Full text of "Military reminiscences : extracted from a journal of nearly forty years' active service in the East Indies"

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Darlington Memorial Library

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MILITARY
REMINISCENCES.

VOL. 11.

Enj:;rOT«a"b^r^a.t -^

Putlisliea "bv Smitti,-Eldfiv fc C? 66.C01-E

MILITARY REMINISCENCES;

:XTI!ACrF.I) FUOM

A JOURNAL

H^^t

OF NEARLY

FORTY YEARS' ACTIVE SERVICE

IN TIIK

EAST INDIES.

BY COLONEL JAMES WELSH,

01- THE MADRAS ESTABLISHMENT.

The battles, sieges, fortunes, I have pass'd,
K'en from my boyish days."

VOL. II.

SECOND EDITION.

LONDON:

SMITH, ELDER, AND CO., CORNHILL.

MDCCCXXX.

LiUleuooil ami Co., Printers, Old Bailey.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Violent Hurricane at Madras — Bangalore — WynauJ — The mira-
culous Sword at Walliuit — Mysore — Cannanore — Tellicherry

— Singular Accident at Sedaseer ----_. i

CHAPTER II.

Ceremony of Walking through Fire at Bangalore — Poonganoor —
Arcot — Legend of Pennacondah — The Periah Ghaut — Malabar
Boats — Ramnad — Puniany — Jews of Muttuncherry - - 49

CHAPTER III.

Alepie — Quilon — Indian Castes at Malabar — Prince of Wales's
Island — Amie's Mill — Malacca — China — The River Tigris

— Canton ___ _ . ~ . . qq

CHAPTER IV.

College at Malacca — Trevanderam — The Ranee — Anjengo —
Tannah — Goa — Mangalore — Destructive Hurricane at Madras

— The Malabar Coast — Vellore - - - -141

CHAPTE.R V.

Route to Travancore — The Tapoor Pass — Sank rydroog — The
Coimbatoor Country — Paulgacherry — Extraordinary Murder
at Quilon — Yethmanoor — Trichoor . - 183

VOL. II. a

VI CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VI.

Cotyam — Manaracaud • — Trevanderam — Bhurtpoor — Route to
Belgaum — Kalbudgee — Bylehoongul — Kotabangee — Sir
Tliomas Munro • — Yenklemurradee — Colapoor - _ _ 224

CHAPTER VII.

Forts of Punallaghur and Powenghur — Kaganooly — Nepaunee —
Belgaum — Death of Lieutenant Colonel Place — Kittoor —
Route of Inspection in the Mahrattah Country — Hulkee —
Kolam Sholapoor - - - - - - - -271

CHAPTER VIII.

Ruins of Bejapoor — The Ooplee Boorj — Nasirguee — Belgaum
Nepaunee — Darwar — Cape of Good Hope — Constantia —
Conclusion - _-_.-.__ 309

ERRATA.

Page 2, line 25, for surface, read surf.

— 46, — 21, insert a between been and Native.

— 48, — 7, dele and from the commencement of the last

sentence.

— 48, — 14, for elephant is, read falls.

— 108, — 2, for mutual read martial.

— 217, — W, after house, insert near.

LIST OF PLATES

TO TIIR SKCOND VOLUMK

No. Page.

43 Frontispiece, a Chinese Pagoda.

44 Vignette on Title Page, a Group of Madras Native Sol-

diers.

45 An old-fashioned Tellicherry Chair 39

46 A new Ditto Ditto 40

47 Front of a Pandawar's House 55

48 Plan of Pennacondah 56

49 Mr. Baber's House at Tellicherry 70

50 A Pattamar and Fishing Stake 75

5 1 A Battoelah and Munjoo 76

52 An Arab Dingey and Dowe 77

53 A Canoe and Doney 78

54 A Moplah Mosque at Koelandy 81

55 Canarahmenoen's House 83

56 Canarahmenoen's Boat 85

57 Moplah Mosque at Puniany 88

58 Fort of Cornwallis on Prince of Wales's Island 112

59 Chinese Feat of Strength 1 36

60 The Antelope and other Boats 151

61 Residence of Stephen Babington, Esq 156

62 Fort of Tannah 159

3 Banian Tree and Flagstaft" 222

Vlll LIST OF PLATES.

No. Page.

64 Rev. Mr. Fenn's House 225

65 College at Cotyam 226

66 Syrian Cathedral and Metropolitan's House 229

67 Plan of Lord Lake's unsuccessful Attack on Bhurtpoor,

A.D. 1804 238

68 Plan of Lord Combermere's Attack on Bhurtpoor, 1826. 240

69 Plan of the Fort of Belgaum 250

70 View of ditto 252

71 Colonel Welsh's House at ditto 256

72 Fort of Yenklemurradee 262

73 Ground Plan of ditto 265

74 Plan of Kolapoor 268

75 Hill Fort of Punalla 271

76 Hill Fort of Powenghur 272

77 Southern Gateway of Powenghur 274

78 Bird's-eye View of Punalla and Powenghur 276

79 Plan of Punalla and Powenghur 276

80 South-eastern Bastion of the Fort of Punalla 278

81 Plan and Section of the Citadel of Nepaunee 285

82 Plan of Kittoor 297

83 The Joomah Musjeed at]Bejapoor 309

84 The Mausoleum, or Gomeze of Sooltaun Mahmoud. . . . 312

85 Section Plan of Ditto 312

86 Ground Plan of the Joomah Musjeed at Bejapoor 313

87 Roza Ibraum Adil Shah 314

88 The Moolk e Maidan. 317

89 Malabar Gun at Bejapoor 320

90 Ooplee Boorj 320

91 A young Alligator 347

MILITARY REMINISCENCES.

CHAPTER I.

Violent llurvicauc al Miidrus — Buiii^dkur — Wipuiud — Tlic wii-tt-
cn/oits Sxmrd at Walladt — Mi/so7-c — Camuinorc — TvUiclirrni —
Singular Accident at Scdasccr.

IMADRAS.
Shoktly after our return from my first excursion to
Coorg, I was ordered down to Madras, to give evidence in
a cause then pending before the Supreme Court; and
arriving there on the 28th of April 1811, I was Justin
time to see and take leave of many old friends, about to
sail on the expedition against Java. Amongst the rest,
Colonel Agnew, whom I was destined never to meet again
in this world. He had been one of my earliest and best
friends, and was a man of abilities, with a very warm
heart; carrying home the despatches of the conquest of
Java, he died shortly afterwards in England. Bv the
vol.. II. B

•:2 ' MILITARY [A.D.

great kindness of Providence, the expedition sailed on
the evening of the 30th of April ; for on the 1st of May,
the dawn was ushered in by an exceedingly heavy fall of
rain, which continued without intermission until five o'clock
the next morning. The wind, which was at first moderate,
gradually rose, and at ten, A.M., on the 2nd, had increased
to a perfect hurricane, which continued with unabated
fury for seventeen hours ; the last six, indeed, seldom
equalled in any part of the world : during which, houses
were upset, doors and windows blown off their hinges,
trees torn up by the roots, and streams were running with
great force in every direction. The sea forcing it's way
into both rivers, swept all before it ; two bridges could not
be discovered for two days afterwards, and the Mar-
melong one, having it's centre arch carried away, was im-
passable for a considerable time. The house I was living
in, with an old friend, Lieutenant-colonel Charles Trotter,
was nearly dismantled, and we had taken shelter in the
last room, when it abated.

After this faint outline of the damage sustained on shore,
I know not what words can picture the horrors of the
scene in the roads. Of all the ships, brigs, cutters,
ketches, donies, &c. only one solitary brig escaped, by put-
ting out to sea, at the commencement of the storm.
Many foundered at their anchors, for the surface rose as
far out as nine fathoms, others were literally torn to pieces,
and the rest dashed against the shore, in all directions.
The whole beach was covered with wrecks, from St. Thome
to the Custom House, a distance of nearly three miles ;
and so thickly were the fragments strewed, that it was with

181 1. J rka[inis(m:n(;f.s. 3

difficulty we could find our way through them, as soon as
the storm was over; yet, wonderful to rehite, tlie liand of
the Ahuighty was most shigularly extended over the crews
of His Majesty's fine frigate Davcr and store-ship Clii-
cliesU'v, and several other lilnglish ships which were totally
lost ; only two Europeans losing' their lives, of hundreds
exposed to the most imminent peril, and I believe, only a
few hundred natives perished, of thousands, whose floating
habitations were buried in the waters. One small English
brig totally dismasted, being of more than ordinary strength
in her hull, was washed high and dry upon the shore, with
her crew snug on board, cutting a most ludicrous figure in
the sands : but the most extraordinary sight witnessed
that evening, was a small French cartel brig, which re-
turned to the roads, with her colours flying from her only
remaining topmast, and thus, while at war with that nation,
the French flag was flying alone triumphant in those roads,
that had contained at least one hundred English the day
before. These are the wonderful ways of Providence ;
and poor silly man, forgetting both his terrors and his pro-
mises the moment they are over, considers them as mere
matters of course.

After one of the most severe visitations that this settle-
ment had ever experienced, I could not disguise my
astonishment at the apparent total absence of all those
feelings which amend the heart, and at the almost instan-
taneous oblivion, thrown on such an occurrence as a
hurricane, which had deprived hundreds of our fellow-
creatures of their lives, perhaps when least pre|)ared for
their dread account : had swailowcil up fhc pro]jerty.
n 2

4 MILITARY [A.D.

and destroyed the [jrospects of many hundreds more, and
even given a dreadful shock to the maritime trade of the
settlement. I did not hear of any public means proposed
to alleviate the sufferings of the wretched victims, nor was
there any allusion to the storm in the prayers at Divjne
Service, only three days after it's occurrence. My old
friend, Colonel Charles Trotter, one of the most religious,
benevolent, and liberal-minded men I ever had the happi-
ness to know, has long since gone to meet the reward of a
life spent in the fear and service of his Maker ; he died in
command of the Tinnevelly district, in 1819.

BANGALORE.
Returning to this station, I remained inactive, and
nothing occurred worth noticing until the 7th of October,
when the Rajah of Mysore paid us a visit for the races,
accompanied by the Honourable A. Cole and his staff. He
passed down a street formed by the two cavalry regiments
on one side, and five of infantry on the other, while the
gallopers fired a royal salute. His Highness was accom-
panied by four thousand regular infantry, an immense
concourse of irregulars, and a very fine body of cavalry.
On the 14th, the Rajah honoured the races with his pre-
sence, and both ladies and gentlemen were separately
introduced to him by Mr. Cole, when each received an
apathetic shake of his cold paw. I have formerly men-
tioned this Prince as a most promising youth ; I much fear
he has now broken that promise, for, so far as outward
appearance goes, no two beings could be more different. I
watched his countenance when tlie ladies were introduced

^^^^•] Ri:mini.sci-;n(;ms. 5

to him, and vvlien our line bands struck up ; on wliich oc-
casion I uas truly disappointed, not to see the smallest
alteration in the dull monotony of his features. He is
now entering his nineteenth year, and was received with
every mark of respect and attention by all the great men
who accompanied him to the new stand, built on purpose
for his reception. He came in a beautiful Englisli car-
riage, drawn by four dun horses, and accompanied by a
body of pike-men clad in green. On the evening of the
loth he lield a durbar, or levee, in his Palace in the fort,
when he received ladies and gentlemen there in the same
coolmanner;and, after keeping us sitting in dull silence
for an hour, dismissed us all, with attar and betel. To
make up for this, however, he sent us a fine royal tiger to
be hunted on the race course. Mr. Cole, always the leader,
speared him four times, though scarcely drawing blood ;
after which Lieutenant Aubrey pinned him to the ground,
the pike entering the loose skin of his jowl while he lay
crouching under a small paddy bank; Captain Pepper
struck him next, and provoked him to rise and wrench the
first spear out ; he then staggered a short distance, and
took to a small tank, where several spears were fluncr at
him, and one thrown by Pepper pierced his ribs, and
actually drowned him. IMr. Cole, being well mounted
and a capital spear-man, was the only person who, for a
long time, dared to face him; and, weakened as he was, it
was no easy job to destroy him. A small rough dog be-
longing to Lieutenant Mercer never quitted the ticrer till
he was drowned, when a Sepoy volunteered to di\e and
t)rinn- him out. and aciuallv did so.

6 MILITARY [A.D,

The next day a couple of royal tigers were sent, when
Mr. Cole killed the first single-handed, though a large and
active one. The second, being a more knowing brute, im-
mediately gave chase to Major Russell, of our cavalry,
who was nearly overtaken by him, when two black men
ran in his way, one of whom he killed with a single bite,
and then retreated under the new race stand. Into this
place a woman and child had crept for safety, and as he
came in at one end, and laid hold of her cloth, she wisely
left it with him, and retreated with her infant uninjured.
As we could not contrive to lure him out again, I pistolled
him ; by breaking his back, and then dismounting, we
killed him with our spears. Whilst we were undecided,
however, as to his back being fairly broken, he seized a
square stone lying in front of him, and actually broke
several of his teeth upon it.

I shall not give any further notice of this, our favourite
amusement at Bangalore, but remark only that the pan-
thers, though smaller, were always fiercer and more active
than the royal tigers, and generally gave better sport.
Some anecdotes attending them might be amusing, but
they would extend my narrative to an unreasonable length.
Only one European was ever badly wounded in these
sports ; and we thus established the long contested fact,
that tigers might be speared by men on horseback.

A comet was visible during many months this year, and
I have some memoranda of it's appearance at different
times. Our Eastern astronomers did not appear to have
decided whether it was the one vvc had already seen in
May last^ or another ;, certainly it was far more con-

181'2.] RHMINlS(JLN(;b:S. 7

spicuous, and indeed the most distinct I had ever
seen.

On the 6th of November, the Rajah sent each lady in
the cantonment two fine shawls, and to each Native corps
five hundreil pagodas as a present. The Europeans also
got one tiiousand pagodas each regiment, which was an
acknowledgment to the ladies for their visit, and to the
troops for several parades and extra duties, to do him
honour.

On the 5th of February, 1812, the Commander-in-chief,
Sir Samuel Achmuty, returning a conqueror from Java,
arrived at Bangalore. At this time Major-general Taylor
was in command of the division, and Lieutenant-colonel
Adams, of his Majesty's 25th regiment, commanded the
cantonment. With both these officers I stood on such
high terms, that, contrary to a custom now general, they
did not interfere with the drill of my corps, but allowed
me to train it as a light infantry battalion. It was rather
hazardous at that time to introduce any new system, in
deviation from the established s/o?^; time of General Dundas,
the founder of English discipline ; but Sir Samuel Ach-
muty being just returned from actual and active service,
he consented to review the corps, and immediately esta-
blished four light infantry battalions. I mention this cir-
cumstance, because, as his Excellency graciously told me
on the jjarade, it was the origin of light corps in the Madras
army. My own corps, which was to be the first, was then
under orders for that grave of thousands, Seringapatam,
to which place we marched inniiediately after the review,
and iurivcd there on the 2lsl of I'ebruary.

8 MILITARY [A.D.

SERINGAPATAM
Was at this period commanded by Colonel Joseph Gulston
Hill. When we left Bangalore, no corps could be in
better health ; since we had not one man so ill, that he
could not walk every march ; and we had not been there
above twenty days before we had lost several men, and
had sixty-nine sick in the hospital. Three days after-
wards the number was increased to ninety-six ; two days
after to one hundred and twenty-five ; the daily increase
being, on an average, ten and eleven men ; the numbers
who died not being included. The Seringapatam fever
is the fatal complaint ; and I have remarked, that patients
early removed, even ten or twelve miles only, instantly
recover. I therefore obtained leave from Colonel Hill,
who commanded, to send every officer who was attacked
to the bungalow, at Mundium, for a few days ; and some
even found benefit by residing in a bungalow only four
miles ofF,on rising ground, close to Mr. Webb's monument.*
Mr. Scarman, the garrison surgeon, was very successful in
his practice ; but all his skill, added to that of the medical
gentlemen in the three regiments, then stationed there,
could not prevent relapses ; and it was really distressing
to see the corps out for parade, or brigade exercise. I have
noted down the numbers at a line field-day, on the 31st
of March :—

* A handsome token of respect to the memory of a great statesman,
erected by the Rajah, in compliment to Sir Barry Close, the oldest and
most intimate friend of the deceased; for Mr. Webb did not die in
Mysore.

1<S12.] RK.MINISCKNCKS. '9

His Majesty's 80th regiment, tliree hundred and lifty men.
1st battahon of the 3rd regiment, two hundred and thirty-
four.
1st battalion of the 13th regiment, two hundred and fifty.
Being a total of eight hundred and thirty-four men and
officers only, out of a brigade of nearly three
thousand.
On the 28th of March, old Poorniah, a ci-ckvant Minis-
ter of state, who most ably ruled the Mysore country for
many years, during the minority of the present Rajah,
being very aged and infirm, departed this life in the fort
of Seringapatam, where he had resided for many years,
with all his riches, in perfect retirement and security. He
left all his wealth, said to amount to ten crores of
pagodas, about four millions sterling, to his sons, also
resident in the fort ; a convincing proof of the entire
confidence reposed in the British Government by the
natives. They had a Hindoo native officer's guard over
the treasure during the father's illness, and for a few
days afterwards, till their rights were publicly acknow-
ledged ; and they gave every man of the guard a handsome
present when relieved. Colonel Hill and Poorniah were
old acquaintances ; and the Colonel was himself dying,
when Poorniah sent him word, " That he was going to
the land of his fathers." He sent back a reply, " That he
was also going the same road ;" and actually survived
him only a few days. An old and gallant soldier, devoted
to his profession, and a keen drill, he was the first man in
Fndia that used the pendulum ; and he had them, and
chain lines, ts.c., made for him at a considerable expense.

10 MILITARY [A.D.

In short, drill was his hobby, but there was no unkindness
with it ; and he died beloved and lamented by all who
knew him intimately.

On the 7th of April, a rebellion having broken out in
Wynaud, where only two companies of Sepoys were sta-
tioned, I was appointed by Major-general Wetherall to
command a light force, consisting of the light company
of His Majesty's 80th regiment, and four Native flank
companies, with some artillery and field-pieces ; and we
marched, for the purpose of relieving our detachment in
that country, first to Mysore, nine miles, where we en-
camped about a mile and a half from the Residency ; and
here our fourteen officers were most hospitably entertained
by the Honourable A. Cole, who assured me of every
assistance which the Mysore government could give ; and
a body of his Highness's troops, amounting to nearly five
thousand men, under a respectable nobleman, Himmutear
Cawn, the Buchshee of Mysore, was immediately placed
at my disposal. They had already reached the confines of
the country, and were waiting for orders.

Our next march was eleven miles to Chattenhully,
where, to our astonishment, we found a capital tent
pitched, and breakfast prepared for the whole of us, by
Mr. Cole's kindness. Here, receiving a letter from the
Nabob, Himmutear Cawn, informing me that no sup-
plies had yet been sent on to our small party at Manan-
toddy, I immediately made a forced march of forty-eight
miles, and reached the Nabob's camp next morning, in
low swampy ground, close to the Bowauly Nullah, which
separates the two countries, the bridge over which had

1812.J RK.MiNISCliNCKS. 11

been destroyed by the rebels. While waiting tor our men
to come up, we received intelligence of the post having
been relieved that day, by a force under Colonel Webber,
from Cannanore, accompanied by Mr. Baber, the Judge of
Tellicherry, whose authority also extended to Wynaud.
They had been opposed in the Coteaddy Pass, coming up
from Cannanore, and had Ca])tain Hunter and Lieu-
tenant Inverarity severely wounded, with seventeen or
eighteen men. We set out next morning, leaving our
guns with the Buchshee's force, but carrying on su})plies
in carts, Slc. After a very tedious and laborious march
of twelve miles, in which the line was suddenly assailed
by a flight of arrows from both sides of the road, by which
two soldiers and one Sepoy were wounded, and an English
dog killed, we reached Manantoddy at eight, P. M., with
a part of our force only ; and such was the thickness of the
jungle, that I was totally ignorant how the rear were
coming up. Applying, therefore, to Colonel Webber, for
some fresh men and officers, I returned with Captain
Pepper and this reinforcement, and reached our rear guard,
wliich had taken post six miles oif, at midnight ; where we
remained with them till day light, suffering much from
cold, hunger, and thirst, not being able to get even a little
water all night. As the day broke, we found ourselves
entirely masters of the field, with broken and upset carts and
baggage strewed in every direction. Some hours of rest,
though not of sleej), had ))repared our men for fresh exer-
tions, and all was snug at Manantoddy in tiic course of a
few hours.

12 MILITARY [A.D.

WYNAUD.
This country, very similar to Coorg, in features and re-
sources, is bounded by a range of Ghauts on the west and
south ; by the Coorcher Paad mountains, which separate
it from Coorg on the north, and by the Bowally Nullah,
and other minor streams, that run into the Cubbany river,
to the east. Independent of other materials, it's jungles
were at that time, thickened by myriads of enormous
bamboo bushes, which rendered it more difficult to pene-
trate, than any other I have ever seen ; nor could one see
ten yards in any direction. Since that period, I have
twice travelled the same road, and the first time saw all
the bamboos in blossom, a very uncommon sight, for they
are said to flower once only in every thirty years ; at my
next visit, the whole were dead, as it were spontaneously,
and the country consequently much improved in it's ap-
pearance. We had previously found it very unhealthy
from the same cause, as well as from our exposure to the
heavy fogs at night ; but now the officer commanding at
Manan toddy, has a substantial house to live in, and there
are capital barracks for all the men. The inhabitants of
this country had always been turbulent, and they had,
perhaps, some reason to be discontented ; a force under
Colonel Stephenson had been employed for many months
in quelling a former rebellion, and, being lulled into a mis-
taken security, we had removed all the troops excepting
two companies at the head quarter station, where Captain
James Tagg commanded. As far as I could judge, from a
hasty tour in different directions, there arc few villages ;

IS 12.] ri;minis('i:ncks. ]:]

tlie inhabitants possessing- tracts of land, with su})stantuil
houses, in the midst of their plantations, and the wliole
country, being- like Coorg, a succession of hill and dale,
every foot of which is capable of being strongly defended.

The post of jNIanantoddy had been well chosen, it be-
ing on the top of a moderate sized hill, clear of wood, and
commanding the high road on both sides. It has never
been deemed necessary to fortify it entirely, but a small
redoubt was made on the summit, and we left two field
pieces in it, on our return. From the causes formerly
mentioned, the prospect was much curtailed ; it is now
extensive and beautiful, beyond conception. Previous to
the breaking out of this rebellion, Captain Tagg had not
observed any particular indications of discontent, and was,
therefore, without any supplies on the hill : a good bazar,
and all the native huts being situated at the foot of
it. There was also another very woody hill on tlie
other side, completely commanding this bazar, which
he was one morning informed had been entirely plun-
dered; and, on going towards the corner of the hill, he
was shot at from the opposite side. He immediately
collected a small party ; and, dashing down, recovered
as much grain, &c., as he could, and sent it up the hill,
with all the Sepoys' families, who were in too exposed
a situation below. Returning to his post, he immediately
sent oft' the intelligence to Mysore, and Cannanore, and
prepared for resistance. The supplies they had, served
for a few days, when, running short, he had made up his
mind to force the enemy's nearest post on the neighbouring-
hill, and to follow them to some place, where he might

14 MILITARY [A.D.

find a store of grain. This was, however, rendered need-
less, by the timely arrival of Colonel Webber's force;
which we on the other side had never dreamed of. Having
all happily united under the Colonel's general command,
Himmutear Cawn, the Mysore General, was requested to
bring up the supplies he had collected on the frontier, and
plans for future operations were immediately concerted.

On the 14th of April three parties were formed, to scour
the jungle in different directions; one under Colonel
Webber, who was accompanied by Mr. Baber ; a second
under my command, and a third under Captain James,
an officer of my light detachment ; after an early breakfast,
we all set forward to the northward, in search of the enemy,
but could not fall in with them ; and after making a very
tedious circuit in deep jungle, and destroying the houses of
several chiefs, met on a small hill called Trichilary, near
a celebrated Pagoda; neither party having had greater
success than the other. Our day's work was twenty-two
miles.

On the 15th, two parties were formed, under Captain
James and myself, Mr. Baber accompanying mine. We saw
no more rebels in arms, but many of them came in to Mr.
Baber, who appeared to know every man in the country, and
pledged themselves to give up their leaders in six days, on
a promise of pardon to the rest. This part of the country
is strong, wild, and beautiful ; consisting of a number of
small hills, covered with jungle, and separated by narrow
valleys, in which there are neither rivers nor paddy fields.
Yesterday in particular, we passed through a narrow defile,
nearly a mile in length, in which we discovered trees of

1812. J RKMINISCENCF.S. 15

sucli enormous heip;ht and mao-nitude, that I am fearful of
mentioning ray ideas of their measurement, further, tlian
that some of them did not commence spreading from tlie
parent stem, until they had reached the licight of the top-
mast-head of a man of war ; the name of these trees is
Neer pani?n, the wood of which is not valuable, and the
Ay any, or wild jack, the tree from which the largest canoes
are made, as well as the best beams for building. We
encamped on the southern bank of the Pillasherum river,
near Orekody, and close to a ford, nine and a half miles
from Manantoddy.

On the 16th of April, Colonel Webber allowed me to
choose a party of officers and Sepoys, without Europeans,
who, deprived of their little comforts, could not stand the
fatigue and exposure, and to try what I could do in the
hunting way. Leaving, therefore, our artillery, Europeans,
and three of our flank companies at Manantoddy, with the
Colonel's party, and arming each officer, European and
Native, with an artillery fusil, and bayonet, we set out,
the officers being Captain Pepper, Lieutenants Tagg,
Williamson, and Meredith, with two hundred Sepoys from
both battalions of the 3rd, and a respectable native, re-
commended by Mr. Baber, who knew the country, and
had authority to secure supplies, &c. As we set off in the
evening, and had neither camp equipage nor baggage,
beyond absolute necessaries, we took post that night on a
high hill about eight miles and three quarters south from
Orekody, called Coominah, all the rest of the force, return-
ing at the same time to Manantoddy.

On the 17th, we set forward at nine o'clock, A. M., after

16 MILITARY [A.D.

a very heavy dew, which wet every thing through, and
rendered us all most uncomfortable; no tidings of the
rebels yet; and being in the evening close to a deep river,
said to be full of alhgators, we pitched our only little tent
on the bank, when a heavy fall of rain drove us to seek
shelter in some huts at a short distance; where, though
w^e had comfortable covering, we were forced to keep a
strict watch all night : the situation being very much ex-
posed, and completely commanded by a woody hill just
hanging over it.

On the morning of the 18th, we again set out at day-
light, having gained some intelligence of the insurgents,
during the night, halted to breakfast at Panawortahcottah,
an old fort, four miles distant, in which a company of
Bombay Sepoys and their officer, were murdered by the
Pyche Rajah, in former times ; proceeding again after
breakfast, we marched through a country, entirely impass-
able in the rains, consisting of dreary swamps and steep
hills, but not so much jungle as to the northward, and
reached a post called Poorakaudy, twelve miles further ;
where, intending to halt for a few hours, we had just ordered
tiffin, and the men were beginning to boil their rice, when
word was brought us that the rebels, in force, were in the
act of besieging another post. Leaving a small guard
with our servants and supplies, we pushed on again, at
such a rate, that in two hours and a half, we got over ten
miles, and reached the out-guards of the rebels, who fled
immediately. We pursued as hard as we could run, in
hopes of being in time to come on their main body, but
they were on the move when we reached the neighbour-

1812.] RKMINISCENCES. 17

hood of the post of Gunnypuddy Wuttum, or Sooltaiui
Battery, having been erected by Tippoo Sultan to awe
the people of that part of the country. A runnhig fight
ensued, and we soon perceived, that they had the best of
it in agility. On our return to the battery, we found they
had actually commenced fiHing up the ditch with bundles
of straw, whilst the garrison, having expended all their
ammunition, were silent spectators of the progress of a work,
which must, in a few hours, deprive them of their lives.
Their joy on seeing us may, therefore, be easier conceived,
than expressed. The enemy, fully aware of all our pre-
vious movements, had traced us to Panawortahcottah in
the morning, and concluded that it would take us at least
two days, to reach this place : all former forces acting in
this intricate country, having moved with camp equipage
and baggage at a rate of from seven to eight miles a day ;
whereas we had not even a horse amongst us ; but all
walked, carried our arms. Sec, and slept on the ground.

We found this a very well built redoubt, on a slight
eminence, commanding a small, but neat village, and
bazar ; with the main road passing right through it, and
well stored with grain and provisions. We had, therefore,
only to furnish the garrison with ammunition, to restore
matters in this quarter. We took a long ramble the next
day, in search of the rebels, but all in vain, since they had
dispersed, never to assemble in arms again, and we returned
the following morning to

rOORAKAUDY.
This is one of the most delightful sjiots I have ever

18 MILITARY [A.D.

seen in India ; having a very large up-stair honse, on the
sunmiit of a beautiful green hill, without trees or under-
wood, save one majestic banian, close to the house. It is
encircled by paddy ground, in which, to the north-west-
ward, winds a pretty little rivulet, with trees on both
banks ; all the surrounding hills being of the same de-
scription ; save here and there a clump of luxuriant bam-
boos, to add interest to the scene. They put us much in
mind of English country seats in summer, the bamboos
doing duty for laburnums, or weeping willows ; and we
found all kinds of game in abundance, excepting that of
which we were in pursuit. Here we enjoyed some rest
and refreshment ; and I learned that this had been an
officer's post, with a company, in former days. The rebels
had nearly destroyed it for iron, as they did the bridge at
Sangaloo, and every other bridge in the country ; making
arrow and spear heads from their spoil.

Here I had leisure to become better acquainted with the
native I have mentioned as our companion and guide on
this service ; but such a man requires a more than ordi-
nary notice.

KULPILLY CARANAKERA MENOEN,
One of the bravest, most intelligent, most indefatigable,
most liberal, and most honourable men, I ever knew in my
life, was a native of Malabar ; a Naire by birth and edu-
cation, but divested of all their prejudices, and retaining
their high spirit only, tempered with discretion and Chris-
tian charity. Much above the middle size, he was formed
for strength and activity, with a countenance bespeaking his

1<^12.] Hl'.MINlSCliNt'JiS. 19

intellioence and goodness of heart. At our first interview,
he appeared to me a rough manly fellow ; 1 Jiad then never
been on the Malabar coast, and knew nothing about it's
inhabitants; and on the night of the 17th, observing him
very active in conversing in Canarese with natives whom
he sent away, I suspected him of treachery, in Icadino- us
for shelter from the rain, into houses so situated for a sur-
prise : whilst my fatigued comrades were all enjoyin"- a
refreshing sleep, I, therefore, watched him narrowly durino-
the whole night, determining, on the first alarm, to put him
to death. A soldier at heart, though not by profession, he
had long been accustomed to such service, and had at-
tended Mr. Baber for years in similar wars, both on the
coast and in Wynaud. He was clad in the plainest garb ;
and, on the march, wore a brown cloth waistcoat, buttoned
over his angrekah, or white jacket, and had an English hunt-
ing cap on his head ; carrying a single-barrelled fowling-
piece over his shoulder, and a sword by his side. It was
not till the next morning, when we arrived at Panawortah-
cottah, that I found out the object of his solicitude the
night before, by seeing a quantity of grain, fruit, and
fowls, sufficient for our whole party, collected ready for our
arrival ; and taking me aside, he told me his scouts
had actually traced the enemy, and he hoped to lead us to
them that very day. This man no sooner opened his
mouth, than his countenance displayed that candour and
benevolence, which were the true inmates of his soul.
I have known him intimately in all situations for years
since that period, and have never had occasion to alter the
opinion then formed, of my friend Canai-ahnu'-noen, as
t 2

20 MILITARY [A.D.

he is generally called ; indeed I am proud to call such a
man my friend. Fortunately he talked the Hindoostanee
like a Moorman, as I was not conversant with Canarese,
or the INIalabar languiige of the western coast.

Arrived at Poorakaudy, he got further intelligence,
which he immediately imparted, and which deprived us of
the meal, all hands were anticipating. When we got up
with the enemy, he was the foremost man ; and I was
even annoyed at his always contriving to be in my front.
The fowling-piece he always carries, he took in action
from the Pyche Rajah, who, after he had discharged it at
him, and while struggling in his arms, intending to take
him prisoner only, was killed by one of our people, who
thought Canarahmenoen's life in danger. It had origin-
ally belonged to Captain Davidson, who was treacherously
slain by the Rajah at Panawortahcottah.

On the 20th of April, our party being refreshed, we set
out on a hunting excursion, in hopes of falling in with
some of the fugitives. Wc went first to Eertee Combah,
then to Cheengary, then round by Mootil, destroying the
habitation of a rebel chief, and returned to Poorakaudy
by two o'clock, P. M., without success. We were this
day close to a range of rugged mountains, to the south-
ward and westward, which I take to be the boundary, and
are none of them inhabited. All the Coormers, a par-
ticular caste of the natives, some of whom had, through
terror, joined the Coorchers, or rebel archers, having come
over to us, they paid their respects and returned to their
own farms. Captain James and a party under him hav-
ing joined us this evening, the next morning we left them

IS 12.1 HEMINISCEN(;i;S. 21

at three o'clock, and proceeded throuoh some thick jungle
till day-light, when, coming into a high road, we reached
Panawortahcottah, thirteen miles distant, about eight,
A. M. There we breakflisted, and then resumed our
march by a circuitous route, to a Pagoda on the bank of
the river, in hopes of seeing some of our noble friends, the
Coorchers. This Pagoda is of great antiquity, and the
river close to it is extremely deep and full of large fish,
which come and eat rice and crumbs out of people's hands.
After resting for a few minutes in this cool sequestered
jjlace, we resumed our march, and arrived at Manan-
toddv at two, P.^I., having walked thirty miles since
morning, through unfrequented paths and deep jungle.

On the 22nd of April, a chain of posts was established
to the south-eastward ; one at Panawortahcottah, under
Captain James, with Lieutenant Rehe and one hundred
men ; the second at Poorakaudy, under Captain Steven-
son, with Lieutenant Rule and fifty men ; the third under
Lieutenant Swayne, at Paukum, with fifty men; the
fourth at Moodramole, under Lieutenant Dawson, with
fifty men ; the fifth at Gunnypuddy Wuttum, with thirty
men under a Native officer. The whole under the general
command of Captain James ; the Colkars, or revenue
Sepoys, being sent to the northward, to hunt the fugitives
in every direction.

On the 23rd, all the European troops of His Majesty's
30th and 80th regiments, and our artillery, were ordered
back to Cannanore and Seringapatam.

On the 25th of April I marched in company with Mr.
Baber, and my new friend Canarahmcnoen ; having one

22 MILITARY [A.D.

hundred Sepoys, Captains Pepper and Stewart, and Lieu-
tenants Williamson, Fyfe, and Meredith with us.' We set
out at half-past three, and arrived at Mooderary, a small
village, at five, P. M., where, hearing no news of the
rebels, we put up for the night.

Being still in uncertainty, on the 26th we moved to a
post called Wallaat, six miles distant. In a deep jungle,
about two hundred yards to the northward of this house,
is a sacred Pagoda, the repository of a sword, said to be
two thousand years old, which is annually carried in pro-
cession by a Brahmin, down the Ghaut, to a Pagoda
called Tricheracoonah Chuttrum, where many thousands
of pilgrims assemble to behold it. We visited the spot,
and examined this ancient weapon, always exposed to the
weather in an open building, in a country where fogs, dew,
and rain, are continual. It certainly has a most antique
appearance, the hilt being of brass, extremely rudely
formed, and the blade a mere misshapen mass of old iron,
which has been broken and rudely mended near the point ;
or what should be the point, for it has none at present.
In such veneration is this relique held by the natives of
Wynaud, that it is left in this open spot in the jungle,
without guard, or any security but the superstition of the
people ; and they attribute such miracles to it, that the
ark of the Israelites was not held more holy. It's touch
is instant annihilation ; and even it's appearance, at cer-
tain times, is mortal. The Brahmin, who carries it down
annually, must not have even seen man or woman for five
days ; and any unfortunate wretch who happens to come
across him in his holy pilgrimage, drops down dead on the

1812. J RKMINISCLNCKS. 23

spot ! Stich is the tale which cunning has worked out of
ignorance and superstition, and such the veneration paid
by these weak wretches, to a dirty bit of old rusty iron. Not
so our Sepoys ; one of whom, a Rajah])Oot, volunteered to
bring the sacred sword out of the sanctuary, for us to look
at. He did so ; and, 1 need scarcely add, was none the
worse for his temerity. At ten o'clock we moved on in a
westerly direction, and halted at a good range of houses
on tlie brow of a hill, belonging to Chattoo, a Naire.
Whilst sitting at dinner, a party of Colkars arrived with
the head of Pooricawittle Canialary Cunnien, one of tlie
principal rebel chiefs, whom they had killed in the
jungle to the southward, but all his companions escaped.
The sight of this poor misguided mortal's head was any
thing but pleasing to me, and I think not much relished
by my companions ; it was, nevertheless, a rebel's head,
and the captors must be applauded.

At half-past eight, on the morning of the 27th, we again
started ; and, after passing over several woody hills, and
through a very deep defile of nearly two miles in length,
arrived at the Moplah village of Coniote, situated in an
open spot, near the range of Ghauts, leading to Telli-
cherry. The country we came over this day was wild and
cultivated alternately ; the hills being covered with forest
trees in jungle, and the valleys either marsh, or paddy
ground ; with houses occasionally scattered at the bases of
tlie hills. We also crossed a remarkable bridge, over a
deep running nullah, which could not be seen till we came
close upon it; when, being both narrow and ricketty, it
delayed us considerably. This was the only good village I

24 MILITARY [A.D.

had yet seen in this country ; the natives generally living
separately on their own estates, or farms, w^hich very cir-
cumstance appears to me likely to influence their public
conduct, and lead to that marauding system which they
prefer to a quiet domestic life. The Moplahs are a de-
generate race of Mussulmans, or I should rather say
Arabs, who, having long intermixed with the natives, have
engrafted the Hindoo superstitions on Mahomedan bigotry ;
and though industrious, are both worthless and despicable.
They very much resemble the Lubbies at Ceylon, praying
in Arabic, a language which even their priests do not under-
stand, and circumventing all who deal with them. Their
women, independent of being generally ill-favoured, are the
filthiest creatures in the East, wearing their under-garment
till it rots off their bodies. Here, gaining intelligence of the
body of insurgents of whom we were in pursuit, having
attacked a Jemadar's party of the 5th regiment this day,
in the Coteaddy Pass, six miles off, I detached Captain
Pepper and Lieutenant Meredith, with forty-five men, to
the top of the EUacherrum Pass, about two miles to the
west, whilst the rest of us proceeded by the old post of
Martelot, now destroyed, to the top of the Coteaddy,
where we encamped with two small private tents on the
top of a small eminence for the night; posting a small
guard in the road, and another half way, to keep up the
communication. At ten o'clock, P. M,, two shots were
fired at our sentries, which were immediately returned,
while we descended the hill as rapidly as we could with
the remainder of our men ; but all was quiet again in a
few minutes, and we were enveloped in a thick dense fog,

1812.] REMINISCENCES. 25

which wetted every thing through, and did not disperse
until eight o'clock the next morning. This is the most for-
midable enemy in Wynaud ; no tents can keep it out, and
those exposed to it seldom escape fever. Captain Pepper,
who had been joined last night by two officers and eighty
men from Manantoddy, was to go down the Ellacherrum
Pass this morning, and taking a circuit, to come up the
Coteaddy, driving the rebels into our teeth. But they
were too alert for us ; having watched the movements of
both parties last night, they had gone off in another direc-
tion before daylight. When the dense mist had cleared
away, and the sun shone forth with it's glorious blaze
upon us poor shivering mortals, there was disclosed tlie
grandest and most sublime landscape that the eye of
man could ever behold ; the view from the spot on which
we stood, embracing at once the sea, the whole coast
of Malabar, the intermediate land and water, and the
neighbouring lofty mountains, covered with impenetrable
forests. I do not remember to have ever in my life seen
so truly beautiful and interesting a prospect.

This Pass is many hundred yards higher than the
Guzzlehutty, and considerably steeper; the road is broad,
but uneven, and flanking parties could hardly be thrown
out in any direction : it is therefore completely defensible,
and so commanded in the different windings upward, that
a small party of resolute men might destroy an army.
The Rebel Coorchers, aware of this, yesterday attacked the
guard, and after killing and wounding several men, forced
them to retreat and take post at Montauna, some miles
below the Ghaut. In this spot we found the wild plan-

26 MILITARY [A.D.

tain, the tree of which is considerably larger than the
common one, the stem covered with thorns, the leaves
much larger and richer in appearance, and the fruit full of
black stones, not eatable.

Being under considerable uneasiness for the safety of
Captain Pepper and his party, we descended the Pass
in the middle of the day, when not gaining any in-
telligence either of them or the enemy, we returned to
the post of Martelot, three or four miles distant, and at
six, P. M. were joined by our friends, who had made a
most fatiguing march of nine hours, over hills on which
they could not even trace a foot-path, and through the
deepest jungle that men had ever passed, without seeing
anything of the enemy ; and we, therefore, now suspected
that the insurgents had fled to the Periah Pass, more to
the northward. This Martelot is a capital post on a bare
hill, which commands every thing within musquet range ;
but the vicinity of the Ghauts, and deep jungle, must
render it extremely unhealthy in the rainy season.

On the 29th of April, hearing from Captain James that
he had taken two rebel chiefs near his post, we determined
to return to Manantoddy, sixteen miles off, and reached it
at sunset. The rains setting in, we became very un-
healthy, and the game was now nearly up.

On the 1st of May, the head of Ramanumby was brought
in, and immediately recognized by Mr, Baber and Canarah-
menoen. It was also shewn to a fine lad, his son, who
had been captured with the family a few days previous.
Poor boy ! I felt for him ; but he bore it with great for-
titude, and in perfect silence. This Ramanumby, who

1812.] REMINISCENCES. 27

was betrayed by liis own people, by whom he was shot in
the neck with an arrow, was the most violent and deter-
mined rebel of the whole ; he attacked the guard in the
Coteaddy Pass on the 27th, but seeing our two parties the
same night, one at the Coteaddy, the other at the EUa-
cherrum Pass,, the hearts of his followers failed tliem, and
they dispersed ; and he was making his way to Coorg,
when he was betrayed, as already stated. The old stockade
and miserable buildings being pulled down, this post is in
future to be garrisoned by two hundred men, with two
guns.

Matters being so far adjusted, both forces commenced a
return to their respective quarters ; having lost many men
by fevers, and nearly all the officers laid up. Out of fourteen
who started with me, twelve were ill ; I had myself an
attack of liver complaint, and hardly one of my servants
lived to return with me to Bangalore. Here, on the 2nd
of May, I took leave of my old comrade, Colonel Webber,
and of my two newly acquired friends, Mr. Baber, and
Canarahmenoen, with whom I have been on terms of
intimacy ever since.

At day-light on the 2nd of May, I left Manantoddy,
with an escort of twenty-two men ; we met a large bear on
tlie road, but as I had not allowed the men to load before,
he got off whilst they were preparing to shoot him. We
also saw several jungle-fowl, and a tree just pulled across
the road by an elephant, who had been makmg a midnight
meal on it's branches. I breakfasted with Captain Moore,
whom I had left in the post at Sangaloo, on the Bowally
river, and, proceeding post from thence, after visiting the

28 MILITARY [A.D.

Nabob of Himmutear Cawn in his camp, now very sickly-
but about to be removed, arrived at the Residency, next
morning at seven o'clock, vi^here I breakfasted with the
Honourable A. Cole, and returned to Seringapatam in his
curricle ; having been away twenty-six days only, on a ser-
vice which we expected would employ us for six months.
At Seringapatam we found the fever raging more severely
than ever ; and out of eight companies of my own corps,
there were two hundred in hospital. After remaining up-
wards of a month without getting well, I obtained a sick
certificate, and proceeded to]Vundydroog,to try change of air
and relaxation from duty. Several of our officers who were
in Wynaud, died shortly afterwards ; and the casualties
amongst our men and their families were truly distressing.

NUNDYDROOG.

On the 3rd of June I obtained the Lieutenant-colonelcy,
but was put back in rank three different times after-
wards. We took possession of a house built by our
friend Captain S. M'Dowall, on the 24th of June, close
under Baynes' Hill, and about a mile from our first resi-
dence at Nundydroog. This house, being on high ground,
commands a view of the whole place, as well as of the
surrounding country, where the wind, blowing through the
Pass, sounds like Boreas on a winter's day in Scotland ;
the thermometer being seventy- four degrees at noon in a
room with glass windows, and when the air was admitted
for a few minutes it fell to sixty-nine degrees. We had
also very heavy showers of rain occasionally.

On the 28th of June a tiger took a walk to a village to

1812.] RKMlNISCliNCKS. 29

the northward, and carried off a cow and calf for liis
breakfast ; then, returning home over one of the neigh-
bouring hills, he met a bullock and a sheep, both of which
he purloined for his tiffin and dinner. A few such visitors,
with similar appetites, would soon create a famine in this
neiglibourhood. On the <Sth of August also, a tiger passing
through several droves of oxen and flocks of sheep, walked
coolly up, at mid-day, to a young lad, sitting with a do/en
other shepherds, and, seizing him by the head, carried him
off in his moutii, to the astonishment and consternation of
the beJiolders. I collected as many native sportsmen as
the place afforded, and tried to track him, but to no effect.
Perhaps, it was as well for some of us also, that heavy rain
coming on, we were fain to return home gameless. On
the 11th, two fingers and part of the skull of the poor lad
were found near the ghaut ; but no further traces of the
monster or his unfortunate prey.

During a residence of nearly two months in this de-
lightful spot, now deserted as a station, by taking abund-
ance of exercise, visiting all the hills, &c., in the neigh-
bourhood, my health was quite re-established ; and being-
called to Madras about the formation of four light corps, I
determined to pass through Ryacottah, and leave my
family at that station, where there would be less rain
and better accommodation during my absence. On the
27th of August, therefore, we arrived at the house of my
lamented friend, the late Lieutenant-colonel R. Strange,
distant from Nundydroog eighty-six miles.

At Ryacottah we found a considerable difference in

30 MILITARY [A.D.

climate ; that of Nundy being cooler, but this much pre-
ferred for it's uniformity. My corps was now designated
the Pallamcottah light infantry, and I was authorized to
select men and oflicers indiscriminately, from both bat-
talions of the regiment. Having the option to go on to
Madras, or direct to Cannanore, for the selection, I of
course preferred the first, that I might get my unfortunate
comrades sooner out of that Golgotha, Seringapatam.

On the 4th of September I arrived at Madras, and by
dint of constant applications, first for the order, and then for
the carrying it into immediate effect through the different
offices, had the delight to get my poor suffering children,
the Pallamcottah light infantry, removed from Serin-
gapatam; and the arming, clothing, &c., of the four light
corps being determined on, I left Madras again for Banga-
lore, our future station, and reached my own house in the
cantonment on the 21st of September ; where there had
been a good deal of rain all round, and it was very cool
and pleasant. In a few days I proceeded to bring the
corps in from Seringapatam, and returned with it on the
6th of October, having been absent nearly eight months,
during which time Vv'e had lost about four hundred men,
women, and children ; and brought back one hundred and
twenty sick, who, now recovering rapidly, were nearly all
out of hospital, within a month.

On the 14th of October, going to Canannore on duty, I
set out on horseback, in company with Lieutenant Mere-
dith ; stopped a couple of hours at Seringapatam, and
reached the Residency the same evening to dinner. In-

1812.] RKMINISCENCES. 31

tending a visit to the Coorg Rajah, our liorses and servants
were gone the direct road by Verajundrapett, to the Iliggiih
pass leading to Cannanore.

MYSORE.
On the loth, the Rajah held a Durbar in the evening, to
which being invited, we assembled at his Palace at eight,
P. M., and saw him receive nuzzers, or fealty offerings, of
one rupee each, from all the great men of his kingdom,
about one thousand. On being presented to him, he asked
if I was the Wj/naud Gentleman ; and when his uncle went
round to give attar to each of the Europeans, he sto])ped
at me, and smiling, made me a salam ; tlien, after he had
helped all the party, returned and emptied the remainder
over my clothes. The Rajah observing and laughing at
this manoeuvre, made me blush. I suppose it was an ac-
knowledgment of the civility and good understanding that
had subsisted between me and the Buchshee Himmutear
Cawn, during our recent short service together in Wynaud.
He then returned with two white shawls and sundry gold
dresses, with which the old man decked me out ; and also
gave Lieutenant Meredith two shawls, and the same to
three other officers, who had not been present on a late
occasion, when every body had received presents ; this
being his Highness's day to receive them from others.
Mr. Cole made him a most superb present, consisting of a
pearl necklace, with a rich diamond ornament suspended
from the centre ; a valuable sirpeish of diamonds and
emeralds, a diamond kulgie, shawls, &c. ; the whole value
I should suppose, ten thousand pagodas, or four thousand

32 MILITARY [A.D.

pounds sterling. About ten o'clock we took our leave,
when the Rajah said a few words to each of us, and
smiled very graciously. It is really astonishing to behold
the marked difference of his conduct towards Europeans
and Natives, with the former he is cheerful, affable, and
good humoured ; with the latter, always cold and stiff,
nor does he ever smile, till the Natives perform their part
of the ceremony, and he turns to the Europeans. This
must be policy and court etiquette.

On the 16th we were invited to the Palace at five, P.M.,
to see a royal tiger tormented to death. He was tall but
famished : shewed a great deal of activity at first, but soon
exhausted himself, by struggling to get through a netting,
made of strong ropes doubled and traced up to long poles,
well fastened in the ground. The scene altogether was
novel, and considerably diversified : but as to sport, there
was none. A few pariah-looking dogs, were let into the
square, who immediately ran and attacked the tiger.
One, in particular, laid hold of his paws several times,
while the others howled in concert; but he would not
deign to touch one of them. The Rajah at last sent a
message to me, to ask if I should like to shoot him with
arrows. I accepted the offer, and killed him with five or six,
though his skin was uncommonly tough ; when the dogs
fastened on the carcase, and mangled it very much. A
ridiculous scene now followed ; four elephants were brought
into the square much against their inclination, and danced
over the dead body. This dull exhibition was succeeded
by fireworks, which concluded the ceremony. The Ra-
jah's uncle again favoured me with an extra quantity of

1812.] REMINISCENCES. 33

attar, and we got liome to dinner at the Residency at
seven, P. M.

As I have mentioned tliat I was going on duty, it may
be as well to state here, that the men and officers of the
1st battalion to be exchanged, were on the march to Can-
nanore, and that our servants proceeding by regular stages
to where we overtook them post, we lost not a day by the
excursion. I have already related the after-particulars,
under the head of Coorg. *

On the morning of the 26th of October, we arrived at
Verajundrapet to breakfast, and set out again on elephants
through a road shaded the whole way by tall forest trees,
to the top of the Pass, called Higgirh, where there was an
insignificant village and barrier, about seven miles distant;
then descending the Pass, through the same delightful
avenue, to Stony river, eight miles further, we parted with
the elephants and Coorg attendants, who, even there,
refused all pecuniary recompense. This is the longest and
most rugged Pass I have yet seen in any direction, leading
into the Mysore country, it being hardly passable for
bullocks, and extremely difficult for elephants ; though the
eye is delighted the whole way with the wild and majestic
beauty of the scenery. A cataract, issuing from a stupen-
dous mountain at some distance on the right, occasionally
appearing, always adds to the enchantment of the scene,
by it's murmuring sound ; while every beauty which can
be conceived, or found in the rude garden of nature, is
here assembled, and the trees, in particular, unite ma-
jestic height with elegance of symmetry. We got one

* fide Volume I. pages 339 to 353.
VOL. II. D

34 MILITARY [A.D.

or two hasty views of the Malabar and Canara districts,
but a haze prevented our seeing them to much advantage.
From Stony river to Bitore is eight miles, in a very bad
stony road ; to Errokoor, thirteen miles further, a strong
built village ; to Corally, nine miles, across a deep river
and ferry, the road better, but not good ; and from thence,
nine miles, to

CANNANORE;
Where we arrived on our own horses, on the 27th of
October, and were most hospitably received by my friend.
Colonel Webber, whose corps I came to pick. I soon com-
pleted my drafts of officers and men, taking of the latter
only unexceptionable volunteers, of whom I found abund-
ance willing. Colonel Lockhart, of his Majesty's 30th regi-
ment, who then commanded the province, died a few years
after, a Major-general : of the most mild and unassuming
manners, with a piety which nothing earthly could impair,
he was esteemed and respected by all whose esteem and
respect were worth the having. The troops stationed at
Cannanore were his Majesty's 30th regiment, with the
2nd battalion of the 3rd, 2nd battalion of the 9th, and 1st
battahon of the 15th.

The fort is small, irregular, and ill-constructed, although
the site is well chosen ; and to remedy original defects, a
number of out-works have been since constructed, but, in
my opinion, of no avail ; because it is most assailable where
those works terminate, without the necessity of approaching
them. The walls are built of the soap-stone, peculiar to
this place ; in it's original state it is an orange-coloured

1812.] REMINISCENCES. 35

porous clay, found all along the coast, a few feet below the
surface ; being easily worked at first, it is cut into slabs,
the larger kind of which are two feet long, one foot broad,
and eight or nine inches thick, which, being merely taken
out and exposed to the weather, become capital stones
for the most durable buildings, as time only increases
their strength. United generally with light clay, it looks
very well, but does not so well stand the heavy rains which,
on this coast, fall from May till November ; though with
chunam, it not only looks beautiful, but lasts for centuries.
The old Governor's house in the fort is an excellent edifice,
and has been converted into an arsenal ; there are also some
good store and guard rooms in it, but it is not now inha-
bited, and only the daily guards reside there. The canton-
ment, though situated in a very airy, healthy spot, is most
irregularly laid out, and has an exceedingly uncouth ap-
pearance. The houses being very slightly built, and covered
with cocoa-nut mats, with roofs reaching down nearly to
the ground, look more like a parcel of rude huts scattered
over a plain, than the habitations of gentlemen ; yet some
of them are very comfortable within ; and those situated on
the sea face, are cool all the year round. No one who has
not been stationed on this coast in the south-west monsoon,
can conceive the necessity for spoiling the appearance of
the houses, and depriving them of a considerable share of
light ; but the rains, when driven by the winds, are fre-
quently almost horizontal, and the damp, even with this
unseemly precaution, penetrates every thing. There are
no regular lines for the officers of separate corps ; but all
are promiscuously huddled together in one part, and thinly
D 2

36 MILITARY [A.D.

scattered in others ; covering a surface of nearly four miles
in circumference. The places of arms for the Native corps
are on the interior or eastern face, and the European regi-
ment on the western. At this time the Europeans were
merely in temporary barracks, since which an elegant and
most comfortable barrack has been built, close to the cliff,
on the southern face, about a mile from the fort, and most
conspicuous from the offing. There is also a very good
bazar in the centre of the cantonment ; and the town of
Cannanore is about two miles off, to the southward, in
which there are a few shops for European articles. A small
harbour, entirely commanded by the fort, also lies to the
southward, and washes the wall on that face ; it is shallow,
and will not admit ships of any burthen, but is excellent
for all kinds of boats and country craft ; and in it the
soldiers bathe, although outside, all the coast is infested by
sharks in thousands. The tower is on the eastern shore of
this harbour, but the ground being very low there, the bold
cliff ending with the fort, even the largest houses are ex-
tremely hot and oppressive. In it resides the Beebee of
Cannanore, in a comfortable but old-fashioned mansion ;
and the principal trade of the place still belongs to this
Princess, who has several vessels, and yearly gives a free
passage in them to Mocha and Juddah, to numerous
Mussulman Pilgrims for Mecca ; who also return at her
cost. This lady is a Moplah, or Maupuljee, as they call
the females. I cannot vouch for her cleanliness, in regard
to the under garment ; but I can bear willing testimony to
her kindness and goodness of heart ; and she is a very
Christian in her conduct. She has built a capital sub-

1812.] REMINISCENCES. 37

stantial up-stair house on the sea-beach, but being divided
from the dirty town by a narrow street only, it is conse-
quently a very hot habitation ; and here she occasionally
gives entertainments to the ladies and gentlemen of the
station.

The town of Tellicherry is only about ten miles in a
direct line south from Cannanore, though, by the high road,
it is fourteen. There reside the Gentlemen of the Circuit
Court, the Judge of the Zillah, the Collector, and As-
sistants. There is a river and good ferry about half-way,
but no detention, as horses, and even carriages, go over on
the public raft, called a Jungar, which is formed of two or
three canoes, spread to a certain distance, and connected
together by strong beams, over which planks are nailed,
with a railing, or at least bars across, about three feet high ;
and these boats are perfectly safe in all weathers. Having
still a few leisure days, I visited Mr. Baber, at Tellicherry ;
and there became acquainted with his lady and family.
I also met my Wynaud friend, Canarahmenoen, who
was at that time employed as his Native Registrar. The
fort of

TELLICHERRY
Is upwards of one hundred years old • and from it's antique
appearance, I should have guessed it many more. Being
nearly a square, it consists of a very thin wall on three
sides, a common gate in the centre of each, and bastions
at the angles ; all low and perforated with looji-holes for
nmsquetry. A small eminence forms the fourth, or sea
face, with a citadel on the summit, and a long flight of

38 MILITARY [A.D.

steps leading to the gate. The situation is commanding ;
but these works would be formidable now, only to an enemy
without guns. In this citadel, there is still a capital
house, long inhabited by Eliza Draper, celebrated in the
lay-writings of two churchmen ; and also a high flag-staff,
from whence the view all round is both extensive and
beautiful. Mr. Baber's residence, at this time, was in the
fort, a neat and comfortable house ; and there were then
several other European houses inside, mostly inhabited,
but some fast going to decay, and others already in ruins.
It had been a place of consequence ; and contained a
considerable garrison some twenty or thirty years back.
The other gentlemen of the station resided in good houses,
built on separate hills, at considerable distances from each
other; the two outermost being six miles asunder. A
beautiful river, forming an island, and having two capital
wooden bridges across, runs into the sea, within a couple
of miles of the fort, to the northward ; and, winding about
in a south-easterly direction, is visible from all the gentle-
men's houses in different directions, and adds considerably
to the beauty of the prospect.

In the sea, but only separated by shallow water from the
main land, and about four miles to the northward of the
fort, is a remarkable spot, known by the appellation of the
" Green Island." It is very small, very steep, and com-
pletely covered with deep jungle ; and some goats having
been originally carried over and left there, they are now
perfectly wild ; and one, in particular, a large old white
ram, frequently appears standing on rocks surrounded with
green bushes, and gives an additional interest to the scene.

1812.] RKMlNlSflENCES. 39

While carriages and palanquins are the usual conveyances
of Europeans in other parts of India, the general one on
this coast, is a rude mis-shapen box, called a Tellicherry
Chair, of so awkward and unseemly a structure, that
I have given a sketch, tlie more fully to illustrate my
description.

A large arm-chair, so made as to have a square frame
over the head, is placed on an oblong platform, projecting
about two feet in front, to form a foot-board ; and from the
front of this platform, two upright supports are carried to
the frame above, over which is fixed an enormous mat
umbrella, without a handle ; and to finish the concern,
two thick bamboos, about seven feet long, are attached
horizontally on either side of the seat, for the purpose of
carrying. The rider of this veritable bone-setter gets in by
the front. The moekhurs, or muckwahs, as they are
generally called by Europeans, being the fishermen of this
coast, are the bearers; and four of them in regular service,
will carry a -person about the station, and do other little
jobs besides. They carry on their shoulders, and, in

MILITARY

[A.D.

changing with a preconcerted signal, they hft the chair
over their heads, and bring it down with a sudden jerk on
the opposite shoulder, the most, unpleasant and sea-sick-
ening motion I ever experienced ; and if one of them
stumble in going over stony or rough ground, the rider may
get a fall, easier imagined than described. Of late years,
however, this uncomfortable machine has been greatly im-
proved upon ; and the new one, particularly for ladies,
though it still retains the same name, has one pole instead
of two ; and, though not a quarter so heavy, somewhat re-
sembles a Bengal chair palanquin.

BALIAPATAM.
On the 3rd of November, I accompanied some gentlemen
from Cannanore to a favourite shooting retreat, called, by
the English, Billypittam, about five miles to the northward
of Cannanore. There we took possession of an upper-
roomed house, in very bad condition, but built of stone,
and well worthy of repair, commanding a view of a fine

1812.] REMINISCIiNCES. 41

broad and deep river, on the southern bank of which, and
about a mile from it's mouth, stands the village. After
shooting in the neiglibourhood, we went to visit an old
fort in ruins ; and scrambled into an upper-roomed house,
which, if repaired, would be a most desirable residence :
but, like the dog in the manger, there is a Nabob residing
in the neighbourhood, whose property it is, and who, as he
cannot repair it himself, will not allow any one else to do
so. This place has many attractions for officers of a gar-
rison ; a fine wild country, with good shooting, and good
boating, with abundance of alligators, both in the river
and in a stone tank on shore; though, wonderful to relate,
they are here harmless to bipeds, touching dogs and cattle
only ; and I actually saw some in the stone tank, near
several Native children who were innocently bathing close
to them. I shuddered when I beheld them ; and certainly
cannot help fearing, that, some day mistaking a child for a
calf, they will find it such good eating, that other parents
may rue their unheeding security. This very river, whose
first fall is in the mountains near the Higgirh Pass, and is
afterwards called Stony River, winds through a good deal
of country ; and, collecting minor streams in it's passage,
is swelled to a considerable size at this place. The best
shooting country is on the opposite side, where there is a
large swamp full of wild ducks, water-fowl, &.c.

MAKE.
Being detained here as a Member of a General Court
Martial, I had now more leisure to see a little of the sur-
rounding country, and consequently, accompanied Colonel

42 MILITARY [A.D,

Webber first, and afterwards Mr. and Mrs. Babcr, to pass
a day at the French settlement of Mahe, five miles beyond
TelHcherry. Passing south from Tellicherry, we first came
to the old fort of Mylan, or Moylan. Though built upon a
rock on the sea-shore, and now very old and entirely
abandoned, yet it once completely commanded the only
road,and is certainly judiciously chosen, and strong. A small
fishing town lies under it's brow, to the eastward ; and the
spot is altogether interesting. Crossing a rapid river in a
jungar, at the fifth mile, you land in Mahe, a place now
going fast to decay, but formerly one of singular strength,
beauty, and consequence. It is even now a lovely spot,
situated on the bank of a clear navigable river, close to
the sea, which forms a bar in sight of the town, and gra-
dually rising and embracing some strong heights, once
fortified, which command not only the passage across the
river, but all the surrounding country for a considerable
extent. The town still contains some good houses, but
few respectable inhabitants. We put up in an up-stair
house on the river side, belonging to a Moplah, called
Moosah Puckee, a man of immense fortune, said to
be worth at least eleven lacs of rupees. He is a great
merchant, and owner of much property in land, as well as
several ships. Another capital house, built on the landing-
place, belongs to an old French merchant, M. Dineure,
whom we visited ; he and another gentleman, M. Jussain,
being the only two respectable men left out of a once rich
and flourishing port. They were both very old and infirm,
but very agreeable companions; and joked each other,
with great good humour, about which should first pass

1812. J UEiMlNlSCKNCKS. 43

the gulf, then yawning to receive them. Having seen all
their old companions laid in the silent grave, they seemed
left for a little longer space, almost solely to point out to
strangers the spot where such an one resided ; where such
a building once stood ; and to tell how the English wan-
tonly destroyed the finest and most sacred edifices, as
well as the works of the place. For, setting aside the
mild and more recent precepts of the Divine Law, and
acting on the. lev tdlionis principle, because the French, on
the other coast, had destroyed both public and private
edifices in Madras, they not only pulled down the Go-
vernor's Palace, the ruins of which still tell what a mag-
nificent building it must have been, but also destroyed a
public School, and dismantled the Cinnch, an uncommonly
large one. I feel a glow on my cheek, while writing this
sentence, Protestant though I am : how must these men
have despised and execrated, in their hearts, the perpetra-
tors of such barbarous acts ! These gentlemen are both
since dead, and their mortal remains mingled witli the
dust of their former companions.

KUDROOR.
About four miles inland from Tcllicherry, on a very
fertile plain, lies the fortified factory of Kudroor, with a
fine stone tank outside, and a smaller one within the area.
It is nearly square, and raised many feet above the level of
the surrounding country, forming an airy and comfortable
up-stair house, with cannon-proof w^alls, and large square
windows ; the shutters of which, two inches thick, are
fixed at the bottom inside, by projecting pivots, let into

44 MILITARY [A.D.

the wall; and opening with strong folding legs, fixed
underneath, form each a very capital table. The ground
floor of this extensive building, is used in lieu of out-
houses, for cook-room, stores, &,c. Here we found the
ex-heir, or Yelleh Rajah of the Travancore country, raised
to the throne one day, and deposed the next. His case
was one of particular interest ; but being sent up to Ma-
labar, to be under Mr. Baber's surveillance, he found a
kind friend in his supposed gaoler. Above the common
size, and inclining to fatness, this young man appeared as
mild and sensible, as he was firm and uncomplaining, under
a reverse as severe as it was unmerited. We passed a very
pleasant day in his company ; searched the neighbouring
thickets for game without success, and then returned to
Cannanore, sixteen miles distant.

All our business being concluded ; on the 21st of De-
cember, I set out for Bangalore, in company with Lieu-
tenant Fyfe, one of my newly selected light bobs.* The
other officers and men having started some days earlier
through Wynaud, we ran post to Verajundrapet, and there
met the Rajah's elephants, &c., going the same road I have
already described to Seedaseer, on the eastern boundary of
the Coorg country. On the morning of the 23rd December
we joined our servants and baggage, at the bungalow close
to the barrier ; where we took up our abode for the day,
and in the evening went out on foot in search of game, in
a wild uncvdtivated spot, overgrown with deep jungle. I
had shot a couple of jungle-fowl in the morning, close to

* All Light infantry are called Light Bobs in tlie army.

1812.] REMINISCENCES. 45

the bungalow. We had not gone above a couple of niiU^s,
before we came to a large tulow, or lake, completely sur-
rounded by jungle, and dividing our party. Lieutenant Fyfc
wentto the left, and I to the right; when our followers seem-
ing averse to our proposal of finding the way round, in such
a wild s])ot, all the volunteers from the bungalow silently
left us. Being, however, well armed, and having suflicient
dayhght to get round, we felt the more inclined to pursue
our plan, as they shrank iVom the danger. I had just got
about a third part of the distance, and passed through a
thick ])art, full of the traces of elephants, when seeing an
opening leading down to the tank, and abundance of wild
fowl therein, I turned in and was walking fast to the
margin, when suddenly the ground gave way from under
me, and I was precipitated forward, till my head reached
the bottom of an elephant pit, twelve feet long, seven wide,
and twelve deep. This trap had been covered over with a
kind of bamboo mat, strewed with sand, to resemble the
rest of the ground ; and so great was the impetus by which
I was driven at the moment, that I not only pitched on my
head ten feet forward, but also carried the whole of the
roof along with me. I need scarcely observe, that in such
a fall, the ground must have been very soft, to admit of my
living to tell the tale : with a China straw hat, and luckily
two handkerchiefs in it, my head was literally buried in
the ground, and my double barrelled gun broken in my
right hand, the stock giving way at the bend. So unex-
pected and unusual an adventure, left me a few seconds in
doubt whether I was dead or alive ; but extricating my
head from the mud and sitting up, I found myself sound.

46 MILITARY [A.D.

though in rather an awkward berth. Two natives looking
down at me, and asking me " how I felt myself after my
descent," I was almost fearful of exerting my lungs, to
reply ; when they immediately unbound their waist-bands,
or cummerbunds, a long cloth which most natives wear
wrapped round their bodies, and tying the two together, let
them down for me to climb out by. But though uninjured, I
had received a shock much too severe to admit of the exer-
tion necessary to pull myself out of a perpendicular pit, with-
out any resting-place for my feet in the passage ; I therefore
waved my hand, and expecting some of my original fol-
lowers would be at hand to assist me, sat still in my den.
In a moment my two attendants disappeared, and shortly
afterwards I heard a dreadful crash; a silence of some
seconds ensued, and then deep groans and shrieks. I could
hardly persuade myself that this was not a dream, or that we
were not in fairy land ; at length, recovering my wandering
senses, I called out to my own servant by name ; the reply
solved the riddle, and left me in painful certainty : " Oh
Sir ! we have all fallen into another hole and are killed ! "
One would have thought the speaker had been native of the
Emerald Isle ; but he was a simple Rajahpoot, and though
he rather anticipated the crisis, his words were prophetic.
Supposing that there were several of them, the fable of the
fox and the goat immediately presented itself to my mind,
and I advised them to let one man climb upon the backs
of the rest, and get out, to assist the whole, when my man
undeceived me, by the pleasing intelligence that there were
only two of them who had followed me ; and all the rest
had gone off, when we entered the deep jungle. He

1812.] REIMINISC RNCRS. 47

added, " that they were both dying, and could not rise off
the ground." It was now high time for me to exert my
own energies. I got up and laid hold of the end of the
cummerbunds, which, having been left untied above, when
these two fellows were running together, to bring a kind
of ladder, they had discovered against a tree at a short
distance, it immediately came down into my pit. I then
tried, by making holes in the perpendicular bank, to get
some footing by which to climb up, but found the clay too
damp for my purpose. Then, taking up my broken gun, I
contrived to hold it, so as to fire off both barrels succes-
sively ; after which I continued shouting at intervals, until
Lieutenant Fyfe reached the neighbourhood, and, answering
my shout, I called out to him to beware, for the ground he
was treading was false and deceitful. We conversed in
this manner, till he had ascertained the state of affairs;
and one of his attendants, groping his way, got possession
of the rude ladder, the caiise of the misfortune of my two
attendants. It proved to be a long bamboo, with the
stumps of the branches left on all sides, about a foot long-
each, by which I was enabled to ascend ; but we had
rather a difficult job to extricate the other two, who could
not move hand or foot; and we were forced to tie the waist-
bands to them, and assist the lifting them out of the pit
from above. My Rajahpoot had his right shoulder dislo-
cated, and though we succeeded in setting it, and he was able
to crawl home, yet he died of fever a few days afterwards.
The other, a native of Coorg, had his back broken, and was
carried in by the Rajah's people. The measurement I
have mentioned was taken by Lieutenant Fyfe and me,

48 MILITARY [A.D.

before we left the spot ; for I at first thought the depth
twenty feet. After the detail of so very signal an escape,
I need not crave the reader's indulgence for the utterance
of that humble and lively gratitude to the Almighty, which
such an occasion undoubtedly demanded. The folly and
exposure to unnecessary danger were all my own ; the
mercy and the safety were from the Lord ; and His holy
name be praised !

On returning to the bungalow, I found that the identical
elephant I had rode that morning, was caught in the same
pit in which I had been a quondam inhabitant ; and that,
independent of other injuries, he had broken one of his
tusks off, close to the root, by the fall ; thereby proving to
those who might doubt the fact, that an elephant is some-
what heavier than a man.

On the 26th of December, we arrived at Bangalore : our
drafts from the second battalion, six officers and one hun-
dred and twenty men, had joined the corps previously ;
and here ends the year 1812.

1813.] RliWINISCENCES. 49

CHAPTER n.

Cercmoni/ of Wnlkbii:, t/irinn^/i Fire at Baii/^alorc — Voonfiannor — Arcol.
— Legend of Fcnuaconddh — T/ie Pcria/i Ohaut — Malaliar Boatx —
Ramnad — Puniany — Jews at Muttuncherrtj.

BANGALORE.
On the 12tli of March, 1813, being invited by the Hindoos
of our corps to see the ceremony of walking through the
fire, I mounted my horse, accompanied by Captain Pep-
per, and rode to the spot, in rear of the native lines, where
an oblong pit was prepared, eighteen feet by twelve. I am
not aware of it's depth, because on our arrival it was fidl
of live coals perfectly red hot. A procession then arrived on
the opposite side^, and every one of them either walked or
danced deliberately through the fire lengthways, having only
two landing-places in the centre of each of the smallest faces.
This fire was actually so intense that we could not ap-
proach it's margin, but sat on our horses at a few yards
distance, watching every motion. I had seen a little, and
heard much more, of this strange feat, but never had such
an opportunity of positive proof before. It was in the
middle of the Hooly Feast, and I understood the particular
ceremony was in honour of the small-pox deity, Mariamah,

VOL. II. E

50 MILITARY [A.D.

to whom they sacrifice a cock, before they venture into the
furnace. Then, besmeared all over with some yellow stuff,
they go back and forward, both quick and slow, without
any apparent suffering ; and one man carried an infant on
his shoulders, which did not even cry. The puppets of this
extraordinary shew were of all ages ; and I saw a very fine
boy slip down at the landing-place, and the others pulled
him up uninjured immediately. I have now stated the
fact from ocular demonstration ; it remains for chemists to
explore the nature of the stuff with which they are be-
smeared, for every Christian will at once attribute this
apparent miracle to the true cause, and give them due
credit for a very subtle trick. I never could get any Native
to explain this ; and I suspect that the Mussulmans, who
can have no interest in keeping up the deception, are quite
as ignorant of the means used as we are.

On the 29th of December, we experienced a pretty smart
shock of an earthquake, which was very general in it's
effects all over the cantonment ; it was accompanied by a
rumbling noise, like a gun-carriage going over a draw-
bridge, and appeared to come from the westward. Our
roof cracked as if a heavy stone had been thrown upon it,
and every part of the house shook for some seconds. Some
older and weaker buildings were actually shaken down,
and the walls of others separated or opened out. The
Natives call this phenomenon Huddettee ; and one at
Point de Galle, in 1797, was the most extraordmary and
unaccountable I ever experienced.

Having occasion to visit Madras at the beginning of the
next year, and returning by another Pass, called Mooghley

1814.] RE)MINISCKNCES. 51

Ghaut, I shall give some description of a strange sort of
mongrel Rajah, whom I went a few miles off the road to
see. As he is a gentleman who cuts a figure in the English
newspapers, occasionally aping every thing that Europeans
do, the birth of a child, a marriage in the family, or any
other domestic occurrence, which we generally announce to
the public, is inserted at full length, with the name of the
lady in the most ridiculous melange of Indian and European
titles and epithets. This appears the more outvt, because
no other lYative ever pronounces the name of his wife, and
seldom of any female of his family.

POONGANOOR.
On the 18th of January 1814, having passed through
Chittore and the Mooghly Ghaut, which I found much easier
than that at Pedanaig Durgum, I arrived at Poonganoor,
being forty-eight miles west of Chittore, and eighty-six east-
north-east from Bangalore. On alighting to enter the Rajah's
residence, which is in a common Native town, I was struck
with astonishment to find, instead of a Native Palace, an
ill-built, awkward, gaudy house, into the hall of which,
up one pair of stairs, I was ushered with great civility, by a
few well-dressed servants ; and here, while in expectation
of his Highness's appearance, I took a survey of the room
and it's furniture. It's size was thirty feet by ten, witli
four large doors, four large Venetian windows, and six
smaller ones, without order or symmetry ; the decorations,
nine common looking-glasses, thirteen pictures with frames,
and thirteen without; a camp-cot, a couch, twelve black-
wood chairs, a teak-wood writing-table, an easy chair upon
E 2

52 MILITARY [A.D.

castors, a wash-hand-stand, a tea-chest, a child's chair,
two shade-stands, and a broken morah or foot-stool ; the
whole being exactly what I should expect to find in the
house of a Portuguese writer. After sufficient time had
been given me to examine this rich and courtly drawing
room, a central door was opened ; and from behind a silken
curtain issued the dulcet notes of Lady Minachee Amah,
of Poonganoor, informing me, through an interrupter, as he
might well be called at such a season, that her Lord, the
puissant Rajah of Poonganoor, was obliged to go to some
distance on duty, but would be back next morning betimes,
and entreating me in the interim to consider the drawing
room, with all the fine things I have mentioned, my own ;
that his Highness would be much vexed, if I did not
remain; and she begged me to excuse her not having
welcomed me with a royal salute, because some of the
gunners were absent with her Lord. Much as I wished to
see this Anglicised Rajah, in an English uniform and a
native turban, I could not remain, because all my arrange-
ments were made for the next day. She, however, sent me
her children out, pretty, clean, and neatly-dressed, in rich,
native attire; and the Rajah's uncle invited me to go into
the fort, to see a new Palace erecting in the English style,
which certainly promised to be a magnificent building.
He then took me to his own house, a respectable Native
habitation ; the old man was very attentive and conversed
a good deal through the interpreter, not understanding
Hindoostanee, any more than her Highness. He wore a
very rich native dress, and had nothing European about
him; he was also very pressing for me to stay another

1815.] REMINISCENCES. 53

day. Two of the cliildren, I then saw, paid me a visit
when in command of Vellore in 1823, grown up to fine
young men, and grotesquely dressed like their parent,
with tight pantaloons, half boots, EngHsh jackets, and
native turbans on their heads. The territories of this
nominal sovereign are very confined, and I suspect his in-
come is somewhat limited for a titled monarch. I took
some refreshment, and resuming my journey, arrived next
morning at Bangalore.

On my return to Bangalore, having completed the disci-
pline of one light corps, I was removed to another, and
perfected it in the new system in five months ; when, for
private reasons, I quitted the line, and obtained the inde-
pendent staft' situation of Deputy Judge Advocate, still
continuing to reside at this cool and healthy station. We
had another earthquake early this year, which occurred
during an eclipse of the moon ; and, being called down on
duty to Arcot, in the month of January 1815, I found that
place so much improved, that I must give it a notice in my
Journal.

ARCOT,
Situated about seventy-four miles west of Madras, and
sixteen east from Vellore ; the former capital of the Car-
natic, now lies mouldering in the dust, with scarcely a
good building being left, and all the works completely
destroyed ; but across the river, a new Arcot has arisen,
being an English cavalry cantonment, and the head
quarters of the centre division. Chosen originally in a
low, sandy and damp soil, it was for many years the hottest

54 MILITARY [A.D.

and most unpleasant station under the Madras Presidency,
saving only Masulipatam ; until of late years, when good
roads have been made in all directions, exxellent public
buildings erected, private houses built and gardens raised,
which have gone far towards redeeming it, as a military station.
The house and garden of the general officer, commanding
the division, are on the very skirt of the cantonment, and
a delightful spot it is. There are good high roads which
lead out a considerable circuit, and a range of sick lines
with barracks and guard-rooms erected about a couple of
miles to the northward on high and hard ground, are re-
sorted to whenever any corps has a particular sickness or
epidemic, in their own lines. About two miles to the
eastward lies the town of Wallajahnugger, one of the finest
and wealthiest towns in the Carnatic. It has one street in
the centre, very nearly a mile long ; a number of rich
merchants reside in it ; and have large and commodious
dwelling houses, as well as extensive warehouses, in which
they have silks, satins, velvets, and in short the very best
of all Indian commodities.

Returning by the Pedanaig Durgum Pass, I must
make mention of a race of Indians, now supposed to be
extinct, who formerly inhabited certain strong holds in the
country, and appear to have been entirely different from
every other tribe, in their habits, manners, and customs.
Approaching Naikenyary, from the top of the Pass, the
road winds along the base of a rocky hill, which leaving
on the left hand, it crosses by the bund of a tank, within a
few hundred yards of the wretched bungalow of that name.
On the top of this hill, are the remains of a stone village.

ISIG.]

REMINISCENCES.

formerly inhabited by the Puundway ; there may be forty
or fifty ruins, and a description of- one, will answer for all.
They are generally a square of eight feet, and about five
in height; the walls, floor, and roof, being formed of single
stones, with two stones set in perpendicular, and rounded
at top for the entrance ; door it cannot be called, the
only passage being cut in a small circle in them, exactly
opposite each other ; the two stones being set two feet
asunder, and the whole strengthened outside by a buttress
of loose stones, within others of four feet high above the
earth, or rock, in which they are set, nearly perpendicular.
I have added a sketch of the one 1 found most entire, to
explain this incoherent description.

r> f:;^i"3^>->i>~
A PANDAWAirS HOUSE.

Every endeavour to get some authentic account of these
people, failed : all I could learn was, that they inhabited
the hill country, had kings and laws of their own, never

56 MILITARY [A.D.

mingling with other natives, but plundering them and re-
tiring to their strong holds, whenever they were pursued
or successfully opposed. The whole in a body were called
Paundway, or Pandw6h, and one was styled a Pandawur.
I have since met with sepulchres on the Malabar coast,
which appeared to me to have some connexion with the
owners of these deserted hamlets.

Returning to Bangalore, nothing worth noting down
occurred till the middle of the year 1816, when, travelling
on duty towards Bellary, I reached the neighbourhood of
a place famed in Eastern story called

PENNACONDAII.
Situated ninety-seven miles to the northward of Bangalore,
in the midst of a clump of hills, and towering over the
whole of them, stands the fortified mountain of Penna-
condah, the proud monument of ages past, and almost
forgotten. The tradition of this wonderful place, and
which I culled from the most intelligent of the inhabitants,
while they pointed out the various parts alluded to therein,
would well deserve a place in the Arabian Nights' Enter-
tainments ; a work by the bye, well known in the original
language, to all the literati of the East; and many a tedious
hour have I beguiled, in early life, at the head of my
company on the march, in hstening to the bard of the
corps, repeating whole tales verbatim in Hindoostanee,
as correctly as our translation gives them, to the wondering
crowd who surrounded him. I shall give this tale, as I got
it ; only premising that Anagoordy or Bijnaghur, lies about
one hundred miles to the north-westward of Pennacondah.

INI. I., KDirr ,v T'l'l'I'TMl Ol-'

PubUii-.x! N- Ssiith.r.i.iPT- ,<-r"R.s r,-,

1816. J REMINISCENCES. 57

In the beginning of the thirteenth century, when the
followers of the false Prophet of Mecca, had overrun a great
j)art of the rich and fertile plains of India, Hurry Ryall,
the Hindoo sovereign of Aanicondah, or Visianugger, the
capital of an extensive kingdom, having been driven from
that far-famed city, the seat of his ancestors, by the Maho-
medan invaders, retreated with the shattered remnant of
his army and the whole of his court, to a remote part of his
country ; where, finding a mountain of enormous height,
considerable extent, and great natural strength, the ap-
proaches to which, on three sides, were extremely difficult,
from the steep and rugged nature of it's ascent, he deter-
mined to build a city at the foot of the only accessible
part, and fortify the whole in such a manner as to bid
defiance to the art and power of the invaders. Not being
pursued or molested, and setting to work accordingly, he
effected his purpose in the course of a few years ; leaving
to his successor, the impregnable fort and city of Penna-
condah : with an elegant Palace, entitled Ghuggun Ma-
haal, in the lower fort, a neat city all round it, several
beautiful koels or temples, and a new and flourishing
kingdom. When called away from a troubled to a better
world, having a rooted antipathy to the Mahomedan in-
vaders, he, with his dying breath, left his son a strong and
solemn injunction, never to permit a Mussulman, under
any pretext, to enter his capital. The young Rajah, as in
duty bound, readily adopted his father's prejudice, and re-
peated the edict, with a positive order to his subjects to
put every Mussulman to death, who should attempt to
infrinee it.

58 iMILITARY [A.D.

The wall of the lower fort, to the southward, is washed
by a fine lake, having a gate with stone steps leading
down to the water ; a ready access to which being of the
first consequence to natives of the East, whose religious
worship is combined with frequent ablutions. Opposite
to this end of the fort, and at no great distance from it, is
situated a picturesque little hill, crowned with a beautiful
temple of great antiquity, in which resided a sage, the
most sanctified and erudite of the Brahmins, who opened
not his mouth but to bless and give instruction, and whose
every word he uttered was respected as an oracle. One
day, when the Rajah was holding his court, attended by
all his principal nobles and statesmen, a Brahmin rushing
in, with dishevelled hair and horror in his countenance,
exclaimed, that a stranger, who had entered the town, and
taken up his abode in the Caravanserah, had killed, and
was at that moment actually eating the sacred flesh of a
cow ! Such an occurrence filled the whole court with
consternation ; and a guard was instantly despatched to
secure the sacrilegious offender, and bring him and the
proofs of his guilt forthwith into the royal presence.
Shortly after which appeared a tall and dignified figure-,
with an exceedingly fine countenance, along with whom
the guard, with much reluctance and horror, produced a
sack, containing the bones of the holy animal.

Violently agitated at such a wanton insult, the King de-
manded his name and business ; telling him, at the same
time, that if he did not instantly restore the cow to life, he
would order him to be hewn in pieces. Upon which the un-
daunted stranger smiled and replied, " My name, oh Hurry

1816.] RliMINISCENCLS, 59

Ryall ! is Fucltcr a Dccn. I am a servant of the true
God; there arc the head, skin, and feet of your cow, let
your celebrated Saint, who lives on Penacoile, come down
and put them together."

" Of what use, caitiff!" exclaimed the enraged monarch,
" are the head, feet, and skin, without the life ?"

" Therein we are perfectly agreed," replied he ; " but
order him to restore it to life, and if he cannot do it, I
will."

So saying, he muttered a sentence, which these Hindoos
could not comprehend, although the few first words re-
mained indelibly impressed on their memory, being
" B'is miUahy i 'ruhmim, u niheeni," at the conclusion of
which, the shattered parts united, and the cow stood alive
in the midst of the assembly, to the no small astonish-
ment and consternation of all the beholders !

The King, accustomed to absolute authority, although
partaking with others the feelings of the moment, soon
recovered his composure and presence of mind, and thus
addressed the mysterious intruder, '* So, my friend, I
find you are a conjurer; do not attempt any thing against
me, I implore you, but try your skill with my Saint of the
hill :" saying which, he ordered both to be sewn up in
sacks, filled with chunam, or unslacked lime, and thrown
into the tank. In a moment the Pagoda hill resounded
with '' La ilia oolah-Mahomed Russool oolah," and the
stranger was seen saying his prayers on the threshold of
the temple. The Brahmin remained under water, and
mayhap is now turned to stone at the bottom of the lake ;
for no native would be so fool-hardy as to dive to the

60 MILITARY [A.D.

spot to ascertain what had become of a body so very
useless.

Hurry Ryall immediately declared, that the Maho-
medan religion was the best, and, making Fucher u Deen
the Peer of his realm, he embraced the faith, with all the
members of his family and nobles of his court. The most ex-
traordinary metamorphosis then took place, in all the temples
of worship and public edifices ; and the Mahomedan or-
ders, engrafted on Hindoo foundations, many of which are
still extant, leave the mind bewildered between fiction and
reality. The relators of this fairy legend, took me to the
Palace Ghuggun Mahaal still standing uninhabited, and
unlike any building of the present day ; which must be
seven hundred years old, if, as I apprehend, truth be
blended with fiction. They then led me to the water-
gate, passing through which, I saw many Mahomedan
additions to the original works; they pointed out the spot
where the two sacks were thrown into deep water ; and
then turning, shewed the Pagoda hill, on which the Peer
took his post, when returning thanks for his miraculous
escape, from the sack in the lake. They next shewed
me several Pagodas turned to Mosques ; and, last of all,
positively took me to the durgah and tomb of Fucher u
Deen, kept in repair and endowed, by the liberality of the
British Government. Not having time to go up to the
sacred Pagoda to complete my conviction, they carried
two of my Mussulman servants up, and gave them a
handful of soft sugar from the miraculous tree, which, in
commemoration of the wonderful event above related, has
continued for ages it's verdant hue, and sheds read^ made

1817.] REMINISCENCES. (il

sugavy as fast " as the Arabian trees their medicinal
gum." My servants, too honest to deceive their master,
acknowledged they had not seen the sugar growing, be-
cause it had been carefully gathered in the morning ; but
that they were assured of the fact by others who had seen
it ; and the iipriglit man ivho received their pecuniary ex-
change for the celestial treasure, having told them so, they
were bound, in honour, to believe it !

Approaching from Nundydroog and Bangalore, you pass
through some difficult defiles, the latter very strong, and
there is a capital stone choultry outside, and a large
Mosque a short distance from the gate on the north face,
in which we put up without any hindrance ; having a deep
and large stone well, with thirty-seven steps of one foot
each, leading under ground, to the water. The Tomb of
Fucher u Deen, a short distance from the latter, is evidently
a Hindoo Pagoda defaced, and altered into a clean
Durgah. Another Hindoo Temple in the Fort, of large
dimensions, within a regular Pagoda wall, has been partly
pulled down, and converted into an excellent Mosque ;
every other building of any consequence has gone to
decay, and it is now, as far as inhabitants go, an insig-
nificant place.

Having removed from Bangalore to Madras in October,
I find nothing worth noticing till the month of June 1817,
when riding one morning on the sea beach, I witnessed a
scene somewhat interesting. I have already described the
catamorans, and the surf, as it was in 1790 ; it had certainly
become less terrific, from the circumstance of the great
encroachment the sea had made, on the beach ; but still

62 MILITARY [A.D.

high, as it always is, particularly during the prevalence of
the land-winds. A dozen of catamorans being assembled
with their crews, generally consisting of three, broad-
chested, athletic fishermen, ready to lamich on the deep,
curiosity tempted me to stop and watch their progress. Of
the three men, the one at the stern uses a double paddle,
somewhat resembling a baker's shovel alone ; and those in
front, two long poles, with which they punt them forward
till clear of the surf. Of all these catamorans, two only
had two boys each, with paddles and no poles. A
southerly wind was blowing at the time ; and whilst the
wary seniors were falling fast to leeward and waiting the
auspicious moment to push through, these young adven-
turers, with ardour at the helm and temerity at the prow,
boldly pushed on, and seemed likely to come to windward
of all the rest, when suddenly a heavy surge taking one of
them, in a twinkling concealed both boys and boat from
my view. Watching, however, till it broke into white
foam, I had the satisfaction to behold the whole safe and
sound, though certainly somewhat differently situated,
with regard to place ; for the catamoran was turned upside
down in one direction, and the two young gentlemen ap-
peared swimming lustily in another. They soon recovered
their wooden property ; and while swimming alongside,
to my utter astonishment, by a combined movement, of
which I should never have supposed them capable, they
turned it over, and, mounting immediately, resumed their
labours as if nothing had happened. My attention had
been so wholly engrossed by their perils, that it was not
till after they were fairly re-seated, I observed all the others

1817.] REMFNISt^ENCES, 63

safe over and beyond the surf, I had, therefore, only to
see them cross it, which they did in about ten minutes,
and then resume my ride.

Of all the occupations in the East, that of a Madras
tisherman appears to be the most perilous ; since they are
the only boatmen, and go every day out of sight of land,
either in a boat or catamoran, as the weather determines
them in the morning ; and in their massoulah boats tliey
attend all the shipping besides. That they are well paid,
I make no doubt, for they are never idle ; but their ex-
posure is proportionately great. In the tirst instance,
relying entirely on a strong sea-breeze in the afternoon,
they run the risque, with all other fishermen, of being
driven out and perishing for want on the ocean, without
food, or shelter from the elements ; for they seldom take
even clothes with them. The second danger is, however,
the greatest, having to encounter morning and evening the
violence of a surf, always formidable, particularly in the
evening, and sometimes terrific ; and when immerged, as
they frequently are, in the briny fluid, a more deadly
enemy is ready to devour them, there being abundance of
large sharks close at hand, not to mention the hazard of
the boat striking or pitching on them, when upset. I have
known many destroyed in that manner, and I have seen
at least thirty persons drowned at once by a Ijoat filling in
the surf. Having never been long at Madras, I cannot be
supposed to know above a very small jjortion of the acci-
dents which have occurred ; but, at the same time, from
the circumstance already mentioned, I believe they are now
less frequent than formerly ; and the boatmen, from long

64 MILITARY [A.D.

experience, have, of course, improved their craft, and gained
a more perfect use of their oars, with a thorough know-
ledge of the only means of safety, by timing their approach
to this formidable obstacle, so that few are now upset in
landing, which I look upon as the most dangerous part.

Having previously used every exertion to get employed
in the field, without success, I this month left Madras for
the Malabar coast, but passing over the early part of my
journey, by a road formerly noticed, I shall only mention an
acquaintance I made at Mundium, two marches from
Seringapatam. Arriving there on the 12th of August, I
met Mirzah Abdul Azeem, a Persian gentleman, travelling
the same road, whom I invited to dine with me, and who
partook of my homely fare without any scruple; telling
my servant, who, horror-struck, whispered to me that the
animals had not been slain in the true Mahomedan manner,
and were therefore forbidden, that in Persia the true
Mussulman had no Hindoo superstitions, and he saw no
harm in eating at an Englishman's table. We lived
together for two stages, and I had much conversation with
him, partly in Persian and partly Hindoostanee, of which
he had only a smattering. He had first come to Bombay
and the coast with the Persian Ambassador, and was pre-
sent when that nobleman unfortunately lost his life. He
was a man of observation, and kept a regular Journal, in
which, at his desire, I entered my name. I found him
writing when I first entered the bungalow, and he had no
hesitation in reading what he had written, one part of
which struck me very forcibly. He said, when Sir John
Malcolm was in Persia, he was not only hospitably

1817.] RliMINlSCliNCIiS. Go

entertained by the Kino-, but that everywhere lie went the
gentlemen paid him tlie most marked attention; and,
indeed, it was a custom amongst them to treat every
stranger, particularly Englishmen, with hospitality: where-
as, the English appeared to despise strangers, since he had
not only travelled all over the Carnatic and Mysore, with-
out receiving even common civility in any station ; but fre-
quently, when he iiad attempted to take shelter in the
public bungalows on the road, had been rudely turned out
by the English, as if they thought no man could be a
gentleman wlio did not wear an English uniform. I must
own I felt the truth of his remarks, and entreated him to
attribute it to a want of knowledge of his rank in some,
and of the customs of the country in others, recommending
him to get letters of introduction in the first place, and he
would then find a wide difference. But he was not satis-
fied ; sayin<^, that in Persia every genteel stranger is
entertained, and his being a stranger, is the only introduc-
tion requisite to their hearts and homes. He said I was
the only one he had met with who treated him with
civility. 1 then begged him to insert my name in his
Journal, which he did in the Persian character, and I wrote
it in English on the margin. In the evening Captain
Garrard, a particular friend of mine, who was travelling-
post, came in, and we drank tea together, so that my
quondam acquaintance met two civil Englishmen, for a
wonder. We rode together next day, and liad a long
amicable dispute on the treatment of women ; and when he
refused them the advantage of education, lest they should
learn to intrigue, and dishonour their husbands, I told

VOL. II. F

QQ MILITARY [A.D.

him, that though we used the padlock, we always placed it
on the mind ; at which he laughed very heartily. Still he
would not believe that a wife, who could write to her
husband, would not also correspond with a paramour;
ergo, he would rather forego the pleasure of hearing from
his lady, during his absence, though he loved her as dearly
as other men could do : of course he meant other Persians.
We parted at Seringapatam, with mutual good wishes, and
promises of remembrance.'

WYNAUD.
Reaching Mysore on the 13th of August, I joined Mr.
and Mrs. Baber, and my friend Canarahmenoen, with
whom I had set out from Madras, and parted for a few
days at Bangalore. On the 15th, we all proceeded to
Humpapoor, twenty miles; and on the 16th, to Untersun-
tay, seventeen miles. On the 1 7th, to Kaukuncottah, a fort
in the jungle, thirteen miles ; on the march to which,
meeting an elephant at day-light, while I was walking,
prepared for such a rencontre, I fired at him about twenty-
five or thirty yards off, when he disappeared instantly,
before the smoke would allow me to see him. I took aim
at the cavity over the eye, having a thin convex bone on
the surface, but being somewhat in a hurry, I might have
missed the exact spot, and only wounded him. He did
not attempt to charge, for which attack I had reserved the
left barrel ; and we saw no more of him, though we found
abundance of other game on the road.

On the 18th of August, we reached the Post at the
Bowally nullah, and found the bridge perfectly repaired ;

1817.] RliMI NISCKNCKS. ()7

and on liie way to iManantoddy, had an opportunity of
observing- all the bamboo jungle, for about ten miles, dying
and dead, which had a most unconmion and dreary ap-
pearance ; particularly when contrasted with the same plant-
ation in blossom, in December, 1812. This })henomenon
proceeded from the trees having blossomed and borne seed
this year, when they die immediately; whilst the seeds vege-
tate and spring up in their room, forming, in due time, a
fresh and thicker plantation. As the fogs are so heavy in
Wynaud, we did not move the next day till after breakfast,
and had a most delightful ride, in a tolerably dry day, through
the most romantic and beautiful scenery to be met with in
the world. The road is a most capital one the whole way ;
and when the country through which it runs is considered,
being a series of steep mountains, covered with impene-
trable jungle, and connected by narrow marshy valleys, the
greatest credit is due to the pioneers under Captain Smith-
waite, for completing such a laborious work. We were
accompanied all the way by Carianary Poorikawittle
Canaroo, son of the rebel Chief Ramanumby, whose head
was brought to us at Manautoddy, in 1812. This young-
man insisted on carrying, alternately, Mr. Baber's and my
fowling piece, on the road ; and here was a wonderful
change in circumstances and feelings. We had entered
Wynaud, in 1812, when his father, whose life we had fairly
hunted down, was a wealthy chief; and this poor boy had
been our prisoner, when that father's head was produced
to be recognized. We were now riding in front of him,
grown up to manhood, with a loaded double-barrelled gun
in his hand, and he craving a restitution of his poperty ;
F 2

68 MILITARY [A.D.

having been robbed of all his father's possessions by the
Native servants of the Collector, on the plea of being the
son of a rebel : although the property had not been for-
feited, in consequence of the son's having been innocent,
and unconcerned in the insurrection. A poor forlorn
wretch, with his father's two principal enemies before him,
had this young man possessed a spark of the devil in his
whole composition, he might have been tempted to retaliate
upon the instruments of his parent's disgrace; since poverty
in a haughty untutored mind frequently leads to crime.
We put up in a bungalow, near the head of the Periah Pass.
distant sixteen miles from Manantoddy. In addition to
the visit of poor Canaroo, T observed that ever since we
had entered Wynaud, all the Police Kolkars and Coorchers,
Revenue soldiers, had come in parties to pay their respects
to their old master and mistress ; and we were beset by all
sorts and conditions of the natives, who had been ac-
customed to look up to Mr. Baber for justice, when First
Collector, and afterwards Judge of the Zillah. He had
then been recently promoted to the Circuit Court, and
their marked affection bespoke in my mind, the kind and
upright magistrate. The Periah Ghaut, which we de-
scended the next morning, is a wonderful monument of
human labour ; for though it is about five miles in length,
a carriage might be driven the whole way, either up or
down. The road is very broad, and sloped inward to the
hills, a new and approved method of making roads over
mountains, and the labour in constructing it, must have
been great beyond conception ; the hills being cut in many
places thirty, and even fifty feet perpendicular, above the

1817.] RI'MINISCENCES, 71

road. The object best worth seeing, however, is a hill
which stands directly above the Pass, and is called the
Periah Peak, which, even from the level above, is a mag-
nificent and enormous mountain, and is a conspicuous
object from sea, all along that part of the coast. The
height I should take to be one thousand five hundred feet
above the upper plain, and nearly five thousand above the
sea. Though of very steep and difficult ascent, it amply
repays the labour, on arriving at the summit, to find a
beautiful plain, capable of containing a camp for four or
five thousand men, covered with rich vegetation, and many
beautiful trees. The climate must be extremely cold, but
I cannot vouch for it's salubrity ; and the scenery of the
extensive panorama, from this exalted spot, is grand
beyond description. About half a mile from the foot of
the Pass, is a small bridge across a stony river and an
insignificant village, called Nuddumbrseshawle ; which the
English have, as usual, transformed into Neddy Brinjall ;
the word shawle denoting an avenue, which is here com-
menced. Proceeding after breakfast, Mr. and Mrs. Baber
in a gig, with post horses ; my friend Canarahmcnoen and
I rode one horse each, the whole way to Tellicherry, a dis-
tance of thirty-six miles ; and arrived at two o'clock, P. M.,
on the 20th of August. The south-west monsoon, as it
were favouring us for a few hours, for it was at it's height,
and yet did not rain all the morning of that day.

TELLICHERRY.
Here I found every thing in statu f/uo, excepting Mr.
Baber's residence, which was entirely new, and one of the

72 MILITARY [A.D.

loveliest spots in India ; being erected on a small hill,
five or six hundred feet above the level of the country,
commanding a view, including the river and island, with
both bridges, to the Periah Peak, and so diversified with
hill and dale, that the eye never tired in surveying it.
This hill, when I was last at Tellicherry, was as wild as the
rest of the hundreds with which this coast is studded ;
now a comfortable residence had arisen, and two good
roads, up and down, had been made with much labour,
whilst a young plantation was in embryo to complete the
whole. It was about a mile inland, and the sea-breeze
blew over the tops of myriads of cocoa-nut trees ; which,
however, obstructed the view of the shipping in the roads ;
the flag-staff on the citadel alone being visible in that
direction, though the more distant shore, on either side,
was as distinct as the interior. The climate was also
delightful, and I think Tellicherry one of the healthiest
places in the East.

I had here, for the first time, an opportunity of witness-
ing an annual ceremony, which always takes place, foul or
fair, at the full of the moon, in August ; and is intended
as an opening of the ports, from one end of this coast to
the other, after being closed from the commencement of the
south-west monsoon, about the 15th of May. This nomi-
nal opening is, however, confined to the Natives, for Euro-
peans do not consider the monsoon over till October, and
the insurance is void from the 15th of May until the 15th
of September, when all the flag-staffs, struck on the former
day, are again raised. The ceremony of which I am speak-
ing, is however, entirely a religious one, and intended to

1817.] RKAflNISCENCES. 73

propitiate the elements ; after which the natives launch
fearlessly into the ocean, and sometimes pay very severely
for their credulity. Tlie greater part of the trade of this
coast, is carried on in pattamars, by far the fastest sailing
and safest craft in the East, and so extraordinarily are they
constructed, that they can sail nearer to the wind, than
any ship that is built. On the 26th of August, being the
full moon, and one hundred and six inches of rain having
fallen this monsoon, I accompanied Mr. Baber in a gig, to
the old Fort of Moilan. We set out during a fair moment
early in the evening, and accompanied the procession, one
of the strangest and most grotesque I ever witnessed in
my life, and so crowded, that the whole road, a very wide
one, for three miles, was covered. Indeed, I think an ac-
tive Harlequin might have skipped on the umbrellas of
this multitude, from one end to the other, without touching
the ground ; for every man and woman on this coast carries
a parapluie, so that from our elevated seat in the gig, it
appeared as if we were moving along amongst an immense
shoal of turtles, some white, some brown, some red, some
green, some yellow, some blue, but all spherical. Under
the Fort of Moilan, there are some large rocks jutting into
the sea, which at this spot forms a miniature harbour : the
water is deep, and boats were stationed about a stone's
throw off, to prevent accidents. On one of these project-
ing eminences, we took our stand, and some Brahmins on
another, surrounded on three sides by the principal natives
of all castes. The head Brahmin then squatted down on
the side towards the sea, with a dish of rice, and a whole

74 MILITARY [A.D.

cocoa-nut, gilded over, in the centre. He muttered a prayer,
and having distributed the rice with his finger and thumb,
to all the respectable attendants, threw the cocoa-nut
into the sea ; which was immediately followed by some
hundreds from the crowd that surrounded him. A number
of men and boys dashed into the water at the same time to
catch the cocoa-nuts, and a scene of amusing confusion
followed, in which the exertions of the boatmen were now
and then requisite, particularly when any young gentleman
got a crack on the sconce, with a cocoa-nut. Thus ended
this extraordinary ceremony, and returning home we got
wet through, as if to prove the fallacy of the sacrifice to put
a period to the rain ; and the monsoon, this year, lasted
till October, as I had reason to remember from the sequel.
Having mentioned the Pattamars, I may as well describe
them here with the other craft of this coast. They are
broad, well-formed boats, of various sizes, carrying from
sixty to three hundred candies ; those above one hun-
dred candies have a tolerable cabin astern, and the
larger ones are really comfortable ; some that I have
seen being upwards of twenty feet broad. They have no
deck, excepting for the after-cabin ; but when the cargo is
stowed, bamboos and mats are laid over the whole, capable
of bearing the weight of any number of men. The masts,
sails, and rigging, are what particularly distinguish them
from other boats; the main-yard being of an enormous
length, with a kind of latine sail set forward ; and the
second mast and yard being very diminutive in comparison.
These boats are the first that brave the ocean after cocoa-

1817.]

R KM IN ISC KNC lis.

nut day, and they take shelter in the variou.s creeks along-
bold shore, whenever they apprehend bad weather.

A PATTAMAR AND FISHING-STAKE,

(hi tin: Backicater at Cochin.

The next in safety is the Munjoo, or Munjee, which is
a very strong built and well-formed boat, with something
of a grab prow, for carrying grain, from Punanie princi-
pally, along the coast. Some of them will hold two
hundred morahs of rice, each morah containing fifty seers,
and a seer being about two pounds. These also have no
deck, but a sort of low cabin astern.

The Battcclah somewhat resembles the Pattamar, but is
larger, and more like a clumsy sloop. These go long

MILITARY

[A.D.

voyages, but are not esteemed cither so safe, or such good
sailers as the former.

A B ATT (EL All AND M UN J 00.

The Arab Dowe, or at least the Dowe which is built for
the Arabs and Moors at Cochin, Goa, and other sea-ports
on this coast, is like a large ship in the hull, with a high
stern, quarter-galleries, Sec, gradually falling off forward,
and ending in a grab head. They are immensely large
and unwieldy, and have only half a keel ; a large clumsy
mast is fastened in the middle, and they carry one im-
mense sail, with sometimes an apology for a jib. I believe
more of these vessels perish in the Indian seas than of any

1817.]

RF.MIN'ISCENCES,

other description ; not that they are more insecure than
the next to be noticed, but the latter are less common.

The Dingey is the most antediluvian of all the Eastern
vessels, and I am inclined to think the most unsafe ; but
they are not very numerous in any ports I have fre-
quented. It is a slight, ill-formed boat, very low in the
centre, with a mat covering, and an enormous top-heavy
stern, sometimes several stories high. Some of them even
carry cannon in the upper stories ; and I have known
two or three wrecked, and their crews wholly lost, when
other vessels weathered the same gale, and got safe to
harbour.

A DINGEY AND DOWE.

MILITARY

[A.D.

The Doney, or Tony, of the Eastern coast, is a large
awkward vessel, and carries very heavy cargoes, even to
the ports on the western shore of the Peninsula. They
have one mast, and a square sail, sometimes using a small
top-sail. They are reckoned sea-worthy ; but have no ac-
commodation for Europeans, and are generally very heavy
sailers.

The fishing canoes on the western coast are the safest
boats in the world, made out of a single tree, of very large
dimensions, with a gunwale sewed on above ; they are fit
for all seasons and weathers ; and some of them are as
much as five feet broad, and thirty-six long.

A CANOE AND DONEY.

1817. J jn-.MiNiscENCES. 79

Being about to visit Quilon, I left Tellicheny on the
15th of September ; and passing through Machee, reached
Biiregerry, or Waddegeddy, as it should be pronounced,
thirteen miles distant, and put up in an excellent up-stair
house, close to the ruins of a very strong little fort, with a
neat stone tank below it, and a good little square bazar a
short distance towards the sea-shore, from which it is not
more than half a mile. I found the whole road good for
travelling on horseback, and the country beautifully covered
with luxuriant vegetation.

On the IGth of September I reached Koelandy, or
Quilandy, a distance of seventeen miles, with the ut-
most difficulty, from the heavy rain, inundated roads,
and rapid rivers. There is a good travellers' bunga-
low at this place, and a Collector's cutcherry near it, on
the plain. The town is very large and straggling, con-
sisting of an immense Mosque, several smaller ones, some
large, handsome houses, and many miserable hovels,
huddled together promiscuously, without taste or common
sense. It is also embellished with dirty roads leading in
all directions, and mostly under water. When you reach
the sea-side, however, there are some excellent buildings,
principally stone warehouses, which, being built on sand,
they could not contrive to make a puddle of a street there ;
and, I should observe, that the same remark applies to the
streets of Baregerry. The whole country I passed through
these two days is rich beyond conception ; but the popula-
tion seems by no means to bear any proportion to it's
extent. The villages are small and scattered ; the few

80 MILITARY [A.D-

houses full of squalid children, of whom I suspect few
reach maturity ; and all the wealth of the country seems
in the grasp of a handful of narrow-minded, miserable
Moplahs, who hoard it up in large stone buildings, in the
midst of filth and misery; or spend it on Mosques, of
which there are a great superabundance. One of the most
remarkable proofs of the unsociable disposition of this
truly disgusting tribe is, that they actually will not as-
semble together in any number, even to pray ; and though
charity is a conspicuous virtue with all other natives of
India, they have it not. A strong instance of this was
given while I was hving in Calicut, in 1819, whilst a fa-
mine and the spasmodic cholera were raging all over the
country. A subscription was raised, even far beyond our
means, by every European and Native inhabitant, save
only the Moplahs, the richest of the whole ; and hundreds
of poor daily fed and assisted, some of whom were actually
Moplahs, who declared that their own caste would not give
them any relief. Many respectable Hindoo merchants
behaved with a truly Christian spirit on this occasion; and
all other Mussulmans joined to the best of their ability.
Their many Mosques, and little charity, proved them to be
utterly ignorant of the beautiful apophthegm of the Poet,

" Who builds a Church to God, and not to fame,
Will never mark the marble with his name."

These ungodly people are more jealous of their Mos :i[ucs
than any Mussulmans I have ever known, and I never
could get inside of one to examine it : but their ex-

1817.]

REMINISCF.NCES,

teriors being diftcrent from any otliers I have seen in my
travels, I was tempted to make sketches of two of tlie
largest; one at Quilandy, and the other at Puniany.

A MOPLAII MOSQUE AT KOELANDY.
CALICUT.
This place, distant seventeen miles, once of great conse-
quence, and famed in history from the visit of Vasco di
Gama, upwards of three hundred years ago, is now no
longer a capital, or even a large station. The town is
extensive, reaching from the sea-shore about a mile in-
land, and contains many wealthy Native inhabitants, with
some capital houses ; but it is very low, and being sur-
rounded with cocoa-nut and other trees, is consequently, a
very hot place. A few gentlemen of the civil service re-
side in garden-houses inland, three of which are built on
hills, and the others exposed to the same inconvenience
from excessive heat, as those in the town. To give some
further idea of the manner in which Europeans miscall

VOL. IJ. G

28 MILITARY [A.D.

places in the East, I must mention that the real name of this
town is Koekote ; and it's origin is a singular mixture of
two very opposite words, being no less than kotlye or coleye,
a fowl, and kola or coala a fort, literally Cock Fort. A
former sovereign of Malabar, being under great obligations
to one of his Generals, gave him a small fort, which he had
built on the sea-shore, and fixed the boundary or limits of
his authority, by the crowing of a cock, placed in the
citadel. Thus, wherever the voice of chanticleer could be
distinguished all round, so far, and no further was to be
considered within his government. Hence arose the name ;
though it is added, that this judicious Governor first
established the original extent by the royal limit, and
afterwards, attended by this inestimable trumpeter, gradu-
ally conquered and increased his territory into a kingdom.
Be that as it may, there is now every appearance of the
original fort and town having been a mile further in the
sea. Temples have been seen, some years back, nearly
under water ; and there is, at the present day, a bank
that distance from the shore, covered with old burned
bricks, and other vestiges of buildings, some feet under
water, which renders the approach of shipping from the
southward, both difficult and dangerous. Above the town
all is safe. Between this place and Tellicherry, I after-
wards fixed my residence, having very intimate friends in
both;* and boats, going backwards and forwards, take a

* My oldest friends at Calicut were Mr, and Mrs. Babington ; but
a constant and friendly intercourse with all the rest, soon gave me the
privilege of increasing my list. Mr. J. Babington was Collector of sea
customs; Mr. Huddlestone his assistant, Mr. James Vaughan, Collector;
Mr. W. Mason, his assistant; Mr. Pearson, Zillah Judge; Mr. Hewit-
son, Assistant-surgeon of the Zillah ; Mr. Whish, Registrar; Mr. William

1817.]

RE^nNlSCENCK^

single night only to sail and row from one to the other,
running along in sight of land, the whole way.

On the 20th of September, I left Calicut for the resi-
dence of my Wynaud friend, Kulpilly Canarahmcnoen,
which is about twelve miles distant, in a south-easterly
direction, and six from the sea shore.

CANARAIIMENOEN'S HOUSE.

RAMNAAD.
In the middle of a most fertile and extensive valley, the
estate of my friend stands conspicuous for cultivation.
His house is on the western side of a long range of paddy
o-round, the property of his family ; and two of his brothers
are the principal farmers. Being nearly square, the whole
compound is surrounded with a high mud wall, covered
with shrubs at the top, to protect it from the violence of
the rain ; having one entrance to the eastward, through

Fell, Conservator of forests; and Captain Lee, wliom I had known at
Tutucorine, Master-attendant. One company of Sepoys was generally
stationed there with European officers, regularly relieved.

84 MI Mr All Y [A.D.

a very neat little up-stair building, the lower part being
the portico, and situated in the centre of the wall. There
are also two separate Houses beyond this, and various
smaller buildings, surrounded by a well-stocked garden.
This place of abode, in peaceable times, is common to all
the Naires of rank and property in Malabar ; and the saying
so common in England, that " every man's House is his
Castle," is completely verified here, for this and many
other Naires' houses, might be defended by twenty reso-
lute men, against thousands without guns, and even for
days, against field-pieces only. On the top of this porte
cochere, I took up my abode for four days ; and had the
pleasure of enjoying the society of a sensible, and most be-
nevolent man, with a mind far above the prejudices of his
country, and gazing on the beautiful panorama, exhibited
by nature from the windows. A lovely amphitheatre, em-
bracing the whole view at once, composed of the luxuriant
fields already mentioned in the foreground, a succession of
small woody hills in the centre, and the lofty mountains of
Wynaud enveloped here and there in clouds, in the distance.
My out-of-doors amusement was equally interesting.
To the right, or south of the compound, about a mile off,
runs a beautiful little stream, narrow but very deep, with
brushwood and low jungle on both sides, full of every kind
of game. A small bridge across, keeps up the communi-
cation, and here was Canarahmenoen's boat always
kept ; in which a man might sit all day, moved about on
the surface of this rivulet, and shoot abundance, without
landing. Being accustomed to exercise, I used it more as
a conveyance to different parts, and enjoyed an occasional
scramble up the hills, at no great distance. The accom-

1817.

RKMINlSCliNCI'.

panying sketch of this canoe, gives the costume of all the
fishermen on the Malabar coast.

CANAllAIIMNN'S BOAT.

The rain falling in torrents all night, and for the greater
part of three days, must have added twenty inches in the
pluviometer ; and being thus detained much beyond my
intended time, proved very acceptable to my servants,
who found that the kindness of our host was not confined
to their master, but extended to every living creature be-
longing to him ; since he would not allow any one of them
to purchase an article of provisions while we remained
under his hospitable roof. His younger brother, Ramoo
Menoen, being a keen sportsman, used to accompany me
in my rambles, when from an attack of Wynaud fever, every
5pring, he was unable to go out shooting. The weather
airing after the ecpiinox, I took leave of Canarahmenoen
and his family, and |>roceeded, through nmd and swollen
rivers, frc(iuently swinnning my horses, seventeen miles to

TANNOin:.

This is a very extensive and tolerably regular village, a
short distance from the sea ; containing by the Cutwal's

86 MILITARY [A.D.

account, two thousand houses, and a population, includ-
ino- all ao-es, of twelve thousand souls. There are three
or four Moplah Mosques, some stone tanks, &.C., and it
bears all the marks of antiquity. There is a small canal
or back-water just beyond the village, inland, and on the
other side, is the estate of Punny Kote Keloo Menocn, a
Naire and relation of C^narahmenoen's. He immediately
came across the water, and invited me to put up at his
house, which I did on my return, and had the pleasure to
witness two games of chess played in the true Native style.
The ground being smoothed and checkered with chunam,
and the pieces cut out of the stalk of a plantain leaf;
the queen and bishop alone differing, in their moves and
value from our's. The Queen, or wazeer, moving diagonally
backwards and forwards, one square, and taking like a
Pawn ; and the Bishop clearing over every thing, within
it's range, but taking or checking only on the second
square diagonally ; so that the Castle is the only piece,
which can move and take, from one end of the board to
the other. There is abundance of good shooting-ground
inland ; and on the back-water small boats find their way
to the next stage of fifteen miles, to

PUNIANY.
This town is situated on the southern bank of a broad
and navigable river, and has the sea on the right. Tra-
vellers are accommodated in a good up-stair house, facing
the river, and commanding a view of the sea as well as the
interior ; a part of this building is also used as a Cutcherry
by the Collector's people, who, however, kindly give up the

1817.] Ri'.MiNisriiNCiiS. N7

largest and best room, to any gentleman who arrives ni the
place; the Native name of which is Poonanee, or Poonkul.
On the road near Kotai, five miles distant, I remarked two
large Mosques, and some good houses ; and a iiag-stafi'
close to the Mosques, much resembling in si/e and shape,
the mizen mast of a ship, with all the yards across, but no
sails bent. Of the trade and navigation of this place, [ am
inclined to form a high opinion, from the bustle I observed
all day, and the number of boats of burthen at the
wharf. I counted thirty-six munjoos of difierent sizes ; from
one hundred and fifty to two hundred and fifty morahs ;
and even went on board several of them which were laden
with rice, tobacco, and cocoa-nuts ; for Mahe, Calicut,
Tellicherry, and Bombay. What market they can find for
the latter commodity, on a coast covered with the parent
trees, from Surat to Cape Comorin, I know not, but the
fact is as I have stated it. The munjoo is a heavy rower,
and therefore generally sails ; having one mast which fixes
when required, in the middle, but in this respect, she has
still the advantage over the pattamar, with a foul wind, or
no wind at all, because they can contrive to row her on,
about two or three miles an hour. But to return to the
town : I found it the most intricate place I had ever been
in, no street running two hundred yards in a straight line,
but all branching off" continually, in all directions. There
are many capital and some superb buildings of divers
shapes: the three principal ones, which tempted me to
make enquiries, belonged to a Merchant, a Facheer, and a
Caw zee.* The bazars are large and uncommonly well
stocked with the usual articles of Native consumption. Of
" C'iuuce, a Mussulman Jurl;;o, oi cxpouiulLi' of tlif law.

MILITARY

[A.D

rarities, I saw none ; in some parts a pent roof pandall,
erected in the middle of the street, connects the shops on
each side, particularly where two oil shops are opposite
each other ; which must be extremely pleasant in rainy
weather. I could not get hold of one man, who spoke the
Hindoostanee, and therefore, could not correctly ascertain
the number of houses and inhabitants; though I am inclined
to rate the latter at fifty thousand, and I remarked for the
first time on this coast, some good-looking Maupulah
women in the streets. I forgot to mention the Mosques,
of which there are more than enough, and resemble so
many large pigeon houses ; the one I have sketched being
the largest, seen over a high stone wall, in a narrow street :
the prejudices of this cowardly, but sulky and jealous race
precluding me from approaching nearer.

MOPLAII MOSQl'E AT PUNIANY.

1817.] RKMINISCENCES. 89

On the road to Munalakoonu, ten miles distant, we had
a good deal of rain, hut tlie ground being sandy, it did not
impede us on the road. There are the remains of an
avenue in this march; and the bungalow at Monulgoontah,
as the Moors call it, is delightfully situated on a green
plain, outside of the village.

Setting out early the next morning, we reached a river
at Chowhaut, seven miles on, and crossed a ferry, where I
had the pleasure to see a boy, fourteen or fifteen years old,
row a boat across the river with one of his feet, while
sitting on the stern, and actually make it move, with
several people in it, as fast as the one on which I was
standing. Here was a resource of unsophisticated nature
displayed to advantage; and it recalls to my mind a feat
somewhat similar, which I once witnessed when out snipe
shooting at Pallamcottah ; a nullah was full from bank to
bank, and I observed a naked Native child, five or six years
old, go up to a buffalo, and, with a small switch drive it into
the stream, and no sooner had the tractable animal taken
to the water, than the infant driver, laying hold of his tail,
kept himself above water, till they reached the opposite
bank, when they parted company. I have even my doubts
whether they were not perfect strangers before this soci-
able rencontre.

CIIETWAir.
Crossing a wide river at Chetwah, we took possession of
a shooting bungalow, built by a Mr. Drummond, when
Collector on this coast. Being entirely abandoned, it was

90 MILITARY [A.D.

now going fast to ruin, though formerly a place of annual
resort for hog hunting by most of the European gentlemen
in Malabar. The river here runs into the sea at a short
distance, being connected with a back-water, reaching from
Chowghaut down to Quilon, a distance of one hundred
and forty miles. This bungalow, though in a progressive
state of decay, had enough left to give an inhabitant of the
opposite coast some idea of the luxuriant living, even on
shooting parties, which prevailed some years back on the
western shore. The hall, with a boarded floor, was sixty
feet long, and twenty-eight broad ; another room was
thirty-six feet square ; four bed-rooms, thirty feet by
twenty ; a front room about twenty by sixteen ; and an
immensely long covered-in veranda, connecting the whole
on both sides, together with various out-houses. On ex-
amining the floor of the hall, I found one plank of fine
teak, thirty-six feet long; whilst the various ruins all round
equally bespoke the abundance of timber, and the paucity
of metal ; for every nail or piece of iron is wrenched out,
and the wood left to decay. The situation of this bun-
galow is truly delightful, being placed on elevated ground,
and having the sea a very short distance on the right,
forming a narrow island with the river and back-water ;
and the finest hog hunting in Malabar is said to be on this
spot. At a short distance on the sea coast, lies an old
ruined fort, the site of which is commanding and well
chosen. It had been an irregular pentagon, but is so
completely demolished, that there is now hardly a stone
standing above the foundation ; though several banian and

1817.] REMINISCENCES. 91

peepul trees,* which had evidently grown in crevices of
the wall, are still extant, and in a very extraordinary
manner mark the limits of it's former bastions, &.c. These,
interwoven together by the roots, formed en espalier, now
quite bare, shew where they were formerly spread on the
walls; and quantities of small stones intermixed with
chunam cement, appear here and there in the interstices.
These are really natural curiosities ; but what has become
of the thousands of large stones to which they were at-
tached, I cannot conceive ; as the facing of one bastion
would furnish ample materials for the bungalow, and there
is no town nearer than Chowghaut, which, across the
back-water and river, may be two miles distant, in a direct
line. Though, after the works were demohshed, the con-
venience of water carriage would render the removal com-
paratively easy. In the neighbouring jungle, and up the
back-water to the eastward, I found abundance of game of
every description.

PALIPORT, OR PULLIETOTE.
Proceeding in a good cabined boat, on the back-water,
the village of PuUietote, literally Garden-mosque, is the first
place of any consequence that meets the eye ; and is
the residence of Mr. Tate, an opulent English merchant,
and formerly an inhabitant of Bombay. * Having obtained

* The Peepul, a species of Banian, but with different leaves, is sacred
all over India, and I found it also in the ground surrounding the great
Chinese temple at Canton. It is a majestic and most beautiful tree;
and it's leaves, which resemble so many paper kites, are of the liveliest
green.

t This gentleman, then very old and infirm, died a few years after-
wards.

92 MILITARY [A.D.

a grant of the ground to a considerable extent from the
Rajah of Cochin, he is a little sovereign, with a free trade
on both sides of his territory, which may be half a mile
broad, and is several miles in length. The ground is low
and productive, and possessing a free port, only fifteen
miles from an English one, where the customs are exor-
bitant, he trades to great advantage. His bungalow, on
the margin of the back-water, is delightfully situated, and^
with the long ranges of go-downs for merchandize, has a
most conspicuous appearance ; whilst a neat village, Roman
Catholic Church, Vicarage, Mosque, &,c., add very consi-
derably to the interest of the scene. ■ ■■

COCHIN.
This place is situated on the sea-shore, at the mouth of
a fine navigable river, capable of containing a large fleet,
in nine degrees, fifty-eight minutes, North latitude ; and
seventy-six degrees, sixteen minutes of East longitude.
Built by the Dutch, when in the zenith of their power, it
was then a port of the first importance, commanding all
the trade of the Malabar coast, and affording the utmost
safety in all weathers to the shipping within the bar ; over
which, however, vessels above three or four hundred tons
can pass at the height of the springs only. The river here
passes through the back-water, or inner lake, and spreading
out, forms a very fine and deep harbour, just above the
town. The hand of time, the not less destructive hand of
John Bull, and the extreme poverty of the remaining inha-
bitants, have alike combined to reduce this once flourishing-
city, to a small, insignificant town : but the massy frag-

LS17.] RKMINMSCKNCliS. 93

ments and ruins of a large fort, on an elevated and well
chosen spot, washetl by the sea to the westward, and by
the river to the nortli, amply record it's former strengtli
and respectability ; whilst a few capital dwelling houses,
still inhabited, and the mutilated remains of others, in
long, well-paved streets, serve to prove that it has been an
extensive and well-built town. The works must have
com])letely commanded the entrance to the river, and no
shi]) could have forced it's way up, while they were in
existence. A ready access to the finest timber for mari-
time purposes, with the facility of launching vessels of
any size, have still secured to this port the almost exclu-
sive privilege of ship-building ; and the shipwrights and
carpenters are, therefore, both expert and numerous.
Here, of late years, some of the largest and best ships in
the Eastern and Chinese trade have been built, and several
Frigates were also constructed for the royal navy ; but
heavy duties, with the causes already mentioned, have
now reduced it to insignificance as a trading port ; and
the houses being generally situated in low ground, the
lieat is always great and the nights oppressive; whilst
myriads of musquitos assail the stranger, and increase his
annoyance.

MUTTUNCIIERRV.
About one mile inland, to the south-east of Cochin, is a
town built and inhabited exclusively by Jews ; and their
houses, unlike any other in India, are all of one shape,
with extraordinary pent roofs. They form a separate com-
munity, have a Synagogue of their own ; and are in dress.

94 MILITARY [A.D.

manners, and customs, entirely distinct from both Euro-
jseans and Natives. There are, however, very few of the
present inhabitants of this place of pure unmixed Euro-
pean blood, being mostly descended from the original
emigrants, supposed to have fled from Jerusalem, when it
fell into the hands of the Romans. They have a grant or
license from the Sovereign of Malabar, engraven on copper,
dated 1757, being three hundred and eleven years after the
destruction of the capital by Titus, and answering to the
year three hundred and eighty-eight of the Christian era ;
consequently, this colony has noio been established for one
thousand four hundred and forty-two years. They have no
record of their pilgrimage ; and how they contrived to
reach a place so distant, or in what numbers they arrived,
is left entirely to conjecture. A few European Jews are in-
termixed with them, mostly from Frankfort ; but the whole
are fair and well proportioned, with handsome features,
and all wear the same ancient costume. These poor out-
casts complain, as do their nation in every part of the
world, of oppression from the existing government ; being
entirely under the Rajah of Cochin, whose Palace is close
to their town, and they petition hard to be made British
subjects. I examined their Synagogue in the year 1819,
when they were all assembled there ; and a Frankfort Jew,
named Napht^li, who appeared to be the chief of this
small community, and spoke Malabar and bad French,
was at great pains to shew and explain every thing, as soon
as their devotions were ended. The building itself is very
plain, with a small belfry at one end, in which a rude clock?
two hundred years old, regulates their time. The floor is

1817.] RK.VtINiSCENCES. 95

all paved with China, very neatly inlaid ; and at one end
is a recess, carved and gilded, with a rich curtain before it,
in which, within folding doors, are deposited, in silver
cases, five copies of the Pentateuch, written in Hebrew
characters on vellum, and so extremely well executed as to
resemble the finest cojjper-plate. Each case is covered with
rich brocade, and one is surmounted with a gold crown
and other ornaments, the gift of Colonel Macaulay, when
Resident there. This Synagogue differs little from places
of Christian worship, except in having the women in a
gallery apart from the men, with railings and net-work, to
conceal them from public view. I went into several of
their houses, and was astonished to find the wives of the
most respectable, all dressed like the natives of India,
chewing betel ; and, save in the article of skin and fea-
tures, very little superior to the common Malabar women.
The men, as far as I could judge from appearances,
were more intelligent, though much dejected ; and the
whole most forcibly recalled to my mind the ancient
prophecies, so fully verified in this dispersed and de-
graded nation. The Palace of the Rajah next claimed
my attention, being within musquet-shot of the Syna-
gogue ; and of all the tinsel exhibitions of Eastern grandeur
I ever witnessed, this was the most extraordinary. The
building itself, ill-situated and worse executed, appears to
jne to have been originally either a Dutch or Portuguese
factory ; it consists of a long narrow up-stairs room, with
a low veranda all round it, and uncommonly thick walls,
within a strong enclosure. At the time of our visit, viz.
in June, 1819, which I have here anticipated, the Rajah

96 MILITARY [A.D.

had assembled all his court, and we were met at the
threshold by several fiddlers, who wagged their elbows at
a most furious rate, though the sounds they produced were
drowned by tomtoms, collery horns, bugles, and every dis-
cordant instrument that could well be imagined ; whilst a
set of dancing girls attempted to keep time to this inhar-
monious medley. A guard of the Rajah's own Sepoys also
attracted our attention, being miserably clothed and worse
accoutred, with turbans of the exact resemblance of fool's
caps. The Rajah is very a tall, thin Chettry,* with large
features, teeth like an old horse, and has altogether a most
idiotical appearance. His Minister, named ]S[unjepiah,t
on the contrary, looked like a cunning old fox ; though it is
said, that the former is a good astronomer, and well versed
in Hindoo mythology, but that giving up his whole time
to those studies has incapacitated him for common affairs.
On this occasion I received a very handsome present from
the Rajah, which, according to orders recently published,
I delivered up to the Resident, and took a receipt for it.
On the opposite side of the river, or rather bay, is a small
island called Balghattie, about three miles in length, and
from a quarter to half a mile in breadth. On this island
is a beautiful house, erected at the Rajah's expense, for

* A particular caste of Hindoos.

f An after-acquaintance with this Minister enabled me to form a
better opinion of him. He was a man of much information for a Native,
with superior abilities, by which he contrived to make an imbecile
master govern a considerable country, with credit to himself and ad-
vantage to his subjects ; and I believe him to have been an honest and
upright man. He died in 1825, while I was in command of the sub-
sidiary force, and in constant intercourse with him.

1817.] IIKMINISCF.NCES. 07

tlie accommodation of the Resident, or his assistants untl
friends, and many a pleasant day have I spent tlieiein.
It was really a delightful spot ; and the memory of two
friends, now, alas ! no more, endears it to my recollection.
The first, Lieutenant-colonel Sutherland IVPDowall, who
died of cholera at Madras, in November, 1821, had been
just appointed Resident when I accompanied him to
Cochin ; and the latter. Lieutenant-colonel D.jVewall, from
whom I parted in August, 1826, when going to assume the
command of the Dhooab field force, and who died a few
months afterwards on his })assage to England. The
former was one of the kindest and most intimate friends I
ever possessed, and one of the mildest and most amiable
of men ; the latter was Resident while I was in command
of the subsidiary force, and the greatest cordiality sub-
sisted between us at all times. He was a kind-hearted,
liberal man, and a particular favourite of Sir Thomas
Munro, than whom no man ever possessed a clearer
judgment.

98 MII-ITARY [A.D.

CHAPTER III.

Akpic — Quilon — Indian Castes at Malabar — Prince of Wales's Island
— Amie's Mill — Malacca — China — The River Tigris — Canton.

ALEPIE.
From Cochin the back-water conducts along the coast as
far as Quilon. The next station is Alepie, about forty
miles south, and the approach from the back-water is
through a very narrow canal, about three miles long, with
high banks ; over which I counted, I think, eleven good
bridges. The town is built on both banks, towards the
sea, and contains a strange medley of people of all nations
and languages. Near the sea shore it becomes more open,
and Captain Gordon, of the Bombay engineers, Superin-
tendant of the Forests, had a capital house, built by the
Rajah, on the skirt of the town. This gentleman was very
kind and hospitable to passengers, and from him I have
received many civilities in my travels to and fro. It is a
very safe port, and ships might even weather the south-
west monsoon in it's roads, from the excessive softness of
the bottom ; being a light mud, instead of hard sand or
rocks, as are to be found in eveiy other part of this coast.

1817.] RKMINISCRNCES. 99

The largest timbers are also floated into the canal from
different parts of the forests, particularly from Trichoor
and Paiilghaiit, and kept ready for exportation in (|uanti-
ties on the sea-shore. The inhabitants of tliis place are
said to amount to twenty-six thousand, and the utmost
extent of the town to be seven miles in circumference. It
is a ])lace of considerable trade, from not being subject to
['Lnglish duties; the only port belonging to the English
being Cochin itself. The Cochin territories do not extend
much below Alepie; and the next stage, called Poorkaud,
about twelve miles southward, belongs to Travancore. The
whole liquid way being through a wide extended sheet
of paddy ground, with the grain just above the water ;
houses appearing every liere and there, with the water at
the very doors ; and hundreds of canoes plying in every
direction, some actually little larger than an English
butcher's tray, though holding two or three people. Their
management of these boats is, indeed, scarcely credible ;
since no European could navigate any of them without
an upset. In these cockle-shells do whole families move
about on their daily occupations ; and the grain, when
ripe, is cut in the same manner, being generally, at high
water, above the height of a man. At my first visit to
this out-of-the-way place, I counted fifty of the small
canoes just mentioned, on the landing-place, in a spot which
would not contain above a dozen English wherries. The
town is situated on the sea-shore, and is entirely native ;
the principal houses apparently going to ruin ; but it has a
good bazar, a Pagoda, in which Europeans are permitted
to put up, and some excellent tobacco, pepper, and grain
H 2

100 MILITARY [A.D.

warehouses. The slip of land on which it stands is, how-
ever, so extremely low and narrow, that I should fear the
effects of any sudden convulsion ; the slightest storm even
would most likely make a fresh opening here between the
sea and the back-water, which must in the outset prove
fatal to many, if not all the inhabitants.

QUILON.
The back-water, which conducts the traveller from Chet-
wah to Quilon, is nowhere deeper or more easy of access
than at the southern extremity, which terminates in the
very town, and within a mile of the sea. This station, the
head-quarters of the subsidiary force in Travancore and
Cochin, is situated on the sea-shore, between the sea and
the back-water, in Latitude eight degrees, fifty-four mi-
nutes North, and Longitude seventy-seven degrees East.
The town is large and irregular, but with good roads
through it, and the site low and sandy, which renders it
extremely sultry ; I am, indeed, inclined to think it one of
the most trying climates in the Peninsula, for the nights
are always oppressive. The cantonment is extensive, and
contains temporary barracks for one thousand European
infantry ; places of arms -for three native corps, and an
excellent barrack for one hundred European artillery ; but
no place for the performance of Divine Service, though
an English Clergyman actually forms a part of the esta-
blishment ; and this privation is the more felt, from it's
proximity to several large Roman Catholic Churches. The
Residency, about a mile inland, on the margin to the back-
water, is one of the loveliest spots in the world ; and the

1817.] Ul^MlNISGKNCKS. 101

gioiinds, which arc extensive, and beautifully laid out,
contain, on an elevation in the centre, a Palace, with every
kind of accommodation for a large family. The windows
command one of the loveliest and most diversified pros-
pects in nature ,• and the garden contains every fruit and
vegetable which the heat of the climate will permit extra-
ordinary labour and skill to rear. Lieutenant-colonel John
Munro, an old acquaintance and brother ofKcer of mine,
was Resident at the time of my first visit : he also per-
formed the arduous duties of Dewaun, or Prime Minister,
for many months ; and to his able administration the poor
people are indebted for many of the blessings they are
j)ermitted to enjoy, under a government hitherto despotic.
The cause of religion was also materially forwarded during
liis administration; and the Protestant Christians cherished
and supported under a Hindoo government, I shall, how-
ever, have occasion to enter more fully on this subject at a
future period.

The Commandant's house,* also belonging to the
Ranee, or Queen of Travancorc, is adjoining the Residency,
and a very excellent one it is ; whilst the facility of visiting
all the distant posts by means of the back-water, with the
capital accommodations at each, altogether render this

* Colonel Sewell, of His Majesty's 89th regiment, was in command
of tlie subsidiary force, when I first visited Quilon; I had previously
served under his command for a short time at Bangalore ; and at a later
period, when he was a general Officer on the staff", in the centre division,
I commanded Vellore, one of the stations within his range. As he still
lives, I will add only, that as a visitor, I received many marks of atten-
tion from him ; and, as a Commandant, he was kind, considerate, and
impartial.

102 MILITARY [A.D.

command most desirable. The fort of Tangancherry is about
two miles north-westward of the cantonment, and having
been built on a commanding cliff projecting into the sea, it
must have been very strong ; though it has now long been
dismantled. The natural productions of this country,
which extends down to Cape Comorin, are nearly similar
to those of every other part of the Malabar coast ; vege-
tables such as Europeans eat, are very scarce and difficult to
rear, from the nature of the soil, which, however, produces
cocoa-nut, jack, cashew, mango, plantain, oil-nut, guavah,
and a variety of other trees, in abundance ; and, amongst
the rest, one called pyeny, which yields a gum varnish,
little, if at all inferior, to the copaul. The forests also
abound in the finest teak, black-wood, iyony, or moun-
tain jack, and other timbers. The back-water, which is
regularly acted upon by the tides, teems with fish of every
description, having alligators and otters into the bargain ;
and wild fowl, of course, abound on it's surface, par-
ticularly in places where the grain is growing above
high-water-mark. The land also produces two distinct
species of black tigers, and an enormous brown and
yellow squirrel, in addition to all the common quadru-
peds of India. The tigers are, one kind with streaks, like
a royal monster, and the other with spots like a panther :
though these distinctions can be observed in a strong
light only, so very jetty black is the skin. They are di-
minutive, but excessively fierce and strong, not hesitating
to attack any thing they meet ; whereas the tigers of other
regions would rather avoid mankind, when in any number,
and seldom attack at all, unless suddenly encountered, or

I'SLS.J RKMINISCKNCFS. 103

famished, at the moment. This I can vouch, from positive
experience, on more than one occasion. The bazars are
ill supplied, having rarely mutton or beef, and seldom any
kind of game. The only species of wild duck to be found
in Travancore and Cochin, is the whistling or red teal, of
which there is a great abundance ; but they have a very
large bittern in the marshes, which is the finest bird, in
India, to eat. It is worthy of remark, that there is not
such a thing as a partridge, in this whole tract of country^
indeed, from Cape Comorin up to Mangalore, a distance of
four hundred miles, no partridges can exist in a wild state.
The reason I cannot tell, but many have been brought and
set loose, without success : though across the southern
lines, near Cape Comorin, they are plenty and common.
The jungles however, contain a substitute for sportsmen, in
the spur-fowl; which as well as pea-fowls, deer, elks, &c.,
are very abundant. The sea fish are as excellent as they
are numerous and diversified ; and mullets, which are
reckoned inferior on the eastern coast, are delightful at
Quilon. My remarks respecting vegetation, are confined to
the Cantonment and it's vicinity, for there is not a more
fertile country in the world, than the interior of this coast ;
grain grows in the most luxuriant manner, generally twice,
and in some parts, thrice a year, in a soil that would pro-
duce any vegetable, which can grow in a warm climate :
but there being no Europeans in the interior, to require or
encourage the trial, nothing has yet been attcmi)ted, out of
the common way; and accustomed as the generality of the
natives are, to live on the coarsest and simplest food,
luxuries seldom enter into their heads.

When Quilon was first made a military station, the

104 MILITARY [A.D.

roads were all heavy, from the sandy nature of the soil,
though at the suggestion of the British Resident, the
Ranee has lately caused capital high roads to be formed,
at an enormous expense, in every direction; the whole
materials being transported from a distance on carts, by a
large body of convicts, superintended by her own troops.
This place, although I have pronounced it extremely sultry,
is reckoned a healthy station ; the range of the thermo-
meter being very small, and the average being nearly
eighty degrees all the year round : though it may be sup-
posed, that in a country so extensive, there must be a con-
siderable variety of temperature, in different parts. Cochin,
Alepie, and Quilon, being all in low sandy situations, are
by far the hottest ; and Trevanderam and Trichoor, in
opposite directions, being the coolest stations.

CALICUT.
I pass over a series of movements, up and down this
coast, which were generally made for the purpose of en-
joying the field sports, and return to Calicut, where, on the
25th of April, 1818, a most melancholy circumstance took
place. Mr. Pearson, the Zillah Judge, who lived in a large
house apart from any other, and whose compound had been
permitted to retain a portion of underwood for the purpose
of amusement with pointers and spaniels, was walking
about seven o'clock in the evening, attended by his dogs,
peons, &c., enjoying the evening air, when suddenly he
received a blow on the instep, and, looking down, perceived
a large snake making off. The effect was instantaneous,
he fell into the arms of his attendants, was carried into the
house, took a dose of eau de luce immediately, and sent off

1818.] REMINISCENCES. 105

for the Doctor, who ran half a mile to attend him. Half
an hour had now elapsed since the bite, and the Native
jugglers and snake-men had arrived and applied a snake-
stone to the wound, which was in actual adhesion, when
the Surgeon, scarifying the adjacent flesh, and pouring
eau de luce on it, caused the stone to fall off, which was
not again applied. A vein was also opened above the
wound, which produced blood in a very bad state ; a tight
ligature was then applied, the draught was repeated every
fifteen minutes, and till eleven no unfavourable symptoms
appeared : all at once, however, the throat became af-
fected, and his voice failed ; at half past twelve convul-
sions ensued, and the poor sufferer lingered unable to arti-
culate, till nine o'clock in the morning of the 26th, when he
expired. The body had changed colour long previous to
dissolution, and he had swallowed, altogether, nearly two
small bottles of eau de luce. The medical gentleman who
attended him, was a stranger lately arrived, and has since
followed his patient to the world of spirits. The snake,
which was not distinctly seen, escaped altogether, it being
dusk at the time ; but it left the marks of two fangs, an
inch and half asunder. A circumstance so uncommon
naturally gave rise to much discussion and enquiry, but
little information could be gained in the absence of positive
proof. It was generally supposed, that the reptile was a
large carpet snake, perhaps eight feet long, since a cobra
capella of the size described, would have had it's fangs
further apart; but we all know what effect terror has on
the minds of men, and I suspect that the size was greatly
exaggerated. I have several times in my life cured the

106 MILITARY [A.D.

tites of snakes, with various doses of eau cle luce, never
exceeding half a bottle ; and once in particular at Ceylon,
when an enormous cobra capella bit a sentinel. The man
was all but dead, having even a locked jaw, yet half a
small wine glass full, in two or three doses, restored him to
convalescence ; though he spat blood for some time after-
wards, from the strength of the medicine. On one occasion
in the field, when nothing stronger could be procured, I
administered brandy ; and on another, a large quantity of
Madeira, but in these cases I forced the patient into ac-
tion, as a material part of the cure. This same medical
gentleman was also constantly in the habit of administering
eau de luce successfully to the Natives, and actually took
a dose himself, immediately after the fatal infliction. The
ways of Providence are inscrutable to man.

We were told that even after death the Natives en-
treated to be permitted to try their skill, to restore anima-
tion ; this, of course, was refused; but in the first instance,
there was every appearance of success, from the adhesion
of the stone to the wound ; and it certainly was much to
be regretted, that it was not allowed a fair trial. I would
have followed up the internal medicine without disturbing
the external application; though opinions are still very
contradictory respecting it's efficacy. The stone is not
above an inch in diameter, very thin, and flat on one
side; when closely examined, it resembles a petrified bone,
although it has the highest polish, and at a distance, looks
like a small flint. The flat surface is applied to the cica-
trice, and only where there is poison will it adhere ; drop-
ping off immediately it has extracted the whole of the

.1818.] REMINISCLNCES. 107

venom. If it be then immersed in a tumbler of milk and
water, it voids the poison in large yellow bubbles, which
rise to the surface. I have seen it tried frequently and
most successfully with the sting of the largest scorpions,
but never on the bite of a snake ; though the large black
scorpion is said to kill as sure as the cobra capella. Mr.
Pearson was a man of independent fortune, in the prime of
life, and was preparing to return to his native land, in the
course of a few months. His untimely death threw a
damp over our small community, and his obsequies were
attended by all, with real concern.

CASTES.

Being about to quit the Malabar coast for some time, I
may as well take this opportunity of describing the extra-
ordinary distinctions of Caste that have prevailed from
time immemorial within it's limits; the rules of which
were formerly enforced to a most inhuman extent.

The Naires, who have precedence of all others, are, if
any thing, inferior to the Brahmins, but are a race of
beinos equally superior to the rest of the population in
stature, features, strength, and beauty of limbs ; and as
they never intermarry, or mix with any other caste, they
form, as it were, a distinct people. With the most exalted
notions of their own nobihty, these men are accustomed to
live like Princes, though upon very slender means. They
are still hospitable to a fault, and carry their munificence
to an extreme that has impoverished many a family.
Habituated from infancy to the use of arms, and fond to
excess of the wild sports of the field, they are the soldiers

108 MILITARY [A.D.

of the country, without the trammels of pay or disciphne ;
and from their mutual habits, and being inured to every
kind of fatigue and danger, have been known to make
the most surprising marches, and perform feats of the
utmost daring.

The next to them are the Teers ; then the Puneers,
Palhars, and Churmurs. A Teer, in days of yore, dared
not approach within thirteen feet of a Naire ; and, of
course, could not enter his house ; nor could any of the
inferior sects come within forty feet of a Teer, or fifty-three
feet of a Naire, Indeed, so absolute was the power of the
superior caste over the inferior, that a Naire meeting one
of them in a road, was authorized to cut him down, if he
encroached on the established distance. A long inter-
course with Europeans has. however, very materially soft-
ened those regulations, and no man dare attack the life
of another, however inferior ; but the feeling is still alive^
and at times discovers itself in the most annoying manner.
For instance, I was sitting at my window one morning at
Calicut, when a man of one of the three inferior castes, I
cannot distinguish them by sight, entered the public road
close to my house, which might be about twenty feet
broad, with hedges on both sides, and was several times
forced to return again, on perceiving a superior approaching
from the other end. I ought, however, to premise, that all
these inferiors, when turning a corner, are now obliged to
howl in a most unpleasant manner, to warn the superiors
of their sudden approach, and prevent contamination ; and
this unfortunate individual did certainly howl to such pur-
pose, that he attracted my attention to a scene as novel as

1818.] REMINISCENCES. 109

it was ludicrous. After some minutes wasted in fruitless
attempts to run to the other end, he seemed all at once
determined to make good his passage, and had actually
reached the centre of the line, it being about one hundred
yards, without any turning, or cross-road, the most con-
venient for these kind of gentry, when a Nairchee, or female
Naire, met, and called out to him to abscond. He turned
to fly, but found himself followed by a Teer. Thus placed
between two fires, he appeared to waver in doubtful medi-
tation ; when, all at once, raising his voice to an extra
pitch, he told the Teer to make way for the smiling
beauty, or he should run over and pollute him in his
retreat. I must own, I was at first at a loss to guess how
the struggle would terminate ; but, on further considera-
tion, my mind confirmed his decision ; and the Teer, after
some short expostulation, was fain to make way for both.
Had these two come to an opposite decision, a more extra-
ordinary breach of their established etiquette must have
been the result, by the wife of the highest caste making
way for two of her inferiors at once ; for she would have
instantly scampered off, to avoid contamination from either ;
and it would probably have ended in something very un-
pleasant, from the extreme haughty spirit of this fine race
of heathens, who might not at the moment have weighed,
or considered the consequences of taking the law in their
own hands, instead of applying to British justice for as-
sured, but less severe and summary redress. The strange
procession then marched off in regular array ; viz. the Teer
in front, followed by the Puneer at forty feet distance, and
the Nairchee bringing up the rear, fifty-three feet behind

110 MILITARY [A.D.

him. Had this party been met by a single Naire, on their
retrograde route, I am really at a loss to guess how it
would have terminated; that no such untoward misfortune
befel them was evident, by the almost immediate re-appear^-
ance of the indefatigable Puneer, who, bellowing out lustily
as he turned the corner near my house, dashed on at a
furious rate, and at length disappeared at the opposite end
of the lane.

The mention of this circumstance to my friends of the
Civil service, led to an enquiry, by which I learned the
strange rules I have already stated ; and also to our ob-
serving more particularly in future, the effects in our
neighbourhood, as far as our humane laws would permit
their development. Very shortly afterwards we dis-
covered that a Teer, who kept a licensed shop, I think for
the sale of arrack, in a high road, which led from the one
I have mentioned to the Zillah Judge's house, then the
property of Sir John Forbes, successor to Mr. Pearson,
had gradually encroached on a road, originally upwards of
forty-feet broad, so as to be completely within the pre-
scribed distance. From the extreme breadth of the roads
for a small station, this had hitherto passed without notice ;
but having all our eyes about us, from the foregoing oc-
currence, we found out that this man was in the habit of
exacting money from every individual of the lower tribes,
who had occasion to pass that way, under a pretext that
they were encroaching on his natural limits. I need
scarcely add, that this most unjustifiable tax required only
to be known to be abolished. The Teers, who are a numer-
ous, handsome, and intelligent race, are almost exclusively

1818.] RRMINISCENCES. Ill

employed by Europeans as servants of every description :
neither of the three inferior castes being ever admitted as
domestics; their business being to till the ground, collect
and sell fire-wood, charcoal, &,c.

Whilst on the subject of caste distinctions, I must men-
tion a still more extraordinary race, called the Nayaree,
or Niaree, the lowest and most abject of human beings,
who inhabit the jungles and wild uncultivated parts of
this coast, and are even far inferior to the Native Ben-
galees, below Calcutta, or the Bheels near Surat, in
appearance and stature. They are nearly jet black, with
bushy hair, and features approaching to the CaftVes ; have
a language of their own, never build houses, or wear any
clothing, and dare not, on any pretence, approach any
other inhabitant of the coast. They live on trees, in
bushes, or in holes in the ground ; are little above brutes
in intellect, or at all events in it's display. They crawl to
the road side, or to a certain distance from a habitation,
deposit something, such as a bundle of twigs, some wild
berries, or a honey-comb, set up a loud and hideous shriek
or scream, and then retire to a sufficient distance, to watch
the result ; when the nearest person either converses with
them at a distance on the exchange, or at once deposits
what may serve their purpose, and gets out of the way, to
enable them to approach and carry off their supplies,
without personal contact. I had remarked them several
times in my travels, before I had an opportunity of ascer-
taining the above particulars from a Native, who could
converse in Hindoostanee ; and I afterwards had the plea-
sure, in company with Mr. Baber, of not only assisting

112 MILITARY [A.D.

them in the common way, but of raising them in their own
estimation, by an unreserved intercourse, and employing
them for some days on a shooting excursion ; when we also
engaged Naires and Teers, as interpreters. Touching them
ourselves, we easily persuaded our attendants to do the
same; and at the same time purchased and exchanged
trifles, and gave them daily payment for their labours in
the jungle. The high estimation in which Mr. Baber stood
with the Natives, operating against their long-estabhshed
prejudices, two young Naires, of most respectable parent-
age, were the foremost in shewing their kindness to these
miserable outcasts ; and they, consequently, became most
useful in scouring the thickest jungles, where no other
naked mortals would have dared to venture, and drove the
game towards us in all directions. They also made small
baskets, ropes, &c., which they brought for sale every
morning, and which, though rude, and, to us, perfectly
useless, we took, to encourage them in habits of industry.
The two Naires I have mentioned, named Keeloo and
Konnon, were both very promising lads, well versed in the
Bible, and appeared to wish to profess Christianity.

PRINCE OF WALES'S ISLAND.
Being forced by a severe attack of liver complaint early
in this year, to proceed to China, via Madras, to which I
travelled by easy stages, I shall pass over the land
journey to the Presidency and the first part of the voyage
to Prince of Wales's Island, once the property of my de-
ceased father-in-law, Mr. Francis Light, the first Governor ;
whose offspring, then in infancy, have lived to see every

^j!H

^^mr-.

112 MILITARY [A.D.

them in the common way, but of raising them in their own
estimation, by an unreserved intercourse, and employing
them for some days on a shooting excursion ; when we also
engaged Naires and Teers, as interpreters. Touching them
ourselves, we easily persuaded our attendants to do the
same; and at the same time purchased and exchanged
trifles, and gave them daily payment for their labours in
the jungle. The high estimation in which Mr. Baber stood
with the Natives, operating against their long-established
prejudices, two young Naires, of most respectable parent-
age, were the foremost in shewing their kindness to these
miserable outcasts ; and they, consequently, became most
useful in scouring the thickest jungles, where no other
naked mortals would have dared to venture, and drove the
game towards us in all directions. They also made small
baskets, ropes, &c., which they brought for sale every
morning, and which, though rude, and, to us, perfectly
useless, we took, to encourage them in habits of industry.
The two Naires I have mentioned, named Keeloo and
Konnon, were both very promising lads, well versed in the
Bible, and appeared to wish to profess Christianity.

PRINCE OF WALES'S ISLAND.
Being forced by a severe attack of liver complaint early
in this year, to proceed to China, via Madras, to which I
travelled by easy stages, I shall pass over the land
journey to the Presidency and the first part of the voyage
to Prince of Wales's Island, once the property of my de-
ceased father-in-law, Mr. Francis Light, the first Governor;
whose offspring, then in infancy, have lived to see every

1818.] KlvMlNlSCKNCKS. \]^

inch of ground and even his houses alienated Worn tlu lu ;
but I am not writing a jirivate history. Having embarked
in the London East Indiaman, Captain AValter Campbell,
in July, we made the land on tlie morning of the 2nd of
August, and anchored in the harbour of Pulo Penang at
three o'clock, P.M. Approaching this island from the
westward, a vast mountain first presented itself to view,
covered with thick jungle to the water's edge. As the ship
advances, rocks and breakers apj)ear below in the centre,
while the extremes gradually retire to a certain distance, and
then break off abruptly, leaving an apparently circidar, but
every where inaccessible island. On nearing the northern
extremity, which must be passed to obtain an entrance
into the harbour, sundry other islands rise into view, both
ahead, and on the larboard bow, with the mountains of
Quedah in the distance. A flag-staff and some buildings
are then discovered on the summit of the first mountain,
and advancing still further, a long flat sand is perceived in
the foreground, covered with houses and vegetation, and a
smaller hill projecting into the sea, with a signal-staff, Sec.
on it. The ship then turns into the harbour, and anchors
within musquet shot of Fort Cornwallis, and the surround-
ing town ; and the external view is certainly most imposing
and picturesque. The Malay coast is now on the opposite
side of the panorama, distant about three miles; and what
is termed the harbour is discovered to be a strait, open at
both ends, running nearly north and south, and perfectly
safe and navigable the whole way.

The fort, on examination, proves to be a small square,
with good sized angular bastions, ca])able of mounting

VOL. 11. I

114 MILITARY [A.D.

several guns, and with a tolerable ditch, outside of which,
on the sea face, is a breastwork en Cremalier. Against the
Natives, it is formidable enough, but it could not stand
many hours against any European adversary ; and I there-
fore wonder why Commodore Sercey when in the zenith
of his power, never attempted to wrest it from us. Nothing
but their ignorance of it's weakness, could have prevented
this Indian Paradise from falling into the hands of the
French, when, being our only possession between Bengal
and China, it was of such essential consequence to the
English nation ; and in fact, the only safe port for their
navy besides Bombay, in the whole Eastern seas. The
town is large, regular, and well-built, and is, upon the whole,
a very pleasant place ; the climate being mild, temperate,
and healthy. The markets, which are abundantly sup-
pHed, are kept by Chinese, in regular streets; and, indeed,
the whole work of the island appears to be chiefly done by
these industrious people, who, out of their own country,
make the best subjects in the world. The European
gentlemen have neat garden-houses at various distances
from the town; and there are also a few most delightfully
situated, on and near the summit of the mountain, ycleped
the Highlands, to which an excellent foot-path leads the
whole way.

I do not know the exact girth of the island, but, as far
as an invalid could observe, I think the level ground ex-
tends generally four or five miles inland, and then the
ascent commences. When Mr. Light took possession of
it, in 1787, the whole was covered to the water's edge
with an almost impenetrable jungle ; and, it's being unin-

1818.] RKMINISCF.NCES. 115

habited, of course, added to the obstacles in the way of
converting it into what it now is, one of the loveliest and
most fertile spots in the universe. The underwood has
been gradually cleared away, marshes drained, high roads
constructed in every direction, useful plantations raised,
and an unprofitable and insalubrious wilderness trans-
formed into a garden. The produce of the island being
similar to that of the whole Malay Peninsula, I need not
enumerate the articles ; but it is said to be free of all
venomous reptiles, indigenous to every other part of India.
Having somewhat recovered during a week's residence on
shore, I was enabled to visit a few places of note in the
vicinity, and shall give tlie result, in the same order as
they occurred.

On the 10th of August I went to Amie's Mill, erected
by a Chinese merchant, close to a small mountain stream,
about five miles from the town. Understanding that there
was also a tavern on the spot, a party of us went out
before breakfast, and found a capital house, but devoid of
furniture; the poor industrious owner having been nearly
ruined, by the non-payment of numerous quondam guests,
who ate and drank in his hotel, but forgot to leave any
equivalent in return. At length, most wisely determining,
that an empty house was better than such bad company,
he removed to the mill and store-rooms contiguous. To
these, therefore, our attention was turned, and the examin-
ation fully rewarded our pains. The mills are constructed
in succession, on the declivity of a narrow dell, so that the
water, conducted to them by a long wooden trough, turns
each wheel as it descends witli increasing velocity. In
I 2

116 MILITARY [A.D.

these the corn is first ground to powder, then sifted and
separated by the action of one wheel, on different ma-
chines, and, lastly, the whole is immersed in water, and
the chaff collected in baskets, leaving the flour and rol-
long * ready for use. Rice is also reduced to powder, by
heavy beaters, four of which are worked by one wheel.
Here, forming an acquaintance with a number of Chinese
millers, we invited ourselves to their homely breakfast, and
actually sat down at the same rude table with them, and
tried to eat plain boiled rice, and a little grilled salt fish,
with chop-sticks ; but though they set us a cheerful and
capital example, it was like the feast of the fox and the
stork, for not a morsel of either could we contrive to
convey by them to our mouths. The owners very good-
naturedly rallied and laughed at us for some time, when
one of them rose and went out, returning shortly with an
old broken pewter spoon, and three or four pieces of wood,
cut into spatula, with which we contrived to make a good
meal ; and at parting rewarded them, to their no small
astonishment, with as much as their master would have
charged for an English breakfast. The spot selected for
this most useful work was truly interesting, the whole
being surrounded by beautiful trees.

From the mills we proceeded to the garden of Nonyah
Yeen, a daughter of the King of Quedah, where we were
desired to help ourselves to whatever we should fancy;

* RoUong, all over India, is the name given to the heart of the w^heat;
of which alone bread is made, and it is used for all culinary purposes.
Boiled in milk and water, and served like porridge, which it much re-
sembles, the name is then changed to Soojee.

1818.] RK.MINISCENCF.S. 117

and, after reoaling ourselves accordingly, I selected a
branch of the delicious niangosteen, a tree which very
much resembles the mango, tliough the fruit is unlike any
other I have ever seen or tasted in the East ; and is by far
superior to all but the lately grafted raspberry-mango of
the Carnatic, and that is not generally known.

Our next visit was to Sutlblk, three miles in the interior,
where 1 had the pleasure of breakfasting with Colonel
Bannernian, the Governor, my old connnanding officer in
1795, whom I had not seen for two-and-twenty years, and
who had kindly visited me while confined to the house.
He did not long survive, but fell a victim to the elTects of
an Indian climate on an aged frame, after a retirement to
Europe of eighteen years. This has frequently happened
within my own acquaintance; whereas, old Indians, who
survive the first twelve-months of return to their native
land, and remain there, mostly become evergreens, and
flourish to a very old age. Colonel Bannernian was a brave,
smart, and intelligent soldier ; had held many respectable
situations in India, and when elected a Director in Eng-
land, still continued the friend of the Madras army. The
valuable estate of Suffolk, once the private property of
Mr. Light, and his favourite residence, is one of the pret-
tiest spots T have ever beheld. In the midst of a fine exten-
sive lawn, surrounded by majestic trees, and a box hedge,
with a clear brook meandering through the centre, stands
the noble and commodious house, with a park and aviary
in it's front, and the hill gradually receding in the back
ground, crowned with wood of the richest foliage. Italy
itself could not produce a more verdant or lovely land-

lis MILITARY [A.D.

scape; and, to add to it's unique attractions, the principal
trees in the avenues leading from different directions to the
house, were all nutmeg, actually loaded with fruit, much
resembling a large apricot. It was here that I took my
leave of the worthy tenant for ever in this world.

Our last visit was on the morning of the 14th, to Mr.
Scott's bungalow, on the brow of the hill, called the High-
lands, about two-thirds of the way up to the Governor's
upper mansion ; it is really a beautiful spot, commanding a
most picturesque and diversified prospect, uniting sea and
land in one bird's-eye panoramic view, in which the town
and harbour were the most conspicuous objects. The road,
which is very steep, is about two miles long, from the foot
of the mountain to the entrance into this ground. This I
performed on an Atcheen pony, being still too weak to
climb, though I contrived to walk down in the evening,
leaning on two friends, rather than run the risque of a
broken neck. Here we spent a very agreeable day, in a
temperate climate, in company with a very amiable young
couple.

The conveyances of the inhabitants of this island, are
much behind any thing I ever beheld in any other part of
India. Those for hire, consist of an ill-made and not very
comfortable litter on four wheels, called a Palanquin, with
one or two diminutive ponies in the shafts, or to the poles,
and an ill-dressed black fellow, running or rather walking
alongside, driving at the rate of three or four miles an
hour. The hire of one of these is three Spanish dollars
per day ; these and copper, being the only current coin of
the country, must make every thing proportionably dear.

1818.] RliMlNISCliNCKS. 119

copper being held in little estimation, by any Europeans
in the East. As at Ceylon, there are no sheep on the
island, they being inii)orted and fed by individuals for
home consumption ; fowls and fish are abundant, but dear ;
the bread is capital; butter in general very bad; and
fruit and vegetables reasonable. The ground is tilled by
buffalos also imported, which are a race of giants, in pro-
portion to those in other parts of India, and cost from two
to four hundred Spanish dollars each. I hardly saw a good
horse, while on shore. The dorian, a fruit much resembling
a hedgehog, and the chumpadore, like a maldivie or diminu-
tive jack, are the most nauseous things I ever tasted ; par-
ticularly the former. The latter tastes like a mixture of
jack and garlic ; yet such is the power of habit, that they
are held in high estimation by all residents to the eastward,
Europeans as well as Natives.

On the 18th of August we continued our voyage, not
returning by the western entrance, but proceeding by the
southern end of the harbour. Our passage to Malacca was
tedious from casual and light airs ; but nothing extraordi-
naiy occurred till Monday night, the 24th, when, during a
tremendous thunder storm, our fore-top mast and top-gal-
lant mast were shivered to pieces by the same flash, and
we were compelled to anchor ; the lightning descending
the fore rigging, ran down the hatchway into the hold
amono-st some water casks, returning by the iron cable to
the gun-deck, from whence it must have taken it's course
along this able conductor out at the hawse hole, into the
sea. Great apprehensions were at first entertained, that
the ship was on fire ; as soon as these subsided, the shat-

120 MILITARY [A.D.

tered masts were taken down, and new ones fitted and
rigged by noon next day; so that the Commodore who was
far astern, was most likely not even aware of our accident.
The Almighty hand which had dealt this blow, tempered it
with mercy ; and not a single erring mortal was called to
his dread account, though hundreds were thus warned of
their eternal danger.

MALACCA.
On the morning of the 27th of August, we came in sight
of Malacca, and anchored in the roads at three, P. M.,
two miles off shore. The appearance of the town, and in-
deed the whole shore, from the offing is beautiful, but the
expectation thus held out, is not reahzed on landing, and it
is in no way to be compared with Penang. Situated on a
narrow strip of land, extremely low, with a muddy beach
to the westward, and a wide and dreary-looking swamp to
the east, it is appuyed on a nasty muddy river to the
south, within a few miles of the equator, nor can I conceive
a worse place for the residence of Europeans. Indeed, I
should consider even a month's stay in such a situation a
heavy punishment ; yet we find men who have preferred
Malacca, after a short residence, to any other part of India;
such is the power of habit. A party of us landed in
the evening and took up our abode at a tavern, kept by
Mr. Brooke, an Englishman, in the only good street of the
town. Some others lodged at a Dutchman's in the same
street, all the back windows of which looked into the sea :
the houses have large wooden stair-cases from the back
yard down to the mud, which is left at every ebb of the

1818.] REMINISCENCES, 121

tide, for several hundred yards from the shore, and in
which from it's extreme depth, no animals can walk ;
though being washed by the sea, boats land at these stairs
at high water.

The town is long and narrow, having at the northern
extremity a fine College erected by subscription ; most
liberally commenced by the Reverend Doctor Morrison of
Canton. At the time we were there, a Dutch Governor
had just arrived from Europe, in a sixty-four gun ship,
full of troops, anchored about three miles from the shore,
where he waited authority from the Enghsh Resident,
who was absent, to assume charge of the place ; the shoal
water at the ebb not admitting of a nearer approach.

On the 29th, a party of English gentlemen set out on a
shooting excursion, at gun-fire in the morning, in a small
country boat up the river ; we got about four miles on a
narrow dirty stream, into the interior, then landing, took
possession of a Malay hut, in which we breakfasted on
cheese, beef, pork, and spruce beer : after which we saun-
tered about, exploring for game or curiosities, but were
disappointed in both ; and after allowing our boat people
to rest and eat a meal, returned to town, arriving at four
o'clock, P. M. The day was extremely oppressive, and we
met with nothing to repay the exposure. There are not any
good roads, and little dry or solid ground, that we could
perceive, in the interior. All appeared a flat marsh, here
and there converted into paddy ground, and a few miser-
able huts, with some trees growing near them on dry spots.
I never saw a place of such little interest in India : we at-
tempted to converse with the few inhabitants we met, but.

122 MILITARY [A.D.

though all were civil and good natured, our languages
would not agree.

On Sunday the 30th, we attended divine worship, in a
large Church fast going to decay. The service was per-
formed in English by the Reverend Mr. Milne, a most
amiable Protestant Missionary, and Superior of the College
at the opposite end of the town. The Government House
is close to this Church at the foot of a small hill, on the
south side of the river. We were obliged to re-embark
this evening. The charge for three days Uving at the
tavern was ten dollars each, and we had company with us,
this was moderate ; but a Malay charged half a dollar a
day for meals for my butler, Gholaum Hyder, who accom-
panied me ; which I thought very exorbitant.

CHINA.

Nothing remarkable occurred till we reached the mouth
of the river Tigris, on the 27th of September, previous to
which a relapse of illness had laid me on my beam ends,
and I could make few remarks till the 29th, when we
passed through the Bocka Tigris. This was really a novel
and gratifying sight ; all the richest colours in the universe
being displayed in the verdure of the shore, and the gay
trappings of the boats, houses, and inhabitants, with which
this fine river is decorated.

On the 30th we reached the anchorage at Wampao, and
moored the ship in the midst of a dense fleet, covering the
surface of the water to an incredible extent. The river is
here narrow, and crowded with Chinese craft, independent
of European vessels ; whilst the shore, which is low on

1818.] REMINISCRNOES. 123

both sides, is adorned with the richest verdure. The
mind of mortal can scarcely imagine so busy and gaudy a
scene.

On the 1st of October I reached Canton, wliere I was
most kindly received by Sir Theophilus Metcalf, Chief of
the English Supercargoes, whose guest I became.

CANT(W,
The principal resort of Europeans in China, about nineteen
miles above Wampao, is situated on the left bank of the
Tigris, which is said to be navigable for ships seventy
miles, and for boats five hundred miles, further up. The
town is of an irregular form, following the windings of the
river. It's exact extent I had no means of ascertaining ;
but, from every observation I could make, I think it is five
miles in length and two in breadth ; and the European
Factories occupy a site of about three hundred square
yards. The houses are all built in the English style, with
fire-places, painted or papered wainscot walls, glass win-
dows, and European furniture. A single house in the
front row marks the breadth of each factory, and through
it is the only entrance to a succession of seven or eight
buildings, running perfectly parallel in the rear. Some
are two, and others three stories in height ; and no Euro-
peans live on the ground floor. These houses are variously
divided ; some by stories, others in the middle, to form
separate habitations ; and every building has four outer
doors, two on each side the entrance, which is arched
over, to support the centre of the house ; so that persons
living under the same roof, may be as entirely separate and

124 MILITARY [A.D.

Strangers to each other, as if they lived in different Facto-
ries.* The roofs are all pent, and covered with very small
round tiles; and the out-houses, which are generally
kitchens, or cook-rooms, terraced. As each house has two
small compounds, one on each side, one is generally half,
or entirely open, in which small flower pots are arranged
on both sides near the wall, with dwarf fruit trees and
flowers, the property of a Chinese gardener, who receives
two dollars per month for furnishing and replacing them
when decayed. These are the gardens of the Factories ;
and you may sometimes see two people walking abreast, in
one of these evergreen bowers, five or six paces being the
length, and their elbows brushing the dew off the minikin
trees on either side, to give an idea of the breadth. In
this confined space reside a population, including Euro-
peans, Americans, Asiatics, Natives, and Armenians, of at
least one thousand men, not a woman being permitted to
enter. Some houses contain only one master, with various
domestics; others have six, and even eight, with all their
attendants ; each letting for the season for from five hun-
dred to one thousand Spanish dollars; that is, from the
end of September till March, when all foreigners are
obliged to quit Canton, and must either reside in their
ships at Wampao, or go down to Macao, a Portuguese
settlement at the mouth of the river. There are two Fac-
tories appropriated entirely to the accommodation of the
British Supercargoes, and their friends ; these are the best

* Tlie whole of the Factories, with great part of the town of Canton,
have since been totally destroyed by fire ; but were immediately rebuilt,
on precisely the same plan as they were before the accident.

1818.] RKMINISCKNCRS. 125

and cleanest ; but however dirty the approaches and pas-
sages into the others may be, they are all commodious and
good, when once fairly entered. The Factors of the other
European nations have each one, and their flags are
hoisted in front of each entrance. These buildings, and a
great part of the ground and houses contiguous, having
been gradually stolen from the river, and built on ])iles, at
the spring tide a fine lawn in front is covered with water,
to the very high road which leads to all. The extremes
of three-fourtlis of this square village are entirely built up,
without any outlet; and might, therefore, be defended
by their present inhabitants against the whole ])opulation
of Canton ; but they are consequently exposed to a much
more imminent danger from fire. Although I can form no
correct estimate of the population of Canton, I am in-
clined to think that no town in the world, even four times
it's extent, contains an equal number of inhabitants : they
literally swarm. They are by no means so evil-disposed
towards Europeans as I had been led to believe ; on the
the contrary, I believe all respect the English in particular,
in their hearts; and all those who could speak English,
made no hesitation in abusing their own villanous Tartar
government, and praying that we would invade the coun-
try ; assuring me that we should be joined by the mass of
a population, groaning under the lash of tyranny and op-
pression. I am induced to think that the Chinese are not
so naturally quick, as they are plodding and persevering.
No man in Canton has yet learned to make, or even repair
a watch; many can repair large clocks, and they can
imitate every thing, not complicated, in the most surpris-

126 MILITARY [A.D.

ing manner. Neither are they, by any means, the good
accountants I had been given to understand; since, in their
pecuniary transactions with Europeans, they generally fur-
nish the items only, and leave the summing up of the
whole to the abilities and honour of their customers. In-
deed, I never in my life met with such unlimited confidence
and credit amongst strangers, as are to be found in every
shop in Canton. Unknown to any one of them, and
having commissions from several friends to execute, I
made purchases to a considerable amount in different
shops ; and all they ever asked me was, " You, what
Factory ?" The reply written down, " English Factory,
No. 6," was full and satisfactory. The articles were
sure to arrive, but no bill delivered, nor any subse-
quent demand made for payment, so that I might have
quitted the place without settling any accounts, and
was actually forced to call, and insist on each send-
ing in his bill, and calling for payment before a cer-
tain hour. Even then, at the moment of adjustment,
although "the individual charges were exorbitant, many
would have cheated themselves in the summing up, had I
not proved their errors in calculation with my pen, against
their string of balls. Whatever credit I am inclined to ac-
cord them for confidence in the European character, I am,
however, by no means willing to return the compliment ; for
I consider them all dishonest and knavish in their dealings,
and had many proofs of this in men of the fairest cha-
racter, who were particularly recommended to me by old
inhabitants, but who, nevertheless, cheated me in the most
barefaced manner: the fault of education, no doubt.

1818.] UKMINISCENCFS. 127

The Chinese are, indeed, the most debauched and immoral
nation on the face of the earth, and also the most filthy in
their feeding; eating indiscriminately every thing that has
life, from the bull down to the worm and cock-roach ; and
their messes, resembling stews, are so very offensive, that
the smell suffices to turn a common stomach : but what is
more extraordinary, they eat these cliow-ihow with two
chop-sticks, which they use with one hand, so cleverly, as
to make them hold meat, and even gravy ! something like
eating with a pair of pincers.

In boats they greatly excel, having such a command of
fine timber ; but the tale of the inhabitants residing in
their floating barges, is really incredible. I was assured
that many hundred thousands live entirely on the surface
of the water, mooring their buoyant houses in thick
phalanxes, either in the centre of the stream, or along the
shore, as fancy or inclination dictates ; leaving generally
barely room sufficient for a boat to pass through them on
either side ; and I have actually gone miles up the river,
above Canton, through these strange avenues. All wed-
dings are celebrated on the water, and with much pomp.
There are, also, boats of accommodation, superbly fitted
up for parties of pleasure, where the voluptuary may
enjoy his bottle and the society of his friend and lass,
without suffering further than in purse, body, and mind.
These are called flower-boats, and most alluring they ap-
pear ; though the fruits which they produce are too often
disease and death.

Of the public buildings I can say little; there is a mix-
ture of solidity and gaudy tinsel in most of them, thougli

128 MILITARY [A.D.

some of the Pagodas are ten stories high ; I did not see the
interiors, but their outsides seldom have any particular
decorations. Their Temples, or Joss Houses, as they call
them, are numerous, and capital buildings ; but disfigured
and disgraced by the most disgusting images : indeed
every house and boat has a small altar piece, on which they
burn Joss-sticks, sandal wood, and incense continually.
The large annual imports of sandal from different parts of
India, are nearly all consumed in this manner; as a
Chinese thinks, that the thicker and finer the log he thus
offers to the Deity, the more propitious will that Deity
prove to him and his.

On the 5th of October I crossed the river in company
with the Reverend Mr., now Doctor, Morrison, whose ac-
quaintance I had been so fortunate as to make in the English
factory, and the Reverend Mr. Slater, my shipmate from
Malacca. We immediately proceeded to the Great Temple,
in which Lord Amherst's embassy had been lodged on
the return from Pekin, which is pleasantly situated in an
extensive garden, and of enormous extent, containing
some hundred different apartments. The centre rooms
which are extremely large, are the residence of the principal
images ; the smaller ones being appropriated to the Priests
and other attendants, biped and quadruped, of this
heathen Cathedral. The chief entrance is through several
porticos, not much unlike those over the gates of Mussul-
man Mausoleums, in various parts of India ; and the
guard-rooms on either side of them contain each an
enormous image in the outer, and two similar, in the
inner ones. These they call the door-keepers and porters

1818.] REMINISCENCKS. 129

to the superior Gods in the sanctuary. I cannot recollect
how many porticos, or how many separate temples there
are in the whole enclosure ; but I think we saw at least
thirty large images, and many small ones. However, the
Saitctu/fi Saudonon contains three Gods only, one past,
one present, and the other to come ; with twenty-four dis-
ciples of the first, ranged on both sides, the whole covered
with gilding and rich ornaments. Here is likewise an
immense kettle-drum to call the people to prayers ; and
other curious hollow wooden instruments, played on with
large drum-sticks. There are also lamps, with candles
and incense burning before every image throughout tlie
buildings, and vases filled with artificial flowers on each
side of the altars. Massy book-cases containing their
sacred volumes are likewise placed in rows on both sides,
at a short distance from the images, who generally occupy
a kind of box in the centre ; and I am informed, that
during the sojourn of the embassy within these holy walls,
the Gods were all locked up in their boxes, and remained
perfectly quiet and contented until their departure. A
religion that hangs so loosely, and which costs so much,
might surely be easily supplanted by Christianity and the
Scriptures. But to return to Joss House number one ;
there are about one hundred and fifty Priests who reside
there, each having a cell, with a cot, curtains, and other
conveniences, arranged in the sides of the apartment.
They have also numerous assembly-rooms, which are fitted
up with strong tables and chairs for public resort. There
are likewise ranges of kitchens, lumber-rooms, eating-
rooms, witii tables and benches, and smaller rooms, neatly

VOL. II. K

130 MILITARY [A.D.

furnished, for retirement and recreation. One part con-
tains printing apparatus, with all the types cut in wood ;
and they rapidly struck off several impressions for me,
which are still attached to my original Journal, and the
characters of which are uncommonly distinct and neat,
considering the rude implements with which they were
formed. One of the Priests observing how much we ad-
mired these types, went into another room and brought out
a number of small books, which he affirmed contained
charms against all the ills of humanity, and insisted on our
taking some. I took two pair, for every thing goes by pairs
in China ; the largest being, when folded up, three inches
long, and one inch and a quarter broad ; and the smaller,
one inch and half long, and half an inch broad ; each
contained a narrow slip of fine paper, several yards long,
covered with writing, in a pretty red character ; the ex-
tremes, being pasted to two pieces of sandal-wood, which,
when it is folded up, form the binding.

As every thing that has life is preserved in such a
sanctifi.ed place, where all subsist on vegetable productions
alone, many people make presents to this Temple of
birds, and beasts, and fishes, which are regularly fed and
cherished. The variety when we were there, however, was
not very great; we saw several pure white fowls, with
woolly feathers and black tufts on their heads, parading
the garden at one end, and at the other, a boy feeding two
or three dozens of small chickens. There were also a few
red and gold fishes, in large reservoirs, and several dogs ;
but the greatest curiosities of all were nineteen enormous
sows and boars, crowded together in a stone pig-stye.

1818.] RliMINISCRNCF.S. 131

wallowing in fat to such a degree, that their counlcmniccs
were completely obliterated, and the limbs resembled short
fins, totally incapable of supporting such a mass of blub-
ber. They all lay huddled together on their sides, unable
to rise, and panting for breath ; yet the Priests assured us,
that when their food was brought in, they could rise and
eat with alacrity. Contrasted with this group of unclean
monsters, we saw many cats and kittens indifferent ])arts
of the Temple, all of wliom were like Pharoalfs lean kine,
mere skin and bone ; a convincing proof that cats do not
thrive on a pure vegetable diet. Some of the Priests were
sleek and round ; but, generally speaking, they are also a
spare set, being, I suspect, ill fed and worse clothed ;
for their outward apparel was very rough and shabby,
consisting of a long robe of coarse black linen, with
breeches, shoes, and stockings, like other people. The
Superior and two or three others invited us to sit down in
different places, and take refreshments, consisting of tea,
sans sugar or milk, and various kinds of preserves ; one of
which, called dragon's eye, somewhat resembling the dried
liechees, is a very palatable fruit, even in it's present state.
Taking leave of these obsequious Pagans, whom we re-
warded for their hospitality, we proceeded through several
dirty, narrow lanes, to the garden-house of Pansequa, son
the late Hong Merchant, called by the English the 'Squire.
The owner was, unfortunately, absent, but his servants did
the honours of his house and grounds, which are multuin in
parvo. The former was on the ground floor, extensive,
and richly furnished ; the garden laid out witli great
care, and, I dare say, considerable expense, contained
numerous fruit and flower trees, in pots and boxes, ar-
K 2

132 MILITARY [A.D.

ranged in regular rows. There were also two ponds, a small
one, covered with lotus flowers, with a pelican in it ; and a
larger one, of tolerably clear water, on the surface of
which were a black and a white swan, several geese, and a
number of small white ducks, with white tufts on their
heads. We likewise saw three spotted deer, exactly similar
to those in India ; and after traversing the whole domain,
took our leave, and returned to Canton. I was much
pleased to see the ^deference and respect with which our
reverend conductor was treated wherever he went : a truly
pious and benevolent man is respected every where, and
beloved by all who possess any kindred feelings.

On the 22nd, receiving, with my kind host. Sir Theo-
philus Metcalf, an invitation from the 'Squire, to an
evening fete, to celebrate his son's having obtained a high
academic honour in the College, we accordingly assembled
together in a large party, and proceeded under an escort to
the opposite side, by torch-light ; there were about forty of
us, who were most politely received by our host, and
passed, by contrivance, through every room in the house,
and nearly all round the garden, before we reached the
temporary saloon prepared for our reception, which was
fitted up in a superior style, with seven or eight square
tables, formed en echellon at the farthest end ; beyond
which was a small court-yard, filled with sweet flowers,
and a stage erected at the opposite extremity, capable of
containing from three to four dozen actors. The arrange-
ment was so good, that all the guests could see the whole
performance while sitting at dinner, no one having his
back towards the stage. I had the good fortune to be in
the centre of the front table, exactly opposite, which

1818.] RI'MINISCliNCES. 133

enabled me to attend to the performance, whilst my com-
panions were eating the most nauseous things I ever smelt
in my life. Each table, which was about four feet square,
was literally covered with saucers, full of different made
dishes, which were exchanged about thirty times in the
course of three hours ; while small cups were constantly
replenished by the attendants, with sham-shoo, an abomin-
able liquor, resembling common arrack mixed witli sour
beer, and which, to my astouisinnent, was not only tasted,
but drank, by many of my countrymen. The master of
the house sat at one of the centre tables, with Sir Theo-
philus and four other guests; the son presided at our
table, next to that ; and these were the only two Chinese
who sat down with us the whole night. Our junior host, in
whose honour the feast was given, got beastly drunk, and,
when he fell from his chair, next to mine, was carried away
by his servants. He swallowed about three bottles of
Madeira, besides sham-shoo in abundance, believing that I
was pledging him all the time, while I did not swallow any
thing. After his departure the meats were removed, and
plain fruits introduced, on which I dined. We assembled
at half-past six o'clock, the acting commenced at seven,
and continued without intermission till half-past eleven,
when we all took French leave, not knowing how much
longer it might last. The landlord, when I last saw him,
was perfectly sober; so I conclude that the son's getting
drunk was sufficient for the academic honours he had
received

The ladies of the family, though Chinese etiquette
would not admit of their being out in public, were sepa-
rated from us by a thin screen only, and I could see their

134 MILITARY [A.D.

forms completely. They remained sjDectators the whole
time, although like some of our moral old English plays,
there were parts, which called a blush into my cheeks. To
me the language from beginning to end, was perfectly un-
intelHgible, but not so the acting. The stage was in a
blaze of light, from the numerous variegated lamps ; and
the first piece was a representation of a former Emperor's
court during a war with the Ladrones. The dresses of the
Emperor, his Queen, and several of the Mandarins, were
splendid beyond any thing of the kind I had ever beheld,
as they wore velvets and satins of various colours, richly
embroidered, with gold and silver crowns, turbans, 8tc.
and our host told me, that none of the robes cost less than
twenty dollars. There were altogether seven female cha-
racters, all personated to the life by boys, and considering
the parts some of them had to perform, this was highly
creditable to their sense of modesty. Two of them, famous
Amazons, who fought like furies, were the wife and abigail
of the chief of the Ladrones, at war with the Emperor, and
I never saw greater activity and boldness than they dis-
played. The male characters swelled the number to four
dozen. Battles, skirmishes, and single combats, were in-
troduced in succession, and the whole stage was enveloped
in fire and smoke, from crackers and squibs thrown over
from the green-room.

The next piece introduced a woman of intrigue, who
listened to the extraordinary courtship of a gay Lothario,
and, after deceiving her husband during many scenes,
at length poisoned him in a cup of tea. His throes and
agony, displayed by bellowing like a bull, and tumbling
about from his couch to the floor, convulsed the audience

181s.] RliMINISCENOKS. 135

Avitli laughter, while the successful lover was canyin-j; the
wife about in his amis, like an infant. After this })au-
toniinie, the whole performers came forward, tumbling-
and jumping about with surprising agility ; some oi"
them far beyond any 1 had ever seen exhibit in my life.
One man, in particular, thurst out both arms and caught
two common-sized tumblers in the midst of a summerset in
the air, from opposite sides of the stage ; they fell over his
extended arms, and remained hanging- like towels u[)on
them, whilst he commenced dancing, and twisted himself
round and round, as if he were unconscious of any in-
cumbrance. This feat in itself would have satisfied us, but
the next was of such a nature, that I conceived it necessary
to obtain tlie signatures of the other gentlemen who sat at
the same table with me, to the sketch, and tlien requested
them to sign my Journal. Not being able to obtain the
same vouchers to every printed copy, I must even venture
a recital, trusting to my character for veracity to bear
me out, with those to whom I am known ; which I trust
is pretty generally the case, all over India. Four men
placed themselves in a solid square, two others then got up
and stood upon their shoulders ; and one man again upon
their's : the performer I have already mentioned, then
mounted a ladder, and got on his shoulders, wiiicli ele-
vated him as high as the top of the scenes, from whence
another man was handed to him, whom he took in his right
hand, by the waistband, and held up over his head a con-
siderable time ; when raising one leg, to our utter astonish-
ment, he fairly balanced himself, burthen and all, on the
other ; after which he threw his live lumber, with a sudden
jerk, head over heels among the crowd of actors, who now

1S6

MILITARY

[A.D.

entirely surrounded the human pedestal, and caught him
in their arras ; whilst at the same time he made a summerset
on the other side, and, descending, disappeared among the
crowd. Whether the puppet he held up was a man or
only an image, I had no means of ascertaining, but it cer-
tainly appeared a full grown man, alive, and in perfect
health ; and even the act of balancing themselves, in the
two upper persons, was surprising. Our landlord being
questioned on the subject, declared there was no kind of de-
ception, and the stage was as distinct as at mid-day. Another
play was about to commence, when we stole home to rest.

CHINESE EEAT OF STRENGTH.

1818.] R^:^JlNiSCliNCI■s. 137

On the 11th of November we paid a visit to the cele-
brated Hong Merchant, Consequa, who lives about a mile
and a half to the westward of our factories, and close to
the walls of the city. His house is in extent and work-
manship equal to the Palace of any Monarch in the East,
though it is all contained in a space, that would be deemed
too smafl for the compound of the poorest and meanest sub-
ject, in any other country. The tout ensemble is indeed,
almost incredible, and cannot be easily conceived, without
ocular demonstration ; nor can I describe it fully even after
that process. There are halls, vestibules, parlours, lob-
bies, closets, drawing-rooms, bungalows, alcoves, fountains,
rocks, grottoes, cellars, 6cc., in abundance ; and in the
centre of a small pond, built upon arches in water, is a
large theatre, with green room, stage, &c. open on three
sides, opposite to which are stately pavilions erected for the
convenience of spectators of various descriptions. The
centre of the dwellino; house is three stories hioh, with a
small railed terrace on the roof, from whence every part
of Canton and the surrounding country as far as Wampao,
is distinctly visible. The bird's eye view from this spot is
perhaps the most extraordinary to be met with in the
world ; a myriad of inhabited houses, crowded together,
of various heights and dimensions, without a single street
or void space in the whole prospect ; for none of the
thousand little lanes and passages are visible from that
height, and there is not such a thing as a good street in all
Canton, at least so far as an Englishman is permitted to
penetrate : and we are certainly the most favoured nation.
I have, oftcner than once, heard the Chinese shop-keepers

138 MILITARY [A.D.

tell Americans, who are next in numbers and respectability,
" wall ! wall ! what you say? what you can do ? you second
chop English/nan ! " Jirst chop being the best of every thing.
We could see into, and even beyond the city, which is
walled, and separate from the town ; in it the Viceroy and
his court reside, surrounded by soldiers and police in
abundance. There, no European is permitted, under any
pretext, to enter the gates; and such as have hitherto
attempted it, have been handsomely trounced with bam-
boos, &LC. Even at this distance, our curiosity was neces-
sarily confined to slight, and, as it were, casual observation ;
for had we been perceived, our kind host would have been
punished for our temerity. He had met us at the outer
door, and received us in the most urbane and cheerful
manner. His form of salutation was singular, and he re-
peated it to every individual of our party. " How d' you
do, Sir? I chin-chin you, Sir! How d'you do, Sir? I
chin-chin you. Sir!" bowing several times, and taking
each by the hand, which he shook very heartily ; then,
leading the way, he shewed us all I have attempted to
describe, till he came to the foot of the stairs leading to
the terrace, when he stepped back and pointed the way,
saying, "Walk up stairs, Sir; I chin-chin you. Sir," to
each of us again. Then following us up with a capital
telescope in his hand, he pointed out the surrounding
curiosities ; and when we descended, we found a collation
prepared in a pavilion in the garden, consisting of hot tea
and cold preserves, which he again chin-chinned us to par-
take. He well deserves the character he has acquired, of
the politest man in China.

181S.] RKMINISCKNCKS. 139

On the 14th we paid a second visit to Consequa ; and
though he was from home, we were admitted, after a short
demur, the first servant roaring out, " Fan-(jui lie .'"
which, being interpreted, is " The foreign Devils are come .'"
when a more respectable man came out, and very politely
did the honours of the house ; and it being a very clear
day, we had a distinct view of every roof in the town,
which is of a very irregular form, in consequence of the
windings of the river. At this visit, Consequa's women
and children, although warned of our arrival, made their
appearance two or three times, and seemed particularly
anxious to behold the Fan-quis. True daughters of Eve,
they exchanged chi/i-clii/is with us; but being extremely
fearful of giving offence, I begged my companions to con-
fine their civilities to that distant salutation, nor did we
presume on their familiarity in the smallest degree. And
here I take my leave of Canton ; whence I took my depar-
ture on the IGth of November, after receiving much
kindness from Sir Theophilus Metcalf, Mr. Urmstone,
the Reverend Doctor Morrison, Mr. Cotton, Mr. Dent,
Doctor Pearson, Sec, in whose society, with several other
visitors, I spent a very pleasant time, and quitted it witli
real regret. My leave of absence, however, would not
admit of a longer stay, although my health was certainly
more likely to have been benefited by the cold season, then
just set in. At eight, A. M., we reached the Helen,
Captain John Gover, of five hundred and eighty tons,
lying no great distance from the Honourable Company's
ship London, in which I had come to China ; and as we

140 MILITARY [A.D.

remained four days, I had the pleasure of visiting my kind
friends on board frequently, before our final departure.

Though I have studiously endeavoured to avoid in-
troducing ray own affairs or private feelings into this
heterogeneous mtlange, yet here, I trust, I shall find an
advocate in the bosom of all ray readers, who have been
placed in similar situations, for making particular mention
of Duncan M'Kenzie, Surgeon of the London, who was the
willing instrument of a gracious Providence in preserving
ray life, at a tirae when, among strangers, and far from my
family and friends, I was reduced to the brink of the grave.
This truly pious Christian, like the good Samaritan, by the
most unremitting attention, by a soothing kindness, never
diminished, and by great professional skill, restored me to
comparative health ; and bound me to him, as it were, by
an adamantine chain, the links of which ilo distance of
time or space can ever sever.

1818.] Ur.MlNISCENCKS. 141

CHAPTER IV.

College (if. ]\[al(icca — Tixvandcram — Tlic Itunce — Anjcngo — Taiuidh
— Goti — Mauguloie — Destructive Hurricane at ]\Iadi-us — T/ie
]\lalabar Co'ist — Vellvre.

On the 20th of November we left the Tigris, and had a
very pleasant passage to Malacca, where we arrived on the
6th of December, and spent two very agreeable days on
shore, in the company of my old friend and brother officer
Major Farquhar, the late Governor, Doctor Chalmers, and
the gentlemen of the College ; who, with their families,
live in one small community, each having a separate house
in the vicinity, and assembling there for society and meals.
This truly philanthropic establishment owes it's existence
to the Reverend Doctor Morrison, whose society I so
lately enjoyed at Canton. He having originally given one
thousand pounds sterling, by way of foundation, and sub-
scribed one hundred pounds per annum for the ensuing
five years. His example was so far followed, that six
hundred pounds more were added by the gentlemen at
Canton, whilst I was there ; and the Dutch Governor,

142 MILITARY [A.D.

Mynheer Timmerman Tyson, has not only confirmed Major
Farquhar's grant of ground, but also promised them his
favour and protection. The object of this Institution is to
instruct the Chinese, and eventually convert them from
Pagan ignorance to Christianity ; a work of charity, which,
I was happy to observe, was advancing even in Canton ; and
at Malacca a majority of the population are Chinese, who
appear willing pupils. The Reverend Mr. Milne, the senior
at Malacca, was a man of superior abilities and ardent
piety ; and the other gentlemen, Messrs. Slater, Meadows,
&c., appeared well adapted to second his endeavours in
this laborious and praise-worthy undertaking. Pursuing
our voyage, on the 8th of December, we encountered an
adverse gale in the Straits, which we weathered with
difficulty, and reached Calicut, on the Malabar coast, on
the 2nd of January, 1819.

I now pass over several months, spent in moving about
to places already mentioned, and request the reader to
accompany me from Quilon ; where it had proved exces-
sively hot and oppressive for some days, towards the capital
of Travancore, to which place I was proceeding to meet
the kindest and best friend I ever had. Major Sutherland
M'Dowall, just appointed to succeed Colonel Munro as
Resident. I left Quilon on the 13th of May; and on the
morning of the 14th, at sun-rise, whilst travelling in a
species of litter, called Muncheel,* my two dogs, which

* A Muncheel is a kind of litter, resembling a sea-cot, or hammock,
hung to a long pole, with a moveable covering over the whole, to keep
off the sun or rain. Six men will run with one from one end of the
Malabar coast to the other, while twelve are necessary for the lightest
palanquin.

1819.] RKMINISCENCKS, 143

were running along side of it, were suddenly attacked by
a number of jungle-dogs, called Cheyne Nye, or Chain
Nigh, an animal of which I had heard much, and read
more ; but which, extraordinary to relate, I had never
before encountered, during a peregrination of eight-and-
twenty years in the East. Those I saw on this occasion
very much resembled wolves, only larger, being of a bright
brown, with long bushy black tails. My constant com-
panion, a double-barrelled gun, was soon removed from it's
slings, attached to the muncheel pole, and I fired at the
two foremost with small shot ; the effect was instantane-
ous, for all scampered off with shrieks, and I saw no more
of them. On this occasion, taken suddenly and unawares,
I obeyed the first impulse, and it fortunately succeeded.
Most likely they had never before heard the sound of a
gun, or felt the smart of shot ratthng against their ribs,
for all were exposed to it's effects ; but the experiment
might not answer where they were more numerous ; as it
is said they always hunt in large packs, and never relin-
quish their game, be it an elephant, royal tiger, or buflalo ;
but, coute qui coute, destroy it in the end. The spot on
which we encountered them was about sixteen miles from
Quilon, the road passing through a deep jungle ; and my
dogs being saved, we resumed our journey.

TRFA'ANDERAM.
On the 17th of May I reached the cantonment near
Trevanderam, and found a capital house, built on a de-
lightful, elevated spot, for the Resident, and a couple of
battalions of Naires in the Ranee's service, ofticered by

144 MILITARY [A.D.

Englishmen, together with half a battalion of our own, in
the barracks ; but my friend had not arrived, and I put up
with Major M'Leod, who commanded the Ranee's brigade :
Captain Gordon, of Alepie, being acting Resident, and
living in the cantonment.

On the 20th, still waiting for Major M'Dowall, we re-
ceived an invitation from the Ranee, who had, in 1812,
succeeded the Rajah, formerly mentioned, to be present at
the celebration of her daughter's marriage. We had a
distance of about three miles to go, when, alighting at the
Palace-door, we were ushered into a temporary building,
devoid of taste, splendour, or elegance ; where, upon a
silver throne, sat the Ranee of Travancore, who was really
a very interesting young woman, and received us with
much kindness ; two couches were placed, one on each side
of the throne, with chairs arranged beyond them for Euro-
pean visitors. After the etiquette of a regular introduction
by Captain Gordon, we all took our seats, and were re-
galed by dancing girls for about two hours, and then
followed an abominable Malabar play. I observed near
the throne several naked Brahmins, two of whom only,
good-looking men, were clothed in chintz, and stood
directly behind the Queen. These proved to be the hus-
bands, one of a former Taumbratee, the other of the present
Ranee. In this family the boys of the elder women are
always the heirs. There are two young Rajahs at present
in the Palace ; one, the rightful heir to the throne, is now
seven years old, and a very line boy. He is the son of an
elder sister of the Ranee, by the eldest of the Brahmin
husbands, I have mentioned. The other, the son of the

1819.] RKMINISCKNCES. 145

Ranee and the other husband, is only three or four ; these
men, though fed and kindly treated in the Palace, have no
authority, nor are they permitted to sit in the Ranee's
presence in puV'ic. In addition to which, she may change
them whenever she is tired of one, by sending him away,
and selecting another, but only from amongst the Brah-
mins ; which very clearly proves that the women bear the
sway in Travancore, and, indeed, generally, all along the
ivlalabar coast. The two young Rajahs sat on my knee al-
ternately during the whole evening, without any restraint.
The Princes on this coast are all called Taumberaun, and
the Princesses, Taumbratee. When the performers had
wearied themselves, as well as us, by an indecent Malabar
drama, called Ramndtun, the Ranee said she would shew
us some fireworks, and we followed her out to an open
pandall, under which chairs were arranged for the whole
party, who sat for about an hour longer. The fireworks,
from the state of the weather, were very poor, but the
affability and good sense of her Highness made up, in my
mind, for all the disappointment. Indeed, the spot in
which they were exhibited was such as to make one rather
rejoice at their failure, and the rain which was then pour-
ing; as it was only a broad street, with thatched houses
on both sides, many of which might have been set on fire
in an instant.

On taking our leave, at eleven, P, M., the Ranee en-
treated us to return next day, but one of the ladies being
unwell, the party was put off till the 22nd, when we again
assembled at eight, P. M, and saw some excellent fire-
works, the same monotonous dancing, and a few more acts

VOL. II. L

146 MILITARY [A.D.

of the Ramniitun, still more disgusting than the former.
I really blushed for two English ladies present, who, for-
tunately, appeared vniconscious of what was going on ; and
I observed with pleasure, that the Ranee, who must have
been accustomed to such exhibitions from her infancy,
frequently turned away, and pretended to be looking about,
to avoid the worst parts of it. We had some heavy rain
on our return home, at ten, P. M.

On the 25th, my worthy friend. Major M'Dowall, arriv-
ing from Bengal, via Madras ; the next day, at noon, I
accompanied him, to pay his first visit to the Ranee; and
was really gratified with the whole scene, as every Native
of distinction in the country had assembled to do honour
to the Representative of the British Government ; and all
the troops were drawn up to receive him. Not a soul but
the Ranee, however, and the European gentlemen sat
down, not even the Taumbrdtee newly married, her bride-
groom, the Ranee's father and husband, the widower of a
former Ranee, nor the Dewaun or Prime Minister. The
two young Rajahs made speeches to the new Resident, and
the younger, on this occasion, seemed the most at home ;
amongst other questions, he asked " how all the gentlemen
were at Madras," and sat down very contentedly on the
Major's knee ; the heir apparent not appearing equally to
relish his propinquity to a stranger.

On the reading of the Marquess of Hastings's letter to
her Highness, announcing the appointment of Major
M'Dowall to her Highness's Court, the Ranee stood up,
and so did all the visitors, while a royal salute and three
volleys from the troops publicly announced the appointment.

1819.] REMINISCENCES. 147

The Major then dehvered presents to the Ranee and all
her family, and we took our leave, promising to return in
the evening.

Having dined at the Residency at four o'clock, at half
past nine we received her Highness's summons, when we
proceeded to the fort, and were immediately ushered into her
presence in the hall of audience. This hall is a long nar-
row up-stairs room, with a veranda all round it, in which
were assembled about two hundred people, whose breaths,
mingled with the odour of the numerous oil lamps, most
forcibly recalling old INIathew Bramble's description of a
Bath assembly, afiected my lungs so sensibly, that I was
soon forced to adjourn to the open air for free respiration.
We saw the fireworks from the front veranda, which were
certainly very grand ; particularly some rockets, which ran
on a horizontal line guided by ropes attached to strong-
poles, and some of them fastened to figures, which they
impelled, with surprising velocity ; and also some batteries,
which after imitating the roar of cannon and musquetiy,
suddenly exploded like mines, throwing up a profusion of
fire-balls. After this exhibition we descended to a similar
hall on the groimd floor, where a good supper was laid out
for the European visitors ; after partaking of which, we
again ascended to witness another Malabar play, from the
back veranda, with the grosser indelicacies lopped off at
Major M'Leod's suggestion; at the same time six nice
little boys were performing feats of activity, with large
knives and swords, by far the best part of the entertain-
ment ; and we got home, nearly exhausted, at two o'clock
in the morning.

L 2

148 iMILITARY [A.D.

On the 27th we again assembled at the Palace at half
past three, P. M., to dinner, after which we were enter-
tained with wrestling and feats of agility in the court-yard,
when the rain, descending in torrents, put us all to flight,
in spite of every notion of court etiquette, and adjourning
to the dinner hall, or saloon, we were fain to listen to the
discordant croaking of several sets of dancing girls, &c.; at
nine, a lady arriving, the Ranee kindly sent word, " that
as it was raining hard, she would come down and sit with
us," which she accordingly did for about an hour, when,
telling us we had better take our suppers, she wished us
good night and retired ; we accordingly followed her ad-
vice, and broke up at midnight.

On the 28th, we had a repetition of the same feasting
and exhibitions as the day before ; and the fireworks, not-
withstanding the rain, were really capital, and afforded us
much amusement.

On the 29th there was another repetition, with all the
elements against us ; and at one, A. M., we took our leave
of this affable and interesting Princess.

The rain continuing to pour incessantly, I could not set
off for Quilon until the 3rd of June, when I rode twenty-
two miles north, to

ANJENGO.
This place, once so famous in Eastern History, is now
going fast to decay ; the fort on the sea-shore, resembled
that of Tutucorine, being a commodious square, with the
interior completely occupied by a capital Government-
house and other public buildings ; all of which, tottering to

1819.] RRMINISCF.NCF.S. 149

their foundations, have been lately sold by Government
for the materials, and are now dilapidated. The Cutwal,
a very civil intelligent fellow, told me it was one hundred
years old, which, in the East, is an indefinite way of ex-
pressing great age. I put up in a small Portuguese house
on the back-water, immediately under the eastern face of
the fort, and said to be the very house in which Eliza
Draper was born ; but which, like all the rest of the place,
bears evident marks of better days : the guards who lately
paraded the fort having been withdrawn, the hundreds
of decayed buildings, and squalid half-starved wretclies in
almost every street, proclaim it's miserable and rapid
downfall. The surf at present is really tremendous, being
if possible, more terrific, than that of Madras, and the south-
western monsoon having set in, the whole coast looks
dreary and desolate. " Sic transit gloria mundi." The
remembrance of the Abbe Reynold's Apostrophe to Sterne's
Eliza, from his " History of India," made me somewhat
desirous of beholding this place ; but time has now left no
traces of a woman, whose name has been most capriciously
handed down to futurity by two eccentric Priests, who
might have employed their talents on a much better sub-
ject, as far as we can learn at this distant period. Still, in
spite of my disapprobation of Lawrence Sterne's heroine,
I found myself mechanically led to seek some relique, and
actually robbed a broken window of two or three pieces of
oyster-shell, or mother of pearl, in memento of my visit to
the birth-place of Eliza Draper. Another century, and
even the site of the house will be washed away, or mingled
with promiscuous ruins ; while Sterne's writings will last to

150 MILITARY [A.D.

the end of this sublunary sphere ; a proof to after-ages, of
his transcendant wit, his energetic feeUngs, and, I am
sorry to add, his unfortunate depravity.

There are now no European inhabitants at Anjengo,
though there are many soi-disant Britons, the offspring of
Portuguese, who have a very fine Roman Cathohc Church,
still standing entire. The Native name of this place is
Anjytangle. I found great difficulty in making my way
by the sea-coast here, from a dozen of rapid rivers running,
where no previous stream existed ; and was more than
once nearly drowned in crossing them. I arrived safely at
Quilon, however, on the evening of the 4th of June, though
I suffered considerably from my exposure to so much wet.
On the evening of the 18th, I embarked on the back-
water with my kind friend, the Resident, and some other
gentlemen, in the Ranee's boats. These pleasure yachts
are so constructed, that two people can sleep comfortably
in each ; and, the beds made up, a dozen may be accom-
modated during the day. Their common rate of progress
is about six miles an hour, and some of them can run at
least ten ; we reached Alepie on the morning of the 19th,
and spent a very pleasant day at Captain Gordon's ; who
was so pressing, that we remained the next also, being
the Sabbath, and heard Divine service in the house of the
Reverend Mr. Norton, a Missionary, instead of attending
the Church at Cochin. On the 21st we arrived at the
Residency, on the island of Balghattie, when the Resident
paid his first visit to the Rajah of Cochin, whose Court and
person I have already described. His Highness looked
for all the world like a school-boy, who had just got some

1819.

RFMINISCF.NCF.S.

151

sweetmeats, and talked in the same infantine style. He
received some elegant presents from Major M' Dow all ;
and in return, presented him with a gold chain of innnense
length, but rude workmanship, two gold elephant-chain
bangles or bracelets, with shawls, dresses, &.C., to a large
amount, all to be carried to the credit of Government.
Contrasted with the Court of Travancore, which we had so
lately visited, this was paltry indeed. The Rajah returned
the Resident's visit the next day ; and, in a long con-
ference, confirmed my first opinion. The subjoined sketch
represents the Ranee's boats, the Antelope, Greyhound,
\?cc. on the back-water.

152 MILITARY [A.D.

After spending a few happy days with my kind friend at
Ballghattie, I took my leave, and proceeded by water to
Trichoor, where I passed some time in company with Cap-
tain Maunsel, commanding, and Captain Lethbridge, in
charge of the Cochin forests ; but as I have to mention
this place again, I shall not now say anything more about
it. The remainder of this year was passed in moving
about, in different directions, on this coast, in search of
health, having recently had the asthma added to a liver
complaint.

On the 1st of January, 1820, I embarked on board the
Reliance, Captain M. Pike, on sick certificate to Bombay ;
and after stopping three or four days at Mangalore on the
passage, reached the harbour on the 24th of February.
The appearance of the shore of Bombay, from the offing, is
very imposing, and I have seldom beheld a more interesting
prospect ; having the light-house, colaba, and the fort in
the foreground, and numerous verdant hills and islands in
the rear. I counted twenty-four large ships at anchor,
close to the fort ; and there were thousands of Pattamars
and native craft, in every direction. On landing, I found
a carriage from the Governor, the Honourable Mount-
stewart Elphinstone, waiting for me at the Ghaut, and
proceeding to Malabar Point, met with a most kind and
hearty reception ; having taken up his residence on that
mountain, while the Government houses in the fort, and at
Parell, were undergoing alterations and repairs. The bun-
galow being very small, and having only two bed-rooms in
it, one of which was already occupied by a family, this
kind and considerate statesman insisted on rehnquishing

1820.] RKMINISCRNCES. 153

his own for my accommodation ; and actually slept in a
tent the whole time we were there. I have already men-
tioned the easy affability of a former Governor of Bombay ;
but even that was surpassed by my present host, whose
family consisted of ten personal staff, and who always had
a table laid for nearly thirty. With a highly cultivated
mind, and the most transcendant abilities, he was the
courteous and interesting companion ; the kind and un-
assuming host ; and his family were consequently under
none of those unpleasant restraints, which, in the East, too
frequently interrupt the social harmony, and poison the
enjoyments of those who are forced into the company of
men high in office. Mr. Elphinstone, after distinguishing
himself as a statesman and soldier at Poonah, where he had
been for many years Resident at the Court of the Peishwa,
had lately been appointed to Bombay, and never was
Governor more popular ; plain in his dress, and unassuming
in his manners, he mixed in general society without cere-
mony, and was every where treated with respect and
reverence.

A period of nearly sixteen years had elapsed since I liad
last seen Bombay ; and great, indeed, were the alterations
which had taken place in every thing during that period :
among the rest, the green, as it had always been miscalled,
a square in the centre of the fort, had now been cleared of
bales of cotton and other merchandize, and excellent houses
had risen in every direction, as well as capital roads lead-
ing to them. Many respectable workmen having also
been established in the place, the carriages, palanquins,
and indeed all sorts of furniture, were wonderfully im-

154 MILITARY [A.D.

proved ; and, but for the constant clouds of dust, which,
in a manner, inundate the whole island, I should have
pronounced it delightful. But although a northerly gale
prevailed during nearly a month, that I resided on Mala-
bar Point, a promontory overhanging the sea, we were
never clear of this nuisance ; and I now feel convinced,
that the dust, which is so unpleasant in every part of Bom-
bay, is blown across the Gulf of Cutch, and not generated
on the island.

My limits will not permit my enlarging on this visit, or
enumerating the many pleasant days spent in a society re-
markable for cheerful hospitality ; though this recollection
brings with it a pang of bitter memory, for here I met
the friend of my youth, the Honourable James R. Elphin-
stone, of the Bengal Civil service, who arrived the day after
me, also in search of health. We had both obtained our
appointments on the same day, and had not seen one
another since the year 1789; when, totally unprepared for
such a pleasure, we met at his brother's table, after a
lapse of thirty years, and instantly recognised each other.
Our hearts clung together like brothers, our former long ob-
structed intercourse was instantly renewed, and never
again interrupted, until it pleased the Almighty to call
him from a state of misery and probation, to the regions of
the blessed. Holding situations of the highest respect-
ability in Bengal, he was frequently forced to relinquish
the advantages they held out, from the effects of an ener-
vating climate on a constitution never robust; and al-
though he bore every dispensation with unrepining
fortitude and Christian resignation, yet the untimely death

i litii r

-1820.] REMINISCENCES. 157

of a beloved wife, followed by that of their two infants,
preying on a mind of the keenest sensibility, most likely
hastened the period of his own sufferings. Having tried
the chmate of China, and the Cape, without deriving any
benefit, he breathed his last at Saint Helena, on the 1st
of August, 1828; and left not a purer, kinder heart, or
a better regulated mind behind him. In him the Company
lost an able, honest, and upright servant ; and time alone
can heal the wound inflicted on the hearts of his family
and friends,

TANNAII.
On the 10th of Februaiy, I accompanied my friend, Mr.
Stephen Babington, from Bombay, in a capital bunder
boat to Tannah, twenty-two miles in the interior, which
took us exactly three hours to reach the landing-place, a
short distance from Mr. B.'s house. The passage up the
river and approach to this place is exceedingly picturesque,
and the country all round verdant and beautiful. The
town, though large, is nothing extraordinary ; and all the
gentlemen of the station have garden-houses a short dis-
tance outside. That in which Mr. Babington resided was
a public cutcherry, opposite the gate of the fort, a most
comfortable up-stair dwelling house, with all the public
offices in the court-yard. In this delightful retirement,
enjoying the society of my friend and his family, a week
passed imperceptibly away. The fort of Tannah is built of
stone and chunam, on the right or northern bank of the
river ; with large roomy bastions and short curtains, a
good ditch, covert-way, traverses, &c., it looks respectable

158 MILITARY [A.D.

and is remarkably clean. The Commandant's house occu-
pies the curtain on the river face, and affords an interesting
view across the river, of the range of mountains, which
separate the Concan or Koekun from the Deccan ; with
the Mahrattah territories, below the Ghauts, in the fore-
ground. Still, situated, as it were, in a low amphitheatre,
this place must be considerably hotter than Malabar Hill or
even Bombay ; because it is not equally exposed to the
cooling influence of the gentle breezes which regularly
salute that place, and must, in some degree, render it more
temperate in general. The garrison of Tannah consisted of
one hundred European veterans, and one hundred and fifty
Sepoys, under Major Kemp ; that officer and Lieutenant
Falconer, the Fort Adjutant, only, residing in the fort.

Before quitting this place, I must again mention my
amiable and lamented friend, and pay a sorrowful, but
sincere, tribute to his memory.

With superior abilities and a highly cultivated mind, he
was modest and diffident to a fault : he did not dazzle at
first sight, like a comet ; but rather like the more useful
planet, which directs the mariner in his dubious course,
he shrank from observation, and required to be known, to
be respected for his acquirements, and beloved for his
sterling worth. I had become acquainted with him on the
Malabar coast, where, under a gracious Providence, he
taught me to be instrumental in saving the lives of our poor
fellow-creatures, attacked by that cruel scourge, the spas-
modic cholera ; many a cure did he perform, and was in-
deed, in every sense of the word, the friend and protector
of the poor. He was, at the time of my visit. Judge of

2 O

.^ H

5- '^

S I-i

I-

1820.] RHAIINISCENCES. 161

the Zillah of Tannah, but Mr. Elphinstone, duly appre-
ciating his talents, soon drew him forth from this retire-
ment, and placed him in situations of greater utility ; till,
being on a circuit, at the very place where he had so
long resided, a fire suddenly broke out in the town, and
he lost his life from the falling of a beam upon his head,
while nobly endeavouring to extinguish the flames. Thus
perished in the prime of life and in the execution of his
duty, one of the best and most benevolent of men ; whose
abilities had raised him, in the course of a few years, to the
head of his profession.

Returning to Malabar Point, I remained there until the
Governor, accompanied by his brother, set out on a
tour to the northward on the 27th of February ; when I
removed to the house of Captain Dickenson of the
Engineers, from whom I had received an invitation, and
who, with his lady, V'.ndly put themselves to great incon-
venience in harbouring a wretched invalid, subject to con-
stant and violent attacks of asthma. On the 2nd of March,
the Reliance having returned from the Persian Gulf, I
again embarked in her for the Malabar coast, came in
sight of the Portuguese territory of Goa, on the night of
the 4th, and entered the harbour next morning.

GOA,
The capital of the Portuguese in India, is situated near
the sea-shore, at the mouth of a wide and beautiful
navigable river, which, taking it's rise in the Ghauts,
about fifty miles to the eastward, loses itself in an extensive
arm of the sea, forming one of the finest harbours in the

VOL. II. M

162 MILITARY [A.D.

world. Unlike Bombay, the land on both sides of this
harbour, is lofty and commanding, and while the several
points or promontories which approach the passage, have
been carefully cleared of underwood and fortified, the more
retired parts still retain their natural wildness. Few places,
therefore, present a more imposing picture than this does,
in almost every point of view, but particularly on entering
the harbour, where the wild beauties of nature are blended
with those of art, such as Monasteries, Cathedrals, Castles,
and houses, which occasionally present themselves be-
tween the rich and luxuriant foliage of the most delicious
fruit trees in the world ; for such are the Goa mangos,
oranges, &c. It is true, that on landing at Punjam, which
is the new town and nearest to the harbour, the illusion
vanishes ; for few places in the East, are more filthy or
devoid of interest; a low sandy spot, covered with ugly
wretched houses, huddled together without order or regard
to appearances ; and the inhabitants, generally speaking,
a miserable progeny of sallow bipeds, doing duty for
Europeans. Here also is the Governor's residence, a large
unsociable building more resembling a prison than a palace,
both without and within. I paid my respects to this
Oriental Bashaw, shortly after landing, and running the
gauntlet through about a dozen sable livery servants, in
different gloomy apartments, found the Don standing in
an unfurnished room ; his person decorated with two stars,
one of which had a large cross in the centre, and two dark
men in uniform, one of whom was said to be the Adjutant
General, and was also decorated with some non-descript
military orders. He was a portly personage, and, speaking

1820.] REMINISCENCF.S. lf)3

English, acted as interpreter at this most interesting inter-
view, which terminated without the offer of a chair, or
any other civihty.

The same evening, I accompanied a party to the Church
of La Senora de Confession, just clear of the town, at
the base of a small picturesque hill, where we were ushered
up stairs into the Priest's room ; through the window of
which, we became spectators of what was passing in the
body of the Church : here two Portuguese officers, both in
liquor, one said to be a murderer, transported from Lisbon,
attempted to disturb us ; but we got rid of their impor-
tunities by a calm forbearance, without proceeding to ex-
tremities ; and were entertained or rather disgusted, witli
the exhibition of a farce below. The officiating Priest, a
man of notoriously bad character, was holding forth to a
motley crowd of men, women, and children, of all shades
and degrees ; to whom he spoke Portuguese and Canarese
alternately. He made use of very plain and uncourteous
language, in allusion to their sins ; but which, I thought,
most applicable to the exhalations proceeding from their
persons, in which were blended the scents of every kind of
flower, with those of cocoa-nut oil, &c., forming a melange,
not very gratifying to the olfactory nerves of an invalid.

He next told them that for their crimes lie would call
down a famine on the land, on which they slapped their
own cheeks with both hands ; at other times they sat with
their arms across, holding their ears, and calling out for
forgiveness. After this prelude, of about an hour's conti-
nuance, a curtain was suddenly removed from a painted
altar-piece of two stories, and in the upper one appeared

164 MILITARY [A.D.

an image of our blessed Saviour, standing, with a long
black beard, and clad in a white robe, with golden rays
round the temples. The people being then all kneeling,
the Priest, addressing this image, called on it repeatedly to
punish them ; on which they as regularly murmured, and
beat their own cheeks : after which, he descended and
knelt at the foot of a smaller image and cross for a consi-
derable time ; then rising, the cross was carried in pro-
cession, with lighted candles in broad day-light, all round
the outside of the Church. Here, our patience being ex-
hausted, we quitted this humiliating and disgusting scene ;
so degrading to human nature, and so inconsistent with
that pure religion which these mistaken wretches profess
to follow.

The town of Punjam is connected with the old town of
Goa, by a long stone causeway, built in a marshy with a
rivulet in the centre, three hundred yards long. This
bridge has a small elevated arch, with an inscription en-
graven in Spanish, stating it to have been commenced in
the year 633, and finished in 634, that is twelve hundred
years since, and mentioning, I think, the reign of Don
Philip the Third, of Spain. Some great mistake occurs
here, but I give it as written down at the moment.
Passing over this noble and useful work, which must have
cost a very large sum to complete it, I paid a visit to the
Archbishop, who lives in a delightful Palace, about three
miles up the river, and not far from the skirts of the old
town. He appeared a gross, dark man, but extremely
polite, and conversed in French with great fluency. After
sitting with him for some time, when I proposed to take

1820.] RliMINISCKNCF.S. ]6o

my leave, he begged me to stop a lew minutes, that he
might treat me as he would a lady visitor ; tlien di-
recting two attendant Priests to run into the garden and
pick some flowers, for which, he desired me to hold out
my cocked hat, and nearly filled it with roses. A
short distance from his Palace is a Church on the river
side, dedicated to Saint Francis Xavier, of whom tliey
relate many marvellous tales- amongst which, the fabu-
lous origin of this Church is not the least incredible.
They say that the Saint was at the Cape of Good Hope,
when the Devil came, and wanted to carry off a large ship
filled with Roman Catholics ; on which the Saint deter-
mined to save them from his clutches, and actually taking
the ship under his left arm, flew from the Cape to Goa
during the night, combating his Satanic Majesty with the
other hand the whole way ! I must own that when this
absurd fable was related gravely to me, I was so ill-bred as
to burst out laughing ; whereupon my sapient informer
begged of me to walk to the river side, and pointed out
two pillars erected in the water, which he affirmed marked
the length of the said ship, and are in high preservation,
about three or four hundred feet asunder. This recalls to my
recollection the equally credible tale at Pennacondah, where
the Church already mentioned is a very neat and highly
finished building, with a ship rudely drawn on the outside,
next to the river. Blending truth with fiction, this Church
contains the superb and chaste marble tomb of Saint
Francis, surmounted with a silver coffin, having a glass lid,
in which are deposited the dried remains of the Saint,
wanting one toe, which a Portuguese lady, in a fit of holy

166 MILITARY [A.D.

enthusiasm actually bit off and purloined ! and which
delicate piece of saciilege has caused the said coffin to be
locked up ever since, so that devotees can now admire
the shrivelled limbs through the glass only, and kiss the
sacred covering. This monument is certainly a beautiful
piece of sculpture, and is enclosed in a niche behind the
altar; beyond which it appears through lattice work, and
has an excellent effect. In the body of the building is a
brass monument with a Latin inscription, announcing to
future generations, that Saint Mascorario, Captain of
Cochin, founded this Church in the year of our Lord 1393,
and that his remains are preserved within this brass
sarcophagus. There are also the terrestrial remains of a
Santa Paulina, in another part of the Church, preserved
entire, and full-dressed, in a glass case. Time, that enemy
to beauty, having only turned her delicate skin into brown
clay, and cracked it in various places; particularly the
whole upper lip, from the nose to the mouth. There are
also various other glass cases, containing single bones of
various demi-gods of this idolatrous nation ; but to attempt
a description of the numerous buildings of this kind, in and
about Goa, would be a vain undertaking ; indeed, many of
them would occupy whole days to examine. I fancy we
visited about thirty Convents, Churches, and Monasteries,
out of three or four hundred. At least, this is their own
calculation, and they say there are seven thousand Priests :
they certainly teem in every direction, and I suspect there
are more men in religious habits than of any other profes-
sion in this once flourishing capital ; the whole riches of
which appear to have been absorbed in edifices sufficient

IHl'O.] Rr.MlNISCENCliS. 167

to contain, for devout purposes, the whole European and
semi-European population in the East Indies. The archi-
tecture of some of these buildings as far exceeds any thiiin-
of the kind I have seen in India, as their magnitude
certainly does any English places of worship ; and to have
computed the vast sums of money swallowed up m these
useless monuments of superstition and bigotry, would not
only have taken up more time than we could s[)are, but
have also made us blush still more deejjly for a nation,
calling itself European.

I must not, however, pass over the Prison of the Itupii-
sitiou, that sink of iniquity, so disgraceful to more than
one kingdom, ranking among enlightened Christians ;
though, to the honour of the Portuguese, be it said, this
one is now uninliabited. I had the jileasure of eating a
meal in it's veranda, and taking another in the old
Government-house, close to it; after which, returning
towards Punjam, where we resided, I had the gratification
of hearing some sacred music, sung by thirteen Priests, in
a Church near the road ; they were all dressed alike, in
white cassocks, and chaunted the service with both taste
and harmony ; indeed, I have often remarked, that this is
the most imposing part of the Tloman Catholic religion ;
and cannot help feeling a sensation of delight and awe
during it's continuance, for nothing lifts the soul towards
the Supreme, so much as well-composed and well-executed
sacred music.

On another evening we paid a visit to the parents of the
Hereditary Admiral of Goa, a seaman who has never
crossed the entrance of the harbour ; they reside in a capital

168 MILITARY [A.D.

mansion on the bank of the river, below Punjam. The
family name is Da Costa, and this ancient couple are on
the verge of eternity ; the old gentleman, who is bed-
ridden, being eighty-eight, and his wife, who still enjoys
all her faculties, seventy-eight. They seemed pleased with
our visit, which their sons returned the next day ; indeed,
the whole family are very hospitable and kind to strangers,
and much above the common order of Oriental Portuguese.
The river is a very fine stream, navigable for large boats at
least fifteen miles above Goa. The vessels generally used
by Europeans are a kind of light, ten-oared pinnaces, with
a good awning and seats for six or eight passengers, which
row very fast, and are also very safe. The natives and
poorer sort of Portuguese use canoes of various sizes ; and
the harbour and river are crowded with every kind of
vessel, from the man-of-war to the cockle-shell. In fine,
this place, in the hands of the English, would shortly be
one of the first importance ; at present, it is at the lowest
ebb of destitution ; and, indeed, so appears the whole of
this once great and enterprising nation. Leaving this
harbour on the 11th of March, we reached Mangalore
Roads on the 15th; and, landing, T put up with my old
friends the Babers, who were, at that time, on the circuit.

MANGALORE.
This place, called Korial Bunder, by Hyder Ally, when
he captured it from the English, was for many years sub-
ject to him and his successor. It is celebrated for the
gallant defence made in those days, with very inadequate
means ; and was always a favourite port of Tippoo's, since

1820.] REMINISCENCES. 169

it was here that his Ambassadors to the Mauritius both
embarked and returned, when they brought the French
auxiliaries, who were taken to his capital in Mysore, and
were still in his service in 1799, at the time of his downfall.
Situated at the mouth of a very large and beautiful river,
and on an elevated cliff, it certainly is a most desirable
possession, but not a safe port for ships of large burthen,
as they are obliged to lie a long way out, in the open roads.
The river is both deep and ra|)id, but has a bar of sand
outside, over which, at low-water, or when much agitated
by heavy winds, even boats find a difficulty in passing.
The town being on the left, or northern bank, there is a
constant ferry, to keep up the communication with Ma-
labar, it being the capital of Canara ; the jungars or
pontoons of which take at least half an hour to cross ; they
are large, and capable of conveying a carriage and horses,
or two palanquins and twenty or thirty men on them, each
trip. Of the fort, nothing remains but the foundation ;
yet even that serves to shew what a strong place it must
have been. The site was commanding and well-chosen ;
and Lieutenant-colonel A. Grant, of whom honourable
mention is made, in the first Mahrattah war, being now
Deputy Commissary-general, had built a capital house on
the foundation of a large bastion, which, from it's height
was certain of enjoying in perfection a full share of every
wind that blew, particularly that most congenial to Euro-
peans, ycleped the sea-breeze. The town, which is very
large, is situated to the south-eastward, and the gentlemen
of the Civil service have garden-houses at a short distance
in the interior. The whole country round ]Mangalore is
much above: the level of the sea, and bcautifullv diversified

170 MILITARY [A.D.

by hill and dale, with rich cultivation, and capital roads
running in all directions through the whole. It is now a
small Civil station, carrying on considerable trade, particu-
larly with Bombay and the intermediate ports ; and the
garrison consists of a few companies of Native infanti'y.
In point of climate, I am inclined to think it has the
advantage over every other station on this coast, excepting
TelHcherry ; but it is a very out-of-the-way place, and
therefore not generally liked for a permanent residence.

MADRAS.
Leaving Mangalore on the 23rd of March, I reached
Cannanore on the 24th, and Calicut on the 27th, where I
remained a few days, till the Reliance was ready to proceed
to Madras, at which place we arrived on the 26th of April.
Expecting the return of my family from Europe, I remained
at the Presidency, in the house of my kind friend. Major
De Haviland, who was then Chief Engineer. The cholera
then still extending it's ravages from one end of the Pe-
ninsula to the other, suddenly made it's entry into Saint
George's Church, and struck even the Minister in the
pulpit, where the Reverend Mr. Keating, while in the act
of reading the morning service, on Sunday, the 7th of
May, was assailed by this dreadful malady, and, being
carried home, became a corpse the same evening; depriving
the settlement of the best preacher I ever heard in the
East. I was not long personally acquainted with him, but
all that I had an opportunity of seeing in his behaviour,
both publicly and privately, made me lament his untimely
fate. In society he was mild, modest, and gentlemanly ;
in the pulpit pious, zealous, and energetic ; with the

1820.] ri:.miniS(;i;ncks. 171

clearest and most melodious voice I ever heard. His
reading of tlie Comnuniion service in particular was the
most aflectinij; and ehxjueut that the mind of man could
conceive; and, standing at the altar, he actually filled the
Church witli a voice almost su])er-human. The Almighty,
for purposes Nvhich mortals cannot fathom, permitted the
King of Terrors to snatch him from the very midst of his
congregation ; and it is to be hoped the impression na-
turally made on some of them, must have ])r()duced a
feeling \vhich nothing in the connnon way could liave
effected.

On jMonday the 8th of May, the settlement was visited
by a storm, of even longer duration than the one I had
witnessed in 1811. It commenced with a strong northerly
wind, followed in the forenoon by clouds of dust, which
were succeeded by heavy rain in the afternoon, with an in-
creasing wind. At six o'clock, P.M., it had become a
hurricane, and we saw some ships very sensibly running
out to sea : at midnight the wind came round to the
east, and had got to the south-west at daylight on the 9th,
the rain continuing to pour a deluge, though not in the
least abating the fury of the wind. At two, P. M., the
flag-staff in the fort was broken and fell, and the tempest
was so much increased, that we could neither venture over
the threshold, nor see any thing distinctly through the glass
windows, which indeed, we had great difficulty in securing
from within. In the evening the wind shifted again to
the northward, but without any symptoms of abatement ;
we had been obliged to burn candles all day, and the
tempest increased at nightfall, lasting with unabating fury

172 MILITARY [A.D.

until the next morning, the 10th, when the whole beach
was found covered with wrecks, amongst which all the
Massoulah boats were beaten to pieces, and driven even
into the streets of the Black-town ; the whole island was
covered with water, and all the drawbridges to the Lunetts
destroyed or removed. It is said that one thousand Na-
tives perished in the houses which were demolished out-
side. In the fort only one old house fell, but all the sentry
boxes were blown down, and many doors and windows
demolished. Outside, many trees were torn up by the
roots, and few houses escaped without some injury. In
the midst of all this mischief, a new Scotch Church, build-
ing by my friend Major De Haviland, stood unshaken,
and the light house in the fort had only one pane of glass
broken. The damage at sea was almost incalculable.
When the gale commenced, there were numerous ships and
vessels in the roads ; of the former all but the Atlas, got
out early ; she was seen last, at three, P. M., on the 9th,
labouring dreadfully, and as the wind was then flying
about from west to north, we supposed she had been at
last blown out. Of the Massoulah boats, fifty were en-
tirely destroyed, many pieces of which were flung into the
ditch of the fort, and some quite entire were to be seen far
in the Black-town. A house on the beach, used as a dis-
pensary, close to the Master-attendant's office, was literally
washed away ; and great fears were entertained for all the
buildings on the sea face. The next day, walking round
the battlements, to behold the effects of the late storm, I
saw a green window shutter, from one of the houses in the
fort, lodged against an embrazure in the out-work of the

1820.] REMINISCKNCRS. 173

north-eastern angle. IIow it came there, I cannot tell ;
but, certes, it must have passed over a rampart nearly
thirty feet high.

The damage done at sea was, — the ill-fated Alias totally
lost off Pulicat, early on the morning of the 10th, with
three lunopeans and two Natives drowned ; the rest of the
crew providentially saved. The General rainier returned
in five days, when the Chief-mate reported, that he had
never experienced such a gale in his life; and but fur tiie
strength of the ship, being quite new from Calcutta, and
the good conduct of her crew, she nmst have gone down,
as he feared all the others had done, for he saw them all
round in distress, and before he returned, had observed
wrecks in all directions. He picked up six Lascars, who
swam on board, for he had lost all his boats and spars,
having two feet water on the gun-deck, and every thing
washed off the poop. The Reliance, and some others, were
dismasted ; and several, whose names I could not learn,
perished at sea. Even on the 10th, when a Catamoran
ventured out for the relief of a dismasted vessel drifting by,
she disappeared, and was never seen or heard of afterwards.

It is extraordinary, that this Presidency should twice
have been visited by heavy storms, in the hottest and
stillest month in the whole year ; and at the very time
when most vessels are to be seen in the Roads. I never
learned w hat number of small craft perished ; but none were
to be seen for some days after. The fine beach, between
the fort and Black-town, was nearly destroyed ; and
great fears were entertained for a long and valuable rano-e
of public buildings, the verandas of which were literally

174 MILITARY [A.D.

filled with pieces of wrecks. There is a proverb of most
venerable antiquity which states, that " It is a bad wind
which blows nobody good," and this gale so disastrous to
the community, and which nearly deprived me of life, from
it's effect on my injured lungs, afforded my kind host an op-
portunity of being eminently useful, in placing a bar pio
tempore, to the advances of the encroaching ocean. He
was employed by Government to form a stone barrier or
break-water, all along the shore, to the extent of upwards of
a mile; which undertaking occupied every spare cart at the
Presidency, for many months, conveying stones blown and
cut out of a hill seven miles inland, called the little
mount, which he literally removed into the sea ; and
thereby saved all the public buildings and the Black-town
from impending destruction.

On the 10th of June, Sir Thomas Munro landed at
Madras, and assumed the government in due form, and
never was an appointment more grateful to the feelings of
the Madras army. I meddle not with politics, but the dis-
pensations of an allwise and gracious, though mysterious
Providence, will compel my pen to introduce this great
and good man again to the reader, \^ith far different sen-
sations. Continuing to reside at Madras, with a part of
my family who returned from Europe in August; I had
the misfortune suddenly to lose my best and kindest friend,
then Lieutenant-colonel Sutherland M'Dowall, Resident
of Travancore. On the 7th of November, he was attacked
with cholera in the morning, and in spite of medical aid,
was a corpse the same evening. I had not even the
melancholy gratification of seeing him previous to his

1821.] REMINISCF.NCKS. 175

dissolution, being myself confined and not permitted by
my medical attendant to go near him. Always extremely
delicate, he had come down to the Presidency, to pay his
respects to Sir Thomas Munro, and had not been many
days there, when one night awaking and seeing a man in
his bed-room, he sprang up and pursued him out of the
house, in a shower of rain ; the robber drop])ed various
articles in his retreat, and amongst the rest, some veiy *
ingenious pick-locks, and instruments for drawing bolts, Jnlc.
My friend lost nothing of consequence, but the sudden
transition from a hot bed, to a cold wet atmosphere, was
too much for his weak frame, and the result was to me,
one of the severest blows I had experienced for many
years. In 1817, at a time when almost overwhelmed by
an accumulation of misfortunes, and when true friendship
is fairly tried and appreciated, he came forward, in the
kindest, and most affectionate manner, and administered
effectual rehef ; and even at the moment of his lamented
death, was increasing the heavy debt of gratitude, never to
be repaid, but by respect to his memory.

This year closed with another gale in the end of De-
cember, which could not prove equally destructive, from
the port being shut, and the flag-stafT struck, for the north-
east monsoon : it served, however, to prove the efficacy of
the new barrier.

On the 6th of February 1821, I was appointed by Sir
Thomas Munro to command the provinces of Malabar and
Canara, vacant by the death of Lieutenant-colonel Lindsey:
The principal part of the journey being through places al-
ready mentioned, I shall pass over the whole till we left

176 MILITARY [A.D.

the foot of the Periah Pass, when proceeding by a new road
to Cannanore, we arrived first at Canote, twelve miles
from the bungalow at Nuddumbrseshawle ; our old friend
Mr. Baber, the Circuit Judge, having kindly come out to
meet us the day before. This is a small place on the high
road, with a little bridge over a small mountain stream ;
and it is in a wild and beautiful spot, abounding with all
kinds of game.

Our next march was to Cotaparamba, eight miles on-
ward, an old square fort, on a commanding eminence,
having a house in each of the bastions, and a delightful
view in every direction. The Pioneers doing duty in
Malabar and Canara, were at that time stationed at this
place, under Lieutenant Uovvley ; and from it's height
above the surrounding country, and more above the level
of the sea, it must be both cool and healthy. Half-way
between this place and Cannanore, there is a wide and
deep river, over which a capital stone bridge was erected
a few years back by Captain Ravenshaw, of the Engineers ;
and the high road, which formerly went round some miles
by Tellicherry; had now been made to pass directly
through it.

Cannanore, the capital of Malabar and Canara, is six-
teen miles nearly west of Cotaparamba; and here we
arrived on the 16th of March, and I assumed the com-
mand. The troops stationed in these provinces were, His
Majesty's 69th regiment, under Major Leshe ; the 2nd
battalion of the 7th regiment, Lieutenant-colonel R.
M'Dowall ; 1st battalion of the 7th regiment, Major Bal-
main; 1st battalion of the 18th regiment, Lieutenant-

\^~\.] RKMINISCKNCKS. 177

colonel Pereira. Artillery, Captain Brett ; and our old
friend, Captain W. Garrard, engineer.

The 2nd battalion of the 7th regiment lieing sfatioiicd
at Mangalore, furnished five companies for the nortlurn
out-posts of Sedasheegur, Oonoor, Jiunmaulahad, ^e.;
the southern parties being detached from the other two
Native corps, alternately, as far as Paulghaut. Having to
review the corjjs stationed at iNIanoalore, as a part of the
duty of this command, 1 shall here give a sketeh of the
land route, in one of those periodical journies.

From Cannanore to Balliapatam, wlu-re we crossed a
wide and deep river by a good ferry, the distance is five
miles, and this place I have mentioned in 181J. Ten
miles further there is another river, with a ferry to Payen-
gadie, a very good town on the north bank, with an
up-stair bungalow for travellers. It has a small hill imme-
diately behind it ; and the river, winding up the country,
affords excellent shooting of all descriptions. Another
ferry, six miles onward, leads across to a bungalow erected
by Mr. Baber, in a wild spot for sporting ; but the road
beyond Balliapatam is very bad, and totally unfit for wheel
carriages. The next stage is Kautcutcherry, a distance of
twelve miles; this is a wretched building in jungle, some
distance from the sea, and on a back-water with a ferry.
Wc got pea-fowl, ;n:c., both stages. Eight miles further is
the Fort of Hoosdroog, on the sea-coast; it has been a
place of some consequence, in days of yore, and is in a
delightful situation, A mile further we found a tolerable
resting-place, at a clean village called Adeanoor, with a
picturesque little fort, one mile inland, called Poodicottah;

178 MILITARY [A.D.

this is a pleasant place, with a good view of the sea, at a
short distance to the left. Pushing on in the afternoon,
we came to a place called Beycull, where there is an exten-
sive fort in ruins, which has been strong. It is built on a
rocky cliff, overhanging the sea, and commands the shore
and country all round. In it I found several dismounted
Sfuns, some even of larg-e calibre ; and there is a small har-
hour to the southward. We were forced to swim our
horses over a river in this short march. Seven miles from
Beycull is the fort of Chandergeery, on a high cliff, which
commands the passage of a very broad river, and all the
surrounding country ; and is one of the strongest and best
chosen spots I have seen along the whole coast. The
situation is really delightful, and the river, with enormous
high banks, has many picturesque islands in it. Two
miles further on is a capital choultry, at a place called
Cassergode, in a very beautiful country, with an old fort,
called Caniarote, a short distance from it, containing also
some iron guns, without carriages, from nine to eighteen-
pounders. Five miles further on is another river, over
which we were also forced to swim our horses ; and nine
miles from Cassergode is a comfortable choultry, in a
flourishing village called Coomlah, on the bank of a broad
river. This place, as well as Cassergode, appears a port of
considerable trade, and there is an old fort on the northern
bank, commanding the ferry; the next stage is Munjer-
sweer, nine miles. There are also two rivers in this portion
of the road, both fordable at low water ; the last close to the
town, which is large and pleasantly situated. There is
likewise a good choultry for travellers, and a gentleman's

1823. J RKMINISCENCF.S. 179

bungalow, a short distance inland. Crossing a small river
atOolall, nine miles further, and the Mangalore one, about
three from that, the whole distance is nearly ninety miles ;
but the number of ferries, and more particularly tlie smaller
streams, unprovided with such means of crossing, must
make this a difficult march for troojis, &.C., from the month
of June to September.

On the 6th of May, I was appointed to the command of
Vellore, my first station in the Carnatic, and on the 18th
embarked from Calicut in the Aurora, for Pondicherry,
which place we reached on the 28th of tlie same month.

Pondicherry is, I am happy to say, once more rising
again. Phoenix-like, under the influence of the Conde de
Puis, a respectable nobleman, who is daily improving it ;
we met many genteel families, which were becoming
scarce when I was last there, and many new houses have
been built, streets cleared and widened, and the whole
wears a more prosperous aspect, than it did in 1809.

On the 29th, there was a grand Fete de Dieu, and bells
ringing and guns firing all day, to prevent the inhabitants
from forgetting it ; yet I found no difficulty in obtaining
conveyances, carriage for baggage, Sec, and left the place
that evening, arriving at Tindewannum the next morning ;
a distance of twenty-four miles and a half. There is a large
village and fine stone tank here, with two good bungalows
on the bank, sheltered by large trees ; and the surrounding
countiy full of game.

The next stage was Dessoor, nearly twenty-four miles,
where we found only a miserable dirty mud and brick
choultry. Whether this contrast be the eft'ect of chance or
N 2

180 MILITARY [A.D.

caprice, it is equally annoying to travellers, in the hottest
part of the Carnatic.

On the 1st of June, we arrived at Arnee, twenty-one miles
and a half further. This is an old fort, of some conse-
quence thirty years ago, with very good barracks and
other public buildings ; it is in very low ground, and
excessively hot all the year round. At this time it was
garrisoned by a Native veteran battalion only, under the
command of Major Simpson, with whom we put up for the
day, in a very comfortable bungalow outside. Pushing on
the next morning, we reached Vellore at sun-rise, twenty-
three miles, and I assumed the command.

VELLORE.
This place, now completely modernized, is greatly im-
proved in the interior, having got rid of many crowded
patches of native houses, and every kind of rubbish.
There is a capital parade in the centre, wide streets in every
direction, and all the bastions have got the original heavy
stone battlements replaced by regular parapets, with em-
brasures for cannon ; while those of the fosse-bray still
standing entire, present an extraordinary and agreeable
admixture of Oriental and European architecture. The
hill forts have been repaired, and are still occupied by
small guards. The Government-house, which is inhabited
by the Commanding officer, is situated near the only gate,
with the parade, and, indeed, nearly the whole interior,
within view. It is a large, up-stair building, with a flat
terraced roof, and the panorama from above is one of the
most diversified and beautiful to be found in the East ;

1823.] REMINISCENCES. 18|

combining- an uncommonly fertile valley, watered by a line
river, with every tint of Oriental verdure; the hill forts frown-
ing over one-fourth, and various distant mountains scat-
tered, as it were for effect, in the remainder : amongst wliicli,
in a clear day, are to be seen the range of ghauts leading to
Mysore, and the hill-forts of Sautghur, Dobyghur, &:c. A
Palace was built on the opposite side of the parade in 1799,
and enclosed with a very high wall, for tlie family of the
late Sultan of Mysore; the male part, including the
Princes, had been removed to Bengal in the year 1806,
but the females still inhabited their original apartments ;
while the ex-King of Candy, Sovereign of Ceylon, was a
state prisoner in those of the Princes. The whole were
now under the charge of Lieutenant-colonel Augustus
Andrews, as Pay-master of Stipends.

The King of Candy is, I believe, still alive in the same
place ; he has many attendants, is liberally supplied, and
permitted to go about the fort in the day time, with consi-
derable state. Being an uncommonly large and corpulent
man, with horrid features, and excessively dark, he has
such an idea of the consequence attached to corpulency,
that he actually stuffs his garments in front with a laroe
pillow, every time he goes out in an open palanquin. He
is reported to have lost his kingdom by violence and op-
pression, his own subjects having joined the ['English in his
overthrow; and even now, when a state prisoner, witjiout a
shadow of power, he at times gets into the most indecent
and violent fits of rage, and makes the whole fort of \'ellore
resound witli his voice, in terms of reproach or abuse of
his attendants. This monster is too well used ; a re-

182 MILITARY [A.D.

mark not generally applicable to the situation of state
prisoners.

In my former notice of this place, I mentioned alligators
as inhabiting the ditch : these amphibious reptiles had
originally, from the unfinished state of the counter-scarp,
been iii the habit of roving all about the neighbourhood,
and had been known to travel as far as Arnee during the
night ; but their principal resort, after the ditch of Vellore,
was a very fine lake, called Chitterbury Tank, about four
miles to the westward; which, however, they frequented
during the rains only. After the mutiny in this garrison,
in the year 1806, the Pioneers were ordered to repair
the works, clean out the ditch, and finish the counter-
scarp, an undertaking of considerable difficulty, which,
however, was completed in 1807. The alligators, by this
arrangement, became also state prisoners, but still che-
rished and protected by the orders of Government; till
some time in 1822, when a fine boy, the son of a Subadar
of a Native corps in the cantonment, the troops being
cantoned outside of the fort, was amusing himself with a
favourite dog, on the cause-way across the ditch from the
sally-port, and running backward, he suddenly fell over
into the ditch, and was instantly seized by a large alligator,
and carried under water. A hue and cry brought crowds to
the spot, and, amongst the rest, came the father of the ill-
fated child, who arrived in time to see the monster rise and
swim about with his son's body across his mouth. No
human power could have effected any thing to save the
victim, who was already a corpse ; but the feelings of every
person in the place were roused, to think that these animals

l^i'23.] RKMINlSCKNCIiS. 183

should be pemiitted to feast on human Hcsli ; and an
authority was received from Government, to destroy them
whenever they could be found. The h\te Lieutenant-
colonel Sale was then stationed here, and being a keen
sportsman and good shot, he is said to have killed six-and-
thirty in a few months. On my arrival they had become
rather scarce; however I had the pleasure, during my short
stay, of killing six or eight more ; and although the ditch
is exceedingly broad, and has weeds in some places to
conceal them from the sportsman's view, yet under such a
sanction, and with such excitement, the few that remain
are not likely long to escape destruction.

When I was first stationed at W>llore, all the officers
and soldiers lived in the fort, in barracks and public quar-
ters ; now the staff only reside within, and there are nume-
rous houses in the cantonments, about a mile off, for the
officers of two corps, forming the garrison. Still the
neighbourhood of the hills, affording ample shelter for all
kinds of game, furnished only a few years ago, an adven-
ture not very common in places long inhabited by. man.
In the year 1813, when on a visit to my friend. Captain
R. Inverarity, then Adjutant to the second battalion of the
3rd regiment, who lived in one of the houses in the can-
tonment, we had been spending the Evening with another
old friend. General Hall, then commanding in the fort,
and, walking home late at night, without even a stick in our
hands, we suddenly encountered a large tiger. By mere
accident I observed him crouching down, on the side of
the road next to my companion, and instantly turning half
round, with a jerk, brought him in our front, and whistled

184 MILITARY [A.D.

loudly; the brute then rose, and, to our no small satisfac-
tion, turned about, and walked off towards a Sepoy place of
arms, at no great distance. Not a little elated to have
thus put such an adversary to the route, we first set up a
shout, and then called out to the Sepoys to be on their
guard. We both thought it was a royal tiger; but two
days afterwards a large panther was killed and brought
in to the General. The mention of this circumstance has
introduced another of the many intimate friends, whom it
has been my fate to survive. Major-general Hamilton Hall.
After a previous acquaintance of some years, we were fellow-
passengers from England to India, in the year 1808 ; when
our families consequently contracted a friendship which
time only served to improve, and we became like the
nearest relations. Always of a very infirm habit, my friend,
by great care and abstinence, contrived to hold out for
some years beyond what those who knew his sufferings,
could have supposed possible : but nature at length gave
way, and he died at Trichinopoly in the year 1827, while
in command of the Southern division.

1824.] RKMINlSCENCliS. 185

CHAPTER V.

Uou/c to Travancorc — I'/ic 'l\ipoor Pass — Suiikn/dron^ — The Coiiii-
hiitoor Count I-}/ — Puii/mic/itrrt/ — Extruordituni/ Muiclir at Qitilun —
1 ctlimanoor — Trichuor.

On the 24th of January, 1824, I received information
from Madras, of my appointment by Sir Thomas Munro,
to command the Subsidiary force in Travancore and
Cochin ; in consequence of which we left Vellore on the
3rd of February, and as we proceeded by a new route, I
sliall give the particulars verbatim from my Journal.

A. M BOOR.
*' February 4th, thirty-two miles. — This is a large village,
with a miserable choultry, and we were obliged to put up
tent-walls in it, to make it habitable : but in India, in the
day-time, almost any building is cooler, and consequently,
preferable to a tent. The old hill fort of this name, now
dismantled, is about four miles oil' to the northward ; it
was once a place of consequence."

186 MILITARY [A.D.

VANIAMBADY.
" February 5th, thirteen miles and a quarter.— This
day we set out at half past one, A. M., and reached a
tolerable choultry at half past six ; near the old and exten-
sive mud fort, which was once faced with stones, but
which have been gradually removed for more useful pur-
poses. It is situated on the bank of a branch of the Pallaar,
and full of inhabitants ; the road very good. There is a
range of hills a few miles to the right, on one of which is
an old fort, called Maleekranjen Ghurr."

TRIPATOOR.
" February 6th, fifteen miles. — Starting at four, A. M., we
reached a very neat open bungalow at this place, at a quarter
before eight : the road being tolerable for foot passengers,
but generally bad for carriages the whole way. There is a
good stone teepoo gooutah, or pond with an island in the
centre, close by, surrounded by beautiful Peepul trees, a
species of the Ficus Indicus, already mentioned."

MUTTOOR.
" February 7th, thirteen miles and a half. — We set out
at four, A. M., and lost our way in the dark for half an
hour, which made us rather late in arriving at a miserable
hovel in the small village of Muttoor. The road was very
good the whole way, and we passed over the bank of a fine
lake, full of wild ducks, &c., called Kakungerry, about five
miles off; several hill forts in sight, at some distance, to
the northward."

1824.] RKMINISCENCIiS. 187

\ KRRAMUITOOR.
" Sunday, February 8th, eleven miles and a half. —
Having moved off about half past three, we arrived at hall"
past six, at a dirty mud hovel, which was not cleaned and
fitted up with tent-walls, &.C., till half past seven. Several
hill forts in sight to-day ; Ryacottah far to the westward ;
and one immensely high and strong by nature, called
Ghughunghur. The cholera made it's appearance amongst
our followers ; but I was, under Providence, fortunate in
administering relief."

DURIlUiMFOORY
" February 9th, fourteen miles. — We set forward at
four, A. M., and reached Mr. Drury's house at this place,
at half past seven, where we were most kindly welcomed.
We passed over the bank of an immense lake, perfectly
dry, about six miles on ; and a fine little rivulet, with some
water, winds along near the road, for about ten or twelve
miles. This appears a nice cool spot ; though Mr. Drury's
family are the only Europeans, in a place, once of some
extent, as the capital of the Burrah Mhaule and the head
quarters of Sir Thomas Munro, when Collector; the very
house we are now in was built by him, thirty years ago,
and every door and window is still entire, as is his name
engraven in the heart and memory of every inhabitant,
throughout this district. I am inclined to think Mr. Drury,
the present Sub-collector, is treading in this truly great
man's steps ,• as I saw him at a distance from the house
in the evening, without any attendants, surrounded by
Natives, for upwards of an hour ; and this being on the

188 MILITARY [A.D.

very same spot, recalled to my mind what I knew to be the
invariable custom of his predecessor in all situations, and
led me to listen with a willing ear, to his praises."

TAPOOR PASS.

''February 10th, eighteen miles. — We left the hospit-
able roof of Mr. Drury at half past two, A.M., reached
the top of the Pass at daylight, and descending by a
rugged stony road, but no where very steep, put up in an
open choultry on the bank of a stony rivulet, very little
beyond the foot of the pass at eight, A. M. It was one of
the coldest mornings I have felt for many years ,• and our
halting place, in a low stony valley, rendered the extremes
more perceptible. I saw some pea-fowls in the Pass, but
our followers being scattered about, prevented my getting
within shot.

" I had this day and night occasion to practise on my
own family, and under the most painful uncertainty, the
knowledge I had acquired of the treatment of the spas-
modic cholera; and the Almighty was graciously pleased
to crown my humble efforts with success. In this very
spot six months before, as our servants were coming to
Vellore, from the Malabar coast, my cook and his mother
both fell victims to this dreadful malady, although my butler,
Gholaum Hyder, tried all his art to save them ; having been
an able and willing assistant to his master, in the years
1818 and 1819. My servants and followers now became
afflicted, and we had hard work to persuade them that their
lives depended on an early application of the remedy; we
had moved from this golgotha in the cool of the evening,

1824.] rmminiS(;f,n<;f,s. IRQ

and encamped in a beautiful spot close to the road atTewu-
typetty, seven miles on ; passing through some of the most
tempting ground for shooting on the way; in whicli I saw
pea-fowl, jungle-fowl, wild ducks, snipes, &.c. My trial
came on afterwards, and lasted till nearly daylight ; but at
length liad a happy terminntion."

OMAl,OC)I{.
" February 11th, ten miles. — -A delightful choultry on
the bank of a rivulet, shaded by majestic Peepul trees.
The village is large and at a short distance off the road to
the right, and about six miles from our last ground, there
was a beautifully romantic village situated in a bower, on
the bank of a deep winding rivulet : I fancy this is the
same stream. There is a creeping plant here, winding itself
round several of the largest trees, and in all sorts of fan-
tastic fornis ; but how it has contrived to throw itself from
tree to tree, I cannot possibly conceive. It is generally the
thickness of a stout man's arm ; and at the base measured
fifty inches in circumference. The Natives call it aheekai,
or cheekaij ; the leaves .are small and delicate, and the
small branches only covered with thorns, like fishhooks.
Strange to say, we also found some tall trees of the same
species, whilst this one was entirely a creeper."

SALEM.
'' February the 12th, twelve miles. — In a cool delightful
morning we reached Mr. Carpenter's house, now unoccu-
pied, at the farthest end of the town, which is very exten-
sive. This gentleman was Commercial Resident, and died

190 MILITARY [A.D.

at this station some years back ; he was a most hospitable,
liberal man, and yet left a handsome fortune. This is not
only an extensive, but a beautiful spot ; the ground is laid
out with much taste, and divided by a railing and turn-
stile : there is another house, the property of Mr. Heath,
elegantly furnished, but the family absent ; the whole
bordered by a small brook. The Shevroy Hills, which were
in sight during the whole march, approach to within seven
miles of Salem, and are about six miles further to the
summit. On enquiry of a Peon who accompanied us, he
told me that there are eighty or one hundred villages on
the plain above, where Mr. Cockburn, the Collector, re-
sides with his family, enjoying a bracing climate ; though
not equally congenial to the poor natives of the low
country, who may have business there. This man also
pointed out another range to the south-westward, on which
he said there' were also twenty or thirty villages."^ — These
Shevroy Hills ultimately became the resort of all the gen-
tlemen who could spare time and money for such a trip,
from Trichinopoly, Tanjore, &c. ; but some years after-
wards, a sickly season drove the whole survivors away, no
doubt to the no small delight of the servants, who were
forced to try a new climate on these occasions, as there is
nothing the natives dislike so much as cold at all times.

M'DONELL'S CHOULTRY.

" February 14th, fourteen miles. — We left Salem at

half-past four, A. M., and passed through a fine undulating

country, intersected by rivulets, and having regular fields,

surrounded by hedges, and an avenue for the greater part

1824.] RKMINISCKNCF.S. 191

of the way. Our tents were pitched under a wdd fig-treo,
the choultry being a perfect ruin : at five, P. M., we re-
sumed our march, and, stopping at a small temple, ludf-
way, to drink tea, pushed on again through a beautiful
avenue, in a clear moon-light night, till half-past ten,
P. I\I,, when we reached Oram's bungalow, at

SANKRYDROOG;
Fifteen miles. Here we had made a long day's march,
but, it being Saturday, we were enabled to rest the next
morning, and spend the Sabbath in a very comfortable
habitation.

" February 15th. This hill fort was once not only strong,
but a place of consequence in the Burrah Mhaul; it's
real name is Sunkiil Droog, or Chain Mountain : it was a
large military station for several years, and still retains
vestiges of former importance, such as tomb-stones, moul-
dering barracks, decayed walls, and tottering ruins. In
the lower fort there are twenty excellent guns, and abund-
ance of shot; with about twelve guns, &,c., on the hill,
which is very high and rugged, but not so strong by nature
as Nundydroog, or several other hill forts I have seen ;
though from the number of works, one above another to
the summit, it has an imposing appearance. As if aware
of the sacred day, I saw hares running about, within
the walls this morning, and other game outside ; and the
Moneygar, or Native manager, Chundriapooly, informed
me, there were abundance of every description, particularly
tigers, some of which had lately killed some cows in the
neighbourhood. Thus it is in the East, wherever bipeds

192 MILITARY [A.D.

decrease, particularly the military, these four-footed gentry
abound and usurp the sway. The appearance of every
thing in this morning ramble, could not fail to make a
soldier call to painful remembrance many of his old com-
rades, and some of his earliest associates in the field, now
silently mouldering in the tomb : but these feelings, oc-
casionally indulged, serve to improve the mind, which
delights to dwell on the excellencies of those who are now
no more. Under the influence of such reminiscences,
the late Lieutenant-colonel Oram stood before me : he had
commanded this place as a Captain for many years, and
the very regiment in which I had risen to Lieutenant-
colonel now went by his name. A strict disciplinarian,
and an excellent tactician, every man under his com-
mand became a soldier in mind as well as in body ; and
being excessively particular in his own dress, he went
by the name of the ' Sepoy Maccaroni :' but as he was
the absolute master, so he was the kind and considerate
father and protector of all ; and the large and handsome
allowances of command, were by him appropriated to the
purpose for which they must have been originally intended,
to conduce to the comfort and happiness of those whom he
so ably commanded. At this distant period, his name is
never uttered by the old Sepoys of the Madras army
without affection ; and what is more extraordinary, his
house, in which we now found such comfortable shelter, is,
after a lapse of thirty years, in a state of perfect repair,
while many others, of later construction, have not a stone
left, to tell where they stood. His amiable character is
still cherished in the grateful memory of the Natives,

1824.] REMINISCENCES. 193

though so many years have elapsed since he ceased to
exist, and his property is respected as the relique of a
superior being, where there is not even a solitary European
at the station, to see, or in any way influence their conduct.
In contrast to this just tribute to the memory of a brave
and respectable officer, I must mention a large hovel in the
very next compound, built by a successor of Captain
Oram, whose name I purposely omit ; it was very exten-
sive, and cost the poor inhabitants and Sepoys much
labour and pains to erect ; he laid all equally under con-
tribution, making every man, and even their cattle, bring
bricks daily to the spot, until a large house was finished
for his residence. He has long since paid the debt of
nature, it is to be hoped, influenced by more Christian
principles, ere he was called to his dread account ; but be
that as it may, his memory is execrated, and his house
dilapidated by the very heathens who cherish that of his
predecessor. Yet this is a nation whom Europeans in
general are too apt to think incapable of discrimination,
and consequently undeserving of their regard."

ERROAD.
" February 16th, fifteen miles. — By good luck we set
out at half-past three ; for never in my life did I meet
with a river so difficult to cross as the Bowauny, within a
mile of this place ; even at this uncommonly dry season,
the water was, in some places, six and seven feet dee]), in
one-third of the bed, full of large rocks, and the remainder,
being many hundred yards, deep sand, thick set with
stones, about the size of a man's head. We crossed the

VOL. 11. <)

194 MILITARY [A.D.

ferry in a wicker basket, covered with raw hides, of con-
siderable dimensions ; but how our carriages and carts got
over, 1 cannot tell. We pvxt up in a bungalow in the old
fort, belong-incr to Mr. Heath, who has a contract, I under-
Stand, for saltpetre, manufactured in this neighbourhood ;
but the fort, if it was ever strong, is now in ruins. My
poor followers are suffering and some dying daily, in spite
of all my exertions, and those of my able assistant, to
relieve them."

PERINDORY.
" February 17th, fourteen miles. — The road was capital
the whole way, and the country beautiful, being a series of
rich fields, with regular hedges. There is an excellent bun-
galow at this place ; my coolies are falling off daily, and
halting does not appear to do any good. I tried, however,
to give relief, by moving in the evenings instead of morn-
ings, that they might not be exposed to the early dew or
fogs, which are particularly injurious."

CHINGAPULLY.
" February 18th, evening, and 19th, morning, fifteen
miles. — We moved on in bandies, or gigs, in which we
continued till half past seven, P.M.; when coming to a
dreadful ravine, with steep sides and full of mud, 1 mounted
my horse, the rest taking to their palanquins. We got
through with much difficulty, and reached an excellent
bungalow at half past eight. The cholera is still increas-
ing, and the infatuated victims, neglecting to come to us,
in the first instance, assistance is, in many cases, subse-

1S24.] RRMINISCKNCKS. 195

quently unavailing-. One half of my followers were taken
ill last night and this morning; and to render this severe
trial even still more distressing, there is neither village nor
bazar here, only a native resting-place and Pagoda ; with
the bungalow apparently newly built, for the accommoda-
tion of European travellers."

AVANASSEE.
" February 19th, evening, eleven miles. — Setting out in
gigs, at four, P. M,, we passed a beautifully picturesque
village. Pagoda, and choultry, at four miles and a half,
called Peroomanellore. Crossed a very bad nullah at ten
miles, and arrived at this delightful place, and took posses-
sion of an elegant bungalow at eight, P. M. The next
morning I traversed the country right and left, from daylight
till eight, A. M. ; when I saw no less than ten alligators
in a small nullah, no where ten yards wide, and abundance
of wild ducks, water-crows, snipes, curlews, &c. I conse-
quently brought home some game. At a little distance
from the bungalow is a good Pagoda, with a stone bridge
across the nullah, and a teepoo cullum, or square stone
tank, and island, full of clear water. Indeed, the whole
vicinity is beautiful."

CURMUTTAiMPUTTIE.

" February 20th, evening, nine miles. — Settin>'- forward

at half past five, we reached this bungalow at a quarter

before eight, P. M. ; the latter part of the road being very

stony and uneven. There is a small Hindoo Temple

o 2

196 MILITARY [A.D.

here, and a Roman Catholic Church, seemingly large and
well built, close to it ; but no town, and only a few huts
to be seen in the neighbourhood."

CHENIAMPALIAM.
" February 21st, evening, nine miles. — Proceeding at
five, P. M., through a very good road, we reached a Native
choultry surrounded by a mud wall, called Ramanjee
Chuttrum, at half past seven, in which there was just room
for four palanquins, and our tea-things ; the rest of our
baggage having gone forward. There seemed to be nothing
extraordinary here ; and, being anxious to proceed imme-
diately, we did not remain to see it by dayUght."

COIMBATOOR.
" February 22nd, evening, nine miles. — Commencing
our march at five, A. M., in a clear moonlight morning, it
continued fine until six, when a fog came on so dense,
that it was impossible to see even to the sides of the road ;
during which we entered the town of Coimbatoor, and,
I suspect, drove all through and round it, before we could
find the object of our search, a capital Native house, of
which we took possession, by previous invitation. Our
dwelling had a large Hindoo rutt, or tare, in it's vicinity,
on the eastern extremity of the town, and near the old fort,
where, some thirty years back. Sir J. M. Chalmers, then a
Lieutenant of the Madras army, established a never-dying
fame, by a most gallant defence, with a handful of Sepoys,
against the whole army of Mysore. Recollecting some

1824.] KEMlNlSCIiNCKS. 11)7

passages iu that eventful occurrence, I visited every part of
this rehque of an old acquaintance, and even thought I
could trace the exact spot on the ramparts where the gal-
lant Chalmers overthrew a sleeping sentry into the ditch,
and thus produced a most happy eflect on the superstitious
minds of the defenders. Going his silent rounds during
the night, unknown to his garrison, he suddenly came upon
a spot where somewhat of a breach being effected in a
rampart, no where very difficult of ascent, he found the
sentry fast asleep on his post, and instantly tumbled him
over, musquet and all. It may easily be supposed that
Chowrie Mootoo was not long in obtaining a snug berth in
the muddy ditch below ; but not being perfectly contented
therewith, he began to bellow lustily, thus collecting his
comrades in the same time which his commanding officer
took to make good his unobserved retreat. A tale of
wonder was of course not wanting to embellish such cir-
cumstances ; for the drowsy sentinel declared, that an
enormous Jlaak/iuss, or evil Genius, had appeared to him,
and before he could fire off his piece, or give any alarm,
had hurled him over the ramparts, and disappeared ! The
post was afterwards doubly guarded, and no sentry was
ever again known to fall into the Raakhuss's clutches.

" In after life I became intimate with this distinguished
soldier : he was very severe with the Natives, while com-
manding a corps under the Sepoy General, not then appear-
ing fully to appreciate their national character; but when
advanced to the rank of Brigadier, he was mild and con-
siderate. I can speak positively from commanding a corps

198 MILITARY [A.D.

under him for many months at Poonah, where he was
much hked, and from his after conduct in command of the
Travancore Subsidiary force. But to return to Coimbetoor :
I received much civiUty from the Native Agents of the
Cochin Government, and Mr. Chve, the Assistant Col-
lector, who found us out after breakfast, and, having re-
ceived a letter from Mr. Drury, invited us to his house.
This was the only European gentleman we saw, but I be-
lieve there are several others, though the fog prevented my
being able to distinguish their houses, on approaching the
town. Our arrangements being made to proceed the next
morning, I could not accept of Mr. C.'s kind invitation to
visit him."

MUDGEERY.
" February 23rd, seven miles. — We set out at half past five,
just as the day broke ; passed over two fine strong banks of
extensive lakes, now nearly dry, but still serving to irrigate
some paddy ground, to the left of the road ; the first three
miles of which were through a beautiful country, after which
it was a barren plain. We put up in the long veranda of a
mud habitation for travelling Brahmins, a wretched spot ;
but all beyond it being deep jungle, we could not, there-
fore, pass it, to get to the next stage in one march. Here,
while a gracious Providence was blessing my endeavours to
save oiie of my own family, I had the misfortune to lose
one of my best servants, Skeik Ebraum, in spite of every
exertion in his behalf; a fine, intelligent, active young
man, he had accompanied me in my walk through the

1824.] RKMINISCENCKS. 199

ruins of the fort the evening before, and, T believe, eaten
a pouigranate, which 1 received as a compliment from a
Native, during my ramble. He was taken ill in the
morning, but I did not see him for some hours afterwards;
and, when we arrived liere, the hand of death was visibly
uj)on him, being already changed to the semblance of a
jet-black old man of eighty; he struggled, but with fortitude
and resignation, and lingered with a hope of amendment,
till one, A.M., when he breathed his last, and deprived me
of a most valuable and trusty servant. Absorbed as my
mind was in my own nearer concerns, I still felt a severe
shock when informed of the event ; but the Almighty was
graciously j)leased to spare me the keener agony of weeping
over those still more dear to me."

WELLYAUR.
" February 24th, nine miles. — We left Mudgeery at
day-light, with an escort of eight of the Collector's
Peons, armed with unserviceable nuisquets without bay-
onets, and only two flints amongst the whole party ;
passed through a deep jungle, and saw abundance of
game, save elephants and tigers, which were, by good luck,
scarce, and arrived at this choultry, on the bank of a river,
at eight, A. M. The whole road was stony and uneven,
and, aware of the strength of our escort, and expecting
larger game, I was forced to have my own arms in readi-
ness all the way. The poor Dufflidar made many excuses
for the unmilitary equipment of his party ; and it came
out at last, that they received two rupees only each per

200 MILITARY [A.D.

month ; their duty being solely confined to the laborious
task of escorting and defending passengers in a deep and
unhealthy jungle, of four-and-twenty miles extent, nearly
sans arms and ammunition. As the Duffadar complained of
the native Tahsildar, I promised, and did actually write to
the Collector, on the Nielgherries, on the subject. At this
stage the escort was relieved by an equal number, similarly
armed ; and after breakfast we proceeded, having a fresh
supply of bearers and coolies from Paulghaut. Three
miles on we passed an old choultry in the jungle; at five
another ; and at eight we crossed a beautiful river, where
we halted to rest our people for half an hour, before
going on to

PAULGHAUTCHERRY.
" February 24th, evening, sixteen miles. — From the
river at eight miles the jungle gets gradually thinner;
and we crossed another river two miles further on, from
whence a beautiful avenue of rich trees conducts to the
village of Poodoocherry, about half a mile distant : this
place is surrounded with rich cultivation, and we stopped
for a few minutes under the shade of a curringe, or kurrinj
tree, the loveliest green in the world, and in full blossom,
resembling the sweet-pea bloom. At four, P.M., we
reached Mrs. Sayer's house, at Paulghaut, and after taking
some refreshment, her servants conducted us to a capital
bungalow, belonging to a rich and respectable native of
Cahcut, called Vizram Syng, an old acquaintance of mine,
who has kindly built this mansion for the accommodation

I8'24.] RliMINISCENCliS. 'JO 1

of his European friends, when traveUing. Our joy at havino-
again entered the provinces of Malabar was very great,
considering the worst part of the journey over : we had, up
to this time, lost twelve of our followers, but some more
were still destined to swell the list to seventeen ; though
only one of those immediately in my service died, from
the circumstance of their always coming in time for relief.
" Mrs. Sayer, the industrious widow of a Conductor,
who had long been stationed at Paulghaut, and who was a
capital upholsterer, had been for some years employed by
us to make up articles of furniture, which she sends to all
parts of India ; and sometimes, I blush to own it, gets
nothing but empty promises of payment in return. Her
furniture, generally made of cedar, is strong, handsome,
and reasonable. She has a command of wood of every
description in the neighbouring jungles; and the im-
proved Tellicherry chair I have sketched, was made by lier.
Such people are as rare as they are useful in the East.
The rich Native, whose house we are occupying, being
at this time on a visit to his plantations in the neighbour-
hood, was most attentive and serviceable at this juncture ;
for our Vellore people, already thinned by casualties, and
dreading further ravages from the mortal enemy, lurking
in every part of the country, refused to go any further ;
and our palanquin-bearers got drunk, and refused to move
unless bribed by additional hire. I was, therefore, in this
out-of-the-way place, forced to borrow a large sum of
money, which Vizrani Syng advanced, and which 1 could
not repay nearer than Cochin. He also exerted his in-

202 MILITARY [A.D.

lluence for hours ere we could collect sufficient volunteers
to move on, only forty-three miles further. The state of the
roads here oblif2,ed me to divide my establishment, sending
my carriages and carts round by Chovvghaut, and keeping
only palanquins, riding horses, and coolies, to accompany
us to Trichoor.

" The fort of Paulghautcherry was originally one of the
keys to the Coimbetoor country, when in Tippoo's pos-
session. It is on a rising ground, about a mile from the
town, and was, I believe, tolerably strong. It is now
garrisoned by a company of Sepoys from Cannanore, a
solitary and unhealthy command, generally relieved every
six months. The country is certainly very beautiful, but
being surrounded by immense jungles, both Europeans
and Natives are exposed to fever, and that of the very
worst and most fatal kind."

WARENGACIIERRY.
" February 26th, morning, twenty-six miles. — Having,
with much exertion, got our animals to move off at half-past
ten, P.M., with additional lights, we came on nearly all
night, bearers and massaulchees, with five palanquins,
fighting and abusing one another the whole distance ; which
proved an admirable mode of keeping off wild beasts in
deep jungle. We reached this miserable hovel at seven,
A. M., being the only clear spot of any extent on the road.
Having come on in a palanquin the whole way, I cannot
speak positively to the state of the road, but we met with
no obstacles. We crossed a deep and beautiful river a short

1824.] rkminis(;kn(;ks. 203

distance from this place ; which, running into the sea at
Punaany, conveys the largest timbers from the jungle to
the sea-coast. We found a plentiful scarc/fi/ of every
thing at this apology for a resting-place, and I was forced
to shoot fowls, &.C., for a scanty meal ; whereas, in order to
preserve a free communication in such a country, there
ought to be not only a good choultry, or bungalow built
for passengers, but also a bazar established. Our obstinate
bearers, who seemed still drunk, refused to move at two, as
I wished them, knowing what an extent of jungle we had
to go through, so that we were forced to remain stationary
till half-past three, to my very great annoyance."

PUTTYCAUD.
" Same day, February 26th, evening, fourteen miles. —
Moving on by a tolerable road, through deep jungle, at sun-
set we came to the top of a very stony and rugged Ghaut,
in the Puttycaud mountains ; where, in order to protect the
whole, I was forced to dismount, and, armed with my double-
barrelled gun, led the van. We scrambled down in the
twilight with considerable difficulty, and it became quite
dark as we reached tlie foot. I had sent my riding horses
on an hour before, with two of my servants mounted on
them ; but, owing to the unevenness of the Pass, they had
only got down as we overtook them, when suddenly
they encountered a large elephant, who seemed as much
alarmed as they were ; gave a loud roar, and scampered off.
I did not even see him, though in sight of the horses, who,
both taking fright at the same moment, ran off in different

204 MILITARY [A.D.

directions ; one up a woody hill, while the other tumbled
over a small bridge, and hurt both his rider and keeper
very much. My coachman, who was on the former, being
a good horseman, escaped without injury. Still pushing
on, and frequently mistaking trees for bears, bushes for
tigers, and rocks for elephants, we reached Putticaud at
half-past eight, P. M. ; not a little gratified to find a long
and comfortable building like a barrack, capable of receiv-
ing all our palanquins and servants in one end ; the other
being appropriated to a guard of light infantry, from the
force under ray command. Here I was perfectly at home,
and grateful for the merciful protection we had experienced
in such a journey. The whole road this evening, through a
series of Ghauts, though the last was the largest and only
one of consequence, was one of the worst I ever saw, even
for horses; and no wheeled carriage could ever get through
it. The last Ghaut has been fortified, and must have been
very strong, from it's height, and the impervious nature of
the jungle. I have never seen a deeper; and, in wet
weather, when the grass is rank, it must be nearly, if
not completely impassable."

TRICIIOOR.
" February 27th, eleven miles. — At day-light we again
set out, escorted by sundry Duffadars and Peons, who
came last night to meet us with letters, 8cc. ; the jungle
decreasing as we advanced, and the road improving, with
a considerable quantity of cultivation on both sides in this
march. We found Captain Perry, of the Trichinopoly

1824.] REMINISCENCES. 205

Light infantry, with his own company, and one of the
Cochin Rajah's, drawn out to receive us at Colonel Newall's
bungalow, on our arrival at nine, A. M. ; and licre I as-
sumed the command of the subsidiary force, according to
my appointment. This bungalow was built at the Rajah's
expense, for my friend Captain Lethbridge, when he was
in charge of the forests ; and on his removal to Trevan-
deram, the house was considered as the Resident's, and
can only be used by himself or his friends. The Com-
mandant of the station has a house at some distance, and
barracks for the head quarters of two companies, detached
from Quilon. The Resident having ordered two of the Ra-
jah's cabin boats for us, we had only to send our palanquins
and baggage in common boats by water to Quilon, a dis-
tance of one hundred and seventy miles, proceeding our-
selves by her Highness's barges, so kindly forwarded for
our accommodation."

COCHIN.
" February 28th, eighty miles. — We embarked at sun-
set last evening ; but the tide being at ebb, had much
difficulty to get on, particularly with the Cochin Rajah's
boat, which is larger than the long boat of a China ship.
We remained altogether in it till ten, P. M., when, after
tea, we separated for the night ; the younger part of the
family going into Colonel Newall's own boat, the Antelope,
an uncommon smart ten-oared vessel. We were assisted
all the way by relays of boatmen, and country people, who
rowed and pulled us through every obstacle. At seven,
A. M., after thirteen hours' work, we were abreast of Pali-

206 MILITARY [A.D.

port ; and at eleven arrived at Mr. Schuler's house, at
Cochin, where we met our old friends of many years stand-
ing, and breakfasted with them. The gentleman, a Prus-
sian by birth, and now Master-attendant of Quilon, was
then eighty years of age ; and his lady, a French woman,
about sixty. We had known them at Pallamcottah, in
1801 and 1802. After breakfast we re-embarked, and
arrived at the Residency at noon."

BALGIIATY.
" February 28th and 29th. — Here we took possession of
a delightful Palace, in one of the loveliest spots in the East ;
and being all much fatigued, determined to take another
day's rest. Every thing about this island has an Euro-
pean appearance, the trees and verdure in particular ; and
I could be contented to live in it during the remainder of
my oriental exile. To-day I had a kind visit from my old
acquaintance Neujepiah, Prime Minister of Cochin, who
is really doing wonders for his imbecile master, and has
nearly got him out of debt. He is a very sensible and
obliging man; and I felt particularly gratified by his
attention."

QUILON.
'' March 1st, ninety miles. — Embarking last night at
eight, P.M., with twelve oars and a good breeze, we arrived
at day-light at a mud bank in the back-water, over which
the boats are always drawn by the posse comitatus. We
passed a black stone image in the water, about which the
Natives have a ridiculous tradition ; stopped at a Pagoda

1(S24.] RmfiNiscr^NrHs. 207

and bridge to take our breakfast, and reached the Residency
at tour, P.M., wliere \\c were most kindly welcomed by
Colonel Newall, and became his guests, while the Uanee's
house, next door, was preparing tor our reception. The
troops at present under my conniiand are the 1st battalion
of the 16th, or Trichinopoly Light infantry ; the -'nd bat-
talion of the 1st, and 2nd battalion of tlie 4th regiments,
with a company of European artillery."

Here ends the Journal from N'elloie, and this place has
been already described in 1817. On the Sth, my servants
and heavy baggage arrived from the Chow Chaut by
water, in several boats. Having lost two or three more on
the march to that place, the total casualties by cholera
amounted to seventeen.

On the 13th of March, I was awakened at midnight by
the report of a musquet, immediately under my bed-room
window ; and running down stairs, and making towards
the spot, I was met by several of my servants and Sepoys
of the guard, who all entreated me not to venture out : but
as they were too confused to tell what had occurred, I
made my way through them, and found the Naigue of the
guard weltering in his blood. Pushing on beyond him, it
being clear moonlight, I then met a Sepoy with a musquet
in his hand, whom the people behind declared would shoot
me. I ordered him to lay down his arms, which he
instantly did, and came towards me. I asked him who
had killed the Naigue, he said it was himself, on which I
seized him, and ordered the Sepoys to bind him imme-
diately. We found several musquets loaded on the spot,
and going towards the guard-room, I was again warned not

208 MILITARY [A.D.

to approach, as my servants said the house was full of
armed men ; it was, however, quite empty, and at length I
ascertained the real fact.

The guard at my house being an honorary one, was com-
posed of men from the light infantry, who were all armed
with short musquets and swords. Observing in the afternoon
one of the sentries over my door, with his musquet and sword
fixed, I told him to unfix it and lay by the gun, the sword was
sufficient. This was to render the duty easier to him, and
it did not occur to me to mention the same to the Naigue
of the guard, who had the charge of the sentries. Shortly
after, the Naigue going his rounds in the compound, found
the musquet lying down, and the sentry walking at some
distance, he lifted it up, and carried it to the guard-house,
to remain with the rest ; and my servants afterwards
told him, that I had ordered the sentry at my door to use
his sword only ; when he was perfectly satisfied, and re-
lieved the sentry afterwards, as if nothing had occurred :
all this had happened in the evening. Junglee, the Naigue,
was a man originally of inferior caste, but had been adopted
and brought up as a Mussulman ; he was a remarkably
smart and good soldier ; and, expecting to be promoted to
the rank of Havildar, or Serjeant, the next day, had his
worsted sash, straps, and distinguishing marks in his knap-
sack, ready to put on the next morning, as Havildar of
the Commanding officer's guard, when this fatal circum-
stance occurred. He had volunteered the duty, out of his
turn, from a laudable desire to appear at the onset of his
new rank, in charge of an honorary guard, and being a
favourite for good conduct, it was unfortunately granted.

1824. REMINISCENCES. 209

The sentinel in question, Sheik Ally, was also a Mussul-
man, but of a most vindictive and irritable temper. lie
considered the Naigue's action of taking his musquet
away to the guard-room, as an implied censure on his con-
duct, and secretly vowed revenge, without any attempt at
explanation.

The evening being uncommonly fine, the whole guard,
two sentries excepted, had assembled on a sloping bank,
between the house and the guard-room, where they amused
themselves in social chat, and at nine, P. M., took their
suppers. At this time the prisoner ])assing by, the Naigue
called out to him to come and take his supper ; he replied,
he did not want any, and passed on to the guard-room, in
the shade under some large trees. Some of my servants
had now also joined the social party, who, after beguiling
the evening, had all gone to sleep, when the assassin
having loaded several musquets, crept softly up to the spot
on which they were lying, and singling out his victim,
put the piece almost close to his body and firing, threw it
down and seized another. The ball entering his chest,
passed through his body and penetrated the ground, up-
wards of a foot, while the powder actually set fire to his
clothes. The soul escaped with a deep groan, while his
comrades rising on both sides the lifeless trunk, were in-
stantly appalled by the monster presenting tlie other
musquet, and denouncing vengeance on any one who
should venture to approach him. They accordingly crept
and scampered off, as fast as their terror would permit
them, until encountered by me, as already related.

The villain was tried by a general Court Martial, found

VOL. II. r

210 MILITARY [A.D.

guilty, and sentenced to be hanged in chains ; but the publi-
cation of the sentence being delayed for three months, it
was supposed he was going to be pardoned, and, strange to
relate, he contrived while in prison in the main guard, to
create a too general feeling among the Natives, in his
favour. When the order at length arrived, the wretch
came on the parade, sleek, finely dressed, and smiling, as
if he were going to be raised to some dignity, instead of
suffering the most ignominious death. In order the more
fully to impress the minds of his fellow-soldiers, with a
proper sense of his guilt and punishment, after the
sentence had been read aloud to the whole, formed in a
square, he was led round with a rope about his neck, and
then hanged in the centre ; I suspect, much to their
amazement.

I warned the whole of the punishment which must al-
ways await such diabolical conduct ; and being informed
that his friends intended to remove the body from the
most ignominious part of the sentence ; I ordered a guard
of his own corps over the fixed gallows, to which the body
was removed by the Provost Marshal, and kept them there
for three days and nights, until it was quite putrid ; ex-
plaining my reasons and holding them responsible for it's
continuance. They were no sooner removed, than the
body, chains and all, disappeared, and were never more
heard of. I had, however, carried my point, in retaining it
such a time to public view, and I envy not the feelings of
those who afterwards purloined the perishing remains.

This circumstance recalls a similar occurrence to my
mind, which, as it escaped me in it's proper place, I will re-

1824. J KEMINISCKNCKS. 211

late here. In the "year 181!), when residiiio- at Calicut,
where there were generally IVoui two to lour hundred con-
victs confined in a secure gaol, under a strong guard of
Sepoys ; about eleven o'clock at night, a man aj)j)roached
the gate where two sentries were standing, armed with
musquets and bayonets; and when chaUenged by the nearest
sentinel, immediately aimed a blow at his head witli a sabre,
which cleft his turban, and laid him senseless on the ground.
Then turning to the other, who attempted to receive
hiui on his bayonet, cut through his musquct with one
blow and wounded him severely in the shoulder with the
second. Thus having mastered the two soldiers at the gate,
he rushed in to complete the work so fearCuily begun, and
several people were observed at the corner of the wall
ready to back him, if somewhat more successful : at this
moment the Havildar of the guard having been awakened
by the short struggle outside, seized his halbert, and
was just rushing out as the incendiary advanced ; lie
had barely time to charge, and receiving him on the point,
transfixed him on the spot. Thus perished a ruffian, who
had exhibited courage and prowess worthy of a better
cause ; but the sequel is to my purpose. The body was
claimed the next morning, and given up to some Mussul-
mans, who immediately carried it into the public bazar of
the town, and exposed it as the remains of a saint, which
was said to perform miracles, and to shed drops of blood,
when addressed by the supplicants; discover stolen goods,
and other juggler's tricks. I never heard whether the
police interfered, or not, but had the same haj)pened,
p 2

212 MILITARY [A.D.

where I commanded, I would have ordered the body to
have been suspended from a tree or gibbet, in terrorem, and
not suffered a soul to approach it until time had proved it
to be purely mortal.

On the 1 1th of July, Captain J.D. Rand, in the tempo-
rary command of the 15th regiment of Native infantry,
died of the liver complaint at Quilon. He had been
confined a whole month, and every exertion made for
his recovery. The body was opened, and several quarts
of matter taken from his liver, which was in a state
of perfect solution, with three large abscesses. His pulse
had always been high, from one hundred and five to one
hundred and ten ; but otherwise he had none of the symp-
toms we are accustomed to observe in the formation of
abscesses, viz., hiccough, retching, spasms, and sliivering
fits : any one of the three abscesses would have killed a
horse. I never saw any thing equal to them, though he
was actually singing a delightful song at the mess the
night before he was taken ill ; for he was a capital musi-
cian, and one of the finest tempered fellows I ever knew.
Such a mass of corruption could not possibly be the form-
ation of one short month. He had been extremely unfor-
tunate in promotion, and frequently superseded in the
service, which was supposed to be preying on his mind
more than disease, at the early part of his confinement ;
but disease must have been at work for a length of time, to
have accomplished such an object. He died in my arms
without a struggle, and I had the melancholy satisfaction
of giving his cold remains every honour that could be paid

18"24.] RE.MINISCKNCliS, 'J 1 o

to a Field officer; ami, there being no Clergyman present ul
the time of his demise, of also reading the Funeral service
over him myself.

YETIIMANOOR,
On the 4th of November I set out in company with
Lieutenant-colonel Newall, Major Robertson, Captain Leth-
bridge, and Mr. Dalmahoy, Assistant-surgeon, in boats,
on a shooting excursion up the back-water. Starting at
four in the evening, we changed rowers at Kiamcollum at
nine, P.M. ; at Trickana[)ully at half-past eleven; and at
TotapuUy at half-past one, A. M. At sun-rise we quitted
the widest part of the back-water, near Alepie, and enter-
ing by small inlets, through ranges of fields completely
flooded, steered up and down every point of the compass
till half-past noon ; when, making Adrampully, we landed
and proceeded in palanquins to Colonel Newall's bun-
galow, delightfully situated on the summit of a small hill,
surrounded by cultivation. Our servants arriving in com-
mon boats at four, P. M., we sallied out half an hour after
in search of game, beating the jungle over several small
ridges to the westward ; though the whole we killed was
only two spotted deer and two spur-fowls. The cover was
generally much too thick ; and though much game was
seen, we could not easily get at them. On the 6th, we set
forward very early on elephants, crossed several hills, and
beat a great deal of likely ground, with no greater success
than the day before. It had rained heavily over night, and
the jungle was of course very wet ; I, therefore, kej)t my
seat on an elephant, afraid to wet my feet ; the rest were

214 MILITARY [A.D.

not so careful, but met with little success ; and only one
spotted buck, three snipes, and a green pigeon, were
bagged altogether : though the Natives had their share, as
I have invariably found to be the case ; for whenever they
are entrusted with loaded arms, they always contrive to
get all the shots themselves. We got home to breakfast at
half-past eight. Having tried another direction in the
evening, we returned at sun-set with a wild hog, a porcu-
pine, and jungle cock : rain again.

The 7th was Sunday, and I could not but remark
the very great beauty of this fine cool spot. The hill on
which the bungalow stands is, however, not singular ; for
there are many similar in various directions, with rich cul-
tivation in the valleys, which connect them together. Im-
mediately under us, to the southward, is a fine tank, with
paddy ground running both east and west from it. The
village is nearly west from us, and contains a celebrated
Pagoda.

On the morning of the 8th, we went out on elephants
again, at the same hour, to the north-eastward; beat a
number of hills and dales covered with long grass and
jungle, and returned at half-past ten. This day I fired one
shot, and killed a porcupine ; Colonel Newall knocked
down a peacock ; Lethbridge killed a curlew, jungle-fowl,
imperial pigeon, and two spur-fowls ; and Robertson did
not get a single shot. We were all much fatigued
this morning, having started with a determination to
do wonders. I never saw more likely ground for all
kinds of game ; but it was generally very thick, and our
people did not understand beating. Several spotted deer

1824. J REMINISlliNCUS. 215

were seen, and Colonel Nevvall fired at one, but missed him.
This day Captain Gordon joined us from Allepic, and we
tried a fresh spot in the evening, where we went over some
very likely ground, but returned at sunset, with only a
spotted doe, a hog-deer, and jungle-cock. Tiie heavy
rains prevented our continuing any longer than the next
evening; when our poor friend, iMajor Robertson, wlio had
succeeded Captain Kand, in command of the 15th regi-
ment, getting wet through, in the Cochin liajah's large
boat with nie during the night, hiitl the foundation of a
disease, which shortly afterwards killed him. At this time
he was one of the healthiest looking men in India ; and
being ol" a robust make, with a countenance beaming with
intelligence and good nature, of the most abstemious
habits, and fond of exercise, he was the man I should have
selected from a thousand, as a likely candidate for longe-
vity. Poor fellow ! he lingered for a few months, and
breathed his last at the Nielgherrics, on the 24th of April,
1825, sincerely and deservedly regretted by all who knew
him.

TRE\'ANDERAM.
On a visit to this place I found considerable alterations
had taken place since 1819. The cantonment was ex-
tended and im{)roved, and a respectable Palace built for
her Highness the Ranee, in the fort, with the surrounding
rubbish somewhat cleared away. Living with my kind
friend, the Resident, and having an upper room in his
house, I had a fair opportunity of appreciating the climate,
which is certainly at least ten degrees cooler than Quilon,

216 MILITARY [A.D.

whilst the country all round is equally beautiful with that
of our warmer station. When we went to see the Ranee
we were escorted by a troop of well mounted cavalry, and
every thing seemed advancing in proportion ; the change
in her Ilighness's appearance alone being for the worse.
She is grown stout and coarse ; and it is astonishing how
soon old age creeps upon the Native females in this
country ; they reach m.aturity when Europeans are girls,
and are old women, generally speaking, from thirty-five to
forty. The Taumbratee, at whose marriage I was a spec-
tator, when a child, is now as large, and apparently as old,
as her mother was at that time. The elder Rajah, now
twelve, is small, but greatly improved in looks and man-
ners ; he is becoming graceful and dignified : and the
young one, now nine, has shot up amazingly, but is falling
off in looks : he, as usual, took possession of Colonel
Newall's lap, and retained his place nearly all the time
we were there.

Captain Lethbridge is fixed at Trevanderam, living in
an excellent house built by the Ranee ; he is, nominally,
Khellahdar, or Commandant of the fort, and, in reality*
the Agent and Representative of the Resident with the
Ranee, when the Resident is not at the capital. Captain
Gray, who succeeded Major M'Leod in command of the
Ranee's Naire brigade, has also a capital house, built by
her in the cantonment. From Trevanderam to Nagracoile,
a distance of forty-two miles, we now found a capital high
road; and near the latter place Colonel Newall had got a good
Bungalow, a short distance off the road, in which we put
up. The town is principally a long street, and two Mis-

18-24.] rkminisci:n('i;s. 217

sionaries are established in it, who have already built
capital houses, and also laid the foundation of a very lar[;e
Church, to be built l)y subscription; but if it be ever
finished, 1 cannot conceive how they propose to fill it in
such a neighbourhood. Were there a large population,
much might naturally be expected from time, and a con-
tinued bright example of Christianity in their own lives ;
but I had no opi)ortunity of ascertaining how matters
really stood, and the reports were not to be depended
u\)on. From Nagracoile we proceeded to Colonel Nevvall's
house.

CAPE COMORIN,
At tw elve miles. The road not so good as the former, but
no obstructions ; it passes through an old gateway in the
once famous southern lines, and the path from thence
w inds in sight of the old battlements all the rest of the
way, to a capital roomy house, now out of repair, on a
rising spot of land running into the sea, and within a
hundred yards of the ocean. This place is delightfully
situated for the enjoyments of India's greatest luxury, a
cool sea breeze ; and it connuands, in almost every direc-
tion, a most extensive view of blue ocean, without a single
sail to vary the scene. It is, indeed, the only spot on
terra Jirnui in the East, from w hich I have seen the sun
both rise and set over an expanse of water. A few fisher-
men's houses, some venerated temples, and a Dutch
Church, now form the celebrated town of Cape Comorin,
called by the natives Kunnia Comerah ; the shore of
which, forming a small bay near it, with bold rocks, and a

218 MILITARY [A.D.

remarkable smooth, sandy bottom, the particles of which
resemble garnets, make it a delightful bathing-place. The
country near it is dreadfully parched ; the hill known to
mariners as Cape Comorin, being many miles inland, and
though in a country almost deluged with rain every south-
west monsoon, this spot seldom experiences a drop from
one end of the year to the other ; a convincing proof that
hills attract the clouds, and sand repels them. Colonel
Nevvall has most humanely instigated the Dewaun to
form a number of large banks, in regular succession
from the mountains, to form tanks and retain a portion of
the rain as it descends, in this hitherto parched and un-
productive district. They are now hard at work com-
pleting them, at a considerable expense, of course, but
likely to be amply repaid by future cultivation. I heard an
old woman of one of the villages as we passed, call upon
Colonel Newall to send them water. The Arambooly
lines lie more to the eastward than the part we came
through, but we could see them, as well as the Hills of
Oodagherry, as we came along.

OODAGHERRY.
Returning to Oodagherry, which is nine miles from
Nao-racoile, I was surprised to find the interior of the fort
completely over-run with rank vegetation. Trees, bushes,
long grass, and weeds, everywhere hide the ruins of former
habitations ; and the present garrison is confined to eighty
Sepoys and their families, in a place three miles in circum-
ference. The large gun and mortar found in it in the
year 1809, had been removed, 1 know not how, when, or

1824.] REMINISCENCES. 219

where; and nothing remained but the carriage of the
former, lying in a shed amongst old timber. The inhabi-
tants all hve scattered about in the suburbs, a short dis-
tance from the ramparts. The roads, on examination by
day-light, have been much cut up by the late rains ; but
the country is a perfect garden, and particularly near this
place. The diversity of beautiful forest trees is uncom-
monly striking; amongst which, a species much resembling
the laburnum, grows to an enormous height.

TIUCIIOOR.
1 had frequently been at this place, of late years, but
never made any particular observations till this visit, in
company with Colonel Newall and the Reverend Marma-
duke Thompson. Indeed, having on former occasions,
been more engaged in the wild sports which abound in it's
vicinity, I had not time to write down such observations as
occurred ; I shall now, therefore, give a summary of the
whole, and as I had commenced with field sports, they
shall lead the way. The direction of Puttebcaud already
mentioned excepted, every other road or path leads to good
shooting ground, being a series of beautiful hills, covered
with trees and underwood, connected by highly cultivated
valleys. The back-water comes to a good town only, called
Arnautekerry, two and a half miles from the Residency,
from whencfe a capital high road leads to Trichoor. This
place is built more in the European style than any Native
town I have seen. The streets are broad, the houses regular,
of which five hundred are said to belong to Nuseranees,
whom I take to be Syrian Christians ; each being supposed

220 MILITARY [A.D.

to contain on an average ten souls, make five thousand
Protestants. There is also a very capital Roman Catholic
Church, but I do not know their number. It is a place of
considerable trade, and the finest timbers for building are
floated from thence down to Cochin ; though being a de-
pendency of Trichoor, it is seldom named at all. Embark-
ing at this place, there is an island in the back-water, two
or three miles down, of considerable extent and overgrown
with jungle, to which, when Hyder invaded the Cochin terri-
tories, the inhabitants of Trichoor carried their cattle, and
set them loose, in hopes of thereby saving them from the
Mysore plunderers : but the country being over-run with
his troops, and conquered and retained for some years, the
cattle consequently became wild and irreclaimable. Hogs
were I believe, introduced in the same manner ; conse-
quently, this is a famous place for wild bulls, hogs, &c., at
the present day. On it, I have on one occasion, brought
down a bull with each barrel, and was afterwards charged
by a whole drove while in the act of re-loading. They
came on most furiously, tossing their horns about and
snorting, but on my waving my gun in one hand and hat
in the other, accompanied by a loud yell, they turned off
as suddenly, and left me conqueror, with my two victims
at my feet. The back-water, and indeed all the valleys
here, abound in wild ducks, bald coots, water-hens, bit-
terns, and all kind of water birds. The bittern I have
never seen in any other part of the East, but the Malabar
coast ; and this reminds me of the pigeon royal and im-
perial pigeon, which are to be found on this coast only.
They are of an enormous size, some as large as fowls, and

1824.] RF.MINISCF.NOr.S, 221

very good eating : they make a very singular noise while
resting on the branches of the tallest trees in the forest,
and require a large load of shot to bring them down.

The town ofTriclioor is very large, and coiUains many
capital Native houses, with gardens, 5vc. ; the inhabitants
are generally Naires and Brahmins, and it is altogether
suj)erior to most places in India. I fancy it is nearly two
miles in length, having a Brahminy College, of great anti-
quity at a short distance on the Puttecaud side ; a large
Palace, surrounded by the works of an old fort ; and a
fortified Pagoda of considerable strength, esteemed a most
sacred edifice. The College is a large ill-looking range of
buildings, containing, it is said, Shanscrit books two
thousand years old, in tolerable preservation. The Library
is described as most valuable, though the Professors and
Students are by no means learned. So said my informer,
the Red Man, Shenkel Menoen, who is a respectable Naire
inhabitant, and a connection of the Rajah. He lives hard
by the said College, and is particularly fond of Europeans ;
is a tall, raw-boned man, and very fair, which has gained
him his appellation amongst Europeans. He talks tolerable
Hindoostanee, as indeed do all the Naires ; a convincing
]MOof of the late dominion of the jNIussulman usurpers of
Mysore, over this coast.

The Rajah's Palace is very large and well built, and has
an excellent garden within the fort, which is now in ruins ;
but the gate and draw-bridge are entire, and by them is the
only road to the Palace. On one of the bastions, stands a
teak flag-staff" thirty years old, with a banian tree of twenty
years' growth, half way up it, the roots of which are

222

MH.ITARY [A.D.

dangling in the air. This I considered such a curiosity as
to make a sketcli of it on the spot.

I pretend not to account for such a phenomenon, but the
fact is as I have stated it ; and the staff to which the tree
is attached is so sohd, that I could hardly make any im-
pression on it with a knife. The Pagoda, which is one of
the strongest and handsomest buildings of the kind, I have
ever met with, is very extensive, and surrounded by a high
and substantial brick wall, forming a square fortification.

18'J4.] K t:MiNiscL;NCES. 223

There are gates at the four cardhial points, with h^ffy
towers, three stories liigh, over eacli of them, covered by
small flat tiles, peculiar to this country; these would con-
tain a company of sharp-shooters each, to deal destruction
amongst any enemy attempting an escalade at the angles ;
and without guns, it could not well be taken by any
number of men. Vet this place, when containing all the
wealth of the surrounding country, of which it was the
capital, surrendered to the IMysoreans, without attemjjting
any resistance. The Residency, which is an unconnnonly
neat and well-finished bungalow, in a large green com-
pound, near the gate of the fort, and close to the Puttecaud
road, is a cool and really delightful habitation. When it
was building for Captain Lethbridge's accommodation, a
number of snakes making their appearance amongst some
old ruins in the compound, the Captain offered a reward
of a Tellicherry Fanam, equal to about five pence ster-
ling, for every one the people should kill and bring to
his butler. The result of which was, so general a search
all over the surrounding country, that he was speedily
compelled to withdraw the bribe altogether, as they had
taken such a wide range for it's attainment.

224 MILITARY [A.D.

CHAPTER VJ.

Coti/tun — Manaracaud — Trcvamtcram — BJinrtpoor — R<mtc to Bcl-
gaum — Kanmdgce — Bi/lcboongnl — Kotuhangce — Sir Thomas Miuiro
— Ycnklemiirrahdee — Colapoor.

Colonel Newall proceeding to Madras by land, and
the Reverend Mr. Thompson following him, I returned to
Baulghauty, to accompany Mr. Dalmahoy to the Syrian
College, in Travancore.

COTYAM.
On the 5th of December, therefore, we set out at sun-
set in the Greyhound pinnace, and reached the bridge
at Cotyam, about fifty miles distant from Cochin, by day-
light; where we found the tide so rapid, being affected
with the heavy rain amongst the hills to the eastward, that
we had much labour and difficulty to stem it. At six
o'clock the next morning, however, we safely arrived op-
posite a large building by the water side, when a servant
came down and conducted us to a landing-place, where

1824.]

REMINISCENCES.

225

we ascended a bank, and reached the resiih^ice {>[' ll
Reverend Mr. Fenn.

MR. FENN'S HOUSE,

Being situated upon a clear rising ground, commanding a
view of the river and surrounding country, for many miles in
every direction ; the mind of man could not have conceived
a happier spot, on which to erect a dwelling-place. Even
in a country, almost every mile of which presents a beautiful
landscape to the eye, the panorama from this house sur-
passes all that I have witnessed ; and, as the owner has
relinquished it for the future service of the Institution,
I have subjoined the copy of a rough sketch of it, made in
my Journal at the time of this visit.

I do not know the origin of the College at Cotyam, or
when it was founded ; but it is one of the most interesting

VOL. 11. Q

22G

MILITARY

[A.D.

Institutions in the East. The -Syrian Church, to which it
belongs, has been estabhshed ever since the persecution and
dispersion of the Christians at Antioch, from whence they
emigrated; and it is an extraordinary fact, that in this
Heathen country, where the basest superstition prevails,
and where the Natives are taught nothing but vice and ob-
scenity, the most tolerant spirit has always prevailed. So
much so, that even Jews, original Christians, and Roman
Cathohcs, have ahke found a kind reception, and a secure
asylum. The number of Syrians in Travancore is vari-
ously stated • since they are not confined to one spot, but
scattered in communities, all over the country. Though I
believe that the greatest number is assembled at and
about Cotyam, which is the only public seminary for the
education of their Priests. Having, therefore, paid more
than one visit to this sable University, I shall now en-
deavour to collect into one view the result of all my
observations.

THE COLLEGE AT COTYAM,

/'» Traiajirore.

1824.] REMINlSCF.NCf'S. 227

This College, erected on a fertile spot, close to the
southern bank of a beautiful rivulet, which, taking it's
rise in the mountains to the eastward, runs into the
broadest part of the back-water, about eight or ten miles
below, and nearly opposite the entrance of the Alepie
canal, is an extensive square building of some antiquity,
with little in the exterior appearance to recommend it.
Like many Eastern caravansera,: it has a wide. court in
the centre, and rises on all sides to two stories of excellent
but rude masonry. I am not certain as to the number of
apartments, but they are very numerous, in which students
of different languages, and different classes and degrees,
are assembled for education: these, I think, occupy the
whole of the first story. On the second story is a Library,
containing two thousand two hundred and fifty elegantly
bound volumes, on Theology, Astronomy, Mathematics,
History, and, in short, every other science, in the English,
French, Latin, Greek, Syriac, Hebrew, Malyalum, Persian,
Arabic, and German languages • as well as a repository of
scientific instruments, containing globes, orreries, telescopes,
an electrifying machine, air-pump, magic-lanthorn, micro-
scopes, SvC, all of which are of the best quality. TJie
Professors, or Gentlemen of the Mission, have rooms upon
this floor, in which to examine the students, &c. ; and tlie
present establishment consists of three English gentlemen,
all, I believe, ordained, Messrs. Fenn, Bailie, and Baker;
with a very clever young man named Ryan, as a Greek
and Latin tutor, and various Native assistants. In the
same compound the English gentlemen have lately built
a small Chapel for their own use, of the simplest and most
^ 2

228 MILITARY [A.D.

modest construction, but perfectly adapted to the purposes
of so small a congregation, consisting generally of their
own families, and a very few of the students, who are pro-
ficients in English. At a short distance, and separated
by a rude wooden bridge across a branch of the river,
stands the Syrian Cathedral and the Metropolitan's house;
both well-built, and neatly finished buildings ; the house
being in imitation of those generally built by European
gentlemen in the East.

The residences of the English gentlemen are all on a
rising ground, to the Eastward, at a considerable distance
from the College. Mr. Fenn's being the only up-stair one ;
and these gentlemen divide the duties of their superin-
tendence, each having a distinct department under his
control. Mr. Baihe had the management of the Malyalum,
or Native printing, and the types were actually made in
his own house. This language being the Native, is, of
course, principally required for the great body of the
Syrians ; and I not only saw the whole process of casting,
cleaning, and fitting the types, performed by a silversmith,
armourer, and carpenter, but, on proceeding to the print-
ing office, had several copies of the Lord's Prayer struck
off" for me, and placed in my Journal. Mr. Fenn had the
direction of the scientific and classic parts, and I was pre-
sent at some very interesting examinations of student-
candidates for the priesthood ; for to that office alone does
the whole process lead. On one occasion, with Mr. Dal-
mahoy, we first visited the Library, and the Observatory,
which occupied some hours ; and then descending, passed
through the different rooms occupied by students, in

1825.] REMINISCENCLS. 231

different classes of Latin, &c. We next ascended to Mr. ,
Fenn's room, where we heard the examination of seven
native sliolars, apparently between the ages of fourteen
and eighteen. The first book was Virgil, which they
were then learning, and with which they were quite aa
fait: a passage in Csesar's Commentaries, which they liad
never read before was then given to them, which they
immediately rendered into good Englisli ; and, in short,
evinced a surprising proficiency in the grauunars of both
languages, equally foreign to them, l^^en my companion,
who was young enough to be my son, and, of course, more
conversant in these matters, was astonished at their display.
I have forgotten the rest of this examination, as we were
pressed for time, and did not return home, till dinner had
been: long waiting for us.

> At another visit, when there with my own family, we
were present at the examination of the four elder boys, who
displayed uncommon acuteness, particularly in reading
and translating the Scriptures ; and after they had finished,
Mr. Fenn desired me to question them from any part of
the Bible ; when taking the New Testament, I desired
them to answer me in as few words as possible, " which
was the most remarkable passage, in the life of Saint
Paul?" One said" when he was in the Island of Melita,
and a snake fastened upon his hand;" another inentioned
the scene in the prison, when the gaoler was converted;
but Marcus, who is a very superior young man, said
" when he was going to Damascus, he saw a light, and
heard a voice from Heaven." This was exactly what I
had fixed upon, namely, his conversion ; though expressed

232 .MII-ITARY [A.D.

in a more prolix manner ; but all their answers proved a
knowledge of the Bible, or at least of the Acts. We one
evening visited the Archbishop, who received us with
much respect and kindness ; and shewed us his house and
grounds. He was very fond of appearing among Euro-
peans in his full costume, but was unwell when I saw him,
and died shortly afterwards : he had always been on the
most friendly terms with the gentlemen of the College,
who seem generally esteemed by the Natives ; as every
pious Christian always will be, by the bulk of mankind.

MANARACAUD.
I one morning accompanied Mr. Fenn in his boat, rowed
by eight Syrians about eight miles up the river, which
expands considerably above Cotyam, and landed at a
place called Manaracaud ; where a number of Priests and
other soi disant Christians, met us, with much respect,
and conducted us up to a Syrian Church, nearly sur-
rounded by jungle. I am sorry to say, that I was much
disappointed on entering this Christian edifice, to find a
great resemblance to the Roman Catholic Churches in the
interior, particularly in the altar and decorations ; having
an image of the Virgin and Infant Saviour in a niche of
the wall, with folding doors immediately behind it, with
various other emblems of semi-idolatry. I was also rather
surprised to see, on the outside of the Church, over a
small door, in bas-relief, a crucifix, with two cocks fighting
over it, as if contending for the prize. The people said it
had nothing to do with the Church or their religion, being
simply a device of the mason's who built it. We em-

1825.] RKMlNISCENCliS. '23:]

barked again, and dropped down to a landing-place, near
a small Hindoo Temple, which led to a romantic hill almost
covered with jungle; on the summit of which we found a
small plain, and enjoyed a rich and diversified prospect,
extending from the mountains in the east, to Alepie and
the sea in the west : the grass beinor vvet, confined our
perambulations to a small foot-path, but even from thence
the view was very distinct.

While residing at Mr. Fenn's delightful mansion, I had
the pleasure of becoming acquainted with the rest of his
amiable community, and heard each of the gentlemen
preach in turn in the chapel, and at each other's houses.
Every succeeding day increased my estimation of this most
useful Institution; whilst amusements in my own way
were not wanting, there being abundance of game in the
neighbourhood, and wild hogs even came to court destruc-
tion in Mr. Fenn's garden, where they committed sundry
trespasses.

KALERAII.
I pass from this place to the island of Kalerah, or
Munro Island, on the back-water, between Cotyam and
Quilon, a large and fertile tract, bestowed as a grant to the
College, by the Travancore Government, while Colonel
Munro was Resident. It is a delightful island, and, will I
trust, prove most productive. The gentlemen of the mission
have built a small bungalow on the eastern extremity, and
a number of Syrians are employed in trying to turn it to
account ; though it is at present full of wild hogs, porcu-
pines, 6cc., and has abundance of beautiful forest trees all

234 . MILITARY [A.D:

over it, though but little usefulcultivation. Having men-
tioned Colonel Munro again, as a former Resident, I must
add, that he appears to me to have been the kindest and most
liberal friend the Christians ever had in Travancore.. I do
not pretend to enter into the policy of his measures, but,
under him, they held situations of trust and respectability,
which gave them some consequence amongst the Natives
of the country, and certainly the cause of religion was
thus greatly forwarded. On this subject much difference
of opinion has always prevailed in the East; and in almost
any other country than Travancore, I should hesitate to
advocate it's advancement, since, in most other parts of
India, the converts are from the basest of the Native
population; but in the kingdoms of Travancore and Cochin,
the Christians have been born and bred such, and it is,
moreover, a remarkably tolerant government. I must not
quit this delicate subject, without declaring myself a friend
to the advancement of the only true religion ; and my
firm belief, that the ice is already broken in the East,
and the true mode, under the blessing of a gracious Pro-
vidence, already adopted, in the diffusion of knowledge
amongst the rising generation, by the establishment of
schools : I trust, therefore, our countrymen will lend the aid
of their example, which ought to go hand in hand with
precept, to lure the ignorant and misguided natives into
the path which leads to eternal salvation. Since my de-
parture from Quilon, I have understood that Mr. Fenn and
family have left Cotyam,and returned to Europe; and that
Mr. Doring, a young man of abilities and liberal education,
now supplies his place in the College.

1825,] RKMlNISCKNCh.S. 235

TREX'ANDEllAM.
Being on a tour of inspection during tlic month of May
and stopping to pass a few days at the Residency, with
Colonel Newall, I had an opportunity of witnessing the
studies of the young Rajahs in private, and forming an
estimate of their progressive acquirements and abilities.
On the morning of the 16th, at ten o'clock, I accompanied
the Colonel in his gig, without attendants, to the fort, where
we were immediately conducted to a room in the Palace,
and found them, with their father, their sister, her hus-
band, and their school-master, ready to receive us. The
elder boy, now thirteen, seemed greatly improved in mind,
though rather diminutive in person. He read a chapter of
Malcolm's Central India ; the Governor-general's Persian
Letter, on the capture of Rangoon ; a passage in Sanscrit ;
another in Malyalum, and seemed equally clever at each.
He then took up a book of Mathematics, and selecting the
forthy-seventh proposition of Euclid, sketched the figure
on a country slate ; but what astonished me most, was his
telling us in English ; that Geometry was derived from the
Sanscrit, which was " jaiv meter," to measure the earth,
and that many of our mathematical terms, were also de-
rived from the same source, such as Hexagon, Heptagon,
Octagon, Decagon, Duodecagon, &c. His remarks were
generally apposite, but their language inelegant, and un-
grammatical. This is much to be lamented, because,
with so many studies on hand, he can never read enougli
of English, to correct his idiom; and the master, a very
clever Taujore Brahmin, could nut speak it much better

236 MILITARY [A.D.

than himself. His Persian was pure and elegant ; but of
the other languages, I am too ignorant to offer an opinion.
This promising boy is now, I conclude. Sovereign of the
finest country in India ; for he was to succeed to the
Musnud the moment he had attained his sixteenth year.
The younger brother gave us various specimens of his ac-
quirements ; somewhat inferior, of course, to those of the
rising sun of the country, but still very fair.

The Princess, at whose wedding I was present in 1819,
was grown both fat and coarse. Their father, a very hand-
some man, about the middle age, is their joint guardian,
with the Ranee and Resident; but has no other power or
authority whatever. The Princess's husband looks very
much like her younger brother : indeed, apart, 1 should
not know the one from the other. At noon we took our
leave, much gratified with this domestic scene.

I have not made any mention of the present Dewaun,
an uncommonly handsome, fair, and elegant Carnatic
Brahmin. His name is Venket Row ; and he is one of the
most intelligent, well-educated men, I have met with in
India, and writes an excellent English letter. As far as
I could learn, he was most attentive and unremitting in
his exertions for the improvement of the country, and the
good of the state. Such a man, to educate the young
Princes, would have been " worth his weight in gold."

On the night of the 4th of October, this year, I per-
ceived a comet, the nearest I had ever seen ; which conti-
nued uncommonly distinct till the 12th of December, when
it disappeared.

238

MILITARY

[A.D.

PLAN OF LORD LAKE'S UNSUCCESSFUL ATTACK ON THE
FORT OF BIIURTPOOR, A.U. 1804.

182().] RKMINISCRNCHS. 239

BIIURTPOOri.

On the 14th of February, 1826, wc received the au-
thentic accounts of the fall of l^hurtpoor, in the \i\)\wr
provinces of Bengal. This j)hice had been the rallying
point of disaffection for many years, and was continually
held up by the Natives, as a fort which we could not take.
The eyes of all India were tlierefore turned on this siege ;
and I make no doubt, thousands were prepared to throw otf
our yoke, in the event of a second failure. The Burmese
war being also raging at the same time, the whole Euro-
pean force which could be collected for this arduous ser-
vice, did not exceed one fourth of the storming party
under Lord Lake in the year 1804, who never once ob-
tained a footing on any of the breaches. The glorious re-
sult of this conflict was, therefore, the more honourable to
the Commander-in-chief, and , the army which accom-
plished such a conquest ; and as no plan has ever been
given to the public, I am induced to copy one, received
from my nephew, Lieutenant Augustus Abbott, of the
Bengal artillery, who commanded a mortar battery, during
the siege.

This plan, with the oflicial accounts of the siege and
storm, will give all the particulars, excepting one, upon
which nearly the whole depended ,• viz. the conduct of the
Commander. At that time, I was, in common with every
soldier in India, under his authority; that link is now
broken, by my return to England, and I have no personal
acquaintance with his Lordship. I cannot, therefore, be
suspected of any sinister luotive, in endeavouring to do
justice to the character of a hero, whose modesty, while

240 MILITARY [A.D.

he has done ample justice to the merits of all who served
under him, on that memorable occasion, would not permit
the smallest introduction of himself, to appear in his des-
patches. I shall add only, that my information was col-
lected from private letters, confirmed by the oral testimony
of an independent Native, who was on the spot at the
time, and whom I afterwards met in the Mahrattah
country.

From the moment that Lord Combermere arrived in the
camp before Bhurtpoor, or rather which surrounded that
place, he was constantly in motion ; visiting every part of
a most extensive encampment, and superintending every
operation from the commencement to it's final close. Not
content with which, on the day of the assault, he actually
headed one of the storming parties himself, and had an
officer killed on each side of him on the breach. Sucli
conduct in a commander, on ordinary occasions, would
be deservedly censured as unnecessary and fool-hardy ex-
posure. Here, the character of our army, and safety of our
East Indian possessions, perhaps even our very existence,
depended on the success of the moment ; and the presence
of the Commander-in-chief almost supplied the absence of
two or three thousand Europeans. From the time of Lord
Lake's failure against this place, it had never ceased to be
thrown in our teeth by the Natives, in every part of the
East; and many a man, in conversing about our successes,
has silenced me in a moment, by saying " All this may be
very true, but can you take Bhurtpoor?" Even after it
was taken, no Native would believe it was captured by
storm ; and to the last hour of my residence in India, they

J Hr«l

liirlifl J'lir/;,! Jln.ilicii /'rnlc/in/ fi
/ai,i/icrji':j irrt ZuqIi Ji" J)"

Mrntch pmctii'uhlc

JSrriu^t iifut'h tl'fla neirr /imri/rtt/'t

,:„A fl.,/,r.:,- 7.;o y:''r7;;n :i,r ii:..,

Morlui-e '*J/* )'" r'-ffn t/ir fitter-
I.Kirilil .V- /.»»# Itrriirhmn /iiflm^i
> .Urrl.ir JUitlrrlcf
•■' rliiiiily.,r.t I lUmm

182(J,] KKMINISCHNCKS. 241

persisted in asserting that it was bought, luit connucrcd.
The successful result also served to iiifiniiilate the Biinnese,
as well as to conhrni tlie wavering fidelity of several Native
courts. That it was a place of unconnnon strength, no
one can deny ; though, to me, it is really unaccountable,
because it does not appear to have had any advantage of
situation: still the labour undergone in the siege, and the
prodigious batteries which were employed to breach the
walls, in some places even unsuccessfully, prove it to have
been something completely out of the common wav, and
it's capture and destruction I consider, as the key-stone to
the arch, on which our security in the East is founded.

On the 6th of April we received the distressing intelli-
gence of the death of Bishop Reginald Heber, at Trichi-
nopoly, when on his route to Quilon. It had pleased the
Lord to take him suddenly to himself; and if we can
credit general report, never was mortal man better prepared
for that awful summons. He really appears to have been
one of the most perfect characters that ever reached the
shores of 'India; and in a country where so few respect
the service of their Maker, all that I ever heard uttered
against this good man, was, that he was not dignified
enough, but too kind to his inferiors. That is, in plain
English, that he was following the steps of his blessed
Master. The cause of religion in the East never, in my
estimation, suffered such a blow, as in the untimely death
of this truly pious and estimable divine. But the ways
of Providence are inscrutable to man, and the Lord can
make good arise out of seeming evil.

On the 20th of July, having the 0[)tion from Sir Thomas
VOL. n. K

242 MILITARY [A)D.

Munro of the command of the Nagpoor Subsidiary force,
or of the field force in the Dooab, I chose the latter, being
in a healthy climate, and near the sea coast ; though the
allowances are not so good as those of Nagpoor, but still
better, by three hundred rupees per month, than Quilon.

On the 31st of July I received the heart-rending
account of the death of my much esteemed friend. Lieu-
tenant-colonel Henry Hercules Pepper, at Madras, imme-
diately on his return from the Burmese war; where he had
distinguished himself in the command of a detached force,
which struck the last blow of the campaign. I had known
him intimately from a boy ; he had been under my com-
mand for years ; we had been on the most desperate services
together, and he had twice saved my life, once in action ;
in short, he had been to me in the light of a beloved son,
and his attachment to me and mine, in an intimacy of
twenty-six years, knew no bounds. Possessed of great
strength and activity, both of body and mind, and de-
voted to his profession, he was ever the foremost in battle,
as he was the first on parade. Abstemious and frugal in
his own personal expenses, he was alike capable of under-
going any bodily fatigue, and of relieving the wants or
distresses of others. His bounty was dispensed to all who
required it, and even pressed on those who little deserved
such kindness, when sickness or misfortune rendered them
fit objects of his benevolence. He died as he had lived,
a Christian and a soldier ; and even in the pangs of death,
remembered his oldest friend.

My appointment to command the Dooab field force
passed Council on the 1st of August, and on the Uth of

1826.] lU'MlNISCMNCKS. O43

that month we left Quilon, in a boat of Colonel Newalfs ;
who, being at Balghatty at this time, we !>pent two days
with him en pasaant, and parted with him for ever, in this
world, on the evening of the 13th, going by water to Chow
Ghaut. The south-west monsoon still raging, it was
fortunate for us to be able to get so easily over the first
hundred and fifty miles, which we accomplished by the
evening of the 14th. As this removal was in every respect
to better my situation, it may be supposed I quitted the
Travancore country with pleasure. I had arrived there in
very delicate health, and continued to suffer from the ex-
treme heat, particularly during the night, to the very last
day of my residence in that delightful country. I had
also suffered, in the pecuniary way, by the loss of five
horses by disease, in the short space of two years and a
half, to counterbalance the cheapness of living in a retired
situation, where almost all the necessaries of life are pro-
portionably reasonable. I was going to a climate in eveiy
respect more congenial to my constitution, and to a
command more suitable to an active mind ; but I was
also parting, perhaps for ever, from individuals of my
own family, deservedly dear to my iieart ; and leaving a
friend, evidently on the decline, in whose society I had
passed many happy days, and whose kind and delicate
conduct, in the high situation wliicli lie filled, had en-
hanced the value of the respectable command I was relin-
quishing. Proceeding in palanquins, with posted bearers,
we arrived at Calicut on the 16th ; at Cannanore on the
17th ; and at Mangalore on the 20th, where we rested for
a week, as guests of Mr. John Habington, in a most

244 MILITARY [A.D.

delightful mansion, about three miles from the town ; and,
as all above this place was new to me, I shall give extracts
of the rest of the journey to Belgaum.

" August 26th and 27th, we travelled sixty miles along
the sea coast to Cundapoor ; having set out at half-past
five, P. M., and crossed the river before dark: my route
being as follows : —

" Soorutkul. — Ten miles, at eight, P. M., crossed a river
dose to it.

" Moolkee. — Eight miles, at half-past ten, P. M., crossed
another river.

" Caump. — Ten miles, at half-past one, A. M. ; crossed
a river at two, P. M. ; another at half-past three, A. M. .

" Odepee. — Sixteen miles, at five, A.M., crossed a large
river at six, A. M.

" Bremasweer. — Eight miles, at half-past seven ; crossed
a river at a quarter to eight, A. M.

" Condapoor. — Eight miles, at half-past ten, A. M. ; the
rain being very heavy, we stopped at a bungalow, delight-
fully situated on the south bank of a large and beautiful
river. Breakfasted in haste, and set forward again in
jungars at noon. It took exactly an hour to cross the
river.

" August 28th, we reached Coomtah, sixty miles along
the sea coast: the intermediate objects being
. " Kermonjasweer. — Ten miles, at half-past three, P. M.

" Byendoor. — Eight miles, at six, P. M. ; ascended a
mountain, and from the summit beheld a beautiful cascade,
of many hundred feet in height, in the range of ghauts to
the right. Crossed a river by a ford, at half-past four,

1826.J ri:minisgkn(;ks. 245

P. M. ; another at five ; another by a Ijiidne, at a
quarter past five; another at seven; another by a ford,
at half-past seven; another at eight, and another by a
bridge, at half-past nine.

" Butcul. — Ten miles, at ten, P. M., and crossed a river
at eleven.

" Moordaishvvaur. — Eight miles, at half- past three, A. M.

" Munkee. — Six miles, at six, A.M.

" Oonoor. — Ten miles, at eight, A. M., and crossed a
large river innnediately ; but though I could not stop to
examine the mouldering ruins of a place once famous in
Eastern history, I could not help looking with much
interest as we passed along; and' the precious remains
stand sufficiently prominent, to point out a fort once un-
commonly strong, both by nature and art. It towers over
the river and adjacent country, without a bastion or ram-
part standing ; and is really a most interesting spot.
Crossed a river at ten, A. M.

Coomtah. — Eight miles: there is a very broad river
about two miles further on, but v\ e could not get even that
far, by the wretches who brought us from Oonoor. The
country here is beautiful ; there are good bungalows at the
different stations, and I could not but draw a contrast
between the country and it's inhabitants, by no means
favourable to the latter. We had been exposed to wet by
night, and the extremes of heat by day, without food,
and little rest, in order to get on to the end of a tedious
journey ; and the extreme beauty of the scenery would
have amply atoned for all these jtrivations, had we not had
to contend with evils worse than these, — I was very nearly

246 MILITARY [A.D.

putting a large D before the word, — in the bearers of this
part of Canara.

" Of all the stubborn, incorrigible, and unfeeling brutes
I have ever met with, in a life of no few adventures, the
Canarese bearers stand foremost ; and I suspect even Job
himself, had he travelled on this coast in the monsoon,
would have found full exercise for his celebrated virtue.
Though wanting employment, for they are all idle at this
season, every set paid in full before hand, and invariably
getting, on an average, from two to four rupees as a
douceur for each palanquin, at the end of the stage, still
we found them at first quarrelling for the honour, or rather
profit of the trip ; actually knocking one another down
while under the poles ; and when once persuaded to move,
separating to a distance on the road, and squabbling and
abusing each other the whole way. Here all hands for-
sook us at the most difficult crisis. Refusing to go on
beyond the river, on which we have to embark, and
about eight miles inland to the next stage, they would have
had to carry us two miles only to the boats, and then, on
landing, to take the palanquins on shore ; returning them-
selves, free of expense, in the boats already hired for us.
After an hour's altercation, in which I was most ably
and willingly assisted by the Native servants of the Col-
lector, and Magistrate, whom the regulations prohibited
from using any kind of coercion, we persuaded some new
sets to carry us to the river, under a promise of going on
the rest of the stage ; but they had no sooner got us that
far, than they refused to go an inch further, and we were
compelled to leave them behind.

1826.] REMINISCENCKS. 247

" August 28th. — To Oopenputtun, tea miles. I'.iu-
barkino- in two large jungars at half-past twelve, we
proceeded punting up a broad river for some miles, till it
became gradually small, and bordereil by deep jungle the
last mile. At half-past three we reached this place, a
miserable hamlet in the jungle, where, however, we found
IVesh sets of bearers, ^c, ready, but liaving already lost
so much of the day, it was determined, that in considera-
tion of the state of the weather and the roads, we should
remain till the next morning. I omitted to mention (hat I
lost a few minutes yesterday, by stopping to kill two large
snakes, who were erecting their crests in a field bv the
road side : I loaded my gun, and killed both with one
shot ; tlie one being eight, and the other seven feet long.

•'August 29th. — We advanced twelve miles to Devi-
munnie Ghaut. After a wet, but not stormy night, we
assembled our motley crew, and started with flambeaux,
fire-sticks, &c., at a quarter past four, A. M. I have seldom
seen palanquins carried through a worse road, the whole
way being a continual ascent and descent of small stony
hills, covered with jungle as far as the foot of the ghauts,
about four miles ; after which it was one continued ascent,
in some places very steep, for eight miles further ; which I
had the pleasure of trudging the whole way, till ten, A.M.,
when we arrived at the small bazar and hamlets of Devi-
munnie. Here we rested a quarter of an hour, to allow
me to change my clothes. We had crossed some beautiful
limpid streams, over which I could observe near the road
a rude brido-e of bamboos or reeds, suspended here and
there for travellers, when rendered unlbrdable by heavy

248 MII.ITARY [A.D.

rain. The scenery, as in most ghauts, or mountain passes
in the East, is grand beyond description. We set out
again at half-past ten, and had a most tedious and fatiguing
scramble of about twelve miles, over small woody hills
and stony valleys, to Munjigoony, where we arrived at half-
past three, P. M, There is a Moosaufer khannah, or place
for travellers, here, attached to a swampy house, in which
we rested; with a beautiful stone goontah and rural bridge,
in the vicinity of a neat little village, delightfully situated
in one of the first open spots I have seen in Soondah : but
it is raining, and all the ground is wet. Here our new sets
must have rest for two hours; I dread the evening and
comino- nio-ht, for it seems we have to wade and scramble
over the same kind of road for fifteen miles further, with
jaded beasts of burthen ; and if the last ten miles took
them five hours, when fresh, what will the next fifteen
take them in a rainy night? But, ' forward,' was a
word I early adopted for my motto, long before the forma-
tion of any light corps on this establishment.

'* At six, P.M., set out again, fifteen miles to Sirsey ;
the road, as before, leading through jungle, and much cut
up by the rains ; indeed, it may still be styled a ghaut
nearly the whole way, and our bearers came on at a snail's
pace only. By dint of continual scolding and coaxing,
however, for they set us down several times in the jungle,
and declared one and all that further they would not budge,
we did reach this large village at four, A. M. ; when we
got into a snug bungalow, and received the kindest and
readiest assistance from all the Collector's people, who
furnished us at this unseasonable hour with hot water, hot

IH26.] RKMINISCENCKS. 249

rice, and several kinds of curries ; and alter tryin^ ull
their rhetorical powers with our tiretl and slothful hearers,
have carried them to the cutchery to feed, and <^ive each a
dram, to induce them to carrv us on at day-li^^ht, assisted
by sundry coolies of the village. To-night it lias been
perfectly fair, for a wonder, or we should never have
reached this place.

" August 30th. — We went twenty-four miles to Ilangul.
After an hour's figliting and coaxing alternately, we got
fairly oft" at lialf past seven o'clock, A. M. ; and creeping
along at the rate of twelve furlongs an hour, had actually
accomplished twelve miles by half past three, P. M., when
to our no small delight, we met three sets of Madras
bearers, with two troopers, sent on by our old friend Baber,
now Principal Collector and Political Agent in the Southern
Mahrattah country, and got into his camp at this place by
sunset. Here, after accomplishing a march of five hundred
and eighty miles, in the height of the monsoon, which,
under such circumstances and with such materials,
nobody above or below the Ghauts had believed possible,
I assumed the command of all the troo])s, in the extensive
country under his controul, and we became as it were as-
sociated, for the third time, in our oflicial duties.

" September 1st, we got sixty miles further to Darvvar.
Setting out, after an early breakfast with our friend, at
half past two, P. M., and losing our way in the dark, with
very heavy rain, we remained all night in swamjjs and paddy
fields ; only reaching Hoobly at ten, A. M., where not
finding any posted bearers, and being able to muster but
tvventy out of forty-eight who were with us at midnight, I

250 MILITARY [A.D.

abandoned my palanquin, and, mounting one of the trooper's
horses, whicli had luckily accompanied us the whole way,
reached Darwar at half past one ; my family arriving at
three at Mr. Baber's house, delightfully situated on a
rising ground, commanding a view of the fort and sur-
rounding country. The fort of Darwar was originally very
strong, having two solid ramparts all round, with a most
intricate gateway; but is now considerably damaged by long
exposure to the weather without any periodical repairs : it
is garrisoned by one Native corps only, and is no longer
considered a government command.

*' September 3rd.' — Leaving my family in our friend's
hospitable mansion, I proceeded fifty-two miles to Bel-
gaum, the head quarters of the Dooab field force ; and, in
spite of heavy rain, and as heavy roads, reached the fort
at half past eleven, where I also assumed the command of
the station. Here, not being able to get a suitable house
to rent, I was obliged to purchase one ; and our servants
and baggage arrived on the 14th of November, having
come by sea from Cochin to Vingorlah."
BELGAUM.

The Fort of Belgaum, which was captured by Sir Thomas
Munro in 1817, is an irregular stone fortification, re-
sembling an egg in shape, about a mile and a half in cir-
cumference ; with very high ramparts, and only one gate-
way. The curtains are out of all proportion long, and the
bastions consequently small and insufiicient ; it has a very
wide and deep ditch, but not having undergone any re-
gular repairs for three or four years, is beginning to totter,
and many breaches arc forming, from the heavy rains

PLAi^r OT I'lIE i'OilT OS- B'lLi'LGAVM

B. «/■,•-„•/, .;,7/,.

\i.S..l,i.,ry r.lU

F. i,\-n.-r,il Slor,:s-
G.t-irfill*'ry Jiiirriirk-.f
)A.i:>-n,r.i) //.-fipit.,/
l./.,..X- Ur«pll.,l

V.j'1.1 M.'...,,!,-

>J..S/»,/// ,i„.,t.l Horn,,

O.lrt'

:„./ fi,.

References.

1 (oUuitl IMs/,\, ll,'U.H.
liC Al.^hrla Dltin
:\l).;-l.-r XInrry, /)?

•J.ta/it" Oiniiinttham
.:./.' Hall.,,-,- hm
/■>'. /?«/ l>/'/!ri-
/. Mninr H.irrlin-:',
H.Arrnr/: ,sy,;::.-
/>.l,i/>/" IS„l;i,,,lrn

//•I ;,/>/" /.iini/x-

II Mtillnll Sfrrv.-

II. I.' r.:,r.s r:„„m.:r

-I" n,.i,.„.n

ll>. tiift" Ihillfi-r,/

IZDniirr Mnr.iiil.i,-

]fi.t7-n,lii,trr Hos,

In.Dr rmpfy- />'■

V\R>-v-' AK Intlnr

•J. Hmrfy

'yi.Rlimi-tl ills.-, ""'■ ' 'hiiti-h

'l^.fnnihifirr .T/rmf.t

If J.! Xrn-nuin

Zi.f^-ailiirirr

il'.Srrii' Hrirn

'l7.Snh ./.*»' Snt.iffn

rutJi^hcJ b,'

18'26.] REMINISCENCES. 'Jf,!

washing the earth away, and the stones falhiii; from tlicir
own weight. It is situated in a lono- and highly cultivated
valley, not far from tiie range of Ghauts which separate tiie
Mahrattah country from the Koekun; and the south-west
monsoon, peculiar to the Malabar coast of which the Koe-
kun is a continuation, prevailing there with great force, the
rain falls in torrents from the month of May till October, and
sometimes lasts till the first week in November ; filling the
ditch and every water-course in the country, and rendering
the roads nearly impassable. At this time the comnmni-
cation from the cantonment, most irregularly built on
a rising ground, beyond the town or Pettah to the west-
ward, was sometimes impeded, and always more or less
inconvenient, the only road passing through the town to
the gate at the northern extremity of the fort. To remedy
this inconvenience, I obtained permission from Govern-
ment to make a causeway over the ditch on the western
face, where a large breach had prepared the materials, and
the pioneers of the force completed it, without incurring
any public expense. This opened a direct road behind tiie
Pettali, to the cantonment.

The town of Belgaum is extensive, populous, and
wealthy; the skirts of it being barely out of the reach of
cannon from the western face of the fort, and the canton-
ment about the same distance on the other side. The
garrison, in peaceable times, consisted of one European
regiment, two Native corps, and a company of artillery ;
the pioneers not being stationary. At this time the whole
force, including every branch, amounted to seven thousand
men, scattered over a country nearly the size of Great

252 MILITARY [A.D.

Britain : that is from Hurryhur to Sholapoor, and although
held in readiness to move at a moment's notice, none were
under canvass. The general staff of the force resident in
the fort, have built their own houses, which having excel-
lent gardens attached to them, appear altogether more like
a number of country seats, than officers' quarters. Indeed,
from the quantity of trees in every direction, independent
of those belonging to individuals, the interior of the fort
has much more the semblance of a large garden, than a
military station ; and is, without exception, the pleasantest
and healthiest station I have ever known in India. *

The command of this force, however, was by no means a
sinecure ; for having troops belonging to both Presidencies
in it, I had to correspond with the Bombay Government
and Commander-in-chief, as well as those of Madras, and
with the Political Agent also ; and the troops being sepa-
rated in brigades and single corps, it became necessary to
move in different directions, to superintend their discipUne.

SHAHPOOR.
About two miles from the fort, to the south-westward,
stands the town of Shahpoor, a very large and populous
place, belonging to Chintaniany Row ; in which there is a
mint for the rupees current in this part of the country.
There is also a weekly market held in this town, to which
all our people regularly resorted for ordinary supplies,
although not within our jurisdiction.

* The expenses of the Dooab force amounted, while on full batta, to
one hundred and eighty thousand rupees per month ; or twenty-one
lacks per annum: and when our batta was afterwards struck off,
Government thus saved six lacks per annum.

182G.] RKMINISCFNCF.S. 253

KALUi:)r.nEE.
Eighty miles east-north-east is the second station of
the Dooab, being tlie head (|uarters of the hght division of
the Dooab force, composed of a regiment of light cavalry,
a troop of horse artillery, and a regiment of light infantry.
Situated on the southern bank of the Gutpurba river, and
only a short distance from the Nizam's frontier, this place
was considered by our Government, as a kind of key to
our possessions in the southern JVIahrattah country, and
consequently after the field allowances were withdrawn
from the rest of the force, this brigade was always fully
equipped, and retained it's full batta. On my first visit to
this cantonment, it rained so incessantly that I was de-
tained ten days as a guest of Major Henry, who at that
time commanded the brigade ; and as the remarks I then
made appear to me apphcable in every other season, I
shall extract them without further preface.
. '* What I have seen of this place leads me to form a
most unfavourable opinion of it, since it appears the most
uncomfortable, ill-chosen, ill-looking, and abominable mili-
tary station in all India. A set of miserable, reddish mud
walls, in ruins, assail the eye in every direction ; the grass,
where there is any, is of a dirty yellow tinge; and no
where is the dulness of the scene relieved, but by three
or four milk hedges, round barren compounds. Doctor
Johnson's satire on my dear native land is most fully
realised in this cantonment ; and, indeed, all round it, for
many miles. Even the wretched fort and village from
which it takes it's name, add nothing to the landscape

254 MILITARY [A.D.

without; and within, they beggar description, in filth,
poverty, and barrenness of interest. After seven days'
rain, and forty hours' deluge, there is still no appearance
of renewed vegetation ; since the wet has served only to
make the scene more dismal and dreary, whilst the damage
done to the hovels of all ranks, is incalculable. The map
shews a beautiful river, meandering in a serpentine direc-
tion round half of the spot, to add to the fertility of an
Indian paradise. And as a stranger would most naturally
demand, where is the said river ? the reply must be, * Look
down to the north-eastward, and you will see a black
streak in the distant cotton ground ; that is the left bank
of the Gutpurba river, which winds along not far from the
horse artillery and cavalry lines : and if you are not satis-
fied with that, you will find a muddy nullah, running right
through the cantonment, and separating the cavalry from
the infantry, in which you will one hour find nothing but
dirt, and the next might chance to get drowned.'

** This was the first impression on my mind ; to which I
must add, that all the horses of two corps were watered in
the muddy stream, passing through heavy black soil,
knee-deep to the river side ; and that, in going to and fro
between the lines in the cantonment, we had great diffi-
culty in riding our horses, from the extreme deceitfulness
of the ground.

" In such a soil had artillery, cavalry, and infantry, to
perform their evolutions, and to be reviewed annually ;
and what was still more unaccountable, there was no
bridge or even good ferry over a river at all times deep, to
keep up the communication between this station and

182G.] RKMINISCENCIiS. 255

Sholapoor. In all other parts of India, the proximity of a
river naturally increases the verdure and beauty of every
spot ; but the course of the Gutpurba is mostly marked
by barren cotton soil on both banks, and whilst the vicini-
ties of Belgaum and Darwar are remarkable for the most
luxuriant landscapes, the greater part of the country from
Kaludghee to Sholapoor is of the same arid and unproduc-
tive description.

SirOLAPOOK,
" Two hundred miles east-north-east of Belgaum. I
have already, in the year 1804, described this fort, then
in all it's glory, and crowded with troops. I found it little
injured by time, since even the breach made by Sir Thomas
Munro, in 1817, had been repaired ; but being no longer in-
habited, it now serves merely as a place of safety for the
treasure of the Sub-collector, and a few stores, under a
small Sepoy guard. It is, however, still worth looking at
as a model of eastern architecture ; and in case of emer-
gency, would be a place of secure refuge for the families of
the troops. The brigade, which is cantoned about two
miles from the fort, is composed of one regiment of Native
cavalry, and one regiment of Native infantry, with a small
party of artillery, and a brigade of guns. The cantonment
is as irregular and ill contrived as those of Belgaum and
Kaludghee; the soil is not good, and there is a general
want of water, although the fort and Pettah walls, are
washed by a beautiful lake. But the greatest drawback
to this station is it's extreme distance from the Carnatic,
and indeed from every European station, and the expense
of every article of living, with the great scarcity of fuel ;

256 MILITARY [A.D.

there being no jungle within twenty or thirty miles.
Yet this ill-fated place was the first which suffered by the
loss of our full batta. The heat is as intense here as in the
Carnatic, and there is no one advantage to counterbalance
the local defects." — Since I left India, this station has, how-
ever, been transferred to Bombay, and is to be garrisoned
in future from that Presidency ; when the distance from
home will not be so great, and the troops will not have their
allowances reduced, after having been there any time.

After a short tour of inspection, I returned to Belgaum,
and on the 3rd of February received intelligence from
Mr. Baber, which induced me to go out in the evening, to
meet him at a place thirty miles east, called

BYLEHOONGUL.
Leaving the fort at eleven o'clock, P. M., I arrived at
the Political Agent's encampment at eight, A.M. The
first part of the road was apparently very stony and un-
even, though the latter was passable. Here I got informa-
tion from my friend of a very extensive plot, supposed to
have been discovered at Sattarah, between the Rajahs of
Colapoor and Sattarah, and several other Mahrattah chiefs,
to disturb our quiet in these parts; his Highness of
Colapoor being famous for this kind of treachery. Having
occasion to communicate with Belgaum immediately, one
of Mr. Baber's troopers carried a letter over the same
ground I had come post in the night, and actually re-
turned with an answer in eight hours, having rode a dis-
tance of sixty miles, in that short time. These men were
private followers of the political agent, and the most

l'S27.j RMMINISCIvNCFS, 'Jo7

hardy and useful escorts, or occasional couriers, I ever
knew. They were common Mahrattah Sowaurs, and from
the kind attention of my friend, 1 have had them several
times along witli me traveliin*^, botii by regular stages and
going post, and never found them hesitate or refuse to
ride any distance in my company.

Tlie situation selected by Mr. Baber for his present en-
campment being a rising ground, close to a small lake,
which having thick planted hedges, was capable of being
defended by a small body of men, we both considered it so
eligible as a military post, that two companies were ordered
from the Chittore district, to succeed us on it; it being
on the frontier, near a district of Colapoor, and being
also a place where state prisoners resided. The fort of
Bylehoongul is situated in low ground, commanded by the
hill on which we were encamped ; but, in the absence of
guns, it might be called strong, as it was a very compact
and well-built ghurry, containing a good Palace, and
every comfort for the Deshanees, or widows of the Chief
of Kittore, who had rebelled, and caused the death of Mr.
Thackary, the predecessor of Mr. Baber, in the southern
JVIahrattah country. These Princesses were kindly treated,
though not permitted to quit this place, or hold any corres-
pondence with their former subjects; and it was, therefore,
natural to suppose they would gladly avail themselves of
the proximity of a force of the Colapoor Rajah, already in
motion, to get loose from their present restraint. There
was an excellent fruit garden, watered by two good tanks,
a short distance from the fort, also belonging to the said
Deshanees ; whom we visited, and found them young and

\OL. II. s

258 MILITARY [A.D.

handsome women, but apparently unaccustomed to Euro-
peans. Returning via Darwar to Belgaum, it was consi-
dered by Mr. Baber, that we should be prepared to take
the field; and the Bombay European regiment, which
had been relieved by His Majesty's 41st regiment, was
consequently kept there to be employed on the approach-
ing service.

KOTABAUGEE
On the 5th of March, our preparations being completed,
the troops, leaving Belgaum, Kaludghee, and Sholapoor
nearly simultaneously, proceeded to form a junction at
Kotabaugee, on the Gutpurbah, about thirty-two miles
north of Belgaum; where, on the 15th, having crossed
all the intervening rivers, the camp was formed in two
large brigades. Our force assembled upon a rising ground
of great extent, and tolerably cool; but the soil being
veiy hard and rocky, it was with difficulty we could
pitch tents to stand on it. This was the hottest season of
the year, and the thermometer generally above one hundred
degrees all day ; yet, our camp was healthy. On the 30th
of March we were suddenly visited by a severe thunder
storm, which overturned at least half the tents of the
line, and destroyed many. Two men and one horse were
killed by the lightning, and much damage was done to
private property. The Rajah of Colapoor, though at the
head of twelve thousand men, a short distance from Byle-
hoongul, retreated immediately by forced marches to his
capital ; and we had the pleasure of marching back again
to our original positions. The head-quarters of the artil-

1H27.] KKMINISCKNCKS. 'J.i9

leiy, and European regiments reached Belgauni on iIk;
23rd of i^pril; and a heavy storm of thunder, hghtning,
and rain on the 24th, was succeeded by a sudden shower
of the largest liail I ever beheld ; so thick, that it literally
covered the ground, and looked like snow till collected ;
when I measured several pieces the full size of a hunting
watch. A Pioneer was killed by the lightning in camp
three days before, in a similar storm, which did not ex-
tend to Belgaum.

On the 2yth of April my friend Baber, being appointed
First Judge of the Provincial, or Circuit Court of Malabar,
was succeeded by Mr. J. Nisbet, as Collector and Poli-
tical Agent, whom I had the pleasure to meet at Darwar,
when taking leave of my old friend.

On the morning of the IGth of May a very extraordinary
occurrence took place in the cantonment at Belgaum,
when a bear made his appearance at day-light, and seizing
a Sepoy unawares, gave him a friendly hug, from which
he was lucky in escaping. He then got hold of a poor
woman, whose head he injured, and tore away the entire
calf of one leg, which was amputated, and she died a few
hours afterwards. The brute was next seen scampering off"
towards the hills some miles distant, but could not be
traced further, though there is no jungle or cover for wild
beasts within seven miles, in anv direction.

SIR THOMAS MUNKO.

On the 11th of July we received the heart-rending

tidings of the death of our noble, kind, and much-beloved

Governor, by cholera, on the 6th instnnt, whilst on his

s 2

260 MILITARY [A.D.

tour, near Gooty. His character, as it was well-known
and duly appreciated, is not difficult to be drawn, for it
requires no embellishment. Equally estimable both in
public and private life, with the most transcendent abili-
ties, the clearest head, and the kindest heart, he was es-
teemed, respected, and beloved, wherever he went. I have
never known his equal, and do not expect ever to meet his
like again. In him the Company lost their best servant, the
great their brightest example, the natives their kindest
benefactor, the Madras army their truest friend, and I have
lost a steady patron, for whose untimely fate my heart
bleeds. On the 12th of July, we received further parti-
culars of our heavy misfortune, by which it appeared that
Sir Thomas was on his route from Gooty to Adoni, when
he was seized with that dreadful scourge, the cholera, at
seven, P. M., and was a corpse the same night. Several
gentlemen of his suite were also attacked, and a Civilian
had died of the same disease but a few days before.
When taken ill himself he would not permit his staff to
attend him, and so anxious was he for their safety, that he
insisted on their retiring. His remains were carried into
Gooty for interment, on the 7th, Of the forty-eight years
he had served the Company, I had known this great and
good man for thirty-seven, and no private individual ever
created for himself such a name ; in short, far and near, in
every part of the Madras territory. Sir Thomas Munro
was known and revered. Uniting in a most uncommon
degree the Statesman with the Soldier, he was ever the
same in the cutchery and the field ; cool, discerning, and
collected. It is seldom that in our estimation of public

f'm

1H27.] RKiMiNlSCKNlKS. 'J(j;j

characters, we can entirely divest ourselves of private
feelings; and mine, I acknowledge, to be deeply interested
in this humble tribute to departed worth. No sooner did
this good man assume the Government, than I felt assured
of justice and advancement, in proportion to my services ;
the event proved my expectation to be correct, and secured
my eternal gratitude ; but my estimate of his character was
previously formed, and never altered.

On the 7th of September, the whole force was asiain j)ut
in motion and marched from different points to form a
junction at Kotabaugee, the ford on the Gutpurbah, at
which we had assembled in March, the Colapoor Rajah
having collected an army of twenty thousand men and
committed some aggressions on his neighbours, which
called for our immediate interference. In the absence of
regular ferries, and having no pontoons with the force, a
number of basket boats were made and covered with raw
hides on which we contrived to cross all the rivers ; and,
having previously formed a junction of the brigades from
Belgaum, Kaludghee, and Sholapoor, on the 24th a party
was ordered, consisting of a company of His Majesty's
41st regiment, a company of the Bombay European regi-
ment, a troop of horse artillery, two squadrons of Native
cavalry, and two hundred men from each of the Native
corps, under the command of Major Henry, to proceed to
a place about twelve miles to the south-westward, called

YENKLKMrRUADKK.
In which a number of Colapoor plunderers were s-.iid to be
stationed. It was reported to be a well-built ghurry, but

264 MILITARY [A.D.

on our arrival we found it far exceeded our expectations,
lieing particularly anxious to prevent hostilities, I accom-
panied the detachment along with Messrs. Elliott and Freese
of the Civil service, and while negociations were going
on, made the accompanying sketch, from our position,
on a rising ground about one thousand yards from the fort.
The Pettali, which is very extensive and contains many
excellent houses, was in the foreground ; and had we been
forced to attack the place, many thousand innocent in-
habitants would have been exposed, not only to plunder,
but to inevitable destruction. This consideration made me
prolong the time of our deliberations ; and after some hesi-
tation and a shew of resistance, the garrison scampered out
with their arms on the opposite side, and we obtained quiet
possession of one of the strongest places of the kind I ever
beheld. The large bastion alone was capable of contain-
ing a garrison of a couple of hundred men, whence they
could have driven any enemy out of every other part of the
interior. Returning to camp, this detachment was ex-
posed to excessive heavy rain, and could not all reach their
own lines till the next evening.

On the 10th of October a strong re-inforcement joined
us from Poonah, and the whole force then encamped within
six miles of Colapoor, was formed into five brigades,
amounting to six thousand two hundred men ; besides a
body of five hundred excellent Native horse, in the pay of
our Government, with a train of six iron eighteen-pounders,
four twelve-pounders, twenty six-pounders, two ten-inch
mortars, five eight-inch mortars, and four five-and-a-half-
inch liowitzers ; in addition to which, about two thousand

1827.]

RKMIN ISGKNCKS.

266

GROUND PLAN OF YENKLKM URR ADEE.

A. The large Tower Ikistion, coiimuimliug all tlio rest (if the works.
1{. The second largest Rastion.
(.". The Khelladar's house.
I). A Tank of tine water.

E. The Ditch, which is dry and deep; and tlirougli uhich the passage

F. leads into the Fort through two gateways.

1827.] RtMINlSCENCKS. 267

more in the difierent garrisons might have been culled out
if necessary, laifortunately for me, however, there was
no real enemy to oppose us ; and the Rajah, disappointed
in receiving- succours from his neighbours, if they ever did
intend to join him, sent out a ctirte blanche on the 13th of
October, at the very moment we had collected our train
with great labour, and were about to move to the attack
of his capital ; upon which we marched the next morning,
and encamped on a rising ground, to the southward of
the fort.

COJ^POOK,
Is situated about sixty miles to the northward of Belgaunj.
This place stands in low ground near the south bank of the
Paunchgungah, having a deep nullah to the eastward ; a
smaller one, with a considerable lake to the westward, and
also another small lake to the southward, so that it is very
nearly surrounded by water. The town is large, straggling,
and ill-constructed all round the fort, which has a broad
ditch, but is by no means strong. The interior buildings,
which are mostly of stone and brick, with flat roofs, in nar-
row, difficult winding roads, put me much in mind of Buenos
Ayres ; and I should apprehend much more danger to as-
sailants in these passages, than from the works of the fort.
The Rajah's Palace was in the centre, an extensive but ill-
looking ruin, surrounded by filth of every description; and
never were the consequences of extreme dissipation more
evident than in the appearance of this Prince's habitation,
and the surrounding objects. Sovereign of a fine fertile
country, possessed of handsome revenues, and bcinu also

268 MILITARY [A.D.

one of the few remaining legitimate Princes of the Mah-
rattah empire, it might have been expected, that the pride
of birth would have instigated a Une of conduct, which,
however viciously incUned, would not have disgraced his
lineage. But Chuttrapetty, Maharajah of Colapoor, was
not only a plunderer, but a debauchee of the lowest descrip-
tion ; and if we may credit one tenth part of the reports
industriously circulated against him, was in the habit of
sallying out at night, when under the influence of liquor,
and committing all kinds of depredations on his own
wretched subjects. A young man of weak intellects, fall-
ing early into the hands of designing and unprincipled
villains, he had lavished his own wealth upon them, and
then impoverished his subjects, by every kind of extortion,
to supply his necessities. His aggression on his neigh-
bours was nothing out of the common way in the Mah-
rattah territories ; but this was all we had a right to notice ;
and his raising a large force and continuing these maraud-
mg practices, forced us to take the field in the monsoon,
when it was supposed we could not venture out on any
provocation. Once convinced that we were in earnest, his
heart failed him, and he immediately dismissed his motley
army, and commenced negociating ; whilst we were obliged
to remain encamped in rank grass, at the most inclement
season of the year ; the consequence of which was too soon
apparent, for the cholera breaking out all over our camp,
we were obliged to separate into small parties, and spread
all over the surrounding country to such an extent, as to
render my situation any thing but enviable.

On the 16th of October a treaty was concluded between

1827.] RRMINISOKNCF.S. 209

Mr. Nisbet, who had encamped near our head-quarters,
and the Rajah ; when the fort of Colapoor was so far
taken possession of, that I ordered parties to take charge
of the different gates, and a Hindoo guard was placed in
the compound of a Bralirain, whom the Rajah had agreed to
receive as his Prime Minister. Detachments being sent at
the same time to occupy several places of strength in his
country. I had hitherto purposely avoided entering the
place, although I had made myself acquainted with all the
ajiproaches, and every part of the exterior ; but on the
morning of the 17th, I visited the fort along with the first
parties, to see that every thing was done with as much
delicacy as circumstances would permit ; and Lieutenant-
colonel Truman, whose corps was ordered for this duty,
was afterwards fixed in the connnand of the brigade, which
w as left in the neighbourhood to enforce the fulfilment of
all the articles of the treaty, or capitulation, as it might
almost have been styled. It was now, for the first time,
that I had an opportunity of personally witnessing the
degraded state of this Prince, in the capital of an inde-
pendent kingdom. Riding on horseback by the wretched
lanes which run in every direction through the fort, we had
the utmost difficulty to find clean footing for our horses ;
and I never recollect to have seen a town so extremely filthy
in my life. I could not have conceived any thing equal
to it ; and even having seen it, I am incapable of de-
scribing it.

After the guards had been placed over six gates of the
fort. Lieutenant-colonel Truman encamped on a rising
ground, about a mile off, on the southern bank of the

270

MILITARY

[A.D.

Paunchgungah ; and, in the course of the day, it was
ascertained that there were still upwards of three thousand
Arabs in the place, and some thousands of other troops.
I had certainly seen crowds of armed men in every direc-
tion, particularly inside of some strong compounds, the
doors of which chanced to be open, as we passed them,
and the Palace was full of them. The Rajah sent out to
invite us in ; but, out of delicacy to Mr.Nisbet, I declined,
till I should be assured that every article of the treaty was
likely to be fulfilled ; and the very next day matters ap-
peared so suspicious, that all our guards were withdrawn,
and preparations made for enforcing compliance, by a
bombardment, when one thousand tive hundred Arabs
came out, and received from Mr. Nisbet their arrears of
pay, &c. ; and many thousands were said to have taken
their departure from the fort at the same time. Remaining
in most irksome suspense for several days, with the cholera
still raging in all parts of our extended encampments, on
the 24th of October I ventured to visit one of our new
posts, at a distance of fifteen miles to the northward.

270 MILITARY [A.D.

Paunchgungah ; and, in the course of the day, it was
ascertained that there were still upwards of three thousand
Arabs in the place, and some thousands of other troops.
I had certainly seen crowds of armed men in every direc-
tion, particularly inside of some strong compounds, the
doors of which chanced to be open, as we passed them,
and the Palace was full of them. The Rajah sent out to
invite us in ; but, out of delicacy to Mr. Nisbet, I declined,
till I should be assured that every article of the treaty was
likely to be fulfilled ; and the very next day matters ap-
peared so suspicious, that all our guards were withdrawn,
and preparations made for enforcing compliance, by a
bombardment, when one thousand five hundred Arabs
came out, and received from Mr. Nisbet their arrears of
pay, &c. ; and many thousands were said to have taken
their departure from the fort at the same time. Remaining
in most irksome suspense for several days, with the cholera
still raging in all parts of our extended encampments, on
the 24th of October I ventured to visit one of our new
posts, at a distance of fifteen miles to the northward.

1827.1 HKMINISCKNCES. 271

CHAPTER VII.

Forts of Piitiallughur and Poicejig/iur — Kaganooli) — Xepaunec — Bel-
gauiii — Death of Lieutenant Colonel Place — Kittoor — Route of
Inspection in t/ic Ma/irattali country — Hulktc — Kohnn Sliotapoor.

PUNALLAGHUR AND POWENGIIUR.
Leaving our camp at three o'clock, A.M., we crossed the
Paunchgungah, a deep muddy river, with very high and
steep banks, at a quarter to five, and rode over very false
cotton ground for about two miles ; after which the road
was good the whole way, and we passed through a fine
cultivated country. At about half-past six we commenced
ascending a rugged pathway to the top of a ridge of
mountains, about six hundred feet high, on the table
summit of which rise the hill forts of Punallaghur and
Powenghur. We passed round the base of the latter,
which is the smallest and most insignificant, about seven ;
delighted with the picturesque scenery, and pure, elastic,
bracing air. Upon this table-land there are several good
villages, surrounded with fine trees, almost immediately
under the fire of these forts ; and the road winds com-
pletely within musquet range, first of Powenghur, and
afterwards of both. I have made a plan and sketches of
these extraordinary specimens of native architecture, for

272 * MIF.ITARY [A.D.

no description would be sufficient to pourtray them cor-
rectly. After rounding the first hill, two roads meet, one
turning up to Powenghur, or the Windy Mountain ; and the
other leading on to Punallaghur, or the Watery Mountain;
which latter we chose, and entered a beautiful stone gate-
way at half-past eight, our horses following. Here, to our
surprise, we found excellent houses, with neat little gar-
dens, and numerous clean and very civil inhabitants; a
party of whom met us at the gate, and conducted us by
an excellent road to a large stone choultry, in the corner
of a little town, fitted up with cloths and tent walls, pur-
posely for our reception, where we took up our abode for
a couple of days, attended by camel-hircarrahs,* and a
few cavalry ; all of whom found ready shelter in our neigh-
bourhood. The climate being delightfully temperate, we
were enabled to go all over both hills, explore every curio-
sity, and make sketches ; and I have seldom derived more
gratification than in viewing such a combination of the
beauties of nature and art, as are displayed in these two
fortresses. The persevering industry which could finish
such massive fortifications, embracing the summit of a
basaltic mountain, at least four miles in circumference, is
really astonishing ; and of all the hill-forts I have seen in
India, Punallaghur is the most complete, both by nature
and art. With an European garrison, I should pronounce
it perfectly inaccessible in all this immense extent. The
natural scarp being generally a perpendicular, of from
twenty to sixty feet high all round, and surmounted by a

* Guides mounted on camels.

K
O
'^

ft,
o

p:3

»
H
U)
O
x/i

1827.] RT'MiNiscFNcnis. 27.J

wall of solid masonry, from ten to twenty, and even thirty
feet high, following the original shape of the hill, and hav-
ing good bastions on all the salient angles. There are
three gateways to it, all equally strong, and not to be
attempted in any way.

Powenghur, which is smaller, and not so strong, or of so
much consequence, tliough still too near a neighbour to bo
despised, may be about a mile in circumference, and has
two gateways equally inaccessible. The description of one
nearly serves for the other, in regard both to situation and
works ; but the latter, from it's size, is more exposed
to the injury of bombardment; and I also discovered
one spot in it, where, from the paucity of natural ob-
stacles, I think it might, perhaps, be successfully assailed,
the stone scarp being only about fifteen feet high at
a salient angle, near the flattest and highest part of
the table land, on which the rock is situated. The
possession of this place, however, although it might
serve to annoy the garrison of the other, would by no
means lead to it's surrender, or capture, by breach or as-
sault, as a natural result; since the nearest part of Punalla,
allowing it to be within breaching distance of the western
gate of Powenghur, has a perpendicular scarp, of at least
sixty feet along the whole surface. The small fort has
good water, but not in any abundance; there is little shel-
ter for a competent garrison, and the ground is, generally
speaking, more stony and sterile. Punalla on the contrary,
has several beautiful tanks within it's walls, a fertile soil,
abundance of cover, and every advantage which could be
desired, or looked for, on a plain ; and there is ample room
T 2

•276

MILITARY

[A.D.

for barracks and houses for several thousand Europeans.
Independent of the many valuable buildings already to be
found in this delightful place, many corps might also be
encamped on the western side, which is high and level,
and no where exposed to annoyance from without. These
forts are connected only by the roads I have mentioned,
meeting on a plain in the neck of land that separates them,
and which is two or three hundred feet above the summit
of the range forming their base ; but as all descriptions are,
in my estimation, imperfect, without plans or sketches, I
shall here give a general idea, or bird's-eye view of the
elevation of the whole.

They are about long breaching distance asunder, and
there is another basaltic mountain of similar features in
the same range, connected, as it were, by a narrow stony
ridge, on the opposite side of Punalla, and nearly equi-
distant from it's western face. This hill, though fully as
high, does not present a better point of attack, because

276 MILITARY [A.D.

_,r

'^ /

'^''"^^A

" '^1.

1' \^}

PL/m DIP' Ptf-j^ALLA & PO'VyjSi^ff;!!-!;

18-27.] ui'.MiMsciiNCKs. 277

the natural scarp on that side of Funalla is excessively
high, and the only works exposed to shot from that
quarter, are not only very strong-, but also situated on a
narrow projecting slij), which is conuiianded from behind,
and miglit also be easily cut oft'altogetlier. I have before
remarked, that in this species of rockv eminences almost
all the salient angles, or projecting parts, are the most per-
pendicular and inaccessible, and therefore least assailable ;
independent of artificial works, of which there are abund-
ance all over Punalla.

After a strict examination, I have marked places in
both forts, which to me appeared most practicable for
breaching and assault ; and even there, I must acknowledge
I should rely for success more upon the non-etHcient re-
sistance of the garrison, than the eligibility of the under-
taking, particularly in that of Punalla, to which all the
rest of my remarks are confined.

In the centre of Punalla, there is an old Poligar citadel,
with high walls, bushes, and underwood of every descrip-
tion, growing luxuriantly wild ; among which I remarked
mango, sago, jack, guavah, coffee, and callacca trees; with
pepper and other vines ; and we also found three enormous
stone granaries, capitally built, with arched roofs, capable
of containing provisions for a large army : but being all
abandoned and overgrown with noxious weeds, they did
not appear to have been used for many years. We also saw
another stone edifice, resembling an old magazine ; and
the last building was a gaol, full of miserable convicts
confined to this ungenial spot, which was literally choked
up with rank \egetation and decayed leave.-, the receptacle

278 MILITARY [A.D.

of" snakes and other venomous reptiles ; so impervious to
the solar rays, that I felt an uncomfortable chill even
while exploring my way through it's intricate recesses at
mid-day. The Colapoor guards, unwilling to participate
in an atmosphere so dank and dangerous, generally with-
drew at sunset, and after shutting the only gate, left the
prisoners to their own resources for the night.

There are some handsome Mosques, Eedgahs, Pagodas,
and other edifices in different parts of the fort, with many
valuable trees, some cultivation, and a general appearance
of comfort and fertility throughout. The Rajah's Palace is
large, but somewhat out of repair. The tanks are full of
fish and turtles, and there are also some beautiful springs
of pure water, one of which at the south gate, is the source
of a river in the plain below. On our first arrival, instead
of finding a garrison hesitating in what manner to receive
us, or indeed any traces of hostile preparations, we were
met by a numerous, intelhgent, and well-dressed popula-
tion, who welcomed us with apparent delight ; paid us
marked attention while we remained, and voluntarily ac-
companied us in all our rambles, to assist and point out
every thing worthy of notice. From them I learned, that
the cholera, so fatal below, had never reached the peaceful
inhabitants of these upper regions ; which remarkable
circumstance recalled to my mind a similar proof of salu-
brity in the hill of Asseerghur in the Deckan, after it's
capture from Scindiah in 1817. Colonel Augustus An-
drews, an old friend of mine, who obtained that command
as a reward for distinguished gallantry during the previous
service, having the Madras European regiment to form a

^^^'¥^

1827.] rkiMINis(;i;n(!Ks, 27!)

part of the garrison, inCornied me afterwards at Vullore,
that wliile this cruel scourge was raging in the lower fort,
he had caused a man just attacked with cholera to be car-
ried up the hill, when, finding that he instantly recovered,
this mode was successfully adopted in future, and, under
Providence, became the means of saving many valuable
lives.

The climate here is delightful, the days cool, and the
nights temperate, without those extremes to which we
were exposed below; and such was the elasticity of the air,
that, although an invalid of long standing, I could run
about all day, without inconvenience ; climbing as easily
as descending the steepest })laces. This induced me to re-
turn and pay a longer visit with my lamented friend, Lieu-
tenant-colonel Robert Place, of His Majesty's 41st regi-
ment, then commanding a brigade of light infantry, who
was suffering under a severe attack of liver complaint, and
to whom I had hoped it would prove serviceable. The
effect, for the moment, appeared most favourable ; but we
were suddenly forced down again by the calls of duty, and
on the 14th of November quitted it for tlie last time, and
returned to camp, where, while waiting orders for our
future movements from the Government of Bombay, the
cholera still raging, rendered my situation truly irksome.
Notwithstanding the precautions I had taken of separating
corps, and moving them to every elevated spot for five
miles round Colapoor, we hud already buried two hundred
men and officers, and had treble that number ill.

Of all the unpleasant predicaments ia which fortune
can place a soldier, the most trying is certainly that of

280 MILITARY [A.D.

the command of an army, condemned to inactivity, in an
unhealthy and unsettled country, with such a disease as
the cholera in every part of the camp. It may, therefore,
be easily imagined, that I looked forward with more than
common anxiety to the return of Mr. Nisbet, who had gone
in the interim to Belgaum, to settle some revenue business.
At length, having received the requisite despatches, on the
12th of December Mr. N. arrived with the ratification of
the treaty, by which the Rajah had ceded a large tract of
country, and promised to re-imburse us for the expenses
of our armament ; and also an approval by Government
of our measures, for keeping possession of the hill-forts,
and leaving a brigade at Colapoor, until every article
should be fulfilled. It was then determined that we should
pay the Rajah our first complimentary visit; for which
purpose, as many officers as were so disposed, assembled
at Mr. Nisbet's tent, whence we proceeded to the fort
at two o'clock, P. M., and were received by His Highness
in a long narrow saloon of his uncouth and dirty palace,
amongst a concourse of natives. We were then all forced to
squat down on our hams on a large carpet, where an hour,
was to me most tediously prolonged by the disgusting
monotony of a set of dancing girls. Having been accus-
tomed for many years to hear of the depredations and
predatory excursions of the Colapoor Rajahs, although the
one who reigned when I was formerly in the Mahrattah
country, had long since paid the debt of nature, I must
own I was much disappointed on the first appearance of
Chuttrapetty, the present personage, who had, by his tur-
bulent conduct, twice called us into the field, to behold

1827.] ri:miniscencl:s, 281

a short, insignificant mortal, much below the common
stature, whose features displayed as much deficiency of
intellect as of manly beauty. He regarded us with a look
of sottish insensibility, and seemed under that sort of con-
straint, which a little school-boy would exhibit on a sudden
visit from the overseers of the parish. From the character
which he bore in the world, I had not expected any great
display of manners or refinement, but I certainly did look
for an appearance of shrewdness, mixed with some daring,
and a degree of confidence, which enables a man to meet
the gaze of strangers without shrinking or bashfulness.
Such was not the case, however, upon this occasion ; and I
do not remember to have ever seen a Native of high rank
and respectable birth, so totally devoid of the outward
semblance of gentility. He sat for an hour, with a vacant,
unmeaning countenance, scarcely replying to what was
said to him ; and we took our leave, heartily tired of both
our uncouth position, and of our entertainment. His
Highness afterwards sent to entreat Mr. Nisbet to receive
a visit from him the next day ; and it was determined that
we should treat him with distinction, a compliment we were
well aware he had much at heart. I volunteered to turn out
the whole line for the occasion ; and he had the pleasure
of passing through a street of horse artillery, cavalry, and
infantry, which really astonished him and his thousands
of attendants, to a tent in our head-quarter line, where we
assisted him off his howdah,* and led him to Mr. Nisbet.

* Ilowdahs are carriages fixed on tlic back of an elephant; and
are of various shapes and sizes, for tlic aeconinioda'ion of one or more
persons of consequence.

282 MILITARY [A.D.

On this occasion he was superbly dressed, and really
evinced more mind than at our first interview ; but still
there was a complete deficiency of the tout ensemble of the
Eastern Nobleman, both in his manners and appearance.

This was the last act of our Colapoor campaign, and on
the 14th we broke up ; the Poonah corps returning, via
Sattarah; theKaludghee brigade marching withMr.Nisbet
to the ceded territory ; and the Belgaura corps, with my
own head-quarters, via Nepaunee, to Belgaum. A brigade
composed of the 12th regiment of Bombay Native infantry,
and the 49th regiment of Madras Native infanty, remain-
ing, to be cantoned outside of the town.

Our first march was to Kaganooly ; the road to which
was very bad, and it was fortunate that the park
and heavy stores were sent by the road we had ad-
vanced ; for even with the light equipment of corps, one
tumbril broke down, and a large elephant had his thigh
broken in this march of sixteen miles ; and this too, after
the fair season had set in, and the rivers had all become
fordable. The direction was nearly due south, being the
nearest route to Belgaum ; and we passed close to the fort
of Kagul, distant eight miles from Colapoor. It is a
square, with round bastions at the angles, and a ditch, not
yet fully excavated, in the solid rock, on which they were
at work as we passed. The fort of Kaganooly is extensive,
with a fosse-bray and good ditch, but does not appear very
strong ; we passed and encamped on a rising ground two
miles beyond it. Our baggage was very late in coming up ;
and every thing served to convince me, that an army could
not march this road.

1827.] REMINISCENCES. 283

Our next advance was eight miles, to the vicinity of
Nepaunee; one of the most interesting places I liave visited
in the East. Having but a short distance to go, we did not
move till tive o'clock, A. INI., and reached our ground about
a mile and a half from the fort, at half past seven ; when
the Rajah, a fine-looking manly old fellow, met us on
horseback, with a crowd of horse and pike-men, accom-
panied by about two dozen of chiefs, all of whom lie intro-
duced, and who looked really respectable. We then dis-
mounted and sat on a large carpet which his peo|)le had
brought for the occasion ; and we instantly recognized each
other, as old brother soldiers, under the Great Captain in
1803, of which, till this meeting, I was not aware ; such great
changes having taken place in the Mahrattah states.
My old acquaintance, Appadesai, proved to be the Rajah of
Nepaunee, and Sir Lushkur, or Commander-in-chief, of the
Mahrattah Empire. We parted in a few minutes, and he
returned to the fort. Comparing the Maharajah of Cola-
poor and his ill-looking retinue, with this poorer Prince,
but distinguished soldier, and his fine comrades and sub-
jects, it was really astonishing to find such a strikino-
advantage in favour of the petty Rajah of Nepaunee.
After various minor attentions received during the day, we
mounted our horses at four, P. M., and rode in to pay him
a visit, when the advantage was still more apparent; this
man living in a respectable Palace inside of a double
walled stone citadel, with a wet ditch all round it ; in the
most excellent order, and clean to a proverb. His little
fortress is a perfect model, and struck me so much, that I

284 , AIILITARY [A.D.

could not resist the impulse of mukino- a hasty plan, which
I now copy from the original.

Our reception was kind, open, and manly, and his
Highness took us all over the Palace and fort, before he
permitted us to return. He had commenced an extensive
fort, of which this was to be the citadel ; and after expend-
ing an immense sum, as it were to prove his science in the
plan, and the art of his masons in the building, the whole
was abandoned, at the instigation of a former Political
Ao-ent, leaving to after-ages a model of superior architec-
ture and masonry ; for I never saw such solid work as
some of the complete bastions exhibited. A half-finished
Palace also stands near the further extremity of the pro-
jected fortifications, with a fine stone wall and large tank
close to it. He had likewise erected some really beautiful
water-works ; by which the whole town, as well as the fort,
was amply supplied by aqueducts, leading from springs in
a range of hills three miles to the westward. We got
home at sun-set; and at ten, P. M., when every one else
was asleep, I received a present of ten cooly-loads of fresh
fish, none under a foot in length, which I ordered to be
sent to the different messes, &c. Next morning I rode
out, and looked at all the works, particularly the aqueduct,
before breakfast, and invited the Rajah to come and see
our camp in the evening. He named half-past four, and I
sent a troop of cavalry to escort him out, receiving and
saluting him at the head of the two European regiments,
drawn out in the road to our head-quarter lines. He
brouo-ht all his chiefs with him ; and, contrary to Native

GROUND PLAN AND SECTION OF Till'. (ITADKf. OF NKPAUNKI'

/G-<ur

8. a. Shedi fcr Cannon, Slore-lir
K. The ditch lull ol ».,ur. '

n. Tlie Iiu,i»l'» ralicc. K. The Palace nar.lc

Sc.lioii iliioiiKli A. n. :iii,l C ..f the ahove (Jroinid I'l.u. ; A. tm\ V bein); ilie Si..rcli..usri and D,tch.

1827.] ri:mfnisckn€;f,s, 287

eti(iuette, arrived before the time. I made the troops pass
in review order before him, and then conducted him to my
tent, where he and all his chiefs, with such oflicers as
pleased, were seated on three Turkey carpets on the floor.
We conversed in Hindoostanee cheerfully, without inter-
preters or restraint, until he expressed a wish to retire,
saying, he was well aware how irksome it must be to us,
to sit cross-legged in our tight pantaloons. The usual
parting ceremony of presenting paan, separie, and attar,*
then took place, when we arose, mounted our horses, and
escorted this fine manly Prince beyond the camp ; where
an excellent feeling was displayed by the soldiers, who
had been dismissed from parade, and all turned out in their
undress by companies, and voluntarily saluted our visiter
as he passed. My poor friend. Colonel Place, alone was
unable to partake of this gratifying scene ; being confined
to his bed by the kick of a horse, added to his former ill-
ness. The Rajah returned with alacrity the greeting of
our soldiers, and I never saw greater cordiality than what
pervaded our meetings ; and we all parted with expressions
of mutual satisfaction and regard. On returning home, I
found that his attentions had not been confined to me, but
that he had sent presents of fish, fowls, fruit. Sec, to all
the officers, and even the men of our camp. Where such
an abundance of fresh fish could have been collected, I
can form no idea ; certainly all the tanks, and even rivers
in his own country, were not likely to produce so many at

* Paan is the betel leaf; Separie, or Ar^ikah, the betel nut; and
Attar, the essential oil of roses ; three indispensable articles on all such
occasions.

288 MILITARY [A.D.

a moment ; and hearing only from his people that my
butler was enquiring for a particular kind of fine table rice,
to carry home with us, he immediately sent me out two
cooly-loads of what was collected for his own table, and
ordered a bullock-load to follow us, refusing all payment ;
though he could not prevent his servants being rewarded,
as the agents of his kind and delicate attention.

Early on the morning of the 17th of December we
marched eleven miles to Cheenchnee, over a very uneven
country ; in the first four or five of which we passed
the Kaludghee brigade, encamped at Rampoor, and
reached our ground in a rocky spot beyond Cheenchnee,
near a range of hills, at half-past eight. There is, in this
neighbourhood, a remarkable Banian tree, of enormous
dimensions, in some low cultivation to the south-westward
of the village, which is very well worth the trouble of a
ride, as a natural curiosity. This place is not in the direct
road ; and finding that no wheel carriages could accompany
the corps in that route, we were obliged to abandon our
first intention.

December 18th, we marched at half-past four, A. M.,
thirteen miles to Billumbee. It was a fine pleasant morn-
ing, and we reached our ground, which was very confined
and stony, at a quarter to nine. Here we received extra-
ordinary news from Europe, of the 23rd of August, by the
Royal Charlotte; and accounts of another storm at Madras
on the oth instant, which had destroyed all the ships in
the Roads. What business they had there, in the very heart
of the north-east monsoon, I cannot conceive ; but this I
know, that no warning will serve to prevent men from
such fool-hardy exposure ; and it is the same with every

1828.] RKMINISCliNCKS. 289

other danger. My poor friend Place being still very ill, I
resolved to run on to Belgaum, to prepare for his reception ;
as, by giving him my palanquin-bearers to assist his own,
he could get on far more ex])editiously.

December the 19th, we proceeded thirty-nine miles to
Belgaum ; where I arrived on horseback, at half-past seven,
A. M., after a short and fruitless campaign, in which we
lost altogether about four hundred men, by an enemy
which few mortals can conquer.

On the 20th, my esteemed friend. Colonel Place, ar-
rived and became our guest ; and little did we then think
that all our care would prove unavailing. Here, with
every comfort around him, and abundance of good medical
aid, instead of recovering, as we had all hoped in a few
days, he grew worse every hour ; and w hat was at first
taken to be inflammation in the bowels, soon gave evident
proofs of a serious attack of liver complaint. Every means
which skill and attention could devise were used by the sur-
geons, to produce a salivation, but all were fruitless and un-
availing. One moment at the brink of the grave, and rallying
the next in the most surprising way, he struggled hard; and,
with a constitution originally good, a form of uncommon
strength, and a fortitude and resignation which no illness
could subdue, he held out when every medicine failed.
Fully prepared for the event, as a pious Christian and a
soldier, he continued under the most excruciating agonies,
without one favourable symptom, for fourteen days, when
we all supposed his troubles were at an end ; but, on the
3rd of January, 1828, he suddenly revived, and appeared
to be mending from that hour ; his symptoms being, not

VOL, 11. u

•290 MFI.ITARV [A.D.

salivation, but a cessation of pain, sound and refreshing
sleep, returning- appetite, and every appearance of con-
valescence. The Doctors now determined that we should
remove him to the sea-coast for embarkation, as soon as
he could possibly bear the journey ; and as he had an old
friend in command of Vingorlah, that place was selected
accordingly. During this short period, since we had left
Colapoor, two other officers died of the liver complaint,
and several were sent away very ill to the sea-coast; our
medical men, therefore, became so few for duty, and had
so much to do, that no one could be spared to accompany
my friend. We, consequently, prepared to attend him our-
selves ; and, on the 6th, it was determined that we might
set out the next morning. The route being entirely new,
I shall here give regular extracts from my daily Journal.

TOORKWADEE.

" Fourteen miles west, January 7th. We set out a little
after four o'clock this morning, in the densest and coldest
fog I ever experienced in my life. It had been on nearly all
night, and lasted till eight. Our friend bore the motion
uncommonly well, and has continued pretty well all day;
thank God ! We are encamped on bad ground, beyond a
nullah, full of large stubble, and rather low, but the ap-
pearance of the country all round is truly beautiful; indeed,
I never saw a more lovely view, and, being well wooded, it
promises abundance of game to sportsmen : but my time
has been too much occupied to be able to try it since I
came to Belgaum, and it is now out of the question.

" On the 8th of January, we travelled sixteen miles to

If^'J'S.j ki;minis(i;n(;|..s. 291

Uainohaut. — Tliouoli anotlicr foji; liacl commenced :it
two, and actually lasted till nearly nine o'clock, A.M.,
we set forvMird at gun-fire, by a dim moon-lit^lit, and
got on well, from tlie road being broad and good. The
iiaze partly cleared lor a few minutes as we passed Patnali,
seven miles ; and when we got on a rising ground l^evond it,
the surrounding undulating country, appeared like a sea
studded with small islands. This was the most distinct
optical deception I ever experienced ; and it proved that
the fog was confined to a certain height on the horizon, as
the ground over which I was riding, und the tops of the
neighbouring hills were quite clear. At half ])ast nine we
encamped on the bank of a rural mountain stream, in a wild
romantic spot, about five miles beyond Patnah, and twenty-
six west of Belgaum. Our friend still improving, made
two good meals, and we started again at four, P. M. ; pro-
ceeding to the Ramghaut Pagoda, which we reached be-
fore sunset ; and here, with the assistance of curtains and
tent walls, we are very comfortably lodged for the night.
Though there are only two or three small hovels and an old
choultry, formerly fitted up for travellers, without a door or
window-shutter left, still there is much interest in this spot.
The whole coast, for many miles, being distinctly visible,
the Goa river can be traced in it's serpentine course, from
it's source to the sea.

" January 9th. Nine miles on to Goat kr liarie. — ■
After an early breakfast, we set out at half jjast seven :
the Ghaut, commencing immediately, is one of the best-
made passes I have ever been through in the l-lasl. though
down a stupendous mountain \ and it must have been a
u 2

292 MILITARY [A.D.

labour of many months to form such a capital road in so
rugged a declivity. So far was within my command, and
I had a party of Pioneers keeping it in order. The descent
is about five miles, after which there is an excellent road,
occasionally crossing very stony rivulets, to the delightful
spot on which we are encamped ; a beautiful green plain to
the right, and a short way beyond two villages on eminences
on both sides of the road, the larger one to the right being
extremely picturesque. There is abundance of ground
here for the encampment of one thousand men, with some
shady trees every here and there, and a fine limpid stream
close by. During the day we felt the great difference of
climate, but not in any extreme ; we arrived at our tents
at ten, A. M. ; the Colonel much exhausted, but no visible
complaint.

" Our route on the TOth of January, was sixteen miles to
Koekun, a deserted village. We set out a little before five,
day breaking at half past five ; about a quarter to six
passed through Bsetsey, a fine village four miles on ; and
four miles further a few scattered houses called Kurosah ;
after which we did not see a single habitation the whole
way : which is by a very good broad road, mostly through
deep jungle, and occasionally over stony rivers and rocky
elevations; but upon the whole, there is a considerable
descent, I should say of some hundred yards, though very
gradual. Quite tired, and disappointed at not finding our
tents pitched near some village about ten miles on, we did
not reach our ground till nine, A. M., without a single
house in view. We are now encamped under the shade of
a large umbrageous tree, with several ruined mud walls in

1828. J RKMINISCLNCMS. 293

our neighbourhood ; and our servants have been informed
by the very few natives they met, tliat a considerable
village once stood on this spot, which was infested by
tigers and other wild beasts, who thinned tiie iniiabitants
so much, as to induce tlie few that remained to abandon it
altogetlier; this, if true, must have been some considerable
time back. I am liappy to say our patient held out
famously to-day, and we had altogether very ])leasant and
temperate weather. No annoyance from the inhabitants
of the surrounding woods during the night.

"January 11th. We proceeded twelve miles to Mel-
gaum. Set out at five this morning; and passed through
the town of Banda six miles on, having some good
buildings and a Temple on a picturesque hill, with a
river close to the westward ; after which tlie country opens
considerably, with cultivation, and we arrived at our
ground near Melgaum, at half-past eight. It was rather
warm to-day, and our dear patient exerted himself, talking
a great deal too nnich to one of our family, who joined us
from Vingorlah.

"January 12th. Ten miles to Vingorlah. — At four,
A.M., we moved off, and arrived at this cantonment at
seven, where we had the satisfaction of lodging our friend
in the bungalow of Major Wood, the Commanding Officer.
He appeared altogether better to day, ate a hearty break-
fast, received several visitors and conversed with them all,
in spite of our warning;. and at three, P. M., had a relapse,
worse than ever, with a severe attack of fever, hot and
cold fits, &,c., in which the pulse continued as high in the
cold as the hot, accomjnuncd by excruciating pains in hi.s

294 MILITARY [A.D.

bowels unci liver. Somewhat relieved in the evening, he
continued in one cold perspiration all night, with little, if
any, sleep. The pulse, though softened, never for a moment
relaxed it's quick beating.

" January 13th. Still very poorly all day, and very ill
again at night.

" January 14th. Weak beyond what I have yet seen him,
and pulse still quick ; no sleep and no ease, and he is
falling away to a skeleton ; a miracle only can save him,
no human aid can avail. A quiet good night, but no
visible amendment.

" January 15th. Extremely exhausted, with cold, wet
hands, and a quick pulse. I left our patient this morning
at day-light, falling asleep, and took an early ride to the
Factory, about two miles off, and not very far from the sea
shore. I was altogether astonished at the strength and
beauty of this large fortified chateau, as well as at the
extraordinary situation in which it is placed, in low swampy
ground, out of the reach of the sea ; surrounded by woods
and paddy fields, and deficient in every requisite which
could induce a soldier, or even a man of common-sense, to
select it as a site for a residence, in a foreign country.

'' Our friend gradually improved during the day, and at
night was so much better, that we determined to leave him
and take some rest ourselves. Leaving attendants, both
European and Native, whom we could rely upon, we took
leave of him at nine, P. M., his body easy, but pulse still
quick and hands cold ; but we all hope to find him greatly
better in the morning; a night's rest may do much towards
a recovery: may God, of his infinite mercy, grant it to our

1828. J UKMiMsciiNi^i'S. .295

prayers, and to the wishes of every one who knows him,
far and near ! We found this a very o|)pressive day, and
the evenino; still more so from the sea-bree/e dying away ;
the difference between this and Belgaum is then severely
felt.

"January 16th. Our poor friend was nearly in the same
state as yesterday all the ibrenoon : rather worse in the even-
ing, and we have all resolved to remain with him to night.
Three pattaniars arrived to day, to carry the families of the
Bombay European regiment to Bombay ; that corps having
marched by land from Belgaum.

'' January 17th. The last was a wretched night, in which
the poor sufferer was attended by his kind host. Doctor
Inglis, and his Belgaum friends, and we did not expect
him to live to see another day; indeed, nothing but stimu-
lants, constantly administered by the Doctor, could have
enabled him to hold out. His reason entirely failed him at
half past two this morning, and it was with great difhculty
that we could keep him in his bed, for he insisted on a
miraculous recovery, and wanted to rise : he continued in
this state all day, struggling with a blister on his head,
without a glimpse of hope, but so excessively strong, that
he lingered on in the most deplorable state.

'' January 18th. The sufferings of our dear friend ended
at midnight, when he breathed his last without a struggle ;
and without having had one lucid interval from the time of
Irs delirium coming on. The body Avas opened by his own
desire at ten o'clock, by Messrs. Duncan, wlio arrived the
pieceding night, and Inglis, wlio found two abcesses in the
li\er, one far buck and deup-scatcd ; apparently of long

296 MILITARY [A.D.

standing ; the other lower down on the right side, larger
and more recent : but even these did not appear to have
been the immediate cause of his death. The bowels were
in a wretched state, the coats of the stomach discoloured
and decayed ; the lower parts of the colon having many livid
spots on it ; covered with putrid mucus, and wrenched out
of it's proper place. The only wonder is how he could have
lived so long in such a state ; and I am inclined to trace the
origin to a severe attack of cholera which he survived, some
months ago, with great difficulty. It has been my lot to
witness many deaths, and in various ways ; but I never
saw one similar to that of poor Place. A man of the
highest spirit, with the firmest mind, of the gentlest and
most affectionate disposition, uniting, in an uncommon
degree, the sincere Christian and the polished gentleman
with the brave and enterprising soldier. He was no sooner
known, than he was admired and beloved. I never in my
life knew a man so universally esteemed ; and I may add,
my own heart never clung so instantaneously to another.
The body was interred with military honours in a seques-
tered spot, at the foot of a small woody hill, with a few
trees overshadowing the grave. I read the Funeral Service
over his remains, while his amiable host commanded the
Funeral party, and was so much affected as to be forced to
request the next senior officer to give the word for Jiim.
Thus in an obscure and out-of-the-way part of the East are
deposited the earthly remains of one of the most promising
soldiers in the world. Possessed of much manly heanty,
an elegant and athletic form, still young, I may say, far
his rank, being an old Lieutenant-colonel at the age of

riir .ij„-/ ..vItv m' n.t.hin !.».< /.■/»«/ b .hit.' uh^r,' ,;,/.i' ///,„/■ i.t's,».-n .«:■ i>wi,n irii

1828.] RE.MINISCENCKS. 297

thirty-eight, having great interest, many friends, and an
enterprising mind. Had it pleased Providence that he
should survive, he must have risen to distinction, and he
would have richly deserved it. But his soul purified by
trial, was called to a better world, and he was haj)[Mly pre-
pared for the awful summons long before it arrived. Every
precaution was taken to make the grave secure and
durable; and the friends of the deceased have erected a
suitable monument over it, to mark the place to futurity."

Returning to Belgaum by regular stages, on the morn-
ing of the 25th of January I killed a royal or mountain
dove, as large as a crow, in the Ramghaut. This is a very
rare and curious bird : it had a beautifully spotted neck,
and was the first, and indeed only one of the kind I ever
saw during my long residence in the East. I have before
mentioned the pigeon royal, and imperial pigeon on
the Malabar coast; and it is a very extraordinary circum-
stance, that these giant tribes of the most innocent and
harmless birds should be confined to that tract of low
country ; whilst other birds and animals are of the same
size both above and below the Ghauts. It is, indeed, for-
tunate for the human race on that coast, that the beasts of
prey are not equally increased in size: on the contrary-, the
tigers are, in some instances, much smaller, particularly
in Travancore.

Proceeding on a tour of inspection, on the 7th of March
I arrived at Kittoor, twenty-eight miles south of Belgaum,
in my route to Darwar. The road is very good, and
through a beautiful, though somewhat parched country.
We put up at the Palace, now two thirds ruined ; but what

298 MILITARY [A.D.

remains serves to indicate it's former splendour. The
main porch is thirty feet wide and one hundred long, and
is supported by splendid teak pillars at least twenty-three
feet high. I never saw a finer roof of massy carved teak ;
and the other parts are exactly similar to other Native
Palaces ; having long narrow rooms in great abundance
above and below, all neatly finished. This building would,
in all probability, have stood uninjured for another century,
had it not fallen into our hands three years ago; and even
although much labour has been bestowed on the wanton
work of destruction, a great deal remains to mock our
imbecility : I never saw more beautiful slabs of granite,
than those with which the porch is paved ; one line of them
being each ten feet by seven, and all perfectly smooth.
The whole place, formerly a flourishing town and beautiful
fort, in a most fertile spot, is now a heap of ruins ; but
they are still worth seeing, and it has certainly been a
place of considerable strength. It is now notorious only
from the death of Mr. Thackery and several oflicers and
men, when he forced the possessors into rebellion, by an
attempt to coerce them with very inadequate means. This
gallant error was atoned by his own blood ; and the Com-
pany thus lost an able, upright, and intelligent public
servant, and the army, three young officers of great promise.
This overt act, and a considerable shew of resistance,
brought a large force against them under Colonel Deacon,
when they wisely surrendered : but although our artillery
had no hand in it, and their timely submission saved
themselves, however culpable, it could not save the de-
voted place from destruction : that of the fort was un-

1 82S.] i{ i". M 1 N 1 s (; K N c; us . 299

doubtedly consistent with sound policy. The Princess
who took an active part in the defence of the place is a
prisoner, with her daughters or nieces, at Bylehoongul.
In the evening we examined the ruined works, and
found them all so extraordinary, and one so strong, that
I determined on affixing a jjlan to my notes on this sub-
ject : indeed, I had formed no estimation of them from
previous accounts. The upper battery, as it was called,
was a strong citadel, no where commanded, though con-
spicuous for many miles in every direction ; and the sur-
rounding country highly cultivated, was ill adapted for
carrying on approaches. The present ruins are such that,
though the whole of the outer wall has been destroyed, I
would engage to defend this citadel with one regiment,
against any enemy without mortars and shells. The
country from thence to Darwar is more level and well
cultivated, the distance being only nineteen miles. The
finest bamboo jungles in this district are a short way to
the westward, to which we used to send from Belgaum and
Darwar for bamboos and other wood for building. The
district is, however, not very extensive.

What remained of this tour would not be interesting. I
shall, therefore, pass over a few reviews of corps, and
return to Belgaum.* At this time several regiments in the

* On the 24th of April, when driving a Pegu horse in a gig at Bel-
gaum, the horse-keeper having lost the curb chain, and neglecting to
inform me of it, the beast suddenly took fright, and, finding no check on
his head, set off full gallop through the outer gate of the fort, and dashed
the gig against a stone wall between the gates, by which we were thrown
violently out and nearly killed. I happened by good luck to fall un-
dermost and suffered accordingly ; and my head, which had escaped in

300 MILITARY [A.D.

Dooab were relieved by others ; * and early in September I
received orders from Madras to proceed immediately, and
complete my inspections within a short and given period.
The worst part of the south-west monsoon not being yet
over, I reported the circumstance to Head -quarters, and
determined to proceed alone, and not expose the staff to
such inconveniences as were likely to be encountered in a
march of five hundred miles, at such a season. I shall,
therefore, once more extract my daily routes.

" September 13th. Twenty miles to Nasyrguee. My
baggage, with an elephant and four camels, &c., under a
Native officer's guard of the 50th regiment, started yester-
day ; and I set out at half-past two this morning, to join
them. The road was exceedingly heavy, and I had consi-
derable difficulty with my mounted attendants, to get
through swamps, &c., to this place, which we reached at
half-past ten, and found my baggage in a choultry a mile
beyond ; not having had a drop of rain the whole way.
This building is made very comfortable by my tent walls,
&,c., and the country, though full of healthy cultivation, is
not nearly so bad for travelling as we had reason to expect.
The rain came on at half-past three, P. M., and lasted till
dark, not very heavy, but still sufficient to prevent my
taking any evening exercise.

the elephant pit in 1812, was much discomposed, even after I recovered
from the more violent effects of the fall ; having sudden attacks of vertigo
and fainting, occasionally.

* The south-west monsoon set in late this season, really commencing
only on the 24th of June : but it made ample amends in quantity for
it's tardiness ; and we therefore calculated on it's lasting till November.

1828.] REMINISCENCI-S. 301

** Sunday, September 14th. Eleven miles to llulkee.
Setting out in a fine mild morning, at half-past four, we
got to our ground at llulkee about a quarter past eight,
witliout meeting with any kind of obstruction, either in
the nuUalis or ravines. It began to lower just as we
reached our encampment, but did not rain all day, though
we had a very boisterous wind in it's stead. In the
evening a large bustard made liis appearance close to our
tents, as if he had been aware of the sacred day; and some
of the Natives, not being Christians, vainly endeavoured
to kill it. Here I found a large colony of cow-keepers,
with their cattle, who, while we had been deluged with
rain at Belgaum, had abandoned Kaludghee in despair of
forage, and come to this more favoured spot, to save
their cattle: but I am happy to add, that since they
left that place, it has rained hard for ten days. The
night was dark, and my tent full of servants, whom I
always forced to sleep inside, and none but the sentry
awake, when suddenly we were roused by a loud voice,
calling out " Ootlio sub-oot'o, Reench ayah .'" "■ Get up,
all of you, a bear is come !" Such an intimation was not to
be slighted ; I tumbled out in an instant, and groped
my way to the corner, in which stood my double-barrel,
always loaded, and seizing it, joined my drowsy watchman
outside, happy to have escaped a friendly hug in the dark.
Had Mr. Bruin only remained in a tangible shape, I
should not have hesitated to have sent a brace of bullets
through his tough hide ; the same reasons not being ap-
plicable to him which had probably saved the bustard's
life a few hours before. Wo had, however, no occasion to

302 MILITARY [A.D.

try our strength with this midnight visitor ; and I have even
some doubts whether it was not a deception of vision, or a
phantom of the sentry's brain ; though the subadar who
had risen in the guard-tent, declared that he had also seen
the *' reench." I have, by day-hght, sought and killed
many, and generally found them easily destroyed with one
ball J but I could not be so certain of an aim at night, and
therefore was not greatly disappointed at having to turn in
again quietly, to conclude my always limited slumber.

" September 15th. Twelve miles to Suttegueree. I found
the road this march, though stony and uneven, perfectly free
from aquatic obstructions, and we reached our camp at
eight, A. M. We had a fine, cool, windy morning, and a
remarkably pleasant day; but at three, P. M., came on a
heavy rain, which lasted about an hour. I find no further
remarks necessary to my former mention of this part of
the country, than one grateful to humanity, viz. that it has
generally exchanged it's bleak sterile aspect, for a fine
promising cultivation ; every valley as well as plain being
full of green jowarrie, and other dry grain; and here the
water is collected into a small, stagnant lake, near the old
deserted fort, close to our encampment : the new town
being about a mile to the south, and apparently a place of
some extent and respectability.

" September 16th. Sixteen miles to Koondrahall. We
set out at four, A. M., and moving at a brisk pace after
day-light, reached our ground, near a small temple on the
southern bank of a stony river, at eight o'clock. To halt on
the near bank of a river not being my usual custom in a
journey, it is necessary to mention that there was no good

IS28.] RliMlNISCRNl r.s, 'M'j

ground, ov any kind oi" shelter, on tlie opposite side. The
appearance of this spot, as, indeed, the vvliole country, is
niucli improved since I was last here. The weather still
dry, boisterous, and cool.

"■ January 17th. Fourteen miles to Lokapoor. Having a
long march to make to-day, I set out at three, A. M., over
a very stony country; and reached this place at seven,
when I breakfasted, and pushed on at nine for the head-
quarters of the light brigade, at

" Kaludghee, ten miles further. Arriving at half-past
eleven, I met a kind rece[)tion from Lieuteuant-colonel
Dickson, C. B., commanding the station, whose guest I
remained, i/icog, for three days, to allow my servants,
horses, and light baggage, to proceed to Bejapoor; but
as there was no likelihood of being able to get the elephant
across the rivers further on, I left him and my large tent
at this place, which I find much improved, even since I
was last here. The nick-name it had long retained of the
One-tree Station, is no longer applicable, since there are
now many little gardens, and every compound has a fine
green milk hedge round it.

" January 20th. Twenty-one miles to Kolaur, on the
Kistnah. I set out in a palanquin after breakfast ;
crossed the Gutpurba with little difficulty, in two basket
boats, and proceeded \vith two sets of bearers to the
Kistnah, which we reached at half-past three, P. M., and
found it not only full from side to side, but the northern bank
overflowed for nearly a quarter of a mile, in a dark windy day,
with the water beating against the shore like a sea. The ap-
pearance of our only conveyance to cross over was enou'jl^

30C MILITARY [A.D.

to cool the courage of any fresh-water sailor, let be a poor
soldier; who might have been excused for hesitating to
embark in two miserable cockle-shells of basket-boats,
which appeared to ferrj- us over a troubled ocean. ^ly
heart sunk within me ; but a sense of duty, and a reliance
on Providence, which has never failed me through life,
soon eradicated even,- feeling but that of joy that I had
left air my staff and family behind. I got with much diffi-
culty into one of the said circular baskets, and my set of
bearers into the other, and we cleared the opposite bank
in about an hour, in perfect safety. As no set of men in
India earn a wretched pittance with such toil and danger,
I never could get safely out of their hands without adding
my mite towards their comfort ; and these poor boatmen
were, consequently, much and agreeably surprised by,
what I suspect, a ven,- unusual, though well-merited ac-
knowledcrment. Xo sooner had we made the opposite
shore than the rain descended, and the wind increased to
a heavv squall, to make us, as it were, more sensible of the
Divine mercy, in permitting us to get safely over such a
danger.

'* Sunday, January •21st. Fifty-one miles to Bejapoor.
Moving on till midnight, I overtook one of my own
charo-ers, and mounting; him at daylight, rode on to this
far-famed citv ; on the road to which I examined the ruins
of several palaces, looked at the great guns. Sec. ; and then
entered the Asar ]\Iosque, in which they keep sacred
reliques, such as the heard of Mahomet! or rather the
parings or shavings of his most sacred oeard. This
building is extensive and beautiful, and is joined to the

182^.] KKMINISCI.NCI.S. 305

Shah's palace by a bridge across the ditch of the inner fort:
I took up my abode for the day in the Joomah Musjeed ;
but will not now, en passant, and on the Lord's day, say any
more respecting this stupendous proof of the instability of
all human grandeur ; in which have been expended mil-
lions of money in buildings alone, for bats and owls to
inhabit. The heart sickens while in the very act of ad-
miring the surprising domes and enormous masses of hewn
stone, raised by means apparently not handed down to the
present generation ; and, on my return, I shall, j.lease God,
fill some pages with the fading wonders of Bejapoor, or
Visiapoor, as it is generally written in our maps.

" January 22d, Twelve miles to Xagtanna. Leaving my
servants, basfgaoe, and guard, at Bejapoor, I set out in a
palanquin, at three, A. M. It was a fine moon-light
morning, and instead of sleeping on the road, my mind
suddenly turned upon a subject to which I had been fre-
quently urc^ed by my friends, viz. the publication of my
Journals ; and I at length came to this conclusion, that if
my life be spared, I will, whenever freed from my present
toilsome life, certainly print them. We passed through a
good deal of jungle favourable for sportsmen, and arrived
at a small temple in a decayed fort, where I put up durinor
the heat of the day ; and in the evening again proceeded

" Twelve miles to Tadawulguee. I set out at four, P. ^L,
on a cloudy, and occasionally rainy evening; at eijht,
reached a little tappall choultry, barely large enough to
contain the runners and ray palanquin. There is no great
appearance of rain, but it is a time of considerable anxietv,
when the full-moon falls on the autumnal equinox, as it

VOL. II. X •

306 MILITARY [A.D.

did to me once before in the China seas. There are
several small rivers in this march, and the latter part is
mostly through a cotton soil, which in heavy rain would
be scarcely passable. The villages are very miserable,
and the journey thus far from Bejapoor has little interest
in it. I found encamped here a horde of Indian Pyle-
wauns, or Eastern Gladiators, to the number of some
hundreds ; their tents being formed of ten thousand differ-
ent patches, put me in mind of Joseph's coat of many
colours; and inside of each were men, women, and chil-
dren, dogs, calves, and tomtoms, all crowded promis-
cuously ; the cattle being picquetted outside, all round
them. Late as it was, they offered to exhibit before me ;
the gentlemen in wrestling, and the ladies dancing and
singing ; but being an old-fashioned fellow, I politely de-
clined the entertainment.

" September 23rd. Thirteen miles to UUoor. It was a
cloudy but fair morning ; and we started with some moon-
light, at half-past three, x^t half-past six reached Hindee,
on the bank of a small river ; and at half-past seven
reached this miserable place, near another rivulet. Here
I could not find any shelter, saving under a small mirgosah
tree; the small temple being full of eye-flies. This is an
uninteresting spot, and happy is the traveller, who can
find a tree, even such as I have done. A trying day, but
Abdul Cawder, my troop havildar, who had asked leave to
go from Bejapoor to Sholapoor, to see his friends, asto-
nished me not a little, by bringing me a cup of tea and
some bread and butter, while I was writing my Journal ;
and I find this good creature has, unknown to me, brought

1828. J KKMINISCF.NCKS. 307

on these things post, for my convenience. I am now con-
vinced he volunteered, not for his own jDleasure, but to
ensure my comfort on the road.

" September 24th. Thirty-six miles to Sholapoor. We
moved on at half-past two, P. M., yesterday, and at lialf-
past five reached the Beemali, a])parently as broad as the
Kistnah, with a capital boat, in which we crossed by sun-
set. This is one of the best boats I have seen on any
inland river; and I was informed it was brought from
Punderpoor, where a Native Chief lias several like it, for
the accommodation of travellers. Here we found fresh
horses posted for myself, my orderly, and writer. It
was then raining, and afterwards increased to such a
degree, that it was little less than a deluge, till two, A. M.:
we all got completely wet through, both in moving, and
under a tree at Ingleghee, where we arrived at half-past
ten, P.M. It was with difficulty I could muster all hands
to move on again at half-past two, when we proceeded,
wading through mud and water till day-light; then, to
my surprise, I found the ground perfectly dry, the rain
not having extended to the barren Sholapoor district, and
at half-past six I reached the house of my old friend,
Lieutenant-colonel Woolf, commanding the station. This
place, already described, has not gained in appearance
since I was last here ; and I still pronounce it one of tlie
worst military stations under the Presidency of Madras.
Reviewing and inspecting the two corps took me till the
evening of the 1st of October, when I left Sholapoor, very
unwell, from excessive labour, particularly at my pen, in
an uncommonly hot climate, not having any kind of assis-

308 iMILlTARY [A.D.

tance, in making out my reports, &.C., and having suffered
fiom wet, in the first instance ; for it not only rained on the
road, but several times after my arrival ; still continuing
sultry and unpleasant throughout, although they had fully
partaken of the previous very heavy monsoon."

O^-J^^'

1828.J RtMINlSCKNCKS. 30!)

CHAPTER VIII.

liiiiiis iif liejapoor — The OopUx Bouij — Musuuuce — Hcl^uion —
Xtpuumc — Darwiir — Cujit of Good Hope — Ctmsluntiu — C'lm-
i/iisiori.

BE.TAPOOR.

" OcTOBF.RSd. Travelling post seventy-three miles from
Sholapoor, I was too ill to write till evening ; but, having
resolved to dedicate a couple of days to the examination
of this wonderful monument of ^Nlahomedan power ; here
follows the result :~

" On approaching from a considerable distance in any
direction, the stranger is struck with surprise at the im-
mense buildings, towering over the highest trees ; which
expectation is, however, little realized on a nearer ap-
proach to these stupendous reliques of ancient architec-
ture ; although there are some really magnificent ruins,
amongst the fragments of one of the most wealthy and
famous cities of the East. Enough, indeed, still remains,
and certainly might for a few years longer, to prove it's
former grandeur ; but the Sattarah Rajah, or some mis-
chievous animals using his name, are busied in demolishing
every Palace and mansion, of both Prince and Peer, and
carrying away all the large pillars and beams, mostly of

310 MIIJTARY [A.D

valuable teak, some centuries old. The interior fort, in
which the Sovereign resided, is now literally a mass of
stony rubbish, obstructing the path-ways ; and, strange to
say, in the midst of such devastation, I observed hundreds
of verdant custard-apple trees, in every direction, appar-
ently growing in stones instead of soil. Nothing is now
left in the ruins of the fort worth looking at; though I
could distinguish, amidst the rubbish, many fragments of
beautiful and highly polished chunani of various colours,
with which the Palace apartments had been adorned.

" Passing from this ruin, the next attraction is the Asar,
an immense place of worship, formerly attached to the
interior Palace, by a bridge, now unserviceable. It has a
beautiful stone fountain in front, overflowing with water ;
and, independent of the shavings of the Prophet's beard,
which are deposited in a corner room of this most sacred
place, two old rotten sticks, which are suspended against
the wall, at a considerable height over the principal
entrance, are particularly pointed out to all visitors as a
couple of sugar-canes, left there by the last King, to shew
to posterity the giant size of this plant in those magnifi-
cent days : and as all my servants, and the whole guard
were Mussulmans, being selected on purpose for this trip,
thev were all particularly anxious to obtain my credence
to the general assertion, that two old tent bamboos, as
thick as my arm, were specimens of original Bejapoor
sucrar-cane : another instance of blind superstition, similar
to those recorded of Pennacondah and Goa. They, how-
ever, bore my criticisms with great good humour ; and we
next proceeded to the Mausoleum of the said Monarch,

m^^

THE MAUSOLEUM, OR GOMEZE OF SOOLTAUN MAII-
MOUD; WITH A SECTION PLAN.

1828.]

RI'MlNlSCKNCIi

;U3

cullocl the Goiut'ze of .Sooltauii Malinioud ; u building, the
dimensions of \vhich are so extraordinary, that 1 have
preserved them in a sketcli taken at the moment.

'' This fine specimen of Oriental architecture is still
entire, but a wide crack in one of the principal supports of
it's enormous dome, leads me to suspect that it cannot last
much longer. It was lately white-washed in part, at the
expense of six or se\ t-n hundred rupees, allowed by some
Civilian for it's repair.

" The fourth in this order, but the first in real elegance,
strength, and utility, is tiie Joomali Musjeed, or Friday
Mosque, and not, as erroneously called by Europeans, the
Jummali Musjeed, or Assembly ^losque ; in which my
whole party put up, and were most comfortably lodged, in
about one-twentieth part of it's dimensions.

314 MILITARY [A.D.

" Though the principal dome is insignificant, when
compared to that of the Gomeze, it is, as will appear from
the accompanying plan, of enormous extent ; and even
from the outside cuts a very respectable figure. I have
also given a sketch of it, from the top of a neighbouring
house ; and, being in capital order, if let alone by wanton
man, it may last at least another century. We next went
to the north-westward of the outside of the city, where, at
about a mile's distance, are to be seen a groupe of the
most chaste and elegant Mussulman edifices to be met
with in all India ; called Roza Ibraum Adil Shah, exactly
two hundred years old ; which would still have been in a
perfect state, had not Aurungzebe, when he came to
attack the place, pitched upon it as one of his approaches,
and thus drawn the fire from the guns of the city upon
it, by which it was injured in several places.

" Having made a hasty sketch, I was endeavouring to
take copies of all the beautiful Persian and Arabic inscrip-
tions in verse, cut in granite over different arches, when I
was overtaken with one of those attacks of giddiness which
my late illness had renewed, and should have fallen from
the steps on which I had climbed, had I not been timely
caught by Mr. Falconer, Surgeon of the horse artillery,
whom I had met in the city, having recently appointed
him to the medical charge of a regiment at Sholapoor,
and who had accompanied me to view the lions on the
morning of the 4th. I could, therefore, then do no more
than note down the date of it's erection, and com-
paring that afterwards with the inscription on the pocket
pistol, ycleped Moolk c Maidan, I found that it must

18'J8.] R i: MiNiscF.Nci'.s. 315

have been tinishcd in tlie 1037th year of the Ilegira, or
sixty years before the Conquest. For a man labouring
under severe indisposition, with his hands full of official
business, and only two davs to spare, to attempt any thing
like a correct description of sucli a place as this, would be
both folly and presumption ; since even the present extent
of it's ruins is said to be twenty-four miles in circumfe-
rence ; thougli I bidieve that most of that space is now
occupied by scattered and mis-shapen fragments, in which
some few entire buildings are to be found, at the distance
of half a mile asunder. These, the former residences of
proud and wealthy noblemen, are now inhabited, if at all,
by beggars, or the lowest class of natives ; not even of the
same religion ; whose progenitors, had they lived in the
same neighbourhood with the haughty landlords of these
magnificent mansions, would have scarcely dared to crawl
towards their gates. There are, also, some surprising
monuments, and places of worship, still rearing their lofty
heads in every direction above the undistinguishable heaps
of rubbish of antiquity ; and, to put a man in mind of his
latter end, and direct his thoughts to futurity, a visit to
Bejapoor must be salutary, if he have any thing within
him entitled to the name of soul : such scenes, indeed,
must be useful to every thinking mortal, of whatever per-
suasion ; how much more then to the sincere Christian ?
Amongst the rarities, alias varieties, pointed out to me by
a Mahomedan, were the unfinished remains of an intended
jNIausoleum for the son of the Sooltaun ^lahmoud, several
miles from the Gomcze already mentioned, which, like the
fool in the Scripture, though in still more prcsuuq)tuous

316 MILITARY [A.D,

liinguage, he exultingly boasted, ' should throw a shadow
over the tomb of his father !' meaning, no doubt, that it
should be twice as large and lofty. But the Lord addressed
him, and said, ' this day thy soul shall be required of
thee :' and he left the work unfinished, a memento of his
pride and folly. I am unacquainted with the history, and,
therefore, may be mistaken in this particular ; but I have
drawn my conclusions from the various circumstances
related by my conductors ; and I take it to have been this
presumptuous Prince who was on the Musnud when the
place was captured by Aurungzebe ; which will naturally
account for his suddenly abandoning his enormous hobby-
horse. The pillage of his father's tomb by the conqueror,
was particularly insisted on by my informants, who shewed
me a common ornamental wooden railing. Sec, round the
sepulchre in the dome, said to have been substituted by
the savage captor, for the rich jewels with which the
whole was originally decorated.

'•' Two large stone Palaces erected for the public danc-
ino- girls, or courtezans of the state; a very beautiful stone
building, erected by the Totee, or Haakpez, the common
sweeper of the Royal Palace ; and several superb man-
sions of principal noblemen of the court, are also still
extant in the neighbourhood of the Citadel, and a few
near the Ooplee bastion. This fine cavalier is situated
near the rampart, and not above a few hundred yards from
the bastion, on which stands the Moolk e Maidan, a
kind of howitzer of cast metal, supposed to be partly gold,
and of enormous value ; the dimensions of which exceed
those of any cast gun I have ever seen or heard of.

1828.]

KIUIINISCKNCK

31'

" The accompanying,' representation was taken from actual
measurement; and I will add only, that it is fifteen feet
long, nearly five feet in diaineter, and the bore two feet
three inches. It is so very massive and solid, that it pre-
sents no vulnerable point to any common tools ; and has,
therefore, remained entire, and without even a blemish, to
the present day, on the top of an open bastion, in a ruined
rampart, exposed to the inclemency of the weather for
Tipwards of two centuries, and totally abandoned for per-
haps one. The bastion on which it is placed is roomy,
and near a gateway,* most solidly built of large stones,
which have hitherto defied the assaults of the common
leveller, and the little less destructive attacks of man. A

■ As this gateway is the one leadinsr out to the " Roza Ibraim Adil
Shah," and tliis gun is placed to the left of the gate, and the Ooplee
Cavalier on the other side, these two giant pieces may have been em-
ployed in the damage done to that elegant and sacred group.

318 MILITARY [A,D.

solid tower of considerable thickness, a few feet high, also
stands in the middle of the bastion, against which the flat
breech is placed, to prevent recoil; and, retired on both
flanks of this mound, are sunk two large square wells,
many feet deep, and with regular steps from the rear. On
enquiring for what purpose these excavations had been
made in the bastion, I was informed, that they were in-
tended for the gunners or artillerymen to retire into, when-
ever the gun was to be fired ; the match being lighted by
the last, and, of course, the bravest soldier of the party,
when he would also run off and join the rest, till the
effect of the explosion was over. The tradition is, that it
was actually fired once during the siege, when the ball,
missing the besieger's camp, went hissing through the
air, occasioning many mishaps on it's passage, for thirty or
forty miles, and was never found afterwards ! Indeed, my
informer very sagaciously added, ' Some suppose it is yet
flying ! ' There were a few more balls left to satisfy the
present pigmy race of their identity ; but be this as it may,
the gun has a beautiful Persian inscription to the fol-
lowing effect: — ' That Aurungzebe captured the Moolk e
Maidan,' or Mydaiui, for I always mean al, in Persian
words, to be sounded as y, * in the 1097th year of the
Hejreh,' or Hegira, as Europeans usually call it, which is
generally understood to prove, that he found this gun in
existence, bearing this magnificent title, ' King of the
Plain,' or Sovereign of the flat country, when he cap-
tured the place. We next proceeded to the Ooplee
Wallee's Bastion, as it is most erroneously termed by the

1828, iu:.MiMscKNci;s. ^h)

Mussulmans, being literally in English a ' Biattco,' or
dried cow-dung • ' Woman's Tower ; ' this article being used
all over India, as peat is in Scotland, and sold by Hindoo
women, who are consequently known by that appellation.
This place having been for many generations in the pos-
session of the Mahrattahs, they had given this monstrous
Martello Tower the name of the Oopree, or Ooplee Boorj,
because of it's immense height, and of it's having stone
stops for ascending to the top outside. The difference in
the two languages, therefore, doubtless caused this ridicu-
lous mistake. This Cavalier is built in a circular form, at
least sixty feet high, and is a model of it's kind. It was
erected by the Prime Minister of Sooltaun Mahmoud, at
least two hundred years ago ; and stands alone in a retired
part of the fort, some distance from the ramparts, where it
commands the whole circumference within the range of it's
litt/e gun. I consider the ascent to the top as a service of
danger, particularly to a man, subject as I am, to vertigo :
but the temptation was too great to be resisted, and it was
crowned with success. Arriving at the summit, and look-
ing over the parapet into the inside, I was surprised to see
a common Malabar gun, lying in the centre, and exclaimed
against the trouble of ascending to look at such an insig-
nificant piece of artillery. ]My friend having, however,
begged me to descend and examine it, to my great asto-
nishment, I found it to be thirty feet long, and with a
bore of twelve inches diameter! when, from a few yards
distance, I made the annexed sketch, which will give
some idea of the size of the interior of the Ooplee Boorj,

320

MILITARY

[A.D.

when I assert, that it looked like a small cannon within
that space.

" I add also a rough sketch of the bastion, to illustrate
the description ; but not done to any scale of actual
measurement.

" Here ended my visit to the curiosities of this won-
derful city ; but I cannot leave the Minister's gun on the

1828.1 REMINISCJEiNCRS. 321

top of the Boorj, without expressing my astonishment, not
so much at it's manufacture, as at finding it tliere ; and
my wonder is increased by the present state of the walls,
over which it would be a work of uncommon labour to
hoist a common six-pounder; half a do'/en of which mioht
be fired at once out of this piece, as an extra charge !

" Sunday, October 5th. Seventeen miles to Moolwarra.
I set out at four, A. I\I., on horseback, in company with
Lieutenant M'Kenzie, who had overtaken me from Shola-
poor, and reached this place at nine o'clock, having come
through much cotton-ground, which was very heavy.
There is a deep black rivulet, very much resembling the
Dood Gungah, about thirteen miles on the road, that,
with three hours' rain would be impassable ; and several
smaller ones, which would be very troublesome crossing,
even for camels. By good luck we have had no wet, and
are tolerably lodged in two small choultries, with tent walls
across. I was happy to find my young companion willing
to join me in attending to the duties of the day. One of
my servants was taken ill of the cholera in the forenoon,
but, by a timely application of the usual remedies, was out
of danger in the evening.

" October 6th. Twelve miles to Kolaar, on the north
Ijank of the Kistnali. We moved off at day-liglit, and,
riding on quietly the whole way, arrived at a tolerable
shelter in the large village of Kolaar, about half a mile
from the river, at half-past eight, A. M. After breakfast
our things were sent across the ferry, the river being now
greatly reduced, and confined within it's own banks : but
we remained till four, P. M., when we liad tlio boats

vol.. II. V

322 MILITARY [A.D.

brought lower down, for the purpose of shooting on an
island in the middle ; and, crossing afterwards, we saw
some pea-fowl, but the island was covered with grass, &,c.,
so luxuriantly that we could scarcely make our way : in
the dry season it must be a good place for sporting. We
got over the river by sun-set, without difficulty; drank tea
and slept in a small decayed temple, close to the Village,
and set out again at two, A. M., having a long ride be-
fore us.

" October, 7th. Twenty-four miles to Kaludghee. After
a severe fag of six hours, and crossing the river at a very
bad ferry, below the town of Kaludghee, having lost our
way in the mud, we reached the Cantonment at half-past
six. Having already reviewed the corps here in March,
I again became incog., and put up with my friend. Major
Henry ; being still unwell, and anxious to avoid the parade
of command.

" October 9th. Ten miles to Lokapoor. After taking a
little rest, and enjoying the society of my friends at
Kaludghee, eti famille, I rode on here last evening ; a halt
in retirement being absolutely necessary for the restoration
of my health ; and, as I have not before given any account
of this place, the most remarkable between Kaludghee and
Belgaum, I shall now attempt it, on a halting day.

" Situated on the bank of a rocky river, it appears to
have been a place of great extent and consequence in
days gone by ; but has now very few good houses entire.
The ruins of others, and of castles, &c., actually impede the
way in the principal streets ; the fragments of which are
mostly of variegated marble, and some of them veiy beau-

18-28.] HF.MINISCI'.NCKS. 323

tiful ; but here stones abound, both outside and inside of
tlie gates. INIy tents were pitelied in a Pagoda conij)ound,
on tlie bank of tlie river, about half a mile to the westward ;
and the road was literally covered with stones the whole
way. There are some good trees on the bank, and we
were, therefore, somewhat sheltered from the heat ; but it
was still oppressive. We had some thunder and lightning
in the evening; but as it was then dry, I sent off my
camels, cook, coolies, and part of the guard ; heavy rain,
however, commencing at nine o'clock P.M., and pouring
till three, A.M., they were out all night on tlie road. It
was, indeed, a ])erfect deluge ; and the river came down
like a torrent about midnight, roaring like a cascade :
lucky it was that we had not to cross it.

" October 10th. Seventeen miles to Hoolkoond. Setting
out at day-light, I found the whole country a sheet of
swamps and quicksands ; our horses, however, got on
better than any other animals. I would willingly have
halted half-way, but my cook had determined otherwise,
and pushed on through all impediments, till he reached
this place ; obliging us, nolem volens, to follow him. My
poor camels were crawling along, half dead in the mud,
when we overtook them at half past nine, and at ten
reached a little Swamy-house * in the village, in which I

* Having frequent occasion to mention Pa-Jjodas, Tenijiles, and
Swamy-houses, I may as well explain, that these are various Hindoo
buildings, erected for worship, or dedicated to their numerous Deities.
Under the Madras Presidency in the Carnatic, to enter them in
general, much more to reside in one of them, would be considered
pollution and give great offence ; and there choultries are consequently
erected for the convenience of ail descriptions of travellers; liul in the

324 MILITARY [A.D.

was by no means sorry to find my writing-table and
breakfast things. The camels arrived at eleven, my palan-
quin at one, and the elephant, with my sleeping-tent, &c.,
at two, P.M. ; so that we are all up safe at last, after the
most distressing; march I ever made, when travellins: alone.
One proof of the extent and effect of this deluge was, that
the Belgaum Tappall, * which must find me daily on ac-
count of my official correspondence, instead of reaching
me at ten, did not arrive till half past two ; and the runners
reported, that the whole road was inundated. This is a
pleasant place, situated very near a Pass, in a range of
small hills, with a few pretty clumps of trees in the neigh-
bourhood ; and the people are remarkably civil and oblig-
ing; the very reverse of those at Lokapoor. We had
heavy rain again at night, and no tappall from Ka-
ludghee.

" October 11th. Eleven miles to Suttegeery. We set
out at half past five, and found the road considerably
better than that of yesterday. Three miles on we saw
a fort called Coopum, on one side, and a village on the
other side of a sandy rivulet ; with apparently a good Bazar
in -the latter, which is sometimes called Cope. Seven
miles on we passed Yetnall, a small village, with a nullah
and few trees, and reached this place at half past eight,
A. M. The cultivation all round is very high and flourish-

Mahrattah country, no one seems to care what is done to such places,
unless actually used by the inhabitants for their original purposes.

* The Tappall is the Post. Generally speaking, Tappall runners are
equivalent to post-boys; and travelling tappall, as I have before stated,
is going post : dawk being the Bengal and Bombay phrase for the

18'28.] Ix'i:mimscln(;i:s. :}l>0

ing, and tlie lake full, without any appoaranc/ ol' wild-
towl on it. Both ta[)})all.s came in very late, each liaving
been delayed by dillbrent nullahs. Having had several
showers during the day, what must we cxjK'Ct at night .'
and after consulting with my Vninc Minister, and the
rest of the Cahiiic/, it was determined, that, in spite of
present obstacles and fatigue, it was the safest plan to
push on; c/go, at twenty minutes after three, P. .M., we
set oti" again, nine miles to Boodicope. This was a real
fag, as we continued wading through black cotton swamps
and luxuriant crui)s till tlark ; when we were glad to stop
at a collection of miserable hovels, by courtesy called a
village, where we had to rest in the rain till our tents
were pitched : our only consolation for which was, that we
had crossed several bad nullahs, which would most likely
be impassable to-morrow. We soon got under cover of our
cotton houses, where we were beset by myriads of insects,
and the rain continued increasing during the night.

" October 12th, Sunday. Sixteen miles to Nasiree.
Setting forward in a gloomy-looking morning, at day-light,
we got here without any rain to signify; and wading on
till ten, A.M., reached the little choultry at the same
time, with all my coolies. The elephant arrived at eleven,
the camels at twelve ; and innncdiately after noon, the rain
recommenced in downright earnest. How we shall get into
Belgaum I know not ; for it is now pouring a torrent on
the top of the little choultry, in w hich we are so fortunate
as to find shelter.

" After writing the above, a small nullah, with a bed of
rocks, suddenly tilled so com[)letely as to become totally

326 MILITARY [A.D.

impassable ; and one of my grass-cutters having gone
across a little before, could not now return. After remain-
ing there for four hours, one of my servants came in and
asked for a long rope, which led to my knowledge of the
circumstance ; and, as he added that the man could not
swim, I was induced to undergo a little more moistening,
to lend a hand to save a poor fellow-creature, and lucky it
was that I did so ; for, having got the camel-ropes and
thrown one end of them across the torrent, when I arrived,
I heard my sapient Hyder telling him to strip himself, and
fasten the end of the rope round his body, and come into
the stream. This I put a stop to instantly ; for, in the first
place, the nullah was narrow and very deep ; in the second,
it was carrying quantities of large stones along, with a
rapidity like lightning ; and in the third, they were going
to attempt to drag a man, who could not swim, across by
the middle, against a foaming torrent. I immediately
called out to him to loosen the rope from his own body, and
tie it carefully round the strongest tree near the spot,
there being several growing close to the water's edge. He
then threw all his clothes and implements over, with
stones rolled in or tied to them, so narrow was the stream ;
whilst I carried our end of the rope down the river, so as
to give it a considerable slant with the current; when
carefully fastening it to another tree on the bank, I taught
him, as well as I could, to hold on with both hands, and
let himself be washed over, as it were, by the force of the
tide. When we had all got to the edge, and some even
into the water, to assist him, he came boldly in, and was
instantly washed against the rope, which, getting under

182S.] iu:mi NiscKNCKs. ;]27

his chin, the current forced hun into tlio muldlc, and the
strands beginning to break, he, of course, sunk for an
instant; but the sUmting direction of the rope bringing
him quickly up again near our side, and all hands assist-
ing, we contrived, with much diiliculty, to drag him to
land, hanging upon the line by the chin, which, of course,
was considerably excoriated. Had I remained in the
choultry, or had he perished, with all my care, this would
have been a famous proof of my assertions to Head-quar-
ters of the unfitness of the time for such excursions ; but,
of far greater consequence, in my estimation, is the life of
an ignorant, insignificant grass-cutter, than even the ap-
probation of my worldly superiors, or the convincing them
of error. Had not this nullah been immediately between
us and the village, I might have been tempted, from the
appearance of the weather, to have pushed on this evenino- :
but here we are fixed for the night, at all events.

'' October 13th, Monday. It poured the whole night
to my no small annoyance, and has not ceased at half past
six. How to go on is the question : yet go on we must, or
starve, unless the rivers render our advance positively im-
possible. INIy poor camels and horses have been in the
wet for twenty-four , hours ; and had they been like Lot's
wife, must have melted into brine, and mingled with the
muddy stream long ago.

'^ This small choultry, twenty feet square only, con-
tained, during the night, my cot, palanquin, table, and
baggage, three servants, one cavalry-orderly, one old
woman, six horse-kee})ers and grass-cutters, one barber,
and twelve palantiuiu-buys, with a sentry standing ni the

32(S MILITARY [A.D

midst ; in all, twenty-five souls sleeping and one waking :
and the tent outside full of the guard, &c. What would
the sensitive Matthew Bramble have said to such a medley
of malaria, if I may so call the gas which pervaded this
space for ten hours ? Some gentlemen of my acquaintance
would, at all events, have substituted their horses for their
attendants, as nocturnal companions, in such weather, if
they could have actually condescended to permit the rest
of their sable brethren to remain so near them; but far
dearer to me is the comfort of the meanest and blackest of
the human race, than the lives of a hundred horses. This
is not an idle boast, but an honest assertion of a plain
duty, which I have acted up to during my life : and it has
been my study for many years, to impress this feeling on
the minds of my juniors in the service, who are too apt,
from not giving the subject due consideration, to treat the
Natives, particularly the lower orders, as creatures of an-
other species. I have dated all this from Nasiree ; but the
fact is, we have never got so far, it being nearly a mile in
our front, across the nullah I have mentioned, which has
been a perfect bar to all communication for twelve hours.
It is now opening, at seven, A. M. ; and my breakfast pre-
paring in the choultry, not only warns, but forces me to
conclude ; my eyes being assailed by the smoke that
' so gracefully curls ' round me.

" October 1 3th. Twenty-three miles to Belgaum. I set
out at eight, A. M., barely fair, and proceeded over ex-
ceedingly heavy mud and swollen nullahs, via Marihall, as
far as Chandore, which we reached at noon. This place,
about eight miles in a direct hne, and eleven by the road

KS-JS.] HEMINISCENCKS. '32\)

from lu'lgiuiiu, is the lliini, ov (k'i)ot I'or all (he public
cattlr ill tiie Dooab. lleri" a very large riviik't, lull from
bank to bank, antl foaming and roaring by, at once ar-
rested our progress ; and had not one of the Commissariat
Managers, on seeing us from the other side, kindly sent
two of the largest elephants over to our assistance, we must
have remained on the eastern bank. As it was, these noble
animals with great exertion, could barely convey three
of MS, my butler, orderly, and self, with three horses, over
in an hour ; and my orderly's liorse was all but drowned,
the rope breaking as the elephant was dragging him
across, in water up to within a foot of the top of his back,
on w hich only one of us dare go at a time. I fancy, there-
fore, it was at least nine feet deej) ; and my havildar's
horse was carried down nearly a mile, his feet appearing at
one moment, his head at another, as he rolled about in the
opaque mass by which he was enveloped. One of my
own chargers also disappeared on the road, but was forth-
coming next day. A little after one o'clock we set out
again, and being well mounted, dashed through thick and
thin, till we reached dii/cc doiiuon at half-past three, well
drenched by rain above, and covered with mud below ; and
our three horses having performed a journey equal to at
least sixty utiles on dry ground. Here, at my own Head-
quarters, having the artillery to review, I am enabled to
rest a few days, before I proceed to complete my tour.

'* On the night of the 14th, my horses, camels, and
baggage arrived safely, having been aided by elephants in
the worst part of the road ; and the Natives brought us ni
a dead royal tigress, killed close to the fort. This monster,

330 MILITARY [A.D.

having lost her cubs, by the daring fool-hardiness of a grass-
cutter who found them when the dam was from home, and
without thinking of the consequence of meeting such a
mother, actually brought them from some distance, into the
fort, and sold them to Mr. Dartnell, Assistant Surgeon of
His Majesty's 41st regiment. The bereft queen of Oriental
beasts, with a sagacity, or rather olfactory endowment, equal
to that of the canine species, followed the track of the
robber to the very new gate of the fort, where, of course, she
could not well proceed ; and, as the rank grass had grown
up all round the glacis, she took up her abode therein for
some days, to the no small consternation of the more
peaceful inhabitants. Several gentlemen had, previous to
my return, tried to lure her to the crest of the glacis,
being prepared on the ramparts to shoot her, or, more pro-
perly speaking, at her, from this 'vantage ground, across
the ditch ; but, though they pinched the ears of the young
princesses, to make them squeak, they failed to draw the
wily mother into their snares, and she was slain at a short
distance, while making a supper of a poor man's cow,
without having obtained the owner's consent.

" The rain continued with increasing vehemence till the
19th, when it cleared up a little, and the next day was
fair and delightful, after such a monsoon. This gave my
tired and jaded cattle and servants a seasonable rest, as no
troops but artillery could be prepared for review in such
weather ; and we were obliged to allow the saturated earth
to recover, ere a gun could be moved, even to the practice
ground. This duty performed. Captain Cunningham, the
Assistant-quarter-muster-general's servants and mine were

1828.] ri.;.minis(m:n(;i:s. :i31

started otl' in advance, with our cattle and baggage, to-
wards Colapoor, and we followed in our palanquins.

" November 4th. Thirty miles to Goregerry. Setting out
at night, we came on to Padshapoor, where, after crossing
the Markinidah river only three feet deep, at six, A.M., we
mounted our horses, and rode on to the south bank of the
Gutpurba, about six miles, where we found two basket-
boats, and crossed over by half-past seven ; our camp
being formed on a small clear spot, near the north bank.
The river is now very much fallen, and almost fordable,
opposite to the fort of Goregerry, which is a respectable-
looking place, belonging to the Colapoor Rajah : we are a
short distance to the right of it, and, the weather being
fair, we enjoyed some dry shooting for three hours in the
evening, to the north-westward.

** November 5th. Fifteen miles to Karosee. A very
pleasant ride this morning, through a highly cultivated
country, brought us to our tents, near this village, wliich,
after shooting on the road, we reached at nine, A. M, ; we
saw several bustards, but they only led us far out of our
way to no purpose : fine, cool, pleasant weather.

" November 6th. Eighteen miles to Barwar. At five
o'clock, in a very delightful morning, we mounted our
hor.ses and rode on, shooting all the way, to Booj, where
we arrived at ten, A. M., and took our breakfiist in a small
temple ; then crossing the Doodgungah, now only three
feet deep, we immediately afterwards encamped on our old
ground with the army, near the miserable village of
Barwar, at eleven, in fine, fair weather. This river lias very
high and steep banks, and was both deep and rapid when

332 MILITARY [A.D.

we crossed it in October, last year ; it is also in cotton soil,
and of course very difficult to ford in the rainy season.

" November 7th. Seven miles to Tadawulgie. We set
out at half-past five o'clock, on a delightfully cold morning,
and dismounted, sans aventure, at our tents, near the Jag-
gernaut Pagoda, at half-past seven ; having the town of
Tadawulgie on one side of us, and of Saumgaum on the
other. The weather excellent.

" November 8th. Twelve miles to Kolapoor. Mounting
our horses at four, A. M., we reached Colonel Truman's
house, in the new cantonment, by a short cut through the
country at seven ; without meeting the slightest obstruc-
tion, although there is a good deal of rank vegetation in
all directions.

" November 10th, one of my camels was suddenly taken
ill of the cholera, when out for forage, and actually died
on the way home. This is the first instance I have known
of any beast having that cruel distemper; and I could
have been much better pleased that the proof had been
made on an animal less valuable. The inspection and
reviews of the corps, separate and in brigade, fully oc-
cupied me till the I6th, when I visited His Highness,
at his Palace in the fort, and was pleased to hear a good
account of his conduct since our troops have been sta-
tioned there ; and to find him much more intelligent
than I had fancied at our former interviews. He begged
me to convey a request to Sir John Malcolm, which I have
reason to think will induce a visit from the Governor, when
on his approaching tour.

" November 16th. Having now completely made up

1828.] RiiMiNisrENCKS. 333

my mind to leave India finally in (wo or throe months, I
determined to retnrn to IJelganni, rid Nepaunee, to see
my old friend, Appa Desaye ; and set out at nii^ht, in
palanquins, accordin<2;ly.

" November 17th. Twenty-six miles to Nepaunee. Having;
reached Kagul during the night, where we rested till day-
light, I then mounted my horse, and rode on at a brisk
pace, to meet the Uajah : Caj)tain Cunningham, being
unwell, did not quit his palanquin, but followed at leisure.
About two miles from the place the Rajah made his
appearance ; and while his guns were announcing our
meeting, his servants were laying a carpet on the ground,
on which both dismounting, we embraced, and he intro-
duced all his j)rincij)al attendants as before. It is unfor-
tunate for my estimation of the Colapoor Court, that on
both occasions, after leaving it, I have moved in this direc-
tion, whereby the contrast between a Prince of dissolute
habits, and one of respectable conduct, so visible in every
thing around them, was so fully forced upon me. Appa
Desaye is my favourite of all the IMahrattah Chiefs ; in-
deed, of all the Native Princes I have ever known. There is
a frank, and at the same time dignified, manner about him,
seldom to be met with in the same person ; and such a
man should be a favourite, as I understand he is, with Sir
John jMalcolm, of whom he always makes enquiries, and
mentions having received letters from him, lie also en-
quired particularly after General Wellesley; and it was
with some difficulty I could make him understand that the
Great Sepoy General was now Prime Minister of l^^noland,
and Duke of Wellington; the former not creating such

334 MILITARY [A.D.

astonishment in his mind as the latter, being an entire
change of surname, which the Natives do not comprehend;
as they imagine titles with us to be merely added to
the original name ; consequently Sir Thomas Munro was
called Lord Munro ; and Sir John, is now called Lord
Malcolm. After sitting a little while in familiar chat,
conversing in Hindoostanee, without an Literpreter, not so
with Chutterputty, at Colapoor, he proposed that we
should re-mount, and proceed to the fort ; and then con-
ducted me to the unfinished Palace in the large fort, where
every thing was prepared for our reception. On alighting
he accompanied me into a large colonnade, hung up with
rich cloths ; at the end of which we found a number of
English chairs ready for us ; when, after conversing for
about half an hour, he politely said, he was detaining me
from my breakfast, and was rising to go, when Captain
Cunningham arriving, he sat a little longer, out of compli-
inent to him. He then took his leave, inviting us to visit
him in the evening. In the forenoon, he sent out food for
all our servants and my whole escort, and even offered us
some rich presents, which I declined ; at the same time
explaining to his people that no disrespect was intended,
and reminding them that I had accepted his pocket hand-
kerchief in the morning, when, finding that I had mislaid
my own, he had offered it to me, and which I told him I
should keep in remembrance of him.

" In the evening he received us with a salute of cannon,
and was most attentive in shevi^ing us all his improvements,
by taking us round the citadel, into which he is now con-
ducting the fine pure water by the aqueduct from the hills,

1828.] RKMINISCENCES. 335

under tlie ditch, into a reservoir inside ; leaving the orif^inul
one outside untouclied, I'or the accommodation of the in-
habitants of the pettah, or suburbs. At night we took our
leave, and retired to rest; and not having any impediment,
determined to pursue tlie direct road home, from which our
wheel carriages deterred us, wlien moving with troops hist
year.

" November 18th. Fourteen miles and a half to Yetnee.
After some rain during the night, we set out on horseback
at half-past four, A. M., and reached a small, but steep
ghaut, at day-light. Arriving at Yetnee at lialf-past eight,
we crossed the Hurucassah river, only two feet deep, and
encamped on the south bank. We had some slight rain
during the day, and it is threatening more. This is a fine,
clear river, about the same size as that at Padshapoor ;
and there is evidently a ford here, but it seems deep both
above and below the village ; which we have not entered,
though it looks well from the opposite side. Heavy rain
from two, A. M., till gun-fire.

" November 19th. Fifteen miles and a half to Rajoolee.
This morning we had a fresh edition of monsoon. Captain
Cunningham being still unwell, I mounted my horse at
day-light, and had a proper wet and fatiguing trip of it,
over a great variety of ground, and two ghauts, in low
hills. We reached Diddee on the Gutpurbah at nine,
A. M., where we crossed that river with great difficulty,
having nearly four feet water and a strong current, with an
abominable stony bottom, and reached our tents, which
were fortunately sent off yesterday, at Rajoolie, at ten. On

33G MILITARY [A.D.

the road we were charged by one of our elephants, who
at first took fright and ran away ; then, suddenly turn-
ing round, dashed upon us in a narrow lane, with a
thick hedge on each side, and pushing across through all
impediments, rushed in close to my Orderly, and in front
of Captain Cunningham's writer, John Cope's horse, which
instantly stopping short, threw his rider, as it were, in the
elephant's face; when the beast, who thereby proved
that he meant us no harm, rushed through the opposite
hedge, with a roar which made us all quake, and carried
an immense load of trees and straw upon his back to some
distance, before his rider could stop him. At one moment
I really thought he would have been on the top of me,
when my horse made a sudden bound, and set off at speed,
leaving him to encounter those pedestrians who were
bringing up the rear. This adventure, as it were at the
close of a long career in India, was the only one of the
kind I had ever experienced in peaceable times, and when
little prepared for such a rencontre. Captain Cunningham
arrived at half-past ten, and my palanquin at eleven, in
time to get a suit of clothes out; for as it appeared setting
in, we determined, soldier like, to proceed at once, before
the obstacles should increase. Having taken a meal there-
fore, and allowed our poor fellows a little rest, we set out
again at two, P.M., in the midst of gloom and rain, and
getting on much better than we had reason to expect, ar-
rived at Belgaum, fifteen miles and a half distant, at
half-past four ; my horse appearing quite fresh, after car-
rying me thirty-one miles, in ground no where firm, and in

1828.] KKMiNiscENri'S. 337

miiny places exceedingly heavy. Here I am then, once
more incog., wanting rest, hating ceremony, and having to
proceed again, to finish my tour.

" November 26th. Fifty miles to Darwar. Having rested
ourselves and servants four days, we once more resumed
our journey and arrived at this station ; where I put up
with Mr. Nisbet, Political Agent, and commenced my
work, inspecting the 18th regiment; which, by a most ex-
traordinary coincidence, is the old 10th, the first Native
corps I joined under Lord Cornwallis, in 1791 ; and in
which there is not a man now alive who was then in it,
excepting myself. They were the worst-looking corps in
the service, and went by the name of the Antediluvians. I
shall, therefore, give an extract of their present perform-
ances, although I have hitherto avoided swelling my pages
with such matter.

" November 27th. Inspected the 18th Native regiment,
under Major David Ross, at six, A.M. Their clothing,
accoutrements, and knapsacks, old and ill-fitted, prevent
their cutting any dashing figure ; but there was not one
complaint in the whole corps. What with the sword exer-
cise afterwards, inspecting the public buildings, breakfast-
ing, and receiving and conversing with the Native officers,
I did not get back till two o'clock, P.M.

" November 28th. I saw the regiment fire ball this
morning ; and after the usual practice, the Major requested
permission to shew off a few manoeuvres, with six rounds
of ball. This was something novel ; and after each move-
ment, he very cleverly contrived to bring a front, or part of
one, to the butts, and gave their fire by companies, grand

v<)\.. n. z

338 MILITARY [A.D.

divisions, and line, without any accident ; which I must
own I was at first rather apprehensive might be the case
in promiscuous manoeuvring, with crowds looking on all
round. The Major acquitted himself with great judg-
ment ; and they have got a capital band of twenty years'
standing.

" November 28th. A dull and cloudy morning. I reviewed
the regiment at sun-rise, and their performance really sur-
passed any thing I have seen for many years. The Major,
who appears to be th^ Father of his corps, is an excellent
drill, and seems thoroughly to understand what he is
about ; no dull monotonous ro^e-work : and the men seem
completely aware of his intentions in every movement.
This I call the perfection of discipline ; and as it is
an ill-dressed, and consequently by no means a smart-
looking corps, I was the more agreeably surprised. The
truth, however, is this ; they are just returned from foreign
service, where they distinguished themselves against the
Burmese, and have not yet had an opportunity of refitting :
the faults are therefore accidental, but the beauties all
their own. After giving the due meed of praise to Major
Ross, his officers, and the whole corps, I had another most
gratifying duty to perform ; and requesting the Major to
form a square, facing inwards, I presented a sword to
Subadar-Major Dowd Khaun, with an appropriate speech
in Hindoostanee, explaining that it was the reward of
long and faithful services, and particularly of distinguished
gallantry during the late campaign at Rangoon ; and con-
cluded by expressing my own delight at thus being the
Agent of Government on such an occasion, to distinguish

1>S"2H.J ri;minis('i:n(:i:s. 339

an Ollicer of the first Native corps 1 ever served with, and
at tlie close of my si-rviee with tlieni ; having rdready
taken my passage to Knoland. The old man was deeply
gratified, and expressed himself with great energy ; the
whole corps presented arms, and the ceremony ended.
Tiiere is no service in the world like this, for rewarding the
Natives, and as it were the lower orders of their army.

*' I now, for the last time, returned to my ou n station at
Belgaum, where I had to work double titles, reviewins: the
corps, preparing for my own departure, and for the recep-
tion of Sir John Malcolm, the Governor of Bombay, who
was then on a tour, and to whom I had abeiuly sent a
squadron of cavalry as an escort."

SIR JOHN MALCOLM.
At seven o'clock on the 3rd of December, the Governor
arrived, when he was received with every honour my means
could afford, and delighted every body with his kindness
and affability. lie had sixteen gentlemen in his suite, and
his camp was pitched on a rising spot near the Kedgah
Tope, where he had the most superb canvas habitation I
ever beheld. A large party breakfasted with him at nine,
and at noon he came into the fort, and called u])on all the
ladies : held a Native Durbar, attended by many Native
Chiefs at two o'clock ; and entertained a large party at
dinner at half-past three. In a word, he proved the same
honest John Malcolm I knew twenty-five years ao-o, in
General Wellesley's army. All the fire, strength, and ac-
tivity of youth, with those abilities which enable him to
transact his business in less time tii:iii most other men

340 MILITARY [A.D.

would take to consider about it. This enables him to ap-
pear in company to far greater advantage ; not the mere
abstracted man of business, but the cheerful and enter-
taining companion. We spent a week in a round of public
parties, and when he set out for Colapoor, his departure
threw a damp over our little society, not easily overcome.
My own abdication of military controul followed imme-
diately after; and, delivering over the command of the
Dooab force to Lieutenant-colonel Sir Edmund Kingston
Williams, of His Majesty's 41st regiment, the next senior
officer, on the 10th of January 1829, I left Belgaum for ever.

CABO.

Setting out in palanquins, with posted bearers, we ran
out to the foot of the Ram Ghaut the first day ; to Assan-
warrie, fifty-six miles from Belgaum, on the evening of the
11th; where, sleeping at night, we embarked the next
morning in a capital boat, with a good awning, at day-
light, and running down a beautiful river, reached the old
English hospital, at Cabo, three miles beyond Goa, at
eight, A. M. Here, in a beautiful spot, commanding a most
enchanting landscape, we waited the arrival of the Recover^/,
Captain H. Chapman, from Bombay, which taking place
on the 14th of January, we embarked the same morning.

It is not to be supposed that after so long a residence in
the East, and after passing the best and happiest part of
my life there, the parting from so many valuable and
esteemed friends, and quitting a country so long and so com-
pletely my home, could be accomplished without a pang,
much easier felt than expressed. It had occupied my

1829.] RRMINISCKNCKS. 34 1

thoughts by day and my dreams by night, for years be-
fore it actually took place ; and painful as the se[)aration
was, yet it's feelings were soon drowned in the pleasant
prospect of once more beholding my dear native land, and
of again embracing- those many tender ties who were there
awaiting onr return. I must, however, do India the jus-
tice to say, that it possesses many advantages, and is
certainly an excellent country for poor men, particularly
soldiers of fortune ; and let me add also, that the Com-
pany's service in the East, is the best in the world. I have
liad my rubs and annoyances in it; but they cannot alter
my opinion, or induce me, from jirivate feelings, to with-
hold a just tribute, where I think it is due.

CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

On Wednesday, the 11th of March, at day-light, we
were gratified with the news of land in sight. At eiglit,
A. M., we passed Cape LaguUus, and at noon, were
twenty miles east of the Cape of Good Hope, going ten
knots an hour; but still too late to get in that evening.
Getting occasionally most violent puffs from the land, we
had a most trying night, and much dilKculty to keep in
the offing till day-light.

On Thursday, March 12th, we were working in all the
morning, with the wind in our teeth ; at eight, A. M.,
carried away our main-yard, and were obliged to anchor
outside of all the other ships, but still only a couple of
miles from the shore. The entrance to Table Bay is ex-
tremely difficult from the eastward, as the wind which
brings you to the Cape is then directly opposite; whilst

342 MU-ITARY [A.D.

on the European side, the approach is quite easy. We
found a great number of ships of all nations in the Bay,
though the only one from India was the Broxhournbimj.
An eight-and-tvventy-gun frigate attracted our attention,
being an uncommonly line-looking ship ; and, at eight
o'clock, when all vessels hoist their colours, we discovered
that she was Dutch, the Netherina from Amsterdam,
bound to Batavia, having a Governor-general, some troops,
and a band of music, on board. They arrived only three
or four days before us, and, saluting the fort, fired five
guns loaded with ball, which fortunately did no damage,
though they not a little astonished every one in the range ;
and then, as if these five guns could not be carefully re-
loaded with blank cartridges, they ceased altogether,
waited while an apology was sent on shore, and then re-
commenced their salute, de novo. How a man-of-war
could make such a mistake in time of peace is most sur-
prising. There were three or four dismasted ships in the
Bay, and some almost wrecks, having suffered lately to
the eastward of the Cape ; and we learned that the
Woodford, Captain Milbank, was totally lost at sea, four
hundred and fifty miles from Madagascar, the Captain,
passengers, and crew being saved almost by miracle.

The first appearance of Cape Town from the Bay is not
at all prepossessing ; a lofty, barren mountain rising gra-
dually from the sea-side, with an awkward-looking white-
washed town at the foot of it. On approaching it, how-
ever, unhke Madeira, it rapidly improves, and presents a
lar^e, well-built place, very much resembling many sea-
port towns in Europe, particularly in Scotland. It is

1829.] ri:minis(i:n<;i:s. AAA

certainly any tliiiii; but, r('<j;iilai'. ;uul the str(>cts are in
ocneral narrow, and run in all directions. Tiie lull com-
pletely excluding all light airs from the south-westward,
renders the place excessively close and sultry ; the roofs
are all flat, on account of the heavy south-easters whicli
blow occasionally from the mountains, and the diflerence be-
tween the atmosphere of tlie town and it's environs is most
astonishing. You no sooner get outside, in any direction
clear of the hill, than you experience a delightful European
climate, and meet witii every tree and shrub which Europe
produces. The landing is defended by several trifling
batteries, and one square work called the Castle ; but they
are all insignificant in the present day. The town appears
to have more trades-people's houses and shops than gentle-
men's habitations in it; and every street has nmiierous
signs, exhibited by the various wholesale and retail venders
of every commodity. There are, certainly, some handsome
buildings in the place, mingled with the baser sort in
true republican order. There are two large Churches, in
which the service of both nations is regularly performed
every Sunday ; the Dutch first, and the English afterwards.
We went to the nearest, an extensive, clean, and respect-
able building ; and, at eleven, A. M., met a very full con-
gregation of the former retiring, to make way for us. I
should say from twelve to fifteen hundred ; and one very
extraordinary young woman particularly attracted my at-
tention, e)t passant, being beautifully formed, with a lovely
feminine countenance, and whiskers of dark brown hair,
half an inch long, upon her upper lip. She really had a
soft, interesting face, in spite of her mustac/iios, which.

344 MILITARY [A.D.

though so very remarkable, added much to her appearance.
The Enghsh congregation filled the entire Church, which
was a very large square inside, and appeared to me, from
it's novel shape, capable of containing a greater number
than the same space would do in any other form.

On Saturday, a party of us set out in two carriages
and four to visit the famous gardens of Constantia ; and
on the way paid our respects to the Governor, Sir Lowry
Cole, who received us with much politeness. We then
proceeded to a Hotel of George's, called the Half-way
House, with a large garden attached to it, in which we
took a walk ; plucked various fruit from the trees, had
some refreshment, and then set forward again. I remarked
that most of the hedges were planted with quince bushes,
the fruit of which was uncommonly large ; and we found
one pear-tree with unripe fruit of such magnitude that we
brought away several ; and mine, which lasted till nearly
our arrival in England, measured fourteen inches in cir-
cumference, and stood five inches high.

CONSTANTIA.
This garden is well worth going thirteen miles to see.
The road, which is generally good, passes through a beau-
tiful country, and by many delightful rural habitations;
which are here, as in England, scattered all over the
plains ; though I have seen nothing elsewhere to rival
Constantia in neatness and picturesque beauty. The
house is uncommonly clean, and well furnished ; and the
gardens are laid out in squares, with walks and myrtle
hedges on both sides. It is situated at the foot of a hill,

1829.J itr.MiNistiF.NrF.s. 345

liaving a grove of chesnut-trccs at the upper cxtrcnuty ;
and while we were walking round, admiring the many in-
viting fruit-trees, covered with apples, peaches, pears,
medlars, apricots, &c., and small dwarfish bushes, only
three or four feet hioh, bendins: with rich clusters of
purple graj)es ; the gentleman of the house had ordered a
cold collation to be prepared for us ; and leading us into his
extensive warehouse, insisted on our tasting in succession
the red and white Constantia, Frontignac, Pontac, and
Steine ; the latter a very light wine, and only half the value
of Constantia. Indeed, so extremely civil and obliging
was he to us, that before our departure a few of the
Benedicts of the party purchased some twenty pounds'
worth each, of the first sort, for home consumption. I re-
marked that the wine was kept in immense butts ; I
should suppose containing a dozen of pipes each. We
then adjourned to the dwelling-house, and having had a
long walk in the keen air, enjoyed a delicious repast of the
finest fruit, just plucked from the trees, with wine of the
same produce ; and when obliged to take our departure, it
was with real regret we left this delightful retreat. Our
stay at the Cape being so limited, we had no opportunity
of seeing much of the interior ; but from our own observ-
ations and the information of others, I have drawn this
conclusion, that the climate of the country, even ten miles
from Cape Town, is a happy medium between that of
England and the East Indies, and the nights delightfully
cool ; whilst in the town we never enjoyed one night's rest,
from the closeness of the atmosphere, and the attacks of
myriads of musquitos ; as well as of an inmate a thousand

346 MILITARY [A.D.

times worse, too generally to be found in Dutch houses,
both here and in the East. Embarking again on the 1 7 th of
March, we sailed the same night ; made the land on the 1 1th
of May, and landed safely at Falmouth the next evening.

Here ray extracts terminate ; and it remains for me only
to mention in general terms the delight I felt, and which
all East Indians must feel, on once more seeing that shore so
dear to them; the favoured, the happy land of Britain ; even
after a voyage the most prosperous, in a capital sea-boat,
and with a Commander whose hospitality, liberality, and
kindness are seldom equalled, and could not be excelled.

I have throughout endeavoured to be as concise as
possible, that I might not exhaust my reader's patience.
And if I have any where inadvertently introduced my own
history, I must plead in excuse the private nature of the
materials from which this work has actually been compiled,
without any kind of assistance from men or books, in the
course of a few months ; and the anxiety by which I have
been impelled, since landing, to give immediate publicity
to a plain and unpremeditated narrative, although entirely
free from politics, at the moment when our Eastern posses-
sions are made the subject of general enquiry and animad-
version. The more especially when so many disappointed
and interested individuals are misleading the minds of the
public, on a question of such vital importance, not merely
to that Company, which has so long, so judiciously, and so
exclusively managed those valuable possessions, but to the
millions of inhabitants, now happy under their just, con-
ciliating, and liberal controul, who would so materially
suffer by any change of masters ; and I think I may con-

1829.]

REMINISCRNCKS.

347

fideutly venture to add, to the nation at lar<;('. I am no
partizan, and I believe few of my fellow-servants in India
have had less reason to be individually pleased witli the
treatment they have experienced, in a long period of, I
trust, faithful and zealous, if nottlistinguished service; but
I cannot, on that account, witldiold my testimony to the
general sound policy and justice witli whicii that liody
lias so completely subjugated, and continues to rule a ter-
ritory as diversified in it's interests, as it is almost un-
limited in it's extent.

Littlewoiiil anil Co