the second, third, fourth, fifth, sixth, and seventh of March, eigh- 
teen hundred and thirty-two, we cannot more appropriately con* 
elude it than by adding the following document, containing a table 
of the beacons, twenty-two in number, on the shoals in the navi- 
gable waters of the Strait of Sunda, to and from Batavia Roads, 
replaced by order of the Dutch government, June sixth, eigh* 
teen hundred and thirty-two, three months after the Potomac's 
visit. The names of the shoals marked with an <isterisk(*) have 
a beacon with a cross ; those marked thus (t) have only a cross* 

The beacons with crosses, are beams, With a crosstree painted 
white ; those without are single beams, painted white, both kinds 
extending twelve feet above water. In case one or more of the 
beacons should bb removed by violence of the weather or othep- 
wise, bamboo stakes, fifteen or twenty feet above water, with 
baskets covered with cloth painted black and white, will be placed 
in their stead, until they can be replaced by proper wooden pillars. 
Beacon number eleven stands upon a rock not laid down on any 
chart, to which the name of Mathilda Rock has been given, it 
being known in Malay language by the name of Karang ProL 
The rocks on which beacons eighteen and twenty are placed, have 
hitherto had no Dutch names, they are now called the Wrange 
and the Midden Rock. The native names are in parentheses. 
The number of feet mentioned after the situation of the beacon, 
shows the depth at low water. 

Father Smit's Bankt (Poeloe Poetrie), situated on the northeast 
point, nine feet ; Leyden bearing north-northwest-half- west, and 
the beacon on Neptune's Shoal bearing west-k^uarter-south. Nep- 
tune's Shoalt (Karang Passier), on northwest point, twelve feet ; 
Leyden northeast-quarter-north ; eastern point of Hoom north- 
northwest-three-quarters-west. The Pasopt (Klarang Tanglam), 
on northeast point, twelve feet; Leyden northeast-half-north; 
eastern point of Hoom north-n(»rthw68t-quarter*west. Rhynland 



SOS TOTAGS OF THB'FOTOMAC. [ICarcli; 

Shoalt (Karang Taban), on east point, twelve feet; Hoom north- 
by-west-quarter-west ; Kuiper northwest-by-wesUhalf-west. Ry- 
geradaal Bankt (Karang Carnal), on east point, nine feet; Hoom 
nortfa-northeast-qaaiter-east ; Kuiper north-northwest. The Arms 
of Purmerendt (Karang Djalan), on east point, thirteen feet ; 
eastern point of Hoom north-by-east; Roftterdam northwest. 
The rocks bearing west of the Island of Hoomt (Karang Poeloe 
Ayer), in the centre, twelve feet ; northern point of Hoom east- 
half-sou^ ; Rotterdam west-quarternnorth. The Reef of Rotter- 
damt (Karang Poeloe Obie), in the centre, fifteen feet ; southern 
point of Hoom east-three-quarters south ; ip^estem point of Onrust 
Kerkhof south-half-west. The Re^ of Purmerendt (Karang 
Poeloe Sakiet), on southwest point, nine feet ; southern point of 
Purmerend north; Kuiper west-northwest-quarter-west. The 
Stone of Onrustf (Karang Poeloe Kelor), on west point, nine 
^t ; Rotterdam north-northeast-quarter-east ; Kuiper southeast* 
by-south. The Mathilda Rock* (Karang Prol), on northeast 
point, twelve feet ; southwestern point of the Kuiper southeast ; 
eastern point of Rotterdam northeast-three-quarters-north. The 
' Reef of Onrust* (Karang Poeloe Kapal), on west point, nine 
feet. The two points of the reef bearing northwest of the Island 
of Kuiper* (Karang Poeloe Kuiper), on northwest point, nine 
feet; the Reefs of Onrust, and the two points of that bearing 
northwest of the Island of Kuiper, extend to the Islands of On- 
rust and Kuiper. The Reef of Onlong Javat (Tanjong Onlong 
Java), on north point, thirteen feet ; Haarlem east ; western point 
of Middelburg north-by-west. The Reef of Middelburgt (Ka- 
rang Poeloe Ramboet), on southeast point, fifteen feet ; and the 
same Reeft (Karang Poeloe Ramboet), on southeast point, fifteen 
feet; the coral reef on which these beacons are placed is connected 
with the island. The Wrange Rockt (Karang Sepat), on west point, 
twelve feet; south point of Middelburg southeast-by-east-half- 
east ; Poeloe Dapoor northeast-half-north ; at a cable's length to 
the westward from this is another rock, eleven feet below the 
surface. The Myndert's Shoalt (Karang Gosson), in the centre, 
twelve feet; Klein Kombuis northwest-quarter-west; Poeloe 
Dapoor northeast-by-east. The Middle Rockt (Karang Loem- 
boeng), on southwest point, twelve feet ; Klein Kombuis northeast- 
by-north-half-east ; south point of the Great Kombuis northwest^ 



i 



- I 



183S.] BAT AVI A. . 2M 

by-westrthree-quarters-west. The Reef of the Great Kombmst 
(Karang Poeloe ' Lantjang, or Karang Papedjie), on west point, 
fourteen feet ; south point of the Great Kombuis east-southeast- 
half-east ; eastern point of Maneater Island southwest-three-quar- 
ters-west. The Southeast Rockf in the centre, fifteen feet; 
eastern point of Maneater Island south-half-west ; northern point 
of the Great Kombuis northeast-three-quarters east ; beacon oql 
the Great Kombuis southeast-by-east-three-quarters-east. 

The Potomac passed the Strait of Sunda in March, eighteem 
hundred and thirty two. The following is a list of the wboie 
number of vessels which were reported at AngeTf or Anjere^ a 
village on the Java shore, as having passed the strait in the 
same year, via : — ^Dutch, fifty-eight out, fifty-four home ; English, 
twenty-eight out, twenty-seven home; American, twenty-nine 
out, twenty-nine home ; French, two out, one home ; Hambui^h, 
two out, one home ; Russian, one out ; Swedish, one out ; DaniA, 
one home. Total reportq^y'^^^ hundred and thirty-eight. This 
list is doubtless imperfect, as many that passed without touching 
at Anger could not have been reported ; but it showa the great* 
proportion of American vessels trading in these seas. 



4* 

984 yoTAos of thi potomac. [ICarclb 



CHAPTER XV. 

Java tod Sumatra onc^ connected — Origin of the name of JaTa — Size and 
of the ialand — Origin of the inhabitauts^— Pagans and Idolaters — ^Java succesaiTely 
visited bj the Siamese, Arabs, Malaya, and Chinese — ^Arab missionaries — Conrersion 
of the inhabitants to the MUhommedan faith — ^The Portognese visit the island — Hie 
Engiiah— The Dutch at Bantam— At Batayia-*The English at Hantam— Massacre 
of Ajnbojna — ^Datch oppressions— ^Massacre of the Chinese at Batavia — ^Amerif- 
cans visit Batavia — Governor DMndePs Administration — ^Antiquities of Javsr-r 
Description of the Javans — ^Their dress — Origin of the kris — Character, habit% 
and manners — Early marriages — Frequent divorces— Cookery and food — Amose* 
ments — ^Useful arts and manufactures— Houses, furniture, eoiilpyments, agricuhnre, 
and commerce — Qovemment, Uterature, &Cf 

In our description of the Strait of Sunda, in the preceding 
chapter, an idea was suggested that tlie islands of Sumatra and 
JaTa had probably once been united at some yery remote period, 
and formed but one island. Indeed, there is a tradition recorded 
in the annals of Java, which says — " It is related that in former 
times the islands of Sumatra, Java, * Bali, and Sumbava were 
united, and afterward separated into nine different parts ; and it is 
also said, that when three thousand rainy seasons have passed 
away, they will be reunited." Adrtiitting for a moment the fact 
of their former union, the hypothesis might very naturally be ex- 
tended still further, including in the same semicircular range the 
Malay Peninsula on the northwest, together with the islands on 
the east, including Lombok, Flores, Timor, Timorlant, Arroo, and 
New Guinea. By those are formed that great chain or barrier, 
which locks up the China Sea on the south and west, and probar 
bly once completely separated it from the great Indian Ocean. 
The waters of the latter have in divers places either forced or in- 
sinuated themselves through this circling arm of continental 
Asia, or the mighty ridge has been severed and shivered by some 
terrible convulsion of nature, — forming those numerous straits 
which are now the avenues of communication and commercial 
intercourse between the Atlantic ports and the Celestial Empire. 
Thus, that elongated portion of the broken ridge which bears the 



188S.] ISLAND OF JAVA. S65 

name of Java, is washed on its western end by the Strait of Sunda,' 
which is at one poitit only fotirteen miles in width ; and by the 
Strait of Bali, on its eastern extremity. 

This division^ or breaking up of the great eastern peninsola, is 
supposed by some writers to be alluded to in the book of Genesis, 
where the sacred ptoman, in his account of Noah's descendants, 
and their various locations in the postdiluvian world, says — 
*' And unto Eber were bom two sons ; the name of one was 
Peleg ; for in his days was the earth divided." Speaking of the 
sons of Javauy it is written — ^''By these were the isles of the- 
gentiles divided in their lands \ every one after his Umgue, aftot 
their families, in their nations.'' From this passage it has been in- 
ferred, that; the island under consideration was named '* after the 
family" of Javant ^ Java. That caravans of merchants once 
traded and held intercourse with a rich country in the east callea 
JavaUf appears from E^ekiel, who describes them as traders in 
'' the persons of men, mnd vessels of brass, to the market of Tyre, 
and who, going to and fro, occupied in her fedrs, brought bright 
iron [steel], cassia, and calamus.'' One of the sons of Javan was 
called Elishah ; and the prophet speaks of ** blue and purple from 
the isles of Elishah." His brother's name was Tarshish ; — ^* Tar^ 
shish was thy merchant by the reason of the multitude of all kinds 
of riches, with silver, iron, tin, and lead, they all traded in thy 
fairs." The brothers of Javan were called Mecheck and Tu- 
bal : — " Javan, Tubal, and Mecheck, they were thy merchants ; 
they traded the persons of men and vessels of brass, in thy 
market." A nephew of Javan was called Togarmah : — " They 
of the house of Togaimah traded in thy fairs with horses and 
horsemen, and mulesl" 

In all these passages, some writers see, or think they see, a 
direct allusion to the extensive caravan-routes, formed at an early 
period, for conveying the fine manufactures of the east into the 
kingdoms of the west. Although " the embroidered work and 
chests of rich apparel bound with cords," mentioned by Ezekiel, 
are said to have been brought from depots on the banks of the 
Euphrates, yet it is not supposed that they were manufactured 
there, but drawn from more distant countries of eastern Asia; 
probably from the great chain of islands now under consideration. 

But all this is curious and amusing speculation; and we shall 



* 4 

TOTAGB OF THE POTOMAC. [|IaiGll« ] 

Ime il to diose who are better yened in the subject to tiace the 
connexioii between the Javan of Holy Writ, and the Java of mod- 
em times, the location of which we now proceed to describe. 

The whole Island of Jara extends in a direction neaily east 
and west, with only a slight deviation to the noith and sooth; its 
western extremity being in longitude 105* IT, and its eastem. 
in longitude 1 14* dS' east. The length of the island is about 
•even hundred miles, while its breadth varies from sixty to one 
hundred and forty miles ; and it is estimated to contain an area 
of about fifty thousand miles, with a population of fiye millions ; 
jnclndiwg Jayans, Chinese, Arabs, Moors, Bugis, Malays, and the 
Dutch colonists. 

The Island of Java occupies a considerable space in the histcny 
<rf conmierce. Three centuries befcne the Dutdi had penetrated 
to the east, Java had been visited by the celebrated Venetian trav- 
eller Marco Polo. Tradition says that about eight hundred years 
after the Christian era, a vessel was cast away on the coast of 
Java, while attempting to cross from Siam to the Straits of Ma- 
cassar, the crew of which travelled over much of the island. These 
pec^le, on their return to Siam, gave such a glowing account of 
the countries they had seen, that the son of the King of Siam 
was induced to visit Java, and soon after colonized it. Since then, 
many other tribes from India came and settled on it, particularly 
Arabs, as Marco Polo, who visited both Java and Sumatra in 
twelve hundred and ninety-six, mentions several of them. Another 
tradition says that the first inhabitants came in vessels from the 
Red Sea, and that in their passage they coasted along the shores 
of Hundustan ; that peninsula then forming an unbroken conti- 
nent with the land in the Indian Archipelago. These people are 
supposed to have been banished from Egypt, and to have been 
idolaters of various descriptions. 

But whatever might have been the origin of the inhabitants, it 
is pretty generally conceded, that they were all idolaters until 
about the year thirteen hundred and seventy, when the Arab mis- 
sionaries came among them, and commenced the work of con- 
version with their usual zeal, but with less violence than had here- 
tofore marked the rapid spread of the Mahommedan faith. They 
possessed a knowledge of medicine, which enabled them to effect 
several cures of persons of high rank, as well as many of the 



18S2.} ISLAND OF lATA. 267 

common people, of dangerous and what were then considered 
fatal disorders. This gained them a reputation for superior and 
supernatural attainments, which furthered their missionary projects 
to the extent of their wishes. 

About the year fourteen hundred and twelve, according to the 
Javan records, a considerable number of Chinese emigrants ob- 
tained a settlement in the island. Mild and inoffensive in their 
manners, and backward to resent acts of oppression, they were 
subject to many restrictions and exactions from which the natives 
were exempt, l^ey often intermarried with the Javans, how- 
ever, and thus introduced a mixed breed, which are called by the 
Dutch Pemakans. The Chinese still remained distinct from the 
natives, from whom they were distinguished by being more intel- 
ligent, more laborious, and more luxurious. They were, in fact, 
the life and soul of the commerce of the country. The Malays 
obtained a footing much earlier than the Chinese, though we can- 
not refer to the exact date. They were from the Malayan pen- 
insula, which was then overrun with pirates and Arabian free- 
booters. These were viewed as honourable occupations, worthy 
of being followed by young princes and nobles. No wonder that 
their descendants are fond of navigation, war, plunder, emigra- 
tion, adventures, and gallantry ; talk incessantly of their honour 
and bravery, while in their habits and conduct they are the most 
treacherous and ferocious people on the face of the globe. 

After the Portuguese had discovered a new route to India, by 
the Cape of Good Hope, they soon visited all the principal islands 
of the Indian Archipelago, for the ostensible purpose of opening 
a commercial intercourse with the inhabitants, but with the ulterior 
view of obtaining territorial jurisdiction for their sovereign in the 
east. Success attended their measures, though blood and deso- 
lation too often tracked their progress. In fifteen hundred and 
eleven, the enterprising and victorious Alphonso de Albuquerque, 
having conquered the city of Malacca, on the western coast of 
the Malay peninsula, opposite Sumatra, which island he had pre- 
viously visited, sent envoys to announce to such islanders as had 
been in the habit of trading with Malacca, inviting them to con- 
tinue their intercourse, and making liberal promises of encourage- 
ment and fair dealing. To Java he sent Antonio de Abrew, who 
landed, it is supposed, at Gresik, on the northeast coast, in the 



S6S TOTAOB OF THE POTOMAC. [Mafclly 

Strait of Madura. After delivering his message, and obtaining a 
&¥Ourable reply, Abrew sailed on the same errand to the Mo- 
luccas, or Spice Islands, lying further east. The final result of 
this embassy was the erection of a Portuguese factory at Bantam, 
where then reigned a Hindoo prince, although Mahonunedanism 
was rapidly spreading over the whole island. 

In fifteen hundred and thirteen, Joan Lopez Alvrin was sent to 
Java by the Governor of Malacca, on conunercial business, and 
was well received at every port where he touched, but particularly 
at Sidaye, which Ues north of Gresik, then belonging to a prince 
who had been defeated at Malacca. About this time Albuquerque 
was superseded in his command, which disgrace broke his heart, 
and he died on his passage to Goa, on the sixteenth of December, 
fifteen hundred and fifteen. About six years afterward, Antonio 
de Brito, a Portuguese, with six vessels under his command, 
bound to the Spice Islands, touched .^at Gresik, in the Strait of 
Madura, where he remained seventeen days ; during which time 
he sent a boat across the strait to the Island of Madura, for the 
purpose of exploring it ; but the inen landing incautiously, were 
surprised and made prisoners. They were subsequently ransomed 
with much difficulty. 

The first notice with which Java was honoured by the British, 
was in fifteen hundred and seventy-nine ; and that was merely a 
flying visit, as Sir Francis Drake only sailed along the coast, with- 
out holding any intercourse with the inhabitants. But eight years 
afterward, in fifteen hundred and eighty-seven, Cavendish coasted 
the island, and opened a friendly communication with some of the 
chiefs. This event occurred subsequently to the reign of a sove- 
reign in Java, called Pananbaham Senapati, who reduced the 
provinces of Madion and Branaraga, and built a palace, the walls 
of which are still standing at Krapiac, a place at the foot of a 
range of hills lying along the South Sea, a short distance from 
Matarem. He died after a reign of twelve years, esteemed on 
accoiiht of the general tranquillity which prevailed after the firm 
establishment of his government. 

His successor, who was distinguished by the title of Agung, 
or the great, commenced a flourishing reign by a victory which 
brought all the eastern provinces under his subjection ; and shortly 
afterward brought the whole of the western chiefs to acknowl- 



I68S.} IfULND OF JATA. 260 

edge hia supremacy. Thus the whole island was now under his 
dominion, to which he soon after united the Island of Madura. 

In the meantime, while the victorious monarch was pursuing 
this career of success, a new and more insidious enemy had ob- 
tained a footing on the island. The Dutch, after haying driven 
the Portuguese from Ceylon, and other places where they had 
settled, availed themselves of the divisions and convulsions by 
which the empire of Java was distracted, and established them- 
selves at Bantam, with whose prince the Portuguese were then 
at war. Admiral Hodghton, who commanded the Dutch fleet, 
ofiered his tissistance to the king, and obtained, in return, per- 
mission to establish a factory, which was erected in sixteen hun- 
dred and two, being the first Dutch settlement in the east. They 
subsequently subdued, by force of arms, the neighbouring province 
of Jacatra ; and having a powerful force at their command, they 
determined to build a city, which should become the capital of 
their Asiatic possessions, and the centre of their political and 
commercial transactions.* They fixed upon their newly-con- 
quered province of Jacatra, on the north side of the island, about 
ninety miles firom the Strait of Sunda, where they founded a city 
in sixteen hundred and nineteen, which they called Batavia, firom 
the ancient appellation of their own country, and soon rendered 
it a great and flourishing station.* 

* The Jayans at Jacatra say that the Dutch played oflT a foul stratagem on them. 
In order to ascertain the strength and resources of the place, the captain of a 
Dutch ship landed with his officers, disguised with turhans, 6lc., and after making 
their obserrations, entered upon trade, offering astonishing liberal terms, and twlting 
many presents. Intimacy was soon established with the prince, who granted them 
leare to bring their vessel up the river, where she was privately scuttled and sunk, 
a pretence for further delay. They then asked for a small piece of ground, on 
which to erect a shed to store the sails and other property, until they could raiae the 
sunken vessel. This was also granted. They then raised a mnd wall around the 
piece of ground, so that no one might see what they were about, all the while 
courting the friendship of the prince, of whom the captain requested as much land 
as could be covered with a buffaloe^s hide, on which he might build a small pandok ; 
this being complied with, he cut the hide into strips, and claimed all the land he 
could enclose with them. To this, also, the prince, after some hesitation, consented. 
The captain then went on with his buildings, engaging that he would pay all ex- 
penses. When all was ready, the mud wall was removed, batteries were unex- 
pectedly displayed, and, under their protection, the Dutch refused to pay a dollar. 
War was the consequence, and the Dutch, after slaughtering thousands of the 
natives, remained masters of the field. Having thus secured a foothold at Jaeatn, 



270 voTAOX OF THs POTOMAC. [Maichy 

Previously to this, however, the English East India Company, 
foliowiog the example of the Dutch, fitled out a fleet for the easti 
the command of which was given to Captain Lancaster, who sailed 
from London in sixteen hundred and one ; first to Acheen, in Su- 
matra, as stated in a preceding chapter, where he procured «pait 
of his cargo, and entered into a treaty with the king, of which a 
copy is yet in existence. From Acheen he proceeded to Bantami 
where he established a factory, which was the first possession of 
the English in the East Indies. Captain Lancaster took home a 
letter firom the King of Bantam, addressed to Queen Elizabeth, in 
sixteen hundred and two, which is said to be still on file in the 
English state-paper office, and to which the virgin queen made 
a most gracious reply. 

Another English fleet of four ships, commanded by Captaiify 
afterward Sir Henry Middleton, arrived in Bantam Roads near 
the close of December, sixteen hundred and four. Here the ves* 
sels separated, two of them remaining to take in a cargo of pep-> 
per, one going to Banda, while Middleton himself proceeded to the 
Spice Islands. He found the Moluccas the seat of a most fero- 
cious war between the Dutch and Portuguese ; the former as* 
sisted by the King of Temate, and the latter by the King of Ti- 
dore. The King of Temate was prevailed upon by the Dutch 
not to permit any commercial intercourse with the English, whom 
they represented as a mere band of pirates, and boasted that the 
King of Holland was more powerful at sea than all Europe be- 
side. Of course Middleton effected no trade at the Moluccas. 

In October, sixteen hundred and twelve, Captain John Sarisj 
commanding a fleet in the service of the East India Company, 
arrived at Bantam, which was still considered as the chief Eng- 
lish factory in the east. But as he could not procure cargoes, he 
steered for the Moluccas ; where the dreadful tragedy was soon 
after enacted by the jealous and envious Dutch, celebrated by the 
name of " the Massacre of Amboyna," in which the English Cap- 
tain Towerson and nine others, after being most cruelly tortured, 
were put to death. The news of this ruthless and bloody catas- 
trophe caused great excitement in England, who made reprisals 



they prepared to build a city, and called it Batavia : this story, at least, ha* thtt 
recommendation of classical allusion ! 



1832.] ISLAND OF JAVA* 271 

on the Dutch ships in her ports, and it was many years before 
the aggression was atoned for. The English, however, still main- 
tained their settlement at Bantam, which they had even made the 
capital of their eastern possessions. But the constantly increasing 
power of the Dutch, and the greater attractions presented to the 
English on the continent of India, induced them gradually to re- 
linquish their insular stations, with the exception of a few on the 
coast of Sumatra. They finally withdrew their establishment 
from Bantam, in sixteen hundred and eighty-three. 

The Dutch, now without a rival on the island, monopolized the 
whole trade, and became more insolent than ever. They had 
always assumed a high tone from their first landing, whioh was 
the cause of all the quarrels, massacres, and other acts of atrocity 
of which they were perpetually guilty. Such is ever the case 
with colonial rulers situated so far from the immediate reach or 
control of the mother country. But there was a period when the 
government of Holland seriously contemplated the project of 
transporting its wealth, its enterprise, and its subjects to another 
hemisphere, and fixed upon Batavia, already the seat of its easterly • 
commerce, as the capital of its new empire. This plan was in 
agitation in the summer of sixteen hundred and seventy-two, when 
the French troops under Louis the Fourteenth had overrun the 
territory of Holland. But what that republic only contemplated, 
the King of Portugal afterward put in practice. Had the gov- 
ernment of Holland removed to Java, i^ is probable there would 
not have been so much cause of complaint against the cruelty 
and injustice of their Batavian governors, as now stains the page 
of 'their colonial history. 

The Chinese emigrants and their descendants in Java, have 
been and still are subject to restraints and extortions from the 
Dutch government at Batavia, as unnecessary and impoUtic as they 
are unjust ; for this class of inhabitants are the most inoffensive 
and the most industrious on the island. And yet the Dutch affect 
to be suspicious of them, and often punish them without a cause, 
on pretence of their being concerned in some conspiracy against 
the government. Such an event, says Barrow, occurred in the 
year seventeen hundred and seventy-two, when the supposed 
chief of such a conspiracy, who we beUeve was a Dutchman, 
with twenty of his alleged adherents, were condemned to suffer 



878 TOTAOB Of THS POTOMAC. [Maicfat* 

death *^ by being stretched on a cross, — the flesh of their legs, 
.arms, and breast torn away with redhot pincers, — their bellies 
ripped up, and their hearts thrown in their faces, — their heads cut 
ofi^ and stuck upon poles ; and their mangled carcasses exposed 
to be devoured by the fowls of the air, &c. 6lc, And after this 4 

sentence was put in execution, a solemn thanksgiving was pro- 
claimed ; and the following day thirty more were broken on the 
wheel." 

In seventeen hundred and forty, ais we find by a reference to 
the same author, the Governor of Batavia, Valkanier, was guilty 
of a still greater outrage, in order to get rid of a redundance of 
population, which had begun to create suspicion and alarm. Dis- 
appointed in not being able to extort a large sum of money from 
the Chinese chiefs for permission to celebrate some particular 
feast, the governor accused them of a treasonable plot against his 
authority and life. The Chinese chief, whom he chose to desig- 
nate as the leader of the conspiracy, was dragged to the stadt- 
house, where the most horrid torture was employed for the pur- 
pose of extorting from him the confession of a crime which he I 
never thought of; and at the same time five hundred of his coun- 
trymen were cast into prison, where they were most inhumanly 
butchered. About four hundred who fled to the hospital, a build- 
ing of their own construction, shared the same fate. An indis- 
criminate slaughter of the Chinese was at the same time going on 
in the streets, which literally ran with blood. Escape was im- 
possible, as the gates were doubly guarded, and all the sailors had 
be^n landed from the ships in the road, to assist in this horrid 
tragedy ; in which neither age nor sex was spared. The timid 
Chinese made no resistance, but, according to the Dutch account, 
in their public records, " sufiered themselves to be led as sheep to 
the slaughter." The number stated to have perished is com- 
puted in the same records to be twelve thousand souls ! A day f 
was immediately set apart by the governor as a public thanks- 
giving to the God of mercy, for their happy deliverance from the 
hands of the heathen ! 

In seventeen hundred and ninety-two, the English embassy to 
Cochin China stopped at Batavia for several days. Mr. Barrow ' 

was of the party, and he gives a melancholy account of the broken 
spirit of the Javan chiefs and people, the native lords of the island. 



1882.] ISLAND OP JA^pyL. 273 

He represents their state and condition as by no means enviable. 
Sunk into the lowest stage of apathy, they seemed to be utterly 
incapable of any great exertions. " Their princes are prisoners 
to a handful of Dutchmen, and the landholders are slaves to the 
princes." The ambassador and suite endearoured to pay a visit 
to the King of Bantam, but were prevented by a Dutch officer, 
who commanded the/or^ in which he resided. 

In seventeen hundred and ninety-seven the Americans began 
to frequent the market of Batavia, and it was principally through 
them that the trade was carried on till the conquest of the island 
by the British, except during the short interval of the peace of 
Amiens. From that time until eighteen hundred and fourteen, 
during the existence of the odious *' orders in council," and the 
retaliating decrees of Milan and Berlin, the American trade was 
carried on with Batavia to the greatest extent. Our adventurers 
then purchased the Java coffee at a very low rate, and by a cir- 
cuitous route carried it into the French ports, where they found a 
ready market for it at an advance of one hundred per cent. 

After Louis Bonaparte ascended the throne of Holland, in 
eighteen hundred and six, he appointed Lieutenant-general Daen- 
dels, whom he had previously loaded with well-deserved honours, 
Governor-general of Batavia, who held that important office until 
Java was taken by the -British, in eighteen hundred and eleven* 
During the administration of Daendels, whose liberal and en- 
lightened policy did much for the moral regeneration of BSitavia, 
justice was distributed with a milder and more impartial hand ; 
and if slavery was not abolished, through respect for private 
property, the condition of that unfortunate class was greatly ame- 
liorated. If commercial prosperity was not restored, the health 
of the city was greatly improved, to the salvation of thousands of 
himian lives. That prisonhouse of contagion and pestilence, 
which had been locked up for nearly two centuries, was now 
thrown open to a free circulation of air ; and all such nuisances 
removed, as were the obvious causes of disease. But mor^ of 
this in another chapter. 

In the year eighteen hundred and eleven, Holland was united to 
France, and the French flag was hoisted at Batavia ; and on the 
eleventh of September, in the same year, the British government 
was declared supreme in the Island of Java, by a proclamation 

■ s 



S74 YOTAOS OF THE JfOTOMAC. [Maxch, 

of that date signed by the Earl of Minto, Governor-general of 
Bengal. On the seventeenth of the same month a capitulation 
was entered into, by which all the dependances fell into the hands 
of Great Britain. But on the thirteenth of August, eighteen hun- 
dred and fourteen, the whole were restored to the Dutch by treaty, 
at the general pacification of Europe. The flag of the Nether- 
lands was hoisted again at Batavia, on the nineteenth of August, 
eighteen hundred and sixteen. 

The Javans, as we have already stated, are Mahommedahs. 
Indeed, as early as the year fourteen hundred and twenty, during 
the reign of Pangeran Trangana, the Moslem faith so far pre- 
vailed, that a mosque had been completed, and the Hindoo idola- 
tries almost entirely exploded: But the ruins of their ancient 
temples are still to be seen, with thousands of antiquities and 
inscriptions, which, no doubt, if correctly understood, would throw 
much light on the early history of Java. 

Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, who was for some time lieuten- 
ant-governor of that island and its dependances, and president of 
the Society of Arts and Sciences at Batavia, published an excel- 
lent history of that country in eighteen hundred and seventeen, 
accompanied with a complete map and a quarto volume of plates, 
illustrating the antiquities of the island, consisting of curious 
specimens of sculpture on stone, and casts in brass ; the ruins of 
temples, images, figures, inscriptions on stone and copper, tombs, 
coins, 'Ac., with copious scientific and plausible remarks on their 
origin and purpose. We acknowledge ourselves indebted to this 
work for many valuable facts, which could be obtained from no 
other source. 

On the whole there can be no doubt that the original inhab- 
itants were of Hindoo origin, and that the religion of Mahom- 
med was induced or forced upon them by the Arabs at the time 
they carried their conquests to the eastern shores and islands of 
Asia, overspreading those delightful regions like the locusts of 
their own deserts. But notwithstanding they were compelled to 
embrace a new religious faith, the Javans even to this day are 
still devotedly attached to their ancient institutions, and retain a 
high respect for the laws, usages, and national observances, which 
prevailed before the introduction of Mahommedanism. And 
though the Javans, in general, acknowledge that '^ there is one 



1882.] ISLAND OT JAVA. 275 

God, and Mahommed was his prophet,^ they are not much 
acquainted with the tenets of the Moslem faith, and in fact care 
yery little about them. Although they practise the rites of the 
faithful, yet all classes drink wine, and other inebriating liquors, 
whenever they feel disposed ; and those who abstain are not ac- 
tuated by any reUgious motives. 

Not only the features, the manners, and the remains of the 
civil and reUgious institutions of the Hindoos are still apparent 
among the Javanese, but it is said that they have preserved the 
fragments of a history, according to which they derive their ori- 
gin from Vishnoo. This history terminates with the account of ^ 
a dreadful deluge which swept away a vast portion of mankind. 
In the interior of the island, it is well known that they still observe 
a scrupulous abstinence from every kind of animal food, under 
the old Hindoo idea of a transmigration of souls. They are in no 
respects so strict in the religious observances of Mahommed as 
they appeared to be when the Dutch first established themselves 
on Java ; at that time the natives, including their princes, were in 
the habit of making ' pilgrimages to Mecca, the birthplace of the 
prophet. But this practice was kept in check as much as possi- 
ble by the Dutch, as was also the admission of Arabnnission- 
aries ; not so much from any pious desire to promote Christianity 
in opposition to the Mahommedan faith, but to prevent the natives' 
acquiring a character for sanctity, that might give them an im- 
portance among themselves dangerous to the power and tranquillity 
of the Dutch.* 

But from whatever stock the Javans may have originally sprung 
— whether from the Hindoos, the Tartars, or, according to one of 
their traditions, from a species of ape, their personal appearance 

^ " The religion of the Javans is in general Mahommedan^ but mingled with super- 
stitious doctrines derived from the ancient pagan worship. The Javans, however, 
are far from bigots to their religion, as other Mahommedans generally are. They 
are mild and tractable by nature, and although they do not easily forget or forgive an 
injury, they would be a quiet, weU-disposed people under good laws and a mild gOT- 
emment. The murders and other crimes which are now committed in some places, 
are to be attributed more to the present faulty administration than to any bad dispo- 
sitions in the people. The same may be remarked of the indolence and indifference 
which now characterize them. Property in the land, with personal and commercial 
freedom and security, would soon render them industrious." — HogendarfM Memoir 
on Java, 1800L 

s2 



8T6 TOTAOB OF THB POTOMAC. [KSTctl, 

nuKjf be stated in a few words. In stature they are rather below 
the middle size, well shaped, and erect in their figures; with 
hands, feet, wrists, and ankles remarkably smaU. An instance 
of deformity is scarcely known among them ; thou^ females, in 
the arrangement of their toilet, often injure the luxuriant synunetry 
of the bust, by drawing that part of the dress too ti^tly over the 
bosom. The colour of their skin is a deep brown, inclining to 
yellow. Their bards and lyric poets compliment their mistresses 
as having complexions of ** virgin gold." The forehead is high 
and smooth ; the eyebrows well defined and arched, and not too 
near to the eyes, which are generally black and prominent. The 
nose is not very protuberant, but rather broad and somewhat flat- 
tened ; the <cheek bones are unusuaUy prominent. The mouth is 
well formed, the upper lip a little projecting, not much thickened, 
but highly arched. They have but little beard, and the hair of 
their head is generally lank and black ; though it is sometimes 
seen waving in curls, and partially tinged with a deep reddish 
brown. The tout-ensemble of the person is pleasing, and the 
countenance is mild, placid, and thoughtful ; easily varying to ex- 
press respect, gayety, earnestness, indifference, bashfulness, or I 
anxiety. They have a firm steady gait, and seem to feel, at least 
to affect, a superiority over the other inhabitants of the island. 
They anoint the head, face, and other parts of the body which 
are exposed to the view, with a composition of cocoanut oil and 
sandal-wood dust, as a preventive against a too copious perspira- 
tion, and the biting of moschetoes and other annoying insects. 

The women, as usual among demi-barbarians, in general are 
not so good looking as the men ; and when advanced in years, 
are actually ugly, according to our standard of female beauty. 
This circumstance, however, as regards the lower classes, is in a 
great measure owing to the severe duties which they have to ( 

perform in the field, exposed to a sultry climate, carrying heavy 
burdens, &c. The higher orders, who are exempt from such 
drudgery, and kept within doors, are often beautiful in youth, and 
comely at all periods of life. 

The dress of the Javanese is like that we have already de- , 

scribed in our account of Sumatra, and is, in fact, common to all 
classes in the Archipelago. The same kind of short drawers, 
a close waistcoat without sleeves, the loose gown, and the sarongs 



1882.] ISLANP OP JAVA. 277 

which is either worn slung over the shoulders as a sash, or tucked 
round the waist and descending to the ankles, so as to enclose 
the legs like a petticoat. The higher ranks sometimes display, 
on particular occasions, an article somewhat like the sarongs but 
much larger, and not united at the ends, which is worn -in the 
same way ; but from its size, and the manner of its being tucked 
up, it assumes the form of drapery, which is peculiar to Java. 
The females, also, vary very Uttle in their dress from those of the 
same rank in Sumatra. Both sexes, of all classes, wear rings oa 
their fingers. 

But like the Sumatrans, a Javan is not considered dressed 
without his krisy or dagger. This weapon is believed to have 
been first introduced into the oriental islands by Panji, a Javanese 
prince, who is supposed to have flourished about A. D. eight 
hundred and twenty, and for whose name the Javanese have such 
a reverence, that they represent him as an incarnation of Vishnoo ; 
and some maintain that all the countries in which the kris is 
now worn, acknowledged his supremacy. Another tradition 
attributes the introduction of this weapon to Sa Putram, one of 
the early Hindoo sovereigns, who is said to have come into the 
world with a kris by his side. At all events, the Javans appear 
to have a great reverence for this ancient weapon, and many un- 
thinking writers have condemned them unheard, because " they 
invariably use the deadly ftm." But the fact is, though sometimes 
resorted to by the Javans, this weapon is worn by them almost 
exclusively as a personal ornament, especially when in full dress, 
as small swords are worn at every court in Christendom. 

The children of the lower orders go naked, from the age of 
fifteen or eighteen months to six or seven years. Females some- 
times wear rings or bracelets round the wrist, chains about the 
neck, and chaplets of flowers in the hair, which is generally done 
up in a knot, with an appendage of large studs, either of buffalo- 
horn or brass, which they use for ear-rings. The dress of females 
of rank does not in fashion diiOfer essentially from that of the 
lower orders ; but the fabrics' are of finer texture and richer qual- 
ity ; gold studs and rings, and ornamented precious stones, being 
substituted for those of inferior metals. Both sexes of the higher 
classes wear sandals, shoes, or slippers, in the house. Neither 
sex cut their hair, but allow it to grow to its natural length; 



278 FOTAOB OF THB POTOMAC. [IfaTCb, 

whereas, the Malays and Bugis always wear it short. The men 
generally gather it up on the crown of the head, twist it round, 
and fasten it by means of a semicircular tortoise-shell comb fixed 
in front ; but among the higher classes it generally flows in curls^ 
which is considered as a mark of respect in presence of a su- 
perior. All classes anoint their hair with oils and '' precious 
ointments," as is the custom with all oriental nations ; they also 
perfume their dresses, and are addicted to the use of musk. In 
the houses of the higher orders, they are in the habit of burning 
incense' of benjamin and other odoriferous gums. The dress of 
the priests is white, with turbans on their heads, after the fashion 
of the Arabs. The coui#dress and war-dress yary in many 
respects from that of the common inhabitants. 

In common with the Sumatrans and other inhabitants of the 
Archipelago, both sexes of all ranks adhere to the singular and 
painful custom of fiUng and blackening the teeth, as they consider 
it disgraceful to have white teeth like dogs and monkeys. The 
object of filing, it seems, is to make the front teeth concave, and 
more susceptible of the black die. This cruel and barbarous 
custom, which generally takes place at the age of eight or nine 
years, tends to destroy the teeth at a very early period of life, 
although it is said that their rapid decay is not attended with 
any pain. 

The character of the Javahs is generally amiable ; we allude to 
the middling classes, who have not been corrupted by indulgence 
on the one hand, or spirit-broken and stripped by oppression on 
the other. They are a generous and warm-hearted people. In 
their domestic relations they are said to be kind, affectionate, 
gentle, and contented; in their public ones they are obedient, 
honest, and faithful. In their intercourse with society they dis- 
play, in a high degree, the virtues of honesty, plain dealing, and 
candour. They are ingenuous almost to a fault, and their sim- 
plicity and credulity are proverbial. Had this not been a promir 
nent feature in their character, the Arabs would not so easily have 
laid the yoke of Mahommed upon their necks. They easily be- 
come the dupes of any religious fanatic, and credit, without 
scruple or examination, his claim to superior powers. They are 
ever prone to be influenced by omens, to prognostics, to prophets, 
and to quacks. They are great observers of lucky or unlucky 



18dl^] ISLAlfD OF JAVA. 279 

days, and regulate the time of an enterprise or a journey accord- 
ingly. Eclipses, earthquakes, and other phenomena of nature, 
fiU them continually yfiih superstitious fears and unnecessary 
alarms. 

The Javans are conspicuous for the amiable qualities of social 
order, politeness, hospitaUty, and temperance. They are a sort 
of patriarchal people, still retaining many of the virtues, and all 
the simplicity, which distinguish that state, of society. Their 
village settlements constitute detached societies, in which the 
greatest internal concord prevails, all its members paying due 
respect and deference to their local chief and priest. This patri- 
archal spirit is further manifested in the almost instinctive venera- 
tion which they pay to age, experience, rank, and superior attain- 
ments. In manners they are easy and courteous, and respectful 
even to timidity ; but they have a great sense of propriety, and 
are never rude or abrupt. In their deportment they are pUant and 
graceful, the higher ranks carrying with them a considerable air 
of fashion and elegance. 

Hospitality has always been celebrated as an oriental virtue, 
some affecting instances of which are recorded in satoed as well 
as profane history. But in no country are its rites and duties 
more strictly enjoined by institutions, or more conscientiously and 
religiously observed by custom and practice, than by the Javans. 
By the custom of the country, good food and lodging are ordered 
to be provided for all strangers and travellers arriving at a village. 
But the Javan institutions go still further. " It is not sufficient,'* 
say they, '^ that a man should place good food before his guest ; 
he is bound to do more : he should render the meal palatable by 
kind words and treatment, to sooth him after his journey, and to 
make his heart glad while he partakes of the refreshment." This 
is the refinement of hospitality. 

The Javans are remarkably temperate in their diet, which forms 
a great contrast with that of their oppressors, the indolent and 
luxurious Dutch. A principal part of their food consists of rice, 
sometimes fried in oil, and sometimes boiled in plain water, with 
which are used a few capsules or heads of capsicum or cayenne 
pepper, and some salt, to render it a little more palatable. 
With animal food the Javans are generally unacquainted, and of 
milk they are very sparing, except the vegetable milk of the cocoa- 



S80 TOTAOB OF THE POTOMAC. [Mazdl^ 

nut. They are a sober people, although Europeans, in order to 
serve their own purposes, by inducing some of the chie& to drink 
wine to excess, have partially succeeded in corrupting the habits 
of some individuals in this respect. The use of opium, it must 
be confessed with regret, is too prevalent among them. 

Though not much addicted to excess, and of rather a moderate 
temperament, they are, in general, expensive according to their 
means, seldom hoarding their wealth, or betraying a penurious 
disposition. Fond of show and pomp, they lay out all their spare 
money in dress and equipage. They are proud to a fault, if we 
may take the Dutch testimony for the fact ; and not only so, but 
if one be a person of rank, or in affluent circumstances, he is, on 
such testimony, " superstitious, proud, jealous, vindictive, mean, 
and slavish towards his superiors — ^but haughty and despotic 
towards his inferiors.^ We have reason to dissent from this 
opinion ; and also from that expressed by Jono de Barros, who 
says, the " Javans are so proud, that they think all mankind their 
inferiors ; so that if a Javan were passing along the street, and 
saw a native of any other country standing on any hillock or place 
raised higher than the ground on which he was walking, if any 
such person did not immediately come down until he should have 
passed, the Javan would kill him, for he will permit no person to 
stand above him ; nor would a Javan carry any weight or burden 
on his head, even if they should threaten him with death.'' 

This we take to be the romance of early travellers and wonder- 
makers. That the Javans have pride, we are sensible ; but we 
must have stronger evidence than we yet possess, to believe that 
it was ever carried to such ridiculous excess. " Their nation- 
ality," says Raffles, " which is very strong, although it delights in 
the traditionary narratives of ancient Javan exploits, and supports 
a hope of future independence, which they are not backward to 
express, does not lead them to despise the character, or to under- 
value the acts of strangers." It is true, that those of the highfer 
ranks esteem it disgraceful to be engaged in trade ; but the com- 
mon people are industrious in their several callings, and^t^e chiefs 
are ever ready to encourage the labours of agriculture. . 

On the whole, the Javans are a mild, quiet, and* domestic 
people, justly proud of their ancestors, and, like the Jews, are 
confidently looking forward to the fulfilment of some traditionary 



1688.] ISLAND OF JATA. 281 

expectation of being restored to their former magnificence and 
power. They are, howeyer, very Uttle giyen to adventure or 
foreign enterprise, not easily roused to violence or bloodshed, and 
little disposed to irregularities of any kind. The character of 
treachery and revenge, so justly applicable to the Malays, by no 
means applies to the Javans. 

The character of Javanese females has been represente4 in a 
highly favourable light, as daughters, vrives, and mothers — alike 
amiable and exemplary in all their domestic and social relations. 
Raffles assures us that it is part of their domestic economy, that the 
women of every family should spin and weave all the cloth neces- 
sary for the apparel of the men ; apd that this rule prevails, firom 
the first consort of the sovereign to the wife of the humblest. 

** Royal Penelopes each day resume 
The carious labours of the mystic loom." 

• 

In every cottage there is a spinning-wheel and a loom, and in 
all ranks a man is accounted to pride himself on the beauty of a 
cloth woven either by his wife, mistress, or daughter. These 
occupations of the women are performed on an elevated veranda, 
or kind of open portico, in front of their dwellings, where they 
are protected from the rays of a vertical sun by an extended pro- 
jection of the pitch of the roof, like many of the Dutch houses 
in the United States. 

The females of Java soon arrive at maturity, and enter early 
into the married state. They are considered marriageable at the 
age of ten or twelve, and the other sex at sixteen. There are 
no pecuniary obstacles to these early conjugal connexions. The 
conveniences which the young married couple require are Tew and 
easily procured. Subsistence is easily obtained, and even com- 
forts are not wanting. If they be blessed with children, and we 
have never heard of any exception, the latter are not long a 
burden|. but soon become the means of assistance, and ultimately 
the soiwpe of wealth. Their food, clothing, and education, cost 
them coitiparatively nothing. The women of all classes nurse 
their ow» offspring, if we except tKe wives of the regents or the 
^ sovereign. •■ Sc^that each (§dr Javanese matron, even in a pecuniary 
point of view, may point to Aer children, and say with the mother 
of the Gracchi — " Behold my jewels !•* 



VBSt TOTAOB OF THS POTOMAC. [Maichy 

Marriage contracts are aU made by the parents, relations, or 
gdiupdians, apparently without much respect to the inclinations or 
tastes of the parties mosi imaiediately concerned. After the ne- 
gotiation has advanced to a certain stage, the intended bridegroom 
sends a present corresponding to his means to the bride elect, and 
' her acceptance of it renders the contract binding. Should the 
loyer,.howeTer, afterward evince any reluctance to fulfil his en- 
gagement, the present is forfeited to his betrothed; but if she 
express a similar disinclination, she is bound to return it to the 
donor. A period of several weeks generally elapses between the 
betrothing and the marriage, for which all parties are very' careful 
to select a lucky day. The faarriage ceremony appears to be a 
mere civil contract, liable to be dissolved on certain specified 
contingences. After leaving the mosque, not forgetting to pay 
the priest the marriage fees,* a procession is generally formed, 
consisting of the new-married couple, with their parents and 
relations, which moves through the town, attended by a band of 
music and accompanied by the firing of cannon. A feast is given 
in the evening at the house of the brides' parents. Such festivi' 
ties last sometimes for several days. 

Notwithstanding the Javanese females marry at so early an 
age, they generally continue to bear children until a late period 
of life ; so that it is not uncommon for a mother to attend the ac- 
couchement of her own grandmother. The wives of the Javans, 
however, are not so prolific as many women of other countries ; 
though instances are not wanting of one of them being the mother 
of thirteen or fourteen. Half a dozen may be taken as an aver- 
age ; but the early formation of new families is a continual check 
to the numerical increase of the parental household. An un- 
married man, past the age of twenty, is seldom to be met with, 
and an old maid is considered a vara avis in terra. The labour 
of the women in Java is estimated almost as highly as that of the 
men, and thus a married couple can maintain eight or ten persons ; 

and as a family seldom exceeds half that number, they have com- 

• 

* According to strict Mahommedans, the priest's marriage fee ought not to exceed 
fifteen stivers. In most instances, however, they are raised to five times that sum 
in money ; besides a fowl, a hank of cotton-yam, four katis of rice, two cocoanuts, 
fhnt, &c. There is very little in- the ceremony conformable to the Mahommedan 
precepts. — RafflW Java. 



1838.] ISLAND OP JATA. 2SB 

monly half of their earnings applicable for the purchase of little 
comfoits, for implements of agricultive» for clothing, and lodgingv 

We have said that the marriage j^atktmcX was liable to be dis- 
solved by certain contingences ; and perhaps there is no part of 
the world where divorces are more frequent than on the Island 
of Java. Whenever a woman becomes dissatisfied with herhus* 
band, she may demand a dissolution of the marriage contract, by 
paying him a sum established by custom, according to the rank of 
the parties ; say from twenty to fifty dollars. It is true, the hus- 
band is not bound to accept it ; but he is generally induced to do 
so from a consideration that the opinions and customa of the 
country require it ; that he could not be happy with a wife who 
disliked him, &c. &c. A widow may marry again at the expira- 
tion of three months and ten days after the death of her husband. 
Polygamy is of course permitted in Java by their religion, but is 
not practised to any great extent. Public opinion is opposed to 
it, and were it not, it is very seldom convenient for a man to have 
more than one wife at a time. 

The food of the Javans is very simple, being principally of a 
vegetable character, of which rice is the most prominent article. 
Still, however, fish, flesh, and fowl, are daily served up at their 
meals, according to the circumstances of the parties. They eat 
no amphibious animals, and abstain from pork, milk, butter, cheese, 
and spirituous liquors. They eat the flesh of the buffalo, the 
ox, the deer, the goat, and even the horse, when maimed or unfit 
for service. Salt is obtained in abundance throughout every part 
of the island, and sugar is made from the sap of the palm-trees, 
like the maple-sugar of our own country. In addition to these, 
they eat salted eggs, white ants, and various species of those 
worms which are so much esteemed by the Chinese, and are found 
in teak and other trees. The cooking utensils are of the most 
simple kind, being either of coarse pottery or copper. Rice is 
boiled or steamed ; Indian corn is roasted in the ear ; and they 
have pastry and sweetmeats in profusion. They eat all their 
meals on the ground, which is covered with a mat for that pur- 
pose. They have but two meals a day, and sometimes a slight 
lunch in the morning. 

The amusements of the Javans are various, and all partake 
more or less of their national characteristic simplicity. They 



W4 TOTAOB OF THB POTOMAC. [Haidly 

consist principally of stated religious festivals, and occasional 
civic feasts, musical concerts, dancing, dramatic exhibition^ eques- 
trian exercises, chivalry, tilting and tournaments, tiger-fighting, 
together with a variety of games of skill and chance. 

The musical instruments of the Javans, together with the va- 
rious exhibitions which still form so essential a part of the popu- 
lar amusements, are all supposed to have been introduced by 
Panji, to whom is also attributed the introduction of the Am, as 
before mentioned. These instruments are peculiar in themselves, 
and it requires firom ten to fifteen to form a band. The general 
principle on which the sounds are generated, is the vibration of 
metallic bars, when, as manifested on a small scale in our music- 
boxes, struck with hanmiers. Among the tones produced are 
«ome corresponding to those of the guitar, harmonica, musical 
glasses, the spinet, and other stringed instruments ; the flagelet, 
and the pandean reeds; together with tambarines, bells, trian- 
gles, and the Chinese gong. 

Many of the Javanese musical instruments, when played sep- 
arately, produce very sweet, soft, and melodious sounds ; but it is 
the unison and harmony of the whole united which gives to the 
music of Java its peculiar character among Asiatics. However 
simple and monotonous their airs may appear when played by 
themselves, with no accompaniment, they never tire on the ear 
when performed by a fiill band ; and it is not unusual, on some 
occasions, for a band to continue their performances for days and 
nights in succession. They have no written music, but play alto- 
gether by the ear. The Javans say that the first music of which 
they have an idea was produced by the accidental admission of 
the wind into a bamboo tube which was left hanging on a tree ; 
the idea is poetical at least. 

Dancing, with the Javans, as it is with the Asiatics in general, 
consists principally in graceful attitudes of the body, and in the 
slow movement of the limbs, particularly of the arms, even to the 
hands and fingers. It is emphatically the " poetry of motion." 
Feats of agility and muscular activity form no part of a Javanese 
dance, which is a total stranger to pirouettes, and every other 
caprice of the modem French school. The music is slow and 
solemn, to which every motion of the dancer exactly corresponds, 
and such movements as might become a holy oriental monarch 



16SSL] ISLAND OF JATA. 285 

in dancing before the ark of his faith. To dance gFacefiilly i» 
an accomplishment expected in every Javan of rank; and on days 
of festivity, all the chiefs are aCbcustomed to join in the exercise 
alternately, commencing with the youBgest. 

Their dramatic entertainments are a£ two kinds ; the topeng^ 
wherein the characters are . represented by men who generally 
wear masks Uke the ancient Greek performers ; and the wayangf 
in which they are represented by shadows, something like the 
spectacular entertainments exhibited by Ptofessor Martin. The 
subject of the topeng is invariably taken firom the Ufe and adven- 
tures of the celebrated Panji, the favourite hero of Javan story* 
In the performances before the sovereign, where masks are not 
worn by the actors, the several characters themselves rehearse 
their parts; but in general, the manager recites. the speeches, 
while the players have only to suit the action to the word. These 
performances are somewhat melo-dramatic, as the mDsic of a band 
accompanies the piece, and varies in expression, according to the 
nature of the action, or the kind of emotion to be executed. Buf- 
foonery is sometimes introduced, as it is on our own stage, for the 
sole purpose of raising a laugh ; but in Java, it is never suffered 
to interfere with the regular course of the performance. The 
actors are engaged by the night, for about ten rupees and a supper* 

Jousts, tilts, or tournaments, constitute another favourite amuse* 
ment of the Javans. They are generally exhibited before the sove^^ 
reign on the great square fronting the palace, on which occasions all 
the princes, nobles, and public officers are present, and the assem* 
blage of the people is generally very great. The weapons with 
which the champions perform their shamfights are blunted spears ;< 
and they themselves are mounted on horses richly caparisoned,, 
with splendid trappings and housings, and go through their exer* 
cises and feats with no little address and dexterity. 

There are several other manly exercises to which the Javana 
are addicted ; among which we will merely name (our limits will 
not permit a description) that of hunting the stag, which they pur* 
sue on horseback, and kill with a spear and cutlass. They have 
also a favourite national spectacle, often exhibited — ^which is a 
combat between the buffalo and the tiger, in a large cage expressly 
prepared for the purpose. It seldom fails that the buffalo is tri- 
umphant ; and one buffalo htfs been known to destroy several full- 



■■■*> 



1 



S86 TOYAGB OF THE POTOMAC. [Maicbf 

grown tigers in succeision. A combat between two bulls is a 
common amusement, as is also a contest between the ram and 
wild-hog. t Cockfighting, and other similar amusements, are 
principally confined to the Malays, of whose character they are 
certainly characteristic. 

Among the games of skill in which the Javans indulge them- 
selves, may be mentioned those of chess, backgammon, and 
draughts, besides several minor ones, played on boards of a similar 
construction. The throwing of dice and other games of chance 
are numerous ; and betting is very common. 

But though the Javans are fond of amusements, , they seldom 
permit them to interfere ve^th the calls of duty and industry. The 
Javans, by their ingenuity, application, and docility in working 
under European direction, have made so inconsiderable progress 
in many of the common arts and handicrafts appertaining to 
civil life. 

In RafHes's History of Java we find a list of thirty, for which 
they have terms in their language, and in many of which they 
are highly proficient : — viz., ironsmith and cutler, carpenter, kris- 
sheath-maker, carver, spear-shaft-maker, mat-maker, tQmer, brush- 
maker, stone-cutter, lime-maker, wayang-maker, musical instru- 
ment-maker, brazier, coppersmith, goldsmith, potter, distiller, 
bookbinder, weaver, cotton-printer, dier, oil-maker, diamond-cut- 
ler, paper-maker, tailor, embroiderer, seamstress, draftsman, painter, 
and tooth-filer. 

In constructing a habitation for himself and family, the Javan 
is sufiiciently expert for all the purposes required to accommodate 
every rank, from the peasant to the prince. The cottage or hut 
of the poor man, is invariably built on the ground, with the sleep- 
ing-places a little elevated above the level of the floor, and accord 
in simplicity with other parts of the dwelling. The sides or 
walls are generally formed of bamboo, flattened and interwoven, 
which also forms the partitions, if any such there be. The roof 
is thatched, either with grass or palm-leaves. In the western 
districts, where the materials are more easily obtained, the frames 
are generally made of timber instead of bamboo, and the interior 
of the building, as well as the front veranda, are raised about two 
feet from the ground. They require no other .light than what is 
admitted by the door, as all their domestic operations are carried 



\ 



«k 



188S.] ISULND OF JATA. 387 

on in the open air, and in that climate shade is more requisite than 
shelter. In short, the cottage of the humblest Javanese peasant 
presents tf greater degree of convenience and comfort than those 
of a similar class on continental India. 

The dwellings of the petty chiefs are distinguished by having 
eight slopes, or roofs ; four superior, and four secondary ; and 
those in which the chiefs and nobles reside are of larger size, 
with supporters and beams of timber. Such light structures as 
those just described, are well adapted to the climate and the 
means of the lower orders ; but they do not necessarily imply an 
ignorance of more durable materials ; for bricks are manufactured 
in almost every part of the island ; while the ruins of temples, 
and other antiquities of the coimtry, a£ford abundant testimony 
that the arts of architecture, sculpture, and statuary in stone, at 
one period reached a very hi^h pitch in Java. 

The palace of a Javanese prince or sultan, which is in fact a 
rectangular fort or castle,- comprises an extensive square, sur* 
roimded by a high wall, lined on the top with cannon, outside of 
which there is generally a moat or ditch. Both in front and rear 
there is a large open square for promenades, and the exercise of 
feats of arms and horsemanship. Its interior is handsomely 
finished and tastefully furnished. 

The furniture of the houses or cottages of the lower orders is 
of course simple, and comprises but few pieces, and those such as 
necessity demands. Like the Sumatrans, they attach more im- 
portance to the bed than to any other article of convenience, com- 
fort, or luxury. We like their taste ; for the couch of repose is 
the sweet requiter of the toils and the sorrows of the day : ^' let 
that give peace, and we forget the rest.'' 



« 



Impartial as the grare, 



Sleep robs the cmel tyrant of his power, 

Gives rest and freedom to the overwrought slare, 

And steals the wretched beggar from his want." — Lillo. 

If the spirit of ornament enter the cot of a Javan at all, it lights 
first on his bed — for the hand of fond, confiding, and devoted 
woman, can always there be traced. The bed of a Javan, what- 
ever be his pecuniary circumstances, is a fine mat (and sometimes 
several piled upon each other), with a number of pillows, taste- 
fully fringed at the ends, together with a kind of canopy and val- 



288 TOYAOs OP TBS POTOMAC. [MaTch, 

ance of Tariegaled coloore over the head. Such a bed is fit for 
a prince. TaWea, chairs, &c., are nol wanted, as ihey always sit 
cross-lfigged on a mat like the Turks, and generally convey the 
food to their mouths with the thumb and finger. KiiiTes are un- 
necessary, except for carving. The houses of the higher classes 
are furnished more conveiiieiiily, and, of course, more expensively. 
Some even indulge in the lu.\ury of tables, chairs, and looking- 
glasses, in imitation of the European settlers on the island. 

But the Jarans not only know how to build habitations suitable 
la tlieir wants, and to furnish them comfortably, but they also 
know how to manufacture many conveniences and iuiuries, for 
which they are indebted to their own ingenuity and industry ; — 
such, for instance, as cutlery, bricks, thatch, mats, cotton, cloths, 
dies, leather, cordage, paper, salt, salipeire, gunpowder, to:, 
Tlmy hkewise fell trees, hew timber, make boats, build ships, and 
worlt^ in various kinds of metals. Their fisheries are very in- 
geniously and profitably conducted ; and their markets are well 
BUpphed with these treasures of the deep, both fresh and salt ; as 
they are also with poultry, meat, vegetables, &c. 

Agriculture is an art in which the Javans are all, more or less, 
interested ; as rice is not only their principal diet, but a conspic- 
uous article in the export commerce of the island. They have 
been called, and are emphatically, " a nation of husbandmen ;" 
and the whole island is a great agricultural garden. All its wealth 
is drawn from its soil, the produce of which answers every pm^ 
pose in Java that money does in other countries. Rice, howerer, 
is the grand staple of the island, and to the cultivation of this, 
every other species of husbandry is subordinate. It is seen in 
vast fields gilding the slopes of mountains, smiling on level plains, 
and lining most valleys with the freshest verdure — gracefully 
waving to the fragrant breeze — 

" Blushing and nhruiking, like a baahful nymph, 
From Sckle Zephyi's >on and amoioui aighi, 
Bui bleiRDg. wilh the Bweelenl snule, the god 
Who woas har in the shape of mountain rilt." 

Rice cannot flourish without water, and the hill-sides of Java 
generally furnish it with a plentiful supply ; and where this is not 
the case, artificiil irrigation is easily substituted at very litUo 



4 



183S.J ISLAND OF JAVA. S89 

labour or expense. But the prospect, is not confined to, at , 
limited by, rice-fields alone ; ii is occaisionally relieved by conw | 
fields of yellow maize, and enclosures of palma cliristj^ colton^ I 
tobacco, indigo, sugarcane, cotfee-plants, pepper-vJn«a, and wheat} 1 
frequently interspersed willi gardens rich in TCgetablea of almoafc' I 
every description.' I 

A cultivator requires bnt little fanning stock ; a pair of bulfit^ I 
loes, or a yoke of oxen ; a number of sheep, goeU, fowls, dcc^ .1 
with a few rude impieinents of bushandry, comprise tlie wholt. I 
The buffalo, like the ox, " lends his patient shoulder to the yoke,'' "I 
and becomes very useful in ploughing and other agricultural tv I 
crcises where strengtb is requisite. He is of sniallei size ihrtJ 
ihe buffalo of. Sumatra, but he is also a strong, tractable animalf 
capable of long and continued exertion when not unreasonably 
exposed to the heat of die mid-day sun. Though sensitively ahy 
of Europeans — and we do not wonder at it — he submiia to be 
. managed by the smallest child of the family in which he is do- 
mesticated. He is instinctively partial to the golden leint of a 
Javan's skin, though he himself is either white or black ; those of 
the lallcr hue, being of larger size, are generally considered supe- 
rior to the other. Either from the luxuriance of the pastures, the 
greater care of the keepers, or a climate more congenial to thajp 
nature, both the buffalo and the ox appear in much iiclter cnnditioB I 
on the Island of Java, than they do in Sumatra or any other pait ' 
of India. But though the ox thrives well, the cows do not, being 
a degenerate breed, affording little or no miik beyond what is 
barely sulBcient for the nourishment of the calf. They also bow 
(heir necks to the yoke of labour, in imitation of their oppressed 
masters. 

With respect to commerce, ihe Javans, like every other half 

• " Nwhing tan he conceded mm* boauiiful to Ihe •jr*- " i™" g"t'ljiog "> 'ho 
InuginMion, than ^lo proipecl of hill ■cd dale, ef rich plnnutions snfl fiuil-lre^f 
at forest^ of nitural xtieuns ind ntiliciBl carrenti. which pteaenlB ilsElf lo the ey« 
in »vnml oF the eaiurn ud middle pronnceB. al toitit dtilinee from lh« coaiV la 
•mrin paru dF Kcdii, Sonyumat, Stmarang. Pttuimti, sod MaUng, it is dilUcuU to 
■Bf wliellier the BdmiieT of Undscipei or Ihe cultiratat of the groond will be moit 
gnUteA hy ihs Tiew, Tie whole couDlcj, u *een frain mouDMiiu of canaiderable 
elFVKion. appesri a rich, dneraifiod, and weH-wateml gwden, aniiiUlH] with 
nilUget, uKenpened with Ihe mmt Iniumnt lieldi, and conrwi wilh Uie tinuheat 
nvduie." — Raguy Jna. 



290 TOTAtts OF THE POTOMAC. [Marcfa, 

dyilized, half savage people, are limited in their Imowledge ef 
those arcana <)n which aJone its success, and prosperity generally 
depend ; and were 'this not the case, they would 3tand but Uttle 
chance in competitiom with the Dutch colonists, who directly or 
indirectly command all the resources of the island. fThe Javans 
were by nature intended for a mercantile people.; and, in obedi- 
ence to her dictates, they opened, at a very early period, a com- 
niercial intercourse with merchants of the continent for the inter- 
change of articles, to supply their mutual wants r the manufactures 
of India and China being received in payment for the natural 
productions of Java. To this intercourse, and to the feitiUty (rf 
the soil, which soon rendered the island an agricultural ceuntry, 
atagf be attributed the high degree of civilization and of advance- 
ment in the arts, which it is evident it once attiBued ; for the arts 
and sciences ever follow in the traiii of conmierce. 

** Gay commerce wared her flag, her sails unfiirled. 
And dove-eyed science ctvifized the world." — ^Fat. 

Japora, a seaport on the northeast of the island, with a good 
harbour, was the capital of a considerable kingdom when the 
Dutch first established themselves at Java. At that time three 
hundred merchant vessels, none of which were less than two 
hundred tons, were accustomed to sail to and from that port alone. 
Like every thing else, this trade also fell into the hands of the 
all-grasping Dutch colonists } and from that period may be dated 
the decline and fall of Javanese commerce. No doubt that it had 
been carried on principally in foreign bottoms, and under different 
flags. So much the better ; the Javans were never intended for 
daring maritime adventurers, but for a quiet agricultural people ; 
and their country has long been considered as the granary of the 
eastern islands.* 

The native internal and coasting trade of the Javans is still 
considerable. The produce and manufactures of the country are 
conveyed from one district to another, and to the principal sea- 

♦ " They contented themsehres-with enjoying all the advantages of a trade m which 
they incurred no chance of loss ; and thus, though their own country yielded neither 
gold nor jewels, they are said to have been plentifully supplied with these snd other 
▼aluable articles on their own shores, in exchange fer the produce of their tranquil 
Mnstry and their fertile soil/* — Raffles' History of Java. 



1332.] •• ISLAND OF JATA. 291 

ports, both by water and land-cagriage, as good roads and nayi- 
gable streams intersect each other throughout the island in many 
and varioos directions. Bazaars, or public markets, are estab^ 
lished at convenient sites in every district, and are held several 
times a week. At these markets, whieh in Europe would be 
called fairs, are frequently assembled some thousands of people, 
chiefly of the softer sex, on whom devolves the duty — would it 
were nqt so-— of conveying thither the various productions of the 
country. Sheds, shanties, and other temporary coverings of 
bamboo or thatch, are generally prepared for the accommodation 
of the people, to protect them from the rays of the sun. Re- 
freshments of every kind, including victuals ready cooked, and 
comprising most of the fruits and vegetables of the couatijv 
occupy a considerable space in the fair, and find a ready sale. 

There are many articles imported into Java from other islands in 
the Archipelago, among which arer^-camphire, tortoise--sheU, edible 
birds*-nests, bicJie de mer^ bees^wax, and gold-dust. These are 
exchanged for opium, iron, steel, tobacco, rice, salt, European and 
India goods, dec. Here are also collected, at the principal ports, 
for re-exportation, Banca tin, gold-dust, diamonds, camphire, gum- 
benjamin, and other drugis, bnrds'-nests, biclie de mer, rattans, bees'- 
wax, tortoise-shell, dying woods, sandal^wood, nutmegs, clovei^ 
mace, and other spices. 

The government of the Javans, when administered on its origin 
nal principles, is a pure, unmixed, and absolute despotism. The 
sovereign, or sultan, appoints subordinate and delegated governors 
to preside over the several provinces ; and these, like their master, 
though tenacious of power, are ever willing to surrender it for 
ease and pleasure. Their prime minister, or vizier, is the actusd 
ruler of the country, while the sultan is satisfied with flattery, 
pomp, and the seraglio. The same remark will apply to the pro^ 
vincial governors, who all have their subordinates oh a small scale. 
The people and the soil are in fact the property of the sovereign, 
but his right in this respect is not generally exercised ; and there 
are customs of the country, of which the people are very tenacious, 
and which the sultan seldom invades. Yet he being considered %M 
the sole proprietor of the soil, all lands are held of him, under 
the teniffe of miUtary service, and a certain proportion of theii^ 

T 2 



292 TOTAGB OF THE POTOMAC. • [Maichy 

produce. But since the sultan and his delegates are all more or 
less subordinate to the Dutch colonial government, the cultivators 
of the soil are made to feel the evil of a multiplicity of masters. 
The several chiefs net only oblige the peasantry to cultivate par- 
ticular articles suitable for exportation, but take from them such 
portion of the produce as will not only liquidate their own tribute, 
but also meet the terms of their agreement with the Dutch. 
Formerly they exacted one half of the produce, by way of rent, 
but they are now said to demand at least two thirds of the crop. 
Pepper and coffee are the two principal articles that are required 
to be cultivated, as best suiting the purpose of the Dutch, to whom 
they are delivered by the Javanese princes at a low rate. The 
doctrines of the Koran are the laws of the land ; while the 
executive and judicial .powers are exercised by the same indi- 
vidual. 

Since the whole island has submitted to the Dutch supremacy, 
the miUtary spirit which formerly characterized the Javans has 
gradually subsided. By the existing treaties between the Dutch 
and the native princes, the latter are restricted ta the nimiber of 
troops which they may maintam. Those of the sultan are limited 
to a body-guard of one thousand men. Such further number as 
may be requisite for the tranquillity of the country, the European 
government undertakes to furnish. Before the sultan was under 
this restriction, he used to raise such force as he wanted by a 
requisition upon the government of each province, for a specified 
quota ; in the same manner as the President of the United States 
calls on the several states when the militia are required to act in 
the defence of the nation. Thus, in a country like Java, where 
every man wears a kris, or dagger, and where the spear or pike 
is the principal military weapon, an army was easily collected in 
a few days. The gatherings of the Highland clans in Scotland 
were never effected with much greater facihty. 

The naval power of the Javans was at one period quite formi- 
dable. Previous to the arrival of the Dutch, warlike expeditions, 
eonsisting of many hundred vessels, are often reported to have 
been fitted out against Borneo, Sumatra, and the peninsula. But 
the sun of her naval glory is eclipsed. 

Of the literature of the Javans, our limits will not permit us 



1832.] ISLAND OP JAVA. 298 

to say much. Like most of the orientals, they think in poetry, 
and consequently cannot fail to speak and act it. Their prog- 
ress in the fine arts has been limited and retarded by obvious 
circumstances; but with proper culture, Heaven has endowed 
them with sufficient mental faculties for any thing. Our allotted 
course, however, compels us to leave this interesting people, and 
pay oiu- respects to ihe citizens oi civilized Batavia* 



294 TOTAOS or thb potoiuc. [March, 



CHAPTER XVI. 

Bi^ and City of Batavia — ^Fpimer Coimnerce, Wealth, .and Magnificence— Unex- 
pected Revenes — ^Description of th^ City-r-Cause of its Unhealthiness— Im- 
provements by Marshal Daendels — Beauty of the EnTirons— Villas and Roads- 
Blue Mountains — ^ViUage of Buitenzorg — ^Ruins of Pajajaran — Pc^lation of Ba- 
taria — Number and Condition of the Slaves — Chinese Industry and Festivals — 
Balians, Javans, and other Classes — Dutch Population — Frightful Mortality- 
Health of the City improved — Biographical Sketch of Daendels — European Prov- 
inces of Java — Native Provinces — ^Total Population — ^Face and Ai^arance of the 
Country — ^Mountains, Volcanoes, and Minerals — Rivers, Climate* Soil, and vege- 
table Productions — The Bohun Upas — Origin of the Fable — Poison made from the 
Sap of the Anchar — Animal Productions — Commerce, Revenue, and Pohtical 
^tate of the Country. 

The city of Batavia stands at the head of the spacious bay in 
which the Potomac now lay at anchor ; the numerous islands by 
which the shipping is sheltered, rendering it one of the finest 
harbours in the world. It is a remarkable fact, that during the 
long period it has been in the possession of the Dutch, not a vessel 
has ever been lost in the roads. The capacity of Batavia Bay is 
sufficient to contain almost any number of vessels; and its waters 
have often supported, at one time, an almost impenetrable forest 
of foreign masts. The principal islands that surround it are 
those which bear the names of Onrust, Purmerent, Kuiper, and 
Edam ; most of which are clothed with trees. On the first are 
the naval arsenal, dock-yard, storehouses, saw-mills, and work- 
shops of the artificers. This is the great marine depot, where 
ships, when they require repairs, are hove down by cranes erected 
on the whsuTiss. It is a busy, bustling place, and abounds with 
inhabitants. 

Batavia, as before mentioned, was founded in the year sixteen 
hundred and nineteen, and rose rapidly into importance on account 
of its excellent harbour, and its advantageous position for Euro- 
pean and oriental commerce, Nor was it without reason that the 
Dutch selected this spot for the capital of their new empire in 
the east. In adverting to this subject, Adam Smith thus expresses 
himself: — "What the Cape of Good Hope is between Europe 



1832.] ISLANB OF.JATA. S95 

asid every part of the East Indies, Batavia is between the principal 
countries of the East Indies. It lies upon the most firequented 
road from Hindostan to China and Japan, and is nearly about 
midway on that road. Almost all the ships, too, that sail between 
Europe and China, touch at Batavia ; and it is, over and above all 
this, the centre and principid resort of what is called the country 
trade of the East Indies ; not only of that part of it which is 
carried on by Europeans, but of that which is carried on by the 
native Indians ; and vessels navigated by the inhabitants of China 
and Japan, of l^onquin, of Malacca, of Cochin China, and the 
Island of Celebes, are frequently to be seen in its port. Such 
advantageous situations have enabled these two colonies to sur- 
mount all the obstacles which the oppressive genius of an exclu- 
sive company may have occasionally opposed to their growth ; 
they have enabled Batavia to surmotmt the additional disadvantage 
of, perhaps, the most unwholesome climate in the world." 

During the eighteenth century, Batavia was deemed the finest 
European settlement in all Asia ; and although justly considered 
unhealthy, from circumstances purely local, its wealth, trade, and 
commercial splendour procured for it the titles of " Queen of 
the East," buA the ** Tyre of the Oriental Archipelago." It was 
doubtless at the climax of its glory at the breaking out of the 
French revolution; and continued to retain that pre-eminence 
until nearly the close of the century^ But the various European 
wars which successively grew out of^ or flowed from that tremen- 
dous event, produced effects which were ultimately fek at the 
retnotest comers of the globe. 

The same extraordinary state of things which gave sueh an 
unparalleled onward impulse to the mercantile enterprise of the 
United States, partially paralyzed that of every foreign competitor. 
Those were the " golden days" of our commercial prosperity ; 
and Columbia might have exclaimed, with Lady Macbeth — 

** That which hath made them drunk, hath made me hold. 
What hath qoenched them hath givep me fire.** 

Batavia, however, had not very sensibly felt the effects of those 
devastating conflicts in seventeen hundred and ninety-three. But 
sooti after the invasion of Holland by the French, in the begin- 
ning of seventeen hundred and ninety-five, when the atadtholder 



1 



296 T0TA6B OF THB POTOMAC. [Maich, 

and his family took refuge in England, it was plainly perceived 
in Europe that the political troubles of the mother country must 
sooner or later very sensibly affect the commercial interests of 
her colonies in the east. But they, luxurious and indolent, were 
the last to perceive the impending evil ; they forgot that the sun of 
their prosperity might not always rem^ unobscured by a cloud ; 
while their proud city seemed to say in her heart, " I sit as. a 
queen, and am no widow, and shall see no sorrow" — until it came 
upop them like the suffocating sirocco of Syria, to the sudden 
^^ffostiration and almost total annihilation of their commerce. The 
' roads of Batavia became nearly deserted by shipping, while trade 
and business of all kinds were at a complete stand. Population 
dec^ned in a corresponding ratio ; of which some idea may be 
formed firoip the fact, that in seventeen hundred and ninety-three, 
the city and inunediate suburbs of Batavia contained, of all 
classes, a grand total of one hundred and fifteen thousand nine 
Jiundred and sixty souls ; while, by a census of eighteen hundred 
and fifteen, the whole population viras less than sixty thousand. 

A more eligible site, in a commercial point of view, could not 
have been selected for the city of Batavia, than the one on which 
it stands ; nor could a worse one have been chosen on account 
of health. To whatever section of the globe the Dutch emigrate, 
it has always been their endeavour to make the tastes and preju- 
dices of their faderland assimilate with the soil and climate of 
their new location. There were certainly some insurmountable 
obstacles to the indulgence of this propensity on the elevated 
banks of the Hudson ; but the temptation which presented itself 
on the low marshy shores of the Jacatra, in Java, proved to be 
irresistible. Here was a glorious opportunity for the display of 
dikes and canals, and they eagerly seized upon the facilities. It 
was an extended level of rich alluvions land, with a copious river 
serpentining through it, with so indolent a current that it could be 
diverted from its original course, and conducted in any direction 
at pleasure. This river has its rise in the Blue Mountains, about 
fifty miles south of the bay, into which it empties ; its mouth 
abounding with sharks and alligators, the latter having been known 
to upset boats, and devour the unfortunate inmates. 

The first operation of the colonists appears to have been to 
divide the stream of the Jacatra into two branches, sufiiciently 



1832.] ISLAND OF JAVA. 297 

separated to leave a spot of ground between them large enough 
for the site of their projected city. These branches were again 
united below, and the insulated space enclosed with a quadran- 
gular wall of coral rock» twenty feet in height, flanked with twenty 
redoubts for the mounting of cannon. Four great gates on each 
side opened upon drawbridges, which led to the suburbs. The 
citadel, or castle, was erected on the north side of the city, with-* 
out the walls, but surrounded by a wall of its own about thirty 
feet in height. This fortress was flanked by four bastions, the 
names of which are indicative of the vain-glorious afiectation of 
their sponsors — the Diamond, the' Pearl, the Sapphire, and the 
Ruby. But let it not be inferred that these precious appellations 
corresponded with the building materials, which were nothing but 
calcareous coral rock, and the indurated lava of some crater 
among the mountains. The walls of the citadel ificluded the 
residence of the governor-general, the chapel, aAd most of the 
public offices. 

The coral rock for these work« was brought from some of the 
neighbouring islands, as there is no stone of any kind to be found 
for many miles or in any direction around the city. The marble 
and granite used in the public edifices, were brought hither from 
China. But the patient Dutch think nothing of such importations. 
New- York was fiirst built with bricks from Holland. Bricks also 
are liberally used in Batavia, but they are manufactured on the 
island. A part of the town wall is built of dense lava, from the 
central mountains of Java. 

Many of these useless high walls, enclosing natural laboratories 
of pestilential miasmata, have been removed by orders of the late 
Governor-general Daendels ; who, during his short administration, 
did much and projected more for improving the health of Batavia, 
as well as facilitating internal intercourse and native trade through- 
out the whole island. That the health of Batavia at the period 
of the Potomac's visit was such as to warrant the commodore's 
removing the frigate to an anchorage nearer to the city, and himself 
and officers daily visiting their friends on shore, is mainly attribu- 
table to the changes and alterations efiected by the liberal policy 
of Marshal Daendels ; and had his administration continued until 
his great conceptions had all been realized, Java would have had 
reason to honour him as a philanthropist and a public benefrictor. 



S98 TOTAOK OP THE POTOMA.C. * [Maidl, 

It was he who established the new cantonment at Welterrredeni 
about three miles east of the city, and removed the troops thithery 
being convinced that the great labour and vast wealth which had 
been expended on the castle of Batavia were worse than thrown 
away, as far as health and life are concerned. The large and 
commodious citadel was therefore abandoned ; and the health of 
the troops at Weltervreden, where they have since continued, 
honours the sagacity of the governor. 

But notwithstanding these heterodox innovations in the costume 
of the ^ Queen of the East," the city of Batavia still greets the 
eye of a stranger with many attractive beauties, which become 
mere pleasing as he approaches it. Its form, we mean the ground 
plan, is an oblong square, and the streets are laid out in a corre- 
sponding manner, crossmg each other at right angles. Each street 
has its canal in the centre, the sides of which are faced with 
smooth stone walls, rising in parapets on the two margins, eighteen . 
inches or two feet. above the level of the street. A row of trees, 
dressed in perpetual verdure, which is in most cases mingled with 
firagrant blossoms and odoriferous flowers, nms parallel vnth the 
canal on each side of it, and about six feet from its margin. Along 
this shady promenade of two yards in width, there formerly stood, 
" in olden time" as we are informed, pleasant little arbours or 
pavilions, at convenient distances, where the luxurious burghejs 
uAed to sit with their friends in the cool of the evening to enjoy 
their pipes, drink their beer, and muse upon the wealth, strength, 
and magnificence of their high-walled city ; each one at the same 
time inhaling a sufficient quantity of marsh miasmata to send 
Mnunadimoted American to his long home. 

The street on each side of the canal is from thirty to sixty feet 
in width, and is a fine gravelled road, lined on the opposite side 
^ear the footpath with a corresponding row of shady and flowering 
trees. This is the general carriage-way for wheeled vehicles of 
every description, horses^ cattle, &c. The flagged sidewalk, or 
trottoir, is about six feet in breadth ; so that the whole width of 
the Batavian streets, including the canal, carriage-ways, and side- 
walks, varies from thirty-eight to sixty-eight yards. There were 
said to be twenty such streets in the city in seventeen hundred 
and ninety-three, with about thirty stone bridges over the canals. 
The style of architecture is, generally speaking, that of the Nether- 



1882.] ISLAND OF J ATA. S99 

lands, the houses being principally of one story, with high walls. 
But there are some pleasing exceptions; as Batavia contains 
many buildings which may lay claim to architectural taste and 
elegance. The stadt-house, churches, Mahommedan mosque, 
and Chinese temple, are all worthy of a stranger's inspection. 

We wonder not that the Dutch were prone to boast of Batavia, 
in the brightest days of its commercial prosperity. They were 
just the people to be proud of such a city. With what conde- 
scending self-complacency would a high bom-bur^er then act as 
a chaperon to his European guest ! He would point out as a 
master-piece of elegance in its design, the large octagon church, 
with its magnificent and fine-toned organ; its pulpit of teak- 
wood ; its curious carving and laborious workmanship ; and with 
affected nonchalance mention that it cost a mere trifle, eighty 
thousand pounds ! Then would follow the citadel, the stadt- 
house, the governor's mansion and chapeli the Lutheran and Por- 
tuguese churches, the mosque, the pagoda, the spin-house, the 
infirmary, the orphan-house, the market, and some of the burghers' 
dwellings, the canals, the city gates* the drawbridges, and the 
suburbs. The European would doubtless be dazzled, and in- 
clined to envy his hospitable host, the luxurious Batavian. 

But a very few days' experience, and a more critical inves- 
tigation- would convince the startled stranger that this fair city 
-rthis boasted mart of the world — this great emporium of ori- 
ental commerce — was but a garnished sepulchre, — ^a splendid 
lazar-house, teeming with contagion, pestilence, and death. Such 
was pre-eminently the case in the days of its brightest glory 
and proudest magnificence ! How could it be otherwise ? 
Look at its position ! So near the equator, — surrounded on all 
sides by stagnant waters, fens, bogs, and oozy ditches— every 
street intersected by canals, bordered with trees, into which every 
description of filth was thrown, with vegetable and animal re- 
mains, there to undergo decomposition in the sun, or find their 
tardy way to the sea, by channels which had scarcely any current !* 

* Independent of their noxious and unwholesome effluria, these canals were also 
sources of danger of a different and still more appalling character. Captain Amasa 
Delano, of Boston, who visited Batavia in seventeen hundred and ninety-two, has re- 
corded the following incident : — " I was standing, at noonday, in the door of tbe 
principal hotel, on one side of a canal seventy or ei^ty yards from the spot, and saw 
an alligator take achild off from Uie steps, the oppoaite nde, and eat it !'* 



800 TOTAGB OF tHB POTOMAC. [ICaXChy 

Such circumstances might possibly exist with impunity in the 
latitude of European Amsterdam, but never between the tropica. 
Add to these, — the country, for miles around Batavia, was one 
complete sheet of tope and rice-fields, which could not fail to 
produce unwholesome exhalations. Many of these nuisances 
have been corrected or abated. 

Nothing, perhaps, can be more gratifying to the eye, than the 
general appearance of the fertile country which surrounds the 
city of Batavia ; diversified with plantations, fields, and gardens, 
and embellished with villas in* the oriental style, which are sur- 
rounded by trees loaded with the most delicious firuits, and shrubs 
covered with the most firagrant flowers. The roads in the envi- 
rons are very numerous, and invariably lined with trees on each 
side, which not only give them a beautiful appearance, but render 
them very refireshing to those who make rural excursions twenty 
or diirty miles firom the city. Our officers frequently extended 
theirs to the distance of forty miles. 

Besides the several lesser roads intersecting each other at 
various points, and interspersed with several little villages and 
country-seats, there is one which was commenced by Marshal 
Daendels, and afterward carried to completion by the English, fcnr 
many miles from Batavia, through the low country of Krawang, 
intersecting, near Cheribon, the great military road, which crosses 
the Blue Mountains from Buitenzorg to Cheribon, and from 
thence along the north side of the island to its eastern extremity. 
Along this road, at intervals of less than five miles, are regular 
post stations and relays of carriage-horses. 

On the Jacatra road, which runs directly south from the city 
to Buitenzorg, near the Blue Mountains, there is, besides other 
elegant buildings, that of Goonong Sarie, the former residence of 
the old Dutch governors. The building, and the grounds belong- 
ing to it, are spacious. To the east, the eye is gratified by fertile 
plains and luxuriant rice-fields, exhibiting all that is cheerful and 
pleasant to the senses for administering to the comforts of human 
life ; while, on the opposite side, a dismal contrast presents itself 
in the vast cemetery filled with Chinese sepulchres, spreading to 
a great and melancholy extent. Numerous villas and country- 
seats also adorn the environs of Batavia in every direction ; — to 
the east, as far as Chillingchug ; and to the west, as far as Tan- 



1832.] ISLAND OF JATA. 301 

gerang, which is the boundary of the kingdom of Bantam ; while 
to the south of the city, they are scattered over a distance of forty 
or fifty miles. 

The village of Buitenzorg, on the Jacatra road, is about five 
miles northeast of Mount Salak, which is more than half way 
across the island, from Batavia on the north, to Wyn Cooper's 
Bay on the south. It was formerly an active volcano, and its 
last eruption was in seventeen himdred and sixty-one. The 
southeastern foot of Mount Salak is connected with Mount Cede, 
over the northeastern limb of which the great road was originally 
made. This laborious pass, however, occasioned great delay and 
inconvenience to the passengers, which induced Governor Daen* 
dels to project the new road, along the lowlands, from Batavia to 
Cheribon, by which the former inequalities are all avoided, and a 
distance saved of fifty miles. The route is now so level that it 
might be converted into a railroad, or be accompanied with a 
canal by the side of it.* 

Mount Salak and Mount Gede are plainly to be seen from the 
shipping in Batavia Roads ; an8 from the appearance they exhibit^ 
are usually termed the Blue Mountains, where the Jacatra takes 
its rise, about sixty miles south of Batavia. Near the village of 
Buitenzorg are the celebrated ruins of the ancient capital of 
Pajajaran, among which, several curious antiquities have been 
found. This city, according to Javanese tradition, was founded 
about the year thirteen hundred, and soon became the capital of 
the kingdom and seat of the royal court. It was overthrown by 
the Mahommedans, in their conquest of Java, and many of the 
inhabitants fled to Cheribon. Among the curious relics which 
have been discovered among its ruins, were several rude images 
and inscriptions on stone. Sir Thomas Raffles mentions, also, an 
ancient manuscript, a copy of which he took home to England^ 
containing drawings of pagan deities, the twelve signs of the 
zodiac, and numerous other astronomical (or astrological) devices^ 

* This line of roads now extends from Anyer, on the west side of Bantam, to 
Batayia, from thence to Cheribon, and thence to within twenty miles of Baxxy^* 
wxngi, the eastern extremity of the island, being a distance of not less than eight 
hundred statute miles. Bat we regret to add, that tweWe thousand natiTes an said 
to haTe perished in the construction of this great woriL, from the unhealthineat 
of marshes and forests through which it passed ! 



302 70TA0B OF. THE POTOMAC. [March, 

He also mentions the remains of intrenchments by whkk the city 
was defended, and which are still plainly to be seen near the 
ruins. The Jacatra road is cut through several of them. 

The population of Batavia and its immediate vicinity, accord- 
ing to a census taken by the British goverpment, in the year eigb* 
teen hundred and fifteen, is computed at sixty thousand. At the 
period of the Potomac's visit, in eighteen hundred and thirty-two, 
it was said to amount to ten thousand more, but probably overran 
that number. We will therefore proceed on tibe supposition that 
Batavia and its suburbs contain seventy thousand souls. This 
population is divided, or divisible, into several different classes^ 
of which the slaves are by far the most nuinerous, and therefore 
deserve to be fii^t noticed. 

The slaves on the Island of Java are either foreigners them- 
selves, or the immediate descendants of foreigners; as the native 
Javans are never reduced to this condition; or, if they should 
happen to be seized and sold by pirates, a satisfactory proof of 
their origin would be sufficient to procure their enfranchisement. 
The slave-merchants have, therefore, been under the necessity of 
resorting to the neighbouring islands for a supply, and the greatest 
number has been procured from BaU* and Celebes. These 
slaves are the property of the Europeans and Chinese alone ; the 
native chiefs never require the service of slaves, nor engage in 
the .traffic of slavery. There are not less than twenty thousand 
of these unfortunate beings in Batavia. 

The next class of foreigners which claim our notice, both for 
niuxibers and industry, is composed of Chinese, either emigrants 
or their mixed descendants, as they are not allowed to bring any 
Chinese women with them. About a thousand or more used to 
arrive annually at Batavia, from China, in Chinese junks, carrying 
from diree to five hundred each, without money or resources, who 
by dint of their industry, soon acquired comparative opulence. 

* " This disgraceful traffic, it may be hoped, will soon be entirely annihilated. 
While it existed in its full rigour, all prisoners taken in war, all who attempted to 
erade the laws .by emigration, all insolvent debtors, and a certain class of thieves, 
were subjected to the sad condition of slavery. These laws still subsist, and are 
enforced, as formerly, for the purpose of procuring the home supply ; but the dimi- 
nution of the foreign demand must limit exceedingly their exercise, and in a short 
time ameliorate the state of the unhappy individuals who have suffered'by them.*' — * 
R^/Us* Java. 



1832.] ISLAND OF JATA. 808 

From the city, i^any of them dispersed oyer the whole island, 
which possibly now contains more than one hundred and fifty 
thousand of them. Many return to China annually in the junks, 
but comparatively a small proportion. There are at least sixteen 
thousand of this class in Batavia, who live in a separate cempongy 
under a chief of their own nation. They are among the most 
useful and industrious of the inhabitants ; indefatigable in their 
pursuits, and eagerly bent on making money. In their hands are 
^ all the manufactures, and nearly all the retail trade of the city, 

or of every other place where they are located ; and their labours 
contribute largely to the prosperity of the island. They are 
hated by the Javans and Malays, because^ they are constantly 
overreaching their less industrious and unsuspecting neighbours ; 
and hence it is not to be wondered at that these tribes should 
seize every opportunity to inflict virrong and even outrage upon 
them. From the Dutch' they have suffered many unjust exac- 
tions and cruel oppressions, which have more than once goaded 
them into acts of insurrection and rebellion, for which they were 
dreadfully punished. Witness the massacre of seventeen hundred 
and forty. 

The Chinese compong comprises the whole of the southwest^ 
em suburbs, and is very extensive. Among them, every house 
is a shop, and the streets exhibit a constant scene of noise and 
bustle. Their captain, or hingko, has a number of lieutenants 
under him, who assist in regulating the police of this numerous 
population. As the emigration of Chinese females is expressly 
pr(^ibited by the government, they either marry among the na- 
tives, or purchase slaves for their wives. They are called great 
cheats by the natives, although in their intercourse with foreigners 
they are polite and wellbred. Among the colonists they are not 
usually employed as servants. They are distinct from the natives ; 
and are, in a high degree, more intelligent, more industrious, more 
enterprising, and much more luxurious than the Javans or Malays. 
They are, in fact, refined epicures in their way ; and their tables^ 
three times in a day, are loaded with rice, curry, fish, pork, fowls, 
!^ ducks, together with all kinds of vegetables. The higher orders, 

especially, indulge in every luxury, and spare no expense in pro- 
curing any thing calculated to please the palate. Edible birds'- 
ne&iB^biche de mer, and other luxuries, however costly, are always 



i 



% • 



304 YOTAOX OF THE POTOMAC [Much, 

fimnd on the table of a wealthy Chinese Tolnptuary ; and they 
are acknowledged to be hospitable. 

Their festivals are very grand and imposing, especially the one 
in celebration of the new year, which continues from the first to 
the twentieth of February. On this occasion, the streets in the 
Chinese compong are thronged with carriages and crowds of 
men, women, and children, of all classes, countries, colours, and 
denominations, who parade the illuminated streets until late at 
night« For eight or ten days during this festival, business is at 
a stand, and every house is a scene of festivity. The wealthy 
spread richly-furnished tables, at which the Europeans firequently 
partake ; while the hosts, by every means in their power, try to 
show how much they are pleased with the attendance of their 
guests. Various mountebank exhibitions are performed on large 
stages erected for the purpose. Their marriage ceremonies are 
conducted with great splendour ; and though the most of them 
have been colonized in the island for centuries, they retain, in all 
respects, their national customs. 

Next to the new year, the burials are the greatest festivals 
among the Chinese in Java ; and these are solemnized according 
to the rank of the individual deceased. An immense multitude 
attend the interment, carrying images of men and women resem- 
bling the deceased members of the same family, while a numerous 
procession of priests, accompanied by musical instruments, pre« 
cede the' corpse. The cemetery of the Chinese extends over an 
immense surface of soil on the southeast side of the city^ 
They allot a separate piece of ground for each subject, and raise 
over it a mound of earth in shape of a crescent, carved and oma^ 
mented according to the wealth and importance of the deceased. 

To these sacred repositories, the Chinese, as an indispensabk 
duty, pay an annual visit ; which mournful ceremony takes place 
in April. Stages are erected, from which th^lgests deliver there 
funeral orations in honour of the dead ; j r^^BS'*'^^^ 
of Jacatra, over which their cemetery exti 
ing spectacle of multitudes of people { 
merous tombs, which are decorated vf 
viands and firuits as offerings, and bowing 
Although they have a temple, i-^ « 

burning tapersi they do not i 




\* 






I8a2.] ISLAND OF JATA. 305 

fonn of worship. Every house has, probably, its own altar, and 
its own collection of idols, as in China ; the form, number, and 
quality of which are generally in proportion to the taste of the 
head of the family to select, and his ability to purchase. 

The third class of aliens, adhering to the same numerical de- 
crease in numbers, is composed of Baliansy or Baliers, who 
originally sprang from the inhabitants of Bali^ a small island on 
the east of Java. They are very different from those of their 
unfortunate countrymen who have been sold to slavery, which 
condition ever, more or less, degrades the human character. In 
their native state of freedom^ they are active and enterprising, 
and free from that listlessness and indolence which are observable 
in the Javans, Although of the same original stock, they exhibit 
several striking differences in their characters, features, and per- 
sonal appearance. Their mamiers are said to appear abrupt, up- 
ceremonious, coarse, and repulsive to a stranger ; but upon further 
acquaintance this becomes less perceptible ; and their undisguised 
frankness conunands reciprocal confidence and respect. 

In their domestic relations they are amiable, respectful, and( 
decorous. Their wives are treated with tenderness and respect, 
and their children with mildness and gentleness, and they are 
strangers to the vices of drunkenness, libertinism, and conju- 
gal infidelity. In a word, they are distinguished for energy, 
honesty, and an irrepressible love of independence. There are 
probably above ten thousand of this class in the city of Batavia 
and its suburbs, who arc divided into compongs, under their re- 
spective overseers. The Balian slaves are valued highly in Ba- 
tavia, on account of being considered more trustworthy than 
others, particularly the females, from among whom the Chinese^ 
of note generally choose their wives. 

The Javans, of whom there are about four thousand five hun- 
dred in the city of Batavia, occupy two compongs, each under' 
the immediate control of separate and independent chiefs. Some 
of them are fishermen ; but in gene:ral they are cultivators of thef 
soil. 

There are probably near four thousand Malays in Batavia, wh<y 
are generally traders, navigators, and builders of small proas^ in 
the construction of which they are said to be very expert. Ai^ 
before intimated, they are passionately fond of cockfighting, and 

u 







v*» 



306 YOTAox OF THE POTOMAC. [March, 

almost every other species of gambling, and do not hesitate to 
risk their last possession on a single bet ; being often driven by 
their losses to acts of desperation and horror. Gambling-houses 
are licensed by the Dutch, from which they derive considerable 
revenue ; thus tolerating these nurseries of vice, and then sitting 
in judgment, and punishing with torture the victims of crime 
and guilt. The Malays have their quarter of the town allotted to 
them in the same manner as the Chinese, and are subject to the 
inunediate authority of their respective captains. 

The Macassars, originally from the Island of Celebes, where 
the Dutch have a considerable settlement called Fort Rotterdam, 
are another class in the city of Batavia, amounting to more than 
two thousand of both sexes. Their countenances, particularly 
those of the females, more nearly resemble the Tartar features 
than any other. The intercourse of these islanders with the na- 
tives of Java seems to have been ancient and frequent ; and they 
are represented as active and enterprising traders. 

The Buggt$j or Bugges^ are from part of the same island, and 
their number in Batavia is supposed to be about equal to that of 
the Macassars. They are represented as a treacherous, quarrel- 
some, and revengefrd race ; the same may be said of the Mclccls^ 
sars^ whom they in many respects resemble. Their valour has 
been often test^, and the reputation which they hold in the east 
is a parallel to that which the Swiss formerly held in Europe ; on 
which account the Dutch formerly enlisted many of them into 
their army. 

The Arabs are not numerous in Batavia — perhaps not over five 
hundred; and there are numbers of them also in Palembang, or 
Balambuan, at the eastern extremity of the island, on the Strait 
of Bali. They are generally engaged in the coasting trade, and 
are represented as by no means deficient in commercial intelli- 
gence. 

There are also here about two hundred and fifty SumbdwaTf 
from an island of that name on the east of Java, the third from 
Bali ; about the saioe munber of Mandharese, from the district 
of MancUtr, in the Island of Celebes ; perhaps one himdred Am- 
bonese and Bandas, from Amboyna and Banda; and a few 7Y- 
morese and ButanesCy from the Island of Timor, &c. The num- 
ber of Moors in Batavia is not supposed to exceed one hundred 




1832.] ISLAND OF JAYA. 307 

and fifty. These are natives of the Coromandel and Malabar 
coast. They appear to be the remnant of a once extensive class 
of settlers ; but their numbers have considerably decreased since 
the establishment of the Dutch monopoly. The Amboynese oc- 
cupy a compong on the left of the Jacatra road ; some of ibem 
are Christians,* — are less stubborn than the Bugges, and have in 
modem times been found to make better soldiers. The Mardy-^ 
hers are natiVies of different nations or tribes, who, having obtained 
their fireedom, live in the city. Many of them are employed in 
the coasting trade, and others are successful cultivators of the soil/ 

The burgher class comprehends the Dutch population at Ba<« 
tavia, but is so much mixed up with Portuguese and Malay col-' 
onists, that, as a mass, they can scarcely be called Europeans^ 
The same may be said of other towns on the coast, indeed of 
the Dutch settlements in general throughout the east. To a large 
proportion of these residents the mother country is only known 
by namie ; particularly to the ladies, few of whom have ever be€& 
in Europe. Their features, and the contour of their faces, be-* 
speak Earopean origin ; while their complexion, character, and 
mode of life approach nearer to those of the natives. Though 
fair, they have none of that healthful ruddy hue seen in Europe 
and the United States ; but a pale sickly languor overspreads their 
countenances. The number of this class in Batavia, always in- 
cluding the suburbs, is probably now not more than three thou^ 
sand, though in seventeen hundred and ninety-three it exceeded 
six thousand, at which period the whole population was estimated 
at one hundred and sixteen thousand ; out of which died annually 
four thousand. 

The fatality of the Batavian climate has been without a par-^ 
allel in history. This city has been designated the storehouse 
of disease ; with how much justice, a few melancholy but au-* 
thentic facts will clearly demonstrate. Between the years seven-* 
teen hundred and fourteen and seventeen hundred and seventy-' 
six, a period of fifty-two years, there perished in the hospitals of 
Batavia above eighty-five thousand sailors and soldiers j and fit)m 
the year seventeen hundred and thirty to seventeen hundred and 
fifty-two, a period of twenty-two years, the total amount of death* 
was more than a million! 

The physical ^d immediate causes of this mortality aie^iobr 

u2 



»"V 



808 V0Y4GB or THB POTOMAC. [Marcfa, 

yiouB, and have already been alluded to ; but the more remote 
moral and political causes must be sought for in that mistaken 
policy ai the colonial goTemment, which, in order to maintain its 
commercial monopoly, kept the European population confined 
within tlie narrow walls of this unhealthy city — ^where they were 
compelled to reside as prisoners in a pesthouse. But from the 
moment that a more liberal and humane policy was introduced 
under the administration of Governor Daendels, when the walls 
of the city were demolished, the drawbridges let down, and free 
egress and ingress to and from the country permitted, the popula- 
tion began to migrate to a more healthy spot ; and tibey had not 
to go aboye one or two miles beyond the precincts before they 
found themselves in a different climate. 

Since the date of these changes and the clearing of the coun- 
try in the vicinity, together with the draining off the surrounding 
stagnant waters, Batavia has been, and still is, a comparatively 
healthy city ; completely so in the daytime, and all persons of 
respectability get through their business and retire to their villas 
in the neighbourhood before the heavy dews of evening begin to 
descend, and meet and mingle with the rising vapours of the 
city's marshy foundation. Few places in the east, or between the 
tropics in any part of the world, are more healtiby and beautiful 
than the neighbouring villas and country-seats. Had the Dutch 
adopted this plan in season, how many thousands of human lives 
had been preserved or prolonged ! But we will dismiss this sub- 
ject with a few words respecting Governor Daendels. 

William Herman Daendels was bom in the year seventeen 
hundred and sixty-two, at Hattem, a town of Holland, in Guelder- 
land, seated on the Issel, four miles southwest of Zwoll. At the 
age of twenty-five, he took an active and important part in the 
troubles which began in Holland in seventeen hundred and eighty- 
seven, on the side of the patriots, with a number of whom he was 
compelled to take refrige in France. In seventeen hundred and 
ninety-three-, he was appointed to the new legion of volunteers, 
and was of great service to Dumourier, in his expedition against 
Holland. He rendered still greater service to Pichegru, in the 
campaign of seventeen hundred and ninety-four, which made the 
French commander master of all Holland. He now became 
lieiilanant-giBneial ia the service of the new Batavian republic, 



18d2.] ISLAND OP lATA. 809 

and todc an important part in the change of the government. 
When Louis Bonaparte became King of Holland, in eighteen 
himdred and six, at the age of forty-four, he was appointed Gov- 
ernor-general of Batavia, as before stated. He was recalled by 
Bonaparte in eighteen hundred and eleven, and afterward pub* 
lished a history of his colonial adnunistration in two volumes, 
quarto, which we believe has never been translated into English. 

The next subject which naturally presents itself for our con- 
sideration is the manner in which the Island of Java has been 
divided. 

The two natural and grand divisions of Java are the eastern 
and western, which are nearly two equal portions of the island ; 
separated by the river Losari on the north side, and the river 
Chitandui on the south, in long. 108^ 52^ east, about two hun- 
dred and forty miles from Java Head, in the Strait of Sunda. 
That part of the island which. lies east of the Losari is called 
Java by the natives, who designate the western division by tbe 
name of Sunda. Such was the division when the whole island 
comprised only two distinct kingdoms, each governed by a power- 
ful and independent sovereign ; and between the descendants of 
those two nations there is still a marked and striking distinction. 
Those provinces which are now under the immediate authority 
and administration of the European government, are the western, 
the northern, a few inland districts, and the Island of Madura, on 
its northeast coast ; the rest of Java, comprising the southeastern 
provinces, is still subject to the native princes. 

Those portions of the island which are under European au* 
thority, are divided into sixteen residences, or separate adminis- 
trations, including the seat of the colonial government. 

1st. Bantamy comprising three thousand four hundred a^ 
twenty-eight square miles, and containing two hundred and thirty- 
one thousand six hundred and four inhabitants. This division 
comprises the northwestern section of the island, being washed 
on three sides by the sea and the Strait of Sunda, including 
several dependant islands scattered along its shores, with bays and 
harbours. The town has been deserted by the European estab- 
lishment, which has removed about seven miles inland, to a more 
elevated and healthy station, called Sirangy or Ceram. 

2d. Batavia and its environs, including Buitenzorg, comprising 



810 YOYAOE OF THE POTOMAC. [MaTch, 

two thousand four hundred and eleven square miles, and four hun- 
dred and eight thousand three hundred and twenty-seven inhab- 
itants. This division comprises what formerly constituted the 
native province of Jacatra. The city of Batavia is the capital, 
and the seat of the colonial government. 

dd. Batavian and Priangen Regencies y comprising ten thou- 
sand square miles, and two hundred and forty-three thousand six 
hundred and tweaty-eight inhabitants. This division, .which is 
extremely mountainous, lies southeast of that just mentioned, and 
extends from the Blue Mountain ridge to Wyn Cooper's Bay on 
the south coast, and frt)m thence eastwardly to the river Chiwulan. 

4th. Cheribon, comprising thirteen hundred and thirty-four 
square miles, and two himdred and sixteen thousand inhabitants. 
This division extends across the island from north to south, at the 
point where its breadth, by an abrupt indentation of both coasts, is 
suddenly reduced from one hundred to fifty miles, its narrowest 
part, except one across the province of Probolingo, near the east 
end of the island. Cheribon, on the north coast, is the capital. 

5th. Tegaly comprising twelve hundred and ninety-seven square 
miles, and one himdred and seventy-eight thousand four hundred 
and fifteen inhabitants. This division, which is bounded on the 
n<»:th by about fifty miles of seacoast, extends southwardly to 
the centre of the island, with Cheribon on its west and Pakalon- 
gan on its east. The town of Tegal, on the north, is the capital. 

i6th. Pakalongan^ comprising six hundred and fifty square miles, 
and one hundred and fifteen thousand four hundred and forty- 
two inhabitants. This division, which is also bounded on the 
north by the Sea of Borneo, extends southwardly between Tegal 
on the west and Semarang on the east. Ulujami, on a river of 
the same name, is the capital. 

7th. Semarang, comprising eleven hundred and sixty-six square 
miles, and three hundred and twenty-seven thousand six hundred 
aifd ten inhabitants. This division is bounded by Japara and the 
sea on the north, Pakalongan on the west, Kedu on the south, 
'•nd Grobogan on the east. Kandal, on the river Bodri, is the 
capital. 

8th. KedUf comprising eight hundred and twenty-six square 
miles, and one hundred and ninety-seven thousand three hundred 
and ten inhabitants. This division is bounded by Semarang on 



1832.] ISLAND OF JAVA. 311 

the north, Kertasura on the east, and the native provinces on the 
south and west. Probolingo is the capital. 

9th. Grobogan and Jipangy comprising twelve hundred and 
nineteen square miles, and sixty-six thousand five hundred and 
twenty-two inhabitants. This division is boimded by Japara on 
the north, Gresik and Surabaya on the east, Kerta Sura on the 
south, and Semarang on the west. Grobogan is the capital. 

10th. Japara, comprising one thousand and twenty-five square 
miles, and one himdred and three thousand two hundred and 
ninety inhabitants. This division comprehends a peninsula which 
juts out on the north side of the island, at the point of its greatest 
breadth; it being here one himdred and thirty-five and a half 
miles wide, between the southwest point of Pachitan Bay and 
the north point of Japara. Japara is, of course, washed on three 
sides by the sea ; which, with Repibang, bounds it on the east, 
Grobogan being on its south, and Semarang and the sea on its 
west. Jawana, on its northwest, is the capital. 

1 1th. Rembang, comprising fourteen hundred square miles, and 
one hundred and fifty-eight thousand five hundred and thirty in- 
habitants. This division is boimded by the sea on its north, by 
Gresik on the east, by Jipang on the south, and Japara on the 
west. Rembang, on a river of the same name, is the capital. 

12th. Gresik, comprising seven hundred and seventy-eight 
square miles, and one hundred and fifteen thousand four hundred 
and forty-two inhabitants. This division includes Point Panka, 
the northeastern extremity of the island, at the entrance of Ma- 
dura Strait. It is, of course, bounded on the north by the sea, on 
the east by the strait, on the south by Surabaya, and on the west 
by Rembang. The town of Gresik, on the strait, is the capital. 

13th. Surabaya, comprising twelve hundred and eighteen 
square miles, and one hundred and fifty-four thousand five hun- 
dred and twelve inhabitants. This division is bounded on the 
north by Gresik^ on the east by the Strait of Madura and the sea, 
on the south by Pasuruan and the native provincet, and on the 
west by Jipang. The town of Simibaya, which has an excelleQl 
harbour, is the capital. It is near the principal mouth of a river 
of the same name, the second in magnitude of the whole island, 
which discharges itself into the Strait of Badua by five outlets, 
whick form as many separate rivers. 



31S YQTAGE OF THE POTOMAC. [March, 

14th. Paswruanj comprising ninetejen hundred and fifty-two 
square miles, and one hundred and eight thousand eight hundred 
and twelve inhabitants. This division is bounded on the north 
by Surabaya and the sea, on the east by Probolingo, on the south 
by mountains, and on the west by the native provinces. The 
town of PasuruaUy near the coast, is the capital. 

15th. ProbolingOt comprising two thousand eight hundred and 
^fty-four square noiles, and one hundred and four thousand three 
hundred and fifty-nine inhabitants. This division is bounded on 
the north by the sea, on the east by Banyuwangi, on the south by 
the Indian Ocean, and on the west by Pasuruan. The town of 
Probolingo, on a river of the same name, is the capital. 

16th. jBanyutoan^*, comprising twelve hundred and seventy- 
four square miles, and eight thousand eight hundred and seventy- 
three inhabitants. This is the last European division, and is the 
eastern extremity of the island ; bounded on the north by the sea, 
on the east by the Strait of Bali, on the south by the Indian 
Ocean, and on the west by Probolingo. The capital is a tovm 
of the same naine, on the strait. 

The native provinces contedn eleven thousand three hundred 
and thirteen square miles, and one million six hundred and fifty- 
seven thousand nine hundred and thirty-four inhabitants ; and the 
Island of Madura, comprising two residences, has twelve hundred 
and sixty square miles, and two hundred and eighteen thousand 
six hundred and fifty-nine inhabitants. Total number of square 
miles in Java and Madura, forty-five thousand seven hundred and 
twenty-four. Total population, four million six hundred and 
^teen thousand two hundred and seventy. 

The face of the country presents a bold outline of prominent 
features. The same series, or range of mountains, which char- 
acterize Sumatra, is continued through the whole length of the 
Island of Java ; varying in their height from five to twelve thou- 
sand feet above the level of the sea. The round bases and pointed 
conic tops of these gigantic elevations indicate their volcanic 
origin ; and some of their craters are still in a state of partial 
mflammation, breathing sulphureous vapours and smoke ; others 
are extinct. The last eruption of Mount Salak was in seventeen 
hundred and sixty-one ; that of Chermai, in Cheribon, in eighteen 
hundred and twenty-five; that of Lomongon, in Probohngo, ip 



N 



1832.] ISLAND OF JATA. 313 

eighteen hundred and six ; that of Gunter, in Priangin, in eigh- 
teen hundred and seyen. The Papondayang, in the western part 
of Cheribon, was formerly one of the largest volcanoes in the 
island; but the greatest part of it, according to Dr. HorsfS* 
field, was swallowed up in the earth, after a short but very 
severe combustion. Many of the flying inhabitants were in- 
gulfed with it. 

^ There are, likewise, extensive ranges of moui^tains of an infe- 
rior elevation, sometimes connected with the larger series, and 
sometimes not, which are also volcanic. The whole country it 
traversed by ridges of hills, in various directions ; and is every- 
where undulating and uneven. 

<- 4JthoUgh thp width of the island does not admit the formation 
of very largelifvers, still Java can boast of some of respectable 
magnitude. There are as many as fifty, on which, in the wet 
season, rafts of timber, and other rough produce of the country, 
are floated to the coast ; and not less than half a dozen of these 
are navigable several miles into the interior. There are no lakes 
of any considerable size on the island, although in the wet season 
many extensive swamps assume that appearance. Althou^ the 
northern coast is in many parts flat and uninteresting, the interior 
and southern provinces are mountainous, and present a picture 
of much diversified and romantic scenery. The prospects from 
the highlands, in many places, may challenge the world to pro- 
duce any equally sublime and beautiful. 

Unlike her divorced partner, Sumatra, the constitution of Java 
is unfavourable to metals, and neither diamonds nor precious 
stones of any description are to be found on the island. Many 
minerals of the schorl, quartz, potstone, feldspar, and trap kind, 
however, exist in the mountains of secondary elevation, towards 
the southern shores of the islands, sometimes in extensive veins. 
Prase, homstone, flint, chalcedony, hyalite, jasper, jasper-agate, 
obsidian, and porphyry, are foimd in various situations. 

The climate of Java is various ; being hot and sultry along the 
seacoast, but cool and pleasant further inland. In penetrating the 
interior from the city of Batavia, we feel, at the end of every five 
miles we advance, a sensible improvement in the atmosphere and 
climate ; at every step, we breathe a purer air and survey a 
brighter scene. On reaching the higUamls in the neighbourhood 



314 YOTAGB OF THS POTOMAC. [March, 

of Boitenzorg, we find an atmosphere that retains its freshness 
in the hottest season. Here the boldest features of nature are 
softened by the rural arts of man ; for the labours of the moun- 
tain farmer have clothed the scene with the rariegated garb of 
enchantment. 

At Salatiga, in Semarang, the seventh division, and in many 
other inland towns, the air is said to be sometimes uncomfortably 
cool, and ice as thick as window-glass has been seen in the 
mountains. At Weltervreden, a short distance east of Batavia, 
the thermometer is generally at 86* during the dry season, or 
southeast monsoon, which extends from April to October ; and 
from 83" to 90* during the wet monsoon, from November to March. 
In the mountains about Chipanas, south of Buitenzorg, and only 
sixty miles from Batavia, the thermometer generally stands at 65*, 
sometimes less, but seldom exceeding 70*. There jis a constant 
succession of sea and landbreezes. The first prevail from ten 
in the morning imtil four or five in the afternoon, after which it is 
calm for two or three hours, when the landbreezes commence, 
and continue until near morning. The seabreezes are fresh and 
healthy ; but not so the landbreeze, when it comes over exten- 
sive marshes and swamps, of which there are many on the north 
side of the island. The most pleasant and healthy season is from 
May until October. 

The monsoons are not regular. Heavy rains do not set in, in 
some seasons, until December, in which case the heaviest are in 
the months of February and March. The wet season is naturally 
the period of germination, and the dry season that of fructifica- 
tion ; and wherever there is sufficient moisture, the sun is, at aD 
times, powerful enough to quicken vegetable life. During the 
rainy season there are many days free from showers, when the 
morning^ are generally clear, as during the dry season, the atmo- 
sphere is refreshed by occasional showers, and the landscape is, 
at all times, covered with the brightest verdure. From all that 
has been said on the subject of climate and health in the Island 
of Java, the general inference which has been drawn by profes- 
sional men is, that the country at large " stands on a level, in 
point of salubrity, with the healthiest parts of British India, or of 
any tropical country in the world." The term of life among the 
matives is nearly as long as it is in the United States. Many 



1832«] ISLAND OF JATA. 315 

persons, of both sexes, attain the advanced age of seventy or 
eighty, and some complete a century and upwards. 

The soil of Java is as remarkable for its richness and its depth, 
as it is for the great abundance and almost infinite variety of its 
productions. It generally resembles the richest garden mould, 
and but little labour is required to cover it with a luxuriant crop 
of whatever the cultivator pleases. The deepest and richest 
moulds of Java are alluvial soils of the valleys, near the bases 
of the loftier moimtains. In such spots they are found from ten to 
twenty, and sometimes to even fifty, feet deep. It is scarcely ne- 
cessary to observe that mountains of great height, being colder 
than the atmosphere at the same elevation, attract the passing 
clouds, abstract firom them their caloric, and so cause them to 
descend in showers.* Thus, in these equatorial regions, perennial 
streams are continually pouring down the mountains' sides, teem- 
ing with the causes of fertility, by being impregnated with the 
mountain soil, and furnishing ample means for irrigating the plains 
below. To the concurrence of. these causes the Island of Java 
is indebted for its peculiar fecundity. The richest mould is of 
an ash colour, and is found, as before intimated, at the bottom of 
valleys, between lofty mountains. On the plains and gentle de- 
clivities, the soil is of a darker hue, probably containing too great 
a proportion of vegetable matter, and is of an inferior quality. 
Everywhere, the plains and mountains are covered with gigantic 
forests, fruit trees, or luxuriant herbage. 

The vegetable productions of Java are too multifarious for 
even an attempt to enumerate the whole ; and we - must, there- 
fore, content ourselves with mentioning a few of the most useful 
and abundant, viz : — Rice, upland and lowland ; maize, or Indian 
corn ; wheat, beans, potatoes, cofifee, sugar, pepper^ indigo, cotton, 
hemp, tobacco, ginger, anise, cummin, cubebs, aocha-delicious, 
kachang-goring, or catjang, palma christi, &c. Of fruits, we will 
name the mangusteen, or mangoostan, the most fascinating to the 
eye and gratifying to the taste of all the firuits in the east, or per- 
haps the woild.t The mango, which grows on a large spreading 

* See Dr. Metcalfs New Theory of Terrestrial Magnetiim, pages 11, IS. 

t The maogosteen [gareinia numgoitana] is the peculiar production of the Indian 
Islands, and all attempts to propagate it elsewhere have proTed unsoccessfuL It has. 
been of late years tried at Madras and CakutU; and attempU to cultivate it in 



316 TOYAGE OF THE POTOMAC. [Marcb, 

tree somewhat like the English walnut, and has a delicious 
flavour. The rambootan and the poolasang, or red firuit, which 
are cool and agreeable, of a delicate subacid flavour, and quite 
refreshing in a tropical climate. The cocoanut, tamarind, pome* 
granate, roseapple, guava, annona, date, banana, jack-firuit, doorian, 
durian, or duren, boa-lansa, pineapple, lanseb, papaw, custard- 
apple, &c. Oranges, citrons, shaddocks, lemons, and limes, are 
plenty; and in some provinces, peaches, Chinese pairs, and rasp- 
berries. 

The flowers of Java are celebrated for their beauty and fra- 
grance. There is a tree called the mitchelia tchampaca, of two 
varieties, one of which bears white and the other yellow flowers, 
of exquisite odour. The coral-tree puts forth large clusters of 
scarlet flowers ; while the magnolia, the melja, and bignonia, pre- 
sent a showy and elegant appearance. Among the innumerable 
flowers which bloom in perpetual succession, are the champaka, 
tanjong melati-kananga» and nagasari, which are used by the 
natives as ornaments, and are remarkable for their fragrance. The 
myrtle and rose are found in the gardens of the Europeans. 
^ Large tracts of the island, particularly in the eastern provinces, 
are covered with forests of that excellent timber called teak, 
which has long been celebrated for its strength and durability in 
ship-building, Sec. It is said to be in these respects every way 
equal to live oak, and even superior in the fineness of its grain 
and beauty of its colour. It is of difierent shades, from light to 
intense brown, with a cast of violet, verging sometimes to red or 
black ; and furnishes excellent materials for handsome cabinet- 
work. This tree is slender and erect ; shoots up with consider- 
able vigour and rapidity, but increases in diameter very slowly, 
and is many years, at least a century, in arriving at maturity. It 

the Isle of Frtnce were made as early as the jetr seventeen hundred and fifty-four. 
'^ wild Tariety of the mangusteen is found in the wood of Java and Celebes, but the 
true mangusteen appears to be a native of the western portion of the Archipelago only. 
It refuses to grow in some of the Spice Islands, and thrives but indifferently in others. 
The latitude of Lnsong, in tbe Philippines, is the highest in which it is brought to 
grow. Like the more useful plants of rare occurrence in the state of nature, the 
mangusteen is universally, or very nearly so ; having no other than manggis, mang- 
pn, or manggusta, evidently modifications of one term. The wild fruit is known 
by different names firom the cultivated, and those names differ in each language.— 
Ormofor^M EmiUm Arek^dago, 



1832.] ISLAND OF J ATA. 817 

neither lores the mountain nor the vale, but grows at a moderate 
elevation above the level of the ocean. 

There are several other kinds of timb^-trees employed for 
various domestic purposes, many of which bear beautiful flowers 
of delicious fragrance. There are some resembling our red 
cedar, pitch-pine, white-wood, larch, hickory, ash, &c. There are 
others which resemble rose-wood and satin-wood. There are 
several which furnish excellent masts and spars for shipping. The 
kusambi is heavy, hard, and close, and is suitable for vessels' 
blocks, pestles, "dec. The sawur resembles mahogany, but has a 
closer grain. The pilang is another very hard wood, and is em- 
ployed instead of lignumvitee. The pung, equally hard, is used 
by builders for pegs, pins, and treenails. The janglot is considered 
by the natives as the toughest wood produced in the island, and 
is always employed for bows when procurable. In short, Java 
produces wood of nearly every texture, weight, and cotpur, and 
suitable for all purposes. There are but few resinous trees in 
Java, and the camphire-tree, which abounds in Sumatra, is here 
unknown. The bamboo, or bambu, or pring, found in all tropical 
countries, grows here in great abundance ; and from the greater 
luxuriance and variety by which it is here distinguished, no doubt 
finds a soil peculiarly congenial to its growth. The rattans are 
said to be inferior to those of Sumatra. 

Besides the trees already alluded to, we would name the palm 
of numerous kinds, the mimosa of many varieties, the bread- 
fruit, the aren, the plantain, and the soap-tree. The frxut of the 
latter is used to a great extent in washing. The kasemak, which 
produces a varnish for umbrellas ; the sampang, from the resin <^ 
which the natives also make a transparent varnish ; the bombaz, 
or cotton-tree, which bears a long pod* containing a silky substance, 
which is much used in stuffing |h11ows, mattresses, cushions, otto* 
mans, &c. The wax-tree produces an oil resembling wax, which 
may be either burned in lamps, or converted into candles, as it be- 
comes bard by age. The bendud is a shrub, and produces the 
substance of which the elastic gum is made, commonly called 
India-rubber ; the art of preparing it, however, is unknown in 
Java. It makes excellent torches, and is used in that way by 
those who explore caverns to hunt for edible birds'-nests. The 
tallow-tree grows abundantly in some parts of the island. There 



818 ToTAOB OF THE POTOMAC. [March, 

is no doubt that Java would produce many of the spices which 
• abound in the Moluccas, particularly the nutmeg and clove. The 
vine was once extensively cultivated in some of the eastern prov- 
inces of the island; but\he Dutch East India Company discour- 
aged it, because they then possessed the Cap>e of Good Hope, 
where the business would be more profitable. 

It is doubtless expected that before we leave this subject, a word 
ihould be said respecting the far-famed Upas-tree^ of Java ; for 
though the/a6/e, for such it was, in detail, has long been exploded, 
it is not every reader that knows on what basis the romantic fic- 
tion was erected. A Dutch surgeon, by the name of N. P. Foersch, 
was, according to his own account, in the service of the Dutch 
East India Company, at Batavia, in the year seventeen hundred and 
seventy-six, and having heard much of the terrible efiiects of the poi- 
son of the bokan upas^ resolved to ascertain the fact whether there 
* was such a tree or not. The result of his alleged investigation was 
first published in an English dress, in a very popular London 
periodical, called the Gentleman's Magazine, in seventeen hun- 
dred and eighty-three, firom which it was copied into almost every 
similar publication on both sides of the Atlantic He professes 
to relate nothing but facts of which he was an eyewitness, as 
"I was resolved (says he) to trust only to my own observations.** 

Foersch describes the very location of this "hydra-tree of 
death" as being only eighty miles from Batavia, and sixty firom 
Tinkjoe, which woidd place it on the map of Java in the area of 
a triangle formed by Mount Tankuban, Mount Maruyung, and 
Mount Tilo, — ^near the line of the great military road, occupying 
about the centre of our third division of Java. He says, " I have 
made the tour all around this dangerous spot at about eighteen 
miles firom the centre, and I found the aspect of the country on 
all sides equally dreary." He conversed with the old Malayan 
priest who prepared the criminals to go on their perilous embassy 
after the poison, and was assured by him that out of great num- 
bers he had sent, not more than one out of ten survived to return ; 
with some of these the surgeon also conversed. He describes 
the upiiS'tree as the sole individual of its species, standing alone, 
in a scene of solitary horror, on the middle of a naked blasted 
plain, 8unx>unded by a cvcle of mountains, the whole area of 
which is covered with the skeletons of birds, beasts, and men. 



18dS.J ISLAND OF JATA. 319 

Not a yestige of yegetable life is to be seen within the contami- 
nated atmosphere ; not even a sobtary spear of grass ; and that 
even the fishes die in the water. But even of the progenitors of 
this finny tribe he gives us no information. The divinity of 
Darwin's muse has consecrated this fable in the following beauti- 
ful lines : — 

*' Fierce, in dread silence, on the blasted heath. 

Fell Upas sits, the hydra-tree of death ! 

Lo, from one root, the envenomed soil below, 

A thousand Tegetative serpents grow ! 

In shining rays, the scaly monster spreads 

0*er ten square leagues his far diverging heads ; 

Or in one trunk entwists his tangled form. 

Looks o'er the clouds, and hisses in the storm ; 

Steeped in fell poison, as his sharp teeth part, 

A thousand tongues in quick vibration dart ; 

Snatch the proud eagle, towering o'er the heath. 

Or pounce the lion as he stalks beneath ; 
. Or strew, as martial hosts contend in vain, 

With human skeletons the whitened jdain.** 

But as even the classic fictions of antiquity, when figuratively 
and rightly understood, have their origin in truth, so has this more 
modem Dutch fable of the bohun upas. Vegetable poisons, it is 
well known, exist in almost every part of the world, particularly 
in the tropical regions. On the Island of Java there are several 
difierent species of shrubs and plants which exude matter delete- 
rious to animal life. To each of these the natives have appUed 
the appellative upas^ which is a word in their language signifying 
poisonous. Thus the ubi upas, means a poisonous potato ; and 
the seed of a certain tree is called upo^ bidjee, in English, j^oison- 
ous seed. But there is a tree, says Dr. Horsefield, common to 
the eastern provinces, and one of the largest trees in the forests 
of Java, from the sap of which a poison is madey ** equal in fa* 
tality, when thrown into the circulation* to the strongest animal 
poisons hitherto knovim. The tree which produces this poison is 
the anchar, and grows in the eastern extremity of the island. 
The anchor belongs to the twenty-first class of Linnseus, the 
moncRcia. The stem is cylindrical, perpendicular^ and rises com- 
pletely naked to the height of sixty, seventy, or eighty feet ; at 
which height it sends off a few s(out branches, which, spreading 



J 



830 TOTAOB OF THB POTOMAC. [Maxch, 

nearly horizontally, with several irregular curves, divided into 
smaller branches, and foma a hemispherical, not very regular, 
Crown. It delights in a fertile, not very elevated soil, and is only 
found in the largest forests^ One of the experiments to be related 
below was made with the upas prepared by myself. In the 
collection of the juice I had some difficulty in inducing the in- 
habitants tp assist me ; they feared a cutaneous eruption and in- 
flanunation, resembUng (according to the account they gave of it) 
that produced by the ingas of this island, the rhus vemix of Japan, 
and the rhus radicans of North America. The anchar, like the 
trees in its neighbourhood, is on all sides surrounded by shrubs 
and plants : in no instance have I observed the ground naked or 
barren in its inmiediate circumference. The largest tree I met 
with in Balambangan was so closely environed by the common 
trees and shrubs of the forest in which it grew, that it was with 
difficulty I could approach it. Several vines and cUmbing shrubs, 
in complete health and vigour, adhered to it, and ascended to nearly 
half its height ; and at the time I visited the tree and collected 
the juice, I was forcibly struck with the egregious misrepresenta* 
tion of Foersch. Several young trees, spontaneously sprung from 
seeds that had fallen from the parent, put me in mind of a line in 
Darwin's Botanic Garden : — > 

« < Chained at his root two scion-demons dwell ;* 

while in recalling his beautiful description of the upas, my 
vicinity to the tree gave me reason to rejoice that it was founded 
in fiction." 

Of the animal kingdom, Java has her fall share, proportioned 
to the size of the island. Among the beasts of prey are found 
several species of tiger, the leopard, the wild-cat, the jackal, and 
several varieties of the wild-dog. Also, the rhinoceros, and enor- 
mous large alligators, which deserve the name of crocodiles. 
These abound in the rivers, and are such objects of terror to the 
natives, that like their reputed progenitors, the Egyptians, they 
pay them adoration. That species of the boa-constrictor called 
the anaconda is also said to be found in the forests, some of them 
thirty feet in length, which suspend themselves from trees and 
swallow young boflfaloes and wild-dogs whole. The woods also 
abound with hedgehogs, squirrels, weasels, lizards, and various 



4 882. J ISLAND OF JATA. 321 

species of the monkey ; among which are the orang-outang and 
wow-wow. Here are also found the stag, deer, wild-hog, wild- 
ox, and buffalo ; the rase, which produces musk, and the bezoor. 

Among the useful and domestic animals are the horse, the 
cow, and the ox. Neither the elephant nor the camel is a native 
of Java; the former is rarely imported, the latter unknown. 
Neither the ass nor mule is found ; the island has a fine breed of 
small horses, strong, fleet, and well made. Bulls, cows, buffaloes, 
goats, sheep, and hogs, are plenty. Turkeys, geese, ducks, com- 
mon fowls, and pigeons, abound on every farm. Here are also 
herons, falcons, crows, owls, peacocks, &c. The woodlands are 
tenanted with upwards of two himdred different species of birds, 
from the tiny hummingbird to the large emen, or cassowary, with 
every intermediate size ; many of them are of beautiful plumage, 
and some of exquisite song. Here are found parrots, paroquets, 
Argos pheasants, crested pigeons, and the fulica pauphrio ; also, 
the oriolusy or golden thrush ; the cdcedo, or kingfisher, the Java 
sparrow, or rice-bird ; and several sorts of the bird of paradise. 
Likewise, the swallow, which builds the edible nests so highly 
valued by the Chinese. Besides the reptiles already mentioned, 
here are twenty different kinds of poisonous serpents ; together 
with scorpions, centipedes, toads, and frogs. 

The exports of the island are rice, sugar, coffee, pepper, 
indigo, teak, timber and plank ; spices, which are brought from 
the Moluccas, tin from Banca, cotton, yam, salt, edible bird's- 
nests, which are produced in abundance, particularly in the hilly 
districts stretching through the Bantam country, and in the do- 
minions of the emperor and sultan. 

The imports are European articles of every description, chintses, 
silks, hats, tea, Japan goods, and China-ware, opium from Bengal, 
tin from Banca, &c. &c. On the establishment of the British 
authority in Java, great changes were made in the internal policy 
of the country, particularly in the mode of collecting the revenues, 
tenure of landsj &c. The deUvery of goods at an inadequate 
rate, and all feudal services, were abolished ; and lands, according 
to local circumstances, were leased out for a moderate term 
of years. 

According to these rates, the land rental, exclusive of Batavia, 
on the kingdom of Jacatra, amounted, in eighteen hundred and 



I 

• 



MS 70TAOE OF THB POTOMAC. [MtTcl^ 

fourteen, to three millions eight hundred and eij^ty-three thou- 
sand six hundred and fifty-one rupees; and after deducting the 
amoiuit of lands provisionally gnmted to chiefiBi there remained a 
net land rental of three millions six himdred and sixty-three thou- 
sand six hundred and eleren rupees ; add to the proceeds of farms 
and fixed taxes, provisionally continued, and the territorial revenue 
of the eastern provinces alone, virill amount to four miUions two 
hundred and six thousand three hundred and forty-one rupees; 
in addition to this, salt, q>ium^and customs, including tovm-duties 
in these prqvinces, and die total will be five millions three hun- 
dred and sixty-eij^t thousand and eighty-five rupees. The other 
great branches of revenue of Java are die teak forests, which are 
extensive and valuable. Those in the central districts, ceded on 
the &11 of Djoejocarta, afford employment to no less than two 
hundred thousand labourers. 

The political state of Java, after all the changes and revob- 
tions it had experienced, had settled into a quiet calm previous to 
the arrival of the Potomac. Since its last cession to the Dutch, 
in eighteen hundred and fifteen, the insurrectionary movements 
of one of the native princes had occasioned an intestine vrar, 
which had been, in some instances, very sanguinary. In quelling 
this insurrection, the Dutch are said to have lost not less than 
thirty thousand well-disciplined European troops. The native 
chief who raised this disturbance is represented as an able 
warrior and a desperate man ; and so much was he feared by the 
Dutch, that they set a price on his head. Despairing of success, 
he finally surrendered himself with all his force, and was honour- 
ably treated by the Dutch. 






r 



1888.] UATB B4TATIA. 838 



CHAPTER XVII. 

Leaying Batayia — ^lUneM of the Commodore's son— >-Once more at eea — Calms and 
opposing currents — Drag the bottom for shells — ^Augmentation of the sick-list- 
Heat of the weather — Caspar Straits^ — ^Tardy progress in the China Sea — Har- 
assing duty — Cross the equator — Island of St. Barbe — Pulo Aor — Sickness and 
death — ^Terrific thunder-storm — ^Death of N. K. G. Oliver, Esq. — Funeral obse- 
quies — Contribution for his family — Tedious calms, and oppressive heat — ^In- 
creasing mortality — Dreary prospects — Cheering sight of a sail — Speak an English 
bark — Mutual interchange of courtesies — ^A vertical sun — Coast of China — 
Canton Bay — ^A Chinese pilot — Anchor in Macao Road. 

The Potomac lay anchored at Batavia, from the twentieth of 
March until the tenth of April, a period of twenty-one days ; 
during which time the commodore and officers had an opportu- 
nity of seeing much of the inhabitants and of the adjacent coun- 
try. They had shared the hospitality of their own countrymen, 
of Europeans, and of the colonists ; visited all the places of in- 
terest and curiosity, and taken notes of whatever they thought 
worth remembering. They had witnessed the ciuious religious 
ceremony of the Chinese, in walking barefooted over coals of fire ; 
they had made many excursions into the country, to the distance 
of forty miles ; had visited the governor at his palace, and en- 
joyed the wild, rich, and luxuriant scenery of its neighbourhood. 
In one word, they had luxuriated on every innocent and rational 
enjoyment which this " garden of the east" could bestow ; and 
yet every bosom experienced a thrill of delight when the inspiring 
word was given — " all hands ^ unmoor /" For every one felt sus- 
picious of the land breezes of Batavia, and ardently panted once 
more to inhale the pure air of the ocean. 

The commodore's little son, a fine lad, in the tenth year of his 
age, who accompanied his father on the present expedition, was 
seized with the Batavia fever on the first of April, having fallen 
asleep in a draught of air while in a state of perspiration on shore, 
at a villa some distance from the city. For several days the 
youthful sufferer was not expected to recover, and during this 
painful suspense, the commodore, who was constantly with him 

x2 



894 YOTAOl OF THB POTOMAC [April, 

on shore, delayed naming a day for the sailing of the frigate. 
The crisis at length took place, ivhich ^as succeeded by a fayour- 
able change, so that on Monday, the ninth of April, the lad was 
so far convalescent as to be conveyed on board the Potomac, 
which sailed on the following morning. 

During her stay at Batavia, the sick-list had increased to forty- 
one, and two had died, who were buried on a neighbouring island. 
The invalids on board were principally afflicted with dysentery, 
and young Downes, the conmiodore's son, was the only individual 
who experienced an attack of the Batavia fever, which finally, 
on the passage across the Pacific, changed to an intermittent, from 
which he did not recover until he passed through the process of 
having the smallpox, on the coast of Chili. 

On Tuesday morning, the tenth of April, a little after daylight, 
the anchor was weighed and the frigate got imder way. The 
wind being light, every sail was spread to catch its soft breathings, 
as the gallant ship moved slowly on the glassy bosom of Batavia 
Bay, standing directly north. At meridian, the South Watcher 
Island bore north-by-west-half-west. This island is about twenty- 
seven miles from our recent anchorage. 

On leaving Batavia, the Strait of Sunda, or Malacca, during 
the months of March, April, or May, the navigator will most prob- 
ably be doomed to experience a long and unpleasant passage to 
China. Though the strength of the northeast monsoon may have 
greatly relaxed in its force, the currents may still be unfavourable, 
and the calms which are liable to happen between the two mon- 
soons often render a passage most perplexingly tedious. Had 
not the various incidents of the voyage delayed the Potomac in 
her departure from the Sunda Isles, the commodore would have 
been compelled to take another and very different route than that 
through the China Sea. During the months of January or Feb- 
ruary, it would have been almost impossible to make way against 
the northeast monsoon, either by the inner route, along the 
coast of Cochin China, or by Macclesfield Bank through the 
China Sea, so that he would have been compelled to go through 
the Straits of Macassar, and leaving the great Island of Borneo, 
as well as Luconia, to the west, again stood in to the north- 
west, through the channel of Formosa, and from thence to Lintin 
and Canton river. The lateness of the season, however* did not 



> 



1888.] STRAITS OF GA8PAK. 3S5 

make this route necessary ; and though many prefer the inner 
passage between the Islands of Banca and Sumatra, the conmio^ 
dore determined to proceed through the Straits of Gaspar, and 
the middle of the China Sea. 

On Wednesday, the eleventh, the Potomac made but little 
headway ; the wind was light, varying from northwest to northeast: 
at seven in the evening she came to anchor in twenty-four 
fathoms water, and veered to fifty fathoms chain cable. The 
next morning she was under way at an early hour ; wind light, but 
fair, and at seven o'clock A.M., passed the South Watcher 
Island, about three miles distant. A short distance to the north- 
west of the South Watcher Island lie the Thousand Islands ; a 
group or chain of numerous small islands extending from north- 
west to southeast, that bound the west side of the passage be- 
tween the North and South Watcher Islands. There are many 
dangerous shoals around them, to which a good birth should be 
given. Pulo Etau is the most westerly, and is separated from the 
other islands. A squall, with heavy rain, occurred on Wednes- 
day night. 

On Thursday, the twelfth, two Chinese junks were seen stand- 
ing to the southward and eastward. The lead was now kept con- 
stantly going, finding scarcely any variation from thirteen to fifteen 
fathoms water. The northeast monsoon was now entirely gone, 
being succeeded by light winds, with sultry and enervating weather. 
The current too, which had been put in motion by the wind blow- 
ing several months in the same direction, still continued its op- 
posing course at the rate of half a mile an hour. Even light 
showers, attended with thunder and lightning, scarcely seemed to 
give any relief to the oppressive influence of the sultry atmo- 
sphere. On this and the following day the frigate's drag was put 
in requisition, for the purpose of getting possession of such curi- 
ous shells as might be found on the bottom. The experiment 
was successful, and many beautiful specimens of conchology 
were added to the collections of the commodore and his ofiicers. 

The fourteenth and fifteenth passed heavily ; the frigate being 
most of the time anchored with a kedge, waiting to catch the first 
puff of air that could move her through the water. The sick-list 
had now swollen to the nimiber of fifty-one, being every tenth 



t* " 



1 



ta6 TOTAOB OF THX POTOIIAC. [Apii]^ 

mil on board, and mie poor fellow had just been consigned to 
his watery sepulchre, after an illness of only twenty-four hours. 

On Sunday, the fifteenth, at three o'clock in the morning, the 
frigate encountered a strong squall firom the northwest The 
heavy waters seemed to be once more in motion; but in less 
than three hours it was calm again ; and at noon it was found, by 
obserration, that she had only made four miles in the last twenty- 
four hours ; that she was in latitude 4* W south, and was less 
than one hundred and twenty miles finmi her starting-place at 
Batayia. The weather this day was ezcessiTcly warm, the ther- 
mometer in the shade standing at 84*. 

On Monday, the sixteenth, the frigate's progress was accel- 
erated by what the sailors call cafs-pawsy Ught pufis of wind, 
vrhich pushed her forward to within ten miles of Entrance Point, 
which is the southeast angle of the island called Pulo Leat, or 
Middle Island, separating Macclesfield's Strait firom Clement's 
Strait, These two straits, generally known under the single ap- 
pellation of Gaspar, the name of the Spanish captain who made 
the passage in seventeen hundred and twenty-four, are formed by 
the Island of Banca on the west, and BiUiton Island on the east 
These two islands are about fifty miles apart, and between them 
are two smaller ones, called Long Island and Middle Island, the 
first being near BiUiton, and the other near Banca. Gaspar Island 
is about twenty-five miles further north. The passage between 
Banca and Pulo Leat, or Middle Island, is the one which is gen- 
erally called Macclesfield's Strait, and the one through which the 
Potomac passed into the China Sea. She entered this strait on 
Tuesday, the seventeenth, which placed a distance of only two 
hundred and twenty-five miles between her and Batavia. The 
passage between Middle Island and Long Island is called Clem- 
ent's Strait ; and both together form Gaspar Straits, in the plural 
number. 

p On Wednesday, the eighteenth, the frigate had so fine a run as 
to pass sixty miles to the north of Gaspar Island, which is in 
latitude 2" 25' 30" south, and is the principal landmark in passing 
this strait ; as it has a high peaked hill rising from its surfiice, 
which may be seen at the distance of thirty miles. The Potomac 
was now about three hundred miles north of Batavia. 

On Friday, the twentieth, it was a perfect cahn ; and the sea 



9 '•' *J- -<» , 



1832.] SLOW PROGRESS. 387 

was so utterly motionless, and at the same time so clear an4 
glassy, that it had the appearance of an immense circular mirror, 
or a huge girandole, bounded by the horizon. It reflected the 
rays of the sun with a fer?our painfully intense to the eyes, when 
they chanced to encounter the angle of incidence. A number of 
sea-snakes were seen playing round the ship, and pursuing their 
gambols, regardless of the mighty mass of spars and canvass 
which was towering above them. During four tedious days, the 
ship's headway did not average one knot per hour. The heal 
was oppressive; no variety to relieve the dull monotony; the 
sick-list was large, and still increasing. The history of one day 
is a specimen of the rest. 

From one to three A. M., calm ; the ship riding by her kedge- 
anchor. The day advances — ^the sun attains his meridian, and 
passes over — no intervening cloud to avert or intercept his direct 
and scorching rays — ^no curl, no ripple on the water — a wide- 
spreading, glassy surface appears to reflect back the heat — ^no part 
of the ship seems to offer a cool retreat. The sick are swung in 
cots on the gundeck — the surgeon and his assistants constantly 
employed. At half past five, a light breeze springs up ; all hands 
are called to " up anchor /" — all sail is set to the dry and feeble 
breeze. At six, calm — ^let go the kedge, to hold our own, and 
prevent the current's cheating us of the little we had gained. At 
half past seven, light airs again from the northeast ; and again the 
boatswain calls, " all hands, up anchor /" Until three A. M., the 
light airs continue. At half past three, came too with the kedge 
— ^not a breath of air. At half past seven, the breeze sets in, 
when the oft-repeated call resounds through the ship — "A// hands^ 
up anchor ! and make sail /" The lead constantly going in from 
seventeen to twenty-two fathoms, muddy bottom. 

Thus it continued, hour after hour, and day after day, while the 
gallant Potomac lingered near the equator, as if unwilling to re- 
enter the northern hemisphere on a meridian so far from that of 
her mountain home — her towering spars being antipodes to the 
Virginia forests, in which they grew. She finally crossed the 
equinox, on Sunday, the twenty-second of April, in longitude 
107" T east. The same kind of weather continued until the first 
of May, when the Potomac was in latitude 6* 33' north, being 
seven hundred and sixty-two geographical miles north of Bala?i% 



$g8 TOTAOX 07 THE TOTOUkC. THay^ 

equal to eight hundred and sejenty-five statj^te miles, avestging 
less than two miles an hour for twenty days ! At times, the very 
atmosphere seemed to be a sheet of fire, and the httle spanows, 
in their migrations from one island to another, would perch upon 
the frigate's rigging, panting for breath. A current generally set 
against the course of the frigate, which rendered it necessary tp 
come to anchor so often, in order to hold on, and cling with a 
miser-like tenacity to every inch attained by the little cap's-fiill 
of wind which occasionally passed. This rendered the ship's 
duty very arduous and harassing, both to officers and men. 

During this run, if a snaiPs pace may be so called, several 
islands were passed, which only deserve notice as landmarks to 
the mariner. St. Barbe is seven miles north of the equator, in 
longitude 107** 15' east; it is about three miles in length, high, 
bold, and of triangular form. When viewed at a distance, it as- 
sumes the appearance of three small islands, on account of two 
depressions on its surface. There is said to be anchorage on 
its east side, where water may be procured, and occasionally some 
fine green turtle. The St. Esprit group of islands Ues in about 
0* 34' north, to which the frigate gave a wide birth, as no accurate 
surveys have been taken of them. In passing the north, middle, 
and south Anambas Islands, she kept about midway between them 
and Singapore Straits on the west. 

The Island of Pulo Aor, in latitude 2'' 30' north, longitude 
104" 34' east, has attained some notoriety as a point of departure 
for ships bound to Canton, and, for which vessels generally steer 
on their homeward-bound passages. The island is small, but 
high, and covered with trees. The bay, on the northwest side, 
affords good shelter and anchorage during the northeast monsoon, 
and vessels often stop there when unwilling to enter the Strait 
of Singapore during dark weather. In passing Pulo Aor, the 
Potomac stood farther to the east than tlie usual track of vessels. 

On Wednesday, the second of May, the frigate was in latitude 
?• 10' north, longitude 105" 16' east, more than one hundred miles 
fiurther west than when she crossed the equator. The sick-hst 
had not increased, but several cases of dysentery were rapidly 
approaching a fatal termination. The untiring and indefatigable 
assiduity of the gentlemen composing the medical department, 
tended to cheeky so far as human agency could produce that 



1888.] nSATH OF MR. OUTBR. 8f9 

effect the ravages and fatal consequences of the disease. One 
seaman expired at half past nine o'clock that morning, and was 
consigned to a watery grave at half past five the same afternoon, 
with all appropriate ceremonies. Had the frigate, dming this 
period, been in the midst of a *' dead sea," she could scarcely 
have remained more sluggishly on the water. All the elasticity 
of the air seemed to be gone, and every one suffered from the 
extreme lassitude produced by the heat ; and the sick were par- 
ticularly affected by it. 

The scene was soon changed ; for in the early part of the night 
clouds began to gather and thicken; and before midnight, the 
elements above and around seemed on fire ; so terrific a thunder- 
storm had not been witnessed during the whole cruise. The air 
was overcharged with electricity ; and flash after flash poured 
forth, illuminating the whole ocean for miles around, while the 
rain fell in torrents — ^and this continued, with but little intermis- 
sion, until morning. 

** Loud, and more loud, the rolliiig peals enlarge, 
And blue on deck their blazing sides discharge, 
Now in a deluge bursts the living flame, 
And dread concussion rends the ethereal frame ; 
The skies asunder torn, a deluge pour, 
Amid the electric blaze, and thunder's roar.'* — ^Falconss. 

It was a night long to be remembered ! Not that the frigate 
had encountered a typhoon, or run upon rocks or shoals, but that 
the grim messenger, death, had been among her inmates ! At 
about nine o'clock in the evening, the commodore's private sec- 
retary, a man much respected and beloved by all who knew him, 
N. K. G. Oliver, Esq., breathed his last ! — far from his home — 
his wife — his children — and all that he held dear ! For a long 
time before leaving the United States his health had been delicate, 
and the hope of improving it was the principal inducement which 
caused him to abandon his domestic enjoyments for a voyage roiufid 
the world. Consumption, that insidious foe of human hopes and 
pleasing anticipations, had been wearing and frittering away fais 
constitution.. His strong and highly-cultivated mind refrised to 
participate in the weakness of his body, but retained its vigour 
and cheerfulness until the last moment of his existence. 

Among the loose papers of the deceased was found a scrapi on 



1 



TOTAOS OF TBB POTOHAC. [Majf 



winch was wntten the fdlowing memofandiim, daled Friday, the 
twenty-seTenth day of April, only five days befnre his death : — 
^ To-day we are passing the Middle, ot Great Anambas, with a 
pleasant little breeze, which we consider to be the southwest 
monsoon. If so, our run to the Celestial Empire will he com- 
foratwely shortP His ran to that empire was indeed short ! — 
and for a long time prenoos to the fatal erent, he seemed to hare 
a presentiment of the final result of his disorder. On another 
loose paper was written the following, dated Norember the 
eloTenth, eighteen hundred and thirly^ne :— " My disease in the 
throat is in a dangerous state ; I begin to fear for the conse- 
quences. We have a tiresome and almost hopeless calm. One 
thing, howerer, makes me happy. It is the birthday of my little 
Billy. God bless my poor Willy ! When shall I see him again ! 
Far — ^far away is he — and I, all alone on the ocean billow, yes — 
all alone, though surrounded by half a thousand." . 

Although this melancholy event had been long expected by his 
friends on board, yet when the moment did come, they felt, se- 
verely felt, how little they were prepared for it ! Indeed, when 
it was publicly announced, the gloom which settled upon the 
countenances of all, together with the solemn gaze of the crowd 
of officers and men collected around the bed of death, spoke in a 
language which needed no utterance, to show in what high esti- 
mation he was held by all on board. 

On the following day, which was Thursday, the third of May, 
at eleven o'clock in the forenoon, his mortal remains were sunk 
beneath the billows of the China Sea — receiving a sailor's burial 
and a sailor's grave, in latitude 7* 32' north, longitude lOS' 62' 
east. The corpse wa.*? borne to the gangway by the officers, who 
formed in procession on the maindeck, while the men gathered 
in groups to witness and to hear the funeral ceremony. While 
the procession was ascending from the gundeck to the spardeck, 
die band, with muffled drums, played a mournful and solemn dirge. 
The marines had been drawn up on the side of the quarterdeck, 
and during the solemnities of the funeral service, remained at a 
"rest on arms reversed." The service was performed by the 
chaplain, Mr. Grier, in the most impressive and solemn manner. 
After the ceremonies were over, and the body conmiitted to the 
deep, three volleys were fired by the marines. 



1832.] BVRUL. 8S1 

There is something connected with a funeral at sea that calls 
forth ail the fine sensibilities of the heart. When, on shore, we 
consign the remains of some loved one to their narrow clay-made 
couch, and turn firom the place made for all living, we do not feel 
the separation so severely. We can return to the spot, and the 
very scene around wUl awaken the slumbering memory, as the 
many virtues of the deceased will again pass in revision before 
us ; and it is then, if the departed possessed any foibles, we can 
so easily forgive them. 

" Pensive memory then retraces 
Scenes of bliss for ever fled, 
Lives in former times and places, 
Holds conmiunion with the dead.'* 

Not SO as regards the sea-buried mariner. Beneath the ever- 
restless waves, cradled in some " oozy corner of the deep," he 
finds his long resting-place. Though his memory may be cher- 
ished most fondly by relations and friends, yet his grave is far 
distant and unknown. The spot cannot be designated, much less 
can we watch the early progress of the spring flowers, so em- 
blematic of another spring of life, or watch their decay beneath 
the chilly frosts of premature autumn, reminding us that we too 
must die. The very nature of the burial-place is calculated to 
impress every one with the deepest feelings of awe ; the ship, 
tossing on amid high and faithless billows, agitated by winds still 
more fickle. But what matters it whether his requiem he chanted 
amid the thick foliage of the cypress, or by the harsh-sounding 
gale, since the promise has gone forth — " I am the resurrection 
and the life," and, " The sea shall give up her dead." 

" Give back the lost and lovely — those for whom 

The place was kept, at board and hearth, so long ; 
The prayer went up through midnight*s breathless gloom. 

And the vain yearning woke midst festal song. 
Hold fast thy buried isles — thy towers o'etthrown — 
But all is not thine own. 

** To thee the love of woman hath gone down — 
Dark flow thy tides o'er manhood's noble head. 
O'er youth's bright locks, and beauty^s flowery crown ; 

Yet must thou hear a voice — * Restore the dead !' 
Earth shall reclaim her precious things from thee — 
* Restore the dead, tlvm 8«a !* " 



YOTAOB or THB POTOMAC. O^^f 

It was known that the deceased left a wife and seTeial small 
children to mourn his loss, and that they were in a comparatively 
helpless condition. The commodore, who had long been ac- 
quainted with his late secretary, and holding him deservedly in high 
estimation, felt disposed, if possible, to do something on board for 
the relief of the widow and orphans at home, who had suffered this 
recent and irreparable loss. The officers and crew being assem- 
bled on the quarterdeck, the commodore, whose feelings were 
full to overflowing, explained to them the condition of the family 
of the deceased, and that those who felt disposed might contribute 
something to be forwarded to them. Many tears were seen 
trickling down weather-worn cheeks; and on a paper carried 
around among themselves, about two thousand dollars were sub- 
scribed for this purpose. 

On the same evening that Mr. Oliver breathed his last, in about 
an hour afterward, another of the crew was also relieved from his 
sufferings by death. But it would be an unpleasant task to follow 
the movements of the Potomac, or to record the bodily or mental 
sufferings of her inmates, in this part of her passage through the 
China Sea. Let it suffice that there still followed, in regular 
routine, the ever-tiring calm ; the light baffling wind ; the sudden, 
but momentary squall; the hot scorching sun; the clear and 
glassy sea, &c. ; for of such were the days composed in un- 
varying succession. Perhaps, for a few moments, four or five 
knots were marked on the line. In the next, the frigate was 
lying motionless — her long and tapering spars reflected in beau- 
tiful outline on the mirror-like ocean — so still — so smooth — that 
she resembled some spectre hanging in the centre of an immense 
crystalline sphere ! 

On Saturday, the fifth of May, the Potomac was in latitude 7* 
42', longitude 105" 59'. The heat still continued intense ; and 
the thinnest clothes were worn, even on duty. The lightest curl 1 

upon the water was hailed as the harbinger of the coming breeze ; 
and when the lofty sails did fill, joy beamed from every counte- 
nance, animation in every eye, firom the slight impulse of onward i 
motion ! A few moments, and all was still again ; the sails, with i 
scarce a tremoiur, hung flat against the masts. Then might be | 
seen the officers and the men, lying listlessly here and there — 
sighing for the breeze that would not come. 



1 



1882.] A BAIL IN SIGHT. S8t 

Stilly little by little, the Potomac crept towards the north, until 
Saturday, the twelfth, when a brisk breeze firom the southwest 
came curling along the ocean's surface, and the water was once 
more seen foaming around the bows of the Potomac. Hitherto, 
the sick-hst had continued on the increase, and dreary indeed was 
the prospect which the gundeck presented, with its double row of 
cots. JPew that have not been on the lone ocean, with a malig* 
nant disease raging on board, can form any just conception of the 
scene of misery that five hundred souls, cooped up in the narrow 
limits of a ship, in such a climate, presents ! Ever and anon» 
the dreary sound of the boatswain's voice could be heard, calling 
all hands to bury the dead. This at-all-times-melancholy note, 
was dreadfully so, when each day another and another was added 
to the list of those who had already fallen victims to the relent* 
less disease. 

The Potomac was this day in latitude 10* 45' north, and, for 
the first time on this lingering passage, the tedious monotony 
under which every one languished was relieved by the exhilara* 
ting announcement firom the mast-head, of " Sail, ho !" A sail is 
always a grateful sight at sea ; and, at this time, it was rendered 
doubly so from the dreariness of the Potomac's passage. '' A 
sail!" — What emotions are called forth at the sound! — what a 
tumult of feeling ! A fellow-pilgrim on the great highway of 
nations — perhaps firom home — firom our own dear native land. 
May she not be the bearer of letters — news — something to excite^ 
to relieve the mind ? But there was nothing of this to call up 
our softer feelings at this time. She was a stranger — but a 
stranger on a weary voyage, like that of the Potomac — and this 
alone was sufficient to call forth the kindred feelings of fellowship. 

Reader, in order to appreciate the feeling, it is necessary to be 
placed, at least in imagination, in a similar situation.* Seest thou 
that small white speck on the distant horizon, rising and falling 
like some small sea-bird ? — ^It is the bark of the daring sailor ! — 
Mark the white folds of her upper canvass ! The breeze is fair, 
and on we dash to greet her. Now, her topsails, courses, and all 
her high and tapering spars, stand forth in perfect symmetry ! 
From her peak flutters, in deep red folds, her brightly-gleaming 
ensign ! It bears the cross of St. George ! It is the flag of Old 
England. 



TOTAOB or THB POTOMAC. fHajy 

The Potomac approached the stranger in a gallant and conr- 
teoQS style, and Uie customary salutations were mutually inter- 
ohanged. She was a fine, fastnaiailing bark, built in Calcutta, and 
expressly intended to encounter the contrary currents and maiii» 
soons of these seas. Again were the sails of the Potomac filled 
by the fineshening breeze, and as she wared a graceful adieu, her 
band on deck saluted the stranger with '' God save the King.* 
This passing compliment was received with an enthusiastic burst 
of feeling. In an instant the bark's numerous passengers swarmed 
upon deck — every hat was o£f — ^her topsails were lowered, as a 
mark of reciprocal courtesy — as the stars and stripes waved 
doBely past her, the music ceased, and three hearty cheers firom 
the stranger were as cordiaUy reciprocated firom the American 
firigate. 

These little incidents and nautical civilities, though trifling in 
themselves, are not unimportant in their efiiects ; as they tend to 
smooth down the rough edges of national prejudice. In addition 
to this, the excitement was highly pleasing, and a great relief to 
that apathy of feeling which was so generally experienced by all 
on board the Potomac. 

The breeze continued faithful, so that on Wednesday, the six- 
. leenth, the Potomac was in latitude 19* 3' north, longitude 115"* 
east. As the sun's north declination was also this day 19** 3', at 
twelve meridian, the Potomac was under a vertical sun. On the 
following day she made that point of land which is generally the 
first seen on a passage to Canton, known by the name of the 
Ass's Ears ; it derives that appellation from two peaks rising firom 
a small island, which, seen at a distance, bear a strong resem- 
blance to the ears of a donkey. 

On Friday, the eighteenth, the Potomac passed near the La- 
drone Islands, in firont of Canton Bay, that celebrated haunt of 
robbers and pirates, so long the dread of merchant vessels bound 
to Canton. Soon after, a boat came alongside with a Chinese 
pilot, to whose professional guidance the charge of the ship was 
partially given up. He could speak English, and called his name 
Jenuny Thompson. 

The entrance into Macao Roads is neither dangerous nor diffi- 
cult. As the firigate advanced, numerous islands opened to view, 
not elevated, and mostly barren, with only here and there a few 



I.' 



1832.] ANCHOR AT MACAO. 335 

green patches, which afforded a great relief to eyes that had so 
long no object on ivhich to rest, save the smooth deep or the rol- 
ling billow. Numerous boats were now seen lying on the water, 
or moving from one island to another, and crossing each other's 
tracks in a thousand directions. Long before midnight, the Po- 
tomac was in the midst of a numerous fleet of boats ; and as they 
were constantly in motion, it required the utmost attention from 
the lookout and helmsman to avoid running them down. Indeed, 
such an accident could not have been prevented, had the night 
been obscure or dark, instead of a brilliant moonlight. It was 
twelve at night before the frigate came to anchor in Macao Roads. 



1 



886 TOYAOE OF THE POTOMAC. [May» 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

Chinar— Town of Macao — Lintin Island and Bay — Opium Smugglers — ^The Com- 
modore*s Excursion to Canton — Inhabitants of lintin — Small Feet of the Chinett 
Women — Religious Ceremonies — The Potomac ordered to Depart by the ChliWM 
Authorities — Second Excursion to Canton — Passage up the River — Forts, Fi> 
godas, Scenery, 6lc. — Wampoa, aquatic Population, dec. — Wonderful Skill of Htm 
Pilots — The Factories at Canton — Hospitable reception of the Party — ^The great 
Temple, or Jos-house — The officiating Priests — The Jos Pigs, clerical Cells, 
Gardens, &c. — The great Bazar — Dramatic Performances — Anniversary of tha 
Snake-boat — Police of Canton — Its Walls and Gates — Forcing an Entrance'^ 
The Hong Merchant's expedition in Business — Mode of Computation — ^Desciq>- 
tion of Canton — Return of the Party. 

The town of Macao is in latitude 22** 13' north, longitude 118* 
46' east. The city of Canton is about sixty miles further inland, 
in the direction of north-northwest. The whole bay, or estuary, 
is thickly studded with rugged and barren islands. Macao is on 
the west side of the entrance; built on a peninsula, which is 
almost an island, being joined to the main by a very narrow 
isthmus, across which is erected a barrier or wall, about two miles 
north of the town, being the limit prescribed to the ceded terri- 
tory, to prevent any intercourse between the Portuguese and the 
liege subjects and citizens of the Celestial Empire. This barrier 
was constructed in fifteen hundred and seventy-three, and the 
heaviest penalties were threatened to those who passed it in either 
direction. These restrictions, however, have gradually fallen into 
disuse, and are not at all regarded at present. 

This site, for a commercial establishment, was ceded to the 
Portuguese as a recompense for an essential service they had 
rendered the Emperor of China. About the year fifteen hundred 
and thirty-eight, a pirate of notorious daring and success, having 
under his command a considerable naval force, took possession of 
this peninsula, and was thereby enabled to block up the southern 
ports of China, and even extended his audacity so far as to lay 
siege to Canton ! 

In this extremity, the neighbouring Mandarins appUed for as- 



j 



d 



I 1 ■, « 



I' 



m! 



.1 



1832.] MACAO. 3S7 

sistancc to the Portuguese, who had an establishment at Sancian, 
an island on the coast, with several ships of war in the harbour, 
which were instantly despatched against the pirates. The Portu- 
guese proved victorious, and raised the siege, and pursued the 
piratical chief as far as Macao, where he put a termination to his 
own existence. His band, however, or a nautical banditti of a 
similar class, long continued to infest the islands, coasts, and 
rivers in the neighbourhood, even until the year eighteen hundred 
and ten, when they were effectually subdued by the joint efforts 
of the Portuguese, English, and Chinese. 

When the Emperor of China was informed of the service 
which the Portuguese had rendered ^jp on this occasion, he be- 
stowed on them the Peninsula of Macao, as a mark of his grati- 
tude. They had long wished to establish themselves upon a 
footing more solid than the one they had at Sancian ;* and now 
proceeded with avidity to build a town on their new territory^ 
which soon became very flourishing, being most advantageously 
situated for prosecuting a trade with Japan. It is defended by 
three forts. 

The approach to Macao, from the sea, is very beautiful in the 
daytime, and is not without its charms by a brilliant moonlight. 
It was midnight when the frigate came to 'anchor in the road. 
The following morning brought with it novelty, if nothing more. 
The fleet of little boats were all in motion. The land around 
seemed broken into a thousand hills, covered with stinted verdure. 
Macao, though distant, looked beautiful and highly picturesque. 
Every thing was new to the beholder, and strikingly characteristic 
of a foreign land. One reason, perhaps, why China, and every 
thing connected with it, imparts the idea of wonderful^ is, that 
each stranger who visits this country is previously determined ta 
be astonished at every thing he sees and hears ; nor will strange 
things be wanting ! 

Early in the morning, an officer was sent to communicate with 
the authorities of the town of Macao ; and while he was still 
absent on that duty, the Potomac*s anchor was weighed, and her 
sails loosed. On the boat's return with the officer, the frigate was 

* Sancian is an island of China, on tlie coast of Quang-tong (Canton), forty mile« 
in circumference, famous for being the buvial-place of Francis Xavicr, whose tomlr 
it to be seen on a small hill. 



888 VOYAGE OF. THE POTOMAC. f^^Ty 

immediately got under way, and with a fine breeze stood up the 
channel for the Island of Lintin, on the southwest side of which 
b a bay, with good anchorage. This island rises into a peak, 
which can be seen at a distance of forty miles in clear weather, and 
is said to be about seven hundred feet above the level of the water. 
It is seldom ascended, being very difficult of access ; although 
our countryman, W. W. Wood, Esq., of Philadelphia, with two 
other gentlemen, succeeded in reaching the summit, in May, eigh- 
teen hundred and twenty-seven, just five years previous to the 
Potomac's visit. He represents the view from the peak to be 
"really magnificent, embracing the islands on the coast, the 
neighbouring highlands of Lantao, and the shores of the river 
above Lintin."* 

The Island of Lintin derives its principal importance, and aU 
its celebrity, from the circumstance of its affording a safe anchor- 
age for ships while waiting for pilots, and its being the station of 
the opium fleet. The Bay of Lintin, as it is called, where the 
Potomac now lay at anchor, is between the island and the main- 
land. Here were a number of vessels, mostly engaged in the 
smuggling trade ; one of them, a very fine large American ship, 
called the Lintin, being stationed here to receive and dispose of 
opium, of which article most of the contraband trade consists. 
Such is the manner of carrying on this business, that it is divested 
of most, if not all the odium still attached to smuggling in other 
countries. 

The quantity of opium consumed throughout the Chinese em- 
pire is known to be immense. It is not used as a medicine, bat 
chewed and smoked as an exhilarating stimulant. Its importation 
into the country is, and long has been, prohibited by imperial de>- 
crees, threatenmg heavy penalties. These, however, are con- 
stantly evaded, and this ruinous drug finds its way into every 
part of this inunense empire ; there being few who can afford it 
that do not indulge in its use. 

The smuggling boats are long, narrow, and swift-sailing vessels, 
constructed expressly for the purpose^ and manned with about fifty 
vowers. They have, generally, two long masts, on which mat- 
sails are hoisted when the vrind will serve. These boats, at all 

* 8m Wood*i Sketches of Chini;, Phikdelpliia, 1830. 



•i 



1892.] LINTIN BAT. 399 

hours of the day,, go alongside the vessels ivhich contain the 
opium, prepared to pay for it in specie or otherwise. So inge- 
niously and discreetly are these transactions conducted, that 
neither the yessei or the smuggler run much or any risk; as 
chops, or custom-house permits, are always ready to be produced 
should the contraband articles be found on board. Opium, how- 
ever, is always liable to seizure, as its entrance into the empire, 
imder any shape, is prohibited. But the smuggling boats ar6 
generally manned by desperate men, so that captures are seldom 
made ; and are never effected, under any circumstances, without 
a severe fight with pikes and stones, whole boxes of which are 
ranged along the boats in readiness for defence. 

Chinese junks are constantly anchored off the northeast side 
of the island, for the purpose of preventing this prohibited article 
from finding its way into the empire. But these officers, who are 
paid for enforcing the laws, wink upon their constant violation 
with the greatest indifference and complacency. They some- 
times make a show of chasing the smugglers, and there the matter 
ends. . The latter, however, are seldom seriously molested except 
when a mandarin boat of one of the provinces visits another ; on 
which occasion, in order to show his zeal and fidelity in the ex*^ 
ecution of the revenue laws, the visiter insists upon examining 
every boat that comes within his reach. The consequence is, 
that a battle son^times occurs, in which the smugglers generally 
succeed, in either beating off the boat of the mandarin, effecting 
their escape, or concealing by some means the opium in their 
possession. 

Whatever be the result, the mandarin, as soon as the affair is 
over, sends a despatch to government, announcing a glorious vic- 
tory over, and the total destruction of the foreign barbarians, who 
had attempted to poison the subjects of his celestial majesty by 
introducing this filthy drug into the empire. With all its pro- 
hibitions, however, opium appears to be one of the chief articles 
of import into the country ; and the emperor himself so far en- 
courages the trade as the confirmed habit of using it will go ; and 
which ought to convince his imperial highness of the insufficiency 
of his prohibitory system. Only a short time previous to the ar- 
rival of the Potomac, one of the princes of the royal family died 
by excessive indulgence in the use of opium. No wonder xheot 

y2 



840 FOYAGB OF THE POTOMAC. [May, 

that this illicit trade is still carried on. The local reyenue officers 
are generally bribed by the Chinese merchants, so that no trouble 
is apprehended from that quarter. 

Soon after the arrival of the Potomac, the commodore caused 
to be procured a small schooner, of about thirty tons, for the use 
of the frigate during her stay. She was called the Sylph, being 
one of that class of vessels vrhich ply betveeen Macao and Canton. 
In this he embarked, with a party of his officers, to make a visit 
to Canton, while the duty of watering the ship was going on at 
Lintin. This often tedious operation was soon performed at this 
time by the aid of some large Chinese junks, procured for the 
purpose of bringing oflf the water. They were only occupied 
three days in this service ; after which, the interval previous to the 
frigate's departure was employed in seeing whatever was per- 
mitted to be examined and inspected by the extraordinary people 
who inhabit this celebrated region. 

The Island of Lintin is generally barren, being formed of 
masses of granite rock, piled one upon another ; the low grounds, 
however, are not unproductive, and are laid out in rice-fields and 
yegetable patches. It contains several small villages; but the 
principal one is on the west side of the island, in yiew of the 
anchorage ; consisting of a few miserably constructed bamboo 
huts, which are tenanted by still more miserable looking fisher- 
men, boatmen, or cultivators of the little rice-fields. The interior 
of these habitations, if they deserve so respectable a name, are 
most vnretchedly filthy ; and destitute, according to our ideas of 
comfort, of every convenience of life. The first visit of our offi- 
cers was met by a cold reception ; the women flying from them 
with terror, and the men motioning the strangers to begone, and 
not to approach their dwellings. These symptoms of inhospi- 
tality and distrust, so marked at first, gradually wore off, however, 
Aud our countrymen were suffered to ramble about without much 
restraint. 

Here, for the first time, they witnessed the incredible small feet 
of the Chinese females, while in other parts of thie same island 
there were none such to be seen. A small present to the mother 
of one of these suffering objects of torture, procured permission 
to examine it ; and it seemed almost incredible how any human 
could endure such torture — such mutilation. The child 



1832.] LINTIN ISLAND. 341 

might be about eleven years of age ; the toes were turned under 
the foot, the great toe forming the front part of the foot, and the 
only part preserving its original form. This distortion in shape, 
and depression in growth, are not effected, as many have been led 
to believe, from the use of iron or metal shoes, for such are not 
used by the Chinese ; but from the use of bandages, wrapped around 
to an intolerable tightness, the child during this time being kept 
in a sitting posture ; and so excruciating is said to be the pain, that 
the little sufferer for several months requires constant attendance ; 
during which time she cannot walk a single step, and afterward 
can only hobble. The foot of one child was only four inches, 
and that of another only measured three inches in length. Their 
shoes are often fantastically ornamented. 

The origin of this custom is traced to a very remote period, 
and is said to have been introduced by some celebrated queen, 
who was required by the fancy of her husband to bind up her feet 
into as small a compass as possible ; this was followed by the 
women of her court, and from that time it has been practised by 
the higher order of the Chinese, and is not only looked upon as a 
valuable ornament in a female, but gives to the fair one thus 
mangled a decided superiority in her family. 

These people worship an idol, which they call Jos^ supposed to 
be a corrupt pronunciation of the Portuguese Dios, God. The 
house consecrated to this service is a neat little stone building, in 
the large village, containing a gilt image, supposed to represent 
the " unknown deity whom they ignorantly worship.** The 
boatmen in the river pay evening sacrifices or burnt-offerings to 
the same deity, by throwing pieces of flaming paper into the water, 
which ceremony is called, in the Anglo-Chinese slang of the boat- 
men, Chin-chin Jos, meaning a compUment to the divinity. Our 
officers found no difficulty in obtaining admission to the Jos-hotise^ 
as they call it, in the village of Lintin. The idol has an altar, or 
stand, in front of him, for burning the morning and evening sacri- 
fices. But his devotees seemed to pay very little reverence (Mr 
even common respect to his godship, but rather treated him with 
a familiarity bordering on impertinence ; although he is one of 
their household gods, as almost every family has an image of him. 

The first thing they do in the morning is to light one of the 
small wooden sticks prepared expressly for the oblation, and 



0|t V0TA6S OF THB POTOMAC. {May, 

plant it down before him on the altar ; they then pour out a cup of 
tea, and place near the burning s{ick. On one of them being 
asked why he offered tea to JdSy he replied, " Chin-chin Jos — ^h« 
like him very much." On being again interrogated, '* How do 
you know that Jos Ukes tea, when he never drinks any 1" he 
answered, "Oh, yes, Jos will drink it presently," Feeling some 
curiosity to witness the end of this superstitious rite, the officers 
remained for some time, looking on ; but the cunning rascal con- 
trived to divert their attention for a moment, and seizing the 
cup, he threw a portion of the tea towards the image, and then 
called on them to see how much his god had drunk ! This cere- 
mony is performed every morning and evening ; but whether any 
particular days are set apart for the public worship of Jos, could 
not be ascertained from their evasive answers, in which they 
excel the shrewdest Scotch peasant of whom we have ever read. 

These people were generally very civil, and are mostly of 
dark complexion, with more of the Tartar than the Chinese in 
their physiognomy. They live chiefly on small fish, taken daily 
with an apparatus of truly a novel construction. It comprises a 
net, perhaps forty feet square, attached by cords to the upper ends 
of four long poles, planted obliquely in the water, inclining from 
the shore, To the summit of these poles are also fastened land- 
ropes, which pass around a windlass on the shore, by heaving on 
which the poles bend from their oblique to an upright position. 
This simple process raises the net out of the river, when a boat 
passes under and takes carie of the fish, which are thus drawn up 
in great multitudes, 

These fish are very small, but of great importance to the poor 
wretches, who scarcely have it in their power to taste other food. 
The few vegetables and small portions of fruit raised on the 
island, are generally disposed of to the foreign vessels lying in 
Ae bay. Provisions for sqch ships, however, are mostly procured 
from Macao. Lintin Island contains buffaloes, and numerous goats. 
Here also were seen many monkeys of a large size, scampering 
from rock to rock, on the upper part of the island. Excellent 
fresh water is plenty here, and very easily procured. 

The pilot. Jemmy Thompson, was now the constant companion 
of the inferior officers remaining on board the Potomac ; he being 
ship purveyor. To perform the duties of this office, and enjoy 



18?2.J VISIT TO CANTON. 84$ 

its profits, it is necessary to have a license from the mandarin. 
But Jemmy Thompson, and his partner, Sam Cock, spuming the 
trammels imposed on them by government, and despising the pil- 
fering of the mandarins, are what are termed outlaws^ or bold 
smugglers ; and they manage to live very well, by bribing some, 
and bullying others ; and having no license, their profits on trade 
ar6 all their own. 

These worthies contracted for watering the tanks, and for sup- 
plying the frigate with many articles ; but it was, found necessary 
to employ a regular comprador from Macao, as neither of these 
executive characters could visit that place or Canton. They live, 
in fact, in their boats, and are occasionally on the Island of Lintin ; 
always starting in alarm at hearing the word mandarin. 

One day, when Jemmy was down in the steerage, loquaciously 
gabbUng to the middies, a wag among the latter came down, and, 
with an air of the utmost seriousness, remsSrked — " What a beau- 
tiful mandarin boat is now coming alongside." Jemmy caught 
the sound, and without stopping to hear another word, or even to 
finish the sentence which he himself was uttering, darted like a 
terrified monkey up the companion-way, and in the next instant 
was over the ship's side into his boat ; and had already proceeded 
some distance before he perceived the joke which had been 
played upon him. 

The commodore and his party returned after an absence of 
about a week : during this time he had, through the facilities and 
kindness of our countrymen located in Canton, seen all that is 
permitted to pass before the eye of a foreigner. The season of 
business had passed ; the English factory was closed ; their colours, 
as well as those of the Dutch and French, were down ; the Ameri* 
can was the only one seen up at the time. The late and serious 
difficulties between the English East India Company and the au»> 
thorities of Canton, and which for a time threatened the most dis- 
astrous consequences to the company's interest, had been in some 
measure arranged, but how far the conditions of that arrangement 
will tend to prevent the repetiti(Hi of such difficulties in future, 
may not perhaps be so easily determined at this time. 

While the commodore was in Canton, a proclamation was 
handed to him, of which the following is a translation : — 

'^ Ching, imperial commissioner at the port of Canton, &c. &c., 



M4 VOYAOB OF THE POTOMAC. [Majy 

issues this oider to the Hong merchants, requiring them fuUy to 
understand it. It is authenticated that the Weigune of Macao 
has reported as follows : on the twenty-first of the present moon, 
the pilot Ho-Ching-Kwang reported that the American ship Po- 
tomac (in Chinese, Tang) arrived^ and anchored off Lintin. He 
went inmiediately to inquire the reason of her doing so. And it 
is authenticated, that the commodore of the said ship said that his 
iihip had sailed from his own country on a cruise to other ports, 
and driven on by the wind, had come and anchored here for a 
lime, and that when the wind should become fair, he would im- 
mediately get under way. The pilot also ascertained that there 
were on board five hundred men, sixty^four great guns, two hun- 
dred and fifty niuskets, two hundred swords, twelve hundred cattys 
of gunpowder, and twelve hundred shot. This is the pilot's report. 

'' This coming before me, the Hoppo, and being authenticated, I 
have examined. Since the said ship is not a merchant ship, nor a 
convoy of merchant ships, and has so many men, &c., it is inex-* 
pedient that she should bis allowed under assumed pretexts to 
anchor there (at Lintin), and so create disturbances. 

** Writing these circumstances, I issue this order for her expul- 
sion. Whea the order ccxmes to the sadd Hong merchants, let them, 
in obedience to it, enjoin the order on the said nation's chief, that 
he compel her to set sail and return to her own country. Let 
her not, under any pretexts, loiter and create disturbances which 
will involve scrutiny and examination. Let the day of her de- 
parture be reported. Haste I Haste I a special order. 

'' Taonkwang, twelfth year, fourth moon, twenty-sixth day.^ 

This order is always made to every armed vessel, though not 
the least attention is paid to the mandate of his celestial majesty's 
conunissioner. Formerly men-of-war-junks were sent to watch, 
and order off vessels of war ; which custom we beUeve has been 
idiscontinued (rf late, on account of a number that were sunk by 
jtfae British. 

On the commodore's return from Canton, a second party pre- 
pared to ascend the river in the same boat. It was nearly dark 
when they started; but as the wind was fresh and fair, our little 
Sylph had, by twelve at night, reached the entrance of Canton 
river, which is formed by two points of land ; that on the west 
called Ty-cock^ton, and the one on the east called Anungttoy. 



1832.] CANTON aiYER« 345 

The Portuguese call this narrow pass the Bocca Tigris^ the 
Tiger's Mouth ; but the Chinese name is Hoo-mun^ or Hoo-tow" 
moon. There are two channels through this pass, formed by a 
fortified island in the centre. The eastern channel is most gen- 
erally used by Europeans. 

In the morning, the Sylph felt the influence of a young breeze, 
and flitted along the crystal stream with a celerity that honoured 
her aerial cognomen. The entrance of this river is really beau- 
tiful, and might, with a moderate share of military skill, be ren- 
dered impassable to vessels of any force, its location being most 
favourable for works of defence. The channel being very narrow, 
might be easily commanded by redoubts of proper construction 
on each side. There are, however, but three forts, and these in 
such ill-selected positions, being lower than a frigate's spardeck, 
as to ofier no serious impediment to an armed force determined to 
ascend the river. Indeed, a single sloop-of-war might either 
silence or pass them without much risk. The guns do not appear 
to be of more than twelve pound calibre, and the most formidable 
thing about them is the hideous paintings of the heads of tigers 
on the potlids and sills of the embrasures. Should the assailants 
be amateurs in painting, no doubt they would be as much ap- 
palled as if so many Gorgon's heads were presented as shields. 
The fort on the left hand side of the channel is situated at the 
foot of a very high hill, whereas it ought to be on its summit. 
The rapidity, however, with which the Sylph passed along, gave 
no opportunity for minute investigation. 

In proceeding up the river, the land on the left was found to 
be, in some places, considerably elevated, and often covered with 
trees. On the sununit of onje of these heights, called See-chee^ 
tow, is a small pagoda, the first one to be seen in ascending the 
river. A short distance beyond, at a place called See-chee-top, is 
another pagoda, nine stories in height, and very much decayed. 
The country around it is well cultivated, and is scattered with 
farmhouses and sugar-mills of Chinese construction. The nine 
stories of this lofty edifice are divided, or separated, by projecting 
cornices ; from many of which, owing to the decomposition of the 
materials, shrubs, and even small trees, are seen growing. On the 
right, tlie land was lower, and divided into rice-fields. 

As our vnnged Sylph flew along, the thick clustering novelties 



846 TOTAGS OF THE POTOMAC. [Mnj, 

around us kept continually changing with an almost bevrildering 
Telocity — ^like the almost magical variations of a kaleidoscope. 
No sameness — all variety. As far as the eye could reach, green, 
fields appeared in endless succession ; intersected in every direc- 
WHi by small canals, up which, and far into the interior, might be 
$$eii the lofty masts and sails of the sampans^ wending their 
way onward ; while small villages, each with a dense and bus- 
tling pofwiation, wete momentarily passing before the eye like a 
moving diorama. Adjoining these might be seen large tracts of 
the beautiful and useful bamboo. The shady and rich foliage of 
the bananas and orange-trees, seemed to be ranged in hedges 
round the cultivated fields. The river appeared to be alive with 
boats; some fishing — others passing up and down — across — in 
every direction. Here, too, were the duck-boats, from which 
neither the duckling nor their owners ever step foot on shore. 

On approaching Whampoa, the Sylph was overtaken by a 
thundej^gust ; and as she still continued her course on the still 
unruffled surface of the stream, a crowd was seen in a village on 
the rig^t assembling at the sound of the gong, probably for the 
performance of some religious ceremony. They were soon left 
behind, for our little party's approach to Canton was now rapid 
indeed. In a moment, as it were, they found themselves in the 
midst of innumerable war-junks and merchant-proas, with ten 
thousand fancifully painted and gay streamers floating in the 
breeze. 

Myriads of boats, on each side, were moored in long and 
regular rows, forming channels, through which countless smaller 
boats were plying to and fro. The noise and bustle of business, 
combined with the low heavy hum of a million of human voices, 
dwelt with an eternal vibration on the ear. Here was a junk dis- 
charging her cargo— there, a raft of timber was gliding along — 
another crosses the Sylph's bows — everywhere are boats of all 
sizes and colours, and of every description — so numerous, that 
the surface of the water on which they rested could scarcely be 
seen between them. 

How wonderful the skill of their conductors ! The pilot who 
steered our little Sylph amid all this crowd, business, bustle, 
noise, confusion, and the din of a thousand gongs, seemed tp 
thread the mazy labyrinth with the utmost coolness, ease, and 



\ 



1882,] CANTON. 347 

security. There is nothing in the known world that can vie with 
the novel, spirit-stirring interest which this river presents. The 
very fact that millions are born, and live (perhaps to an old age), 
and die, without ever having touched foot on dry land, and that 
their ancestors before them, for many generations, were allam^M5£E 
like themselves, is enough, not only to excite our wonder, biit to 
bewilder the mind with astonishment ! We speak of mother 
earth, from whose bosom we derive our sustenance — " dust we 
are, and to dust we shall return." They are children of the 
water, the only source from which they derive their miserable 
nourishment — ^and beneath the water they find their final resting- 
place ! 

At length, our little party landed at Canton— outside the walls 
of course — where they were poUtely and kindly received by our 
countrymen and resident merchants, Messrs. Heard and Lattimer ; 
and to these gentlemen they were indebted for a most agreeable 
and introductive visit. Nothing was omitted on the part of their 
entertainers that could yield them pleasure or information. Their 
hospitable mansions were thrown open for the reception of their 
American visiters, who found themselves, by these easy, agree- 
able, and polite attentions, comfortably situated and entirely '' at 
home." 

Theu* visit being necessarily limited to a very short time, they 
felt the necessity of seeing, at once, all that was deemed worthy 
of a stranger's notice. Where every thing was new, Uttle more 
could be done than to give a cursory view to matters of least mo- 
ment, allowing themselves greater latitude as things of deeper 
moment were pointed out to them deserving greater attention. 
Under the guidance of Dr. Bradford, of Philadelphia, they set 
out, among their first excursions, to see the great Jos-Iiouse, situ- 
ated on the opposite bank of the river. The ferry-boats were 
manned altogether by women, who make their living by, and live 
in their boats; and whose skill in conducting their Uttle craft 
amid numerous junks, and a thousand other impediments, is 
truly astonishing. The current is strong, and the numerous ed- 
dies created by the proximity of so many boats, render it almost 
certain death to any one who is so unfortunate as to fall in the 
water ; hence dead bodies may almost daily be seen floating down 
the stream. 



S48 TOTAOS OF THB POTOIIAC. . [MeJ, 

The trsfeller who does not visit that great monastery belonging 
to the sect called Fuh^ or Buddha, in Chinese^ Hoe^ihong'^ze, cnr 
HtHMm^os-kofuse, may be said to hare scarcely seen Canton. 
The building is immense, occupying a large space of ground ; 
fike grarel-walks extending from one wing to another. Our party 
]|^«taed through four or fire buildings, each containing from two to 
four uncommon figures of Jos, with other good and evil spirits. 
Some of these figures were not less than twenty feet in height, 
gflt, olr painted in the most grotesque manner ; one was repre- 
■tated playing on a musical instrument; others frowning, with 
'llieir immense eyeballs projecting from their sockets; while 
another was holding large balls between the thumb and finger, in 
a threatening attitude of throwing them. In the last of these 
buUdings, which was much larger than the rest, the priests were 
performing their doTOCions, standing on each side of the altar, on 
which was placed an immense image of his Jasship, made of 
clay, and richly gilt ; one hand was resting on a sabre, the other 
raised ready for executing yengeance. On the altar were several 
candles burning, and numerous bundles otJos-tticks, made fircnn the 
sandal-wood, lighted, and filling the apartmrat with sweet odour. 

The priests, about sixty in number, were chanting in a rapid 
manner some religious strain, and seemed constantly repeating 
the same words. In an adjoining part of the room were other 
priests, standing with their heads bowed down upon their breasts, 
and at each sound of the gong, by the high-priest, they would 
change their position, holding up their hands as in supplication, 
and chanting all the time, till the gong sounded, when they would 
again change their position. 

While our little party were standing at the porch, looking on, 
there were a number of Chinese near, who were laughing, talk- 
ing, smoking, and apparently ridiculing the ceremonies; this, 
however, we eould not positively ascertain. The most of the 
images worshipped are said to be of evil spirits, and for which they 
give this single reason, — that the good spirits will not injure them ; 
and the evil, or bad ones, by this attention and devotion, may be 
prevented from doing so ; certainly, for such a people, such a 
reason is not a bad one. Religion ! it does not deserve the name ; 
as there is not a virtue held sacred among them, nor a vice they 
do not practise. 



1832.] CHINESE PRIESTS. 349 

We next visited the Jos^pigs, ten or twelve in number, the 
most gouty squeaks, perhaps, the whole empire could produce. 
These ^ere mostly presents from devotees, and supported by the 
church, and fed most enormously. They had become so fat that 
many of them could not rise, and seemed to breathe with difficulty ; 
some were so old that their faces were covered with immense 
wrinkles, and blotches of fat. They are never eaten, and of 
course die a natural death. During the past year there had been 
a great mortality among them, and many are said to have died of 
dropsy and liver complaint ! 

From this disgusting spectacle our curious visiters passed to the 
cells, where were several priests partaking of their scanty meal of 
rice and vegetables, their reUgion not allowing them to indulge in 
the use of meat. The cells are narrow, low, dirty little habita- 
tions, ranged along on one side of the building. 

Interspersed throughout the garden are numerous small and 
neat little buildings, one of which was pointed out as being ap- 
propriated to women who came to pray for offspring ; and in 
another were the urns containing the ashes of the priests, who 
are always burned after death. One had been burned only the 
day before ; and our officers were permitted to raise the cover of 
the jar that contained his ashes. There were about sixty urns in 
the building. At the end of each year these urns were emptied 
of their contents into a vault beneath the building, and the jars 
reserved for the same purpose during the coming year. The 
garden, in which these small buildings are arranged, has but Uttle 
to recommend it ; there are, however, a number of large and shady 
trees, whose branches are thronged with birds, which, if not held 
sacred like the Jos-pigs, are nevertheless secure from molestation, 
or being put to death. Add to these a duck-pond, a few flowers 
and vegetables, and you have a picture of the garden. The trees 
are mostly willows, whose branches hung down to the ground. 

On returning to the river, they passed through the great bazar» 
or market-place. Here was to be seen a sample of all the 
country produce, and in general requiring no particular descrip* 
tion ; there were, however, some articles exposed for sale, which, 
to an American palate, were not very inviting. In neat little par- 
cels was to be seen the large grub-worm, preserved in sugar and 
nicely dried. The first salmon brought in the spring to the Boston 



860 TOTAOB OF THE POTOMIC. [MajT, 

market, or the first plate of Btrawberries, nay, not e?en the 
luscious and savoury canvass-back duck of the Potomac, can be 
more highly prized than those sweetened grub-worms, which, 
owing to their cost, can only find a place on the table of the 
wealthy. 

; ' There are no people in the world who appear to have acquired 
iiaip singular tastes in exotics for the table, than the Chinese^ 
The edible biids'-nests, from Java and other islands, are in great 
demand, and find a place on their tables, at least, on feast-days. 
This luxury forms no inconsiderable article of trade. Sharks' 
fUt another article highly prized, may be found on their table, 
on all great occasions. There is scarcely any exotic, however, 
of which they are more fond, than biche de mer^ a gelatinous sub^ 
stance procured firom the rocks of the islands in the East Indies, 
and of late years found, we believe, in considerable quantities, 
among some of the islands of the Pacific. Many of our small 
vessels have found a good business in procuring and carrying thi» 
article to Canton. 

Ascending the river on their return, our party passed by a larg» 
theatre, where a Chinese play was being acted in all the noise and 
grotesque buffoonery for which those amusements are so notorious 
among them. But from this their attention was soon eaUed to a* 
spectacle far more interesting : — a long, low, narrow, and beauti- 
fully-modelled boat, the head fashioned and painted in resem- 
blance of a large snake, and the tail projecting from the stem, re- 
sembling that of the same animal. It was manned with about 
fifty rowers on each side, with paddles ; while in the centre, and 
at each end, were groups of men, dressed in all the fantastic 
colours imaginable. From all parts, variegated streamers were fly- 
ing in the breeze. At the sound of a gong and drum, shouts, 
clapping of hands, and voices, they dipped their paddles, and the 
boat moved through the water with incredible velocity, every one 
keeping time to the gongs. Again they ceased, and at a given 
signal every oar was raised ; and the rowers wheeling on their 
seats, the boat, without turning, was impelled again with incredible 
celerity in the opposite direction. This was repeated amid loud 
shouts and sound of gongs, calling and attracting the attention of 
the world of China around. 

The anniversary of the snake-boats is religiously observed 



1832.] CANTON POLICE. 351 

every year. It appears to be founded on a tradition handed 
down almost from time immemorial. It appears that once upon 
a time, as our nursery stories begin, a Chinese of great rank, who 
had distinguished himself by his wonderful talents and exploits, 
among which he is said to have confined the river Tigris to iti 
banks ; after conferring many benefits upon the nation, and achiet- 
ing many wonders, scarcely inferior to Hercules himself; fiom 
some cause (which he never made known, or if he did, it has 
been lost in traveUing down the mist of past ages) he leaped into 
the river, and was never more seen. He promised, however, to 
return on the anniversary of that day, but unfortunately negledol 
to mention the year of his intended resurrection. In* order to 
meet him on his return, each year these snake-boats commence 
their research three days beforehand ; during two of these days 
our officers were in Canton, and were not a little amused in wit^ 
nessing the effect of 'this singular superstition ! The first of June 
is the anniversary, and the boats are said to be patronised by the 
government. Numerous flower-boats, richly gilt and painted, 
covered with beautiful mats, and filled with ladies and gentlemen, 
were plying about the river at the same time, giving additional 
life and variety to the scene. 

The police of Canton cannot but strike the attention of every 
one, as it is unquestionably among the best regulated in the worid. 
Spies are distributed in every part, and watch the actions of every 
one ; particularly the foreign residents. In every squaiUjf at every 
hour of the night, may be heard the watchmen with tHeir heavy 
bamboo clubs, striking the pavement. The streets are very 
narrow ; and the houses being lofty in many parts, make them 
appear like narrow lanes ; some exceedingly filthy, even to offen- 
siveness, while others are kept in better order. At every square 
there is a gate, which is closed every night at ten o'clock, and 
guarded by a watchman ; and every individual foreigner passing 
after this hour, must carry with him a lighted lantern, with his 
name in legible characters painted on it. Should any alarm be 
given, these gates are instantly secured, enclosing all offenders, so 
that any one guilty of breaking the peace, or of any crime what- 
ever, may easily be taken ; indeed, escape is utterly impossible. 

The residence of foreign merchants, or, as more generally 
termed, factories, are mostly very splendid buildings, and form by 



862 VOYAGE OF THE POTOMAC. .[May, 

far the finest looking part of the town ; they face and extend 
along the river the distance of six or eight hundred yards. Each 
merchant li?es in his own factory. The English East India 
Company occupy an extensive establishment : the hongs, or build*^ 
ings containing the teas, are extensive, and face along the river, 
and the entrance to them is secured by strong iron gates. The 
houses of the Chinese are generally meanly built, of cedar and 
camphire timber. 

The wall of Canton is low, of mud and stone construction* 
To strangers it is the boundary, " Thus far shalt thou come, and 
lur lEurther." At one time our inquisitive party passed a short 
distance within, but were instantly stopped by the guards, sikI the 
multitude all shouted as if something were wrong. Canton within 
was, to all appearance, just what Canton was without. The 
foreign residents have, on several occasions, been a short, distance 
within, the gates. To do this, however, requires some resolution^ 
and numbers united, and has generally been done when some 
representation had to be made to the vice-king, which the Hong, 
merchants had refused to present ; the grievance to be redressed 
being against their interest. Under these circumstances, the 
conmiunication to be presented is prepared with the utmost se-^ 
crecy, and the hour of entry fixed ; when some dozen or twenty 
meet, and with clubs in their hands, move directly for the gate^ 
pushing over and knocking down every thing which comes in their 
way. They then boldly enter the gate, the guard protesting to 
the contrary notwithstanding. A tremendous tumult is now 
created ; and every Chinese presents himself as a barrier to their 
progress. The party then come to a stand, their object being 
attained; for the authorities hearing that strangers are within 
the walls, send a messenger to demand the cause, when they pre^ 
sent their memorial, certain of its reaching the proper hands^ 
Having thus, by violence and real bravado, effected the object of 
their visit, they retire from within the wall, and immediately the 
tumult ceases. On several occasions they have been obliged to 
resort to this method, which was always successful without a 
serious accident. 

We have stated that the police without the walls is most rigidly 
kept up ; of its character within we know nothing. The man- 
darins, hoUing office from government, hav^ the power of instant 



1832.] CBIKSSB lOSRCHANTS. 353 

and summary punishment on their own people. The foreigners 
can generally, though.it is attended with much trouble, gain redress 
for any injury ; and petitions presented for the removal of any 
grievance, or asking for any privilege of trade, if customary, are 
granted. But their walks are limited to certain bounds ; nor are 
they allowed the privilege of riding at all on horseback, or of in- 
troducing their wives or ladies into the province. Those illrho 
have wives are obliged to keep them at Macao, and visit them as 
their business will permit. The curiosity of one lady (or was it 
her attachment to her husband?) some time since, tempted her, 
and her influence over her husband (or was it his amiable iind 
submissive disposition?) induced him, in a moment of folly, to 
forget himself, and allow her to accompany him in the costume 
of an attendant, male, of course, to Canton. Before landing, her 
disguise was discovered, and she was obliged to fly to Macao in 
a boat. She was pursued, and barely escaped with her Ufe, and 
her husband, foolish man, was mulcted in a heavy fine ! 

While our oflicers were at dinner with Mr. Lattimer, Mr. L. 
left the table for a moment, and returned so soon that he wts 
scarcely missed. He informed his guests that he had mHi ^fc 
sale while absent, of opium, to the amount of two thoasflT^^* 
dollars, and assured them that the Chinese are remarkably ei^pi^^ 
in business. Shopkeepers, from whom you may buy the most 
trifling article, supply ships with cargoes, worth two hundred thou- 
sand dollars, and will contract to do so with all th& necessary 
security, in the length of time he had been absent from the table. 
They will manage all the smuggling, if any be necessary ; get 
all the chops for duties ; and deliver the articles on board the ship 
at Lintin, Whampoa, of Macao ! 

In buying any article, however small or trifling, at Canton, the 
seller will furnish you with a small paper containing some Chi- 
nese characters, and these are called chops. If called on by the 
custom-house officers, or mandarin, to pay duty on these articles, 
you simply present them with chops, and it is their business to 
find the merchant who sold the article, and collect the revenue 
from him. 

Their fancy articles, in imitation of Japan ware, carved boxes, 
and other articles of ivory, with a thousand fancy gewgaws, are 
sold here for a mere song. They are most faithful copyists of 

z 



dbf. 




a good copy 

latailnriiig 

PC a pm of 

br; eadi poirtkit 

ioiEie ptfBca^cicB toapatcboBlliemt, 

sad to ae fcrr acvie acx)oaiOH«% aad their metbod of 
s cntuMT sBCPar. Tke p tocgja is br a kind of 
wbca tbrr cd smho pww, or cooiMiBfE booids; which 
of a frame of wood, of isii o m* aBes, dmdcd into two 
campaEtmects, br a hv piaccd iiwiiwiji at aboat one 
ikinithe kncth from the top. Throng tte bar at liribt an^cs 
are iiBerted a Dumber of parallel wires, and on each wire ia the 
lower compartment are fire moreabie balls, aac n the apper two: 
these wires maj be considered as the ascei 
powers of a numeration table, proceeding in a 
so that if a ball on any of the wires in the larger compartment 
Jm fkced against the middle part and called onit, or ooe,a ball on 
jfce next wire abore it will represent ten, and one oo the next one 
'Mmdred : no also a ball on the next wire below that representing 
units will be one tenth, next lower one hundredth, and the ball on 
the corresponding wires in the smaller compartment will in the 
same manner represent five, fifty, five hundred ; ten, tenths, five 
hundredths, &c., the value or power of each of these in the 
smaller division being always five times as much as those in the 
larger. It is wonderful the facility with which they will calcu- 
late by this process, and what is remarkable, they are scarcely 
ever known to be wrong, even in the most complicated accounts. 

The city of Canton, as before stated, our oflScers were not per- 
mitted to enter, as no foreigners are. But the Chinese Reposi- 
tory, an Knglish magazine, published in the suburbs, contains 
many interesting facts respecting the interior of this ancient city, 
from which the following have been taken : — 

" That part of the city which is surrounded by a wall, is built 
nearly in the form of a square, and. is divided by a wall running 
from east to west in two parts. The northern, which is much the 
largest part, is called the old city ; the southern part is called the 



1882.] CANTON, DESCHlFriON OF. 356 

new city. According to some foreign, as well as natiye books, 
thd northern part Was oncei ' composed, as it were, of three differ- 
ent towns, separated by very fine high walls, but so conjoined, that 
the same gate senred to go out from the one and enter the other.' 
These divinons ceased long ago to exist. The new city was 
built at a much later period than the old. The entire circuit of 
the wall, which now includes both divisions of the city, is yari- 
ously estimated by the Chinese. At a quick step we have walked 
the whcde distance in Uttle less than two hours, and think it can- 
not exceed six English miles. On the south side the wall runs 
nearly due east and west, parallel to the river, and distant from it 
perhaps fifteen or twenty rods. On the north, where * the city 
rests on the brow of the hill,' the wall takes a serpentine course ; 
and its base at the highest point on the hill is perhaps two hiln- 
dred or three himdred feet above the surface of the river. 

** The walls are composed partly of stone and partly of bricks : 
the former is chiefly coarse sandstone, and forms the foimdation 
and the lower part of the walls and the arches of the gates ; the 
latter are small and of a soft texture. In several places, particu- 
larly along the east side of the city, the elements have made such 
inroads on the walls as to afford satisfactory evidence, that be- 
fore the prowess of a modem foe, they would present but a feeble 
resistance. They rise nearly perpendicular, and vary in height 
from twenty-five to thirty-five or forty feet. In thickness they are 
twenty or twenty-five feet. Thiey are the highest and the most 
substantial on the north side, evidently so built because in that 
direction hostile bands would be the most Ukely to make an attack. 
A line of battlements, with embrasures at intervals of a few feet, 
are raised on the top of the wall around the whole •city; these 
the Chinese call ching-jin, literally, dty-men ; and in the rear of 
them there is a broad pathway. There are two * wings,' or short 
walls, one at the southeast and the other at the southwest comer 
of the city, which stretch out from the main walls ; these were 
designed to block up the narrow space between the walls and the 
ditches of the city. Through each of these there is a gate, in 
every respect similar to those of the city. 

" The gates of the city are sixteen in number ; four of these 
lead through the wall which separates the oki firom the new city ; 
so that there are only twelve outer gates— -ccHi^nexiciDg on die 

z2 



356 YOYAOB OF THB POTOHAC [May, 

noorth, and passing round to the west, south, and east. One of 
these gates is fifteen feet wide and twelve high ! A few soldiers 
are stationed at each of the gates to watch them by day, and to 
close and guard them by night. They are shut at an early hour 
in the evening, and opened at dawn of day. Except on special 
occasions, no. one is allowed to pass in or out during the night- 
watches ; but a"^small fee will usually open the way, yet always 
exposes the keepers to punishment. 

'' We must now extend our description so as to include the sub- 
urbs ; the streets and buildings of which differ very little, if at 
all, from those within the walls. On the west they spread out 
nearly in the form of an isosceles right-angled triangle, opening 
to the northwest, having the river on the south, and the western 
wall of the city for its two equal sides. On the south they occupy 
the whole space between the wall and the river. On the east 
they are much less extensive than on the west. There are no 
buildings on the north, except a few small huts near the principal 
gate. Taken collectively, the suburbs are scarcely less exten- 
sive or less populous than the city within the walls. 

" The streets of Canton are numerous — ^we have before us a 
catalogue containing the names of more than six hundred, among 
which we find the * Dragon-street/ the * Flying dragon-street,' 
the 'Martial dragon-street,* tlie * Flower-street,' the 'Golden- 
street,' the * Golden flower-street ;' and among many more of a 
similar kind, we meet with a few which we should not wish to 
translate. There are several long streets, but most of them are 
short and crooked ; they vary in width» from two to sixteen feet 
wide, and they are everywhere flagged with large stones, chiefly 
granite. The motley crowd that often throng these streets is very 
great indeed. At a busy hour of the day, the stout, half naked, 
vociferating porters, carrying every djescription of merchandise, 
and the nimble sedan-bearers, in noise and bustle, make up for 
the deficiency of carts and carriages ; these, together with the 
numerous travellers, various kinds of retailers, pedlers, beggars, 
&c., present before the spectator a scene which we will not at- 
tempt to describe. 

" Not a few of the visiters, ^d not a little of the merchandise, 
brought together here, are conveyed into the city by means of 
canals or ditches. There are several of these ; one of the largest 



1832.] CANTON. 357 

of them extends along the whole length of the wall on the east 
of the city, and another on the west side. Between these two, 
and communicating with them, there is a third canal, which nms 
along near the wall on the north side of the new city, so that 
boats can enter on the west, pass through the city, and out at the 
eastern side ; and vice versa. There are other canals in the 
eastern and western suburbs; and one in the southern. Into 
these large channels a great number of smaller ones flow : these 
the Chinese call the * veins of the city.' There are also several 
reservoirs, but none of them are of great extent. Much of the 
water for the use of the inhabitants is supplied fiOm the river and 
canals ; wells are frequent ; rain-water is employed also ; and for 
tea, &c., fine wholesome water is plentifully furnished from 
several springs, which bresik out on the north of the city, both 
within and without the walls. There are several bridges, some 
built of stone, thrown over these canals." 



868 TOTAOS or thk potohac. fHay, 



CHAPTER XIX. 

The empire of China — Unknown to the ancients — ^Its history ittfjriyed in faUe and 
tradition — Founded hj Noah — Patriarchal form of govemment^Location, size, 
cities, towns, Tillages, monuments, libraries, &c. — Immense population — Obser- 
rations on acclimating her productions. 

The Chinese empire, which, including its tributary states and 
those under its protection, is said to cover more than five millions 
of square miles, and is computed to contain more than three hun- 
dred millions of inhabitants — is, perhaps, less accurately known 
than any other kingdom of the earth. To the ancient historians, 
both sacred and profane, China was either entirely unknown, or 
she was, as it were, a '* sealed book," into the contents of which 
the eye of curoisity was not permitted to pry ; and though modern 
enterprise, with a free^ and bolder spirit of conmierce and in- 
quiry, has been more successful in seeking to penetrate the 
mysteries of the " Celestial Empire," comparatively little additional 
light has been thrown upon the subject ; or, at least, much still 
remains to be known. The Portuguese navigators, who followed 
Vasco de Gama round the Cape of Good Hope, after its dis- 
covery by Dia^, were the first from whom the Europeans attained 
any tolerably correct ideas of the situation, extent, and character 
of this interesting country. And several subsequent embassies 
from Europe, though all of them failing in the grand object of 
their respective missions, together with the more recent and 
successful labours of the intelligent and enterprising missionary 
Gutzlaff, have tended in some measure to throw down the myste- 
rious screen of national pride and jealousy, behind which the 
Chinese have ensconced themselves for so many centuries. Other 
Christian missionaries, also, so far as they have been permitted, 
have laboured hard, and somewhat successfully, in the same cause. 

Although Alexander the Great, who flourished three hundred 
and fifty years before the Christian era, is stated to have subdued 
all the then known world, and to have lamented that there were 
no more nations to conquer, we now know that the rast regions 



168S.] CHINA. 35f 

of northern Tartary, China proper, and eren further India, were 
not included in his conquests. This exception in favour of the 
countries just named, is supposed by sonde writers to be attributa- 
ble to their early knowledge of gunpowder, and the use of artil- 
lery. Philostratus, as we have stated in a previous chapter, wrote 
under this impression in his Life of Apollonius Thyansus. 

But whatever credit may be attached to this historian, there are 
strong reasons for believing that the empire of China was totally 
unknown to ihe ancient Greeks, as it is not mentioned or even 
alluded to by Homer, or Herodotus, the great father of history. 
It has been conjectured, however, from a passage in Quintius Cur- 
tins, the Latin historian, who wrote the Life of Alexander the 
Great, that the Macedonian hero had attained some knowledge of 
the Chinese during bi» conquests in India, about three hundred 
and twenty years befprt Christ, and that it is to them the historian 
refers in these words — hinc in regnum Sophitis perventum est. 
Gens ut barbari sapientia excellit^ bonisque moribus regitur. In 
confirmation of this conjecture, it is added that Strabo, the great 
Latin geographer, calls this kingdom of Sophites, Cathea, a word 
which is supposed to bear, a resemblance to Cathay, the name 
given to China by the Tartars. The Jews are supposed to have 
found their way into China, after Alexander, by his conquests in 
the east, had opened a communication with India ; and their ar- 
rival in the country is said to be noticed in the historical records 
of China. The date of that event is fixed by some in the year 
two hundred and six, and by others in the year two hundred and 
fifty-eight before Christ. They abound chiefly in the silk provinces. 

The ancient history of China is too much enveloped in dark- 
ness, fable, and extravagant tradition, to furnish us With any data 
on which to erect a plausible hypothesis respecting its origin. 
Some of their writers have claimed an antiquity for the nation of 
more than ninety millions of years ! The more moderate and 
reasonable of them, however, are content to ascribe their origin to 
the immediate survivers of the general deluge, and suppose that 
Noah himself was the actual foimdcfr of the empire I 

Thi« supposition has been ingeniously sustained by some 
European writers, particularly by the authors of the " English l 
Universal History." It is suggested that the patriarch Noah, 
whom the Chinese call FoJiee, and whose ark they suppose may 



360 TOTAOE OF THE POTOMAC. [It^t 

have xested on some mountain in Great Taitaiy,* becoming justly 
offended at the impiety of his degenerate descendants, about two 
hundred and thirty years after the flood, separated himself from 
them ; and with a select number of adherents, trayelled easiwardy 
where he planted a colony which ultimately became the foundation 
of the Chinese empire. 

In the meantime, his disobedient and refractory descendants, 
who, with those that accompanied him, comprised all the 
human race, took an opposite direction, and travelled to the 
west until th^y reached the banks of the Euphrates. Here a 
striking analogy is obyious between the tradition and that pas- 
sage in Genesis which says — "And the whole earth was of 
one language and of one speech. And it came to pass, as they 
journeyed /rom the eas% that they found a plain in the land of 
Shinar, and dwelt there." Here they attempted to '^ build a tower, 
whose top should reach to heaven," which impious enterprise 
was defeated by the miraculous confusion of tongues, which led 
to their dispersion over all the eai^. 

Another argument, which has been adduced in favour of this 
hypothesis, is derived from the fact that there is a striking resem- 
blance between the Chinese government and that which has been 
generally called the *' patriarchal form," from which it is supposed 
to have originated.! 

But after all that has been conjectured and written on the sub- 
ject, the knowledge of the origin, history, and condition of this 
extensive and extraordinary empire, is still extremely imperfect 
and uncertain. It was only at a l^te period that the nations of 
Europe became acquainted even with the existence of the coun- 
try ; and even then the peculiar nature of the language, and the 
careful exclusion of foreigners by the government, prevented, and 
still in a great measure prevents, that degree of intercourse with 

♦ It ia a curious fact, that the celebrated Swedish theologian, Swedenborg, aaserU 
in his writings, that the " Book of Enoch," quoted by Moses, still exists in Tartary. 
This he says was a divine revelation made to the antedilavitns. 

t " The Emperor of China possesses the most unUmited authority, and can issue 
new laws, or abrogate old ones, as he pleases. He is the undisputed master of the 
lives of his subjects. To his revision every verdict is subject, and is of no force un- 
til it receives his confirmation. All his own sentences are executed without delay ; 
and all his edicts are acknowledged throughout the empire, as if they were the man- 
dates of Deity.*'— -^. Enc, 



1882.] CHINA. 361 

the people which is necessary to procure correct information of 
their manners, and free access to their historical records. 

So little indeed was known of China, or any part of the eastern 
extremity of Asia, as late as the fifteenth century, that Columbus 
lived and died under the impression that all his discoyerics were 
on that coast ; little dreaming that a vast continent, and an ocean 
beyond it of ten thousand miles in width, intervened between 
them. The opinions of Aristotle, Seneca, and Pliny, that by 
sailing west from Cadiz, a navigator might arrive at the Indies in 
a few days, served to strengthen this impression. Strabo, also, 
the celebrated ancient geographer, had asserted that the ocean 
surrounded the earth, washing the shores of India on the one 
side, and the western coast of Spain and Mauritania on the other ; 
so that it was easy to navigate from one to the other, on the same 
parallel. 

By reference to the map of Asia, it will be seen that '^ China 
proper," which is the subject of our immediate consideration, ex- 
tends more than twelve hundred geographical miles from north to 
south, and not much short of that distance from east to west. It 
stretches from latitude 21' to 42* north, covering twenty-one de- 
grees of latitude, and about twenty-five of longitude. The limits 
of the United States include twenty-three degrees of latitude, or one 
hundred and twenty geographical miles more seacoast than China ; 
but the latter extends westward from the coast to such a distance 
as to include more than a million and a quarter of square miles, 
while the whole extent of our own country, including the Oregon 
territory, is only a little .more than two millions of square miles. It 
is bounded on the north by the vast regions of Tartary, from which 
it is separated by an artificial barrier fifteen hundred miles in length, 
said to have been erected in the year one thousand one hundred and 
sixty, as a work of defence, and is known by the appellation of 
the " Great wall of China." The eastern boundary of the em- 
pire is the Yellow and China Sea, forming an extensive coast of 
almost every variety of climate. On the south, it is bounded 
partly by the ocean, and partly by the kingdom of Tonquin and 
Cochin-China. Its western boundary consists of lofty mountains 
and extensive deserts, which separate it from Bucharia, Thibet, &c. 

This vast enrpire is divided into fifteen provinces, which, ac- 
cording to Chinese statements, contain four thousand four hundred 



302 TOTAOB OF THB POTOMAC. [MajTy 

and two walled cities, divided into two classes, the civil and the 
military ; the first comprising two thousand and forty-five, and the ^ 
second two thousand three hundred and fifty-seven cities. The 
frontiers and seacoasts are defended by four hundred and thirty- 
nine castles, fortified and covered by two thousand nine hundred 
and twenty towns, many of which are equal in population and 
extent to the walled cities themselves ; while the villages scattered 
over the interior are declared to be innumerable. 

There are also, according to the same authorities, eleven hun- 
dred and forty-five royal hospitals, or lodging-places for the offi- 
cers and servants of the court; eleven hundred and fifty-nine 
triumphal arches, erected in honour of kings and heroes ; two 
hundred and eight monuments, dedicated to the memory of 
females who have been distinguished by the virtues of their sex ; 
two hundred and seventy-two libraries, continually open to the 
learned : and in almost every city or town, schools and colleges 
established by their great philosopher Confucius, or founded in 
honour of his name. How near to the actual truth these flaming 
and probably exaggerated accounts approximate, it is impossible 
for strangers to determine. We know that this people possess 
an extraordinary share of national pride and vanity ; despising all 
the rest of the world, and believing, or affecting to beUeve, that 
every other nation of the earth is bound to pay them homage and 
obeisance. 

By the Chinese themselves, their country is called Tehong- 
Kaoue, or the middle kingdom ; because they formerly imagined 
that it was situated in the middle of the earth, and that all other 
countries lay scattered around their empire in the form of small 
islands. In latter times they have indeed acquired a more correct 
geography ; but so inveterately do they adhere to ancient opinions, 
and especially to whatever flatters their national vanity, that they 
still continue to express themselves in this erroneous manner, and 
to preserve unaltered every sentiment and expression of their 
great philosopher Confucius. In their hyperbolical jargon, China 
is the " Celestial Empire," and their emperor the " Fatlier of 
ten thousand years," and the " Brother of the sun and moon " 

But, after making all due allowances for hyperbole and exag- 
geration, the country in question is emphatically one of the 
wonders of the world ; for the whole geography and history of 



ISdSJ CHINA. 868 

the terraqueous globe, afford no other object more sublimely 
great than this immense sovereignty, the most numerous, and, it 
is probable, the most anciently civilized nation.' " As a whole, the 
Chinese empire fronts on the Pacific Ocean, from the head of 
the Gulf of Tung-Quin to the mouth of Amur, five, thousand 
miles; upon Asiatic Russia, from the Sea of Ochotsk to the 
Irtish river, three thousand miles ; along the Altaian and Imaus 
Mountains, fifteen hundred miles ; and skirting the two Indies, 
two thousand five hundred miles; having an entire outline of 
more than twelve thousand miles. Within this perimeter is 
included the one thirteenth part of the land area of our planet ; 
every variety of soil, and almost every diversity of climate. It 
includes the most elevated of all mountains, the Himalaya ; the 
high, cold, and desolate plains of Thibet and Mongolia, and also 
the rich alluvial deltas of the Amur, Hoanho, and Kianku.*" An 
immense population of two hundred miUions — a wary, cunning, 
politic, keen, and observant race. 

Such is a hasty sketch of the " Celestial Empire." What a< 
field is here presented for the labours of the devoted missionary t 
— what a prospect for the merchant ! — and how much to occupy 
the attention of the wise statesman ! Of its commerce we shall 
speak in the next chapter, while we shall conclude the present 
with a few suggestions on a subject which has not received atten- 
tion proportioned to its importance in this country ; but with the 
opening of the trade to China, cannot be too soon attended to by 
our government. By the way, however, we must observe, that 
though China was once far in advance of every other nation on 
the globe, as to civilization, literature, refinement, and the arts and 
sciences, she is now as far in the rear of the most unenlightened 
nations of Europe. Still, China has not retrograded, but only 
stood still, while other nations, who were far behind her, have 
caught her up and pushed far ahead of her. Her arts are still in ' 
the same state that they were when that country was visited by 
Marco Polo, so many years ago ; her modem literature is still a 
servile imitation of ancient models ; and science has not advanced 
a single step. 

A proper estimation, in this country, has never been placed 

* Derby's Gaognphical Lectures. 



364 VOYAGE OP THE POTOMAC. [May, 

upon the benefits which might result to agriculture, and particu- 
larly to horticulture, from an expedition to the coast of China. 
That country has a climate very similar to our own, arising from 
its similar position on the eastern edge of a great continent. Both 
are dry, and subject to greater vicissitudes of heat and cold than 
countries in the interior, or on the other side of the great conti- 
nent. This being the case, the vegetable productions suitable to 
the one, cannot but thrive well in the other. 

China has been a long time civilized, and the whole extent of 
its coast been for ages under a government which has paid more 
attention to agriculture than any other government that has ever 
existed. Under such circumstances, it is impossible to be other- 
wise, but that the vegetables and fruits of the various climates 
have been acclimated to a degree much beyond what they have 
with us, or in Europe, from whence we derive our fruits and 
Tegetables. 

The territories of China embracing both sides of the tropic, 
we have every reason to believe that the productions of the south 
have been extended as far as possible to the north, and those of 
the north to the south. 

By getting, therefore, fruits and vegetables from a country thus 
situated, we get the advantage of a thousand or more years of 
Acclimation. 

For instance, we get our apples and pears from England and 
France. The apple we have not yet acclimated as far south as 
Georgia. There are, we believe, only one or two varieties, which, 
in the upper part of that state, prove fruitful in some years. {Their 
flavour is very indifferent. So with the pear. Coming from the 
latitude of from forty-two to fifty, it is unproductive south of Bal- 
timore ; and so with other fhiits. 

Who can doubt but that, in a country in which the extension 
and prosperity of agriculture have been the great object of govern- 
ment, their fruits and other vegetables have, in the course of 
fifteen hundred years, been extending gradually to the south, so 
as to become used to a climate which it will take us nearly the 
same period to reach with the varieties of fhiits which we now 
have. It is the same with the fruits and vegetable productions 
of the south. The tropical fruits and vegetables must have been 
brought as far north as they can be profitably cultivated. From 



183S.] CHINA. 365 

fifteen hundred to two thousand yean have been passed in this 
process of acclimatidn. 

Why should we undergo this long process, when a few thou- 
sand dollars may introduce them among us ? 

It is well known, that among other plants, the sugarcane may 
be gradually introduced into a climate which was at one time in- 
congenial to it. The Otaheite has been introduced into Louisiana. 
What ,a gain it would be to our country if a Yariety could be 
procured which could be raised one degree farther north than 
the Otaheite ! The adyantages from this single plant alone would 
a thousand times compensate for all the expenses of such an ex- 
periment. For the introduction into this- country of the various 
fruits and yegetables which such a country as China must pro- 
duce, might be attended with advantages almost incalculable. 

We have already received from China one animal, the benefits 
of which to our country surpass a thousand times the expenses 
which might accrue in setting on foot the proper inquiry in rela- 
tion to this matter. The Chinese hog is the animal to which we 
allude. A long series of years devoted to the selection of animals 
having a propensity to fatten, could alone have produced the breed, 
which has added so much to the wealth of our farmers, and to 
the pleasure of our epicures who admire a nice ham. What 
would our gardeners think of the immense piles of headed lettuce^ 
described by travellers in China as heaped up at the gates of the 
cities, preparatory to entering and being distributed among the 
morning markets ? We have nothing of the kind in the United 
States or Europe. We cannot have, unless by hundreds of years 
of persevering industry and care. 

These things are more particularly of importance, because they 
are those in which the great mass of the community are directly 
and principally interested. They add to the comfort of the poorest 
as much as they do to that of the richest. All are benefited, and 
none could complain of any expenditure which all acknowledge 
is for the benefit of all classes, and all sections, li there be any 
section that may be more benefited than another, it is from lati- 
tude 32^ south. 

The introduction of one single vegetable, the turnip, into Eng- 
land, changed the whole face of a large district of country, and 



866 TOTAOB 07 THB POTOMAC. [MbJ, 

rendered it, from being almost barren, one of the most fertile in the 
kingdom. 

Ad to the commercial advantages, independent of other articles 
of commerce, which might be brought into view by means of such 
inquiries, we have no doubt that the introduction alone of the iron 
of Formosa into our country, would be found in ready demand. 
That iron is of so superior a quality, that, for some particular 
purposes, it would be invaluable. Such is the temper that can 
be given to it, it is stated, that swords made of it will sever 
with ease those made of ordinary steel. What a desideratum to 
all the mechanic arts would be a sufficient quantity of it to make 
our finest edgetools, and most delicately constructed instru- 
ments! 



s^ 



*'t 



1682.J OOKMIBCIXL EITAUIT. 367 



CHAPTER XX. 

European rivalxj in the east— Fonnation of the East India Company^— Its conqaeeta 
in Indiar— First American yessel sails from New-Tork, and visits Canton — Inter- 
esting correspondence— Tabular view of our trade — £jq>iration of the company's 
charter — New state of things opening in the east^— Increased vigilance necessary on 
the part of our goyemment — Free trade with China. 

For a century after Vasco de Gama had reflected so much glory 
upon his nation, by discovering ths passage around the Cape of 
Good Hope, the Portuguese had enjoyed, as well as greatly 
abused, the adrantages of superior knowledge and art, amid a 
feeble and half-civihzed people. They explored the Indian Ocean 
as far as Japan ; visited islands rich in some of the fayourite pro- 
ductions of nature ; had achieved the most brilliant conquests ; 
and, by their commerce, poured into Europe, in unexampledl|lfro- 
fusion, those rare commodities of the east, on which the nations 
of the old world, at that time, set an extraordinary value. 

These new sources of wealth could not fail to attract the atten- 
tion of the other powers of Europe. For even when confined 
to the narrow limits which a carriage by land had prescribed, this 
trade was supposed to have elevated feeble states into powerful 
ones. History bears abundant proof that it contributed largely 
to the support of the Grecian monarchies, both in Syria and in 
Egypt ; for a long succession of year3 retarded the downfall of 
Constantinople ; and raised the otherwise obscure republic of 
Venice to the rank and influence of the most potent of kingdoms. 
No wonder, therefore, that the new channel opened by the Portu- 
guese to the east, should have aroused the cupidity of all the 
maritime powers of Europe. 

England had shared largely in the improvements of Europe at 
that period ; and that active spirit of commerce, which was des- 
tined to encompass the whole globe, had gone boldly forth ; while . 
the felicitous reign of Elizabeth was highly favourable to the 
accumulation of capital, and all of those projects on which the 
life of conmierce depends. 



868 VOTAOB OF THE POTOMAC. [Msf; 

During the sixteenth century, the merchants of Bristol had ex- 
tended their trade to the Canary Islands ; those of Plymouth to 
the coast of Guinea and Brazil ; the fisheries were prosecuted 
on the banks of Newfoundland ; i\^e 'exclusive trade of Russia 
was in their hands ; while to the Mediterranean, Germany, and 
the central ports of Europe, their trade was prosecuted with such 
rigour as to elicit the open jealousy of the Hanse Towns. 

The Protestant inhabitants of France and the Netherlands, fly- 
ing at that time from the persecutions of their bigoted govern- 
ments, contributed largely to the commercial resources of Eng- 
land, not more by the introduction of capital than of mechanical 
skUl. 

Spain was followed to the new world, and Cabot, in fourteen 
hundred and ninety-seven, traced these shores from Labrador to 
Virginia. In fifteen hundred and twenty-seven, a project was pre- 
sented to Henry the Eighth, which was intended to put England 
on a footing with Portugal, at that time claiming an exclusive 
privilege, and defending, by an armed force, the passage to the 
leasj^by the Cape of Good Hope. And this project was a north- 
west passage. Two efforts were made during the reign of that 
prince, and though imsuccessful, reflected the highest credit on 
the nautical skill of the English. Indeed, so ardent was the desire 
of England to share in the trade of the east, and so anxious to 
find a channel to which the monopolizing Portuguese could have 
no claim, that repeated efforts were made to make voyages to 
India, by the northwest, and also by the northeast passage. 
These voyages, though they extended the limits of geographical 
knowledge, and opened new channels of trade with the north of 
Russia, were unsuccessful, and several of them tragical in their 
results. 

During the many years spent in these unsuccessful projects, 
England had steadily increased in wealth and naval power ; so that 
in fifteen hundred and eighty-two, throwing aside all disguise, ves- 
sels to India were despatched by way of the Cape of Good Hope. 
Others followed, with a letter from Elizabeth to the Emperor of 
China. These voyages, though far from being profitable, did not 
in the least damp the commercial spirit of the people ; which, in 
fact, at this time, received a new impulse firom the remarkable 
voyage of Drake, who returned to Plymouth in fifteen hundred 



1632.] COMMERCIAL RIVALRY. dQ9 

and eighty, and exhibited to the wondering eyes of the spectators, 
the first ship in England, and the second in the world, that had 
circumnavigated the globe. An ardour formaritime exploits per- 
vaded the highest ranks. The Earls of Cumberland and Essex, 
Sir R. Grenville and Raleigh, Gilbert and Dudley, prepared 
squadrons at their own expense, and sailed in them to di£ferent 
parts of the world. 

In fifteen hundred and eighty-six, followed the celebrated voyage 
of Cavendish^ which, like that of Drake, was eminently suc- 
cessful. On the day of his arrival, he wrote to the chamberlain 
of Elisabeth as follows : — " I navigated to the Islands of Philip- 
pines, hard upon the coast of China, of which country I have 
brought such intelligence as hath not been heard of in these parts ; 
a country, the stateliness and riches of which I fear to make re- 
port of, lest I should not be credited. I sailed along the islands 
of Molucca, where, among some of the heathen people, I was 
well entreated, and where our countrymen may have trade as free 
as the Portugals, if they themselves will/' 

The tide of maritime adventure, so much augmented h||tliei 
return of these splendid voyages, now flowed naturally andstmUly 
to the east. 

In fifteen hundred and eighty-nine, '^ divers merchants" pe- 
titioned the lords of council for permission to send ships on a 
voyage to India ; which, in fifteen hundred and ninety-one, was 
followed by another expedition, set on foot, not so much with the 
view of trade, as to harass the Portuguese ; a species of com- 
mercial enterprise which our worthy ancestors appear to have uxi- 
derstood from a very early period of their history. 

The Dutch at this time ventured bcJdly, and sent. vessels by 
the East Cape to India. This spurred on the English, and in 
fifteen hundred and ninety-nine, an association was formed, and 
thirty thousand pounds subscribed. Political relations with Spain 
greatly retarded, but could not defeat the ccHnmercial spirit of the 
people ; so that in sixteen hundred, a charter of privileges was 
obtained, vessels were again prepared for the east, and thus was 
laid the foundation of a power so anomalous, and which, in the 
hands of the East India Company, has exercised so much influ-' 
ence in distributing the wealth of the world ! By repeated efforts^ 
sharp and hazardous conflicts with her more powerful competitorBi 

A a 



3tO VOyAGB OF THB POTOMAC. [MftJ, 

In sixteen hundred and twelve, England succeeded in getting a 
firm foothold in Indiaj and by imperial permission, established a 
factory on the soil, at that time, of one of the most extensive and 
splendid monarchies in the world. 

The Portuguese, solely on the pretence of discovery, continued 
to claim an exclusive right to the passage around the Cape of 
Good Hope, nor were they wanting in power vigorously to en- 
force that right. Their possessions in the east, at this period, 
were immense. By conquest or by agreement, they bad made 
themselves masters of Goa, Bombay ; of Aden, at the entrance of 
the Red Sea ; of Ormus, in the Persian Gulf; of part of the Ma- 
lay coast, in the Straits of Malacca; of the Molucca Islands; 
and of the coast of Ceylon, the very spice of all the eastern 
islands. They were possessed of factories in Bengal and in 
Siam ; and they had erected the city of Macao on the coast of 
China. 

The Dutch, after having shaken off the tranunels of Spain, 
had opened an extensive and active trade direct with India. With 
boi|^f these powerful competitors the English had to contend ; 
and with such vigour did they push their eastern enterprises, that 
in despite of superior power and much bad management on the 
part of directors, previous to the year sixteen hundred and six- 
teen, factories were established at Java, Sumatra, Borneo, the 
Banda Islands, Celebes, Malacca, Siam, the coasts of Malabar 
and Coromandel, but especially in the territories of the Great 
Mogul. On this success, a new subscription of one million six 
hundred thousand pounds was raised. 

The power of Portugal in the east began to fall off, from the 
union of that coimtry with Spain, whose monarch was wholly 
occupied with his golden schemes of aggrandizement in Spanish 
America ; while the Dutch now pursued their trade to the east 
with the utmost ardour, and were soon able to supplant the Portu- 
guese in the spice trade, and to expel them entirely from the 
Moluccas. The augmentation of capital in Holland was rapid 
beyond any previous example in any other country ; and a large 
portion of it was put into the trade of the east. England, mis- 
governed and oppressed, struggled hard, but with unequal power. 
Indeed, from this period, sixteen hundred and eighteen, up to six- 
teen hundred and fifty-eight, several conflicting companies existed. 



1892.] eOMMERCIAL RIVALKY. 371 

as merchant adveBturers, when the charter of die company was 
remodelled. 

In sixteen hundred and sixty-one, after the death of GromweH 
and accession of Charles the Second, a petition was presented to 
hhn for the renewal of the charter, which was granted, confirming the 
ancient privileges of the company, and vesting in them authority 
to make peace or war with any prince or people not being 
Christians, and to seize unlicensed persons and send them to Eng- 
land. This consigned almost the whole power of government to 
the directors and the servants. With all this increase of power^ 
the operations of the company were still languid, and many of the 
out-factories and agencies were suppressed. The wars on the 
Coromandel coast, and the overbearing influence of the Dutch, 
seemed to threaten the extinction of the English trade. In six- 
teen hundred and sixty-four, the French entered into this trade by 
the formation of a company. The Dutch still maintained the 
lead, and the English appear at this time to have made the dis- 
covery, that the numerous factories they supported consUBed''1lll 
their profits, — while the Dutch, more economical, traded at VMOitk 
points with the natives without the expense of heavy estt^Uiah- 
ments. The Dutch established a regency at Batavia and Co- 
lumbo. The English aimed at equal grandeur, and in sixteen hun- 
dred and eighty-seven, Bombay was elevated into the dignity of 
a regency, with unlimited power over the rest of the company's 
settlements. 

In seventeen hundred and eight, a union between all contend-* 
ing parties was effected, by the decision of Godolphin as um- 
pire ; and the privileges of exclusive trade founded on legislative 
authority ; and thus terminated the ritalship of contending com*- 
panics, which gave additional strength and effect ta British inters 
ests in the east. 

Seventeen hundred and forty-nine opened a new scene m the 
affairs of the company. The powers of Europe had been con* 
tending with each other, — ^particularly Spain and England ; and 
their respective colonies and distant establishments had suffered 
severely. 

Until this period, the company had maintained the noere character 
of traders. By humility and submission, they had sustained 
their interests, under the protection, and often the oppression of 

Aa2 



372 Y0TA6E OF THB POTOHAC. [May* 

ihe native princes. They now assumed a new attitude, and pre- 
pared to mix in the wars of the native powers. The French, also, 
were now very active, and attempted great things. The English 
were the first to draw the sword, for the poor motive of a trifling 
settlement on the Coromandel coast. But when have power and 
cupidity stood for rights, or regarded the interests of the weak ? 
Seldom, at any period ; much less at the one of which we are 
speaking. 

In seventeen hundred and fifty-one, the French, under that 
able conunander, Dupleix, had made extensive conquests ; their 
arms had generally been successful ; and that portion of the Mo- 
gul's dominions, from the Coromandel coast, and the river Kisna 
to Cape Comorin, was in their possession. The natives were 
astonished and panic-struck to behold a handful of foreigners, who 
had so recently been at the feet of petty governors, so suddenly 
extending their power, until the Mogul himself seemed scarcely 
secure on his throne. 

Even the English seemed to have sunk for a time into apathy 
and liespair before the superior energy of Dupleix. But in seven- 
teen hundred and fifty-four, the French and English governments 
at home became anxious for the restoration of peace among their 
subjects in India ; new commissioners were appointed ; Dupleix 
was superseded in the command by Goodheu, and an anmesty at 
once agreed upon. In this treaty, the English gained all by ne- 
gotiation which they had contended for with their arms ; while 
the French, in their desire for peace, made great sacrifices and al- 
most unlimited concessions. 

It was this treaty which led to the ascendency of the English 
East India Company, and they did not fail to take advantage of it, 
by pushing their conquests, as the French averred, in direct viola- 
tion of the sacred stipulations of the treaty ; and the consequence 
was, that the French found themselves again engaged in the war, 
with every advantage ceded in the treaty turned against them. 
They saw, when too late, the oversight in not having sustained 
Dupleix, who, more than any other man, was capable of extend- 
ing their interests in the east. 

In seventeen hundred and fifty-six, war again broke out between 
the English and French : the latter exerted all their efforts to re- 
gain what they had lost by the treaty. The talented and unfor- 



1838.] COMMERCIAL RITALRT. 373 

tunate Count Lally was commissioned in charge of the French 
interest, and, for a time, eyery thing seemed to promise a complete 
ascendency. But the English, like certain colonies once in their 
possession, " the more they were whipped, the more they would 
not stay whipped," being now guided in their councils by the 
transcendent genius of the elder Pitt, soon regained what they 
had lost, and parried their victorious arms to all parts of the 
world. The dark intrigues of the Camatic now followed in 
quick succession. New sultans were set up, and old nabobs. put 
down, as these moTements promised a profitable entry on the 
company's leger. From seventeen hundred and sixty to seven- 
teen hundred and eighty-four, the English power, under the man- 
agement of the East India Company, increased rapidly. Though 
the history of her conquests in India, like all other European 
nations, is little else than a history of continued aggression, full 
of injustice and sickening detail : and it is a matter of astonish* 
ment, that a nation like Great Britain, so watchfully jealous of 
her commercial rights, should so long have permitted her honour 
and her true interests to remain in the keeping of a bfeartlMi, 
grasping, and almost irresponsible company; a company which 
has extended its power among a disunited and feeble people, 
until it embraces nearly the whole of that vast region, which ex- 
tends from Cape Comorin to the mountains of Tibet, and from 
the mouth of the river Bohmapootra to the Indus. 

How often has the British nation been called on to sustain, with 
her best blood, the military operations and schemes of conquest 
of this company, among the imbecile princes of India ? And all 
for what purpose, except to raise up an anomalous power, which 
has shackled for so many years the enterprise of British mer- 
chants, and been a heavy tax on the British nation ? 

It was at this period, seventeen hundred and eighty-four, when 
the war of our revolution had been so gloriously terminated in the 
establishment of our independence, that the maritime spirit and 
intelligence of our own merchants, no longer shackled by op- 
pressive colonial restrictions, looked abroad to all parts of the 
globe ; and, though with limited capital, soon gave an earnest of 
that expansive enterprise, which has added so much to our national 
prosperity and power, and from which such high destinies may 
await us in all coming time. 



374 VOYA.GE OF THE POTOMAC. (May, 

The city of New-York has the honour of having sent the first 
vessel to Canton, and the particulars of the voyage, as given by 
her supercargo to the Hon. John Jay, at that time secretary of 
state, is so full of interest, and so different from the first voyages 
of other nations to that part of the world, that we cannot refuse 
to our readers the gratification jof its perusal. 

Letter from Samuel Shcnv to John Jay. 

"New-York, May 19, 1785. 

" Sir,— 

'^ The first vessel that has been fitted out by the inhabitants of 
the United States of America, for essaying a commerce with 
those of the empire of China, being by the favour of Heaven safe 
returned to this port, it becomes my duty to communicate to you, 
for the information of the fathers of the country, an accoimt of 
the reception their subjects have met with, and the respect with 
which their flag has been treated in that distant region ; especially 
as some circumstances have occurred which had a tendency to 
attract the attention of the Chinese towards a people of whom 
they have hitherto had but very confused ideas; and which 
served, in a peculiar manner, to place the Americans in a more 
conspicuous point of view than has commonly attended the intro- 
duction of other nations into that ancient and extensive empire. 

" The ship employed on this occasion is about three hundred 
and sixty tons burden, built in America, and equipped with forty- 
three persons, under the command of John Green, Esquire. The 
subscriber had the honour of being appointed agent for their 
commerce, by the gentlemen at whose risk this first experiment 
has been undertaken. 

" On the twenty-second of February, seventeen hundred and 
eighty-four, the ship sailed from New- York, and arrived on the 
twenty-first March at St. Jago, the principal of the Cape de Verd 
Islands. Having paid our respects to the Portuguese viceroy, and 
with his permission taken such refreshments as were necessary, 
we left those islands on the twenty-seventh, and pursued our voyage. 
After a pleasant passage, in which nothing extraordinary occurred, 
we came to anchor in the Straits of Sunda on the eighteenth July, 
It was no small addition to our happiness on this occasion, to meet 
there two ships belonging to our good allies the French. The com- 



1832.] COMMERCIAL RIVALRY. 375 

modoreyMonsieur Dordelin, and his officers^i^elcoined us in the most 
afifectionate manner ; and as his own ship was immediately bomid 
to Canton, gave us an invitation to go in. company with him. This 
friendly offer we most cheerfully accepted, and the commodore 
furnished us with his signals by day and night, and added such 
instructions for our passage . through the Chinese Seas, as would 
have been exceedingly beneficial had any unfortunate accident 
occasioned our separation. Happily, we pursued our route to- 
gether. On our arrival at the Island of Macao, the French consul 
for China, Monsieur Vieillard, with some other gentlemen of his 
nation, came on board to congratulate and welcome us to that part 
of the world, and kindly undertook the introduction of the Ameri- 
cans to the Portuguese governor. The little time that we were 
there was entirely taken up by the good offices of the consul, the 
gentlemen of his nation, and those of the Swedes and Imperial- 
ists who still remained at Macao. The other Europeans had 
repaired to Canton. Three days afterward, we finished our out- 
ward-bound voyage. Previous to coming to anchor, we saluted 
the shipping in the river with thirteen guns, which were answered 
by the several commodores of the European nations, .each of 
whom sent an officer to compliment us on our arrival. These 
visits were returned by the captain and supercargoes, in the after- 
noon, who were again saluted by the respective ships as they 
finished dieir visit. When the French sent their officers to con^- 
gratulate us, they added to the obligations we were already under 
to them, by furnishing men, boats, and anchors, to assist us in 
coming to safe and convenient moorings. Nor did their' good 
offices stop here; they furnished us with part of their own 
banksall, and insisted further, that until we were settled, we should 
take up our quarters with them at Canton. 

*' The day of our arrival at Canton, August thirtieth, and the 
two following days, we were visited by the Chinese merchants, 
and the chiefs and gentlemen of the several European establish- 
ments, and treated by them in all respects as a free and indepen- 
dent nation. As such, during our stay, we were universally con- 
sidered. The Chinese themselves were very indulgent towards 
us, though our being the first American ship that had ever visited 
China, it was some time before they could fully comprehend the 
distinction between Englishmen and us. They styled us the 



376 VOYAGE OF THE POTOMAC. [Maj, 

new people ; and when, by the map, we conveyed to them an 
idea of the extent of our country, with its present and increasing 
population, ihey were highly pleased at the prospect of so con- 
siderable a market for the productions of theirs. 

'' The situation of the Europeans at Canton is so well known as 
to render a detail unnecessary. The good understanding com- 
monly subsisting between them and the Chinese, was, in some 
degree, interrupted by two occurrences, of which, as they were 
extraordinary in themselves, and led to a more full investigation 
of the American character, by both parties, than might otherwise 
have taken place, I will, with your permission, give a particular 
account. 

" The police at Canton is at all times extremely strict, and the 
Europeans there are circumscribed within very narrow limits. 
The latter had observed, with concern, some circumstances which 
they deemed an encroachment upon their rights. On this con* 
sideration, they determined to apply for redress to the hoppo, who 
is the head officer of the customs, the next time he should visit the 
shipping. Deputies accordingly attended from every nation, and 
I was desired to represent ours. We met the hoppo on board an 
English ship, and the causes of complaint were soon after re- 
moved. 

" The'other occurrence^ of which I beg leave to take notice, gave 
^se to what was commonly called the Canton war, which threatened 
to be productive of very serious consequences. On the twenty- 
fifth of November, an English ship, in saluting some company that 
had dined on board, killed a Chinese, and wounded two others in 
the mandarin's boat alongside. It is a maxim of the Chinese law, 
that blood must answer for blood ; in pursuance of which, they 
demanded the unfortunate gunner. To give up this poor man 
was to consign him to certain death. Humaixity pleaded power- 
fully against the measure. After repeated conferences between 
the English and the Chinese, the latter declared themselves 
satisfied, and the aflfair was supposed to be entirely settled. Not- 
withstanding this, on the morning after the last conference (the 
twenty-seventh), the supercargo of the ship was seized while 
attending his business, thrown into a sedan-chair, hurried into the 
city, and committed to prison. Such an outrage on personal 
liberty spread a general alarm ; and the Europeans unanimously 



1832.] COHVERCIAL RIVALRT. 377 

agreed to send for their boats, witH vmed men from the shipping, 
for the security of themselves and property, until the matter 
should be brought to a conclusion. The boats accordingly came, 
and ours among the number ; one of which was fired on, and a 
iBan wounded. All trade was stopped, and the Chinese men-of- 
war drawn up opposite the factories. The Europeans demanded 
the restoration of Mr. Smith, which the Chinese- refused, until 
the gunner should be given up. In the meanwhile, the troops of 
the province were collecting in the neighbourhood of Canton ; the 
Chinese servants were ordered by the magistrates to leave the 
factories ; the gates of the suburbs were shut ; all intercourse 
was at an end ; the naval force was increased ; many troops were 
embarked in boats, ready for landing ; and every thing wore the 
appearance of war. To what extremities matters might have 
been carried, had not a negotiation taken place, no one can say. 
The Chinese asked a conference with all the nations, except the 
English. A deputation, in which I was included for America, 
met the fuen, who is the head magistrate of Canton, with the 
principal officers of the province. After setting forth, by an 
interpreter, the power of the emperor, and his own determinatioa 
to support the laws, he demanded that the gunner should be given 
up within three days ; declaring that he should have an impartial 
examination before their tribunal, and if it appeared that the affair 
was accidental, he should be released unhurt. In the meantime 
he gave permission for the trade, excepting that of the English, 
to go on as usual ; and dismissed us with a present of two pieces 
of silk to each, as a mark of his friendly disposition. The other 
nations, one after another, sent away their boats, under protection 
of a Chinese flag, and pursued their business as before. The 
English were obliged to submit ; the gunner was given up ; Mr. 
Smith was released ; and the English, after being forced to ask 
pardon of the magistracy of Canton in the presence of the other 
nations, had their commerce restored. On this occasion, I am 
happy that we were the last who sent off our boat, which was not 
disgraced with a Chinese flag ; nor did she go until the English 
themselves thanked us for our concurrence with them, and ad- 
vised to the sending her away. After peace was restored, the 
chief, and four English gentlemen, visited the several nations, 
among whom we were included, and thanked them for their as- 



378 VOYAGE OP THE POTOMAC. [May, 

sistance during the troubles. The gunner remained with the 
Chinese — his fate undetermined. 

*' Notwithstanding the treatment we received from all parties was 
perfectly civil and respectful, yet it was with pecuUar satisfaction 
that we experienced, on every occasion, from our good aUies the 
French,' the most flattering and substantial proofs of their friend- 
ship. *If,' said they, 'we have, in any instance, been service- 
able to you, we are happy ; and we desire nothing more ardently 
than further opportunities to convince you of our afifection.' The 
harmony maintained between them and us was particularly 
noticed by the English, who more than once observed, that it was 
matter of astonishment to them that the descendants of Britons 
would so soon divest themselves of prejudices which they had 
thought to be not only hereditary, but inherent in our nature. 

'^ We left Canton the twenty-seventh December, and on our 
return, refreshed at the Cape of Good Hope, where we found a 
most friendly reception. After remaining there five days, we 
sailed for America, and arrived in this port on the eleventh instant. 

" To every lover of his country, as well as to those more imme- 
diately concerned in commerce, it must be a pleasing reflection 
that a conununication is thus happily opened between us and the 
eastern extreme of the globe ; and it adds very sensibly to the 
pleasure of this reflection, that the voyage has been performed in 
so short a space of time, and attended with the loss of only one 
man. To Captain Greene and his officers, every commendation 
is due, for their unwearied and successful endeavours in bringing 
it to this most fortunate issue, which fully justifies the confidence 
reposed in them by the gentlemen concerned in the enterprise. 

" Permit me, sir, to accompany this letter with the two pieces 
of silk presented to me by the Fuen of Canton, as a mark of his 
good disposition towards the American nation. In that view, I 
consider myself as peculiarly honoured in being charged with this 
testimony of the friendship of the Chinese, for a people who may, 
in a few years, prosecute a commerce with the subjects of that 
empire under advantages equal, if not superior, to those enjoyed 
by any other nation whatever. 

" I have the honour to be, &c., 

" Samuel Shaw. 

" Hon. John Jay, SecraUiy of State.*' 



1832.] COMMERCIAL RIYALRT. 379 

Such was the felicitous commencement of our commercial 
intercourse with the " Celestial Empire ;" a commencement that 
will form an epoch in the history of our foreign trade, to which 
*the pen of the commercial historian must ever recur with feelings 
of national piide. Our trade from that period increased rapidly, 
and we regret that our limits compel us to pass on, without being, 
able to notice many incidents full of interest, which we had 
collected for the embellishment of this part of our work. 

By seventeen hundred and ninety-five, our exports to China and 
the East Indies generally, amounted to one million twenty-three 
thousand two hundred and forty-two dollars ; while our imports 
were one million one hundred and forty-four thousand one hundred 
and three dollars. By the year seventeen hundred and ninety- 
nine, our impcMts had increased to the astonishing amoimt of three 
millions two hundred and nineteen thousand two hundred and 
sixty-two dollars. Java, Sumatra, Ceylon, indeed, every accessi- 
ble part of India, had noiy seen the flag of the new people who 
bad so recently sprung into existence in the far west. Canton 
was the point of greatest attraction, for there was centred the 
heaviest portion of our commercial operations in the east ; and 
there it has continued, as will be seen by the following table, 
showing the number of vessels, amount of tonnage, quantity of 
specie imported into, as well as the Tahie of merchandise ex- 
ported from Canton, in American vessels, from the years eighteen 
hundred and four and five, to eighteen hundred and thirty-two and 
thirty-three, inclusive. 



? THE POTOMAC. 



[May, 



SSWDM. 


VmsoIs. 


Ton^ge. 


I'oIIbt*. 


Total Value, 


\sm- 6 


34 


10,159 


3.903,000 


(3,555,818 


1806- 6 


43 


12,480 


4.176.000 


5,336.358 


1806- 7 




11,268 


3,895.000 


3,877,363 


1807- B 


33 


8,soa 


3.033,000 


3.940,090 


1808- 9 




S.215 


70,000 


479,850 


1809-10 


37 


13,512 


4,723,000 


6,744.600 


!810-lt 


16 


4,748 


3,330,000 


3.898,800 


ien-ia 


35 


7,4oa 


1,876,000 


3.133.810 


1SI3-13 


8 


i,aia 


616.000 


1,453,000 


ISIS-HI 
18lt-ISi 


9 


S,S54 




461,600 


1816-16 


30 


10,308 


1,925,000 


3,527.600 


1819-17 


88 


13,098 


4,646,000 


6,609,600 


1817-16 


39 


14,325 


6,601,000 


7,076,838 


1818-19 


47 


16,377 


7,369,000 


9,867,308 


1819-SO 


43 


16,145 


6,359,300 


8,186,900 


1820-ai 


26 


8,663 


3,560.600 


4.035.000 


i8ii-aa 


4S 


15,597 


5,135,000 


S. 199.741 


lan-ss 


40 


14,557 


6.302,840 


8,339,388 


1833-34 


34 


13.069 


4,096.000 


6,315,137 


I8M~S5 


43 


16.368 


8.534.6O0 


8,963,046 


1835-38 


43 


16.431 


8,736.300 


7.776,301 


1839^37 


36 


9.S66 


1,841,168 


4,343,617 


1837-38 


29 


12.090 


8.840.300 


6,SM,8fl7 


1838-39 


37 


B.013 


1.388,500 


4,030,865 


1839-30 


34 


11,670 


1,123,644 


4,3ll,!8S 


1S3U~31 


34 


6.999 


183,656 
lSill.otE.i;h. 
3,480.871 


4.383.475 46 










1831-3S 


34 


11,367 


867,353 

Bilkof Eicb. 
4,773,516 


6,531,807 68 


issa^ 


61 


ao,6si 


688,619 


8.362,971 36 



During the last two years, this important trade has continued 
to increase. The whole number of vessels which aniTed in 
China, and departed therefrom, under the American flag, during 
the year ending June thirtieth, eighteen hundred and thirty-four, 
was seventy-nine. Of these, thirty-three sailed for the city of 
New-York, thirteen for Manilla, nine for Batavia, six for Phila- 
delphia, four for Boston, three for Valparaiso, four for Cowea, 
one for Lima, one for Baltimore, one for Salem, one for the 
Teiel, one for Hamburgh, one for Kamlschatka, one for Norfolk 
Sound, one for the United States, port not specified, and one for 
South America, port not designated. Thus do we stand, second 
only to Great Britain, in the extent and importance of our com- 
mercial interests in the east ; and it is not easy to estimate the 
vast field which will be opened to the commercial enterprise of 
our merchants, should a freer and more extended trade be effected 



1832.] COMIIXRCIAL RIVALRY. 381 

with the industrioufl and numerous population of China, exceed- 
ing in respect to numbers, extent, and natural resources, the ag- 
gregate amount of all the nations of civilized Europe. 

That the ports will ultimately be opened, that trade is now ex- 
tended, in some degree, in despite of imperial edicts, to other ports 
besides Canton, cannot be denied. We have examined with great 
interest most of the late parhamentary proceedings connected 
with British interests in this quarter. The numerous highly 
respectable and intelligent witnesses examined by order of the 
House of Commons, have thrown more light on the true condition 
of China, and the nature and prospect of trade there, than has 
been given to the world for a century before. All agree in repre- 
senting the Chinese as decidedly one of the most commercial 
nations on the globe ; mechanically steady in the attainment of 
the objects of their pursuit, and ever ready to trade with any and 
every one who visits their country. We speak now of the people. 
The government, or present reigning family, has not occupied 
the throne more than two hundred years ; is weak, not only on 
aoGount of its foreign origin, but from its extended empire ; its 
only strength being in the ignorance and weakness of its subjectSir 
The government, therefore, is averse to trade, and jealous of tat* 
eigners, knowing what has been done by them in India. Take 
away all apprehension of obtrusion, and the emperor will be as 
desirous of carrying on trade as the people themselves. 

This jealousy has doubtless led in a great part, but not wholly^ 
to the many annoying and humiUating restrictions in commerce^ 
to which all nations have submitted. Keen, sagacious, and ob« 
serving, the Chinese were not long in perceiving that foreigners 
would submit to any indignity for motives of gain. Does any 
one doubt it ? Let him take the trouble to examine the reports 
of the East India Company for the last fifty years, and he wiU 
find abundant evidence of the humiliating and subservient 
spirit in which the company has submitted to all kinds of 
insults and impositions from the Chinese, rather than hazard even 
a partial interruption in their trade. To allow one of his majesty's 
ships-of-war, with a flag at the mizzen-peak, '* which we respect, 
though we do not fear," that has been so often victorious on every 
sea, to be measured and pay duty as a merchant vessel, is only 
one of the degradations which might be named. From this un^ 



883 voTAGB OP THX POTOMAC. [May, 

becoming and highly impolitic subsenriency, no nation can claim 
entire exemption, though the English may thank their company 
for having gone further than any other in running the race of dis-* 
honour. 

It was the same miserable gain-saving policy which permitted 
the unfortunate gunner of the Lady Hughes to be delivered up 
and strangled by the Chinese, in seventeen hundred and eighty-* 
four. From that moment they became more imperious ; for in 
that act they saw the company would submit to any thing, even 
to the sacrifice of human life, rather than hazard a small deficit 
in their leger ; that their trade was secure, whatever insults they 
might heap on the '' barbarians," or however immoderately indulge 
in their afifected superiority in publishing sudi edicts as the fol-* 
lowing : — 

"Foreigners are not permitted volimtarily to present state-* 
ments to government ; they are indebted to the clemency of the 
emperor for their trade, as also for the permission to tread the 
ground and to eat the herbs in common with the Chinese. Ify 
after the publication of this edict, it occurs, that foreigners pre- 
sume, of their own account, to make application, the viceroy will, 
on discovery, request his majesty's permission to punish them 
severely." 

What insufferable insolence ! Indebted to the clemency of the 
emperor for the trade ! and how long have foreigners acquiesced 
in this preposterous assumption ! Why, the truth is, the tea- 
trade has always been of equal or more importance to the Chinese 
than to any other people, indispensable as it has become. A trade 
which yields to the emperor at least one third of his revenue, — 
nearly all his circulating mediiun, and supports, directly or indi- 
rectly, millions of his subjects. — He stop the trade ! he cannot do 
it if he would, for any considerable length of time, at a less price 
than the cost of his throne ! 

" A man is needed in India," said "Napoleon. A man has been 
there in the person of the late lamented Lord Napier,' who has 
recently died amid the discharge of arduous duties at Canton. 
His name will be remembered as a benefactor to the commercial 
world. The English have made a good beginning, in battering 
down the Chinese forts on the river Canton ; we hope they will 
follow it up, and with increased forces teach the Chinese a still 



1832.] COHMSRCIAL RITALAY. 883 

more impressive lesson ** of barbarian justice and prowess." A 
certain amount of fighting* is necessary, and the sooner it is done 
the better ; it will be worth a dozen embassies to the Celestial 
throne, though the ambassador should again do, as McCartney 
did, allow a flag to wave over his head, with the motto, *' the 
ambassador of the King of England bearing tribute to the Em- 
peror of China ;" or, as the Dutch ambassad(» Jitzing, crawl on 
his all-fours, ahd butt his head nine times on the ground when he 
came in presence of the " son of ten thousand years." We want 
at present no embassies to Pekin, unless backed by armed ships, 
with orders to firighten the mandarins by a show of power, and 
to use it too, if necessary. This is the only suitable diplomacy 
for the Chinese, and would be worth a hundred embassies of Lord 
Amherst, who was instructed to say, that he had no commercial 
objects in view ; that he had been sent half round the world to 
manifest the regard of his Britannic majesty for his Imperial majesty, 
and to improve the relations of amity that so happily subsisted 
between their illustrious parents — Kien-lung and George the 
Third. 

It is time this puerile policy should be abandoned, since '* the 
experience of centuries has taught Europeans that the Chinese 
authorities will heap insult on insult upon them, when it can be 
done with impunity to themselves and their interests ; but, when 
an opponent supports his arguments with physical force, or ihehr 
interests demand it, they can be crouching, gentle, and even 
kind." 

If the legal trade should be stopped, the contraband will take 
its place; for those who are now engaged in it, buy and sell of 
whom and to virhom they please, without the least regard to the 
imperial edicts, which aim to restrict all trade to the seven Hong 
merchants of Canton. Does any one doubt this, let him reflect, 
that the laws of the empire make it death to smuggle opium, and 
yet no less than ten millions, and some years as high as fourteen mill- 
ions worth of this drug is introduced into the kingdom ! The gbvem- 



* The English, who have so oflen fought the battles of their continental neigh- 
bours, will, most probably, perform this senrice, from which we shall be equally bene- 
fited ; and should they now, as formerly, be content with the glory they may ac- 
quire for their pay, — we cannot object, proTided we increase our trade, and increaae 
it we will. 






884 VOYAGE OP THE POTOMAC. [Hajy 

ment has not the power, if it have the inclination, to put down this 
trade. Smuggling vessels have been up the coast as &r as Kingpo, 
and disposed of their cargoes for the ** precious metals.^ Much 
has been smuggled into the ports of Chingchoo, in the province 
of Fokien, and the traders were '^ well entreated" by the inhab- 
itants. The northern districts will, ere long, o£fer a fine market ; 
lon^ ells, fine broadcloth, blankets, and camlets, are among the 
articles in demand. 

Speckled along the whole coast of China lie not less than one 
thousand islands, many of them possessing all the requisites for 
trading stations ; and whether situated near to, or at some dis- 
tance from the main, they are all beyond the influence and con- 
trol of the emperor, with all his affectation of power ! What shall 
prevent one of the Ladrone Islands firom being used as a market^ 
place for the trade of all nations ? All grounds for dispute be- 
tween the Chinese and foreigners would thus be happily removed^ 
Other stations further north should be selectedf so as to embrace 
the business of the northern provinces, anddms may ultimately 
be opened one of the most extensive trades in the world. 

Our grand competitors,* the English, are looking out for every 



* American merchants feel superior to the competition of other nations. Bnt in 
the now open trade with the east, who is it thej are to compete with 1 They will 
find one of their competitors to be the house of Baring, Brothers, & Co., the active 
partner in which great establishment is an American, whose command of capital at 
low rates of ipterest is unlimited, and whose ships, built on the latest American 
model, are already east of the Cape, navigated with small and selected crews, under 
TBMPBRANCB RBOULATioNs. Nor is this all. The eastern voyages out and home 
are one operation, and an advantage on one part is a superiority on the whole. Be- 
yond a perfect equality, as equally able, merchants, in English competitors, have a 
great superiority given in some respects by the blunders in our tariff law. For in- 
■tance, in the great Chinese staple, silk, second only to teas in value. We cannot 
import on fair terms of competition, either the raw material or the manufacture. 
The raw silk is taxed 12i per cent., while the same material is carried free to England, 
and thence imported, manufactured, and free also. Take, again, a great article in 
silk goods, the white goods for printing ; these are manufactured low in China. But 
if imported direct for printing at home they pay the 10 per cent, duty, while the same 
goods are carried to England, entered in bond, printed, and exported to America, to 
come in duty free, and without the possibility of being verified as a Chinese manu- 
facture. Such legislation prostrates two great interests ; that of the honest importer, 
who will not, though his government tempt him, importiiis Chinese silks as English^ 
and that of the American proprietor of print-works. We would add a third, the 
silk-weaver, bnt such regulations will never permit him lo come into existence. 



1832.] COMMBRCIAL RIVAJJIY. 385 

advantage which the new state of things may offer in China, — ^we 
cannot be idle or indifferent spectators. It is time our public 
vessels were on the ground, under judicious instructers, that our 
knowledge may keep pace with the events as they transpire. Com- 
merce has constantly increased with the knowledge of man, yet 
it has been undergoing perpetual revolutions? These changes 
and revolutions have often mocked the vigilance .of the wary and 
the calculations of the sagacious ; but there is now a fundamental 
principle in commerce/ which will enable the intelligent merchant 
and wise government to foresee and provide for most of these 
changes, — ^and that is, a thorough and extended knowledge of the 
dispositions, habits, and necessities of the people, and of the natural 
capacities and resources of the country where we have commer- 
cial intercourse. At no period of our history has this knowledge 
of China been so essential to our interests as at the present mo- 
ment. 

Thus speaks an Enghsh writer'^ — ''Let us evidence in the 
strongest manner, along the whole coast and in every port of China^ 
our naval power, and manifest the ease with which that power, 
when duly exerted, could cut off the internal and external sup- 
plies of the empire. Lict us add to science by a complete survey 
of the coasts of China, Japan, and Corea, and of the Loo-choo 
islands. The prosecution of these surveys would necessarily de- 
tain H. M. ships frequently in the waters of China, where they 
shouM insist on paying and receiving such courtesies as are be- 
coming and customary between civilized nations at peace with 
each other; demanding supplies of provisions and water as a 
matter of course, and in the usual way these affairs are managed 
in other countriesj at the same time the merchants of Great 
Britain would be pushing their enterprises in all quarters, under 
the constant protection and frequent presence of H. M. ships." 

Here, indeed, is " a new world of matter for a world of mind.** 
We, too, must be on the alert, to show the Chinese that we have 
naval power to any extent we please ; but, at the same time, that 
we are content with our own extent of territory, and would not ac- 
cept of any portion of another country if it were freely offered 
us. The Island of Polo Condore, in 8* north latitude, and almost 
within sight of the coast of Cambodia, should be examined by 

Bb 



886 voTAOE OF THE POTOMAC. [May, 

our public yessels; and let them look to, and report ony the 
islands in the neighbourhood of Amoy, in 24* north. Ia^th«re not 
one near Wampoa, to which prohibited goods and other articles are 
now brought, and freely exchanged with foreigners, without the 
slightest impediments from the mandarins ? Liet this matter be 
looked into *, away with all secrecy, all monopoly — ^give us open 
and fair competition, however the odds may be againdt us ! 

The teas consumed in Cochin China are brought from Tchot- 
chen and Fokien, and with equal facility might soon be transferred 
to a neighbouring island, and shipped from thence to any part of 
the world. To these free depositories of trade, the Chinese 
would flock and settle in great numbers, as they have done at 
Batavia, Sincapore, Penang, &;c., and through them the trade would 
be carried on. No one well acquainted with the Chinese char- 
acter can doubt that such would be the case, particularly whei) 
informed that trading vessels have recently touched at many of 
the nominally sealed ports north of Canton, and disposed of large 
cargoes, for specie, to the Chinese merchants residing in Amoy, 
Tato, Namo, and at the port of the great city of Tyho ; while 
other articles, such as tea, cassia, tortoise-shell, nankeens, &c. 
were freely offered. 

They have abundant craft for this trade ; no less than eighty 
junks have been seen at a time at Siam ; some as large as eight 
hundred tons, and bearing large quantities of tea. Indeed, they 
carry on a coasting trade from Canton to Souchon, in the district 
of Kiannan, and as far as 37* north, within the Yellow Sea. 

Who then can doubt that they would come with these junks 
to a commercial station, bringing with them the products of their 
own labour and skill, to be exchanged for foreign merchandise 7 
The emperor, his viceroy, and mandarins, have no power to pre- 
vent the people and outside merchants from carrying on contra- 
band trade in the river and very vicinity of Canton ; much less, 
therefore, can they interfere with, or prevent a trade conducted 
at a short distance from the main. 

Sincapore, though twenty degrees too far south, must by a free 
trade become a place of increased importance. Its insular po- 
sition in the great thoroughfare of eastern traffic, in the midst of 
seas navigable at all seasons, and studded vnth islands presenting 
every variety of production ; the salubrity of its climate, and its 



1632.] COMMERCIAL RITALRY. 387 

gre^ capability for naral and mercantile purposes, will make it 
a pcmst interesting to the commercial world. 

Again, then, we repeat, let our ggyemment look to the east ; 
let our flag be seen at the different ports of China, Corea, For- 
mosa, Loo-Choo, &c. &c. These ports and islands afford an 
ample field for us at the present time, nor should a day be lost. 
The expense must be incurred: suitable agents and linguists 
employed to co-operate with our conunanders of public vessels ; 
not in coaxing, and flattery, and prayers, and humiliating petitions ; 
but in the spirit of that steady, firm, judicious policy, which a 
wise council should know how to give, and the intelligent merchant 
be able to turn to good account. 

For three centuries has the commerce of the east been shackled 
by ill-advised companies and monopolies, while an impenetrable 
veil has been spread out, to hide from the rest of the world the 
true condition of those countries. These abuses are slowly, 
but surely drawing to a close. Great Britain is our great com- 
petitor in the new and glorious competition for free trade In that 
quarter of the world ; and great and decidedly as are the advan- 
tages in her favour, we must, in the spirit of generous rivalry, nail to 
the mast-head our motto, '' free trade and sailors' rights," and leave 
the result to time. 

The ports of India will become free — Calcutta, Goa, Manilla, 
and Macao must follow, should Bombay lead ; and then, with the 
spirit of free commercial zeal animating the English, French, 
Spanish, and Portuguese, and we continuing our oym system, which 
knows not the word restriction, who shall say, that the po^ts of 
the Chinese shall continue closed against the persevering enter- 
prise of the Old and the New world ! 

Bb2 



t*-^ 






968 TOTAOS OF THE POTOMAC. [May, 



CHAPTER XXI. 

Tbe Potomac sails from CsntoD — ^The Bashee Straits — ^llie nsrlheast tradewind — 
Cause and descrq>tion of the tradewinds — Periodical winds — ^Monsoons — The 
sirocco, the simoon, land and seabreezes — Perennial and TariaUe winds— An East 
India royage ; its natural facilities — Period for commencing one — Reflections 
arising fr^m the subject — ^Arrival at the Sandwich Islands. 

A FEW days after the return of our officers from Canton, the 
frigate having, in the meantime, been completely supplied with 
water, proyistons, &c., got under way at Lintin Bay, and pro- 
ceeded to her former anchorage off Macao, from whence she 
proceeded to sea on the following day, with a light breeze and 
pleasant weather. The breeze freshened as she cleared the land, 
and loQg before nightfall, the sky had become overcast with thick 
black clouds. The Potomac was now dashing along at the rate 
of eleven knots, with her yards nearly square, when a light was 
discovered almost directly ahead, and in the next moment the 
frigate was alongside of a large vessel, moving with almost equal 
rapidity towards the bay we had just left. The thickness of the 
atmosphere had concealed the two vessels from each other until 
their proximity had become somewhat perilous to both, for a few 
feet more would have brought them in contact ; and such was the 
velocity with which they passed each other, that the hurried 
mquiry of " What vessel is that ?" was lost to the ear of all 
but the interrogator. 

Onward flew the stranger, and with equal speed forward dashed 
the Potomac, as if ambitious of redeeming the time she had 
spent in the waters of the " Celestial Empire." Her course 
was laid for what is called the Bashee Passage, a well-known 
outlet from the Chinese Sea into the mighty Pacific, formed by a 
chain or cluster of numerous islands lying to the south of For- 
mosa, about ninety miles east of Canton. The island which 
gives its name to the whole cluster, of which it is the most eastern, 
is of a circular form, six miles in diameter, and has a town on it 
of the same name. Its productions are plantains, bananas, pine^ 






^ 



18S2.] WINDS. 389 

apples, sugarcane, potatoes, yams, and cotton, with numerous 
goatl( and hogs. Most of the islands in the cluster are consider- 
ably elevated, and vessels can run between them with safety if 
the weather be clear ; as it is supposed that there are no hidden 
dangers around them, though breakers are visible at a considerable 
distance. 

The morning wl^en thes& islands were expected to be seen 
from the deck of the Potomac, was too thick for that purpose, 
though the wind was blowing fresh. The frigate entered the 
passage at the rate o( ten knots ; when the wind suddenly came 
out ahead, and took the ship aback. She was got off with diffi- 
culty, and filled away, when the wind had increased to almost a 
gale. On she dashed, without making either of the islands, 
chough but a short distance from them, and entered the great 
Pacific with increasing velocity. 

The threatening appearances which had disfigured the atmo- 
sphere, softened in their aspect, and passed away, as the Potomac 
left the Chinese Sea behind her ; and her sails in due time were 
filled with the welcome northeast tradewind, favoured by whose 
friendly influence the frigate now shaped her course across the 
broad Pacific, towards the well-known Sandwich Islands. As 
nothing of interest occurred to relieve the tedious monotony of 
this passage of fifty days, we cannot, perhaps, better beguile the 
time than by recording the result of our observations on the pre- 
vailing winds of this interesting region of the globe ; especially 
as we have just attached some importance to the northeast trade' 
wind^ which was expected to accompany the Potomac on her 
long and lonely route of ten thousand miles ! 

Those aerial currents which are called winds, are naturally 
distinguished into two kinds, constant and variable. The former, 
which are better known by the name of tradeunnds^ prevail, with 
little exception, between the tropics ; and, like tha great equato- 
rial current of the ocean, circulate round the globe from east to 
west They extend to about thirty degrees on each side of the- 
equator, and blow with a steady breeze, almost the whole year, 
from an eastern to a western quarter of the heavens, where their 
course is not interrupted by land. Their direction^ however, de- 
clines several degrees from due east and west, corresponding to 
the declination of the sun, either north dr south. 



./'• 



890 TOYAGB OF THK POTOMAC. [H^Jf 

The cause of the tradewind^ so remarkable on account of its 
general uniformhy everywhere between the tropics, is principally 
owing to the joint influence of the superior temperature of the 
torrid zone, and the rotation of the earth on its own axis. The 
air at the surface of the earth being highly rarefied between the 
tropics, naturally ascends by its acquired levity into the higher 
regions of the atmosphere ; while its place is supplied by the 
colder air rushing firom the poles towards the equator. This new- 
comer soon becomes rarefied like its predecessor, and ascends in 
its turn, and is ultimately carried towards the two poles, to 
suj^ly the deficiency caused by the continual stream from these 
points. 

An aerial current is thus established, constantly proceeding 
from. the poles towards the equator, in the lower regions. Each 
of these polar currents, moving in its progress towards the equator, 
from zones where the earth's motion on its axis is slower, to others 
where it is more rapid, cannot have the same velocity eastward 
as the solid parts of the globe ; and, therefore, the aerial parti- 
cles of which it is composed, gradually acquire a relative motion 
in an opposite direction. The currents from the two hemispheres 
meeting near the equator, and verging, each of them, towards the 
west, the meridional motions are destroyed by being In opposite 
directions ; and they therefore advance together, with the remain- 
ing motion from the eastward, all round the globe. 

But there are certain situations, where the tradewind is not 
only interrupted in its general course towards the west, but is ac- 
tually suspended, and succeeded by a wind blowing in an opposite 
direction, which continues with great regularity for several months. 
This is classed under the general term of periodical winds ; and 
is called a monsoon^ from the Persian word monsum, which sig- 
nifies season. In the East Indies, there are two of these peri- 
odical winds, distinguished by the names of the northeast and the 
southwest monsoons; which may be said to change every six 
months, according to the sun's place in the ecliptic. In the same 
class are also included the sirocco, the simoon, land and sea- 
breezes, and long-shore winds. The sirocco is a periodical wind, 
which prevails in Italy about Easter ; and the simoon is a hot, 
suffocating wind, which prevails at certain seasons on the deserts 
of Arabia and Africa. Both of these winds are supposed to be 






1832.] WINDS. 391 

highly charged with carbonic acid gas, mixed with nome other 
noxious exhalations, unsuitable for respiration. 

Perennial winds are those which blow the whole year in one 
direction ; while those which are called variable^ are those which 
prevail in all parts of the world beyond the tropics. In the middle 
of the Atlantic Ocean, between the two great continents, Afirica 
and America (and a very few degrees east and west of that 
central meridian), the regular perennial winds constantly prevail, 
subject only to slight variations from the position of the sun. 

While the sun is passing over the equator, it is often difficult 
for vessels to cross the line ; and such is the influence of that 
luminary, that they are sometimes becalmed until his declination 
increases to seven or eight degrees. But when at fifteen degrees, 
particularly if near either of the tropics, they generally pass the 
line with a fresh breeze. At these times, the tradewind also 
varies. When the sun is in Cancer, the southeast perennial 
extends from four to six degrees across the line to the northward, 
and inclining more to the south than to the east ; and the contrary 
takes place when the sun is in Capricorn. This is a natural con- 
sequence. The lower current of air being rarefied by the reflected 
heat of the sun, ascends, and the equilibrium is restored by a 
larger body of dense air, which rushes forward in a right line, and 
with a strong current, to fill up the vacuum. 

The ancient Portuguese, not being acquainted with these cir- 
cumstances, thought to shorten the route of their East India 
voyages by hugging the continent of Africa ; an error which 
inevitably exposed them to calms and storms, and sometimes 
prolonged their voyages to an extent of two and three years. 
Long and dear-bought experience, however, has since taught 
navigators to hold nearly a middle course between the two conti- 
nents, in which they are favoured by constant tradewinds, and 
where they may allow some leeway in the southern tropics, a 
precaution necessary when the sun is in or near the tropic of 
Cancer ; for at that time the southeast wind inclines very much to 
the south. Both outward and homeward bound ships, engaged 
in the India trade, should therefore cross the equator in about 
eighteen or twenty degrees of west longitude ; by which means 
they will not fall in with the American continent, and, at the same 
time, will avoid the calms on the coast of Africa. 



392 TOTAGE OF THE POTOMAC. [Jime/ 

Ships sailing from the United States or Europe, between the 
months of February and May, after haying passed three or four 
degrees beyond the southern tropic, seldom find themselves more 
than 26* or 28* west ; which, considering the trending away of 
the American coast, may Still be considered about midway between 
the two continents. 

The wind, in these latitudes, in the month of May, will generally 
be found variable, as if equally attracted by land on each side ; 
but, as vessels advance farther south, in the months of May and 
June, say between 2S* and 35*, the wind hault round more from 
the westward, and is generally fresh from the northwest until the 
passage around the Cape of Good Hope can be effected. 

East of the Cape, in the winter, the southeast winds frequently 
blow fresh for several days successively ; but the southerly winds, 
in this quarter, blow with most violence when the sun is in the 
tropic of Capricorn. As the land on the southerly extremity of 
the African continent becomes warmed by the presence of the 
sun, the heavy body of cold air, from the antarctic seas, rushes 
north, with strong currents. 

Proceeding on a few degrees from the coast of Madagascar, the 
southeast tradewind blows at all seasons of the year as fax nearly 
as the Island of Java, where it comes in reach of the monsoons. 
Within the Mosambique channel, owing to the proximity of the 
two great bodies of land, the winds partake of the nature of men* 
soons. 

The seasons in Hindostan are distinguished by the nordieast 
and southwest monsoons ; but farther to the eastward and south- 
ward of the line, and in the Gulf of Bengal, the monsoons blow 
from different quarters. The northeast becomes in those parts 
the northwest, and the southwest becomes the southeast. These 
changes are owing to local circumstances ; the ppsition of large 
bodies of land and water. 

In speaking of the Indian Ocean, we mean that portion of the 
globe contained between the Gulf of Sinde and Bengal on the 
north, to the tropic of Capricorn, south; and lirom the east of 
Africa, to the west shores of New-Holland : from that parallel 
of latitude to the south pole, containing the ocean between Africa 
and New-Holland, as the great Southern Ocean. 

In the Gulf of Bengal, the wind may be said to blow six months 



1832.] WINDS. 393 

from the northeast, and six from the southwest ; though this is 
not true in every part of India. The northeast monsoon is said 
to begin, near the coast of Coromandel, early in October ; but, in 
fact, between the two monsoons (the expiration of the one and the 
coounencement of the other), the winds and currents are variable 
on this coast ; calms frequently prevail during the whole month of 
September, and even in October, with strong currents from the 
northeast to the southwest. At this season the sun is fast ap- 
proaching the equinox, which he crosses about the twenty-second 
of September. As his declination increases from seven to fifteen 
degrees south, which is from the tenth to the thirty-first October, 
his absence from the northern hemisphere begins to be felt ; and at 
the air becomes rarefied to the south, the warm air over the Indian 
Ocean ascends, particularly over the eastern side of the continent 
of Africa ; and the cold air from the north meeting the east trade- 
wind, they press -forward progressively, beginning where the rare- 
faction takes place, and continuing to an immense distance — thus 
forming the northeast monsoon. 

The Natal mountains, separating India from China, are always, 
in winter, covered with snow. From this frozen eminence a 
current of cold air will move with considerable velocity towards 
the tropic, on the approach of the sun, until the equilibrium is re- 
stored. At the latter end of January, the sun again begins to re- 
turn towards the north ; and as he approaches the equator, the 
wind in the Gulf of Bengal, near the land, takes a different di- 
rection. The wind on the coast of Coromandel no longer blows 
violently, or regularly, from the northeast, as in the commence- 
ment of the monsoon, and soon dies away to a regular land and 
Seabreeze. But these land and seabreezes do not take place un- 
til some time after the change of each monsoon ; for, at the com- 
mencement of each, the monsoon blows regularly, for a month or 
six weeks, immediately on the coast, with trifling variation from 
the northeast or iouthwest, according to the season: 

The wind blows constantly every year on the coast of Coro- 
mandel, to the latter end of January ; continues during February, 
and to the beginning of March, subject to very slight variations ; 
but, as the sun approaches towards the vernal equinox, the winds 
again become variable for some days, as they were about the au- 
tumnal equinox, until his declination is upwards of seven degrees 



894 YOTAOB OF THE POTOMAC. [June^ 

north, when the southwest monsoon sets in ; and often, on the 
south part of the coast, with great yiolence. 

This change, or reflux of air, appears to be put in motion by 
the same means as that which comes-from the opposite quarter — 
for as the sun's altitude increases liaily in the northern hemisphere, 
the extensive body of land in the northeast part of Asia becomes 
hotter than the ocean ; and, consequently, a degree of rarefaction 
will be produced over that portion of the continent, while, at the 
same season, an immense body of cold air will come from the In- 
dian Ocean and the continent of AfridIC in the southern hemi- 
sphere, to restore the equilibrium. 

The principal tracts of land of different temperatures on the 
two continents, bearing very nearly northeast and southwest from 
each other, will therefore become the two opposite extreme points 
of rarefaction and condensation ; and necessarily be the imme- 
diate causes of the northeast and southwest monsoons. 

The southwest monsoon blows with great strength on the Mal- 
abar coast, in April, May, June, and July ; but owing to a range 
of mountains, it is not felt with much violence on that of Coro- 
mandel, except far south. Both the northeast and southwest 
monsoons blow at first in firesh gales ; but neither of them in- 
creases to a hurricane. From natural causes, the one must die 
away before the other sets in. Hurricanes most frequently, 
indeed, it might be said always, occur near large bodies of land. 

In the Mosambique Channel, the monsoons correspond nearly 
with those on the Malabar coast ; if not in their commencement, 
at least in their duration. The southwest beginning in April, and 
continuing till November: the northeast then succeeding, and 
continuing until April. But the southwest monsoon in this 
channel is the fair season, and the wind varies sometimes towards 
the southeast and east-southeast on either coast, about the middle 
of November, when there are also generally regular land and 
seabreezes. 

The northeast monsoon begins early in November, near the 
Comoro Islands and the north end of Madagascar ; but seldom 
extends beyond San Augustine Bay, which is near the south 
tropic. Towards the Eastern Isles, the tradewind prevails over 
the Indian Ocean, from latitude eleven to twenty-eight south; 
while to the south and east of Java and Sumatra, northwest and 



1832.] WINDS. 395 

southeast monsoons prevail at the different seasons. The south- 
east monsoon commences in the month of April, and continues 
till November, when it changes to the northwest. But between 
the monsoons, the winds and currents are light and variable. 

Throughout the whole extent of the Eastern Isles, as far as 
Timor and Solor, the northwest monsoon brings foul weather, ac- 
companied with violent wind and rain. The stormy weather 
continues all January, and until the middle of February; but 
entirely ceases about the end of March. In April, the variable 
winds render the weather mild. In May, the southeast wind be- 
comes settled, and blows steadily during the months of June and 
July ; and the weaker continues fine until the end of September. 
In the month of October, the southeast monsoon dies away, and 
the wind again becomes variable until the northwest again sets in. 

Now, if we refer to the* map, we shall find New-Holland, an 
immense tract of land to the southeast of the Sunda Islands and 
the Moluccas, situated partly within and partly without the tropics. 
When, therefore, the sun is nearest his highest declination north, 
which of course is the winter of the southern hemisphere, and 
rarefies the air over the continent of Asia, the current of air in the 
southern hemisphere, independently of the tradewind, will move 
from the southeast, to restdre the equilibrium to the northwest. 
On the contrary, in the months of November, December, and 
January, while the sun is nearly vertical over a part of New-Hol- 
lai|d, the current of air through the Sunda Islands and the Mo- 
luccas will come from the northwest, to fill up the vacuum made 
by the rarefaction, and thus cause an alternate monsoon of south- 
east and northwest.* 

It should be borne in mind by navigators in the eastexn seas, 
that in the Gulf of Siam, on the coast of Cambodia, of Cochin 
China, and in the Gulf of Tonquin and China, the southwest 
monsoon commences on the coast in the month of April ; but out 
at sea in those parts, it does not change until a month later. It 
is for this reason, that on the north part of Borneo to the Islands 
of Paragoa and Luconia, it is seldom known to blow constantly 
before from the fifteenth to the twentieth of May. As the south- 
west monsoon continues only about six months, and commences 

* Clapper on the Momoonf . 



396 TOTAGB OF THB POTOMAC. [June, 

near the coast, it there ceases first in like manner, and is suc- 
ceeded by the northeast. 

Thus, it is evident, that the northeast and southwest monsoons 
reign constantly to the north of the line, to the eastward as well 
as in the Gulf of Bengal and Sinde ; while the northwest and 
southeast monsoons to the east are confined to the south of the 
line, within the reach of the influence of New-Holland. 

In the present improTed state of nayigation, when not only the 
mariners are more skilful, but vessels better constructed and found 
than formerly ; furnished with chronometers, and other well-con- 
structed instruments, the merchant may undertake his voyage to 
India at almost any season of the year. But if he consider the 
expense incurred by delay, and the wear and tear of his ship, and 
wishes to avoid all the difiSculties, inconveniences, and dangers 
of contrary winds, let him keep in mind, that by sailing firom the 
United States in the spring, and with good management, a voyage 
may be made in twelve weeks; and that by embarking either 
much later or earlier, he may not arrive in less than four or five 
months ! 

By skilful navigators, a return voyage firom India, in well-found 
ships, may be undertaken, in like manner, at nearly any season 
of the year ; but the most favourable time is firom the beginning 
of October to the first of March. 

. At the commencement of the northeast monsoon, favoured by 
Mctii winds and currents, vessels will soon get clear of the Gulf 
of Sinde or the Gulf of Bengal, very probably cross the line 
with a firesh breeze, and not be detained by calms, between the 
monsoons and the southeast trade. December will be a good 
month to double the Cape of Good Hope ; and prevailing winds 
will be firom the southeast, the fairest that can blow. To the west 
of the Cape, the wind will generally be light, but fair ; and in a 
few days, a vessel may gain the regular trade ; and crossing the 
equator in the latter part of January, the sun still far to the south- 
ward, the vessel is not likely to be detained by calms, provided 
she keeps about eighteen or twenty degrees west longitude firom 
Greenwich. 

Such are the remarkable efiects of some of those aerial cur- 
rents which distinguish the dififerent hemispheres of our globe. 
Who can contemplate the subject without giving utterance to 



1832.] WINDS. 397 

sentiments of wonder and Tcneration ? What mighty aigencies 
are the winds — " the many- voiced and viewless winds !" What 
powerful and universal agents they are on the surface of this re- 
volving sphere ! How they roam in the woods, compeUing the 
giants of the forest to tremble with fear, and humbly bow to their 
influence ! How mightily they rush down the hill-sides, and sweep 
over the plains, singing their wild and solemn notes of triumph as 
they pass ! How they career over the wide waters, exciting them 
to tumult, and driving on the waves till they fall thundering, but 
exhausted, on the shore ! 

" Nothing," says a modem vn-iter, " can illustrate so livingly 
our idea of a spirit, as a mighty wind, present in its amazing 
power and sublimity, yet seen only in its effects." It may be 
added, that the illustration holds good in case of a gentle as well 
as a mighty wind. What is more like the ministry of a gra- 
cious and soothing spirit, than the soft breathings of a gentle 
wind, bringing coolness to the fevered brow, and peace to the 
panting heart ! May it not be said that the winds, in their dif- 
ferent manifestations, suggest no faint or unworthy idea of the 
majesty and the mercy of the one Supreme Spirit ? 

How indispensable to the salubrity of our earthly dwelling- 
place, are the ever-moving and changing winds. They may be 
called the exercise of our atmosphere, by which it preserves its 
healthful principles, and shakes off the terrible evils of stagna- 
tion. The heat and cold of the several zones of the earth are 
efficiently tempered by means of the winds, which convey 
grateful coolness to heated climes, and no less grateful warmth 
to frozen ones. And how could those floating cisterns, the 
clouds, be borne from land to land, to replenish the fountains, and 
refresh and fertilize the grounds, were they not propelled and 
guided by the winds ? " He maketh the vnnds his messengers." 

Where would be the commerce between distant countries, 
without the winds ? Inconstant as they are said to be, yet how 
much of the business of the world depends upon their constancy ! 
What is the mariner without the winds ? And his goodly ship, 
what is it? It seems, indeed, to be "a thing of life," as it 
dashes aside the foam, and rides over the billows. But a calm 
soon convinces us that it is not ; and as it rolls heavily and un- 
easily on the waters, we cannot but feel how helpless and useless 




896 TOYAGK OF THS POTOMAC. [^^Jt 

a machine it is, without the winds. And the same power which 
propels the noble frigate, or with equal ease a nation's fleet, 
disdains not to waft the fisherman's boat to the scene of his pa- 
tient toil, and back to his humble dwelling ; and refuses not its 
aid to the savage, as he plies his light canoe among the ever-green 
islands of the tropic seas ! 

Thus widely connected with human business and interests, 
how deeply are the winds united with human affections and sym- 
pathies ! How sinks the heart of maid or wife as the wind sets 
in, which is to bear brother, lover, or husband, farther, and still 
farther from her presence ; and how beats the same true heart 
while the wind is blowing which is bearing brother, lover, or 
husband, nearer, and still nearer, to the fond hearts that sigh for 
his return ! The tender, affectionate, and anxious wife, whose 
husband is tossed on the far-distant billow, how swells and throbs 
her fond and gentle heart, when the hoarse singing of the midnight 
blast salutes her ear! Oh, bless and protect him, gracious 
Heaven, and in thine own good time restore him ! The virtuous 
affection which glows in her bosom, is but an emanation from 
Thee, the fountain of light and love. 

Every breeze that passes over the land is commissioned with 
a thousand kind and tender wishes to the sea ; and every loud 
blast is bimiened with anxious fears and earnest prayers. The 
storm that rises at night awakes many a parent to think, till the 
day dawns, of the son who is perhaps exposed to its fury, and to 
commend his keeping to One " whom the winds and seas obey." 
Are there not friends, in our own loved homes, thus thinking of us ? 
Blessings on their heads ! And may every zephyr that breathes, 
and every wind that blows, bear to them only health, good tidings, 
and peace ! 

Winged onward by the same great moving agent of which we 
have been speaking, the Potomac, after having passed through 
the Bashee Straits and gained the northeast trade, as before men- 
tioned, shaped her course across the vast Pacific. Nothing of 
interest or importance occurred during a rather unpleasant passage 
of fifty days, when she approached the Sandwich Islands, on the 
evening of the twenty-third July. " Land on the weather-bow," 
shouted a hoarse voice from the mast-head. It was the Island of 
Oahu. 



1 



.f- 



i; 



1832.] SANDWICH ISLANOa. 399 



CHAPTER XXII. 

The Sandwich Islands, their number and location — ^The Island of Oahn — Indolence 
of the natires — Presentment at Court — ^Town of Honoruru, markets, houses, fur- 
niture, food, dec. of the natiye»— Hospitable reception and entertainment — ^A , 
Jjuau, or barbecue — Arriral of the young king — ^Dinner on board the frigate—- 
Honours paid him — His attention to the Americans — Indian war-dance— A royal 
banquet — Battle-ground of Tamehameha — A supper at the palace — Dramatic per- 
formances — ^The commodore's official interview with the king — ^Taking leaye—- 
Sailing of the frigate— Reflections on her visit — Missionaries and foreign residents. 

That celebrated group of islands in the Pacific Ocean, which 
Cooke named in honour of his patron, the Earl of Sandwich, 
comprises ten in number, which are situated just south of the 
tropic of Cancer, in longitude from 154** 50' to 160* 24' east 
These islands are about five thousand miles east of Canton, in 
China ; and about two thousand eight hundred miles west of the 
American coast. 

The four principal islands of the group are called Hawaii, Mowee, 
Oahu, and Tauai ; which were once governed by separate and in- 
dependent kings ; but the whole are now under one monarch, a 
young prince called Kauikeaouliy who is grandson of the cele- 
brated Tamehameha, whose wisdom and prowess first subdued 
and united them under one government. The young king is not 
yet of age ; but acts under the advice and direction of his aunt, 
the queen regent, daughter of the great conqueror just mentioned. 
An amicable visit to this court (which is located at the Island of 
Oahu) for the purpose of improving our commercial relations, was 
comprised in the instructions of our goyemment to Commodore 
Downes, when he sailed in the firigite Potomac, on her present 
voyage around the world. 

The first sight of the Island of Oahu, which she made on the 
morning of the twenty-third of July, was far firom interesting. 
In the evening previous. Diamond Hill was seen at the north- 
eastern extremity of the roads, in which it was intended to anchor. 
At sundown, the wind hauled, and compelled the frigate to slaiid 






400 VOYAGE OF THE POTOMAC. [Jtlly 

off all that night ; but the next day, about sundown, she came to 
anchor in the Bay of Waititi. Preyious to coming to, howeyer, 
she was boarded by some of the American and English residents ; 
and, at sotne distance outside the harbour, a boat came along- 
side with a pilot. 

The Potomac finally anchored in twenty-one fathoms of water, 
about one mile from a reef of coral rocks that stretches across 
what is called the inner harbour, leaving but a very narrow pas- 
sage for vessels to enter and depart, and forming a complete 
natural breakwater to the anchorage within. Abreast of her was 
the village of Waititi, consisting of a few huts, and two or three 
cpcoanut groves. From this point of view, the island appeared 
handsomely distributed into valley and hill, extending far back, and 
rising into lofty mountains. The low land, near the water, was 
sprinkled with habitations ; but no great beauty was visible— no 
cultivation apparent. The mountains in the back ground relieved 
the eye by a show of verdure ; but in the vicinity of the town of 
Honoruru, and almost everywhere within view of the ship, a 
bleak and barren aspect characterized the picture. 

On the following day, the American and English consuls, being 
the only foreign public characters on the island, paid their respects 
to the commodore on board the frigate ; which also fired a salute 
in honour of the port and government. This customary mark of 
respect was promptly returned by the fort on shore. Several 
canoes came alongside, manned by natives ; some of them par^ 
tially clothed with sailors' frocks and trousers ; but mostly either 
in a state of nudity, or with nothing but a piece of tapa, or native 
cloth, thrown over their shoulders. 

Among the numerous visiters of this character, was the brother 
of one of our men, who had been taken to the United States 
some years ago, by the Peacock. The meeting of these two 
near and long-separated relatives, was singular indeed. As the 
visiter came up the ship's side, our man waited in the gangway 
to receive him. He was almost naked, having nothing but the 
ffiaro, or girdle, around his loins. They both stood for some 
time, looking each other fliU in the face, without uttering a word, 
but appearing to force upon themselves the recollections of each 
other's countenance. After fully satisfying themselves on this 
pointy our man eitended his hand, caught the other by the arm^ 






4832.] SANDWICH 18LA27D8. 401 

and led him below, in silence. Not a word was spoken by either 
— no greeting, no salutation passed — off they went together.' But 
the stranger soon afterward returned, dressed in some of his 
brother's clothes ; and with some under his arm, he -got into his 
boat and pulled ashore. They did not publicly manifest the least 
sign of afiiection for each other. Perhaps, indeed, the one was 
ashamed o£ the other's nakedness ; and the other felt his own in- 
feriority. They were afterward often seen together ; and the 
poor fellow's altered and improved habiliments, proclaimed the 
liberality of his more fortunate relative. 4) 

Through the hearty welcome of the foreign residents, almost 
every house was open to the officers, and horses always at their 
service. Equestrian recreations are much enjoyed by the for- 
eigners, and such natives as can afford to keep horses. There are 
a great many of these useful animals on the island, brought from 
the Spanish Main. Very few, if any, have been raised here. 
The natives ride hard, and their horses are not well kept. 

Notwithstanding Mr. Stewart's high encomium on the roads, we 
feel compelled to say that they are far from good ; and that the 
one leading to the village of Waititi, opposite the'firigate, is the 
only one that deserves the name. This is hard and smooth, about 
two miles in length, and affords quite a pleasaxit ride. The sea- 
breeze here renders the air fresh and agreeable, and the prospect 
is not without its charms. Far as the eye can reach, extends the 
ocean ; and there rides the gallant Potomac, heaving in the long 
swell, and almost within the tremendous surf that breaks and 
combs in immense rollers over the coral reef. Here and there a 
few cocoanut groves, on one side the little village of Waititi, 
and just back the higher peaks — and the scene is complete. 

Immediately on our arrival, an express was sent off for the 
young King Kauikeaouli, who had but a few days before left this 
island for that of Mowee, where he attends the missionary school. 
In the meantime, the commodore and a party of officers called 
upon the authorities of the place, the queen regent, the gov- 
ernor, and the remainder of the royal family and household. The 
conunodore was attended, on this occasion, by the American and 
English consuls, and many of the mercha^t^, all in full dress. 
They were received in due form, at tho |Ada6e df the Queen 
Regent -A^imzt/. As they walked in proc^sidb, it required the 

c c 



402 YOTAGS OF THE POTOMAC. [JuIy, 

Utmost vigilance of several police officers to keep off the crowd, 
such viras their curiosity to see the strangers. 

The presentation, virhich was very ceremonious, was performed 
by the American consul. The queen regent is the niece of the 
celebrated Karaimoku, or Billy Pitt, as he is generally called, 
and daughter to the great Tamehameha, the Napoleon .of the 
Sandwich Islands. Her husband is colonel of the troops. He 
is not by birth a chief; but being possessed of rather more intel- 
ligence than some others of his countrymen, was chosen as a 
companion to the late King Riho-Riho, on his visit to England ; 
and on the death of Kinau's husband (Governor Boki\ was 
chosen by her as partner for life ; owing, in all probability, to his 
having been a favourite pf Riho-Riho. He is not a man of much 
authority, having no voice in the council of the state ; but may, 
of course, do much in advising the queen regent in secret. The 
present queen regent has not long been so; her predecessor 
having died but a few weeks before the arrival of the Potomac. 

The most remarkable circumstance in the history of the royal 
family, is the immense size of the persons who compose it ; that 
of Kinau^ the queen regent, in particular. The weight of Kua- 
kinij or governor, or John Adams, as he chooses to be called, is now 
only three hundred and fifty, as he informed our officers ; although 
some months previously he weighed somewhat more. That of 
Kinau is two hundred and fifty ; and this, for a lady, is no small 
quantity ! 

The reader has doubtless already a correct idea of the town of 
Honoruru, from the description of the Rev. Mr. Stewart, a journal 
of whose residence in the Sandwich Islands is before the public. 
Honoruru is not regularly laid out, although many of the streets 
run at right angles. The houses, at some distance, look much 
like hay-mounds, the roofs angling almost down to the ground, 
and covered with a particular kind of thatch. The only differ- 
ence in the external appearance of these edifices consists in their 
size, many of them being extremely large. The royal palace 
and the churches are the largest. The dwellings of the foreign 
residents are built of stone or frame-work. The mission-house 
is at the extremity of the town ; it is large, and to all appearances 
the most comfortable on the island. It is certainly the most ca- 
pacious, and the best built, being of stone, and well whitewashed. 



/ 



1832.] SANDWICH ISULNDS. 403 

I 

I 

The interior of the houses vary much, of course, as to CQmfort, 
convenience, and elegance, in proportion to the respectability of 
the owners, and their means to support it. Those of the poorer 
class are extremely filthy; while those of the better sort are 
neat and airy. The floor, or rather the ground, is covered with 
mats, three or four deep. In one comer is a platform of boards, 
rising five to ten inches from the ground, and covered with six, 
eight, or ten mats, or even more, if the means of the possessor 
will allow it ; the upper ones being very fine, and handsomely 
made. This is the native bed. The apartment— for there is but 
one in each house — has generally a screen across, behind which 
is seen a bed of our own kind. They have few articles of furni- 
ture ; no chairs — ^no tables — for they are not wanted ; as the na- 
tives are accustomed to sit upon mats, after the fashion of the 
Turks. 

In their food they are extremely temperate. Fish they cut 
up in small pieces, and eat with |>oe, made of the taro plant ; 
which is one of the finest vegetables we ever ate. It is the arum 
esculentum of botanists, and is generally known by the names of 
the wild Indian and French turnip. It grows in the marshes, and 
is the principal food of these islanders. That preparation of it 
which is called poe, is made by boiling these roots twice, and then 
keeping it some time. It much resembles starch, and is eaten, 
or rather conveyed to the mouth, with the two first fingers of the 
right hand. These islanders do not eat much meat of any kind ; 
their principal diet being vegetables. There are but few domestic 
utensils of any kind in their dwellings, and such as they have are 
principally of native production. 

In dress they vary as much as in their style of ^housekeeping ; 
some wearing silk, others cotton, but most of them the native 
dress only. We think that the men are better off in this respect 
than the women ; for many of the former dress neatly in the Eu- 
ropean fashion ; although it is far from an uncommon ^ight to see 
them in groups, nearly naked; and the women with the t<q>a 
rolled round their forms as their only covering. 

They have no regular market-houses ; but near to the watering- 
place are some dirty huts, and a large open space, where meats, 
fish, and vegetables, are sold in the morning. This is, of course, 
considered and called the market ; and here may be bought fish, 

cc2 



404 VOYAGE OF THB POTOMAC. [July, 

flesh, fowls, fruits, and vegetables in abundance, and not dear by apy 
means. The vegetables comprise almost every species ; and the 
fruits are generally of the tropical kind. 

From the moment of the frigate's arrival, the hospitality of the 
foreign residents was kindly extended to the commodore and oBl" 
cers of the Potomac, and continued with the most untiring con- 
stancy. Every house was open to the strangers, and several of 
our officers resided on shore, at the hospitable mansions of their 
kind entertainers. Among other entertainments, they were in^ 
vited by the foreign residents to attend a /ucm, at the valley so 
highly spoken of by Mr. Stewart. This excursion is very far 
from equalling the idea which former descriptions would lead 
^ne to expect. The road in many places is covered with brush, 
and the valley is little more than a collection of small trees, 
rocks, and mud. This was oWing, however, in a great measure, 
to the heavy rains which had fallen shortly before the arrival of 
the Potomac. The idea of turnpikes, or roads, is really most 
ridiculous, and is calculated to mislead very much as to the 
extent and true nature of the advancement of this island in such 
improvements. And the splendid descriptions which have been 
given of the numerous handsome vehicles and carriages,aremoie 
in the poetical workings of the imagination than a drawing from 
reality. Few of these articles are on the islands ; and if there 
were, they could not be used : — for, excepting the ride of which 
we have already spoken, of about two miles or more, there 
is no part of the island, at least as far as our observation ex- 
tended, where they could be used : and as for roads, we again 
repeat, that there are no such things. The island, in this par- 
ticular, is as much in a state of nature, with the exceptions just 
mentioned, as when first discovered by Captain Cooke. 

A luau, the festival alluded to above, is somewhat analogous to 
what is called a barbecue, or a pic-nic. The word luau, of itself, 
is nothing more than the name of llie taro-tops boiled ; and any 
thing is said to be luaued when it is cooked with these greens. 
At these luaus, every thing is cooked in the native style. A large 
hole is dug in the ground, fire' is placed at the bottom, and 
covered with small pieces of wood ; and, when well ignited, 
stones are heaped upon it. When the whole becomes heated, the 
green leaf of the taro is placed upon them, and then the articles 



1882.] SANDWICH ISLANDS. 405 

to be cooked — such as pigs, turjieys, dogSy mutton, &c., with all 
kinds of vegetables, not forgetting the taro itself. These are 
then covered with taro leases once more, and heated stones, vnth 
leaves and grassland finally earth is thrown over the whole mass, 
so as not to allow any of the hestt or steam to escape. When thus 
cooked, the meats preserve all their juices, and the flavour is su- 
perior to any thing of the kind cooked in any other form. It takes 
considerable time for a meal to be prepared, as the process of 
cooking is slow. The ^aro-tops make a most pleasant addition 
to meats, and a very favourite dish, eaten as our spinage. 

In about a week after the Potomac's arrival at Oahu^ the young 
king, Kauikedouliy arrived from Mowee, a small island to wind- 
ward, with all his suite, in a small schooner belonging to his 
majesty. And two days afterward the commodore gave an enter- 
tainment to him and all the royal family, at which the residents 
of the place were present. At ten o'clock all the boats, from the 
launch down, were fitted up, and started for the shore, to bring off 
the company. The king and nobles were to come off in the com*- 
modore's boat ; the ladies of the mission in the next boat ; and 
the rest of the boats were filled as they arrived. The ship had 
been put in the most complete order for this occasion, and the 
white dresses of the sailors contrasted well with the full dress of 
the officers. 

As the young king, Kauikeaouliy came over the side, the yards 
were manned ; while the marines, who were drawn up on the op- 
posite side of .the deck, presented arms. As his majesty walked 
aft, a salute of twenty-one guns was fired ; thus paying him all 
the honours due to the President of the United States himself. At 
the discharge of the last gun, the frigate's band, on the quarter- 
deck, struck up the animating strain of " God save the king." 

The King Kauikeaouli, or Tamehameha III., is about twenty 
years of age, of middling size, and well made. His colour is 
very dark, but not black ; his hair is thick and black ; his form 
good ; but hiBfoot bespeaks him no European. His features are 
large, but not bad, and his countenance is rather agreeable. He 
wore a full dress of the Windsor imiform, with two gold epaulets ; 
a star on his left breast, cocked hat, and sword. He did not ap- 
pear abashed by the parade made for him ; but there was no super- 
abundance of dignity in his appearance or bearing, though bii 



406 VOYAGE OF THE POTOMAC. [AugaSt, 

manners were tolerably easy and graceful. The colonel was 
also attired in a very neat, full-dress uniform, and several others 
were equally well apparelled for the occasion. Soon after the 
king came the queen regent, and other fair ones of the royal 
household. 

As the sea is heavy where our ship had to lie, our usual ac- 
commodation-ladder was not rigged, and we were compelled to 
hoist our royal visiters on board by means of a " whip and chair," 
suspended from the mainyard. The chair being lowered into the 
boat, the lady was placed in it ; and, at the sound of the boat- 
swain^s pipe, she soon swung between heaven and the billows, 
hoisted up by about fifty of our trusty lads in white jackets, and 
landed safely on deck. 

This feat being performed with characteristic address, and each 
visiter disposed of in the same manner, the ladies were led to the 
cabin by the officers. They were all dressed in black silk frocks 
and bonnets ; not peculiarly elegant, but neat and lady-like. The 
daughter of Kuakini, or Governor Adams, being younger, was 
more gaudily attired in blue satin and a handsome gauze bonnet. 
These ladies were all conspicuous for their size, with the excep- 
tion of the one last mentioned, and were proportionably beautiful, 
as beauty goes here altogether by dimensions. 

Another boat brought off the king's suite. These were gen- 
erally dressed in citizen's coats of blue, with gilt buttons, on 
which was stamped TameJiameha III. They were all fine look- 
ing men, well made, and well proportioned as to size. His ma- 
jesty's armour-bearer was also a sort of chief, and wore a native 
helmet of the yellow feathers of a rare bird, together with a large 
cloak over his shoulders of the same kind. These were two of 
the most beautiful native ornaments we ever saw, and are pecu- 
liarly valuable on account of there being but few of them now on 
the islands among the chiefs. Of these feathers are also made 
ornaments for the necks and heads of females. Some of them 
are partly green, red, and black ; but these colours are taken from 
other birds ; the yellow alone being peculiarly rare, and so highly 
appreciated. Two or three body-servants carried the feather or- 
naments, spoken of by Mr. Stewart as being the grand insignia 
of royalty among the islands. It consists of the long and bright 
feathers of the chicken-cock. The handles are neatly wrought 



1632.] SANDWICH ISLANDS. 407 

of the white and black whalebone, combined alternately ; and for 
a native piece of work, is unusually neat. 

The missionaries soon after arrived, and the party being col- 
lected, they were conducted to every part of the vessel. The 
king was observant, as were also many of the chiefs, some of 
whom spoke very good English, and most of them sufficiently to 
make themselves understood. These courtly personages were, 
of course, treated with all the respect that could be desired by 
them ; but they did not look for any unusual degree, and com- 
ported themselves in a very friendly and agreeable manner. 

After having been shown every part of the ship, which is by 
far the largest that had ever appeared in these waters, they sat 
down to a very splendid dinner-table, spread on the gundeck. A 
blessing was invoked on the repast by Mr. Bingham, the principal 
of the missionary establishment among these islands. In seating 
them at table, the great difficulty ^as to ascertain the ranks of the 
different chiefs forming the king's suite. It seems that this dis- 
tinction of rank and claims of precedence are carefully respected, 
not so much by the individuals themselves as by their sovereign. 
But no sooner was this important matter amicably arranged, and 
a blessing invoked, than a brisk operation commenced with the 
knives and forks, in which every one appeared to contend for 
precedence. 

At the first suitable cessation of this amicable contention, the 
commodore drank the king's health and that of the ladies. After 
this, every one eagerly aspired to the same honour, of drinking 
the health of his royal highness ; and the cry of " King, a glass 
of wine with you, if you please;," resoimding from all quarters, 
was really amusing. This is the manner in which he is always 
addressed. 

While the party were yet at dinner, a large ship, commanded 
by an English half-pay lieutenant, came under the Potomac's 
stern, and letting fly his " topgallant-halliards," fired a salute of 
thirteen guns in a very handsome style, which was of course re- 
turned by the frigate. This was an act of courtesy so handsomely 
performed, that it drew every one from the table. The Engtirii 
ship then filled away, and stood to sea. 

Upon the whole, the day was one of great interest, novelty, 
merriment, and excitement. The missionaries, of course, par-. 



PA 



40& VOYAGE OF THE POTOMAC. [AugUSt^ 

took but sparingly of the two last ; but appeared not displeased 
to witness the enjoyment of others ; although the motion of the 
vessel must have been to them a little unpleasant. They retired, 
as usual, at an early hour. Before they left the table, however, 
our band performed several pieces of sacred music ; but after they 
had retired, airs of a more lively character, and perhaps better 
adapted to the hilarity of the occasion, were tastefully executed. 

The company were landed in the same style which distinguished 
their reception ; the marines on deck, and the men on the yards, 
still paying compliment to his majesty^s departure ! Certainly, a 
few years ago, the King of the Sandwich Islands little thought of 
ever being thus honoured by a power so peculiarly situated as 
ours ; and whose very political existence was not thought of ! It 
is certainly a singular and rare occurrence, to see a power (or the 
agent of a power) just risen into political importance in the great 
world of nations, stretching out the helping hand, and, by its 
countenance, bringing forward a little nation of islands ; adding 
importance to its government, even in their ovm eyes, by the 
complimentary ceremonies paid to them. It seems like the 
strong arm of vigorous youth leading the weak and tottering child. 

From the time of the king's arrival at Honoruru to the last 
moment of the frigate's stay at the islands, his majesty was almost 
constantly on board, and associated much with the officers. He 
was alternately in every part of the ship, from one end to the 
other ; now forward, smoking ; then in the ward-room ; next in 
the cabin, with the conunodore ; conversing on the affairs of his 
island, and receiving much good advice to guide him in the ad- 
ministration of it ; ever asking qi^estions, and always apparently 
interested. On these occasions he was always dressed en citoyen. 
Our tailors made one or two coats for him ; and his appearance 
was always very genteel. 

On one occasion, about twenty Northwest Indians, belonging to 
one of the vessels, came on board the frigate by the conmiodore's 
invitation ; they were dressed in their native costume, with their 
blankets, bows and arrows, &c., and performed one of their na- 
tional war-dances. Their gesticulations were often wild, and the 
expression of their countenance ultra savage^ while their howls 
and shrieks were astounding and piercing in the extreme. The 
king gazed upon their performances with an interest bordering on 






1832.] SANDWICH ISLANDS. 409 

wonder, and was evidently a good deal excited. We were not a 
little amused at the interest his majesty evidently took in all their 
different turns and motions, as he seemed half inclined to join 
them. We were actually afraid, at one time, that the Indian in 
his majesty would preponderate, and that he would break out in 
earnest. Whether, however, he really restrained himself, or that 
it was only the excitement of the scene, he soon got over it. 

This war-dance was certainly one of the best executed per- 
formances of the kind we remember ever to have witnessed. 
When their glaring eyeballs were fixed upon us, the bow drawn, 
and the arrow pointed at our bosom — ^with that regular, monoto- 
nous, forward Indian motion — we could not resist the impulse to 
move out of the way, and continually changed our position. 
These Indians were firom the northwest coast, to which our ships 
resort for furs ; and were taken on board for the purpose of shoot- 
ing the sea-otter and fur-seal. They are often thus engaged for 
a certain specified time, and the commodore extended this act 
of courtesy towards them, thinking it might be of service to 
our vessels trading on that coast, to let them know that such 
formidable ships as the Potomac were near at hand, to punish 
any injury or aggression which our enterprising navigators might 
receive in that quarter. They appeared much struck with the 
immense effect of our great gims ; and seemed impressed with a 
degree of astonishment on contemplating the power of such a 
ship. The effect was doubtless a good one, and may produce 
good results. 

Three days after this dinner on board the frigate, the king 
invited the commodore and his officers to a liuiUj to be given in 
the valley of the Pari, near the precipice of Kolau. This was 
one of the most delightful excursions we remember ever to have 
enjoyed, and lament our want of powers to give an adequate 
description of it. The distance was about nine miles, and directly 
in the interior, or rather across the eastern extremity of the island. 

At about ten, the commodore and his party went on shore, and 
found that the king had ordered all his horses, of which he has 
a great number, to be in readiness for those who had not otherwise 
provided themselves. Each one having selected his animal, the 
whole mustered at the house of the American consul, Mr. Jones, 
all in high spirits and well moimted. Here they were SQon joined 



410 VOYAGE OF THE POTOMAC. [AugUSt, 

by the king, when all put spurs to their steeds, and away they 
went Jit a good hand-gallop through the town of Hononini. 
Winding round the base of Fort Hill, just opposite the frigate, 
the party struck off into a beaten track, in the rear of the town, 
which Mr. Stewart calls the turnpike. Here they separated, and 
began scattering, each one choosing his companion ; some riding 
faift) and others leisurely along. After crossing the plain back of 
the town, they entered into a somewhat cultivated region. Here 
a stream running from the mountains supplied the taro-patches 
with water; and these formed a handsome scene, rising one 
above another in the different stages of advancement, from the 
light yellow to the dark green tops, forming a picture like the 
variegated beds of a rich garden plantation. On the land around, 
running vines, and many valuable vegetables, were growing ; and 
the country on all sides looked delightfully green. 

In this way our joyous party moved along ; now jumping a 
small stream, or picking their way through the narrow path, and 
anon galloping over the grass, where the evenness of the ground 
would permit. They soon reached the battle-ground, as described 
by Mr. Stewart ; where, some forty years before, Tamehameha, 
the grandfather of the present king, overcame the last of his 
enemies. The scene was truly grand, beautiful, and, with all its 
historical associations, intensely sublime. For beauty, it is inimi- 
table ; the day was delightful ; and the Seabreeze, fresh and 
pleasant. On one side, the lofty mountains, crowned to the very 
summit with the richest and most beautiful green ; here and there 
a group of horsemen ; the sea far in the distance, and a beauti- 
ful verdant plain on the other side ; while a short distance ahead 
a small waterfall leaped from the mountain's summit, in thin and 
graceful curves to the bottom of the valley. 

Such was the scene — such is the spot — where the great Sand- 
vnch king fought his last and decisive battle — triumphing over the 
last of his implacable foes ! Stewart himself, with all his talent 
for description, could not do more than justice to such a scene ! 
Again our party started off; and now the path was often choked 
up by bushes and brushwood. Many parts of it had the day be- 
fore been cleared for the present occasion. 

At length we arrived at the spot consecrated to the festive rites 
of the contemplated banquet. It was a handsome green, sur- 



1832.] SANDWICH ISLANDS. 411 

rounded by thick groves, at the foot #f two high peaks. Up to 
these we rode, through a narrow ravine. On reaching the sum- 
mit, one of the most sublime prospects that can be imagined 
presented itself. The mountains here appear to break olBf abruptly, 
and you stand at the very extremity,* white, nearly a thousand 
feet perpendicularly below, spreads out a splendid plain of many 
miles in circumference. There heaves the ocean, in all its sub- 
limity ; and far, far beyond, rises the light blue form of some 
beautiful sea-girt island. 

From this immense height, the panic-struck enemies of the 
victorious Tamehameha were compelled to leap, in order to escape 
the enraged victors, and perished in their fall, by being dashed to 
pieces on the rocks below ! It was an awful reflection — not one 
escaped ! Although the side is almost perpendicular to appear- 
ance, the natives from below sometimes ascend the moimtain. 
The valley below is that of the Pari. 

After having gazed upon and enjoyed this glorious prospect, 
and the freshness of a delightful Seabreeze, our delighted party 
repaired to the dining spot. On the beautiful greensward were 
erected four or five temporary huts, constructed of the boughs of 
trees, recently cut, and thatched with grass. Under one of con- 
siderable length was the table already spread ; others were occu- 
pied by several ladies of the royal family, to whom each paid his 
respects on dismounting, and was received by them, seated on 
the grass, and treated with wreaths of evergreens and flowers. 
Here and there lay scattered, over the rich green, the king and the 
different chiefs and individuals of the party, refreshing themselves 
after their ride. The scene was a most animated qne of rural 
luxury, and one that will not be soon forgotten. 

The whole party soon set down to a most abimdantly-fumished 
table, loaded with savoury viands, cooked after the native fashion — 
or luaued. At one end was a dog ; which, in order to induce us 

* The batUe that decided the fate of Oahu, in the conquests of Tamehameha, and 
was crowned by victory, in which he became sole monarch of the group, was fought in 
the valley leading from Honorum to this pass. The King of OoAu, afcer a despe- 
rate conflict, fell bravely at the head of his army ; upon which a complete route en- 
sued. One party, of more than three hundred warriors, fled towards this precipice, 
and were pursued so closely, and with such relentless purpose, as to be phinged, 
without an exception, fiom the tremendous offset to the depths below ! 



4U yo|r40S of thx potomac. [August, 

to eat, had the head and feA of a pig sewed on, instead of its own. 
But without this stratagem, all would have eaten of it, as we had 
heard so much said about this 'animal. It was difficult to tell it 
from pig, so much did the taste resemble the flavour of that ani- 
mal. These dogs are a peculiar kind, and are fed for the pur- 
pose on nothing but vegetables ; and though not numerous, are 
always eaten on great occasions of Uiis kind. 

The dinner was served up in a very handsome style; but 
nothing of rich silver covers was to be seen. The table-furni- 
ture was all substantial) and in good keeping. 

After dinner, the well-satisfied guests rambled about to enjoy 
the prospect — then mounted their horses, and olBf again the whole 
company started for Honoruru. * Some of them, on their way 
Imck, took a ride up Fort Hill, from which a most splendid pros- 
pect was enjoyed. Over the level plain at the foot of the hill, the 
town lay scattered, into which the whole cavalcade were seen gal- 
loping ; while the taro-beds, distant mountains, the sea, and the 
sbijqNng in the harbour, presented a most beautiful and variega- I 

ted picture. We have seldom spent a day more peculiarly inter- ' 

esting, from the novelty of the incidents and scenery. 

On Fort Hill are a few old guns mounted, from which it de- 
rives its name. It is some seven or eight hundred feet high, and 
the ascent regular. The top is somewhat of a plain, gently sink- 
ing towards the centre, and is supposed to have been the crater 
of the volcano while the island was forming. It certainly has 
somewhat the appearance. There is but a slight coat of verdure 
or grass on the plain, and the sides are hard, barren, and sandy. 
The few guns before mentioned, command the whole bay and 
town ; but can be of no use, and must have cost some considera- 
ble labour to raise them to their present situation. 

Some evenings after our trip to the Pari, we were invited to 
attend a supper at the king's palace. We all attended in full 
dress. Our band was also sent on shore. On our arrival, we 
found the missionary ladies seated among the ladies of the royal 
family, and we paid our respects individually to them all. After 
this we had time to look around us. The palace was certainly 
the finest native building we had seen ; and though its interior 
was not void of elegance, we saw no " glass folding-doors." The 
frame, or wicker-work lining of the inner house, was very neat. 



1832.] SANDWICH I8IJIND8. 419 

The floor was covered with mats, of the finest texture, and beau- 
tifully figured, brought firom some neighbouring island, and sent 
as taxes. The supper-table was also covered with a mat, and 
extended firom one end of the room to the other. The usual cur-i 
tain ran across the apartment, and enclosed the bed, forming a 
sitting-room. The walls were lined with paintings of the differ- 
ent soldiers and officers of the Prussian army, sent by the King 
of Prussia. The portraits of the king, Riha-Riho^ of the former 
queen, and also of George IV., were set in rich gilt firames, giving 
a handsome finish to the apartment. The Declaration of Inde- 
pendence, at the head of the room, was a glorious sight to look 
upon. 

In due time, we sat down to a sumptuous repast of cold meats* 
No wine, however, was presented; for which deficiency the king 
took occasion to apologize in a whisper, saying that '^ the mis- 
sionaries did not like it." We mention this anecdote, to give 
some idea of tlie influence which these pious labourers hold over 
the king and government ; and which, wisely exercised, may be 
greatly for their good. Some of the ladies of the mission are 
young and interesting, and all of them are very agreeable. They 
retired early, after our band had played several pieces of sacred 
music; and no sooner were they gone, than the king moved 
among us with all the gayety of youth, entirely throwing off the 
restraints imposed upon him by the presence of the missionaries. 
After looking around the palace and grounds, we retired much 
pleased, indeed, highly gratified with the entertainment. 

Some nights after this, our corps dramatiquey with our band,, 
made a display at the Theatre Royal Honoruru. The king wa» 
desirous of seeing them perform, and offered his palace for the 
occasion. The scenery was all taken on shore, and the palace 
fitted up for the occasion. At the usual hour for such enter- 
tainments, the performance commenced. Every thing went on 
remarkably well ; the pieces having been rehearsed on board ship^ 
and the actors did their utmost to gratify the audience. The 
king and suite formed the most interesting portion of the audi- 
ence, and his majesty seemed highly delighted at the efforts of the 
corpsy firequently indulging in the most boisterous and immoderate 
fits of laughter. 



414 VOYAOE OF THE POTOMAC [AogllSt, 

The next day, an official interview took place between the 
reigning powers of Oahu and Commodore Downes ; in which the 
claims of some of our merchants at the island were introduced 
and adjusted. The commodore embraced this opportunity to give 
the king much good advice as to his behaviour towards American 
residents on the island, and many hints as to his government. Mr. 
Bingham was there as interpreter. Every thing appeared very sat- 
isfactory on the part of the king and queen regent. The conmio- 
dore was a great favourite with the king, who took every occasion to 
show his feeUng. Indeed, he appeared, when we talked of going, 
to evince the greatest regret, and we have no reason to doubt his 
sincerity. The evening before we sailed, he sent on board a 
large number of fine hogs, as a present to the officers and crew. 
Thus, after spending a longer time than we had remained at any 
place during the cruise, and enjoying the hospitality of the natives 
and foreign residents of Oahu, on the 16th of August we weighed 
our anchor, and got imder way. The king, and many of his ;zo- 
bles^ with the American merchants, came off to see us depart. 
The breeze was firesh and pleasant ; and, after perfonning the 
evolution of tacking' once or twice, and astonishing his majesty 
with the rapidity of our movements, and the regularity of every 
thing, where all appeared " confusion worse confounded," we 
hove to — took leave of our friends — who, after giving us three 
cheers from their little vessel, which we returned, stood for the 
harbour; while we, crowding sail on sail, hurried the Potomac 
from the island and its hospitable inhabitants. 

That the island is growing poorer, is indisputably the case ; 
and considering the amount of labour employed, it is surprising 
the quantity produced. Tliis goes far to prove the natural capa- 
cities and resources of the island ; and yet want must be felt, un- 
less more attention be paid to agricultural pursuits. The taro- 
patches require little labour; .but other articles require much. 
There is no species of manufacture on the island, save the tappa 
cloths. The most beautiful mats are made on other islands, and 
are brought hither, generally, as taxes to the government. 

The government is in the hands of the queen regent. Kauike- 
aouli is yet too young, being a minor ; but still he begins to take 
some hand in state affairs ; official documents are signed by him, 



1832.] SANDWICH ISLANDS. 415 

and all proclamations are issued in his name. Of course, the 
queen regent has her sway over him, and always will. But it is 
to be hoped that he will rule with more wisdom, in some things, 
when he assumes the affairs of government altogether. 

The government is not, by any means, complicated in its forms ; 
every thing is plain and consistent. Taxes are paid in money, mats, 
articles of food, or sandal-wood. The public treasury is very low. 
The king pays for what he obtains from merchants in mats, &;c., 
which are sold on the coast of Chili and Peru. The revenue amounts 
to something considerable in port charges^ when the whalers 
come in after their cruise. Some months, sixty and seventy ves- 
sels are at anchor at the same time. But the government ac- 
knowledges a very heavy debt to our merchants, which it is de- 
sirous of paying. Some months before thp arrival of the Potomac, 
Governor Boki, with many other chiefs, and about eighty natives, 
in the brig Tamehameha, sailed for an island where it was said 
much sandal-wood was to be had. They never returned, nor 
have they been heard of; and it has been supposc^ii that they blew 
up the vessel, as there was a considerable quantity of powder on 
board, and the natives smoke at all times. By some carelessness 
of this kind it must have happened. Thus they lost the vessel, 
for which they have not yet paid, and the means of obtainiiig 
wherewith to pay most of their debts. 

The king owns one or two small vessels, but no men-of-war. 
There is little export among the islands, save the sandal-wood, and 
that is becoming very scarce, and the price much reduced in the 
Canton market. Many of the natives go on board whalers, and 
other vessels stopping at the island : so that the Sandwich Islands 
will have many sailors, in course of time ; and they are said to 
make remarkably good ones, and active ones too, though they 
have not that appearance. But they have no vessels of their own 
to go in, and but one or two are owned by merchants at the island- 

These islands must always be places of interest in the Pacific 
Ocean, lying, as they do, between the tracks of vessels bound to 
China and the East Indies, from the coast of California, and the 
whole of South America. They are also important as places of 
refreshment for whalers, after their long and hazardous cruise to 
capture the leviathan of the ocean. All these circumstances tend 
to render the Sandwich Islands of peculiar interest to the naviga- 



416 YOTAGE OF THE POTOMAC. [AugUSt, 

tor of the Pacific* What would the laborious whaleman do, 
after toiling five or six long months upon the boisterous Japan 
Sea, in his daring pursuit, fatigued, and out of -fresh provisions, 
had he to toil his way to the coast of South America for refresh- 
ments and necessaries ? At the Sandwich Islands they muster 
in numbers, and find wherewith to refit them once more for the 
dangers of their hazardous profession. Once more they take the 
sea, revived and refreshed ; and in a few days find themselves 
again on the ground, where the persecuted numBlers of Hie deep, 
driven from clime to clime by these p^Qpeverin^ adventurers, have 
now taken up their abode. Hjsre, too, the northwest trader, after 
toiling and chasing the otter and seal on the bleak coast of Amer- 
ica, finds a pleasant retreat for the winter months, near at hand; 
and from whence, in a short time, they may return to tlieir sport. 
Vessellt boimd across the Pacific, now a track so common, can 
often find tha means to repair the disasters of the seas, without 
being compelled to put back, perhaps thousands of miles, or pros- 
ecute a voyage ^rendered dangerous by unforeseen events. Du- 
mg a war, what interest would not these islaqds hold out (o us, 
at sources of reficesfanient for our men-of-war, while protecting 
our conunerce, whaling, and other interests in these seas ? 

.But, independent of all these general views, which must of 
course be strong in the eyes of every one, and, in a national point 
of view, paramount, to induce a cultivation of a proper understand- 
ing with the natives ; we say, independent of all these grand ob- 

* A writer in a late number of the London Metropolitan Magazine, proposes the 
taking possession of these fertile islands by the British government. He speaks 
IK>t on the 8ubje(;t of right, but merely of expediency. We are willing to concede 
taour ancestors all praise for their masterly enterprise and courage in the discovery 
and settlement of new lands. But the British standard is no longer the undisputed 
master of the seas ; other nations have some claims, and some power too, on the 
great highway of nations. To sum up the matter, haw any nation the right to lay 
violent hands on that which docs not belong to them ! The writer, in his fruitful 
imagination, has already fortified Honoruru, a# he thinks it would be a good place 
ftom which to watch ours and the Russian tra^ to China, Mexico, and the north- 
west coast of America, in sandal-wood, opium, turtle, furs, &c. England will find 
enough to do to take care of her interests in India, New-Holland, Canada, <tc., 
without stopping to worry hrr mind nbout such trifling matters as planting new colo- 
nies in the Pacific. I^mvc to the peaceful labours of our missionaries the introduc- 
tion of civilization and Christianity, and in time they may grow up to be little, but 
independent communities, of their own election 






t 



1838.] SANDWICH ISLANDS. 417 

jects, they present an interesting appearance, as a body of island- 
ers springing into existence. To watch the changes in their prog- 
ress — to see how, step by step, they advance, or why they are 
retarded — to watch the heathen mind opening into civilized im- 
provement, will always be a matter of deep interest to every phil- 
anthropic mind. 

We have already said that we thought the improvement and ad- 
vancemeot of tli^se i^anders had been considerably exaggerated ; 
and we still feci c^nymcW that no just or true idea of the state 
of these people can be oTfttined from th^ works generally referred 
to as authority on the subject. 

The advancement in inculcating upon fhase people the genuine 
doctrines of Christianity, has been by far too highly coloured, ex- 
cept in a very few instances. The old queen, before he| death, 
and'the present queen regent, have been considered among the 
converts. The number of converts we dp not know, and pre- 
sume that nobody else does. Their ancient religion, wtettevei it 
was, has been abolished ; and we believe*Aat a Mufire^f wooden 
idols was made before a missionary evef set' foot on the island ! 
Christianity is the religion now established among them, in which 
all believe, so far as they have any ideas of religion at all. 

Some time before the arrival of the Potomac, a few Spanish 
missionaries of the Catholic faith came from the coast of Cali- 
fornia, with the view of establishing a' school and church for the 
benefit of the heathen islanders. . They were menof learning, and 
agreeable manners and conversation ; and, in all their acts and be- 
haviour, appeared sincerely pious. They brought with ihem funds 
enough to raise suitable houses, gjrit soon learned the language so 
as to converse with the natives. ^^ 

Pleased with their manners and instructions, the natives came 
m numbers to be taught by them ; so that the school and place 
of worship began to be crowded. They folloteed the course of 
instruction, in some degree, laid down by the American mission- 
aries ; and never attempted to draw the natives to theiy elves, ex- 
cept by amiable and kind deportment. Indeed, they were exem- 
plary in all their actions. But their success was too great, and 
they were ordered to discontinue their worship. At first they re- 
fused, and informed the authorities that theirs was also the worship 
of the same God with the American missionaries, — ^the forms 

Dd • 



418 TOTAOB OP THX POTOMAC. [JlUie, 

alone were different But all this was of no arail. The natives 
were forced from their houses of worship by native soldiers, ordered 
by authority ! 

Things became serious. The natives wished still to attend the 
new-comers; but this was prohibited. The missionaries were 
ordered to depart ; and finally were compelled, with threats of 
personal violence, to leave their labours and the island, and go on 
board a little rickety vessel, belonging to one of the phiefs, in 
which they were conveyed to the coastroPCalitbfnia, and there 
inhumanly set on shore, in a barren «pot, and distant from any 
settlement ! 

Is this, then, the frnit of Christianity, in a place where we had 
reason to believe so much good had been done by the mild in- 
fluence of missionary labours — where religion, and freedom, and 
knowledge had taken such deep root? where the gospel trumpet 
bad been sounded, and the heathen had listened to its joyful notes ? 

This ts not alL Tke California missionaries were not only 
forcibly cftnpqfkd to forego all their benevolent intenticn^s and 
labours of love, but, at the time of the Potomac's arrival at 
Oahu, some forty natives, men, women, and children, were con- 
fined at hard labour, on a coral wall which was then erecting, 
of several miles in extent, in the country, and were not allowed 
to visit the town. One woman was seen, with an infant on her 
back, bearing large stones in her arms for building this wall ! 
And this punishment was inflicted because they were Catholics, 
and would not change their religion for that of the missionaries of 
the island ! " We saw a man casting out devils in thy name, and 
we forbade him, because he fd^weth not us T 

At the conference previouM|^alluded to between Commodore 
Downes and the authorities, this subject was introduced ; when 
the conunodore, in a mild, though decisive tone, explained to the 
chiefs and queen regent, that in England, in the United Stales, 
and other countries, persons were not punished for their religious 
opinions ;^and that Catholic countries might not view with indif- 
ference such cruel treatment of Catholics ; that a bitter spirit of 
persecution was not sanctioned in any enlightened country, and 
ought at once to be abolished. 

There were few present at this interesting conference who will 
soon forget the apparent reluctance with which Mr. Bingham, 



I 






183S.] 8ANDWICH ISLANDS. 419 

head of the missioD, interpreted this liberal and truly Christian 
advice ; and that, in apparent justification of the authorities, he 
instanced Spain as a country that would not admit of toleration * 
The commodore's remarks seemed to break, like new light, upon 
the minds of the chiefs ; and the release of the unhappy sufferers 
for " conscience' sake," followed immediately afterward. 

The missionaries say they had no hand in this matter. Be it 
so. Then from wh^ did the natives derive the knowledge 
that to persecute, to punish, and to exconununicate, even from 
the island, such as did not believe exactly as the missionaries 
did, formed a part of their Christian duty ? Has the Christian 
religion, whose very essence is love and charity, been so taught 
as to implant into the minds of these natives a spirit of cruelty 
and intolerance, foreign to their natures on every other subject ? 

In the sincerity of our heart, we hope not. The missionaries 
say they took no part in this matter. When sectarian zeal has 
once taken full possession of the human heart, men scarcely know 
what they do ; and one record at least has been made and left, 
which, if it do not show interference, by raising unworthy preju- 
dices against the Catholics, is unfortunate in having the sem- 
blance of such a motive. 

We allude to the celebrated missionary hymn of Bishop Heber. 
The intelligence possessed by this great and good man, his high 
standing as an exemplary Christian, had no doubt been often 
explained to the most intelligent of the natives ; and any thing 
coming from his pen would be looked upon as deserving great 
respect, and receive from them more than ordinary attention. The 
hymn runs thus : — 




1. " From Greenland's icy moontainB, 

From India's coral strand, 
Where Afric's sunny fountains 

Roll down their golden sands ; 
From many an ancient river, 

From many a palmy plain. 
They call us to deliver 

Their land from error's chain. 

3. " What though the spicy breezes, 
Blow soft o'er Ceylon's isle. 
Though every prosjtect pUases, 
And only man it tiU ; 

Dd2 



' 1, 



420 TOYAOB OF THE POTOMAC. [AugOSt, 

In ««tn vfiik lavish Hndneu, 

The giftt of God are ttrewn^ 
The heatheTiy in hit bUndnut, 

Bow* down to wood and Mtone. 

3. " Shall we, whose souls are lighted 

With wisdom from on high, 
Shall we, to men benighted, 

The lanqp of life deny 1 
Salvation ! oh, salvation! 

The joyful sound proclaim ; 
Till each remotest nation. 

Has learned Messiah's name.*' 

The missionaries at Oahu translated this hymn for the benefit 
of the heathen, and published it in a tract, containing other 
religious matters, in the following words of the Hawaiian 
tongue : — 

" HIMENI MISIONARI. 
" No ka hooulu ana i ka oUlo a he Akua % na aina a fou loo.* 

1. " Aloha ko na mauna, 

I paa mau i ka hau, 
A me ko Aitiopa, 
Ko Inia me Makao, 
Na muliwai kahiko, 
Na moku, na papa ; 
Kii mai ko laila pio, 
I ola no lakou. 

2. '^ Auwe na lahoiaina 

na akua e ! 

Ka make o na aina 

1 kulou i ke kii ; 
Ko Af«||pouU ! 
Ko AsHaupo ! 
Ko Mahomeda pule ! 
Ko Roma hewa hou ! 

3. " Pehea la ke hoole 

Kakou i aoia mai 
I kanaka pouli, 
la lama e ola*i t 
Ke ola ! O ke ola ' 
Hoolaha ae kakou, 
I lohe i ka Mosia, 
A e huli ko ke ao.** 

* U« hoolcaialLu ia Inhova. mahope iho o ka ke Alii olelo ma M'aimea a me 
Kailna, Hawaii 



1832.] 8ANDWICH ISLANDS. 421 

This hymn, faithfully and correctly rendered back into English, 
will, we are assured, be found to read as follows : — 

1. " Hail, inhftbitanU of the monntains 
Still covered with snow — 
With those of Ethiopia, 
India, and China ; 
Old riven, 
Islea, and mainland!^ 
Your captirea are 
Invited to freedom. 

2 " Wo to the peopU 
Of ftrange godSf 
Who adore idoU ; 
The perdition of nations^ 
The Africans in darhuss. 
The Atiatics in ignorance, 
The Mahometans, and 
The Romans returned to their wickedness. 

3. " How can we, 

Who are enlightened, 

Refuse men in darimess 

The light of life ! 

The life ! the life ! 

Let us diffuse it — 

That the world may hear the Messiah 

And be converted." 

We have endeavoured to find, particularly in the second verse, 
something corresponding to the original of the eminent divine, of 
whose celebrated hymn it is said to be a translation. But admitting 
it as having been intended as a mere imitation of the original, the 
blending of the Mahometans and|i| Romans together, as having 
returned to their wickedness, ma^^or aught we know, be highly 
poetic, but is certainly no imitation of the spirit which actuated the 
benevolent author of the original production, or of that charity, and 
forbearance, and brotherly love, which are ever warm in the heart 
of the truly pious, no matter to what sect or denomination he 
may belong. We honour the labours of the missionary, who, in 
singleness of heart, and with rational and pious zeal, goes forth to 
labour in the vineyard of his Divine Master, whether it be among 
the ignorant and needy in his own country, or among the heathen ^'^i,^^ 
in far distant isles ; for good may come from his labours in the one ^4; 

instance, if not in the other. 









'$f 



* 1 



422 YOTAGB OP THS POTOMAC. [AugllSly 

Ax Oahu, it is nd to be disgaised, that m most unhappy state of 
things exists between the missionaries and other foreigners and 
resident traders on the island. They are constantly arrayed 
against each other. The missionaries complain that they have 
been opposed in their Tiews and endeaTOors to introduce the 
Christian doctrine among the natiTes, and we hare no doubt their 
complaints are but too well founded ; that every act of theirs is 
riewed in an unfarourable light ; and that they would have pro- 
ceeded faaXei and farther, had it not been for the influence of 
the traders, who were generally deroid of all rehgious principle, 
and practised the greatest frauds upon the natives in their dealings 
with them ; which tends to corrupt their morals, and to preclude 
all hope of fairness of trade among them ! 

The foreign residents, as may well be supposed, are composed of 
people of all nations, the English and American predominating ; 
and though there are a number of Tery respectable individuals set- 
tled at Oahu with commercial riews, yet it is not to be denied, and 
no one can regret it more than we do, that the white population, gen- 
erally speaking, are of the very worst order ; among whom every 
thing like that decent restraint which civilized society imposes 
upon its members is at war with their vicious propensities, and of 
course resisted by them to the extent of their power. 

What then ? Shall the missionan' sanction their evil deeds ? 
Certainly not. But let him* mingle with them — not in austerity, 
but in mildness — reprove and reason with them. Let him reflect 
that commerce, though it carry evils in its train, is indispensable 
as a helpmate in the work of civilization, without which, four 
hundred years' experience, iaall parts of the worid, prove how 
little can be done by the missionary ! Let him be careful to ab- 
stain from all unbecoming interference in the civil affairs of the 
island. Of such interference he should not only be innocent, but 
above suspicion. Let him give no cause of complaint, that he 
exercises, or attempts to exercise, any control over the natives in 
matters of trade ; these things will regulate themselves. There 
is no reason that he should not provide for himself and his family ; 
but in doing so, he should be cautious that he gives no cause for 
belief that he looks for the reward of his labours in the good things 
of this world. Let him be foremost in teaching the natives the 
arts of civihzation ; let him even join in their labours, and not 



1882.] SANDWICH ISLANDS. 423 

frown on their innocent amusements ; teach the industrious how 
to improve his taro patch — ^how to make two blades grow where 
only one had grown before. Let him offer rewards to the most 
successful cultivator of bis little farm — as well as to the one who 
shall best get his lesson at school, or be most regular in his at- 
tendance at church. 

Should missionaries of any other denomination come to the 
island, go forth to meet them — extend the hand ere they have 
touched the shore — ^bid them welcome. Differ they may in many 
things ; but what of that ? The harvest is great, and the labour- 
ers are few. Let them live in peace. 

Let us be distinctly understood in the remarks we have made, 
in reference to the foreign residents and missionaries on this island. 
As to the question, which party is on the right side of virtue and 
good order, there can be but one opinion, where there is not even 
room for comparison ; we are not the advocate nor the apolo- 
gist of the improprieties of the former ; and we have been free 
in our remarks of what we deem the errors of the latter, because 
all should rejoice to see the great objects of the benevolent and 
Christian world realized, in the extension of civilization and the 
gospel to earth's remotest bound. The very efforts made in such 
a cause assist to keep alive the charities of the world. 

When will our government become sensible of the necessity 
of placing at these islands a consular agent, on a salary which' 
shall render him independent of trade, and who might be enable4» 
at all times, to exercise his influence for good? 



4M YOTAOX OP THB POTOMAC. [September, 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

PuBag« to the Society Idaiids— laUnd of Otaheite, or Tahiti— MaUvia Baj^De- 
fcrq^n of the natives — Dress, hooses, food, 6uc. — ^Appearance of the countiy— • 
A banquet champ^tre — ^Divine worship— Increase of temperance among the na- 
tiyes^The qaeen-dowager — A sprig of royalty — Dinner on board the frigate- 
State of the Island — Sail for Valparaiso. 

The day after learing Honoruru and the Island Oahu, found 
the Potomac bounding on her way to the south and east, with a 
fresh northeast tradewind. Although a month had been spent, 
and happily spent too, at the loVely island we were now leaving 
far behind us, we were not displeased at finding ourselves once 
more upon the ocean. A month is a long time for a sailor to be 
cooped up in port ; he pants for the exhilarating, darting spring of 
the ship, when met by the high rolling swell — the spirit-stirrings 
onward motion. Even the passing squall has its charms and its 
attractions. But these again soon tire; and we look forward, 
with new interest, to the coming port. 

In fact, there is nothing like variety ; it has been aptly called 
the spice of life — of a sailor's life, we are sure that it is so— 
though replete with hardships, dangers, and privations ^ for, after 
all, his life is a merry one. It is not only a useful life, biit a 
pleasant one, to all who choose to make it so. 

As long as the northeast tradewind lasted, we looked forward 
with pleasure at the prospect of stopping at the Marquesas Islands ; 
of which the most considerable are St. Clirisliana and St. Pedro, 
the first of which is situated in latitude 9° 55' south, longitude 
139° 9' west. We had already gained the longitude; and a 
few days more would take us so far to the east as to reach them 
on the other tack, or with the southeast wind. Unfortunately, on 
the twenty-third of August, the wind died away; it then became 
calm ; variables followed ; nor did we get the northeast trade, 
until the third of September ; when, close upon the larboard tack, 
and standing to the south and west, we found ourselves only able 
to fetch the Society Islands. 



1832.] khuzenstbrk's island. * 426 

This group of islands, which is very numerous, was visited 
by Captain Cook in seventeen hundred and sixty-nine. They 
are situated between latitude W 10' and le*" 55' south; and be- 
tween longitude 150*" 57' and 152° west. The principal island 
of the group was called Otaheite by Captain Cook, but the na- 
tives pronoimce it Tahiti. No authentic knowledge of this island, 
however, was obtained, until Captain Wallis, in the Dolphin, crossed 
the Pacific, about sixty years ago. He anchored in Matavia Bay, 
on the nineteenth of June, seventeen hundred and sixty-seven; 
gave to the harbour the name of Port Royal, and to the . land, 
*' King George the Third's Island." The adjacent island of Eimeo, 
or Moorea, situated abput fourteen miles west of Tahiti, was seen 
by Captain Wallis, who called it the Duke of York's Island. 

On the evening of the twelfth we were near to Dean's Island, 
and stood off for the night under •easy sail ; and in the morning, 
again filled away. The night had been boisterous and rainy, and 
the wind strong. We now looked out for land, as we moved on 
at the rate of ten knots. At eight o'clock land was reported, which 
was supposed to be Dean's Island ; but by our observation, soon 
after taken, it appeared that we had drifted by in the night, and 
were now rapidly approaching Kruzenstem's Island, discovered 
by, and named after, that indefatigable conunander of the Russian 
discovery ship. 

It is one of the most singular islands imaginable ; appearing 
like a long low green patch, thickly covered with beautiful trees 
and evergreens on the side next to us. Part of the island was 
broken off into inlets, through which a heavy surf roDed in from 
the ocean, foaming and breaking into the lagoon. The latter 
might be seen from the foreyard, clear, calm, and placid, reflect- 
ing the rays of the sun as from a glassy mirror; contrasting 
strangely with the wild swell of the ocean without. Indeed, the 
whole island seemed to form a mere emerald frame to this beau- 
tiful sheet of crystal, which appeared set within its bosom. 

As we passed along, at the distance of a mile or two, the na- 
tives came upon the beach, displaying their white flags, and 
making fires along the water's edge, to attract our attention, and 
invite us on shore. Cheerfully had we accepted this hospitable 
invitation, had the roughness of the sea afforded the least pros- 
pect of landing in safety. But what must have been the feelings 



426 voYAGB OF THE POTOMAC. [September, 

of these islanders on beholding our noble ship, rising as it were 

from the bosom of the waters in the distance, and increasing in 

magnitude as she approached ; then dashing by them like some 

giant spectre, and again burying herself in the ocean from which 

she at first appeared to emerge ; leaving nothing behind but a 

yague, indefinite remembrance of an indescribable vision! A I 

visit by us would have been an era in their annals. But it was 

impracticable \o land, and we had to treat their tokens of amity 

and good-will with apparent neglect. Is it not strange that the 

white flag, among " all nations, kindreds, tongues, and people," 

should be adopted as the emblem of peace and good-wiU ? Like 

Noah's white-winged dove, if it fail to find a resting-place, it 

must return again to the ark. 

Early on the morning of Thursday, September thirteenth, the 
Island of Otaheite, or Tahiti^ was seen from the deck ; although, 
according to our observation at noon, we could not have been less 
than sixty miles distant from it ! After standing on till late in 
the afternoon, we found ourselves still eight or ten miles distant, 
and not being able to make the anchorage, we stood on under easy 
sail. The Island of Otaheite is very high ; but being surrounded 
with clouds, could not be distinctly seen, as we neared it on the 
first day. The Inland of Eimeo, or Moorea, to the west, has a 
peculiarly nigged appearance, one peak rising in naked grandeur 
above another, and looking down upon the ocean. Numerous 
other islands to the northward and westward, just pencilled their 
light-blue outlines on the distant horizon. 

Our navigation for a few days past had been very dangerous, 
and of course the cause of great anxiety to the mind of the com- 
modore. Many of the small islands are very low, surrounded by 
coral beds and reefs, and difficult to be seen until very nearly ap- 
proached. These dangers are greatly increased by night, render- 
ing a ship of the Potomac's dimensions exceedingly unsafe, 
through most parts of this extensive and deeply-interesting archi- 
pelago. During the night we stood slowly to windward ; but in 
the morning we squared away, and made all sail for the southern 
extremity of the island ; then coasted along at the distance of three 
miles from it, so that by ten o'clock we had passed along nearly 
the whole of the northwest part of it. A number of white houses 



i 



1S32.] 1S0C1ETT ISLANDS. 427 

were seen on the shore^ but we could see nothini^ that looked like 
a harbour. 

After firing a gun, several canoes came off, in one of which 
was a man who spoke tolerable English, and called himself a 
pilot. It appeared that we had passed Point Venus, forming 
Matavia Bay, and were at this time near to Pu-pu-te harbour, 
which he represented as being not only safe, but preferable to the 
ether. A boat was sent to examine it, while we feasted our eyes 
in contemplating one of the most lovely isles that dot the vast 
blue bosom of the Pacific Ocean. Every part seemed clothed 
with verdure, of apparently impenetrable thickness. Large patches 
of ploughed land could be seen in different directions, while here 
and there grazing cattle, and other indications of agricultural im- 
provements, met the eye. The whole island was far superior, in 
every point of external appearance, to that of Oahu. 

In about two hours the boat returned, bringing a favourable ac- 
count of the bay in question, especially as to its beauty ; but as 
the entrance to it is very narrow, the commodore determined at 
once to stand for Matavia, which was wider and more easy of ac- 
cess ; and in the coiurse of a very short time we found ourselves 
safely anchored within the harbour, in fourteen fathoms of water ; 
Point Venus bearing northeast-by-north ; the centre building on 
shore, east-northeast; west point, southwest-half-West ; tail of 
the reef, northwest-by-north. Abreast of the frigate were two or 
three houses belonging to the missionaries ; some short distance 
iback, a few native huts might be seen, partially buried in the co- 
coanut and orange-groves ; while all beyond was nature's own 
wild production. 

On Friday, the fourteenth, we went on shore, in company with 
the missionary, Mr. Wilson, who had come off to pay his respects 
to the commodore ; and were, on landing, invited to his house. 
We had brought with us some handkerchiefs, and such toys as 
the purser had to sell ; and which we found, in buying firuit, 
or something to eat, answered equally as well, or better than 
money. 

Almost the first thing that struck us, was the vast difference 
between the natives of this island and those of Oahu, which w^ 
had just left. In every thing they seemed superior ; m colour 
much lighter ; in many instances their features approaching al- 



488 voTAOE OF THE POTOMAC. [September, 

most to European. Both men and women are better looking ; 
their teeth are remarkably white and regular ; their hair is worn 
•horty and alike by both sexes. All use cocoanut-oil upon their 
persons, particularly the females — imparting to them an unpleasant 
odour. They are neat in their appearance : some dressed in 
frocks, and others in the tap<^ worn as in the Sandwich Islands. 
They have but few ornaments ; occasionally a string of shells may 
be seen around the neck, or a single flower stuck through a hole 
with which the ears of the females are perforated. 

Their houses are by no means so neat as tiiose of the Sand- 
wich Islands, neither inside nor out ; and their construction is 
different, — ^being flat-roofed, and quite open all round. In the 
manufacture of the native cloth they also display less ingenuity. 
Nature has been bountiful to them in the spontaneous production 
of every necessary to sustain life ; hence, feeling nothing of that 
keen necessity which is the parent of industry and the great in- 
centive to invention, it is not to be wondered at that they should 
be excessively idle and averse to labour. What inducement is 
there for them to cultivate the soil, when the bread-fruit, cocoa- 
nut, wild plantain, banana, orange, taro-root, and other vegetables 
and fruits, are constantly blooming into spring, and ripening 
into autumn, in an endless succession of the tropical seasons 7 

The country is finely wooded, in appearance resembling an ex- 
tensive and beautiful grove. There is nothing like a village ; but 
the huts are scattered here and there, beneath the cool and shady 
branches of some spreading tree ; where the natives were mostly 
seated in little family groups, as happy as they were ignorant of 
the world beyond the limits of their own little isle. They were 
always ready to barter whatever they had to spare, though totally 
ignorant of the comparative value of things. There was positive 
enjoyment in our unrestrained rambles " where fancy led," amid 
this new, this virgin scenery, 

" Where every trifle could a theme impart 
To instruct the mind, and captivate the heart :" 

the spirit found ample food, while wearied nature required some- 
thing a little more substantial . Meeting some natives with a dressed 
pig, ready for the spit, we struck a bargain for it ; and with a na- 
tive for our major domo, prepared for a feast d la Tahitian, A 



1832.] 80CIETT ISLANDS. 429 

shcNTt walk brought us to the spot where some islanders had been 
cooking. By our native cook, no time was to be lost ; a hole 
was made in the ground ; fire was then produced by the friction 
of two hard pieces of wood ; and every thing dry and combusti- 
ble was collected around, of which a large fire was constructed, 
and ample preparations made to Ituzu our pig — ^bread-fruit and 
bananas, as already described in our account of the Sandwich 
Islands. Here was no richly furnished table ; but our savoury 
banquet was spread upon large plantain-leaves, on the verdant 
carpet of nature, beneath the green boughs of spreading cocoanut 
trees ; the orange, citron, and lemon around, bending to the earth 
with the weight of their rich golden fruits. In this rural spot, 
with none but the wild islanders for our guests, we enjoyed a most 
dehcious repast. 

These natives had formerly the reputation of being great 
thieves ; but at present evinced no disposition to reduce that pro 
pensity to practice. If this change have been brought about by 
the labours of the missionaries, they have done good in this, as in 
other things. 

At this part of the island there is a large church, of which Mr* 
Wilson is the pastor. The Sunday after our arrival, we attended 
Divine worship. There were about two hundred natives present^ 
all of whom were well dressed ; and during the sermon, which 
was delivered in the native language, many of them appeared at- 
tentive and devout. Their language is much more soft and bar* 
monioHS than that spoken by the natives of the Sandwich Islands. 
The h)rmns sung by the females were quite harmonious ; and 
some of them, in a low, soft, and subdued tone, might be called 
musical. 

There is a small town about nine miles distant from Matavia 
Bay ; and the road leading to it is not less than forty feet wide, 
level, and well made. In fact, this road is the best specimen of 
internal improvement to be met with in any of these islands ; it 
seems, indeed, almost out of keeping with the still rude simplicity 
of the natives. This town is the headquarters of the foreign mis- 
sionaries. Here are undoubtedly the greatest improvements ; but 
they seem small when measured by the long period they have been 
in making. The sugarcane and cotton grow well here, and might 
be cultivated to any extent. But when will these natural caoacities 



430 voYAGB OF THE POTOMAC. [September, 

of the island be called into action ? When will the natives*, of 
their own accord, become industrious ? Tell us when the ocean 
will refuse its tribute of fish, and their rich groves no longer 
yield their tropical fruits — and we will answer. 

The water obtained at this place we deemed of better quality 
than any we had got during the whole cruise, and may be obtained 
with great facility. Refreshments of all kinds, common to the 
island, including good beef, were procured in abundance, and on 
the most reasonable terms. 

It has been said, and we have reason to believe with much 
truth, that the propensity of indulging to excess in the use of ar- 
dent spirits, when in their power, has greatly decreased within a 
few years past; while other vices,. common to the condition of 
such people, are still practised. 

We had not the pleasure of seeing her royal highness, the 
queen, as she was absent with her retinue of attendants at another 
part of the island, and at such a distance, that our short stay would 
not allow of her return. The day before we sailed, however, we 
received a visit from the queen-dowager, or mother of Pomare, 
the present queen. She was accompanied by her nephew, a 
youth of about ten years of age, and king of some of the neigh- 
bouring islands. The queen-mother might be forty years of age ; 
she was dressed in a striped blue silk frock, and wore a yellow 
shawl; and was, in fact, not a bad specimen of royalty. Her 
bonnet was of Otaheitan manufacture ; but what shall we say of 
the other extremity ? Instead of the small ankle, and httle foot 
peeping out from beneath — there stood two naked feet, both of 
them fantastically tattooed. The little king wore a short bob-tail- 
ed coat, thickly covered with little bell-buttons, and pantaloons, 
which descended but a little below his knees ! 

Accompanied by several of the missionaries, they dined on 
board the frigate ; partaking of an entertainment given to them by 
the commodore. The attendants in this train of royalty were 
mostly dressed in native costume, presenting a striking contrast 
to the display made by the authorities at the Sandwich Islands. 

In fact, though considerable advancement has unquestionably 
been made in some respects ; though churches have been estab- 
lished, schools kept up, and the ground partially cultivated — yet, 
when we consider the length of time permanent instructers have 



1832.] SOCIETY ISLANDS. 431 

been located on the island, we cannot but feel that the harvest 
has not been in proportion to the labours of the husbandmen. 
There are many causes which must ever render their advance- 
ment in civilization slow, and of doubtful issue. 

In the first place, they are happy in their own shady groves, 
and delight in their wild and unrestrained mode of life. Their 
geographical position is unfavourable to much foreign intercourse 
— an intercourse which, though strewing vices in its train, is 
nevertheless necessary to a people who would change from sav- 
age to civilized life. The island, however, is one of great inter- 
est ; and the time may come, when it will enter largely into the 
concerns of the Pacific. 

On Wednesday, September ninetegith, we unmoored ship, and 
made ready for sea ; and on the following day we bade farewell to 
Matavia Bay — its lofty hills and shady groves, with their spirit- 
bewitching enchantments, and directed our course towards Val- 
paraiso, at which port we arrived on the twenty-third of October, 
as stated in our introduction. 



TOTAOB OF THE POTOMAC. [November, 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

Yalparaiao— Amicable deportment of the inhabitants — Interchange of cifilitiee 
Accomulated documents — Extent and importance of the Pacific station — Dlegal 
detention of two American whale-ships — ^Defects in our consular system — ^Effects 
of the revolution — Other ports on the coast — The islands — Sail from Valparaiso 
— ^Arrive at Callao— Meet with the Falmouth and Dolphin — ^Descriptioii of tht 
harbour^— Visit Lima. « 

The Potomac having winged her way around the world (New- 
York and Valparaiso being nearly on the same meridian*) had 
now arrived in safety on the station for which she had been 
origihaUy selected by the navy department, as relief of the United 
States' ship Guerriere. The circumstances which led her to the 
east, and the services performed there, have already been detailed. 
For many months, her arrival on the station had been anxiously 
looked for by her officers and men, who were now delighted, 
refreshed, and invigorated, by the fine and healthy climate of 
Chili. A few days were now happily spent in reciceation, and 
the interchange of civilities, not only with the citizens of Valpa- 
raiso, but also with a few agreeable families from our own country, 
settled in Chili for purposes of commerce. 

Time, however, admitted but of short respite. The interests 
6f an extensive coast were to be looked after* Communications 
and official despatches, which had been accumulating for more 
than twelve months, in anticipation of the commodore's arrival, 
had now to be examined and answered ; while new dispositions 
were to be made of the other public vessels under his conmiand. 

The Pacific station is an extensive one, the several ports being 
distant from each other. On doubling Cape Horn, and entering 
the Pacific Ocean from the South Atlantic, the first port of entry 
is Chiloe, in latitude 42° south. The second is Valdivia, one 
degree further north. The third is Conception, in latitude 37* 

♦ The Potomac had more than circumnavigated the globe ; as Valparaiso is one 
degree and forty-six minutes further east than New- York, and four degrees and 
forty-six minutes further east than Washington city, from whence she first started. 






1832.] PACIFIC STATION. 433 

south, where the Potomac now lay at anchor, some distance! 
from the shore, throwing the rest of the shipping and town, 
with the surrounding hills, in the rear, as has been faithfully rep- 
resented by ^e artist in the accompanying engraving. Proceed- 
ing north, Coquimbo, Copiapo, and Huasco, comprise the re- 
maining part of the Republic of Chili. 

The two first named, Chiloe and Valdivia, are seldom visited 
by our vessels, though time may render them more important^ 
especially Valdivia, to our whale-ships, while cruising for the 
spermaceti off shore, or for the right whale along the coast , as is 
frequently and successfully done. The harbour is certainly 
among the best on the coast of Chili; and generally, such 
refreshments as are needed by whalemen in the midst of a cruise^ 
or in preparing to double the Cape, may be procured in great 
abundance, and on the most reasonable terms. 

Talcahuano, the port of Conception, has been much visited by 
our whale-ships ; and from its many advantages, would be more 
so, particularly as the last port preparatory to their return to the 
United States, could they but find in that place adequate protec- 
tion in a resident consul. The natural resources of this province, 
lying as it does on the borders of the Araucanian country^ jmd 
extending from the ocean to the Cordilleras, will in time make 
it one of the richest departments of Chili. 

Of Valparaiso it is scarcely necessary for us to speak — cer- 
tainly ndt in detail, as the importance of the harbour has long 
been known. It is a point where all our merchant vessels touch, 
whateveo^ may be their destination, on or from the coast. But 
our whale-ships seldom enter the harbour — in winter, nevet««»-a8 
it lies exposed to the ocean from the north ; and, during the vinnter 
months, .>he wind is sometimes strong from that quarter. The 
sea rolls ih with great power, and the anchorage there is not 
only exc^dingly unpleasant, but highly dangerous. Many ves^ 
sels, uid-aotne lives, have been lost at such times. ». 

The to^wn contains about twenty thousand inhabitants, and to 
the eye .of a stranger presents but a very imperfect idea of its 
extent and importance. Here is centred nearly the wh(de foraign 
commerce of Chili ; and as a commercial depots it will be ten- 
dered still more important, as the government has wisely deter-' 



434 VOYAGE OF THE POTOMAC. [NovembcT, 

mined on making it a free port of entry ; and a fine building for 
the facilities of storage has recently been erected by the govern- 
ment. 

The inhabitants of Valparaiso are exceedingly courteous and 
amicably disposed. The great number of visiters of all classes 
who frequented the frigate's decks, to view the vessel and enjoy 
the music of a fine band ; the several hospitable entertainments 
given them ; and the corresponding courtesies received from the 
residents on shore, were such as to render our stay in port most 
agreeable ; and the tendency was such as to increase the friendly 
disposition of the inhabitants towards their elder sister republic 
of the north. 

What a change has been wrought by the revolution ! But a 
short period has elapsed since this port was only visited by a few 
Spanish galleons ; and one or two vessels annually sailed from 
thence to Callao ! Now, we nieet in the same port the flags of 
all nations, engaged in a busy commerce ; and the people of the 
country throwing oflf old prejudices, partaking of the improved- 
men ts, and advancing with the spirit of the age in which they live. 

Coquimbo, Huasco, and Copiapo, mentioned as the three 
remaining ports to the north, are places of importance, as being 
the ports of the great mining districts of the country, from which 
the article of copper alone enters largely into our commercial 
transactions, not only in return cargoes, but in shipments made 
from the coast to Canton, in American bottoms. The American 
merchants will have to contend with new competitors in the direct 
trade between these countries and China, now that the East India 
Company's charter no longer prevents British merchants from en- 
gaging in this trade under the British flag. 

The crew having been allowed liberty on shore, and the Po- 
tomac being replenished with water and provisions, the commo- 
dore had prepared to sail for Talcahuano, for the purpose of 
inquiring into the cause of the detention of two of our whale- 
ships, which had several months previously been illegally seized 
and detained by the local authorities of that place ; showing great 
defects in our present consular system, or neglect of our consul 
at the nearest port — probably both. 

On the morning of the day set for our departure to that port, 
his Britannic majesty's ship Dublin, Lord James Townsend in 



1832.] PACIFIC STATION. 435 

command, arrived from Talcahuano, bringing the agreeable intel- 
ligence that the vessels in question had been released, and had, 
by that time, probably sailed for the United States. The amount 
of damages sustained by these vessels, with full cargoes of oil, 
lying so long, and subject to leakage, besides creating a subject 
for adjustment between the two countries, is probably greater 
than would be required to support an independent consul in that 
place for ten years. When will our government look to and 
reform the defects in our consular system ? 

Proceeding to the north, the next port after leaving Chili is 
Cobija, recently risen in importance from having been made a free 
port of entry for the Republic of Bolivia. This country, contain'^ 
ing, as it does, twelve hundred thousand inhabitants, connected 
on the northwest with Peru, on the northeast and east with Brazil, 
on the south with the Argentine Republic, and washed by the 
Pacific Ocean on the west, opens a commercial field of consider* 
able importance to the enterprise of our merchants. The country, 
though mountainous, is in many places exceedingly productive. 
Many of its silver mines are among the richest in South America ; 
those of Potosi have been long celebrated. 

It was on this soil the Spaniards made their last effort, under 
the Viceroy la Sema, and suffered a signal defeat by the Patriot 
forces under Sucre, on the battle-ground of Ayacucho, on the 
ninth December, eighteen hundred and twenty-four. This is now 
one of the best regulated republics of South America ; its resour^ 
ces are certainly less exhausted, and its government presents the 
anomaly of a surplus in the treasur)' ! The port of Cobija, there* 
fore, is not only important on these accounts, but would be ren* 
dered more so, at any moment, should something occur to inter- 
rupt our friendly relations with Chili or Peru ; as it would, in 
such case, become the port of deposite for our merchandise. 

The several ports of entry along the extensive coast of Peru 
will be noticed more in detail as we pass along. American inter- 
ests are extensive with them all, and require constant looking 
after. 

Leaving the coast of Peru, Guayaquil is the principal port of 
the Equador ; and then follows the port of Panama, the emporium 
of the old Spanish galleons, where were collected the treasures 
of Peru and Chili before they were sent to the mother cotmtry* 

Be 2 



[ 



436 TOTAGS or the potomac. [December^ 

f^ Still adTancing to the north, we find the ports of Mexico, up the 

Gulf of California. 

Thus does the Pacific station present one continued line of 
eoast, of not less than seventy degrees of latitude, interspersed 
with numerous ports of entry, and under the fluctuating commer- 
cial regulations and restrictions of new and distinct governments. 
It might, indeed, be said, that the station extended north as far as 
the mouth of Columbia river ; which would make it more than 
eighty degrees of latitude, embracing about forty on each side of 
the equator. 

But even this extensive coast does not embrace the whole of 
the Pacific station. Stretching off from the coast, a new and ex- 
tensive world is opened to the west, among the islands. The 
present important and daily increasing interests of the fisheries 
and other trafiic ; the nature of the business ; the amount of ton- 
nage and capital employed ; all render this part of the station 
especially deserving the national care. No one can behold the 
hardy, silent, and persevering efforts of our countrymen in this 
quarter, without a feeling of exultation and pride ! They are con- 
fined to no sea (Ht clime, and often perform the circumnavigation 
of the globe in making up a single voyage. The numerous diffi- 
culties they encounter, and the daily complaints among them, 
show that they have not been sufficiently protected ; and that the 
islands forming a part of the station, require at least one vessel 
from the squadron to be constantly among them. 

Every thing conspires to render the Pacific a place of great 
interest to the people of the United States at the present time. I 

Our future sea-fights are as likely to take place here as on the 
Atlantic Ocean; for where we are acquiring a preponderating 
commercial interest, there must be our navy also. 

Such is the extent and importance of the Pacific station — a ] 

station which cannot be well protected with a less force than one 
frigate, two sloops-of-war, and a schooner. The coast of Chili 
should never be without one, and the same may be said of Peru ; 
while the ports to the north, Panama, and in the Gulf of Cahfor- 
nia, to the northwest, and the islands, will afford sufficient active 
employment for two more. 

Anxious to fall in with the other vessels, now to the north, the 
commodore determined on leaving Valparaiso on the second of 



I 



1832.] PACIFIC STATION. 437 

December; and after a passage of thirteen days, arrived at Callao 
on the fifteenth, where the sloop-of-war Falmouth, Master-com- 
mandant F. H. Gregory, just from Guayaquil and the intermedi- 
ate ports, was awaiting our arrival. The Falmouth had sailed 
from the United States on the fifth of July, eighteen hundred and 
thirty-one, and arrived at Valparaiso on the twenty-ninth of Oc- 
tober. This sloop, and the schooner Dolphin, Lieutenant-com- 
mandant Long, were the only vessels we had on the coast firom 
that period to the arrival of the Potomac. 

Long before we made the anchorage, the Dolphin got under 
way and stood out to meet us ; and as the broad pennant was 
recognised by her and the Falmouth, each saluted the commo- 
dore, and was answered by the Potomac, as she rounded the 
Island of San Lorenzo, and stood slowly in to the anchorage. 

The Island of San Lorenzo, four or five leagues in circumfer- 
ence, may be said to form the harbour on the west, while the 
shores of Boca Negra and Lancon are on the southeast ; beyond, 
the high lands which form the ridges and mountains rise one above 
another, imtil lost to the sight. This bay is from fourteen to six- 
teen leagues in circuit, formed by the island into the shape of a 
horseshoe, whose centre afibrds one of the safest anchorages in 
the world ; and where, at any hour of the day or night, vessels 
may enter or depart vnthout apprehension of danger of any kind. 
When vessels are once at anchor, they remain without being ex- 
posed to storms, or hurricanes, or winds to molest them, being 
under cover of the island ; so that some have remained at anchor 
for five, or six, or more years, with weak cables. The north 
winds are felt sometimes in June and November, but without 
violence. 

The most favourable circumstance of this port, perhaps unique 
in its kind, is that the sailing of vessels can be fixed for a certain 
day with the utmost certainty, as the wind regulafly blows from 
the south ; and it is very seldom that there is not a sufficient 
breeze for this purpose. So that when the day of sailing is an- 
nounced, even the hour and minute can be stated, without the risk 
of disappointment. To this advantage is added, that vessels may 
enter the bay and leave it with the' same wind, facilitated by the 
ample space afibrded them for manoeuvring, and the safe depend* 
ance to be placed on the bottom. 



438 VOYAGE OF THE POTOMAC. [Deccmbcr, 

From the observations and analysis made by Baron de Hum- 
boldt, the water of this bay was found to be two degrees colder 
than any other on the coast ; and this is not only verified by the 
testimony of those who bathe in it, but also by its protecting ves- 
sels from the corroding effects of worms and marine insects, so 
destructive to them in almost every other port. 

At the distance of a league to the east is the famous Rimac, the 
principal stream of the valley of Lima, by the side of which it 
runs, meandering and beautifying its banks. Next follow, in the 
view, the ports of Lancon and Chancay, on whose fertile shores 
were formerly the celebrated cane plantations, and where, since 
the revolution, they again begin to assume importance. 

On the opposite side is presented a sandy, uninhabited coast, 
which goes off diminishing from the port of Callao, for half a 
league, to the point of the island called la Mar brava. The 
island is now some distance from the main ; but according to the 
accounts of those who existed previous to the last inundation of 
Callao, the channel between them was so narrow as to admit of 
a verbal communication from one' beach to the other. But since 
the inundation, from some cause or other, the water has been evi- 
dently gaining on the land. 

For a long time after the destruction of Callao, no other build- 
ings were erected in it except the castle and custom-house. Bella- 
vista having been selected, and large bodegas, or store-houses, 
built for the deposite of the grains, liquors, fruits, and other effects 
of the trade with Chili and Guayaquil, Bellavista soon sprang up 
into a flourishing village, while Callao lay in its mouldering ruins, 
almost neglected. The famous stone mole, which had been erected 
at so much cost for the security and facility of commerce, had 
disappeared in the general ruin — the particulars of which we shall 
give hereafter. 

Time and the revolution have produced another change. Bel- 
lavista has fallen into decay, and Callao is rapidly rebuilding. 
Foreign merchants, who have the entire control of the foreign 
commerce of the country, reside in Lima, but have their agencies 
established in the port. 

Soon as the usual courtesies were interchanged between the 
Potomac and the authorities on shore, as well as the performance 
of many duties connected with the protection of our interests oi^ 



440 TOTAGB OF THE POTOMAC. [December, 



CHAPTER XXV. 

City of Lima — Climate and Temperature — ^View of the City firom the Summit of 
San Christoval-^The ri?er Rimac — CiBtems and fountains — ^Absence of lain, thun- 
der, and lightning. 

For the facto which we have now to offer in regard to the 
climate of this country, and other incidental topics, we are prin- 
cipally indebted to the work of Dr. Unanue on the " Climate of 
Lima.^ Our remarks, indeed, will mostly have reference to that 
city. 

Dr. Unanue divides the Cordilleras, or Andes, into four zones, — 
the torrid, temperate, frigid, and frozen. The first, which is at 
their base, commences at an elevation of about four thousand feet 
above the level of the ocean, and where the thermometer of Reau- 
mur ranges from 16* to 24"*. Here there are woods and flowers, and 
aromatic gums : nature is always in action, and these are regions 
of extreme fertility. 

The second zone extends from four to twelve thousand feet 
above the same level, the medium degree of heat being 13* R., 
and the range from 9" to 16". The two extremes of this zone are 
spring and autumn : the climate is most benignant, and the pro- 
ductions are grain and European fruits. This is the terrestrial 
paradisQ of Peru, and nature is liberal in her productions, even to 
profrision. 

The third zone extends from twelve to fifteen thousand feet 
above the same level. Here the aspect of the country becomes 
entirely different ; every thing is stinted and miserable ; it has been 
said with truth, that Siberia and Kamtschatka have as amiable a 
climate as the inhabitants of these summits. 

They are of small stature, with a complexion brown and parched, 
and literally " toasted by the cold ;" foreheads low, and covered 
with hair, eyes small and sunk in the head, and thus defended 
from the piercing reflection of the solar rays upon the snow. The 
thermometer ranges here at about 4" R. in the months of May, 
June, and July, which is at the freezing point ; during the rainy 



1 832.] CITY OF UlIA. 441 

months it is generally at 8* R. There is here to be found a little 
stinted shrubbery and moss. 

The fourth zone extends from fifteen to twenty-one thousand 
feet in elevation ; this is what Dr. Unanue calls the frozen zone 
Its summit is under the line, and it gradually slopes off towards 
either pole. It crosses the tropics at an elevation of about thirteen 
thousand feet, and at about 45* of south latitude it falls to eight 
or nine thousand feet, and to a level with the superficies of the 
globe : and throughout its whole progress in Peru, it marks the 
boundary of vegetation and life. In this region reign tempestuous 
winds, as at the poles : so that^n giving a general description 
of Peru, it may be said that its summits are crowned with ever- 
lasting winter, and rocked with whirlwinds and storms ; its sides 
adorned with everlasting spring : that autumn reposes in its bosom, 
while summer, with its torrid heat, slumbers at its feet. 

There is a perpetual canopy of clouds resting upon the sum- 
mits of the Andes, and burying themselves in the ocean. These, 
for a considerable part of the year, shield the valleys from the 
heat of the sun. South winds always blow, loaded with fresh- 
ness and vapour. Here are situated the beautiful valleys of Lima, 
of which one of her own poets has sung : — 

''£n fu horizonte el Sol todo et Aurora, 
Eterna el tiempo todo cs Primavera ; 
Sola es riaa del Cielo cada hora, 
Cada mes ea cuenta de la Esfera. 
Son cada alienta on halito de Flora, 
Cada aroyo una Musa liaonjera ; 
Y loa yergelea, que el confin le debe 
Nubes fragrantea con que al Cielo llu^ve. *' 

Lima, which has been decidedly the richest and most celebrated 
city of Southern America, is situated in 12'' 2^ 51" of south lati- 
tude, and 70** 50' 51" of west longitude from Cadiz. Its aspect 
is sloping to the southward and westward, and from- these quar- 
ters only is it exposed to the wind, while to the north it is pro- 
tected by high hills. All the hills around Lima are branches of 
the great Cordilleras of the Andes, the principal chain of which 
passes about twenty leagues inland from the city. The spurs 
which ' pass to the east descend from north to south, in regular 
gradation, forming delightful valleys, and approaching near to the 



>:> 



442 



V0YA(;E of the POTOMAC. 



[December, 



walls on the upper side of the city ; while those on the north pro- 
ject along eiiher side of the river Rimac, till at last they diverge and 
form the valley of Lurigancho, a spacious semicircle in front of 
the upper part of the city. The most elevated of the hills in the 
vicinity of Lima, are San Cliristoval and Amancaes ; the first be- 
ing four hundred and seventy, and the second nine hundred and 
sixty yards above the level of the sea. The view from the sum- 
mit of San Christoval is extensive, and more than compensates 
for the labour of ascending it. There is the city quite at your 
feet, with its numerous towers ; the magnificent Pantheon, or pub- 
lic burial-ground, some distance in the rear; with Indian ruins 
here and there, and in front the beautiful Bay of Callao, with its 
castle and shipping; the lofty and desert Island of San Lorenzo 
in the distance ; and beyond, the broad Pacific Ocean. Placed on 
the sununit of San Christoval, the imagination leaps its ordinary 
bounds when the eye has mastered the many enchanting objects 
that are clustered around, and but a few of which we have enu- 
merated ; for we have omitted the avenues planted with trees, 
the public promenade, the orange-groves, the fountains, and tlie 
fields of the husbandmen, extending up the valley. Directly 
south, along the coast, lies Chorrillas, about eight and a quarter 
miles from the plaza of Lima. Towards the east numerous sand- 
hills appear, which gradually increase in height as they recede, 
imtil they finally unite with the spurs of the Cordilleras. Such 
are the boundaries which limit the prospect, as the eye is cast 
over the beautiful and spacious valley of Lima. 

The plaza, in the centre of Lima, is one hundred and seventy 
yards above the level of the ocean, towards which the plain in- 
clines so gradually, that the ascent to the city is scarcely percep- 
tible. On examining the qualities of the soil of this inclined p1ane» 
it will be found that at a certain depth there is a stratum of more 
compact and solid earth, over which are layers of sand and gravel, 
or smooth pebbles, precisely the same as found all along the coast 
at the bed of the ocean. This would lead to the behef, that at 
some former period the waters of the ocean were admitted into 
this basin, and extended two or three leagues farther inland than 
they do at present. One thing is certain, that there is now a gra- 
dual, though imperceptible diminution of the waters along the 
coast. Over these layers of sand and pebbles lies a stratum of 



442 



walls on ti 
jccl alon^ 
form tlie 
llie u})pc 
vicinity 
ing fou" 
sixty y.' 
mil of 
for I he 
feel, V 
lie bi 
here 
castl' 
in li- 
the 
hou 
iha- 
me 
th( 
fie 
so 
in 
h' 
II 
n 
c 



\ 



% 



1832.] CITY OF LIMA. ' 443 

Tegetable mould, two feet in depth, more or less, the prodigious 
fertility of which amply repays the toils of the agriculturist. 

Lima is supplied with water from the Rimac. This river 
takes its rise in the province of Huarochiri, where it is formed 
from numerous torrents of melted snow, which precipitate them- 
selves from the Cordillera of the Andes. It runs a westerly 
course, over a sandy and stony bed. In its progress, it is used to 
irrigate the farms which lie along either of its banks. A short 
distance before it arrives at the city, a large aqueduct branches 
off to the south, from which the streets of the city are profusely 
watered, there being a stream of water running through every 
street from east to west. The waters which have been employed 
in fertilizing the fields along the rivers' banks are collected into 
two reservoirs : the one to the east of San Christoval they call 
puquiosy and it supplies the suburbs of San Lazaro ; the other, to 
tiie east of the city, is called the targea, and it is from this that the 
cisterns and fountains of the city are supplied. 

The water of Lima is reputed to be unhealthy, and produc- 
tive gt derangements of the digestive organs. By analysis it ap- 
pears to contain an unusual quantity of selenite, a large amount 
of chalk or marl, and various oily earths ; and these foreign mat- 
ters arc found to increase as the river advances, until finally an 
immense quantity of gross and oily earths, and mephitic airs, are 
found in the solution. Whoever reflects on the source of the wa- 
ters, and the soil over which they pass, would infer that their bad 
qualities were rather to be ascribed to want of proper care in 
their conveyance, than to any inherent want of purity. In the 
reservoir which supplies the pipes and fountains, there are water- 
plants growing, and depositions of decaying vegetable matter ; and 
it is not uncommon to find even dead animals there also. The 
conduits, as they enter the city, pass through the midst of ceme- 
teries and sepulchres, and under bogs and pools of standing water 
from the dirty streets ; and the incessant rolling of carriages over 
them, as they lie near the surface, is constantly impairing them ; 
so that the waters they convey are impregnated with every im- 
purity, and with the common filthy waters which run in the 
streets. 

The river Rimac separates the city firom the suburbs of San 
Lazaro on the north ; and over it there is a beautiful stone bhdgei 






^y. ■ 7 



^^■ 



444 



VOTAGB OF THE POTOMAC. 



[December, 



with five lofiy arches. The bridge is provided with seats, and is 
a fine lounging-place in summer evenings. 

There are numerous small fountains; a principal one in the 
Plaza throws up the water many feet above the surface of the 
ground. 

The atmosphere of Lima is almost uniformly dark and murky. 
The smoke of the city, the vapour from the coast, and the exha- 
lations from a rich vegetation, perpetuaUy overhang the city like 
a wide-spread awning, which the gentle force of the south wind, 
the only one to which it is exposed, is not able to raise above the 
summits of the surrounding hills. Even in the season of greatest 
heat, when the sun approaches the zenith, rarefying the air and 
dispelling the vapours, the mist still shrouds the city, while the 
surrounding country, at no great distance, enjoys a dear and 
beautiful sky. If, during the clearest weather, a passing cloud 
intercepts the rays of the sun, a condensation of the vapours 
inunediately takes place, and the sky is at once overcast, showing 
the great amount of moisture in the atmosphere. Throughout 
the day, in the winter season, the atmosphere is in continual com- 
motion. In the morning the horizon is covered with dense fogs : 
these soon rise and disperse as the sun advances ; and at noon it 
is clear, and the sun can be seen : in the evening the fogs return 
again and settle on the earth. In the winter there are some clear 
days and moonlight nights, but these are rare. These nights, 
however, present the heavens among the most beautiful in the 
world. There are found above the horizon, Orion, the Dogs, the 
Ship of Argo, and the beautiful constellation of the southern 
Centaur. If we except those days at tlie end of the warm season 
when the sun is most powerful, and others in the winter when he 
is most obscured by clouds, every day for the rest of the year 
will be little else than an alternation of light and shade : the pro- 
portion between the two varying according as the sun approaches 
or departs from the southern tropic. In the first instance, the 
rays of the sun being more direct, have more force and efficacy 
in dispelling the clouds ; while their obliquity in the latter case 
renders them less efficient. Hence, this perpetual conflict and 
alternate ascendency of the vapours and the rays of the sun, 
gives Lima a hot and himiid climate, without any of the extremes 
of these temperaments. 



1632.] citT OP LIMA. 445 

The annual variation of the thermometer is about 9* Reaumur 
— that is, from 13*, which marks the greatest degree of cold, to 22*, 
which is the register of the greatest heat. In addition to this, there 
is a diurnal variation, which is governed entirely by temperature 
induced by the fluctuation of sunshine and clouds. It ascends, 
according to the number of clear hours in a day, from half a de- 
gree to a degree ; and again, from a space of cloudy weather, it 
descends an equal amount. This diurnal variation of course does 
not take place in days that are entirely cloudy. In the variable or 
clear days, the thermometer rises about two thirds of a degree by 
one in the afternoon, and one third more by four o'clock, which is 
the period of greatest heat. In the night* it descends to the same 
lines from whence it rose in the day. 

The heat which is felt in Lima is generally proportioned to the 
indications of the thermometer, corresponding to the changes pro- 
duced by the winds and clouds. The winds are always refresh- 
ing, so that during the days of greatest heat, the thermometer does 
not rise when they blow ; but in calms, the heat is oppressive. 

The barometer regularly maintains the height of twenty- 
seven inches four lines ; varying no more than 2* 4', without any 
fixed rule, according to the Peruvian observations. But the learned 
Humboldt discovered a daily flux and reflux. From five to nine 
o'clock A. M., it ascends to its greatest height ; from nine to twelve 
it is stationary : soon it descends, until foiu: P. M. : at seven it 
begins to rise, and continues to do so till eleven, and remain* 
stationary till twelve : then again it descends till half past four in 
the morning. These observations were made by Humboldt, in the 
city of Lima, in eighteen hundred and two. 

It may be said that there are but two seasons in Lima. The 
one of summer, in which the heat requires all to put on clothe» 
of the lightest kind ; and the other of winter, in which a total 
change of clothing is required. But to a more close observer, it 
is manifest that the changes of the four seasons are distinctly 
marked. The most notable of these changes is the equinox of 
September, which marks the commencement of the southern 
spring. Every thing then indicates that the god of day has re- 
turned from the north to gladden and warm the southern climes. 
Nature is put more actively in motion, and every thing seems to 
augment in volume and power. Even the animal creation, by it» 



I 



446 ToTAos OP THB POTOMAC. [December, 

animation and energy, shows that the benign and invigorating in« 
fluence of spring is fully felt. The thermometer gradually rises 
from 13" Reaum. to IT**, when a sensible change in the temperature 
is felt : and between this and 1 8* conmiences the summer solstice, 
and marks the heat of the twenty-first December. The southern 
winds now blow with greater force during the month of January : 
and soon after succeed those calms common to this season of the 
year. During the summer solstice, the thermometer rises to 22*; 
and the gardens and fields fill the air with the fragrance of their 
flowers. The wheat becomes ripe, and the season abounds with 
all the sweet and luscious fruits of a tropical summer. 

As soon as the sun passes the equator to the north, a distinct 
change in the warm season is felt. The nights still continue clear, 
while the days gradually become obscure. In April, the vapours 
become condensed, fogs cover the heavens night and day, and the 
mist commences. In the latter part of April or the beginning of 
May, the mists begin to fall profusely, and continue until the fol- 
lowing spring ; and an exposure of two or three hours will wet you 
to the skin. It is a common saying among the Limaians, " Man- 
finitas de May6 y Avril nadie las puede sufirir." 

The only records of rain in Lima are in the years seventeen 
hundred and one, seventeen hundred and twenty, seventeen hun- 
dred ninety-one, and eighteen hundred and six : and of thunder 
and lightning in fifteen hundred and fifty-two, seventeen hiuidred 
and twenty, seventeen hundred and forty-seven, and eighteen 
hundred and four ; and during the latter year, it is said that the 
firuits were ripe in the spring two months before the usual time. 
In the Serrania^ the atmosphere is very electrical, and to the want 
of electricity on the coast we may perhaps attribute the want of 
rain, though this striking peculiariiy is generally attributed to the 
course of the winds bearing vapour, and the attraction of the clouds 
to the neighbouring Cordilleras, where the rains fall in torrents. 






1832.] KARTB4UAKES. 447 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

Earthquakes in Lima — Destruction of the city — Callao overflowed and destroyed by 
the sea — ^Visit Valparaiso — Return to Callao, touching at Coquimbo— Falmouth 
sails for the United States — Potomac proceeds to the north. 

TuosE who dwell in a tranquil country, seldom visited by the 
slightest terrestrial vibrations, can with difficulty form an adequate 
idea of those terrible convulsions of the earth which ravage 
and lay waste the largest and most splendid cities, and overturn 
the very mountains, in countries less favoured by nature in this 
respect. 

We are accustomed to look upon the earth with a conviction 
that it is solid and fixed beneath our feet, and few of us can re- 
alize that it has been, and is still, in some parts of the world, sub- 
ject to undulations more terrific than the mightiest surges of the 
rolling ocean. 

Geologists were formerly in the habit of accoimting for all the 
great revolutions the surface of our planet has undergone, by re- 
ferring them entirely to an aqueous origin. The ocean, from some 
causes, was supposed to have overwhelmed the land, and to have 
buried beneath its waves the loftiest mountains — the fossil shells 
and other marine animal remains upon them were triumphantly 
pointed at as proofs that the sea had risen to their sununits. It 
was their opinion that the sea alone was liable to change of level, 
and it never entered into their minds to conceive that the solid 
earth was also subject to these changes. It is now satisfactorily 
ascertained that the land is not always terra firmay but is liable to 
sudden elevation from subterranean causes. That the bottom of 
the mighty deep has been broken up, and its sedimentary de- 
posites, with all the various organized beings it contained imbed* 
dedy were solidified into rocks, and elevated above the surface by 
powerful causes acting beneath the crust of the globe ! 

In Europe, the countries most subject to earthquakes are those 
situated near active or extinct volcanoes. Calabria has been rav- 
aged by them from one extreme to the other. Sicily and Naples 



^»> 



448 TOT AGS OP THE POTOMAC. [December, 

aie subject to them ; and the force of the shocks depends oh the 
length of time that may haTC elapsed since the eruption preceding 
took place, in the neighbouring volcanoes. The cause of this 
energy in the shocks is supposed to be dependant on the thickness 
which the crust of cold and solid lava has obtained, and the re- 
sistance required to oTcrcome it. 

One of the most remarkable earthquakes in Portugal, which 
took place in seventeen hundred and fifty-five, suddenly destroyed 
the city of Lisbon ; and in the course of six minutes crushed 
more than sixty thousand persons to death. The quay, con- 
structed of solid marble, sunk down into an enormous chasm, 
bearing with it all the crowd of people who had assembled upon 
it to save themselves from their falling houses. The sea now 
stands one hundred fathoms deep over this spot. 

There is no country on the surface of the globe more subject 
to earthquakes than South America, especially on its western 
coast, at the base of those gigantic mountains which extend 
through the country from north to south, and closely approximate 
the Pacific Ocean. Peru has been most frequently visited by 
these convulsions ; and its capital, Lima, has been often shaken 
to its foundations. The great earthquake of seventeen hundred 
and forty-six entirely overturned that city, and crushed many of its 
inhabitants beneath the ruins of their houses. 

But the daring energy of man again rebuilt the city, which, al- 
though now better calculated to withstand the shocks of the un- 
dulating earth, is still frequently in part laid in ruins ; and the in- 
habitants rush from their homes, and seek refuge in the open plain, 
from their tottering tenements, which threaten to crush them be- 
neath their walls. 

It is surprising to observe how far the human mind can accus- 
tom itself to dangers, however imminent, and people can sleep 
with a feeling of security, when in a moment their dwellings may 
be tumbled in ruins over their heads, — their houses serving them 
for tombs. The people who dwell on the flanks of Vesuvius, 
Etna, or TeneriflFe, have become so accustomed to volcanic phe- 
nomena, that they view them with little apprehension, although 
history, as well as their own observation and experience, shows 
them on what a treacherous soil they live : they still live on, ap- 
parently unmindful of their danger ; and when their houses are 



i 

I 



1883.] EARTHQUAKES. 449 

overturned by an earthquake, or their vineyards are overwheUned 
by lava, showers of stone, or volcanic ashes, they return to the 
very spot, rebuild their fallen houses, and cultivate the new vol- 
canic soil, which in time repays their labour by an abundant har- 
vest or vintage. 

So in Lima, earthquakes are of such frequent occurrence, that 
tlie ordinary ones excite alarm but for the moment among the in- 
habitants. There have been, however, commotions of such vio- 
lence as to overturn extensive districts, and to destroy whole 
cities, burying their inhabitants in their ruins. In the course of 
one hundred and twelve days, the city of Lima experienced no 
less than four hundred and thirty earthquakes. 

The history of that event, and the suflferings of the people, are 
recorded by Father Eusebio, who was not only an eyewitness 
of the scene, but a sufferer in the catastrophe. We may readily 
excuse Eusebio for giving free vent to his feelings, in descri- 
bing such a mournful spectacle, as the horror of the tragedy must 
have unfitted him for critical observations on the natural phenom- 
ena of such an event, and fixed his attention chiefly on human 
suffering. Notwithstanding the lapse of almost a century, the 
account of Eusebio contains a freshness and interest which we 
do not remember ever to have seen given in any account of this 
wonderful event ; and such portions as our limits will permit, 
cannot fail of being highly interesting to our readers. 

It was on the night of the twenty-eighth October, in the 
year seventeen hundred and forty-six, while the churches in 
Lima were celebrating, with great pomp and holy zeal, the fes- 
tivity of those two apostolic saints, Simon and Judas (not Is- 
cariot) — a night when the moon seemed blending only benevo- 
lence and loveliness in the brightness of her beams — it was on 
such a night, and on such an occasion, that the dreadful tragedy 
occurred alluded to above. Beneath that beauty and brightness 
were concealed deception and ruin ! The heavens were serene, 
the ocean was tranquil, and the earth slept in quiet; — ^but it 
was the awful stillness which precedes the earthquake's birth. 

It was at half past ten at night, five hours and forty-five miop 
utes before the full moon ; when a sudden and terrible concussion 
of the earth took place, as if the subterranean caverns were bro- 
ken up, and the elements of water, and fire, and air, were bursting 

Ff 



450 voYAGB OF THB POTOMAC. [December, 

forth ; each, in its violence, struggling to destroy thaC which had 
been spared from the voracity of the other ! 

Nothing was able to resist an impulse so sudden and so terri- 
ble, where the small as well as the great edifices of the city 
served only for the sepulchres of many of the inhabitants ; and 
where those who were arrested by fright, or unmindful of the 
event, were crushed by the falling houses, or suffocated by the 
dust which arose from their ruins ! 

The duration of this first and terrible movement of the earth 
lasted a little more than three minutes ; but that time, though 
short, was sufficient for the destruction of what had cost the la- 
bour of two hundred and eleven years in the construction ! Mag- 
nificent temples and sumptuous palaces— edifices of the most 
splendid and costly character — ^were timibled into heaps of pro- 
miscuous ruins! 

The following day dawned on inmieasurable sorrow. Here 
was the father grieving for his son ; — ^there, the son mourning for 
the loss of his mother ! Relations lamenting the death of their 
kindred, and firiends weeping for the destruction of their friends 
and acquaintances ! All was consternation — all lamentation ! 
Men talked — ^but their words conveyed no meaning; their thoughts 
and feelings were read in their looks ! Volumes of grief were 
expressed in convulsive sighs ! Indeed, it was not a life which 
they lived — but worse than death which ihey suffered. Devotion 
alone found a seat in their hearts, directing their prayers in fervour 
and in silence to the Most High ! 

The streets were little else than mountains of earth and rub- 
bish, impeding the movements of the inhabitants, and causing the 
greatest fatigue to those who attempted to pass. In many places 
they were inaccessible and insurmountable ; — so much so, that in 
the most approachable of the different squares, it was impossible 
to distinguish the paths and the most familiar situations; and 
such was the wilderness of ruins around, that one house could 
scarcely be distinguished from another. 

The consternation continued — every moment augmenting in 
horror, from the incessant repetition of shocks, which amounted 
to nearly two hundred in twenty-four hours — from half past ten 
o'clock on Friday evening, until the same hour on Saturday — when 
the inhabitants passed out into the free air of the Plazas Cam^ 



\ 






J 



• ■ 



1SB2.] EARTHQUAKES. 401 

panas (open places), expecting no less, at every concussion of the 
earth, than a mournful termination of their existence. And well 
might they think so ; as not only the moon, and the spangled fir- 
mament in which she rode, were suddenly obscured, but the at- 
mosphere thickened with the heavy volimie of dust, thrown off 
by the continued and terrible movements of the earth ! 

The morning of the thurtieth arrived, adding sorrow to sorrow, 
and grief to grief ! At four in the afternoon the whole city was 
again thrown into consternation, at the appalling news that the 
ocean was bursting from its confines — had overleaped its bounds — 
and was rolling in with such power as soon to overwhelm and de- 
stroy every thing that had life in the city ! Here language must 
fail ; nor can the most vivid imagination conceive the confusion of 
the terror-stricken inhabitants of Lima ! Who can wonder, if many 
of them thought the day of doom was at hand ? The moon and 
stars obscured ! — earthquakes in quick succession ! — " distress 
and perplexity ! — the sea and waves roaring ! — men's hearts fail- 
ing them for fear !"* 

One tumultuous and simultaneous rush was made for the neigh- 
bouring mountains, with the hope of finding on their summits 
some safety from the approaching waters ! The crowd moved 
on, some shouting in wild and unnatural accents, and others seek- 
ing among those whom they met for priests, to whom they might 
confess their sins, and from whom they might receive absolution 
for their souls ! Indeed, every mortal in the city appeared to be 
an actor in the general tragedy ! The nuns and biatas^ and las 
Esposas de Jesu Christo^ accustomed to live in retirement within 
the cells of their cloisters — were seen leaving the ruins of their 
convents, and, with the multitude, seeking in flight seciuity for 
their lives ! 

Until after five o'clock in the evening, did the flight and con- 
sternation of the citizens continue ; when it became known that 
the sea was still confined within its usual boundaries. But no 
one can be surprised that the population should have believed the 
report of its heaving in ; not only because evil news seldom proves 
false, but on account of the recent destruction of the castle of 
Callao, and that of its inhabitants, by the waves of the sea, only 

* Luke zxi. 36. 
Ff 2 



4M 



fOTAOB <nP T^ POTOMAC. 



[Deccttber, 



two leagaes distant ; and which happened on the night of the 
fint eardiquake, as will be seen in the seqnel. 

On the first ni^t of the earthquake, a woman with a chfld» only 
a few months old, was left buried beneath the mins of an edifice, 
where die remained in secnrity ; and, four days afkerwaid, was 
taken out free from injury, and her child living. The latter had 
derived subsistence from the breast of its mother, whose exist- 
ence was thus preserved, as Eusebio prefers to call it, by a 
'••miracle." 

On the thirtieth, new afflictions threatened the city from the 
odour of the jmburied dead, of whom,, at this time, there were 
probably more than thirteen hundred lying mangled and moulder- 
ing amid the ruins, and impregnating the air with worse than 
pestilence ! As companions in these charnel-houses of the dead, 
might be found horses, and mules, aiyl dogs — all kinds of domestic 
anhnals, which had experienced the fate of their owners, and con- 
tributed greatly to fill the air with the most offensive exhalations ! 
Added to these were a multitude of men, and women, and chil- 
dren, thrown into the streets, and squares, and gardens — some 
without -arms — others vrithout legs, and severely wounded— odi- 
ers beyond the reach of aid, finishing their lives in.firuitless lamen- 
tations, and feeling the only cure for their sufferings to be in 
death ! 

Prostrated as was the city by these unparalleled sufferings, it 
was doomed still farther to endure a partial famine, through the 
destruction of edifices, of mills, and ovens, and every building 
connected with the manufacture of bread ; while provisions of all 
kinds were buried in the general ruins. People of all classes 
were doomed to suffer from hunger, before repairs could be made 
and their wants supplied ! 

Eusebio dwells, in terms of the severest reprehension, on the 
conduct of those who could practise extortions on the wants and 
necessities of their fellow-citizens at such a time ! when gold, 
and silver, and pearls, and precious stones, were given to these 
infamous usurers for food for a few days, which in other times 
would have procured abundance for more than a year ! 

llus terminated October, that month so unfortunate to the 
inhabitants of Lima. November presented, on the first night, the 
heavens bespangled with stars, which had been obscured for some 



1832.] BUITHQUAKB8. 453 

time before by clouds — dense and heavy vapours. But notwith- 
standing the favourable aspect of the weather, an earthquake was 
felt on that day, difierent from any that had preceded it. 

The earth seemed to sink down, without moving violently from 
one side to the other — again to move itself, without materially 
altering its position ; wanting the soimds and concussions of the 
other movements, it seemed as if it were swimming in some liquid 
element ! This new movement occasioned the greatest conster- 
nation among the inhabitants, as they feared that the earth waa 
about to open its deep caverns and swallow them up ; as is said 
in Tacitus to have been the fate of several cities in Africa. 

This motion is a species of earthquake which may be called 
inclination — it being similar to that of a ship when exposed to 
the movements of the waves of the ocean. The subterranean 
winds being collected into a tempest, such earthquakes are likely 
to biurst forth with great violence, as was actually the case near 
Callao, where a considerable portion of earth was cast off to some 
distance on the plains. A similar phenomenon is said to hare 
happened at New Granada. 

At ten o'clock on the same night the clouds yielded a light 
rain, which continued falling until seven o'clock on the morning 
of the following day. It seemed as if this rain had opened the 
subterranean channels and pores with such rapid movement, that 
currents of exhalations, their particles mixed with nitric, sulphu- 
reous, and oleaginous substances, having been cooled and con- 
densed into malignant drops, returned to seek their place again 
in the centre of the earth ; destroying the vegetation of the fields, 
consuming the labours of the husbandman, and leaving the inhab- 
itants to breathe a pestiferous air — while they were exposed to 
colds, pleurisies, and dropsies, such as occurred in Lima after the 
great earthquake which happened in the year sixteen hundred 
and eighty-seven. At four o'clock in the morning a severe shock 
was felt — at seven o'clock another occurred, which finished the 
destruction that the first only fairly begun ! The poet Peralta, in 
his " Lima Fundada," has the following poetical allusion to these 
two shocks : — 

" Dan el orbe mayor baylen segundo, 
Y acabaru quanto dezo el primero : 
No Fabricas, la Fabrica del mundo— 
Teme al impulso vicilar serero : 



454 TOT AGS OF THB POTOMAC. [December, 

No Us ruinas, el seno ti profundo 
De la Tierra le amaga horror postrero ; 
Pues rompiendose en abras, podra creerse ; 
Que yk hasta el mismo suelo va a caerse." 

On the second of the month, the first news from the surround- 
ing country was receiTed in Lima, from which it would appear, 
that in some places the soimd was not heard ; in others, the shock 
but lightly felt ; and others again suffered a total ruin, in common 
with the capital. From the twenty-eighth of October, at half 
past ten at night, until the first of November, the earth shook two 
hundred and twenty times ; and from the first to the tenth, there 
were no less than forty-six more distinct movements ! 

But notwithstanding this almost incessant motion or trembling 
of the earth beneath the city, the minds of men had gradually as- 
sumed more composure ; for though the danger was not less, it 
had become in a degree familiar to the people. The Ctdnldo, or 
City Council, resumed its meetings, and began to take the most 
active measures for the restoration of order, and for repairing the 
damages done to the city. The hydrographer to the vice-king 
was called on to giTO his plans and opinions as to the rebuilding 
of the edifices of the city ; and the report of the engineer was 
highly extolled. He maintained that the country would not per- 
mit the erection of elevated or heavy buildings ; that the tem- 
ples, and palaces, and tribunals of justice, should be built with 
strict reference to the trials they might have lo encounter ; that 
balconies, galleries, arches, and towers, should be discontinued, 
as altogether unadapted to the country. 

We know not if it were then recommended for the first time, 
but certainly it has now gained general use : the dwelling-houses 
in a great measure are more insulated from each other, with an 
open square in the centre, as a place of retreat and security to the 
inhabitants from the falling of the materials around them. 

From the tenth to the twenty-eighth, no less than seventy-four 
distinct shocks were felt, some being very heavy, and others quite 
light. Including the first days of the month, this calculation gives 
one hundred and twelve distinct vibrations, happening at intervals 
more or less distant from each other! How wonderful — how in- 
exhaustibly great must be the combustible materials confined in 
the deep caverns beneath this country ! 



I 



k 



I- 

• J'' 



1882.] EARTHQUAKES. 45ft 

On this night, the twenty-eighth, at about eleven o'clock, the 
greater portion of the inhabitants of Lima were /igain thrown 
into commotion, by tlie repetition of the news thdt the sea was 
bursting again from its boundaries ! It is certain that so heavy 
was the sound of the waves, as they lashed the shore, it might 
well have been apprehended as an inundation and overflowing of 
the sea ! 

Unfortunate Lima ! The elements seemed leagued for her de* 
struction ! — for at twelve o'clock, while the flight, confusion, and 
consternation still reigned, the windows of the clouds were thrown 
open, and the rain descended in such torrents, for the space of a 
quarter of an hour, that, had it continued, it mmt have completed 
the destruction already but too &r advanced by the feverish throes 
of the earth. At four o'clock in the afternoon, on the thirtieth, the 
earth shook. On the same night, from seven o'clock to forty-five 
minutes past nine, a light rain fell, of a quality so rare that it acted 
as a caustic on every thing sensitive which it touched ! — burning up 
the green pastures like a consiuning fire, and causing among the in- 
habitants sickness and disease. At twelve o'clock at night the wind 
blew strong from the north ; and increased with such violence, that 
it seemed as if it would bear off houses and mortals in its fierce em- 
brace ! This effect, and the bad qualities which impregnated the 
air, arose from the infection of vapours issuing from the pores of 
the earth ! On the second of December, at three in the afternoon, 
from the Dominican church moved a large procession, with the 
image of Rosario and Santo Rosa Peruana; all of which were 
borne by the venerable community of religionists, and by a great 
many penitents of both sexes ; and following these the greater part 
of the ladies of Lima, singing in voices so plaintive, so touching, 
and so sweet, that it appeared like a holy emulation among this illus- 
trious band. Some with hair cut, feet bare, and besprinkled with 
ashes, who, in other times, might have been seen decked with 
much splendour in the magnificence of their equipage, were now 
dressed in coarse woollens, and in the public streets, to be seen 
asking pardon for their transgressions ; and, in fervent prayer, im- 
ploring Heaven to spare their devoted city ! 

On the sixth, the earth trembled at four o'clock in the morning, 
when it began to rain, and continued until six ; which produced a 
general catarrh and coughs, and, moreover, innumerable quantities ; 



456 TOTAGE OF THE POTOMAC. [December, 

of tormenting insects ! Tlie whole day was obscure and tempes- 
tuous; but thg night was serene and clear, wanting only the ap- 
pearance of the stars ; which, however, are but seldom seen at 
this season. On the eighth, a very tempestuous and dark day — 
the earth had three great moyements; the first, at two in the 
afternoon; at three and three quarters, another; and at four 
o'clock and six minutes the other, and the last during the day. 
As with December terminated the fatal year of seventeen hundred 
and forty-six, so with January commenced one still to be dreaded. 
On the first, every thing was quiet ; the earth still wore its general 
and natural appearance ; though this was in fact a mere truce be- 
fore the renewal of convulsions about to take place ; as on the 
se<:ond, at about twelve o'clock in the day, there was a shock so 
sudden and so violent, that it might have produced anew the ruin 
and destruction of the past, had its duration continued for a few 
seconds longer. 

Amid the general excitement of this and the following days, 
the vice-king still thought of human glory; and in the ruined cas- 
tle of Callao, at seven in the morning of the sixteenth, laid the 
foundation of a work of the Pentagon, according to the plan 
which had been marked out by the royal hydrographer. During 
this day, also, there was a voice abroad, that the fire of heaven 
was about to consume what the movements of the earth had left 
uninjured. The fright appears to have been terrible ; depriving 
some of their lives, others of their reason, and affecting the re- 
mainder witli such fears of a fatal calamity, that some expected a 
Vesuvius to overwhelm them — and others, to be consumed by 
the bursting forth of a new Etna ! 

** Scrd el Cielo un Abysmo levanlado, 

En que las negras Nubcs iinininontes, 
Pareccran al Orbe constemado 

Volaiilos Etnas, TiVparis j)ondicntes ; 
Caoran luego de un Cielo iiuajj;iuado 

Falsas rovelaliones, tan fre«iucntcs. 
Que Cometas se haran aprehondidos, 
Mas eficaccs mientras man fingidos." 

From the seventh to the twentieth, the earth shook at eight 
different times, attended with sulpliuroous exhalations. On the i 

twenty-first, a trembling was fell at half past one in the mom- 






tf 



1832.J 



EARTHQUAKES. 



457 



mg\ the heavens became obscure, cloaking the neighbouring hills 
and mountains, nor did the day recover its brightness until two 
in the afternoon, when the clouds passed away, but not until a 
heavy dew had fallen for the space of two hours — ^which would 
not have been a small matter in moistening the earth, had the 
rains not already sufficiently saturated the hills of Chapa, los 
Zoros, Cabeza de Baca, las Minas, Pena Pobre, Mata Covallos, 
y las Laderas de Arce — which overlook the valley of Guanchi 
Guaylas — an irregular event, at a time when the sun is most 
powerful ; nor did the wind moderate in its force or in its heat, 
though it passed over the summits of the Cordilleras ; but de- 
stroyed the vegetation and consumed the productions of the earth ! 

The twenty-sixth was in all respects favourable. On the twenty- 
seventh, an earthquake was felt at three quarters past one A. M., 
and at ten in the day. The alarming sounds which were supposed 
to accompany the earthquakes, were found to be nothing but re- 
peated claps of thunder from among the neighbouring mountains. 
A thing so unusual as heavy thimder at Lima, tended to confirm 
the general impression, that these repeated sounds came from the 
earth ; and the result was, an imusual degree of terror and dismay 
throughout the whole city. 

There had now been experienced in Lima, in the space of one 
hundred and twelve days, commencing on the twenty-eighth of 
October, seventeen hundred and forty-six, and terminating on the 
sixteenth of February, seventeen hundred and forty-seven, the 
astonishing number of four hundred and thirty earthquakes^ the 
occurrence of which have been observed with the greatest care 
and accuracy.* 

* A Tabular Exhibit of the aeveral Shocka which followed the Cheat Earthquake of 
October 28, 1746, at Lima, from that date to February 16, 1747. 



1746. 
Oct. 28. The great earthquake : half past 
10 at night. ' 

29. Continued shocks. Nearly 200 

by half past 10 at night. 

30. Shocks incessant. Fear of a 

breaking in of the sea. 
31.;Do. do. 

Not. 1. Inclination earthquake. Night 
preceding, rainy. 
2-10.1 Forty-six distinct movements. 
10-28.' Seventy-four distinct shocks. 



Oct. 29 

30. 

Dec. 1. 
2-6. 

6. 

7. 

8. 



Three shocks. Great wind, and 
motion of the sea. 

Shock. Rain at night, wither- 
ing and sickening. 

Earth quiet and air serene. 

Clear and still. Shock at 12 at 
night of 5th. 

Shock. Rainy. Day stormy^- 
night serene. 

Do. do. 

Throe great shocks. Tempes* 
tuous. 



* 4 



458 



TOTAGB «V THS POTOMAC. 



[Decendber, 



On the night of the great earthquake, as was afterward learned 
by letter a volcano burst forth in Lucanas, which inundated tiw 
tops of the mountains and the valley below with floods of boiling 
water. In the mountains del Cerro de la Sal, there were also im* 
mense effects produced by this volcano. Some days before the 
earthquake, there were heard subterranean sounds, like the 
lowing of immense herds of cattle ; which occasionally changed, 
and seemed like those resembling repeated discharges of heavy 



1746.: 




Jan. 12. 


Shocks. 


Pec. 9. 


Quiet. 


13. 


Do. 


10. 


Two shocks. 


14. 


Do. 


11. 


Quiet. 


15. 


Do., and rainy. 


12. 


Violent shock. 


16. 


Three shocks. 


13. 


Two shocks— slight. 


17. 


Two shocks. 


U. 


Quiet, but rainy. 


18. 


Do., and heayy vrind. 


15. 


Various shocks. Night yery se- 


19. 


Quiet. 




rene. 


20. 


Shocks at early moming, but 


16, 17. 


Quiet. 




quiet day. 


18. 


Shock at night. 


21. 


One shock. 


19. 


Shock in the afternoon. 


22. 


Quiet, but gloomy air. 


20. 


Shocks early in the morning. 


23. 


Quiet 


21. 


Three shocks. 


24. 


Slight shock. 


22. 


Two shocks. 


85. 


Do. 


23. 


One shock. 


26. 


Quiet. 


t^. 


One shock. 


27. 


Shocks, with sounds of thmidMr. 


25. 


Three shocks. 


28. 


Shock. 


26. 


One shock. 


29. 


Quiet. 


27. 


One shock — night extremely 


30. 


Ten shocks. 




rainy. 


31. 


Two shocks. 


28. 


One shock. 


Feb. 1. 


Three shocks. 


30. 


Three shocks — two severe. 


3. 


Quiet. 


31. 


One shock. 


4. 


Shocks. 


1747. 




5. 


Shocks, with hii?h wind. 


Jan. 1. 


Quiet. 


6. 


Do. 


2. 


Shocks violent. 


7. 


Do. 


3. 


Shocks, and rainy. 


8. 


Quiet. 


4. 


Two shocks. 


9. 


Shocks, with tempest. 


6. 


Quiet, but heavy rains. 


10. 


Do. 


6. 


Shocks heavy. 


11. 


Do., with thick clouds. 


7. 


Do. do. 


12. 


Quiet. Public religious senricaa. 


8. 


Shocks. 


13. 


Quiet. 


9. 


Do. 


14. 


One slight shock. 


10. 


Do. 


15. 


Quiet. 


11. 


Do. 


16. 


Do. 



This Table gives to each month as follows : — 

Months. Days. Earthquakes. 

October 4 220 

November 30 113 

December 31 40 

January 31 33 

February 16 24 

112 480 



»"«. 









wT' 



V 



189ff.] XARTir^iidiV; 459 

.f 

irtillery. These plienomena have- also been obserred, frerious 
to great earthquakes, in other parts of the world. ^ 

A short time after the earthquakes, more than two lihousand of 
the inhabitants of Lima died of the epidemic scarlet feTcr, pleu- 
ritic pains, and liver complaints ; the same diseases which were ex- 
perienced after the earthquake of sixteen hundred and eighty-seven. 

At the same hour that the earthquake was felt in Lima, it was 
experienced in Callao ; overwhelming, consuming, and destro]|(* 
ing every thing within its reach. There was not an edifice left 
in the place — not a street that was not filled by the relics of the 
ruin ! Many of the walls and porticoes seemed to resist the first 
movements of the earth ; but they could not withstand the over- 
whelming force of the ocean, which came pouring in with mad- 
dening fury, piled up in mountainous waves, and destroying every 
thing which the earthquake had spared ! Recoiling, as if to 
gather new power, it again rushed forward, still more elevated, 
firom the increased vibrations of the earth, overthrowing castel- 
lated walls and turrets, which wealth in its pride had erected ; 
tearing them up firom their deep foundations, and burying them 
in the dark caverns beneath, leaving scarce a mournful record \j\ 
show that \ere was once a garrison of soldiers f 

Of four thousand eight hundred inhabitants who resided in 
Callao, the lives of little more than two hundred were spared. Of 
these, twenty-two were saved on the bastion of a rampart, which 
was formerly called the strength of Santa Cruz, Of the rest, 
some were thrown upon the Island of San Lorenzo, situated two 
leagues from the castle of Callao ; others on different beaches 
and forts ! 

At the same time the sea overwhelmed Callao, it destroyed 
many other places on the coast. Pisco suffered again, in like 
manner as it had done in the previous great earthquake, which 
happened on the twentieth October, sixteen hundred and eighty- 
seven ; and was thus alluded to by the poet : — 

'* El man furioso salle, 
Sin que el impulso sufra/* &c. 

The sea also covered the road called Perdices, and destroyed 
every thing found in it, overwhelming in its waves whole cargoes, 



y •.^*^ 



% 



.*' 



460 TOTAGB OF THE POTOMAC. [December, 

litters, and mules and muleteers, in the extent of tlie pass called 
Salinas d^ Guaura. 

But the most affecting of all the sights was presented by the 
shore, along which the sea was constantly throwing up dead 
bodies on every successive wave. There also were seen frag- 
ments of dead bodies, which the terrible action of the sea, and 
the materials commingUng with the waters, had separated in the 
most shocking manner. 

Of the twenty-three ships, large and small, which were an- 
chored in the port, there were foundered nineteen ; and as they 
were diiven over the town, their anchors caught in the houses, 
dragging parts of them along to where all were dashed to pieces, 
far up the road to Lima ! The ships-of-war San Fermin, el San 
Antonio, el Michelot, and the Succoro, shared the general fate ! 
The spot to which the San Fermin was driven is pointed out at 
the present day, and is designated by the erection of a cross, a 
little to the right of the road which leads to Lima, and about half 
a mile from the beach ! 

By inspecting the records of that period it has been ascertained, 
that on the same night, and but a short time before the shock was 
felt in Lima and Callao, the sea rose and extended in about six 
hundred yards from its usual boundary at Conception, latitude 
37" south, in Chili. A few days before this, a hot and scorching 
wind was felt in Santiago, which seemed to wither and consume 
every thing over which it passed. 

What a field is here presented for philosophical speculation ! 
Is the whole range of South America, west of the Andes, resting 
on and slumbering over unfathomable caverns of combustible ma- 
terials? And are not these connected beneath? — or how else 
could they communicate with each other, with almost the same 
rapidity that sound passes through the air ? 

It has been ascertained, that the phenomena of earthquakes 
are more frequent between the spring and summer; and that 
when they do happen during other portions of the year, they are 
most frequent in autumn. The hours are generally those of dark- 
ness ; two or three hours after sunset ; or at ihe close of the zo- 
diacal light ; but perhaps more frequently about the first dawn 
of day. 



i 



1832.] BARTHQUAKSS, 461 

The direction which earthquakes pursue is firooil south to north, 
along the chains of the Cordilleras. 

Mournful experience has shown, that the most violent conces- 
sions occur after an interval of about half a century, in that region 
included between the equator and the tropic of Capricorn ; and 
which seem to follow a certain order, from the extremes to the 
centre. These are the periods which have marked the great 
earthquakes experienced since the conquest of Quito, Ariquipa, 
and Lima. The fatal period had arrived at the end of the last 
century ; and Ariquipa and the provinces of Quito were laid in 
ruins. Lima had passed the fatal period which naturer^appears 
to have established, but suffered in the year eighteen hundred and 
twenty-eight. 

The great earthquakes have generally been preceded by copi- 
ous rains ; the earth becoming saturated, the water penetrates into 
the interior. Hot days succeeding to these wet ones, necessarily 
form an enormous quantity of vapour, which, not being able to 
escape, or become rarefied beneath the surface of the globe, is 
exposed to the electric shock, or to become ignited from the vol- 
canoes ; when, acquiring greater expansion, it produces those 
violent convulsions of the earth, which in their effects are so ter- 
rific. Obscure exhalations rise from the earth at night, clothing 
the heavens and the stars with the most sombre pall ! 

The frequency of the earthquakes in the spring is deemed a 
good sign; as it shows the combustibles beneath are wastmg 
their strength by degrees. But if these concussions are very fre- 
quent, following each other in quick succession, they indicate a 
large quantity of combustible matter, from which a violent shock 
may at any moment be expected. 

Vegetation suffers much in these gloomy epochs. The earth- 
quake of sixteen hundred and seventy-eight rendered an inunense 
proportion of the soil of Peru incapable of producing wheat. The 
stalks grew luxuriantly until the head began to form, when the 
grains became affected with rust, which converted the substance 
into a black powder, and the crop was destroyed. Twenty years 
did not restore the soil to its former productiveness. Indeed, the 
injury to the agriculture of the country was fatal- In this scar- 
city, recourse was had to Chili for wheat, and that country soon 




.• 



462 voTAQE OF THE POTOMAC. [Marcli, 

became the Sicily of Peru» to the destruction of its own agricul- 
tural interests ! 

We have devoted a long chapter to the earthquake of seventeen 
hundred and forty-six. The subject seemed to us as one of great 
interest, in which the reader cannot fail to participate with us, 
when he reflects that our goodly frigate now lay at anchor in the 
same port where the catastrophe occurred ; that here *' the sure 
and firm set earth** reeled to and fro as a dnmken man ; that the 
waters of the great deep burst from their limits, overwhehning 
and destroying a whole people, whose ruined edifices still lie par- 
tially visible, amid heaps of sand, over which we have often walked ; 
and that, though tranquil now, no human being can foresee, or 
human power prevent) at any moment, the recuirence of another 
and similar tragedy; that here, among a people not devoid of 
superstition, as the anniversary of the twenty-eighth of October 
rolls roimd, a numerous procession moves through the streets of 
Callao, bearing and escorting the image of old Neptune, as figured 
by mythologists, with a long and flowing beard, a cro¥m on his 
head, enriched and bespangled with the gems of the ocean, the 
three-forked sceptre in his hand, and supported on each side by a 
Triton, bearing anchors in theirs. Moving along, to the anima- 
ting strains of music, this pageantry attracts universal attention, 
and formerly excited the most thrilling interest. The house-tops 
are lined with spectators, who cannot avoid the reflection, that 
over other edifices of equal elevation, on that day eighty-odd 
years ago, had passed heavy men-of-war, bome^ on the swelling 
surges of the ocean ! 

The procession moves to the water's edge, and the old sea-god 
is made to smite the ocean with his trident; while the Most 
High, " who holds the ocean in the hollow of his hand," is im- 
plored never to permit the ocean again to pass beyond its present 
bounds ! 

Turn we again to our goodly ship, which had now been com- 
pletely overhauled and painted anew. The Falmouth had been 
despatched to the ports of the north, and the Dolphin was actively 
employed. The interests of the station required the presence of 
the commodore in Valparaiso ; and on the fifteenth of March, the 



1833.] PORTS OF CHILI. 463. 

Potomac lay snugly at anchor in that port. On our return to the 
north we made Coquimbo in the way, where we lay more than 
a month in ^arantine, all hands being inoculated with the small- -^^ 
pox.* The commodore during this time remained at Coquimbo, 
a town founded by Yaldivia, in fifteen hundred and forty-four, 
and about three leagues from the port. The purser, Slacum, 
also remained on shore, to look out for the fresh provisions of the 
ship ; which was now canopied with an awning, the decks sanded, 
and in all respects turned into a great fighting hospital. 

The port of Coquimibo, in latitude 30* south, longitude 71* 16' 
west, is among the very best on the coast ; the water shoaling 
gradually, so that anchorage may be selected at pleasure on the 
southwest side. The hilb around are bairen and rocky, while to 
the east, the towering snow-crowned Andee overlook the whole 
country. For three years had this province sufiered with drought ; 
vegetation had dried up, and the loss of animals had been im- 
mense. But while we lay here, the aerial cisterns were opened, 
and the rain descended in torrents. Numerous bonfires soon 
proclaimed the joy of the inhabitants, and shouts of gratitude 
were heard firom every side, for the good that had been showered 
upon them. Vegetation, with astonishing rapidity, sprang up, 
and the hills and surrounding country were soon re-clothed iii^ 
green. 

Leaving Coquimbo on the ninth, we arrived at Callao on the 
fifteenth July. Between the commanders and officers of the 
English and French men-of-war, such interchange of civilities 
took place as should always mark the intercourse of free na- 
tions, who, in spite of national predilection, have in truth so much 
cause to jrespect each other. 

The time had now come for the return of the Falmouth to the 
United States ; and Captain Gregory having received his orders 
on this point from the commodore, and the Dolphin being sta- 
tioned in the port to look out for our interests during the present 
disturbed state of Peru, on the twenty-second of August we set 
sail for the ports of the north, intending to go as far as the Gala- 
pagos Islands, making Payta in our way. 

* See Report of IJr. Folti — Appendix. 



464 VOYAGE OF THE POTOMAC. [September, 



• 



* 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

Galapagos Islands — Charles's Island, or La Floriana — Governor Vilamil^s Colony 
— Its origin and adyance— Description of the island — Its productions — Pure and 
wholesome water — Prohibition of spirituous liquors — Fowls, tcrapins, &c. — 
Climate and temperature— Abuses connected with our whale-fisheries — ImproYe- 
ments and reforms suggested. 

On Monday, the twenty-sixth of August, we sailed from Payla 
for the Galapagos, and arrived at Charles's Island on the thirty- 
first. We came to anchor in Essex Bay, on the north end of the 
island, a place rendered somewhat famous as the anchorage of 
the old Essex, Commodore Porter, during the late war with 
Great Britain. Commodore Downes was then first lieutenant of 
that frigate, but commanded an armed prize, called the Essex, 
junior, during Porter's glorious but unfortimate action with the 
Phcebe and Cherub. We remained at Charles's Island, which 
the new colonists call La Floriana, for the period of ten or twelve 
days ; and every one on board was agreeably disappointed with 
the visit. 

During the frigate's stay, we passed the time very pleasantly at 
the residence of Governor J. Vilamil, a native of Louisiana, in 
the United States, but for many years a resident of Guayaquil. 
Believing that some account of this infant establishment may be 
interesting to the reader, wc shall particularly allude to it, in a 
very short and hasty description of the Galapagos Islands. 

This, in some respects, interesting group, which comprises a 
large number of small islands, is situated nearly under the equa- 
tor, between the eighty-ninth and ninety-second degrees of west 
longitude — about two hundred and forty leagues west of the 
American continent. A majority of these islands are situated a 
little south of the equinoctial line, though a few scattering islands 
are found north of it. Albemarle Island, which is the largest of 
the cluster, is more than seventy miles in length, and stretches 
north and south, with an eastern coast that is nearly straight ; but 
its western side is deeply concave, embracing the volcanic Island 



1833.] 0ALAPA008 I8LANIMI. 405 

of Narborough. The north head of Albemarle terminates west- 
wardly in Cape Berkley^ which is exactly on the line. South 
and east of Albemarle are Charles's Island, Hood's, Chatham's, 
Barrington's, Downes's, Porter's, and James's Islands. 

The name of this group is derived from the Spanish word 
galapagOt a fresh water tortoise ; and it was given to these islands 
because they abound with the largest class of these animals, 
a species of terapin, to wliich Commodore Porter has given the 
name of elephant tortoise, as their legs, feet, and clumsy move- 
ments strongly resemble those of the elephant. Their flesh is 
most excellent food, and they seem to have been placed here, in 
these lonely regions, for the sole purpose of refreshing the ad- 
venturous oiariner, whose hazardous calling is the pursuit of the 
great leviathan of the deep. Many of them weigh from three to 
four hundred pounds, and they will live in the hold of a vessel a 
remarkable length of time without sustenance, and still retain 
much of their original fatness and richness of flavour. Their 
drink is pure water, which they carry with them in a vessel pro- 
vided by nature for that purpose, containing about two gallons, 
which remains cool, fresh, and sweet for a long time after they 
are made prisoners. 

The hill-sides of these islands, near the shore, are covered 
with prickly pear-trees, upon which these terapin feed, and thrive 
in a most wonderful manner. These animals have doubtless saved 
the lives of many seamen employed in the whale-fisheries in those 
seas, who would otherwise have perished or suffered much with 
the scurvy. They sometimes take from six to nine hundred of 
the smallest of these tortoises on board, when about leaving the 
islands for their cruising grounds ; thus providing themselves with 
fresh and wholesome provisions for six or eight months, and se- 
curing the men from the attacks of scurvy. 

Charles's Island, or Floriana, at the northern end of which is 
Essex Bay, in which the Potomac lay at anchor, is about eighteen 
or twenty miles southeast of Cape Woodford, which projects 
from the south head of Albemarle Island. The centre of Charles's 
Island is in latitude 1* 17' south, longitude 90* SCX west; and is 
about twenty miles in length from north to south, and fifteen in 
breadth from east to west; giving a superficial area of naore than 



,- '^^ 



466 YOTAOS OF THB POTOMAC. [September, 

three hundred miles. Like every other island in the Galapagos 
group, it was uninhabited until eighteen hundred and thirty-two, 
when Vilamil first established his long-projected colony. He in- 
formed us that he had this enterprise in view as long ago as the 
year eighteen hundred and eleyen ; two years previous to the 
appearance of Commodore Porter in these seas, during the late 
war widi Great Britain. 

At this early period, the information which Vilamil had ac- 
quired of the Galapagos Islands was so interesting, that at one 
time he thought of applying to the government of Spain for per- 
mission to make a settlement on one of them ; but was deterred 
from this design, being assured by the Spanish authorities in 
Peru, that the court of Seville would never permit a settlement to 
be made on this group of islands. 

On the establishment of the government of Colombia, and its 
entire independence of the dominion of Spain, his attention was 
again turned to an enterprise he had had so long in contemplation. 
His friends at this time did every thing to dissuade him, pro- 
nouncing the plan to be chimerical and ra^. Though not entirely 
discouraged, he remained inactive until the year eighteen hundred 
and twenty, when he suffered severe misfortimes in his family, in 
the death of his wife and two children, in the short space of 
twenty-one days. Tired of society, and worn down with afflic- 
tions, he turned his whole mind and energies towards liis favourite 
scheme, — the establishment of a colony. The government of the 
equator was at once petitioned, and in the year eighteen hundred 
and thirty-one, a charter in due form was granted, conceding the 
possession of the islands, and authorizing the establishment of a 
colony. 

In January, eighteen hundred and thirty-two. Colonel Hernan- 
dez, with only twelve colonists, was despatched to take formal 
possession of Charles's Island ; and in April and June, settlers of 
both sexes followed the first. Vilamil, in person, accompanied 
by eighty colonists, arrived in October, and at once assumed his 
station as proprietor and governor of the island. Previous to his 
arrival, little or no improvement had been made ; but with this ac- 
cession, all took greater courage, and began to labour with much 
zeal ; more especially when they found that the whale-ships would 



1 
I 



1838.] OALAPA008 ISLANDS. 4^ 

be likely to consume their surplus produce ; and, taking all cir- 
cumstances into consideration, their labours have been really suo- 
cessful. Nor do we deem the remark extravagant, that at this 
time [September, eighteen hundred and thirty-three] the produc- 
tions of the island are sufficient for several hundred additional in- 
habitants ; and during the coming year, many of our whale-ships 
may receive an abimdance of vegetable supplies. 

This island is not fertile near the shore; for the space of 
three miles towards the interior, the soil i^ steril in the summer, 
or dry season ; but capable of yielding one good crop in the win- 
ter> or wet season ; and during the whole year, this portion of 
the island is good for raising hogs, goats, &c., as the groimd 
abounds with the carib-tree, the fruit of which, with the tree and 
juice of the prickly pear, form for these animals an excellent nu- 
triment. 

Penetrating towards the interior, there is a beautiful upland 
valley, spreading from northeast to southwest, in the form of a 
parallelogram, about five miles in length and three in breadth. 
From the middle of the valley, another opens to the southeast 
and inclines gradually to the south, and is nearly equal in ex- 
tent to the first. In both, the soil is of a superior mould, and is 
covered with a rich carpet of luxuriant vegetation, shrubbery, and 
trees. The formatioti of the island is exclusively volcanic; 
there is not a rock that does not bear the evidence of fire, and the 
soil, in all parts, is composed of the decomposition of lava and 
vegetable matter. 

Not only these valleys, but the sides of the higher mountains, 
may be cultivated from January to December, one crop following 
another in rapid succession ; moistened in sununer by contmued 
and heavy dews, and by rains in winter. From the black beach, 
the place of disembarcation, and so named from inunense quan^ 
tities of lava forming the shore, like massive pot-metal, the road, 
by continued ascent, leads to the main settlement, at the distance 
of about five miles ; and on the same road there is a fine spring 
of fresh water, which the governor contemplates conveying to the 
beach, where he believes it will yield seventy or eighty galloiM 
per hour, for the use of ships. 

The eastern skirts of the high hills produce the paja^ a long 
coarse grass, used by the inhabitants for covering their houses; 

og2 



468 TOYAGB OF THS POTOMAC. [September, 

and for which reason they have named it the Serra de la Paja. 
Here a fine view of the first valley is presented, and rising from 
the steril parts of the coast, the eye dwells with pleasure on the 
prospect, embracing no less than fifty little chacras^ or farms, with 
nearly an equal number of houses ; small and rude, it is true, yet 
not unfit for the climate, and surrounded with plenty, which the 
fertility of the soil produces at a small expense of labour on the 
part of man. 

On the southeastern extremity of the first valley, a magnificent 
volcanic mountain rises, around the summit of which, and others 
of less elevation, the clouds may be constantly seen gathering in 
mist, which impart to the higher portions of the island a degree 
of humidity not to be expected from a view of the coast, and cer- 
tainly in direct contradiction to all previous accounts given of this 
archipelago. 

From one side of this mountain the water, delicious, and of 
crystal purity, may be seen trickling down from the rocks. One 
of these destiladeras is a real curiosity. That part of the rock 
yielding most water, presents an exterior entirely dry, and is sur- 
rounded and clothed by shrubbery, fiowers, and aromatic herbs ; 
and the water, which issues by numerous little filtering streams, 
is as pure as that which gushed from the rock of old, when smit- 
ten by the rod of the prophet. 

The governor, who may with great justice be called the father 
and founder of the colony, has adopted, certainly, one wise meas- 
ure. He has prohibited, under the severest penalties, the intro- 
duction of all kinds of liquor into the island ; and this measure is 
no doubt the secret cause of the successful experiment already 
made by the Florianas. At a small parly given by the governor 
to Commodore Downes, water was the only beverage to be seen 
on the table. He apologized for the want of wine, and remarked, 
that he adopted it as a rule, not to partake of any luxury that 
policy required him to prohibit in the island ; which apology was 
deemed good by the commodore and all present. It was very 
easy, however, to perceive that our host had not spent his whole 
li£B in such society ; as the number and variety of the dishes 
brought to the table, formed exclusively of the productions of the 
island, would have done credit to the good taste of a person sur- 
rounded by many more advantages. 



18d3.] GALAPAGOS ISLANDS. 469 

In the valleys there have been found nine small lakes of sweet 
water, which fail not the whole year ; and others which dry up 
from August to October. In November they again commence 
filling with water. In these lakes are found many varieties of 
ducks, gallenetas del monte, and also one species of the snipe. 
Other lakes are also met with, near the ocean, of much greater 
extent ; but the water is brackish to the taste, and these abound 
with ducks and flamingoes. The number of doves on the island 
is almost incredible, and their flesh is sweet and very tender. 
They are so tame, that any number may be knocked over with a 
pole, without trouble. Nearly two hundred were brought on board 
by the men and officers of a single boat, from an aftemoon^s ex- 
cursion on shore ; and we have heard the governor, when sending 
out a servant to procure a few dozen for dinner, direct him to 
select only the fat ones ; and the boy went and did accordingly. 

The temperature x>i the island, from the end of May to Decem- 
ber, is from fifty-two to seventy-four degrees of Fahrenheit, which 
gives a medium of sixty-eight degrees, rendering woollen clothes 
the most agreeable. From January to the first of May, the ther- 
mometer stands from seventy-four to eighty-four degrees, giving 
a medium of seventy-nine degrees, and the heat is consequently 
rather oppressive. During the ten days we lay in Essex Bay, in 
September, the thermometer ranged from seventy-one to seventy- 
eight degrees in the shade, on board ship; and the barometer 
stood from 29*' 70' to 29" 78'. 

The climate we should deem healthy ; as during the nineteen 
months since the arrival of the first colonists, there have beeg: 
only five deaths. Three of these came sick from Guayaquil ; one 
died of a disease difficult to cure in any clime — that of eighty 
years of age ! and the fifth was shot, on account of an outrageous 
attack he had made on the life of the captain of an American 
whale-ship. This severity was of indispensable necessity in an 
establishment of so recent origin, and which can be sustained by 
moral force alone. It has done much to teach the colonists their 
true interests ; that peace among themselves, justice and good 
faith towards the vessels which may visit the islands for the pur- 
chase of their surplus produce, will alone promote their prosperity. 
At the present time, on the arrival of a whale-ship (which the 
Florianas call their ships), the whole settlement is filled with de- 







470 TOTAos OF THS P07t*oMAc. [September, 

light ; and the captains and crews, when on shore, often partici- 
pate in the labours and amusements of the inhabitants. 

It is easy to perceiye, that this island may at no distant day 
become a place of importance, at least to the whaling interests 
of the United States. By referring to this group of islands on 
the chart, it will be found to lie inmiediately in the neighbourhood 
of what is called the off-shore whaling ground ; indeed, to occupy 
the centre of a circle, around which the hardy wights of the har- 
poon are fishing up individual wealth, and adding to our national 
prosperity, by treasures procured from the depths of the sea. 

The freedom of the port, and the productions of the island, as 
well as the absence of all grog-shops, and that miserable gang of 
worthless keepers, who first intoxicate the sailor and afterward 
induce him to desert from his ship, seem strongly to recommend 
this place, at least to the trial of our whalers ; to say nothing of 
terapin, the best of all sea-stores, and which would almost repay 
the Toyage of an alderman to the South Sea.* 

The amount of tonnage and capital employed in the South Sea 
fisheries has so much augmented within a few years pajst, that 
the general impression in the United States is, that every thing 
connected with this great interest is going on prosperously and 
well. But such, unfortunately, is not the case. Abuses of the 
most serious nature not only exist, but are of daily occurrence in 
the whale fleet. The cause of some of these abuses can be cor- 
rected by the owners, and others can only be reached by the 
strong arm of our government. 

Our public vessels do all in their power to redress these disor- 
ders ; but, having the interests of an extensive coast to look after, 
are often distant firom the ports frequented by whalers. Hence 

* From the thirteenth of October, eighteen hundred and thirty-two, to the twen- 
tieth of August in the following year, thirty-one whale-ships touched, or were re- 
ported at La Floriana, with more than nineteen thousand barrels of oil. These ye*- 
■els were all from the United States, with the exception of two, and belonged to 
the following places : — one to Hudson ; one to Poughkeepsie ; three to Newport, 
R. I. ; three to Bristol, and one to Warren, R. I. ; thirteen to New-Bedford ; six 
to Nantucket ; one to New-London, and two to London. These had been out from 
six months to two and a half years ; and one of them had two thousand four hun- 
dred and fifty barrels of oil ; one nineteen hundred and fifty ; one sixteen hundzedt 
one fourteen hundred, one thirteen hundred, and seyeral from seyen hundred to 
thousand barrels. 



1883.] OALilPAOOS ISLANDS. 471 

the number of disordered ships, and of protracted, if not broken 
Yoyagee, with which some of our readers are but too well acquaint- 
ed. The few consuls we have or have had on the coast are mer- 
chants, who probably hold their commissions for (he security 
they yield to their own interests, and to consignments made to 
their ^respective houses ; while the whaler, who brings them no 
profit, can receive but little of their attention. Their own occu- 
pations do not allow them to look after his interests, or very par- 
ticularly to inquire into his difficulties ; and yet, in a national 
point of view, the mercantile transactions of our citizens on this 
coast, and in these seas, are greatly inferior to the interest of 
those engaged in the fisheries. 

The amount of tonnage of our whale^hips which entered the 
single port of Payta in the year eighteen hundred and thirty-one, 
was twenty-four thousand four hundred and thirty-nine ; having on 
board forty-six thousand two hundred and ten barrels of oil. For 
the year eighteen hundred and thirty-two, twenty-seven thousand 
one hundred tons of shipping, and forty thousand eight hundred 
and ninety-five barrels of oil. For the year eighteen hundred and 
thirty-three, up to October, twenty thousand two hundred and 
seventy-six tons, and thirty-six thousand four hundred and fifty- 
five barrels of oil. And yet, at a point that is and ever must be 
of so much importance, so often the seat of abuse and irregular- 
ity, as well on the part of the local authorities as among our own 
shipping, we have never had, up to this day (October, 18ddX 
even an accredited agent to look after these inunense interests ! 

J. C. Jones, Esq., the United States consul at Oahu, in a letter 
to Commodore Downes, says — " I have never before seen so 
much the importance of having a vessel of war stationed at these 
inlands, for the protection of die whale-fishery ; there has hardly 
been one vessel in the harbour that has not had more or less diffi- 
culties. I have at one time had sixty Americans confined in irons 
at the fort ; and hardly a day has passed that I have not been 
compelled to visit one or more ships to quell a mutiny, or compel 
by force whole crews to their duty, who had imited to work no 
longer. I should say, too, that there were over one himdred de- 
serters now on shore from the American ships this season, regu- 
lar outlaws, ready to embark in any adventure. Had we a ship- 
of-war here, at the season the whale-ships visit the islands, much 



472 voTAOE OF THX POTOMAC. [September, 

trouble could be avoided. In fact, I think it almost indispensably 
required. I hope you will be disposed to send us one of your 
squadron the next spring, as I feel assured that a vessel of war 
will then be required more than ever." 

The commodore received a similar request from J. Lienox 
Kennedy, United States consul at the port of Mazatlan, dated the 
sixteenth of May, eighteen hundred and thirty-three, on account 
of the frequent revolutions which were at that time taking place 
in the country. He also received a pressing letter, signed by five 
American ship-masters, in the port of Callao, complaining of the 
abuses they suffer '' from a class of worthless keepers of grog- 
shops, who entice away and conceal their men, to the great haz- 
ard, and even ruin of their voyages." 

Immediately on the receipt of this letter from the masters of 
the whale-ships, Commodore Downes made a communication to 
the commandant of marines at Callao, which was by him trans- 
mitted to the government at Lima ; and in the course of a few 
days, such regulations were introduced, under the superintend- 
ence of the captain of the port, as effectually checked for the 
time the abuses complained of. The readiness with which the 
local authorities interfered in this matter on the representation 
of Commodore Downes, is an evidence of what might be effected, 
if we had commercial agents who attended to their duties. 

The mere appointment of a consul, as our consuls are appointed 
and supported in other places, will not answer for our extended 
commercial operations of these seas. We require a consul at 
the islands, one in Payta, and another in Talcuahana, Chili, on 
salaries which shall command the services of able men, and make 
them independent in action ; to which add one more sloop-of-war 
to our present squadron, to cruise among the islands ; and then^^ and 
not till then, will our interests be properly protected in the Pacific. 

In Payta we should have an hospital, on a simple and economi- 
cal plan : there is not a foreign port on the globe which needs one 
so much. Let it be remembered, that there are more than six 
thousand seamen traversing the ocean from Japan to this coast, 
visiting each, in the alternate changes of season, engaged in a 
business at all times adventurous, and often exceedingly hazard- 
ous ; and yet, within this mighty range, there is not a spot where 
the disabled or infirm sailor can be placed, with perfect assurance 



1888.] ' ' 6ALAPA008 TILAHDS. 478 

of being well attended to. The consequence is, frequent instances 
of suffering and deaths imder the most melancholy ciicimistances, 
but for which neither the owners nor the captains are responsible. 
The mild and healthy climate of Payta would be in its favour ; 
and the expense would be very small, as could easily be shown. 
We could say much more on this subject, but think it high time 
to return to La Floriana. 

The arrival of the Potomac brought the first intelligence to 
Governor Vilamil, that he had been appointed United States con- 
sul for the port of GuayaquiL He remarked, that under any other 
circumstances, he would have received with pride this mark of 
confidence on the part of his native country ; but having engaged 
in his present enterprise, nothing could induce him to abandon it ; 
and seated, as it were, upon a rock, separated from all the world, 
he hoped he should be able to render more important services, at 
least to one branch of our commerce, than he could in the con* 
sulate of Guayaquil. 

As governor of the island his power is absolute, and his right 
in the soil is without limit of time. Crimes are punished severely, 
and minor offences by sending the delinquent six, eight, or ten 
months on board any whaler in need of men, to be returned to the 
island previously to the departure of the ship for the United States. 
By this policy the whaler is benefited, the offender punished, and 
also improved by a knowledge of a new business, and by earning 
something for himself. 






474 TOT AOB ov» THX POTOMAC. [Oclober, 



CHAPTER XXVIII. ' 

Safl from the Galapagos — ^Yiait Guayaquil — ^Touch at the ports of Payta and Lam- 
bayeque — Arrival at Callao — ^Meet the Fairfield — Return to Valparaiso — Depart 
for the United Statea — Falkland Islands. 

We left Charles's Island on Tuesday, the tenth of September* 
and after a passage of seven days made the Main, and came to 
anchor at Puna Island, Bay of Guayaquil, about forty miles below 
the town. Guayaquil has been a flourishing commercial city, 
and the principal port of entry in that portion of the republic of 
Colombia which, since its dismemberment, forms the republic of 
the Equador. It is situated about seventy-five miles from the sea, 
on the north bank of the river whose name it bears, in latitude 2* 
12^ south, and about one hundred and forty miles north of Payta. 
It is built partly on the side and partly at the foot of a lull, which 
gently descends towards the river. Quito is the capital, once a 
place of great wealth and splendour, and acknowledged to be the 
first-bom of the independence. 

The commodore, with a party of oflScers, spent a week in 
Guayaquil, and very agreeably too ; for on no part of the coast is 
there more improved and refined society, or a people who better 
know how to practise the rites of hospitality. Besides, Guaya- 
quil has long been celebrated for its female beauty. The country, 
however, is growing poor, from the effects of almost constant rev- 
olution with which it has been afflicted. 

We sailed from Puna on Sunday, tlie twenty-ninth of Sep- 
tember, and touching at the ports of Payta and Lambayeque, ar- 
rived at Callao on Sunday, the twenty-seventh of October. The 
Falmouth had departed long since for the United Stales, and in 
her place was found one of our squadron, the sloop-of-war Fair- 
field, Master-commandant Vallctte. In her first lieutenant, James 
P. Wilson, we were happy to meet an old acquaintance, a long- 
tried friend, an able officer, and a worthy man. During all the 
month of January, Commodore Wadsworth was expected to arrive 
at Valparaiso, when the Potomac, in course, would depart for the 



1833.] POLITICAL. ' , * 475 

iTnited States, and eveiy requisite anangement was made at Cal- 
lao for our departure. Peru was unsettled, and the afiiicted 
Equador was convulsed with revolution. The Fairfield was de- 
spatched to Guayaquil to protect our trade, and the Dolphin, now 
commanded by Lieutenant-commandant Yorheese, was stationed at 
Callao for the protection of American interests in that quarter, 
while we took our final leave of Peru, and arrived at Valparaiso 
on Monday, the sixteenth of December. 

The Potomac had now been fourteen months on the coast, ac- 
tively employed whereiver our commercial interests seemed to re- 
quire her presence. She had boarded, on the station, seventy-one 
American vessels, amounting to nearly twenty thousand tons of 
shipping, and manned by eleven hundred men. In all the ports, 
the commodore had held officii intercourse with the authorities ; 
preserving throughout a strict national character, impressing on the 
minds of all, that the United States wished for peace and recip- 
rocal commerce with her sister republics of the south. 

A word on the political conditioa and prospects of these coun- 
tries, and a word only can be given at a moment like the present, 
when home is on every tongue, until the very Potomac herself 
almost indicates her impatience of delay. The true condition of 
these countries, it appears to us, has of late been btit too gener- 
ally misunderstood, and, by superficial observers, but too &e- 
quenlly misrepresented. We allude to the opinion becoming 
prevalent^ that these people are unfit for firee institutions and self- 
government ; and their firequent disturbance* are referred to as 
conclusive evidence in support of this opinion. 

Now we not only maintain that this opinion is unjust, and un- 
founded in truth ; impolitic, so far as it shall mislead the people 
of the United States, and render our government less watchful 
of what is going on in these countries ; where, by-the-by, every 
thing is not always turned to the best account ; — ^but, that the 
very reverse of the proposition is true — ^viz., that these people, 
notwithstanding all their internal convulsions, are nevertheless 
working out their political salvation, and that they will ultimately 
succeed in the consolidation of their liberty. 

Did not the people of these countries, immediately on achieving 
their independence, establish governments the most free ? — adopt- 
ing, almost without ap exception, the very spirit, and often Uie 



t» 



t 



/- 



476 voTAOE OF THB POTOMAC. [December^ 

forms of our own hallowed institutions ? From that moment to 
tiie present, who can point out a single instance in which they 
have wavered from their determination to establish and maintain 
their independence, notwithstanding all their sacrifices, civil com- 
motions, and abuses of men trusted too implicitly with power ? 

If they had not resolved on the establishment of free institu- 
tions, why did they not adopt a despotism, or some government 
more analogous than a republic to the one they had lived under ? 
The answer is easy, and at hand. A despotism can only exist, 
where the people are ignorant and superstitious ; but these peo- 
ple, in bursting their political bonds, in a good measure got rid 
of many deceptions, and greatly weakened the force of numerous 
superstitions. The elements for the establishment of a perma- 
nent despotic government, therefore, do not exist in these states. 

If the numerous instances in which men intrusted with the 
administration of affairs in these countries, through misguided 
views or bad motives, have tyrannised over the people for a time, 
be brought against this assertion, then we refer to the discontent of 
the people which followed, revolts in the districts, and the final 
overthrow of their oppressors, as a triumphant reply ! 

We have travelled some in these countries, from the ocean to 
the Cordilleras — in their capitals, principal towns, and remote 
districts ; have witnessed the celebration of their national jubilees, 
and days rendered memorable, on which signal victories have 
been won by an armed peasantry against superior numbers and 
discipline ; have seen the multitude rejoice, and the serious appear 
full of hope in the prospect of better times ; and following and min- 
gling in the train the youth of the country, chanting their patri- 
otic songs; — and we could not doubt that these people would 
ultimately succeed in the establishment of their liberty. The 
soil that has drunk so much blood, shed in the cause of freedom, 
cannot for ever maintain a race of slaves ! Indeed, the love of 
liberty was scarcely more deeply rooted in the sequestered dells 
of Switzerland, than it is in these countries. Of this liberty, their 
ideas, we confess, are often rude and ill-defined; but still the 
germe is here. 

Of the bold assertors of the ignorance and incapacity of these 
people, who see so much cause of alarm, and are for ever draw- 
ing sinister conclusions from their frequent internal convulsions. 



1883»] POLITICAL. 4T7 

we would ask, if any philosopher or statesman has ever been able 
to reduce to system the process by which a people advance to 
freedom ; or to graduate the precise degree of information neces- 
siary, before they commence the work of reform ? 

Will those persons who maintain that the South Americans are 
as yet too ignorant or unfit for self-government, have the good- 
ness to state the period when it would have been more wise in 
them to have made the effort ? Ought they to have waited until 
their country abounded with statesmen and experienced legisla- 
tors ; but which, in truth, never could have been found, except in 
the very struggles through which they are now passing ? Or 
when should a people resist oppression ? There can be but one 
answer to this question ; and that is — the very day when they 
know their rights ! 

Now we believe that no one who is acquainted with the his- 
tory of South America will venture the assertion, that its inhabi- 
tants are ignorant of their rights ; and if not, we appeal to the 
records of history, if any people ever retrograded after having 
made such progress, unless overwhelmed and cnished by a supe- 
rior power, interested in the suppression of liberal principles ? 

Their frequent commotioiSs make nothing against this proposi- 
tion ; for these commotions are not carried on between the friends 
of monarchies and republics ; nor of a privileged few against the 
many. But these commotions occur between an enthusiastic 
love of liberty on the one hand, and political inexperience on the 
other ; between the ambition of men too confidently trusted by a 
confiding people, whom experience has not even yet taught to be 
sufficiently wary and distrustful. But mark ! — whatever these 
abuses may have been, no one has ever yet been able to perpet- 
uate them, nor ever can ! 

In shaking off the yoke of Spain, these people achieved, and 
nobly achieved, their independence. But did that achievements 
give them the requisite knowledge for managing their civil insti- 
tutions ? Certainly not ; — for this experience is only to be ac- 
quired by repeated struggles ; — and hence their internal commo- 
tions have been, and for a time may continue to be, absolutely 
unavoidable. It is the price, the passage-money, which they are 
doomed from the very nature of things to pay, in their progress 
towards the consolidation of their liberty, ^d (|^ grown out of 



478 YOYA.GB OF THE POTOMAC. [December, 

causes which have taken place since the revolution ; and which 
have not, and never have had, connexion with any party in the 
country unfavourable to hberty, and the estabhshment of republi- 
can institutions. 

We must give these republics time. The birth and maturity 
of a nation are not the work of a day ; and low indeed must be 
his estimate of the blessings of liberty, who considers that these 
people, with all their toils, sacrifices, and sufferings, are paying 
a price too dear ! 

But what have they not done already? Who worked the 
mines, guarded the flocks, and tilled the soil of Spanish America ? 
The Indian ! From whence issued those inunense streams of 
wealth which flowed from the colonies into the lap of the mother 
country, during the three hundred years of her tyranny and do- 
minion, but from the poor and subjugated Indian? Who can 
reflect, without horror, on the destruction of eight millions of 
these wretched beings, who, in Peru alone, perished under the 
cruel and unjust exactions of the Mita ? What excesses and ex- 
tortions were not committed— civil and ecclesiastical, under the 
well intended, but much abused, regulation of the Ripartimiento ! 

Does the total aboUtion of these abuses — of slavery, the Inqui- 
sition, and a hundred others,* on the ruins of the Spanish system, 
argue unfitness for self-government in these people ? Indeed, it 
appears to us, that if we reflect on what these countries were 
under the Spanish dominion, the restrictions of commerce, of sci- 
ence and the arts, the political deceptions and superstitions which 
were constantly practised, and then reflect on the spectacle they 
now present (disturbed as they are), the only matter of aston- 
ishment will be, that they have done so much in the short space 
of twenty years ! 

If these views be not deceptive, and a vast deal more might 
be advanced to show that they are not, how deeply interesting to 
the friends of liberty in our own country, in Europe, and through- 

♦ Though actual toleration has not been extended in these countries, the friends 
of such a measure are neither few nor without influence. The rising generation 
will regulate this matter. We have never seen a young man of intelligence, in any 
of these countries, who was not ultra liberal on this point. The power of the clergy 
has been overthrown, and they are now, comparatively, the htunble pensioners, in- 
stead of the haughty and bigoted rulers, of the state. 



I 



1833.] POLITICAL. 479 

out the world, to behold these states, containing no less than twelve 
millions of inhabitants, moving on "through good and through 
evil report," through heavy sacrifices, oft-repeated and severe trials 
and conflicts, but without for a moment losing sight of or waver- 
ing in their first determination to estabhsh free institutions ! They 
must succeed ; though they commit errors, they will correct them 
again, and at some perhaps distant day, the hopes of the philan- 
thropist and patriot will be realized. Liberty can only be attained 
by great sacrifices, and preserved only by eternal vigilance ! 

The period for the return of the Potomac to the United States 
had now arrived ; indeed, it had passed some time, from a desire 
to meet with our reUef, Commodore Wadsworth, before leaving 
the station. The pubUc interest, however, not making it neces- 
sary to remain longer, every thing was put in readiness for the 
homeward-bound passage ; and on the morning of the ninth of 
February, eighteen hundred and thirty-four, the Potomac was 
ready for sea. Joyous was the impulse that throbbed in every 
bosom, as her hardy tars heaved up the heavy anchors to her bows, 
while the parting salute was exchanged with the Chilian flag on 
shore. The wind was fresh, and in a short time Valparaiso faded 
in the distance. The aspiring hills, and even the lofty mountains 
in their rear, sunk by degrees, until they at last could be seen no 
longer. 

In three days we passed beyond the Island of Juan Fernandez, 
and then, changing our coiurse, stood for the stormy Cape, the 
passing of which was rendered tedious by light, baffling, and often 
contrary winds. 

On the morning of the ninth March, we came in sight of one 
of the Falkland Islands, in latitude 52* 55' south — a low island 
of about five miles in length. The day was pleasant and clear ; 
and we began to enjoy, by anticipation, the pleasure of visiting the 
main group, which was now hid from our view by white fleecy 
clouds suspended over them. 

We stood aroimd to the east end of the island, with the inten- 
tion of going into Berkley Sound, in compliance with discretion- 
ary instructions which the commodore had received firom the de- 
partment to that efiect 



480 VOYAGE OF THB POTOMAC. [March, 



^. 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

Falkland lalands — Controversy between the United States and the Argentine Re- 
public, in reference to our right to a free use of the hsheries in the waters which 
surround these islands and their adjacencies. 

Towards the conclusion of our last chapter, among olher 
things we mentioned the arrival of the Potomac at the Falkland 
Islands, and that it was the intention of the commodore to have 
stopped at Port Egmont, agreeably to his conditional instructions 
from the departmetit, had not tlie thick fogs, contrary winds, and 
exceedingly rough weather, rendered it impracticable to do so. 

While in the Pacific we had occasionally seen, through the 
medium of the Buenos Ayrean press, some accounts of the late 
controversy between the United States and the Argentine Re- 
public, in relation to the sovereignty of these islands, and of our 
rights to a free use of the fisheries there. The subject struck us 
at the time as one of deep interest, because there are a thousand 
other points on the globe where similar questions affecting our 
rights might be set up with equal pretensions. 

We have taken a great deal of pains to inform ourselves of the 
merits of this controversy, and we have now before us a quarto 
pamphlet of about one hundred and twenty pages, in Spanish, 
purporting to be " A collection of Official Documents, showing 
the origin and present slate of the question between the two 
countries." 

This publication, however, is not the best source for obtaining 
accurate and exact information of the state of the controversy 
between the United States and the Argentine Republic ; but, as 
yet, it is the only source : for on the ground that the negotiation 
is still pending, the president did not communicate the corre- 
spondence relating to it when called for by the House of Repre- 
sentatives, on the motion of the Honourable John Quincy 
Adams. 

The correspondence contained in the pamphlet to which we 
have alluded, was published by order of the government of 



1834.] FALKLAND ISLANDS. 481 

Buenos Ayres, soon after Mr. Baylies, the late charge d^alSaires 
of the United States, left that country ; and his part of the cor* 
respondence, as well as that of the Consul Slacum, as yet, can be 
seen only through the medium of two translations, first from the 
English into Spanish, and then from the Spanish into English. 
Of the instructions to Mr. Baylies, and his correspondence with 
his own government, we, of course, can have no knowledge ; and we 
have been obliged to rely on this foreign publication, and on infor- 
mation from sources which we believe to be accurate, for the 
following account of the negotiations. 

The attention of the public within a few years has been at- 
tracted to the Falkland Islands; and controversies have bei^ 
revived, with a change of parties indeed, like those which once 
employed the pens of Junius and Johnson, and called out the 
eloquence of Lord Chatham! One of the Hispano- American 
colonies has endeavoured to maintain, in its own behalf, those 
rights of sovereignty and jurisdiction once claimed by Spain ; 
and a new element has been infused into the existing controversy, 
which embraces the right of the people of the United States to a 
free fishery at those islands, and those adjacent. 

The steril soil and inhospitable climate of the Falkland 
Islands, have hitherto prevented their occupation ; they were un- 
inhabited when discovered, and, with the exception of occasional 
and transient residents, have so remained. Yet their position will 
always render them important in the estimation of commercial 
nations. 

This group, consisting of two large islands and many smaller 
ones, some of which are mere rocks, is situated for the most part 
between the fifty-first and fifty-second degrees of south latitude, 
and nearly opposite the southern extremity of Patagonia, which 
is the nearest land. The islands lie near the track of all the 
navigation which passes around Cape Horn, and at no inconve- 
nient distance from the Cape of Good Hope, the harbour of Rio 
Janeiro, and the Rio de la Plata. 

In the long voyages around Cape Horn, into the Pacific Ocean 
and back, ships are frequently in want of provisions : if a dq>oi 
were established at the Falklands, supplies might be obtained 
without any great deviation firom a direct course ; and this dqwt 
might sometimes be <^ service to the crews of vessels, wheii| 

Hh 



482 VOYAGE OF THE POTOMAC. [MaTcby 

ba£3ed in the attempt to double the Cape of Good Hope, they 
have been brought upon short allowance. If there were also a 
depot of naval stores, vessels which had been crippled by the 
furious winds and storms of the southern seas, would find these 
islands a convenient place for refitting ; such a depot might also 
be of service to the vessels engaged in the whale-fishery on the 
Brazil Banks. 

Considered in a military view, the Falkland's are a commanding 
position, from their proximity to the track of navigation in pass- 
ing around Cape Horn, or through the Strait of Magellan. All 
the vessels engaged in the seal-fisheries at these and the adjacent 
islands would be exposed to the depredations of armed cruisers 
issuing from their various harbours, whose cruises could be easily 
extended, to the great annoyance of that rich trade which is 
carried on between Europe and the United States, and India and 
China. It is true, there is no timber or materials for ship- 
building on the islands, but a maritime people can always provide 
themselves with vessels. A piratical people, in possession of this 
station, could annoy the commerce of the world more effectually 
than all the piratical states of Barbary, and this evil the people 
of the United States, in some degree, have already experienced. 

Before the revolution, the North Americans, as they were termed 
in South America, had extended their voyages so far, that, in the 
language of Burke, the Falkland Islands were but a stage in the 
progress of their victorious industry. Soon after the peace of 
seventeen hundred and eighty-three, these voyages were resumed. 
The fisheries on the Brazil Banks and in the Pacific Ocean em- 
ployed a great number of vessels, many seamen, and much capital. 
The seal-fishery also became important, and our mariners fre- 
quented these desolate islands and coasts during the period of the 
Spanish domination without interruption, and their right to pursue 
this fishery there was never questioned by Spain : nothing was 
done to impeach or deny it until June tenth, eighteen hundred and 
twenty-nine, when, during the temporary existence of a govern- 
ment at Buenos Ayres, originating in a mutiny, and disgraced by 
the murder of the chief magistrate, one Louis Vemet, a German 
adventurer and anaturaUzed citizen of the United States, obtained 
a decree by which he was constituted civil and military gov- 
ernor of the Falkland Islands, Terra del Fuego, and the adjacent 
islands. 



1834.] FALKLAND ISLANDS. 488 

The decree asserted the right of Buenos Ayres to the Falkland 
Islands and all the others, on the ground of having been formerly 
occupied by Spanish subjects, and of having been incorporated in 
the viceroyalty of the Rio de la Plata, when under the Spanish 
monarchy, whose successors the government of Buenos Ayres 
claimed to be, by virtue of the revolution of the twenty-fifth of 
May, eighteen hundred and ten. 

It is proper to state here, that by this revolution the dominion 
of the Spanish nation was thrown off at Buenos Ayres, but not that 
of the Spanish king. Ferdinand VII. was acknowledged there 
until eighteen hundred and sixteen, and, in some parts of the vice* 
royalty, several years longer. 

This decree was never communicated to the government of the 
United States, nor to Mr. Forbes, our resident at Buenos Ayres, 
nor does it appear that he protested against it. Mr. Parish, the 
British resident, under instructions from his government, formally 
protested against it as early as the nineteenth of November, 
eighteen hundred and twenty-nine, on the ground that the Argen- 
tine Republic had assumed authority over the Falkland Islands 
incompatible with his Britannic majesty's rights of sovereignty^ 
which were founded on original discovery and occupation, and 
sanctioned by the King of Spain, who, on the requisition of the 
King of Great Britain, had formally restored them after a military 
occupation ; and when they were abandoned by the British forces, 
in seventeen hundred and seventy-four, there was no intention of 
abandoning the sovereign jurisdiction, and therefore " the marics 
and signals of possession and property were left upon the islands,^ 
indicating an intention of resuming possession at a more con- 
venient period. 

Vemet had resided at the islands previous to his appointment* 
Soon afterward he issued a drcular, which fell into the hands of 
some of the Americans who were in that region, in which all 
persons were required to desist from the use of the whale and 
seal-fisheries in the waters and on the coasts of the islands in- 
cluded in the decree. Considering these waters and coasts as 
free to all nations, and the exclusive property of none, our countiy* 
men continued their fisheries as usual. 

Vemet did not commit any violences until after the death of 
Mr. Forbes, which happened on the fourteenth of June, eighteen 

Hh 2 



484 fOTAOE 6F THE POTOMAC. [MtTCll, 

hundred and thirty-one. On the thirtieth of July following, the 
Harriet, Captain Davison, of Stohington, was taken while in har- 
bour. On the seventeenth of August, Captain Carew, com- 
mander of the schooner Breakwater, also of Stonington, while on 
shore, was arrested and confined, and on the next day his vessel 
was seized : he was compelled, against his wishes, to embark in a 
British vessel bound to Rio Janeiro, but his vessel was recaptured 
by the crew. On the nineteenth of August, Captain Stephen 
Congar, of the schooner Superior, belongingto the city of New- 
York, was arrested and imprisoned — ^his vessel seized, and his 
crew confined. 

The seizures were attended with many outrages of a piratical 
character. The crew of the Harriet were put in close confine- 
ment ; her papers were seized, and a part of the cargo was sold, 
without condemnation or legal process. While Davison and 
Congar were in confinement, this civil and miUtary governor com- 
pelled them to sign a contract, by which they became obligated to 
proceed with one of the vessels to the western coast of South 
America, to catch seals on his account : without condemnation, 
he substituted himself forcibly in place of the owners, and com- 
pelled the imprisoned shipmates to obligate themselves, by oaths, 
** not to do any thing to prejudice his interests ;" and to agree that 
any deviation from this compulsory contract should be considered 
'' as a breach of faith," and that no law should liberate them from 
such penalties and forfeitures as he should impose upon thepQ ; 
" thus attempting (in the words of Mr. Baylies) to secure his own 
piratical interests from the operation of the laws, by oaths of his 
own devising." Without bringing them to trial for their alleged 
ofiences, he compelled them to i^ee to enter his service for his 
private and personal benefit, usiitg his civic and military powers 
to extort from them a written obligation in the shape of a mer- 
cantile contract, to go beyond his pretended jurisdiction to catch 
seals on his account. The Superior and Captain Congar were 
selected for this service. 

Seven of the crew of the Superior had been left on Staten-land, 
who were engaged in taking seals there, and were to be taken off 
at the end of six months, for which time they were supplied with 
provisions. Congar was prevented from relieving them, by being 
compeUed to go directly through the Strait of Magellan to the 



J * 



■ i 



• . . • 






1834.] VALKLAND ISLANDS. 485 

western coast o£ South America, and by being interdicted from 
all communication with the sealeis by the terms of the contracL 

Vemet attempted to entice American seamen into his service 
by the promise of extravagant wages. 

He arrested and imprisoned four seamen^a part of the crew of 
the schooner Belville, wrecked on the coast of Terra del Fuego : 
he took from them a quantity of sealskins and whalebone, which he 
converted to his own use : be compelled them, under threats of 
being sent to Bacpoa Ayre» to k tried as pirates, to sign an 
agreement in behalf of themselves and five shipmates then on 
Eagle Island engaged in building a shallop, stipulating that the 
shallop, when completed, should be employed in the seal-fishery 
on his account ; and he engaged to share with them the plunder 
of vessels which they should capture, — thus inciting them to en- 
gage in a piratical warfare against their own countrymen. One 
seaman he endeavoured to force in^his service, by depriving 
him of food while in prison. He decisured to Davison that it was 
his determination to capture all American vessels, including wha« 
ling as well as sealing vessels, on the arrival of an armed vessel 
for which he had contracted. Wiiile he was pursuing this sys* 
tem of depredation and outrage against American conmierce, he 
spared the Adeona, a British vessel, whose crew were taking 
seals at the mouth of the harbour, declaring that he could not 
take an English vessel with the same propriety that he could an 
American ! These outrages of Vemet are set forth at length in a 
communication of Mr. Baylies, addressed to the minister of 
foreign affairs at Buenos Ayres, dated June twentieth, eighteen 
hundred and thirty-two. 

The government of the UniMfeStates having obtained knowl- 
edge of the existence of the d^JIR of the tenth of June, eighteen 
hundred and twenty-nine, formally instructed Mr. Forbes, the 
agent at Buenos Ayres, to address to the government of the 
Argentine Republic an earnest remonstrance '' against any meas- 
ures that may have been adopted by it, including the decree and 
circular letter referred to, if they be genuine, which are calculated 
in the remotest degree to impose any restraints whatever upon 
the enterprise of the citizens of the United States, engaged in the 
fisheries in question, or to impair their undoubted right to the 
freest use of them." 



486 VOYAGE OF THE POTOMAC. [UaTcIl^ 

The president called the attention of congress to this subject, in 
his annual message of December, eighteen hundred and thirty-one.* 

Soon after the capture of the vessels, Vemet left the Falklands 
in the Harriet, taking Captain Davison with him, and on the 
twentieth of November arrived at BuenOs Ayres, and immedi- 
ately caused a process to be issued from one of the judicial tribu- 
nals against the vessel, under which she was held for trial. 

Mr. Forbes at this time was dead : no successor was appointed ; 
and George W. Slacum, Esq. Was the consul of the United States 
at that port. 

On the twenty-first of November, Mr. Slacum addressed a 
note to the minister of foreign afiairs, Don Thomas Manuel de 
Anchorena, inquiring why ^^2ihonafide American vessel, engaged 
in lawful trade, should be captured by an officer of a friendly 
government." 

On the twenty-fifth the j|||b^ster replied, informing him that the 
afifair was before the minister of war and marine ; and after the 
customary forms had been passed through, the afiair would be 
laid before the government for its consideration, whose resolution- 
thereon would be conformable to the laws of the country. 

On the twenty-sixth, Mr. Slacum, in another note, informed the 
minister of foreign afiairs that he considered his reply as a virtual 
avowal of Vemet's right to capture American vessels, engaged in 
the fisheries at the Falkland Islands, &c. He denied tlie right 
in toto, and protested against its exercise — the decree of June 

* " I should (says the president) haye placed Buenos Ayres in the list of South 
American powers, in respect to which, nothing of importance affecting us was to be 
communicated ; but for occurrences wh ich hare lately taken place at the Falkland 
Islands, in which the name of that repulj^PpM been used to cover, with a show of 
authority, acts injurious to our commeice, tad to the property and liberty of our fel- 
low-citizens. In the course of the present year, one of our vessels, engaged in the 
pursuit of a trade which we have always enjoyed without molestation, has been cap- 
tured by a band acting, as they pretend, under the authority of the government of 
Buenos Ayres. I have therefore given orders for the despatch of an armed vessel, to 
join our squadron in those seas, and aid in affording all lawful protection to our trade 
which shall be necessary ; and shall, without delay, send a minister to inquire into 
the nature of the circumstances, and also of the claim, if any, that is set up by that 
government to those islands. In the meantime I submit the case to the consider- 
ation of congress, to the end that they may clothe the executive with such authority 
and means as they may deem necessary for providing a force adequate to the 
plete protection of our fellow-citizens fishing and trading in those seas." 



1834.] FALKLA.N1> ISLANDS. 48T 

tenth, eighteen hundred and twenty-nine — the circular of Vernet 
— the seizure of the vessels, and the imprisonment of American 
citizens, &c. 

A few days after the date of this last note. Captain Silas Dun- 
can arrived at Buenos Ayres, in the United States sloop-of-war 
Lexington, and, as it would seem, addressed a note to the consul, 
with a view to obtain information respecting the transactions at 
the Falklands. The evidence and documents were furnished, and 
Duncan then determined to proceed there " to protect the citizens 
and commerce of the United States engaged in the fisheries,'' and 
particularly to relieve the seven men who had been left on Staten- 
land without the means of subsistence : this intention he commu- 
nicated to the consul by note, and requested him to transmit a 
copy of the note to the government of Buenos Ayres, to prevent 
misunderstanding with respect to his visit to the islands, '* and in 
conformity to the open and candid iHde in which the affairs of 
the United States were conducted." This communication wa» 
dated December first. 

On the third of December, the minister of foreign affairs re- 
plied to the consul's communication which contained the protest, 
refusing to receive it, inasmuch as the authority from his govern- 
ment to offer it was not shown, and the governor did not consider 
that a consul was authorized to protest against any act of the gov- 
ernment ex officio, " much less when it was indubitable that the 
government of the United States had no right whatever to the 
aforesaid islands, or to fish upon them ; while that which upheld 
the republic of Buenos Ayres was imquestionable." 

On the sixth of December, the minister of foreign affairs ac- 
knowledged to the consul the i^Kp^ ^^ ^^^ ^^Py ^^ Captain Dun- 
can's letter of the first. 

On the same day, the consul addressed another communication 
to the minister, informing him that Captain Duncan would delay 
his departure until the ninth, to receive communications from the 
government of Buenos Ayres, having reference to the suspension 
" of the exercise of the right to capture" the fishing-vessels, and 
the restoration of the Harriet and her cargo, and to place things 
as they were previous to the seizure of the vessels. He informed 
him, that the anxiety of Captain Duncan to relieve the seamen on 
Staten-land, ^nd to prevent future captures, was the cause of 



486 TOTAOS OF THE POTOMAC. [March, 

his haste : — that the proposition was based on a suggestion in 
Qne of the minister's communications, of a desire on the part of 
the government of Buenos Ayres to settle the question as to the 
right of fishery, by a direct understanding with the government 
of the United States ; and he urged the propriety of suspending 
the seizures, and placing things on their former ground, until an 
attempt should have been made to settle the question amicably. 

In the same note the consul contended for his right to protest, 
when the interest of American citizens was concerned ; and he 
averred, that in doing so he acted by the authority of his own 
goveminent — ^and that he had been considered and treated with as 
the representative of the government of the United States, since 
the death of Mr. Forbes, the charge d'affaires. 

On the seventh of December, Captain Duncan addressed a note 
directly to the minister of foreign affairs, declaring that he had it 
in proof that Vemet did Htuider the schooner Harriet; and re- 
quested, that inasmuch as he had been guilty of piracy and rob- 
bery, he should be surrendered to the United States for trial, " or 
that he be arrested and punished by the laws of Buenos Ayres." 

On the ninth of December, the minister of foreign affairs ad- 
dressed another note to the consul, complaining of the impropri- 
ety and indecorum of pressing the government to a decision on 
" an affair of a private litigious nature," in which he had no right 
to interfere, " it being a private contentious affair ;" especially 
when he could not be ignorant " of the weighty and urgent atten- 
tions which notoriously surrounded the government." The con- 
sul was informed, that if the commander of the Lexington " should 
commit any act, or use any measure, which might tend to a de- 
nial of the right which the repidriic had to the Falkland Islands, 
and coasts adjacent to Cape Horn," or to impede the seal-fishery, 
the government would address a formal complaint to the gov- 
ernment of the United States, " and would cause to make valid 
and respected its rights, by all the means it might esteem con- 
venient." The minister also informed the consul, that he laboured 
under a remarkable error in supposing himself as being consid- 
ered the representative of the United States, when he was con- 
sidered in no other light than as consul of the United States for 
the city of Buenos Ayres ; and expressed the hope that he would 
confine himself to his particular function, " and refrain fi-om per- 



\ 



I 



.1834.] FALKLAND ISLANDB. 489 

sisting in the protest which he had made against rij^ts which *had 
been and were in possession of the government ; and which, until 
this time," says the minister, '^ nobody has questioned.'' 

Another note of the same date was addressed by the minister 
to the consul, informing him, that on a. memorial or '* solicitude" 
of Don Louis .Vemet, a process had been issued against Captain 
Davison, of the Harriet, for the purpose of holding him in arrest, 
and preventing his departure, until he should appoint an attorney ; 
but that Davison had gone on board the Lexington. The consul 
was requested to inform him of the pains and penalties of his 
evasion. 

Both notes were answered by the consul on the fifteenth of 
December. The consul could not see on what principles the 
government could detain Davison, already the victim of a '^ pro- 
tracted incarceration," to coerce him to execute a power of attor- 
ney on the requisition of Vernet, whdk Davison had already de- 
clined to litigate the questions growing out of the seizure of the 
Harriet before toy of the local tribunals ; and had denied to the 
government their right to seize his vessel. 

With respect to his authority, he quoted the instructions to Mr. 
Forbes, and contended that the fisheries were free to all nations, 
and the exclusive property of none. He defended himself against 
the charge of indecorum ; maintained the propriety of his conduct, 
and his right to interfere by protest for the protection of his coun- 
trymen, with becoming spirit and force. This communicaticm 
closed the correspondence between the minister of foreign affairs 
and the American consul. 

We are not prepared to say how far a consul is authorized to 
act, in case of the death or absiSKe of a minister. The secreta- 
ries of legation are generally c^sidered as temporary charges 
d'affaires on such occasions ; but at Buenos Ayres there was no 
secretary of legation. If a minister or charge of the United 
States should die in a country so remote as Buenos Ayres, nearly 
a year from the time of his death would elapse before he could 
be replaced. The voyage back and forth would consume four or 
five months : the appointment of a minister would require inquiry 
and deliberation, and some time would necessarily elapse before 
the person appointed could prepare himself for a voyage so long, 
and for a residence in a country so remote. In the meantime it 



49C toTAOS UP THB POTOMAC. [Maich, 

would seem, that some person should be ch^ged with the inter- 
ests of the United States ex necessitate rei ; and if there be no 
secretary of legation, none would seem so proper for such service 
as the consul residing at the seat of government ; we mean, espe- 
cially, in all matters relating to commerce. 

Dignity is never to be trifled with — ^it is sometimes extremely 
troublesome to those who assume it and still wish to do business, 
and it is better to wave its punctilios, even in diplomatic inter- 
course : but being once assumed, it is a derogation to abandon it : 
the consul's notes should have been rejected in the outset, or at 
least after the first intimation that he had transcended his authority, 
or not at all. 

While the consul and the minister were engaged in these dis- 
cussions, Captain Duncan, with Davison for a pilot, sailed on the 
ninth of December for the Falklands, where he arrived on the thirty- 
first. He did no more thah spike some guns which were lying on 
the beach, and which he had good reason to suppose were to be 
used in vessels which were to be employed in* the capture of 
American sealers and whalers : as much of the plundered property 
as he could find he restored to the right owners: he arrested 
seven men who were proved to have been concerned in the cap- 
ture of the vessels, among whom was one Brisbane, a British sub- 
ject, who had been the chief agent in the atrocities of Vemet : 
the remainder of the settlers he brought away at their own re- 
quest, who complained much of the deceptions which had been 
practised upon them by Vemet: some of the Guachos, who 
formed a part of this settlement, fled to the interior : he seized no 
bana-Jide property of Vemet's, and scrupulously respected all 
private properly : after despatcl^g the Shallop (whose flag was 
changed) with its crew to Staten-land, to relieve the seamen there, 
he left the Falklands, returned to the river, and anchored at 
Montevideo on the seventh of February, eighteen hundred and 
thirty-two, from whence he addressed a note to the government, 
ofiering to surrender his prisoners if they would give an assurance 
that they acted under their authority. 

Commodore George W. Rogers, who had been appointed to 
the command of the Brazil squadron, arrived at the river, in the 
United States schooner Enterprise, and hoisted his flag on board 
the Warren, Captain Cooper. The commodore found himself in 



•.« 



1884.] FALKLAND ISLANB8» 491 

a situation which presented only a choice of difficulties. The honour 
or the peace of the American nation might be affected by his con* 
duct. It was his desire to maintain friendly relations with the 
wayward government of Buenos Ayres, but he was not disposed 
to make unreasonable or humihating concessions to sooth their 
rage or gratify their caprices. After weighing all the circum- 
stances, he resolved to proceed to Buenos Ayres. 

In the meantime the news of Duncan's transactions had reached 
the city, and the community there were thrown into a paroxysm 
of rage. The consul was suspended. The newspapers were 
filled with inflammatory publications^ On the fourteenth of Feb- 
ruary a proclamation was issued by the delegate government, 
signed by Don Juan Ramon Balcarse and Don Manuel I. Garcia, 
two of the ministry, in which the conduct of Duncan was de- 
nounced in language of the most violent and inflammatory char- 
acter ; and while magnifying their own magnanimity and forbear- 
ance, and duly eulogizing their own honour, they could find no 
greater indulgence for Duncan than to stigmatize him as a public 
robber, who had invaded, " with rancorous fury, their ancient col- 
ony, in the midst of profound peace ;'' and they declared that the 
unanimous explosion of indignation at this odious outrage was 
fully justified, &c. &c. At the same time a circular letter, signed 
by the same ministers, was issued to the governors of the several 
provinces, composing, according to their denomination, the Argen- 
tine Republic, repeating the same denunciations of the American 
commander. In this paroxysm the government admitted what 
they had carefully abstained from admitting before, — that Vemet 
was the civil and military governor of the Falkland Islands. The 
consul was suspended on the aypged ground of '* a notable ir- 
regularity in his ideas and language" in his official correspond- 
ence, which, had been closed two months before, and was held 
with an individual not then a member of the government. 

To the note in which he was informed that his functions were 
suspended, the consul replied that he had received no intimation 
from his own government to suspend his functions, neither had he 
any authority to appoint a substitute (a course suggested by the 
government of Buenos Ayres). He concluded by declaring, that 
the responsibility of the act of suspension rested on the govem- 



« I' , 






A'. 



492 voTAGB OF THB POTOMAC. [Sfarcfa, 

meat of Buenos Ayresi as well as every other step which they 
saw fit to take. 

On the twenty-seventh of February Don Manuel I. Grarcia re- 
signed his place in the ministry, and on the seventli of March 
Don Juan Manuel de Rosas resumed the command of the proT- 
inces, as governor, with dictatorial powers. Garcia, previous to 
his resignation, informed Slacum (then divested of office, and un« 
acknowledged) by note, that Vemet, under decrees of the first 
and thirteenth of June, was the civil and miUtary governor of the 
Falkland Islands, &c. 

Commodore Rogers arrived before the city, bearing the olive- 
branch : a reciprocation of civilities took place — mutual salutes 
were fired, and the seven men, arrested by Duncan at the Falklands, 
were surrendered on the ground that they had acted under the 
orders of Vemet, now acknowledged to be an officer of high civil 
and military rank under the repubUc. This " era of good feelings," 
however, continued but a short time : the peace-offering was not 
sufficient to appease the angry gods of Argentum. When the 
chamber of deputies met, which was about the middle of May, 
the governor, in his public message, again alluded to the " scan- 
dalous" acts of Duncan, and assured the deputies that a minister 
was daily expected from the United States, who would doubtless 
be instructed to offer reparation for his outrages. This public 
manifestation of the governor convinced Commodore Rogers 
that no amicable feeling existed towards the United States on the 
part of the government. He had pursued a course of conduct 
of the most conciUatory character; but the governor, without 
waiting the arrival of the minister, who was momentarily ex- 
pected, and who, according to his belief, was authorized to offer 
reparation, renewed, in an official document of the highest char- 
acter, the insolent and irritating language of subordinates, and ap- 
plied it again to the second officer of the squadron. The conuno- 
dore ordered his officers on board their ships, which then lay in 
the outer roads : returned to his own, where he was taken sick, 
and soon after died. 

It is proper to pause here and examine the conduct of Captain 
Duncan, with a view to ascertain whether the violent reproaches 
which have been cast upon him by the government of Buenos 
Ayres are founded on justice. This gallant and patriotic com- 



1884.] FALKLAND ISLAKIMI. 493 

mander is ^eadf and he bore to his grave the scars of wounds 
which were received in fighting the battles of his country : — ^that 
country must honour his memory, unless his fame has been tar- 
nished by his memorable transactions at the Falkland Islands. 
What he did there has been related already : — ^he resorted to force, 
and it remains to be seen whether the circumstances would war- 
rant its appUcation. 

Louis Vemet, by virtue of the decree of June tenth, eighteen 
hundred and twenty-nine, claimed the right of capturing Ameri- 
can vessels engaged in the fisheries at the Falkland Islands and 
their adjacencies. He did capture such vessels, and discovered 
in his proceedings more of the character of a pirate than of a 
high officer of a regular government, by disposing of their cargoes 
without adjudication, and imprisoning and maltreating the seamen. 
Previous to his interference, we had been accustomed to use the 
waters there for the purposes of fishery as freely as the waters on 
our own coasts. The decree imder which he pretended to act, 
and firom which he derived his authority, had never been conunu- 
nicated or made known to the American government or their rep- 
resentative at Buenos Ayres. It was issued by a government, de- 
nominated by the existing government, a mutiny. A government 
never acknowledged by them to be legitimate, — not existing ac- 
cording to constitutional forms or popular election, but usurped in 
a military sedition, which was signalized by the murder of the 
chief magistrate of the repubUc : resisted in arms from its com* 
mencement : the resistance continued until it was overthrown, and 
all its acts declared void by a decree, signed by Governor Rosas 
himself, and the very persons whose names were affixed to the 
decree of the tenth of June had been banished as political male- 
factors. The government, in their correspondence with the consul, 
had evaded the avowal of Vemet as their officer : the capture of 
the Harriet they had denominated '^ an affair of a private litigious 
nature," as " a private contentious affair ;" and no presumptions 
arising from the circumstances could have warranted a beUef that 
the captures were authorized originally by them. On his arrival 
at the islands. Captain Duncan found none of the outward marks 
which indicate sovereign jurisdiction : none of the badges and 
emblems of national authority : neither soj^iers, flags, foitreSses^ 
nor national vessels. The colony was composed of GenniQBy 



•*i. 



■^: 



494 TOTAOB OF THB POTOMAC. [Maxcb, 

Englishmen, North Americans, Montevideans, and Buenos Ayreans 
— ^the two last, for the most part (as it is said), were the sweepings 
of the prisons at Montevideo and Buenos Ayres. There were do 
indications of a national colony authorized by law, nothing but a 
band of wild and lawless adventurers. A German, naturalized in 
North America, had delegated his powers to a citizen of the United 
States (one Metcalf, from Portland, in Maine), and directed him 
to seize the vessels, and imprison the persons of his own country- 
men ; and the principal agent in his outrages against the fisher- 
men was one Matthew Brisbane, a British subject. Duncan in- 
tended no insult to the authorities of Buenos Ayres ; but under his 
general instructions to protect American commerce and American 
citizens, he did his duty. 

While things were in this unsettled state, and early in June, 
eighteen hundred and thirty-two, the Honourable Francis Baylies, 
who had been appointed charge dWaires from the United States 
to the Argentine Republic, arrived at Buenos Ayres in the sloop- 
of-war Peacock. Mr. Baylies had left the United States before 
the news of Captain Duncan^s transactions at the FaUdands had 
reached this country ; and instead of being instructed, according 
to the suggestions of the governor of the chamber of deputies, to 
oflfer reparation and indemnity for Duncan's act, he was instructed 
to demand reparation and indemnity for Vemet's acts ; which in- 
structions, when he had ascertained that every attempt at honour- 
able conciliation had failed, he carried into effect, by addressing 
the communication of June twentieth to the minister of grace 
and justice tlien charged with tlie department of foreign affairs, 
Don Manuel Vicente de Maza. In this communication the acts 
of Temet were set forth at large, which were followed with sun- 
dry conunents. With respect to the discrimination made by Ver- 
net between English and American vessels, Mr. BayUes said 
" that it might happen that nations would sometimes mistake their 
rights and attempt to establish sovereign jurisdiction over territo- 
ries not clearly their own, or to which their title might be dis- 
puted ; and that other nations, whose rights might be affected by 
such assumptions, were not necessarily obliged, in the first instance, 
perhaps, to regard acts enforcing such jurisdiction as intrinsically 
and absolutely hostile, if their operation were equal and indiscrimi- 
nating. But if the citizens or subjects of one nation only are sub* 









1 834.] rALKLAND ISLANDS. 496 

jected to penalties and punishments for violations of sovereign 
jurisdiction so assumed, while the subjects or citizens of other 
nations, committing the same violations, are unmolested, such par- 
tial selection is evidence of hostile feeling, at least, in the officer 
to whom the authority to punish is delegated ; and the government 
which justifies an officer who thus favours and spares the one, and 
punishes the other, when both are in pari delictUy must be con« 
sidered as avowing a preference injurious and hostile to the nation 
which suffers." 

He also called the attention of the government to the period 
when Vemet commenced his system of depredation, which was 
soon after the death of Mr. Forbes, " choosing a time for the ex- 
ercise of his powers in acts of despotism, when no high diplo- 
matic functionary was there to advocate and protect the interests 
and rights of his countrymen." 

He utterly denied the right of the Argentine Republic " to in- 
terrupt, molest, detain, or capture any vessels belonging to citi- 
zens of the United States, or any persons being citizens of those 
states, engaged in taking seals, or whales, or any species of fish 
or marine animals, in any of the waters, or on any of the shores 
or lands of the Falkland Islands," or the other islands mentioned 
in the decree of the tenth of June, and claimed a restitution of all 
the captured vessels and property, and indemnity for all Ameri- 
can citizens who had been aggrieved ; and he respectfully sug- 
gested the restoration of the consul to. his functions, until the 
views of the govertiment of the United States could be ascer- 
tained, declaring that the American government had always re- 
spected the feelings of the people among whom their cdoinils 
resided. 

This communication was answered by the minister of foreign 
affairs on the twenty-fifth of June, stating merely that explanations 
would be sought from Vemet, on which the governor would form 
his judgment and pronounce, " without pretending to impair the 
private rights of the citizens of the United States who might be 
aggrieved or injured, or to sacrifice either to exorbitant preten- 
sions those of Don Louis Vemet, and much less those public 
rights which, by the common law of nations, belonged to the Ar- 
gentine Republic as a sovereign and independent state." No 



fi 



496 TOYAOS OF THE POTOMAC. [HaXCb, 

answer was giyen to the intimation respecting the resUnration of 

the consul. 

On the next day Mr. BayUes answered this note. He denied 
the necessity of delay for further explanations, inasmuch as Yer- 
net had admitted, under his own signature, in the public news- 
papers of the city, that he had captured American vessels, and 
the Harriet was then detained in the port by virtue of a process 
from a tribunal under the jurisdiction of the government. '* The 
aggravations with which the injuries on the persons and property 
of American citizens were accompanied, could not affect tho 
principle assumed by the government of the United States, but 
were only important in ascertaining the measure and magnitude 
of those injuries," inasmuch as that government not only denied 
the right to Vemet, but the right of the Argentine Republic to 
inflict them. " His excellency has been pleased to say (he con- 
tinued) that the public rights, which, by the common law of nations, 
belong to the Argentine Republic, as a sovereign and independent 
state, he will not pretend to sacrifice ; to this he could only say, 
that the government which he represented had neither the inten- 
tion or the disposition to bring into question any of the rights of the 
Argentine RepubUc, but they wished distinctly to know from the 
government whether it claimed any right or authority to detain, 
or capture, or in any way to molest, interrupt, or impede the ves- 
sels or the citizens of the United States, while engaged in fish- 
ing in the waters, or on the shores of the Falkland Islands, and 
the other places already mentioned." 

To thi3 note a reply was made on the tenth of July, stating 
the determination of the governor '*not to surrender questions 
which had immediate connexion, in order to anticipate an answer, 
which JBtppeaijed to be the desire of the charge" — '' and not to 
ventive Ids judgment in any case." 

It would seem that the government, although they had probably 
determined on their course, were puzzled as to the mode of pro- 
ceeding, and the nature of the questions, not knowing exactly 
whether they should ccmsider them as public or private questions. 
They were anxious for a delay, and probably supposed that they 
might mystify the negotiation by blending the questions, and 
evading a direct answer to his plain and direct inquiries. The 



♦ * 



1834.] FINLAND IBLANDt. 497 

charge probably perceiTed their drift, and pressed the negotiaticm 
forward. 

On the eleventh of July he addressed a cool and dispassionate 
note to the minister of foreign afiairs, accompanied by an argu- 
ment which embraced, in estenso, all the topics in dispute. 

He commenced by saying, that as the plain inquiry, which he 
had submitted in his note of the twenty-sixth of June, had ndt 
been answered, he must take it for granted that the inquiry wa^ 
considered futile, inasmuch as the rights of the Argentine Repub- 
lic to the exclusive fishery at the islands had been asserted in 
the decree of June tenth, eighteen hundred and twenty-nine^ and 
in the correspondence between Mr. Slacum, the consul, and Don 
Tomas Manuel de Anchorena, and in the proclamation of the 
fourteenth of February, and in the circular of the delegate 
government in which Vemet was styled the civil and miUtary 
governor of the Falkland Islands, &c. : but inasmuch as the de- 
cree, the proclamation, and the circular had never been commu- 
nicated to his government, and inasmuch as the diplomatic char- 
acter of the consul was positively denied, and his functions sub- 
sequently suspended, " he felt some solicitude to obtain an avowal 
of the claim made distinctly to himself, as the accredited repre- 
sentative of the United States :" — but as the inouiry had not been 
answered, be should act on the presumption ot its having been 
maintained by the Argentine government, and would, therefore, 
lay before the minister the views which his government had taken * 
of the questions in issue, which, being Well considered, he hoped 
would produce a happy termination of the unpleasant controversy 
which had arisen. Although the Argentine Republic bad been • . ^ 
the aggressors, having first employed force, fjki tbf lefoie it was u» 
incumbent on them to prove their rights before their justificatttm 
could be made good, yet the charg6 waved the advantage, and , 
undertook to prove — that they had no such rights. With whal^ 
success remains to be seen. The question was stated by him, 
in this manner : J'* * 

'' The Argentine Republic claims sovereignty and jurisdiction 
over the Falkland Islands, Terra del Fuego, Cape Horn, and . t^^' 
the islands adjacent in the Atlantic Ocean, by virtue of having 
succeeded to the sovereign rights of Spain over these regions. 

" As these sovereign rights, thus claimed, are altogether deriva* 

1 1 



498 YOYAOE OF THE POTOMAC. [Marcb, 

live from Spain, the first inquiry naturally- divides itself into two 
branches. 

" First — Had Spain any sovereign rights oyer the above-men- 
tioned places ? 

" Second — Did the Argentine Republic succeed to those rights ? 

" If it can be shown that Spain had no such rights, the ques- 
tion is terminated, unless the Argentine Republic should abandon 
all title under Spain, and claim an absolute vested sovereignty, 
original in itself. 

''If it should be shown afBrmatively that Spain had such 
rights, then it must be as clearly shown that the Argentine Re- 
public succeeded to them; and if that can be shovm, then it 
must also be shown that the Argentine RepubUc had authority to 
capture and detain American vessels and American citizens en- 
gaged in the fisheries at those places, without notifying the 
American government, or its representative here, officially, of such 
assumptions and such claims.^' 

The charge further stated, that the United States claimed no 
more than the privileges '' which they had been accustomed to 
exercise in common with other maritime nations." 

He then proceeded to discuss the nature of the title which 
civilized nations acquired over countries not inhabited, or inhabit- 
ed only by savages, by prior discovery, taking formal posses- 
sion, and by prior occupation. This branch of the argument was 
extended to a considerable length, but our limits forbid us from 
saying more than he admitted, that conditional rights accrued from 
discovery and taking formal possession, and positive rights firom 
occupation. 

He then carefully traced the progressive discovery of these 
islands. 

Ferdinand Magellan, a Portuguese in the service of the Em- 
peror Charles V., entered the strait which bears his name in 
October, fifteen hundred and twenty, and was probably the origi- 
nal discoverer of the southern coast of Patagonia, and the northern 
coast of Terra del Fuego : — ** More fortunate (says Mr. Baylies) 
than Coluoibus, he not only left an undying name to the strait 
which he traversed, but he has fixed it eternally in the celestial 
regions of the southern hemisphere." Magellan made the first 
attempt to circumnavigate the world ; but, before the voyage was 



IBM.J FALKLAND I8LAMD8. 490 

completed, he was killed at the Ladrones, in fifteen hundred and 
twenty-one. In fifteen hundred and twenty-seven, Groaca de 
Loaisa, a knight of Malta, in the service of Spain, passed the 
strait, but his squadron of seven ships was lost, and he, with all 
his men, perished. Sebastian Cabot, Amerigo Vespucci, and 
Simon de Alcazara, made abortive attempts to pursue the same 
route. Cabot was the first person who explored the Rio de la 
Plata. '' These repeated failures disheartened the Spaniards, and 
they gave over all attempts at discovery for many years." 

• Sir Francis Drake, the great English circumnavigator, passed 
the Strait of Magellan in fifteen hundred and seventy-eight, and 
was driven by storms beyond fifty-seven degrees of south latitude, 
" where (says the writer of his voyage) we beheld the extremity 
of the American coast, and the confluence of the Atlantic and 
Southern Oceans." Mr. Baylies is correct in supposing that 
Drake discovered Cape Horn, and the western and southwestern 
coast of Terra del Puego. 

So little was known of the southeastern coast of Terra del 
Fuego, as late as seventeen hundred and seventy-four, that Cooke^ 
when actually in sight of Cape Horn, was unable to decide 
whether it was a detached island, or a part of the great island of 
Terra del Fuego. He laid down with much accuracy the head- 
lands, bays, and harbours of the southeastern coast of the latter 
island. 

The discovery of Cape Horn has generally been ascribed 
to Jacob Le Maire, a Dutchman in the service of the States of 
Holland, who was the first who doubled that terminus of South 
America, in sixteen hundred and sixteen. He called it Cape 
Hoorn, from a village in Holland. To the strait between Terra 
del Fuego and Staten-land Le Maire has attached his own name. 
Staten-land was so called in honour of the States of Holland. 

It is supposed that Davies, an Englishman, and a companion of 
Cavendish in his voyage to the South Seas in fifteen hundred 
and ninety-two, was the first person who saw the Falkland 
Islands. 

In fifteen hundred and ninety-four, Sir Richard Hawkins dis- 
covered these islands, and called them, in honour of his queen 
and himself, Hawkins' Maiden-land. 

In fifteen hundred and ninety-eight,^ they were seen by a Dutch 

ii2 



600 VOTAOB OF THE POTOMAC. [Mttcfa, 

squadron under the command of Admiral Verhagen and Sebald 
de Wert, and i^ere called by them Sebald's Islands. This name 
appears in the ancient Dutch charts ; and Dampier,, who.Tisited 
them in sixteen hundred and eighty-three, calls the islands the 
Sibbet de Wards. They were called the Falkland Islands by 
Strong, an EngUsh navigator, in sixteen hundred and eighty-nine, 
and that name has been adopted by the English geographers and 
men of science, particularly by Dr. Halley. The journal of 
Strong yet exists, unprinted, in the British Museum. 

The French, who visited these islands between the years seven- 
teen hundred and seventeen hundred and eight, called diem 
MalouineSf which name the Spaniards have adopted. The honour 
of the discovery was claimed by the French ; but Frezier, a French 
voyager to these seas, admits them to have been discovered by 
Sir Richard Hawkins, and such is the opinion of the great French 
geographer Malte Brun. 

If this relation of the progress of discovery in these regions 
be correct, and we see no reason for doubt, Spain coiuld have 
gained but a feeble title on the ground of priority of discovery : 
certainly none that would apply to the southern, eastern, and 
western coasts of Terra del Fuego, Cape Horn, Staten-land, and 
the Falkland Islands ; the honours of discovery there being divi- 
ded between the English and the Dutch. 

If the title of Spain was ever valid, Mr. Baylies contended 
that its validity was unimpaired — that Spain had never renounced 
it, and had not even then acknowledged the independence of the 
Argentine Republic : that it was as perfect and entire then as it 
was previous to the independence of the South American repub- 
lics. The rights of Spain, if dormant, were not extinct, and she 
had the ability to maintain them. 

Following a suggestion of Mr. Baylies, we have viewed this 
question in another light. Buenos Ayres, or the Argentine Repub- 
lic, claimed sovereignty over the islands by virtue of the revolution 
of May twenty-fifth, eighteen hundred and ten, when the authority 
of Spain was renounced: while the authority of the king was 
acknowledged until eighteen hundred and sixteen. If, during the 
period between eighteen hundred and ten and eighteen hun- 
dred and sixteen, Ferdinand VII. had undertaken to occupy 
the islands in question, according to the manner of sovereigns, 



18M.] FALKULKD IBLAKIMI. 501^ 

with garrisons and colonies, would Ferdinand YIL, King of 
Buenos Ayres, have declared war against Ferdinand YII., King 
of Spain and tke Indies, for an invasion of sovereignty and juris- 
diction? And would Buenos Ajnres, like the long parliament of 
England, have fought against the king in the name of the king ? 

The charge also contended, that if it were admitted that the 
sovereign rights of Spain were vested in the ancient- viceroyalty 
of Rio de la Plata, by virtue of the revolution of • May twenty- 
fifth, eighteen hundred and ten, those rights could not have been 
vested in the Argentine RepubUc, because that republic constituted 
only one of the four nations into which the viceroyalty was di- 
vided, and could not show the releases of the others; and that 
the Oriental RepubUc of Yruquay, commonly called the Banda 
Oriental, Paraguay, and Bolivia, all independent nations, had 
equal rights to the possession of the islands in question with the 
Argentine Republic. The charg6 might have pushed the argu- 
ment on this ground still further : there is no Argentine Republic : 
a number of provinces, once connected by a very feeble and im- 
perfect tie, assumed that name, and did, for a short period, ac- 
knowledge a common government ; but that confederation was 
dissolved, and each province became independent: before the 
dissolution, however, a quasi power to manage the foreign rela-* 
tions was conferred on Buenos Ayres ; but the other provinces 
regard no stipulations with foreign nations, made by Buenos 
Ayres, as obligatory on them, unless they are pleased to make - 
them so. Between these provinces, being twelve or fifteen in 
number, there is no existing political dependant connexion ; and 
they are all independent nations, with all the attributes of sov- 
ereignty ; and each on^ as much entitled to the possession of the 
Falklands and the adjacent islands as Buenos Ayres : and yet, in 
fact, Buenos Ayres is the only party in interest ; and on this mere 
fragment of a right, according to their own showing, have all these 
overweening pretensions to sovereign power, over islands distant 
a thousand miles from their continental possessions, been set up. 

Mr. Baylies asks '* if the Argentine Republic, claiming no ori- 
ginal title or rights but such only as were derivative from Spain, 
could assume any higher title than that which Spain assumed ; 
and Spain certainly never assumed any right to capture or 
detain American vessels or American citizens engaged in the 



^602 roTAOB ov THB POTOMAC. [Marcfa, 

fisheries at these islands.'' He quoted a provision in the treaty 
of San Lorenzo el Real, made between Spain and Great Britain 
on the twenty-eighth of October, seventeen hundred and ninety, 
in which it was stipulated mutually, that no settlements should be 
made on the islands in question by either party ; but that the 
waters and the shores might be used by the subjects of each 
for the purposes of the fishery. Can it be supposed that Spain, 
& nation jealous of her rights and sovereignty, and peculiarly 
sensitive on the subject of her South American dominions, 
would have virtually abandoned her sovereign rights over these 
wide regions, if she supposed her title to be well founded, and free 
from doubt ? There could be no dispute as to the real object of 
the treaty, which was to leave an open fishery in these regiotis. 

In the year seventeen hundred and sixty-four, a squadbron was 
ordered to the South Seas by the King of Great Britain, George 
III., which was placed imder the command of the Honourable 
John Byron. In his instructions it is asserted, that the Falkland 
Islands were first discovered by English navigators ; and he was 
directed to survey them. On the twenty-third of January, seven- 
teen hundred and sixty-five. Commodore Byron took possession 
of the Falkland Islands, with all the usual solemnities, in the 
name of the King of Great Britain. 

On the eighth of January, seventeen hundred and sixty-six. 
Captain Macbride arrived at Port Egmont with a military force, 
erected a block-house, and stationed a garrison, under the au- 
thority of Great Britain. Some attempts at cultivation were made, 
and several thousand young trees, with the mould about their roots, 
were brought from Port Famine Bay for the purpose of being re- 
set at the Falklands. All these proceedings were had by oider 
of the King of Great Britain, "and as to all -consequent rights 
the occups^on was complete." 

It is a well-known fact, however, that some Frenchmen 
had made a temporary establishment on one of the Falkland 
Islands about this period, and that in consequence of a remon- 
strance made by Spain, the King of France ceded all his right to 
those islands to his Catholic majesty. If the doctrine assiuned 
by Spain was correct, — ^that France had not even a colourable 
title — the cession was a nullity ; and it is a fact that Spain so re- 



I « 



1834.] FALKLAND ISLANDS. 603 

garded it, and relied on her pmr righto alone in her subsequent 
controversy with Great Britain. 

On the tenth of June, seventeen hundred and seventy, the 
British were dispossessed by a Spanish force, when their title had 
been placed on the triple ground of prior discovery, formal pos- 
session, and actual occupation ; and the islands being uninhabited, 
there was no aboriginal title to be extinguished. 

The act of dispossession was disavowed by Spain, and the 
islands restored. Great Britain. Resumed possession, and then vol- 
untarily abandoned the islands ; but avers that she did not relin- 
quish them. 

" It is true (says Mr. Baylies) that many years have elapsed, 
since, under these circumstances, she ceased to occupy the Falk- 
land Islands : but the lapse of time cannot prevent her from re- 
suming possession, if her own maxim of law be well founded^ 
nullum tempus occurit regi^ — and that she persisted in her claim 
was evident, from the protest of November, eighteen hundred and 
twenty-nine, a copy of which had been communicated to him 
officially by his excellency Henry S. Fox, her minister neat tha,t 
government. Mr. Baylies thought this protest must have been 
overlooked, when Don Tomas Manuel de Ancherona, the former 
minister of foreign affairs, had Asserted, in his correspondence 
with the American consul, that, until then, nobody had questioned 
the righto of the Argentine Republic ; for he had in his possession 
a copy of the official acknowledgment of its receipt, also com- 
municated to him officially by the British envoy. 

We have always thought that it was a silly and unfounded 
censure cast upon our charg^, in the government newspapers of 
Buenos Ayres, for this expose of the British title. He stoted 
nothing, as we can perceive, but historical facto, of such notorie^ 
that no British stotesman could have been presumed to be igno- 
rant of them. It seems his object was to persuade the govern- 
ment of Buenos Ayres, that their title to the Falklands was not 
so indubitoble as they supposed, for the purpose of inducing them 
to relinquish the high ground which they had taken against his 
country, and therefore he gave them a view of the strength of 
the British title ; and they, in their wisdom, instead of placing his 
argument with the British protest in the secret places of their 
archives, thought proper to publish it ; and then, through the me* 



# 



604 TOYAOS OV THB POTOMAC. [MaTcll, 

dium of their newspapers, charged their own imprudence upon 
him ! 

Our charge contended further, that if the Argentine Republic 
had even acquired the entire rights of sovereignty over the islands 
in question, yet even those rights were not such as to justify the 
republic in excluding citizens of the United States from the use 
of the fisheries. On this point he brought the argument to the 
following conclusions : 

" First — That the right of the United States to the ocean fish- 
ery, and in the bays, arms of the sea, gulfs, and other inlets in- 
capable of being fortified — is perfect and entire. 

** Second — That the right on the ocean within a marine league 
of the shore, where the approach cannot be injurious to the sov- 
ereign of the country, as it cannot be on uninhabited regions, or 
such as are occupied by savages — is equally perfect. 

" Third — That the shores of such regions can be used as beely 
as the waters : a right arising from the same principles. 

" Fourth — That a constant and uninterrupted use of the shores 
for the purposes of a fishery, would give the right perfect and 
entire — although settlements on such shores should be subse- 
quently formed or established.'^ 

He contended, that if long and uninterrupted use could impart 
a right, the right of the United States was unimpeachable ; and 
to prove that the right may be so acquired, he cited Vattel, book 
i., ch. xxiii., ^ 287, where it is laid down as a rule, that if a nation 
has once acknowledged the common right of other nations to use 
fisheries on its own coasts, it cannot afterward exclude them : 
the fishery was then left in its primitive freedom, at least, with 
respect to those who had been accustomed to take advantage of 
it; and so the English not having originally taken exclusive pos- 
session of the herring-fisheries on their coasts, il has become 
common to them with other nations. 

The acknowledgment spoken of in such cases may be ex- 
press or implied. A long-continued use, without interruption, 
is a virtual acknowledgment of the right to use ; and in the in- 
stance cited— the herring-fisheries on the English coasts them 

h)as been no formal acknowledgment on the part of England, thai 
other nations have a right to use that fishery : from the acquies- 
cence of England, the acknowledgment is inferred. 



18340 FALKLAND ISLANDS. M6 

He then examined the quettion on the hypotheds of a sov- 
ereignty so perfect^ that all the rights claimed by the Argentine 
Repulse would spring from it — yet he contended that there were 
preliminary acts to be performed before the capture and deten- 
tion of the persons or property of American citizens could be 
justified. If regions (said he) not occupied, or brought under 
any positive jurisdiction, without garrisons, or naval forces, or 
inhabitants — are to be occupied and brought under civil or military 
rule, and those who have enjoyed the privilege of a free fishery 
there are to be excluded from that privilege, it is incumbent on 
the nations assuming such powers to give official notice to the 
resident representatives, or to the governments of all nations with 
whom relations of amity are maintained, before any acts of vio- 
lence, in assertion of such sovereign rights, can be justified. A 
warning to individuals was not enough, for that was not a general 
notice ; and individuals not warned might incur forfeitures and 
penalties without any knowledge of their liabilities, and their 
governments, equally ignorant, could take no preventive means for 
;*' ' their security; and that laws or decrees enforcing penalties for 

such offences, not made known to the nations whose citizens or 
subjects were liable to fall te of cannon, &c., in presence of the officers and crews 
of several Enghsh and American vessels. From this account it 



.4 

i 



61S TOTAin or m roroiuc. [Kncb^ 

W0old appeaTf that^itlie ict wm not perfomied in baUlf of the 
Aigentine Republic, but for the goreniment of Buenot Ajiei • 

1£ Don Darid Jewett took possefliion under a aahne, from 
whence came the guns ? Vexnet aays he landed them. If so, 
they muat have been taken from a vesael— why ia the name of 
the TCMel auj^nesaed ? 

We have KMue recoliectimi of having heard of ayeiael called the 
Heroine, which, ill amne publication of Goremor Yeinet, waf digni- 
fied by the name and atyle of the national corvette Heroine. This 
yesael sailed from Buenos Ayres in eighteen hundred and twenty, 
and in the same year Tisited the Falkland Islands, beaig under 
the command of one David Jewett She was unfoitunste— 4iaT- 
ing been captured by the Portuguese frigate Perda, off Cape 
Spartel, cm the twentieth of March, eig^iteen hundred and twenty- 
two, — the kingdom of Portugal and the Aigentine RepuUic, as 
to each other, then being in a state of profound peace. Notwith- 
standing, the Heroine was condemned in the court of admiralty 
at Lisbon, as a lawful priie to the captors, her uflicen and crew 
having been found guilty of many aggravated acts of piracy. 
Jewett was ML the commander at the time of the captoie.* Did 
he abandon her at the Falklands ? Was the plunder of the first 
cruise shared there ? If the Heroine was a national corvette, 
the national loss was greater in amount than the damages done 
Vernet's colony by Captain Duncan. We have heard of no rec- 
lamations — ^no denunciations of the Portuguese for this '' Vandal" 
outrage on the Argentine flag : this capture of " a national cor- 
vette," in a period of profound peace : — this seizure of the very 
guns which (if it was the vessel commanded by David Jewett) 
had solemnized the great act by which a nation proclaimed her 
sovereignty over a great region. If the David Jewett, Coronet de 
Marina of Vemet, are identical, there would seem to be a won- 
derful congruity in all things relating to this celebrated settle- 
ment. A symmetry, fitness, and adaptation of parts, disclosing 
the perfection of the original design. The guns of a pirate an- 
nounced the sovereign rights of the — ^Argentine Republic ! The 
ceremonies might have been rendered more appropriate and ex- 
act, by burying a chest of money with its usual accompaniments ! 

* She WM than under command of one Mtton, an EngKriiman, who took 
charge of her at the Falkland Islands. 



1834.] FALKLAND ISLANDS. 513 

After the rupture of the negotiations, one Mestivier, a French- 
man, was appointed civil and military commandant of the Falk- 
land Islands and their dependances in the Atlantic Ocean ; on 
the tenth of September, the appointment was* promulgated by a 
decree, signed by Rosas, the governor, and Balcarse, the minister 
of war and marine. The whole naval force of this maritime 
republic, which claimed to hold so many remote islands as colo- 
nies, being the Sarandi, a schooner of six or eight guns, was put 
in requisition to convey the goverrior, his suite, garrison, and col- 
ony, to the islands. A bloody mutiny broke out soon after his 
arrival, and the governor was assassinated. 

Notwithstanding the form, parade, and publicity which attended 
this new demonstration of the claim of sovereignty, the settlement 
was again broken up by C?iptain Onslow,* of the British ship-of- 
war Clio, who rivalled Duncan in deeds of violence. John Bull 
had ships, and seamen, and commerce, and had no greater love 
for pirates than Jonathan. The wrath of the Argentine govern- 
ment was turned against that respectable nation, which bad been 
represented by them, in their correspondence with Mr. Baylies, 
as incapable of such acts. The captain of the Clio resumed the 
possession of the islands in the name of William lY . No regular 
military garrison has as yet been placed there by Great Britain. 
Some of the settlers were left, among whom was Brisbane, the 
Scotchman, the agent of Vemet. To complete the melodramc, 
or rather the mingled farce and tragedy of the Falkland Island 
settlement, Brisbane has been murdered. 

Though a person by the name of Smith, of whose office or 
character nothing is known, has lately warned sealers not to visit 
these islands, — still it is presumed they can do so with perfect 
safety. If they are molested, it is an easy sail for one of our 
sloops-of war on the Brazil station to run down there and break 
up Mr. Smith. 

Buenos Ayres has been in trouble too. Rosas, the governor, 

* In January, eighteen hundred and thirty-three, Captain Onslow took possession 
of these islands, and hoisted the British colours under a salute ; hauling down at the 
same time the Buenos Ajrean flag, and sending it on board the schooner Sarandi, 
with a message, that it was a foreign flag, found on British soil. The Buenos Ayrean 
go?emment, through an agent at London, has protested against this occupation, 
without having, as yet, received any assurance, on the part of Great Britain, of hn 
intentiona to abandon the islands. 

Kk 



't 



514 voTAOE OF THE POTOMAC. [March, 

resigned, not long after the rupture of the negotiations, and took 
the command of the army of the interior, as it is called. The 
office of governor was conferred on Don Juan Ramon Balcarse. 
A revolution was enacted. Balcarse was overthrown and exiled, 
and escaped to the Banda Oriental. Viamonte, who is the locum 
tenens in all changes, was appointed governor. The people were 
not satisfied, and three times was the government tendered to the 
real Caesar, Don Juan Manuel de Rosas, " which he did thrice 
refuse." Twice has it been offered to Don Tomas Manuel de 
Ancherona and refused. It was finally accepted by De Maza, 
the former minister of grace and justice. The civil government 
has the mere shadow of authority : the treasury is empty — ^feuds and 
factions distract this imhappy country. Good men — enlightened 
and patriotic men, there are in this country, but they have no 
affinity with the moral elements which surround them. The 
seminal principle of firee institutions is there, but it is like the 
roots of the trees in the Pampas, as soon as it shoots above the 
earth, the pamparo of a revolution stops its growth, — ^the hopes 
of the better people are constantly blasted ; time alone can bring 
a remedy ! 

The government of Buenos Ayres have repeatedly assured 
the government of the United States that they would send a min- 
ister to this country, but none has appeared. It is not probable 
that any new outrages will be committed on our commerce or 
citizens. Should any be attempted, the cannon of our ships will 
negotiate a settlement more effectually than the most accomplished 
diplomatist. 

If Great Britain should advance any pretensions to the ex- 
clusive use of the fisheries at the Fakklands, it is to be hoped 
that such pretensions will be as sti^nuously resisted as were 
those of the Argentine Republic — ihdeed, more strenuously — 
for we could afford to laugh at the empty bluster and sounding 
bravadoes of the Argentines, and smile at the pompous preten- 
sions of a province with a population of less tha» two hundred 
thousand — but should the empress of islands come into the field 
of controversy with the same pretensions, she must be met as 
an equal in the family of nations ; and while we carefully abstain 
firom all encroachments on her rights, our own should be defended 
witb unflinching vigour and firmness. 



1884.] icsBBROS. 516 



CHAPTER XXX. 

Passage north of the Falkland Islands— Icebergs — Perilous situation of the Potomac 
— Arriral at Rio— Naval etiquette— Excursion up the Bay — Island of Paquet»— 
National festiyal — SaM for the United States— ArriTal at Boston — Public de- 
spatches — Splendid ball on board — End of the voyage. 

After passing the Falkland Islands we stood on to the north, 
shaping oyr course for Rio de Janeiro. On the morning of the 
seventeenth of March, at an early hour, land was reported from 
the look-out aloft. The commodore was on deck, and though the 
outlines of the object ahead could be clearly seen, in despite of 
the mist, no one believed that an island was to be met with north 
of the Falklands, which had for centuries remained imdiscovered) 
in the conunon highway of nations. A short time removed all 
uncertainty ; as we bore down under a heavy press of sail, a 
towering iceberg, shrouded in a cold mist and fog, was moving 
slowly on, by the power of deep currents, from the gloomy and 
cheerless regions of the south. 

" Thus in the Atlantic, oft the sailor eyes, 
While melting in the reign of softer skies, 
Some Alp of ice, from polar region blown, — 
Hail the glad influence of a warmer zone.** 

It moved along with awful, but not solitary grandeur, being but 
one of a squadron which successively rose to the view ; so that 
in sailing more than two degrees, we occasionally encountered 
these floating pyramids — now clothed in vapour, and again show- 
ing forth in a pure, cold, and silvery brightness. On the morning 
of the nineteenth the Potomac was for a moment in imminent 
peril, as she dashed through between two of these crystal towers, 
the large hummucks grating along her sides with a force that 
showed the power of their resistance. " Hard down the helm !" 
resounded on deck, and the order was instantly obeyed, followed 
again by the harsh grating of the ice along the sides an3 Copper 
of the vessel. For a moment, the frigate bore off in perfect 

Kk2 



516 YOYAOB OF THE POTOMAC. [Maich, 

obedience to her helm ; when an iceberg on the other bow requi- 
red the counter order, " hard up the helm ! steady ! steady ! she 
will now go clear !" and our noble ship passed out unscathed ! — 
To manage a vessel under such circumstances requires the highest 
exertion of nautical skill. 

It is not easy to do justice to the profession of the sailor. His 
noblest efforts are witnessed only by the few hardy spirits who 
are themselves actors along with him. Not so in other professions. 
The persuasive accents of the pulpit orator fall upon the cars of 
an attentive and tranquil audience, and by the numerous chords 
of human sympathies are preserved and extended to a crowded cir- 
cle ; the resistless advocate, while in the courts of justice he pleads 
the cause of injured innocence, or stays the strong arm of the 
proud oppressor, is surrounded by multitudes, who can pay horn* 
age to his eloquence ; the erudite judge records his opinions, and 
his name will be referred to in the coming time ; while the vener- 
able senator, it may be said, by means of the press^ speaks to a 
listening nation, and not unfrequently to an admiring world ; the 
artist, whose pencil imparts life to the " glowing canvass," leaves 
the impress of his genius to mellow and improve with time ; the 
writer of romance creates and peoples realms of his own, and 
keeps ahve a world of ideal sjrmpathy and passion in the human 
heart ! 

Not so the sailor. Much of tlie grandeur, we might say sub- 
limity, of his profession, is lost to the rest of the world : nor can 
any language breathe into description the imbodied spirit of his 
experience ! While we admire the noble bark, that breasts the 
billows, and moves on battling with the elements until she reaches 
the point of her destination, though it be the farthermost port in the 
known world, yet how much more sublime to our contemplation 
is the intelligence which directs her movements with such unerring 
certainty ! And how often, amid the wide waste of ocean, is that 
intelligence brought to contend with the wild spirit of the storm, 
the goodly ship writhing beneath the angry tempest, while a single 
error in command, or the mind unpoised for an instant, would be 
fatal to all on board. How the good ship, among the proudest 
monuments of the genius of man, still rides on, till the very ele- 
ments have wasted their strength, and wearied themselves into 
repose, in vain attempts for the mastery ! But of this niighty 



1894.] AlftlVAL AT RIO. 517 

• 

struggle, no record is left ; for the sailor, child of the tempest- 
tossed ocean, forgets the grandeur of the scene almost as soon as 
the white caps have ceased to run, or the waters become smooth 
in the wake of his vessel ! 

The dangers of the icebergs passed ; we continued our course 
to the north until the morning of Wedney^^Be twenty-sixth 
of March, when land was again announc^^^H the towering 
sugar-loaf of Rio was soon after visible otHPb frigate's deck; 
and, favoured by the Seabreeze, we succeeded in coming to 
anchor at an early hour. The slpop-of-war Peacock, Captain 
Geisinger, late from her cruise to the East Indies, was lying at 
anchor, and on recognising the Potomac, saluted the broad pennant 
of Commodore Downes, which compliment was returned by the 
usual number of guns. The schooner Boxer, Lieutenant-com- 
mandant Farragut, was also at Rio. On the same day. Commo- 
dore Wolsey came from Montevideo, his broad pennant flying on 
the sloop-of-war Natchez. Salutes with the forts, and the other 
men-of-war in the harbour, were exchanged during the afternoon 
and the following day, Rio being a station of much naval etiquette. 

In addition to our former remarks on this interesting p(»rtion of 
South America we would here observe, that the whole empire of 
Brazil contains a population of not far from five millions. Of 
these, three millions are slaves; one million are free people 
of colour; and one million are whites, or descendants of the 
Portuguese ; and even of this nuiftber we have heard it slated, on 
the best authority, that there were in reality not more than two 
hundred thousand in all Brazil, of unmixed blood !— Our authority 
is Sylvester Rebelo, formjBtoiinister from Brazil to the United 
States, to whom we are j^Bpfcd for other valuable informatioii 
which, we regret, our limfts will not permit us to imbody. 

An interesting celebration occurred at Rio on the twelfth day 
after our arrival, it being Monday, the seventh of April. This 
day is celebrated as the anniveisay of the departure of Don Pedro, 
on which occasion the young emperor, attended by the regents, 
receives visits from all the public functionaries. All our com- 
manders, and a suitable number of officers, were presented to his 
imperial majesty by our minister, Mr. Brown who, being the 
oldest diplomatic agent in Brazil, had the precedence ; and from 
him, also, custom required a short speech. In the evening, a 



518 VOYAGE OF THB POTOMAC. 

splendid imperial ball was given by the members of a society* 
who commemorate the day, ostensibly in anticipation of the cor- 
onation of the young emperor ; but, in fact, to keep alive the spirit 
of hostility to his father, and the mother comitry. His young 
imperial majesty and his august sisters, together with the regency, 
ministers, andjtfjfetaatic corps, attended, as usual, this annual 

To be relie^jHPm the bustle of the ship, we embraced an 
opportunity of vSmng the upper part of the bay, in one of the 
fine ferry-boats which ply between Rio and Praya Grande. Mag- 
nificent as is the harbour at the city, no one can form any con- 
ception of its extent and beauty, unless by taking a wider excur- 
sion for that purpose. Starting early in the morning, the land- 
breeze compelled us to stand over to the opposite side, and make 
our way to the southeast shore. As one advances, numerous 
islands are scattered along at intervals, thickly clothed with orange 
and coffee-trees, with here and there a neat little hut or cot, peer- 
ing above the shrubbery, with gardens attached, filled with the 
richest flowers, and breathing the most delicious odours. 

At about ten miles from the city is the Island of Paqueta, one 
of the largest and most important in the bay. Here are to be 
seen elegant country-seats, and quite a dense population. The 
soil is very rich, producing the sugarcane, plantain, orange, choco- 
late, coffee, and lime-trees, all huddled together ; and sometimes 
apparently from spontaneous growth. 

From this point you have the view of other islands, and the still 
vast expansion of the bay. What a delightful spot — clothed with 
the richest verdure, with various wal|sKamong the trees of delicious 
fruits, and flowers of the most rliUrii| and richest hues. No 
noise — no tumult. We had almostlaia, no motion ! Quiet still- 
ness reigned undisturbed. After having been so long confined to 
the ship, tossed and buffeted about in doubling the stormy Cape, 
and tired with the noise of sailors, and still more with the songs 
and din of the narrow streets of Rio— what a relief — what sweet 
repose ! 

Yes — and then a night away from the dull, but deafening tattoo 
— ^the sharp discharge of the evening and morning gun — ^the 
change of watch — the passing of lanterns — ^the hum of partially- 

• Ciai«d the "Defenden of the National Liberty and Independaac*.*' 



)SS4.] ARRFTAL AT BOSTON. 519 

suppressed voices — the incessant tramp of the lonely watch* ' 
officer — and the call through ihe trumpet to the look-out aloft — 
we repeat, to be free from all thesQ, with a thousand other annoy* 
ances — and to find one's self alone in a peaceful, paradisiacal re- 
treat — ^why, what luxury of solitude ! — what a heaven of rest ! 
To sleep in quiet — dream in peace — and wdM|^ pleasure ; im- 
disturbed by the sudden and tremendous bura^^H^ reveille — this 
is what we experienced at the sweet little luHTof Paqueta ! 

On the morning of Wednesday, the ninth of April, at an early 
hour, we got under way, and, by the aid of boats and a landbreeze, 
soon cleared the harbour. Our passage to the line was tedious, 
nor was there aught of interest until Thursday, the twenty-second 
of May, when we made the land at the entrance of Boston harbour, 
and with a fine breeze ran in, and came to anchor off Boston light- 
house. On the following morning, the tide serving, we stood up 
the isle-speckled bay, and soon came to anchor off the navy-yard, 
at Charlestown. It was a joyous morning — ^for the hardships and 
perils of the cruise were over. 

In his official despatch to the secretary of the navy of this 
date, May twenty-third, the commodore says : " During the cruise 
of the Potomac, she has touched at Rio de Janeiro twice ; Cape 
of Good Hope, Afinca; Quallah-Battoo and Soo-soo, coast of Su- 
matra ; Bantam Bay and Batavia, Island of Java ; Macao and 
Lintin, China ; Sandwich and Spciety Islands ; Valparaiso, thre^ 
times, Callao, the same ; Coquimbo, Payta, Galapagos Islands, 
and Puna, Bay of Guayaquil ; has sailed over sixty-one thousand 
miles, and been at sea five hundred and fourteen days, crossing 
the equator sixtimes, and wjring from 40" north to 57** south 
latitude, while circumnavjgM|[|| the globe ; and during this time, 
she has not had a spar casriAikway, or lost a man by casualty, or 
had one seriously injured." 

During the interval which elapsed in waiting the return of 
despatches from Washington, a party was given by the commo- 
dore and his lady, on board the Potomac, to the circle of their 
numerous friends. It was allowed on all hands to be a beautiful 
and brilliant affair ; every circumstance combined to rende^ it in- 
teresting and delightful, — the frigate had just returned front €iolig 
voyage, of which it formed the closing scene 7 the season was that 



6S0 VOYAGS OF THS POTOMAC. fKaj, 

joyous one in which the highest zest is given to a party of ani- 
mated and elegant enjoyment— rthe flowery month of May, 

" When eyes are bright with pleasure, 
And brows with wreaths are crowned." 

At an early hoiMMjtfie appointed erening, barges were in waiting, 
at the steps q^Hp granite dock, to convey the company on 
board the Potonnc, which lay but a short distance from the 
flhore, so that the passages were made with ease and rapidity. 
The guests were received, as they stepped upon the frigate's deck, 
by an officer, who escorted them from the spar to the gun-deck, 
when another presented them to the commodore and his lady, in 
the after-cabin. This portion of the ship was a place of general 
promenade ; while the spar-deck, from the mainmast to the taf- 
ferel, covered with a spacious awning, constituted the extensive 
and brilliant ball-room, lined and festooned with a beautiful cluster 
of national flags. 

One extremity of this fairy saloon might well have attracted the 
attention and envy of those classical creations of fancy alluded to 
by one of our best poets, Woodworth : 

** Sea-nymphs leave their coral caves, 
Deep beneath the ocean waves, 
Where they string, with tasteful care. 
Pearls upon their sea-green hair ; 
Thetis' virgin train advances, 
Mingling with our joyous dances !" 

The other extremity of it was admirably illuminated by a 
pyramid of light, arranged with singular effect, and with taste un- 
questionable. A circle of muskets constituted its base, their 
barrels being devoted to the office of candlesticks, while the 
upper portions of the novel chandelier were formed, by a sim- 
ilar necromancy, from a multitude of flower-encompassed bay- 
onets. Wreathed about the whole hung roses and tulips of every 
colour the poet could dream of, with every description of leaf 
and evergreen that is composed and arrayed in the ideal triumph 
of beauty. 

Far away, in the other extremity of the saloon, rendering still 
more striking the beautiful perspective, hung a transparency of 



1834.] CONCLUSION. 521 

Washington ; which, as the eye glanced along the illuminated 
distance, glowing with lesser pyramids of light, rose with a new 
lustre upon the view. 

The supper-table was arranged on the starboard side of the 
gun-deck, and light was profusely scattered from its numerous 
fanciful centres, radiating from among banners tastefully fes- 
tooned, and illuminating a scene of various alpi elegant bounty. 

But who would dwell upon the luxuries of the banquet, when 
such loveliness was nigh to engross senses more exalted and re- 
fined ? It would be idle to say.that this aquatic gala was not to 
be surpassed for its brilliant display of female grace and attrac- 
tion, under their thousand forms of witchery, when it is re- 
membered that on board that noble frigate was concentrated so 
much of the beauty of Boston. Fashion never glittered in 
more perfect communion with taste, and wit and intellect never 
sparkled from eyes, or fell from lips, that more admirably told 
their stories ! 

Again the dance went forward; and the revelry of mu^ic, 
and glee, and light hearts, was resumed. Again fairy forms 
floated among the banners, and again gayety and brightness 
flashed from the mazes of the cotillon. And thus the scene con- 
tinued until an hour of which few took note, for all time was 
then centred in the present. But, late or early as may have 
been the " breaking up," the scene was one that cannot be for- 
gotten ! It was deep night — and thick clouds were pouring in 
from the sea, filling the bay with a still deeper gloom ; while the 
thousand lights from the yet resounding frigate, rendered still 
more striking the " darkne«^ Tisible" about her, and threw into a 
wild and strange relief th«J(|hvering outline of her masts and 
spars, against the shifting and.iurid heavens. 

And thus the curtain fell, on this scene of new and elegant fes- 
tivity. But it will be long, indeed, ere the splendour of the 
Potomac's decks, or the unsurpassed beauty which swept them 
on that night, will be found among the dim things of memory. 



€ 



M' 



APPENDIX. 



Naoy Departmenty June 27th, 1831. 
Sn 

Whkn the frigate Potomac is in readiness to leave Norfolk, you will 
proceed to New- York without delay, that her complete preparation and 
equipment may be efTected at the nayy-yard there. 

When she is in every respect ready for sea, which must certainly be 
accomplished by the first day of August next, you wi^ receive on board 
the Honourable Martin Van Buren, minister from the United States to 
England, and his suite, and immediately make sail, shaping your course 
for Portsmouth, on the southern coast of England, or for any other port 
within the British Channel which you may find to be more safe and con- 
venient, where you will land Mr. Van Buren and suite. 

After fulfilling this part of your instructions, you will, with all pntoti- 
cable despatch, direct your course for the Pacific Ocean, and assume the 
command of the naval forces on that station. You will touch on your way 
out at Porto Praya of the Cape de Verd Islands, if not inconvenient, and 
also at Pernambuco, St. Salvador, and Rio de Janeiro, on the coast of 
Brazil ; and communicating with the consuls or commercial agents of the 
United States at these ports, and rendering every lawful aid and protec- 
tion to the persons and property of our citizens which may be needed ; 
not, however, making any unnecessary delay at either of these places. 

On your arrival in* the Pacific, you will obtain from Master-commandant 
Gregory all necessary information relating- to our commerce and sqi^^dron, 
and adopt suitable measures for executing and accomplishing the instruc- 
tions and objects which he has not had it in his power to fulfil previous 
to your arrival. A copy of biiteders is furnished. 

The force under your comaunp will consist of the Potomac, as flag- 
ship, the sloop-of-war Falnloitttil Master-commandant Gregory, and the 
schooner Dolphin, Lieutenant John C. Long. 

It is hoped that this force will be competent to afford efficient protec- 
tion to our extensive and important interests in that region of the world ; 
and placing every confidence in your skill, intelligence, and judgment, no 
doubt is entertained of your using every exertion in your power fully to 
accomplish the objects of your command. 

You will, on all occasions, render to our citizens, vessels, commerce, 
and interests, that assistance and protection to which they are lawfully 
entitled. 

For your information and government in the execution of the duties 
assigned to you, I transmit a Tokune containing the treaties concluded 



I : 



624 APPENDIX. 

between the United States and foreign powers, a compilation of the laws 
of the United States relating to the navy, a circular respecting the dis- 
charge of our seamen in foreign ports, another directing a quarterly report 
to be made of American vessels boarded, and a third regulating the official 
intercourse between the commanders of our ships-of-war and the consuls 
of the United States in foreign ports. 

It is important that you should keep yourself always correctly advised 
of passing events ; and it is therefore advisable that you commence and 
continue a regular correspondence with our pubUc and commercial agents 
within the Umits of your station. 

Cases may arise which it is impossible to foresee, and to meet which 
definite instructions cannot be given ; should such occur out of the ordi- 
nary way, you must be Left to the exercise of a sound discretion. 

Our relations with the governments of the southern continent of 
America, as well as with Mexico, are on the most friendly footing ; and 
care should be taken to abstain from any act which may impair their 
present character, so far as this can be done consistently with the main- 
tenance of our own just rights. 

You will be caref^, on entering any harbour, or meeting a public Teasel 
of another nation, to manifest the accustomed civilities ; as we confidently 
expect them to be paid to us, it becomes us to be prompt in tendering 
them to others. 

At all places you may visit, you will encourage the best feelings to- 
wards our government, nation, citizens, and interests ; exhibiting, wherever 
an opportunity offers, that moderation and urbanity which become your 
own character and that of the government you represent. 
^ Should war arise on the western coast of America, it wiD be recollected 
that the belhgerant parties are entitled to equal rights ; and the utmost 
caution must be observed to refrain from all acts towards either of them, 
that might have a tendency to affect or compromise our neutral character. 
Acts of kindness to either, although equally extended to the others, might 
be misconceived or misconstrued to our prejudice. You will, therefore, 
to avoid all causes of complaint, decline, if requested, taking on board the 
vessels of your squadron, for either party, men, money, provisions, or sup- 
phes, to be carried from such party to any port or country whatever. 

If hostilities should take place, it is probable that the parties will resort, 
as formerly, to the system of blockadtti without an adequate force to 
maintain that mode of annoyance, and to file great injury and inconvenience 
of neutral vessels and commerce. 

In the event of such a state of things, you will use your best efforts 
to protecl our citizens and their property from the illegal exercise of power ; 
claiming for them all the rights and privileges to which they are entitled 
by the laws of nations. At the same time you will avoid, as much as pos- 
sible, all collision with either party, without compromitting in any manner 
our own just rights and national honour. 

It is to be feared that some of the freebooters, whose depredations have 
been so successfully checked in the West Indies, and some of the priva- 
teers and parties employed during the wars which have existed in that 
quarter, may change the scene and character of their operations, in hopes 
4»f finding our commerce in a defenceless state. To guard against such 



APPfeNDix 685 

an occurrence will require, on the part of the Teseela under your command, 
the utmost vigilance. 

Among the accompanying papers, you will find a copy of the General 
Instructions issued in relation to piracy and the slave-trade ; they may 
be applicable to cases which may arise within the range of your command, 
although specially designed for another station. 

Misrepresentations, arising, no doubt, in most instances, from misappre- 
hension and partial information, have often found their way to the public 
papers, to the injury of the service and the prejudice of our government. 
This renders it proper that you should endeavour to prevent communica- 
tions from those under your command, respecting the movements of the 
squadron and your official transactions, which may possibly reach the 
public in such a manner. 

The propriety of such publications must be left to the government, 
which will take care to afford full information, from the authentic means 
in its possession, of whatever the interests of the nation will permit to be 
made known. 

You may itceive on board the vessels of your squadron specie and 
other articles, permitted by the act of Congress for the better government 
of the navy, belonging exclusively to our own citizens, and carry them from 
one port or place to another, when it does not interfere in any degree with 
your other more important duties, or infringe the laws of the country 
where such articles are to be received or carried ; and, also, on your return 
to the United States, you may bring with you gold, silver, and jewels, the 
property of our own citizens. But our national vessels ought not, and 
must not, be used for purposes of commercial adventure ; and you are,, 
in no- case, to allow any thing in the shape of a public advertisement^ 
giving information that you will carrysuch articles. So many complaints 
have been made on this subject, that I must impress upon you the necessity 
of avoiding every thing which may give rise to unfriendly comments. In 
order that the government may be informed of the extent to which the 
commercial interests of our citizens have been benefited on this pointy 
and be prepared to answer any inquiries on this subject, you will, from 
time to time, make reports of all the specie, &c. carried, the places to and 
from which it may be taken, and the circumstances and conditions under 
which you do it. 

The health of your officers aM^nrews will demand unceasing attention ; 
the moral conduct and profetMWQ acquirements of the junior officers, 
the exercise of constant watchidilness. 

Rigid discipline, exactly enforced, is essential to maintain the reputa- 
tion of the navy, and it must not for one moment be neglected. You are 
perfectly aware, that a firm and energetic course on the part of the supe- 
rior, accompanied by mild, humane, and gentlemanly deportment, is the 
best mode of accomplishing, in a satisfactory manner, the various objects 
intrusted to your command. 

It is also especially necessary that commanding officers should guard 
against the influence of feelings of partiality or prejudice in the treatment 
of inferiors. Every officer is entitled to, and must enjoy, all the privi- 
leges of rank and station. Whenever these are permitted to one and 



^ 



(KM APPENDIX. 

denied to another, or preferences are shown, insubordination and unkisd 
feelings are immediately engendered, to the lasting injury of the senri^. 

I am well persuaded that you do not require to be uzged upon this 
subject, and shall not therefore press further arguments upon your 
attention. 

* You will transmit, semi-annually, on the first of January and July, 
confidential reports of the character, conduct, skill, and acquirements, of 
all the officers under your command. In making them, it is proper that 
strict impartiality should be used, and all personal prejudices or predilec- 
tions avoided. 

The blank monthly returns, forwarded to you herewith, for the use of 
the squadron, are to be regularly and carefully filled up, and transmitted 
through you to this department. The books ordered to be purchased for 
the use of all our ships in commission, are to be placed in charge of the 
schoolmaster, and on your return carefully packed in boxes, ivhidh must 
be labelled, and deposited in the public store. 

It is intended to send out, from time to time, ample supplies for the 
squadron, which will render it unnecessary for the purser, acting as agent 
for the squadron, to make purchases, unless on urgent occasions, when 
special instructions shall be given by you to him. 

You will obtain from this officer the funds required for the pay of the 
officers and men, and the general uses of the squadron ; and to enable him 
to be at all times ready to meet those demands and fulfil the injunctions 
of the department, you will furnish him, from time to time, with estimates 
in detail of the wants of the squadron, six months in advance, particular- 
izing the various heads oif appropriation under which the money should be 
frawn, and forward the dupUcates thereof to this department. 

It may be in your power, while protecting the commercial, to add some- 
thing to the agricultural interests of our country, by obtaining information 
respecting valuable animals, seeds, plants, &c. ; and by importing such 
as you can conveniently, without expense ta the government, or neglecting 
the more immediate and appropriate duties assigned you. 

The cultivation of the sugarcane has become an object of increasing 
importance and value, and you may be able to meet with different varie- 
ties in the course of your cruise, and procure directions as to the mode of 
culture. It is very desirable that this bifuich of agriculture should not be 
lost sight of in your inquiries. V- 

The copy of a resolution of Congresii^of the twenty-fifih of January, 
eighteen hundred and thirty, upon this subject, and the collection of veg- 
etables, grain, &c., is enclosed for your information and attention. 

There are many scientific, botanical, and agricultural institutions, to 
which your collections might be profitably intrusted, and by which, what- 
ever you procure, would be applied to the greatest advantage ; among 
them is the Columbian Institute of the city of Washington. 

This society, as well as the Treasury Department, has prepared direc- 
tions for the preservation of articles, and requested that they might be 
distributed among our naval commanders. In compliance ifvith their 
vnshes, I send you a' few copies. 

As firequently as opportunities offer, you will report your proceedings 
to the department, transmitting copies of your official correspondence 



APPENDIX. KBl 

with the authorities of Chili and Peru, and with other powers and personsi 
and carefully numbering your despatches, of which it would be prudent 
to' send duphcates by different conyeyances. 

You will also be the medium of communication to the department £rom 
the officers and men under your command. 

Previously to sailing from the United States, you will cause complete 
muster-rolls of all persons on board of the Potomac to be made out and 
forwarded to the department. 

I am respectfully, sir, 

Your obedient servant. 
Commodore John Dowincs, LEVI WOODBURY. 

Commanding U. S. Frigate Potomac, 
Norfolk, Virginia. 



jYovy Department, July SSM, 1831. 
Messrs. Nathaniel Silsbeb, Dudlet L. Picxman, and Robert Stone. 

Gentlemen — Your communication to the President of the SOth instant 
has this day been received and referred to this department. 

I feel happy in assuring you that, since the 19th instant, every neces- 
sary preparation has been making to demand inunediate redress for the 
outrage committed. 

On the 23d instant, not hearing from Salem but through the news- 
papers, I addressed a letter to one of your number, as a personal friend^f 
asking further information on this subject ; and which letter, ere the arrival 
of this, will doubtless have been received by him. Though it was then 
confidential, he is hereby authorized to communicate it to the parties 
interested. 

The department would now invite attention to procuring and forwarding 
here a few particulars not contained in the communication received to-day. 

1st. It is desirable to have the originals or authenticated copies of all 
protests made in relation to the loss, and of affidavits by any persons who 
witnessed the outrage, detailing its origin and progpress. 

2d. Any special informationt fS to the character of the rulers and the 
population, and the part of thekAlttntry where the injury occurred, which 
the owners may have, and which is not to be found in the books treating 
of those regions, would be acceptable. 

3d. InteUigence is asked as to the political relations, if any, existing 
between those rulers, &c., and the English or the Dutch ; whether useM 
hints can be given as to the draught of water, dangerous reefs, or circum- 
stances connected with the navigation in that region, and thence to Macao, 
by a frigate of the largest class. 

Your early attention to these subjects will greatly oblige the 
department. 

With sentiments of respect, ^ 

I am, gentlemen, your obedient servant, 
(Signed) LEVI WOODBURY. 



S88 APPENDIX. 

Navy DepartmerU, August 9<A, %Ml. 

S1K9 

Cif cvmstances h^Ve occurred since the last instructions to you, which 
require a change in your route to the Pacific, and which may impose on 
you some new duties of a character highly delicate and important. A most 
Vfanton outrage was committed on the Uves and property of certain Ameri- 
t^ citizens at Quallah-Battoo, a place on the westsro side of the Island 
of Sumatra, on the 7th of February last ; the particuhuv of which are con- 
tained infthe doctmient annexed, marked A and B. 

You ^iv therefore directed to repair at once to Sumatra, by the wmy of 
the Ca{i^*Df Grood Hope, touching on the voyage thither fmkj at mack 
places a!l4he convenience and necessities of your vessel may rendAv 
proper. On your arrival at Quallah-Battoo, you will obtain from the Jn- 
tettigepljilupmasters, supercargoes, and others, engaged in the American 
tra^ inr ^at neighbourhood, such information as they possess in respect 
to the nature of the government there, the piratical character of the popu- 
lation, find the flagrant circumstances of the injury before mentioned. 
Should that information substantially correspond with what is given to 
you in the documents marked A and B, the President of the United States, 
in order that prompt redress may be obtained for these wrongs, or the 
guilty perpetrators made to feel that the flag of the Union is not to be in- 
suited with impunity, directs that you proceed to denumd of the rajah, or 
other authorities at Quallah-Battoo, restitution of Che property plundered, 
or indenmity therefor, as well as for the injury done to the vessel ; satis- 
faction for any other depredations committed there on our commerce, and 
the immediate punishment of those concerned in the murder of the Ameri- 
can citizens, Charles Knight, chief officer, and John Davis and George 
Chester, seamen, of the ship Friendship. 

If a compliance of this demand be delayed beyond a reasonable time, 
you are authorized, in the following manner, to vindicate our wrongs : — 
Firstly, having taken precautions, while making the demand, to cut off all 
opportunity of escape, from the individuals either concerned in that savage 
outrage, or protecting the offenders, or participating in the plunder, you 
will proceed to seize the actual murderers, if they are known, and send 
them hither for trial as pirates by the first convenient opportmi^ ; to re- 
take such part of the stolen property as can there be found aad^Mientified ; 
to destroy the boats and vessels of aiqf kind engaged in the piracy, and 
the forts and dwellings near the scene €f aggression, used for shelter or 
defence ; and to give pubUc information to the population there collected, 
that if full restitution is not speedily made, and forbearance exercised 
hereafter frotn Uke piracies and murders upon American citizens, other 
ships-of-war will soon be despatched thither to inflict more ample 
punishment. 

Any property restored, or indemnity given, you will dehver to the owners 
of the ship Friendship, or their agents, taking receipts therefor. Should 
the information obtained on the spot give a different character to the 
transaction from that furnished by the department, marked A and B, 
shoving any real disapprobation of the plunder and murder by the popu- 
lation at large or by their rulers, or any provocation given on the part of 
our citizens, or the existence of a regular responsible government, acting 



;• 



APPENDIX. 529 

<m principles recognised by civilized nations in their conduct towards 
strangrers, you will confine your operations to a regular demand for satis- 
^tion on the existing authorities at QuaUah-Battoo ; to be rendered by a 
restoration of the property, indemnity for the other injuries, and a punisl^ 
ment of the offenders. If referred by them to tfaf King of Acheen, yoti 
will cause a hke ^mand to be made on him. Should such satisfaction 
be not speedily gitap by either, you will inform them that future measuiM 
will be taken by tbir United States effectually to enforce it, and to vindi- 
cate the violated rights of their citizens. * . 

At the s^e time, in this latter event, assure the rajah or otMF respon- 
•ible authorities, that this government entertains no hostile ^eliogs to- 
wards the people of Quallah-Battoo, or their governors, rajaliSi, or rulers 
of any kind ; and if the assaults, plundering, and murders, were unautho- 
rized, and not afterward countenanced, that it will be peculiarly jMVO'ug 
to discover, on the part of the authorities of those places, a disfiottliiA to 
redress, as far as may be in their power, the wrongs wantonly inflicte4^n 
the citizens of the United States. 

You will forthwith report to the department the result of your.exp^- 
tion to Sumatra, forwarding the report by the first convenient oppoitsnity, 
from that island or from China. 

Leaving Quallah-Battoo, or the dominions of the King of Acheen, 
you will proceed to Macao, where disturbances to our conmierce are said 
to have recently occurred ; touching at Batavia, if convenient, and at all 
events conferring with our consul there, in person or by letter, on the 
interests and condition of American oomDUMrce in that quarter. To our 
consul resident in Macao or Canton, arid to the American merchants there, 
you will apply for information, and give any temporary aid or relief in 
your power, without involving this country in any hostilities with the 
regular and authorised authorities of China. 

After a short stay there for the above objects, and for taking in neces- 
sary supplies and refreshments, to obtain which, if indispensabl^i in addi- 
tion to the funds placed in your hands already, you are empowered to 
draw on this department to the amount of five thousand dollars, you 
will pioceed directly to your station in the Pacific, stopping only at sudi 
islands in fom way as may be in the usual track, and interesting to our 
commereii qi,Aat region of the world. 

Your fnter instructions will be your guide, after reaching the rest of 
your squadron ; except that, whenever a vessel can be spared from it to 
visit any of the islands in the Pacific, resorted to by our merchantmen 
and whalers, you are directed to detach one for that purpose. 

Great care must be taken to have such vessel conduct with caution, 
forbearance, and good faith towards the natives ; to render any assistance 
in its power to American citizens ; to make as favourable an impression 
as possible on the population, of the justice and strength of our govern- 
ment ; and to collect and report to this department all valuable infomi»- 
tion, of every kind, connected with the places visited. 

With much consideration. 

Your obedient servant, 

LEVI WOODBURY. 
Commodore Jobh Downes, on board the U. S. frigate Potomac 



APPENDIX. 



M«nday, February 7Ui, 1831. — Al eighl A.M., ihe captain, aeoond 
office!, and four men, went on shore lo weigh peppiei ; at half pa*t three 
P, &t-g ^ccecdcd in procuring onp boat-load ; saw hei leave the ba.nk of 
ib» Tidier, opposite Ihe scale-hmise, with the usual coniplemeni at mea m 
- . fm, that ifl to Bay, one stceraman and six oarsmen ; (he natives slill bria^- 
■ijw pepper to the scales, w ith the pronuse of gi*iQg Us anolhei boat-load 
to-day, The first boat was observed to make considerable delay in gettug 
out of &0 river, and we supposed her new might be stealing pepper from 
her, Utd ■ecPBling il among some neighbouring high grass. Two of the 
■hip'a men were accordingly sent down to waich ihora ; and upon ihetr 
apprMcl^Bg the boat, Ave or six Malays were seen to jOmp up fiom the 
grew, uid hurry on board hsr ; the ship's people supposed them lo be the 
boat's crew, as Ihey had seen about the same number quit her previous 
to their being observed by the Malays. At this lime there w»s a bng 
alanduig inlo .Soo-Soo. While waitmg for the natives lo complete our other 
bo afrlmd of pepper. Captain Endicott went to the beach to ascertajo if 
the 1^1^ approaching had hoisted any colours. He then saw itiai the 
peppli^at, which at this time was within a few yards of the ship, had at 
leasl double the number of men m her that she had when she leli Ihe 
scales. He immediately returned, and itu^uired into this circum stance. 
The men who were sent down to watch the boat in the river then informed 
him, thai Ihey bad seen her lake id several men out of a ferry-bosl al the 
mouth of Ihe river ; but, aa they all appuarod to be " youngsterai" Chey did 
not think ihe circumstance of sufficieri importance to report il. Our bus~ 
picions were immodiaiely excited that all was nol nghl : yel trusting Ihey 
would nol be permiiied to go on board- — ^it being conmiry to the e&tsl>- 
lisbed regulations of Itie sbip, in the abiicnce of the raputin..la-adiaU-nicire 
than Iwo Malays on board hsr at a time, — and deeming it too hOe (o ren- 
der ai^ assistance if they were, ihe second ciAicer Rud two men vrf le 
sent to Ate beacb to obsenct the movements on board ; who almost in- 
stantly returned with ihe informatton thai there was iroubls on board, and 
that men wtre seen jumping overboard fium her. Convinced froin lhi9 
circumalaoce that we on shore had no lime to lose, we immediately nprang 
into ths ship's iioat, and pushed olT. Almost inslantaneously ciDwda ot 
Malaya began tu assemble on the banks ot the nver, which aM about sixty 
yards asunder, brandj«hing their weapon* and otherwi:)e menacing us ; al 
the some moment a ferry-boat, with eight or ten men in her. aimed with 
spears and krisos, pushed ofl' lo intercept our passage out of the rTvor ; but 
by pulling direclly for her, and presenting a Malay sword, our only weapon, 
we succeeded in koeping Ihera otT, When we had cleared the river and 
eatne in full sight of the ship, we found the Malays bad full possession of 
het; some of them walkuig about the deck, while Others were making 
signals of success to the people on shore ; oone of the ship's crew, except 
one man aloft, was to be seen. At lliis inoaenl three Malay boats, with 
forty or fifty men each, came out of the river, end pulled towards Ihe ship 
and us. We then concluded, our only chance lo recover the ship was by 
obtaining assistance from some other vessel : and for this purpoiie we 
inado the best of our way to Muckie. where we knew two or three J 



nn veseeli « 



I lying. Ai one A, M- v 

" iallah-B.ii 



ltd MurUi' 






. :■! tenovar the 

\-iiig to [lie lighlnCBs of to 

effect any thing that day [ 

n shore ii) deitiuii ' 



s distant li 
Monroe, Porier, of New-York ; brigs <i''n ■ 
Salem, and PaLinert Fuwt'rs, of Buscon . 
nusfurtune, to ptocead to QuallBh-Batiui)^ 
ship. They nccoidingly got under way, bul, o 
wigd, did not reach Quallah-Baltoa in season 
lint on tbk morning of the 9lh, a Malay was bi 
ahjp Dl' the rajah, accompamed with the threat, that if the Malays did not 
immedUtely desert her, we should fire upon them and thv Xovtn. The 
lojahf however, positively refused to give her up, and sent word vie might 
cake IWT [fwe could. The three vessels then comraenced firing upon the 
ship and (he boats which were passing with plunder, and were answered 
by the forte on shore, tlie Malays also firing the ahip's guns at vs. In 
their Btieinpis to get her on shore, she had become entangled among a 
large cluster of shoais, whtch rendered it extremely dangerous for either 
of ihs vessels to attempt to lay her alongside. 

Vbe Malays, however, after blowing themselves up with an opoB Jceg 
of powder, out of which they were biding the gims, soon ceasfPd'ftring 
on board the ship ; when a boat from each vessel was dischai^ed ifl^ard 
her, under cover of the guns £nm Aa vessels, tuid which we did without 
opposition ; the Malays deserting her on the approach of the boats. Wa 
found her within pisiol-shol of the shore ; luiii, on exuiunalion, ascertained 
that she wu plundered of every thing raluattle. and acurcely any thing but 
ber pepper remaining. 

The appearance of the ship, at the- Time we boarded her, beggars all 
description : every part of her bore ample testimony of the scene of vio- 
lence and destruction with which she had been visited. We aubsiM]uenIly 
learned thai the pepper-boat exchanged h»r crew of fiHliermcn iit the 
river's month for a set of opium-Amokers, rwidoTcd ile''|i''ni1e by their 
habits ; and to these men added also others of the aama class, taJun from 
the ferry-boat \_ that when she came alongside, not one of them was recog- 
nised by-the ship's company as having been off tci her before. Tliey 
were all, however, indiscriminately permitted lo go on board ; and the 
attack was commenced simultaneously at different paila of the ship by 
some concerted signal. Three or four men, with the first officer, were 
instantly kriaed ; and the crew bejiig taken by aurprise, and unprepored, 
iho ship fell an easy prey to them. 

KiUed on board the Friendship, Mr. Charles Knight, rhtef officer : John 
Davis and George Chester, seamen, wounded ; Charles Converse, seaman, 
badly ; John Mussey, seaman, and Wilham Francis, steward. 

Captain Endicoti informs us, in addition to the particulars before given, 
that just as he b«d pushed off from t)ie shore at Quail ah -Hat too, half the 
boat's length (aftet learning his ship had been Btucked), Po Adam, 
formerly of Qualtah-Baltoo, but for the last two or three years a 
resident at Pulo Kio, a man of considerable property aiwl influence, 
•prang into the boat, bringing with him his sword and other arms. Cap- 
tain Endicott said to him, at the moment of his leaching the boat. " What, 
1, Adam V — " Tes," was his reply ; " if Ihey kiU you, they 
I kill me first, captain." To ihia man, CqiUin Endioolt and tha 

— Lia 



4 



632 APPENDIX. 

boat^s crew felt that they principally owed, under Proridence, theb eaeiqp^y 
aa the appearance of his weapons, no doaht, gave the Malays U|te leiTj- 
boat the iint>ression''thai all on board the Friendship's boat were armed, 
and they in consequence suffered the latter to pass almost without 

•^nolestation. 
^ . After having thus cleared the 4Yer, Captain Endicott subnitted himself 

"Wich to the counsel and advice of Adam ; and when he concluded to 
' proceed with all despatch to Muckie for assistance, this man not only 
piloted the boat in the night, but pulled an oar nearly the whole distance ; 
and discovered as much anxiety that every possible despatch should be 
made in procuring assistance, as if he was to be personally benefited by 
the recapture of the ship. To his exertions Captain Endicott also owed 
the recovery of some of his nautical instruments. For the interest Po 
Adam took in this affair, the Malays at Quallah-Battoo confiscated all his 
property which they could get hold of at that place, amounting to several 
thousand dollars, and even set a price upon his life. The conduct of this 
generous and noble-hearted Malay should entitle him to the gratitude of 
every American, and we hope he will not go unrewarded. Four orSie 
Friendship's crew, who Jumped overboard at the time of the attack, swam 
the distance of two miles before they could find a safe place to land, as 
the Malays lined the shore for isome distance around Quallah-Battoo. As 
soon as tiiey reached the shore they fled into the bushes, where, almost 
without clothing, and having nothing to subsist on, they remained for three 
days — at night walking to and fro in hopes of finding some means of 
escape. The third night they discovered a canoe, which they took pos- 
session of, and proceeded for Pulo Kio (the residence of Po Adam), know- 
ing that they should be safe if they put themselves under his protection. 
On their arrival they were informed of the recapture of the ship, and the 
benevolent Adam not only furnished them clothing, but, with two of his 
men, proceeded with them himself in their canoe, and put them on board 
the ship James Monroe, of New- York. 

At the lime of the attack upon the crew of the Friendship, Mr. Knight, 
the chief mate, was busily engaged in taking an account of pepper. The 
Malays had placed themselves in the best manner for making the attack. 
All the men who were killed or wounded (seven in number) were struck 
at the same moment. Two of the Malays stabbed Mr. Knight — one at his 
side and the other at his back. He ran to the starboard side of the quarter- 
deck, and seized a boarding-pike, after he was wounded ; he was there 
met by one of the ship's crew, who heard him exclaim, "Do your duty." 
He was immediately after seen lying dead near the same place, with 
the boarding-pike under him, the Malays having rushed upon and de- 
spatched him. 

The exultation of the natives at this achievement was unbounded, and 
their insolence insufferable. Wlien Captain Endicott and the other 
American masters and supercargoes landed at South TaUapow, after the 
recapture of the ship, the natives followed them through the streets in 
great crowds, exulting and hooting with exclamations similar to these : — 
" Who great man now, Malay or American ?" — " How many man Ameri- 
can dead 1 How many man Malay dead V &c. &c. What the conse- 
quence of such a feehng will be, it is impossible to foretcl. May the 



^ 



I 



APPENDIX. S33 

misMike Wdder which they rest, ^t the Americans have not the po¥rer to 

chateMi^Btin, be corrected with aM convenient despatch. ^•^ 

•'• • ^.•*- 
» Amount of Ir^ury, 

Specie, tV<^elve thousand five hundned and thirty-six dollars. ^ 

Opiuin,iij||^t thQflsand eight hun^d and eighteen dollars. * UJ^ 
Stores an4 provisions, two thousand five hundred dollars. 
Instruments and clothes, one thousand two hundred dollars. 

^-i^ss of voyage, freight, &c., fourteen thousand dollars^ 

'"'- Salvagp, &c., two thousand dollars. 

The attack was evidently concerted some time before hand, and one 
of the acting rajahs aided in the combination. The Achenese rajah, 
Chute Dulah, received the specie and opium into his possession, and 
refused the restoration of that as well as of the ship. Others of distinc- 
tion united, and hired persons of less note to go on board and commit the 
outrage and murders. 

B. 

Character and Condition of the Population and Country at Quallal^Battoo 

in the Island of Sumatra, 

Quallah-Battoo is situated in wboat 3^ 44' north latitude, and 96^ 56^ 
east longitude, on the western side of the Island of Sumatra 

That part of the island is called the Battas, and is in the possession of 
the natives, who owe no particular allegiance to any foreign power, and a 
very slight one, if any, to the King of Acheen, whose' country is north- 
west of the Battas ; and who does not hold himself responsible for their 
outrages. 

The different tribes have rajahs or chiefs, sometimes two each, and 
often wantonly plunder and kill strangers, without possessing any civilized 
principles of government conforming to national law, so as to permit or 
open regular diplomatic relations with the rest of the world. They fre- 
quently war with each other and with the King of Acheen, with much 
perfidy and Ibarbarity. Neither the British nor Dutch claim any control 
over that part of Sumatra ; and the nearest fort of the former is at 
Tappanooly. ** 

Many American vessels resort to that coast, and are in danger of cap- 
ture, and of having their crews murdered, from the savage and piratical 
« conduct and principles of the population. The arrogance and treachery 

* of the natives, especially towards Americans, have of late years increased ; 

and in this instance, their aggressions were countenanced' beforehand by 
some of those in authority, and all relief and restoration, when demand!^ 
were refiised. 

Quallah-Battoo lies entirely open to the sea, defended by only two or 
three small forts, of three or four guns each, having a population, including 
the pepper-plantations, four or five miles in the interior, of about four 
thousand. The depth of water in the roads, within a quarter and half a 
mile of the shore, is firom eighteen to twenty fathoms, muddy bottom ; but 
nrach stone, fiung in from ballast, rendering chain cables expedient when 
at anchor. 



# 



1 

I 



534 APPENDIX. 



U. 8. Shp Potomacj off the Town of Qualiak^SatUa, 
* February 6M, 1832. 

Sir, 

I have the honour to infonn you, that, according to your orders hereto- 
lore received, I effected a landing with the several diTisions under my 
command, about one mile and a half to the northward of the town. Al- 
though there was a heavy surf upon the shore, the divisions were landed 
and formed without the slightest accident. The following wasjthe order 
observed : — First, the marines under Lieutenant Edson ; then the different 
divisions under the command of Lieutenants Pinkham, Hoff, and iDgersoU, 
and the six-pounder in charge of Acting-sailingmaster Totten ; the boats 
being left under the command of Passed-midshipman Godon^ with orders 
to follow to the town as soon as the attack commenced. I feel much 
indebted to Lieutenants Edson and Terret for the promptness displayed 
by them in forming the marines, and in assisting and forming the other 
divisions ; all of which was effected with coolness in fifteen minutes. 
As soon as the day dawned we proceeded along the beach towards the 
town, undiscovered by the enemy until within a short distance of the 
northernmost fort, when I immediately despatched Lieutenant Hoff with 
his division to surround it; and in the event of the enemy's firing upon him, 
to carry it by storm. As soon as he approached the gateway, he was fi^ed 
on ; when, after a close action of nearly two hours, the Ameiican flag was 
hoisted ; the enemy carrying off his wounded, and leaving behind him 
his dead — twelve in number, and the women. Lieutenant Hoff had to 
surmount great difficulties in the capture of his fort ; he tore up the pali- 
sades which surrounded it, and formed a bridge, upon which be entered, 
and drove the enemy from their almost impregnable position ; during the 
whole of which time an incessant fire was kept up upon him. 

After leaving Lieutenant Hoff, I proceeded with the remaining forces ; 
and at the northern end of the town, Lieutenants Pinkham and Edson, 
with their respective divisions, filed off to the left, to the attack of the two 
forts assigned to them, in the rear of the town ; while, with the third 
division under Lieutenant Ingersoll, and the six-pounder, — ^Acting-saiUng- 
master Totten, I pushed on to attack the principal and strongest fort, 
situated at the southern end of the town. At the distance of fifty yards 
from the fort, perceiving the enemy preparing to receive us, I directed the 
six-pounder, loaded with round and grape, to be discharged, which threw 
them into confusion. The coolness and precision with which Acting- 
sailingmaster Totten worked the six-pounder, did great execution during 
the action. Lieutenant Ingersoll at this time rushed on to the attack. 
At this juncture Lieutenant Pinkham, with the first division, rejoined me ; 
Sailingmaster Barry, the guide, having been unable, from material altera- 
tions in and about the fort assigned to Lieutenant Pinkham, to point it 
out. The pioneers, with their crows and axes, having forced the gate, 
portions of the first and third divisions, under the direction of their respect- 
ive officers, rushed into the area, and took possession with little resist- 
ance ; but few Malays appearing, two of whom were killed on the spot. A 
charge was then made at the inner gate, which communicated with a narrow 
passage leading to the stronghold of the enemy (which was a strong plat^ 



APPBMOXX. 536 

form, considerably eleyated, upon which were mounted several cannofi, 
protected by a thick wall), which being forced, it was discoYeiied, to the 
disappointment of the officers and men there engiyed, tliib the ladder 
leading to the platform had been drawn up ; and, in an ineffectual attempt 
to climb the parapet^ I regret to say, that William P. Smith, seaman, was 
killed ; Henry Duicher, ordinary seaman, and Levi M'Cabe, quarter- 
gunner, of the third division, were woimded ; and Midshipm^ J. W/^ 
Taylor, and Peter Walsh, ordinary seaman, of the first division, were also 
wounded.^ I then gave the order to fire the buildings within the area, 
whiclT was promptly done ; but it being calm, and these bui}dings de- 
tached firom the main fort, the fire did not communicate with it as I had 
hoped. \ A short time after the fire commenced, two magazines of powder 
blew up; but lam happy to state that the explosion injured none of us, 
although in their immediate neighbourhood. Lieutenants Hoff and Edson, 
after storming the forts against which they had been sent, hoisted the 
American flag, and leaving a detachment in each, they formed between 
the fort and water ; a brisk fire was thus poured in from two sides. 
Passed-midshipman Qodon, in the launch, took a position immediately in 
front of the fort, and kept up a spirited and well-directed fire ; but sO 
tenaciously did the enemy cling to their position, that not until nearly all 
of them had been destroyed could we carry the fort. This was, how- 
ever, gallantly done by Lieutenant Ingersoll, Passed-midshipman Sylvanus 
Godon, and Midshipmen Joseph C. Walsh, J. W. Taylor, and Henry C. 
Hart, who spiked and threw the guns from the platform. The American 
colours were then hoisted, with three hearty cheers. Apprehending that 
the enemy had laid a train to his magazine, and the fort being mostly de- 
stroyed, and completely dismantled, I deemed it proper to call off the offi- 
cers and men, as it would have been an act of inhumanity to expose them 
to an explosion. 

For some time previous to the surrender of this last fort, another, situ- 
ated about one hundred and fifty yards from the. east bank of the river, 
and upon the opposite side of it, had been firing upon us with a twelve- 
pounder. It being impracticable to enter the river with our boats, and 
not possible to ford it without wetting our fire-arms, I did not deem it ex- 
pedient to attack this, but made preparations for the reduction of another 
in the neighbourhood of the one left in charge of Lieutenant 'JCerTeii of 
the marines, which would have remained undiscovered (the town and forts 
being situated in so thick a jungle), had the enemy not opened his fire 
upon Lieutenant Terrett. I immediately despatched Lieutenants Pinkham 
and Edson, with portions of their divisions, to reduce it{ when, being 
invested upon two sides, the enemy, after a short but ferocious resist- 
ance, fled to the jungle with much loss. It pains me, sir, to state, that 
in this attack private Benjamin T. Brown was killed, and private Daniel 
H. Cole wounded, supposed mortally. I omitted to mention, in its proper 
place, that John L. Dubois, seaman, belonging to Lieutenant Hoff's 
division, was severely wounded by a sabre-cut on the head and hand, and 
several others slightly, firom darts and javelins. The action having lasted 
nearly two hours and a half, and the town being almost reduced to ashes, 
the surf at the same time rising very fast, I deemed it prudent to com- 



B36 APPi^Dix. ' 

mence the embarcation under cover of the marines, hoping that what had 
been done would meet with your approbation. 

From the knowledge of the place possessed by Sailingmaster Barry, 
and his coolness, I derived the utmost advantage. Assistant-surgeons 
Foltz and Pawling were active and zealous in the discharge of their duties, 
binding up and dressing the wounded under the fire of the enemy. The 
(Afferent-orders I had occasion to send to those separated from me, were 
conveyed with promptness and great precision by Passed-midshipman 
Tooley and Purser William A. Slacum. The heutenants commanding 
ibe difierent divisions, have reported to me the entire satis£Eu:tion they 
derived from thtf coolness and bravery of the officers and men under their 
particular commands. I feel it a duty to state to you how much I am 
indebted to Lieutenants Pinkham, Hoff, Ingersoll, and Edson, for the 
promptness and alacrity with which they executed all orders, and my 
warm admiration for the gallantry evinced by them upon all occasions. 
The loss of the enemy must have been considerable ; at least one hundred 
and fifty killed. I am happy to state, that among the killed was Poolow 
N. Yamet, commonly called Po Mahomet, the principal rajah concerned 
in the plunder and massacre of the crew of the ship Friendship. We 
captured one pair of colours, twenty-six stand of arms, and one brass 
fieldpiece. We also set fire to and destroyed a number of proas on the 
stocks. The cannon in all the forts, with the exception of one, being of 
iron, were spiked and thrown over the parapet, and the powder destroyed. 
The following is a list of the killed and wounded. 

Killed — ^William P. Smith, seaman ; Benjamin T. Brown, marine. 

Wounded — Lieutenant Edson, contused leg ; Midshipman J. W. Taylor, 
■lightly; Daniel H. Cole, marine, supposed mortally; Henry Dutcher 
(o. s.), severely; Peter Walsh (o. s.), severely; Levi M^Cabe (qr. gun.), 
slightly ; John L. Dubois, seaman, severely ; John Addison, seaman, 
slightly ; James A. Huster, marine, slightly ; James F. Noland (o. s.), 
slightly ; James M'Cabe (o. s.), slightly. 

I have the honour to be, sir, very respectfully. 
Your obedient servant, 
(Signed) IRVINE SHUBRICK, 

Lieut, commanding the Expedition. 
Com. John Downcs, 

Commanding U. S. Ship Potomac. 






APPBJTDIZ. S37 



Mtdical SUtHsties of the Crew of the U. S, Frigate Potomac^ during a 
Voyage round the Worldf hy J. M. Foltz, M. D., AseiBtam^Surgeon^ 
U, iS. Navy, 

A concise statistical account of the health of the crew of the U. S. 
frigate Potomac, consisting of five hundred individuals, during a period 
of three years — in which time she performed a voyage of circumnaviga- 
tion, and passed through every variety of climate, from 40^ of north lati- 
tude to 67^ south latitude, having spent twenty months between the tropics, 
and five months in the most unhealthy parts of the East Indies — exhibiting 
the manner in which our crew were affected by the change of cUmate and 
the long confinement on board ship, the most prevalent diseases, with a 
few brief hints on prevention and modes of treatment,-— cannot but be 
interesting to the philosopher and physician, and may prove of utiUty to 
some future navigators. The following observations, extracted from my 
journals and notes taken at the time, are submitted, with a confidence in 
their correctness. 

I joined the Potomac at the navy-yard, Washington, and was the first 
medical officer that reported for duty, on the 23d of May, 1831 ; at thst 
time there were two hundred of the crew on board ship, of whom twenty- 
four were on the sick-list. On the 3d of June the ship was hauled off to 
Greenleaf Point, a distance of two miles from the navy-yard, where her 
armament and stores were received on board. Throughout the day the 
crew were exposed to a very hot sun for the season, and were obliged to 
use the river water, of which they drank copiously. The sick-Ust in con- 
sequence increased from twenty-two to thirty-six in one day. The men 
were seized with cholera-morbus, accompanied with violent spasms, which 
in several robust young men were so severe as to require copious vene- 
section. The submur. hydrarg. et opii (calomel and opium), and submur. 
hydrarg. et pulv. Doveri (calomel and Dover^s powder), were administered 
with the most happy results. On stating my opinion of the cause of the 
illness to Mr. Shubrick, the commanding officer, who also attributed it to 
the same source, water was brought from shore for the qse of the ship> 
company ; after which there were no new cases. The river water at this 
season contains a large quantity of vegetable and animal matter in a state of 
decomposition, and is unfit for use until after it has been kept for some time. 

On the 15th of June we left Washington for Hampton Roads, where 
we arrived on the 22d. The change from a fresh water river to the salt 
water materially improved the health of the crew ; several cases of vernal 
intermittents were speedily cured ; but as we were frequently receiving 
draughts of men, who came on board after the most violent debauchery 
and dissipation, the sick-Ust continued large, having an average daily of 
twenty-three, during twenty-four days while we remained at Norfolk. On 
the 4th of July, our boatswain, sBt. thirty-six, went on shore to congratu- 
late himself on his having received a warrant, and was brought on board 
after an absence of three days, labouring under mania a potu (dehrium 
from intemperance), and hsBmoptysis (bleeding from the lungs), which put 
a period to his existence in five days, falling a victim to intemperance. 

On the 16th of July sailed for New- York, with three hundred and fifty 



638 APPBirDix. 

of the crew on bo^, and anchored off the Battery, in North rifer, in £rB 
days. The complement of her officers and crew was supplMd here ; «iid 
on the S4th of August, 1831, the Potomac sailed with five handled and 
two souls on board, all in apparent good health, except one officer, whose 
case will be noticed in the proper place. The average age of the crew, as 
near as could be estimated, was thirty-one years. During our passage to 
Rio de Janeiro we did not fall in with the northeast trade winds ; variable 
winds and calms prevailed until we reached the third degree of north lati- 
tude when we met the southeast trades, which carried us to Rio. After pas- 
sing the Cape de Verd Islands, the Potomac's course for eight days was 
parallel with the coast of Africa, distant four hundred miles. Here we 
met with the most violent rains, with constant thick, heavy weather ; the 
sick-list increased ; several cases of fever occurred. On the 6th of Octo- 
ber crossed the equator, at which time the thermometer* stood at 70^, 
with twenty-two on the sick-list ; fresh tradewind and cloudy weather. 
Many of the younger part of the crew, who had nof been previously at sea, 
suffered much from the change of diet and confinement to the sh^ during 
the passage, and were troubled with indigestion and catarrhs ; several 
obstinate cases of sea-sickness continued until our arrival at Rio. There 
were ten cases of fever, and twelve were admitted with slight injuries. 
The average of the thermometer, during the passage of My-one days, at 
noon, was 76°. 

During our stay of twenty days in the harbour of Rio de Janeiro, the 
crew were daily supplied with fresh provisions, and were permitted to 
use the tropical fruits, which are very abundant at this season, without 
restraint. The thermometer, at noon, averaged 76^, and the l»roo)eter 
stood at 29.70, and the daily proportion on the sick-report was seven- 
teen . Several cases of diarrhoea and derangement of the bowels occurred. 
At Rio, malignant diseases seldom prevail ; the natives are of a bibous, 
lymphatic temperament, and are subject to elephantiasis, sarcocele, and 
framboesis. 

8hips-of-war that remain a long period in the harbour of Rio, usually 
have large sick-lists ; diarrhoeas commonly prevail ; they are very insidious 
in their approach, and frequently terminate in ulceration and a severe form 
of dysentery. Ships* crews should be protected from the rain — thej 
should never be permitted to remain below decks with wet clothes on, and 
be careful to avoid the unripe fruits that are daily brought off for sale in 
the bomb-boats, and bathe frequently during the dry season. 

Sailed on the 5th of November for the Cape of Good Hope, where we 
arrived on the 6th of December, after a passage of thirty-one days. The 
passage was boisterous, with much rain and thick foggy weather. Our 
easting was made between 33° and 34° of south latitnde, where we met 
with westerly winds, and the thermometer ranging at 60°. During the 
passage there were forty admitted with dysentery and diarrhoea ; most of 
them occurring immediately after leaving port, and continued to swell the 
sick-list during the passage ; they however yielded to medical treatment 
and farinaceous diet. The average number sick during the passage was 
twenty-one. 

* Fahrenheit't it alwmyi fiven. 



APPKNDIX. 639 

Upon our arrival at the Cape of Good Hope there were twelve eaeee 
of fntermittent fever on the sick-list, which were produced by the cold 
and wet weather during our passagre, most of them having had the disease 
the last autumn in the United States ; they were soon relieved after our 
arrival at the Cape, where intermittent fevers are of rare occurrence. 

The climate at the Cape of Good Hope is very good ; the average tem- 
perature throughout the year is 68^, and there are many instances of lon- 
gevity among the natives and foreign residents. The bills of mortality 
kept at the Cape, exhibit all the diseases to be met with in the same lati- 
tude^ north ; while the malignant diseases of the tropics are unknown. 
Invalids from British India frequently resort to this place for the restora- 
tion of health, and many are benefited. 

The southeast winds prevail here, and frequently blow with grreat vio- 
lence, when they are accompanied with a remarkable phenonienon — a small 
stationary cloud hangs over Table Bay. This is produced by the cold air 
that comes charged with humidity in its passage across the Indian ocean, 
coming in contact with the highly heated air on the north side of Table 
Mountain ; the humidity is condensed, and produces the cloud ; but as it 
obtains the temperature of the surrounding atmosphere it again disap- 
pears, so that there is a constant generation and destruction of the cloud 
in question. The Hottentots, at present, are said not to exceed seven thou- 
sand, whereas one century ago they were estimated at twenty thousand. 
While the Potomac remained in port, the thermometer ranged at 68^. 
On the 13th of December sailed from the Cape of Good Hope, between 
which and the Island of St. Paul's we encountered rough, cold weather, 
with strong westerly winds. Several cases of pleurisy occurred, apd 
many had catarrhs and colds, which, however, did not disable them from 
attending to duty. After passing the Island of St. Paul's, our course was 
northeast to the west coast of Sumatra ; we met with the southeast trade- 
winds, which continued with much regularity. The equator was crossed 
on the 27th of January. During our passage the crew was formed into 
divisions, and exercised almost daily in the use of fire-arms and cutlass, to 
prepare them for the landing at Quallah-Battoo ; and such was the state 
of excitement on the subject, and the great anxiety of all to participate in 
the affair, that our sick-hst was smaller during this passage than at any 
other period during the cruise. The proportion on the sick-hst was ten ; 
which was made up of intermittents, catarrhs, and shght injuries ; and 
upon our arrival at Quallah-Battoo, on the 6th of February, 1832, after a 
passage of fifty-one days, there were but three on the sick-hst. 

On the morning of the 6th the attack was made, by which we had eleven 
of our crew wounded and two killed. In one of the wounded the ball passed 
through the right lung, entering a httle to the right of the sternum, at the 
sixth rib, and passing out under the scapula, having carried with it pieces 
of his belt, cloth jacket, and shirt. He expectorated blood copiously, 
and after much suffering has recovered, with a collapse of the lung and 
an abscess on the right side. The wounded recovered remarkably well : 
a circumstance to be attributed to the uniformity of tea^}erature, and their 
comfortable condition on the gun-deck of the frigate. We remained 
twelve days at Quallah-Battoo, during which time the thermometer ranged 
at 86^, with alternate land and seabreezes. The crew were care£4ll|r'- 



«• 



.^ 



640 APPENDIX. 

protected from the sun ; but, in consequence of the mtense heat, W9ti&iing 
ship was found very laborious. Fresh beef and vegetables were daily 
served out to the crew, who also indulged freely in fruits. The severe 
exertions of the crew during the attack on shore, after a long period of 
rest, want of mental excitement, and change in diet and climate, produced 
a material change in the health of the crew. In one month our sick-list 
of three swelled to fifty-seven. Fifry-two cases of complaints of the 
bowels, and twelve cases of bihous fever, were reported within a month. 
The Malays are healthy and robust when compared with their Asiatic and 
Javanese neighbours ; are very temperate in their hving, use little animal 
food, and, hke all Mahommedans, bathe frequently. They are afflicted 
with goitre ; which cannot be attributed to the use of snow-water, as 
there is no snow on the island. I met with many who had recently suf- 
fered much from smallpox. 

16th February, sailed for the Island of Java, where we arrived in eigh- 
teen days. In crossing the equator the thermometer stood at 85^. On 
the S5th of February there were thirty on the sick-list, which was made 
up of cases of diarrhoea ; no new cases having occurred since leaving port, 
and the wounded were all doing well. 

On our arrival in the Straits of Sunda, a change was made in the rations 
of the crew by Commodore Downes, which contributed materially to the 
preservation of the health of the ship^s company. Portions of the beef, 
pork, and beans, which constitute the daily rations, were discontinued, 
and rice and curry served out in heu of them ; and the spirituous ration 
was divided into three portions — one of which was given in the morning, 
one at noon, and the remainder in the evening. AU hands were ordered 
to wear flannel, and were inspected daily by the officers, to ascertain that 
the order was comphed with. The Potomac arrived at Bantam Bay on 
the 6th of March, and remained there twelve days, during which lime the 
ship was wooded and watered. The latitude was 6° south, and the 
average temperature during our stay was 82°, with regular land and sea- 
breezes and frequent showers. The average number on the sick-report was 
twenty-nine ; of which fifteen had diarrhoea and dysentery, and four fever. 

On the 1 9th March arrived at Batavia, and anchored four miles from 
the shore; this port having been more fatal to navigators than any 
other on the globe — Dutch and English vessels having been laid up for 
want of hands to man them. It was here that Dr. J. Johnson met with 
that malignant fever which committed such dreadful ravages in the Eng- 
lish squadron in 1806. We were consequently not without the most 
dreadful forebodings, and enforced every precaution and mode of preven- 
tion that had heretofore been found useful. Awnings were spread over 
the ship day and night ; native Javanese boats' crews were employed to 
do the necessary boat-duty of the ship, and our men carefully protected 
from the sun, and all unnecessary duty avoided. 

Those officers who went on shore spent as httle time as possible in the 
city ; going directly to the country, where a purer atmosphere prevails ; 
and the most rigid temperance was strictly enjoined. 

From Dr. Johnson's valuable work on tropical climates we received 
many useful hints on prevention, and after the occurrence of disease were 
ifelki at once to strike upon a course of treatment, the result of which we 



appehdix. 641 

had much occasion to be highly gratified with, and would strongly recom- 
mend it to every navigator who visits those seas. Notwithstanding every 
precaution, the number of sick daily increased ; and those who reported 
themselves sick were attacked with enteritis (inflammation of the bowels), 
attended with much tormina and tenesmus. In several cases the disease 
assumed a most malignant character from the commencement, and in one 
case — a robust, vigorous young man — it proved fatal within twenty-four 
hours of his first indisposition. Violent inflammatory symptoms obtained 
in the onset of the disease, for which they were copiously bled, and the 
tubm. hydrar. (calomel) given in large doses and frequently repeated ; and 
emetics were also prescribed in the commencement of the disease with 
much benefit, as they counteracted the great tendency to visceral conges- 
tion. Mercurial inunction was freely used to accelerate copious saliva- 
tion, which, when once well established, was generally useful, although 
it did not in every instance preserve hfe. The course of the disease was, 
violent inflammatory symptoms from the beginning ; tormina and tenes- 
mus ; severe spasms ; bloody ietid evacuations ; collapse, and death. 

We remained at Batavia twenty days, during which the thermometer 
averaged 83^, with very little variation throughout the twenty-four hours ; 
but alternate land and seabreezes prevented the severe oppression of so 
high a temperature. When the landbreeze came off at night, it brought 
with it putrid exhalations from the fens and marshes that were extremely 
oflfensive, and oppressed the respiration to such a degree that there were 
few on board who did not complain of it This malaria doubtless brings 
with it the seeds of disease, from which foreigners suffer so much. 

The wall that formerly surrounded the city was demolished by the 
French and English when in their possession, and the city extended to 
the high grounds, three or four miles from its former site; and as the 
dwellings of the merchants here are large, spacious, and airy, it has 
effected a great change in the salubrity of the place. 

The foreign residents are temperate in their living, and never expose 
themselves to the sun. The governor and Dutch troops are stationed in 
the interior, where the climate is not so obnoxious to foreigners ; yet a 
few years residence on the island is certain to bring with it physical and 
mental enervation. 

Ships going to Batavia, should be careful to enforce the regulationa 
adopted in the Potomac. They should use little animal food, and entirely 
abolish the spirituous ration ; as I am convinced by so doing they would 
prevent much disease, and save many valuable hves. 

On the 10th of April we sailed from Batavia, with forty-two on the sick- 
list, including twenty-eight cases of dysentery. On the 14th the ther- 
mometer stood at 00°, and the sick-list increasing ; and on the 17th passed 
through the Straits of Gasper, the thermometer at 85°, and fifty-four on 
the sick-list. On the 3 1st, at meridian, we were at anchor one mile south 
of the equator, calm, thermometer 86°, and fifty on the sick-report. New 
cases occurring daily. " The chloride of lime is used freely about the 
cots and hammocks of the sick, and every possible attention paid to clean- 
liness.** — " 1st of May — rThere have been three deaths* within the last 

* Among the number was Mr. Oliver, commodore't aecretarr ; he had been laboininp 
uitdsi inuSual phthisiM for two ynn, and came on board with tae ezpactatioo that a nK 



642 APPBifi>ix. 

twenty-four hours ; the total number on the sick-list is thirty-lbiVy witi 
twenty-eight cases of dysentery and five of fever. The thermomettt' has 
been ranging at 86° since we left Batavia, with cahn and light airs ; wc 
are out twenty days, and are but six hundred miles from Batavia. Last 
night we had the most tremendous thunder, Ughtning, and rain." 

The Potomac arrived at Lintin (China) on the 20th of May, with 
twenty-nine on the sick-Ust, after a most tedious passage of thiity>ninc 
days. After the 2d of May we fell in with moderate breezes, which con- 
tinued until our arrival at Canton; after which the number of sicli 
diminished daily. There were one hundred and fifty cases of dysenter]! 
in the Java and China Seas, out of which there were thirteen deaths, — s 
proportion truly small, when compared with the number of deaths in 
other vessels while in those seas. We remained at Lintin seventeec 
days, during which the thermometer had a daily average of 80°, with a 
regular Seabreeze, which well ventilated the ship. The average numbei 
on our sick-hst was twenty-six ; three fourths of which were chronic 
cases of dysentery, and several cases of bilious fever. 

Canton was formerly C9nsidered the most unhealthy district in China, 
but at present it is one of the most healthy. The Lintin fleet, which 
usually remain stationary for many months, enjoy good health ; dysen- 
teries and fevers are the prevailing diseases. The Chinese and natives 
of British India have so httle vitality in their lower extremities, that frac^ 
tures and ulcerations of those parts are very difficult to cure — a circum- 
stance to be attributed to the debilitating effects of the chmate. 

Sailed on the 6th of June for the Sandwich Islands, with thick foggy 
weather and a fresh breeze. On the 9th, during a gale, with the ther- 
mometer at 80^, there were two deaths— cases of chronic dysentery. 
During the passage there was much rain and thick heavy weather ; the 
easting was made between the thirty-fourth and thirty-sixth degrees of north 
latitude, with the thermometer ranging at 72^, and the average on the 
sick-list twenty-five, during the passage. 

Arrived at Oahu, Sandwich Islands, on the 23d of July, after a ]>assage 
of forty-eight days. The character of the diseases had much changed ; 
during our passage there were no new cases of dysentery, but the old cases 
convalesced slowly. Pleurisies, catarrhs, and intermittent fevers took the 
place of the enteric diseases, and yielded more readily to medical treatment. 

The Potomac remained twenty-three days at the Sandwich Islands, 
during which time the thermometer stood at 79°, and barometer at 29.90. 
The crew were allowed to go on shore ; in consequence of which the sick- 
list was swelled by the men who had been on shore. On the day of our 
arrival there were seventeen on tlie list, and on the day of saihng it had 
increased to twenty-six. The climate of the Sandwich Islands is good ; 
the foreign residents enjoy good health ; the natives are large, corpulent, 
and of a lymphatic temperament. Their usual diet consists of the akom 
MAc:uLATi7M, Or wakc-robin, which is cultivated, and attains a great size ; 
and contains a large portion of fecula, out of which they manufacture 

dence between the tropics would prove beneficial. The di^j^aae waa so frr^dTanosd 
that d change of chme could not arrest the progt«8s of the disease. His conciliaUnc 
manners, cheerfulness of disposition, and intelligence, gained him many friends : he djM 
rsgrettsd by all who enjoyed his acquaintance. 



APPENDIX. 543 

ftarch ; — made into poyey with raw fi$k, it is considered one of their 
greatest luxuries, and the natives say it occasions their corpulency. The 
islanders are subject to a disease of the skin which they call crawcrawM 
•—a species of leprosy, — and for which they undergo a course of the kava- 
root, which is a powerful alterative and narcotic. They are also much 
afflicted with ulcerations, which are very difficult to heal, in consequence 
of the torpor of the circulation. When the missionaries arrived, infanti- 
cide was of frequent occurrence : a drastic-purgative indigenous bean was 
used, which occasionally destroyed the mother, and seldom failed in pro- 
ducing abortion. This horrid practice has been discontinued through tl^ 
influence of the missionaries. The population of Honoruru is estimated 
at seven thousand, and the town is healthy. 

Sailed for the Society Islands on the 15th of August, and crossed the 
equator on the 6th of September, in 5^ west longitude, with the ther- 
mometer at 80^, and the southeast tradewinds ; at this time there were 
twenty-four on the sick-list. For several days previous we had calms 
and rains, with the thermometer at 90^ ; the tradewinds continued until 
we arrived at Otaheite, after a passage of twenty -eight days, during which 
tmie the sick-hst averaged twenty-four ; there having been twelve cases 
of intermittent fever ; the chronic cases of dysentery convalesced very 
slowly, and continued to crowd the sick-report. 

The Potomac remained six days at Otaheite, during which time the 
ciew were kept hard at work on shore watering ship. They indulged 
freely in tropical fruits ; yet they remained healthy, in consequence of their 
not being able to procure ardent spirits, which they drank to excess at 
Oahu. Here we lost one of the crew from concealed strangulated ingui* 
nal hernia. The latitude of this port is 16° south ; dysenteries are nu>rtt 
frequently met with here than at the Sandwich Islands. The natives are 
not so large, and the females more delicately formed : many whiten their 
skin with the juice of the papa<t an indigenous plant, and avoid the sun ta 
improve their complexions. 

Those missionaries who remain some time on the island seldom escapot 
being attacked with elephantiasis. I met with several of them who were 
labouring under this disease in an aggravated form ; the natives also suffer 
much from it. 

Their diet consists of vegetables and fish ; the breadfruit constitutes a. 
large portion ; and as all the tropical fruits are here produced spontane- 
ously, labour is not necessary, and their lives are consequently inactive 
and indolent. 

Sailed on the 30th ; our course was southeast until we arrived in the thir- 
ty-fifth degree of south latitude, where we met with fresh westerly winds that 
continued until our arrival on the west coast of South America. Through- 
out the passage we encountered much boisterous and wet weather ; the 
thermometer changed from 64° to 56°, which was lower than it had been 
since our sailing from New- York ; which, together with the wet, uncom- 
fortable state of the ship, produced several cases of pleurisy, inflamed 
tonsils, rheumatisms, and intermittent fever. The average on the sick- 
list during the passage was thirty-six, of which twenty-two were admitted 
with rheumatism, and fifteen with pleurisy. 

We arrived at Valparaiso, after a passage of thirty-four days, on the 



641 APPBKDIX* 

34th of October, having been fourteen months from the United States 
more than eleven months of which had been spent at sea. The number oi 
the sick-report on our arrival was thirty-four ; two of which had symptomi 
of scurvy, owing to the long confinement to the ship and salt provisions 
The S3rmptoms were very mild, and did not manifest themselves until wi 
came under the influence of the land-air : the first few days in port thi 
disease became more severe ; after which they speedily recovered, an< 
were the only cases that occurred during the cruise. 

Shortly after our arrival Uberty was granted to the crew, which, ai 
usual, increased the number of sick. Ten cases were admitted witl 
He^ mitnia a potu, and a number with lues venerea. 
^.« 'J "* The Potomac remained forty dkys in the harbour of Valparaiso, durin| 
which time the average of the thermometer was 66°, and the baxomete] 
39.75. This is the spring in ChiU, when high winds prevail firom the 
south without rain. The sick-list was large for this port ; but could safelj 
be attributed to the excesses and intemperance of the crew on shore 
thirty-five was our daily proportion, a majority of them having derange- 
ment of the stomach. 

Santiago, the capital of Chili, is situated ninety miles inland fron 
Valparaiso, and has a population of forty-five thousand. It is remark- 
able for the extreme heat of the day and coldness at xugfat, occasioned 
by the cold atmosphere from the snow-clad mountain immediately in the 
rear of the city, rushing down to occupy the place of the highly rarefied 
air in the plains below, in which the city is built. Remitting and bilioui 
fevers prevail to a great extent ; but the most usual disease is goitre, 
which is frequently hereditary, and in some cases produces cretinism. 
The water that suppUes the city is produced by the melting of the snow 
on the mountains, and to this the natives attribute the cause of the dis- 
ease. Iodine and the hydriodate of potassa are used with more success 
in the treatment than any other article in the materia medica. While in 
Santiago, I heard of one case of extirpation of the thyroid gland ; the pa- 
tient did not recover. 

December 3d, sailed for Lima, where we arrived on the 1 5th. We had 
a south wind with pleasant weather during the passage, and on our 
arrival at Callao, the sick-list was reduced to eighteen. 

Remained in Callao seventy-five days, the thermometer ranging during 
* that period at 70°, and barometer at 29.85. This is the most healthy 

season at Lima; with clear, dry weather, the proportion sick was 
twenty -four. 

The ship was broken out, and well cleaned and painted, and the chlo- 
ride of hme freely scattered throughout the hold. 

Four esses of remitting fever occurred here ; they were attended vnth 
little arterial excitement, and would not bear the lancet. The sick-hst 
of the ships of war in this port is usually large, and they frequently suffer 
much from dysentery. In July and August a constant mist and fog fills 
the atmosphere, which the inhabitants of Lima much dread. This wet 
season is very inimical to diseases of the lungs, and individuals predis- 
posed to phthisis (consumption) will be certain to have the disease devel- 
oped by a residence in Lima. One of our crew died from phthisis while 
in port ; and on our sailing for Valparaiso, an officer of the U. S. ship Fal 



▲PPBNDIX. 64S 

mouth was transferred to the Potomac, in consequence of being attacked 
with hismoptysis. 

The climate of Lima is enervating and injurious to the constitution* 
The natives are small, delicate, and short-lived; although the foreign 
residents suffer less firom acute diseases than in the Indies, yet they are 
insidiously worn down by the climate, notwithstanding the most exem- 
plary temperance and regularity in living. 

The streets of Lima are kept clean, and many of them have streams of 
water running through them. The remarkable property of the atmosphere 
producing dry putrefaction, and preventing all noxious effluvia, is, perlwpsy 
one cause of the absence of maUgnanl diseases. Dead animals are 'Mif<« 
fered to remain in the roads ; and the PaiHheon, where all the dead of the** 
city are interred, is open to the air ; yet in no instance is there the least 
noxious effluvia. 

38th February, 1833, sailed for Valparaiso, where we arrived in sixteen 
days, having a cold, wet, and boisterous passage ; the thermometer ranged 
at 74°, and the proportion on the sick-list during the passage was twenty* 
three. The officer, Mr. S. £. Penniman, with haemoptysis, from the Fal-» 
mouth, had a return of the hemorrhage, which assumed a periodical form, 
returning every evening during our passage, and died nine days after our 
arrival at Valparaiso, from pneumonia, in the 25th year of his age.' He 
was a gentleman of talent, and promised much future usefulness, and fell 
t victim to the climate of Peru. 

The Potomac remained sixty-seven days in Valparaiso, during the 
months of March, April, and May (the autumn in Cliili). The thermom^ 
eter was not so high as during our previous visit, and there were occa« 
sional rains, which accompanied a north wind, which is much dreaded in 
this port, as the harbour is then unsafe. They were in every instance 
announced by the barometer, and only occur in the fall and winter. The 
average on tiie sick-list during our stay was twenty-one, and the list wae 
kept thus large by the excesses of the crew on shore, and slight injuries ; 
the number ill whose indisposition could not fairly be traced to dissipa- 
tion on shore did not exceed eight, which were cases of rheumatisniy 
pleurisies, and enlarged glands. Several cases of chronic diarrhoaa that 
occurred at Lima were speedily relieved on our arrival in Chili. The 
ship^s company were supplied with fresh provisions four times a week 
during the period we remained on the coast of South America. 

On the 25th of April a case of smallpox occurred in one of the servaiftSf 
who contracted the disease on shore ; he was inuffii^ti^ly transfertM'|iP 
a temporary hospital on shore, hoping by that meanii| ti ]pirevent the propa^ 
gation of the disease throughout the ship. A few ia^ «fter, another case 
presented itself in one of the boats' crews, who was daily on shore, and 
was also sent to the hospital without delay. The first case ytawed to be e 
severe case of confluent smallpox, and the second lost the (ise of the right 
eye by opacity of the cornea. 

On the 1st of May a severe norther set in, during whidi the .diermometef 
fell to 45°, and the sick-list increased ; all of the invalids were labouring 
under inflanmiatory affections ; during our stay in port there were four* 
teen reported with scrofula, sixteen rheunatism, twenty-two hepatttie 
(inflammation of the liver), and thirteen syphilie (venereal). Four weeke 

M m 



646 AFPENDI^^ 

had elapsed since the appearance of the last case of variola, and as the 
crew were prohibited from going on shore during that period, we antici" 
pated the entire disappearance of the disease. 

On the 30th of May we sailed for Coquimbo, where we arrived in three 
days. On the 11th of June another case of smallpox was reported, and 
was speedily succeeded by two other cases. It was now placed beyond 
doubt that the contagion was in the ship, and that it would inevitably ex- 
tend throughout the whole ship^s company ; when it was determined tn 
inoculate the ship's company, as by so doing the violence of the disease 
would be much mitigated, and its progress through the ship mnct 
hastened. On the 30th of June all hands were called to muster, and 
commencing with the officers, every individual that was not marked wiU: 
smallpox was inoculated with pus taken from a well-developed case oi 
variola. The niimh«r inoculated was two hundred and eighty-seven 
The ship's company were placed on fresh provisions, and the spirituoui 
portion of the ration stopped for all those who had undergone the operation 
At this time the health of the crew was very good, there being but eigh 
teen on the list, exclusive of the cases of smallpox. 

On the 34th, examined all who had been inoculated ; when it was ascer 
tained that eighty-five had taken the disease — ^many of them in a veri 
mild form. Where there were sjrmptoms of inflammation and fever, thi 
patients were bled, and the sulp. magnesia (Epsom salts) administered 
supertart. potass, (cream of tartar), in water, given as their common drink 
and all were ordered to abstain from animal food. An eruption appearec 
in eleven cases ; but in no instance was it attended with any un&voor 
able symptom. On the eleventh day after inoculation the febrile symp- 
toms were most severe, afler which they began to subside. There were 
thirteen individuals on board who had no evidence of having been pre- 
viously vaccinated, and who all took the disease from inoculation; 
twelve of the crew took the disease from the infection, and, as was proved 
by inoculation, eighty-five were susceptible to the disease. 

At Coquimbo we met with the American whale-ship Corinthian, with the 
smallpox on board ; the first officer had contracted the disease at Concep- 
tion, of which he died. I visited the ship, and found the third officer, 
cook, and a small lad (two last both coloured), labouring under the first 
stage of the disease ; the two adults were copiously bled and placed on 
the solution of tartras. antimonii (tartar emetic) ; and at the recommenda- 
tion of the fleet surgeon. Dr. Jackson, I inoculated the whole crew, 
twenty-seven in number, out of which eleven took the disease ; in several 
It was a mild varioloid, and all recovered without any unfavourable symp- 
toms. Four took the disease from infection, of which two died — ^the first 
officer and cook, — while all who were inoculated recovered : stiong evi- 
dence in favour of inoculation. 

Coquimbo lb very healthy, and has a great uniformity of temperature 
throughout the year. The city was called La Serena by the old Spaniards, 
from the serenity of the atmosphere, and was selected by the proprietors 
of the silver and copper-mines as their residence, in consequence of its 
salubrity. To this purity of the atmosphere and uniformity of tempera- 
ture, together with the medical pohce enforced on board ship, can bt 
attributed the great success in not losing one man out of five hundrec 



APPENDIX. 547 

from this terrible disease. During our stay, the average on the sick-list 
was nineteen ; the thermometer standing at 65^, and the barometer at 
39.80. There had been no rain at Coquimbo for three years previous to 
our arrival ; while we were there they had several showers. 

The smallpox list was so far reduced on the 8th of July as to enable 
the commodore to put to sea, when, after a passage of eight days, we 
arrived at Callao, a regular south wind continuing during the passage. 
Two sporadic cases of smallpox occurred after our arrival.^ 

On the 32d of August sailed from Callao, having been there thirty-five 
days ; the thermometer ranging at 69°, and the barometer at 29.77, with 
a daily average of twenty-eight on the sick-report. A constant mist and 
fog filled the atmosphere, and was so heavy as to supply the place of rain 
which was much dreaded by the natives, as this is the sickly season when 
dysenteries, intermittent fevers, and pulmonary diseases obtain. Several 
cases of low grade of fever occurred in thi» part, which frequently prevails 
throughout the shipping ; it is attended witl^ a small and frequent pulse, 
and great prostration. Dr. Ruschenberger, surgeon of the U. S. ship Fal- 
mouthf has seen much of this disease, and found small and frequent doses 
of the submur. hydrarg. et pulv. antimonialis (calomel and Jameses pow- 
der), the most successful in its treatment. Fourteen cases of adenetes 
were admitted to the list, which in the crew usuaUy terminated in 
suppuration. 

On the 22d sailed for Pajrta, where we arrived in three days ; and 
although so short a distance from Callao, where we were constantly en* 
veloped in fogs and mist, we here found the climate all we could desire, 
— a clear, dry atmosphere, regular winds that prevent the extreme heat of 
the day, and but little change of the thermometer at night. On the 36th 
sailed for the Galapagos Islands, and in six days anchored in Essex Bay, 
Charles Island, lat. 1° 13' south. A large number of the crew were 
daily on shore after terapin, and frequently exposed throughout the day 
to a hot sun, with those immense animals on their backs, travelling over 
the broken lava ; yet the health of the sh^^s company remained compare* 
tively good. Ardent spirits could not be procured, and the crew were 
kept upon their regular allowance. Essex Bay was frequently visited 
during the late war by Commodore Porter, and it was found to contribute 
materially to the health of his ships* con^anies. 

A settlement is now being made on the island, which promises to do 
much good ; they have located on the high and fertile parts of the island, 
where the temperature is much lower than in the bay, and the residentSi 
who are from Guayaquil, complain much of the cold. 

Our whale-ships firequently touch at Vhis port, and never suffer from 
the climate. The crews of our whale-ships are temperate, and always 
wear flannel ; their only wants are vegetables, for which they frequently 
suffer during their long periods at sea. 

As our crew were much predisposed to bowel complaints after our visit 
to India, there was a return of dysentery, attended with some of the high 
inflammatory symptoms, tormina, and tenesmus, that characterized the 
disease at Batavia. They were copiously bled, emetics of ipecacuanha 
administered, followed by large doses of the submur. hydrarg. We 
remained ten days in port, during which the ten^rature ranged at 73% 



*■ 



548 APPENDIX. 

barometer stood at 39.90 ; when we sailed for Guayaquil, and anchared 
at the Island of Puna in eight days. There were thirty-eigfat caaea of 
dysentery and diarrhcea admitted within the last three weeks, and at this 
time there are twenty on the list ; eight cases of hepatitis occuxxed within 
the same period, which, however, yielded to medical treatment ; two cases 
of dysentery terminated fatally. During ten days at Puna, the sick-list 
averaged twenty-eight daily ; a majority of the patients were labouring 
under dysentery and diarrhcea. Guayaquil is very unhealthy during the 
wet season, when the rain descends in torrents, and continues for many 
weeks ; hepatitis, bilious and remitting fevers, prevaiL The natives arc 
remarkable for the clearness of their complexion, as the latitude is but 3^ 
south, and is occasioned by their frequent and protracted lains, and theii 
carefully protecting themselves from the sun. 

SaUed from Puna on the 88th of September, and arrived at Payta in throe 
days, at which time there wer« twenty-eight on the sick-list. The few 
days we remained in this port the list was reduced to fifteen, which were 
cluonic cases of dysentery, the sequel of the disease on board at the Gal< 
apagos Islands. The climate of Payta is the most salubrious on thf 
coa^ pf Peru, and is remarkable for the uniformity of temperature, drynesi 
of die atmosphere, and regularity of the winds ; the thermometer during the 
year ranges at 70°. The dense fogs of Callao, and the heavy rains oi 
Guayaquil, are equally unknown here. Payta is the port of Piura, a cit]p 
with a population of four thousand, and so called from the purity of the 
atmosphere. The river, which flows past the city, passes through niniiliin 
of the smUax sarsapariUa ; from which it is said to obtain medicinal quali- 
ties, which, together with the serenity of the atmosphere, make it the 
resort of invalids from this part of the coast. 

The cruising ground of the ships employed in the sperm-whale fisheries 
is directly ofi" this port, and, in consequence of its easy access and the 
excellence of the market, it is much frequented by them. 

American whale-ships never carry medical ofiicers, as is the case in the 
English and French whale-ships ; in consequence of the pecuhar liability 
to accidents, and their long cruises at sea, niany lives are lost and much 
suffering produced for want of medical aid. The establishment of an hos- 
pital at some convenient port would be the means of alleviating much 
human misery and distress, at the same time it would foster this great 
; school of hardy seamen. Payta is peculiarly adapted for this purpose, 

I where an hospital oould be established at a trifling expense ; it is slso a 

I proper place for the sick of our squadron, where they could be piacod in 

i charge of a medical officer, and kept until the departure of one of our ship^ 

of-war for the United States ; instead of being cooped up in nwffrhint 
vessels, without medical attendance, for four months during their ftasage 
home through the most inclement and unhealthy regions on the globs. The 
expenses that are annually incurred in sending sick officers and seamen 
from the Pacific station, would be amply sufficient to defray all the neces- 
sary expenses of an hospital. 

10th of October, sailed firom Payta, and in a few hours had a great 
change in temperature, the thermometer falling to 64°, with thick foggy 
weather, and the sick-Ust increased during the passage to forty. On the 
10th touched at Lambayeque, and arrived at Callao on the ilxh of OcuA>er, 



.*a 



APPENDIX. 649 

having been twenty-one days at sea aince our departure from Puna; 
during which time the thermometer ranged at 68°, and the proportion on 
the sick-list was thirty — a majority having derangement of the stomach. 
The Potomac remained twenty-sevea days at CaUao, the thermometer 
ranging at 60°, barometer at 20.65, with a much more clear and dry 
atmosphere than during our previous visit ; the-sick hst averaged thirty, 
including a number of cases of scrofula, which are very obstinate. 

2 1st of November, sailed from Lima, having at different periods of the 
cruise spent one hundred and twenty-seven days in this port ; which 
afforded abundant opportunities of observing the effects of climi^ upon 
foreigners, and witnessing the diseases that occur here. 

The Limaians are small in stature, and are short lived ; the frequent 
revolutions in Peru carry off most of their athletic male population, while 
the climate and dissipated lives they lead shorten the period of their exist- 
ence. The native Peruvians, who constitute four fifths of their popula- 
tion, are short, with very large chests, are fond of agricultural pursuitSi 
were conquered, and are governed, by a handful of Spaniards. Their 
phrenological organization indicates little intellectual development, while 
their animal propensities are also diminutive ; their habits and character 
strongly corroborate these indications ; for when left to themselvesprlhey 
diligently cultivate their fields, live amicably, and are hospitable and firicfidly ; 
while the sentiments and faculties located in the superior and posterior 
portions of the cranium are much enlarged. Hence, when visited by 
Pliarro, they called themselves the children of the sun, and were far ad- 
vanced in agriculture and the arts, while the sciences and warfare were 
scarcely known among them. , 

Our sick-list in Callao was usually large — an average of thiity-two ; of 
which adenetes, or enlargement of the glands of the groin, constituted a 
large number. These indurations could seldom be resolved, notwithstand- 
ing the most active and varied treatment that could be enforced ; in the 
officers, whose constant rest could be maintained, pediluvium (the foot- 
bath), cataplasms, and frictions, would occasionally prove useful, but 
rarely with the crew. They usually suppurate, and produce indolent 
ulcers, and are to be met with in every ship-of-war that visits Peru. The 
best prophylactics are, carefully avoiding the heavy mists, wearing flannel 
next the skin, and attention to the slightest injury or laceration of the 
skin on the lower extremities. Chronic hepatitis also frequently occurs, 
while the acute form of the disease is rarely met with. 

Arrived at Valparaiso in twenty-five days, having met with calms and 
adverse winds; the average sick during the passage was twenty-six. 
Off Juan Fernandez we met with fresh head winds, which continued 
several days, during which the thermometer fell to 60°, and was followed 
by six cases of acute hepatitis, while many were labouring under colds 
and catarrhs. During the passage eight were admitted with bilious fever, 
who all convalesced immediately after our arrival in Chili, where the 
weather is dry and temperate at this season. 

We remained fifty-three days at Valparaiso, during which time the 
thermometer averaged 60^, with constant pleasant weather, the barometer 
standing at SO. 70 ; the average on the sick-list was eighteen, which was 
made up of slight accidents and indispositions resulting firom indulgence 



j660 APPENDIX. 

.on shore. A quarter-gunner, one of the most athletic and useful men in 
the ship, lost his life by a fall on shore, when in a state of intoxication, and 
a case of phthisis terminated fatally. The only cases of importance that 
occurred were several cases of hepatitis and intermittent fever. At this 
season (their summer months) dysenteries and inflammation of the liver 
prevail among the natives, and the former frequently prove fatal. I 
attended a case of the latter in a Mr. Blanco, a gentleman who had been 
educated at our military academy at West Point, and promised much future 
usefulness to his young country ; h« had resided several years in the port, 
and was much debilitated by previous indisposition. The progress of the 
disease was twice arrested, and every indication was favourable ; but, not- 
withstanding the most vigorous treatment, suppuration took place, which 
put a period to his existence. We spent one hundred and sixty days at 
Valparaiso, at different seasons of the year, and uniformly had a small 
sick-list. The climate of ChiU is one of the best in the world ; and this 
port was so peculiarly grateful to the Spaniards who came here fn»n the 
coast of Peru, that they gave it the name of the " Yale of Paradise.^ 

The Chilanoes are a robust and vigorous race, and frequently reach a 
great age, are capable of enduring much fatigue, and spend much of their 
time on horseback. The smallpox is endemic, and destroys many per- 
sons annually ; and the state of medical science is so low that vaccination 
has not yet become universal. 

An inflammatory fever, attended with much cerebral congestion, pre- 
vails during the autumn months, and sometimes assumes the form of an 
epidemic, which proves very fatal, and is considered to be contagious by 
the natives, who give it the name of chaoolunga ; and which they treat 
with the infusion of eonchelaguoy an indigenous plant, which ia a powerful 
diaphoretic. 

The state of the medical sciences is very low on the coast, as there 
are no schools of medicine, and the native practitioners being from the 
lower orders of life, and uneducated, they command little respect ; and 
their practice, which consists in the administration of the plants of the 
icountry, is attended with little success. 

9th of February, sailed from Valparaiso, and met with head winds, which 
icontinued until we reached the fiftieth degree of south latitude, with cold, wet 
weather ; on the 6th of March we were off Cape Horn, in 67® south latitude, 
at which time the thermometer stood at 46°, and the barometer at 29.80, 
with thirty-six on the sick-report. The character of the diseases had 
much changed since our departure from Valparaiso ; pleuritis (pleurisy), 
cynanche tonsillaris (sore throat), and rheumatism, now swelled the list, 
and many of the crew were unwell who did not go on the list, as they 
were desirous to continue on duty during the passage home. Af^r 
H doubling Cape Horn we met with fresh, favourable breezes, which con- 

tinued until our arrival at Rio de Janeiro. The lowest point reached by 
I the thermometer during the passage was 43®, and the average on the 

" sick-list was thirty-three ; three fourths of which were labouring under 

i nfl am m atory aflfections, produced by the cold and wet weather. 

Arrived at Rio on the 23d of March, where we remained sixteen days. 
This is the rainy season ; and although there were frequent showers during 
the day, the quantity of rain was very smalL The avecuv standinff of 



I 



'i 

i 



APPENDIX. • 5S1 

Ike thermometer was 78^, and the barometer 29.78, with twenty-nine on 
4he sick-list. 

After leaving Rio, a number of cases of diarrhcBa came on .the list, and 
our progress was slow until after we crossed the equator, which we did on 
the 27th of April, with the thermometer at 82°, and twenty-seren on the 
sick-list. We arrived at Boston after a passage of forty-four days, during 
which time the proportion on the siok-list was twenty-«ight, on the 2dd 
of May, at which time the whole ship's company were so well as to be 
able to take their discharge except six, who were transferred to the hos- 
pital — ^two with phthisis, one wxdi fractured tibia, and the remaining 
three with chronic rheumatism. 

The Potomac has been absent nearly three years, and the total number 
of deaths during that period was twenty-five, of which 

16 died of dysentery, 
3 consumption, 

I hepatitis (inflammation of the liver), 
I concealed hernia (rupture), 
I hydrocephalus (dropsy of the brain), 

1 injured spine, 

2 shot at the attack on Quallah-Battoo. 

25 Total. 

During the cruise seven of the crew, including two of the junior officers, 
were sent to the United States in consequence of ill health. 

The average number of souls on board was four hundred and ninety, 
including thirty officers, of which we were so fortunate as not to lose one 
during the cruise. Our number of deaths was less than is usual on shore 
among the same number of adults — ^three out of every hundred being the 
yearly proportion ; which would have given the Potomac forty-five deaths 
during the cruise. It must however be remembered, that at the time of 
sailing we were considered all in good health. The daily average of all 
excused from duty, in consequence of illness and slight injuries, for more 
than three years, while I was on board, was twenty-eight ; which may be 
considered a large list. This, however, being the first cruise of the 
Potomac, we should expect a large sick-list, as new ships are always 
more unhealthy than old ones, — a circumstance supposed to be owing to 
the large quantities of salt used in building, which, attraqfing humidity 
from the atmosphere, renders the ship damp, and consequently unhealthy. 
The Brandywine was very sickly during her first two cruises, which was 
attributed to her being freely salted. 

The Potomac has her galley on the birth-deck, and is the only frigate 
in the service that has it placed there ; and was thought by many of the 
senior officers to contribute to the health of the ship— an opinion in whkAii 
with due deference, I cannot concur ; as I consider cleanliness and dry- 
ness the best prophylactics on board ship— circumstances that cannot 
exist when the galley is placed on the lower deck. 

In the cheerful and contented condition of the crew, with a constant 
state of employment, can be traced the health of the ship ; to which a 
theatrical con^pany, a weekly newspaper, and relaxa^on from severe mili<> 



:t 



B62 . ' APPENDIX. 

tarj discipline during our long passage across the Indian and Faci£c 
Oceans, materially contributed ; to which should be added the judicious 
]x>lice enforced on board ship during our visits to the most insalubrious 
ports on the globe. About one third of the crew had the spirituous por- 
tion of their ration stopped during the cruise, and it was found they were 
more frequently on the sick-list than those who drank their grog. This 
was owing to their being mostly boys and landsmen, who had never been 
to sea before, and would consequently not enjoy as good health as old 
sailors. A reduction in the quantity of grog issued would contribute 
much to the health of our ships' crews ; and giving it to them ofter^ 
instead of before meals, would prevent intoxication (which usually follows 
from taking a gill of spirits on an empty stomach), and pressm the health 
and lives oY our sailors. This subject has been repeatedly viged by our 
ablest surgeons, yet it is unattended to. 

During more than five hundred days at sea we never lost a man by a 
Hall from aloft or overboard ; and as the latter is an accident of very fre- 
quent occurrence, a few brief hints on the mode of treatment may not be 
out of place. So soon as out of water, hold the head in such a position 
as to permit the water in the mouth to discharge ; then apply your mouth 
to that of the patient and inflate the lungs, at the same time press upon the 
ribs so as to imitate respiration, and continue this as long as there is a 
possibility of restoration ; while the attendants are rubbing the body and 
extremities with coarse woollens, put the feet in warm water, or, if con- 
Tenient, lay the patient in a warm bed. Drowned persons die from sufib- 
ication ; the indications therefore are, to supply the lungs with str, and 
restore the natural temperature of the body. Many lifes have been lost 
in fruitless attempts to evacuate the water from the chest, where it cannot 
enter until after death ; and, when once there, all attempts at respiration 
will be fruitless. 

When we compare the state of the health of our crew with that of early 
navigators, the improvements in modem navigation are found to be truly 
great. Lord Anson sailed from England with eight vessels, and one 
thousand nine hundred and eighty souls ; out of which only a single ship^s 
company, the Centurion, performed her voyage of circumnavigation. The 
early Spanish and Dutch navigators were equally unfortunate. 

The great improvements in the marine police adopted by Captain 
Cooke during his voyages round the world, have benefited navigators as 
much as hisjgeographical discoveries ; but it must be borne in mind that 
his ships were small, and small vessels are more healthy than larger ones ; 
at the same time, that his crews were in a constant state of excitement, 
anxiously looking forward to the discoveries they were almost daily 
making, being satisfied they would receive a proper reward upon their 
return home. In this, cheerfulness and cleanliness, consist the only 
good prophylactics on board ship. 

Medical Bureau, Washington, 1836. 



APPENDIX. **> 653 



List of Officers^ tffc, on board the Potomac when she sailed from the Citf 

ofNew'York, 

Commodore — John Downes. 

Lieutenants — Irvine Shubrick, Stephen B. Wilson, Reuben R. Pinkhanit 
Henry Hoff, Jonathan Ingersoll. 

Surgeon- — Samuel Jackson. 

Commodore*s Secretary — Nathaniel K. G. Oliver. 

Sailingmaster — Robert S. Tatem. 

Second Master — ^John Barry: 

Chaplatn-^ohn W. Grier. 

Purser — William A. Slacum. 

Assistant Surgeons — Jonathan M. Foltz, Henry Dewitt Pawling. 

Passed Midshipmen — Henry Tooley, junri, Sylvanus Gddon. 

Master's Mate — Charles de Selding. 

Midshipmen — Francis P. Hoban, William May, Allen M'Lane, James 
G. Stanley, John W. Taylor, George Sinclair, Henry C. Hart, James 
H. Popplerton, William T. Cocke, James L. Parker, Charles Wm. Morris, 
George M. Totten, Charles Hunter, James B. Lewis, Micajah Claiborne, 
Eugene Boyle, Levi Lincoln, junr. 

Schoolmaster — Francis Warriner. 

Captain's Clerk — Erskine Stansbury. 

Boatswain — John M*Nelly. 

Crunner — John R. Covington. 

Carpenter — WQliam E. Sheffield. 

Sailmaker — Christian Nelson. 

Mari5b OrriccRS 

First Lieutenant — ^Alvin Edson. 
Second Lieutenant — George H. Terrett. 

Supernumeraries to join schooner Dolphin — Sailingmaster Benj. J. Totten, 
Assistant Surgeon Cornelius Moore, Midshipmen Wm. P. Taylor, Joseph 
C. Walsh, Alonzo B. Davis. 

RcCAPITULATIOir. 

Officers 40 

Supernumerary officers .... 5 

Petty officers 38 

Seamen 171 

Ordinary seamen 118 

Landsmen 66 

Boys 28 

Marines, officers and privates . . 44 

Total ... 600 



METEOROLOGICAL TABLES. 



7^ foUowing MeUoTological Record vat 
1833, ^Dh^U at the port of Coquimio, Chili, u. 
continued until the arrieal of the Potomac at 



1 the I«( of J 
I eoatt of South Atneriea ; 





IHUHDHtttlL 


HlHOKtTlfc. 


■Wind* 




DrtP 


-1- ~ 


13 8 


8 


la 


8 


Wnthar 








«x- 










1833, ' 
















June 1 


60" 


GL 65 


39.80 


39.85 


29.83 


8<d.&E-d 


Fur 
















39 


85 


S.E.&8.W. 


Flit 






60 161 








80 


39 


80 


VuiaGle 


Clondr 






60 64 










29 


82 


Do. 


Fair 








56 




94 






29 


80 


N.E. to 8.W. 


Fmij 






63 


«D 


39 








39 


78 


Do. 


LJgfaipuHoS cloud* 




6t 


69 


«3 


39 


78 




73 


39 


75 


Tuitble 


F»ir 




es 


63 


66 


29 


70 


39 


70 


39 


7S 


Northw«id 


cn^^^ 




Bl 


61 


56 


30 


00 


30 


00 


30 


oo 


N.fcW. 




ee 


66 


62 


39 


75 


39 


73 


£9 


75 


Do. 


Fur 




63 


63 


66 


39 


78 


29 


80 


29 


85 


Tuiible 


Fiir 




63 


63 


65 


39 


90 


29 


95 


29 


95 


Do. 


CtoDdT 




60 


63 166 




88 


29 


85 


39 


SO 


Sonthli. 


Fut 






60 65 




70 


39 


70 


39 


H2 


N. &W. 


Thick udfbtiT 






63 66 




85 


39 


85 


29 


85 


8. * W. 


Twit 




60 








29 




29 


96 


NoTthwud 


Kuj 




61 


63' 4 




95 






39 




N. &E. 


Fair 




59 


56 4 


29 


88 


29 


85 


39 


^8 


S, 4.E. 


Fur 




59 


62 4 


29 


BO 


39 


75 


39 


75 


Noithwird 


Fur 


30 


68 


58 3 


29 


72 


29 


75 


29 


75 


N &W. 


Cloudj 


SI 


58 


59 3 


S9 


73 


29 


72 




73 


Yatubtt 


Clooi^ 


iW 


59 


58 3 


29 


73 


39 


73 






. t*"-. 


Cloodr 


S3 


60 


60 




75 


S9 


80 


29 




^Bri^ 


Clondjr.'^^ruii 


34 


59 


61 




80 


29 


85 


29 


86 


35 


63 


60 64 






29 


85 


29 


85 


S'd.&Wd. 


Fur 


38 


6S 


69 63 




90 


39 




29 


90 


Do. 


Fiir 


27 


53 


60 ea 


39 


90 


29 




39 


75 


Vaiimble 


Fut 


28 


03 


63 ■e 


39 


70 


39 




29 


75 


e-d. A wd. 


Fur 


29 


03 


83 6i 


29 


80 


29 




29 


80 




Claudj 




00 


62 


83 


39 


80 


39 


80 


39 




C»lm 


F»ii 


Julj 1 


58 


59 


83 


39 


80 


39 


80 


39 


80 


S'd, dc E'd. 


FUt 




t^ 


fiG 


66 


39 


80 


39 


80 




80 


Do. 


Fw 




56 


-55 


63 


39 


SO 


29 


SO 






Vuuhig 


Fmir 






63 


60 


29 


95 


29 


95 






S'd- ft E'd. 






53 


59 




29 






75 




90 


Vtiiibla 


s 




A5 








90 




90 




91) 


Light tin 




£6 




66 


39 


86 


39 


75 


39 


75 


Do. 




«B 


*r 


66 


39 


80 


39 




29 


80 


Dd. 


Fiii' 




U 






30 


05 


SO 


00 


30 


00 


TntriO* 


Fiii 



APPENDIX. 





Latitude. 


Longilude 


THEIIXO.. 


■..ton (till. 


W«fr 


Windft. 


— 


Date. 














W 










t?. 


^ 


'J!. 


*" 


"- 


^'•- 


















jiijg 


29" 32' S 


71 


53' W 


54° 


55 


M" 


30.05 


30 00 


30.00 


68° 


Vanabla 


1 


1(1 


25 H 


74 


15 






60 




00 


la'.M 


39.90 


601 


8S B 






23 43 


7B 


OB 




HS 


63 


2S 


9; 


Z9.SS 


S9.BS 


63 


si: 






19 13 


77 


18 






66 


se 




39.75 


29. TS 


63 


do 






15 63 


77 


40 


67 




66 


S9 


7; 


39.66 


29.75 


6S 


^f' 






13 30 


77 




G4 


BU 


64 


S9 


75 


39.70 


39.75 


61 






13 21 


77 


04 


84 


65 


65 


39 


75 


39.75 


30,75 


83 








ClllBO. 






S4 


66 




to 


78 


SB. 78 


39.78 










da 






B3 


65 




39 


80 


29.70 


39.70 










do 






B4 


65 




"9 


7fi 


29.75 


39.75 








11 


do 






64 






29 


75 


29.75 


20.76 








SO 


do 






84 


84 


(13 


SB 


75 


29.70 


29.70 








SI 


do 






68 


67 


fiS 




TO 


39.75 


39.73 








sa 


do 






64 


ns 


66 


9 


SO 


29.75 


39.76 




South. 


a 


S3 


do 






84 


66 


fla 






29. 7S 


39.73 




Sd.&Ed 




I 


dn 






86 


64 


67 




73 


29.73 


S9.78 




swiiT 


Cl 


do 








6g 


60 


29 


70 


S9.70 


29.78 




Sd.&Ed. 




M 


do 








6lj 


67 


29 


75 


39.76 


30.76 








ST 


do 






66 


67 


6S 


39 


80 


29.80 


39.80 




SouUl 




S8 


do 






84 


ee 




29 


sa 


29.80 


29.80 




M^Ed. 




S9 


do 






66 


60 


66 


29 


80 


29.80 


29. SO 








2? 


do 








6J 


8S 


39 


75 


29.75 


39.76 




Calm. 


CI 


. ^' 


do 








64 


84 


39 




S9.73 


3B.7a 






Aug. . 


do 






flfl 


BS 


67 


29 




29.75 


29.76 










do 






61 


CO 


68 


39 


80 


S9.80 


39.80 










do 






6S 




64 


29 


75 


39.75 


39.76 




do 






do 






64 


lie 


87 


39 


70 


29.70 


S9.70 




do 


F. 
CI 




do 






87 


66 




36 


70 


29.70 


SB. 70 




do 




do 






87 


6B 


87 


29 


T6 


S9.75 


89.76 




do 




do 






87 


67 


87 


SS 


75 


S9.78 


19. 7S 










do 
do 






87 


87 


BS 


S» 


76 


39.75 


B9.76 




SddiEiL 








87 


87 


68 


39 




39.78 


39.78 








1( 


do 






■1 


66 


66 






29.78 


29.78 




do 




ii 


do 
do 
do 
do 










III 


80.75 
19.75 

29.78 
i9.73 




do 
do 
do 
do 


Vmi 
Cl 


11 

IB 


do 








:■■>., .-.JL.. 75 S9. 75 




Vinable 


Vu 






1.1 <<.fiH 


jy.75i;:!i.75 


89.75 




SiicEA 








67 






23 


73 


2B.73 


39.72 




do 




It 


do 






OB 
G7 


67 
69 


68 
07 


29 
29 


75 


39.72 
39.72 


39.72 
S9.70 




Vuiabla 












G6 


87 


67 


39 




29. 7S 


S9.73 








SI 








66 


66 


66 


30 


73 


39.73 


39.^3 






s 


33 


i!o 






66 


67 


66 




72 


39.7 


39.75 






a; 


10° S3' S 


78° 


35' W. 


63 




69 




78 


29. 7 


!|9.70 






% 


7 S6 


80 


19 


68 




71 




75 


29.7 


S9.75 


ea 


dn 






^t. ^^ 


HI 


H 


09 




70 


29 


78 


39.7S 


S9.78 


68 


do 




as 


Pajla. 






70 




71 


39 


78 


29.7 


29.78 




Tonabla. 






3° 40' S 


83 


13 


70 






39 


78 


29.78 


89.78 


66 


Sd^Rd. 






3 03 


SB 


07 


70 




70 


39 


78 


29.78 


39.78 


68 


South. 




30 
31 

3 


I 3! 


na 




71 




70 


38 


73 


■i9.75 


39.73 


67 


VuiBble 




I 13 






71 


71 




29 


7S 


29. 7W 


39.78 


70 


do 




Eatx B»y- 


tW.p«go.. 


eg 

71 


7U 


71 


29 
29 




39.78 
39.78 


S:;i 




8d.4iEd- 










71 




70 


39 




29.76 


39.76 




Vvubl. 








do 


70 




70 


39 




39. 7S 


39.76 




8<L&Ed. 






da 
do 
do 
do 






72 




73 


39 




39.75 


39.71 












do 


72 




78 


SO 


71 


39.70 


39.73 




Sd.«Ed 








do 


73 




73 


29 


73 


29.73 


89. 7| 




Vmntbl*. 


Cl 










75 


2B 


7a 


29.73 






S8W 




9 
ID 
11 






73 




71 


39 


70 


30.72 


89 172 




VwHbU. 


a 


1" 31' S, 
S OS 


S0° 
90 


61' W, 


71 
70 


■Ii 
70 


73 

79 
7S 


39 
30 

19 


78 
70 
TO 


39.70 

r4 


a«.70 


70 
68 


£A 





APPBKDIX. 





Luitode. 




THIIiaUH. 


»AilaiikTiiP.. 




Wind., 




Ihtt. 












WM-r. 


Westlrt. 


















JL^ 








1833, 
























StpklS 


!• 36' a. 


89° 


S3 W 


70» 70 


73° 


99.72 


29.73 


39.72 


74" 


Sd&Ed, 


ViriiblB. 


la 


1 37 






72 7:! 


72 




•;a.^a 


J9.72 




do 


Cloudy. 


u 


2 00 


8J 




71 ■-■. .: 


^■1 .-J -■..-'■^•1.73 




Vinsble. 


do 


IS 


S 40 


81 


37 




■:i.76 


70 


SoulhM. 


do 


16 


3 18 


Uulf Guuf- 




. -'1,68 


76 


VarnblH. 


r.ir. 


17 


Puni, 


^^^. 




. .■■■1,70 




NddcWd 


do 


18 
19 


Gu.yaqoU. 






VI '.'■ ' 


.|'J:i.'?0 




Vart^le. 
Wwlw'd 


Cloudy. 

F»ir. 


30 


do 












Vuithlt^. 


Cloudy. 


SI 


do 












W«MWd 


do 


S3 


do 








■■■it. 70 




Nd&Wd 


do 


S3 


do 






74 ... 1 




,ii ;■■ .'^-J'J.IO 




Variable. 


Filr. 


S4 


do 






J5 ../ 








;.J.iU:iU,70 






do 


SG 


do 






74 |7m 




.ia 




.;9. 70 39.70 




8d&Wd 


do 


S6 


do 






76 77 


77 


28 




29.70 39.70 




Weatw'd 


Cloudy. 


a? 


do 






75 [7( 


76 


29 


70 


39.70 29.73 




Sd&Wd 


Fur. 


S8 


do 










VJ 


72 


■29.70 39.70 




do 


do 


3S 


3' 21' 8 


80° 


38' W 










?■>.<;.'• 'M. 65 


79 


Viriiblf. 


do 


»U 


i 07 












78 


sciiWd 


do 


Oct 1 


4 61 

P»yu. 


81 


40 


I;'j ^ .' 


'■- ': ■'. ■■:'^;;:6fl 


63 


Sd.&Ed. 
do 


do 
do 


3 


do 








;■. ■■ -Jii.OS 






do 


4 


do 








. . ■ J. ■■■■■:;■. 65 




do 


do 


S 


do 






73 .; ■■' 


;■. ■ ■■:■., 05 






do 


e 

7 


do 

do 






111 '■. 


■■■;!!. 6fi 




South'd. 
do 


do 
do 




da 






71 .■ .- 






Sd.&Ed 


do 


9 


do 






7S 


.-■-J. 66 




da 


do 


10 


5' 33' S 

e 13 


81- 


Bl'W 


<is . 


;. ■ .'■■ri.70 


71 
71 


do 
do 






6 23 


81 


02 






67 


di> 






S 46 


80 


31 




;.'■".! .■:;i!75 


63 


do 


do 










70 iu . > 


:■..,..■:■( ,11^11.70 




do 


do 


16 


do 






!U h, ,'. 








39.70 




do 


do 


16 


8' 63' S 


80° 


low 




■iU 


75 


39.75 


39.75 


84 


do 


do 


17 


7 37 




OS 


87 (18 






76 


39. 7S 


89.75 


65 


do 


do 




7 fi7 


73 


47 


65 m 


86 


ll 


70 


39.70 


29.70 


65 


do 


do 


19 


8 29 


79 


S3 


04 jaa 


68 


70 


39.70 


39.70 


67 


do 


do 


90 


9 04 


79 


24 


85 


67 






70 


39.70 


39.70 


66 




do 


SI 


9 31 




00 


U7 


69 






70 


39.70 


39.70 


67 




Cloudy. 


ss 


9 41 












29 




MB. 70 


39.70 


66 


do 


Kur. 


ia 


10 06 


7B 


17 




6b 


06 


28 


70 


39.70 


99.70 


65 


do 


Cloudy. 




to BS 


78 


37 


ee 


S8 


H9 


■29 


70 


39.70 


28.70 


68 


do 


F>u. 


S6 


11 15 


78 


U 


66 


88 


08 


29 


06 


39. 6S 


28.65 


66 


do 


Cloudy. 


36 


11 47 


77 


G3 


66 


67 


07 


39 


85 


39.7(J 


28.70 


66 


do 


FBir. 


»7 


ClIlBO. 






66 


6S 






7f 




39.68 






do 


SS 










68 




2fl 




39i68 


29.68 




Vanible. 


do 


19 


do 






66 


68 


68 






38.63 


39.05 




Nd*Wd 


do 


ao 


do 






68 


72 




S9 


fl! 


20. 6S 


39.85 




VuisblB. 




81 


do 






68 


70 


70 


S9 




39.88 


29.88 




&i.&E'l. 




ITOT. 1 


do 






66 


68 


68 


29 




39.66 


28.68 




do 


do 


S 


do 






88 


68 


68 


39 


68 


29.68 


S9.68 




V.niible. 


do 


8 


do 






68 


6S 




29 


68 


39.68 


28.68 




do 


cioiidr- 


4 








86 


67 


67 


39 


6S 


39.68 


39.65 




do 


do 


S 


do 






H6 


68 


69 


39 


65 


39.85 


29.65 




3d,atEd. 


Fsir. 


6 


do 






68 


68 


69 


29 


65 39.66 


29.85 




do 


do 




do 






68 


70 


70 


29 


68 29.68 


39.68 




do 


Cloudy. 


8 


do 






67 


69 


fl'J 


29 


68'29.66 


39.65 




Vsrisble. 


do 


9 


do 






6B 


70 


70 


2fi 


es!29.68 


29.68 




Sd.&Ed. 


do 


10 


do 






68 


70 






68139.68 


30.68 




Viriiih)«. 


do 


11 


do 






67 


70 


89 


3S 


68|29.69 


39.68 




Sd.4:Ed. 


Fur. 










67 


68 


68 


20 




29.66 






Cloudy. 


I 


do 






es 


68 


69 


38 


65139! 66 


39.65 




do 


F«r. 


* 1- 


do 






08 


70 


70 


39 


eslss.se 


39.65 




do 


do 


ts 


da 






0» 


70 


70 


19 


06 


IS9.U 


19.66 




do 


do 





Lslilude. 


LoDgitude. 


THERHOM. B.KOtlSTIll. 




Windi. 




Dtte. 


8 IH ci 8 13 8 


WM'r 


W« 












•JC.N- £J.. A.M. M. fit 














" 




67= n7(!7-' 29.fi.', 29.65 29.66 




Sd.A:Ed 




1833, 

»UT. 16 


C>U»o. 


Oa 






do 






56 Waj l.."..r.. -<.,«« -JS 


GS 




V.nia.lB 


d 


ii 




do 
do 








68 
68 




Sd.&.EA 

da 


F. 


so 




do 






:i' ■■ " '■■"'-^1' 








A 


SI 




da 












do 


Clo 


31 


3" 


07' 8. 


78» 43' W 






67* 


da 


F. 


2S 


6 


13 


80 


30 


67 




liT ;-!],6l- 


,i;i.6.s 


29 






do . 


d. 


24 


6 


50 


81 


61 


67 




68 20,70 


29.70 


J9 


70 




do 


Ctoi 


25 


T 


66 


82 


65 




70 


68 20,76 


29.75 


29 


76 


89 


do 


d 


36 




to 


S4 


09 


08 


70 


69 211,7,-i 


29.75 


29 


78 




do 


d 


>7 


21 


GS 


6G 


27 


BO 


fid 


as 29.80 


39.80 


29 


85 


68 1 


do 


F» 


38 


33 


34 


87 


20 


67 




GS 29. B5 


^9.85 


39 


R5 


69 


do 


& 


sa 


3S 


6S 


88 


37 


67 


68 


68 129.90 


29.00 


29 


90 


89 


do 


d 


30 


36 








68 


89 


6S 29.00 


S9.90 






69 


do 


d< 


Dec, ] 














8 'ao.oo 


30.00 


30 


00 


68 


Vari.blo. 


di 






17 






lis 


09 


70 30,00 


30.00 30 


OO 








; 




46 




12 


70 


70 




30.00 


30.00 


30 


00 


86 


Sd-&Ed. 


d 




30 


M 




05 


88 


H7 


70 




.i9.95 


29 


95 




Vuiablr-. 


Van 


! 


31 


23 


8 


08 


68 


8e 


63 


29.96 


30.30 


30 


00 


69 


Sd.&Ed 


Fb 


6 


33 


00 


B 


12 






71 




30.00 


30 


W 


68 


l.«n»t4o. 


d. 


7 


31 


5fi 


8 


37 


70 




72 


O'.K 


30.00 


30 




72 


do 


d. 


8 


32 


16 




23 


70 




70 


29. OS 


a9.95 






67 


South'd 


d 


9 


31 


36 




00 






66 


28.96 


29. B6 


30 


00 


63 


Sd.&Ed 


Clot 


10 








63 


63 


64 




30.05 


30.05 


30 


05 


64 




n 


11 


31 




8 


63 


63 


63 




0,05 


30.05 


30 


a 


64 




d 


IS 


31 




« 


31 


fli 


63 




30.00 


30.no 


30 




do 


Cle> 


IS 


31 


63 


7 


S3 


66 


63 


67 


29.8,^ 


29.85 


29 


85 


62 


do 


A 


14 


33 




7 


36 


64 


61 


RS 


"9 86 


"9.85 


29 


85 


62 


do 


d 


11 


33 


33 


7 


31! 










9.85 


29 




ea 


do 


F> 








7 


33 










29.76 


39 


7fi 


68 


Souihd- 


d 


»■ 
















9.76 


39 


TS 




SddcEd. 




18 




do 














9.75 


29 


7S 




do 


d 


19 




do 














9.76 


SB 


76 




do 


d 


» 




do 














9.68 


29 


68 




Ttrisblr. 


Cloi 


SI 




do 














9.70 


39 


70 




Sd.diF.d 


P. 


S3 




do 














9.70 


29 


70 




Vari,ble 


Ckn 


S3 




do 














9.70 


£9 


70 




SddiEd 


Fn 


M 




do 














9.68 








VaiBblB 


di 


Z3 




do 














9.60 








Nonh'd, 


Clot 


SI 


















1.65 


29 


6.1 




do 


d> 






do 














9.75 


29 


75 




do 


it 






do 














9-78 


S9 


78 




SddcWd 


Fa 






do 














9-78 


St 


78 






Ckn 






do 
do 














9.70 
9.70 


29 
29 


70 
70 




Sd.&Ed 

do 


F~ 


1834, 






























Jin. 1 




do 
do 








7" 






9.66 
9.80 


39 
39 


5t 




Sd&Wd 
Sd.&Ed 


d< 
dc 






do 














9.66 


39 


86 




do 


d( 






do 
do 










68 




9.70 
9.65 


29 
29 


70 
86 




V-«i.ble. 
do 


dt 
d> 






do 














9.65 


29 


66 




Nd&Ed 


di 






do 












9.6S 


29 


65 




Vuuble, 


d( 






do 
do 












1 9.76 
1 9,76 




76 

70 




Nd&Ei] 

Nd&Wd 


d< 
d< 






do 












9.65 


iS 


65 




Vsmble. 








do 






66 






g.65 


39 






do 








^ 












9.65 


20 






do 


d. 






do 












39.70 


39 






SdiWd 


d 






do 












1 9.75 


39 


76 




Sd.&Ed 


d. 






do 












9.66 


39 


60 




do 


d. 






do 








SO 




1 9,60 


29 


60 




do 


dl 






do 






68 


68 




38.65 


28 


66 




do 


Clot 


1( 




do 






•8. 




3 


39 88 


1».M 


W 


«5 




Vuitk. 


r. 





Latitude- 


LonpludB. 


TUIlaOH. 


»A»0»«T»«. 


Wat'r 


Windi 




Dim. 


8 


12 


Pj.. 


i**». 


" 


8 


W«Hh>. 
























Jul IB 


Vslparaiaa 






66. 


71 


70" 


29.60 


29.60 


39.60 




VBiuble 


Fur. 












64 




es 


29.60 


29.68 


29 


60 




3d&Wd 


du 


.XI 




do 










65 


39.68 


39.68 


39 


68 




VanablB 


Cloudj. 






do 






S3 


77 


m 


39.70 


29.70 


39 


70 




Norlli'd. 


Fwr. 




do 






64 


66 


«8 


39.66 


J9.65 


29 


65 




VuiablD. 


do 






do 








74 


73 


39.65 


30.66 


29 






Md.&Ed. 


do 




do 






66 




70 


39.65 


39.65 


39 


65 




Varnble, 








do 










70 


39.70 


39.70 


39 


70 




Sarib'd. 


Clo»dy. 






do 






67 


70 


70 


39.70 


39.70 


39 


70 




sd.&Ed. 


Eu.. 






do 






66 


71 


72 


39.70 


39.76 




75 




Viruble. 


d» 






do 






SB 


n 


7S 


sa.so 


39. SO 


39 






do 


du 






do 








70 


70 


29.70 


39.70 


39 






do 




ai 




do 






60 


70 


73 


39.68 


29.68 


39 






do 


do 


Ftb. 1 




do 






ee 


73 


73 


i9,70 


19.70 


3B 


75 




do 


do 


a 




do 






67 


71 




39.79 


39.78 


39 


78 




Sd.iEd. 


Cloudy. 


a 










68 


72 




39.75 


29.75 




75 




North'd, 


F»ir. 


4 
G 




do 






66 
67 


TO 
71 


71 
B9 


39,75 
39.75 


29.75 
29.75 


29 


75 




da 
V.r»ble. 


CloudT. 
do 


e 




do 








70 


71 


39.78 


29.78 


29 


78 




Nonh'd. 


do 


7 




do 






68 


l-i 


73 




«.78 


iB 


78 




do 


do 


6 




do 






71 


n 




29 >8 


29. 7S 


39 


78 




Sd-fltEd. 


Fair. 


» 




do 






ey 


72 


70 


39.70 


29.70 




70 




Vuiable. 


do 


10 


3a» 


26' S 


74- 


8S' W 


ey 


69 


69 


39.70 


S9.7S 




76 


68t> 


do 


do 


11 


33 


63 


7S 




70 


73 


BB 


39.85 


29.85 


39 


88 


73 


Sd.diEd. 


do 


11 


33 


47 


SO 


43 


71t 


73 


70 


39.90 


39.90 


39 


90 


73 


V.nnfald. 


do 


IS 


33 


46 






73 


73 


74 


39.95 


39.95 


39 


96 


73 


Sd.&Ed. 


do 


u 


J3 




82 


54 


74 




76 


39.85 


39.80 


3S 


80 


75 


Vanabie. 


do 


16 


J6 


04 


S3 


28 


73 


74 


70 


39.80 


29.80 


39 


76 


71 


do. 


Clowfr. 


16 


as 


60 


S3 




6S 


66 


65 


39.76 


29.80 


39 


80 




Sd&Wd 


Ran. 


17 


36 


49 


86 


00 


66 


66 


69 


30.00 


ao.io 


30 


10 


68 


SdAEd 


Ciwdj. 


IS 


3B 


65 


85 


01 




64 


67 


30.00 


30.0(1 


39 


90 


6St 


Sd&WJ 


19 


as 


47 


84 




67 


68 


66 


29.85 


39.85 


39 


55 


64 


do 


do 


SO 


40 


OS 


83 


64 




63 


66 


39.66 


29.76 


29 


SO 




SoolhlT 


R»i>. 


SI 


40 




85 


50 


62 


64 


61 


39.86 


39.80 


39 


90 


63 


Sd.ScFA. 


Fui- 


SI 


43 


'iH 


S5 


10 


61 


61 


iS 


39.76 


19. ^ 6 


39 


75 




Nd&Wd 


x;- 


S9 




68 


83 


80 


66 


61 




39.76 


39.60 


39 


80 




Soulh'lj. 


S4 


44 


43 


81 




63 


M 


i3 


39.80 


39-60 




80 


68 


SdiiWd 


do 


S6 


4* 


30 


84 




64 


52 


54 


39.85 


39.95 


30 


00 


5S 


Sd-itEd. 


do 


SS 


4S 


00 


81 


30 


86 


^41 


'Jb 


30.00 


10-00 


30 


00 


541 


Soulh'ly, 


Cloudy. 


97 


4H 




80 


43 


13 




So 


30.10 


30.20 


30 


10 


55 


.SdfltWd 


do 


SS 


4S 


36 


81 


36 


54 


^6 


54 


10.10 


30.00 


30 


00 


64 


do 


do 


Ilucht 




04 


SI 


45 


52 


SI 


)3 


39.80 


39.75 


S9 


70 


54 


do 


do , 


B 


49 


59 


79 


SO 


54 


65) 




39.30 


29.32 


29 


SO 




do 


do ■• 


J 


S3 


31 


77 


45 


60 


63 


48 


29.00 


39. OU 






49 


do 




65 


23 




31 


47 


47 


45 


39.00 


39.00 


» 


10 


48 


S.Vf. 


do 


( 


66 


3S 




04 




46 


60 


39.30 


39.30 


39 


so 


47 


WeaierlT 


do 


( 


67 


00 


68 


35 




48 


46 


39,05 


39.06 


39 


06 


48( 


Nd&Ed 


SqMUy. 




SS 




64 


53 




40 


4) 


H.60 


S9.S0 


39 


65 


43 


Sa.lcEd. 


do 


f 


63 




63 


16 


44 


48 


48 


39.86 


M.60 


39 


45 


48 


EuMriy 


Cloudy. 


S 


63 


39 


63 


es 


lai 


49 


47 


39.30 


30.30 


89 


30 


49 


V,n,hlc. 


ȴ* 


10 


49 


12 


65 


34 


IS 


49 


53 


39.30 


SB .30 


39 


30 


46 


sdiWd 


11 


48 


31 


ft3 


19 


58 


67 


56 


39.30 


39.30 


S9 


40 


67 


WfsierJy 
SdAWd 


Cloudy. 


13 


43 




53 


03 


69 




68 


39.60 


39.60 


SB 


60 


68 


Fiir. 


13 


14 


36 


50 


23 


58 


58 


57 


29.60 


39.60 


39 


60 


56 


Nd&Wd 


Clwdy. 


14 


43 


30 


47 


46 


61 




64 


39.40 


89.40 


39 


SO 


67 


do 


Foggy. 


l( 


41 


00 


45 




69 


69 




39.60 


39.80 


39 


70 


59 


Werterly 
Nd&Ed: 


Fut. 


fl 




M 




30 


67 


69 


66 


39.70 


29.70 


39 


65 


69 


do 


36 


63 






6S 


67 


66 


39.40 


39.60 


39 


60 


88 


Sd^wJ 


do 


IS 


3S 


15 


43 


30 


69 


73 


69 


39.65 


29.66 


39 


66 


71 


do 


IB 


34 


42 


43 


IS 


70 


70 


73 


29.60 


39.60 39 


6C 




Nonh-lT 
We«pr(v 


do 


tf SO 


33 


00 


41 


40 


71 




73 


29. 6C 


39.60 29 




73 




' SI 


SO 


40 


40 


16 


71 








29.86 29 


6! 


73 


do 


S3 


3S 


63 




30 


73 




75 


39ie( 


29.90 39 


90 


70 


Sd&Wd 


do 


33 


37 


67 


40 


60 


74 


73 




39.90 


29-90 39 


68 


77 


VuibMo 


do 


34 


3« 


60 


40 


66 


76 


7B 


76 


39.86 


39.86 


39 


86 


79 


SouthlT 


de 



660 












APPENDIX. 














Latitade. 


Longitude. 


THKBMOM. 1 


BAKOMBTBlt. 


Wafr. 


1 

Winds. 




Date. 


8 


12 


8 


8 


12 


8 


W 












▲.M. 


M. 


P.M. 


A.M. 


M. 


P.M. 








1834, 






















Mar. 25 


24«> 


29' 8. 


4XO 


27' W. 


76«> 


74 


78» 


29.85 29.85 


29.85 


60 


Sd.&£d. 


1 


26 










77 


30 


81 


29,76 


29.75 


29.75 




Easterly 




27 


Rio de 






77 


80 


79 


29.65 29.50 


29.50 




South'ly. 


a 


28 


Janeiro. 






80 


SO 


81 


29.68 29.66 


29.70 




do 




29 




do 






76 


75 


77 


29.76 29.76 


29.78 


i 


do 


] 


30 




do 






75 


77 


77 


29.76 29,65 


29.80 




do 


Cl 


31 




do 






77 


78 


80 


29.80 29.75 


29.75 




do 


] 


Apiil 1 




do 






78 


81) 


82 


29.70 29.65 


29.65 




do 




2 




do 






79 


76 


75 


29.78 


29.78 


29.78 




do 


I 


3 




do 






75 


77 


76 


29.85 


29.85 


29.85 




do 




4 




do 






75 


76 


78 


29.60 


29.80 


29.80 




do 


C] 


6 




do 






77 


76 


79 (29.80 


29.75 


29.75 




do 


1 


6 




do 






78 


76 


79 ,29.72 


29.70 


29.70 




do 


C] 


• 7 




do 






77 


74 


76 29.75 


29.75 


29.75 




do 




8 




do 






72 


76 


76 .29.85 


29.80 


29.80 




do 


] 


9 




do 






75 


77 


76 


29.80 


29.80 


29.80 


78 


do 1 


10 


240 


62' 


41 


35 


78 


79 


78 


29.80 


29.80 


29.80 


80 


Easterly 




11 


24 


14 


41 


13 


60 


60 


61 


29.85 


29.85 


29.85 


79 


do 




12 


24 


24 


40 


20 


60 


81 


60 


29.85 


29.85 


29.85 


80 


NddcEd. 




13 


24 


08 


39 


18 


80 


60 


61 


29.80 


29.75 


29.75 


80 


do 




14 


24 


16 


36 


48 


79 


61 


60 


29.75 


29.75 


29.75 


80 


do 




15 


23 


53 


35 


10 


80 


60 


60 


29.70 


29.75 


29.75 


79 


Northly. 


I 


16 


22 


51 


32 


25 


80 


81 


79 


29.75 


29.75 


29.75 


81 


do CI 
Nd^lcWd Sq 


17 


21 


03 


31 


10 


80 


60 


82 


29.75 


29.75 


29.75 


81 


18 


20 


86 


31 


04 


80 


81 


80 


29.80 


29.80 


29.80 


81 


FariafaJe.1 


Cl< 


19 


19 


27 


31 


29 


81 


82 


80 


29.80 


29.80 


29.75 


82 Ndd&Ed. 


R 


SO 


16 


51 


32 


53 


81 


82 


62 


29.75 


29.75 


29.80 


82 do 


I 


SI 


13 


56 


33 


21 


62 


61 


82 


29.80 


29.80 


29.80 


81 Easterly 




S2 


10 


29 


33 


30 


62 


82 


62 


29.75 


29.75 


29.70 


82 


do 




33 


6 


45 


32 


67 


62 


61 


81 


29.70 


29.70 


29.70 


83 


S.E. 


^ 


S4 


4 


S2 


32 


17 


82 


60 


81 


29.70 


29.70 


29.70 


82 


Sd.dcEd. 


S5 


3 


55 


31 


57 


61 


81 


60 


29.70 


29.70 


29.70 


81 


VariaUe. 




S« 


1 


39 


33 


34 


81 


83 


82 


29.75 


29.76 


29.75 


84 


Easterly 
Nd&Ed. 




S7 





55 


34 


28 


61 


82 


81 


29.75 


29.75 


29.75 


81 




S8 





S8 N. 


35 


41 


81 


62 


80 


29.75 


29.75 


29.75 


81 


do 




29 


1 


25 


36 


20 


78 


79 


79 


29.70 


29.70 


29.70 


81 


do 




30 


1 


41 


36 


32 


80 


80 


80 


29.70 


29.70 


29.70 


82 


Variable. 




May 1 


2 


40 


36 


39 


60 


81 


62 


29.75 


29.75 


29.75 


82 


do 


Var 


2 


4 


10 


38 


05 


80 


60 


80 


29.75 


29.75 


29.75 


82 


Nd&Ed 


Ck 


3 


6 


33 


41 


08 


60 


81 


60 


29.75 


29.76 


29.75 


80 


do 


F 


4 


8 


54 


44 


03 


60 


80 


60 


29.70 


29.70 


29.70 


79 


do 


( 


b 


10 


59 


46 


23 . 


60 


81 


60 


29.75 


29.75 


29.75 


80 


do 


< 


6 


13 


15 


48 


40 


79 


80 


79 


29.75 


29.75 


29.75 


79 


N.E. 


< 


7 


15 


43 


51 


18 


60 


80 


60 


29.80 


29.80 


29.80 


79 


Nd&Ed. 




8 


17 


58 


53 


47 


76 


80 


78 


29.85 


29.85 


29.85 


79 


N.E. 


B 


9 


20 


09 


56 


24 


78 


79 


78 


29.85 


29.85 


29.85 


78 


NdA;Kd 


F 


10 


22 


49 


59 


25 


78 


78 


77 


29.85 


29.85 


29.85 


76 


do 


CV 


11 


24 


50 


61 


35 


78 


78 


78 


29.80 


29.80 


29.80 


76 


Easterly 


I 


12 


26 


36 


62 


50 


77 


76 


79 


29.85 


29.85 


29.85 


76 


Sd.&Ed. 




13 


28 


25 


64 


06 


78 


77 


78 


29.90 


29.90 


29.90 


77 


SddtWd 




14 


30 


26 


65 


10 


75 


77 


76 


29.80 


29.80 


29.75 


74 


S.W. 




15 


32 


45 


66 


25 


73 


73 


73 


29.70 


29.70 


29.70 


70 


S.S.W. 


B 


16 


34 


15 


67 


20 


72 


65 


64 


30.00 


.30.10 


30.10 


67 


Variable. 




17 


34 


28 


68 


06 


64 


64 


66 


30.18 


30.10 


30.00 


68 


Nd&Wd CI 


18 


34 


46 


69 


30 


66 


66 


68 


29.90 


29.90 


29.90 


72 


NorthUy. J 
Westerly 


19 


35 


50 


69 


22 


72 


73 


74 


29.90 


29.90 


29.90 


76>69 


20 


38 


17 


69 


33 


73 


73 


70 


30.00 


30.10 


30.10 


68-78 


Variable. 




21 


39 


29 


69 


16 


68 


68 


69 


29.90 


29.85 


29.85 


61-76 






22 


41 


45 


69 


11 


56 561 




29.85 


29.85 


29.86 


48 






23 


BoetOD. 1 








1 




29.90 













i 



,» • 



CATALOGUE 



or 



VALUABLE WORKS, 



■MBBAOINO 



HISTORY, 

THEOLOGY, 

BIOGRAPHY, 



MATHEICATIOS, NATURAL HISTORY, 

MEDICINE, POETRY AND FICTIONi 
PHILOSOPHY, VOYAGES AND TRAVELS; 

&c. dec &c 



PRINTED AND PUBLISHED 



BT 



HARPER d& BROTHERS, 82 gLIFP-ST. 



NEW- 






'Notices of Harper^s Libraries of Standard Works. 

THE FAMILY LIBRARY. 

** The Family Library — ^A title whichf from the valuable and entenainmg matta 
the collection contairj, as well as from the careful style of its execution, it' well de 
serves. No family, indeed, in which there are chikuen to be brought up, ought U 
be without this Library, as it furnishes the readiest resources for that education whid 
ought to accompany or succeed that of the boarding-school or the academy, and ii 
intmitely more conducive than either to the cultivation of the intellect.'* — Monthly 
Review. 

" We have repeatedly borne testimony to the utility of this work. It is one of thi 
best that has ever been issued from the American press, and should be in Uie librar] 
of every fondly desirous of treasuring up useful knowledge." — BoUon Stateaemmu 

"The Family Library pteeents. in a compendious and convenient lorm, weD 
written histories of popular men, kingdoms, sciences, 4to., arranged and edited b] 
able writers, and drawn entirely from tne most correct and accredited authorities.''— 
CharUaUm GaxeUe. 

FAMILY CLASSICAL LIBRARY. 

" The Family CUusical Library is another of those cheap, useful, and e1e«ant woikj 
which we lately spoke of as forming an era in our publismng history.** — Spectaiar. 

" Hus work, puolished at a low price, is beautifully got up. Thous^ to profess U 
be eontent with translations of the Classics has been denounced as * the thhi Bisguisi 
of indolence,' there are thousands who have no leisure for studying the dead Ua 
guages, who would yet like to know what was thought and aaki by the sages anc 
poets of antiquity. To them this work will be a treasure." — Sunday 7Vnu». 

" We see no reason why this work should not find its way into the boudoir of the 
lady, as well as into the hbrary of the learned. It is chea^, portable, and altogethei 
a work which may safely be placed in the hands of persons of both sexes." — fv^M^ 
Free Preae. 

This work cannot foil to be acceptable to youth of both sexes, as wdl as to a laxge 
portion of the readiitf community, who have not had the benefit of a leanied edoca* 
tion."— &0nlf8iium'« Maganne, Dec 1829. 

BOY'S AND GIRL'S UBRARY. 

This course of publications will more especially embrace such works as are 
adapted jaot to the extremes of early childhood or of advanced youth, hut to that 
intermecOate space which lies between childhood and the opening of maturity, 
when the trifles of the nursery and the simple lessons of the school-room have 
ceased to exercise their beneficial influence, but before the taste for a higher order 
of mental pisasure has established a fixed ascendency in their stead. In the selec- 
tion of works intended for the rising generation in this plastic period of their exist-. 
ence, when, the elements of future character are receiving their moulding impress, 
the publishers pledge themselves that the utmost care and scrupulosity shall be ex- 
ercised. They are fixed in their determination that nothing of a questionable tend> 
ency on the score of sentiment shall find admission into pages consecrated to the holy 
purpose of instructing the thoughts, regulating the passions, and settling the princi- 
ples of the young. Several interesting numbers ol this Library are now before the 
public. 



^«i^^«^^«i»«^i^^>^«^»»«^«^'^>»» 



LIBRARY OF SELECT NOVELS. 

Fictitious composition is now admitted to form an extensive and important por- 
tion of literature. Well-wrought novels take their rank by the side of real narratives, 
and are appealed to as evidence in all qiiestions concerning man. In them the cus- 
toins of countries, the transitions and snades of character, and even the Twy pecu- 
liarities of costume and dialect are curiouslv preserved. 

This " library of Select Novels" will embrace none but such as have received the 
impress of general approbation, or have been written by authors of established char- 
acter; and the publishers hope to receive such encouragement from the public 
patronage as will enable them in the course of time to produce a series of works of 
uniform appearance, and including most of the really vaJuable novels and romances 
that have been or shall be issued trom the modem Engbsh'and American press. 

Sixteen works, by eminent authors, have already been published in this Library, 
which are sold separately or in complete sets.— For the titles see the Catalogue. 



HISTORICAL WORKS 



PUBU9HSD BT 

J. dB J. HARPER, No. 82 CLIFF-STREfiT, NBW-TORr. 



THlE fflSTORY OF THE DECLINE AND FALL OF THE 

ROMAN EMPIRE. By Edward Gibbon, Eaq. Complete in 4 vols. 8vo. 
With EngTBTinge. 

This Stereotvped Eaidon of Oibbon'e Rome is weU printed on a sood sized type, 
and contains the necessary Maps, and is, in all reroects, perfect. These facts are 
stated, becaase. most of the London editions new onered for sale in this country are 
without the necessary Majps. &c., and are pimted On a ijue so small that it is in- 
jurious to the eyes to read them. Yet, with all these disadvantages, they are sold at 
a higher price than t/ue American Edition. 



i>i»^»^^>*i^»»^»^««<^i>^^^> 



THE HISTORY OF MODERN EUROPE ; with a View of 

the Progress of Society, from the Rise of the Modem Kingdoms to the Peace 
of Paris, in 1763. By Willum Russbll, LL.D. : and a Continuation of the 
History to the Present Time, by William Jonbs, Esq. With Annotations 
by an American. In 3 vols. 8to. With Engravings. 



«»^^^^<^ « »^||»«»«»»»ir■^<»^^ 



THE HISTORY OF THE DISCOVERY AND SETTLE. 

MENT OF AMERICA. By William Robbbtsoiv, D.D. With an Acenopt 
of his Life and Writings. To which are added Questions for the Examination 
of Students. By John Fbost, A.M. Complete in 1 vol. 8v6. With a Por- 
trait and Engravings. 



«»»^»^»i^«^X>^^^ » #>^»»^^»^ 



THE HISTORY OF THE REIGN OF THE EMPEROR 

CHARLES v. With a View of the Progress of Society in Europe, from the 
Subversion of the Roman Empire to the Beginninar of the Sixteenth Century. 
By William Robbbtson, D.D. To which are added Questions for the Exam- 
ination of Students. By John Fbost, A.M. Cdmplete in 1 vol. 8vo. With 
Engravings. 



^<»^^»^»^i«^^^»<»»»i»»^»i^ 



THE HISTORY OF SCOTLAND during the Reigns of Queen 

Mary and of King James VI. till his Accession to the Crown of England. 
With a Review of the Scottish History previous to that Period ; and an Appen- 
dix containing Original Letters. To which is aiftxed 

AN HISTORICAI. DISQUISITION CONCERNING THE 

KNOWLEDGE THE ANCIENTS HAD OF INDIA ; and the Progress 
of Trade with that Country prior to the Discovery of the Passage to it by tlw 
Cape of Good Hope. With an Appendix containing Observations on the Civil 
Policy, the Laws ^ Jodicial Piooeedinffs, the Arts, the Sciences, and R«U- 
jpous Institutions of the Indians. By William RoBBBTsoNf D.D. Complete 
m 1 vol. 8vo. With Engravings. 
Robertson's works are also sold in Bate 



i^^^»N»»i»>»#i»»i»#^»>»V^ 



THE HISTORY OF THE AMERICAN THEATRE. By 

William Dvnlap, Vlee President of the National Academy of Design. In 1 
vd. 8vo. 



I»<«l«»»»» ^IK**')*!^!^^**^^ 



ANNALS OF TRYON COUNTY; or, the Borfer WaHaro of 
New-Yorl[« during the Revohition. By Wm. W. Cahpbbll. 8vo. 






t 






f**>^ 



■«*■ 



Historical Works Published by /. 4* J^- Harper. 



f 



^.HISTORY OF THE JEWS. From the Earliest Period to 
t£e Present Time. By the Rev. H. H. Milkan. In 3 vols. 18mo. MTah 
Maps and Engravings. 

Until the appearance of Professor Milman^s admirable work, there was no Historf 
of the Jews, aeserving of the name, except that of Josephus : and he lived at a period 
too remote, and too limited in its knowledge, to enable him to do patice to the sub- 
ject. The notices to be found in various Universal Histories are meager and un- 
satisfactory ; and a narrative at once Christian and liberal in its tone, spirited and 
elegant in its language, and adequately depicting the mannera, wars, religion, end 
pohcy of the most renu^kable of nations, was still wanting. The nature of the 
present work is strictly historical — not theological — yet it elucidates many obecuie 
passages in the Old Testament, employs with great skill the casual evidence of heathen 
writers, and throws new light on the mannera and customs of the Hebrews by fine- 
quent references to the pages of the oldest travellers. 



^^^^^pk^^^p^^^^^^^^^^^^^* 



LETTERS ON DEMONOLOGY AND WITCHCRAFT. 

By Sir Waltei Scott, Bart. 18mo. . With an Engraving. 

This is a very curious and interesting work, containing as it does the results of 
much thought and great research upon one of the most exciting topics of haxnan in- 
quiry. Most of Sir Walter Scott's unrivalled novels betray the prediloction for the 
supematumi with which his mind was tinned, and the extent of htt reading in works 
which treat of " the history of that dark chapter of human nature** to which this 
volume is devoted. In it he has laid open thie stores of his memory, and strikingly 
condensed and elucidated the subject ; m many cases explaining, by most inijpenicms 
theories, occurrences which seem to he beyond the boundaries of natural action. 

HISTORY OF THE BIBLE. By the Rev. G. R. Guig, 

M.A. In 2 vols. 18mo. With a Map of Palestine. 

These volumes do not, as fitnn their title one miffht imagine, contain merely an 
account of the origin and contents of the Sacred Volume : the dbject of the writer 
has extended for beyond this. He has produced, perhaps, the most elaborBte and able 
examination of the various ol;jections urged against the Scriptures that has ever been 
written ; and, at the same time, one of the clearest and most satisfactory expositions 
of the whole Bible, not only as the foundation of our faith, but also as a history. In 
the performance of his task, Mr. Gleig has exhibited equal piety and learning, and 
his work Is calculated to facilitate to a remarkable degree both the comprehension 
and enjsyment of the inspired writings. 



^^«^«^^^^»^^«N»^^»^^^« 



NARRATIVE OF DISCOVERY AND ADVENTURE IN 

THE POLAR SEAS AND REGIONS. With Illustrations of their CUmate, 
Geology, and Natural History, and an Account of the Wbale>Fisheiy. By 
Professora Lbslib and Jamkson, and Hugh Murrat, Esq. ISmo. With 
Maps and Engravings. 

1^0 person's education can be considered complete without a certain degree of at- 
tention to the most recent improvements and discoveries in every branch of science. 
In none have oreater advances been made, in the present century, than in geugraphy 
and the knovrledge of the earth which we inhabit : the Polar Seas and Ruions 
h^e been most fertile in results through the enterprise and perseverance of a Kose, 
a Franklm, and a Parry, and this work, in which their investigations are described, 
IS one of most interestmg and instructive character. 






l^^*^^^^^^^^^^^^f^^f^^f^k 



FULL ANNALS OF THE REVOLUTION IN FRANCE, 

1830. To which ii added a Particular Account of the Celebration of said 
Revolution in the City of New-Yoik, 6n the S6th November, 1880% By 
Mtrr Mosss. 12mo* 






"k 




NARRATIVE OF DISCOVERY AND ADVENTURE IN 

AFRICA. From the Earliest Ages to the Present Time. With Illustratioi* 
of the Geology, Minerslogy, and Zoology. By Professor Jahbson, ana 
Jajibs Wilson and Huoh Mubsay, Esqrs. 18mo. With a Map and En- 
gravings. 

In this volume is recorded every thing that is known of the interior of that danger- 
ous continent which has been for so many ages a tern meegnita^ and proved the grave 
of so many enterprising travellers, except what has been revealed to us by the recent 
investigations or John an4 Ricnard Lander. The plan of the work consists ul 
condensed abstracts of the narratives of all the miodem African travellers, in which 
every thins important or interesting is preserved, while the unessential details have 
been so abbreviated as to bring the substance of each account within convenient 
limits. 



^>^^»^«^»^^<»»^i#<^i^^^<#« 



HISTORY OF CfflVALRY AND THE CRUSADES. By 

G. P. R. Jambs, Esq. 18mo. With Engravings. 

No modem writer is, perhaps, so well qualified to write upon this subject as the 
author of " Richelieu," and of the " Life and Times of CharleinaKne ;'* unquestionably, 
fclnce the' death of Sir Walter Scott, the best informed hiiAoriaJ antiquary of the age. 
The present work oontainiL in a small compass, a clear and concise account of that 
celebrated institution whicn« in process of tmie, became the foundation of the modem 
European systems of government and jurispradence, with a vivid description^of those 
amazmg ebullitions of national enthusiasm which poured such immense multitudes 
of warlike pilgrims upon the plains of Asia, and proauced such extraordinary changes 
in the condition of mankinH The work is eminently curious, interesting, learned, 
and philoeophicaL 



<#»^»<»»»o»«i«»i^*»»i^«^^»^^ 



VIEW OF ANCIENT AND MODERN EGYPT. With an 
Outline of its Natural History. By the Rev. M. Rossbll, LL.D. 18mo. 
With a Map and Engravings. 

In this volume is contained a distinct and well arranged account of all that is 
known with certainty respecting the ancient history, as well as the present condition 
of that extraordinary country whose antiquity baffles, the research of the most per- 
severing explorers, and to which both Rome and Greece were indebted for at least 
the radiments of those arts and sciences which were brought in them to such per- 
fection. The stupendous remains of Egyptian architecture, vad the treasures of 
knowledge that still remain locked up in the &r<famed hieroglyphics, have long en- 
gaged the attention of the most accomplished scholars, ana every thing relating to 
mem and the land in which they exist is in the highest degree mteresting to the 
inquiring mind. 



i^»<^i^»<»N»«#M«»^»»<^^*>^ 



fflSTORY OF POLAND. From the Earliest Period to the 
Present Time. By Jambs Flbtchbb, Esq. With a Narrative of the Recent 
Events, obtained from a Polish Patriot Nobleman. 18mo. With a Portrait 
of Kosciusko. 

The recent unsuccessful effort of the gallant and unfortunate Poles to break their 
yoke of bondage has fixed the attention and awakened the sympathies of every lover 
of freedom snd every friend to humanity. The writer of this history has brought to 
his undertaking much learning, neat itxlustry and patience m research, and Che 
most unbiased candour. The vmume is full of interest and useful information, 
drawn from an immense variety of sources, many of which are not accessible to the 
mass of readers, particularly in America. 



^»»'^»*«^»*»«»^^»^i«^^>^»^^ 



LUTHER AND THE LUTHERAN REFORMATION. By 

the Rev. John Scott. ' In 2 vob. 18mo. With Portnits. 



II 



4 Historieal Works Published by J, ^ J. Harper, 

) FESTIVALS, GAMES, AND AMUSEMENTS. Ancient uid 
■ Modern. By Hoiatio Smith, Eaq. 18mo. With Additkns Bj Samusl 
WooDwoMTH, Esq., of New-Yoik. 

** Laws, institutions, empires pass away and are forgotten, bat tlie div e is kma of a 
people, being commoiily interwoven with some immutable element of th« general 
feeling, or perpetuated by circumstances of climate and locality, wUl freqaeotly 
sunrive when every other national peculiarity has worn itself oat and frUen into 
oblivion.** This extract shows the spirit in which this captivating Tolnme was 
designed, and its pretensions to utility. The information imbodied in its pages is 
curious and extensive, and i|ot the least attractive portion is the account of the 
amusements, dec. pecnliai to dilRnrent sections of the United States, added hy Mr. 
Woodworth. 



^«»^^i^»«^»«»^^^i»i»«#«0 



PALESTINE, OR THE HOLY LAND. From the Earliest 

Period to the Present Time. By the Rev. M. Russell, LL.D. ISmo. With 
a Map and Engravings, 

The eariy history of that most interesting; portion of the globe— the theatie of 
those wonderful events fiDra which our religion is derived— as well as its pveaent 
state, is described in this volume with the greatest accuracy. The places of many of 
the incidents recorded in the Bible are pointed out, and the changes that have oocuned 
in the lapse of ages are carefully delineated. The work may be read with advan- 
tage in connexioo with the Sacrea History which it confirms and illostrates. 



^«^^«i»^i^^>»»^^^^^«^«^^ 



SACRED HISTORY OF THE WORLD, as displayed in the 

Creation and subsequent Events to the Deloge. Attempted to be Philo- 
sophically considered) in a Series of Letters to a Son. Py SHAmoii Tubitbb, 
F.S.A. 18mo. 

To exhibit the Divine Mind in connezioD with the production and preaervation, and 
with the laws and agencies of visible nature, and to lead the inquirer to perceive 
the clear and universal distinction which prevails between the material ana imma- i 
terial substances in our world, both in their phenomena and their prindplea, is the ! 
main object of this admirable volume. In it religious and scientinc insknctiao are 
skilfiilivand strikingly blended, and facts and principles Are so made to ilhutrate each 
other tnat the mind and heart are equally improved by its perusal, and the cause of 
science is, as it were, identified with that of religion. The infonnation contained in 
it chiefly relates to Natural History, and it is eztremelv copious, accurate, and 
interesting, while the reflections are eminent for their depto, wisdom, and piety. 



^xi^'^^>^^«»«.»i^^««i^^«^i^ 



HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT of BRITISH 

INDIA; from the most Remote Period to the Present Time. Including a 
Narrative of the early Portuguese and English Voyages, the Revelations in the 
Mogul Empire, and the Origin, Proeress, and Establishment of the British 
Power; with Illustrations of the Zoology, Botany, Climate, Geology, and 
Mineralogy. Also Medical Observations, an Account of the Hindoo Astronomy, 
the Trigonometrical Surveys, and the Navigation of the Indian Seaa. By Hoor 
MutBAT, Esq., Jambs Wilson, Esq., R. K. Gbbvillb, LL.D., Whitblaw 
AiNSLiB, M.D., William Rhinoi, Esq., Prof. Jahbson, Prof. Wallace, and 
Capt. CLABEifCB Dalbymplb. In 3 vols. 18mo. With a Map and En- 
gravings. 

A history of India in a convenient fonn, and in an easy and ftmiliar style, has kng 
bsen considered a desideratuuL This work commences with the eariy annals of the 
Hindoos, traces the progress and decline of the Mohammedan power, and brings the 
history of the British oominion in India down to the time ofthe permanent estab- 
lishment of the India Company and the foundation of that stupendous empire. It is 
divided into departments comprising the history, Ikerature, ana, and manners of the 
Hindoos, and a description ofthe country, its climate, soil, diseases, productions, and 
natural features : these departments have been committed to distinct writers of emi- 
nence, and fully qualified to treat of them with distinguished ability, and the result 
has been the production of a body of accurate and complete information, such as 
is not to be found collected in any other work in the Engli^ language. 



1 



'Hr- 



Historieal Works Published by J. 4* "'* Harper, 5 

HISTORY OF mELAND. From the Anglo-Norman Invasion 
till the Union of the Countrj with Grett Britain. Bj W. C. Taylor, Esq.'f 
With Additions. By William SAiirsoN, Etq. In 8 volclSmo. With £n- ) 
gnnngt. ( 

Before its republicatioii, this work was sobmitted for examination to several gen- 
tlemen resident in New- York, natiTes, or the descendants .c€ natives, of the conntry 
whoee history it contains, and distingoished for their attachment to the unhappy land 
to which they trace their orij^ and for their talents and acquirements. Their 
opinion was unanimous, and highly &vourable, and each of them expressed in strong 
terms the pleasure it would afibrd him to see republished in the United States a 
work so fiur, so copious, and so accurate. The puokc at lar^ haa confirmed their 
sentence, and stamped this history with the seal of approbation. The Talue of the 
history as originally published has been greatly enhanced by the additions of William 
Sampson, Esq., wliose reputatioa it too w^ known in the coontry of his adoption to 
require eulogy. 



i^^»«*>^<*^»<»*»»^<^»»*«i^*» 



fflSTORICAL VIEW OF THE PROGRESS OF DISCOV- 
ERY ON THE MORE NORTHERN COASTS OF NORTH AMERICA. . 
From the Eariiest Period to the Present Time. By P. F. Tytlii, Esq. ) 
With Descriptive Sketches of the Natural History of the North American 
Regions. By Prof. Wilsov. To which is added an Appendix, containing 
Remarks on a late Memoir of Sebastian Cabot, with a Vindication «f Haklny t. 
18mo. With a Map and Engravings. 

Among the most remarkable occurrences of the nineteenth century are the varyous 
expeditions of discovery to the northern coakts of the western continent, so important, 
altnough not perfectly satisfactory in their results. In no other portion of the earth*s 
surfoce has tne navigator to contend with such formidable difficulties, and in none 
does he behold so peculiar an aspect of nature : it follows, therefore, of course, that 
expeditions to no other part of the world furnish to the nistorisn such ample and 
interesting materials. The present volume exhibits a foil and accurate view of aU 
that is important in modem knowled^ of the most remote territories of North 
America, and may be considered ss forming a sequel to the " Polar Seas and Regions,'* 
and as fomishing all that waa wanting to a complete account of the whole series of 
northern discoveries by land aad water. 



<^^i^>0 « ^0><0'i0' ^^J^^i^l^l^^^^ 



fflSTORY OF CHARLEMAGNE. To which Is prefixed an 
Introduction, coniprising the History of France firom the Eariiest Period 
to the BiiUi of Charlemagne. By 6. P. R. Jambs, Esq. 18mo, With a 
Portrait. 

The age of Charlemagne may be considered as the period to which the origin of 
most of the nations of Europe as they at present exist, can alooe be traced wim suf- 
ficient certainty ; beyond this epoch, the researches of the historian are often fated to 
end in disappomtment and obscurity. In tracing the fortunes of the several powers 
into which that continent is divided, from the earliest attainable facts to the present 
time, it is indispensable that the inquirer should possess a clear and accurate under- 
standing of the actual state as well of France aa of the surrounding countries, at the 
period when, by the successes snd achievements of that remarkable monarch, his I 
kingdom became the dominant power of the European continent Until the appear- 
ance of Mr. James's History, this clear and accurate understsnding was of etceecimgly 
difficult attainment ; the materials from which it was to be drawn were scattered 
through various historical works, and all the labour of arrangement, condensation, and 
comparison wss to be performed by the student himself. Such je no longer the case ; 
light has been shed upon the darkness of that remote ajge ; and the world of Science 
is indebted to Mr. James for the means of readily acqumng a complete and satisfactory 
knowledge in all its details, of the first rreat epoch in European History. In the 
numerous commendations of this work that nave appearea in the Reviews and 
periodicals both of England and Uie United States, the ni^hest terms of eulo8[y have 
been employed ; and all have noticed with strong expreasions of praise, the singular 
perspicuity of the style, and the remarkable absence of prolixity and confusion in the 
I progress of the narrative. 






1 



6 



HistMieal Works Published by J, S^ J. Harper. 



SKETCHES FROM VENETIAN fflSTORY. By the Eev 

E. Smbdlct, M.A. In 2 toIs. 18mo. With EngraTingt. 

Few have the knowledge, the time, or the means to explore for themselves thi 
treasures of the Italian chronicles. The author of this work hat laid open thee 
stores for the benefit of those to whom the language in which they are written rpoden 
them a sealed book— gleaning from them the most characteristic incidents, Mwwh'M 
stories, and anecdotes, whole, at the same timev he has sustained all the dignity^ 
historical research ; pasting lightljr over events of minor importance) and leservini 
himself for those momeiitous and interesting transactions which reqaire to be men 
fully displayed. The beauty of the style has been very generally noticed, and hai 
gained the applause of the most competent judges. 



^»»>i^l^^^i^^i»i»«»i»i^>»«»0 



BTOIAJV TRAITS ; BEING SKETCHES OF THE MAN- 

NERS, CUSTOMS, AND CHARACTER OF THE NORTH AMERICAN 
NATIVES. By B. B. Thatcbbe, Esq. In .2 vols. 18mo. With numeroos 
Engravings. 

The appearance, character, and habits of the North American Indians have long 
been a favourite and fertile theme for writers as well as readers, and accarate 
descriptions of them are equally instructive and agreeable. These form the sabject 
of the present volumes, and they are admitted to contain much correct and intaiest- 
ing infom^lion. A larger work, by the same author, entitled " Indian Biography," 
treats of m history of those remarkable members of the human &mily : £ne work 
now under consideration makes no pretensions to that character, but is aitiiely de- 
scriptive ; and it is entitled to high praise, not only as being the first attempt to 
renaer the subject attnctive to general readers, but also for the ahthty with which 
the object is accomplished. 



|»<»^»»«^S»i^»*»^«^^»^i^»i^l»« 



NUBIA AND ABYSSINIA. Comprehending their Civil History, 

Antiquities, Arts, Religion, Literature, and Natural History. Bj the Rev. M. 
RossBLL, LL.D. 18mo. With a Map and Engravings. 

There is no country in the world more interesting than that whidi was known to 
the ancients as " Ethiopia above Egypt," the Nubia and Abyssinia of the present day. 
It was universally regarded by tHe poets and philosophers of Greece as the cradle 
of those arts which at a later period covered the kingdom oi the Pharaohs with so 
many wonderful monuments, as also of those religious rites which, after being 
slightly modified by the priests of Thebes, were adopted by the ancestors of Homer 
and Virgil as the basis of their mythologv. A description of this remarkable tuition, 
therefore, by the well-known author of the " View oi Ancient and Modem Egypt," 
cannot be otherwise than instructive and highly interesting. 



i».^^«i»ii»«^^»*»o^^^>^<^^«^ 



TALES FROM AMERICAN HISTORY. By^ the Author of 

*< American Popular Lessons.*' In 3 vols. 18mo. With Eogiwrings. 

The writer of these Tales has had in view two chief poposfs,— the one to con- 
vey to the juvenile reader a general idea of the incidents connected with the discoveiy 
and subsequent histonr of the American continent ; the other to excite an interest 
in the sabject which shall create a desire for more minute and extensive information. 
These purposes have been efiiscted with much success, and the volumes will be 
found fflttmctive and entertaining. In the majority sf instances, ihe Tales have 
be«i selected with reference to the illustration of sOBoe moral principle ; and the 
frequent opportuniti^ afforded for the introduction of reflections leading to the cul- 
bvaUon of piety and retinon have been ably and zealously improved, jw a school- 
bo^this collection of Historical Tales is calculated to be eminentlv serviceable: 
and thers can be no doubt that their introduction into seminaries will be attended 
with both pleasure and advantage to the scholars. 



^^<»»<^^>^»>^^^i^^ »« ^^yi 



HISTORY OF THE REFORMED RELIGION l^ FRANCE, 

By the Rev. E. Smbdlkt, M.A. In 8 vols. 18mo. With Portraits. 



BIOGRAPHICAL WORKS 



LETTERS AND JOURNALS OF LORD BYRON; with 

Noticw of his Life. By Thokas Moobk, Esq. In % Tok. 8to. With t Por^ 
tnit. 

By uiibi&Md criticfl Byron's Lttun have been'proixninced egaal, if not siiperior. in 
point of Tigoar, interest, variety, and Uveliness, to any thieU have yet adorned this 
DTanch of our literAtdre. The present edition is printed on large tjrpe and good 
paper, and in a convenient form. T 



«»Oi#»»»^«^»^i#«^i»i*«^*« ^lO 



THE LIFE OF NELSON. By Robert Southkt, LL.D. 

18mo. With a Portrait. ' 

This Biography has been pronounced one of the Laureate's most snccessfhl effort* : 
the enthusiastic and romantic character of Nelson ftimished a congenial subject, and 
he has treated it with consummate ability. The errors of the fortunate ana j^lant 
admiral are CEdrly and fearlessly exposed ; while the nobler elements of his nund, his 
heroic courage, bis perseverance, and his insatiable appetite for glory, as well as the 
great actions in which they are displayed, are desciiMd and iUustrated with a happy 
choice of language and m9st felicitous effect. 



i^*»^^^^^<'^<»i^*^>^»^Xi 



LIFE OF MARY QUEEN OF SCOTS. By Hen^ Glass- 

poiD Bell, Esq. In 2 vols. 18mo.> With a Portrait. 

It is now generally admitted that great injustice' has been done to the character of 
Mary, and that there is good reason to believe her, to say the least, ^^uiltless of the 
darker offences charsed against her. Mr. Bell baa undertaken her vindication, and. 
having investigated the fiicts with uncommon mdustry and patience, he has succeeded 
in establishing a conviction of her entire innocence. The sympathy excited by the 
story of her beau^ and her misfortunes is now heightened by the assurance of her 
WTonss. Mr. Bellas is considered the most affecting, as well as the most impartial 
hie of Mary that has been written. 



^»M»<»^^^<«»»i^»*ii»i^»^ 



MEMOIRS OF THE EMPRESS JOSEPHINE. By John 

S. Mbmes, LL.D. 18mo. With PortraiU. 

Amid the turmoils, the vast achievements, the ambitious aspirings, and the com- 
plicated intrigues which mark the era of Napoleon's greatness, it is teneshing to pursue 
the elegant and gentle course of Josephine, whose aflfection for the conqueror and 
native goodness of heart were sp often made the instruments of mercy, and whose 
persuasive voice was ever ready to interpose between his wratti and its trembling 
object. Placid in situations peculiarly tryinjg. Josephine preserved • her character 
unsullied, and the story of her life abounds with occasions for the respect and admi- 
ration of the readec The author has performed his task with great ability, and the 
public is indebted^* Ite for one of the most delightful btogiaphies. 

MEMOIRS 'OP CELEBRATED FEMALE SOVEREIGNS. 

By Mrs. Jameson. In k vols. 18mo. 

The intention of this work is to illustrate the influence which a female government 
has had generally on men and nations, and that which the possession oTpower has 
had individually on the female charactit. The didactic form of history or liiognphy 
has not alwa3rs been adheroA to ; incidents and charactexa are treated iith«r m a ' 
moral than in a political or kiitoncal point of view ; and public afbirs and national 
e>ents a^ not dwelt upon, exodiit as comiected with the destinr. or emanating ftom 
the passionp-or prejudices of the individual or sovereign. Tbn LifM form an wdca^ 
rable illustration ^ the female character, and the lesaooa they fhmiah abound wifli 
instruction, while the incidents recorded ire interettnig^ not only in themsAves, but 
as authentic details of remarkable personages whom UicU—U nces or personal quali- 
ties have invested with claims to our attention. 



0t0tm*»m0>^<m^^^>^<^^<0>0> 



RECORDS OF MT UFE. By the late Jorm Taylob, Esq. 
Author of ** Monsieur Tonson.** Complete In one votoine, 8vo. 



8 Biographical Works Published hy J. 4* ^' Harper. 



THE LIFE OF NAPOLEON BONAPARTE. By J. a. 

LocKHAiT, Eiq. with Portraits. In 2 vols. ISmo. 

This celebrated work contains an epitome of all that has been jrwmd to be tme oon- 
ceming the character and actions of tne most extraordinary man of the last thooauid 
years. The English language possesses no other aufheotic epitooie of his hialary ; 
and, notwithstanding the smallness of the limits within which it is co miness ad, as 
narrative throughout is clear, distinct, and copious. The life of Napoleon, doobiy in- 
teresting when relieved of the tediousiiess of useless detail, has never been bKter told 
The work is written with commendable impartiality, and the author has been care- 
All to interweave wiUi his narrative all the new illustrations and anecdotes fomished 
by Bourriepne, and other French writers, whose memoirs have appeezed since the 
publication of the great work of Sir Walter Scott, from which a lane portion of hii 
materials was derived. As an evidence of the amaiing popularity of tms History, il 
is slated that more than 27000 copies of it have been oiqKMed of in Oieat BntaiB 



^«*»^^^»<^^»^^^>^^«^^i^ 



THE LIFE OF FREDERIC THE SECOND, King of 

Pmsna. By Loin Dovbb. In 2 vols. 18mo. With a PortraiL 

Frederick II. lived in an age among the most remarkable in the annals o€ the 
world. He was one of those men who constitute an epoch ; who, by their paiamoimt 
influence upon the events of a particular period, impress it, in a degree, with chsncter- 
istics resulnng from their own peculiar sentiments, habits, and proceeding ; who may 
be considered monuments on tne road of ages to aesi^^nate certain divisions of time. 
But, apart from the character of Frederic, the great mcidents in the midst of which 
he lived uid moved; and in which he was a prominent acton render this period of 
European history one o( the most interesting and important i and it has been dbly 
delineated by the modem liistorian of the Pmssian monarch. Lord Dover has loos 
been &vourably known as the Hon. Mr. Ellis, tnd his Life of Frederic has much 
enhanced his reputation. It is honourable to him, considering the ineligioiis charactei 
of Frederic, that he has nowhere rendered vice attractive, and that his 
studiously guarded from, the slightest contamination of infidelity. 



THE LIFE AND ACTIONS OF ALEXANDER THE 

GREAT. By Rev. J. Williams. With a Map. 18mo. 

This volume fills a blank in the historical library, and furnishes an excellent manwi 
for the student It is not confined to the mere exploits and adventures of the Mace- 
donian hero, although they constitute the leading topic, but contains a masterly view 
of the times in which he lived, and of the manners, arts, and sciences of the cTreeks, 
Persians, Egyptians, Arabs, and Indians, and other nations whom he visited or con- 
quered. The story is well and elegantly told, and conveys a more distinct and 
accurate idea of the ancient Napoleon than is to be found in any other history. In the 
perusal, the curiosity of the reader is gratified as well as stimulated, and his nrind is 
moved to profitable reflection. 



i^'^i»'^^'^^^^XXi^>^rf>^>^ 



LIFE AND TIMES OF GEORGE THE FOURTH. With 

Anecdotes of Distinguished Persons of the last Fifty Years. By Rev. Gsoiea 
Croly. 18mo. 

The regency and reign of this monarch occupied one of the most eventful and in- 
teresting periods of English history, not only from the magnitude and importance of 
their political occurrences, but also from the vast im{«ovements in 8ci«ice and the 
arts by which they were distinguished, and the number of eminont individuala who 
flourished at this epoch. The character of George himself was not the least re- 
markable among those of the principal personages of the time, and it has been 
handled by Mr. Croly with a just and fearless, but not uncharitable spirit. His per 
captions are close, keen, and accurate, and his language singularly terM and eneifetic. 
Hu work will be of the highest value to the future historian. 



- - ~^r-~-c-r-^€- \ f^f\f \ jj t 



MEMOIRS OF THE DUCHESS D'ABRANTES (Madame 
Junot). In on^ volume, 8vo. With a Portnut*. ' 



Biographical Works Published by J. ^ J, Harper. 9 

LIFE OF LORD BYRON. By J. Galt, Esq. 18mo. (40 cente.) 

The splendour of Lord B vron's fame, and the interest attendant upon the storv of 
his eventful life and early death, have combined to render his biography a work of 
more than usual attraction. Mr. Gait enjoyed the advantages consequent upon a 
long and intimate acquaintance with the noble poet, and has given a striking and 
satisiaciory description of his mind and character. One of the greatest menu of the 
work is its strict uipaitiality : the writer is evidently free from prejudice either fa- 
vourable or adverse to his subject, and tells what he knows or believes to bo the truth, 
without any bias from envy, iU-will, or affectioa. 



^xi^i»w<» ^i^»ii^^<M»»^i<« 



THE LIFE OF SIR ISAAC NEWTON. By Sir David 
Brbwstbb, K.B., LL.D., F.R.S. 18mo. With Engravingt. 

This is the only extended Life of the greatest of English phihisophers ever given 
to the public. In attempting to supply a vacancy in phuosopnic and scientific htera- 
ture. Sir David Brewster, hunself one of the most profound and eminent mmhu of the 
age, has not only sought out from resources hitherto unknown and inaccessible to 
previous writers every fresh and novel particular of Newton's life, but has given tlie 
most lucid explanations of his great dispoveries, and the steptf by which tney were 
accomplished ; and has been remarkably successful in rendenng these inteliigible to 
all classes of readers. 



^X«^^»^^^>»i^^^»»^>^«»i^ 



THE LIVES OF THE MOST EMINENT BRITISH PAIN- 

TERS AND SCULPTORS. By Allan Cunninohah. In 6 vols. 18mo. 
With Portraits. 

The author has collected, in these small voluxnes, a history of art in England, and 
the lives, characters, and works of its moot esiinent professors, — the materials of 
which were previously scattered through many volumes, inaccessibte and uninviting 
to the mass of readers. The critical (Xiservations profusely scattered through these 
biographies will render them useful to the student, while the personal anecdotes 
with which they abound make them equally alluring to the ordinary reader. The 
labours ahd struggles of genius, the success of perseverance, and the inutility of 
talent unallied to prudence, as exemplified in theee narratives, afford a useful mural 
lesson, while the inddenta which illustrate them become the source of pleasure and 
entertainment. 



^>^>^0>:^>0k0>0¥^»^>^ > ^^ft0^Hm 



THE LIVES OF CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. By 

Jambs Augostus St. John. In 3 vols. 18mo. 

Every man whose mind can sympathlxe with human nature under all its various 
aspects, and can detect passions, weaknesses, and virtues like his own through the 
endless disguises effected by strange religions, oolicies, manners, or' climates, must 
peruse the relations of veracious travellers witn satis&ction and advantage. The 
author of these volumes has with great industry and judgment compiled a series of 
highlv interesting narratives, containing the most striking incidents in the lives and 
wanderings of all the celebrated travellers that have fiounahed within the last eight 
centuries, taking them up in their regular order of succession, presenting only tlie 
attractive portions, and omitting all useless and uxmecessary details. Tne reader 
will find in these volumes the substance of many ponderous tomes, most of which 
are rare, and only to be found in the extensive European libraries. 



^<»s^»^»»i>#«^^*»»«»i^^«»«^ 



A MEMOIR OF THE LIFE OF WILLIAM LIVINGSTON ; 

Member of Congress in 1774| 1775, and 1776; Delegate to the Federal Con- 
vention in 1787, and Governor of the State of New-Jersey from 1776 to 1790. 
With Extracts from his Cortespondence, and Notices of Various Members 
of his Family. By ^beodobb Sbdowick, Jan. 8to. With a Portrait. 

This work embraces a clear and interesting acoDunt of the life and character of an 
eminent and excellent man, distinguished for lenxiiqg and talents, and the most ex- 
emplary and patriotic devotion to ttie libeitias and hxlepeiidence of his country. It 
is written in an unpretending maaner» and with a commmdahle freedom from the ain 
of exag^feration* which is so apt to beast I)iafn4>her8^ and is highly valuable as an 
acquisition to our revolutionary anntlt. > 

__j 



I 



10 Biographical Works Published by J, Sf /. Harper, 



^^»i^^»^«^^^^»^^^>^»^^»^^»i^^»^»^^^^<^^*^^»^^»^^»^^»^^>^^N^^^^N#<^N^^»^^<^^^^^<< 



LIFE OF MOHAMMED ; Founder of the Religion of Islam 
And of the Empire of the Sancens. Bj Rev. Gboege Busa, A.M. WUh ai 
Engraving. ISino. 

The obj ects of the w riter in the prepantioD of thia Tolmne have been condteaatioB 
clearness, and accuracy. It was written expressly for the publishers by an Americai 
author, and, in addition to the numerous snd highly flattering commendationa best owe< 
upon it by the press, it has received the testimonial of republication in Enyiand. Ii 
one respect, the plan adopted by the author presents an improrement upon nrecedin( 
memoirs of the great impostor, m the careful collocation of the chapters of toe Korai 
with the events of the narrative, — a method by which the history is illtifltFated in i 
remarkable degree. The appendix, containing a series of prophetic inTeatigatioos 
is peculiarly curiooa, leamedf, and valuable. 



i^^^<^i^^^^^>»i»i»^<»»^» 



THE LIFE OF OLIVER CROMWELL. By Rev. M. Ru» 

SILL, LL.D. In 8 vols. 18mq. With a Portrait. 

These rolumes contain a popular History of one who, it is allowed, was, in mso] 
respects, the most extraordinary man that England has ever produced. It hss beei 
the study of the author, while he availed himself of the labouia of all of his prede 
cessors, to give an trnftuwed view of CromwelPs conduct : in his early life ; at hia firsi 
entrance upon public business; in his achievements as a soldier; in hia rise tc 
political power ; and, finally, in his government of those kingdoms which he waa the 
first to conquer. The reverend gentleman is certainly entitled to tho most nnqoali- 
fled praise for his exertions, and for the new, curious, and important infonnatioi] 
which he has collected and arranged ; and those who pemae his wock will be re- 
warded by much valuable information. 



^^^^«^»»i»«^0^«*>^»^^^^ 



INDIAN BIOGRAPHY: or, an Historical Account of . those 
Individuals who have been distinguished among the North American Natives 
aa Orators, Warriors, Statesmen, and other Remarkable Characters. By B. B. 
THATCHta, Esq. In % vols. ISmo. With a Portrait. 

The extensive popularity of these Biographies is one of the strongest evidences of 
their merit : within a rery few months after the publication a large edition vras dis- 
posed of, and the work was at once established as a standard. Until ita appeaianci* 
there was no authentic or satisfactory account of tho Indians : notices of a few <A 
the most distinguished among them in earlier times were to be found scattered throash 
the paffes of various historical works, but the number was very limited, and it rai^t 
be said that all knowledge of their true charactei, and of the traits for which they were 
remarkable, was locked up in manuscripts or in obsolete publicationa. The writer 
of these volumes has, witn great industry and perseverance, explored those almoit 
unknown stores of information, and produced a work of the highest character for 
candour, extent, and accuracy. It has been truly said, that until Mr. Thatcher took 
upon himself the office of their historian, full justice had never been done to the 
coaracters and actions of the aborigines. 



»^<»^»iO^^»««l»M»»X»<»^^«#> 



LIVES OF THE APOSTLES and EARLY MARTYRS of the 

CHURCH. By the Authorof** The Trial of Skill." l8mo. JuvenUe. 

The style is beautifully simple, and the narrative is interspersed with cominents 
and reflections remarkable for their devout spirit, and for the clearness with ^ich 
thev elucidate whatever might appear to the mind either contradictory or unintelli* 
gible. It is impossible for an/ child to read these eflfecting histories without becoining 
mterested ; and the interest is so directed and improved as to implant and foster the 
purest principles of religion and morality. The most esteemed religious publications 
throughout the Union have joined in cordial expressions of praise to this work. 



^>o^»^>^^>»^i»«»»»»i»^ 



THE LIFE AND REMAINS OF EDWARD DANIEL 

CLARKE ; Professor of Mineralogy in the University of Cambridge. By 
Ret. WiLLUH Ottie, A. M. Complete in one voiume, 8vo. 



Biographical Works Published by J. 4* J' Harper. II 
THE LIFE OF WICLIF. By Charles Webb Le Bas, A. M. 

18mo. With a Portrait. 

The object of the author has been to prodace, within a reasonable compass, the 
substance of the information which has been preserred to us relative to this rerj ex- 
traordinary man, — a man whose strength of character made an impression on the 
mind of his country which has never been eflhced. The volume embraces, it is 
believed, all the important information contained m the works of Vaughan, Fox, 
Lewis, James, and other writers on the subject, and is certainly among the first 
specimens of beautiful composition in the English language. 



■^^■^^N^l^^^^^^^l^^i^ii^^)^ 



LUTHER AND THE LUTHERAN REFORMATION. By 

John Scott, A. M. In 2 vols. 18mo. With Portraits. 

This work is designed to present, in a more popular and convenient form, the sub- 
stance of tho information collected by Milner and others relative to the most remark- 
able period, and the most important event, which has occurred in the history of the 
church since the apostles' days. To exhibit an account of ** the blessed Reforma- 
tion" which may he deemed just and adequate, which may show what the Reformers 
really contended for, and in what spirit and for what reasons they contended for it, 
and which, at the same time, may prove attractive to the public, must be judged an 
object highly seasonable and of great consequence. Such a work Mr. Scott has 
supplied. 



«»»^»>^i<»^^^^»^»[^ ^^X"!** 



THE LIFE OF ARCHBISHOP ORANMER- By Charles 

Webb Le Bas, A. M. In 8 vols. I8mo. With a Portrait. 

Mr. Le ^Bas has collected into a compendious and interestmg narrative the sub- 
stance of more voluminous compilations ; and has presented to the public a work, ele- 
gantly written, which will enable them duly to estmiate thdr obligations to the great 
master-builder of the Protestant Church of England. 



i»»^^»«»^i^^«*»^^^^»»*»» 



LIVES AND VOYAGES OF DRAKE, CAVENDISH, AND 

DAM PIER ; including an Introductory View of the earlier Discoveries in the 
South Sea, and the History of the Bucaniers. 18mo. With Portraits. 

The relation of the voyages, discoveries, and adventures of early and celebrated 
English navigators is, in so far, a history of the rise of her naval power. In this 
volume are contained the lives of three of the most eminent ; and, from the very 
nature of the subject, it presents much curious and valuable information, gleaned 
from many sources, and m every instance verified by scrupulous examination and 
reference to original documents. Early Spanish Discovery in the South Seas, and 
the first circumnavigation of the globe hj Magellan, form a subordinate bat appro* 
priate branch of the work ; and the subject is completed by the History of the 
Bucaniers. — those dariiuf rovers whose wild adventures aflbrd so much to charm 
the youthiul mind, and form one of the most interesting chapters in the annals of 
maritime enterprise and adventure. 



«»»>^^^i»^«»i^»i*»^^«^»>»» 



SKETCHES OF THE LIVES OF DISTINGUISHED FE- 
MALES. Written for Girls, with m view to thejr Mental and Moral Improve- 
ment. By an American Lady. 18mo. With a Portrait, dbc. 

As example acts more forcibly upon female youth than on the other sex, it is pecu- 
liarly important that the biographv which is placed In the hands of young femalee 
should be either carefully selectea, so as to give them no examples but those that are 
unexceptionable, or else that it should be accompanied by such remarks as will 
enable them to discriminate between the excellences to be imitated and the eccen- 
tricities to be avoided. With such views these sketches have been prepared. They 
will be found peculiarly instructive, and are written in a s^le which cannot &il to in- 
terest The volume is embellished with a portrait of Mia. Judaon, dec, and em- 
braces biogmphical sketches of several of the most distinguished females of oat own 
country. 



1 



13 Biographical Works Published by J, ^ J. Harper. 

THE LIFE OF JOHN JAY : with Selections from his Cor- 
respondence and Miscellaneout Papen. Bj his Son Willtam Jat. In 2 toU, 
8vo. With a Portrait. 

It would be doing injustice to the American public to fappoae that they do not take 
an interest in knowing the characters and actions of those to whom they are in- 
debt^ for the liberty and prosperity they now enjoy. Mr. Jay, it will be remembered, 
stood high among tnoee who devoted tnemselves to the service of their coantrr, and 
acquired a title to its gratitude. The present work, casting much new and Taluablc 
light on our early history, and being, in all respects, worthy of its great subject, 
cannot, therefore, fail to prove highly interesting and valuable ; and such, in fact, il 
has been pronounced by aH who have perased it. 



^>» <0»^l0'^ U ^ « ^t0>^ ^»«^^^<^ 



LIFE OF THE REV. ROBERT HALL. By Oi.imthu8 

Gebgory, LL.D. dec Syo. With a PortraiL (Embraced in the third Tolumi 
of Hall's complete works.) 

Dr. Greffory has traced Mr. Hall from childhood to maturity, from matnritj to hii 
death, and, tmoughout, has presented a plaii^, simple, accurate, and full account 
of him. He has also traced him in his social and moral lelations, and has showed 
how his fine talents and acquirements became subordinated to the power of DiTJne 
( grace, and devoted to the promotion of the glory of God and the happiness of man. 



i»i^^«i^^>^'^«»^«^ii»«»i»i»<^^ 



BiriGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF WILLIAM WIRT, ESQ. 

With a Portrait. 12mo. (Prefixed to " The Letters of the British Spy.") 

Of such men as Mr. Wirt our countirmen cannot know too much. He is one 
of the great and good men who hve for tneir country. 



^^i^»<«^»*«^»*»<»»>^>»>^*»^X« 



LIFE AND WRITINGS OF THE LATE ROBERT C. 

SANDS, Esq. In 2 voU. Svo. With a Portrait. 



^>»^i^»^^«»>»«^ii»«^»»»«^»>»« 



THE LIVES AND EXPLOITS OF BANDITTI AND RGB- 

B^RS in aU Parte of the World. By C. Macfaelanb, Esq. In % toIs. 
12mo. 



i^^^>^l^^^»^^^^«^i^^^X» 



MY IMPRISONMENTS: MEMOIRS OF SILVIO PEL- 

LICO DA SALUZZO. Translated from the Italian. By Thomas Roscob. 



12mo. 



i^^^«*«<^>^^»^»^^«^»i<»^^»» 



THE LIFE AND DEATH OF LORD EDWARD FTTZ- 

GERALD. By Thomas MooKB. In 2 vols. 12mo. With a Portrait. 



i»»» ^«»ii^^i^»» ^^iio^^y^^x* 



WONDERFUL CHARACTERS. Comprising Memoirs and 

Anecdotes of the most Remarkable Persons of 'every Age and Pfatioii. Col- 
lected from the most Authentic Sources. In 2 vols. 8yo. (In IVsbs.) 



^i#»»^i<>»i^i^i^>^<»M^I»*>i*«> 



ECCENTRICITIES AND SKETCHES OF COL. DAVID 

CROCKETT OF WEST TENNESSEE. 12mo. 



»^^^»i»'^^«»^>»^»^^^«« 



0:^ Well-written sketches of the Lires of Gibbon, Robertson, 
Brown, Wesley, President Davies, Dr. Good, Capt MorrvU Ac, 

are prefixed to their respective works. 



■^ 



VOYAGES, TRAVELS, &c. 



A NARRATIVE OF FOUR VOYAGES, TO THE SOUTH 
SEA, NORTH AND SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN, CHINESE SEA, 
ETHIOPIC AND SOUTHERN ATLANTIC OCEAN, INDIAN OCEAN, 
AND ANTARCTIC OCEAN. From the year 1822 io 1831. Compriaing 
Critical Sorreys of Coasts and Islands, with Sailing Directions. And an ac- 
count of some new and valuable discoveries, including the Massacre Islands, 
where thirteen of the Author's Crew were massacred and eaten by Cannibals. 
To which is prefixed, a Brief Sketch of the Author's early Life. By Capt. 
Bkhjamin Morkell, Jun. 8vo. With a Portrait. 

" We are bold in saying that everybody will want to read this book, and our com- 
munity will not be slow in ranking the author as the American Cook or Parry." — 
N, Y. Weekly Meseenger. 

** n does not often fall to our lot to be able to conmiend a book of this kind with as 

much confidence as we can Morrell's * Four Voyages.' It may go in company 

with Stuart's Voyages, and Tyerman and Bennett's JoumaL" — vfmetian Advocate 
and Journal. 

" This work is among the first, if not the first, of the respectable contributions | 
of American navigators to the general stock of knowled^ relative to the condition 
of man. Its author has traversea almost every sea, and visited everjr important place, 
in the southern hemisphere ; and, with an eye ever watchful for interaeting facts, 
and a happv talent in recording them, he has succeeded in producing a most in- 
stnictivp volume. . . . We have no doubt that it will find its way into every library in 
our country, and secure a perusal from many a * fireside traveller* who desires ah 
acquaintance with the world without venturing the perils of the deep." — The 
Preabyterian. 



i^^^»^i^^i^*»» » ^i^»<^»»^< 



NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO THE ETHIOPIC AND 
SOUTH ATLANTIC OCEAN, INDIAN OCEAN, CHINESE SEA, 
NORTH AND SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN, in the Years 1829, 1830, and 
1831. By Abby Jane Morbcll, who accompanied her Husband, CapU Benja- 
min Morrell, Jun., of the Schooner Antarctic 12mo. Portrait. 

The scenes and adventures of which Mrs. Morrell was a witness were highly m- 
teresting in their nature, and it is believed that an account of them, diverted of 
nautical technicalities and descriptions purely maritime, will be read with pleasure, 
especially by readers of her own sex and country. 



«»»»>i»>^i^O^»^^K^»«»»»»i«0 



THE TRAVELS AND RESEARCHES OF ALEXANDER 

VON HUMBOLDT ; bein^ a condensed Narrative of his Journeys in the 
Equinoctial Regions of Amenca, and in Asiatic Russia : together with Analyses 
of his noore important Investigations. By W. MAcaiixiTBiT, A.M. 18mo. 
With Engravings. 

The celebrity enjoyed fay Baron Humboldt, earned by a life of laboricos investigation 
and perilous enterprise, and by the most extensive contributions to science, renders 
his name familiar to ever^ person whoee attention has been drawn to statistics or 
natural philosophy ; and his works are ranked ainooff the very first ibr the splendid 
pictures of scenery which they contain, the diveraifiea information which they aiftnd 
respecting objects of universal interest, and the graceful attractions with which he 
has invested the majesty of science. The present volume contains an abridged ac- 
count of all the travels and reeearches of this eminent observer of nature, in which 
nothing is omitted that can be either interesting or nsefol to the g[eDefal reader, while 
the several narratives are suffidently condensed to bring them within the compass Jf 
a convenient volume. 



^»^^»^»^^<»^^^»«»i»^* 



NARRATIVE OF DISCOVERY AND ADVENTURE IN 

AFRICA, from the earilest Period to thei^rssent Tims. By Hush Mobiat,* 
Esq. l8mo. With Engravings. 



I 






14 Voyages^ Travtls^ 6fc. Published hy J. dp J. Harper. 
A DESCRIPTION OF PITCAIRN'S ISLAND AND ITS 

INHABITANTS. With an Authentic Account of the MatinT of the Ship 
Bounty, and of the subsequent Fortunes of the Mutineers. Bj John Babboiv, 
Esq. 18mo. With Engravings. 

The author of this volume has brought into one connected view what had here- 
tofore appeand only in detached fragments, and some of these eren not general]) 
accessible. The story is replete with interest We are taught by the Book of Sacred 
History that the disobedience of our first oarents entailed upon our globe a ainlu] 
and suffering race ; in our own time there i&s sprung up from the most absLudoned 
of this depraved fiunily— from pirates, mutineers, and murderers — a little aocietj 
which, unoer the precepts of that Sacred Volume, is characterixed by religion, wo- 
rality, and innocence. The discovery of this happ^r people, as unexpected as it vrsi 
accidental, and every thing relating to their condition and history, partake so mudi 
of the romantic as to render the story not ill-adapted for an epic poem. 



^«<^>o<»» «^i<'^>»^i^^«^* 



I 



JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION TO EXPLORE THE 
COURSE AND TERMINATION OF THE NIGER. With a Narrative 
of a Voyage down that River to its Termination. By Ricbabd and Jowi 
LiNDEE. In 8 vols. 18mo. With Portraits, Maps, &c. 

With encouragement and assistance of a very hmited description these adventuroai 
oung men embarked in an enterprise which in every previous mstance had terminated 
atally ; and all who knew the nature of the climate, and the grievous hardships thef 
must encounter, predicted that the only intelligence ever received of them would be 
some obscure rumour of their destructicm. The narrative shows how often these 
predictions were on thu point of being verified They were assailed by aiekneas, 
miprisoned in filthy huts, sold as slaves, plundered, abused, and nearly sacrificed to 
the cupidity and revenge of the ferocious savagea. In spite of all these obataclea, by 
means of patience, perseverance, enthusiasm, and courage, they finallj triu mph ed 
over every difllculty and completely sained the object of their mission, tnoa e^cting 
the most unportant and i^parently the most hopeless geographical diacoveiy of the 
age. 



i»i^^i^i»i^*>i^^^^»»<»»»^^ 



NARRATIVE OF DISCOVERY AND ADVENTURE IN 

THE POLAR SEAS AND REGIONS. By Hooh Muerat, Eaq. ISmo. 
Engravings. 



»»^<ii^i» M «^^^i^«»»^^^i» 



A NARRATIVE OF THE EARLY PORTUGUESE AND 

ENGLISH VOYAGES TO INDIA, and an Account of the Navigation of 
the Indian Seas. Bv Huoh Mueeay, Esq. and Captain Clabbncb Dauith- 
PLR. [Nos. 47, 48, & 49 of the Family Library.] 18mo. Engravinga. 



<^^<»»>^^^»»^»>^^«^^«^«^^ 



LIVES AND VOYAGES OF DRAKE, CAVENDISH, AND 
DAM PIER ; including an Introductory View of the earlier Discoveriea in tlie 
South Sea, and the History of the Bucaniers. ISmo. With Poztraita. 



i»v»^^^i^ ^o^» ^1^1^^ 1^^ 



MEW OF THE PROGRESS OF DISCOVERY ON THE 
MORE NORTHERN COASTS OF AMERICA, from tha eariiest Period 
to the Present Time. Including the early Voyaffes of Cabot, the French, dtc^ 
and the Travels of Heame, Mackenzie, Franklin, and others. By PArmioB 
Feasbr Tttlee, Esq. 18mo. With Engravings. 



i»<^^^^»*^»<i^«^^»»>^^«»i^ 



NARRATIVE OF VOYAGES UNDERTAKEN TO EX- 
PLORE THE SHORES OF AFRICA, ARABIA, AND MADAGASCAR, 
br conmnnd of the Lords Comniissioners of the Admiralty. By Cant. W. F. 
W. OwEir. In 3 vols. ISmo. 



Voyages f Travels^ S^c. Published by J. Sf J. Harper, 15 

POLYNESIAN RESEARCHES during a Residence of nearly 
Eight Yean in the Society and Sandwich Islands. By Willum Ellis. In 
4 vols. 12mo. Engravings. 

" This is the most interesting work, in all its parts, we have ever penued."— Qiiar- 
terljf Review, • 

" The simplicity of the narrative, — the graphic beauty of many of the descriptions 
— and the moral grandeur of the whole subject of these volumes, are cslculated to 
produce the most powerful and salutary impression on every religions and cultivated 
mind." — Orme't DiKtmnt on ike South Sea Miesion. 

" Mr. Ellis's volumes are replete with the most interesting details, Ulustrative as 
well oJF the former condition and history^ as of the presenLstate of the South Sea 
Islanders. They comprise a mass of cunous and hignly entertaining information re- 
specting their manners, customs, and traditions." — JSeleak Rewew, 

" The world is much indebted to Mr. Ellis for the information which he has com- 
municated in these 'Volumes; and every person of taste and piety must lie highly 
^tified with their lively and beautiful descriptions of scenery ana natural history, 
as well as with the extraordinary and more than romantic narratives, which no one 
could be better qualified to relate Uian the author himself." — Congregational Majftuine, 

'* We promise our readers a high denee of intellectual and Christian gratification 
in the perusal of these entertaining volumes. The author has addressed himself to 
the consideration of every question which in general interests the lightened trav- 
eller. He has aimed at promoting the advancement of science and commerce, as 
well as religion. By the happiest narratives, and the introduction of the most strik- 
ing incidents, he has preserv^ his work from every approach of dullness and insip- 
idity. The whole pitxluction is worthy of the auuior and the cause." — EwmgeUeal 
Jtfiivaziiu. 

"They are full of incident and information on missionary, literary and scientific 
topics, in connexion with Polynesia. The author's style of writing is engaging, his 
statements are authentic, and derived from personal observation, and he is always 
the Christian and the missionary, as well as the traveller." — Baptiet Magazuu. 

" We takd this opportunity of strongly recommending to our readers Mr. Ellis's 
Polynesiafi Researches. They are hi^ly honourable to the talents and Ipitiy of 
theur author ; who, amidst arduous missionary labours, has been able to collect large 
stores of information, literary, scientific, and popular ; which render his volumes 
both useful and entertaining.''— CAmhon Obaerver. 

** To the nataralist, to those who have a taste for the picturesque of scenery, to 
the philosopher, and the general observer of human nature, these volumes will anbrd 
subjects of entertainment and reflection : but by the Christian, and by thoep especi* 
ally whose zeal and hopes have been most engaged by missionary exertions, they 
will be read with the deepest attention. We recommend these volumes to the Chris- 
tian pubhc, whose thanks Mr. Ellis will universally receive. He has, at least ours ; 
and with him we devoatly exclaim, * What hath God wrought !' " — Methodiet Magadne. 

" Mr. Ellis has here compiled, and presented to the public, a mass of valuable and 
interesting information, every way deserving of genera] perusal." — ChittiaM, Ouar- 
dian. 



i^^^^i^^^^^^i^^i^^^^ 



PERILS OF THE SEA ; being Authentic Narratives of Re- 
markable and Affecting Disasters upon the Deep. With Illustrations of the 
Power and Goodness of God in wonderful Preservations, 18mo. With En- 
gravings. 

This collection of remarkable disasters and preservations has been compiled vrith 
great care from authentic sources. In making the selection attention has been paid 
to the combination of interest, with illustrations of piety and fortitude in suffering, 
and of the power and goodness of Providence in rescuing from destruction when, to 
all appearance, there were no means ox prospect of deliverance. The collection em- 
braces narratives of the loss of the Kent, the Empress, the Lady Hobart, the Essex, 
the Halsewell East Indiaman, the steam-packet Rotnsay Castle, of five Wesleyan 
missionaries, 6cc. &c. 



i#»»>^>»^^«.^>^«^»»»^^i»»»>^i^ 



THE LIVES OF CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. By 

Jambs Augustus St. John. In 8 vols. 18mo. 



* 



Pill 



I 



16 Voyages, Travels, i^c. Published hy J. if J. Warptr. 

SKETCHES OF TURICEY IN 1831 AND '32. By an Amer 
can. 8vo. With numerous f^ngrnTingt. 

" W^e do not hesitate to recommend it as one of the most entertaining books < 
travels which have fallen in our wajr for a long time." — iy. Y. Amtriean. 

*' This is truly a work of a superior order, which may be transmitted to Euro] 
with confidence." — The National Gazette. 

" A mo0t entertaining and instructive work, written with spirit and ease, and, ^ 
, doubt not, with perfect candour. Such a book was much wanted.**— iV. Y. Sumdar 

" We are happy to see that the high opinion we expressed of this work is more ths 
confirmed by the united voice of the press as well as by the multitude of its leaders."- 
N. Y. TravtOtr, 



^^>rf^«^>»^»»»i^»^^^^»<^» 



SIR EDWARD SEAWARD'S NARRATIVE OF HIS SHIP 

WRECK, and consequent Discovery of certain Islands in the Caribbean Sea 
with a Detail of many Extraordinary and highly Interesting Events in his Lik 
Edited by Miss Jans Portbr., In 3 vols. 12mo. 

*' We have finished the perusal of this most agreeable work, and almost regret ths 
the pleasure of a first perusal has gone by; though it is one of those books whic] 
will bear reading again and again.* —ConuMrcto/ Advertiser. 



^v»^^».^»»«»^^>*»#>^»i»i^i» 



CAROLINE WESTERLEY ; or, the Young Traveller fron 
Ohio. ISmo. With Engravings. 

This work will prove instructive as well as attractive to young persons. In iti 
pages ffenius, nature^ morality, and religion have been brought into nappy combina 
tion. it is replete with sound and raticoal piety, judicious remark, and right feeling 



^^"^^J^IN^I^^^*^)^^)^^)**^ 



THE LIFE AND REMAINS OF EDWARD DANIEI 

CLARKE. By Rev. Daihil Ottbr, A.M. 8vo. 



i^^«^»^<»<i«^^<^^^^iv^^»< 



A SUBALTERN'S FURLOUGH : descriptive of Scenes ii 

various Parts of the United States, Upper and Lower Canada, New-Bmnswick 
and Nova-Scotia, during the Summer and Autumn of 1832. By Lieut. £ T 
CoKB. In 2 vols. 12m(C 



l<»i^^'^»«»M»»^^»^«^S<«^'^«^ 



OBSERVATIONS ON PROFESSIONS, LITERATURE 
MANNERS, AND EMIGRATION, IN THE UNITED STATES ANI 
CANADA, made during a Residence there in 1832. By the Rev. Isaac Fid 
1.KR. I2mo. 



i^^«^»^i^i^»>^>» ^^>^>^^^« 



THREE YEARS IN NORTH AMERICA. By James Stuart 

Esq. In 2 vols. 12mo. 



<^^i^^»^^i<^^^^^»#^^^^^M* 



THE CONDITION OF GREECE IN 1827 AND 1828 

being an Exposition of the Poverty, Distreife, and Misery to which the Inhabi 
tants have been reduced by the Destruction of their Towns Hid Villages, an 
the Ravages of their Country b? a merciless Turkish Foe. By Col. Jomatba 
P. MiLLKK, of Vermont. With a Map. 



i»«^i»i^^^^i»«rfM>^^^^>i^^» 



LETTERS FROM THE iEGEAN. By James Emerson. Esc 

8vo. 



<^^»^^^^N^^S#»#^»M^»^^^> 



DOMESTIC MANNERS OF THE AMERICANS. By Mn 

Teollops. Fourth Edition. Complete in One Volume, 8vo. Plates. 



WORKS ON THEOLOGY, &c. 



THE WORKS OF THE REV. ROBERT HALL, A.M. 

With a brief Memoir of his Life, by Dr. Gkboory, and ObMrrationt on his 
Character as a Preacher, by Rev. John Fostee. Edited by Olinthus Gesg- 
OBT, LL.D. In 3 vols. 8vo. With a Portrait. 

" We cannot too highly commend this work to the notice of the public, whether we 
regard the pure and elevaied principles it contains, ot the intellectual ri^om with 
which thev are expressed. Robert Hall was no ordinary man. His mmd com- 
muned witn eternal truth, and, drawing from this fountain, he was able to rivet tAe 
attention of his hearers : and he yet speaks, by his writings, in a language which 
cannot fail to interest and delight both the scholar and the Chrirtian.** — N^ew-York 
Journal of Commerce, 

'* To praise the writings of Robert Hall would be as presumptuous as it is "unne- 
cessar>^ . . . This complete edition of Hall's works is under the superintendence 
fif editors fully competent to their task, and worthy of the writer. . . . Every advan- 
t^tge arising from iuoicious arran]B[ement ana scrupulous correction will belong to it, 
while the original matter, historical and critical, will greatly enhance its valae." — 
The CAurckman. 



«»^^^i»»^»i^^i»^<»^i»^^> 



A DICTIONARY OF THE HOLY. BIBLE. Containing an 

Historical Account of the Persons ; a Geographical and Historical Account of 
Places ; a Literal, Critical, and Systematical Description of other Objects, 
whether Natural, Artificial, Civil, Religious, or Military ; and an Explanation 
of the Appellative Terms mentioned m the Old and New Testaments ; the 
whole comprising whatever important is known concerning the Antiquities of 
the Hebrew Nation and Church of God ; forming a sacred Commentary, a 
Body of Scripture Hisd>ry, Chronology, and Divinity ; and serving in a great 
measure as a Concordance to the Ho^ Bible. By the Rev. John Beown, of 
Haddington. With a*Life of the Author, and an Essay on the Evidence of 
Christianity. Complete in One Volume, 8vo. 

It may not be improper to inform the public that the present is the only perfect edi- 
tion of this work published in the Uniteid States. 

A CONCORDANCE TO THE HOLY SCRIPTURES OF 

THE OLD AND NEW TESTAMENT. By John Beown, of Hadding- 
ton. 32mo. 

The smallest form in which this concordance has ever been printed. It is perfect, 
however, and the type is so clear that it can be easily read. 



rf»^i»i^«»»^i^^i»«^»^i^^^^««» 



EVIDENCE OF THE TRUTH OF THE CHRISTIAN 

RELIGION, derived from the literal Fulfilment of Prophecy. By Rev. Albx- 
ANDBE Kbith. 12mo. 

Of the estimation in which this volume is held in England evidence is afforded by 
the following remark : " Few more satisfactory works in confirmation of the inspua- 
tion of Scripture have appeared within our own time than that of Mr. Keith." The 
writer whose tefllimony is thus given is the Rev. Dr. Shuttleworth, Warden of New 
College, Oxford.' The work is so justly appreciated in Edinburgh that it haspasaed 
through six editions ; and parts of it have been published in tracts in English, French, 
and German. 



i»<^i^i^»K«i^^i^*Mii»^»»^«i 



THE SACRED HISTORY QF THE WORLD, as displayed 

in the Creation and Subsequent Events to the Deluge. By S^eon Tuembe« 
Esq. ISmo. 



^»^i^^^>^i^^>^»^«^i^»«i^^ 



HISTORY OF THE REFORMED RJSLIGION IN FRANCE 

By Rev. Edwaed Smbdlby, M.A. In 2 vols. ISmo. 



•■■ 



] 



18 Works on Theology y ^c. Published by J. 6p J. Harper^ 
ON THE IMPROVEMENT OF SOCIETY BY THE DIF- 

FUSION OF KNOWLEDGE. By Thomas Dick, LL.D. 18mo. With 
Engravings. 

The author of the Christian Philosopher, the Philosophy of Religion, and the Phi- 
losophy of a Future State, has earned for himself a title to the name of a hene£tctoi 
of mankind. For years he has been successfully engaged in the improrement of his 
fellow-beings, bv tne dissemination of useful knpwlMge, and correct ideas upon sub- 
jects of the hignest importance- In the present masterly treatise he has giUhered 
together an alms^ inconceiTabie mass of established and striking facts having relation 
to every department of science connected and improved by sound and radicious obeer- 
vations, at once tending to illustrate the advantages of knowledge, to enlarge and direct 
the mind, and to fiunlitate the acquisition as well as the employment of useful truths. 
In the progress of his work he explains and removes the causes of nomberlea^ CRors, 
concerning the phenomeija of the mental and physical world : points out the true path 
and the most eflfectual means of inquiry ; exemplifies the pleasures and benefits of 
mental cultivation; and exalts the strongest desire for the improvement of the 
faculties, by the singularly £un'diar and beautiful course of his reasoning, which in 
itself fninisnes to the reaaer an ample source of enjoyment. The book is one which 
cannot be laid aside nnfinishea : it enchains the attention with all the force of thfl 
most highly wrought incidents of fiction, while it impresses the mind with an exalted 
sense not only of the truth, but of the intrinsic and measureless value of its revelations 



^»»^>»^^^^«^^^^^^«^» 



THE COMFORTER ; or, Extracts selected for the Consola- 
tion of Mourners, under the Bereavement of Friends and Relations. By a 
Village Pastor. 12mo. 

This work is intended to suggest topics of religions consolation to the afflicted ; 
and the Christian community are assuredljr under great obligations to the ** Village 
Pastor" for his successful attempt to exhibit to thrai at onc;^ the comforts which flow 
in upon the bereaved and distressed behever. In the happy selections he has made, 
he has hadparticular regard to the writings of such men as were experienced in the 
ways of affliction, and over whom it has shed its sanctifying influence. It has been 
warmly recommended by clergymen of different denominatioiiSy as well as by the re- 
ligious periodicals. 



i^»i»^^<^rf^»^^»»^>»^V^^« 



SUNDAY EVENINGS , or, an easy Introduction to the Read- 
ing of the Bible. [Designed for Sunday Reading and SiMiday-School Libra- 
ries.] 3 vols. ISmo. With Engravings. 

The title of 4his excellent little work sufiiciently explains its object. As an intro- 
duction to the knowlodgo of Scripturo History, and an incentive to tho study of ttke 
Sacred Volume, it is calculated to produce the most happy effects upon the ininds of 
children ; and the simplicity of the language preserves to the story all those charms 
which are inherent in the narrative, but are sometimes lost to very jrouthfiil readers 
by their want of a perfect understanding of the words they read. Besides a develcH>ed 
and connected view, in easy language, of the Scripture story itself, the author nas 
endeavoured to intersjperse in the narrative such notices of tne countries spoken of. 
together with such references to the New Testament and practical remarks, as would 
tend to make the book either more interesting, more intellectually improving, or more 
valuable in a moral and religious lig^t : and it cannot fail of obtaming the approbation 
of all judicious and pious parents, and of proving, by the blessing d[ Grod, an assistance 
to the Christian mother, m giving to her children an eariy knowleUge snd love of his 
Sacred WonL 



i»i*^^^i^^i»i* <0>^^ > ^^f^ ^»» 



THE HISTORY OF THE JEWS. By Rev. H. H. Milman. 

In 3 vols. 18mo. With Engravings. 



i»«<»i#>^^<»^«^i^'^^M^i>*XN<« 



A TREATISE ON THE MILLENNIUM ; in which the pre- 

vailinff Theories on that Subject are carefully examined ; and the true Scrip- 
tural Doctrine attempted to be elicited and established. By Oborob Bush, 
A.M. 12mo. 



Works on Theology^ ^e. Published by J. 4* ^' ^forper. 
HJTHER AND THE LUTHERAN REFORMATION. By 

John Soott, A.M. In 2 vols. 18mo. With PortndU. 



W«»^MW>#i^»»i^i»'^«»i^»i^^ 



THE LIFE OF ARCHBISHOP CRANMER. By Charlbs 

Wbbb Lb Bas, A.M. In 2 vols. 18mo^ With a PortraiL 



^*i^^^i^^ ^i»*i^^i»^i»^ 



THE LIFE OF WICLIF. By Chaiiles Webb Le Bas, A.M. 

18mo. With a Portrait. 



i»»»i*M«^»^^«^i^<»^^^<*«i^>i»» 



THE CONSISTENCY OF THE WHOLE SCHEME OP 

REVSLATION with lUelf and with Human ReaMHa. By Pmup Nicholas 
Shuttlmwobth, D.D. 18mo. 



i^^»^»^«^^^>»'^^i^»'i^^ 



THE HISTORY OF THE BIBLE. By Rev. G. R. Guno, 

A.M. In2ToU. 18mo. With Maps. 



i^^#»^^N#>i#N^^^^^^^^^^^» 



SERMONS ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS. By Rev. John 

Wbslbt, a.m. Containing 'a Number of Sermons, nerer before published in 
this Country. In 3 vols. 8to. 



^»^^'*«^^l^»^^l»^»l# !»«<».» 



PRESENT STATE OF CHRISTIANITY, and of the Mis- 
sionary Establishments for its Propagation in all Parts of the World. Edited 
Frbdxrio Shobeel. 12mo. 



^>^»»^»»»i#v»^>^^»»<^*«i#»» 



KEY TO THE REVELATION. In thirty^ix Lecturea, tak- 
ing the whole Book in coarse. By Ethan Smitb. 12mo. 



MATHEMATICS. 

AN ELEMENTARY TREATISE ON MECHANICS. Trans- 
lated from the French of M.Boucharlat. With Additions and Emendations, 
designed, to adapt it to the Use of the Cadets of the U. S. Militaiy Academy. 
By Professor Edwabd H. Couetbnat. Svo. 



i»i^i»^*»^^»^»^^»<»*<»^ 



ELEMENTS OF DESCRIPTIV» GEOMETRY, with their 
Application to Spherical Trigonometry, Spherical Projections^ and Warped 
Sorfiices. By Professor Chaelbs Datibs. Plates. 8to. 



«»«»»»»^^»»«^»i«^»i ^i^i^i^^i** 



A TREATISE ON SHADES AND SHADOWS, AND LIN- 
EAR PERSPECTIVE. By Professor Chablbs Datibs. Swo. 

' ELEMENTS OF SUR^^TNG. With the necessary Tables. 

By Professor Chaelbs Datibs. 18mo. 



^^^«^«»»^<«i^^»«^^^»^»i*i 



GIBSON'S SURVEYING. New and Improved Edition. By 

J. Ryan. Sto. 

A TABLE OF LOGARITHMS, of Logarithmic Sines, and a 

TniTerse Table. 12mo. 



.1 



NATURAL AND MORAL PHILOSOPfl-S 



V 



(■i 



INQUIRIES CONCERNING THE INTELLECTUAL PO\^ 
ERS, AND THE INVESTIGATION OF TRUTH. By Johk Abki 
CROMBit, M.D^ F.R.S. 18mo. [With Questions.] 

THE PHILOSOPHY OF THE MORAL FEELINGS. B; 

John Abbbckombie, M.D., F.R.S. ISmo. 

In the performance of his undertaking the accomplished author exhibits the posses 
sion of a mind thoroughly versed in the details of the science to which his attention i 
directed, and familiar with abstract inquiry. His descriptions of the mental phenon 
ena are singularly lucid, precise, and interesting, and his reasonings sound, oiigina 
and perspicuous. Above all, he has exhibited philosophy as the handmaid of it 
ligion, and made it manifest that all the njs of knowledge naturally convere 
towards that one point in which is situated the throne of heavenly and eternal trutl 

The most able and influential reviews, both of England and the United States 
have given thei strongest encomiums to this admirable work, and it has beei 
extensively adopted in our colleges and higher establishments for education. 



^^>^^i^i^»rf^i«#«^<»>*^«i»i^^ 



LETTERS OF EULER ON DIFFERENT SUBJECTS D 

NATURAL PHILOSOPHY. Addressed to a German Princess. TruisIatM 
by HuNTBB. With Notes and a Life of Euler, by Sir David Bbkwstbb, LL.D 
With additional Notes, by John Gbiscom, LL.D. With a Glossary of Scienti54 
Terms. In 2 vols. 18mo. With Engravings. 

Of all the treatises on Natural Philosophy that have been published in the various 
languages of Europe there is none that has enjoyed a more extensive and permanen 
celebrity than that of the famous mathematician and philosopher Leonard' Eulei 
contained in his letters to the Princess of Anhult. They have been translated inU 
several tongues^ and edition after edition has been pubhshed in Europe with stil 
increasing reputation. The most eminent aavanM of England and France havi 
repeatedly borne testimony to their excellence, not onlv by the strongest expression) 
ofapprolMition, but by assuming the task of editing toe work: the latest who hai 
bestowed this mark of commendation was Sir David Brewster, from whose editior 
this now published was printed. The notes added by him are copious and valuable 
and the publishers of the American edition, still more to enhance the merit of th< 
work, have secured the assistance of Professor Griscom, whose notes will be founc 
numerous and of great utility. 



<^«^^«»'^»^i^»^^«o^^«i^«^»^'^« 



LETTERS ON NATURAL MAGIC. Addressed to Sir Wal- 

ter Scott, Bart. By Sir David Brewster, K.H., LL.D. I8mo. With En- 
gravings. 

The author of this volume pasm under review the principal phenomena of nature, 
and the leading contrivances of art which bear the impress of a supernatural character, 
and more especially those singular illusions of sense m which the mcst perfect organs 
fail to perform their functions, or perform them unfaithfully. These are themes full o£ 
interest, and worthy of the labour bestowed upon them bv the philosophic writer. 

The eye and ear are, of course, the chief organs oCaeception, and, accordingly, 
optical illusions occupy a considerable portion of the volume. Those depending: on 
the ear succeed, and, after these have been described and explained, we are entertained 
with amusing accounts of feats of strength, oteechanical automata, and of some of 
the more popular wonders of chymistry. UndW^each of these divisions anecdotes o{ 
the most interesting kind illustrate the author's explanations, and no subject in itself 
grave and important was ever treated in a more captivating manner. 

ON THE IMPROVEMENT OF SOCIETY BY THE DIF- 

FUSION OF KNOWLEDGE : or, an Illustration of the Advantages whicli 
would result from a more General Dissemination of Rational and Scientific In- 
formation among all Ranks. By Thomas Dick, LL.D: 18mo. Wilt 
Engravings. 



NATURAL HISTORY. 



THE BOOK OF NATURE. By John Mason' Good, M.D., 
F.R.S. To which ii now prefixed, a Sketch of the Author's Life. Complete 
in one Tolumei 8vo. 

** This work \b certainly the beet philosophical digest of the kind which we have 
seen." — Monthly Review. 



^iO^«^^»^»*^»*'^«»'^»»'^>»' 



NATURAL HISTORY ; or, Uncle Philip's Conversations with 
the Children about Tools and Trades among the Inferior Animals. ISmo. 
With numerous Engravings. 



^>i^i»^««^^i^^«^^i^»«^»i^» 



THE NATURAL HISTORY OF INSECTS. With nmnterbus 

Engravings. 18mo. 

The study of Natural History is at all times, and to almost every person, eminently 

S leasing and instructive : the object in this admirable volume has been to render it 
oubly captivating by the plain and simple style in which it is treated, and by the 
numerous engravmgs with which the text is illustrated. There is no branch of this 
delightful science more pleasing than that, which exhibits the wonderful goodness and 
wisaom of the Creator, as they are displayed in the endless varieties of insect life — 
their forms, habits, capacities and wodu^— vid which investigates the nature and 
peculiarities of these ditaiinutive tribes of animated existence. 



^»»i^»i^^^i^^»^«^^^i^^«^ 



A POPULAR GUIDE TO THE OBSERVATION OF NA- 

TUKE. By Robeet Mvdib, Esq. ISmo. With Engravings. 



^»^»#>^^i^«»*<i^#<^^^#»^^ 



AN OUTLINE OF THE NATURAL HISTORY OF 

EGYPT. By Rev. Micbaxl Rdssbll, LL.D. [No. 23 of the Family Li- 
brary.] Idmo. 



^i»>i^*^>»«^« ^>^i^^«^^i^^ 



AN OUTLINE of THE NATURAL HISTORY of PALES- 
TINE. By Rev. .M. Russbll, LL.D. [No. 27 Fam. Lib.] 18mo. 



^^>^^^#V^'^>^>^^«^«^^*»^ 



AN OUTLINE OF THE NATURAL HISTORY OF NU- 
BIA AND ABYSSINIA. By Rev. M. RossBL^ LL.D. 18mo. No. 61 
of the Family Library.] Engravings. 



i^^<^»^^^ « ^O^i^«rf^i^^#^»» 



DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES OF THE NATURAL HIS- 
TORY OF THE NORTH Aii£RICAN REQiONS. By Jamss Wilson, 
Esq. 18mo. [No. 63 of the rS^Ry Libn^] Engravings. 



^»i»i^^i»N»i 



LiiDrag.] 



ILIiUSTRATIONS OF THE CLIMATE, GEOLOGY, AND 

NATURAL HISTORY OF THE POLAR SEAS AND REGIONS ; with 
an Account of the Whale-Fishery. By Professors Leslie and Jamison. With 
Engravings. [No. 14 of the Family Library.] 18mo. 



^«^i^i»^^^>»i»»»^»^> 



ILLUSTRATIONS OflWHE ZOOLOGY, BOTANY, CLI- 
MATE, GEOLOGY, AND ■FERALOGY OF BRITISH INDIA. By 
Jamxs Wilson, Esq. R. K. Gkitilli, LL.D. and Professor Jamrsom. 18mo. 
[Nos. 47, 48, dc 49 of the Family Library.} Engravings. 



i^^^>^^«^^^^K»^«#i^^rfM« 



ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE GEOLOGY, MINERALOGY, 

AND ZOOLOGY OF AFRICA. By Professor Jambson and Jamu Wilson, 
Esq. [No. 16 of the Family Library.] 18mo. 



1. 



-''■* 



w 



MISCELLANEOUS WORKS. 



THE SWISS FAMILY ROBINSON ; or, Adventuros of a 

Father and Mother and Four Sont on a Desert Island. The Progreaa of the 
Story forming a clear lUuatration of the first Principles of Natural History, 
and many Branches of Science which most immediately apply to the Business 
of Life. In 2 toIs. 18mo. Engravings. 

The purpoee of this pleasing story is to convey instructlbn in the arts and Natural 
History* and, st the same time, to inculcate by example principles which tend to the 
promotion of social happiness. Every one has heard of Robinson Crusoe, and the 
unrivalled and long-continued popularity of that admirable narrative, proves that 
the tastes and feelings to which it addreases itself are among the strongest and moat 
universal which belong to human nature. The adventures of the Swiss family are 
somewhat similar in character, and, of course, in interest ; and they illustrate, in the 
meet finrcible and pleasing manner, the efficacy of piety, industry, ingenuity, and good- 
temper, in smoothing dimculties and procuring* enjoyments under the most adverae 
circumstances. The story abounds with instruction and entertainment, and well 
deserves the high encomium that has been passed upon it, of being one of the best 
children's books ever writteiL 



<^^>f>^>0iit00*0t^0>»i0i**^t> 



THE SON OF A GENIUS. A Tal^for the Use of Youth. 

By Mrs. Hopland. I8mo. Eneravfaigs. ^ '\ 

This admirable story has been too long familiar tow publiof^ least to that portion 
of it which has advanced beycmd the period of chfldhood— tofiquire either eulogy or 
description. It has for many years maintained its plaee amflDg the best and most 
esteemed juvenile works m the English lan^age; and its popularity is easily 
accounted for by the touching interest of the incidents, and the purity of the principles 
it inculcates both of wisdom and religion. The publishers were induced to reprint 
it, partlv by the advice and solicitations of many of their finends, and their own 
knowledge of its merits, and partly by the consicleration that it has long been out 
of print, and that it was very difficult to procure a copy. 



i^»<^»i«»«^^>^^^«»>^^^i^^ 



THE YOUNG ORUSOE ; or, the Shipwrecked Boy. CJontain- 

ing an Account of his Shipwreck, and Residence for Several Months alone upon 
an Uninhabited Island. By Mrs. Hoflan d. I8mo. Engravings. 

Mrs. Hofland, the- admirable author of the ** Son of a Genius,** and other excellent 
juvenile productions, is jilto the writer of this pleasing story. In its plan and 
objects it is somewhat similar to the ** Swiss Family Robinson^** ana, like it, 
will be read with delight by every little boy or girl who can sympathize in the mis- 
fortunes, or rejoice in the comiB||8 ^ enjoyments of -|nother. The style, the in- 
cidents, and the pervading spirit nwBi the nighest degreia excellent, — as, indeed, 
are all the writings of this accompnHd aond appiable author. ^ The culture of the 
youthful mind requires talents of a peculiar charaeter ; and, when accomplished with 
ability, reflects the highest credit upon the succesdul teacher. None have been more 
successful than Mrs. Hofland ; aiid her name alone is a sufficient warrant for the 
merits of any book to which it is appended. 



*«i»^*»»>»i»»^^»»<»^#»^#<»» 



THE CLERGYMAN'S ORPHAN, and Other Tales. By a 

Olergyman^ For the Use of Youth. 18mo. Engravings. 

The author of the " Clergyman's Orphan** informs us that vrith most of the chsr- 
acters whose romantic history is here recorded he was personally acquainted ; and 
vouches that it is substantially a narrative of facts. Tne object of tne work ii to 
stren^hen in the minds of young persons the conviction of a special superintending 
Providence. 



^<#^»»«i<M^W»^^0*»^»» ^^ 



DISCOURSES AND ADDRESSES ON SUBJECTS OF 

AMERICAN HISTORY, ARTS, AND LITERATURE. By Guliah C. 

YiEPLANCK. 12mo. 



24 Miscellaneous Works Published by J, 4* •^^ Harper. 






COURT AND CAMP OF BONAPARTE. 18mo. With i 

Portrait of Prince Talleyrand. 

This Tolume has been carefully prepared as a suitable and indispensable cam 
panion to the Life of Napoleon. It contains the substance of the many hundrec 
Tolumes of Memoirs, Lives, Narratives, anecdotes, &c., connected with the caree: 
of Napoleon, with which the press of France has been so prolific during the last fi/ieei 
years. It presents rapid but vigorously drawn sketches of the emperor's brothers 
wives, sisters, ministers, marshals, and generals ; and those who wish to gain ] 
competent knowledge of ** Napoleon and his timet^* will find no work in anv languaei 
which conveys so much information in so little space or in a more lively ana agreeaUi 



manner. 



J 



^»»«^«^^«»^«^<«fc^»^^i^i»^ 



THE ORNAMENTS DISCOVERED. By Mrs. Hughs 

18mo. Engravings. 

The reputation of Mrs. Hughs (of Philadelphia) as an agreeable and instractiv^ 
writer is already fiimly estabbshed. She has doiie much for youth, and the piesen 
volume will add to the obli^tions they owe her. It is written with plainness, ye 
elegance ; and the story, wh^le it inculcates useful lessons in morality and religioo 
will be found exceedingly interesting. 



n^^>^<^^ m ^tmttt*^ » «i» m ^ 



THE MISCELLANEOUS W6RKS OF THE REV. JOH^ 

WESLEY. In 3 vols. 8iM>^ 



« ^»^^»i^»»^»i^^«^^«^'^x«i^^ 



THE LETTERS OF THE BRITISH SPY. By Williai 

Wirt, Esq. To which is prefixed, a Biographical Sketch of the Author. ISkao 
With a Portrait. 



^«^^«^»^i^^i^^»»i^«^»^i^^«^ 



THE PERCY ANECDOTES; Revised Edition. To whicl 
is added, a Valuable Collection of American Anecdotes, original and selected 
Illustrated with Portraits. 8vo. 



i»«*«^»^^i»^»*«rfx«^^»^^^i^> 



ENGLAND AND THE ENGLISH. By the Author of -Pel 

ham," •* Devereux," and " Eugene Aram." In 2 vols. 12mo. 



<^»^>i^N^»^^^^#^^^^N^»^^^>Nrffc 



THE COOK'S ORACLE, AND HOUSEKEEPER'S MAN 

UAL. Containing Receipts for Cookery, and Directions for Carving. Alsc 
the Art oj composing the^most simple and most biffhly finished Broths, Gravies 

avA^io^ Essences ; Pastry, Preserve! 

pflp System of Cookery for Catholi 

l.DT Adapted 
ISmo. With Engravings. 



Soups, Sauces, Store Sauces, and fla^^^io^ Essences ; Pastry, Preserve! 
Puddings, Pickles, dec With a compflp System of Cookery for Catholi 
Families. By William Kitchiiier, M.dT Adapted to the American Pobli 



Puddings, Pickles, dec With a com 
Families. By Willllm 
by a Medical Gentleman. 



i^»^«^«»«»i^«^^«»'^»^^»^^«^» 



MODERN AMERICAN COOKERY : Containing Direction 

for making Soups, Roasting, Boiling, Baking, Dressing Vegetables, Poultr 
Fish, Made Dishes, Pies, Gravies, Pickles, Puddings, Sick Cookery, ^c. Wit 
a List of Family Medical Receipts, and a Valuable Miscellany. By Miss Pki 
DENCB Smith. 16mo. 



fc<«^^^ ■^^'^^•^^ 



LIVES OF THE APOSTLES AND EARLY MARTYE 

OF THE CHURCH. 18mo. Wiih an Engraving. 



i»^.^i^^»^ ^>»«^i^»^w^^^«» 



WILD SPORTS OF THE WEST. With Legendary Tal« 
and Local Sketches. By the Author of " Stories of Waterloo.*' In % toI 
I l2mo. 



Miscellaneous Works Published by J, ^ J. Harper. 25 

ENGLISH SYNONYMES, with Copious niustrations and Ex- 
planations, drawn from the beat Writers. A New Edition. By Gkorok Crabb. 
8vo. 

No person who has not seen Mr. Crabb*s work can conceive the ntimber of 
synonyines in the English language. Every scholar, and all professional and public 
men ought to possess themselves of this work. Indeed, no person can read or write 
understandingly without being familiar with the legitimate definition of these innu- 
merable sjrnon mes. 

" A work of such general credit among scholars needs no word of commendatUm 
with reference to its design and execution." — U. S. Gazette, 



^>^^»^^>^««»»«^^»>^i^^«^^ 



NATURAL fflSTORY ; or, Uncle Philip's Conversations with 
the Children about Tools and Trades among the Inferibr Animals. I81110. 
With numerous Engravings. 

This work has deservedly receivsd the highest encomiums, not only for the extent, 
utihtv, and interesting nature of the information it conveys, but also mr the skill with 
which the ideas and language are adapted to the tastes as well as the capacities of 
youthful readers. But these are not its only or its greatest merits : its highest claims 
to praise are the tone of sincere and earnest pietr which pervades the conversations, 
and the excellence of the precepts drawn from the wonders they disclose. 



^^^x»#^^>^^>» ^^^^^«^ 



A POPULAR GUroE TO THE OBSERVATION OF 

NATURE ; or. Hints of Inducement to the Study of Natural Productions and 
Appearances, in their Connexions and Relations. By Robert Mudib. 18mo. 
With Engravings. 

'fhe author is an ardent lover of nature, and a close obs rver of the works of the 
Creator, and his aim has been toawaken in his readers a spirit kindred to his own, and 
to point out to the student tke true path of inquiry ; that which alone can lead to the 

i'ust perception and full enjo3rment of the innumeriU>le channf that lie scattered so 
ivisnly around us in every form of animate and inanimate existence. In the accom- 
plishment of his undertaking he has produced a work not more remarkable for its 
originality and for the extent and accuracy of the mformation it conveys, than for the 
novelty 01 its views, the infinite variety and wisdom of its reflections, and the sin^lar 
interest with which it fills the mind 01 the delighted reader. To the tyro this guide is 
of incalculable value, and to the accomplished scholar it recommends itself by the new 
and striking features with which it invests the ezhaustless subject of which it treats. 



i^^i^^i#>^«»i»^i^^<^^>^^»^ 



DOMESTIC DUTIES ; or, Instructions to Young Married La- 
dies, on the Management of their Households, and the Regulation of their Con- 
duct in the various Relations and Duties of Married Life. By Mrs. W. Pabkib. 
With Alterations adapted to the Anierican Reader. ISmo. 

" The volume before us is a perfect ttade meeum for the younj^ married lajiy, who 
may resort to it on all questions of household economy and etiquette. . . . Tnere is 
notning omitted with which it behooves a lady to be acquainted.**— JfoniA/yJIfd^asnu. 



i»<»«iO^^»*»«<»»#<»^»»i»i»i^« 



LECTURES ON POETRY AND GElNERAL LITERA- 

TURB. By Jambs Montoombbt. l2mo. 



i»»»i^^i^^«»>»«^»»^»>^X»»»#Xi 



APICIAN MORSELS ; or, Tales of thi Table, Kitchen, and 

Larder : containinff a liew and improved Code of £a/ics ; select Epicurean Pre- 
cepts; Nutritive M xims, Reflections,. Anecdotes, dtc Illustrating the Veri- 
table Science of the Mouth ; which includes the Art ^f never bretuifasting at 
home and always dining abroad: By Dick Humblbbboius Sbcunous. 12mo. 



i^^»^^<^^#N^^N#^PM^>^#^>^ 



RELIGIOUS DISCOURSES. By Sir Walter Scott, Bart. 
18mo. 



WORKS OF FICTION. 



Tte TALES, NOVELS, &c- of MARIA EDGEWORTH- 

New and Complete Edition. Illuatrated with Elegant Engrannfft on Steel, 
in a eeries of Nine Volumes, 12mo. Either of which may be had aeparatelj. 

Vol. I. contains— Castle Rackrent— Essay on Irish Bulls— Essay on Self-Justifi- 
cation—Forester—The Prussian Vase— The Good Aunt 

Vol. II. contains— Angelinar— The Oood French Goremeas— Mademoiselle Pa- 
nache—The Knapsack— Lame Jcrvas— The Will— The Limeiick Glores— Out of 
Debt out of Danger— The Lottery— Rosanna. 

Vol. III. contains— Murad the Unlucky— The Manufacturers— The Contrastr— 
The Grateful Negro— To-Morrow— Ennui— The Dun. 

Vol. IV. contains— Manoeuvring — Almira — Vivian. . 

Vol. V. contains— The Absentee— Madame de Fleoiy— Emily de Conlange*— 
The Modem Griselda. 

Vol. VI. contains— Belinda. 

Vol. VII. contains — ^Leonora— Letters on Female Education — Patronage. 

Vol. VIIL conlains-r-the Remainder of Patronage — Comic Dramas. 

Vol. IX. contams— Harrington — Ormond, dec. dec. 

D7 Miss Edgeworth's new work, now in press in England, will be published uni- 
form with the above as early as poauble after its arrival m this country. 



^i^^»>^<^<»^»^^>»^«*M»»» 



THE CLUB-BOOK. In 2 vols. 12mo. 

Contents— Bertrand de la Croix, by G. P. R. Jamis : Hadad ben Ahad, The 
Fatal Whisper, The Painter, The Unguarded Hour, The Book of Life, by John 
Galt : The Gipsy of the Abruzzo, by Tyboni Powkr : Eisenbach, The Deer- 
Stalkers of Glenskiach, The Three l[eameySj by Anobkw Pickkn : The Sleep- 
less Woman, by William Jbrdan : Dramatic^ Scries, by Lord F. L. Gowbb : 
Gowden Gibbie, by Allan Cunningham : The Bridal ot Borthwick, by D. M. 
MoiB : The Laidlaws and the ScotU, The Bogle o* the Brae, by Thb Ettbick 
Shbpubbd : The Cheaterie Packman, by Lbitcu Ritohib. 



i»»»i^^i^^«»>»«^»»^»>^X»»»#Xi 



TALES OF GLAUBER-SPA. In 2 vols. 12iiio. 

Contents— Le Bossu, by Miss Sbdowick : Childe Koeliffe*s Pilgrimage, and 
SeUm, by J. K. Pauloino, Esq. : The- Skeleton*s Cave, and Medfield, by W. C. 
Bbyant, Esq. : The Block-Hou89. by Wm. Lbgobtt, Esq. : The Introduction, 
Mr. Green, 'and Boyuca, by the late R. C. Sands, Esq. 



^<»l^»*N^^<»«^«^»»»^»>^<#«» 



By E. L. BuLWER, M.P. 
PELHAM ; or, the Adventures of a Gentleman. 2 vols. 12mo. 

THE DISOWNED. In 2 vols. 12mo. 

DEVEREUX. In 2 vols. 12mb. 

PAUL CLIFFORD. In 2 vols. I2mo. 

EUGENE ARAM. In 2 vols. 12mo. 

CONVERSATIONS WITH AN AMBITIOUS STUDENT 

IN ILL HEALTH : with Other Pieces. 12mo. 

FALKLAND. 12mo. 



^^^<*M«» ^M'^XW^MX' ^^ 



THE DUTCHMAN'S FIRESIDE. By James K. Paulding, 

Esq. In2Tols. l2mo. 

WESTWARD HO! A Talc. By James K. Pauldwo, Esq. 
In 8 Tols. Itoo. 



28 Works of Fiction Published by J. ^ J. Harper. 

By G. P. R. James, Esq. 
RICHELIEU, A Tale of France. In 2 vols. 12mo. 

DARNLEY. A Novel. In 2 vols. 12mo. 

DE L'ORME. In 2 vols. 12mo. 

PHILIP AUGUS,TUS ; or, the Brothers in Arms- In 2 to] 
12ino. 

HENRY MASTERTON; or, the Adventures of a Young Ca 
^ier. In 2 yoLb. 12mo. 

MARY QF BURGUNDY ; or, the Revolt of Ghent. 2 vol 
12mo. 



^X«^«#XX>^«»>^l# ' ^0»^i^^ 



THE YOUNG DUKE. By Benjamin D'Israxu, Esq. In 

vols. i2mo. 

CONTARINI FLEMING. A Psycological Auto-biograph; 

By Bbnjamin D'Israklt, Esq. 



^*S»<»>^^»|^^^»^0«»^>^^ 



THE SMUGGLER. A Tale. By J. Banim, Esq. In 2 voh 

12mo. 

THE DENOUNCED. By J. Banim, Esq. In 2 voli 

l2mo. 

THE ADVENTURES OF CALEB WILLIAMS. By Wn 

LiAM Godwin, Esq. hi 2 io\b. 12mo. 

CLOUDESLEY. By William Godwin, Esq.- In 2 Tola 

12mo. 



i»^i^i^^»^^»^^^^p<»^^»«^^« 



JACQUELINE OF HOLLAND. By Thomas Colley Grattan 

Esq. In 2 voU. 12mo. 

THE HEIRESS OF BRUGES. By Thomas Collet Grat 

TAN, Eaq. In 2 vols. 12mo. 

TRAITS OF TRAVEL. By Thomas Collet Grattan, Esq 
In 2 voLb. 12mo. 

TALES OF THE EARLY AGES. By Horace Smith, Esq 

In 2 vols. 12mo. 

WALTER COLYTON. By Horace Smith, Esq. In 2 toIs 

12mo. 

THE NEW FOREST. By Horace Smith, Esq. Li 2 toIs 
12mo. 

LA WRIE TODD ; or, the Settlers in the Woods. By John Galt 

Esq. In 2 vols. 12mo. 

SOUTHENNAN. By J. Galt, Esq. In 2 vols. 12mo. 



Works of Fiction Published by J. ^ J. Harper. 89 

WAVERLEY; or, TIS SIXTY YEARS SINCE. By Sir 
Walter Scott. In 2 yoLb. 12mo. Revised, corrected, and enlarged bj the 
Author. 

CHRONICLES OF THE CANONGATE. By Sir Walter 

Scott. In 2 vols. 12mo. 

TALES OF MY LANDLORD. Fourth Series. Comprising 
Caitle Dangerous and Robert of Paris. Bj Sir Walter Scott. In 8 vols. 
12mo. 



i^» ^»»^«»^^*>^»^^^»#»»«»o 



THE REFUGEE IN AMERICA. By Mrs. F. Trollope. 

In 2 Yols. 12mo. 

THE ABBESS. By Mrs. Trollope.- In 2 vols. 12mo. 



«^^|^^|»«^^X^»»^»»^K»^^» 



ANASTASIUS ; or, Memoirs of a Greek. By T. Hope, Esq. 

In 8 Yols. 12mo. 

THE YOUTH AND MANHOOD OF CYRIL THORNTON. 

By Hamilton, Author of ** Peninsular Campaigns.** 2 yoIs. 12mo. 

EVELINA^ or, the History of a Young Lady's Introduction to 
the World. By Miss BuamT (Madame D*ArbIay). 2 vols. 12mo. 

DE VERE. By R- P. Ward, Esq. In 2 vols. 12mo. 

THE SPY. By J. F. Cooper, Esq. In 2 vols. 12mo. 

' AFFECTING SCENES ; being Passages from the Diary of a 

late Physician. In 2 vols. 18mo. 



i^^i^^i^^^»^»^i^X»»»»^»0 



THE INCOGNITO ; or, SINS AND PECCADILLOES. By 

Don T. Db Tkueba. In 2 vols. 12mo. 

ROMANCE OF HISTORY : SPAIN. By Don T. De Trukba. 

In 2 vols. 12mo. 

ROMANCE OF HISTORY : FRANCE. By Leitch Ritchib, 

Esq. In 2 vols. 12mo. 

ROMANCE OF HISTORY : ITALY. By C. Macfarlane. 

In 2 vols. 12mo. 

DREAMS AND REVERIES OF A QUIET MAN. By T. 

S. Fat, Esq. In 2 vols. 12mo. 

ROXOBEL. By Mrs. Sherwood. In 3 vols. 18mo. 
HAVERHILL. By J. A. Jones, Esq. 2 vols. 12mo. 
ADVENTURES OF A YOUNGER SON. By E. Trelaw- 

mkt, Esq. In 2 vols. 12mo. 

MARTIN FABER : the Story of a Criminal. By W. G. 

SiMMBs, Esq. ISSQO. 

RECOLLECTIONS OF A CHAPERON. Edited by Lady 

Bacrb. In 2 vols. 12mo. 

VILLAGE BELLES. In 2 vols. 12mo. 




'\ 



\ 



r 



I 



led on 



i 



i 



b^ 






r 



r 



i «' 



« 






Teio" " 5 !"« ^" 



CECIl H, GREEN LIBRARY ; 

STANFORD UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES 

STANFORD. CALIFORNIA 94305-60' 

(650) 723-1493 

grncirc^sulmail. stanFord.edu 

All booki are subject to recall 

DATE DUE