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MILITARY
REMINISCENCES.

VOL. I.

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MILITARY REMINISCENCES

EXTRACTED FROM

A JOURNAL

OF NEARLY

FORTY YEARS' ACTIVE SERVICE

EAST INDIES.

BY COLONEL JAMES WELSH,

OF THE MADRAS ESTABLISHMENT,

The battles, sieges, fortunes, I have pass'd,
E'en from my boyish days."

VOL. I.

SECOND EDITION.

LONDON:
SMITH, ELDER, AND CO., CORNHILL.

MDCCCXXX.

/AttkuoofI and Co., Printers, Old Haiku.

THE HONOURABLE

WILLIAM FULLARTON ELPHINSTONE,

MANY YEARS A DIRECTOR

OF THE

HONOURABLE EAST INDL4 COMPANY,

TO WHOSE EARLY PATRONAGE, I AM INDEBTED I'OR THAI RANK IN

THE SERVICE,

WHICH HAS ENABLED ME TO REVISIT

MY NATIVE LAND,

I DEDICATE THIS WORK,

AS A TRIBUTK OF LASTING GRATITUDE AND ESTEEM,
EROM HIS MOST FAITHIUL AND OBEDIENT SERVANT,

JAMES WELSH.

INTRODUCTION.

In this Literary age, when so many works are
given to the public by men of acknowledged
ability and superior talent, it may appear not a
little presumptuous in an obscure individual, to
hazard a production which, whilst it lays claim
to no other merit than that of depicting reality,
lies open to censure in, perhaps, every other in-
stance. To disarm criticism, and lure the indul-
gent reader to a patient perusal of the following
pages, the Author at once announces himself a
plain, unlettered Soldier ; who, having spent the
greater part of his life in a distant climate, and
in the tented field, has just returned to his be-
loved Britain, with all the hoarded feelings of
affection, excited by so long an absence from
" his own, his native land!'''
a 2

viii INTRODUCTION.

Born of respectable parents, in the Capital of
Scotland, it was his fate, early in the year 1790,
to be launched into the world without a pilot;
and, at the inexperienced age of fifteen, when
more fortunate boys are just commencing that
part of their education which is to fit them for
public life, to embark as a Cadet for the East
Indies.

In a work written with such very unfavourable
preparatives for any literary composition, he trusts
the candid reader will not look for the polish of the
classics, but rather tolerate a plain unvarnished
statement of facts ; which are related just as they
occurred, and were noted down in a series of hasty
Journals, kept solely for his own amusement,
and certainly not originally intended for publica-
tion. The kind, though perhaps mistaken, advice
and entreaty of friends in India, first suggested
the idea of printing them ; and having been so
long accustomed to a busy life, and for many
years filled commands and situations, the duties
of which occupied his whole time ; the unusual
vacuity of a sudden retirement held out a strong-
inducement to compliance ; whilst the leisure of
a tedious voyage having enabled him to extract

INTRODUCTION. IX

such parts as appeared the most likely to prove
interesting to strangers, he now gives them to the
public. They are thus published, then, vs^ith " all
their imperfections on their head," in the fond
hope that some good may be found to redeem
their inaccuracies, and with the earnest entreaty,
that his kind readers will, even if the attempt
to gratify them fail, indulgently take the endeavour
for the deed.

Cheltenham,
June I8th, 1830.

ERRATA.

Page 292, line 19, /or hundred, read thousand.

— 309, — 22,/oc falowes, reatZ talowes.

— 343, — 21,/.)rPunug, read Punny.

C O N T E N T S,

CHAPTER I.

Arrival at Calcutta — Madras — Veliore — State of East Indian
Affairs in 1790, and two following years — Capture of Pondi-
cherry — the Company's Native Army — Tanjore — Trinchino-
poly — Negapatam — Madura — Ramnad — Trincomallee —
Ramiseram — Negumbo — Night Adventure at Columbo — Caltura 1

CHAPTER II.

Point de Galle — Singular instances of National Revenge — Ma-
dura — Dreadful Climate of Masulipatam — Pallamcottah —
Cascades of Papanassum and Courtallum — Tutacorine — the
Poligar War — Skirmish at Pelhavunthally — Punjalumcoorchy
— Failure of the first Assault — Siege and Capture - - 34

CHAPTER III,

Continuation of the Poligar War — Comery — Cutting through the
Sherew^le Jungle — Skirmishes of the Foraging and Working
Parties — Arrival of Woodia Taver — Departure from the Jungle,
and arrival at Ookoor - - - - -.gj

CHAPTER IV.

Continuation of the Poligar War — Inauguration of Woodia Taver
Capture of the Temple of Perahmallee — The Pagoda of Calia-
coile, Velli Murdo and Cheena Murdoo, the Rebel Chiefs —
Their Capture and Fate - - - - - 1 1 .>

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER V.

Tranquebar — Cuddalore — Sadras— The Garden of Sautghur —
The Mysore Country — Bangalore — Seringapatam — Troops for
the Mahrattah War — Poonah — Capture of Ahmednugger - 136

CHAPTER VI.

The first Mahrattah War — Aurungabad — Dowlutabad — Victory
of Assay e, under General Wellesley — Battle of Kerjet Koria-
gauin — Visit of Scindia's Vakeel — Battle of Argaum — Elachee-
poor and Gawilghur — Arrival of Amrut Row, and Ceremonial
of his Introduction - - - - --166

CHAPTER VII.

Mankarseer—Sholapoor — Poonah — Return to Bombay — Second
Mahrattah War — Capture of the Fort of Chandore — Lassul-
gaura — Dhoorp — Capture of Galnah — The Athaweesy Country

— Surat — Soanghur — Serai — Governor Duncan — Cascade of
Gokauk - - - - - - - 203

CHAPTER VIII.

Savanore — Hurryhur — Lake of Tinghully Tallowe, and it's Poi-
sonous Pasture — Colossal Statue at Nungydeo — Nunjengoad

— Daraporam — Dindigul — Voyage to Europe, and return to
Madeira _______ 254

CHAPTER IX.

Return to India — Capture of the Arambooly Lmes — General
Orders — Nagracoile — Oodagherry — Trevanderam — Petrifac-
tions at Trevycary — Vceteevailum — Trinomally — Ryacottah

— Oosoor — Nundydroog — Bangalore ... 286

CHAPTER X.

Coorg — Marekherah, the Capital — The Maha Swamee — Shooting
Excursion to the Interior — Second \'isit and Return - -328

LIST OF PLATES

TO THE FIRST VOLUME.

No. Page.

1 Frontispiece — A Hindoo Pagoda.

2 Vignette on Title Page — Madras Native Horse Artillery.

3 Madura 21

4 Position of the Army before Columbo opposite 28

5 Caltura 32

6 Plan of Point de Galle opposite 34

7 Point de Galle from the North-west ditto 36

8 Point de Galle from the South-western Roads .... ditto 36

9 Point de Galle from the Watering-place ditto 38

1 Point de Galle from the North-east ditto 38

1 1 Fort of Pallamcottah 46

1 2 Pagoda of Papanassum 48

13 Fall at Courtallum 50

14 Map of Tinnevelly 54

15 Punjalumcoorchy 63

16 Map of Punjalumcoorchy 68

17 Plan of Comery 87

18 View of ditto 88

1 9 Plan of Sherewele 90

20 Operations in the Sherewele Jungle 93

21 Plan of Caliacoile 123

22 Seringapatam , 146

XIV LIST OF PLATES.

No. Page.

23 Ahmednugger, from the Breaching Battery 154

24 Plan of the Battle of Argaum 188

25 Fort of Sholapoor , 206

26 Hill Fort of Chandore 213

27 Fortress of Dhoorp 221

28 Hill Fort of Galnah 226

29 Small Fort of Bearah 238

30 Hill Fort of Soanghur 245

31 Cascade of Gokauk 252

32 A Royal Tiger 261

33 Colossal Statue at Nungydeo 264

34 Southern Hill Fort of Arambooly 288

35 Palace and Pagoda at Vaeteevallum 302

36 Pagoda of Trinomally 304

37 Hill Fort of Ryacottah 306

38 Ditto of Nundydroog 310

39 Hyder's Drop 314

40 Nundydroog and Baynes' Hill 316

41 Hill Fort of Kurmuldroog 319

42 Impression from Scindiah's Seal of State 354

MILITARY REMINISCENCES.

CHAPTER I.

Arrival at Calcutta — Madras — Viilore — State of East Indian Affairs
in 1790, and two following years — Capture of Fondicherrij — the
Company s Native Army — Tanjore — Trichinopoly — Negapata?n —
Madura — Rainnad — Trincomallce — Ramiseram — Ncgnmbo — Nig/it
Adventure at Columho — Caltura.

CALCUTTA.
The occurrences of an Indian voyage have been so fre-
quently recounted, and are generally so extremely similar,
that I shall pass over the one which brought me in safety
to the East; and, landing a stranger on that distant shore,
at once proceed to trace the scenes of my future life. Al-
though appointed to Madras, it was my fortune to embark
in a ship bound for Bengal, and I had thus an opportunity
of seeing the far-famed City of Palaces at my very outset.
To attempt a description of my first impressions, on enter-
ing the river Hooghly, in July, 1790, after being nearly six
months at sea, would be perfectly futile ; since all that one

VOL. 1. B

2 MILITARY [A.D.

has ever heard, or read, or conceived of India, fails infi-
nitely short of the reality ; and so lively, so novel, so ani-
mated, and so interesting is the picture which presents it-
self, that the effect has a much greater resemblance to en-
chantment, than to fact. The stranger sees a fine majestic
river, navigable for some hundred miles inland, covered
with vessels of every form and size, and belonging to people
of every nation ; — it's banks overspread to the very water's
edge, with every tint of verdure which the eye has ever
beheld ; — whilst the native Bengalees in their country
boats, crowding round the ship with animals, fowls, and
fish, as novel as themselves, and talking a jargon perfectly
unintelligible ; with their diminutive limbs and shrivelled
countenances, present to the astonished Grifiin's* imagina-
tion a race of beings seemingly intended by nature to com-
plete the link between man, the image of his Maker, and
the tribe of apes and monkeys. This first impression
would, indeed, induce a belief that all the natives of India
are so miserable and decrepid, as scarcely to deserve the
appellation of human beings ; but on arriving at Calcutta,
the delusion vanishes, and men of all sizes, with counte-
nances of the most varied hues and expressions, and limbs
of the most perfect symmetry and elegance, are to be met
with, in far greater numbers than the former, who appear
limited to a very narrow space ; whilst, on advancing still
farther northward, they generally improve still more in sta-
ture, as well as intellect.

The approach to Calcutta, denominated Garden-Reach,
in addition to it's native beauties, is for some miles

* An European on his first arrival.

1790.] REMINISCENCES. *3

enlivened by the appearance of lovely gardens and country
seats : the largest ships passing within cannon shot of the
ramparts of Fort William ; an irregular hexagon of consi-
derable extent, and perhaps the cleanest and most beautiful
fortification in the world. A fine broad walk by the river's
side, leads to the town, which, however, opening on the
sight, before reaching the fort, discovers a picture of gran-
deur not easily described ; whilst every thing the stranger
meets with on landing, differs so widely from all that he
had been accustomed to in Europe, that the mind is lost in
surprise : a surprise, not a little increased, on finding that
here no European uses his own legs ; but that all ranks
and ages must bend to the custom of the place, and be
carried. Here, then, the poor Griffin, once landed, finds
himself a man of some consequence ; surrounded by hun-
dreds of natives of various castes and costumes, all eagerly
pressing on him their proffered services, he is hurried into '
a palanquin, and borne away as it were in triumph, he
knows not whither. Arrived at length at the house where
he is to reside, his wonder still increases. He is ushered in
by a loud discordant " Baar ka Sahib Aiijah, Khuhher
de Jaow,^' — uttered by the Duncaun, or door-keeper, an
indispensable appendage to every European house in Cal-
cutta, and every thing within, as well as without, tends to
recall to his imagination the scenes in the Arabian Nights'
Entertainments. I pass over his first meeting with, and
greetings from, relations and friends, as also the sumptu-
ous and gratifying meal which is first set before him ; and,
if he have had the good fortune to arrive between the
months of February and November, convey him at once

4 MILITARY [A.D.

into his bed-room, where, it is ten to one, if he get a wink
of sleep for several hours. For want of air he is forced to
open his musquito curtains, and then comes on the pain-
ful reality: — no longer enchanted, he now finds himself,
while panting for breath, assailed by myriads of musqui-
tos, as large as bees, who, while they draw blood in every
direction, regale his ears with a delightful concert. He
struggles till exhausted nature can hold out no longer,
whenfalhng into a troubled sleep, with the enemy ranging,
without controul, over every part of his face, neck, hands,
&c., they leave him towards morning, a mass of pimples ;
his clothes covered with blood, and, if not extremely fortu-
nate, his eyes closed up into the bargain.

At length the dawn appears, and he sees the sun in a
clear unclouded sky, for all the world like a red-hot can-
non ball. The poor Griffin wakes, and his delusion re-
turns : the strange amusements of the past night are for-
gotten ; half a dozen obsequious domestics attend him ;
and he is clothed in fine linen, sits down to breakfast,
commences the pleasures of a new day, and the spell is not
soon broken ; unless indeed he should be ordered out for
morning drill, when Broion Bess and the Goose Step soon
dispel his airy visions ; but as I did not belong to the
Bengal Establishment, my delusion continued until I left
Calcutta. It was at first my intention to have attempted
some sketch of this wonderful city, the metropolis of the
East ; but recollecting that it has been previously de-
scribed by much abler pens, I shall confine myself to the
mere observation, that it is, of all the British settlements in
the East Indies, the one best calculated to attract the

1790,] reminis(:ences, 5

admiration and astonishment of" a stranger ; not less from
the nature of the country and the wonderful diversity and
manners of the different natives, than from the excessive
luxury and effeminacy which pervade the European com-
munity, and the regularity and beauty of the splendid
buildings. The climate is indeed particularly enervating- ;
which must be attributed to the lownessof the country, and
the mixture of saltpetre in the soil, all round Calcutta ; for
many other places, even fifteen or sixteen degrees nearer to
the line, are comparatively cool and salubrious.

MADRAS.
The anchor is down ; the ship surrounded by boats, and
catamorans, and all the passengers are eager to land, per-
ceiving a beautiful-looking fort, full of houses, about two
miles off, on the shore. The jolly Cadet is therefore, of
course, among the number who leap into a Massoulah
boat and make for the beach. Of all the perils encoun-
tered in a long East India voyage, the act of landing at
Madras is the greatest ; for there a tremendous surf, never
stilled, rolls along with a thundering sound, and no boat of
European construction could live in it for a minute. The
Massoulah boat, made of rude planks, sewn together with
coir rope, and in shape very much resembling a walnut-
shell, though perfectly inconsistent with European taste, is
so constructed, that, when struck by a surge, and even
dashed against the ground, it yields to the blow, spreads
out for a moment, and then resumes it's original shape,
without losing it's buoyancy. Yet even with such a con-
trivance, and aided by catamorans, or rafts, of two or more

6 MILITARY [A.D.

long misshapen logs of wood, firmly lashed together, on
which the fishermen brave the surf in all weathers, many
of them are annually swamped, and numerous lives lost, in
crossing this terrific barrier.

Once happily landed on a sandy beach, opposite the sea-
gate of the fort, then about 300 yards distant, but since
entirely covered to the ditch, from constant encroachments
of the ocean, the scene which follows is not very dissimilar
to that at Calcutta, saving in the appearance of the coun-
try. A palanquin is pressed upon the Griffin ; some dozens
of fellows take charge of his baggage, and it is ten to one
if he do not lose some part of his effects, ere he be fairly
set down again. The Custom-house, built of wood, being
at this time situated close to the landing-place, though
since washed away, every thing of course passed through
it into the fort.

It is by no means my intention to write a description of
Madras any more than of Calcutta, both places being
already too well known to require it. I shall therefore
say only that whilst climate, people, manners, houses,
living, &.C. differ very considerably, the first night-scene
at both places is unhappily quite the same; the mus-
quitos of each being similar in size, disposition, and
abilities. After sleeping, or rather struggling and rolling,
on the top of a billiard-table, for the first night, in Mr.
Hope's hotel* in the Fort, all the beds being pre-occupied,

* This Mr. William Hope was a merchant and shopkeeper at ^Madras,
and few men have ever left India with a fairer character, or a larger
fortune; few men, even in more elevated situations, did half the good
which this honest man did ; since he was as liberal and kind-hearted,
as he was modest and unassuming. He was a passenger in the fleet,

1790.] REMINISCENCES. 7

I found my way next morning to the garden-house of an
old friend of my father, who, with his lady, lived about
five miles off; and here, being most kindly welcomed, I took
up my abode till I was appointed to a corps up the
country.

The Madras army at this time consisted of two battalions
of artillery, four regiments of native cavalry, four European
regiments, and twelve or fourteen battalions of native
infantry, each commanded by a Captain. It was my lot
to be appointed to the 3d European regiment, then sta-
tioned at Vellore, ninety miles in the interior ; and this
corps I consequently joined, as an Ensign, on nineteen
pagodas a month, or 11. sterling in English currency.

VELLORE.
The Fort of Vellore, situated in a beautiful and most
fertile valley, nearly surrounded by hills, and in some de-
gree commanded by one, called Sazarow, of the nearest
three which are fortified and attached to it ; is one of the
prettiest and most perfect specimens of native masonry to
be met with in the East. It is about a mile in circum-
ference, nearly circular, with an exceedingly broad and
deep ditch, full of alligators, some of which are nearly
eighteen feet long. It is built entirely of stone, cemented
with chunam, a species of lime; a large fossebray encircles
the works, which, with the ramparts, are every where sur-
mounted with large blocks of granite, cut out to form the

with General Mac Dowall, in 1809, when he perished in the gale which
destroyed nearly a whole squadron oft' the Cape.

8 MILITARY [A.D.

parapet, and so firmly resting on their own bases as not to
require any kind of fastening. It is, I believe, very fully
described by the accurate Orme ; and the only difference
in the present day is, that all the native houses in the fort,
excepting the old Khelladar's, have been pulled down, and
good substantial English buildings substituted in their
places. There is an extensive pettah, which was originally
fortified, and a few garden-houses outside.

Although I am not writing a history, yet I cannot, even
at this distant period, revert to my first garrison, without
offering a brief tribute of affectionate and grateful remem-
brance to the memory of my earhest and best friend,
Ridgeway Mealy, then a Lieutenant and Adjutant of the
regiment to which I belonged ; who, on an introduction
from my friends at Madras, received me into his own
house, and became to me, in every sense of the word, a
second parent. To him I owe my early knowledge of my
duty as a soldier, of the Persian and Hindostanee lan-
guages, and, in short, whatever I acquired, was insti-
gated and even enforced by him. His kindness suffered no
abatement from a material change in his own state, when
he married an amiable young woman, left the regiment,
and was appointed to the public staff of the place ; and
though I had then my own quarters in the barracks, I
still continued to live with him, and found that I had, in re-
ality, gained another parent, in a lady very little older than
myself. My worthy friend lived to be a Lieutenant-colonel
only, and died at Nundydroog in the year 1807. I have
since many a time visited his grave, and, the place being
now abandoned, endeavoured to preserve it from neglect

1790.] REMINISCENCES. 9

and injury. When it is considered how much the tenor
of every man's future Ufe depends on his early habits and
associations, I trust I shall be excused for thus mentioning
the friend of my youth, more particularly as an European
regiment was not, at that time, the best school for either
industry, morals, or sobriety.

Having thus made my debut as a soldier on the Eastern
stage, it now becomes necessary to say something about
the state of affairs at that period. Tippoo Sultaun, sove-
reign of Mysore, a kingdom bordering on our possessions
on the coast of Coromandel, having, by a wanton and un-
provoked attack on the territories of the Rajah of Tra van-
core, brought on a war, in which the British were aided by
the Nizam, our armies had already taken the field, and
the principal one, under the personal command of General
Meddows, then Governor and Commander-in-chief of Ma-
dras, had advanced into the enemy's country, but did not
succeed in bringing him to action. Smaller divisions were
also advancing in other directions, and, in September 1790,
a very desperate battle w^as fought between Tippoo's army
and Colonel Floyd's detachment, at a place called Satti-
mungulum, in which, after a severe contest, the enemy were
completely defeated.*

* In this battle, as in several subsequent actions, the personal exer-
tions of Captain, afterwards Sir Thomas Dallas, of the Madras cavalry,
were most conspicuous ; and the safety of this detachment was greatly
attributed to him. Some months afterwards, he had the pleasure
of saving Colonel Floyd's life, when that gallant veteran, charging the
enemy's guns on the heights near Bangalore at the head of our ca-
valry, was shot in the mouth, and fell from his horse, at the moment
when, assailed by superior numbers, they were forced to retreat. Sir

10 MILITARY [A.D.

It was at this period that Lord Cornwallis, Governor-
general and Commander-in-chief in India, came round from
Bengal, accompanied by various reinforcements from that
Presidency, and, having joined our grand army, assumed
the supreme command. The Carnatic was also, at that
time, overrun with parties of the enemy's predatory horse,
called looties, and we had few troops any where to oppose
to them: but I now pass over all trifling occurrences
incidental to such a state of affairs, and at once proceed to
matters of more importance. The year 1791 teemed with
remarkable events, both in a political and military point of
view. The fort of Bangalore was breached and taken by
storm, by the British army under Lord Cornwallis ; while
Tippoo, at the head of a much more numerous army, was
looking on. The strong hill-forts of Nundydroog, Rya-
cottah, Dindigul, Sewandroog, &c. were also captured,
mostly by storm ; and Lord Cornwallis, gradually advan-
cing towards Seringapatam, and subduing all the inter-
mediate places, compelled the Sultaun to take shelter
under the very guns of that celebrated fort and capital.
Being myself appointed to a native corps, then with the

Thomas instantly dismounted, took him up in his arms, set him on an
orderly's horse, and, remounting his own charger, took the orderly
up behind him, and galloped off with the retreating column. Even this
timely and signal interposition might, however, have been of no avail,
had not our old and worthy friend. Major Francis Gowdie, advanced
with an infantry brigade, contrary to positive orders from Colonel
Floyd in the onset, and protected the cavalry from an overwhelming
force. For this truly gallant service, the Major was thanked by Lord
Cornwallis at the head of the army.

1793.] REMINISCENCES. U

grand army, I left Vellore in November, and, under the
escort of a strong reinforcement, joined Colonel Floyd.

On the 6th of February 1792, Lord Cornwallis stormed
Tippoo's fortified camp on the island of Seringapatam, and
gained a most complete and signal victory ; after which,
on our preparing to breach the place from our vantage
ground, the Sultaun sending out his two sons as hostages,
entreated for peace, and ceded considerable tracts of terri-
tory to the British and their allies, which put an end to
the war. The remainder of this year furnished nothing
worthy of particular notice ; the British troops returned
by different routes into the Carnatic, and the Nizam's army
to Hydrabad.

At the commencement of 1793, intelligence was received
that the French revolutionists had tried, condemned, and
executed the mild and pious Louis XVL, and such of his
family as they could lay hands upon, which led us to an-
ticipate a war with that country as an inevitable result :
and in June the news arrived at Madras of the actual de-
claration of war on the preceding 1 st of February ; when
extensive preparations were immediately made for attack-
ing Pondicherry, the principal French settlement in the
East. The native corps, to which I had been removed, on
my promotion to a Lieutenantcy, being then quartered at
Tanjore, we had the satisfaction to be selected, with others
from the same station, for that service.

PONDICHERRY.

The army at length assembled in the middle of July,
and encamped on the Red Hills, in the vicinity of the

12 MILITARY [A.D.

place. It was commanded by Colonel Brathwaite, and
amounted, in the aggregate, to twelve thousand men, with
a very large and efficient battering train. The town was
regularly summoned ; their helpless situation pointed out
to them, and favourable terms proposed for their accept-
ance ; but a positive and unqualified defiance being re-
turned, we accordingly broke ground ; and regular ap-
proaches were carried on under considerable obstruction
from the enemy's fire, and the state of the weather. Until
such time as our batteries were crowned, the French fired
with great smartness and accuracy from their guns and
mortars, kiUing and wounding eight officers, and about
five hundred men in the trenches ; the rain falling nearly
the whole time in torrents. Early in August, however, our
two batteries were completed ; the northern one to breach
the north face, and the western to enfilade the same, when
their guns, after a few discharges, silenced those in the
fort ; and on the 23d of August the place capitulated, to
the no small delight of the Governor, and all the respect-
able inhabitants, who had considerable difficulty in con-
veyin gtheir wishes to the British camp, and were opposed
in a tumultuous manner by the soldiery and lower orders.
After their vaunting defiance, it was natural to expect, on
it's surrender, to find a large and efficient garrison ; what
was our surprise, then, to discover only six hundred
European soldiers, and between two and three thousand
natives ; the former of whom were made prisoners of war,
whilst the latter disbanded without a murmur. Monsieur
Chermont, the governor, was a loyal subject of the old
school, as were most of the officers and gentlemen of the

1793.] REMINISCENCES. 13

place, who were all permitted to remain unmolested on
their parole.

The Fort of Pondicherry is situated on the sea-shore,
about one hundred miles south of Madras, and was at this
time one of the most beautiful and interesting places in all
India. In form it was an irregular polygon, of considerable
extent ; the works, constructed of mud, were in the nicest
order, with a good wide ditch, and they were not in want
of ordnance ; but a protracted siege must have ruined
most of the inhabitants, who possessed elegant houses,
towering in every direction above the ramparts : indeed,
tlie interior more resembled a town in Europe than the
inside of a fortress. The Governor's residence, in particu-
lar, was completely exposed, and every street contained
many large up-stair houses, equally liable to destruction.
About six miles to the northward was a small fortified
place on the mouth of a river, called Ariancopang, with a
capital high road and garden-houses on both sides leading
to it. To this place we conducted the sans culottes, where they
were confined in a large Church, and the adjacent build-
ings. There was likewise another excellent high road to the
westward, and several garden-houses in that direction also.
But a person now visiting Pondicherry, after a lapse of
thirty-six years, could hardly even trace the works, or find
any of those embellishments, within or without, which
once made it the finest settlement on the coast of Coro-
mandel. A large English garrison being left in the place,
the army returned to quarters early in September ; and
whilst the different corps composing that army are on
their march, I may as well, in a few words, introduce to
the reader's acquaintance.

14 MILITARY [A.D.

THE COMPANY'S NATIVE ARMY;
which, being composed of five distinct castes, or classes of
men, differing most essentially in manners, in religion, and
in customs ; who never unite, even at a meal, or in mar-
riage, the discipline and harmony which have ever dis-
tinguished those native forces are truly wonderful. The
more especially, when the bigotry of one class, and the
superstitious prejudices of three others, are taken into con-
sideration. But, in order to render these remarks intelli-
gible to those who have never visited India, it may be as
well to describe the different castes above alluded to.

First, the Mussulman, of whom at least one-third of
the army is composed. This class is again subdivided
into four particular sects ; viz. the Sheik, the Syed, the
Mogul, and the Puthaun, or Pattan, as they are usually
called. They are generally brave, enterprising, and intel-
ligent ; and upon the whole, being free from religious pre-
judices, make excellent soldiers.

Second, the Rajahpoot, or descendants of the ancient
Rajahs, the highest caste of Hindoos; a race not very nu-
merous, but extremely scrupulous; and, when their preju-
dices are humoured, the bravest and most devoted soldiers,
far surpassing all the other natives, in a romantic but
sometimes mistaken notion of honour.

Third, the Telinga or Gentoo, a race of Hindoos, gene-
rally remarkable for mildness of disposition and cleanliness
of person ; obedient and faithful, but not very intelligent
or enterprising soldiers.

Fourth, the Tamoul, or Malabar ; similar to the former.

Fifth, the Pariah, or Dhere, as they are called in the

1793.] REMINISCENCES. 15

army. The latter class, poor Chowry Mootoo, bravo, ac-
tive, and attached as they were to their officers and the
service, with a few European failings, such as dram drink-
ing, and eating unclean meats, &c. have of late years
been excluded from the line, in order the more fully to
conciliate the higher classes; who, however they may
differ from each other in many points, are all united in
considering any mixture with these as a contamination.
They are now enlisted only in the Pioneers, and as artillery
and tent Lascars, The former Corps, one of the most
useful in the army, is composed almost entirely of this
degraded class, than whom there exists not in all India, a
braver, more efficient, or zealous body of troops. I beg
it to be understood, however, that though the preceding
remarks are intended, in particular, for the Madras native
army, yet they are almost equally applicable to those of the
two other Presidencies.

At the time this Journal commences, whilst our four
European regiments were fully officered, each native bat-
talion of the same strength had a Captain commandant,
an European Adjutant, assistant-surgeon, and six or eight
subalterns attached to it; and the Captain, having more
power than a Lieutenant-colonel now possesses, and enjoy-
ing enormous allowances and immunities, it was con-
sidered a particular mark of favour, or good fortune, to
obtain the command of a native corps.

These troops, while they are the most orderly, tractable,
and willing soldiers in the world, have regularly advanced
in disciphne with their noble companions in his Majesty's
service, the King's regiments in India; and both have

16 MILITARY [A.D.

gone hand in hand to subdue every foe who has dared to
oppose them. I need scarcely add, that the native forces
in India are now completely and permanently officered ;
and that those of the Madras establishment at present
amount to eight regiments of cavalry, and fifty-two of
infantry; though certainly, the greatest improvement
which the native service has experienced, is the regulation
which obhges every European officer to study the native
languages, and which excludes from regimental staff ap-
pointments all officers who cannot pass an examination in
some native language.

TANJORE.
Our troops being returned to Tanjore, 1 have now
leisure to say something about that kingdom; a Mah-
rattah principality, situated in the very heart of the Car-
natic, composed of a people whose manners, religion, and
language, differ almost equally essentially from the original
natives, and their Mussulman conquerors, whose states
entirely surround them. The kingdom of Tanjore is not
very extensive ; but being remarkably well supplied with
water, it's fertility and beauty have justly obtained for it
the title of " the Garden of the Carnatic." The capital,
from whence the country is named, is composed of two
strong stone forts, adjoining each other on a plain, and
each containing several lofty Hindoo Pagodas, the like of
which are no where to be met with in the Mahrattah em-
pire. The large fort, being about four miles in circum-
ference, contained the Rajah's palace, and the houses of all
the grandees and principal men of his court ; and at this

1793.] REMINISCENCES. 17

time also included barracks and public buildings for two
corps of native soldiers. The smaller fort was not more
than a mile in circumference, and contained magazines,
barracks for an European regiment, store-rooms, main and
other guard rooms, a Church, and a fives court, and wan
given up entirely and exclusively to the English. The
works of both, though irregular, are strong, and well
built of stone, with a wide and deep ditch, full of alli-
gators, a good fossebray, many large cavaliers, and on
one, a remarkable Malabar gun made of bars of iron
hooped over, the bore of which was upwards of two feet in
diameter. The English had several garden-houses out-
side, and the garrison enjoyed the pleasure and variety of
shooting and hunting-parties, in all directions, without
any controul ; whilst the vicinity of Trichinopoly, being-
only thirty miles distant, gave us opportunities of visiting
our friends there, and of occasionally meeting them in our
excursions.

TRICHINOPOLY.
This place, so famous in eastern history, was garrisoned
by one European and two native regiments, with some
artillery ; it was then the capital of a district, and being
now the head quarters of the southern division of the
army, has always been a dehghtful station. The fort, an
oblong square, about three miles in circumference, is built
of stone, upon a plain, in a most fertile valley, and con-
tains a rocky hill of considerable height and dimensions
within it's walls. On the summit of the rock is the palace
of the Nabob of the Carnatic, to whom, in days of yore,

VOL. I. c

18 MILITARY [A.D.

the whole country belonged, and in which some of his
relations always resided. There are many good houses
and public buildings inside; but cantonments have been
built about three miles outside, for all the troops, except-
ing those on immediate duty. The ditch of this place
also contains alligators ; and they are to be met with, not
only in the adjacent river, but in every tank in the neigh-
bourhood. Having, in so short a space, mentioned three
places infested by these amphibious monsters, I must add,
that I have never met with them in the ditch of any other
place of consequence in the country.

The Cauvery river, which is here some hundred yards
broad, runs within half a mile of the north face of the
fort, and separates it from the far-famed Pagodas of
Seringham and Jumboo Kistnah, so long used as posts
by the French and Mysoreans, in 1751 and 1752. Ser-
ingham is situated on an island in the river, of consider-
able extent, on which are also to be found the remains of
some unfinished Pagodas, and ruins of others of enormous
dimensions. It is in many parts covered with deep jungle,
abounding with game of every description, from the tiger
to the quail ; indeed, at that time, it was by far the most
productive spot in the Carnatic, and was therefore con-
stantly resorted to by all sportsmen. This being also a
capital civil station, there are many delightful garden-
houses outside, and the finest fruit and vegetables in the
Carnatic are to be found there.

The year 1794 produced nothing of a public nature
worth recording; but, amongst other excursions, having
visited Negapatam, I may as well make some mention of
it here.

1794.] REMINISCENCES. 19

NEGAPATAM,
The principal settlement of the Dutch, on the Coro-
mandel coast, is situated on the sea shore, about one
hundred miles south of Pondicherry, and sixty east of
Tanjore. It was formerly a place of consequence, and
carried on a considerable trade both with Europe and
other parts of India, particularly to the eastward, but was
then on the decline. Of the fort itself, only some enor-
mous misshapen masses of masonry remained, to point out
where it had once stood, and how strong the works must
have been, before they were destroyed by the English.
The town, though partly deserted, was still a very neat
one, containing several wide streets, with substantial
houses on both sides, in which all the remaining inhabi-
tants resided, amongst whom were some respectable
families ; and as every article of life was comparatively
reasonable, they still contrived, with hardly any external
intercourse, to spin out a dull and peaceful existence, en-
joying their pipe and dram, without even enquiring what
was going forward in the surrounding world. If their
countrymen in Europe are styled phlegmatic, what term
can be applicable to their still more apathetic oriental
brethren? I have met with many, but only in their own
homes, who boasted that they had been thirty or forty
years in the same house, and never went outside of the
place they were living in ! They never complain, or en-
quire how others get on ; and as long as the mere neces-
saries of life are to be procured, they are contented.

Having suffered from an attack of liver complaint, I

20 MILITARV [A.D.

left Tanjore in July this year, and went, on leave, to Cal-
cutta, via Madras; there became a Benedict, and returned
early in 1795 ; when, being removed to a corps at Madura,
I joined accordingly, via Tranquebar and Tanjore.

MADURA,
Formerly the capital of an extensive and wealthy king-
dom, but now only the head-quarters of a district, is si-
tuated on a level and well-cultivated plain, through which
a broad river and several lesser streams, constantly mean-
dering, insure it's fertility. It is about eighty miles south
of Trichinopoly, and nearly the same distance from Tanjore.
The walls of the city, nearly three miles in extent, and built
of stone, with a broad and deep ditch, are now quite out of
repair, and could never have been deemed strong ; but the
remains of some of the most elegant and durable specimens
of Indian architecture are to be met with in this place ;
particularly the ruins of Trimulnaig's palace, and his thou-
sand-pillared choultry. The hand of time, and the more
destructive paws of mischievous man, have in vain combined
to destroy these inestimable vestiges of former science and
grandeur. Whole apartments, and parts of others, particu-
larly arched roofs of various dimensions, composed of brick
and chunam, now one inseparable mass, have withstood
every wanton effort to destroy them ; and, in many places,
where such roofs have been originally supported by wooden
pillars, large beams and frame-work, the more perishable
parts have been extracted or laboriously dug out and re-
moved, without at all injuring the more permanent ma-
sonry : whilst even some few traces arc still to be found of

M ^-

k i^ ^

1795.] REMINISCENCES. 23

various coloured stucco, or fine chunam, with which the
whole had been faced and finished. There were also se-
veral large and elegant Pagodas in perfect repair, which
were maintained, at the Company's expense, in great splen-
dour. One alone, at a great distance from the rest, having
been formerly polluted by Europeans, by being used as a
magazine, remained unattended and unoccupied, and served
as a gateway to a gentleman's compound. The garrison
at this time consisted of one native corps, which had bar-
racks and houses in the fort ; and of a king's regiment,
cantoned near Secundermally, a famous hill about five
miles to the southward. The comm.anding officer* had
an elegant house near the centre, considerably raised
from the ground, with a capital garden attached to it ;
the Paymaster lived in a very roomy building, of eastern
architecture, about two miles to the northward, across
the river, called Fort Defiance. Captain John Bannerman,
commanding our corps, resided in a delightful bungalow.

* Friends of my youth ! how can I mention the place where you
presided, the house in which you dwelt, and pass over in silence the
kind and hospitable proprietors? A mistaken idea regarding the deli-
cacy of mentioning a family, some members of which are still in exist-
ence, led me, in the first instance, to omit the name of Major Francis
Gowdie, then Commander of Madura. He was the father of his little
community, and his lady, our kind and affectionate mother. I dare not
say more ; their house was open to all their children ; and many, many a
happy hour have we spent therein. Kind and considerate to all, theii
friendship was particularly enjoyed by a young couple, from that time,
through the various vicissitudes of an Indian life ; nor diminished by
the senior becoming Commander in chief. He died many years ago, in
Scotland, but his memory is still most affectionately cherished in their
hearts.

24 MILITARY [A.D.

about two miles to the eastward, on the bank of a beau-
tiful stone tank, with an island and pagoda in the centre,
called Teppoocolon ; and there was a very extraordinary
and picturesque rocky hill, about three miles beyond Fort
Defiance, called Aneemallee, from it's resemblance to a
crouching elephant. A good road led to Secundermallee,
and a large avenue to Teppoocolon.

Secundermallee, a mountain held sacred by all castes,
as supposed to contain the tomb of Alexander the Great,
has a temple on it's summit, the pavement of which is said
to be regularly swept by royal tigers with their tails. There
is a beautiful little spring near it, full of small fish ; and
rude steps have been made for foot-passengers from top
to bottom, some hundred yards in length. The canton-
ment was formed close to the base to the westward, but
was abandoned the next year, and not a vestige of it now
remains. The hill being very rugged and woody, certainly
gave some shadow of foundation for the native report of
it's savage attendants ; and I have since actually hunted
tigers on the very spot. In those early times, when hospi-
tality and good-fellowship reigned in the East, a constant
intercourse was kept up between the different members
of this scattered society ; though the heat was always so
great, that many suffered from a too constant exposure to
it's influence.

A war breaking out with the Dutch, and an expedition
being meditated against their possessions on the island of
Ceylon, I was, towards the end of this year, detached to
the sea coast to make fascines and gabions to carry with
us. This led to an acquaintance with —

1795.] REMINISCKNCF.S. 25

RAMNAD,
The capital of a district. This fort, which then belong-
ed to the Nabob of Arcot, lies about sixty miles to
the south-eastward of Madura, and ten or twelve from the
sea shore. The walls were of brick, and had some ditches,
but it is not very extensive, and was never a formidable
place : indeed it is only interesting to Indians, as having
been, for upwards of thirty years, the residence of Colonel
Martinz, of the Nabob's service ; who commanded the
place, as well as a regularly disciplined provincial batta-
lion, bearing his own name.

Of all the hospitable men in the most hospitable country in
the world, this extraordinary old gentleman stood foremost.
He had a large well-furnished house, and received with a
hearty welcome as liis guests, all who chose to come to it.
He had a cellar, or go-down, as it is there styled, full of the
choicest liquors, and amongst the rest, pipes of Madeira
of various ages, slung by ropes from the roof, to which he
decreed an" Europe voyage" as he called it, every time the
door was opened, by making a servant swing them about
for some minutes. His wine was never fined, and seldom
bottled, but drawn for immediate use. He was a man of
few words, and directed his servants, by snapping his fin-
gers, or by whistling. A native of Savoy, or Portugal, of
a diminutive form, being under the middle size, with a vis-
age more resembling a baboon than the human species,
and manners the most uncouth and outre, Colonel Martinz
was still the father of his corps, and the kind friend of all
his little community ; and, to sum up his character in a

26 MILITARY [A.D.

few words, was generally known, much beloved, and wanted
only the outward forms of religion, to be universally re-
spected and esteemed. Passing through this place to the
sea coast, and having completed our task at Altangary, the
detachment returned to Madura ; and at the same time a
force, sailing from Madras, attacked and captured Trinco-
mallee, after a few days' skirmishing.

TRINCOMALLEE.
The harbour of Trincomallee, situated near the nortli-
eastern extremity of the island of Ceylon, is one of the best
in India ; it was defended by numerous works, and might
have given us much trouble to take it, but fortunately the
garrison were mostly quiet merchants and mechanics, who,
by a protracted defence, would have hazarded their all for
the bubble reputation, and therefore very speedily surren-
dered. The troops destined for the conquest of the Dutch
possessions on the western shore of the island, then assem-
bled at Ramiserara, in January 1796, consisting of three
European, and five native corps, under the command of
Colonel Stewart*, of his Majesty's 72d regiment.

RAMISERAM.
This island, about ten or twelve miles long, and
half that breadth, and which is situated at the head of the

* Colonel Stewart was a very old and experienced officer, well known,
and at that time much liked by the Madras army ; he went by the fami-
liar appellation of Old Row. Relieved from the government of Ceylon,
he afterwards became Commander in chief at Madras, and returned to
Europe in 1808.

1796.] REMINISCENCliS. 27

<yulph of Manaar, is separated from the main land of the
peninsula, by a narrow ferry, and from Ceylon, by Adam's
bridge and the island of Manaar. It's Pagodas, celebrated
all over India for their sanctity, are at the eastern end of
the island ; they are lofty, and in good repair, though of
great antiquity. The Brahmins have a neat little village
in the neighbourhood, and there is a fine square stone tank,
with a small island in the centre, luring the unwary to de-
struction, for it's approach appearsclear of all impediments.
I had swam across to look at it's images, and returning,
carelessly allowed my legs to sink beneath me, when they
were immediately entangled in weeds, which pulled me
under vv^ater two or three times ; until, at length, I tore
them up from the bottom in the struggle, and reached the
bank with great difficulty, dragging behind me several thin
cords of many feet in length. Although it is not very
likely that any of my readers may have occasion to try the
same experiment, yet I could not resist the temptation of
holding out a warning to those who might be led into a
similar danger, through similar inadvertency.

Here, on very good ground, the troops were encamped as
they arrived ; and about the 10th of January we took our
final departure, in large open boats ; crossing under the
bridge, as it is called, we coasted along, by Arepoo, Calpen-
teen. Sec, running on shore every evening, to cook and eat
our diurnal meal, and sleep on the beach ; but without
any shelter from the weather, which being particu-
larly inclement, we generally had our clothes wet through
all night, and dried during the day upon our bodies : ex-
periencing both extremes, in the course of the twenty-four

28 MILITARY [A.D.

hours. Our first rendezvous was Negumbo, about thirty
miles north of Cohimbo, then in the enemy's possession. Our
flotilla being drawn up in order, a landing was effected, and
we found the works abandoned without resistance.
Here, then, we landed our stores, camp-equipage, &c., as
also the fascines and gabions we had made, under the
erroneous impression that we were not likely to find ma-
terials in Ceylon, the best wooded country in the world ;
and I may as well anticipate the catastrophe, by remark-
ing, that they were afterwards all served out to the Bom-
bay Grenadier battalion, at Columbo, for firewood ! the
useless cost and labour being carried to the account of
experience and geographical knowledge. Leaving our
boats to carry on the heavy articles, for which cattle could
not be procured, the army marched by land, and arrived
within four miles of Columbo, without meeting the slightest
resistance, as it was not until after we had crossed a broad
and rapid river, that the enemy attempted to impede our
approach.

COLUMBO.
Advancing at daylight, we crossed the great ferry, called
Grand Pass, and forming on the other side, moved on,
uncertain what reception we were likely to experience,
when all of a sudden a peal of musquetry, and shower of
balls, arrested our attention. A body of eight hundred or
one thousand Malays, followed by Dutch troops, gave us
this salutation, which being returned with interest, they
immediately took to flight, leaving, amongst others, a
Colonel mortally wounded on the ground. His remains

isbed bv Sii-iih.I-Uer & C 6J,Ccnn.l:

179(J.] FiKMlNISCKNCES. 29

were interred with military honours, and we took up our
ahnost peaceable abode in the pettah and environs, about
two o'clock the next day: havino;, however, had a most
ridiculous alarm during the night, which terminated fa-
tally for one of our comrades. Being with the advance, I
was posted in a thick grove, with one of the picquets for
the night ; the next party to us was furnished by the
Bombay grenadier battalion, in similar ground. All the
sentries were loaded, and told to challenge distinctly any
one who approached them ; and, if not satisfactorily an-
swered, to fire at the object. The night was dark, and
all had remained still, till towards morning, when sud-
denly, " Who comes there ?" was bellowed out from the
Bombay post, and immediately after the report of two
musquets, followed by others, resounded through the
grove. " Fall in ! fall in ! prime and load !" followed on
our part, to which a dead silence ensued ; and then one of
those uncertain pauses, the most trying to the nerves and
patience of a soldier. Matters remaining in this state for
some time, we ventured to enquire what had occurred to
our comrades on the right, and found that a buffalo had
suddenly advanced on two drowsy Ducks,* and, not having
the countersign, was immediately fired at ; the remainder

* The Bombay army are generally designated " Ducks," perhaps from
their Presidency being situated on a small island. The Bengalees are
denominated " Qui hies," from a habit of exclaiming " koei/ /ii/eV " who
is there ?" to their domestics, when requiring their attendance ; and the
the Madrasees are designated by the appellation of " Mulls," from the
the circumstance of always using a kind of hot soup, ycleped Mul-
ligatawny, literally pepper water, at their meals, particularly supper.

30 MILITARY [A.D.

of the picquet turning out, loaded their pieces, and also
commenced firing, when a shot from a better marksman
than the rest killed one of our own sentries, and was even
fired so close to him, as actually to blow away a part of
the poor fellow's mouth. The fact was, that drowsiness
had obtained such complete possession of the guard, that
on their being thus suddenly wakened, they were quite
unable to recognize each other in the dark.

Negociations having commenced between Colonel Ste-
wart and the Dutch Governor-general, Van Angleback, we
remained inactive for a few days ; when, on the 16th of
February, the whole of their possessions on the island
were ceded to us by capitulation, in trust for the Prince of
Orange, and the fort was instantly taken possession of by
our troops in his name ; our corps, the 9th battalion of
Native infantry, being detached to Point de Galle, sixty
miles south, to receive charge of, and garrison that fortress.

Columbo, the capital of the Dutch on Ceylon, is a place
of considerable consequence and strength, from it's na-
tural position, as well as from it's works, which were nu-
merous and in good condition. The fort, which is exten-
sive, contained many capital dwelling houses, including
the Governor's palace, which is a most superb building.
The pettah had also several good houses, churches, &c.,
in it ; and in the place, altogether, were many respectable
inhabitants. Without a chance of relief, it would have
been madness to have held out ; and by an early capitu-
lation, private property was not only preserved, but all
the different public servants obtained pensions from our

179().] REMINISCENCES. 31

government. Columbo is also a place of great traffic by
sea ; the road-stead being extremely safe and commodious,
particularly during the north-eastern monsoons.

But of all the novelties which then presented them-
selves to our view, the Cinnamon gardens attracted our
earliest attention, though that plant is now common
nearly all over India ; and many were the good trees, cut
down for walking-sticks, as well as to secure the bark,
without consideration of the serious injury thus done to
the future produce. No sooner were the English pro-
claimed in authority, and installed in quiet possession of
some of the permanent dwellings in the place, than mer-
chants and hawkers of all descriptions, came pouring in
with their goods ; amongst which were a great variety of
precious stones, some richly set in gold, and offered for
very moderate prices, whilst all were declared, mirabik
dicta ! to be the veritable produce of this Hindoo Para-
dise ; — diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, amethysts,
topazes, cat's-eyes, and cinnamon stones, the two latter,
I believe, being almost exclusively to be found on this
island. Then, in the cabinet way, small boxes of various
forms made of tortoise-shell, calamander, reemhout, ebony,
and satin wood, all equally new to us, as they were really
very beautifully finished ; whilst even the vendors them-
selves were subjects of equal wonder and amazement to
us, so materially did they differ from all the natives of the
continent. The principal native merchants in Ceylon, are
Lubbies, a degenerate race of Mussulmans, and Chingalese,
the aborigines of the country ; whilst, strange to say, Hin-
dostanee is Greek even to the former, who generally

MILITARY

[A.D.

speak a corrupt Malabar, or Arawee ; so that we had a
new language to learn.

CALTURA.

Our first march was to Caltura, twenty-eight miles from
Columbo ; the road, which is generally close to the sea-
shore, being broad and well shaded by cocoa-nut and
cashew trees ; and, having crossed abroad, deep and rapid
river in boats, we relieved the garrison of this romantic and
interesting spot. The fort, built upon a small hill on the
southern bank, which commands the ferry and all the ad-
jacent country, is a beautiful little post, and in excellent
repair. The town itself, having the Government-house at
the extremity next the fort, is about half a mile from it,
and contains many neat and comfortable dwellings, with
a few respectable resident Dutch famihes ; whilst, further
up the river, are some of the most lovely plantations to be
met with in any part of the world. Our next march was

1796.] , REMINISCENCES. 33

to Bentott ; thence to Billitott ; and on the 22ad we reuch-
ed Point de Galle.

My first Journals, containuig the details of this march,
were unfortunately lost in after-times ; and I have, tliere-
fore, now nothing but my recollection to depend upon, for
memoranda of Ceylon. After returning to Madura, and
bringing my flxraily a distance of five hundred miles over
land, I was at first appointed to command Caltura, but
Major Agnew, then Adjutant-general in Ceylon, most
kindly and strongly recommending me to Colonel Stewart,
I was speedily made Fort-adjutant and Paymaster of
Point de Galle, to which place 1 consequently returned
early in October.

34 MII.ITARY [A.D.

CHAPTER II.

Point de Guile — Singtdar instances of National Revenge — Madura —
Dreadful Climate of Masulipatam — Pallamcottah — Cascades of
Papanassum and Coiirtalluni — Tutacorine — the Poligar War —
Skirmish at Pelhavunthally — Piinjalumcoorchy — Failure of the first
Assault — Siege and Capture.

POINT DE GALLE.
The fort of Galle, sixty miles south of Columbo, built on
a rocky point of land, forming the northern boundary of a
good harbour, about five miles in circumference, which it
completely commands, is a place of considerable extent, and
the fortifications were then in a state of complete repair.
Like Columbo, it was crowded with capital and substantial
buildings, and had a Governor's palace, and Commandant's
quarters, into the bargain. Being surrounded on three
sides by the sea, the strongest works were, of course, on
the land side, which is unluckily commanded by an ex-
tensive woody hill, within breaching distance. It con-
tained many very respectable families, and a garrison, the
native part of which was disbanded, and the Europeans
pensioned. The Governor, Mr. Fretz, a man of rank and
education, delivered up the place immediately, and was
permitted, pro tempore, to retain the Government-house,
in which he gave all the English officers a grand dinner
the first day. The utmost cordiality subsisted between us
from the very first, and the English and Dutch speedily
became one community. The harbour is large and

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1796.] RLMINISCENCES, 35

commodious^ and ships of from six to eiglit hundred
tons* may enter and He there in perfect safety, for about
eight months in the year: though the south-western
monsoon driving in a long swell renders it extremely
dangerous at that season, when the waves rapidly rise
and fall from ten to twelve feet ; and though a vessel
might be generally in deep enough water there, yet from
the sudden rising, and, consequently, falling of the sea,
the situation of any ship then at anchor, must be particu-
larly perilous.

As the road for the whole way from Columbo is excel-
lent, so is the one nearly all round this harbour on the
sea-beach, which is peculiarl}' firm at low water ; and there
are some pleasant garden-houses close to the road in the
circle. The climate is delightful, and here my remarks
on the temperature of Calcutta are particularly verified ;
since though within six degrees of the line, Point de Galle,
excepting in the months of December and January, is con-
siderably cooler the whole year round, than Calcutta in
twenty-one. The country in the neighbourhood is beau-
tifully diversified by hill and dale, and wood and water ;
and there are several sm^all posts in the interior, to which
we resorted on parties of pleasure, generally in boats, by
means of a lake and rivulet flowing through it.

On the opposite side of the harbour also was a watering-
place, to which we used to sail across, on shooting and
fishing excursions ; it was not accessible by land, having

* In the year 1797, two large Indiamen, fully laden, were brought in
to be protected from Sercey's squadron, and subsequently many ships
of similar burthen entered in perfect safety.

36 MILITARY [A.D.

high vvoody mountains in the back ground ; and in this
low spot, a fine clear spring in the sand furnishes water
for all the ships which require it.

During the occupancy of the Dutch, Point de Galle had
been the capital of a district, having several inferior de-
pendencies, where petty chiefs exercised an arbitrary con-
troul, apparently little subject to superior authority ; such
an inference may, at least be fairly drawn from the fol-
lowing tragic incident, which happened immediately after
we had taken possession of the island.

A Mr. Van Schooler of the Dutch Civil service, was
chief of Matura, about thirty miles south east of Point de
Galle, and had the character of being a very cruel and un-
kind ruler ; — amongst many other acts of oppression laid
to his charge, he was accused of having ordered an aged
Malay domestic to be tied up and flogged to death.
Whether the infliction was excessive, or whether he was at
all aware of the probable result, I could never learn ; but
the plain fact that the poor old man perished under the
lash was undisputed ; leaving a son, a powerful young
man, in his murderer's service. This gentleman, being re-
lieved by an officer of our corps at Matura, returned with
his family to Point de Galle, where he possessed a delight-
ful garden-house, and every comfort which riches could
procure : and being a man of respectable family, and well
connected, he had married a lady of considerable personal
charms, who, unlike himself, bore a most excellent character,
and was much esteemed by both Europeans and natives.

A point of honour among the Malays, too little attended
to or understood, is revenge for every injury or insult.

1796.] REMINISCENCKS. 37

imaginary or real, and always sought in a manner which
leaves the object little or no chance of escape : but in
painting the character of the drover Robin Aig, Sir Walter
Scott has described the Malay so fully to the life, I need
only refer to that inimitable author for a perfect illustration.

The extinction of the Dutch power in Ceylon, and per-
haps a very erroneous notion of our criminal jurisdiction,
induced the Malays to consider this as a favourable op-
portunity for carrying into effect their summary applica-
tion of the Lex talionis. Among the principal native in-
habitants at Galle, resided a man called Noor John, the
Prince of the Malays, to whom all the rest looked up, and
who was much respected by the Dutch government. This
man, getting hold of Mr. Van Schooler's Malay servants,
insisted on their taking vengeance for the death of the
old man ; and the more to encourage the son to perpetrate
the deed, while the rest were to connive at it, and protect
him from without, he gave him his own creese, or dagger.
The young man, whose name was Gabong, readily agreed ;
and they proceeded together to the house, where Gaboo,
the confidential slave of Mr. Van Schooler, opened the
door for them, and secreted Gabong under his master's
bed.

The lady and gentleman retired to rest as usual, and
being more than ordinarily drowsy, he almost immedi-
ately fell fast asleep. Mrs, Van Schooler sat up reading
her Bible for some time^ and then prepared to follow him.
She was in her seventh month of pregnancy, and, like
many mothers in the same state, was under considerable
anxietv of mind, imagining (hat she should not survive

38 MILITARY [A,D.

her confinement. She laid down, and was just falhng-
asleep, when she was awakened by something moving un-
der the bed ; she immediately awoke her husband, told him
what she had felt, and entreated him to get up and look
there ; but no entreaties could induce him to shake off his
drowsy fit; he grumbled, and immediately slept again.
Overcome with fatigue, she had at length fallen into an
uneasy slumber, when, roused by a deep groan she opened
her eyes, to behold her husband weltering in his blood,
and a man standing beside him with a creese in his hand.
Regardless of all personal danger, but intent on saving
her husband, this devoted wife sprang from the bed, ran
round to the other side, and immediately seized the mur-
derer by the hair. He struggled to get away, but twisting
the locks round her hands, she persisted in holding him, and
calling loudly for assistance. In this manner he dragged
her to the door, when, turning about, he said, " Let me go,
madam, I do not wish to hurt you ;" but she screamed,
and prevented his departure by main strength, until at
length he turned round and stabbed her in the stomach.
She fell, and he escaped. How long this unfortunate pair
continued without assistance, was never exactly known; but
the next day, they were found by our medical men, who
had been called in, both lying in the same room, in which
the husband shortly afterwards expired, and was carried
out, when she waved her hand towards him, and said she
should soon follow. The wound in her stomach was sewed
up, and for some days hopes were entertained of her re-
covery; while in the mean time every exertion was made to
trace the murderer, and the servants of the house being

1 i

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1796.] REMINISCENCES. 39

confined on suspicion, Gaboo volunteered a confession. It
would appear that the murderer, Gabong, had been turned
off" previously, and immediately after the perpetration of
the bloody deed, had absconded. He was, however,
speedily apprehended, and brought back a prisoner, though
then having very short hair, it was feared that he was not
the man. Being, however, along with several others, who
had been confined on suspicion, brought into the room
where his victims lay, Mrs. Van S. immediately pointed him
out, and made oath to his indentity. Still he asserted that
she was mistaken, when solemnly, and with a firm voice,
she exclaimed, — "No, Gabong! you cannot deceive me,
although you have had your hair cut off" since. I am now
on the brink of eternity, and I swear, that this man is the
murderer of my husband." She lived but to secure the
conviction of the murderer, and her unborn child perished
with her.

The traitor Gaboo turning king's evidence, the rest were
tried, and Ts^oor John and Gabong found guilty, and sen-
tenced to be hanged : which sentence requiring the con-
firmation of General Stewart, the EngUsh Governor at
Columbo, great interest was made by both the Dutch
governors for the Prince's life, but in vain ; a feeling of
great anxiety being evinced by the whole of the Dutch
community, to have a public execution of both the cri-
minals. They had their wish, as soon as an answer could
be received ; and both prisoners were hanged on two gib-
bets erected in front of the garden, where the deed was
perpetrated, in the presence of all the men and most of the
women of the place ; many Dutch ladies of respectability

40 MILITARY [A.D.

being seen in the foremost ranks of spectators, exulting in
the agonies of the poor mistaken wretches, who were thus
hurried into eternity. The Prince died hardened in his
guilt, and not only refused all ghostly advice or assistance,
but even kicked a Malay priest out of his cell ; and in-
sisted, that in hanging him for only aiding a fellow-
creature in his just revenge, the English Vv'ould be answer-
able for all the sins he had ever committed during his life.
He was a remarkably handsome, active young man, and
his dying struggles lasted for several minutes. Gabong,
on the other hand, received the same priest with mildness,
even acknowledged his error, prayed to Heaven for for-
giveness, and died without a struggle.

Here, as a contrast to the foregoing tale, I cannot help
relating a similar occurrence, which terminated in a very
different manner. In a part of the suburbs, very little re-
moved from the garden-house in question, there resided
two Dutcli boors ; the one a cadaverous-looking monster,
about forty years of age, and the other a fine, healthy,
cheerful young man. They were near neighbours, apparent
friends, and both carried on the same trade, of retail
venders of hollands and other spirituous liquors, — "Hinc
illcE lachrijmcRy A party of the Royal Artillery had ac-
companied us to Galle, and our soldiers had found out
these enticing, welcome-giving landlords ; and whether it
was that the young man sold the cheapest liquors, or that
John Bull preferred the company of an Adonis to that of
Beelzebub, I could not rightly ascertain ; but certes, the
youno-est dealer, in a few days, had all the custom. It
was a warm evening, in the month of April, when several

1796.] RKMINISCENCES. 41

of our soldiers had assembled, to cool themselves vvitli a
refreshmg draught, at the house of the junior retailer ;
when, to their astonishment, the elder came in, and with
apparent good humour partook of their fare. Although
fond of good liquor, in moderation, our men were by no
means drunkards, and at the usual hour they retired, leav-
ing the two rival innkeepers together. At midnight a
most dismal hue and cry brought a crowd to the house in
question, when the landlord was found extended on the
floor, stabbed to the heart, and perfectly dead. A long
sharp-pointed knife was found near the body, still reeking
with his blood. An instant search was made; and, crouch-
ing in a corner of the next room. Van Beelzebub was
found. Dragged forth to the light, and charged with the
crime, he solemnly protested his innocence ; but was
thrown into prison, and tried for murder. This, however,
did not take place till the men who possessed the presump-
tive proofs I have m^entioned had quitted the island ;
and the only evidence to the fact was a little girl, the
orphan daughter of the deceased, who distinctly stated
that she first saw the monster sitting behind her father,
drinking, and then saw him strike a blow from behind,
which laid her parent Hfeless at his feet; on which she ran
out, screaming for assistance. The knife, I think, was
also proved to be his property ; but the girl being under
age, the evidence was declared faulty ; and at the same
time that the two mistaken heathens paid, with their lives,
the forfeit for a breach of our law, this nominal christian,
this monster, who, without even the horribly palliating
circumstances whicli tiiey could plead, had in cold blood

42 MILITARY [A.D.

stabbed a fellow-creature to the heart, was acquitted, and
set loose again to repeat his crimes. I need scarcely add,
that although the law had released him, he was ever
after held in utter detestation by all ranks ; and had he
not enjoyed a small pension, as a prisoner of war, must
have actually starved.

MATURA,
Situated on the bank of a fine river, about thirty-two miles
nearly east from Point de Galle, and four miles west from
Dunder Head, is a most romantic spot. The town is on
the eastern side, having a very pretty little star fort on the
western bank of the river, with a wooden bridge across,
and a Redan* to cover the town ; these two works forming
an admirable tke de pont. The Government house, as in
all these stations, is a very excellent one ; and there were
several others in good repair, as well as a few delightful
plantations up the river. This out-of-the-way place pro-
duces some of the finest kinds of fruit on the island, par-
ticularly oranges and plantains, which are sent in abund-
ance even to Columbo. Of the latter there is a great
variety of species, some of which very much resemble a
winter pear in taste ; and a small hill mango of exquisite
flavour, not larger than a gooseberry. In the vicinity of
Matura numerous elephants are annually taken, by being
decoyed into an extensive and massy trap, called a Kraale ;
and all the country round abounds in wild game, f

* A military term for a particular out-work,

t In this neighbourhood I had a most providential escape from two
wild buffalos. I was out snipe-shooting, when I saw them tearing along

1799.] REMINISCENCES. 43

At Dunder Head there is an old Hindoo temple, and
the remains of an extensive stone-pillared choultry ; but
all the Chingalese are Boodists, having the image in a
large building, like our bungalows.

MASULIPATAM.
Having remained at Point de Galle for three years,
early in 1799 it was my unhappy lot to be appointed
Fort-adjutant and Postmaster at Masulipatam, a place far
exceeding Calcutta in heat, without any of it's counter-
balancing advantages. Of all the semi-infernal stations
in the East Indies, the interior of this fort is the most
tiying to an European constitution. Erected on a low
sandy swamp, and having one face washed by a branch of
the Kistnah river, it is exactly ten degrees and a half more
to the northward than Point de Galle, and three more than
Madras. The vicinity to the sea might also have been
expected to do something towards cooling the air, but the
nature of the soil completely counteracts it's balmy effects,
and the inhabitants, both inside and out, are in a continual
stew from one end of the year to the other. The soldier's
usual description is, indeed, extremely apposite ; that
*' there is only a sheet of brown paper between it and
Pandemonium !"

towards me; but happily, terror lent me presence of mind enough to
force myself through a very thick hedge, and lie down on the other side,
where they passed me at full speed, and I saw no more of them. I
have, more than, once, with ball from a double-barrelled gun, brought
down a wild bull with each barrel ; but then I was prepared ; and the
bull cannot be compared with the buffalo, for either strength or fierce-
ness.

44 MILITARY [A.D.

The fort is an extensive irregular polygon, with large
bastions, and a wide and deep ditch. The works, built of
brick, were in excellent repair. An European regiment
occupied the barracks, and three native corps were can-
toned outside, in the Pettah, which is very extensive, and
about a mile and a half in the interior ; the communica-
tion being over a dreary swamp, now dried up, on which
neither tree nor shrub could exist. It being a place of
much consequence, and the head-quarters of the northern
division, many excellent garden-houses have been built at
a distance of two and three miles from the fort, in which
all the division staff and civilians resided; but even there,
the sand rendered visiting a perfect adventure.

The land wind, which generally blows here from March
till August, and very violently all May, coming over an
extensive parched plain, is heated to a degree almost in-
credible, and positively resembles air passing through a
furnace. At this time no European is allowed to stand
sentry, and even natives perish by exposure to the blasting
influence of this Eastern sirocco ; in which birds fre-
quently fall down dead, while passing through it. The
greatest heat generally commences about eight or nine
o'clock, A.M., and lasts, sometimes, with increasing force,
till noon, or even three, P. M., when a lull is succeeded by
a faint sea-breeze, and the poor parched and panting in-
habitants begin to revive. In May, 1799, the thermome-
ter within a solid house, with wet tats at the doors and
windows, rose to 120° ; and all the inferior buildings must
have had it up to 130°. We were actually in a fever
during it's continuance ; but this was only for one day ; a

1800.] REMINISCENCES. 47

succession of such must have annihilated the whole gar-
rison. Even with a sea-breeze, the nights were always
close and suffocating; yet this place is not considered so
unhealthy as it is disagreeable.

PALLAMCOTTAII.

Having been promoted in the end of the year 1799, and
removed to the 1st battalion of the 3d regiment, a corps in the
southern division, I then retraced my steps, through Ma-
dras, Trichinopoly, and Madura, to the Tinnevelly district,
and joining the southern field force, as Quarter-master of
brigade, encamped near Pallamcottah, which was at that
time the head-quarters of the district. The fort is situated
upon a fertile plain, about two miles from the river, with a
clear nullah running a short distance from the walls. It
is about two miles in circumference, nearly square, with
two rows of works all round it, but no ditch ; the inner
rampart much higher than the outer one, and the whole
having small round bastions, and short curtains, with four
gateways in the middle of the faces, covered by square
redoubts ; the two to the west and south being closed up.
A capital road led from the northern gate to the towns
of Tinnevelly and Tatchenoor, across the river by a ford,
always passable, excepting during a few days in the north-
east monsoon. Some pleasantly situated garden-houses
were close to the road leading to the river, and the whole
of the surrounding country being well watered and wooded,
was highly picturesque and beautiful.

The town of Tinnevelly, or Tirnawelly, as the natives
call it, is very large, and contains many wealthy Hindoo

48 MILITARY [A.D.

merchants ; and Tachenoor, which is much smaller, had a
cavalry cantonment formed near it. The river has it's rise
among some lofty mountains to the w^estward, and has the
attraction of a very beautiful cascade, about thirty-two
miles off, at a place called

PAPANASSUM.
Parties from below have traced the river above the fall
for about eleven miles, in the midst of woody hills and deep
jungle, but the exact source of it is, I believe, vmknown.
The cascade itself is truly grand ; it is not very broad, but
falls from a very considerable height, in one large stream,
into an unfathomable pool, from whence a new river seems
to issue, meandering through a plain nearly level with the
sea. The sound of the fall is distinctly heard for a very
great distance, even in the dry season ; and about a mile
from it is a handsome substantial Pagoda, built upon the
bank, with several elegant stone choultries and steps down
to the water's edge ; where river fish, of all sorts and
sizes, are to be caught, and tame carp from one to two, and
even nearly three feet, come to the surface to be fed.
There is also the ruin of a building here, asserted to have
been the Palace of the famous Trimulnaig of Madura, in
whose kingdom all Tinnevelly was then included. This
is, indeed, altogether one of the wildest and most beautiful
spots I have ever seen ; and the neighbourhood abounds in
game, particularly pea-fowl, tigers, and wild hogs. I have
spent a month at a time in this sequestered retreat, merely
putting up tent walls between the pillars of the choultries,
and burning fires at night to keep off the tigers ; but it

180U.] RR.MlNlSGFNCliS. 49

can be visited with safety, only between the months of May
and August, or September ; as at all other times a danger-
ous hill- fever is extremely prevalent.

COURTALLUM.
There is another river, and another cascade, in the same
range of mountains, about thirty miles to the north of the
last mentioned, and forty miles in a direct line from Pal-
lamcottah. The features of the falls, as well as of the sur-
rounding objects, are, however, vastly different, though both
possess beauties peculiar to themselves. Here the fall is
not near so high, but it is twice as broad ; and is again so
subdivided by projecting rocks, that one part of it answers
all the purpose of a shower-bath, and is much frequented
for that purpose both by Europeans and natives. Here,
also, although many beautiful forest-trees are left, to give
life to the picture ; the country is well cultivated, and there
are many gentlemen's seats in the neighbourhood, which,
however, can be inhabited only between the months al-
ready mentioned. There is a beautiful avenue, of some
miles in length, as far as the fall ; and several picturesque
Pagodas and choultries, even to the very foot of it. Above
the. fall, tracing a wild, rugged foot-path, in a steep ac-
clivity, between two mountains, with the river, a small in-
significant stream, winding through rocks and bushes, the
enterprising visitor will find a cave, about five miles from
the foot of the cascade, called Paradise. This is formed
by nature ; and the contrast, after climbing a steep hill,
exposed to a meridian sun, may well entitle it to such an
appellation. It appeared to me to be twenty or thirty

50 MILITARY [A.D.

degrees cooler than the country below ; and here we found
many trees growing wild, which could not thrive at the
bottom ; particularly lichees, a Chinese fruit ; and a tree
like the English horse-chesnut. This place is, however,
so infested by tigers, that it behoves all visitors to go well
armed. It is, of course, by no means surprising, that this
delightful watering-place should be frequented in the hot
months by the inhabitants of Madura and Quilon, as well
as Pallaracottah, it being equi-distant from both, nearly
seventy miles ; from the latter by a pass in the hills, which
separate the two countries of the eastern and western
coasts, called the Arangowl Ghaut ; and from the former
by a direct road.

On the opposite side from Pallamcottah, and nearly at
the same distance on the sea coast, lies

TUTUCORINE,
A handsome harbour for small vessels, protected by an
island about a mile from the shore, and a place of con-
siderable trade with Ceylon, when in the possession of
the Dutch. It has a large fortified factory, washed by
the sea ; and a neat little town, the front street of whicli,
on the sea shore, has some good houses in it. As it is but
a short distance from the Pearl and Chauk Banks, in the
Gulf of Manaar, the native inhabitants, about five thousand
in number, are mostly fishermen and Christians; and
when the season is over, they catch fish in great abund-
ance, which, being salted, are carried into the interior for
sale. Their Christianity, however, is debased by a con-
junction of Roman Cathohc and Heathen idolatry, quite

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1801.] RKMINISCRNCKS. 51

distressing to behold ; added towhicli, their principallMiro-
pean qualification is dram-drinking, which tliey carry to
excess. And as the pure Hindoos deck out and carry in
procession an annual car, called Rutt, or Tare, so tliese
mongrel heathens have a similar car, decorated with images
of our blessed Saviour and his Virgin Mother, surrounded
by little cherubim, which they drag through the town on
Christmas day and at Easter. From this place the passage
by sea to Columbo is performed in one or two days; the
Gulf always having strong winds blowing, either up or
down, which are equally available going or returning.

Besides the Factory-house, which was a very roomy,
well finished, and remarkably cool habitation, the Dutch
Governor had a garden-house situated in a sandy jungle,
about three miles inland ; a situation which, certes, no
Englishman would ever have chosen ; and where, unless
De Heer Van Donder were a keen sportsman, he must have
slumbered away a very dull existence.

I have, however, frequently shot hares and partridges in
it's neighbourhood, in spite of it's close atmosphere, and
under a vertical sun ; but never attempted to breathe the
closer climate of the interior.

THE POLIGAR WAR.
On the 2d of February, 1801, while our force was can-
toned at Shangarnacoile, about thirty miles to the eastward,
and the whole of the remaining community, about twenty
ladies and gentlemen, were dining at Major Macaulay's
garden-house at Pallamcottah, a number of Poligar pri-
soners confined in the fort, made their escape by overpow-
E 2

52 MILITARY [A.D.

ering their own guard and the one at the fort-gate, whom
they disarmed. As men of consequence and state prisoners,
they had been hitherto kept in irons and very strictly
guarded ; but the smali-pox having recently broken out
amongst them, their chains had been removed a few days
before. This evening a number of their adherents in dis-
guise, and with concealed weapons, had entered the fort,
and, at a preconcerted signalj forced the prison-gate, whilst
the prisoners attacked the two sentries in front. A few of
the guard were wounded, and the whole instantly dis-
armed ; when the prisoners, seizing the musquets of their
ci-devant gaolers, headed their adherents, and rushing on
the gate-guard, succeeded in overpowering them; when
passing through the gates, they made such good use of their
heels that, before morning, they had arrived at Panjallum-
coorchy, a distance of thirty miles ; having surprised and
disarmed nearly one hundred men at different stages on
the road, and, at one place, an entire company, under a
native officer. In their haste to secure a safe retreat, they,
however, let slip the fairest opportunity they ever could
have enjoyed of crippling our force, for the party assembled
at our Commandant's included the civilians of the station,
all the staff-officers, and several others of the force ; the
house was protected by a Naigue's guard only, and not
above a mile out of their route ; and there we must all
have perished, unprepared and unresisting, since they were
several hundreds strong, even before they left the place.
Unaware of the extent of the mischief, small parties were
sent out, as soon as they could be collected, to overtake
the fugitives, and lucky it was for them that they returned

1801.] REMINISCKNCES. 53

unsuccessful. Indeed, all the Sepoys then in Pallani-
cottali would have been inadequate for that purpose.

The next day measures were concerted, and the troops
ordered to march immediately from Shangarnacoile, thirty
miles to the eastward, to Kyetaur, twenty-one miles north-
ward ; and all the officers, proceeding from Pallamcottah,
joined at that place on the O'th, attended by a party of
eight- and-twenty of the Nabob's cavalry, who were mounted
on gentlemen's horses volunteered for the purpose. A body
of European cavalry had originally formed a part of the
southern field-force, and, with some infantry corps, had
been only lately removed, under an appearance of perfect
tranquillity being established in this hitherto turbulent
district. Our force was therefore consequently now re-
duced to nine hundred firelocks, and all Native, excepting
a detachment of Bengal artillery, with two six, and two
four-pounders. On the morning of February 8th, having
marched half-way the day before, the detachment reached
the village of Cullyanellore, nineteen miles from Kyetaur.
The camp was formed in a small square, and all hands were
preparing to enjoy a hearty meal, when a body of Poligars,
to the number of a thousand or twelve hundred, armed
with musquets, pikes, and swords, made their appearance
on a rising ground in front of the line, and, inclining to
the right and left, made a simultaneous attack on three
faces. The small village, situated about a mile in the
rear, had been previously taken possession of by our pic-
quets ; and while we were employed in front by the first
assailants, a body of the enemy, advancing under cover of
a deep ravine, immediately attacked it. Although many

54 MILITARY [A.D.

of our men, being new drafts and recruits, had never seen
a shot fired, yet the whole behaved well, except the Nabob's
cavalry, who would not charge even a small party of the
enemy, and we began to wish we had our horses back
again. In about an hour, however, the Poligars withdrew,
leaving forty dead upon the field, and carrying off their
wounded ; they were not pursued very far, and all was
quiet again in our little camp by noon. Our loss was not
more than six men, a proof of the bad firing of the enemy.
The post in the village was strengthened, being a kind of
key to our position, and all remained perfectly quiet, till
about nine o'clock at night, when a peal of musquetry, in
the direction of the village, again roused us ; an attempt
being made to surprise that post, which was, however,
completely foiled before a reinforcement could arrive to it's
relief. After a sleepless night, we marched the next morn-
ing, and reached a plain close to Panjalumcoorchy by nine
o'clock, when, to our utter astonishment, we discovered
that the walls, which had been entirely levelled, were now
rebuilt, and fully manned by about fifteen hundred Po-
ligars.

Without a single battering-gun, and, I may add, without
even a few Europeans to lead the storming-party, to have
attempted to take the place in open day would have been
next to madness : a spot of ground was therefore selected
near the village of Wotapadarum, about a mile from the
fort, and there we formed our camp, in a square, with high
grain to the northward ; the bund, or bank, of a tank to
the southward ; the village near the eastern face, and Pan-
jalumcoorchy opposite to the west. After taking some little

MAP or rT^ri'i'ih'Y'Jh'Lvr.

Pivblish,ed. by SrjitLi .Udei- & C? Go,

1801.] RKiMlNlSCliNCES. 55

rest and refreshment, it was proposed to Ibrni the delach-
nieut into two storming-parties, and to escalade the works
at two different points, as soon as darkness should conceal
our approach from the enemy. A short time after, some
of our scouts came in, with the agreeable intelligence that
the Poligars, now amounting to five thousand, were pre-
pared to assault our camp at nightfall. Here then was an
unlooked-for occurrence : in the first place, we were op-
posed by a strong fort, raised, as it were by magic, in six
days ; and, in the second, it's defenders, increased beyond all
possible calculation, were likely to become the assailants.
It was decided, therefore, nem. con. that we had no
business to remain there ; and as both men and officers
were ah-eady nearly exhausted, by two grilling marches
and a sleepless night, it was doubtful whether they could
keep awake another, to receive with due alacrity such a
nocturnal visit as was in contemplation. The troops were
therefore warned, and at two o'clock P. M. being formed
an oblong square, the baggage in the centre, and field-
pieces distributed in front and rear, we drew out, as if pre-
paring to assault the fort. In an instant every part of the
works was manned, and we could plainly discern a body of
fifteen hundred or two thousand men outside of the boimd-
ary hedge, their long spears glittering in the sun. As soon
as the formation was completed, we commenced our march,
not for the Fort, but for Pallamcottah, and had actually
accomplished a third of our journey, when we were over-
taken in the dark, by a body of the enemy, who rushed on
us with shouts and screams, almost to the bayonet. The
rear-face of our column, for it was now no longer a square.

56 MILITARY [A.D

was luckily composed of the grenadiers of the 1st bat-
talion of the 3d regiment, with the two six-pounders under
Captain Vesey. He allowed them to approach without
molestation, the more fully to effect his purpose, when,
giving the word himself, a couple of vollies, poured in with
grape and musquetry, levelled one hundred and ten of our
assailants ; the astonished remainder made a very precipi-
tate escape, and we were no more molested during a long
and severe march, which lasted all night, than by imagin-
ation, which placed an enemy behind every bush on the
road. Our loss on this occasion was only two men and a
woman, and we safely reached Pallamcottah at nine
o'clock A.M. on the 10th.

Matters thus remained in statu quo, while troops were
pouring in from various quarters, till the 27th, when a de-
tachment composed of three companies of the 9th regiment,
one of the 2d battalion of the 16th, and two of the Martinz
battalion, under the command of Captain Hazard, attacked
the fort of Cadulgoody, supposed to be weak, and ill de-
fended. Our opponents, however, got intelligence of the
march, in sufficient time to send a body of two thousand
men to assist the defenders, and our men were consequently
so well received, that after every exertion that bravery and
discipline could oppose to number, they were compelled to
retreat, leaving three men killed and eighteen wounded on
the ground ; the loss of the enemy was never ascertained.
It may naturally be concluded, that while we were rein-
forcing our detachment from a distance, the insurgents,
who had their resources nearer at hand, were not idle ;
but rising in various quarters, they possessed themselves

1801.] REMINISCENCES. 57

of forts, arms, &.c. in so active a manner, that we hardly
ever knew where to find them.

The southern Poligars, a race of rude warriors, habitu-
ated to arms and independence, had been but lately sub-
dued, and those of Panjalumcoorchy, were the hardiest
and bravest of the whole. Their chief, called Catabomia
Naig, having successfully defended the fort against a
force under Colonel Bannerman two years before, had at
length been taken prisoner, with the rest of his family,
and kept in close confinement. It is not for me to decide
upon the justice or policy of such a measure, but I should
have thought liberality and kindness would have been the
best way to secure their allegiance. While their chiefs
were condemned to a perpetual and ignominious imprison-
ment, the fort of Panjalumcoorchy was ordered to be razed
to the ground, with some others of less note. Such treat-
ment to a high-spirited people was not much calculated to
win their affections, and the indignities to which indivi-
duals were subjected by the native servants of the Collector,
adding fuel to the fire, the whole burst out at once, and
for a season bore down all before them.

On the 3d of March the detachment proceeded to Kye-
taur, twenty-one miles distant, and took up ground in
such a position, as to allow the different reinforcements to
join us. Having no opponents out of our camp, the enemy
made good use of their time, and seized on Tutucoryn,
where a young subaltern commanded with a company of
Sepoys. Unfortunately, he was unacquainted with any
native language ; and while he was defending the fort on
one side, the native officer under him capitulated, and ad-

58 MILITARY [A.D.

mitted the enemy on the other. In proof, however, of the
noble spirit of these untutored savages, they treated the
officer with the utmost kindness ; and without exacting
any promise from him, permitted bis embarkation in a
fishing boat, for an Enghsh settlement. The Sepoys they
merely disarmed, and set at liberty ; and searching in
the town for ammunition, &,c., came upon a Mr.Baggott,
an Englishman, who was Master-attendant, and carried
him off a prisoner. His wife immediately followed them
unmolested into the fort, where the Cat, as he was always
called, had taken up his head quarters ; and petitioning
for her husband's life, he was instantly set at liberty, and
his property ordered to be restored. The Dutch they con-
sidered as neutral, and not a man of them was ever mo-
lested in any way.

This was the infamous Catabomia Naig, who had lately
been confined in irons, and treated with every indignity ;
upon whose head a price was set, and who was, on no
condition, to receive any quarter, if found in arms.

Having been both a public staff and regimental officer,
which affijrded me the fullest means of obtaining accurate
information, I am induced to enter more into detail on this
occasion ; because I do not believe that any account of
this service has ever been given to the public ; and it was
customary, while gallant fellows were falling, covered
with glorious wounds, to put down the casualty in our
newspapers, as if they had died in their beds, thus : —

" Deaths. Lately, to the southward. Captain ,

or Lieutenant — ! " &.c. &c.

While several of our small posts in the surrounding

1801.] IIKMINISCENCES. 59

country fell into the hands of the enemy, by which means
they had captured nearly one thousand musquets, with
their ammunition ; one solitary Pagoda, slightly fortified,
on the bank of the river, about fifteen miles below Pallam-
cottah, held out beyond example, or expectation. To
relieve this brave handful, Major Sheppard marched, at
the head of the 1st battalion of the 3d regiment, with two
six-pounders. Arriving at Pallamcottah, on the 13th of
March, the heavy baggage was thrown in there, and on
the morning of the 16th they came in sight of the Pagoda
of Strevygundum, on the opposite side of the river, and
were immediately attacked by swarms of the enemy ;
through whom they forced their way to their comrades on
the opposite shore. All the troops behaved well, particu-
larly the grenadiers, who charged a large body of the
enemy, and put them to flight. The Poligars, intent on
capturing the place, had beset it on every side, and raised
a large mound of earth to overlook the Pagoda. They were
also busy in making scaling ladders for an escalade, when
our corps relieved them. The garrison was withdrawn,
and on the march back to Pallamcottah, the enemy an-
noyed them the whole way, though repeatedly charged by
our soldiers. Our loss was not so heavy as might have
been expected, and the corps remained resting at Pallam-
cottah, till the stores necessary for a siege could be collected.
On the 27th of March the battalion and stores reached
Kytaur, and the other detachments joining, the whole force
was composed as follows : —

A detachment of Pioneers, under the command of Captain
Baeshaw.

60 MILITARY [A.D.

A detachment of the Bengal artillery, — Lieutenant Graham.

Two companies of His Majesty's 74th regiment, — Captain
John Campbell.

One troop of the Governor's body guard, — Lieutenant
James Grant.

One troop of the 1st regiment of Native cavalry, — Lieute-
nant Lyne.

First battahon 3d regiment Native infantry, — Major Shep-
pard.

Five companies 1st battalion 4th Native infantry,— Captain
Nagle.

Six companies 1st battalion 14th Native infantry, — Captain
N. Smith.

Three companies 1st battalion 9th Native infantry, — Cap-
tain Hazard.

One company 2d battalion 16th Native infantry, — Captain
D. Macdonald.

Three companies 1st battalion 13th Native infantry, — Cap-
tain G. Lang.

With two 12-pounders, one 18-pounder, and two 5|-inch
howitzers ; and two 6-pounder, and two 4-pounder
old field-pieces.
The whole amounting to nearly three thousand men,

under the command of Major Colin Macaulay, who was

also Resident to the Rajah of Travancore.

Our first march was to Wotrampetty, only eight miles ;

the second to Peshavunthally, eight miles also, on the road

to which we first encountered the enemy ; a body of five or

six hundred of whom appeared shortly after we left our

ground, and boldly advanced to meet us, on which the

1801.] REMINISCENCES. Gl

Major ordered the cavalry to charge them. The two trooi)s,
having rear and flank guards out, did not amount to more
than ninety men, if so many * ; but they were led by
James Grant, one of the finest and bravest fellows I ever
knew. They had two small galloper guns with them, which
were fired as the enemy approached, and this first ap-
peared to induce them to retire, which they did leisurely,
keeping up a running fight ; though it was evident that the
men who had fire-arms were most anxious to escape.
When our cavalry had got within a few hundred yards,
Lieutenant Grant gave the words " Saint George, and
Charge!" the enemy at the same time halting, faced
about, and presented an abbatis of pikes to the horses'
breasts ; but so great was the impetus, that in an instant
this formidable phalanx was borne down, and our men
were afterwards engaged in single combat with these brave
but unskilful pedestrians, until a thick wood luckily inter-
vened, through which they made their escape. The ground,
being what is called in India " black cotton," with the
shrub actually growing on it, was very unfavourable for
our men, and so determined was the resistance, that Lieu-
tenant Grant fell, wounded with a pike through the lungs ;
and his subadar. Sheik Ebraum, and four troopers were
killed. Lieutenant Lyne lost his horse, a very powerful
animal ; a ISTaigue and eleven troopers were wounded ; and

* Lieutenant Knowles, Brigade Major, and myself, the Major's two
staff officers, obtained permission to join this small party ; it was my
first charge with cavalry, and I found myself, with a staff sword, much
inferior to any sepoy trooper. The Major, following us with his orderly
havildar, came into the thick of the business, and was nearly paying
with his life for this act of temerity, his orderly killing a fellow that
attacked him.

62 MILITARY [A.D.

two horses were killed, and twelve wounded. Of the
enemy, ninety-six dead bodies were counted on the field ;
what number of wounded they carried off, of course could
not be ascertained. Grant killed four with his own hand,
the last after he had received his desperate wound ; and
his subadar also killed four or five before he fell.
Sheik Ebraum*' was one of the noblest soldiers in our
native army ; attached to, and beloved by his European
officers, no enterprise was too difficult for his daring spirit.
He was emulating his beloved commander, when he fell
covered with wounds. Still I have known many Sheik
Ebraums in the service, but very few James Grants. The
next day, the 31st of March, we advanced towards the
Gibraltar of these insurgents, and as we were detained a
considerable time in it's neighbourhood, I may as well
bring it at once to the reader's acquaintance.

PUNJALUMCOORCIIY,
An irregular parallelogram, two sides of which were about
five hundred feet, and the other two about three hundred
only, built entirely of mud, of a very solid and adhesive
quality, presented so very unwarlike an object to the eye,
that some of our soldiers, at first sight, compared it to "■ a
kail yard, with a dike about it." The wall was generally
about twelve feet high, with small square bastions, and
very short curtains. A few old guns were mounted in
these bastions, and the whole was surrounded by a thick
hedge of cockspur thorns, but no ditch. Arriving before
it at eight o'clock A.M., preparations were instantly made

* Ibrahim is the proper name, but Englishmen pronounce it Ebraum ;
it is the Oriental designation of the Hebrew Patriarch, Abraham.

1801.] REMINISGKNCKS. 65

for breaching the north-western bastion, with the two iron
twelve, and one eight-pounder, from a bank about nine
hundred yards distance ; and at half-past eight we opened a
fire, though by no means so destructive as was anticipated.
The eight-pounder, indeed, a foreign gun, tired so wikl,
that the shot seldom hit the fort. At noon, therefore, the
guns were moved on to another bank, about four hundred
yards from the wall, and continued playing till half-past
three, when the breach appearing practicable, the storm
was ordered. The two howitzers and two six-pounders
had also been firing on the fort from a bank to the north-
ward ; but the shells were so bad, and the fuses so miser-
able, that few of them burst, or did any execution.

The party for assault was composed of the two companies
of the 74th regiment, all the native grenadiers, and a bat-
talion company of the 3d ; the whole line being close to
them, disposed to the right and left, to keep down the
enemy's fire. They advanced with alacrity, under the
heaviest fire imaginable, from the curtains and five or six
bastions, the defences of which we had not been able to
demohsh ; our men fell rapidly, but nothing impeded their
approach ; even the hedge was speedily passed, and re-
peated attempts were made to surmount the breach, but all
in vain. Every man who succeeded in reaching the sum-
mit was instantly thrown back, pierced with wounds, from
both pikes and musquetry, and no footing could be gained.
At length a retreat was ordered, and a truly dismal scene
of horror succeeded, all our killed, and many of the
wounded being left at the foot of the breach, over which
the enemy immediately sprung, and pursued the rear,

VOL. I. 1

66 MILITARY [A.D.

while others pierced the bodies both of the dying and the
dead.

The immediate defence of the breach was with pikes,
from eighteen to twenty feet long, behind which, a body of
men from an elevated spot, kept up a constant fire, whilst
others in the bastions took the assailants in flank. In the
confusion of the moment a howitzer was left near the
breach, which was afterwards rescued by six officers and
about fifty sepoys, under a fire, which killed one of the
officers and several of the men, and wounded two other
officers, and five or six men. And here let me record the
personal bravery and devotion of Captain Nicholas Mathew
Smith, the first man who reached the gun, and whose ex-
ample stimulated the rest ; he was a fine honest fellow,
and a good soldier, but, with the noble James Grant and
several others, he has since paid the debt of nature. Our
total loss this day was four officers and forty-nine men,
killed ; and thirteen officers and two hundred and fifty-four
men, wounded ; besides several slight cases, not reported.
Of the enemy's loss we had no account. No sooner had
we gained a safe distance from the fort, than the line was
formed, and encamping ground marked out ; the nearest
part being at a distance of 1,500 yards from the walls.
We had a high ridge in the centre of the line, running pa-
rallel to the fort, and our ammunition and stores were
placed in the rear, out of sight of the enemy. Our picquets
were posted on the bank from whence we first attempted
to breach, and it was completely dark before we could get
under cover.

As all had alike partaken in the dangers and discomfiture

1801.] REMINISCENCES. 67

of the day, a dead silence reigned throughout our line, the
only tribute we could then ])ay to the memory of our de-
parted brethren ; and the enemy so far respected our grief,
as to allow us it's unmolested indulgence.

To a mind accustomed to think, our total failure of this
day was perfectly inexplicable, and how the breach was
defended appeared almost miraculous; for none of the
actual defenders ever shewed themselves above the broken
parapet, and certainly that was entirely destroyed, and a
practicable passage apparently made to the terre pkin of
the bastion, long previous to our attack. Yet here a grove
of pikes alone presented itself to our view ; and the enemy
appearing in every other part of the works, exposing them-
selves without the smallest reservation, were constantly
shot by our men, who were covering the storm, and as con-
stantly replaced by others ; whilst they kept up a most
unnatural yell the whole time, from upwards of five thou-
sand voices, which only ceased with our retreat. Of one
hundred and twenty Europeans on the storming party,
only forty-six escaped unhurt; and, including officers and
artillery, one hundred and six were killed and wounded of
the whole force. This was so very large a proportion, as
to make the duty come heavy on the survivors for a consi-
derable time, when our disheartened men required a con-
stant and undeviating example of that cheerful devotedness
to their duty, which can alone secure the confidence of
soldiers in times of unusual difficulty and danger.

Of the 74th regiment, Lieutenants Campbell and Shanks
were killed ; Captain Campbell mortally wounded ; Lieu-
tenant Fletcher badly. Of the 3d, Lieutenant Egan

68 MILITARY [A.D.

killed ; Major Sheppard, Lieutenant Greaves, and Doctor
Barter, wounded. Of the 4th, Lieutenant Magnell killed ;
and Lieutenant Clapham wounded. Of the 9th, Lieu-
tenant Torriano mortally, and Captain Hazard wounded.
Of the 13th, Lieutenant Norris wounded. Of the 1st,
battalion of the 14th, Lieutenants Elliot, Brown, Wright,
and M'Kay, wounded. I should have mentioned, that a
body of one thousand Eteapoor Poligars, hereditary ene-
mies of the Panjalumcoorchy race, had joined us on the
march, having a company of sepoys, and Captain Charles
Trotter, attached to them. These brave and faithful allies
made some unsuccessful attempts at an escalade on the
other side of the fort, whilst we were on the west face, but
were repulsed with considerable loss ; though we had no
official returns of their casualties. This circumstance alone
proves how numerous the defenders must have been.

The 1 st of April was ushered in with the painful recol-
lection, that many of our late gay and cheerful companions
were lying at the foot of the breach unburied : and a flag
of truce was consequently sent to the fort, to entreat per-
mission to remove and inter our dead. This was kindly
and unconditionally accorded ; and we then collected the
disfigured and gory bodies, and buried them in the evening,
with military honours : the enemy, setting us a bright ex-
ample of humanity, made not the smallest attempt to dis-
turb us, and we enjoyed a good night's rest; that of the
preceding having been any thing but refreshing.

Perfectly convinced that our present measures were ut-
terly inadequate to the capture of a place so defended.
Major Macaulay, who had shared every danger with his

Reff'.eiK(-s

A . A liuik Ir \lllirh ? . J'i H'limlri., .<■ V L

Hir Wntt Fm-< t-rthf S If. Ilaill,.n

B. Thr f^inrl Bnlkrr ,'F- -t JH /""A" ;
x/iu/i played €u u-helr <'/'thr 'i3 '
ft. brtM/i Hit S. Fare vl llir S IV fltua.

C. ?. /? r^.t I. S P" .iilKinra/ nil
iBlirmrfi Ai- X.U'.Bajhim

D. Tht Jiration vr ! t, P~ 1^ ! ffriiu
„n die SI MuHt . i' Ueii </. u n !hr
the •Stvrnunit tUrt\'

1 . The t'u-st HreueJt .
'i. The *^etviut Bretuh

J The .

nille,

7. (ntle iront wbenee t^h<ne/ Htmitrrn,
ii-OJ repubed in I7HSI. uilli <,ie,it I
.!. idt'or Abiraulavj Jtittion on the .'}i Mm

tiuriiui the ^Lisaiill .
U*. thbiul AjtnetKf Jta/irn en the 2-f^
7. .1 Bewitzer leit in the Retreat. 31 MarrA
reivftral by 7 ttfricers X: Jt? Sepoy.

llaUv I'ulposI irKiT, the /A

J/lM/e ,, If,,, I 'P^

till ;'i. •' (/,/, / '

Bent 1 T

68 MILITARY [A.D.

Perfectly convinced that our present measures were ut-
terly inadequate to the capture of a place so defended.
Major Macaulay, who had shared every danger with his

'P'LA-i^ or KiraJAL-niVICDGXlCH-r.

1801.] RE.MINISCENCKS. 69

troops, and luckily came oft' unhurt, determined 1o turn the
sieo-e into a blockade, as far as the actual state of affairs
would permit, and thus await reinforcements, particularly
of battering guns and ammunition ; for this purpose, the
Pioneers, dooly-bearers, and lascars, were employed to
make temporary shelter for the arms of the men on duty,
with small breast-works, &.c. ; and the camp was regularly
formed, in an oblong square, having the ridge in the centre,
with a high tank bank in the rear ; a tank of fine water on
the left, and a larger one, for watering cattle, on the right.

The 2d of April passed in quiet, excepting that the
Poligars several times called out, when any of us ap-
proached, and demanded an amnesty ; declaring their
readiness to obey the British government, and pay their
kists, but protesting against the imprisonment of their
chiefs. The reply we were instructed to give was, that
'' we could not treat with rebels in arms ; that they must
deliver up all their chiefs, and lay down their arms, un-
conditionally." This evening, while sitting at dinner, we
were suddenly saluted, about eight o'clock, by a shower
of bullets, and found the enemy determined to keep us
employed. It was remarkably dark, and we were not fully
aware of their numbers and intentions till the moon rose,
when they were perceived retiring, after having wasted a
good deal of ammunition, and wounded Lieutenant Lyne
of the cavalry very sev^erely, and five men, in our camp.

From this time, till the 22d, nothing occurred worth no-
tice. We had daily skirmishes, in which a few men fell
on both sides, and our Pioneers, &c, were busily employed
in strengthening our outposts, and in raising a kind of

70 MILITIARY [A.D.

breastwork, to resist cannon shot, which the enemy sent
into our camp from some old guns, drawn out under the
walls of the fort for that purpose. At noon, this day,
a heavy thunder-storm, accompanied by wind and rain,
suddenly assailed us ; and as such a time was the most
favourable in which to oppose pikes to fire-arms, we
began to fall in ; when, in a twinkhng, the thunder was
succeeded by the flash and sound of our six-pounder on
the most distant outpost, and a strong party dashed to-
wards it immediately. This post consisted of a company
of Sepoys, with a party of artillery, and one gun, on the
bund of a large tank, five or six hundred yards to the
southward of the fort, and one thousand two hundred from
our nearest post. Lieutenant H. Dey, who had been
ordered down, with a company of the 3d, to relieve a similar
party of the 9th under Lieutenant Clason, noon being the
time of removing all our outposts, observing an unusual
collection of clouds, and sagaciously auguring therefrom
the probability of a storm, being senior officer, had very
sensibly taken upon himself to detain the other company.
The squall approached, beating in their faces, and was
immediately followed by one thousand pikemen. Our
poor fellows, assailed by two such enemies at once, strove
to give a fire, but hardly a musquet would go off; and
the gun, after being discharged once only, was in the
enemy's possession. The Poligars, more intent on seizing
the ordnance, than on injuring it's defenders, wounded only
eight men of the party, and were pushing off with their
prize as fast as the wet cotton ground would permit, when
our reinforcements appearing, Lieutenants Dey and Clason

I.SOl.] REMINISCENCES. 71

rushed back, accompanied by many of their men, and we
succeeded in rescuing our cannon from the hands of the
Philistines, although many hundreds more rushed out of
the fort to their assistance ; and, as the rain ceased, they
poured out multitudes with fire-arms, who being con-
fronted as readily by similar parties from our camp, a
general action ensued, which, I may well say, ended in
smoke ; both parties making much noise, and neither do-
ing much execution. After about an hour's fighting, as if
with one accord, the firing ceased ; both parties retired to
count their casualties, of which the most serious tally must
have been ball cartridges.

This night, about nine o'clock, we were roused by
another thunder-storm, when all hands were again beat to
quarters. In a short time faint flashes of fire-arms could
be discerned through the gloom, in the direction of all our
outposts ; and now and then the report of a cannon added
to the horrors of the darkness. A general attack with
pikes was now anticipated in every part of the line, and no
one could tell what was going on, on either side of him.
Our anxiety was to preserve the arms from damp ; but
this, from the violence of the rain, proved impossible, and
all stood wet to the skin, enjoying, in delightful anticipa-
tion, a thrust through the body from a pike, as sharp as a
razor, and only twenty feet long. At this critical junc-
ture a body of two or three hundred men came rushing on
the line, with dreadful cries, and were within an inch of
being treated as enemies, when they were discovered to be
Pioneers, Lascars, and Coolies, who had been at work on
an intended battery, within four hundred and fifty yards

72 MILITARY [A.D.

of the fort, and, to their eternal disgrace, a few Sepoys,
who had shamefully abandoned their posts in terror and
dismay ; these latter were instantly placed in confinement.
The Pioneers had been exposed without arms, or any pro-
tection ; had been actually assaulted in the battery, and
their sand bags, &c. carried off in triumph ; nor was it,
indeed, intended that they should attempt to defend them-
selves. In about two hours the weather cleared up ; and
though the numbers of the enemy, who had salhed forth,
could not be ascertained, yet tranquillity was then restored,
and not again disturbed that night.

The next day, having only seen three faces of the fort.
Major Macaulay, determined on a strong reconnoissance,
and proceeded round it, out of reach of musquetry from
the walls, accompanied by the cavalry, and the 1st bat-
talion cf the 3d regiment. The enemy, ever on the alert,
mannea the walls, and sent a few cannon shot among us,
but did no damage, as they seemed to apprehend an as-
sault on the opposite face ; but we had no sooner passed,
than they began to come out, and attempted to impede
our return, though too late to interfere with our real de-
sign. The cavalry having now, four six-pounders as
gallopers, therefore, merely gave them a few rounds, and
then we retired at leisure.

From this time till the 19th of May, nothing remark-
able occurred ; every two or three days, skirmishes, pro-
voked by our followers, ended in nearly the same manner
as those already mentioned ; and we daily lost some men
without being sure of the damage done to the enemy.
Altogether, indeed, we lost about sixty in this quiet period.

1801.] REMINISCENCES. 73

which, considering all matters, was a very small propor-
tion, for the Poligars had now brought a nine-pounder and
a three to bear upon us, which they plied from the tra-
verses of the north and south gates, and much were we in-
debted to Providence for the numerous escapes made in a
crowded camp, through which the shot ranged from front
to rear, without doing much damage. During this time,
however, we were not idle ourselves, since our cannon
daily sent a few dozens of heavy shot into the fort, which
we flattered ourselves could not fail to do execution. We
also constructed a tower twenty paces long and fifteen
broad, within six hundred yards of the western face,
which being about sixteen feet high, might likewise an-
swer as a breaching battery. Here we placed a guard of
sixty men, and it was an object of much jealousy to the
enemy, who did all they could to retard it's progress. It
was about one hundred and fifty yards from the old work,
which the enemy destroyed on the night of the 22d of
April; and when completed, the two twelve-pounders
were mounted in it. About this time we got accounts of
the approach of Lieutenant-colonel Agnew, with reinforce-
ments, and on the 21st of May he arrived with Captain
John Munro, Major of brigade, and Captain Marshall,
Private Secretary, and personal Brigade-major, and imme-
diately determined on the point of attack. We were fired
on while reconnoitering, and had two men wounded. On
the 22nd his Majesty's 77th regiment, under Lieutenant-
colonel Spry, a company of artillery under Captain Sir
John Sinclair, three companies of the 1st battalion of the
7th regiment under Captain C. Godfrey, and four com-

74 MILITARY [A.D.

panics of the 1st battalion of the 13th regiment under
Captain Townsend, also joined our camp, with four iron
eigh teen-pounders, two five-and-a-half, and two four-and-
a-half inch howitzers, and abundance of ammunition. In
addition to which, the 1st regiment of light cavalry under
Captain J. Doveton, and one hundred and fifty Malays
under Captain Whitley, also arrived this evening. On
the 22nd of May, the Colonel having again reconnoitred
with Sir John Sinclair and Lieutenant Bradley of the
Engineers, determined on our post on the south bank, for a
breaching battery : three people were killed by cannon shot
this day, and we got the four eighteen-pounders and two
howitzers, with two six-pounders, into the battery.

I must here mention, that our fellow-soldiers who ar-
rived yesterday, held the fort and enemy in much con-
tempt, and seemed to think that we had not previously
done our duty.

On the morning of the 23d of May at sun-rise, we
opened two batteries at once, on the south-western bastion
of the fort. Our tower, breaching, &c. with two twelve-
pounders and two howitzers ; while the grand battery
favoured them with salvos which soon demolished the
southern faces and saliant angle of the bastion. By noon
the storming party was ready to advance, but our old com-
mandant took Colonel Agnew aside, and backed by another
old friend, persuaded him to delay the assault until the
next day, much against what appeared to him his better
judgment. The firing was therefore kept up all night to
prevent the enemy from repairing the breach. The next
morning the guns were all turned to demolish the defences.

1801.] REMINISCENCES. 75

and cut off the breached bastion, which being completely
effected, at one o'clock P. M. having run the tower guns
half way down to the fort, the storming party was ordered
to advance.

It consisted of the grenadiers and a battalion company of
the 74th regiment, the grenadiers' light company, and a
battalion company of the 77th, the grenadiers of the 3rd,
4th, 7th, 13th, and 14th regiments, the Malays and a de-
tachment of the 9th.

Notwithstanding this formidable array, with the whole
force ready to back them, the defenders shrunk not from
their duty, but received our brave fellows with renewed
vigour, and the breach was so stoutly defended, that
although the hedge was passed in a few minutes, it was
nearly half an hour before a man of our's could stand
upon the summit : while bodies of the enemy, not only
fired on our storming party from the broken bastions on
both flanks, but others sallied round and attacked them in
the space within the hedge. At length, after a struggle of
fifteen minutes in this position, the whole of the enemy in
the breach being killed by hand-grenades, and heavy shot
thrown over among them, our grenadiers succeeded in
mounting the breach, and the resistance afterwards was of
no avail : although one body of pikemeu charged our gre-
nadiers in the body of the place, and killed three of them.
Our cavalry, now under the command of Captain Doveton,
with James Grant, barely recovered from his wound, had
been posted with four gallopers, near the eastern face, to
arrest the fugitives.

A general panic now seized the enemy, and they fled

76 MILITARY [A.D.

from their assailants as fast as possible ; but no sooner
had they got clear of the fort, than they formed into two
solid columns, and thus retreated ; beset, but not dismayed,
by our cavalry, who attacked them in flank and rear, and
succeeded in cutting off six hundred. The remainder,
however, made good their retreat, and a column of about
two thousand ultimately escaped. Four hundred and fifty
dead bodies of the enemy were also found in the fort ; those
killed on former occasions having been disposed of outside,
to the eastward.

Our loss on this day was Lieutenant Gilchrist, of the 74th,
a remarkably fine young man, and a most gallant soldier,
who had distinguished himself so much, as to be beloved
by the whole force. Lieutenants Spalding and Campbell
of the 77th, and Lieutenant Fraser of the 4th, killed.
Lieutenant M'Clean, Scotch Brigade, Captain Whitley
of the Malays, Lieutenant Valentine Blacker of the 1st
Cavalry, Lieutenant Campbell of the 74th, and Lieutenant
Birch of the 4th, wounded. Lieutenant Blacker was piked
in two or three places ; but emulating James Grant, who
was always the foremost in danger, he would not desist,
until our trumpets had sounded the recall. Europeans,
killed nineteen, and wounded seventy-six. Natives, killed
twenty-four, and wounded ninety-six ; making a total,
including officers, of two hundred and twenty-three.

To us, who had suffered so severely in our unsuccessful
assault, a sight of the interior of this abominable dog-
kennel was most acceptable : the more so, as this was the
first time it had ever been taken by storm, though fre-
quently attempted. Nothing could equal the surprise and

1801.] REMINISCENCKS. 77

disgust which filled our minds at beholding the wretched
holes under ground, in which a body of three thousand
men, and for some time their families also, had so long
contrived to exist. No language can paint the horrors of the
picture. To shelter themselves from shot and shells, they
had dug these holes in every part of the fort ; and though
some might occasionally be out to the eastward, yet the
place must always have been excessively crowded. The
north-west bastion, our old breach, attracted our particular
attention ; and a description of it will therefore serve for
every other in this fort. It was about fifteen feet high on
the outside, and nearly square : the face we breached was
thirty feet long, and a parapet of about three feet thick at
the summit, gradually increased sloping down into the
centre, which was barely sufficient to contain about forty
men ; the passage in the gorge being only wide enough to
admit two at a time. The depth in the centre, being
originally on a level with the interior, was increased as the
top mouldered down, so as to leave the defenders entirely
sheltered from every thing but the shells and shot, which
we had latterly used, more by accident than design. These
were, of course, thrown over from the outside, and nothing
else could have secured us the victory, since every man in
the last breach was killed, and the passage blocked up,
before our grenadiers obtained a footing above. Their long
pikes, used in such a sheltered spot, must be most power-
fully effective. No wonder, then, that every man who got
to the top was instantly pierced and thrown down again.
He could never get at his enemy, and indeed could scarcely
tell from whence the blow was inflicted. The system of

78 MILITARY [A.D.

defence adopted by these savages would have done credit to
any engineer. Nothing could surpass it but their unwearied
perseverance. Had the bastions been solid, or their de-
fensive weapons only musquets and bayonets, we should
not have had the mortification to lie before it for two
months; and had our cavalry been more efficient, we
should not have had a continuance of this warfare for six
months longer. The fugitive phalanx, making good it's
retreat to Sherewele, was there joined by twenty thou-
sand men of the Murdoos.

Before I quit this place for ever, my plans and sketches
being the only memorials of it that now exist, for it was
razed to the ground, and ploughed all over but a few months
afterwards, I must pay a parting tribute to the memory of
one of the bravest and most cheerful fellows I ever knew.
Michael Egan, one of the first to reach the top of the
breach the first day, fell pierced through the body, and we
all thought him dead. When the retreat was sounded,
and a rush, not the most creditable, was made, in the oppo-
site direction, I was employed in supporting, or rather
carrying off a wounded grenadier of the 74th ; on looking
behind me, I saw poor Egan rise from the ground and run
a few yards pursued by pike-men. The first impulse
might have left me by his side, but ere I could reach the
spot, he was piked through and through, and fell to rise
no more in this world. His mangled body was wept over
next morning, not only by his brother officers, but by
every native officer and sepoy of the corps. Michael
Egan was a manly, honest, and liberal fellow, with a frame
of iron, and wanting only a little more education to have

1801.] REMINISCENCES. 79

insured a rapid advancement in the world. As, living, he
was beloved by every man who knew him, so he was la-
mented by them dead, and the friend who now with an
aching heart, attempts to record his worth, paid the last sad
tribute to his remains, when interred on the field of battle.
Having already introduced one native soldier to the
reader, I cannot close the Panjalumcoorchy annals, without
making mention of another equally distinguished, and
equally unfortunate, in the successor to Subadar Sheik
Ebraum of the body guard. His name has escaped me,
but his conduct is engraven on my memory, never to be
forgotten ; emulating his noble commander, now much
enfeebled by his wound, but still the foremost amongst the
enemy : this native officer pierced through the whole
column more than once ; cut down four or five of the
enemy himself, and at last fell covered with wounds, and
was afterwards found perfectly lifeless. I could mention
many others, but they would extend my Journal to an un-
reasonable length ; not having, however, done our Eteapoor
alhes sufficient justice, considering the share they took in
the whole service, I shall conclude this part of my narra-
tive with the death of one of their chiefs. Mortally
wounded, he desired that his body might immediately be
carried to Major Macaulay, who was at the time sur-
rounded by his English officers. The old man, who was
placed upright in a chair, then said, with a firm voice, " I
have come to shew the English how a Poligar can die."
He twisted his whiskers with both hands as he spoke, and
in that attitude expired.

The three companies of the 9th, under Captain Hazard,

80 MILITARY [A.D.

being left with the Pioneers to destroy the fort, a work by
no means to be envied, on the 25th of May, the com-
pany of the 16th, under Captain M'Donnell, was sent ten
miles off, to garrison Tutucorine, which the enemy had
abandoned.

ISOl.l REMrNFSCMNiJF.S. 81

CHAPTER III.

ConliiuiiiHon (if the I'dllgin- H'wr — Co)iicn/ — Cttl/iiig l/aouiih the
Shin wile Jungle — SLirwishes of the l'\i?(igiiig ami Working pH/iies
— Arrival of Woodia Tiiver — Departure from the Jungle, (ind (trriiyil
at Ookoor.

POLIGAR WAR.

May 2Gth, the 1st battalion of the 3rd regiment, under
Major Sheppard, marched to Naglepoor, twenty-six miles,
to leave a party there, and then proceed to Comery ; and
on the 28th the whole force arrived at Naglepoor, where
the 2d battalion of the 6th, under Major Gray, immedi-
ately joined us.

On the 29th of May a large body of the enemy being
reported to have invested Comery, the body guard, and the
2nd battalion of the 6th regiment of native infantry were
ordered to proceed to join the 3rd ; when Major Gray, being
senior officer, assumed the command of the whole. They
soon fell in with the Poligars in considerable force, at-
tacked and completely routed them, relieved the place,
and returned, having only eighteen men wounded.

On the 2nd of June the force arrived at Trippoo Wannum,
forty-six miles from IVaglecherry ; the enemy appearing
for the first time from the Murdoo's country, fired on our
rear guard, but did no mischief; they also gave us an alert
at night, from a beetle tope in the neighbourhood of our
camp. Here the force halted, and Major James Graham

VOL, I. G

82 MILITARY [A.D.

was detached with the 13th Native infantry, to escort the
heavy train to Madura.

On the 4th of June, Major Graham's detachment return-
ing to camp, was attacked by the enemy in force, about three
miles off, and the 74th, 1st battalion of the 3d, and cavalry,
marched under Major Sheppard to support them. The
enemy were, however, very cautious, and could not be come
at ; having always the advantage of our infantry in speed,
and the ground not admitting of the pursuit of our cavalry.
Some of them were killed, and we returned safe to camp ;
a few men only, on our side, being killed and wounded.

On the 7th of June we marched to Tripachetty, only
eight miles and a half, but rendered tedious by a harrass-
ing attack from the enemy on the road. They were re-
ported by the flankers to be pushing over the river, to
gain a long and high tank bank, which completely com-
manded the high road, by which we were advancing.
Major Gray, with the 2nd battalion of the 6th, and two
six-pounders, was ordered to take possession of this
position, and cover the line. Unfortunately, however, he
mistook his orders, and went beyond it ; the consequence
of which was, from drawing up his corps in a most ex-
posed situation, the poor Major lost his own life, being
shot through the body, and his corps was very severely
handled ; for drawing off under Lieutenant Ryan, they
quitted the bank entirely, and were assailed by the enemy,
who took immediate possession of it, and very speedily
killed and wounded thirty men. At this juncture Lieu-
nant Blacker 's troop, which had been in front of the
rear-guard, came up, and got orders to charge a party
firing from behind a choultry, which they did in a gallant

1801.] REMINISCENCES. 83

style, and succeeded in cutting up sixty or seventy of the
enemy ; during which skirmish Lieutenant B. received a
slight wound in the leg near a former one not quite healed.
While this was going on to the left and rear, the picquets
were sent out to a village and tope,* in front of our left,
under Captain Nagle, who took post there, and detached
two small parties under Lieutenants Parminter and Stewart,
to keep the enemy at a distance ; they then appearing in
considerable force. The former was attacked on entering
a small jungle, and his party, being overpowered, retreated
with some loss, leaving him to fight his own battle, which
he certainly did most nobly ; he had only a common
regimental sword in his hand, with which miserable wea-
pon he successfully fought, until he stumbled and fell,
receiving five pike wounds in his body. At length a Poligar
came up with a musquet and bayonet, and making a push,
kindly intended for a coup de grace, the Lieutenant, although
pinned by the left shoulder to the ground, made such an
effort, that he not only cut the assailant across the legs,
but at the same instant wrenched the pike out of the
ground, and rose with a part of it fastened through his
arm. His party, who had reloaded during this conflict,
now rushed to his rescue, when he killed his opponent,
and the rest fled in astonishment. Lieutenant Stewart
had fifty men with him, and no sooner had he advanced
on the tope, under a heavy fire, which broke his jaw bone,
and knocked down several of his men, than the enemy,
about six or seven hundred strong, rushed out upon his

* A clump of trees, an orchard, or forest, to any extent. When
united with underwood, it is tlien called a jungle.

G 2

84 MILITARY [A.D.

party, and put them to a momentary flight ; but a staff
officer in whom the men had great confidence, rushing up,
ralhed them in an inst^it, and they returned to the charge
with a loud shout, and succeeded in putting their adver-
saries to flight. The picquets were then reinforced from
the camp, and by the time the rear-guard arrived, our
opponents were retreating in every direction.

Our loss this day was. Major Gray, killed ; Lieutenants
Blacker, Cole, Parminter, and Stewart, wounded ; and of rank
and file, we had sixteen killed, and thirty-five wounded.

On the 10th of June, having made three easy marches,
with slight skirmishes, in which the enemy threw away
much ammunition, as if to let us know they had a super-
abundance, we set forward through a very strong country,
leaving the river to our left, and the road leading by high
banks, water-courses, and jungle. The enemy in great
force, having possessed themselves of a bank, which must
have annoyed our line, the cavalry and gallopers were op-
posed to them till the 3rd came up, when Major Sheppard,
with his usual gallantry, immediately stormed it, under
a very heavy and galling fire. There being, however, a
smaller bank behind it, to which they retreated, he im-
mediately pushed on, and gained that also, after a trial
of steadiness most creditable to the corps ; for a body of
pike-men, making a sudden effort to charge, they formed
and fired by sections, by word of command, at the dis-
tance of only fifty paces. The enemy being at this time
up to their thighs in water, very many of them fell, and
sunk, never to rise again ; the rest with difficulty escaped
to their friends in the rear, who, convinced that the better
part of valour is discretion, had retreated at an earlier

1801.] REMINISCKNCES. 85

period. Here, covered by a deep jungle, they rallied, and
the battalion was recalled, leaving flankers on the first
bank, to be relieved regularly to the end of the march.
As soon as the last party was withdrawn, the enemy made
a dash, and gained it; poured in a heavy fire on the re-
treating troops and rear-guard, from under cover ; whilst
another party rushed into the bed of the river, and piked
a few of our men. Not satisfied, however, with this trifling
success, uniting their whole force, about three thousand
men, they rapidly dashed across the river, gained the
south bank, and attacked the rear-guard and reinforce-
ments under Captain Godfrey, which had been sent back
to it's relief; and without v.iiich, the former must, in all
probability, have been destroyed. As it was, we merely
lost a limber, arrack, cart, and barrel of ammunition.
Many of the enemy must have fallen in this latter con-
test, and some were even killed within ten yards of the
gun with the rear-guard. Captain Trotter, who com-
manded it, received a severe contusion from a spent ball,
of uncommon magnitude ; and our loss on this march was
ten Europeans and eighty-six natives, kifled and wounded.
Our situation in camp, near Pattianoor, was truly irk-
some, from the nature of the ground on which our line was
formed. The enemy fired a volley in the evening at a
small party posted in a little miserable Pagoda, at the
corner of the village ; we knew them to be assembled in
multitudes all about us, and we were surrounded by jungle ;
so that had they attempted to take the village, they must
have succeeded, for we had not half enough to defend it,
though it was too near the left flank of the camp to be

86 MILITARY [A.D.

abandoned. Added to which, there was a tank of great
extent, filled with jungle, in the rear of the head quarters,
which they could easily have forced, and penetrated into
the midst of our line : where, from the immense num-
ber of our followers, no small confusion reigned at all
times. Little was the rest, and short were the slumbers of
the head-quarter line this night ; and never was the sound
of the general more welcome to my ears, than at four
o'clock next morning.

The next march brought us to Permagoody, a distance
of eleven miles, and here we encamped on a fine extensive
plain, about half a mile from the village, which is both
large and populous. Very few of the enemy appeared on
this march, and they offered no rudeness, which we attri-
buted to our having quitted the Murdoo's territory. He
had, however, lately visited the village, of which he had
taken possession in due form, and appointed a new Mony-
gar, who thought proper to abscond on our approach.
Here we were informed by the inhabitants, mostly weavers,
that all the Chiefs, Princes, and Sherogars, with the whole
army of the foe, were assembled to oppose us the day be-
fore ; and were further told, that they were still about three
miles off, on the other side of the river. Not wishing en-
tirely to part company with such warm friends ; but at the
same time, most sagaciously suspecting, that we should
not both agree so cordially on the same side,

June 12th, we marched to Chatta Marum, on the
same side- of the river, nearly twelve miles. The gallant
adherents of the Cat, and Chinna Murdoo, shewed some
desire to impede our progress by firing a-Ia-dislance ; so

1801.]

REMINISCENCES.

much so, indeed, that we were at no pains to return the
compliment ; and after marching three or four miles, as we
got further from their territory, they desisted entirely. A
want of water here compelled us to dig eight feet in the bed
of the river, ere we could get a supply. A similar paucity
of forage may also be attributed to our harbingers.

On the 14th of June we reached Ramnad, to cover that
part of the country, and gain information from Colonel
Martinz, whom I have already mentioned, regarding the ap-
proaching campaign ; here we halted, feasting for six days.

COMERY.
June 22nd, we encamped near Comery, about twenty
miles from Ramnad. This is a very strong and compact

88 MILITARY [A.D.

stone fort, near the eastern bank of the Palaraery river ;
it has two entire walls, one considerably higher than the
other, nearly circular, with six round bastions in each ; a
good stone tank between the walls, and a granary and
magazine in the upper one. Lieutenant Greaves was ap-
pointed Commandant, with a company of the 3d, and two
hundred Peons ; and abundance of ammunition and stores.
I now pass over several days of little importance, and at
once bring the troops to Tricateoor, on the 24th of July,
where we encamped, and waited to be joined by another
force under Lieutenant-colonel James Innes. On the
evening of the 25th, large bodies of the enemy were seen
passing to the north-westward, with palanquins, horses,
&c. which we presumed were on their way to dispute the
road with our reinforcements; and from daylight the next
morning, a heavy firing was accordingly heard in that
direction ; in consequence of which, at eight o'clock A.M.
Colonel Agnew consented to a strong detachment being
sent out to meet and assist our friends. Having come
up with Colonel Innes's party about half-past ten, we
found him engaged, with the enemy hanging on his rear ;
upon which we allowed the whole to pass us, and then
joining the rear-guard, discovered the Poligars in posses-
sion of a high bank, covered with bushes, with an almost
impenetrable jungle in their rear, whence we drove them
off, and covered the rear of the baggage, &c. returning to
the camp through an excellent road in a deep jungle.
Our loss this day was Captain Heitland and Lieutenant
Frith, wounded ; five Europeans killed and eight wounded ;
and four Sepoys killed and twelve wounded. Colonel

1801.] RKMINFSCENCES. 89

Inncs's detachment encamped on our left, brinoing with
them some of Tondiman's Poligars, to act as Pioneers in
the Sherewele jungle. The enemy this day used rockets
against us for the first time ; and I saw a poor Sepoy
burned to death, with one sticking fast in his chest, from
which we could not extract it, nor extinguish the flame.

On the 28th, the enemy expecting us by another route,
did not annoy us till near our ground at Ookoor; when
they attacked the rear guard, and very unexpectedly met
with a warm reception from a party under Lieutenant
Parrel of the Gth, who gave a volley and then charged,
which so much disconcerted them, that no further oppo-
sition was experienced, and the troops arrived in camp at
eleven o'clock, A. M. The cavalry, under Captain Doveton,
being sent out after breakfast, to protect the foragers, first
sent in for a party of infantry, and afterwards reported
that four thousand of the enemy had taken possession of a
village about a mile to the right ; when Major Sheppard
was ordered out with reinforcements to their assistance. On
our approach, however, they merely fired and retreated ;
when we gave them a few shot from the gallopers, burned
the village, and returned to camp, with little loss. At
night some of our followers set fire to the village of Ookoor,
and entirely destroyed it ; our picquets had been posted
on the other side, to prevent the enemy from getting pos-
session of it, and annoying our line : these rascals, how-
ever, found a far easier method of securing it.

On the 29th, they allowed us to proceed two miles
without opposition, after which, we had to manoeuvre
every inch of the road ; the country we had to pass

90 MILITARY [A.D.

through being most advantageously situated both for an-
noyance and defence ; there being a continuation of banks
on both sides, within niusquet-shot, and others beyond
them, flanked by thick jungle and palmyra trees, of
which most favourable position they readily availed
themselves. The first bank to the right, about two miles
and a half onwards, was stormed by Major Sheppard, at
the head of the advance guard. The enemy fired very
briskly, but the Major did not give them time to load
again ere the position was carried ; when they retreated
to another bank, and continued the same kind of warfare
during the whole march : being driven from bank to bank
as we advanced, but never entirely desisting. The rear
guard did not come up till three o'clock P.M. when the
firing ceased, and we took possession of a strong line of
banks with hedges under them, facing Sherewele, and
forming a kind of pentagon ; whilst from the situation of
two banks running parallel to our flanks, so as to cover
the corps behind them, we could not easily have found a
stronger position. The enemy continued to shew them-
selves in all directions during the day, but gave us no
disturbance at night. Our loss on this march, was Lieu-
tenant Bruce badly wounded ; one European killed and
eight wounded, and two natives killed and twenty-four
wounded.

SHEREWELE.
On the 30th of July we obtained possession of the
Murdoo's capital, Sherewele. Though we had but a short
distance to go, yet expecting some hard work, wc took an

i!Q.C3Dl

-Mm.-

- ._IiLr' .nUK,

SMUIi'lL^^WJh'LZ

1801.] REMINISCKNOKS. 91

early breakfast, and set forward at eight o'clock A.M.; our
advance consisting of five hundred and forty Europeans,
the Malay riflemen, and three Native regiments. A
bank running in an easterly direction from the right of
our line, for about half a mile, and then turning to the
north, was crowned with the Sherogar's troops ; and they
had formed a very neat little battery for four guns, in the
centre of the northern arm, bearing directly down upon the
high road, which they expected us to take. On recon-
noitring this position. Colonel Agnew directed the leading
division to be formed in two columns, one to take the battery
in flank, the other to advance direct upon it ; the former was
accompanied by four 6-pounders, and the latter by two
12-pounders and two howitzers; upon which, the enemy
fired a few shots, threw some ill-directed rockets, and
then retreated with their four guns, but being rapidly pur-
sued, very speedily abandoned them. Their panic was so
great, that instead of offering any further resistance, where
nature and art had given them such ample means, the
enemy set fire to their own houses, and scampered off" to
the deep jungle, leaving us to take quiet possession of a
burning town.

This march, which was at most two miles and three
quarters, took us exactly six hours to accomplish ; and the
first tent of the line was pitched at half-past two o'clock,
P. M. The fine extensive village of Sherewele, almost de-
stroyed by the flames, which had spread with great fury,
accelerated by a high wind, fell into our hands without
opposition, although every house was capable of a sturdy
defence, and it had a very thick hedge all round it.

92 MILITARY [A.D.

The Murdoo's Palace, and that of Shevatatomby, were
conspicuous for neatness more than grandeur, and though
small, were extremely solid and well built. The streets,
one of which had an avenue in it, were broad and regular,
and the whole town claimed a superiority over any I had
ever seen in India.

SHEREWELE JUNGLE.

On the 31st of July commenced our operations in the
Sherewele, or rather Calliacoile Jungle, one of the thickest
and most impenetrable in the Carnatic. Our Pioneers, and
the wood-cutters from the Tondiman's country, amounting
to about two thousand men, under cover of two hundred
Europeans, the Malay riflemen, &c. with two six-pounders,
marched from the park at ten o'clock, A. M. and returned at
five, P. M. having cut a broad road of one mile and a half, in
the direction of Calliacoile. A few of the enemy who sud-
denly appeared in front of the Europeans and Malays,
were fired at and ran off, which was the only shew of op-
position this day.

On the 1st of August Major Sheppard set out at day-
light, at the head of a foraging party, with cavalry and
field-pieces, and went to a village about two miles to the
right, where he fell in with a few hundreds of the enemy,
encamped on the skirts of the jungle, who fired and de-
camped, leaving a small tent, some bullocks, and grain,
behind them. The village afforded abundance of forage ;
and the party returned to camp without loss. The Pioneers
and wood-cutters also resumed their labours this morning,
covered by a detachment under Major M'Lcod ; they cut

3 Can'pfromSo'Juiy

Shiriu&li

PLAN OF A MONIH S OPHRATIONS IN SIIEREWELE JUNGLE.

1801.] REMINISCENCRS. 95

three quarters of a mile, and returned in the evening, with
only two men killed, after much firing on both sides.

August 2nd. — The same working party went out, covered
by one hundred and fifty Europeans, the Malay marksmen
&c. under Major James Graham ; but no sooner had they
reached the end of the road, unlimbered the guns, and
sent out flanking parties, than a fire commenced from the
jungle; and the Malays being beset, ran in towards tlic
Europeans in the centre, who could not prevent two of
them being killed close to the gun. Ensign Goupil, on
the other flank, was also attacked at the same time ; and
though his party behaved most gallantly, yet they were
also driven back again. One man, who was killed with
Goupil, fired his master's pistol at one of the enemy and
then threw it in his face, calling out " Am6kah,am6kah ! " *
The Ensign was himself assailed by two pikemen at once,
but defended himself so well, that though his clothes were
pierced through in several places, he came off" unhurt, and
being joined by a Malay Captain and five or six others,
made good his retreat, though surrounded by the enemy .f

* The word Ani'bkdh, in the Malay language, means kill; and it is
always used by them in action.

f This officer, a Frenchman by birth, was a Royalist, and consequently
an emigrant. An accomplished gentleman, and truly brave soldier, he
had previously served as a Captain of cavalry in the unfortunate cam-
paign under the Duke of Brunswick. Being on a visit to Major
Macaulay, when the rebellion broke out, he immediately volunteered
his services; and being totally unprepared for taking the field, he
shared my tent, living, as all the staff did, with the Major, till after the
fall of Punjalumcoorchy, when he obtained an Ensigncy in the Malay
corps belonging to Ceylon. Of a slender and delicate frame, his chival-
rous spirit frequently led him into dangers, apparently beyond his

96 -MILITARY [A.D.

It was now determined, that in order to enable the Malays
to stand their ground, under such circumstances, they
should be armed with short spears as well as rifles; and as
they were individually able-bodied and brave men, they
would thus be more than a match for their opponents. In
their own country they have matchlocks and daggers, the
latter called a creese, being by far the most deadly weapon
of the two : whilst here, they had neither bayonet, sword,
nor dagger, to assist their old rusty arms. Of the enemy
only three bodies were left dead on the ground, and they
must have been hard pushed to leave them there. Our
working party was molested the whole of this day, but
without further injury than three Malays wounded. They
returned at three, P. M., after having cut six hundred
yards. Some of our followers venturing out too far, were
however killed and wounded, though they only thus met
the fate which their rashness seemed to have provoked.

On the 3rd the same working party, covered by a de-
tachment of Europeans and Malays, with four six-pounders,
under Colonel Dalrymple, again went out, and found the
Poligars had thrown up a breast-work, with one small gun,
in front of the road : but upon the Colonel ordering his

strength ; and he was endowed with such romantic notions of honour,
that when I came up to congratulate him on his wonderful escape, he
burst into tears, and exclaimed, " 0,mon ami ! J'ai perdu mon honneur !"
and while his conduct had been viewed with one general sentiment
of admiration by all who witnessed it, I had the utmost difficulty to
persuade him that he had well performed his duty ; and that no disgrace
could attach to the soldier, who, successfully defending himself against
such odds, had effected his retreat. He perished some years afterwards,
while nobly fighting in the disastrous expedition to Candy.

1801.] HKMINISCKNCES. 97

guns to be fired, before he sent forward any parties into the
jungle, his opponents inunediately fled, taking their cannon
with them. The bank was then taken without opposition, and
immediately demolished. The enemy fired briskly all day,
but with little damage, as we had only two men wounded.
After cutting four hundred and thirty yards, the whole re-
turned at half past four, P.M. The advantage of using
cannon instead of musquetry was to-day particularly evi-
dent, the latter being of little avail in such thick jungle.
Our opponents in great numbers, were, however, not idle
elsewhere, and they unfortunately succeeded in cutting off
some public cattle and followers in our rear. An uncle of
Woodia Taver came over to us this evening from the
enemy, with whom he held a post of confidence under the
Murdoo, which enabled him to i e his escape ; as he
commanded all the people posteu near our camp, to in-
tercept our communications. This man seemed to be
fully acquainted with the means and measures of the
chiefs he had betrayed, and gave Colonel Agnew much
useful information, respecting the state of the country, and
the mode of intended operations. A foraging party under
Colonel Innes went out, and returned empty-handed.

August 4th. — Our working party, with the usual detach-
ment under Colonel Innes, fell in with the enemy in force,
who had taken post in a trench, and gave a heavy fire :
they were, however, immediately charged and routed ;
leaving eighteen bodies on the ground. Three of the
wounded who were brought into the camp and dressed,
informed us, that all our principal opponents were in the
field, excepting the Wella Murdoo ; and were, by all

VOL. I. H

98 MILITARY [A.D.

accounts, so much astonished at the sudden attack on
their position, that they fled in all directions. The other
parties, who used to take up different positions round our
encampment, left off firing early, having probably received
intelligence of the discomfiture of the main body. At
five, P.M. the party returned, having cut five hundred and
eighty yards, and discovered a small tank of water in the
jungle to the left, and found many dead bodies of the
enemy, with broken pikes, &,c., which they had abandoned
in their flight. Our loss this day was four Europeans and
nine natives, killed and wounded. A foraging party under
Major Graham brought in abundance of supphes.

On the 5th, our working party, covered by an escort
under Major Sheppard, met with little opposition, and cut
four hundred and forty yards ; the jungle getting evi-
dently thicker and harder to be cleared. Only one man
wounded.

August 6th, the detachment accompanying our working
party, was commanded by Major Graham, who found a
high bank, at the end of the road cut the day before, had
been scooped out and formed into a cover for a large body
of the enemy, where they had thrown across three separate
hedges, and got four guns to bear from it upon the road.
This post they defended with great resolution, and killed
and wounded many of our men, whose determined braveiy,
however, nothing could repel, and their opponents were at
length put to flight. Their constant habit of dragging
away their dead and wounded upon all occasions, where
they were not too closely pursued, led us to suppose their
loss to have been considerable, as their blood could be

1801.] IM'MINlSC^liNCKS. 99

traced in every direction through the surrounding jinigle.
Our loss was also very great ; but after the bank was
stormed and taken, the work proceeded without oj)position,
and by the evening we had cut two hundred and thirty-
seven yards.

August 7th. — A foraging party under Lieutenant-colonel
Dalrymple obtained a large quantity of straw without
opposition. The working party under Major M'Leod
being heard firing for upwards of an hour. Lieutenant
Little was sent out with a detachment to bring away the
wounded. He returned with the pleasing intelligence, that
not a man had been seriously hurt, though the bank was
again defended, and again stormed. It was at length
taken in flank, but the enemy succeeded in carrying off
their guns, and all their killed and wounded. The jungle
was so impenetrable, that only one party under Lieutenant
King gained their flank in time ; another, despatched in
the opposite direction, under Major M'Pherson, did not
arrive till some time afterwards, or they would have
secured the enemy's guns. No further opposition was
offered, and the party returned, after having cut about
three hundred and fifty yards.

On the 8th, the foraging party under Major Sheppard
again brought in a considerable quantity of straw ; and by
the covering party under the command of Lieutenant
Colonel Dalrymple, the bank was found again raised,
hedged, and defended, and was again gallantly taken in
flank. The right party alone, however, under Lieutenant
Fletcher, put the enemy to flight; since the left division
did not arrive in time, on account of the thickness of the

100 MILITARY [A.D.

jungle. The Poligars, on finding themselves likely to be
outflanked, fired a volley down the road, which did no
damage, and absconded. Considering the strength of
their position, our loss was very small. The Pagoda of
Caliacoile, to which we were working, was this day dis-
tinctly seen by the covering party, who returned after
cutting five hundred yards.

On the 9th, our working party was commanded by
Major Sheppard, who changed his mode of attack, by
opening all the guns, and throwing a few shells into the
work, by which plan he took possession, without the loss
of a man. In consequence of the very powerful and
repeated impediments to our speedy advance, which this
bank had already thrown out, we were to day ordered to
fortify it as a post ; and by the evening therefore, a toler-
able field redoubt for three hundred men, and three guns,
was completed and occupied before we came away, by a
fresh party from the camp, under Colonel Innes. It was a
square of thirty yards, the south face being on the bank
towards Caliacoile, with an enormous tamarind-tree, of
such dimensions that we could not cut it down, close to it ;
from whence both Sherewele and Caliacoile were clearly
visible.

August 10th. — Colonel Innes commanded the covering
party, which experienced no opposition, and cut five hun-
dred yards. This day we had intelligence that Captain
Blackburn with supplies and a small force on it's way to
join us, had been obhged to take post at Ardengah, twenty-
five miles to the north-east, not being sufficiently strong
to force his way to the camp. Major M'Pherson, with

1801.] RliMlNlSCENCES. 101

one hundred Europeans and two hundred Sepoys took post
in the redoubt.

On the 1 1th, a foraging party under Colonel Dalryniple,
returned unmolested with abundance of provender; and
the working party, under Major M'PhersOn, had only a
slight opposition, and cut four hundred and fifty yards.
From the appearance of Caliacoile Pagoda, it was con-
jectured to be only one mile and a half from the end of
the road.

On the 12th, the working party under Lieutenant-colonel
Dalrymple met with little opposition, and cut about four
hundred and fifty yards. There was a good deal of firing
at our picquets, but without injury; and from the very
heavy thunder storms, with rain, from the south-eastward,
we sent out an old officer's tent to secure the arms of the
men in the advanced redoubt.

On the 1 3th, a foraging party under Major Sheppard, with
our Eteapoor allies, went about eleven miles to the north-
westward, and were attacked on the march by the enemy,
who were so very daring as to seize some of our straggling
camp followers, and taking advantage of the banks, &,c.
kept up a constant fire, till the Major charged them with
the Europeans, flanked by the cavalry, and drove them off.
The cavalry, however, served for shew only, as the ground
would not admit of their acting. At length the enemy,
becoming more cautious, attacked the Eteapoorians only,
who behaved with great spirit and steadiness, and though
far outnumbered, repulsed them every time, having the
advantage of our ammunition, which was served out to
them. Of the enemy, we calculated that at least two

102 MILITARY [A.D.

hundred were killed and wounded, for they even came
close to our guns, which were by no means idle. Lieute-
nant Graham of the Bengal artillery, and Major Sheppard's
orderly, each shot a man within fifty paces ; and the Sepoys
frequently fired by platoons, when crowds were opposed to
them. The working party, under Major M'Leod, had little
opposition, and cut two hundred and fifty yards ; the jungle
getting thicker, and the trees harder, as they advanced.

August l4th.— The working party, covered as usual,
under Colonel Innes, cut three hundred and fifty yards,
and saw the Pagoda very distinctly, only about one mile
distant. We had a great deal of firing during the night,
but without injury on our side.

On the 15th, the working party, under Major Sheppard,
on their arrival at the end of the road, returned a can-
nonade from three guns, which we could not see, but which
had been admirably brought to bear upon it ; while at the
same time, a heavy and constant fire of musquetry, match-
locks and jingalls, was kept up from bpth flanks and rear ;
but being ill levelled, the balls mostly flew over our heads.
After some delay, therefore, finding that, the enemy having
at length got the exact range, it was impossible to per-
suade the wood-cutters to work ; and aware, also, that his
force was not sufficient to cover them, and dislodge our
opponents, the Major resolved to return to the redoubt, to
save the lives of his men. We subsequently ascertained
that the shot from their guns proceeded from a spot about
two hundred yards to the right ; and we did not return to
camp until relieved at the redoubt in the evening.

On the 16th, the working party under Major M'Leod,

1801,] RKMINISCENCES. 103

advanced in two columns, without guns, and penetrated
with difficulty to the front of the bank, from whence the
enemy had fired the day before ; but found it fortified so
strongly, both by nature and art, that after a long struggle,
in which only a few of our men could advance at a time,
and during which they were exposed to a heavy fire, with-
out seeing their opponents, the enterprise was abandoned.
It proved to be a high bank, sloped down with a thick
abattis, and thorns scattered at some distance in front,
from which the guns still continued to impede the work.

August 17th. — Neither our foraging or working parties
in Sherewele met with any opposition. The other work-
ing party in advance was formed into t\\ o columns, one of
which proceeded direct, while the other, composed of one
hundred and sixty Europeans, and four hundred Sepoys,
cut a small road, about one thousand two hundred yards,
to the right, and then returned. The first, remaining in
the high road, kept up a constant fire of cannon till the
other came back ; when getting a report that all their
water was expended. Major M'Pherson determined to re-
tire, having already sent the Pioneers, 8cc. back to camp,
under an escort of Sepoys. It rained very heavily during
the march of this small party, and I think it very lucky that
the enemy were content to use the weapon least adapted
to their knowledge and abilities, fire-arms ; with which,
though they made a great noise, they did little execution.

On the 18th, our working and covering parties, under
Colonel Innes, followed the small road made the day pre-
ceding, and cut five hundred yards further, where, cross-
ing a high bank, they were exposed to a heavy fire.

104 MILITARY [A.D.

without seeing their opponents : several men were killed
and wounded here, and Colonel Innes himself had a very
narrow escape.

On the 19th, Colonel Agnew having determined to take
the enemy's cannon, a select party was formed under
Captain Weston, composed of about eight hundred men,
Europeans and Sepoys, with two six-pounders, and some
Pioneers, under Captain Bagshaw and Lieutenant Gordon.
We pursued the same route which Colonel Innes had
gone the day before ; and being ordered to avoid the bank,
from which he had been so much annoyed, cut off nearly
south-east, about two hundred yards to the left, and came to
a bank about sixty yards onward. It was here the enemy
first shewed signs of disputing the road with us, and Captain
Weston accordingly posted one of our guns upon it ; mov-
ing forward the rest as fast as the Pioneers could cut, which,
from the extreme density of the jungle, was a work of much
time and labour. Whilst we were thus occupied, the
enemy fired several sarabogies,^ evidently as signals for
the assemblage of their whole force in our neighbourhood,
since all remained peaceable for the ensuing quarter of an
hour. At length, at about half past ten, a tremendous
firing opened all round us, and we could not perceive one
of our opponents, although evidently within a few yards of
them. Having ascertained, however, that they were still
advancing on our right flank, our men were formed four
deep, facing outwards, with a gun on each flank, and oc-
cupying the whole road. When we could perceive them

* A species of park guns, for firing salutes at feasts &c., but not used
in war.

1801.] REMINISCENCES. 105

within ten yards, our tiring commenced, the infantry all
sitting, by which plan many lives were saved, and more
damage done to the deluded crowds, who thus hemmed us
in, for their own destruction. Screams and groans suc-
ceeded, but the firing still continued on their side, for
about twenty minutes, when all was hushed, and we
pushed on, and gained another broad and high bank,
covered with jungle. Here Captain Weston consulted
the other officers, as to the propriety of moving further in
such ground, still uncertain where the guns might be, for
which we had ventured so far ; when it was determined,
as we should by advancing, give the enemy time to occupy
the road we had left, that we should return forthwith.
We had then only cut about one hundred and fifty yards
the whole morning, and the guns, as far as we could pos-
sibly ascertain, instead of being as we had expected, on our
left flank, were about six hundred yards in our front. At
noon, therefore, we commenced our retrograde movement,
and in two hours reached Colonel Dalrymple and the
working party, a few hundred yards in front of the re-
doubt. Mortal men could hardly have done more than
this small party, but Colonel Agnew, confidently calculat-
ing on the capture of the enemy's guns, and thereby
shortening the labour and time of our advance on the new
capital of our extraordinary opponents, was by no means
pleased or satisfied with our return. Of the enemy who
were opposed to us, and who were probably from fifteen to
twenty thousand men, numbers must have been destroyed ;
while our loss was only one man killed and four wounded.
Colonel Dalrymple with the working and covering party in

106 MILITARY [A.D.

the main road, who were waiting for our signal of the
capture of the invisible battery, to push on and join us
there, of course returned disappointed. We had very
heavy rain after we got home.

August 20th. — A foraging party under Major M'Leod,
went a long way to the eastward, and returned at noon
with abundance of supplies. They saw several tents
pitched in the jungle, but met with no opposition. We
had no working party out to-day, but Major Sheppard
with one hundred Europeans and five hundred Sepoys,
was at the redoubt from sun-rise till evening : nothing of
any consequence was done, and there was little firing,
excepting at our outposts.

On the 21st, a working party under Major Sheppard,
cut a road to the left, thirty feet broad and two hundred
long, opposite to the former one to the right. There was
a good deal of firing without much damage, and we had as
usual, a heavy rain in the evening.

On the 22nd, a foraging party under Major Sheppard
went out ten miles, and returned with plenty of straw : the
enemy accompanied us at a little distance, fired a great
deal, but did little mischief. The working party under
Major M'Pherson did but little work, and we had again a
very wet evening.

August 23rd. — Colonel Innes's detachment, with all the
cavalry, marched towards Tremium, to bring stores, 8ic.
to the camp, which were now much wanted ; a large
tappall* was despatched with them, the first we had been

* The Post throughout the Madras Presidency is designated Tappall ;
at Bengal and Bombay it is styled Dawk ; and travelling expeditiously
is therefore called going by Tappall, or by Dawk.

1801,] RKMINlSCliNCKS, 107

able to send since we left Ookoor, being completely sur-
rounded, and our communication entirely cut oft' for the
last twenty-five days. By this opportunity also. Lieu-
tenant-colonel Dalrymple, Major Grant, Doctor Tait, and
Lieutenant Campbell, being all on the sick list, got per-
mission to quit the camp. A covering party under Cap-
tain N. M. Smith went out and cleared the ground round
our post, and another smaller redoubt, about twenty paces
by fifteen, was also constructed at the commencement of
the road leading to the jungle, for a company to keep up
the communication with the advanced redoubt. The camp
was likewise removed about six hundred yards nearer
Sherewele, the Pagoda of which had been carefully forti-
fied, and throwing back the wings, it formed a paral-
lelogram, having the village for one face, exactly in the
rear of the centre. At about half past ten the enemy
opened three guns upon us, from a bank to the left of the
old ground, formerly occupied by a picquet s:;uard, but the
shot fell mostly short, and before a party could assemble to
take the battery by storm, the guns were silenced and
withdrawn.

On the 24th, a working party under Major Sheppard,
cleared away some more ground round the redoubt, and
returning in the evening, were fired on from both sides
of the road. We had taken out with us a light gun in-
vented by Captain Sadler, not being accustomed to it's
management, one of our own Pioneers was killed by the
first discharge. The gun was consequently condemned
by all hands, and consigned to oblivious silence for ever
afterwards.

108 MILITARY [A.D.

On the 25th the jungle party under Major M'Pherson
worked near the redoubt, and in the evening the redoubt
party was attacked on both sides of the road ; the enemy
being more daring than usual, even came into the road, in
front and rear, where they kept up a heavy fire, whilst the
working party was also fired upon on it's return to the
camp. One of the Poligars was killed by our gun, in the
road, close to him, and though he was cut through, yet
his companions carried him off.

On the 26th, nothing particular occurred ; and on the
27th, two working parties v/ere employed in the jungle,
in front and to the north ; whilst a detachment under Major
Sheppard marched to reinforce Colonel Innes, and bring
him and his supplies safe into camp. We reached Trip-
patore, fourteen miles distant, at seven, P.M. and slept on
our arms.

On the 28th, a firing in the direction of Tremium
warned us of Colonel Innes's approach, and we accord-
ingly proceeded to join him ; but receiving orders to re-
turn and secure the Fort of Trippatore as expeditiously
as possible, the Major, leaving a detachment with Colonel
Innes, made a dash, and regained it before the enemy's
arrival. Our whole force then encamped in and about
the old fort ; where the heavy rain in the evening kept us
all on the alert.

On the 29th we marched at day-break, our detachment
forming the rear-guard. We had much skirmishing on
the road, but reached the village of Pattimungulum in
good time, and encamped close to it ; taking advantage of
some banks in the neighbourhood.

1801.] RKMINISCRNCRS. 109

As this was the last opportunity the enemy could have
of preventing the junction of our much-wanted supplies,
the morning of the 30th of August found us forming the
rear-guard, as before, and the enemy at their posts on the
road, to impede our advance. Indeed, every thing that
undisciplined savages could do, was attempted on this oc-
casion : they lined every bank and eminence on both sides
of our march, and one party was no sooner beaten, than
another appeared. Still their efforts fell far short of what
might have been expected ; and we now began to suspect
our old opponents, Catabomia Naig and his dumb cousin,
with the Panjalumcoorchy Poligars, were either absent or
destroyed in the previous actions. Their numbers and
perfect knowledge of the ground gave them great advan-
tages over us, who had to protect a very large convoy,
and also Woodia Taver, a new chief, who was to be set up
in place of the Murdoos. The Scotch brigade formed the
advanced guard, and the principal work of the day fell to
them, and to our party in the rear ; who were constantly
engaged from day-light till half-past twelve, when we
reached the camp at Sherewele. It had now become
common for any party of our's, however few, to dash at
any number of the enemy, who appeared near enough, and
quite as usual, for them to run away : their guns they
were very careful to keep out of our reach ; and though
they never fired harder than in this skirmish, yet the
killed and wounded of all descriptions on our side did not
exceed forty or fifty men. Many of their balls, also, were
made of pewter, which hit without hurting severely. The
weather being extremely sultry, the one thousand four

110 MILITARY [A.D.

hundred gallons of arrack, three thousand bullocks' loads
of rice, and various other supplies which were received
by this convoy, were most welcome reinforcements.

In the evening the new sovereign of this country,
Woodia Taver, paid his first visit to Colonel Agnew, ac-
companied by an elder brother and an old Brahmin ; when
after mutual compliments, he returned to his own tent,
pitched in our head-quarter hne. He was a good-looking
man, but discovered considerable embarrassment and want
of familiarity with that dignity to which chance and the
British Government had so unexpectedly raised him. He
appeared very grateful for the attentions he received ; and
whatever the motives of others might be in this elevation,
we gave him credit for sincerity, in his appreciation of our
exertions to raise him from obscurity and penury, to the
rank of a Prince, and the revenues of a kingdom.

It was to-day resolved to quit this place, without further
prosecuting our attempt to reach Caliacoile, from the Sher-
wele side ; and the rejoicing was unanimous, at the pro-
spect of leaving a place which had been the grave of so
many of our brave comrades. Even the honour which
we lost, in abandoning the labours of a whole month, was
forgotten, in viewing the comparative facility which the
opposite direction held out. Our camp had become sickly,
and many were suffering from diarrhoea and dysentery ;
indeed, both officers and men bad died of this vile scourge ;
while even those who continued to enjoy good health,
were heartily sick of a standing camp, in a spot entirely
devoid of vegetation or verdure, where the only green that
met the eye was the impenetrable forest, in which we had

1801.] REMINISCENCES. Ill

been foiled by cowards ; of such a persevering nature,
however, that although beating them every hour, they had
succeeded so completely to surround us, that we could
neither send a letter, nor receive one, even from Pallam-
cottah, for a whole month. Many attempts had been made
to elude their vigilance, but I believe every one failed.
I had myself given a friendly Poligar, who, knowing the
people and every inch of the country, had volunteered the
adventure, an advance of five pagodas, with one small
letter ; and he was on delivery to have received a similar
sum, equal in the whole to four pounds sterling ; and to
my shame and sorrow, 1 afterwards learned, that though
he set out in a dark night, he was discovered and put to
death, within a few miles from our camp.

August 31st. — A foraging party, under Major M'Leod,
went out about twelve miles, and returned almost empty-
handed. They were fired at on their way back, and had
four men killed and wounded.

On the 1st of September, a working party was sent out,
with the usual escort, to destroy all our thirty-two days'
handiwork in the jungle, which they fully accomplished, by
demolishing the redoubts, and burning all the brush-wood
in their neighbourhood ; and returned with the out-guards
to camp, without opposition.

On the morning of the 2nd of September, our whole force
marched to Ookoor, from whence we had advanced in the
end of June, and arrived there by noon, without molest-
ation. Here the head men of some of the neighbouring-
villages came in, and paid their respects to the new
sovereign ; and some villagers also brought fowls and eggs.

112 MILITARY [A.D.

and claimed immunity and protection. I strongly suspect
a majority of our late opponents in the jungle were people
of this description ; enticed away from a life of quiet indus-
try to the more gaudy and unprofitable profession of arms,
by exaggerated accounts of the delights of rapine and
pillage.

1801.] RKMINISCENCKS. 113

CHAPTER IV.

Co/itiititatiun of the Poli^ur War — ■ hiauiiurutioii of Woodia Tuver —
Captwe of the Temple of Perulnnallee — The Pagoda of Culiacoile,
I "elli Murdoo and Cheercu Murdoo, the Rebel Chief n — Their Capture
and Fate.

POLIGAR WAR.
Our main force remaining encamped at Ookoor, on the
morning of the 3rd of September, a foraging party went
out under Captain Charles Trotter, and returned with
abundance. Another party, as an escort to Colonel Agnew
and staff, marched through a broad road in low jungle, to
a large village, called Sholaveram, three miles south-south-
west of our camp ; having a capital Pagoda at it's north-
western extremity, and the ruins of a square mud fort,
within two hundred yards of it. The Pagoda wall was
strong and perfect, forming a square of from forty to fifty
yards, and twelve feet high. To the north-east, and partly
south, was clear ground for nearly a mile in extent, having
the famous city of Naulcot.tah at the other extremity of
the south face, which is consequently a mile off. The
ancient sovereigns of this country, now called Marrawah,
were originally styled Naulcottah Rajahs; and it is still
supposed that the sanction and patronage of the head men

114 MILITARY [A.D.

of this now insignificant village, is necessary to any Rajah
of this extensive country.

Woodia Taver, styled by the Madras government the
" Zemeendaar of Shevagungah," having received the
homage' of these king-makers this day, they promised
to bring all the inhabitants back to their houses, and
Captain Smith being left with two companies to garrison
the Pagoda, we returned to camp ; though another party,
sent in the evening to relieve him, was fired upon, on the
march back, but had only one man wounded.

September 4th. — Intelligence being received that the
enemy occupied a village in force, about two miles to the
right. Major Sheppard was ordered out with a party to
dislodge them. We marched at day-light, and were imme-
diately met by the Poligars, whom we successively charged
from two banks, and pursued to the skirts of the jungle.
In the village, which they politely relinquished at our
approach, we found a large supply of grain, which the
detachment eftectually covered, until cattle were brought
to remove it ; which being effected by noon, we returned
to camp. Colonel Innes's detachment moved their ground
to Sholaveram, where they encamped, to cover the work-
men ordered to strengthen and fortify the Pagoda.

On the -Sth we lost Lieutenaat Scott of the Artillery, a
remarkably fine young man, and an excellent officer ; and
on the 6th a foraging party brought in some supplies.

September 9th. — Major Graham marched at day-light
for Madura, with the sick and wounded men and officers ;
and here I took leave for ever, in this world, of one of the
warmest-hearted and kindest souls I ever knew, poor

1801.] REMINISCENCES. 115

James Graham ; who, though himself hovering on the very
brink of the grave, would not consent to quit the field,
until Colonel Agnew, to save his life, put him in orders to
command this detachment. He had joined the army in a
very weak state, contrary to medical advice, and having
commanded the party which met with such unlooked-for
and serious resistance from the enemy on the 6th of Au-
gust, it had preyed on a mind of the keenest sensibility ;
although every man gave him full credit for a display of
heroism and science, little to be expected in an invalid;
and to his great personal exertions on that occasion may
also be attributed that increase of nervous debility, which
so speedily terminated a life of glory, and deprived the
Madras army of one of it's best officers.

Of all the superstitions of the East, that of regulating
movements of consequence, by attention to particular local
positions, and the observation of what are called lucky
days, and even hours, is the most ridiculous, and is too
often attended with the most injurious consequences;
though on the present occasion, however, nothing disas-
trous occurred. The Brahmins in our camp and vicinity
having fixed on the 12th of September, as an auspicious
day, for the inauguration of the new Sheragar of Sheva-
gungah, his Highness Woodia Taver rose with the lark,
adorned himself like a peacock, and moved in state to the
Pagoda of Sholaveram, escorted by the staff", and the
2nd battalion of the 6th regiment ; where, having various
religious ceremonies to perform, we left him till noon, when
Colonel Agnew and staff, in full costume, proceeded with
I 2

116 MILITARY [A.D.

an escort of cavalry, first to Colonel Innes's camp, where
he joined the cavalcade, and thence to the Pagoda ; at the
gate of which Woodia Taver's tent was pitched, with a
temporary pandall for our reception. The embryo digni-
tary having met us here, Colonel Agnew, after the custom-
ary salutations, presented him with a superb dress ; at
the same time giving his brother a similar one, but of
much less value. They then retired into the tent, and
shortly afterwards the cavalry having been drawn up,
with a Howdah elephant, and military band, the great
men returned, dressed in their robes of honour, when
they were greeted by a concatenation of sounds, pro-
duced by our band, in conjunction with various native
musical instruments ; in which the warlike collery-horn and
noisy tomtom, were the most conspicuous for execution.
On their arrival at the front of the pandall. Colonel Agnew
on his right, and Colonel Innes on his left, handed the
Rajah in, and seated him on a carpet in the centre, with
his brother on his left hand ; when, our chairs being placed
in a semi-circle, we all sat down opposite to them. All
being at length adjusted, and silence obtained, a matter of
considerable difficulty, a scribe read aloud the proclama-
tion of Government, announcing the appointment of the
said " Woodia Taver," to be '' Zemeendaar of the Sheva-
gungah districts.'' Then, handing the deed to Colonel
Agnew, he folded it up, and presented it, with an appro-
priate and congratulatory speech, to the new Zemeendaar,
who expressed his gratitude in a very eloquent and feeling
reply. A salute of eleven guns was then fired, and the two

1801.] RK>nNISCENCES. 117

Colonels liaving handed the Prince into his howdah,* the
officers all re-mounted, and the cavalry formed an advanced
and rear-guard, with drawn swords, having the elephant
and staff in the centre. The procession then started, with
a flourish of trumpets and a march from the band ; the
native music struck up, and a peal of shouts and shrieks
from all the Poligar and collery attendants rent the air.
After passing all round the Pagoda and camp, the caval-
cade stopped at the exact spot from whence it set out, and
Woodia Taver was again handed into the pandall by the
two Colonels. The new Prince was actually overpowered
with gratitude ; I saw a tear run down his cheek, and all
at once, unable any longer to suppress his honest feelings,
he arose, threw himself at Colonel Agnew's feet, and em-
braced his knees ; whilst his brother, by a simultaneous
movement and feeling, embraced the knees of Colonel
Innes.

The scene had now become truly interesting, and I must
own I felt a sensation almost amounting to regret, when it
was concluded, by our taking leave and retiring. Tlie
Zemeendaar remained, to receive the homage of the few of
his future subjects who had come over to our side; and at
five, P. M. he came back to camp, with his original escort.

On the 14th of September, Lieutenant-colonel Spry
returned to camp, in command of the 1st battalion of the
4th, and 2nd battalion of the 13th, from Madura, bringing
abundance of supplies, both public and private ; having

* A carriage, or litter of various dimensions, fitted on the back of an
elephant for the accommodation of Princes, or great natives ; in courts,
it is the state-carriatre of the Sovereign.

118 MILITARY [A.D.

left the cavalry at Vellatore, with Captain Trotter, and the
Eteapoor allies, to bring on our long intercepted Tappall.
Captain Whitlie, of the Malay corps, and Lieutenants
Fletcher and Vigo, having recovered of their wounds, with
a few recovered men, also rejoined us by this opportunity.
It having rained hard every evening since the 6th, the tanks
were filled, and the country all round began to assume a
verdant aspect. Lieutenant Dewlin, of the Malay corps,
died this day of dysentery.

On the 15th, Lieutenant Pepper, with two companies of
infantry, was sent to join Captain Trotter, who was ordered
to proceed at night to Keelvelavoo, to surprise a head
collery at that village ; whilst at the same time Captain
Chambers was despatched to seize another chief, and an-
other village, in the same neighbourhood, both parties
uniting after the service should be performed.

On the 16th, we received accounts that they had entered
the villages at midnight and seized some prisoners, who
were sent to camp, but that the head men, having been
apprised of the approach of our detachments, by lights
and fires all along the direction they were marching, had
effected their escape.

PERAHMALLEE.
September 17th. Our two companies under Lieutenant
Pepper returned to camp ; and Colonel Agnew having de-
termined on paying a visit to Perahmallee, a detachment
marched at day-light, and joining Captain Trotter's party,
at Vellatore, now under the command of Major Doveton,
promoted while out, and superseding him accordingly,

1801.] REMlNISCIiNCES. 119

moved on to Mellore, where we encamped. The road from
Vellatore to within a mile of Mellore was through a jungle,
three miles in length, and at this time completely under
water ; the total distance being fifteen miles and a half.
We struck out tents at ten, P. M., and marched at eleven ;
the first two miles were passable enough, after which we
had to wade through a continued sheet of water, partly
tanks, and partly heavy paddy ground ; in short, having
lost our road when the moon set, it was by mere accident
that we stumbled on a strip of dry ground, barely sufficient
to draw out the whole detachment upon, and we slept there
from two o'clock till five in the morning of the 18th, when
we again set forward. It was with benumbed limbs that
we once more waded through mud and water, generally
three feet deep, dragging the guns ourselves where the
cattle were insufticient, till we arrived at a nice little dry
plain, close to the village of Singapadary, about four miles
and a half from the hill of Perahmallee. Having accom-
plished a night march of fourteen miles and a half, we
encamped, sending forward the cavalry and Tondiman's
Peons, to take the Pagoda, in which we were informed that
the enemy had left only twenty men. Captain Munro,
Brigade-major, and Mr. George Hughes, our intelligent
interpreter, put themselves at the head of the Peons, when
they came near the place, and encouraged them to ad-
vance; but, unluckily, they were not to be thus persuaded,
and the enemy, animated undoubtedly by their hesitation,
poured a fire of musquetry, which put a stop to the attack.
The cavalry gallopers were now brought into action, a few
discharges of which turned the scale ; for the enemy.

120 MILITARY [A.D.

abandoning their 'vantage ground, were perceived in full
retreat, while Captain Munro was creeping into the wicket,
followed by a very few, who, more from shame than cou-
rage, made a feint to back him. Thus came into our
hands, without loss, the far famed temple of Perahmallee,
and Colonel Agnew, proceeding to the place after break-
fast, gave us an opportunity of examining it as a military
post. I have seldom been more surprised than at the
appearance of this fortification, which had been always de-
scribed to us as a common Pagoda, surrounded by a simple
wall, of a foot or two in thickness, and fifteen or sixteen
feet high ; and even from Singapadary it looked like a
trifling choultry at the foot of a hill. On our approach, it
however gradually increased in respectability, and before
we reached the outer walls, we discovered that it was a
stone fort of considerable extent and elevation, though all
we could see from below was nothing, to what we found
on ascending to the interior.

It was a solid stone fort, embracing the declivity of a
rocky projection, nearly perpendicular, from a rugged and
lofty mountain ; it had two entire walls, and a fortified
pettah outside the whole ; each of the two outer places
was completely commanded by the walls of the inner one,
which was forty feet high, and perfectly impenetrable, being
cut out of the solid rock, with a mere parapet of stone,
added above the terre plein. There are tanks of water
within each wall, and a fine spring from the rocks in the
upper fort, with many strong and capital buildings in the
choultry form, in both forts ; and one in particular in the
upper, so connected with the rock, as not only to command

1801.] REMINISCRNCRS. 121

both forts, but every part of the pettah also, and a most
interesting and extensive view of the country for thirty
miles round. From this delightful spot we could distinctly
see the Pagodas of Coonagoody, Caliacoile, Trickatoor, and
Teroomallee, the Mellore Hills, and Annemallee, near Ma-
dura; but a range of adjoining hills prevented our seeing
Secundermallee and Allegerry. The mountain, or Pigeon
Hill, as it's name signifies, is immensely high and rugged,
and craggy to such a degree, that I do not think any man
could climb to the summit ; the fort is, indeed, so situated
under a projecting precipice, that little harm could be done
by an enemy, even bold enough to creep to the extremity ;
still there are three bluff-rocks, or large masses of stone, a
short way up, from whence sharp-shooters might annoy
the garrison of the lower fort and pettah ; which, though
perfectly accessible from the upper gate, appears tenable
by twenty or thirty men. Yet, were an enemy even des-
perate enough to attack this party, and overpower them,
they might still follow their opponents under cover to the
very gate, and if that were shut, being in security behind
a thin wall, of about twenty feet high, most injudiciously
built on the interior, and connecting it with the rocks, they
might then burn tlie back entrance, or even demolish the
wall ; this is a crisis, however, never likely to happen to
any party of British troops. Captain Charles Godfrey and
his three companies were left to garrison the place, along
with Captain W. Macaulay, and Lieutenants Powell, Bal-
main, Davis, and Hampton ; having already discovered a
depot of grain and other stores. We had one man killed
by a shot from the rocks ; but the enemy retreated imme-

122 MILITARY [A.D.

diately after firing, and did not again molest us; the
whole detachment, therefore, returned to the camp at
Ookoor, on the 21st of September.

On the 24th, the cavalry and Eteapooreans, with two
hundred infantry under Lieutenants Langford and Smith,
were sent to relieve Captain Godfrey at Perahmallee, who
was ordered to return to camp immediately, with a large
supply of grain collected at Nattam.

September 27th. — Captain Lang was ordered into gar-
rison at Fort Clive, or Nundycottah, as our men called it, a
field work built by Colonel Innes, whose nickname, was
Nundij, from his lameness ; and the rest of the force pre-
pared to make a new dash at Caliacoile.

On the 30th Lieutenant-colonel Spry was directed to
march at night with a detachment, by the old road to
Sherewele, and thence to proceed through the road we
cut in the jungle to Caliacoile. The remainder of the
troops were ordered to proceed in the morning, and Colonel
Innes's force to meet us by another route, from Sholaveram.
Captain Godfrey joined us at night.

CALIACOILE.

The dawn of the 1st of October saw us all advance by
three distinct routes, to the redoubted Caliacoile ; our ad-
vance being under the command of Major Sheppard. We
experienced no opposition for the first three miles, when we
arrived opposite a barrier of some strength, from which a
gun opened on our column. Captain Vesey was imme-
diately detached at the head of a party into the jungle to
take it in flank, whence the enemy were immediately dis-

PLAN OF CALIACOILE.

1801.] REMINISCENCES. 125

lodged, without the loss of a single life on our part, and
only Doctor Inglis,* our staff surgeon, and one pioneer
wounded. They then made no further show of resistance
until we came to a plain of wet paddy ground, fronting
Mootoor, from a high bank in which they commenced an
unavailing fire, but were soon put to flight, and appeared
no more all day. Our camp was pitched on a small spot
of dry ground, about a mile further on, nearly facing the
south-west, and the troops having rested a little and laid
aside their knapsacks, we pushed on to Caliacoile without
any further opposition, and found Colonel Spry and his
detachment in quiet possession. After dispersing a party
of the enemy near the place, he had taken post there at
eight, A. M. The road we now marched over was perfectly
good, and the barriers and thorns, although strewn pretty
thickly, could not have delayed us a day, had we advanced
in this direction three months sooner. Colonel Innes's
detachment having routed the enemy wherever they ap-
peared on his march, killed an hundred of them in one
tank, took possession of Calagoody about a mile from our
camp, near Mootoor, and then joining us, encamped upon
our left, facing to the west. We halted at Caliacoile for
about an hour, and then returned to camp in the evening,
having been altogether thirteen hours on our feet in a very
hot day.

* Mr. John Inglis was a man of sterling abilities ; with great activity
of body, he possessed a cheerfulness of disposition, suavity of manners,
and benevolence of mind, which endeared him to all who had the plea-
sure of his acquaintance. He has now long since passed " that bourne
from whence no traveller returns."

126 MILITARY [A.D.

The Pagoda of Caliacoile is a very large and handsome
building, surrounded by a strong stone wall, about eighteen
feet in height, and forming one angle of the fort, which
was nearly dismantled. The enemy seemed quite dis-
heartened and bewildered, by our different attacks at the
same moment, and hardly a soul appeared during the re-
mainder of the day. We found here twenty-one guns,
mostly mounted, and a great quantity of stores ; there
were also many articles of European furniture, and amongst
them, two clocks, and several pier glasses. The fort had
been well built and was extensive ; but the town, covered
by a thick hedge only, formed one face of it, and con-
tained many excellent houses. It had, indeed, never been a
place of very great strength ; but our local information
was never such as could be relied upon, and no European
in the camp knew any thing about the state of the country.
I had myself, to my shame be it mentioned, actually
passed through it, a few months before, and been enter-
tained by Wella Murdoo in his palace at Sherewele ; but
had not then the slightest idea of ever again entering it
much less as a foe. The Punjalumcoorchy men had been
driven to take up arms as their only resource ; but Murdoo
had no grievance to redress, so far as ever came within my
knowledge, and as his rebelhon was therefore gratuitous, I
could not feel so much for him as for the Cat. The people
of his country were also by no means equal to the others as
soldiers; had they been so, we should have had many
more difficulties to have surmounted : indeed, it is my
serious opinion, that twenty thousand Punjalumcoorcheers,
would have been invincible in his country.

1801.] REMINISCENCES. 127

October 2nd. — The detachment under Colonel Spry was
relieved by a brigade under Lieutenant Colonel Alexander
M'Leod, and the former returned to camp.

On the 3rd,* a division under Major Sheppard, marched
from camp at sun-rise, with orders to proceed, via Calia-
coile, to Mungalum, where it was understood we were to
meet a large body of the enemy. We arrived there, how-
ever, without opposition, at half-past two, P.M., and
formed our camp with the rear to the village, and an im-
mense tank in our front, on the bund, or bank, of which
our quarter-guards were posted. The villagers, on seeing
a white flag at our approach, came out to meet us, saying,
that Murdoo, with two thousand men, had been lately
there, but had retreated into the jungle ; and in the even-
ing the head men from nine villages came in to take
Cowle from Major Sheppard. The road from Caliacoile
to this place was entirely through jungle, in some parts
very thick ; and though hardly wide enough for carriages,
was in other respects very good, when we had removed the
thorns and milk hedges, which were occasionally thrown
across it. There was only one barrier on the skirt of the

* On this day, having had a dispute with my commanding officer, I
resigned my staff situation, and joined my corps ; but, in justice to
Colonel Agnewv who had ever been a kind friend to me, and who is
now no more, I must say, that he did all he could to make me retain
the Quarter mastership. Words had, however, passed in the heat of the
moment, to which I could not bring myself to be again subject. In a
few months afterwards our intimacy was renewed, and he was kinder to
me than ever, until the day of his lamented death. My always accom-
panying my own corps, when engaged with the enemy, was the cause of
our disagreement.

128 MILITARY [A.D.

jungle, about six furlongs from Mungalum, intended to
defend the approach from Ramnad ; and this our Pioneers
demohshed in about two hours, and then returned under
an escort to Caliacoile.

Colonel Agnevv having returned to Madras on the 4th
of October, we were again put under the orders of Major
Colin Macaulay, and remained inactive, waiting to hear
from him. The head men of fifty villages came in to-day
to take cowle, and brought intelligence that the Murdoos
had disbanded their forces ; and, with only two hundred
followers, had secreted themselves in the Shangrapoy
jungle. This we considered as very good news, for we
were not a little weary of such a tedious and unprofitable
warfare.

What followed afterwards, was, indeed, of little import-
ance, the enemy no where making head against us ; par-
ties were sent to hunt them down in the different jungles,
and I had the bad luck to be in full pursuit of one of the
Murdoos, for whom a large reward was advertised, when
a few of our ally Peons fired at, wounded, and took him,
close to our party ; thus depriving us of about ten thou-
thousand pagodas, or four thousand pounds sterhng. In
a few days both the Murdoos, with their families, Cata-
bomia Naig, Dalawai Pilly, and the Dumb Brother, were
all taken, and the men all hanged, excepting Dora-
Swamy, the youngest son of Cheena Murdoo, and Dallawai
Pilly, who, being of less consequence, were transported
for life to Prince of Wales's Island, with seventy of
their devoted followers ; and thus ended this most ha-
rassing warfare, in which the expenditure of life had been

1801.] RKMINISOKNCKS. 129

profuse, and the result any tlun<;- but honourable to the
survivors.

Of the two Murdoos, so frequently mentioned in this
narrative, the elder brother was called Wella, or VelU
Murdoo, but he had nothing to do with the management
of the country. He was a great sportsman, and gave up
his whole time to hunting and shooting. Being a man of
uncommon stature and strength, his chief delight was to
encounter the monsters of tlie woods ; and it was even
said, that he could bend a common Arcot rupee with his
fingers. Unencumbered with the cares or trappings of
government, he led a sort of wandering life ; and occasion-
ally visited his European neighbours at Tanjore, Trichi-
nopoly, and Madura, by whom he was much esteemed.
If any one wanted game, a message sent to Velli Murdoo
was sure to procure it ; or if he wished to partake in the
the sports of the field, Velli Murdoo was the man to con-
duct him to the spot, and to insure his success, as well as
to watch over his safety. Did a royal tiger appear, while
his guest was surrounded by hardy and powerful pikemen,
Velli Murdoo was the first to meet the monster and des-
patch him. A life such as this, although it may appear
idle and insignificant to those accustomed to the safety of
a well-regulated country, was very far from being without
it's usefulness, in a district overrun with jungle, and in-
fested by beasts of prey. The minor game was, however,
politely decoyed, or driven in front of his European friend,
who might thus, with less danger, kill hogs, elks, deer,
pea-fowl, Sec. in abundance. From this Oriental Nimrod
I had received many marks of attention and kindness,

VOL. I. K

130 MILITARY [A.D.

when stationed at Madura, in the year 1795, and then
one of the youngest subalterns in the place ; a pretty cer-
tain proof of his disinterestedness.

The Cheena Murdoo was the ostensible sovereign of an
extensive and fertile country, and his general residence was
at Sherewele. Though of a dark coinplexion, he was a
portly, handsome, and affable man, of the kindest manners,
and most easy access ; and though ruling over a people to
whom his very nod was a law, he lived in an open Palace,
without a single guard ; indeed, when I visited him in Febru-
ary, 1795, every man who chose to come in, had free
ingress and egress, while every voice called down the
blessing of the Almighty upon the father of his people.
From a merely casual visit, when passing through his
country, he became my friend, and during my continuance
at Madura, never failed to send me presents of fine rice
and fruit ; particularly a large rough-skinned orange,
remarkably sweet, which I have never met with in such
perfection in any other part of India. It was he, also,
who first taught me to throw the spear, and hurl the collery
stick, a weapon scarcely known elsewhere, but in a skilful
hand, capable of being thrown to a certainty to any dis-
tance within one hundred yards. Yet this very man, I
was afterwards destined by the fortune of war, to chase
like a wild beast ; to see badly wounded, and captured by
common Peons ; then lingering with a fractured thigh in
prison ; and lastly, to behold him, with his gallant brother,
and no less gallant son, surrounded by their principal
adherents, hanging in chains upon a common gibbet !

Of the Cat, I have already made mention, but I cannot

1801.] REMINISCENCES. 131

close this account of horrors, without a few words, in
memory of one of the most extraordinary mortals I ever
knew ; a near relation of Cdtaboniia Naig, who was both
deaf and dumb, was well known by the English under the
appellation of Duniby, or the Dumb Brother; by the
Mussulmans, as Mookah ; and by the Hindoos, as Oomee ;
all having the like signification. He was a tall, slender
lad, of a very sickly appearance, yet possessing that energy
of mind, which, in troubled times, always gains pre-emi-
nence ; whilst, in his case, the very defect which would
have impeded another, proved a powerful auxiliary in
the minds of ignorant and superstitious idolaters. The
Oomee was adored; his slightest sign was an oracle, and
every man flew to execute whatever he commanded. No
council assembled at which he did not preside ; no daring-
adventure was undertaken, which he did not lead. His
method of representing the English was extremely simple :
he collected a few little pieces of straw, arranged them on
the palm of his left hand to represent the English force ;
then, with other signs, for the time, Sec, he drew the other
hand across and swept them off, with a whizzing sound
from his mouth, which was the signal for attack; and he
was generally the foremost in executing those plans, for
our annihilation. Whatever undisciplined valour could
effect, was sure to be achieved wherever he appeared ;
though poor Oomee was at last doomed to grace a gal-
lows, in reward for the most disinterested and purest
patriotism. He had escaped, as it were, by miracle, in
every previous engagement, although every soldier in our
camp was most anxious to destroy so notorious and cele-
K 2

132 MILITARY [A.D.

brated a chieftain. On the 24th of May, when the fort
was wrenched from them, and the whole were retreating,
pursued by our cavalry, poor Oomee fell, covered with
wounds, near a small village, about three miles from Pun-
jalumcoorchy. As soon as our troops had returned from
the pursuit. Colonel Agnew instantly ordered the Etea-
pooreans to follow them till night, offering rewards for any
men of consequence, dead or alive. Our allies, conse-
quently, set out with great glee, somewhat late in the
evening ; and in the meantime, an appearance of quiet
induced some women of the village to proceed to the field
of carnage, in the hope of finding some of the sufferers
capable of receiving succour. Amongst the heaps of slain
they discovered the son of one of the party, still breathing,
and after weeping over him, they began to raise him up,
when exerting his little remaining strength, he exclaimed,
" Oh mother ! let me die, but try to save the life of
Swamy, who lies wounded near me." The word he used,
fully justifies my assertion of their adoration, as it's literal
meaning is a deity. The woman, animated by the same
feelings, immediately obeyed her dying son, and speedily
found Oomee, weltering in his blood, but still alive ; and
these extraordinary matrons, immediately lifted, and carried
him to the mother's house, where they were busily em-
ployed stanching his wounds, when they were alarmed by
a sudden shout from, the Eteapooreans, in pursuit. There
is nothing like the ingenuity of woman at such a crisis.
These miserable, and apparently half-imbecile creatures
conceived a plan, in an instant, which not only proved
successful, but most probably saved the lives of several

1801.] RKiMINISCHNCES. 133

others. They covered the body over with a cloth, and set
up a shriek of lamentation peculiar to the circumstances.
The Eteapooreans on their arrival, demanded the cause,
and being informed, that a poor lad had just expired
of the small-jiox, fled for their lives out of the village,
without ever turning to look behind them. I low he was
afterwards preserved, I could never learn ; but, certainly,
he was present, and as active as usual, on the 7th and 10th
of June; and was taken alive at the conclusion of the cam-
paign, and hanged along with his gallant and ill-fated
relation, on the tower we had erected in the plain, before
Punjalumcoorchy ; now the only monument of that once-
dreaded fortress, if we except the burying-ground of six
or seven hundred of our slaughtered comrades, in it's
vicinity.

No sooner was order again restored than the southern
corps returned to Pallamcottah ; and I was detached to
command Tutucorine, wither all the rebels destined for
transportation were sent in the first instance ; and there 1
had the melancholy satisfaction of lightening the chains of
Dora Swamy, the younger and only surviving son of my
poor quondam friend, Cheena Murdoo, a youth of about
fifteen, condemned to perpetual banishment. With a mild
and dignified resignation, this amiable young man bore his
cruel fate without a murmur ; but such was the melan-
choly expression in his fine countenance, that it was im-
possible to see and not commiserate him. As he was con-
signed to my personal charge, to connive at his escape was
impossible ; but being under the same roof with me, in the
laroe fortified factory, I was enabled to free him from his

134 MILITARY [A.D.

ignominious fetters, and separate him from the mass of his
former menials. His person was equally secure, in a com-
modious chamber, enjoying the company of his jailor and
family, and fed with wholesome meals, dressed by a re-
spectable man of his own caste and religion. A vessel
being commissioned by Government to carry the seventy
convicts to Penang, Lieutenant Rockhead of the 6th regi-
ment was appointed to command the escort. Whether
this appointment proceeded from the mere chance of rou-
tine, or from particular selection, I know not ; but never
could it have fallen on a man more fitted for the humane
and honourable discharge of such a duty. I had known
him intimately in the field, and he fortunately arrived in
time to become personally acquainted with the now-con-
demned sovereign of the country in which we had so lately
been employed. Captain Lee, who commanded the ship,
had also an opportunity of participating in our feelings
towards his future passengers, particularly the captive
Prince, while the requisite stores and provisions were col-
lecting and removing to the vessel.

Never shall I forget the day, when, on the wharf at Tu-
tucorine, I consigned my charge over to Lieutenant Rock-
head. I still seem to see the combination of affection and
despair which marked the fine countenance of my young
friend Dora Swamy, as I handed him into the boat ; and
the manly and silent misery, which his companions in
affliction displayed, on quitting their dear native land for
ever. Here, to all appearance, our acquaintance was to end ;
but fortune had still another pang in store for me, for being
forced to sea for my health, in the year 1818, and landing

1801.] REMINISCENCES. 135

at Penang, I received a sudden visit from a miserable de-
crepit old man : who, when, without the most distant recol-
lection of his person or countenance, I demanded his name
and business, looked for some time in my face, the tears ran
down his furrowed cheek, and at length he uttered the word
" Dora Swamy !" It came hke a dagger to my heart ; the
conviction was instantaneous. My poor young prisoner
stood before me ; changed, dreadfully changed in outward
appearance, but still with the same mind, and cherishing
the remembrance of former days and former friendships.
The casual hearing of my name had revived his affection,
and, I much fear, the mistaken hope, that an advancement
in rank might afford me the means of lessening his misery.
He even entreated me to be the bearer of letters to his
surviving family, but this I understood was contrary to the
existing orders ; since, though I found the Governor, the
late Colonel Bannerman, my former commanding officer,
kind and considerate, it did not appear to rest with him,
and I was compelled to dechne. Let me however, in con-
clusion, express a hope that this narrative may fall into the
hands of some kind-hearted Director of that honourable
Company, which I have served so long, and be the means
of alleviating, if not entirely removing the sufferings of an
innocent man ; the country being now completely settled,
and no chance of any ill effects, as regards state policy,
likely to accrue from such a compassionate measure.

136 MILITARY [A.D.

CHAPTER V.

Trunquebar — Cuddalore — Sadras — T/ie Garden of Saufghiir — The
M^/soi^e Country — Bangalore — Seringupatam — Troops for the Mah-
rattah War — Pooiiah — Capture of Ahmednugger.

TRANQUEBAR,
I NOW pass over a period of little interest, and proceed to
the month of August 1802, when going on furlough to
Bengal, I landed on the Danish settlement of Tranquebar,
situate on the coast of Coromandel, nearly equi-distant
from Pondicherry and Negapatam ; and only a few
miles from the English settlement of Nagore. The landing
here is much easier effected than at any other port on the
same coast, north of Tutucorine. The surf is in itself
trifling ; the boats are large and strongly built, consider-
ably longer than those of Masulipatam, Madras, or Pon-
dicherry ; and instead of running on the beach as at the
two latter, they enter a small creek which carries their
cargoes almost up to the town in smooth water. The
place is large, and was originally fortified ; the works,
however, are now much decayed, and could never have been
very formidable. They consist of a wall running into
sahent and re-entering angles, joined by curtains not

1802.] REMINISCENCES. 137

cannon-proof", and without any good bastions. There is a
small quadrangular citadel on the south-western angle,
much dilapidated by time and the spray of the sea, in
which is the council chamber, with a light-house and a
flag and signal staff erected on the roof. There are many
noble buildings in this town, but they are so jumbled
together in narrow streets, that the effect of their beauty
is entirely lost ; and the whole appears a confused mass of
pillars, doors, and windows, thrown together without either
order or system. They must consequently be exceedingly
close in such a climate, but most of the respectable in-
habitants have garden-houses outside, at the distance of
from one to three miles from the fort. Here I had an
opportunity of putting to the test the humanity of the
Danish Doctor named Folley : a servant having suffered
extremely from sea-sickness, was carried on shore and
kindly lodged in the house of a gentleman with whom I
resided ; when this medical gentleman paying a morning
visit there, I immediately entreated him to see the poor
dying native, which he positively refused, and abruptly
left me. It is to be hoped there are very few such Doctors
in Denmark. The servant died in the house.

An unfortunate jealousy of our nation, at this time,
rendered it unsafe for an Englishman to mix much with
the inhabitants, and some lives having been lost on both
sides, I studiously avoided all promiscuous intercourse ;
though on a former occasion, some years previous, I had
spent a few very pleasant days there. Provisions are both
reasonable and abundant ; but Tranquebar is not by any
means a desirable residence, from the extreme heat and
the nature of the soil.

138 MILITARY [A.D.

CUDDALORE,
On the sea-coast, fifty-eight miles by land north of Tran-
quebar, was once a place of considerable importance in
Eastern history, though now an insignificant spot, and
almost abandoned by the English. Colonel Dupont, an
old invalid officer, was in the nominal command, with a
few veterans as a garrison. The fortifications of this
place are nearly three miles in extent, entirely open to the
sea, there being on that face, a river and marshy ground
nearly impassable ; and the works then going to ruin,
appeared to have been pretty strong originally. The
houses in the interior are mostly small, and built by the
natives ; though about two miles distant outside, across a
river full of aUigators, there were some good English garden-
houses, near the high road to Pondicherry, which is distant
about sixteen miles.

Passing through Pondicherry, now considerably ad-
vanced in it's decline, we proceeded to Allumparva, an
insignificant village twenty-six miles further, where a
Portuguese hostess received guests at a very moderate
charge, and feasted them with oysters, so celebrated all
over the East, that in those days they were constantly sent
from hence to Pondicherry, and even to Madras. This
miserable hotel deserves especial mention, because it
was the second of two only, to be met with all over the
Carnatic : no such accommodations being customary in
the eastern roads. We next came, however, to the first
and best of these Oriental inns, at Sadras, distant twenty-
two miles further on the sea-coast, or low road to Madras.

1802.] RKiMINISCKNCKS. 139

SADKAS,
In it's present state, is a small Dutch town, very pleasantly
situated within a few hundred yards of the sea; the
ground being green and hard, which is a very uncommon
sight on this coast, and the air fresh and cool. There are
several neat and commodious houses on the sea-face, in one
of which lived Nona Mallee, or Miss Isaacks, one of the
greatest curiosities in the East. This enormous spinster
had formerly weighed twenty-one stone, but at this period
she was by severe illness reduced to fifteen ; and she
shortly after paid the debt of nature. Having relations at
Negapatam, she had occasionally performed the journey
in a palanquin made expressly for her use, and it was
asserted was then carried by no less than thirty-six bearers ;
while other Europeans had but twelve, and many a fat
Brahmin was actually moved about at the same rate by
four : the sacred character of the latter, no doubt lightening
his apparent weight ; but could an European mountain,
althou2;h a young one, which her native appellation indi-
cated, be carried by fewer sable and imbecile emmets?
This young lady kept the inn or hotel at Sadras, where
she lived well herself, and never starved her customers ;
but being in the habit of favouring them with her com-
pany at meals, the sight of her shrivelled form, her skin
hanging in flakes, for all the world like the hide of a
young rhinoceros, was not exactly calculated to improve
our appetites at the dinner table.

On a rising and commanding spot, close to the sea-
shore, stand the ruins of a regular square brick fort, the
curtains of which arc one liundred and fifty yards, and the

140 MILITARY [A.D.

bastions forty yards square. All the bastions have, however,
since been blown up, and time has otherwise dismantled
this fortress, once a complete model. I never saw finer
military buildings than it has contained : bomb-proof bar-
racks, guard-rooms, &c., with large magazines under each
bastion. In it I also discovered many handsome monu-
ments, one of which, without the slightest mark of decay,
had on it an inscription perfectly legible, dated in 1682,
being then one hundred and twenty years old.

I pass over both my journey to Madras, and voyage to
and from Calcutta, as containing nothing of an interesting,
or novel nature, and return to Vellore in January 1803,
whence I proceeded to Seringapatam, to join Major
General Wellesley's army, then about to take the field
against the Mahrattahs. From Vellore to Laulpett is
a distance of about thirty miles, where there is an excellent
choultry for the accommodation of travellers ; and within
a mile of it, is the famous garden of Sautghur, of consider-
able extent, and containing quantities of the finest fruit in
India. This garden, which was originally completely pro-
tected by numerous fortifications, had five hundred gar-
deners in regular pay, besides a large garrison to guard it ;
and, with the contiguoustown, avery fine one, is situated in
a valley, between a range of rugged hills, formerly fortified,
and the Ghauts, which separate the Carnatic from Mysore.
The term in Hindostanee, intimates the number of those
mountains ; saut meaning seven, and ghur a hill-fort.
These hill-forts were formerly garrisoned by the Nabob
Wallajah, to whom they belonged ; but were now aban-
doned and overgrown with rank jungle, whilst the garden,
still the property of the nominal successor, had about

1803.] REMINISCRNCES. 141

thirty gardeners only to keep a small part of it in order,
and transmit the produce to him at Madras. A considerable
quantity of both the attar and conserve of roses was made
here, but these two articles were kept exclusively for their
master ; though a large portion of the fruit was disposed
of, and the money carried to his account.

The country, all the way from Vellore to the Ghauts, is
both verdant and beautiful, being exceedingly well watered,
and the road as far as Laulpett, has an avenue of banian
and other trees, to shelter travellers. The road from Laul-
pett to the Ghaut had been lately repaired, but it passes
through a good deal of uneven ground, with a river
and nullahs, which constantly injure it for wheel carriages.
The foot of the pass is about four miles from Laulpett, and
as very considerable pains had been taken to make it per-
fectly practicable, I now found the Peddanaig Doorgum
Pass, in a very improved state from what I had experienced
in the time of Lord Cornwallis. * It is four miles and a
half in length, and said to be nearly a mile in perpendicular
height, above the Carnatic. The prospect from the road,
about half way up, is grand and picturesque beyond
description, with the beautiful valley which you have just
quitted in the fore-ground, and a succession of hills and
mountains towering to the skies, in the centre. The
Sautghur Hills in particular, stand prominent in majestic
beauty, to which the ruins of their former fortifications,
peeping here and there through the deep green foliage,
add considerable interest. This Pass was formerly for-

* Doorgum, or Droog, meaning a lull-fort, in Telinga, Tamul, and
Canarese.

142 MILITARY [A.D.

tified, and had it been defended by Tippoo, when we first
ascended it, must have cost us very dear. At the summit,
and only about a mile from the road, stands the hill- fort,
from whence it takes its name, breached and dilapidated,
but still frowning on the plain below. A miserable bun-
galow, erected for the discomfort of travellers, is to be
found about a mile further on, with a small village and a
very fine tank, which gives it's name to the spot ; Naiken
Yaree, meaning Pedda Naig's Tank. Here, travellers,
whose cattle and attendants are pretty well fatigued by the
steep ascent, generally put up, and if they unfortunately
move light, that is, without tents, they will all agree with
me, in the appellation I have bestowed on a building, which
I have known up to 1821, for twenty years. It was always
leaky, with broken doors and windows, on a spot where
the extreme cold of at least thirty degrees, is experienced
in the temperature of the night, and little less by day ; and
what makes this remark the more poignant is, that for the
last twenty-five years, every other stage on the road from
Madras to Seringapatam, has afforded ample shelter and
accommodation for travellers, who would therefore require
tents at this one inhospitable place only, in a road of three
hundred miles. From Naiken Yaree to Bangalore, a dis-
tance of eighty-two miles, the road was capital, with
excellent bungalows, erected at all the intervening stages,
by the Mysore government. In this route is Colaar, the
birth-place, as well as the burial-place of the famous Hyder
Ally Cawn, about half-way between the Pass and Banga-
lore ; it is a compact and picturesque fortress, with the
most intricate gateway imaginable, and is situated on the

1803.] REMINISCENCES. 143

northern bank of a very fine tank, a short distance from
the town, which is large and respectable. The family
burial-ground of the man whose courage and abilities
raised him from a very inferior station to the throne, with
a beautiful garden in it's vicinity, is at the western extre-
mity, where a rugged mountain, at a short distance, frowns
over the whole. The tradition of the place is, that this
mountain was formerly the abode of some giant tribe,
whose habitations are still to be traced in monstrous frag-
ments on the summit ; and though the original possessors
are all extinct, no inferior mortal of the present day has
ever dared to venture up, to ascertain the fact. I have
on more than one occasion, by holding out considerable
pecuniary temptations, endeavoured to induce some of the
natives to accompany me up, but failed, from their super-
stitious credulity ; and it was far too rugged and inacces-
sible, to be attempted by any one who did not know the
way. I suspect the truth is, that it was once the secure
retreat of banditti ; for it is notorious that travellers, both
Europeans and natives, were not only robbed, but occa-
sionally murdered in this neighbourhood. Indeed, at the
very time when I visited it. Colonel Davis of the 25th dra-
goons, who was travelling the same road, only two stages
a head of us, awoke in the night, when a gang of robbers
was just making oflf with his writing box. Unarmed as he
was, he rushed out of his tent, and was instantly assailed
by six armed men. A Portuguese servant following him,
threw himself between his master and the first ruffian, and
was killed. The Colonel, however, being a powerful man,
and a good swords-man, snatching a sabre from one of the

144 MILITARY [A.D.

assailants, and cutting away to the right and left, was
soon master of the field, with one of the enemy dead
at his feet, and two more desperately wounded, whom his
servants secured ; the rest unfortunately escaped. It is
said, though Hyder Naig, afterwards Hyder Ally Cawn,
was originally buried at Colaar ; yet that his son, Tippoo
Sultaun, had the body removed to the magnificent Mauso-
leum in the Lall Baugh, at Seringapatam.

Colaar is also so famous for a breed of vicious horses,
that, all over the Peninsula, whenever a horse turns out ill,
he is called Colarie. The country from thence to Banga-
lore is both fertile and beautiful ; several fine flourishing
towns being on the high road, with bungalows at each, for
travellers.

BANGALORE.

The fort of Bangalore, originally shaped much like an
egg, with a high stone rampart and deep ditch, was
breached by us in 1791, but when again dehvered over to
Tippoo, he dismantled it. Poorniah, the new Rajah's
minister, had, however, now completely rebuilt it, on the
former foundation, and it had an English garrison, under
Major Andrew M'Cally. The pettah is a very large and
wealthy place, with a strong-bound hedge ; at the storm of
which. Colonel Moorhouse and several officers lost their
lives. I did not perceive any alteration in it since that
time, though the present cantonment was not then in
existence.

From Bangalore to Seringapatam, a distance of seventy-
eight miles, there is a capital road, through a very fine

M««i«'asii''''

1803.] RKiMINlSCliNCiiS. 147

and flourishing country. Our 'camp was pitched about
four miles to the northward of the fort ; and I joined my
corps on the 22nd of January, 1803. The Honourable
Major-general Arthur Wellesley, who then commanded
Seringapatam, as well as our force, lived in the Dowlut
Baugh, on the island ; and in the short interval before our
march, he manoeuvred his future army, and taught us that
uniformity of movement, which was afterwards to enable
him to conquer foes twenty times as numerous, and to
acquire for himself a name, which can never perish in the
East. In the pursuit and annihilation of Dhoondia, the.
Sepoy General had already laid the foundation of his
future fame ; but little did any mortal at this time foresee
the resources of that master-mind, which the approaching
campaign was destined to develop.

SERINGAPATAM,
Is formed upon the angle of an island, between the Cauvery
and Coleroon rivers, where it's fort rises to astonish the
beholders, by a display of labour and art, without mucli
science; the works on the land side being enormous and
commanding, while those towards the river are all ill chosen
and deficient ; knowing that river to be, as at certain sea-
sons it turned out, perfectly fordable. The fort is of great
extent, encompassed by two entire walls, and two deep and
formidable ditches ; with many good bastions and several
commanding cavaliers, of which the natives of India are
exceedingly fond, and the gates, as usual, in the East,
covered by numerous extra works. The principal fault
appeared to us, to be it's approaching too near to the bank

VOL. 1. L 2

148 AIILITARY [A.D.

of the river, from whence alone there was a chance of
breaching ; and from the extent of the interior, and nature
of the ground, it was at one time proposed to our govern-
ment by Colonel Caldwell, an able engineer, to cut off the
part so exposed, and erect'new works, half a mile in it's
rear, at an expense of several lacs of pagodas. This alter-
ation, ably executed, would, in our hands, render it im-
pregnable ; but in the present state of affairs in the East,
no works are necessary to insure the English dominion.
A mild and just exercise of authority is the foundation, the
affection and fidelity of a numerous and well-disciplined
army, the ramparts, and their bayonets, the parapets,
through which, while they continue unimpaired, no enemy
has power to penetrate. Tippoo had a beautiful Palace in-
side, and there was a Mosque of uncommon elegance, with
high minarets, near the Bangalore gate, from whence the
whole surrounding country could be distinctly seen.

On the same island, three miles to the eastward, was the
Laul Baugh, a lovely garden, containing a splendid Palace
in the eastern style, and the celebrated Mosque and tomb
of black granite, in which are deposited the remains of
Hyder Ally, the Bahauder, and his son Tippoo, the Sultaun
of Mysore, very richly decorated with satin and kinkaubs,
from the Prophet's tomb at Mecca, and flowers daily
strewed all over the floor. Several Moorish Priests and
devotees reside near it, paid by our government. Over the
outer door of the sepulchre are certain Persian distiches,
embossed in granite, with a verse by Tippoo himself over
the interior. English guards were placed at the entrances,
to protect the tombs from pollution, and the attendants

1803.] RRMINISCENCKS. 149

from insult; in short, every thing in this solemn spot,
bearing a semblance of respect for a departed friend, must
tend to raise the English Government in the estimation of
every native of any sense or discrimination in the country.

The Shahrganjam Pett, on the other side of the island,
is a very large and respectable town, containing a rich
and numerous population; but from the lovvness of it's situ-
ation, and the proximity to the river, it is extremely un-
healthy. The Dovvlut Baugh, in another direction, about
a mile from the fort, is a very neat and well cultivated
garden, with a Palace of uncommon lightness and beauty,
close to the river, and in which the Great Captain of the
age then resided. One of the halls was adorned with
native representations of Baillie's defeat, with every exag-
geration to the prejudice of the Europeans; which paint-
ings, being somewhat impaired, the General, it was said,
paid a large sum for their renovation : at all events, when
I saw them, they were entire and perfect. Before I take
leave of Seringapatam, I must mention that it is a most
unhealthy spot, and since it came into our possession, has
been the grave of thousands, Tippoo was, indeed, so well
convinced of this, that, until driven to seek shelter under
it's walls, the troops composing it's garrison were always
quartered at some distance outside, and only the men
sufficient for it's protection, kept at a time on the island.

On the 8th of February, the army destined for the
Malirattah country, made it's first movement ; and was com-
posed of the following corps : —

The Staff consisted of Captain R. Barclay, Deputy
Adjutant-general ; Captain Cunningham, Deputy

150 MILITARY [A.D.

Quarter-master-general, and Captains West and

Bellingham, Aids-de-camp,
His Majesty's 33rd regiment, under the command of

Lieutenant-colonel Elliot.
2nd regiment of Native cavalry, — Major Burrows.
Park and artillery, — Captain Steel.
1st battalion of the 2nd regiment of Native infantry, —

Lieutenant-colonel Griffin,
1st battalion of the 3rd regiment of Native infantry, —

Captain Vesey.
2nd battalion of the 3rd regiment of Native infantry, —

Major Kennett.
1st battalion of the 8th regiment of Native infantry, —

Lieutenant-colonel Orrock,
2nd battalion of the 12th regiment of Native infantry, —

Lieutenant-colonel M'Leod.
2nd battalion of the 18th regiment of Native infantry, —

Captain Boardman.
With two thousand of Poorniah's horse, and five thousand

of his infantry.
I now pass over a very hot and uninteresting march, and
at once bring our camp close to the grand army under
General Stewart, and the centre array under General
Campbell, on the plains near Hurryhur, on the 8th of
March, after having come a distance of two hundred miles ;
when we ascertained that the three senior Generals,
Stewart, Campbell, and Baird, were to remain with an
army of reserve, and we were to push on, under our own
General, formed and brigaded as follows : —

The cavalry brigade, under the command of Colonel

1803.] RRMINISCKNCKS. 151

Thomas Dallas ; and Captain A. Grant, of the

Native infantry, Brigade-major.
His Majesty's 19th light dragoons, — Lieutenant-colonel

Maxwell.
4th Native cavalry, — Major A. Floyer.
5tli Native cavalry, — Major Leonard.
7th Native cavalry, — Major Huddlestone.
The 1st infantry brigade, under the command of Colonel

Harness ; with Captain Tolfrey, Brigade-major ;

and Lieutenant Monin, Quarter-master.
Scotch brigade, — Major Ferrier.

His Majesty's 1st battalion of the 2nd regiment, — Lieu-
tenant-colonel Griffin.
2nd battalion of the 3rd regiment, — Major Kennet.
2nd battalion of the 12th regiment, — Lieutenant-colonel

M'Leod.
The 2nd infantry brigade under Colonel Wallace ; with

Captain Agnew, Brigade-major, and Captain Camp-
bell, Quarter-master.
His Majesty's 74th regiment, — Major Swinton.
1st battalion of the 3rd regiment of Native infantry, —

Captain Vesey.
1st battalion of the 8th regiment of Native infantry, —

Lieutenunt-colonel Orrock.
2nd battalion of the 18th regiment of Native infantry, —

Lieutenant-colonel Chalmers.
The park of artillery was under Captain Beauman j and

the Pioneers were commanded by Captain Heitland.

From Hurryhur to Poonah, a march of three hundred

and fifty miles, was accomplished by the General and

152 MILITARY [A.D.

cavalry on the 20th of April, and by the rest of the army
on the 22nd ; the General having made a forced march of
forty-two miles, during the night of the 19th, to save the
town from being plundered and destroyed by Amrut Row,
and a large body of his followers, left there by Holkar.

POONAH,
Washed on the north by the Mootah river, is about three
miles in length, and two in breadth, and was said to con-
tain one hundred and forty thousand houses, which, by a
moderate calculation, would give six hundred thousand
inhabitants ; but this seemed an exaggeration. It was,
however, extremely crowded with both habitations and
people, of all descriptions ; and the apparent confidence
with which articles of merchandize were every where ex-
posed, even on our arrival, seemed to give a flat contradic-
tion to the reports, which had induced the General to make
a forced march : since Amrut Row not only left the place,
without doing any mischief, but had treated the Peishwa's
family, left in his custody by Holkar, with great kind-
ness and delicacy, and placed them all safely in Parbutty,
a celebrated Pagoda on a hill in the town. The streets,
as in most native towns, are extremely narrow, and full of
bazars, which contain an innumerable quantity of articles
of merchandize, the produce not only of India, but of
China and Europe ; of which the Parsees have the most
extensive and richest assortments, and the Borahs next.
The houses are some three and four stories high, but built
without much regard to taste or symmetry ; though, being
diversified in size, shape, and colour, they have a pretty

^ 1

3«:

1803.] RRMINISCENCKS. 155

appearance from a distance. The view from the opposite
side of the river is the most imposing ; as that part of
the town which is washed by the stream, being faced with
stone, descending, in many parts, by regular steps to the
water's edge, and having trees intermingled with the
houses, presents an appearance very far from despicable ;
though a stranger, set down at once in any of the streets,
could hardly credit the assertion. The fruit bazars are
well supplied with musk, and water melons, plantains,
figs, dates, raisins, mangos, pomegranates, wood-apples,
almonds, and a great variety of country vegetables ; in
short, it appeared to us a place of great wealth, and to
concentrate all the trade of the empire.

In this neighbourhood we remained encamped and in-
active for six weeks ; the army not moving ground till the
4th of June. In the interim, however, the Peishwa came
back to his capital, with a strong escort under Colonel
Murray ; and we exchanged the 2nd battalion of the 3rd
for His Majesty's 78th regiment ; the Scotch brigade hav-
ing already been sent to join Colonel Stevenson's force, at
some distance from us.

AIIMEDNUGGER.
Very much in the dark with regard to Indian politics,
we had naturally concluded, that as we came to succour
the Peishwa, his friends would be our friends, and his
foes our likeliest opponents ; but here we reckoned with-
out our host, for the man we were now to attack was not
Holkar who had deposed him, but Scindiah, who had up-
held him, and actually suffered a defeat, near Poonah, in

156 MILITARY [A.D.

his cause ! Having never troubled my head with the
intricacy of state aflPairs, I have, therefore, never learned
the real cause of this war ; but as an idle life in camp is
always most irksome to a soldier, we hailed with delight
the order for advancing, not much caring who the enemy
might be, or what was the bone of contention. We com-
menced our march, as I have mentioned, on the King's
birth-day, and suffered much from heavy rains, till the 8th
of August; when the weather clearing up, we advanced
with extra precautions and extra ammunition, to the vici-
nity of Ahmednugger, the Pettah of which it was re-
solved should be immediately stormed ; for which purpose
the General selected Colonels Harness and Wallace, and
Captain Vesey, to lead. The Pettah of Ahmednugger is a
very large and regular native town, surrounded by a wall of
stone and mud, about eighteen feet high, and very neatly
built, with small bastions at every hundred yards, but no
rampart to the curtains ; the wall being rounded off at the
top, and scarcely broad enough for a man to stand upon.
It has several gateways, and many high buildings in the
interior, with narrow streets, and mud walls of different
compounds, all contributing to aid a powerful defence ;
but, alas ! for it's security, the determined spirit was
wanting.

We had not hitherto seen the face of an enemy, and
now for the first time perceived the walls of both the
Pettah and fort lined with men, whose arms glittered
in the sun, whilst another body of troops was encamped
outside, between them. As we stood with the General,
reconnoitring from a small elevated spot, within long gun-

1803] REMINISCENCKS. 167

shot of both places, he directed the leaders where they
were to fix their ladders : but unaware that there was no
rampart, we were ordered to escalade the curtains, without
breachino;. The fort lay on our right hand, and the pettah
in front, within gun-shot of each other ; when the first co-
lumn was ordered to attempt a long curtain to the extreme
left, having a high building immediately in it's rear. The
ladders were speedily planted, and the assault made ; but
each man as he ascended, fell, hurled from the top of the
wall. This unequal struggle lasted about ten minutes,
when they desisted, with the loss of about fifteen killed,
and fifty wounded ; amongst whom were Captains Duncan
Grant, Mackenzie, and Humberstone, and Lieutenant An-
derson, killed ; and Lieutenant Larkins mortally wounded.
The third party to the right, advanced nearly at the same
moment, but a gun-elephant taking fright at the firing from
the fort, ran down the centre of our column, which occa-
sioned no little confusion, and some delay, giving the
enemy more time and means to oppose the first attack.
Being furnished with two scaling-ladders only, we reached
the curtain and planted them at the very re-entering angle,
formed by a small bastion, the enemy playing some heavy
guns on us, from the fort. Such a rush was made at first,
that one ladder broke down, with our gallant leader and
several men, and we were forced to work hard with the
other. Captain Vesey was then a very stout heavy man ;
but what impediment, short of death, can arrest a soldier
at such a crisis ? He was soon on the bastion, surrounded
by men, determined to carry every thing before them.
Our two European companies had all scrambled up, and

158 MILITARY [A.D.

about one hundred and fifty, or two hundred of the 3rd,
when a cannon-shot smashed our last ladder, and broke
the thigh of my Subadar. We were now a party of three
hundred men, left solely to our own resources, and dashing
down we scoured all the streets near the wall, the enemy
only once making a stand, and suffering accordingly. At
length, arriving near a gate, marked out for the centre
attack, and a loud peal of cannon and musquetry from
without, announcing the second party, under Colonel Wal-
lace, we drove all the defenders before us, and some of our
men opened the gate whilst they were battering at it from
the outside, by which one of our party was killed. Our
loss was eleven killed, and twenty-two wounded ; including
Lieutenant Plenderleath killed, and Lieutenant Nielson
wounded. Our two parties now uniting under Colonel
Wallace, soon succeeded in clearing the place of our op-
ponents ; whom we afterwards learned were one thousand
five hundred Arabs, and about three thousand Mahrattahs,
few, if any of whom reached the fort, but were forced to
fly in the other direction. The second column had but
few casualties ; and thus we had the quiet possession of a
very fine and rich town, with a few prisoners, by three
o'clock. Our total loss in killed and wounded being one
hundred and sixty men.

Captain Duncan Grant, the first man killed in our army,
was a young officer of great promise ; with an uncommonly
fine form, and great personal strength, he possessed a
kind and affectionate disposition, a liberality of soul, and
a flow of spirit, which endeared him to every one who
had the happiness of knowing him. In the same corps,

1803.] REMINISCENCES. 159

Ilis Majesty's 78th Highland regiment, there was an old
and most respectable officer, Captain Browne, who com-
manded the grenadiers, and had the Piper attached to his
company. This gentleman was, by many years, older than
any other in the regiment, and having been unfortunate in
promotion, being a former brother subaltern with our
General, and an Englishman, did not mix much with his
new comrades. One evening, about the beginning of
August, Grant had given a party to a number of young
men, at his own tent in the lines, and sending for the
Piper, they amused themselves by listening to his pibrochs,
and dancing to his reels. To such a party it would have
been an idle compliment to have invited Captain Browne,
but situated as their tents were, it was impossible for him
not to be aware of what appeared to him, the unlicensed
use made of his Piper ; and consequently, the next even-
ing, when the officers assembled in front of the parade, he
addressed himself to Captain Grant, and expressed his sur-
prise that he should have sent for the Piper, without a pre-
vious application to him : to which Grant replied, " That
he did not conceive such an application necessary, and that
he should send for the man again, whenever he pleased."
Captain Browne, [with great solemnity, exclaimed, " Sir,
you are a boy ; ^and nobody but a boy would tell me so."

The parade broke up, and Captain Grant requested a
Lieutenant to go to Captain Browne, and tell him, that he
could not rest satisfied, without some apology for the ex-
pressions he had made use of; at the same time declaring,
that he bore him no enmity, and would be satisfied with
the slightest concession.

160 MILITARY [A.D.

The man he had unfortunately chosen as a friend on this
occasion, proved unworthy of his confidence, and instead
of preventing a meeting between two most estimable men,
he was accused of fermenting both parties, until a fatal
challenge was given and received. They met and fired
together ; the ball from poor Grant's pistol, depriving his
brother officer of his life, and the service of a soldier of
acknowledged worth ; and that, only two or three days be-
fore they were likely to be called upon to risk their lives,
thus wantonly exposed, in the cause of their country. The
execrated mortal, who was suspected of foul play in this
affair, being two days afterwads engaged in a personal
quarrel with another brother officer, and displaying therein
a most brutal ferocity, was turned out of camp by General
Wellesley the night before we marched to Ahmednugger,
" that such a wretch might not have an opportunity of
sharing in the honours of an army, which he had thus dis-
graced." Poor Grant was placed in arrest, and seemed
deeply to lament the mischief he had done. When riding
by my side on the march, he suddenly seized ray hand with
energy, and pressed it, without uttering a word ; then rode
off, and unarmed as he was, rushed up the first to the top
of the ladder, from which he fell, a lifeless corpse ! It is
scarcely necessary to say, that being in arrest, he had no
business to be in the way of danger this day ; but his mind
was tortured by remorse, and his high spirit led him to the
very post he would have chosen, at the head of men by
whom he was greatly beloved.

Of the other officers who shared his victorious death,
in this assault, Captain Humberstone was also an excellent

1803.] REMINISCENCES. 161

soldier and an amiable young man. Lieutenant Larkins had,
I believe, only very recently joined the regiment, and I had
not the pleasure of his acquaintance, though I had known
the rest of the regiment a few months previously, when
quartered at Fort William, in Bengal. Lieutenant Plen-
derleath of the 3rd, was killed while walking singly on the
top of the wall, away from that portion of the regiment
which we had, nolens volens, left outside. How he climbed
up I know not, as both the ladders were then broken, but
he was supposed to have been trying to get to the gateway,
with the intention of letting his company in from the out-
side, when a musquet ball from a window pierced his heart,
through a silver breast-plate, and thick leather belt, and he
fell instantly and perfectly dead. Hoosein Cawn, the
Subadar of my company, a young man of a respectable
family at Madras, who was raised at once to the rank
he held, by bringing two hundred recruits for a new
regiment, had been but lately transferred to our corps,
and was therefore eyed with considerable jealousy by the
Native officers in general, as a young upstart, who had
seen no service. Fully aware of this feeling, he was the
more zealous in the performance of every duty, and fre-
quently entreated me to keep an eye upon him in action,
and report his conduct accordingly. I had previously been
detached with him for some months, and therefore became
completely acquainted with his character, which being
most exemplary, induced me to more friendly intercourse
than is generally usual between European and Native of-
ficers, and we had occasionally beguiled a wet and tedious
evening with a game of chess. This morning on the march,

VOL. I. M

162 MILITARY [A.D.

he had again reminded me of my promise ; but, being sud-
denly called to lead the corps, by my commanding officer
putting himself at the head of the Europeans, we were
separated to some distance. I had, however, scarcely
reached the top of the ladder when I heard a voice behind
me, calling out " Oh sir ! remember your promise ! " and
looking round, I perceived my little friend at my heels,
he having contrived to scramble through the crowd, in his
eagerness to perform some signal service. The words
were scarcely spoken, before a cannon shot from the fort
fractured his thigh, and broke the ladder. I got off, but
he fell, and was carried into the hospital, where he died a
few days afterwards.

The Fort of Ahmednugger, is one of the strongest I have
ever seen on a plain, in all India. It is built of solid stone
and chunam, and nearly circular, with a wide and deep
dry ditch all round it, and large roomy circular bastions at
short intervals, each containing three or four guns, pointed
through casemated embrasures, with a solid terrace
above, and loopholes for musquetry. These bastions were
from fifty to sixty feet high ; the curtains being both short
and low, having narrow ramparts with loopholes, cannon
proof, but no guns. It had at this time at least sixty
guns mounted on the bastions, from twelve to fifty-two
pounders ; but from the confined nature of the casemates,
many beautiful brass pieces of heavy metal, were rendered
useless during this short siege. The glacis was very high,
and covered about thirty feet of the walls ; but it had the
fault of all Indian glacis, that of being too abruptly sloped
outwards, so that the defences being once knocked off, an

1803.] RKMINISCF.NCES. 163

enemy might find good shelter, close to the place. On a
very large tower, or barbette, stood the Mahaletchmee, * a
brass gun about twenty-two feet in length, and carrying a
ball of seventeen pounds weight. This piece of ordnance
was actually pointed in the direction of our battery, but in
firing it, they carried away a piece of the parapet of the
bastion directly in it's front : indeed, while only one or two
guns on the works could send a ball near us, ours reached
eveiy part of the fort, and breached two contiguous bas-
tions, down as far as the glacis would admit. This, how-
ever, was still from twenty to thirty feet from the foot of
the wall, and even could we have got our scaling ladders
down into the ditch, they would have been much too short
to insure an assault. The enemy, thus attacked in an
unusual way, finding their walls crumbling over their
heads, and fearing a second Pettah exhibition, sued for a
capitulation, and on the morning of the r2th of August,
when our ammunition was running short, and the twelve
pound shot nearly all expended, the General granted them
terms, and our corps, then in the trenches, moved in and
took possession, with a company of the 78th. The garrison
marched out with the honours of war, and the Khelladar
was even assisted by us, to carry off treasure and effects,
which afterwards turned out to be drear, or public pro-
perty. About one thousand five hundred men, one third
of whom were x\rabs, quitted the fort with him, and be-
came afterwards a band of lawless plunderers.

It was, however, a matter of little wonder that they gave

* ^Mahaletchmee, the great goddess Latchmee.

164 MILITARY [A.D.

up the fort so early, when our ally, Gokliah, a Mahrattah
chief residing in our camp, with a body of horse, wrote
thus to his friends at Poonah :— " These English are a
strange people, and their General a wonderful man : they
came here in the morning, looked at the Pettah wall,
walked over it, killed all the garrison and returned to break-
fast! what can withstand them?" And when it is con-
sidered, that Holkar, even in the zenith of his power, once
got his army inside, and was driven out with great loss, we
need not be astonished at their surprise. Had we waited
an hour or two longer, and battered a curtain, our loss
would, in all human probability have been little or nothing,
but the apparent contempt of danger evinced in our mode
of procedure, while it astonished the defenders, struck a
terror into the garrison of the fort, and all the surrounding
country, which amply compensated for our loss and insured
a capture of the utmost consequence to our future success.
In the fort we found the Palace of Scindiah and several
old buildings, which must originally have been houses of
some consequence. In the former, which had a large
garden attached to it, was a profusion of valuable articles,
over which, as prize property, I had European sentries im-
mediately placed : but the spirit of plunder suddenly over-
came discipline ; for all hands, even the sentries not ex-
cepted, speedily turned to, and when the General ar-
rived, he found an indiscriminate crowd in the house, each
helping himself to what came first to hand : for which two
of our Native soldiers were instantly seized and hanged, in
the only gateway, in terrorem ; though the Europeans
escaped. It is difficult to describe the articles which

1<S03.] RKMINISCKNCKS. 165

were thus suddenly exposed to view. On entering with
the General, I observed, in two apartments only, several
dozens of large handsome pier glasses, two electrifying
machines, an organ, a piano-forte, lustres, chandeliers,
globes, and many other similar luxuries : in others, the
richest stuffs of India, gold and silver cloths, splendid
armour, silks, satins, velvets, furs, shawls, plate, cash, &c.
&c. ; all of which were undergoing the close examination
of our unfortunate looties, who, however, were generally
forced to relinquish their plunder before they quitted the
place. This may give the reader some idea of the riches
which the Khelladar carried off on one elephant, several
carts, many camels and horses, &.c. ; to the amount of
several lacs of rupees ; but for which we afterwards
brought him to a dear account.

This fort might be rendered twice as strong by cutting-
down the bastions to the lower tier, and turning the case-
mates into good embrasures, when all the defences would
be available ; in it's present state it resembled nothing so
much as an immense three decker aground, with a little
sloop of war taking it's station near her stern, and raking
her till she surrendered.

As it was necessary to settle the captured country, pre-
vious to our advancing,. Captain J. G. Graham, Pay-master
of the army, was appointed collector of the Ahmednugger
district. Major Kellet being lately dead. Captain Lucas
was left in command of the fort, with the 2nd battalion of
the 3rd regiment ; along with Captain Fisher of the Bom-
bay artillery, with some men training for that service ; and
Captain Carfrac, of the 3rd regiment, as Pay-master.

166 MILITARY [A.D.

CHAPTER VL

The first Muhrattah War — Awungahad — Dowlidubad — Victory of
Assaye, under General Wellesley — Battle of Kerjet Koriagaum —
Visit of Scindia's Vakeel — • Battle of Argaum — Elacheepoor and
Gawilghw Ai'rival of Amriit Mow, and Ceremonial of his Intro-
duction.

THE FIRST MAHRATTAII WAR.
A FEW days after this achievement, the army marched
onward, and reached Tokah, on the Godavery, on the 21st
of August ; from which time till the 28th was taken up in
crossing the river, which was both deep and rapid. Tokah,
formed at the junction of two branches of the river, is
about fifty miles from Ahmednugger, and is a very pretty
looking object from either side. We crossed below it,
losing a few men, horses, and bullocks in the passage ;
our corps and the cavalry having preceded the army, to
collect boats, and prepare ground on the opposite bank.

On the 26th, the 1st battalion of the 10th regiment,
under Major Dallas, joined the army from Bellary, with
three lacs of pagodas, and two thousand bullock-loads of
supphes, having marched for nineteen days, without a
halt ; and on the 29th we arrived at Aurungabad, distant
twenty-six miles.

1803.] REMINISCENCES. 167

Few places in India have been more magnificent, or
more celebrated in former days, than Aurungabad ; and
few have suffered more, in every sense of the word, from
the hand of time, the changes of fortune, and revolution
of empires. It is now but a heap of splendid ruins, the
mere shadow of it's former self; but that shadow still de-
notes what it must have been in it's glory. It is amazingly
extensive, being said by the natives to be fifteen coss in
circumference ; and I think it may be as many miles. It
has several walls, now of little strength, but on which
much labour and expense must have been bestowed ; and
there are still a few entire Palaces and houses in the midst
of it's devastation. The greatest curiosities are a large
Mosque and mausoleum, erected by Aurungzebe, or Allum
Geer, to the memory of the Princess Rabeah Dowranee ;
a daughter of Shah Mahmood Ghaznowee, and his fa-
vourite wife. It is built principally of white marble, and
is the most elegant and chaste building I have ever seen in
India : the minarets being about one hundred feet high,
and beautifully finished. There was also an immense
fountain, full of large carp, so tame as to come regularly to
be fed on the top of the water ; and a small mill at one end
of it for grinding corn. Altliough this miniature machine
was by no means a perfect model, yet so entirely novel
was it to our Native soldiers, that it was not only viewed
by all who could find time to go there, but also became a
theme of conversation for a considerable time afterwards.
Their surprise was indeed fully equal to that of the Benga-
lee, who, upon being questioned respecting an English
gentleman, who had recently erected a wind-mill, ex-

168 MILITARY [A.D

claimed " What kind of man, this Englishman ? Catch
horse, and make work ! catch bullock, and make work !
and catch wind, and make work !" Nearly as much asto-
nished were our Sepoys at this rude and imperfect water-
mill, erected by some scientific Mollah, in a place, once the
seat of Mussulman empire, and, of course, of all the science
of that age. There are also many delightful gardens in
and round the town ; but it is now famous only for the
great variety of superior fruit it produces, which is sent
to all parts of the Peninsula. The Mussulmans being un-
doubtedly the best gardeners in the East, and the climate
and soil of this place peculiarly favourable.

DOWLUTABAD.
About five miles to the north-eastward is the famous
fortress of Dowlutabad, said to contain immense wealth,
lodged there by the Nizam in his days of instability. It is
a small conical hill, completely fortified, and considered by
the natives to be impregnable. I have more than once,
when in it's neighbourhood, attempted to get near and
take a sketch of it from different directions, but was in-
variably foiled, by the extreme jealousy of the garrison,
who positively prohibited my approach, and shewed ample
and ready means to enforce that prohibition ; though I
believe, that since that time others have been permitted
both to draw and to describe it very fully. Colonel Col-
lins, the resident at Scindiah's court, having formally
quitted that chief's camp, the day previous to our attack
on Ahmednugger, was residing at Aurungabad, with an
ciicort of troops, when wc arrived near that city. On the

1803.] REMINISCENCES. 169

30th of August the army marched to the vicinity of Baul-
gaura, eleven miles; passing through a wide defile, formed
by two ranges of hills, about six miles asunder ; where we
saw a party of Scindiah's horse, most likely watching for
an opportunity to plunder, but, keeping at a respectable
distance, they were not molested by us.

On the 31st, we marched to the foot of the range of
hills to our right, and encamped near the fortified village
of Bauningaum, the distance being about twelve miles.
Halting the next day, to enable the Pioneers to construct
some field-works near the village, in which to leave the
18th Native infantry, with the heavy guns, &c. ; and sixty
rounds of ammunition being issued to each man, our
hearts beat high with expectation. We were to march at
four o'clock in the morning, but some after-intelligence,
made the General countermand the whole ; and, leaving the
Pioneers, with two companies, under my command, to de-
destroy the new work, the army marched at six, A.M. on
tlie 2nd of September, to the north bank of the Godavery, a
distance of twenty-two miles and a half; at which they
arrived opposite Raukusbhone, or Gaum, for it is called
both, about two in the afternoon. This was not only a
long, but a very hot march, and many men dropping down
witli fatigue, were left on the road, but arrived safely in
the evening. Our party, after performing the work of de-
struction, followed the rear-guard, and heard some heavy
firing to our left, which proved to be Colonel Stevenson's
force, taking Jaulnah. Reaching our camp at four o'clock
P.M., 1 enjoyed a swim across the river, to the town of

170 MILITARY [A.D.

Raakusgaum, which, Uke Poonah, has stone steps to the
water's edge. I mention this bathe, of all the luxuries of
the East, the most refreshing, after a day's sunning, be-
cause an European soldier, among others, making the same
attempt, was unfortunately drowned.

Here the Maharajah, Dowlut Row Scindiah, gave us
the slip, as he had done to Colonel Stevenson, by retreating
in another direction ; and thus our long march was made
for nothing;. We had now a lar^e Mahrattah force, of
nearly ten thousand men with us, under Gokliah, Appa
Sahib, or Appa Desai, Chief of Nepaunee, &c. ,• but the
most useful of all were the two thousand Mysore cavalry,
under Vishnapapundit or Vishnow Punt, as he was gene-
rally called. This fine old soldier always accompanied the
rear-guard, and flanked the baggage on the march, as well
as collected forage when we halted ; thus saving our
cavalry in particular, from the most fatiguing and harassing
of it's duties.

On the 11th of September we arrived at Hudgaum, on
the same bank of the Godavery ; and here Major Hill
joined us with supplies from the grand army. Captain
Vesey, having displeased the General by a sudden appli-
cation about shroffs, to our sorrow we were ordered to
accompany the 18th, under Major Griffin, this day lo
Ahmednugger, leaving the army on the very eve of battle.
We reached Ahmednugger, a distance of about one hun-
dred miles, on the 28th ; where we learned that a desperate
action had been fought between our array and Scindiah's,
which ended in a most signal victory.

1803.] REMINISCKNCES. 171

BATTLE or ASSAVE.
On the 21st of September, General Wellesley and Co-
lonel Stevenson met, and concerted a plan of combined
movement, by which they expected to attack Scindiah's
army simultaneonsly from opposite quarters, on the 24th.
The two armies were at first not very far distant ; but it
was suspected that Colonel Stevenson's guides misled him,
be that as it may, after a march of twenty-one miles, on
the 23rd the General suddenly found himself in the vicinity
of Scindiah's army, lately reinforced, it was said, to one
hundred thousand men. When our troops had arrived at
their ground, two horsemen were taken, who informed us,
that the combined armies of Scindiah and the Berar Rajah,
were encamped about five miles off, instead of twelve, as
was supposed ; and that the cavalry were actually prepar-
ing to move. Almost any other man would have hesitated
to give battle to so very overwhelming a force, at the
head of only four thousand five hundred men ; but that
decision of character Avhich, by a series of immortal
and increasing triumphs, has so pre-eminently marked
his after-career in Europe, was here displayed, to the ex-
treme dismay of the enemy, and the utter astonishment of
all India. General Wellesley immediately ordered the
rear-guard, strengthened by the 1st battalion of the 2nd
regiment, under Lieutenant Colonel Chalmers, to halt,
and cover the whole of the baggage at the adjoinnig village ;
when moving on himself, with his staff, and Captain John-
son of the Bombay engineers, he ordered the picquets to
follow, and the line to come up, as soon as formed. After

172 MILITARY [A.D.

marching about three miles, he suddenly came up in sight
of the enemy's army, drawn up in order of battle, on a
small peninsula, formed by the rivers Kaitnah and Jooee ;
the cavalry being on their right, and the infantry and guns
on the left ; the river Kaitnah half a mile in their front,
and the Jooee, with very steep banks, about three quarters
of a mile in their rear. The General immediately deter-
mined to turn their left flank, a movement which would
necessarily reduce their operations within a narrow space,
and more effectually secure the flanks of his own little
force, during the action. Captain Johnson was ordered
to ride forward to examine the road, and then lead the
infantry on to the attack. With an appearance of science,
which I suspect they did not really possess, the enemy
perceiving his intention, made a correspondent movement
to meet it, by bringing their whole force to face the medi-
tated danger, forming across the ground in two lines, with
their right close to the Kaitnah, and their left appuyed on
the village of Assaye, and the Jooee river; during which
movement their guns were by no means idle, and being
worked by regularly trained artillery-men, they mowed
down our men at every discharge. Our army, however, very
soon crossed the river, and formed, the infantry in two lines,
opposite to them, when our guns opened on those of the
enemy, and our cavalry formed in a third line, in the rear of
the infantry : our allies, the Mysoreans and Mahrattahs^
being left on the other side of the river, to protect the rear,
and watch a large body of the enemy's cavalry, who had been
hovering on our flank from the last ground. The General
soon perceivino- that the British artillery were too few in

1803.] REMINISCENCES. 173

numbers and weight to cope with the overwhelming bat-
teries of" the enemy, ordered the firing to cease, and the
infantry to advance, which they did in the most gallant
manner, and were soon in possession of their front line of
guns ; when, forming afresh, they proceeded to attack a
second line, where the whole of the enemy's force of in-
fantry and cavalry, with half of their artillery, were posted,
and well drawn up, with the river Jooee in their front. At
this moment a body of the enemy's cavalry charged in
our rear, and with their own gunners, and other rallied
fugitives, took possession, not only of their own guns,
which we had captured, but also those of the British ; kil-
ling our artillery-men, and turning the guns on our line.
They were enabled thus to succeed at this moment, be-
cause our cavalry had just then charged a large body of
the enemy in front, who had, with the assistance of a
very heavy and destructive fire from their guns, not only
galled, but nearly annihilated the gallant 74th, and picquets
on our extreme right. This last line, although it stood
well, was at length broken, and the guns captured ; while
our cavalry, pursuing the fugitives, fell in with an im-
mense column, who, though retreating, opposed them, and
killed Colonel Maxwell, the Brigadier ; nor were they
completely routed, without a severe struggle, and heavy
loss on our side. The second line being put hors de combat,
the General, who was every where, placed himself at the
head of the 78th regiment, faced about, and charged the
enemy, who were in possession of the first line of guns,
and routed them with great slaughter. Here ended the
conflict ; those who had captured our guns making off as

174 MILITARY [A.D.

soon as they saw their danger : though about half past five a
body of ten thousand cavalry came in sight, and made some
demonstrations, but dared not charge ; and at eight o'clock
in the evening they entirely disappeared, leaving us in
quiet possession of the dear-bought tield, with one hundred
and three cannon, most of which were brass, and twelve
howitzers, all beautiful guns, an immense quantity of am-
munition, and one thousand two hundred dead bodies.

Amongst the spoils of this memorable day, were many
standards, and a number of orderly books, kept by European
officers ; by which it appeared, that they had ten thousand
eight hundred regular infantry, and thirty thousand ca-
valry in the action: whilst our small body consisted of
two European regiments, the 74th and 78th, nine hundred
men ; and four native battalions, the 1st of the 4th, 1st of
the 8th, 1st of the 10th, and 2nd of the 12th, amounting
to two thousand four hundred infantry ; the 19th dragoons,
three hundred, and the 4th, 5th, and 7th Native cavalry
three hundred each, making one thousand two hundred ;
being a total of four thousand five hundred.

Some of the prisoners said it was generally understood,
that when Colonel Stevenson's and our force had united,
we intended to offer them battle ; but when they first
discovered only one body advancing, they thought them
actually mad, as it was their own intention to have at-
tacked our little camp the same day. Here may be seen
the advantage of that prompt and energetic decision which
so early characterised the hero of Assaye, as the first Ge-
neral of the age. He not only gained a splendid and im-
portant victory, but by anticipating his enemy, cramped

1803.] REMINISCKNCFS. 175

and confined his enormous force within such narrow
bounds, that they could not form a larger front to oppose
his handful, nor turn his flanks in the action : whereas,
had they been permitted to assail his camp on the plain,
defendants being always somewhat dispirited, they could
liave entirely surrounded it, and employed every man in
the assault.

As soon as all the remains of our army were collected on
the ground, the cavalry were ordered back, to bring on the
camp equipage, baggage, &c. ; but did not return till the
next morning. The night after this victory, even to those
few who had escaped unhurt, cannot be supposed to have
passed very agreeably ; what then must it have been to
the numerous wounded, who lay on the cold ground with-
out shelter, and many even without any kind of succour?

The dawn of the 24th of September was hailed by the
victors with a mixed feeling of exultation and regret ; for
few, if any, of the survivors had not lost a friend, or had
one or more lingering on the bed of sickness, and pierced
with wounds.

Our loss, when fully ascertained, proved to be as follows : —
Killed, Europeans, one Lieutenant-colonel, nine
Captains, twelve Lieutenants
and one Volunteer - - 23

Soldiers of the three regiments.
Cavalry and infantry - - 198
Natives of the three regiments of cavalry,

and four battalions of infantry 428

Total Killed 649

176 MILITARY [A.D.

Wounded, Europeans, one Lieutenant-colonel, two
Majors, six Captains, eighteen

Lieutenants, and three Ensigns 30

Soldiers _ _ - - 442

Natives ------ 1,138

Total Wounded 1,610

Missing 18

Total killed, wounded, and missing 2,277

As the loss fell much more heavily on the infantry than

cavalry, it will appear that the English force, which kept

the field of battle, with the captured guns, &c., on the

night of the 23rd of September, could not have exceeded

one thousand four hundred men !
The names of officers killed were, —

His Majesty's 19th dragoons, — Lieutenant-colonel Max-
well, Brigadier, and Captain Boyle.

4th cavalry, — Captain Hugh Mackay , agent for pubhc cattle.

5th, — Lieutenant Bonomie.

7th, — Captain M'Gregor, mortally wounded; died in a
few days.

Artillery, — Captains Fowler and Steel, and Lieutenant
Griffiths.

His Majesty's 74th regiment, — Captains Aytone, M'Leod,
Dyce, and Maxwell ; Lieutenants, J. Campbell,
M. Campbell, and Lorn Campbell ; R. Neilson,
James Grant, Morrison, Kernan, and M'Murdo.
Volunteer Moore.

1803.] REMINISCENCES. 177

His Majesty's 78th regiment, — Lieutenant Douglas.

1st battalion of the 2nd regiment of Native infantry, —
Lieutenant Brown, with the advanced picquet.
Wounded : —

His Majesty's 19th regiment, — Captains Cathcart and
G. Sale; Lieutenants N. Wilson and D. Young.

4th Cavalry, — Lieutenants Paling and Meredith.

5th, — Captain Colebrooke ; Lieutenants Darke and
M'Leod.

7th,— Captain M'Leod, badly.

Artillery, — Lieutenant Lindsay.

His Majesty's 74th regiment, — Major Swinton command-
ing ; Captain Moore, badly ; Lieutenants Lang-
lands, Shaw, and Mien.

His Majesty's 78th regiment, — Captain Mackenzie;
Lieutenants Larkins and Bethune.

1st battalion of the 4th regiment, — Lieutenant Mavor.

1st battalion of the 8th regiment, — Lieutenants Davie,
Fair, Hunter, De Graves, and Walker.

1st battalion of the 10th regiment, — Lieutenant Parrie.

2nd battalion of the 12th regiment, — Lieutenant-colonel
M'Leod, commanding, shot through the body ; Ma-
jor Mac Cally, badly in the head ; Lieutenants,
Harvey, Snow, Bowdler, Degrey, and Smith.
The General had two horses killed under him, and his

staff four more. Of one thousand two hundred horses,

which the cavalry carried into action, one hundred and

thirteen were killed, and three hundred and twenty-five

wounded ; leaving only eight hundred and sixty-two

mounted in the whole brigade, at the end of the day.

VOL. I. N

178 MILITARY [A.D.

Where all behaved so nobly, it may appear invidious to
mention the conduct of individuals ; still, under the pecu-
liar circumstances, I trust I may be excused in the in-
dulgence of that feeling, which urges the recital.

In the enumeration of our force, I have already men-
tioned the name of Captain A. Grant, an infantry officer,
as Major of brigade to the cavalry. In the heat of the
action, when our line was at a stand, and the 74th regi-
ment nearly annihilated, this officer rode up to his Brigadier,
Colonel Maxwell, who, with the cavalry, was following in
the rear of the infantry ; and pointing to the remains of
this noble regiment, called out " Now's your time. Sir, to
save the 74th regiment; do, pray order us to charge!"
The Colonel assented, and " forward and charge !" was
shouted and taken up in an instant. When they reached the
enemy's guns, a heavy fire of grape-shot was poured in upon
them, and many fell, but the survivors took ample venge-
ance on the gunners, and all who stood to support them ;
during which time Captain Grant was seen riding about
the field, and overthrowing every opponent. But he still
lives; and I shall, therefore, not say any thing further.
Captain A. B. Campbell, of the 74th regiment, who lost
his arm in the Sherewele Jungle, and who had since
broken his remaining arm at the wrist, by a fall in hunt-
ing, was in the thickest of the action, with his bridle in
his teeth, and a sword in his mutilated hand, dealing
destruction around him. He was now a staff officer, and
came off unhurt, though one of the enemy very nearly
transfixed him with a bayonet, which actually pierced his
saddle in the charge. He lived to be Post-master of the

1803.] RKMINISCENOR.S. 179

subsidiary force, and to distinguish himself still further in
the second campaign, but lost his life afterwards on the
passage to England.

Captain Hugh Mackay, being a public staff' officer, was
not permitted to do regimental duty. He was one of the
finest fellows I ever knew. Brave to a fault ; yet modest,
unassuming, humane, and generous. He was adored by
the 4th regiment, to whom, though never their com-
mander, he was a common father. This man was the
most intimate friend I had in the army ; but, unfortu-
nately, the General and he did not agree well together,
for each was ignorant of the other's worth ; and Mackay,
mild and conciliatory as he ever was with his equals or
inferiors, was proud and unbending to him.

On the eve of the battle Mackay wrote to Captain Bar-
clay, the Adjutant-general, requesting the General's per-
mission to join his corps, on the march and in action- to
which he got a positive refusal, and was told he could not
be spared from his own department, the public cattle of
the army. He offered to resign ; was told he could not
be spared at that moment. On which he wrote, that
" Whenever he should see his corps going into action, he
would, at all hazards, join it; that he knew he should
thereby forfeit his commission, but he trusted, if he did lose
it, it would be with honour." On the receipt of this hasty
and ill-advised letter, the General is said to have exclaimed,
" What can we do with such a fellow, Barclay ? I believe
we must e'en let him go ;" and go he certainly did, head-
ing the charge of his own regiment, and in a line with the
leading squadron of the noble veteran lOtli dragoons, he
N 2

180 MILITARY [A.D.

fell, man and horse, close to one of the enemy's guns,
pierced through by several grape shot. When in the very
heat of the action, news was brought to the General that
Captain Mackay was killed, his countenance changed,
and the tear which fell upon his cheek was nature's in-
voluntary homage to the memory of a kindred spirit.

On the 24th of September Colonel Stevenson's force
arrived at Assaye, and immediately went in pursuit of the
beaten enemy, whom he followed for some time ; and I now
return to Ahmednugger, where our corps was in charge of
a large supply for the army, and from whence we were
recalled by a kind letter from the General : but Captain
Lucas having been detached to a distance, to save a small
party assailed by a large body of the enemy, here we were
forced to remain till his return, which took place on the
night of the 2nd of October, when we learned the fol-
lowing particulars.

KURJET KORIAGAUM.

A company of the 12th regiment of Native infantry,
under Lieutenant Moi'gan, having been detached from
camp, to proceed to the Carnatic, in charge of various
drafts from Native corps in our army, for new corps raising
at Madras ; along with this party, and taking advantage
of their escort, were Captain O'Donnell and Lieutenant
Bryant of the 2nd Native cavalry, proceeding to join their
corps with the force under General Campbell. They had
reached the vicinity of a village called Kurjet Koriagaum,
about seventy miles from Ahmednugger, when they were
suddenly attacked by a body of about one thousand five

1803.] RKiMINlSCKNCKS. 181

hundred men, the former garrison of Ahmednuggcr, of
whom at least one third were Arabs. Captain O'Donnell,
who, though small, was a truly gallant fellow, immediately
assumed the command, and led on his motley band,
amounting, in the whole, to not more than one hundred
men, to the charge. Lieutenant Bryant, a very powerful
man, first saved the life of O'Donnell, who had snapped
his pistol at the leader of the Arabs, and was about to be
cut down by him, when Bryant put him to death ; and
then attacking their colour-bearer, cut him down also, and
seized their standard. At this moment the enemy's cavalry
appeared, and Captain O'Donnell drew off his little party
into the village ; but so closely were they pursued, that
they were forced to take post in a large choultry, from
whence the enemy could not dislodge them. Here the
extraordinary courage and strength of Bryant, if it did not
entirely save their lives, at least conduced to their pre-
servation from famine. He harangued the Sepoys in
broken English, not knowing a word of any native
language, and continually sallied out with a few volun-
teers, in search of food, and as regularly killed some of
their opponents. Amongst other feats, having broken his
sword on some Arab's scull, the first day, he seized a
musquet and bayonet, which he always used afterwards ;
and so dexterous was he with this new weapon, that he
frequently put the bayonet through one man, and knocked
a second down with the but end. One day, seeing a
leader mounted on a beautiful mare, he immediately
singled him out for his prey ; and running him through the
body, seized the marc by the bridle, and bore her off in

182 MILITARY [A.D.

triumph. On this mare he afterwards rode all the time he
remained in the Mahrattah country. Such a man, at such
a season, if he was mad, as some asserted, was worth
a dozen of sober, plodding fellows, who, calculating diffi-
culties, would have sat despairing at home, rather than
run such imminent risks on every occasion. Of the hundred
men collected and blockaded in this spot, all the native
officers behaved ill, and would have persuaded the men to
capitulate, had not many of them taken courage by the
behaviour of Lieutenant Bryant, to them a perfect stranger,
and by the conduct of the other two European officers ;
who, though neither possessing sufficient bodily strength
to cope, single-handed, with the Arabs, always shewed a
proper spirit when their exertions were necessary. Mat-
ters were in this state, when Captain Lucas, with four
companies and two guns, made his appearance and relieved
them, without striking a blow, for the enemy had with-
drawn, aware of his approach ; and acting strictly up to
the orders he had received, " to make no delay, and risque
nothing beyond the relief of the party," he would not at-
tack their camp outside the village, nor suffer any of his
detachment to meddle with them ; but marched back as
fast as he came, and enabled us to move off to join the
army, the party thus relieved returning with us. As it is
always easy to find fault, Captain Lucas was very generally
blamed for not attacking the Arab camp, only two or three
miles out of his way, when the very well-being of an army
depended on his security and speedy return. In my mind
he acted as became a soldier. I do not know the casual-
ties of the little party, but beheve they were numerous the

1803.] REMINISCENCES. 183

first day, and that they lost their horses and all their bag-
gage during their retreat into the village.

Our supplies being collected, we left Ahmednugger on
the 6th of October ; crossed the Godavery at Raukusgaum,
on the 12th; reached Aurungabad, a distance of one
hundred and thirty miles, on the 16th, where we halted for
two days ; when, being reinforced, we proceeded on the
18th to Poolmarry, thirteen miles and a half, through a
narrow Pass, between small hills, a mile and a half in length,
the hills being steep on both sides of the road, fomiing a
favourable site of attack for the discomfiture of such a
convoy as our's was. The battle of Assaye had collected
all the birds of prey in the country, a few following the
army, and the rest taking possession of the inheritance left
them, by their kindest benefactor, man, on the field of
battle. On the 19th I killed one on the march, an adju-
tant, which seemed by it's attention in following us, to be
anticipating a feast on the road. From the tips of it's
wings this bird measured ten feet across, and was exactly
similar to those so cherished at Calcutta and Fort William,
as public scavengers. I mention this extraordinary fact, be-
cause I had never before seen one in any part of India, the
vicinity of Calcutta and the Hooghly only excepted ; nor
did I ever again see any in after-times in the Mahrattah
country ; proving the strength and power of their olfac-
tory nerves. We encamped this day at Bunkinooly,
having a nullah and small hedge in our rear; the distance
being about fourteen miles.

On the 20th, after an easy march, on a very good road,
we encamped on the nortii bank of a deep river, close to

184 MILITARY [A.D.

the village of Palhood, a distance of thirteen miles and a
half. On this march we passed the second tank or lake I
had seen in the Mahrattah country ; the first being at
Aurungabad ; whereas in all other parts of India, they are
as common as villages.

On the 21st our whole march was through a most ro-
mantic and picturesque country, covered with trees and
verdure, and abounding with game ; of course most de-
lightful to the eye long tortured by the sight of a mono-
tonous cotton soil, and bleak stony hills, without the
slightest relief. We encamped to the eastward of the for-
tified town of Adjunteh, twelve miles from our last ground.
This has evidently been a place of some consequence, in
days gone by ; the Pettah or town is on the south bank of
a deep and beautiful stream, being well fortified, and pos-
sessing many capital buildings, in which our wounded offi-
cers were residing. Over the river, a good stone bridge
conducted us to the fort, on the north bank ; a very neat
stone octagon, in which our wounded men were accommo-
dated, in very airy comfortable barracks, which were quite
novel in native fortifications. A famine then raging pretty
generally in the country, this dehghtful place appeared to
have suffered a very large share of it's horrors ; the ground
all round being actually strewed with the mangled remains
of thousands of it's victims. Unfortunate and wretched na-
tion ! subject at once to two of the heaviest scourges to
which mortality is liable, war and famine ! And ive, to our
shame be it said, the willing instruments of the former !

On the 22nd of October we descended the Adjunteh
Pass, a gradual declivity of about three miles, and joined

1803. J REMINISCENCES. 185

the army, encamped two miles beyond it ; only six miles
distant from Adjunteh.

On the 24th we got intelligence of the capture of
Asseerghur, by Colonel Stevenson's army, and of a signal
victory gained by General Lake, over Scindiah's troops,
under the personal command of a Mr. Lewis, in which the
Mahrattahs suffered a severe defeat, with great slaughter,
and the loss of fifty or sixty guns ; the Bengalees and
Madrasees keeping equal pace in the race of glory.

SCINDIAH'S VAKEEL.*

The army made marches and counter-marches, as our
intelligence prompted, without any thing of consequence
occurring, until the 7th of November, when, during our
encampment at Chichooly, a respectable Vakeel from
Dowlut Row Scindiah arrived in our neighbourhood with
proposals for peace. He was escorted into camp in the
evening, by the Honourable Mounstewart Elphinstone and
Lieutenant A. Campbell, the General's Aid-de-camp, with
a squadron of Native cavalry, under Captain O'Donnell, of
Kurjet Koriagaum. He was richly dressed, and well
mounted ; and had an elephant, two camels, and many led
horses, &,c., escorted by ninety of his master's best cavalry.
Although we had every reason to conclude his mission
was urgent, yet that superstition I before mentioned, here
interfered, and it being deemed an unlucky day, he was
not introduced to the General.

Those dispensers or disposers of celestial favours, the

* Wakeel, or Vakeel, literally translated, would be agent ; but it is
always used for an Ambassador, or Minister from one court to another.

186 MILITARY [A.D.

Brahmins, having, however, kindly decreed the 8th to be
auspicious to the ceremony, preparations were then made
for the due reception of the potent Scindiah's Ambassador;
and many of us, in the best uniforms that a year's wet,
dust, and sunning, could afford, met at the General's tent
at four o'clock in the afternoon. To our great mortifica-
tion, we very speedily found that this hour had also been
proscribed ; and therefore, making a virtue of necessity,
amused ourselves as well as we could, until the ghurries
had chimed five, when every officer who could command a
charger, or a tolerably clean suit, again assembled, and
the procession set forward at sunset, composed of about
one hundred gentlemen, and as many troopers. Having
passed at a canter to the Mahrattah lines on our left, and
there meeting the Vakeel, who with his friends had dis-
mounted to receive the General, we all alighted, when a
guile] imillow, or hugging scene, commenced among the
great folks, which lasted some minutes ; after which the
Ambassador and General Wellesley again mounted, fol-
lowed by the rest, and the cavalcade returned by torch-
light to head-quarters, where the band of his Majesty's
78th regiment and a company were drawn up, who saluted
the Vakeel as he dismounted. The General's tent, a large
square, single poled, of about thirty feet, although half the
officers had retired, could hardly retain the genteel crowd
which remained. Taking a particular interest in such
scenes, I contrived to get close to the General's chair. He
first handed the Vakeel in, and seated him on his right
hand, and Gokliah, our head ally, on his left, and so on
with the rest, according to their rank. A silver salver

1803.] RKMINISCENCKS. 187

with betel was then brought in, which the General dis-
tributed with his own hand, to all the seven natives on his
right and left, entitled to such a compliment. He then
gave them rich dresses and shawls, and lastly, presented
the Vakeel in particular with two superb jewels, and a rich
gold chain, which were immediately fastened round his
turban, and several more beautiful shawls and dresses were
added to this donation : during which time the band of
the 78th played " God save the King," and several other
tunes. The great men conversed on common topics, till
the last present, when the Vakeel told General Wellesley,
in very good Hindoostanee, that " the Maharajah, his
master, wished for nothing so ardently as his friendship
and amity;" and rising to take leave, was conducted to
the door by the General. A great concourse having as-
sembled at the entrance, it was with difficulty the guard
could make way for a very large elephant and beautiful
horse to be brought up, and presented to the Vakeel, who,
mounted on a superb white charger, most richly capari-
soned, galloped off in great style, followed by his presents
and escort ; and thus ended the first visit.

The Vakeel, Esvvunt Row Goreporee, was a man of high
rank in the Mahrattah Empire, and nephew to the famous
Morari Row : he was also dignified with the Persian title
of " Ameer ul Oomrah " Lord of Lords : so extraordinarily
do the Hindoo chiefs, particularly the Mahrattahs, prize
the Mussulman titles. In person he was much above the
common size ; thin, but athletic, and his countenance be-
spoke the man of sense and dignity. He seemed much
pleased with the General's attention, and indeed so was

188 MILITARY [A.D.

every one ; to behold the man, who had only a few days
before resembled a lion in battle, now treating one of the
foe in such a liberal and delicate manner, without even
hinting at any thing likely to give him the slightest uneasi-
ness.

On the 9th of October, five o'clock being, I suppose'
again declared auspicious, the General, at that hour, ac-
companied as the day before, returned the Vakeel's visit.
The ceremony was nearly the same as formerly, but I ob-
served a degree of depression on his fine countenance, which
I attributed to the news that day received, and announced
by a royal salute from our guns, of the defeat of seven bat-
talions of his master's troops under the walls of Agrah, by
General Lake. We returned home in the same state, by
torch-light again : whilst matters remained in similar un-
certainty, and we made several marches without seeing
any more of the enemy until the 29th of November.

BATTLE OF ARGAUM
On the morning of the 29th, our army marched early,
each man having sixty rounds of ammunition, and about
five miles on, met a Vakeel from Bonsala, the Rajah of
Berar, whom the General conversed with, but did not stop
to receive. He told the General that his master's army
was encamped at Putheilee, about ten miles in our front,
and entreated him to halt short of that place, which the
General refused. He then asked seriously, " Whether, if
he came up with their army, he would attack them ?" to
which he rephed, " Most undoubtedly ;" and advised him
to remain with the baggage, which was left at a village

1803. J REMINISCENCES. 189

eight miles on the road, in charge of the rear-guard under
Lieutenant-colonel Orrock. About this time we observed
a cloud of dust a few miles off on our left flank, and con-
cluded, as it proved to be, that it was Colonel Stevenson's
force, moving for the same object ; though no one but the
General knew w^hat that object was. Passing through a
beautiful country, full of game, we even amused ourselves,
as usual, in hunting and shooting on the right flank the
whole way, until after a march of ten miles, we found our
camp colours at a stand ; and Colonel Stevenson's likewise
pitched to our left. Two Vakeels had also met the Colonel
on the march, and persuaded him to halt, assuring him
that we were going to do the same ; but General Wellesley
was not to be outwitted, having sent an order across the
country, with distinct instructions for him to move on. At
two o'clock we reached our ground, and were ordered to
form and rest on our arms ; shortly after whicli we heard
the sound of cannon in front, and missed the General and
our picquets. He soon returned, however, ordered us to
shoulder and move on with our guns, which was instantly
obeyed ; though the country about here was so thickly
covered with high grain, that we could see nothing in our
front for the first three miles ; when coming near a walled
village, and hearing the roaring of cannon increase, we
discovered that we had got into the vicinity of the enemy.
The road through which alone we could advance, was
much circumscribed by the high jowaree ;*' and though at
the village it opened out a little, still our march was con-

* A coarse Indian strain.

190 MILITARY [A.D.

siderably impeded by the picquets and detachment which
had led being thrown into momentary disorder, by the
sudden opening of fifty pieces of cannon on them, the
instant they had passed the village. As soon as we could
pass through them we formed in front of the village Sir-
soney, having a tolerably extensive plain of at least three
miles before it, on which appeared the armies of Bonsala
in the fore-ground, and Scindiah's in their rear ; forming a
kind of doubtful potence on either wing. The Berar in-
fantry, with about fifty guns forming one line, with two
thousand Arabs on the left, and Benee Syng's five thousand
Ghosains in the centre.

Waiting for the arrival and formation of Colonel Steven-
son's force on our left, we were exposed to a heavy
cannonade for some minutes, which our guns feebly tried
to answer; and in this position, our corps being drawn up
exactly in front of the village, on which the enemy's bat-
teries were pointed, as the only entrance to the plain,
severely suffered, in having Lieutenant Turner, two Sub-
adars, one Jemadar, and forty Sepoys knocked down by
cannon shot. The precious remains of the gallant 74th
were on our right, and beyond them the 78th; whilst on
our left were the 1st battalion of the 4th, and the 2nd regi-
ment to the left of them ; I could not see further. At
about half-past four we were ordered to leave our guns and
advance, Colonel Stevenson's force which had further to
march, having just then formed up on our left. It was a
splendid sight to see such a line advancing, as on a field-day ;
but the pause when the enemy's guns ceased firing, and they
advanced in front of them, was an awful one. The Arabs,

1803.] REMINISCENCHS. 191

a very imposing body, singled out our two European regi-
ments ; and when we arrived within about sixty yards,
after a round of grape, which knocked down ten of our
men, and about as many in each of the European regiments,
they advanced and charged us, with tremendous shouts.
Our three corps were at this time considerably in front of
the rest of the line, and a struggle ensued, in which we
killed and wounded about six hundred of these Arabs, and
our corps alone took eight standards. Whilst this was
acting, nearly in the centre, I observed Benee Syng's
Ghosains, dressed like beef-eaters, bearing down to turn
our flank ; but the Arabs once routed, and the rest of our
line coming up, there was little more to do, and it was
soon a perfect rout. The enemy's cavalry made two feeble
attempts to charge our two flank corps, under Captains
Maitland and Vernon, but were repulsed by a steady fire
from each. Our own cavalry had hitherto been kept in
the rear, but the General now ordered them to charge,
and they followed the enemy for some miles, cutting down
about three thousand of the fugitives; who, however, con-
trived to carry away a few light guns, mounted as gallopers,
and left us in quiet possession of the ground they had oc-
cupied, with thirty-eight fine cannon, and immense quan-
tities of ammunition and stores. The field of battle was
strewn with arms, and about one thousand sun-dial tur-
bans, like those worn by the Bengal army ; and twenty
or thirty standards also fell into our hands. By the
account of the prisoners, it appeared that the Bonsala's
army alone, commanded by his brother. Nana Babah,
amounted to ten thousand regular infantry, fifty guns, and

192 MILITARY [A.D.

thirty or forty thousand cavahy ; and Scindiah's troops,
drawn up in their rear, were declared to have taken no
share in the action. However that might be, the General
was extremely displeased with the Maharajah, and accused
him of a breach of his promise, to separate himself entirely
from the Bonsala. Of the army actually engaged, the
five thousand Ghosains, under Benee Syng, escaped to
Gawilghur, and the rest dispersed in various directions.
This was Colonel Stevenson's last engagement, and closed
a long career of honourable and gallant services. He was
even then so ill, that General Wellesley endeavoured to
persuade him not to go into the action : he did, however,
come in a howdah, or litter, on an elephant, and died a
few days afterwards. The General's order on this occasion,
while it did justice to the memory of an excellent old
soldier, did honour to his own heart.

The loss of our army amounted to nearly four hundred
men in killed and wounded ; of which small number only
sixty were actually killed, but cannon-shot wounds are no
joke in general. The officers wounded were Lieutenant
Donaldson of the 94th, mortally. Lieutenwas in the month of January 1804, while on the march,
as V v3 supposed homewards, that the General got accounts
of the Ahmednugger Kheladar, being in force, and com-
mitting depredations at some distance ; on which we made
two or three long marches, though without success. Being
at length determined to come up with, and punish this
lawless banditti, he formed a select party, consisting of
the cavalry brigade, some European foot, and a corps
formed by one hundred volunteers from each native bat-
talion ; in all, about one thousand two hundred infantry ;
who, allowing for all the guards, he, generally mustered
eight hundred on a march ; and putting himself at our
head, for I had the honour to be one of his volunteers,
we moved at a rate no one had ever thought of before.
Our common marches were between twenty and thirty
miles a day, and on the 6th of February, when we came up

204 MILITARY [A.D.

with the enemy's camp at ten o'clock, we had marched
fifty-four miles, in the last twenty-four hours. On seeing
us approach, the Arab infantry slunk into a walled
village called Mankarseer, and the mounted fellows began
to move off as fast as possible. They were, when all col-
lected, said to have amounted to fifty thousand men, with
four guns, immense treasure and plunder, and abundance
of cattle, taken indiscriminately wherever they went ; and
we saw a very extensive, though most motley camp, as we
approached. Lieutenant-colonel Orrock with the 8th regi-
ment, having been left with all our baggage at Perinda, on
our march, the General ordered me to take two hundred vo-
lunteers and dash into the village ; to secure all the arms,
and, if unopposed, grant quarter to the Arabs. This was im-
mediately done, while he placed himself at the head of the
cavalry brigade, and the infantry were directed to follow
as fast as possible. Our native allies having accompanied
us, to them was assigned the task of attacking the enemy's
camp, which they did with great spirit, Gokliah, Appa
Desai, and Vishnoupunt, each leading a few followers to
the charge. The cavalry moving on abreast, ready to
protect them from any ambush ; but our dragoons unfor-
tunately mistaking them for our opponents, as they had
not appeared before all the morning, being at a distance
on the right flank, to secure the enemy, charged them,
and before the mistake was rectified, cut down two or
three, and had one of their own men cut down, in self-
defence. This mistake was, however, momentary only,
and a heavy body of the enemy's horse suddenly appear-
ing, they rallied, and were led on in perfect order to the

1804.] REMINISCENCKS: 207

charge, which the enemy, though numerous, would not
stand to receive, but immediately fled over the plain, leav-
ing our people more at leisure to secure an immense booty.
General Wellesley returned well satisfied with his day's
work ; and as I had not been idle during his absence, he
found me in possession of a variety of weapons of war,
to the number of some thousands, and sixty fine horses ;
from which he told me to select one, and deliver the rest
over to the prize agents. I chose a beautiful Arab mare,
and after resting for three or four days, to ascertain the
positive direction of the bulk of the fugitives, we set out
again in chase, and pursued as far as Sholapoor, where
I believe some terms were accorded ; at least we halted
there, and then returning, marched at the same rate, till
we rejoined the army near Ahmednugger.

SHOLAPOOR,
About two hundred miles north-east of Poonah, was at
this time, one of the finest models of eastern architecture
to be met with in the Mahrattah empire. Washed on one
face by a large and picturesque lake, the fort rose in
majestic beauty, with a number of finely formed stone
bastions, joined by remarkably short curtains, and an
equally well finished fossebray, with a wide and deep
ditch, faced with stone. It had only one gateway, covered
by several bastions and cavaliers ; and when I saw it, was
fidl of guns and armed men, so jealous that they would
not permit any one to approach it. It had a large and
well built Pettah, also walled round, with strong gates,
embracing: another face of the lake ; and little did I then

208 MILITARY [A.D.

dream that this place would afterwards form a part of my
own command, in this then distant country.

POONAH.
After a very tedious and fatiguing march through a
country nearly desolated by war and famine, our army
arrived at Poonah, in the month of April ; and peace being
proclaimed, the subsidiary force, to which, by the kindness
of the General I had been nominated one of the staff, was
cantoned on a plain a short distance from the town.
Colonel Close, the British Resident having returned with
the Peishwa, was now residing in an excellent house, built
at the junction of the Mootah and Moolah rivers, called
the Sungam ; and his garden was one of the loveliest spots
imaginable, being laid out with great taste, and well
stocked with fruit and vegetables, European as well as
native. Several gentlemen belonging to the Residency,
had also small neat houses in the vicinity, but the Sungam
was in fact, an European villa. Time, has, however, now
left no vestige of this house or garden, both being entirely
destroyed in the late war with the Peishwa. His co-ad-
jutor, death, had long previously disposed of the earthly
part of it's noble possessor ; still, memory faithful to his
virtues, recalls the soldier, the statesman, and the friend ;
whilst pride, I trust, in this instance, at least, an honest
feeling, dilates my heart even at this moment, when I
recollect that Barry Close belonged to the Madras army.
With a highly cultivated mind, and the most transcendant
abilities, he was the kind, condescending, and entertaining
host, and many a pleasant hour did we beguile in his com-

1804.] REMINISCENCES. 209

pany. A most capital Persian scholar, and the best Hin-
doostanee student in the peninsula, he transacted all his
own business with the natives, by whom he was greatly
esteemed. Though a short swarthy looking man, and
rather inclining to fat, he was as hardy and active in body
as in mind ; and even when far advanced in life, he would
ride thirty or forty miles a day, and chase a hare, an
antelope, or a fox, with all the fire and vigour of youth.
In short, when Colonel Sir Barry Close died in England, in
the year 1810, he left not a superior, and few if any
equals, in the service.

Colonel Wallace being appointed to command the sub-
sidiary force, Colonel Haliburton, with the Nizam's sub-
sidiary, was cantoned, 1 believe, at Aurungabad, the deter-
mination of our supreme government not being yet fixed re-
specting Holkar, who was still at the head of a large army :
and public matters thus admitting of officers obtaining
leave, I paid a visit, early in May, to our sister Presidency,

BOMBAY.
I can well remember that I performed the whole journey by
land and water in twenty hours. After breakfasting with
Lieutenant-colonel Robertson, General agent for public
cattle, and superintendent of bazars in camp, I borrowed
his horse at ten o'clock, and set out at a canter ; changed
horses when half way, and reached General Wellesley's
tent at Carley, about thirty miles distant, where I tiffed,
and the General declared it was impossible I could reach
Panwell, forty miles further, by sunset, which failing to do,
I must lose a day, as the passage-boat to Bombay would
VOL. I. p

210 MILITARY [A.D.

start at that moment. Having mounted another horse, I
rode to the top of the Ghaut, eight miles, which, though a
very steep and rugged l^ass at that time, I ran down, and
mounting one of my own horses, posted at the bottom,
changed again half way for another, and reached Pan-
well just before the sun set. These seventy miles were
all over strange ground, and some of it, from the foot of
the Pass, remarkably rugged, it not being then much
frequented. Overtaking other officers from our camp, I
pulled out my watch and requested them to witness the
fact ; then embarking with them for Bombay, we reached
that place, twenty-eight miles, before day-break, but could
not land till six. Here I put up with some old friends,
waiting the arrival of my family from Madras, and was,
contrary to my expectation, detained there till the end of
May ; the passage from Madras, on this occasion, taking
three months and a half.

Having once more rejoined the army, on the 22nd of
August the subsidiary force under Colonel Wallace marched
from Poonah, consisting of the following corps : —
The Artillery, — two twelve-pounders, two howitzers, and

four spare sixes.
His Majesty's 74th regiment, now about two hundred

strong.
5th and 7th regiments of Native cavalry, six hundred.
1st battalion of the 3rd regiment of infantry, six hundred.
1 st battalion of the 8th regiment, five hundred ;
And two companies of Pioneers, of which Lieutenant-
colonel Coleman commanded the infantry brigade,
and Lieutenant-colonel Huddlestone the cavalry.

1804.] RKMINISCKNCES. 211

On the 27th of September, when near Aurungabad, we
were also joined by Colonel Huliburton's force, which was
as follows: —

Lieutenant-colonels Lang and Desse, Brigadiers.
His Majesty's Scotch brigade, the 94th regiment, about

three hundred men.
2nd battalion of the 2nd regiment of Native infantry, nine

hundred.
2nd battalion of the 7th regiment of Native Infantry, nine

hundred.
1st battalion of the 11th regiment of Native infantry,

seven hundred.
3rd regiment of light cavalry, four hundred.
6th regiment of light cavalry, three hundred.
With artillery and park, two iron eighteens, two iron
twelves, and two brass twelve-pounders ; two how-
itzers, and field-pieces to corps.
Lieutenant-colonel Ferrier dying the same day, the
command of the 94th regiment devolved on Major James
Campbell.

About this time, being under bad canvass, and exposed
to a heavy monsoon, our camp became sickly, and we lost
both officers and men by a fever of so novel a nature, that
I cannot pass it over without some description. The first
symptoms were an extreme debility and languor, with
giddiness, pains in the joints, great heat of body, and a
quick pulse. The fever continued on some for several days,
on others only one or two, but the effects were the same on
all ; the fit being followed by delirium, and when experienc-
ing a lucid interval, the patients complained of weakness,
p 2

212 MILITARY [A.D.

and pains all over. Many of my own servants remained in
that state for several days, without any return of fever, but
extremely violent at times, and gradually falling off in
flesh; never once shewing any symptoms of returning
reason. Some men died the second day; others, after
being apparently free for a whole month, suddenly re-
lapsed and died ; and all who were thus attacked, seemed
at once to give up every hope of life, and to court death
as a relief. They would lie down on the ground, either in
camp, or on the march, and we were obliged to force them
to move, to save their lives. This malady continued to
infest us for months, and very few indeed escaped with-
out an attack.

On the 8th of October, after a wet and disagreeable
march, we arrived within two miles of the Pettah of
Chandore, at the distance of eighty miles from Aurunga-
bad, and encamped to the southward, on good ground.

CHANDORE.
This hill-fort forms part of a long range of mountains,
running nearly east and west, with occasional breaks, in
which Passes have been made. It is at least one thousand
six hundred feet above the plain ; and having a perpen-
dicular scarp on the summit, about one hundred feet high
all round, might easily be made impregnable. The only
passage up being through gateways, built one above the
other, against this enormous scarp. These gateways are
flanked by large circular bastions ; and those are the only
works in the fort, which is a large barren plain of great
extent, and capable of containing five or six thousand

1804.] REMINISCRNCES. 215

men. At the base of the only accessible side is a very
large and fine walled Pettah, with six gates, within long
shot of the hill, and containing many excellent houses ;
among the rest a Palace belonging to Holkar, which stands
near the middle, and is conspicuous from a distance of
twelve miles. This is an extensive, roomy, strong, and
handsome building, and far surpasses any thing of the
kind I have met with in the Mahrattah empire. On the
evening of the 8th, the picquets and 74th regiment took
possession of the town, without opposition ; and esta-
blished themselves over the gateway, next the fort, from
whence a good foot-path led to tlie upper gate, with a
small outwork half way up, apparently strong, and de-
fended by guns and musquetry. I had the pleasure to be
with the reliefs the next morning, under jVIajor James
Campbell, and was employed all day in reconnoitring, and
forming plans for a scouring party. In one of these re-
connoitrings, Captain A. B. Campbell, our Post-master, of
whom honourable mention was made in the Sherewele
jungle, and at the battle of Assaye, was riding by the
corner of the hill, on which a body of match-lock men
was posted, and was running the gauntlet through their
fire, when his horse stumbled and threw him over his
head. The same impulse, though for very different pur-
poses, induced a party of us, who were looking on from
the picquet, and the Arabs above, instantly to dash to
the spot, but the enemy had much the advantage of us,
from their road being down hill. However, a gracious
Providence watching over him, saved his life on this occa-
sion ; for recovering himself immediately, and luckily

216 MILITARY [A.D.

seizing the bridle with his only hand, he was on horse-
back again before they could reach him, and pursued his
original route, undismayed, to overtake Captain Johnson,
our chief Engineer and Quarter-master-general, and his
escort, at some distance round the hill. In the evening
the picquets were strengthened, and arrangements were
made, by which Major Vesey was left in charge of the
Pettah, with half our corps ; and I had the satisfaction of
leading the other wing to the assault.

The column set out at three o'clock in the morning of
the 10th of October, consisting of two companies of the
94th, one hundred and fifty men of the picquets, and our
three hundred men, each carrying an additional bundle
of spare ammunition ; Captain Johnson conducting Major
Campbell by a road he had explored the day before,
which fully proved his ability and discernment, as it en-
abled us to cut off all the different parties and outposts
from the fort ; and so well was it managed, that the first
intimation of our approach was given by our bayonets.
The poor Arabs, thus surprised, made little resistance;
we commenced our work at day-light, and pushed on so
briskly, that by six o'clock we had quiet possession of
every thing, to the very gate of the fort ; into which some
hundreds of the fugitives endeavoured to get, but were
refused by those already within, who certainly feared we
should follow them. A great number of horses, bullocks,
arms, &c. thus fell into our hands, and we found their
outposts so tenable, that Major Campbell left me in com-
mand of the whole, with one hundred Europeans, and
three hundred and seventy Sepoys, comfortably lodged

1804.] REMINISCENCES. 217

in choultries, houses, and outworks, at different dis-
tances from the gate, and completely cutting off all com-
munication from without. We also took a mortar and some
guns in the nearest post, the only one visible from the
Pettah ; and all this was achieved, without the loss of a
single life on our side, only three men being wounded. Of
the enemy forty dead bodies were left on the ground ; we
could not ascertain the number of wounded ; but as we
fired a good deal at them, occasionally within a short dis-
tance, I had reason to think they were numerous. Two
days after thus estabHshing ourselves on the hill, the gar-
rison surrendered, and were permitted to march out, three
hundred men, with their baggage and effects. We were
greatly astonished, on entering through the gates, to find
the fort much stronger than, from outward appearances,
we had been led to suppose : the scarp of the rock being
generally one hundred and fifty feet perpendicular, and
the passage through the two upper gateways, cut in the
solid rock, very narrow, and at least thirty feet long each.
It had however, no good buildings on the summit ; even it's
few old guns were ill mounted ; and, in short, did not appear
to have been inhabited, until our sudden appearance on the
plain, drove the small garrison up. They had thus been
cut off from all supplies, and we had taken the most ef-
fectual mode of driving them out, by shutting them in
against their will.

The view from this enormous mountain is most extensive
on either side, embracing the whole country, both north
and south ; and the rivers marked by a verdant line, con-
tinually curved, but never expanding. At the first post.

218 MILITARY [A.D.

half way up, there was a capital building and Pagoda,
surrounded by trees. Within the first gateway was a
deep tank cut in the rock, with another about one hundred
yards from the upper one on the summit ; and from all
appearances, the ground might be cultivated for the sup-
port of a sufficient garrison. A considerable quantity of
public property being captured, I was chosen a prize-
agent; but never derived the smallest benefit from my
appointment, as it was not sold, and we did not get any
prize-money for this war.

LASSULGAUM.
On the morning of the 8th of October, when we marched
against Chandore, the 2nd battalion of the 7th regiment of
Native infantry, with two twelve-pounders, under the com-
mand of Captain John Brown, was sent against a place
called Lassulgaum, about twelve miles south from Chan-
dore ; where the strength of the place and the number of
it's defenders were both entirely conjectural. They marched
up to the Pettah gate, blew it open, and advanced with
little opposition, till they gained the opposite side, where
there was situated a very compact native Ghurrie, or
citadel, with bastions towering over the suburbs ; and no
sooner did they quit the shelter of the houses than they
were exposed to so a heavy fire, that Captain Brown and
Lieutenant Purvis were killed, and Lieutenant Parlby
wounded ; four artillery-men killed and five wounded, and
ten Sepoys killed and fifteen wounded ; when the rest re-
treated into the Pettah, and sent for assistance. It so
happened, that all the rest of the European officers were

1804.] UEMINISCENCKS. 219

left ill of the fever in our camp; and while the reinforce-
ment was marching to their relief, the doctor of the corps
overheard a debate, that might have involved the most
serious consequences. The Quarter-master-serjeant and
Serjeant-major were disputing on whom the command of
the corps would devolve the next morning, in consequence
of Lieutenant Parlby's wound. The Serjeant-major claimed
it, as his right, by virtue of his superior stafF-appointment,
and the Quarter-master-serjeant, as the oldest soldier :
neither of them considering, that the Surgeon was a gentle-
man, and ranked with officers ; nor that there were eighteen
or twenty Subadars and Jemadars, Native officers, all hold-
ing commissions from government. The arrival of the de-
tachment the next morning put an end to the debate ; but
as similar circumstances are occasionally occurring, the
proper order of precedence should be positively defined by
superior authority. In the present uncertainty four claim-
ants might have preferred their claims, with all appearance
of reason ; the Surgeon, the two Serjeants, and the senior
Subadar ; all equally entitled to command, or rather, all
equally unfit for it : though we should naturally give the
gentleman the preference. I have known many similar
disputes in the course of my service, and never could get
a decision, when T have interfered and addressed my su-
periors.

The intelligence of the disaster at this place reached
Colonel Wallace as we were entering the Pettah gate, in
consequence of which orders were sent to the camp ; and
before sunset a party, under the command of Major Sim-
mons, was ready to march. They reached the Pettah of

220 MILITARY [A.D.

Lassulgaum that night, and next morning at day-break
commenced to knock off the defences. Not a soul appeared,
and it was doubted whether the garrison remained, or had
absconded in the night. However, four guns well em-
ployed in such a situation, soon demolished the parapet
and faces of the ghurrie, when the storming party, under
Captain J. Lindsay of the 1 1 th, blew the gate open and
entered. No sooner had a few men got fairly inside, than
they were assailed by a body of Arabs from within, some
of whom actually forced their way out, but were all killed
by our gallant comrades. Our loss was not severe, but
I did not ascertain particulars. The inhabitants of the
Pettah having made no resistance, were left unmolested,
and the detachment returned to camp on the 10th.

As C bandore was reckoned the capital of a district, the
strong hill fort of Dhoorp was included in the capitulation ;
and I had therefore the pleasure of taking possession of it,
in the name of the Peishwa.

DHOORP.
This place is situated eighteen miles to the westward
of Chandore, in the same range of mountains. It is cer-
tainly strong, but not half so high as Chandore ; though
the rocky perpendicular scarp is nearly the same, excepting
on the eastern face, where three tiers of gateways form the
only entrance, and embrace a gradual ascent to the sum-
mit. About half way from the gateways to the western
extremity, there is a natural embrazure, extending con-
siderably downward, by which it appeared to me, that a
surprise, with scaling ladders, might be successfully at-

1804. J RKMlNiSCENCKS. 223

tempted, because I did not observe any works near it ; the
whole, as at Chandore, being confined to one spot, and
certainly very well built ; though, as I was never on the
opposite side, and had not time to go up into the fort, I
may be mistaken in it's strength.

The Pettah, a very superior native town, is built about
half way up the hill, and contained many excellent houses,
with an appearance of comfort and abundance seldom
met with, at least at that time, in the Mahrattah country.

On the morning of the 14th of October, accompanied
by a respectable servant of the Peishwa, Manoher Geer
Gosaie, at the head of three hundred men, two companies
of Sepoys, and three European officers, I arrived and en-
camped at the foot of the hill ; when the said head man
sent up a letter, and we proceeded by ourselves to the
Pettah, where we were met by all the principal inhabitants,
who saluted and escorted us into the Cutcherry, in which we
were detained nearly three hours, waiting the arrival of the
Khelladar from the fort, according to previous agreement.
At length, at one o'clock, P.M., he made his appearance,
with a few of his men, when we met him part of the way,
and salutes having passed, conducted him into the Cut-
cherry. He seemed a sensible man, and we conversed
together for about an hour, when all matters being amica-
bly arranged, the garrison marched out, and we took pos-
session. Finding eleven pieces of ordnance in the Pettah,
we fired a salute with them, to apprise our friends in camp
of our success ; and the Peishwa's men ascending to the
fort, we descended to our camp, and marching next morn-

224 MILITARY [A.D.

ing, returned by a nearer road to Chandore, making the
distance only fifteen miles and a half.

The heavy rain which detained us two days longer in
this position, having cleared up a little, on the 17th we
made a march of ten miles, when, passing the Pettah and
hill of Chandore, we descended a ghaut about three miles
further. This we found practicable for guns, though it
had no space on either side for baggage ; the unfortunate
result of which, was, that when we were encamped in a
low jungle about three miles from the foot of the Pass,
and north-east-by-east from Chandore ; one half of the
materiel of the army had not arrived, even by nine o'clock
at night. Having halted in consequence, the whole of the
next day was taken up with the arrival of baggage from
morning till night, and we experienced nothing but distress
and complainings throughout the camp. We were sur-
rounded by abundance of game, but the ground was far too
soft and swampy for pleasant sporting ; hares, hogs, and
antelopes, were dashing through the camp with dogs and
men after them, in full cry ; but my horses were sore-backed,
my cattle dead and dying, all my servants ill, and want of
carriage for them and my baggage severely felt. My guns
were therefore unloaded, and my spears laid by, on the
spot of all others in which they might have been well em-
ployed, and assuredly would have been so, under any
other circumstances.

October the 19th, we marched fourteen miles over a wild
country covered with long grass and bushes, and full of
game; crossed the Geernah, a large and deep river, and

1804.] RKMINISCENCRS. 227

encamped on the north bank near the village of Angare.
This was a very hot and clear day, without a cloud to be
seen from sunrise till sunset; and many of our poor fellows
were consequently left behind on the road, where, ex-
hausted by the prevailing fever, they sank down, without
an effort to preserve themselves, and seemed to court death
as a friend, who would at once relieve them from sufferings
they wanted fortitude to bear.

On the 20th we moved ten miles on soft cotton
ground, full of ravines, and covered with bushes and
thorns; crossed another branch of the Jeernah, and en-
camped in grass and soft ground, near the villages of
of Cashtee and Dablee. We had this day both heat and
cold in extremes, with a heavy dew at night.

On the 21st, after passing through two hills, at the
eastern extremity of a range, we encamped within three
miles of the Fort of Galnah ; the valley being extremely
uneven, and covered with bushes. This march was about
twelve miles and a half, and we had a clear view of this
hill-fort on the south side.

GALNAH.
Few places have a more imposing appearance from a dis-
tance than Galnah, particularly on the northern side ; the
Pettah being situated at the foot of the hill, and joined to
it by a wall, commanded by the upper works. It is not
very high, but standing on an uncommon rock, rising
about six hundred feet from the plain, with most substan-
tial fortifications all round, even where the cliff is perpen-
dicular, it is both strong and extensive. There are several
VOL. I. Q 2

228 MILITARY [A.D.

works on the Pettah side, through which is the only gate-
way, with stone steps leading up to it, and some also on
the eastern face, to counteract the effects of a small hill,
not above half it's height, and joined to it's base in that
direction. The ascent is every where steep and difficult,
and the walls uncommonly strong ; but there is a large
smooth space on the summit, about five hundred yards
long, nearly four hundred broad, and at least one hundred
feet above the upper walls, which ought to have been for-
tified to complete it's defences ; for with a good ditch, not
being visible within breaching distance, in any direction
from below, it would be impregnable. The Pettah con-
tained many good houses, with flat terraced roofs, which
rendered them tenable when we had obtained possession ;
and the fort had a Khelladar's house, a Mosque, cutcherry,
&c. ; all excellent buildings.

On the morning of the 22nd of October, Lieutenant-
Colonel Coleman, with one hundred men of the 74th re-
giment, one hundred men of the 94th, the 1st battalion of
the 3rd, and 1st battalion of the 11th regiments, was
ordered to storm the Pettah and approaches. We marched
at three, A. M., and when we arrived near the small eastern
hill, he was kind enough to nominate me to command a
party of fifty Europeans, and two Native light companies,
to climb and take possession of this post, as we supposed
it to be. On reaching the summit the day broke, and we
then found ourselves in an excellent position to annoy the
enemy, of whom none had been there, nor was it fortified.
The shot from our musquetry, therefore, kept them well
employed all day, and served as a diversion from the

1804.] RKMINISGl^NCKS. 229

Pettah, which Colonel Coleman entered about daylight,
with little opposition. Although we had a clear view of
all the eastern face of the hill, yet our position was useless
after the first day ; because, independent of the extreme
difficulty of dragging a gun up such a steep and rugged
ascent, the upper wall could not have been breached from
it, and there was no possibility of advancing to a storm in
that direction. It was, however, easy to find spots on the
plain for a breaching battery, and one was erected at a
short distance west of the Pettah, where the wall came
down to about four hundred feet, and our small post was
not occupied again, though the Pettah continued to be so ;
and as the camp was at such a distance on the other side
of the hill, it ^became the head-quarters of the troops on
duty. The enemy were not idle all this time, but fired
a great deal, particularly musquetry, and they really
appeared good marksmen ; though their guns, when we
got near, were of little avail, for they could not depress
them sufficiently, and the ground not having been cleared
of low jungle, and being in high cultivation, afforded con-
siderable shelter to those approaching from a distance. In
short, the garrison, though brave men, and good shots,
were not soldiers. Our batteries of eight guns, opened
on the morning of the 24th, and played all day on two
spots in the north-western face of the wall ; the one a
salient and prominent part, and the other a re-entering
angle. In the latter a breach was effected by sun-set, but
the other resisted the shot so completely, that the artillery
were compelled to take a new object for the next day.
Being in the trenches this evening, it was proposed that

230 MILITARY [A.D.

two men should climb up and examine the breaches ; for
which duty, two artillery-men having volunteered, they set
out about seven o'clock, followed at a short distance by
Captain Fisher, of the Bombay artillery, and two more of
his men, who were also again supported by a strong party
at the base of the hill. The night proved so extremely
dark, that they actually reached both breaches without
discoveiy ; the one to the right, at the re-entering angle,
being, however, much more exposed than his comrade,
was suddenly fired at by two sentries, with such good aim,
that both balls entered his body, and he rolled down to the
very spot where Captain Fisher and the other two were
watching below, who, also immediately took to the roUing
system, and all four soon reached the spot where I was
standing, much bruised, and their bodies stuck full of
thorns. We waited some time for the other man, and then
returned to the battery ; whilst the enemy kept up a con-
stant fire from every part of the works, and threw large
stones over, which thundered down to the bottom, any one
of which would have killed our rolling adventurers. They
also burned blue lights, and set off rockets, &c. ; and had
we known of the safety of our missing volunteer, it would
have been one of the most entertaining and interesting
sights I had ever beheld. As it was, being resolved to
avenge the supposed death of our comrade, we fired grape
at both breaches, from the eight battering guns', until the
enemy having, as I suspect, expended all their ammuni-
tion, a cessation followed, with a stillness far more awful
than the loudest thunder of their artillery. Our bruised
and wounded volunteer was carried to the hospital, and, I

1804.] REMINISCIiNCKS. 231

am happy to add, was not mortally wounded. We had a
good deal of amusement in picking the thorns out of
Captain Fisher's body for some time afterwards, and were
not a little pleased to see our second adventurer suddenly
arrive at the battery about day break, with a whole skin,
when his account of his night's enterprise was most
eagerly hstened to by all of us. He had reached the foot
of the left breach, if it could be so called, at the moment
the firing commenced at the other, and taking warning-
early, crept under a large hollow rock below it, where he
was perfectly secure from above, and heard the rocky
fragments rolling by, and bullets whistling over him from
the breach without much uneasiness, but when our guns
began to salute him with grape from below, his situation
was not exactly a bed of roses. He, however, escaped by
good fortune, and was most thankful when we ceased firing.
He described the breach as totally impracticable, and so it
really was, and our guns, therefore, opened the next morn-
ing on a new spot, and played till eleven o'clock ; when
both being reported assailable, the two storming parties
were prepared, and I was relieved from the trenches, to
lead my own company. The grenadiers were to scale the
right, and the light Infantiy the left, all under Colonel
Coleman; and we were just starting to get a few broken
heads, when the Khelladar's heart beginning to melt, he
hung out flags of truce, and sent down a respectable look-
ing man, with three attendants, to request a cessation of
two hours, when they would either evacuate the place, or
we should commence again. At the conclusion of this
short truce, the batteries re-opened with fresh vigour, and

232 MILITARY [A.D.

poured in a dreadful fire at both breaches ; which being
a hint they could not mistake, their messenger, therefore,
very speedily returned, bringing two hostages with him,
and a promise to surrender the lower gate at gun-firing
next morning. This was a very hot and trying day, with-
out a cloud in the whole firmament ; and the flank com-
panies of our army, after being exposed to the influence
of a burning sun, had subsequently to feel the extreme of
a very cold and dewy night, during which we lay on our
arms, ready to advance at a moment's warning. The
dawn of the 26th, however, witnessed the Khelladar coming
down with his garrison, and our taking quiet possession
of the outer gate, in the guard-room of which Colonel
Coleman received him, in presence of a number of
officers, and we conversed, and drank tea and coffee
together, while his troops were marching out. Balam
Bhai, a respectable Syed, seemed a well-informed man, and
conversed with great ease on various subjects. He said he
was fully assured of our ultimate success ; as, " he knew
the English carried every thing before them ;" but thought
we must have lost a number of men, as the breaches were
extremely steep, and they were well prepared with stones
to roll down on the storming parties. He acknowledged
two men killed, and a number wounded, particularly from
the small hill the first day. His garrison carried off every
thing of value with them, and we assisted him with four
camels and two carts, to remove whatever he pleased ; for
which he appeared extremely grateful. His troops con-
sisted of one hundred Arabs only, the remainder being
Moormen and Mahrattahs, armed with match-locks, swords,

1804.] REMINISCENCES. 233

and daggers. We found nearly one hundred guns and
swivels mounted on the works ; about one hundred thou-
sand seers of rice, and other grain, but no valuables : a
number of black-faced monkies, remarkably tame ; many
springs and stone tanks, and the buildings I have already
enumerated. Our loss, during this short siege, was only
one man killed and ten wounded ; but several of us had
narrow escapes, as the marksmen hit Colonel Coleman,
the indefatigable Johnson, one or two other officers, and
myself, without any serious injury. Major Leonard, of
the 5th cavalry, coming down, an amateur, to the battery,
was also knocked over, and his palanquin broken by a
cannon shot. On this same day, while I was otherwise
employed, I had informed Lieutenant Bryant, the hero of
Kurjet Koriagaum, that there were pea-fowl a short
distance off, when he sallied out and brought home a
grass-cutter, whom he had taken for a peacock; hearing a
rustling behind a bush, and mistaking her blue cloth for
feathers, he fired, and shot her dead. I must do him the
justice, however, to state, that he was greatly distressed ;
and not only brought her corpse back in his arms, paid
for her interment, and gave her family a handsome present,
but actually came to deliver himself up to me, being Judge
Advocate of the force, as the only legal practitioner in the
camp.

Our army now moved ground to the Pettah side of the
hill, and while the Pioneers were employed in making a
road for our battering guns, we had time to visit all three
breaches, only one of which could we ascend, even by
assisting each other : so that, had we reached it's foot.

234 MILITARY [A.D.

with an intention of entering, we must have requested the
garrison to help us up with ropes, and fight us afterwards.

The breaches being repaired, and Major Simmons, with
the 11th Native infantry, left in Galnah, with all the sick
officers and men, we marched on the 3rd of November,
leaving also the heavy guns and stores behind. la two
days we reached the river Paunjur, and keeping on it's
banks, had arrived at CowtuUah, near Sonegeer, a distance
of forty miles from Galnah, when Colonel Wallace, re-
quested me, though one of his staff, to take charge of a
detachment of Native horse and foot, and find my way to
Surat for supplies; and as I was the first European who
ever went this, then unknown route, I shall give extracts
of every day's march.

On the 13th of November I left the army, and proceeded
to Neemkhaira, about ten miles distance, an old village,
full of high grass and scattered bushes, on the bank of the
Paunjur.

On the 14th we had a long and tedious march, of six-
teen miles, to Koosumbah, on the same river. This, now
nearly deserted place, has two walls and a citadel ; the
space between the walls is capable of containing a camp of
three or four corps, and there are several good buildings
within the second. There is also much deep jungle, with
long grass, and high trees on the banks, which are full of
tigers, antelopes, hares, hogs, pea-fowl, &c.

On the 15th we reached Naire, a large inhabited village,
six miles further, and encamped in a tope, to the westward
of it.

Our route on the 16th, lay through a wild uneven

1804.] REMINiSCKNCES. 235

country ; we crossed the river, a branch of tlie Kaum
Paunjur, and encamped at Saukey, a walled village, with
an excellent mud ghurry, about sixteen miles distant. The
ghurry would make a capital post for one or two hundred
men ; and on the opposite bank is another village, called
Baurnah.

On the 17th, we found the country much more open
than formerly, with small hills on either side, varying the
prospect. After a pleasant march of fourteen miles and a
half, we encamped in a tope, opposite Peepulnaur, a large
fortified village, on the right bank of the Paunjur, with a
very high ghurry on the western side of it, and a tope, and
cultivated fields to the southward. This was by far the
most flourishing place I had seen on the march ; and yet,
two-thirds of it's houses were uninhabited, so dreadful had
been the ravages of war and famine.

November the 18th, on an extremely cold morning, we
passed over a most romantic and beautiful country, con-
sisting of small vallies and low picturesque hills, covered
with trees and bushes. The Paunjur, now considerably
reduced in size, marking it's serpentine course by fine
topes and lovely verdure, as it wound through the vallies or
passed by the bases of the hills ; the road, though pretty
fair generally, being occasionally intersected by deep
nullahs and ravines. We encamped near the insignificant
village of Barsah, or Warsah, on the bank of the Paunjur ;
I believe about four miles from it's source, and ten miles
from our last ground. Of some extraordinary looking hills
in a range to the southward, I remember only Emaumghur
and Pissool, two strong hill-forts, nearly opposite yester-

236 MILITARY [A.D.

day's march; and Ruttunghur, peeping over the range
to-day, apparently a Gibraltar. There were, however, also
two other curious looking rocks near our present ground,
called Sindur Bowaunee, with small temples on the sum-
mits, and said to be the source of the Paunjur.

On the 19th, we descended a small rugged ghaut, by a
bad road, about eight miles long, through high grass and
large teak and banian trees, and encamped near a small
nullah and two miserable tappall huts in the jungle, where
we could obtain nothing but water.

At day-light on the 20th, we again proceeded through
teak and banian forests, up and down hills, through vallies
covered with high grass and tall reeds, and, at the end
of a fourteen miles' march, encamped under the spreading
branches of an immense banian tree, called Chimaire;
without a vestige of any human habitation near it. Being
anxious to take some bearings from a rising ground in our
neighbourhood, I endeavoured to force my way through
the grass and reeds, but could not effect it, and was very
glad to find my road back again. To ascertain the height
of the grass, I held up my gun at arm's length, and could
then perceive it some feet above the muzzle. The teak '
trees were also extremely large, and fit for the finest tim-
ber ; and, on the whole, we were so incommoded by wood
the whole way, that I could not help drawing a com-
parison between these wilds and the country round Poonah,
where I used to pay one rupee for a mere handfull of
dry straw for my camels, and good fire-wood was worth
nearly it's weight in silver. Here we were encumbered by
wild grass and the finest trees, subject to destruction only

1804.] REMINISCENCES. 237

in the dry season, from their own collision, and the intense
heat of the sun. For lack of better employment, I amused
myself in endeavouring to calculate the value of each square
mile of encumbrance in this part of the Peishwa's do-
minions, where they serve only to shelter beasts of prey and
robbers, both alike inimical to the enterprising merchant
and the peaceful traveller.

On the 21st, our march was through similar country and
difficulties, with the addition of a ghaut to descend ; but
the wild beauty of the whole, particularly the scenery in
the ghaut, made amends for the time we took to reach a
nullah, and the village of Shaderwele, at ten miles dis-
tance. Here we encamped mider a few umbrageous trees,
and were perfectly astonished at the abundance and
cheapness of grain of all sorts, and indeed every article of
provisions. The high state of cultivation all round was
another source of admiration, after being so long con-
demned to witness the barren and dreary aspect of the
Mahrattah plains.

ATHAWEESY COUNTRY.
The first two miles of our march, on the 22nd, was on a
good road, and through a cultivated country; but from
thence to Bunder Parah, eight miles further, by a very
narrow winding pathway, in deep jungle, over nullahs, and
small hills ; and the last nine miles, on a beautiful higli
road, in open country. This being a very long and fa-
tiguing march, we rested for two hours at the first village,
and did not reach our ground near Bearah, until late in
the day ; where we encamped on the bank of a large lake.

238 MILITARY [A.D.

covered with game. This is a large and respectable vil-
lage, full of inhabitants, and having two neat and well
built forts, at a short distance from it : the smallest gar-
risoned by one hundred Bombay Sepoys, with the Guick-
waur's flag flying ; and the other, with the same colours,
filled with his own peons, or foot soldiers of the country,
and, though much larger, not so strong.

Having made ray arrangements for the comfort of my
detachment in this strange country, where, however, every
body was kind and civil, I mounted my horse at eleven
o'clock, A.M., on the 24th, and reached Bardolee Cusbah,
about twenty miles distant, at six in the evening. This
place belongs to the Company, and is a handsome vil-
lage, with some bazars, and other good buildings in it.
Having no one with me but my horse-keeper, I put up
for the night in an upstair house, where I received great
kindness from a Parsee manager, who gave me a meal
and something to sleep upon ; and at half-past three o'clock
the next morning proceed to Surat castle, twenty-one miles
distant, where I arrived about ten, and immediately re-
ceived an invitation from Mr. IV. Crow, the Chief, to go and
live with him, in the town.

SURAT.
The perusal of Eastern history, and more particularly
of the Arabian Nights' Tales, had made me very desii'ous
to visit this famous town ; and I was therefore pleased to
i it's extent and magnificence had not been much ex-
aggerated. Delightfully situated on the southern bank of
the Tuptee, or Tapty, as the English call it, about sixteen

IHOl] HKMINISCIiNCES. ' 239

miles from it's mouth, the interior, in it's present state;, is
about five miles in circumference, with a wall entirely round
it, and an outer wall, twice as extensive, still standing in
a dilapidated state, with less respectable habitations be-
tween them. The inner town is one of the largest and
most opulent I have seen in India : it contains many ca-
pital dwelling-houses, both European and native ; a
famous bazar, uncommonly well stocked, with every arti-
cle of use and luxury ; and being washed by the river,
for perhaps two miles, the houses on that face are remark-
ably pleasant, airy, and cheerful, commanding a prospect,
as novel as it is enchanting. In the foreground, numerous
vessels are constantly gliding up and down the river ; rich
green and yellow fields of paddy are close to the water's
edge in the middle ; whilst gardens, topes, and forests
form a termination to the prospect, which renders it the
Italy of the East; though, unhappily, it is extremely un-
healthy. The population is estimated at four hundred
thousand souls, of whom nearly fifty thousand are Par-
sees, who are the principal artisans ; carpenters, joiners,
goldsmiths, braziers, blacksmiths, turners, &c. ; it was
quite a treat to me, to see them at work, with European
tools and in an European manner, and really they were
remarkably moderate in their charges : a turner, for in-
stance, made me a handsome set of ivory chess-men for
five rupees, and a flute, of the same materials, for two.
The finest vegetables in the East grow in luxuriant abun-
dance in this neighbourhood, including uncommonly good
potatoes ; and they furnish the Bombay market very largely
from their superfluity ; since, though the distance is about

240 MILITARY [A.D.

two hundred miles, the voyage is generally very short. To
look for regularity or symmetry, in any Indian town, would
be in vain ; and Surat has this blemish, perhaps, more than
any other place of any importance, from it's motley popula-
tion, composed not only of people of all nations, but also
of all ranks ; from the Prince to the Haukpeize, or sweeper.
The streets are narrow, and the houses almost meet each other
over them, forming a kind of colonnade for foot passengers.
The river is navigable for small vessels, for some miles
above the place, and I believe for boats up to Bearah.
The castle is about a mile to the eastward of the town, and
is a very neat little fortification, with high walls and
round towers at the angles ; each having two tier of ports
for embrasures, and mounting about sixty pieces of cannon ;
some of which are even thirty-two pounders, though there
is not room to work one half of them. There are two ca-
pital buildings in two of the bastions, the Commandant's
and Fort-adjutant's ; it is also washed by the Tuptee, and
the view from it, excels any from any part of the town.
Over the gate is an inscription in Peisian, intimating that
this is the ne plus ultra for Europeans in the East. The
European inhabitants, at this time, were Mr. N. Crow,
Magistrate and Agent for the Governor General, a title
substituted by the Marquess Wellesley for Chief; Mr.
Bird, Collector ; Mr. Brown, Commercial Resident ; Mr.
Sparrow, Assistant Collector; Mr. Ivison, and Mr. Crozier,
of the Civil Service ; Colonel Reynolds, Surveyor General ;
Colonel Anderson, commanding the troops ; Captain
Harding, commanding the Castle; and Captain Seton,
Superintendent of Supplies. Colonel Anderson had a corps

1804.] RRMINISCKNCES. 241

under him, called the Ctli regiment, one thousand six
hundred strong, with but very few European olHcers, all
being then sick in quarters. The medical gentlemen were
Messrs. Poujet and M'Kenzie,

Mr. Crow's house was a delightful, roomy, and well-
furnished building, near the river's side ; and the owner,
one of the kindest and most hospitable of men. Being
also a capital native scholar, and a man of general inform-
ation, it was a real treat to spend a few days in his com-
pany, and I had also the extraordinary gratification of
witnessino; a scene in his house, which made a lastino; im-
pression on me.

An American ship had arrived there a few days before,
the Captain of which, on landing, had given his writing-
box into the hands of a respectable looking man on the
shore, and proceeded himself to the place he was to reside
in. On his arrival he looked in vain for his box, which
had entirely disappeared, and being a perfect stranger,
could not trace the individual into whose custody he had
delivered it. He went to Mr. Crow, and, stating his loss to
be very heavy, requested his interference to recover it;
and as he appeared to be greatly affected, Mr. C. judged
that it must be of consequence. He, therefore, published
a notification, that such a box had been handed to some
person who had failed to carry it to the Captain's house ;
that it contained papers which could be of no value to any
one else, and that the Police were prepared to trace it, and
punish the offender; but, that if the box were lodged in a
certain spot within three days, no further enquiry should

VOL. I. R

242 MILITARY [A.D.

take place, and the Magistrate promised forgiveness to the
offender.

The third day after this pubhcation, while we were
sitting at dinner, a small morocco trunk was brought in
by one of Mr. Crow's peons ; I was then perfectly ignorant
of the whole occurrence, when shortly afterwards, a gentle-
man being announced, after compliments had passed,
and he was seated at table, Mr. Crow told him, he had
been fortunate enough to recover his box for him. Never
shall I forget the strong exhibition of feeling which this
poor man's countenance presented at these words. He
clasped his hands together, and told Mr. C. " he had
saved him from utter ruin and despair ; and that it never
could be in his power to express the gratitude he felt."
Mr. Crow interrupting him, advised his opening of the
box, to ascertain that all was right within. He did so
with a trembling hand, and the first thing which attracted
my attention, was a bundle of papers, which, holding up,
he declared to be those of his ship, and assured Mr. Crow
that he had saved his life, " for that, in despair, he had,
four hours before, resolved to shoot himself; for four days
he had not touched a morsel of food, and intended to have
blown his brains out that very night!" " Albeit, unused
to the melting mood," I could have cried for joy. He
said, he never could have shewn his face again in America ;
and the first English ship he had met would have made a
lawful prize of his vessel and cargo. I now for the first
time, fully understood the whole, as I have here stated it ;
Mr. Crow telling him, that on his account, he had resolved

1804.] REMINISCENCES. 243

to suffer the culprits to escape unpunished, and m conse-
quence of the effectual measures he had pursued, the box
was restored, without tracing the thieves. This poor man.
had not strength of mind to bear up against unmerited
misfortunes and disgrace ; and to avoid a lesser evil, was
about to have committed suicide, and to have rushed un-
called into the presence of his Maker !

A large Fives-court had been erected outside, and
public baths within the town, at the former of which we
generally assembled to play every evening ; and almost every
gentleman's house contained a Billiard-table. One of the
greatest treats, however, which I enjoyed at Surat, was the
acquaintance of Colonel Reynolds, the Surveyor-general,
who lived in a garden-house some distance from the town ;
and as he has since, together with my amiable host,
quitted this world for a better, I may venture to express
the opinion I then formed, without the fear of hurting his
delicacy. A soldier of thirty-three years' service in the
East, he had suffered much from fever, and yet appeared a
hale young man ; such is one of the advantages of tem-
perance. With a fine manly person and genteel address,
he possessed more knowledge of the country than any man
I have ever conversed with in India ; and in his hall 1 had
the gratification of crawling over a map, fourteen feet long
and ten broad ; to do which, without injury to a pro-
duction intended to be presented to the Court of Directors,
he furnished me with silk stockings for hands and feet ;
and cased in these I moved about at pleasure, stopping at
particular spots for information, which was immediately
R 2

244 MILITARY [A.D.

obtained, from a library of immense folio manuscripts in
his own hand-writing. So laborious a work I never could,
without occular demonstration, have believed to be the pro-
duction of one European, in such a climate as the East
Indies : and with only two assistants he was now making
another map on a larger scale, which, when completed,
was to measure thirty feet by twenty! A similarity of
pursuits soon leads to confidence and intimacy ; I gave
Colonel Reynolds copies of my routes, in directions where
he had not an opportunity of surveying himself; and he
very kindly allowed me to peruse such of his manuscripts
as contained any information I required. At parting, also,
he presented me with an English perambulator, which
proved of the utmost service to me, in correcting any errors
in my late routes, after leaving the army ; having brought
a theodolite only, to take bearings, and computing my dis-
tances by a watch.

On the day of my arrival at Surat, Lieutenant Maddison,
a very powerful young man from our camp, died of the
fever, after three days' illness ; and I was permitted, as
there was no Clergyman present, to read the service over
his remains. Captain Ahier, who was travelling with him,
also caught the fever at the same time, embarked for the
Malabar coast, and died at sea. The natives, however,
suffered by far the most, and many of them died daily,
both there and in our camp at Bearah. It seemed very
much like the yellow fever in the West Indies. How
strange, that a place which affords such gratification to
the eye, should be the seat of pestilence and death ! yet

1S04.] RKMINISC'KNCIJS. 245

sjucli is Surat ; and in it I inhaled the germ of that disease
which was to embitter, with severe ilhiess, several years of
my after-life.

Taking leave of my kind host, I returned to my own
party at Bearah ; and there, on the 14th of December, met
my old friend, Lieutenant Egan, who had done duty with
our corps all the first Mahrattah war, and who was now Fort-
adjutant of Surat, returning from our army, in charge of a
convoy ; and having several sick officers with him, going
to Surat for health ! They had followed our route, through
the Shaderwele Ghaut, and therefore had no difficulties :
our party having cleared, as they came along, not only the
road, but also encamping ground at each stage. Being
desired to survey another Pass more to the northward, and
having got a reinforcement of one hundred men from
Colonel Anderson, I set out, on the 16th of Decmbcr, with
two hundred Sepoys, under Native officers, and the two
hundred Native horse, in charge of a convoy of one hun-
dred and thirty-five carts, and seven thousand bullocks,
laden with stores and provisions for our army, exclusive
of a great variety of private supplies for the camp.

SOANGIIUR.
We reached Soanghur, a distance of twelve miles and
a half, at eleven, A. M., and encamped near a small nuUaii
to the eastward of the town. The fort is situated on a
rugged hill, about five hundred feet high, and tolerably
steep; one half of the brow of which was still covered
with deep jungle, composed of large trees and underwood,
in which there were five tigers known to reside, and two

246 MILITARY [A.D.

had been shot by Lieutenant Bond, then in command of
the place, with a company of Bombay Sepoys. It had a
wall all round the summit, with tower bastions, and a
citadel at the foot of the most accessible part ; eveiy bastion
being casemated with two or three tiers of guns. Still
it is not a place of any strength, and therefore Lieutenant
Bond, and another young officer, who defended it suc-
cessfully against an army of Holkar's, with only two
hundred Bombay Sepoys, deserved the greater credit ;
since the enemy even got possession of an angular bastion
on the summit, and were fairly beaten out again by this
gallant little band. This occurrence took place only a
few months before I arrived in the Athaweesy, and the
other officer, with half the men, had been recalled to Surat,
after the retreat of the enemy. The Pettah is joined to the
citadel, and though extensive, is an ill-built place, but had
a good bazar, in which all kinds of grain and provisions
were selling at moderate prices. The upper fort being-
reckoned unhealthy, Lieutenant Bond resided in the cita-
del, and had a very comfortable habitation, but no society.
Our rear guard did not arrive with a part of the convoy till
noon the next day, which forced me to halt ; when, in con-
sequence of the reports of the rugged state of the Khoon-
dabaree Ghaut, arrangements were made to send half our
party with the carts round by Nunderbar, and the bullock
loads only to accompany us through that Pass. An
attack of the Athaweesy, or Surat fever, at this place,
rendered me little able to make remarks on the rest of the
march, though a naturally strong constitution providen-
tially enabled me to struggle through it.

1804.] REMINISCENCKS. 247

On the 18th of December we proceeded through a very
stony, uneven jnngle, and encamped at Annutpoor, a small
deserted village, and brick ghurry, or citadel, with two
small streams in front and rear ; the distance being eight
miles.

On the 19th, we contrived with difficulty to reach
Nowapoora, an old ghurry and village, nearly destroyed ;
and though the distance was not more than five miles,
several bandies broke down, on our journey.

December 20th. — The road, though it lay through jungle,
was good, and we got on well to the neighbourhood of
Eesurbaree, formerly a very large and populous town, with
a deep ditch, which had been destroyed by Teghee Cawn,
three years before ; the distance was twelve miles and a
half, and we passed a castle on a hill, called Aldonie, about
two miles to the right, also deserted. Here the two roads
separated, and one half of our escort went each way, as I
before mentioned.

SERAI.
On the 22nd of December we arrived at Serai, eight
miles distant, and ill as I then was, as a part of my mission
was to meet and conciliate the Bheel chief, Teghee Cawn,
in order to secure our supplies from future molestation, I
invited him to come out to my tent, which he did accor-
dingly, accompanied by his brother, Anwar Cawn, and two
nephews on horseback, with two hundred armed men,
much superior in appearance to the generality of Bheels.
We saluted one another in the eastern style ; I then pre-
sented the letter, with which I had been entrusted, ex-

248 MILITARY [A.D.

plaining my powers to treat amicably with him, and all
the Bheels. With extreme civility of language, but looks
of the deepest treachery, he acceded to every thing de-
manded, and gave me a written assurance of his peaceful
and friendly conduct for the future. Illness obliged me
to be very short with him, and I was unable to return his
visit, which would have given me a better opportunity of
judging of his way of living, the strength of his citadel, &c.
All I can now recollect of it is, that it appeared a neat,
compact, square building, with round bastions at the
angles ; and I think built of burnt brick and chunam.
I was carried off, I hardly know how, and no sooner had
the detachment ascended the Ghaut, than he plundered
some of our followers in the rear.

Without medical aid, or even any European assistance
near me, by constantly taking calomel at every lucid
interval, I managed to salivate myself in nine days, when
the fever left me at Galnah on the 27th of December, and
Colonel Wallace having returned with the head-quarters
of the Poonah subsidiary force, to that capital, I was
relieved by another officer in charge of the convoy, and
returned with a native officer's escort to Surat, as the
shortest and most expeditious route home.

BOMBAY.
Setting out on the 2nd of January 1805, I arrived at
Surat on the 10th, a distance of one hundred and sixty
miles, on horseback ; embarked with my two horses in a
battelah, or large boat, on the 12th, and reached Bombay
on the night of the 14th ; and as I have not hitherto men-

1805.] RKMINISCENCES. 249

tionecl Mr. Duncan, lor many years Governor of that
Presidency, I shall here give an account of my first intro-
duction to that gentleman. On the morning of the 15th
I went to the Government-house in the fort, to breakfast,
where I arrived early, and found myself alone in the front
veranda of a saloon, in which a table was laid out for a
large party. After a short time, an officer in an Aid-de-
camp's uniform, arrived ; we bowed to each other, without
exchanging names, and while conversing on the weather,
a middle aged man, with white silk stockings, coloured
breeches, a brown coat, and his hair powdered and dressed
in the fashion of 1780, came in, and walked directly
up to me, the Aid-de-camp calling out " Good morning.
Sir." We exchanged salutes, and entered into convers-
ation immediately, and mistaking him for a foreigner, and
the Governor's Secretary, I set to work to inform him, as
1 supposed, on Indian subjects. I was not less astonished
at his flashes of intellect, than at his excellent English ;
but never for a moment suspected I could have made any
mistake as to his identity : other people came in, and if
any of them made a particularly civil bow, I concluded he
was paying court to the Secretary. At length breakfast
was announced, and my agreeable companion, whose con-
versation I had monopolised the whole time he had been
in the room, now turned about, and told me to come and
sit by him. All eyes were fixed on us at the moment,
and I then discovered that I had been making free with
the Governor. To have apologised, would have been only
making matters worse, and JMr. Duncan was too kind a
man to shew any surprise or displeasure, but talked on

250 MILITARY [A.D.

as if nothing had happened out of the ordinary way. This
encouraged me to put forth the little I knew with con-
fidence, and I never passed a more agreeable hour than
during this repast. If some of the great men I have
known in the East, had but possessed the condescension
of this truly estimable statesman, how much real respect
would have been added to that which they claimed as a
due from every one who approached them. If I were to
live a thousand years, I never could forget the impression
made on my mind at this interview ; for Mr. Duncan was
not only a kind-hearted, liberal man, but an excellent
scholar; and to sit in his company, even for so brief a
space, was to gain a twelvemonth's knowledge. He kindly
invited me to dine with him at Parell that evening ; but
as I was to start for Panwell about his dinner time, I
excused myself, and saw him no more.

POONAH.
My horses and baggage having been removed from the
Surat boat, to one of the river rafts, in Bombay harbour, I
embarked in the evening, and arrived at Panwell early
next morning; where, after breakfasting with Captain
Mitchell, the Commandant, I mounted my horse and rode
on with little intermission all day and night, reaching my
own house in the Sungam at half-past eleven next day ; a
distance of seventy-three miles, and up a steep ghaut, in
little more than twenty-four hours. The poor horse was
certainly knocked up, and could not even strike up a
canter when we arrived in sight of home. Two days
afterwards my other horse, and two horse-keepers arrived ;

1806.] REMINISCENCES. 251

and in five days more, my servants and baggage. I
found Colonel Wallace and staff at Poonah ; and here
ends our second Mahrattah campaign, in which we gained
little honour, less profit, and many of us a fever ; the
effects of which, in my own case, lasted for nearly twelve
years.

My corps arriving at Poonah on the 15th of May, this
year, I obtained the command of it ; which I continued to
hold with my staff appointment till the end of December,
when I relinquished the latter to return with my regiment
to the Carnatic. I shall, however, not trouble the reader
by detailing any particulars of our monotonous route, but
only extract such parts of my Journal as appear likely to
prove interesting.

On the 8th of January, 1806, we arrived and encamped
near the fort of Goregerry, in the Mahrattah country, and
one hundred and ninety-six miles distant from Poonah.
This place, situated on the south bank of the Gutpurba,
was commanded by Captain Wakefield, with a company of
the 14th regiment of Native infantry ; and being only
about six miles from the celebrated falls of Gokauk, I
halted to allow all my comrades to view so uncommon
a sight.

CASCADE OF GOKAUK.
The Gutpurba, which is a very fine river, takes it's rise
among the hills, about forty miles to the northward of
Belgauni, and winding, with little interruption, in an
easterly direction, arrives at a stony spot called Cunoor,
where, passing over a rocky bed, it descends, about a mile

252 MILITARY [A.D.

further on, with a tremendous spring, over a very wide
spreading perpendicular precipice, at least two hundred
feet high. The scenery of this fall has more of the su-
blime than beautiful in it, as there is a total absence of the
luxuriant verdure and picturesque trees, with which the
Cascades of Papanassum and Courtallum, 8cc. are luxu-
riantly adorned. In the dry season one or more small
streams rush over from the middle, but when the river is
swollen by rains, it must be one foaming stream, of a
quarter of a mile in breadth. Near the head of this cataract
there are some ruins of temples, built of stone, and one
very good one, close to the edge, in which gentlemen who
go to see the fall generally put up for the day, though it
would not be advisable to sleep there. A very strong Pass
commences near the top of the cascade, and winds down
close to it, all the way to the sandy plain below ; in which the
river quietly proceeds, and is joined by the Marcundah, a
stream which has it's rise in the hills, about thirty miles to
the north-west of Belgaum, and, passing by Padshapoor,
glides between some woody hills close to the Pass,
and above the town of Gokauk. The hill-fort of Gokauk,
whence the cascade takes it's name, is situated on the
plain, three miles below it, is high, very rugged, and
woody, but from it's extreme insalubrity, has been long
abandoned. It does not appear to have ever been a strong
place ; though the town, about four miles from the Pass,
and fall, is a very fine one, full of inhabitants, and abound-
ing in all the necessaries of life ; in addition to which it is
famous all over the Dooab for it's capital grajjes, which are
sent to an immense distance.

180G.] RF.MINISCRNCF.S. 253

KOONDGULL

Is about eighty-four miles south of Goregerry, and we
arrived there on the 17th of January, and encamped in a
tope to the right of the road, opposite the fort, where we
found the greatest shew of grain and forage we had ever
seen at any place in the Mahrattah dominions. The town,
which is extensive, was also crowded with inhabitants,
horses, bullocks, and immense rude carts, employed for
transporting the corn, &c. from the neighbouring fields.
There were also three or four tanks, and many deep wells
about this place, but the water was dirty and ill-tasted.

254 MILITARY [A.D.

CHAPTER VIII.

Savanore — Hurryhur — Lake of Tinghully Tatlowe, and Ws Poisonous
Pasture — Colossal Statue at Nungi/deo — Nunjeiigoad — Daraporam
— Dindigul — Voj/age to Europe, and return to Madeira.

SAVANORE.
On the 19th of January we arrived at Savanore, twenty-
two miles further, and found two Native armies encamped
on either side of it; and no sooner was our camp pitched,
than I received the visits of several Native Chiefs, one of
whom commanding one of the encampments, requested me
to move my camp nearer to his, that he might there-
by intimidate his adversary ; at the same time offering me
ten thousand rupees, as a temptation to this baseness. His
ignorance of European feelings would not permit me to
chastise him for this insult ; but I gave him a little more
insight into the European character before we separated.

An explanation of the cause of these hostile encamp-
ments, will however, give the reader a fair idea of the
Peishwa's government. One of these contending chief-
tains, had, a few months before, paid his respects to the
noble Brahmin, head of this vast empire, and offered him a
sum of money for the government of Savanore. His offer

1806.] REMINISCENCES. 255

being accepted, the deeds were made out in his favour ;
but as no man in the Mahrattah kingdom attends to any
order by which he would be a loser, unless accompanied by
a force sufficient to insure obedience, he prepared an
army for the expulsion of his predecessor. He had arrived,
and was treating accordingly, outside of the walls, when
another chief having offered the illustrious Bajee Row a
larger bribe, received a fresh sunnud, or deed of instalment,
assembled a still larger force, and following the footsteps
of the former, had actually overtaken him at the seat of
their intended government, and encamped on the other
side. Here were three competitors for Savanore ; one in
actual possession of the capital, without the revenues, and
the other two in abeyance : the first having only a few
lukewarm adherents, who were, very probably, making their
own terms for his expulsion ; and the other two possessing
equally legal deeds of investiture, which at the time of our
arrival, they were contesting, by the mouths of old honey-
combed guns and unserviceable musquetry. The even-
ing was generally the only time of combat, when they drew
out their forces, fired a few shot, killed or wounded three
or four of their myrmidons in sight of the walls, and then
retreated, as regularly to their respective camps. In what
kind of negociations the intervening time was spent, I
know not, but the last purchaser was the man who came
to me ; and finding I was resolved to remain neutral, they
were all peaceable during the two days we remained near
them. In a small decayed Palace in the fort, resided the
Nabob, Dileer Khaun, I think was his name, the former
Sovereign of this principahty: he was a connexion of

256 MILITARY [A.D.

Tippoo Sultaun, and had, during his life, enjoyed a re-
venue of nine or ten lacs of rupees ; now a poor pensioner
of the Mahrattahs, and that pension of five thousand rupees
per annum, seldom or never paid. I waited upon him in
the evening and sent a petition from him to Colonel Close,
stating all matters as I found them. From one of his con-
fidential servants I learned that Sir Arthur Wellesley had
given him four thousand rupees, when he passed that way
a few months before, and that Mr. Strachey, acivihan, had
also assisted him ; but still his Palace was in ruins, and
himself and family in rags; fine, though they were; a
species of splendid misery, of which there is, alas ! in-
finitely too much in the East.

Being a fragment of the Mussulman power, this place
contained many ruined monuments of it's ancient grandeur,
and numerous tottering minarets record it's former fame.
There were still two or three good Mosques in it; but the
few remaining frequenters of them were miserably poor.
Having marched away, I never heard how the competitors
settled matters for the plunder of this devoted country.
Situated as the wretched inhabitants were, it must have
been a matter of little importance to them who succeeded ;
for personal aggrandizement was their only object, and
not the comfort and happiness of the people over whom
they were so ambitious to reign.

RANEE BEDNORE,
Formerly the capital of a kingdom, and situated about
thirty-four miles south of Savanore, we found to be a
ruined fort of considerable extent, but without those

1806.] REMINISCENCES, 257

beauties and advantages of situation we had been led to
expect : in lieu of which, we met with a set of tumblers and
jugglers, who exhibited feats we had never seen so well
performed, in any part of India.

On the 23rd of January we quitted the Mahrattah
country, and crossing the Toombudra river encamped near
the fort of

HURRYIIUR.
This place had been occupied by British troops, from
the time we entered the Mahrattah empire, to which it
might be considered the master key ; covering a ford on
the best high road, and thus securing our supplies. It
is situated on a peninsula, formed by the junction of two
branches of the river, which is both broad and deep,
but fordable at times just opposite the fort; of which
Captain Gibson of the 10th was in command, with a
company of that corps from Chittledroog. The fort,
though built of mud, is a strong one, and in perfect repair,
and against any native force it would be impregnable.
The walls are high, the ditch both broad and deep, and
the bastions generally large and roomy. I cannot, how-
ever, charge either Vauban or Cohorn with having given
the model, which is perfectly irregular. The town, which
is extensive, has a broad and well furnished bazar, or
market in it, and is surrounded by a thorn abbatis, and
narrow ditch ; being on the whole, considering it's situa-
tion, a place of some respectability. While marching
along the north bank before crossing the river in the morn-
ing, we saw a large flight of Saruses, or Demoiselles, on

VOL. I. S

258 MILITARY [A.D.

the southern bank. This is a rare and very wild bird, of
enormous dimensions, somewhat resembling a stork. I
have only met with them in the Mahrattah and Mysore
countries, and that very rarely. They always keep in a
flock, and, rising gradually, soar over the same spot, scream-
ing like a woman in distress, so as to be heard when out of
sight over head. The river being some hundred yards broad,
I drew up a small party, who, firing by word of command,
brought down two, out of perhaps fifty or sixty birds. The
difficulty then was to secure them, when Captain Pepper,
and a Havildar, both grenadiers, volunteered to swim over,
and strange to say, the latter would have been drowned,
but for the Captain, who supported him in the middle
of the stream ; though the natives, in general, are very
expert swimmers. The remains of my fever still hanging
constantly about me, prevented my accompanying them.
Although struck by a ball, one of the birds made it's escape;
the other which was brought away and served at dinner,
was much larger than a turkey, and very good eating it
proved. I acknowledge myself to have incurred deserved
censure for this achievement; and I should never have
forgiven myself, had any accident happened to my friend,
or his havildar : but we were all deceived as to the depth of
the river, and this was, I suppose, the last opportunity we
should have of obtaining a bird of a species, which,
though frequently alarming and disturbing our camp, with
their distressing cries, had never been shot by any person
in our army during a three years' campaign.

At this place, where the two great roads separate, we
received orders to proceed through the Mysore country, to

1806.] rf,miniscrn(;ks. '259

Pallamcottah, instead of direct to Bellary, to which place
I had been originally ordered ; and the arrangements being
completed, we set forward again on the 26th of January,
and on the 18th reached the village of Soomlapoora,
situated on the margin of the Soolikaira lake, a most exten-
sive and picturesque sheet of water, having numerous
villages all round it's banks and margin, with great variety
of verdure, from fields, trees, hills, &.C. in it's neighbourhood.
It put me in mind of Swiss scenery, till the heat of the
sun in our tents dispelled the illusion: it is twenty-eight
miles from Hurryhur, and the country round it abounds in
game of every description.

On the 29th we encamped near the fort of Chandgerry,
twelve miles further. This fort is built on a small eminence
and has a dry ditch and berme all round it ; it was then
undergoing repairs, by order of the Mysore minister, the
great Poorniah ; is a good field post, and had several guns
in it. We also remarked two strong hill-forts in a range,
a few miles to the southward, called Hunnumandrood and
Rymaundroog, both of which were dismantled.

On the 30th we reached Bookamboody, sixteen miles
onward, in one of the wildest and most romantic spots
imaginable ; indeed the whole country we passed through
in this march was equally interesting. From this place our
Mussulmans, being about half the battalion, obtained leave
to visit a celebrated Saint, living in a mountain called
Bababoodun, about forty miles off, and to join us again in
three days on the road.

The next day we made a short march, of only seven
miles, the Mussulmans having set out on their excursion,
s 2

260 MILITARY [A.D.

and encamped at Adjumpoor, a fort built of mud and stones,
with round bastions, and two round cavaliers inside ; a
fine deep and broad ditch all round, and some good low
buildings within. The Pettah was extensive, with a good
bazar in it ; and abundance of game in the vicinity.

On the 2nd of February we reached Tinghully, a distance
of sixteen miles, and encamped about half a mile from one
of the most extensive and beautiful lakes in the Peninsula,
called

TINGHULLY TALLOWE.

This beautiful sheet of water is not only very large, but
immensely deep, and full of weeds, in which were myriads
of water fowls of every description to be found in India ;
from the wild goose, rather a rare bird, to the cotton-bird
and diver. It had a long and high bank at the lower
extremity, under which is a marsh, ending in deep jungle.
The inhabitants of the village informing us that there was
a very large royal tiger in this jungle, that he had alone
killed ten men, many bullocks, &,c. ; and that his relations
were also extremely troublesome, I determined to form a
party of volunteer sportsmen, and attack him, or them, the
next morning. We accordingly, actually reached his den
by sunrise, and by great good luck, found it empty ; with
the exception of some well picked bones, &c. A panther,
whom we roused, escaped by passing right between two
parties headed by Captain Pepper and myself, so that
neither could fire at him, and we returned home unsuc-
cessful. Not so, however, a party of one hundred peons,
who had sunk a pit for the monster, and piquetted a sheep

1806.]

REMINISCI'NCKS.

2f)l

at the foot of a sharp wedge of iron, fixed in the centre, on
which, in pouncing on liis prey, he transfixed himself, and
they came and shot him in that defenceless position, bring-
ing him in triumph, carried on bamboos, with tomtoms
and collery horns, attended by all the inhabitants. A
glimpse of him was sufficient to satisfy me that it was just
as well we did not fall in with this sovereign of the eastern
woods, in his rude state ; as his dimensions, then carefully
taken, will prove to my readers. The circumference of his
head under the jowl was two feet nine inches ; the length
of his body, from head to tail, six feet four inches ; his
height, to the top of the fore shoulder, four feet ; the cir-
cumference of his body, four feet : and though I have
seen much larger tigers, I never saw one so clumsily made ;
his paw, on the stretch, actually covering a table plate.

262 MILITARY [A.D.

On the margin of the lake, between us and the water,
grew some most luxuriant and tempting-looking grass, in
which many of the natives allowed their cattle to graze ;
and our horse-keepers also permitted the grass-cutters to
give it to the horses, instead of going to a distance, and
cutting the roots of the delicate pasture, on which they are
generally fed. The consequence of which was, that in one
night, every horse in our camp was taken ill, and out of
twenty with the corps, about sixteen died ; and the Head
man of the village, instead of warning us beforehand,
very coolly told me, that one of our regiments of cavalry,
going the same route, had lost ten times as many, for the
grass was all poisonous near the tank. One word would
have saved all ; but he had not the sense, or the humanity
to utter it. I wrote a complaint against him to the Resi-
dent in Mysore, and was informed that he was disgraced
for this misconduct ; but the past was without remedy.

On the 4th of February our Mussulmans rejoined us
from Bababoodun, distant from Tinghully about twenty-
eight miles. They had seen the celebrated Saint and given
him presents : and they told me, that both Scindia and
Holkar had consulted him, and he had dissuaded them from
the war, because the time of ill fortune to the English was
not yet come : he had in short predicted success to us, till
the year then commenced, after which there would be great
changes in the East. This impostor certainly gulled them
completely, and was likely to have done us a serious in-
jury, had not Providence watched over our safety, and
proved him, like his Arabian master, a false Prophet. It
was not without much difficulty that we got off the ground,

1806.] RKMINISCENCES. 263

at this place, from the destruction of our cattle ; since
there was not a man in the corps who had not suffered ;
and our next march, of thirteen miles, to the south of Ba-
navarah, might be traced by casualties on the road.

On the morning of the 6th of February, Captain Pepper
and myself, while shooting on the flank of our line of
march, about fifteen miles from our last ground, saw some
pea-fowls in a jungle, with a small hill in the centre. I
fired and killed a cock ; but when advancing to secure it,
saw a large panther running in front of us, towards the
spot where the bird fell. The corps being at a distance,
and not prepared to dispute with such a beast, we retraced
our steps slowly and carefully out of the j ungle, and made
him a present of our game. We this day encamped at
Gundeesy, near a fine tank full of wild ducks, distant about
twenty miles.

On the 9th we arrived at Kickerre, a distance of thirty
miles, and encamped near the bank of a fine tank, full of
game. Halting the next morning, we rode to the foot of a
rocky hill, distant about eight miles ; and climbing up a
steep ascent, by steps cut or worn in the rock, were de-
lighted, on arriving at the foot of a stone wall, with two
or three different gateways, one within another, to behold
a neat Brahminy village beneath, with a very fine stone
tank enclosed in the centre, many beautiful Pagodas,
choultries, 8cc. all hewn out of the solid rock ; and a most
picturesque view of the surrounding country, studded with
hills, villages, and cultivation.

264

[A.D.

COLOSSAL STATUE AT NUNGYDEO.
Estimated as a military post only, Nungydeo must ever
rank high, from it's being almost inaccessible ; though all
wonder at the preceding sight was speedily lost in our sur-
prise, when, after ascending several neat stair-cases, we
suddenly came upon a large stone building, above which
we then first discovered a finely-formed image, carved out
of one solid stone, about seventy feet high ; and repre-
senting a young man, with wreaths of laurel winding from
his ancles to his shoulders, every leaf of which was so ex-
quisitely laboured as to bear the closest examination. We
were able to contrast the size of this extraordinary Colossus
with men, monkies, and vultures, two of the latter being

1806.] RKMINISCHNCES. 265

perched upon it's head, and the upper part being seven
times the height of a middle-sized man, who stood on the
top of the building, with the legs and thighs of the statue
below. That it was cut out of the solid rock cannot admit
of a doubt ; for no power on earth could have moved so
massive a column, to place it there on the top of a steep
and slippery mountain : so steep, indeed, that we could
not even see this statue till we had ascended close to it.
The legs and thighs are cut out in proportion to the rest, but
are attached to a large fragment of the rock behind them,
artfully covered by the building, of which it forms the
back wall. I never in my life beheld so great a curiosity ;
every feature being most admirably finished : from the
nose inclining to acquiline, and the under lip being very
prominent and pouting, the profile shews it to the greatest
advantage ; and every part from top to toe is smooth, and
highly pohshed. I could hardly conceive how the hand of
man, and that particularly of a race by no means either
intelligent or educated, could have accomplished such a
work of labour, and that too on the summit of a sterile
rock. No person on the spot seemed either to know or
care when, or how, or by whom it was made ; and though
I have given it the usual appellation, the Brahmins called
it Gometrauz and Gomethez ; and at a distance it ap-
peared to be a stone pillar. Returning from this wonder of
the East towards our own camp, we perceived a crowd of
people running towards us, who, as they came near, shouted
and looked back, beckoning and calling to others to
come on. We were amazed, but not alarmed, being well
mounted, and having clear ground over which to escape, if
necessary : when all at once two or three men ran on be-

266 MILITARY [A.D.

fore the rest, and saluting us with much humility, en-
treated us to stop a little, and the horse would arrive, on
which they wished us to cast a niggah, or look, to cure
it, as they afterwards explained, of a broken back. This
was the only favour they had to ask, and a very simple
one it was, certainly. It was, however, very difficult for us
to persuade them that we by no means possessed that
virtue. With such ideas of Europeans, and such they
were in days of yore, pretty generally, what might we not
have effected, with such simple people ! and to what noble
account might we not, as Christians, have turned such a
confidence and estimation ! But we are now too well
known to have counteracting vices ; and they can despise,
as well as respect, the European character.

SERINGAPATAM.

On the 13th of February we reached Seringapatam, a
distance of thirty-two miles, and encamped near the
Mysore gate. Here we found Major-general Hay
M'Dowall commanding the Mysore division ; the troops
in garrison, under Colonel Picton, being his Majesty's
12th regiment the 1st battahon of the 1st regiment; the
2nd battalion of the 12th ; the 2nd battalion of Artillery,
with drafts for the 2nd extra battalion ; besides five regular
battalions of the Rajah's in the Pettah, under Captain
Little, who had disciplined them entirely himself, and
which did him great credit. This place was now much
improved in appearance ; the inner wall being thrown into
it's own ditch, made the interior both healthier and more
roomy ; and many excellent European houses having been
built, where mud ruins alone were to be seen in 1803.

180().] reminis(U<;ncks. 2(37

The General being desired by the Commander-in-chief to
present new colours to our corps, while at Seringapatara,
we halted for that purpose ; and my bad state of health
induced him to defer the ceremony till the 21st of Fe-
bruary, when I received them from his hands, with a very
complimentary speech ; and we were inspected and com-
plimented again before we took our departure.

NUNJENGOAD.

On the 23rd of February we arrived and encamped on
the south bank of the Nunjengoad river, twenty-three
miles from Seringapatam. There is a fine stone bridge
across, on the northern bank of which, Major M.
Wilks, the British Resident in Mysore, had pitched his
camp, in attendance upon the young Rajah, who was
residing in a veiy neat Brahminy village, at a short distance
off, for the performance of some religious ceremonies.
Here we had not only the pleasure of being the Resident's
guests for a couple of days, for he would not part with us
sooner, but also of witnessing a Native Court in much
splendour, to which we were also kindly invited.

Having assembled on horseback in the evening, we
joined an immense cavalcade, and accompanied it to Cul-
loola, a fine village and Pagoda, about six miles off, where
a great concourse of people, whom duty or curiosity had
led to view their youthful Sovereign, were already as-
sembled. The young Rajah, placed upon the throne by
the generosity of the British Government, in May, 1799,
was now twelve years old, and as promising a boy as I ever
beheld ; indeed, IVlajor Wilks, who was a man of sense and
refinement, declared that he had never known a finer youth,

268 MILITARY [A.D.

European or Native. His manners were far above his age,
but he was then under the tutelage of the celebrated
Poomiah, a Brahmin of distinguished abilities, who, under
the title of Prime Minister, ruled both the Sovereign and
the country ; making the former respectable, and the latter
flourishing and happy. The after-life of this Prince, I am
truly sorry to state, has not fulfilled the promise of his
youth ; he has long ruled his own kingdom, and, with able
and honourable advice, which he has never wanted in
Major Wilks's successors, might have acquired a name
among his subjects, equal to that of his virtuous minister;
but he has miserably failed ; and those who now frequent
that once well-regulated country, hear nothing but com-
plaints against the Sovereign in every village.

But to return to the happier time of which we were
speaking ; during the procession, which took place on
horseback, old Poomiah checked the ardour of the Rajah,
and we moved at a snail's pace for the first three miles,
when this fine boy, longing for a gallop, obtained his
guardian's leave, exchanged his state turban for a plain
one, and disengaging himself from several valuable chains
and jewels which decorated his person, gave his horse the
whip, and commenced a lounge, which he managed with
grace and dexterity ; while we formed a ring outside, and
enjoyed the exhibition. After indulging himself for a
few minutes, in which we much admired his manliness, he
resumed his dress, and we proceeded in state to the end of
the march. On reaching the village we found a wide
street prepared for us, through which the procession passed
completely round the Pagoda ; when the whole dis-
mounted, and entered a choultry, fitted up for the oc-

180G.] REMINISCENCES. 269

casion, where we sat about an hour, in stupid dignity,
regaled by the croaking monotony of half a dozen dancing
girls, and a few of their disgusting male leaders. After
which the Rajah, Dewaun, and Resident, got into palan-
quins, and the whole returned in the same order that we
had observed in setting out, but at a much quicker pace ;
for his Highness was constantly urging his bearers to push
on, with which his tutor could not interfere, being behind ;
though he frequently sent to persuade them to a more
dignified march. The procession and ceremonies had
taken up so much time, that it was eight o'clock when we
took our leave, and adjourned to Major Wilks's tents to
dinner.

I must own that I had never felt such a predilection for
any native as for this young Rajah ; and Major Wilks's ac-
counts of the proofs he gave of good sense and honourable
feeling, made an impression on my mind which led me
afterwards to hope, when hope was vain : for on acquir-
ing the entire management, he threw himself into the
most improper hands, and disregarded the advice of his
real friends, to such a degree that some of the most im-
portant stations were filled by low and insignificant
wretches; and the whole country groaned under op-
pression. It would have been well for him, as well as for
the people over whom he ruled, had he consulted the
Honourable A. Cole, for many years the Representative of
the British Government at his court : but this, I under-
stood, he latterly entirely avoided; and our Residents there
can advise only, but no further ; at least at such courts as
Mysore. We spent the next day in the Major's camp •

270 MILITARY [A.D.

and his kind and hospitable attentions amply compensated
for the delay.

GUZZLEHUTTY.
On the 10th of March we descended the Guzzlehutty
Pass, in the mountains which separate the Mysore country
from the Carnatic. It was forty-eight miles from Nun-
jengoad, and we encamped near the foot, about seven
miles further. The country all the way to the Pass was
wild and beautiful ; but the landscape in and below it
transcended all description ; every idea of romantic and
magnificent scenery being realized in this ghaut, which is
very rugged and difficult into the bargain ; abounding with
game of all descriptions, which we were tempted to follow
in every direction. Although the Pass had been evidently
neglected, and was totally unfit for guns or wheeled carri-
ages ; yet each company of the Sepoys contrived to carry
down an entire sick cart, and were rewarded by twenty
sheep among them, with which they joyfully celebrated
their return to the Carnatic, after an absence of upwards
of three years. No men in the world are more attached to
their native soil than the East Indians : they seldom quit
it voluntarily, and always return with delight. I do not
mean that the genuine amor patria, which generally distin-
guishes the Briton from all the rest of the world, pervades or
disturbs the Asiatic bosom. It is a mere local feeling, but
still resembling the other in durability, since neither time
nor distance can eradicate it ; and in many cases no allure-
ments of fame or fortune would induce them to abandon
their native village.

1806.] REMINISCENCES. 271

Although the Carnatic was suffering generally from a
scanty monsoon, and even nature's garden, Coimbetoor,
was sharing in the direful effects, at this early season ;
still it is impossible to visit this country, without admiring
it's beauties. Like Tanjore, it is watered by several fine
streams, and the pasturage is such, that the Coimbetoor
sheep are the cheapest and best in the peninsula : whilst
above the Ghauts, we paid two and three rupees each, the
twenty I have mentioned, came to ten rupees only, or one
pound sterhng. To us, who had passed so long a period
above the mountains, the extreme difference of temperature
was more than perceptible, and the natural causes I have
mentioned, combined to increase that feeling, on descend-
ing the Guzzlehutty.

On the 5th of March, we arrived and encamped near the
village of Oonassy, twenty-five miles from the foot of the
pass ; having a good Pagoda and stone tank close to us.
At a short distance from the village, we had crossed a
small nullah, in some parts dry, where our horse-keepers
returned to water the horses, when, one of them belonging
to a native officer, was suddenly seized under water and
began to disappear. Some of the Sepoys, who were wash-
ing their clothes there, having rushed in, and pulled the
animal out, to their utter astonishment they discovered,
that their opponent was a large alligator ; when they set up
a shout, as much of amazement as of terror, and the
monster quitted his hold, and disappeared. It may
naturally be supposed, that to whatever part he had re-
treated, he was then left in the sole and undisputed pos-
session of the spot ; but the Sepoys coming to my tent and

272 MILITARY [A.D.

informing us of the occurrence, Captain Pepper and myself
sallied forth in spite of the heat, and were equally amazed,
when we found, that it was at the part where all the corps
had crossed over in the morning ; the water being about
two feet deep, but gradually increasing down to the right,
where the breadth was much less. We watched our wary
opponent for some minutes, when shewing his horrid mouth
above water, I put a ball through his head ; the distance
being so inconsiderable, that it would have been more
astonishing to miss, than to hit such an object. We after-
wards saw two or three others, but, warned by the sound
of my gun, they were too cunning to be caught on the
surface. I could not help returning grateful thanks to the
Almighty, for this providential escape of the corps, when
perfectly unaware of the smallest danger.

DARAPORAM.
On the 8th of March we reached Daraporam, the now
deserted seat of the Collector, who had removed to
Bawanny ; the distance from Oonassy being thirty miles.
Here, with permission obtained from the Aumildar, who
was a remarkably civil and obliging man, we took posses-
sion of a capital house, large enough for all the officers of
the corps, and enjoyed a couple of days under a good roof,
after being so long grilled under canvass. This house,
last inhabited by Mr. Hurdis, was still in good repair, and
consisted of nine rooms and two large verandas on one
floor, only four feet above the surface of the garden, which
was extensive, and well laid out with fruit and vegetables ;
having a rivulet running through it. There was also a

1806.] REMINISCENCES. 273

fine broad and deep river, close by, which fertihzed a tract
of country, about a mile on both sides of it's course, the
rest being parched up from the dearth already mentioned.
The town contained an excellent bazar, and many solid
granaries, though it's numerous half-built dwelling houses
gave it an appearance of a new settlement, and I fancy it
was just beginning to recover from the effects of a famine ;
for both men and cattle seemed high in bone and low in
flesh.

Ou the 11th we reached Yerecottah, a large village
about twenty-five miles distant, the residence of a Poligar
chief, who immediately paid us a visit. He was a tall, well
proportioned young man, as black as jet, but with very fine
expressive features ; and certainly by far the blackest man I
had ever beheld, of any rank, in the country. He wore no
clothing above his middle, though adorned with many rich
jewels, pendent from his neck. I had no opportunity of
learning anything of his history, but his interesting coun-
tenance is still fresh in my memory.

DINDIGUL.
Passing through the Pettah of Dindigul on the 13th
of March, we encamped in an enclosed field to the south-
ward of the hill ; the distance being twenty-two miles. The
fort, erected on a high and steep rock, with a gateway and
works running up the most accessible part, was breached
and stormed by our troops in 1791, since which time it did
not appear to have undergone any material alteration. I
was, however, too ill to visit it: the garrison which was
below, was commanded by Lieutenant-colonel Buchan,

VOL. I. T

274 MILITARY [A.D.

who lived in a garden-house, a mile outside of the town.
This place is now only an invalid station.

From Dindigiil to Madura, the distance is forty-two
miles; and having arrived there on the 16th of March, we
pitched our tents in the avenue leading to Teppoocolon,
now the residence of the Collector. Here we halted a few
days, to give our men's families an opportunity of joining
us, and spent the intermediate time with our friend Mr.
George Parish, the Collector, noted for hospitality, and
one of the most agreeable companions in the world. The
old house formerly inhabited by Captain Bannerman, had
been demolished, and a more extensive and elegant one
erected in it's room. The fort had undergone no visible
change, but it's European inhabitants were now reduced to
a commanding officer, and three other gentlemen, with
only five companies of Sepoys. Captain and Mrs. De
Morgan occupied the commanding officer's quarters,
where Major and Mrs. Gowdie resided in 1795, and the
others were strangers to us. Even our own old house
looked foreign ; so altered in appearance did every thing
seem, from the lapse of years, and an entire change of in-
habitants.

SECUNDERMALLEE.
On the 20th, we proceeded to the neighbourhood of this
hill, and encamped near a large choultry, with upper rooms
built upon it, in which our friend the Collector entertained
us all at breakfast and dinner. Hearing accounts of both
bears and tigers in the neighbourhood, we searched for
them three different times during the day, without success;

1807.] REMINISCENCES. 275

for though occasionally seen, they were much too fond
of the sure cover they possessed, to venture out for a
doubtful combat. Neither bugles, musquetry, nor even
fireworks, would induce them to quit their dens, and we
were, consequently, completely disappointed. They had
indeed the laugh entirely against us, and exposed us to
much heat and fatigue, by merely appearing out for an
instant to our scouts, and then hiding close again, before
we could reach the spot.

PALLAMCOTTAH.
The march from Madura to Pallamcottah is through a
country at all times uninteresting, being over a level cotton
plain, in which the heat and want of good water are felt
at every stage ; it is a distance of ninety-two miles, and
we accomplished it on the 27th of March, being alto-
gether eight hundred and sixty-three miles from Poonah.
Here we relieved the 16th regiment of Native infantry,
our corps occupying their ground ; and in command of the
station, I lived in the Commandant's quarters in the
fort. In July I was promoted to the rank of Major; and
towards the end of the year, an event took place, which,
although injurious to my own prospects and fortune, under
the signal blessing of Providence terminated most fortu-
nately. Time has now spread his oblivious wings over
the whole occurrence, and I will not attempt to remove
the veil.

PONDICHERRY.
The commencement of the year 1807 found us living
T 2

276 MILITARY [A.D.

with an old friend at Pondicherry, en route to Madras, the
distance being two hundred and nine-eight miles. I am
sorry to say, that the lapse of years had not contributed
to improve this once flourishing capital ; on the contrary,
aided by neglect from the parent land, it had considerably
impaired the beauty, as well as the wealth of the place.
Many capital buildings had fallen into decay ; most of the
original respectable inhabitants were removed, some to
their long homes, others to more fortunate regions ; the
few remaining population resided in houses comfortable
enough within, but certainly changed for the worse in
outward appearance ; and in spite of that natural outward
gaiete de caiir, so well calculated to conceal poverty, I
could not help noticing a sensible decline since my first
visit to the French metropolis of India. There seemed,
indeed, but little left to afford real gratification to the
sober or reflecting mind ; and with the exception of a few
families, the society was not such as to improve the morals
or manners of the young men of our army, who frequented
the place. Wherever a laxity of morals prevails, there
the idle and unthinking will naturally resort ; and to them,
midnight revels afford the happiest mode of killing the
public enemy, old Time. To my shame, I observed several
young Englishmen of this description, dressed out in the
extreme of French foppery, patrolling the streets in com-
pany with French women, or riding with them on horse-
back ; and had they not retained enough of our military
costume, to prove them officers of our army, I should have
humoured their taste, and mistaken them for so many
petits mcutres. This was, no doubt, what they aimed at ;

1807.] REMINISCENCES. 277

whilst, on the contrary, the sober and sedate Frenchman,
observing, with a sigh, the vast superiority of the genuine
English character, notwithstanding all it's bluntness
and imperfections, as regards mere outward appearances*
endeavours to conform himself thereto, in every tiling
essential.

After residing a few days at Pondicherry, I proceeded
to our own Presidency; arrived there on the 8th of
January, and remained in very bad health until the 5th
of March,* when I embarked on board the Dover Castle
Indiaman, in the Roads, bound to Bengal. Here we re-
mained some days, to take in stores and French prisoners ;
and at last, receiving a company of his Majesty's 94th
regiment, under Captain Anderson, and three hundred
and fifty prisoners, we sailed on the 16th, in company
with the Rattlesnake, sloop of war, and Indus, extra India-
man ; made the Pilot in four days, and on the 21st of
April were nearly lost on the Mizen Sands, in the Hooghly
river, where we escaped almost by miracle.

The ship having grounded at high water, a rapid stream
running out at the rate of seven miles an hour, had left
us quite fixed in a bed of sand ; when, six hours after, the
spring tide, called the Bore, came thundering up, and
threw us on our starboard side, all the lower yards touch-
ino- the water ; when, at this critical moment, the ship

* While suffering under a severe and aggravated return of Surat
fever at the Presidency, 1 was most unremittingly and kindly attended
by Mr. John Underwood, an old surgeon on the establishment ; whose
truly humane and able exertions so far subdued tlie disease, as to en-
able me to proceed to sea fur the reco\ery of my health.

278 MILITARY [A.D.

drifted off the bank, and suddenly righted, by which a
young officer of the 94th was very nearly lost, for he
chmbed out of the cuddy port when she rolled over, and
had not time to get back again. The poor French pri-
soners suffered most, there being twenty-nine officers and
three hundred and twenty-one sailors shut up in the hold,
in the hottest month in the year. Captain Richardson
had received them all as privates, and was desired to make
no distinction in their treatment. However, I soon dis-
covered what I have mentioned ; and by meeting them at
the gun-room grating, was enabled to give them some
small consolation, and assist them with books, musical
instruments, &c., in all which the Captain readily acqui-
esced. I found them men of education ; and, in the course
of conversation with them, ascertained the fact I have
stated. Indeed the very first act of separating themselves
entirely from the rest, was a strong proof in their favour,
since they never left that corner, to mix with the men ; nor
did any of the men presume to come among them while I
was there. Having furnished them with paper, they wrote
a statement of their case to the Supreme Government,
which I enclosed to the Chief Secretary, with my own con-
viction of it's correctness, and had the gratification to learn
that they were admitted on their parole, and allowed to go
to reside at Chandernagore. We reached Calcutta on the
25th of April, where the ship arrived some days after, and
was put into dock.

CALCUTTA.
After remaining the guest of Mr. William Fairlic, the

1808.] RKMLNISCKNCKS. 27U

prince of Indian merchants, from that time till the Kith (jf
June, I then embarked on sick certificate for England ; and
it has been my fate to survive this noble friend, as well as
most of those to whom I was bound by ties of gratitude or
private intimacy in the East. I have, on every occasion,
endeavoured as much as possible to leave self out of my
extracts, and shall, therefore add only, that attended by
the kind, able, and humane Doctor Hare, I had a most
severe struggle with the grim tyrant; and nothing but
the more than parental kindness of one of the noblest and
most amiable of men, and his family, with the skill of my
medical adviser, could have enabled me thus to conquer
for a time the King of Terrors. Still it was deemed abso-
lutely necessary for me to quit the country immediately,
and we accordingly embarked on the 16th of June;
touched at Madras ; missed the island of St. Helena, and
reached England in the end of November; where, having
remained until the following summer, I re-embarked, with
renovated health and strength, on board the Earl Spencer,
extra Indiaman, Captain George Heming, on the 10th of
June, 1808, in a fleet under convoy of his Majesty's ship
C/iifuttne, and on the 2()th of the same month made the
island of

MADEIRA,
A speck upon the ocean, yet the birth-place of the best wine
that the world produces. Having introductions from kind
friends in England to Mr. Page, a most opulent English wine
merchant, residing at Funchall, we met with the utmost at-
tention and kindness from this gentleman and his family,

280 MILITARY [A.D.

and became their guests during our stay. The town of
Funchall is as dirty and disgusting, on a near approach,
as it is beautiful and inviting from the offing. The
streets are narrow, dirty, and very ill-paved ; the houses
shabby, and crowded together, without taste or order ;
and the inhabitants a most uncouth and motley crew,
partaking in outward appearance, of every nation, but
really inferior to most, if not all. Their language is much
superior to the jargon called Portuguese in India ; but
their manners and habits seem little to surpass their brown
countrymen in the East. There are several genteel English
famihes established here ; and the contrast between their
palaces and the filthy buildings which surround them, is
not more remarkable, than between themselves and the
people amongst whom they have taken up their abode.
This town, which is entirely irregular, is situated on the
sea-shore, and defended by an old wall, with three or four
batteries, and one good work upon a rock, which is sepa-
rated from the beach by very deep water, and commands
the whole anchorage ; still I am of opinion, that five or six
line-of-battle ships would lay the whole town in ruins in
a few hours, in spite of the batteries ; and an army might
land on the other side of the island, and capture it, with-
out being exposed to any serious opposition, so far as I
have seen. After bestowing on the town that abuse it so
richly merits, I proceed, with pleasure, to take a view of
the interior of this fertile island ; as it is there only, that we
can duly appreciate it's value. Passing through a long
and narrow lane, paved with small sharp stones, set in
endways, you gradually ascend the mountains. The first

1808.] RKMINISCKNCES. 281

seat which attracted our attention, was that occupied by
General Berestbrd, the English Commander-in-chief, to
whom we paid our respects, and were very kindly received ;
it is situated on an elevation, a short distance from the
skirts of the town ; has a good garden, and commands an
extensive view of the harbour and shipping, with a bound-
less ocean in the distance. The next seat of consequence
was that belonging to the Portuguese Governor, Don
Pedro Fagundez Barcelar D'Antes E. Menches, which is
within three or four hundred yards of the former, and was
then let to a Portuguese family. Not having been within
this house or grounds, I cannot tell how far they merit
the praise generally bestowed upon them ; but passing on
about two miles further to Quinto do Prazeer, the seat of
Mr. Page, we were truly gratified. It is one of the most
enchanting spots 1 ever beheld ; indeed, surpassing any
thing I had ever seen in Europe, and rivalling those I so
much admired at Papanassum and Courtallum.

The house is in the middle of the grounds, surrounded
on all but the town side, which is left open, by the most
luxuriant trees and shrubs. It was not so magnificent a
building as the town house, but very neatly fitted up, and
containing every requisite for the accommodation of a
family. The grounds were laid out with much taste, with
capital roads winding up and down the acclivity, entirely
sheltered by the foliage of enormous chesnut and other
forest trees ; excepting one walk, which was shaded by
orange trees, covered with ripe fruit. The gardens con-
tained citron, lemon, peach, apricot, plum, apple, damson.

822 MILITARY [A.D.

cherry, fig, walnut, and mulberry trees ; with every Euro-
pean flower and vegetable. There were also plantains,
dates, and some few other Asiatic fruits. Mr. Page's
grounds cover upwards of thirty acres, the whole of which
he purchased some years before, for fifteen thousand
Spanish dollars ; and there are several springs of fine
water, and different reservoirs, so formed as to add to the
coolness of the shade, which is most refreshing in a climate
partaking much of the heat of India. Proceeding upwards
a few hundred yards, we came to the celebrated Church
of Nostra Senora de Monte, a large and well-finished
edifice, visible for many miles at sea, and commanding a
most extensive view. The interior is decorated in a very
superior manner, and the large paintings with which the
walls are covered, bespeak the hand of a first-rate artist ;
particularly the representation of our Saviour's birth ; the
Shepherds and Wise Men visiting the Blessed Babe ;
his reputed Father warned of God in a dream ; the Flight
with the young Child and his Mother to Egypt ; and the
first instance he gave of his divine mission, sitting among
the Doctors in the Temple : all of which are equally well
designed and executed. The Vicar, a sensible and tolerably
well-informed man, politely invited us into his house, and
offered us fruit and wine. It was a neat and airy mansion,
and, considering all matters, extremely well furnished.

The conveyances of this island are of three kinds ; viz.,
horses, mules, and a litter, ycleped a palanquin, being a
chair in the shape of a bathing-tub, with a pole across,
carried by two men, as doolies are in the East. The

1808.] RKMINISCENCLS. 283

horses and mules, though by no means good looking
animals, are remarkably serviceable and sure footed ; gal-
lopping up and down hill, and over precipices, in a manner
truly alarming to persons unaccustomed to such feats ;
as 1 experienced one day, in a visit to the English camp,
to such a degree, that I was unable to make any remarks
on that part of the country.

The interior and opposite side of the island, are highly
cultivated ; and there are many other delightful seats and
gardens, such as I have endeavoured to describe near Fun-
chall. For supplies of grain, they rely upon the Mediter-
ranean, the Western Isles, and America ; the produce of the
country being perfectly inadequate to the consumption of
the present inhabitants, who exceed sixty-eight thousand,
including one thousand five hundred on the small depend-
ent island of Santa Cruz. Their staple commodity of
trade is, of course, wine, which is produced by a very
simple process, from dwarf vines, of which the principal
cultivation consists, and which are spread all over the
fields, as grain is in other countries. The wine for the
Indian market is of three different qualities, varying at the
time we were there, from thirty to forty-five pounds per
pipe : but the finest wine on the island was then little
known in India. The Sercial, which was reckoned from
sixty to seventy pounds per pipe, was certainly the most
dehcious I had ever tasted ; and it's value is, I believe,
always in the proportion of two-thirds more than the best
Madeira. The wine is transported from place to place, on
sledges, resembling a butcher's tray, drawn by oxen, and

284 MILITARY [A.D.

the cattle are very fine ; some bulls costing one hundred
and fifty dollars each. Those which are the natural
produce of the island, are diminutive, though well formed ;
the strongest and most valuable being brought from the
Western Islands. But to return to Funchall, the capital.
There are three Monasteries in the town ; that of Santa
Clara being the most respectable. Several of the old nuns
have long whiskers, and resemble witches or hags, more
than religious females, and these disgusting animals were
extremely lavish of their withered embraces ; bestowing
their kisses indiscriminately on all visitors, nolens volens,
whom they could lay hands upon. They are very haughty
and overbearing at first, and must be courted with much
humility, before they will consent to open the door of the
convent, but once satisfied, they meet the visitor on the
threshold, and are famous for selling preserves and artificial
flowers. There is another place of religious seclusion for
women, called the Convent of Bon Jususe, where any lady
wishing to retire for a season, may take possession of a cell,
and stay as long as she finds it convenient, without being
subject to take the veil, but having once left it she is not
permitted to return.

The Cathedral and several other Churches, are very
richly ornamented, but a description of one serves for all.
There is a remarkable cell in a corner of the Friars' convent,
called Capella D'as Almas, the walls of which are lined
with human skulls and bones, in regular order, and is a
a place of penance. The climate of Madeira is reckoned
very healthy : I think that of the mountains delightful ;

1808.] JiKMlNISCFNCES. 285

and it appears to be a very good medium between the
English and Asiatic; if we except Funcliall, whicli being
very low, and screened from the wind by the neighbouring
mountains, must be at least from ten to twenty degrees
hotter in the day-time, than the shady spots above.

•286 ' MILITARY [A.D.

CHAPTER IX.

Return to India — Capture of the Ararnhooly Lines — General Orders —
Nagracoile — Oodagherry — Trevanderam — Petrifactions at Trevy-
cary — VcBteevallum — • Trinomally — Ryacottuh — Oosoor — Nundy-
droog — Bangalore.

After being detained a fortnight filling wine, and the
Chifonne having left us at Madeira, on the 18th of July
we set sail, in company with four extra Indiamen, with
abundance of fruit and vegetables, and met with nothing
extraordinary, till we parted with the Carmarthen and Eldon
for Bombay, on the 26th of September.

On the 7th of November the Tracers ran upon a rock
near Drowneh island, off Negrais Point, on the Burmese
shore, and was totally lost, with sixteen poor men on
board; while we picked up one hundred and twenty-two
persons in three boats, and carried them all in our ship to
Calcutta. There were several faults, of course, to be found,
as in all such misfortunes, and the Madras passengers
naturally blamed the Commodore, for not attempting to
land us at Madras, to which place we had taken our
passage, and not to Bengal; since we had run through the
likely track of French privateers, and had actually reached

1809.] REMINISCENCES. 287

the opposite side of the bay, three degrees above Madras,
before the monsoon set in, that morning. Our kind-hearted
and excellent Captain would not have hesitated, and would
most likely have landed us all at Madras, from the 1st to
the 10th of October.

Arriving at Calcutta on the 19th of November, we
again received the utmost kindness from the worthy Mr.
Fairlie, whom we then saw for the last time in this world.
A fleet sailing from Saughur Roads on the 23d Decem-
ber, we embarked on board the William Pitt Indiaman ;
and after touching at Ganjam, Vizagapatam, Coringa, &c.
for Company's homeward cargo, reached Madras on the
12th of January 1809 ; when learning that my corps was
about to take the field against Travancore, 1 proceeded to
join my comrades with all possible expedition.

On the 19th of January, I set out from Madras, and
reached the Honourable Colonel St. Leger's camp, near the
Arambooly lines of Travancore, on the 5th of February,
being a distance of four hundred and twenty miles. The
force was composed as follows : —

His Majesty's 69th regiment, under Lieutenant-colonel
W. M'Leod.

Five companies of the 1st battalion of the 3rd regiment,

— Captain Pepper.

2nd battalion of the 3rd regiment.
1st battahon of the 13th regiment,— Major Lang.
Five companies of the 2nd battalion of the 10th regi-
ment, — Captain Bowen.

One company of the 2nd battalion of the 13th regiment,

— Lieutenant Stewart.

288

MILITARY

[A.D.

6th regiment of Native cavalry, — Major Nuthall.

Artillery and field-pieces, — Captain Franke.

And four hundred Pioneers, — Captain Smithwaite.

On the 6th of February we marched six miles, and took
up a position within five miles of the works ; when, being
detached in advance that very evening, with the 2nd bat-
talion of the 3rd regiment, I was enabled to make the
followino; sketch of the whole.

ARAMBOOLY.
The southern fortified lines of Travancore, commencing
among rugged hills on the sea-coast, near Cape Comorin,
were carried on, joining such hills as came in the way, as
far as the mountainous range, which separates the eastern
from the western coast; these fortifications completing
the boundary of that country. They were divided into
two separate parts by a high mountain, those next the sea

1809.] REMINISCKNCFS. 2HV

being called the " Southern Lines," and those carried be-
yond that mountain, to the ghauts, the '' Aianibooly
Lines." It was against the latter that our operations were
intended, because the high-road from Pallamcottah passed
through the centre of them, by a gate covered with two
large circular bastions, and defended by several pieces of
ordnance. The extent of the whole might be about two
miles, embracing a rugged hill to the southward, com-
pletely fortified, and a very strong rock, about half-way,
called the Northern redoubt, beyond which, to the range
of mountains, it was nearly inaccessible in deep jungle.
The works consisted of small well-built bastions for two
and three guns, joined at different intervals by strong and
neat curtains, the whole cannon proof, and covered by a
thick thorny hedge, the approach to which was rather
difficult, from the wild state of the country, within cannon
range of the walls.

Having no battering guns with the force, and the
nearest depot being Trichinopoly, two hundred miles off,
it appeared desirable to take these lines by a coup-de
ma'ui, which I proposed to Colonel St. Leger on the 8th of
February ; and on the 9th, having satisfied himself that it
was feasible, he consented, though not without much re-
luctance, and considerable reservation. On the morning of
the 10th we succeeded ; and having escaladed the southern
fortified hill during the night, though defended by fifty
pieces of cannon and ten thousand men, the whole lines
were in our possession by eight o'clock, A.INL

Our loss on this occasion was small beyond calculatiou.
Captain Cunningham, of the 69th regiment, killed ; one

VOL. 1. L

290 MILITARY [A.D.

Sepoy killed ; one Serjeant and three privates wounded ;
and one Subadar and six Sepoys wounded. Thus we ob-
tained possession of all the enemy's guns, and immense
quantities of arms and stores.* The army encamped in-

* The following is a copy of the General Orders issued in consequence
of this capture : —

" Camp, two miles interior of Arambooly Gate,
February 10th, 1809.
" Parole, Welsh. Countersign, Success.

" Lieutenant-colonel the Honourable A. St. Leger has much satisfac-
tion in conveying to the troops under his command, the most sincere
congratulations on the brilliant achievement of this morning. The
Lieutenant-colonel deems it a duty he owes to justice, thus publicly to
mark the high consideration he entertains of the perseverance, judgment
and ability displayed by Major Welsh, commanding the 3rd regiment of
Native infantry, in the assault of this morning, wherein the greatness of
the enterprise could only be equalled by the success which attended it.
The Lieutenant-colonel requests Major Welsh will convey to the officers
and men who composed the detachment for escalade, under his com-
mand, the most unqualified approbation of their gallant exertions in
accomplishing an object which must ever be considered as entitled to
a high place in military records."

Copy of Colonel St.Leger-^s letter to the Chief Secretary to Government,
dated February Wth, 1809 : —
" Sir,
" I had the honour this morning to convey to you, by express, a
small note in pencil, for the information of the Honourable the Governor
in Council, by which you were made acquainted with the satisfactory
intelligence of the British flag being flying on every quarter of the
Arambooly lines, as well as the commanding redoubts to the north and
south. It is impossible for me to describe, in language sufficiently
strong, the obligations I feel under to the personal exertions of Major
Welsh, commanding the 3rd regiment of Native infantry, and the
detachment for assault under his command. The southern redoubt,
which presented a complete enfilade of the whole of the main lines as
far as the gate, was the object of Major Welsh's enterprise; an under-
taking which, from the natural strength of the approach, appeared to

1809.] REMINISCENCES, 291

side the walls that day, and the Pioneers, &.c. were em-
ployed destroying the works on both sides the gate, which
was however left entire, as a post to secure our commu-
nications. I was nominated a Prize-aoent on this occa-

be only practicable to the exertions and determined bravery of British
troops, led on to glory by Major Welsh. It was ascended under cover
of the night, and our troops had actually escaladed the wall ere their
approach was suspected ; and the ascent was of such great difficulty, as
to require six hours' actual scrambling, so as to reach the foot of the
walls.

" In consideration of the brilliancy of this achievement, I feel a
pleasurable duty in detailing, for the information of the Honourable
Governor in Council, the names of those officers who accompanied the
detachment for escalade, which consisted of two companies, and the
picquet of His Majesty's 69th regiment, commanded by Captain Syms ;
the four flank companies and five battalion companies of the 3rd regiment,
under Captain Lucas : and it did not require that confirmation which
Major Welsh has conveyed, in the most handsome manner, to convince
me, that to have accomplished such an object, every man must have done
his duty. In the list of gallant fellows which accompanies this despatch,
I have to lament the fate of Captain Cunningham, whose wound I fear
is mortal, which deprives his country of a brave and valuable officer.
When Major Welsh had once effected his security in this commanding
position, I despatched to his assistance, by the same arduous route, a
company of His Majesty's 69th, and three companies of the 1st and
2nd battalions of the 13th regiment, under Captain Hodgson, to rein-
force and add confidence to his party. As soon as this addition was
perceived, a detachment from his party stormed the main lines, and,
by dint of persevering bravery, carried them entirely ; when the northern
redoubt was abandoned by the panic-struck enemy, who fled in
all possible confusion in every direction, leaving me in possession of
their strongest lines ; and I am now encamped in a convenient position,
two miles interior of the Arambooly gate. I am also in possession of
the arsenal, which appears well filled with arms, ammunition, and many
stores, with a quantity of valuable ordnance in the works, which has
not yet been ascertained."

V -2

292 MILITARY [A.D.

sion ; but the appointment was afterwards annulled by
Government ; and while on this ground, Lieutenant-
colonel Morrice, with a CafFre regiment and some Royal
artillery, joined us from Ceylon.

NAGRACOILE.
On the 17th of February the army marched for the
interior ; the advance, commanded by Lieutenant-colonel
M'Leod, consisted of the flanking companies of the 69th
regiment, three hundred and fifty CafFres, under Colonel
Morrice, and six native flank companies, and the cavalry
under Major Nuthall, with six guns, worked by the royal
artillery. This party moved off from the right of the line
at three o'clock, A. M., the line following at half-past four,
and thus leaving a distance of three miles between them.
Having got on six miles by day -break, they found the
enemy strongly posted in a village, across a river with
high banks, commanding the approach, and several cannon
pointed down the high road. Their force was supposed
to amount to six hundred men, and they had every ad-
vantage in point of position, that men could desire.
Colonel M'Leod immediately formed his line for the attack,
and drove the enemy from their guns, after a very heavy
fire of both cannon and musquetry ; which unfortunately
did considerable execution, from the exposed situation of
our troops in advancing. The enemy were completely
routed, and dispersed in all directions for some miles : the
country was said to be too difficult for the cavalry to follow
them, which doubtless saved many, if not the whole from
total destruction. Lieutenant Charles Johnstone, however.

1809.] RKMINISCKNCES. '293

with a small party of our horse, contrived to get in amongst
them, and did some execution. Nine capital guns, and
several dead bodies were the fruits of this victory ; in ad-
dition to which we gained possession of two very fine
villages, called Cotaur and Nagracoile. Our loss was
Captain Lenn of tlie CafFres, and Lieutenant Swayne of
the 13th Native infantry, wounded, and forty-nine rank
and file killed and wounded. After this brilliant affair,
which did infinite credit to Colonel M'Leod and the brave
fellows under his command, the army encamped, four miles
beyond the village of Nagracoile.

Although, generally speaking, the enemy had proved far
below our expectations, yet there were some exceptions.
On the 10th, a Native officer in the lines, after being fired
at by a soldier of the 69th, cut him down, and was killed
by another soldier ; a few others also stood on both days,
and refusing to surrender, were put to death on the spot.
These instances deserve to be recorded, because they were
rare ; for, taking them all in all, I never beheld a more
dastardly crew ; nor did they deserve the name of soldiers,
although neatly clothed in military uniforms, furnished
with capital arms, and in a country, every inch of which
might have been defended. And here I must do a man of
my own corps the justice to record, that he behaved in so
conspicuous a manner on the 10th, that I promoted him at
once, from a Sepoy to a Havildar, or Serjeant, and the ap-
pointment was confirmed by my superiors. He was a
Rajahpoot, named Hurry Syng, an uncommonly handsome
lad, and a good marksman. While a body of the enemy
was at a stand, he took aim at a distinguished character

294 MILITARY [A.D

among them, and bringing him down, ran on, shouting,
to secure his prize, without waiting to see whether he was
supported or not ; the enemy were driven off, and he very
coolly claimed his man amongst the dead bodies.

OODAGHERRY.
On the 19th of February, T had the honour to lead the
advance, consisting of the picquets, and some flank com-
panies, with two six-pounders, expecting hard work,
though the line was not very distant in our rear. After
proceeding three or four miles, we met some peaceable
villagers, who informed us, that the two forts of Ooda-
gherry and Palpanaveram in our front, had been aban-
doned by the enemy, which was the first time we had
heard of such fortifications, though we had been expecting
to find some field-works to be taken. The news soon
spread, and ere we had advanced much further, we could
distinguish white flags flying on trees and sticks, when
the whole head-quarter gentlemen passed us, preceded by
some troops to explore the way. Shortly afterwards the
road led us on a sudden, within musquet-shot of a stone
bastion and curtain, mounting several cannon pointed on
the road, and we found this to be part of the Fort of
Oodagherry, with white flags flying, and not a soul within.
I was directed to take possession of both forts with my
own corps ; and Palpanaveram being the largest, a mile
further on, I left two companies in Oodagherry, and pro-
ceeding thither, disposed of the corps in an open space in
the centre, posting Hindoo guards in all the Pagodas,
and the officers taking possession of a large and very well

1809.] REMINISCENCES. 295

built Palace belonging to the Rajah. Here we found many
valuable swords, dirks, pistols, guns, spears, rich muslins,
kincobs, &c. as well as thousands of jewel boxes, broken
open and pillaged by the flying enemy, to give us some
idea of what we had lost. Several of the swords proved to
be gold-hilted, and the blades were of the first water. Of
course all we could lay hands on were secured as prize
property, and afterwards sold by public outcry.

Whilst we thus were advancing from the southward, the
subsidiary force at Quilon was by no means idle. Shut
up in the heart of a strong country, with the inhabitants
all in arms against them, they had several severe actions,
but invariably came off" conquerors. Nevertheless, their
situation was daily becoming more critical, until the news
of our entering the lines reached the masses by which they
were surrounded, when giving up every hope of further
success, they dispersed and fled in all directions ; for those
lines, ill as they were calculated to resist an English force,
had been hitherto deemed impregnable ; and Tippoo, in
the zenith of his power, had been repulsed from them with
great loss.

Remaining atPalpanaveram,to collect prize property, we
succeeded at last in breaking open the treasury, and found
all the cash chests open, with one solitary rupee on the
floor, and two small jewels, evidently left on purpose for
our annoyance. We had ah-eady captured sixteen elephants
and about fifty thousand stand of arras, with some hundred
guns ; but the greatest curiosities were a gun and mortar,
both of exquisite workmanship, mounted on the parade, in
Oodagherry, and cast in the place, by some European

296 MILITARY [A.D.

artist. They were made of brass, the gun sixteen feet
long, and bored as a twenty-two pounder, was so extremely
massive, that twelve hundred men, assisted by sixteen
elephants, could not move it, even for a few yards, when
we had an intention of selling it to Captain Foote, of His
Majesty's ship Piedmontaise, who offered us two thousand
pounds sterling for it. The mortar was equally heavy, and,
I think, had an eigh teen-inch bore. They have since
been removed, for I lately found only the old gun carriage
in that place.

Palpanaveram is a Brahmin town, at least five miles in
circumference, and is held very sacred by the natives. It
has a high wall, with small bastions all round it, and eight
distinct gates. The streets are neatly laid out, and the
houses generally much superior to most of the native habi-
tations in India ; it is surrounded with cultivation.

Oodagherry is a large irregular fort, nearly three miles
in circumference, with a tolerable sized hill in the centre,
capable of being very strongly fortified ; but this had been
neglected, and there were only two guns on the summit,
without works, when it fell into our hands. It had httle
to recommend it as a fort, having long curtains and few
bastions, which did not even defend each other's flanks or
faces, and no ditch ; yet an immense sum must have been
expended on it.

While we were in this neighbourhood, Colonel St. Leger
received a letter from the Ram Rajah, by a hircarrah,
which he answered by the bearer, accompanied by four
troopers, intimating that the first proofs of the Rajah's
sincerity would be his allowing two of the troopers to pass

1809. J KKMINISCENCES. 297

on to Colonel Chalmers' camp, at Quilon, and returning
unmolested, with an answer. This was actually permitted,
and the Rajah received them very graciously at Trevande-
ram, his capital, and gave them a shawl and sixty rupees
each. They came back to our camp with letters from the
Rajah, Colonel Macaulay, the Resident, and Colonel
Chalmers ; in consequence of which, an armistice was pro-
claimed in our force on the 26th of February.

On the 27th of February we did little more than break
ground ; on the 28th we commenced our march for the
capital, the troops moving by the right and the baggage
on the left, with orders, in case of an attack, as the Rajah
had disowned his minister's acts, that each corps should
countermarch on it's own ground, a thing totally impossible
in such a country as we had to pass through. My reason
for inserting this strange march is, that it was something
out of the ordinary course of modern tactics ; and as we
had no enemy to oppose, it served to amuse and beguile
the tedious hours. Several of our guns and limbers were
upset on the road, and a cavalry one falling on two
troopers, horses and all rolling over, they were seriously in-
jured : but at length we encamped upon high and very
uneven ground, covered with bushes, in the most perfect
disorder imaginable.

On the 2nd of March we reached the neighbourhood of
the capital, and encamped, as well as we could in so intri-
cate a country, near a fine deep river, with a good bridge
across, about three miles to the southward of the town.

298 MILITARY [A.D.

TREVANDERAM,

The capital of Travancore, and residence of the Rajah, is
a large irregular town, without much external shew of
riches. There are some good houses in it, and the country
round is picturesque and beautiful. The Rajah's palace is
situated near the centre, and surrounded by a miserable
attempt at fortification; but the interior is roomy, and
contains not only the Palace, but many public buildings
belonging to the Prince, such as an armoury, stabling for a
large stud, a menagerie, full of wild beasts, temples of wor-
ship, barracks, &,c. His Highness being somewhat in the
back ground, we did not visit him ; but after we had been
two days there, and his entire innocence of any participation
with his rebellious Minister and subjects proclaimed, he
delivered a man of some consequence into our hands, as a
hostage for the Prime Minister. His troops and subjects
were quietly disarmed, and parties were detached in pursuit
of the rebel Dewaun, the Dalawai, and General of his
cavalry.

On the 3rd of March, Colonel Macaulay, the Resident,
arrived in our camp, and was saluted with seventeen guns.
He had been living on board the Piedmontaise frigate,
with Captain Foote, who accompanied him on shore, his
vessel being at anchor on the coast, about five miles off.
The Colonel, residing at Cochin when the rebellion broke
out, had a very narrow escape for his life, and was pre-
served only by the fidelity of a Portuguese servant ; but
the Piedmontaise arriving there shortly afterwards, he was
rescued from impending danger, and embarked on board,
the enemy retreating on her approach.

1809.] REMINISCENCES. 299

March the 15th, the new Dewaun paid a formal visit to
our camp, where he was received with military honours
and a salute of fifteen guns, and publicly proclaimed the
accredited Minister. All the Native officers of His High-
ness's late Carnatic brigade being brought into the camp
prisoners, and disgraced by the drummers of the line, who
cut their jackets off their backs, and then turned them out,
with the " Rogues' March." A few days afterwards it was
discovered that the quiet Ram Rajah had got an arsenal
within his Palace walls, containing one hundred and forty
pieces of serviceable cannon, fourteen thousand stand of
musquets and bayonets, and ammunition of every descrip-
tion in the greatest abundance ; all of which he was
obliged to deliver up ; and our force returned by corps to
Oodagherry, to be cantoned there, the last arriving on the
8th of April.

The late Dewaun was speedily traced into the interior
of a Pagoda, with brazen doors, and while our party was
forcing them open, he killed himself; when his brother,
with six friends, who were taken alive, were carried to
Quilon and hanged, in terrorem; and thus terminated the
Travancore war, designated a rebellion.

THE CARNATIC.
Having obtained leave of absence to return to Pon-
dicherry, where I had left ray family, on the way from
Madras, I arrived at Pallamcottah on the 10th of April,
and setting out post, was bit by a tarantula at Kytaur,
where I stopped to change horses. The effect was such
in a few hours, that about twenty miles from Madura I fell

300 MLLITARY [A.D.

off my horse, and was carried on by the kindness of the
Collector's public servants, to Teppoocolon, where our
kind old friend Mr. Parish immediately called in medical
assistance. I have mentioned this circumstance, because it
was out of the common routine of accidents; I had pre-
viously experienced the stings of scorpions, and bites of
centipedes, one of the latter, while sleeping on board the
Fiedmontaise, a few nights before, being eight inches long,
without much inconvenience : but this reptile stung me on
the same spot, both going and coming, and I was suffering
tortures from the first bite, when I joined the force on the
5th of February ; one of the advantages of posting on
horseback, without servants or baggage. I must, however,
acknowledge, that I did not see the creature either time.
I was reclining on a little straw, under the only tree left at
Kytaur, while a fresh horse was saddling for me, on both
occasions ; but the natives described it to be an enormous
spider, which bites and even kills cattle, and I have actu-
ally seen tarantulas in that neighbourhood. It certainly
did not put me, as is usually reported, into dancing trim,
but was each time followed by excruciating pain, and a
burning fever.

On the 24th of April I reached Pondicherry, a distance
of three hundred and ninety miles ; and my corps being
ordered to Nundydroog in the Mysore country, we left
Pondicherry on the 9th of June, and, proceeding seventeen
miles on the road, encamped at

TREVYCARY.
Of all the curiosities 1 have witnessed in the East, the

1809.] RP-MINISCRNCFS. 301

petrifactions in the vicinity of this insignificant village, are
the most interesting and extraordinary. There being no
shelter for Europeans in it's neighbourhood, it is necessary
to pitch tents near a small Pagoda, on ground somewhat
above the level of the plain. This building is evidently of
great antiquity, though it possesses no beauty or attraction
at present ; but close to it are several rude rocky hillocks,
which on a near approach, prove to be of a circular form,
and hollow in the centre, resembling the craters of volcanoes.
These craters were all more or less choked up with weeds
and bushes, so that we could not penetrate to the bottom,
though they did not appear to be of any great depth ; but
still, considering them in that liglit, our wonder was the
greater, to find the surface covered with large fragments of
petrified wood, instead of coals and lava. On a nearer
examination, the soil of these cavities proved to be a
whitish loose sand ; and that of the exterior surface, a
compound of sand and clay, completely transformed to
stone ; extremely porous, and perforated in a thousand
places, like rocks under water, in a stream, with enormous
masses of trees of various forms and descriptions, some of
which were actually buried in them, and others scattered
about, as if they had been thrown down by some sudden
eruption of nature, and broken by the fall. When these
rarities were first discovered, or by whom, I have no idea ;
and it was only on our return from Poonah that I first
heard at Madras, of " the petrified tamarind wood," as it
was always designated. Masses being cut out, into various
ornaments, and highly polished, very much resembled
Scotch pebbles, and were then much in fashion, as a

302 MILITARY [A.D.

novelty. Yet this very name, given indiscriminately to all
these stones, however varied in shape or colour, proved to
my mind, that the spot from whence they were taken had
never been visited by any European, or person capable of
examining and distinguishing the original petrifactions, for
I found them so perfectly different, and some so nearly
entire, as to be able to pronounce positively, as to their
variety ; and actually carried to my tent, with much dif-
ficulty, part of a branch of a cocoa-nut tree, which bore the
strictest examination, and could not possibly have been
mistaken.

It is natural in such situations, to endeavour to trace the
causes of such extraordinary transmutations ; but I could
find no native capable of assisting my research, nor any
other signs, to enable me to form any correct conclusion.
I therefore venture a diffident opinion, that, when formerly
flourishing and planted with trees, the ground on which
these hillocks now stand, was inundated by a sudden flood,
many centuries back ; and after continuing under water for
several hundred years, was as suddenly dried up again by
some volcanic eruption, and left in that state, in which,
with little alteration, I found them ; for all the lapidaries
in the east uniting " together, could not clear the ground
of these fragments, which would most likely require a
thousand waggons to remove to any distance.

On the 12th of June we reached the neighbourhood
of a Poligar Fort, forty miles from Trevycary, called

V7ETEEVALLUM.
This place, in which we found a very comfortable

iWl

'MP'

1804.] REMINISCENCES. 303

Choultry, was now in ruins. Small, and much like other
Poligar Forts, it embraced the foot of a very rugged hill,
formerly fortified, but now rendered completely inacces-
sible in all directions, from being overgrown with rattan
bushes, the thickest and most impenetrable of all eastern
jungles, armed wath innumerable thorns, resembling small
hooks, from which there is no escaping when once en-
tangled. The country round, is wild and beautiful,
abounding in all kinds of game, but the jungle is every-
where formidable ; and we could hear and see pea-fowl,
and jungle-fowl, close to us, on the hill, though it was im-
possible to get at them. Within an inner fort, or citadel,
on the slope of the hill, in an ancient Palace, resided a
Poligar chief, the lineal descendant of the former petty
sovereigns of the country : a very stout young man,
though oppressed with fever. He was extremely civil to
us, and sent out his carpets for our accommodation in the
choultry. I had the pleasure of giving him some medicine
and advice, but I fear the place to which he was in a
manner confined, was the sole cause of his illness : being-
little better than a state prisoner in his own fortress,
and he was forced to entreat the Tannadar's permission
to accompany me, with a few of his own armed domestics,
in search of game, in the surrounding jungle. So com-
pletely under subjection to the Collector's servants, are all
these ci-devant grandees of the Peninsula.

On the 14th of June, after a march of sixteen miles, we
arrived at a Collector's buno-alow at

304 MILITARY [A.D.

TRINOMALLY.
This town, so famous for the sanctity of it's temples, is
a very clean one, with broad streets, and decent houses ;
but the inhabitants were,, at this time, reduced to four
thousand, a very small number, compared with it's former
population. It is situated at the foot of a solitary moun-
tain, visible from a great distance in every direction, under
which are the Pagodas. One of them, reckoned the
largest in the Carnatic, is twelve stories high, and was in
capital repair. I went to the top of it, accompanied by
several Brahmins, who, to my great astonishment, did not
offer the slightest objection, as in many similar buildings
in other places; and had a most extensive view, not only
of the surrounding country, but of the interior and sacred
buildings, which these Brahmins told me, had been lately
repaired by the authority of Mr. Hyde, the Collector, at
the expense of four thousand pagodas. This is most ad-
mirable policy in our government ; it is, indeed, a chain of
gold entwined round the hearts of the subjects : I sincerely
wish our own places of worship were as liberally attended
to. The first thought that struck me, on approaching this
immense structure, by my calculation two hundred feet
high, was the obscurity of it's situation, being placed, as it
were in competition with a high mountain, which entirely
destroys it's effect : whereas, had it been erected on a
slight eminence, or even on a plain, it would tower aloft,
the wonder and admiration of all who should behold it.
A similar sensation, though from an opposite cause, I had
experienced two years before, on viewing St. Paul's

nil lipiifi ^'-^^^^"^"^ •

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I> ra-ivu by C ol o lid \V(

1809.] REMINISCENCES. 305

Cathedral in London from the street below ; so entirely
surrounded by dirty houses, that it was impossible to have
a distinct view of it, in any direction. The contrast, how-
ever, does not hold good, though both were equally mis-
placed, as the beauty of St. Paul's would be lost, even
in the largest 'square in London. From this Pagoda, I
could clearly distinguish the mountains of Giugee, to the
north-eastward.

Setting out again in the evening, intending to put up
for the night in a choultry, four miles distant, we passed
several good buildings, topes, &,c., in the first three miles ;
amongst which a large sphynx, about the size of an
elephant, particularly attracted my attention. It was very
well formed, and the mouth served as the entrance to a
neat stone tank, or reservoir. On arriving at the choultry
we found it pre-occupied by a fat beast of a naked Sa-
nashee, with a beard one foot, and hair several yards, long.
He had taken post at the entrance, and would not budge
an inch. Most of my acquaintances would have kicked
or beaten him out; I merely bestowed a few ridiculous
epithets on him, which moved not a feature of his disgust-
ing countenance ; and then, proceeding eight miles further,
to find shelter for the night, we supped in the jungle at
eleven, P.M.

On the 19th of June, after having travelled seventy-
six miles from Trinomally, we reached Colonel Graham's
house at

KISTNAGHERRY,

A very strong hill-fort, dismantled and abandoned, in con-

VOL. I. X

306 MILITARY [A.D.

sequence of a most melancholy accident which happened
some years back. Captain Harry Smith who commanded,
and many of the garrison, being destroyed at mid-day by
the blowing up of the magazine, when opened to air some
powder. It also blew away considerable parts of the forti-
fications, which have never since been repaired. This had,
in happier times, been the seat of the Collector, and most
of the gentlemen in the Burramhaul. The house of Colonel
Graham, the last Collector, was still standing, but aban-
doned, as were all the other buildings in this beautiful
and once flourishing spot. We met Captain Parlby here,
belonging to the 1st battalion of the 7th regiment, at
Ryacottah, the officer who was wounded at Lassulgaum i
and as the fort was of too difficult ascent to be attempted
in mid-day, we proceeded in the evening towards Rya-
cottah, distant seventeen miles.

RYACOTTAH.
Winding through a steep and difficult Pass, occasionally
very rugged, we reached Colonel Strange's house, who was
in command of the station. This was the best place I
had seen for many months ; an immense rock, exceedingly
well fortified, rearing it's crest above the surrounding
mountains, and assuming different forms in every different
direction. In the hands of an English garrison it might
be pronounced strong, but it appeared to me not remark-
ably so, in a common point of view, as there are roads up
on bcth sides, one of which is fit for wheeled carriages.

1809.] REMINISCENCES. 307

It was well found in all sort of military stores, and had
ordnance, from six to twenty-four pounders, in abundance.
There are three reservoirs of water on the summit, one of
which has never been fathomed ; two bungalows, guard-
rooms, barracks, and magazines ; and the climate is really
delightful.

Colonel Strange's house, below, was a capital one, built
by Colonel Doveton, a former Commandant, and sold to
Government, for four thousand pagodas. There were several
other bungalows also below, in which the gentlemen of the
garrison resided. The Colonel had a capital garden, about
a mile and a half outside, in which were apples, peaches,
oranges, and every fruit common to the country ; and here,
making my last mention of one of the kindest-hearted,
simplest souls the world ever produced, I must say that
Bob Strange was one of my earliest friends in the country.
We were in the same regiment at Vellore, and I never
knew a man more universally beloved ; because he never
did or said an unkind thing. His hand, his heart, and his
purse were all alike open, and ready to assist any fellow
creature; nor do I recollect a single instance of unkindness
on his part, even to a dumb animal. If there ever was a
pure heart in wretched sinful man, Bob Strange possessed
it. He was very abstemious, though easily affected when
led by company to drink ; an early riser, and great walker ;
he required no conveyance on a journey ; night or day was
perfectly the same to him ; and he would cheerfully walk
twenty or thirty miles to breakfast in a morning, and
return the same night, as a matter of course. His mild
X 2

308 MILITARY [A.D.

and gentle habits particularly endeared him to the natives ;
and when walking out, he always carried some money and
little scraps in his pocket, to give the children he was sure
to meet with in his perambulations. Still he was not a
soldier; he could not drill; and a smart dress was his
abomination : but he was of more consequence, in my
estimation, than a thousand soldiers, raising the European
character wherever he went, and compelling the natives
to love their usurping rulers. He died at Ryacottah, in
1812, at an advanced age; and his old comrade has since
dropped a silent tear upon his monument, in that now
deserted place.

On the evening of the 22nd of June we set out, in-
tending to sleep in a choultry at Oodinapilly, ten miles
off. Colonel Strange walking with us ; but, on arriving
there, found two young men had got possession, and
therefore pitched our tents, supped, and fell asleep, as did
all our people. The natural consequence of which was, a
long slit in the tent wall next morning; our tea chest
lying at some distance, broken to pieces, no easy job,
and a quantity of linen scattered about the jungle ; in
short, we had been robbed of a cooly load of things, and
the hole cut in the tent had led the invaders to nothing but
live stock, with which, by good luck, they were not in-
clined to meddle. Now, travelling as we were, by a road
httle frequented, and though a wild country, I had
armed all my servants, and, as I thought, drilled them into
tolerable militia ; but we have seen that the drowsy God
can at times seal the eyes of even regular troops, and our

1809.] RKMINISCKNCES. o<)9

loss served more as a subject of amusement tlian annoy-
ance. This was the only time I was ever robbed, either in
travelling, or in camp, in my life.

OOSOOR.
Moving on through a very good road, thirteen miles, the
Colonel still accompanying us, we reached a bungalow in
the fort of Oosoor, built by the last Commandant, the late
Major Muirhead. This fort is a perfect ruin, but the
fragments record it's former importance ; it had two entire
walls of solid masonry, one within the other, and a stone
counterscarp and wet ditch, with two large out-works in
front of the two gateways. The outer wall had many
bomb-proof apartments below the ramparts, and there was
a capital magazine under ground ; besides all this, it had a
square citadel in the centre, where Tippoo's garrison made
their last stand. A great quantity of powder must have
been expended in dismantling these beautiful works, as I.
never beheld masonry so completely destroyed. The
Pettah is a very fine one, and has excellent bazars,
abundantly supplied. We found an iron eighteen and a
twelve-pounder, apparently serviceable, lying dismounted
inside ; and there are two fine large falov/es, or lakes, in
the neighbourhood. In the afternoon we took a walk, the
Colonel leading the way, to look at a remarkable hill, with
a Pagoda on it's summit, about a mile in our rear, which
we found would make an excellent post for a company,
being roomy, and in capital repair. From this hill we also
got a view of Nundvdroog, mv new connnand, distant

310 MILITARY [A.D.

about sixty miles. The climate is delightful, and the water
being cold as ice, required resolution to use it early in
washing; indeed this is the case generally all over the
Mysore country at this season.

On the 24th of June we reached the cantonment of
Bangalore, distant twenty-six miles, and here, as if by
magic, had arisen a large military town, about three miles
from the fort ,• but as I did not remain there, I shall not
now say any thing more about it. The hill-fort of

NUNDYDROOG
Is situated about thirty miles in a direct line, nearly north,
from Bangalore, though by the road it is thirty-six miles.
We arrived there on the 27th of June, and took possession
of a house in the valley below, built upon an old choultry,
in the interior face of a square ; the remaining parts of
which served for barracks for the Sepoys, store rooms, &,c.
This square had been formerly attached to a small Pagoda,
for the accommodation of Brahmin visitors, &c. It was
roomy, and had a good stone tank in the centre. The
officers' houses were scattered about, and in very miserable
condition, the troops having been entirely withdrawn from
it for about twelve months previous. The fort is on the
summit of an enormous mountain, seventeen hundred and
sixty feet high, the base of which is about twelve miles in
circumference, and the walls above nearly three miles in
girth. The works are carried on all round, although two-
thirds of the rock upon which they stand are perfectly
impracticable. They are made of solid stone and chunam.

1809.] REMINISCENCES. 311

of immense thickness, and are double on the only assail-
able point, to the westward, where the hill, being connected
by another at a considerable distance, has a gradual slope
down to a Pass, formed between them, which is only about
fifty or sixty yards above the level of the plain. It was
breached and stormed in that direction, by a force under
our brave old friend, then Major Gowdie, in 1791; the
storming party following the defenders of the outer wall
through a gate in the inner one, and thus carrying the
place, with one entire uninjured rampart all round it,
having only breached the first wall that presented itself to
their view ; the enemy's fatal error being an attempt to
defend the outer breach. It was the same kind parent,
now Commander-in-Chief, who gave me the command of
his favourite conquest in 1809 ; and in my opinion, this fort
would be rendered impregnable, by cutting off and entirely
destroying the outer works, and blowing up enough of the
solid rock between the two walls, to form a good ditch.
The only road up is formed by steps, made in some parts
and cut in others, completely commanded by the works,
and perhaps three miles in length. There are two gate-
ways, one above the other; after ascending the latter,
we came upon an immense undulating plain, somewhat
elevated in the centre, containing the remains of an
old Poligar fort, which must have been the original
work many centuries back. There are several fine reser-
voirs of water, and one large stone tank in the fort ; and
there was also at this time a beautiful garden, made by
Colonel Cuppage, some years previous ; the trees of which.

312 MILITARY [A.D.

still standing, are watered with dew and misty clouds,
which are continually passing over the hill. Amongst them
we found an enormous peach, a few plum, and several
flourishing Seville orange trees ; all three being rarities in
the East Indies, particularly the latter, of which I had
never met with any before, in all my peregrinations.

The climate upon this hill during the day is truly
European; but the nights are severe, in consequence of
strong winds, accompanied by the misty clouds I have
mentioned. In one of the reservoirs I have noticed, is a
limpid spring of most delicious water, made to pass
through a small stone cow, and said by the natives to be
the source of the Penaur, or Punaar River, which gradu-
ally increasing, and joined by other streams, passes over
an immense tract of country, descends the barrier moun-
tains beyond Kurpah, near Sidout, and runs into the sea,
a few miles beyond Nellore. The Pettah is extensive, and
was formerly connected with the foot of the hill by a line
of works and deep ditch, now out of repair and useless ;
it had very good bazars in it, and the place altogether is
famous for the best potatoes and soft sugar in the Penin-
sula ; while the gardens abound in almost every fruit and
vegetable of Europe and Asia combined.

We had not been many days at this place, before word
was brought me, while sitting at tiffin, that a tiger had
just been very seen near our residence. Five of us being
together at the moment, of whom all but myself are now
no more, we agreed to attack him with our fowling-pieces,
without any Sepoys, and out we sallied. We traced the

1809.] REMINISCENCES. 313

monster, a large panther, to a small rocky hill under the
eastern side of Nundydroog ; and, having lent my double
barrel to Lieutenant Dawson, I took a single gun, and
made one of my servants carry a hog spear. We got one
glimpse of the beast ascending the hill, and, pushing up
different ways to meet him on the top. Lieutenant Dawson
and myself, with my servant Syed Oosmaun, reached a
rock on the very summit, which was barely sufficient for
us to stand on, with a large chasm on one side, where it
had been severed, most likely by lightning, from a similar
fragment; whilst, on the opposite side, was a perpen-
dicular precipice. My boy, leaning forward to look down
the chasm, told me, " he was sure that the animal was
there." The words were scarcely out of his mouth, ere a
roar that nearly petrified us was accompanied by a spring.
The poor fellow had barely time to turn his body half
round towards us, when he received a blow that laid him flat,
and hurled him several feet down the chasm ; but, by good
luck, across a narrower aperture. I fired at the same instant ;
and, when they had both disappeared, Lieutenant Dawson
fired both barrels, by good luck without effect, for the
panther, perforated by my ball, had fallen undermost, and
disappeared down the entire chasm. All this was but the
work of a moment ; and we found poor Syed Oosmaun,
who declared I had killed the beast at the instant he
received the blow, as yellow as saffron, with a fearful gash,
seven inches asunder, on his right shoulder, the marks
of the panther's delicate digits, of which I had consider-
able difficulty to cure him afterwards. The creature was
seen no more, dead or alive ; and we returned home, ex-

314 MILITARY [A.D.

hausted by the exertions we had made to so little purpose.
Captain Stevenson, and Lieutenants Walker* and Tagg,
were the other sportsmen who were my companions in this
remarkable excursion.

?e<^

HYDER'S DROP.

In this valley, and about a mile from our house, stood a
rocky hill, a few hundred yards high, with a remarkably
large perpendicular rock at the eastern extremity, known
by the name of Hyder's Drop ; which, not less from it's
very picturesque appearance, than from the blood-stained
fame connected with it's former history, certainly merits
an especial mention. This rock was nearly insular, and
was connected with the summit of the hill by a narrow

* James Walker, a native of Scotland, lived to distinguish himself as
a Major in the Burmese war, in which he fell, when gloriously leading
a portion of the Madras troops ; to the command of which he had been
specially appointed by Major-general Sir Archibald Campbell. He
had previously signalised himself on that service; though, being in a
very infirm state of health, he had been forced away, and only just
returned in time to die the happiest death of a soldier.

1809.] REMINISCENCES. 317

causeway, evidently the work of man. It had a wall
round it, and a small gate by which to enter a low
bungalow of coarse materials, in which some hundreds of
European prisoners were confined by those monsters Hyder
and Tippoo ; and it was well known that, whenever the
inmates became too numerous, some of them were hoisted
over the precipice ; when a fall of seventy or eighty feet
ended their misery by breaking every bone in their bodies,
which were kindly left as food for jackalls, hyenas, and
tigers. We found the names of many of our countrymen
scratched upon the vi'alls and roof; and this puts me in
mind of another favourite drop of those inhuman Mussul-
mans, on the top of Nundydroog, towards the south-west,
where the rock is m one place about one thousand, or
one thousand two hundred, feet in perpendicular height ;
from which spot I was assured that some hundreds of
our Sepoys, having been taken prisoners and refused to
serve the tyrant, were rolled over to eternity, sewn up in
sacks. I even visited the bottom of the precipice, with
much labour, but could not find any traces of the facts
related, time having removed all vestiges of their remains.
Connected by the small pass I have already mentioned,
to the eastward, rises a rugged mountain as high as
Nundydroog, but naturally much easier of access ; Cap-
tain Baynes, when stationed below with his corps, had
erected a small bungalow on it's summit, and it has ever
since gone by the name of Baynes' Hill. There is a very
good view of most of the works of the fort from it, though
much too distant for annoyance by cannon. And here let
me do justice to the memory of a brave and enterprising

318 MILITARY [A.D.

soldier, who was much in the confidence of the great
Sepoy General ; and though his name does not occur in
my Journal at the time, I well remember how usefully and
successfully he was employed, with a small force, collect-
ing and bringing in supplies, during the first Mahrattah
campaign. He was conversant with all the country
languages, and of a most indefatigable nature; no man
knew better how to rule the Bunjaries, or itinerant grain
dealers; and it was said, that he used an immense number
of English whips, in touching up the indolent and idle, by
which means he made most surprising marches, and en-
sured regular supplies. General Wellesley left him Town-
Major of Seringapatam, which situation was afterwards
abolished, and Captain Baynes died at Nundydroog, some
time in the year 1807.

KURMULDROOG.

About five miles to the northward is a remarkable strong
hill-fort, called Kurmuldroog, or Kurnallah, now dis-
mantled and entirely abandoned, fully as high as Nundy,
and twice as difficult of access; it has, indeed, been a
surprising effort of man to render such a place impreg-
nable. I have been on the top of it ; the first gate took
us exactly half an hour, and the last an hour to reach,
from the bottom of the hill. It has several walls, built
where none were actually requisite, and I never was in a
more inaccessible place. The country round it is wild and
picturesque, and it appears, like Nundydroog, to have
commanded a pass in the mountains in days of yore.

An unfortunate participation in the troubles of this

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■? t-'

c
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1810.] REMINISCENCES. 321

eventful year induced me in August, to resign the com-
mand of both corps and station, and proceed to the sea-
coast. Arriving at Sadras on the 7th of September, we
hired poor Nonamallee's house, from her successor, where
a large party of officers from different stations, was as-
sembled, and where we remained, until Lord Minto's
arrival at INIadras, when we were called down to the
Presidency.

BANGALORE.
The first day of 1810 found me at Bangalore, in com-
mand of my own corps, the 1st battalion of the 3rd regi-
ment, from which I had been removed, while in England.
Major-General Ward commanding the division, resided in
a part of the Palace in the Fort ; and Colonel Gibbs
commanded the station ; at which were assembled His
Majesty's 25th dragoons. His Majesty's 59th regiment,
the 5th regiment of native cavalry, the 2nd battalion of
artillery, and the 1st battafion of the 3rd regiment; this
being one of the finest and healthiest cantonments in all
India. The 1st battalion of the 2nd regiment, 1st battalion
of the 4th regiment, and 2nd battalion of the 17th regiment,
joined shortly afterwards, when, forming a large force for
parades and field exercise, 1 became a Brigadier, and con-
tinued so for several years ; though only when the whole
were under arms, and no allowances being attached to the
appointment; still an opportunity of learning the duty
was certainly most desirable, and Colonel Gibbs was the
clearest and best driller of a line I ever knew in my life.
Let me add, as he has since lost his life, as a General

VOL, 1. V

322 MILITARY [A.D.

Officer in America, that he was every thing, in my mind,
that approaches to a perfect soldier ; kind, considerate, and
impartial ; with a perfect knowledge of his profession, he
taught and encouraged every man under his command,
and was most deservedly loved and esteemed by all. He
was removed, to go with his regiment against the Isle of
France, and we got Colonel R. R. Gillespie in his room ;
shortly after which Major-general Ward was also removed
from the command of the division, to go on the same
service, and was succeeded by Colonel Gillespie. The
General lives still, in the enjoyment of a well-earned fame,
and rewarded by those honours from his Sovereign, so dear
to the heart of a soldier. I will only venture to say that,
placed in such a command, at such a critical period of our
Eastern history, the kind and delicate conduct of himself
and family, were duly and gratefully felt, by every Com-
pany's officer who possessed a heart capable of appreciat-
ing it's real value. The character of Sir Robert Rollo
Gillespie, now called to his long home, although more
difficult to pourtray, must not be omitted. An intimacy,
however, contracted in 1807, when, at a trying moment, he,
though then a perfect stranger, had proved an able and
active friend, in defence of an innocent and oppressed
brother soldier, had furnished me with a greater knowledge
of the man, than a year's merely serving under him, as a
commanding officer, could have ever given. Brave almost
to a fault, and impetuous and headstrong in private life, he
was cool and collected on service, and had a very fair
knowledge of the duties of his profession. Unfortunately
for himself, and many others, the first and great duties of

1810.] REMINISCENCES. 323

a Christian, if they had ever been instilled into his mind,
had been early obliterated by the errors of a fashionable
education ; and the mistaken bubble called honour, was
the object of his adoration, as it is that of thousands.
This false deity will lead his votaries to expose their own
lives, and take the lives of their equally misguided friends,
for a mere difference of opinion, or the most trifling of-
fence ; and, carried to it's highest pitch, in his generous
mind, he would have cheerfully taken his friend's place,
and exposed his own life to save that of another. I
know I am treading on delicate ground, and I confess
myself very ignorant of what is called fashionable life in
England. The term I have used, is one commonly applied
to errors, which in the East we do not wish to designate by
harsher, though more appropriate epithets. I shall not
enter into further particulars, as apphcable to the conduct
of my present subject. Sir Robert Gillespie was kind
hearted and liberal, even to the injury of his own fortune ;
fond of society, and, off duty, a cheerful and easy com-
panion. I have enjoyed many a pleasant day with him,
on shooting and hunting parties in the country, and have
occasionally dined with him in the cantonment. Though
fully aware of our essential difference of opinions on do-
mestic subjects, he never entered my doors, and this I felt
as the strongest proof of his esteem ; for attentions were
not wanting to prove a recollection of what might be ac-
ceptable, under such circumstances, to my family.

His conduct at Cornelus, in planning and leading the
storming party, which secured the conquest of Java, proved

324 MILITARY [A.D,

to his brother officers, that he was as considerate as brave ;
whilst his behaviour at D'Jucjucatra at a subsequent
period, when with little more than one thousand five
hundred men, he stormed a capital fort defended by
thirty thousand, and thereby saved the lives of all the
British on the island, had something so much of romance
in it, that if it were not well known, I should be almost
afraid to mention it. Surrounded by an enemy, who were
in hourly expectation of forcing him to surrender, or of
entirely annihilating his little force ; without the means of
breaching, even if it had been possible to carry on any
approaches in such circumstances ; he put himself at the
head of his band of heroes, and carried all before him, in
the most miraculous manner : no exploit in the East, ever
surpassed this, either in daring, judgment, or success.
Another instance of cool and intrepid presence of mind
was displayed by him at Palembang, in the same island ;
where he saved his own life and a few followers in an
equally surprising manner ; had he but been religious, I
should attribute his safety to far different causes ; and last
of all, his orders and personal conduct at Kalungah,
where he lost his life, were truly admirable. He died, as
he had lived, one of the bravest and most devoted soldiers,
that Britain ever had to mourn.

Discoursing one morning at Colonel Gillespie's house
about the hunting of tigers, he proposed we should get one
from Mr. Cole at Mysore, and hunt him on horseback with
spears ; a few of us agreed to the trial, and a cage was ac-
cordingly received from Closepett, with a fine large and

1810.] REMINISCENCES. 325

active tiger ; the party, consisting of five or six horsemen,
assembled immediately, and I ordered a Naigue and six
Sepoys out with the cart to the race-course, on which it
was determined to have the hunt. In order to make me more
ail fait at this new sport, the Colonel made me a present
of one of his own spears, made on purpose for him in
Calcutta- and the guard was ordered to draw up, un-
loaded, between the cart and the cantonment, to prevent
the tiger going in that direction. The door was turned
towards the country and opened, when out crept the
animal, and, looking round, ran immediately upon the
guard, the nearest man of whom presented his bayonet,
which, entering his side, threw him over. Recovering in
an instant, he twisted the hilt of the bayonet off the end
of the musquet, and knocked down the Sepoys, one after
another, like a set of nine pins. The scene was so novel,
and the result so unlooked for, that we were all paralysed ;
the animal actually put his paws on one man's shoulders
in spite of musquet and bayonet, and bit three or four
teeth out of his head. And of four sufferers, for whom a
handsome present was raised by subscription, this poor
fellow was most dangerously wounded. At length, having
prostrated all his nearest opponents, the beast crouched
down, when the Colonel rode at him full tilt, and delivered
his spear; but I saw, in following him, that it stuck in
the ground, close to his neck, but had not entered. He
afterwards chased the Colonel, and the Aumildar, or rather
Foujdar, the head native in the Pettah on the part of the
Mysore government, and then crouched a second time. It

326 MILITARY [A.D.

is only at those times of inaction that they can be ap-
proached with any safety. About twenty Peons, belong-
ing to the Foujdar, now advanced, and one from their
number ran up behind the crouching monster, and with a
long straight sword cut him across the tail. The animal
then rose, and turning round, received a stab in his mouth ;
when rushing on, the man retreated still cutting at him,
till he drew him into the midst of his comrades, who
instantly despatched him with some hundred wounds.
These men were all armed alike, with a long sword and
shield, and their dexterity was equally admirable with that
of the cool conduct of the single individual who first
attacked him. The Colonel afterwards complained, that
these fellows had cut up a tiger which he had already
speared ; but though I never contradicted him, I can
vouch to the contrary : still, I firmly believe, he thought
he had pierced him through. Having once broken the
ice, Mr. Cole was afterwards so kind as to furnish us
with frequent subjects. Colonel Gillespie, however, leav-
ing us immediately after our first essay, was no more
present to partake in the sport he had first taught us to
pursue.

On the evening of the 19th of April, while pruning a
tree in our garden, a dense cloud, which had been gather-
ing over our heads, suddenly burst with a terrific clap, and
the lightning descending into the next compound, killed
one man, and wounded three others, in our sight, without
any external marks of violence about them. Another man
was killed by the same lightning, about one hundred yards

1811.] REMlNlSCliNCES, 327

further off, and the storm was over almost immediately.
This sudden explosion, as it were, clearing the elements,
without producing-, as we had anxiously anticipated, a good
fall of rain.

328 MILITARY [A.D.

CHAPTER X.

Co07-g — Alarekherah, the Capital — The Mdhd Swdmee — Shooting
Excursions in the Interior — Second Visit, and Return.

COORG.
.The kingdom of Coorg, situated to the westward of My-
sore, is of small extent, being comprised within the twelfth
degree of North latitude, and the seventy-fifth and seventy-
sixth degrees of East longitude. It is about fifty miles in
length, and thirty-five only in the broadest part. Sur-
rounded by lofty mountains, for the most part inaccessible,
it contains many others, scattered over the interior surface,
forming a succession of wild rugged hills, and highly cul-
tivated valleys ; and, as if this were not sufficient to con-
firm it's title to the appellation of a " Strong Country,"
they have divided the whole interior into squares. Those
where no streams or marshes are contained, being generally
about a mile in width, with an enormous ditch and high
mound, or bank, formed by the original contents of the
ditch; and covered inside and out, with deep jungle, in
which are included many enormous forest trees. Some of
these inclosures have four apertures for ingress and regress,

1811.] REMINISCENCES. 329

one in each face ; particularly those through which the prin-
cipal roads pass, and which consequently present so many
strong barriers against an approaching enemy. Every
hill and mountain is also covered with jungle; the finest
teak, jack, maiigo, and other large trees, growing spon-
taneously in a country watered by numerous streams, and
continual fogs and misty clouds, which, from it's great
height, even above the Mysore, are attracted by the hills,
and cover them during the night. In such a country,
no town or village meets the eye until you are close upon
it ; but though I have traversed nearly the whole, at dif-
ferent times, I do not remember to have seen above six or
eight villages throughout ; and I am, indeed, inclined to
pronounce the majority of it's inhabitants to be wild ele-
phants, tigers, bears, bisons, buffalos, hyenas, civets, elks,
deer, antelopes, and minor game. With such resources, it
is easy to ensure a day's sport, by opening the barriers of
one or more enclosures for some time previous, and when
required, to secure them simultaneously.

In the days of Hyder's successful usurpation of the
Musnud of Mysore, the reigning Rajah of Coorg was de-
feated, and taken prisoner by this Mussulman Prince, and
carried to Mysore ; where he was kindly treated from
policy, and persuaded the usurper, that if he would send
him back to his own country, he would prevail on all his
subjects to submit to the Mussulman yoke; they having
previously betaken themselves to their hills and fastnesses,
from whence he could neither drive nor recall them. This
man's name was Veraj under : it is said that he took an
oath of fidelity to Hyder, before he was released, and that

330 MILITARY [A.D.

in after times, he boasted of this breach of faith. Be that
as it may, he proved himself an able statesman, if such a
terra be applicable to a mountain chief, since he improved
the natural fortifications of his kingdom, built towns,
formed an armed militia, and successfully defied his former
conqueror. After the death of Tippoo, this extraordinary
man went suddenly mad, and in one day destroyed one
thousand two hundred of his relations and principal nobles ;
leaving, under an erroneous idea of his imbecility, only
one younger brother alive, of all the males of his family.
Verajunder did not long survive this act, and most likely,
such a man was assisted out of this world, by some of the
trembling slaves, by whom he was attended. I had,
however, nearly omitted to mention the act of all others,
which stamped his conduct, with the most indelible
character of insanity. There was an old woman who had
confidentially attended him for years, cooked his victuals,
and frequented the interior of his Palace, and a child only
a few years old, who was born there, a relation of this
woman. After completing the work of destruction, in which
he had played a conspicuous part, assisted by several
elephants and soldiers in the court-yard, he retired into
his study ; the old woman came in, to offer her services,
followed by the child, when he immediately stabbed the
woman, and, seizing the child, laid it upon his table, and
deliberately dissected it with a penknife.

He was succeeded by the boy, whom his blindness had
spared, and left him immense wealth, as well as most
absolute power over all his subjects, and every kind of pro-
perty in his little kingdom ; indeed, I blush to write it, the

1811.] REMINMSCENCES, 331

absolute deity of his ignorant and misguided people.
Such, in March 1811, was Lingraj under Wadeer, to whom
I carried an introduction from the Honourable vVrthur
Cole, Resident in Mysore, who was also nominal Resident
in Coorg.

On the 19th of the same month, having heard much
in praise of the sport in Coorg, and being at leisure for
such a trip, I set out from Bangalore, in company with
Lieutenant W.Williamson, a young man of my own corps ;
both a keen and hardy sportsman, as well as a very
agreeable companion. We travelled post, in palanquins,
to Verajundrapet, a distance of one hundred and fifty miles,
and of course could not make many observations on the
road ; but from my Journal there I shall now make regular
extracts, this country being little known, even to Residents
in India.

" On the 22nd of March, after a hearty breakfast, pro-
vided for us by the Rajah's people, gratis, we mounted two
large elephants, at day-break, and proceeded over hills
and through vales, up and down, zigzag, now at tlie bottom
of deep ravines, then at the top of precipices, till, at last,
after eighteen hours' fagging, we reached the Palace, built
for the accommodation of Europeans, outside tlie stone
fort of

MAREKIIERAH,
The capital. This place is delightfully situated on an
eminence, near the summit of a range of lofty and difficult
mountains, but is nevertheless commanded by them, and
had actually been breached from them. The pass up these

332 MILITARY [A.D.

mountains being fortified and defended, however, would
make it a very strong place, for it completely commands
every approach on the other side. The distance we esti-
mated at twenty-four miles. The Rajah's own Palace is in-
side the fort ; but his horse and elephant stables are outside,
on the slope of the glacis. The town is remarkably clean
and well built, about half a mile off, by an excellent high
road ; and at the further extremity there is a rising ground,
with a strong mud barrier, after entering which, you come
upon a small plain with a magnificent tomb, erected by the
present Rajah, to the memory of his late brother, and his
wife. The people invite Europeans in, and shew them
every part of the building ; and I really think it surpasses
both Hyder's and Tippoo's, as well as that erected by
Aurungzebe, over his favourite wife, at Aurungabad. It is
much in the style of Mahomedan edifices, being a wide
square with a handsome dome in the centre, and four
turrets at the angles. On the top of the dome is a gold
ball, with a weathercock above it, and all the window bars
are made of solid brass.

" On this spot, by appointment, we met the Mtdia
Swamee, at half-past three in the evening. He was dressed
in a Major-general's uniform, appeared to be about thirty
years of age, with very handsome features, and a person in
which were joined both activity and strength. He imme-
diately shook hands with us, and desired us to be seated,
after a short conversation in Hindoostanee, which he at
first addressed to an interpreter, until he found that I
could speak and understand him in that language ; he then
produced several rifles, ready loaded, ordered cocoa-nuts to

1811.] REMINISCENCES. 333

be hoisted on the tops of spears, fifty yards off, and then
desired us to fire. Suffice it to say, he beat us both most
completely, splitting every nut he fired at in the centre,
while we, either struck the sides or missed entirely. After
this, he asked us to take a ride with him ; a beautiful
English horse was brought to me, an Arabian to Lieutenant
Williamson, and he himself also rode a very fine Arabian.
We rattled about in the square for half an hour, when he
desired us to alight and rest ourselves ; and taking a long
spear, performed several feats with it still on horseback,
with great grace and dexterity. Our horses being brought
again, we remounted, and proceeded with him to the fort;
the Rajah insisting on our riding one on each side of him
all the way. On entering his Palace, we were amused by
a set of dancing girls, keeping time to reels and country
dances, played on two fiddles ; and the Maha Swamee
shewed us various portraits of himself, the King, the Prince
of Wales, General Wellesley, &c. He then took us into
another apartment, and shewed us a dozen of highly
finished single and double rifles, by Manton and Jover ;
fowling pieces, pistols, &c. then an air gun, which he
desired us to try. It was now seven, P. M., and torch-
light had succeeded the daylight in his court-yard ; we
took aim out of the windosv, at various things, and hit
them, and I even knocked down a lime, a species of small
lemon, off the top of a cocoa-nut, so uncommonly true
did it carry. His son and several relations were next
introduced to us, all fine looking boys ; and the heir ap-
parent, being about seven or eight years old, dressed in a
General's uniform, with a sword by his side, put me in

334 MILITARY [A.D.

mind of some old French prints, in which the girls are
dressed in hoops and farthingales, and the boys with bag
wigs and small swords. Ram-fights, &c. were going on all
this time in the yard, as it were to amuse the attendants ;
and two of the rams had four horns each. Then a lion
made his appearance, led by a dozen men, with a strong
rope. He appeared very tame, played with his leaders,
and suffered me to go up to him and pat him on the back.
I acknowledge this was a bit of bravado on my part, and
I was by no means sure how it would be received. Thank
God ! it turned out well ! though there was more folly,
than judgment in the attempt. Next came a large royal
tiger and two panthers, the former having his claws pared,
but very savage, trying every instant to break loose. We
took leave at half past seven, quite pleased with the kind
and affable treatment of this Prince, who, I am inclined to
beheve, is adored by his people.

'' I must now describe our own habitation, built on a
small island, surrounded by paddy ground, now dry, for
the sole accommodation of Europeans. It is a large
square, having a hall in the centre, a large covered-in
veranda all round it, and four bed-rooms projecting at the
angles of the veranda ; all on an upper story, the lower
rooms serving for the guard, attendants, store-rooms, &c.
It stands on a square of seventy feet, the veranda having
thirty-eight glass windows, with Venetian blinds outside.
The bed-rooms have sixteen windows, and the hall eight
glass doors ; every part being neatly furnished, in the
English style, with beds, tables, card-tables, writing boxes,
chairs, chandeliers, settees. Sic. &c. And there is an old

1811.] REMINISCENCES. 335

butler of ray early Vellore friend, Colonel Ridgway
Mealey, and a dozen active servants, who very speedily
produce an English breakfast or dinner, served up on
handsome Queen's ware, with every kind of European
liquor ; and what is even still more extraordinary, the
Cook bakes good bread !

" After all oar exertions of this day, it may readily be
supposed we slept soundly ; and on the morning of the
23rd rose betimes as usual, a custom which I most strenu-
ously recommend to all young men doomed to spend any
time in the East, and went to visit the Rajah's stud, and
elephants ; and amongst the latter found a young white
one, about two years old, most perfectly formed, with
flaxen hair, light eyes, and fair skin. Of these animals, as
his country abounds in them, he has great abundance.
After breakfast, we were astonished by a visit from the
Maha Swamee, in state. No longer disguised in an
European dress, he appeared in his native robes, richly-
decorated with jewels ; and cartes, in my eyes, he ap-
appeared a much handsomer man. He sat a few minutes,
and then told us that he had received intelhgence of a
wild elephant, and would, if we pleased, accompany us to
go and shoot him. To us, this was the most acceptable
offer he could have made. We retired to prepare our-
selves, and our shooting apparatus; and, on our return
from our own rooms, found his Highness ready, with
elephants and attendants. Away we set, the Rajah him-
self driving the one I rode, sitting across it's neck, with a
hook in the right hand and a knife in the other, to cut
down any small branches of trees likely to incommode me

336 MILITARY [A.D.

in the excursion. ' Such a man/ thought I, ' at the head
of his followers, must be invincible.' So perfectly dif-
ferent from the effeminate grandeur of most Eastern
potentates.* Arrived at the spot, which was only about a
mile off, we dismounted ; and while the people were pre-
paring seats on trees for our reception, amused ourselves
shooting arrows at a mark ; in which, as usual, the Rajah
beat us hollow. When all was ready, each climbed his
own tree, the Rajah between us, and sat in a snug little
wicker-box with three guns of the Rajah's each, and two
of his eunuchs to load our pieces. The Rajah had a
single rifle carrying a twelve-ounce ball, and two double
ones, of one ounce each. Williamson had a single rifle of
two ounces, a double Manton of one ounce, and his own
double fowling-piece. I had a single Jover of four ounces,
a double Manton of one ounce, and my own double Beck-
with ; and before we ascended, the Rajah explained to us
where to take aim, &,c. ; which, in an elephant, is a pro-
jecting spot immediately over each eye. This space, in
the smallest, will be about four inches, and in the largest
nearly eight inches in diameter ; and the eunuchs were to
advise us when the game was near enough to fire. After
four hours' watching, while tomtoms were beating, collery
horns blowing, and English drums sounding the general,
the monster made his appearance, strutting in all the
pride and wantonness of his enormous strength, and lay-

* Sorry shall I be, in the sequel, to reverse this most delightful, though
airy vision ; but truth, with me, is the first maxim, and it will force me
to dispel the delightful romance which was here intruded on us by the
most plausible appearances.

1811.] REMINISCENCKS. 337

ing down every obstacle that opposed his passage. He
came close under Williamson's gun, who fired and killed
him on the spot. The creature rolled over instantaneously,
carrying away several small trees, as he extended his
enormous bulk upon the ground. For a minute afterwards,
the successful sportsman, unused to such game, sat with
his mouth open, gazing in utter amazement at the mighty
proof of his own prowess ; while the Rajah and myself,
more used to such scenes, descending by our wicker
ladders, were on the top of the carcass in a moment. It
stood ten feet high, and was in excellent condition ; the
tusks were two feet outside, and nearly three feet long
when extracted ; and the length of the body was very
nearly the same as it's height. He had been very violent
all the morning, being what the natives call must, and had
demolished the huts and plantations of several of the
Ryotts, or farmers, in his way to meet his quietus. At
such seasons the elephant is very dangerous, and blindly
rushes on every thing that opposes him ; at other times,
though very furious when wounded, he is rather timid,
and will not be the aggressor in a fray.

" Here, supposing our day's work was concluded, we
proposed to take leave, but we were yet to learn some-
thing further of the kind attentions of this excellent
Prince. He told us, that having kept us so long from our
own tiffin, it being then three o'clock, he had ordered a
dinner to be brought out for us ; and, to our surprise, we
found a small house built of leaves, a table and chairs, a
dinner, consisting of pillawe, mutton cutlets, curry, &c.
all ready for us. Nor was this all : the Rajah followed us

VOL. 1. z

338 MILITARY [A.D.

in, and begged us to excuse him, as he was not very well ;
but left his servants with guns, powder, shot, &c., and four
elephants, desiring us to amuse ourselves after dinner as
we pleased. We accordingly dined, and then beat a
thick jungle for game, though without success, it being
the dry season, when they retire into the most inaccessible
parts of the mountains. At five, P. M., we returned to
our Palace, well satisfied with the adventures of the day.

" On the 24th we took a pedestrian stroll in the even-
ing, in search of common game, but returned unsuccessful ;
the jungle being every where impenetrable ten yards from
the road. This day I beat the Eajah in firing ; and, as
he seemed busy, we took leave early, though he would not
even hint so to us. We then visited his pets, in their
own habitations. The lioness has a capital house in the
fort, with a boarded floor and glass windows, very uncom-
mon in the East, and seems to be his greatest favourite.
I mistook her sex the first day. Her majesty would not
sit still a moment, while I attempted to sketch her. The
tiger is housed, with several panthers and leopards ; and,
extraordinary to relate, a large mortar is mounted in the
same place. This is the only piece of ordnance I have
seen in the Coorg country ; and, indeed, this Prince seems
to trust more to the affection of his subjects, and the
justice of the English, than to the strength of his fortifi-
cations and the multitude of his guns.

'' On the 25th of March, we paid our parting visit to
the Maha Swamee, and received from him the following
presents: two gold-handled Coorg knives, two panther-
skin caps, two sandal-wood sticks, one royal tiger, and two

18J2.] REMINISCENCES. 339

panther skins, and parted from him with mutual expres-
sions of esteem and regard. The Rajah informed us, that
the present indifferent state of his health, and not being
certain of finding game immediately, had alone prevented
his taking us into the country to shoot, but promised, if
we would return at the same season next year, we should
be amply gratified with field sports."

Thus ended my first trip to Coorg, but as I trust what I
have already stated, will render my readers willing to
know what remains to be told on this subject, without in-
terruption, I shall anticipate a period of my Journal, and
extract the next trip at once. Having been ordered to
form a light corps from both battalions of the regiment,
with authority to select both men and officers from the
2nd battalion at Cannanore, I availed myself of the
opportunity, to pay a second visit to this interesting
Prince, and Mr. Cole was good enough to write and en-
treat he would be so kind as gratify my wishes, although
not exactly the season. Accompanied by Lieutenant
Meredith, a very fine young man of the regiment, also a
keen sportsman, since unfortunately dead, I accordingly
set out, and on the 17th of October, 1812, and reached
Sedaseer, the first village in his country ; after which my
Diary regularly proceeds as follows : —

" Here we were regaled with a cuddoo * cuny, and rice,
by the Coorg Rajah's guards, who refused any pecuniary
remuneration. The stockade seems newly finished. We
had some very unpleasant heavy rain in the evening, and
saw many wild-fowl in the tank. The whole road from
*■ A gourd, or pumpkin,
z 2

340 MILITARY [A.D.

Periapatam is extremely bad, and would require much
repair to fit it for the passage of guns. There was more
rain in the night, succeeded by a fog.

*' On the 18th of October we set forward, still in our
palanquins, in a dense fog ; the bearers bad, and the road
much worse, being nearly impassable for wheel-carriages.
At nine, A. M., we arrived at an open choultry in a small
bazar at Seedapoor, distance ten miles ; the barrier strong
with a dry ditch ; got a curry and eggs for breakfast,
gratis; and at half past eleven mounted two elephants.
At 1 mile, a barrier, with a dry ditch.
1|, — a barrier, with a dry ditch.

2, — a small tank and swamp.
2 1, — another barrier.

3, — a large swamp on the right.
3 1, — a house on the right.

3|, — another barrier, with paddy ground to the left,
at some distance.

4|, — a nice tank, and the village of Amootoonaur to
the right, beyond the paddy ground : a small clear hill
beyond it.

5, — a barrier.

6, — paddy ground, and a small village.

7, — houses on both sides, and paddy ground.
7|, — a barrier.

8, — a barrier.

9, — several houses ; we ascended a small hill.

11, — Verajundrapett ; the road the whole way was
very bad. The last four miles, in particular, through swamps
and paddy ground, intersected by deep water-courses.

1812.] REMINISCENCES. 341

" We arrived at twenty minutes past three, P. M., and
took a walk to look at a Christian church, building at the
western extremity of the village : it is about half finished,
and will be a grand edifice for the Romish Christians to
erect in a Pagan country. It is built from the foundation
of a porous stone, called soap-stone on the Malabar coast,
cemented with light clay, very thick ; and from a distance
resembles an old Gothic ruin in England. It will be fully
sufficient for two hundred communicants ; and this, I
understand, is the number of these mongrel-Christians,
exclusive of their children : the whole population of the
village being two thousand, also exclusive of children. We
afterwards visited the native place of worship in the village,
which is like a common choultry outside, but a door open-
ing within, discovers in the back part a stone bull, or cow,
covered with flowers ; and immediately behind it, a full-
length portrait of the late Rajah, set in a gold recess in
the wall. The Rajah's Subadar, who is an obliging hand-
some man, unlike the superstitious bigots of other coun-
tries, seemed anxious that we should look at it. He after-
wards gave us a curry, rice, fruit, vegetables, &.C., and
even sent us two China plates, and one copper spoon to eat
with ; or rather, I fancy, to dole out each man's portion of
the curry : for, finding us conversant in his own language,
he probably never dreamed we were such Goths, as not to
be able to eat with our fingers. He had previously fur-
nished us with a table and two chairs. I fired at a wild
dog and a jackall on the road, but saw no game ; and here
we slept in our palanquins.

" On the 19th we set out at three, A.M., and proceeded

342 MILITARY [A.D.

to the Cauvery river, which we reached at seven, A. M.,
and crossed in boats ; the stream being about six feet
deep. The banks are exceedingly high and steep, and
a strong barrier is placed on the left bank, called Angree.
I reckon this twelve miles from Verajundrapett. We
crossed a deep nullah at sixteen, another at eighteen, where
there is a very strong barrier, called Mootall Mooroo, and
another a little further on. We also crossed the Boharie
Nullah at nineteen and a half, and came to another barrier
at twenty, where there is a tappall hut. After this, we pro-
ceeded through swamps, over hills, &c., and at length passed
through a strong barrier at twenty-four ; after which we
ascended the mountain, and found the fort of Marekherah
completely repaired, and, passing it, took up our abode in
the old place, at a quarter past twelve, having been nine
hours and a quarter on the road ; the last five on ele-
phants. We then had our breakfast and took a sleep,
after which mounted two fine horses, and paid our respects
to the Mahk Swamee. He received us in his usual man-
ner, in his Palace, having sent ofi his camp equipage, &c.
to give us a shooting party in the interior. No general
officer's uniform this time ; but he looked well, and was
very kind and attentive. He shewed us two lions, two
tigers, two wild buffaloes, and a royal tiger-cub; then
a gun, completely made, and highly finished, by his own
smith ; and I really never saw a more elegant fowling-
piece. After sitting nearly two hours with him we took
our leave ; and when our dinner was served up, two of his
fiddlers made their appearance and regaled us with English
tunes ! In short, every thing apes England in this most

1812.] REMINISCENCES. 343

extraoidinary place. We, two plain soldiers, sat down to
a roasted goose, and twenty other dishes, and drank a
bottle of English claret between us ; rejecting, to the
amazement of the beholders, Madeira, beer, hock, &,c.,
all of which they expected us to swallow.

" On the 20th of October we rose with the lark, and took
a walk, first to the mausoleum, and afterwards to the horse
and elephant stables. The little white elephant had grown
considerably, but his skin was getting darker, and he ap-
peared to be in bad health. Lieutenant Davies joined us
here from Mysore, at half-past ten ; and having to start
early, we dined at noon. At one, P. M., the Rajah arrived
in his military uniform, on horseback. He dismounted
and sat with us some time, shewing us some of his guns,
and then inviting us to mount our horses and proceed, he
accompanied us to the top of the hill, when, wishing us
good sport, he returned, and we pursued our journey.
We found six tents pitched in a clean compound, about
five miles off. Here was also an immense well-finished
mud building, with a most substantial thatched roof, called
Cuggore Punug; made as a kind of depot, in which things
are kept for the Rajah's use, and also his occasional
hunting residence. Here we found three good cots in one
tent, three writing tables in another, a set of dining tables,
chairs, &c., in a third, and we were accompanied by at least
one thousand Sepoys, match-lock-men, and ]3ike-men, be-
sides two of the Rajah's eunuchs, with three of his fowling
pieces, three palanquins, three horses, and three elephants ;
in addition to which we met about one thousand match-
lock men near the place, waiting our arrival. We had

344 MILITARY [A.D.

scarcely retired to rest, after eating a hearty dinner, before
Lieutenant Pridham also joined us from Miirekerah,
with another cot, &c. ; this officer and Lieutenant Davies
having followed us from Mysore, with a letter from
Mr. Cole.

" On the 21st of October, after breakfast, we mounted
our elephants, at seven, A. M., and proceeded over nullahs,
swamps, hills, &c. about five miles further, where we found
our trees prepared, and all the jungle beset by some thou-
sands of beaters ; when we forthwith climbed our respective
ladders, to wicker litters, in the centre of a deep jungle,
called Chaondy Kaudh. After three hours' beating, we
collected our game within shot of our post, and marched
home with eight elks, a monkey, squirrel, and jungle fowl.
Of the former, I killed three. Lieutenant Pridham two,
and Lieutenants Meredith and Davies, one each. The
Peons killed one, besides lesser game. Our eunuchs and
Rajah's people would not permit any of us to quit our
places of safety ere the whole was over, and told us it
would cost them their lives if any accident happened to us.
We were, therefore, literally state prisoners, pro tempore.
Not one of the elks could be carried by fewer than six
men, and they generally took twelve and fourteen, after
being tied to bamboos for that purpose. We therefore cut
no small figure, with our game following, on our return to
Cuggore, where we found a capital English tiffin waiting
for us. The horns of one of the elks being nearly a yard
long, with several branches, and extremely heavy ; we
naturally concluded that the beast who could carry them,
without inconvenience, must have been very thick headed.

1812.] REMINISCENCES. 345

Lieutenant Pridhani left us after the hunt, and we had a
heavy shower of rain in the evening,

" On the 22nd we set out a little after six, A.M.; it
was impossible to tell the direction, but through rivers,
jungles, Sec. ; and latterly, ascending a steep and very
high mountain, covered with wood, our elephants groping
and kneeling, while our empty palanquins could not even
be carried up from the bottom, we gained a beautiful plain
on the summit, covered with trees and deep jungle all
round it; the distance about eight miles: it is called
Perumboo Kand, on a range designated

PUNNYMAUT KOONDOO;
And here, at nine, A. M., we set to work in the old way. I
saw six elks, and fired at three ; Lieutenants Davies and
Meredith saw only three, the former did not fire, the latter
fired twice. My three were positively wounded, and being
traced by the blood, were followed and secured. Being an
old sportsman, I always shoot with my own gun, and with
balls double the size of the bore, beaten into plugs, which
T call langrage, and the plug thus fired will kill any thing,
while it generally remains a positive proof to whom the
game belongs. Here we took our tiffin, notwithstanding
the difficulty of bringing things up, and walked down the
mountain in about one quarter of the time our elephants
took to ascend it. We had heavy rain on our return, but
were well sheltered by umbrellas ; so attentive to our every
want were these people. Lieutenant Davies left us here.
We returned to our tents early in the evening, and while
at dinuQi- the people brought in a monster, with one of my

346 MILITARY [A.D.

balls in him, so large that he required fourteen men to
carry him, or rather, that number could barely lift him off
the ground. His horns were not so large as those of
yesterday. They have since brought in two more ; and I
am told an immense fellow, with a smaller, are in the rear,
so that all our shots have told. Still we were disappointed
with this day's sport ; but our trusty followers promised to
show us more on the morrow. At midnight the large elk was
brought in by fifty men. I never saw so immense an animal
of the kind in my life, and I got his horns as my perquisite.
The people here eat elks, and say they are excellent.

" On the 23rd we started at half-past six. I have re-
marked that all the Coorg pike-men, instead of trailing or
sloping their pike, when they come to trees and other
obstacles, always carry it in the left hand, and advancing
the right to support it, ' charge pikes,' and push on. This
is evidently discipline, and may be taught for their own
safety, in advancing among wild beasts. We passed the
mountain we were on yesterday, and dismounting at the
bottom of one a mile further, ascended on foot to the
summit. Our sport did not commence till eleven, A.M.,
the jungle being amazingly thick and game rather scarce.
I fired and wounded an elk, which Meredith killed, and
I killed a junglee buckrah, or wood goat, with a single ball,
while running hke the wind ; it was a very curious animal,
with a body the same colour and size of a deer, having
exceedingly short legs, and therefore it's swiftness must
proceed from the length and strength of it's body ; it had
short branching antlers, and was so extraordinary an
animal altogether, that I preserved the head and antlers on

1812.] REMINISCENCIiS. 347

it, till Lady Hood, passing through Bangalore, collecting
curiosities, I gave it to her. It was the only animal of the
kind, I ever saw in my life. The Peons also killed two
elks at this place, and we left off to tiffin, at half-past one ;
at three we commenced on our return, and at half-past
four, P. M., four miles nearer home, again took our quiet
stations and set to work : until nearly dusk, however, we
had no sport, when two large elks, a male and female,
came running by ; we both fired, and each brought down
one, making two capital shots. The Sepoys also fired,
and killed two more. A panther was started, but he
escaped, from the density of the jungle. We got into our
palanquins at sunset, and having moved in great state,
with every one of our three thousand attendants carrying
a lighted fire-stick, arrived at our pavilion at half-past
eight, P. M., actually illuminating all the country through
which we passed. Our total game killed this day, was one
wild hog, seven elks, and one junglee buckree. It matters
not to what distance we ramble, the Rajah's attention and
kindness extend all over his dominions. We never sit
down to a meal, but in pops a large basket of fruit, or
some sweetmeats from his own table, and his people are the
most orderly, obliging, willing creatures I have ever met in
my life. And all this without the slightest hope of reward ;
which in general will go a great way with the natives of
India; but these people reject with apparent horror,
every proffered present, even when alone. There is cer-
tainly something very uncommon, indeed, unfathomable,
in this.

" On the 24th of October we tried another spot, a little

348 MILITARY [A.D.

out of our way back to Marekherah, but had no sport ;
killing one elk only, and returned home in the evening.
I have observed, that every square league, or mile, occa-
sionally, is marked out into a kind of fortification • having
a high bank, deep ditch, hedge, and barrier. This renders
the country extremely strong in a military point of view,
every man being a good marksman, and famous for sport-
ing ; because two thousand men can do more, in such en-
closures, than ten, or even twenty thousand, in equally
thick jungle, without these advantages. I remarked, also,
this evening, from my bed-room window, an immense con-
course of people, seemingly labourers, winding through a
distant road, and mentioning the circumstance at dinner,
I observed it threw a damp on the countenances of the
attendants, amongst whom, in spite of all my entreaties to
the contrary, I saw the native officer of our honorary
guard. No one would satisfy my curiosity. I therefore
changed the subject, and speaking to my old friend the
butler, asked him how he came to be so sickly since I last
saw him, and what had become of four fat Bengalees, who
amused me with their civilities when I was last there ? A
part of their duty being to run after us, if we only went
into the garden for a moment ; one carrying a chair,
another a jugiet of water, a third a bottle and tumbler;
as if an European could not exist a minute without such
accompaniments. He turned pale, and trembled ; told
me he had had a fever, but was now better, and that the
other men were gone away. I rallied him on his grave
appearance, and enquired if he was not happy. He im-
mediately rephed, " Happy ! he must be happy in such a

1812.] REMINISCENCES. 349

service ; that every one, under the Maha Swfimce, en-
joyed happiness." I immediately launched forth in his
praise, and I observed this gave Mahomed pleasure ; little
did I dream, that every word he or I uttered, would be in-
stantly repeated to the Rajah; yet, fortunately, every
thing I then had to say, was favourable. On retiring to
rest, and sitting down to bring up my Journal, the occur-
rences of the day passing in review, I began to ruminate
particularly on the workmen I had seen, and all the repairs
I had witnessed in the fort and barriers. It immediately
struck me that the Rajah, mistaking a late prohibition of
Europeans passing through his country, issued in conse-
quence of the gross misconduct of two officers, both since
dismissed from the King's and Company's service, had
imagined the British were going to declare war against
him, and was consequently fortifying his country ; and I
supposed the work-people were employed on some strong
place in the neighbourhood. Having obtained special
permission for myself and companions, I therefore deter-
mined that I would immediately undeceive him, as an act
of kindness to both parties.

" Rising very early on the 25th, we took a quiet walk
in the garden, and returning up stairs, were followed by
Mahomed Sahib, the butler, who entreated to speak with
me in private, and to request Lieutenant Meredith to
remain in the veranda, to prevent any one from listening.
This we acquiesced in ; and no sooner were we alone in
the bed-chamber, than he threw himself at my feet, and
entreated me, by the memory of his old master, to save

350 MILITARY [A.D.

his life. I was perfectly thunderstruck ; raised him up,
and desired him to explain himself ; when he told me a
tale which harrowed my soul. The four Bengalees, whom
I had left fat and happy, had become dissatisfied with
promises, and wages protracted and never paid ; they had
demanded their dismissal, and had, in consequence, been
inhumanly murdered. He himself had applied for leave,
and was immediately mulcted of all he had, and his
thumbs squeezed in screws, made on purpose, and used in
native courts ; his body flagellated, and a threat held out,
that the next offence would be punished with death. That
the Rajah being acknowledged as the God of the country,
exercised the supposed right without remorse and without
controul. That, for instance, if a poor fellow, standing in
his presence, with both hands joined in adoration as of
the Supreme, incessantly calling out Maha Swamee ! or
Great God ! should be suddenly bit by a musquito, and
loosen his hands to scratch ; a sign, too well known, would
instantly be made by this soi-disant Deity, and the poor
wretch be a head shorter in a twinkling. This, he told
me, had been the fate of the fine-looking Parsee inter-
preter, whom I had seen at my last visit, who, having
built a house, and amassed some wealth, was beheaded,
and his property seized for the state ; and this, he also
assured me, was the fate of every man who entered the
country, if he ever attempted to quit it again : and the
Rajah, admitting his troops to a share in the plunder,
bound them to his interests by chains of adamant. He
entreated me to take him with me out of the country.

1812.] REMINISCENCES. 351

which, he said, could be easily accomplished, because he
must accompany me to the barrier ; but I could not listen
to such a proposal, and at once told him so. To connive
at the escape of one of the Rajah's servants, while I was
his guest, would have been a direct breach of hospitality,
which I could not consent to practice. But learning on
some further conversation, that the native officer, under
the appearance of an honorary guard, was placed there as
a spy, over every word and action of every gentleman who
lived in that palace ; I proposed to enter into such conver-
sation with him, in Hindoostanee, as being reported,
might induce the Rajah to grant him leave. He also told
me, that the Rajah fearing some attack from the English,
was J^ilding new forts, and repairing all the old ones, and
then retired, I believe, unobserved. The signal being
made for breakfast, we sat down, attended as usual. I
entered into conversation with Mahomed Sahib, talked of
his mistress now at Madras, and his late master's will, and
asked him if he had received the thousand pagoda legacy
his master had left him ? he replied, it was the first he had
heard of it. I had, however, actually heard something of
the kind, and advised him to get four months' leave of ab-
sence, to go and see his old mistress, before she embarked
for England. He told me, he certainly should like to go
and see her, but he could not bear to leave so good, so
kind a master as the Maha Swamee ; to which I replied,
that I was sure the Rajah would allow him to go with plea-
sure, and said, I would immediately ask his highness : but
he begged me not, as he was sure the Rajah would allow hira

352 MILITARY [A.D.

to go, if it were really for his advantage ; here the conversa-
tion dropped, and being reported, it had a capital effect.

This forenoon we took our leave of the Rajah, who
received us in his palace, where he was amusing himself
shooting blunt, but very heavy headed arrows, at different
men, armed with spear and shield ; whose business was to
guard themselves, and receive the blow on their shields.
He afterwards fired at marks, rode several horses in a
ring ; and lastly, managed two elephants, one of which
he requested me to mount, and drove me about for a short
time, and then dismounted. I had been informed, that in
consequence of my increased rank, since I was last there,
he had prepared an elephant as a present. I then ima-
gined this was the one, but I was mistaken. He gave
Meredith a bird's head, called MaUiarapah, a .gold-
mounted Coorg knife, and sandal-wood stick ; and to me,
two spears, a gold-mounted knife, sandal-stick, and bird's
head, and wished us a pleasant journey. With all this
kindness, I could not help remarking, that his Highness
had lost some of his affability, so easily are we led by
circumstances, or by previous opinion, to fancy what,
perhaps, has no existence. His conduct to us throughout
had been kind and condescending, beyond that of any
native Prince I ever knew, and was never equalled, in
after times, but by the Rajah of Nepaunee. He was par-
ticularly fond of the flower of the Calderah, called in Hin-
doostanee, Kewrah, the odour of which is generally too
strong for English organs, but sweet beyond any flower in
the East. No man in his dominions dare use it, all

1812.] REMINISCENCKS. 353

being the property of the Maha Swamee ; as the finest
flowers of their gardens are appropriated solely to the
decoration of their temples, by all the other natives of
India."

The sequel may as well be anticipated here, to connect
the whole in one. A few months after, when in my own
house at Bangalore, I was surprised by the sudden appear-
ance of Mahomed Sahib, extremely emaciated, ill-dressed,
and with a picture in his hand. He threw himself at my
feet, and told me I had saved his life, that the Rajah had
given him four months' leave, and desired him to carry his
picture to me, in proof thereof. I refused it, however,
when he told me he had returned a beggar, being stripped
of every thing at the last barrier ; but that he never would
return. I saw him in a good place, shortly afterwards,
well and happy. The Rajah, Lingrajunder Wadeer, died in
the year 1820, and was succeeded on the Musnud by his
son, whom I had seen an infant in 1810. I have heard
of no cruelties committed by the present Maha Swamee,
who is described as a mild, inoffensive young man. The
English have had, however, little or no intercourse with
that country, since 1811, a road being opened through
Wynaud to the Malabar coast, and a capital ghaut made
by our own pioneers. I have omitted to mention, that as
this country abounds with royal tigers, it is absolutely
necessary that they should be hunted every season, and
the former Rajah seldom killed fewer than there were
days in the year; and invariably gave a gold bangle to
the first man who should touch the tiger after he had
fired, which must make brave soldiers.

VOL. I. A A

3,54

MILITARY REMINISCENCES.

Having, in it's proper place, omitted to mention the
celebrated Scindiah's state seal, I now subjoin the copy
of an impression of it, as affixed to his official papers,
treaties, &c., and containing, in the blended languages of
Persia and Mahrattah, his assumed titles of Comptroller
of the Emperor of Delhi and the Peishwa.

^Iscii^jLil^^lt

^JJ^J

uJ^cC^^yif^'

STATE SEAL OF DOULUT ROW SCINDIAH BAHANDOOR.

EKD OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

Littlewood aud Co. Printers, Old tbiley.