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About Google Book Search Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web at |http : //books . google . com/ THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESENTED BY PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AKD MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID r Digitized by Google Digitized by Google DEAN INDIAN OCEAN DIRECTORY. THE SEAMAN'S GUIDE TO THE NAVIGATION OF THE INDIAN OCEAN AND CHINA SEA; INCLUDING A DESCRIPTION OF THE WINDS, STORMS, TIDES, CURRENTS, «&C. ; SAlUOfQ DiRscnoMs; a full account of all the islands; with notes on MAKING PASSAOES DXmiNO THE DIFFERENT SEASONS. WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS, CHARTS AND PLANS. By W, H. ROSSER, and J. F. IMRAY, F.R.G.S. LONDON E.: JAMES IMRAY AND SON, CHIBT PUBLI8HBB8 AND NAUTICAL B00K8KLLERS, MINORIBS AND TOYTER HILL. 1867. Digitized by Google 'i'^K* Unless othebwisb expbbssed thb Beabinos abb all Magnetic; AND THE Distances abb in Nautical miles. Digitized by Google CONTENTS- PART L XOTBS ON THE PHYSICAL GEOGBAPHY OP THE INDIAN OCEAN IN ITS APPLICATION TO NAVIGATION. CHAPTER I. urmoDucroBT. The Indkn Octan described, 1-2. CHAPTER IL OKNSHAL BEMABK8 ON THE WDTDS AND 8BAS0NB. Winde representing tiie various Begions of the Gbbe, 3 1 Theory of the Winds, 3 ; Maviry's Theory, 6; Dove's Theory, 5 ; Trade region in the Atlantic, 12; Trade- winds in the Pacific, 17 ; Winds of the Indian Ocean, General Remarks, 19 ; Mooaoons, 19 ; Summary of Winds in the Monsoon Region, 21 ; the Seasons of the Monsoon Region^ 22 1 Winds and Calms in the Indian Ocean, 22. CHAPTER III. WINDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. The Wind B«g]Mu» Indian Oaean, dassified, 28 ; Explanation of the Chart Diagrams of the Wmds, 24 ; Region of the N. W. Passage Winds, 24 ; S.E. Trade-wind, 25 ; Winds off the Cape and the Eastern Coast of South Africa, 25; Winds of the Senllien Spring in the Western Indian Ocean, 29; the Sonthem Sammer Winds, W. Indian Ocean, 82 ; the Sonthem Autumn Winds, W. Indian Ocean, 85 ; ^ Boatbam Winter Winds ip the W. Indian Ocean, 38 ; Winds of Central and taiAiiiu Indian Ocean, in Spring, 48, in Sammer, 45, in Autumn, 47, in Winter, 49 ; Vmy on the Uonaoons, 50; Meldrum's Meteoiologieal Journal of the Indian i(far]Iaidi,1868),58. Digitized by L:.0 Ogle ' ^3288 Wi3kt ▼i CONTENTS* CHAPTER IV. WINDS ALONG THIS OOA0T OF THB INDIAN OOKAN. South Africa, 60; Table Bay, 69; False aiid Simon's Bay, 69; Mossel Baj, 70 ; Algott Bay, 70 ; Port Natal, 70 ; Delagoa Bay,71 ; Mozambique Chamiel, and from C. Corrientea to the Equator, 71 ; Zanzibar, 71 ; Equator to Guardafui, 72 ; East Coast, Madagawar, 72; Reunion, 73; Mauritius, 74; Bodiignes, 74; Gul of Aden, 76 ; Bed Sea, 76 ; S.E. Coast of Arabia, 80; Gulf of 'Omman, 83 ; Persian Gulf, 83; Bombay and coast to westward, 86; West Coast, Hindostan, 86 ; Laocadivh Islands, 87 ; Maldivh Islands, 87 ; Ceylon, 87 ; Gulf of Manaar, ^ ; Bay of Palk, 88 ; Bay of Bengal, 88 ; Weather on the Coromandel coast, 89; Head of Bay of Bengal, 92 ; Gales in the Bay, 93 ; Martaban and Tenaaserim, Andaman and Nicobar, 94; Straits of Malacca, 94; Sumatra, W. Coast, 95 ; Sunda St., 96 ; Snnda Strait to Timor Island, 96 ; S. Coast of Jara, Snmbawa, Ac, 96 ; N.W. side Timor Island, 97 ; between the Indian Archipelago and Anstralia, 97 ; Java Sea, 97 ; Banka, Gaspar, and Carimata Straits, 100 ; Borneo, 160; Celebes, 101; Macassar Straits and Molucca Passage, 101 ; Seas of Celebes aad^ulu, 102; New Guinea, W. Coast, 102; Molucca Islands, &c., 102 ; Arafura 19«a, 102 ; General Remarks on the Malay Archipelago, 103 ; Winds in the China 9m, 104; Malacca, 106? between Pulo-Timoan and Pnlo-Condore, 106; Gulf of Bbm, 106; Cambodia, 106; Coast from Siam to Cape Padaran, 107; Tong- Quin, 107 ; Hainan and South Coast of China, 107 ; Canton River to the Chusan Islands, 107; Formosa Channel, 108; Filippines, 108; Palawan, 108; Japan, 109 ; Tsngar Strait, 110 ; Ladrones, or Mariana Islands, 110. AUSTEAIXA AND TASMANIA. West and South Coasts of Australia, 111; Boss Strait, 112; Tasmania, 112; Ans' tralia, East Coast, 112; Torres Stniits and Coral Sea, 113; Sydney, 113; Winds of New Zealand, 116. CHAPTER V. ON THE USE AND APPUOATION Of XETBOBOLOOIOAL tNSTBUlOSNTS. Barometer, Thermometer, and Hygrometer— their Connexion with the law of Gyration, 123; Mean Movements of Meteorological Instruments, 124; Oscilla- tions of Barometer, Thermometer, Ac., 126 ; Position of the Barometer in a Ship, 126; Mean Height of the Barometer in the Northern and Southern Hemispheres, 127, 129; Clotids and their Variations, 129; Beaufort's Notation of Wind and Weather, 134 ; Table showing the Force and Telocity of the Wind, 136 ; Moon's Influence on the Weatheri 136. ^-^^-^^^ ^^ LjOOQIC CONtBlJTg. vii CHAPTER VI. HUBKtCANES OB CTCLORSS, AND THE LAW OF SmOBMS. ReroWing Storms, 143 ; Veering of the Wind-Tane, 144 ; the Bearing of the Stonn's Centre, 144; Rotatory and Progressive Motions of Hurricanes, 146; on the Use of a Bsrometer in a Harricane or Cyclone, 147 ; Meteorological Signs preceding a Hurricane, 148; the Storm Wave, 150; Rules for Trimming a Ship in a Hurricane, 160 ; Hurricanes and Weather in the Indian Ocean, 162 ; Hurricane Seasons in the different Oceans, 187 ; Cyclones in the Hoogly, 189. CHAPTER VIL TIDES OF THE INDIAK OOEAV, CHINA SEA, AMD WESTERN PACIFIC. To find the Time of High Water, 192 ; Tide-Uhle, 193. CHAPTER VIII. CCIlRinTS IK THE INDIAN OCEAN, CHINA SEA, AND WESTERN PAdFIC. Sketch of Oceanic Currents, 206; Currents of the Indian Ocean, 210; Equatorial Current, 210 ; Mozambique Current, 211 ; Counter- cun^nts round Madagascar, 211 ; Agulhas Current, 212 ; Counter-current of the South Indian Ocean, 213 ; Australian Current, 217; Arabian Sea, 217; Gulf of Aden, 218; Red Sea, 219 ; Penian Gulf, 222 ; West Coast, Hindostan, 223 ; LaccadtThs and Maldivhi^, 223; Gulf of Manaar, 224; Currents round Ceylon, 224; Bay of Bengal, 226; Malacca Strait, 226; West Coast Sumatra, 226; Sunda Strait, 226; Currents of the Bay of Bengal during the S.W. Monsoon, 227; Indian Archipelago, S. of the Equator, 231; Java Sea, 231; Caspar, Carimata, and Macassar Straits, 231; Celebes, Sulu, and Arafura Sea, 231; Banda Sea and Molucca Channels, 231; Australia, N.W. Coast, 232; Currents in the China Sea during the N.E. and S.W. Monsoons, 232; Palawan Passage, 233; Gulf of SiAm, 233; China Coast, 234; Pescadores, 234 ; Currents of W. Pacific, 234; Equa- torial Currents, 234; Knxo-Siwo, or Japan Stream, 235 ; Notes on the Current Charts, 241. CHAPTER IX. Ice and Icebergs in the Southern Indian Ocean, 241-254. CHAPTER X, Ob the Specific Qrwity and Temperature of the Water of the Indian Ocean, 254 ; flpeeific Cbavity and Temperature of each Square of Ten Degrees in the Indian Ombi, 256 ; Summary, 269 ; Spedfic Gravity and Temperature of each Square «C Ten Dqpms in the China Sea, 260; Saltness of the Ocea^^.^^.^ LjOOQIC TiH CbNTBNTS. CHAPTER XI. Deep-sea Soundings in the Indian Ocean, 261-2d3. CHAPTER XII. Whaling Grounds in the Pacific, Atlantic, and Indian Oceans, 26^^3. CHAPTER XIII. On the Magnetism of Iron Ships, *^e *^® eastern extremity of the peninsula known as cape Aden. It shows 9, fixed light at 244 feet above the sea, visible 20 miles. Its geograpliical pootion is lat. 12** 45' 28" N., long. 46** 4' E. It is of service chiefly to vessels sfiproacbing Aden from eastward ; those westward of the port, can see it only when it is open southward of Bas Tye. Page 888. Digitized by Google INDIAN OCEAN DIRECTORY. -The following instractions for approaching Karachi Harbour were issued by Mr. E. Gn.EB, Master- Attendant at the Port, July Ist, 1866 : — The lighthouse on Manora Point is in lat. 24** 47' 21" N., long. 66^ 58' 15" E. The light ib fixed, at 119 feet above the sea level, and visible from a distance of about 17 miles in clear weather, but only 7 to 9 miles in the hazy weather prevalent during the South-west Monsoon. It is high water on the days of full and change of the moon, at lOh. dOm. ; the rise and fall on ordinary spring tides is 9 feet 6 inches. D«ptb on the Bar. — ^The depth of water on the bar during the South-west Monsoon season (May to September) is at springs 22 to 28 feet 6 inches, at neaps 19 to 18 feet ; — during the £lne season (October to April) it is at springs 20 to 21 feet 6 inches, at neaps 10 to 18 feet. Ships may load from September 15ih to April 15th (the bar being generally smooth) — spring tides 20 feet, neap tides 18 feet. From April 15th to the end of May ; from September 16th to the 80th ; periods before and after the South-west Monsoon — spring tides 18 feet 6 inches, neap tides 17 feet 6 inches. From June 1st to the middle of September, with the average weather in the South-west Monsoon — spring tides 17 feet, neap tides, 15 feet. There are days during this Monsoon when the sea on the bar is so heavy that ships at the above draft cannot with safety cross, and it is advisable not to send out vessels of above 600 tons burthen during the bad weather season. Approaehlas the Fort. — ^At all seasons, if coming from southward, the coast of Sind, from the parallel of 23'' 30' N., should not be approached under 14 fathoms. This line of soundings will carry a ship from 7 to 8 miles ofif the dangerous banks which extend from the Hujamree, Eedewarry, and Kokowany mouths of the Indus river to a distance of 7 miles, showing in several places 10 fathoms on their extreme edge. The set of the tides and currents being very uncertain, the coast low throughout, and barely visible from the outer edge of the banks in clear weather, too much attention cannot be paid to the lead in passing these banks.* Ras Muari (or cape Monze), distant 18 miles W. i N. from the western entrance to Karachi, is high and bold of approach. Ships during the South-west Monsoon season should make this headland, running eastward for Manora point, keeping it (Manora point) on any bearing to the north of East. Manora point forming the west side of Karachi harbour, is 100 feet in height, and can be approached to within i a mile on any bearing from North to East, with 5 fathoms water ; on this point stands the Hghthouse and signal station. As at certain times of tide pilots cannot get off, attention should be given to all directions signalled from the shore. * Note. — Since the beginning of 1857, the Admiral Boxer has been totally lost on the Indus banks. The Thomas Campbell and Augusta^ with the steamer Pioneer, have grounded on them, but were eventually floated off. Two large Troop Steamers have also, in the same period, touched on them. Digitized by Google INDIAN OCEAN DIRECTORY. 6 Masters of ships should not, under any circumstances, attempt to enter the poft without a pilot. ABBhoras* la thm Boads. — June to the middle of September. Ships should not on any account anchor, hut standoff and on, keeping the lighthouse hearing from N. by E. to N.E., 1 to 2 miles distant, until boarded by a pilot, or directed by signaL September 16th tiUthe end of March. The anchorage is with the lighthouse beaiing N. by £. to N.N.E. distant 1 mile, in 7 feithoms. April and May. The anchorage is with the lighthouse bearing N.N.E. to N.E. distant H miles, in 8 fathoms. Pages 398-407. oiTLr or GABBBAT, — The fixed light on Perim island is from a white stone building 78 feet high ; it is 128 feet above the sea, and visible 17 miles. Its geographical position is lat. 2V 85' 64" N., long. 72° 23' 88" E. The fixed light at Tapti is on a column 01 feet high, and painted in red and white bands, erected on the north side of the river, in lat. 2V 6' N., long. 72' 38' £. It is at 100 feet above the sea, and visible from an o&ng of about 16 miks. Plage 407. WomBJLTm — ^A lighthouse consisting of an octagonal tower on the centre of a flat roof house has been erected on Ehundari island, south of Bombay harbour. It shows A fixed light at 161 feet above the sea, visible from all parts of the sea horizon at the distance of 20 miles. Its geographical position is lat. IS" 42' 20" N., bug. 72" 48' 60" E. Page 408. The Outer lightvessel now shows a red light, revolving in 20 seconds. Pftge410. The fftirway buoy has been removed. Page 410. mAWA QXamx, at about 115 miles southward from Bombay. A red fixed b^t is shown here from the south-west bastion of an old fort ; it is 800 feet above the sea and said to be visible from the distance of 18 miles. Its geographical position is lat. 16'' 59' 30" N., long. 73** 15' 47" E. At Batna Ghiri there are three anchoring grounds : — The outer anchorage for fiufing vessels ; the outer anchorage for steamers ; and the inner anchorage for stmners during the fair season only. Vessels anchoring at the outer roadstead should do so in 8 fathoms, at a little more than a mile from the lighthouse, with the lighthouse bearing N. 59'' 4' E. or K£. by E. ^ E. ; Adawlut building, (a very large house on the hill bordering the ereek to the North), N. SV 33' E. or E. i N. ; and the white tomb, (near the beach southward of the creek), S. 75'' 56' E. or E. by S. i S. Steamers mftlring the port at the beginning or close of the South-west Monsoon shoold anchor in 6^ fathoms with the lighthouse bearing North and the Adswhit building E.N.E. The inner anchorage is only available for steamers during the fair season. ^ends should anchor in not less than 4 fathoms with the lighthouse bearing ^ W. I N. and the Adawlut building E. by N. i N. ;— that position will place *keBi at about 1200 yards from the landing place and 700 yards from the edge of * odge of rocks running out from the beach in front of the custom-house. Digitized by Google 6 INDIAN OCEAN DIRECTORY. The port of Ratna Ghiri does not afford the least shelter to vessels during the South-west Monsoon, but a vessel m distress would, in a measure, be sheltered by anchoring in 5 fathoms after rounding the north point of Meria Donghur, a hill S miles northward from the lighthouse. The bay between Meria Donghur and the lighthouse hill does not afford any shelter, but, oti the contrary, is open to tlie full force of tlie Monsoon. Page 413. mBDAMBXam bat.—- The/x^el light on the summit of the outer Oyster rock is at 205 feet above the sea, and visible from the distance of 25 miles. Page 414. I, — ^We believe that this light is now coloured red. Page 416. OAXZCnrr. — ^A black buoy has been moored off this port in 4 fathoms, to mark the inner edge of the best anchorage ; it lies with the lighthouse bearing E. f S., and Conolly hill N.E. by N. To avoid dangers when passing to or from south- ward and in the vicinity of Cooty reef, great care should be taken not to bring the buoy westward of North, as there are several shoal patches of rocky ground close inside of that bearing (1869). Page 416. OOOBZV, — The new lighthouse is of white stone and 89 feet high ; it shows a fixed light at 95 feet above the sea, visible 14 miles. Its geographical position is lat. 9^ 57' 50" N., long. 76^ 14' 40" E. The light referred to in the text has been discontinued. The best anchorage in the roadstead is in 5^ to 6j^ fathoms, soft ground, at from 2 to 2i miles from the shore, in the direction of W. f S. to W. by N. from the lighthouse. (1868). Umits of tlie Fort. — The limits of the Port are as follows : To the North. — The boundary pillar, 1 mile north of the Northern point of the entrance to the harbour or back water. To the South. — The boundary pillar, 3 miles south of the Southern point of the entrance to the back water. The sea shores between them to within 50 yards of high water mark, spring tides. To the Ecut. — The harbour and back water with all creeks and channels leading thereto, that may be within the Indian Government territories, and so much of the shores thereof, whether of the main land, or the islands, as are within 50 yards of high water mark, spring tides. To the West. — The space enclosed by two lines, running due West from the boundary pillars, to 9 fathoms water. Anelioniso. — The best anchorage in the roads is with the following bearings ; flag-staff E. i N. to E.N.E. in 5^ to 6i fathoms, soft ground, about 2 to 2i miles off shore. All post office packets and letters are to be delivered to the post office peon who is sent for them. Commanders are required to report themselves in person on la.n<1ing at the master attendant's office, and to bring with them the ship's register, with two lists of the officers, ship's company, and passengers ; and no vessel will be admitted to entry at the custom house, i^ithout producing a certificate from the master atten- dant that the pro\'isions of this article have been comphed with. Digitized by Google INDIAN OCEAN DIRECTORY. 7 Commanders are also required, previous to clearing out, to deliver to the master attendant two lists of the officers, crew and passengers proceeding by the vessel, together with notification of all casualties which may have occurred during her stay in port, whether by death, discharge, or desertion. No vessel will be granted port clearance until the production of a certificate from the master attendant that the port roles have been complied with. Commanders requiring a pilot to enter the inner harbour are to hoist the union jack at the fore royal mast-head. Applications for pilots inwards and outwards are to be made to the master attendant in writing. No cargo is to be landed in ship's boats under a penalty of 50 rupees and con- fiscation of the boat. No ballast is to be thrown overboard in less than 9 fathoms ; nor is any to be discharged on the beach or elsewhere from which it would be liable to be washed into the port. The penalty for infringing this rule is 200 rupees. Commanders of vessels having more than SOlbs. of gunpowder or other com- bustibles on board are, under a penalty of 200 rupees for default, to report the same to the conservator who will arrange, if necessary, for landing and storing the excess. When the surf is so high as to render communication with the shore dangerous, a red and white chequered flag will be hoisted at the master attendant's flag-staff. When the surf is impassable the first distinguishing pennant will be displayed under that flag. Should a boat be urgently required during the night, three lights should be hoisted horizontally ; and in case of danger from fire or other causes, blue lights should be burnt, and guns fired. No boats are to be detained alongside after 6h. p.m. — The detention of a boat during the day for more than three hours will entail double hire. Commanders and officers are particularly requested to abstain from illusing boatmen or other natives. All complaints will be promptly inquired into. No vessel of 200 tons and upwards is to be moved in the inner harbour without having a pilot or the conservator on board; and no vessel exceeding 100 tons and less t^^" 200 tons is to be moved without a pilot except under the authority of the eonservator, under penalty in each case of 100 rupees. All vessels in the inner harbour shall have their jib and driver booms rigged in, and their yards and top-masts struck, unless otherwise permitted by the conser- vator. All projections from the ship's sides must be removed. An vessels moored in the stream shall keep a clear hawse. No vessels anchored between the buoys and the inner harbour shall have lights exhibited aloft or above the deck. No warps are to be made fast to the fairway buoys. A free passage of half a cable's length or 120 yards shall be kept between the wharres, jetties, landing-places, and dockyards, and the position of the vessels moored in the inner harbour. Schedules of the boat hire, pilot and other charges of the port are hereto annexed. Digitized by Google 8 INDIAN OCEAN DIRECTORY. Schedule A. — Maximum rate of boat hire. QuiLON Boats. B8. A. p. Ordinary trip to the Roads 14 Beyond 7 fSathoms 1 12 Return trip from the Roads either with cargo or hallast 12 Transhipment in the Roads 12 Ordinary trip at night 2 8 Foul weather trip 2 8 Cargo Dhonies. Ordinary trip to the Roads 2 8 Beyond 7 fathoms 3 4 Return trip from the Roads either with cargo or ballast 14 Transhipment in the Roads 14 Ordinary trip at night 5 Foul weather trip 4 Schedule B. PUotagefor yessebfrom 600 to 800 tons and upward8(inward or outward) 50 40 80 25 15 10 For the use of the anchor boat from 8h. a.m. to sunset, per diem 20 For the use of a hawser (besides making good any injury it may sus- tain per diem 5 Transporting a vessel from one position to another after she has been moored : of 800 tons and upwards 7 Schedule D. — Scale of fees for measuring vessels. Under 50 tons Rs, 7 50 tons and under 100 tons. „ 11 100 tons and under 150 tons ^. „ 15 150 tons and under 200 tons „ 19 200 tons and under 250 tons , 28 250 tons and under 800 tons „ 27 800 tons and upwards „ SO MASMAMMMb. — ^A first class buoy, painted red, is moored in 18 feet water, soft bottom, with the Narrakel flagstaff bearing E. by S. } S. The best anchorage in the South- west Monsoon is with the buoy bearing E. to E.S.E., in from 8i to 4^ fathoms. Vessels of small draft, from 12 to 15 feet, can anchor close to the buoy. The buoy will remain in position throughout the South-west Monsoon, and is seen from a distance of about 8 miles. Do. do. „ 400 to 600 »• Do. do. „ 200to400 >» Do. do. „ 100 to 200 it Do, do. „ 50 to 100 »» Do. do. » 50 It Schedule C. Digitized by Google INDIAN OCEAN DIRECTORY. 9 The Master Attendant's office, which has been recently erected a little to the ttortliward of the flag8ta£f, will be clearly seen from the offing as a white object, tiA form a good guide to ships running in for the roads. (May 7th, 1867), Pfiiges 417-419. eiAVB COMOBHr. — A lighthouse is being erected on this cape. Pages 422 and 442. ASmAMPATJLK is in kt. 10^ 20' N.» not 12'' 20' N. as in the text. Page 447. TCJMT OAUBKBBB.— The land at this point has suffered so much from the sea, that the beacon upon it is now surrounded by water. At about a mile inshore is a flagstaff. The two pagodas in lat. 10° 22^' N. bear West, when in hne. Pftge 448. jfBajJPATAM ■iar^AT. is a small patch of about a mile in extent, and with only 3 fathoms upon it; it is in lat. 10° 36' N., long. 79** 55' E., and consequently 3} miles from the beach. From it a narrow 4-fathom tongue extends 4^ miles dne North, iu a direction parallel to the coast ; and also extends southward from it imtQ at last it joins the flats off point Calimere. At a mile eastward from it the depth is 7 feithoms, and immediately westward of it 5 fathoms. As the channel between this shoal and the shore is shallow for a distance of two miles from the land, vessels approaching Negapatam from southward should keep eastward of it, in a depth of not less than 8 jGathoms. Page448. oounoow SBOAZi, in lat. ll^" 27' N., consists of a sandy flat at' the mouth of the Coleroon riyer. It projects from the shore about 1} miles, and at a mile eastward from it is a depth of 7 to 9 fathoms. Page 448. TBXFik&OOB UBSr, in lat 12° 37' N., extends one mile from the land, and is immediately succeeded by a depth of 5 and 6 Hathoms, deepening to 11 and 12 fathoms at 2^ miles from the beach. This reef runs off the coast at the seven Moolivaram pagodas. Page 449. The bank in lat. 12° 26' N., 10 miles from the shore, reported to have been sounded upon by Captain Barclay, does not exsit. The depth in that latitude and at that distance from the shore is 23 to 25 fjAthoms. Page 449. OOCAKAAA. — ^We have been informed that the small ^:i;^ light mentioned as bemg shown at Coeanada to guide vessels to the anchorage, is not yet exhibited. P)ige8 456and460. CBnTTAOOMCl BXVBB. — Two Jlxed lights are now shown on Norman point, a diort distance southward of the entrance to this river, at the respective heights of 88 and 30 feet above the sea, visible about 8 miles. During day, the point may be recognised by a barrel-shaped beacon on a tripod 65 feet high. Vessels making the port should sight the lights on the bearing of about N.E. They should approach them on the bearing of N.E. to E.N.E. and when distant about 8 miles from them, should anchor or wait for a pilot. Page 472. AXTAB. — ^The harbour-master at the port of Akyab has notified that there is no Hght on the western Borongo island, as indicated on recent charts, the light a& the table-land (exhibited experimentally for 12 mouths) having been removed. Digitized by Google 10 INDIAN OCEAN DIRECTORY. This table -land was formed by the tops of trees, a portion of which were cut away to erect the lighthouse ; the table is consequently destroyed, and should now be called the highest part of the western Borongo island. A flagstaff carrying a ball at the mast-head stands on Oyster island. It is 82 feet above the sea-level and bears from the lighthouse on Savage island N. 69° W., distant 21 miles. The Jixed light on Savage island is the only light in the vicinity of the port at present exhibited. (June 80th, 1865). Page 473. KBZSBif A BSOAXi. — A screw pile lighthouse has been erected on the south edge of this shoal, in about latitude 15*" 86^' N., and longitude 05" 85' E. It will exhibit a Jixed light at 55 feet above the sea, visible 13 miles. The purpose of its establishment is to keep vessels off the shoal and clear of the Baragu flats.* Page 481. CBOrA'.BVCXBBB BZVBB. — ^A screw pile lighthouse (the lower part of which is white) has been erected near the high-water mark, at about 2 miles north- eastward from the mouth of the river. It will exhibit a revolving light (attaining its greatest brilliancy every minute) at an altitude sufficient to make it visible at the distance of 18 miles. Its approximate geographical position is lat. 16*" 17' N., long. 96** 13' E.* Page 482. SAiroooir bzvbb. — ^A screw pOe lighthouse erected near Eastern Grove, on the east side of the entrance to the river, is intended to show a Jixed light in the arc from it of South to S.W. by W. | W. (02°). It will show a more intense light over an arc of S"" on each side of the present position of the lightvessel outside the river, the centre of this arc being S.S.W. } W. The approximate position of the lighthouse is lat. 16** 29' N., long. 96* 27*' E.* Vessels from south-westward bound to Rangoon have hitherto been advised to make the coast about China Bockeer river to prevent being driven, by the strong spring tides, on the sands eastward of the mouth of Rangoon river; but it is now particularly recommended that all vessels from southward should strike the coast in lat. 15° 50' N., long. 96° E., where the soundings at low water springs will be 6 fathoms, mud. Thence by making a due N.E. by N. course (calculating for the tides) they cannot miss the entrance. Particular care must be taken not to shoal under 5 fietthoms, low water, and never to go from mud to sand — ^the latter being only found eastward of the Rangoon river. A vessel to the north of lat. 15° 50' N. striking soundings on sand should imme- diately haul to the westward till she gets into 6 fathoms, mud. By strictiy attending to these directions and with the proper use of the lead, no vessel can get into danger on this coast. Page 483. r. — ^The light on Amherst point is discontinued. Page 485. * It iB expected that the arrangements will be saffioiently completed to permit the exhibition of these lights on May 81 st, 1869. When exhibited, the lightressel now moored oatside the entrance to Rangoon river will be removed. Digitized by Google INDIAN OCEAN DIRECTORY. 11 K — The lighthouse on this island shows a fixed light, visible at the distance of 19 miles. Its approximate geographical position is lat. 16** 52' 30" N., long. 97« 86' 30" E., and from it Amherst point bears N. f W. ; the Piitch buoy N. by W. i W. ; and the west point of Kalegouk island S. by E. Tlie arc illuminated is 164i° (from N.N.W. westward to S. J E.) ; the bearing of N.N.W. passes 1^ miles westward of the Patch buoy, off Amherst ; that of S. f E. 1^ miles westward of Kalegouk island. A strip of light ia shown from the Patch buoy eastward as far as Amherst point. Vessels making the light should endeavour to keep it between the bearings of S.E. and N.E„ paying particular attention to the tides, as at springs they run about 5 knots an hour, parallel with the coast. If the land be too closely approached the light will be lost to view, but so long as the light is in sight, they will be in no danger until they are 10 miles northward of it, when they will be in the neighbourhood of the Gk)odwin sands, where the tides set very strong. The anchoring ground in the vicinity of Double island is good, but, on accoimt of the strength of the tides, vessels should avoid as much as possible the risk of anchoring in such deep water. Page 486. VOB.T liOVXB (Xanrlttns). — The red light at Great River bay, and the green light at fort George, Tonnelier island, have both been discontinued. A lightvessel bearing 2^ flashing white light, visible 9 miles, has been moored at the Bell-buoy anchorage. It is in 15 fathoms at a little to the north-westward of the present well-known bell buoy, and from it the extreme of the land to tlie northward bears N.E. by N. ; the extreme of the land to the westward W.S.W. ; and the flagstaff on fort George S.E. ^ S. As the mooring chain of the vessel nxns about 150 fathoms in a N.N.W. direction, care must be taken when anchoring to avoid hooking it. Vessels from northward, after rounding Canonnier point, must be careful not to bring the lighthouse on that point westward of Flat island lighthouse till this lightvessel is seen. They may then steer for the latter on a S.S.W. i W. bearing, and anchor on that bearing at from half a mile to a mile from the light. Vessels from westward may steer for the lightvessel on an E. by N. \ N. bear- ing, and anchor either at half a mile from it on that bearing or fiirther to the northward as may be convenient. The depth at the anchorage is from 12 to 20 fathoms. Pages 528-530. KAWDB BVaBjrzB BAHK (BflCada«aaoar).— This bank situated 6 miles off the east coast of Madagascar, N. 38° E. from Nossy Alana or Plum island, and S. 28** £. frt>m the Mamelles de Natte, has recently been examined by the French steamer PrSgent; the reported sounding of 3} fathoms has not been found, but there are several coral patches with not more than 5 fathoms water, — thus verifying the existence of the bank. (1866). Page 550. TAMQUtUka, JBLAMDB, — These islands were visited in 1867 by M. Lieutard of the French marine. The hill at the north-west end of the largest and northernmost island, according to his observations is in lat. 10° 7' S., long. 51° 18' 14" E. ; the latter is dependent upon the position assigned to St. Paul, Reunion.* Unlbxtanately M. lieutard does not state the longitude of St. Paul, nor his meridian ^stanoe. He had two chronometers, which were timed four days previously at St. Paul. Digitized by Google 12 INDIAN OCEAN DIRECTORY. The north point of the island (near which is the only anchorage possible during south-easterly winds, the prevalent winds yi these parts) is terminated by a reef. Upon this point there is a hill, which is conspicuous from a moderate distance by a white spot in its centre ; this hill resembles an islet when first seen, at the distance of about 8 miles, but a nearer approach shows it to be attached to the north point of the island, and at the same time land more extensive than it will be seen behind the southern reefs. The anchorage is in 8i fathoms at about a mile from the land, in the direction of N.N.W. from the hiU. In this position the south part of the hill will appear in one with the north part of the most northern hill of the south island. When seeking the anchorage either from northward or southward it is for the hill at the north end of the island, that a shipmaster should steer. When it bears S. by E., a course may be shaped for it, until distant about a mile from the land, when the best anchorage in the vicinity of the islands will have been attained. Approaching the anchorage from westward, the hill will be seen in the form of an islet, with a white spot on its north face. Great care is required to give a good berth to the southern reefs and also to keep a good look out for other dangers, because according to Captain Berloim, who has a thorough knowledge of the islands, a bank of 16 to 18 feet exists at about 4i miles W.S.W. from the south-west point of the south reef. The bottom near the Farquahar islands consists generally of sand. A prudent shipmaster would not run for the anchorage at night. The channel into the lagoon formed by the islands and ree& is fronted by a bar, upon which at low tide the depth is only 7 to 10 feet. When running in, it is necessary to get as close to the land as possible to avoid the heads of rocks about the edge of the reef. At high water, the ebb tide in this channel has a strength of about 5 knots. Tides, dc, — ^The tides in frt)nt of the bar have been observes to rise from 3 to 7 feet. The flood flows to the N.E., the ebb to the W.N.W. with a maximum strength of one mile an hour, the wind being south-easterly. The current, which, after passing cape Amber (Madagascar) bifurcates to the West and S.W., attains in the vicinity of these islands a strength of 2 to 4 miles an hour, flowing in a westerly direction. Page 565. 81ITOBBLUB8. — The following observations are from one of the Consular Reports presented to Parliament, April 1868. — They are furnished by the Civil Commissioner of the Seychelles islands, Mr. Swinburne Ward : — Land in and near port Victoria has greatly increased in value. A plot about six miles distant was sold last year for X17 per acre, and I have been ofiered £200 for a portion of land reclaimed from the sea in front of the town to the north of the river St. Louis. Several more acres of very valuable land might be easily reclaimed at no great outlay a little further to the north; and should the Victoria pier be extended to the edge of the reef opposite the Ilot Hodoul, the whole of the space between it and the pier now in ordinary use would soon be filled up by the silt of the sand, and become a most valuable property. The town is fast becoming too small for its annually increasing population, and house rent is more than double what it was four years ago, so that as a speculation the extension of the Victoria pier would answer very well. All vessels trading to this port could Digitized by Google INDIAN OCEAN DIRECTORY. 13 lay alongside it at all tides to discharge their cargoes ; the owners would gladly pay for such an advantage, and the sale of the land reclaimed from the sea would ultinialely recover the whole of the amount expended on the extension of the pier. In all new buildings, masonry work in coral is wholly superseding wood, now becoming very scarce and dear, hardly obtainable, in fact, except upon Felicite and Silhouette islands. Coral is so easy of manipulation that the trade of a mason is very easily acquired here. All ordinary carpenters' tools can be employed when working it, and there is no difficulty about turning it to any pattern required. I take the opportunity while on this subject of drawing attention to the very important fact that the harbour is filling up in many places, and that the coral all round the Seychelles group is growing with an extraordinary rapidity. Taking the original survey of Captain Owen, executed in 1825, the difference between some of his soundings and the existing ones is very large ; more than might have been expected even after so many years. In one spot on the anchorage near St. Ann's ifdand, on the opposite side of the harbour, only 7 fathoms are now found where 14 are marked on the chart. In the inner basin, the triangulation of which was made three years ago by the master of the Orestes, almost on the spot marked as the best and most secure anchorage for vessels of war, and soundings given as 7 fiiihoms, the coral is now within 2 and 2i fathoms of the surface, not water enough for the larger vessels of the East African squadron, such as the Highflyer, Another instance, or rather a series of instances, will be found on the whole bank extending firom Frigate island to Eagle island, the whole of which has much increased, but most markedly when passing half way between Mahe and SQhonette, the ordinary course for ships. In many places, 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10 laihoms only are now found where 39 and 40 are marked on the chart. According to the men who now constantly resort to this shallow portion of the bank to fish, this difference has taken place within the past 4 years, but it probably has only been noticed by them since that date. It is at a distance of 6 miles from Mahe, in the middle of the usual passage for vessels of all classes. Of its actual depth at present I have made certain by personal observation and soundings, but for want of proper instruments I was unable to fix their exact positions on the chart The same increased growth of coral I am informed by the captains of the different trading vessels and of the whalers cruising in these waters is found on all the banks between this and Mauritius. "Coetivy"is in reality very much larger than what it is marked on the chart, and the soundings very much less, 7 fiuhoms only having been obtained for a distance of 20 miles. At this depth in anything like heavy weather, the sea would necessarily break. The " Fortune bssk" has greatly expanded. " Saya de Malha'* is becoming dangerous, and is likely to appear above the surface before many years elapse. It is very important in the interests of navigation that these waters, especially such portions as are frequently crossed, should be re-surveyed. The French charta contain some valuable additions to the English ones, but they are all bued upon Captain Owen's. Of the growth of coral nothing absolutely positive is known beyond the £Eu;t that it requires a substantial basis. The bank between Digitized by Google 14 INDIAN OCEAN DIRECTORY. Frigate and Eagle islands is part of the Seychelles geological range, and probably, therefore, composed of granite, upon which the coralline insect has conunenced its work. This work can be advanced to within six feet of the surface, bat the progress of its advance is very uncertain. Still, the well ascertained growth of more than 20 fathoms, as is the case in the channel between Mahe and Silhouette, supposing the coral to have been growing since the date of Captain Owen's survey, sufficiently denotes the great necessity that exists for fresh soundings being taken. Pages 576-582. AHPAMAir Z8XJiJn>8. — The lighthouse on Table island (one of two islands), Table and Skipper) at the north end of Great Coco island, consists of an iron building 72 feet high ; the light (fixed) is 200 feet above the sea and visible in clear weather from the distance of about 20 miles. Its approximate geographical position ifl lat. 14° 10' 52" N., long. 93° 20' 45" E. Thislight, at the southern limit of the Preparis south channel, forms for vessels passing between tlie gulf of Martaban and the Madras coast, and between Calcutta and the Malacca straits or China, a good point of fresh departure in the South- west Monsoon, while the Alguada reef revolving light, placed at the northern limit of the Preparis north channel, is a good point of fresh departure in the North-east Monsoon. By shaping a course to make either of these lights, the dangers about Preparis island are avoided. Vessels using Preparis channels in the South-west Monsoon, should endeavour to make Cocos light, and in the North-east Monsoon, Alguada light ; powerful steamers between Calcutta and the ports of Pegu, use the latter in both monsoons. Table and Skipper islands are steep-to, with no dangers to seaward ; there is a p8,ssage between them and great Coco island, but its navigation is not safe without a pilot. Page 625. The following Notice relative to the geographical position of the Andaman islands, was issued in March 1866, by Lieut. Col. J. T. Walker, R.E., Superin- tendent of the Great Trogonometrical Survey of India ; — Doubts having been expressed as to the accuracy of the longitudes assigned to the Andaman islands on existing charts, notice is hereby given that the longitude of Chatham island, port Blair, has been recently determined to be 02° 48' E. of Greenwich ; whereas in the chart of the Andaman islands, which is compiled from the surveys of Lieutenant Blair, and Captain Morrsom in 1789 — 90, revised by Lieut. Heathootein 1853, it is assumed to be 92'' 56'. The whole group of islands is probably 18 miles west of the position that has hitherto been accepted. The recent determination of the position of Chatham island is deduced from 202 observations of lunar zenith distances, and 29 culminations observed by Mr. Nicholson, of the Survey Department, with an alt-azimuth instrument, having a vertical circle 36 inches in diameter. They were reduced in the office of the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India. Page 634. AV8TBAULA. (West Coast of). — ^A bank with 20 fathoms water on it has been discovered some 50 miles to the west of Rottnest island, and breakers were said to have been seen in 1364 from the Beaver^ merchant vessel, W. by S. 52 miles from cape Vlaming, the west extreme of Rottnest island. Pages 652-669. The follo^ving information on the current in the neighbourhood of cape Leeuwin Digitized by Google INDIAN OCEAN DIRECTORY. 16 and Swan river, on the west coast of Australia, during the summer months January and February), is extracted from the remark book of Capt. Charles W. HoPK, of H.M.S. Brisk, 1868 :— After ronnding cape Leeuwin a strong set to the E.N.E. was experienced. At 8h. p.m., abreast of cape Naturaliste, 15 miles distant, a course was steered to pass 8 miles to the westward of Rottnest island ; but at daylight Gtoden island was observed on the starboard bow and Rottnest island on the port bow, the ship having been set 20 miles to the E.N.E. during the night. Had the weather been thick, so that the land or Rottnest light could not be distinguished, the ship would have been in a very dangerous position, as the course steered would have led directly on to the ree£s north of Garden island. Pages 232, 652-663. xnra anoBaii 80inn>. — The Jlxed light on Breaksea island is visible by a vessel approaching from south-eastward between Bald head and cape Vancouver (S.W. i S. southward and eastward to E. by N. from the light) ; approaching from south-westnrard, it is first seen for a brief interval over the sinking of Bald Head ridge (S.W. i W from the light). Within the sound it is shown over the horizon (360^), but is masked by Michaelmas island to a small vessel passing through the north channel. This light must not be steered for till it bears N.N.E. } E. from the vessel, to dear Maude and Vancouver reefs. Page 671. 8FBSCBS aiTLF. — The lightvessel moored in 15 feet off the south-west part of Tipara reef, now shows two fixed lights. A red pyramidal-shaped buoy has been placed in 5^ fathoms at low water, off the outer end of the reef which extends nearly a mile, in a N.W. by W. direction from cape Elizabeth, Spencer gulf. The buoy is moored 4 cables length to the westward of the shoalest part of the reef, and in clear weather, from an elevation of 10 feet above the sea level, should be seen from a distance of 4 miles. The bearings from the buoy are given as follows, viz. : — cape Elizabeth E.N.E., and Tipara lightvessel N.N.W. i W. Page 673. CSAFB BOBBA (Kmngmroo Island)* — The following instructions were issued by Gapt. Douglas, President of the Marine Board, Adelaide, in 1866. Captain Leooe, of the ship The Murray, reports that, on his passage from London to Anstralia, at 4h. 80m. a.m., on the 21st of October 1864, running in for cape Borda on an E.N.E. course, with strong S.S.W. winds and thick rainy weather, he saw the land between capes Bedout and Borda, before sighting the light, although, from the course and position (subsequently verified by cross -bearings) he should have seen the light at 2h. a.m., allowing for the state of the weather. At 5h. ajn., after tacldng off the land, cape Borda bore N.E. 10| miles, cape Coaedie S.E. by E. ; thus putting the ship quite within the range of the light (it being visible from N.E. byN. to S.W. by W. round by west) ; it was not seen until some donds cleared off the smnmit of the cape and adjoining land. The Hght is placed 510 feet above the sea level, and in clear weather is visible tt a distance of 30 miles. By Captain Legoe's report, it appears that, during thick or hazy weather, the li^t is occasionally partially obscured ; in such weather, commanders of ships Bhonld exerdfle great caution in approaching the land, even when quite confident Digitized by Google 16 INDIAN OCEAN DIRECTORY. of their position. No safer guide exists in the vicinity of Kangaroo island than the lead, as hy keeping in a depth of not less than 70 fathoms, a ship will be well outside all the dangers off this part of the coast, including the Neptune island group. In fiact, in that depth, a ship will be clear of all danger on any part of the coast of South Australia, as included between the Great Australian bight, and cape Northumberland. During strong S.E. winds, the prevailing easterly current on this part of the coast is checked and diverted to the northward into Spencer gulf, and north- westward along the coast-line ; whilst after S.E. winds, and the wind changing to the northward and westward, the current exhibits an unusual force and sets strongly to the S.E., sometimes at the rate of H knots per hour. Commanders of ships, after a prevalence of S.E. winds, should, on the wind changing to the N.W., be on their guard, as they are liable to be set to the S.E. on approaching the western end of Kangaroo island. Pages 672-682. ADBLAZBB. — The lightvetsel has been removed, and instead of it an iron tower has been erected on piles near the end of South sand, in 7 feet water. It is 66 feet high, and shows a Jixed light at 50 feet above the sea, visible 10 to 12 miles. The navigable channel for large vessels is 70 yards northward of the lighthouse ; the depth in it at present (1868), is 18 feet at low tides, ordinary springs — ^the rise is 8 feet. Approaching Adelaide from south-westward in a heavy ship, endeavour to make the lighthouse on a bearing from N.N.E. to N.E., and carefully avoid bringing it northward of N. by E. to avoid the Wonga shoal, southward of the jetty. The most convenient anchorage (in 5 fathoms, sand) will be found with the light- house bearing N. by E. to N.N.E. ; and the red light on the jetty from E. by S. to E.S.E. Page 686. The Wonga, a sandy shoal, extends in a north-westerly direction from the sand-hills southward of the Semaphore. A bell buoy painted red (shaped like a boat, with a staff and ball) has been placed in 17 feet at low water, on its northern extremity, off the end of the jetty ; it may be seen during day at a distance of 2^ miles. From the buoy the water dioals gradually in a south- easterly direction to the shore. The buoy should be left to the southward and eastward, but small vessels may cross the shoal southward of the buoy in 12 feet water, by bringing the Sema- phore jetty light to bear E. by S. i S., and anchor according to draft of water off the end of the jetty. Large vessels should avoid crossing the shoal southward of the buoy. The best anchorage for large vessels is anywhere northward of the bell buoy, in 4 or 6 fathoms at low water. Vessels waiting for orders will find it convenient to anchor tolerably close to the buoy ; whilst those only waiting for tide to pass the bar, should anchor with the jetty light bearing S.E. Small vessels may anchor inside the bell buoy with the jetty light from E. by S. to E.S.E. It is high water at full and change, at the Outer bar of port Adelaide, at 4h. 30m. ; and the rise is about 8 feet. Tidal signals are shown from the Sema- phore flagstaff on the hill, but as strangers are required to take a pilot, it is unnecessary to describe them here. The signal for a steam-tug is the ensign at Digitized by Google INDIAN OCEAN DIRECTORY. 17 \he fore. A signalman is stationed on the hiH above the inner end of the jetty, \Atttiend to vessels' signals. (1866). Page 685. I (Qfull of 8t. Vincent). — The following instructions for making this port were issued at Adelaide, in September 1866. Yxom port Adelaide outer bar, steer N.W. by W. 1 W., making allowance for tide and leeway. The tides N.W. -ward of the lighthouse are strong; the flood sets over the long spit N.W., and the ebb S.E., attaining at springs a velocity of 2 knots. Keep the above course (N.W. by W. i W.) for 25 miles, to sight a large red buoy with a pyramidal top, surmounted by a triangular head ; this buoy marks the western extremity of the long spit, extending 20 miles to the westward, from the low sandy shore to the northward, and in the vicinity of the Gawler river. The buoy is placed at the south-west and western extremity of the shoal in 19 feet at low water, ordinary springs, in lat. 84** 88' 40" S., long. 138** 7' 40" E., with the western summit of the Hummock range of hills at the head of the gulf, bearing N. 8** W., and mount Lofty, S. 56** 30' E. The coast line on the east side of the Gulf, in the vicinity of the long spit, is veiy low, and cannot be seen from the deck of a small vessel when outside the buoy, unless there be much refraction. The coast on the west side, to the westward of the long spit, is bold, and in places cliffy. At about li miles northward of the buoy there is a swatchway or channel, in which there are from 6 to 8 fathoms. It is probable the patch on which the buoy is placed is detached from the main shoal; but until this portion of St Vincent gulf has been accurately surveyed, this cannot be determined. To the eastward and N.E. of the buoy the water appears to shoal gradually towards the land, the before-mentioned channel, or swatchway probably intervening. Caution. — In thick weather, or in the middle of a summer's day, when the sun is ahead, and objects much affected by refraction, the lead should be carefully attended to ; by maintaining a depth of 5 fathoms, reduced to low water, the edge of the long spit may be avoided, and the buoy sighted. Sidling DirectioM. — Having brought the buoy to bear N.E., distant 2 miles, steer N.W. by N. i N. for 5 miles, until the western summit of the Hummocks is leen bearing North, when alter the course to North for 15 miles, until the land at the head of the gulf is distinguished, and a bold hill on the east side (inside Sandy point) observed ; then alter the course to N.N.E., not going into less than 4i fiathoms, until a large nun buoy is seen ; steer then to keep the buoy to the eastward, at a distance of 2 cables ; then alter the course to North. The buoy is placed in 17 feet on the outer extremity of the shoal spit, stretch- ing out to the westward of Sandy point, on the Bald hill spit. Before nearing the buoy, sail should be reduced, and the ship got ready for anchoring. The soundings southward of the buoy are shoal ; this portion of the gulf being only navigable by barges and small cn^ of little draught of water. ThUtXe Boc*.— This rock has been removed by blasting, the debris of the rock bong only 3 feet above the surface of the bottom. Its position was lat. Digitized by Google 18 INDIAN OCEAN DIRECTORY. 34** 19' 2" S.. long. ISS** 11' 80" E. ; from it mount Lofty bore S. 40** E. ; and the west summit of the Hummocks range. N. 20** W. It will be seen by the above that the rock was apparently close in sliore. This is owing to the imperfect charts of this portion of the gulf, as the rock was fully 2 miles from the low coast line. It was, however, quite out of the track of large vessels, and could be always avoided by not coming under 8 fathoms at low water.* Anchorage. — Having brought the largest store in the township of port Wake- field to bear N.N.E. ^ E., or the buoy S. I E., and the mangrove bushes on the Sandypoint to between E.S.E.andS.E.byE. lE.,anchor in 4 fathoms at low water. There will be room to swing in this berth, but not space to beat out of it with- out going into 18 feet at low water. Beating up the Oxdf. — In making a passage from the lighthouse to port Wake- field against head winds, make the first board to the westward, and stand on that tack — say West, — ^for about 16 miles, taking care not to come under 8 fathoms, so as to avoid the shoal water on Orontes bank ; then, going about, endeavour to work between the two shoals, — ^viz., Orontes bank and tiie long spit, — but, in drawing to the northward, do not fail to sight the buoy on the latter danger, as it forms an excellent guide for enabling a commander of a ship to know when he is to the northward of Orontes bank. Being off the buoy, and consequently northward of Orontes bank, the western coast may be safely approached, making long boards from 5 fathoms outside the long spit, on the east side, to T\athin a mile of the western shore. On nearing Sandy point, the red buoy on the Bald HiU spit should be passed as previously directed, when short tacks must be made, taking care not to bring the buoy to bear to the southward of S. \ E., and not standing to the westward into less than 3^ fathoms, anchoring in the space before indicated. Anchorage for small vessels. — Small vessels may stand towards the creek, observing that the water shoals very rapidly, from 3 fathoms in some places ; but even should a vessel touch the ground no injury will arise, as the bottom is generally composed of sand and mud, and there is no sea. Care, however, must be taken to keep a ship in such a position as to be clear of her anchor. Land Wind.— 'When leaving port Wakefield, it is advisable not to start untQ morning, when the wind generally being easterly, an offing may be easily obtained without beating out. Winds. — The winds during fine weather, in the summer, are generally as follows : — From sunrise to about 8h. a.m. from E. to E.S.E. ; in hot weather, the wind in the morning may be from N.E., gradually falling calm towards 8h. a.m. The sea breeze generally sets in after an interval of a couple of hours light winds, or calm at about 11, and freshens towards 5 o'clock, gradually moderating tiU sunset, when it comes round to the S.E., and dies away towards night. The barometer &lls rapidly with northerly winds both in the summer and winter seasons, and generally precedes a change of weather from the westward.. * The coasters report other small rocks in the vicinity of the site of the Thistle rock ; bat until the giilf is re-snrreyed, no farther information can be given. Digitized by Google INDIAN OCEAN DIRECTORY. 19 In summer the cliange often occurs suddenly &om the southward, when it Uows hard. In the winter the strongest winds are from the westward. Tides. — ^The tides at the head of the gulf are very irregular, and much affected by prevailing winds. With, strong westerly winds the rise of tide is much augmented, whilst the fall is much diminished. It often occurs during westerly winds, at neaps, that a higher tide will he experienced than at the springs, with fine weather, and south or aotuih-east winds. ¥^ith the latter the tides are at the lowest, and the rise at springs is much reduced. In fine weather, with the ordinary land and sea breezes, the time of high water at F. and C. is 5 hours, and the rise about 9 feet. At neaps, in fine weather, the rise and fall is almost imperceptible, the time of apparent high water being very irregular. Remarks. — ^Produce is now sent from port Wakefield to the shipping in the roadstead by barges. The river entrance is very shallow, and has a flat of mpwards of a mile in extent, uncovered at low water springs. At a rise of 6 or 7 feet above the low water spring level, the loaded barges can cross the bar. The question of either deepening the entrance of the river, or building a jetty across the flat, is now under the consideration of the Government. The supply of fresh water at port Wakefield is limited, and difficult to procure. It is, therefore, recommended that a sufficient stock should be procured at port Adelaide, if the ships call there on their way up the gulf ; or water can be obtained by arranging for the barges used at port Wakefield, but which generally belong to persons at port Adelaide, bringing up a supply. Page 687. Bkaoons. — The following notice was issued in 1868. " Two triangular beacons have been placed on Bald hill, the termination of the low wooded range rising above the mangrove swamp southward of the town of port Wakefield, as anchoring marks kit large vessels. Buld Hill Beacons., — ^The upper triangular beacon, about 50 feet above high water mark is painted red, 16 feet high, and distant 322 yards E. ^ S. from the lower triangular beacon, which is painted white, and 20 feet in height. Channel Beacons.. — The channel leading to the anchorage has been recently deepened, and beacons have been placed on its edges ; the western side of the OLtranoe is marked by a black beacon with a round top, and the eastern side by a red beacon having a lozenge-shaped head : a similar black beacon and a red lieacon are placed inside. Anchorage. — ^Large vessels approaching this anchorage should shorten sail off the Spit buoy, and anchor in 4 fathoms low water, with Bald hill beacons in line ; Saady point, the end of the low mangrove swamp under Bald hill, S.E. by E. f £. ; and the Spit buoy S. i E. Page 685. Kmv "WlxaiitraroA (ChUf of Bt. Vlaoent}.— A large red buoy has been placed CQtade the edge of the reef, extending to the westward of Snapper point, the nathem horn of the bay in which lies port Willunga. The buoy is of pyramidal shape, with a round top, and may be seen at a Digitized by Google so INDIAN OCEAN DIRECTORY. distance of 4 miles in clear weather. It is moored in 10 i fathoms at low water, immediately beyond the edge of the reef, and affords an excellent guide for clear- ing the rocky and uneven ground lying to the S.S.W. of the reef. In the event of any accident happening to the buoy, the reef may be cleared by keeping the inn close to Uie beach (to the northward of the jetty) twice its own breadth open to the northward of the end of the jetty. The buoy is placed inside this mark. The moorings which were laid down in 1855 have been removed ; ships will, therefore, have to depend on their own anchors. The holding ground is good anywhere outside the 4-fiathom line off the jetty. Anchorage. — ^The anchorage is exposed to all winds firom N.W. to S.W. round by west. At times a heavy sea rolls in, rendering ships at anchor very uneasy, and, unless well found in ground tackle, in an unsafe position ; it is, therefore recommended, on the approach of a S.W. gale — ^which is indicated by a &lling barometer, and the wind freshening from northward, with a cloudy sky — ^that shelter should be sought in Eastern cove, Kangaroo island, where a ship may anchor in perfect safety, according to draft of water, and remain until the wind shifts to the southward, when she will have a fair wind to return to port Willunga to complete her loading. (1666). Page 669. POST VZOTOB (BBoonntor Bay)« — ^Commanders of vessels bound to port Victor, port EUiot, or the mouth of the river Murray, are hereby informed that a very heavy break has been seen about k a mile south-east of the Seal rock. The break was observed from the Government schooner Flinders^ when lying at port Victor during an unusually heavy swell after a hard south-west gale. The sea did not break oftener than every half hour ; but with such violence and volume as would imperil any small or deeply-laden vessel. Immediately on the south-west swell slightly subsiding, the break was no longer seen. Soundings were taken in the Flinders during a favourable opportunity, when from 15 to 17 fathoms were found on a sandy bottom in the vicinity of where the breakers were seen ; it is moreover probable that less water may exist on a small patch; but it is evident, from the sea being only seen to break on very rare occasions after violent south-west gales, no shoal water exists, as the ocean swell, if at all heavy, generally breaks on the uneven bottom to the southward of the passage between Granite island and Seal rock, on which there are 5 fathoms. Commanders of vessels bound for port Victor, in rounding Seal rock during south-west gales, or during the heavy swell that often succeeds a gale in the offing, should either keep close to the rock (outside), or give it a berth of at least a mile, until it bears W.N.W., when a course may be shaped for the anchorage. At night, when Seal rock can easily be distinguished, it is advisable to keep off the land until daybreak, with the remarkable conical peak of Rosetta head bearing North — thus avoiding the bight of the bay between that headland and the Murray mouth and the rocky patches between Rosetta harbour and Seal rock. The soundings off Seal rock do not afford any guide within a reasonable distance of the land. (1667). Page 690. OVZOBBW BAT. — Captain Douglas (Adelaide) has published the following instructions lor this bay ; — Digitized by Google INDIAN OCEAN DIRECTORY. 21 Guichen bay is formed by cape Lannes,* in lat. 87° 9' 46" S., long. 1S9^ 44' 15" £., on its southern extreme, and Baudin's rocks and reefs N. by W. 41 miles from thence, at its northern extreme. From cape Lannes, a reef of rocks nms N.N.W. 1^ miles: from Baudin's rocks, another reef stretches 1^ mileB in a S.E. direction. Cape Lannes may be known by an obelisk on its extremity, 40 feet in height, painted red and white in horizontal stdpes, which being about 100 feet above the sea level, is visible 12 miles from the deck of a moderate-sized vess^ in clear weather ; the coast to the southward is composed of sandy hillocks lightly timbered. Breakers extend fully 2 miles off this part of the coast, and, from their treacherous nature, and the heavy ocean swell settling directly on them, should be most carefdlly avoided. Baudin's rocks kanxk a group of islets, situated from cape Lannes, N. by W., 4^ miles; they are visible about 7 miles. The bay inside the reefs, off cape Lannes and the Baudin's rocks, is 8 miles deep, and lined by a clean sandy beach, the bottom quite clear, and of excellent holding ground, with gradual soundings from 5 fathoms in the stream of the reefs to the shore, with the exception of a few rocky points, near the township, which terminates a few fathoms from the beach. A convenient jetty, with a tramway from the road to the end, is now completed, having, at its extremity, 6 feet at low water ; boats can load here in any weather, fay having a line fast to a grapnell outside, to steady them and haul off by. Vessels bound into this anchorage, from the southward, should bring the obelisk on cape Lannes, to bear S.E. 2^ miles, when the point of the reef will bear E.S.E. ; having a leading wind, mn in East until the obelisk bears S.S.W., and tram thence steer South for the anchorage. Small vessels will find excellent anchoEBge inside the buoys, with the pier-head S.W. by S. k S., and the obelisk W. I N., in 3 fathoms, veering away a good scope of chain at once ; and, in the event of bad weather, having a second anchor ready to let go. Vessels coming from the northward should carefally avoid the reef off cape Jafh, in lat. Se** 65' 80" S., long. 189^ 85' 80" E , by keeping at least 10 miles off the point ; for, though the outer rock is not more than 5 miles from the beach, the bottom is so uneven that the sea often breaks in deep water, in bad weather, with such violence as would jeopardize a small deep-loaded vessel. Having sighted the obelisk, and brought it to bear S.E. 6 miles, and the Baudin's rocks E. 2} ndles, steer ia S.E. by E., keeping the reef off Baudin's iDdoB on the port hand or to the eastward, until the obelisk bears S.W. by S. I S. when shorten sail and stand in to the anchorage. Small vessels in the winter season should carefully avoid anchoring too close to a rocky point at the eastern end of the town ; as, in the event of their wanting to veer away cable, such a position might be inconvenient. Vessels working into the bay with head winds will find the channel between Baudin's and cape Lannes reefs folly 2^ nules broad ; by not borrowing within the already presecribed distances, and keeping the lead going, they may work in Cbpa Laxmes, or Dombey, of AdmiraAy Charts. Digitized by VjOOQ IC 22 INDIAN OCEAN DIRECTORY. iu safety » taking care not to approach the shelf which lies inside cape Lannes too closely. The harometer in this bay, as is generally found on all parts of the coast, is an iuTaluable guide. The mercury fiedling with an N.E. wind and sultry close weather in the winter sef&son, is a sure precursor of bad weather, for which prepaifttion should be made. Page 691. MACDOmifiLZi BAT. — ^Vessels bound into port MacDonnell by day should give cape Northumberland a good offing, taking care not to bring the cape to bear to the westward of N.W. by N., until mount Schanck bears N. by W., when a course may be shaped for the anchorage, which will then bear N.W. ; stand boldly on, carefully observing the breakers on the reef. On this course, the water will shoal rapidly from 10 to 6 fiathoms, and as the beach is approached to 3 fathoms on a rocky bottom, generally, in the latter depth, the soundings will be very regular, as, although the ground is rocky, the patches appear to be composed of limestone flats covered sHghtly with seaweed. Before thus closely approaching the coast, strangers should hoist the signal for a pilot, who will, if the weather be not too bad, come ofif. Should the pilot not be able to board, it is recommended to obtain an offing until the weather moderates. At night, except under the charge of the pilot, it is not prudent to enter the bay ; and masters of vessels should keep the light bearing from N.N.W. to N.N.E., taking care not to come under 25 fathoms water, which will place a ship about 5 or 6 miles from the cape. Masters of vessels acquainted with this port will find no difficulty in entering it by observing the following directions : — On approacliing from seaward keep point Douglas, a headland to the W.N.W. of cape Northumberland, well open of the latter, and mount Gambler more than the length of mount Schanck open to the eastward of the latter before stauding in, after which steer for mount Schanck until the mooring-buoys are made out. By keeping the eastern set, bearing between N.W. } W. and W.N.W., they may be safely approached, when the Harbour-Master will, if possible, come off and moor the ship. Masters of vessels are requested to carefully observe if any of the signals hereinafter mentioned are made from the flagstaff near the jetty. In the event of the moorings being occupied, vessels entering the bay must anchor ; and should be kept in such a condition, as to ballast and trim, as will enable them to seek an offing in the event of bad weather coming on. Although the moorings now laid down at this port are of the heaviest descrip- tion, and fully competent to hold any vessel that can enter port MacDonnell, it must be remembered that, during heavy south-west gales, the sea rolls in over the outlying reefs, and breaks in the bay very heavily. On these occasions vessels will lide very uneasUy, and be cut off from communication with the shore. A life-boat and an efficient boat's crew, together with Dennett's rocket appara- tus for saving life, has been established at this port. The following signals are established at this port. The flagstaff at which the signals will be displayed is situated near the base of the jetty. Digitized by Google INDIAN OCEAN DIKECTORY. From Shipping to Signal Station on Shore. 23 SignalB. Where shown. By day. By night. 1 ' Harbour Master At Peak At Fore. At Peak. At Fore. At Main. n n At Peak. At Main. At Peak. At Main. Union Jack. »» i Wheft, or No. 1 1 Pennant No. 1 Pennant No. 6. Ensign. No. 9. No.l. No. 7. No. a r Ensign Union ( down. Telegraph flag. r One flash or bine light ; red \ above green Ught Two flash or bine lights. (In harbour.— Two lights horizontal at peak. In \ the Boada. — Two lights horiaontal.— one flash Ught __ (Two bine or flash lights: 1 two vertical lights, j Two lights horizontal ; two 1 flash or bine lights. ( Guns ; bine or flash light, or • rockets alternately, until (reply is made. ! Pilot '. \ Polim» ... RhhnrfnffMastflr Bojp^^-iawer...... ........ ' Health Offioer ProTisions Shines atfent. Diatreai By day will be answered from shore by Numeral Pennant by night by flash light. From Signal Station on shore to Shipping. fi^lg n ^lff , Where shown. By day. By night. Oale «pproaching from north Ditto, north-west l>tilo,we8t Ditto, sooth-weat Ditto aonth Ditto, sooth-eart Bend down top-gal. masts and yards and let go seoond to Below Ensign or Jack. to sea. Notsft remain at anehorsge Aaeiftoiage misafe Above Ensign. No.l. No.& No. 5. No. 6. No. 7. 1 1st. disting. I Pennant. No. 6. I Bine and I white flag. Blue flag. Two horizontal lights. Two horizontal lights; one flash light. IVo verucal lights. Two vertical lights; one flash or blue light. One rocket. Two horizontal li^ts; one rocket. One flash or bine light; one rocket. Two rockets or two gons. (One gnn; one flash light \ (repeated if necessary). (1867). Page 692. I (Bam 8trait)« — ^A rocky ledge, which appears to be several ndles in length in a north and south direction, has lately been found to exist 6 miles seaward of Sea Elephant bay, King island : the general depths on this ledge are 4^ and 6 &thoms, but a patch with only 22 feet was found near the northern extreme, from which Sea Elephant rock bore E. f S., distant 4^ miles. Aa a dangerous sea will be found on this ledge during bad weather, ships should approach Sea Elephant bay with caution. Page 696. VOMT FfTfTtTiTF. — ^The lighthouse on point Lonsdale is coloured in red and white bands ; it exhibits ^ fixed light, visible about 10 miles. The light is green, L about S. by E. eastward to S.E. \ E. (39^) ; red from S.E. \ E. eastward to Digitized by Google 24 INDIAN OCEAN DIKECTORY. E. by N. (60^^ ; bearings from the lighthouse. Lonsdale point is a mortar and rocket station. Tidal signals, denoting the quarter of the tide with reference to the stream, are made at the flagstafif on the point. The Lonsdale rock lies nearly } mile, and the Lightning rock Ij^o miles from the lighthouse, both on a S.E. I E. bearing. While the green light is in sight, vessels are outside these rocks ; while the red light, inside : — the blending of the lights is on a line with the dangers, hence the greatest caution is required when the colours are about to blend. Pages 697 and 700. Bliortland BlnfL — The Low lighthouse shows a fixed light at 90 feet above the sea, visible 10 to 14 miles. The light is white from S.W. by W. south- ward to S.W. (llj'') ; red from S.W. southward to S.S.W. (22i°) ; white from S.S.W. eastward to E. by S. (lOli**) ;~bearings from the lighthouse. The High lighthouse, a stone tower on the bluff at 852 yards N.E. by N. from the Low light, shows 2^ fixed light at 130 feet above the sea, visible 17 miles. Its geographical position is lat. 88' 16' 27" S., long. 144** 39' 46" E. The light is shown seaward from about W. by S. to South (78}°). By an observer close in with the Lonsdale land it will be seen only between the bearings from it of S.W. by W. southward to South (564°). Within the harbour it is shown over an arc of 180° (from S.W. by W. southward and eastward to N.E. by E.). Short- land bluff is a Life-boat station. The two lights in one, N.E. by N., lead in. The red light (in the Low light- house) must be kept in sight until within the Heads ; the change of colour from red to white indicates the immediate vicinity of the reefs extending from points Lonsdale and Nepean, hence the line of the lights in one should be strictly followed. At the extremity of the reef extending from point Nepean (east side of the entrance) is the Corsair, a rock 8 feet under water, iiaving a depth of 8 to 5 fathoms close to it; Lonsdale reef is also very steep. Pages 697 and 701. JAMES IMRAY k SON, 89, MiNORiES, & Tower Hill, London. [To be inserted behind the Title of the Indian Ooean Directory.] Digitized by Google I PART I. NOTES OH THB PHYSICAL GEOGRAPI 1 OF THE INDIAN OCEAN TN ITS APPLICATION TO NAVIOATION. y CHAPTER I. INTBODrCTOEY. X* Ths IKl^XJkXr OCHAV, like the Atlantic and Pacific, has its be paztl J nataral and partly artificial : it is limited westward by the African and coBSi« ; and northward by Persia and India — ^the latter (by its peninsular-fori] 11^ it into two deep and nearly symmetrical indentations ; its eastern bound Binnah, the Malayan peninsula, the west coast of Sumatra, the southern coasta Baly, liombok, Sumbawa, Eloris and Timor, and the west coast of Austri MelTiUe Island on the north thence round to the southern point of Tasmani cottstitiite its natural lines of demarcation : southward it communicates frc the €freat Southern Ocean, but its artificial boundaries in this direction flseridum of Cape A^lhas on the west, and that of the south point of Tasi t^ east, each prolonged to the Antarctic Circle, which forms its southern 1 aod benoe the track of vessels bound for the colonies of Australia and New lits in the Southern Indian Ocean. Within the boundaries just indicated the Indian Ocean caimot be said t( in isbads : in mid-ocean, i-ocks, shoals, and vigias— some real and some im soeh as have been and still are so frequently reported as existing in the Atla Pacific — are comparatively few, although such dangers are numerous enong * 13iMe ■!« tbe geograpfaicsl boundaries of the Indian Ocean as settled by the Coui Bn^eeograpMoa Society in 1847. onialr> Digitized by VjOOQ Ic ^ 2 INDIAN OCEAN. vicinity of some parts of the coast. The continental islands are represented by Mada^oar and Ceylon; the oceanic islands — sometimes volcaaiie, sometimes of coral formation, sometimes partaking of both characters— dispersed singly or in groups, have representatives in Mauritius, Reunion, the Seychelles, Kerguelen, &c. &c, and in that long chain which, commencing with the northernmost of the Laccadives, is continued through the Maldeeves to the Chagos ; but by far the most remarkable mass of islands— one which has nowhere else a parallel — is the Indian Archipelago, which, while sketching out the connexion between the Asiatic and Australian con- tinents, forms, by the numerous channels and straits between the islands, the only equatorial communication of the Indian with the Pacific Ocean, — the channels, how- ever, being everywhere encumbered with a wilderness of shoals and rocks, islets, and BQUiU islands, rendering the navigation of that region the most hazardous on the globe. The chief branches of the Indian Ocean are the Bay of Bbkoal, the Arabian Sea, the Bed Sea, the Pbbsian Gulf, the Mozambiqub Channel, and the Straits of Malacca. The fame of the isles which stud the Ocean as its waters roll by their shores from the Pacific to the Indian had, in early ages, filled the minds of western adventurers with luxurious dreams of gold« pearls, gums, spices, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, velvets, damasks, silks, and the '* purple light of perfumed lamps." From such visions, created by the romancing of earlier voyagers, men awoke to soberer views of the barbaric grandeur of the people and of the neglected treasures of those distant groups — for there was wealth enough and to spare. Extending through thirty degrees of latitude and forty-five degrees of longitude, the Archipelago is the centre of those ocean highways which connect the Asiatic nations with the ports of Europo and Western America. It lies along both sides of the equator, and is approached from the west through the Straits of Sunda and Malacca, — with openings from the southward too numerous to indicate here. The islands are abundantly volcanic, and the islets, rocks, and shoals are of coral : their appearance to the navigator of the narrow seas that separate them is singularly pleasing — while the dangers for incautious mariners are strewed about by myriads ; but it is in this very region that commercial enterprise has yet to show its power in the development of unbounded wealth at present neglected. It is the whole of the oceanic area here briefly indicated — the coast -line sur- roimding it, and the gi'oups of islands scattered over its surface — ^the bays, gulfs, and straits— "the prinoipal portu, harbours, and roadsteads— the character of the seasons, and of the prevalent winds— the tides and currents — together with other information aseful to the Navigator, which will be found abundantly discussed and examined in ihp following pages, and in such a form that the work may be a complete "SAILING DIRECTORY FOR THE INDIAN OCEAN." Digitized by Google THEORY OP THE WINDS, CHAPTER 11. GENEBAL BEMAEK8 ON THE WINDS AND SEASONS. vepraMBtatlve OV TMM omPflBSMT mMUOITS QW L — ^In parts of the world widely separated there b a distribution of the winds peculiar to the region, and these differences serve to characterize the dimate of each. In and near the tropies^in the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, the winds bbw,almost ftil the year, from the same points of the horizon — the eastern — the deriation being near the equatorial regions, where the " belt of calms" separates the " N.£.*ly peren- nial Trade- wind" of the Nortbem Hemisphere from the " 8.E.-ly Trade-wind" of the Sonthem Hemisphere. In the Indian Ocean (and in the seas connected with it) the same persistency of the winds daring the whole year is not observable between th« tropics ; here they are periodical, blowing for five months from one quarter of the horizon, and for another five months from an opposite quarter; these are the '* Monsoons ;" and the interval between the termination of one characteristic wind and the setting-in of another is known as the ** change" of the Monsoon. In middle and higher latitudes all the winds are variable, but with a general prevalence from the %eeat, being S.W.-ly in the Northern Hemisphere, and N.W.-ly in the Southern Hemisphere. On the sea-coast — more or less in all climates, but especially between the tropics — a regular period of change is observed every day j at nearly the same iiour in the evening the wind blows from the land, in the morning it comes from the sea ; these are the " land-and-sea breezes." In this brief sketch is indicated the general distribution of the different currents of air over the surface of the globe, while the alternating land-and-sea breezes give ns an insight into their origin. S. TBBCratT OV THB WiJUllfl. — ^The main cause of the disturbanoe of the equilibrium of the atmosphere and of the propagation of currents of air {toinds) over the surface of the globe is the unequal heating of portions of that surface more or less widely separated ; for, under the influence of heat, the air expands and beoomes lighter, and even acquires an ascensional (or upward) tendency when pressed upon by the cooler (and heavier) particles surrounding it. We see the simplest instance of this in the land-and-sea breezes prevalent on nearly all seaboards at certain seasons, and especially characteristic of all large tropical islands. The respective surfSMsee of land and water absorb and radiate the sun's heat unequally, and the variation in the atmospheric temperature corresponds thereto : in proportion as the sun rises above the horizon, the land becomes warmer than the neighbouring ocean, hence the cooler iea-hreeze sets in towards the land to restore the equilibrium. During the night, the process is reversed, the land loses heat by radiation and cools more quickly than the ocean, hence the stream of air fl6ws from the land towards the sea as a land- yteze, which ceases as soon as the density of the two atmospheres has again beoome the same. Similar causes on a large scale set the whole atmosphere in motion— producing vinds characteristic of the tropical regions on the one hand, and of the temperate and poUr r^^ns on the other, — ^the direction and intensity of each system of air- «TiTreats being, however, greatly modified (1) by the earth's rotatory ration, and Digitized by ' 4 THEORY OP THE WINDS. (2) by the relative position of the continents and the oceans. Such was the theory first announced by Halley,* and afterwards enlarged and modified by Hadley,t — the latter insisting especially on the necessity for the S.W. and N.W. compensating currents beyond the tropics. The effect of the diurnal motion of tlie earth in alterhig the direction of a current of fur moving firom North to South, or vice vered, will be readily understood ; for, since all circles parallel with the equator decrease in circumference as they approach the poles, it follows that, in one diurnal revolution, a spot on the equator must describe a greater circle than any spot in middle and polar latitudes, and must con- sequently move with greater velocity : the earth in turning on its axis from west to east carries the atmosphere with it and imparts its own motion to it; & polar current of air, therefore, on passuig towards the equator takes with it only the velocity which it had acquired firom that part of the earth whence it came, and must, in its progression, be moving more slowly than the region towards which it is travelling ; in being thus left behind, the apparent motion will be in the contrary direction, and, accordingly, the North wind in the Northern Hemisphere and the South wind in the Southern Hemi- sphere—the tendency of both being ever towards the equator — ^will have a westerly direction impressed upon them by virtue of the movement of the earth on its axis, i,e, the North wind will become successively a N.E. and East wind,— and the South wmd, a S.E. and East wind, for their respective hemispheres; and these are the TBiDE*wiNDa—^^min»aZ (or constant) breezes — ^the expression at once of the differ- ence of temperature between the tropics and the polar regions, and of the permanent inequality of the distribution of the solar heat: but the Monsoons — so character- istic of the tropical area of the Indian ocean— being periodical winds, are expres- sive of the d^erence of temperature between the extreme seasons of the coun- tries where they are prevalent, as will be presently shown in detail. Where the trade-winds approach towards each other, and from the excessive heat of the equatorial regions take the form of an ascending current, is the Region of Equatorial Calms, or Doldrums — ^an irregular belt varying in breadth and form, as well as oscillating with the sun's position in the ecliptic. Notwithstanding, however, that the predominating condition of the air within this belt is one of intense (oppressive) heat and general stillness, the equilibrium is but imperfect, and consequently easily disturbed;— storms occur occasionally, and are frequent in the vicinity of the land, — while deluges of rain at intervals of a few hours are accompanied by deafening thun- der and the most vivid of forked and sheet lightning; here also originate the hurricane and cyclone. The upper or return Trade-winds (" Couktbb-Tbadb " of Mauby, and Anti- Tbadb" of Hebschel) are the natural consequences of the ascending current of air at the equator overawing and passing off towards the temperate and polar regions ; in the Northern Hemisphere the heated air is determined towards the north, —in the Southern Hemisphere, towards the south, and hence these equatorial air- currents must behave in a manner exactly the reverse of the polar : they come from regions moving with the greatest speed round the earth's axis— a speed which they share themselves— and as they advance into higher latitudes where the rate of • An Htotorioal Aooonnt of the Trade-Wlnds and Monsoons obieirable in th« Seu between SL^"**J«o * Troplos, with an attempt to assign the Physical Cause of the said Winds. Pmu xaaNSi 1688. t The Cause of Uie General Trade- Wind. Potl. Tbans. 1785. Digitized by VjOOQ IC THEORY OF THE WINDS. 6 ttotkm us slower, tbey must, the further they get from the place of their origui, Spear to moTe to the east at a rate proportionate to the diflTerence between their wn velocity and that of the earth in the latitude at which they arrive;— thus the wind M from the westerly points of the horizon, which combined with the initial movement (from N. or S.) gives a S. W. wind for the temperate zone (or middle lati- tudes) of the ;Northem Hemisphere, and a N.W. wind for the middle latitudes of the Souiheni Hemisphere. ^^here the equatorial upper currents first approach the earth's surface (in about ht 30P) is another Calm-beU — in each hemisphere— chiefly remarkable however kr light baffling airs, intermmgled with frequent squalls; that of the Northern Hemisphere is known (after Mauey) as the Calm-belt of Cancer or the JBhree" latitudea^^hat of the Southern, as the Calm-belt qf Capricorn; here the winds from S.W., N. W., N.E., and S.E. blow (approximately) the same number of days in the year, ibr within these belts a constant conflict is sustained between the upper (descending) and the surface currents of air— a portion only of the former current pursuing its amrse polar-wise, since a large part necessarily returns to the equatorial regions to feed the Trade-winds. ' of the circulation of the wind, in which the air is supposed to ixwel from pole to pole and then return to the place whence it originally started— making the Trade-wind of one hemisphere pass into the other hemisphere as an upper current within the tropics, and so also placing the source of tlie rainfall of one hemi* sphere in its opposite — is known to all navigators who have read either his •' Sailiko DiBECTioss," or his " Physical Gbooeafhy of the Sea,"— works which dis- cuss the theory at great length; it is suflicient here to say that such a system of atmospheric circulation does not find acceptance with the best meteorologists—British and Foreign. ft. JMIWS Tlie«rjr— The Law of Gyration : — ^The general tendency of the wind to " veer with the sun " is an old observation,* but now confirmed; in fact, meteorological data, accumulated with assiduous care during the last 30 years, show that the wind often makes a complete circuit in that direction — passing (in northern latitudes) from south through west^ north and east, to south, in succession — or some- times making more than one circuit in succession, occupying several days or weeks in Mich veering; and that it rarely veers in a contrary direction—" against the «i»;»"— and rarer still makes a complete circuit in such a direction. The credit of having reduced theM data into a system is due to Dove, of Berlin, one of the first meteorologiBts ill Europe — who, by comparing observations gathered from all parts of the world, infers that the influence of the earth's rotation is not alone felt in the great system of ' Lord Bacon, in his '^ HiBtoria Xatoralis et Experimentallfl de Ventif/* speaking of the order ^m uuMkm of the winds, says, — '* When the wind shifts in the direction of the son's course — limt it, from mom till noon, and from noon till evening, &c., it seldom retrogrades; or when it docs so^ it is obIj fbr a short time. When, however, it shifts in the opposite direction— that is to stfkd the changes ensue ofteuer between North and West, and between South and East Ihan between West and South, or East and North. 7. This is the Law of Gybatiok^— ^r the Zaio of the Eotation of the Wtno^ and we see that the veering of the vane may merely indicate the existence of a steady current of air. It is a misapprehension of this fact that causes the existing confusion with reference to questions bearing on the theory of the windtf. The essential i^erence between the veering of the vane as produced by a steady breeze and that resulting from a centripetal current^ or a whirling motion with an advancing centre, u, however, that in the first instance {i.e, with a steady breeze) the rotation is constantly in the same direction, but in the case of the second it veers on both sides of the track and in opposite directions. If, therefore, as regards the Northern Hemi- sphere, the partial rotation through S., W., N., E. be called " with the sun" or direeti and the partial rotation through S., E., N., W. be called '* against the sun," or retrograde, as is costomairy : and similarly, in the Southern Hemisphere, the partial rotation through S., E., N., W. be called '* with the sun,"* and the partial rotation throogh S., W., N., E. be called " against the sun,"* it follows that- Steady winds turn the vane only in a direct sense, or noith the sun ; Whirlwinds, or centripetal gales* when they advance, turn the vane either with or against the sun, according to the side on which the vortex passes by the place of observation. When steady winds from different directions approach each other, rotations com- mence in either way ;^Urect when, on the west side of the compass, a wind is more northerly than that which preceded it, and retrograde when it is more southerly. On the east side, on the contrary, the gyration is direct when a wind is more southerly than its predecessor, and retrograde when it is more northerly. Winds blowing from directly opposite points may, by arresting each other's coarse, produce a calm, and therefore give rise to the same pheno* menon which is visible in the vortex of a centripetal current (or in the centre of a whirlwind), that is to say, a calm intervening between opposite winds. * KcitlMr or these «sprt«loiis aeeords with the seaman's visw! he is aociistoined to regard a ni/rom / with the sun ; {b) If it passes to the eastward — The rotation will be »-♦ S., W., N., E., S. »-* against the sun. Thus, in both hemispheres, the passage of an Equatobial whirlwind- storm on the west side of the place of observation produces normal revolutions, i,e, revolutions in accordance with the law of gyration ; but its passage on the east side produces anomalous revolutions, i,e. contrary to the law of gyration. Polab whirlwind-storms move precisely in an opposite direction :-— the revolution is normal when the vortex passes to the eastward, and anomalous (or abnormal) when it passes to the westward of the place of observation. The old rule that ''anomalous shiftings of the vane occur in stormy weather" is in this manner justified. It cannot, however, be ascertained from those shiftings whether an equatorial whirlwind passes on one side, or a polar one on the other ; — ^this depends on the initial point of the shifting, and, as a consequence of the whirlwind, can never amount to more than half a circle. (4.) The vane may shid from one direction to that immediately opposite to it— (a) When steady winds oppose each other, or fight with each other, as tlic seaman says ; (h) When the vortex of a whirlwind-storm passes over the place of observation. (5.) A whirlwind-storm may be passing even when the wind- vane does not shift at the place of observation. This happens when the place is but touched by the whirlwind. On one side the storm then appears to retrograde, — and on the other to advance : — ^for instance, a whirlwind (revolving in a direction contrary to that in which the hands of a watch move) is advancing from S.W. to N.E.J on the north-west side of such a stoi-m, a N.B. wind appears Digitized by LjOOQIC 10 THEORY OF THE WINDS. in Uie south-westerly regions earlier than in the north-easterly, whilst on the sooth-east side of the storm a S.W. wind actually appears to advance, I.e. it enters the north-easterly regions at a later period. The first, is the well-known case observed by Franklin during an eclipse of the moon . Those who, founding their theory on this and analogous instances, divide the winds into positive and negative,—- into winds par inspiration, aud par impuUiont'^ceML one side of such a storm positive and the other negative. (6.) In the temperate zones storms are caused, also, by two currents of air in juxtaposition, — one pressing laterally on the other,— and during the transi- tion, the shifting of the vane may be either with or against the sun, but ever according to the direction of the currents impinging on each other. (7.) Local phenomena (as land and sea breezes, tv inds blowing through valleys, deflections of the trade- vrinds along the coast, trombs, &c.) affect the wind vane according to local conditions, and they may be such as either to produce a veering of the vane in accordance with that consequent on general air- currents, or one in an opposite direction. In open regions they are more prominent during the day, when the general air-currents are less prevalent ; — so also in the region of the '' variables" between the trades, at the time the monsoons change, and particularly in simimer, when the ascending current (courant ascendant) weakens the power of the horizontal currents. Indeed, it is not impossible that, setting aside local influences, one cause of a periodical shifting of the vane is to be found in the daily course of the sun ; —thus, if the spot where the daily maximum of temperature occurred formed a point qf attraction for bodies of air lying near it, the direction of the wind during the morning would necessarily be westerly, and during the qftemoon easterly, — and thus the vane would turn in a direction contrary to the movement of the magnetic needle. As whirlwinds are not confined to a definite locality, the probability that any given place is situated on its east side is just as gpreat as that it should be on the west side ; the same remarks also apply where whirlwinds owe their origin to local causes— * and thus display a great degree of similitude as regards their course. The predominance of the gyration of the wind in a certain direction (with the sun) is consequently a phenomenon which is not connected with the whirling motion of the storm-winds, but only with the influence of the earth's rotation on progressive steady winds. Now three things are possible : — . 1. Either all revolutions - of thd vane through great arcs are caused by whirl- winds J and in this case, — (a) If these whirlwinds occur first at one spot and then at another, indiiferently, then there is no predominating direction in the shifting of the vane; (h) Or, if the origin of these whirlwinds is local, and if in their progress they advance more or less along the same path, then there are, at certain places in each hemisphere, predominant sfaiftings of the wind-vane in the direction 8., E., N., W., and in othen, in the direction S., W., N., B. Digitized by VjOOQ IC THEORY OP THE WINDS. 11 2. Or, all shifUngs of the wind-vane commence with the alternation of steady meridional air-cnrrents, in accordance with the principles of Hadley's theory of the trade winds, and in consequence of opposing currents pushing through each other : then the vane traverses in the direction S., E., N., W. in the northern hemisphere, — and S., W., N., E. in the southern : i,e. in both cases the wind veers with the sun. The hacking of the wind cannot under these conditions exceed the quadrant of a circle. 3. Or, lastly, the shillings of the wind-vane arise, in both ways, (1) from the alter- nation and displacement of meridional air-currents, and (2) from a progressive whirlwind ; consequently, in each hemisphere, both descriptions of rotation must occur, but that " with the sun" will predominate. The first cause — alternations of meridional currents — ^produces (in both hemispheres) only g^Tations with the sun j and the second — i,e, the whirlwind— just as many with the sun as against it. Hence, however frequent whirlwinds may be, there must always be more gyrations that are direct than retrograde. It is well known that whirlwind -storms, hunicanes, or cyclones, originate at certain. places, and spread in certain directions ; for instance, — (a) The West India hurricanes {Aracan or Suirati'VUcan of the coast of Mexico, Vvthan of Patagonia) commence on the inner edge of the N.E. trade, and even within the trade itself, especially in the latter part of summer and in autumn, the whirling motion of which is caused originally by the wind blowing from the S.E. encountering the N.E. trade, or by portions of the upper trade descending from above. They progress from S.E. to N.W. in the tonid zone, then recurving at right angles at the outer edge of the trade-wind.s, they move from S.W. to N.E. ; during the progression the whirlwind, which revolves in a direction opposite to that in which the hands of a watch move, expands very considerably. In the region of the S.E. trade- wind of the Atlantic, whirlwind- storms occur with less frequency. {b) The typhoons in the northern Indian Ocean and China Sea occur most frequently in autumn, but are also violent at the commencement of the S.W. monsoon. The direction in which they advance is rather more from E. to W. than from N.E. to S.W., especially on the south coast of China. In the southern half of the Indian Ocean they are likewise very violent, going there from N.E. to S.W., and recurving at right angles at the outer edge of the trade, whence they advance from N.W. to S.E. The rotation of the air in the whirlwind-storms of the northern hemisphere is in the opposite direction to that in which the hands of a watch move; and in the direction with watehbands in the southern. The causes which produce these effects lie in the lateral juxtaposition of the regions of the monsoons and trade winds, as well as in the displacement of one monsoon by the other. Undnr certain local conditions* a whirlwind-storm may be so modified as to asBome at particular spots the form of a steady wind; although, when its course is obterred over a large circuit, it shows itself to be a real whirlwind. Thia is the case, for instance, according to RedtibIiD, with the hurricanes {northers) of the Digitized by LjOOQIC 12 TllADE-WIND REGION— ATLANTIC. northeiTi part of the Gulf of Mexico, which, especially from September to March, at Vera Cruz, reach their greatest height four hours after they commence, and then rage for 48 hours with undiminished fury. The explanation giren by Eedfield of this long duration of the storm without changing its direction is, that the whirlwind advancing from the eastward comes in contact with and is arrested by the high land, by which means it becomes, as it were, flattened, and its circular form is partially changed to a rectilinear one. The N.E. and N.N.E. storms in the Pacific Ocean, on the coasts of Nicaragua and Guatemala, known by the names Papagallo and Tekuaniepec, are, according to Redfibld, the fine-weather side of a whii-lwind- storm, — while the S. W. gales in August and September, which are called Tapayaguas, represent the other side. The indications of approaching weather will be most simple in the zone of the trade-winds, because the rotation of the earth, owing to the simple circumstance of the initial and terminal points of the aerial current remaining ne^irly the same, does not produce a regular shifting of the vane, but its constant deflection, viz., a steady wind — that of the trade ; and the storms have only one form — a rotatory one. In the region of the monsoons they will be somewhat more compUcat«d, because there two aerial currents, alternating once with each other in the year, pro- duce one annual shifting of the vane, being periodical winds ; and the storms, the form of which is likewise rotatory, have consequently a less constant direction, and in fact it must differ in a certain degree from the prevalent one in order to produce a whirlwind. They must, lastly, be most complicated in the temperate zone, where the law of gyration is universally prevalent, but where storms also occur in all forms hitherto known. The temperate zone has, however, this advantage over the torrid zone, that whirlwinds produce but modified effects as compared with the fearful violence of storms of this description in the tropics, and where they are so desti'uctive. The relation of the winds to the temperature and pressure of the air will be discussed in a future chapter. 9. The Trade-vnnd Beffion in the Atlantle Oeeaa :*-— Although this work is principally designed to place before the Shipmaster such information as may be useful in the navigation of the Indian Ocean and the China Seas — where the number of regular traders, plying exclusively from port to port in those waters, has enor- mously increased of late years — stiU, the traffic between Atlantic ports and the East is so large and of such importance, that a general but brief notice of the distri- bution of the Trade Winds in the Atlantic Ocean is absolutely necessary, for the speedy crossing of this region may make all the difference between a long and a short voyage. 10- The average breadth of the Atlantic Teadb-wind Ucgion — estimating it to extend from the mean polar boundary of the N.E. to the mean polar boundary of the S.B. Trade-wind — is about 63i degi-ees — 3195 geographical miles— i.e. from Lat. 27F N. to Lat. 26° S. 1.1. No fact is better known to the navigator than that the position — and even tlie direction — of the Trade-winds greatly depends on the position of the sun in the ♦ This is introduced, as all shipmasters may not have an *♦ Atlantic Directory :"— such a work is published by Messrs. Imray and Son :— in it the physical phenomena of Die Allantio arc fhUy described, and *' soiling directions *' given for all the principal \wr\M, Digitized by LjOOQIC TRADE-WIND REGION— ATLANTIC. 13 Sc^ptio— oscillating north and south, according as the Ban has N. or S. declination. The polar boundary of the N.E. Trade has a mean oscillation of five degrees, ». e. £rom Lat. 30^ K. in August to Lat. 2^ N. in January, but the position in which it may generally be found at any of the four quarters of the year, and in any longi« tade between 15^ and 75^ W., is shown in the following table : — Tabi2 L-^Ctiving the Mean Polar Boundary of the N.E, Trade Wind in the Atlantic Ocean,* Long. W. WiNTEE 8PBI17G. Jan., Feb., March. '• April, May, June. SUHMEB. July, Aug., Sept. Lat.N. Lat. N. Lat.N. AUTUHN. Oct., Nov., Dec. Lat. N. 75 70 66 60 56 50 46 4D 36 ao 25 20 15 Mean 26i 23 27 30i 27i 31 33 291 29 28J 26i 27i 31 28i 31i 29i 33i 34i 28i 27J 23 26 30 26 24J 22i 26 28 29i 26i la. The steady winds of the torrid zone {i,e, the N.E. Trade in the northern portion, and the S.E. Trade in the southern) is divided into two parts by the intervening J^Mitf qf Calms : in the Atlantic ocean, not only is the oscillation of this zone very eonsiderable — but its breadth during the northern summer is great ; thus, the mean range of the equatorial boundary of the N. E. Trade varies between Lat. l(f or 12^ N. (in Angnst, September, and October) and Lat. 1° or 3° N. (in March and April), but it has been reported as far north as Lat. 17^ N. and as far south as Lat. 3° S. The equatorial boundary of the S.E. Trade ia more frequently found north of the equator than aouth of it, its mean position being in Lat. 3^ or 4° N. on the western side of the Atlantic, and in Lat. P or 2° N. on the eastern side— and its range b small as compared with that of the N.E. Trade. The axis of the Belt of Equato ri al Calms lies near the parallel of 6° N., which coincides with the greatest number of Calms as reported by Mauby ; and the mean breadtli of this belt, for the whole year, is about 3| degrees (or 220 geographical miles), being the mean dis- taoee between the equatorial margins of the two Trade-winds. A convergence of the two winds (N.E. and S.E) takes place on the westerly meridians, and hence the Calm-belt is narrower on the western side of the Atlantic than on the eastern. These icmaiks are illastrated in the following table : — * TMs it a tabic of double entrj, bat the headings explain themselves, — ^thns, daring Autumn, la teg. 40P W.. the northern (or polar) bonndtry of the N.E. Trade Wind Is in lat. 28' N.,— tataC Swamer. la lat. SSi^ N. Digitized by L^OOg IC u TRADB.WIND BEGION— ATLANTIC. § I I? ir 1 si ^^ II ^ SS4 ^ S ' li o ' s 1 sr^ ?sr CO ^^ Er «e<5 CO 1 ft< •^ ^r,^ !z; f«;!z! Jzj !^!Z5 ' l^°S Sso 1 %'S ^* i-H ;^;2r ^^ &:'^^* » fessi 1 fe» izil^ . °S^^ » lOrH :Sr ^ ; ?,«? ^' &^-«&^ )^^ (25!zi >2i!zi !^!zi .s'fe Sio s? s^ "3- ^gf ir 1 ^-o^ Jziizi iziiz! !85!zi izJa 2r^ 1?. s? O U5 1-3? s? - rtl-t :? o ffl ^•^^ ^Jzi (25 J?! !^!^ ^\i °^^^ ©?3f a* 5,* ^ Ia" !Sf ^•ts ;27 o 55 1 ^ & ^-2^ o !^ o 5zi o &§b ^ & o ^ lO MS iH H • - • ^* ^' ^• 3 CO OQ m g • • ■ •« , •*3 4 1 , 1 \\ ^ V o H ll 1 || 1 j r§ ® 1 II 1 1 ^H ■3 ^H Cm : o • ^Eh •5 • HH "S Wh :g w« ^ i Ww ^ WW ^ ^ SZiod 1 S5ai 1 JZhQQ 1 ^od 1 ss ss d 5S CmC4^ OO MINIM 'f)NIHdS ■sannag •KKoxav l5 li 'I II l2? H *-i c« III III m :3S Ilf Digitized by LjOOQIC TRADE-WIND REGION— ATLANTIC. 15 This differs but elightly from Hobsbu&gh'b Table> derived from 100 royages made within th« range of the track of vessels outward and homeward bound between Ei^and and India :— - TUM DMmiD PBOK HoMBTOOH. j boS-y "of Period Of the Tear. T«deS. Northern boundary of the S.£. Trade-wind. Breadth of the intervening Zone. . ' O t 1. January, February, March . . i 5 36 N. 2. ApriJ, May, June 1 7 15 N. 3. July, August, September . . . 1 12 16 N. 4 October, November, December . 7 50 N. 1 1 46 N. 2 20 N. 3 15 N. 3 20 N. O 1 3 60 4 66 9 4 30 Annual Mean 1 8 14 N. 2 40 N. 5 34 In Tabl6 II. it will be noticed that the " breadth of zone " is sometimes marked C. and sometimes 0. and S. W. ; although this is the region of Equatorial Calms, yet a portion of this zone is, from May to November, occupied by the S.W. Monsoon, and during July, August, and September it may be found as far as the parallel of 8° to 10^ N. ; it is wedge-shaped, with its base resting on the African coast, and its ^Kx stretching to the meridian of 30° or 36^ W. X3« The 8.E Trade-wind blows with great regularity, and is generally more persis- tent than the N.E. ; its polar boundary is given below :— • Table III.— Showing the Polar Boundary of the 8,E. Trade Wind in the Atlantic Ocean. Long. SUXKEB. Jan., Feb., March. LatS. AUTUMW. April, May, June. WiNTBB. July, Aug., Sept. Lat.S. Lat. S. Spbivg. Oct., Nov., Dec. Lat. S. 45W. ■ 40 S5 30 I 25 % 16 , 10 I 5W. i 5E. 10 15 26} 26i 27-1 28 28 24J 26 23i 23 21i 23 281- 27i 29 26 23 25 25^ 26 23 25 28i 28} 24 23} 24} 28i 26 25i 20 lyi fi g^d by boogie 16 TRADE- WIND REGION— ATLANTIC. &€• The mean direction of the N.E. Trade-wind, in the Atlantic, between Lat. 5° N. and 30° N. is N. 5'^J° E. ; that of the S.B. Trade-wind, between Lat. 6° N. and 30° S. is S. 48° E. ; and it mnBt be remembered that between Lat. 6° N. and the Equator the N.E. Trade-wind does not blow for more than 85 days in the year. 15. These Tables (p. 13 to 15) may be aptly closed with Mauby's Scthmabt on THE N. Atlantic Tbade-Wind REaiow, in which, referring to the marked dif- ference in the prevailing direction of the wind, according to the season of the year, in the different parts of the ocean, he says that— " As a general rale it will be observed by the navigator— 1. That the nearer to the coast of Africa and to the Equator, the more the so- callod N.E. Trade- wind hauls to the South. 2. That to the west of Long. 45°, between Lats. 20° and 30° N., the N.E. Trades blow much more steadily in May, June, July, August, and September than they do the rest of the year; and that during the other months, but particularly in March, they blow, between these parallels, nearly alike from all points of the compass. 3. That between Lats. 15° and 20^ N. they are most variable west of Long. 35° in the months of September, October, and November; while between the same paral- lels, east of Long. 30°, they are most variable in February, March, April, and October. 4. That between Lats. 10° and 15° N., to the west of Long. 35° they are steadily between E.N.E. and S.E., except in July, August, September, October, and November, when they are more variable, but especially so in the three months first named. To the east of Long. 35°, between these parallels, they maybe said to lose their character as Trades during July, August, September, and October, — particularly in August and September— when they blow nearly alike from the four quarters. Calms, too, are more frequent here in these months. 5. That between the Equator and 10° N., to the east of Long. 35°, the winds assume a new feature. It may be said, almost literally, that in this part of the ocean they uniformly blow (when they blow at all), during July, August, and September, from some point between S.E. and W.; they blow most between South and W.S.W., and vary rarely from any point between North and E.S.E. To the west of the meridian of 35°, during the same months, they blow most between S.E. aad N.E., inclining more and more to the North as you go west ; and these are the months in which the winds vary most in this part of the ocean." The S.E. Trade-wind is generally more persistent, and blows with greater strength than the N.E. Trade- wind — hence it is of rarer occurrence for a captain to record in his journal " no S.E. Trade" than " no N.E. Trade ;" the " heart" of the S.E. Trade has been shown* to lie on each side of a line drawn from the Cape of Good Hope to the meridian of 36° W. on the Equator, — this is the track of all homeward-bound vessels that come from the Indian Ocean and China Sea^, and they seldom have to record, " no S.E. Trade ;" it is generally outward-bound vessels, and those coming from Australia and the Pacific, that are doomed to this experience, for, by having to shape their course on the S.W. flank of that " vein " of wind, they only fall in with it near the Equator ; all, however, are in the same category as regards the N.E. Trado. * See the reports of all homeward-bound East India and China traders ; and the notice of the tame by JANgKN, In Maury's ♦* Physical Geography of the Sea." Digitized by LjOOQIC TEADE-WINDS— PACIFIC. 17 It is scaroely necessary to make any remarks here on the Calm Belts of Canceb Axn Capbigout ; buty under all droumstanoes, endeavour to cross either the one or the other as direct as possible, never sailing (dong the line of one of these bands, nor even diagonaU^^ if the wind will permit of a more meridional course. X€m Thm Trmde-^nnOs In the Faellle Oeeani — A brief notice of the Trade« winds in the Pacific will complete our remarks on this subject. Table IV. is derived from the voyages of 92 vessels as determined by Kbbhallbt ; Table V. is derived from Maxtbt's "Nautical Monographs/' No. 1. Taslb Vf.— 'Showing the Distribution qf the N.E. and 8.E. Trades, and EqwUorial Calm Bells in the Pacific Ocean, Months , Polar Limit ofN.E. Trade-Wind Equatorial OfN.E. Trade- Wind Boundary ofS.K Trade-Wind Breadth of the Equatorial Calm Belt. Polar Limit ofS.E. Trade-Wind Lat. N. Iiat.N. Lat. N. Lat. S. January . February March . i^: -. June . . July . . August . . October . November December o / 21 28 28 29 30 29 6 27 41 31 43 29 30 24 20 26 6 26 9 24 o / 6 30 4 1 8 16 445 7 62 9 68 12 6 16 13 66 12 20 6 12 / 3 2 6 60 2 3 36 2 30 6 4 2 30 8 11 3 32 1 66 / 3 30 2 1 2 26 246 4 16 7 28 7 1 12 30 6 45 8 48 3 16 o / 33 25 28 61 31 10 27 26 28 24 26 26 28 24 18 24 61 23 27 28 39 20 30 1st Quarter ofTeai« *»d „ y, 3rd „ „ 44h „ „ 26 9 28 66 28 31 26 6 6 16 7 32 13 40 8 46 3 37 242 6 16 2 44 1 2 38 4 50 8 26 6 2 31 9 26 66 24 62 24 61 Yearly Mean . . 27 10 9 6 3 39 j 5 26 26 67 TiiLB Y. -Showing the Distribution of the N.E, and 8.E, Trades in the Pacific (in days, and as regards direction) between Lat. IQP- N. and the Equator. Buids in Latitude. No. of Mean Direction of the Wind. I>ayB No. of Obs. Lat 10^ to 6° N. 1 Kc of days . . lilt e'' N. to Eq. No. of days . . N.64°E. 143 N.67°E. 49 S. 44° E. 131 S. 44° E. 206 S.33°W. 64 S.30'W. 89 N. 46°W. 20 N.4a°W. 12 14 9 14,064 46,162 • Tkt MMoos canned U glrcii here, for the table appertains te both hemtopherei, c ^ tke MSBi MPT. Digitized by LrfOOglC 18 TEMPEEATUEE OF N. TOEEID ZONE. Thtfo TablMihow that though tha annual oicillation of the Trade-winds in the Pacific it not quita io gnat aa it ii in the Atlantic, still it is much more considerable; than is gtneraUy allowed ; and further, that* between Lat 10^ and S"" N.» the N.E. Trade can, on the average, be expected for only 9 days (the difference between 143 and 134 days) longer than the S.E. Trade, while between Lat. 5° N. and the Equator the S.B. Trade blows for nearly two-thirds of the year. According to Comkavdbb Mattbt, the S.W. Monsoon is better dereloped in the Pacific than in the Atlantic ; and the N.E. Trade-wind of the Pacific is better dere- loped than the S.E. Trade-wind of that ocean, or indeed than the N.E. Trade-wind of either the Atlantic or Indian Ocean. 17. The fact of the inner (or equatorial) boundary of the S.E. Trade* wind crossing the Equator and advancing into the Northern Hemisphere has been noticed by navi- gators firom an early date,-*-by Sellar in 1675, by Dampieb, by d'APE^s &c. ; now, it is well known to meteorologists that, owing to the preponderance of land in the Northern Hemisphere and the peculiar distribution of the Oceanic Cur- rents, the Equatob of Gbbjltest Heat is in that hemisphere, but far from being a regular line, parallel with the terrestrial equator. According to Dove* the mean temperature of the northern part of the torrid zone is as follows :— Months. Latitude. i 10° 20^ 3(f January . • February March . . April . . . Miy . . . June . . . July . . . August . . September . October . . November . December Therm. 7»*»° P. 80-a 80-8 81*3 80*2 79-9 78-6 78-8 790 790 79*7 79'S Therm. 77-2° P. 78-6 79-7 811 81*3 81*1 80-8 80-8 80-8 80*a 79*7 78-4 Therm. 70-OP 72-7 75-2 79-0 80-6 81-1 81*7 81*7 80'6 790 76-3 73-0 Therm. 68-6° P. 69-9 63-7 68-2 ' 73-6 77-2 ; 78-4 80-6 77-5 72-9 660 59-7 ] Winter Mean Spring „ Summer „ Autumn „ 80-1 80-5 78-8 79-3 78-8 81*2 80-8 7»*€ 72-6 80-2 81-3 761 60-7 1 730 78-8 66-2 Annual Mean 79-7 80-0 77-6. 69-7 This Table shows the position of the place of greatest rarefaction for the different months and quarters of the year. Thus, during the northern winter it is near the * ** Die Verbreltung der Wanne anf der Oberflache der Erde. lofths^Bsrtlk) Bsrfia. ISftS. (The Distribution of Jleat on Digitized by LjOOQIC WINDS OP THE INDIAN OCEAN. 19 &l««bQirr--atiriiifiP the epriog it haa advaaced to Lat. 6° and 10° N., reaching Lat. 10° to %f 1$( in smniner (Jolj and August), — after this its recession (southward) com* vofiea, \>eiDg found in Lat. 10° N. daring the autumn, as in spring,— and finally, t^paa aitamin^ the Equator in winter. This is precisely the march of the Equatorial Mi of Calms and of the inner boundary of the N.E. Trade-wind. ^meetben the inner boundaiy of theS.E. Trade-wind crosses the Equator and, from thennometrioal causes passes into the Northern Hemisphere, it must adTanoe more tad more north (aooording to the season) following the place of greatest rarefaction ; and as it advanoes, its direction must change to Bouth and S.W. because it is coDatBntly approaching parallels on the earth's sur&ce where the velocity of rotation b diounishing aa compared with the velocity of rotation at the Equator. Hence the origin of the S.W. Monsoon«-^ike in the Atlantic, Pacific and Indian Oceans-— but best developed in the latter. Similarly, a N.W< Monsoon originates from the N.E. Tnde-wind passing into the Bouthem Hemisphere. 18. WXMDS OF Tsa zmzAiT ocaaiT.— Gensbal BfiMASKS:— South* ward of the 30P parallel the N.W. Counter-Trades or " Passage Winds" are more or le«s prevalent throughout the year : between them and theS.E. Trade lies the Calra- belt of Capricorn. The S.E. Trade, as in the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, occupies the region from the Calms of Capricorn to within a few degrees of the equator — ^bnt undergoing in the Indian Ocean a slight modification on its northern border, ar'eording to the season of the year. The area northward of the S.E. Trade is oeeupied by the Monsoon Region. 19. Moasoone ai'e prevalent, between the tropics, in every ocean ; in the Atlantic and Pacific they occupy the place of the Trade- winds only at a certain distance from the land (100 to 300 miles)* and during certain seasons ; but in the northern Indian Ocean they are the characteristic winds, to which the Trades are subordinate. The distribution of land in the Indian Ocean differs widely from that id the other oceans. — ^As regards the Atlantic and Pacific, tho continents run north and south. In the Indian Ocean, on the north there is the great central Asiatic plateau fronted by the lofUest mountains in the world,— then the two slightly elevated table-lands of Persia and Arabia, void of rivers, and comparatively destitute of vegetation, — southward of these and advancing into the ocean is the Indian peninsula, of which the Malabar (or western) coast rises abruptly from the sea, whilst the slope on the Coromandel (or {^&tem) side is gradual;— on the N.E. is Birmah, the Malayan peninsula and China, — ^the China sea is bounded by mountains on the north and by the Filipino archipelago on tiie east ; — then come innumerable islands, many of which are lofty and mountainous ;*-fina1Iy , on the east of the Indian Ocean is the Australian continent, on tke west the African continent :-^it is this configuration of the land that has caused the Indian ocean to be regarded as only half an ocean, and it is this preponderance of the terrestrial over the oceanic element that disturbs the reguhirity of the Trade- winds and produces opposite seasons (wet or dry) to places even on the same parallel. Thas^ it is the preponderance of the land and the difference of temperature con- stantly exisUng between it and the neighbouring ocean which produce the season- breeses — known as Monsoons.t No other winds than these, and land and sea breezes, MoaiooDs are prevalent, in a modified form, alUce on the weft fOftit pf A(Vioa and the we^ ' of Aaeriea, during the summer of the region. ♦ Arabic, niau^m, seasoit digitized by L:iOOg IC 20 WINDS OP THE INDIAN OCEAN. are recognised in the China 8ea and Indian archipelago ; hut in the Indian ocean, the Monsoon region is limited to its northern part — extending from Lat. 13° or l(f S. to the Asiatic continent. Speaking in general terms, it may be said that, north of the equator, a north- easterly wind prevails when the sun has southern declination, and a south-westerly wind when the sun's declination is north,— the former is the N.E., and the latter the S.W. Monsoon of the r^on ; but between the equator and Lat. 12° S. aN.W. Mon- soon is prevalent when the sun has south declination, and a S.E. Monsoon when his declination is north : thus in each hemisphere there are two season-winds— of variable duration, according to the position of the place and the surrounding physical features ^— in no case does one Monsoon terminate abruptly and the other commence forthwith, but there is a period of change known as the hredkitig f^ of the Monsoon ; when one season^wind is about to cease it decreases in force and is occasionally replaced by calm ; the atmosphere at sea and on the land shows evidence of disturbance ; the sky is overcast and the aii* becomes sultry, oppressive, and foggy ; the clouds of the upper region move in the direction of the succeeding Monsoon ; and as the change progresses the wind becomes more and more variable. The following description of this phenomenon, " the breaking up of the Monsoon,'* is aptly depicted by Sib J. E. Tbhhbkt, in his work on " Ceylon."* '' Meanwhile the air becomes loaded to saturation with aqueous vapour drawn up by the augmented force of evaporation acting vigorously over land and sea : the sky, instead of its brilliant blue, assumes the sullen tint of lead, and not a breath disturbs the motionless rest of the clouds that hang on the lower range of hills. At length, generally about the middle of the month, but frequently earlier, the sultry suspense is broken by the arrival of the wished-for change. The sun has by this time nearly attained his greatest northern declination, and created a torrid heat throughout the lands of Southern Asia and the peninsula of India. The air, lightened by its high temperature and such watery vapour as it may contain, rises into loftier regions and is replaced by indraughts from the neighbouring sea, and thus a tendency is gradually given to the formatbn of a current bringing up from the south the warm, humid air of the Equator. The wind, therefore, which reaches Ceylon comes laden with moisture, taken up in its passage across the great Indian Ocean. As the monsoon draws near, the days become more overcast and hot, banks of clouds rise over the ocean to the west, and in the pecuHar twilight the eye is attracted by the unusual whiteness of the sea-birds that sweep along the strand to seize the objects flung on shore by the rising surf. " At last the sudden lightnings flash among the hills and sheet through the clouds that overhang the sea, and with a crash of thunder the monsoon bursts over the thirsty land, not in showers or partial torrents, but in a wide deluge, that in the course of a few hours overtops the river banks and spreads in inundations over every level plain. " All the phenomena of this explosion are stupendous ; thunder, as we are accus- tomed to be awed by it in Europe, affords but the faintest idea of its overpowering grandeur in Ceylon, and its sublimity is infinitely increased as it is faintly heard from the shore, resounding through night and darkness over the gloomy sea. The light- • - Ceylon : An soooimt of tiie Island— Physical, Historical, and Topoffimphlcsl, ftc." By Sir JamsB Bmerson Tennent. K.C.B. L.KD. (X%b9.). Digitized by LjOOQIC WINDS OF THE INDIAN OCEAN. 21 Difig, when it loaches the earth where it is covered with the dettcendiug torreut, Mies ioto it and diisappears instantaneously ; but when it strikes a drier surfaoe, in seeking better conductors, it often opens a hollow like that formed by the burstiD<; of a shell, and frequently leaves behind it traces of vitrification. In Ceylon, however, oocorrences of this kind are rare, and accidents are seldom recorded from lightning, probably owing to the profusion of trees, and especially of cocoa-nut palms, which, when drenched with rain, intercept the discharge, and conduct the electric matter to the earth. The rain at these periods excites the astonishment of a European ; it descends in almost continuous streams, so close and so dense that the level ground, unable to absorb it sufficiently fast, is covered with one uniform sheet of water, and down the sides of acclivities it rushes in a volume that wears channels in the surface* For hours together, the noise of the torrent as it beats upon the trees and bursts upon the roofs, flowing thence in rivulets along the ground, occasions an uproar that drowns the ordinary voice and I'enders sleep impossible/' aOb Before proceeding to give a detailed account of the winds in the different r^ons of the Indian Ocean, it may be useful to draw up a Bmnmary of llie Winds in tlie Xanaoon Seyloii ; they are as follow : — During the sumaek months of the Northern Hemisphere the S.E. Trade- wind is prevalent in the southern part of the torrid zone,*— and the S.W. Monsoon blows in full force in its northern part. During the wuiteb MonTfls of the Northern Hemisphere the N.W. Monsoon prevails in the southern part of the torrid zone,— and the N.E. Trade-wind is in full strength in its northern part. The N.E. Trade-wind, however, is, in these regions, called the N.E. Monsoon,— and the 8.E. Trade- wind, the S.E. Monsoon. As shown in sec. 19, p. 19, the N.E. Mon soon gradually and by degrees glides into the N.W. Monsoon, — and the S.E. Monsoon ioto the S.W. Monsoon. And thus the Monsoons of the Indian Ocean are not »eparaied by any such distinctly-de6ned belt of calms as is interposed between the Trade-winds of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. A Belt of Calm is to be found in the middle of the Indian Ocean, but it exists under different circumstances hem that in either of the two other oceans, — and its range is more varied, — as m%ht be expected where the winds are seasonal and not perennial. In the Spbikg and Autumn of the Northern Hemisphere — in the months when the Monsoons chapge — calms and variable winds prevail in the open ocean ; and daily iand-aDd-sea breezes along the coasts, from which, however, they extend but a few leagues ; as soon as the Monsoon becomes regular and blows in its strength the distinelive land-and-sea breezes may be said to cease. In this ocean tlie land-breeze BsuaDy commences about midnight and terminates at sunrise, — the sea-breeze bk>wing from about mid-day until near sunset ; both are moderate* but the sea-breeze h, much fresher than that from the land. The season of change from one Monsoon to the other varies in different parts of the Indian Ocean. This can be readily conceived from the physical characters (see see. 19, p. 19) to which we have already adverted ; being much more exposed than the other oceans to the disturbing influences consequent upon proximity to land^ * Tht torrid zone extendt; ftom Lat 28}'' N. to Lat. 23^° S., and may be oonsidered m divided faite two part«--« nortlieni and a soathem— Ujr the equator. Digitized by V^OOQ IC 22 WINDS OP THE INDIAN OCEAN. the winds are oonseqnently affected in a propoi-tiouate degree by local conditions. Thus the S.W. Monsoon stretchcB into the Northern Hemisphere much farther to the North (as far as Lat. 30°) than the N.W. Monsoon into the Southern Hemisphere. Along the Arabian and East African coasts, and also along the N.W. coast of Australia the Monsoons assume in each case a direction which is dependent on the contour of the land and the peculiar physical features of the interior of the con- tinents. In the Red sea the Monsoons blow alternately up and down, following the direction of the long, trough-like valley, within which the currents of air are ooufined. In no case is it correct to say that any one of these Monsoons blows for six months ; they may prevail each for five months, but in many places not for more than four months— the intervening period being characterized by variable winds, with alternating calms, or squalls, and occasional cyclones. The Monsoons of the Chiha Sea — (».e. N. of the Equator) — are not entii-ely similar to those of the Indian Ocean ; they may be divided into three periods— 1. The N.B. Monsoon, in October, November, December, and January,— changing in February. 2. The East Monsoon, in March and April,— changing in May. 3. The S.W. Monsoon, in June, July and August,— changing in September. In the Java Sea and among the islands of the Ikdiak AbchifeIiAOo (i.e. S. of the Equator) S.-Easterly winds prevail while the sun is in the Northern Hemisphere, and these are replaced by N.-Westerly during the stay of that luminary in the Southern Hemisphere ; the former are known as the East Monsoon and the latter as the West Monsoon — and are characteristic of all that region by which the South Pacific communicates with the Indian Ocean. Comparing together the seasons of the two tropics, the West Monsoon (S. of the Equator) corresponds with the N.E. Monsoon of the Indian Ocean and China Sea, — ^the East Monsoon is the repre- sentative of the S.W. Monsoon. 11. The Seaaoiia (wet and dry) within the Monsoon region are, in a great mca- sui'e, determined by the direction of the wind (i,e, whether the direction of the air- current has come over the land or over the ocean) ; or perhaps it would be more strictly accurate to say that they are concurrently dependent on the Monsoons and the lay of the land. The west coast of India (Mahibar coast) has its rainy season during the prevalence of the S.W. Monsoon i no portion of the rain at this season passes the Ghauts or central table land of India. Along the east, or Coromandel coast of this peninsula it is the N.E. Monsoon that brings rain, which waters the country to the summit of the eastern flank of the Ghauts. Thus the two coasts of the peninsula have their seasons reversed ; one has the dry season when the other has the rainy season, and reciprocally : similar facts appertain to all countries within the Monsoon region of the Indian Ocean, — and even in a diminished degree to tlie islands— especially such as Ceylon, Borneo, and those of the largest class. aa« We may appropriately close this chapter with the following Table of the Winds AND Calus in the Indian 0csan» from Maubt's " Nautical Monographs," No. 1 ;— it gives the total number qfohs&rvations in each hand qf latitude, the mean direction of the wind from each quarter, and the average annual duration qfeach wind in days. It is a table to which we shall have occasionally to refer. Digitized by LjOOQ IC WINDS OF THE INDIAN OCEAN. 23 Bands in Latitude. Mean direction of the Wind. No. of days of Calm. No. of Obs. . Lat 26'=' to 20° N. N.41°B. S.42°E. S. 43° W. N.40PW. No. of da)'s . . . 84. 54 148 66 13 1874 , Lat 20P to 16° N. N.42°E. 8. 47° E. 8. 46° W. N.44°W. 1 No. of days . . . 116 36 145 57 11 6800 Lat 16° to l(f N. N.46°E. 8.46°B. 8.47°W. N.46°W. No. of days . . . 127 52 123 51 12 7488 Lat, 10° to 6° N. . N.44°E. 8. 47° E. 8.50°W. N.52°W. No. of days . . . Lat 6° N. to Eq. . Ill 42 140 60 12 8841 N.41°E. 8. 41° E. 8.46°W. N.51°W. No. of days . . . 82 60 138 67 18 9869 LatEa.to5°S. . No. of days. . . N.46°E. S.4a°B. S.44°W. N.51°W. 49 124 96 71 25 14,264 Lat 6° S. to 10^ S. N. 63°E. S.48°B. 8.38°W. N.61°W. No. of days. . . Lat 10° S. to 16° S. 51 178 63 54 19 16.018 N.60PE. 8. 45° E. 8.41°W. N.50°W. No. of days . . . Latl6°S.to20PS. 37 241 47 27 18 18/328 N. 67°E. 8. 50° E. 8.34°W. N.46°W. No. of days. . . 43 272 34 10 6 17,340 Lat.20Pto26°8.. N.62^B. 8.40°B. 8.29°W. N.42PW. No. of days . . . 83 215 40 18 9 31,965 Lat 26° to 30° S.. N.64°E. S.48°E. S.36°W. N.40°W. No. of days . . . 108 146 62 89 10 38460 Lat30Pto36°S. . N.45°E. S.48°B. 8.44°W. N.48°W. No. of days. . . 75 84 113 83 10 26,249 •Lat36°to40PS. . N.3d°E. 8. 44° E. 8.41°W. N.51°W. No. of days . . . 4d 52 128 129 7 56,336 Lat 40P to 45° 8. . N.32°B. 8, 8»° E. 8.54°W. N.48°W. No. of days . • . 47 20 126 167 5 18,628 Lat46°to60P8.. N.38°E. 8. 49° E. 8.53°W. N.51°W. Vo. of days . . . 62 39 97 161 6 6333 CHAPTEB 111. WIin>8 IN THS HIDlitf OCEAK. M. The wxiTD Bsaioirg of the Indian Ooean may be classed under idva weU« maikfid besids, which, commencing from the south, are— 1. The Region of the N.W. Pabsagx- Winds, usually found to the south- ward of the 32nd parallel } 2. The B^on of 8.E. Tbadb-Wind, between 32° or 80° 8., and 12° to 10° 8. J 3. The R^n of the S.E. and N.W. Moysoov, between 12^ or 10^ 8. and the Equator or 3° N. ; 4. The Region of the N.E. and 8.W. MoirsooK between tiie Equator and the Amite Continent s— Badi of these mmd-regums will be treated separately, after which a general ileMiiyliuuof the iqhuU along the eooH will be given in detail. It may be as well, at this point, to draw attention to ^^^x\^^^^^^t^S^f^'^ 24 WINDS OF THE INDIAN OCEAN. DtAoUkVS OF THE WiNDS wLich have been prepared for this work : tliey are drawn for each of the four quarters of the year,— - Chabt Diagbah No. I. embracing October, November, and December. „ No. II. „ January, February, and March. „ No. III. „ April, May, and June. „ No. IV. „ July, August, and September. By this arrangement, Nos. I. and II. give the period of the N.E. Monsoon, and Nos. III. and lY. the period of the S.W. Monsoon. The direction of the arrows shows the pouU towards which the stream of air is moving » These diagrams are chiefly com- piled from the Boabd of Tbade and Maubt's Wind-Charts, modified by the observations contained in the Log-books in the possession of the Author, which con- tain about 300,000 eight-hourly observations. The area of the ocean is generally divided into squares of ten degi'ees of latitude and ten degrees of longitude, except where well-marked differences in th^ direction of the air-currents require a sub- division into squares of five degrees of latitude and lon^tude ; the numbering of the ten degree squares of the Board of Trade Wind Charts, has also been i-etained in the letter-press, for the purpose of reference. a*. Eeoiok of the N.W. PASSAaE-WiifDS— Southwabd of Lat. 32^ S. In the most southerly portion of this region, Le, in latitudes higher than 55° S. (the Polar region), winds from tlie N. and S. aie equally prevalent with a greater tendency to blow from the eastward during the summer (December to March), but from the westward during the winter (March to December). Between lat. 40° and 50° S. the winds are generally from tlie westward — between W.N.W. and W.S.W., the former predominating (see Table, p. 23); easterly winds are frequent during the summer, but calms and light baffling au-s ai*e rare; tlie storms of this region are at times very heavy and may be expected at any season. This part of the ocean is represented on the Cuabt Diaobams by areas Nos. 56 tu 65, both inclusive. Between Lat. 30^ and 40^ S. the winds are still, as a nJe, westerly, but the in- fluence of the African and Australian continents is very perceptible— as indeed is the effect of the warm current from the Indian Ocean — producing a diversion of the main stream of air towards the region of greatest rarefaction. This is well seen in the Chabt Diagbams, I., II., III., and IV. {areas Nos. 46 to 55, both inclusive) where, in mid-ocean, the prevalent winds may be said to be between N.W. and S.W, ; but on the African side of the ocean, westward of long. 70° E., easterly winds (E.N.E. to S.S.E.) are very common from November to March ; during April, Maj^, and June, these easterly winds scarcely extend beyond the 45th meridian, and during July, August, and September, they are very rarely experienced. Similarly, the areas in the vicinity of the Australian continent are characterized by vrinds between WJ^'.W. and S,S.W.— drawing towards and along the land. Easterly winds may, however, be expected more or less along the whole of this band (kt. 30° to 40° S.) during the Southern summer— December to February. Between the parallels of 25° and 35° S. is situated the polar boundary of the S.E. Trade-wind, oscillating with the march of the sun in declination ; between these parallels is also the place of the Calm bahd of Capbicobn— its mean position and average breadth being shown on the Chabt^Dia^bams, as well as its tendency to Digitized by L^OOQlC WINDS OP THE INDIAN OOEAN. 26 a|ud, where it nears the African coast: by reference to Table, p. 23, it will be KOI that in thia band there are 10 calm days in the year, on an average. Between Lit 35"^ and 40P S. the N. W. and S.W. winds blow an equal number of days (129 CMh),— the S.W. predominating over the N.W. between Lat. 35° and 30° S. in the raUo of 113 to 83. Considerable unsteadiness in the S.E. Trade is shown on Its polar limit between 30° and 25° S., by not being, prevalent more than 146 days, wbSk whdds between N. and E. are experienced for 108 days. 25. The Kboion of ths S.E. Toadb-wind. The region of the S.E. Trade-wind in the Indian ocean is comprised between the Cahn Belt of Capricorn and Ut. 12° to 10° S. (See ChabtIDiagbams I., II., III., IV., «mu 30 to 36, and 38 to 44); the area of the ocean between 50° E. and the African coast is only partially affected by this wind, — ^the disturbing cause being the hifl^ land of Madagascar in close proximity to the African continent ; but the greatest modification of the Trade-wind occurs in the Mozambique Channel, as will be shown presently. The S.E. Trade-wind does not touch the west coast of Australia — ^the general winds on that side of the Southern Indian Ocean, and for fully 400 miles from the land, being from N.N.W. to S.S.W. according to the season. ac Off ths Caps of Goob Hops and the Eastbbn Coast of South Afbica. Lat. 60° S. to the Equatob, Loho. 16° to 60° E. A glance at the four Chabt Diagbams will convince the reader that there are at least three systems of winds pi'evalent, more or less, over the oceanic area bounded by the Equator and Lat. 60^ S., and by the meridians of 10° and 60^ E. One of a very peculiar character sweeps from the neighbouriiood of Cape Agulhas to the nurthem port of Mozambique, and this, with but slight interruptions, is maintained all iAe year round ; it appears closely to follow the coast-line,— -or more properly speaking, the line of table-land, which runs nearly parallel with the coast, and at a distance from it of about 100 or 150 miles. This air-current terminates in the dimmer (Southern Hemisphere) near the centre of the Mozambique Channel : in the winter it is continued to the Equator. The northem part of the area, skirting the African coast, is clmracterized during the southern summer, from October to March, by N.E. winds, but winds from E.N.E. aie found as high as 30° S. lat. during the six months : during the succeeding six raontha these winds are replaced by the S.E. trade. It will be seen on Chabt Diaobahs Nos. I. and II. that dm'iug the six mouths of frammer, in the northem part of the Mozambique Channel, there is a point of con- Tctgence of the winds which sweep along the eastern coast of Africa, — in fact, that in this immediate locality there hi a rarefying surface producing, in all probability, an aseeoding and upward current ; notwithstanding that a N.E. wind penetrates to the panDd of Cape Corrientes, during the mouths of October to December, the directions of tiie arrows on areas Nos. 38 and 31 indicate that the wind along the eastern coast of Africa really converges to the north of the Mozambique, and that there N.E. and S.Vr. corrents meet and ascend — and, as a con^uence, frequent calms ensue in that p«t In liie Mozambique Channel it is difficult to say what Monsoons are prevalent ; V«i thrt whkh goes under the name of the N.E» is variable between N.E. and N.W.-* Digitized by LjOOQIC 26 WINDS OP THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN. it oommenoes in Norember and ends in March : variable winds are more freqnent in the flonthem part of the channel daring this season than in the northern, for to the north of Mozambique the winds are generally from N.E. to N., accompanied with rain and sqnalls. At the southern entrance to the channel the variable K.E. to N. W. winds not nnfrequently encounter the fresh S. and S.E. winds blowing on the south coast of Madagascar; under these circumstances severe gales of the rotatory type may be experienced, and the navigator should be prepared for them. This is the rainy season in the Mozambique Channel. The so-called S.W. Monsoon commences in the Mozambique Channel in April and terminates towards November ; this is the fine season. At the southern entrance to the channel the winds are S. and S.S.W., becoming' more westerly towards the northern entrance, and finally uniting with the S.W. Monsoon, which is at thin season prevalent over the northern part of the Indian Ocean : but at times these winds are variable, as, for instance, from S.W. to S.E. and E.S.E. — ^thoee from the last direction being squaUy and strong off the south end of Madagascar. Near the coast of Africa this is the period of land*and-8ea breezes. In mid-channel both Monsoons are more regular than along the coast. South of the parallel of 30° S. is the general region of the N.W. " passage-winda t" these also require a separate quarterly notice ; they are of gpreat importance to all commanders sailing to Australia, as the track to that important colony lies through the heart of these winds, and the voyage to India and China is also accelerated by pursuing this track. We have already alluded to E.N.E. winds being found as high as 80° S. lat. (see Chabt Diagbah No. I., areas 38, 39). On the same Chabt Diaobav, areas 4t7, 48, 49 are characterized by W.S.W. winds — exactly the opposite; here to all intents and purposes there is an ascending current, and it would appear that the surface of the ocean in the neighbourhood of the parallel of 30^ S. and between long. 30° and 50° E. becomes during the three months, October to December, sufficiently heated, as compared with localities north and south of it, to produce an indraught of cooler ur from E.N.E. and W.S.W. This does not occur in the more open spaces of the Indian Ocean to the eastward. It is in the neighbour- hood of the parallels 30° to 35° S. that Con. Mattbt pkces the Calms of Capricorn, and it is well known that he explains these, as well as the Calms of Cancer, by a descending current or rather by two descending currents resulting from the meeting of two opposite currents in the upper regions of the atmosphere, which come out on the surface, as two opposite winds blowing avjayfrovn each other, thus «-hs - »-» The second meteorological axiom announced by Capt. Chables Wilkes, U.S.N., in his " Theory of the Wind," is as follows : " that if the atmosphere is disturbed by any change of temperature, the denser and colder portions seek the warmer, from every direction, to restore the equilibrium in the most direct lines it can follow** * It is not intended on this occasion to enter into any examination of the controversy between Com. Maubt and Caft. Wilkbs; our object is of a more practical nature — ^to show the navigator the principal winds he may meet with, in various localities, as he prosecutes his voyages, and the connexion that exists between these winds and certain other physical phenomena, by which he may the more readily take advantage of each winds as may be suitable for his purpose. In immediate connexion with the locality under consideration, HoBSBUBeH has this rraaark : " Tha late Capt. J. Wilsok, of the Company's ship Sythe, a very sdoitifio officer, has ascertamed by careful observation that the temperatere/oHhe osii^ra/ WINDS OP THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN. 27 ptit of the stream of westerly eairent which prevails upon the verge of Cape Agolhas bnk* is about 8^ or 9^ higher than that of the sea beyond the stream of cnrrenty nd aa the maximmn of temperatore is in the middle of the stream of cnrrent, a ship may be kept in it by attending to changes of temperature in the surface water, and hereby be enabled to accelerate her progress to the westward during adverw winds." M AUST, in his " Physical Geography of the Sea," edition 1864, page 195, seetions 393-4^ speaking of a current of warm water in the Indian Ooean, says, " There is some* times, if not always, another exit of warm water from the Indian Ooean. It seems to be an overflow of the great intertropical caldron of India, — seeking to escape tboiee, it works its way polarward, more as a drift than as a enrrent : this Indian overflow is very large . . . and finds its way south, midway between Africa and Australia, and appears to lose itself in a sort of Sargossa Sea,' thinly strewed with patches of weed. Nor need we be surprised at such a vast flow of warm water as these ikres currents indicate from the Indian Ocean, when we recollect that this oesan is land-locked on the north, and that the temperature of its waters is frequently as higb as 90^ Fahr. There must therefore be immense volumes of water flowing into the Indian Ooean to supply the waste created by these warm currents. "On either side of this warm current that escapes from the intertropical parts of tiie Indian Ocean, but especially on the Australian side, an ice-bearing current is found wending its way from the Antarctic regions with supplies of cold water to modify dimatee and restore the aqueous equilibrium in that part of the world." On turning to the chart of sea drift (Currents of Indian Ocean), we find indicated a stream of warm water flowing from the eastward between Australia and Borneo ; this is divided into three branches ;— one goes north to the Arabian Sea and Bay of Bei^l, at least during a part of the year ; another goes south, to the Sargossa Sea before spoken of ; and a third moves west,-— a prolongation of this forms the Agolhas current before mentioned : and as the temperature of the central part of tins current is 8^ or 9^ higher than that of the water on either side, so it is to be mfened, and most probably such inference is not far from the truth, that the Indian Ooean is paitelled out by these currents into portions of warm and cold, or at least cos/ water. We have now only to apply Wilkss' axiom before quoted, and we see at onoe, that according to this axiom, the wind must blow from the oookr towards the wanner areas ; such a warm area most probably exists in the neighbourhood of SOP 8. between the areas Nos. 88, 89, and 40 on the north, and areas 47, 48, and 49 on the south ; in feet, this supposed warm area is in the line of the ioarm water euneutt* Whatever evidence may exist in support of Mattby's idea, that the Calms of G^rieoni and Cancer are produced by opposite winds meeting in the higher regions ^the atmosphere and seeking the surface by a downward current^— A^«, in the region of the southern calms, there is evidence of at least one movement of an oppo^ Hte character, — ^for the meeting of the B.N.E. and W.S.W. winds could not result in any way fimn a descending current, nor is it easy to' see how \wo parallel but epposiieiy directed currents could be produced by such means; the current exhibited CD the Chaet Dulobax being of this character, as will be shown ftuiher on. To pneead with tiie analysis of wmds ;— Buing tlie next three months, $.«. iiom January to March, the same opposition of ^ UI.E. and W.8W. winds obtain, although somewhat eonsideraUj modified by 28 WINDS OF THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN. the position of the 8UD|-^ee Chart Diagsam No. II. Between Lat. 20^ and 4fO° 8, (in arew Nos. 40, 49, and 48) the prevalent winds are from E.N.E. or N.N.E., while in area No. 39 and also in 49 we have it from E.S.E. It is in the parallels hetween 4ff and 60^ S., that the opposing wind from W.S.W. occurs, and this wonld indicate that the partial helt, or zone of warm water, ahove mentioned, had receded firam the Equaior with the eun. Daring the winter season in the southern hemisphere, this peculiar arrangement of the winds, arising from the presence of warm and cold water, disappears. Between April and Jane the S.E. Trade is fully eatahlished over the northern part of Chabt DijLGBAU No. III.,— and the hreadth of the sweep of winds along the African coast is greatly augmented; it may be seen stretching as far as areas 49 and 39, and the arrow in 40 clearly shows the tendency of the stream of air to the great rarefying surface of the central part of South Africa. During the months of July, August and September, — ^the Southern winter — ^a very remarkable arrangement of the wind occurs, as seen in Chaat Diaosam IV. Taking the space between lat. 20° and 30° S. as a sort of central area, we have tlie winds blowing towards the north on the north of it, and towards the south on the south of it ; — those blowing towards the north are clearly the S.E. Trade, which at this season reaches the Equator as the S.E. Monsoon. It would appear that some powerful force exists at this period of the year, coneiderabfy to the south of Africa, and that this force draws the air from the north of 30° S. (area 40) in a curved sweep touching the southern extremity of Madagascar (area 39) and merging into a general N.N.E. current, as seen in areas 48, 68, and 39; how far this nortlierly cur- rent extends, or in what it results, we have at present no evidence to show, except that it probably has its explanation in the warm water current, which flows almost due south on the meridian of the Cape at this period of the year. We have thus noticed the three principal systems' of winds, as indicated by the CuABT DiAGBjiif 8 ; there is, however, another feature of no little interest, exhibited on all the diagrams; it is a kind of out'hloto in the neighbourhood of the Cape of Qood Hope, as shown by tlie arrows in the upper corners of areas 46 and 47 ; the different directions of the arrows clearly indicate the coldness of the land in the neighbourhood of the Cape and of Sonth Africa, as compared with the warmth of Uie adjoining waters. It is probable that this out*blow, which is seen on the four Chabt DijLGBAMS, and consequently exists all the year round, is occasioned in some degree by the current of cold water which Caft. Sib Jaubs Clabkb Boss found running in a northerly direc- tion along the west coast of Africa. We give the following abstract from that officer's journal. '' March 7. A gradual diminution of temperature of air and sea as wc approached the coast of Africa. — At midnight, entered a cold mist,— water discoloured, but no soundings with 130 fathoms of line." « March 8. Latitude 32° 21' S., Longitude 17° 6' E.— 45 miles fi-om Paternoster Point,— soundings 127 fathoms.-— Expected an elevation of temperature, both of air and sea, on approaching the African coast, by reason of the radiation of heat from its shores,— by 1 p.m. the temperature of the sea had fallen from 70° to 56.6°, that of the air being 65°.— The cause of the depression of temperature became evident on sighting Cape Paternoster, for a current increasing in strength and coldness as we neared the land was found to exist. The following is a summary of the exnerimenta Digitized by VjOOxI^ I I ' -[ITigitizea-by VjOO^LC •- -* WnH*^«^»*,DECE«» WINDS OF THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN. 29 OQ it : The cnrreTit barely reaohea 40 miles from shore— where the sea is more thau 300 fathoms deep— but spreads over doable that distance in shallower parts ;— 45 miles from land, at a depth of 120 fathoms, the temperature of the water was 40°, that of the rar&oe being 56° ; and GO miles oiT land, at 200 fathoms, it was 43*5°, the snrfiioe beiog61°; — ^thns a northerly current of very limited extent, but of considerable force, existi from the Cape of Qood Hope along the west coast of Africa, which in general tcnns may be represented by a volume of water 60 miles wide and 200 fiithomsdeep, areiaging a yelocity of a mile an hour .... running between the shores of Africa and the waters of the aflfjacent sea. The mist which hangs over the stream of rdd water is occasioned by the condensation of the vapour of the superincumbent atmosphere whose temperature is generaUy so many degrees higher than that of the sea." The temperature of the atmosphere first quoted is 65°, that of the surface being 8*6® lower ; at 45 miles from land we find the surface temperature also 56°, but at 60 miles, i.e, 15 miles further, it is as high as 61° ; it is probable the temperature in* creased still farther out at sea, so that the natural effect of the heated sea-water (adjacent to the cold current) would be to draw the air from the coast, i,e, to produce the westers part of the out-blow noticed, the eastern part being due to the general westerly current* Having sketched out the general distribution of the winds in the western part of the southern Indian Ocean, the next consideration is to specify the phenomena of each area of ten degrees square, and in so doing first to pass in review the stream of air sweeping along the eastern coast of AMcai — ^uext, the opposing winds in the neighhourhood of the dOth parallel,— and lastly the S.E. Trade. Chabt Diaobam Ko. I., October, November, December. (The Southern Spring.) Windt along the Eastern Coast qf Africa .— • 465. Area included between Lat. 30^ and 35° S., Long. 15° and 20° E. Prevailing windi S.6.E. Frequent winds, E.S.E.-^.E.— S,S.E. (442.) The wind in this area blows mostly towards and along the land. 4&;. Area included between Lat 35° and 40^ S., Long. 15° and 20° E. Prevailing wind, W.N.W. Frequent winds, S.S.E.— S.S.W.— W.S.W. (442.) The prevailing wind in this area is a portion of the general stream from westward between the paralldBofda'and40°S. ^. Area included between Lat. 30° and 40° S., Long. 20° and 30^ E. Prevailing wind, W.S.W. Frequent wmds, S.S.W.— W.N.W.— E.S.E. (441.) Here there is an indi- cation of the stream of air sweeping round the southern part of Africa, as well as a tendency to the area of heated water mentioned on p. 27; the E.S.E. wind is in the direction of the same wind that blows outward from the land in area No, 46. 3M. Area included between Lat 25° and 30° S., Long. 36° and 40° E. Prevailing winds, S.S.W.— S.S.E.— E.N.E. P*^*"^*"*?^?** the wocd * area" refer to the numberB on the Chart Diaobams whieh tWt wortc •, the aambera in braeketa are those on the 3oard of Tr»ae Wind Chartt, Digitized by LjOOQIC 80 WIND8 OP THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN. Frequent wincLs, N.N.E.— E.S.E. (404.) In this area the wincb generally set towarde the African ooaat» although one of the prevailing winds is along shore* this is very similar to the winds in the adjoining area, and is in decided contrast with those in area No. 48, wheie the set is outwardi from the land. d8r. Area included between Lat 25'' and 30^.S., Long. 30"" and de"" E. Pievailing wind, S^.W. Frequent winds, £JbI.E.—£.N.E. (404.) 88&. Ana included between Lat. 20"" and 25" S., Long. 35'' and 40° E. PrsFailing wind, N.E. Frequent winds, S.— ^.S.£. and E. (404.) The winds from the eaeUeard seem to indicate a point of convergence or rarefaction on this part of the African continent, die. Area included between Lat. IS"" and 20"" S., Long. 40° and 45° £. Prevailing wind, S.S.E. Frequent winds, 8.--S.S.W.-^.W.— N.N.E. (367.) 31(7. Area included between Lat. 10° and 15° S., Long. 40° and 45° £. Prevailing wind, N.N.W. Frequent wind, E.N.E. (367.) 31&. Area included between Lat. 10° and 15° S.| Long. 45° and 50° £. Prevailing wind, N.E. Frequent winds, S.E.— B.S.E.— B.--N.N.E. (367.) In the three latter areae we see the play of the winds in tbe northern part of the Mozambique Channel. In area 31a the prevailing wind is otUward from the land, but in the other two towarde it. Areas 31a and 815 are subject to fi'e^iuent calms. The so-called N.I!, Monsoon ;— 22rf. Area included between Lat. 5° and 10° S., Long. 35° and 40° E. Prevailing wind, N.E. Frequent winds, S.E.— E.— E.S.E. (332.) Stream of air from eastward. 23. Area included between Lat. 0° and 10° S., Long 40° and 50° E. Prevailing wind, N.E. and S.S.E. Frequent winds, N.N.E.—E.N.E.—E.— E.S.E.— S.B.—S. (331.) In thiR area the set of the wind towards the land \& unmistakeable. Calms are very frequent during the three months. Similar remarks appertain to areas 31a and 315, to which the N.E. Monsoon probably extends. Opposing currents of air in the neighbourhood of 30^ B .— 39. Area included between Lat. 20° and 30° S., Long. 40° and 50° E. Prevailing wind, E.N.E. Frequent winds, S.S.E.— S.E.— E.S.B.— E.— N.B.— N.N,E. (403.) 40, Area included between Lat. 20° and 30° S., Long, 50° and 60° E. Prevailing wind, E.N.E. Frequent winds, E.S.E.— E.-N.E.— N.N.E. (402.) It will be observed that in area No. 39 there is a greater spread of wind tban in area 40; in both, however, the general stream is from eastward; and probably as it approaches the land it is more divided, being subject to more numerous influenceiL Digitized by LjOOQIC WINDS OP THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN. 81 4& Aiea indnded between I^t. 30° and 40° 8., Long. 30° and 40° B. Prevailing wind, W.S.W. Frequent winds, SiJ.W.-^S.W.— W.N.W.— N.N.W.—N.N.B. — E.N.E. (440.) 49. Aiea included between Lat. 30° and 40° 8., Long. 40^ and 50^ £. Prerwliflg wind, WJ&.W. Frequent wind*, S.S.W.— W.N.W.— N.N.W.— N.N.B. (439.) 30. Aiea indnded between Lat. 30° and 40° S., Long. 60° and 60° B. Fjpevaiixng wind, N.N. W. Frequent winds, S.S.E.— S.S.W.— W.S.W.— W.N.W. (438.) The direction of the arrows in the three last areas indicate a general movement of the air from the wesitoard, and consequently in a nearly opposite direction to the movement of the air in areas 39 and 40. The movement of the air in area 38 is foeeinely of the same character as in areas 39 and 40, viz., from the eastward, while that in area 47 is of the same character as the movements in 48, 4Q, and 60; it is dear, therefore, that to the south of Lat. 30° S. we have generally an opposite stream of sir to that immediately north of the same parallel. The wind in area No. 48 blows during the three months almost directly along and omtwards from the knd, and the same directions are preserved (nearly) in area No. 49. In area No. 50 it is altered, the general winds being from N.N.W. to W^.W., although the prevailing wind is towards N Jl^.W. The winds in areas 68, 69, and 60 are very simikr in their character to those in areas 46^ 49, and 60, as will be seen below. 68. Area included between Lat. 40^ and 60° S., Long. 30° and 40° B. Prevailing wind, W.S.W. Frequent winds, N.N.W.--W.N.W.— N JJ.B. (476.) 69. Area included between Lat. 40° and 60° S., Long. 40° and 60° E. Prevailing wind, W.S.W. and W.N.W. Frequent winds, N.N.W. (476.) 60. Area included between Lat. 4ff and 60° S., Long. 60° and 60° £. Prevailing wind, W.N.W. Frequent winds, W.S.W— N.N.W. (474.)— The wind in areasMb,&7a,57b, is part of the same N.W*ly stream of air. 56b, Area included between Lat. 40° and 45° S., Long. 15° and 20^ £. Prevailing wind, N.N.W. Frequent winds, S.W.^W.S. W.— W.— W.N.W. (478.) 57a. Area included between Lat. 40° and 46° 8., Long. 20° and 25° E. prevailing wind, W, Frequent winds, SJSW,— W.N. W.— N.N.W. (447.) 576. Area included between Lat. 40° ond 46° S., Long. 26° and 30° E. Prevailing wind, W.S.W. Frequent winds, W.N.W., N.N.E., and N.N.W. (477.) The last two are, however, far less common than the prevalent W.S.W. to W.N.W. winds, ne SaiUh East Trade. The only instances of the S.E. Trade during the three months occur in areas '24 and 32. In the first (or northern) of these areas the prevalent wind is S.» IS the southern it is BJ^ Digitized by (^OOQ IC 32 WINDS OF THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN. 24. Area included between Lat. 0° and 10° S., Long. 50^ and 60° E. Prevailing wind, S. Frequent winds, S.B.— S.W.— W.— N.B (330.) 326. Area included between Lat. 10° and 15° S., Long. 66° and 60° E. Prevailing wind, S.E. (366.) 32. Area included between Lat. 10^ and 15° S., Long. 55° and 60° E. Previdling wind, E. Frequent winds, N.E.— N. (366.) a&e. Area included between Lat. 15° and 20° S., Long. 55° and 60° E. Prevailing wind, E. Frequent winds, E.S.E.— E.N.E.— N.E. (366.) 40. Area included between Lat. 20^ and 30° S., Long. 50° and 60° E. Prevailing wind, E.N.E. Frequent winds, E.S.E.— E.— S.E.— S.S.E. (402.) %. Area included between Lat. 20" and 30° S., Long. 40° and 50° E. Prevailing wind, E.S.E. Frequent winds, S.S.B.— E.— E.N.E.— N.E.— N JT.E. (403.) ^milar remarks to those made on the spring wind (October, November, Decern - ^) will apply to January, February, and March, for areas 40 and 39. 4a Area included between Lat. 30° and 40° S., Long. 30° and 40° E. Prevuling wind, E.N.E. Frequent winds, N.N.E. — E.S.E. — S.S.E. — S.S.W. — W.S.W. (440.) Boring the summer months (January, February, March) the general blow of the winds in this area is nearly the opposite to that which is recorded for p Digitized by VjOOQ IC 31 WINDS OF THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN. October, November, and December. On ptge 31 it in noticed that in area No. 48 the winds blow outwards from the land daring the spring months. In the summer they blow inwards, towards and along the eoast of Africa ; in fhot there are two distinct systems traceable^that along the African coast, and a general stream from the eastward, gradually becoming north-easterly. 49. Area included between Lat. 30° and 40^ S., Long. 40° and 60° E. Prevailing winds, N.N.E. and S.S.W. Frequent winds, E.S.K— B.N.E.-S.S.E.— W.S.W.— NJ^.W.— W.N.W. (439.) The numerous arrows inscribed on this area are suffiment to show that the locality is subject to great variations in the direction of the wind during the three summer months. There is, however, a preponderance towards the African coast, and this combined with one of the prevalent windn coming from N.N.E., will enable us to include it in the stream of air shortly to be noticed blowing in a somewhat contrary direction to that sweeping along the coast. On the whole, the winds in this area during the southern rammer are very variable, and of all the areas between Lat. 0° and 60^ S., Long. 10° and 60° E., this is the most likely one in which vessels either outward or home* ward bound may fall in with h^ad winds daring the three months: — ^If pro- ceeding towards the Mauritius, a head wind may be experienced from E.N.E. or thereabouts ; if coming eastward round the Cape, the head wind may be W.S.W. ; the chances are, that the wind may spring up from almost any of tlie other six points recorded above as frequent winds, but with no degree of certainty from either N.N.E. or S.S.W. It may be regarded, therefore, as a tedious area to sail across, owing possibly to this fact, that when the sun takes up his position over the southern tropic, the heated water (allnded to on page 27) advanoea towards the south, giving an almost entirely new direction to the winds of areas Nos. 49 and 48, and creating streams of air the tendency of which is to oppose one another. It would, however, be better to trim the ship to sail on the best course compatible with the general sweep of wind, which we now proceed to notice. Westerly Winds South of Lat, 40° fif. :— 665. Area inchided between Lat. 40° and 46° S., Long. ] 6° and 90^ E. Prevailing wind, W.S.W. Frequent winds, W.N.W.— N.N.W. (478.) 67. Area included between Lat. 40^ and 60° S., Long. SOP and 30° E. Prevailing wind, W.N.W. Frequent winds,S.S.W.—W.S.W,—N.N.W.—N.—N.N.E.—E.N.E.(477.) 68. Area induded between Lat. 40^ and 60° S., Long. 30^ and 40° E. Prevailing wind, W.S.W. Frequent winds, S.8.W.— W.N.W.— N.N.W.— N.N.E. (476.) 69. Area included between Lat. 40^ and 60° S., Long. 40° and 60° £. Prevailing wind, W.S.W. Frequent winds, W.N.W.— N.N.W. Occasionally, N.N.E. (476.) 6a Area included between Lat. 40^ and 60^ S., Long. 60^ and 60° E. Prevailing wmd, N.N.W. Frequent winds, W.S.W.— W.N.W. (474.) ^ i Digitized by VjOOQ IC I >\ : i J ! ; ♦ i'. ; I •i • * I ^ * .1 ..pn^>..'>t..-».| •(Htf ■ ''.l-'jii: -N* ■digitized by_VJ_v7L. GooQie wnfD c lAY.JUW WINDS OP THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN. 35 The general direction of the wind in the above five areas is from W.N.W. to \F.S.W., in comparison with which scarcely any winds are experienced from the esBtern horizon. The only well-marked instance of a series of winds opposite to those from W.N.W. — ^viz. E.S.E. — is fonnd in area 48 ; the phenomena are, how- ever, incompatible with the notion of a descending current, resnlting from opposite streams of air. In area 50 there is a somewhat similar play of winds to that in area 49, and the ▼ell-marked distinction between an easterly and westerly movement at this season probably commences in the fonner area, or perhaps it would be better to regard areat 60 and 49 as of an intermediate character, separating the easterly current to the north, and the westerly current to the sonth. The winds are as mider. 60. Area included between Lat. 30° and 40° S., Long. 60^ and 60° E. Prevailing wind, N.N.W. Freqiient winds, partaking of the westerly movement, W.N.W.— W.S.W. — S.S.W. Frequent winds, partaking of the easterly movement, S.S.E. — E.S.E. — B.N.E.— N.N.E. (438.) It will be observed that the prevalent winds of areas 60 and 60 are identical, — they would indicate that, in addition to the two streams above alluded to, a stream of air towards S.S.E. existed in these areas during the three months : indeed, refer- ring to Chabt Diaosam No. I., area 50, it appears that, more or less, during the goutkem summer, the wind has a tendency to blow in this direction. l%e N. W, Monsoon : — ^There is only one more area to notice, — 24, Lat. 0^ to 10^ S., Long. 50° to 60° E., the prevalent wind of which is N.W., — the remaining winds bear but a small proportion to this, which is the characteristic wind of the Allusion is made to the change in the direction of the wind that is effected over the area embraced by that part of the Chabt Diagbahs during the winter season of the southern hemisphere, as compared with the summer, more especially as regards the establishment of the S.E. Trade, embf acing the western portion of the Southern Indian Ocean to the Equator, — and also the remarkable influenoe which is exerted on the fo-called N.W. passage winds to the south-eastward of the Cape of Qood Hope, particularly during the months of July, August, and September. Chabt Diagbah No. III., April, May, June. (The Southern Autumn.) Winds along the Southern and Eastern Coasts of Africa ;— The augmentation of the number of areas in which this coasting wind is found, during the months of April, May, and June, shows most distinctly that not only is its prevalence increased, but it extends much farther from the shore than at other seasons. It is during the southern autumn, therefore, that the mariner may expect to find this particular wind not only sweeinng over a greater extent of surface, but ni«t probably blowing witli greater strength. 4». Area included between Lat. 80° and 36° S., Long. 16° and 20P E. PrevuUng wind, E.S.E. (442.) Other winds, chiefly between S.S.E. and W.N.W., may be expected, but are insigniiieantas compared with the E.9 JS. wind, which blows outward from the I>2 Digitized by Google 80 WINDS OF THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN. 4nrf. Area included between Lat. 35^ and 40- S., Long. 15*^ and 20^ E. Prevailing winds, S.S.W. and W.S.W. Frequent winds, N.N.E. — E.S.E.— S.E.— S.S.E.— S.— S.S.W.— S.W.- W.S.W.— W.—W.N.W. (442.) Although the winds in this area are so numerous, yet the previiiliug direction is towards the Cape ; from the great spread of the wind in this area it Ls not at all unlikely that a stream sets from the southward towards the Cape, and that, as it approaches the land, it is divided into two branches, one passing outwards toward the N.W., the other outwards toward the N.E. ; this kind of movement is shown on the Chjlbt Diaoba^, and it is more or less established from Januai'y to June in- clusive (Le, during the summer and autumn months), while the sun is rece- ding from the southern tropic. In anticipation of any remarks to be offered on this area, when treating of Chabt Duo BAM No. IV., it may be here observed, that during the months of July, August, and September, the direction of the wind in area 46(2 is so altered, as to blow rather along than towards the land. This fact is worthy of notice, because it may be seen by reference to the four Chabt Diagbams that during nine months of the year — between Lat. 35° and 40° S., Long. 15° and 20° E.— the wind blows almost directly towards the southern extremity of the African continent ; but before it arrives there, it diverges into two well-marked streams — one towards W.N.W. or N.W., the other towards E.S.E., while there is also, from October to June, a general ten dene j' of the wind toioards the land. 57flr. Area included between Lat. 40° and 45° S., Long. 20° and 25 E. Prevailing wind, W.S.W. Frequent winds, S.S.W.— E.N.E. (477.) hlh. Area included between Lat. 40° and 45° S., Long. 25° and 30° E. Prevailing wind, W. Frequent winds, W.S.W.~-E.N.E.—N.N.E.— W.N.W. 68flf. Area included between Lat. 40° and 45 S., Long. 30° and 35° E. Prevailing wind, S.W. Frequent winds, W.S.W.— W.— N.N.E. (476.) 47. Area included between Lat. 30° and 40° S., Long. 20° and 30° E. Prevailing wind, W.N.W. Frequent winds, W.S.W.~-W.— S.S.W.— N.N.E. (441.) The direction of the pi-evailing wind is that of the general sweep of the so-called N.W. passage winds, while the directions of the frequent winds are more or less in accoi*dance with the sweep round the African coast. The N.N.E. stream is also obser- vable ; — there arc more calms met with in this than in the ncighboui*ing areas. The sun is now north of the Equator, and the general stream of air is from the westward, although easterly winds are sufficiently conspicuous to be emban*assing to vessels running down their easting. 48. Area included between Lat. 30° and 40° S., Long. 30° and 40° E. Prevailing wind, S.S.W. Frequent winds, S.— S.W.— W.N.W.— N.N.W.— N.— N.N.E.— N.E.— E.N.E.— E.S.E.— S.S.E. (440.) The direction of the wind in this area is very variable, more especially from January to June. It has already been remarked that the general direction is reversed in January, February and Mai-ch, as compared with October, November and December — being Digitized by LjOOQIC WINDS OF THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN. 37 from ihe land during the latter period, and to it during the former. In April, May and June, the wind can hardly be said to blow either to or from the land, b«ing somewhat similar in form to that of area No. 47. The prevailing wind is from S.S.W., the next in length of duration is exactly opposite, viz., from N.N.E., and the third, from E.N.E. It is clear, therefore, that at least two streams of air prevail here at this season, — that from S.S. W. being part of the African along-sJiore wind, while that from N.N.E. and£.N.E. (tending towards the south) is more strikingly developed m July, August and Sep- tember, although indications of it exist all the year round. The general westerly current is perceptible in the wind from W.N.W. 49. Area included between Lat 30° and 40° S., Long. 40° and 50° E. Prevailing wind, S.S.W. Frequent winds, N.N.E. — W.N.W. - S.S.E.—S.W.—W.S.W.— W.- N.W.— N.N.W.—N.—N.E.—S. (439.) This area during the three months partakes of precisely the same character as area 48. The winds are subject to considerable variations, but generally prevalent between S.S.W. and N.N.E., round by west. 39. Area included between Lat. 20° and 30^ S., Long. 40° and 60° E. Prevailing winds, S.SJB.— E.S.E. Frequent winds, S.S.W.— S.— S.E.— E.— E.N.B. (408.) 38. Area included between Lat. 20° and 30° S., Long. 30° and 40° £. Prevailing wind, S. Frequent winds, S.S.W.—S.S.E.— S.E.— E.S.E.-E.— E.N.E.— N.N.W. (404.) The merging of the African ahng-shore wind into the S.E. Trade is so apparent in areas 39, 38, that no further remarks are required, and the remaining areas will be described in connexion with that Trade-wind. The South-East Trade-Wind :'^ L>uring the three months of April, May and June, the S.E. Trade sweeps over the whole of the northern part of the Southern Indian Ocean, i.e, from the parallel of ^ S. to the Equator. In the region under discussion (viz., the westernmost portion of the Indian Ocean) the S.E. Trade has this peculiar modification,— it blows from S.E. to S., with a tendency near the Equator to merge into the 8,W, Monsoon, In all the areas bounded by the Equator and Lat. 20° S., Long. 35° and 60° E., theprevuling wind is either S.E. or S.S.E. 40. Area included between Lat. 20° and 30° S., Long. 60° and 60° E. Prevailing wind, E.S.E. Frequent wind, E.N.E.— E. (402.) 3W. Area included between Lat. 16° and 20'^ S., Long. 55° and 60^ E. Prevailing wnd, E. Frequent winds, E.8.E.— S.E.-S.S.E.— S.W.— S. (366.) 326. Area included between Lat. 10° and 15° S., Long. 65° and 60^ E. Prevailing wind, S.E. Frequent winds, E.— E.S.E. (366.) 32a. Area included between Lat. 10° and 15° S., Long. 60° and 66° E. Prevailing wind, S.E. Frequent wind, S.S.E. Digitized by CjOOQ IC 38 WINDS OP THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN. 3lb. Area included between Lat. 10° and 15° S., Long. 45° and 50° E. Prevailing wind, S.E. Frequent winds, S.S.E.—S.— S.S.W. (367.) sod, 31c, 31a, 22d. Areas included between Lat. 5° and 20° S., Long. 35° and 46° E. Prevailing wind, S.S.E. Frequent winds, S. and S.E. 24. Area included between Lat. 0° and 10° S., Long. 50° and 60° E. Prevailing wind, S.E. Frequent winds, S.— S.S.E. (330.) 23. Area included between Lat. 0° and 10° S., Long. 40° and 50° E. Prevailing wind, S.E. Frequent winds, S.— S.S.E.— E.S.E. (331.) Theeoitei'ly winds between Lat 20° and 4ff 8., which were so conspicuous during January, February, and March, are only to be recognised as mere frequent or occasional winds in April, May, and June, and by no means as prevalent ones. Tk^ westerly winds south of Lat, 30° S. are only predominant in areas 50, 59, and 60. 50. Area included between Lat. 30° and 40° S., Long. 50° and 60° E. Prevailing wind, W.N.W. Frequent wmds, N.N.E.— N.-N.N.W.— N.W.— E.S.E.— S.S.E.-S.— S.S.W.— W.S.W. (438.) 59. Area included between Lat. 40° and 50° S., Long. 40° and 50° E. Prevailing wind, W.S.W. Frequent winds, S.S.W.-W.N.W.~N.N.W.-N.N.E. (475.) 60. Area included between Lat. 40° and 50° S., Long. 50° and 60° £. Prevailing wind, W.S.W. Frequent winds, S.S.W.— W.— W.N.W.— N.W.—N.N.W. (474.) Chabt Diaqbah No. IV., July, August, September. (The Southern Winter.) The winds at this season admit of the same four- fold arrangement as in Chabt DiAGBAM No. II., vis., the winds along the African shore, — ^the S.E. Trade, the easterly stream, — and the westerly winds forming the so-called N.W. passage winds. Of these, the first three are most strikingly developed, but the last is not so promi- nent in this part of the Indian Ocean as might be expected. iFinds along ike Southern and Eastern Coasts of Africa :— 465. Area included between Lat. 30° and 35° S., Long. 15° and 20^ E. Prevailing wind, E.S.E. Frequent winds, S.E.--S.S.B.—S.S.W.— W.S.W.— W.N.W. (442.) Upon comparing these frequent winds with others in the same area at the various i^easons, we find that during the three months, July, August and September, tlio wind blows more towards the land, or from the S, and W., than at the other periods of the year. The following table will place this in a clear light, and show at a glance the winds that may be expected at any season in making the Cape. Digitized by Google £AN [ JU LY, AUGUST, SI PTEW Digitized by Google WINDS OF THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN. 8» Seasons Spring. Summer. Autumn. Winter. PrevailiDg winds ... S.S.E. S.S.E. S.S.W. E.S.E. E.S.E. Frequent winds ... 1 E.S.E. S.E. S.8.w! E.S.E. S.E. is ■s.e!" S.S.B. S.S.W. W.S.W. W.N.W. 46d. Area included between Lat. 35"^ and 4J0P S., Long. W and 20° E. Prevailing wind, W.N.W. Frequent wind, W.S.W. (442.) The arrangement of the wind in the two areas Nos. 465, 4Adt for July, August, and September, is somewhat similar to that for October, November, and December, see Chabt Diaobau No. I. and p. 29; thus it would appear that during the six months from July to December, inclusive, the same meteorological forces are in operation in the neighbourhood of the Gape. The collected results are as under :— Seasons SDrinsp. Summer. Autumn. Winter. •^r'*"©* Prevailing winds ... W.N.W. E.S.E. S.S.W. W.S.W. W.N.W. Frequent winds S.S.E. S.S.W. W.S.W. S.S.E. S.S.W. W.S.W. W.N.W. S.S.E. S.S.W. W.S.W. W.N.W. wVs.w. The prevailing wind of winter and spring appears only as a subordinate wind in the sommer and autumn. The similarity between the winds of winter and spring is very apparent, also the difference that exists between these seasons and summer. 66*. Area included between Lat. 40° and 45° S., Long. 15° and 20° E. Prevailing wind, W.N.W. Frequent winds, S.E.— S.W.— W.S.W.— W.—N.N.W. (478.) This area has been considered previously under the head of " Westerty winds." In consequence however of the gpreat northerly stream of air, shortly to be noticed, it must now be considered as a part of the wind sweeping along the African Coast. The following Table shows the changes the wind undergoes here at different •eawns:— Seasons , Spring. Summer. ' Autumn. Winter. Prevailing winds N.N.W. W.S.W. i W.S.W. W.N.W. Frequent winds.. S.W. W.S.W. w. W.N.W. W.N.W. W.N.W. I N.N.W. I S.E. S.W. W.S.W. w. N.N.W. 40 WINDS OF THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN. 47. Area included between Lat. 30° and 40° S., Long. 20° and 30' E. Prevailing winds, W.S.W.— W.N.W. I'requent winds, S.S.W.-S.W.— W.- N.N.W.— N.N.E. (441.) The wind-stars of this area^ in tlie Board of Trade Charts, from April to De- cember, inclusive, present a somewhat similar appearance to each other, which is greatly in contrast with the flattened wind-star of January, February, and March. The area is an important one, as both our outward and homeward-bound vessels generally pass through it. The following Table exhibits the variations of wind (at different seasons) that take place within its boundaries :— Seasons Winter. Spring. Summer. Autumn. Prevailing winds ... W.S.VV. W.N.W. w.s.w. W.S.W. W.N.W. Frequent winds S.S.W. s.s.w. e.s.e' S.SW. S.S.E. E.S.E. E.N.E. S.S.W. N.N.E. N.N.W. "wV** *s.w* WiN.W. wiN.W. "w." W.8.W. 38. Area included between Lat. 20° and 30^ S., Long. 30° and 40° E. Prevailing wind, S. Frequent winds, S.S.W.— S.S.E.— S.E.—E.S.E.—E.— E.N.E.—N.E.— NJT.E.— N.N.W. (404.) It will be- seen on consulting the Chabt Diagbak, that the along-shore winds merge into the S.E. Trade as is the case during April, May, and June (see p. 37). The South-Hast Trade .— The areas on our diagrams over which the S.E. Trade sweeps during the winter of the southern hemisphere, are nearly the same as those over which it sweeps during the autumn, viz. Nos. 22, 23, 24, 31, 32, and 40. In these areas, with the excep- tion of Nos. 31 and 40, the prevailing wind is S.E., in 31 it is S.S.E., and in 40 E.S.E. ; the commander may therefore fully reckon upon S.E. breezes (as is well known) during July, August and September, between the Equator and Lat. 20° S., Long. 35° and 60° E., also between Lat. 20° and 30° S., Long. 50° and 60° E. ; this, however, forms but a small part of the S.E. Trade that sweeps over the Indian Ocean. No further remarks are necessary on the areas above mentioned. Eastei^ly Winds between Lat. 20° and 30° S, .— These winds scai-cely show during the winter season of the southern hemi.sphere. The easterly stream of air so well marked between 20° and 30° S. Lat. in the Indian Ocean during April, May, and June, and to which we shall direct further attention, now only occurs as a veiy subordinate wind. The E.N.E. wind of area 39 is the only well-marked remnant of this easterly wind, and an inspection of the Chabt DiAGBAM will show that it forms a portion of the stream to the southward, which Digitized by LjOOQIC WINDS OF THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN. 41 ▼as somewhat obscurely indicated during the autumn, and is now strongly developed and niost decidedly well marked. 39. Area included between Lat. 20° and 30° S., Long. 40° and 60° E. Prevailing wind, E.N.E. Frequent winds, N.N.E.— N.E.— E.— E.S.E.— S.S.E.— S.S.W. (403.) During the months of April, May, and June, the winds in this area (39) certainly form a portion of the great S.E. stream of the Trades ; now (July, August, and September) th^ appear to form a part of the great N.N.E. stream, that sweeps over the southern part of the ocean towards the BwUh, The change the dii'ection of the wind undei^oes in the winter, as compared with the autumn, will be seen in the following arrangements :— Atttamn S.S.W.—S—S.8.E.—S.E.—E.S.E.—E.— E.N.E. Winter S.S.W.— ♦ — S.S.E.~ « — E.8.E.— E.— E.N.E — N.E.— N.N.E. which shows that the S.E. winds are less numerous, while the northerly winds become more so. The asterisks indicate that the S. and S.E. winds have not been met with in winter to the same extent as in autumn. The great Soutksrl^ Sweep qf Winds, South of Africa .— An inspection of Chabt Diagbak No. IY., areae Nos. 39, 48« 57ci, 576, 58a, 58£, o9a, 59^, and 60a, showg that over these portions of the Indian Ocean, the wind is drawn by some powerful force totcaj^ds the south. While the general body of the SJ2. Trade tends towards the N.W., the general body of the air south of Madagaaoar and the Cape tends towards S.S.W. Ifc is difficult in the present state of our geographical knowledge to point out the locality of such a force. It is not a little remarkable that this stream of air is moving southerly 'in the winter, and may perliape receive its explanation in the large condensation that takes place in the Antarctic Regions at this season. Professor Dove has shown that the condensation of aqneous vapour raises the temperature, and Mr. Hopkins* insists that this raising of the temperature produces the most powerful winds. While, however, this is a very interesting subject for investigation, the great object we have to deal with now is the practical application of it to the wants of the seaman. We shall therefore simply analyse the facta as they stand before us. Area No. 39, see above. — It will be remarked that a very decided change of wind has taken place in this area since the autumnal months of April, May and June; then the prevalent winds formed a portion of the S.E. Trade; now, the somiiem force acts, and it is likely this area is situated in the most northern part of the great southerly stream. 48. Area included between Lat. 30° and 40° S., Long. 30° and 40° E. Prevailing wind, N.N.E. Frequent winds, N.N.W.— W.N. W.~W.S.W.— S.S.W. (440.) The pre- vailing wind above is exactly opposite to the prevailing wind of this area in April, May and June ; — and the wind blows much more from the land than at that season. d7a. Area included between Lat. 30° and 40° S., Long. 20° and 26° E. Prevailing wind, N.N.E. Preqoent winda, E.— W.S.W.— W.N.W. (477.) 576. Area included between Lat. 4(F and 45° S., Long. 25° and 30° E. * HopkiDs, " On Winds and Rain." Digitized by LjOOQIC 42 WINDS OF THE MONSOON REGION Prey ailing wind, N.N.E. Frequent winds, E.S.E.— W.N.W.— S.S.W. (477.) 58a. Area indaded between Lat. 40^ and 45'' S., Long. dQP and 35'' E. Pierailing wind, N.N.E. Frequent windfl,EJ^.E.—N.B.—N.-S.-W.S.W. (476.) 58^. Area included between Lat 40° and 45"" S., Long. SB"" and 40^ £. Prevailing wind, N.N.E. Frequent winds, N.— W.N.W. (476.) 59a. Area included between Lat. 40° and 45° S., Long. 40° and 45° £. Pieyailing winds, N.N.E.—N.N.W. Frequent winds, W.N. W.—W.S.W. (475.) 595. Area included between Lat. 40° and 45° S., Long. 45° and 50^ E. Prevailing wind, N.N.E. Frequent winds, N.N.W.— E.N.E.— W.S.W. (475.) 60a. Area included between Lat. 40° and 45° S., Long. 50^ and 55° E. Prevailing wind, N.N.E. Frequent winds, S.8.W.— W.N.W.— N. (474.) The Wwierl^ Wind* South qf Lat. 30° 8. ;— In consequence of the great southerly sweep just indicated, the areas over which the westerly winds blow are greatly reduced in number ; it will be sufficient here to notice the prevalent and frequent winds of these areas* 49. Area included between Lat. 30^ and 40° S., Long. 40° and 50° E. Prevailing wind, N.N.W. Frequent winds, N.N.E.-W.N.W.— W.S.W.— S.8.W. (439.) 50. Area included between Lat. 30° and 40° &, Long. 50° and 60° £. Prevailing wind, W.N.W, Fr«quent winds, N.I^.W.— W.S.W.— S.S.W. (43a) 606. Area included between Lat. 40^ and 45° S., Long. 55° and 60° £. Prevailing wind, W J^.W. Frequent winds, N.N.W.— N.W.— W.S.W. (474.) ^ av. tt remains now to discuss, briefly, that part of the central and noi-thern Indian Ocean over which the Monsooks are prevalent— Lat. 10° S. to 30^ N., Long. 50° to 100° B. CfiABT Diagram No. I., October, November, Deoember. The 3.JB. Trade is now the general wind between Lat. 80° S. and 5° S. A brief remark may here be made on a very interesting phenomenon that takes place in connexion with the streams of air, situated more or less in the neighbourhood of the Cahns of Capricorn. It is the divergence of the S.E. and E. streams between 20Pand30^S. into two well-defined branches,— the S.E. into the branch flowing northward, past Madagascar, and along the African Coast to 10° N., whei-e it becomes a S.W. wind— and the B. into the branch flowing southward, past the southern extremity of Madagascar as an E.N.B. wind, ofl* the extremity of Africa as a N J^.E. wind, and finally becoming N.N.W. in areas 58 and 59. It would appear that it is the Afrioaa Coast that turns the two streams aside, but under what circumstances and to what region of rarefaction is not quite clear. Digitized by VjOOQ IC IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. 43 The intimate connexion that subsists between the winds in the region bounded by the panlleU of 10^ S. and l(f N., Long. 40^ to 100^ E., necessitates a separation of that part of the ocean from the more northerly areas^ Regions cf WeHerly and Souik-WesUrly Winds ;-* In areas 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, and 28, there are several distinct systems of wind— the most marked being a Westerly stream directed towards the Indian Archipelago (see areas 17, 18, 19, 25, 26, 27, and 28). A N.Wly. stream of air is also directed towards the Equator, and approaches, at times, yery dose to the S.£. Trade, and occurs likewise in areas 15, 16, 17, 18, and 19. A S.W. wind is not unfrequent in areas 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 25,26, 27, and 28; and a N.E. wind in areas 15, 16, 18, 19, 23, and 24. This is clearly the N.E. Monsoon, which penetrates as far as the parallel of Cape Corricntes during the southern spring. 15. Area included between Lat 10^ and (P N., Long. 50° and 60° E. Frerailing wind, N.E. Frequent winds, S.W.— W.— N.W.— N. (31.) The frequent S.W. wind is evidently the dosing portion of the S.W. Monsoon, and may be looked for moatiy in October. 1& Ana included between Lat. 10^ and €P N., Long. 60° and 70° E. Prevailing wind, N.E. Frequent winds, S.W.— N.W.— N. (30.) The N.W. wind is much more prevalent in this area than in No. 15. 17. Area included between Lat.;iO° and 0° N., Long. 70° and 80° E. Prevailing wind, N.W. Frequent winds, S.W.— W.— N.N.W.— N. (29.) It is in this area that the Westerly wind is first perceptible, north of the Equator. The N.E. Monsoon is scarcely experienced here ; the S.W. is also much subdued,— the prevailing wind being N.W., which blows more or less during the three months along the Malabar coast. 18. Area included between Lat 10^ and 0° N., Long. 80° and 90° E. Prevailing wind, W. Frequent winds, S.W.— N.W.— N.— N.E.--E. (28.) Approaching the Indian Archipelago there is a much greater play of the winds. 19. Area included between Lat. 10° and 0° N., Long. 90° and 100^ £. Prevailing wind, W. Frequent winds, S.W.— N.W.— N.— N.E.— E.— S J!. (27.) 25. Area included between Lat. 0° and 10° S., Long. 60° and 70° E. Prcvailiog wind, W. Frequent winds, S.B,— S.W.— N.W.-^E.S.B. (329.) Calms are frequent. It is in this area, south of the Equator, proceeding from west to east, that there is the earliest indications of the westerly stream towards the Indian Archipelaga 26. Area indnded between Lat. 0° and 10° S., Long. 70° and 80° E. Prevailing wind, S.W. Frequent winds, W.— W.N.W.— S.E. (328.) Of these frequent winds that from the west is nearly as prevalent as the S.W. Cahns are less freqnent. Digitized by LjOOQIC 44 WINDS OP THE MONSOON REGION 27. Area included between Lat. 0° and 10° S., Long. 80° and 90° E. Prevailing winds, W. — S.B. Frequent winds, S.W.— N.W.— E. (327.) In this area the S.E. Trade is quite as prevalent as the westerly wind, but it is characterized by the greate&>t number of calms that are met with between the Equator and 10° S. Lat. 28. Area included between Lat. 0° and 10° S., Long. 90° and 100° E. Prevailing wind, S.E. Frequent winds, S.S.E.— S.— S.W.— W.— N.W.— E. (326.) The S.E. Trade is by far the most prevalent, then the streams from S.S.E. and 6.W. ; with the exception of the easterly and westerly streams of air, the wind blows mostly from the South, Calms are very prevalent. The North' East Monsoon:— It will be seen that the N.E. Monsoon blows, at least during a portion of i\\^ three months (October, November, December), a N.E. wind from the northern parts of the Bay of Bengal and the Arabian Sea, towards the Equator. The Pen in- aula of Hindostan separates the Northern Indian Ocean into two parts ; — in the eaatem portion the Monsoon blows as far as the Equator, Between the Equator and 10^ S. lies the region of calms — and here it is that a very remarkable arrangement of the winds obtains. The N.E. Monsoon north, and the S.E. Trade south of the Equator, are similarly disposed to the N.E. and S.E. Trades ofthe Atlantio, which meet under the " Cloud-ring." While, however, we have the N.E. Monsoon thus blowing towards the Calm Belt, there is also a north-west wind meeting the S.E. Trade in the same region. It is in the western portion of the Indian Ocean that the N.E. Monsoon crosses the Equator ; — ^it appears to blow steadily from the head of the Arabian Sea, not only in the open ocean, but along the coasts of Arabia and Africa, penetrating the Mozambique Channel as far as Cape Corrientes. It is only on the western shores of Hindostan that the N.E. Monsoon is interrupted by the N.VV. wind. Id, Area included between Lat. 26° and 20° N., Long. 55^ and 60^ E. Prevailing wind, E. Frequent winds, N.E.— S.— S.W. (103.) M. Area included between Lat. 25° and 20^ N., Long. 65° and 70'^ E. Prevailing wind, N.E. (102.) 8. Area included between Lat. 20° and 10^ N., Long. 50^ and 6U^ E. Prevailing wind, N.E. Frequent winds, E.— S.W.— W. {(^1.) 9. Area included between Lat. 20° and 10° N., Long. 60*- and 70^ E. Prevailing wind, N.E. Frequent wind, N.N.E. (66.) 10a. Area included between Lat. 20^ and 15° N., Long. 7U^ and 75 £. Prevailing wind, N.E. Frequent wind, N.W. (65.) The N.W. wind is well marked. 11. Area included between Lat. 20"^ and 10° N., Long. 80^ and 90"^ E. Prevailing wind, N.E. Frequent wind, N.N.E. (64.) 12. Area included between Lat. 20° and 10° N., Long. 90° and lOU^ E. Prevailing wind, N.E. Frequent winds, E.— N. (63.) Digitized by VjOOQ IC IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. 46 In this area the wind blows from the land. ne N. W, Stream on the West of Hindostan .— 10a. See above. 10. Area included between Lai 15° and 10° N., Long. 70° and 75° E. FreTailing wind, N.W. Frequent wind, N. (65.) lOrf. Area included between Lat. 15° and 10° N., Long. 75° and 80° E. Prevailing wind, N.W. Frequent wind, S. (65.) Winds at the Head of the Arabian Sea .— lb. Area included between Lat. 90° and 25° N., Long. 55° and 60° E. Prevailing winds, N.W.— E.— W.— S. Frequent winds, S.S.E.— S.W. (103.) In this sub-area, during the three months, not only is ihere a very great play of winds, but frequent calms ; it is generally in similar localities that we find such )?reat diversities. It would appear to be very difficult to reduce these winds to any welUrecognised rule, such as the Trades and Monsoons:. la. Area included between Lat. 30° and 25° K., Long. 50° and 55° E. Prevailing wind, W. Frequent wind, N.W. (103.) In this sub-area there is a N. W. wind nearly as prevalent as the W. wind ; it does not, however, appear to form part of the stream sweeping the west ooa^t of Hin- dostan, being separated from it by tlie N.E. Monsoon. 2c, Area included between Lat. 25° and 20° N., Long. 60^ and 65° E. Prevailing wind, N. Frequent winds, N.E.— W. (102.) The wind in this sub-area appears to be a part of the N.E. Monsoon, Wittde at the Head qfthe Bay qf Bengal : — 4^. Area included between Lat. 25° and 20° N., Long. 85° and 90° E, Prevailing wind, N. Frequent wind, N.E. (100.) 5c. Area included between Lat. 25° and 20° N., Long. 90° and 95° E. Prevailing wind, N. Frequent winds, N.N.W.— N.W. (99.) The prevalent wind in areas 4d and Be is North, which merges into the Monsoon, while the frequent winds blow along-shore. Chabt DiAGBiJi No. II.| January, February, March. Tie South-Bast Trade .— Daring this quarter of the year the S.E. Trade attains its maximum polar develop- ment, but it scarcely reaches 10° S. except on the eastern side of the Indian Ocean, h«i«e we may swiy it is fully developed over twenty degrees of latitude— viz., from :H to 11- §. It is found to the northwaixl of 10^ S., in areas 26,27, and 28, but Digitized by LjOOQIC 46 WINDS OF THE MONSOON REGION owing to the more general prevalence of a westerly current of air between the Equator and IQP 8., it ranks only as a frequent wind. Region of the N, W, Monsoon .— Between the Equator and 10^ or 11^ S. the N.W. Monsoon is in fall operation daring Jan., Feb., and March ; — in ar&cta 24 and 25 blowing from the N.W., but in areas 26, 27, and 28 having a more westerly direction. 25. Area included between Lat 0° and 10° S., Long. 60^ and 70° £. Prevailing wind, N.W. Frequent winds, N.— N.N.W. Occasional wind, W. (329.) 26. Area included between Lat. (f and 10^ S., Long. 70° and 80° E. Prevailing wind, W. Frequent winds, N.— N.N.W.— S.B.— S.W.-.N.N.B.— N.W.— W.N.W.— N.E.— W.S.W. (328.) S7. Area included between Lat. (P and 10° S., Long. 80° and 90° E. prevailing wind, W. Frequent winds, N.W.— S.W.— W.S.W.— S.E.—W.N.W.— B. (327.) 28. Area included between Lat. 0° and 10° S., Long. 90° and 100^ E. Prevailing wind, W. Frequent winds, N.W.— S.W.— S.E.— W.N.W.— B.—W.S.W. (326.) Calms are of very frequent occurrence in arem Mb. Meldbum's* excellent paper — A Metoorolo- gieal Journal of tbe Indiaa Ocean, fob Mabch, 1853, with a Summaby of THi KESI7LTS OF THE Obsebvations." It 18 based on observations made at 3£iiiritiiis, and from information derived from the Logbooks of 30 vessels, whose tncks were across the Indian Ocean during that month. The space over which these vessels were scattered extended, generally, from 20P X. and 39° S. to 90P E. and 15° E., in a belt from 20° to 30° in longitude, stretching obliquely across the ocean, from the southward of the Cape of Good Hope to the Bay of Bengal. Very few of the observations were made to the westward of 60° and northward of 15** S., or to the eastward of 75° and southward of 16° S. With so few and imperfect data it is useless to expect to obtain precise and accurate results respecting almost any of the meteorological phenomena that presented themselves in the space within which the observations were taken ; while with regard to other part« of the ocean, the Journal affords no data whatever. Bat information far short of absolute correctness may be of no small practical utility, as well as of scientific interest. Observations which are not sufficiently numerous or precise for the complete investigation of a phenomenon may, neverthe- less, place its existence beyond all doubt, and afford a rough view of the laws which it obeys. A general knowledge of this sort serves to point out tlie direction to be given to future observations, each fresh accumulation becoming the basis for another step in advance, till truth is at length fully attained. The LimiU of the 8.E, Trade- Wind :— Daring the fii-st five or six days of the month the S.£. Trade-wind extended much neaier to the Equator on the eastern than on the we8tei*n side of the ocean. K the positions of the vessels, and the direction of the winds, on each of those days be projected on a chart, the equatorial limits will be found to have stretched oWiquely across the ocean, from the vicinity of Mauritius to 7° or 8° S. and 85° E. Daring the next seven days the equatorial limits gradually receded still further to tbe southward, on both sides of the ocean, but with nearly the same relative dis- tances finom the Equator, till the Trade almost entirely disappeared. On the 13th, 14th, and 15th, calms prevailed over several hundred miles around Haoritius, the Trade setting in far to the southward and westward of that ti'act, and appearing also to the northward and eastward of it. From the 14th to the end of the month the Trade seems to have approached as near to the Equator on the western as on the eastern side of the ocran, but to have Uown more strongly and steadily on the latter. The mean equatorial and polar limits for the month were IP S. and 29° S. respec- tively, giving a mean breadth, in latitude, of eighteen degrees. From the 1st to the 13th the western equatorial limits were, on an average, 19^ 2(y S., or about eight degrees more to the south than the mean limits for the mooth. The mean western polar limits were 29° 17' S. The mean eastern equatorial limits for the same time were 11° 24' S., leaving a * Chailu Hclobum, Esq., &I.A., Secretary of the Mauritias Meteorolo^cal Society. This ^*k «it ori^&Uy publiihed in the colODy, and has sluce been reprinted by the Hoard of Trade. B«hWw»ar« BOW acarcc. Digitized by L^OOglC 54 METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL. difference, between them and the weetem limits, of also eight degrees : the mean eastern polar limits, so far as thej can be ascertained, were aboat 25^ S. From the 12th to the 16th, inclusive, the Trade-wind appeared, on the western side, as far south as 38°; that is, nine degrees beyond the mean polar limits. After the 16th it gradually receded, till, by the 25th, the polar limits were in the vicinity of Mauritius. But on the 30th it is again found as far south as Lat. 33^ 4' S. We thus perceive several distinct vibrations of the Trade* wind in the course of the month on its equatorial and polar borders. The western equatorial limits gradually receded from about 16° S. on the Ist and 2nd, to 26° S. on the 12th, and there seems, upon the whole, to have been, at the same time, a similar contraction of the polar limits, till at length the Trade almost entirely disappeared. It is then found to have suddenly extended both north and south over 18° in the one direction and 18° in the other. After the 16th, again, the polar limits began gradually to recede, till they at length reached the vicinity of Mauritius. And then, on the 30th, they are once more found far to the southwai'd, as if about to undergo a similar contraction. It would seem that the northern limits approached nearest to the Equator between the meridians of 65° and 75°. Deflection qf the 8,JS. Trade- Wind to North and N,E, on its Equatorial Bordere .— As a general rule the S.£. Trade, on approaching the Equator, is deflected to N. and N.E., forming a S. and then S.W. wind, which lasts from a few hours to several days, according to the longitude. This is observed on almost every day of the month. From a comparison of the observations, it appears that this deflection of the S.E. Trade to N. and N.E. takes place to the eastward of 58° E. only, and that the space over which the S.W. wind blows is greater on the eastern than on the western side of the ocean, gradually narrowing from about 86° E. to 60° and 58° E. The extreme eastern limit for the month is 86° 39' E., and the extreme western 58° 35' E., the limite in latitude being 6° 1' N. and 15° 43' S. The mean southern limits are 8° 32' S., and the mean northern limits 2° 4' S. The average breadth in latitude is 5° 16', and in longitude 16° 4'. Between the meridians of 75° and 85° the average breadth in latitude is about 10°, but it diminbhes towards the meridian of Mauritius. The prevailing direction is W.S.W., and the mean direction about S.W. by W. The mean daily force is 2*5. The wind was lightest from the Ist to the 10th, and strongest from the 2l8t to the 29th, when it again became light. Seventy-five observations contributed to the above data. Deflection qf the S.E, Trade to 8, and S.W. on its Southern Borders .--^ One of the most remarkable features presented by the charts is the constant preva- lence of a N.E. wind on the south-western limits of the Trade- wind. There is hardly a day on which this N.E. wind is not found somewhere between the meridians of 14° and 70° E., blowing in strong gales over an extensive tract. On the 1st of March we find four vessels, situated between Lat. 34° 46' S., Long. 44° 50' E., and Lat. 31° 38' S., Long. 57° 48' E., experiencing N.E. and E.N.E. winds in moderate and fresh breezes during the whole day, and no other INDIAN OCEAN, MARCH, 1853. 55 wind is obflerved in that space ; while to the northward of it| as far as Lat. 16^ 49' S., Long. 56° 2V E., the S.E. Trade is blowing strongly and steadily, as shown by oberratioQS taken at five different places variously remote from one another. On the 2nd of March this N.E. wind is still seen in the same locality, hlowing in (rash breezes; but it now extends as far north as Lat. 24"" 35' S., Long. 49° 27' E. Between that point and Lat. 35° 1' S., Long. 49° £., there were six vessels which had it constantly, and no other wind was observed within the same limits. The &E Trade was at the same time blowing a little farther to the north. These X.E. winds are found on every succeeding day down to the 14th, when they disappear. They gradually advanced towards the east and north, to about Lat. 17° H., Long. 70° E. On the 5th, for example, they stretched from Lat. 22° 37' S., Long. 57° 9' E., to Lat. 33° 4/y S., Long. 52° lO' E., as shown by seven vessels ; and on the 6th they extended to Lat. 18° 31' S., Long. 62° 26' E. From want of observations, their northern limits on some of the following days are not easily asoertained. On the 14th they are not seen ; the space which was occupied by them is now oocu^ed by the S.E. Trade. But on the 15th one vessel, in Lat. 39° 13' S., Long. 27° 7' £.» is found with a N.E. wind ; and on examining the observations for the following days, this second N.E. wind, Uke the former, gradually progressed to the eastward, till, by the 29th, it reached at least the 67th meridian. On the last two days of the month it is again encountered far to the westward by seven or eight vessels. Thus, a N.E. wind on three different occasions is found gradually advancing from the south-western extremity of the ocean to the eastward. Of these three successive winds or currents from the same quarter, the Jirst advanced from Lat. 34° 46' 8., Long. 44° 5(y E., on the 1st, to Lat. 24° 24' S., Long. 74° 9' £., on the 10th, giving a range in longitude of 29° 19';— ^e second from Lai 39^ 13' S., Long. 27° 7' E., on the 16th, to Lat. 36° 17' S., Long. 67° 7' B., on the 29tli, giving a range in longitude of 40° ; — and the third, which extended from Lat 38° SC S., Long. 21° 50' E., to Lat. 28° 4' S., Long. 33° 41' E., on the 30th, ex- tended from Lat. 28° 65' S., Long. 33° 37' E., to Lat. 38° 54' S., Long. 40P 20' E., on the 31st, which g^ves an advance to the eastward of about 7°. The mean eastern limit of the^r;^ is 63° 24' E., and the mean western limit 52? £., 80 that its mean extent in longitude is 11° 24'. Its mean northern limit is 23° 17' S., and its mean southern limit 32° 45' S., giving a mean extent in latitude of 9° 28'. The mean eastern limit of the teoond is 56° 5' E.; its mean western limit 42° £. ; and its mean longitudinal extent 14° 6' E. Its mean northern and southern limits are 30P 23' S. and 38° 40' S. respectively, and its mean extent in latitude 8° 17'. The mean limits of the third for the two days on which it was observed are 38° 52' S. to 28° 29' S., and 23° 47' £. to 42° 68' £., showing a mean of IQP 23' in Utitnde, and 19° 11' in longitude. So far, therefore, as can be judged from these observations (136 in number), the mean extent of this N.E. wind, for the month, is 9° 22' in latitude, and 14° 13' in longitude, and the wind which is conined to this average space has a mean range in bmgitiide of at least 35°, it being found to advance from the west towards tlie east. Its extreme northern and southern lunits are about 18° S. and 39^ S.> and conse* ^SmMj its range from north to south about 21°. The prevailing durection of the wind is E.N*E. and N.E., and its mean direction between N.E. and N.E. by E. Digitized by L^OOglC 66 METEOROLOaiCAL JOURNAL. Its mean daily force ifl 5*2. Connexion between the S,£, Trade and the N.E, Wind, on its Polar Limits .— On comparing the polar limitd of the Trade-wind and the northern limits of the N.E. winds to the southward of them, we find that as the former recede towards the eastward and northward, the latter advance in the same direction. From the 1st to the 11th of the month the polar limits of the Trade became more and more northerly, till they reached Mauritius, or were found even beyond it; and during those days the N.E. wind advanced from 34° or 35° S. to 18° or 19° S. in the same meridians. When, again, the S.E. wind appeared far to the southward and westward, after the 12th, the N.E. wind made its appearance still fai-ther to the westward; and as the Trade receded towards the Equator, till it reached Mauritius a second time, on the 25th, the N.E. wind seems to have followed it. And the commencement of another repetition of the same thing probably occurs on the 30th and 31st, for the S.E. Trade is found at 33° 4/ S. and 53° 21' E., and the N.E. wind to the westward of it. The two winds are, on the first seven days of the month, seen so near to each other that the immediate impression is that the one is a continuation of the other; and on examining the logs of the vessels, from day to day, the S.E. Trade is in some cases actually found to have veered to E. and N.E. I have therefore considered the N.E. wind to be merely a deflection and continua- tion of the S.E. Trade. It is not quite clear, however, that it is so, for many of the vessels, on losing the S.E. Trade, had calms and variables for at least a few hours previously to their getting the N.E. wind, no gradual veering from S.E. to E. and N.E. having been experienced. It may be, and there are some indications that seem to favour the supposition, that these N.E. winds are the N.W. Monsoon, which, having overleaped the inter* vening S.E, Trade, makes its reappearance on the surface, and is deflected towards the S.W. by the heated land which lies in that direction. On the 8,W, Wind found to the Southtoard of the S.E. Trade- Wind .--^ The N.E. winds beyond the polar limits of the Trade-wind are invariably accom- panied by a current of air moving from the opposite direction, which always makes its appearance to the westward of the N.E. current. This S.W. wind presents itself on every day of the month, except from the 14th to the 21st, and on the 31st, when (the N.E. wind being far to the westward) the journal does not show whether the S.W. wind appeared still farther to the west or not, as no observations taken to the westward of the 13th meridian were extracted from the log-books. But on every other day, when the N.E. wind extended con- siderably far to the E., a S.W. wind was constantly found to blow beyond its western limits, and to follow the prog^-ession of the N.E. wind to the eastward ; and it is probable that, if the observations had a greater extent in longitude, the S.W. wind would be seen on the other days also. The extreme eastern limit observed is 58° 53' E., on the 11th, and the extreme western 14° E., on the 8th ; so that the range in longitude was at least 44°. The extreme northern limit observed is 19° 43' S. on the 8th, and the extreme southern 39° 27' S., on the 26th ; which gives a range in latitude of 19° 44'. The mean eastern and western limits are 42° 15' E. and 27° 7' E. respectively giving a mean extent in longitude of 15° 8'. Digitized by LjOOQIC INDIAN OCEAN, MARCH, 1868. 67 The mean northern and southern limits are 28^ 48' S. and 35^ ZCf S. ; and hence the mean extent in latitude is 6° 42'. From an average of nearly four daily observations, the mean daily force of the vind appears to have been about 4*8. The prevailing direction of the wind was S.S.W. and S.W., and the mean direc- tion nearly S.W. Comparing the mean force of the S.W. wind with that of the X.£. wind to the east of it, the latter (5*2) appears to be somewhat greater than the former, bnt the difference may be owing to the fewness or inaccuracy of the observa- tions. The mean directions of the two winds seem to have been nearly diametrically opposite. These S.W. winds, like the N.E. winds to the eastward of them, extend obliquely across the part of the ocean where they prevail, namely, from the southern ex- tremities of Africa towards Cape St. Mary and Mauritius, and sometimes blow over an extensive tract. On the 8th, for example, they extended from the Cape of Good Hope np to Mauritius. To the southward of the 30th parallel they seldom appear farther to the east than the meridian of 48°, their eastern limits being found at their northern extremity, about the meridian of 69°. There is, therefore, a strong pre- sumption that they are caused by the high temperature which prevails at that season of the year in the Islands of Mauritius and Bourbon, and in Madagascar and Southern Africa. It will be seen, on comparing the limits of the S.E. Trade-wind and that of the N.E. and S.W. winds which prevail to the southward of it, that the changes of posi- tion which they undergo are closely related. When the S.E. Trade sets in far to the westward, as on the 14th and 15th, it occupies the whole ocean to the eastward and northward of 30^ E., the N.E. and S.W. winds not appearing at all. In a short time, however, the N.E. wind, as on the 16th, makes its appearance to the southward of the 3(Hh parallel, near the meridian of 30^, and the Trade is pushed to the eastward and northward. The N.E. wind then continues to advance, and, by and bye, as on the 2Lit, the S.W. wind sets in to the westward of it, and the northern and eastern limits of the two daily increase, in proportion as the southern and western limits of the Trade decrease. Ninety-one observations contributed to the above data. Direction and Force of the S.JE, Trade ."^ In order to ascertain, approximately, the mean direction and force of the S.E. Trade, the number of hours during which it blew on each day, from £., E.S.E., 8.E., S.S.E., and S., respectively, has been determined ; and as each of these winds blew in different parts of the ocean, the point which gives the greatest number of hours is regarded as the point of maximum dii*ection. It is scarcely necessary to observe that in determining the direction of the S.E. Trade, as weU as of the other systems of winds, no allowance is made for magnetic variation. The prevailing direction of the Trade in March 1853 was S.E. The mean direction was S. 51° E. The mean daily force was 3*4. The point from which the wind blew in greatest force was the east, and in least font the south. Digitized by LjOOQIC 58 METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL. With regard to the Trade, the stormiest days of the month were from the let to the 9th, incluBive, and the calmest days the 10th and 23rd. The easterly winds prevailed to the westward of 60^ £. The Trade hlew with greatest steadiness to the eastward of 66^ £. and southward ofl6°S. Idmiis, ^c, qfihe N.W. Monsoon:— The southern limits of the N.W. Monsoon, during the Rrst fourteen days of the month, stretched obliquely across the ocean from about 17° S. and 46° E. to tho Equator, in about 8(f E., and thence towards the north of Sumatra* After the 14th, the mean southern limits were 5° 22' S. ; but they still extended farther to the south on the western than on the eastern side of the ocean. The northern Umits appear to have been to the north of the Equator durmg the whole month, at least on the eastern side, and to have^ extended, from the 1st to the 16th, obliquely up to 14° N. and 90° E. In fact, a N.W. wind is found, on almost every day, blowing over the southern part of the Bay of Bengal, from Ceylon to the Straits of Malacca j and I suppose it to be the Monsoon — the vessels situated to the southward and westward of that space having the wind from the same quarter. On this supposition, the mean northern limits on the east side are 9° 27' N. and 88° T E. The mean southern limits on the west are 10° 52' S. and 58° 33' E. The mean extent in latitude appears to be about 12°. The N.W. Monsoon, on approaching the S.E. Trade, is sometimes deflected to S. and S.W., becoming a N. and N.E. wind. One hundred and eight observations contributed to these data. The N.K Trade-Wind .— The N.E. Trade seldom appears to the eastward of 66° £., south of 10° N. On some days, as on the 17th and 18th, it Seems to take the place of the N.W. Monsoon, to the eastward of Ceylon. On the 17th, four vessels, from Lat. 7° 51' N., Long. 89° 27' E., to Lat. 2° 17' N., Long. 78° 66' E., had N, and N.E. winds during the whole day ; and this is observed also on the 18th. But, with the exception of these and one or two other days, there are few signs of the N.E. Trade in the Bay of Bengal, or to the eastward of the 66th meridian. The winds in the northern part of the Bay were generally from N.W. and S.W. From the 25th to the end of the month a strong S.E. wind prevailed from about 6° N. and 84° E. to 14° N. and 87° E., blowing towards the east coast of India. To the westward of 66° E. the N.E. Trade was generally found on every day on which vessels made their appearance there, prevailing during the month from 1° 40' N. to at least 18° N. ; but that to the eastward of tlie mei-idian of 66° £. the prevailing wind on the north side of the Equator was N.W. The logs seem to indicate that in the line between the N.E. and N.W. winds, and coinciding more or less with the meridian of 66°, the wind was due north. With regard to the mean force and direction of the N.E. Trade, the observations are too few to enable one to obtain an approximate value. The former, however, appears to have been 3, and the latter to have been N.E., between 55° and 65° £« Digitized by LjOOQIC INDIAN OCEAN, MARCH, 1853. 60 Belts 4^ Calms ."^ Although ihe obaeryatioiui show, upon the whole, the existence of a belt of calms to the north of the equatorial borders of the S.£. Trade, and another to the south of iU polar borders, yet thej are not sufficiently numerous for determining the exact Itmita of these belts. ^ Between the N.E. and S.E. Trades lies the region of the N.W. Monsoon, and also, OQ the eastern side, the region of the S.W. wind or Monsoon, the limits of which have been given at p. 56. Now, between the S.E. Trade and N.W. Monsoon, to the westward of 60° E., where the S.W. wind is rarely found, most of the vessels met with calms and light variable airs, which lasted from a few hours to a few days. Also, to the northward of the Monsoon, and between it and the N.E. Trade, similar calms and variables were found ; but it often happened that the Trade gradually veered to N. and N.W., without any calms, the N.W. Monsoon appear- ing to be merely a continuation of the Trade. Again, between the S.E. Trade and S.W. Monsoon, on the east side of the ocean, calms were sometimes experienced. Generally, however, the Trade seems to have veered to, S. and S.W., without any interruption ; but to the northward of the S.W. wind, between it and the N.W. Monsoon, calms and variables were much more frequent. Odms and variables were also experienced on the polar limits of the S.E. Trade, but it more frequently happened that, though the wind became variable, or shifted, it blew in strong breezes and gales. Surricanes and Qales : — The relative mean forces of the different systems of winds above described were apparently as follows :— N,B. Trade 3 N.W. Monsoon 3"7 S.W. wind towards the Indian Archipelago ... 2*5 S.E. Trade 3'4i N.E. wind to the southward of the S.E. Trade . . 5*2 8. W. wind 4'8 It seems, therefore, that the two latter winds are the strongest ; that the N.W. Monsoon is stronger than the S.E. Trade, and that the S.W. wind, which blows towards Sumatra, Ao., is the weakest. Again, if the N.W. Monsoon be regarded as a continuation of the N.E. Trad.e> caused by the combined influence due to the sun's elevation and the heated land of the Indian Archipelago, Australia, ^, it may be said to extend over a greater space than the 8.E. Trade, and to put a greater mass of air in motion. Hence, the Monsoon pushes the S.E. Trade back towards the Tropic. The two opposing winds are in conflict, and the weaker gives way to the stronger ; it is therefore in the belt of calms and variables which separates them, that storms and huinanea are most likely to occur. Now, the position of this belt is constantly changing. It follows the suu. When the land in the southern hemisphere begins to be heated up by the sun's rays, the K W. Monsoon begins to set in, and it advances more and more to the southward, iu proportion as the heat increases, till, in the month of March, it attains its highest limit, sfter which it gradually recedes, and at length disappears, the S.E. Trade taking Digitized by LjOOQIC 60 METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL. its place. But although the Monsoon from October to March is, upon tiie whole^ advancing towards the south, and the Trade receding, the two winds fluctuate back- ward and forward within certain limits, according to temporary fluctuations of temperature, both alternately occupying the same space. If, then, the hurricanes of the Indian Ocean, as here maintained, occur in ono space between the "NAY. Monsoon and the S.E. Trade, the localities of these hurri- canes should vary according to the season—according to the sun's declination — and observation shows that such is the case. The Monsoon begins to blow in the latter part of October, or in the beginning of November ; the hurricane season of the South. Indian Ocean begins at the same time ; and, in the early part of that season, tho hurricanes occur far to the eastward and northward of Mauritius, in the vicinity of the Equator. But as the sun's southern declination increases, they gradually attain higher latitudes, and make their appearance in localities farther to the westward, till at length they come down as far as Mauritius, or even beyond it. In November 1851, for example, a very severe hurricane occurred in 6*^ to 16° S. and 80^ to 90° E., and in March of the same year an equally severe one took place in about 25° S. and 60° E. Now, these storms were the two extremes of a series of gales which took place in intermediate localities, and at intermediate times in the course of the season ; and a similar series of storms or gales is, in general, observed annually, the first storm occuning in the early part of the season in the neighbourhood of the Equator, and the last, towards the end of the season, in the neighbourhood of the Tropic ; while at a still later period storms occur again, nearer to the Equator, as the sun advances to the north. In the huiTicanes of the South Indian Ocean the wind moves in a circular direc- tion, from west to east by the north, and from east to west by the south, or with the hands of a watch. This is termed their law of rotation. They have at the same time a progressive motion in a course of from about E.N.E. to W.S.W., which is tei-med their law of progression. Now, the explanation of these laws, about which writers on storms have so widely differed, will, I think, be afforded by an examina- tion of the connexion between the ordinary pi*evailing winds, as influenced and determined by the action of heat. The N.W. Monsoon^ on approaching the belt of equatorial calms, appears to have, as already remarked, a tendency to veer to N. and N.E., becoming first a N. and then a N.E. wind; and the S.E. Trade, to the eastward of 60° E., veei-s to S. and S.W., fonning a wind, first from south, and then from S.W. These veer- ing?, then, would evidently give rise to a wind rotating according to tlie law which obtains in the southern hemisphere. This is the explanation which was given of the law of rotation by Dr. Thorn, on hypothetical grounds ; and the observations given in the journal show that the two opposing winds, especially the Trade- wind, do actually veer in the manner which he supposed. I am not aware, however, that any satisfactory explanation has been given of the law of progression. Why is it that the hurricanes of the South Indian Ocean generally travel from E.N.E. to W.S.W.? This question will, I think, be answered in the couree of these researches. It has already been observed that the N.W. Monsoon extended farther to the south on the western than on the eastern side of the ocean. Its southeni limits, during the first half of the month, stretched obliquely from about 17° S. and 46° E. up to Digitized by LjOOQIC INDIAN OCEAN, MARCH, 1853. 61 the Equator in 80° £. or S6° £. ; and the northern limits of the S.E. Trade extended at the same time from 20° S. and 50P £. to 11° S. and 80° or 85° £., where it was deflected towards the N.E., forming a S.W. wind. Between the two opposite systems of winds is the holt of calms and variables. Now, if the hnrricanes of the South Indian Ocean take place on the borders of the Monsoon and of the S.E. Trade— and it appears certain that they generally do 30— it is manifest that a storm originating near the Equator in about 85° E. would, if it progressed at aU, move along the belt of calms which separates the two winds. But the position of the belt of calms is determined by the limits of the Trade and Monsoon, which extended during a considerable part of the month from the vicinity of the Equator, in 85° E., down towards Mauritius ; and that is exactly the course which hurricanes generally take at that season of the year. The position of the belt of calms^ is indicated in Chabt Diagram Y. On the one fude of it is represented the region of the S.E Trade, and on the other that of the N.W. Monsoon. The Trade on nearing the Equator is deflected towards Sumatra, &c., forming a S.W. Monsoon. Now, it oilen happens that the N.W. Monsoon, in veering to N. and N.E., penetrates into this S.W. wind, while, somewhat farther to the westward, the S.W. wind still pursues its course ; and it is easily conceived how a rotatory wind may thus be generated. I have therefore represented the supposed formation of a circular gale in this manner, where the belt of calms CToeses the Equator, and it is more than probable that, if such a gale had actually been formed there, it would, if it did not remain stationary, move along the belt of calms. The journal shows distinctly that the Monsoon and Trade, and consequently the belt of calms between them, had, during a considerable portion of the month, the relative positions assigned to them in the chart, and it is these relative positions that determine the nsual tracks of hurricanes * Some writers often speak of the hurricanes of the South Indian Ocean as passing down across the Trade, and have recourse to extraordinary causes to account for the mpposed phenomenon. But it does not follow, that because hurricanes may originate about 8° or 9° S. and 80° or 85° B., and come down towards Mauritius, they travel through or across the Trade. They do not pass through the Trade, but along its equatorial edge, which, in the hurricane season, often extends considerably further to the southward on the western than on the eastern side of the ocean, as shown by the journal, and represented in OhaAt Diagbau Y. If the nsual tracks of hurricanes coincide with the equatorial limits of the Mon- soon and Trade, it is plain that the cause or agent which determines the one will also determine the other ; that is, that whatever causes the N.W. Monsoon to extend to Mauritius, or beyond it, also determines the hurricane tracks. What is it, then, that gives rise to the N.W. Monsoon P and why does it extend so fitf to the southward in the meridians of 50^ and 60^ ? The answers to these questions are furnished by considering the distribution of the land and the influence of solar heat. The Monsoon is caused by the increase of tempentnre which takes place in the summer months of the southern hemisphere ia Aostralia, Madagascar, and Southern Africa ; its equatorial limits being deter- * The edge* of the calm belt, and of the Trades and Monsooni, are sharper in Chart Dia- CBAV y. than they are in natnre--where they are irregular, Jagged, or traving and indented. Xfcediart gives merely the average limits, . ^^^i^ Digitized by VjOOQ Ic 62 METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL. mined by the positionB of looalities in which the temperatare attains its highest elevation in different parts of the ocean, from eastward to westward. Li other words, the belt of calms, or of maximum temperature, in the Indian Ocean is drawn to the southward by the influence of the heated land, as well as by the direct action of the sun. If there were no land at all, the maximum isotherm would extend due east and west, in a parallel corresponding to the sun's declination ; but the heated land on either side of the ocean causes the zone of maximum temperature to extend farther to the southward, along its whole extent, than it would have done in the absence of that land, and to attain a still higher latitude towards the coast of Africa, where the heftt is greatest; and hence the oblique position of the equatorial edges of the Monsoon and Trade, and of the belt of calms, or tracks usually followed by hurricanes. If it be asked why these hurricanes travel rromB.N.E. toW.S.W., and not in the contrary direction, it may be answered, that they travel towards the westward because the temperature is more elevated on the African side of the ocean, and because the N. W. Monsoon, which is, upon the whole, stronger than the S.B. Trade, impinges upon the N.E. quadrant of the storm with a force greater than that with which the Trade impinges upon the S.W. quadrant. With regard to the continued action of the storm for several days in succession, it may be inferred that, if it is originally set in motion by the Trade and Monsoon, the same forces may keep it in motion; for, in progressbg towards the westward, the Trade and Monsoon still continue to act as at first. It is not necessary to suppose that the Monsoon moves down, sideways, from 10^ S. and 86° £. to Mauritius, in proportion as the storm advances. The equatorial edge of the Monsoon may have had a slanting direction across the oeean before the storm com. menced) Biad also during the whole time it lasted i the motive power, instead of re^^ quiring to be renewed, at each successive step, residing in the Monsoon itaelf, along the whole extent of its southern limits. But even if it were necessary to suppose that the Monsoon did advlknoe sideways to the southward and westward, accor^g as the hurricane moved in the same direction, this would only show that an elevation of temperature had taken place in the direction of Mauritius and Madagascar, which caused tiie Monsoon to extend to the southward and westward, pushing the Trade back towards the Tropic, and thus producing a storm or hurricane. The object of these remarks is simply to direct attention to what the journal indicates, viz., that the localities of the hurricahes of l^e South Indian Ocean, and their laws of rotation and progression depend upon the observed rektive strength, positions, and veerings of the Trade and Monsoon, and Upon the known efibcts of heat. Whether or not they observe in other respects that precision and regularity which have been ascribed to them by writers on the subject is a question the consideration of which must be deferred to another oooasion. It is not impossible that further investigation will show that they are not quite so regular in their movements as some suppose, and that several of the views entertained respecting them have been put forward rather prematurely. Besides the position of the belt of calms, and the regions of the N.W. Monsoon and S.S. Trade, Chabt DiAaBAM Y. represents the deflection of the Trade towards Sumatra, forming the S.W. Monsoon referred to at p. 66. It also shows the N.E. and S.W. winds which prevailed to the southward of Mauritius and Madagascar, with the supposed formation of a circular gale between^hem^ and, oh Digitized by ' " INDIAN OCEAN, MARCH, 1863. 63 tiie nortli side of the Eqaator, the N.E. Trade is seen to the westward of 65° E., wldle to the eastward of that meridian the prevailing winds, north of the 10th panUel. are N.W. and S.W. Hie various systems of winds represented in the chart are explained hy tfie e£^ts of heai. The S.W. wind towards Sumatra is caused hy the heat which prevails there at that season of the year ; and a similar cause will account for the S.W. Monsoon, whieh blows up towards the southern coasts of Africa, Madagascar, and Mauritius. This influence of heated adjacent land seems to he exemplified in the case of the N.£. Tmde. So far as the ohservations which were made in that part of the ocean go, it would appear that, while the wind hlows from the N.£. towards Africa, it blows towards the coast of India chiefly from N.W., its direction in ahout 65° E., heing north or intermediate. The chart and journal seem to indicate that the N.W. Monsoon is a continuation of the N.E. Trade, and the S.W. Monsoon, toward Sumatra, a continuation of the SJS. Trade. Is not the S.W. Monsoon of the northern hemisphere, from April to October, also a continuation of the S.E. Trade P If the N.W. Monsoon is not caused by a deflection and prolongation of the N.E. Trade, and the S.W. Monsoon by a similar deflection and prolongation of the S.E. Trade, whence comes the air that feeds them f When the N.W. Monsoon of the southern hemisphere prevails, the N.E. Trade is found blowing to the vicinity of the Equator, and a little beyond it are the northern limits of the Monsoon. Whence, then, is the air which sustains the Monsoon derived, unless from the N.E. Trade which prevails in its immediate vicinity, atid has, like itself, a southerly course P Similarly, when the S.W. Mon- aoon prevaila in the northern hemisphere, the S.E. Trade blows down to the Equator, or beyond It, and the southern limits of the Monsoon are in the imme* diate neighbourhood of the northern limits of the Trade, both winds moving in a Dortberly direction. The S.W. Monsoon sets in at Ceylon and on the southern shores of India in the early part of April, and it gradually advances to the north- ward, readiing Bombay about the 15th of May, and places farther to the north at later dates, it being caused by the rarefaction which takes place over the ex* tenflve plains and deserts of Asia as the sun's meridian altitude increases. Now, whenee does this great rush of air proceed unless from the S.E. Trade P The Trade blows in greater force in the winter of the southern hemisphere, in oonse- quenee of the elevated temperature which prevails to the north of the Equator, and afler passing over into the northern hemisphere it is deflected to the N.E., and blows like the S.W. Monsoon near Sumatra, towards the localities of maxi- 8mm heat. As the Monsoon progresses to the northward the N.E. Trade recedes before it, or nlher, the Trade on reaching the line of maximum temperature is rarefied and ascends. Thus, between the two opposite winds there is a zotie of calms and variables, ana- fegoQS to that between the S.E. Trade and N.W. Monsoon in the southern hemi- sphere; and theofy would lead ns to infer that this 2one, also, is the scene of storms ■ad hnxrioanes, which in the Bay of Bengal, and in the China Seas, revolve in a direo- tkm eontfary to that of the hurricanes of the southern hemisphere, and have a pro- pmare motion from E.8.E. to W.N.W. j for the heated land of Asia lying to the west of those seas, the belt of calms and variables in them would extend toward the Uad ill the direction indicated ; and the Monsoon being stronger than the Trade, and impnging on the S.E. quadrant of the storm, the ktter would be imnelled towards Digitized by VjOOQ IC 64 METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL. the W J^.W., whither the elevated temperature in that direction would also have a tendency to draw it. In short, the great agent in the production both of the ordinary winds and of their stormy gyrations seems to be Heat. It does not appear that any hurricane wau experienced on the south side of the Equator during this month (March 1853), but gales were of frequent occurrence between the Cape of Good Hope and the parallel of Mauritius, as far as 65^ or 7CP E. These gales generally took place between the S.W. and N.E. currents of air which prevailed in that part of the ocean. On some days, also, the N.W. Monsoon in com- ing down towards the 20th parallel seems to have veered to N. and N.E. ; and the S.E. Trade blowing at the same time to the southward of Mauritius, and the S.W. Monsoon of the Cape blowing towards Madagascai*, a circular wind of great extent was occasionally formed. These two systems of winds which we have been considering are, apparently, caused by the action of heat on the atmosphere of Southern Africa, Madagascar, and the Islands of Bourbon and Mauritius. If, for example, we suppose the zone of maximum temperature to be in or near the southern parts of Madagascar, we should infer that currents of air would flow thither from all sides, viz., a S.W. current from the southward of the Cape of Grood Hope, a S.E. current from the Indian Ocean, east of 45^ E., a N.E. current from Mauritius, and a N.W. current from the Mozam- bique Channel. Now, such currents are actually found in those parts, but the zone of maximum heat is constantly varying : it may on one day be several degrees farther to the east or the north, and on another as many degrees farther to the west or south, and hence the confines of the aerial currents flowing towards it are subject to fluctuation.* At the commencement of the month we find a S.E. wind (the Trade) flowing towards the south end of Madagascar; but a little to the southward of this S.E. wind is found a N.E. wind; and in the same parallels with this N.E. wind, but oon- siderably far to the westward, a S.W. wind prevails. The S.E. wind, however, gradu- ally disappears, being replaced by the N.E. wind, which ultimately extends as far north as Mauritius and as far east as 70^ or even 75^, the S.W. wind still appearing in the same parallels to the westward. On the 8th, for example, the N.E. wind is observed extending from 21° 10' S. and 66° 55' E. to 33° 21' S. and 52° 46' E., a dis- tance of 700 miles, over which it is blowing in strong breezes and gales; and it is probable that it extended still farther south. The S.W. wind, at the same time, extends from 35° 3' S. and 20° 4' E. to 19° 43' S. and 58° 9' E., a distance of nearly 900 miles. These two winds (the N.E. and S.W.) seem to have attained their maximum force on the 7th, when a heavy gale was blowing from 19° 44' S. to 36° 2' S., and from 44° 3' E. to 68° 48' E. And it is remarkable that on that day there was scarcely a breath of air in motion at Mauritius, though a strong gale was raging in its immedi- ate vicinity. Yet, calm though the weather was, there were unmistakeable signs of what was occurring in the neighbourhood* The barometer, at 3^ p.m. of the 6th, stood at 29'615 (the minimum pressure for the year), to which it gradually fell from 29*848 on the 3rd, on which day the gale was felt most at 34° 51' S. and 48° 45' E. On the 8th the barometer at the same hour stood at 29*621 ; the sky during the day was overcast and lowering, the sea sending in breakers on the reefs, and at 2 p.m. * The N.E. wind, however, appears upon the whole to proceed from warmer to colder latitndea, which maf be owing to a disturbance of the atmospheric equilibrium caused on the south-east coasts of A&>ica b^ the air being removed thence by the S.W. wind. Digitized by LjOOQIC INDIAN OCEAN, MARCH, 1863. 66 ihat was thunder at north. Ahout 120 miles to the east of the island a gale nt hiowing from ELS.E., the ship's harometer standing at 29*66 ; and ahout 56 mies to the S.W. of it the same gale was hiowing from E.N.E. ; while in the iilaiid itself the atmosphere was perfectly tranquil. On the 6feh, however, the wind was E.S.£., in moderate hreezes, with a failing harometer. We here find that though the wind was E.S.E. at Mauritius (on the 6th), and the Urometer low and fiiUing, yet there was no hurricane, nor any sign of one, to the norihward of the island. The bad weather was in the very opposite direction, to the southward. Yet, how often has it not been announced, with confidence, that because the Imrometer was falling at Port Louis, with a S.E. ov E.S.E. wind, a hurri- etne was bearing down upon the island from E.N.E. P As the northern limits of the N.E. wind go on extending, the S.E. Trade nems to run into it. This is exemplified on the 8th, when, in the case above cited, the wind was E.S.E. at 19° 44' S. and 59° 14' E., and EJ^.E. at 20^ 58' S. and 56^ 48^ £., and various other instances might be adduced ; I shall, however, give only one other. When, on the 7th, the wind was E.S.E., with a falling barometer, and other indi* cations of b«d weather. Captain Harold, of the Fanfiy Fisher, in 25° S. and 78° £., trusting to what is called the Law of Storms, evidently thought that he was in the " dangerous quadrant" of a hurricane or gale, the centre of which bore N.N.E of the vessel's position. Now, there is no evidence of there having been bad weather in that direction, but we have, on the other hand, positive proof that a strong gale was prevailing to the westward. It is recommended by cydonolog^ts that when a vessel has the wind at any point between E. and S.S.E., with a low barometer and other " premonitory signs," her commander should, if possible, pass in front of the storm which is considered to be bearing down upon him from the north-eastward ; that is, that he should steer to the W. or WJX.W. But in the present case it seems certain, that by steering W. the veasel would have run into the very heart of the gale. On the 9ih the wind, after havmg been at E.S.E. and S.E. for four days, " gradually veered to EJ^.E.," the barometer rising from 29*35 at 2 ▲.K. to 29'60 St 8 a.m. Here, according to the Law of Storms, we should infer that the centre of the gale or hurricane had passed to the northward of the vessel's position, and that it now boTB NJ^.W. of her. But of this, ahK>, we have no evidence ; while it is certain that a ttrang gale still prevailed to the westward ; and, moreover, the veering of the wind from S.E. and E.S.E. to E.N.E. is precisely what had occurred on the preceding ^JB to vessels situated to the weit of the vessel in question. We have no proof whatever, but the very contrary, that the gale was bearing down upon the Fanny Fuher from the north-eastward, and yet her intelligent nanmander was perfectly justified in supposing that it was; for, with the wind and vesther which he had, and a falling barometer, a cydonologist would have assured him that he was in the '' dangerous quadrant" of a revolving storm. ^niese remarks are not made with the view of casting doubt upon the general ^Wy of storms, which I think is, in the main, unassailable, but of pointing out the danger of laying down dermatic rules for the guidance of vessels in the cireum* •*•«>«» in which the Femny^ Fuher was placed. Commanders who have acted F Digitized by LjOOQIC 66 METEOBOLOGICAL JOUBNAL. aooordibg to BOoh rules have, in some oases, proclaimed the Law of Storms to be without any foundation, because the very reverse of what was expected has turned out. The gretA practical importance of a knowledge of these N.E. and S.W. winds which have now been briefly passed in reTiew, and of the revolving gales which seem to be formed on their borders, ia so palpable as to require no notice here. The advantages which the former wind offers to vessels sailing from India, Ceylon, Mauritius, and the Bftst generally, towards the Cape of Good Hope, and the similar advantages afforded by the S.W. wind to vessels steering on an opposite course, are manifest to every one. Preaure and Temperature qfthe Air .•— The number of observations made with the barometer in the course of the month is 84d, and with the thermometer 267, which gives a daily average of 11 of the former and of 8 to 9 of the latter. The greatest altitude of the barometer was observed on the days and at the localities ettlgoined :— 30*20, on the 14th, in Sd'' 46' S. & 26"" 0' £. 30*24, on the 19th, in 23^" 27' S. & 64'' 26' E. 30-24, on the 20th, in 26^' 66' S. & 62^ 40^ E. 30*26, on the 30th, in 37^ 0'S.&28° 6' E. 30*26, on the 81st, in ^ 4! 8, & 63^ 31' E. It stood lowest at the following localities : — 29*616, at 3^ p.m. of the 6th, at Port Louis. 29*66, on the 7th, in 19° 44' S. and 69"" 14' E. 29*66, at 9i a.k. of 7th, at Port Lonis. 29'66, at 3^ p.u. of 8th, at Port Louis. 29*60, at 4 p.m. of 8th, in 24° 62^ S. A 77° 17' E. 29-36, at 2 a.m. of 9th, in 24° 69' S. A 76° 69' £. 29-66, on the 9th, in 35° 10' S. & 21° 4' E. 29-60, on the 21flt, in 33° 67' S. Sc 25° 39' E. 29-64, on the 25th, in 36° 30' S. & 46° 6' E. 29*60, on the 29th, in 37° 7' S. & 48° 12' E. 29-65, on the 29tli, in 39° 3' S. & 32° 55' B. 29-60, on the 30th, in 38° 50' S. & 21° 60' E. 29-60, on the 3l8t, in 38° 30' S. & 26° 45' E. The highest temperature was observed on the 1st, in 12° 20' S. and 75° 5' E., and on the 15th, in 15° 9' S. and 88° 56' E., the thermometer on both occasions standing at 91°, The lowest temperature was observed on the 26th| in 36° 37' S. and 10° ^2^ £., where the thermometer was at 59°. In consequence of the fewness of the observations, and of the instruments not having been verified by common standards of comparison, no definite results, with regard to the pressure and temperature of the atmosphere in different parts of the ocean can be obtained. I have, however, after rcgeoting the observations made with instruments which were evidently too high or too low set> taken the means of the Digitized by L^OOQlC INDIAN OCEAN, MABCH, 1868. 67 remaming obserrations for each square of 10 degrees, and exhibited the reBidts on Chaxt Diagbam Y. It will be seen that, upon the whole, the zone of maximom temperatare eactends firom the Equator in about 90^ E. to the north end of Madagascar, and that the barometer stands highest in the vicinity of the Tropic and in the region of the N.E. Tnde, and lowest from Mauntius to the north of Madagascar. Ibat the pressuxe was so great in the district of the N.E. Trade as is represented maj, however, be doubted, for the observations were made by only one vessel, and her bazometer, though a subtractive correction of *045 was made, may have still been too high. The general results, also, are doubtless somewhat different from what they would have been even with the same instruments if the observations had been made in the different squares on the same days, instead of at different periods of the month. The diffemiee between the temperature of the air south of Cape Colony and in the neighbourhood of Mauritius accounts for the S.W. Monsoon, which blows from the former to the latter locality; but the counter N.E. current of air does not admit of a similar explanation, for it flows from warmer to colder latitudes. The proba- bility is, therefore, that it moves southward, to preserve the equilibrium which would otherwise be disturbed by the constant withdrawal of air from those parts by the S.W. wind. On this supposition the two currents are owing to the influence of heat, the S.W. directly, and the N.E. indirectly. Most of the observations made south of the 30th parallel show that the barometer is subject there to great fluctuation. But, with regard to this and many other subjects of inquiry, a far greater number of barometric and thermometric observations made with instruments compared with common standards and with one another are r^uired. The observations show that the swell and heavy sea depend upon the strength and direction of the winds. The sea appears to have been agitated most on the 7th, 11th, a9th, and dOth, and also on the 5th, 6th, 8th, 9th, 21st, 24th, 25th, 26th, 27th, and 28th, when the wind blew in strong gales ; and to have been least agitated from the 13th to the 20th, when the African S.W. Monsoon did not appear, and no rotatory gales oecorred in that part of the ocean. The direction of the swell and heavy sea seem to be determined by the direction of the wind, thoogh the directions of the wind and swell are frequently different at the same locality, the swell in that case being caused by a stronger wind in another quarter. This is exemplified in the case of vessels approaching the equatorial limits U the S.E. Trade, where a swell from S.E. is generally experienced, though the wind may be coming from a different direction. Most of the instances of a S.E. swell ) owing to this cause, and the other directions of the swell were owing to similar On the 11th, for example, a vessel in 8° 28' S. and 65"" 68' E. had a sweU froin SJS.W., the wind being from N.W. ; but on that and previous days a S.W. wind extended from the southern coasts of Africa to at least Mauritius; and it is piobaUe that it was the swell caused by this wind which the vessel in question experienced. In circular gales, also, the directions of the wind and swell are often diffimi On the 28rd, for instance, a vessel in 88° 11' S. and 27° 54' E. had a heavy sea from N., while the wind was strong from S.S.W. ; but a N.E, gale had KMtiy passed over or near that locaUty. On the 28th,in 36° 6' S. and 46° 8' E., a heavy swell set in from N.W. at midnight, the wind being strong from N.E, ? 2 Digitized by L^OOgle 68 M[ETi;OEOLOGICAL JOURNAL. The rainiest days were from the Ist to the 9th inoluBive, especially the let, 2nd, and 3rd, and also from the 23rd to the end of the month; and these were the days on which gales were prevalent. Very little rain fell from the 10th to the 18th, when the wind was generally light, and calms freqaent. There were, generally speaking, two regions of aqneons precipitation, viz., the equatorial borders of the S.E. Trade, and the region of the N.E. wind to the sonth- ward of Manritius. The district of the N. W. Monsoon was almost rainless, condensation taking place only on its limits. The S.W. Monsoon, which blows towards Madagascar and Mauritius, also appears to be a dry wind. In the circular gales which took place between it and the N.E. wind rain fell abundantly on the east side of the gale, where the wind was N.W., N., and N.B., but on the west side, where the S.W. wind prevailed, the weather was generally fine. It is apparently to the vibration of the northern limits of the S.E. Trade, and of the belt of calms, that the Indian Ocean owes its runy season, which at Manritius usually commences in the latter end of December, when the Trade arrives there loaded with moisture. The rainy season of Sumatra, it may be presumed, sets in when its S.W. Monsoon, which is but a continuation of the S.E. Trade, reaches it, depositing moisture on meeting the high lands, as the S.W. Monsoon of India i on arriving at the Western Ghauts. Thunder and Lightning:'^ In the course of the month thunder was heard, or lightning seen, on 41 different occasions. The distribution of these 41 observations, as regards the regions of the Afferent systems of winds, was as follows : — :ion of the N.W. Monsoon No.ofObs. 14 „ N.E. wind to the southward of Mauritius ,» „ 12 „ „ 8.W. Monsoon towards Sumatra „ „ 3 „ S.B. Trade „ „ 3 Calms and variables ^^ „ 6 The remaining 4 observations were made south of 30° S., the wind being from the N.W. quadrant. No lightning was observed in the region of the S.W. wind to the southward of Mauritius, or in that of the N.E. Trade. Frequent eleetrieal discharges occurred in the vicinity of the Equator, about 80^ E., ftom the 3rd to the 8th inclusive, when, as has been seen above, heavy gales prevailed to the southward ; and much lightning was observed also on the 20th, 2Ist, and 22nd, when a second series of gales was oommencing near the southern pro* montory of Africa. It is very desirable that Mb. Mbldbuk should, in the interest of navigation, discuss the meteorological phenomena of the Indian Ocean for every month in th^ year in a manner similar to the fore^ing very able paper (pp. 63-68). Digitized by Lrioogle COAST WINDS— INDIAN OCEAN. 6d CHAPTER IV. WIUDS ALONG THE COAST OF THE INDIAN OCEAN. 3a. Bowtti Coast of AfHoa. — Speaking in general terms, S.E. winds pre- nil fipom September to May ; shoald these rise to a gale they follow the trend of the eotBt» blowing S.E. by E. to the eastward of Cape Agalhas, and S.S.E. in False Bay. Such a gale may last for three or four days, after which it is succeeded by cdms and light westerly winds, but as regards strength these S.E. gales are only local, for while ships have been driven from their anchors in one port, at another the wind from the same direction has been only moderate. From May to September the prevalent winds are from the westward, which very fineqaentiy rise to gales, especially in June, July, and August, when they are very ttnmg; beginping at W. they veer to N.W. and N., then going back to W« may eventually blow up fine at S.W. Should the wind, when veering, shift to N.E« or N.W., with lightning, hard squalls and general bad weather may be expected. Hard gales frequently commence very suddenly in these regions, and it must always be borne in mind that in the southern hemisphere the barometer stands lower with northerly than with southerly winds. Westerly winds and gales may occur at any season of the year, but are most pre* valent in the months stated above, although they are also occasionally experienced with some severity in September, October, and April. I Bay. — From October to April (summer) the prevalent winds are from 8. and £., generally S. by E. to S.S.E. ; these frequently rise to a very severe gale, known as ^e south-cMter, and may generally be expected in January, February, and March, though one of them may occur in any month of the year, and its sure pre- runor is the white cloud (table-cloth or cap) on Table Mountain ; when there is no dond on the mountain the south-easter is more moderate. The black soutk-easter, generally from S.S.W., differs from the preceding by the nimhuf, or rain tint, of a canopy of cloud on the mountain, and is usually accom- panied with light rain. From May to September (winter) winds from N. to W. are prevalent. iVith the regular N. and N.N.W. gales of this period, which are very strong and not un- frequently disastrous, a mountainous sea rolls into the bay, requiring the very best groond-tadde ; the first indication of a north-wesUr is the appearance of a mass of iwidwneed vapour rolling over the Lion Hill, and enveloping the signal station $ there is also a damp chilliness in the ur. These N.W. gales may spring up in any I of the year, but seldom blow home from November to May ; their duratioii I between two days and a week. Strong W. and S.W. winds, with fog, hail, and general dondy weather, are also frequent during this season. Winds from the N.E. quarter are only occasionally experienced, and rarely last* Sft. VUae Bay maA Simon's Bay.— S.E. winds prevail here from October to April; when they rise to a gale they blow at about S.S.E. \ E. and fre- • 8nT. KaclEab. Also, ftwr Mitt partlcolaw rcspectJng TsWs Bay, soe W. H. Rossia's -««li AtlMrtie,- pp. 43-47, imblishsd by Mbs.es. Imray and ^y. ^. .^^^^ ^^ ^QQg [Q 70 COAST WINDS— INDIAN OCEAN. qoentiy last from thi'ee day* to a week ; when tkey moderate they are followed by light variable airs from the land. Muysenberg capped with white cloud indicates the approach of these south^easters, which will probably be very violent if the Hottentot Holland range (east of False Bay) is also capped ; when the barometer stands at 80'2 to 30'B, and falls suddenly to 30 or 29*95 inches, in nine cases out of ten a strong S.S.E, gale will blow. From May to September strong N.W. winds are very frequent, but gales from this quarter may occur at any season, although not with such likelihood during the period of the south-easters. Winds from the N.E. are rare. The hloqfi or S.W. wind, is cold and rainy. 38. Mossel Bay* — The heaviest gales during the year are from the W.N.W.— i,e.y off the shore, hence vessels lide in security. Winter gales, May to August, commence from the N.N.W. with heavy gusts, unsteady both in direction and force, then veering to W.N.W. or W. they blow very hard and continuously, with a low barometer (29'6 inches), finally shifting rather suddenly to the S.W., when they subside with steady breezes and occasional showers. At this latter period a swell sometimes sets round the bay, but nothing to cause apprehension for the safety of vessels, nor to interfere with landing. In the summer months, September to April, strong breezes from the 8 J<. recur at intervals, bringing into the bay a heavy break of sea; these, however, seldom con- tinue thirty hours, and vessels with good ground*tackle have nothing to fbar. Moderate S.W. winds at thu season of the year are also very common^ i«< Algoa Bay.— The wind and weather here is the same as appertains to the South African coast in general } the S.E. and easterly gales, common to the sunmier, are the only winds to be apprehe;)ded in this bay, and of them due notice is generally £^ven by the aspect of the ^y and by the barometer. 37. yort «ratal.*Winds between S. and E. are more or less prevalent throughout the year ; more rain falls from October to February than at any other time of the year ; when the weather is very fine N.E. winds are not uncommon ; W., S.S,W., and N.W; winds are also prevalent during the dry weather. At a short distance inland (at Ekukuttski and MabitzbuBg) the fi)llowing ob- seiTations have been made on the wmds in 1858 and 1859 :^ April to September, at 9 a.m.:— N. 17i days; N.E. 14; E. 261; S.E. 20. 8. 20; S.W. 26 ; W. 25i ; N.W. 29 ; calm 5^ days. At 3 P.M.:— N. 10 days; N.E. Hi ; E. 701; S.E. 691; S. 10; S.W. 3i; W.4i; N.W. 13ij calm J day. September to April, at 9 a.m. :— N. 16 days; N.E. 17; E. 40; S.E. 29^ ; S. 26; S.W. 16; W. 12; N.W. 261; calm 1 day. At 3 P.M.:-N. 6 days; N.E. 9*; E. 63; S.E. 70j; S. 12i; S.W. 44; W. 2; N.W. 14 days ; calm 0. Dr. Mann also makes the following observations on the same subject:— " During the ninety days of the summer season the wind was blowing from the E. or from the S.E. forty times at nine in the mornings sixty-seven times at three in the afternoon, and forty-nine iimee at nine in the evening. iT^a^j. very fre- Digitize( lz^b,^fe(^i!^ COAST WINDS— INDIAN OCEAN. 71 ^Motly bean the pieeLse aspect of the Trade-wind sky daring thi« seaaoti. . Daring the mmmer the 8.E. Trade-wind, in all probability, affects in a meaaore the South Afirican xegion, becoming at the same time partially a Monsocm, on aoooont of the X^ and 8.W. trending of the coast of the vast continent, and being also fi^nently broken for short intervals by distorbing infiaenoes dependent on the irregolar heating of the land. The capricious and wet season which accompanies the advent of the summAT bears very mnoh the appearance of holding some eennexion with the ealm*beit of Capricorn, which serves as an oatskirt to the region of the Trades, and whidi sweeps backwards and forwards over the earth's ioriaoe, with this region, as it fi>l]ows the southing or northing of the son. There is no doubt that the calm«belt of Caprioom extenda farther south than the parallel of Natal, in both the Atlantic and Indian Oceans, during the sonuner of the southern hemisphere, and that it ia eaoonntered to the north of that parallel in the winter of the same hemispherei'^ •#• BelAtaa aaar«-*The ramy season lasts from September to March, bat it is quite as often fine as wet ; after a strong E.N.E. sea breeze, alternating with light land winds at night, the rain sets in with S. and S.W. winds. At this season a gale of thirty or forty hoars' duration is not unoommon, whioh ceases with fine weather, aad the wind at S.E. Winds fimm W. to S. always bring bad weather, which clears up as soon as It haols to eastward* «•. Afrtoaa OMat ftam OAp* OwHMitea to tlia B«Mtor, with the IBoaamMQao Channel. — ^The seasons here are very uncertain : the so-called N.fi. Monsoon, variable between N,E. and N.W., is the ordinary wind from November to April ; this ia |the rainy season* Trom May to October, daring the fine season, the prevailing winds are from S.8.E. to S.S.W. The regular land and sea breeaea are very per^tent^ In the vicinity of the CoifORO blands the N.E. winds (as detei^ ained by nameroas observations) set in about the middle or end of December, a fiuiai^t later than at Zanribar. The southerly Monsoon blows at 8.8.E. between EvBOPA island and Mozakbiqub. In th^ area comprised between Moziif Bi^trs, Oi^ Dbi^aso and the Cokobo islands, this Monsoon is variable between S.S.E. and 8.W., bat blows more from the S. as it approaches Zakzibab. At the southern entrance to the Mozambique Channel southerly winds from beyond the Tropics often produce a strong wind and heavy sea; and when this amounts to a gals it will very commonly penetrate far to the northward into the region of the noiiherly Mcmsoon, which it displaces for a time. Tha Moaambique Channel is subjected at times to very hard gales and severe weather, though it generally escapee the hurricanes of the Southern Indian (See also pp. 85, 26.) r. — ^From the middle of December to the middle of March the wind Mows from the north-eastward, and for the first two months with considerable ffl tea tarying, however, from E.N.E. to E.S.E. towards the end of the season. When the Monsoon ehangee, towards the end of March, heavy squalls from S.W. and W. are very frequent, with a copious rainfall ; during the remainder of ^ l«ar (eight numths) the prevalent winds are from S. and E. The heaviest rains &11 in March, April, and May j the second rainy reason is in September and Digitized by LjOOQIC 72 COAST WINDS— INDIAN OCEAN. October. The temperature does not vary much, but it is rarely oppressive, owing to the general preyalence of fresh breezes from seaward. January, February, and March are the hottest months ; July, August, and September, the coolest. The climate is not so unhealthy as has been often reported; but under all drcumstancea avoid sleeping in the open air, and near the jungle. «X. Bquator to Cape OaardAAU (Ba« Aair).--The S.W. Monsoon— variable between W.N.W. and S.W.— from March to October. The N.E. Monsoon from October to March, but it is rarely strong near the coast. From October to January the winds are very variable, not unfrequently veering all round the compass ; the prevailing N. wind brings rain, at times in great quan* titles. From January to May the wind is commonly fresh from N.E. to. N.N.E.» with fine weather; but after March it varies to S.W., bringing bad weather in the vicinity of Cape Guardafui. From May to October southerly winds are prevalent; occasional calms are, how- ever, to be expected near the coast during July, August, and September, although it may be blowing strong at sea. In the immediate vicinity of Cape Guardafrd, owing to its peculiar prominent position, general bad weather and heavy squalls are of common occurrence during July, August, and September, although at the distance of thirty leagues there may be fine weather and a smooth sea. Land and sea breezes are prevalent and fresh along this part of Africa during February and March, and again in October; these months separate the Monsoon seasons. t CottUt of BCadaraocar. — Hespecting Madagascar, a memoir was read to the Boyal Geographical Society in 1849, from J. A. Lloyd, Esq., F.B.S.» F.B.G.S., Surveyor-General of Mauritius. From this report it appears that " there are two distinct seasons on the eastern coast of the island: the first, called by Europeans the fine season, begins in May, and terminates towards the middle of October. The heat is moderate ; strong breezes from the S. and S.E. blow during the day, and from the S. to S.W. after sunset, which renew the air and dissipate the effluvia of the stagnant waters. The appearance of the country during this period of the year is delightful to an extreme, and the provinces of the interior especially are most healthy and salubrious. " The second, or had season, begins towards the end of October, and contmues until April. The hottest and most unhealthy weather happens in January, February, and March. Storms of thunder and floods of rain inundate the country during this period. The wind is calm, or blows lightly from the N.E. during the day, and from the N. to N.W. during the night. It is in this season that the influence of the intense heat upon the animal and vegetable substances washed down by the floods breeds infectious and deadly vapours. "O* the N.W, coast the N.E. Trade-wind blows without intermission from October to April During the remaining part of the year it varies from S. to W. from noon to night; it then shifts by S. to E., and remains in the latter quarter the next forenoon. '* The temperature of the interior is much cooler than that of the sea-shore, the Digitized by Google COAST WINDS— INDIAN OCEAN. 73 tlennometer in snmmer (October to May) rising to 85^ Fahr., and in winter falling » few as 4GPFahr."* Respecting that part of the east coast of Madagascar south of Lat. 18^ S., it has beaiobeervedft that the N.E. Monsoon, variable to N.N.E., prevails from November to April ; the S.E. Monsoon, variable to S. and S.S. W., and which brings the fine or dry aeason, oceapies the remainder of the year. Bat north of the parallel of 18° S. — compriaing Fong Island, Tamatave, Foal Point, Mahambo, Fenerive, St. Mary Islaiid, and Tintingue — S. and S.S.W. winds, generally fresh, are prevalent from March to the beginning of September. Daring September the winds haul to N.E. and N., alternating at times with sontlierly breezes ; when the former succeed the latter they ireqnently blow strong for two or three days, after which they subside and gradually veer again to S. This succession of winds continues until the N.E. Monsoon ia fully established. Land and sea breezes begin in September ; the land breeze, always very light, sets in at 10 or 11 7.H., lasting till 9 or 10 a.m.; after a calm of sn hour or two the sea breeze begins and lasts tbe remainder of the day ; the land breeze does not extend seaward to a greater distance than 9 or 10 miles. From the middle of April to the middle of June the E. and E.S.E. winds seldom or never bring rain ; in November, and while the winds are veering to the northward, stormy weather may be expected,— sometimes, however, not beginning before December ; then, towards 3 F.U., the sky is generally overcast, and an evening seldom paaaes without rain ; this lasts till April— it is also the hottest period of the year. A seoond rainy season oecurs from the middle of June to the middle of July or August. The winds are generally fresh during the rainy season, and produce at times a heavy sea. The cyclones of the Indian Ocean occasionally reach the coast of Madagascar. The insalubrity of the coast has been somewhat exaggerated according to recent French accounts. Mar$h fevers may be expected during the rainy reason, and ezcesa of every description must be avoided here as much as on the African coast* ftS. m*anlon.— This island is entirely within the limits of the S.E. Trade-Wind, which, however, undergoes some modification, arising from the altitude of the in* tarior, and its proximity to the region of the N.W. Monsoon. All the roadsteads of the island on the windward side, between St. Pierre and St.-* Denis, feel the full effects of the S.E. Trade, which is generally strong, but during the day its inclination is more Ji'om seaward, according to the position of the place ; towards evening the strength of the wind gradually diminishes, and daring the night its direction is more cdon^ the land. These slight modifications axe all that constitute the difference between the land and sea breezes on that part of tbe island;— for example, at St. Denis the wuid is generally fresh from S.E. to %1L by E. by day, but during the night it changes to S.S.E., and is usually not so strong* On the leeward aide of the island the influence of the land is well established. • «• Jour. B. Oeog. Soo.,** 1850, p. S4, ** Memoir on Madagaaoar.'* t ** Aimalas Hydrographiqaes,** 1864, tome zzv. p. f l8< Digitized by Google 7i COAST WINDS— INDIAN OCEAN. From 6 p.m. to 6 jl.k. the 8.E. Trade-wind pursues its oourse directly across the high land, but towards morning its force diminishes* and a calm may possibly follow; afler which, towards mid«day« ih» sea breese sets in fiN)m S.W. by W. or S.W., veering gradually as the day adTsncea, and dying out aa it gets to W.N.W. During the fine season, from April to December, the wind blows continually from the 8.E., varying to S.S.E. and £*S.E. The breeze. generally freshens at 9 jl.k., . and decreases at 4 p.m. The nights are generally cakn, and if otherwise, you may be almost sure that it will blow strongly the following day. If during the day the breeze is moderate, and iails early, there will be a light land breese during the night The winds are generally fresh daring June, July, and August. The usual S,£. wmds continue during winter, or from December to April (a period improperly called the N.W. Monsoon), but they are generally more moderate, and interrupted by calms and winds from W. and N.W. It is in this season that heavy gusts, and even hurricanes, occur. After these gusta there is often a profound calm, or a W. wind, which is always of short duratbn, and is soon followed by winds, gene- rally from S.E. Hurricanes are most dreaded by the regular traders about the days of full and change of the moon, but for this there is no sufficient reason. The distribution of the winds, as above indicated, is further modified between the months of November and April. At that season of the year the N.W. Monsoon is well established to the southward of the Equator, on the African side of the Indian Ocean, and its influence is felt at B6union in the variable (chiefly westerly) winds prevalent there during that period. This Monsoon rarely blows either wiUi great strength or regularity, but during its prevalence the weather is fitful and squally. A«. Blanrltlaa. — Most of the remarks on the winds given above (see Bbukiok) apply with equal force to Mauritius i and there is a marked difference in the climate of the island in different situations i the windward (or S.E.) side eigoying a k>wer temperature by several degrees than the leeward (or N.W.), owing to the cooling and refreshing influence of the S.E. Trade which prevails during the greater part of the year. The principal rainy season is from the end of December to the beginning of April, but showers occur in all months. The prevailing direction of the wind at St. Louis is as follows t^Wanvary, February, and March, E.S.E. to N.E. and N.W. j April, E,S.B. to KN.E. j Ma^, S.E. to E.S.E.; June, S.S.E. to S.E.; July and August, S.S.E. to S.; September, S.E. to E.S.E. ; October, S.E. to E. ; November, S.E. to E.N.E. ; December^ S.E. to E. and N.W. ; Mean of the year, E.S.E. to E. See also the Chapter on " Hubsiouybs and CYOLoivsa." *•• AodriguAa.— *The Trade-wind blows here more persistently than at Mauritius and Reunion, prevailing between E. and S.E. nearly all the year round : occasionally the influence of the N.W. Monsoon of the northern part of the Southern Indian Ocean extends as far as this island, when a hurricane may be the consequence, after which there wiU be a succession of calms and light airs. Bodrigues is of too small an extent to feel the influence of land and sea breezes, but the steady Trade for eight or nine months in the year keeps the temperature cool and equable. Digitized by Google COAST WINDS— INDIAN OCEAN. 76 0«lf of A40ii.-*The N.E. Monsoon oommences early in November, raareaBiDg in streng^li at full and change of the moon» Daring November and December the weather is unsettled and clondji frequently blowing a moderate gale, wiUi heavy rain. In January, February, and Miux^h, the wind varies from E. to EJi^.l!., increasing in streng^ towards tiie Strait of Bab-el-Mandeb ; the weather is now fine and the sky generally clear, the temperature ranging from 68^ to SO^Fahr. Daring April and May the wind is often light and variable, between E.N.E. and S.E.y near the coast ; and though the weather is generally fine, the sky is frequently cloudy and the horizon obscured by fog : close in-shore land and sea breezes are now prevaJent, the land breeze lasting from 4 A.if . to 8 a.m. During April it rains occa- nonally, and at night a heavy dew falls. The weather is generally unsettled and dull during June ; with a calm or light air in the morning, a fresh breeze from the S. will set in, freshening towards noon, and producing a long swell on the Arabian coast. Towards the middle of the month, and during July and August, between Burnt Island and the Strait of Bab-el-Mandeb, strong westerly winds are prevalent, which facilitate the passage from the Bed Sea to the Indian Ocean. These winds will probably fail before a vessel reaches B&s Rehmat, but afterwards she will get the Monsoon from the southward, from which direction it blows with great strength through the channel separating Soc6tra from the main land of Africa. The weather is generally dull, with a thick fog at times. A southerly wind — ^very fresh by day and light at night— may always be expected on the Arabian coast at this time of the year i not unfrequently, however, severe laud- squalls come off at night, which^ by raising a cloud of dust, give ample warning to the seaman. In September the westerly winds cease, and the land and sea breezes are tolerably reg:ular. The nights are often calm, and always more or less sultry. At Aden the temperature during May is generally intolerably hot, ranging from S4P to 96^ Fahr. ; so also in September, owing to the cessation of westerly winds. In November and December the range is between 76^ and S4P Fahr., the weather hnng cooler as the N.E. Monsoon increases ; the same average temperature may be expected in January and February : during March and April it becomes warmer, ran^ng from 80^ to 86^ during the latter month. On the African coast the heat is intense (sometimes 110^ Fahr.) during the pre- Taience of the S.W. Monsoon ; as a oonsequencei the natives sometimes leave the coast for the uplands, and trade ceases. What is termed the S.YT. Monsoon in the Indian Ocean generally blows out of the Bed Sea in a southerly direction, varying with the line of mountains on the Arabian coast: outside the Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb it takes a westerly direction, but seldom extends far beyond Aden. At Cape Gruardafui it blows with great violence along the coast from N.N.E., and thence across the Gulf of Aden to Bas Behmat ; and on this fine, after experiendng variable, light airs or a calm for a few hours, a vessel pro- ceeding eastward generally enters the Monsoon. That part of the Arabian Sea included between a line drawn from Cape Guardafui (Africa) to Bfia Behmat (Arabia) on the one hand, and Bas Kosair (Arabia) on the other, is a region of calms and light, variable winds during the period of the S.W. Monioon ; and it serves to separate the wind r^on of the Gulf of Aden from that of the AralHan Sea. Digitized by Google 7G COAST WINDS— INDIAN OCEAN. «7. Red Sea. — CoHMAKDBB T. Elwok, I.N.I gives the following general notes on the winds and weather of the Bed Sea :-^ '' The N.E. Monsoon entering the Bed Sea, becomes a S.E. wind, and, being repelled by the high land of Africa into a narrow strait, blows with considerable force, and rather inclining towards the Arabian coast ; for it is probable that they are stronger there than on the Abyssinian side, even in the lowest part of the sea. These winds generally begin to decrease in force after passing the Harnish and Zoogui islands in Lat. 14°; and as they approach the wider part of the sea, they are gradually lost in light winds along the oater reefs on the Arabian side, or turn to the westward amongst the banks and islands on the African side, and gradually unite with the pre- vailing northerly winds in that part. " The southerly winds commence in October, and subside in the latter part of May, or beginning of June. They blow with most force from October to the end of January, and in some months extend as far as Suez, but most commonly do not reach Jiddah ; they are frequently succeeded by light, variable, or northerly winds in the 18th degree of latitude. Prom February to the end of May they do not always blow so strong as in the preceding months, and are frequently succeeded by northerly winds for several days, particularly in the month of February, at which time the native boatmen avail themselves of the opportunity to quit, and reach the southern ^arts of the sea. " From October to January, in the lower part of the sea, the weather is generally thick and hazy, obscuring objects until pretty near ; and along the outer reefs squalls and rain are frequently experienced in November and December. From February to May the weather is unsettled — ^in April and May particularly. Bebw the 15tli degree of latitude we experienced fresh squalls from the eastward, with heavy cbuds of sand, and sometimes rain. " In the beginning of June the southerly Monsoon is succeeded by north-westerly winds, which, in the lower part of the sea, seldom blow with great force. They continue pretty regular during June and July, and in August and September are frequently light and variable ; in the latter month there are sometimes light southerly winds or calms. During this time the weather is frequently very thick and hazy, particularly on the Arabian side ; and the Abyssinian shore is consequently much the Inost pleasant, and is considered the most healthy. *' In October the pilot drew our attention to the Pleiades, which the Arabs call ' Tryer,' and which were then seen low down in the East ; he informed us that, on their first being seen in that quarter in the evening, it indicated the commencement of the southerly winds. The latter part of April, in the evening, the Pleiades set, when he said there would be light, variable winds for forty days, after which they will be again seen in the East in the morning, when the N.W. winds commence, and continue until they again set in the morning in tlie beginning of September, when there will be light. Variable winds for forty days, after which the southerly winds commence again, when they are seen in October early in the evening. *' In the inner channel on the Abyssinian side of the Bed Sea, northerly winds, inclining to land and sea breezes, seem the most prevalent of all the year round, but most probably are, as in all other parts to the soutli, light and variable in August and September, when there are also frequent calms, and southerly winds are by no means common. From the month of August to October is generally fine weather, Digitized by LjOOQIC COAST WINDS— INDIAN OCEAN. 77 hat firoin November io the end of March appears to be the rainy Monsoon npon that eoMt. In April the weather was cloudy, and fine in May, June, and July ; but be iw eeii 10^ and 20^ of lat. in these months we experienced several hot winds and fieah land squalls ; and by Mr. Salt's journal, it appears that the Panther was driven firom her anchorage, in Lat. 15^ SO' N., at Massowah, June 20th, 1806, by a partial Simoon, or land squall. " There are similar winds and weather on the Arabian side ; and though we had land and sea winds more frequently in March and April, the land squalls in the lower part of the sea occurred in April and May. From May to July, when we experienced them on the Nubian coast, there was at that time thick, hazy weather; and heavy dews on the Arabian side opposite." ComrANDBBT.E.BoGEBSyl.N., from observations made over a lengthened period, also furnishes the following memorandum on the winds of the Bed Sea throughout the whole year : — " From the beginning of October to the end of April, which may be called the winter months, from the Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb to Jibbel Teer, in Lat. 15^ 31^' N., the wind may be said to blow constantly from the southward, with the exception of an occauonal day or two of northerly winds on. the full and change of the moon; but two mm Jiddah to Cosire, sight the island of Tirahn before they venture to cross over, so much do they dread making the Egyptian coast below Cosire. This is 60 miles further to the northward than I think a fair sailing ship need go, and the practice is sometimes attended with provoking consequences, as I have known one Turk reach Cosire before another who left Jiddah thirteen days earlier, in consequence of the former getting a southerly wind below Cosire, which to the other was a foul wind, from his being so far to the northward. " The wind in the Red Sea seldom blows in squalls, but its gradual rise is often very rapid in the northern part. " In the months of December, January, and February, a ship sometimes will carry a fair wind from Mocha to Cosire, and make the passage in six or seven days. I never heard of this being done from Cosire to Mocha unless in the summer months." Captain Mosssby says : — " The winds from Suez to Jiddah, during the whole of the year, are mostly northerly, blowing with great violence at times, but generally moderate with the changes of the moon. During the winter months, from December * ObBerrations by CAPTAur Kydd, E.IC. service. Digitized by LjOOQIC €OAST WINDS— INDIAN OCEAN. 79 to Iprily 80iiifa«rl J windfl at times prerail for a £bw days, oooauoaally blowing fireth ; Bore especially in the Sea of Suez, where they fireehen at times to a moderate gale. Id these months, in the Sea of Snec, westerly gales are not nnfreqnent ; they are dOed bj the natives the Egyptian winds, and from their violenoe are much dreaded. Oa the Arabian coast, near Jiddah, both to the southward and northward of it, aofiherly, north-east, and easterly winds at times blow with great Tiolence during the winter months, bringing off donds of dost from the land." Some nayigators, d'Apr^s de Mannevillette, Malham, &o., say that southerly winds pnvail in the southern part of the Bed Sea daring two-thirds of the year, from October to May or June, afler which, northerly winds take their place for the raoudmng £oar months. The following remarks on the same region are by Lxbut. B. Wbllstsd, I.N :*— " During the warm season, from May to October, in the northern part of the sea, the reefs are observed to have about two feet less water on them than in the remain- ing months of the year. This effect is produced by the influence of northerly winds at this season, which, prevailing throughout the whol^ extent of the sea, cause a con- tinned current to set through the Straits into the Gulf of Aden. When the southerly winds, which at the lower part of the sea prevail from October to May, seiin, these currents are observed to change their direction, and to flow back with rapidity ; the whole body of water having no means of escape, then collects towards the northern part of the sea, and becomes considerably elevated. The partial influence of a southerly breeze during the former months was observed to produce for a short time a similar effect, the water subsiding to its former level on the return of the northerly breezes." ClinuUe. — ^Though the sea-coast of Hej&s is pronounced unhealthy, yet, afloat, we do not find it so. The temperature, compared with that of the Persian Gulf, is moderate ; near the sea-coast, where the winds are light with intervals of calm, it is usually much warmer than in the middle of the sea, where there is rarely any inter- mission of the prevailing breezes. The north-westers are oool and refreshing; but the southerly winds are damp, soltiy, and unwholesome. During the period at which the latter prevail, in Sep- tember and October, the dampness of the air is very great in the warmest days ; and the heavy dews at night, when all are obliged to sleep in the open air, renders them particularly dissgreeable. The sudden and grateful change which a return of the north-westerly breezes produces in the atmosphere renders them particularly desirable at this season. In the cold weather the sky is, for the most part, dear and cloudless ; generally speaking, there is no want of rain, which falls in heavy showers during the months of November, December, and January. In this respect the climate of this coast differs widely from that of Egypt, where (though the distance between the two countries is only about 160 miles, the width of the Bed Sea), it is well known, rain is of rare occurrence. A season of drought, it is calculated, occurs here about once in four years ; the floods during the rainy season pour down from the hills with great violence. Almost every part of the coast bears traces of torrents formed during this season. Fogs are not uncommon at Jiddah and in its neighbourhood, but rarely prevail to the northward of that port. * *' Jov. B07. Gcog. Soo.,*' less. " Obserrations on the Coast of AraMa between Bis Mo- baaaied tnd Jlddab.** Digitized by LjOOQIC 80 COAST WINDS— INDIAN OCEAN. «a« The ••■• CoMit of Arabia* ttom thm CKUf of Aden to Bao-al-Bod.— On this part of the coast the N.E. Monsoon sets in about the middle of November, and lasts until the middle of March-*-the direction of the wind being greatly modified bj the trend of the ooast«line; at some distance off shore the direction varies between N.E. and E. by S. The weather is generally fine and the sky dear, with neither squalls nor rain, except between B&s Seger and the island of Masirah, and the vicinity of the bay of Eubitan MubitXn, where the winds and weather are more boisterous and variable than on any other part of the coast. The following remarks respecting the extensive bay of Kuriyan Muriy&n are by Capt. S. B. Hatkes, I.N. :*— " The sudden changes of the winds, and the great violence with which they blew, frequently rendered the position of the surveying-vessel which I commanded dan- gerous; nor could she have been extricated but for the activity of the officers and crew, and her good supply of ground-tackle. It is also necessary to observe that these changes give no warning, owing to which I was compelled, for the safety of the vessel, to secure her 30 miles from the islands, while I surveyed them in my boats ; and it was not an unc6nmion occurrence for boats to be manned and ready when, from a clear, serene sky, a light arched cloud would appear over the table cliffs surrounding the bay, and in five minutes (just time enough to run the boats up) we could not see ten yards from us, and it blew a perfect gale from the northward. These winds, termed by the Arabs Beldi, are much dreaded ; but what surprised me more than these land winds were the frequent and heavy gales from S.S.W. during February and March, blowing for six days together. In one of these, after the close of the survey of the islands, I was overtaken when surveying round the bay on a dead lee-shore, having parted two bowers. A Beldt lasted for twenty-one days on a recent occasion, during the time the Bed Sea and Indian Telegraph Company occupied Hull6niy&h, the largest of the Euriy&n Muriy&n group. " These northerly gales do not extend far southwards, but appear to be confined to the limits above mentioned; when clear of Euriy&n Muriy6n Bay, and past His Ntis, they blow along the line of coast, being influenced by the high range of the Subh&n mountains towards Morb&t, in which anchorage the water is smooth from the wind's blowing off shore ; but through the deep valley of DhoHlir it again blows off shore with great violence. " The southerly breezes appear also confined to that part of the Arabian coast, as to the southward they are seldom felt, and the S.W. Monsoon does not reach Soc6tra before the Ist or 10th of May. For three years successively it reached Soc6tra the 4th of May, with heavy rain on the 6th and 9th ; so that navigators coming from the Gulf towards the Bed Sea must not take the S.S.W. winds they may fall in with in February or March for the S.W. Monsoon, as has been the case ; and in consequence of such a mistake a fast-sailing vessel, to my knowledge, bore up for Bombay. From the 16th of March till April the winds are light and vai'iable along the whole line of coast, and the weather warm ; land and sea breezes then enable the crowd of boats from Sur and Masirah to run back with their cargoes of shark-fins, the produce of some months' toil, to the southward. The sky is then generally cloudless, and the atmosphere light and pure, with heavy night-dews. '' May is a doubtful month, for if the Monsoon is early it may blow hard from the S.W, At times, however, moderate weather is experienced. • " Joor. Boy. Geof^rapbipsl Soc,," 18«, p. 147 fgitizlS'by boogie COAST WINDS— INDIAN OCEAN. 81 ''During June, July, and August, the S.W. Monsoon is in its full strength, and cdaes blows very hard along the whole line of coast, particularly in July. In the adjpart of Jane large boats run from the Ked Sea to the Persian Qulf ; and this ^^^f which is accomplished after the first blast of the Monsoon, is termed the 'UUMr,** They also set sail at the latter end of August, and run up during the ' ief9tdni,'f or after the strength of the Monsoon is over. ^Daring the month of September the winds are moderate from the W. and S., isd the weather is warm. " In October light uncertain breezes and calms are common ; land and sometimes tts breezes when in-shoce ; and at night cloudy, with passing showers of rain. "The experience of several years along the coast has taught me not to place implicit confidence on the regularity of the seasons, as I have frequently during the suae month, in different years, experienced exactly opposite winds. In March, 1836, I was twenty days in passing from the Euri3'an Muriyan Islands to Makallah, with Boatherly and westerly winds, and adverse currents ; and in March, 1836, 1 was only thiee days working the same passage, having the N.E. Monsoon with me. Further, I have observed that at aU seasons, and on all parts of the coasts of Arabia, particu* larly when the land is low, the wind is influenced more or less by the sun's position and the changes in the state of the atmosphere towards the sea; and even in strong hreraes the same influence prevails to a certain d^ee." The fdlowing is a Synoptical Table of the weather experienced off the Knriy&i Muriy^n Islands in 1835 and 1836 :— Dal. Winds. Date. Winds. ;l>ee. Feh. ; 14 Light B.N.S. to B.aE. 1 Bi and moderate. IS Light 8.E. 2 B.N.E. and light. u Light S.B. and S. 3-6 Fresh gale, N. to N.W. 17,18 Haid gale from N. to N.W. C Moderate B.N.E hreeies. 19 Fiedi W.K.W. JUliance whaler 7 N.E. to E.S.E. moderate. wrecked. 8,9 Fresh gale, N. to N.W. : 20 Fr«8h gale, N.W. to N. 10 Moderate N.N.E. to B.N.B. 21,22 Moderate a.m.. light p.m.. N. 11 Fresh soaiherly gale to a B. hy S. 23,2i: Light B.N.E. 12-14 S. to S.W. hy S. ; fresh gale. 25-27 i Light airs and calms. 15 Calm light airs, clear sky. 28 A.M. N., P.M. S.B. 16-18 Hard gale, N. to N.W. 29,30 IiightE.N.B.andS.E. 19,20 S.S.E.toS.W. fresh. SI Cklm. 21 Modeiate gale at S.S.W. JaiL 1-5 $ 7-11 22,23 N. ; moderate gale. Hard gale, N. to N.W. Ppwh A.M., P.M. light airs. 24 25,26 27 ; 28 t '' Gale at 8.8. W. ; squalls and rain. Hard gale, 8.8. W. Vessel parted two howers. Mnderata 8 S.W 12-17 . Moderate from N.E. to E.S.B. lS-23 A forions bddt from N. to W.N.W. 8. hy E. to S.S.W. moderaUng. Moderate. 24 Moderate gale, p.m. light airs. 25-27 Blowing a gale from N. to W.N.W. March. 28 Moderate N.& 1 S.B. hyB. toS.; moderate. 29 K.R to N. moderate. 2 E.8.B.to8.8.E. SO N.N.E. light. 8 Freeh 8. SI H.B. moderate. ' Light airs from N.N.E. to B. * TUkMr iigiiifles a certifleate ; it U here prol»b1y used technically for the first indlcaUon of thallMtooa. t Probably dekmdnU '*tbe season of mfschief;*" if to, ba'd «d dehndni would bc^aftet^e iMnee ertbe Moamn it paet. ai^i^ed by ^^OU^IL 82 COAST WINDS— INDIAN OCEAN. The obaenratlons of Cokhakbsb J. P. Saundess on this ooast are to the following effect :*— ''I was much hindered on my first arrival (Deoemher) on the coast hy the stron^^ Beldi winds which prevail on it, one hreeze snooeeding another at intervals of eight or ten days, always blowing very strong, sometimes a perfect gale, and constantly varying in gusts from N.N.E. to N.N.W., rendering it quite unsafe to send a boat away from the vessel. These Beldtt never last less than three, but sometimes seven, or even ten days. ^* The Beldt is also dangerous to ships near the shore. Occasionally at night the breeze would die away to a perfect calm, and remain so for an hour or two ; heavy gusts would then blow down from the mountains at intervals of a few minutes (without any warning except the noise on the water) sufficiently strong to split the sails or carry away the masts of any ship under sail not prepared for it : these gusts would succeed each other for five or six hours. *' The Arabs consider that the N.E. Monsoon lasts only three months to the N.E. of B^ Fart&k — ^viz., part of November, December, January, and part of February. The S.W. Monsoon is considered over at the middle or end of August, and they begin to trade at the beginning of September. Between the Ist of September and the setting in of the N.E. Monsoon is about six weeks, and is a season of light, variable winds called Damauro. " In March the southerly winds to the E.N.E. of B&s Fart&k blow sometimes very fresh, particularly in Kuriydn Muriy&n Bay. April and May is considered another season, which is called Ba^n el Autem by the Arab navigators. The winds are variable, though generally inclining to the south. Yessels pass up and down, and, as the current sets up to the east, they make rapid passages to Muskat and the Persian Gulf. Nearly all the trading-boats which pass down in the commence- ment of the N.E. Monsoon return again in these months, bringing back rafters, grain, and slaves, from the different ports to which they have been. " The winds to the south-westward of Fart&k towards the end of March generally blow to the S. of E., sometimes S.E., and even S.S.E. and S. ; occasionally the current also changes and sets to E.N.E. along the shore. The wind generally dies away at night, rendering progress to the west very difficult. The trading-boats from the Persian Gulf and Muskat begin to return in this month for Zanzibar and the Red Sea, and continue to do so until near the end of May. An occasional turn in the current to the westward may take place, and a shift of wind from the N.E., even as late as the 26th of May, but it does not often occur. '' To the E.N.E. of Cape Bogashua, after the beginning of May, a high long swell gradually sets in from the southward, rising much higher in the day and falling towards sunset. A long swell rolls on to the coast during the whole of the Monsoon ; but the fishermen, when they have a small nook to shelter their boats in launching, go out to fish in it at times. " In the Palinurus I experienced this swell during the whole month of May, which, when the wind died away, caused her to roll very heavily. It would affect a steamer, of course, in the same way in passmg, as generally it would be four or ^^^e points on her bow. * *' Jour. R. Ocog:. Soe.,** 184S, p. 169. ** Memoir of the Proceedlngrs of the Hon. Co.*s Siiryeyliig- hrigr PalimiruSt between R^ Morhat and R^ Seger, and between R4s Fartik and the Ruins of ^^'*"**-" Digitized by L^OOgle COAST WINDS— INDIAN OCEAN. 83 "'From tKe best infonnation I could procure from many of the natives on the part «fiieeQaat I was surreying, fishermen and others, it would appear that the S.W» IsMon, to the south-westward of Morbat, close to the shore, blows fresh only ooca- i breeze lasting from three to four days, and is then succeeded by light I and calms from three to ten days ; the swell, however, remains. The sea is sot 10 great as that experienced on approaching India. A large steamer passing hmjL from Morbat would be obliged to keep near the shore, where she would ex- pMQce lighter winds ; and it would of oouise be necessary to keep a good look-out, lad the lead constantly going ; though, in some parts, even that would be no guide far the distanoe off shore. She might, if necessary, pass along at one mile's distance fa the day, and a few miles off it at night ; occasionally she might probably set her try- taili ; but a strong current, from a half to a mile and a half per hour, would be eon- stantly experienced running against her to E.N.E.-ward. " From Morbat to B4s Isolette the coast bends a good deal to the westward, forming two bays, with the Kuriy4n Muriy4n Islands projecting from it at a distance of up- wvda of thirty miles. Along these bays, and nearly as fkr as Maslrah Island, the ratives that I have spoken to all agree that the Monsoon blows stronger and the swell 11 much higher than on any other part of the coast ; this part is much dreaded bj them. They also stated that the Monsoon sets in there with a gale of wind, daik gloomy weather, thunder, lightning, and rain. Many boats that have been eaoght in it have been lost ; after the first burst the weather is the same as in the open ocean." *#• Ottlf of *OiiiiiMUi."— During the N.£. Monsoon winds known as nathU and MiemdU prevail ; during the summer, calms and light winds horn S.E. are common, v^^Bdering the navigation tedious. The S.W. Monsoon is not felt inside B4s*al-Hed. But neither here nor in the Persian Gulf are the winds regular or of long continuance ; tluMe from N.W, and S.E. are the most prevalent; the former being more or less pnttstent throughout the year, the latter appertaining more especially to November, Deeember, and January; but there is great diversity of opinion respecting the winds in theM regions. \ ChUi; — Here the navigation of a ship requires great attention ; the vindf, as in most inland seas, are very uncertain, and blow occasionally with great loroe down the gulf; and in winter, also in the opposite direction : they set in without madi warning. The following remarks are chiefly by Oapt. C. G. Ookbtablz and Libut. A. W. SrirfB, of the Indian Navy :— The prevailing wind in the gulf is undoubtedly the north-wester, called by the natives Skemdl; this wind blows down the gulf, changing its direction with the tmid of the coast Thus, on the Arab coast, from Eow^t to Bahrein its average £netion is N. by W. to N.N.W.; on the Gutr coast N. to N.N.W.; and on the west coast of 'Omman W.N.W. On the Persian coast it blows N.W. by N. down as far as the angle at Jabel Dreng, nttiog io N.W. and W.N.W. between that and Sheikh Sho'aSb. Off Kais the Section is about W. by N. ; and from Bostineb, eastward, it blows from W. to S.W. hj W. at ths entrance of the gnlL In the Gulf of 'Omman its general direction is N.W. The ShemdlM^^^^ 84 COAST WINDS— INDIAN OCEAN. nine months in the year in the northern half of the Persian Gulf; it hlows almost incessantly during June and part of July (called the Cheat Shemdl), seldom exceeding a moderate gale in force, and at times quite light ; its general duration is three days, hut it may last seven days ; the worst Shemdls often only last one day. During a Shemdl, if after rain, the air may he dear and sky cloudless, hut generally the air is so loaded with dust from the Mesopotamian deserts that a dense mist is the result. This makes the navigation very dangerous, as the land cannot be seen ; the white surf on the beach is often first seen, while the land is still hidden. In the Shat-al-'Ar&b this is sometimes so much the case that neither bank of tlie river can be seen. Out of sight of land a vessel's decks and rigging get covered with fine dust. The air during the Shemdl is generally very dry and sky cloudless, but in the winter they are sometimes attended at the commencement by rain squalls (often with thunder and lightning), which generally clear off during the breeze ; it veers during the twenty-four hours a few points, blowing more off the Persian coast, or from the northward, at night ; and off the sea, or more from the westward, in the day, which a vessel should take advantage of when working against one : it sets in at any hour of the day or night, and generally suddenly. The barometer cannot be said, as a rule, to give any warning of the approach of a Shemdl; if it was low before, it will begin to rise as soon as the Shemdl sets in, but generally not before, and continue high during the whole 'duration of the gale. It sometimes falls before a bad winter Shemdl, but rises again after the first burst of the gale ; the barometer in the surveying-ship was not at all affected by one of the heaviest Shemdls, either before, during, or after it. This breeze is sometimes pre- ceded by the drying up of the dew by night, or the dampness of the air ceasing, which is a pretty sure sign. A heavy swell from the N.W., especially in the southern part of the gulf, is often the precursor of a Shemdl, although such a swell sometimes occurs without any wind following it. Some of the heaviest winter Shemdls set in in fine weather, with no warning except a heavy bank to the N.W. an hour or two previously, which rolls down and gradually obscures all objects, and yet this occurs sometimes without any wind following. Such a warning should, however, never be disregarded. Ships should be prepared in winter, during a S.E. gale, for a sudden shift to the N. W., especially at night» as the Shemdl often blows then very strong.* The woi*st of the Shemdl is always at the beginning : frequently it does not extend over the whole gulf, and often lulls for a short time about daylight. In the summer Shemdls the wind rarely exceeds the force of a moderate gale, but in the winter they are often fresh gales, or at times hard gales ; it is generally advisable to seek shelter, if possible, during the strength of a Shemdl, as little or no way will be made against it. The Persian coast and islands offer many suitable places of shelter. During the winter months south-easters, called by the natives Shurgi or Koss, alternate with the north-westers, and, like the Shemdls, follow to a certain extent the * On 17th March, 1820. E.I.C. brig •£ wir ^r/«/, flx>m the river, boand to Bii-shehr, beating agaioat a south-easter, under double-reefed topsails. At 1 a.m., 18th, nail was fbrtber reduced, as a squall was expected flnom the N.W. This was scarcely acoorapllrhed when the squall bunt upon them, and taking her right aft, she ran through the opposing head-sea, buried herself in it, and sank about twenty miles W. by N. of Kh® Island. There were about ninety souls on board ; of these only the surgeon, boatswain, and three of the orew wei^ saved, oq a canoe which Hoiked o(r the booms. Digitized by LjOOQIC COAST WINDS— INDIAN OCEAN. 86 feRtioQ of the coast; they only blow strong from December to April. The Koss is aeofly aoeompanied by thick, gloomy weather, with hard squalls, and often much 3B, aometiines thunder and lightning. The atmosphere is moist, and the barometer rwtally low. With a falling barometer and cloudy, threatening weather, a Koss *ix be expected in the above months, but timely warning is not always to be cx< 'r-ttd, althoug'h the barometer always falls during the gale, if not before. It seldom iwvs more than three days ; its strength is generally a moderate gale, but at times »Uatw« a fresh gale; the strongest only last one day. When the wind begins to ^ttf to the southward the Kos9 is over, and is often succeeded by a Shemdl almost icBwdiaiely ; or it may blow hard for a short time at S. or S.W. and so die away, ao Siemdl oocanring for several days. The wind sometimes, however, after blowing luid at 8.W., chops round suddenly to N.W., when a strong Shemdl will follow ; the ■otion that a .Sof# is always followed by a Shemdl is not correct. K a vessel has anchored for the Koss in an anchorage open to the Shemdl, she should weigh immediately the Koss is found to be over, as she may otherwise have to ride out a N-W. gale on a lee-shore; easterly winds are of most frequent occur- Roee in tiie southern part of the gulf. In the winter, particularly in the southern part of the gulf, strong breezes are ex* penenoed from N.E., called Nathi; they are attended by dark, cloudy weather, and goienlly rain ; the natives make a distinction between tiiese breezes and the Kqss, l^e barometer is not affected by this breeze, being generally high, and if so, it will ^ a litUe when the NcuM is over ; there is sometimes a dense haze before a Nasht, c>u*«d by the dust blown off the land. This breeze often blows three or five days, mt frequently only one day ; after the first day the air becomes clearer, possibly Skemdl; they set in about 9 A.M.; there is scarcely any land wind. At liisxsrH the sea breezes are regular, and the land winds are strong, lasting till 10 a.m. ^^ the season changes— between Oct. 15th and Nov. 5th— very severe squalls (called ZeA«yjiail) may be expected j their dii*ection is uncertain. During this period ^ innttiial amount of electrical action is present, and St. Ehno's fire has been w«erred on board ship; the air is also wonderfully clear. No native vessels put to ■• •t Uns time. Should no such squalls occur before the 5th of November it is ^^'^'l wpposed that the season will be free fiom thorn until the bad weather of winter seu in, , i Digitized by VjOOQ IC 86 COAST WINDS— INDIAN OCEAN. In Basidtih roadstead veiy violent squalls hare been experienced from the N. in May ; the E.I.C. schooner Tigris drove with two anchors ahead until she struck off the hospital. Heavy squalls from the S.E.« with lightning and rain, are occasionally experienced in July. In the winter tremendous gusts blow out of the valley in the mountains (Devil's Gap) below Muskat. At the north end of tiie gulf very heavy squalls blow at times from the north* ward* A succession of squalls from opposite quarters, each lasting only a few minutes and alternating several times, is no uncommon occurrence in any part of the gulf and at any season. During winter, also, the winds are very local — a shemdl blowing at one end of the gulf, while in the centre or at the other end it may be calm, or perhaps a wind from the opposite direction, and moderate. At Bd-shehr gales of wind ?rith rain occur in January and February ; the wind is often from an opposite quarter to that at Shat-al-'Arab. The hottest weather occurs in the Persian Gulf during June, July, August, and September^ wheui on board ship, the thermometer may range from 90° to 98° Fahr* at 4 P.M. ; on shore the thermometer has risen to 124° in the shade, and 160^ in the sun. With a southerly wind the heat is almost insupportable, from the increase of moisture in the air. December is fine and cool, while January and February ai*e cold and often boisterous ; thermometer from 67° to 72° Fahr. The heavy dew in the summer months will wet the sails so that they appear as if a shower of rain had fallen ; dense fogs also occur at times near the coast in the morning, wetting everything as with rain* Calms, lasting for days together, are common in the Persian Gulf and Gulf of 'Omman ; a continuous steady breeze is rare : water-spouts, and sand-spouts on shore, are frequently observed. Bain is variable, less probably on the Arabian than on the Persian coasts and it generally falls in winter ; the barometer is not reckoned a safe guide against bad weather in the gulf, SI. Bombay and tbm CMWt to tlie ^Broounurd.—* During November and December the winds are fresh from N.E. and N. — stronger at sea than near the coast,-* but the weather is fine. In January and February the winds are more moderate, but sudden squalls from the southward and westward are occasionally experienced. During Maroh and April the N.E. Monsoon is dying out, and fresh N.W. winds alternating with calms are frequent. Off Bombay and Kurrachi, and thence seaward, during March, April, and May, the winds are variable between N.W. and B.W., after which the S.W. Monsoon sets in. Sm. direst Oo«ot of BlBdooataii.— During October and the beginning of No- vember the navigation of this coast presents many difficulties, arising from the inconstancy and variability of the winds ; subsequently, from November to March, the N.E. Monsoon is well established, and brings with it remarkably fine weather. This is also the setuonqfland and sea breezes, which to the south of Calicut extend some distance seaward; but the landbreese is tolerably fresh in December and January along the whole coast. The sea breeze commences about II a.m., or near mid-day, varying between W.S.W. and N.W., and is moderately strong; at some period between 6 p.v. and 9 p.v. a calm ensues, after which the land breese sets in from N.E. to E.S.E. These alternating winds are prevalent between Cape Comorin and Surat, and cease in March, after being rather uncertain in February. Digitized by tiOOQlC COAST WINDS— INDIAN OCEAN. 87 hijol the winds are yaiiable* between W.N. W. and N.N.W., and Bometimw U^, indicating the termination of the N.£. and approach of tlie S.W. Monsoon ; it this time a calm is not onfrequent daring the morning, after which li^t airs ^ NJS. to N. are not nnoommon. Borhig May the weather is very uncertain, being squally, with raiu, and the tiad from S. to 8. W., passing to N. W., after which it is fine. If near the hmd in % and June very strong aqoalls may be anticipated daring the night. The S.W. Monsoon sets in with dark, doady weather, and generally a strong gals £nBB 8.E. to S.W., lasting several days. The Monsoon is in its strength during June and July, with the mean direction of the wind W.8.W., and W. by S. in Aflguit; no vessels should at this aeaaon nnnecesaarily approach too near the coast. In August the squalls are frequently from W.N.W. and N.W. } in September the weather is finer, but the prevalent winds are still from W. and W.N. W., with heavy sqaalU occasionally between S.W. and W.N. W., and when these occur there are brief ivkrtaU of calm between the gusts. In the middle of the soitthbbn part of thx Ababian Sba, westward of the I^ecadivh Islands, in a rade oval area included between Lat. 5^ and 12P N., Long, a^ and 71^ £., the sky is generally cloudless, the wind light, the water smooth, ttd aqoalls seldom happen, notwithstandbg that the S.W. Monsoon may be blowing m foil force on the Arabian and Indian coasti^. This region, as well as the band of BtroDgeat Monsoon and apparent course of the rain-clouds from Africa, is shown ttt)y-i bat inconstant both as regards direction and stsength. ^ Oqrlo*.— The position of this island is such that the weather and seasons <^itiR,s. g|^ approximate to the meteorological character of the Coromand ^*^ ® Digitized by V ^-1 88 COAST WINDS— INDIAN OCEAN. while its S.W. Bide has more affinity with the Malabar ooost. The N.E. Monsoon prevails from November to Febroary, and the S.W. Monsoon from April to Sep- tember, the intervening months being periods of variable winds and calms. The N.E. Monsoon is the fine season of the west coast of the island, and the S.W. Mon- soon the wet and stormy season. Point de Gallz.— Daring the N.E. Monsoon, from December to March (inclu- sive), the harbour of Galle is always accessible, for a sea breeze, varying from S.S.£. to W., generally prevails daring a part of each day, and early in the morning the wind is from the northward, off the land. Daring the S.W. Monsoon, from April to November (inclusive), a heavy swell rolls into the mouth of the harbour from the southward, even though the wind frequently veers to the northward of W. The annual range of the thermometer is from 70^ to 87^ Fahr. CoLOMBO.-^A gale of wind may occur about the changes of the Monsoon, in the months of May, June, November, and even as late as December; though a gale in the latter month is very rare, and several years sometimes pass away without any beyond a stiff Monsoon breeze. These gales arc seldom violent, and communication between the shore and shipping is seldom interrupted, although there are occasional spells of squally weather and a high sea during the S.W. Monsoon, making the passage over the bar difficult The annual range of the thermometer is from 76^ to 87^ Fahr. In the Gulf of Manaab the N.E. Monsoon often blows with gi-eat strength even as far south as Cape Comorin, brin^^g with it the bad weather common at that season on the Coromandel coast. On the SOUTH coast of thb island, and as fab as the Bassbs, westerly winds are prevalent, more or less, throughout the year; for even during the period of the N.E. Monsoon, when the land and sea breezes are tolerably regular, the E. and N.E. winds of the morning change to W. and S.W. after mid-day. On the EAST coast of thb island the N.E. Monsoon is prevalent at the same period as on the Coromandel coast. In November the wind is from N.N.E. to E.N.E., and the weather generally squally and rainy* Heavy run falls on the north part of the island during October, November, and December. Towards the middle of December to the end of January, although the Monsoon is occasionally strong, yet it is generally moderate from N. to N.N.E., and during the remainder of the season it is at times very hazy. Gales may, however, be expected any time during No- vember, December, and January, rendering it dangerous to approach the east coast, for they blow for the most part dead on shore. At Trinoomalee the annual range of the thermometer is from 74P to 91° Fahr. In the Bay of Palk the S.S.W. winds are often very fresh and squally during May, June, and July. At the change of the Monsoon land and sea breezes are prevalent. In general, the eastern part of Ceylon, which is open to the N.E. Monsoon, par- takes of the hot and dry climate of the coast of Coromandel. The western division, which is open to the S.W. Monsoon, has a climate like that of the MaUbar coast, which is temperate and humid. The N.E. winds, although accompanied with rain, are drier than those from the S.W., and the country over which they blow has an arid appearance as contrasted with the luxuriant verdure of the southern and western districts, which continues during the greater part of the year. The driest seasons Digitized by LjOOQIC COAST WINDS— INDIAN OCEAN. 89 tt those which occur between the range of the two Monsoonsy partaking slightly of lieiatnence of both. The dimate and seasons of the northern and southern districts may be thus takingly contraated. On one side of the island, and even on one side of a mountain, the rain may fall in torrents, while on the other the earth is parched and the herbage vithoed. The inhabitants in one place may be securing themselTCs from inuuda- tioBs, while in another they are carefully distributing the little water of former attons, which is retained in their wells and tanks. S«. Bagr o€ Bengal.-- In the middle of the Bay of Bengal, during the N.E. Monsoon, the winds vary from N.N.E. to E.N.E. ; during the S.W. Monsoon their direction is generally from the southward, and more persistent at sea than near the fiOttt. In March variable winds from S.W. to S., veering even to £. and N.E., are preraknt ; frequently when the wind is from S. near the coast, it may vary from X.E. to S.E. at sea. In April and May S.S.W. and S.W. winds are prevalent, varying to W.S.W. in May ; when the breesce is light and variable, in April, it is occasionally in- tcmpted by calms; and should it veer to N.E. and E., it may blow fresh, if not EtroDi^. In June, July, and August, the S.W. Monsoon is at its height, variable between 8.W. and W. ; towards the end of July, and during August, it may veer to W JST.W. orN.W. In September and October the prevalent winds are W» and S.S.W. ; these, from t^e middle of August to the commencement of October, are accompanied by heavy run; after the middle of September the Monsoon b^ins to die away, and winds, finable between N.E. and N.N.W., are not uncommon. In November variable winds from N.- :^ ' ,-'.•!. ^ f H^ - -u c- ^ . ■-/ ^ '^ r ^ '- »\ V - ^ ' •>.•*• |v", k >! ^'^ r-« . ,- -,<-;----. • • ^ :- ■ s '-^ . V ?: ..: ■ •>• -.A (>' ■• /-■- '■''•'.■. •• • <.- •■- % . •' \ -;^-'"^-' 1 s?-'^; ■/Mil 5- V fe*3|i h --(? '5 -V^} %4t: ___*• *»► ^ ' ^i x; ^ ; hM ta! i ■J' 1 i 1 Digitized by vl^( St o c > c > ■.— • 8a 3 < 3 la z i 2 WINDS OF THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 97 On the N.W. Bide of the island of Tlmor» from October to FebraaTj, the I.W. Monsoon, yariable between N. and W., is fully established, bat is at its height «ij in December and Jannarj, when the rains fall, which, however, last till February; dii is a season of overcast, squally weather, and the wind is often very strong, from W. to N.N.E. Towards the end of April the easterly Monsoon, variable between L and S.S.E., brings fine weather, and is stronger than on the south side of the idand. On both coasts land and soa breezes set in with the fine season, the land breeze on the south coast being from N.E. to N., the sea breeze from S.S.E. to SJS.W. (Sales may be expected on the south coast in October, on the north coast not before December. ee. In that part of the Ocean between the Indian ArcUpelaco and tbe Vortb Coast of Australia calms are very frequent at all seasons of the year, and Monsoon- like weather is always more or less prevalent. The westerly Monsoon, variable between S.W. and N. W., begins in October and ends in April, blowing with ooQstderable strength and in squalls during December, January, and February. The £. and S.E. Monsoon, from May to September, is the fine season. These remarks apply also to the Ocean as far west as the meridian of Christmas Island. i Java flea.— The following observations are by CAFTiiK Janssk, of the Datcb Royal Navy:* — "In the Java Sea, during the month of February, the W. Monsoon blows strong almost continually; in March it blows intermittingly, and with bard squalls ; but in April the squalls become less frequent and leas severe. Now tbe changing oommenoes; all at once gusts begin to spring up from the E. ; they are often followed by cakns. The clouds which crowd themselves on the dear aky give wammg of the combat in the upper air which the currents there are about to wage with each other. The electricity, driven thereby out of its natural channels, in which, unobserved, it has been performing silently, but with the full eonsciottsnesa of its power, the mysterious task appointed to it, now displays itself witii dazzling miyesty; its sheen and its voice fill with astonishment and deep leverenoe the mind of the sailor — so susceptible, in the presence of storm and dark- ness, to impressions that inspire feelings b6th of dread and anxiety, which by pre- tended ooenpstions he strives in vain to conoeal.f Day and night we now have thunderstorms. The clouds are in continual movement, and the darkened air, Isden with vapour, flies in all directions through the skies. The combat which the douds seem to court and to dread appears to make them more thirsty than ever. They resort to eztraordinaiy means to refresh themselves ; in tunnel form, when time and opportunity fiiil to allow them to quench their thirst from the surrounding atmosphere in the usual manner, they descend near the surface of the sea, and appear to lap the water directly up with their black mouths. Water-spouts thus created are often seen in the changing season, especially among small groups of islandtt, which appear to facilitate their formation.^ The water-spouts are not always accom- * B^draga Nataorkttndlge BeschrUriDg der xe&a, vertaald door M. n. Jansbv, Lnitenant t Ho pheaonena ia nature make a deeper impression npon the sailor tlian a duk thunder- rtem Is m ealm mt sea. — Jaksxit. X I aevar aswmore water-spoats then in the Archipelago of Biomi Siagen daring the changing^ AimostdaD^weiawoneormoie.— Jansbn. ^^^i^ jj Digitized by VjOOQIC 08 WINDS OP THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO, paniad by strong windf ; freqaently more than one is seen at a time, whereupon the elonds whenoe they proceed disperse in various directions, and the ends of the water* spouts bending over, finally cause them to break in the middle, although the water which is now seen forming around their base has suffered little or no moyement laterally." Water-'ipwUi,—** Tet often the wind preyents the formation of water-spouts. In their stead the wind-spout shoots up like an arrow, and the sea seems to try in Tain to keep it back. The sea, lashed into fury, marks with foam the path along which the conflict rages, and roars with the noise of its water-spouts; and woe to the rash mariner who yentures therein!* The height of the spouts is usually somewhat less than 600 feet, and their diameter not more than 20 feet, yet they are often taller and thicker ; when the opportunity of correctly measuring them has been ihyourable, howeyer, as it generally was when they passed between the islands, so that the distance of their bases could be accurately determined, I have never found them higher than SIOO feet, nor thicker than 160 feet. In October, in the Archi- pelago of Bio, they travel from N.W. to S.E. They seldom last longer than five minutes I generally they are dissipated in less time. As they are going away, the bulbous tube, which is as palpable as that of a thermometer, becomes broader at the base, and little douds, like steam from the pipe of a locomotive, are continually thrown off from the circumference of the spout, and gradually the water is released, and the doud whence the spout came again closes its mouth." The Eiut Monsoon in iko Jaioa Sea. — " Daring the changing of the Monsoons it \a mostly calm or oool, with genUe breezes, varied with rain-storms and light gales firom all points of the compass. They are harassing to the cr«w, who, with burning &oes under the clouded skies,t impatiently trim the sails to the changing winds. However, the atmosphere generally becomes clear, and, contrary to expecta- tion, the N.B. wind comes from a clear sky ; about the coming of the Monsoon it is northerly. Now the clouds are again packed together ; the wind dies away, but it will soon be waked up to come again from another point. Finally, the regular land and sea broeses gradually replace rain, and tempests, calms, and gentle gales. The rain holds up during the day, and in the Java Sea we have the E. Monsoon. It is then May. Farther to the south than the Java Sea the £. Monsoon com- mences in ApriLt This Monsoon prevails till September or October, when it turns to become the W. Monsoon. It has seemed to me that the E. Monsoon does not blow the same in every month, that its direction becomes more southerly, and its power greater after it has prevailed for some time.§ • Tbs alr-«pm N Ji. to W.N.W. may be expected as far as Lat. 14^ S., beyond which they haul to E. and S.E. Between the Monsoons there are oflen long calms, and the sea at that time abounds with water-snakes : the period when the S.E. changes to the K.W* Monsoon is most liable to these calms. At the approach of the Monsoon, W. winds oflen blow for fire or six days, and then dying away are saoceeded for a week or so by lighti Taiiable airs : at fall or change the true Monsoon sets in, with thick, rainy, and squally weather; this lasts a few days, after which it clears up and the breeze is moderate, bringing finer weather than the E. Monsoon, and certainly the land is more distinctly visible. At the limit of this Monsoon, in 16^ S., I have always found rainy and squally weather. The mean direction of the wind is from WJE7.W« to W.S.W., hauling to N.W. and 8.W. y#« •enof ft l WLmntWkM on ttie Matay AreldpeUtgo.— The following addi-* tional remarks on the Archipelago, from a paper recently read at the Boyal Geo' graphical Society, are at once interesting and instructive, and convey an excellent general summary of the seasons of this region :*— " The contrasts of vegetation and of climate in the Archipelago may be best con- sidered together, the one being to some extent dependent on the other. " Placed immediately upon the Equator, and surrounded by extensive oceans, it is not surprising that the various islands of the Archipelago should be almost always clothed with a forest vegetation from the level of the sea to the summits of the loftiest mountains. This is the general rule. Sumatra, New Guinea, Borneo, the Filippinesi and the Moluccas, and the uncultivated parts of Java and Celebes, are all forest countries, except a few small and unimportant tracts, due perhaps, in some cases, to andeut cultivation or accidental fires. To this, however, there is one important exception in the Island of Timor and all the smaller islands opposite, in which there is absolutely no forest such as exists in the other islands, and this character extends in a lesser d^pree to Flores, Sumbawa, Lombock, and Bali. " In Timor the most common trees are JEuca^fpti of several species, so charae^ teristic of Australia, with sandalwood, acacia, tmd other sorts in less abundance. These are scattered over the country more or less thickly, but never so as to deserve) the name of a forest. Coarse and scanty grasses grow beneath them on the more barren hills, and a luxuriant herbage in the moister localities. In the islands between l^or and Java there is often a more thickly-wooded country, but thorny and prickly trees abound. They seldom reach any great height, and during the force of the dry season they almost completely lose their leaves, allowing the groond to be parched beneath them, and contrasting strongly with the damp, gloomy, ever- rerdant fiveats of the other islands. This peculiar character, which extends in a less degree to the southern peninsula of Celebes and the east end of Java, is most pro- * * Jov. B07. OMg. 80c,** ToL xziiU., p. 324. *« Waxxags on tlM PhysiMl G«ogra»l» «f IM • Digitized by VjOOQIc 104 WINDS IN THE CHINA SEA. bably owing to the proximity of Australia. The S.E. Monsoon, which lasts for about two-thirds of the year (from March to November), blowing over the nortliem parts of that country, produces a degree of heat and dryness which assimilates the vegetation and physical aspect of the adjacent islands to its own. A little farther eastward in Timorlaut and the Ee islands a moister climate prevails, the S.E. winds blowing from the Pacific through Torres Straits, and, as a consequence, every rocky islet is clothed with verdure to its very summit. Further west again, as the same winds blow over a wider and wider extent of ocean, they have time to absorb fresh moisture, and we accordingly find the Island of Java possessing a less and less arid climate in the dry season, till, in the extreme west, near Batavia, rain occurs more or less all the year round, and the mountains are everywhere clothed with forests of unexampled luxuriance. " The changes of the Monsoons and of the wet and dry seasons in some parts of the Archipelago are very puzzling ; and an accurate series of observations in numerous localities is required to elucidate them. ''Speaking generally," says Mb. Wallace, "the whole south-western part of tho Archipelago, inchiding the whole range of islands from Sumatra to Timor, with the larger half of Borneo and tho southern peninsula of Celebes, has a dry season from April to November, with the S.E. Monsoon. This same wind, however, bends round Borneo, becoming tho S.W. Monsoon in the China Sea, and bringing the rainy season to northern Borneo and the Filippines. " In the Moluccas and New Guinea the seasons are most uncertain. In the S.E. Monsoon, from April to November, it is often stormy at sea, while on the islands it is very fine weather. There is generally not more than two or three months of dry, hot weather, about August and September. This is the case in the northern ex- tremity of Celebes and in Boero, whereas in Amboina July and August are tho worst months in the year. In Temate, where I resided at intervals for three years, I never could find out which was the wet and which the dry season. The same is the case at Banda, and a similar uncertainty prevails in Menado, showing probably that the proximity of active volcanoes has a great disturbing meteorological influ- ence. In New Quinea a great amount of rain falls, more or less, all the year round. On the whole, the only general statement we can make seems to be that the countries within about 3° on each side of the Equator have much rain and not very strongly contrasted seasons ; while those with more soutli or north latitudes, have daily rains during about four months in the year, while for five or six months there is almost always a cloudless sky and a continual drought." n* Wladfl la the OU&a Sea. — In the China Sea tho Monsoon periods have not the same regularity as in the Indian Ocean ; they have already been sketched at p. 22, and are indicated graphically on Chabt Diagbams VI., VII., VIII.,and IX., where, as before, the direction of the arrotM ghows the point of the horizon towards which the stream of air is moving. The greater persistency of tho N.E. over the S.W. Monsoon is deai'ly shown by these Diagrams, as well as the variability of the latter. The following Table is from Mauby's " Nautical Monographs, No. I. ;" it gives the average winds and calms in the China Sea, the total number qf observations in each band qf latitude, the mean direction qf the wind from each quarter, and the average annual duration qfeach wind in daysi-^ Digitized by LjOOQIC WINDS IN THE CHINA SEA. 106 Bands in Latitude. 1 Mean Direction of the Winds, No. of Daysof Calm. No. of Obs. 1 Lait. 30^ to 26° N. N.28°E. S. 44° E. S.34°W. N.36°W. 'No. of days. . . 189 43 72 60 1 318 Lat.25°to200N. N.47°E. S.47°E. 8.39°W. N.32°W. No. of days . . . 199 80 66 26 4 2664 Lat 20°tol5°N. N.47°E. S. 47° E. S. 32°W. S.33°W. No. of days . . . .175 84 73 29 4 4298 Lat, 16° to 10° N. N.46°E. S. 46° E. S.51°W. S.49°W. 1 No. of days. . . 136 68 116 42 4 6358 1 Lat.lOPto6°N. . N.43°E. S. 42° E. S.42°W. S.61°W. < No. of days. . . Lat 6° N. to Eq. . 126 64 134 46 7 4672 N.38°E. S.37°E. S.34°W. S.46°W. No. of days , . . 106 86 113 48 13 3834 Li the K0BTH-WE8TBBK FAST OF THB China Sea the N.E. MoDsoon commences about tiie middle of October; in the southbbn part it rarely appears before November. It generally sets m with a sadden storm, in which the wind increases in force very rapidly, and produces a great swell ; consequently, exposed anchorages should be avoided. This outburst lasts a week or more ; occasionally, however, the Monsoon sets in without any storm. It is at its height in December and January. The whole period is one of dark, cloudy weather, and heavy rain ; and usually a high, turbulent sea is experienced when the wind has been strong for a few days, especially near Pulo-Safata, and thence to the Stbaits of Sincafobb. Off the coast of Luzoir, although the winds are generally from N. and N.E. during the N.E. Monsoon, still they often veer to N.W. and W., blowing strong, with cloudy weather and a oopiotis rainfall. During February the wind in the China Sea moderates and blows steadily, bringing fine weather. On the Luzon coast, land and sea breezes are not uncommon during this month, and during March and April become more or less prevalent over the whole China Sea. (Chabt Diaobams .YI. and YII.) Towards the end of April the S.W. Monsoon sets in ; but notwithstanding this, the winds are still light and variable at sea during May, with land and sea breezes near the coast. The Monsoon is at its height during June, July, and August, when the weather is cloudy and rainy; but the wind, though generally fresh, is rarely stormy, except near the entrance to the Gulf of Siam, whence hard squalls sometimes descend very suddenly. In September, winds fVom N. and E. are occasionally en- countered in any part of the China Sea, but they are especially to bo expected near Formosa in July, August, and September, though the prevailmg wind is S.W. Wind and weather are very unsettled in October ; from S.W. and W. to N.W. the wind shifts to N. and E.N.E., puffy and strong, after which the Monsoon sets in. (Chabt Diaobams YIII. and IX.) During the period of the S.W. Monsoon the winds are never as strong, nor tlic weather so gloomy as during the prevalence of the N.E. Monsoon ; it is difficult to beat against the latter, but it is very common to make good progress against the former, especially by taking advantage of the breezes near the coast. Skvxbb OALB8, Commencing at N.N.W. or N.W., and accompanied by gloomy weather and a deluge of rain, occur in some seasons during May, June, July, and Digitized by LjOOQIC 106 WINDS IN THE CHINA SEA. Angost; veering to W. and S.W., tbey still blow with great violence, and finally abate at S. Dnring the same time strong S.W« or S. gales prevail in the middle of the China Sea. Strong N.E. gales have occurred in the China Sea during the S.W. .Monsoon; but this is rare. On the south coast of China steady gales from N.E. or E.N.E., lasting several days, may be expected in September or October ; at the same time, on the west coast of Luzon, they commence at N. or N.W., veering by W. to S.W. and 8., with heavy rain and a heavy cross sea. 78. Malaeea.— On the east coast of Malacca heavy, continuous ndn falls during the N.E. Monsoon. During the change to the S.W. Monsoon strong gales may be expected, after which the wind is moderate or light for some time. With the S.W. Monsoon, from April to October, the weather is fine on the east coast, but squally and generally bad on the west coast of the peninsula. On the east coast in June the wind is from S.E. during the day, veering to west- ward towards evening, whence it blows until 10 or 11 A.K. 79. Between Falo-nniaaB and Pnlo-Condore the NE. Monsoon has set in towards the middle or end of October; at Fulo-Timoan the winds are exceedingly variable from September, and the change of the Monsoon brings at times very bad weather. The N.E. Monsoon is the fine season, and is generally established by November ; nevertheless, during this month, storms with rain do occur, and perhaps a hurricane. The S.W. Mansoon brings the rainy season, and frequently lasts seven months ; at Pulo-Condore it rains for a month after the N.E. Monsoon has set in. •d. Ckdf of Manu*— From the position of the Gulf of Siam the Monsoon winds are irregular, and the seasons vary. At sea the S.W. Monsoon begins in April with rain, which lasts during May and June. From June to September the winds are more westerly, but still with ram. On the coast southerly winds prevail from March to May, but from June to September they are from S.W. — generally very strong near Pnlo^Oby. During September they are variable* In October the Monsoon changes, and the weather is squally i in November, December, and January, the wind is N. and the weather fine. Daring February variable winds between S. and £. are prevalent; and now, as well as in March, land and sea breezes are tolerably regular. On the west coast of the Gulf of Siam, during May, and thence to July, when the S.W. Monsoon Is at its height, a land wind sometimes preTails, lasting from three to ten days. 61. Cambodia. — On the coast of Cambodia the Monsoons are irreguhur, and land and sea breezes are more or less constant, those daring the N.E. Monsoon being generally much fresher than at the period of the S.W. Monsoon, and lasting longer. In June, July» and August, heaty rain falls, and the wind is strong from the aw. Digitized by LjOOQIC WINDS IN THE CHINA BEA. 107 On thai part of the OoMt between tte Ckdf of BUm moA Ciq^ MUbunm the N.E. Monfloon hegum with October, and ends daring April. When the S.W. Monaoon seta in it blowa parallel with the coast ^ ->hipa approaching the land at night firequentlj experience a light land breeie, which dying away tenmnatea in a brief calm, after which the Monsoon is fresh dnring the day. •S. cleftmn'CihlBa^ Near the coast the Monsoons are nerer strong, and the winds are more or less variable throughout the year. Heavy rain falls in September, October, and November, with the N.E. Monsoon i and from December to February there is a kind of winter, with northerly winds and occasional rain. Daring the N.E. Monsoon the wind is often easterly between the coast and the Paracek, and thence to Cape Yserela; calms are often prevalent in the vicinity of the Fteaoeb, while to seaward the Monsoon is fresh. Daring the S. W. Monsoon land and sea breeiea are prevalent al<»ig the coast ; the land breeze is irr^^lar in the time of setting in, although it is sure to come at acme hour daring the night t after a calm or gentle, light air till mid-day, a fresh S.£. wind springs up. •«. Ckdf of Vettg-4^ria«— >mh the S.W. Monsoon comes tiie rainy and hot season, which, banning in April, lasts till Aug^ti in September and October the weather is moderately fine. In November, when the N.E. Monsoon sets in, fresh northerly winds may be expected, veering to £. and E.S.E. towards the end of the month ; in December N.N.E. to E. winds bring foggy weather ; in January and Febraary fresh N.E. and N.N.E. breezes are prevalent, with cold weather. In March the Monsoon has died ont, and wanner weather is approaching. Typhoons occ»- sionaUy enter the gulf. •S. Bataaa and the SMitb c«Mt of c»tfaa.— -The N.E. Monsoon from EJN.E. very generally blows along the land; at times, however, it hauls to SJS. Daring the S. W. Monsoon S. and S.E. winds are very prevalent ; in Jane, July, and August, heavy rain falls, and the weather is usually overcast and gloomy. •#• From the entrance of the Oanton Btvw to the Ohwaati lalaada* the N.E. Monaooa usoaUy hlows from the beginning of October to the end of April. It sets in s t rongest in the months of November, December, and January, its medium force being a doable«reefed-top6ail breeze for a frigate when close-hauled ; but ftequentlyi owii^ to the heavy sea running, a press of sail cannot be carried, and it is therefore neeessaiy at all times to keep as close in-shore as possible, where, owing to the con- formation of the land, the rapidity of the tide, and other local circumstancesi smoother water will always be found; Daring the period of this Monsoon severe gales, lasting for two or three consecu- tive days, occur at times ; it is then supposed that a Typhoon is blowing not far distant, and when the g^le breaks the wind usually becomes light and to the south- ward of £. for a few days. It will again freshen up for a week or ten days togetiier to a steady breeze, for treble-reefed topsails and reefed courses, with a high, short, sea, particalarly at the entrance of the Formosa Channel. • OAtT. O. B. Muimv, H.H.. II. "H«rt. lug.." iu;^Mh, boogie 108 WINDS IN THE CHINA SEA. In October, November, and December, the atmosphere is moderately clear, rata and thick weather seldom lasting without a break for twenty-fonr hours. In January, February, and March, hazy weather with thick mist is not unfrequent. In April the Monsoon begins to slacken, light southerly winds for a day or two occasionally blow, and foggy, dirty weather, with returning heavy squalls and rain from N.E, will again set in and continue till the middle of May. These remarks only apply to that part of the China Sea to the northward of the Canton Biver. The S.W. Monsoon, variable between S.S.W. and S., begins in June and ends in October: this is the season when squally weather prevails, and when Typhoons • occur. 87. In the Formosa Cbaimel bad weather may be experienced at any season of the year. During the S.W. Monsoon heavy squaUs with rain are common. SB. Off the BMhees the N.E. Monsoon, from N.£» to EJ^.E., blows strong and raises a high sea. S9. Among the niipplaes the N.E. Monsoon commences in October; fine weather may then be expected until April, with winds variable between N. and N.E. i if they veer to N.W. they generally blow hard. The S.W. Monsoon may be expected at the end. of May, but is not regularly established until June. During this season the weather is dark and gloomy, exceed- ingly wet and foggy. In September the rain abates, but fogs still prevail, lasting till mid-day. The worst Typhoons occur in July and August* 90. Palawan. — On the coast of Palawan the winds are variable during October, November, and December, offering no obstruction to vessels proceeding either to the N.E. or S.W. ; but the weather is often cloudy and rainy. Near the southern part of the island, however, strong S. W. winds, with overcast sky, may be expected in September and daring the early part of October. The Monsoons are, however, so subject to interruption from local causes that it is difficult to say at what period either fairly sets in. The following is the expe- rience of the late Comhandeb W. T. Bate, R.N., when employed surveying the coast ia the Moralist : — " la November and December the weather is variable ; N.E. and easterly winds, changing at times to S.E., more frequently prevail. In the former month a south- wcttterly blow, with dark, cloudy weather and rain, is not unusual, and one of the heaviest gales experienced shifted to N.W. just before the change of moon, and lasted till the end of the quarter. *' In January, when the N.E. Monsoon is blowing steadily, and sometimes with great violence, in the China Sea, moderate N.E. and easterly winds prevail on the coast of Palawan, and on the coast of Luzon land and sea breezes have been expe- rienced with considerable regularity. "In April, when light N.E. and frequently S.E. winds prevail in the China Sea, N.E. and easterly winds usually blow steadily on the coast of Palawan, freshening considerably after daylight, and dying away towards sunset. " May and the early part of June, appear to be the finest period of the year oil Digitized by LjOOQIC WINDS.-.JAPAN, ETC. 109 the eosBi of PaUwio, when hud and sea breezes prevail with tolerable regularity, the fonner ooming fireeh from the S. and S.E. in the morning, and the latter from the K. and N.W. in the afternoon. '' Towards the end of June, and throughout July, unsettled weather, generally commencing about the change of moon, may be expected. A slight depression of the meroory, after a succession of fine weather, frequently indicates the approach of atroDg W.S.W.*ly squalls, which are usually accompanied by dark, cloudy weather and much rain, lasting for a week or ten days. These are generally succeeded by a period of fine weather, with N.W. and S.W. winds, which draw to the southward and eastward in the mornings. If June or July has been unsettled, it may be expected that August generally will be fine, with moderate S. W., but more frequently westerly winds, particularly in the aflemoon. " If, on the oontrary, June or July has been tolerably fine, very unsettled weather may be expected in August. In either of these months, when strong S.W. squalls hare succeeded a period of fine weather, vessels will not unfrequently, in the S.W. part of the passage, experience a weatherly set of the current. " In September and October the wind generally blows strong from the W.S. W., with dark, cloudy weather ; and off the S.W. end of Palawan, squalls, which veer to W.N.W. and K.W., sometimes blowing with great violence, succeed each other rapidly, and are accompanied by rain. Between the squalls the wind very often shifts to S.E. " The barometer is of little use in prognosticating the changes $ the difference in the column of mercury for the whole year, except in cases where the condition of the atmosphere has been disturbed by some physical cause, such as the approach of one of those violent cydones known in the China Sea by the name of Typhoon, seldom exceeding -^ths of an inch. In general the mercury rises to N.E. and easterly winds, and falls' to S.W. and westerly ; but in some instances we have knowa the reverse of this to occur, doubtless from some such disturbing cause as above- mentioned, when the barometer by falling or rising indicates as usual the approach and recesaion of the vortex." •1. During the expedition of the American squadron to JapMi the following obanrvations were gathered : — " The S.W. Monsoon sweeps over tlie Loo-Choc group, and reaches the southern shores of Japan and the Benin Islands. "At Nafda, Loo-Choo, we found it prevailing steadily in May and June, and veering to the southward and eastward in July. In August the wind was very changeable, and blew at times quite strong, with squally, rainy weather. " The N.£. Monsoon set in about the 1st of September, and continued until the departure of the squadron on the 7th of February, being, however, interrupted during the winter months by fresh gales from the northward and westward, which were generally accompanied by heavy ndn. " The climate of Loo*Choo is as free fi*om the severity of winter's cold or sum* mer's heat as any in the world; and the island is nearly, if not quite, as healthy as any on the bosom of the sea. ' Droughts' are spoken of in an official Loo-Choo dccmnent, and we know that the country is in the direct range of Typhoons or hur.- cicaneB. These drawbacks are not frequent. . ^^^.^ ^ Digitized by VjOOgle 110 WINDB.-JAPAN, ETO. ^ At th« Bomr Islands, in April, the wind wns TarlablA $ in Jane it wis from the southward and westward, and in Odoher from the northward and eastward. The passage from Loo-Choo, in October, was found to be exceedingly boisterons by the United States ship Plymouth. ** On the COAST of Japah northerly winds were most prevalent in Febmary, March, and April ; and during this period we had occasionally strong gales, which most fre- quently commenced at S.W., hauling to the northward and westward, and were accompanied with heavy nun. In May and July we had south-westerly winds, and in June they were variable. ** During our stay in Jataxt, from February to June, the weather was generally pleasant. In tiie Bay of Yedo the mean temperature for Febmary was 44^ Fahr., and the apricot and camelia japonica were in full bloom. **l^hoowt, — ^The whole region from Formosa to the Bouins is within the track of these storms, though we believe they seldom reach the coast of Ji^an. The season during which they may be expected is from May to November, inclusive ; but in the neighbourhood of the Bonins they seem to occur more frequently in October. "i^^«.— >We had but few fogs on the coast of Japan. They commenced at Hakodadi about the Ist of June, but did not extend as far south as Simoda." •2. The winds that generally prevail on the east ooaat of Japan are :-^January to May, W. and N.W. ; May, variable ; June to August, E. to E.N.E., and some- times S.E. ; September to December, W. and N.W. October is a bad month for navigation, and from the middle of August to the middle of October is the worst season for cyclones, which blow with great fury, and give but little warning. From December to June the climate is delightful— clear, cool, and bracing. The mean range of the barometer throughout the year is from 29*70 to 30^ inches. The tange of the thermometer, mean 26^ to 7QP, extreme 14^ to 74°. •S. In the months of August and September, lS58-rthe period H.M.S. FurUnu remained in Tedo Bay — ^heavy gales from the E.N.E., shifling round to the S.W., and increasing in force, were frequent. Winds from W., lound northerly to E.N.E., generally brought fine weather, and ndn when between S.E. and S.W. During H.M.S. Saracen's survey of the Btratt of Tmigar — ^May, June, July, and August, 1855 — the prevailing winds were from the S., with much fine, clear weather. The wind was less frequent from the N.W. than any other quarter. Dense fogs prevailed in May and June ; after that period they were comparatively rare. The wind, in shifting, usually followed the course of the sun. After a few days of Ught southerly wind and fine weather it freshened, and veered to the westward, ac- companied by fine, clear, and cold weather. At N.W. it usually died away, or flew round suddenly to the eastward ; in the latter case it was always followed by a dense fog or a gale, the weather getting fine agaiu as the wind veered to the soutiiward. •«. Tlia Kadronea, or MaHana lUanda.— The N.E. and S.W. Monsoons of the China Sea extend to these islands, notwithstanding their distance from the Asiatic continent. The strongest winds blow in August, September, October, and November, from N.W. to S.W., sometimes from S. to S.E. ; in December, January, and February, wind and weather are variable ; during March, April, May, and June, when the wind is from N.E. and E., the season is extremely fine. V^^^f^^f^^ ^^ WINDS^AUSTBALIA, ETC. Ill and thnnderi m well ai gmenl bad wefttfaer, may be ezpeoied irom July to Norem* ber. Typhoon! an not nnknoini, bat they occur at intenralB of a few yean. AUSTBALU AND TASMANIA. tS. West CoMrt of AostnUla. — The prevaleut winds are fi!*om S.S.W. and S.S.E., especially from October to April, the sammer season ; from April to October, the winter, the re^larity of the sontberly winds is interrupted by strong breezes from the north-westward, accompanied by cloudy weather, and rain or mist. Land and sea breezes are experienced near the coast ; the former, from S.E. and E., gra- dually die out towards noon, and after a calm the sea breeze from W. to S.S.W. gradually draws round to B. towards sunset. The westeriy Monsoon of the N.W. coast, generally prevalent from N.W. to 8.W., blows from W. and W.N.W. in Norember and December, but It is scarcely more than a sea breeze. N.W. gales are not frequent, but hurricane squalls from E.S.E. to N.E., lasting about two houn daring the night, are very terrific; they give ample warning by a bank of clouds and much lightning in the quarter whence they come. The prevailing winds at Bwaa Blver are as follows :»>In December, January, and Februazy, 8. and Sil.W. winds during the day, and S.S.E. to S,E. winds at night ; these are oocaaionaUy intermpted by strong and oppressive gusts from the E, In March and April the sea breeze is moderate, and the land breeze more perceptible; calms are frequent, as well as light airs from the northward; when the sea breeze is strong the land breeze is light, and vice versd. May brings winter and rain; the wind beginning at N.N.E., veers to the westward with increasing strength ; but the rain is not continuous, for there are intervals of fine weather, when the climate is beautiM, and when the land and sea breezes are as regular as during the summer. The N.W. gales of winter are very violent, and the weather is then gloomy and rainy; the west coast is then a lee-shore, for commencing at N.NE., and shifting to the westward, it blows hardest between W.N.W. and W.S.W. Sudden squalls of a hurricane character, shifting round the compass, may be occasionally expected, but they are of short duration. The barometer generally foretells all these gales a day or BO befi>re they commence. •#• Sowtli Coast of AnstnOla.— -In the vicinity of Cape Leeuwin the winds are generally from the westward throughout the year : frequently during the summer from N.W. in the night, and from S.W. in the latter part of the day, but with no regularity. Between the Archipelago of the Becherche and Cape Northumberland tbe prevalent winds from the middle of January to the middle of April are between S.E. and E Jf .B., moderate, and generally fine ; they partake of the nature of land and sea hneaesi W. and S.W. gales, should they occur at this season, seldom blow home on tbe coast Along the whole southern ooast of Australia, and as far as Bass Strait, the strongest lad most durable winds are from the south-westward, frequently rising to heavy giles varying between B. by W. and N. by £. ; they produce at all times a long, rolUng swell, which, however, is almost incessant from April to November. Caftaik Flutdsbs remarks,* ''thatthe progress of the gales is usually this : thebarometer fklls * ** ▲ ^sysfs to Tena AiiitnUf." by UAxnaw Fxtinnnss, Gommandsr of tbe ifwetti(foior, 1S14. Vol I p. Ml, et seq. Digitized by LjOOQIC 112 WINDS— AUSTRALIA, ETC. to 29} inches, or lover, and the wind rises from the north-westward, with thick weather, commonly with rain ; it then veers gradually to the westward, increasing in strength, and generally clearing up as soon as it obtains any southing. At S.W. the gale blows hardest, and the barometer rises ; and by the time it reaches S. or S.S.E., it becomes moderate, with fine weather, and the barometer above 30 inches. Sometimes the wind may back round to W. or something to the northward, with a fall in the mercury, and with diminishing strength, or perhaps die away ; but the gale is not over, although a cessation of a day or two may take place. In some cases the wind flies round suddenly from N.W. to S.W. ; and the rainy, thick weather then continues a longer time. ** Such is the usual course of the gales along the south coast and in Bass Strait ; but on the east side of the strait the winds partake of the nature of those on the east coast, where the gale often blows hardest between S. and S.E., and is accompanied with thick weather, and frequently with heavy rain." These observations are further corroborated by Cokicakdeb Hbnsy L.Con,R.N., from an experience of four years on the coast of Victoria; and he adds, that " gales sometimes commence from K.E., thence round by N. to N.W., and con- tinue as above described ; they are experienced at all seasons of the year, and their usual duration is from three to four days, causing a furious sea on the coast. July, Augput, and September, are usually the wettest months; but this is uncertain, the largest floods recorded being in December." •7. BaM Btnat.— The prevailing winds are S.W. for nine months in the year. During January, February, and March, N.E. winds, with dear weather, are not un- frequent, but they do not last for many days in succession. Squalls from S W. and S.E. may be expected on the east side of the strait, as well as on the coast of Taskakia ; the latter are very strong, and when blowing from the coast between Cape Howe and Wilson Promontory should be avoided. •a. Taamanta^ — From April to October W.N.W. and N.W. winds prevail; these are interrupted at times by S.E. winds from October to March. Moderate breezes from N.E. are not uncommon on the east coast. Approaching Tasmania from the southward and westward, carefully avoid falling in with its rocky and dangerous coast at night, for you may be out in your reckoning, or may be caught in a S.W. gale. During February, March, and the beginning of April, winds from S.E. to S. are very common off the South Cape. 99. Bast Coast of Anatralla.— Northward of the Tropic the S.E. Trade-wind is regular from the end of April until September ; this is the fine season. From October to April N.W. winds are prevalent, with rain and general'bad weather. In the vicinity of the Tropic, and thence to Sydney, there is considerable varia- tion ; here the S.E. Trade only blows home during summer, but may be interrupted by NW. breezes at any time ; gales from the S.E. may be expected in December, January, February, and March, especially during the two latter months. From May to September, the winter, westerly winds bring fine weather ; gales at this period come from N.E. and S., always bringing rain. M Sandy Caps the S,E. Trade prevails at least nine months in the year. Digitized by OOOQ IC WINDS— AUSTRALIA— E. COAST. 118 South and Bonth-easterl j breezes are generally prevalent at Post Stbphbits dnrinj^ the summer, as well as land and sea breezes ; the sea breeze sets in at S.E., and Teera to N.E. as the day advances ; daring the winter strong westerly winds are ▼erj common. On the N.E. coabt the hot N.W. wind of summer is almost always followed by sxidden squalls varying from S.E. to S.S.W. Northward of Sandy Cape, at the entraaoe to Torrea Btralta, and in the fSorml Aea« the winds, though generally from N.W., are not persistent during the period of the N.W. Monsoon— from November to March— and are interrupted by calms and rain, as well as by occasional heavy gales— with rain, thunder, and lightning. These Westerly winds are steadier and stronger 200 to 400 miles to Maward than nearer the coast, but beyond that they become light, and finally give place to the S.E. Trade. From April to September the S.E. Trade is the prevalent wind along the N.E. eoaat^ with land and sea breezes near the shore; tiie weather is generally fine, though squalls and gales may be expected at the commencement of the season — during March and May. Captaik Dekhau, while surveying the Cobal Sea, found the S.E. Trade firequently interrupted by variable wind and calms« and by occasional heavy gales. lOO. Bydiiey. — Land and sea breezes are regular at Sydney from October to April, the former lasting only from midnight to 8 a.m. ; these are occasionally interrupted by hot winds from N.W., which last from twelve hours to three days, and are always followed by heavy breezes from the southward, which come on without much warn- ing. From April to October winds from N.W. to S. W. rule, with fine weather ; occasionally there may be gales fi-om the N. or S., with gloomy weather and rain. At the spring equinox the wind generally freshens to a gale from S.E. to E., with run and a high barometer; as the wind veers to S. and S.W. the strength of the gale declines; they last firom one to three days. The following is a general synoptical table of the wind and weather, and of the range of meteorological instruments, for the different months :— - January— Light Easterly winds and calms ; stormy if the wmd shifts to S.W. Fehmaiy— Winds between N.E. to S.E. prevail ; at times from K.W. to S.W. by the W., and then bringing heavy rain. March— S.E. and S. winds; the latter bring rain. April and May— Winds between K.W. and S.W. are predominant, and they often blow strong. June, July, and August— Westerly winds prevail, variable between N.N.W. and S.S.W.; in general moderate, and with fine weather. Winds firom S. and E. in August are accompanied with cloudy weather and rain. September— The prevalent winds are from W.N.W. to W.S.W, but occasionally from the eastward. October— Easterly winds, variable between N.E. and S.E. November— The prevailing winds are S.S.E., veering to S. and S.S.W. occa- noBally. Beeember— B.N.E. to S.S.K are the usual winds,. which, however,, at times veer to & and 8.S.W, ^.^.^.^^^ ^^ L:iOOgle 114 WINDS.~NEW ZEALAITD. ^ H I I I jeOiOAiHiHG^C^I 04 lO I I I kO l> X 10 I s ^^Q«OCOiHQ09» I I 3 S s sj ss s ^ ;3 I QD QQ H ^ ^ ^. ^. ^ » ^ Q ii I !? a rH O rH 09 ^ kO !>• t« CO »0 lO kO f CD 2 K 8 S 8 ^ s ^ ss ;{ 9 & & od o> o5 95 i> s s & & M » o I I § i i ? s s O GQ 09 00 ^ Q kO ^ 9 S i; ^ 04 ^ s k k ^ ^ ? CQ ^ OQ S CO i J I 4- ll Ha H3 • «0 I J -S J •^ i2 I NEW ZEALAND. 101. The following paper, by Captain Bybok Dbuby, B.N., is the result of obser- vations continued over four years, and made on board H.M.S. Fandora, combined with valuable contemporaneous observations on shore :*- " It is a matter of interest to trace the ext(nit of the almost rotatory storm, the N.E. wind, which oommenoes at R, and frequently, after suddenly changing from N«E. to JSM, and S.W., ends within a few points of .where it commenced. Digitized by ^ ^^^•ob- WINDS.— NEW ZEALAND. 115 iffnUa at sea than in the viomity of the land; where it is an expanded rotary gale, iod therefore has not the dire effects of a hnirioane. Its prognostics are so certain, aad oommence so gradnally, that the anticipated changes can be made subservient to dbetinif a passage. " This N.E. gale appears to be common to the southern regions from Bass Strait flSBtward to Tierra del Fuego. Descriptions of it at the latter place do not materially diifer firom what is obserred here, except that here they are more decided in the spring ud summer than in the winter. "Before discossing the local winds of these islands, we may describe the ordinary vinds off the coast, extending to Australia and Tasmaaiai beyond those latitudes where periodical Monsoons exist. ''The barometer is a certain indicator of changes in these latitudes; noYessel should be without it ; bat it requires study, for the greater heigikt presages N.E. gales, and its changes require spedal notice in reference to the weather. In the latitude of Auckland we have known it to range from 80'66 to 28*80 during the re- Tolution of a gale, which began at N J). " The ordinary wind of these seas is Westerly nearly the whole year round. " It may be generally assumed that the barometer falls to N. and N.W. winds; that these are the rainy quarters ; and that although the wind becomes stronger at first as it draws to S.W., the weather will dear up. " The steadiest wind is about W.S.W. The changes are almost invariably with the BUD, or contrary to the moYements of the hands of a watch.* South winds bring odd dear weather, and raise the barometer high. &JE, winds are uncommon, but when they do set in, usually in April, Hay, end June, they last several days ; with edd, raw weather, and the barometer about 80 inches. The N.E. wind occurs about ODoe a month in spring and summer, but less regularly in winter ; it is preceded by doudiesa serenity and calms ; the barometer from 80*80 to 80*60. A light breeae firom the eastward, drawing to N.E., is gradually accompanied by a dull sky ; the barometer begins to fall and the breeze freshens briskly. The sky becomes overcast, and usually in twelve homrs it begins to rain. From that time to thirty-six or foriy- eight bonis the wind continually increases : in a heavy squall it will suddenly shift to the N.W., from which quarter it blows still stronger for from six to eighteen honrs, latterly accompanied by heavy rain or hail : lightning is frequently seen in the 8.E. quarter. The barometer is at its lowest a little before there is another (some- times) sudden change to tlie B.W., from which quarter it begins to clear, while the glass rises rapidly, although the squalls are at first very violent. The wind some- tones remains in this quarter, sometimes veers round as far as S.S.E. ; but if it ahodd remain at W.S.W., fresh steady breezes and fine weather will last for several days. We have traced the diameter of one of these rotary gales to 960 miles.f They seldom last more than three days, before the weather becomes fine. *'We now come to the subject more spedfioally connected with New Zealand, baring thus stated a few generalities, and we find it necessary to divide the group Vto dg^t portions to distinguish all the local winds. "The formation of these islands, their comparative breadth at the parallel of the * CoBlrvy to thoae of the northern homisphere, tbongb sUll with the aun, which here enlffli* •ataiiiittieH. tTheHJLaalsisapfogrefldveeycbne, nolamareljlooalwliul* • ,^ j J 2 Digitized by VjOOQLC IIG WINDS.— NEW ZEALAND. East Cape, with the narrow strip of land to the northward; the Strait, the high snow-capped mountains, and extensive plains and forest tracts, must produce varieties of currents of air ; and we find frequent changes, though of short duration. But placed as these islands are, apart from any deserts or icy r^ons, the ordinary Westerly current, unless blowing with unusual force, becomes neutralized by the varied configurations of the country's surfiice ; and for this reason we purpose to di?ide the islands into eight atmospheric districts, namely — " 1st — From the North Cape to Mercury Bay on the east coast, and to Kawhia on the west. '< 2nd.— From Mercury Bay to the East Cape. " 3rd.— From the East Cape to Cook Strait. " 4th.— From Kawhia to Cape Farewell. " 5th.-Cook Strait. » eth.-— From Cape Campbell to Cape Saunders. " 7th. — ^From Cape Saunders to Foveaux Strait " 8th.— The West Coast of the Middle Island. " It has been frequently stated that New Zeaknd is a moist climate as compared to England, but if meteorological data during a number of years be taken as the basis of comparison, it will be found such is not the case. Persons residing in New Zealand during 1861-62 might conclude 'there was an excess of moisture; but had a person lived in the country in 1863-64 alone he would come to an opposite conclusion, for the drought then was a source of considerable uneasiness. " Farmers do not complain there of excessive mobture. Indeed, at Auckland no more falls than is required to produce its prolific vegetation, although perhaps too frequent to bring grapes and some other fruits to perfection which thrive in other parts of the colony. " We believe that more rain falls in the West of England and on the west coast of Scotland and Ireland than in any part of New Zealand. " The comparative absence of great intensity of electricity may modify the falls of rain. It is seldom such floods are heard of as accompany the thunderstorms of other regions. The greatest quantity of rain known to fall in twenty-four hours at Auckland within the three last years was less than at Sydney Heads. We have not been able to trace any accident occurring from lightning. " Fogs are rare, except in the extreme South. In the Bay of Islands and Hokianga there is a morning fog occasbnally in September, October, and November, which generally dears up at 10 a-u., and is followed by a fine day. In the Bay of Plenty we experienced a fog of three days' duration in the month of October, but it was considered quite extraordinary, and they have been experienced in the months of June and July in Hauraki Gulf, but seldom throughout the day. "Fbok thb Nobth Coast of Nbw Zbalikd to Mbbcubt Bat ok the East Coast, and Kafia (ob Kawhia) ok the West.— In this division the or- dinary wind throughout the year is from N.W. to S.W.on the west coast, and from W.S.W. it lasts longest. In summer the N.W. and S.W. are both fine. In winter the N.W. wind is prevalent, accompanied by rain. When the wind veers S. of W.S.W., it blows from the westward off the shore on the east coast, otherwise the wind takes a direction down the coast. There is a sea bteea^ into Auckland and othor harbours on the east coast in 8amm0rweath«r^. . ^^^.^ Digitized by VjOOQ Lc WINDS.— NEW ZEALAND. 117 "N.N.W. winds are acoompauied by rain. The N.B. wind, already described, generally ends in a serere gale. S.E. wind is rare, but when it comes lasts several days, with cold, raw weather, sometimes showery.* In winter there are sometimes Tery sadden changes on the east coast after short intervals of calm. Cloudless serenity in winter is usually followed by a wet day ; and a lunar halo is a sure prognostic of rain. The narrow interval between the seas on the west and east coasts and the ex- tensive forests of Mannkau conduce to moisture prevailing in Auckland to a greater extent than at the Bay of Islands. It is also for this reason Auckland is milder in winter, frost being uncommon ; whereas at the Bay, though a lower latitude, ice may be found an inch thick occasionally. "In the harbours on the west coast the ordinary breezes are from S.W., with land winds in summer, which, however, are very light and partial. In Manukan the W. winds are peculiarly fresh, the contour of the coast here forming the apex of an obtnae angle. The harbours on the east coast draw the sea breeze into their various channels in summer. In winter the weather is very variable. « Daring our experience the maximum temperature in the shade at Auckland in summer was 79°; minimum in winter, 40^; mean in summer, 67°; mean in winter, 52°. And the mean annual fall of rain was 43 inches. ** Mbbcust Bay to East Cafe. — Between Mercury Bay and the East Cape the Bwnmer breezes are from the westward, dying away at night in and near the shore, but not in the bay. A N.E. gale may be expected once a month, prevailing from March to July. S.E. winds are common near the East Cape, sometimes lasting for several days, and often very strong, but seldom blowing beyond the Mercury Islands. There is also a very strong S.W. gale, which is dangerous in the roadsteads between Cape Runaway and the East Cape; it is preceded by rollers and unsteady flaws of wind. " The people in sight of White Island can foretell weather by the appearance of the •team from Whakeri : with W. winds the smoke is low, and more of it is seen. The S.E. wind, they say, smothers the steam. No doubt the density of the atmo- ^here tells on that vast body of vapour. "The climate of Mercury Bay may be considered fine, generaUy. " Fhom East Capb to Cook Strait.— €k>ing from East Cape to Cook Strait a very marked phenomenon frequently takes place on rounding the East Cape. The strong Westerly wind that drives across the bay can-ies its line a few miles eastward of the cape, but southward of this the breeze is N.E. Sometimes a vessel may bo becalmed for hours between two strong breezes from W. and N.E. The configuration of the coast at once accounts for this : — ^The W. wind meets with little obstacle in mossing the narrow and comparatively low land north of the ranges forming the ^athem boundaries of the Bay of Plenty; at the East Cape it meets the lofty ^Dsigi, and the breadth of the country now being considerable^ the rarefied air m one point of the horizon, and eonverglng at the point of the horlson diametrically opposite. The observance of these points of convergence greatly fHoiUtatcs the knowledge of the direction. The observa- tions that I made with M. Bravais, on the Faulhom, prove, agreeably to M. Kaemtz* observa- tions, that the predominant direction is that of the S.W. to N.E. The meteorological registers of the members of the Commission of the North, who wintered in Lapland, give a slightly different direction merely: from W. by S. to £. by N. Moreover, the phenomenon occurs more fre- quently there than in the temperate zones. At the Equator, IIuaiBOLDT found that tho parallel bands were generally directed fhrni N. to S. The cause, which thus arranges the great axes of these clouds, according to parallel lines, is still unknown. Forster was the first who made the very Just remark that these clouds almost always travel along a parallel to their great axis, which greatly contribntet to render them apparently motionless. H. Bravais, withovt being aware of Forstbh's observations, arrived at the same conclnsion. Many meteorologists (Howard, Forster, Pelticr) seem to believe that the cirrt serve as condooton between two distant fbd of electricity of opposite names, the fluids of which tend to combine, and that the flexibility of the conducting clouds terminates in tho rectilinear form, which is necessitated by the condition of the shortest path tnm one focus to the other.— Mabtiks. Digitized by Google T'^.^iT^ 4. Cirro-cumulus. .i. (Vrro sf/-a/ju\ 6. Cumulo-strajUjbs. Qumdonios. Digitized by Google Digitized by Google CLOUDS AND THEIR VARIETIES. 131 These clonds freqnently resemble carded cotton, nnd pass into the state of e?>w- eumulus and cirro'Stratui, The white colour by which they are characterized does not always permit their structure to be recognised, or their transformations to be followed; but by meana of the mirrors of blackened glass, which landscape painters use, this may be managed with the greatest facility. The eye is not dazzled, and the clond reflected in the glass may be studied at leisure. The cirri are the most elevated clouds ; it is difficult to determine their height. Measures made at Halle have often led me to assign to them a height of four miles. Travellers who have passed over high mountains are unanimous in asserting that, from the highest summits their appearance is the same. During a stay of eleven weeks within sight of Finsteraarhoni, the elevation of which is 13,800 feet, I never observed any cirri below the summit of that mountain. It is among the eirri that halos and parhelia are formed ; and on studying these clouds by means of the blackened mirror, it is a rare case not to find in them traces of halos. These phenomena being due to the refraction of light in frozen particles, we may conclude that the eirri are themselves composed of flakes of snow floating at a great height in the atmosphere. Observations continued for ten years have convinced me of the truth of this assertion; and I know of no observation tending to prove that these clouds are composed of vesicles of water. We may feel astonished, no doubt, that in summer, when the temperature frequently attains 77° Fahr., the clouds which float above our heads are composed of ice ; but the doubt* will disappear when we reflect on the decrease of temperature with height. During one of those hot days, when rain falls on the plains, this rain is snow on the summits of the Alps. The appearance of cirri often precedes a change of weather. In summer they announoe rain; in winter frost or thaw. Even when the vanes are turned towards the N. these clouds are oiten carried along by S. or by S.W. winds ; and the latter are soon felt also at the surface of the earth. We can admit that these clouds are brought by the S. winds, which determine the fall of the barometer, and the vapours of which are precipitated in the form of rain. Such at least is Dove's theory : it justifies the denomination under which the Swiss peasants have designated this class of clouds. When the S.W. wind prevails, and extends to the lower regions of the atmosphere, the cirri also become more and more dense, because the air is moister. They then pose into the condition of cirro-strati, which first appear under the form of a mass like carded cotton, the filaments of which are closely interlaced, and they gradually take a greyish tint ; at the same time, the cloud seems to get lower, and vesicular vapour is formed, which fails not to be precipitated in the form of rain. The same meteorological circumstances sometimes determine the formation of light cirro-cumuli, which are entirely composed of vesicular vapour. They do not weaken the light of the sun, for it passes through them ; and Humboldt has often been able to see through these clouds stars of the fourth magnitude, and even to recognise the spots on the moon. When they pass before the sun or the moon, these bodies are surrounded with an admirable corona. The cirro-cumuli foretell heat : it seems that the hot S. winds, which prevail in the lower regions, do not convey a sufficient quantity of vapours to cover the sky entirely with clouds, and that they only act by their elevated temperature. While the clouds of which I have spoken are the produce of the S. wind, the k2 Digitized by L^OOgle 132 CLOIJ^S AND THEIR VARIETIES. cumuli owe their existence to ascending currents : their height varies greatly, but it is always less than that of the cirri. The cumuli are roost characteristic in the fine days of summer. When the sun rises in a clear sky, a few small clouds may be seen appearing about eight o'clock in the morning, which seem to Increase from witliin outward. They become thicker, and accumulate to form masses clearly circum- scribed and limited by curved lines, which cut each other in different directions. Tlieir number and size increase till the hour of greatest heat in the day ; they then diminish, and at sunset the sky is again perfectly serene ; in the morning they are very low, but they continue ascending until mid-day, when they again re-descend in the evening. I convinced myself of this by direct measurement, and observations made in the mountains. How often have I seen the cumuli under my feet in the morning ! The}' then rise : toward mid-day I was surrounded by clouds for about an hour, and the rest of the day I saw above my head clouds, which in the evening re-descended to the plain.* Cumuli are formed when ascending currents draw the vapours into the higher regions of the atmosphere, where the air, being very cold, is rapidly saturated. If the current increases in force, the vapours and clouds become more deviated ; but there they increase in greater ratio, on account of the reduction of temperature. Hence it happens that the sky, though fine in the morning, is entirely clouded at mid-day. When the ascending current relaxes towards evening, the clouds descend : as, on arriving into strata of air which are less heated, they again pass into the state of invisible vapour. According to Sausbure, the rounded form of clouds is due to this mode of formation. Indeed, when one liquid traverses another in virtue of the resistance of the ambient medium, and the mutual resistance of its parts, the former takes a cylindrical form with a circular section, or one composed of arcs of a circle. We may convince ourselves of this by letting a drop of milk or of ink fall into a glass of water. Thus the masses of ascending air are great columns, the shape of which is defined by the clouds. Add to this the little whirlwinds on the borders of the cloud.i, which are fi*equently observed in mountains, by means of the blackened mirror, and which also contribute to give to the whole rounded forms analogous to those of whirls of smoke escaping from a chimney. The cumuli do not always disappear toward evening; on the contrary, they often become more numerous, their borders are less brilliant, their tint deeper, and they pass to the state of cumulo^stratus, especially if a stratum of cirrus exists below them. We may then expect rains or storms, for in the higher and the mean regions the air is near the. point of saturation. The S. wind and the ascending currents give rise to changes of temperature which determine the precipitation of aqueous vapour in the form of rain. « There exists a great number of measurements of the heights of clouds. Kaemtz (** Lehrbuch dcr Meteorologie,*' t. i., p. 885) relates several which nre due 1o Riccioli, Bocguf.r, Hum- boldt, Lavbert, Crosthvaite* find to himself. The extremes are 440 and 7000 yards. During the cruise of the Vetiut, 1000 and 1500 yards were found on the Atlantic and the South Sea as the extreme terms. M. I'EYTiEB, staff-officer, communicated to the Institut, January Snd, 1887, forly-eight measures of the height of clouds, made in 1826, during the triangulatlon that he executed in the Tyrenees with M. HosSASD. The extremes for the lower plane of clouds were COO and 2700 yards ; for the upper plane. 1000 and 8800. They obtained these different determinations by aid of the heights previously measured, of the peaks to ^vhich the clouds were tangents by their superior or inferior surfaces. On September 29th the two observers were so placed as to see at the same moment the two opposite surfkces of a cloud. Its thickness was 500 yards. Next day it was 900. — Mabtins. , ^^^i^ Digitized by VjOOQIC CLOUDS AND THEIR VARIETIES. 133 The cumuU that are heaped up on the horizon in the line days of Bummer are those which are most fertile for plays of the iraugination. Who has not fancied that he reoogniees in the changing forms of these clouds men, animals, trees, and mountains? They famish comparisons to the poets; and Ossian has borrowed from them his most beautiful images. The popular traditions of mountainous countries are full of strange eyents, in which these clouds play a prominent part. As they are often of the same height, an appearance results which I should mention. When I was living at the Faulhom, the sky was frequently clear above my head ; but a little above the horizon, a belt of clouds, the width of which did not exceed doable or treble that of the moon, extended like a pearl necklace along the West Alps, from France to the Tyrol. My station, at 8800 feet above the sea, was a little more elevated than the clouds, and their projection on the sky formed a narrow belt, although they were spread over a vast extent of the sky. From this projection, it follows that it is often very difficult to distinguish the cumulus from the cumulo* stratus. How frequently do we see cumuli spread over the sky ! The horizon appears charged with clouds; it seems that the heavens will in a shoH time be entirely covered with them ; and yet the sun continues to shine without intermission. A very simple reasoning proves that the eye has been deceived by a projection. Imagine a series of globular clouds of the same size, eqni-distant from each other : if the observer draws two lines from the station he occupies to the limits of the clouds, the interval between those which are at the zenith will be very great, bat it will be contracted in proportion as they approach the horizon, when it becomes entirely null. While the true cumuli are formed, and disappear during the night, another variety of these clouds if seen under very different circumstances. It is common to observe in the afternoon dense cloudy masses, rounded or extended,with borders bivlly defined, the number of which increases towards evening,until,daringthe night, thesky is completely overcast. The next day it is still overcast, but, some hours after sunrise, all disap- pears ; the true cumuli then occupy the sky, where they float at a more considerable he^fat. I have determined this by direct measurements. At evening, clouds of the f«Hrmcr class again replace the true cumuli. These clouds are composed of very dense vesicnlar vapour, like the cumulus and the cumuh-stratus. They differ in their dejiendenoe on the hours of the day ; they have also an analogy with the stratus^ on account of their extent, and are distinguished from them by their greater height. However, they approach nearer to them than to the cumulus y and I propose desig- nating them under the name of sirato-cumulus. During winter this kind of cloud frequently covers the whole sky for weeks together; their presence is probably due to the decrease of temperature, reckoning from the ground, being more rapid than usual. But as the sun rises, its rays dissolve the clouds, the vapours ascend, and cumuli are formed. This influence of the sun on the clouds gives rise to atmospheric variations, which are well known to husbandmen. In the morning the sky is clouded, and it rains abundantly ; but towards nine o'clock the clouds separate, the sun shines through, and the weather is fine for the rest of the day. At other times, during the morning, the sky is clear, but the air moist. The clouds soon appear; toward mid-day the sky is covered, the rain falls, but it ceases towards evening. In the former case, they were sirato-cumulus; in the latter, cumulo-stratus. The former are dissipated by the rays of the sun, the latter are formed under their influence. If the temperatuj^ Digitized by VjOOQIC 13 Ji WIND AND WEATHEIl SYMBOLS. and hygrometric conditions of the air at two or three thousand yards above the earth were as well known as at its surface^ these apparent anomalies which astonish us might be more easily explained. 111. Beanlbrt** tfotatloii of ^Hnad and "Weattier.— The following method, first devised by the late Hydrographer to the Admiralty, Sib FBiJ^cis Bejlufobt, is generally used by seamen to indicate the State of Weather, and the Force of Wind at Sea; also in lighthouses, and at many stations on land :— w Blue Sky also 1 Clouds (detached) 2 Drizzling rain. Foggy 3 Gloomy. Hail . . • 4 Lightning. Misty (hazy) 5 Overcast (dull) (also g) ... 6 Passing showers. Squally. Bain Snow Thunder. Lightning .... Ugly (threatening) appeai'ance weather. Visibility. Objects at a distance unusually visible. Wet dew. Calm. 1 Steerage way. 2 Clean full— from 1 to 2 knoU. 3 Ditto 3 to 4 knots. 4 Ditto 5 to 6 knots. 5 With royals. 6 Topgallant sails over single reefs. 7 Two reefs in topsails. 8 Three reefs in topsails. 9 Close-reefed maintopsail and courses. 10 Close-reefed topsails and reefed fore- sail. 11 Storm staysails. 12 Hurricane. Fi-om 2 to 10 being lAipposed ** close- hauled." The above method is very general, and in practice it answers well — ^not only for seamen, but even for popular use on land, by estimating the force of whid, proix>r- tionally, between the extremes of its slightest motion and its utmost violence. Note. — ^A letter repeated augments its signification :— thus f f very foggy, rr heavy rain, rrr heavy and continuing rain. Sometimes a bar ( — ) or dot ( . ) is used for this purpose, as r heavy rain. Mr. Glaisher, of the Royal Observatory, Greenwich, considers the following nota- tion (0 to 6) of the wind preferable to the above, at least for land purposes, where there can be no definite reference to the power of the sails :— f 1-.3 Light . Scale of Wind:— 3—5 Moderate (Beaufort. . . 1-12^ corresponding to Land . . . . l-*6) 5—7 Fresh . 7—8 Strong . 8—10 Heavy . llO— 12 Violent . Digitiz edbyCj Google FOECE OF THE WIND. 135 Ta&lb saowiNa thi: Fobcs and YsLooiTr of tujb Wuis fbom Lioht Ama to Heavy Gales and Tempests. Velocity. Pressare in lbs. on Square Foot. Popular Descriptions. Feet per Miles per Second. Hour. 0-002 0-004 0005 1 1-47 1-56 0-68 1 1-06 /Gentle alra (unappreciable by gauge). 0-019 0028 0-032 0-043 3 8-67 3-9 4-5 2 2-5 2-66 3 Liglit airs (just appreciable by gauge) ; would fill the lightest sail of a yaohi. 0062 4-9 8-8 0-065 6-58 8-8 0071 5-87 4 0090 6-6 4-5 0100 0112 0130 0136 6-98 7-34 7-89 8-1 4-76 5 5-38 5-5 Light breezes; such as ■ would fill the lightest sails of a large ship. 0-162 8-8 6 0-228 10-4 7 0-260 11 7-6 0-291 11-8 8 \ 0-864 13-2 9 0-890 13-6 9-27 Moderate breezes, in which 0-452 0-521 14-7 15-8 10 10-77 ships cao carry all saiL 0-561 16-2 11 0-650 17-66 12 . 0-780 19-3 13 V 0-880 20 13-6 0-884 0-910 1-042 20-6 20-9 22 14 14-25 15 ' sails and royals. 1170 23-6 16 1-250 24-2 16-6 . 1-302 25 17 Fresh winds; reefs. 1-430 26-2 17-8 1-470 26-5 18 1-563 1-630 1-790 27-89 28 29-35 18-67 19 20 Strong winds; treble-reefed topsails. 1-820 2-084 2-600 29-55 81-15 35-32 20-14 21-47 24 Gales; close-reefed topsails and reefed courses. 8126 38-73 26-40 3-647 41-83 28-62 Strong gales; close- reefed 4168 44-83 80-56 4-689 47-44 32-34 5-200 50 34 7-800 61-18 41 ■) 10-400 70-72 48-2 } Heavy gales and storms. 13-000 79-07 53-91 ) 15-600 86-61 59 20-800 26000 81-200 100 111-74 122-62 68-18 7618 83-6 fVery heavy gales; great f storms; tempests. 3a--i0O 13218 90-12 Tornadoes; cyclones; hur- 41'60O 141-30 90-84 ricanes. ^^2000 C2-400 157-98 173-00 107-7 120 Digitized by L^OOgle 136 MOON'S INFLUENCE ON WEATHER. lis. The Moon's ZnHnonoe on tlie IRToattier. — Sailing directions, as well as popular belief, very commonly attribute changes of weather to the moon's influence. As the sabject has been critically tested it may not be amiss to place the results before the seaman. ToALDO made a series of observations, continued for forty-fire years, at Padua, in which changes of weather were recorded in juxta-position with lunar phases : with- out detailing the particulars, it will be sufficient to state at once the results. He found that for every seven new moons the weather changed at six, and was settled only at one ; for every mfull moons, the weather changed at five, and was settled at one ; for every three epochs of the quarters, there were two changes of weather. He also examined the state of the weather in reference to the moon's distance from the earth, which is subject to some variation. The position of the moon when most distant from the earth is called apogee, aud her position when nearest is called perigee. He found that of every six passages of the moon through perigee there were five changes of weather ; and of every five through apogee there were four changes of weather. If these results would bear the test of rigid examination, they would be decisive in favour of the popular notion of the lunar influence. But let us see in what manner Toaldo conducts his inquiry. He was himself an avowed believer in the lunar influence, not merely upon the atmosphere, but even on the state of organized matter. In his memoir on the subject he has not stated what atmospherical changes he has taken as changes oj weather ; and it is not unfuir to presume that the bias of his mind would lead him to class the slightest vicissitudes under this head. But further, Toaldo, in recording the changes of weather coinciding with the epochs of the phases, did not confine him- self to changes which took place upon the paHicular day of the {ihase. On the pretext that time must be allowed for the physical cause to produce its effect, he took the results of several days. At the new and full moon he included in his enu- meration all changes which took place two or three days before or two or three days after the day of new or full moon ; while for the quarters he only included the day preceding and the day following the phases ; and for epochs not coincident with the lunar phases, he only counted the changes of weather which took place on the par- ticular day in question. It appears, then, that for the changes coinciding with a new and full moon, as recorded by Toaldo, may be taken any changes occurring within the space of from four to six days ; also, for the changes recorded at the quarters are to be understood those which occurred within the space of three days ; and for those not coinciding with the phases may be taken the changes which occurred on a single day. It will not require much sagacity to perceive that the results of such an inquiry must have been just what Toaldo found them to be ; and that, if instead of taking the epochs of the lunar phases, he had taken any other periods whatsoever, and tried them by the same test, he would have arrived at the same results. Five days at the new and full moon would include a third of the entire lunar month ; and thus a third of all the changes of weather which occurred in that period were ascribed by Toaldo to the lunar influence. Fbofessob Pilgbik has also examined a series of observations on the lunar phages as connected with the changes of weather, made at Vienna, and continued from 1763 to 1787— a period of twenty-five years — and he has found that, of every hundred Digitized by LjOOQIC MOON'S INFLUENCE ON WEATHER. 137 ( of the phases, the proportion of the occorrence of changes to that of the settled state of the weafcher was as follows :— Changes. Settled Weather. New moon 58 42 Pull moon 63 37 Quarter 63 37 Perigee 72 28 Apogee 64 36 New moon at perigee 80 20 New moon at apogee 64 36 Full moon at perigee 81 19 Full moon at apogee .... 68 32 Admitting these results, it would follow, contrai'y to popular belief and to the observations of Toaldo, that the new moon is the least active of the phases ; and that the full moon and quarters are equally active ; also that the influence oi perigee, or the Dearest position of the moon, is greater than that of any of the phases ; while the influence of apogee, or its greatest distance, is equal to that of the quarters and full moon, and greater than that of the new moon. But Pilgbim's calculations are liable to objections similar to those which vitiate the observations of Toaldo; for he included in his enumerations of changes cor- responding to the phases, changes which occurred the days .'preceding and following the phases : this being the case, the only wonder is that the proportion which he found especially for the new moon, is not more favourable to his hypothesis. But independently of this, Pilgbim's results are not entitled to any confidence: they not only bear internal evidence of inaccuracy, but the observations were not continued for a sufficient length of time to give a safe and certain conclusion. In the years 1774 and 1775 Db. Hobsley directed his attention to the question, and published two papers in the Philosophical Transaciums, with a view to dispel the popular prejudice on the subject of lunar influences. IIobslet's observatious, however, were confined to so short a period of time (two years), that they could not be expected to afford any satisfactory results. He found that in the year 1774 there were only two changes of weather which corresponded with tlie new moon, and none with the full moon; and that in the year 1775 there were only four changes which corresponded with the new moon, and three with the full moon. Examining the question of lunar influences in a more general point of view, to see whether observation has supplied any ground for the supposition of any relation whatever of periodicity between the moon and the weather, it appears that M. ScHcrxBLBB made a series of observations, with considerable care, and published the following results, which, shortly after, were re-examined by M. Abaoo. Schubblbb's calculations were founded on meteorological observations made at Munich, Stutgard, and Augsburg, for 28 years.* His object was to ascei-tain whether any correspondence existed between the lunar phases and the quantity of rain which fell in different pfirts of the month. He defined a rainy day to be one in which a fall of rain or snow was recorded in the meteorological journals, provided it affected the rain-gauge to an extent exceeding the six-hundredth part of an inch. • At Hmiidi, iVom 1781 to 1788 inelosive; at Stutgard, fh>m 1809 to 1812 inclusive; and at Aupburg, from 1813 to 1828 inclusive. ^.^.^.^^^ ^^ LriOOglC 188 MOON'S INFLUENCE ON WEATHER, So far as his observations may be relied upon, it would follow, that in the places where they were made, out of 10,000 rainy days the following are the number of those days which would happen at the different lunar phases : — New moon 306 First octant 300 Fii-st quarter 325 Second octant 311 Full moon 337 Third octant 313 Last quarter 284 Fourth octant 290 Now, as there are about 29 jr days in the lunar month, if we suppose the fall of rain to bo distributed equally through every part of the month, the total number of these 10,000 days which should happen on tlie eight days of the phases, would be found by simple proportion, since it would bear to 10,000 the same proportion that 8 bears to 29^: — the number would therefore be 27*12. Whereas, it appears from the above Table, that the actual number which fell upon these days was 52*02; and thus less than the proportional amount occurred upon them. PiLOBiu had already, in 1788, attempted to ascertain the influence of the lunar phases on the fall of rain ; and ho found that in every hundred cases there were 29 of rain on the full moon, 26 at the new moon, and 25 at the quarters. The preceding observations refer only to the number of wet days. Schuebleb, however, also directed his inquiries to the influence of the lunar phases on the quantity/ of rain and on the clearness of the atmosphere. From observations con- tinued for sixteen years at Augsburg, including 199 lunations, he obtained the following results :— * Number of Number of Quantity of rain Epochs. clear days in overcast days in in 16 yeara, 16 3'eai-s. 16 years. in inches. New Moon . • . 81 61 26-651 First quarter • . Second octant . , 38 57 24-597 25 65 26-728 Full Moon . . . 26 61 24-686 Last quarter . . . 41 53 19-536 In this Table, by a clear day, is meant such days as exhibit a cloudless sky at seven in the morning, and at two and nine o'clock in the afternoon ; those that were not clear at these hours were counted as cloudy days. These results ai*e in accordance with the former. It appears that the number of clear days is more frequent in the last quarter, which is an epoch at which, by the former method of inquiry, the number of rain}' days was least ; also the number of cloudy days is greatest at the second octant, which is a period at which the number of rainy days is found to bo greatest ; the depth of rain cilso agrees with this, being the greatest about tlie second octant, and least at the last quarter. ScnUEBLEB extended his inquiries to the in- fluence of the moon's distance on rain ; and he found thut, on examining 371 pas- sages of the moon through the positions of her extreme limits.^of.d^^^jyri^g'ing MOON'S INFLUENCE ON WEATHEB. 139 tke seven days nearest to perigee it rained 1169 times ; and daring the seven days nearest apogee it rained 1096 times. Thus, cateris paribus , the nearer the moon to the earthy the greater would be the chances for rain. The latest theory relating to the influence of the moon on the quantity of rain is that of M. Mathibtt, as announced in his work *' Be la PrSdicHon du Temps" M. MathieVj though disbelieving in lunar influence, entertained the idea that all the aqueous meteors with which our atmosphere is visited or affected obey laws as fixed and immutable as those which regulate the movements of the planets. With the view, therefore, of ascertaining these laws, he commenced an investigation which resulted in the admission that what he had previously considered mere popular pre- judice is perfectly philosophical. He became convinced that whilst the sun plays the principal part in raising vapours, it is the moon that determines their precipitation and distribution ; and further, that this is eflected by the agency of atmospheric tides and the changes of the wind consequent thereon. Avoiding the methods usually adopted, which he considers necessarily produce negative results, M. Mathieu was led to examine the relation which exists between the moon's phases and the four cardinal positions of the sun, viz., whether the changes occur whilst that luminary is on the upper or lower meridian, and whether near the rising or setting. He then, it appears, extracted, from the meteorological register kept by Saussuse at Geneva (from 1796 to 1856), the observations of rain tar the several days of the lunation, and arranged them in categories according to the time of the day and season of the year when the change occurred. The diJOference in the quantity of rainfall thus elicited is very considerable ; and though the number of observations is not large, it should be remembered that they are spread over an extended series of yean; and the results, according to M. Mathieu, appear to be lemarkably uniform. For example, in the case of the new moon in the months of September, October, November, and December, if that phase occurred between the hours of 8 a.k. and 9.30 A.H., the amount of rain greatly exceeded the quantity registered when the new moon arrived between 7 A.H. and 8 A.u. During sixty years there were seventeen instances of its occurrence between 8 and 9.30 A.1I. ; and fifleen instances between 7 and 8 A.K. The 17 instances gave 532 millimetres rain. The 15 instances gave 266 mm. rain. )L Hathieit, after giving other examples at new moon, passes on to the fii*st quarter, which he finds of the four phases is the one " which gives or transmits the most rain." Two Tables are given of the amount of rain which was registered, in June, July, and August, in the 60 years, at first quarter. From these Tables it appears that the first quarters which arrived between 11.30 A.H. and 3 p.m. braught more rain than those which occurred between 10 f.u . and 1 A.H. There were twenty instances of the former, and twenty-three instances of the latter time of the change; The 20 instances gave 509 mm. rain. The 23 instances gave 336 mm. rain. In the case of the twenty-three instances which occurred bct(v^<^^(K|»^H. and 110 MOON'S INFLUENCE ON WEATHER. 1 A.M., nearly the whole rain-fall was registered in quarters where the phase arrived between ten and eleven o'clock p.m. Again, the first quarters which occurred in the months of July and August between 4 A.H. and 6.30 a.h. were found to bring more rain than those which arrived between 6 A..M. and 8 A.H. There were nine instances of the first hour of the change, and fifteen instances of the second. The 9 instances gave 301 mm. rain. The 15 instances gave 108 mm. rain. Encouraged by these results, and tempted by the numerous coincidences and indi- cations of system which have led many, from Toaldo downwards, to believe it possible to foretell the weather by the aid of our satellite, M. Mathibu enters into a full analysis, from which new combinations of hours and phai^es are obtained, by means of which he believes rain^ periods may be predicted. It is well to notice that M. Mathieu's theory deals strictly with aqueous meteors, and not with the weather of any particular day. M. Mathibu having appealed to the French Emperor on behalf of his theory, M. LsYEAiiiEB was directed to examine and report on its merits ; the following is the result of M. Leverbibb's investigation of liis theory of the lunar influence: — Following M. MATniEU over his own ground, that of figures, I shall perhaps not arrive at the same conclusions as he has done. However, he will have no reason to complBin that he has been condemned without a sufficiently serious examination. M. Mathieu bases his researches on the quantity of rain upon the meteorological observations commenced at Geneva on Jan. 1, 1796, by M. de Saussubb, and con- tinned without interruption from that time. He takes account of the quantity of water fallen and collected each day ; he groups the results according to the phases of the moon, and the hour at which it entered into this phase; and discui^sing what he calls the liorary influence of the moon upon a phase taken isolaiely, he finishes by setting forth this first rule :— " Septkmbeb, Octobbb, Novembkb, Dbcembeb. — ^The new moon that occurs between 8 and 9 a.m. presents more water than that which occurs between 7 and 8 A.M. " The first case occurred 17 times. The second „ 15 „ The seventeen former cases presented .... 532"""* of water. The fifteen latter „ „ .... 266 Mean of the former cases 31*5 „ „ „ latter „ 1711 „" Let us dwell upon this first rule. Doubtless the author will have placed at the head of his precepts the one that he would consider as the best established; and it is right that we should begin where he has himself begun. M. Mathibu does not give the different quantities of rain, of which he ofiera only the sum. This could not satisfy us. We conceive that the author had desired to be brief ; but he should at least have given a complete illustration of his mode of dis- cussion. In statistical researches, illusion is easy ; it requires a great amount of skill to avoid the errors that too frequently {vrise from an artificial grouping of the *^^^- Digitized by LriOOgle MOON'S INFLUENCE ON WEATHER. 141 Id order to fill up this blank, I have had recourse to the publications of the Obsenratoiy of Geneva, and have extracted the figures upon which M. Mathieu has laid his foundation. Following the plan laid down by the author,! have had regard to the day on which the new moon occuiTcd, and neglected that on which the first quarter occurred. I am not aware whether he took a precaution that I have taken. I reduced all the quantities of rain to a like duration of neven days. When the duration of the phase was only six days, I have added a sixth to the quantity of water measured; when the phase was of eight days, I have abstracted from it an eighth. However, this correc- tion has no influence over the general results. On tabulating the figures on which M. Mathieu based his theory, M. Leyebbieb comes to the conclusion that when the new moon occurs from 6 to 7 A.H., or from 9.30 to 11.30 A.M., the rain is at a mean of from 21 to 22 millimetres. From 21 to 22 millims. are also collected when the moon occurs between 7 and 8 A.U. Finally, when the new moon occurs from 8 to 9.30 A.]tf ., the mean quantity is still the same. We may therefore conclude that the assumed rule, given hy M. Mathieu for Geneva, has no Jbundation, The fact which caused M. Mathieu's illusion is palpable. It is the great quantity of rain (107 millims.), which fell at Geneva in 1840, during the first phase of the moon, which commenced on October 25th at 9.7 a.m. Suppress that year (1840), and nothing of the law remains. At this point, which for the fifteen other years, in which the moon occun-ed from 8.11 to 9.26 A.M., which is according to M. Mathieu the great period of rain, the mean amount, on the contrary, is not more than 18:^ millims., which is the smallest of all. This answer, extracted from the figures, may yet assume another form, under which it will strike every one. The mean quantity of rain in the lunar conditions under consideration, is 22 millims. Very well : in the seventeen years for which the new moon occurs between 8 and 9.30 a.m., and which according to M. Mathiett should be very rainy, there are eleven in which the rain is below the mean, and only six in which it is superior to this mean. Where then, we ask, is the law which is false more than half the time P I even think that, had M. Mathieu first considered the question under this point of view, he would have deduced a result diametrically contrary to the rule that he has given. Besides, it is perfectly well known that, when we desire to establish physical laws, we mast carefully guai'd ourselves against every combination of figures in which the result is exceptionally influenced by a solitary fact, as takes place in the case before us. The connexion of barometric oscillations with atmospheric disturbances is so obvious, that the inquiry as to a coi*respondenco between the lunar phases and the variations of the barometer would necessarily claim the attention of meteorologists, if any value were to be attached to lunar influence on the weather. M. Flaugebgues accordingly made a series of observations at Yiviers (in the department of ArdSche), in France, which was continued from 1808 to 1828, a period of twenty years, on the heights of the barometer in relation to the lunar phases : that the influence of the sun might be always the same, the observations were made at noon, and the heights Digitized by LjOOQIC 142 MOON'S INFLUENCE ON WEATHEli. of the barometer were reduced to what they wonld be at the temperature of melting ice. The following are the mean heights of the barometer, deduced from these observations :— New Moon 29*743 First octant 29761 First quarter 29*740 Second octant 29*716 Full moon 29*736 Third octant 29*751 Last quarter 29*772 Fourth ocUnt 29*744 According to these observations, the height of the barometer is least about four days before full moon, and greatest six or seven before new moon. These times ap- proximate to those at which the investigations of Schueblbe give the greatest and least quantity of rain ; and, since the fall of the barometer generally (but not always) indicates a tendency to rain, the results are so far in accordance. But, at the same time, it must be admitted that the variation of the barometer is in this case so minute that a sensible effect could hardly be expected from it ; still, though minute, it is quite distinct and decided. M. Flaugeroues also observed the mean height of the barometer when the moon was at her greatest and least distance from the earth, and found that at perigee it was 29*713, and at apogee 29*753. And thus, so far as this small difference can bo supposed to indicate anything, it would indicate a greater prevalence to rain at perigee than at apogee, which is in accordance with the observations of Schusbleb. Any theory of the moon's attraction applied to explain atmospheric tides similar to those of the ocean would lead to the conclusion that the height of the barometer observed at noon when the moon is in her quarters, would be less than its height at noon at new and full moon; observation, however, shows the very reverse as a matter of fact. Flaugebgues found the mean height of the barometer at quadra- tures 29*756, and at new and full moon 29*739, the height at quadratures being in excess to the amount of 0*017. This result was further confirmed by the observa- tions of BouvABD, at the Paris Observatory. Ho found the mean height of the barometer at the quarters 29*786, and at new and full moon 29*759, the excess at the quarters being 0*027. Abago also submitted to rigorous investigations a senes of barometric observa- tions made in relation to the lunar phases at the Paris Observatory, and continued for twelve years, lie found that the effect of the lunar attraction on the barometer at the epochs of the high and low atmospheric tides could not have exceeded the one-sixhundredth of an inch — a quantity such as could produce no conceivable effect upon the weather, and showing that it has no influence on the atmosphere analogous to that which produces the tides of the ocean. Captain Btbok Dbubt, R.N., in his observations on the meteorology of New Zealand, says, " We are not able to state that particular phases of tlio moon are coincidental with changes in the weather ; indeed, afler having kept a careful register every two hours, night and day, in these seas during four years, we could not recognise elemental changes corresponding with lunar phases." In connexion with these remarks may be introduced an extract -^,-- " 'igitized by HURRICANES OR CYCLONES. 143 Captain Fliiibbbs, who, during his six yeant' captivity in the Mauritius, never lost an opportunity of communicating the results of investigation. In his " Voyages/' voL ii., p. 444, after noticing the hurricanes that island is so liable to, he says — " An opinion commonly entertained in Mauritius, that hurricanes are little to be ^prehended except near the time of full moon, does not seem to be well founded." The so-called "Herschel's Weather Table" ia a fiction of the most absurd diaracter, and requires no comment ; it was never issued by the authority of either of the illustrious astronomers whose name it bears. So with regard to all other "predictions" a year or wore in advance. The periods of atmospheric distarbance are generally given— according to the phases of the moon and its position in apogee and perigee— for intervals of six or seven days, and are further stated to apply to all parts of the earth's surface ; this is a very safe way of stating the case ; for, as Humboldt said of earthquakes, " if we could obtain infor* mation regarding the daily condition of all the earth's surface, we should probably discover that it was almost always undergoing shocks at some point or another ;" so we may with tolerable certainty predict that a gale or considerable atmospheric disturbance is every day taking place at some part or another of so large a super- fidal area as 197 millions of square miles. The "forecasts" of Admieal Pitzeot are of a character totally distinct from these: they rely mainly on the indications of the barometer, thermometer, &c., together with other meteorological observations obtained from distant stations and forwarded to the central office, — these only profess to be valid for a brief interval in advance. CHAPTER VI. HURRICANES OR CYCLONES,— AND THK LAW OF STORMS. 119. BewolTiair Stornuy which partake of a twofold motion — one of rotation, as it were on an axis, and another o^ progrcsnon — and which, originating within the Tropica, generally invade the extra*tropical and temperate regions of the globe, havo already been briefly discussed in connexion with Dove's "Law of Gyration," pp. 8-12. They are known as Hueeicanes in the West Indies and South Indian Ocean, as Ctclokes in the North Indian Ocean, and as Ttphoonb in the China Sea ; they are also occasionally encountered in the Pacific Ocean. The names most familiar to seamen in connexion with the history and origin of hurricanes or cyclones, are Redfield, Reid, and Piddikotok ; but there are also others who, in their various works at different times, have done good service in elu- cidating what has been aptly termed the " Law of Stobmb" — these are Capper, Thov, Sib J. Hseschel, Espy, Melbrum, Pitssboy, and Birt. It is the result of the labours of these men which will, in the first place, be collected together, and the velUeeiahlUked lawe of rotatory gales as developed in both hemispheres brought briefly under the notice of the navigator ; after which the storms of the Indian Ocean and China Sea will receive some special remarks^those relating to the Southern Indian Ocean, derived chiefly from the observations of that able meteorokigiflt, Mb. 0. MBLDBt7H (of the Mauritius Observatory), who has done so mneh towards investigating the origin of hurricanes in the Monsoon region. Digitized by LjOOQIC 141 HURRICANES OR CYCLONES. lift. Veerlnff of tbe ^nnd-Vaae. — Reverting to what has already been said (pp. 7-12), it appears that when the storm is an equatorial one, whirlwinds are pro- duced in the Northern Hemisphere in a direction contrary to that in which the hands of a watch move, and in the Southern Hemisphere in the same direction as the hands of a watch ; and hence the following shiftmgs of the wind- vane :— 1. In the Northern Hemisphere — (a) When the vortex (or centre) of the storm passes to the westward of the place of observation, the rotation is n-* S., W., N., E., S., n-* with the sun. (h) When the vortex of the storm passes to the eastward of the place of obser- vation, the rotation is n-* S., E., N., W., S., »-> against the sun. 2. In the Southern Hemisphere — (a) If the vortex of the storm passes to the westward of the place of obser- vation, the rotation is »-> S., E., N., W., S., m-^ with the sun. (b) If the vortex of the storm passes to the eastward of the place of obser- vation, the rotation is m-^ S., W., N., E., S., »-» against the sun. Tlius, in both hemispheres, the passage of an equatorial whirlwind storm on the west aide of the place of observation produces normal revolutions {i,e., revolutions in accordance with the Law of Gyration) ; while on the other hand, its passage on tlie east side produces anomalous revolutions (i.e., contrary to the Law of Gyration). When the vortex of a whirlwind storm passes over the place of observation the vane may shift, after a brief interval of calm, from one direction to that immediately opposite to it. . Bearing in mind, therefore, the direction of the rotation of the wind in each hemisphere — viz., against watch hands in the Northern, but with watch hands in the Southern Hemisphere, — certain portions of the storm are characterized by certain hurricane winds; and dividing the storm-area at any given place by diameters drawn from the northern to the southern margin, and again from the east«m to the western margin, we find that, in the Northern Hemisphere, on the northern margin the wind will be easterly ; on the eastern margin, southerly; on the southern margin, westerly; and on the western margin, northerly. (See Plate XII., fig. 6.) The relation of the winds to the margins in the Southern Hemisphere will bo exactly the reverse of their relations in the Northern : thus, it is the southern margin of the storm, south of the Equator, that exhibits an easterly wind ; the western m&rgin Sk southerly ; the northern margin a westerly; and the eastern margin a northerly wind, (See Plate XII., fig. 6.) Hence each portion of the hurricane has its appropriate wind. lis. Tlie Bearing of tbe 8torm*s Centre-^From this fact there results a veiy simple Rule for determining the bearing of the Centre of the storm from the ship — viz., — Look to the wind*s eye and set its bearing by compass, the eighth point to the BIGHT thereof, when in the Nobthebn Hehisphebe, but to the left of the wind*s direction when in the Southebn Hehisphebe, will be the bearing of the storm* s centre. Thus, in the Nobthebn Hbkisphebe, from an eo^^^^ wind which characterizes the northern margin of the storm, its centre will bear south ; from a northerly Digitized by LjOOQIC HDBMCANE^NDS Pift.i na.it [Souilicm BeadMfhaseJ MJVEMKSTS OT METEOROUMHCAL INSTRUMENTS N. piaiT [Sowthaen Itmi tphcgc] N. storm: ^waves syiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiliii llUiH FiG.vr [Soudxera Hemixpliere] Digitized by Google Digitized by Google HURRICANES OR CYCLONES. 145 wind the centre will bear east; from a westerly wind it will bear north ; and from a southerly wind, west. But, in tbe SoTrrHBBN Hbuisfhbbe, from an easterly wind, the oentre of the storm bears north; from a southerly wind the centre bears east; from a westerly wind, south ; and from a northerly wind, west, ■ The above rale is perfectly dear and definite, but as it is especially important to avoid the oentre of the storm, the following Table shows at a glance its relative bearing in each hemisphere: — Ik the N. Hemisfhbbe. In thb S. Hemisfhbbb. The centre of the The centre of the If the Wind be Storm wiU bear Ifthe Windbe Storm will bear from the Ship 1 from the Ship North . . . East. North . . . West. N. byB. . . B.byS. E.S.E. N.byB. .. . N.KE. . . . W. by N. N.N.B. . . . W.N.W. N.E.byN.. . S.E. by E. N.E. byN. . N.W. by W. N.E S.E. N.B. . ; . . N.W. N.E.byE.. . S.E by S. N.E.byE.. . N.W. by N. E^.£. . . . S.S.E. E.N.E. . . . N.N.W. E. byN. . . S. by E, E.byN. . . N. by W. North. East . . . . South. East .... E.byS.. . . E.S.E. . • • S. byW. S.S.W. E.byS.. . . E.S.iS. . . . N. by E. N.N.E. S.E.WE.. . S.W. by S. S.E. by E. . . N.B. by N. S.E S.W. S.E. .... N.E. S.E. by S. . . S.W. by W. W.S.W. S.B.byS. . . N.E. by E. 8.S.E. . . . S.S.E. . . . E.N.E. S.byE.. . . W. by S. S.byE. . . E.byN. Soath . . . West. South . . . East. S.byW. . . S.S.W. . . . W. by N. S.byW. . . S.S.W. . . . E.bvS. E.S.E. W.N.W. S.W.byS. . . N.W. by W. S.W.byS.. . S.E. by E. 8.W N.W. S.W S.B. S.W.byW. . W.S.W. . . N.W.byN. N.N.W. S.W.byW. . S.E. by S. W.S.W. . . . S.S.E. W.byS. . . N.byW. North. W.byS. . . S. by E. We«t. . . . West. . . . South. W.byN. . . W.N.W. . . N.byB. N.N.E. W.byN. . . W.N.W. . . 8. by W. S.S.W. N.W.byW. . N.B. by N. N.W. by W. . S.W. by S. N.W. . . . N.E. N.W. . . . S.W. N.W.byN. . N.N.W.. . . N.E. by E. E.N.E. N.W.byN. . N.N.W.. . . S.W. by W. W.S.W. N.byW. . . E.byN. N.byW. . . W. by S. To those who prefer it, the rale just enunciated may be put in another form, not, however, equally clear to all — the centre of a revolving storm hears eight points from the dwreetion of the wind at the ship, reckoned with the apparent course of the Digitized by LjOOQIC 146 HUBRICANES OR CYCLONES. su»; and in thu view, one rule holds good for both hemUpheros, for though the bearings are precisely the reverse in the one hemisphere, of those in the other, BO is the apparent motion of the son also reverted, since in the southern hemisphere that luminary rises in the east, oulmitMUs in th^ norths and sets in the west. Thvm from the direction of the wind mkly, in a revolving storm, two very im- portant pointi are made known-*the exact position of the ship in the Horrioane or Cyclone, and the bearmg of the storm's centre from the ship. It6j Tbe Xotatory and ProgremiTe Mottona of Huirleaaea. — ^From the very nature of whirlwind storms the wind has a rotatory motion, as it were, on an axis. But the body of the storm has a progressive motion, generally from the Equator towards the Pole, at first with westing, but as the storm advances towards the Tropics it recurves, and then moves polarwise with eastmg. lie hurricane is impelled to the west in hw latitudes because the tendency of the two currents of air (polar and equatorial) is in those regions to the west- ward ahng the surface ; the equatorial current is much less so, and diminiBhing until actually altered to easterly, near the Tropic, after which its preserved equatorial rotatory force becomes more and more evident, while the loestwardly tendency of the polar ourrent dimimshes / as a consequence, liear the Tropic, the whirlwind ceases to move westward— it recurves^and then in its polarwise progression moves towards the eastward. (Admiral Fxtzboy.) Thus, in general terms, the progressive motion of the Hurricane in the Nobthbhk Hbuisfhebb is from B.E.-ward to N.W.- ward; and after recurving, from S.W.-ward to N.B.-ward. (Plate XIII., ^g, 1.) In the BouTHEBK HBUisPHEiE from N.E.-ward to S.W.-ward; and after recurving, from N.W.-ward to S.E.-ward. (Plate XIII., fig. 2.) The place of recurvature is very dangerous, for the hurricane-winds are deceptive, owing to the stoim being com- paratively stationary for a brief period. The area over which these rotatory storms have been known to expand— ^*.e., where the rotatory winds prevail'^varies from 30 or 40 to 1000 miles ; but while the diameter of the storm, so long as it is within the Tropics, expands very gradually, it suddenly inbreases in a Remarkable manner after recurving. The ratf at which a Hurricane travels onward also varies greatly not only in different parts of the globe, but even in the same locality and at the same season : in general, however, the progressive motion is greater after, rather than before, its recurvature. IL17. ITpon omnbininff tne Aotatory with tbe VrogrMsive Motlott, B6m« vert ▼alnaibla 9nlem may be d«duoed,— the path which the axis of rotation describes is not inappropriately termed the axis lifw, and this divides the cyclone into two semieirclei, — ^the right or starboard semicircle, and the left or port semi- circle ; there are consequently three divisions of a storm* each characterized by dif- ferent phenomena. In the jight hand semicircle, the hauling of the wind resulting from the paasage of a cyclonein the Northern Hemisphere is in the same direction as the apparent course of the sun ; but in the left hand semicircle it is reversed, being against the apparent course of the sun. On the axis line there is no change of wind until the centre has passed, when, after a brief interval of calm, the wind springs up with great fury from the opposite quarter. Thus, the direction of the wind at the ship gives her position in the storm as re* Digitized by LjOOQIC HURRICANE PATHS TIG. I. [NOITTHERN HEMISPMERC] PIG. It. [SOUTU€RN hemisphere] Digitized by Google Digitized by Google HUBMOANES OB CYCLONES. 147 fen»d to the points of the compaBs, and what is of the greatest importanoe^the bearing of the centre from her ; the hauling of the wind announces her position re- latively to the axis line of the storm, which, combined with her track tlirough the ejdone« will give the progressiye direction of the storm itself; if the wind be foond to increase in force without hauUng, the ship is on the axis line ; and if a calm occur, Bocoeeded by a terrific and violent wind from the opposite quarter, the ship has passed through the centre. From these remarks it will appear evident, that in manoeuvring a vessel when overtaken by a rotatory gale in thb Nobthbbn Hekisphebe, if she receive Uie wind on her ^or^ side, her head is directed (more or loss) towards th^ eenirs ; bat if she receive it on her starboard side» her head is turned y}*(>ii> tAe centre r and these facts indicate the means to be adopted to draw from the centre when lying-to ; —if, with the ship's head from the centre, she receives the wind on the starboard side, then in lying-to (or drawing from the centre) she must be trimmed on the star- board tack. Ih thb Southern Hemzsphbbb the reverse of this takes place;—- a vessel sailing out ^the gale receives the wind on hex port side, and she must therefore be trimmed on the j>or^ taeh XlMm Ob tiM UlM of the BMrom«t«r In a Borrioaao or Ojoloae.— It was long ago remarked by PiDDiKeTON, that " he who watches his barometer, watches his ship." This invaluable instrument, if well understood, invariably announces the approach of a revolving storm » — shows whether the vessel is plunging into the Tortex, or if she be receding from it ; — and hence, by carefully noticing its indications, the disastrous oonsequdnoos of a hurricane may, to a great extenti be avoided — ^for the laws of its osdliations are very distinctly marked. The barometer often stands unusually high before the commencement of a cyclone, and frequently (if not always) jast around the storm ; and oonoeiving the cyclone to be divided into two parts by a diameter at right-angles to its path, it may be noted that-* (a) The barometer BUvrsLjs falls daring the passage of the advancing semicircle of a revolving storm. (5) The barometer always rises during the passage of the receding semicircle of a revolving storm. In oases of manosuvring to take advantage of the hurricane winds and to keep Just within the verge of the storm^ the barometer is of signal benefit, — it should be kept as high as possible without losing the wind. In whatever position the ship may be, the rising of the mercury announoes that the first (or dangerous) half of the •torm has passed. The barometer is a faithful guide ; in the zone of the Trade-winds its ordinary variations are so small that any deviation from the normal height requires attention ; its fluctuations are larger beyond the Tropios, but the indications are scarcely less certain if used in conjunction with the thermometer and hygrometer,*— hence, more watchfulness is required on the part of the navigator, and it is of the utmost im- portance to have such a knowledge of the Law of Storms, of Storm Instruments. and of the Signs of the Weather, as to be able to detect the presence of a hurricane (or cycbne), when as yet sky and sea betoken but little of that wild fury during the l^ight of which it is so difficult to guide the vessel in safety : one grrOat advantage j^ 2 Digitized byVjOOQlC 148 HURRICANES OR CYCLONES. of such knowledge is a qaick apprehension of the indications which forewarn to make all snug in time, 119. Metaoroloffioal Signs precedinsr a SCurrieane. — ^The meteorological signs indicating the approach of a hurricane or cyclone have heen collected from various sources hy Mr. Bibt,* and are enumerated and classed according as the phenomena may he presented to the external sensations of feeling, sight, or hearing. Meteorological signs recognised by the feelings— 1. A sultry, oppi'essive state of the atmosphere. 2. A calm. Meteorological signs recognised by the eye— 3. A remarkably clear state of the atmosphere, so that the stars may be seen to rise and set with nearly the same distinctness as the sun and moon. 4. A peculiar white appearance in the zenith, more or less of a circular form. 5. A remarkably red or fiery appearance of the sky. This is not unfrequently of such intensity as to tinge all the surrounding objects with a deep crimson ; and when this is obserred, there can be no question that the violent portion of the cyclone is not far from the vessel. When this red light is seen at night, the impression on the seaman's mind is, that " day has broken before its time." 6. A peculiar colouring of the clouds, more especially of an olive green. This is generally the precursor of a most violent and terrific hurricane. 7. A thick, hazy appearance in that quarter of the horizon in which the cyclone is raging. 8. A remarkable and peculiar appearance of the heavenly bodies. When shining through a haze, they are said to shine with a pale, sickly light, and are not unfrequently surrounded by rings of light, or halos. Some observers describe the stars as "looking big with burrs about them." Others speak of their dancing, and, generally, they have been noticed as being remarkably bright and twinkling. 9. The sun on some occasions has exhibited a blue appearance, and white objects have been seen of a decided light-blue colour. The sun has also been observed of a pale and somewhat similar appearance to that of the full moon. 10. A dense, heavy bank of cloud in the direction of the hurricane. 11. A peculiar appalling appearance in this bank, more particularly as if it were a solid wall drawing down upon and closing around the ship. 12. A darting forward of portions of this bank, as if torn into rags and shreds by some violent force, and driven before, not borne by, the wind. When this indication is distinctly recognised, a run of about two hours towarde the centre will involve the vessel in a destructive hurricane. 13. A peculiar motion exhibited by small bodies, as branches of trees, when • "Handbook of the Law of Stonns; being a Digest of the Principal Facts of SerolTing Storms.*' BjW. B. Birt 185S. . r^r^^ir^ Digitized by VjOOQIc HURRICANES OR CYCLONES. 149 agitated by the wind, consisting of a sort of whirling, not a bending for^ ward, as tfhent by a stream of air, 14. Lightning of a remarkably columnar character, shooting up in stalks from the horizon, with a dull glare; also like flashes from a gun, and sparks from a flint and steel. Meteorological signs recognised by the ear — 15. A distant roar (probably of the hurricane itselOi as of wind rushing through a hollow vault. 16. A peculiar moaning of the wind, indicative of the close proximity of the violent portion of the hurricane. The meteorological phenomena accompanying a revolving storm may also be enumerated thus :— 1. A very rapid motion of the air, constituting the hurricane, and increasing in velocity as the centre is approached. 2. A fitful variation of intensity in the force of the wind, which sometimes blows with fearful violence, carrying away everything that opposes its progpress, then sinking to a gentle breeze, or even lulling to a calm, but almost im- mediately afterwards springing up with greater violence than before. The hurricane winds are nearly, if not entirely, without exception puffy, violent, and blowing in gusts. 3. An immense condensation of aqueous vapour, forming large banks of cloud, whidi precipitate torrents of rain. The condensation appears to be so ex- ceedingly rapid that large quantities of electricity are generally developed, giving rise to incessant flashes of lightning. 4. A general darkness and gloominess within the area of the cyclone, relieved only by the fitful glare of the lightning, or the appearance of the imperfect circle of light near the centre or axis of the storm. 5. A separation of the clouds in or near the centre of the hurricane, so as to produce in the immediate neighbourhood of the axis a clear sky, through which the sun and stars are oflen seen with great brilliancy. 6. A calm in the centre of the cyclone. Indications of approaching or existing hurricanes manifested by the ocean, of special utility to vessels at anchor in roadsteads, &c. : — 1. A swell produced by the storm- wave rolling in upon the shore, at first of a gentle character. The direction of this swell will pretty surely indicate the bearing of the storm, and its changes will point out, in some localities, the course the hurricane may be pursuing. 2. A swell rolling in, without changing its direction, may be regarded as indi- cative of a hurricane approaching the shore. The same phenomenon met with at sea (the ship's course being taken into account), will indicate the bearing down of the cyclone on the vessel. 3. A dirty green appearance of the ocean ; on some occasions its assuming a muddy or brown colour, on others its being remarkably clear; its tempera- ture increasing, and its smelling stronger than at other times, are all indi- cations of the proximity of a cyclone. * i ^ /^ r^ i ^ Digitized by VjOOQ IC 160 HUKRICANES OR CYCLONES. aao. Vhe BUmnmVnuw.'-^The rotation of the wind in a harrioane violently agitates the surface of the ocean in the direction of the wind, prodncinv a gwell or StobH'Wayb, the undulations of which roll on to an extraordinary distance i the ware thus propagated advances as a tangent to the whirlwind. The wind, however, veers ; and thence there results a series of undulations rolling from the margin of the storm, both in advance and regression of the storm itself, and the succession of undulations encountering each other produces, in the area of intersection, cross seas more or lets dangerous according as they are met in advance of or behind the hur- ricane. It is easy to see that such a series of undulations must always fringe the storm's wake, and be found to the right and left of the path over which the cyclone has advanced ; while the long rolling swell generally precedes it, and thus indicates the approach of the gale many hours — ^if not a day — ^before it is encountered by the ship. In the Nosthern Hemisphebe it is on the left pide of the storm's wake, in the SouTHEBN Hemisphere on the right side of the storm's path, that the cross pyramidal sea is found; and when a ship meets with snoh a sea, it may be taken as a tolerably certain indication that a rotatory gale haa passed over the locality. Generally the storm-waves undulate in a direction which, the farther they are from the vortexj is more at right^angles with the direction of the wind : in a heavy gale they merely proceed in the direction of the gale itself. DovB Bi^Bj that the undulations of the waves, during a whirlwind storm, proceed from the centre in such directions that the farther they are from it the less is their radial difibrence; thus their course is from the centre of the storm to its circum- ference-^in a direction somewhat inclined forward in relation to the gyration of the oyclone wind, and to which Bbid'b attention was particularly called; consequently, the three descriptions of storms more closely examined differ in the following manner, viz. : — 1. In a whirlwind storm the waves undulate in a direction which is more at right angles with the direction of the wind the farther they are fix>m the vortex. 2. In a heavy gale they proceed in the same direction as the gale itself. 3. In a gale which arrests the progress of a wind blowing from the opposite quarter, seamen say that the two winds are fighting. laiLi ftnlea for Trftnmtng the Ship Ui a Bmrleaaet—FiDDiNGTON long ago said that tXi positive rules for manoeuvring tend to mislead; every ship must have its own peculiar management depending on the four great elements of the problem, which are — 1, the ship and her sea-room ; 2, the track of the cyclone; 3, its rate of travelling ; and 4i the ship's run and drift ; while on the part of the commander, caution and watchfuhieas are essentially requisite. Still, all the circumstances being favourable* rules may be given iu a very brief compass ^r trimming a vessel to the hurricane-winds ; these are embodied in the following Tables, where the directions of the wind*vane as set down in the first column, are tangents to the whirlwind in its course— these indicate the quarter from which the storm sets in ; the points of the compass in the second column show the position of the storm's centre as regards the vessel ; the fourth column gives the direction in which to steer when the wind shifts as indicated in the third column; but if it shifts, as indicated in the fifth column^ then bear away, aa told in the sixth column. Digitized by Google HURRICANES OR CYCLONES. 151 1. Fob thb Nobthbbk Hbkisphbbb:— Direction of Wind at oom- menoement of Storm. N.W. N.W.bvN. N.N.^V'. H.^W. N.byE. N.E.WN. N.£. N.E by E. E.N.E. E.WN. B. by S. E.S.E. S.B. by E. S.E. S.E.byS. S.S.B. S. by E. S. 8.byW. S.S.W. S.W. by S. S.W. If the Centre (or Vortex) beai*s N.E. N.E. by E. E.N.B. E.WN. E. by S. E.S.E. S.E. by B. S.E. S.E. by S. S.S.B. S. by E. S. S. by W. S.S.W. S,W.byS. B.W. S.W.byW. W.S.W. w.ws. W.byN, W.N.W. N.W. by W. N.W. And the Wind shifts from N.W. to W. N.W.byN.toW. N.N.W. to W. N.byW.toW. N.toW. NbyB.toN, N.N.E. to N. |N.E.byN.toN. N.B. to N. N.E.byE.toN. E.N.E. to N. E.byN.toN. E.toN. E. by S. to E. E.S.E. to E. SJ:.byE.toE. S.E to E. S.E. by S. to E. S.S.E. to E. S. by E. to E. S.to£. S. by W. to S. S.S.W. to S. S.W.byS.toS. S.W. to S. Steer But if the Wind shifts from aE. S.E. by S. S.S.E. S. bv E. S.byW. S.S.W. S.W. by S. S.W. S.W.byW. W.S.W, W.bvS, W.byN W.N.W. N.W. by W. N.W. N.W. by N N.N.W. N.byE. N.N.E. NE.byN. N.E. N.W. to N. N.W.byN.toN. N.N.W. to N. N. byW.toN. N.toE. N. bv E. to E. N.N.E. to E. N.E. by N.toE. N.B. to E. N.B. by E. to E. E.N.E. to E. E. by N.toE, E.toS. B. by S. to 9. E.S.E. to S. 'S.E.byE.toB. ' S.E.toS. S.E. by S. to S. S.S.E. to S. S. by B. to a S,toW. S. byW.toW. S.^W. to W. S.W.byS.toW. S.W.toW. 5 2. Fob thb Southbbn Hbkisphbbb. Direction of Wind at com- meocement of Storm. S. 8. by E. S.aB. S.B. by 8. S.E. S.E. by E. ES.E. Eb)S. E. by N. E.N.E. N.E. by E. N.E. N.E by N. N.N.B. N.bvW. 1 N.N.W. I N.W. by N. I N.W. If the Centre (or Vortex) bears E E.byN. E.N.B. N.E.byE. N.E. N.E. by N. N.N.B. N.byE. N. N. by W. N.N.W. N.W. by N. N.W. N.W. by W. W.N.W. W. WN. W. by S. W.S.W, S.W. by W. S.W. And the Wind shifts from S. toW. S. by E. to 8. S.S.E.toS. S.B. by S. to S. S.E. to S. S.E. by E. to S. E.S.B. to S. E. by 8. to S. E.toS. E. by N. to E. E.N.E. to E. N.E. by E. to E. N.B. to E. N.E. by N.toE. N.N.E. to B. N. by B. to E. N.'to E. N. by W. to N. N.N,W. to N. N.W.byN.toN N.W. to N. Steer N. N.byW. N.N.W. ^ N.W. by N. N.W. N.W. by W. W.N.W. W. WN. W. by S. W.S.W. S.W.byW. S.W. S.W. by S. S.S.W. ■ S. by W. S. by B. S.S.E. S.E. by S. •g.E. Bat if the Wind i^flsfrom S.toB. S, by E. to E. 8.S.B. to E. S.E. by S.toB. S.E. to E. S.E. by E. to E. B.S.E. to B. E. by S. to E. B. toN. E.byN.toN. E.N.B. to N. N.E.byE.toN. N.E to N N.B.byN.toN. NN.E.toN. N. by E. to N. N.toW. N.byW.toW. N.N.W. to W. N.W.byN.toW. N.W. to W. I g ■B I 162 HURRICANES OR CYCLONES. laa. The following Memoir on the Hurricanes of the Sonthem Indian Ocean, by Mr. C. Meldbtjv, illustrative of the origin of these storms from the antagonism of the N.W. Monsoon and the S.E. Trade, will be interesting to navigators :— Hurrieaaea aad HT^eatber In tba fndlaa Ooean. FsoM THE 17th op Januabt to the 18th op Pbbkuabt, 1860. The hurricane of the 8th to the 16th of January had scarcely disappeared when another originated near the same locality, and under similar circumstances. This second hurricane, which was of small extent, but very violent, commenced on the 17th or 18th, and lasted till the 21«t or 22nd. The Portuguese brig of war Mondega,^ with 46 of her crew, went suddenly down on the 22nd ; and the Cossipore and Tarra, the former vessel having on board 350 passengers (chiefly soldiers' wives and children), were in danger of a like fate. Fron\ the 24th to the 29th of the month a third hurricane, also of small extent, but of considerable violence, occurred in almost the same latitudes, to the northward and westward of Mauritius, where it was encountered by the Attetk Mahaman, Oironde, and other vessels. The olgeot of this paper is to present some of the leading facts connected with those two hurricanes, and to show that both were cyclones travelling to the south- westward. We begin with the hurricane of the 17th to the 22nd. On the 18th the centre of the storm was probably in 15° 30' S. and 75° 30' E., between the S.E. Trade and the N.W. Monsoon, the Trade extending &om about 30^ S., and the Monsoon (so far as our observations show) to 13° S. From noon to midnight the Cossipore steered N.E. 42 miles, with a falling barometer and an increasing gale from S.E. By 6 p.m. the gale had increased to a hurricane from S.E., with heavy rain, the barometer standing at 28*844. " At 8.30 blew away the mizeu staysail. At 9.45 the hurricaner still increasing; — ^blew away the jib and flying boom and sails, bringing the fore-royal mast with them ; barometer 28-644. At 11, bar. 28*364 Midnight, the hurricane still increasing (barometer 28*384) ; blew away the main and mizen topmasts over the side, staving the decks and bursting one of the scuttles ; washed away the port quarter-boat, Ac." None of the other vessels had as yet got involved in the storm. The Uriel, however, at some distance to the N.E.-ward of the Cosstpore, had fresh gales from E.N.E., with " doubtful weather," a low barometer (29*60), and a heavy swell from the northward. The Tarra and Lawrence, both standing to the W., had the Trade from E. and E. by S. in fresh breezes, but increasing in strength, with rain and an ugly ap- pearance in the afternoon. In the early part of the day the Yarra experienced a heavy swell from W. i N. The storm at noon on this day (the 18th) had a diameter of about 240 miles. South of the 30th parallel, and from 30^ E. to 62° E., there were several vessels all having Northerly (chiefly N.W.) winds; and west of 30^ E. the winds were Southerly. The following are the positions of some of the vessels at noon, with the direction • The Mimdeffa^e log-book was probably lost at sea. Digitized by LjOOQIC SOUTHERN INDIAN OCEAN. 168 ofthe wind, &c. (The force is indicated by Bbaufobt's notation, in brackets, thus (2) ; fiEAUF0fiT*8 notation is also used for the weather in the Port Louis observations) :— - Marquise :^ZeP dff S.; 6° 26' E. ; wind S.W. (2) ; cloudy, drizzling rain. Ea^le .—^3° 3' S. ; 14° 4' E. ; wind S. (6) ; dear. Tkerese .—34° 4^ S. ; 18° 3' B. ; wind S.S.E. (9) ; cloudy, hazy. Tidlockgorum:-^Z1'' 40^8.; 23"^ 16' E.; wind S. (4); cloudy and passing showers. Jules and AglaJhi^-UP 2' S.; 33° 6' E. ; wind N.W. (6) ; cloudy, squaUy, and heavy sea. QahOea .—38° 21' S. ; 36° 4(y E. ; wind N.W. (6) j bar. 29*919 ; cloudy, squally. La BrtAagM:—^?P 14' S.; 39° 28' E.; wind N. (2); bar. 29-93; ther. 61° fine. MargwrUe iPAnjou .—88° 34^ S. j 40^ 61' E. j wind N.N. W. (6) j fine. Staff .—41° 31' S. ; 44° 67' E. ; wind N.N.W. (6) ; bar. 2994 j ther. 69° ; cloudy, passing showers. Arthur and Mathilde .—40^ 39' S. ; 44° 40' E. ; wind N.N. W. (6) j bar. 29716 ; cloudy. Amhrxdsine .—48° 33' S. ; 64° 4(y E. ; wind N.N.W. (6) ; bar. 29-76 ; ther. 69°; showers, squally, hazy. George Washington .—39° 34' S. ; 61° 41' B. ; wind N.E. (6) ; cloudy, squally. These extra-tropical counter-currents of air were observed during the hurricane of the 8lh to the 16th of January. Thubspay, thb 19th of Jakuaby: — At noon on this day the S.E. Trade, as observed bj eleven vessels, prevailed from nearly 30° S. to 19° S., blowing in strong gales in about 21° S. and 73° E., where it formed part of the cyclone, — the winds to the northward of that position curving from W. to N.W., N., and E.N.E. The positions, &c., of some ofthe vesseb which had the Trade are as follows :— 22aiHMi#craf^.— 22° S.; 84° 6' E.; wind E.S.E. (6)j bar. 29-898; ther. 78°; passing showers, squally, hazy. CoMtero .—24° 27' S. ; 80P E. ; wind E.S.E. (6) ; cloudy. ia«r««j«.— 21° 27' S.; 72° 31' E.; wind E.N.E. to E. (8); bar. 29*80; squally, rain, very windy appearance. Tarra .—20° 36' S. ; 73° 27' E. ; wind E. by S. to E. (8) ; bar. 29-91 ; cloudy, nun. Thomas Blgth .—23° 44' S. ; 62° 9' E. ; wind E. by S. to E. (2) ; bar. 3016 ; fine dear weather. Luey :-^2ff 28' S. ; 69° 33' E. ; wind E.S.E. (1, 2) ; fine and clear. Australia .—18° 28' S.; 62° 18' E. ; wind E. to S.E. (6) ; fine. The winds and weather to the north of the Lawrence and Yarra were as follows : Walmer Castle :^W S.; 71° 16' E. ; wind W. (2); cloudy, heavy swell from louthwaid. JTycfcrft?.— 14°14'S.; 73°10'E.; wind N.W. (4); bar. 30-044; fine; midnight, lightning. Owi^pore.— 17° 36' S.; 74° 19' B.; wind N.N.W. to N.; bar. 29244; hurriciDe; rain. Uriel :-19° 19' S. ; 74° E. ; wind E.N.B. to N JJ.E. (9) ; bar. 29-61 ; then 77° aq^udly, rain ; terrific sea. , ^^^i^ Digitized by VjOOQLc 154 HUBBICANES OR CYCLONES. From these oheervations it is evident that there was a revolving storm at noon on this day, having its centre in abont 17^ 15' S. and 73^ SO' E. It appears from the log of the Coasipore, that "at 1 A.V. (bar. 88-394), the calm centre passed over the ship, the wind then veering to the westward, and blowing as hard as before, with heavy rain. At 2 a.h., wind N.N.W. ; course west; barometer 28*364. At 5, barometer 28*444. At 5.30, the mainsail blew away in the gaskets. At 6, barometer 28644, and at 7, 28744. At 8, the hurricane still blowing hard, with heavy rain. At 10, the hurricane still blowing at its strength, the sea washing over all ; barometer 29*044. At 4 p.m., fresh gales from N., with heavy rain. At 6, barometer 29*644 Midnight, strong gales fi-om N., and heavy rain. Bore away for the Mauritius to refit.*' The log does not state how long the calm lasted ; but if, as recorded in the log, the wind at 1 A.ii. ceased at S.E., and was from N.N.W. at 8 am., the duration of the calm cannot have exceeded an hour. In the centre the barometer apparently stood higher than it did both before and after the calm. With the Uriel the wind veered in the course of the day from E.N.E. to N., and at 11 p.H. was blowing a hurricane, with an awAil sea running. The barometer attained its lowest reading (29*48) at 4 f.h. In the early part of the day the Tarra had an increasing gale from £. by S., with heavy rain ; and, as she ran W. by N., at the rate of eight knots per hour, the wind veered to S.E., the barometer at 4 p.m. standing at 39*858, and at midnigbt at 29*608. As the Oossipore was in the central calm, at 1 A.M., in 16** W S. and 74^ 25' B. — the centre travelled from noon on the 18th to that hour, S. 46** 50* W. 86*2«1 miles, or at the hourly rate of 6*6 miles. Prom 1 A.M. to noon on the 19th the storm travelled S. 48° 53' W. 69*96 miles, which gives an hourly rate of 6*3 miles. The course and distance from noon on the 18th to noon on the 19th were S. 47^ 45' W. 156-2 miles j so that the hourly rate of progression for the 24 hours was 6*5 miles. Although the wind had a circular movement over a space of about 400 miles in diameter, it did not blow hard except near the centre. The observations taken at Port Louis were :— Hour. Baromi Unoor* rected. Att Ther. Ther. Wet Bulb Ther. Wind. Weather. Direc- tion. Force in lbs. per sq. foot. 3iA.H. 9* „ 3| P.M. 9i „ 29-950 30000 29-956 30030 81*0 79*5 85*0 85*0 83-0 81*0 82-0 810 750 76*0 760 750 Calm N.B. W.-ward E.-ward 000 0-20 015 0-40 line o,r. c; fine These observations gave no indication of the hurricane that raged at a distance of Digitized by VjOOQ IC SOUTHERN INDIAN OCEAN. 155 Between 30P and 40P S., and between f and 64° E., the Northerly and Southerly counter-winds were still blowiDg, generally in fresh breezes, with fine weather ; but owmg to want of observations from 25° to 37° S., the inner boundaries of the two winds, and the space between them, cannot be determined. FsiDAT, THB SOph OF Jahttaut :— On this day, the Trade prevailed from 30° to 19° 8., except between 68° and 76° E., where the cyclone was still raging. Between those meridians Northerly winds extended as far as 21° S., where they encountered the Trade, and, with it, formed the hurricane. These Northerly winds were probably a oontinnation of the N.B. Trade which was then blowing fresh in the space from 9° to 6° N. and 80° to 90P B., while in 3° to 6° S. and 70^ to 80° E. the wind wasN.W. The winds nearer the storm, on its northern side, were as follows :•— AuffU9ia:^\4P 56' S.| 70° 68' £.} wind NJ!. (4); fine; a swell from southward. Syderee .—14° 38' S.; 71° 33' E.; wind N.B. by E. (4); bar. 30-044; at 6 a.m. lightning ; at noon, fine. Walmer €astle;^U^ SO' S. j 70° 69' E. ,• wind N. by W. (2) ; cloudy, passing showers. Cfewfiwv.— 18° 2' S.; 72° 46'E.j wind N. (8); bar. 29744; very squaUy, much rain. Uriel .—31° 12' S. j 71° 17' E. j wind N. by W. ; bar. 29-62 ; ther. 81°; blowing terrifically. The Yarra, at noon, was in the central calm. Till 1 a.h, she ran to the W. *' with squnre sail, but was then obliged to heave-to on the port taok (wind S.E.)> At 2 A.M ., a furious gale with a terrific sea ; barometer 29*410. At 3, increased to a hurricane ; ship heading S.S.W. At 6, the sails went to pieces ; ship under water ; shipped some heavy seas. At 8, barometer 28'710 ; bent the storm sail. At 9, the hurricane more furious ; the ship lying dead down in the water ; the long-boat under water ; expecting the ship to go down. From 10 to 11^, the hurricane was at its greatest height ; barometer 28*310; the lee-side under water ; could not say whether there was anj sea or not, — ^it appeared to be smooth, as the ship never moved; could not stand on deck or hold on, — the Captain gave orders for all hands to go into the cabin ; the sight was frightful ; it seemed as if the sea and sky had met together ; the royal braces were carried away with the force of the wind, <&c. At 11), it fell calm; the sea was then running in masses all round, one sea meeting another and making a clean breach over us, on both sides ; the barometer suddenly rose to 28-610.- Lat, D. R., 20° 46' 8.,— Long., D. R., 71° 1' E. i—** P.M.— -Commences with a calm and a fearful sea running in all directions. At 1, blowing a heavy gale from N.N.E., which lasted two hours; it then blew from N.E. and E. At 4, the baro« meter, which had been gradually going up, went suddenly down to 28*410 ; it then blew aadher hurricane^ but not so Airiously as from 10 to 11^ a.m. At 6, the baro« meter commenced to rise regularly one-tenth an hour, until 2 A.M. (on the 21st), when it went down two^tenths." While the Tarra was becalmed at noon, and the Uriel (a feir miles to the east* ward and aouthward of her) had a hurricane from N. by W.« the Lamtnee^ in 21" 43' 8. (D. B.) and 7QP 4& E. (D. R.). had a heavy^^d.^ fr^ Jl^^g^ 156 HURRICANES OR CYCLONES. terrific squalls and much rain, the wind in the afternoon veering with her toN.E. On all sides of those vesseb, except on the northeruj the S.E. Trade was blowing. Thus, the Baven^craig in ID"" S. and 83'' 54' E. had a strong breeze from the S.E., with cloudy weather and passing showers; in 24° Wf S. and 77° 18' E. the Caniero had also strong breezes from E.S.E. and similar weather ; and near Maaritius and Rodriguez, seyeral Tcssels had light winds from the E.S.E.-ward, with fine weather. The centre of the storm must have been in about 20° 3(y S. and 70° 18' E., although the Yarra*t position, by dead reckoning, would place it a little further E. From the previous noon, therefore, the storm travelled S. 42° 59' W. 266'5 miles, or at the rate of 11*1 miles per hour. The revolving body of air had still a diameter of about 400 miles. It would appear that the barometer of the Yarra rose -^^ of an inch in the centre, and then fell, just as the Cossipores barometer had done (tiiough not to the same ex- tent) at 1 A.M. on the 19th. The observations taken at Port Loub were— Hour. Barom. Uncor- rected. Att. Ther. Bulb Ther. Wet Bulb. Ther. Wi Direc- tion. ND. Force in lbs. per 8q.foot Weather. 3U.H. 9i ,. 34 p.m. 9t „ 29*982 30-042 30004 30-060 82-0 82-0 840 82-0 81-0 81-0 82-0 801 75-3 75-8 75-3 74-3 Calm E.-ward E.S.E. 0-00 0-20 0-30 1-50 c. but fine o.g. 0. p. c. but fine We see from the above Table that the barometer at Port Louis was rising, although the centre of the storm was 200 miles nearer than at noon on the 19th. From 40"" to 50° £. and 36° to 40° S. five or six vessels had light winds from the N. W.-ward, with fine weather ; and these N.W.-ly winds extended to at least 48° 69' S. and 64° 44' E. West of those vessels, again, from 11° to 24° E. and from 33° to 39° S., the wind was S. We have still evidence, therefore, of the existence of the oppositely directed Northerly and Southerly winds which were observed on the previous days, although the limits of the space between them are unknown. Sattjbdat, thb 2lsT OF January. — ^The hurricane still existed; but it was apparently abating. The positions, winds, &c., of some of the vessels, at noon, were as follows : — Augusta .—15° 30' S., 69° 48' E. ; wind N. to N.E. (4) ; cloudy, passing showers, lightning in the morning. Walmer Castle.— 16° 5' S.; 69° 17' E.; wind N.N.E. (2); cloudy and sultry; swell from southward. -Hyrferw.— 16°56'S.; 69°34'E.; wind N.E. (2); bar. 30044; fine; at 6 P.M. passing showers, squally, much thunder and lightning. Cassipore.'^ieP 2' S.; 70° 51' E.; wind N. (5); bar. at 1 jlu. 29*744; ther. 80^ j squally, much rain, heavy sea. Digitized by LjOOQIC SOUTHEBN INDIAN OCEAN. 157 Ftfrw.— 2P 31' S.; 70° 31' B.; wind E. by S. (9); bar. 29-61 ,• cross sea; Ijmg to on port tack. Lawrence i—TSP 3' S. ; 69° 39' B.; wind B. by N. (9) ; very squally, rain. ITmr— 23° icy S.; 70° 6' E.; wind E2J.B. (9) ; bar. 29-74,; ther. 82°; rain; awfal sea. CaiUero .—24° S.; 74° 23' E. ; wind B. to B.N.B. (6) ; bar. 30*134; ther. 78°; cbady, sqoally, rain. As from 10^ N. to 6° S. and from 66° to 94° B., the wind, as observed by ten veareb, was from N.B. and N.W., it is probable that the Northerly winds, from 15° to 18° S., experienced by the Auguata, Syderee, Sfo,, were a continuation of the N.E. Trade. The 8.E. Trade prevailed both to the east and to the west of the northerly stream of sir, as if the latter had penetrated into the former. In 15° 43' S. and 84° 11' B., for example, the Bavenscrcng had a fresh breeze from B.S.E. ; while at Mauritius, and a few degrees to the eastward of it, the wind was also from E.S.B.-ward. If the storm was a revolving one at noon on this day, its centre was in about 21° 40^ S. and 69° 15' B.; but whatever may have been its character near the centre, the winds at some distance were not moving round a central point. Since noon on the 20th the centre travelled S. 39° 35' W. 908 miles, or at the hourly rate of 3*8 miles. Its rate of progression had, therefore, greatly diminished. The gale at noon on this day seems to have extended over an area of about 350 miles in diameter. The observations taken at Port Louis were — Hour. Barom. Uncor- rected. Att Ther. Ther. Wet Bulb Ther. WlKD. Weather. Direc- tion. Force in lbs. per sq. foot. 3ijLM. 9i „ 29*992 30-038 29-974 30-044 81-0 84-0 860 82-0 80-0 830 84-5 80-5 730 750 750 73-5 B.S.B. n B.-ward 200 300 •200 0-30 0.; fine q.; M q-; >f b.c. „ Compttring the above observations with those of the 20th, we find that the barometer was now banning to go down a little, with an increasing breeze from E.S.E. The Northerly and Southerly winds, beyond the S.E. Trade, prevailed in the *ame locality as yesterday. 8tm>A.T, TiTB 22nd of Januast. — At noon, on this day) we have no observations in the apace from 24° to 36° S. and from 60° to 80° B. ; but the winds to the north- '^^ of 24° S.9 being from N.E. over eight degrees of latitude, they do not appear to have belonged to a cyclone beyond the Tropic. These N.B.-ly winds were ex- P^f^fiooed by iiie following vessels : — Augntta .—16° 6' S. ; 68° 26' B. ; wind N.E. (2) j cloudy, and mucK lightnim^ Digitized by VjOOglC 168 HUBRICANBS OB CYCLONES. Walmet Ooith.-^ie^ 35' S.j 68° 9' E.; wind KB. (1); cloudy, and swell from S. Si/dere0:^ieP 68' S.; 68° 28' E-j wind N. by E. (4)*; bar. 80-064, cloudy, lightning ; at 8 P.H. squallyi rain, thunder and lightning. Owwixwtf :— 18° 2' S. J 69° 16' E. ; wind N.N.E. (2) ; bar. at 1 a.m. 88*894; tber. 80°; cloudy, rain. Lawrence :^22P 3' S. ; 66° 21' E. ; wind N,E, (4) ; fine. CafUero ;--.22° 62' 8. i 71° 29' E. ; wind K.E. (6) ; clear. Yarra .*«^22° 67' S. ; 70^ 11' E. , wind E. by N. (8) ; dearing np ; orou sea. I7ne^— 28° 39' S.| 68° 6' E.; wind E.N.E. (8); bar. 29*98; ther. 79°; moderating. The N.E. Trade extended as far u 4° S., between 75° and 83° E.; 00 that the N.E.*ly windi reported by these veesels may have been a continuation of tho Trade. The S.B. Trade existed on each side of the N.E.-ly stream of air, and extended, to the 8.W.-ward of Mauritius, as fi»r as 29° S. The observationB taken at Port Louis were— Hour. Barom. Uncor- rected. Att. Ther. Dry Bulb Ther. Wet Bulb Ther. Wind. Weather. Direc- tion. Force in lbs. per sq. foot. 3^ A.M. 3i P.M. 9f „ 29-990 80086 29 988 30040 810 83-0 860 820 791 831 84-1 80-6 72-8 74-3 74-3 73-3 E.-ward ft Calm 0.40 1.00 1.00 0.00 Fine; light q. c; fine. Clear. It will be seen that the barometer at Port Louis had still a downward tendency. North of Mauritius, the Zaunoeitan, in 17° 45' S. and about 57° E, had heavy squalls from eastward and bad weather. Considering, then, the N.E.-ly stream of air, from 16° 6' S. and 68° 26' E. to 23"^ 39' S. and 68° 6' E.,— the winds and weather with the Zauncestoni^soiA the existenoe of the S.E. Trade at Mauritius and to the S.W.-ward of it, — we may infer the probability of a gyratory movement of the atmosphere on this day, as if another hurricane were being formed to the northward of the island. At all events, we cannot trace the Yarra'i hurricane beyond this day. The logs of the following vessels show that between 35° and 44° S. and between 43° and 64° E., there were two contrary currents of air. Jules and ^^W;— 39° lO' S.; 43° lO' E.; wind S.S.W, (6); squally, and heavy sea. So^al Bride .—39° 58' S. ; 45° 34' E. ; wind S.W. (5) ; heavy sea. Galatea .—37° 29' S. ; 48° 54' E.; wind S. (9); bar. 30*07 ; hazy, rain. Marguerite d^Af\jou .—^5° 46' S. ; 61° 11' E. ; wind N.E. (2) ; fine. . Arthur and Maihilde :--^^'' 38' S.; 52° 37' E.; wind N.W. (2); bar. 3011; clear. La Bretagne:—Z^ 19' S.; 62° 21' E.; wind N.N.W. (2); bar. 29-92; ther. 73°; cloudy, thunder. ^.g.,^^, .^ L^OOglC SOUTHEBN INDIAN OCEAN. 150 Aff^f— 96^37' S.; Se'^e'S.i wind N.N. W. (5); bar. 30*06 ( ther. e?""; fine. Qe&rge Washington .—36° 33' S. ; 63° 34' E. ; wind NE. (2) ; cloudy and hazy. PiUroMoiMg/— 4d°16'ai 69° E.; wiDdN.W.(6)s cloudy. The first three of these vessels had the wind, at the preceding noon, firom N.N.E. and N.W., snd it veered, or ihiftad, by tha W. With the Eogal Bride it shiiUd, at 8 P.M. on the 2lBt, from N.W. to S.W., in a aqoalli and it seems to have shifted alio witii the JuUt and AglaS and the CMaUa, The barometer of the latter veesel IQM 0-26 inch with the Southerly winds, it having at the previous nooUf with the wind firesh from N.N.B., heen at 29*61. MoVDAT, THfi 28b]} ov JAlflVi^BT.^As W6 hav6 xu) observations from 88° to 30^ S. and from 60° to 80^ E., it is impossible to say whether the winds in that locality belonged to a rotatory gale. From 16° to 23° S. and from 64° to 71° E., however, the wind was from N.W.-wtrd to N.E.«ward,-— and at ICauritioB and to the S.W.-ward of it, from E.8.£.*ward, as if there were an aerial movement round a central pointy not south of the Tropic, but to the northward of Mauritius. This will appear from tiie logs given below :— Augtuta s^W 29^ S. $ 67° 26' X. ) wind K. W. (1, 2) \ doudyi rain« Waimer (kuth /^16° 66' S. $ 67^ 3' £. i wind N.W. (4) $ threatening appearance, rain, thunder* Hgd^ree r^lT^ 36' 8. ; 67° 5' E. ,* wind variable (1) i bar. 30*064^ squally, rain. Couipare .—18° 10' S. ; 67° 46' E. j wind N. by W. (4) ; bar. at 1 jlm. 29*944; ther. 82° { at4A.li. much thunder and lightning, with rain$ noon, squally with rain. Lawrenee>-%V^^&,\ 64° 60" E.; wind N.E. (2, 1)) doudy, showers, dark weather. Tarra .—22° 14' S. ; 68° 19' E. ; wind N. by E. (8) j gloomy, rain and thunder; swell from N. by E. Cantero .—22° 30' S.j 70° E.; wind N.E. (4); find; IP.M. lightning. Swallow .-—25° 20' S. ; 51^ 63' E. ; wind S.E. (4) ; fine. 2>rkMi/— 27° 68' S.; 46° 15' E.; wind E.S.E. (6); hazy, rain. The barometer at Port Louis was going down^ as the following observations showt*- Hour. Barom, Uncor- rected. Att. Ther. Buiib Ther. Wet Bulb. Ther. Wn?D. Weather. Direc- tion. Force in lbs. per sq. foot. 3^A.X. 3iP.if. 9i ,. 29-980 30026 29-950 3OO0O 81-0 84-0 86*0 82*0 80-1 62*5 84-6 80*5 72-0 74*0 76*0 74*0 E.S.E. E.-ward 012 1*00 1-50 2*00 Clear and fine C. g. b. c. ; fine c; 1. to N.- ward In about 17^ 40' 8. l^tid 68° E. the Launenton had an increasing gale from ^.lJ.l."Ward, with heavy rain. These winds and positions ahow that the N.W. Monsoon aud the S.E. XkoA^^ Digitized by 160 HURRICANES OR CYCLONES. at least a tendency to rotate ; and we thus obtcun some idea of the manner in which revolving storms are generated. On this, as on previous days, lightning was frequently observed where the Northerly winds prevailed. . In the Eastern part of the Ocean the S.E. Trade seems to have extended from 27^ S. and 101° E. to 8° S. and 83° E. South of the 30th parallel, from 45° to 65° E., the winds were from S.E. to S. and S.S.W., as shown by the logs of nine vessels, the Northerly winds which were found yesterday, at noon, from 51° to 64° E. having either veered, or shifted, through the West. The following were the positions, &c., of the vessels at noon :— Jules and Afflaei-^BQ"^ 9^ S. ; 45° 2' E. ; wind E.S.E. to E. (1) ; cloudy and heavy swell on. Jioyal Bride .—39° SO' S. ; 46° E. ; wind E. by S. (2) ; clear and fine. Galatea .—35° 36' S. ; 50^ 56' E. ; wind S.E. by E. (9); cloudy. MargueriU d'Anjau .—34° V S. ; 64° 33' E. ; wind S.S.E. (6) ; fine. Arthur and Maihilde ."^B^ 56' S. ; 54° 35' E.; wind S.E. (5); bar. 3011; cloudy, passing showers. La Bretagne .—33° 34' S. ; 55° 24' E. ; wind S.E. (5) ; bar. 30*39 ; ther. 70° ; fine. Stag ;-^3° 40^ S. ; 58° 51' E. ; wind S.W. (6) ; bar. 30*17 ; ther. 67° ; fine. George Washington :^W 36' S.; 63° 34' E. ; wind S.W. (2); fine. Tharamond:--^^ 12' S. ; 64° 34' E.; wind S.W. (6); at 4 a.m. haU; at noon, fine. These winds were, no doubt, the Trade-wind, stretching, on this day, from 40° S. up to Madagascar and Mauritius ; and it is to be remarked that the vessels farthest West (the Boyal Bride and the Jules and AglaS) had the wind from Eastwai'd. Tuesday, the 24th of Jjjxxjauy, — ^The S.E. Trade (so far as our observations enable us to judge) extendedi as yesterday, in the Eastern part of the ocean, as far as 8° S. and from 72° to 82° E.,— the N.E. Trade crossing the Equator between the same meridians. We have also, as yesterday, a S.£.-ly wind from 36° S. and 52° E. to the vicinity of Mauritius ; and in about 40^ S. and from 46° to 50^ E. the Bojfal Bride and the Jules and AglaS which, at the previous noon, had the wind from Eastward, have it now from ]N.E.-ward, as if this N.E.-ly wind wero a deflection of the S.E.>ly wind to the northward of it,-— or, it may be, the eguatoriaZ winds appearing on the surface. The observations taken at Port Louis were as follows :— Hour. fiarom. Uncor- rected. Att. Ther. Bu*^ Ther. Wet Bulb Ther. Wind. Weather. Direc- tion. Force in lbs. per sq. foot. 3| A.M. 9| ,. 3 J P.M. 9i „ 29-928 29-962 29-900 29*960 81-5 830 85-0 80-5 801* 81-6 83-6 74-8 74-3 76-3 76-8 74-8 E. N.E. 1-50 2-50 0-40 2-00 c. but fine c.q. c.p. 0. q. r. ; much 1. 1 to N.W. Digitized by LjOOQIC SOUTHERN INDIAN OCEAN. 161 Tlie barometer, which was now going down more rapidly, indicated, with the direction and increasing force of the wind, the existence of a second hurricane, to the Northward of Mauritius. The Augusta, Eyderee, Yarra, and Cantero, from 16° 29' S. and 66° 59' E. to 23° 15' S. and 68° E. had the wind light from N.W.-ward, with fine weather— the l^rra, in the early part of the day, having had a fresh gale from N.W.-ward, with thunder. In ir' 56' S. and about 58° E. the Launceston had a gale from N.N.E.-ward. We have, therefore, as yesterday, signs of a stormy gyration to the Northward of Mauritius. Weditbsdat, the 25th op Januabt.— On this day the N.E. Trade was still Grossing the Equator in from 72° to 84° E., and the S.E. Trade seems to have stretched from about 30° S. and 100° E. to 10° S. and 72° E. The S.E. Trade prevailed also from 30° S. and 60^ E. to Reunion and Mauritius. Prom 16° to 19° S. and in about 67° E., the -4tt^M*^aand Hyderee had still light winds from N.W. 5 and a few degrees ferther South the Tarra and Cantero had light winds from S.W.-ward. Obsei-yations taken at Port Louis ; — Hour. Barom. Uncor- rected. Att. Ther. Dry Bulb Ther. Wet Bulb Ther. Wind. Weather. Direc- tion. Force in lbs. per sq. foot. 3i A.1I. 9i ., 3i P.M. 9i „ 29-888 29-940 29-890 29-946 81-0 82-0 84-0 82-0 80-1 81-6 821 81-1 74-8 71-9 77-3 75-8 East e!n.e. E.S.E. 300 100 020 0-50 c. p. q. c. p. 1. 1. r. c. t. 1. The AHeth Bahaman, in 18° 40' S. and 66° 54' E., at noon, had a strong breeze from E.N.E., with fine weather. As she held to the Northward (she was bound to Calcutta from Port Louis), the wind increased from E. and E. by S. " At 6.30 f.h., in first reef of topsails. At 8, barometer 29*60 (ind. err. not known). At 9, in mainsail; split mizen topsail, &o. At 10, hauled down fore-topsail, <&c. ; fore- topgallant mast carried away ; barometer still falling. Midnight, in the vortex ; heavy cross sea; barometer 29*40." The Launceston (her position is not given), not far from the Atietk Bahaman, had the wind, at noon, strong from E. by N., with squalls and heavy rain, — the wind in the afternoon increasing to a hard gale and veering to E., S.E., S., S.W., <&e., till at midnight it was from N.W. It is probable, therefore, that a revolving storm exbted at noon on this day, with its centre in about 16° 40' S. and 57^ E. Beyond the S.E. Trade the wind, as observed by seven vessels, was from N.E. and N.W. ; between 48° and 55° E. it was from N.E., except with the vessel next the Trade, in 32° 29' S. and 48° 26' E., where it was blowing a fresh gale from E. ; m 37° 6' S. and 30° 55' E., it was moderate from N.W. It 18 interes^g to observe how these N.E.-ly winds appeared to the South- H Digitized by VjOOQIC 162 HUREIOANES OR CYCLONES. ward of the Trade whenever the Becond rotatory gale commenced near its eqoatorial limits. Thubsdat, thb 26th of Janitaby.-- We find that on thia day the N.E. Trade was still crossing the Equator, between 73^ and 90^ E. ; and that the S.E. Trade was coming np to within a few degrees of it in that part of the ocean. Prom 50° to 70° E., the S Jl. Trade was blowing from about 27° S. to the neighbourhood of Mauritios and Reunion, where it formed the Southern and Western sides of the cyclone the existence of which had been noticed since the 24th. The following were the positions, winds, &c., of some of the vessels at noon :«~ Kyderee .—-18° 89' S. ; 66^ 37' E. ; wind N.E. (4) ; bar. 30*064; fine. Bias ;— 22° r S. ; 68° 48' E. ; wind E.N.E. (6) ; bar. 29*84; ther. 80°; fine. Lawrence :— 24° 21' S. ; 62° 54' E. ; wind N.E. (2) ; fine. La Bretagne;^%h'' 22' S, j 59° 25' E,f wind E. (1); bar. 30*34; ther. 81°; cloudy and fine. Arihwr and MatUlde .-—26^ T S, ; 57° 29' E. ; wind E. (5) ; bar. 29-913 ; cloudy, squally. Marguerite d^AnJou .—26° 22' S. ; 59° 2' E. ; wind E.S.E. (5) ; cloudy, squally. Swallow .—26° S. ; 51° 30' E. ; wind S.E. (5) ; fine. Nadir .—20° 28' S. ; 51° 43' E. ; wind Southerly (2) ; fine. ^«#-eJy.— 20°46'S.; 54° E.; wind S.E. (6); cloudy, squally. The following observations were taken at Port Louis :-— Hour. Barom. Uncor- rected. Att. Ther. bJ£ Ther. Wet Bulb Ther. Wind. Weather. Direc- tion. Force in lbs. per sq. foot. diA.M. 9i „ Noon 8iP.H. 7 „ 9i ,. Midt. 29-880 29-924 29-920 29*860 29*866 29-874 29-824 81-5 81-5 85-0 83-0 79*0 79-0 78-0 80-0 80-0 811 78*0 ••* 74-3 730 76-0 75'o E.S.E. East E.b.N. E.N.E. »i >$ »> 4*50 4-00 500 4*00 900 5*00 8-00 Fine ( 0. p. q. ; a heavy lseafromN.N.W. *9 »> » M 0. r. 0. r. 1. 1. It would appear from the log of the Atieth Bahaman, that at midnight of the 25th she was in the central calm, after having had the wind from E. to N.E. At 1 A.M . on the 26th, the barometer being at 29*25, she had '* thick, dark, cloudy weather, with rapid lightning. At 3, the wind from N.W. struck the ship with the force of a hurricane, and laid heron her beam ends; vessel making more water than usual,— obliged to keep the pumps going. At 4, barometer 29-80. At 6, sent hands aloft to secure the torn sails. At 8, sent down main-royal yards, fore-royal and top- gallant yards; barometer 29 '40. Noon, still blowing very hard; ship's scuppers under water; ship labouring heavily, and making much water; no suls set ; blowing a regular hurricane ; barometer 29*40. ^'Lftt (D. R.) 18° 8., Long. (D. R.) 57° E. p.M.-^Wind N. te N.N.W. Digitized by LjOOQIC SOUTHERN INDIAN OCEAN. 163 Flying jibboom snapped short off ; nnable to send down fore-topgallant mast and yard , and beiog afraid of its seriously damaging topmast rigging and braces, cat it away, after having managed to send down top*ga11ant yards at great risk. Ship laboarlng heavily, and still lying to nnder bare poles ; blowing a perfect hurricane ; hands kept at the pumps. Midnight, no change ; barometer 29*40. ** The Zauncestan, probably in about 17^ S. and 58° E., had a gale from N.N.W., with hard squalls and rain. From all these observations we infer that the centre of the cyclone was in about 18° 3(y S. and 65° 64/ E. Since the preceding noon, therefore, the storm travelled S. 29° 39' W. 126 miles,— or at the rate of 6*2 mile's per hour. Its diameter was at least 400 miles, though the wind did not blow with hurricane force within the whole of that space. South of the 30th parallel, from 33° to 76° E., fire vessels had fresh and moderate breezes from Northward, chiefly irom N.N.E. Pkidat, thb 27th of jAinJARY.— On this day there were vessels on all sides of the storm, and showing, in the clearest manner, that the wind was etrding round a centre. The following were the winds, &o., of those vessels at Launcesion .—17° 16' S. j 67° SO' E. ; wind N.N. W. (2) ; fair ; made all sail. Auffredy .—19° 15' S. ; 66° 23' E. ; wind N. W. (6) j cloudy, squally. Oironde .—19° 60' S. ; 66° 30' E. ; wind N.W. (11) ; squally ; under bare poles. Sioff .— 20P 82' S. 5 58° 16' E. ; wind N2J.E. (9) j Ur. 29° 70' j ther. 82° ; rain, lightning. * Za Breidgne :^22P 37' S, j 59° 60' E. ; wind B.N.B. (4) ; bar. 30-12 ; ther. 79° ; cloudy, rainy. Arthur and Mathilde ;--23° 26' S. ; 67° 28' E. ; wind E. to E.N.E. (6) ; squally, lain. Aw^fow.— 26°5'S.; 61° 6' E.; windS.B.(6)5 fine. Nadir .— 20P 11' S. ; 63° 10' E. ; wind Southerly (4) ; cloudy, squally, rain. With the Auffiredy, the wind veered from S.W.^ on the 26th| to S., S. W., &o. ,• so that the centre passed to the eastward of her. The Oirande left St. Denis (Beunion) early on the 26th, and steered N.E., with the wind from W.N.W.«ward. In the afternoon, she ran S.E. with the wind from NN.W., bnt at 6 f.h. hove-to on the starboard tack. Ab the direction of the wind is not given in the log of the AHetk JBahaman, that vessel has been omitted in the above Table. At midnight on the 26th, she had a hur- ricane from Northward. "At 3 a.m. (27th) more moderate. At 4, hard gales, with passing rain ; barometer 29'50 ; sent down the*mizen top-gallant yards and mizen top-gallaBi mast. At 6, moderating fast. At 7» set foresail and mizen. At 8, strong breeze and cloudy ; barometer 29'60. At 11, set mizen topsail and mainsail. Noon, moderate breeze and cloudy $ barometer 29*80. Lat. 19° 19' S. } Long. 67°12'E. "p.ic. Moderate breeze and fine."«^h6 had* no doubt, the wind still from the Northward. la the aftenioan, the wind and weather with the Arthur and Mathilde " assumed ^^ appearance of astorm, and from 4 to 8 the wind l^ej^^^^^tl^ extraordinary u 2 1G4 HURRICANES OR CYCLONES. violence ; the sea high, the sky overcast and gloomy ; the breeze always from the same quarter (E.N.E.) without varying. At 9, barometer 29*686 ; blowing with extreme violence and much rain. Midnight, ditto winds and weather.*' The following observations were taken at Port Louis: — Wind. Barom. Att. Ther. Buib Ther. Wet Hour. Uncor- rected. Bulb Ther. Direc- tion. Force in lbs. per sq. foot. Weather. 1 A.M. 29-816 78-5 N.E.b.E. 700 0. r. 3i „ 29-784 790 78-0 750 N.E.b.N. 300 0. g. q. r. 1. 1. 5 „ 29-810 79-0 i.. ... N.N.E. 12-00 }» 7 „ 29-850 79-0 ... ... N.b.E. 400 t9 9i „ 29-910 80-0 78-0 760 North 4-00 0. g. r. 3J P.M. 29-914 81-0 800 760 tt 2-50 0.; finer 9i „ 29-986 81-0 79-0 76-6 N.E. 0-20 0. m. The centre of the storm at noon was in about 20° S. and 56° SO' E. ; so that it travelled since the previous noon S. 14° 11' W. 93 miles, — or at the rate of 3*8 miles per hour. Although the diameter of the whirling body of air was at least 600 miles, the wind did not blow hard over all that space. The N.E. Trade on this day was extending beyond the Equator between 76° and 82° E. ; and the S.E. Trade from 26° S. and 85° E. to about 12° S. and 69° E. From 60° to 70° E. and from 21° to 17° S. the S.E. Trade was deflected to E. and E.N.E. towards the cyclone. The south-western side of the cyclone was evidently formed by the Trade. South of the Trade, in that part of the Ocean, the wind, as obsei-ved by four vessels, from 35° to 69° E., was fresh and moderate from Northward, with fine weather. Satubday, the 28th of Januaet. — The N.E. Trade prevailed in the northern part of the Ocean, and was crossing the Equator in about 80^ E. We have evidence that the wind was still moving round a point to the southward of Mauritius. The storm, however, seems to be dying away. From the following Table it will appear, also, that the Northerly winds extended over several degrees of latitude, as if the cyclone was flattened on its eastern side. Hastern Empire :—\^° 31' S.; 72° 67' E. ; wind S.E. (5); Ur. 30'07; ther. 83 1° ; cloudy, passing showers. Neptune .—14° 43' S. ; 68° 47' E. ; wind S.E. (6) ; fair. Augusta :'^1%'' 9' S.; 61° 63' E.; wind Easterly (2); cloudy; swell from the S.E. Laiorenee .—19° 41' S. ; 60° 41' E. ; wind E.N.E. (2) ; fine. George WatAington .—21° 4' S. ; 59° 12' E. ; wind N.N.E. (4) ; fine. Za Bretagne .—21° 43' S. ; 59° 24' E. ; wind N.N.E. (6) ; bar. 29-96 j ther. 82^ ; fine. Marguerite d^Anjau .—21° 20' S. ; 68° 29' E. ; wind N.E. (5) ; fine ; lightning at 6 P.M. Digitized by VjOOQIC SOTJTHEEN INDIAN OCEAN. 165 Anffredff .—19° 20^ S. ; 67° SO' E. ; wind N.W. (6) ; fine ; a sea on. Qinmde .—21° 2' S. ; 56° 28' E. ; wind North (6) ; veiy heavy sea. Arikur and Mathilde :—2SP 45' S. j 58° 6' E. ; wind North (7) ; bar. 29834 ; sqnallj, rain. SwaUow .--24° 46' S. ; 51° 47' E. ; wind E.S.B. (5) 5 squally, rain. Nadir :-^2(P 24' S. ; 54° 13' E. 5 wind S. W. (1) ; fine. The S.E. Trade prevailed in the eastern part of the Ocean, and apparently curved away towards the storm, becoming successively an E., E.N.E., N.N.E., and N. wind. At Port Louis the following observations were taken :— Hour. Barom. Uncor- rected. Att. Ther. Dry Bulb Ther. Wet Bulb Ther. Wind. ^-- Kr Weather. c. ; fine 0.; „ FineTl.toS.-rd 3JA.M. 94 ,. 31 P.M. 94 „ 29-978 30032 30016 30-088 80-0 82-0 850 82-0 79-0 81-0 831 80-0 760 76-8 78-3 77-0 B.-ward 010 N.N.E. 100 N.-ward; 0-50 Calm j 0-00 The Arthur and Matkilde's barometer at 1 a.m. was at 29*724, and at 5 a.m. at 29'763, — ^the weather improving a little. Prom 4 to 8, the squalls were less violent and at longer intervals, with overcast sky and rain. At 9 a.m. the barometer was 29*842, with the wind squally from North, but the weather improving. We infer that the centre at noon on this day was in about 24° 15' S. and 57° 18' E. Hence the storm travelled, since noon on the 27th, S. 19° 59' E. 271 miles,— or at the rate of 11*3 miles per hour. The storm had a diameter of about 450 miles. As the centre must have passed close to Reunion, information from that island would be interesting. From 34° to 39° S., and from 64° to 59° E., the wind was moderate and fresh from N.£.-ward, with fine weather. SrKDAT, THE 29th OF Januaby. — On this day we have nearly the same winds as on the preceding, except that the cyclone has disappeared. The N.E. Trade was crossing the Equator in about 80° E., and the S.E. Trade, which prevailed in the eastern part of the Ocean, was apparently curving towards Mauritius, forming an E.S.E., E.N.E., and then a Northerly wind, as yesterday. The positions, &c., of some of the vessels were as follows : — Phantom :^229 23' 5.j 80° 46' E.; wind S.E. by E. (5); bar. 30206; clear aadfine. Neptune .—16° 59' S. ; 66° 59' E. ; wind E.S.E. (5) ; fair. AuguMta .—18° 33' S. ; 6(y' 7' E. ; wind Easterly (3) j fine. Nyderee.—l^ 46' S. ; 60° 16' E.j wind E.N.E. (2) ; bar. 30144 5 fine. Lawrence:— 19° 24' S. ; 68° 20' E.; wind E.N.E. (2) ; fine. Oeorye Washington r^2(f 29' S. ; 68° 33' E. ; wind N.E. by N. (^;J^^q[^ 166 HUERICAIIES Oa CYCLONES. Girondc :^20'' 32' S. ; 66° SO' B. 5 wind North (4) ; fine; heavy sea. La Bretagne .~2P 32' S. ; 59° 16' E. j wind N.N.E. (2) ; bar. 30-14 j ther. 82° ; fine. Arthur and Mathilde :^2d^ 46' S. ; 58° 27' E. j wind N.N.W. (2) ; bar. 30-173 ; weather finer. Between the Arthur and Maihilde's position and 30° S. we have no ohaervations ; bnt in 31° 62' S. and 58° 19' E.,the Galatea had, in the morning, a frefih gale from the E., and at noon a strong gale from E.S.E., with her barometer at 29*90. In the afternoon, the wind veered to S.S.E. It is possible, therefore, that the cyclone still existed, having its centre in about 28° S. and 61° E. South of the Oalatea, in 38° 10' S. and 56° 20' E., the JtUcs and Aglae had a fresh breeze from N. to N.N.W., and fine weather. SUMMAUT OP REfl0LT8.*-Tho Yarrdls hurricane originated on the 17th of January, between the S.E. Trade and the N.W. Monsoon, Its course, rate of pro- gressfou, <&c., were as follows :— Date. Centre at Noon, Course. Distance Rate per Diameter in Miles. Lat. Long. in Miles. Hour. Jan. 18 „ 19 „ 20 „ 21 S. / 15 30 17 15 20 30 21 40 E. f 75 30 73 30 70 18 69 15 S. 47°'46' W. S. 43° 49' W. S. 39° 35' W. 156-2 266-5 90-8 6-5 111 8-8 240 400 400 350 The storm, therefore, so far as we have been able to ascertain, travelled a total ^stance of 513*5 miles, gently curving as it advanc<)d to the southward. Two vessels, the Cossipore and Yarra, experienced a calm in the centre of the hurricane. The Cossipore seems to have lost the wind at S.E., and to have got it again at N.N.W., after an interval of nearly an honr ; and thiit, according to the rate at which the meteor was travelling, would give the central calm a diameter of about 7 miles. Ten hours afterwards, the wind with the Yarra ceased (probably at E.S.E. or E.), and, after an hour or so, recommenced at N.N.E. ; which would make the diameter of the calm space about 13 miles. If these numbers are correct, there must have been a dilatation of the central calm. It does not appear that this hurricane, except near the centre, was very circular. At its commencement the centre lay between an Easterly and a Westerly stream of air ; so that at first the storm was probably flattened on its northern and southern sides. It then became more circular (as on the 19th), and afterwards elongated from N. to S., the Northerly winds extending over several degrees of latitude. These Northerly winds were an extension of the N.E. Trade; and the storm lay between them and the S,E. Trade. ^.g.,^^, .^ LriOOgle SOUTHERN INDIAN OCEAN. 16K Although the storm was of imall dimensiont, it was verj violent; and the barometer fell to nearly 28 inches. The Cosdpare's barometer fell with the S.E.-ly wind from -29*944 at noon on the I7th, to 28-364 at 11 p.m. on the 18th, shortly before the calm. In the calm it rose to 28-394, and at 2 A.H., with the wind from NJf.W., it again fell to 28-864. It then b^;im to rise, and by I A.X. on the 22od was at 29*894 The total fall, therefore, was 1-58 inches. The YwrraU barometer fell with the S.E.-lytvind from 29*91 atiloon on the 19th, \xi 28-31 at 11^ A.ir. on the 20th, jnst before getting the calm. In the calm it " suddenly rose to 28-61." Shortly afterwards, it " went suddenly down" to 2841. At length it oommenced to rise, and by noon of the 21st was 29'51. The total Ml was 1*60 inches, or nearly the same as with the Cossipore. From the 18th to the 21st theore was constant heavy rain on all sides of the centre. On the 17th, lightning was observed nearly on all sides of the space where the storm took its origin ; and the weather there was sultiy and oppressive, with light winds. Lightning was observed, also, on the following days, in the Northerly winds, particularly by the Ifyderee, The Northerly winds advanced as far as the Tropic on the 22nd and 23rd (though the storm cannot be traced beyond the 21st) ; and much thunder and lightning was observed on the latter day. From the 17th to the 23rd of the month, a system of Southeily and Northerly winds, travelling to the eastward, was observed sonth of the 30th parallel, as had also been observed from the 9th to the 12th or 13th, while a previous hurricane was raging to the northward. The Southerly winds advanced from about 26® E. on the 17th, to 65® E. on the 23rd $ the winds, with the vessels in the Northerly current to the eastward, veering or shifting, by the N. and W., to S.W., S., and S.E. By the time (the 23rd) that all the winds, observed to the south of the dOth parallel, were Southerly (chiefly from S.E.), and the N.W. Monsoon had, as already stated, extended to the Tropic amidst much lightning, the second hurricane was apparently setting in to the northward of Mauritius. The barometer at Port Louis began to go down a little on the 2l8t j but we cannot determine the centre of the hurricane (supposing it existed) till the 25th or 26th. The following Table gives its coursCi rate^ extent^ &c, t— JMe. Centre at Noon. Course. Distance travelled in Miles. Bate per Hour. Diameter in Miles. Lat. Long. Jan. 25 „ 26 „ 27 S. O f 16 40 18 30 20 00 24 15 E. o / 57 00 55 54 56 30 57 18 S. 29® 39' W. 8. 14® 11' W. S. 19® 59' E. 126-0 930 2710 6-2 8-8 11-3 400 600 450 It appears, therefdre, that the storm tnlvelled a distance of at least 490 milesi At Port Loom, th« baiometer fell from 30-088 at 9i a.m. on. the 2|8t, at 168 HUREICANES OR CYCLONES. 3i A.M. on tbe 27th ; the total fall of rain, from 9i a.m. on the 24th to 9^ a.m . on the 28th was 8*277 inches ; and the anemometer indicated a maximum pressure of 12 Ihs. per square foot. This storm, also, was characterized by a central calm in wbich the Atieth Bahaman remained about three hours. The wind seems to have ceased at N.E. to E., and to have recommenced at N.W. It is probable, therefore, that the central calm had a diameter of about 20 miles. In the centre, the barometer with the Atieth Bahaman fell only to 29'25 inches, which is nearly an inch higher than it was with the Yarra and Cossipore in tho centre of their hurricane. On the 26th and 27th, the storm was circular, but on the 28th it was flattened — at least on its eastern side. There was much rain in the body of the storm, especially nefir the centre. Frequent lightning was observed at Port Louis, and in other places, with the Northerly winds. Whenever signs of the hurricane appeared to the northward of Mauritius, a N.E.-ly wind set in beyond the S.E.-ly winds which prevailed as far as 36° S., and speedily occupied, so far as our observations show, the whole space from 30^ to 4£P S. and from 15° to 70° E. On the 27th, however, a Southerly wind made its appear- ance to the westward of the Northerly wind, and it seems to have advanced rapidly to the eastward, till at noon on the 30th all the vessels from 30° to 40° S. and from 60° to 70° E. had again the wind from S. and S.S.W.-ward in fresh With most of the vesssls which had the Northerly winds, the veering or shifl- ing took place through the N. and W. ; but with one or two of those farthest north, and next the storm, it took place from W.N.W. to E.N.E., E. and E.S.E. On the 28th and 29th, the S.E. Trade, east ofthe 60th meridian, and from 18° or 17° S. to 20° S., curved away to the S.W.-ward, towards the storm, forming a S.E. E.S.E., East, N.E., and N. wind. The Northerly winds advanced to the Tropic, as was the ease in the Yarra^s hurricane. After the hurricane of the 24th to the 29th January, the S.E. Trade resumed Ma ordinary state, and prevailed from neai'ly 30° to 6° S. in about 80° E.,— and to 14° S.* on the western side of the Ocean. At noon, on Feb. 6th, it was prevalent, as observed by several vessels, from 21° 45' S. and 104° 2' E. to 4° S. and 78° 3' E.,— and from 29° 7' S. and 39° 41 E. to 13° 2V S. and 58° 45' E.,— blowing in hard gales, with rain, in about 25° S. and 49° E. South of the 30th parallel, between 18° and 42° E., the wind was from N.N.E. and the N. W.-ward, in strong breezes. The N.E. Trade extended from 13° 45' N. and 93° 20' E. to the Equator. Tuesday, thb 7th of Febbuaet.— There was scarcely any change in the winds and weather on this day -, but a N.E.-ly wind had made its api>eiiranopJx> the Digitized by ' SOUTHEEN INDIAN OCEAN. 169 Dorthward of Manriiltts. The positions of the vesssels which experienced it were as foUowB :— * Launcestan ;— 4° SO' S. ; 64° 36' E. ; wind N.N.E. (1) ; cloudy, squally. AiUes .-—13° 6' S. ; 60° 8' B. j wind N.E. by N. (4) ; bar. 30*093 ; ther. 89°. Vanguard :^\4P 36' S.; 68° 14' E.; wind N.N.E. (4); bar. 29-958; ther. 89°.; squally with rain ; threatening appearance. These vessels had a higher temperature than was observed in any other part of the OceaD. With the Vanguard, the wind at 10 p.m. on the 6th " passed from E.S.E. to N.W. with squalls, rain, and a threatening appearance." The Allies, farther north, lost the Trade on the morning of the 6th ; she had then for a few hours light airs from W.N.W., and, in the latter pai*t of the day, a light breeze from N. The foUowiDg observations were taken at Port Louis :— Hour. Barom. Uncor- rected. Att. Ther. Dry Bulb Ther. • Wet Bulb Ther. Wind. Weather. Direc. K^^ 3iA.v. 94 „ 3J P.M. n.. 30000 30-036 29-974 30040 82-0 82-0 81-0 80-0 80-0 81-0 79-0 78-0 740 75-5 74-0 73-5 E..ward I'OO 1-60 East 4-00 j 300 Clear and fine c. p. q. 0. p. q. 0. q. r. To the S.W.-ward of the island, tfie Trade was squally, with rainy weather ; and, in 24° 26' S. and 49° E., the Swallow was lying to with a strong gale from S.E., and heavy rain. From 36° to 39° S., and nearly in 44° E., two vessels had strong breezes from N.E. ; and from 36° to 40° S. and 23° to 32° E. three other vessels had strong to moderate breezes from N.W. We thus see, that while the S.E. Trade reigned at Mauritius and to the southward of it, a Northerly wind was observed to the northward of the island, and also a Northerly wind beyond the polar limits of the Trade. The N.E. Trade prevailed north of the Equator. Wbbnesdat, thb 8th of FfiBBT7ABT.— East of 68° E., the S.E. Trade ex- tended to 10^ S. : it prevailed also at Mauritius and to the southward of it; but, to theN.W.-ward and northward of the island, the wind was from W.S.W.-ward and N.N.W.-ward, as if a cyclone existed, or was being formed, between the S.E. Trade and the N.W. Monsoon. The following are the observations which have led to that inference:— Swallow .— 2o°S. ; 48° 60' E. ; wind E.S.E. (9) ; lying to. Tgrian .—22° S. ; 66° E. ; wind E.S.E. (6, 7) ; cloudy, squally. Jide$ and Aglad:— 19° 67' S; 68° 13' E.; wind Eastward (6); cloudy, squally ^ith nun. Marie Sarah .—17^ 51' S. ; 52° 1' E. ; wind W.S.W. (4) ;^ b|tp.^30i01i le 170 HUBBIOANES OB CY0IiON£S. Vanguard;— 14PS.; 67'' 2ff K; wind NJ7.W. (4); bar. 29*978; ther. 85''; gloomy and squally. Zauncesion ;--6° 27' S. ; 65^ 64' B. j wind N. W. (6) ; cloudy. The following observationa were taken at Port Louis :— Hour. Barora. Uncor- rected. Att. Ther. Bulb Ther. Wet Bulb Ther. Wind. Weather. Dipflc- tiou. Force in lbs. per sq. foot. 3Uu. 9i „ 3;i P.M. 9i „ 29-978 30-050 29-990 30-050 81-5 78-0 820 800 800 76-0 81-0 78-0 76-0 730 75-5 73-5 E.N.E. E.-ward E.N.E. Var. 3-50 200 0-30 0-04 c; fine c. r. c. ; fine o.r. In 29° 23' S. and 35^ 34' E., the Eoyal Arthur had a fresh breeze from S.S.W., with a rising sea; barometer 30*10 ; thermometer 79*^. South of the 30th parallel, the winds were still from the Northward, except with the Good Hope, in 36® 42' S. and 47° 12' E., li^here it was blowing a heavy gale from the S.W. This vessel, on the whole of the 7th, had the wind from N.E.-ward, with the barometer at noon at 29*80. Towards midnight the breeze fell light, and it remained so till about 8 A.K. on the 8Ui, when it passed from N.E. to S.W., the barometer at noon standing at 29*75, bnt won afterwards rising. About 160 miles S.S.E. of the Good Hope, the Marquise, in 38° 43' S. and 47° 43' £., had the wind from N.E., with heavy rain, but an hour or two [afterwards it passed to W.S.W. Farther east, in 37° 44' S. and 69° 14' E., the 7}uUoekgmrum had the wind fresh and strong from N. E.-ward throughout, with cloudy, but fine weather. West of 33^ E. the windi as observed by five vessels, was from N.W.-ward, with fine weather. The N.E. Trade was blowing in light to fresh breeacs, from Calcutta to the Equator. TntrasDAY, i?n» 9th oir pEflBtriBt.— On this day we tavc, generally, the dame winds and weather as yesterday. The S.E. Trade east of 66° B. extended to 10° or 8° S. West of that meridian, however, the Northerly Monsoon prevailed, to at least 14° S. } and there were still signs of the formation of a rotative wind to the north- ward of Mauritius, as will appear from the following observations : — Tartan .—21° 10' S.; 67° 20' B. ; wind B.8.B. (8); squally with rain. Marie Sarah :^W 49' S.j 60° 34' E.j wind W.S.W. (6); bar. 29*930; squally with rain ; heavy cross sea ; midnight, lightning. Vanguard :— 13° 33' S. j 67° 49' B. ; wind N. (2) ; bar. 29*928 ; ther. 86° j fine j at 6 P.M. squally. LauneesUm:^-^ 69^ S.; 64° 46' B. ; wind N.N.E. (4)) bar. 29*86} ther. 84"; cloudy, fine. Black Friar ,-4° M 8. 5 67" 8' K. , wind N. (6) , clotid|.^^^ ^^ GoOgk SOUTHEEN INDIAN OCEAN. The following obwrrationt were taken «t Port Louis :— 171 Hour. Barom. Uncor- rected. Att. Ther, Ther. Wet Bulb Ther. WlKD. Weather. Direc- tion. Force in lbB.per 0q. foot. 3| A.ai. 3i P.H. 9i „ 29-960 29-999 29-950 29-982 79-0 81-0 81-0 79-0 78-0 80-0 79-0 78-0 73-5 74-5 75-0 73-5 E.-ward Calm E.-ward 0-20 0-30 0-00 0-60 0.; fine 0. g. r. 0. g. r. c; fine It appears from these obfiervations that the barometer was going down at Mauritius as well as with the Marie Sarah and Vanguard, The Swallow, in 26° 28' S. and 48° 49" E., had now calms and fine weather | and the Boyal Arthur, in 29° 40^ S. aad 33° 41 B., a light breeze from S.E., with hazy weather $ barometer 30*19 1 thermometer 76°. In 35° to 39° S. and 49° to 62° E., the Good Hope and Marquue had light winds, the former from B., and the latter from W.S.W. The barometer of the Good Hope at noon stood at 29*90, or 0*15 higher than yesterday. West of those two vessels, the Tidlochgorum, in 37° 25' S. and 61° 19' E., had at noon a fresh breeze from the W., with misi^ weather. The N.E. wind, which she had on the previous day, increased, in heavy squalls, to a double-reefed^ topsail breeze, and veered to N. and W. ; and at 2 p.m. on this day (the 9th), she had a moderate breeze from S. It is clear« therefore, that the Gitod Mope, Mdrguise, and Tulloohgorum, ex- perienced the same changes of wind and weather, and that the Southerly current of air, which they got in succession, was travelling to the eastward at the rate of 15° a day, or of about 29 miles per hour# From 19° to 35° E. and from 36° to 40° S., the wbd was from Northward and N.W.-ward; and in 40° 47' S. and 14° 13' E*, the Eobert and Alexander had a moderate breeze from W.S.W. and misty weather* The N.E. Trade still prevailed in the Bay of Bengal; and between it and the S.E. Trade, in 82^ E« and south of the Equator, two vessels had light airs and calms* Friday, thb 10th op Febeitaby.-— At noon on this day, the N.E. Trade apparently extended from 11° N. to 14° S., as will be seen from the following vessels:— JBentinci.-^ir^.; 84°56'E.5 windE.N.E. (2); fine, Meteor ;~6° 6' N ; 82° 6' E. ; wmd N.N.E. (4) ; clear. Martha /— 4° 9' S ; 81° 27' E. j wind Northerly (2) j fine. Zaunceston .•—4° 22' Sj 68° 41' B. j wind N.N.E. (2, 5) ; squally. Black Friar t-^"" 29' S.| 66° 32' B.j wind N. (2); bar. 29942; ther. 86°; fine. BoBolie .—6^ 23' S. ; 78° 60' E. ; wind Northerly (2) ; cloudy. Narwhal ;— 7° 44' S. ; 78° 53' E. ; wind N JtJ.E. (2) ; fine* St. Bernard :'^12P 57' S.; 71^ 37' E.; wind KN.E. (6); bar. 30040; squally ^''^^^^' Digitized by L^OOgle 172 HURRICANES OR CYCLONES. -13° 9' S.; 57° 12' K; wind N.N.E. (6); bar. 29'978; then 85° Vanguard .- squally. In 17° S. and 60P 57' E., the Marie Sarah had fresh breezes from W.S.W. to W., with heavy rain, and the barometer at 29-78. At midnight she had heavy rain, lightning, and light airs from W.S.W. The Chillingham, in 19° 17' S. and 56° 6' E., had a strong gale from E. to N.E., with a wild appearance, and rainy weather. The following observations were taken at Port Lonis :— Hour. Barom. Uncor- rected. Att. Ther. Buib Ther. Wind. Weather. Wet ; i Force in lbs. per sq. foot. 3^ JI.M. 9t „ 3i P.M. 9j If 29-928 29-982 29.950 29-992 790 79-5 78 770 77-5 79-0 760 760 74-0 N.E. 73-5 ,E..wrd. 73-0 N.E..wrd. 72-5 E.N.E. 200 200 0-30 2-00 0. q. r. 0. r. 0. r. c; fine The S.E. Ti-ade extended towards 10° S. in 95° E. It prevailed also to the east- ward and southward of Mauritius, as shown by the following vessels :— Flatvjorth .—17° 50' S. ; 64° 30^ E. ; wind S.E. (4) ; fine. Jtadnagore .—18° 17' S. ; 65° 6' E. ; wind E. by S. ; bar. 30-010; ther. 84°. Mana .—19° 23' S. ; 63° 54' E. ; wind E. by S. (5) ; clear. Lord of ike Isles .—22° 51' S. j 55° 22' E. ; wind S.E. (6) j squally with rain. In 26° 10' S. and 49° 7' E., the Swallow had calm and fine weather; but in the afternoon a strong breeze sprang up from S.E. These observations would lead us to infer that there was a locality of minimum atmospheric pressure to the north-westward of Mauritius, and that the ac|jaoent air was flowing either towards it or around it. From 35° to 38° S. and from 49° to 62° E., the Good Hope, Marquise, and Tut- lochgorum, had still Southerly winds. Further west, the winds and weather were as follows :-— Soyal Arthur .—30° 15' S. ; 30° 33' E. ; wind B. by S. (4) ; bar. 30-201 ; ther. 82°; fine. Frince :— 36° 50' S. ; 36 19' E. ; wind N.N.E. (5) ; clear. cTfl^aioar.— 37°39'S.; 33° E.; wind E.N.E. (3) ; clear. Jm.— 39°45'S.; 29°28'E.; wind E.N.E. (5); clear. Jeanne de Montfort .—40° 5' S. ; 20^ 59' E. ; wind N.N.E. (5) ; fine. Cc»tettr.— 37° 28' S.; 18° 12' E.; wind S. (2); bar. 30314; ther. 68°; clear. BoheH and Alexander, ~4€P 44! S.; 15° 26' E.; wind S. by W. (3); cloudy, fine. Louis Gfawattar.— 37°26'S.; 14° 37' E.; wind N.W. (2); fine. It would appear from these observations that a second system of Southerly winds was setting in to the westward of the NoHherly winds in the above Table. From 34° to 37° S. and from 104° to 117° E., the following winds and weather were experienced by four vessels : — Digitized by LjOOQIC SOUTHERN INDIAN OCEAN. 173 Bominich Daly ;— 34°26' S. ; 104o 27' E. ; wind S.W. (8) ; heavy sea. Bon Accord .—36^ 43' S. ; 113° 4! E. ; wind N.W. (9) ; bar. 2980 ; cloudy. Frince af the &«:— 36° 33' S.; 112° 69' E.; wind W.N.W. (6); cloudy, flqnally. Zoe .—36° S. ; 116° 47' E. ; wind W.N.W. (8) ; dondy, squally. The wind wiih the Dominiek Daly veered on the previous day from N.W. to W. and S.W., and it veered with the other vessels in the same way, but at a later period. Satubdat, thb 11th of Fbbbuart. — The N.E. Trade extended on this day to about 4° S. and 70° E., and, farther west, appai^ently to 13° S. At the same time, the S.E. Trade prevailed from about 27° S. and 96° E. to 10° or 8°S. and 78° to 07^ E.— and between it and the N.E. Trade there were light aira and calms. Over all those parts of the Ocean the weather was fine, and the wind generally light. But from 48° to 64° E. the weather had a different character ; and there was evi- dently a rotatory movement of the atmosphere round a point to the W.N.W.-ward of Mauritius. The following Table shows the wind^, positions. Sic, of the vessels between thoee meridians :-« MarjuUe .—-36° 52' S. ; 63° 9' E. ; wind variable (6) ; fine. Good Mope :^B4PS'S.; 50^47' E.; wind S.E. (6); bar. 3027; clear. TuUochgorum .—32° 23' S. ; 61° V E. ; wind S.E. (6) j cloudy, hazy with rain, SwaUofo .—26° 40' S. ; 48° 57' E. ; wind S.E. (5). Lord of the Isle^ :^2i° 4&' S.; 62° 21'E.j wind S.E. (5)j bar. 29-5415 down topgallant yards. (Str.) Tkunder:^24P 6' S.; 67° 25' E.; wind E. (9); bar. 29944; cloudy, hazy with drizzling rain. Marie SaroA.— 17° 30' S.; 61° 11' E.; wind S.W. (6); bar. 2992; cloudy, squally ; heavy ci'oss sea. Vanguard :^12P 39' S.; 57° 62' E.; wind N.N.E. to N. (2); bar. 29 978; ther. 86°; fine. Cili7«ii^Aa« ;— 19° 17' S. ; 66°30'E.; wind N.E. (9); cloudy, squally with iwn. Radnagore :'-l^ 61' S.; 63° 34' E.; wind B. by S. to E.; bar. 3001; ther. 86°. Flaiworih .—19° 4' S. ; 62° 34' E. ; wind S.E. to E. by S. (4) ; cloudy. Mona .—19° 39' S. ; 62^ 22' E. ; wind E. (5) ; fine. The following observations were taken at Port Louis : — Hour. Baroro. Uncor- rected. Att. Ther. BuTb Ther. Wet Bulb Ther. Wind. Weather. Direc- tion. Force in lbs. per sq. foot. 3tA.M. 1 3| P.M. 29-914 29-968 29-910 29-942 780 81-0 82-0 800 770 800 79-5 790 73-5 75-5 75-5 760 E.N.E. N.E. N.E.-waixl N.E. 2-00 2-50 1-60 0-50 0.; fine. 0. g. p. q. 0. p. q. o.g.. 'igiTi2&(i 174 HURRICANES OR CYCLONEfiL We Bee thai the barometer was still falling, though there was little difference in the direction and foroe of the wind. It would appear that the wind blew with greatest force in a line drawn from the Thunder to the Chillingham, With the former vessel, the gale, in the afternoon, increased to a hurricane from S. by S. <' At 4 P.M., heavy gales with a tremendous confused sea making a complete sweep over the shipi in fore-staysail (bar. 29*97 Index Error,— '086). At 6, blowing a complete hurricane, with thick drizzling rain at times, iui. ; a fearful sea running and making a complete sweep over the decks. At 6*30, shipped two very heavy seas forward ; stove in fore skylight, port bow life-boat, &c. Midnight, hurri- cane still blowing with terrific violence ; barometer 29'95." It is plain that the wind was not blowing in a circle, at least at some distance from the centre ; for we have positive proof that the centre did not bear either N. or N. by E. of the Thunder, when that vessel had the wind from E. The centre must have been between the Chillingham and the Marie Sarah, in about 19° S. and 53° 45' E. ; and if the Thunder had run to the westward, she would have got into worse weather. It is impossible, therefore, to avoid the conclusion, that the storm was a contest between a Northerly and a Southerly stream of air. The Northerly winds appear to press against the Trade, deflecting it to E.N.E., on the eastern side of the storm ; and the Trade, farther west, as if meeting with less resistance there, sweeps round on the western side of the storm, forming Southerly and S.W.-ly winds. The direction of the wind with the Vanguard, Mona, and Tullochgorum, beyond the outer circles of the storm, was towards the centre. Prom 37° to 41° S. and from 16° to 38° E., we have the two counter-winds which were observed yesterday, as will be seen from the following statements : — Frince .—37° m S. ; 38° 62' E. ; wind E. (6) ; clear. Jalawar .—38° 46' S. ; 36° T E. j wind N. by E. (5) j clear. Isis :-^^4(f 17' S. ; 83° 7' E. ; wind E.N.E. (3) ; clear. Jeanne de Montfort .—^9° 56' S. ; 21° 39' E. ; wind N.N.E. (2) ; fine. Bohert and Alexander .—-40° 9' S. ; 19° 2(y E.j wind S.E. (2) ; fine. Cbite«r .— 37° 9' S. ; 19° 31' E.; wind S. (2) ; bar. 30-214; ther. 68°; clear, Louis Gaveaux .—37° 44' S. ; 16° 29' E. ; wind N. (2) ; fine. As a general rule, these N.E.-ly winds always appear when a S.E.-ly wind prevails to the N.E.-ward, as on the present occasion. The Louis Gaveaux had the wind at noon from N., but it veered to N.W., and at 4 p.m. was from S.W. Between 34° and 37° S., and between 104*' and 115° E., the Bominich Daly, Bon Accord, and Zoe, had the wind from W. by N. to N.W. Sunday, the 12th op Fbbeuabt.— In the northern part of the Ocean we find the N.E. Trade stretching to 10° S:, as observed by the following vessels :— ^(feZairfe.— 13°32'N.3 87910'E.; wind Northerly (2) ; bar. 30-012; ther. 82^; clear. Bentinck:^!^ 66' N. ; 83° 29' E. ; wind E.N.E. (2) ; sultry. Lafayette :— 4° 11' N. ; 80° 38' E. ; wind N.E. (2) ; fine, G^flwwn^r^.— 3°10'S.; 80° 9' E.j wind N. by E. (2); cloudy, with passing showers. ^^^i^ Digitized by VjOOQIC SOUTHERN INDIAN OCEAN. 175 Latmeefion .*-«4'' 16' S.; 6^ 66' E. ; wind N.W. (5) ; sqnaUy with rain. Martka -—4^ 36' S. > 81° 27' B. j wind N.W. (1) ; fine. Black Friar .•— 6° 21' S. j 65^ f^ E. ; wind N.N.W. to N. (2) j bar, 29942 ; ther. 83^; fine. Bo9alie s^r 25' 8. ; 80^ 2(y E. ; wind N.E. j cloudy. Narwhal .—9^ 28' S. ; 77^ 64' B. ; wind N by B. (2) j bar. 30026 j ther. 82° ; fine. To the sonthwaid and eastward of these veeeelB the S.E. Trade prevailed. From 10° S. to beyond 30° S., and from 48° to 63° B., there was at noon a vast whirlwind, as the following observations show : — Marqui96 .—84° 42^8.; 63° 23' B. ; wind B.S.B. (6) \ cloudy ; a swell on. QoodHope:^^:2f\4lB,i 61° 21' B.| wind B.S.B. (4); bar. 30*22; dear; at 5 P.M. double-reefed fore-topsail. TuUoehgorum .—29° 62' 8. ; 60P 6' E. ; wind B. (6) ; cloudy. Swdlow .—26° 8. ; 61° 30' E. ; wind 8.B. (9) , cloudy. Lord of the Isles ."^U"" 22' 8.; 61° 27' E.; wind 8.B. (9), bar. 29-621; squally, rain. Marie Sarah ;— 17° 16' 8. ; 60° 19' B. ; wind S.W. (7) ; bar. 30-00 ; heavy cross Bea; midnight, lightning. (Sir.) igb««.— 9° 46' 8.; 66° 38' B.; wind W. to W.8.W. (2) ; bar. 3003; fine ; at 4 A.u. ther. 86°. Badnaffore .-—19° 32' 8. ; 61° 24' B. ; wind E.N.E. (4); bar. 29*93; ther. 82°; gloomy; a short sea firom westward. Flatworih .—19° 4T 8. ; 60° 23' E. ; wind E.N.B. (4) ; squaUy, rainy. Mona :— 19° 40' 8. ; 60° 16' B. ; wind N.E. (6) ; squally, rainy. Mallard:--!^ 69' 8.; 69° 18' B.j wind N.N.E. (2); bar. 29*946; squally, ndn ; windy appearance. Ckillingham ;-21° 26' 8. ; 56^ 6' B. ; wind N.N.B. (8) ; squally, rain. (Str.) Sunder ;— 23° 4* 8. ; 67° 36' E. ; wind B. (10) j bar. 29-874 ; drizzling nun, squaUy. Observations taken at Fort Louis :— Barom. Uncor- rected. Att. Ther. Dry Bulb Ther. Wet Bulb Ther. WlHl). Weather. Hour, Direc- tion. Force in lbs. per sq. foot. 1 31p.m. 29*894 29-948 29-900 29-942 79-6 81-6 84-0 81-6 78-0 80-0 82-6 800 76-6 760 77'0 760 N.N.B. N.-ward N.W. Calm 0-80 0-40 0-40 0-00 0. r. 0. ; fine 0.; fine fine ; light haze The gale blew with greatest violence from N.N.E., E., and 8.B., to the southward of &e island. But though the wind had decreased at Port Louis, the barometer *tood somewhat lower than on the previous day. In the morning the Thunder had still a hurricane from E., with a fearful heavy tea. At 2 ▲•u. ship bclining to fall off; set dose-reefed jigitized S^^o^f^ 176 HURRICANES OR CYCLONES. terrifio squalls, with thick rain (bar. 29*91) ; ship labouring heavily and straining fearfully. At 8, still blowing a complete hurricane, with a cross confused moun- tainous sea ; tacked ship to eastward, and took in the fore mizen topsail. Noon, less wind, but terrific squalls and thick drizzling rain ; a tremendous sea running. Lat. (D. R.) 23° 44' S.; Long. (D. R.) 67° 36' E. :—" p.m.— Gale still blowing with tremendous force ; thick drizzling rain, with a high cross sea, and breaking heavily over the ship. At 4, a sea struck the ship on the port bow, starting bulwarks, &c. ; wind N.E. ; barometer 29*93. At 8, longer intervals between the squalls ; a terrific sea. Midnight, gale abating; dense masses of cloud breaking away in patches ; stars visible for a few moments, but terrific squalls — and rain at times." The centi-e of the storm did not bear north of tbe Thunder at noon ; and therefore the wind with her was not moving in a circle, if she had it from E. Fi-om the winds and positions of the Marie Sarah and ChiUingkam, and the weather at Port Louis, we infer that tbe centre was in 20° ^ S. and 53° E. Hence the storm travelled, since the previous noon, S. 42° 60' W. 122 miles, or at the rate of about 6 miles per hour. The observations show that the western side of the cyclone was formed by the S.E. Trade, which curved from S.E. to S. and S.W., over a great extent in latitude, giving the storm, on that side of it, an elliptical form. It would appear, also, that the N.W. Monsoon formed the eastern side, nearly to the Tropic, where the S.E. Trade, deflected to E., blew with great violence. We should thus have the air moving spirally. With regard to the extent of the cyclone, its diameter in latitude was about 1400 miles, and in longitude about 800 miles, the force of the wind ranging from light breezes to at least a whole gale. It will be seen from the following logs that, south and west of the S.E.-ly wind of the cyclone, four vessels were experiencing N.E.-Iy winds, while, at some distance to the west of them, the wind was southerly : — FHnce ;-38° 29' S. ; 41° 58' E. j wind N.E. (5) ; cloudy. Jalawar ;— 38° 41' S. ; 39° E. ; wind N.E. (4) ; fine. Jw.— 40° 28' S. ; 35° 31' E. ; wind N.E. (4) ; squally, rain. 8. G. Glover .-—41° 26' S. ; 48° 35' E. ; wind N.E. (4) ; cloudy, hazy. Jeanne de Montfbrt .--38° 52' S. ; 26° 30' E. ; wind S.E. (2) ; fine. Centaur ;— 37° 13' S. ; 20° 68' E. ; wind Southerly (1) ; bar. 80*214 ; ther. 68° ; clear. Boberi and Alexander ;— 39° 49' S. ; 19° 14' E. ; wind N.W. (5) ; cloudy ; at 4 P.M. wind W.S.W. Louis Gaveaux .—37° 4' S. ; 19° 8' E. ; wind S.S.W. (2) ; fine. Since noon on the 11th, the Southerly winds had travelled about six d^rees to the eastward. From 33° to 40P S., and from 102° to 119° E., the Dominick Daly, Bon Accord, Zoe, Prince qfthe Seas, and Fidus, had the wind from the S.S.W.-ward. Monday, the 13th of Fjsbsuasy.— At noon, on this day, the N.E. Trade ex- tended to 11° or 12° S. in 78° E., appearing in the Southern Hemisphere as the N.W. Monsoon. This will be seen from the following Table :" Bentinck .—14° 21' N. ; 83° 18' E. ; wind N.E. (4) ; clear, sultry. ^rfWatrfer.— 11°60'N.; 86°E.5 wind N. (4); bar. 29-962; ther. 82°; fine. Digitized by L^OOQ IC SOUTHERN INDIAN OCEAN. 177 LcfayeiU:^V 39^ K; 79^ 10" K; wind N.E. (5); clear, bat at times pasBing eloads. Jftrfwr.-— r 26' N.; 79° 25' E.; wind N. by E. (4); bar. 29'962; cloudy, iqnally. Lawnceaion .--^ 36' S. ; 71° 46' E. ; wind N.N. W. (5) ; squally. G^rowflwr*.— 5°6' S. ; 80° 25' E. ; wind N. by E. ; doudy, rain. Martha .—6° 24' S. ; 81° 16' E. ; wind Northerly (1) ; sqaally ; midnight squally, rain with thonder and lightning. Bosalie .-—8° 37' S. ; 78° 5' E. ; wind N. W.-ly (2) ; sqaally. Black Friar :'-9P 43' S.; 68° 37' B.; wind N.W. (4); bar. 29-962; ther. 88°; squally, nun. Narwhal ."-IV 19' S. ; 77° 38' E.; wind N.W. (6); bar. 29976; ther. 83°; squally, rain. Prom 26° to 16° S. and from 91° to 87° E., three vessels had the S.E. Trade and fine weather. The winds and weather from 10° to 37° S. and from 49° to 60° E., given below, show that the cyclone still existed in that quarter :— Jfar^iw.— .36°22'S.; 54°35'E.; wind E.S.E. (6); fine. Good Mope ;— 35° 55' S. ; 51°30' E. ; wind E.S.E. (8) ; bar. 2997 ; squally. Swallow .—25° S. ; 48 E. ; wind S. (9) ; lying to. Lord of the Isles ;— 24° 19' S. ; 49° 58' E. ; wind S. to S.W. (9) ; bar. 30091; ther. 77° ; clear. Marie SaraA .--17° 16' S.; 50PirE.; wind W.S.W. (1); bar. 30'01; fine. (Str.) JEmeu.'—ldP 62' S.; 66° 24^ E.; wind W.S.W. (4); bar. 2998; ther. 82° at 4 A.]f. ; cloudy, passing showers. Vanguard :-lV 26' S,; 59°24'E.; wind W. (4); bar. 29978; ther. 86°; fine. Badnagore .--.19° 32' 8. ; 60° 5' E. ; wind Easterly (1) ; bar. 29-93 ; ther. 84°. -Wiwia;— 19°40'S.; 58°45'E.; wind EN.E. (5) ; cloudy, rain. if«ri«a/-rf.'—Oflf Round Island; wind E.N.E. (1) ; fine. Chillingham :— 21° 46' S. ; 58° 4' E. ; wind E.N.E. (8) ; finer. (Str.) TAttn^dr;— 23° 7'S.; 57° 27' E.; wind E.N.E.; bar. 29-96; ther. 80°; cloady,-*a heavy sea on. TuUo€hgorum:-'2/^m^,', 59°38'E.; wind E. (5); bar. 29-874; clear. The following observations were made at Port Louis :— Hour. 3iA.X. »^ „ 3|P.M. Barom. Uncor- rected. 29-910 29-950 29-920 29-940 Att. Ther. Di-y Wet Bulb Bulb Ther. Ther. Wind. Direo* tion. Force in lbs. per sq. foot. Weather. 810 82-6 850 820 78-0 ! 76-0 810 j 76-5 830 1 77-5 81-0 i 76-5 Calm N.-ly N.W. 0-00 c; fine 0-30 0*30 i 0.; fine 0-20 b.c.;fine From these observations we infer that the centre at noon was in about 26° 15' i and 52° E., — to the eastward of the Lord of the Isles and Swallow. . ^^^ i ^ Jigitized by VJiJwy IV^ 178 HURRICANES OR CYCLONES. During the preceding 24 hours, therefore, the fttorm travelled S. 10^ 57' W. 290 miles, or at the hourly rate of 11'25 miles. The directions of the wind, as given in the log-hooks, do not show that the gale was circular at a distance from the centre. We have, as yesterday, the Southerly winds gently curving over many degrees of latitude, and, in ahout IP S., apparently veering sharply to W., and meeting the N.W. Monsoon, which forms the eastern side of the storm, the N.E. wind S.S.W. (6) j fine. Bohert and Alexander .—89° 17' S. ; 26° E. j wind S.S.E. (4) ; clear,— a heavy sea on. Cwi^aiM-.— 38° S.; 22° E.; wind S.S.W. (5); har. 80164; ther. 66° 5 cloudy, drizzling rain. At some distance to the northward of the Molert and Alexander the wind was from N.W. at noon, and then from W.8.W. The Southerly wind was still moving laterally to the eastward. In 30° to 40P S. and from 101° to 118° E. the wind, as yesterday, was from the Southward, and appeared to he the S.E. Trade. TuBSDAT, THB 14th OF Pebbitiet.— Prom noon on the 13th to noon on this day, the N.W. Monsoon advanced still farther to the southward, being now at, if not beyond, the Tropic, as will be seen from the following logs :— Napoleon .—16° 3' N. ; 89° E. ; wind N.E. (2) ; bar. 29-96 ; fine. Adelaide .—9° 60' N. ; 85° 63' E. ; wind N. (6) ; bar. 29-912 ; ther. 83 ; dear. Metetyr .•— 0^6' 8. ; 78° 33' E. ; wind N.E. (2) ; bar. 29961; fine. Lafayette : 0° 16' S. ; 81° 11' E. ; wind E.N.E. (6) ; a.m. thunder and lightning ; noon, cloudy. Launeesion :— 3° 27' S. ; 73° 28' E. ; wind N.N.W. (5) ; squally, rain. Jlfar^^a;— 6°48'S.; 81° 16' E. ; wind N.W. (2); cloudy, squally with rain ; noon, fine. Blach Friar :^^ 67' S. ; 68° 67' E. ; wind N.W.-ly (1, 2) ; bar. 29*862 ; ther. 84° ; cloudy, squally appearance. JRoealie .—10° 10' S. ; 78° 6' E. ; wind W. ; squally. Narwhal :^17P 17'S.j 76^ 69' E.; wind N.W. (6); bar. 29'936; ther. 8y>5 squally, with rain ; noon, fine. 8i. Bernard .—14° 47' S. j 69° 49' B. ; wind N.W. by W. (2) ; bar. 29*74 ; doudj, squally appearance. Joseph Buehhy .—16° 42' S. ; 86° 27' E. ; wind E. by N. (2) ; har. 29*97 ; fine. Mandanni-^IV* 62' S.$ 86° 48' E.; wind N. by E. (6); squally, threatening appearance. Digitized by L^OOglC SOUTHERN INDIAN OCEAN. 179 Emily Smith :-^19P 66' S. ; 7^ 18' E.; wind W.N.W. (2) ; clouay. ChilUngham ;— 21^' 47' S. ; 69"" 9' E. t wind N.E. (5) ; fine. Jemmy .—24° 43' S. j 88° 6' E. ; wind E.N.E. ; cloudy. TuUochgomm ;— 24° 56' S. \ 69° IC E. j wind N.E. (4) j cloudy, fine. The Monsoon seems to have been a continuation of the N.E. Trade. South of the Monsoon we have the S.E. Trade, or at all events a S.E.-ly wind ; and the vessels next the Monsoon, as the Jemmy, Tullochgorum, and ChilUngham^ have the wind from N.E.-ward, as if the S.E. Trade were being deflected. Several degrees to the S. W.»ward of the two last-named vessels, there were strong gales from the Southward, the S.E. Trade apparently still curving round on the western aide of the storm. The winds and positions of those vessels were as follows :— Good JZbptf.— 30°24'S.; 51° 13' E.j wind E.S.E.(10)5 bar. 29-77; squally » tain. Lord of the Isles .•—25° 44' S. ; 50° 32' E. ; wind W.S.W. (9) ; squally, rain. Swallow .-—25° S. ; 48° SC E. 5 wind S. (9) ; squally, rain ; lying to. (Str.) :Emeu ;— 17° 33' S. ; 67° 3' E. ; wind S. (2) ; bar. 29'90; fine. Vanguard:--'^ 53' S.; 60° 44' B.; wind S.W. (5); bar. 29'878; ther. 84°; overcast; squally. It would appear from these observations that the S.E. Trade extended (Vom at least 31° S. to 10^ S., becoming Southerly and S.W.*ly as it approached the Equator ; and comparing the winds in the above Table with those of the Black Friar, St. Bernard, ChilUngham, s^nd Tullochgorum, vreohtsan a Rgwce resembling an elongated ellipse, the centre of the storm being in front, where the Monsoon and Trade were in conflict. The observations taken at Port Louis were as follows :— Hour. Barom. Uncor- rected. Att. Ther. Bili^ Ther. Wet Bulb Ther. Wind. Weather. Direc- tion. Force in Ibs.per sq. foot. 3iP.]f. 9j „ 29-858 29-920 29-880 29-936 80-0 82-0 86-0 82-0 79-0 81-0 84-0 80-0 76-5 76-0 77-5 75-6 S.*ward Calm W.N.W. Calm 004 0-00 0-30 0-00 c.p. c; fine b. c. Clear The barometer had now reached its minimum, although the weather had improved. From the winds and positions of the Good Hope and Zord of the Itles (the vessels which were experiencing the sirengtii of the storm) we infer that the centre at noon was in 27° 48' S. and 52° E. Henee the storm travelled, since the previous noon, S. 153 miles. The following observations will show that the extra-tropical counter •windif still existed:— PfMw /— 38° 29' S. ; 46°16' B. ; wind E. to N.E. (2, 4) j fine. Jalawar ;— 88° 26' S. ; 44° E. ; wind N.E. by N. (2) ; fine. ' ^ \ / / Digitized by ^ 172 /Google 180 HURRICANES OR CYCLONES. 7m .•—39° 44' S. ; 39*' 56' E. ; ^ind N. by E. (3) ; fine. Jeanne de Montfort .•—37'^ 40^ S. ; 31° 7' E. ; wind S.W. (5) ; cloudy. Bobert and Alexander .•—37° 25' S. ; 25° 21' E, ; wind S.E. (4) ; dondy, fine. Centaur .--37° 10' S. ; 24° 42' E. ; wind S.S.E. (5) ; bar. 30-314; cloudy, squally. LouU aaveaiix:^^^ S. ; 24° 19' E. ; wind S.W. to S. (6) ; cloudy, fine. Jtdiei Er8Jcine:-^^r 4A' S.; 16° 46' E. ; wind S.S.E. (4); bar. 30102; ther. 65°; fine. The Royal Arthur , about eight miles S.W. by S. of Cape St. Francis, had a fresh breeze from W.N.W., with fine weather, the barometer standing at 29*97, and the thermometer at 74°. Four vessels from 37° to 29° S. and from 114° to 99° E. had Southerly and S.E.-ly winds, with fine weather. WsDNSSDAT, THE 15th OF FBBBUiAY. — It would appear that at noon of thi^ day the N.W. Monsoon still extended to the Tropic, and that it was, apparently, a continuation of the N.E. Trade ; but for greater satisfaction the positions, (&o., of the vessels are given below : — Bentinck:—!^ 65' N. ; 84° E. ; wind N.E. (2) ; fine. Napoleon :— 14° 31' N. ; 88° 28' E. ; wind E. (3) ; bar. 30016; fine. Vauhan :— 9° 29' N. ; 86° 59' E. ; wind E. (6) ; cloudy. Adelaide ;-^BP 9^ N.; 86° E.; wind NJi.E, (6); bar. 29962; ther. 83°; cloudy, fine. Meteor:— r 23' S. ; 78° 56' E. ; wind N.W. (1) ; bar. 29961 ; sultry. Lafayette .-—2° 7' S. ; 81° 69' E. ; wind Northerly (1) ; cloudy. LaunceHon .•—3° 11' S. ; 74° 48' E. ; wind N.E. to N. (5) ; cloudy. Grassmere ;— 6° S. ; 80° 3^ E. ; wind N. by E. (2) ; cloudy. Martha ;— 8° 45' S. ; 80° 53' E. ; wind Westerly (3, 6) ; cloudy. Bosalie .—11° 38' S. ; 78° 6' E. ; wind N.W. ; squally. Black Friar:— W 21' S. ; 69° 34' E. ; wind N.W. ; bar. 29942 ; ther. 83° ; fine. iVarwAaZ ;— 13° 12' S.; 76° 7' E.; wind N.N.W. (4); bai-. 29-946 ; ther. 82^; cloudy. St, Bernard :^\b'' 34' S. ; 68° 47' E.; wind N.W. by W. (6) ; bar. 29-86; ther. 82° ; squally, rain. Emily Smith .—20° 47' S. ; 76° 27' E. ; wind W.N.W. (2). Mandarin .—20° 22' S. ; 83° 68' E. ; wind N.W. (5) ; finer. CA»7««^Mw.— 23°55'S.; 60°22'E.; wind E.i^.E. (4) ; fine. Tullochgorum .—24° 26' S. ; 59° 7' E. ; wind N.N.B. (2) ; clear. The following observations were made at Port Louis :— Hour. Barom. Uncor- rected. Att. Ther. bJS> Ther. Wet Bulb Ther. WiSD. Weather. Direc- tion. Force in lbs. per sq. foot. ^ A.M. 9? a 3i P.M. 9? », 29'876 29-940 29-900 29-970 79-0 83 6 86-0 81-0 77-0 82-0 860 790 72-6 75-6 780 74-0 Calm ! 0-00 N.E..ward 1 020 N.W. 0-30 Calm ! 0-00 1 b.; fine b. c. ; fine » 91 b.; fine SOUTHERN INDIAN OCEAN. 181 The winds and weather experienced by the Swallow, Lord of the Isles, and Cfood Hope, at noon on this day, were as follows :— * SmaUow /— 24° 4(y S. ; 48° 2(y B. ; wind S.W. (5) ; squally. Lord qftHe Isles .-—26^ 32' S. ; 60P 31' E. ; wind W. (5) ; cloudy, squally. Goorfflbiw;—28°5'S.; 62°19'B.j wind W.N.W. (9) j bar. 29-67; cloudy, squally. Since noon on the 14th the wind with the Swallow veered from S. to S.W. ; with the Lwd of the Isles £rom W.8.W. to W. ; and with the Good Hope from S.E. to W JJ.W., through the S. The log of the Good Hope states that at 4 p.k. on the 14th the wind (then at S.) began to veer to the Westward at the rate of one point per hour. " At 6, steady gale; barometer 29*53. At sunset, observed all the sky of a brick-red appearance. Midnight, heavy gales and hard squalls." On this day (the 15th) the gale continued with her till 4 p.m., when it began to moderate. The centre of the storm was probably in 28° 5(y S. and 52° E., which gives for the course and rate, since the previous noon, S. 62 miles. It does not appear that the greater diameter of the cyclone exceeded 1000 miles. From 37° to 2r 8., and from 93° to 116° E., five vessels had the wind still from the S.£.-ward, with fine weather. These S.E.-ly winds were, apparently, the Trade- wind which had been driven back by the N. W. Monsoon, the line or belt of variables being south of the Tropic. The rotatory gale on the western side of the ocean seems to have been still between the Trade and Monsoon; for the Marquise, in 36° S. and 56° 48' E., had a light breeze from S.E., while to the N.E.-ward of the storm the winds were Northerly. There is reason to think also that the wind forming the western side of the gale extended as a S.W.-ly current to 8° S. and 62° 13' E., where the Vanguard had a fresh breeze from S.W. An inspection of the following logs will show that the extra-tropical counter^ winds still prevailed, and that they had, since noon on the 14th, travelled 6 or 7 degrees to the eastward : — PHnce .--38° S. ; 47° 35' E. ; wind N.E. (2) ; fine. Jalawar :— ^8° 16' S, ; 46° 15' E. ; windN.W. (4) ; cloudy, misty. Itis .•—38° 5a S. ; 42° 47' E. ; wind S. by W. (4) ; cloudy, passing showers. Jeanne de MonifoH .•—36° 55' S. ; 33° 27' E. ; wind S.S.B. (5) ; cloudy, rain. Cfeutenr.-— 36° 15' S.; 26° 39'E.; wind S.S.E. (5); bar. 30264; ther. 78<'; cloudy. L(m\s Gaveaux ;— 35° 39^ S. ; 26° 14' S. ; wind S.S.B. (5) ; fine. Juliet Urskine ."-^ 26' S.; 18°11'E.; wind S.S.E. (6); bar. 29-952; ther. 7(f ; heavy sea. In the night of the 14th to the 15th, the wind with the Isis passed from N. by E. to S. by W., but whether it veered or shifted is not stated. The Bobert and Alexander, in 89° 18' S., and 26° 53' E., had a fresh breeze from the N.B. by E., with fine weather ; so that, if no error has been committed in recording the direction of the wind, it is evident that the S.E.-ly winds did not prcvaU ftrther south than the 38th or 39tK parallel, at least in 27° E. ; and this would lead us to suppose that the Southerly winds were the polar winds malcing tUr appearance at ^e surface, while the N.B.-ly wind was the equatorial curreut. Digitized by LjOOQIC 182 HUKEICANES OR CYCLONES. Thubsdat, thb 16th of FBBBnABT.<— The N.W. Monsoon was still extending as far south as the Tropic, bnt becoming light and unsteady, as will be seen from the following observations :— J«t'& Semidiameter at the top ; to the result add the time of High Water at Full and Change at the given place, taken from the following list of places ; the sum will bo the time of high water on the afternoon of the given day. Should, however, this sum exceed I2h. 24m., or 24h. 49m., subtract one or other of those times, as necessary, from it, and the remainder will be the approximate time of high water on the afternoon of the given day. Corrections to be applied to the time of the MooiCs meridian passage in finding the Time of High Water. )'8 Mer. Pass. Ya Semidiameter. )*8 Mer. Pass. )'s Mer. Pan. )*s Semidiameter. Vs Mer. Pass. 14' 80" 16' 80'* 16' 80" 14' 30* 16' 80" 16' 30" H. X. H. K. H. x. H. X. H. X. H. X. H. X. H. X. H. X. R. X. -0 4 +0 6 12 6 -0 66 -1 2 -1 12 18 80 -0 10 ^0 8 -0 6 12 80 6 80 -0 46 -0 61 -0 68 18 30 1 -0 17 -0 16 -0 15 18 7 -0 32 -0 84 -0 37 19 1 80 -0 24 -0 25 -0 26 18 80 7 80 -0 17 -0 16 -0 14 19 SO 2 -0 81 -0 84 -0 36 14 8 -0 1 +0 8+0 9 20 2 SO -0 88 -0 41 -0 46 14 80 8 30 + 8 + 16 +0 24 20 30 8 -0 44 -0 49 ~0 65 15 9 + 14 + 21 +0 82 21 8 80 -0 60 -0 66 ^1 4 16 80 9 30 +0 16 +0 24 :+0 86 21 30 4 -0 65 -1 2 -1 12 16 10 + 15 +0 23 +0 34 22 4 80 -0 68 -1 6 -1 16 16 80 10 30 + 12 +0 19 +0 29 22 30 5 -1 -1 8 -1 19 17 11 + 7 + 14 +0 23 23 6 80 -0 69 -1 7 -1 18 17 80 11 80 + 2 + 7 +0 16 23 SO 6. -0 66 -1 2 -1 12 18 12 -0 4 ,+0 1+0 6 24 JEr.—Find the time of High Water at Port Philip Entrance, April 2nd, 1868. H. M. H. 8 19 Bronght forward . . 8 - 22 H.W. at F. and C. p. 201 -f 1 67 "" )*s Mer. Pass, at Greenwich Cor. for Long. 146° E. H. 6 )'s Mer. Pass, at Port Philip . 7 Cor. for Table above for 8h. and ) i g H.W. at Prt. Philip, Apr.2nd . 9 36 p.m. _^ „ -24 )*8 Semid. 16' 17" . . . .{"*"" H.W. at Pit. Philip, Apr. 2nd 9 12 a.m. 8 6 The following table (p. 193) explains itself :— It gives the Time of High Water on Full and Change Days at the various places in the Indian Ocean, China Seas Australia, Tasmania, and New Zealand; together with the Rise of the Tide at Springs and Neaps:— ^.^^^^^, by L:-OOgle . Digitized bv TIBES. 198 Place. High Water, Full and Change. Abd-nl Kwn, Ind. Ocean I AM'shehr, Fenian Gulfj Adieen Head, Sumatra . | Adams Port (Mary Id.),' I TeOowSea. . . . i Adelaide Port, Australia J : S. Coast I : Aden and adjacent Bays, I I Arabia^ S.E. Coast^ .| Adenara^ Flores, Malay! Archipelago . . \i Admiralty G., Australia, X.W. Coast . . Adolphaa Island, Torres Strait Adoa Atoll, MaldiTes Aden Matte Atoll, Mai dives , Adventare Port, New Zealand Agoada Pnt, Hindostan. W. Coast . . . ! Agnlhas Cape, Africa, S. Coast Akaroa Harb., New Zea- land ' Akasi, Japan Sea . . . Akyab, Azacan R, Bay of Bengal ..... Al Bid&, Penian Gulf . Alabat Harbour, Luzon . Albany Ids. (Port Albany) Australia^ £. Coast '. Albert Riyer (Kangaroo Point), Australia, N. Coast Aldabra Ids.,Mo£ambique Algoa B., Africa^ S. Cfst. AlUeator Rtt., Anstndia, N. Coast .... Amboyna, Moluccas . . Amirant^ Isles (St Joseph Id.), Indian Ocean . Amoy (Inner Harbour). China, E. Coast . . Ampanam B., Lombock . Amsterdam, Indian O. . Amu^awein, Peraian G. AmarStrait,G. of Tartary Andaman Ids., Port Blair, Indian Ocean . . ■ Port Comwallis H. M. 8 30 7 80 8 45 2 5 44 7 80 to 9 80 12 12 16 1 3 12 20 10 30 2 50 3 24 6 36 45 8 80? 10 BiSB. fl. 6 7 8 10 6 7 10 4 4 8 5 8 64? 9 6? 9 Nps. 12 15 ; 10 I 7 80 5 4 8 40 33 5 I 12 18i 8 6 11 ' 3 11 40 6 11 40 5-6 10 . 9 10 > 8} ft 10-13 10 , 4-6 19-20 7 84 ; H 144 Flags. Andaman Strait, Indian Ocean Andrava Bay, Madagas- car AngoxaBiTer,Africa,E.C. Angra Bank, Hindos- tan, W. Coast . . . Antongil Bay (Port Choi- seuT), Madagascar Aor Pulo, Sumatra, N.E. Coast AoteaHarb., NewZealand Aracan B. (Baf ), Bay of Bengal, E. Coast . . Amhem Bay, Australia, N.C Arroa, Malacca Strait . Arthur Port, Tasmania . Asaph St, B., Australia, N. Coast .... Auckland Harbour, New Zealand, N. Island . Augustine St., B., Mada- gascar, W. Coast . . Avon Isles, Austnilia>E.C. Awasima (Inland Sea), Japan Awanui B., New Zealand Aylen Bay, Tellow Sea . Aymaun, Persian Gulf . Bab-el-Mandeb, G. of Aden Baouit B. , China Sea, E.C. Badas Id., Linga Bay, Sumatraf .... BadongB. (S.Cst.), Baly Bahrein, Persian Gulf . BaUbac Id., China Sea, E. Coast .... Balade Harb., New Cale- donia Balambangan Id., Borneo, N. Coast .... Balasore B., B. of Bengal, W. Coast .... Bancoot B. (entrance), Hindostan, W. Coast Banda, Moluccas . . . Bander Altileh, G. of Aden Gori, Gulf of Aden Sh^b, Ind. Ocean Pelkam, Arabia, S.E. Coast .... High Water, Full and Change. H. M. 10 24 3 30 10 80 4 10 9 45 8 7 52 6 46 7 5 4 80 8 30 14 7 44 2 30 11 20 12 10 6 PM 11 5 30 11 6 80 10 10 2 4 6 46 8 45 ■ 7 10 Biss. Spgs.Nps, ft. H 7 18 9 5 5 12 9 6-8 10 4 14 11 13 5 7 7 6 6 7 6 12 9i 7 5 4? 6-8 16 12 6? 6 7 • Fromaaarrey of Aden Anehorage by Combiandeb Dayman, B.N., H.M.S. Bmui,l8BBi but, aoeordlBg to tlie Sarreyors of the Indian Navy, springs at Aden rise 8 j ftet. t Tnn obacnrations made in the mouth of September by W. STAyro', Mostsr Commanding H.M. SarraylDg Hrisr Snracf o. Digitized by L^OOg IC lei TIDES, High Rise. High Rise. Plaok. Water, Pull and Place. Water, Full and 1 Change. Spgs.Np8. Change. Spgs. NpsJ H. M. ft. ft. H. M. ft. ft. 1 B&nUm, Java .... 5 Bluff Harb., New Zealand 1 18 8 6 Barbe St., Sumatra, N.E. Bombay Dockyard, Hin- Coast 6 6 dostan, W. Coast 11 40 12-17 I Bairenld., China Sea, £. Booby Isbtnd, Australia, N. Coast . . . . Coast 9 30 5J 4 30 8 Barren Ids., Madaracar Barton Port(Bubon Pnt.), 4 45 12 ! Botany Bay, Australia, £. Coast 1 8 1.1 i 7-8 China Sea, E.C. . . 10 55 ': Boteler R., Madagascar . 4 30? 15? B^idtUi, Persian Gulf . 12 10 j Bourbon IsUnd, see Re- BasU Bay. Korea, W.C. 4 15 18 10 union Island. Basrah (Bar), Persian 1 1 Bouro (Cajeli Bay) Mo- 1 Gulf 12 1 luccas 1 G Town . . . . a 0? 9? Bowen Port, Australia, 1 Baaein R., Bayof Bengal 10 9 6 £. Coast . . . . y 35 IG Batanes, Bashee Islands, •i BoyannaB., Madagascar, China Sea, E. Coast . 4 i 1 W. Coast . . . . 4 30 15 BatRyia,Java . . . . 10 2 1 1 Bramble Cay, Torres Strt 9 15 12 Batchian, Gilolo^Moluocas 1 6 Brava, Africa, £. Coast . 4 30 8 ( Bate (Gulf of Cutch), Hin- Britannia Bay, Suinbawa British Sound, Madagas- 1 11-12 ddstan,W. Coast . . 12 20 12 8 Batticalao River, Ceylon Bay of Islands (Motu Mea 5 2-3 car, E. Coast . . . 4 H 1 Broad Sound, Australia, 1 Islet), N.Zeaknd - . 7 15 1 9 6 £. Coast . . . . 11 20-30 t BaarutoCape,A{noa,£.C. 4 15 1 10 Broadway R. (entrance). 1 Belligam Bay, Ceylon Bellona Bm6 (Middle), 2 20 1 21 China, £. Coast . . 11 74 ! Broken Bay, Australia, 1 Australia, E. Coast . 8 30 6 £. Coast . . . . 8 6-9 1 n Bembatooka Bay, Mada- gascar, W. Coast . . Bruit River, Borneo . . 3 11 1 4 30 16 Bruni R, China Sea, £. Benooolen, Sumatra . . 3-5 Coast 11 12 Berbereh or Burburra Brunswick B., Australia, (Gulf of Aden), Afrioa, E. Coast . . . . Bersiap Point, Banka Btiit 7 15 6 80 9 12 N.W. Coast . . . Bubon Point, Port Barton, China Sea, E. Coast . Bulfido R. (entranoe), 12 10 55 24 6 i 1 Beypoor R. (entrance), Hindoston, W. Coast Africa, S. Coast . . 3 45 ^4 ; 1 15 5 Bulsaur R., Hindostan, 1 ! Bias Bay (Tooniang Id.), W. Coast . . . . 1 45 18 China, E. Coast . . 8 0| Buluagan O'sta Ana Port, , China, E. Coast . . 1 1 Filipioas . . . . 12 6i : 8 30 Burong I., China Sea 4 45 7 ! Biddah R., B. of BMigal, • Bushire, see Abti-shehr. W. Coast .... 10 u 12 Bussorah R. Bar, Persian 1 Bima Bay, Surohawa Noon 6 Gulf 12 ' 1 1 Binkang B., China Sea, Busuanga, BuriaB Island Byron Bay, Australia, £. 12 30 6 1 W. Coast . . . . U 80 5 Bintula R., China Sea, Coast 9 45 6 1 E. Coast . . . . 5 45 6 Cape, Australia, E. 1 Bird Ishtnd, China Sea, Coast 9 45 6 , E. Coast .... 9 30 6 Cajeli Bay, Bouro . . Calcutt:^ Bengal . . . 1 G ; Ids., Africa, S. Cst. 4 4-5 2 30 BUir Harb., China Sea, 1 Caledonia Harbour, New ' W. Coast . . . . 8 50 9 Granada . . . . 11 40 H 1 BUnche Port, Streaky CiOiout Roads, Hindos- Bay, Australia, S. Cst. 1 ; 5 tan, W. Coast . . . i 15 ^ 1 Bligh Sound, New Zea- land Cama^uin, Babuyan Ids. Cambmg, Banda Sea . . jigitized by Vj^ 1 6 G \ i 10 45 8 C p(3gk G 1 TIDES. 195 VhLCZ. High Water, Full and Change. Cunden Harb., Australia. ' K.W. Coast . . Campbell Gape, New Zea-; land Ouiton Hi ver (entrance)/ China Canton River, ) t •&<- i.! . (Knperld.)}^^^^"^^ ) In May " J & June t Gueening Bay, Australia, K.W. Coast . . . Cardmapu, Pktagonia,W. CoMt .... Guvados Gaiayos Shoals, j 1ikH<"« Ocean • > Cacteret Port» New Ire- 1 land \ Gtftrifls K, 6. of Tartary \ Casoarina Point, China Sea, E. Coast . .« . .- Cato Bank, Australia^ £. ' Coaaft i CaTalli Islands, New Zea- » land CaTem Island, China Sea, B. Coast .... . Centre Id. (Foyeaux St), i New Zealand . . . . Ceiaai, Wahaay Harbour, Molnccas .... Chalky Inlot, New Zea- land Champion Bay, Australia, Wi CoMt . . . . Changdii Id.,Chuia, £.C. dumn Boad, Hang-chu Bay, China, £. Coast Chauan Bay, China, E. Coast Cheduba, Bay of Bengal Chee-fow, »ee Chifu. Chcntabnn River, China Sea^ W. Coast CberbaDiaai Reef, Lacca-i dives, Indian Ocean .1 Chesterfield Islet, Aus- tralia, £. Coast . . Chifo, YeUow Sea . . Chinmo Bay, China, £. Cosst Chunney Id., Bees Pass, Gfaliia, E. Coast . . Clundm Harbonr, China, CCoast . . . Chin-haB,YimgIL,China, B. Coast . . . H. H. 12 6 10 2 40 ' 1 40 11 45 50 2 10 80 9 30 8 8 9 80 12 15 6 11 15 9 10 9 80 12 11 11 80 10 10 8 30 10 84 10 20 11 80 12 25 .11 20 Rise. ft. 37i 8 8 54 54 30 10 4 6 6 «i 6 7 5J 8 8 8 1 17 25 5J 7 5 8 16 12 17 124 Nps. Plack. 64 ft. I Ching-tauBay,YellowSea I. Chit^ng (Bar), Bay of jl Bengal^ £. Coast 6 IChodo Id.. Korea, W.C. J Choiseul Port, Madagas- l| ear, £. Coast . . . Chosan Harbour or Tsau liang-hai, Japan Sea Christmas Island, Indian Ocean Christmas Harbour, Ker- guelen Id. Chuen-pee Point, Canton River ..... Chusan Archipelago (Ver non Channel), China, £. Coast .... Chusan Tinghae, China^ £. Coast .... Circular Head, Tasmania Cleveland Bay, Australia, B. Coast . . . . Cochin Harb. and Road, Hindostan, W. Coast Cockbum Port» Africa, E. Coast .... Sound, Ans< traha, W. Coast Collier Bay, Australia, N.W. Coast . . . Colombo, Ceylon . . . Condore, Cochin China . Congoon Bay, Persian G. Conway Cape, Australia, E. Coast .... Cooper Port, New Zea- land Coringaor Cocanada Bay, B.^y of Bengal, W. Coast ..... Coringa R. (Bar), Bay of Benea], W. Coast . . Comer Inlet, S. Australia Criohton Harbour, Korea, S. Coast . . . Crimen Ids., Java Sea Croifiilles Harbour, New Zealand .... Crowdy Head, Australia, £. Coast . . . . Cumsingroun Harbour, Canton River, China Cupchi Point, China, £.0. Curieuse, Seychelles, In dian Ocean ... Curtis Port, Australia, E. Coast .... o 2 .^i gk i ^ by High Water, Full and Change, H. M. 6 1 15 6 20 4 7 45 10 2 2 9 40 11 11 40 7 80 1 4 15 9 11 45 1 3 7 46 11 3 60 9 10 9 11 40 9 50 8 9 9 15 12 6 8 6 10 9 40- i^ Rise. Spgs. ft. 12 15 12 5 7 2 n 14 12 9 10-12 H 12 1-H 36 2 4 H 18 74 4-5 5 8 114 6 12 5 64 7 10-12 QQgii Nps. 196 TIDES. L Place. High Water, Full and Change. Daggi Sound, New Zea- Dakwan Bay, Chioa Sea^ £. Coast .... Dalryrople B., MadagaS' car, W. Coast . . . Port, Tasmania Damaun Bar, Hindostan, W. Coast . . . Dampier Strait, Moluccas Danno R., Hindostan, W. Coast . . . Damley Id., Torres Strait, Darwin Port, Austialia, N. Coast .... DauphinFort,Madagascar Deep Point, Duiian Strait Delagoa Bay (Port Mel Yille), Africa, S. Coast (Portuguese Factoiy), Africa, S. u. M. 11 30 11 5 12 5 1 30 Coast , Shefeen Id., Africa, S. Coast . , Delffado C, Africa, E.C. Delhi Biver, Sumatra Denham Sound, Sharks Bay, Australia, N.W. Coast Denial Bay, Australia, S. Coast Denison Port, Australia, £. Coast . . . . Dewghur Harbour, Hin- dostan, W. Coast Diamond Island, Bay of Bengal Point, Malacca Strait Diego Garcia Island, In -I dian Ocean Diu Island, Hindostan, W. Coast Divy Pt., B^ of Bengal Dodandowe Bay, Ceylon Douany, Comoro Ids. Dunbar, Hindostan, W. Coast Dunk Island, Australia, E. Coast Dumford Port, Africa, £. Coast Dusky Bay, New Zealand Dyer Id., Africa, S. Cst. East Cape, New Zealand Eddystone Pt., Australia, £. Coast .... Bisi. Spgs. Nps. ft. ft. 8 15 10 17 11 1 30 , 17 : 9 80 I 12 5 80 17-24 4 30 i 7 5 10 I 4 30 15 5 20 ! 12 4 40 4 4 12 16 8 12 5 5 12 15 6 9 30 6 11 25 9 10 30 8 12 9} 1 30 6 2 1 50 4 6 5 n 11-12 10 10 8 74 11 9 28 6-10! 4 45 11 15 2 50 8 55 12 ] 10 ! 8 5 i 7 1 9 39 7 Place. High Water, Full and Change. Elisabeth Bay, Africa, S.W. Coast . . . Elliot Port, Australia, S. Coast Encounter Rock, Yellow Sea Endeavour B., Australia, N. Coast Strait, Aus- tralia, N. Coast Endermo Harbour, Japan English B., Delagoa Bay, Africa, S. Coast . Enora Bay, Japan Sea Eran Bay (Palawan), China Sea, £. Coast . Essington Port, Avstralia, N. Coast . . . . Eyre Port, Australia, S. Coast Fairy Port» Australia, S.C FalsePointjBayof Bengal, W. Coast . . . . Fansiak Channel, Canton R, China» E. Coast Farewell, Cape, New Zea- land ... . Fatsizio, Japan Sea Fitz-Roy Id., Australia, E. Coast Flesh Bay, or Bay St Bras, Africa, S. Coast Flinders Group, Austra- lia, E. Coast Fog Ids., Hang-chu B., China, E. Coast . , Fongwhang Group (Bui- lock Harbour), China, W. Coast Formosa Mt. , Malacca Strait . Fowlers B. , Australia, S. Coast France, Port de. New Caledonia . . Frederick Reef, Australia, £. Coast . Freycinet Estuary Reach, Sharks Bay, Australia, N.W. Coast Galang Bay, Hainan Id., China Sea Galle, Pointe de, Ceylon, S. Coast Gambler Ids., Australia, S. Coast Risk. Np«. H. M. 10 44 8 1 5 30 7 30 10 10 3 24 10 30 8 1 9 20 6 9 15 8 30? 9 15 11 45 8 80 8 10 80 8 25 8 4 15 3 2 I 50 ft. 5-6 5-6 11 5-10 Oh 6 5 4 H IS 6 4 8 7i 14 5 7-12 6? 8-12 17 17 11 6 4 6 3i 5 4-5 2 3 Digitized by tjO(3QlC TIDES, 197 I High Biss. High Rise. / PULCK. Water, Full and Place. Water, Full and 1 Change. Spgs. Nps. ■ Change. Spgs. Nps. H. V. ft. ft. B. V. ft. ft. (W»T, Frfiou Id., Gilolo Hawke B., New Zealand 7 50 3 Pksnge, Molaocas 5 Heawandou Pholo Atoll, 1 Gtekng Harbour, Au8- Maldives .... 9 30 •6 1 tnGa, S. CoMt . . 2 50 2J Heda Bay, Japan Sea . Heron Islet, Capricorn Group, Australia, £. OH rikfui Ch«, Africa, Howe, West Cape, Aus- KCoast . . . . 6 15 6 tralia, S. Coast . . . 9 6 { GundaTee R. (entrance), ; Hindoi,tan, W. Coast 2 19 Coast 12 15 16 1 Gntdairid., China, E.C. 11 30 15 Hukkar R. (entrance), i H»imon Bay, China, E. Hindostan, W. (Joast 10 30 11 ; „.c«tt 9 Hulu Shan B., Yellow Sea 2 30 8 6 ^m-tau (Thornton Hunter Id., Bass Strait . 11 30 8 • Hafen), Yellow Sea . Hikodidi Harbour, Ye«) 9 no 10 fi Pnrt- AnatmLlin 1? 1 Const 9 45 6-7 ! „ Wttd,J«ptn . . . «*f ton Port (Korea), 5 3 1 Iki, Japan Sea . . . Iliolo Port, Filipinas . . 12 8 i 51 , ,„^elIow8ea. . . . 8 30 ! 11 Indus (Gizreo Bander), ««««Bii Pool, Sharks 1 Hindostan, W. Coast 9 50 7 ; B»y,Aa8tralia,N.W. Inhambane R., Africa, E. .„^«»t 5 ! 3i Coast 4 15 10 : Kwg-Au Bay (Seshani Investigator Road, Aus- 1«J^), China. E. Coast 11 45 . 14 tralia, N. Coast . . 8 9 r- (t'oglds.) . 11 45 1 17 Isolette Cape, Arabia, ' 177- ^(ChapooIU.) 12 25 S.E. Coast . . . . 9 10 9 55 32 8 6 Jaoinio, Port San, Tioao Id.,Faipinas . . . 6 30 i Jackson Port (N. Head), 1 10 40 184 Australia . . . . 8 15^ 30^ie 198 TIDES. Place. Jafflrabftt, HindoetaD, W. Coast Jashk Shoal, Persian Gulf Jask Cape, Persian Gulf Jenris Bay, Australia, £. Coast Jezirat Arabi, Persian G. Hamar - al- nafur, Arabia^ B.E. Coast . Jtin, Persian Gulf Kabr Kais Khaif^ or Kareg, Persian Gulf Lareky Persian G. -Tumb, Jiddah, Red Sea . . Johanna Id. (anchorage), Pomony Harb. Comoro Ids. John St., Biyer, Africa, S. Coast Jonquiere Bay, Gulf of Tartorr . . Jooria, Hindostan, W.C. Juan de Nova, Mada- gascar . . Jui& Fleet entranoe, Can ton KiTor, China Junkseylon Id. (E. side), Malacca Strait KaikoraPenin., New Zea^ land Kaipara Harb. (entranoe), New Zealand . . . Kalian Pomt,Banka Strait Kapiti IsUnd, N. Zealand Karachi Harb. (entranoe), HindoBtan, W. Coast Eata, Japan Sea Kawau Id., New Zealand Kawhia Harb., New Zei^ land Kedewarry, Hindostan Keelacarry, Ceylon . Kedgeree, Bay of Bengal Keeling Islands (Port Refuge), Ind. Ocean . Kelung Harb. (Formosa), China Sea, £. Coast . Kenn Reef, Aurtralia, £. Coast Kent Island, Bass Strait High Water, Full and Change. H. H. 11 85 9 30 6 6 20 6 30? 9 30 11 30 45 8 10 15 3 40 4 4 10* 2 11 50 10 5 30 10 55 8 17* 9 10 80 6 4 6 80 9 30 9 57 11 11 80 5 80 10 80 8 11 10 Rise. Spgs. Npe. 9 8 6 6-9 10 10 n H 8 8 11 11 5 6 16 114 8 10 12i 6 10 12 9 5 8 51 ft. 74 124 Place. il Bay, Australia, E. Kerguelen Island, Indian Ocean .... Kesm, or Kishm, Persian Gulf Khdr Jertimeh, Arabia, S.E. Coast .... Kijouk Phyou Harbour, Bay of Bengal . . . Kinsiang Point, China, E. Coast .... Kirindi, Ceylon . . Kiswarn Harb., Africa, E. Coast . . . Kitnapatnam, Bay of Bengal, W. Coast Koepang, Hmor . . . Kokohu, New Zealand . Ko-kun-to Group, Korea. W. Coast .... Kok-si-kon Prt. (Formosa) China Sea, E. Coast Koombanah B., Australia, W. Coast . . . Koree R. (Monda Point), Hindooeton, W. Coast Kowe'it, Persian Gulf Krakatoa, Strait of Sunda Kuper Harbour, Korea, S. Coast . . . Kuriy^n Muriy^n Bay and Islands, Arabia, S.£. Coast . . . Kurrachee, tee Karachi, Kweshan Ids., China, E. Coast Labuan Id., China Sea, E. Coast .... Lady Bay, Australia, S. Coast .... Lady Elliot Islet, Aus- tralia, E. Coast . Laguimanoc Port, Luzon Lamo Harbour, Africa, E. Coast .... Langshan Crossing, Yang- tse-Kiaugt . . . Lankeet IsUnd, Canton River, China . . . LansewBay, China, E.C. Latham Id., Africa, E.Cst. Lau-mn-ho, Yellow Sea . High Water, Full and Change. u. M. 9 80 2 11 9 30 10 7 3 30 4 30 11 11 10 15 2 25 11 30 9 11 40 15 7 9 28 8 20 9 30 9 45 9 1 30 4 6 1 40 11 20 10 4 1 80 * In N.W. HonsooB. t At the Lisgshang Crossing the tide rises fyr t houfs only, tad fUls Ibr 9 hoiirfl.-*HJC.8. AeM»f ^«*- Digitized by LjOOgle TIDES. 190 Place. High Water, Full and Change. Rise. Spgs. Np«. Place. High Watw, FuU and Change. Rise. SpgB. Npe. I«vai Port, Madagascar Last C^KS (G. of Siam), Chhia Sea> W. Coaet IJM Ho (Bar), Yellow Sea ... . (entrance) Ltaa-toBg, Chingho, Yel- knrSea . . Gulf (Sand Point), YeUow Sea N.W. Head of Gulf • liady Kiver (entrance), . Africa, £. Coast . . Liageh, Persian Gulf I^otin Island, Canton B., Cbina, £. Coast . . liefaan Bay. China, E.G. Utan Bay, Yellow Sea . Lizud IcL, Australia, £. Coast Uoyd Port^ Bonin IdH. . lx)bah Point, BaakaStrt.* Loheia, Bed Sea . . . I^xnbock (Ampanam B.), Java Sea . . . .' Loid Howe Island, S. Pacific |L»ihaB-luia, Yellow Sea iLoois Port^ MauritiuH I^uibo River (entrance), Afnea, K. Coast . . Udpara Pass, Banka Scnut lADg-mun Harbour, Yel- low Sea ^taeao, China, £. Coast , Macansr, Celebes . . McDoQgallHarb., Africa, S.W. Coast . . . Maeowi, Bad Sea . , Macqaarie Harbour, Tas mania ..... Port, Australia, KCoast . . . . Hadane Island, Mada- gsflcar Madna Road, Coroman- ddCoBst . . . . ^Africa.'E.Cst. Id., Africa, £. Coast ^ ■ —■Mm , Arabia, o, Jfi. CoMt .... H. U. 8 30 5 7 4 5 1 20 4 50 5 30 4 15 13 0? 12 10 15 8 9 15 6 8 11 0* 1 30 8 '8 30 4 80 12 30 10 10 4 40 2 30 30 7 30 8 56 4 7 84 4 30 4 80 4 80 9 ft. 74 «i 114 12 64 7 10 12 7i 16 6 7-10 8 10 3 6 11 3 22 10 7 n ? 3 4-5 5 H 8 7 16 ft. 74 5J 8i 74 Makalleh, Arabia^ 8.B. Coast MaknmbaR. ,Mada|Moar Makung Harbour, Pesoa- dores, China Sea . Malacca Strait (light ves- sel one &thom bank) (o£f Mount Formosa) Road, Malaooa Strut Malcohn AtoU, Maldires Mal^, Maldives . . Malludu Bay, Borneo Mana Island, New Zea- Und Manama, Persian Gulf Manawatn River, New Zealand .... Mandavee Roads, Hin- dostan, W. Coast . • Mflnila (Luzon Island), China Sea, £. Coast . Manning River, Austra- lia, E. Coast . . . ManoraP., Karachi, Hin- dostan, W. Coast . . Manorah R., Hindostao, W. Cosst . . . . Manukau Harbour (en- trance). New Zealand Maria Van Diemen Cape, New Zealand . . . Marka, or Mnerka, Africa, E. Coast .... Maroni Bay, Comoro Ids. Martaban, Bay of Bengal liary, St, Harb., Mada- gascar, £. Coast . . Mascat, Persian Gulf Mason B., New Zealand Massacre Bay (Tasman comer), New Zealand Motu Pipi River, New Zealand . Massowah, Red Sea Maule River, Chile Maulmain, Bay of Bengal Mauritius (Port Lonis) (Grand Port) Mayday Bay, Palawan Mayh^ Id., Indian Oeaao Mayotta Id. , Mozambimie Macambo Port, Mada- gascar . . H. M. 8 30 4 45 10 80 6 8 7 30 10 80 12 80 10 80 7 5 20 10 11 50 10 40 9 15 10 80 1 80 9 80 8 4 80 4 58 2 20 4 11 15 11 16 8 45 9 50 1 10 8 12 80 1 9 55 4 4 10 4 30 ft. 7 17 H 15 11 11 8 8 6^-8 8 7 8 15 24 4 H 16 18 7 8 10 21 5 6 8 18 14 8 32 8 14 H If 15 ft. 7 6 11 Id 6 9 10 17 24 * In S.£. Monsoon. Digitized by LjOOQIC 200 TIDES. Placb. High Water, Fall and Change. Meichen Sound, Chinay £. Coast . . . Melboame, Australia, S. Coast .... MeUnda P., Africa, E.C. Mellish Reef (Sand Cay), Australia, E. Coast Menam River (Paknam) China Sea, W. Coast Mensular Id., S.E. end; Sumatra . . Merhtfi, Arabia, S.E. Cat. Mercury Bay, New Zea- land Menrai, Bay of Bengal, £. Coast . . . Meijee R, HindostaO] W. Coast . . . Miau-tau (Depdt Bay), Yellow Sea . . Michael Seymour Port, Gulf of Tartary . Milford Sound, New Zea- land, Mid. Island Millman Island, Palawan W. Coast ... ' Min R. (Temple Point) China, E. Coast . ' (Losing Island), Chma, E. Coast . Mindanao, Filipinas . Minow Islands, Madagas- car, W. Coast . . . > Mirs Bay (Tide Cove), China, E. Coast . Mocha Road, Red Sea, E. Coast . . . Mdyneux Bay, N. Zeald. Mombaza Port, Africa, E. Coast . . . Monganui Harbour, New Zealand .... Moreton Bay, Ahstralia, E. Coast . . . Mossel B., Africa, S. Cst. Mourondava,Madagascar, W. Coast . . . Mozambique Har., Africa. E. Coast . . . Mungalaum Id., China Sea, E. Coast . . MungiUlo or Mongallo R., Africa, £. Coast . Muidounah Id. (E. Cst), Red Sea .... Murray Islands, Torres Strait .... H. tf. 12 80 1 20 4 15 7 65 5 7 6 9 7 21 10 30 11 10 35 5 30 9 15 10 27 10 45 12 7 5 10 12 3 4 8 15 9 30 3 30 4 45 4 15 11 4 45 G 9 30 Rise. Spgs. Nps. ft 17 3 11 5-6 H 4 6} 7 18 7 6 3 8 2} 19 6 15 6i 4i 8 11 9 3-7 6 12 12 5 12 3 10 ft. 14J Place. Murray Pass, Bass Strait Musa Port, Babuyan Ids. Mutlah River (entrance to Biddah River), Bay of Bengal, W. Coast . (Muda Kali), Bay High Water, Full and- Change. ofBengal,W. Coast Naafe R., Bay of Bengal, £. Coast Nafa-Kiang, Loo Choo Islands Nagasaki Bay, Japan Sea Nagore, Bay of Bengal, W. Coast .... Xamkilds., China, E.Cst. Nanioa Island (Clipper Road), China, E. Cst Namquan Harb., China, E. Coast .... Nancowry Harb., Nico- bar Islands . . . Nangamessie Harbour, Samba Nangka Id., Banka Strait Nansaree River (Bar) Hindostau, W. Coast Napoleon Road, Gulf of Tartary Narrinda Bay, Jirladagas- car,W. Coast . . . Naruto (Fokura), Japan Sea Natal Port, Africa, S. Cst Naturaliste Channel, Sharks Bay, Australia^ N.W. Coast . . . Negapatam, B. of Bengali Newcastle, Australia, £.1 Coast ; Nhatrang Bay, China, W. Coast I Nicholson Port (Lambton Harbour), New Zea-, land Nicobar Id. (Nancowry Harb.), Indian Ocean Nimrod Sound, China, E. C/oast Ninepin Group, China, E. Coast Ning-hai, Yellow Sea Nin-po-fu, Yung River, China, E. Coast North Sands, Malacca Strait Noss Island, Madikgascar Numa-choa, Comoro Ids. R. M. 11 10 10 11 45 10 C 28 7 15 8 15 8 30 11 15 10 9 15 11 30 3 Digitized by LjOOQ I CO 4 30 6 17 4 30 11 45 5 9 45 8 30 4 30 9 15 10 30 10 12 1 5 30 5 a .0 TIDES. 201 Place. High Water, Full and Change. BiBX. Spgs. Nps.! Place. High Water, Fall and Change. Rise. Spg8. Nps. Xjm Harbour, Aiiica, aCoast . . . OboTttory Id., China SflA, £. Coast . . OehrCftpe,Banka Stndtl %oSi]na,LooChooId8.| OiboHarb., Afnca, E.C.| Onaider Island (Gulf ofl AkUMh), Bed Sea .! Omemiy R , Hindostan, ! W. Coast .... OnHaas-Masirah, Ara- bia, S.E. Coast . .' One Fathom Bank Light, MabKxa Strait . . Ooloogan Bay, China Sea, £. Coast . . . . Oontiog Port, Loo Choo Iilands .... 0«Jaima, Japan Sea . Oiprej Beef, AustraHa, KCoast . . . . OtagoHar., New 2ieakknd PfKfCape, „ . PatmedoBoad, Sumha. Id Palmeira Point» Ceylon . Paioan Bay, Mindoro Punanmg Ids., Borneo, £. Coast . . . . P^pasg Bay, JaTa . . Paacol, China Sea, E.C. P^Roga-renga Harbour, New Zealand . . PaMge Id., Banda Sea PanadsTa Bay, Mada* gaicar, W. Coast P^ttonn's Inlet, New Zealand ... PattaB., Africa, E. Cst. Paol, St, Isbnd, Indian Ocean .... Panmben Pan, Bay of| Bengal, W. Coast Pegasus Port, N. Zealand Peh-taog-ho, Yellow Sea Pei-ho or Peking Biver (enbi]ioe),YelJowSea* -":— ~ (Tien-teiii) ^eucaa Lagoon, Elanga< n» Id., Australia Pdams Sound, New Zea- ^ ^a ..... , ,P««ibaClannel, Mozam- •wpe H. M. 3 45 11 51 G 30 12 7 30 61 4 15 I 6 6 i 4 1 45 I 18 10 i 10 6 9 30 6 35 6 50 5 55 8 36 2 50 6 9 30 9 40 7 54 noon 15 8 5 6i 6 7 6 15 7-11 5 8-10 7-8 6 7 6 5 i 15 1 10 : 5 4 30 i 10 11 1 30 11 50 3 33 2 8 10 3 40 I 10 7 j 44 5 G I 35 11 4 I 11 ft. i I Pemba Id., Mozambique Penang, Malacca Strait Percy Isles, Middle or| No. llshind . . . South or H. M. 4 15 12 10 30 12 No. 2 Islet, Australia, £. Coast . . . . Perim Id.« Gulf of Aden . Peros Banhos, Indian Ocean . . Perouse, La, Strait, Japan Sea Perron Cape, Sharks Bay, Australia, N.W. Coast Pesoadore Ids. (Makung Harbour), China Sea . Petrel Bay, St Francis Isle, Australia, S. Cst. Pheasant Point, Wusung Biver, China, £. Cst Philip Port Capel Bay, Australia, S. Coast (entrance), Australia, S. Coast Queenscliffl 6 i 7J, Philip B., Hobson Bay,! Australia, S. Coast .. Pidioe Bay, Lombock . I Pierre Island, China Sea, £. Coast .... Pigeon Bay, Yellow Sea Pihkishan Ids., China, £. Coast .... Pillar Cape, Tasmania Pimlea Harbour, Africa. £. Coast . . . . Pio Qttinto Port, Babuyan Islands Pitty, Hindostan, W.C. Plettenberg Bay, Africa, S. Coast . . . . ' Plymouth, New, New! Zealand j Pomba B., Africa, £. Cst.1 Pootoo Island, China, £.1 Coast Portland Bay, Australia, S. Coast .... Possession Cape, Torres Strait . . Id., Torres ft 12 9 IC ft. 7J 13 10 80 I 14 12 I 7 1 30 10 30 12 45 10 80 12 35 2 30 1 30 1 30 3 11 45 5 6 5J 9J 6 13 3-4 3-4 3 3-4 10-12 4 8 Strait Post-Office Id., Torres Strait Poverty Bay, N. Zealand 8 80 I 17 10 16 4 30 : 12 6 I 6 10 5 9 3 10 I 6 9 30 , 12 4 I 15 8 15 12 ! Midnight 4 9 I G 1 P 1 G 5 94 6 11 * Time and rise much slfected by winds. Digitized by LjOOQIC 202 TIDES. High Rise. High Rise. ' Place. Water, Full and Plaox. Water, Full and Change. Spgs. Nps. Change. Spgs. >rps. H. M. ft. ft. 1 H. M. ft. ft. Pratas Shoal, China Sea . 4 5 Raujpoor (G. of Cambay), Hindostan, W. Coast Preservation Inlet, New 2 15 18 13 Zealand 11 20 8 6 Red Bay, Ceylon, S. Coast Red Island, Durian Strait 2 20 H Prince Frederick Har- i 5 104 bour, Australia, N.W. j Refuge Cove, Bass Strait 12 5 Coast 12 28 Rendezvous Id., Borneo, Princess Royal Harbour, S.W. Coast . . . 8 Australia, S. Coast . 11 56 1-4 Resolution B., Marquesas 2 80 4 Pulicat Shoals, Coroman- 1 Reunion Id., ) (StPierre) noon 3i del Coast . . . . 9 25 2} 1 Indian 0. ((St. Denis) 22 24 Pulo Aor, Sumatra, N.E. ! Reunion Id,, J (St. Gilles) Indian 0. ( (St. Paul) 1 24 Coast 5 1 1 7 4 Condore, China Sea, j Rhio, Rhio Strait . . . 10 7 5 W. Coast* .... 2 30 H 1 Richmond R., Australia, Leat, Gaspar Strait 2 30 4 E. Coast .... 9 20 2 80 4 Rivoli B., Australia, S.C. 10 4 Panjang, G. of Siaro 7 2 Rocky Id., Gulfpf Siam 4 4 Timoan (W. side), i Rodrigue Id., Ind. Ocean 1 45 6 China Sea, W. Coast 6 7i Romania Point (Malay Queda, Malacca Strait . 12 54 Penin.), China Sea, Queen Charlotte Sound ! W. Coast .... 10 30 (entrance), New Zea- ' Rovama River, Africa, land 8 50 8 6 E. Coast .... 4 16 Hi Quilimane R. (entrance), i Royalist Port, Palawan, Africa, E. Coast . . 4 15 IG 1 E. Coast .... 11 01 "■ 64? Qniloa, Africa, E. Coast . 4 45 12 1 Uuapuke Id. (Foveaux Strait), New Zealand 1 Rachada Cape, Malacca 1 8 6 Strait 5 30 13 1 Sabon Id., Durian Strait 10 Radama Port, Madagas- Saddle Id., East, China, car, W. Coast . . . 4 40 13 E. Coast .... 11 14 1 Ragged Id., Surabawa, Java Sea .... Sado ( Yebisu), Japan Sea 5 2 ' 8 10 3 SaSgon (C. St. James) . 11 8 1 "D^inf TI/kvnArk ■ iroini, Jiorneo, E. Coast . . . . 7 chin China .... 5 30 H Raine Id., Torres Strait . 8 10 10 Sale Macowa, Red Sea . 30 2 Rajahpoor Harbour, Hin- Sambilangs, Malacca Str. 12 104 dostan, W. Coast . . 11 12 Sand Point, G. of Liau-' Rajang River, Borneo . 4 45 13 9 ' tung, Yellow Sea . . 4 50 7 5J Ramree Road, Bay of ' Sandy Cape, Australia, Bengal, E. Coast . . 10 12 E. Coast .... 7 60 6-8 1 Rangoon, Bay of Bengal, E. Coast .... ! \A Minln-mn W P 5 15 80 21 14 1 Sang-tau Bay, Yellow Sea 55 7 44 Tf /f^Tltl^T1f*p\ 1 Sanguir Island, Moluccas Sanmoon Bay (St George 6 BayofBengal,E. Cst. lUs Hafdn, Africa, E. 3 15 21 14 » Island), China, E. Cst. 10 20 16 Coast 6 15 4 San-shui, Si Kiang, China, R4s Mahommed (Gulf of E. Coast .... 5-6 Akabah), Red Sea . 6 5 Saparooa Id., Moluccas . 6 R&s Sharmah, Arabia, Sapie Bay, Snmbawa . . 1 10 S.B. Coast . . . . 9 8 Sarawak R. (Moratabas Ras-al-Kheimeh, Persian 1 entrance) . . . . 4 9 5J' Gulf 11 45 7 Santubong (entr.) 4 10 <5 1 R&s-al-Asidah Arabia R&sSh^bali } S.E. 8 30 10 5J 10 ! Sarawak Junction 5 15-18 9 R48-al-Hed Coast 9 30 9 1 neo,W. Coast. . . 5 20 16-18 9 • From a French swvey, 1862. , r\r^nlo Digitized by V^OOQlc TIDES. 203 Place. High Water, Full and GhaDge. Sm) Bay, Formowt . . 'Sk^pirll, B. of Bengal , ^Saaam Beef, AnstnBa, ' K Coast . . . . Sediiliigar Bay,* Bin- I doiUii, W. Coast. »dOi R., China Sea, W. CoMt Unm Islands, Hang-ohn . %, China, £. Coast jSeTcbeOeAndiip. (Mayh^ Id.), Indian Ocean ^ejyui Id., Ladrone Ids. ^3a4ai-tien Banks (W. . Ptft), Yellow Sea . . ."U Kadthi, Arabia, S.E, Coast .... S^nm.Hu&h, Arabia, S.S. Coast .... Sbaaghai, Tang • tM • £ng, China, K Csi. 29no-kiQg^ Si EJang, China, E. Coast . . Siaija, Pernan Ghilf . . Shaifa Bay, Natoralisto (."bsDnel, Anstralia, X.W. Coast . . . Denham Sonnd BeMh Freycinet Freycinet •Cape FerroD 12 45 . « « 5 4 40 utoary HamelinPooi '^iM&ea Island, Africa, 8.Co«t .... , _ ^JjuhUo Bay, YeUow Sea 1 80 *«»Bay,Anstndia,N.C " ^ 2 ,E. Coa«t . . SUWatcrB.,Aiistralia, E. coMt . . 7: StRa^orWest Rirer, <^ia>>& Coast: II (San-sboi) . t> (Shao-king) . fci.4.'. (Wttchan) . 8«kBher,K«Jaoca8trt. rr ^f off the town . >«f»«ftCape,Anstnaia, ^Ooait H. M. 10 8 9 44 11 4fi 4 6 45 2 50 9 20 9 45 40 1 11 45 12 5 3 4 15 6 8 80 10 80 9 I, Smnatea 9 15 6 a Rise. SpgB. Nps, ft. 12 7 14 «4 10 10 10 10 8 6 6 5 5 i\ H 12 9 18-25 12-18 12 11 10 ft. 7 14-20 5-6 8 1-li Vh^CE, High Water, Full and Change. Bl8K. Spgs. Nps. Simidsn, Japan Sea • . SimodaPort, „ . .' Simonoseki, „ • .' Simon's Bay, Africa . . ' Singapore, Newllarlxrar,' Malacca Strait . . Sir C. Hardy Ids., Torres! Strait, E. Coast . .'> Sir E. Pellew Islands,! Australia, N. Coast .1 Smoky Bay, Australia, S. Coast .... Society Bay (SnlivanBay), Yellow Sea . . . Socotra Id. , Indian Ocean SofalaR, Africa, E. Cst South- West Bay, New ProTidenoe .... ' Cape, New Zealand Spenser Gulf (Thorny Passage), Australia, S. Coast .... ' Point Lowly ■ Port Augustaf Point Riley Wallaroo . .i Spider Id., China, E. Csi.! Staunton Id., YeUow 8ea| Stephen Port, Australia, £. Coast .... Streaky Bay (Blanche- port), Australia, S.C. SuadivaAtoll,Maldiyes. Sual Port, Luzon . . . Sues Bay (head of Gulf), RedSea .... Sughr&, Arabia, aK Ost Surat, Hindostan, W.C. Swain Reefs, Australia, £. Coast .... Swan Island, Bass Strait Rirer, Port Grey, Australia,, W. Coast . Swift Bay, Australia, N. Coast Sydney, Australia, £. Csi. Ta-tsing ho, Yellow Sea . Tbble Bay, Africa, W. Cst. Tahrl, Persian Gulf . . Tai-cho ho. Yellow Sea . Taichow Ids., China, E.C. H. M. ft. 7 80 7 5 8-6 8 80 ! 8 2 44 I 5i 9 45 j 10 9 15 I 10 7 30 I 4-7 13 15 : 6 ir» j 8 7 20 I 8 4 t 19 7 80 12 12 7 8 80 5 46 irr. 10 I 17 1 80 I 8 8-8 6-8 9-12 I 4-6 9 6 I 5 I 6 [ i 6 I 6 ! 10 10 25 9 35 10 6 9 1-14 21 104 5 6 14 12 8 88 4 10 • 2 40 5 0? 15 9 fi. 6 n. 9i^j!^ ^^ v^ ^v- ^ ^^» V-^- * } '^ f^^ October to March \ and the contrary daring the rest mdi M ilTLf^'*'^' ^hen the wl4d Tern round to W. and S., and blows strong, the rise hss been * ^* "ii—CoinUmmm Jobh HurcHUOif, B.N., Admiralty Som^, Booth AustnOia, 1862. -J 204 TIDES. PlA0£. High Water, Full and Change. Kl8E. Spgs. Npr H. M. ft. ft. 9 30 63 1 30 cj 10 47 105 1 8 fi-8 ,4-0 1 11 45 7-12 1 12 5 10 1 7i 1 12i 4 18 s C 6 5J 4 30 G 7 9 30 5 35 'I' 8i C 10 G 9 30 5 50 12 5 9 7 10 6 <4 10 30 20 10 15 G 5 6i 1 10 45 12-18 ■■ 11 30 8 6 ! 12 6-8 10 30 10 8 7 C 30 6 12 84 11 8 30FM* 10 OAMt 12 9 Placb. High Water, Full and Change. Risi Spgs. ^^^ps Tai-Tai Bay, China Sea, E. Coam . . . . Tailnng Channel, Canton River, China . . . Ta-lien-whan Bay, Yellow , Sea Tama no CJra Harbour, Goto Id., Japan Sea . Tam-Sui Harbour, China Sea, £. Coast . Taraar R., George Town, Tasmania . . , Launceston. Tasmania^ .... Tamatave, Madagascar, £. Coast .... Tanab^, Ki Channel, Japan Sea .... Tanetang Harbour, Ma- dagascar, E. Coast . Tanjong Api, China Sea . Bolus, Malacca Strait Tanna, New Hebrides . Tappanooly Harbour, Su- matra Taranaki, or New Fly- mouth, New Zealand Tatiyania Bay, Japan Sea Tauranga Harbour, New Zeahmd Tavoy R. (entrance), Bay of Bengal, E. Coast . Tay*bay*oo-bay, China Sea, £. Coast . . . TebonkoR Road, Baly. N. Coast .... Thirsty Sound, Australia, £. Coast .... Thompson Sound, New Zealand . . Thorny Passage, Spencer Gulf, Australia, S.Cst Three Hummock Island (E. side), Bass Strait Three Kings' Islands, New Zealand. . . Ticao Island (Port San Jacinto), Filipinas Tien-pak Harb., China, E. Coast .... Tinghae, Chusan, China, £. Coast .... Toboe Ali Point, Banka Strait Tomo (Seto-uohi), Japan Sea ... . Tongsang Harb., China,! £. Coast .... Tooniang Id., Bias Bay,' China, E. Coast . . Towan Id., China, £. Cst! Tracy Island, Korea, S. Coast I Trincomalie Har., Ceylon, ' S. Coast .... Tringano R., 6. of Siaro, China S«s W. Coast . Trinity Opening, Great Burier Reefs . . . Troubridge Shoals, Au8< tralia, S. Coast . Tsang-chow Id., Bias Bay, China, £. Coast Tsau-liang-hai or Chosan Harbour, Japan Sea . Tsu-sima Sound, ,, Tsugar Strait, ,, . Turon B., Cochin China Tuticorin Harbour, G. of| Manar, Bay of Bengal, W. Coast . . . . Tutukaka Harbour, New Zealand . . . Tweed River (Danger Point), Australia, £.C. Twofold Bay, Australia, E. Coast .... Tylatiap Harbour, Java, & 6»8t . . Typa Anchorage, China, £. Coast .... Ummen Nakhellah, Per- sian Gulf . . . , Underwood Port, New] Zealand > Unsang, Borneo . . . i Upstart Bay, Australia,' E. Coast . . . . Urakami, Japan Sea . Uranouchi, „ . . Ursula Id. ,PaIawan,Cbina Sea, K Coast . . . Ushruffi Islands, Red Seal Vansittart's Saddle, Yel-i low Sea Vac Port, Isle of Pines, New Caledonia . . Venus Harbour, Austra- lia, S. Coast . H. M. 11 0? 11 30 8 9 20 8 58 8 18 8 9 15 3 30 8 30 7 45 8 30 5 3 1 15 7 9 45 10 8 45 10 j 7 30?' G 10 8 9 7 30 ft 12 13 114 2 7 7-12 6 11 G 14 4 20 8 G 2 15 2J 9 5-8 7 31 34 6 6 I 10 4 G * In 8.E. KonsooD. ^feiS.W.MonwonS^^ TIDES. 205 Puci. High Water, Full and ChaDge, VnoB Channel (Ghnnui AidtX Ghius E. Cat. Venvih, HindoBtan, ' W.Coagt . . . . VktoriaB.^OBqutoFiat,' Aortn]ia»N.W. Coast; Sandy Island, Awtialia, N.W. Cst. -Taiile Point, Anslnlia, N.W. Cit Vocvit, Si^ Cape, Mada- gascar, W. Coast . Port St., New Vbfimir, St., Bay, Gulf I ofT^irtary . . . ., Takuo Ids., China, E., I COMt . . . . J .Waiiaay Harb. (Cenun),| I N. CoMt, Moluccas .* Wiikalo B., New Zea- Waffia Id., Torres Strut Wanehn B. (entrance),, China, £. Coast . .1 (City), China,, £. Coast Waag.kia Bay, Tetlowi I Sea I i Waog-kia-tia Bay, Yellow ! Sea •«••«. Waoganni B., New Zear! Inlet^NewZea- had Waofiari Haiboar, New Waaguoa Hiari)oar, Newi Zealand Wancamni Harb., New' Wapligan Harb., Gulf tf St Lawrence . Wanboroi* Sound, Ana-, tE^W. Coast . . Wanbeek Boads, Africa,' £.Coast . . . .: Waterloo B., Africa, S., Coaat Wei-hai-vei Haib., Yel;' uw oca • • • • • Wdkakj h., AnstraUa, a. Coast . . • • . Wert Bin, Anstralia, E.{ Cwrt H. M. 9 40 12 15 12 19 1 17 7 15 4 45 5 50 irr. 11 30 6 9 80 irr. 9 9 30 2 80 6 10 15 11 20 7 8 15 7 10 10 80 4 80 4 9 80 7 30 10 20 BisE. ! Place. Spgs. Nps.'; ft. 14 16 15-24 3-10 7-13 12 44 1 2 15 3 12 7 154 154 9 12 8 7 9 7 9 5 3-4 9 8-12 24 High Water, FuU and Change. ft. 7 9 ! 6 6 7 7; 3 i i i West Biver, China, £. Coast, tee Si Kiang. Western Port, Australia, S. Coast .... Whampoa ( In March (Docks), i In April I China ( InKay&Junej White Dog Ids., China,! £. Coast . . . .1 Wide Bay, Australia, K Coast William Port, New Zea- land Willis Islets, Australia, £. Coast .... WiUoughby Cape, Kan-| garoo Id., Australia .1 Wilson Promontory, Aus-j tralia, S. Coast . . Woodlark Id., Louisiade Ardhip. Wreck Beef (Bird Islet), Australia, E. Coast . Wuohu, Si Kiang, China, E. Coast .... WusungBlyer (entrance), Yang-t8e-Kiang,China, E. Coast (Pheasant Point) Wynkoops Bav, Java Yang ho, Yellow Sea Yang-tse Kiang (entr.), Chin% E. Coast . . Yedo Bay (Yoku-hama), Japan ! Yoku-hama, Yedo Bay,{ Japan Sea . . . York C, Australia, E. Coast I YnngB., Chuihae, China,; E. Coast . . . .i — Ning-po-fu, China, E. Coast . .' Yung-hing Bay, Japan Yura Harbour, Japan Sea' Zambezi Biver (Pearlld.), Africa, E. Coast . .: Zanzibar, Africa^ E. Cst., (Channel), Africa, E. Coast . . Zaudzi, Mayotta, Comoro IsUinds Zebti Port, Filipmas . .! Zeyla» Afiica^ E. Coast .1 H. V. 1 10 1 40 1 16 30 9 9 14 12 45 8 4 10 2 7 15 8 3 80 85 5 15 12 6 6 11 15 11 20 I 1 Bias. Spgs. Nps. 5 20 6 5 4 30 5 20 4 15 4 10 12 7 15 ft. 8 7-8 18 10 8 6 6 10 4 6 1-14 15 18 44 6 15 64 6i 10 124 9 i\ 12-15 10 11 12 7 84 104 8 4 10 4} 7 Digitized by LjOOQIC 206 CURRENTS OF THE OCEAN. CHAPTER VIII. CUHRKNTS IK THE INDIAN OCEAN, CHINA SEA, AND WSSTESN PACIFIC. X23* Onrreiits an the diMuiels through whioh ihe waters of the ooMn oiroukte, and their strength and direction depend ooncurrentlj on the action of a varietj of caoiies, to each of whioh it would be difficult to assign the exact portion of effect belonging to it. The rotation of the earth on its axis, the difference of temperature between the tropical and polar seas, evaporation, the direction of the wind, whether perennial, periodical, or variable — ^these are the chief agencies, sometimes and in some places acting together, at other times and in other places opposing each other ; henoe it is not difficult to understand that some currents must be toarm, others cold; some are turftioe, others under currents; while some sre periodiceU, and others variable, changing with the periodical or variable winds, now flowing to augment the strength and breadth of a constant current—now tending to oppose, though unable to coun- teract it. Another distinction of an important character in connexion with currents is their classification (according to their apparent origm) into drift and stream. Every constant or very prevalent wind (such, for example, as the Trades) that sweeps the ocean, drives before it the sur&ce water in the form of a drift current ; impelled to leeward, it moves on until it meets some obstruction, all the while tending to pro- duce an accumulation of flowing water, which eventuallj gives rise to a eiream current The drift current is generally shallow, and its velocity will depend greatly on the force of the wind and its angle of incidence on the sur&ce : the obstacle opposing its onward progress may be land or a stream current already formed. A stream current is the flowing off of the accumulated waters of a drift current in the effort to restore the equilibrium of the general surface-level of the ocean, and it may with their mean ^inction and velocity— will be useful for ready reference :— Vortb AtUuitlo Ooefta. Fbincipal Cubbents. ^uatorial current Goayana current Mean Direction. W. N.W. Corrent of the Caribbean Sea and Gulf of Mexico GulfStream Carrent of North Africa Guinea current (along coast) .... SeCONDABY CUBBElfTS. Cozrentof Bay of Biscay Bennel'a current ........ Poftugal current ...••••. Current at Strait of Gibraltar (entrance) Drift of the N.E. Trade-wind . . . Arctic current (American coast) . • • N.— N.K.-&E. S. E.S.E.&E. E. N.W. S.S.B.&S.E. E. S.W. , & S.W. Rate. 30 to 50m. per day. 20 to 30 „ 16 CO, 30, 20 M 20 20 6 to 10 10 to 20 16 12 10 24 Sotttli AflAatic Pbincipal Cubrknts. Mean Direction, Brazil current S. Sontfaeru connecting current E.S.E. & E. , Current on W. coast of A&ica .... N. Antarctic drift current E.N.E. <& E. . Secondaby Cubbents. DriaoftheS.E.Trade.winda . . . . N.W.&W.N.W. , Current between the Guinea and Equa- torial currents N.W. Cape Horn cnrrent N.E. Xadifta Oeean. Pbikcipal Cubbents. Mean Direction. ^uatorial current W. Mozambique current S.W. Agolhas current S.W. Counter current S. of Agulhas current . E. Counter current of S. Indian Ocean . . £. Sbcokdabt Cubbents. S.W.bTaQeh of Equatorial current • . S.W. Cunent of S. Australia E. ^7 ot Bengal and Arabian Sea, Tariable wi& ^e Monsoons — Kate. 20 15 15 10 to 25 10 12 18 to 30 Rate. 12, 16, & 22 18 to 28 20 to 80 30 very variable 30 26 to 14 Digitized by L:.oogle 210 CURRENTS OF THE INDIAN OCEAN. Vortb Paoillo Ocean. Pbikcifal Cubbents. Mean Direction. Equatorial current W. Kuro Siwa, or Black Stream .... N.E. Californian current S.E. Sbcsovdaby Cubbbnts. KamtBchatka current N.W. Behring'a current N. Equatorial counter current E. Soatli Faotflo Ooeaa. Pbikcifal Cubbbnts. Mean Direction. Equatorial current W. Current on S.W. coast of Australia . . S. Counter current of S. Pacific .... E. Antarctic drift E.N.E. Humboldt or Peru current N. Secondaby Cubbekts. Mentor's current N.E. Current of Cape Horn S.B, Rate. 30m. per day. 30 to 50 99 16 !• 8 «> U »> 18 »» Rate. 24 99 12 99 20 SI ry variable 15 »« 16 f» 18 99 Special Rehabks on thb Cubbbnts of the Indian Ocean. 13&. Bquatorlal Ourrent. — The Equatorial Current in the Indian Ocean is only found S. of the Equator, its northern limit coinciding with the equatorial limit of the S.E. Trade-wind— namely, the parallel of 10° S. On the meridian of lOOP E. its southern limit reaches as far as Lat. 25° S., but, as the current advances westward, it inclines to the northward, decreasing in breadth until, on the meridian of Rod- rigues, it does not extend beyond the parallel of 20^ S. Off this island it separates into two branches — one flowing S.W., and the other N.W. The S.W. branch of the Equatorial Current entirely surrounds Mauritius, and its northern edge, passing S. of Reunion, reaches the S. coast of Madagascar ; here its breadth is 450 to 500 miles, and its temperature 76° Fahr. From thence it flows S.W., to form the Agulhas current, which commences S. of Natal : the S.W. current on this parallel is not more than about 70 or 80 miles across, and its temperature has been found as high as 70° or 72°. Ofi* Reunion the velocity of the current varies from 10 to 15 miles a day : off the S. point of Madagascar it has been found to run from 40 to 50 miles. The western branch of the Equatorial Current runs W.N.W. and N.W., and passing round the N. end of Madagascar, strikes the African coast near Cape Del- gado (Lat. 10° 41' S.) ; here it divides into two branches — one, during the S.E. Monsoon, flows northward past Zanzibar towards Cape Guardafui, but during the N.W. Monsoon it is deflected to the eastward before reaching the Equator, — the other branch enters the Mozambique Channel, where, as the well-known Mozam- bique Cubbent, it flows along the E. coast of Africa. The mean breadth of this portion oflhe Equatorial Current is 360 miles, and off Cape Amb^ its mean rate is Digitized by LjOOQIC _l CURRENTS OP THE INDIAN OCEAN. 211 aboai 50 miles a day ; bat it has occasionally been foand running from 60 to 70 milefr— this strength of the current, however, never extends beyond 60 miles north- ward of Cape Amber: its temperature is about 78° Fahr. The velocity of the Equatorial Current in mid-ocean is very variable ; sometimes it attains a rate of 20 to 22 miles a day, but its mean is about 12 or 16 miles. The temperature of this current, from its origin on the eastern side of the ocean Qotil it reaches the meridian of Eodrigues, gradually increases — varying from 72° tQ 82° Fahr. over that extent The following *' bottle papers" indicate (approximately) the set of the northern part of the Equatorial Current in the Indian Ocean : — (1) A bottle thrown from the Futta SuUan, June 10th, 1853, in Lat. 6° lO' S., Long. 90° 4(y E., was picked up at Brava, E. coast of Africa, in Lat. V f S., Long. 44° 3' E., in 1856. (2) A bottle thrown from the Panther, Feb. 3rd, 1857, in Lat 11° 19' S,, Long. 84° 21' E., was picked np between Brava and Juba Islands, E. coast of Africa, in July, 1857. Xsa. acosambiqiie (3iivreBt.«-The Mozambique Current, as just observed, is derived from the Equatorial Current, and follows the line of the African coast from N.N.W. to S.S.E., until off Cape Padrone it unites with the S.W. branch of the Bqoatonal Current : off Mozambique this current has been known to set S.S. by E. 4 knots an hour ; off Cape Corrientes it has been reported as setting from 70 to 90 and even 120 miles a day; but these are probably extreme cases, — ^the mean velocity from Cape Pelgado to Cape Corrientes may be estimated at from 30 to 40 miles a day; it has been found running 40 miles a day off Natal, at the distance of 20 miles off shore. It is said that this current is stronger during the S.E. than the N.W. Monsoon — owing to the accumulation of water from the Equatorial Current which is at that season forced by the wind towards the African shore; but this is uncer* tain. The temperature of the Mozambique Current ranges from 70° to 75° Fahr. 133. CoiTNTES CuBBEKTS ABOUND Madaoascab. — ^In that part of the ocean comprised between the Agulhas Current, the S. W. branch of the Equatorial Current, and the S.W. coast of Madagascar, the cun*ents are oflen very variable, sometimes setting E.S.E. and S.E. between Cape Corrientes and Madagascar, but generally N. and N.E. near the eastern edge of the Agulhas Current, between it and the S.W. branch of the Equatorial Current. These counter currents sometimes attain a Tek)city of 15 to 20 miles a day. It has been observed that the S.W. branch of the Equatorial Current flows round Kodrignes and Mauritius, yet does not reach B^union ; off this island it appears to •end offiihoots setting N.W., N.N.W., and N. In the area comprised between the E. coast of Madagascar and the bifurcation of the Equatorial Current, the set of the waters is not only variable in direction but in strength aUo — greatly depending on the prevalent wind of the season. In the vicinity of the Comoro Islands the currents are uncertain both in strength ttd direetion : to the northward of them, however, a north-westerly onrrent nmning ^^om 12 to 18 miles a day may be expected, while to the southward of them an Mitetiy current is not unfrequent ; through the group the current is westerly ; but gi^ caQtion is required hereabouts, as the set may be 2 or 3 knots either wayol^ 212 CURRENTS OF THE INDIAN OCEAN. On the W. coast of Madagascar a weak northerly current generally prevails, as ia also the case in the middle of the Mozambique Channel southward of Lat. 18^ S. 13ft. Affulluui OnrreBt. — On a parallel between Port Natal and Cape Padrone the union of the S.W. branch of the Equatorial Current and that through the Mozambique Channel forms the well-known Agulhas Current, flowing at first near the shore, and thence following the course of the edge of the Agulhat hank — but passing over its southern extreme; near the meridian of 20^ E. its velocity is greatly diminished, and it breaks into two branches— one running to the north- westward into the Atlantic, and the other (obstructed by the Antarctic drift) turns to the eastward as the counter current of the Indian Ocean. The breadth of the Agulhas Current is from 30 to 60 miles ; but this as well as its velocity greatly depends on the winds and seasons. Off Cape Recife its rate is sometimes 100 miles a day, and fi'equently 70 or 80 miles, but by the time it has reached the meridian of 23° or 24P E. it has diminished to 50 or 60 miles a day. A strong gale from the W. or S.W., lasting for some time, may check the velocity or the Agulhas Current by diverting it earlier into the counter current of the Indian Ocean, but it runs all the stronger afterwards ; generally, however, it continues its course in the teeth of the gale, producing thereby a dangerous walUlike sea. The Agulhas Current, although perceptible on the bank, is comparatirely feeble ; and near the African coast — especially between Capes Hangklip and Agulhas — there is an e^terly set. The temperature of the Agulhas Current is higher than that of the waters on either side of it — N. or S. — ^so that it may easily be known whether a vessel ia in it or not. WiLKKS* remarks that — " On our track from the China seas towards the Cape of Good Hope, we met with but little current until we approached the E. coast of Africa. We had, during this part of our voyage, an opportunity of trying the deep- sea temperature daily, which confirmed the impression that this portion of the ocean is but little liable to submarine streams, " On approaching the E. coast of Africa, we found ourselves at first influenced by the Polar Stream, then, as we neared the coast, by the Equatorial Stream that sets down the Mozambique Channel. This stream is usually confined to narrow limits, but at some seasons becomes strong enough to throw its waters in a S.W. direction beyond the Agulhas bank. There is little doubt that this Equatorial Stream is superficial, overlying the Southern Polar Stream, a portion of which latter, touching the Agulhas bank, is forced up by that obstruction to the surface. This is evident by its reducing the temperature of the waters, on soundings at the Cape, to 62^. This Polar Stream is divided by the Cape : the eastern part sets along the E. coast of Africa as a^ submarine stream, and on reaching the island of Madagascar is found to flow N., along itl^g the S. ooost of the same continent — as the Australian CuKBENT-^eventually P<«es into the Pacific. The velocity of this counter cun'ent is very variable— depending greatly on the ^iwls; on the meridian of 30° E. it sometimes runs from 30 to 40 miles a day, and 214 CURRENTS OF THE INDIAN OCEAN. its bnftdtli is ofken from 200 to 250 miles between the parallels of 88^ and 42° S. As it advances eastward it probably spreads out, and thereby diminishes its rate, but it has been fonnd to run with considerable strength between the island of St. Paul and Cape Leeuwin during the Austral summer. The north-easterly current on the S.W. coast of Australia sometimes runs from 20 to 30 miles a day. The temperature of this current is as variable as its velocity. The following "bottle papers" indicate (approximately) the general set of the current in Great Southern Ocean, between Cape Horn and Australia : — (1) A bottle thrown from H.M. Antarctic exploring ship Erebus (Capt. Jam£S Boss), April 4th, 1842, in Lat. 53° 39' S., Long. 60° 47' W., was picked up at Cape Liptrap, S. coast of Australia, Lat. 38° 55' S., Long. 145° 67' E., in September, 1845. (2) A bottle thrown from the Amharatoa, August 20th, 1845, in Lat. 38° 31' S., Long. 27° 36' E., was picked up 10 miles W. of Cape Bridgewater, S. coast of Australia, Lat. 38° 24' S., Long. 141° 12' E., May, 1851. (3) A bottle thrown from the Ocean Chief, Jan. 1st, 1857, in Lat. 42° 40' S., Long. 42° 32' W., was picked up at sea by the Gideon ITowland, in Lat. 39° 50' S., Long. 36° 35' E., Dec. 16th, 1857. Mi.UBY,* speaking of the S, and S.JS, drift current of the Indian Ocean, says that " it seems to be an overflow of the great intertropical cauldron df India ; seeking to escape thence, it works its way polarward more as a drift than as a current. It is to the Mozambique Current what the northern flow of warm waters in the Atlantic is to the Gulf Stream. This Indian overflow is very large, and finds its way S., mid- way between Africa and Australia, and appears to lose itself in passing round a sort of Sabgjlsso Sea, thinly strewed with patches of weed. We need not be surprised at such a vast flow of warm water as the currents in the S.W. area of the Indian Ocean indicate, when we recollect that this ocean is land-locked on the N., and that th6 temperature of its waters is frequently as high as 80° Fahr." He has also marked on his '* Chart of Sea Drift'* an area extending from Lat. 40° to 50° S., and between Long. 15° and 107° E., indicating the flow of this warm water from the middle of the Indian Ocean. But whether the weed is derived exclusively from that ocean, or whether (as appears most probable) it may not be the result of the two currents— one from the Indian and the other from the Antarctic Ocean — bearing their united drift eastward, is not well-established ; certain it is, however, that sea- weed is found thereabouts in large quantities. The same authority says that on the polar side of 35° S. " 146 log-books make mention of it between the meridians of 40° and 120° E. ; but it most abounds along this line between the meridians of 45° and 65° E., and between the parallels of 42° and 48° S. Abstracts of the log-books of the following vessels show where this seaweed has been passed by our own Australian traders : — 1853 — Lord Auckland— Caipt Thompson. Jan. 2nd— Lat. 44° 4' S. Long. 45° 52' E. \ ,i 3rd ... 44 53 49 4 [ Water disGolouml--^seawee Mohammed, are various all the year; no particular direction can be assigned to them. It may be generally remarked, they set with the prevailing winds, which, when strong, cause a current of sometimes 20 and 40 miles a day. If the wind continues long in the same quarter, they sometimes set against it, which can be seen by the short, deep swell, in a N.W. wind, against which the best sailing vessels make nothing for the first and second days, when all at once they unexpectedly get to windward. Southerly winds, which sometimes prevail from October to May, generally bring a current from 20 to 30 miles a day with them. After a north-wester has been blowing, and light winds prevail, a current generally sets to the northward, more especially on the Arabian coast ; on which account the Arabian side, with the northerly winds, is the best to work on, and not the Egyptian coast, which the old navigators preferred on account of its being more clear of shoals. On the Arabian coast a vessel will be able to take advantage of the winds, if she is near the reefs and coast, which winds almost always bear several points more from the land as the night advances, and particularly in the early part of the morning, and are well open to seaward during the day. This is not the case on the Egyptian coast, when northerly, N.E., and easterly winds prevail ; at times, from November to March, they cause a strong current to the westward, and as the wind becomes light, it sets back again to the eastward." Iftl. The following additional remarks on the Cukbents in the Red Sea, in the Gulf of Aden, and on the Ababian Coast, are by Captain S. B. Haines, I.N., who was engaged for a considerable time surveying those parts z* " It is an established fact that the water is raised to a higher level in the northern part« of the Red Sea during December, January, February, and March, from the force of the strong southerly winds that then blow up that sea ; and that in July, August, and September, it is several feet lower from the force of the strong N.X.W. winds blowing down towards the Straits. This fact is proved by the ' Durable' shoal, which, though situated in the middle of the sea, is at one time sufficiently dry to have a tent pitched upon it, and at another season is covered with water. The same difference of elevation may be also observed on the coral reefs near Jiddah. " On the Arabian coast, from Ras Isolette to the Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb, in shore, during the strength of the N.E. Monsoon, the current runs with the wind. In March and April (and sometimes as early as February) this current changes, and it flows towards Isolette during the S.W. Monsoon. In April, I have measured the ** Jour. Roy. Geographical Society,* ^^iti^rziai^^OOgle CURBENTS OP THE INDIAN OCEAN. 221 CDTTent with tlie patent leg, and the vessel at anchor, and found it setting up tlie eoast at the rate of 2 miles 'per hoar, and much faster off the Palinums shoal. In May, Jane, and July, I have also measured the current at different stations on the Arabian side hetween Aden and the Straits, when at anchor, in from 6 to 10 fathoms, and found it 2 and 2^ miles E.N.E., varying in rapidity with the strength of the wind. Daring the N.E. Monsoon it sets with equal velocity into the Red Sea. This would materially tend to prove the effect of pressure ; hut strange as it appears, though the wind is the same on the S6m&]i* coast, or the 8. side of the Gulf of Aden, during the N.E. Monsoon, the currents are sometimes running in a precisely contrary direction without any apparent cause. This led me, at one time, to imagine that the narrow entrance to the large body of water within the Red Sea (which is, moreover, reduced by the islands called the Brothers) forms a kind of barrier or point of deflection ; that the current from the Mozambique channel rushing past Bas 'Aseir at 3 or 4 miles per hour, bifurcates at that point, one branch going northwards, while the other, diminished in rapidity by the absence of the strong ■outherly wind, sweeps along westward as far as the Straits, when being influenced by the current out of the Red Sea, it turns up eastwards, gradually recovering its former velocity, as it again comes under the influence of the Monsoon. While the two co«i»tg forming the Gulf of 'Aden have their own currents, the central part of the sea has others running in every direction, excidpt during strong breezes, when pres- sure undoubtedly influences the whole. Thus, for instance, a vessel in July, crossing over from Burnt Island with a strong westerly breeze, will find the current change from W. to N.W., N., N.E., £.N.E.y increasing in strength as she approaches the Arabian coast, and will probably be prevented from fetching it within twenty miles of 'Aden under a press of canvas. During the N.E. Monsoon, of course, a contrary rule prevaib ; and a vessel leaving Berberah for 'Aden will work up some 16 or 20 miles £. of Siyarah before she ventures to stretch across to the Arabian coast. " A vessel running up her northing on the east side of the African coast during the S.W. Monsoon, and wishing to stand for Aden or the Red Sea, should be very careful for the last two or three degrees, as N.N.E. and N.E. currents will be met with. I have found a current of three or four miles an hour, which, as you round the Cape, sweepa more eastward towards Socotra ; in a sailing vessel, therefore, the Cape should be rounded close, otherwise she may lose her passage, as I have known to be done by a fast-sailing vessel. *' Northwards of Tahl Far'un and the Brothers, from June to September, I have always experienced a strong N. or N.E. current, which renders it difficult to fetch the anchorages on the north side of Socotra. In July, when in the latitude of the north side of Socotra, and only I^ degrees west of R4s 'Ase'ir, I have had light airs and calms, with a current 58 miles due S., while in previous years, and in almost the same position, I have found a N. current, which gradually drew eastward as the vessel stood to the S.E. ** On the north side of Socotra m March and April, I invariably found a strong W. • lUt current on the S6m4Ii eout in the K.E. Monsoon is very nneertain. The nafives lay, that when the eurrent on the Arabian coast \b running one way, that on the Bomili coast is Kcnerally opposite. In the N.E. Monsoon veuels hare met itrong northeriy enrrenU when to the nonhvard, or rather when lUs Aseir was open, which, as toon as the cape wai ihnt in, chaaged to the westward. Again, eorrenta freqnentl/ let to the eastward, between ZeOa and Bcitcnb, daring the N.E. Monsoon. Digitized by LjOOQIC 222 CURRENT^ OP THE INDIAN OCEAN. eurrent, so much so that I ha^e known a fast 10-gan brig take twenty days to make Tamarfdah from Xolonsir, and she then succeeded only by standing over to the Arabian coast, and working up along it eastwards before she stood across ; and I was obliged to anchor my vessel at the first place where I could obtain anchorage ground , and proceed in one of my boats to Tamaridah, throughout March, owing to the lig^ht airs and strong currents. *' The true cause, therefore, of these currents appears to me to be principally the pressure occasioned by the prevailing monsoons, increasing and decreasing in the same ratio as the winds, and influenced in some degree by the moon's age, and consequent change of the tides, which are by no means regular." Ifta. CnrreBts of the yenlaa Onlfl — From May to September a current flows into the Persian Gulf, and from September to May it sets outwards. In March and April, during the little shemal, when a northerly set prevails, a vessel working to windward may make good 20 or 25 miles in twenty-four hours. From September to April the current sets southward in the space between the Persian coast off Ras Task and the opposite coast of Arabia ; and it is very seldom at this period that the current is found setting towards the Persian Gulf. From March to September, though northerly winds prevail in the gulf, the current in the strait of Oman sets against the wind with so much strength that a vessel might make 20 miles a day to windward. In October, on the coast of Persia, with the N.E. Monsoon, the current flows Southward till March ; in April it changes with the S.W. Monsoon, and then flows Northward. When the. S.W. Monsoon is at its height the current sets rapidly to the Eastward along the Persian coast. CjIPT. C. G. Constablb and Liextt. A. W. Stipfb, I.N., in the Persian Gulf Pilot, observe that — '' The greater part of the currents supposed to exist in the gulf are probably tides ; a vessel crossing the gulf in six or eighteen hours would, of course, attribute the error in her position to a current. Currents, which are always very weak, are pro- bably confined to the northern end of the gulf, where the tides are less strong than near the entrance, and during a north-wester or south-easter, are replaced by a slight current setting with the wind ; after the strength of the north-wester is over, a slight counter-current may be experienced. '^ McClueb states, and others have repeated afber him, that on the fourth day of a shemal a current will be found setting 1 knot per hour against the wind, so that a vessel will be able to make good way to windward ; but this statement requires further corroboration, at any rate asserting it as an invariable occurrence. " On the Bdtneh coast, particularly near Muskat, where the tide stream is imper- ceptible, there is, during the summer months (when the S.W. Monsoon prevails outside), a set towards the N.W. not exceeding 1 knot per hour. Ships coming out of the gulf should not then attempt to work down close to this coast During the winter months, when north-westers prevail in the gulf, there is an almost continual set from J to 1 knot per hour, or even more, to the south-eastward, so that a ship would find it very difficult to beat up to Muskat near the coast.*'* • These remarks on the oorrents are written with a Aill knowledge of the Wind and Cnrrent Charts published in 1866 by the E.I.C., iVom which they differ widely. Digitized by L^OOQlC CUBBENTS OF THE INDIAN OCEAN. 223 &M« Onvrenti on tlie iVest Coast of Blndottan.— From November to lUnhr—tke period of ike N,E. Monsoon — the currents along the northern portion aT thiB coast are generally weak and variable, but from Calicut to Cape Comorin thej Kt to the S.E.-ward with a velocity of 20 to 30 miles a day. In March and April, when strong N.W. winds are prevalent, a B.E.-ly current mns along the entire coast. A northerly current is not unfrequent between Cape Oomovin and Anjenga during January. Dmring ike 8, W, Monsoon a sonUierly current is generally experienced, varying from 5 to 10 miles a day on the northern part of the coast, and increasing to 20 or 90 miles a day along the southern part from Cochin to Cape Comorin ; off Bombay this wutherly current is rarely found, and to the northward of this port, when the wind is strong from the southward, a northerly current may be expected. The set of the stream from the overflow of the large rivers is first from the coast, and then to the southward. The Ikdus discharges an immense volume of water into the Arabian Sea during the flood season — ^between July and September ; the current, which is at first south, diverges to the S.S.W. and S.S.E., and attains a breadth of 250 miles, but it is not vbollj loat in the general oceanic set until its seaward course has reached 300 miles. &ft«j Near the &aooaaiTea» during the S.W. Monsoon, S.-ly and S.W.-ly cur- rents are found, particularly in March. Among the islands the direction of the enrrent is 8.S.W. ; in the channel separating them from the Malabar coast the set is about 8.8.E. In the NiNB Deobeb Channei. the current generally runs S.W., and rarely to the northward. In February, March, and April, its direction may be S.S.E. The velocity of the current during this season between^ the Laocadives and the ooast varies from 20 to 26 miles a day ; amongst the islands it is from 18 to 24 miles a day. From 40 to 60 leagues westward of these islands, W. and W.S.W. currents are prevalent, flowing at the rate of 8 to 12 miles a day. However, between the islands, a northerly current is occasionally found flowing at the rate of 8 or 10 miles a day. 1€S« About the BCaldeoreo the current more generally sets to the eastward than in any other direction, but modified by local causes. When the S.W. Monsoon blows in its strength — during June, July, and August — the current sets easterly in the vicinity of the North Atoll ; while at the same time, but generally in July and August, the set is W.N.W. near the southern part of the group — ^in the Equatorial Channel and about the South Atoll. To the eastward of the No^th Atoll, generally in March and April, it runs W. ; and on the contrary, near the South Atoll, between the Equator and the parallel of 4^ or 5^ S. Lai, it sets E.N.E. ; this current has often a velocity of 60 to 65 miles a day, but sometimes it is weak and variable. In May it runs strong to the east- ward near the Equator, sometimes setting at the rate of 60 to 70 miles a day near the South Atoll, between the parallels of 2'' N. and 2^ S. In the Equatorial Channel and in the latitude of the South Atoll, from October to Jannaiy, the current flows to the eastward; while between the parallels of 3^ and 6^ N., and between the Maldeeves and Ceylon, it sets westward with great strength. ' . Digitized by LjOOQIC 221. CURRENTS OP THE INDIAN OCEAN. Among the ulands N. of the Equator the current runs S.W., and among those situated S. of the Equator it runs S. and S.S.E. at this season of the year. During the N,E. Monsoon, but especially in November and December, on ^e meridian of Point de Galle, the current set^ at the rate of 30 to 35 miles a day, decreasing in strength on its Equatorial edge. 1€6. Corraats in tb« CKilf of Blaiiaar.<— Throughout the Gulf of Manaar aud off Colombo the currents are uncertain during the N.E, Monsoon: sometimes, however, they have been found setting to the S.W. at a rate of 18 or 20 miles a day. During the 8, W, Monsoon a current runs into the gulf at the rate of 8 miles a day, and setting northward, follows the direction of the coasts into Palk Bay. Qenerally there is the greatest variation in the strength and direction of the currents during the change of the Monsoons. 1€T. Corraata rouad Cesrloa.-— On the E. coast of Ceylon, during the N,E. Moneoon, but especially in October and November, a strong current sets to the southward along the coast ; rounding the S. coast it takes a westerly direction as far as Point de Galle, and sometimes as far as Colombo. Its velocity has been esti- mated to average 40 to 4i8 miles a day; and on rare occasions it has been found to amount to 94 miles. On the W. coast of Ceylon during the same season the currents are very variable. Sometimes a fresh N.N.E. wind blowing for several days will produce a moderately strong current setting northward along the coast ; this is probably a continuation of that which on the E. coast takes a southerly direction, and on the S. coast of the island flows to the westward. » During the 8, W. Monsoon the current flows to the eastward on tlie S. coast of Ceylon, nud northward on its eastern coast : its velocity is never so great as during the N.E. Monsoon — at least near the coast of the island — and it is less in proportion as it approaches the shore ; off the N.E. part of the island it has been estimated to run from 10 to 20 miles a day. From May to September no current is found on the E. const of the island ; while out at sea the set may be strong to N.N.E. and N.N.W. When the westerly winds are in full force, there is little or no current within 15 or 18 miles of the land. Capt. W. J. S. PuLLEN, when surveying the dangers on the S.E. coast of Ceylon (in May, June, and July, 1860), found ** the currents in the vicinity of the Gbeat and Little Ba.ssa.s Reefs alike remarkable for their rapidity and eccentricity. In the line of and between the two reefs, that is, about 6 miles off shore, during the S.W. Monsoon, the current sets along the coast to the N.E. at the rate of 1 to 2 miles per hour, only diverging from this, its apparently natural course, when within the influence of the broken ground of the reefs. The rate appears to be influenced by the strength of the wind, and is, consequently, most irregular. " Towards the close of July, when running a meridian distance to the Great Bassaii from Galle, notwithstanding that he had allowed fully 10 miles easterly current, he found that he had drifted outside the line of the Bassas Reefs ; and at daylight^ instead of having them in sight, was at least 10 miles to the S.E. of them — no bottom with 100 fathoms of line; set by a current 26( miles in 14 hours, or 1'85 the hour, on about a S. by E. course. Nor was this the strongest cuiTcnt Digitized by LjODQIC CUREENTS OP THE INDIAN OCEAN. 226 experienced, nor in the only place. About half-way between the two reefs a current of 2^ knot8, on an E. by N. course, was found. " Midway between the line of the reefs and the shore the direction of the cur- rent assumes a more northerly trend, and the rate is reduced, until it at length beeomes absorbed in an in-shore eddy, which was almost invariably found setting sbng the coast to the S.W. at the rate of half a mile per hour. " Between Point de Galle and the Bassas the current sets along the line of coast, the rates varying at different times, without any apparent cause, from 1 to 2 miles per hour, hut said at times to attain the rate of even 4 knots. To the northward of the Little fiassas, close in on the eastern shore, a decided southerly set was expe- rieneed at the rate of nearly a mile an hour, which increased to a velocity of 2 knots near Trincomalie." From September to March the southerly current is generally strong off Trin- comalie, but especially so during October and November, when it sometimes runs from 50 to 70 miles a day. 148. under the name of ike BMiel Cnrreiit, takes a N.N.W. direction, passing between the New Hebrides and Solomon's Group, and thence by the south coast of New Guinea towards Tonnes' Straitsi Its average velocity is 8 or 10 miles a day. Within the Barrier ree& it is not so much the current as the tidal streams which requii^ attention. About the meridian of 170^ E. another branch declines to the southward, and on the parallel of Sandy Cape is well marked as the C u wo n t of the aa«t Ooaat of Australia. Its course ia auccessively W« 61 <•• 48 35 • •• 49 30 • «. 48 14 ,,, 48 22 *•• 60 30 • «• 61 89 • •• 62 • •• 61 48 ... 47 40 1866 ... 50 14 ... 61 1859 ... 46 1773 Janaary 61 1841 ... 65 40 Long. E. DSSCBIPTXOV. 1850 34 50 34 11 13 16 15 la 24 24 30 31 31 32 34 37 ST 37 40 43 46 46 48 49 60 64 60 61 62 64 74 42 43 47 59 173 18 20 »{' og ( Seventeen ioebergs, daring the ( day; air66<'; Kater45''. . 21 An iceberg. Thirty-three icebergs* , 39 Twelve icebergs. . 10 Two large icebergs. .^cA small iceberg; air 64P ; ^ ( water 41°. Ice. One large and many small icebergs. 10 Two icebergs. . 17 Two large icebergs. 49 An iceberg. Four icebergs. 27 A large iceberg. 40 A large iceberg. Three icebergs. . 21 Many icebergs. . 14 Two icebergs. 34 Three large icebergs. 43 A large iceberg. 43 Three large icebergs. 31 Two icebergs. Three large icebergs. 14 A large iceberg. • 28 A large iceberg. 5 Two small icebergs. 66 Two large icebergs. 41 An iceberg 200 fit. high. A large iceberg. 34 A large iceberg. 30 An iceberg. 2 A large iceberg. 22 Apieceoficci g^ I Four large icebergs ) one 700ft. I high. 44 A large iceberg. A large iceberg. Icebergs. g ( A stream of ice, S. by E. and ( N.byW. ' A piece of ice, very flat, 30 ft. 30 j long, 100 ft. thick, in sight ( of Cape of Good Hq>e. OQ ( An iceberg seen from the Cape t of Good Hope. IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. 247 Datx. Lat. S. O 1 1851 January 61 27 61 83 ... 62 82 ... - 52 60 ••• 63 10 Long. E. Descbiptiov. 1855 1856 .. 53 30 56 48 56 35 45 33 45 45 47 47 15 50 47 20 4S 15 1 49 10 48 30 49 44 25 49 4 45 31 48 50 1 49 10 5 49 10 1 50 5 49 41 45 30 45 26 47 48 50 20 50 11 1 31 37 43 46 54 83 16i 88 42 15 21 37 38 41 41 10 to 15 14 15 17 19 21 21 to 24 25 to 27 29 to 31 37 40 45 46 49 113 113 to 118 18 14 ( An ice island much decayed ; 37 1 large fields of ice to the ( southward. 47 Much ice. 7 Much ice. 3 Much ice. 46 Much ice. ^(A large tabular-shaped ice ( island. Much broken ice 5 many tabular ice islands all high and large, and fresh from the barrier; immense fields of ice to the ^ southward. Much ice, in large fields. o« ( Three icebergs, 100 ft. long, I 150 ft. high. Icebergs. Icebergs. An iceberg, 200 ft. high. Icebergs. Numerous icebergs. 0) Q > Thirteen large icebergs. Icebergs. r7 A large iceberg. Three icebergs. A large iceberg, surrounded by large pieces. A large iceberg. Seven icebergs. I Six icebergs. OCA large iceberg, and some loose ( ice. ( Several small icebergs, one very ( large one ; much loose ice. 35 A large iceberg. 29 A very large icebei^. 30 Numerous icebergs. » ( One large iceberg, and a large ( piece. 28 A large iceberg. Q Fifty-five icebergs. { Eleven icebergs, and some loosd ^^ ^^ Digitized by LriOOgle 46 14 10 20 6 248 ICE AND ICEBERGS Date. Lat. S. Long. E o / o ; 1857 January 60 62 17 39 62 16 23 40 60 30 .. 32 4 60 18 36 60 • 10 39 16 60 36 61 40 1859 ... 1774 February 1776 ... 1840 1848 1849 1866 1866 ... 1774 March 1839 ... 1840 ... 1849 ... 1855 1856 46 8 63 30 67 20 64 26 62 60 50 56 30 48 49 30 60 46 49 10 47 13 60 46 46 69 63 17 48 30 66 3 49 64 60 44 62 18 62 39 63 14 52 to 53 20 53 14 63 46 60 48 12 48 16 to 67 60 47 11 6 4 24 26 120 146 37 41 107 134 30 20 107 134 12 11 14 98 to 102 140 10 36 39 110 5 14 to 23 20 28 3 24 25 Dbscbiftion. r A large iceberg, dridingnortli.- ward. Temperature of air, [ 47^; water, 37°. Two large icebergs. A small iceberg. A small iceberg. An iceberg. A small iceberg, which sepa- rated into several pieces. / An iceberg, bearing E.N.E!. 54 < about 20 m. Temperature ( of air and water, 46°. 36 Three icebergs. An iceberg. Numerous icebergs. Two icebergs. Icebergs. Icebergs. 21 30 25 30 ( An iceberg, 6 to 7 miles in 15 16 60 30 extent An iceberg. An iceberg. Icebergs. A largo iceberg. Several icebergs. An iceberg. Icebergs. An iceberg. Icebergs. Two icebergs. ^ I Numerous icebergs. Icebergs. 51 An iceberg. 16 Many icebergs and kelp. 28 An iceberg. 9 Iceberg, very high. 4 Many ice islands. 41 An iceberg, 960 feet high. ^ I Numerous icebergs. 44 Nearly beset in the ice. A few pieces of ice. 11 Icebergs. Five very large icebergs. 23 Serenj^b^^^oogig IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. 219 Datb. Lat. S. Long. E. Descbiftion. 1856 March o 48 4 o 29 22 Several icebergs. • • • 46 37 30 Icebergs. • • • 49 21 37 35 One very large iceberg. • • • 51 ... 51 'A very large iceberg; much loose ice. 47 26 54 38 Three icebergs. Air, 51°; t water, 38°. • •• 47 20 55 Three icebergs, 100 ft. high. 1857 ... 42 30 66 Two large pieces of ice. 1828 April 35 50 18 50 A cluster of icebergs. • •• 37 31 18 17 Five very large icebei-gs. 1853 ... 36 20 Numerous icebergs. 1854 ... 51 ... 26 An iceberg. • •• 53 80 Two icebergs. 1855 ... to 49 6 ... to 12 [ Numerous icebergs. ' An ice island, 300 ft. high, and 48 44 6 43- many ice fields ; and in the evening passed numeraus ice- bergs and pieces. 48 43 11 45 A large iceberg, 400 ft. high ; and much broken ice. ... 43 30 13 Numerous icebergs. ••• 48 57 ... 22 30 Several large icebergs. ••• 49 59 ... 24 55 A large iceberg. •«• 46 ... 27 Numerous icebergs. 1856 49 59 30 ; Steering N.N.W., parallel with a line of 47 icebergs. 49 30 5 ; Several large icebergs and much loose ice. ... 49 32 8 30 Field ice and icebergs. ... 49 30 9 Iceberg and drift ice. ... 48 35 11 Forty icebergs. ... 47 15 16 33 Thirty icebergs. ... 46 50 20 23 Two icebergs. ... 48 30 22 Large iceberg. ... 47 30 29 25 An iceberg. ••• 48 37 45 An iceberg. ••• 46 39 30 An iceberg. ••• 50 42 Several icebergs. ... 48 44 43 An iceberg. ••« 45 ... 52 40 Several icebergs. ••• 47 53 Several icebergs. ••. 47 20 58 An iceberg. ••• 47 53 58 30 A small iceberg. ... 47 53 59 8 ^«"*"D'&-yGoogle aSO ICE Ain> lOEBEBGS Date. Lat. S. Long. E. Descbiftxov. 1839 May o 88 r 80 O ' ... 16 .41 An iceberg. 1840 ... 47 17 58 50 Small iceberg. 1866 ... 48 »i 11 to 31 ^ Numerous icebergs. 48 ... 18 ^ ( Several icebergs, one covered ( with snow and broken ice. • •• 47 48 ... 28 o«( A small piece of ice. Tempera- ^ ( ture of air, 47°; water, 40^- ■ •• ••• 48 ... 37 Several icebergs. • •• 46 ... 37 40 A very large iceberg. • •• 48 ... 38 An iceberg. 47 38 ^(Alarge iceberg near Prince • •• 1856 June 46 10 48 43 Two large icebei^. ••• 48 88 ... 50 ^ ( A large iceberg. Air, 39° ; ( water, 39°. 1857 ... 61 «| ... 48 to 44 JlPackice. 1840 Joly 48 41 69 g { Saw a broken-up iceberg in the ( N.W. bay, Christmas harbour. 1853 ... 48 ... 50 An iceberg. 1856 ... 46 59 30 An iceberg. 1863 ... 60 45 ... 53 20 Two rocks (P) Icebergs. 1840 August 88 9 1 Many icebergs, and fields. ... 88 30 1 Icebergs and loose ice. ... 86 88 ... 13 15 Two ice islands. ..* 86 10 ... 13 40 Two icebergs. 41 30 14 n^ { An iceberg. 400 ft. high, and ( 1000 ft. long. 37 30 14 ( high. 40 26 19 Q { An iceberg, 300 ft. high, and ( 400 feet long. ... 1863 ... 62 1 67 51 A large iceberg. • •• 68 12 ... 71 1 An iceberg. 1840 September 37 30 10 An iceberg. ••• 38 12 An iceberg. ... 87 13 An iceberg. ... 41 30 14 ^ 1 An icebergs 1000 feet long and ^"( 400 feet high. *•• 87 45 14 50 An iceberg. ••• 87 ... 15 An iceberg. ... 87 ... 15 An iceberg, 1000 feet long and ^ I 400 feet high. i«. 40 30 19 (An iceberg, 400 feet long and ^l 300 feet high, Digitized by UOOgle IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. 251 Satb. Lat.S. Long. £. DKSCBiPTfON. 1840 Septembex o * ' 40 20 .4. O " 26 (One large iceberg, and four ( small ioebergs. ••• 37 to 38 30) 47 • ■. 36 19 Icebergs. 1844, ... 87 8 ... 24 Q ( Four icebergs* 100 to 200 ft. ( high. ■•• 38 10 «•• 24 < face of 180 milesi S.E. and . N.W. ••• 88 • •f 24 ^ 1 NmneroTis loebergs. to 89 16 to 27 ••# 39 4 • t* 26 50 NameroQs icebergs around. 1853 ... 62 10 • •• 87 7 Two large icebergs. • •• 49 • •• 43 An iceberg, 500 feet high. 1864 ... 49 40 «•• 20 Icebergs. ••• 48 • •t 45 An iceberg. 1855 ... 48 16 41 g . ( An iceberg. Temperature of ^ ( water, 42^ air, 36^. The approximate northern limit of icebergs in the Southern Indian Ocean is shown on the Wind Charts which accompany this work. These remarks may be aptly closed with some' observations by Db. Soobbsbt, I'.B.S., for many years an active whaling captain, and well acquainted with ice and icebergs; they were made during his passage in the Boyal Charter to Australia.* March Slst, 1856 ; at noon, Lai 47^ SO' S., Long. 52° 43' E., wind W. increasing in the afternoon to a hard gale, and ultimately in squalls vrith showers of rain and deet, it blew fiercely. An object of some alarm and much excitement, to be met with at night, in a heavy sea and gale, and showery weather, was announced at 7*90 P.H., as bemg seen. Two icebergs, indeed, showing ominously in the showery »ky, were then on the port beam ; and soon afterwards a third appeared on the port bow. April 1. For convenience of description, I have deferred the account of the ice-* beigs and the storm— as just notiodd under the previous day's remarks — to the present period, when an iceberg clearly within view, and a sea at its most migostio attainment of grandeur, afforded more precise means of attempting the description ■atisfactorily ; that is, if any description suggested by personal contemplations could ■oeurately convey a picture of one of the sublimest operations of " the stormy wind Had tempest," with the exciting and solemnising incident of the dangers of our progress in the period of darkness amid the mighty icebergs of Antarctio forma- Joonua of aToyage to Australia and Bound ths World for Msgnetiosl Bcs«arfb, l^flB^M BCOBEBBT, D.D., F.B.S., &C. p. 118. Digitized by VjjOC 252 ICE AND ICEBERGS tion. These topics lead as backward a few hoars in time to the evening of 31st March. Though the line of track up to or beyond the latitude of 46° S. had led us within a well-known range of icebergs, yet, when we had advanced so far to the eastward as the 69th degree of longitude, beyond which it appears icebergs are but rarely seen in our parallel, we were led to hope, and earnestly to hope, as the evening closed in with a heavy gale, hard squalls, and perplexing showers of sleet or hail, and a greatly rising sea, that the risk of falling in with icebergs had happily been passed. But we were disappointed. The " look-out," stimulated by promise of reward from the captain, reported at 7.30 p.m. an iceberg on the port-bow. All was now excitement — a mixture of curiosity and apprehension — ^and the forepart of the poop became speedily crowded with the passengers from below. Tlie object of interest and peril could only be recognised, however, as it gradually came nearer on the port-beam, by that characteristic luminosity by which this peril to the navigator is happily, and, I may add, providentially indicated. But the disappointing indistinctness iu this case— or, as some might have thought, the doubtfulness of the reality — were very soon superseded by another announcement from the chief officer, that he thought we were coming to another iceberg ahead of the ship, or a little on the port-bow. The ominous luminosity now left no doubt of our nearer approach towards another of these formidable incumbrances and perils belonging to this track of navigation. The ship's course being altered somewhat to starboard, brought us sufficiently far clear of it; but as it approached the beam of the ship in direction it became sufficiently con- spicuous, shining out of a dense black shower in that quarter, to enable us to judge both of its general form and magnitude. Its form was in a waving outline of con- siderable breadth, it might be two hundred to three hundred yards, with a height possibly of one hundred feet, or more. It was a white luminosity on a dark or almost black background of a raiii or snow-shower. Altogether, three icebergs were discerned through the darkness and haze; but whilst Captain Boyce pursued his course amongst them, some reduction of the sails was judiciously made, and for a time the maintop-gallant sail, mizentop sails, and fore course, were taken in. At 10 p.m., however, the weather being clearer — the sky, indeed, by no means so dark as usual in the absence of the moon, with a slight Aurora Australia yielding us obvious advantage — the foresail was again set, and throughout the night our course, E. ^ N. (true), was pursued, mercifully, without interruption either from the icebergs or the extremely heavy sea, which had been greatly augmented under the continuance and violence of the storm. A fair estimate of our danger from the icebergs could not be easily made. In a gale so heavy, with the occurrence of ice in uncertain and undeterminable quantity and distribution, no considerate person could be free from solemn thought or appre- hension; but the. regulation of these feelings under such circumstances is a matter of much importance to personal comfort, and with the Christian matter for peculiar submission to, and i-eposo on, the Divine providential will and guidance. Rationally cx)nsidercd, the special dangers on the one side are meeting with a suc- cession of icebergs after shifting the course or partially hauling to, so as to render the weathering of a second or third iceberg, or the getting a large ship of the clipper class sufficiently off the wind in time to wear clear of the danger, impracticable — besides the possibility of another of these formidable enemies to security appearing in the line selected for escape. Over and above this must IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. 253 ex*en more formidable danger of falling in with detached fragments of ice, lamps from fractured and wasting bergs lying low in the water, and without the provision of luminosity ibr making themselves visible, yet in njasses sufficiently great to stave in the bows or utterly destroy the strongest existing ship. Such dangers encountered in darkness, aggravated by showers, or haze or fog, are not to be rationally contem- . plated without some serious or anxious thought. But, on the other hand, the question of danger ought to embrace the probable extent, number, magnitude, and frequency of icebergs on any given track, in com- parison with the magnitude or width of the spaces amongst them. To the proportion in favour of safet}' must be added the effects of watchfulness on the part of the navi- gator, foi-ming some previous estimate of his position of danger ; the chances of the icebergs being passed in daylight, moonlight, or in moderate weather, or revealed when in the way by their luminosity ; and, finally, the results of experience in the comparative fewness of the accidents demonstrated by the small additional premium, and the moderateness of the premium generally demanded by Underwriter for the insurance of ships voyaging to Australia or New Zealand. So estimated, the result comes out there is risk, and considerable risk, to ships voyaging through seas liable to the danger of icebergs ; yet the risk, taken on an average, and in a merely intel- lectual or commercial point of view, is but small. In our particular case, the risk from separated fragments of the bergs we passed was lessened by the course we pursued and the steady direction of the gale, as fragments in a gale and heavy sea will always be found nearly astream of the iceberg-— that is, in the line of the wind from the berg— to windward or to leeward ; but we, in keeping far on one side, did not intersect or come near this usual line of icy debris and fragments. Hence, as a cautionary rule, for sailing among icebergs at night, I would recommend the passing them, if possible, well on one side, in respect to the direction of the wind, and not to intersect the stream-line of the ice. Not seeing more of icebergs during the night, it was hoped that we had passed beyond their region into an entirely freQ sea. . But about 7.30 a.m. I was called by the Captain with the announcement that there was another large iceberg on the port bow. So far as the sight only was concerned, this was an announcement of con- siderable interest, as I naturally felt it, in the opportunity of comparing these mighty flotations of the Antarctic with the familiar ices of the Arctic regions. Hastily equipping myself for the exposure to the gale — ^for the thermometer was at 39^, and the decks sprinkled with hail, and the wind blowing violently — I arrived on the poop in good time to see the berg in its best approach and nearest position. It was already nearly on the port beam, and, although perhaps a mile to a mile and a half off, was abundantly conspicuous, and, as viewed with an opera glass, discernible in its particular features. Of the mass, when covered, as sometimes it nearly was, with the broken, dashing waters of a heavy sea, it was difficult to judge. Probably it would be hardly less than 300 yards to a quarter of a mile in its greatest width, and possibly 150 to 200 feet high in its loftiest peaks ; for it had two pointed peaks rising up like spires out of the solid mass, with one or more smaller elevations of a like kind betwixt or annexed to them. Pictured as it happened to us, on the dark storm-like face of a snow shower, its native whiteness shone out with characteristic conspicuousness, though no longer displaying the luminosity of those seen in the darkness of night. The spectacle of this floating ice-island in the assault and burst of i^^^^fiff^i'3 254 SPECIFIC GRAVITY AND TEMPERATURE of an incidental highest wave — a wave, probably, of 40 [feet altitude, aad mucH breadth and maBsiveness of water— striking its steep or vertical face towards the westy and flying upward, and throwing a splendid white canopy over the gpreates'b part of the windward elevations — ^was magnificent. CHAPTER X. ON THE SPECIFIC QRAYITT AND TBMPEBATUBE OF THE WATER OF THE INDIAN OCEAN. ZadteB OeMu and A4|ae6nt Seas. — In the Indian Ocean, including under that head the sea as far as 50° S. and 140^ E., the region (or line) of lowest specific gravity appears to be near the equator or a little to the south of it, whereas in both the AUantio and Pacific the line of least density is to the north of the equator in the belt of equatorial rains and calms. There is a marked decrease in density towards the east in the bay of Bengal and towards Sumatra, occasioned no doubt by the accession of the fresh water from the rivers Ganges, Mahanuddy, and Irawaddj ; but taking the means of zones of 10 degrees there is but little difierence in either the specific gravity or temperature from 20^ N. to 20° S. In the neighbourhood of Sumatra and Java, in Banca, Snnda, and Ghispar stridts the specific gravity is exceedingly variable. Though the specific gravity of the South Indian ocean is less on the whole than that either of the South Atlantic or the South Pacific, some of the highest densities on record have been found in the South Indian. Captaiit Hbddlb of the CaUiance, when going from Melbourne to Calcutta, between Lat. 30^ and 10^ S., Long. lOOP and 90° E., found two of 1*0349 and 1*0362 respectively. The last is the highest observation (well authenticated) on record, with the exception of Captain Uab- binoton'b 1*0442 to the southward of Australia; but Captain Hbddlb is a careful observer and there is no reason to doubt his accurac3% Sea of T^pftB. TeUew See, 4u). — ^The density of the water (at surface) in the neighbourhood of the Japan islands and near the east coast of China and Chinese Tartary is somewhat variable. The greatest recorded in these seas is 1*0364, found in Lat. 40^ 40" N., Long. 138"" 6' £. by H.M.S. Pique. 1*0320 (and over) has been not unfirequently recorded, but upon the whole the mean specific gravity is not high ; and near the mouths of the larger rivers, especially the Yang-tse Kiang, it is very low indeed. Near the mouth of the Peiho also it was on one occasion found to be as low as 1*0053. The sea-water temperatures generally appear rather high for the latitudes. The range of temperature, especially near the coast, is oonsiderable. In the gulf of Pe*Chili a range of 52° has been observed ; 82° bemg the highest and 30° the lowest temperature recorded. The occasionally very low temperatures in this locality seem to be caused by the ice brought down by the Peiho river. Bed Sea.-— The mean of some 200 observations gives 1*0286 as the mean density of the Red Sea. onialr> Digitized by VjOOQ Lc OP THE INDIAN OCEAN. 255 The density seems to be greatest in the northern parts of the sea, and to decrease gradually southwards towards Aden. The maximum observed is 1*0321, in the bay of Saez, by H.M.S. Cyclops, The minimum 1*0252 by the steamer European, near Aden. Dividing the sea into two parts, north and south of latitude 20^, we have the following result ^^ Mean density of the whole 1*0286 „ Northern half . . . 1*0297 „ Southern half . . . 1*0272 being an excess of '0026 on the side of the Northern half. The mean temperature of the Red Sea is 79^*3. Above latitude 20° it is 77^*4, and (the mean of the observations) below that latitude it is 81°'5. The highest temperature recorded is 94° • Temperatures as high as 90^ occur not unfrequently. The lowest temperature reported is 64°.t Of the three oceans 8outh of the Equator^ihe Atlantic, the Pacific, and the Indian — ^the Atlantic is the heaviest and the coldest ; while the Indian is the lightest and the warmest; and the Pacific is between the two; as below :«— South Atlantic . Specific gravity . • 1*02676 Temperature . . . 66°*66 South Pacific . . Specific gravity . • 1*02658 Temperature . • . 67^70 South Indian . Specific gravity • • 1*( Temperature • In conclusion, the result of the whole inquiry serves to show that the chief differences in oceanic specific gravity arise from local or special circumstances. It is high in regions where evaporation is rapid, as in the trade winds, and low in those parts of the ocean where much rain falls. It is the highest of all (on the average) in arms of the sea, such as the Bed Sea, where there are no rivers and but little rain ; and lowest near the mouths of great rivers, such as the St. Lawrence or the Plate, or in seas like the Black Sea and the Baltic, where the accession of fresh water is great. It is low also in high latitudes in the vicinity of ice. The highest surfiu» temperature anywhere recorded is 94° in the Bed Sea near Aden. The highest temperatures recorded elsewhere^ are 88** and 89°. These have been found not unfrequently in the Indian Ocean near the equator. Captain Mauby speaks of a temperature of 95° as being not uncommon in the Bed Sea, but there is no record here of any temperature above 94°. Changes' of temperature in sea water are frequently abrupt, and in studying the temperatures (p. 266—260) as given, it should be borne in mind that it is the fact of these temperatures being the means of all observations within squares often degrees that causes the transitions to appear gradual. In the neighbourhood of the Cape of Good Hope the changes of temperature are, as is well known, both sudden and frequent The register of H.M.S. Encounter states, that when in Lat. 39° SO' S., Long. • Steamer European^ at Aden, 2nd September, 1857. t H.M.S «/ X With the exception of a temperature of Sl^itized by vinO 256 SPECIFIC GRAVITY AND TEMPERATURE 15° E. in February 1860, — "At 6 a.m. upon draw lug water from alongftide it appeared quito warm to the baud/' and the temperature was found to be 72°, which was 17° higher than it had been the previous day at noon, when the ship was in the same latitude, but 1° 53' further to the westward. The specific gravity (uncorrected for temperature) continued unchanged at 1'0285, and a northerly current of 19 miles had been experienced. The Sehaatian Cabot, Captain Qui bit, in very nearly the same position and in the same mouth found the surface temperature at 6 a.k. to be 57°, at noon 73°, and at 6 P.M. the same day 76°. This was in Lat. 39° 25' S., and Long. 16° 3(r £. to 18° 3(y £., cniTeut E.N.E. about 12 miles per 24 hours. Farther to the southward, the Pomona^ Captain Bbbgek, Lat. 41° to 43° S., Long. 15° to 25° E., found the temperature of the water varying from 48° to 64°> changing frequently ; . though no great difference was observed in the specific gravity (uncorrected.) In illustration of the effect of heavy rains, in at least temporarily diminishing the specific gravity of the surface, a most remarkable instance was observed by Db. C. K. Obd, of H.M.S. Hermes, when that ship was lying in Simon's bay in August 1869. On the 4th of that month at 9 A.]f . the specific gravity was 1*0266, and in one hoar it was reduced by the heavy rain that fell to 1*0193, the water becoming "brown in colour, merely brackbh in taste, and its current setting distinctly outwards." By noon the density had increased to 1*0253, and at 8 p.m. the surface had recovered its former density of 1*0266. The next day the specific gravity was again reduced by heavy rain and again rose. The temperature of the surface was also temporarily lowered from 58° to 55°, the temperature of the rain being 50^. SPECIFIC GBAYITY AND TSKPBBATUBE OP EACH SQUABE OF TEN DEOBBES IN THE INDIAN OCEAN: — Between the parallels of 30° and 20° N.» :— ^o 1. Long. 50 to 60 E temp. 78*0; Bp.gr. r( 2. „ 60 to 70 E , 77*3 „ 1*0259 3. „ 70 to 75 E „ 79*0 „ 10261 4. „ 85to 90 E „ 80*3 „ '10212 5. „ 90 to 95 E „ 76*7 „ 10238 Between the parallels of 20° and 10 N.:— o o o Long. 40 to 50 E temp. 81*1; sp.gr. 10270 8. „ 50 to 60 E „ 77*9 „ 10275 9. „ 60 to 70 E „ 80-9 „ 10284 10. „ 70 to 80 E „ 82-4 „ 10270 11. „ 80 to 90 E „ 81*5 „ 10219 12. „ 90 to 100 E „ 81*1 „ 10242 • The number* htfore the " Louff." are thow of the ti-n degree squares on the ** AViuU Chuiis of the Indian Ocenn " which sccompaiiy this work. . ^ ^^ ■ ^ Digitized by VjOOQ Ic OP THE INDIAN OCEAN. Between the parallel of 10° N. and the Equator :— 15» 16. 17. 18. 19. Long. 40 to 50 £ temp. 80*5; Bp.gr. 50 to 60 E. 60 to 70 E „ 70 to 80 E „ 80 to 90 E „ 90 to 100 E „ 80-9 82-9 820 82-5 83-0 1-0264 1-0270 10269 1-0267 1-0260 1-0251 267 Between the Equator and tlie parallel of 10° S. :— 23. LoD<;. 40to 50 E. 24. ff 50 to 60 E. 25. ff 60 to 70 E. 26. »t 70 to 80 E. 27. >f 80 to 90 E. 28. »» 90 to 100 E. 29. »» 100 to 110 E. 110 to 120 E. 120 to 130 E. 50 E temp. 79-6; sp. gr. 81-4. 820 82-2 82-3 82-3 83-0 82-7 82-8 1-0220 1-0260 10270 1-0270 1-0262 10259 1-0250 1-025G 10265 Between the parallels of 10=^ and 2(f S. :— 30. Long. 3U to 40 E. 31. f» 40 to 50 E. 32. »» 50 to 60 E. 33. »» 60 to 70 E. 34. n 70 to 80 E. 36. t* 80 to 90 E. 36. ft 90 to 100 E. .37. ft 100 to 110 E. 9f 110 to 120 E. »9 ft 120 to 130 E. 130 to 140 E. 80-8; ap. gr. 10261 811 » 1-0267 79-4 » 1-0265 77-5 M 1-0266 78-6 »> 10263 791 » 1-0263 78-6 $t 1-0266 78-7 9t 1-0266 81-7 » 1-0264 82*7 »> 10259 79-5 »f 10256 Between the parallels of 20° and 30° S. :— 38. Long .30 to 40 E. 39. ff 40 to 50 E. 40. ft 50 to 60 E. 41. ft 60 to 70 E. 42. ft 70 to 80 E. 43. ft 80 to 90 E. 41 tf 90 to 100 E. 45. 100 to 110 E. 110 to 116 E. 40 E. temp. 74-1; 74-1; sp.gr. 1-0265 73-6 »f 1-0266 751 tt 1-0265 75-0 it 10268 74-2 »» 10268 70-8 ft 1-0260 69-6 )i 1-0269 69-7 »» 1-0271 72-6 »» 1-0271 * Tbt BBmben b^ftfre the " lADg." are thoee of the tkt ladiaa Oeean** whleh aocompaDy thii work. Uod„„.«,«^^<»th.^W^d^gJ^of 25S SPECIFIC GBAVITY AND TBMPERATUEE Between the parallels of 3(f and 4/P S. i— 47.*Long. ^to 30 E temp. 690; sp.gr. r0270 4.8. „ 30 to 40 E „ 69-3 „ 1-0267 49. „ 40 to 60 E „ 663 „ r0»68 60. „ 60 to 60 B „ 624 „ r0269 61. „ 60 to 70 E „ 60-7 „ r0266 62. „ 70 to 80 E „ 60*6 „ 1*0268 63. „ 80 to 90 E , 69-3 „ 10264 54. „ 90tol00B „ 69-2 „ 1-0263 66. „ lOOtoUOE. .: „ 62-4 „ r0270 ,. 110 to 120 E „ 61-8 „ rOB69 „ 120 to 130 E „ 687 .. 1*0267 „ 130 to 140 E „ 68-4 „ 1-0267 „ 140 to 160 B „ 687 „ 1-0262 Between the parallela of 40^ and 60P S. :— . o o o 67. Long. 20 to 30 E temp. 62*9; Bp.gr. 10261 68. „ 30 to 40 E „ 60*4 „ 1*0260 59. „ 40 to 50 E „ 48-4 „ 10266 60. „ 60 to 60 E „ 49-3 „ 10267 61. „ 60 to 70 E „ 61-2 „ r0269 62. „ 70 to 80 E „ 494 „ r0266 63. „ 80 to 90 E , 48-6 „ 1*0268 64. „ 90 to 100 E „ 47*4 „ 10269 66. „ 100 to HOE „ 487 „ 10269 „ 110 to 120 E 49-9 „ 10261 „ 120 to 130 E „ 61*2 „ 10260 „ 130 to 140 E 63*0 „ 10260 „ 140 to 160 E „ 66-0 „ 1*0264 Between the parallels of 60° and 60° S. :— Long. & to 30 E temp. 36^0; sp. gr. 1*0263 „ 30 to 40 E „ 36*6 „ r0267 „ 40 to 50 E „ 35*2 „ 10260 „ 60 to 60 E „ 36*6 „ 1*0261 „ 60 to 70 E „ 36*1 „ 1*0269 „ 70 to 80 E 361 ,. 1*0269 „ 80 to 90 E , 86-9 „ 1*0256 „ 90 to 100 E 89*0 „ 1*0267 „ 100 to HOE „ 38-0 „ 1*0259 „ 110 to 120 E „ 37*8 „ 1-0265 „ 120 to 130 E ,. 40-0 ,. 1-0254 „ 130 to 140 E 48-0 „ 1*0262 „ 140 to 150 E .. 46^0 „ 1-0246 • Tilt nvmbtn Hf^ the '• Long.** art thoM of the ten 4cfr«e fqutrti on ttw ** Wis^ Charu of Uit lB4ian Octan*' whteh aocompsuf thia work» Digitized by VjOOQ IC OF THE INIDUK OCEAN. 259 O I 5 5 P p QQ M §^ o eo M I I; I! 11 I a I M 11 o p Mo -o! o as II :3 Cm <^ - 1" — r~r" II WO I ii^ l£;Sf§S oSS SS^SS oooo< s « ■ ss ^S*g J? W CC '^ ** « s§ oOo< a CO o 00 rl r-t 'M «0 0)00 oboooodD'to '♦t* '38 ^ Op 90 99 < 13 8 •go 8 S S R 3 I « « •3 O C4 • a 260 INDIAN OCEAN. In higher Latitncles than 6(f S. :— Lat. 60° to 60P S., Long. 20° to 140° E. ; mean ep. gr. 10258 ; mean t^^mp. of water, 37°-4. Max. Bp. gr. 1-0283 in Long. 60° to 70° E. Min. sp. gr. 10234 in Long. 130^ to 140^ E. Max. temp, of water 45'' in Long. 130° to 140° E. Min. temp, of water 34° in Long. 110° to 120° E. SPECIFIC OSIYITT AND TSMFERITUBB OF BACH SQUABB OF TEK DBGBBKS IN THE CHINA 8BA. Between the paralleb of 40° and 30° N. :— Long. 115 to ih E temp. 64-0; sp. gr. r0173 „ 120 to 130 B „ 60-0 „ 1-0222 „ 130tol40E „ 66-2 „ 10239 Between the parallels of 30° and 20° N. :— Long. 110 to 120 E temp. 74-4; sp.gr. 10249 „ 120 to 130 E 72-4 ., 10265 „ 130 to 140 E „ 78-8 „ 1-0266 Between the parallels of 20^ and 10° N. :— Long. 100 to 110 E temp. 82-2; sp. gr. 10244 „ 110tol20E „ 81-0 „ 1-0254 „ 120 to 130 E „ 80r, „ 10266 „ 130 to 140 E , 821 „ 10262 Between the parallel of 10° N. and the Equator : — Long. 100 to 110 E temp. a30; sp. gr. 1-0247 „ 110tol20E „ 82-4 „ 10249 „ 120tol30E , 83-4 „ 10250 „ 130 to 140 E. 83-6 „ 1-0259 These observations (pp. 254-260) are selected and condensed from the Twelfth Number of Meteorological Papers published b}* IIjo Board of Trade in 1865. Twenty-five different elements have been observed in the water of the ocean, or in ))]Ant8 and animals of tlie sea: oxygen, //jtfdrogen, chlorine, bromine, iodine, lluorine, sulphur, phosphorus, carbon, nitrogen, silicon, iron, manganese, magnesium, calcium, strontium, barium, sodium, potassium, silver, copper, lead, zinc, cobalt, nickel;, but only those printed in italic are predominant. Of these, chlorine, sul- phuric soid, lime, and magnesia may be determined with great exactitude. Digitized by Lrioogle Saline Ingsbdients— 3-505. DEEP-SEA soundings; 261 ftaltaesB of the Ooeaa. — The mean result of several analyses by BsoKAULf givw :— Water " , 96'470 r Chloride of Sodium 2700 „ Magneeium 0*360 „ Potassium 0*070 Sulphate of Lime 0*140 „ Magnesia 0*230 Carbonate of Lime 0003 Bromide of Magnesium 0*002 Loss, including Iodides, Silica, &c 0*025 100*000 According to Fobchhammeb,* the mean of 140 complete analyses gives 3*430 of salt in one hundred parts of water, unequally distributed over 16 regions ; but the specimens being principally taken at low latitudes, he regards this mean as too high. The mean saltness of the Atlantic is 3*577 ; of the Califoraian Pacific 3*522 ; of the Japanese Pacific 3*443 j and of the Indian Ocean 3*413. CHAPTER XI. DEEP-SEA SOUNDINGS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. have not been tried for to the same extent in the Indian as in the Atlantic Ocean ; those for the laying down of the Bed Sea and India Telegraph are the principal. The following were made by Captain W. J. S. PuLLEN, B.N., in H.M.S. Cyclops, on the voyage to Aden in 1857, previous to his sounding the Bed Sea ; this is an important paper, as the observations and remarks tend to clear the chart of many viffids to the southward and north-eastward of Madagascar. '* Between the parallels of 35^ and 40^ S. many doubtful dangers are marked on the charts ; and on nearing them, the lead was brought into play. Two of these, I think, may be fairly expunged from the position they have so long held- *• The first was the Brunswick, on which is marked 85 fathoms, — deep enough, cer- tainly, for any ship that floats ; but to remove all doubt, I had two casts not far from it of 1410 and 1102 fathoms without reaching bottom. *' The next was the Atalanta shoal, seen by two ship^, an American and a Dutchman } both give the position different I therefore laid it down on our chart in three several places. I passed from the westward between the most northern position and the first of the southern ones, and got four deep casts, besides several of 50 and 80 fathoms in their vicinity. The first was down (by intervals of time noted) to 1110 fathoms. I felt doubtful about the cast, and as there was no time to get another cast before dark, lanterns were placed, and the lead was let go, getting as good a series of intervals as with many soundings we have inade by daylight ; The flill detaU of the analyses ia :*-Videnskaberne8 Seiskabs Skrifter.— Y. EaikKK,^86 Digitized by ' ;.^86§Te 262 M£P*8£A SOUNDINGS moraoTtr, provin^t tlwt- our first oast was right, for this time the lead was down at 1 120 fathomtf ; and, as a further satisfaction, the valve bringing up a specimen of the bottom, appearing to be fine, light-oobured sand, over a hard bottom. The next morning, having laid by nearly all night with 800 fathoms, I found no bottom ; and a little further N.E. the lead was down at 900 fathoms. Here the valve brought up a 6{)eeimen again similar to that which we had the preceding night, with a small pebble on it ; and when a portion of this specimen was placed under the microscope, it proved to be some of the most beautiful species of the Diatomacea thatcan be imagined. " From thin last sounding the course was more northerly, and considering what could have given rise to the report of pointed rocks, and bow to account for finding such thoal water so far from any land, six and eight hundred miles— the Croaseta on the one hand, and south point of Madagascar on the other — thought it possible that a less depth might be met with, and further, that this vicinity ought to have a closer examination. However, looking to the westward, something like a break caught my eye, but being the only person who could see it, I thought I was deceived by the mif'age, and perhaps imagination, from dwelling so long on the snbject of rocks, and went below. " In the course of half an hour the officer of the watch reports passing broken water to the S.E., just in the opposite direction to where I had seen a like olject, but this time there was certainly no deception ; the description given was, that it had the appearance of water rushing and foaming over broken ground, like a mill-stream. From the distance, with a glass, it most decidedly looked like breakers ; and being under steam, almost a dead calm, I bore away for it ; nearing it, it lost the appear- ance of break, but showed a white milky substance, in large patches, spread over a considerable surface, with ttripa of dark water between^ ahowing aa the deepcat water ; this, together with the long undulating motion from the S*W. swall, had caused it to appear from a distance, as if bi-caking. I steamed through, and with 145 fathoms found no bottom. " This appearance, I have no doubt, without examination, hat given rise to the reports of so many dangers seen between these parallels $ and one oironmatance which took place with us will, I think, show how one may be deceived. The captain of the forecastle, not knowing that the course had been altered, or that anything unusual was going on, suddenly looked out ahead, and shouted most lustily, • Broken water ahead, sir 1* This, too, when we were close to it. " About the Brunswick shoal, also, for two da^'s we were passing through what at a distance might be taken for sand-spits, which on examination proved to be a small gelatinous polypi, with a small crustacea in the head of a yellow and brownish appear* ance, which, seen in such immense quantities, might easily deceive at a distance, ospecially in former days. What to call the white substance I do not know ; there were inf\i8ori8e and small crustaces found amongst it. *' Steering now to pass to the westward of Mauritius, a little south of the parallel of 20^ distant from the land 00 miles, I could not get bottom with 1375 fathoms of line. This first showed me the improbability of the Indian Ocean being of le^s depth than the Atlantic. Proceeding northward, I passed up to the westward of OargadoB Qangos, Saya de Malha, east of Sej^chelles, and crossed the Equator in 58^ 20^ £., getting a oast 9 miles south of it, with 2380 fathoms ; no bottom. *• Between 40 and 50 miles west of the northern part of the Cargados got bottom With '1400 fathoms of liue. In Lat. 14P 41' S., and Long. 68® 43' E., no bottom Digitized by LjOOQIC IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. 268 with 1570 fathoms. In Lat 10° 30^ S.» and Long. 68° 62' £., no bottom with 1320 fathoms; hero the ship was passing throngh strong tide-rips looking like breakers, or rather a rush of water over uneven bottom ; in fact, it was one of the first overfalls that we had met ; on first view it appeared as if numbers of fish at the distance were swimming about just under the surface, or the albicore in chase of the flying fish. Passing near where 185 fathoms are marked on the chart N.W. of the Saja de Malha, no bottom with 200 fathoms. " Wind now light from northward ; when I was close to the doubtful Qeorge island, and about | of a mile west of its southern part, 2000 fathoms of line would not reach bottom i temp, of surface 81°'5, at the greatest depth 88°'2. Ptesed over this island nearly a mile within its southern point, and not finding the ship on shore, conclude that such an island never existed here. Steaming to pass near Bose Galley rocks, the next morning, 5 miles south of the most weatem one, found bottom with 2254 fathoms of line, the valve bringing in plentiful specimens from that depth ; and the thermometer sent down showed a minimum temperature of 35°. The thermometers are hardly to be depended on, for up to this time I have invariably found that on their return the tell-tale in the maximum column has shown very difierent from what it did on startiog"— viz., the surface- temperature, from which we may conclude that the minimum tell-tale has moved also. Mb. McLbib, the astronomer at the Cape, also spoke of it taking up one of onr deep-sea thermometers when he was on board, and quite altering the indices with a very little motion, less than the line is Hkely to give it on its passage up and down. " After this sounding near the Rose Galley rocks I passed about 1 mile west of the westernmost one, and could not detect the slightest break or disturbance in the sea anywhere. Approaching Swift bank, I commenced sounding with 150 fathoms only, and carried a line of that depth over the bank without reaching bottom." CHAPTER XIL WHALIKa-OROtmDS VS THfi PACIFIC, ATLANTIC. AXTD iMtATSt 0CfiAN8. Tbb following observations are extracted from Comhaitobb Wiixbs* "Karrativo of the TTnited States' Exploring Expedition, 1838-1842." The principal whaling-grounds in the Pacific are indicated below ; they are coti^ fined particularly to spaces which have been known in the Pacific Ocean by namieM well understood among the whalers, such as the " ou'shore ground," and the " off- shore ground," " middle ground," Stc, These spaces, however, have wide limits ; thus, for instance, the " on-shore ground" embraces the whole extent of ocean along the coasts of Chili and Peru, from the island of Juan Fernandez to the G'tlapa^^os islands ; and the " off'-shore ground" the space between Lat. 5^ and 10° S., Lon. 9(fi and 120^ W. The following list embraces all the different grounds in the Pacific visited by whalers : — 1. The on-shore gnmndi 2. „ off-shore ground. 8. la the aeighbourhood of the Bttwtma iakads. Digitized by VjOOQ IC 5164 WaALlNG (ittOUNDS 4. In the neighbourhood of the Society islandu. 5. „ yf Samoan group. 6. „ „ Feejee group. 7. „ ,9 Kingsmill group. 8. Along and to the south of the equator, from the coast of South America to the Eingsroiil group. 9. Across the South Pacific, between the parallels of 21^ and 27^ S. 10. „ North „ „ „ 27° and 36° N. 11. In the neighbouriiood of the east coast of New Zealand. 12. The Middle Ground, between New Holland and New Zealand. 13. The coast of Japan, and between it and the Boniu islands. 14. The N.W. coast of America. 15. Coast of California. These, it will be seen, embrace a lar';e field, and it might be supposed that a ship could hardly miss finding the animals. Such, however, is not the case. A vessel may visit all these places, and yet return home -a " clean ship," if she happened to be out of season. It appears from experience that whales in their migrations con- gregate in the above-named places at certain times of the year, and those who are acquainted with the business endeavour to be early on the cruising-groundi>. I shall MOW point out the times, according to the best information, at which the whales visit the several grounds, and although not a whaler, I hope to give such information as may be useful to this adventurous class of my countrymen. For convenience of description, the cruising-gronnds may be considered as included within four distinct sections or belts. These belts are from twenty to twenty -five degrees of latitude in width. The first of which 1 shnll speak is that between the equator and the northern tropic ; the second, between tlic tropic and latitude 50° N. ; the third, between the equator and the southern tropic ; and the fourth, between the southern tropic and Lat 50° S. Within the tropics, whales ara almost always to be met with. There are, how- ever, particular places within this zone where they chiefly congregate. Whales are found in the first belt on the north side of the equator, to the southward of the Siuidwioh islands, and thence westward as far as the Mulgrave islands, for the greater part of the year ; but the only spot or space they are known to aboimd at any particular season within this belt, is to the westward of the Galapagos ; they pass and repass over the rest of this space in their migrations, and may generally be found near to, or araund the small it^lands. In the second belt, they range from the coast of Japan to the north-west coast of America, and California ; this they frequent from May till November. In the month of July they are found off the Bonin islands, and between them and the coast of Japan. They frequent the space lying to the nortJiward of the Hawaiian islands, and comprehended between the parallels of 28° and 35° N., and within the meridiahs of 145° and 165° W., from June to October ; and resort to the north-west coast of America in August and September; and to that of California in November and January. The third belt comprises the ocean 'from the coast of South America to the Kings- mill group, including the Marquesas, Society, and Friendly islands, the Samoan and Focjee groups. Within these are the- spaces known aa the ** on-shore and off-shore Digitized by LjOOQIC IK T?HE TliREE OCEANS. SS5 grouucU." The latter the whalers frequent from November to February, and along this third belt they are found until the months of July and August, by which time they roach the Kingsmill and Feejee groups. There are, however, stragglers to be met with in this space during all seasons. The fourth belt extends from the southern tropic to the latitude of 60° S. The most profitable time for cruising within it is in the months of March, April, and May, to the eastward of New Zealand. After that date, along and between the parallels of 23P and 28° S., from the coast of New Holland to that of South America. The portion of sea between New Holland and New Zealand is called the " middle ground," and is frequently found very profitable. From an examination of the particular localities in which whales are found most numerous at gertain seasons, and connecting these with my own observations on currents, I am induced to believe the places of their resort will point more correctly to the neutral points, or spaces of no current, than any other data that we yet These must naturally become the rendezvous or feeding-places of these animals. The determination of these points will therefore throw additional light on the system of currents in the ocean, by pointing out the neutral spaces. When the chief resorts of whales are connected with the currents shown to exist by the observations of the Expedition and others, they will be found to correspond in a remarkable manner with the neutral spaces. I have myself paid much attention to acquiring information in relation to the position of these grounds, from the masters of whale-ships, but have usually found their reports at variance one with another, and they have sometimes differed as much as five degrees in a.< •' Digitized by VjOOQIc 206 WHALING ailOUNDS In the Atlaniio Ocean : 1. Off the Azores or Weetern UlaucU. 2. ,, Cape De Yerdes. 3. North of the Bahama banks. 4. Qalf of Meiioo. 6. Caribbean sea. 6. To the eastward of the Windward islands. 7. North coast of Brazil. 8. South ooast of Brazil. 9. Carrol ground, or a space of ocean lying between St. Helena and Aftiea. In the Indian Ocean : 1. Off the southern end of Madagascar, and between it and Afriea. 2. „ northern end ,» „ „ 3. The coast of Arabia. 4 West coast of Java. 5. North-west coast of New Holland. 6. South coast of New Holland, and beCtveen it and Van Diemen*s Land. The periods or times allotted to these fisheries coincide with the times at which it might be expected that the food of the whale would be most plentiful, if brought by the polar streams. The Atlantic fishery is for the most part oarried on in a smaller class of vessels than those used in the Pacific i the voyages are of less duration, and less capital is therefore required in this business than the other. In speaking of cruising-grounds, I shall follow the order in which they are visited. The first in point of time is that near the Azores. This ground does not extend more than 200 miles from these islands, and lies principally to the southward of them. Here whales are found during the summer months, and as late as October. These islands, it will be well to remark here, lie in the route of the Great North Polar Stream, and form an obstruction to its passage ; consequently the iood is arrested in its progress and is accumulated here. The next ground visited is off cape Blanco and the cape De Yerdes, and it ii zl. the north ond of neodle will have but little error from the balanced eonditions of north and south polariij of topstdes. „ South, „ the north end of needle will be rQ>0;ZM£ to the lee side by the north polarity of nearest or weather topside. „ 8.W. „ the north end of needle will have but little error, as at S«£. West, „ the north end of needle will be a^^r^^M to the weather or nearest side. N.W. „ p the same. These laws only hold good as long as the topsides in the immediate vicinity of the compass retain their dominant polarity due to their original direction of build in Great Britain ; if in south magnetic latitudes a change of poUrity takes pbce, the conditions of heeling coiTeepond to such change. The maximums disturbance on heeling in all these vessels is when their heads are (by disturbed compass) magnetic North or South, and this disturbance vanishes when the head is last or West. This law of disturbance may be thus explained : when the vessel's head is north or south on an even keel (by disturbed compass), the peedle lies parallel to the topsides by their oombined action, which neutrslises each other ; on heeling, the nearest topside exennses its then dominant polarity at right angles to the direotion of the needle, and hence the maximum error. With the ship's head east or west, whether on an even keel or heeling, either pole of the compass* needle points directly to the topsides, and is consequently unaffieoted except in a vertical plane. As the amount of disturbance on heeling varies under the various conditions of direction of build, height of compass, and breadth of ship or distance of topeidcH, added to the prevailing permanent or inductive magnetic condition of the latter and the deck beams, each ship must have an individual character, to be determined only by experiment or observation at sea. There are, however, strongs grounds for in- ferring that by a judicious position of the compass, so as to ensure small errors while on an even keel, the errors arising from the ship's heel will be so proportionally re- duced as not practically to affect the navigation of the ship in the hands of a prudent In eondusion, it is recommended to every master of an iron ship or steamer that he be provided with Qodtbxt's " Time Azimuth Chart," whereby, with in- credibly little trouble, he can determine the true bearing (within 1^ or 2^) of any celestial oljeet when its meridian distance is greater than two hours i so that by observing the otjeet's bearing by compasi at any givsn instant (within the limits statid), and then measuring the true aiimuth on the chart, he at once knows the enw on the course he is steering. 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SAILING DIRECTIONS rOB THE PEINCIPAL POETS IN THE IMIM OCEAN. SOUTH AND EAST COASTS OF AFRICA •#* The Yabiation of the Compass in 1864 was ; — Table Bat to Cape Agulhas 29° 40' W. ;— Cape Recife 29° 36' W. ;— the mouth of Buffalo Riteb 29° 15' W.; — Poet Natal 27° W.; — Delaooa Bat 240 2Qr ^ .—Cape Cobbikntes 22° 30' W. ;— Quillimane Riveb 18° W.;— Mozambique 14° 15' W. 5— Cape Delgado 11° 48' W. ;— Poet Zanzibab 10f° 20' W.5— Pemba 9° 40' W.;— Mombaz 9° 7' W. ;— Cape Guabdafui 2° 40'W. TAS&a BAT.— Table Bay, at the southern extreme of the west coast of Africa, is situate on the northern side of that peninsnla, the south extremity of which bears the name of the Cape of Qood Hope. In the south part of the bay, at about two miles eastward from the town, is the Royal Observatory, in Latitude 33° 56' 3" S„ and Longitude 18° 28' 42", or Ih. 13m. 56s. east of Greenwich. The Lion's Rump, Robben Island, and Blaauwberg may be considered as the extremes of Table Bay, which give it an extent of 7 miles from north to south, and 5 miles from east to west. In it the soundings range from 5 to 20 fathoms, the former depth being found at ^ a mile or less from the shores, except in the southern part of the bay, abreast the town, where there are but 5 and 6 fathoms at nearly one mile from the land, towards which the water thence shoalens very gradually. With the exception of the off-lay from the shores, the only danger to be feared is the Whale Book, an isolated rocky patch over which the sea breaks, when there M aay swell, but at other times the water passes smoothly over ^fj^|/|j^^t of a mile 271 Il013BEx\ ISLAND. S. by W. i'rora the south point of Robben Ts»land, and has o and 7 lathoms close to it all round, and 4, 5, and 6 fathoms between it and the island. When approaching the bay from the southward, the rocks named the Lions Paws, which lie about i a mile off shore at the foot of the Lion's Head, and also the coast in their vicinity, should be avoided, by giving the land a berth of one mile or more. S088Bir XS&AVS lies 24 miles southward of Dassen Island, 5^ miles N. by E. i E. from Green Point lighthouse, and 3J miles from the shore at Blaauwberg. It is low and flat, nbput If mil^ in length from N. by E- to 8. by W., one mile in breadth, and bounded by reefs which from its western shore project i of a mile ; rocky ground deepening gradually from 5 to 10 fathoms also extends W. by N. one mile from the western extremity of the island, and causes heavy breakers when the wind blows strongly from S.W. to North. The north-east side of the island is free from danger, but the eastern shore is fronted by a rocky shoal, which extends E. by S. from the church tower to a depth of- 4 fathoms, at the distance of half a mile from thf laud ; ik» d^ths upon it are irregular, varying liom 2 to 4 fathoms, and its position is well marked by an abundance of seaweed. At the south end of Robben Island there is a hospital for lunatics. There is, or was, also a depot for convicts from the Cape, who are or were employed in quarrying lime-stone, of which the base of the island is composed. Grapes and vegetables are grown, and th^re are several springs of good water. The soil is sandy. The highest part of the island is Minto Hill, situate at its south end, the summit of which is 106 feet above the sea level : upon this hill there is a lighthouse (consisting of a round white tower, 76 feet high) which shows a, fixed ichite light at 154 feet above the sea, visible from a distance of about 20 miles. Few vessels touch at Robben Island, and such as have occasion to send a boat's crew to shore, anchor on its easteni side, it being unsafe to anchor on its western side on account oC the heavy swell. The best landing-place is in Murray Bay, on the north-east shore of the island ; another place is in the cove at its south-east ^ide, n^ar the lunatic establishment. CAPS TOIW, situate in the Hovith-w^st corner of Table Bay, at the foot of Table Mountain and Devil's Peak, and on the eastern side of the Lion's Head and Rumpt i» built upon a shelvipg plain, which gradually rises to the foot of tliose hills ; the last two of which stretch out to the northward, and slielter the bay from westerly winds. The town is defended by numerous forts and batteries, and all kinds of supplies can be readily procured for shipping on reasonable terms. The Castle, at the eastern extremity of the town, is a pentagonal fortress of considerably strength, containing some public offices, baiTacks, &c., and having outworks which command both the bay and the roads to the country. A little further eastward, the town has an additional protection in Fort Kuockle and some fortified lines of defence. And on the northern side it is guarded by Amsterdam, Chavonne, and other batteries. TliQ town is regularly Ijiid out, contains several good squares, and the streets, which are straight and wide, cross each other at right angles, many of them being watered by canaL>, and planted on either side with trees, in the Dutch fashion. The houses are generally two stories in height, and are constructed with flat roofs in ix»nw9QeQcc of the violent winds to which the place is subject. They are built of Digitized by LjOOQIC T5 114 th ire of er Mil ad y- i»; m pr a k. w. Is, il. id le rn id 3e ae ;3. TABLE 1 or . e. )n as ff. a of le be te er % ¥aiielia*« Digitized by VjOOQI@* 274 S. b alii the ia shoi 1 E. Iti bret rod mil win froi S. froi its wai lino grc pal lO roi th( ere aid th( ne Ta Ri th wi an CO 01 lu fo; CJ w'. w; lie Digitized by VjOOQ IC CAPE TOWN. 275 itone, their exterior being eitlier wbitewa»hed or neatly ^uoooed; their interiors ar^ spacious and convenient, and many of them have terraces or stoeps before tliem. They are frequently shaded by a amali row of fir-trees, which furro an agreeable relief to their dazzling whiteness, and at the same time afford the advant^igt of a shady walk. The terrace walks in front of the houses are generally iiia favourite lounge of the family in the evening or duiing the heat of the dliionabIe street of the town. The principal public buildings are the Govemmant House, with eztensire gardens^ the burgher senate-house, barraoks, commercial exchange, custom-house, town and district gaol, military dep6t, and tax-oifioe ; English, Dutch, Jjutheran, and Prasby- terian churches ; Boman CathpUc, Independent, Wealej'aa, and missionary chapels ; Somerset Hospitid, and two others ; tKo theatre, Freomaaons* Lodge, SouUi Afiicau College, police office, &c. Cape Town is the seat of the avprome oourt of justica for the ^ony, the Yice-Admiralty Court, a court for the recovery of small debts, a Government bank called the Lombard Discount Bank ; and contains a savings' bank, a public library, several public free schools, and many literary, scientific, reiigious, and benevolent associations. The town and dititript also possess several water-mills, tanneries, hat, candle, snuff, and soap factories, an iron foundry, breweries, dititil- leri^, aawing and steam mills, <&c. It is likewise plentifully supplied with good water. British residents in India frequently resort here for improving their health; and the town has generally a gay and bustling appearance ; balls and theatres are the favourite an^usements. The environs are very picturesque, and between the town and mountains which surround it, many handsome private gardens have been laid out. The Observatory is a large and elegant structure situate 2^ miles eastward of the town, on a flat sandy heath. The central part of the building js allotted to the instruments, and the wings form the residences of the astronomer and his astiistants. In front of this is the time-bail apparatus. SiGVALa. — ^A time-bail has been erected at the flag-staff at the Observatory, for the purpose of daily communicating to ships in the harbour the instant of on^ o'clock. Cape mean time, which corresponds to lib. i6m. 5s. { 1 n anchor with hempen cables, tlie necessity for so doing being pointed! ont by the danger of their skioatioD." t A breakwater is l>eiug boilt. It starts from the shore at Somerset HospitaLand extends la aicaaitrlydiraeliui. ass*.) Digitized by VjOOQIC 280 TABLE BAY AND CAPE TOWN. Afber a S.E. wind, on the contrary, the water is so beautifully pellucid, that the anchor by which a vessel is riding in 10 fathoms, may be distinctly seen from on board." For a j^eneral description of the Winds, see p. 69. Supplies, possible to work to windward, which is frequently the case, then she must bear awny for Robben Island, taking care, of cour^, to guard against the Whale Rock. A ship may anchor off the north side of that island in 9 or 10 fathoms ; but when going to thi^ anchorage, a good berth should be given to the north-west point of Robben Island to avoid the reef running half a mile from it. Should a south-easter blow so strongly that a ship cannot bring up under the - north end oF Robben Island, and consequently be driven to sea, she should haul round as soon as' possible, and make short tacks to the southward of Green Point, and lie under the high land until the violence of the wind has abated. Capt. Hobsbuboh has observed that ** the south-easter comes from the land with great fury ; it is, therefore, prudent to take in a reef or two in th^ topsails before a ship has reached Green Point, if near or a little past noon. By neglecting this precaution, I have seen ships rounding the point with all sail set in a light breeze ; then suddenly meet the fiery south-easter on opening the hay, which compelled them to let lly everything to save their masts; and one of these ships, whilst the people were aloft securing the topsails, nearly ran on shore, on the east side of the bay, in veering." Port Regulattons. — We believe they are as annexed :— 1. On the arrival of merchant vessels in Table Bay, a proper berth will be pointed out to the master thereof by the port captain, when he boards them i and no master of a merchant vessel shall shift his berth without permission from the port captain, unless in case of extreme urgency, when he shall report his having done so, as early as po^ible, at the pcrt-oifice. 2. Should it be the intention of a master of a vessel to discharge or receive on board any considerable quantity of merchandize, a berth will be pointed out to him as close to the jetty or other landing-place as tRe safety of the vessel and other cir> cumstances will admit ; and the master will then moor with two bower anchors, with an open hawse to the N.N,£., taking especial care, in so mooring, not to overlay the anchor of any other ship, or in any way to give the vessel near him a foul berth. Ships and vessele touching in Table Bay for water and refreshments only may ride at single anchor in the oater anchorage ; but in this ease it is particularly recommended to veer out 80 or 90 fathoms, if they ride by a chain cable, as the liability of starting or fouling the anchor, or breaking the chain, will thereby be greatly lessened ; and, if riding by a rope or coir cable, to run out a stream or good kedge to steady the ship ; and in both cases the other bower anchor should be kept in perfect readiness to let go. When the vessel is properly moored with bower anchorsr, or well seaired with a bower and stream anchor, and with good cables, buoyi«, and buoy ropes, the master will then take the exact plaCe of the ship by the bearing of two land-marks, and the depth of water ; and should any accident occur by which the vessel may drift from her situation, or lose her anchors, a good bearing and depth of water mustt be taken at the time, and the same must be notified in writing to the port-captain. It is particularly recommended that vessels be kept as snug as possible^ to counteract the effects of periodical winds^ which at times blow with considerable violence. BOUT ^AT. — Hout Bay is about ll miles south -wertwajpd of Table BSsyi the Intervening coast is high and bordered with rocks, and therefore requires a berth of two or three miles. The bay run« in to the N JS.^ 8 advisable to give it a wide berth, especially ae a sunken rock has bsen re- porte(l to lia 1 or 1^ roil^ from Slangkop Point; the Cape also should not be closely rouuded, because a reef eiteads from it about a jnile to the west- ward. 9AW> 8AT.— False Bay niny in northward between the Cape of Qood Hope on the western, and Cape Han^klip on the eastern side, whicli capes bear from each other N.W. f W. and S.£. f E., distant I6i miles. The bay is of nearly a .square form, being about 18 miles in length, and the same in bre.'idtii. The soundings in it deci'^ase from 50, 40, and 30 fathoms in mid-channel, to 20, 16, and 10 as the 8h(H*es are approached. Simons Bay is situate in the north-west part of False Bay, 11 miles within the cape, and is about 1^ mile in extent, with depths in the olfing of 11, 10, and S fathoms, shoaling to 16, 12, and 6 feet near the jetties of the town. Gordon Bay lies in the eastern part of False Bay, 14 miles within Cape UangkUp, a»id has a depth of 3, 4, and 12 fathoms. The whole eastern coast of False Bay, from Gordon Bay to Cape Hangklip, wears a 4ismal, inhospitable appearance ; it is one continual rocky chain, and scarcely approachable. Colebrook Bay, so named in^oonsequence of the wi'eck of the CoU» brook, is southward of Gordon's Bay; and farther southward ia Pringle's Bay, where Admiral Pringle is said to have lauded. The land on the east and west sides of False Bay is high ; but Seal Island and the Und on the north side of the bay, from Gordon Bay to Muysenberg Mountain, is low, flat, and sandy, and can only be seen at a short distance. The Cape of Good Hope is a precipitous cliff, with a peak, the summit of which is about 880 feet in height. Cape Hangklip, sometimes called False Cape, and at others Hottentot Point, is a steep bluff, resembling a quoin, which may be seen at 8 leagues distance, and appears to lean over to the west when viewed from south* ward ; hence its name. TiDB$, Sco. — There is no perceptible cnrrent in the bay. A cnrrent varying in strength sets round the Cape of Good Hope to the |iorth>west from the Bellows Bock. IdgbU.'^-On the eastern part of the extremity of the Cape of Good Hope an iron tower, 30 feet high, and painted white, has been erected, from which a revoloing white light, showing a brig/U face for the space of 12 seconds every minute, is exhi- bited at an altitude of 816 feet above the mean level of the sea, and in clear weather is visible at the distance of 36 miles. It can be seen all round the compass, except between the bearings from a vessel of S.S.W. and S. i £., and between S.S.E. ^ £, and S.S.E. | £., on which latter arc of 7^ it is obscured by the intervention of a peak rising 64 feet above the light, at 1800 yards from the light tower. Position of lighUiouse, lat. 34"" 21' 12" S., and long. 18° 29^' G. From the south-west Reef this lighthouse bears £. ^ S. distant 1| mile ; from Bellows Book N.N.E. | £. 2} miles; from the Anvil Hocks N.N.W. i W. 2 mUes; and from the Whittle Hock S.W. by W. i W. 7i miles. There is a lighthouse on the Roman Rocks, abreast Simons Bay, which is 48 feet high, with its upper part painted white, and the lower black. It exhibits n revolving tohite light, showing a bright flash for a period of 12 seconds every half minute* at a height of 64 feet above the sea« visible to the distance of 13 miles in clear weather. Hspm this lighthoiM0» Noah'a Ark bettCB S*W. by W^ smx\j» distant ^ of • l&ib; Digitized by LjOOQIC FALSE BAX AND blMONS BAY. 2b 7 the Dock Yard Clock W. J N. 1| mile ; m^ the Castor Hock, with only 15 Teet on it, N.N.e. i £. 2 cages' kngthf. 2>ttiigi0rs* — The most prominent dangers met with w)ien entering False and SiiDous Brtys are, the South- west ti^, Bellows, Anvil, Dias, Whittle, and Roman Rock 8, the rocks in the vicinity of Seal Island, and those fronting the shiore eastward of 3imoiiJi TowQ. The Stnith-west Beef isa rpcjcy patch one mile W. by S. f S. from the south* weKt extreme oi' th^ Cape of Grood Hope» being distant If mile W. ^ S. from the lighthouse; b^v^ei^ it a|>d tbe shore the ground is foul and rocky. The Bellows is a imrge ro^, «v^a witli tli9 water^s edge, over which th^ sea constantly breaks ; it lies with the JightJboys^ oo the Cape bearing N.N.£. i £. distant 2^ miiei*, and has deep W4ter all rovud it. Th^ ^nvU iB anotJier rocki separated from the Bellows by a sale channel (which, however, it may pot be wise to attempt) of XO to 22 fothoms ; it baa 10 leet water oyer it, and Mee with the lit(hthonse beaiing N.N.W. i W., distant 2 miles, and the Bellows W. } S., 2 miles ; the sea breajcs upon it only at low waXer and with a heavy swelL A master of the navy has asserted, with evident probability, that there are other nocks jaea^* tjie Anvil, but we have np partioulars respecting them. The Diiu is a small rock above water, named after the leelebrated navigator who fint doubled the aouthern promontory of Afriea; it lie^ about a cable's length from ahoine, and 925 yards 8, by £. f £. from the lighthouse. S.6.£.-war4 H ^^^ ^^^ ^® ^^V^ lighthouse is the north-western edge of an extensive bank of rocky soundings, whereon the depths are from 12 to 25 fathoms. Around and between it and the Anvil Bock are 37, 26, 40, and 20 fathoms* It has not been thoroughly examined, but is supposed to be about 3 miles in extent. The WhiitU is the shoalest spot on a ledge of rocks, named the Trident, which is about a mile in circumference, and has on it soundings of 4, 4^, 5, and 15 fathoms. The Whittle is about the size of a boat, bottom upward, and the least water yet found over it is 13 feet, but there may be even leas than that discovered when a more complete examination is made; from this depth the lead will suddenly drop into 7 fathcmiB, and, therefore, great care should be exercised when approacliing it. The tide of flood and ebb sets strongly over the ledge. Fromthe Whittle the Cape lighthouse bears B.^f, by W.i W. distant 7i miles, and the nearest point (Point Miller) of the western shore N.W. \ W. 4^ miles, with fn>m 20 to 25 fathoms between. Its position is further indiisated by two beacons, the western having a staff and black ball, and the eastern a staff and white ball, and both situate on the western ahore, 2 1 miles northward of the Cape lighthoiise ; when they are in a line W. | 8. they lead to the rock. There is also another beacon with a staff and white ball, near Simons Town, which, if kept in a line with the beacon on Oatland Point,* bearing N.W. by N., will likewise lead on to it. By day, if the weather be hazy and the * The beacon om the shore near Oailand Point, and 8^ cables fh>ni the whiU beacon, with staiT and ball, on the shoulder beneath Simons Berg. From the Whittle Rock the two beacons are in line, and aLiO in line with a large patch of whttewaabrd roeks on the hUi iM>rih-we^t of SimoDS 1'own, bearing N.N.W. i W. The advan- tage of tbia new beacon is, that it points out to vessels that they are westward or inside the Whittle, whilst it la kept open eastward of the beacon on the shoulder beneath Simons Berg. This was somewhat difficult with the patch of whitewashed rocks for a mark, as tliey were obliged to run far to the eastward before the patch opened out clear of the shoulder of Simons Berg. yeMsJs^iMitkasMMnnE4«ii4 Aad this patch serTicsaUe Dnr ppinting oat the poaitian of tlie WbiiUe. Digitized by LjOOQIC 288 FALSE BAY AND SIMONS BAY. latter beacons indistinct, there is a dark peak (Chapman Peak) over the southern side of Hout Bay, which if brought on with Elsey Peak on a N. by W. \ W. bearing will lead clear of, but dose to the west side of the Whittle Bock. Or, Boman Bocks lighthouse in line with Elsey Peak will lead midway between Whittle Book and Miller's Point. The Maman Mocks, now distinguished by a black and white lighthouse upon them, are nearly level with the sea at high water, and situate in the fairway of the entrance to Simons Bay ; they are about 130 yards in length from north to south, and 80 yards in breadth. A small detached rock of 15 feet, named Castor, lies 2 cables' lengths N.E. by N. i N. from the lighthouse ; it is marked by a beacon placed 30 fathoms north-eastward of it. Between this rock and the lighthouse are a few patches with from 19 to 24 feet over them, and from 6 to 10 fathoms between them and the Boman Bocks. Vessels should, therefore, give the lighthouse a good berth when passing round its eastern and northern sides, leaving the above-men- tioned beacon to the southwards Noah's Ark, having the form of a barn, lies nearly 3 cables' lengths from the shore, immediately under Whittle Bock Beacon, with that beacon S.W.by W. i W. ; it is about 10 or 15 feet above the sea at high water. Close around it there are from 6 to 6 fathoms water, and within it several rocky patches of 8 and 8 feet, so that, when passing through the channel south-westward of the Boman Bocks, the shore should have a berth of 4 or 5 cables given it, till up with the Phoenix Beacon, which marks the extremity of a dangerous reef of 3 and 5 feet only. Sea Island, lying 14 miles N.E. \ E. from the Cape lighthouse, is small, and surrounded with rocks, especially on its northern side, where they extend off fully \ a mile, and probably the same on its eastern. A large rocky patch, named York Shoal, of from 2 to 6 fathoms, lies 1^- mile southward of it, and there is a shoal spot 3i miles distant in a S.E. \ E. direction from the islet. Ano]ioraffe.^Simon8 Bay is considered a safe retreat for thirteen or fourteen sul of ships, 'where they may be moored in security in all seasons. It is sheltered from winds between the N. round by W. and S.E., but, being small, cannot contain a numerous fleet sheltered from S.E. winds, though it is said that those winds coming from the bottom of the bay, or from the mountains bordering the coast — namely, between S.E., by the E. and N., never blow so strong as to endanger shipping, so that the bay may actually be looked upon as a safe retreat, wherein vessels may lie sheltered from all winds. The best situation to lie in is, with Noah's Ark S.E. by S. ; the Boman Bocks E.S.E. i E., distant 1\ mile, and the time-ball • near the dockyard in Simons Town W. by S. \ S. In this berth, you will be distant about \ a mile from the shore, in 9^ or 10 fathoms, and have sufficient room in case of driving, from whatever quarter the wind may happen to come, as you are quite sheltered by the mountains from those which blow with the greatest violence. If intending to make a long stay, or in a smaller vessel, you may anchor further in, in 8 or 9 fathoms, with Cape Hangklip entirely shut in by the eastern side of Simons Bay. Mb. C. p. BBLLA.UY, Master B.N., says, " You ought to moor your vessel in this road S.E. and N.W., with this particular caution, that, from the month of May to « Stgnal^^The time signal-ball drops daily at one o'clock preoiaely of mean time at the Cape Obienratccy. Its position is 8''46 (or eleveii seconds of time) W. of that observatonr. Digitized by VjOOQLC SIMONS BAY. 289 September, jotir stoutest ground-tackle should lie to the N.W., as the winds from that quarter blow the oftenest and with the greatest violence ; on the contrary, from September to May, you ought to lay it to the S.E., because the south-easterly winds are then prevailing. However, it is seldom that any vessel goes thither in the latter season. Table Bay being at that time much preferable."* GosDON Bat affords good shelter from S.£. and northerly winds, and has several fair landing-places from half-flood to half-ebb, but at no other time of tide, excepting at the bar, which is formed by a bank of sand, and cannot damage the bottom of the boat : this bank has generally about two feet water over it, but at low water, spring tides, it is perfectly dry. There are other landing-places which with S.E. winds are smooth ; but you must always be attentive to the tide. Here there is good anchoring ground, holding well, being of coarse brown sand ; vessels may anchor in from 13 to 15 fathoms, with the peak of Hangklip just open southward of the south point of Gordon Bay, and with the upper farmhouse open to the left of the lower farmhouse ; small vessels may ride farther in, where the inner anchor is placed in good security, the Cape of Good Hope being shut in by Gordon Bay south point. Winds, &c. — For a general description of the Winds, see pp. 69, 70. Supplies, &c. — ^The country being mountainous, little or nothing is produced here, and there are comparatively few houses exclusive of the public buildings. All kinds of supplies may, however, be obtained, or damages repaired ; there is a patent slip capable of hauling up a vessel of 1000 tons burthen ; also a magazine of marine stores. Victualling and other necessaries are procured from Cape Town, which is 17 or 18 miles distant You may wood and water here very readily ; the water is both good and abundant ; and, in case of necessity, a vessel may heave down by a hulk. ▲U the landing-places in Gbrdon Bay afford plenty of water, running down in streams, but the best is near the fish-house; here, although the passage is difficult and intricate, it has a spacious beach, well defended from the sea by reefs running in opposite directions, the only obstacle being the delay for the tide. Fruits, vegetables, and stock can be had here, but not expeditiously, as they must be brought from a considerable distance. If a pier were constructed here and another in Simons Bay, suitable even for small vessels, it would probably be the means of creating a market for the produce of the eastern part of the colony, more convenient than that of Cape Town. DiBBCTiONS. — The Bellows Rock always breaks ; but not so the Anvil, which only breaks at low water and with a heavy swell. Sailing vessels should not pass between these d|ingers and the South-west Beef and the Cape, unless with a com- manding breeze. The most advisable course, when coming in from the westward with a N.W. wind, is to pass southward and eastward of the Bellows and Anvil, at * CAfT. Flixoers has observed, •* I found it to be a prevailing sentiment, that, were it not for the advantages of Cape Town, Simons Bay would, in every respect, be preferable for the Royal Doclcyard and the equipment of f hips of the Royal Navy. It was remarked to me, by an offieer of disoemment, captain of the flag-ship, that insunc«8 of yessels being driven Arom their anchors by winds blowing into Simons Bay were exceedingly rare. He had observed that the strain Qpon the cables with these winds was mach less than with those of equal strength blowing off the land ; and he accoanted for it ft-om the water thrown into the bay by sea-winds rebounding from the shore, and forming what is termed an undertow, which tended to keep a ship up to her anchors. This Ukes plaee In Simons Bsy with S.B. winds, but not in Table Bay with those fh)m the N.W^., which blow into it, owing in part to the distance at which ships ride there flrom the land, and apparently, also, from th^ uodertow passing out on th« QMtom 8id« of thQ bay, clear of tbs anchoring groond." V Digitized by LjOOQIC 290 SIMONS BAY, the distance of 2 miles, or aooording to oireamstttnces. From abreast the Bellows, at 2 or 3 miles, haul up no higher than E.S.E. or E. by 8., until 3'ou havo run 5 or r» miles in this direction, whence you may steer E.N.E. and N.E., till the llghthouf^t^ bears W.N.W., when you will be clear of the Anvil. In advancing thus, you may always gain a proper anchoring-gronnd, in case of a calm or au unforeseen shifting of the wind. You may now haul up N.N.E.-ward, and pass eastward of Whittle Rook, between it and the reefs southward of Seal Island, thougl) the western channel 'm undoubtedly the best for strangers. Should you, however, wish to adopt the former do not bring the Cape lighthouse southward of W.S.W., until Noah's Ark bears N.W., yon will then go clear of the Whittle Rock. Do not go too near Seal Island, on aooonnt of the rooky patch which lies southward of the island, over which the sea will oftentimes break. Steer now towards the Roman Rocks, giving them a berth on either hand, as most convenient, especially their northern side ; haul into Simons Bay, and anchor where before directed. The foregoing, however, is considered by some as running unnecessarily eastward, and thereby occasioning much loss of time and ground, accordingly they recommend leaving the Bellows i a mile to the northward, and steering E. ^ S. till the Cape lighthouse bears N.W., and then haul up N. by E. to pass inside the Whittle. Having brought the southern end of the lofty Zwartkop Range (which is over the northern side of Smith's Winkle Bay) to bear N. W. by W., you should keep the Cape lighthouse between S.S.W. | W. and S.W ^- W., until the Roman Rocks light bears between N. and N. by W. ^ W., when you may hanl towards it. These limits leave the rocks off Miller Point on the one hand, and tlie Whittle on the other, half a mile distant. If the Roman Rocks light is brought in a line with Elsey Peak, N. f W., it will lead up midway between Miller's Point and the Whittle. As you approach Simons Bay, Noah's Ark will soon bo discerned ; it is a smooth level island, appearing like a pontoon at a distance ; but the most conspicuous objects, and first to be seen, are the white sand-downs, appearing like snow, in the hollows between the mountains to the north-west of Noah's Ark. l^'ou may coast along Noah's Ark, as it is steep, and has 9 fathoms close to it ; in the channel between it and the Roman Rocks are 10 to 15 fathoms ; hence a vessel should steer direct for the white aand-downs to the anchorage, passing eastward and northward of the Phodnix Beacon and Rock. If working with a N.W. wind, you may go northward of the Roman Rocks, taking care not to go too near them on account of the detached rooks already alluded to. This is also a clear channel, and may indeed be deemed more convenient with the winds from the N.W., as it is double the width of that between the Rocks and Noah's Ark. Mb. J. Bbown, of H.M.S. Winchester, says,* " When a vct^sol has rounded the Ci^pe of Good Hope from the westward, the Roman Rocks light will open clear of Miller Point on the bearing of about N. by E. ; and if it be intended to work np False Bay, between the Whittle Rock and the western shore, the light should not be brought westward of N. by W. \ W. until she is well up with the high land about Miller Point, and consequently northward of the WTiittle ; nor should the light be brought at any time to bear eastwai-d of N. on account of the rocks off the western shore. • AHhoQgh these direetiont were written before the Ughthoute was erected on the Boman Rocks, and while the lightreMel was moored on their northern side, the substitution of the Ughfhomtf for the Hghtvestwl does not at all affect their valne. Digitized by LjOOQIC SIMONS BAY. 291 " If tlie voasel is to work up eastward of tho Whittle, the light should not be brought north ot* N.N.W. ^ W., in order to avoid tbat rock; nor westward of N-W. by W. J W., so us to gfive a sufficient berth to Seal Island and the shoal near it. But by whichever of thotie channels a ship approaches, short tacks should be made until certain of being within 5 miles of the light. " With a leading wind the light may be brought to bear N. by W., which will clear the Whittle ; and that course should be continued till within a mile of the light. The light must then be well opened on the port bow, so as to round it at not less than half a mile distance. When the light has been brought to bear S.S.W., steer in Weit for the anchorage, and bring up in 14 to 10 fathoms, according to the weather. '* When coming fVom the eastward round Cape Hangklip, it will be observed that the Whittle lies nearly in a direct line between that cape and Simons Bay ; and therefore, if the wind be fair, bring Roman Books light to bear N.W. by N. and steer for it. '< These instructions are intended for seamen not acquainted with Simons Bay ; those who know the passage between the Boman Bocks and Noah's Ark, will pro- bably adopt it in the day-time, but from the position of the Phoenix Bock, and the narrowness of the passage, all ships at night should pass eastward of the light, and haul round it on the north side." Yessels from eastward should not bring the Cape lighthouse to bear more westerly than N.W. i W., by which they will clear all danger off Cape Hangklip. A tongue of low land stretches from this cape in a S.W. ^ W. direction for 1^ mile, rendering caution necessary in passing Cape Hangklip in hazy weather, especially if bound into Simons Bay. If bound eastward out of Simons Bay, leave as soon as the north-westerly winds beg:in to blow ; but if you intend to sail westward, you must wait till the north- westerly winds are on their decline, and get under sail in the roadstead, so soon as those winds shift from W.X.W. to West, for, as they most commonly veer thence suooessiTely to S.W. South, and S.E., they will prove fair for doubling the Cape of Good Hope, and lying up afterwards to N.W. The only directions to be given for leaving the bay is to reverse those for entering it. To ships working out of Simons Bay, Gordon Bay will afford a ready shelter on the approach of night, for they can stretch into the outer part of it, and anchor for the night, well in shore, with a kedge or stream anchor ; for it is generally observed, that when the wind blows strongly from the S.£. at the anchorage in Simons Bay, and other parts of False Bay, a ship will not have advanced half a mile within €k>rdon outer bluff before she will get into a light breeze, scarcely sufficient to carry her to the anchorage ; here she may lie until daylight ; then weighing and stretching out into the true wind, and work out either round the Cape of Good Hope or Cape Hangklip. Gordon Bay will prove equally safe and advantageous for vessels standing in for Simons Bay late in the evening, and not considering it safe to run for anchorage there ; for then they may stand over for Gordon Bay, and anchor for the night : they cannot mistake it, the land in the front, when standing eastward, being so very remarkable. This might easily be made a good place for shipping, for on each side of the bar are rocks, with plenty of large loose stones about them, and by piling up these stones upon the rocks, a pier might be construeted to any distance out ; and if tj2 292 SIMONS BAY, a Bwin^Dg crane were erected on the Bouth pier, it would oonsiderably facilitate the lading and unlading of the boat?. The same plan might be pnrsned with the bay northward of the fort. The harbour regulations and signals of Simons Town are similar, we believe, to those at Cape Town. See pages 276, 277, and 282. From False Bay the coast trends 11 miles in an E. bv S. -\ S. direction, and is MA all fhA WI.V ^fK .^^ra ^..j|g||,y ^y^^ ||.n T.ac. .f 4^ .1;^, qIosc to or at a / / / Digitized by VjOOQIC Digitized by Google DYER AND OEYSER ISLANDS. 293 taking care to give a 2 fathom rocky patch in the centre of the bay, upon which the sea often breaks, a wide berth. H.M.S. Hydra anchored here, with Duin Fontein Berg bearing E.S.E., southerly ; extremity of Point Danger S.W. by W. | W. ; and the sand patch in the bay S.S.E. \ E., southerly. Danger Point has rooks about it extending oft* more or less \ a mile ; there is also a rock 12 feet under water, known as the Birkenhead Rock, from the loss of H.M.S. Birkenhead upon it in 1852, situate W.S.W. 1 mile from the extremity of the point, whose position is generally indicated by breakers. Upon account of the Birkenhead Bock it is requisite to give the land hereabout a wide berth, especially as that danger is very steep, the lead dropping from it at once into 7 or 10 fathoms ; the appearance of the shore is also deceptive, being low and backed with high land ; hence Point Danger was usually termed Bluff Point, but improperly, as the hij^h land which appears at a distance like a bluff is at least 3 leagues inside of it. Danger Point is prolonged under water about 3 miles in a similar direction to the inclination of the land hereabout (W.S.W.), by a bank of 10 fathoms, increasing to 20 fathoms as you recede from the coast. Almost all the soundings upon this bank are of rook and coral.* BYSK AWB amVBMn IBl»AMnB.^¥toiti tlie extremity of Danger Point the coast runs E. by S. i S. 6i miles to a small barred stream, named Oilkraal, and then turns southward 3 3- miles to Sandy Point, a low projection from the coast, as its name implies. Behind this shore the countiy has but slight elevation, and is covered with bushes and stunted trees. Dyer and Gey.sor Islands arc situate 2\ miles W. by S. from Sandy Point, and almost the whole space between is oooupied by a reef extending from the point, the channel left being very narrow, and safe only to those acquainted with the locality ; this channel lies between the east end of Dyer Island and a rock above water inshore ; it has a depth of 2-J &thoms, and is only suitable, therefore, for small vessels,— when the wind blows from S.E. or South tin? sea breaks quite across it. The islands arc small, low, and rocky, and hence are * Danger I'oint and the nci<;libonriDg coast formed the salgect of a communication to the Ca/tr Monitor f by Mr. Hacleau, when engaged in triangulating the coast, previous to its hydrographies I rarvey, dated March 4, 1853. The foUowing is an extract : — " One of my trigonometric stations is upon the sontliom extremity of the bluflT or promontory of Danger Point, at the height of lOo.'i feet above the level of the sea. From the bluff a tongue of low land, panially covered with bash, runs out i^outh-westerly at an angle with tlic meridian of 63^*^, then submergea, forming a ridge or shoal in the same direction, gradually deepening, and extending out to a considerable distance. Durinjr a gale the water seemed to break as far as two miles or more ft-om the extremity of the land, though the fiirthest out visible rock in calm weather was only about 600 yards Atrni it. ** This projecting land, and its continuation under water, forms the west horn of an extensive bight or bay, of which Gunner's Quoin with its projecting shoal is the eastern ; it forms also the eastern horn of the sweep to Mndge Point. Dyer's Island is situate close in on its eastern side, being separated from it by a narrow channel. "On the south-east side of it the shore is rocky, but a boat may pass along it and through the narrow channel just mentioned, up to the sandy beach in the immediate vicinity of two farm- bonaes. On the north-west side the shore is also rocky, but 1 think less so. Close in is a stalac- tite cavern, immediately under the bluflT; whence to Mudge Point the beach oonsisto chiefly of sand. On this side I do not recollect having seen any house nearer than that now occupied by Captaih Smales. " Hie rocks are chiefly of sandstone : but on the land this formation is combined with lime- stone-— a characteristic of all the promontories between Capes Hangklip and Agullias. ** With respect to geographical position, I observed the depression of the extremity of the point below the horizon of my station. From this, together with elements derived Arom triaogulation, I find that the latitude of Point Danger is 34"" 87' 44"; the latitude of the breakera Just men- tioned about 34"^ 40', and their longitude east of the Naval Yard at Simons nty,<[^Q^,|*C 294 DYER AND G£YS£R ISLANDS. visible only at ft short distance^ the difficulty of distinguishing them bebg increased when viewed with the background of sand-hills on the adjacent shore. Dyer and Geyser Islands, of which the former is nearer the coast, are seated on a reef which extends from them IJ mile in a W.N.W. direction ; the edges of this reef are steep, as from them the lead at once drops into 7 or 8 fathoms. On their S.S.E. sides the islands are bold, and here the sea generally breaks with great yiolenoe, especially daring the prevalence of southerly winds. The islands cannot be considered otherwise than very dangerous to vessels running along the land, and must therefore have a wide berth ; a depth of 20 or 26 fathoms will be quite near enough, as these soundings will place the vessel at little more than a mile from them. Dyer and Geyser Islands, with the reef connecting and projecting westward from them form, with the reef running from Sandy Point, a natural breakwater, on the north side of which vessels may anchor and find protection from southerly and south- easterly gales. When approaching this anchorage from the southward, great care will be necessary to clear the dangerous reef which projects from them in a W.K. W. direction, as previously mentioned, and especially when the sea is so calm that its position is undistlnguishable by breakers. To clear it, keep the extremity of Danger Point in one with the valley in the high land near Cape Hangklip, and steer thus until the highest part of Geyser Island is in one with the Quoin; change the course now to the north-eastward and steer for Duin Fontein Berg (the bluff hill behind Danger Point), and when the extreme of Dyer Lsland is in line with the Quoin, steer for the Quoin, and anchor in 10 fathoms with Dyer Island extremes bearing S.S.E. J E. and S.S.W. J W., southerly; the pile on Duin Fontein Bei-g N. by E. ; the exti-emity of Danger Point N.W. ? N. ; and the pile on Gunner's Quoin S.E. The bottom is of sand, and the holding ground good, but it must be considered a very exposed anchorage and unfit to ride in when the wind blows from the S.W. quarter ; it is safe only so long as the wind is not westward of S.S.W. From Sandy Point the coast trends S.S.E. 12 miles to Quoin Point, a headland situate in Lat. 34^ 46f ' and Long. 19° 38^'. It is foul more or less all the way, and the 20 fathom line of soundings is nowhere further out than 2 miles. Two shoals, which may possibly be dangerous, lie about midway between the points at a mile from the shore, with the hills named False Quoin, 888 feet high, bearing N.E. by N. ; Carruther, 630 feet high, E. J S.j and Gunner's Quoin, 997 feet high, S.E. by E. On the eastern of these shoals a depth of not less than 4 fathoms was found by the surveyors ; but they remarked that the sea broke over them occasionally. Q«om Point is a square projection of hummocky land, and distinguishable when viewed from the southward by two sand-hills near its extremity j from it foul ground extends out a mile south-westerly, upon which the sea generally breaks with violetace. This foul ground is very steep, there being soundings of 9 and 12 fathoms close to it, which rapidly increase to 20, the latter being at not more than 2^ miles from the point on its south-west side, and at less than 1 J mile from it on its western side, and consequently at only a moderate distance from the reef. The country behind Quoin Point is low and bushy. The hill Gunner's Quoin, or Buffel Jagt Berg, as it is named by the Dutch, is 3^ miles northward from the point, and may be recognised from some positions of view by its resemblance to a quoin : it is 997 feet high. AH this coast is eipooed to gales from the i CAPE AGULHAS. 295 heavy breakers upon it ; so violent are these breakers, that it is generally impossible to effect a landing. There is a small rocky cove at 2f miles northward of the extremity of Quoin Point where boats can land when the wind is ftom the south-eastward. From it the pile on Gmmer's Quoin bears about E. by N. The ooast eastward of Quoin Point for about 7 miles is very dangerous, being finmted by reefs which extend 1^ mile from it ; on the outermost of these are two small rocks above water. As these reefs are steep they should not be approached nearer than the depth of 30 or 25 fathoms, and it should be remembered that the country immediately behind them is low and bushy, so that an error in the estima- tion of distance can easily be made.* The soundings of this part of the coast as far as Cape Agulhas are shovm by the recent survey of Li«utb»ant Da^tmak, E.N., to be very irregular; hence the need of more than usual caution when running along the land. CAVB A»VtaUkM.^¥rom Quoin Point to Gape Agulhas the distance is about 17 miles in a S.E. i £. direction; between, the ooast recedes about 2} miles from an imaginary line connecting those points. The Cape is the most southerii projection of the continent of Africa, and is described as a headland of moderate elevation visible some miles at sea, the hills forming it rising to about 460 feet above the water. Bocks extend out from its shore from i to i a mile, close to which is a depth of about 4 fathoms, which rapidly deepens to 12, 15, and 20 fathoms, the latter being at 2 miles southward from tlio light lionse. Sib T. MACLKA.B, in charge of f .. Observatory at the Cape of Good Hope, says of Cape Agulhas — "It is the rocky projection from the south-east comer of the promontory of Agulhas,, the centre of which promontory is about i of a mile west- ward of the projection, and about 200 yards more southerly, being the most southern part of Africa. The features of the laud about Agulhas distinguish it from the neighbonring headlands. A ridge-shaped undulating dump rising from the flat ground is separated into four ridge-shaped hills by irregular ravines running nearly true East and West. The middle ridges enter wedge-like at the east end, and arc lost towards the centre, where the ravine widens to a mile in breadth. The middle ridges are the lowest ; the northern and southern are of equal height. When viewed at a distance from seaward, easterly or ioesterl^f the north and south elevations being seen nearly end on, resemble two oblong hummocks; but the former, extending more easterly, appears the highest as seen from the eastward. When viewed at a distance from the eoutktoard, the south ridge masks the others, save at their east end ; but the ravines being hid, the whole appear to be united.f The highest part of the south ridge is 455 feet above the level of the sea, and its * IB tbe Adniralty ssUing dlnctions Ibr this oosst. it is stated that " H.M.S. Ifydm fiMnd tolerable shelter and smooth water, in a strong N. W. wind, at anchor under (he lee of the reefs eastward of Qaoln Point, and it is posslUe that a small vessel might find the same dose under the extreme of the pointy between which and the reefs there appears to be a clear b«t narrow passage. Between Qnoin Point and Cape Agulhas the ooast is low and sandy, except abreast of the flat-topped range of Zoet Anys Berg, where the shore is steep and rocky. The whole of it is exposed to the AiU Ibrce of the ocean swell, and landing upon it is impossible.'* t Only the sooth and ihiddle ridges are shown on the chart. They are all given on CoLORSX. HlCHZLL'S plan. Digitized by LjOOQIC 296 CAPE AGULHAS, true meridional difltance from the shore is almost ezacUj one mile. From this point the descent eastward is rather gradual. Westward the descent is at first steep, then slightly undulates. Southward it is steep, then undulates to within 300 yards of the shore, where the ground becomes flat. " It is on the first undulation from the shore, which is about 55 feet above the level of the sea, that the lighthouse is built. The position of this building is nearly true South from the highest point before mentioned, and at N. 30° W. 520 yards from the point generally known as Cape Agulhas." Uglitboiise. — The lighthouse on Cape Agulhas is 100 feet high, and painted in red and white zones. It shows ti fixed ichite light at 12S feet above the sea, visible at the distance of 18 miles in clear weather, when it bears between S.E. by E. and W. — t.tf., over 19 points of the compass. Its position is Lat. 31° 49' 45" S., and Long. 20° O' 40" E. The following particulars relative to this light are from the official notification of its establishment :— "^a vessel approach Cape Agulhas from the icesticard the light will be first seen on a S. 67° 15' E. (or nearly S.E. by E. ^ E.) bearing. The extreme end of the low ground called Gunner's Quoin Point bears N. 52° 30' W. (or N.W. | W.) from the lighthouse, distant 19^ miles, but is not visible from it. The sea was remarked breaking a long way oflF the point ; it will, therefore, be necessary to keep ofi*the land until the light becomes visible. « '*j(f a vessel approaching the Cape from the eastward passes Struys Point at the distance of 5 miles from the shore, and steel's a W. by S. course exactly, phe will pass the most southerly projection of Northumberland Point reef at the distance of 4} miles, and the light at the distance of 5| miles, and clear Gunner's Quoin. This is the limit northward within which no vessel should be found. It secures every advantage that could possibly be obtained by a closer course, and at that distimce the light will be brilliant. ** In clear weather the light may be seen, when 5 or 6 miles eastward of Struys Point, from a look-out at the height of 35 feet ; and if the vessel should then chance to be close in shore, by steermg the above course she might touch the shoal ofi* Struys Point. To guard against this, when the light is first seen it should be brought immediately to bear W. by N., and keeping this bearing of the light, the vessel will pass at 2 miles southward of any danger respecting Struys Point. " Care should be taken when approaching the land before the light is discovered, for in hazy weather, or when there is spray with a fresh breeze, combined with tlie distance of Struys Point (about 15 miles), the light may be faint or altogether obscured, and the vessel may get within the line of danger. Under these circum- stances the lead should not be neglected, and the depth should not be less than 20 fathoms, without putting about immediately to the south. The like precautions are required even during daylight, particularly in foggy weather, for the high land of Agulhas may be invisible while the sand-hills of Struys Bay and the breakers off Northumberland Point are distinctly seen. On these occasions it is difficult to determine whether the vessel is eastward or westward of Struys Point, because the shore features of the bay eastward of that point are similar to those of Struys Bay, although the extent is less. " Sailing vessels in particular should adhere to these rules, for if it should fall calm, the heavy swell which constantly rolls towards the shore would carry them with it, and the only resource, that of anchoring, would piobnbly be of no avail, Digitized by* -^^*>"^ '!i}^6g^^' STRUTS BAY. 297 from the rocky nature of the bottom, combined with the swell. The 8t, Mnngo is said to have been wrecked in this way." srOBTSUMBXB&JlurB Ponrr.— From the lighthouse on Cape Agulhas to Northumberland Point the distance is 3-J miles. Immediately eastward of the light- house are two indentations of the coast, of which the first bears the name of St. Mungo's Inlet ; the second is wider and deeper, and the projection which separates them is called St. Mungo's Point. From the last inlet tbe shore runs jagged to the dangerous projection called Northumberland Point, from being the site of the wreck of the Duhe of Northumberland, which point forms the west horn of Struys Bay. The whole of the beach from the west side of the promontory of Agulhas to Northumberland Point consists of rugged sandstone and quartz rocks, or rocky reef, perfectly impracticable even for a boat At the promontory, groups of rock prevail ; at the cape, rocks and a rocky reef extending out J- of a mile ; at the inlets, flat rocky i-eef exposed at low water for -J of a mile ; and thence rocks to Northumberland Point, where it is sand and reef. As this iron-bound shore is exposed to the full force of the Southern Ocean, the sea breaks heavily upon it, especially during the prevalence of southerly winds — a vessel, therefore, touching upon it has not the slightest chance of escaping destruction. Northumberland Point is low and sandy close up to the beach, and from it a very dangerous ledge of rocks projects out about a mile in a S.£. by S. \ S. direction, the extremity of which bears nearly E. by S, 3y% miles from the lighthouse. Westwai*d from the point the reefs extend out about \ of a mile, and break heavily when the wind is from the S.£. In one or two places it breaks further out, but in no place further than half a mile. When surveying at Northumberland Point, Mb. Maci£ab observed breakers at some distance from the land, the position of which he fixed by intersection as follows:— From Northumberland Point, S. 58° 3(y E. (S.E. by E. i E.) limile, and from the lighthouse on Cape Agulhas S. 81° 40' E. (E. f S.) 4J miles. BAT.-^truys Bay lies between Northumberland and Struys Points, which are distant from each other 11^ miles. The coast between is low and sandy, but at a short distance from the beach there is a line of sand-hills, varying from 50 to 160 feet in height, some of which are covered with dark-coloured bush, a feature that also distinguishes the coast eastward of Struys Point as far as the next point to it. There is no high land sufficiently near to interfere with the distinguishing character of the hills northward of Agulhas as viewed from seaward. The landing place in Struys Bay is in a small bay or cove north-westward of Northumberland Point, which is sheltered by a projecting shelf of shingle from each extremity of the cove. The jetty, constructed from pieces of wreck, renders the landing easy ; but at the outer horns of the shingle there is only water sufficient for a boat at quarter flood in fine weather. Three or four huts at the head of the jetty point out its position from the bay. Immediately in the neighbourhood, on higher ground, is a stone dwelling-house with a signal staff a few yards behind it, termed the TeUffraph'Staff on the chart. Stroys Point, the eastern extremity of Struys Bay, is the outer extreme of a number of sand-hills. It bears from Northumberland Poiijt^^. ^^^^9^^ or 298 STBUrS BAY. K i N., and N. 82° 20 E., or B. i N. from the Uglithouse on Cape Agulhas • This point is more dangerous than Northumberland Point, because reefe lie much further off its shore, and there is no high land by which a seaman may determine the position of his ship. Circumstances did not permit Mb. Macleab to include this point in his survey of Cape Agulhas, but during a strong south-easter he observed from the summit of the sand-hills near the point that the reef extended seaward about three miles, and that breakers were then breaking upon it with violence. Like Northumberland Point, the colour of the water off Strays Point changes to seaward from brown to light, then dark green, from which it may be inferred, together with the known shallowness of the sea off Northumberland Point, tiiat the lead as well as the colour of the water will alwaj's wani a ship of the vicinity of danger. In Struys Bay shelter may be obtained only during westerly or north-westerly- winds, as all others blow directly on shore, consequently the bay must be avoided with the wind between S.W., round by S., and E. With any of the latter winds it is unsafe, if not impossible to ride in it, for the sea rises to such an extent as to break in 7 or 8 fathoms, a circumstance that was remarked on two occasions while H.M. steamer Dee was standing off waiting for the weather to moderate to enable her to anchor. At the time of anchoring, although the wind had subsided several hours, the water nearly broke in 7 fathoms, where the anchor was let go ; and at the place whence she had put to sea three days before in 42 fathoms, the sea was breaking heavily. As a general rule, vessels seeking shelter iu this bay, in a N.W. gale, should put to sea immediately after it subsides, for the wind frequently changes iu a few hours from a $itrong N.W. to a S.E. or 8. |X)iut, in whicli cone it is very difficult to work out, in consequence of the heavy sea that rises with these winds. Whe9i anchoring, tlie best place is iu 5 fathoms sand, with the large stonehouse neai' the beach bearing W. ^ S., and the sandy extreme of Northumberland Point S.W. by S. Here the bottom is dear, while to the westward and nearer the reef, where the water is smoother, the bottom is foul, — rocks interspersed with patches of sand. The latter is unsafe ; the cable is liable to snap from fouling the rocks, an accident that befd the Dee while lying there in a light south-west wind, accom- panied by the usual swell. Vessels from the westward should not bring the lighthouse on Cape Agulhas to bear more westerly than W. by N. i N., until Northumberland Point bears N.W. i N. Then steer N.N.E. or N.E. by N., until the stonehouse previously mentioned bean W.N.W. ; this will lead clear of the outer detached reefs off Nortiiumberland Point. Proceed now to the N.W., and bring the anchoring marks on. The light on Cape Agulhas is not visible from the anchoring ground, owing to the swell of the intervening land. Mb. Maclear says, ** During our examination of the coast in September, 1848, ho current was obsei*ved in Struys Bay, nor about the coast 2| miles from the shore, so &r to the westward of A^lhas as the letter £ on the chart ; but it was confi- dently asserted by fishermen, and the residents at Struys Bay, that a very strong current frequently sets to the westward round Northumberland Point. • So stated in the original official notice of the establlsb&ent of Agnlhai Light, but the bear- tag. mmt to be I1W17 E. and B. i N. brtiK riiirt. ^.^.^.^^^ ^^ i^OOglC STRUYS BAY. 299 ''A riiip becalmed in the ofibg was obaerved setting eastward, at a rate exoeecUng a knot an honr. On two other occasions, cloee to the shore, about 2 miles westward of Agulhas lighthoase, the stream ran during a whole night steadily to the N.W., at 1^ knot an hour. These changes may probably be traced to the effiBct of the wind. "Circumstances did not allow of the tides being observed with due accuracy. Two copper plugs were let into rocks south-west of tlie lighthouse, to mark the high and low water points nearly at spring tides. The comparisons with these plugs on October 15, 16, 18, 19, 28, and 29, and an observation at the jetty in Strays Bay on October 28, give the establishment and rise and fall nearly similar to what prevails in Table Bay and Simons Bay.'* GoiurAKDEB J. FooTE, R.N., of H.M.S. Rosamond, in 1848, has remarked of Struys Bay :*— " With any northing in the wind, vessels may find good holding ground in 7 fathoms, sand, with Northumberland Point bearing S.W. ; but while there is any southing the anchorage is exposed. There is an excellent boat harbour formed by a reef of rocks, to enter which you must pass over a bar, whidi, when the BoMimond was there, did not break at all heavily, and we were informed by an ii^bitant of the bay that by keeping close to tlie rocks to the northward of Northumberland Point, bokts might enter at any time, and we found by following this direction we entered by the smoothest channel; when once in the boat har* hour, the water is perfectly smooth, and the landing excellent. " Sailing vessels should not anchor within 2 miles of this landing place. Her Majesty's steam sloop, under my command, anchored in 5|: fathoms, at about 1^ mile distant from it. Vessels entering this bay should give Northumberland Point a wide berth ; the rollers break occasionally in 10 fathoms, and the reef extends fully 2 miles in a S.E. direction. There is only one house or building in the bay, rented by a Mb. Babbt, upon which a rod ensign was hoisted. There are several wells in the neighbourhood, but the water is brackish. Sand-hills studded with heath and brushwood are the prominent features of the surrounding country, but upon the hilly ground, near Agulhas and Northumberland Points, limestone is found." At 2 miles eastward of Struys Point is a projection of the coast named Hoop Poini, from which it is probable shoal water runs off 1^ mile. It has been asserted that reefs or blinders extend so far as 6 miles from Struys Point, and that there is a depth of 3 fathoms on their extremity, and a channel of 6 fathoms depth between. Upon these reefs the sea has been observed to break in heavy southerly gales. A safe channel exists inside them, if it be true, as stated, that a vessel has been seen to pass through it apparently unaware of danger. From Struys Point the coast trends nearly £. by N. 16^ miles, and is low with sand-hills ; it then turns to the E.S.E. 19 miles, or as far as Cape If^anta, and gradually becomes bolder as it proceeds eastward. Beefii extend from the projecting poiati of this shore, rendering a wide berth necessary when coasting, especially as it has not been svrveyed, and from the following may be suspected to have isolated dangers off it. A rock (the exktenee of which was unknown until it caused the loss of the Dutch ship Atlas) was examined by Mb. Skbad, B.N., in 1859, from which it appears that it is of very small extent, not more than half an acre, and has 3 &tlxm» water upon it, with 6 and 7 fati&oms dose to it all round at low tide; its pontion is two mUes from shore in Lat^ 34^ 37 V, and Long. 20^ 82' W, and fromite 300 KAFFIR KUYL RIVER. Struya Point bears W. J S. 7 miles, and a triple isolated peak inland N.W. ] W.- the peak on this bearing resembles a cone. ST. BMBAMTIAX BAY. — Cape Infanta, on the northern side of which is St. Sebastian Bay, is of moderate height and surmounted by sand-downti, which give it a desolate appearance ; its position is about Lat. 34" 31', and Long. 20^ 53V. From it a rocky coast runs north-easterly nearly 4 miles to Point St. Sebastian, and then turns sharply round westward, forming St. Sebastian Bay. " At the bottom of the Bay, north-west of Cape Infanta, there h a valley between the mountains, through which the Infanta River descends to the sea, and there is said to be good anchorage off the River Breede, where a ship might be sheltered from north- westerly and westerly winds ; but a considerable sea generally tumbles into the bay.** St. Sebastian Bay is only a very shallow indentation of the coast, which aflbrds shelter with winds from the land, lis all others send in a very heav}' sea, — t1io exposure is from E., round by S., to S.W. The River Breede, known to the colonists as Port Beaufort, is said to be capable of receiving vessels drawing 8 or 10 feet, and it is asserted that these can ascend it 30 or 40 miles. It lias been proposed to deepen the outlet of this stream, to permit the entrance of vessels of larger size, and as there is generally some water in it in the dry sc&son, and some perceptible current, such a proposal, if canned into effect, might render it a serviceable harbour. The depth in the bay is understood to be about 9 fathoms, and at two leagues from shore 36 and 38 fathoms. Northward of St. Sebastian Bay there is a flat table-hill, and further to the north- eastward a mountain with a hummock on it resembling a cupola. From St. Sebastian Bay the coast runs S.E. by £. about 23 miles to Capo Barraoouta, situate in about Lat. 3-1^ 27', Long. 21° 24', and is rocky all the way. Deep soundings prevail along the coast, for at two miles southward of the Cape the depth is 22 and 25 fathoms. From Cape Barracouta to Kaffir Kuyl River the distance is nearly 7 miles in an E. by N. direction. Kaffir Kuyl River is a small stream, the mouth of which is in Lat. 24° 22-3', and Long. 21° 31'. A bar, dry, or nearly so, at low tide, crosses the entrance, having: passed which the depth increases to only about 3 feet, so that nothing larger than boats can frequent it. The soundings outside the bar are 4 to 6 and 8 fathoms, and here vessels sometimes anchor while the wind is from the land. When approaching Kaffir Kuyl River it will be prudent to give the coast on each s(ide of it a good berth, because of the reefs, which probably run off ^ to i a mile from them. From Kaffir Kuyl River the coast trends about 11 miles in a S.E. by E. direction to Yzervark Point, which is boh I and rocky and has a hill, Buffers Kop, 740 feet high, at I-3' mile inland from it. It may be known by a round bare sand-hill, 200 feet high, close to the sea, at I-3- mile West of it. This hill terminates the sandy feature of the coast in the bight between Kaffir Kuyl River and Yzervark Point. Aasvogelberg, a long elevated hill, 1620 feet high, stands N. by E } E. 11^ miles from the point, and may serve to identify it. Between Yzervark Point and Cape Yaoca, a distance of 10 miles on an E. by S. bearing, the coast consists of rude jagged rocks, on which a heavy sea is constantly beating. The land immediately at the back slopes to the ^,-, *■ * 'igitizei GOURITZ RIVER TO FISH BAY. 301 and is oorered with bash and vegetation. There is a small but remarkable ^nd patch of a reddish ooloar midway between Yzervark Point and the Gouritz River, and half a mile from Bnll Point. This point is not easily distinguished, as it is only a very slight projection from the general line of the rooky shore. South, three-quarters of a mile from the red sand patch, and one-third of a mile from shore, there are patches of detached reef, which break, and show at low water. At the distance of 1^ mile from this rocky coast the soundings range from 30 fathoms oil' Yzervark Point, to 20 fathoms south of Cape Vaoca. i a small stream distant S^ miles from Yzervark Point and 1^ mile westwaid from Cape Yacca. It has a sandy beach at its western entrance, but the breakers are generally too high to make it available as a landing place for boats. The sea breaks right across its mouth, which at the outer part is only half a mile in width ; and at half a mile inside it is only 10 to 16 yards wide. CAVB VAOCA is distant 10 miles from Yzervark Point and about 24 miles from Kaffir Kuyl River, and will be recognised by being a4ow flat composed of rock and shingle, jutting out from a round hill over the eastern entrance tathe Gouritz River, and which bears N. 62° W. 1| mile from the cape. The sea breaks half a mile outaide the cape in rough weather, at which distance a depth of 9 fathoms was found by the ' surveyor, Mb. Skead. From the discoloration of the sea, and the uneasy ground-swell in the vicinity, it is more than probable that shoal rocky ground exists there. Be cautious in rounding this low cape, as the light on Cape St. Blaize, distant 15 miles E. ^ N., is not visible from it ; hence the lead will be the best guide at night or in thick weather. r.— On the north-east side of Cape Vacca is Flesh Ba}', situate between the cape and Fish Point, which bear from each other N. 64.^ E. and S. 64° W. dbtant 2| miles. The shore of the bay is sandy throughout — except at the extremes, which are rocky. In about the middle of the bay there is a halte sand-hill, 280 feet high, just over the beach. This bay affords no shelter for vessels, save as a temporaiy one in N.W. gales, and it can only be used ns a landing place in tolerabl3' fine weather. The island, and the fiicilities this bay afforded for procuring fresh water and cattle, mentioned by Yak Kbuten and the early Dutch navigators, no longer exist ; there is no island in the bay ; and very little fresh water is found near to the sea, and that is brackish. In 1862, cattle were not to be procured, the in- habitants living entirely on sheep. ULT, on the nortii-east side of Fish Point, is formed by a deep curve (of 3 miles) in the coast-line between Fish Point and the well-detiueil commencement of the rocky cliffs which extend 4 miles westward from Cape St. Blaize, and which is called Pinnacle Point. Prom Fish Point to Pinnacle Point the bearing is N. 82° E., and the distance nine miles. The whole shoi'c of Fish Bay is sandy, with small patches of rock showing out about low water mark, and the breakers are generally high throughout the bay. The land at the back, at the distance of a mile, rises 400 to 500 feet in height, and is covered mostly with bush and vegetation. The ba}' may be used by vessels seeking shelter from N.W. gales : the best anchorage will be found If mile firom the sandy shore, in 7 to 8 fathoms— Fish Point bearing S. ^P ^Y\9^jyrfc> 302 M0S8BL BAY. and the extreme of the blnfF cliffs near Capo 8t. T^laizo B. } S. It is adTisablt- Ibrvessols sjeckinj* sliellcr to put to sea as Koonas Iho »»«lc siibtini harbour-master at Mossel Bay, says : — " Mosael Bay derives its name from Jacob Mossel, who was Gbvernor-General of Netherlands India in 1757. It was formed by a bend of the coast on the eastern side of Cape St. Blaize, which is a low point projecting from a bluff in Lat 34° lO' S., and Long. 22° 18' £. A rock named Blinder or Windvogel lies about ^ of a mile from the east end of the cape, and the sea breaks heavily upon it at low water. This bay affords complete security to vessels during the winter months of May, June, July, and August, when the prevailing winds arc off the shore ; south-easterly winds are then unfrequent, moderate, and of short duration. From September to April stnmg breezes from the N.E. occasionally prevail, bringing into the bay a heavy break of sea. These, however, seldom continue thirty hours, and vessels with good ground tackle may ride >vith safety, or if desirable, beat out at the usually gi'adual commencement of the breeze, and clear the cape in one good board. Moderate S.W. winds, even at this season of the year, are very common. '' Alitoal. — The village of Aliwal stands upon rising ground on the north side of Cape St. Blaize, and consists of about 130 houses, the greater number substantially built, an episcopal chai)el, and a Dutch church ; various other buildings ai-e in course of erection. The resources of trade and produce in the interior have been opened tq Digitized by LjOOQIC MOSSEL BAY. 305 this port by the formation of a road called the Meirings Foort, through the gorge of the Zwaart Berg range of mountains, in 1858, and a thriving commerce is the result. The population of the village consists of above 600. The civil establishment is com- posed of a resident magistrate, a collector of customs, a district surgeon, and a small police force. An episcopal clergyman and a minister of the Dutch Reformed Church are resident. There is also a harbour-master and an accredited agent for Lloyd's. Several eminent mercantile liouses are established, and there are three hotels, and many provision and retail stores. Postal communication is maintained with the extremity of the colony, the mail-cart departing from the village three times a week, and arriving in Cape Town in thirty-six hours. A suppl}' of excellent water is being conducted to a new jetty for the use of shipping. No. port charges exist. The arrivals throughout the year 1858 were 100 vessels. " Cape St. Blaize may be rounded closely, taking care to avoid the Blinder Bock. A windmill on the bluff is not visible coming alongshore from the westward, owing to intervening land, but will be seen from the southward, and the bay thereby iden- tified. On opening the bay, the town of Aliwal will be seen at nearly f of a mile inside the extremity of the cape. " The proper anchorage in Mossel Bay fi-om April to September is in from 4| to 5 fathoms water on a bottom of clay with a thin covering of sand, with the village bearing S., or with Blands jetty-head S. i W., and the visible extremity of the cape S.£. by S. From September to April vessels should not anchor in less than 5^ fathoms. Ships' boats may land either at the stairs at the jetty-head, or on the beach, there being no surf. ** The heaviest gales during the year are from the W.N.W. Winter gales com- mence from the N.N.W. with heavy gusts, unsteady both in direction and force, then veering to W.N.W. or W. They blow very hard in continuous gales, with baro- meter low (29*6 inches) ; finally, shifting rather suddenly to the S.W., they subside with steady breezes and occasional showers. At this latter period a swell sometimes sets round the bay, but nothing to cause apprehension for the safety of vessels, or interruption to the landing with light boats. " It is high water on the days of full and change at Mossel Bay at 3h., and the rise of tide is 7 feet."* Captaiit Dunn, of the barque JSUzabeth, of Stockton-on-Tees, in a letter dated July 15th, 1862, thus wrote of Mossel Bay : — '* I put into the bay as a port of refuge, having lost sails, store-boats, water-casks, &c., and was astonished at the shelter it afforded from westerly gales, and the abundance of good provisions, fire- wood, and particularly good fresh water, very important in a long voyage with salt provisions. Ships can use their own boats in landing. There is now a good jetty, and another is being built, along which water will be laid on in pipes. A light- house on the cliff, to be immediately erected, will be an exceUent mark by day or night, with winds from S. by £., round westerly, to E.N.E. Mossel Bay is all a mariner can desire, and were its advantages better known, no shipmaster would contend with the heavy westerly gales that prevail so long during winter." From Mossel Bay to Knysna Biver the coast runs about S.E. by £. 50 miles, and * These in^tractions for Mossel Baj by Ha. Laws are from his description of the bay Inserted in the Xavtical Magazine, November, 1861. Some very strong reoommendations of the bay as a harbour of refuge are appended to the description, which are chiefly oontribated by shipmasters who have frequented It. ^.^^-^^^ ^^ LriOOg IC 306 KNTSNA RIVEE. inclades several rivers, but tliere are none, we believe, sufficiently deep to permit the entrance of vessels. This is said to be a bold shore, with land near the sea of moderate height, behind which is the range of Outeniquas Mountains. At 18 miles eastward of Mossel Bay is a little cove named Dutton, which is reported to be a very dangerous and impracticable spot. -The entrance to the Knysna Biver is between two bold rocky headlands, immediately within which the river expands into a large bay or lake, covered with marshes, but having among them a channel, preserved by the river, deep enough for ships of considerable tonnage. The distance between the headlands is not more than li cable's length, and here, in the shoalest part, are 18 feet water at low tide, which soon increases to 48 feet; but decreases again, almost immediately, to 30 and 25 feet-, the latter being at about half a mile from the sea ; it is at this latter spot where ships usually anchor. The anchorage is sheltered from all winds except those blowing directly into the mouth of the river. When viewed from the southward, the rocky headlands present the appearance of the portals of a large dock. Captain Walhs, R.N, remarked of this river in 1817, " Any vessel drawing under 16 feet, attending to the tide, may run for this river with safety, it being 288 yards wide at the only dangerous part. It is high water on the days of full and change of the moon at 3h. 45m. ; extraordinary tides rise 7 feet, ordinary 5 and 6 feet, and the ebb tide runs out at the rate of 3 or 3^ miles an hour on the springs. The middle of the channel is the deepest water, but it is proper to keep nearest to the western head, on account of the straggling rocks lining the opposite side, which are mostly visible, excepting the £mu Rock, nearly half channel over on the east side of the entrance, and at about a cable*s length south-west of Inner Obelisk Point, above which is the signal station ; this rock is just outside the northernmost of the straggling rocky islets before mentioned. The brig JSmu was lost on this rock before its position was known. " A pilot will come off upon making the usual signal, and a boat should be i*eady with a line to run out to the rocks in order to steady the vessel in case of it falling calm under the high land, and your being obliged to anchor in the narrow part of the entrance. There is good anchorage outside, the depths decreasing gradually towards the entrance of the river, which affords room inside for about thirty siul of ships, and is as smooth as a dock ; and, if necessary, a ship may be hove down to the steep bank, where vessels may also be built, forests of fine timber being oontigpious to the river. Nevertheless, this place ought not to be attempted, except in &vourable weather, and never in a large ship." CoicxANDEB Walkeb, R.N., surveyed the river in 1817, and described it as the best harbour in the colony. The following signals may possibly still be in user- Flag, white and blue diagonally, signifies — ApihUhoat u coming out Flag, red — Skip recommended not to attempt to eider the river. Flag, white and red horizontally — 8kip may enter. If waiting for the tide, a red pendant mil he ehoion over the flag at a proper time for entering ^.^.^.^^^ ^^ L^OOglC PLETTENBEBG BAY. 307 VltLg, yellow— Pilot'^boat cannot go out, but a pilot is ready to receive the Mp io{thi7i the bar, CoMMANDEB W. B. A. GoBDON, of H.M.S. Hermes, 1857-60, says, "The entrance of Knysna Harbour, in Lat. 34° 6' S. and Long. 23° 7' E., with a depth of 18 feet in it, may be recognised by a mountain terminating in a bluff near the sea, with Seal Cape, a low black point, extending from it to the S.E. at 10 miles E.N.E. from the harbour. When the harbour is well opened, bearing N., a village with two churches will be seen. There are also two beacons for leading marks — one standing on Fountain Point on the eastern side of the entrance, the other on the western shore of Steenbok Island, within the harbour. The pilot-signals are made with flags from a staff erected on Inner Obelisk Point. When approaching the harbour from the westward steer for the S.E. rocks, which lie S.S.E. about \ a mile from the entrance, and when the harbour is well open pro- ceed towards the Needles Point on the western side of the harbour's mouth, until the two beacons come in line, which will lead up to Fountain Point. Pass this at 8 or 10 yards off, and steer for the rocky point between Green and Monkey Points, by which a depth of not less than 3 fathoms should be maintained. When abreast of Green Point, haul in for a sandy patch close southward of Rocky Point, and anchor at about 20 yards southward of it." \ — From Knysna llivev to Seal Cape, or Cape Delgado, on the south side of Plettenberg Bay, the distance is about 10 miles, along a bold coast, the general inclination of which is E.S.E. This cape is remarkable, being a long, narrow headland, nearly separated from the main by a gap in the cliffs at about 1^ mile from its extremity ; hence when viewed from the southward at an offing of some miles it pi-esents the appearance of an island. The position of the extremity of the cape is estimated to be Lat. 34° 5' and Long. 23° 20'. The bay has an extent of about 5 miles in a north-easterly direction, but is very shallow in depth as the coast bends in westward not more than 2 miles. It is quite open to the southward and south-eastward, from which directions a very heavy swell is sent in when the wind prevails with strength ; consequently, the anchorage can be considered safe only with winds from the land. South-easterly gales seldom blow longer than 24 hours. Owing to extensive forests in the neighbourhood, Plettenberg Bay is firequently visited by small vessels in the coasting trade. Landing is easy, and it is not difficult to get to sea when dangerous gales from the south-eastward are expected. Around Plettenberg Bay the land is hilly, and inland northward of it, there is a momitain of irregular shape named Buffalo Mountain, the highest part of which is at its east end ; at about 60 miles eastward from this there is, inland, another of a sharp conical form, e^led Peak Mountain ; at 30 miles •further eastward there is a table hill termed Flat Mountain ; and between these is a round hill, called Bound Mountain. Several brackish rivers fall into Plettenberg Bay. The first of these, named Pissant, is at 3-^ miles from the extremity of Seal Cape, and has near it, on its northern bank, the government storehouses ; beyond this is Kurboom River. At 5 miles from the Kurboom Biver, following the coast, is a small peaked hill dose to the shore, off which are some rooks ; and, at 2^ miles from the latter^ is the Eromkromma Biver, — all this shore consists of a rocky cliff, igitized by L^OOglC x2 308 PLETTENBERG BAY. The soundings in Flettenberg Bay, at 3 miles from the shore, average 30 fathoms, which decrease gradaally to 4 fathoms close to the heach; the bottom consists of fine sand. It is usnal to anchor in 17 or 18 fathoms, at about f of a mile S. by E. I E. from the governor's storehouses ; or in 9 to 8 fathoms with the cape bearing S. by E. \ E., and the gap S.W. ; here the ship will be in good ground and well sheltered from all but easterly and southerly winds. Lieut. Bice, B.N., who surveyed Flettenberg Bay in 1797, says : — " The only danger in approaching the bay is the Whale Beef, a circular shoal of rocks bear- ing S.E. by E. from the cape, nearly 1 mile distant; the sea in general breaks over it very high, and between it and the cape there is a channel, in breadth about | of a cable's length, with 7 fathoms the least water. This channel should not be attempted but in case of necessity, as there is generally a great swell, and when it blows strongly, the wind is unsettled and baffling near the cape. By giving the cape point a berth of a little more than a mile, ships may pass safely to the south- ward and round the east side of the Whale, which is steep, having 18 fathoms water at about a quarter of a cable's length from it ; and when the south end of the long sandy beach is open with the high rocky point on the north side of Seal Hill, they will be northward of the shoal, and if the wind permit, may haul close into the bay. " The bay is sheltered from all winds except those at S.E. and eastward. The wind from E.S.E. to S.S.W. sends in a heavy swell, but south-easterly gales are of shoi-t duration here, as at Mossel Bay. The landing-place is on a sandy beach near Uie governor's storehouses, at the south end of which there is a small river that descends from a &rm at the distance of 1| mile; but the entrance is generally closed with a dry sandy bar. At both ends of the beach rocky points project, and at a cable's length E.S.E. from the south point are some rocks, dry at low water, which break off the sea. " Wood may be cut near the landing-place ; watering is difficult, as the casks must be rolled nearly 300 yai*ds over a heavy sand, and then rafted through the surf, which frequently runs high. Beef and poultry may be had at reasonable prices ; vegetables are scarce ; fish are plentiful near the cape and about the rocks off the landing-place. Vessels from Table and Simons Bays load timber here, for at 12 miles north-westward of the landing-place there is a forest where various sorts of timber may be had, some of large dimensions, proper for either house or ship- building. " Tide. — ^There is no regular stream of tide, but a southerly current generally setb in the morning between the Whale Bock and Seal Cape." From Flettenberg Bay the coast trends S.E. by E. 75 miles to Cape 8t Francis, and is throughout a very dangerous, inhospitable shore, with deep soundings at n short distance off. It is of moderate height near the sea, but rises rapidly inland to a range of mountains, which, meeting the warm winds from the water, gives rise to such dense fogs and mists, that it is frequently hidden from view, and consequently several vessels have been lost upon it ; it is also supposed that the cuiTent hereabout sets directly on shore. At Cape St. Francis the mountain range nearest the coast gradually declines to the sea. The depth at 16 miles soijthward from Cape St. Francis is supposed to be about 60 fathoms. Cape St. Francis is a bold point with rocks about it, and must, consequently, be Digitized by LjOOQIC ST. PEANCIS BAY-^CAPE RECIFE. 309 approached with caation ; the rocks are said to extend out about a mile, bat this is uncertain, for no part of the coast has been surveyed. In the French charts this cape is called the Cape of Mountains, although it is not high land ; but inland, due North {true) from it 20 or 26 miles, there is a remarkable rugged piece of high land, the flat and round mountains before mentioned, which may have been mistaken for it in thick weather. ST. TUAMCSB BAT is On the east side of Cape St. Francis ; but this term is generally applied to the whole sweep of coast between the cape and Cape Recife, the hay immediately eastward of Cape St. Francis being called Kromme Bay, from the river Eromme, or Crooked, which falls into it. Eromme Bay is quite open to all winds from the southward and south -eastward, and is said to be a very bad anchorage, the bottom being rocky; hence necessity alone should cause a vessel to run for it.* Winds from sea, if violent, would drive a ship badly found in ground tackle on shore, when nothing could save her from destruction ; added to which the landing is bad, the only place being at the entrance to the river, where there is usually a high surf. The water of the river, like that of most of the rivers on this coast, is brackish, but there is a spring of good quality at about a mile from the sea, whence supplies may be obtained by means of casks hauled through the surf to a boat anchored outside. It is said that at high water spring tides the depth on the bar of the river is 7 or 8 feet. From Kromme Bay the coast runs nearly East (true) 36 miles to Cape Recife, Algoa Bay, and nautically speaking, is unknown, no survey of it having yet been made. CAVB BBOSPB. — Cape Recife, immediately eastward of which is Algoa Bay, is a low sandy point of land having a small conical hill near its extremity, which is distinguishable only at a short distance ; the lighthouse on the cape is therefore an important mark to vessels approaching from the southward or eastward, as it is the chief means by which the position of this very dangerous point can be known. This building consists of a tower 80 feet high, painted in four horizontal bands, alter- nately red and white, which exhibits a light revolving every minute at 90 feet above the sea, visible 17 miles (supposing the eye 12 feet above the horizon) between the bearings from the lighthouse of N. by £., round by S. to W. ; when viewed from a short offing the light appears to be Jixed, with bright flashes every minute. The lighthouse sUnds in Lat. 34° 1' 4/0^' S., and Long. 26'' 42' 8'' E., and from it the Cockscomb Mountain, 6400 feet high, bears N.N.W. ^ W. The low shore of Cape Recife is rocky, hence a wide berth should be given to it * Captain TToBSBURGn menUons that " Eromme Bay was formerly visited by some yeseels In distress. The Piffot got water and other refreshments here in June, 178£» and the CotnOeas qf .S;ufAer/am2 remained in it (after losing her masts at sea) from July 18th to August 17 th, ISO I. While the latter vessel continued at this place there were frequently land and sea breezes, with strong winds at times from S J2. blowing into the bay, rendering her situation very dangerous, for tlic cables were much injured, and some of the anchors were broken by the rocks, although she moved from 10 fathoms on the east side to 7 fkthoms on the west side of the bay to endeavour to get better anchorage. At a little eastward of the entrance of the river, the Pigot found a spot of 7 fkthoms, aandy bottom, where she moored at a little more than a mile fh>m the shore, the eastern extremity of the land in sight bearing £. IC^X. {Jtrue)^ asd a roimd moont in one with the entraaoe of the river, which Si the best s ituatioa to moor." Digitized by LjOOQIC 310 ALGOA BAY, when running into Algoa 6ay» and a still wider berth when Bailing westward, the ooast immediately westwai*d of the cape having reefs about it and being as yet un- sunreyed. A very dangerous reef (from its situation, being an outlying patch) in the vioinity of Cape Recife is the Thunderbolt, a reef | of a mile in extent, the centre of which is ^ of a mile S.W. ^ W. from the lighthouse; this reef has close to it all round a depth of 4 to 6 fathoms, and in the narrow channel between it and the cape, soundings of 4 to 2 fathoms — outside it the water rapidly deepens to 24 and 30 fathoms, the ktter being at not more than 2 miles from the lighthouse, consequently the greatest possible precaution is necessary while in its vicinity.* UkT. — From Cape Recife the coast trends northward about 5^ miles to the town of Elizabeth, and thence north-eastward and eastward 42 miles to the Bird Islands, the whole space comprised within these limits being considered Algoa Bay — the direct bearing and distance from the lighthouse on Cape Recife to the lighthouse on the Bird Islands is E. | S. 30 miles, so that the shore of the bay bends in con* siderably from a straight line supposed to be drawn between those olgects. The general depths are 40, 36, 28, 20, and 10 fathoms, the last being found at from 1 to 1^ mile from the shore, except off Port Elizabeth, where similar soundings are ob- tained so far out as 2-J and 3 miles. The bay is of a horse-shoe form, well protected from the violence of winds, except between B. J S. and S. by E. J E., and is con- sidered the best and safest roadstead on the Cape Coast during the winter months. Biy Bank, — In the entrance to Algoa Bay in the direction of E. by S. i S. from Cape Recife, there is a bank of 6 to 10 fathoms, named Riy Bank, the shoalest part of which, 6 fathoms, is situate 8^ miles from the lighthouse at the cape on that line of bearing. It is rather more than a mile in extent, and appears to consist of an eastern and western bank, bottom rocky and foul, with 12 to 20 fathoms between and around. The sea breaks heavily after S. W. gales, especially over its north-west or shallowest part. The ooast northward of Cape Recife is fronted by a reef which extends out from i to } of a mile, but the 5 fitthom line of depth is not more than ^ a mile from the beaoh ; hence this shoal is very dangerous, and especially so as there is an outlying shallow patch, named the Dispatch Boch, so far from the land as one mile. This reef consists of numerous heads of rock rising above a bed of rocks fully 500 feet long, the least water over which is 8 feet. There are 9 and 10 fathoms close to it on its eastern, and 6 and 6 on its western side. It lies 2^- miles N.N.E. \ E. from Capo Recife lighthouse, with that building in one with a red beacon situate north-eastward of it, and two beacons,t placed a little within high-water mark at 2^ miles northward * ** No yetsel should approach the ooast for 4 miles westward of Cape Recife, nor the cape itself nearer than 2} miles* and then only in a commandiD*^ breeze or in a steamer, as the reefi extend nearly 1^ mile from the shore, and because there is a very decided and dangerous indraught towards them. *< Neither should any one be tempted, by the absence of breakers, to approach nearer the east side ci Reolft lighthouse, as It often occurs that it does not break upon a 7-foot patch a mile from the lighthouse, and yet it will, without previous warning, break in 7 Aithoms, and even in 10 fathoms. It is seldom prudent to get less than 18 fathoms water while still outside of Recife. When the height of the lighthouse subtends an angle of 23', the distance from it will be 2| mile.«, and, therefore, no greater angle should be obtained."— .Vat/fi>a2 Mngazlw, 1856. t These two beacons are each 25 Uet high, surmounted by a ball, and painted in alternate bands oi red and white. They are distant ftom each other 1200 vards on an IC. | N. and W. ^ S. Digitized by LjOOQIC ALGOA BAY AND PORT ELIZABETH. 311 of tiie lighthoiue, in a line with each other— it is oonsequently a mile from the nearest land* Port SDisabetlt. — From Beacon Point, off which is the Dispatch Bock, to the town of Elizabeth, the distance is about 2^ miles along a sandy coast covered with bushes. Port Elizabeth is the principal port of commerce on the south coast of Africa next to Cape Town. The town is not extensive, compared with European cities, but it^ is rapidly increasing in importance. Water and refreshments of all kinds can be procured at moderate prices, and leaky and dismasted vessels are some- times hove down, repaired, and refitted at their anchorage off the town. It is the practice of merchant vessels regularly trading for wool cargoes to moor on arrival, and to strike their top or top-gallant masts, and unbend sails. They are found with ground-taokle superior to ordinary merchant vessels, and ride out in safety the summer gales from the S.E. The port captain assigns the berths, and shipmasters are bound to attend to his orders. There is a jetty at the mouth of Baaken River, where a landing can always be effected except in rough weather from the south- eastward. The surf constantly beats on the beach of Port Elizabeth, and sometimes with extreme violence. At times, it is almost impossible to land. A lighthouse is situated on a hill behind the town at nearly 25 yards S. ^ E. from Donkin Monument. It shows a ^ed light at 225 feet above the level of high water, visible about 12 miles between the bearings, when viewed from sea, of N.W. and S. W. From sea it appears red between the bearings of N.W. and N.W. by W. ; white between N.W. by W. and S. W. by W. ; and again red between S.W. by W. and S.W.f There is anchorage in 6 to 8 fathoms in front of Port Elizabeth, and it may be remarked, as a general rule, that a sandy bottom and good holding ground will be found anywhere in 7 fathoms. When taking up a berth, however, room should be lell to admit of veering to 100 and even 130 fathoms, as less than this quantity should never be tried ; and, indeed, it is seldom judicious to use less than this quantity anywhere, unless the harbour is landlocked and the water much less than 7 fathoms in depth. There is a little foul ground in the south-west part of the b^' Digitized by ' i^5s^" ALGOA BAY AND PORT ELIZABETH. 317 pured, but the Bonita and the JBxhibUion were oondemned. This year we have had an nniisaal number of disabled Bhips^ most of which, I regret to say, have been oondemned as unseaworthy. "Port Elizabeth was established in 1820, at which time it could only boast of a small fort (called Fort Frederick), barracks, mess-house, and commandant's quarters, with a population of about 35 souls. The trade was at that time very limited — confined, in fact, to an occasional visit from a small coasting vessel bringing a few articles of merchandise in exchange for a little butter and hides. A wonderful change has, however, taken place since that period — indeed, since September, 1856. Port Elizabeth, at present, numbers about 1000 houses and stores, with a population of between 8000 and 9000 inhabitants. The value of imports in the year 1S57 amounted to £1,256,942 ; and the exports, consisting of wool, hides, horns, ivory, bees'- wax, sheep and goat skins, ostrich feathers, tallow, &c., amounted to £1,084,687, being a very considerable increase over 1856 ; this is exclusive of the wool, hides, and skins sent coastwise to Table Bay, and of the horses shipped to India on account of the Indian Groverament, which amount to a considerable sum* " Those who have not seen Port Elizabeth since 1854 would scarcely recognise the main street, or, in fact, the town. The magnificent stores and public buildings which appear in every direction have quite changed the appearance of the place. Port Elizabeth may also' congratulate herself on the rapid growth of trade and the immense increase of her shipping. Three or four years since it was a novel sight to see 14 or 15 vessels at anchor in the bay at one time— now there are seldom less than 20 vessels, frequently 30, and sometimes as many as 38 at anchor at the same time. " The Eastern Province of the Cape of Good Hope, of which Port Elizabeth is the seaport, contains a very much larger extent of country than the Western Province, of which Table Bay is the seaport. Nearly all the Eastern Province is well adapted lor sheep farming, and this will account for the exports being greater than those of Table Bay. The increase in wool and sheep is very great, and may be taken annually at 30 per cent. : the exports in wool alone amounted to upwards of a million sterling last year. This year, I suppose, it will not export less than 70,000 bales. It may therefore be well imagined that the port is in a position to afford considerable em- ployment to shipping." " Algoa Bay," says Captain Oweit, in 1825| " is the name applied to all the country between Capes Becife and Padrone, or Padron* The former is a low point of land, composed of rocks and a few sand-hills : it appears to have been so named from the sea breaking constantly on a few scattered rocks about \ a mile southward of it. Port Elizabeth is the best sheltered spot on the coast for 600 miles from Cape Town. The bay is open to all winds from South to East, and many vessels have been wrecked ; a circumstance which may be attributed principally to having no seamen established there in charge of the port duties. "The S.E. gales generally give a few hours' notice, in which time ships may either put to sea, or prepare to ride out the gale; but for this latter purpose, hempen cables and long scopes must be used, either with or without the chain cables."* Again, Capt.F. Mobesbt, C.B., observes, " I consider Port Elizabeth at all times * See p. 70, and also "Notes on the Fhysieal Geography sad Meteorology of the Soutii AtUntlo.** By W. H. ROSSBK. p. 167. Digitized by VjOOQ IC 318 ALGOA BAY AND POET ELIZABETH. equal to Table Bay, and for 6 months rerj far its superior. H.M.S. Menai lay off Fort Elizabeth from April 29kh until June 25th, 1820; during that period there were only two days we could not communicate with the shore ; with a S.B. wind a swell rolled in, but never any high breaking sea. Ships have from time to time rode out the heaviest S.E. gales that have been known. " Had I my choice of trusting my ship, for the year round, to Tor Bay, Palermo Bay, Table Bay, or AlgoaBay, I should without hesitation prefer the anchorage off Port Elizabeth." CoHUANDEB FisHBOUBKB, B.N., has observed that " there are many statements current about breakers having been seen from time to time in Algoa Bay during S.E. gales, yet I believe others than those inserted in the charts have no existence, and that which has been mistaken for them is no doubt the effect of mirage. I had seen the appearance alluded to extend nearly the length of the bay, but examination and patient attention showed it all to be unreal, as it vanished by degrees as we passed along. It may be occasioned by the sudden change of temperature in the air, which, altering its capacity for moisture, causes an evaporation from the sea to take pl^pe to the lower strata, and less to the upper, which are therefore of unequal densities, and refract light in different degreos, producing the alternate appearance of white or broken water, and sea-green, and regularly as the particles are set in motion, intermingling by the passage of the sea, and whose surface at the same time being smooth but in motion, reflects the rays from different points to the eye, as it rolls along, giving the rolling-over appearance of a wave crest or roller. There may be a little sea at times, the effect of rain or overfalls, where there are, as here, currents and irregular soundings, but nothing detrimental to navigation ; while, on the contrary, the palpable change from a very considerable cross sea in N.W. gales to smooth water, which immediately follows on passing into this bay, is quite remarkable, and renders it a good i-efnge in such gales, almost in any part from Recife to Bird Islands.*' Mb. H. Gt. DuNSTBBviLLE, R.N., says, in 1843, " Algoa Bay possesses a capital anchoring ground; as a proof of which, it may be observed that all vessels which have b(^en wrecked on its beach have parted their cables, their anchors having always been picked up from the identical situation where they were first let go. A vessel, in my opinion, with a rope or coir cable, would ride out in this bay a S.E. gale longer than in any other bay on the coast ; although there is a heavy swell setting into it with the S.E. wind, still there is not that short break of a sea as in other colonial bays." Yeasels calling merely through stress of weather, or for supplies, should anchor with the town bearing West, in about 7 fathoms. During a period of about 16 years, namely, since 1840, it is said that no vessel was ever known to drag her anchor^ with common caution.* Here a vessel may ride out the most violent g^los from the westward in perfect safety ; the only wind that endangers the shipping is the E.S.E^, -* " The nnmber of cases,*' says Com. Fisiibourne, ** of vessels parting their cables induced me to institute inquiries with a view to ascertain the causes. The result left no doubt upon my mind but that they generally arose fh)m the attempt to ride out gales with very insufficient quantities of cable, since there was no room to suppose that their sizes were insufficient, as is evident from a comparison of the size of those that parted with those of ships of war." Com. Fishbourne recommends riding with a longr scope of cable, say 60 fathoms of chain and 30 fathoms of eoir (additional next the hawse) in 4 fitboms water, and prop^onably more in greater depths. Digitized by L^OOg IC ALGOA BAY AND PORT ELIZABETH. 319 which rarely blows daring the winter months, from May to Augnst. The barometer always gives sufficient warning of a S.E. wind, which never comes on suddeul}', but gradually increases— giving ample time for a vessel to get under way and put to sea. The worst time in Port Elizabeth is in October and March, at the changing of the monsoon, or season when accidents occasionally happen through vessels being un- prepared. Ships loading with wool are too light to go to sea, and are obliged to ride it out, — and if not well found, frequently part their chains. It was stated in 1859 that the new breakwater at Port Elizabeth was well ad- vanced, and that in the beginning of the year shipmasters would be able to land in their own boats. Post Regulations. — 1. In the case of vessels about to discharge or receive on board any considerable quantity of cargo, a convenient berth will be pointed out by the harbour-master, as close to the landing-place as the safety of the vessel and other circumstances will admit. The vessel must then be moored with two hotoer anchors, with an open hawse to the south-east, and especial care taken not to overlay the anchors of other vessels, or in any way to give them a foul berth. But all vessels not provided with anchors and cables according to Lloyd's scale of tonnage are to be anchored to the northward of the other vessels until so provided. 2. In the case of vessels touching for water and refreshments, they may ride at single anchor, but they must then anchor well to the northward, so as to prevent danger (in case of drifting) to the vessels moored ; and it is particularly recom- mended, when riding at single anchor, to veer out 70 or 80 fathoms of chain ; the other bower cables should be ranged, and the anchor kept in perfect readiness to let go. 3. Strict attention must bo paid to keep a clear hawse (when moored), the more so when it is probable the wind may blow from the south-east ; and whether at single anchor or moored, the sheet anchor should be ready for immediate use. The situation of the vessel must be taken by landmarks and the depth of water; and should any accident occur by which she may drift from such situation, or lose her anchors, the same must be notified in writing to the harbour-master. 4. It is recommended that vessels be kept as snug as possible, especially such as may have to remain some time in the anchorage, for the periodical winds blow occasionally with much violence. Top-gaUant masts and yards should be sent on deck, but topsails, courses, &c., should be kept bent and reefed, until the vessel shall have become so much lightened as to leave her no chance of working out in case of parting, when they should be unbent and repaired, if necessary, and bent again as soon as there is sufficient cargo on board to render the vessel manageable under sail. N.B.— Masters of veaseln are especially warned of the danger of housing top- gallant masts, instead of sending them on deck ; a practice which recent disastrous wrecks have shown to be very likely to endanger vessels, by precluding the possi- bility of the topaails being hoisted to enable them to beat onti 5. If it should come to blow at night, it is recommended that vessels should hoist a light at their main-top-gallant mast-head,* although the signal may not have been made from the Port Office ; so that, in the event of their parting, or drifting from their moorings, their position may be the more accurately pointed out to the harbour- master. Digitized by L^OOglC 320 ALGOA BAY AND POfiT ELIZABETH. 6. When it becomes necessary for vessels to veer cable in a strong breeze, they most always heave in again to their original scope, immediately on ike return qf moderate weather, 7. All signals made from the Port (Mce must be answered from the shipping, and strictly obeyed ; and any vessel disregarding them will be reported to Lloyd's, as also to their owners. 8. In case of a vessel parting from her anchors, and being tmable to work oat, it is recommended to run her for the sandy beach to the northward of the town, keeping the headsails set even after striking, for the purpose of assisting in ground- ing the vessel firmly. No peraon should attempt to quit the vessel after she has taken the beach, until the life-boat arrives alongside, or a communication is established with the shore by means of Manby's apparatus, or otherwise. 9. On all occasions where it may be considered unsafe to land on the beach, a ball will be hoisted at the yard-arm of the Port Office flagstafiT, and it is recommended that ships' boats should never attempt to land there, as it is seldom they can do so with safety. SioKALS. — ^Vessels having Mabrtat*s Code of Signals can make their wishes known to their agents, in blowing weather, through the Port Office. Vessels not having the code, can make the following signals with their ensigns :— 1*^. Unsign in th^ fove^iopmast ♦'^iZ-) t ^m in want of a cable. ging, 2nd. Ensign in the main4opmast rig-U ^^ .^ ^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^^^ gtng. J 3rc?. JEnsign in the fore rigging, . . I have parted a bower cable. 4/A. Ensign in the main rigging, . . I am in want of an anchor and cable. bth, Whift wJtere best seen Send off a boat. The following signals will be made to vessels that may be stranded, from the most convenient point : — At night, — By means of transparent figures. Btf cfay.— By means of white figures on a black board. 1. You are earnestly requested to remain on board until assistance is sent ; there is no danger to life. 2. Send a line on shore by casks, and look out for a line by rocket or mortar. 3. Secure the line, bend a warp or hawser to it, for us to haul on shore, taking care to secure the warp well on board. 4 Prepare to haul on board the end of the warp, which we will send you by means of the line, and secure it well. 5. Life-boat will communicate at low water, or as soon as practicable ; have good long lines ready for her, and prepare to leave the vessel ; no bagg^ will be allowed in the life-boat» 6. Secure the warp to the lower mast-head, bowsprit end, or some other conve- nient place, and send a hauling line to us, that we may get you on shore by means of a traveller. 7. 8. 9. Digitized by Google ALGOA BAY AND PORT ELIZABETH. 821 ANSWEBS TO THE ABOVE. B§ day.'^A man will stand on the most oonspioaoas part of the vessel, and wave his hat three times over his head. By night — ^A light will be shown over the side of the vessel, where best seen. GBNBBAL SIGNALS TO BE MADE EBOM THE POBT OFFICE. Prepare for bad weather. ■Veer cable. 11. Union Jack over No. 1, IIIabbyat, white, pierced blue. 12. Union Jack over No, 2, blue, white, blue {horizontal), jy I Union Jack over ihe\ 'jz I- w \ same, with a &a^/ ^ Veer to a whole cable, mih a hght over, ) . ' V. above. Send top-gallant-masts on deck, point yards to the wind, and see all clear for working ship. Strike lower yards and top-masts. 13. Union Jack over No, 8, white and red {vertical), 14 Union Jack over No, 4, blue trian- gular, with white croes, 15. Union Jack over No, 5, red burgee. Hoist a light during the night. 16. Union Jack over No, 6, triangularYQ.eskX^ in cables to the same scope as blue, yelhto, red {horizontal), ) when first moored. 17. 18. 19. The above signals may also be made at night, by showing the numbers prefixed to them, in transparent figures. The answer will be a light at the peak. By the Customs Ordinance, No. 6, 1853, section 21, it is enacted, " That the Master of any ship arriving at any Port or Place in this colony, whether laden or in ballast, shall, within twenty-four hours after such arrival, and before bulk be broken, come to the Custom-house for the Port or Place where he arrives, and tiiere make due report in writing, of such ship, and shall make and subscribe a declaration to the truth of the same, before the Collector or other proper Officers of Customs at such port ; and such report shall contain the particulars of the arrival and voyage of such ship, stating her name, country,- and tonnage, and, if British, the port of T^istry, the name and country of the Master, the country of the Owners, the number of the crew, and how many are of the country of such ship, and whether she be laden or in ballast, and if hiden, the marks, numbers, and contents of every pack- age and parcel of goods on board, and where the same was laden, and where and to whom consigned, and where any and what goods *(if any) had been unladen during the voyage, as far as any particulars can be known to him ; and the Master shall further answer all such questions concerning the ship and cargo, and the crew, passengers, and voyage, as shall be demanded of him by such Officers of Customs ; and if any goods be unladen from any ship before such report be made, or if the Master fiul to make such report, or make an untrue report, or do not truly answer the questions demanded of him, he shall forfeit the sum of 100/. ; and if any goods be not reported, such goods shall be forfeited." y Digitized by VjOOQIC 823 ALQOA BAT. The maBter should therefore take care to bring with him to the Costom-house the certificate of registry, together with the shipping biUs, clearances, or manifests for the cargo, and also such other ship's papers as he may have concerning thenhip, cargo, and voyage; and if a passenger vessel, the official list of the passengers, &c. Suppiixa, &c.-^At Fort Elizabeth every facility is offered to vessels wanting supplies or repairs. A shore boat waits upon the ships three times a-day, at the rate of two shillings per diem. Water is led to the beach in pipes, which is sup- plied to the vessels at Ss. a tun, including boat-hire ; beef and mutton, 4d. per lb. ; vegetables abundant and cheap; ship chandlery, carpenters, caulkers, and black- smiths always to be obtained. Several vessels have been hove down here and caulked — cargoes are landed and shipped in efficient surf-boats — and should a stranger require a pilot, one will be sent off on the customary signal being made. There are no port charges of any description. A new water-company has recently been started, and a new boat, schooner-rigged* built at an expense of about 1500/., has been launched ; she is capable of carrying about 80 tons of water, so that it is hoped to be able to supply vessels with any quantity of water. It may also be mentioned, that some spirited individuals have purchased a hulk, and intend to use her for the purpose of heaving down vessels that require repairs <; they have been to some expense, with the intention of making her thoroughly efficient for the object they have in view. These and many other improvements which might be alluded to, wiU give a pretty good idea of the progress made at this port in the last few years, and will, perhaps, eventually be the means of securing for Port Elizabeth the position she is entitled to, as the only port of refuge from N.W. gales on the whole line of the Cape Coast. « In case of accident, there are life-boats, lines, rockets, and blue-lights stationed here, all under suitable regulations, so as to preserve life and property as much as possible. ) !»!■ il TfDBt— These are a cluster of low rocky islands, the largest of which is only two-fifths of a mile long from north to south, and 33 feet high. This, which bears the name of Bird Island, is covered to the depth of several feet with an inferior kind of guano. No water is found on it save what little is left in the hollows of the rocks after rain. Eggs are abundant at seasons, and a very palatable vegetable, not unlike spinach to the taste, grows on it. Fish may be had in plenty. The only building upon it is a lighthouse 45 feet high, which stands on the south side of the island; it is of wood, pyramidal in form, and painted white, with a broad black band in the middle. It exhibits two fixed lights at 51 and 61 feet above high- water mark, visible in clear weather from a distance of 10 miles. These lights are 18 feet apart in horizontal distance, and when in one bear N.E. \ E. and S.W. )W.; con- sequently, they lead over Doddington Bock, which bears from the lighthouse S.W. I W. l\ mile. The position of the lighthouse is Lat. 33° 50' 27" S. and Long. 26° If 13" E.» * In the Admiralty Sailing Directions for the south-east coast of Africa it is mentioned that ** The upper lantern of the lighthouse on Bird Island has a shade on the north or in-shore side, whicli renders the llglit invisible between N. by £. \ £. and £. by N. ^ N. tnym the lighthouse. Tliis should not be, since it is of importance that the light be seen from the anchorage as well as by vessels in-shore ; added to which, the intensity of the light to seaward would not be diminished by substituting a sheet of glass for the iron plate now there, and the light thus shown would be sufficient for what is required of it by vessels in-shore.*' « r^r^r^ir> Digitized by VjOOQ Lc ALGOA BAY. 823 At about i of a mile northward of Bird Island there are two islets named Stag and Seal, of which the latter is the westernmost. These at low water form one island, but at high tide boats can pass through the narrow channel separating them. From the west end of Seal Island, bat separated from it by a very narrow boat channel, a ledge of rocks extends nearly half a mile, and is then succeeded for about a quarter of a mile by five black rooky islets, called the Black Bocks. From the lighthouse on Bird Island the outermost of these Black Rocks bears N.W. i W. 1^ mile, and vessels may generally avoid them without dificulty, their position being well shown by heavy breakers, except in the finest weather. The edge of the reef connecting the Black Bocks with Bird Island is usually shown by breakers, and also that between the rooks and Seal Island. At nearly half-a-mile north-eastward from Seal and Stag Islands, and nearly parallel to tiiem, are three ridges of rock, the central of which, named North PcUcA, 18 above water ; the others have a depth over them of 2 to 3 fathoms. There are soundings of 6 fathoms at ^ of a mile northward of these, which rapidly increase to 8 and 10 fathoms. ^7eat Book, Boddlngton Boek« aad Bajit Seef.— At a mile south-westward from Bird Island and the reef extending from that island to the Black Bocks, and almost parallel thereto, there are three very dangerous rocks, named West Bock, Dod- dington Rock, and East Reef; the last, as its name implies, being the easternmost. The bearing of these from the lighthouse on Bird Island is as follows : — West Rock, W. ^ N. , nearly IJ mile ; Doddington Rock, S.W. | W., nearly IJ mile ; and East Reef, S.S.W. i W., 1 J mile. From West Rock the Black Rocks bear N.E. i N. about I mile, and Doddington Rock S.S.E. i E. one mile. From East Reef Dod- dington Rock bears N.W., northerly, about i a mile. As these reefs are all steep they require the utmost attention to avoid. From Doddington Rock the two lighta on Bird Island appear in one. West and Doddington Rocks are awash with the surface of the water, and East Reef probably has a depth over it of 2^ fathoms ; close round them are soundings of 10 to 12 fathoms, which deepen rapidly seaward to 20 and 30 fathoms ; hence, when passing them it is recommended to keep at least 3 miles from the lighthouse, by which a depth of 40 to 36 fathoms will be maintained. Their position is g«ie- rally indicated by breakers. East Reef has an extent of nearly } of a mile. Northward of West and Doddington Rocks and East Reef, between them and Bird Island with its surrounding reefs, the bottom is very irregular, as the sound- ings vary from 5} to 10 fathoms. During heavy weather, a tremendous sea roUa orer the whole of this space, producing a surf truly terrific, the sea breaking in 8 and 10 fathoms water all around the group to seawajrd. " The position assigned to a rook upon which it was supposed the Doddington struck is S.W. ) W. nearly 6 miles from the lighthouse. This spot and the ground in its vicinity have been carefully examined and thoroughly sounded over, but no signs of rock or rodsy groimd could be discovered, the depth of water being 40 to 46 fathoms, upon a bottom of sand, broken shells, and decayed coral. In fact, no danger has been discovered outside a radius of 1^ mile from the lighthouse. " Caution is necessary to give the Bird Islands group of dangers a wide berth in passing, for should a vessel get among them she might run into certain destruction while tiying to avoid a seeming danger, since it is difficult to distinguish between t2 324 POINT PADRONE. the sea that breaks in 10 fathoms and that which rolls over the reefs, and nothing of human build could hold together half an hour on any part of the cluster during a gale. Altogether, this is one of the most dangerous parts of the coast, especially to a stranger. " The Bird Islands group affords anchorage on the northern side, but the holding ground is not good, and the bottom is uneven. The best anchorage is with the lighthouse in line with the North Patch, in 8 to 10 fathoms water. " With 8.E. winds, the lighthouse in line with the boat passage between Stag and Seal Islands, in 10 or 11 fathoms, is a very good spot for shelter, but should the wind come strongly from the Arestward, it will be found necessary to shift berth to the east, anchoring with the Black Bocks about in line with Stag Island, or a little open on either side of it, in from 8 to 10 fathoms. From this latter position H.M.S. Geyser drove to sea in a heavy W.S.W. gale, which shows the holding-ground to be bad, as she had 75 fathoms of cable out at the time. " Vessels that load here with guano usually anchor in this last position, as it is more convenient for their boats to come off with cargo. It frequently happens that there is no landing, the rollers setting in during calm weather as wdl as in a gale. After these have subsided, care is necessary in landing, as the sea sometimes breaks heavily and unexpectedly right across the entrance to the space between the islands. The boat must be kept well to the eastward, dear of the shoal off the east end of Stag Island. The lighthouse in line with the first or western rock that shows on the white guano patch at the east end of Bird Islands, is the best line to pull in upon, as it leads between the breakers on the spit and those off the end of Bird Islands. " In the vicinity of the Bird Islands no regular tidal stream was found, but a regular rise occurs. At the anchorage northward of the group the current sets in generally eastward, and at one time, during a strong westerly gale, it ran east at the rate of 1^ knots an hour. It was, however, upon two other occasions of westerly gales, found setting to windward. It is very seldom that anything drifts on the islands, which is singular, especially as Woody Cape is covered with drift-wood and the remains of wreck."* Fotnt Fadrone.— From Woody Cape the coast trends S.E. by £. \ E. about 8 miles to Point Padrone, and is very similar in appearance to that westward of the cape. Point Padrone is difficult to recognise when viewed from the offing, as there is notiiing to distinguish it from the land in its vicinity except when seen from a berth close in with the shore. A bed of rocks, over which, at times, tlie sea breaks with great fury, projects from it nearly a mile to seaward. At 2 miles E. by S. ^ S. . from the point tliere is a low sandy point, off which, to the distance of a mile, heavy breakers have been observed. These are the only outlying dangers, the other part of the coast being approachable, even to the back of the surf, in 7 or 8 fathoms ; the soundiugs decreasing regularly towards the shore. From Point Padrone the coast trends 36 miles in an almost due East direction to Great Fish Point, immediately northward of which is Waterloo Ba}', and is almost unknown, an examination not having yet been made of it The general features of • " AfHca } Soatb and South-east Coasts of." Fabliahed by the Admiralty, 1881. Digitized by LjOOQIC PORT FRANCIS. 325 the country are not dissimilar in appearance to those of the shore westwai'd of the Bird Islands ; it has, however, heen stated that the sand-hills are higher, and are collected in great square patches. At 3 miles eastward &om Point Padrone there is a hill 990 feet high ; succeeding this, are the rivers Bushman, Kareenga, Easuga, and Kowie, the latter leading to the town of Bathurst The mouth of the Kowie Biver is in ahout Long. 26^ 61' £., and known among the coasters as Port Francis ; we possess no description of it further than the following, upon which, probably, but little dependence should be placed. PO&T TAAJrcxs.— -Port Francis is formed by the outlet of the river £owie, a barred stream, but possibly deep enough at high tide to admit small craft. The river receives its waters into a sandy basin, from which it forces its way through a narrow channel on its eastern side, not wider at low water than 20 yards.* The surf was observed to break across a bar about a quarter of a mile from the entrance, but not violently. The water appeared deep close to the shore. Some rocks, named Cook, are situate about 2 miles E.S.E. from the entrance to the river, and from the appearance of the water were judged to be extensive. In 1847 there was a large house on the starboard side of the river, having near it a flagstaff. The foUowing remarks on Kowie Biver are by Mb. Williah Smith, surveyor, 1841. We find it impossible to recognise the various objects alluded to in the existing charts of the coast. "The entrance to Kowie Biver is in about Lat. 33° 36', and Long. 26° 46'. It lies about S.S.E. and N.N.W., so that vessels may enter at a proper time of tide with the wind from W. round by S. to nearly E.N.E. Should a vessel approach from the westward, with a westerly wind, she must haul up for the western pier, which, when carried out to tlie esftremity of the rocky point, she may boldly approach to within a ship's length ; and if she enters with a flowing tide (which she ought to do), should the wind be too much ahead of her to lie up the channel, she may take in all sail. If she cannot cast a warp on the pier, she may drop her anchor, and she will swing up the river, and the moment she passes the pier-head she is in smooth water, when she may either kedge up the river, with her own anchor trailing on the bottom, or she may be dropped up the river by a warp from the western shore. Should she touch in swinging round, there is nothing to hurt her but sand. " If she comes in with a fair wind with the flood-tide, she must take care to shorten sail the moment she is between the piers, or she will be up to her berth before they will be able to stop her way. She will then require check-ropes to stop her, and must be dropped into Mary's Cove very carefully, as the tide at the entrance of the cove runs with great rapidity both ebb and flood. '* Should she come in with a north-easterly wind, she must enter with a flood-tide, and if she can only fetch into the channel, even with the western pier-head, should down all sail, and drop her anchor with a very short range of cable, so that if * " The Kowie, the so-mneh desired port of Albany, forms a little egtaary, where the tidal waters, entering by a narrow channel, spread orer a Hat of some acres in extent ; above this the river is oontinned in many beantifbl reaches, with, however, very little current, and the tide, which here rises abont 6^ feet, ascends to a distance of 8 or 10 miles. The position of the Kowie for a port is an admirable one, and for a certain class of small vessels safe accommodation miglit perhaps be aSbrded »t a very small outlay.''— xVau/tcoZ Magtuine, October, 1854. Digitized by LjOOQIC 326 PORT FRANCIS. ahe trail round with her stem to the westward, she may not trail on the hank. " Should any vessel oome in with a fair wind and ehh tide, they need not he in a hurry to take in sail, as they will requure it all to stem the ehh tide, which is very strong all the way from the entranoe to Mary's Cove. " These are general instructions for entering under sail, hut should moorings he laid down off the mouth of the river, as it is intended, and a warp he stretched from thence to the pier, or to an anchor in the channel, then, if the wind he scant or right ahead, a vessel may holdly work up to the moorings, and either lie there for a fair wind, or warp into the river at the top of high water. As far as it is known, I be- lieve, the roadstead is clear of hidden danger, both east and west of the river's mouth, at least to some distance, for a vessel to heat up to the moorings should the wind be off shore. Vessels coming from the east or west, running for the port in the night, or laying to, so as to be as near as prudent off the port in the morning, will be in some danger of the Fountain Rocks, and the only security at present for this is, I should suppose, attention to the lead and a good look-out, keeping in a certain depth of water beyond them. " It is my opinion that steam-vessels, drawing six and eight feet of water, may enter this place when completed, at almost any time of tide, and run up right along- side the wharf or quay, which is intended to be erected in Mary's Cove, at once, without having to use their anchors at all ; and, indeed, it will be seldom that any vessels will have to use their anchors in this port, if they are cleverly managed. One great advantage of this place is, that the passage from Mary's Cove to sea is one straight course, so that if a vessel have a fair wind to start with, it is fair the whole way out " I have no doubt that vessels drawing eight feet may enter at high water, spring tides, without any danger ; and I expect that vessels of from ten to perhaps twelve feet water will be able to enter, but this will be a work of time ; and as the im- portance of the port progresses, means will be made use of to increase the depth, and enlarge the capacity of the port. But at present the large quantities of sand, which are carried during the ebb tide, must necessarily leave a considerable deposit, causing the entrance to be much more shallow than it will be when the sand is all or nearly all out. " I have said nothing about going out. All that is required is a good leading wind to enable the vessel to surmount the surf, and there will be nothing to hinder any vessel going out at a proper time of tide. The Africaine eame in under every dis- advantage. Her captain had never seen the place before ; a dead calm, neap tide, and not high water either; but she went out in the most gallant style with the wind W. by S., under a good press of canvas, and in ten minutes from the time she cast off her moorings, she was out to sea clear of all danger, passing the rollers of the surf without one breaking over her.*' Prom the Zowie River eastward to Great Fish River the coast has a more verdant aspect than it has between the former and Sunday River in Algoa Bay, the sand-hills being covered with luxuriant bushes ; but there is not an inlet or curve of any sort that offers shelter for ships, and the surf breaks heavily on the shore. At about mid- way between Port Francis and Great Fish Point, some rocks dose to the shore, named Black Jioeki, ibrm an excellent land-mark, which is distinctly visible from a Digitized by LjOOQIC WATERLOO BAT. 827 distaaoe of ihree or four miles ; they are three in nomberi the centre one i« shaped like a wedge» the others are round at the top* Immediately northward of the Black Bocks is the outfall of the river Mondeo, which is probably dry, except in the zainy season. This river is said to enter the sea by three channels, which are aooeeable only at high spring tides* UkT« — Great Fish Point is estimated to be in Lat. 83^ W, Long. 2f 7' E., and northward of it, about three miles^is the entrance to Great Fish River; the coast then trends round to the north^eastwardi and fonps, with Great Fish Point, what is known by the coasters as Waterloo Bay. The binding at the river is only tolerable, and it w considered a most unfit place at which to discharge a cargo, there being almost constantly a heavy sea breaking on the beach. The bay is said to afford no shelter, and to be unsafe with any winds but those which come off the Lmd ♦ The position of Great Fish Biver may be easily known in fine weathei* by some distant undulating hills, which, on a N.N.W. bearing, appear between the ravines through which the river flows. The stream passes through an open country in the immediate vicinity of the coast, which is intersected with picturesque ravines, generally clothed with bushes. From the south-west side of the entrance a sand- bank projects within twenty yards of the north-east side, which contracts the channel i part of the ebb is thereby thrown back on the flat beach, runs to the westward, and finds an outlet close to the rocks on the western side. At this spot the water appeared deep, and the sea did not break successively for the space of ten yards, there being at times an interval of five minutes, when a boat could easily have landed i when, however, the sea did break in this space, it was with treble the violence of the constant rolling surf along the sand before the mouth of the river. The river at particular seasons swells to a considerable height, and then, from the violence of the stream, no vessel can possibly enter ; but when the causes that filled its bed have ceased, it becomes a mere brook. In 1847, H.M.S. Apollo anchored in nine fathoms ofi" the mouth of the river, in what was considered by those residing at the port to be the best position for riding. The marks were, Great Fish Point W. ^ S. ; Black Bocks under the flag** staff N.W. by W. ^ W. ; landing-place K. by W. ; and the eastern extreme of land EaBt. While running for this anchorage from Kowie Biver, a strong current setting westward and W.S.W. was encountered; the rate was probably three knots an hour. In the same year Bbab-Adhiba.l Davies, Commander-in-Chief at the Cape of Good Hope, caused two anchors of 30cwt. each, with suitable cables, to be laid down ss single anchor moorings, with the view to decrease the damage and difficulty attending the communication with the shore, owing to the heavy surf which usually prevails upon the beach, and the rocky nature of the bottom snapping the cables of vessels waiting to discharge their cargoes. From Waterloo Bay the coast trends eastward about 50 miles to East London, and includes within it several rivers, of which that named Keiskamma is the chief. AU the rivers are fronted by bars upon which a heavy surf constantly breaks, and they are so much alike in appearance that it is difficult for a stranger to distinguish one * ComCAHDER Sadclxffb, B.K., describes the bay as being no bay, but nearly a straight line of coast. He also says that the bottom is rocky, and the anchorage nflsafe. Digitized by LjOOQIC 328 EEISEAMMA BIVEB. from tiie otiier. The coast from Qreat Fiah Point to Cove Bock, in Lat. 33^ 6' and Long. 27° 62', is even and sandy, and offsrs nothing remarkable by which a ship's position may be ascertained. BivEB BuccA.— The first river eastward of the Great Pish Biver is that named Becca. This stream is not more than 35 or 40 feet wide at the entrance, and the current ontwards is at times very rapid, and the water apparently deep. When visited by Captaik Mobesby the breakers were not more than would be expected at a depth of 8 or 10 feet, and resembled those seen at the mouths of rivers known to be navigable; it may perhaps, therefore, be capable of admitting coasting ▼esseb. UWCAMIEA BXVSB. — ^The entrance to this river is about 24 miles east- ward frt)m the Great Fish Biver, and is about 1 mile wide from point to point, but widens within, and forms a basin or lake, which receives the inland waters ; this basin is full only during the rainy season. Captain Mobesby says, " It was nearly high water when I visited the Keiskamma, and the mouth was then about 70 or 80 yards across, and the straam was running South into the sea, strong and deep. Part of the stream was forced back along the shore, similar to that at Great Fish Biver, but the greater part ran dose along the low rocky shore which forms the north-east point, and there, the breakers not being constant, afforded a hope that there might be a channel at high tides for small vessels ; but the wildness of the coast, with a flat running out 1} to 2 miles to seaward, precluded every reasonable expectation that this river could ever be opened to the most enterprising trader. It probably can never be the resort of large ships, the tides being too feeble, and of too little elevation, the highest tide observed by marks on the shore being only 7 or 8 feet, and at low water the river did not exceed 40 yards in breadth. " The ravine through which it winds eoctends in a N.W. and S.E. direction, and the entrance ma}*" be known at sea, in clear weather, by a range of mountains in the interior, one being an insulated cone flattened at the top, with a high mountain a short distance eastward from it having three distinct elevations ; when these moun- tains bear N.N.W. they are in one with Eebkamma Biver. The north-east point of land, close to which the river flows into the sea, is low and rocky, projecting from a remarkably green hillock, detached from the one where the bank begins to rise ; the south-west point is a sandy hillock. Along the coast the sandy soil is covered with bushes, through which, at various places, the sand is visible." From Keiskamma Biver to Cove Bock the distance is 19 miles. This rock is joined to the shore by a narrow sandy isthmus, over which the sea breaks heavily after southerly gales; hence it is easily recognised by vessels running closely along the coast from Waterloo Bay, as it then appears like an island, but when viewed from a distance in the ofling it is not so easily distinguished ; it Is quite black and bare of vegetation, and forms a good mark for Buffalo Biver, 8 miles eastward from it Hence to East London the country bears a different aspect to that westward of Cove Bock, as it is green, and grass grows to the water's edge. When abreast of the rock the hoiises of East London and two flagstaffs can, be seen over Hood Point, a low projection of the coast 2 miles westward of Buffalo Biver. Hood Point must always have a good berth given to it — a mile is perhaps as near as it should be approached. A reef extends from it, and outside this is a dangerous Digitized by LjOOQIC BUFFALO BIVER. 329 patch upon wHch the sea generally breaks. The point and its surrounding dangers have not been examined. -The entrance to this river is in Lat. 33° Qf 4/y' and Long. 27^ 68' 3(y', that being the estimated position of the flagstaff on its south bank. It is not very wide, the distance from shore to shore probably not exceeding ^ of a mile, and the stream at low water has a breadth of less than a cable's length, and a depth of only 3 to 8 feet. xagbt* — ^A lighthouse has been erected on the reef at the south side of the entrance to the river, at 391 yards £. by S. } S. from the flagstaff previously mentioned. Its base is square, 12 feet in height, and constructed of rubble masonry ; the superstructure is of timber, built in the form of a truncated pyramid, weather-boarded, and painted in alternate red and white bands. The light, flxed, is 45 feet above the level of high water, and visible in dear weather from a distance of 11 miles. Yessels anchor outside the river in 7 to 10 fathoms of water at about } of a mile E.S.E. from the flagstaff; the marks are : — Cove Bock, just shut in by Hood Point, and the Biver open. It is recommended when landing troops to lie with a good scope of cable out The port office is in possession of Mabbtat's signals, by which any communication can be made. Should the weather be fine and the bar passable, the surf-boats will probably be at the outer buoy, from which to the ship it will be necessary to run a hawser, as the current at times sets so strongly that it is quite impossible to tow vessels against it. It would also be advisable to send a boat's crew to assist in warping the surf-boats from the outer buoy to the ship. When the bar is passable, a red flag, with a white square in its centre, is hoisted at the lower fii^taff ; when it is dangerous, it is hoisted to half mast ; and when it is impassable, it is not hoisted. The bar should never be attempted by ships' boats, however smooth it may appear. When approaching Buffalo Biver from the westward it is recommended to leave Algoa Bay at such a time that the latter half of the passage can be performed by daylight; but should the weather be fine, and Cove Bock not visible before dark, it would be better for a steamer to anchor off the coast in about 12 fathoms, with her steam up, or nearly so, in preference to lying-to for the night, as on one occa- sion H.M.S. Penelope was set 80 miles to windward against a strong S.W. gale in twenty-fonr hours. Mb. Luke, of H.M.S. Boscatoen, recommends sailing vessels to secure a latitude half way between Cape Morgan, in Lat. 32^ 43', and Buffalo Biver, because of the constant south-westerly current When H.M.S. Penelope was at Buffalo Biver she anchored on one occasion wiUi Hood Point bearing W. by S. ; the upper flagstaff W. by N. i N. ; peak east of the river N.W. ; and a sand-hill, a high peak bare at the top, N.£. i N. In this position the vessel rode out two heavy gales from the S.W. at single anchor, with 100 fathoms of cable, and steam up, which is believed to be preferable to letting go a second anchor. The Penelope always experienced a strong current setting along the coast in a westerly direetion at the rate of from 2 to 4 knots per hour. This current probably strikes against Ghreat Fish Point, which sets it off from the coast in a southerly direction. On the last visit of that vessel to Buffalo Biver, a very variable current prevailed at the anchorage ; so much so that the ship swung round her anchor half a Digitized by LjOOQIC 880 BIYEB EEI. dozen times in an hour. This, however, ib an ezeeptionkl ouei and may be attri- buted to the strength of the stream running oat of the river after heavj rains and meetmg the coast current at right angles. It is the opinion of ooasting captains that the westerly cumnt nms at the rate of 5 to 6 knots an hour in strong westerly gales, and from 2 to 3 knots in moderate weather. An easterly current is seldom known, but on occasions it does exist, and only in very fine weather. From Buffalo Biver, the coast runs easterly 27 miles to Cape Morgan, and includes several rivers, of which those named Kahoon, Geneka, Qonubie, Kwelegha, Bulngha, Kintza, Kwenugha, and Ikuko are the principal. At nearly 2^ miles from East London there is a remarkable sand-hill, sufficiently high to be seen at a considerable distance i it is easily recognised by the bushes on its summit, which have the shape of a horse-shoe. Another conspicuous sand-hill is in Lat 32° 62'. Cape Morgan is a low point, but the land behind it rises into a somewhat remarkable hill, covered with grass and bushes intermixed ; it presents a similar appearance whether viewed from the N.E. or S.W. mtvaft SBt.— At about 2 miles NJS. by E. from Cape Morgan is the Biver Kei, a stream which brings down a great quantity of water during the rainy season. It has a very narrow entrance, and a depth at low tide of lees than 10 feet ; henoe it is of but little commercial importance. Immediatdy wiUiin the sand-spit on the south side of the channel the river beeomes wider and shallower. In consequenoe of the want of depth, only vessels of the smallest size can enter^ all others being obliged to anchor outside. In 1867, the entrance to the Biver K^ was examined by Mb. Sxsad, master, B.N., and described in the following terms t " On the south bank of the river, and very near to the sea, there is an isolated hill covered with dark bush. From the foot of this hill a long, broad spit of sand stretches in a northerly direction to within about 100 yards of another dark bluff hill, situate at the north bank of the river. This narrow space is the river*moath, at its nar- rowest and deepest part From the dark bluff at the north point of entrance to the river, the shore extends in a south-east direction three^ighths of a mile, terminating in a low ledge of sunken rooks. Between this rooky shore and the breakers on the bar (which are 80 or 40 yards only to the southwud) the channel into the river is formed. " From the north extreme of the sand-pit, which partly forms the river's mouth, the breakers extend seaward in a S.E. direction nearly a mOe. These breakers are caused by a bank, formed by a deposit of sand from the river which the tide does not carry away. '* While sounding the channel, the least depth found was 7 feet at low wateri at the distance of about 30 yarda from the rocky point which prcgects southward, mid- way between the outer point and the mouth of Uie river ; but between that spot and the point 14 feet was found* " From the anchorage a remarkable sand-patoh is seen on the kae of the dark hill on the north shore of the entrance to the riven This serves as a guide to the en- trance, as the low ledge of sunken rocks above-mentioned is neariy in line with it, and it is from this point the river must be entered. If it is attempted to enter the river by the channeli a fair opportunity must be waited for, keeping a good look-out BIVER KEI, 381 en the rocky ledge, over which the sea breaks fariously ; and| when a favourable ehanoe offers, pall in, keepmg the rocky shore so close as to leave just sufficient ^m for the oars. The breakers on the bar extend to the rocks only during heavy rollers, when, of course, the channel is impracticable. " If landing is decided upon, and the bar prove impassable, it may be effected more conveniently than on any other part of the adjacent coast at a sandy spit, which is sheltered in some degree by a patch of sunken rocks southward of it These rooks lie about a cable's length off shore at nearly a mile southward of the outer entrance of the River Eei, and the sea breaks violently over them. " During flood tide the stream sets northward dose in shore, and southward during the ebb. Care must be taken, in landing on the spit, that, while waiting for a smooth, the boat be not swept too far north, for it was found on one occasion, when a whale- boat of H.M.S. Geyser was swamped in endeavouring to pass through the'surf, that the boat was not thrown on the spit by the rollers, but carried northward by the flood tide into the breakers on the bar, thence into the river, through the channel, and was not recovered until twelve hours afterwards. On the other hand, during the ebb tide, equal care is necessary that the boat be not drifted southward, where the surf is so much heavier and the beach rocky. " S. by W. i W. about half a mile from the river-mouth, and N.E. by E. ^ E. rather more than a mile from Cape Morgan, there are three low, rocky islets, the southern- most and largest of which, called the Snag, is rendered conspicuous by a singular water- worn rock, which rises 20 to 25 feet above its level surface, and has the appear- ance of the inverted roots of a monster tree* All round these islets the sea breaks heavily; but this does not shelter the main beach, which is of little consequence, as it is all rocky. " The Qeyser*^ anchorage was in 9} fathoms, with Cape Morgan W.S.W. ; Snag Bock, West ; and the sandy patch at the river's entrance, N. by W. " Without a regular surf-boat establishment to ensure the good order and security of the surf- warps and boats, there seems very little probability of this river ever being available as a landing-place, either for troops or merchandise. ** At nearly a mile from the shore, in the neighbourhood of the Eei, the current was found invariably to set to the 8.W., at the mean rate of 1^ knot an hour. At the first quarter ebb the stream from the river reached as far to the S.E. as the an- chorage, where it joined the coast current, and both ran to the S. W. together. During flood tide the influence of the stream was not sufficient to alter the general direction of the ship's head." From the River Eei, the coast continues 12 miles in a north*easterly direction to a low point, named in the charts Sandy Paint, and is throughout of an inhos- pitable appearance, and extremely difficult to land upon in consequence of the heavy surf that almost constantly prevails* Sandy Point is low, and remarkable from having npon it three or four hummocks, and about a mile inland two large trees i also from arches formed by the sand near the cliffs, with dark bushes near the centre. Ba$hee JPaint, in or near lat. 32° 16', has a ledge of rocks extending from it about i of a mile, upon which the sea breaks heavily ; a landing may be effected at this point with some difficulty, and there is altfo moderately good anchorage at a short distance from it. Henoe to the rooks called Sole in ike Wall, in lat. 32° 8', the coast maintains its north-easterly directien. At Bame Seadf 18 miles beyond Hole in the Wall, and 332 RIVER ST. JOHN, OR UMZIMVUBU. situate in about lat. 31° 48', there is, at about } of a mile from the shore, a little westward of the head, a shoal of 8 to 10 fathoms ; the headland itself is a bold rooky point, sloping gradually, and with a small rock at its extremity. Immediately under Bame Head is the small River Tata. At 5 miles northward of Bame Head is Brazen Sead, a bold rocky projection of the coast, which, viewed from the offing-, has the appearance of two densely- wooded points; thence to the river St. John, or Umzimvubu, the distance is 13 miles, and at nearly midway is a small stream named Gaziana. ST. YOHW, or mUM V IIJIV.— This is a large and rapid river which falls into the sea in Lat. 31° 36' 60" and Long. 29° 33' 20", that being the geogra- phical position of a house on the western side of the entrance. The breadth of the stream between the points of outlet is not more than a cable's length, and the bar is said to shift considerably after strong freshes from the river, and to vary greatly in depth, hence the assistance of local knowledge is necessary to carry vessels in ; the usual depth on this bar is from^ to 12 feet The entrance to the river St. John was surveyed in 1857 by Ma. F. Skead, master, R.N., assisted by Mb. M. F. Atjket, R.N. The followmg remarks arc based upon this survey : — " The appearance of the land at the mouth of the river St. John from seaward Ih so remarkable, that any one having once seen it, or even a sketch of it, cannot fail to recognise it again. A lofty table-topped mountain, 1200 feet in height, appeal's to have been cleft to its base, leaving a wedge-shaped gap in the centre, througli which the river flows to the sea. The upper part of this table-land, called St John's Gates, is bare, stratified, sandstone rock, like Table Mountain, but at 200 feet below a dense forest covers the difis to the water on the river banks. " The Ghites are If mile from the entrance to the river, which is in the bight of a westerly indentation in the coast line, lately named Gordon Bay. Cape Hermes, the southern horn of this bay, is distinguished by a round, grass-covered hill, 420 feet above the sea; and the northern horn has a similar hill over it, but neither bo large nor so high as the other. The depth of the bay, westward of a line joining these hills, is scarcely half a mile. *' At the left or eastern point of entrance to the river, there is a low grassy hill, named White's Hill, presenting to the south-west a face of dark cliff, fringed with a rocky reef. This is called Porpoise Rock. At ISO yards to the W.N.W. of the norUiem extremity of the diff lies the outer point of a sand-spit, which at present forms the western point of the entrance to the river. This is at its narrowest and deepest part. " From Cape Hermes the coast to the distance of 800 yards N. by W. is all rocky ; it here joins a sandy beach, which runs north for 1300 yards, to the spit of the river entrance. At the junction of this rocky and sandy coast there is a small nook, called Paul's Cove, where the boats of H.M.S. Sermes effected a landing when the bar of the river seemed impracticable from the heavy surf upon it. "The direction inland of the river from its mouth is N. i W., one mile of whicli was sounded. The average depth of water found was 16 feet at low tide, and the width of the river averaged 300 yards, above a cliff on the western bank, called the Needles. This cliff rises N.W. by N. 3 cables' lengths from ForpoiMRQd£.Q iBolow !igi ize y g RIVER ST. JOHN. 833 the Needles Rook to the river entrance, the water increased in depth to as much as 35 feet. "The channel into the river over the bar at the time of the visit of the Hermes, in May, 1857, was found to be S. ^ E., 430 yards irom Porpoise Rock ; its probable width being 2 cables for a distance of 100 yards, over which a depth not less than 8 feet was found at low water. On both sides of this channel there are heavy breakers, and at the time of the arrival of the JSermea the sea broke across the entrance for four or five successive days. It roust be noticed, however, that a strong gale from W.S.W. had been blowing some days previous to her arrival, which had rused the rollers far above their usual height. " The bar of this river, like all such deposits, being sulyject' to a change of position, small vessels which enter the river with merchandise are guided over it by a shilling mark upon the shore, at the back of a hut, which is built near the end of tlie spit, at the west point of the river-entrance. This hut at the time of the survey stood 160 yards from the spit-point, but the owner, Ms. White, who built it in the month of November, stated that, during heavy runs in the December following, the flood from the river cleared away the sand-spit to within 4 or 5 yards of the hut, leaving a depth of 12 feet water dose to the edge of the sand. The channel into the river at that time changed its position to the rocky shore, which extends seaward from Porpoise Bock. The same authority also stated that, as the dry season advances, the channel moves to the westward until June or July, when it gradually begins to resume its former position near the Porpoise Rook, which it reaches in the month of December. In June, whilst the bed of the channel ]& to the westward, there is less water over the bar than at other times of the year. " There is a trading station about 9 miles from the mouth of the river, to which place the vessel employed as a trader carries her inward cargo. A surf-boat and surf-warps are employed in communicating with this vessel when outside the bar. " From the shortness of the stay of the Hermes it was not possible to report posi- tively upon the capability of this river for navigation by small vessels, but a fnvoorable impression in this r^;ard has been lefl upon the minds of those officers who had an opportunity of seeing it. The accounts given by practical men who have crossed the bar at favourable times render it necessary that before any positive statement be made respecting it a regular series of observations should be carried out upon the effect produced by the outset during the rainy season, which prevails from October to April, when it is so great as to produce the changes in the direction of the channel already mentioned. A corresponding set of observations during the opposite season would enable a clear idea to be formed as to the facilities afforded by this river as a place of traffic for coasters. The mild disposition of the natives, and the presence of European traders, with whom they are upon friendly terms, are very favourable for carrying out the observations alluded to. " Should the phice ever become a trading port, two moveable beacons for leading vessels over the bar could easily be erected, and no difficulty experienced in re- cognising them, as their distance from the shoal part of the bar will scarcely ever exceed 800 or 900 yards. " During the unfavourable part of the year for vessels entering the river, it appears, eren from the accounts of those who have frequently crossed the bar, that except during very boisterous weather the river is always practicable for su Digitized by ^ 334 ALIWAL SHOAL, Tided with the neoeestcy warpe and haoye. It hue been also reported that a depth of not lees than 12 feet is to be found as £ur as the trading station, 9 miles within the river. ** From the straight oonrse of the river, which allows the ebb tides and freshets to exert their foil scouring power in passing to seaward over the bar, it is more than probable that an artificial reef run out from Needles Pomt, as far as the outer bar, would tend to remove it by carrying the sand of which it is composed into deep water, where it would be borne away by the ocean current ; the channel would then undergo no change in the different -seasons. The eastern shore of the river being rocky, no artificial work is necessary to confine the water on that side. An inexhaustible supply of durable rock for such a purpose lies close at hand. Needles Bock itself, and the immediate vicinity, contains all that is re- quired for such a work, and very little labour would be necessary for transporting the stone. ** There is plenty of good timber and abundance of limestone on the St. John. " The anchorage of the Hermes in 18 fathoms with Cape Hermes N.W. by W. ^ W. } of a mile, and Porpoise Hock N. by W. i W. 1^ mile, was found to be good, but a closer berth would probably be better. With Cape Hermes W.S.W. ^ a mile, and Porpoise Rock N. by W. ^ W. 6 cables' length in 8 fathoms, more shelter from the westward would be obtained ; but in both positions the bay is exposed from E. by N., round southerly, to W. by N. '< Neither tide nor current was experienced at the anchorage, but close in-shore, during the flood-tide of the river, which runs regularly, a strong current was found setting to the S.S.W. along the sandy shore inside the breakers, and to seaward along the rocky shore in the direction of Cape Hermes. This has, doubtless, scooped out the sand at its junction with the rock, and formed Paul's Cove. The current should not be forgotten in attempting to land with a flood-tide, for upon one occasion it was found so strong that a cutter could barely stem it, and should a boat be swamped in the surf it would be almost impossible for the crew to reach the shore, and sharks are unmerous and ravenous, both outside the surf and inside the river- mouth.". A&XWA& MIOAJEto— From the River St John the coast continues to trend north-easterly to Port Natal, and includes many rivers, of which those named Penchat, Beesan, Fongo, Slanyan, and Bloody, are the principal ; all have bars at their mouths, and are represented to be inaccessible to vessels. This coast is almost unknown, and should consequently have a wide berth given to it, especially with a wind blowug strongly from the eastward. In Lat. 30^ 16' and Long. 90P 50^' there is a dangerous reef, known by the traders to Port Natal as the Aliwal Shoal. It is a mile in extent, has upon it a depth of only 2 fathoms at low tide, and is steep, there being as much as 15 to 11 fathoms dose to it on all sides ; at 4 miles eastward firom it there is no bottom at 40 fathoms. It is 2^ miles from the nearest point of land (a green grassy point), and the depth between averages 16 to 12 fathoms, the latter being immediately off the shore. From it Cape Natal bluff bears N.E. by £. 25 miles ; the mouth of the Umcomass River North 4 miles ; and the mouth of Bloody River W. by N. 4 miles.* * The /mjndM is said to haye struck in 1860 on a reef 23 mUea firom tbe land, in Lat 80^ 19' and Long. 81° 12'. The report is considered very doabtfUl. « OOO I P PORT NATAL. 385 WATAlb consist! of a bay about 3 miles in extent, which is almost wholly dry at low tide. It is formed on its south side by a high wooded tongue of land, the summit of which is 250 feet above the sea at high water ; as this bluff is the boldest land on this part of the coast, and the shore north of it is low for several / / ' ; Digitized by Google 33G PORT NATAL. 3 to 4 knots per hour W.S.W., and have a litUe help from a current which sets N.E. (for in that part I was laid to with the Dave 36 hours, and only drifted 17 miles). Then shape your course to bring you into Lat. 29® dff, and Long. 31° dOf or 32°, when you will be north-east of Natal, and with a N.B. wind will soon be carried to it The port is easily known from the northward, as you can see the entrance better than from the southward. " If the wind is very strong from the S.W. you should only run to lat. 30°, and the same meridian as before ; but do not keep too close in-shore, as the wind dies away very suddenly, and the strong current which inclines towards the shore may endanger the ship and lives. " The Bluff Point is easily known by the back-land running in a sloping direction^ and several flat tops notched here and there. It is also very thickly wooded, while the other shore is low, and consists of a sandy shore covered with bushes at a few yards from the beach. " If the wind is from N.E. keep your ship under canvas, but with her head off shore, and anchor in 9 fathoms, with the bluff bearing S.W. ^ S. The bar oonsista of ridges. A S.W. wind causes the deepest water to be dose to the reefs, and a N.E. wind makes its deepest in mid-channel. The surf is always worst at high water, and it is seldom that you can pass it in a small boat without risk. If there is not suffi- cient water at spring tides to permit your vessel to cross the bar, moor with open hawse to the N.E. '' The winds blow strongly at times, but seldom last longer than 24 hours, and then there is not such a heavy sea as at Algoa Bay, and the ground is equally good. The cutter Circe rode out the heaviest gale ever recollected there for four days. " If compelled to discharge cai^ outside the harbour, land it on the beach imme- diately north of the bar, because in fine weather and with off-shore winds it is very smooth for about half a mile northward of the bar. " When crossing the bar with a vessel drawing from 8 to 10 feet, if with a good commanding breeze, let hands stand by the braces, as the tide is strong, and in shallow water a ship will not answer her helm quickly enough without the help of bracing about the yards as required. In coming in, the depth shoalens from 8 fathoms. It gradually shoalens to 2 fathoms on the bar, and with good way you have not time to get a second cast on it. You then gradually deepen to 7 fathoms, and when abreast of a large sand-coloured stone, haul sharp up and steer for the sandy shore, and hug it as closely as you can, — the tide will keep you from getting on it. ' " A ship will not take any hurt by lying aground inside the harbour, it being as smooth as the London Docks even during the strongest winds. She should not, how- ever, be a sharp-built vessel." Port Natal was visited in 1843 by Lieut. Noubse, B.N., and described as follows : — "The harbour, though apparently of several miles extent, is in reality confined to a narrow channel of from 14 to 20 feet depth at low water, the reniaining part being sand-banks led uncovered when the tide is out. The islands in it are princi- pally mangrove swamps. The almost invariable winds are from W. to S.S.W. and N.E. The strength of tide varies, at springs from 2^ knots up the harbour to 4^ where it is confined at the entrance. " A reef runs off from the point of the thickly- wooded promontory which forms the southern shore ; this reef forms one side of the bar, while the opposite side ia a bank Digitized by CjOOQIC PORT NATAL. 887 of sand. The bar varies both in position and depth; from October to February, daring which period the meet rain falls, it is forced farther oat and deepens, while in the d^ months, when the N.E. winds prevail, the sand accumulates. We found a depth on the bar of 17 feet at high-water spring tides. " When the bay is approached from the northward, the south point of Port Natal is most conspicuous, and by its projection a bay is formed, where a vessel may anchor with a S. W. wind in 9 fathoms, sandy bottom, the point bearing S.W. by S. 2 miles ; the northern extreme N. 52^ E. ; and the extreme of the bay S. 70° W. Variation 2SP 46' W." Port Natal was surveyed in 1854 by Libut. Dayman, R.N., and a chart of it, the result of the survey, was published by the Hydrographic Office of the Admiralty in 1856. The following remarks are based upon this examination of the bay by Libut. Datuan :— " A vessel intending to enter the port and in want of a pilot, should anchor in the road in from 9 to 9} fathoms, sandy bottom, when the flag-staff on the cape or bluff bears S.W. 1 mile. A signal being made, a pilot will be sent off from the port office, or, if the surf on the bar is too heavy, it will be communicated by signal from the flag- staff on the cape. '* The anchorage in the road is safe so long as the wind does not blow directly on the shore, which is seldom the case ; but H.M.S. Southampton drove, and was nearly wrecked here during a gale from E.S.E., and it is recommended that, when the wind 18 inclined to freshen from that quarter, with a long swell and high barometer, a ship should go to sea as soon as possible. If, through any cause, the mariner should be forced to attempt the bar without a pilot, the following may be of service : — Keep the two staves on Sandy Point in one till the marks on the cape or bluff are in line,- then haul up for the latter until the bar is crossed ; after which, being in smooth water, the vessel may be anchored near the- bluff-marks and wait for a pilot. *' A vessel drawing more than 10 or 11 feet should not attempt to enter the port without a pilot, nor at any other time than about high water. ''The bar of sand which crosses the mouth of the port is subject to change, b^ing raised by the swell of the ocean, and scoured out by the force of the ebb, which has been found sufficient to deepen the water 12 inches in one tide. " In the port, the velocity of the ebb at springs is about 3^ knots per hour, and between Sandy Point and the bar about i knots. *' In the roadstead outside the bar the stream of flood sets to the S.W., and of ebb to the N.E." For a general description of the Winds, see page 70. JL Xtlghtbonse is being erected on the bluff on the S. side of entrance to Port Natal; it will exhibit a revolving light, visible 30 miles. Coast. — From Natal to Cape St. Lucia the coast trends E.N JB. easterly about 110 miles. There are many small rivers between the two points, but very little is known respecting them. Morley Bank extends nearly the whole distance between Natal and Cape St. Lucia, and in some places fully 18 miles off shore ; the soundings vary from 20 to 60 fathoms, bottom muddy, and of a lead oobur. In Lat. 29° 31' S., at 1} miles from the coast, the soundings are 27 fathoms. On the seaward edge of the bank, and about 13 to 18 miles from the shore, fish are abundant and goodgitzed by L^OOglC 388 DELAGOA AND INHAMBANE. OoMit«p-*From Cape St Luoia to Cape Yidal the distance is 2S milesi bearing N.E. i E. ) the coast between carves inwards, and is low near the sea. From Cape Yidal to Inyack island the bind trends N.E. by N. for 130 milesi and the coast is a continnoos line of sandhills varying from 60 to 500 feet high. Off Cape Yidal, at the distance of 6 miles, there are soundings in 27 fathoms ; north and south of the cape, and at the same distance off shore, the soundings are deeper. oaabAOOA 9JiT| fwmerly called Lorenzo Marques, is a frequent resort of South Sea whalers. Its entrance extends from Cape Inyack to Cutfield hummock, a distance of 26 miles ; but along this extent it is more or less obstructed by a bar, varying in depth from 7 to 2 fathoms at low water. The general breadth of tiie bay is 16 miles, with depths varying iiom 6 to 12 fathoms; the upper part is merely a shallow lagoon, intersected by two or three deep channels. Three large rivers empty their waters into this bay — Mapoota, English Biver, and Eiing Ghorge. English BiVBB forms at its mouth a good land-locked harbour, and the bar has 14 feet at low*water springs, 25 feet at high-water springs ; when inside, there is anchorage in fathoms. These places require a special chart.* CoMiti — From Delagoa Bay to Zavora Point the coast trends eastward for the distance of 160 miles. The Lagoa shoals are a continuation of the bar of Delagoa Bay, and extend 4 or 5 miles off shore; but there are also other shoals fringing the coast here and there. Off Zavora Point there is a bank of soundings southward and westward, varying in depth from 22 to 80 fathoms ; but it is supposed that, in some places, the depths may be less. From Point Zavora to Cape Corrientes (Lat. 24^ 7^ S. Long. 36^ 30^' E.) the dis- tance is 26 miles N.N.E.-ly; the cape is bold, and has a conspicuous black islet off it, and the coast so far as known is safe to approach at the distance of a mile. From Cape Corrientes to Cape Bazaruto the trend of the coast is still N.N.E.-ly, and the distance is about 156 miles. Between these points. Cape Wilberforoe and Cape Lady Ghrey project slightly to the eastward ; the coast line is irregular, and alternately bluff and low, with here and there dangerous ouUyiug shoals of coral or sand, one of which (tlie Zambia) is nearly 4 miles off shore. AT, a few miles north of Cape Wilberforce, is fronted by reefs and shoals, on which the water breaks, and the bar is 4 miles off shore. Inside, the bay appears to be clear of danger, with good holding ground ; and the river Inham- bane is an excellent harbour for small ships.f Supplies of cattle, poultry, fruit, vegetables, coffee, sugar, &c, may be procured here. Coast. — ^Froin Cape Bazaruto to Sofola the coast trends Northerly, and then E. by N. from Sofola to Angoxa river, forming a considerable bend to the westward; in the intervening space are the mouths of the Zambesi and the river Quillimane. The coast line from the Quillimane to the Angoxa is fringed with islets and dangerous reefs and shoals, some of the latter being found 30 miles and upwards off shore, but gradually approaching it off Macalonga point, and thence northward. * See Admiralty Plan of Delagoa Bay, and of Enf^liflli Birer. t Bee Admiralty Pisa of Inhsmbane Biver. , ^ ^^^T^ Digitized by VjOOQ LC MOZAMBIQUE AND ZANZIBAR. 389 Coral knoUfl are also foand at intervals between Angoxa river and Mozambique, extending from 8 to 8 miles off shore. XOXAMaZQmB harbour is a deep inlet of the sea 5i miles wide by 6 long ; it is a safe anchorage, being protected by the island of Mozambique, and several islets, reefs, and shoals ; it cannot, however, be entered without a special chart.* It mnst be borne in mind that the current on this part of the coast runs to the S.E.-ward from 2 to 4 knots. Provisiang, and water, and coalt, may be obtained here, but they are dear. The coast in the vicinity of Mozambique is low, but to the northward of it, inland, Pao mountain, and the flat«topped Table mountain, in Lat, 14P 41' S. Long. 40° 40 E., are conspicuous objects to make. Coast. — From Mozambique to Cape Delgado the coast is in some places low, and in others moderately high, with here and there an inlet or river entrance. North of Pemba Bay the outlying dangers are numerous, consisting of coral shoals and patches, with a few islets ; some of these are from 10 to 20 miles offshore, and as the coast is generally low, it cannot be seen from outside the reefs. I (Lai lOP 41' 12" 8. Long. 40° 39' 61" E.) is low, and not easily distinguished ; it has a coral reef before it, a large portion of which dries at half tide. Coast* — From Cape Delgado to Pouna point the coast trends N. to Eeelwa harbour, and then N.N.E.' Beefs and shoals, along the coast are very numerous &om Keelwa to Pouna point. There are also several river entrances, and off one (the Lufijy) stands Monfia Island, 28 miles long from N.E. to S.W., based on coral, but lofty, fertile, and visible 15 miles. Latham Island and Bank is 23 miles from Pouna point; i^e island is 10 or 12 feet above high water, but totally destitute of vegetation; the bank extends from 1 to 2 miles off, surrounds the island, and is generally steep on its outer edge. island is 46 miles long, and 18 miles wide across its broadest part; but its average breadth is from 9 to 12 miles. Its general height is 100 feet, though some hills at its southern part may be from 300 to 400 feet high. It is very fertile, and rich in spices and fruit. The following observations on Zanzibar and Pemba are from the " African Pilot." f The reefs and shoals around and in the vicinity of both islands are too numerous to give in detul, but they are laid down on the Admiralty charts, with which it is necessary to be furnished when bound to either place.^ Zanslbar Cliaanol, although nowhere less than 16 and generally exceeding 26 miles wide, is rarely navigated by anything larger than the native dhows, except in the case of vessels proceeding to Port Zanzibar, and these keep between Zanzibar and most of the outlying reefs. * See Admiralty PIso of Hozamblqae Harbour. t "The AfHcan Pilot for the S. and E. Coasta of Aflrics,** by Captain Algernon F. R. de HoRSET, R.N., an excellently arranged work — ^partly the resnlt of the Captain's own obsenrationB and partly compiled from records in the Hydrographio Office. Every trader on the coast should hare it X See Admiralty Charts :— E. coast of Aflrica, sheet x. ; Zanzibar, 8.W. coast and h^ Coekbam, Georgei and Chakohak Ports. Digitized by * ^^ z 2 340 ZANZIBAR. The main channel is obstructed by reefs extending 10 miles westward of Zanzibar, and by others near the coast. There appears to be soundings everywhere, but sometimes exceeding 30 or 40 fathoms ; and as this channel has not been minutely surveyed, it is probable that reefs exist of which we have no knowledge. If over- taken by night in the Zanzibar channel, every endeavour should be made to obtain an anchorage. The soundings appeor to be more regular off the coast of the main- land than near Zanzibar, and anchorage may doubtless bo obtained anywhere off the former. Xislmkaa BeaO, the sonthernmoBt point of Zanzibar, is a rocky bluff cliff, well wooded, and visible at 18 miles; it may be recognised when bearing N.N.W. 12 or 15 miles by a high tope of trees appearing above the others. The shore in lined with a reef which extends from half to one mile. There appears by the chart to be soundings with the deep sea lead at 2 or 3 miles from shore, and an 8-fathom patch (Eizimkas patch) on this bank, at 2 miles from shore. The use of the deep sea lead may therefore give warning of too near an approach, but it is recommended to give this point a good berth at night, on account of the strong northerly current, which varies from one to as much as four knots. Kizimkas head is in Lat. 6^ 27}' S. Long. 39° 32' 57" E. aast Coast.— From Kizimkas Head the coast trends N.E. by E. 5 miles, then N. by E. 2 miles, and here the south-east cliff ends ; its north extreme being in Lat. 6° 22' S., Long. 39"" 36' 42' E. From the south-east cliff the coast takes a N. i W. direction to Chuaka Head, a distance of nearly 20 miles, with a sandy beach all the way, covered by a reef which extends about a mile from shore, and which dries in places at half-tide. Clmaka Bead is the northern extremity of a small peninsula, about 1^ miles wide at Chuaka head ; but at its gorge, about 3 miles south of the head, it is hardly- half a mile wide. Chuaka head is of moderate elevation, and faced with cliffs. Lat. 6° 3' 18" S. Long. 39° SO' 48" E. Cbuaka Bay, bounded on the east by Chuaka head, is 4 miles deep and nearly 3 miles wide, open to the north, and very shallow — on which account even small vessels should not enter it without much care. Coast. — ^From Chuaka bay to Ngoowy point the shore is unbroken, except by an intermission of cliff and sand beach, the whole covered by the coast reef, which (except Muemba reef) never dries. BKuemba Xalana is low, white, and sandy, with high trees on it, apparently casuarina trees. An extensive reef surrounds Muemba, except on its west side ; this reef extends full 1^ miles to the north-east of the island, inside and to the westward of which there is apparently good anchorage. The eastern part of Muemba reef is full 2^ miles from the coast of Zanzibar. There is said to be a clear ship channel between Muemba and the shore of Zanzibar, but too narrow to be taken by choice. Kgoowjn or Hog Point, in Lat. 5° 42' 48" S. Long. 39° 20' 39" E., is the northern extreme of Zanzibar ; it is a low wooded point, covered by a reef which extends about a mile from shore. This reef shows, and the point may be rounded at 1^ miles distance. H.M.S. Gorgon anchored in 12 fathoms under the lee of the reef off Ngoowy point for the night, during the southerly Monsoon. H.M.S. Selicckbiim, George, and Chakohak PortsL:' OOgLC 346 PEMBA ISLAND. out between the islands, bat his report is previous to the sketch survey of Lieutbkaht Nash. Off XAffonuMhy Volat, the north-west extreme of Pemba, there is anchorage on the western side abreast of a small sandy bay : the north side of the point must be given a wide berth to clear a reef which extends more than 2 miles, on which there is a long spit of sand, which dries at low water. Kegomachy point is in Lat. 4^ 52^ S. Long. 39° 43' 61" E. Cape Kay, the north-east extreme of Pemba, appears to be fronted by a con* tinuation of the coast reef from the east coast, and according to the chart this reef ends a mile or less to the northward of Cape Hay, forming an anchorage to the westward of the reef. This anchorage, called Port Wanyeeka, appears by the chart to have good depths in it, and to be well sheltered during the southerly Monsoon, but we have no information about it Cape Hay is in Lat 4"" 64/ 12" S. Long. 39° 62^ 67" £. Pemba XaoUe. — The north side of Pemba forms a shallow bay about 9 miles wide between Cape Hay and Kegomachy point This bay has numeroas anchorages for dhows during the southerly Monsoon, but it apppears to be full of dangerous reefs, the northernmost of which, called the Pemba Knolls, extend 6 or 6 miles from shore. Owen describes these as a complete labyrinth of coral rocks. A bank of soimdings extends 10 or 12 miles to the northward of Pemba, where anchorage may be obtained in some places to the northward of Pemba KnoUs, bat this bank must be approached with caution, as it scarcely appears to have been examined at all. ]Pemba ChaiueL— The navigable part of this channel is contracted by the Waseen reefs and North Head raeh to 26 miles at the south end, and 16 miles at the north end, but between Pemba island and these dangers it is said to be all clear with no soundings. It is not recommended to run through this channel at night, even with a command- ing breeze, as the strength of the current is very uncertain, and the wind frequently drops after midnight. But if obliged to bear up through this channel when unable to pass out to the southward of Pemba, (which frequently happens to ships leaving Zansibar with the sea breese,} take a good departure from the south end of Pemba, and keep nearer to the island shore than to the main, the former being the boldest. Captain Morxsbt, in 1822, when passing through Pemba channel, reports having got soundings in 7 fi&thoms when the north end (Eegomachy point ?) of Pemba bore S. 2(f E., and immediately before and afterwards no bottom at 80 fathoms, but it is not stated at what distance from shore. The CuBBENi? sets about N.N.W. into the Pemba channel, and afterwards appears to set right through, rather inclining to the main. In August we found it running between 2 and 3 knots, but it not unfrequently exceeds this in strength, causing a great ripple near the island shore, which gives a false appearance of breakers. ^Aie Wkaeen Seem consist of a line of sand and coral reefii parallel to the shore, and at a distance of 4 or 6 miles from it ; these have good depths inside them, but are nearly unfathomable on their seaward side. Of the NorUi Head reefs we have no information, but the chart places them 7 or 8 miles from shore at the north end of Pemba channel. ^.^.^.^^^ ^^ L^OOglC RAS MABBER, Ac. 847 of the main inside Pemba is low, but well wooded, and apparently fertile. The shore is sandy, with, in places, a small intervening cliff of coral ; but it is unsafe of approach, on account of the Waseen reefs before described. Although the coast is low, there is a range of hills in the background, and occasionally in the distance may be seen curiously isolated mountains, which present a remarkable cmtrast to the general flatness of the country. One of them, called Waseen peak, is about 2500 feet high, and can be seen distinctly from Pemba island. Except in one part, where the coast is a kind of putrid marsh, the shores are lined with villages which are always conspicuous by a lofty grove of cocoa-nut trees, in the midst of which they are built. Along the remuning part of the coast there are a few towns where trade is prin- cipally carried on by native dhows, and rarely visited by European vessels, except cruisers. South of the Equator there are Mombaza, Meliuda, Lamoo, Patta, and the Dundas or Jnba islands ; at some of these, bullocks and provisions may be pi-ocured, but water is generally scarce and brackish. This part of the coast is more or less fringed with islets, reefs, and shoals, but not extending a great way from the main. North of the Equator to lat. 2^ N., the coast is free from outlying dangers, and appears to consist of sand-downs, covered here and there with a stunted vegetation. Warsheek bank in Lat. 2° 20^ N. extends If miles from the shore, and Temate shoal in 3^ 15' N. projects 2 or 3 miles from a low point of land destitute of distinguishing marks. ViM Ctoast between Temate shoal and Assoad point is generally low, with soundings close to the shore. AS0OAB »om, or Bas Assoad, or Black point, in Lat. 4P 34/12" N., Long. 48^ Qf 39" E., is a point of low black cliffs projecting from the sand hilb over the beach. mAS AWAVS, in Lat. B"" 32^ 48'' N., Long. 48^ 30' 57" E., and 71 miles from * Assoad point, is fronted by a reef. The coast between these headlands forms a slight concavity, and has soundings of from 20 to 40 fathoms at from 6 to 9 miles from shore. The Coast from Awath point to Cape Ehyle, about 146 miles, is generally low, and has soundings of 18 to 10 fathoms at several miles from shore, and 25 to 40 fathoms at 9 miles or more. From Cape Khyle to Cape Mabber, 125 miles^ the coast is a rocky shore, from 200 to 400 feet high. Soundings may bo obtained all along this part of the coast at some distance from shore, until you come to a point about 24 miles southward of Cape Mabber, where there is an indentation which is very little known. MAM IkABBSR (or Cape Stand-off) in Lat. 9"^ 29' Nr, Long. 50^ 50' E., is fronted by a reef, and the land in its vicinity is generally low. The name of the cape indicates the ctistomary practice of the Arab coasters bound to the northward during the southerly Monsoon, who always stand well off from this point in order to round Cape Hafoon. eoMt^— From Boa Mabber to the south-east point of H&s Hafbon, the distance ii 348 ISLANDS, ROCKS, AND SHOALS. 63 miles. Soundings of from 20 to 30 fathoms appear to extend a considerable distance from shore in the bight between these capes. ' (or Cape Orfai) is a peninsula of table land about 8 miles north and south by 10 east and west, from 400 to 600 feet high, rising from the sea in steep cliffs, and joined to the main land by a narrow low sandy ridge covered with bushes ; it is bold of approach on all sides. On its eastern face there are soundings of 20 fathoms close to the shore, deepening to 50 fathoms at 5 miles distance. The eastern extreme of the Cape is in Lat 10° 27' 48" N., Long. 61^21' 61" E. From the north-east cape of Hafoon to Cape Jerdaffoon (Guardafui or E&s Asir) the distance 82 miles, is free from outlying dangers, and safe to approach by the lead, the soundings shoaling generally from 100 fathoms at 15 miles to 10 fathoms at one mile from shore ; but it is deeper than this off the headlands, and shallower iu the bays. CAVB ftHBlTABaav is a bluff headland rising from the sea in four steps to a height of 2500 feet, and is about 11 miles S. by W. i W. from Cape Jerdaffoon. Cape Shenareef is generally called by the natives Ras Jerdaffoon, which name is probably indiscriminately applied to the whole promontor}\ CAVB rmfnATWOOKf or R&s Jerdaffoon, (also called Ras Asir, and Cape Guardafui,) the easternmost point of Africa, is in Lat. 11° SO' 40* N., Long. 51° 19* 39" E. It is a precipitous rocky cape 900 feet high. Soundings deepen from 20 fathoms near the cape to 70 and 120 fathoms at 18 miles to the eastward, where the bank appears to terminate ; but to the north- ward of Jerdaffoon the bank of soundings does not extend more tlian 2 or 3 miles. There is good anchorage with southerly winds iu 6 to 14 fathoms, sandy bottom, at a mile from shore, and about 3 miles to the westward of Jerdaffoon. The natives will bring bullocks, sheep, and firewood here from the fertile valley of Wahdy Tohum, which is about 7 miles to the southward of Jerdaffoon. Excellent water may also be obtained from there, but tlie carriage is expensive. The trading places north of the Equator are, Brava, Marka, Magadoxa; and Hafoon (North and South) Bays ; but along some part of the coast the natives ai^e not to be trusted. Water is scarce and brackish until you approach Hafoon and Ras Jerdaffoon. ISLANDS AND SHOALS IN THE MOZAMBIQUE CHANNEL BUBOFA X«LAin>,* about 6 miles E.N.E. and W.S.W., by about 3 miles wide, is from 50 to 80 feet high, and its centre in Lat. 22° 22' 30'' S., Long. 'J0° 24' 9" E. (OwxK.) It is sandy, and for the most part covered with dwarf tree:* , bushes, and rushy grass, with here and there a few small c ' Digitized by VjOOyiC MOZAMBIQUE CHANNEL. 819 anchorage is unsafe ; vessels may let go their anchor on the edge of the coral reef to leeward of the island, but without room to swing in case of a shift of wind. The island is uninhabited, but there are some large goats and plenty of fine turtle to be procured. The east side presents low perpendicular cliffs, and is apparently steep to*-with no reef off it and no anchorage ; off the N.E. point, however, the reef extends half a cable, and there are 12 to 18 fathoms a cable beyond it (Mr. B. Bsecboft^ B.N.> 1825). On the north side the coral flat, which dries at low water springs, extends about a quarter to half a mile from shore; the reef terminates towards the N.W. point of the island, where there is a small extent of steep beach, with good landing in moderate weather. The coral flat is steep to, but it shows well towards low water ; at other times it must be approached with care, for there is no bottom at 30 fathoms within a cable's length. Inside the coral flat the shore forms a deep bight, with a large lagoon at the N.E. end of the island, ex^nding nearly across to the south shore; it is not more than 4 or 6 feet deep at low water, and abounds with fish (HoK. H. Rous, R.N., 1818). The west side is rocky, with a considerable surf on the beach ; it is apparently uteep, but landing may be effected in places between the rocks. The N.W. point is sandy, with low bushes ; it runs off shoal and rocky from 1 to 2 cables; a ship might anchor a little to the southward of this point in 7 to 11 fathoms, but close to there is a depth of only 2^ fathoms* The south side of the island is low, and being the weather side is unsafe ; and the reef on the S.W. side has no soundings close to it, and must not bo approached (Mb. B. Bexcboft). IIAHSAS da nrBZA (or Europa rocks), discovered by the E.I.Co.*s ship Europa in 1774^ is a dangerous reef of rocks 7 or 8 miles in diameter ; the east end being in LaL 21° 29' S., Long. 39° 4ff 39" E.; the N.W. end in Lat. 21° 26' 30" S., Long. 89^ 32' 39" E. ; and the south end in Lat. 21° 32' S. (Owen.) The greatest extent is from E.S.E. to W.N.W. Bocks of various sizes, looking like hay-ricks, extend to the N.E., while its S.W. extreme consists of a long sandbank, dry at low water; the sea breaks heavily all around it, and is very dangerous to approach. VOAiT WMOA3L was discovered by Captain Whitb,* of the American whaling barque Filot, who places it in Lat. 21° 10' S., Long. 38° 67' 30" E. ; he stotes it had not more than 3 fathoms on it, that he could see the bottom very distinctly, and at the same time observed several patches to windward which looked much shoaler : the whole extent of the shoal appeared to be from 1^ to 2 miles, and it bears N.W. by W. f W (P true) from Bassas da India, distant 35 miles. The existence of thin shoal has since been confirmed by several captains, but uncertainty respecting its precise position makes it the more dangerous when passing N.W. of the Bassas da India. TUAM de VOVA ZS&An, 2| miles long, is low, flat, and sandy, with a covering of shrubs and bushes; it should be carefully avoided at night, as the first • Nsocieal Uagasfne, 1850, p. 389. Digitized by LjOOQIC 350 BOCKS AND SHOALS, intimation of its proximity might be the noise of breakers ; its centre is in Lat. ir 3' M' 8., Long. 42"^ 47' 27" E • (Owbm). Off the east end a shosl extends 4i miles, on whioh the sea breaks heavily; and off the west end a reef with breakers is yariously estimated to extend half a mile to If miles. The island appears to be the rendezTons of aqnatio birds, whioh are also very numerous in its yicinity. According to Mb. Bbsgbott, B.N., a bank with depths of from 8 to 12 &thoms extends 3 or 4 miles on the north side of Juan de Nova, and affords very good anchorage during the S.W. Monsoon under the lee of the eastern end in 7 to 10 fathoms, dean sandy bottom, at li or 2 miles iVom shore : this bank shows well by the discoloration of the water ; it terminates abruptly from 12 fathoms in most places, and its boundary is eyerywhere coral. Juan de Nova bank is apparently quite distinct from the Great Pracel bank, with a space of about 20 miles between their margins. , near the northern part of the Pracel bank, is (its centre) in Lat. 16° 17' 30" S., Long. 43° 65' 83" E.— (Owek.) According to Oapt. D. CoWAK,t it is about a mile in extent (north and south), and 15 or 20 feet above the sea. The N.W. end of the island consists of a black mass of rock, with a reef extending about a mile from it ; on the west side a reef extends about 3^ or 4 miles, on which a heavy sea breaks, consequently this side may be considered very dangerous to passing ships. The south end and east side appear clean and bold ; approaching from the southward the soxmdings are veiy regular, shoaling from 13 fathoms at 6 miles to 10 fathoms at about 1 mile off; bottom, sand and mud. Chesterfield island may be avoided at night by keeping off the Pracel bank ; soundings of 15 to 22 fathoms have been found to extend several miles in all direc* tions, and to the westward of the island as far as 40 to 45 miles. -The Grenouille navigating the Mozambique channel from Nossibe to Menabe, January 26th, 1851, being in Lat. 15° 421 S., Long^. 44° 31' E., sounded in 4} fathoms, bottom of broken coral and 'plainly visible; the ship's course was W.S.W. by compass, and the bank extended 12 miles, east and west, on which were soundings of 4^, 6, 8, 14, and 29 fathoms.;^ This may possibly be a part of Chesterfield bank, and caution is requisite in approaching the vicinity. Caution respecting the iVMt Coast of Madaffasoar.— It is dangerous at all times to make too free with the West coast of Madagascar, especially between Lat. 22° S. and Cape Ambre, the north point of the island; from Cape St. Yinoent (or, say Lat. 22°) the coast is fringed with reefs and shoals, which, as far as 20° S., extend in places 15 to 20 miles seaward ; then come the Barren Islands, where the bank of soundings extend fully 20 to 25 miles off shore ; more to the northward sUll, on the parallel of Juan de Nova and Cape St. Andrew— shoal casts of 12 and 18 fathoms are found 45 and 75 miles respectively from the main— this is the Pracel bank. • Mr. Beecboft, ILN., in 1835 made its Long. 42° 49' £. t Mercantile Marine Mag^azine. toI. x. p. 163. t Annales Hydiog., TlL p. 6*7. Digitized by Google MOZAMBIQUE CHANNEL. 351 %VU mawx.^^— In 1787 the Dorset is said to have obtuned soundings of 12 to 18 fathoms in Lat 11° 66' S., Long. 41° 46' E. (or 1° KV E. from the main), reporting that to the southward it appeared much shoaler; in 1767 the SdgecoU had soundings in 10 to 12 fathoms in Lat. 12° 4! 8., Long. 41° 65' E. (or 1° ^al E. from Quirimbo) ; and in 1784 the Raymond sounded in Lat. 12° IS' S., Long. 41° l(y E. (or 83' £. of Cape Delgado). These are among the early reoords of a hank in this part of the Mozambique ohannel. In 1833 the BeUaneo grounded on a shoal which the master placed in Lat, 12° 23' S., Long. 41° 2(y E. ; and he describes it as being from 16 to 18 miles across, in a north and south direction. In 1867 the French barque Charles et Q^orge grounded on a bank of gravel and coral in Lot. 12^ 12' S., Long. 41° 6a E., and by laying out an anchor in 17 feet - water she was hove off. In 1859 the barque JSmpress, when in Lat. 12° 3' S., Long. 41° 35' E. at noon, observed no appearance of soundings ; ship's course true South, at about 2 knots per hour. At 1 p.u . water discoloured, sounded in 7 fathoms ; bottom of coral, plainly visible in white and dark ]>atohes, with an appearance of shoal water all round ; carried this depth about 1^ miles ; at Ih. 46m. f.u . in 16 fathoms ; at 3h. p.k. in 16} fathoms. At 6h. f.k. in 17 iathoms, strong ripplings, Lat. 12° 13' S., Long. 41° 36^ E. ; at 6h. f.u. 36 fathoms, white and red coral, with broken shells. At 7h. P.M. no bottom at 45 fathoms in Lat. 12° 17' S., Long. 41° 35' E. In 1864 the French ship Due de Malahoff, being in Lat. 12° 9' S., Long. 41° 2(y E., a bank was observed and soundings taken in 19 fathoms, the ship steering true South about 2 knots an hour ; in a short time soundings were again taken, which gave 13 fathoms, and decreasing; for two miles the soundings then continued at 10} fathoms, bottom of broken shells, and white and brown coral, the shoal extending some distance east and west ; at noon, being in Lat. 12° 16' S., Long. 41° 21' E., the depths had increased to 16 and 19 fiithoms, and shortiy afterwards to 27 and 30 fathoms ; this bank appeared to be steep-to on its north and south sides. Captain Owbk, B.N., searched for these shoals and could not find them. In 1861 H.M.S. Penguin, in Lat. 12° 16' 30^ 8., Long. 41° 32' E., struck soundings in 17} fathoms, coarse sand and broken coral ; from thence she proceeded S.S.E. 6 or 7 miles, with 17 to 19 fathoms ; then no bottom at 100 fathoms. In 1855 H.M.S. Frolic, when a little to the westward of a position marked ** doubtful" on the chart, was suddenly surrounded by a shoal of sharks, and imme- diately afterwards coral bottom was distinctly visible ; a cast of the lead gave 10 ihthoms. Bounding-to, anchored in 9 fathoms, when the ship tended to a S.W. current of 2 knots. Ahead (N.E.) and on each bow, the boats found 10 fathoms for about a quarter of a mile distance ; astern and on each quarter the depth decreased pretty regularly to 7 fathoms at about 1 mile from the ship ; one boat in a more southerly direction had casts of 6 fathoms, and two of 6} fathoms. Lat. 12° 9' 12" a, Long. 41° 23' 39" E. (or OP 86' east of St. George island, Mozambique). From this spot weighed and stood S.W., and shoaled very gradually from 9 to 7 fathoms in running 1 mile; thence the soundings increased regularly to 20 fathoms, very • Dalbtmpu ; HORSBDSOH ; Navt Mag., 1840, p. ftis ; Annalei' HydrograpUqnes. 1868, 1860. a&d 1884 1 MeroantUe Marine Mag., 1869. p. 188 ; CommasdeaM. 8. Kolloth, B.K.; CaFTAIN W. I. S. FULLEH, B.K. ; Ksttt. Mag., 1867, p. 148. Digitized by L^OOQlC 352 SHOALS— MOZAMBIQtJE CHANNEL. shortly afler which there was no bottom in 100 fathoms, when the patent log showed 1*8 mile from the place of anchorage. In 1861 H.M.S. Cyclops, when steering S. by W. i W., struck soundings in 17 fathoms, then 9 fathoms, and immediately anchored in 10 fathoms, hard sand, Lat. 12° 3' 28' S., Long. 41° 25' 31" E. The water was very clear, and the bank . appeared to extend far in all directions when seen from aloft ; tlience the Cyclops weighed, and proceeded S.W. i W., obtaining soundings as follow — ^9, 8, 10, 13, 14, and 25 fathoms ; having run 6*2 miles from her anchorage, no bottom was got at 100 fathoms. These observations tend to prove that the dangerous part of the Lazarus bank, as far as at present known, lies between Lat. 12° 2' and 12^ 20^ S., and between Long. 41° 20^ and 41° 40^ E. ; over this area the depth varies from 7 to 20 fathoms ; but there is one dangerous patch of 3 fathoms or under, probably in Lat. 12° 10^ S., Long. 41° 23' E. — (a mile or two more or less in both lat. and long.) The lead will most probably give ample warning of thb dangerous patch during the day, if a good look-out is kept ; but, during the night, large ships would do well in avoiding the locality. Should, however, their reckoning mislead, then as soon as they strike soundings, it would be advisable to round-to and anchor until daylight. On most charts Lazarus bank is delineated as extending from Lat. 11° 48' S. to Lat. 12° 16' S., and between Long. 41° 29' E. and 42° 22' E.— thus omitting the most dangerous part, which is more to the westward by 7 or 8 miles ; as regards the more easterly portion, H.M. ships Lyra, Wasp, and Gorgon have crossed and re- crossed it, sounding frequently with no bottom at 40 and 50 fathoms ; in 1862 H.M.S. Gorgon, in particular, ran from Lat. 11° 54' S., Long. 41° 421 E., to Lat. 12° 16' S., Long. 42° T B., trying for soundings without obtaining any at 60 or 80 fathoms. XAVMrZTX BSBAKBBS. — The ship Kaunitz, in 1791, is said to have seen breakers at a distance of 9 miles, the land to the westward being visible at the same time ; these breakers were said to he in Lat. 11° 3' S., Long. 42° 25' £. If for Lat. 11° 3' S. we read 12° 3' S., we have the position (approximately) of Lazarus bank ; but nothing is known of Kaunitz shoal in the position assigned above, although H.M. ciniisers on the east coast of Africa have frequently traversed its vicinity. BXLOAJL9 to the westward of the S.W. point of Comoro, is in Lat. about 11° 49' S., Long, about 43° 16' E., with the (visible) extremes of Comoro N. 31° E. and S. 76° E. ; a town on the mountain side N. 64° E. ; and Mant^eza hill (sometimes called Hound hill, or the ploughed mountain) East, distant about lO miles. Of tlie existence of this shoal there can be no doubt ; tlie Charles et George, a regular trader in the Mozambique Channel, has frequently reported it ; it has been seen by H.M.S. Brilliant, and passed over by the Sparroiohatok ; it was also re- ported by H.M.S. Nerhudda, which ship observed heavy breakers in about the above assigned spot, but night coming on, with a heavy sea, they had no opportunity of further examination. Mr. Sunley, H.M. consul for the Comoro ishmds, also reports that he has passed over this shoal. The shoalest spot is reported to be from 4 to 6 fathoms, but there may be leas water. Of its extent, nothing is known with any accuracy 5 accounts vary in stating Digitized by VjOOQli COMORO ISLANDS. 353 it io be from 2 to 12 miles long. Captain Polkikohobnb, who passed over it in H.M'S. Sparrawhawk in 1826, says the western extreme bore N.W. by W. or W.N.W. from the S. W. end of Comoro. The Sparrowhawls appears to have been steering S.E., and obtained from 6 to 4^ fathoms ; the water was of a light green colour, and showed at 4 or 5 miles' distance from the foreyard. Thus there can be no doubt Yailheu shoal is dangerous in places for very large ships; and report says vessels have been nearly lost here when returning from Bombay to England. Comoro native accounts, however, describe it as not dangerous for vessels of ordinary size. Large ships passing thi-ough this part of the Mozambique channel at night should, on approaching the parallel of the south end of Comoro, keep to the westward of the 43rd meridian, in order to avoid the vicinity of Yailheu shoal. Manoel Pimbntal records a shoal, but no breakers, 9 miles from the S.W. point of Comoro ; this shoal is 15 to 18 miles N.W. and S.E. ; the south part at halF>flood has 6 fathoms on it, and at the N.W. point 4 fathoms. Nine miles off Comoro island would place this shoal half way towards Yailheu shoal—they are probably one and the same. COMORO ISLANDS.* The COMORO ZS&Ams, four in number, lie at the north end of the Mozam- bique channel, nearly midway between the north extreme of Madagascar and the African coast; they are all high, and of volcanic origin ; and with the exception of Mayotta, are generally safe of approach — with clear passages between them. Tbe reefs and shoals between these islands and the coast— on each side— are dangerous, and require caution when in their vicinity, but they are sufficiently apart from one another to render the navigation of this part of the Mozambique channel perfectly safe, with ordinary precaution and a good look-out. COXOftO (also called Angazecha), is the northernmost and least known, although the largest and highest island of the group; it is about 35 miles north and south by about 12 miles east and west; but, possessing no harbour, nor a single good anchor* age, it is rarely visited. CoHOBO MouKTAiN is situated at the south part of the island, its highest part being about 8 miles from the southern extreme. The mean of our observations gave its height to be 8526 feet. The summit of this mountain is smooth and dome- shaped, rising so evenly from the sea on its south side as to give a deceptive idea of its height when close to ; its stupendous height will show better at the distance of 25 or 50 miles, and in clear weather it may be seen at over 100 miles distance. This mountain is the more remarkable from the absence of any land of equal height on the eastern coast of Africa, and also on account of its being the highest mountain in the world cis compared with the size of the island, although we believe to this day unnoticed by geographers in their comparative tables of mountains. * The remarks on the Comoro Islands and their Ticlnity are derived from the observations of Caft. Oven, B.K. ; Capt F. Moresby, R.N'.; €ohmandeb M. S. Nolloth, K.N.; Mb. J. BicuABDS, B.N. ; the French Sorve/s ; Vicomte F. de Lanole, of the French Imperial Navy, ** Campagne de la Cordeiitre;** and especially Caft. 6. F. It. de Hobsey, B.N. ; Hobsbubgh ; the Mercantile Marine Mag.; tbe Nautical Mag.; the Jour, of tbe Roy. Geog. Soc.; and the Annales Hydrographiqnes. . ^^^.^ ^ ^ Digitized by VjOOQIc 864 COMORO ISLAND. Comoro mountain, like tlie whole island, is volcanic, and eruptions are very fre- quent. In 1858 the lava flowed out of the side of the mountain into the sea on the west ooast, hetween the towns of Maroni and Itzanda, which, heing only 8 miles apart, thus narrowly escaped destruction. The natives of Comoro are Mahometans, of Arah descent, with an intermixture of Madagascar hlood ; altogether a fine, tall race, and hospitable. The Sontb Coeat of Comoro is rocky and steep-to. The S.E. point, in Lai. IP 62f 23" S., Long. 43° 36' 2V E.,.has a rugged hill at its extreme,^the termina- tion of an irregular ridge descending from the smooth-topped mountain. The S.W. point is low, but rises gradually and without a break to the top of Comoro mountain. Bound hill, two or three miles to the northward of the point, appears as an island from the distance, showing over the low extreme of the S.W. point. There is a village close to the sea a little to the eastward of the S.W. point. TIM Beat Ooeat is said to be bold-to, with neither soundings nor anchorage oflf it. A small island with a reef outside it, but apparently close to the main island, is stated to be about 5 miles southward of the N.E. point. Tlie Vortli Coaat is rocky, high, and apparently safe; but the N.W. point must be avoided, for it is surrounded by reefs apparently extending 3 or 4 miles (or more) from shore ; here is the town of Mouohamouli, 1^ miles westward of which, in 30 or 36 fathoms water, at two cables from the breakers, is an anchorage visited by the French man-of-war Prudente, in 1843 ; but it cannot be recommended. It is opposite a small sandy beach. On tbe mreat Coaat, which is said to be bold, of approach, there are two an- chorages, Maroni and Itzanda, and several villages. Approaching Maroni from the S.£.-ward, Round hill (or Mantzeza) will be seen over the low extreme of the S.W. point of Comoro ; it is about 3 miles N.N.W. of that point, is about 700 feet high, and juts out into the sea, presenting a bluff face to seaward ; a reef extends about a mile from it. Seen from the westward, the appearance of this hill is com- • pletely altered, being under the new aspect an oblong mountain, with small ravines from top to base. The town of Mantzeza is on the S.E. side of the hill. Iconi hill, about 3 or 4 miles northward of Mantzeza, also juts seaward ; seen from the southward it is saddle-shaped and steep, but on nearing it a low point of small extent will bo observed running out from its base, and just to the southward of and under the hill will be seen the town of Iconi. From the westward this hill shows as two peaks with a deep hollow between them ; there arc the ruins of a white stone building on the apex of the northern peak. About a mile to the northward of Iconi hill a low point projects ; above this point some way up the side of the mountain there is a large walled town. About 2 milea to the northward of Icon! hill, another low point will be observed with two or three large trees on it; round this pomt is the bay of Maroni. Between Maroni and Itzanda, a distance of about 3 miles, the ooast is rocky and steep-to : about a mile to the northward of Maroni a low black point projects, now forming the northern extreme of Maroni bay; this point was produced by an eruption of lava in 1868. Maroni Bay is a slight indentation of the shore, with a small cove and a rooky islet in it, in Lat. 11° 40' 44" S. (Lawgie). This cove is shallow, but affords good landing at its head. The town, at the head of the cove, is large, and the Sultan of Maroni is the £.) birds were seen, but nothing else to give warrant of any danger. A Bank was reported in 1860 by the slave brig Formosa Ettrella, and stated to be about two degrees eastward of Zanzibar ; the vessel anchored on it. Tliis is the only notice of a bank in that vicinity, and the report is not credited. \ de Fatram.— A shoal was reported by the Pitl in 1758, in Lat. about 4*^ Wf S., Long, about \4P 4lOf £. The journal states that breakers were seen from the mast-head distant Jive leagues. No other report confirms the existence of a shoal or bank anywhere near the position given. i de Ambre. — In 1760 a bank was reported by H.M. ships Norfolk and Tantket, bound from Johanna towards India ; its position is stated to be in Lat. about OP 9' S., Long, about 50^ 16' £. ; extending about 9 miles, bottom sandy, and visible in several places. The Huddart, in 1803, reported an appearance of broken water in Lat. OP 5' S., Long. 48°60'£., and supposed it to be Ambre shoal. Lastly, the Cambrian, bound to Aden, reports as follows : Crossing the Equator, July 3rd, 1867, in 49°46'£., startled by the appearance of discoloured water; sounded in 16 fathoms ; hauled up to eastward, and sounded again— no bottom half an hour after- wards with 76 fathoms, water not so highly coloured.* The last observation would seem to indicate the possible existence of the Ambre shoal, though it has for some time past been erored from the charts of the Indian Ocean. SOKOTRA ISLAND AND ITS VICINITY, SOXIKTBA XB&AKS is 71 miles long, east and west, and 22 miles wide at its broadest pai-t from E&s Bashuri to E&s Eattani; in shape it is very irregular, narrowing to a sharp point at its eastern extreme ; the southern coast is rudely convex, presenting a bulwark against the swell of the ocean, whose waters are per- petually rolled against it; but the northern and western shores are indented and broken into a succession of small open bays. " The whole island may be described as a pile of mountains, of nearly equal height, almost surrounded by a low plun, extending from their base to the margin of the sea. This is of irregular width, varying from two to four miles, excepting near Rds Felink and lUs Shaab, where the mountains rise up perpendicularly from the sea, and it disappears altogether. Throughout the whole extent of this belt, with the exception of those parts which are watered by the mountain streams in their progress towards the sea, and some spaces hereafter specified, the soil is hard, and does not in its present state appear to any considerable deg^ree susceptible of cultivation. The southern side, though con- siderably less fertile than the northern, is yet, in the vicinity of R^ Mom, reasonably productive ; but to the westward of it is as arid and barren as the worst parts of Arabia. There the force of the south-west wind has blown the sand op * Mercantile ICarlne Hag., U69, voL vi. p. i.^ , , i r\r\n I o r "^ Digitized by VjUOyic 372 SOKOTRA AND ITS VICINITY. from the sea-shore, where it is so fine as to be nearly impalpable, and formed it into a continuous range of sand hills, which extend parallel to the beach for several miles, whence it spreads over the plain, and is even in some places deposited in great quantities at a distance of 3 miles from the sea, at the base of the mountains which there form a barrier, and alone prevent it from overwhelming the natural Boil of the whole island. On the northern side, the plain is stony and covered with a dwarfish bush (the metayne) about six feet in height, the foliage of which appears to be retained during the north-east season of the year, and gives to the space where it grows the appearance from a distance of being clothed with verdure. Such is the appearance and nature of the sea-coast, but the high land exhibits a great variety of soil and surface. As a general remark, it may, however, be observed, that nothing in the North-east Monsoon presents a stronger contrast than the eastern and western sides of the island. While the former is destitute of verdure, has scanty pasturage, and, with the exception of some places near the sea, has no other water than what is retained in natural reservoirs, the latter is supplied witli frequent streams; its valleys and plains afibrd luxuriant grass, herds of cattle are numerous, and the scenery in many places is equal to that of our own country. " Sok6tra is not distinguished by any remarkable fertility of soil, yet it is so varied as to be difficult to be able to speak of it in general terms. The summit and sides of the greater part of the mountains composing the eastern part of the island present the smooth surface of the rock entirely denuded of soil, though in some places the rain has worn hollows and other irregularities, in which is lodged a shallow deposit of light earth, and a few shrubs spring forth. On the summits of the hiUs on the northern side of the island, and against the sides and elevated regions in the vicinity of the granite peaks, a dark rich vegetable mould is found, which nourishes a thick and luxurious vegetation. In the plain about TamaHda, and some portions near Cadhoop, are several beautiful valleys. The soil is a reddish- coloured earth, which nourishes, at certain seasons, an abundant supply of grass, and appears well adapted for the cultivation of grain, fruit, and vegetables. In the valleys through which the streams flow, not only are there extensive groves of date- trees, but the existence of a broad border of beautiful turf, occasional enclosures of dukkuw, and, though but rarely, a plantation of indigo or cotton, indicate no want of fertility in the soil. The natives themselves, indeed, are aware of this, and speak of their own stupidity and indolence as the work of fate. ' " Climate. — ^Though Sok6tra is situate only a short distance from the continents of Africa and Arabia, and is, in fact, in the same parallel with their most pai'ched and burning plains, yet, from both Monsoons blowing over a vast expanse of water, it enjoys, at least as compared with them, a remarkably temperate and cool climate. A register of the thermometer, kept in the N.E. Monsoon from the 12th of January to the 13th of March, exhibits during that time the mean daily temperature of 70^^, while several streams, at but a short distance from the level of the sea, indicated the mean annual temperature at 74fJ° (Fahr.) On the hilla it is still cooler, and the great elevation of the granite mountains would enable settlers to choose their own climate. Until a few days before we quitted the island, the Monsoon blew very fresh, and at times tlie wind swept through the valleys with a violence which I have rarely seen equalled. The sky was usually overcast ; and while in the countries of Asia and Africa, under the same parallel, some time was yet to elapse before the tennination of the dry season, Sok6tra enjpyed frequent and coniQUs nuns, due to Digitized by VjOOQK SOKOTRA AND ITS VICINITY. 373 her granite moantains, the lofly peaks of which obstruct the clouds, causing them to deposit their aqueous particles to feed the mountain streams, or precipitate themselves in plentiful showers over the surrounding country. *' On our second visit, in the S.W. Monsoon, daring the time the vessel remained in Tamarida Bay, we found the average temperature much higher than the above ; but it should not at the same time be forgotten that we were then under the high land on the lee side of the island, and the wind became heated in its passage across it On the windward side of the island, the summits of the mountains, and the open part of the coast between R4s Moree and Tamarida Bay, the weather was at this time also delightfully cool. " In place of the dark cloudy weather with which the season of the S.W. Monsoon commences in India, it was here for the most part clear and cloudless, the stars at night shining forth with uncommon brilliancy. During this period also, when it waa blowing nearly a hurricane, and when the gusts swept down from the moun- tains with a force almost irresistible, throwing up the water in sheets, and keeping our decks and masts to the height of the tops continually wet with the spray, we had, with the exception of a dense white canopy of clouds formed like the table- cloth over the Table Mountain at the Cape, before the setting in of the breeze with its utmost degree of violence, the same clear and cloudless weather. The wind when it blew strongest felt dry ; and indeed, such was its siccity, that water dropped on the deck dried up instantaneously. As is usual with winds of this nature, we felt hot or cold, according to the previous state of our own skins. If we were per- spiring, we felt cool ; but otherwise, we felt hot, feverish, and uncomfortable. And notwithstanding the heat of the wind at Tamarida at this season, the natives do not ascribe to it any ill effects ; it would merely appear from their testimony that intermittent fevers are prevalent at the change of either Monsoon, and few of tlie Arabtt firom the coast, who reside here any time, escape them.''* Productions. — The chief productions of the island for commercial purposes are aloes ; the gum called dragon blood ; and several varieties of hard wood, applicable fol* sheaves of blocks, splicing-fids, &c. Supplies. — Oxen are numerous near Tamarida and on the mountains in its vicinity ; the cows are kept mostly for their milk, from which the ghee, so much esteemed in Arabia and Africa, is made. Vast flocks of sheep and goats are found in every part of the island — the latter are so numerous that the owners keep no account of them. Sokotra has no ports in which a vessel can ride in safety, protected from all winds ; and it is only on opposite sides of the island that good shelter is found from the prevailing Monsoon. Daring the N.E. Monsoon the bays and anchorages sheltered from East andE.N.E. winds are Ghubbet Kurmeh, Ghabbet Gollonsir, Ghubbet Shaab, Bander N6, Bander K'dresseh, and Bander Fikeh; also Tamarida, with the wind from the East, if anchy Lieut. J. B. W£LI«T£j>, LN., in Jour^iB^ flOO., r^ t. p. 120 et Wq. igitizeJby - 374 SOKOTRA AND ITS VICINITY. Dunng the S.W. Monsoon, there is shelter in all the bays between lUaKadarmeh and the west end of the island, — ^these are Kumieh, Kadhup, Tamarida, Delis hi, Garrieh, and Fikeh ; bnt they are subject to very strong ^sts of wind that come from the mountains and through the valleys. Natives say that, at this season, the only really good anchorage is at Bander Delishi, where a vessel can ride out the Monsoon in a perfectly smooth sea and free from the effects of wind. Good ground tackle is necessary, for the soundings deepen rapidly on the north side of the island. Tanuuiaa* «r Madibv* on the north side of the island, and 30 miles from the east end, is in Lat. 12° 39' N., Long. 53"" 59^ 20*' E. It may be known by the high craggy peaks of the mountain range, 3000 to 4000 feet high, which overhang the plain on which the village stands; or, should the peaks be clouded, by a high sand-hill (Jebel Omharf) at the N.£. extreme of the bay, and a low point (Ras Haulaf) partly sandy, partly rocky. The anchorage is indifferent, but there is no danger in the bay ; the soundingx gradually increase from the shore to 10 fathoms at the distance of a mile, and 20 fathoms at 2} miles. The landing place is a quarter of a mile from the village, close to a small stream near a grove of date- palms. StrppLlBS.— €k>od water, bullocks, goats, sheep and fish may be procured here at reasonable prices ; also firewood. The natives are poor but hospitable, and ready to barter refreshments for rice. Grapes, water-melons, pumpkins, oranges, and plantains may be obtained in March and April, and dates in June. OlmblMt Xurmeli is a large bay between Ras Kurmeh on the east and Ras Kadarmeh on the west ; the soundings are regular, the 10-fathom line being nearly H miles from the shore, increasing to 38 fathoms at 4| miles, bottom of sand and (K>ral, with sand and shells in the ofiing. Ras Kilrmeh is iu Lat. 12'' 38' 35" N., Long. 53° 51' 10" E., and Ras Kadarmeh in Lat. 12° 42' 15" N., Lon^. 53° 38' 15" E. The swell is considerable during the N.E. Monsoon. ObablMt CftoUoBsirf which is partially sheltered during the N.E. Monsoon, lies between R4s GoUonsfr to the eastward, and R4s Bedu to the westward. The best anchorage is off the landing-place (800 yards distant), in 4 fathoms, low water, with the north peak of Rds Gallonsfr bearing N.E. by E., and the mosque 8.E. by E. The soundings under 10 fathoms, which are within a mile of the shore, are irregular ; from 20 fathoms the soundings deepen rapidly to no ground at 100 fathoms. The shore of this bay is fronted by a rocky reef extending off a quarter of a mile, and W. i N. of tlie village, If miles from the shore, is a small patch of 2 J fathoms. There is no shelter during the S.W. Monsoon. The mosque of Gollonsir is in Lat 12° 41' 15" N., Long. 63° 29' 80" E. Between Ras Gollonsir and Ras Samori to the eastward, a shoal fronts the shoL'e in some places a mile off; near its edge are several shallow pat4;hes of 2 fathoms. Olii&bbet Sliaab is a bay affording shelter from the N.E. Monsoon, but com- pletely open to the S.W. It lies between Ras Bcdu (Lat. 12° 39' 30" N., Long. 63° 23' 30" E.,) and R4s Shuab (Lat 12° 33' 20'' N., Long. 63° 18' 40" E.) The 10-fathoms line is ) of a mile off shore at the eastern side of the bay, increasing to 1^ miles at the western side, bottom of sand and rock. At 7 miles from the bottom of the bay the depth is 35 fathoms, rapidly deepening to no bottom at 100 fathoms. The best anchorage is in 10 fathoms, with Ras Bedu bearing N. f E., and Ras Bh&ab S.W. by W. J W., opposite the mangrove-trees growing close to a saltwater SOKOTRA AI^D ITS VICINITY. 375 lagoon. About 2 J miles eastward from RJks Shaab are two remarkable hills like eare ; they arc 1488 feet high, and visible from the S.W. aide of the island ; with these bearing S.W. by S., and Has Shaab S.W. by W. f W., there is good anchorage in 10 fathoms, bottom white sand. This is } of a mile off shore, and the water, is smooth daring the N.E. Monsoon. Mmm SHaab is the western extreme of the island: it is a fine bluff cape, ter- minating the sloping side of a mountain, off it a reef extends 300 yards. The coast thence trends S.E. for 18 miles, off which, for the greater part of the distance, is a 6^ fathoms bank, 1 mile off shore; inside there are soundings of 8 or 9 fathoms, and outside there are regular soundings of 20 to 25 fathoms about 5 or 6 miles off shore ; this bank is not more than half a mile wide. Olmbbet We, or Bander We, is the name given to the part of the coast between Baa Shaab and Ras Kattani, in Lat. 12° 22' 20" N., Long. 53° 32' 10" E. The anchorage inside the 6^ fathoms bank affords good shelter during the N.E. Monsoon. The coast on each side of Bas Kattani for a distance of 6 miles east and west Is rocky and precipitous ; thence a chain of mountains under different names stretches to the east end of the island : these mountains rise wall-like from a low plain (2 to 4 miles broad), which forms the sea margin of the island on the south side. The whole of the coast from Eas Kattani to R4s Feliuk is bold to approach, the 20 fathoms line being 4i to 8 miles off shore, but in some places there are overfalls of 2 and 3 fathoms. A vessel, during the fine season, may anchor in 9 to 12 fathoms, bottom of sand and coral. Bm Bllreseeli, in Lat. 12° 34' 15" N., Long. 54° 30' 50" E., is the eastern extreme of the island, and forms in two small rocky points a mile distant from each other ; a reef extends 600 yards off each, and at a distance of If miles to the east- ward and northward there is no bottom with 100 fathoms. The strong rippling produced by the tides leads navigators to suppose the reef off the cape extends farther than it really does. Bander Mmm B'Dresaeb is au anchorage to the S.W.-ward of the cape of that name, between the low point and the three dry patches of rock that lie off it. A vessel may bring up here in 9 fathoms, sand and rock, in tolerably smooth water, daring the N.E. Monsoon, with the outer small patch of ixxsks bearing £. by S., the low point N.E. i £., and the high bluff of Moin W. i N. The channel formed between the outer rocks and the reef projecting from the point has depths of 6 to 9 fathoms, but it is less than half a mile wide, and the overfalls and strong currents make it dangerous. Half a mile to the N.E.-ward there is no bottom at 80 to 90 fathoms. BM Una, in Lat. 12° 34^ 10" N., Long. 54° 27' E., is the extreme eastern bluff terminating the range of mountains already referred to ; being 1920 feet high, it ia a conspicuous otgect before the low land of Bds B'Dresaeh is visible. Islands and Bank of Soundings between Sokotra and Oape Chiardafttl (or Bae ABir)» Yeslrat Sabosmea, in Lat. 12° 39' 30" N., Long. 53^ 9' 20" E., is a small White rocky islet, forming in three peaks $ it is 800 yards long by 150 yards broad, and visible 25 or 30 miles ; from Gollonslr mosque it bears W. i S. 18 miles, and from Ras Shaab N.W. -J W. westerly 9 miles. In the channel between Sok6tra and Saboynea there is no danger ; and f of a mile off the islet there are i fathoms water. Digitized by ^ 876 SOKOTRA AND ITS VICINITY. Jexirat Sarsiv the easternmost of two islands frequently called the Brothers, is 3| miles in length, by 1^ miles in width at its widest part, near the centre; it rises perpendicularly from the sea to an elevation of 970 feet, except on the northern side, where the north point of the island projects about 700 yards from the base of the hill. The east end of the island bears from the western point of Sok6tra South (westerly) distant 27 miles. Soundings extend from the S.W. part of Sokotra to Darzi, varying from 15 to 20 fathoms, until near the latter, when they become deeper ; on the north side of the island a small bank extends 1^ miles, at which distance there arc 13 fathoms water, decreasing gradually to the shore, and increasing' to 127 fathoms at 4^ miles distance, from which the edge of the bank of sounding i-uns to the northward towards Jezirat Saboynea ; on the south side depths varying from 20 to 30 fathoms extend to a distance of 10 miles off shore, whence it rapidly deepens off the bank. The southern edge of the bank is nearly due East and West- The eastern bluff off Darzi is in Lat- 12° 6' 20" N,, Long. 53° 17' 30^' E. Jeslrat Bamlieb, the westernmost of the Brothers, bears from Darzi VV. by N. ; it is nearly 6^ miles long, by 3 miles in breadth at its eastern end ; at its western end it narrows to a point. The highest point of the island is elevated 2440 feet above the level of the sea; its shores are rocky, and the south side rises in perpendicular cliffs from the sea. A reef extends half a mile off the western point, and another from the N.E. point to the same distance ; and there ara two small rocky islets off the south-east side. In the channel between Samheh and Darzi, which is 9 miles wide, there is no danger — the soundings varying between 20 and 25 fathom.s, with bottom of sand and shells, occasionally patches of coral. E. by N., 1| miles from the N.W. point, is a small bank of 13 fathoms ; on the south side the bank of soundings extends 17 miles; and to the westward, soundings extend to Abd-al-Kuri, increasing midway to 145 fathoms, and decreasing again towards the latter island, near which the water is very deep. The west point of Samheh is in Lat. 12° 9' 20" N., Long. 52° 58' 30^'^ Abd-al-Xnri is a long narrow island between the west end of Sokotra and Rds 'Asir, but nearer to the latter ; it is 20 miles in length, by nearly 4 miles in width at its widest part. Two ranges of hills, separated near the centre, occupy the whole length of the island, and fi'om a distance it appears as two islands. The eastern range is 1670 feet above the sea at its western extreme, while the western range is only 500 feet high at its highest part. The northern coast is chiefly a sandy beach, with a few rocky points ; but the southern coast is composed of cliffs rising abruptly from the sea. The bank of soundings extends from 1 to 2f miles to the northward, and 4 miles to the southward of the island. The inhabitants are few, and very poor ; and they are seldom visited by strangers, for the island is entirely destitute of cultivation, and the water is very indifferent. Bacchus Bank. — ^To the north-eastward of the N.E. point (Ris Anjireh)i Bacchus Bank extends over 3 miles, on which the depths vary from 3 to 12 fathoms, rapidly deepening off the bank to the northward, where the edge of the bank is only distant one-third of a mile ; a strong ripple is created on this bank when the tide is setting in opposition to the wind. The depths off the eastern end of the island are 40 fathoms at 2{ miles, 50 fathoms at 3| miles, and 55 fathoms at 61 miles distance, from which it suddenly deepens into 100 fathoms. The width of the channel between the east end of Abd*al-Kuri and the west end of Samheh is 35 miles, in whic^ J^¥F9c^ ^^ SOKOTllA AND ITS VICINITY. 377 dangers except Bacchus Bank. The N.£. point of Abd-al-Enri is in Lat. 12^ 11' 15^' N., Long. 62^22' 2(y'E. The western extremity (Ras Khaisat-en-Eaum) of the island forms in two sharp rocky points, bearing north and soath of each other, half a mile distant ; from the northern point a reef of rocks extends west half a mile. The soundings off the west end of the island are very deep, there being 25 fathoms water 1 mile, and 20 fathoms 2 miles distant, sand and coral bottom. The south point of the western extreme is in Lat. 12° 13' W N., Long. 52° 2' 45" E. W.N.W. of this extremity of the island, and distant 9 miles, is a coral bank, 24 to 40 fathoms water, with deep soundings of 60 to 180 fathoms all round it. On the south coast the water is deep, there being 18 to 20 fathoms close to the cliffs, and increasing to 100 fathoms at 4 miles distance. The cliffs are abrupt, with here and there a rocky islet. Bandeb Salbh, or Leven Bay, is on the south side of the island, being a concavity in the coast line, immediately to the westward of the extreme of the high mountain. The anchorage is very good in from 6 to 10 fathoms water, coral bofctom, i to ^ a mile from the shore, affording shelter during the N.£. Monsoon ; but no supplies of any kind are to be procured. This is the narrowest part of the island, being only one mile across, and formed of elevated sand-hills. The sandy beach of Leven Bay is in Lat. 12° 10' 20" N., Long. 52° 12' 40" E. From the south-eastern point of Leven Bay the coast to the eastern extreme of the island is convex, formed of steep cliffs, with from 10 to 12 fathoms water close to them. The edge of the bank of soundings is 4 miles distant from the shore. Xal Fama, or Salts* WHite Sooks, 12 miles north of the west end of Abd-al-Kuri, are about three-quarters of a mile long by 200 or 300 yards in width ; they consist of two rocks divided by a narrow channel filled up with sunken rocks, and ai*e situated on the northern side of a large bank of soundings 10 miles in length N.E. and S.W., by 6 miles in breadth. The eastern rock, which is the largest, has one peak 282 feet high, and two smaller ones ; the western rock has also one large peak of the same elevation, and one smaller one. They form from different points of view in two to five peaks, and are well covered with guano, which gives them a snow-white appearance on all sides ; their only occupants are birds, which flock here in great numbers. These rocks are visible, in clear weather and during the day, about 20 miles ; but at night they are difficult to distinguish, owing to their colour. On the northern side the soundings only extend a short distance, increasing from 16 fathoms close to the rock, to no bottom at 100 fathoms at the distance of 1^ miles ; to the southward there are from 5 to 10 fathoms for a distance of 1^ miles, from which they gradually increase to 25 fathoms at 4| miles, and thence suddenly drop off the bank into no ground at 120 fathoms ; to the east and west of the rocks the edge of the bank is distant about 2 miles. Oliver Bank was discovered by the E.I. Ck).'s steamer Semiramis, on her passage to 'Aden, in 1845. On sounding during the night, one cast of 17 fathoms was obtained, and immediately after no bottom. On the return voyage the vessel was steered for the spot, when the same soundings were obtained. An exami- nation of the spot was subsequently made by Lieutenant Grieve, Indian Navy, in the Falinuinis, without, however, any success in finding it ; it is probably, therefore, very small. The position given is Lat. 13° 51' N., Long. 54° 5' £. ^ Digitized by L^OOQlC 378 THE N.E. COAST OF AFRICA. THE SOMALI (OR N.E.) COAST OF AFRICA, FROM RAS 'ASIR TO BURNT ISLAND. From R4s 'Asir to Ras AlCileh the coast trends in a W.N.W. direction, in a nearly straight line, for 30 miles ; there are a few projecting points, but no dangers exist. In the bay immediately to the westward of Ras 'Asir is good anchorage, and pro- tection from southerly winds, but more to the westward the ground is rocky from the shore to the lO-fathoms line, a distance of 1 mile. The soundings rapidly increase in depth from 10 fathoms to the edge of the bank, which off lUs 'At^ir is distant 2^ miles, increasing to 6^ miles off Ras Buah, and decreasing again to 2 mile^ offRasAltileh. Has Aluleb, in Lat. 11^ 59f' N., Long. 50^ 46^' E., is a very low, sandy, but prominent point, near the extremity of which is the narrow entrance to an exten- sive lagoon. The small village and anchorage of Aluleh lie on the west side of the point. The anchorage is on the edge of a narrow ledge of coral, 350 yards from the shore, and is sheltered from N.E. winds. The water at the village is bad, but cattle and abun- dance of firewood may be procured. From Ros Aluleh the coast trends to the W.S.W. 15 miles, as far as lUs Fiiuk, when it turns to the S.-by W. 7 miles to Marayeh. The shore, with the exception of Ras Filuk, is low and sandy, with an elevated stony plain between it and the mountun range in the interior. The bank of soundings extends but a short distance from the shore, being 5 miles in width to the northward of R^ Flliik, and only 1^ miles at Bander Filuk ; the depths increase rapidly from the shore, to 100 fathoms at those distances. . The AiMkluiA Bank, in Lat. 13^ Id' N., Long. 50^ {K £., was discovered in August, 1841, by Libutenaut Hewett, I.N., who reported it as an extensive bank having overfalls on it from 17 to 13 and 22 fathoms. Has nivk (or Rds-al-Fii), in Lat. IP 57^' N., Long. 60° 38' E., is a promi- nent hill 800 feet high, projecting far into the sea, 9 miles W.S.W. of Ras Altileh, and whether viewed from the eastward or westward has the appearance of an island, tlie land about it being low ; it may be seen at the distance of 40 miles in clear weather. The water is deep off it, there being 18 and 20 fathoms within a ^ of a mile. In the valley to the eastward is a lagoon of salt water and the bed of a water-course ; and to the westward is a small but deep bay, with good anchorage in from 8 to 10 fathoms water, where shelter may be found from easterly or southerly winds. The low sandy point 6 miles to the S.W.-ward of the above-named point, is also called Ras Filuk. The small fort and village of Filuk is situated close to the beach, 5 miles wmth- ward of the low point of Ris Filuk, off which is a coral bank with 3 to 10 fathoms water on it ; and immediately to the north of the village is the entrance of an exten- sive lagoon. Biarayeli is the principal town on this part of the coast, in Lat. 11° 43* N., Long. 50"^ 28' E. ; it is situated close to the beach, 7 miles southward of the viUf^ of Filuk, and is defended by forts; The anchorage off the town is good, in from 5 to 10 fathoms water, the soundings increasing gradually to 20 fathoms, at 1| jniles igi ize y g FROM RAS *ASIB TO BURNT ISLAND. 879 distance fram the shore, after which they heoome irregular with overtalU ; the edge of the bank lies 5 miles from the shore. Supplies. — Good water may bo obtained from a well two miles inland ; bullocks, sheep, and firewood may be procured in abundance. From Marayeh to Ras Gori, a distance of 47 miles, the coast trends in a general W« by S. direction, but slightly concave, with small projecting rocky points. The soundings are deep, and the shore bold to appixmch, there being no dangers except off the town of Kh6r, where a bank of 3 fathoms extends off shore to the N.W. and West one mile. The edge of the bank of soundings varies in distance from the shore from 1} to 6 miles ; bottom of sand. Raa Oorl, in Lat. IP 3CK N., Long. 49"^ 43^ E., is a high rocky cape, 60 miles W.S.W. of Ras Filuk, being the termination of a high range of lofty table mountains, which stretch away to the E.S.E. The soundings off the cape are very deep, and the 100 fathoms line is only distant from the coast 1 mile. mmm Antarem in Lat IP 27^ N., Long. 49'' 35}' E., is a high rocky cape 9 , miles W. by S. from Rds Gori, and is the termination of another range of lofty mountains ; the shore between the two capes is sandy and covered with bushes ; the soundings extend off shore 3 miles. From Ras Antareh the coast trends W.S.W. |16 miles to Ras-al-Harar, and is divided into two shallow bays by a rocky point called Ras Aburgabeh, 6-| miles S.W. of Rds Antareh. The shores of both bays are sandy, and behind them is a range of hills from 800 to 1500 feet high. Close to the westward of Bos Aburgabeh are two small villages. With the exception of a small 2 fathoms bank half a mile north of the westernmost of the villages, the soundings are regular, and there are no dangers ; the depths increase gradually to 20 fathoms, from which they rapidly deepen into no bottom at 120 fathoms, at the distance of 2 to 6 miles from the shore. The general nature of the bottom is sand. In the bay westward of Ras Aburgabeh thei'e is very good anchorage in 9 and 10 fathoms 1| to 1-^ miles from the shore, but it is open and unprotected. BM-al-Bamr, in Lat. 11"" 20}' N., Long. 49"" 20' E., is a prominent rocky point, about 300 feet high, terminating a narrow ridge of hills. The soundings off tlifi point increase from 6 fathoms close to the pointi to 10 fathoms at 1-^ miles distant, and 100 fathoms at 29- miles. From Ras-al-Hamr, the coast runs in a geneitkl West direction for 40 miles to Ras Hadadeh ; it is slightly concave, forming a bay, generally low, with occasional hills, and backed by a high mountain range (Jebel Wursungeli), averaging 6600 feet in height, without any prominent peaks, being perfectly level along the summit. The range extends as far west as Meyet. The soundings on this portion of the coast appear regular, but deep ; the 10 fathoms line is from ^ to 1 mile distant from the shore, and the edge of the bank of sounding is from 1-^ to 4 miles, being very steep, — in some parts falling suddenly from 20 to 100 fathoms. The bottom is rooky in* shore ; sand, and sand and sheUs farther out. Bas Hadadeli, in Lat. 11"" 20^' N., Long. 48'' 40^' £., ia a rooky point about 300 feet high, backed by a cluster of hills 600 feet in height. From Rds Hadadeh to Ras Galw6ni the coast trends W.S.W., a distance of about 47 miles. It is low near the sea, with an occasional hill, but bounded in the interior by the lofty range of Jebel Wursungeli. The soundings on this part of the coast are irTegular, and the bank extends off shore from li to 4 milesi Indiffennt and Digitized by VjOOQL«C 380 PROM RAS 'ASIR TO BURNT ISLAND. unprotected anchorage may generally be found in from 5 to 10 fathoms water close in to the shore ; bottom of sand and rock. Has Oalwent, in Lat. 11° 8' N., Long. 47° 57' E., is a low sandy point, to which a spur of the mountain range slopes. From R4s Galw^ni the coast trends West 9 miles, to an unnamed point ; whence to Ras Stiereh, a distance of 15 miles W. ^ N., it is concave, forming a bay 3 j miles in depth. The shore is low and sandy the whole distance, and thinly covered with bushes at a short distance from the beach, behind which undulating hills stretch to the range of mountains in the interior. The edge of the bank of soundings is at an average distance of 2i miles from the coast, except at one point, E. b}- N. of Ras Suereh, where it is 6 miles distant. The 10 fathoms line is about } to 1 mile off shore, from which the depths rapidly increase to 100 fathoms. The bottom is generally sand and coral, occasionally shells ; — ^and towards the edge of the bank, mud. Bas Saereb is a low bluff point, from which the slightly convex coast line trends to Ras Katib, in a general W. by S. direction, for a distance of 22 miles ; the range of undulating hills, mentioned above, still continue to bound the coast, with occasional spurs from them approaching the sea. Bas Xatlb is also a low rocky bluff point, off which the soundings are very deep, there being 22 fathoms water close to it, and to the westward of it the sound- ings do not extend beyond a mile. Baa Bambais, 8 miles E.N.E. of Rds Katih, is a low sandy point, and may be known by a single large tree on the beach. Burnt Island, or Meyet, in Lat. 11° 13' N., Long. 47° 14' E., is a barren rock, 430 feet above the sea, and perfectly white, being covered with guano. It lies 51 miles from Ras Hambais, the nearest point on the mainland, which beai-s from it S. by E. i E. ; R4s Katib bears from it S.S.W. f W. A reef projects about 200 yards from its western extreme, with a sunken rock having only 2 fathoms w^ater over it. The soundings in the channel between the island and the maiu, in which there are no dangers, are very irregular, varying from 13 to 22 fathoms, and to the south-eastward to 78 fathoms. The depths close to the island are 13 to 19 fathoms. The edge of the bank of soundings is 3 miles distant to the northward of the island, and the same to the westward ; to the north-eastward it is 5^ miles distant. The bottom is chiefly coral, — occasionally sand, or sand mixed with shells. No water is to be found on Burnt Island except in rainy went her, which lodging in pools on the summit of the rock, percolates through, and fmd^ its exit close to the water's edge. On the south side of the island is a remarkable cove or natural dock, capable of admitting a ship of 300 tons by clenching the ends of a cable through the holes in the rock : the remains of two clenches, of cables were found affixed to the rock in 1801. In October, 1844, the remains of a hempen cable were found, which had been apparently rove through a hole in the rock. From Ras Katib the coast runs S.W. 8 miles to Jebel Me^-et (1200 feet high), which terminates on the coast at a small rocky point. The coast for 4 miles from Ras Katib is composed of low cliffs, after which it becomes sandy. The soundings are very deep, and the edge of the bank is only 1.^- miles distant from the shore, affording no safe anchorage. From Jebel Meyet the coast trends west for 4 miles, where it forms a low, round, Digitized by L^OOQ IC THE ZEYLA SHOALS. 381 sandy point called Has Jalbu, off whicH the soundings are still veiy deep, extending off shore only half a mile. S. ^ W. from Rfis Jalbu the high mountain range of Jebel Wursungeli terminates in a lofty pyramidal peak, 6170 feet above the sea ; and 11 miles to the eastward of the peak is the loftiest part of the range, 7150 feet high. For vessels bound to or from the Bed Sea, the only real dangers in the Gulf of *Aden are — (1), the reefs in the vicinity of Zeyla, on the African coast, which are so placed as to render it almost impossible to give a satisfactory and clear description of them i and (2), the extensive bank of broken ground between Has Kau and B4s 'Arah on the Arabian side ; but with ordinary precaution — with a good look-out, the regular use of the lead, and with occasional night observations, all these dangers may be avoided. 1. Dangers on the African side, in the vicinity of Zeyla i— At the distance of 92 miles from Berbereh and on the parallel of 10° 59^ N., is the small inlet of the sea called Kh6b Kjlrangabit, off which, bearing E.S.E. 5^ miles from the entrance, is Shab Kaba^ngabIt, a dangerous rocky patch, just awash at low water, and distant from the coast line 2 miles. It has 10 and 11 fathoms water close to it all round, and 40 fathoms at the distance of 5 miles to the N.E.-ward. Bliab MadiMl is a dangerous rocky shoal, 1^ miles in length N.W. and S.E. by I of a mile in breadth, and distant from the nearest land 2| miles. On the south-western side is a small sandbank, which covers at high water springs. The centre or dqr part of the shoal in Lat. IP 3i' N., Long. 43° 38J' E., bears from Khdr Karangarit N.N.E. 4J miles; and from Shdb Karangarit N.W. by N. 7i miles. To the N.W., N.E., and S.B. of the shoal, the soundings are regular, there being 10 and 11 fathoms water at a distance of 1^ miles, increasing gradually to 40 fathoms at a distance of 9^ miles from the shore ; but between the shoal and the shore the soundings are irregular, there being a bank with 2 to 3 fathoms water on it, on either side of which there are 7 and 8 fathoms. N.E. by N. li miles from Khor Madigi (another small inlet of the sea, and 7i miles N.W.-ward of Khor Karangarit), is a bank with 1 and 2 fathoms water over it, on which the sea breaks heavily at times, between which and the shore the depth is 4| fathoms, and 7 fathoms immediately to seaward. Bas »Ia»kan is a low, round, and slightly projecting point, off which a reef of rocks extends 1 mile. N.E. of the cape, distant 2^ miles, is a dangerous reef of rocks, just awash at low water, rather more than J a mile in diameter, with 5 to 9 fathoms water close to it all round : it bears from Zeyhi mosque S.E. } S. 11^ miles. The channel between the shoal and the reef projecting from the cape is If miles wide, with 5 to 7 fathoms water over a mud bottom. The coast from Eas Maskan to Zeyla, a distance of 12 miles N. by W. J W., is low and swampy, with a range of sand-hills, from 30 to 40 feet in height, about 2 mDes from the beach. It is fronted by a reef of rocks, and the following dangers known as the Shab Sheikh Yakub : — A reef of rocks, dry in some parts at low water, and about half a mile in diameter, having 6 fathoms water close to it all round. It is distant from the shore 4 miles, and bwuns from Zeyla mosque S.E. by E. distant 6 miles. , ^^^ . ^ •' ^ Digitized by VjOOyiC 382 THE ZEYLA SHOALS. A rooky patch, having 2^ fathoms water on it, and 4 fathomR close to it. It in 2i miles from the shoi-e, and bears from Ze3'Itt mosquo S.E. J S., distant 4^ miles. A 5-fathom bank, 5 miles off shore, and bearing from Zeyla mosque S.E. i E., distant 8 miles. The soundings increase gradually from the shore to seaward, until a depth of 40 fathoms is reached, beyond which no soundings have been t^ken. Zeyla (the mosque) is in Lat. 11° 22' N., L(mg. 43° 27-J-' E., and is of some commercial importance. Of the many reefs and dangers in the immediate vicinity of this place, it is almost impossible to give a clear description :*— " The harbour is 2 miles wide North and South, by 3 miles East and West, having depths of 3 and 4 fathoms at low water springs, muddy bottom, the deepest water being near Sadaldm island. On the West side are a scries of sandbanks ex- tending from Ras Takusheh, a low sandy point 3 J miles W. by N. of the mosquo, in a N.N.E.-ly direction towards Sadaldin island, having three channels between them, each about 300 yards wide, with 3 fathoms water in them at low water springs. On the North it is bounded by Sadaldfn island, which is of coral formation, elevated about 20 feet above the level of the sea, and thickly covered in some places with bushes, otherwise perfectly barren. The island is 2 miles long in a North and South direction, by 1~^ miles East and West : a reef extends from it in all directions, to a distance of 1 mile from its S.E. and S.W. extremes : ^ of a mile from its N.W. end, and I a mile from iU N.E. end. To the eastward of the island, and separated from the reef by a narrow cliannel 700 yards wide, with 4 to 6 fathoms water in it, is a reef 1 mile long, lying N.N.E. and S.S.W., dry in some parts at low-water springs : it bears from Zeyla mosque N. by E. i E. 5 miles ; and South of this' reef nearly mid-channel is a small patch of 5 fathoms. There is a small village and tank of water at the south end of the island. On the South, the harbour is bounded by the reef, which extends from the shore J of a mile, and from Rds Hamar IJ miles to the North and N.E. A bank of hard sand, having on it 3 and 3^- fathoms at low water, extends from Has Hamar 4^ miles in a direction E.N.E., and is 3 miles in width. " Shab Filfll are two sunken reefs lying off the hard sandbank which extends from Rds Hamdr, with a channel IJ miles wide between, having 4 to 6 fathoms water in it, over a mud bottom : they are separated from each other by a channel 1| miles wide, with 6 fathoms water in it. The north-western reef is 2 miles long, lying W. by N. and E. by S., by IJ miles wide, the centre of it bearing from Zeyla mosque N. E. by E. 8 miles distant. The south-eastern reef is 2 miles long, lying North and South, by li miles wide, the centre of it bearing from ZeyUi mosque E. by N. i N. Si miles. " Between these two reefs, to the south-westward, is another small rocky patch, nearly dry at low water, about 300 yards in diameter, and bears from the mosque N.E. by E. i E., distant 7i miles. *' There is also a very dangerous rocky patch, about 300 yards in diameter, having on it 1^ fathoms at low water springs, and 6 to 10 fathoms water all round it. Between it and the reef off Ivat island, is a channel 2^ miles wide, with depths of * COMMA17DER C. G. WARD, I.N., from LiEUTEitANT W. C. Babker's privftte M.S. ; see tiso Jo«n.lE.GeOg.S0C,TOLXTlU.p.l»0. Digitized by LaOOglC DANGERS-4)0AST OF ARABIA. S83 9 and 10 fathomB water in it; and between it and Shdb Filfil the channel U one mile wide, with depths of 8 to 10 fathoms water in it. This patch bears from Zeyla mosque N.E. f N., distant 8 miles. "The soundings to the eastward of Shah Filfil gradually increase from 17 to 26 fathoms at a distance of 4 miles, then suddenly drop into no bottom at 40 fathoms : the bottom Is all mud, with the exception of the bank off JUs Hamdr, and the depths decrease gradually towards the harbour. " Zvat or Bfkt is a low sandy island, with a few stunted bushes scattered over its surface, lying to the northward of Sadaldfn island. It is 2^ miles long in a direc- tion N.E. by N. and S.W. by S. ; the western side is steep*to, having 8 or 9 fathoms water close to the beach : a reef, however, extends to the eastward of the island 3| miles; and to the south-westward 1^ miles in rooky patches and overfalls, having a ehannel one mile wide between it and Sadaldfn island, with 5 to 7 fathoms water in it. The south-west point of the island bears fW)m Zeyla mosque N. j W., distant rather more than 8 miles. There are two rocky patches bearing from the south- west point of Iv&t island as follows — ^viz., N. i W. distant 1^ miles, and W. i S. 3'} miles. The former has 11 fathoms water close to it on the north and west sides, and 6 fathoms between it and Ivat island. Between the latter and Ivat island the depths are 9 and 10 fathoms, and between it and the sandy spit off Has Gomehlf, from the nearest point of which it is distant nearly 1^ miles, there are 7 fathoms water. There is also a rocky patch, dry at low water, close to the westward of the sandbanks forming the western boundary of Zeyla harbour. Between Ivdt island, Sadaldfn island, and Rds Gomehlf the depths are from 6 to 7 fathoms." 2. On the Arabian side the dangers are as follows ;— SAB JKAir, in Lat. 12° 39|' N., Long. 4A° 24}' E., is a projecting cape, which, from its dark appearance, is known by the name of the " Black" Cape. Three miles inland to the N.N.W. is a remarkable saddle hill (Jebel Ka'u), 798 feet above the sea ; three other small hills occur to the S.W. of it near the coast. The coast to the eastward of -B&s Ka'u is flat and sandy for a distance of 18 miles, as far as K&s 'Amrdn, forming a bay nearly 5 miles deep, with regular soundings, there being 12 and 13 fathoms 2 or 3 miles off shore, and no dangers ; the bottom is principally clay and sand, with an occasional patch of rock. XHOR 'AMLaLSr is a remarkable inlet, situated 17 miles W. by S. from Bas Ka'u 5 it is 4i miles long from B. to W., by 2J broad, and is almost land-looked by a narrow spit of sand which projects from its eastern shore, and forms its southern boundary, leaving a very narrow entrance to the westward, with only 6 feet water. Between Bds Ka'u and Kh6r 'Amr&n, a very dangerous sand-bank extends, at one point reaching 4 miles off shore : no vessel should approach nearer than 15 fathoms by day and 20 fathoms by night, and even then great attention must be paid to the lead ; for although the limit of the bank may sometimes be seen from the masthead of a vessel, much caution is always necessary in approaching this part of the coast, as the water shoals very suddenly. On some parts of the bank, the water breaks at low water springs. The bank of soundings extends 20 miles from the shore, there being 126 fathoms water at that distance. SAB •AVAX, in Lat. 12° 37^' N., Long. 4S9 53V E., and 31 miles W. by S. from B&s Ka'u, is the southernmost cape of Arabia ; it is a very low, sandy, rounded point, and so difficult to distinguish at night tliat it is one of the most dangerous capes on Digitized byVjOOQlC 884 THE BED SEA. the coasts for being in the direct; route for vessels proceeding to or from the R«d Sea, and having a bank of hard sand extending nearly 3^ miles off shore to the east- ward of it, with two or more dangerous rocky patches with only 9 feet of water on them, several vessels have been wrecked in this vicinity. This bank, which extends as far as Kh6r 'Amran, is the more dangerous, as the water suddenly shoals from 15 fathoms ; and a ship with good headway would hardly have time to get a second cast of the lead before touching the ground : it is advisable not to approach nearer than 15 fathoms by day and 20 fathoms by night. The whole of the coast between B&s 'Amr4n and Eas A'rah is low and generally sandy, with a few bushy shrubs ; but here and there a rocky point occurs. The natives are treacherous, and not to be trusted. Anclioraffe.— There is good anchorage in the small bay to the westward of Bds 'A'rah, affording shelter against the strong winds during the N.E. Monsoon : the coast immediately round the bay is rather steep. THE BED SEA. It does not come witliin the scope of this work to give directions for and a description of the Bed Sea; commanders bound thither should be supplied with Capt. Elwon and Mobesby's ''Red Sea Directions," now published by the Admiralty. The lights* in the Red Sea are at Ferim Island, on the Dssdalus Shoal, in Jubal Strait, at Zafarana, and at Suez ; these are fully described in the " Light List" at the end of this work. The following general remarks on the passage of the Red Sea are by Cjlpt. F. G. Dent, and may be of service to a commander going there for the first time :* — " Bound to Aden during the N.E. Monsoon, after rounding the Cape of Good Hope, the middle passage is preferable, passing to the eastward of Bodrigues, say 67° E., and keeping this meridian as nearly as possible until the ship is in Lat. 8° or 9° N., then stretch over to the north-west, in order to weather Sok6tra, before keeping away for Aden. " Leaving Aden for the Bed Sea during the S.W. Monsoon (June, July, and August), short tacks of two hours' duration on the Arabian side, up to Bab-el- Mandeb Peak, will be found most advantageous, — keeping clear of the overfalls between Bas Ka*u and Bas A'rah, the ripple on which can be seen by day ; at night, the lead should be kept going when standing in, and do not reach inside of 17 fathoms till they are passed. On arrival at the Straits of Bab*el-Mandeb, the wind will be found blowing down the sea from about N.W. The Straits being difficult to beat through, it is advisable to dodge under the lee of Bab-el-Mandeb Peak till daylight, before making the attempt ; the large strait is preferable with a loaded ship. On the last passage drawing 17 feet, drifted out on the first trial. The next morning the following plan was successful, occupying thirteen hours : — From close under the lee of Bab-el- Mandeb Peak, stood over towards Perim Island, worked short tacks imder the lee of it, until nearly abreast of the bay on the south-west side of the island; from thence stood over to the African side, weathered Bas Seajam, and the cluster of rocks to the * Mercantile Marine Mag., 1859, vol. yi pp. 1-9. Digitized by LjOOQIC THE RED SEA. 385 north-west of it, which are visible above water, made several short tacks on the African shore (where I found the current slack) before standing to the north-east, and weathering Perim Island. " From the Straits, past Mocha and np to the Hamish islands, the Arabian side shonld be kept ; from thence, passing between the Qreat and Little Harnish, keeping to the westward of Jibbel Zoogar, Zebayer islands, and Jibbel Teer, the Arabian side is best for beating up. If bound to Cosire, Namahn island should be reached before standing over to the western side for it. Bound to Suez, the Arabian side should be kept until the island of Joubah is sighted to the north-west of Moilali, from thence stand over to the African side, work up under the lee of Shadwan Island, and watch a favourable opportunity for beating through the Straits of Jubal. " Beating up from Jibbel Teer to Moilah on the Arabian side, two plans may be followed : First, by working short-tacks near the reefs during the day, standing well off at dusk, and tacking so as to be near the reefs again at daylight; this, with a constant look-out from the foreyard, is the safer, though more tedious way, and requires but little calculation as to the position of the ship beyond the latitude at noon. The other is, to be well in mid-channel about dusk (having afternoon ob- servations for chronometers to be sure of the distance from the reefs), and ready for a long stretch on the port tack to the northward, as the wind at this time backs a point, sometimes two or three points, to the westward, and remains so the greater part of the night This is the most expeditions way of turning up, but requires great attention and a good chronometer. '' On arrival off the Straits of Jubal, vessels were formerly in the habit of remun- ing under Bas Mahommed, for an opportunity to beat through. Bas Mahommed is low, not easily distinguished in the night, and the set of the tides varying, several ships have been on the reef at night, among them an American ship, in charge of Jerboose Serroul, one of the oldest and best Arab pilots in the Bed Sea. Between Shadwan island and the Jaffatine islands, close up under the lee of the former, is now preferred by all the Arab pilots who go up with ships from Jiddah. " The Straits of Jubal may be worked through by night, with a good moon up. If dark or hazy, it is not safe. In 1842 it was attempted by one of the E. I. Company's schooners, under the command of an officer who was thoroughly ac- quainted with the place, and in doing so, she got on shore on the reefs above Jubal, on the western side ; the breeze was moderate, weather rather hazy, very little sea on, vessel under all plain sail, with a good look-eut on both bows. In getting the stream anchor out into a boat, the tackle parted and the anchor was lost ; prepara- tions were then made to rig a raft across the two quarter boats, for the purpose of canying out a bower anchor ; before this was completed, the vessel's stem fell with the tide, and she slipped off into deep water. " On the eastern side of Jubal Island is a white patch, visible on a moonlight night ; from the anchorage at the south end of Shab Ally ; this cannot be seen, so that in standing to the north-east on the port tack, care must be taken to go round before losing sight of it. This is an excellent and favourite mark of the Arab pilots, by one of whom it was pointed out to me. Standing to the westward on the star- board tack, the bearings of Jubal Island, and the high land of Zeitee, will indicate the time to go about. With a dark night coming on, when abreast of Jubal Island, good anchorage is to be found close in under the south side; this is nreferabhttathe »« "M'^ "i ^oiaaan witn nee, and those from England to Suez with coals, from the I^ne and Liverpool, for the Digitized by LjOOQIC 'ADEN AND ITS VICINITY. 887 Peninsular and Oriental Company, the Eed Sea is but seldom visited by merchant vessels. Occasionally American and French ships will proceed to Mocha or Hodeidah to purchase coffee ; the latter will sometimes proceed to Massowah and purchase a cargo of mules for the Mauritius or Bourbon. " At Suez, sand is supplied for ballast, and placed on deck at 2s, per ton. The port charges are trifling. *' Water and fresh provisions can be obtained on the passage up, at Mocha, Hodeidah, Jiddah, Wedge, and Toor— all easy of access without pilots, except Jiddah, which is not safe to attempt without one ; but vessels hove-to outside, near the reefs in sight of the town, with a pilot-jack flying, will soon have one alongside. Beating down against southerly winds, vessels in want of dunnage, or fire- wood, can anchor and obtain it for the cutting. Off the north end of Jibbel Zooghur, and on the north-west side of Jezirat Fartmar, on the African side, south-west of Mocha. Pilots for the Eed Sea can be obtained at 'Aden, but they are not so good as those at Jiddah, particularly for the northern part of the sea. Jebbouse Sebboul is the only pilot at Jiddah who speaks English, but many of them understand Hindustanee. " The agent at Suez being limited as to the amount of cash to be advanced for ship's use, commanders of ships who have not quick despatch may find themselves in an awkward situation for waut of money to pay disbursements ; and as there are no parties in a position to advance money in return for captain's bill on owner, a journey to Alexandria, and detention of the ship is the consequence. *' Owners who have ships chartered for Suez, can correspond and arrange with some firm at Alexandria, to forward to Suez any stores required. Messes. Tax- CBEDi, Aoius, and Co., from long connexion nith tha shipping interest at Malta and Alexandria, are in a position to do this satisfactorily. '* Scorbutic ulcers, to which seamen are so liable after a long salt-beef passage, are in the Red Sea difficult to eradicate ; an efficacious mode of treatment, in the absence of fresh provisions, is to apply lint dipped in fresh water, and kept moist with the same. Generally the climate may be considered healthy, although excessively hot at times. " A boom foresail) and an apparatus for distilling salt water, will be found advan- tageous ) the former will greatly assist in turning to windward, and the latter will amply repair its cost, as fresh water is not only difficult to obtain, but the best is brackish, and the average price at any of the ports is £1 per ton. " Commanders, however, are recommended to get their supplies of fresh provisions * out, either at Johanna or Jiddah, for which purpose they had better provide them- selves with cash for the same, in dollars, prior to leaving England ; they will then only have to lay off 'Aden to receive and post letters." 'ADEN HAEBOUR AND ITS TICINITY. The aAT OV 'Aasir is situated between two lofty, peninsular-form promon< toriesr-Cape 'Aden (or Jebel Shamsh&n) on the east, and Jebel Hasan on the west— which rise abruptly from the low sandy region of Southern Arabia. Cape 'Adeiif the most remarkable feature on the south coast of Arabia, is so c c 2 888 'ADEN. conspicaoiu that it cannot be mistaken, being more elevated and mnch. more peaked than the rock of Gibraltar, to which, however, it bears some resemblance ; it extends 5 miles east and west, and 3 miles north and sonth ; and the highest pari (1776 feet above the sea, and visible 60 miles), is called Jebel Shamshdu— a name expressive of the iurreted peaks on its summit. Bis Marshigh is a narrow cape, projected from the promontory to the south- eastward of Cape 'Aden ; it shelters (from N.E.-lj winds) the entrance of Bander Daras which lies between 'Ei&s Marshigh and R&s Taih, a point half-way toward Raa Sinallah. Flaffstaffi^The flagstaff, hitherto on Sii'ah island at the east side of 'Aden, is now removed to the highest part of Marshigh promontory at the S.E. comer of the peninsula. Bas Sinailah, the southernmost point of the peninsula, is in Lat 12° 45' W N., Long. 46'^ Of 4iy' E. On old charts this point is called Cape 'Aden. North-westward of Bds Sinailah, distant 3| miles, is B&s Tarshon, the extreme west point of the peninsula, near to which is a peak 988 feet high. A little more than a mile W. i N. &om B4s Sinailah is Jezirat Denafah, or Bound island. To the north (a little easterly) of Bas Tarshein, distant about i a mile, is Uaa Marbtit (or Steamer point), off which is the light vessel : continuing now to the north-eastward, at the distance of rather more than ^ a mile from Bas Marbdt, is the small point of Bas i'bn Jarbein; 6(X) yards further eastward lies the Flint rock (or Sheikh Ahmed), and i of a mile beyond is the rocky point of El 'Ainah ; then, at } a mile more to the eastward, is Pomt Hejaf, forming the southern and western limit of the inner harbour of 'Aden, immediately off which lies a rock named Jeramah. The peninsular promontory of 'Aden is almost divided from the main land by a creek on the eastern side of the inner harbour, called Khor Maksa, contiguous to which is a large swamp. 9ebel Baaaa is the mountainous peninsular promontoxy, to the westward of and opposite to Cape 'Aden ; it is six miles long from E. to W. by three miles in breadth ; and its highest peak (in the form of a sugar-loaf) rises to an altitude of 1237 feet above the sea-level. To each of its numerous projecting points the Arabs give a name : — on the S.W. are Bas Feikam and Bas Alargah ; the most southern point— Baa Mujallab Heidi— forms the western limit of a small bay called Bander Sheikh : and Bas Abti Kiyimah divides this bay from Khor Kadir. Bocks. — On the southern and eastern sides of the promontory of Jebel Hasan are * nine rocky islets, nearly connected with the main at low water springs : one is in the small bay of Bander Sheikh, to the eastward of Bas M(^allab Heidi ; two lie in the middle of the entrance to Kh6r Kadir, to the N. of which extends a reef of rocks for a quarter of a mile; another islet, Jezirat Salil, S.E. of which is a rock awash, is situated off the S.E. point, called Bas S4lil; and five of them off the N.E. bluff, about one mile from the shore. The bays and islands round the promontory are safe to approach, with proper attention to the lead, for the soundings decrease gradually to the shore. About 11(X) yards to the northward of the extreme point of Bds Abti Kiyamah is the white tomb of Sheikh Kadir. Near this spot the natives deposit coffee, cotton, and a few other articles of merchandise, in readiness for the small trading boats 'ADEN HARBOUR. 389 lying in Bander Sheikh and £h6r Klidir, the only two ports belonging to the 'Akrabi tribe, who dwell on and in the vicinity of the promontory. The outline of the whole of Jebel Hasan is very picturesque ; a deep ravine winds through the hilly tract from Bander Fe'ikam to the little bay of Bander Sheikh. The land to the northward is low, and immediately at the back of the mountains a deep inlet, named Kh6r Biyar Ahmed or Sei'ldn, extends three miles to the westward, almost insulating the promontory of Jebel Hasan. Ass'a Eabs. — At the north-eastern end of this mountainous promontory is a remarkable double peak of granite, 700 feet in height, which, from its peculiar shape, 18 known by the name of the Ass's Ears, and is a remarkable object from seaward. Biyar Ahmed, a small fort and village, about 3 miles from the beach, and 6^ miles north of the Ass's Ears, is the residence of the chief (or sultan) of the 'Akrabi tribe. These people are treacherous, and not to be trusted. The chief produce of the country is jowari (millet), of which great quantities ai'e exported. Jebel Hasan and 'Aden promontory are not very unlike, having at a dis- tance the appearance of two islands, — one on each side of the fine harbour they enclose. U — Bander Tuwayyi, or 'Aden West Bay, more generally known as 'Aden Back Bay, is formed by the two peninsulas just described. It is about 8 miles broad from east to west, by 4 miles deep ; and is divided into two bays by a flat which runs off half a mile to the southward of the small island 'Aliyah. The entrance between Rds Salil on the west and B4s Tarshein on the east is 3-^ miles in width. The depths of water in the western bay are from 3 to 4 fathoms, decreasing gradually towards the shore ; across the entcance the depths are 4-^ to 5 fathoms, and at a distance of 2 miles outside 10 to 12 fathoms ; bottom, sand and mud — both inside and outside the bay. The town of 'Aden is about 4 miles irom the landing-place. The inner bay, known as 'Aden harbour, is at high water between 3 and 4 miles long from north to south, and 2 miles broad, but the sand-banks at its northern and eastern shores, which dry at low water springs, contract the harbour to about two- thirds the above dimensions ; the entrance, between the sandspit off the island of 'Aliyah on the north and R4s Hej4f on the south, is, at low water, about i of a mile across ; off H&s Hej4f is a dangerous sunken rock. The depths across the entrance, and in the centre of the bay, are from 2 to 2^ fathoms, decreasing towards the shore. This harbour can be used only by small vessels. A fine pier has been built here, and a large village has sprung up near it. Islands. — ^There are several islands in the inner bay ; the eastern and principal one, Jezfrat Saw4yih, is 300 feet high, and almost joined to the main land at low water springs : the others are named Marztik Kabir, Keis el Hamm&n, Kalfetei'n, and Feringi ; and on the sand-spit at the north side of the entrance are two small islets named Jam 'Alf, and 'Aliyah : outside, about 2 cables distant from the penin- sula, is the island Sheikh Ahmed, or Flint rock, with a channel between it and the main of 2 fathoms. Tdght^ — Off Ras Marbut, in the inner harbour, a light-vessel (painted red), is moored in 24 feet; it exhibits sl fixed white light, and carries.^at^|h^ mast-head, a a90 'ADEN HARBOUR AND TOWN. red ball by daj, and fires a gun and boms a blue light when a vessel enters daring the night ; position, Lat 12P 4,7' N. Long. 45'' I' 15^ £. AnoHwrmgeg — ^A yessel may anchor in any part of these bays ; bat the usual anchorage is between Flint rock and Bas ibn Jarbein, — off the ooal sheds, situated near the latter. The tides in the bay are very irr^olar, being influenced by the currents outside. IMrectloiis. — ^The coast round Cape 'Aden is bold to approach, and a vessel may always choose her own distance. A vessel coming from the westward may steer direct for the light-vessel, rounding it to the northward, and thence to the anchorage. In like manner a vessel from the eastward, after passing B^s Tarshein, may steer directly for the light-vessel, and on to the anchorage. A vessel working into the bay, towards the anchorage, may stand boldly across in any direction, being guided by the lead, until the light-vessel is reached, to the north of which the depth becomes less, and short tacks must be made. It is advisable always to moor, the anohorage being rather confined ; and good scope of cable should be given, in consequence of the sand squalls, which come from the northward and eastward Wter sultry weather, and which give but little warning. 0iippUe»« — The water supplied to the shipping from the welLs is very brackish ; but good water, distilled from the sea by a condensing apparatus which has lately been erected in one of the small bays in the harbour, may be purchased at I3s. per ton, not including casks or boat hire. A considerable sum has been expended in clearing out the old Portugue»o tanks discovered (in 1850) near the town, from which water may be procured at a less price, but the charge for carriage to the harbour would raise the cost to more than that of the distilled water. There are immense stores of coal at 'Aden, the principal part of which belongs to the Peninsular and Oriental Company. Private merchants have lai'ge quantities stacked in the bay inside Sheikh Ahmed, or Flint rook. There are great facilities for coaling steamers. Provisions of every description may be procured ; but fruit and vegetables are scarce and dear. Trades — 'Aden was declared a free port in 1850, since which it has engrossed nearly tlie whole of the coffee trade formerly enjoyed by Mokhd. The principal articles of export are coffee and houey ; imports chiefly coal, cotton goods, sheep, malt liquors, wines, spirits, and sundries. 'Aden is in the territory of the Abdali tribe, which is not friendly towards Europeans ; consequently, it is not safe to land on the western shore of the West or Back bay. The religion of the Abdali tribe is Mohammedan, and they are, apparently, very strict observers of their creed. r,— To the N. W.-ward of Bas Marshigh, distant about U mile, is situated the town of 'Aden, on a plain rather more than half a mile square, encircled on the land side by singularly-pointed hills, having its eastern face open to the sea, while immediately in front is the rocky fortified island of Sfrah. This island, which commands the eastern bay and town of 'Aden, is a triangular rock about 430 feet high towards the southern end, half a mile long by 600 yards wide : the passage which formerly existed between it and the main is now filled by sand, consequently at low water it is joined to the coast. Between Sirab island and Bis Marshigh the carve of the 'igitize( ON MAKING 'ADEN. 89X randy bay, named Bander Hokat ; there is another to the northward, between the north point of the uland and B^s Kutam. The following remarks on the passage to, and on making, *Aden are by CjunAiS Bbown, of the Ayrshire : — * " Crossed the line on the ISth in Long. 48° 54' E. ; our average current from Bourbon to the Equator S. 31° W., 105 miles in nine days ; from thence to B^ Hafiin the currents were very strong and mutable. The first day after crossing the line we were swept to the westward thirty miles, and afterwards constantly to the eastward, more or less, with a great deal of weed, and strong scent of the same. Average current from Equator to Cape Guardafui was N. 85° 3(y £., 128 miles in five days, or 25*6 miles daily. *' From the strong northerly currents said to be experienced between Guardafui and Sokotra, sweeping vessels &r to leeward at times, determined to steer for Bas Hafdn, and run along the land from thence to Guardafui, and by shortening sail a little the night previous, managed to make it at daylight on the 18th. Some precaution is here necessary from the uncertainty and strength of the currents, and the hooked form of the cape ; a ship might get embayed at night without seeing the headland, which has been the case in some instances. Had a fresh Monsoon while running along the land, which here forms a deep bight up to Bas Banneh. This cape we had on our beam at 2 f.m ., distant four leagues ; at 7 f.m. abreast of the Cape Guardafui, distant 6 miles, easily distinguishable. Steering along due north, by 10 p.m. had ran beyond the distance of Cape Asir by log, and as the high land of Guardafui was fast receding from view, nothing to be seen in the western direction, concluded we were in a position to steer N.W. ; took in first reefs, expecting it to be squally on hauling under the land ; in a short time began to shoal our water— by the lead kept constantly going — and on having 15 fathoms hauled out again to eastward of north, and could now see with the night-glass, but very indistinctly, a low deceiving point about N.N.W. " I cannot account for this, having ran more than the distance between the capes, otherwise than that a counter-current probably exists in-shore, making very great precaution necessary in rounding those capes at night-time, for the deceptions appear- ance of the land here would deceive and lead any one astray. The lead, and nothing but the lead, can positively be trusted to, and must not be neglected be the night ever so clear. At midnight had &irly rounded, and, contrary to expectations, the fresh wind fell away to a calm about 2 A.]f ., and continued until near noon ; the 10th, got a light breeze and hauled in-shore, for Bas Met; from hence had very light and variable airs, with a slight favourable current, by keeping at a moderate distance from land, but found it most tedious up to Burnt Island, and were a little surprised at not having the strong gusts spoken of by Horsburgh, who recommends, and very properly so, to have all best canvas bent in the months of June, July, and August. However, we had yet to learn this by bitter experience, when lulled asleep by the recent calms and light winds ; as the wind got to the westward it came off the land at night. " On the 24th of June stood off from Burnt Island ; in standing over, the wind in- creased and became more favourable ; carried a great press of canvas across, and on the morning of the 26th expected to have been abreast of Cape 'Aden, but nothing to be • Naut Mag., 1847. Digitized by LjOOglC 392 ON MAKING *ADEN. seen at daylight ; and on having sights, to our dismay^ found we were fifty miles to the eastward : it now fell calm, found the current running not less than three knots to the eastward ; at once concluded it to he useless to attempt beating up on this side. A fast barque which fetched into 'Aden Front bay about the same time was ten days beating round into Back bay, within the sound of the morning and evening gun the whole time ; she lost kedge and warp, and on entering the harbour at night- time grounded on the mud flat which lines the northern and eastern part of the harbour, and had to be lightened before she hove off. Another ship making to leeward at the same time stood across again to the African side, and fetched 'Aden on the eighth day. " We stood over again and fetched in with the coast of Africa, far to the eastward of Burnt Island; now found the winds constant and strong from the S.W. to W.S.W., and to come off about midnight in sudden and very violent hot gusts, to which we could show but very little canvas ; working to the westward of Burnt Island. In standing over there came one of those tremendous gusts, blowing the clews out of the reefed sails (being all ' preventered' and ' stoppered'), and raised such a sea, we were glad to get under the land for shelter and bend other canvas ; intending to have anchored under Bamt Island, but could not find sufficient shelter, the wind being at west, along the land ; stood off and on under the lee till we shifted sails. There is a good passage between the island and the main land ; but we observed some shoal water about 1^ mile from the coast, and tacked pretty close to it. " The seamen now began to complain of excessive thirst, and I was obliged to increase their allowance (although short), from the air being impregnated with sandy particles in the hot winds ; indeed, all began to feel it very acutely. While under Bui*nt Island, searching, without success, for the watering-place, the gusts that came off were literally as though they came out of a furnace. Notwithstanding what is hero narrated of our troubles in the passage up the coast, some vessels, a few days ahead, made the passage from (jruardafui to 'Aden in eight or ten days without difficulty, and apparent ease, the winds being favourable and moderate, the moon, then in the last quarter, having apparently great influence on the winds and weather in this gulf. " Working alongshore until off Ras Kurrum, or about 60 miles to windward of Burnt Island, we experienced those heavy gusts which come off about midnight, but took especial care to* be under double reefs and reefed courses before that time. Stood over from thence, and fetched to windward with ease, although a heavy sea. The day previous to making Cape 'Aden, came suddenly into green water (from the deep sea blue), and the edges very clearly defined ; had a cast of the lead, but found no soundings. " On the 4th of July made Jebel Shamshan (the high land off Cape 'Aden), bearing N.N.E. ; stood on under all sail, breeze decreasing to a calm as we approached the high land, a short sea heaving us in ; anchored in 10 fathoms, sand. Round Island, or rock, bearing N.E. 1|- mile ; afterwards, in endeavouring to avail ourselves of a light air, got too close in, with the heave of the sea, and obliged to anchor in 6 fathoms for the night ; veered to 60 fathoms, much closer to the rocks than agreeable, with the heavy sea tumbling in. (There was no light-vessel at this time.) In the morning ran in with the sea-breeze, and anchored in about 4 fathoms, sand, a quarter of a mile from the Coal Depots ; moored N. W. aud S.E. 40 fathoms each way, which is not too much for a heavy ship in the westerly Monsoon, as the squalls at times are heavy, with a little swell, — and the sudden sand squalla also tlmt come igi ize y g ON MAKING 'ADEN. 893 oocasionaUy from the northward and eastward, after very sultry weather, give but little warning, raising a dense blaok mass, and in half an hour, or less, burst upon you, covering and filling every crevice with sand. It is requisite to secure every hatch, skylight, and door, to keep it out, and to have all awnings furled, for while the squall lasts, or the pillar of sand is passing, you cannot discern a single object out of the ship. Had three or four during the time we lay there ; in some cases, two or three vessels drove and fouled each other, not having sufficient scope on their outer anchors. In reference to the approach to the harbour from the westward during the South- west MoMoon, the land is easily distinguished by the Jebel Hasan, with the Asses' Ears and Sugarloaf on the west, and Jebel Shamshan over Cape 'Aden on the east. I would recommend keeping the western land aboard, and having the harbour open, by steering in upon a N.E. by N. to N.N.E. coarse, so that should it fall calm, you can safely anchor ; and with the lightest air, will drive in with the swell. The whole of the forgoing remarks are applicable only to the western Monsoon. In the north-east Monsoon, of course, ships take the eastern passage, to fetch Guardafui ; from thence there can be no difficulty, only taking care not to make the Arabian coast, as it is a lee shore, until up with Cape 'Aden. Back Bay anchorage is then perfectly smooth; but the egress from thence to the eastward is very tedious ; and long passages may be anticipated (five and six weeks) at times, to Bombay,— and even more from October to March and April." Cii^T. E. G. Dent, of the. Cambridge, in 1859, made the following observations on the same subject, viz., the passage to 'Aden daring the period of the S. W. Monsoon :*— " After roundmg the Cape of Good Hope, the passage through the Mozambique Channel is to be recommended during the N.W. Monsoon ; besides having the wind free, and comparatively smooth water, it enables ships to call at Johanna — which is easy of access, and the charges are light — fill up water casks and obtain a supply of fresh meat, vegetables, and live stock, at a low rate ; these being scarce and dear at 'Aden at times. " After crossing the Equator, it is prudent to make the land before getting into the latitude of Has HaMn, as the current sets strongly toward the island of Sokotra ; in passing, found the current setting to the north-east, sixt}'- three miles in twentj^- foar hours. After rounding Cape Guardafui and Cape Felix (Bas Filuk), the coast should be worked along well in-shore (where the current will be found favourable), to at least ten miles to windward of Burnt Island, before standing over to 'Aden. Many shipmasters, in their anxiety to make a quick passage, often make a long one by standing over too soon, — for on approaching the north side the wind decreases, the current becomes adverse and strong, and if 'Aden cannot be reached it is useless to attempt beating up on the Arabian side. The African shore must be made again, and navigators who are compelled to do this will find themselves a long way to lee- ward of their original starting-point. Many have been a month on the passage from Cape Guardafui to 'Aden from the above cause, when by going further to windward, five or six days would have sufficed. In beating up from Cape Filuk to Burnt Island, it is well to be in-shore about sunset, as the wind hauls more to the south- ward, and remains so till about two o'clock in the middle watch, when it backs to the south-west Attention to this enables a ship to make a long favourable reach. • Mer. Mar. Ma?^ vol. vi. p. a. Digitized by L^OOg IC SM MAEALLEH. " The high land of 'Aden is bo oonspionons that it cannot be mistaken. The town of 'Aden is on the eastern side, bnt ships discharge coals in 'Aden Back bay (Bander Tuwayyi'), on the west side, the entrance to which is between the high land of 'Aden and the Asses' Ears on the land to the westward. Ships may ran in, keeping nearest the 'Aden side, until they sight the light-vessel, on arriving near which the pilot generally comes alongside and directs to a berth for discharging. If calling for letters or refreshments only, the light-vessel, bearing from E. to E.S.E., half a mile distant, is a good berth, in 5 fathoms. Bock stone is supplied for ballast, and placed alongside at two shillings per ton." MAKALLEH. Makalleh, the principal commercial dep6t on the south coast of Arabia, is con- structed on a narrow rooky point projecting about half a mile into the sea, with a bay on each side of it. The Kakib's (or governor's) house is in Lat. 14P 13' 40^' N., Long. 4^ 3' 20"' E., is situated almost directly beneath a curious and remarkable oblong hill, the circubr top of which rises above the summit of a steep cliff, com* manding a complete view of the town, and on which six square towers have been erected for its protection. A ship in want of supplies will find Makalleh the best port on the coast fA the purpose of renewing her stock. Persons should be careful to send their own casks on shore for water, as otherwise the people are likely to bring it off in quite a brackish state ; it is conveyed in skins, which women fill and donkeys transport from a well nearly 2 miles West of the town ; yet notwithstanding the trouble of obtaining it, they do not render it expensive. Firewood, bullocks, sheep, fowls, eggs, and vegetables are to be procured in abundance. The Bay of Makalleh may be said to extend from B4b Buriim to R&s Makalleh. Owing to the promontory on which the town is situated projecting from the centre of a large concavity on the coast, two small bays are formed. Of these, the lesser, or western one, is the general anchorage for boats. This is merely a small nook, with 1, 2, and 3 fathoms, having Makalleh to the eastward, and a reef to the westward (nearly dry at low-water springs), extending ^ a mile from the shore. The eastern small bay is seldom or never used, owing to a swell which rolls in with considerable violence during the N.E. Monsoon, causing a surf on the beach. The bank of anchoring soundings round the Bay of Makalleh extends for about half a mile from the shore, until off the low sandy beach running towards Fuwah, when it increases to nearly one mile. The great Bay of Makalleh (in which are the two smaller ones, known as the eastern and western) is sometimes affected by a swell rolling in, when the wind blows strong outside ; but, generally speaking, the breeze falls off towards night, and the swell goes down. A vessel can lie here with perfect security during the N.E. Monsoon. The weather in this bay is exceedingly warm during the middle of the day, and on shore intolerable. Occasionally, however, land and sea breezes, with slight showers, seem to pour a refreshing influence c^er the scene in the months of October, November, March, and April, and often in Juno and July. Digitized by LjOOQ IC KUBITAN MUEIYAN ISLANDS. 896 The natives eay that in the S.W. Monsoon the wind blows home with very great force ; but always as the snn declines the breeze and swell decrease, and that often during the morning it blows strong enough from the N.W. to carry a ship clear out to sea. They also say that a vessel with chain cables might ride out the Monsoon with safety ; which is probably true, otherwise (judging by comparison), one half of Makalleh town would very soon be demolished, as the houses are, for the most part, ereoted in a careless and slatternly style, on a projection which necessarily receives the whole benefit of the S.W. winds, and their inevitable fate must be a general sweep into the waters beneath them, whereas they still quietly retain their separate stations. AncHorage. — ^The anchorage off the town is good, in 8 to 10 fathoms water, sandy bottom, with the flagstaff off the governor's house bearing N.N.E., distant a quarter to half a mile from the shore. The only danger in the bay is the reef and sunken rock to the westward of the boat anchorage, and which must be carefully avoided. The flood sets S.W. mas Mftkalleli is a low neck of land prqjecting about 2 miles in a S.S.E. direc- tion from the base of the hills, which here extend from the interior dose down to the shore. Three-quarters of a mile W.N.W. of the cape is E4s Marb&t, with a ruined fort; and 1^ miles to the N.W. lies the town of Makalleh. To the southward of the cape, distant one-third of a mile, is a rocky shoal with only 4 fathoms . water on it, there being 18 fathoms between it and the cape, and 40 fathoms dose outside of it. The bank of soundings extends about 2 miles from the cape. The sea along the whole of this coast is remarkable for its clearness, the bottom being plainly visible — when calm and the water smooth — in from 12 to 16 fathoms. When the Palinurus was lying at Makalleh, anchored in 12 fathoms, a new coil of deep-sea lead-line accidentally fell overboard and sank, but was plainly seen at the bottom. An Arab seaman belonging to the vessel went down with a sounding lead attached to his feet, and recovered it without any difficulty. KUBIYAN MURIYAN BAY AND ISLANDS. Xvriaraa MiirljrAii Bay is an extensive concavity of the Arabian coast formed between Bds Ntis to the S.W., and K4s Sherbed&t to the N.E.— being 68 miles wide by 26 in depth, having on the outer edge of the bank of soundings &ye islands, called the Kuiiyan Muriy4n. The soundings in the bay are regular, varying from 20 to 40 &thoms, decreasing towards the shore and islands ; bottom of sand, coral, and shells, but occasionally rocky near the islands, and off £as Karwdti, a bluff projecting headland 800 feet high, 2 miles W. of Bas Sherbedat. The coast line wiUiin the bay presents a succession of limestone cliffs generally fronted by a sandy beach. B&s Nus, in Lat. 17° 12^ N., Long. 65° 14' E., is a low rocky but prominent point, which may be easily known by a mountain, 1200 feet high, immediately over it, the highest and steepest part being towards the sea. B4s Sherbed4t, in Lat. 17° 5Si' N. Long. 66° 20^ E., is a steep, projecting head- land, flat on the summit, but the face of the bluff is considerably convex. Within the great bay of Kuriydn Muriy&n there are several small bays and an- chorages, separated sometimes by low rooky or sandy points, sometimes by bluff 396 KUBITAN MURIYAN ISLANDS. projecting headlands ; bat there are no yillages, and only a few inhabitants, who are generally ready to assist in proooring wood and water. to which ships have occasionally resorted for guano, are five in number — namely, Hdsikf, S6dah, Hull&nfyah, Kibliyah, and Kirzdut (or Rodondo). The first four are on the edge of the bank of soandings, and lie nearly parallel with the north shore of Euriyau Muriy&n bay, from which they are distant about 22 miles. The shores are generally bold and rocky, and the hills rise in the interior into irregular conical peaks. WatlM, the westernmost island of the group, is nearly 1^ mile long by } of a mile wide ; and 500 feet high near its southern point, in Lat. 17^ 27i' K., Long. 65^ 36' £. The surface is quite white with the guano, and it is without a vestige of tree or shrub. The island is rocky all round, but there arc two small indentations of the coast on its eastern side. The only danger off the island is a rock \ a mile S.W. by W. i W. from the N. W. point ; it is 150 yards long, and dries at low water ; the channel between this rock and the island has 16 fathoms water. Round the island the average depths are from 25 to 30 fathoms at a mile distance from shore ; but the edge of the bank of soundings passes near the south point, where no bottom is found at 145 fathoms half a mile from it. Sodalif the second island of the group from the westward and the second lai^^est in size, is 3 miles long by 2 miles wide, and lies 12 to 13 miles from H&siki. Its shape is oblong, and the surface is an irregular slope from the central peak 1310 feet high, near the summit of which is some grass. The coast has many small pro- jecting points, off which reefs extend from 100 to 300 yards, forming coves for small vessels or boats ; and at the east end is entirely lined with rocks. On the south side of the island there is u small bay, ^ a mile wide at ita entrance, and about } of a mile deep, with good anchorage, having 10 fathoms water in the centre, decreasing as the shore is approached. A ledge of rocks extends 500 to 600 yards from the eastern point of the bay, in a S.W.-ly direction, and there w a sunken rock at a short distance from the western point. This bay affords shelter from all winds, except from W.S.W. to S. Bftiiffer. — ^Half a mile west of the S. W. point of the island is a sunken rock, surrounded by a bank, with 2 and 3 fathoms water on it, between which and the shore is a narrow but safe channel, having 5 and 6 fathoms water in it. The soundings round S6dah are generally deep, 20 to 30 fathoms being found close in, between the east and north points ; from the north to. the west point 20 to 30 fathoms a mile off; 40 fathoms a mile off the S.W. side; and the edge of the bank passes f of a mile from the south side, there being 130 fathoms at that dis- tance. The bottom is sand and rocks on the east and west sides of the island; sand, shelb), and coral on its north side, and grey sand on its N.W. side. Off the S.E. side, between this island and Hullanfyah, the bank extends southwards, but deepens suddenly from 33 fathoms. The highest peak of Sddah is in Lat. 17° 29J' N., Long. 55° 51f ' E. At the S.E. point, near a ivell, the water of which is brackish, are the remains of a few huts. The channel between Hdsiki and Sddah is safe, with the exception of a sunken rock off the west side of Sddah. On a line drawn from the north side ofHJMifLio KUBIYAN MUBIYAN ISLANDS. 397 the north side of S<5dah, the depths are from 35 to 40 fathoms ; to the sonth of that line the soundings suddenly deepen off the bank. Bnllanlyalit the largest island of the group, is 7$ miles long by 4^ miles wide, and nearly 20 miles in ciroumference; it lies 4^ miles to the eastward of S6dah. The general aspect of the island is rugged, and the centre consists of numerous peaks (the highest 1503 feet above the sea) forming a cluster of irregular pillars : the eastern and western ends of the island terminate in comparatively low points ; but the north end is a bold, projecting bluff, 1645 feet in height, being the loftiest part of the island, and presents a rugged and nearly perpendicular face to the sea for upwards of a mile on each side of the cape. The whole island is extremely barren, the largest and only tree being the tamarisk ; there is a little grass on the eastern side. The western point of the island is called by the Arabs Ras Shatt, by the islanders Er^khi Frahunt ; the eastern point is Bus Sai'r ; and the northern point, called Ras Hullaniyah (or £r6kh-er-rahfb) is steep-to — there being 12 and 13 fathoms water close to the cliff. The N.E. bluff of Hullaniyah is in Lat. 17° 32}' N., Long. 56° ^' E. The edge of the bank of soundings is about 2 miles south of the island, beyond which distance there is no bottom at 140 fathoms. Ghubbet Er-rahfb is a bay on the N.E. side of the island, 3f miles wide from point to point, and 1^ miles deep, formed by Ras HuMniyah on the N.W. and R&s Sair un the S.E. ; there is good anchorage here in from 7 to 14 fathoms water, and good shelter from all winds between S.E. to N.W. round by S. and W. Bftiifera. — Several shoals and rooks extend to the distance of 2 miles off the west end of the island, and have between them narrow channels of from 5 to 10 fathoms. One of these rocks f of a mile from the point, dries at low-water springs. Off Ras S^, and for 2^ miles to the S.W., the coast is fringed with rocks, extending in some places half and three-quarters of a mile from the shore. One-third of a mile S. by E. of the south point of the island is a small bank, having 3^ fathoms water over it; and in the bay to the westward of the point is a reef of rocks close to the shorci ^ Although the distance between Hullanfyah and S6dah is 4^ miles, yet the safe channel is on the S6dah side, since the rocks lying off the western end of HuUuofyah reduce the width of the channel to 2^ miles. There are 12 to 20 fathoms water in the clear channel ; and the east side of S6dah, though rocky, may be safely ap-i preached to within half a mile. Tides. — ^The ebb sets through the channel northwards, but is much influenced by the sunken rocks. Water. — ^There is a well of fresh water about 400 yards from the beach, in the centre of the valley turning westward, abreast of a small nook with a sandy beach, which may be known by a small peak that forms its eastern end ; this nook is situated one mile to the westward of the east end of the long sandy beach, in the centre of the bay. Two other wells are situated towards the western end of the island — one northwards, and the other southwards. The anckoTftge is 600 to 800 yards off shore, in 10 or 12 fathoms, sandy bottom, abreast of a small sandy nook, 1^ miles west of two conspicuous sand-hills, which are about 2^ miles east of the western point of the island, and visible at a distance of 10 or 12 miles. It is open to all winds from East through North, to West. 898 KUEITAN MUEITAN ISlANDS. Vessels anchoring here most therefore he prepared to start at a moment's warning, the heldts, or northerly winds, setting in very suddenly, when the coast hecomea a dead lee shore. Hull4niyah is the only inhahited island of the group, and the few people who liye on it dwell in huts on tiie N.W. side of the island, ahout one-third of a mile from the heaoh. They chiefly suhsist on the fish they catch ; hut a few native hoats occa- sionally touch here, on passing, and generally exchange small and useful articles for dried fish. MXBiarAMt the eastern island, and third largest of the group, is nearly 2 miles long and 1^ miles hroad ; but it is merely a barren rock, rising into several peaks, one of which is 650 feet high, and in Lat. 17^ 29i' N., Long. 66° 191' E. The island is rocky all round, with the exception of a small sandy bay at the N.W. point. Like Hosikf it is white with the guano deposited by birds. Bwiffer. — ^A small and dangerous rock, even with the surface of the sea at low water, bears from Kibllyah £. by S., 3| miles distant. Vessels should be careful in rounding the island at night, as the soundings are a bad guide, and the breakers on the rock are not always visible. Within a few yards of the rock are the following cross bearings : Four Peaked Bock in one with the north end of KibHyah, and Well Bock on with the south end of Hull4nfyah. Between the rock and the island the least water is 9 fathoms ; the edge of the bank of soundings is 1| miles south of the rock, 2 miles north, and 2} miles east The channel between Hulidnlyah and Kibliyah is 12} miles wide, with from 20 to 46 fathoms water, and perfectly free from all dangers, except dose to the islands. romt 9BAXBB &OCK, BO named from its outline, lies two-thirds of a mile W.N.W. from the north point of Kibliyah, with a rocky channel between them of 3 to 3 fathoms. It is about 100 feet high, and has a rocky ledge extending from it half a mile to the N. W., on which there are four small rocks dry at all tides } several parts of the reef are also dry at low-water springsi WBXt& SOCIC— so called from is salt-water well— lies 800 yards S.S.W. from the S. W. part of Kibliyah ; there is a cliannel between them of from 7 to 10 fathoms water. XZlULaWST, Kirz&ut, or Bodondo, 6^ miles N.E. by E. from the north point of Hulldniyah, is the smallest island of the group $ it is a mere rock, with a double peak, the highest of which rises to 230 feet above the sea, and is visible 25 miles } the point to the eastward is low. The only dangers off this island are two sunken rocks, one about 300 yards to the West of it, and the other 150 yards to the N.W., with a channel between them of from 8 to 16 fathoms water. Close off the east point of the island are two rockd above water. On all other bearings the island is Safe to itpproach, 20 fathoms ^ater being found within 600 yards of its shore. TIdttai— On the north side of ,the islands the flood sets td the westward^ and on the south side to the eastward* CtXBRBNT.— Between B4s FartAk and B&s Nds the current oflen runs ngainit thfe ikind, during the N.E. Monsoon *, amongst the Euriydn Muriy&n islands the direc- tion is uncertain, but it frequently sets to the north-westward, rendering it unsafe If becalmed near them. Digitized by LjOOQIC W. COAST OF INDIA—KABACHI. 899 mAS-^AX-saB; — The N.E. pobt of Arabia is in Lat. 22° 32f' N., Long. 59° 48' E. ; it is a very low sandy point, having near it a few date trees— and the little town of Al-Hed, lying 1 mile south-west of it; a spit runs from the point nearly 300 yards. To the north of this cape no soundings are to be obtained when more than half a mile from the shore ; to the east the bank of soundings extends about 3 miles, and the 20-fathom8 line is 1 mile off shore. This bank is famous for large fish. 01iaUeac«r Bank.— On August 9th, 1830, at 1.30 F.U., discoloured water, with ripplings, was observed from H.M.S. Challenger, in 22° 29^ N., and about 40 miles east from Bas-al-Hed. On sounding, two casts of 13 fathoms water were obtained, and soon after no ground at 65 fathoms, the sea having resumed its natural colour. The bank appeared 3 miles long by half a mile broad. Having been observed so shortly after noon, the position given is probably correct The Falinurue, while surveying the coast, made diligent search for it, but without success. WEST COAST OF INDIA. KARACHI. JtAMACaXi on the sea coast of the Indus valley, is the nearest safe port to the Persian Gulf, and the only land-locked harbour between Bombay and the Red Point* at the west side of entrance to the harbour (and on which is the lighthouse), is in Lat. 21° 47' 21" N., Long. 66° 58' K. ; being a bluff 100 feet high and surrounded by low land, it is readily recognised from a distance, appearing as an island. To the N.£.-ward of Manora point, at the distance of rather more than a mile^ are the Oyster islands, situated on an extensive shoal flat having from 6 to 10 feet on it at low water* Inside Manora point and the Oyster islands is the low sandy island of Eeamari, 2 miles long E. and W., having off its southern side an ex^ tensive sandy flat, dry at lowest spring tides. Two miles beyond is the town of Karachi. ]>«p«h of 'Water on tli« Sar^ — The great difficulty at this port has always been the state of the bar, which is very uncertain. In 1852 the Duke ofArgyle (800 tons)i drawing 16 H; 9 in., crossed the bar the day preceding the lowest neap tides. In 1857 a notice was issued stating that no vessel drawing more than 18 feet should be sent to Karachi ; and in 1860 the Fort officer (Mr. E. Giles) published the following as the state of the bar : — " 8.W. Monsoon season, May to September, — Spring tides, 22 ft. to 28 ft. 6 in. j neap tides 10 ft. to 18 ft; **Fine season, October to Aprih^^^rmg tides 20 ft. td 21 ft. 6 in. j il^ap tides, 19 ft. to 18 ft^ Ships may load. ** From September 15M to April 16th {the bar being generally smooth), — Spring tides, 19 ft 6 in. ; neap tides, 18 ft. '' From April Ihth to the end of May, from September 16th to the ^th, periods 400 W. COAST OF INDIA. befm*e and after the S,W. Monsoon. — Spring tides, 18 ft. 6in. ; neap tideg, 17 ft. 6 in. " From June let to the middle of September, toith the average weather in the S, W, Monsoon, — Spring tides, 17 ft. ; neap tides, 15 ft. There are days daring this Monsoon when the sea on the har is so heavy that ships at the above draught could not with safety cross." Since that date great efforts have been made to improve the harbour and increase the depth of water, as the following letter (1862) from Lloyd's agent shows : — " We have the pleasure of informing you that, during the last two years, the depth of water in the eastern and deepest channel into Karachi harbour has been gradually increasing. Vessels drawing 22 ft. to 22 ft. 6 ki. can now safely load inside the harbour, leaving on the springs, during the N.£. Monsoon, say from 15th October to Ist April. During the remainder of the year, when there is more or less swell on the bar, the di'aught of ships entering and leaving harbour should not be more than 18^ feet. ** The Karachi harbour improvement works, especially the Keamari groyne, which has been run out exactly one mile in length, with a bottom breadth of 70 feet, and a top breadth of 15 feet, have already begun to have a favourable effect in deepening the channels ; this groyne has still to be carried out 2120 feet further, and will probably be completed by next May or June. There is every reason to believe that the extensive harbour improvements at present being proceeded with, will, if carried out in their entirety, be real and permanent improvements, and Uiat they will render this harbour available for ships of the largest draught at all times of the year. The amount of room in the harbour can be indefinitely increased by dredging, and the formation of floating docks." The latest information by the Indian Overland Mail, June 1865, respecting the depth of water on the bar is as follows : — " The ship China, from Glasgow, Mr. Smith, commander, crossed the bar on the 27th May, drawing 20 feet 6 inches. The least water she* had while crossing the harbour was 26 feet. This is a fact well worthy of note, as it shows that if the harbour improvements now in progress have altered the channel into this harbour and made it more tortuous, they have at the same time increased the depth of water very considerably. The largest line of battle ships can now enter the port at spring tides in perfect safety. Th« Coast of Cutofa and Sindbf and tlie Approaofa to Karachi Sar« bonr. — ^The following remarks are by Commandes Gbieye, I.N., who surveyed this part of the coast in 1848-50 : — Wind and Weather during each month : — t7a7i«ary.— Steady laud and sea breezes between N.N.W. and N.N.E. The North-easters on the coast of Sindh and Cutch frequently blow fresh for three or four days at a time. Southerly winds are rare, but the sea breeze occasionally veers to S.W. Squally weather, with rain, sometimes occurs near Karachi. February, — Winds become more variable. The North-easters less frequent, and of short duration. Sea breezes between W.S.W. and W.N.W., and towards the end of the month you may get a hard blow from the westward for two and three days, particularly on the northern part of the coast. A heavy sea always accompanies these breezes, and renders the anchorage off Karachii in the outer ro:^s,;i^e^ Digitized by^ W. COAST OP INDIA-^KABACHI. 401 March — ^Land winds become less regular. Sea breezes are generally xnoderate, between W. and N.W., but blow very hard at times, with thick, misty weather. April. — Winds much the same as last month. Weather generally hazy, with a very damp atmosphere. Swell from the westward at times. May, — ^Winds moderate, W. to W.S.W. Weather hazy, with very heavy dews. Clouds begin to gather, and much swell prevails from the westward. June^ July, and Augmt. — The S.W. Monsoon prevails, blowing moderate, and fresh breezes from W. to S.W. by W., with passing clouds and hazy weather. It becomes very cloudy as the season advances. Rain is uncertun, but may be looked for in the latter half of July ; and when it falls it is generally accompanied by variable winds and thunderstorms. A heavy swell prevails during these months. September.^Win^ light from W. to W.S.W. Squalls from the land may be expected. The weather is generally haz}-, and the Monsoon swell not quite subsided. 0(*fa6^.— Winds W. to N.W., light, with occasional calms. Land winds begin to get steady about the latter end of the month. Weather generally very clear and pleasant^ but occasionally dense fogs come off the land. Sea smooth. J^Totwflift^.— Land and sea breezes become steady, veering from W. to N.E., the land winds towards the end of the mouth often lasting two days at a time, but not very strong. Weather generally very clear, and objects visible at a great distance. Benuurkable terrestrial refraction prevails this month and the next, making distant objects appear much closer. December. — ^Winds and weather the same nearly as described for January. Korth-Easters prevail, and the weather is cool and pleasant, with a remarkably dear atmosphere. CuBBKKTB ALOKO THE KiTTiWAB CoAST.^The current during the months of November and December sets always to the N.W., from 1 to ' 1} knots per hour, but liable to checks, particularly at night, when there is sometimes a drain in the oppo- fiite direction. After the middle of January there is little or no current ; but again, from the end of March to the beginning of May, the current frequently sets to the S.£. at the rate of 12 to 20 miles per day; and tliere is no doubt that the S.E. canrent prevails along this coast throughout the whole of the S.W. Monsoon, many navigators having experienced it as strong aa 30 and 36 miles per day all along the eoast from Karachi to Bombay. BlMOtloiui Ito fli« Coavta of Siadli, and fbe Approocli to XaracU Barboor i— Vessels from Europe or from the westward, bound to Karachi, should not care to make the coast of Sindh and Cutch, or any of the contiguous land whatever, previous to sighting Karachi lighthouse; but should they do so, and find they have to beat up to Karachi, they will find the entire coast, with one or two exceptions, which are hereafter specified, a perfectly safe one to approach. From Diu head to Karachi the coast is divided into three parts : — 1. Diu head to Dwarka is the west coast of Kattiwar. 2. From Dwarka to Juckoo is the entrance to the gulf of Cntch ; and any vessel bound to Karachi, or even out of Karachi (unless bound into the gulf of Outch), ought not, on any account whatever, to go inside of a line drawn from Dwarka to Juckoo. Digitized by LjOOQIC D D 402 W. COAST OF INDIA— KARACHI. 8. To the sonihward of the Liikput river the ooftst is within the territory of Catch, and all io the northward of that river ia the coast of Sindh. The different porta on this part of the coast are veiy seldom visited by any vessels except the native craft of the ooontiy. The weat ooaat of Kattiwar runs about N.W. and S.E., with bold soundings off its entire length, ezoept a small patch of 2 to 3 fathoms extending from li to 10 miles west of Diu head. No vessel should approach this shoal under 12 fathoms, which is about 1 mile from its southern edge. The general character of the west coast of Kattiwar is low, with a sandy ridge fronting the sea. There are a few hills visible along the coast. The Barda range lies N.E. 12 miles from Porebunder, and maybe seen 25 to 80 miles off. Junaghnr hill is in 2r 81' 48" N., and 70^ 32' E., of a conical form, 3,837 feet high, with three small peaks on it, and may be seen all along the coast from Diu head to Pore- bunder. As a general rule, no sailing vessel sliould come nearer this coast than 20 fathoms by night or in rough weather; or under 12 fathoms by day, in fine weather.* Off the entrance of the gulf of Cutoh is a small patch called the Lushington shoal, liaving 8 fitthoms (or less) on it; and daring the S.W. Monsoon the sea breaks on it. There is also another shoal spot of 5i fathoms 4 or 5 miles S.W.-ward of the Lushington shoal. Great care should be taken in approaching the vicinity of the danger. From above Juckoo, the coast is pretty safe, and may be approached to within 7 fathoms, until you reach the Muneja bank. The Mimeia bank extends 6 to 7 miles off shore, from Lat. 23^ 55' N. Long. 07^ 27' £. to Lat. 24'' 11' N. Long. 67^ 15' £. It is formed by the alluvial de- posits of the river Indus, which, in 1854, was navigated by the Hi\jamree channel, but the waters have since forced their way to the southward, through the Koko- warry mouth. The western edge of the bank is very steep, having 5 fathoms at 1 mile, 8 fitthoms at 2 miles, and 10 fathoms at 8 miles' distance. The flood tide rushes with great strength, causing a high ripple, which would very probably be mistaken at night for shoal water, particularly as the muddy particles give the water a whitish and some- times a luminous appearance. During the inundation the water is frequently fresh at the mouth of the river at half ebb. The flood tides are not strong. The coast above the Muneja bank up to Karachi is very safe to approach during the fine season, and vessels may go safely into 5 fathoms by day, and 8 fathoms at night I and good anchorage is always available; but during the S.W. Monsoon months it would be prudent to avoid getting in too close, partly because there is a • COMHANDER C. G. CoxsTABLS, I.N^ jxdAw date Bombsy, June 22nd. 1868. writes at fbUows respecting the loM of the Lord Raglan, by strHdng on a rock off Mongarol :— '* I write to inform you that the ship waa wrecked by mn&ing ashore on the Kattiwar coast, aboat 6 miles 8.E. of Mangaro). The coast ia low and IcTel, of a brown colour, and it is seldom you can see it at night, but the bank of soundings extends a great distance bff it« and the lead is the best guide when standing in towards the coast by night:— 20 fkthoms is 10 miles off; 10 fkthoms is ekMS to the shore, for it is a bold coast It is perfectly free from shoals or rooks, except a narrow rocky shoal dose to the westward of Diu head, distant from the shore 1 to 1^ miles, which should not be approached under 13 Ikthoms. Digitized by LjOOQ IC ctne most urgent necessity, should yesaela ftnchor on the coast to the Southward during; the S.W. Monsoon. * Sinee the beginning of 1857, the ship Admiral Boxer hts been toUll/ iMt on the Indoi btnki. The ships Thcmat CangfbeU snd Augusta, with the steamer Pionttr^ h«Te grounded on them, but were eTentnaUy flosted olT. Two large troop steamers hare also, is th« same period, touched on them. \ D D 2 404, W. COAST OF INDIA— KARACHI. Vessels making the Lighthouse should always eudeavour to come within signal distance hefore dark ; hut if not uhle to do so to keep standing ofF and on till day- light ; they should endeayour to pick up the Filot-hoat without delay if she displays a Pilot Jack, for when she does so it is to intimate that there is no time to be lost to save the tide ; but in picking up the Pilot, no vessel should run down to the Eastward further than to bring the lighthouse to bear North. Uriit.— The lighthouse at ll(anora point exhibits k fixed white light at an eleva- tion of 120 feet above high water, visible 16 miles, but frequently during the haxy weather of the S.W. Monsoon not more than from 7 to 10 miles. For coming into the harbour, vessels should have all the fore and aft sails that belong to them bent, and their hawsers on deck, with everything ready for laying out a kedge anchor. In consequence of the tides being irregular, persons are apt to be out in working them, therefore a red burgee at the yard-arm of the flagstaff will signify that it ia flowing, and when at the mast-head that it is high water ; a burgee at the yard-' arm will signify that the tide is ebbing, and when at the mast-head that it is low water. . leaving KMwi»ehi in fli« S.'VT. iSoiiaoan. — ^Bound out in the S.W. Monsoon, it would be advisable to work to the W.S.W.-ward into about 16 fathoms or lOmiies to windward of Manora before stretching to the South, for, although a vessel might lay along shore direct from the entrance of the harbour, she might get into diffi- culties by the wind falling light, and the tide and S.E. current setting her in towards the mouths of the Indus ; in passing the Hujamree and Muneja banks, which ex- tend fisomLat. 23^ 56' to 24'' lO', and Long. 67^ 12', she should not be in less than 20 fathoms, or more than 2 to 4 miles east of the meridian of Manora. The S.W. Monsoon does not blow strong generally on the coast of Sindh, the wind at times is variable, and generally so when it rains, which is mostly in July. The navigator is cautioned to be careful about anchoring anywhere on this coast if there is any sea on ; it would be much more advisable to keep under way. If bound to Bombay, it is as well to know that a line from Din head to Bombay lighthouse is the 20-fathom line; so that a vessel, by her lead and soundings alone, could make Bombay from the northward, by simply keeping in the 20-fathom line. In 1862, Captain L. Bilton, acorrespondent of the Mercantile Marine Magazine, gave the following information I'especting Xiuraolii i — " I reached Bombay on August the 25th, and lay there a fortnight, but finding freights low, and my owners having a valuable ship loading at a very low rate, I considered it advisable to look out for other than home employment, and chartered to proceed to Karachi to load a cargo of salt for Calcutta. I had, however, now lost the opportunity of making a quick passage thither, as the S.W. Monsoon wa-s over. I experienced nothing but light baffling winds from N.W., with a lee-current, and did not reach that port till the 5th October, making 28 days' passage from Bombay j however, I should have been in no way advanced by arriving earlier, as, owing to the heavy and protracted rains, the salt was so wet as to be unfit for shipment. "Karachi is a new and highly favoured port, with all sorts of public works and improvements in progress— the harbour being dee|>ened, wharves and docks being built, piers andTailways projected, with the determination, apparently, of making it W. COAST OF INDIA— KARACHI. 405 a first class place of trade. I was close to Manora point at daybreak, and soon had a pilot on board — their residence in jnst inside .the point, at Manora village, and on a gun being fired, one is always ready to come out. Crossed the bar at high water— on which is 18 to 19 feet at neaps, and 22 feet at springs-^and moored abreast of the village with 35 fathoms of cable each way. Mooring-buoys are to be laid down here, and they will be a great advantage to large ships not intending to proceed further up than Manora. Smaller vessels go to Keamari, a village two miles further up, where the Custom-house is at present situated, and whence various descriptions of carriages ply for hire to Karachi, about 2 miles further still, or to the camp three miles ofi*. *' Karachi is built at random and without any apparent plan — every one planting his house on the spot that best suits his convenience ; the native town, like all others of its class, has nan-ow dirty streets, and houses with windows like pigeon-holes. The roads are excellent, there being plenty of good stone in the vicinity. A long bund runs throagh a low, swampy salt-marsh, from Keamari to Karachi, having rails laid down on it for a projected railway. When the new Custom-house (of stone) is finished, the present temporary one (of bamboo) will be abolished ; here, Mr. P. Dalzell is collector, police magistrate, municipal commissioner, and I know not what besides, in his own person. " The offices of the European merchants are mostly at Karachi, and are magnificent stone edifices, with extensive warehouses (or godowns) surrounding them. A large and increasing trade in grain, seeds, cotton, gums, wax, dates, salt, &c., is carried on. A well-built wharf is in a very advanced stage, extending from a column marking the spot where Genebal Sib Chablbs J. Nafieb embarked when leaving. Sindh (which fact it records) to the town ; it is nearly half a mile in length, and joins a railway which runs to Hyderabad, and is already in full operation. Here the native crad discharge and load, and representatives of most of the countries in the East may be seen jostling each other. There are also no less than three steam companies engaged in tlie navigation of the river Indus, who are fitting out an immense number of vessels both at Manora and Keamari to develope the trade. It is a busy place, and no doubt will one day be a port of great consequence, from its position- more particularly if the Euphrates Valley railway is carried out. " Manora is the Brighton of Karachi — or rather will be— where the inhabitants resort for change of air ; it is well adapted for bathing, and is cool and pleasant firom its vicinity to the sea ; there is, however, a scarcity of houses and general accommo- dation at present Point Manora is a high blufi*, on which is the lighthouse, with a good fixed light, visible 16 to] 18 miles off; but the whole point is rapidly wasting away, and will in time be only a sandy spit. The Oyster rocks, ibrming the eastern side of the entrance, are also fast crumbling away, owing to the action of the heavy sea in the S.W. Monsoon, and the soft sandy nature of the rock of which they are composed ; there are two perforations through them — one of which I have often pulled through in a boat. The northernmost of the rocks is the resort of innumerable fiocks of birds, which build their nests and hatch their 3*oung in security in holes in the rock. It is intended to run a pier from Keamari to join these rocks, with a view to deepening the channel — which is quite practicable, the foundation being a stiff clay. It is supposed the current will then alter or completely remove the present bar — which is a very bad one, particularly during the S.W. Monsoon, at which period no ship drawing more than 17 teet should attempt to enter the port; but in i06 W; COAST OP INDIA— KARACai. ihe fine seasoD, dnrin^ the S.^^ MonMOfm, ai nhx^ mbaj safely cross at springs, draw- ing 21 to 22 fleet. Tk^ Collectpr of Customs, Master Attendant, and other govern- aoent officials reside sit Manora^.and transact business there; the houses of the pilots are also down near the shi{>pi4g> which is very convenient. A medical gentleman resides at Manora^ ind attetidslihe shipping, but there is not much sickness. '' I loaded inside to 19 feqi, and filled up outside the bar. Manora point at N.E. i £., 1^ miles off, whichr,linchorage is quite safe during the N.E. Monsoon. " Supplies of evely kind are cheap and good. Abundance of turtle may be procured on the beach to tht north of Manora, and my Jacks, though hard at work all day, loading salt, never thought it ^he least hardship to range four or five hours every night to catch thenu-^in this^i I too was very successful ; there are also plenty of fine oysters to be g;ot. Glame abounds in the neighbourhood, and can be bought very reasonably, fhere is, however, a great lack of trees, and the country looks barren in oonsequetitie. " I left on the Slat November— having been 12 days on demurrage— deeply laden with salt; and on^ 26th ^ra^as off Bombay, having accomplished in four days the distance it took me twentj-fivd to get over, going to Karachi." Captain BivroVf writing Ugain in May, 1863, says:— " I arrived off the bar of Karachi on the 4>th of May, and though near the top of springs, found there was but<80 feet water now at the very highest tides. The old deep-water eastern ohAnnel is now completely filled ; and the western (formerly the shoalest) is at present th6 only available passage — through which no vessel above 17 feet can proceed during thto south-west Monsoon, and then at a great risk without steam. "I found several iihips lightening outside the bar, having been detained several days, and paying 2s. per hogsliead for beer being landed. I lay there two days, and could not get a boat off; when I had a consultation with the port officer and senior j^ot, and finding tb^re was just the ship's draught on the following day, I determined to attempt it, as the obstructicm is only about 20 feet broad, and loose sand ; and on the 7th, at high water, made a dash at the bar, and went safely over without a bump, the sea being quite smooth, and moored off Manora, in about the same bertli I occupied two years ago. However, even then my troubles wera not over, as I had not room to swing, and had to heave a-head to my anchor on each tide, till lightened, to avoid tailing on the eastern bank, drawing 19 feet 8 inches. The generally re- ceived opinion i8» th|kt the bar will eventually be better when the aforesaid harbour works are oompletedi and the port yet be all they anticipate. It never can, however, contain any number of ships, and large vessels should not he sent here at all during ihe eouthfoest Mbnioon. By I^argq, I mean ships exceeding 800 tons. The trade of the port is, however, rapidly increasing ; and the enterprising firm of Fleming and Co. have established cotton screws. Mooring buoys ai*e being laid down for the larger dass of shipjdng at Kemari and Manora. There is a great want of a good tug here. • <' Large crops of cotton are being grown, and as the climate is one of the finest and healthiest in th« world, I have little doubt that the country will soon a.^sunie a degrei^ of prosperity almost Unpi«cedented. All that is wanted is a small influx of European energy and tepital. The railways and Indus steamers have trebled their receipts in as many years, and a line is projected from Kotree to Moultan. •* I thought it well to give you the earliest information as to the decrease of deptk ■oaj uiana ; lonneriy cne tnree isiauue woa« 'Dyti?^db7Gongle ■^^ "^ a* \ a > "1 thought it well to gjirt yon the earliest information aa to the decrease of depth I Digitized by LjOOQ IC ' W. COAST OP INDIA—BOMBAY. 407 of water on the bar, an many people will, no donbt^be misled by the statement issued about the time I left London— viz., that they had gained 2 feet wateif additional ; now, when last here, we had 24 feet in the east channel; two additional would make 26; and Urge ships sent hither on the istrength of suoh a statement would have to endure an amount of danger, disappointment, and loss, very serious to oon- tempUte." At the entrance to the Gulf of Cutch, on the S.W. bastion of the fort of 4aTee, there is ajixed white light, viaiblo 10 miles. Position, Lat. 22° 60' 20"' N., Iiong.69°20'49"E. Between Diu head and Tan'apur harbour is the entrance to the Gulf of Cambay. Here are the dangerous Malaeoa Bfuiks« which extend from Lat. 20° 20^ to 21° 12' N. ; they run in irregular ridges from north to south, and are connected by shoal water affording no safe channel. Sutherland or the easternmost channel into the Gulf of Cambay lies between Malacca bank and the Snally bank—which extends about 2 miles from the shore of the main ; it is 3 miles wide, with depths of 12 to 17 fathoms ; at its northern end is Surat, where there is anchorage in 7 or 8 fathoms. Taptl Idgbtt at the entrance to the Tapti river, leading to Surat, is Jixed white, elevated 61 feet, and visible 10 miles. Position, Lat. 21° 6V N., Long. 72° 37i' E. The Grant, or western channel, is formed by the west edge of the Malacca banks on the one hand, and Goapnauth shoal and the shore of the main on the other ; it is 5 miles wide, and has in it depths of 10 to 20 fathoms. The northern limits of the Malacca banks should never be approached with an ebbing tide, as the shoals are very steep. There are also Jlxed white lights at Dandi, Perim island, Gogah, Deojugan or Tankaria, and Koon Bunder, higher up the Gulf of Cambay.' Between Terrapur and Bombay there is no danger, provided a ship does not approach the coast under 10 fathoms in the fine season ; but during the S.W. Mon* soon the parallel of Khundari island (say 18° 42'), at the southern entrance to Bombay harbour, ought to be made at the distance of 30 to 40 leagues from the land^ and then steer East. BOMBAY. BOmAT is the seat of government for the western presidency of British India, and the centre of an extensive commerce carried on with all parts of the world, while its trade with China exceeds that of either Madras or Calcutta. BoBibttsr lHandt about 7 miles long by 2 wide, is generally low — the sea in many parts being kept out by embankment ; but there are also two parallel ridges of sandstone hiUs running north and south — ^the most conspicuous being the western ridge, whieh terminates on the S.W. side of the ishmd in Malabar hill. From sea* ward this hill has an oblong appearance; it is covered with trees, among which are interspersed many houses (or bungalows), and near the extreme (south) point are the signal post and flag-staff. The town and fort of Bombay are at the S.E. part of the Cloee to Bombay island, and extending to the S.W.-ward nearly 2 miles, are Old W«iiuui*s and Xolaba islands, now united by a causeway, as the former is to Bombay island ; formerly the three islands were separated by narrow creeks fordable 408 W. COAST OF INDIA— BOMBAY. only at low water. The point of Kolal>a, on which the lighthouse stands, is guarded on all sides by an extensive reef of rocks, divided into prongs, — ^the most dangerous being the S,W. prong. Salsette, to the north of Bombay, and formerly an island, is now, like Kolaba and Old Woman's islands, united to Bombay island by several causeways; between the two, however, there are several creeks navigable by small crafb. In the northern part of the harbour is the island of Trambajv 4^ miles long by 3} wide, near the centre of which is Salsette hill, 1008 feet high, being the highest point of a ridge which terminates at the south extreme of the island, and from its appearance is generally known as the Neat's Tongue. At the east end of the island there is another conspicuous hill and leading mark 324 feet high, having on it the ruins of a church. Here is the entrance to the Tannah river. Cross Zsland, which from a distance resembles a haycock, lies about 1:^ miles U) the northward of the anchorage oif the town, and f of a mile from the nearest shore. A shoal projects i a mile from it to the S.W., but there is a very narrow passage between this shoal and the bank oif the main shore. Butofaer (or Ifterdewee) Zsland, nearly due S. of the Neat's Tongue, distant 2)- miles, is much larger than Cross island, from which it lies to the E.N.E.-ward nearly 3 miles ; on it are several buildings, and a tower in the centre. Near the S.E. end of the island is a large tree, which, in one with Trombay old church, leads inside Thull shoal. Slepbaata (or Ckuraporee) Island* 1^ miles due E. from Butcher island, and 2} miles S.E. from the point of the Neat's Tongue, has a conspicuous peak on its western side, which is the first isolated Jdgk land seen to the Hght of the Neat's Tongue, when appi-oachiug the harbour from the S.W.-ward. This is the island in which is the celebrated temple, with immense excavations and figures cut out of the solid rock. Klmndari and Oonarl arc two islands outside Bombay harbour, near the shore of the main land on the south side of entrance. Khundabi' Island, the highest summit of which is 120 feet above the sea, lies 2i miles from the main land opposite the village of Nagaow, and W. by N. i N. from the village of Thull, close to Thull knoll ; though small, it is covered with houses and trees, and is surrounded by a fortified wall. Large sliips should not borrow too near Khundari island in the S. W. Monsoon, as it is situated on an exten- sive flat which projects from it several miles to seaward, and over which a heavy ground swell rises, causing ships to labour very much. OoNABi Island, inside Khundari, is very low, and rather more than a mUe off the shore of the main land. Thvll. — The high land of Thull forms the S.E. boundary of Bombay haibour. Near the N.W. comer of this land is Thull Knob (180 feet high), to the S.E.-ward of which, at the distance of 3^ miles, are two peaks called the Paps. The Knob and northern Pap in one clear the Thull shoal to the northward. Car^a Zsland, 4 miles long in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, and 2 miles wide, forms the east side of the entrance to Bombay harbour ; it is generally low and woody, but near its north and south extremity are two conspicuous and remarkable hills. Great Carija hill (990 feet high), near the south end of the island, is of a tabular form, slightly convex, and has a steep declivity at each end — the northern brow having on it the ruins of a church ; it forms the third isolated high land to the W. COAST OP INDIA— BOMBAY. 409 right of the Neat's Tongue. Little Carija hill (690 feet high), near the north end of the island, is irregular in its outline, and, from seaward, resembles the elevated island (Elephanta) beyond ;. this is the second isoUted high land to the right of the Neat's Tongue. cr — m i h (or Chill) XsUuid is a large rock midway between ThuU Knob and Gary a island ; it lies on the south side of the entrance to an estuary into which the rivere Amba, Penn (or Bhogeshwuree), and Aptah (or Mehgownee), discharge their waters. Tlmll ntmOf 2 miles long N.N.E. and S.S.W., and | of a mile wide, consists of rocky patches with soil ground between ;. and having on it from 20 to 27 feet of water, with three spots of only 17 feet, and one of only 13 feet, may be considered very dangerous during the S.W. Monsoon, owing to the high sea that rolls in towards ThuU. Its centre is about 3| miles E. by N. from Thull Knob, and 2| miles from the shore of Thull Land ; and the following marks and bearings clear it on every side : — To the southward, Keyim bungalow in line with One Tree liill S.E. ; to the S.W. and west, the foot of Kamballa hill open westward of the lighthouse ; to the north- ward, Gull island open twice its breadth to the right of Carija point. In the channel between the Thull shoal and the foul ground fringing the shore of Thull there is a depth of from 27 to 30 feet, and the large tree at the E. end of Butcher's island, in line with Toorbah church ruin, N.N.E., gives a safe course through it. The foul ground of Thull shoal is very dangerous with Thull Knob bearing between £. i N. and E. by S., and it should not then be approached nearer than the light- house well open to the eastward of the range of hills at the back of Bombay — say N. i E., or Khundari island S. ^ £. Tli« 8. "V. VroBg is the name given to some rocky ground (partly uncovered at low water) on the north side of the entrance to Bombay Harbour, and stretching 2^ miles from the lighthouse in a S.W. by S. direction, but it really fonns part of an extensive mass of foul ground — ^here rock and there mud — surrounding the west, south-west, and south sides of Bombay island, and thence entering the harbour itself. The following marks and bearings dear this danger : — The outlying shoals 2^ miles west of the lighthouse must be approached no nearer than Mahalakshmi Pagoda, open west of the bungalows on Malabar hill, N.N.E. i E. ; the outer light-vessel in one with Khundari island S. by E. i E., clears the S.W. Prong on the S.W. side ; Thull Knob in one with the North Pap S.E. by E. i E. ; or Funnel hill just open of or touching the north brow of Great Carija hill E. j^ N., clears the prong to the south ; and the lefl end of Butcher's island, seen to the right of the inner light-vessel, clears the east side of the Prong. €Smr§S9i nioal* on the east side of Bombay harbour, extends 3 miles west of the S.W. point of Carija ishind, and 2 miles N.W. by W. i W. from the N.W. point of the same island : off the middle of the west side of the island at the distance of 2^ miles is a 10-foot patch ; and at the N.W. projection of the shoal is a 6-foot rocky patch. The large tree at the east end of Butcher island in one with Toorbah church ruin, N.NJS., clears Carija shoal to the westward in 27 to 30 fathoms until the lighthouse on Kolaba point bears west. The northern part of the shoal is very irregular— «teep and rocky in places, but the southern end is more even and com- posed of hard sand, ^.g.^.^^^ by L^oogie 410 W. COAST OF INDIA— BOMBAY. 1 extends 1| mile to the E.S.E.-witfdof the lighthouse, and its outer edge is marked hyt^red buoy, which bears from the lighthouse 6. 68° £., ^ cables to the southward of which is the inner light resseL Tbe Middle Ckroimd Sluwl« opposite the Apollo Bunder, is steep, and has but a few feet of water on it at low water springs when blowing hard } its S. end is marked by a hlaeh and tohUe buoy, and its N.E. end by a black buoy : the W. side of Cross ishmd, in line with Sewree fort, leads dear inside or westward of this shoal; and Cross island, open twice its breadth to the left of Sewree fort, clears it to the eaat* ward. The nagatatf moal« opposite Bombay castle, is marked by a red bnoy. IdaHta. — ^Fonr lights mark the entrance to Bombay Harbour :— (1.) At Eolaba point, the N.W. side of entnmeeb there is a li^Uiouae exlubittng a light revolving every two minutes : the lighthouse is coloured white, snd the light being at an elevation of 132 feet above high water, is visible 17 mUes. Its position is Lat 18° 63' 42" N., Long. 72° 47' 42" E. It is said that the tower is not easily discerned in daylight, being lost in the sur- rounding trees and buildings. The S.W. point of KoUba, on which the lighthouse stands, dries out at low water to the distance of 1^ mile. (2.) The Outer light-vessel, moored in 6 &thoms, lies S.8.W. 4i mUes from Kolaba point, W.N.W. 2 miles from the centre of Thull shoal, N. byW. i W., 7 miles from Eihundari island, and S.W. by S. f of a mile from the Fairway buoy : it exhibits njixed light at 36 feet above the sea, visible 9 miles. The vessel is painted red, carries a red ball at the mast head, and hoists a red flag when a sail is seen in the offing. During the night a blue light is burnt every hour, and a torch every half hour. (3.) The Inner or Sunk Bock light-vessel lies i of a mile southward of the Sunk rock, and a short distance eastward of the sonth part of the shoal on which the rock is situated | it exhibits a fixed white light ; the vessel is painted red, carries a red ball at the masthead, and hoists a red flag when a ship is seen in the offing. (4.) The Dolphin rock light is ffreen to sonth and east, white to northward, and screened to westward ; it is 20 feet high, and is visible 2 miles. A ^eorwmf Spim Mncij marks the entrance to Bombay Harbour, being south** ward of the S.W. Prongs, and N.W.-ward of the centre of Thull Shoal— equidistant from both ; it is dso about N.E. by K. ) of a mile from the Outer light-vessel. The Outer and Inner light-vessels have been known to break adrift during the height of heavy S.W. Monsoon weather. Until replaced, the Fairway buoy is the only guide to the entrance. Tides.— The flood sets into the harbour from the S^W., and ebbs out frotn the N.E. At the enkancei the stream does not set in fiur through the channel, but slants over the foul ground off Thull towards the opening leading to Penn river, and during the rains in the S.W. Monsoon, the ebb sets strong ont of that river to the westward. IMMolldtfa «d dUM^ BoMM/ HditieiiiFi— As soon as the Outer light vessel h visible on any bearing (from seaward) between N. by B. and 8.E. by S. round by East, steer directly for it ; when up with it, steer to the K.E.-ward so as to pass tiie Inner or Sunk Book light-vessel, 1 to 2 cables to the eastward ; thence steer to piss the same distance to the eastward of the Dolphin Book light ; from which make for the anchorage off the town. ^.^^.^^^ ^^ kjOOg IC W. COAST OF INDIA— BOMBAY. 411 Or, if i^ 50 niffht, after rounding the Inner or Sank Bock light, ste^ to the N.E.- ward, and anchor ahout 1 mile N.E. hj N. of it, where the water will be smooth, and there wait for a pilot. ApprOMAIttff BomHay. — ^The following directions for approaching Bombay in thick weather, are from Ltbut. W. B. Sblbt, surreyor, I. N. :— " In coming from the westward, and being at Lat. 18^ W N., a vessel will first strike soundings of 65 fathoms coarse sand, decayed coral, and broken shells, in Long. 70° 3(y £. Should, however, the latitude be doubtful, with tolerably correct longitude that point will be at once ascertained, as, on thU meridian, the depths will decrease to 51 fathoms fine sand, and even 48 fathoms fine sand, as far north as Lat. 19° 16', while 10 miles to the southward no bottom at 300 fathoms will be found. " Agam, should the latitude be correct, and longitude doubtful, 4 miles west of this meridian no bottom would be had at 300 fathomsi while 20 miles to the east- ward 47 or 48 fathoms fine red sand would be obtained. " In the parallel of 19° N., the bank extends to Long. 70° £., when the first cast would be 75 fathoms greenish sand ; and continuing to steer east 60 miles, you would cross over 50 to 51 fathoms grey sand, — at last 48 fathoms fine red sand ; and this nature of bottom would continue for 40 miles more, when you would obtain from 40 to 50 fiithoms, on a very remarkable bed of gritty mud (». e., soft mud mixed with small dead pieces of coral), and, probably, in some places, decayed coral rook or sandstone rock. '' The nature of the bottom is now such as cannot bo mistaken, and by steering S,£. about 50 miles, you will carry a line of 38 fathoms, same bottom, till you strike your first cast of from 37 to 27 fathoms coarse sand and shells ; you are then on the Northern edge of 'Direction Bank' (which I shall subsequently describe), and dis- tant from lighthouse S.W. 30 milesj or by steering E.S.E. 50 miles, you would have 30 or even 24 fathoms ooarse shells and sand, in which case you would be dis* tant from the lighthouse about 25 miles, bearing E.N.fl. '' In the parallel of 18° N., the bank of soundings extends to Long. 70° 47' £., and the first cast would be 5Q fathoms sand and shells. " Continuing to steer east, you would pass over a coral belt of 49 fathoms^ then a fiat of irom 49 to 52 fathoms fine red sand (deepening to the eastward), until, having run 60 miles, the bottom would change to mud and sand, though the depth, 52 fitthoms, is the same. Forty miles more easting will place you, with a gradual decrease of soundings, in 23 fathoms mud, from whence the water shoals graduaUy towards the coast. " About 100 miles W. by 8. from the lighthouse, in Lat 18° 35' N., Long. 71° 9' B.| is a knoll of 38 fathoms fine sand, having all round it soundings of about 50 fathoms, same nature of bottom. ** Running £. by N. from this, you will have 50, 46, and 42 fathoms, fine red sand ; and after 60 miles, 38 fathoms, on the edge of the gritty mud and decayed coral belt. "Almost due S.W. from the outer light vessel, distant 88 miles, and therefore on tlie best bearing for making the harbour in the S.W. Monsoon, is a bank of soundings, which, from its being in nearly the same position as that assigned by Horsburgh to the ' Bireotloii Mankf* I have called by that name. It extends in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction from Lat. 18° 7' to 18° 27' N., centre in Long. 72° 20^ £., having an average breadth of 7 miles^ with a depth of from 22 to 27 412 W. COAST OF INDIA— ANGRIA BANK. fathoms smaU, white, dead, biralve shelb, in pUces mixed with a little sand, and but rarely a few pieces of coral. From Lat. 18° N., and Long. 72° £., where a depth of 50 fathoms, mixed mud and sand, will be found, the soundings in running for it will gradually decrease to 30 and 26 fathoms mud, close to its outer edge : immediately inside, the depths are from 30 to 27 fathoms mud, gradually decreasing towards the land. On obtaining soundings on it, the arming of the lead will be found almos^t entirely covered with these shells, and as this is the only spot over tlie whole of the great bank off Bombay where they are found in such profusion, the navigator cannot doubt his position. A coarse may then be confidently shaped according to circum* stances, allowing for a southerly set after the middle of July ; and as the soundings decrease quite gradually in towards the land, the navigator will be warned in time, should the weather be so very thick as to prevent the land from being seen when within a reasonable distance. "From the northern part of Direction Bank, and extending as far north as Lat. 19° 20^ N., Long. 71° 40' E., is the remarkable belt which I have noted, averaging 16 miles broad, of a peculiar soil slimy mud, mixed with decayed coral, having on it from 34 to 47 faUioms, with gradually decreasing soundings of blue mud inside it towards the land. " And here I would observe that, from the very soft, unadhesive nature of the bottom of this belt, recourse must be had to other means than that of arming the lead to bring it up ; coir rope yams frapped round the lower part of it 1 found answer very well. "Although this belt extends about 50 miles in a N.W. and S.E. direction, yet a glance at the chart will show that there can be no doubt as to whether a vessel is on the northern or southern part ; it' the latter, a run to the eastward of 26 miles will cause a decrease of 17 fathoms, while, if on the northera, the same distance would not cause a greater decrease than from 6 to 10 fathoms. " In conclusion, I would observe, that although from a careful study of the chart the seaman would fix upon many other pointe whereby his position in dark weather might be known, I have in these remarks only endeavoured to draw attention to those which appeared to me of the greatest importance, convinced that in themselres they offer all that is necessary for an object which has so long been desired." Coast. — South of Bombay the coast is foul as far as Bajapur ; opposite Choul harbour (Lat. 18° 32i')f the 10-fathom line of soundings is 12 miles off shore, and» in the fair season, fishing stakes lie out in 6, 7, and 8 fathoms; on the parallel of 18° N. the 10-fathom line is 7 miles off shore. AaffHa Bank. — ^Viziadrug or Geriah Harbour flagstaff is in Lat. 16° 34' N., Long. 73° 19' E. ; west of it, at the disUnce of 64 miles, is Angria bank, extending between Lat. 16° 18' and 16° 39' ; it is of a curved form, the convex side being towards the land, whence the extremes streteh N.W. and S.W. It is about 23 miles long ; and, near the centre, 10 miles wide E. and W. The depths on it vary from 15 to 12 fiithoms, but they ai*e irregular, and though nothing less has been found there may be shoaler water : the bottom is rocky. Angria bank is steep all round ; on the landwaixl side no bottom has been found at from 50 to 100 fal Digitized by VINGORLA HOCKS— CARWAR. 413 short diBtanoe off 140 to 170 fathoms has been obtained ; 7 miles off is a cast of 116 fathoms, then 49 fathoms at 12 miles distance, thence decreasing f^adaallj to the coast. There is a very perceptible tide on the bank at springs, flood to N.E., ebb to &W., with a rise and fall of 9 feet. Off BBelnady laload, in Lat. 16^ 2* N., a large ship in passing should not come under 13 fathoms, for 11 fathoms is close to the edge of foul gfround ; about 3 or 4 miles to the northward is Kuta islet, standing H miles from tlie shore, and con- nected with it by a reef; to the southward of Melimdy island, as far as Vewtl Volntf in Lat. 16^ 56^' N., several rocks extend 3 miles off shore, making it unsafe to approach the coast. 'VlBfforto Sooks, or Burnt lalanasi — These are a group of rocky islets, the highest of which is 180 feet above the sea, but the rest are considerably lower ; many are only even with the water*8 edge ; the rocky patches connected with the islets make the vicinity of them dangerous for vessels passing in the night, on which account they should not be approached under 18 fathoms, since, on the S. and W. sides, there are 16 fathoms very close to them. They extend from the parallel of Kewti point to Lat. 16^ 62^' N., a distance N. and S. of nearly 4 miles, and have a white appearance when the sun shines on them. The channels inside the Yingorla rocks, and between them and the reefs to the northward, should never be attempted by a large vessel, for, though in several places they are sufficiently deep, they are everywhere very narrow. Coftst.'^Between Geriah and Goa, the bank of soundings is generally from 14 to 18 leagues off shore ; 6 or 7 leagues off there are 30 to 32 fathoms ; and 2 leagues off 16 to 16 fathoms. Jkffnada VolBt is the northern extremity of Goa bay ; at Aguada fort, on a hill above the landing-place, and about a mile from the outer port, there is a lighthouse 280 feet above the sea, which exhibits a Zdrbt, revolving every seven minutes, visible 12 miles ; its position is Lat. 16"^ 29' 26'' K., Long. 73"" 46' 32" E. A convenient place for watering is to bring the flagstaff and lighthouse in line (N.N.W. i W.), and anchor in 4| fathoms, at the distance of 2 cables or more from the flagstaff. St. Clemrre Zalaada, in Lat. 16° 21' N., are about S. i W., distant 8 miles from Aguada point : although there is deep water (4 to 6 fathoms) between these islands and the shore the passage should never be attempted by large vessels, for the bottom is uneven and rocky. Between Aguada Point and the St. George islands, the coast has, in many places, rocks and reefs fringing it at the distance of ^ a mile to 1 mile off shore, so that if not intending to call at Aguada (or Goa), a vessel should not come under 16 fathoms at night ; there are 14 fathoms close to the southernmost rocky islets of St. George. The high, bluff headland of Cape mamas is in Lat. 16° 6' K ; the soundings be- tween the St. George islands and Cape Ramas are regular, — as also between cape Ramas and Carwar— 6 or 7 fathoms, from 1^ to 2 miles off shore. Canrar Read and Sadaablgnr Bajr.— Carwar head, a conspicuous headland, 640 feet high, w in.Lat. 14° 48J' N., Long. 74° 6' E. The port of Carwar is to the northward of the head in Sedashigar 8aj. Great improvements have been 414 W. COAST OP INDIA— SEDASHIGUR. prqjected and are in progreet here, making a large area available for anohorage Iq both Monsoone,— building piers, wharves, Sec. The OysMr Soeks are high (160 feet), rooky, and have deep water eloee to them s from Carwar head they bear W.N.W. distant 9^ miles, and from Cape BamM S.S.E. i E. 16 miles. fttgHtt-'A temporary ./Zaitfi whit0 light has been established on the Oyster rooks at an elevation of 160 feet above the sea, visible 10 miles. The light tower is ronnd, of white granite, 40 feet high, and stands on the summit of the outer Oyster rook, in Lat. 14P 49* 15" N., Long. 74P 2' 46" E. The apparatus is to be replaced by a dioptrio one of the first order, when the light will be visible 20 miles, A sunken rook within feet on it at low water, lies between the Oyster rooks and Elephant islet, with the lighthouse bearing N.W. iN., distant 1^ miles ; Elephant islet E.S.E., 6^ oables ; and the westerxi ends of Deogur and Coormaghur' islets nearly in line about N.N.E. A red buoy marks its north-west side. Also, a shocU about 50 yards in length north and south, and 20 yards east and west, with 2^ fathoms on it at low water, over rooky bottom and shells, lies with the lighthouse bearing S.E. ^ E., distant 2^ miles ; Coormaghur islet E. i N. ; and Blaok rock N.N.E. i E. There are 10 fathoms all round the shoal. A red buoy marks the west side of it; vessels should not approach nearer than a cable. OtrMttoBs. — Steam vessels from the northward should make Cape Eamas, and then steer for the Oyster Bocks lighthouse, avoiding the rocky shoal north-west of the lighthouse. When within 3 to 4 miles of the lighthouse, the Collector's bunga- low on Elonay hill will be seen, and when it bears E.8.E. steer for it and anchor in 4 or 5 fathoms water, mud bottom, near a white buoy which is placed to mark the anchorage, at about half a mile from the shore. As the Oyster light is approached at night, a red light should be seen on the shore of the bay, and when it bears E.S.E. steer for it, and anchor in about 5 fathoms water as before. Vessels from the southward should make the Oyster Books lighthouse, and during day can with safety pass between them and Carwar head. The highest part of Deogur islet on with the highest part of Qoormaghur islet, leads eastward of the Oyster rocks reef, which will shortly be marked by a beacon. When the Collector's bungalow on Konay hill is in sight, bring it to bear E.S.E., steer for it and anchor' as before. Vessels from the southward at night should not pass between the Oyster rocks and Carwar head, unless well acquamted with the harbour; but should keep westward of the Oyster light until the red light on the shore of the bay bears E.S.E., then steer for it. Sailing vessels making the port at night should anchor in about 8 fathoms water, near the Oyster rocks light, and wait till daylight. It is high water at full and change at 9h. 30m. lk., and the rise is 7 to 8 feet Coast.— Fronting the bays to^the S.E.-ward of Carwar head are several small islets. Anjediva, in Lat. 14^ 45V ^*f a^^t a mile long, is 1 mile from the soatham shore of Carwar head ; close to it on the seaward side the depths axe 9 and 10 fathoms, and 14 fathoms at the distance of 4 miles ; a vessel may find shelter under the island, between it and the main, during the S.W. Monsoon, there being 4 to 6 fathoms in the channel ; 2J miles to tlie S.B.-ward of Anjediva, and 1 J miles from the shore, is the Button rock. ^.g.,^^, .^ L^OOglC MANGALOBE— CANNANOEE. 415 At Coomta, in Lat. 14° 25' N., Long. 74° 22^' E., & fxed white light is exhi- bited on a columnar tower 180 feet above the sea, and visible 12 miles. MreoBf or STetnan Ziaand, in Lat. 14° 1' N., Long, about 74° 18}' E., is about 10 miles from the coast, and being 300 feet high is visible 24 miles in clear weather j a small rock lies near its south side, but passing the island to the eastward, there are 20 fathoms a mile off it; but at night do not approach it nearer than 2 or 3 miles in 23 to 24 fathoms. S.E.-ward of Pigeon island the coast for a distance of 17 or 18 miles is foul and rocky« Hog island, close to the main, is nearly on the parallel of Pigeon island, and between them the channel has 15 to 16 fathoms near the latter, with 9 or 10 fathoms near the former island. The worst ground is nearly opposite False Barsalore Peak (4400 feet high), in Lat. 13° 51}' N., where several rooks are found 4 miles from the coast ; consequently ships would do well not to come under 20 to 22 fathoms. The edge of the bank of soundings abreast of Pigeon island and Barsalore peak is from 60 to 70 miles from the coast. The St. ^Kbtj lales extend from Lat. 13° 27' to 13° 19}' N., and though gene- rally low, some of them may be seen 18 miles. They are 2^ miles from the shore, having a boat passage between them and the main. To the southward of St. Mary islets, distant 2} miles, and about 1^ or 2 miles from the coast, is an islet with detached rocks awash. Prlmelra or Molky Books, in Lat. 13° llf N., are 4 miles from the shore, and have 8 fathoms close to them : they are 50 feet high, and visible 20 miles. At night these rocks and St. Mary Islets should not be approached under 16 to 20 fathoms, for in some places the depths decrease suddenly. The Asses' Ears, a double-peaked hill, to the N.E.-ward of Mangalore, and 15 miles from the coast, is in Lat. 13° 5}' N. L — ^The anchorage in the roads is with the flagstaff bearing from E.N.E. to E. by N.. } N., in 5 or 6 fiithoms, muddy bottom. Jblgbt.— A bright fixed light is exhibited at an elevation of 250 feet above the sea, visible 14 miles; it shows on all parts of the horizon to the westward : poeitioui Lat. 12° 51' 30" N., Long. 74° 49' 25" E. ]HreotloBo« — Coming firom the northward^ having passed St. Mary islands and Primeira rocks in 16 fathoms, haul in for Mangalore roadstead to 7, 6, and 5 fathoms. Coming from the southward, and having made Mount Dilly (or Yelly Paud), the coast may be approached, provided that proper attention be given to the lead, and a good look-out kept. The river is navigable only by small vessels, the bar having but 10 or 11 feet of water on it. ; XMIly is a bold, bluff headland, very conspicuous, owing to the coast north and south of it being low and wooded ; its position is, Lat. 12° 0}' N., Long. 75° 11^' E. The shore is bold, and may be safely approached ; at 2 milm' distance there are 7 to 8 fathoms, and at 10 miles' distance 20 fathoms : the edge of the bank of sounding between Mount Dilly and Mangalore is about 40 to 45 miles from the shore. OAinrAirOBS*'— The anchorage is abreast the fort in 5^ to 6 fathoms; 4^ &thom8 is close to the point, and near a dangerous reef of rocks under wate^ [q 416 W. COAST OF INDIA— COCHIN. Urbt.— A fixed white light is exhibited on a flagstaff on the fort at an elevation of 110 feet, visible 12 miles. The Admiralty light notice says it is extinguished during the S.W. Monsoon from May 20th to August 10th ; but this is not certain ; probably it is lowered to 85 feet during the S.W. Monsoon, in bad weather. Posi* tion, Lat. 11° 61' 20" N., Long. 76° 21' 40" E. VTm — The anchorage is in 5^ to 6 fathoms, soft mud, with the flagstaff bearing K.E. by N., and Green island N.N. W.— 2 miles off the town ; in unsettled weather not less than 7 or 8 fathoms. Under 4 fathoms the ground is foul and rooky between Tellicherry and Green island for a distance of 4 miles ; there- fore the coast should not be approached under 7 or 8 fathoms. Uirlit. — ^Two bright fixed lights — in the same tower of the fort wall— -are exhibited at an elevation of 140 and 104 feet respectively, visible 12 miles. The high light is lowered to 112 feet during the S.W. Monsoon, from May 16th to Sept. 14th. Posi- tion, Lat. 11° 44' 60" N., Long. 75° 28' 30" B. Coast. — ^Between Mount Dilly and Telliclierry the bank of soundings is from 40 to 50 miles off the coast ; 80 to 35 fathoms at 22 miles ; and 20 fathoms at 12 to 15 miles. Saorilloe Sock, 4f miles from the coast, in Lat. 11° 29^' N., is 40 feet high, and having a whitish appearance is visible 18 to 20 miles off: it is steep all round, with 12 fktiioms close to, and 16 &thom8 2 to 3 miles off it : the channel between it and the main is good — 10 fathoms close to the rock, and 7 fathoms in mid-channel. Passing the rock during the night, do not come under 16 or 17 fathoms. Off Knaaeliur or Cotta »olBt, in Lat. 11° 28' N., a reef projects 2^ miles firom the shore ; a ship passing should not come under 10 or 12 £ithoms. CA&IOUT. — ^The best anchorage is with the lighthouse bearing from East to E. by N. i K. in 5 to 6 fathom8,~or with the tomlm to the northward of the town bearing E.N.E. to E.N.E. i K., about 2| to 3 miles off shore, ^treai caution is requisite, as the shore is fronted by shoals which have several rocky heads and are very dangerous. Ught.— A fixed white light is exhibited from a column near the beaoh at a height of 105 feet above the sea, visible 12 miles ; it is extinguished during the S.W. Monsoon, from May 20th to August 10th. Position, Lat. 11° 15' 10" N., Long. 75° 46' 36" E. Bound from the northward, do not come nnder 8 fathoms until the lighthouse bears £. by S. or E. The 30-fathoms line of soundings is about 25 miles off shore,— the 20-fathomH line about 14 miles. The trade of Calicut is in pepper, spices, and timber. Beypnr. — ^The entrance to the river is in Lat. 11° 10' N. ; there are some shoaLi here, near the coast, on each side of the river*s entrance. Between Calicut and Cochin the coast may be approached to 7 or 10 fathoms. r. — The town is on the south side of entrance of a considerable river, which, though barred, is deep inside. IdghU-^Afixed white light is exhibited on a staff above the tower on the S. side of entrance, at an elevation of 114 feet, and visible 12 miles : it is lowered to 62 feet during the S.W. Monsoon. Position, Lat. 9° 58' 5" N., Long^it^ff bftl§^'^le COCHIN, AND NARRAKEL. 417 The bar, 1^ miles west of the flagstafT and light, is navigable by ships drawing 14 feet ; it is buoyed — a north buoy and a south buoy, between which is the entrance. The rise and fall of tide is greatest when the moon's perigee coincides with a syzygy, being then sometimes 3 feet, but it is commonly not more than 1^ feet. The night tides are highest from November till March, and the day tides from May to August, in the other months the two are equal : both ebb and flood are very strong ; and the stream sometimes runs In for many hours without raising the level of the water. There is, at times, a heavy surf on the bar, occasioned b}' the strong ebbs running over the shoal parts against the sea breeze. In 1860 the fairway between the buoys was the Pilot's Cocoa-nut Tree in line with Builder's (or Nypeen) point — both on the north bank of entrance. Having crossed the bar, and approaching the mouth of the river, there is a black buoy in 18 feet, to the southward of which Libut. Taylor's I. N. chart (1860) gives 30 to 33 feet, low- water springs. It is said the buoys are removed during the S.W. Monsoon. The common anchorage is with the flagstaff or light bearing E. -J N. to E.N.E., in 4J to 6| fathoms, sofl bottom, and about 2j to 3 miles off shore. During the S.W. Monsoon, vessels should not anchor in less than 6 flithoms, as there is then a heavy swell rolling in on the coast. The following is from a letter, dated Cochin, May 9th, 1865 :— There is a good Master Attendant ; but, considering the magnificent harbour, the lighthouse arrangements are singularly defective. There are about 1600/. to the credit of the harbour from Port Dues, and it is estimated 2200/. would give a proper lighthouse. Proper wharfage is also required, and elevators for loading and un- loading. The great danger is in the S.W. Monsoon. There are 13^ feet of water on the bar, which could easily be deepened, when there would be a harbour of refuge fit for a thousand vessels. There is now a steam-tug at this port. Narrakel, 6 miles off, is a safe anchorage in the Monsoon. Cochin is connected by telegraph with Bombay, Madras, and Calcutta, — and, con- sequently, by the Indo-European line, with England. The water communication is excellent. There are three lines of steamers calling here. The coffee, oil, and other trades are all on the increase. Ginger and coprah are also important items of commerce; and the sea teems with fish. If English capital and skill were applied, much larger quantities would be taken than at present by the rnde native process. The Bank of Madras has nn agency here, but money is scarce. Cochin is built on the north extremity of an island, and along the southern en- trance from the sea to the " Backwater" — an inland harbour or lagoon, which extends nearly 120 miles, being separated from the sea by a narrow peninsular tract. Large supplies of teak are floated by the rivers, from the forests, into the Backwater — some of which is exported and some used in shipbuilding : the other exports are sandal wood, pepper, cardamoms, cocoa-nuts, coir, cordage, sussin, and fish maws. SiTFPiiES of all kinds can be obtained at Cochin. VABKAXBXi, OR WAUAKaT.— The first notice of this port appeared in the Mercantile Marine Magazine, June, 1863, given by Captain D. CowEir, of the Euphrates, as follows : — " The roadstead of Narrakel, 6 miles north of the entrance to Cochin harbour, was first made known by Mbs9BS. Peabce, Leslie, and Co., merchants, of Cochin, B E Digitized by VjOOQIC 418 W. COAST OF INDIA— NARRAKEL. about twenty years since. It is a good and safe anchorage in tlie S.W. Monsoon. A ship may run in and bring up in 3 and 4 fathoms, and find smooth water at all times — the sea breaking very heavily outside this depth. The bottom is mud, and the anchor sinks down roan}' feet into it. I discharged a cargo of salt, with the S.W. Monsoon blowing very strong, and with a heavy sea in the o£&ng, but quite smooth where we were discharging. I could at all timeA go on shore in my gig. The Master Attendant of Cochin has placed a mast or flag-staff, about £. by S., oiT the best anchorage ; but that is no guide to ships going into the roadstead, as the cocoa-nut trees at the back of it hide it until you get close in shore. It can be seen from Cochin along shore, but not when in the offing. If a white landmark were put up, it would be a guide to shipmasters." And again, in the Mer. Mar, Magazine for January, 1864, Captain Lewis BiLTON, R.N.R., writes : — '' Having picked up some information about Nurrakel, I hasten to tell it you, giving aUo the experience of others, who have had better means of information, from living on the spot. In August, 1863, being abreast of Alipey, and finding my fore*topsail yard badly sprung, I anchored to procure another, but failed in doing so. Alipey is situated in the dominions of the Rajah of Travancore, and, until Sedashigur and Narrakel had been opened up, the only port on the Malabar coast where vessels could load during all the S.W. Monsoon, in safety — ^a fact I believe not generally known in England. It seems, however, very doubtful if Narrakel is known at all ; it is situated about six miles north of Cochin, and is formed by a mud bank, deposited there within the last few years, and where ships lie in perfectly smooth water, during the S.W. Monsoon — as certified by a correspondent of the ISmes qf India : — " ' The port of Nai-rakel, in the state of Cochin, promises to succeed ; three vessels have been lying there since the commencement of the Monsoon, and business has been transacted with perfect ease and safety — a circumstance that places the acces- sibility of the new port at all times of the year beyond the possibility of a doubt.' The weather is very wet and stormy, and in fact just what the Monsoon is expected to be. A resident merchant of Cochin, writing to the Times of India, under dat« of July 7th, 1863, says : — * There is no doubt considerable diversity of opinion as to the S.W. Monsoon, and its effects on this coast — ^viz., whether it is possible, or not, to carry on communication by sea with the different ports. It is not our purpose here to argue the point, and we content ourselves by remarking, that with the exception of Sedashigur, Narrakel, and Alipey, we believe the S.W. Monsoon may be said to dose the ports on the western coast of India, excepting, aa a matter of oourae, the gi'eat port of Bombay. We have taken upon ourselves, however, to address you with respect to one of the places above mentioned — ^viz., Narrakel, and its cajHtbiUties as a port, more particularly during the S.W. Monsoon. It is hardly possible that all which has been written, printed, and published with respect to it should have been altogether delusive; and the experience of the last few weeks has con- siderably brought us to the conviction that the port is a good one. But for facts— *' * 1st. When the Monsoon broke, communication was all hut impossible with the outer roads (Cochin), and boats could not be got to take cargo outside ; the Ckarloiie Jane, 619 tons, CiPTAiN Bubgoyiye, on the berth for LondoQi was moved up to Narrakel, and there fini^hed her loading. Digitized by VjOOQ IC W. COAST OF INDIA— ALIPEY. 410 " ' 2nd. Tho barquo Salvia, 347 tons, Captain Bbbs, oame iu here (to the outer roadstead) about the 6th ult, and tho captain finding Narrakel a more comfortable berth, moved his ship up there, where she lay flafely and quietly for a week, h« haying the means of communication with the shore every day. " ' 3rd. The barque Armenian, 347 tons, arrived here about the 24th ult., when communication from the shore off Cochin was quite impossible ; and the captain, by th« advioe of the Dubaah (who in the previous case, as well as in this, had boarded th« vessel ftom Narrakel,) proiceeded there, went on shore, got his orders from Cochin, and proceeded. " ' 4th. The Anatoan Apear (980 tons) steamer, arrived here on the 6th instant, the weather being exceedingly boisterous and wet, and signalled for boata to come off to her. The chief of&oer made an attempt to land in the life^boat, but did not succeed. On the following morning the steamer was boarded from Narrakel, and the captain was induced, from the representations made to him, to shift his berth to that port, where he has lain in 6 fathoms, smooth water, and shipped 80 tons of coals. Captain pe Bmidt, of the above steamer, expressed his gpreat surprise at finding his vessel in smooth water, and at being able to land in his own boat, and step ashore from it without the least difficulty. His expression was " that there was not a ripple on the beach." We doubt not Captain dx Smidt will corroborate this fully, if applied to. These facts, in our opinion, entirely prove what has bafora been asserted respecting the advantages Narrakel offers to vessels requiring to touch on the coast during the S.W. Monsoon, but it does not iq;>pear that these facilities art generally known, or if so, that they are not believed, for in the cases addnoed, none of the Masters were aware that there was such a place as Narrakel } «nd in the casa of the Lowiok (which arrived about the 17th ult.) whose Captain, we have reason to believe, did know of the place, and also of that of the B. I. S. N. Co.'s S. S. Kumtchee, no attempt even was made to test the capabilities of Narrakel. We therefore hope, that should you think with us, that it would be to the advantage of the trading community of this coast, that the port of Narrakel should, be more generally known, you will take such steps as you think moat likely to attain that result, and give a wide circulation to the government directions for making the port.' " I have therefore deemed it of importance to bring the matter to your notice, for tho benefit of my brother shipmasters, or of owners who may be induced by a know* ledge of these facts to trust their property on such a voyage, as there seems no reason to doubt that vessels can load at Narrakel during the whole S.W. Monsoon without any risk or difficulty." r.«— This IS a safe roadstead all the year round, and the town carries on a considerable trade; the shore is fronted by hard patches, alternating with soft mud. lilglrt*— A r$volving ithife light, attaining its greatest brillianoy every minute, is placed in a tower at an elevation of 130 feet above the sea, visible 15 miles; position, Lat. 9P W N., Long. 76° 20^ S. Two miles south of the lighthouse a shoal bank of 6 to 9 feet extends 1| miles off shore. Coming fram the north. Alipey may be known by a large white kouee, off which, when it hears N.E. by E., a large vessel may anchor in 6^ fathoms; also with the light or lighthouse bearing £. by N. you may anchor in 4) to 6 fathoms, according to the iixe of the vessel. Digitized by L^OOglC E E 2 420 W. COAST OF INDIA— ALIPEY. Cjlptain Lbwis Bilton, R.N.R., writes : — " All that has been written of Narrakel maj* with equal truth be said of Alipey, as it enjoys exactly similar advantages, viz. : — a mud bank sheltering the anchorage and landing-place, in the same manner as at Narrakel. I touched there as before- Tnentioned fur the first time, on the present voyage, and remained till next day, and found it all that had been represented ; I could have easily landed in the smallest boat in the ship ; I was, however, disappointed in procuring a spar, not finding them plentiful, the longest to be obtained was only 45 feet, whereas I required one 66 feet, and I was not disposed to stay and have one made in two pieces, but fixed the broken one in the most substantial way our means admitted of, and proceeded. Found a very strong S.E. current setting along the coast, with an in-iJhore tendency that re- quires to be guarded against in thick rainy weather, and at night. " The port of Alipey is under the charge of Captain Hugh Ceawford, who is Commercial Agent, Master Attendant, Custom Master and Superintendent of Police to the Rajah ; he resides on the spot. The only other European inhabitants are the clergyman, and an old skipper who keeps an hotel. There is also one American merchant. There is a- large Mussulman population, and some of the merchants very wealthy, carrying on a steady trade with the Red Sea and Persian Gulf; they reside here in preference to Cochin for the facility of trading from the port in the S.W. MoBsoon. The town is well built, and does not display the ruined appearance of most native towns ; and the streets well kept ; it is, however, completely hidden from seaward by the dense vegetation, and nothing is visible but the lighthouse and flag- staff, except a long bam-like building on the beach, from whence goods are shipped and landed, and which is connected with the town by a tramway ; a canal also runs through the town, by which trade is chiefly carried on along the coast in the bad season, as it extends north nearly to Beypur, and south to Cape Comorin, as I was informed. The principal exports are cocoa-nut oil, cassia, coir, molasses, timber, paddy, turmeric, hides, arica nuts, mats, cinnamon, flour, coffbe, pepper, arrow-root, croten seed, sapan wood, <&c. The English system of postage stamps has been adopted and seems to succeed ; in fact, everything seems here to be carried out in the English method. The present Rajah, Rumah Yurmah, is now thirty-one years old, and he is a very intelligent man ; he resides at Trivandrum, the capital, where he has a number of Europeans occupying varions situations under his Covemment. His army is commanded by English officers. The Hospitals (public and private), an Observatory, a Museum, Printing Presses, Schools (government and free), and various other institutions, ai^ all under European superintendence, and are flourish- ing. The Law Qfiices and Courts also boast of an intermixture of the European element. Few of the Rajah's predecessors, I suspect, were as liberal as he is. Large quantities of pepper were formerly exported from Alipey, but this branch of trade has fallen off in consequence of the Rajah having given up the Government monopoly in the article, and also from competition. Formerly, all the pepper grown in the country' was delivered to the Government at a fixed rate ; 'and the large godowns where it was stored, dried, and shipped from, yet remain, but they are now fast going to decay, and do not seem to be used for any purpose. A duty of fifteen mpeee per candy of 500 lbs. is now levied instead on all pepper, and the producers allowed to ship or sell it as they please. Salt is imported in large quantities from various sources — also tobacco, piece goods, cotton, thread, bullocks and buflaloes, iron, copper, coriander, gingelly and cummin seeds, liquors, wheat dhpll, ghee, jenun^ajnphor, W. COAST OF INDIA— ALIPEY. 421 sugar, &c. The boats at present employed are a species of canoe, hollowed out of a single tree, and of great length, but Masoolah boats Hiuiilar to those in use on the Coronuuidel coast are being introduced by the enterprising agent at Alipe}', and I saw several building. Good roads have been made to intersect the country in all direc- tions, with commodious bungalows at intervals, for the accommodation of European travellers. " The anchorage in the roads during the S. W. Monsoon is with the lighthouse bearing from E. by N. to N.E. by E. in 3^, 4, or 4^ fathoms, soft mud, where ships will be in perfectly smooth water, with a ndge of breakers in 6^ fathoms water (in bad weather) to seaward of them. It is very seldom that there is any surf on the beach at Alipey, even in the worst weather, so that ships* boats can at all times com- municate with the shore. In very heavy weather, for a number of years back, the sea tias broken in six fathoms, inside of which it is quite smooth, and Arab ships of 600 to 1000 tons anchor inside of these breakers in 3^ to 4 fathoms, landing their cargoes during the whole of the bad season. Ships may procure water from a well on the beach, and good vegetables and fruit can be obtained (generally) in abundance. Fish is plentiful, and of the best description and variety ; and live stock abundant, and only half the price they cost at Bombay. The whole of the adjacent country is one continuous tope of cocoa-nut trees, and the green nuts are a great luxury on board ship, and cost but little. There were formerly no very distinctive marks by which Alipey could be known, unless a ship was very close in, except a long white building, with an archway in the centre ; this is now completely hidden by the dense and luxuriant vegetation around it ; nor is the church tower now visible. The new lighthouse, however, is a very conspicuous object, and painted iohite, it cannot be mistaken in either Monsoon ; it was red, being constructed of the red laterite which forms the superincumbent strata all along the Malabar coast; it is a credit to the architectural talent of the worthy Master Attendant, who superintended the con- struction himself — without any engineering assistance whatever. " Bound from the southward, from the Bay of Bengal and the Coromandel coast to Alipey, in the S.W. Monsoon : — Ships bound to Alipey from any of the above- mentioned places in the S.W. Monsoon, should steer north until in Lat. 9° SO', then i-un down east for Alipey, making an allowance for a 3-knot southerly current after passing the Vicinity of Kalpcni island. " A large ship from the northward ought not to come under 7 fathoms, if drawuig much water, until the lighthouse bears to the eastward of S.E., as there are some shoal patches (with only 4 fathoms) in-shore of those soundings. " Alipey and Narrakel are the only ports on this part of the Malabar coast which a ship can rnn for, if disabled during the S.W. Monsoon, — the water being so per- fectly smooth that repairs of any kind could be conducted with ease and facility. Captain Cope, an old navigator, calls this place Mud bay, and says, * It is one of ye most curious places in ye world;* and I certainly never, during the 22 years I have been trading to Bombay, had the remotest idea that I could land anywhere on this coast in the bad season, and I believe most of shipmasters are in equal ignorance. '* Ships from Colon>bo, or Tuticorin, bound to Alipey in the S.W. Monsoon, should, on leaving those ports, be in good sailing trim, and have good sails bent, jus the weather will in all likelihood be bad. From Colombo roads, or the Gulf of Manaar, a W.N.W. course should be steered, close-hauled, for the coast of TinnevellvK'?^95^d [ be steered, close-hauled, for the coast of Tinn^elbrt^i^oujd 422 W. COAST OP INDIA— CAPE COMORIN. tiid wind hang to the southward, advantage may be taken of the same, and endeavonr to get in with the land about Cape Comorin, after rounding which it often happens that a ship will carry the southerly wind all the way up the ooast ; at all events, a ship which sails moderately well by the wind after having rounded Cape Comorin, will always be able to make the passage to Alipey in 8 or 10 days, there being often a favourable current along the coast, to the northward, after a slant of wind firom the south ; and a well-found ship, taking every advantage of the shifts of wind, will be able to make a much better passage, and with less wear and tear than by the southern route. The general direction of the Avind in the S. W. Monsoon at Alipey and along the ooast to the south is from the west,— perhaps to the northward of west. These directions (amended to the present time by me), were drawn up at the request of a few merchants and captains of ships in 1861, to whom the advantages of Alipey were kuown. Since then, English, French, Swedish, and Russian ships have loaded throughout the bad season $ and the vessels at Cochin (before the discovery of Nar- rakel) that have been unable, from bad weather, to complete their loading there, have come to Alipey, their cargoes having been sent down in boats by back water." QVCMIsr irt in Lat. ^ 53^' N., Long. 76° 34' £.; it is a projecting part of the ooast, and the foul ground fronting it should not be approached under 13 to 15 fathoms. Aiuettffo is in Lat. 8"" 39f N., Long. 76"" 4&' £. Between Cochin and Aivjeugo the depths are 20 to 24 fathoms about 7 miles off the coast, and 30 to 35 fathoms at 15 to 16 miles ofl'. The edge of soundings to the S.W. of Anjengo is 24 miles distant from the coast. The BaeUutt tBlaiida« or luni yebii)arare, in about Lat. 8^ 13' N., are near the shore, and there are several rocks abovo and under water. The coast thence curves rapidly to the S.E.^waitl. . Off CNUliapatam Volat are the Kotah and Adumdah islets, distant respectively 1 and 2| miles oil* the point; they are surrounded by fjul ground and rocks under water. Chreeodile Hock is also 2f miles off the point, and close to it, at 1^ miles are 13 to 14 fathoms. The sea does not always break on it. From this rock Cape Comorin beai-s East distant 5^ leugues, Oadiapatam point N.N.E. J £., and Adumdah islet N. } W. WMfo Baak is in Lat. 7"" 24' to 7"^ 44' N., Long. 76"" 30' to 76' 42' £. : the least water reported is 7 fathoms. On its northern end there are 17 to 18 fathoms, and 42 fathoms towai-ds the centre and southern part. Ompm Comorttt is a low, sandy point in Lat. H° 5|' N., Long. 77" 32}' E. About 2 or 3 cables (rum the S.E. part of the point is a rocky islet, with several rocks about it, on which the sea breaks. Opposite the cape the edge of soundings is 46 miles distant, and there are 20 fathoms 5 miles off it« Having passed Cadiapatam- point, the coast may be approached to 20 fathoms; but in hazy weather, or during the night, stand further off. (See also ppi 442-443 for a description of Cape Comorin and the navigation of the Tinevelly coast*) Digitized by Google •■" -lAi-. ' c» -^ •» t> , -J < If / • •1 ! • ♦ • •• f ' 1 • ■ \ ' 1 1* \ >. \ X ,•> i<- ■^ • - ■ ♦ i , tt 1 , I " if* \ V - » 1 1 "* 't I ^*jjf. ■\ ' ■■- r ' '\ - '^ 5\ .' . . • .. ' .^N -. .. .- ' % ^^ -. 'v.; . ' ' \ \ ■ • !■■ . f; ' ^ t K .t _^ ' • • \/' . "s" . ^ '• •\- / ' S V , ,^ VUi J. » 1 / t 'ill '' tl • nv ! r^i -t . '*i *it«:H / l^lTTz^l y Google-^ [CEYLON J asea) xowDOM, Jamea Imray &. SonJiQitized by ^ CEYLON—COLOMBO. 423 THE ISLAND OF CEYLON. PORT OF COLOMBO. The following directions are by Mb. James Doknan, Master Attendant at Colombo, 6th July, 1864:— Port of ColoinlK>.->The roadstead of Colombo, idthough exposed to the 8.W. Monsoon, is a safe one for vessels well fonnd in ground tackle. Vessels generally ride oat the Monsoon at single anchor, with a long scope of chain. A gale of wind may occur about the changes of the Monsoon, in the months of May, June, 2*^0Ttfmber, and even as late as December ; though a gale in the latter month is very rare, and several years sometimes pass away without an^' beyond a stiff Monsoon breeze. These gales are seldom violent, and it is only during them tliat casualties oocnr to the shipping. Only five vessels have been wrecked within the last thirty- two years. Communication between the shore and shipping is seldom interrupted, although there are occasional spells of squally weather and a high sea during the S.W. Monsoon, which make the passage over the bar difficult and dangerous, especially for small boat . A vessel may anchor unywhere in the outer roads with the flagstaff bearing from S. ^ E. to S.E. by £. in 6^ to 9^ fathoms water, and distant from the north bastion of the fort from half to one mile. The best anchorage is with the flag-staff bearing about S.S.E. I E., in 8 fathoms water » Vessels arriving during the S.W. Monsoon, or about the changes of the Monsoon, should not anchor nearer the north bastion than half a mile, or bring the rocky point at Mutwal (which is about 1^ miles north- ward of the fort) to bear northward of N.E. ^ £. ; and they are recommended to ride with not less than 80 fathoms cable to the hawse, and to have all the shackles looked to, and the small pins well secured, before coming to an anchor. The constant pitching motions which vessels are sulirject to cause the cables at some distance from the hawse to beat and chafe on the ground, and the shackle pins frequently work out, if not well secured. The small pins should be of iron with large heads, and the other ends well clinched over a ring $ if not clinched they invariably loosen, and work out. The Inner road or harbour is mostly occupied by the native coasting vessels. It 14 considerably sheltered from the S.W. Monsoon by the north bastion of the fort and bar, and affords good aud safe anchorage for vessels drawing not over 11 feet. The bar is a shidiug sand-bank, extending for about 1^ cables* length from the north bastion in a direction towards Mutwal point ; there are 7 to 12 feet water on it, and 3^ fathoms inside and beyond it. Strangers should not enter the Inner road without a pilot; and as the sea sometimes breaks on the bar during the S.W. Monsoon, and several lives have been lost by boats being swamped, they should not use their own boats in landing, but employ one of the outrigger canoes, which are always available, until they become acquainted with the passage over it. The Ballast Ground during the S.W. Monsoon is in 15 fathoms water with the flagstaff bearing about East; and during the N.E. Monsoon in the same depth of water with the flagstaff about E.S.E., where vessels may discharge their balUst overboard. Digitized by LjOOgle 42^ CEYLON—CO LOMfiO. Tides and CurrenL-'The current off Colombo, and in the Gulf of Mauaar, is subject to considerable variation, particularly about the changes of the Monsoon, when it i8 the strongest but, generally speaking, it sets with the Monsoon, and is never so strong as to inconvenience vessels making Colombo. The greatest differ- ence between high aiid low water recorded at Colombo is not more than 2 feet 10 inchcH. In the S.W. Monsoon, when the mean level of the ocean is the lowest, the difference between high and low water is from 5 to 15 inches. On those days when the difference between high and low water is not more than 6 inches, the rise and fall has been observed to take place four times within twenty-four hours. Blrections. — Vessels bound to Colombo during the S.W. Mcnsoon from south of the Equator, should not cross it to the eastward of 78°, as between 3° N. and the coast of Ceylon a strong current sets to the eastward, and the wind frequently hangs from West until the Gulf of Manaar is entered, thus making it difficult to fetch the port, if not well to windward. The coast for 30 miles south of Colombo may be approached with safety to a distance of 2 miles. The coast about Colombo is low, and not visible from seaward more than 10 miles. About one mile northward of the fort near Mutwal there are some lofty fir-trees, which are generally seen (when approaching from seaward) before the lighthouse or flagstaff. They afford a good landmark for Colombo, as, when viewed from seaward, they appear considerably elevated above the surrounding cocoa-nut trees, and seem as one tope rather thinly planted. No other part of the coast either north or south of Colombo affords a similar mark to this. There arc some isolated hills at a distance in the country, and the high mountain on it a sharp cone called Adam's Peak, about 7420 feet above the level of the sea, has been seen in clear weather at a distance of 30 leagues. In the N.E. Monsoon it is generally visible in the morning, and sometimes throughout the day, but is rarely seen in the S.W. Monsoon through the humid atmosphere which prevails in that season. Xiiffbt. — ^A fired white light is exhibited every night from the clock tower, a nquare, grey-looking building standing in the centre of the fort. The light is elevated 133 feet above the level of the sea, and visible in clear weather from a ship's poop 18 to 20 miles. Approaching the roadstead from the southward, the Drunken Sailor must be avoided ; it is a ledge of rocks with only 6 feet water over the shallowest part, which bears W. by S. J S., from the light tower, and is distant off shore about half-a-mile. This danger is clearly defined during the S.W. Monsoon by a constant break of the sea ; but during the N.E. Monsoon, with smooth water, there is no break, and it will then be prudent not to come under 9 fathoms water, when in the vicinity of these rocks, as there are 8 fathoms close outside them ; a more prudent course, however, would be not to approach the shore within 1^ miles until the light tower beai-s east- ward of E. by N., then to stand in for the shipping, as no advantage can be gained by steering close to these rocks at any time. The approach from the westward is quite clear, and also from the northward, with the exception of a ledge of rocks that stretches along shore to the northwai-d from Mutwal; but as this ledge is only about a quarter of a mile offshore, and so much out of the usual track of shipping, it is scarce worthy of note as a danger. A rock, with 24 feet of wat^r on it, has been discovei-ed in the southern part of Digitized by LjOOQ IC CEYLON-NEGOMDA, &c. 425 Colombo roadstead, which is now marked by a red buoy. Vessels arriving in the roadstead must give the buoy a clear berth of half a cable's length, as there is foul ground for some distance around it. waOOnCBA, 16 miles to the northward of Colombo, is in Lat. 7° 12V N., Long. 79° 48' E. ; it is a place of some trade, but ought not to be visited during the S.W. Monsoon, or at least from May to August inclusive. It may bo recognised from seaward by a point well covered with cocoa-nut trees, whence there projects in a N. by W. j W. direction for the distance of 3J miles, a reef, or rocky ledge j near the shore this ledge, for the distance of a quarter of a mile, consists principally of rocks awash, thence there is a depth of 3, 4, and 5 fathoms in places, but the extremity is a coral patch, with not more than 9 to 12 feet over it. Bound to Nogomba from the southward, the fort should be brought to bear S.E. by S., then steer direct for it, and anchor abreast the fort in 5 or 6 fathoms. The bottom between Negomba and Colombo is mostly mud, with regular sound- ings, but the coast should not be approached nearer than 4 miles, nor under 10 or 12 fathoms, until Negomba flagstaff bears S.E. by S. To the northward of Colombo, and opposite the river Mutwal (or Kalany Grange), some rocks, with a line of breakers upwards of 4 miles long, stretch about a mile from the coast. The following additional remarks are from Mb. J. J. Fbanklin's *' Instructions for Navigating the Gulf of Manaar," 1846, Ac. : — Clillaw Bungalow, in Lat. 7° 34', may be known by its high, red-tiled roof, seen 8 or 9 miles off in clear weather. Some rocks, once supposed to be at some distance from the shore, arc now known to be not more than i mile off, and consequently cannot be considered as forming auy obstacle to general navigation; they nie situated 5 miles due North of the bungalow, and are in a line between it and the next point. North of the bungalow, at the distance of 21 miles, and off Nurakadoo, uneven soundings on rock to as little as 3^ fathoms are found from 3 to 4 miles off shore, with 6 and 8 fathoms immediately outside ; large vessels, therefore, ought to be careful not to come within this distance of the land hereabouts, although small crafl can at all times go over the shoal. The coast between Narakadoo (Lat. 7^ 59|') and Dutch bay, mu^t not be approached under 20 to 25 fathoms, for at 10 to 6 fathoms, much ibul ground extends thence to the shore. Bntob Bay, in Lat 8° 19' N., is well sheltered from all winds', but more par- ticularly from the S.W., which are the strongest on the coast. Vessels can anchor here in 2^ to 3 fathoms stiff mud, close inside the neck of sand that forms the western side of the bay, with a cocoa-nut tope and house called Paringethoray bear- ing S.S.VV. The only dangers in the approach to it are a rocky patch with 2^ fathoms over it at low water, 2 miles W.S. W. of the North end of the neck of sand before men- tioned; and some shoal water 3 miles N.N.W. of the same point, and 2J miles West of some palmyra trees, a few of which are leafless, on the island of Kai-ateevo. This last extends North and South about 2 miles, with an average breadth of 1, having over it from 3 feet to 3 fathoms, with a small patch of sand, generally dry, due West of the above trees. There are 4 to 5 fathoms to the Eastward of this reef, but no person, without being well acquainted with the coast, ought to attempt the passage From seaward the North end of the neck of sand ought^to^f^}]gp|i|ght to 426 CEYLON— W. COAST. bear S.E. ^ £., when it can be steered for and passed within 50 yards, carrying 3 to 4 fathoms sand. Very good anchorage in the 8.W. Monsoon may also be found under the lec of Kodramallai point in Lat. 8° 32' N., which may be known by the three long hills seen over the low land of Karateevo. In steering for this anchorage, the North end of the hills ought to be kept about £. by S. till well past the island, when the anchor may be let go in 2^ to 3} fathoms sand, with the rocky promontory bearing S.S.W. to S.W., 4 to li miles off. No vessels ought to proceed on the Ceylon side further towards the head of the Gulf than this, as there are many shoal places at some distance from the shore, and no good holding-gtx)und. In the S.W. Monsoon a strong current is found setting to the Northward over Adam*s Bridge, which abates as the Indian coast is approached ; and a confused sea is generally found to prevail near Manaar. The coast between Colombo and Point de Galle has many outlying dangers neai* it, especially that part nearer to Galle ; they consist of coral i-eefs, shoals, and rocky islets, but all are well cleared by not approaching the shore nearer than 3 to 4 miles, at which distance off Caltura (Lat. G"" 35' N., Long. 79"" 57' E.) as well as north and south of it, there are soundings of 14 to 16 fathoms ; southward of 6° 2V N., and thence to Galle, the soundings vary from 20 to 35 fathoms at that distance from the coast, although the dangers stretcli further to seawai'd along this part. In the immediate vicinity of Point de Galle there are several rocks and shoals very dangerous to navigation. y/nudm M—tf nearly I^ miles wide, stretches westwai*d from Point de Galle light- house to the distance of 3 miles, and has on it a general depth of from 4 to 10 fathoms, but there are several very shoal spots. The Wbale Book, 1^ miles from the shore, and W. 4° N., 2f miles from the flagstaff, always breaks, but in liue weather only once in four or five minutes. Uttte Wbale Sook is small, and above water ; it lies half way between the Whale rock and Galle flagstaff, and has several dangerous rocks between it and the shore. Between the Whale and Little Whale rocks there is a clear channel with 8 to 10 fathoms, but this should never be attempted except through sheer necessity. North-westward of Whale reef lies Otndarali Book, with only 9 feet on its shoalest part, and 4 to 5 fathoms within a cable's length of it. This dangerous rock is opposite the entrance to Gindurah river, distant 2i miles, and bears W. by N. i N., 4i miles from Point de Galle flagstaff. A coral spot, with only 3 fathoms on it, lies £. by N. i N. f of a mile from the Gindurah lock ; and there is a depth of 16 fathoms between the two shoals. The soundings between Whale and Gindurah rocks deepen gradually from 8 fathoms near each to 20 fathoms in mid-channel. S.W. i W., 3 miles from Point de Galle lighthouse, is Gallehogalle bank, with 17 fathoms water on it ; from north to south it is ^ of a mile long, and ^ a mile wide from east to west. Should the wind fail, and the cun'ent be unfavourable, hliips may anchor on the bank of soundings extending 3 or 4 leagues to the southward of Point de Galle ; the bottom is generally sand and gravel, but occasionally rocky. DuHntf the nighty vessels coasting between Galle and Caltura should not come under 40 fathoms, and between Caltura and Colombo not under 20 fathoms. i r\r\n i o Digitized by VjOOy Ic Digitized by ' /Google k r Iat.6*l'2AlT. CEYLON— POINT DE GALLE. 427 POINT DB QALLE BAY. The Bay of Point de Qalle was re-surveyed in 1860 by Geobge F. McDougall, Master, R.N. ; and the following Sailing Directions and description of the dangers in the vicinity of the Bay have been issued : — FolBt de QmXf IBmy is formed between Point de Galle and the sloping land to the eastward, on the highest part of which, at an elevation of 264 feet, stands Edward's Pillar, painted whites thence the land trends to the S.S., and terminates in Oonawatty point, which projects farther seaward than the true point. The inner part of the bay is between Point de Galle (which is low) and a rock}' bluff to the eastward, named Watering pointf which has a natural red patch on tliu t«lope of its western face. The distance between the two points is a little more than a mile in an E. by S. ^ H. direction ; the actual entrance, however, is narrowed, and the anchorage within is much confined by numerous dangerous reefs, having only irom 3 to 15 feet water over them. At the head of the bay is a low sandy beach bordered with oocoa-nut trees. Near the centre are two rocky promontories, known as Gibbet island and Glosenburg. The anchorage frequented by shipping is in from 6 to 4 fathoms, sandy bottom, on the western side of the bay, abreast the fort, where supplies of every kind may be procured ; but the space is too limited to accommodate the yearly increasing number of vessels visiting this port. The land in the vicinity of Point de Galle is comparatively low and ill-deiinod, but the position of the bay may be readily known by the lighthouse which stands at the southern extremity of the western point of entrance. On this point the fort and town are built» the sea front being rendered inaccessible by a line of coral reefs, on which the sea breaks heavily. Several rocky islets extend a quarter of a mile to the southward from the light- house point; on one of these (Pigeon island) stands a solitai-y cocoa-nut tree (1860). The dangers are all above water, and may therefore be easily avoided. Xdfftat. — ^A Itxed White Light is exhibited from an iron tower, 80 feet high and painted white, on the south bastion of the fort of Point de Galle ; the Light, elevated 100 feet above the sea level, is visible at a distance of 12 miles. Aaoboniffe. — During the N.E. Monsoon, the best anchorage in the roadstead off Point de Galle Bay is in 16 fathoms, with the Pilots' Tree and the Church in the Fort in line, and the rocks off Oonawatty point on with a point to the eastward of Oonawatty. In the 8.W. Monsoon, vessels seldom anchor in the road, but should they do so, the best temporary anchorage will be in 16 fathoms, with the lighthouse bearing N.E., and distant about 1^ miles off shore. Tide*. — ^The tidal stream does not exercise any perceptible influence in this bay. The streams are regular, east and west, rather more than 1 knot. Supplies.— Point de Galle is now much frequented as a port of call for orders^ in consequence of the Electric Telegraph, which is in communication with every pert of India. Supplies of every kipd, including coal, can be obtained. Water may be procured from a small bay within Watering point, where there is an excellent spring and a wooden pier. Native boats and crews can be hired to supply ships ^^^^^**''- ' Digitized by L^OOgle 428 CEYLON— POINT DE GALLE. The Off-lting Danqebs are as follows : — Tlie Cailda Books consist of a series of disconnected patches, nearly 2 cables in extent, N. by £. and S. by W., and having 2 fathoms ou the shoalest part. There id deep water between the rocks. During the S. W. Monsoon, heavy breakers extend the whole length of the reef, but in the N.E. Monsoon there is seldom a break. The GuTEB Cadda, on which the least water is 13 feet, lies 8. ^ E., about two- thirds of a mile from the lighthouse, with the Pilots' Tree* and Sailors* bastion iu line, and the ickite mark on the western side of the bay almost shut in with Watering point. The Middle Cadda, with 2 fathoms on it, lies with the Pilot's Tree open of the Almond Tree, and the w/iiie mark a sail's breadth open of Watering point. The Innee Cadda has 15 feet on its shoalest part, from which the Pilots' Tree is in line with Flat rock, and the signal-staff on Neptune's bastion is open east of the cocoa-nut tree on Pigeon island. Faim U/oVk, having 6 fathoms over it, never breaks. From it the lighthouse and east end of Elephant rock are in line, and the tc/itVe mark is shut in with Watering poiu^^. MoomatMa Sook is half a cable in extent, has 17 feet on it, and breaks in bad weather during the S.W. Monsoon. It lies nearly in mid-channel, between the Inner Cadda and the islets extending south of the lighthouse; from it the cast turret of the Church in Foi-t is seen touching the west side of Elephant rock, and Flat rock is in line with Cutcherry police station. The Dangers in Galle Bay are as follows :— Polcatto Sook has only 3 feet on it, and always breaks. The marks for it arc, the lighthouse open south of Flat i*ock, and the Button rock ou with left high bhoulder of Moodliar hill. A black buoy is moored in 6j fathoms, about 30 yards E.S.E. of the rock. Mata-Mada Bocks form two distinct i)atches about three-quarters of a cable apart, and always break. A red buoy is moored in 6 fathoms west, about 30 yards of the inner and shoalest patch of 6 feet, from which the white gabled Chapel, on an eminence outside the fortifications, is just open of Schwarte fort, and the cocoa-nut tree on Pigeon island is ou with the north end of Flat rock. Belllcama Book, with 2^ fathoms on it, forms witli the inner Mata-Mada Patch, distant IJ cables in an E. by N. direction, the narrowest {uirt of entrance to the western portion of the bay. The marks for it arc, the Pilots' Tree just open eastward of the Gull rock, and the cocoa-nut tree on Pigeon island on with north end of Flat rock. This ix)ck breaks in bad weather during the S.W. Monsoon. "Wara Bocks always break, having only 3 feet on their shoal«.'st part, from which the Pilots' tree is in line with the Arrack store; and the Church in Fort is on with the Almond Tree. Bapera Bock, on the west side of the bay, has on it a shoal patch of only 9 feet water, from which the cocoa-nut tree on Pigeon island is on with the centre of * The Pilots' Ticc stnndd on Moodliar hill, and forms one of the mont important leading marks into the bay. It is large and muBhroom-tihaped, but being almost hidden by the growth of tretn in its neighbourhood, it has been recommended that these latter be removed, that this yaluable m.rk m*7 b. more .Mlly recognUed. ^.^.^.^^^ ^^ L^OOglC CEYLON— POINT DE GALLE. 429 Elephant rock, and tho Sun bastion is touching the end of Schwarte foi-t. A red biio}' is moored in 5 fathoms at a third of a cable E. by N. from the 9 feet patch. Cata Socks consist of a long ledge, extending in a southerly direction from near the west end of Gibbet island, towards the Wara rocks. There are several detached patches on the ledge, with from 1 to 3 fathoms on them, and deep water around. From the westernmost patch in 2 fathoms, the garrison flagstaff is on with north end of Schwarte fort, and the lighthouse is seen over the angle of Utrecht bastion ; a red buoy is moored in b\ fathoms, about 80 yards west of this patch. Avareea Book, with 4 fathoms on it, lies directly in the channel, midway between the Kapera and Wara rocks, with the lighthouse open of Utrecht bastion, and the Sun bastion on with rocks off Schwarte fort. Velllcocco Seef c-onsists of two rocky patches, carrying from 3 to 9 feet water. The shoalest part of the northern patch, with only 3 feet on it, is the spot on which the Peninsular and Oriental Company's steamship Malabar struck, causing her total loss, in May, 1860. From it the Pilots* Tree is seen just open east of the Gull rock, and Edward's Pillar, its own breadth, south of the white mark ; a red buoy is moored in 4 fathoms East, 40 yards from this patch. Tanna Bock, with 3^ fathoms on it, lies with the eocoa-nut tree on Pigeon island open of Utrecht b&stion, and the Pilots* Tree nearly midway between the Arrack store a&d Alexander's house (a little nearer the former). Tbe Chill is a small round rock, about 5 feet in diameter, and 3 feet above the sea level. There is a large iron ring on its summit, to which native vessels secure their stern hawsers. Zmbnrynlia Sock, with 4 fathoms on it, never breaks. It is the southernmost part of a rocky ridge of 5 fathoms, one cable in length north and south, and distant a quarter of a mile in a W.N.W. direction from Watering point, with a general depth of 7 fathoms between. The marks for it are, the Pilots* Tree on with the middle of the Arraclr store, and the lighthouse in line with Flat rock. Beimiba-BaTa Sock has 12 feet on it, and breaks during the S.W. Monsoon. From it the white gabled Chapel on an eminence outside the fortifications is just open of Schwarte fort, and Elephant rock is on with south end of Flat rock. Cabeera Kecks are two patches, half a cable apirt, north and south, with 5 and' 6 fathoms between. From the northern and shoaler patch in .3 fathoms, the Chapel just mentioned is in line with Cowdie High rock, and the Church in Fort is open north of the Almond Tree. Xotte Sock, on which the least water is 15 feet, lies with the belfry just open of Schwarte fort, and the Pilots* Tree opens its own breadth west of Alexander's house. Bocolosava Bock is well on the eastern shore of the bay, and is distant a j- of a mile in a N. by E. direction from the nearest pait of Watering point. The least water on it is 3^ fathoms, from which the Church in Fort appears open north of the Almond tree, and the Cutcherry police station is seen over the neck of Gibbet island. Blrectioiui finr making tke Bay. — As the approaches to Point de Galle bay are rendered dangerous by numerous sunken reefs, it is essentially necessary that vessels should obtain the services of a pilot. In most cases, the pilot canoo, with flag displayed (white, red, white, horizontal) awaits a ship beyond the limits of the Digitized by L^OOQlC 430 CEYLON-^POINT DE GALLE. off-Iyiug dauj^ers ; but as circumstances may possibly compel a vessel io seek a place of refuge when the heavy sea precludes the possibility of a boat leaving the bay, the following directions, if closely attended to, will lead into safety: — During the N.E. Monsoon, from December to March (inclusive), the bay is at all times accessible, and an anchorage oan be obtained with facility ; for a sea breeze varying from S.S.E. to W. generally prevails during some part of each day. Early in the morning, the wind is generally off the land from the northward, and enables vessels to leave the ba3\ During the S.W. Monsoon, from April to November (inclosive), though the wind frequently veers round even to the northward of west, there is g«nerally a heavy swell setting directly into the mouth of the bay from the southward ; this some- times oQMBions much difficulty in bringing a vessel up in an anchorage already so over-crowded as to compel vessels to be moored by means of stern hawsers, which, if required, are supplied by the local authorities. Approaching the bay from the westward, by bringing Point de Qalle lighthouse E. by N. ^ N., a vessel will pass clear to the southward of the Whale and Little Whale Rocks, both of which are nearly in the same line of bearing, about W. ^ N. from the lighthouse, the formei* being distant 2} miles, and the latter about li miles. The i*ocky islets off the lighthouse may be approached in safety so long as the Church in the Fort is kept westward of the lighthouse ; here the pilot*8 boat will generally be found. To pass north of the Cadda rocks, keep the while mark on (he east side of the harbour well open of Watering point, or Edward's PilUr on with a natural red patch on Watering point ; both will lead between the Meemattia rock and the Inner Cadda rock. Proceed with these marks on, until the west turret of the Church in the Fort* is on with Elephant rock (which is a high, smooth, round- topped rock, unlike any other), then steer for Gravet point (th^ termination of the high land in the N.E. corner of the bay), until the signal-staff on Neptune bastion is in line with the lighthouse. Then haul up for the Cutcherry police station, N. by E. i E., which will lead thi-ough in mid-channel between the black buoy of Polcatt6 and the red buoy of Mata-Mada. When the lighthouse is shut in with Utrecht bastion, anchor in about 6 fathoms. To pass south' of the Cadda rocks, keep the Church in the Fort west of the light- house until the tohiie mark is ioell shut in with Watering point ; the rocks off Oonawatty point will then be open of the point, and in line with a distant point to the eastward. Then ateer to the eastward until the Pilots' Tree (the large mush- room-shaped tree on the summit of Moodliar hill) bears N. by W.; the left shoulder of the hill will then be clear of the Almond Tree, near Sailors' bastion. Haul up for the Pilots' Tree until the Signal-staff and Lighthouse are in line, then proceed as above directed, between the Poloatt^ and Mata-Mada buoys. Caution.— Sailing vessels approaching Galle should be careful to keep a weatherly position to enable them tp sail in, and it should be borne in mind that the current sets along the line of coast with great velocity— to the eastward during the S.W. Monsoon, and to the westward during the N.E. Monaoon. • Care mw% b« taken not to oonfoimd the white gabled Chapel o& an tiaiBMiie ootiMIe the fbrtiflcstioai w)tt) tho Church In the Fort. Digitized by Google V c \\ ■4^ • c 9 ■ T f*/ ' '..'! I r: I » J. \ .-- ^. \ .-' '..'■' 3' ■:■ :■ >^ £uL» '--f- ^-M* ••' J V *■ ' V I Digitized by Google I; -J ConA(SSO¥^) E 1 Xa*._6»10'ir CEYLON— THE BASSAS BEEPS. 431 Vessels during the S.W. Monsoon, by getting to leeward of the port, have taken Aveeks to regain their position, and in some instances have been compelled to bear up for Trincomalee» Coast iMtwaea Foist do CkOlo and tbe Oroat Baosao. — From Point de Galle to Dondra head the coast is low and sandy, with intervening rocky projections : from Dondra head to Tangalle it is more rugged, and thence to the eastward is again sandy and barren. Dondra Head, the southernmost point of Ceylon, in Lat. 6^65' N., Long. 80^ 35 V E., is low, with a grove of tall cocoa-nut trees on its extremity ; from it a reef of rocks projects to the westward, having only 9 to 10 feet on it. The ground is more or less foul within a mile of the coast-line, the whole distance between Oalle and Kirinde (N.W. of the Great Bassas), and should not be approached within 3 miles (nor under 25 or 30 fathoms), which will clear all dangers : during the night, it would be prudent to draw more off shore. THE BASSAS BEEFS. Thm OBajtT mJkMMAM* is a dangerous i-eef of itxiks 6 miles distant from the nearest part of the south-east coast of Ceylon. It is abont half a mile broad and a mile long in a N.E. i £. and S.W. ^ W. dii'ection, and being only about 8 feet above the surface of the ocean, is the terror of the mariner at all times when hs has to round the southern point of that isUnd in his passage to or from the Bay of Bengal. A series of good observations with the sea horizon at the anchorage of H.M.S. Cyclops on their northern side, during the survey of these dangers and the a^acent coast, in the course of Jf ay, June, and July, places the north-east and highest part of the reef (distinguished by a pole) in Lat. 6"" 9' 53" K., and 1^ 15' 30" E., from Point de Galle lighthouse, and therefora in Long, 8P 28' 2" E. from Greenwich, assuming that lighthouse to be in 80° 12^ 32" E.t This result being obtained with nine excellent chronometers from many good observations of meridian distance run both ways, not only between the Bassas and Galle, but also between Galle and the station on shore at Potana point, with which the Bassas isoonnected by triangnlation, mny be considered well worthy of confidence. The reef is one continuous rocky field, portions only showing here aud there in the wash of the sea : the north-eastern part is the highest and broadest, forming a rooky wedge-shaped ledge, 70 yards long, N.E. and S.W,t by about 30 yards broad, and from 6 to 8 feet above high water. A mast with baU, 68 feet above the sea level, was erected on it in 1858. The reef has deep water to within half a mile of it on all sides ; there being 16 to 19 fathoms on the southern side, 11 and 12 fathoms on the western, 9 and 10 fathoms on the northenii and 7 snd 8 on the eastern lides ; but beyond these depths, on the western side, about 1 mile from the reef, th^r^ is a patch of 8 fathoms | and on the eastern side at li miles, there is another of 5 fathoms^ with deeper water be- tfk'een it and the reef. * Theae dlrectioM are from ths Surrey of Capt. W. J. 8. Puixkn, B.K., H.M.8. C^cfcfi9, t This Is the longitude of the Admiralty Chart. Sir £o. Belcheb gtyes It as 80° 16' 58" £. ; Baybr. in his ** Maritime Poeitloas/' 80° is' £., which Utter will probably prove to be nearer the truth. Digitized by LjOOQIC 432 CEYLON— THE LITTLE BASSAS. Prom the pule on tlie reef, Kattregamrae |)e.ik bears N.W. by N. ; Elephant hill, North a little westerly ; Chimney hill, N.N.E. ; and Nipple peak, N. | E. This latter line of direction also passes a little eastward of Little Elephant hill, a round- topped hill of 105 feet elevation close to the boaeh, on the west point of the bay next west of Potana. Ancboniflre. — The proper station for a light- vessel for the Great Bassas would be in 10 or 12 fathoms water, sand and stones, with the pole on the highest part of the reef, bearing S.S.W. i W. to S.W. by W. distant half a mile. This was the usual anchorage of the CifclopM, where she rode out many strong breezes. I.— The centre of this reef bears X.E. \ E. (N. 49° 45' E. true), distant 20 miles from the pole on the Great Bassas, and from beiug only about 2 feet above water, is even more dangerous. It appears to consist of large boulders, which even by daylight are scarcely perceptible from a ship till close up to them. The extent of that portion usually shown by breakers is not more than a quarter of a mile across, about E, by S. \ S. and W. by N. J N. ; but W.S.W. from its western pai*t are many sunken patches, breaking so much in heavy weather that occa- sionally the sea covered with surf is 1 j- miles in extent. The anchorage of the Cticlops was on the north<*east side of the reef, and from observations similarly obtained as those at the Great Bassas anchorage, the centre of the reef is in Lat. 6° 22* 48" N., Long. 81° 43' 23" E., being 1° 30* 51" Ea^t of Galle lighthouse. The Little Bassas is not more than 4^ miles from the neai*est part of Ceylon ; and on its northern side are several patches of shoal water, one of which, named the 3- fathoms tail carrying the least water, 3 fathoms, bears N. by W. distant 1^ miles from it. This i>atoh is of very limited extent, having 3^ and 4 fathoms water close to on its southern and western sides, and 6 and 7 to the northward and eastward. Erom a description by HoBSBUsaH, it is concluded to be the shoal on which the Atlas (one of the fleet of Indiamen under convoy of H.M.S. Daedalus), first grazed over on the morning of the 2nd of July, 1813, The Atlas reef, bearing N.E. j N. IJ miles (newly) from the centre of the Little Bassas, is another patch of 3 fathoms, with 4 and 5 fathoms water close around it, and being most probable where the Atlas grazed the second time in getting out clear of the shoal water on that eventful morning, is so named in consequence. There is much difficulty sometimes in discovering the Little Bassas (the light- vessel will now point out their position), especially when approaching them from the westward, while the sun is in the eastern horizon. The Cyclops, when sounding off the coast, in hauling in from deep water for her friendly mark, the Chimney hill, had no bottom with 110 fathoms of line, and almost the next cast had soundings in 9 or 10 fathoms, with the breakers just perceptible, close aboard of her,— a prac- tical proof of the steep nature of the bank in the vicinity of the reef on its outer side, and the danger of approaching it from the eastward and southwai*d in that direction on any course from N.N.W. to N. by E. inclusive. The following are the bearings fronj the reef: — Chimney peak, N.W. ; Nipple peak, N.W. by W. i W.; Elephant hill, W. { S.; and Kattregamme peak, W. i S. By seeing either of these objects on the bearings stated against it, the mariner will know that the Little Bassas reef is in the same direction. The reef should always be approached with caution, and a vessel should never attempt to pass be- tween it and the Ceylon shore. Digitized by LjOOQIC CETLON— THE LITTLE BASSAS. 488 JUMlMnff««— Between the Atlas and Little Basiias, and clear of the 6-&thoms line of sonndings aroond the reefs, is a space at least half a mile wide, with depths varying irom 5^ to 8 fiithoms water, where the Cyclops, while examining these shoals, in 1860, osnallj anchored on a hottom of sand and small stones. This heing good holding ground, is the position best adapted for a light-vessel for the Little Bassas ; and if moored in 6 fathoms of water nearly, with the Little Bassas S.S.W., dis- iant two^thirds of a mile, about half way and a little westward of an imagmary line from this reef to the Atlas shoal, it would be sufficiently clear from tuling into shoal water in either the S.W. or N.E. Monsoon. Some experience of this anchorage in the S.W. Monsoon has led to the conclusion that there need be no kind of appre- hension whatever for the safety of the light- vessel. • Xiiclit-TeaseL— A light-vessel is now moored (1st of June, 1863) inside the Little Bassas reef, the centre rocks of the reef bearing S. by W. \ W., distant about one- third of a mile. She exhibits between the hours of sunset and sunrise t^Jlashinff white light at intervals of one minute and a half. The light is 33 feet above the sea, and to a ship within 7 miles of it, in fine weather, it will not entirely disi^pear ; and it is visible from a ship's deck 18 feet above water at the distance of 11 miles. Oottflt. — ^The foregoing being a description of the off-lying dangers, the following is a brief acooant of the coast, as well as of the high conspicuous land in its vicinity, the heights of which may be used in the daytime, on certain bearings, to point oat the position of these dangerous reefs. The soath-east coast of Ceylon between Dorava and Julius Nave pomts, a space of SO miles, trends nearly N.E. and S.W., with ranges of high mountains inland, often obscured, however, by the hazy state of the atmosphere, said to be peculiar to this part of the island, particularly during the S.W. Monsoon. Near the coast inside the line of the Bassas, are several hills of a remarkable form (about to be described), which from their position form admirable landmarks, during daylight and fine weather, for navigating in the vicinity of the Bassas. The shore is comparatively low and barren, fringed with a belt of sand, but without any marked salient features ; the points are generally rounded and sandy, rising to elevations of about 100 feet. Off the pitch of all the points are rocky patches, ex- tending in some cases to the distance of a quarter of a mile. Along the whole line of coast the surf breaks heavily on the beach, the first roller rising at the average dis- tance of a cable's length from the shore. SMtrecwnme Bill.— The most prominent land seen when approaching the Bassas from the westward is the Eattregamme range of hilb, the nearest and highest of which is between 7 and 8 miles distant from the soa. These hills are sometimes conspicuous both from the eastward and westward, when others nearer to the sea are hardly discernible. Their summit presents an irregular ridge, the north-east peak of which is the highest, being 1972 feet above the sea. anepHmat BUI, the next height to the eastward, is conspicuous from standing alone on the low land near the shore, and bearing a remarkable resemblance to the ahimal from which it is named. It is 2 miles from the beach, bare and destitute of trees on its summit, which is 480 feet above the sea. XttOa Blepliaat BUI, in shape resembling a haycock, stands on the extreme point forming the western horn of Elephant bay; its elevation is 105 feet, and from it Elephant hiU bears N.W. i N. 2 miles. , ^^^ , ^ J, p Digitized by VjOOQIc 4M CEYLON— THE BASSAS EEEPS. Off this pointy at the distance of one- third of a mile in an E.S.E. direotion* is a rock just above the water. AuAdewe Poliit» next west of Little Elephant, may be known by its off-lying rocks. The outer one, which is about 4 feet above the sea level, is distant tlireo- eighths of a mile from the shore, and is steep-to on the outside, having 7 fathoms within a cable's length. Wipple siu, farther inland, bears from Elephant hill N. by E. f £. distant about 9 miles. Rendered conspicuous by its superior elevation, 903 feet above the sea, which places it as if alone, this peak is also distinguished by a flattened summit, with two lumps (one at each end) in a direction about W.S.W. and E.N.E., from which it derives its name ; the western of these nipples is the higher, the position of which was determined. This hill may also be known by a remarkable cone W.S.\V. of it, generally distinguishable, but more so from the eastward, although only 620 feet above the sea. dUm&ej Hlll« next in succession eastward, is of much service to a vessel for ascertaining her position in reference to the Bassas. It is 4^ miles from the nearest beach, 445 feet above the sea, and very conspicuous, being the highest part of a low range which takes an east and west direction ; it appears to be separated from the western part of the range, and derives its name from its resemblance to a ohimnej. From the Great Bassas it is not easily seen, being in fact sometimes enturely con- cealed by the haie which generally hangs over the land, especially in the S.W. Monsoon. Potana Point is rather more than one-third the distance along the coast, between Elephant and Chimney hills. The station on this point, a sand-hill 106 feet aboTe the sea, is in Lat 6"^ 21' N., Long. 81° 33' 23'46'' E., depending on the position assumed for Galle lighthouse, and is the mean of the runs to and &om Gmlie, being r 20' 61*46" E. of that lighthouse. The station bears from the pole on the Great Bassas, N. 24"^ 35' £. (true) distant 12$ miles; and from the centre of Little Baaau S..79° 10' W. (true), distant 10 miles. Potana point forms perhaps the deepest bay on this coast, and would afford shdter, in the S.W. Monsoon, for small craft not [drawing more than 10 feet, but a heavy sea always setting into it, throws the surf up to its innermost south-west angle, permitting no one to land or embark without a good wetting. Off the point, and also to the westward of it, the shore is beset with detached rocks for about a mile out, with some showing and others covered, on which the sea is always break- ing; thus presenting the characteristic feature of the coast — ^viz., a rocky sandy shore, wherever there is any tendency to a point. Off Potana point is the only anchorage in-shore that was used or was even found available for the Cyclops in the course of the survey. She anchored in from 6 to 6 fathoms water, with the point bearing about W.S.W* Dakosrs within the Bassas. — ^mepbant Beef is li miles in length, KJB. iE. and 8.W. i W., and a quarter of a mile broad. The north-east breaker on it is 1\ milea from Little Elephant hill, which is in line with Elephant hill. The south-west extremity is S.E. ^ E., seven-eighths of a mile from the detached rocks of Anadowe point. Between is a clear channel carrying 8 to 9 fathoms. Potansk Baaf, the centre of which lies E. by N. | N. 1^ miles from the north-east end of Elephant reef, and N.N.E. from the pole on the Great Bassas, is a rocky patch about half a mile broad and nearly square, on which the sea always breaks. No Digitized by LjOOQIC GETLON— THE BASSAS BEEFS. 485 broken water was seen between it and the Elephant reef, and there may be deep water between them, but the space could not be examined owing to the heavy sea, and shonld not therefore be attempted. Oydopa Beef is a hard, narrow, sandy ridge, with patches of rock and bonlders, having only 2 fathoms on it in some places. It is 3f miles long, E. by N. | N., and W. by S. ^ S., and from a quarter to half a mile in breadth. From its west end, in 3 fathoms, Potana point bears N. two miles ; and from its eastern end, in 4 fathoms, Chimney hill bears N. i W., the shore in that direction being 3^ miles distant. This reef is more dangerous than either of the former, in consequence of the sea breaking only occasionally on it, and from its having deep water dose-to on each side. In the course of the surrey the Oyelops struck on it three times, in different places. There is a channel between the western extreme of the Cyclops reef and the Fotana reef 2 miles wide, with from 8 to 10 fathoms, frequently used by the Cyclops iu passing between her anchorage at Potana and the great Bassas. Chimney hill, on with Potana point, leads through in mid*channel. Two lines of soundings were taken across the Cyclops reef with 6 fathoms being the least water, so that it is possible a dear channel may yet be found there ; but the least depth on the reef was 2 fathoms, besides many patches of 2^ and 3 fathoms. BflBdaliui Be^f is a small narrow patch of 16 feet water, lying N.N.W. 3} miles from the Little Bassas, and 1^ miles off shore, with Chimney-hill bearing N.W. by W. In the course of the survey the Cf/elops struck on this shoal heavily, and lifted her rudder several times, but from its being so narrow, was soon off it, and oould not again find the exact place with the lead. The depth, therefore, was determined by the ship's draught of water, for on sounding around her there were no less than 4^ fathoms at the bows, 4} in starboard chains, 3f in port diains, and 3^ fathoms astern. From Hobsbitbgh's description, this is evidently the shoal on which the Dtedalui was wrecked, for it states, ** she fell over and went down," the only spot where this could happen, from the deep water close around it. The Cyclops had 7 fathoms as soon as she was off. Direottons. — ^Thcre is a deep channel within all the before-mentioned dangers that may be taken in case of necessity, by keeping about midway between the Elephant, Potana, and Cyclops shoals on one hand and the main land on the other, or a mile off shore. The Dsddalus may be passed on either side. If passing inside from the westward, keep about a mile from the shore till up to Julius Nave point, then edge farther from it; if passing outsMe, keep about half way between the Little Bassas and the shore ; but no stranger should attempt the inner passage unless in case of sheer necessity, as the coast does not permit of any leading or back mark being gpven. There is deep water between the Great Bassas and the land, the shore of which is clear at the distance of 2 to 3 miles from it all the way to Galle. Should a vessel, from unforeseen circumstances, find herself at night inside the line of the Bassas, it would be better to anchor and wait for daylight to obtain het exact position by cross bearings. A vessel bound westward, after clearing the Little Bassas^ and certain of daylight^ if keeping a good look-out, may haul in and pass inside the Great Bassas ; she may also do the same going eastward, but when clear of the Great Bassas she must haul F F 2 436 CEYLON— THE BASSAS BEEFS. to the southward to pass outaido the Little Baasas, the light-veeael maridng which will now be a good guide. The ooaat is clear as far as Galle, and may be approached safely to 2 miles distance, but, as a rule, only in daylight, as it is impossible to judge of distances nccurately by night. CatUion.-^Jn Lat. T^TN., at 1 mile south of Saughemaa-kande, the eastern point of Ceylon, the Cyclops sounded on the south end of a bank, which was found to ex- lend 4 miles in a N.N.E. direction, with every appearance of a deep channel in shore, f^our fathoms was the least water obtained, but the bottom was distinctly seen from tlie ship whibt skirting its outer edge in 8 and 10 fathoms, and it is probable that much less water exists. An offing of 4 miles is, therefore, recommended to strangers between the parallels of T" and 7"^ &N. • — The currents in the Ticinity of the Great and Littio Bossas reefs are alike remarkable for their rapidity and eccentricity. .In the line of and between the two reefs, that is, about 6 miles off shore, the current, during the S. W. Monsoon, sets along the coast to the N.E., at the rate of 1 to 2 miles per hour, only diyeiging from this, its apparently natural course, when within the influence of the broken ground of the reefs. The rate appears to be influenced by the strength of the wind, and is, consequently, most irregular; the only way, therefore, of avoiding danger is to give the rocks a wide berth, although it may incar a great loss of time. Instances are known, where vessels, most providentially, only have escaped wreck, particularly the Dalkousie^ on her way from Madras to Qalle : to have seen the pole on the Great Bassas in a dark night must have placed her close to it. The tyclopt, towards the close of July, running a meridian distance to the Great Bassas from Galle, passed Dondra head at 6 p.m.; her position was well ascer- tained just before dark, showing the distance of 67 miles to the western reef, bearing £. by N. i N. The wind was aft, moderate, and a S.W. swell ; sail was shortened, the fires had been banked, and wheels disconnected some time, so that the distance might not be overrun, and a large allowance made for current At 3h. 45m. the next morning the wind was somewhat fresher, and the vessel was ruunded to, with head southerly, supposed to be 10 miles from the Bassas, after allowing fully 10 miles easterly current At 4h. a cast of 45 fathoms was obtained, plainly showing from previous sounding the ship had drilled outside the line of the Bassas reefs ; and at daylight, instead of having them in sight, she was at least 10 miles to the S.E. of them, and no bottom with 100 fathoms of line ; set by a current of 26^ miles in 14 hours, or 1*86 the hour, on about a S. by £. course. Bad this current been more northerly, as might reasonably have been expected from former observations, serious consequences might have r^mlted. Nor was this the strongest current experienced, nor in the only place. About half-way between the two reefs a current of 2) knots, on an £. by N. course, was found. Midway between the line of the reefs and the shore the direction of the current assumes a more northerly trend, and the rate is reduced, until it at length becomes absorbed in an in-shore eddy, which was almost invariably found setting along the coast to the S.W. at the rate of half a mile per hour. Between Point de Galle and tbe Bassas the current sets along the line of coast, the Digitized by OOOQlC CEYLON— TRINCOMALIE. 487 niM yaryioji^'at different times^ without any apparent oaiue, from 1 to 2 miles per hour (it is said to attun sometimes the rate of even 4 knotn) ; bat to the northward of the Little Bassas, close in on the eantem shore, a decided southerly set was espe* rienoed, at the rate of nearly a mile an hour, which increased to a velocity of 2 knots near Trincomalie. While lying under the Little Bassas, or within tliem, this set directly to windward was occasionally felt, the wind blowing strong enough at the time to keep the ship quite broadside on ; but this seldom or never lasted more than a couple of hours. At the Great Hassas it was never felt, and only occasionally as far west as the anchorage off Potana pointy and the greatest strength found at the Little Bassas was three* quarters of a knot. 0««at between tlM ZitUe Baae a e and TrlneemaUe. — From the vicinity of the Bssdalas and Atlas rocks, northward, the coast is supposed to be clear of danger as far as Lat 7^ N., and ships may safely approach it in fine weather to the distance of 3 or 4 miles, in 14 to 20 fathoms water. Between 7° V N. and 7^ 6' N. there is a bank of shoaler soundings (4 fathoms or less) running N. by £., which must be avoided* —the coastline opposite to it trending for a short distance to the N.W.*ward; ships should not go neai'er to it than 6 or 6 miles, where the depth is 16 fathoms and up- wards. Thence to Lat. 7^ 2(X the coast is again free from shoals ; but beyond, and especially for the next 10 miles, ships are cautioned not to make bold with the shore, for there are several rocks and reefs in the vicinity— one of which, the Alphee (re« port^ in July, 1864), lies 2 miles from shore, in Lat. f" 24' N., Long. 8P 5a 30" £. ; it is from 100 to 150 yards in length (N. and S)., with about 19^ feet water upon it, and 12 to 14 fathoms close-to ; bottom, white, with black patches, distinctly visible.* Nearly all the projecting points of land thence to Trincomalie are dangerous to approach on account of outlying foul ground, with rocks and shoals extending some distance seaward. Therefore, to be safe, do not stand in under 22 to 30 fathoms, or 6 to 6 miles from the shores unless provided with a chart on a large scale. Although the coastline above described is generally low, there are several remark* able objects inland :*-the Friar's Hood, 1563 feet high, is in Lat. 7"^ 26)' N., and 6i leagues from the sea; when bearing S.W.-ly it has the appearance of a friar's hood, but seen to the N.W.-ward it has the form of a pyramid. Gunner's Quoin, 1320 feet high, in Lat. T" 52i' N., is frequently seen 40 miles off. TBINCOMALIE. ntnroOKA&ZBf with its harbour and bay, is distinguished by the flagstaff near Fort Frederick (to the noiihward), and a lighthouse on Foul point (to the southward) ; both are conspicuous objects from seaward. Flagstaff point, in Lat. 8^ 35f N., Long. 81'' 14}' £., is high, steep to seaward, and oovered with trees; it is the extremity of a narrow strip of land which, prcgect- ing about | of a mile to the north-eastward, forms with Elizabeth jioint a large open bay 3 miles wide and 1 mile deep, known as the Back hay of Trincomalie. There is • H.U.8. notUuU sesielMd for thU ihoal in I>eoember, 1864. tad flmnd 6, 8, sad 10 fktlioBu, Imt did not eome on the 19 feet, aa reported by Lisor. J. Gehxviis, of the I^vneh Imperial ■tcamsUp AlphM, from which it was infened the shosl is closer in*shoie. igi^i^^^ ^^y LriOOQ LC 488 CEYLON— TBINCOMALIE. a ooiispieaoii8 detaohed rook off Flagstaff point. The peninsula which streidhes to the toathward and eastward from the town is steep and bluff on the seaward fronts and is, therefore, easily recognised, as the coast north and south of it is low near the sea. The S.E. point of the peninsula has an islet off it, nsmed Chapel island, off which, to the N.E. i E., distant | of a mile, lies a reef of rocks ; they are nearly on the edge of eonndings, and have 20 to 30 fathoms very dose to them on the east and sonth sides. Chapel rock, on the inner part of the reef, is above water. At two spots on the east side of the peninsula projecting rocky points stretch from a i to a i of a mile seaward, and ought not to be approached under 15 fathoms. The detached rock open of Flagstaff point clears all these dangers. The S.W. point of the peninsula (Elephant point) has Elephant island near it— to the S.E. — from which a reef named Elephant rock projects to the westward, and has only 4 feet water on its shoalest part; this is marked by a white buoy. Foul point, the outer S.E. point of Trinoomalie inlet, is now marked by a light- house, and haa a reef pnjeoting from it to the northward for i of a mile. Ufltti«— 'A VfhiU light, showing tkJUuh every half minute, and visible 17 miles, is exhibited from a lighthouse 104 ^t high, recently erected on Foul point, the south-eutem point of approach to the great bay of Trincomalie. Beyond the dis- tance of 7 miles the eclipses are total between the flashes, but within that distance there is a faint continuous light; the tower stands in Lat, 8^ 32' 10" N., Long. 8P 18' W B. k fixed white light, visible 10 miles, is also exhibited from a lighthouse recently erected on Bound island, at ther entrance to Trinoomalie harbour. The light on Flagstaff point is now discontinued. Bireotloiui. — ^There is some difficulty in making a landfall about Trincomalie during October and November, from the strong current which sets to the southward at the rate of 2^' or 3 knots, and from the light variable winds, with occasional squalls and thick weather, prevalent just before the N.E. Monsoon sets in. En* deavonr, therefore, to make the land in about Lat. 9° N., as, indeed, is advisable from the end of September to the end of March, if bound to Trincomalie during that period. The coast is clear on that parallel, and may be safely approached to the depth of 20 fathoms, even by night. If the land be made towards the dose of the day, stand off to the N.N.E. or N.E. at the rate of 8 or 4 knots per hour during the night. Should the wind be N.E., keep working to windward, and when standing in shore keep the lead going very frequently , not failing to tack as soon as the water shoals to 22 or 20 fathoms. At daylight, run in for the land on a N.W. or W.N.W. course, keeping outside Pigeon island (in Lat. 8^ 43^ N.) a rock 99 feet high, and about l^- miles from the shore. The coastline for 15 miles N.W.*rd of this island is, here and there, foul, but no rocks extend beyond a mile from the shore; but to the southward of the island, for the distance of 6^ miles, the foul ground extends nearly 2 miles offshore in some places. Mc^n Sauuid, about N. by W. J W., 8 miles from Flagstaff point, and N. W. by N, 13 miles from th» light- tower on Foul point, is a rocky island with some shrubs on it ; being encompassed by islets, and rocks (above and under water)— especially between it and the shore— there is no safe passage inside except for boats. When passing, it is advisable to keep outside it at the distance of 2 miles ith Flagstaff point bearing S. by E. to S.E. by S., distant i a mile, in 7 to 10 fathoms (according to the size of the ship), sandy bottom. The soundings decrease gradually to the sandy beach, except about a mile to the N.W. of the point where rocks stretch from the shore to 4 fathoms. Coming from the southward^ as soon as the flagstaff is distingoiahed steer for it, rounding Flagstaff point close, and bringing up as above. This anchorage is safe between the middle of March and the middle ofjjOotober, the period of the S.W. Monsoon. To Bnter the Barbour. — If the wind be £ur keep in mid*channel,and whenBound island and Marble point (beyond it) are made out, steer about W. by S. \ S., keeping the high land of the point open to the northward of the island until the entrance to the harbour is open ; then steer midway between Bound and Elephant islands, and between Minden and Elephant rocks, both of which are marked by buoys. When to the northward of these rocks, steer direct for the entrance of the harbour, which is about ^ of a mile wide between Ostenberg point and Small Sober island, — either of which, however, may be approached within a vessers length. On the hill of Osten* berg point there is a battery. Inside the entrance above indicated a spacious harbour, completely land-locked, is opened out, witli several coves convenient for heaving down ships. After rounding the shoal {buoyed) to the northward of Ostenberg point,the anehorage off the dockyard is south of York shoal (also buoyed) ; but intending to anchor off the town in the usual position for merohant ships, when through the entrance between Ostenberg point and Small Sober island, steer N.N.W. until past the buoy on York shoal, then haul up to the N.E.«rd, and anchor abreast the Victualling store, and i a mile from the wharf, in 6 fathoms water. The shoal just inside Ostenberg point has only 3 feet on its shoalest part, and York shoal only 5 feet. When making for the merchant anchorage* pais midway between Powder rocks and York island. At night, when approaching Trincomalie harbour /^om the etmtkwar^ ^FfK^f^ igi ize y g 440 CEYLON— N.E. COAST. point light tobearW. distant 2 miles, and then steer N.W. until Bound island light bean W.S.W.; then steer for this latter light until Chapel hill, the high bluff eastern extreme of land on the northern side of entrance, and easily seen in the darkest night, bears N. distant about li miles ; then steer W. by N. until Bound island light bears S. by E. ^ E. ; lastly, steer N. by W. i W., passing midway between Ostenbei^ point and Sober island, and anchor with the light bearing S. by E. i E., in 12 fathoms water. After passing Ostenberg point the water shoals rapidly from 25 to 12 fathoms. Approaching from the northward at night, when Foul point light is seen, bring it to bear S. by E. i E., and steer for it until Bound island light bears S.W. i W. ; then steer for Bound island light until the extreme point of Chapel hill bears N. by E. ^ E. ; afterwards proceed as above. UTorkliiff Xb* — When the wind blows strong from the westward, a strong outset renders it difficult to work in (at times) during the S.W. Monsoon ; ships then bound to Trinoomalie generally fall in with the land to the southward of the port Passing Foul point, it is safe to stand into 14 fathoms, or go about when Marble point just opens northward of Bound island. To avoid the outset from the inlet, it is re- commended to work in abreast of Back bay and Flagstaff point, taking care when near Bocky and Chapel points to keep the detached rock off Flagstaff point well open of that point to dear Chapel rock, and the dangers northward of it. When round the rock. Chapel and Elephant islands may be borrowed on, for they are steep-to ; but in standing to the southward, do not borrow under 20 fathoms towards the dangers off Norway point and isUnd. Being to the westward of Norway island, do not stand too soon to the southward, towards the bottom of Great bay, on account of tho sand-bank, with 3 fathoms on it, extending about a mile to the S.S.W. of that island, having 16 and 16 fathoms water within half a ship's length of it, and at a small distance no soundings. In approaching the bottom of Great Bay, the lead must be kept going ; for although there are no soundings witiiin a mile of the shore in some places, the first cast may be 35 or 40 fathoms, then 18 or 20, and the next cast probably 10 or 12 fathoms. It would be imprudent to go under 12 or 14 fatlionu, as the distance from these depths is not more than 1 or 2 cables' length in some places to 4 fathoms, at the distance of ^ or ^ a mile off shore : but to the southward of the bank stretching from Norway point, in the S.E. corner of Great bay, the soundings are more regular, and extend farther out, and here ships may anchor. In standing to the northward for the entrance of the harbour, pass close to the eastern* side of Bound island, which is steep-to, and you will probably reach the harbour's mouth without tacking, keeping the weather shore on board in entering. The xr.B. OoMt of Oeylon. — - MoeletivoB house, in Lat. 9^ 16^ N., Long. 80P49i'E., stands close to the sea, and bears about N.W. by N. from Pigeon island, distant 13^ leagues ^the coast between them is low, and safe to approach to 18 or 20 fathoms in the night, if the lead is kept going, or to 12 fathoms, occasionally, when working in daylight. MoBlettToe Slioal. — ^From MoeletivoB house, a dangerous coral shoal, having only 6 to 12 feet water on it, called Mo&letivod shoal, extends eastward and N.E. nearly 4 miles from the shore, which ought not to bd approached nearer than 13 Digitized by LjOOQIC THE GULP OF MANA^^R. 441 fathoms. As there are 20 and 21 fathoms about 6 miles from the shore, and 4 or 5 miles to the S.E. of the shoal, a ship should edge out a little when near it ; but when abreast of its eastern extremity, she may with the land-wind borrow towards it to 13 or 14 fathoms. The North side of this shoal is not so steep, but is composed of detached knolls, the depths decreasing regularly to 9 or 10 fathoms close to its nortliem verge, and to 6 and 7 fathoms along the N.W. part, close to the shore. From this shoal the ooast is low to the N.E. point of Ceylon, with 7 fathoms water near the sandy beach ; but care is requisite to avoid the following danger. Poliift Pedro Sboal encompasses the N.E. extremity of the island, and from thence stretches nearly parallel to the coast about 8 leagues to the S.E., having only 2} to 4 fathoms on it in many places, and 2| fathoms on two patches in Lat. 9^ 50^' N. and 9° 55 V ^' ' one of these bears nearly £. } S. from point Palmyra, the N.E. extreme of Ceylon, distant about 5 miles ; the other N. i E. from the same point, distant 4 miles. Between this extensive narrow shoal and the coast there is a safe channel about 2i to 3 miles wide, with regular soundmgs, soft mud, 7 fathoms close to the shore, 7, 8, or 9 fathoms in mid-channel, and 5 or 6 fathoms close to the inner edge of the shoal. To the eastward of it the bank of soundings is also flat, with regular depths, decreasing to 5 and 6 fathoms close to the S.E. and eastern parts of the shoal, and to 4 fathoms, coarse brown sand, close to its N.E. verge. Mark house (in Lat. 9° 32}' N.), bearing S.W. by W. ^ W., clears the south end of Pedro shoal. THE GULF OF MANAAR AND TUTICORIN. The xraTlffatloB of tbe Clalf. — ^It was formerly considered a hazardous under- taking for a vessel of any size to proceed far up into the Gulf of Mamaab — more particularly during the S.W. Monsoon, when it was supposed to be impossible to beat out [again. Later experience, however, has shown that no dangers exist that may not be avoided by ordinary care and attention ; and that as regards working to windward against the Monsoons, no difficulty will be experienced if the following instructions be attended to. Dwring the N.E, Jlfcm^oon^— that is, from November to March inclusive— fine weather, with land and sea breezes, will be found to prevail on the Ceylon side of the gulf, where good anchorage may always be selected between Colombo and Chilaw, at 1^ to 3 miles off shore, in 6 to 9 fathoms sand. Vessels wishing to beat up during the first three months, ought therefore to keep over on that side till they have advanced sufficiently far to make certain of their port, if bound to the Indian coast, as the breezes there may be expected to blow steadily and strong from N.N.E. with a strong lee current. In rounding cape Comorin at this time, the Indian shore may be kept on board till abreast of Manapaud point, a high promontory with a small white church erected on its summit. A vessel may then stretch across with advantage, and probably in the next tack fetch Tuticorin, Che only port on the Indian ooast frequented by large vessels. Small vessels of light draught will also find this the easiest method of working up ; and if bound to Paumben, had better keep the Ceylon shore till abreast of Calpentyn, which they may know by the three long hills of Eodramallai, the only ones near the coast. They can then stand across, and make Paumben either by the 442 THE GULP OP MANAAR. ExsTEBN Channel between the island of Bameseram and the reef and islands south of that port, or by the Wsstbbn Cbannsl between Freshwater and Anapaar islands at Yalmookum point. Dunng the 8,W, Monsoon a ship onght to keep over on the Indian side till near Manapaud point, when she will generally be able to fetch to windward of Colombo, and be clear of all dangers. The only safe place for vessels of size to anchor in on the Ceylon coast daring this Monsoon is at Colombo, where the current from the Kalany Gange or Mutwal Biver running to windward, takes much of the strain off the cables of vessels riding there. If obliged to slip, it is safe to stand across the gulf to Tutioorin, which being situated on the weather side affords good shelter and anchorage. Small crafb working down from Paumben will do well to keep inside the islands till they reach the Western entrance of the inland navigation at Yalinookum point. They can now work down near the coast as far as Manapaud point, when their fetching Colombo on the starboard taok may be considered certain. The breezes in the gulf of Manaar are generally stronger than on the adjacent coasts, the only moderate months being April and October ; yet if the instmotions already given be attended to, no difficulty will be found in working up or down against them. The N.E. Monsoon sets in with force about the middle of November, and lasts till the end of January, bringing with it a current of from 90 to 30 miles a day to the S.W. It blows steadily from N.N.E. along the Indian shore, but on the opposite side is modified into land and sea breezes with very fine weather. In February, land and sea breezes commence on the Indian side ; and by April the general set of the wind in the gulf will be found to have drawn round to the South- ward, the sea breezes being from S.E. to S.W., according to the coast on which they prevail. These now increase in force till about the middle of May, when the r^ular S.W. MoQBOon sets in, blowing with great violence from W.S.W. on the Indian coast, and S.W. on the coast of Ceylon, where it commences rather earlier, and is attended with heavy fall of rain, thunder, and lightning. In August, the strength of the Monsoon abates, but strong Southerly winds are still experienced in this and the next month, becoming lighter as the season advances. Variable and gentle breezes, with smooth water, may usually be expected in October, lasting till the setting in of the N.E. Monsoon, which is ushered in on the Indian side by 15 or 20 days of heavy rain. CuBBBNT.— The current will generally be found to set with the wind in the strength of the Monsoons ; but this is not invariably the case. Care and attention must therefore be paid to the soundings, and miless a good pilot be on board, a vessel ought not to shoal her water during the night to less than 12 fathoms above, or 18 or 20 fathoms below Manapaud, on the coast of India, or to less than 10 fathoms above and 20 below Colombo, increasing the depth to 40 till abreast of Point de Galle, on the coast of Ceylon ; excepting, of course, her position be ascertained by the bearing of the light at Tuticorin or Colombo. Tides. — The flood sets in about E.N.E. and the ebb about S.W., but their direc- tion is greatly influenced by the wind, Oape Oomorln, as already noticed (p. 422), is low, rising in a gradual slope, and covered on the east side with palmyra trees, may be easily^istinguished by the reddish appearance of the soil and a large white Choultry, situated near the beach. Two large rocks, with a small one outside, on which the sea at all times breiJ(s ;i^ijb)v^;^ch Digitized by^ • k ft y < a ll ' d 18 t d n 6 . il Digitized by Google* »^ I r ■Digitized by Google ! TUTICOBIN. 443 ▼ioleno6| stretch to the distance of i mile from the shore. They are steep-to, and may with a fiur wind be approached within ^ mile in 8 or 8^ fathoms, bnt with a scant wind caution is necessary, as the cnrrent sets rapidly round the point, and may drift a vessel into danger. Captain Hope, of H.M.S. Thalia^ saw breakers N.W. I W., f of a mile distant, cape Comorin bearing W. by S. ; extreme eastern land K.E. by N.; sounded, and shoaled suddenly from 11 to 3^ fathoms. The Tlii«vellj Onmmt, which forms the west side of the gulf of Manaar, is more or less foul from the parallel of 8^ 14^' N., and thence to the northward ; the shoal spots in many places extend as much as 9 to 11 miles from the land, Maaapand Point, situated E.N.E. ) N., 36 miles from cape ComoriD, k a high sandy promontory, jutting out boldly into the sea. It has a small whitewashed church on its summit, visible in clear weather 12 to 13 miles off, which appears at first like a ship under sail. Some foul ground (4 to 10 fathoms) is situated off this point extending E.N.E. and W.S.W. 10 miles, with an average breadth of 1 mile. The following are the bearings of the two shoalest parts :— Inner ( Manapaud church . . • N. B4P W. 6 miles ) 4| fathoms shoal part (Tricbendore pagoda. • . "N, PW. 10} „ ) sand. Centre ( Manapaud church ... N. 64° W. 8 „ )4 fathoms shoal part ( Tricbendore pagoda. . . N. 12° W. 12^ „ ) sand. There are many other patches with 5| and 6 fathoms, over which a vessel might pass, yet the safest plan when going between the reef and the point, is not to bring the church to the West of North till within 2 or 3 miles of it ; an E.N.E. course will then take a vessel out clear. VHoliaadore Point, in Lat. 8° 29' 65'' N., is 8^ miles N.N.E. i E. of Manapaud point, and 18 miles S. by W. (westerly) of Tuticorin light, and may be known by its having a high dark pagoda on its extremity, seen in ordinary weather 12 to 16 miles off. TUTXCOBZir.— This port is a place of resort for ships of the largest class to fill up with cocoa-nut oil, cotton, &c. ; but being fronted with some extensive mud- banks, the anchorage is a considerable distance from the town. Uflrt. — On Hare island, 2^ miles E. of Tuticorin, k fixed whiteW^i is exhibited on an obelisk, at an elevation of 43 feet above the sea; it is visible between the bear- ings of N. by E., round by W., to S. by E., or 202° open to the East j it may be seen at the distance of 12 miles; position, Lat. 8° 47' 17" N., Long. 78° 11' 17" E. The following are the instructions relative to it:— Biroetlona. — A vessel making the port at night may anchor with the light bearing from W.N.W. to W. by S. about If to 2 miles off shore, where good holding-ground will be found in 6 to 6^ fathoms. At 3^ miles distance with the same bearings, the ground is foul on pearl banks. Approaching from the southward, the light may be kept about N.N.W. till within 3 or 4 miles, when the above anchorage may be selected ; but should a vessel suddenly deepen her water from 7 or 8 fathoms to 12, 16, or 20, she should imme- diately steer North till she makes the light, taking care to keep farther to seaward if it bears North of N.N.W. The outer part of this deep water lies a little to the North of the head of the Coilnapatam reef, and bears 8. by E. 10 miles from the Tuticorin Kght 4M TUTICOEIN. Approaching from the northward, a vessel may keep the light abont S.W. till within 3 or 4 miles, when she must steer more out for the anchorage ; hat in no instance ought the water to be shoaled nnder 6^ fathoms, excepting with the bearings on for the anchorage« and then not under 6. Daring the N.E. Monsoon, vesKels should lie with a good scope of cable out ; as, although the seas are not heavy, they are sharp, and occasion a chain to jerk. The sea-breeze at this time blows on the reef, and a second anchor (with chain ranged) ought always to be kept ready for letting go. Doring the S.W. Monsoon, which usually lasts from the middle of May to the middle of August, the port may be made without fear, for, although the winds are very violent, they are invariably off shore (from W. to S.W.), accompanied by smooth water. At this time vessels may approach the reef to 5 fathoms, but should always have a stream anchor to seaward, as occasionally, during the lulls of the Monsoon, a light air comes in from the eastward. As a rule, large vessels ought not to approach the land above Tuticorin nearer than 6 or 7 miles, as 2( or 3 fathoms are found 5 miles off, in some places. When some large dampy trees at Putnurmadoor, seen 10 miles off, bear North of West, no other object on shore being visible, the shoal water is to the northward. There are two channels for small craft into Tuticorin harbour, but that to the north is so intricate as to be seldom used. The Southern channel leads between the southernmost island and the main land, the reef connecting them being crossed in 12 to 14 feet at a distance of ^ to !( miles of the island. This being passed, a course may be steered for Devil's point on the main, after closely rounding which a small vessel may stand direct for the town of Tuticorin, carrying 11 to 9 feet Before passing Devil's point 2^ fathoms are found, sand and mud. At the distance of 2^ miles due East of the Penacoil tope, a scanty tope to the south of a large ruined building, 9 miles from Devil's point, is situated the inner edge of an extraordinary natural basin in the rocks, 4| miles east and west, and averaging 1^ miles in breadth ; the outer part being the broadest and deepest The bottom is composed of fine sand and mud in 7 fathoms on the Western to 18 and 20 fathoms on the Eastern extreme, from which it suddenly shoals to 9, 8, and 7^ fathoms on a pearl bank. In standing up the coast during the night with a scant wind, this is good ground for ascertaining a vessel's position, as no similar spot exists from Paumben to Comorin. From the outer part in 15 to 20 &tlioms, the anchorage off Tuticorin bears N. by E. 9^ miles. Good anchorage in 3 to 4 fathoms mud, with this tope bearing west 1 to 1^ miles, iH to be found here during southerly winds under the lee of a reef which commeoces 2^ miles N.E. by N. of the next point (Coilnapatam), and continues with little exception to cape Comorin. As far as Manapaud point, this reef varies in its distance from the land from 1 to 2} miles, but thence to Comorin it seldom exceeds \ mile. The head of this reef lies S. by W. 10} miles from Tuticorin light The following remarks and directions (pp. 444 to 447) are by Mr. J. T. Fjunklin, who had charge of the Manaar Survey (1846). ■alUBff Blreotioiui fbr PAlk'a Bajr.— -There are two good enl PALK'S BAY. 446 b«y from the eastward: one between point Oalimere and the northern end of the Middle hanks, having 19 to 24 feet ; the other between the soathem end of the same banks and the north ooaet of Ceylon, with 6^ to 8 fathoms. Sailing directions were published some years back for the northern passage, bat I would strongly re- commend all commanders, with a vessel drawing 12 feet, to m&e use of that to the southward, except with a leading wind or with the aid of steam. Paumben bears from point Calimere S. 3P W. 73 miles ; and after rounding the 8pit that stretches off to rather more than a mile east of the latter place in about d| fathoms, 3 miles off shore, a vessel may stand S.W. i S., keeping in 3 1 to 4 fathoms, till two tall detached palmyra trees to the westward bear about nortli. She is then clear of the banks. This channel, through the centre of which the foregoing direc- tions lead, is 3 miles wide, having a small sandy knoll, with only 2^ fathoms on, about a mile inside its southern boundary, and 4 miles S.S.E. of the point. The depths on each side vary from 2 to 3 fathoms, with a bottom of hard sand, while that of the channel itself is mostly mud. The Middle banks from this stretch in a southerly direction, to within 8 miles of the Ceylon coast, having an average breadth of 3 miles, with imeven soundings from 2 to 3^ fathoms; and in one place only 9 feet. This is situated Si miles S. 2€P £• from pomt Calimere, and 9^ miles S. 44^ £. from the two remarkable trees already noticed. It is composed of hard, fine sand, and should be carefully avoided. There is always what is called a swash over these banks, which renders it hazardous to be on them in an open boat during a breeze. In beating into the bay against the S.W. Monsoon, a vessel should stand over to the north coast of Ceylon, and work down to the island of Delft, or Nedoen Teevo, whence a stretch may be made across the bay to its western side, where land and sea breezes will be met witli, accompanied by smooth water. In the N.E. Monsoon, a vessel bound against it should also work upon the Ceylon side as far as Kayts ; when she msy stand over to the coast of India, and creep to windward in smooth water. With the strong currents ever attendant on the Monsoons in the middle of the bay, it is impossible to contend against them without thus takuig advantage of smooth water and weather shores. A well-known shoal extends irom about 17 miles S.S.E, of point Pedro to about 6 or 7 miles N.W. of it, having a good channel of 2| to 3 miles wide, with 7, 8, and 9 fathoms mud, between it and the shore. The most dangerous part on its northern end bears from the point due east, 4^ miles off shore, to £. 28° S., 4 miles off shore. It has in some parts as little as 2^ fathoms, and a vessel in passing it ought not to shoal her water on the bank to less than 6 lathoms, when she will be about 3 miles off shore, with deep water inside. To dear the north end of this bank, having 3} fathoms on, the break in the trees atTondimanaar, which is plainly perceptible some few miles at sea, ought not to bear west of S.S.W. till within 4 or 5 miles of the land. Inside this, a vessel working to the westward may approach the shore with safety to within half a mile, carrying from 6 to 8 fathoms sand and mud, till abreast of Eangasenthoray, which may be known from its two bungalows, each built on a rocky platform washed by the sea. To avoid some foul ground which, diverging from the beach at this place, reaches to a distance of 2 miles from the shore a little farther west, she must now be careful not to shoal her water to less than 6 fathoms on her in-shore tack, or to leas than 5 fathoms on her seaboard ; as the southern end of the Middle banks, ^iUi2jym^ 3 446 PALK'S BAT— JAFFNA. fathoms over it, lies to the north. The channel is 6 miles broad from the foal g^ronnd to the end of the banks, with 5( to 8 fathoms, sand and mud, in it When the opening between ICara Teevo (Amsterdam island) and the main leads due soaih the foal ground is passed ; and when Fort Hammonhiel is well open of the N.W. point of Kara TeeTO, the banks are to the eastward. A vessel can then shape a courBe to any part of the bay, having good anchorage in 4 to 6 fathoms, ^ to } of a mile outside any of the islands. If bound to Jaffna, she should, after passing Kayts, stand southerly, rounding Elewa Teevo, Anella Teevo, and Naina Teevo, at a distance of 1 to 2 miles, till within 2 or 3 miles of Nedoen Teevo (Delfb), which she will make ahead. She may then steer easterly, keeping about a mile off Poongree Teevo, and taking care not to haul to the North of East till that island has been left 4 or 5 miles behind ; and anchor according to the directions about to be given. Following out these instructions, a vessel from point Pedro ought not to shoal her water to lem than 4i fathoms ; but more generally have a depth of 6 to 6 fathoms. lUreetloiis fi»r Xasrta.— No vessel drawing more than 8 feet should attempt to enter the harbour of Kayts ; for, althoogh there are 7i feet in the channel at low- water springs, the greatest rise is not more than 16 inches. To avoid the foal ground, extending 1^ miles to the westward of the N.W. end of Kara Teevo, a vessel ought to keep in 6 fathoms till Elewa Teevo bears S. by W. She may then stand for that island, shoaling her water to 3 fathoms, till Fort Hammonhiel, built on a rock at the north side of the entrance, bears S.E. by S., when she can steer for it, keeping the Custom House point, on which is a large clumpy tree, over the low sandy point of Kara Teevo till within a quarter of a mile. She will now be in 9 feet smooth water, and, keeping more to the south, may round the fort at a distance of from 200 to 700 yards, according to circumstances ; care being taken, when inside, to bcwrow over on the north side of the harbour till past an old bungalow on that side. Any anchorage may then be selected, but the best is off the Custom House, in 11 or 12 feet mud. Outside, good anchorage is obtained in either Monsoon in 13 or 14 feet smooth water, with the fort bearing S.E. IJ miles ; the north end of Elewa Teevo S.W. li miles; and the N.W. end of Amsterdam island N.E. In the S.W. Mon- soon the bank off Elewa Teevo may be approached a little closer ; and in the N.E., the fonl ground off Amsterdam, which will give a vessel a little more room for weighing. Large vessels should of course anchor farther out. Bireotiona fbr Yaflkia. — A rock was supposed to exist in the approach to Jaffha from the westward ; but adter n careful examination no such danger could be disco- vered; and, although some pilots declai'e that it is still there, they are unable to point out the precise spot. This, added to the testimony of some divers, who declare that they never met with it, although employed in the neighbourhood from childhood, may lead us safely to infer that the pilots are in error, and that no impediment is offered to the safe navigation of this part of the coast. A small vessel, having Cal- raoene point E. by N. to N.E., may steer for it till she opens Jaffna Fort diurch clear of the island of Mande Teevo ; when she can stand freely for the opening, car- rying from 4 to 2^ fathoms over a rocky ledge to 2} and 3 fathoms inside on sand ; and anchor with the following bearings :—Calmoene point, East; Fort Church, N. i W. to N. by W. i W. But care must be taken not to approach Calmoene point witliin 600 or 700 yards, as there are some rocky heads some distance from it. The best anchorage for a large vessel is outside IJie rocky l^J^ ?i^^t^{^^^ PALK'S BAT— ADRAMPATAM. 447 church bearing N. by E., over the centre of a small island called " Small Pox island," jnst clear of the small cocoa-nut tope on Mande Teevo, and Calmoene point N.E. by E. She would then be in 4^ fathoms, sand, about 2 miles off the island. It must be borne in mind, however, that this anchorage ought not to be used from the middle of May to the middle of August, when the S.W. Monsoon, from which there is no shelter, blows with great violence. Sangen In Palk*s Sasr.— 1. The Middle Banks, already described. 2. A long sandy spit, with from 1 to 2 fathoms over it, stretching E. by S., 13 miles from a low point above Eotipatnam, on the coast of India. It has generally a heavy swash of a sea over it, and should not be approached from the eastward nearer than 6 fathoms. Captain Powell places its eastern extremity in Lat.9^59'N., and Long. 79^ 29^ E. Its bearing from Paumben is N. 22° E. 45 miles; and from point Calimere S. 49"" W. 29 miles. 8. The foul ground off the N.W. end of Ceylon, to the eastward of the opening be- tween that and Kara Teevo, where the coast ought not to be approached nearer than 2 miles, for although at present there are 12 to 15 feet over the knolls, the depths may decrease, as they are composed of coral. 4. A detached rock, about the size of a ship's boat, with only 2 feet water over it, between Paale Teevo and the Devil's point, having the following bearings :— Devil's Point, South 3 miles; South end of Paale Teevo, E.S.E. 2^ miles. Lastly.— Some rocks awash which lie about 1( miles off the N.E. end of Bamese- ram island, where the soundings ought not be shoaled to less than 5 fathomx. Care should be taken in the N.E. Monsoon not to get into the bay to the east of this island, as it becomes a difficult matter to work out again. AdTAmpaiaau— The town of Adnmpatam (Lat. 12° 20' K.) is situated about 28 miles west (northerly) of point Calimere. A vessel, after passing through the North channel as above directed, may steer about W. by N. She will make the Shallavenai- kapatam pagoda, which can be seen 15 miles off, ahead, and should anchor with the town of Adrampatam north, from 3 to 3^ roiled, and the pagoda west about 6 miles. She will then be in 2^ to 3 fathoms, sand. Small craft drawing 6 or 7 feet water may approach to within 1^ miles of the town, bearing N.N. W., and anchor in 2 fathoms. The anchorage is good at this port during the N.E. Monsoon, but with S.-ly and S.E.-ly winds a he^vy swell sets into the bay of Adrampatam, rendering it less secure at those seasons. The &l«bt on the east side of Paumben Pass, Palk's Bay, is visible all round the compass to the distance of 12 miles ; position— Lat. 9° 17i' N., Long. 79° 12 i' E. The directions from pages 440 to 447 are principally from the observations of Mb. J. T. FBA17KLIK and the Officers engaged in the survey of the Gulf of Manaar and Palk's Strait. Digitized by Google 418 EAST COAST OF INDIA. callmere »oIat» in Lat. 10° 18' N., Long. 79° 52^' E., is low, and covered with oocoa-nnt trees ; off it a shoal flat projects some distance seaward, in conseqnenoe of which it should not he approached in passing, under 6 to 7 fathoms. Two pagodas, near each other, about a mile from the shore, and 5^ miles N.W.-ward oi the point, are in Lat. 10° 22|' N. (For a description of the shoals off this point, see p. 446.) ire^apatam 8lio«l, the centre of which is in Lat. 10° 35' N., is about 7 miles long, but only a few cables wide, having on it 24 feet water at its S. extremity, and 19 feet at its N. end ; and it consists chiefly of hard sand and stones : between the shoal and the main the channel is from 3 to 4 miles in width, having 3^ to 6 fathoms in its deepest parts, near the inner edge of the shoal ; outside, there are 6 to 7 fathoms dose-to, consequently it ought not to be approached under 8 fathoms ; some knolls near the N. part of the shoal have overfalls of 7 to 5 fathoms on them. is a place of considerable trade for small coasting vessels. XdghU—IiJixed white light, visible between the bearings of N.N.W. to S.S.W., by the westward, is exhibited S. of the town from the bastion of the fort, on a flag- staff 100 feet above the sea, and may be seen 12 miles ; during the N.E. Monsoon it is lowered to 88 feet. Fosition^Lat. 10° 46' N., Long. 79° SO' E« The coast being veiy low, a blaek pagoda 1^ miles N.N.W. of the fort if a conspicuous object on approaching it The AMMitMif during the flne season is 1^ to 2 miles off shore in 5 to H fathoms, with the flagstaff bearing W. to W. by S., soft bottom. But ships must keep farther out in unsettled weather, at which time, in 6 to 7 fathoms, with the flagstaff W. i S., and the highest of the five tohiie pagodas N.W., there is good holding ground. Supplies. — ^Water, frenh provisions, fruit, vegetables, rice, Ac., may be procured here ; but firewood is scarce. Coming from the southward during the S.W. Monsoon, keep in soundings, other- wise it will be difiicult to make the coast between Calimere point and Negapatam, owing to the prevalent westerly winds and strong northerly current. Negapatam shoal is cleared by keeping in 8 fathoms, and when a white house (5 miles south of Negapatam) beai*s W. (southerly) you may haul in with safety towards the anchorage * iragore, in Lat. 10^ 49^ N., and 4 miles northward of Negapatam, has a large trade, carried on by natives, with the ports on the east side of the bay of Bengal, and with Sumatra; it is readily distinguished by five white pagodas; the coast is low and swampy, and at times inundated near the mouth of the river. The anchorage in the roadstead is 2^ miles off the entrance to the river, in 5 to 6 fathoms, with the five white pagodas bearing W.S.W. or W. by S. CsnicalL— Ships ancl;or abreast the river in 6 to 6 fathoms. There is ajla^ed white light, exhibited from a flagstaff 65 feet above the sea, and visible 8 miles. Position— Lat. lOP 55' N., Long. 79° 49^ 36" E. At Traaquebar, in Lnt. 11° 1' N., there is said to be a shoal opposite the mouth of the river, 10 miles offshore, but it in unknown to the fishermen of Carricall. Colerooo Mkwer is in Lat. ir23'N. ; Coleroon shoal fringes the coast for several miles, and projects seaward 6 or 6 miles from tlie entrance of the river ; hen a large Digitized by LjOOQIC PONDICHERRT. 4M ship should not come under 12 to 14 fathoms by day, nor 16 to 20 fathoms hy night. The south end of the shoal is marked by the southernmost of the Chalam« baram pagoda on with the south part of Coleroon wood ; the two pagodas in one (W.8.W.), and Porto Novo flagstaff, bearing W. by N. i N., marks the north end of the shoal. »orto irovo, in Lat. ll"" dOf N., is sheltered to the S.E. by the Coleroon shoal; ships anchor here in 6 fathoms, 2 miles off shore— the flagstaff bearing W. i N., and the southernmost of the Chalambaram pagodas S.W. i W. ; rounding Coleroon shoal bring the flagstaff to bear W. by N. i N., or if in 18 to 20 fathoms water, haul in when the flagstaff bears W.N.W. Ctaddalore is in Lat. 11^ 43' N. ; the anchorage is in 6 to 6 fathoms, with the flagstaff N.W. by N. to N.W. J N. ; the river is small and barred. Supplies of all kinds ma^be procured. Off the ruins of Tort St. David, 2 miles northward of Cud« dalore, a bank projects from i to | of a mile seawards. r, in Lat. 11° 56' N., is a French town standing on a flat, sandy plain, close to the sea. The first conspicuous object on making the coast hereabouts is a grove of trees on a flat hill, N.W. of the town ; the river is small, and can only be entered by small country vessels. Uflit.—- A jiSor^i white light is exhibited from the square in the town, at an eleva- tion of 130 feet above the sea, and visible 15 miles on all points of the sea horizon. Position.— Lat IP 55' 40" N., Long. 7»° 49' B. Take care not to confound this light with that from the chimney of the foundry at Porto Novo. Anobomctti^ — ^During the S.W. Monsoon, and in fine weather, the anchorage is in 7 to 8 fathoms, abreast of and | of a mile from the town ; but small ships come into 5^ or 6 fathoms ; at night, bring the lights bearing West to W. by N. before anchoring. During the stormy period of the N.E. Monsoon, the anchorage is in the outer roadstead in 12 to 14 fathoms. During the night, there is convenient anchor- age in 10 to 12 fathoms, with the light bearing W. to W JJ.W. Biraotloiis. — Coasting along from point Calimere to Pondicherry, 10 to 14 fathoms may be kept, except when approaching Coleroon shoal, where it is not safe to come under 14 or 15 fi^thoms, since the water shoals very suddenly in places there- abouts. Between Cuddalore and Pondicherry there are 7 fathoms at 1 to 1^ miles off shore, and 40 to '45 fathoms 18 to 20 miles off; the bank thence becoming very rapidly steep. The coast between Pondicherry and Sadi'as is generally low, with sand-hills here and there fronting the sea ; and off Coigimeer, in Lat. 12° 8' to 12° 11', a bank of 5 fathoms is stated to exist about 5 miles off shore. •adraa is in Lat 12° 32' N. The coast may be known by an irregular ridge of hills (Sadras hills) inland, at the back of the town ; some of these are very rugged, and when the highest bears N.W. the ship is nearly abreast of Sadras. About 7 miles northward of Sadras are the seven Moolivaram pagodas, two of which are now close to the sea, though it is stated that at one time they were some distance inland ; they are not clearly discernible unless well in with the laud. Tripaloor SlumL — To the northward of the seven Moolivaram pagodas, between them and Covelong, the rocky shoal of Tripaloor, with very foul ground near it, stretches from 1 to 3 miles off shore ; the Rockingham was wrecked on it in Lat. 12° 43' N. Soundings of 5 to 7 fathoms were also reported in 1820, by Captain Babcla^IC o G 460 E. COAST OF INDIA. the Buimer, stated to be on a bank in Lat. 12° 26' N., 10 miles off shore ; and an* other bank of 4 to 6 fathoms, in Lat. 12P 45' to 12^ 47' N., about 40 to 45 miles off shore ; neither of these seera probable. The distance from point Calimere to Pondicherry is about 97 miles, and the course nearly due north, except to the northward of the Coleroon shoal, whore the coast curves slightly inwards. From Pondicherry to Sadras the distance is about 43 miles, and the direction of the coast nearly N.N.E. ; thcnoe to Madras the distance is about 34 miles, and the coast line firat N. by E. and then N. i £. The shora is generally low and sandy — with occasional sand-hills — and the surf at all times beats heavily on the shore, so that there are few spots where a landing can be effected from the ship's boats ; hence the peculiar boats of the natives, called Masoolah boats, are everywhere in requisition. Although tlie shores are low, they are generally well- wooded, generally with Palmyra and cocoa-nut trees, and the aspect of the country is fertile. To the northward of the parallel of 12° N., the country inland becomes mountainous — the eastern Ghauts, with several offahoota, stretching towards the sea shore. St. Thomas, or Milapore, is a small town close to the sea, in Lat. 13° 1' N. ; the country inkmd is hilly ; the northernmost hill, 4J miles from the sea, in I*at. 13° oy N., has a church on it, by which it may be distinguished when sailing along. MADRAS. Mai»»a» is the seat of Government of the Madras Presidency, and the prinoipal town on the Coromandel coast. Fort St. George, in which is the Governor's house and the Government offices, stands dose to the sea, and is strongly fortified. The native town is to the north of the fort, separated from it by the esplanade, and though extensive is not well built. Madras is a place of extensive trade — ^both the exporta and imports being large. The limits of Madras roadstead (in 8 or 9 fathoms) are oomprised within the following bearings — viz., from the northward, the lighthouse will bear S. 56° W. j and from the southward, N. 81° W., or from S,W. by W. to W.fN. Ugbt. — ^The lighthouse, 125 feet high, stands on the esplanade, N. of the fort. and exhibits a Jixed white light, varied by a flash every two minutes, visible from 17 to 24 miles. Position.— Lat. 13° 5' 10" N., Long. 80° 16' 30" E. Vulteat Shoals* — ^With the original light notice the following caution was issued respecting the Pulicat shoals to the northward of the roadstead :-— From the SwS. extremity of the Pulicat shoals the new lighthouse bears S. 23° W., distant 13 miles ; but DO ship» when hauling in from the northward for Madras roadstead, should bring the light to bear to the southward of S. 28° W., or S.S. W. \ W., unless her position is well ascertained. Commanders are warned of the serious risk they incur by incan* tiously approaching the dangerous vicinity of the Pulicat shoals, as hazy weather, or other causes, may obscure the light; true soundings, therefore, and a vigilant look* out are imperatively called for. The Mastib Attshdant's Inatmotlona are to the following effect; — All ships, other than native vessels, are to anchor with the following beaiinga— viz., the Master-Attendant's flagstaff from N.W. to W. i N., which will be found convenient anchorage for merchant vessels, and the southern limits of the roadstead MADBAS. 451 uBuallj resorted to by men-of-war may be aacertained aa within the position denoted by bringing the lighthouse to bear from W. by N. to W., in from 9 to 7 fathoms— which is the range of sonndings throughout. Ships should take up such a berth aa will enable them to wear clear of all danger in the event of casting in shore when they weigh or part from their anchors — especially aa the ground-swell, so prevalent here, tends (against all precaution) to cast a vessel in shore. Bringing-up in Madras roads, a buoy should always be attached to the anchor, whereby giving foul berths may be avoided, and the position of lost anchors will be indicated. Ships have frequently parted, and accidents have happened by riding with too short a scope ; no vessel, therefore, is safe with less than 60 fatiioms df cable in moderate weather, and 80 fathoms or more when there is a swell. Also, to those who are not acquainted with the roadstead, should any jerk be felt when riding with a chain (from the heavy swell that rolls in at times), either on the windlass or bitts, cable should be veered until the jerk is no}onger felt; and a second anchor should always be ready. Efficient ground tackling ia essential to the safety of vessels in Madras roads. Blvaala. — ^When the surf is so high as in the opinion of the Master Attendant, or his assistant, to render communication with the shore dangerous, a red and white chequered flag will be hoisted at the Master- Attendant's flagstaff; when the surf is impassable, the^r^^ disthiguUhing pendant will be displayed fMU^that flag; when the current is too strong, the rendezvous flag will be hoisted. Should the weather assume such a threatening appearance as may in the opinion of tlie Master Attendant indicate an approaching gale, and render it advisable that t^hips should put to sea, the following signals will be hoisted at the Master Atten- dant's flagstaff, but the commander is not to wait the display of signals if he deems it prudent to put to sea ; — 1. The weather is suspicious, prepare to put to sea — White flag, with blue cross. 2. Cut, or slip— JSec? flag, with swallow-tail. U]X)n the indication of an approaching gale of wind after sunset, three good lights will be hoisted at the Master- Attendant's flagstaff — one at the mast-head, and one at each yard-arm ; and a gun will be fired from the ramparts of Fort St. George every five minutes for an hour, or such time as may be deemed necessary ; these signals are to be acknowledged by hoisting a good light at the peak, or other conspicuous place. Commanders are warned of their own extreme responsibility if these signals . do not receive timely attention ; and they are also advised to have their ships always prepared to put to sea, especially on or about the change of each Monsoon, and to pay strict attention to the necessity of having good sails bent, which, in the event of being driven to sea, or compelled to slip, is of the utmost consequence* Their first object should be to gain a good offing, under treble or close-reefed topsails and reefed courses, carefully attending to the lead and soundings, and guarding against a strong cnn-ent, which generally varies its course according to the strength and direction of the wind. When the weather is threatening or doubtful^ oommanders should repair on board their respective ships before simset. Antilioracer— The roadstead of Madras is open to all winds, except those from the westward (or off the land) ; and the prevalent swell causes vessels to la, Q Q 2 Digitized by ^ 452 E. COAST OP INDIA. ooDiiiderably at timet. YoBseli diachaxging cargo often moor in 8^ to 9 fathoma alrcai^t the flagstaff, with it bearing W., or W. by N. A good position for large vessek is with the flagstaff bearing N.W. i W. to W.N.W. in 9 fathoms, 2 miles from the shore. In many parts the bottom is stiff mad, from which the anchor is extricated with difficaUy. The caation to anchor well oat, and to be always prepared to proceed to sen, is essentially reqaisite, for the gales generally commence at N.W., blowing strong fi-nin the land, with which an offing can be gained before the wind veers to N.E. and £., when it woald be impossible to do so. The most dangerous season for all the porU on this coast is from the beginning of October to the middle of December ; heavy gales have occurred in April and May, but not frequently. If a vessel is ready 1o weigh or slip, and gets to sea at the approach of the gale, little danger is likely to befal her, and it often happens that the wind is not so strong as near the land ; bat if she remain, she may possibly be driven on shore, with very little chance of saving even the lives of those on board. Ovrreata.— DiBiCTioKS : At the beginning and during the strength of the N.E. Monsoon, the current sets to the southward along the coast at the rate of H to 2 miles, eonseqnently the land should be made to the northward of Madras at that season ; this current slackens towards January. During the S.W. Monsoon, and generally aft»r the beginning of February, the current frequently sets as strongly to the northward, therefore the land should be made direct if possible, or even to the south of the port— «ay on a N.W. bearing — never to the nortliward of the port, at this period. Both the strength and direction of the current on this side of the bay of Bengal are however variable, and liable to uncertain changes. Cokmandeb R. Hobsok, H.M.S. ViffilatU, in a letter from Madras, dated August, 1864, reports, that durin^v; a passage from Cuddalore to that place, an unusually strong N.£.-ly current of at least 3 knots an hour was experienced. Madras Observatory is estimated, from a vast number of observattons, to be in Long. 80° 14' 19"6 E. The breakwater, commenced some time since at Madras, is now completed, and ships' boats hmd passengers there. »ii]leat m&OAla.— About 9^ miles N. by E. i E. from Madras is a conspicuous houao close to the sea, and .1^ miles south of a village ; this is Enore House, to the northward of which position commences a bank on which are the Pulioat shoals, that have always been so notoriously disastrous to shipping. The southern extremity of the bank is in Lat. 13° 15' N., whence it stretches in a general N. | E. direction to Lat. 13° 33' N., and on this bank the shoals lie in patches. The first dangerous patch is 2 miles long, in a N.E. i E. and S. W. i W. direction, its outer edge being about 2 miles from the shore, and having on it from li tu 2J fathoms water. The southern extremity is in Lat. 13° 16' N. ; its northern extre- mity, in Lat 13° 18' N. ; here the water breaks 1^ miles from the shore. The next patches are 3 miles more to the northward, in Lat. 13° 20^' N., extending about li miles in a N. by E. direction, and lie from 2 to 2^ mUes off shore; these have from 2^ to 3^ fathoms on them, and are very dangerous, inasmuch as there are 6 to 10 fathoms dose-to. Digitized by LjOOg le PULICAT AND ARMOGHAM SHOALS. 458 The northernmost patch of 3^ fathoms, in Lai 13° 23' K, lies ahout 8i miles off shore, with 4^ to 7 fathoms dose-to. Between the southernmost and middle patches there is a channel leading to Pull- cat road, but large ships should keep outside, and not shoal their water under 13 to 14 fathoms, which clean* all danger; then, if bound to Pulicat, haul in when the flagstaff bears W. by N., crossing the N. part of the bank in 6^ to 6 fathoms. The southernmost of the Pulicat shoals is 12 miles from Madras flagstaff, and the northernmost nearly 20 miles ; when passing along, they ^should not be approached under 16 to 17 fathoms for safety ; and if Madras light is visible, it should not be brought to bear to the southward of S.S.W. i W. The depths on approaching the bank decrease rapidly from 18 to 15, 11, 4^, and 4 fathoms. On the outer edge of soundings the depths are 40 to 50 fathoms at the distance of 18 to 20 miles off shore, and 18 to 20 fathoms 4 to 4} miles off. . Vnlleat roadateaa is 20|^ miles from Madras flagstaff. Xifflit. — A lighthouse exhibits a fi:ged red light, 56 feet above the sea, visible 6 or 7 mUei. Position.— Lat. 13° 25' N., Long. 80° 19' 40" E. Approaching Pulicat, when the light bears W. ^ N., you are to the northward of all the shoals. The anchorage is in 7 to 8 fathoms abreast of the lighthouse, 1^ to 2 miles off shore. The chain of mountains inland, known as Pulicat hills, has, near the southern end, a piece of flat table-land, usually called the Kettle Bottom, which bears West from Pulicat flagstaff, W. ^ N. from the middle of Pulicat bank, and W.N. W. from Enore house. Naggery Nose, in Lat. 13° 22' N., is another remarkable hill to the south- ward of the Kettle Bottom. From Pulicat to Poondy pomt, in Lat. 13° 47' N., the distance is 22 miles, and the coast is slightly concave. Off the point, shoal ground of 1 to 3 fathoms stretches to the S.E.-ward for the distance of 2 miles. Atmoghmm Bboal. — Immediately northward (N.N.E. 2 miles) of Poondy point, commences a bank which in some parts has not more than 1^ to 2| fathoms water on it. This is the Armogham bank, extending from Lat. 13° 48^' to 14° 7'N. It does not exactly follow the line of the coast, being 6^ miles off it at its northern end, while at its southern exti*emity it approaches within 1^ miles, nearly joining the shoal off Poondy point: its shoalest pai'ts lie between Lat. 13° 48^' and 13° 57' N. &lvbt.— Near the village of Moona or Moonapolium, 1 mile from the shore, there is a lighthouse, 95 feet high, showing tk fixed white light, visible 15 miles. Position. —Lat. 13° 52' 50" N., Long. 80° 12' E, This light is due West from the shoalest part (9 feet), which is 6 miles off shore, and where it occasionally breaks. On the outer edge there are from 7 to 10 fathoms, deepening to 28 or 30 fathoms 3 or 4 miles off. Blaekwood Barb«nr is the name given to the space included between the inner edge of the Armogham shoal and the coast ; it is from 3 to 4 miles wide, with depths varying from 4^ fkthoms near the shore to 6 or 7 fathoms contiguous to the edge of the shoal. The entrance is by the north end of the shoal, in not less than 6 fathoms, with Armogham hill bearing W. i S. ; and there is safe anchorage in the fine Mon- soon off the entrance to Armogham river, with the hill bearing W. : Digitized by ^ AS. There is ^yV^rOOgle 4U E. COAST OF INDIA. oiUn a haie on this part of the ooitt, partially olwoaring it, and making it appear more distant than it reall j is. The channel by the South of the shoal should not be attempted. Bound northward from Madras, do not approach the Armogham ahoal under 12 to Ufrthoms. Armogham hill is in Lat.U'' 3' N. ahMaa.«-Northward of the Middy river, in Lai 14° 15^' N., and thence to LaL 14P 24^ N., a bank of 2^ fathoms stretches to the N.E.-ward,— in some places 2^ miles off shore. From the parallel of IS"" N. and to False Divy point (in Lat 15° 46' N.), where the coast fixrms an extensive bight, there are several shoal spots inside the line of II fiithoms soundings, on what is known as the MootapoUi Baak. The most dan« gerous spot is tiie Mootapolii shoal, opposite Kuttowputtam, on the parallel of 15° 26' N., and 8 miles off the coast, having on it only2ifathoms water ; the patch lies N.E. and S.W. between Lat 15° 23^ and U"" 27', having on it from 4 to 6 fathoms ; inside this shoal there are others of 2^ to 3 fathoms, 3 miles off shore. The Mootapolii bank, which extends many miles around these shoals, ii generally of coarse sand and broken shells, and has on it overfalls in places. Passing here at night do not come under 20 to 24 frtthoms, nor under 15 fathoms during the day. Immediately outside this bank the depths shelve to 18 or 20 fathoms within a short distance, and to 60 fathoms 6 miles off. Wtaam Mvy Valnt is in Lat. 15° 45' N.,Iiong. 80^ 51' £. ; it is a low projecting flat, with an extensive mangrove jungle, through which the Kistna river discharges its waters into the ooean. The bank, of 3^ to 4 fathoms soundiugs, extends 4 and 4| miles off the coast hereabouts; thence the increase of depth is rapid to seaward, there being 15 fathoms 8 miles off the shore— and consequently the more dangerous, as a ship approaching the land shoals her water very suddenly. The coast is also fre- quently enveloped in hace, which gives a false appearance as to distance. POnrr VMVT is low, and bears N.£. by E. distant 20 miles from False Divy point. Ucbt.— Two miles to the N.W. of point Divy, in Lat. 15° 58' 55" N., Long. 81° 9' 30" E., there is a lighthouse 90 feet high, which exhibito a Jixed white light, visible when bearing North to S.W. by the westward, and may be seen to the distance of 12 miles. The ahoal flat which has been described in connexion with False Divy point extends to Divy pointi and thence to the northward beyond Masulipatam and Narsapoor pomt PATAM was at one time the principal place on the Coromandel coast ; it is still a populous town, with a very considerable trade. The fort is 1^ miles from the sea-shore. The coast is very flat all round the bay, and liable to inundation when the cyclone winds of the bay of Bengal make it a dead lee ahore. Ucbt.— A red light is exhibited from a flagstaff on the fort, at an elevation of 95 feeti visible from all parts of the sea horixon, to the distance of 7 or 8 miles. Position.— Lat 16° 9' 6" N., Long. 81° 8' 12" S. The Vmrt lBa«ra«ttMui (dated 1860), are to the following effect:— Two first- olass buoys have been laid down to mark the anchorage in Masulipatam roads ; a red buoy is placed in 3^ fathoms, with the flagstaff on the fort bearing West Digitized by LjOOQIC MASULIPATAM. 465 (northerly); and iu-shore, due West from ihe red buoj, is a whiU one, placed in 3 ikthoms low water. The best anchorajce at all times of the year will be in a line with the buoys ; but when strong westerly winds prevail, in May and June, ships should anchor to the southward of the buoys. Anoborace. — The best anchorage in Masulipatam roads is with the flagstaff bearing W. ^ N. to W.N. W.,— the ship's draught of water being the guide as to how close she may approach ; with the above bearings a vessel in 3^ fathoms will be about 3^ miles from the mouth of the river. Commanders should bear in mind that with these bearings the water shoals very gradually, and that coming in as close as the ship's draught admits will go far to expedite the loading or discharging of cargo, and lessen the cost of boat*hire. The holding ground in the roads is good, and with good ground-tackle a vessel may ride out very heavy weather. No cargo can be landed in ships' boats ; eby attempt to do so is attended by a penalty of 50 rupees and confiscation of boat. No ballast is to be thrown overboard in less than 10 fathoms ; nor is any to be discharged on the beach or elsewhere, from which it might be washed into the port } the penalty for infringing this is 200 rupees. BlgBsla.— When the surf is so high as to render communication with the shore dangerous, a red and white chequered flag will be hoisted at the Master Attendant's flagstaff; when the surf is impassable the first dietinguishing pendant will be dis- pUyed under that flag. Should a boat be urgently required during the night, three lights should be hoisted horizontally ; and in case of danger from fire or other causes blue lights should be burnt and guns fired. lUreotloiis* — ^A ship from the southward rounding Divy point in 6 to 8 fathoms (according to draught of vessel), after bringing Divy light to bear West, should make a northerly course, when she will carry regular soundings, shoaling gradually as she approaches Masulipatam ; great care, however, is neoessary, as the currents between point Narsapoor and point Divy are at times very strong, and the lead is the only sure guide. Vessels shoaling to 4 fathoms should haul to the eastward during the daytime ; as a ship approaches Masulipatam the flagstaff and buildings will be seen if the weather is at all clear. At night the light at Masulipatam will not be seen until 4 or 5 miles north of Divy lights Coming to Masulipatam from Madras, although a ship should keep in soundings, yet when passing Armogham and Mootapolli shoals during the night, these should not be approached under 20 fathoms. A memorandum by Mb. W. Blow mentions that the light on Divy point is very bad at times ; that the lead is the only guide for any vessel approaching this part of the coast, and that its indications ought to receive careful attention, as the sandbank off the point extends- much further out than laid down on any chart ; also, Masuli- patam light can scarcely be seen from the shipping, especially if the atmosphere is thick. vanapoor Point is in Lat. le"" 18' N., Long. Sr 42' £.; it bears N.B. by E. 36 miles from point Divy. Masulipatam is situated in the bight between tiiese two points and the bank of shoal soundings, which commences south of the parallel of 15^ N., terminates 12 miles to the N.E.-ward from Narsapoor point There is anchorage in Narsapoor roads in 4^ to 5) fathoms to the westward of the shoal that projects off the mouth of the river,— but the river itself is barred, . ^ ^ ^ . ^ Digitized by VjOOQIc 456 E. COAST OF INDIA. The coast from Narsapoor point to Grordeware point, in Lat. 16° 49* N., Long. 80° 20f E., is first N.E. by E. for the distance of about 27 miles, then N.E. for 14 miles, and lastly N. by E. for 9 miles. Bound Gordeware point and Hope island, to the westward, is Ooringa or Cocanada ba}'. COBOrOA Am COGAITABA. — ^The principal mouths of the Godaveiy river enter the bay of Bengal, in Lat. 16° 15' N. ; here there is an accumulation of sand- banks and mud-flats, a large proportion of which is flooded at high water. Having made Gordeware point or Hope island lighthouse, great caution is necessary in approaching the coast if bound to either Coringa or Cocanada; for not only are the banks and shoals dangerous, but it is quite possible hereabouts to misjudge distance from the land, owing to its being so very low. If not bound to either port, a ship in passing ought not to come under 20 to 30 fathoms. Xifflite. — ^The Gordeware or Godavery point lighthouse stands on the south side of Hope island; it exhibits a Jixed while light at an elevation of 73 feet above the sea, and is visible when bearing from South round by the westward to N.N.W. to the distance of 16 mUes. Position.— Lat. 16° 49' 5" N., Long. 82° 18' 26" E. The light- house is painted in horizontal black and white bands to distinguish it during the day from that on point Divy, which is white. A lighthouse has also been erected at Cocanada, as a guide for the anchorage ; it exhibits ^ fixed white light Bnojre have also been placed as a guide to Cocanada anchorage. Their position is as follows : — 1. The Outer, or Bell buoy bears from Hope island lighthouse N.E. J N. about 6 miles, and lies in 6 fathoms. 2. The Middle buoy bears from Hope island light- house N. by E. about 8 miles, and lies in 5 fathoms. And 3, the Inner buoy bears fVom Hope island lighthouse N. \ W. about 9 miles, in 3 fathoms. Vessels should on no account attempt to go inside, or to the southward and west- ward of any of these buoys. On approaching the Godavery or N.E. point of Hope island from the southward by night in the S.W. Monsoon, vessels should on no account attempt to round the point till the lighthouse on Hope island bears S.W. by S., and the Bell buoy S. by W. ^ W. ; and not come under 8 fathoms. They can then haul in N.W. \ N. in about 7 to 8 fathoms, and when Hope island lighthouse and Middle buoy bear S. by W. in about 7 fathoms, they can haul in N.W. by W. \ W., which will bring them past the Inner buoy — the lighthouse bearing S. \ E. The shipping in Cocanada roadstead will then be distinctly seen, and they can anchor with Hope island light- house from S. by E. ^ E. to S.S.E. in 4 to 6 fathoms, according to the vessel's draught. It is advisable for ships in the N.E. Monsoon to take up a position in the S.E. quarter of the anchorage, with the lighthouse on Hope island, bearing S. by E. to S. by E. \ E., and the tower of the new lighthouse at Cocanada S.W. by W., in about 6 fathoms ; and in the S.W. Monsoon, a little further to the N.W. in about 4 fathoms, with the lighthouse on Hope island bearing S. by E. ^ £. to S.S.E. and tower of the new lighthouse S. W. i S. (See also p. 459-460.) If captains would adhere to the above suggestions, communication with the shore and the shipping would be more readily obtained, and ships would be in a betff r position for getting under weigh when required, than they usually now are, and would be in smoother water for loading and discharging. Digitized by LjOOQIC Digitized by Google Digitized by,' Google CORINGA— VIZAGAPATAM. 467 Ships coming in the N.E. Monsoon during the night most pay erery attention to their lead and look out; and they are recommended, when approaching the shipping^ to anchor in 8 or 10 fathoms till daylight, when they can run in and pick up a berth as above recommended. Commanders should on no account throw ballast of any kind out of their vessels to the westward of a line with the Middle or large hlcuik buoy on with the lighthouse on Hope island bearing S. by W., and in not less than 10 fathoms, or they will incur a penalty for so doing. The Coringa river cannot be entered without a pilot; indeed, it is now dosed for large vessels, and these generally bring up opposite Cocanada. . Bound to either place from the northward, during the S.W. Monsoon, haul in to- wards the land when just south of the Dolphin's Nose, off Yizagapatam, and beat to windward as close along shore as possible ; not, however, coming under 12 to 14 fathoms, until past Wattara and Pentacotta (Lat. 17^ 19' K.)— the latter known by a conical hill a short distance inland. Here the coast may be approached to 9 or 10 fathoms; and when approaching Cocanada (within 10 or 12 miles), stand iu shore to 5 fathoms. During the N.E. Monsoon, there is a strong southerly current along this coast Bound from the southward, during the S.W. Monsoon, the land may be made about Narsapoor point, but do not come under 9 fathoms ; after which haul out, and do not make Hope island lighthouse under 12 or 14 fathoms. The coast is very dangerous hereabouts, and must be approached with caution* During the N.E. Monsoon, work well to the northward of your port. The bay is only open from N.E. to S.E. by S., and the anchorage is on good holding ground. Coringa is 10 miles southward of the anchorage off Cocanada. Pillar Bock.— In Lat. 17^ 26' N., Long. 82° 62' E., is the small town of Wattaba, near the entrance to a small river; N.E. by E. | E., and distant 9 miles from that pkoe is the Pillar rock, about | of a mile from the shore ; it is also 20 miles S. W.-ward of Yizagapatam ; its position is, Lat. 17"^ 29}' N., Long. 83"^ Oi' E. Flffeon XHaad, in a small bight on the coast, is in Lat. 17° 38' N., Long. 83° 13}' E. ; it being low, it is not seen until near it. , in Lat. 17° 42' N., Long. 83° 17' E., is distant 74 miles from Coconada roadstead in a N.E. by E. direction. The river is barred, and the sand shifting. From seaward, Yizagapatam maybe known by the bluff promontory on the S.W. of the roadstead, called the Dolphin's Nose. The village of Waltair is 3 miles to the N.£.-ward of the flagstaff. Anohorage. — ^In the N.E. Monsoon there is anchorage in 8 fathoms 1| to 2 mile^ off shore, with Waltair house on with the west side of Sugar-loaf hill ; and the top of Green-hill, open with the Dolphin's Nose. During the S.W. Monsoon, the anchorage for large vessels is in 8 to 9 fathoms, with the Bar battery bearing N.W. by W. ; the Sugar-loaf hill in one with Waltair house ; and Green-hill to the southward of the Dolphin's Nose ; small vessels may go into 6 fathoms. The anchorage further out in 11 to 12 fathoms cannot be recommended, for the bottom in those depths is stiff mud, and there is danger of losing the anchors. Between Coconada roadstead and Yizagapatam the coast is safe to approach to 14 Digitized by LjOOQIC 458 E. COAST OP INDIA. or 16 fathoms, within 2 or 3 milei off shore, but approaching Yizagapatam anchorage, the water shoali very rapidly. The land is higher in the Ticintty of Wattara and Yizagapatam than at Coringa and Cocanada, but at a short distance inland there is a oonspicuons ridge of monntaius nearly parallel with the coast. I is in Lat. 17'' 63' N., Long. 8^ 2,1' E., and lies 16 miles N.E.-wanL of Yizagapatam ; the anchorage is off the mouth of the riyer, in 6 to fathoms. During the N.E. Monsoon, it is advisable to anchor a little to the northward of the usual place of bring-up in the 8.W. Monsoon. THe saatlpUly Books.— About E.N.E. i N., distant 15 miles from the anchorage of Bimlipatam, and 5 miles from the nearest point of the coasts are the dangerous Santipilly rocks, having If fathoms least water on them. SIfflkt. — To mark the position of these rocks, a lighthouse has been erected on Conad(i hill, } of a mile from the coast ; it exhibits k fixed iokite light, at an eleva* tion of 150 feet above the sea, and is visible 14 miles ; its position is Lat. IBP 3^' N., Long. 83° 36V B.,— N.W. by W. i W. from the rocks. The centre of those rocks is in Lat. 18° 0} N., Long. 83° 42^' £. ; they me steep- to, on all sides, and their extent is not above 200 yards in length. When there la but little wind, and the sea is smooth, this shoal presents no indication by broken or discoloured water; as Libutxkant Fsll, when in search of it during very fine weather, brought the surveying brig Kruina to anchor within 100 yards of the rocks before he could observe the slightest appearance of a shoal. Proceeding in a boat over the rocks, 10} feet was found on the shoalest part, 7 and 10 fathoms on the eastern side, and on the western limit 10| fathoms, rocky bottom. Subsequently (1846) the Master Attendant of Madras (Captain Bidbit) sur- veyed the Santipilly rocks during fine weather, having a moderate breeze from S.W., with a ground swell ; the breakers were clearly discerned from the masthead •at the distance of 6 or 7 miles, bearing due South. When in 7 fathoms, about 2 miles off shore, SantipUly peak bearing W. by N., the breakers were soon afler {leen from the deck. Approaching the reef, which broke with considerable force, tbe vessel was anchored in 9} fathoms, coarse sand and shells, distant from the coast 3 miles, the reef bearing from S. 56° E. to S. 57° E., and distant 2 miles, Santipilly peak bearing N. 43° W. ; — latitude, by an indifferent observation, 18° V N. Two boats, under Captaix Cbawpobd, went to examine the reef, and from the vessel they carried regular soundings of 9 and 9^ fathoms, until within a quarter of a mile ; at less than 100 yards from the breakers, found 10^ and 10} fathoms rocky bottom. The breakers being too high to admit of the boats crossing the reef. Captain Cbawfobd pulled round it, and gave as his opinion that the shoal, which lies NJi.W. and S.S.E., is in circumference about a quarter of a mile, with 10 fathoms close*to all round ; from the surveying vessel the breakers seemed to extend the length of 200 yards. The Inner channel is safe for ships of every class, as soundings of 5 fathoms within a mile of the coast, and 9| faUioms within a ^ of a mile of the rocks, afford a dear space of nearly 4 miles in breadth. In fair weather, when Santipilly peak is visible, that lofty and remarkable land- mark affords an infallible guide to the true position of the Santipilly rocks; this peak is at least 2000 feet above the level of the sea, and presents a striking contrast Digitized by LjOOQIC SANTIPILLY BOCKS. 460 to all the hills in ite vidmtj; it beart N.W. firom the rooks, and the bas« of the moimtain is not more than 7 or 8 miles inland. In oloudy weather, when the peak may he obscnred, there are two remarkable hillocks dose to the beaoh, whioh are named the Great and latUe Conada, appearing like a saddle-hill at 3 milen S.W. from the anchorage already mentioned as near the rocks. The northernmost, or Little Conada hill, on which is the lighthouse, is not more than 7 a mile from the beach, and 160 feet above the level of the sea ; when it bore N. i W., the SantipLlly reef was then plainly visible from the deck bearing £. i N., distant 4 miles $ at the same time, Sanitpilly peak bore N. 29^ W., the vessel being in 8 fathoms about 2 miles oflr*8hore. But in thick weather, when no defined landmark is discernible, great care and caution become absolutely necessary in approaching the coast between Gai^am and Yisugapatsm. Change of current, and the absence of all means by night or day of obtaining a single observation, may, without strict and unremitting attention to soundings, place a vessel in imminent peril close to or upon the Santipilly rocks, which should not be approached from the eastward by day or night, under 17 to 20 fathoms. Later observations have not added to the information given above, with the ex- ception that the patch is rather larger than was supposed, and that it carries 7 to 8 feet least water; its Umits are Lat. 17'' 59i' to 18° 1^ N., Long. 83'' 41^ to 83''4B'E. The following Notes on Madbab, Cocakida, Yizaoapatak, Bihlipatav, and PoNDicHBBBT, are by Capt. Lewis Bilton, B.N.R. :— "Madnuif with the bright sun above, and the blue sea dashing in thunder on the beach, was delightful after the burning ghaut at Calcutta ; every one felt a sense of life and enjoyment he had long been a stranger to^a feeling which was experienced, more or less, all the time we were on the coast. Madras, with its park, museum, and many pleasant drives, is a place to remember ; there is more resemblance to home than in any other place I have seen in India. A railway is now in full opera- tion, running to Beypur, on the west coast. The station at Madras is equal to, if not superior to some of the best in England; the pier, which has been run out to facilitate landing, is nearly finished. I got all my cargo out by the 8th of May, and fixed my ship again to load a cargo on the coast at Cocanada, Yizagapatam, Bimli- patam, and Pondicherry, for London. I took the sand off the beach for ballast, which is supplied at about Bs. per ton, including boat-hire; the sea being very rough I had great difficulty in getting the boatmen to bring it off, but at length resolved to give no rice to any who did not bring ballast, otherwise I should have been detained an indefinite time. The sailing directions recommend anchoring in 9 fathoms ; a ship, however, would lose much time by doing so ; I went into 6 fathoms — close to the pier-— and found my advantage in doing so, by getting discharged quickly, as the boatmen will always flock to the nearest vessel — ^being paid by the trip. With one day's exception we had tolerable weather. The surf was high on the beach at times, but generally we could land cargo at some pier during the day. On the one day mentioned, the wind set in from the East and N.E., and after blowing a few hours and knocking up a terrible dust on shore, it veered round to the old quarter — vix., S.W.-ri ** 1 left Madras on the 9th of May, for OooMiaOftf arriving there on the evening of the 11th, and was obHged to anchor in the offing in 9 fathoms, on account of a Digitized by LjOOQIC 460 E. COAST OF INDIA. heavy north*westor, which came on as I was nearly in with the shippmg. There is a ^s^kA fixed light on Hope island, near Coringa, to guide ships clear of the dangers off cape Qordeware and the entrance of the river Qodavery— >which is one mass of sand banks and breakers. This is the only safe port on the extensive line of coast, during the S.W. Monsoon, and the anchorage b completely protected from the heavy sea which oonstanfly rolb along it at that season ; but in the N.E. Monsoon it must be equally bad. The harbour of Coringa is fast filling up, and no loaded vessel (of any size) can go there ; they have docks, however, and continue to build and repair ships ; and numbers of large native crafb are owned and lie up there during the S.W. Monsoon. *' A new lighthouse has been built at Cocanada, as a guide for the anchorage off that port I found Mb. Thompsoit, the Master-Attendant, very obliging. He in- formed me that Cocanada harbour is also rapidly filling up. Two piers have been built along the entrance of that branch of the river on which Cocanada stands, and every effort is made, by dredging, to keep the navigation open ; none but small vessels, however, enter the river. The shipping lie a long way from Cocanada, which is very inconvenient. There are no streets, that can be called such, in the place, nor, with the exception of about half a mile, is there a road on which a carriage of any description can drive. The town consists for the most part of native huts, and, indeed, the bulk of the trade is in native hands ; there are, however, a few European merchants (so called). There are two very indifferent hotels, and a small, neat church, but no parson, the collector (as at Karachi) being everything, and in addition to his regular duties acts as paraon and notary public. I was detained at this place from sheer neglect and carelessness on the part of those who ought to have facilitated my despatch. The shipper was a native, who seems to rule the place, and no one dared interfere with him ; to save a few rupees he was allowed to detain the ship in a most shameful manner. "I left Cocanada gladly, on the evening of the 26th, about 9 p.m., for Vtaagapatam, where I arrived next day about noon. The high mountainona coast of Orissa commences a little to the north of Cocanada, and is a good guide, from the offing, to make the port — in th& absence of observations. I found but one ship here— a Frenchman — loading seeds. I anchored in 9 fathoms outside of him — the land south of the Dolphin's Nose just open to the eastward of it, and the centre of Green hill bearing W. ^ N. ; a heavy swell was running along shore, and the ship rolling, gunwales under. The entrance to the inner harbour is by a small river, with a very bad bar. Here we had the Masoolah boats, each of which, -as at Madras, brings off 35 bags, and other goods in proportion, as established by a regular tariff, by the Master*Attendant, who is expected to see that they are kept in repair, and a sufficient number allotted to each vessel. The boatmen are the same merry, reckless fellows as at Madras, and their occupation is a hard and dangerous one. Finding the ship too far out, and detention in loading likely to oocnr there- from, I got under way, and stood out under easy sail to enable me to go further in shore ahead of the Frenchman ; when I had got off about 4 or 5 miles, the wind fell light and variable, and I was unable to reach the anchorage again till 9h. next morning, bringing up in 7 fathoms with 60 fathoms of cable — Dolphin's Nose S.W.iS., and centre of Green hill W.N.W. This is undoubtedly the best bertli for a large ship during S.W. Monsoon; but no part of the road is protected, conse- quently, a ship rolls fearfully, and much of the cargo gets very wet Inside the bar Digitized by LjOOQIC BIMLIPATAM. 461 there are about 4 fathoms in the river, and numbers of large native vessels were laid up there during the Monsoon, completely land-locked. The town is prettily situated* It is a military station, clean, and well-built, and the native houses had not that generally ruinous look so common in the East. There is bat one hotel here, kept by a native Christian, named David ; he and his brother are also Dubashes, and are vexy decent, honest, obliging men. The scenery around is magnificent, and I have seldom seen a finer view than is visible from the anchorage. "I had good despatch at Vizagapatam, and sailed again on June 2nd, for Blmlipatam, which I reached in 2^ hours, anchoring in 6 fathoms (with 50 fathoms of cable to the water's edge), the flagstaff in one with the Master- Attendant's office, bearing about W.N.W., and well to windward of all the other ships, of which I found four there. I found my advantage in every case on this coast in taking up a berth to windward of all the shipping, as the boatmen prefer coming to a ship in that posi- tion ; they can pull easily to windward when loaded, and get back easily after dis- charging; generally they are awfully afraid of falling to leeward. Also, should a cyclone set in, you are then to leeward of all the shipping, and can get to sea without danger of collision, as the wind generally blows from a direction opposite to that of the prevailing wind. Here they have about 40 Masoolah boats— too few for the number of ships frequenting the port I think the landing at Bimlipatam much better than that at Vizagapatam, as a projecting reef of rocks protects the landing- place, and a small outlay would make the port good in both Monsoons, by running out a short pier on the before-mentioned reef. I found the Master-Attendant, Mb. Mspfin, very obliging. " There is no light either at Vizagapatam or Bimlipatam, and ships occasionally run past them, causing a tedious beat to windward again, with an adverse current. Both are easily recognised, however, during the day : the former by the Dolphin's Nose and Pigeon inland, and the latter by a detached round hill, close to the beach, having a large and very old pagoda on the face of it, and a few scattered trees on the summit. Bimlipatam is built between the beach and this hill, on an inclined plane, and is very picturesque, though small and insignificant. The merchants, however, are effecting great reforms, draining and making good roads, and they are building a small church capable of containing about 150 sitters. There are two sugar refineries here, one belonging to Messbs. Abbttthkot and Co., of Madras, the other established by a Frenchman, but now stopped for want of ftmds. Bimli- patam is a place of considerable trade in sugar, seeds, hides, and horns. There are two hotels here, one French, the other English ; the latter, a very good one, is kept by a native, and is weU frequented. I got quick despatch here, notwithstanding that the weather was extremely unfavourable, with a heavy sea. Away again on the 11th June, bound to Pondicherry. I must here certify a matter which ought to be made known to ship-masters ; the Dubashes at Madras, and aU the other ports, will tell them that a ship can get no bazaar at Vizagapatam or Bimlipatam, and advise them to carry bullocks, sheep, and potatoes, &c. with them, having a view to their own emolument in supplying them. Tliis, however, is nonsense; every description of fresh provisions, except, perhaps, potatoes, are to be procured at both places, and at reasonable prices. " June 11th I sailed for Pondicherry, finding it a tough job working along the coast against the Monsoon and an adverse current, which ran about 36 miles a day totheN.£.| and had in addition heavy squalls at night, requiring ^nstonLp^e 462 E. COAST OP INDIA. attention. A ship working to windward along this coast, should not approach the land till near her destination, but keep about a degree off. By so doing, better weather is experienced, the current is weaker, and advantage can be taken of the shifts, to tack as the wind faTOurs her. I reached Pondicherry on the 22nd at day* break, and followed my usual custom of anchoring to windward, and well in, and found the advantage of doing so by getting off boats when no other ship conld. Here we have Masoolah boats again,-^and a heavy S.E. sea constantly rolling in on our port bow, rendering the ship very uneasy. Pondichen-y is a pretty clean town, and well laid out ; the streets all at right angles, wide, and kept in beautiful order, with an arenue of trees shading the side-walks, and even the centre in some of the wider ones ; the houses are spacious and well built. There is a good light here ; indeed, the lights along all this coast are good. Supplies, however, are neither so good nor FO reasonable as at the British ports ; and many articles required not to be got at all. A steamer from Calcutta touches here, and at all the other principal ports on the coast, and stores can be got down by her from Madras, every fortnight. There are two passably good hotels, which are generally well filled. Tliis was the first time in my life I ever had business with Frenchmen ; I found them very pleasant and Agreeable. There are seldom less than 14 or 15 ships in the road», and trade seems to be carried on with all parts of the world. They ship extensively indigo, blue cloths, rice, seeds, oil, ground nuts, hides, skins, horns, &c, ; they also send coolies to Mauritius and the West Indies. " I finished loading on the 8th July, having in two months, since leaving Madras, visited four ports, with awkward passages between them ; discharged about 500 lon^s of ballast, and loaded about 2000 tons of cargo, weight and measurement, in the face of many difficulties. A heavy thunder squall came on the evening previous to mj sailing, in which the ship dragged her anchor, which afterwards turned out to bo foul, and we narrowly escaped falling athwart a country ship, just bringing up in her liawse with a second anchor ; I was therefore obliged, next morning, to drop through the whole fleet, not having room to pass to windward, and the wind was very fsiint, with a high swell on our port bow, as usual ; I, however, got away safely, and out in the offing, when it fell dead calm till noon. The S. W. Monsoon was moderate at the bottom of the bay, but with the usual amount of squalls and rain." N.E.-ward from Conada point, distant about 18 miles, is Ohleaeole river ; the coast between is high, and may be approached to 10 or 12 fathoms at about 2 or 3 miles off shore. CaUnffapatam is, E.N.E.-ly, distant about 14 miles from Chicacole ; the sandy point, at the southern entrance of the river, is in Lat. 18° 19' N. It may be reoog* nised in clear weather by Garah hill, having a pagoda on its declivity, near which is a single tree ; a stone beacon, 64 feet high, has also been erected on the sandy point, — which is long and low, having areef of rocks extending -J- a mile seaward. There is aneboraffe in G\ to 7-^ fathoms, with the extremity of the sandy point bearing B.W. by S., distant 2 to 3 miles, and the highest upper-roomed house near the shore bearing from W.N.W. to N.W. by W., distant IJ to 2 miles. BapanapadoOf in Lat. 18° 34' N., is a small port 23 miles N.E. of Calingapatam ; the coast is low, — with a succession of sand drifts; the village, consisting principally ot* fishermen's huts and godowns, is marked by a column 50 feet high, standing near the beach, coloured bbick and white ; the usual anchorage is S.E. of ^e PQ^WI^ GANJAM— BLACK PAOODA. 468 ff in Lat. 18^ 4(y N., is 7 miles N.E. of Bapanapadoo ; it is marked by a white obelisk 60 feet high, to the eastward of which is a flagstaff 75 feet high ; also to the northward of the obelisk stands the traveller's bungalow. The three objects close together form good marks for the usual anchorage, which is S.E. by E. of the obelisk ; hereabouts several rocks project a considerable distance seaward. ■arwah, inLat 18^ 52}' N., is a small port 16 milesN.N.E. of Poondy ; to the S. and W. of Barwah are large topes of ooooa-nut trees ; to the northward is a plain of sand drifts. It is marked by two columns, coloured black and white, 50 feet high, and bearing N.W. from the usual anchorage. Soeimpoer. — ^This place, in Lat. 19° 5| N., is marked by a white obelisk and a white column, each 50 feet high, built nearly at sea-level ; at 120 feet from the column, and N.E. of it, stands the flagstaff, 75 feet high, and between the column and flagstaff is the Custom-house, all nearly at sea-level. The flagstaff bears W.N. W. from the anchorage. MoBAoorootialit or Clopaiilpor«« in Lat. 19° 13' K. ; the anchorage, 1} miles off the shore, is in 9} fathoms, bottom of sand and mud, with the flagstaff on the beach bearing about N.W. by W., and Saddle hill S.W. by W. } W.; closer in (in 7 fathoms) the bottom is sand, and the holding-ground not so good, and, in fact, too near the shore. In December, 1857, the Alnwick Ccutle (1200 tons), anchored in 9^ &thoms with the flagstaff bearing W.N.W. } W. During the S.W. Monsoon the anchorage is a little further out (in 9f fathoms), with the flagstaff about N.W. by W. In March the S.£.-ly winds are often very strong, and send in a heavy sea towards the shore ; the S.W. Monsoon blows alanff the land. At the periods of change — in October or November, and again in May or June — there is always bad weather here. Ott^jam is in Lat 19° 22' N. It is much frequented, and carries on a consider- able trade by means of coasting vessels, many of which can enter the river. The anchorage in the roadstead is abreast the fort or river's entrance, in 8 to 9 fathoms, 2 miles off shore. ' Between Calingapatam and Ganjam the coast may be approached to 3 miles in 12 to 14 fathoms. When coasting between Yizagapatam and Ganjam, a depth of 20 to 30 fathoms may be preserved with advantage when the wind is fair ; at 12 to 15 miles off shore the bank of soundings gives 40 to 45 fathoms, speedily deepening to no bottom. Though the coast is generally low, it is backed by a chain of high hills, which gradually approach the sea towards the north, near Lake Chilka. Maaikpfttam, in Lat. 19° 45' N., is distant about 42 miles N.E. by E. from Ganjam. The inlet leads to the north end of Chilka lake ; a sandbank is said to project 2 miles off the coast, the water shoaling suddenly from 10 to 4 fathoms. In passing do not come under 12 fathoms. The Tagvemaat 9agodaa are the most celebrated in India. At a distance, and when bearing W. by N., they appear as one building; seen to N.N.W. and N.W. they show as three distinct buildings ; the ground is low and well clothed with trees. Lat. 19° 48J' N., Long. 86° 48' E. The Blaek Fago«a, in Lat. 19° 52^ N., Long. 86° 6' E., stands by itself near the sea ; it is on low ground destitute of trees, though there are three clumps to the N.E. and one to the S.W. Coasting along, do not come under 16 to 18 fathoms, about 4 or 6 miles off shore, though the steep sandy health between the Juggernaut Pagodas and the Black Pagoda may be approached to 12 fathoms } bc^yji^ iS^H%¥^^^> 4M E. COAST OP INDIA. the lead must be used even with the greater depthn, as the first indication of danger during the night will be the noise of the surf on the beach. All these pagodas, when viewed from a distance, appear as a ship under sail, — in some directions as a ki^ black rock. Valae point bears N.E. i £., distant 48 miles from the Black pagoda ; it is low and wooded, with many outlying dangers near it, and several small sandy islets,— one of which, following the line of coast in a curved form, extends 8 miles. aUffbt.— About 2 miles S. W. of False point, in Lat. 20° 20 N., Long. 86° 45' E., a lighthouse 120 feet high has been erected, having a large white star in the centre ; it exhibits s^Jiaed white light visible 18 miles ; to verify their position, vessels should never come under 8 fathoms when making the light or lighthouse, after which they should haul out into 13 to 18 fathoms. In Valae baj* to the north of Falde point, the bottom is of soft green mud, shoaling very gradually to the shore. Falmyra point, in Lat. 20° 44' N., is fronted by shoals (Palmyra shoals) to the distance of 12 miles ; the lighthouse has been long washed away, being undermined by the sea ; on the shoals the depth varies from 1 to 4 fathoms, suddenly deepening to 10 fathoms. Bound to Balasore roads from False point, do not come under 12 to 14 fathoms ; when Palmyra shoals are rounded, if the wind be strong from S. or S.W. there is anchorage to the north of them in 10 fathoms, with good shelter. -To the N.W.-ward of Palmyra point is Kunka river, which is wide at its entrance, and navigable for vessels drawing 12 or 13 feet water ; but it is necessary to employ a pilot. It is much frequented by the coasting-vessels be- longing to the natives, who carry rice and various articles of trade from hence to Madras and other parts of the coast, during the favourable Monsoon. Latterly, vesitels belonging to European residents at Calcutta have been employed in convey* ing stores from Fort William to the Kunka, returning with salt, corn, and rice. Some native vessels from the Maldeeves trade to the Kunka. N.N.W. of the Kunka, distant 24 miles, is Cliiirinira river, or Chubbiwook Cbbbk, situated in a bay affording good anchorage to small vessels in the S.W. Monsoon. Balasore, in Lat. about 21° 30' N., was formerly a considerable town, but at present is only a mile lung, and half a mile broad in the widest part. It is built along the i-iver Boorabullung, the entrance to which is in Lat. 21° 28^. Boats from the Maldivh islands arrive in fleets of twenty or thirty, in the months of June and July, bringing with them the prodnce of their islands, consisting of com, cocoa-nuts, cowries, salt-fish, tortoise-shell, &c., and return in DecembSr, laden with broad-cloths, coarse cottons, cutlery, hardware, looking-glasses, rice, silk goods, sugar, tobacco, and other commodities, — the produce of Europe, India, and China. PIploy ift about 18 miles E.N.E. from the entrance of Balasore river. It is situated on the banks of a river, and is known by a pagoda to the west, and a thicket of trees very near it. Piplcy was once the mart of this country; but the waters washing away a great part of the town, atjhe same time that a dangerous bar was formed at the mouth of the river, the merchants removed to Balasore. Digitized by Google * THE HOOQLY OR CALCUTTA EIVER. 466 •The prormoe of Bengal is intersected by the Qanges, whiok in its lower conrie joinii the Brahmapootra. About 600 miles from the sea, the Ganges ia deep and rapid, bat m its progress seaward it widens, becomes more sluggish, and separates into a vast number of streams^all which causes com- bined, depiire it of the force necessary to sweep away the banks of sand and mud thrown across its mouth by strong southerly winds. The delta of the Ganges com- mences about 300 miles from the sea, reckoning the windings of the river, and the Hoogly, on which is the port of Calcutta, is formed by the union of two of its westerly branches. That part of the delta bordering on the sea is composed of a labyrinth of rivers, creeks, and inlets, all of which are salt except those that immediately commu- nicate with the principal arm of the Ganges. This tract, which presents a sea front of 250 miles in a direct line nearly East and West, is known as Uie Snndertranda i it consists of a multitude of low islands covered with jungle, and from which project the low and dangerous banks which make the navigation hereabouts so precarious. It would be a work of supererogation to minutely describe either the banks or ohanneb of the Granges, or any of its branches ; they are sulject to such great and rapid changes that a good chart and accurate local knowledge are at all times neces- sary for their navigation. A pilot ia required for the Calcutta river. ENTRANCE TO THE HOOGLY OR CALCUTTA RIVER. SIgliti* — ^Five lights mark the entrance to the Hoogly :— 1. The Pilot Ridgx Lightvbssel, a brig, is moored in 21^ &thoms during the 8.W. Monsoon, from March 15th to September 15th : it exhibits a fixed, white light from the fore yardarm ; a blue light is burnt evexy hour, and a maroon at the interme- diate half hours ; a gun is fired when a vessel is visible. Position. — ^Lat. 20^49' 30" N., Long. 87® 4fy E. 2. The LowBB LiGHTVES8EL,at the entrance to the eastern channel of the Hoogly, is moored in 7^ fathoms, and exhibits a fixed white light ; a blue light is burnt evety half hour, and a maroon every quarter of an hour, commencing at 7h. p.m. during the S.W. Monsoon, from March 15th to September 15th; dnring the N.E. Monsoon, from October to March, a maroon or torch is burnt every half hour, and a blue light every hour. Position.— Lat. 21° 3' 30" N., Long. 88° 12' E. ,— but during the S.W. Monsoon, the vessel is moored in Lat. 21° N. 3. The UpFBB LiOHTVSSsxL in Gaspar channel, N. by W. 25 miles from the Lower Lightvessel, and S. 16° E. 12 miles from Saugor light, is moored in 3^ fiithoms ; it exhibits a fixed white light, and blue lights and maroons are burnt at intervals throughout the night Position.— About Lat. 21° 26' 15" N., Long. 88° 5' 20^' E., but it is slightly altered as the channel shifts. 4. Sauoob island lighthouse is on Middleton point, the S.W. extremity of Saugor island, 200 yards from low-water mark ; it exhibits a fixed white light, JUuhing every 20 seconds, at an elevation of 88 feet above the sea, and is visible 15 miles. Position.— Lat. 21° 38' 43" N., Long. 88° 2' 10" E. 5. Cowcx>LLT, or Kaokali lighthouse is 2 miles S.W. of Kedgeree point ; it ex- hibits 2k fixed white light sft an elev4tion of 62 feet above the sea, visible 15 miles : it is now used ait an anchoring light. PosiUon. — Lat. 21° 50' 12" N., Long. 87° 67' 47" E. ^ ^ For a description of the lightvessel at the entrance to the Mutlah river, see p. 470. Vldea. — ^The tides in the channels have a rotatory movement with the sun : first- H H 466 £. COAST OF INDIA. quarter flood W,N. W., ronnd by North to the last quarter E.N.E. ; fimt^qnarter ebb E.S.E. round by South to the last quarter W.S. W. The strength of the tide runs in the direction of the channels N.N.W. and S.S.E., about 3 knots at springs, and 1^ at The Pilot's Bidob is the bank of soundings— shelly sand and gravel— varying from 15 to 20 fathoms, lying to the S.W.-ward oF the Pilot's Bidge lightvessel. The Wbstbait CHunrsL lies between the Wbstebk and the Eastbbit Sba Bbbm; southward of the entrance is the principal pilot's station. The Eastebit Chavkbl is between the Eabtbbn Sba Bbsf and Saugob Savd ; at the entrance ia the Eastern Channel lightvessel. Oa««l0B«— S«iattag of Blgiuaa by VomoIs ptuOam Mgasl IMftttoiiai— 1. The master of every inward or outward bound veesel, on arriving within signal distanoe of any signal station established within the limits of the river Hoogly, or within the limits of any channel which may be made sulgeot to the provisions of Act XXn. of 1855, shall, on the requisition of the pilot who may be in charge of the vessel, signify the name of the vessel by hoisting the number by which she is known, or by adopting such other means to this end as may be practicable and usual, and shall keep the signal flying until it be answered from the signal station. 2. Any master of a vessel arriving as aforesaid, who shall refuse or neglect to conform to the above rule, shall be liable on conviction, for each instance of refusal or n^lect, to a fine not exceeding 1000 rupees. 3. Every pilot in charge of a vessel shall require the number of the ressel of which he is in charge to be duly signalled as provided under section I. of this Act. When, on a requisition from the pilot to that effect, the master of a vessel, not employed in the service of Government, shall refuse to hoist the number of a vessel, or to adopt such other means of making her name known as may be practicable and usual, the pilot in charge of such vessel may, on arrival at the first place of safe anchorage, anchor the vessel in question, and refuse to proceed on his course until the requisitioo shall have been complied with. 4. Any pilot in charge of a vessel, who may be proved guilty of neglect to obey or of connivance with the master of such vessel in disobeying the provisions of this Act» shall be liable to a penalty not exceeding 500 rupees for each instance of neglect or connivance, and in addition shall be liable to dismissal from his appoint- ment. 5. This Act shall be taken and read as part of Act XXII. of 1855, and the penal- ties provided by this Act shall be recoverable under section 55 of that Act. Tlie raot*a Station is a little to the southward of the south buoy, which lies in 12 fathoms at the entrance to the Western channel into the Hoogly, and bears firom False point lighthouse N.E. by E. i E., distant 83 miles. Vessels approaching the •station during the day must show the usual signal for a pilot, and by night fire guns, bum blue lights, and exhibit two lights in a vertical position where best seen ; but avoid as much as possible running for the station at night, or in threatening bad weather ; under such circumstances put the vessel under snug canvas while well out in deep water, and keep the sea. To mark the station one of the pilot vessels will show during the day a large flag {white with red cross) at the maintop-gallant mast- head, and a good masthead light at night, and will burn a blue light and torch alternately every half hour, and fii-e a gun at 8 f.m., at midnight, and at 4 a.h. Digitized by Lrioogle THE HOOQLY OB CALCUTTA ElVER. 467 In the N J). Monsoon the pilot ressok are found at the entianoe of the Eaatern channel, and they generally anchor on the Eastern Sea reef at night, or daring the flood in the day. Blreotloiw.— With the lighthouse on False point, bearing W.S.W. 12 or 16 miles, steer E.N.E. so as to increase the soundings from 13 to 23 fathoms, when some of the pilot vessels are sure to be met with. If a vessel gets accidentally on the tail of any of the Sea reefs, she ought to tack and haul off immediately into deep water, or anchor until the ebb tide enables her to work to the southward; the sea runs high upon the reefs in the S.W. Monsoon. Mr. D. Bobsbtson, the Master Attendant at Oalcatta^ gives the following direo- tions :— A vessel after making the lighthouse on False point (in passing which she onght not to go into less than 12 fathoms), should bring it to bear about W.S.W.i 10 or 16 miles distant, when she will be in 11 or 12 fathoms ; and then steer E.N.E., when the soundings will gradually increase to 23 fathoms on the eastern edge of the Pilot's ridge. She should then regulate her course so as to keep between the ridge and the depth of 27 fathoms; when, by attention to the lead and to the nature of the soundings, as well as to the course and distance run, it will be almost impossible to avoid making the pilot-vessels, as their cruising ground is immediately to the N.E. of the light-vessel, which, during the S.W. Monsoon, is stationed close to the buoy on the ridge. The soundings to seaward of the ridge are, in general, a greenish or olive-coloured mud, with (occasionally) a few bits of broken shells among it; while those on the ridge are of a shelly sand, or minute gravel, of a reddish or rusty- brown colour. Vessels approaching the station are warned to be careful in avoiding colli.sion, when either communicating with the light- vessel or the supplying pilot- vessel ; and on making the former at night they are recommended to heave-to, at a proper distance, till dayUght, by which they will avoid the probabDiiy of passing the supplying pilot-vessel in the darkness of the night. IMreotiona Ibr Approftelilng the Movtb of tbe Siver Hooglyi Bound to Calcutta in tJie strenffth of the S. W, Monsoon the land should be made about Poondy, Lat. 18|^, or between it and Ganjam, where it is high, for in the latter part of March, or early in April, the weather is generally hazy, from which cause the land cannot be discerned, unless it is very near ; a vessel certainly ought not to get to the northward of the Juggernaut pagodas before getting in with the coast. When to the northward of 18^ N. and the vessel's position is not correctly knowui haul in and sight the coast. In the night or in thick weather the lead will be a good guide if attended to with care ; for although the bank of soundings extends but afeW leagues from the coast, there is generally from 30 to 36 fathoms about 6 or 9 miles off, between Poondy and the Black pagoda ; about Ganjam the water shoals fast under 20 fathoms towards the shore. When the position is known, steer along the coasts (keeping in 18 or 20 fathoms in the night, or with unsettled weather) until abreast of Mauikapatam ; then if it be daylight and the wind favourable, haul into 14 or 15 fathoms to sight Juggernaut and the Black pagodas in passing ; — they will be seen in hazy weather when in 17 or 18 fathoms, but with a commanding breeze the coast may be approached with safety to 12 or 13 fathoms, about 3 or 4 miles from the shore. At night do not come under 16 fathoms, nor deepen above 17 or 18 fathoms^ for the coast is low and sandy close to the sea, and it will not be seen unless cbse to HH2 Digitized by L^OOgle 4.G8 E. COAST OF INDIA. it, and in h«zy weather Uie uoue of the surf on the beach woald probably be the first indication. When about 10 milet past the Black pagoda, steer so as to obtain proper soundiiigH off False point. . The depths decrease gradually towards the bank surrounding False point, but keep in 14 or 15 fathoms at night when passing it, or in 16 fathoms if the wind is S.E. As the flood inclines towaxds the shore, and the ebb from it, It and 15 fathoms are good depths to preserve with a fair wind when steering from False point. (For the description of the light on False point, see p. 464.) When False point bears W.N.W. and the vessel in 14 or 15 fathoms, steer N.E. 30 miles to pass outside Falmiras reef, keeping in 14 or 15 fathoms with a com- manding breeze, or in 16 fathoms if the wind is S.E. If blowing strong from the S.W. in rounding Palmiras reef in daylight, a vessel may steer along the edge of it in 12 or 14 fathoms, taking care not to approach the north-east part under 12 or 13 fathoms, where it is dangerous and steep-to under 10 or 11 fathoms. When paxt the reef she may haul to the N.W. and anchor to the northward of the Mypurra saud, where she will be sheltered from the sea by the reef. False point has some- times been mistaken for Palmiras point, and the latter sometimes for the former, whereby several vessels in the first case have been wrecked by hauling into False boj instead of Balasore bay, and others have got to the eastward of the Sea reefs by keeping too far off shore. A lighthouse being now on False point, this can rarely bo the case. If the coast or the pagodas have not been seen, and in steering along in 14 or 15 fathoms, the bottom is sand, shells, and black specks, which are thought to be those off False point, but uncertain whether they may not be those off Palmiras point, tlien bear in mind that the water will not deepen in steering N.E. from the depth of 15 fathoms off False point, but in steering that course from the depth of 15 fathoms on the edge of the bank off Palmiras reef it will deepen gradually to 17 and 18 fathoms ; a vessel ought then to steer N.N. W. or N.W. until the soundings are 16 or 17 fathoms, in which depths the pilot vessels generally anchor at night in Bula- sore roads during the S.W. Monsoon. The above directions are given while the Monsoon prevails steady from the S.W. and westward ; but towards the close of the Monsoon, or in September, this ronte is likely to cause inconvenience and delay, for the wind then often hangs to the east- ward, and the current sets strong to the S.W. through False bay. During that month, if the latitude can be observed, or the lighthouse or light on False point can be recognised, there can be little occasion for making the land so far to the southward. During the N.E, Monsoon a vessel will generally have to beat up the bay. Allcr passing about 100 or 150 miles to the westward of the north-west coast of Sumatra, the west side of the Nicobar islands may be approached. If the wind inclines to keep to the westward, give the islands a good berth ; if at E.N.E. or N.E. steer np the bay, close hauled, to the westward of the islands. On the parallel of 16° or 17° N. the wind oflen veers to the northward, and favourable tacks may then be made to the eastward, at times, to keep from the western coast of the bay. Neither should the eastern coast be approached, but vessels should work to the northwai*d in the open sea, where there is smooth water and moderate breezes, which will enable them speedily to reach the Sea reefs, at the entrance of the Hoogly. Digitized by LjOOQIC THE MUTLAH RIVER. 469 It has frequently happened in the streng^ of the N.E. Monsoon, that vessels, by passing dose along the western coasts of the Nicohar islands, have reaohed the Sea reefs without making a taok. If the equator is crossed late in February or in March, keep well to the westward in passing up the bay, for the current at that time runs to the northward along the Coromandel coast, and the winds will be found between S.W. and S.E. ; in the middle of the bay they are light and variable from N.W. to N.E. during these months, with a drain of current at times setting to the southward. The BKDT&AB SXVBB. — Within the last few years a new port (Post Oak- king) has sprung up in the Mntlah branch of the Ganges. It is thus spoken of by Capt. W. S. F1TZ8IUOK8, of the Fuhoood :^ " I will now point out to yon the advantages which I experienced there last year (1S58), and what they are as compared with those of the Hoogly. When I arrived at the Sand Heads I found a pilot brig doing duty as a lightvessel ; on speaking her, it appeared they had no pilots on board for the river. Seeing that was the case, I immediately made sail, and proceeded upwards by the Bulcherry channel ; while proceeding through the Channel, made the buoys out distinctly, and after passing through between the Western Spit buoy of the Roymutlah Sand and the Bulcherry Sand, we anchored for the night a little to the northward of No. 3 Bul- cherry buoy^. At daylight the following morning weighed anchor and proceeded northward for the entrance of the river. When abreast of Halliday island we got a pilot on board, and continued on all day with a light wind, and in the evening passed the Cattalee, and anchored for the night off Ward's point. Now, one thing I would point out to you in our progress upwards was the absence of any obstruction in the shape of bars or shoal places in any portion of the Channel, and the facility with which we entered the river. Take the entrance of the Hoogly and compare them, where you most probably would not have got over the Gaspar sand until you very likely would have had to anchor (for the flood-tide coming in to allow you to pass over), obstruction first, in one of the most exposed anchorages known to seamen ; then, again, you have Lloyd's Channel, another stopping-place, if you had not a strong favourable wind, or a powerful steamer to assist. Next in turn comes tlie RangafuUa, most probably another stoppage. In all of these places a ship is lying much exposed, and very likely sheering about in a strong tideway. All these places are a much less distance from sea than we got during our first day's progress with very light winds. See the delay which has already taken place in a ship's progress thus far up the Hoogly, where a ship will have had the assistance of an experienced pilot all the time. Then, again, see the advantages which ships have in hard weather during the S.W. Monsoon on amving at the Sand Heads. Where, when bound to the Hoogly, a ship comes on the pilot station, and no pilots out (which is a frequent occurrence), she is signalled to from a pilot vessel that they cannot put a pilot on board, or that there are none on the station, and the vessel is recommended to stand to sea again, probably continuing that way for several days, or until the weather moderates sufEiciently to enable them to place a pilot on board ; and it fre- quently occurs that ships have to proceed to sea even with a pilot on board. Compare all these with the channels leading to the Mutlah, and you will see that it will not often occur, in which a perfect stranger to the place.^ mjiy^QHr|^|Common 470 THE MUTLAH EIVEE. pnidfliuse, proceed npwardsi and be able in a few hours to have hia abip in safety. " Theni agiiii, without particularizing the upper parts of either, you take the chart of the Matlah, you will nowhere find less than 4^ fathoms water in the proper channel, even at dead low water spring tides, as high up as EUengunge. Although I acknowledge it to be necessary, when proceeding up or down from Cattalee in a large ship deeply laden, to liave the assistance of a steam tug, yet as she will be able to proceed with all safety from morning to evening without stopping, a vast expense of time and money is saved. Then, again, the tides run with little more than half the velocity which they do in the Hoogly ; you will be able to acknowledge it Uj be a much safer navigation ; you will be able to recollect that I had a steamer round from Calcutta to tow the Fulwood to sea, and I believe her to have been one of the poorest boats belonging to Calcutta, yet she took the ship to sea in much less than two days, although the wind was blowing strong from the southward nearly all the time. I can with all confidence assure you that there are few such navigable rivers as the Mutlah without having some great drawback to their safe navigation." SIglit.— 'A temporary lightvessel has been moored in 9 fathoms; it exhibits a fi99d white light, visible 7 miles. A red flag is shown at the mainma Digitized by ' CHITTAGONG AND AKYAB. 473 out; thig custom may still be followed, although the recommendation to anchor does not appear to be good, as there is a very heavy, short, breaking sea, dangerous to small vessels when the wind blows with any strength. The Fakir's tree, thick and bushy, is situate at about 3 miles southward of the entrance to the Chittagong, and is easily recognised, being close to the shore. Xootabaeoli Zftlaad.— At about 18 miles southward from the Chittagong river is the north end of Eootubdeah, a low wooded island, which extends southward 13 miles in a direction parallel to the coast from which it is separated by a narrow but difficult channel of 8 fathoms to 9 feet. Uffliw— A lighthouse near the north end of the island shows 2k fixed light, visible from a distance of about 16 miles. Following the coast southward from Kootubdeah island, we pass Matrabari and Musoal isknds, which are also separated from the shore by a narrow channel sufficiently deep to be navigated by native vessels. The west and south coasts of Kootubdeah island are dangerous to approach, as foul ground extends from them a considerable distance. These reefs are rendered the more dangerous by the circumstance that there is a depth of so much as 10 and 8 fathoms dose to their outer edges, decreasing seaward to 6 and 6 fathoms at about 7 leagues westward from them. From the south end of Kootubdeah island, the south extremity of the Kootubdeah reef (10 feet) bears S. by W. \ W. 12 miles. The reef surrounding Muscal islands extends from the south end of the southernmost and largest island about 7 miles. In lat. 21° 20' there are some white sandy cliffs, which are valuable as a landmark ill fine weather when the sun shines brightly upon them, as although they have not much elevation, they can then be seen from a distance of 15 to 18 miles. LTAB. — ^The principal mouth of the Aracan river, that which forms the port of Akyab, is in Lat, 20° 5' N., and Long. 92° 52^ E. It is here 2} miles wide, reckoning from Fakir point, on the north shore, to Hodge point, the north end of Borongo island, on the south shore ; but the navigable channel has a breadth of less than a mile, being narrowed by reefs from each shore. On the edge of the southern reef, and in nearly the middle of the river, there is a small islet, named Savage island, upon which is a lighthouse. The bar of Aracan river, according to the survey of 1868, has soundings upon it of 12 feet to 6 fathoms at low tide. Having crossed this, the depth increases to 10 and 20 fathoms, the last being in the middle of the stream, immediately opposite Savage island ; thence it rapidly decreases to 3 and 4^ fathoms off the town of Akyab, which is situate on the western bank at about 2 miles from the sea. Aracan river, like other barred rivers on this coast, brings down large quan- tities of soil in the rainy season, and the banks at the entrance are subject to frequent changes; hence strangers must obtain a pilot's (usisianee when bound in. Uglit. — ^The lighthouse on Savage island, on the south side of the entrance to the river, shows sl fixed light at 106 feet above the sea, visible 12 to 14 miles. A light- house was also building in 1859 on the table land of Borongo island, at about 6 miles south-eastward from Savage island ; this, we believe, is now lighted. When approaching the port of Akyab from north-westward there are some dan- gerous reefr, situate at various distances from the coast, which require great care to Digitized by VjOOQ iC x-^s^ 474 BAT OP BENGAL; E. COAST. ayoid. These are ntmed St. Martiu'i, Asseergorh, Oyster Island, and Oyster Beef;-* the two last-mentioned reefs lie about 9 miles from the shore, and in the immediate vicinity of the port. St. MCutla'a Beef;— This reef is in Lat. 20° 87|' N., and Long. 92P 14! £. It has not been thoroughly examined, but is believed to be of oonsiderable extent in a N. by W. and S. by E. direction. The depth close to its western edge is abont 10 fathoms, and close to its eastern edge about 8 fathoms, which thence gradually de- creases to the reef surrounding the shore of St Martin's island, about 6 miles distant. Its position is usaally indicated by breakers. When in the vicinity of this reef the ship should be put about immediately the soundings become less than 20 fathoms. Aaseergiirli Beefi— Upon this reef there is a depth of only 8 feet at low tide ; it is consequently sufficiently shallow to endanger even a small vessel. It is situate C miles from the shore, in Lat. 20^ 28' N., and Long. 92° 80^ B., at about 9 miles south-eastward from the south end of St. Martin's island. Close to its western edge are soundings of 7 and 8 fathoms, and there are soundings of 7 fathoms immediately off its eastern side, which thence gradually decrease to the bank bordering the shore. Breakers generally indicate the position of this reef. A bank of 3^ to 6 fathoms exists between the Asseergurh reef and St. Martin's island, upon the northern end of which there is a rock,-*we believe, awash. Oyster Xalana mnA Beef; — Oyster Island is a small islet situate in Lat 20° IS' N. and Long. 92° 32^' £., and distant about 10 miles from the mainland. It is, or was, covered with brushwood, and is said to be visible from a distance of 6 or 6 miles. Vessels can pass between this island and the coast, as there is a deep channel of 6 to 6 fathoms, but a shallow fiat extends off from the land at least 4 miles ; hence the passage inside the island is not recommended, and vessels bound to Akyab alioays keep outside, passing the island on its west side. The shallow flat fronta the entrance of the river Myou, and forms the bsr to that river; thence it continues south-eastward along the shore, and fronts also the Aracan river. The shoal or reef surrounding Oyster island extends from its east, north, and west sides about a mile, but on its south-east side about 3^ miles ; its direction therefore corresponds with the coastline. The depth on the shoal is 4 to 12 and 18 feet, and its edge is steep on all sides except the south-east, where the soundmgs probably increase gradually to 4^ and 5 fathoms. To avoid this reef vessels should not approach its west .side nearer than a depth of 16 fathoms. Oyvter Seef. — This is a dangerous reef of 4^ to 10 feet at low tide, situate in Lat 20° 6i' N. and Long. 92° 38V E., or about 14 miles West from the lighthouse on Savage island at the entrance to Aracan river. It is probably not more than 1^ miles in extent N.N.W. and S.S.E., and has soundings of 6 fathoms almost dose to it; at 2 miles westward from it the depth is 12 fathoms. Its position is generally indicated by breakers except in fine weather during the N.E. Monsoon. So formi- dable is this reef to vessels approaching or leaving Akyab, that it should always have a wide berth. It has been proposed to moor a lightvessel off its south end. Beekftnrd SbesO.— This shoal is inserted in charts on the authority of Ms. K. Hbckfobd, of the Mercantile Marine, who discovered it in 1855, and described it as follows : — " Heckford's shoal (composed of rock, coral, and pebbles), is 13 miles S.W. ^ W. from Savage island lighthouse ; W. by S. i S. from the table-knd of Borongo island and WJf.W. from the south extremity of that island. It has 4]^ fathoms upon it Digitized by VjOOQTC AKYAB. 476 (probably less), is in tbe direct track of vessclB, and is snrroQnded by the following (mnd and mixed) soundings — ^viz., 20 fathoms 1| miles to the westward and south- ward of it, 15 to 13 fathoms to the eastward* and 12 to 13 fathoms 2 miles from its north-east end; shoaling towards Oyster reef. Commanders of yessels of heavy draught are therefore advised to be particular in the bearing of the table-land when ap- proachiug it from the westward, and warned not to pass over the shoal, as the light- house is not visible when you are close to the south-west of it." Although it has been mentioned that Aracan river should be entered only with a pilot's assistance, the changes of the bar being frequent, we add the following in- structions (copied from the Admiralty chart of the river, No. 1884» ed. 1865), as they may be useful in an emergency :— '* Ships of heavy draught coming from the westward in the south-west Monsoon, should steer East for the Table lighthouse until Savage island lighthouse bears N. by W., then haul up for it, and when abreast of the Bar buoy steer N.N.W. i W. until Passage rock bears E.N.E., when haul over to the north-eastward for the anchorage. A vessel may anchor with the Savage light S.S.W., or the North and South Hummocks in one, in 5 fathoms. The deepest water for large ships is off the Cherogea creek, within 70 yards of the shore. "An excellent and safe passage for boats and small schooners is found between Savage island and the north end of Borongo island, sheltered from all seas in the south-west Monsoon. " CMwtloii.— "When .coming in with the flood, great care is required in allowing for it, as it sets right on to the White rocks. In coming out with the ebb tide, keep as close to these rocks as prudence will allow, in order to prevent being set on the western bank." A reef projects from Fakir point, the north side of the river, some distance in a south-easterly direction, the extremity of which is, we believe, marked by a buoy ; upon it are some rocks above water. The official instructions for entering the river, issued in 1844, say : — " Ships sailmg for Akyab during the south-west Monsoon should steer for the south end of the western Borongo, in Lat. 1^ 50^ N., Long. 93^ 1' E., and then stand along the coast northward and westward at 6 or 6 miles off shore until the light on Savage island at the entrance of Aracan river is sighted." (Here follow instruc- tions for entering, which are superseded by those just given). " Having entered the river. Fakir point should be brought to bear N.W. by N. to N.W., when you may anchor. A stranger should not attempt to run in at night, particularly in the rains, except at high or low water, as the ebb tide runs very rapidly in strong eddies off the Passage rock, over the dangerous flat to the westward, and the flood in strong eddies upon the rocks. " During the north-east Monsoon ships bound to Akyab from northward, should endeavour to make the table land of the western Borongo in Lat. 20° 1' N., then by steering due East they will avoid the Oyster reef in Lat. 20° 5' N., Long. 92° 38i £., which is distant &om the Savage light fldeen miles due West. This course is recommended, as, although in favourable weather, Savage light is seen outside the reef in 16 to 17 fathoms water, the depth suddenly decreases, and the probability of hazy or rainy weather would prevent the light being seen ; and steering boldly in to sight it, to the northward of Lat. 20° 1', would endanger the safety of the vessel by suddenly falling upon Oyster rock or reef before sighting the Jjg*f*|5fg*^oOQ IC 476 BAY OP BENGAL; E. COAST, " Strangers are advised nerer to make une of the channel inside of Oyster rock or reef." The Bonth end of western Borongo island has a reef extending from it about 3 miles in a southerly direction, upon parts of which the sea breaks when there is a swell. The water is very deep dose to the edge of this reef, soundings having been obtained there of 16 and 18 fathoms. Terrible Seeks. — This very dangerous group of rocks extends from Lat. 19^ 21 J' N., and Long. 98° 17V E., to Lat. 19° 28f N., and Long. 93° 20' E. It is distant from the nearest shore (north end of Bamree island) about 11 miles, and at about midway between there is a shoal of 2 to 4 fathoms, named Irawaddy. At a mile westward of the rocks the depth is not less than 18 fathoms; hence they require the utmost care to avoid when sailing down the coast. It has been proposed to erect a lighthouse on the south rook. The Terribles consist of three groups of rocks, extending in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction, some of which are about 14 feet above the water at low tide ; between and around them, or scattered about in their vicinity, are many rocks under water. The northernmost reef is probably at 1} miles northward from the northern rock, and the southernmost reef at about the same distance S. by E. from the southern rock. From the north rock the high peak of Nondogee island (Combermere bay) bears N. 49° E.(^r«€)19i miles. The Terribles were partially examined in 1811 by Couhindbb Halbteid, R.N., by whom soundings of 18 and 19 fathoms were obtained at If miles westward from the south rock ; this depth is believed to increase gradually seaward, bottom having been obtained in 20 fathoms at 9 miles West from the same rock. Until there is a more complete survey of the rocks, a nearer approach to them than 30 or 28 fiithoma should not be made at night. the S.W. extremity of the coast of Ava, is situate in Lat. 16° 1\' N., and Long. 94° 13^ E. The high land in the vicinity and northward of the cape is visible from a distance of 27 or 30 miles. No part of this coast has been thoroughly examined, hence it will be prudent when running down it from north- ward to keep outside the depth of 12 &Uioms, by adopting which course, a ship (ac- cording to the chart of Capt. Cbawfobd, of the Bombay Marine) will go clear of danger. At about 6 miles S.S.E.-ward from cape Negrais is Thay-gin, or Pagoda point, ou the west side of the entrance to Bassein river. On this point there is a pagoda— hence its name. From this point red cliffts extend towards cape Negrais, and are fronted by a reef, which runs out If miles seaward. This reef terminates at the north end of the red cliffs near the cape, and should not be approached nearer than the depth of 10 fathoms in a large ship. Northward of the red cliffs the shore is more bold, there being from 11 to 12 fathoms soft ground within 2 or 3 miles of the cape ; but between Uie latter and the Brother hills, a distance of 6^ miles, straggling rocks or reefs project 1^ miles from the shore, and should not be approached nearer than a depth of 12 or 11 fathoms. L — ^This large river is 12 miles wide at its entrance. Pagoda and Porian points, its seaward boundaries, being that much distant from each other on a N.W. by W. and S.E. by E. direction ,- but it rapidly decreases to 2\ miles opposite the town of Dalhousie, only 9 miles from the sea. Hingie, an Digitized by tfOOQlC I IfCOPa^ 476 Algnada reef side, passing about half a mile from the north-eastern most visible rock, and not lessening the water under 11 fathoms,— -if at high water the breakers Digitized by L^OOQlC vh AW4UHA puiuiB, ibB BtfawMTu tjuuiiuaneis, ueiu^ umi luucu uisuuii, irom eecn jther on a N.W. by W. and S.E. by £• direction ; but it rapidly decreases to 2i miles opposite the town of Dalhousie, only 9 miles from the sea. Hingie, an Digitized by LjOOQIC NEGBAIS AND BASSEIN. 477 island of considerable size, just within tbe entranoe, diridee the stream into two navi- gable channels, of which that on its eastern side, being wider and deeper than that on its western, is generally used by sea-going vessels. Opposite the town the depth is 6 to 4 fathoms in the middle of the river. The edges of the shoals are buoyed^ notwithstanding which it will not be prudent to attempt to enter without a pilot. Outside the river are the following — Diamond island, PhsBton 'hfx*l, and Alguada reef; and at 36 miles from the latter, in a south-westerly diro'-bior Thalia reef, in Lat. 15° 16' N., Long. 9dP 48^' E. As these are met with in the approach from westward, we describe them before offering remarks upon the navigation of the river. Diamond XBland faces the entrance of Bassein river, and its position is Lat. IS"" 52' N., Long. 94"^ 18' 53'' E. It is about a mile in extent North and South, and half a mile broad, is low, and covered with trees, but of sufficient eleva- tion to be visible from a distance of 15 miles. A reef surrounds it, and extends from it in a southerly direction about a mile. Vessels occanionally anchor in 5 fathoms at about a mile eastward from it, and wait until they can conveniently enter the river ; they are then near the fairway buoy, and in the immediate vicinity of the principal channel into the river. Diamond island must be approached with great care, especially in a large ship. The west and east sides of the reef extending southward from it, do not appear to have been closely examined ; and Lisutsnant Wabd*8 chart shows a sounding of only 2 fathoms at half a mile westward from the island ; hence the necessity of extra caution when in its near neighbourhood. On the authority of Captain Fxll, of the Indian navy, the best leading mark for passing northward of the island between it and the flat extending from Porian island, is the bluff of Pagoda point a very little open with the extreme point of cape Negrais. Vtoaatoa SbMa. — In a S.S.W. i W. direction from Diamond island about 3 miles, is the north end of the PhsBton shoal, which thence extends in the same direction 3| miles. It is 1^ miles broad, has soundings upon it of 4 to 8 fathoms, but in its centre, for about IJ miles, a depth of only 12 to 16 feet ; this shoal part lies between the bearings of N. ^ £. and N.N.E. from Alguada lighthouse. The passage between Diamond island and Phieton shoal should never be at- tempted except in great necessity, there being no good mark as a guide, and the bottom being very irregular. The best mark is said to be the extreme point of cape Negraisy N. by W. f W. ; keep the lead going, and maintain a good look-out Hlgwartm me«r. — ^This very dangerous reef is situated 15 miles in a S.S.W. direotbn from the entrance to Bassein river. Its extent is li miles North and South, and many of the rocks ai'e only just above the water at low tide. Close to it all round are soundings of 3 to 8 fathoms, which rapidly deepen to the westward and southward ; there is also a patch of 3^ fsthoms at nearly a mile from its south end. It should not be approached nearer than a depth of 15 fathoms on its southern and eastern sides, and 20 fathoms on its western side, and the channel north of it (between it and Phsston shoal) should only be attempted in an emergency, there being no good leading marks to carry a vessel through; should, however, circumstances compel a vessel to go through this northern channel, it will be well to borrow on the Alguada reef side, passbg about half a mile from the north-eastern most visible rock, and not lessening the water under 11 fathoms,— -if at high water the breakers Digitized by LjOOQIC 478 BAY OP BENGAL; E. COAST. will show tike rocks. On the eastern side of the reef the high land of Hingie island well open eastward of Diamond island clears all danger. The tides, when uninfluenced by the wind, set across Algaada reef, and with con- siderable strength between the reef and Phseton shoal. It is chiefly for this reason that vessels are recommended not to approach its north-western side nearer than a depth of 20 fathoms; moreover, the soundings decrease suddenly on this side, especially towards the south-west part of the rocks. Idfflit. — ^A lighthouse, 160 feet high, has been erected on Alguada reef; it shows a light revolving every minute at 147 feet above high water level, visible 18 or 20 miles. Its position is Lat. 15^ 42' N., Long. 94^ 14" E., and from it cape Negnus beara N. i W. ; the pagoda on Pagoda point N. i E. ; extremity of Forian point N.E. f E. ; and the centre of Diamond island N. by E. i E. In Horsburgh's Directory, vol. i., is the following :'— " The bottom is chiefly uneven and rocky between Diamond island and Alguada reef, with a heavy turbulent swell, occasioned by the sea beating on the reefs, and the strong tides, about 2 knots per hour, which here set the flood to the E. by 6., and the ebb to the W. by N. The rise of tide is about 9 to 12 feet on the springs ; high water about 10^ hours on full and change of the moon, in the entrance of the river. From the heavy confused swell that generally prevails in this dangerous channel, even during calm weather, it is often called the Kaoe of Negrais, and cer- tainly should be avoided by ships ; for by rounding the south end of Alguada reef, they are but a few miles farther out in a safe and spacious channel, about 17 leagues wide, between it and Preparis island. " When the sea is smooth in the North-east Monsoon, the breakers on Alguada reef are not high ; but when the weather is dear, the approach to it may always be known by the bearing of the land; for when the west end of Diamond island is coming into contact with the east end of the hill on Hingie island, Alguada reef is then in the same direction, bearing K.N.E., and the western extreme of cape Negrais will bear nearly North. At 4 or 5 miles distance from Alguada reef, both eastward and westward, the depths are generally from 16 to 18 flithoms, blue mud, and southward from it at the same distance, 19 and 20 fathoms. It is prudent not to approach Alguada reef nearer than 2 leagues on the east side, nor under 3 leagues on the N.W. side, on account of the rock situated to the S.W. of Diamond island. Soundings extend from Alguada reef to Preparis island, and the depths increase to 40 and 50 fathoms in the track between them ; near to Preparis island they are irregular in some places, but on the east side of the island decrease to 8 fathoms within less than a mile of the shore." Captain N. Hbckfobd says :* " If, on approaching Alguada reef from the N.W. in thick weather, and without observations, you try for soundings and find 36 to 40 fathoms, mud, broken shells, and specks, steer to the southward until the nature of them are shells, stones, and rotten coral. You may then shape a course to the 8.E., provided your depth of water is above 25 fathoms, or you have no means of ascertaining the nature of your soundings, to know when you are in the fair track for passing the reef in thick weather. If in steering to the south-east you do not shoal, you may proceed with safety ; but if from 40 to 35 you decrease to 30 and 25 • ** SaiUng Direction, and Coasting Guide from the Sand Heads to Bangoon, JffawlMain and Akyab, and vice vend;" by 17. Ueckfobi). A work that shonld be in the hands of all ship- masters bound to the ports on the east coast of the Bay of Bengal. Digitized by LjOOQIC BASSEIN RIVER, Ac. 479 fathoms, haul to the southward until you deepen, then keep away to the south-east as requisite. '* The nature of the soundings west, south-west, and south of the Alguada reef, is so various that it is impossihle to particularise them with any degree of clearness ; they may he summed up in the fact, that with the reef bearing from E. to N.E., and N. by E., little or no mud will be found mixed with them. But it must be borne in mind that, with it bearing 8.E. by E. you have mud and mixed soundings, and these extend northward until you are clear to westward of cape Negrais ; moreover, you will not find two casts alike, although the lead be constantly hove. In mid-channel, or nearer the reef, they consist of stones, small broken shells, and sand, with black specks, in from 26 to 24 fathoms. The nearer the reef the coarser the bottom. When it bears due North in 22 fathoms, you will have coarse sand, stones, broken shells, and black and white specks ; and when it bears N. by W. in 23 fathoms, a slight mixture of green mud; and N.N.W. in 23 fathoms, you will have dark green mud mixed with black and white specks. From this position until off the south-west limit of Bragu sand in 16 fathoms they will be the same, excepting that the mud shades lighter as you proceed eastward from the reef; these remarks are applicable to north of Lat. 15^ 16' N. And it is deserving of particular notice, that there are no pure mud soundings in the direct track until you are eastward of Bragu sand." Thalia Meet, — ^This small coral patch is situated, as noticed (p. 477), in Lat 16^ 15' N., and Long. 93° 48J' E. Its extent is li miles N.N.W. and S.S.E., and close to its western side are soundings of 37 and 60 fathoms, and to its eastern aide 23 to 28 fathoms. The Riveb. — ^In the entrance to the river is Hingie, a triangular-shaped island, having its apex to the north-eastward ; it is about 3 miles in extent, and is easily i*eoognised from seaward by ahiU on its north-east end, the easternmost high land on the coast. A shallow flat of 6 to 18 and 21 feet, named Orestes shoal, extends out 4| miles in a south-westerly direction from this island, and leaves between it and the northern shore of the river a narrow channel of 3^ to 6 fathoms depth, or less; but which is considered unsafe for vessels drawing more than 14 feet. The navigable channel on the east side of Orestes shoal and Hingie island is 1^ miles wide, and 4i to 9 and 7 fathoms deep (reckoning from seaward), its eastern boundary being tlie extensive Porian shoal, a flat of 6 to 15 feet, which lines the eastern side of the entrance to the river; this eastern shore is low land, terminating in point Porian, a headland formed of white cliffs, sufficiently elevated to be visible from a distance of about 6 leagues. This eastern channel was buoyed in the following manner in 1859 : a red buoy on the extreme south end of the Orestes shoal, and another on its extreme eastern limit ; a black buoy on the extreme edge of the flat extending from the Porian shore; and a red buoy, marked "Fairway" in white letters, north-eastward from Diamond island. With the assistance of these buoys and Ltettt. Wabd*8 chart,* the river is not difficult to enter, still, strangers are recom- mended to obtain a pilot. When the buoys were moored at the entrance to the river in 1869, the following information was officially issued by Lieutenant T. W. Ailbsbubt, Master- Attendant : — " Vessels coming from the soutktoard should bring Diamond island to bearN.W., * Pnbllshed by the Hydrographic Office, Admiralty. No. 884. Digitized by VjOOQIC 480 BAY OF BENGAL; E. COAST. then tteer for it until the fairway buoy is visible* which is situated !( miles N.E. of the island. From this buoy steer N.N.E. until the hlaek buoy bears East* then N.E. by N. *' Vesieli entering fl-om the weitward, in latitude north of Diamond island, should bring it to bear S.E., and steer in fur it until the fairway ivcy is made, then proceed as above directed for vessels entering from the southwai^. This passage, however, should be attempted by sailing vessels only in the North-east Monsoon. " Vessels unable from stress of weather to dbtinguish the different marks, should anchor under Diamond island, where good anchorage and smooth water is to be found. " KlBcie Xaland to BaMein. — A vessel should proceed up the river about half a mile from the shore, until up to Teajoue Creek ; thence she should sheer over to the eastern bank, gradually, until the black buoy on the south end of the Bidge shoal is seen, which is to be passed, keeping it on the port hand about two cables' length, and keep the eastern bank until after passing the red and white buoys in the same manner as the black ; then stand up mid-channel, passing Sesostris rocks, which are marked by a red buoy. 7^e rocks lie inshore of the buoy. Keep on mid-channel uutil close up to Enterprise island, taking care to give the spit that extends a little way down from the south end of the island a good berth. There is a passage on each side of the island— one to the east and another to the west The passage to the left is preferable for a ship of light draught, as it is wide, and there ia more room to work.* " The passage to the eastward is taken by vessels of large draught Veeseb should keep close to the eastern shore, in order to avoid the Pariah rook. " In sailing up the passage to the left of Enterprise island, care must be taken not to approach too close to the spit that extends north of the island. Proceed up as far as the village of Tumam-Dewa, that lies in a creek on the port hand ; then steer across to the eastern bank between the red buoy and Elephant island, going nearer to the island than the huoy, until you get into 7 fathoms ; then steer up on the eastern shore, until abreast of the Pamawaddie river; from this steer over towards Ashby rocks buoy, giving the Cackatoo rocks u berth of at least two cablea' length. These rocks are seen above water, except at spring tides, when they are covered. There are three patches : two of them show above water half ebb to half flood ; one is sunken, and extends to 138 yards outside the others ; the least water on it at dead-low water spring tides is 16 feet. Keep the port shore until you reach the second creek, when tlie channel becomes much wider. " The 'junction' is so called from being at the top or north end of Napoota reach, where two branches of the river meet, the one from the east being the way to Bassein. "At Napoota reach you may steer up uutil approaching the 'junction,* where, on the eastern shore, a mud bank extends a quarter of a cable's length from the bushes ; there is also a bank extending from the port side. These can be avoided by keeping in nearly mid-channel. In the third reach there is a bank of mud, whidh will he kno»-n by a white board in the bashes. On the port hand this shoal extends nearly half way over, and the whole length of the reach in which it is, so that vessels must * It is possible that the buoys alladed to in this notice of the nsrigation above Dslhonsie may have been removed. Digitized by LjOOQIC COAST OF PEGU. 481 keep the starboard bank going up, and vice versA coming down. The remainder of the passage upwards is without danger, and easy of navigation. ** There is deep water close to the bank, and the gi-ound chiefly very soft mud. YesseU should have a small warp anchor in readiness to run out if required, and should use a light working anchor for dropping ; this will relievo the crew of much labour. " Vessels should show their numbers before arriving at the village of Takion, and Masters should report their arrival at the Master- Attendant's Office and Custom- house, as soon as possible." Caftaiit Hsckfobd says of Diilhousie : — "The port is not safe in bad weather, nor during the change of the Monsoons, as the fearful loss of shipping will fully testify. Commanders are cautioned not to remain at this anchorage longer than is actually necessary in an'iving at it from sea, and not to attempt to resort to it when bound out, without they are prepared to depart and the weather suited to this olrject." COAST OF PBav. — The coast of Pegu, from Bassein river to the Gulf of Martaban, is generally low and woody; it comprises, in fact, the delta of the great river Irawaddy. Fronting it to a considerable distance seaward are reefs and shallow flats ; hence it requires considerable care to approach, especially when the wind is from southward. The land is seldom visible from any distance, which renders pre- caution when approaching tlie more necessary. An examination of this sea-board was made in 1850 by Lieutenant Fell, of the Indian Navy, and the following is his description of the soundings off it : — '* From Porian point, which forms the south-east extreme of the eastern shore ot Bassein river, and which bears E. ^ S. from Diamond island, a bank extends off it to the distance of about 2^ miles, and continues in an E.S.E. direction, 62 or 63 miles, from whence it runs in an easterly direction, and gradually trends to E.N.E., then to N.E., on towards Rangoon. The southeni extreme of the Baragu flat is in Lat. 15° 29V N., Long. 95° 12' E., from whence the land is seldom visible, except in very clear weather. " A vessel passing north of Diamond island, and bound eastward with a fair wind, ought to keep the large pagoda ou with, or a very little open with, the north end of Diamond island, until she deepen to 10^ or 11 fathoms; she may then stand to the E.S.E., keeping in a line of 9^ or 10 fathoms, and altering her course so as to keep in this depth until abreast the south extreme of Baragu flat, when to keep in this water she will steer an east course, on which line she will (when eastward of Baragu point) deepen her water to 12, 15, and 16 fathoms. She may then, if bound to Rangoon, stand to the N.E., taking care not to come under 10 fathoms until northward of the Krishna shoal. If bound to Maulmain, she ought to steer E. by N. i N. or E.N.E. (altering her course according to the time of tide), when she will again shoal her water to 10 and 9 fathoms, which depth is the best line to keep in until sighting the eastern coast ; but during the South-west Monsoon it would be ad- visable to keep more to the southward, in 14 or 15 fathoms, making the land near to Kalegouk island, •* XriiOina SliMa extends fix>m Lat. 15° 36 N. in a N.E. direction to Lat. 15° 47' N., and is a bank of hard sand situated to the E.S.E. of Baragu point, distant from the nearest shore 10 miles. It is a narrow ridge about 1 mile ^iAc>J?f YJ^o 482 BAY OF BENGAL; EAST COAST. a channel between it and tbe shore, with 3^ and 3 fathoms in it, bottom of soil mud. When to the N.E, of Uic Krishna shoal, a vessel ought not to come under 4i fathoms until in Lat. 16° 13' N.j she will then be abreast of China Backeer.* " During the N.E. Monsoon, vessels from Bengal should make cape Negrais, and ought to endeavour to pass northward of Diamond island, by doing which they will save much time, as during the months of November, December, and Januarys there is little or no flood-tide south of Alguada reef, except during the springs. At other times there is a strong set to the W.N.W. '* The soundings westward of Alguada reef are generally even, with fine grey sand and mud, with 30 fathoms, 18 miles to the westward ; to the S. and S.S.W., when near to the reef, the bottom is very uneven, coarse sand and mud alternately, until 8 or 10 miles to the S.S. W., when the soundings become more regular, with coarse sand, shells, and rotten coral, which bottom continues the same nearly on to Preparis island. This bottom is a good guide for vessels during the S.W. Monsoon, when it is not advisable to approach the Alguada reef. To the E.S.E. about 12 miles the bottom is all mud, and continues on to the Tanaaserim coast. Vessels proceeding eastward with a working wind ought to be guided entirely by the lead, which should be kept going when approaching the Baragu flat, and ought not to stand under 7 fathoms, from which the soundings decrease quickly to 3 fathoms. ** The tides on the coast of Pegu are very irregular during the N.E. Monsoon, when there is scarcely any perceptible flood during the neaps off the Baragu flat, and during the springs not running more than three hours at the rate of 1 to 1^ miles per hour. When to the N.E. of Baragu point, the tides become stronger^^n the springs, running 3} and 4 knots, and during the neaps, 2 to 2^ knots. The rise and fall of tide at Alguada reef is about 12 feet. H. W. on the days of F. and C. at lOh. 45m. Off Baragu flat the rise is only 7 feet, high water at lib. A little northward of the Krishna shoal the rise is 12 feet, high water at lib. Eastward of Rangoon river the tides run very strong during the springs, greatest velocity being upwards of 7 knots, and the rise and fall from 25 to 27 feet. " Vessels from Amherst bound to Rangoon ought to endeavour to keep in a line of 54 to 6 fathoms low water, until they sight the land near China Buckeer, and then stand to the northward, as before directed." Captain N. Heckford says : — " When approaching Baragu sand from westward (the vicinity of which in fine weather is ascertained by the eddies that prevail in this particular part of the gulf only), the best depths to preserve are from 15 to 16 fathoms, not less, and you will cross over the tail oi' it in 10 and 11 fathoms ; the soundings will be of dark brown-coloured mud, mixed with very small entire shells, and this is the only spot throughout the track from outside the Alguada reef to the coast of Martaban, where this description of shell is to be found. In steering to the eastward, you will deepen again to 14 or 15 fathoms. Afler getting eastward of • Bangoon llirer is 18 mile* N.£.-ward from China Bnokeer Birer. In HofiSBUBGR*s Directory, China Backeer is mentioned as appearing like a low island when viewed ttom sound- ings of not more than 6 fathoms. Captain Heckfohd says : " China liuckcer appears like a low detached island \ being covered with dense Jungle, makes it very conspicuous, and there is no land like it on this part of the coast ; an opening between it and the main appears at Its north- east end when Just visible flrom the southward above the horizon. Tliis is the only dif Ungfuishlng mark south-westward of Elephant ptAnV* Digitized by LjOOQIC Digitized by Google .h j^ ill .t;l III M Iff ^ all a .of',of:,9e-^°i Digitized by Google RANGOON RIVER. 483 Baraga sand, which will he easily known hy the nature of the soandings ; if they be pure mud, of a light brown colour, you can steer to the N.E. and N.E. by N. " If bound to Maulmain, after passing Baragu sand, and when about half way be- tween the tail of that sand and the north end of Kalegouk island, you will have much deeper water. But the IO5 fathoms soundings extend across the gulf to Double island, and from the north end of Kalegouk the 12^ fathoms extend about 40 miles U} the westward. These soundings, after getting well to the north-eastward of Bai-agu sand in 7 or 8 fathoms, consist of soil oaze; with the Rangoon river N.W., 8tiil* mud ; eastward of this, and towards the Martaban coast, they are of dark olive- coloured mud. " I have never found any mixed soundings or sand eastward of Baragu sand in the Gulf of Martaban— clear of danger. And safety requires that you should find your mud soundings mixed ; at the same time convinced that you are eastward of Baraga sand (with a flood tide), anchor without loss of time, as you are not far from danger. And, as all dangers must be N. or N.W. of you, a S. or S.E. course will enable you to get clear of them, should you be in their vicinity; except you are in the mouth of the Sittang river, which is ascertained by the overfalls, set and strength of the tide, and the high land to the X.E.-ward. Should you, through some extraordinary cir- cumstance, get in the mouth of this river, and can ride oub one flood-tide (althoogh I have never heard of but two vessels escaping from it), weigh at high water, and work to the S.S.W., keeping the lead constantly going, as the channels between the sands are deep, though narrow, and anchor when the flood is in." -This river is about 2 miles wide at the entrance, whenoei to the town of Rangoon, a distance of 20 miles in a N.W. by N. direction, it gra- dutdly decreases in width, till opposite the town it is only one-third of a mile across. The shore on each side of the entrance is low, and can be seen oidy from a moderate distance ; but a beacon, coloured black and white, has been erected on the eastern or Grove point, and another, red and white, on the western or Elephant point, as marks to show the position of the river from seaward. Shallow flats extend out a consider- able distance from the shore on each side of the river, and the edges of these, in the immediate vicinity of the entrance, are marked by buoys, to indicate the channel-way in. The soundings in the entrance are«5 to 7 fathoms ; thence up the river is a general depth of 5 fathoms, excepting at about 2 miles eastward of the town, where is a bar of 6 to 10 feet. Spring tides rise 21 feet, and neaps 14 feet. lAght, — The entrance to the river is now (1859) indicated by a light-vessel, the posi- tion of which is Lat. 16° 19' N., Long. 96° 20^ 30" E.; it is moored in 3J fathoms, Koft mud, at low water spring-tides, and shows a fixed light, visible from a distance of 8 miles. A blue light is burnt every hour from 7h. p.m. to 4h. A.M.* In 1859, the following instructions for entering the river were issued by Mb. H. Lewis, the Master- Attendant of the port : — " Commanders of vessels bound to the port of Rangoon should endeavoor to make the coast well to the southward about the China Buckeer river, as many ships have been lost in consequence of having been swept by the strong flood-tide on to the The oonstrootUm of a Ughthoiue on Elephant point, the west point of the river, if in I I 8 contemplation. ^.^.^.^^^ ^^ L^OOg IC 484 BAY OP BENGAL ; EAST COAST. cxtensiire sandfi to the northward and eaatward, and into [the Sittang river, in which direction the spring flood sets with dangerous velocity. Pilots are usually cruising well to the southward of the light-vessel stationed at the entrance to the river. " With the beacons on Elephant and Grove points bearing to the northward, steer fvr the light-vessel. Flood sets N.E. by N. ; ebb S.W. by S. 3i to 4 knots. From the light-vessel, with a fair wind, steer N. by E. J E., about 5 miles for the outer black buoy, passing it to the westward a good cable's length ; thence steer North fi)r the upper black buoy till the upper red buoy is in sight, bearing N.N.W., p:i*4s to the eastward of this, with the western beacon bearing N.W., and steer in for Elephant point, which bearing from W.S.W. to S.S.W., distant half a mile, will give good anchorage. Care must be taken not to bring tlie black buoy to the westward of N. J E., nor the red buoy to the eastward of North. " From Elephant point to Rangoon steer along the right bank of the river, about a cable's length from shore, until close to Bassein creek, then cross over to the left bank, along which steer at a distance of 1^ cable's length from the shore, until Dagon pagoda bears about N.W., then steer in mid-channel, between the red and black buoys on the Hastings shoal, for the flagstaff in the town, and anchor opposite the dockyard." SXTTAiro SIVBX. — ^Tho coast eastward of Grove point is low, and fronted for a considerable distance seaward by a shallow flat, hence it cannot be approached in a large ship. Sittang river is 25 or 40 miles from Rangoon river : it is shallow at its entrance, but a survey of it might possibly discover some channels among its banks sufficiently deep for a ship of ordinary size. The river is quite unknown, as foreign vessels never enter it. On its eastern shore the country rises into hills, named the Zingaat or Martaban hills. Tides. — The tides on the coast of Pegu generally run very strong ; the flood sets East and E. by N., and the ebb in the contrary direction to the westward of Baragu point ; but from that point to Rangoon bar the flood sets N.E. and N.E. by N., and the ebb to the S.W. Farther cast, between Rangoon river and the coast of Martaban, the flood runs strongly N.N.E. and N. by E. into the bottom of the gulf, and the ebb with equal strength out of it, in the opposite direction. When the rivers are swollen, and the low country inundated by the ndns at the end of the South-west Monsoon, the ebb tides run much stronger and run longer than the flood tides, occa- sioned by freshes from the rivera j the water then is very thick and muddy at a considerable distance from the land, which is more or less the case on this coast at all times, opposite to the numerous rivers that disembogue into the sea. Abreast of Baragu point, and farther westward, the velocity of the tides is not nearly so great as off Rangoon river and in the bottom of the gulf; for here it is frequently in the springs 4 and 5 miles an hour, and sometimes more, near the edges of the shoal-banks. Af^er the rains, the tides off Rangoon river are subject to a circular motion ; the first of the flood sets East, changing gradually to N.E. about i flood, and to North in the latter part. The ebb sets just the reverse, begin- ning to run West; it changes gradually to S.W. and South, ending atS.E.,but there is no slack water at these times, the tides continuing to run 1^ or 2 knots when changing from the flood to the ebb, and the same at the opposite change. On the west part of the coast, off Porian point, the perpendicular rise and fall of the tide is only 9 or 10 feet on the springs, but off Rangoon bar it is frequently 20 of 21 feet, and from 21 to 24 feet farther to the eastward in the bottom^! ilie gulf igi ize y g 485 f. * .' ' . ,, ' ' areful in \** '^ • - ^. ' 'i tides, in \Ij * . t- *♦ where a i t, f^ -T ■ :T ' .we reach :♦;;-<-- ;i[ - ^ ^ ted from '. ' •' 1^ ' *, ' ■ 17 miles ' • • . .» ' ^ IS rather [ ■" f-.-^ ' .. ^, ^nds are ' »-. .; L ' '- ■■ ,• ♦ i '-'« V . ''^ V I eastern *• - « '— ^ ' ' -' }_•.. -. -i "" ' ^ c ■'•lie trees '.. . -■>■: ' ■ . .- ■■■ „n 12 or r ' i'"*' A ^ ^ " - iiorthern ^ '. ' '. ' jrn bank here the ' • ' ' ^ .. ill in the .. tides is r- ^ ' I I ".y- .. dto the * . . - •* ^ ^ "Occupied -- n island, *< • iT > ' ie»cc the ; ' • ' '.%/ " ./ ' '• * 12 feet, i . * ' ^ ^^ / , > ' " • These I c. *''".. ;, '^^'^ <^^'*" I ,. \ ' ■ '.''{,'■ , ilots are •'■?■■.■ I - ' . ^ : miles an i • " ♦: . ,. •". " feet can I ^ ' 'tug, the (c \ ■ ' , t cannot c- ^' ain, wrote ■* . • ■ < ' ■ ' ■ ' ' . ' ' ' .. •■ Hioves the ^ t ■' ' similar to - ' ' . , >f the tide to Maul- tents have espectable sea with- i mast be D sea, was ;hward of .Is passing ufficiently I cable, or d beacons ninds, for, ) beacons. ) Deacons, DigitizecjbyLjOOgle 484 cxtensiv diiectioi well to 1 "WH for the the ligh black bi ' lor the to the Elephar . give go westwai " Pro cable's bank, a- Dagon ] black bi the doci sxn ' considei large sb cntranci sufficien vessels : Ztngaat Tide East ai Baragu N., and Martabi and the^ ave swo MonsoG sioned . oonsidei all timc.> Abrei- nearly ^ frequen edges t to a cii /'' about i ning to is no sU - changir Ontl the tide Of 21 f « i ?2t X; • i i ft I 1 « H ; ■ III Diatized by VjOO vie — .^ i MAULMAIN. 486 near the banks at the entrance of Sittang river ; it is therefore proper to be careful in making free with this part of the coast, and to acquire a knowledge of the tidcB, in order to prevent any mistake, by anchoring near high water in a situation where a ship would be aground at low water. MAUlillfAny, — Following the coast southward from the Sittang river, we reach in Lat. 16° 3(y the northern entrance of the river Salween, which is separated from the southern entrance by a large island, named Pelew Gewen. This island is 17 miles long from north to south, and 8 miles broad : it is moderately high, and is rather more elevated at its north and south ends than in the middle ; at these ends are thick clusters of trees. A white pagoda stands on its south end upon the eastern part of the highest land, and appears just above the trees. The tops of the trees on the west side of the island are not visible at a greater distance than 12 or 15 miles ; this coast is faced by a shoal which extends out 1 or 2 miles. The northern channel of the river is not navigable. The town of Maulmain is on the eastern bank of the river in Lat. 16° ZOf, its situation being at the fork of the stream, where the north and south channels divide. According to the survey of 1842, the depth in the shallowest part of the river at low tide is 7 to 8 feet. The lisc of spring tides is 22 feet ; neaps range 12 feet. The southern channel of the river Salween is that used by vessels bound to the poi*t of Maulmain. It is 9 miles wide, but the greater part of this space is occupied by the Goodwin Sands, shallow flats extending southward from Pelew Gewen island, and by reefs jutting out from Amherst point, the south shore of the river ; hence the navigable channel is less than a mile wide. The depth at low tide U 18 to 12 feet, and buoys, which are moved as occasion requires, mark the principal dangers. These sands are subject to frequent change ; instructions for entering the river are con- sequently useless, and render the emploj'ment of pilots a necessity. Pilots are obtained from Amhei*st.* The tides in the river Salween Jire strong, their velocity being about 5 miles an hour during springs, and 3 miles at neaps. Vessels drawing about 22 feet can ascend the river to Maulmain. We believe it is usual to employ a steam-tug, the channels between the sands being very narrow and tortuous. Amberst Point (Cape Xyal-lcainl, or Quekmi), is low, so low that it cannot * Mr. Neat Majob, agent for the Liverpool Underwritera* Association at Maulmain, wrote thus in 1868:— *• Tlie entrance to this river is becoming eo narrow and intricate, that it urgently behoves the Government to take some measures for the prevention of ships getting into difficaltles similar to those of the ships Laurel and Clara L. Preble, which ships were both swept by the force of the tide on to Amherst reef, and, having received considerable injury, were compelled to return to Maul- main, discharge their cargoes, and bedecked for Airther survey. These serious accidents have occurred within the present month, and I am credibly informed by some of the most respectable pilots that it is very dangerous to move a heavy ship out of Amherst road to proceed to sea with- out the assisttmoe of steam power, or a strong commanding breeze, and even then it must be nearly high water. ** I am under the impression that if the lower part of the river, from Fishing village to sea, was carefhlly resurveyed by competent surveyors, a new channel would be found to the northward of the present one ; and if so, and properly buoyed, would t>e a great desideratum for vessels passing in and out of this river. There are two narrow passages or gaps in the Amherst reef sufficiently wide for any ships to pass through with safety in cases of emergency — such as parting a cable, or drifting, &c. These passages are well known to the pilots, and only require substantial beacons erected to mark their positions ; this would be the means of relieving many anxious minds, for, take an instance of a ship parting her cable, her commander or pilot, guided by these beacons, oould steer boldly through the passage, and prooeed to sea with confldenoe.* '^g-itizedbyL:.OOgle 486 BAY OF BENGAL; EAST COAST. be seen from a greater distance than 7 to 10 miles ;* the lands in its yicinity are high and peaked, and visible in clear weather from a distance of 9 leagues. On the point is a white pagoda, called the upper Qaekmi pagoda ; another pagoda (the lower one), also white, stands on the rocks off the point. There are also several pagodas along the coast. At a mile S.S.W. from the point is a little island named Green, situated half a mile from the shore; and 12 miles southward from it, in Lat. 15° 53' N., is Double island, so named because a chasm in the trees upon it causes it to appear as two islands when viewed on any bearing between N.E. by E. and S.E. This island is about 100 feet high, as many long, sufEciently bold to be approached within a mile, and so thickly wooded that it resembles an immense bush —it is very inconsiderable as compared with the high lands behind it, and is not easily distingaished until well in with the shore. In a south-easterly direction from Amherst point are some remarkable hills, the Table land and peak, which are suffi- ciently lofty to be visible from a distance of 30 to 45 miles : these, with the high land of Martaban to the N.E., which comes into view when you are in about the depth of 15 fathoms, are excellent guides for the port. Mb. Davy, B.N., says, 1836 : " In the North-east Monsoon a ship leaving the Sand Heads should steer about S.E. ; or if the current to the southward be found stronger than usual, steer more easterly, passing in mid-channel between cape Negrais and Preparis island ; or if bordering on the weather shore, round Alguada reef in not less than 20 fathoms ; the depth in this channel will be found deepest towards Preparis island. From this the soundings become regular, with mostly mud bottom, decreasing as you advance eastward. On no account make the low land, or steer higher than E.S.E., until the meridian of Baragu point is passed. After passing that meridian, stand on and make the land about Double island. The parallel of 16° N. should not be crossed until within five miles of the coast, as the tides there are at the strongest ; and the shoals of Pelew Gewen island, also the flats at the mouths of the rivera, are very dangerous. " In the South-west Monsoon shipmasters should endeavour to make the laud a little southward of Kalegouk island; and in the event of bad weather, or if the weather has a threatening appearance — more particularly if it be at or near the springs — should not think of anchoring at Amherst, but should run inside Kalegouk, and anchor in 6 to 9 fathoms. Double island and the north end of Ealegonk bear from each other S. by E. i E., and N. by W. J W. 17 miles ; when standing inshore, do not pass eastward of that line of bearing, — to a stranger, this will be the best possible guide. No part of the coast should be approached nearer than two miles, on account of the strong tides and the rocks and breakers extending out from the shore. When steering for Amherst great attention must be paid to the tides, and large vessels may anchor in 10 fathoms with the Reef buoy bearing N. by E., and the upper pagoda N.E. to E.N.E. " It is high water on the days of full and change of the moon at Amherst point at 2h., and at the Beef buoy at 2h. 20m. ; the greatest rise and fall of the tide is during the S.W. Monsoon, when it is often 26 and 28 feet, and the velocity 6 to 7 knots. Hence, during strong South-westerly winds, with a sea and so rapid a tide, the anchorage is imsafe. It is at this time that the value of the harbour within Kalegouk island can be properly appreciated* In the North-east Monsoon the rise and fall » A small fixed Ugbt, vUlble 6 miles, is said to bave been established on the poiBt. Digitized by VjOOQLC MAULMAIN. 487 is 18 to 20 feet, and the rate of tide 3 to 4 knots per hour. The ohange of the tides is effected almost instantaneoasi j ; indeed, it may be said there is no slack water. The ebb-tide ooming out of the river may be seen at some distance ; it brings a vast accumulation of dark-coloured matter, which contrasts strongly with the sea, — it comes down with great force, and when it strikes the ship, maken it, as sailors say, " all grin again." The strongest tides are found on the parallel of the river, and are not felt at the distance of 60 miles from the land ; their strength also decreases as you steer to the southward. A 6-knot tide at Amherst will be found to have lost half its rate at Ealegouk, and at 10 miles farther south it will have still further decreased."* Cjlptaix D. Ross, of the Indian Navy, the Marine Surveyor, gives the following instructions for making Amherst : " It is proper to make the land between Double island in Lat. 15^ 63' N., and the small islet in Lat. 16^ 8' N., which is about 1} miles southward of the Pagoda, as, without this precaution, the strong tides may sweep a ship past the buoy that is placed at the point of the reef, and carry her on the Goodwin Sand. When 1^ or 2 miles westward of this small islet, and if then the Beef buoy is seen bearing about N.N.E., endeavour to approach it on the bearing of about N.E., and anchor at about a cable's length north-westward of it, in 4^ or 5 fathoms at low water. The depths outside will vary from to 13 fathoms, and when about three-quarters of a mile S.W. of the buoy, there are overfalls from to 14 fathoms, quickly shoaling to 7 fathoms at the entrance between the Reef buoy and the Goodwin sand. It is almost indispensable to anchor in the situation men- tioned abo^re, to wait for a row-boat and pilot, as the channel is narrow, the bottom very uneven, and the soundings no guide. If the wind be from the southward or westward, high water is the time to weigh, or just at the commencement of the ebb ; but if it be from northward or north-eastward, the last quarter of the flood is the proper time to weigh, in order to have a weak tide under lee, and be enabled to keep the row-boat on the port bow, while she proceeds along the sand and showing the depth of water by a flag. The extremity of the reef being very near the buoy, no ship must pass eastward of the latter. The anchorage at Amherst will admit several ships, but must be avoided by large vessels in the S.W. Monsoon (being open to all winds from S.S.W. by W. to N.W.), when a considerable swell sets in through the gaps of the reef." Captain Maitland, B.N., says that a vessel should anchor at 1^ miles from Green island, with the pagoda on Amherst point, showing clear of it to the north- ward ; thereby enabling pilots to come off during a flood-tide, by pulling along shore to the southward, and also giving plenty of room to weigh— a matter of some diffi- culty and danger in the strong tides off the Reef buoy close to the rocks and shoab. He also states that a pilot station is on the island. As a summary of the foregoing it may be remarked, that it is advisable, generally. • Mr. Davt Mys : — ** It may be uieftil to mention the extraordintry ripples so frequently to be met with in the upper parts of the Bay of Bengal, and near the entrance to the Strait of Malacca. These ripples resemble an impetaous tide bubbling and breaking in fh>nt of an obstrac- tion, and yet, from the obserrations that have been made upon them, thej appear not to hare the effect of current, nor in any way to throw a ship oat of her reokoning. They are most frequently met with in calm weather or in light winds ; often they have the appearance of a dangerous shoal, rippling and surging with much fbrce, and adyandng towards the ship against a single- reef-topsail breeze at the rate of 2 or 8 knots an hour. In striking against the ship, the water often surges OTcr the hammocks of small vessels, and fills the decks with water ; In pattiiig to windward, they may be traced to a ccmtiderable diiUi^g^ ^ L^OOQ IC 488 BAY OF BENGAL ; EAST COAST. to approach Amherst on the pai*allel of 16° N.; when on this parallel, in Long. 96^ 30', the Zingaat mountains will be seen in clear weather. If soundings of 10 or 11 fathoms are obtained, a vessel will bo on the Martaban coast; but if they de- crease to 6 or 7 fathoms, she will be on the edge of the Uinks fronting the Rangoon river or the adjacent coast. If the coast about Amherst be made during the South- west Monsoon, which is the stormy season, commencing in May and terminating in October (the rest of the year beinjj made up by N.E. winds, calms, and clear settled weather), there is good anchorage off the shore at from 5 to 10 miles distance, which continues for about 100 miles southward of the port. A ship sailing from Amherst in the S.W, Monsoon, before obtaining an offing, may probably be obliged to anchor two or three times dming the flood -tide, with the risk of riding very hard, or parting her cable by the heavy sea. K — From Cape Kyai-kami (Amherst point) to the north end of Kalegouk island the distance is 30 miles. Double island has already been noticed ; the shore behind it is low and fronted by a shallow flat, for which reason vessels should always keep westward of the island. At about 6 miles from Double island, in a south-easterly direction, are two patches of rocks above water at about 3 miles from shore; in the channel between these and the land are soundings of about 5 fathoms, but as the projecting point of the coast has a reef extending from it some distance, it will be prudent to keep outside them ; the depth at a very little west- ward of these rocks is 8 and 9 fathoms. The current hereabout, at 7 miles from the land, was observed by Captain Ross, of the Indian Navy (1828), to flow north- ward at the rate of 4 knots an hour, and to increase in strength as he approached Amherst. Kalegouk island is an island 5 J miles long, in a N. by W. and S. by E. direction, and not more than a mile wide in its broadest part, its north end, whence it tiinrs to a }X)int at its south end. Steep point, in the centre of the island, on its east side, is in Lat. 16° 33' N. On Woodstock hill, 200 feet high, and li miles from its north- ern end, were some remarkable trees in 1862. Dr. Macpheeson say^s — "The ishmd is composed of primary rock, the superstratum being a rich mixture of open porous soil, composed of sand and vegetable mould. Its Ibrniation is very peculiar, the northern and southern portions diff*ering considerably. The northern half on the western side is composed of a long granite ridge, with an average perpendicular drop to the sea. The eastern side descends to the shore in gentle or abrupt slopes, while the western is broken into isolated hills, with level, well-raised intervening spaces, forming three ba3's. Quarry bay, where the stones were prepared for Al,!^uada lighthouse, is the deepest ; the beach is sandy, but at ebb tide an extensive mud flat, covered in places with mangroves, is exposed, the somewhat narrowness of the channel between the island and the mainland tending to the accumulation of mud. Roth sides of the island arc broken into bays. To the west. Retreat, Rocky, Sea, and Pish bays, have beautiful hard, sandy beaches, well protected b}' high land on each side, and open to the ocean in front, with a fine rolling surf on the boach, and only divided from one another by projecting rocky points, and from the cor- responding bays on the eastern side by well-raised necks of land, sloping east and west, free from all swampy ground, and ascending north and south to the hills whicli divide the bays. The eastern ba3's look on the distant mainland, rising in lK>ld outline on the horizon. These very much resemble the western bays; in fact, differ Digitized by LjOOQIC I- u / .. » t»^A V • V i. ^'. v» I; ^<^ V r A J ,..• ^ A J ^ Digitized by^ KALEGOUK ISLAND; PENANG. 489 only by the mud uncorei'ing at half-tidea, the rise and fall at spring-tides being 22 feet. All the bays on the eastern side are perfeotly protected from the south- west Monsoon, as are the bays on the western side during the north-east Monsoon ; the entire island is clothed with fine primeval forest, with trees of immense dimen- sions and height. Water of an excellent quality is procurable at a depth of 15 feet ; and a perennial spring of sweet water flows through the centre of the island." At the south end of Kalegouk island is an islet, one-third of a mile long, named Cavendish, surrounded by a reef which projects from its south-west side about a quarter of a mile. In the narrow channel between these islands the depth is 8 and 7 fathoms. The west shore of Ealegouk has not been surveyed ; it is believed to be lined by a reef, and should not therefore be approached nearer than the depth of II or 10 fathoms. The east shore has shoal water from it to a moderate distance, beyond which are soundings of 5 and 6 fathoms. At the north end of Kalegouk, and separated from it by a very narrow channel of 5 to 8 fathoms, through which the tide flows to the north-west at the rate of 5 knots an hour, causing a heavy race, commences the Galloper sand, a shoal extending thence 6 miles to the N. by E. in the direction of Pulo Cropic, a small islet situated about a mile from the mainland. This sand is dry at low tide over a considerable portion of its surface, other parts having a depth of not more than 6 to 12 feet, and its edges are moderately steep ; consequently it should be very cautiously approached. The channel between its north end and Pulo Cropic is rather more than a mile wide, and has soundings in it of 6 to 10 fathoms ; it is called North channel, the South channel being round Cavendish island, at the south end of Ealegouk. The channel between Kalegouk and the shore is 4 to 5 miles wide, and the sound- ings midway are about 8 fathoms. Here vessels may anchor and find good shelter from all but southerly winds ; the best place is said to be off the highest part of the island in 6 or 7 fathoms. Ingress and egress are easy. The North channel is very rarely used, being narrow. When running for Kalegouk anchorage, give Cavendish island a berth of about a mile, and when it bcara W.N.W., haul to the northward and pass up to the an- chorage. The shore of Kalegouk island should have a moderate berth given to it. According to Mb. N. Icelt, B.N., who surveyed this anchorage in 1830, vessels drawing 10 feet may be laid on shore for repair at North creek, on the east side of the island, at about a mile from its north point. Wood and some fruit may be procured, and three or four tons of water per day in the dry season at Mahomed's well in Freshwater bay. Buffaloes and rice can be obtained from Dermonjai creek, on the mainland opposite the middle of the island. COAST or TAHrASSBRHVC, 4tc.— From Kalegouk island southward to Lat. 6^ N., including the Mergui Archipelago, there are no ports frequented by foreign vessels, and as this coast is but very little known, no thorough survey* of it (except one of the Mergui islands by Coif. Llotd, 1828) having yet Ixjen made, it seems superfluous to attempt a description of it, Cj^pecially as the harbours are all of such a character that they cannot be entered without a pilot. We therefore conclude our description of the east coast of the Bay of Bengal with some remarks upon Penang. PEH Airo. — Peuang is an island having the form of a parallelogram, situated 490 BAY OF BENGAL; EAST COAST. between Latitades &"> 16' and S"" 28' N. and Longitttdes 100° lO' and 100° 20^ E. It 18 very lofby. West hill, in the northern part of the ialand, its moat elevated part, being 2713 feet abovo the sea. On the east side of the island is Georgetown, where a oonaiderable trade is oarried on with Singapore, and varions porta of Eastern India. Fort GomwaUis is in Lat. 5° 24/ dO'' N. and Long. lOO'' 20" 10^ E • The channel between Fenang island and the shore is from 6 to 2 miles wide, the latter being the width of the channel opposite the town. The greater part of this space is occupied by the Great £ra Flat, an extensive shoal of 3 to 9 feet, which runs off from the main land in the direction of the island : this bank appears to be of a changeable character, as the South channel, the channel between it and the island, was found in 1868 to be abont 10 feet leas in depth than when it was sur- veyed by LiXTTT. WooBi, B.N., in 1832— henoa it will not be prudent to attempt to enter Fenang harbour by this channel without a pilot. We believe that the edges of the sands are marked by fishing stakes and beacons. The anchorage at Fenang is off the town in 9 to 12 fathoms, and there is protec- tion from all winds except those from north-westward. The best berth for large vessels is said to be at about a quarter of a mila south-eastward from the fort in about 10 fathoms ; small vessels anchor nearer the town in 3 to 4 fathoms. The harbour has an extent of 1^ to 2 miles ; the fort point is nearly steep, having 5 to 9 fathoms immediately off it, in the middle are 12 to 14 fathoms, and the soundings pff the main decrease from 7 to 1^ fathoms. Ships of war anchor in 7 to 10 fathoms half a mile northward of the fort. The best route to Fenang anchorage is from the north-westward. The north shora of the island is high and bold, and has a shoal extending out from it 1 to 2 miles, on the edge of which are soundings of 3 to 4 fathoms ; hence it should not be closely approached, nor should a large ship get nearer the coast of the main land than 2 miles, on account of the shallow flat extending from it. The soundings throughout this, the North channel, are 4^ and 6 fathoms, deepening to 9 and 10 fathoms in the vicinity of Georgetown. The South channel in 1832 was safe for vessels drawing under 17 feet; the depth, as already observed, is said to have become considerably reduced. * This U considered to be a well-delennined position, and bss been taken aa a seoonduy meridian in determining the position of yarioos places in the Baj of Bengal and Strait of Malacca. A shipmaster bound to Penan^ should have the Admiralty chart (No. 13G6) at band for reference. Digitized by Google Digitized by Google [ INDIAN ocean] PRINCE EDWARD IV KaufcLelfiLu FRUfCS mvwARiy ISLASTD SHIP BAT [possession l.XROZETij] Sounding ■» ^a£kom^ io.JDoK, J ^TTiP.s Imray It Sod. PAET III. SAILING DIRECTIONS FOB TBS ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. PEINCE EDWAED ISLANDS/ ThbIwo lofty islands known as the nuorcB BB'VABB, are situated abont 1000 miles from the continent of Africa, in a south-east direction from Algoa bay, in about Lat. 46^ SO' 8., and Long. 37° 86' E. They lie in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction, and are distant from each* other 12 to 13 miles, the channel between being apparently clear of danger, excepting such rocks as may be off the shores on either side. The sonthowestem and larger island is named Marion, from the Frenchman, Mabiok Dcr Fbbbkb, who discovered it in 1772 ; the more northerly island bears the name of Pbincb EDWABD.f Captain Cook considered the larger island to be about 45 miles in circuit, and its centre to be in Lat. 46° 53' S., Long. 37° 46' E. ;{ the smaller island in Lat 46° 40' S., Long. 38° 8' E., and about 27 miles in circuit. They have not been surveyed, so it is not known if a bank of soundings surrounds them to any distance ; and they are believed to contiun no place of safe anohoi*age. Captain Cook's report of these islands is as follows: — "We passed midway throogh the channel between the islands, and could not discover, with the assistance of our best glasses, tree or shrub on either of them. They seemed to have a rocky and bold shore; and, excepting the south-east parts, where the land is rather low and flat, a surface composed of barren mountains, which rise to a considerable height, and whose summits and sides were covered with snow, which in many places * So named by Captain Cook, in honour of the Dnke of Kent, the flither of Her Majesty, t See Chart of Frinee Edward Islands. t Cook fonnd the longitude of Cape Town to be 18° 82' 10" E., which is 6' 10" too much to the east, aoooidingto the most recent observations; hence rectifying the positions of Prince Edward islands as' given hj Cook, we find the centre of the western (Harion) island to be 87° 89' 50" E., and of the eastern (Prince Edward) island to bo 88° 1' £0" £. K. Cbcoll made the Prince rook in Lat. 46° 46' S., Long. 87° 86' 4" £. (see '* Extrait dn Bapport,*' &0. &c, par If. Czcille, Capitaine dn Vaisseao, Envoyee dans lli^misph^ Austral k la protection de la ptohe de la baleine, 1837-1889), in which position it is placed in the French ofaart No. 9£5. GBcniU*8 liongitade appears to b« a mean between that of Cook and Boss and is protmbly correct 492 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. Beemed to be of a oonsiderablo depth. The south-east parts had a much greater quantity on them than the re^t; owing, probably, to the sun acting for a less space of time on these than on tlie north and north-west parts. The ground, where it was not hid by the snow, from the various shades it exhibited, may be supposed to bo covered with moss, or perhaps such a coarse grass as is found in some parts of the Falkland islands. On the north side of each of the islands is a detached rock ; that near the south island is shaped like a tower, and appeared to be at some distance from the shore. As we passed along, a quantity of sea- weed was seen, and the colour of the wator indicated soundings. There was no appearance of an inlet, unless near the rock just mentioned ; and that, from its smallness, did not promise a good anchoring-plaoe."* Prince Edward islands have since been visited by various navigators ; among others by M. Cbcillb, of the French ship Heroine, in 1838 ; and subsequently by Caf< TAIN J. C. Ross, R.N., with i\iQ Erebus and Terror^ in 1840, when on his Antarctic voyage.t M. Cbcillb says, that " at 2 miles E.S.E. fi-om the north cape of the larger or western island, there is a very high and remarkable rock, which I have named the ' Prince :' it is much darker than the rock on the coast off which it stands, and is visible at a great distance. From the northward its summit appears larger than its base ; from the north-east it appears like a toweri-as it does from the eastward also, but in the lattor view with the summit cut off in an inclined line : it is at a short distance from the coast, which appeared hereabouts fit for landing. In order to examine the western shore of the island, we sailed along at a distance of 1 or 2 miles, from the north to the south cape. At 7 miles £. 27° S. from the ' Prince,* we found before us a bank of kelp, extending at right angles with the shore about 3 miles. Tiie Heroine was put about, and afler working round the bank, we approached the coast again to resume our operations. In all probability there is sufficient water under the kelp, at least I think so, for it appears to be of the same nature as that which surrounds Tristan da Cunha and the Falkland islands — some pieces of which are 40 fathoms in length. It is not rare to find kelp at the depth of 25 to 30 fathoms ; but it is also found on rocks at less depth, and I therefore did not think fit to cross this marine forest, and time would not permit of our sending a boat to sound. We met with another bank of the same kind extending a mile to seaward from the eastern point. The coast which from the north cape to this point trends in a direct line E. 4ff S. and W. 40° N. now suddenly bends to the S.S.W. We found a considerable waterfall at about 2 miles in this direction, tumbling from the heighU to the flat shore beneath. We kept continually sounding with 12 to 15 fathoms along our track without finding any bottom. The coast we passed rises abruptly towards the mountains, presenting no sandy beach, bay, landing-place, nor anchorage whatever ; neither could we form any correct opinion of the height of this mountainous island, the summit of which was concealed by clouds. The heighte were capped with snow, and we observed much more on the southern than on the northern part of the island, in consequence of its being less exposed to the sun. Not a tree or bush of any kind was seen; and the soil seemed dry and arid, but there * ** A Voyage to the Faolflc Ocean, for making DiaooTeriea in the Southern Hemlsphen*, under the Direction of Caftaiiis Cook, Cle£ke, and Gore, in H.M. ships ResoUOUni end DUoocery, in ttie years 1776-1780." Vol. I^ p. 53, second edition, 1785. t "Voyage of Discovery in the Soathem and Antarctic B^ons, years 1886-18 18, hy Caftain fin J. C. Boas, B.N. PBINCE EDWARD ISLANDS. 493 appeared a green and red moss, resembling that on the Crozet islands, covering the pyramidal-shaped rocks — which at a dii«tance had the appeai'ance of trees. " The eastern island is much smaller than that just mentioned, and has a very remarkable rock at its northern extremity. The entire length of the island did not appear to extend more than 5 miles from north to sonth, althongh longer from north- west to soath-east ; it is neither so elevated as the other, nor covered to the same extent with snow," Captain Ross describes the islands as follows :— " The weather was so hazy that we cuuld not perceive the land until we found ourselves within 2 or 3 miles of the southern point of the larger island. Sailing close along its south-eastern side, and at abont I mile south of the east cape, we sounded in 86 fathoms, fine sand, coral, and corallines. This line of coast is composed of black, perpendicular, volcanic cliffs, much worn away by the action of the waves. We observed two or three conical hit- locks, like the small craters of a volcano, of a deep red colour, whether arising from an oxide of irou, or vegetable matter, we could not discern. The south cape has a perpendicular face, the termination of a long terrace-like projection from the foot of the hills. The mountains in the centre of the island rise to a considerable height ; but their summits being enveloped in mist, we could not determine their elevation, although we could see they were partially, covered with snow. We imagined we could distinguish small trees ; still of thi$ there is considerable doubt. '* Long lines of seaweed extended 2 or 3 miles from the shore beyond the east cape, whilst stroug eddies of tide, occasioned probably by their meeting at this point, seeming to indicate concealed dangers, and darkness now coming on, we hauled off for the night, having first seen a small cove a short distance to the northward, where we hoped to be able to land the next morning. This part of the coast was populated by vast numbers of penguins, in groups of many thousands each, and other kinds of sea-birds were abundant. Some seals that were playing in the surf about the small detached rocks were pronounced to be of the far species (Arclocephalus Falhlandi' cus), by those well acquainted with them ; it is not improbable that on the western coast some of their haunts, or, as the sealers term them, ' rookeries,' might be found. ^ The soundings during the night were very irregular. A dredge put overboard for a short time in 95 fathoms, at about 5 or 6 miles east of the island, came up quite full of a small white coral, and between 30 and 40 different kinds of marine animals, corallines, flustrss, and sponges. At daylight in the morning we found that we had been carried so far to leeward by a strong tide, or more probably a current, and so heavy a swell prevailed from the westward, the forerunner of the coming gale, that I reluctantly gave up my intention of landing, rather than lose any more time in hopeless endeavours, and bore away for the Crozets. " There did not seem to be any bay along the north-eastern or south-eastern coast where a ship could find anchorage, unless it be just to the northward of the east cape, where we supposed we saw a small sandy beach between two extensive patches of seaweed ; nor did Commandeb Csozibb see any as he passed along the shore the next day in the Terror. He mentioned a remarkable detached tower-shaped rock, at some distance off the north cape. This promontory he found by good ob- servation to be in Lat. 46^ 53' S., and Long. 37^ 33' E., agreeing very nearly with Cook in the latitude, but differing considerably in the longitude. In the Erebw we were unfortunate in not getting observations near the southern part of the island ; nor could we approach the smaller north-eastern island sufficiently near to see any creeks or bays ; bnt I was afterwards told that sealers sometimes anchor at a place 49i ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. called Cavo bay, on ite east side, in Lat. 46° 40' S., with the N.E. point bearing N.E. by E. ; the Cave, W.N.W.; and Mary's point S.W. i S. in 8 or 10 fathoms of water." THE CROZET ISLANDS * The C&OZfiTB are sitaated between Lat. 46° and 46° 37' S., Long. 50° 20' and 52° 20^ E. — on the direct track of vessel? bound to the Australian colonies. The westernmost of the group is Bo§r island i the easternmost. Bast island i and the largest has received the name of Vossession island \ besides these, there are the Twelve Apostles to the north, and Venvnin islands to the south. Their relative positions will be seen by reference to the chart. They have not been surveyed, and are supposed to contain but one place of anchorage — viz., Sbip bay* at the S.E. end of Possession island, where vessels may ride in tolerable security sheltered from all winds except those from the south-eastward, to which quarter the bay ia open. The group is named after M. Ceozet, commander of the French ship JJojp, who discovered the islands in 1773. The only known sunken danger among the Crozets is a reef upon which the sea usually breaks, situated about midway between Hog island and the island south- eastward from it, named Penguin ; this reef is named Heroine breakers, from the French ship commanded by M. Cecille. On the west and north sides of Possession island there are some detached rocks. In Ship bay — the small bay at the south-east end of Possession island — the depth decreases from 17 fathoms at the entrance to 6 fathoms close to the shore at its head near the watering-place. The best place to anchor is in the middle of the bay in 9 fathoms, but care is required to keep clear of the rocks jutting out from the south shore ; the north shore of the bay is probably clear of sunken rocks. The Crozet islands were examined in 1838 by M. Cecille, of the French Nav^', in command of the Heroine, and from his published reportf the following is translated : — '* We began onr task in the N.W., with land which we have since found to be part of Hog island ; and running southward along the western shore of it, a mile distant, we satisfied ourselves that it was inaccessible. Having reached its southern extreme, the Twelve Apostles (a group of rocky islets) bore N, 26° E. 5 at the same time, breakera were reported at a considerable distance bearing S. 50^ E. We re- turned along the eastern coast of Hog island, and ascertained correctly that only the western coast of that island and the Twelve Apostles offered no shelter for ships. Wo then retraced our course to examine the dangerous breakers which had been re- ported, and which we had lost sight of, and at llh. they were three miles W. 28° S. of us. At midday we were enabled to obtain tolerably good observations, notwith- standing the horizon was not perfectly clear, and the sea was very high. We thus fixed the relative positions of the three islands, as well as the dangerous reef, which was still in sight. ** We then steered for the eastern group. At 4h. p.m. we perceived an island, not only more elevated but of much larger proportions than those we had visited, and which we concluded to be Possession island. At 6h. p.m. we neared a large perfo- * See Chart of the Cioieets, and Flan of Ship Bay. t Extralt da rapport, &c^ par H. Gjbcuxe, to which referenoe has already been made, p. 49 L. -Digrtized by- Google CROZET ISLANDS. 495 rated rock to the N.W. of the island, and not far from the shore ; from this rock we were enabled to see distinctly the whole of this steep coast entirely exposed to the wind, and against which the sea broke with all its fury." Captaiit Cbcille was unable to continue his exploration that day, being com- pelled to stand off; but he made the land again next day, when he says: — " We approached the perforated rook in order to proceed with our survey of the eastern coast. '' We had been for some time keeping a southern course along the land, when, on the 23rd of Norember, at 3h., we perceired off a point ahead of us two boats coming to meet us ; they were soon on board. The crews were Americans, each being com- manded by a captain of that nation, who informed us of the loss of their two vessels, the Atlas and Colossus, on Possession island, on the 4th of October preceding ; they also told us that the passage-boat, Bordelais, had been lying in Ship bay since the 6th of November. We proceeded thither, intending to anchor at the entrance of the bay, where we found her engaged in the fishery. " The resources of the Heroine offered to Captains Babkum and Randall, as well as twenty-five of their crews, were accepted with gratitude. I took them on board in order to transfer them to any ships of their own country that I might happen to meet at the different fishing-stations, or at any of the English colonies of Australia where there are consuls. My first care on arriving at the anchorage was to cause a correct survey of Ship bay to be made, so as to enable us to fix its position, hitherto so badly known,^a service which was performed by MM. Foubnieb and BTbratb, in the course of the day. "The Crozet islands, situated between Lat. 46° fV and 46° 34' S., Long. 50° 24' and 62° W E., are five in number, and are divided into two groups. The largest of the western group is Hog island, which is mountainous and high ; the coast in many places steep, without any bay or anchorage fi)r ships. The only parts at all accessible, and that with difficulty, are a few places on the eastern coast. It abounds with wild hogs and seals. At the distance of nine or ten miles E. 40° S. from the southern point of this island is a dangerous reef, which appeared to extend about a cable's length. It blew a gale all night, which made the danger formidable. " About eight or nine miles to the N.E. of Hog island are the Twelve Apostles, which, strictly speaking, are connected together. Formed by two islets of moderate height^ separated by a narrow channel and surrounded by ten or twelve small rocks, they appeared inaccessible on all sides. A danger is reported to lie three miles S.E. of the Apostles, but we coold not see it. '' The most southerly of the Crozets is Penguin island, formed by two very elevated idlets-— close together. It is six miles in circumference, and has the appearance of a sugar-loaf when seen from the N.E. It abounds with seals. " The eastern group of the Crozet islands is composed of Possession island and East island. On the S.E. of the former island is a small bay, about a quarter of a mile in depth, and about half that in width, called Ship (Navire) bay. It is situated at the termination of a deep valley, from whence a stream of delicious water runs into the sea. Being open to the E. and S.E. winds, which seldom blow with much vio- lence, bat sufficiently so as to produce a high sea and considerable surf, it is then very dangerous ; but these winds rarely blow between November and the end of February. The N.W. wind, which comes down the valley, is very strong } and when the N.E. and S.W. winds, which blow along the coast, are st; 496 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. snrf breaks violently, and renders communication with the land very difficult. Vesseln intending to remain here any time should ride with strong chains secured to the rocks on the shores of the bay, with the strongest chain to starboard, on account of the sea. Ship bay is the best place of shelter, and the most frequented by fisher- men ; water is easily obtained there. Its Lat. is 46^ 26' 18'' S., Long. 6P 60 E. " Two miles to the northward of Ship bay is the bay of Chaloupe, which offers no shelter except for boats. Three miles farther to the northward is America bay, moderately large. A ship anchored in 8 fathoms water at two cables length from a rock on the starboard side of the bay on entering, is tolerably protected from any wind between north and south, by the west; the bottom is sand and rock. It ia not advisable to stay long at this anchorage ; good water is found in a small river at the bottom of the bay. Three miles farther north is Hebe bay, where a vessel of that name was lost in 1831. It is small, and only fit for boats, which may find shelter under the lee of a rock in the middle of it. The western coast, with the exception of a reef lying three or four miles off the western point of Possession island, is clear of danger ; but as the sea there runs extremely high, it should be carefully avoided under a light wind or with uncertain weather. " East island, the most eastern of all the islands is very high and steep, access to it being only attained by a very small bay, situated on its N.W. part. It in not favourable for fishing, although seals in great numbers find more shelter on its southern side than on any of the other islands. All these islands are plainly visible in clear weather at the distance of twenty to twenty-five leagues; but, like Prince Edward islands, they are totally destitute of trees or bushes. Being nearly always covered with snow, the only vegetation is grass and a very hard sort of hollow- stemmed moss, which grows on a soil everywhere marshy, as well as on the sides of the mountains. This moss is of a reddish colour, and when squeezed emits a juioe of the same colour. The islands are an asylum for a prodigious number of birds of several species, and three kinds of penguins — viz., the royal, the tufled, and the common." The Crozets were subsequently visited in 1840 by Captain Sib Jaices Clabk Eo88, R.N., when on his Antarctic Voyage of Discovery in tlie JErebtis and Terror, and from his observations we make the following extract : — '* Land was seen at daylight bearing E. by S. at the distance of 10 miles. It proved to be Penguin or Inaccessible island, and well deserves either of the names it bears, for it was literally covered with penguins on all the ledges of its rugged shores, nor could we anywhere see a point on which it would be possible to land. " ' Pig or Hog island' of the sealers, was soon afterwards seen to the northward. It is the westernmost island of the group, and presented a much more agreeable aspect, but the weather being unfavourable, and its eastern, or lee side, having many dangerous reefs and detached rocks off it, we did not venture nearer than 2 or 3 leagues ; but after passing close to Inaccessible island, we shaped a course for the southern extreme of Possession island, which we had been informed extended as far as the 47th deg. of lat. During the night the wind increased to a strong breeze from the westward, with thick weather, and we were obliged to cany a heavy press of sail to clear the land under our lee, which we had scarcely acoomplished when a south-westerly gnle came on. " April 27. Although still very foggy at times, we were enabled to bear away at Digitized by LjOOQIC CEOZET ISLANDS. 497 10 A.K., and having passed over the assigned position of Possession island, we saw the land at 6 p.m. through the haze, 6 or 6 miles distant, but daylight was now almost gone; we nevertheless stood towards it> until darkness closed the scene, when the ship was hauled off for the night. " April 28. The morning was more clear, when as the day broke between 6 and 7 o'clock, we perceived the lofty mountains of East island 4 or 6 leagues directly to wmdward of us, so much had we been carried to the eastward during the night. The whole day was spent in beating up against the current and strong westerly breeze, and at sunset we were still several miles from the shore. I could not but regret this serious loss of time, but having appointed Possession island our first rendezvous, until the end of this month, in case of parting from the Jjerror^ I wished to communicate with one or other of the sealing parties, to ascertain whether they had seen her off the islands. I was still more aniions to land the provisions which I had on board for the winter stock of those people who might have been in much want of them. We therefore continued beating to windward all night, and at daylight, the fog having cleared away, we had a good view of this perfect mountain mass of volcanic land ; its shores, bold and precipitous with many projecting rocks, which seem to have been formed by the unceasing action of the waves cutting away the sofler parts, and with the exception of a single beach of some extent, on the north-east part of the island, affording no place where either a habitation could be built, or a boat land. " This beach appearing to us the only favourable spot for the sealing party, we fired several guns as we stood close in to the shore, and by these means attracted their notice, for we soon afterwards observed by our glasses a large fire on the east side of the bay, which the people had made to point out to us their location. We were still too far to leeward for them to venture off to us, and after beating to wind- ward until 2 P.M., when just as we could have fetched into the bay, the wind suddenly increased to a strong gale, and the violent gusts that rushed along the almost per- pendicular coast-line, raising the spoon-drift in clouds over us, reduced us to a close- reefed main topsail and storm staysails, under which, when within half a mile of the shore, we wore and stood off again, seeing the utter hopelessness of communicating with the party until the return of more moderate weather. We were greatly dis- appointed at being thus defeated ; but these frequent repulses only made us more determined to do our utmost to effect the objects we had in view ; and although we were driven by the gale and current far away to leeward, yet, towards evening, when it abated, we began to maintain our ground, and, by carrying a heavy press of sail throughout the night, we found ourselves the next morning (April 30) several miles to windward of East island, and had Possession island distinctly in sight on our weather bow. Knowing the greater facility of communicating with this land by reason of the shelter its extent affords from the strong westerly gales that blow almost continually except at this period of the year, and as the larger establishment of sealers was on this island, I preferred beating up to it as the weather was fine, and we were making good way, rather than run down to the leeward party at the risk of being again unable to land at their station. Soon after noon it fell quite calm ; and, after firing a few guns, we observed a white flag hoisted on a pole by the party in America bay ; we were at this time about 5 miles from the shore, and directly between Possession and East islands ; the weather was still too unsettled for a boat to come off to us. While lying becalmed in this passage we obtained ^(^^"^KfdVe 498 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. 85 fathoms, on a bank of sand, sheila, and corallines. At dusk, on a breeze springing up from the northvered to the S.E., covered with snow, the highest peak capped with clouds. At noon we were within 7 or 8 miles of the N.W. point; from this point the laud trended to the S.W. as far as I could see, the land high and bold. We sailed along the lioHh side two hours and a half at the rate of 10 knots. In passing along the north side, I saw an opening between two high hills, very like a fine harbour ; there apjpeartd a good bay outside, only open to N.W. winds. We passed two rocky islandsi about 6 or 7 miles from the large one, apparently quite barren. The large isklid preaented a magnificent spec- tacle; the sun shone brilliantly on its snow coveriQg;» and its highest peak seemed lost in the clouds. I could see the high land plainly »l> iundown, 50 miles distant. Lat. of N.W. end 53^ «' S., Long. 73° W E. Lat of S.E. end 53° 12', Long. 73° 50'. I nam^d this Dunn Island. " These islands would appear to have become, tkortly after their discovery, the resort of whalers, as wo learn from the Mauritius OtmmfrHal Gazette that Capt. BoGBBB, having received intimation concerning dl«lil, proceeded from Kerguelen island, as soon as the season would permit, in the ship Corinthian, to the neigh* bourhood, and found land, but whether a continent or island he could not tell ; how- ever, he returned to Kerguelen, and having pit)cured tenders, again started for this new land. Arrived there with the Corinthian, Atime, and Mechanic, in March, 1855, sending Caft. Beown, of the Atlas, on shoTO to look for a harbour. Caft. BooBBB, at the same time, sailed under easy cantaa along the land, making his observations upon the coast Finally, they discoverod a small creek in Lat (according to Capt. Bogbrs, a good observer) 53° W S., Long. ffP 31' E. Caft. Chubch says it is in Long, (according to his chronometer) 78^ OO'. Caft. Rooebs states, on looking from a small promontory, he saw at once elephants and sea leopards enough to fill 100,000 barrels with oil. " Caft. Bogbbi sailed along the N.E. side of this Island, about 30 miles, and discovered one small harbour, where he anchored the Aitae and Corinthian ; but it seems to be an unsafe harbour. He lay ten dayS| he says, in great danger with a S.E. gale blowing. " A reef of rocks W. by N. (true), 40 to 42 miles (Voiii the N.E. end of the land. " The mainland itself seems to be covered with ice and perpetual snow, and can only become a whaling station, as there is not a blade of grass to be seen during the height of summer. " Caft. Mbteb, of the La Bachelle, from Hamburg, is the next who reports the discovery of islands hereabout :— " On the morning of January 10th, 1857, wttii a fresh breeze from N.E., the Rochelle was pursuing her voyage in the Great Southern Ocean near the parallel of 53° S., at the rate of 11 knots an hour. The rain was almost incessant and the atmosphere very foggy, so that there was scarcely a hope of getting a good observa- tion that day. Towards mid -day, however, the fog and mist partially cleared away, when, at no great distance from the ship, a sugar-loaf rock was seen, and almost at the same instant a saddle-shaped island. At Oh, 15m. f.m., they bore N. by HEARD OR McDonald islands. 608 compau, distant from 2 to 2^ miles ; shortly afterwards the look-out announced a second isknd to leeward, the summit of which stood out above the clouds surround* ing its base ; it bore S. by E., while the first island lay N.N. W. from us, whereupon the course was changed from S.E. to S. " At Ih. 6m. P.M., we had a clear sky, and an altitude of the sun was taken, for a reduction to the meridian ; again, at 2h. 38m. p.m., we had another observation, and at 6h. 30m. a third; from these, combined with our courses and bearings, we deter- mined the following positions : — Lat. S. Long. E. The Sugar-loaf rock 63° 8''4i ... 72°28''7 The North extremity of the larger islAnd. . . 53° Id' ... 72P 4^ The Peak near the north end ditto . . . 53° ir*5 ... 72° 56' The South extremity ditto . . . 53° 5(y ... 78^ 6'-6 '* The middle of the strait separating the two islands is in about Lat. 53° ICV S., Long. 72° 36' E. of Qreenwich, and while in it we experienced a strong set (? tidal) to the S.S. W.-ward ; there was also a difficulty in keeping clear of the floating ice, of which it was full. " As already observed, the first island, as seen firom a ship to the westward of it at the distance of 2 or 3 miles, appears saddle-shaped ; but on steering south the two peaks open out more, leading us to think that a small arm of the sea separates them. The lofliest peak was found by observation to be 286 feet high, and tiie island about ^ miles in extent, N. by W. ^ W. and S. by E. i E. " As we sailed along the southern and greater island, we could distinguish at about 4 miles S.E.-ward of its northern extremity a peak higher than that just mentioned. The coast appeared to be steeper and more broken to the south, where it terminates in its loftiest height, 1000 feet. The entire length of the island was 36 miles,* and at about a third of this distance firom the northern end was a small ba}', near which was a large islet. As evening drew on we were at its S.W. ex- tremity, whence it stretched 20 miles to the eastward, which we had passed by 6 F.U., and at 8 p.m. the whole group had disappeared below the horizon. "The land wore a winterly and truly antarctic aspect; ice-dad moimtains rose high into the clouds; and only here and there was the naked iron-bound coast visible, with isolated patches of green showing through the snow, while in a few places the melting of the latter was productive of a waterfall tumbling from crag to crag. The only signs of life in these frozen regions were immense flocks of birds, among which were recognised the penguin and the albatross. " February, 1858. — Lastly, we have Capt. Cubins, of the Caribou, making the north extreme of one of the islands in Lat. 63° 1' S., Long. 73° 7' B., and giving the following description : — " On February 22nd, wind westerly, brisk gale with snow squalls ; at 10*33 a.m. in a clear between the squalls, I fancied I saw land to the southward ; took in studding-sails, shortened sail, and stood towards it. At 1.30 p.m. hove to abreast an island, with the centre bearing S.S.W., about 12 miles; lowered a lifeboat, and sent * Another account in the Neue MUnchencr Zeituiig states, that the greater Uland is 10 German miles from N. to S., and about 12 German miles £. and W. (The German mile is about 4^ miles Knglish.) And the group lies between Lut. 53' 8' S., Long. 72*^ 34' E., and Lat. 53° 47' S., Long. 78" 40' K. of Greenwich the supposition that he was Ich. These islands were named the King Max by Capt. ll£r£R.o|i the first to discover them. aitzed by VjUU^H^ 501. ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. ])cv to the laud. I afterwards stood in to about nine miles off shore, and got no ground with 120 fathoms of line. The island appeared to be in a S.E. and N.W. direction, about 25 miles, its southern extreme trending to the S.W., forming a deep bight on its western side, which was entirely snow-clad, and gave it the appearance of a great barrier of ice. The greater part of the island was covei-ed with snow ; there was a remarkable group of high rocks lying off to the N.E. fi-om the S.E. part of the island, apparently 6 or 7 miles, and on the N.W. extreme an iceberg aground. The island was cloud-capped, bat I think that iu greatest elevation could not be less than 450 feet above the level of the sea. While hove to, awaiting our boat's return, I was astonished to see vessels at anchor in a bay, we having opened it through drifting to the S.E. One of the vessels got under weigh, when I stood towards it ; it proved to be the American schooner Oxford, of Fairhaven. They put out a boat, and the master came on board ; he told me they called it Kurds island, and that it was discovered by them eighteen months before. He seemed annoyed that my boat had landed, and advised me to go and leave her behind, saying she would never return ; but I told him I would never leave her while I had another boat to seek for her. I was very anxious, for it was then sundown, and darkness coming on fast ; but while speaking, the look-out at the masthead reported the boat in sight. He then became more communicative, and told me they were after oil ; that the shores of the island swarmed with sea elephants, and that they had sent to America from the island since the discovery 25,000 barrels of oil. The island was bold on the N.E. side, and no hidden dangers ; and the bay where the vessels lay was a fine bay, or natural harboar, with good anchorage ; no sunken dangers, with 12 to 20 fathoms all over, and sheltered from all winds except a north-easterly, with a fine river of fresh water at the head of it. He also told me that there was another island west of Kurds, distance some 30 miles, and another E.S.E. 70 miles, both of which he had seen, but never landed on them. My own officers that went in the boat con- firmed his statement of the sea elephants, and of the island being well watered ; there were penguins and other birds in myriads, and on an island about a mile apart from the main appeared to be a great mound of guano. Whilst lying-to I went to look at my abstract, and it made me shudder to think tliat only twelve months befora I ran past the island at midnight in a heavy gale of wind, not more than four or five miles distant, ignorant of its existence. My greatest wish on sending my boat to the island was to find out if there were any shipwrecked persons on it whom I might relieve. It was entirely of volcanic origin, my officers having found the surface composed of ashes. I made the northern extreme of the island in Lat. 53*1 S., Long. 73*7 E. — good chronometers. " From these aooounts, we come to the following conclusion : that there can be no doubt the observations of Captains Heabd, McDonald, Hutton, Attwaye, Reeb, Rogbbb, Meter, and Gubins, refer to the same group of islands— but the difference of position requires a few remarks. " The positions given by Capt. Attwate coincide with those of Captain Heabd ; and are we therefore to conclude that they refer to islands not seen by Captains M'DoNALD, HuTTOK, Rees, Meyeb, and Rooebs? We think we are scarcely warranted in such a oonclusion. Something must be allowed for the estimation of distance from the islands ; and as all persons are not equally gifted in this respect, we may say the differences in the latitude are not large. But of the longitude, the dif- Digitized by LjOOQ IC Digitized by Google J ^ femcyvR h^ IitnaiS.1. «^* Sobttary I. ^^ SOT :6^''S^fr 6Sf J»' 7Sr KEBGUELEN ISLAND. 505 Terence of the extremes is 2° 26', equivalent to 88 miles on the parallel of 53^. Now, from the general description, by all parties, of the characteristic features of the land, we believe we are warranted in saying that there is one gmall island near to which w a large pinnacle rock ; S,E, of this small island is a much larger (me, and separating them there is a navigable channel, when free from ice, and we therefore draw the inference that the discrepancy in position as regards longitude arises partly from calculation, but more largely from ei^or of chronometers, a subject which does not sufficiently receive the attention of captains. Two very important articles, the firnt — ' On the Variation in the Bates of Chronometers,'* and the second — ' On the Importance of Testing Chronometers before they are used at Sea,t written by Johk Habtnup, Esq., F.R.S.A., Superintendent of the Liverpool Observatory, are recom- mended for careful perusal, and captains will there see to what errors they are sub- jected. We may say, then, that the position of these isknds is only approximately known, and caution is requisite in sailing near the parallel of 53° S. between Long. 72'^ and 76° E. ; but taking the mean of Hutton's, Bbss', Meteb's, and Cu bins' reports, we have for the North part of the larger island, Lat. 63° 3' S., Long. 73° 15' E. ;— and for its south end (mean of Bees' and Meteb's observations) Lat. 63° 31' S., Long. 73° 28' E. " We may here incidentally mention, that it is bj' no means impossible that shoals and rocks may be met more to the northward and eastward, as the following account will show :— 'Captain Ikglis, of the Gauntlet, of Liverpool, passed Kerguelen island on the 11th November, 1853, in Lat. 63° S. He here encountered continual snow- storms for a fortnight, accompanied by N. and N.E. winds. In Lat. 50° 5(y S., Long. 77° SC E., he passed over a bank of shoal water, the water suddenly becoming of a muddy appearance, and he has no doubt but that he passed within a very short distance of some hitherto undiscovered shoal, or island, as the water became perfectly smooth ; but, in consequence of the heavy fall of snow. Captain Inglis was unable to make such minute observations as he otherwise would have done. This shoal, or island, was observed by the crew and passengers as well as by the captain, who called them to witness the discovery he had made. Observing the blue water ran to the S.E. off the shoal, he steered away direct S. for one hour, going 13 knots, and then dropped suddenly into blue water. Captain Inglis strongly recommends all navigators running from England to Australia^ to keep a look-out when they arrive in this latitude.' " KEBGUELEN ISLAND. This large island, situated between Lat. 48° 4Cy and 50^ (V S., and Long. 68° ^ and 70° 40^ E., was discovered by M. de Kebguelen in 1772. It has not been surveyed, and the only pai-t of it of which we have any knowledge is the eastern coast, where the irregularity of the coast line forms several large bays of great depth, affording good and secure anchorage. Christmas harbour, a small inlet under cape Pran^ais, the north end of the island, was surveyed by Captain Sib Javes Clabk Boss, B.N., in 1840, and observed to be in Lat. 48° 41' S. and Long. 69° 3' E. Some islets lie off the noi-th and west shores of the island at, in some instances, 15 miles from it, — and one, named Solitary island, is even at a greater • '* Mer. Mar. Mag.;* vol. i. p. 401-6. t Ibid., g^?yiM«bgie 506 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAJ^ OCEAN. distance; hence, in foggy weather, more than ordinary care id required when approaching it on this side. Kerguelen island is seated upon a bank of soundings, the e^itent of which is un- certain. Captaik Ross, B.N., mentions that In his approach to the island from the Cape of Good Hope, he obtained soundings of 145, 120, and 116 fathoms, fine black sand and small stones, at from 25 to 15 miles westward from Bligh's Cap,* and subsequently in the run from that islet to cape Fran^ais had 70 to 80 fathoms, rocky bottom. In his attempt to enter Christmas harbour a heavy gale drove him from the land in a north-easterly direction, and afterwards, when regaining the land, a connected series of soundings was obtained on the bank, which was found to extend above 100 miles from the cape ; the bottom consisted of black sand and rock. To this bank the name of Erebus was g^ven, from one of the ships of the Expedition. In the direction of E. by S. {ntag, P) from cape Fran^ais, distant 16 or 16 miles, there is a dangerous reef, named Terror reef, upon which the sea breaks. Cape Fran^ais, the north-east point of Kerguelen island, is a striking object from sea, being very bold and making in terraces ; it is also surmounted by a conical hill 1200 feet high, having a crater-shaped summit. Immediately under cape Fran^ais, on it8 south-east side, is Christmas harbour (previously mentioned), one of the best places of anchorage iu the island, and so named by Captain Cooe because ho anchored there on December 25th, 1776. CluiatnuM Barbour is safe and commodious, and affords good anchorage in every part. It is about 2 miles in extent, N.W. and S.E., and three-quarters of a mile wide at the enti'ance, which rapidly decreases towards its head ; the depth is 32 to 4 fathoms, on fine black sand. The head of the harbour is separated from tho west coast of the island only by a low, narrow isthmus, scarcely a mile across, con- sisting of low ridges with intervening swampy ground and two lakes. When at anchor just outside the harbour in 4:6 fathoms, black sand. Captain Cook observed that the flood-tide came from S.E., at the rate of 2 miles an hour at least. Abun- dance of fresh water can be obtained here, but no wood. Captain Cook says: " The situation alone is sufficient to distinguish this haibour from any of the other inlets ; and, to make it more remarkable, its south point terminates in a high rfick, which is perforated quite through, so as to appear like the arch of a bridge. We saw none like this upon the whole coast. The harbour has another distinguishing mark within, from a single stone or rock, of a vast size, which lies on the top of a hill on the south side, near its bottom ; and opposite this, on the north side, there is another hill, much like it, but smaller. There is a small beach at its bottom, where wo commonly landed, and behind it some gently rising ground, on the top of which there b a large pool of fresh water. The land on both sides of it is high. Tho shores aie steep, and the bottom is everywhere a fine dark sand, except in some places close to the shore, where there are beds of seaweed, which always grows on rocky ground. The head of the harbour lies open only to two points of the compass, and even these are covered by islands in the offing, so that no sea can fall in to hurt a Hhip. Tho appearances on shoi*e confirmed this, for wo found grass growing close to high water mark, which is a sure sign of a pacific liarbour."f « Obsened by Captain Cook to be in Lat. 48"" 29' 8., and Long. 68*^ 10' E. It is probably the nonhernmost of the islctft off the N.-AV. shore of the island. t The arched roclc mentioned by Captain Cook is 150 feet high, and the base of the areh is 100 feet across ; it is wlioUj composed of basalt. The Table MounUin. on tii^iio^L^^^ ^ the KEEQUELEN ISLAND. 507 Cnmb«fiauiA B^y. — ^Prom Christmfts harbour, cape Cuinberland, the north point of Cumberland bay, is distant about 3 mUes in a southerly direotiou ; between, the irregularity of the coast line forms two bays, named Foul Haven and Mussel,* and the headland which divides the bays is a wall of basalt almost perpendicular, having deep water at a short distance from its base, as Captiin Cook, when coasting along, seldom struck ground with a line of 50 or 60 fathoms. Cape Cumberland is a bold headland, with a small but moderately high basaltic islet off it, known as the Sentry Box, in consequence of a rock on its summit bearing a striking resemblance to a sentry box ; eastward of this islet, about 2 miles, and separated by a channel more than 40fkthoms deep, there is a cluster of small islets and rocks with broken ground about them. The south point of the bay, named point Pringle, is distant from cape Cumber- land about two miles in a southerly direction. It is composed of basalt. Cumberland bay is a narrow inlet, trending in a general direction of W. by S. for about 12 miles. Its head is separated from the western coast of the island only by a narrow isthmus of moderate height ; at this end of the bay there is a creek having a depth of 10 to 3 fathoms, beyond which is a swampy valley ; at two miles from the head of the creek is a lake 1^ miles long and nearly half a mile broad, filling up a pass in the mountains which rise above it to the height of about 2500 feet. On this isthmus several loose pieces of coal have been found.t When proceeding up Cumberland bay two inlets will be perceived at about 7 miles from the entrance, situated nearly opposite each other ; that on the south shore runs into the land 1^ miles, is a mile broad in its widest part, but only one-third of a mile broad at its entrance ; its soundings are unknown. The northern inlet is not so largo as the southern, and is said to have a depth of about 6 fathoms. Cumberland bay has not been sounded, nor have its shores been examined with that care and attention which would enable us to say if there are any sunken rocks off them. It is believed to be very deep in mid-chaimel, an impression conveyed by the bold cliffs on each side of it. The anchorages are probably superior to those of Christmas harbour, as they are not exposed to such violent winds ; but they are not so ready of access, and can only be reached during clear and moderate weather. mniite Say. — In a S. by W. direction from point Pringle (about 4 miles) is White Bay point, the extreme eastern end of the south shore of an extensive bay, named by harbour, Li 1S51 f«et high ; its top lias the fbrm of a crater. Beds of coal exist on the south ■here of the harbour, and sereral fomfl trees hare been dug: up, which prore that afes ago the island most have been well wooded ; now, it is quite bare of eren shrubs, almost the only vege- tation consisting of grass. Dr. Hooker, the botanist to the expedition under Captain Sir Jamks Clark Boss, B.N., mentions a valuable kind of cabbage which grows on the island. " To a crew long confined to salt ptovisions, or. indeed, to human beings under any circum- staneei, this Is a most important vegetable, for it possesses all the essentially good qualities of its English namesake, whilst fh>m its containing a great abundance of essential oil, it never pro- duces heartburn nor any of those disagreeable sensations which our pot-herbs are apt to do. It abounds near the sea, and ascends the hills to their summits. The leaves form heads of the size of a good cabbage-lettuce, generally terminating an ascending or prostrate stalk, and tlie spike of flowers, borne on a leaiy stem, rises ih>m below the head, and is often two feet high. The root tastes like horse-radish, and the young leaves or hearts resemble in flavour coarse inustnrd- and-creKS. For one hundred and thirty days our crews required no fresh vegetable but this, which was for nine weeks regularly served out with the salt beef or pork, durinjf which time there was no sickness on board." * Captain Cook considered that these bays might possibly aflbrd good shelter to shipping. t Beds of coal evidently exist in Kergnelen island, but whether in snfiRcient quantity to be usefiil to steamers has yet to be proved. Some of that discovered was very light and friable, with a beaatifia black gloesy fracture, and, like canncl coal, did not soil the fingers. ,OOQ[^ 508 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. Captain Cook White bay, because of some white spots of land or xock he saw at the bottom of it. Off this point there are several rocks above and uuder water. White bay contains many small bays and ooves, which doubtless afford good an- chorage, and may be run for, if proper care be exercised. Loom and Teal bays, two small inlets on the north shore just within the entrance, are said to have a depth of about 7 fathoms. Bowea Vorelandf A««— From Pringlo point to Howes foreland the distance is about II miles in a S.E. i £. direction. This is a projecting point of land joined to the shore by alow isthmus ; the bay between White bay and this point, or that im- mediately westward of this point, is called Repulse bay, — Captain Cook having at first supposed the point to be an island, and attempted to pass southward of it^ Some rocks and breakers lie near this point on its north-west side, and two islands, separated from it by a navigable channel, are situated 4^ miles south-eastward from it. Howes foreland is of moderate height, and hilly. The coast is low, with rocky points projecting from it, between which are little coves with sandy beaches. XtaoOe Bay.— The entrance to this bay is 7 to 10 miles southward from the exti*emity of Howes foreland, and is fronted by rocks and extensive beds of weed. Tiio bay has two branches that run in W.S.W. and W.N.W. from 16 to 18 miles, and its head is separated from Whale bay only by an isthmus not more than three- quarters of a mile broad, across whicb a boat may be hauled, and so save a detour of 60 miles, if wishing to go into Hillsborough bay, of which Whale bay is the north- western branch. Bhode bay is almost unknown, but is believed to contain several good harbours. The depth at its head is reported to be 26 to 18 fathoms. The beds of weed just mentioned appear from the following remarks of Captain Cook to be in deep water. He says — *' As soon as we were clear of the rocks and ihlandn off Howes foreland I gave orders to steer S.E. by S. (true) along the coast. But before tliese orders could be carried into execution, we discovered the whole sea before us to be chequered with large beds of rock-weed, which we knew to be fast to the bottom, and to grow on rocky shoals. I had often found a great depth of water on such shoals ; and I had as often found rocks that have raised their heads nearly to the surface of the water. It is always dangerous, therefore, to sail over them before they are well examined ; but more especially when there is no surge of the eea to discover the danger. This was the case at pi*esent, for the sea was as smooth as a mill-pond. Consequently, we endeavoured to avoid them, by steering through the winding channels by which they were separated; we kept the lead continually going, but never struck ground with a line of 60 fathoms. This circumstance increased the danger, as we could not anchor, whatever necessity there might be for it. After running in this manner above an hour, we discovered a lurking rock just even with tiie surface of the sea ; it bore N.E. \ E. (true) distant 3 or 4 miles, and ky in the middle of one of these large beds of weeds. This was a sufficient warning to make us use every precaution to prevent our coming upon tbem. "We were now across the mouth of a large bay (Rhode bay) that lies about 8 miles to the southward of Howes foreland. In and before the entrance of this bay are several low islands, rocks, and those beds of sea-weed; but there seemed to be winding channels between them. Aft»r continuing our course half an hour longer, we were so much embarrassed by these shoals that I resolved to hauljoC .tQ the Digitized by ' had off , to /L^OOgie KBRGUELEN ISLAND. 509 eutward, as the likelient mdaDs of extricating oarselves from the danger that threatened us. Bat so far was this from answering the intended purpose, that it hronght ns into more. I therefore found it absolately necessary to secure the ships, if possible, in some place before night, especially as the weather had now become hazy, and a fog was apprehended. Seeing some inlets to the S. W. of us, I ordered Captaik Clbbkb, as the DUeovery drew less water than the Resoluium, to lead in for the shore ; which was accordingly done. " In standing in, it was not possible to avoid running over the edges of some of the shoals, on which we found from 10 to 20 fathoms water; and the moment we were over had no ground at the depth of 50 fathoms. After making a few boards to weather a spit that ran out from an island on our lee, Captain Clbres made the signal for having discovered a harbour, which was afterwards named Port Palliser.'* Vort Valllaer. — ^This harbour is situated in Lat 49° 3' S., and about Long. 69® 37' E. It has a general direction of W.S.W. (true) for about 6 miles, and is not more than a mile broad at the entrance, whence it gradually narrows towards its head. The soundings are very irregular, from 37 to 10 fathoms, on ^wd sand, except under the beds of sea-weed, which in many places extend from the shore nearly half channel over. The shores on each side are rooky and barren. In and outside the entrance there are several islands, rocks, and sunken dangers, between which and the north head of the harbour is the navigable channel, through which Captain Cook sailed when he was here in 1776. His anchorage was in 16 &thoms» fine dark sand, at about three-quarters of a mile from the shore, with the north point of the harbour bearing N. by E. ^ E. distant 1 mile, and the small islands in the entrance from East to S.E. {true hearings), A little cove in the north point of the harbour is named Penguin cove. This port appears to be well sheltered from the prevailing southerly and westerly winds. Captain Bhobbs, 1799, says — ** If bound to port Palliser from Christmas harbour, leave the islands off that harbour on the port hand, and steer S.E. by S. along the land at a distance of about 3 or 4 leagues. This course will carry you between the beds of kelp and sea-weed that lie off the coast; and when you have run the distance of 17 miles from cape Franfais, Howes foreland will bear S.W. distant 7 or 8 miles ; at the same time, a ledge of rocks may be seen from the deck bearing N.E., distant 6 or 6 miles. You may then steer South to S. by W., until you have run about 15 miles, leaving several small islands on your port hand, when you will open the bay in which port Palliser is situated, which may be known by a small round island off Penguin cove, which forms the harbour. Leave this island on the port hand, and the course in is W. by N., where there is a good anchorage iu from 7 to 9 fiithoms water. (All eompaes hearings.)"* QA.'nka Cook observes — ** In getting out to sea from port Palliser we had to steer through the winding channels amongst the shoals. However, we ventured to run over some of them, on which we never found less than 18 fathoms, and often did not strike ground with 24 ; so that, had it not been for the sea-weed growing upon all of them, they would not have been discovered." « The varlstlcMi in 1776 was olMenred by Captain Gook to be 27° 4ft' W. It is noir about 38° W. Captaiv Bhodes visited many of tbe harboun in Hillsborough bay, and gave names to Ihem. Ue is said to have explored not Ibwer than iifty inlets or coves, where ships of any tonnags asighi ride in perfect safety in the most tempestnoos seasons. h h L OOQ I C 510 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. aiilfl1>oroii|:]i aay.— Between Howes foreland and monnt Campbell, a din* lance of about 40 miles, the coast bends inwards and forms a large bay, named by Caftain Ruodes HilUborough bay, after his vessel the Stllsborauffh» It contains many harbours and anchoring places, the situations of which can be best seen by a reference to the chart A prodigious quantity of weed {JUcus giganieus) grows all over it, some of which is of enormous length, though the stem is not much thicker tlian a man's thumb. The only description of this bay is the following by Caftaiv lliioDEs, dated 1799 ; the bearings are magnetic, tokd have reference to the variation of that year, which was about 27'' 45' W. ;— " From port Palliser to cape Henry, the north head of HilUborough bay, the course is S. by W., and the distance 12 or 13 miles. On leaving port Palliser steer E.S.E. until you are beyond all the beds of kelp, and then the above course will carry you clear of all dangers until you arrive off cape Henry. This cape is on an island, and forms a high bliiff headland, and there are several smaller islands and rocka both north and south of the cape. Between port Palliser and cape Henry there are seven different bays, of considerable extent, with coves that form good harboun>, all trending infrom W.toW.N.W. ''From Howes ibreland, or any of the projecting points or headlands that form the several bays and inlets between it and cape Henry, mount Campbell may be seen, aa also the low land of cape Digby. The mountain has a round top, is of a moderate elevation, and may be seen, in clear weather, at 15 or 16 leagues' distance. In running down the coast, mount Campbell will be discovered some time before you raise the low laud of the cape, whiuh forms its termination at 1^ miles from it j it in distant from any other mountain 7 or 8 miles, and bears from Howes foraland S.E. ; mount Campbell and oape Digby are the best guides into Hillsborough bay.* " When arrived off cape Henry, you will open Whale bay, so named from the groat numbers of whales that frequent the place at a certain season of the year. In the luuuth of this bay is a small reef, which always shows itself, and lies about 6 miles H. by W. from cape Henry. You may go on either side of the reef; but if intending tu enter Hillsborough bay, steer for the group of islands which lies to the S.S.W. of the reef, and about 3 miles from it. You may anchor within those islands, in any depth from 20 to 7 fathoms on good holding ground. There are here several inlets and coves, which afford good harbours. Keep those islands on the starboard hand, and yuu will soon shut in mount Campbell,— and Seal island will be on with cape Daniel and the south head of Hillsborough bay : then steer S.W. until you raise a small reef which lies in the middle of the bay, near the entrance of Hunter's sound, ♦Here you will have from 36 to 42 fathoms on a soft muddy bottom. " Leave this reef on the ix>rt hand and steer W. by N. ; this coarse will carry you to Winter harbour, which is distant from the group of islands 14 miles. You will here find a safe and good hm*bour, where you may anchor in from 7 to 9 fathoms. *' When the western extreme of the island bears north, you will then be shut in and entirely landlocked ; here you will have from 15 to 26 fathoms on a soft muddy • '* The land here is low and level ; the mountains ending about five leagues fixna the low point, a great extent of low land is lelT, on which mount Campbell is situated, about four miles from. the foot of the mountains, and one ftom the sea coast. These mountains hare considerable elevation, as also have most of the inland ones. They seemed to be composed of naked rooks, whose summits were capped with snow. Nor did the valleys appear to greater advantage. To what« ever quarter we directed our glasses, nothing but sterility was to be seen.'*— Oaptaut ~ Digitized by VjO' 5§I-e KEBGUELEN ISLAND, $11 bottom ; bnt when you advance 4 or 5 miles farther up the sound, you will find from 70 to 100 fathoms near Baven and Duck islands. ** Wliale Bay, to the northward of Hunter sound, affords several good harbours. '* Zrisli aajr lies to the southward of Winter harbour, and likewise affords some very good harbours. " Foundry Branob, so named from the great quantity of iron ore and limestone found there, oontains many inlets and coves, in which ships may anchor protected from all winds or weather. This branch lies 8.E., about 13 miles from Winter harbour. " aUsalMtIs Sarboiir bears E. by 8. from Winter harbour ; there is good anchorage in it, in from 4 to 9 fathoms water. There is a reef in the mouth of it, which you may pass on either side in perfect safety, and will not find less than 9 or 10 fathoms uutil well within the reef. " Betsy Gove, which lies in the head of Accessible bay, is an excellent harbour, and lias from 6 to 7 fathoms water over a tough blue clay. It is the southernmost bar- hour in the coast north of cape Digby, and is about 8 miles from it. " When passing cape Digby, it will be necessary to give it a berth of 3 miles, to clear the spit that runs out from it to nearly that distance." When approaching cape Digby (cape Sandwich of the Admiralty chart, No. 2398) from the north-westward, Caftaik Cook 'first struck the bottom in 18 fathoms, fine sand, and afber a run along the land for about 3 miles, sounded again and had 13 fathoms, when seeing the shoal water jutting out from the cape he hauled off about 3 miles, and inci'eased the depth to 26 fathoms. This depth was continued and the bottom of fine sand prevailed, till the cape bore West (trtiti) dis- tant 6 miles, when the water increased to 26 fathoms, and soundings were imme- diately afterwards lost. crape Blgby is in Lat. 49"^ 23' S., and Long. 70^ 34^ E. From this point the land trends W. by S. ^ S. 12 or 15 miles to a low point named point Oharlotte, which is the southernmost of the low coast. At 18 miles from cape Digby, in the direction of S.W. by W. i W., there is a moderately high projecting point, named Prince of Wales*s foreland ; and 18 miles beyond that in the same direction is cape George, in Lat. 49^ 54' S., and Long. 70^ 13' E., which was considered by Captain Cook to be tbe southernmost point of the island. Captain Cook, in his concluding remarks on Kerguelen island, says*— " Between point Charlotte and Prince of Wales's foreland, where the counti'y to the south-west began again to be hilly, is a deep inlet, which was called Boyal Sotiad. It runs in West (irue), quite to the foot of the mountains which bound it on the south-west, as the low land before mentioned does on the north. There are i:ilands lying in the entrance, and others higher up, so far as we coald distinguish. As we advanced to the southward, we observed, on the south-west side of Prince of Wales's foreland, another inlet into Itoyal Sound ; and it then appeared that the foreland was the east point of a large island lying in the mouth of it There are several small islands in this inlet, and one about a league to the southward of Prince of Wales's foreland. " All the land on the south-west side of Royal Sound, quite to cape George, is composed of elevated hills, that rise directly from the sea, one behind another, to a considerable height. Most of the summits were capped with snow, and they appeared as naked and barren as any we had seen. The smallest vestige of a tree or shrub Wixa not discoverable, cither inland or on the coast ; and I think I may venture to 512 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. proncmnce that the ootuitry prodaoes none. The low land ahoat cape Digby, when examined through our glasses, resembled the rest of the low land we had before met with ; that is, it appeared to be partly naked and partly covered with a green turf. The shore is composed of sandy beaches, on which were many penguins and other oceanic birds ; and an immense number of shags kept perpetually flying about the ships as we sailed along. " Being desirous of getting the length of cape Qeotge, to be ansuxed whether it was the most southerly point of the whole land, I continued to stretch to the south, under all the sail we could carry, till half-past seven o'clock ; when, seeing no likelihood of accomplishing my design, as the wind had, by this time, shifted to W.S.W., the very direction in which we wanted to go, I took advantage of the shift- ing of the wind, and stood away from the coast. "At this time cape George bore S. 53^ W. (true), distant about seven leagues. A small island that lies off the pitch of the cape, was the only land we could see to the south of it ; and we were further confirmed that there was no more in that quarter by a south-west swell, which we met as soon as we brought the cape to bear in this direction. " But we have still a stronger proof that no part of this land can extend much, if at all, to the southward of cape George, — ^and that is, Captaik Fubhbaux's track in February, 1773, after his separation from me during my hie voyage. His log- book is now lying before me ; and I find from it that he crossed the meridian of this land only about 17 leagues to the southward of cape George, a distance at which it may very well be seen in dear weather. This seems to have been the case when Captair Fubnbaux passed it, for his log-book makes no mention of fogs or hazy weather ; on the contrary, it expressly tells us that, when in this situation, they had it in their power to make observations, both for latitude and longitude, on board his ship ; so that, if this land extends farther south than cape George, it would have been scarcely possible that he should have passed without seeing it" AMSTERDAM ISLAND. , discovered by AhthonioVan Diekbk, June 18, 1633,* is only about 4 miles across, and 2891 feet high ; it is situate in Lat 37^ SS' SC/' S., and Long. 77° 34' 44'' E.f It has not been surveyed. Anchorage may probably be obtained off its south side, as Vlaukikg, the Dutch navigator, is reported to have anchored there in 1696 in 16 fathoms, black sand, at about a cannon-shot from the shore, and to have subsequently landed and made an unsuccessful search for water. The only descriptions we have of the island are the following :— Mb. John Wanb, midshipman of the Morse in 1770, writes : ''This island, at the distance of 3 or 4 miles, appears to be small, and of a moderate height, but, on a nearer approach, the fog clearing away, we observed it to be very high land, of a TT— ^ * See a Tcry iDtercsting article upon the discovery of this Island In the **Naatical Magazine,** 1864, coutributed by M. L. C. D. Van Dyk, of Amsterdam, who maintains that the island should properly be named New Amsterdam. t This is according to the obserraiions of the Austrian frigate Xovara In 18S7 ; the point of obsenration was not stated, but we suppose it to be on Its 8.E. side. The highest summit of the island was found to be 2881 feet, the second highest S651 feet; the leugtii of the south coast 8S,SS9 ftet, and of the western shore S«07 feet In Uie ** Australia JMreotory," vol. i., published by the Admiralty, the position of the island Is stated to be Lat if if' 8., Long. 1T* S5' £. ; D*£iiTRXCA8TEUx detenulned the west point of the island to be in Lat 87^ 47' 46" S., Long. 77*^ 26' 6" E., which Is evidently Incorrect. Digitized by LjOOQ IC SKETCJ1 or AMSTERDAM I? Digitized by Google Digitized b/ Google AMSTEBDAM ISLAND. 513 pyramidal shape^ and about 12 miles in circumference. Ships that go the outward passage to India mostly make Amsterdam, but seldom see the height of it, on account of the weather being generally hazy. The Morse sent her boat on shore, in which I went, and, to the best of my remembrance, the particulars are as follows : We sailed round the island, but found no place to land, on account of the rocks, which are almost perpendicular, and rather inclining over the sea, and at a great height above the surface of the water. There are a great number of these extending round it, for the space of :^ of a mile, having about 2 feet water on them. You have sound- ings oif the island, but very uneven, except on the north part, where they are more regular and &ee from rocks. Ships may anchor there in 7 fathoms, sandy ground, distant off the rocks 1 mile, — ^but not with safety, as there is a high swell, and it gene- rally blows hard. We came to a grapnel, to leeward of the island, with a deter- mination to land if possible, and, after several attempts, we succeeded, but with great difficulty and danger. The method of our landing was thus : One of the crew swam ashore, and after many efforts, being beaten off several times by seas, he ascended the rocks ; this man carried the end of a deep-sea line with him, the other end being made fast to a rope, which he hauled ashore; this secured our landing, which we could not otherwise have effected. We took a general view of the place, and found it to be a light sandy soil, which produces high grass and shrubs, with which the whole island is covered. About \ a mile inland there is a small drain of water issuing out of a rock, which, by estimation, might fill a butt in twelve hours, and this was the only spring of water we found ; we saw a small quadruped, of the size and shape of a goai^ spotted, and without horns." Aduibal D'Entbecasteuz made the island on the 29th of March, 1792, and the writer of his voyage gives the following account of it : — " The island appeared in the distance covered with thick clouds, above which rose the summits of the moun- tains. We were sufficiently near it, about four o'clock, to distmguish perfectly that these clouds were formed on the island, whence issued a smoke that almost entirely covered it, especially towards the north ; flames were seen in different points, and it was soon discovered that the forests were in a blasse : the traces of the fire and the smoke, which appeared successively in different places, exhibited the progress of the conflagration. We shaped our course so as to pass as near as possible to windward of the island ; the same species of birds that we had seen a few hours before we got sight of it were flying in great numbers around the rocks, which served them as a retreat. A great many seals were swimming in the midst of the large heaps of sea- weeds detached from the coast, the south side of which we ranged along, at the dis- tance of above \ a mile. This steep coast is very safe. The sea followed its direction, and would have apprised us of the danger of approaching it, had it been skirted by shoals. Bocks inclined about 50^ from north to south (and which I took to be composed of strata of free-stone) formed the mountains to the S.W., and exhibited great declivities as far as the sea-shore. Farther on to the south were seen horizontal strata of the same species of stone { thence issued a small rivulet, the waters of which fell into the sea, forming a cascade. Perpendicular surfaces of rock exhibited, on a large scale, those strange forms known under the denomination of Lusi. We observed a thin smoke issue in puffs from a small subterraneous aperture, at a little distance from the shore. The mountains slope towards the S.E., so that, in favour* able wMher, it would be easy to land on that side. We here saw some little rivulet^) which, after a meanderiinig^ eoarar^ mix their water* with those of the sea " ,ooQ IC L "L 514 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN, Dr. Kasll Schbbzbb, in the nan*ative of the Novara's voyage, says : — " The first view of Amsterdam island greatly resembles that of St. Paul. Our course was directed to its south-east side, along the acclivities of which pyramids of loose stones were visible, resembling those on St. Paul, but more numerous and of larger dimensions, the entire island seeming altogether on a much larger scale and more lofty. On the west side we observed rocky precipices of from 1000 to 2000 feet in height, fissured with deep dells and rents, whereas on the south and south-east sides these presented a more gradual slope. For above an hour we steered along the shore, which rose sheer out of the water, without being able to detect a single point at which it was possible to disembark so as to scramble up to the high ground. The entire eastern side is hemmed around with steep abrupt precipices of 150 to 200 feet high, not unlike skilfully constructed bastions, and clothed with long thick grass. As we drew near, we could plainly discern in the watercourses that descend upon the upper slope — ^radiating, as it were, &om all sides of the highest peak, which was enveloped in clouds — numerous streams of water, each pouring through a riH like a thread of silver; after which, precipitating itself over the steep precipices on the shore, it washed like a small torrent over terraces and banks of lava, till it was lost in the sea. If these streams are swollen by heavy rains in winter they may form waterfalls, as mentioned by early navigators, which must impart a far less pleasing character to the landscape. Two small patches of dazzling white, like fresh-fallen snow, which were visible high above the slope, we could not make out with the utmost power of our glasses. The green colom* which enveloped the entire island seemed to indicate the existence of grass vegetation resembling that of St. Paul. A nearer approach showed the south-eastern point, which at a distance presented the appearance of a low headland jutting out into the sea, to be a small detached rock ; while the shore (so far as the eye could reach) rose like a wall to a height of from 150 to 200 feet. After rowing some distance we found a smooth spot between two ree&, which pro- jected above the level of the sea like a breakwater, and at once let go the boat's anchor. At this spot we succeeded in effecting a landing, and afterwards with great difficulty climbed to the summit of the island." ST. PAUL ISLAND. - ST. VAUXi«-At about 40 miles almost due South (true) from Amsterdam island is the island of St. Paul, which is 820 feet high, and visible from a distance of 50 to 60 miles. It was surveyed in 1853 by Captain Dbnhau, R.N., who determined the position of the north side of the entrance to the crater to be Lat. 38^ 43f 4&' S., and Long. 77° 35' 4'' E.» Some care is required when approaching Amsterdam and St. Paul islands in winter, because of the strong ji^ales and thick weather that then prevail. The colour of the water affords no certain indications of their vicinity, and the sea-weed they produce is drifted to leeward in small patches by the prevailing north-easterly current. * Depending upon the acouraoy of the meridian distance from the Cape Observatorjr, ivhloh \» assumed to be in Long. 18° 28' 45" E.. the meridian distance was 59° 6' 69" E. This diflfers slightly ftrom a previous determination of Caftai;? Blackwood, K.N., in 1842, who asoertained the position of the Nine rin Boole, on the north side of the entrance to the crater, to be Lat. 88° 44' 40" S., and Long. 77° 37' 40" E. The Novara, in 1857, determined the position of a 4imaU pyramid of stones on a little eminence north of the huts of the colonists to be Lat. 88° 4 2' 55" S., Long. T7° 31' 16" E. This longitude was obtained by meridian distances from the Cape and Madras, the observatory at the fon»er pUce being es^mttted to be in Long. 18" 28' 45", and tliat *ttl,«i»tter80»li'a»<'E. Digitized by LaOOgle [INDIAN OCEAN] Water Boll Jb Cliang«L->_JI^O^_Spr.aMe 3£* jOavvjto A^tM^tir JPaAv0€ t4 70 1 ID Bzffe SZ8. ■ ^iik i ^peetng toe U V Digitized by Google * A frath rarrey^ of Port Loalf ii much neededt and wonld be % iprtai Adrantage to the oooti meroe of the island. ' Digitized by L^OOgle MAURITIUS. 520 retard their downward progrega or to restrain them until they have gathered volume and impetag enough to break over the precipice. The purity of the atmosphere, the intense blue of the cloudless sky, together with the gorgeous tint« of tropical verdure, render these mountains, both at their summits and their base, objects of peculiar beauty; the colouring on them, particularly at sunrise and sunset, being perfbcUy oharming; whilst the white buildings of the town, with their green verandahed and trellised windows, harmonise by contrast with the other parts of the pioture. The harbour is wide and expansive, and is well defended by a large battery at its mouth, and by another nearer the town, while the guns of the citadel command and enfilade the whole space around them. On the opposite side from the citadel, and to the right hand on entering the harbour, is seen a long regularly planted avenue of trees, which marks the approach to the cemetery of P^re la Chaise, a prettily arranged and careftdly tended indosure dedicated as a sanctuary of the Christian dead.* The public buildings of port Louis are quite without pretension, if we except the Boman Catholic cathedral. The government house, the official residence, which is the most conspicuous edifice on first landing, is a large, square-looking building, useful, commodious, but conspicuously ugly. The barracks are large and commo- dious, and occupy a commanding site at the extremity of the town. The streets, thongh wide, are not well drained ; the houses are close and badly ventilated, many inclosed in gardens surrounded by high stone walls, and, although they may be thus rendered more private and comfortable to the immediate inmates, they are never- theless injurious to the place, and completely spoil the uniformity and appearance of the streets. The aspect of the town is, however, pleasing, if viewed from the sea, although a closer acquaintance is not altogether gratifying. Of the scenery immediately surrounding port Louis, the most striking object is the Pouce mountain, taking its name from the singular resemblance of the finial piece of rock at its summit to the human thumb, and which stands 2847 feet above the level of the sea. The lower ascent of this mountam is by no means difficult ; it rises by an easy and gradual elevation from the site of the town. At the immediate top, and for some distance below it, it is, however, very precipitous and steep. On reaching this the view is very grand ; the whole island lies stretched out below you — ocean-girt on all sides save one, and this is where the yet steeper peaks of the moun- tains of the Bivi^re Noire district rise and impede the view of that part of the shore which stands behind them. Directly beneath lies the speckled plateau of white and green dwellings of port Louis, and further on the ships in the harbour. The summit of the mountain is a piece of rock not more than 8 feet square. On the opposite side of the town from the bazaar, and immediately above the barracks, rises a steep and conical hill called the Long mountain, 996 feet high, on the summit of which stands a signal-staff. This communicates with another on Port Louis mount, also a very commanding position. From these points, by means of a code of Marryat signals, the approach of all vessels to the island is telegraphed ; whilst timely notice is likewise given to the inhabitants on the approach of hurricanes or bad weather." Time Ball.— On April 19th, 1833, the following public notice was issued re- fipeeting the Tima Ball recently established at the Observatory ; " From the 25th of ^ ^ Digitized by L^OOgle 630 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN, April, 1833, a sigiial will be made from the Tower Obsenraiory on TuesdajB and Fridays, denoting the exact moment of Ih. mean time at Port Lonia. Fadng ihe harbour will be seen on the white ground of the Observatory, and about \ ficom the top, a large black sphere, which, by a communication firom the inside, will diaappear exactly at Ih. It will be necessary, therefore, for regulatmg chronometers, to observe, either with or without a telescope, the exact moment when the black M^haee disappears. To give the better notice, a white and blue flag will be h(Msted on the tower one hour before the time on the above-mentioned days, and will be lowered at about 12h. 55m. It being almost impossible invariably to avoid error, a white flag will be hoisted on the tower after the observation, provided by any chance an error has been oommitted." Direettons.— 'The following official instructions for vessels making port Louis were issued September 22nd, 1855, and bear the signatures of E. 0. Fbomx, B.E., Snrveyor-Oeneralf and Edwabd Kelly, Harbour Master, Port Louis :— " A vessel making the island from the eastward (or on the windward side) should give a bertii of 2^ miles to the reefs off Ambre island, and should be careful not to approach the revolving light on Flat island on a course northward of N.N.W. | W. until Gunner's quoin bears west, when a course may be shaped mid-channel to pass between Gunner's quoin and Flat island. '' Having passed westward of the Quoin, the fixed light on Canonnier point will become visible, and having brought the light on Flat island to bear EJN[.£. I N., the course may be changed to W.S.W. ^ S., to pass Canonnier point at the distance of about two miles. *' So soon as the fixed light on Canonnier point bean S.E. by S. the vessel may haul up S.W. by S. (with Tamarind mountain in sight a-head, if the night be dear), for the anchorage off port Louis, distant about 10 miles. But, having sailed 6f miles on this course to abreast of Tombeau bay, the light on Canonnier point will become red, at which time the lights on Canonnier point and Flat island will be in line. " The red light at the mouth of Grand river (Great River bay) will now be seen bearing 8.S.W., and if the night be clear the Corps de Gkrde mountain over it, which course of S.S.W. the vessel may now steer for about 3 miles, and when the ffveen light of Fort G^rge on Tonnelier island bears S.E. ^ S., the anchor may be dropped on the best anchoring ground outside of the harbour. By standing further towards the Grand Biver light to the southward the vessel will approach too near the reefs. '' It is, however, generally advisable for the vessel passing Canonnier point to lie to, but making sail occasionally for the purpose of preserving her position, so as to gain the anchorage at daylight, in preference to attempting it at night, by which, in but few cases, has time been saved. Considerable risk, as well as the necessity for anchoring outside, will thus be avoided. After passing Canonnier point, too much caution cannot be taken to prevent the vessel being set within the red range of that light beforo she has run the distance of 6| miles." The following further directions for aj^roachmg port Louis are by Ms. D. Wales, Harbour Master, and were published September 23rd, 1858 ^— " It is by no means generally known that the tides along the edge of the reef and between the islands northward of Mauritius run at times with a velocity of from 6 to 6 miles on the springs. They are equally strong off the Mome and along the Digitized by CjOOQIC MAUfilTIUS. 631 southem ootst ; their direction i« from 6.E. to N.W., the flood ramuDg to the S.E., and the ebb to the N.W., raryiag a point or two according to the wind. ''Wherever the reefs extend to a distance from the laud, the lead, if carefully attended to, will be a tolerably safe guide in the night ; but should the lead be over- hove when standing towards the shore, haul off immediately whilst preparing for a fresh east, or yon may run your ship agroimd« From 14 to 20 fathoms is generally a safe distance from tiie reef, but the soundings vary considerably. Of all the vessels that have been run on shore or lost on the coast of Mauritius during the last few years, it is not too much to say that the neglect of the lead was without exception the principal cause. The strength of the currents had also something to do with these accidents, but the neglect of the lead was the most important £Bct elicited in each inquiry. " Where there is no coast reef marked on the chart, the shore is generally bold, having deep water to within a cable's length of it. " Vessels arriving from the eastward and south-eastward, should be careful not to bring the light on Flat island to the northward of N.N.W. i W. until Gunner's quoin bears west, when they may pass midway between it and Flat island. This course will lead about ^ miles clear of the reefs that extend from the north-east end of Mauritius. " On passing Gabriel isUmd, be oareM to give a good berth to a reef that extends about half a mile to the S.S.E. of it; this warning applies more particularly to Cooly ships, which having to be visited by the Surgeon Superintendent at the Lazaret at Flat island, frequently pass much too close to tiiis reef without being aware of its existence, as in very fine weather the sea does not always break on its extreme point. "When westward of the Quoin, Oanohnier point light will be seen. Steer with Flat island light astern bearing N.E. by E. i E. until the Canonnier point light bears S.E. by S. (which will carry you dear of the dangerous reef that extends from the point) ; you may then haul up S.W. by S. till the red light at Grand river is seen, bring it to bear S.S.W,, and steer for it on that course until the green light on Tonnelier island bears S.E., when, being over the best ground, you may anchor in from 12 to 16 fathoms. A nearer approach to the red light at Grrand river would bring a vessel too near the reefs to the south-westward of the entrance of the harbour. " Should the night be clear when running down the coast, the western shoulder of the Corps de Garde mountain will be seen in line with the Grand river red light when the latter bears S.S.W. '' Bemember especially that after passing Canonnier point on your way to the Bell buoy, the Canonnier point light changes from white to red if it be brought to bear more northerly than N.E. | £. This change will warn you that the vessel is too near the reefs that skirt the coast between Canonnier pomt and point Pimeni ** But this change from white to red is only intended as a guide as far as point Piment, after passing which the red light at Grand river will be the mark to the anchorage. It is not well, however, for a large vessel ever to approach so near the reef as to change the Canonnier point light from white to red. The great object in view in thus arranging the light was the convenience of the numerous coasting vessels belonging to the colony, to whom (knowing the ground as they do) it is meet useful. The best mark for keeping clear of the reefii 'between Canonnier point V X 2 532 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. and point Piment, by night, is to keep the Fiat island light open westward of Canonnier point light, nntil the red light at Grand river is seen. " Should yon be approaching the Canonnier point light from the westward when it shows white, and steering directly for it, there can be no change of colour ; but by attending to the bearing of Flat Island light it will be impossible for you to run on the reef. The barque Cormoall, of 947 tons, steering E.N.E. for Canonnier point light, was wrecked on the reef within three-quarters of a mile of the lighthouse, because it was erroneously supposed that the light changed colour on approaching it whenever a vessel was southward of it ; whereas it is only when it is brought to bear N.E. ^ E., and northward of that, that the light changes colour. ** When running for the anchorage by day, after passing Canonnier point with Flat island lighthouse bearing N.E. by E. ^ E., bring Tamarind mountain (a conical hill westward of all the other high land) to bear S.W. by S., and ateer for it until the Martello tower on the south side of the mouth of Ghrand river is seen in a line with the western shoulder of the Corps de Garde mountain, bearing S.S.W. This will lead clear of all danger to the anchorage, which is indicated by a floating beacon painted red and white, generally called the Bell buoy, which lies in 12 fathoms on the north side of the mouth of the harbour. Anchor northward of this beacon in from 12 to 20 fathoms. " When approaching by night from the south-westward, Flat island light bearing N.E. by E. will lead between two and three miles to the westward of the reels southward of the port, and when the green light on Tonnelier island bears E.S.E^ steer for it if the wind be favourable under easy sail. If the night be clear the shipping at the Bell buoy will be seen and afford a good mai*k. Keep the lead going, and bring the two harbour lights to bear as already described, and anchor. " During the day, the Gunner's quoini bearing N.E. | E. is the beat mark.. " It is most unadvisable to attempt anchoring at the Bell buoy after dark, unless well acquainted with the localities ; it is far better, with the admirable advantages afforded by the lights for ascertaining a vessel's exact position, to keep under way till daylight ; considerable risk will thus be avoided, and as no communication with the shore is permitted till vessels have received pratique, no time is gained by anchoring in the night." It has been remarked by a shipmaster, that the reefs in the vicinity of the harbour of Port Louis generally show themselves by discoloured water, and that a good look-out should at all times be kept for them. A stranger should not attempt to enter the harbour without a pilot, especially as one can usually be obtained at from two to four miles from the entrance. The wind most frequently blows out of the harbour, and renders it necessary for vessels to warp in. From October to February (when the winds are inclined to vary, and sometimes blow from North and N.W.) the current is liable to run eastward along the north side of the island; at such times vessels may approach Port Louis with facility by ooming round the west side of the island. This is the best season for ships crossing from Madsgasoar to Beunion and Mauritius. PoBT Begttlationb asd Sigkals.— The following official notice was issued from the Harbour Master's Office at port Louis, November dO, 1860 : — "1. All vessels above 100 tons burthen shall take a pilot, and receive the assistance that may be sent them from the port office. "2. All British vessels under 100 tons rnskj be allowed to warp in by their MAURITIUS. 533 own means, but they must be moored in the berth pointed out by the harbour- master. "3. Yesaels of every description are to be moored with two bower anchors forward, and from 1st December to 30th April two also astern, with buoys and good buoy-ropes on them; during the other months, one bower anchor astern will be deemed sufficient. Captains and owners shall be obliged at all times to take any additional precautions for the safety of their vessels that the harbour-master may think proper. Pilots, when mooring vessels, must be careful not to overlay other ships' anchors ; if possible, to avoid it. " 4. Pilots are not to bring any vessel above the forts until the powder has been taken out ; and if time will not permit of its being landed, it must be put into a boat and moored outside the harbour ; the powder to be well covered with tarpaulins or sails, and a man left in the boat to guard it ; this man is not to be permitted to smoke, or have any fire in the boat. During the time he has the powder in charge, a red flag is to be hoisted on a staff, and kept flying in the bow of the boat. " 5. As soon as a vessel is moored and secured in the berth (or before if necessary), the flying and standing jib-booms, and also the studdmg-sail booms on the yards, are to be run in, and no spars serving as guess- warp-booms can be allowed while in the harbour. Captains and officers not Tsomplying with this regulation must be an- swerable for any accident which may happen by other vessels hauling in or out, sailing in or out, or towing in or out by the steamer, changing their berths, or by small craft boarding them, or by any other means whatever. " 6. From the 1st day of December to the 30th day of April, all ships and vessels moored in the harbour are to keep their topgallant-yards and masts struck and on deck, that they may be in constant readiness to strike their yards and topmasts on the first order from the harbour-master. " 7. It is expressly forbidden to throw dirt or ballast from vessels in the harbour^ A boat will be sent round once a week, or oftener if necessary, to receive the dirt from vessels and carry it away. " 8. When vessels are laid up, the owners are to provide a^competeut person to take care of them, in default of which one will be provided by the harbour^master at the expense of the said owners. *' 9. Coasting vessels cannot be allowed to remain in harbour during the night, without two men at least, as a guard, on board of them< ** 10. All captains and officers of vessels moored in the harbour shall be obliged to receive the tow-ropes from any vessel whidi may be warping in or out, as ordered by the pilot in charge. "11. Vessels at anchor, or moored in the harbour, are not to scale their guns or fire salutes without leave from the harbour-masten " 12. No vessel is to be smoked for the destruction of rats without having first acquainted the harbour-master, and obtained permission for that purpose. " 13. In the event of an alarm of fire in the harbour or ou shore, each vessel shall be obliged to send her buckets, axes, maules, and whatever she may have ou board which may be useful in such cases, and also as many men to assist as can be spared. " 14, Vessels requiring hay for the purposes of their voyage cannot be allowed to remain the night at anchor, or on the warps in the harbour, after the hay is on board ; 634 ISLANDS IN THE INDUN OCEAN. and should they not be ready to proceed immediately to sea, they must run out and anchor at the Bell buoy, to wait until they are. *' 16. Neither hay nor cotton can be idlowed to remain on the wharf during the day, unless under a special guard ; nor can such be suffered, under any circumstances, to remain on the wharf during the night. " 16. Yesseb embarking gunpowder must in like manner proceed to sea imme- diately, or wait outside the harbour untU they are ready. ** 17. Boats are not allowed to be hauled up or landed on the government wharfs or ways without leave from the harbour-master. ** 18. No vessel can be swung preparatory to going to sea until the clearance from the Custom House is produced at the Port Office. ** 19. Notice of the departure of vessels shall be given in writing by their respec* tive commanders at the Custom House and Port Office, 48 hours previous to sailing, and a flag shall be hoisted at the maintop-galUnt-masthead from the time such notice is given until their departure. English ships to hoist the Jack, and foreigners the small flag of their country. '' 20. Vessels that are swung will be allowed to remain 34 hours on the warps be- longing to the port, but no longer ; if they do not proceed to sea at the expiration of that time, they will have to pay for the use of each of the four warps by which the vessel is secured, the daily charges fixed by the Port Tariff until her final departure. Vessels under 100 tons which are allowed to make use of their own means in swinging, will be charged 20 shillings per day for the time they remain swung above the 24 hours, as allowed to other vessels. " 21. Captains and officers of merchant vessels of all nations are strictly prohibited from hoisting at either mast-head oi their respective ships any pendant or anything that can be construed into a pendant, while they remain in this harbour. "22. From the Ist of December till the 30th of April of each year, all vessds, whether English or foreign, arriving in the harbour of port Louis, shall be authorised to enter and anchor in the harbour, as far up as the line which, during this season is destined to form the north-east boundary of the roadstead of port Louis i ships and vessels thus arriving and anchoring thus high, shall not be liable to any entries, fees, or formalities exigible by the Custom House or Port Office, other than they were formerly subject to, when they could only anchor at the Flag or Bell buoyi " 23. The boundary referred to by the foregoing article, shall be marked out by two flagstaffs erected upon the beach> one on either side of the harbour, indicating a line from the inner point of Isle Tonnelier to the inner point of Fort Blanc, and each of them bearing a yellow flag blazoned with the Boyal initials, surmounted by a Crown. " 24. With reference to Art. 9 of Ordinance No. 38 of 1844, a red flag with a swallow tail, will be used to indicate that a vessel arriving has been permitted to communicate with the shore. *' 25. In case any ship or other vessel be sunk, stranded, or run on shore in any part of the harbour, port, or roadstead, the owner or owners, or some other person having or pretending to have any property therein, or the commander thereof, shall clear the said port, harbcturj or roadstead of sudi ship or vessel and of all wrecks and parts of the same within the time appointed, in a notice under the hand of the harbour-master requiring them so to do, and in default by such owner or ownen, or other persons aforesaid, to obey such orders, such ship or vesee). ip]q^f>9B|^P*t MAUEITIUS. 535 of the same^ shall be removed in such manner as the harbour-master shall order and direct, and the expenses of removing snch ship or vessel, wrecks and part of the same, shall be chargeable to and against the owner or owners of snch ship or vessel, or other person aforesaid, independently of the fine and penalties prescribed by the Art 42 of Ord. No. 38 of the present year. '^ BAD-WEATHSB SIGNALS: — "The folbwing Signab will be made from the Flag-staff at the Port OMce, and repeated at the Flag-staff of Fort G^rge, on the approach of bad feather. " SignaU to Ships and Vessels in the Harbour, "A White Flag, with Horizontal Blue Stripes :—^end down top-gallant yards and masts, and prepare for bad weather. ** The Masters of all Ships and Vessels in this Fort are reqoiied immediately to repair on board their reiipective Vessels. ** A White Flag with a Bine Cross : — Strike lower yards and topmasts. ** N.B.— This Signal shall be confirmed by a gnn at Fort George. " Signals to Vessels at anchor cft the BelUhuoy, and repeated at the Flag-staff of Ihrt George. ** Bed Pendant over a White Flag with Horizontal Bine Stripes : — ^To indicate the appearance of bad weather or of a hnrricane. "Bed Pendant over a White Flag with a Bine Cross :<— To indicate that the gale or hnrricane has begun. ''Ball over a White Flag with a Bine Cross:— Shall announce to all vessels outside the harbour that the danger of remaining at anchor has become great, and that their safety requires them to put to sea. " N.B. — ^This signal shall be confirmed by a gun at Fort George. " The several ships and vessels are required to answer the above signals by hoisting the Jack of their nation at the main. " Ships at the Bell buoy can communicate with the Fort Office by Mabbtat's signals; the same to be kept flying till answered by the pendant at the Fort Flag- staff. " N.Bi — ^The Captain of the Port desires to impress upon the minds of the masters of vessels arriving at this port during the hurricane season, the necessity of prompt obedience to the above signals. " Ail infractions against the Begulations of the Port shall be punished by fine, which shall not he less than 51,, nor more than 90L sterling, and by an imprisonment of from eight days to three months, accumulatively or separately." Oaaoimier Foint, 4be. — ^At about 9^ 'miles northward from port Louis is Canonnier point, to which such frequent reference has been rdaAe in the instructions for making the port. At ^ miles from the harbour is Tombeau bay, in which there is probably a depth shoaling from 18 fathoms at the entrance to 2 fathoms close to the shore ; and at IJ mile northward from this is Tdrtle bay, which receives the waters o^ the river Pomplemouases, a stream running about 8 miles into the interior. Hence to Canonnier point the coast trends north-eastward, and at about mklway there is a projecting point, named Bocky point. Digitized by LjOOQIC 636 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. CaDODDier point is low and sandy, and has a battery upon it. The point will he easily recognised by its lighthouse, which stands at the extremity of the headland, in Lat. 20P (y 36" S., and Long. 57° 35' 24" E., and shows ^ fixed, Hght at 38 feet above the sea, visible 10 miles. This building bears S.W. \ W., nearly 9 miles from the lighthouse on Flat island, and one of the objects of its erection is to indicate the position of a dangerous reef which extends off shore If miles from the point, and to warn vessels from approaching too near the coral reefs north-eastward and south- westward of the point. When seen from the southward on any hearing northfottrd ofN,E,\iE, the light will appear red, and thereby give warning to seamen (when within 6 miles of j)he light) that they are too near the shore.* On the east side of Canonnier point there is a shallow bay named Great bay, and at nearly 3 miles further eastward is Cape Malheureux, the north point of Mauritius. At 2i miles N. by E. i E. from Cape Malheureux is the islet Gimner's quoin. Ounner's Quoin. — ^The Gunner's quoin is an island about a mile long in a W. by N. and E. by S. direction, the highest part of which, the north-western point, is steep and 515 feet above the sea; thence it slopes gradually towards the south- east, where it is terminated by three dangerous rocks named the Carpenters. There are also several dangerous rocks on its north and north-east sides, distant from it about i o£& mile. Between the Gunner's quoin and Mauritius there is a good channel of 16 to 37 fathoms water, through which vessels may pass with care. It is necessary to give the mainland a good berth, as there are several shoals off it. The deepest water is at about half a mile from the Quoin, where will be found from 20 to 30 fathoms. It is said that good anchorage may be obtained at about a mile from the shore of Mauritius. Flat Island. — At 4 miles north-eastward from Gunner's quoin is Flat island, an island of about a mile in extent, the shores of which are rooky, and, with the excep- tion of the south-west side, bordered by sunken rocks. Its south-western extremity is steep and rugged ; the remainder of its surface is fiat and comparatively smooth. At its south-east end there is a small islet, named Gabriel island, which is separated from it by a narrow channel, too shallow to be navigable. At i of a mile N.N.E. from Flat island there is an isolated rock 172 feet high, named Pigeon house. The channel between probably has a depth of 2 to 3^ fathoms ; but it is very unsafe, and never used by vessels. The lighthouse on Flat island stands on the south-west angle, the highest land of the island, in Lat. 19^ 53' 26", and Long. 67^41' 12", and shows a light revolving in one minute, during which period it appears bright for 20 seconds. It is 365 feet above the sea, and visible from the deck of an ordinary vessel at the distance of 25 miles. In addition to the lighthouse there is a telegraph station on the island, and also a flagstaff. In Palisade bay, at the western side of Flat island, small vessels occasionally anchor in about 10 fathoms, and obtain shelter from easterly winds. And vessels may also anchor on the south-west side of Gabriel island in a similar depth, but great care is necessary to avoid a dangerous sunken reef extending from the south end of the island to a distance probably of half a mile. * CoLOiiBt Lloyd, Snrreyor-General of the ialand, says, " The breakers on the north-wert ooMt of Manritiiu oan generally be heard ttom the distance of a miles, and should not be approached nearer than the depth of 1 6 fathoms.** . ^ ^ ^ ■ ^ Digitized by VjOOQ Lc MAUEITIUS. 687 The chanuel between Flat island and Gunner's quoin is the channel generally used by vessels bound to port Louis from the north-eastward. It is quite safe, but it is necessary to guard against the sunken reef off the south end of Gabriel island and the rocks off the north-east side of Ghinner's quoin. Bound Xalaad. — ^This isknd is situate Hi miles E.N.E. i E. from the Gunner's quoin; 13| miles E.N.E. i E. from eape Malheureux; and 7 miles E. i N. froni Flat island. Its position is estimated to be Lat. 19"^ 5(y 34", and Long. 67'' 47' 66'^ It is about three-quarters of a mile in extent, 1049 feet high, and has soundings on its western side of from 4 to 25 fiithoms, the latter being at about a mile off. It may be passed on the east side, and also on the south side at the distance of a mile. In the event of a calm, anchorage may be obtained in 16 fathoms at half a mile from the shore, with the island bearing S.W., and the reef of Serpent island North distant three-quarters of a mile.* In clear weather the island may be seen from a distance of 2a to 30 miles. Yessels sometimes pass between Bound island and Flat island, but should not approach the latter nor the Pigeon House rock within the distance of a mile. Serpent Xeland. — Serpent island is a large rock of whitish colour, situate north- eastward from Round island 1^ miles. A reef extends from its east side about i of a mile, reudeiiog a near approach unadvisable ; indeed, it is said that vessels should give the north and east sides of the island a berth of at least one mile. In the channel separating Serpent island from Bound island there is probably a depth of 23 fathoms, but it is not advisable to attempt this passage at the risk of being becalmed, and also on account of two dangerous reefs, one of which is 1| miles westward of Serpent island, and the other half a mile N.W. of Bound island ; the latter breaks only when the sea runs high. If obliged to run through this channel, pass midway between the reefs, or at about j of a mile southward from that of Serpent island, which is always visible by its breakers. Cvrrenta* Ae. — The flood runs between the islands just described (Gunner's quoin. Serpent island, &c.) N.E. and the ebb S.W. The stream is very rapid, averaging from 3 to 4 miles an hour, which must be allowed for ; during the S.E. Monsoon in June, July, and August, the stream sometimes runs 6 miles with the flood, and the ebb occasions an equally heavy race between the Gutiner's quoin and the north end of Mauritius. It may be remarked here that, as a rule, a vessel making Mauritius in the evening, and in hazy weather, should not run between the islands in the night; but in clear weather, as they are visible at a great distance, she may pass in safety between Flat island and Gunner's quoin. M. D'Apb^s ds Mannetillbtts says, "Great care is requisite when ap- proaching the north-east end of Mauritius, because dangerous reefs project from several places nearly a league into the sea. Bound island appears like a haycock, and can be seen from a distance of about 30 miles in clear weather, and is visible, when viewed from the north-eastward, sooner than Mauritius, especially in cloudy weather, or when the horizon is hazy. If a ship pass outside all the islands, with the wind far to the southward, she will have to work in after- wards ; it is therefore proper to work in southward of Bound island, keeping at * It has been stated that the choimel between Boond island and Serpent island is unsafe, there being muneioas reefii aboatj althoogb in other respects it is saffldently deep forjarae vessels. Digitized by VjOOQ Ic 538 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. more than half a leagae fiom it» to g^ve a berth to the reef projeeting from its west side. " If a ship, in passing through the channel among the islands, experience a calm, she ooght to anchor with a stream or kedge, in 16 or 20 fathoms grayel or coral, which is the common groimd here ; this will prevent her being driven by cnnents on the reefs joining Flat Island, or being carried between it and Boond island, where S) several shoals, particolarly a ledge extending neariy 3 miles to the north-westward m Bonnd island. This ledge, which has no breakers on it bnt when the sea nms high, renders this channel narrow and dangerous ; a ship may, notwithstanding, pass through it without accident, bnt if she fiill to leeward of Bonnd island, it is safest to pass outside of Flat island also, keeping about 1} miles from it, then steer for the west end of Gunner's quoin and Canonnier point." naeq Baj. — From cape Malheureux, the north point of Mauritius, the coast trends to the south-eastward, and for about 12 miles is fronted by extensive and dan- gerous banks, upon which are seated some irregularly-shaped coral islands, named Ambre ; it then trends round to the southward 7 miles to Flaoq bay, where is one of the oldest settlements on the island, and the district is one of the best cultivated ; it was originally settled by the Dutch. Here is a military station. The sugar from Flacq is conveyed to port Louis by ckasse^maries or ffoulettes, large lugger-boats decked over, and able to hold a great number of bags stowed below. A passage which exists between the reefs and the shore at the mouth of the river enables them to run in close to the coast, and take their cargoes on board with very little trouble. At 8^ miles southward from Flacq bay is the outlet of Great river, or Bividre Sud-Est, where is also a military station.* Adjacent to this river lie the Deer islands, and another rocky islet called Boche island ; these are small coral islands formed as the surrounding reefs, but separated and detached from them. On the south side of the river rise the first abutments of the Bamboo range of mountains, the highest peak of which is estimated to be 2042 feet above the sea. 90mT.— -Succeeding the outlet of €hreat river or, as it is termed by the colonists, Bivi^e Sud-Est, is the large bay forming Grand port, which is the only harbour on the east side of the island. It is at Grand port that the town of Mahebourg is situate, which is a small town of but little commercial importance. AU this part of the coast is fronted by reefs, and the approach to Mahebourg is ren- dered difficult to strangers by the windings of the three channels by which it is approached ; the assistance of a pilot is therefore essential at all times. Grand port is but little frequented, as it is on the windward side of the island, and the trade-wind genanlly blows into it, which increases the difficulty of leaving it. On the days of full and change of the moon there are breezes at times from the land, which permit a vessel to get out of the harbour. The reefs forming the chaxmeb generally show themselves by the colour of the water ; when within, there is usually a smooth sea, the reefs forming an excellent natural breakwater. * The shore In the vicinity of Great rirer is covered with large stones, the surfaces of which are pierced with numeroos droalar holes aboot a foot or fifteen inches in diameter, and nearly to the same depth; these are also foond on the land in the interior of the island, and appear as though the boOing matter of whieh they were irst JiBrmed had saddcnly ceoled and left Urge bubbles of air burst on its surface.— Flemtno's Mauritius, Digitized by LjOOQ IC MAURITIUS. 530 . lighthouse has reeently been erected on Isle aux Fonquets, on the edge of the reefj at half a mile north of the southern entrance of Grand port. The tower from base to vane is 84 feet high, and as well as the bnildings adjacent to it, is colonred white; it marks the sonthem entrance to Grand port, and stands at about 4^ cables' length E.N.E. from Isle Passe, and 3 miles from the coast of Mauritius ; its position is Lat. 20P 24' W S. ; Long. 57^ 46' 9" E. The light,;^^^!, is 108 feet aboye the sea, and visible from a distance of 16 miles. Btraettoiis. — ^In reference to the light on Isle aux Eouquets, the following in« fltructions were officially issued in 1863. The magnetic variation allowed was 9° 25' W. "A Gpvemment pilot in a few months will be stationed at the newly erected light* house, and will board vessels bound to Grand port on their making the usual signals. Vessels bound to Grand port may approach the light, when bearing from N. by E. round by north to W. by S. ; and when about 2 miles from it should heave-to for the pilot, with the vessel's head off-shore. " Should it be desired to get shelter, approach the light under easy sail till at about three-quarters of a mile from it, avoidmg the shoal patch of 6 fathoms water off Laverdie point, the extreme of the coral reef bounding the south side of enti-ance to Grand port ; then steer so as to round Isle Passe at the distance of half a mile, as a spit runs out from its south side for about a cable's length ; when haul to the north- ward and anchor in 18 to 20 &thoms. It is not recommended to attempt to enter without a pUot^ except in cases of extreme necessity. '' A vessel from the southward bound to port Louis, round the north end of tho island of Mauritius (the usual track), should, after sighting Grand port light, steer so as to pass it at a distance of 4 miles ; when at that distance, with the light bearing W. by S., a N.N.E, i £. course for 9 miles, if the weather be clear, will bring a vessel in sight of Flat island revolving light, bearing about N. by W. ^ W. ; the course can then be shaped as required. '* A vessel from the northward having Flat island light on a N.N.W. bearing, should be careful afler sighting Grand port light, not to bring it, when at a distance of less than 8 milee, on a more southerly bearing than S.W. by W. i W., or she will be too near the coast reef northward of the light. " The coast reef bounding Grand port is bordered by a bank of irregular soundings extending some distance seaward i the lead, if carefully attended to, will prove a tolerable guide in thick weather. "Vessels bound into Grand port should not approach it at night, but should heave-to well southward of the light, as the drift is to the northward, and much time will be lost in working back. Isle Passe, on the north side of the entrance, is easily known by the battery and other buildings on it. At times the rollers block the channel, although the depth is from 14 to 22 fathoms ; and generally the reefs on either side are perfectly visible from aloft. The rise of tide is 3 feet." , The following additional instructions by the late Colonel Lloyp, C.E., Surveyor-G^eral of the island, dated 1849, may still bo of service : — '* North Entrance. — A vessel intending to enter Grand port, or Mahebourg, by the northern entrance, must keep Bamboo peak bearing West by compass until Rocky island is made, which is surmounted by a beacon visible at 5 miles' distance. This rock is situate at the extremity of the reef, and forms the northern arm of this entrance to Grand port; it should be passed i of a mile td the southward. A 54/0 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. S.W. i W. course must iihen be steered about 2 miles, when oa the port bow a remarkable isolated breaker, named th« Diamond, will be visible opposite anoUier entrance to Grand Port, called Danish Channel. Having brought this breaker to bear S.S.W. | of a mile, steer W, ^ S. about one mile, when a bluff hill will be seen on the port bow, stretching to seaward, surmounted by a curious black rock, and at the foot of its leeward extremity there is a battery. This is called the Devil's point, and so soon as the black rock bears W.S.W. distant one mile, steer S.W. by S. i S. for about 1^ miles, passing the Devil's point ) of a mile from the battery, and bring up in 9 or 10 fathoms, sand and gravel, the Devil's point bearing N.W. i W., and Bamboo peak N.W. f N. " When passing the Devil's point take care to keep closer to the reef on the port- hand than to the land, as there are two large banks i of a mile from the shore, with only 2 or 3 fathoms water over them. " By following the above directions, and not approaching the reefs on either side of the channel within less than j^ of a mile, a vessel may be taken to the above safe anchorage without risk. " It would not be advisable to attempt going any further towards Mahebourg without being well acquainted with the intricate channels and shoals, or without having a colonial pilot on board. " Eastern, or Isle Pcuse Entrance, — The eastern entrance to port Royal is less intricate than the above, in preference to which it is recommended. It is situate about 9 miles S.W. by S. of the northern entrance, and can be easily made out by the Isle Passe rock, which forms the northern arm of its entrance, as well as by a remarkable bluff mountain, 1583 feet high, inshore immediately opposite, named the Lion's Head, which, in making the paas, must be kept on a N.N.E. f E. bearing. " The Isle Passe will be easily recognised ; it is the southernmost of several smiill rocks or islands bordering the reef, and is covered with houses, fortifications, &c., — there is also a flagstaff near its centre. " When entering the channel keep the Lion's Head bearing N.N.E. i E. as above, until the centre of the Isle Passe bears E. by N. distant \ mile \ then steer for the rock of the Devil's point, which will beitr E.N.E.,and after running f of a mile bring up in about 13 fathoms, sand and gravel, the Isle Passe bearing south, and the Lion's Head S.W. \ W. It is not advisable to go further without a pilot. " Danish Passage, — ^Tho Danish passage, already mentioned, bearing W.N.W. i W. from Bamboo peak, cannot be recommended on account of the small depth of water at its mouth (3 fathoms), which occasions a heavy cross sea, sometimes breaking from point to point. If, however, this entrance be attempted, when off the mouth of the channel keep as close as possible to the northern point, in order to avoid a large coral bank in the centre of the pass, on which there are only 2^ fathoms ; steer ^ of a point to the southward of Bamboo peak for about a mile, when the Diamond rock will be right ahead ; pass it on either side at a cable's length, and as» Bamboo peak is brought to bear W.N.W. J W., steer W* i S. to make the Devils point, and follow the directions given above for the northern entrance to pass that point to the anchorage." Sontb snore of Mamitiiu. — From Grand port the coast trends W. by S., and forms the south shore of Mauritius, in which there are no harboura, it being rendered almost inaccessible by the coral reef which bordcra almost the whole of it, the only exceptions being the immediate channels EODEIGUES. 541 bars all approach to the shore save for vessels of small tonnage and a shallow draught of water ; bat many of these, called chasse-mar6es, trade round the coast of this district for the transport of sugar to port Louis^at one port between cape Brabant and Le Cap the reef rises to an elevation of fifteen feet above the Water. At 6^ miles eastward of point Brabant is the river Citron, where vessels of 200 tons have been built, the wood being here plentiful, whilst the rivers on the south coaist of the island being generally navigable at their months, render this particular district a favourite resort for those engaged in this occupation. Between the river Citron and cape Brabant the charts represent a little inlet, named Cape bay, which is merely the outlet of a stream known as the Cape river ; the depth at the entrance to this bay is probably 8 fathoms. Fort Savanna, a similar bay, is in Long. 67^ 30^, and nearly midway between Grand port and cape Brabant. RODBIGUES. General Remarks. — ^This is an irregularly-shaped island of considerable altitude, which can probably be seen iVom a distance of 30 to 40 miles in clear weather. It is about 18 miles long from east to west, and 6| miles across in its broadest part. It possesses two harbours of sufficient depth to admit vessels, of which that on its north-eastern side bears the name of Mathurin bay, and that on the south side. Sea Turtle Pen; the latter is seldom frequented, being considered too intricate for strangers. Beefs extend around the island, and have their outer edge at least 5 miles from it, in some places probably as much as 7 miles, excepting at its north* eastern part, where it is believed that they do not run off more than half a mile, a statement having been made that there is a depth of 25 to 17 fathoms at that dis* tance from this side of the island. The position of the centre of the island is esti« mated to be Lat. 19° 41' S., and Long. 63° 25' E. Rodrigues has not been surveyed, and we are chiefly indebted to the old chart of M. D'ApBis for the foregoing details. Statements have been made that the reefs surrounding the island extend many miles from it, but it is generally believed that 7 miles is their utmost limit.* "Wlieu approaching the north-east side of the island no bottom can be obtained at the distance of 3 miles from it ; thence it decreases in * Mb. D. Wal-es, Harbour-master at port Loals, Mauritiiu, in some remarks addressed to the Editor of the *' Naotlcal Magazine,** which were pablished at Mauritius in 1860, is of opinion that the reef extends southward of Bodrigues about 13 miles, an opinion he arrived at during the evidence given by the master, officers, and crew of the Xusser Sultan, before the Marine Court of Inquiry into the oause of the loss of that vessel ; and also firom a bird's-eye view of the dangers on the north, west, and south sides of the island, which he obtained from one of the highest of its mountain peaks. He says : ** Although I don*t pretend to state with accuraqf the distance of the extreme broken water southward from the nearest shore, yet I can safely assert that it appeared to me to be nearly double the distance from the land, as compared with the reef to the northward olTFalm Tree point. Now, the reef oflT Falm Tree point is laid down in M. D'Apres' chart as extending 6^ miles firom the nearest shore, which is known to be nearly correct, from which I infer that if the reef to the northward is 6 miles ft^m the land, that on the south side is nearly double that distauce." And this opinion he retains, notwithstanding the triangulatlon of Sib J. Marshall, of H Jf.S. Isla, which would tend to prove that the distance is not more than 6 miles. The Marine Court of Inquiry, alluded to in the preceding paragraph, advised ship-masters to give Rodrigues a wide berth at night, as they could not regard it otherwise than very dangerous land to approach at any time, and especially when there is cause for doubting the accuracy of the vessers position. They considered it quite unnecessary to follow the usual custom of sighting it when bound to Mauritius for the purpose of verifying chronometers, believing it to be far better to get into the parallel of Bound island, and thence steer directly for it, particularly as the coast night or day with more safety and less risk by vesBels oomhig from the euivta^^v ^^\^ 542 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. depth from 45 to 17 fathoms, the latter being, as already mentioned, at half a mile from the shore— farther westward the soundings are more gradual. But few TesseLs frequent the island, there being no indnoement beyond getting a supply of fiesh water. MtttUvrlii a»7«-«The ibUowing instmotions for Mathurin bay, by Likutbsaxt Gbubb, of the Bombay Marine, were written many years since (in 1810), and are still the only information we possess of the harbour. It is, periiaps, soarody neoessary to add that as they are not modem, they should be followed with the care whioh a shipmaster should always exercise when gnided by uncertain in* formation. ^ The road or harbour is called Mathurin bay, and near the middle of the island and south from the roadstead, there is a remarkable peak whioh answers as a guide. Vessels may stand in shore to 18 or 16 fathoms, but the bottom in general conasts of coral rooks, though in some spots of sand and mud. There is a small level spot of land between two hills, with some bouses, where a resident and some soldiers were usually stationed. An extensive shoal, known as the Middle ground, fronts the harbour, on some parts of whioh there are 3, 2, and 1^ fathoms, with gaps of 6, 7» or 8 fathoms between the shoal patches. The harbour is in general good holding ground, the bottom being a mixture of sand and mud. The tide rises about six feet, and it is high water on the days of full and change of the moon at Ih. 45m.; the flood runs to the eastward and the ebb to the westward at the rate of about 2 miles per hour. " There are two channels for entering or leaving the harbour ; the eastern one being only about 250 yards in breadth, renders it very intricate for large ships. The western or leeward channel is free from danger, being about ^ of a mile in breadth, and is formed by a small shoal of 2} fathoms on the edge of the Middle ground, and a rocky patch of 3i fathoms to the westward ; this channel, bemg far to leeward, should only be used by vessels going out of the harbour. There is another channel over the Middle ground, of the same breadth, which was used for bringing in ships previous to the survey of the harbour; but this was often attended with danger from violent gasts of wind from the valleys, rendering a ship liable to miss stays when near the reef, where she might be on the rocks before the anchor could bring her up. Ships, therefore, should always go in by the eastern and out by the western channel. " Eattem Cia^M^Z.— If a ship have occasion to touch here she must go in by the Eastern channel, and after having made the east or north-east part of the island, may stand in within 1^ miles of the reef, and coast along it at this distance until Booby island is seen, which bring to bear W. | S.,* and steer towards it with this bearing, keeping a good look-out for the peak, which will bear about S.S.W. \ W. when first seen. Steer for Booby island till the peak bears S. by W. | W., or about two ships' length open eastward of the White rock (a rock close to the shore, whitened to make it conspicuous), then Diamond isUnd will be just touching Diamond point, and the vessel will be at the entrance of the channel with the peak S. by W. I W. ; Booby island W. | S. ; and Diamond isknd touching, or a litUe on with Diamond point,— steer in W. by S. \ S. until the peak and White rock are in one (observing not to open Diamond island with the point); then haul up S.W. ^ W. or • VsrisUon 10° W. in 1810. li U now 7° 35! 'iglz-edbyLriOOgle BODBiaUES. 643 S.W., keeping a good look-out on the port bow for a 2^ fathom shoal, which is generailj visible. When Diamond island is open with Diamond point yoa are within the shoals, and may run down to the westward, and anchor in 12 or 12^ fathoms sand and mud, with the peak bearing from S. ^ W. to S. ^ E., and Diamond island between two knobs or hummocks near the point, which is the most oonvenient berth for watering. " Western ChanneL-^ThB wind is too scant to sail out by the Eastern Channel, a ship leaving the anchorage, should, therefore, use the Western Channel, and so soon as the anchor is weighed for that purpose, get her head round to W.N.W. and run down till the peak bears S. by B. nearly, then haul up N. by W. or N. J W. (observ- ing how the tide sets you, so as to keep the peak bearing S. IQP K), and when the north*east point of the island is open with the east point of the bay, you are clear of all the shoali, and will have 16 or 17 fathoms water. A rocky patch of 3^ fathoms has been discovered nearly in the middle of the Western Channel, and was maiked in 1810 by a blue buoy. The peak just opened westward of the large house leads a ship between the rocky patch and the western extremity of the middle ground, " When sailing into or out of this harbour, a good look-out from the fore or fore* topsail yard is advisable, for the shoal coral reefs may often be easily seen when the water is dear ; a boat ahead is also a necessary precaution for those who are un- acquamted. " The soundings decrease regularly from 30 iktiiomB, 2 or 3 miles off, to 8 or 9 fathoms, within a cable's length of the reef." For a general description of the winds, see p. 74. To the foregoing remarks on Bodrigues may be added the following extracts from a description of the island by Edwabd Hiqgik, Esq., read at a meeting of the Boyal Geographical Society, London, June 26, 1848 :— " The island is one of the dependencies of Great Britain, and at present within the jorisdiotion of the government of the Mauritius. It is situated in Lat. 10° SO' S„ liong. 63° SO' E., within the tropics, and under the influence of the S.E. Trade- winds. " The land extends in a nearly due east and west direction for about 12 miles, with coral ree& running out about 3 miles more at the western end. The width varies from 3 to 6 miles, the narrowest part being towards the east, where the cliffs rise abruptly from the shore, with deep water immediately outside a barrier reef. The appearance of the island is striking &om the ocean. A central peak of granite rises from amidst a group of biUs, divided from each other by valleys running north and south. " The chief substance of the land is granite, with beds of overlying sandstone and limestone. Masses of red and grey granite are met with, which appear to have been subject to igneous action, and are much disintegrated. The subsoil appeared gene- rally to be clay, a stiff gravelly earth, with a fine loam on the surface ; but the rapid growth of vegetation in such a climate prevents a cursory examination, such as mine, from being worth much. " The mildness of the climate equals or exceeds that of the Mauritius. The island is of too small an extent to feel the influence of ' land and sea breezes,' but the steady trade-wind keeps the temperature cool and equable. The same cause pro- duces great humidity, the quantity of rain that falls being very great. '* Tbexe are springs of excellent water in the interior, but on the coast the natives 64A ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. are dependent on the water coming down the rivulets, whicL, after rain, if charged with (»dcareou8 matter, or tinged with iron, and in sammer not nn frequently fkila altogether. Several small cascades are found on the northern side. The chief stream falls over a rock about 60 feet high, and shortly after enters the sea at the port of Mathurin. " From the hilly nature of the land, the rain which falls is soon restored to the ooean: an' hour after a shower has fallen the thundering of the cascades may be heard some distance, but the disturbance soon ceases, and a tiny streamlet alone remains. " The ' port of Mathurin,' as the harbour is called, is merely a sheltered road- stead to leeward of the island, with the anchoring ground some f of a mile from the shore. There is a deep and tolerably large basin, with 13 to 16 fathoms water (the sides of which are formed by precipitous coral reefs, over which the breakers roll incessantly,) where small vessels anchor ; but it would hardly be safb for large vessels ; and Captain Kellt, of H.M.S. Conway, when on an exploring expedi- tion in 1844, prefen*ed anchoring his ship outside the reefs in 35 fathoms. An opening in the reef enables boats to go backwards and forwards without much danger from the surf. " There is but a small tidal rise, the variation being from 5 to 6 feet between high and low water. After a hurricane, storm-waves break on the shore, but I found without the damaging effects which result from them in the Mauritius." EAST COAST OF MADAGASCAR. On the east coast of Madagascar, from cape St. Mary, its south point, to cape Amber, its north extremity, an extent comprised between Latitudes 25^ 36' and 12^ S., there are but few ports frequented by foreign shipping. The skore has in general only a moderate elevation, and is usually well- wooded ; towards the northern end of the island it becomes bolder. The edge of the bank of soundings seldom lies at a further distance from the land than 4 to 8 miles, and is immediately succeeded by deep water. The most healthy part of this coast appears to be the neighbourhood of Fort Dauphin, whence it gradually becomes less healthy as you proceed northward. The east coast of Madagascar has been only imperfectly surveyed, and some parts of it still remain unexplored. Adhisal Owen, B.N., was employed in surveying this coast from 1823 to 1826, and much of the information we possess of it is derived from his examination. Since 1826 some of the ports have been surveyed by French officers, and we believe a thorough survey of the coast is at present (1865) being carried on by M. Gbsmain, of the French Navy, CMipe St. Mary, the south extremity of Madagascar, is in Lat. 25^ 39' S. and Long. 45° 7' E. From this cape eastward to fort Dauphin along the south shore of Madagascar (which is in general mountainous and with a bold coast), the depths are 40 to 50 fathoms at four to five miles from the land, on a bank of regular soundings, the outer edge of which has not been traced. Vort PanpHin.— At 110 miles eastward from cape St Mary, fbUowing the eoast. MADAGASCAB. 645 is the small bay of fort Dauphin, in the western port of whioh there is anchorage in 6 to 3 fathoms, under protection of the reef extending from the point. Here was formerly a French settlement, abandoned in consequence of the hostility of the natives, and unhealthiness of the climate in the rainy season. The anchorage is now seldom visited by foreign shipping, and the fort is, we believe, in ruins. The bay of fort Dauphin, or Tolonghare, is about 8 miles in extent from point to point; the coast-line falls in about 4 miles from a straight line joining the two points. The eastern point, named Itapere, is surrounded by a reef, and has a rock off it at the distance of about three-quarters of a mile ; in the channel between, the old chart of M. Msngauo be la Kjlqh, represents a depth of 4| to 15 fathoms. This rock is said to be a very good mark for the point, as the sea always breaks upon it. The village of Itapere is in a little rocky cove at 1^ miles from the extremity of the point. The west point of the bay of fort Dauphin is even land, and the country behind is mountainous ; it is surrounded by a reef, which juts out in a north-easterly direction a considerable distance ; eastward of this point the bottom, in a depth of 10 to 16 fathoms, is rocky, consisting principally of coral. On the south-west side of the point is Gallions bay, which is fronted by a reef. When bound to fort Dauphin it is recommended to make the land northward of it, in about Lat. 24P S., because of the strong southerly currents which are said to flow at the rate of 40 to 50 miles per day. To avoid their effect during the night in approaching the bay, if the weather permit, and you meet with a sandy bottom, it is advisable to anchor, unless the breeze is sufficiently strong to enable you to withstand their force. These violent currents ai'e occasioned by the winds, which the French have called y^r^ Dauphin winds ; they prevail the whole year from the N.E., and extend about 30 miles &om the coast; they are first met with between the 22nd and 23rd parallels, where they have scarcely any force, but grow stronger on the 24th parallel. A ship once to leeward of fort Dauphin cannot possibly enter the harbour : the mountains, which are extremely lofty in this part of Madagascar, are probably the cause of these local winds. M. Mbngaud db la Haoe observed that these winds experience a revolution about the fall and change of the moon, when they are from the West, — or it is calm for two or three days ; at this time he recommends shipmasters to leave fort Dauphin, taking advantage of this change, as at other times it is difficult to get away. This officer likewise mentions a reef in Lat. 24*^ 22' S., extending 4 miles from the shore, which is so steep that at less than half a mile from its edge is a deptli of 40 fathoms ; and he is of opinion that there may be other dangers thereabout which are not inserted in charts. When the land in Lat. 24° S. is first seen a chain of very lofty mountains comes into view, supposed to be not less than 10,800 feet high ; and in Lat. 24° 15' to 24° 18' S, a hummock, in the form of a sugar loaf, is distinguished amidst some sand-hills on the seapshore. Then ranging along the shore at 2-^ leagues distance, a reef may be perceived in Lat. 24° 22' S., which projects to a considerable distance from the land {see the preceding paragraph) ; and a little I'urther southward you discover, through St. Lucia islands, some small rocky shoals under water, at a consi- derable distance from the coast, between Latitudes 24° 35' S. and 24° 45' S. Con- tinuing to sail along at the same distance a point will come into sight, S.W. by W. appearing at fii'st to stand by itself, with two hummocks more flat than round, and after this another, with hummocks of the same shape |gj^||^g^^'0(5W[^ n N 54e ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. ha^e been often taken for point Itapere, which is the next» or third in order* having Kharp*pointed hummooka upon it. When yon oome near the second point, ranging along the coast at 1^ league's distance, there are shoals, some of which extend about two miles from the shore ; it is therefore advisable to give the shore an offing of 6 or 6 miles, or even more. Arrived at point Itapera you will be in front of the bay of fort Dauphin.* If obliged to anchor in the bay of fort Dauphin in consequence of daylight failing before the roadstead is reached, some care is required to choose the ground aa it ia not all of the same quality. Water may be obtained at the landing-place by digging in the sand, but there are plentiful springs of good water at a small distance inland. lUuioiiftmtil Say« — ^At a short distance from fort Dauphin bay is the little hay of Banoufoutsi, which is open to winds from S. to 8.£. The holding ground ia not good, and the anchorage is very bad ; hence it is never frequented by foreign vesseb* although such necessaries as ships require may be obtained there with facility. Aouewif or St, Olaire Bay.— This little place is about midway between fort Dauphin bay and that of St. Lucia. It offers excellent anchorage, has good shelter, and the water is as smooth in it as in a basin, but, unfortunately, its depth ia onlj sufficient for vessels of 50 or 60 tons. Some sunken rocks render the entrance dangerous. St. Avetaff or lKuiral|aa^.---At about 15 miles northward from fort Dauphin following the coast, i^ the bay of St. Lucia, or Mangafiafa, which is protected from eastward by a chain of islets and reefs, under shelter of which vessels anchor in 8 to 4 fathoms, sand and mud. Of this place it is useless to attempt a description, for no shipmaster should attempt to run into it without having a chart of it at band for reference. BBeniiitlBvi&e, or Ambatoabo.t— This river is 92 miles northward from St. Lucia, and in approaching it from southward some care is required to avoid a sunken rock at a mile from the shore ; distant 7 miles from St. Lucia. The Menintingue ia * '* The proTlnoe of AnoBfl extendi alonn: the ronth-eait costt of MadAguenr fh>m the rlTer Masfimbatou. in Lat. 24° 84' S., to tbot of Handrercl, in about Lat. 25° 30' ». lU mean breadth }r (t to 7 leagues, and its superHcIal extent about 1 CO square leagues. It is bnnndeo*i, JajzLes luvrayJe Son.. MADAGASCAR. 549 the depth is 15, 16, and 18 fathoms, and at a mile seaward from it there is no bottom at 20 fathgms. irony Vabo.— At 7 J miles, in a N. by E. direction from Nossj Domballa, and opposite a gentle projection of the coast named point Vatte, is a reef called Nossy Faho, lying N.N.E. and S.S. W. 1^ miles, the edges of which are probably steep. Its centre is in Lat. 18^ 19' S., and Long. 49° 31' 9" E, At 3 cables' length from its north end the depth is 8 fathoms ; and at a mile from it, in the same direction, about 30 fathoms. It consists of coral, sand, and broken shells, and in time will probably become covered with vegetation. From Nossy Faho to Tamatave the coast is believed to be clear of danger, bat is of such a character that no landing can be effected upon it. At a little northward from Nossy Faho, on the shore side, there is a large village, named Tvondroo, standing on the left bank of a river, the entrance to which is obstructed by a bar of sand to the distance of a cable's length from the coast. Along the coast from Nossy Domballa to Tamatave there is ao creek nor any place of shelter into which a vessel may run in case of need. The currents off it are often very strong. In July, 1862, the French ship Perle, anchored on the north- west side of Nossy Domballa, was driven from her anchor by the sole force of the current, and carried in half an hour more than a mile to the northward ; and in September, 1863, the current was observed to run southward at a rate of 2 miles an hour before a strong breeze from the N.N.E. TAlSATAVa« or TAOaKASZKA.— This is a large town of probably 10,000 in- habitants, built upon a low sandy point, named Hastie, situated in Lat. 18° 10' 50" S., and Long. 49° 32' 19" E.* It is protected by a fort north of the city, and on point Tanio, one mile further northward, are the ruins of another fort. The principal trade is in cattle. Water is scarce, and difficult to get. It is said that poultry and fruits are the only supplies that can be obtained. Point Hastie is surrounded by a reef which has an extent of about a mile Nortli and South, and runs out seaward from the land nearly half a mile. The northern part of this reef consists of a bank of sand and coral, having a depth over it of 16 feet at a cable's length from its rocky part. The sea does not always break upon this reef, but as, during the ebb, the current' flows southward with some strength, it frequently causes vessels to ground upon the bank, and these afterwards become ^vrecked upon the coral part of the reef. The landing at Tamatave is north-westward of the reef surrounding point Hastie, in a little creek under the reef. A head of coral, situated a short distance westward from the edge of the reef, must be cautiously avoided. At half a mile south-westward from point Hastie is the centre of the south reef of Tamatave, upon which (the centre) is a depth of not more than 10 feet at low tidci During the North East Monsoon the sea is much smoother here than north- ward of point Hastie. Oroat Soefa— At half a mile north-eastward from the reef surrounding point Hastie is the south end of the Qreat reef, which has an extent of about 1^ miles S.S.W. and N.N.E. It is through the channel between these reefs that vessels approach the anchorage of Tamatave, where is a depth of 6 to 13 fathoms, mud. • Dependent upon the aocnnoy of the Longltade of the If6iel da CfottverwmetU at St. Denis, Bdonion, determined to be 56° 80' 1" £. See the arttole on " Keunion."^. .^.^^^ ^ LjOOQ IC 660 ISLANDS IN TKE INDIAN OCEAN. The directioii of ihe channel is N.W. and S.E. (true), occasioned by a coral bank of about 4 fathoms, detached from the south-east side of the Gfeat reef. In this channel the depth is 8 to 15 fathoms, mud and coral — the mark to sail through it is point Tanio, situated 1^ milee northward of the town, and having a cluster of trees upon it, bearing N.W. by N. The aaohorftge at Tamatave is within the Great reef in 6| to lOi fathoms, mud, with the flagstaff of the fort bearing W. by 8. i S. ; the ship should be moored W. by S. and £. by N. There is also anchorage in 9^ to 13 fathoms, soft mud, between point Tanio and the Great reef, but it is more exposed than that nearer the town ;— the bearings are point Tanio W. by S. ; and the flsgstaff of the ibrt, S.W. i S. Xdtue Beef. — At about half a mile north-eastward from the north end of the Great reef, is the south end of the Little reef, which thence extends north-eastward nearly three-quarters of a mile. Upon this reef there is a head of coral awaah, or nearly so, at low water, but in other respects the soundings are 13 to ,27 feet. Its edge is steep, there being 8 to 14 fathoms almost close to it. In the channel between the reefs the soundings are 7i to 10 fathoms, but it is not a safe passage owing to the absence of a leading mark, and the strong current and heavy sea which generally prevail. Vorth-Bast Beef. — At 1^ mile in a N.N.E. direction from the Little reef is the south end of the North-East reef, — a reef half a mile in extent K.N.E. ^ £., and S.S.W. i W. It has a depth over it at low tide of 18 to 20 feet, and its edges are steep, especially that to seaward, where from 11 ikthoms the lead soon drops into 18 fathoms. The channel between the Little and North-East reefs is named the Great Passage, to distinguish it from that between the Great reef and point Hastie, which is known to the natives as the Little Passage. The depth is 18 to 9 fathoms, the latter being in the middle of the channel. The only available mark appears to be point Tanio kept between the bearings of S.W. i S. and S.W. i W. (S. 33° W. and 8. 48^ W. true), until point Hastie, remarkable by its edging of trees, bears S. by W. i W., when the northern anchorage of Tamatave, between point Tanio and the Great reef, may be run for. IToaay Alanftf or Mmii laiMid.— This small island is distant 6^ miles from point Hastie in a N.N.E. | E. direction, and about 2^ miles from the shore. It is rather more than ^ of a mile long North and South, and about i^ of a mile in breadth East and West, and is rendered remarkable by the lofty and regular vegetation which covers it. The island and the trees are sufficiently lofly to be visible from a distance of 15 miles ; hence they form a very useful mark for vessels boond to Tamatave or Foule point from the south-eastward, or during the season of southerly winds. Around tlie island is a coral reef which extends outward about a cable's length on all sides but the N.W., in which part boats may land in &ir weather. The soundings between the island and the coast are 11 to 18 fathoms.* * M. n^APBES t>E Hahhsvillette, 1757, sajB : ** Three leagnes to the N.N.E. of Kobi^ Alsaa there is a rocky bank with breakers ; at 1^ leigae farther on the aame bearing there is a shoal with 3 futhoms water upon it ; and one league to the N.N.E. of this there i^ another with 4 fkthoms upon it ( these dangers ate only one league distant tnm the shore." These shoals were wmii^ . tM^Mkf sought for in 1838, by M. GEaaiAnr of the French Imperial Navy, and la addition none of the local traders of whom he inquired knew of their existo&oe. In March, 1867, GAFUkiv EsTiERME, of the Afarie EugmU, stated that he had met with a shoal of abmt Ul liBttw^ In MADAGASCAB. 5^1 I ftaef.— At at)oat a mile N.E. ) £. from Nossy Alaaa ib the soath end of the North reef, which thence extends in the same direction 1^ miles. The soundings upon it are 4| fathoms to 7 feet, the latter being at two miles from the island. In the channel between the south end of the reef and the island there are two shoal spots of 16 and 27 feet. From point Tanio the coast of the main land runs nearly North and South (tnie) ; it is low and wooded towards the shore. Some marshes and lakes commence at two or three miles firom Tamatare, and ultimately join the river Ivolohyny, the entrance to which is 8o changeable that it cannot be navigated. The shore throughout is safe, and with a depth of not less than 7^ fathoms at a | of a mile from it. Onnreiits. — The currents along the coast follow the direction of the wind, but in the roadstead they are influenced by the tides. During the season of southerly winds their flow is almost constantly northward between the shore and Great reef. TmnuMkvm' to Vonto Voint. — From Nossy Alana to Foule point the coast in- creases in height as you recede from Tamatave, and is well wooded. The country in the interior rises gradually into four distinct chains of mountains, of which the last one can be seen from a great distance. There are many small streams flowing easterly to the sea, which are a great impediment to the land communication be' tween Tamatave and Foule point, and as they have but a slight fall they render the ooimtry very unhealthy during the rainy season. When sailing along the coast northward from Tamatave, the Mamelles de Natte (in Lat. I'T 47' S., and Long. 49^ 34^ E., and distant from Nossy Alana about 17 miles) are a very valuable landmark. They consist of a mountain of no very great elevation, at about thi-ee miles from the shore, the summit of which forms in two small hills ; the name Natte is from a village at its base. Between these and the shore are two similar hills of less elevation. The Mamelles de Natte are serviceable as a guide for Foule point, 3 leagues northward from them, because when East (true) from them Nossy Alana is not visible ; if then, directly this island disappears under the horizon, on a bearing of S.W. i S., the Mamelles at the time bearing WJN'.W., a course of N. ^ W. may be steered for Foule point.* The coast in the vicinity of Foule point is foul to the distance of one or two cables' length. r^ or Moronfblotra. — ^This is a large village on point Bafalah, in Lat. ir' 39' 4&" S., and Long. 4SP 37' 29" E., wheiV- JEAO ■ ^* k I ■T ■ "1 V 1 <; • ^^.^.r •-■; "'' ;• . ^. ^^ * %4W »^V.'-V. TU ^U-> •..X. ■• / Digitized by VjOOQ IC MADAGASCAR, 6SS The anohorage of Fenoarivo is safe only during the fine season (froni April to October), when vessels may anchor in 4^ fathoms, muddy sand, — at a little north of the line, the masts of the battery and custom-house in one. In winter the anchorage is further out, in 6 fathoms, sand and gravel, with the two masts in one, and the extremity of point Tokondro open of Nossy Ilansambo. The roadstead is quite open to winds from northward and eastward. Blver Manaaffonr—From Eenoarivo a low and but little wooded coast trends to the N.N.W. The river Mauangovy, in Lat. 17° 13' 30" S., is one of the largest and deepest on this side of Madsgascar, but is inaccessible, its mouth being closed by a sand bank. Northward of this river the hills advance to the sea and form a pro- jecting point, after which the shore has a N.N.E. direction about 8 miles ; the hills then increase considerably in altitude, and the shore is lined with reefs to about 2 cables* length out, beyond which are regular soundings, and a depth of about 7^ fathoms at a mile from the beach. At 25 miles from the river Manangory is point Ansiraka or Larr^e, in the channel of Nossy Bourah (Island St. Mary). irofiST BOmuva (SSXiAVD at. aiA&T).--The south end, point Blev^e, of this island, is in Lat. 17° 7' S., and Long. 49° 54*' E. It is a very narrow island, having an extent of nearly 30 miles in a direction parallel to the coast, from which it is distant 13 miles, excepting near its centre, where a point of land projects from Madagascar and narrows the channel to only 4 miles. Its vegetation is dense, giving the island an extremely attractive appearance, but unfortunately making it very unhealthy. The south point is formed by a small flat islet, named Nattes, separated from it by a narrow channel only deep enough for boats ; from this islet a reef extends 1} mile to the S.W. by S., South, and S.£. Point Albrand, the north end of the island, has a reef extending from it about half a mile. The east and west shores of the island are fronted by a reef, in the former instance to the distance (seaward) of 2^ or 3 miles. This reef is, we believe, so steep, that from it the lead falls at once into 11 or 15 fathoms. A rock, named Whale rock (or Ankhorraka) is two miles from the eastern shore; its position is about Lat. 16° 55' 30^' S. ; Long. 50° 41 E. The principal anchorage is on the west side of the island off Madame island, at about 8 miles from point Blev^e. When running for it from southward, the coast of Nossy Bourah should be approacheil as closely as the soundings permit, until the vessel Ls westward of a white tower (Whaler's tower) erected upon a small rock, from which a small light is occasionally exhibited (1864). Madame island, with its houses and buildings, will now be perceived at less than a mile distant. Some care is required in the selection of the anchorage, a 10-feet head of coral having been discovered in it so recently as 1849 ; the best place is in 16^ fathoms, sand, shells, and coral, with the jetty of Madame island in one with the jetty of the large island. At the anchorage the flag-staff of the island bears S. 13° E. ; the church and the extremities of the two jetties S. 32° E. ; Sorcier's point, a little hill north of the village of Ambodifotra, which is easily recognised, ^N. 67° E., and the Whaler's tower, S. 34° W. Or a vessel may anchor in 18 or 20 fathoms with Madame island bearing S. by W. ^ W., and point Ansiraka nearly N. by E. \ £., about 3 leagues. From northward the anchorage off Madame isknd is easily gained, and there is no difficulty in recognising the settlement^ as it is about 10 mil 'igitized by 564 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. from poiot AnBiraka, and wiUi the exception of Antsazak* is the only place where there are buildings of maiiODry. Antearak ia 13 miles northward of Madame iahind, and about 8 miles from point Albrand, the north extremity of Noesy Bourah. Port St. Mary.— Madame island is in Lat V (f l(y' S., Long. 49"" 57' 5" £. It has an extent of not more than a cable's length, and is surrounded by a reef to the distance of a cable's length, upon which is a smaller islet joined to it by a dike. The port will not admit vessels drawing more than 10 feet, and these, on aooount of the numerous heads of coral scattered about, must be navigated by some one havin«^ local knowledge. Water of indiffsrent quality may be procured in abundance. Pro- visions and fruits are scarce and dear. The forests are being so rapidly cleared that timber is difficult to obtain. Attempts have been made to introduce the sugar-cane, but without success. The settlement is very unhealthy, but is still held by tiie French, on aooount of its important geographical position. cnuuiaol of IToMj Bonmli. — The channel separatbg Nossy Bourah &om the shore Ib about 30 miles long, and firom 17 to 32 faliioms deep. In nearly its centre a low point of land, named Ansiraka or Larr^, juts out 9 miles from the coast of Madagascar, and narrows the channel Otmaiderably. This land can he seen only itom a distance of 10 miles. On the north side of this point vessels may anchor during the southerly Monsoon, at about a mile from the village, where fresh piovistons may be obtained in abundance. In Nossy Bourah channel the currents are strong, and frequently in the direction of the wind ; in the narrow part of the channel, where its breadth b confined by point Larr^, their force is considerable. Their direction is generally northward. VittttncmOf or Taagtang. — This bay is situated on the north side of point Ansiraka, at about 10 miles north-westward from its extremity. It is 3 miles in ex- tent, and has a depth of 7 to 3 fathoms, but u so much encumbered with shoals that no one should attempt to enter it without a pilot. When within, a ship is in a per- fectly secure anchorage, well sheltered from almost all winds. I BAT (MuraHABXB Bait).-- From the north end of Nossy Bourah the coast of Madagascar runs northward 30 miles to cape Bellones, the south point of the extensive bay of Antongil, from which Dumford Nobs, its south-eastern point, is distant about 24 miles in an easterly direction. Between these two points the bay extends northward 40 miles, with a width of 28 to 16 miles. The soundings at the entrance are 40 and 36 fathoms, which decrease gradually to port Choiseul at the head of the bay, where the depth ia 13 and 10 fathoms. The coast from Dumford Noss eastward is bordered by a reef to the distance, seaward, of 2 or 3 miles, upon which are two islets — that near Dumford Noss bearing the name of Behentou, and that 6 miles more esstward, Nepatte. As this part of the entrance of the bay does not appear to have been tiioroughly examined, it will be prudent to give it a wide berth when passing. Port Choiseul is an excellent anchorage, where vessels ride in 7 to 6 frithoms, im- mediately westward of the entrance to the river Tungumbaly, and dose to the viUsge of Maran Seetzy. The river is barred, and can only be navigated by boats : the bar has 6 to 9 feet upon it, and within it for a short distance is a depth of 24 feet, whidi is succeeded by 10 to 7 feet, and less. At li miles southward from portChoisenl, and almost fronting the river Tungum- baly, is an island named MaroiM, wheaoe wood and water may be uoeorad with Digitized by VjOOQIC MADAGASCAB. 555 faoilitj. Southward of ihit island are some islets, or rocks, the furthermost being 4 miles from it. The anchorage westwai'd of the island is known as Hastie road ; the depth at a mile from it is 12 fiiithoms, mud. Vessels may also anchor at a similar distance north-eastward from it, in 14 and 15 fathoms. During the southerly Monsoon, Antongil bay may be approached from the south- ward, either eastward or westward of Nossy Bourah ; but in the northerly Monsoon, it should be run for direct. When running up the bay, either shore may be taken as may be convenient, provided such a berth be given it as wUi clear all outlying dangers. When leaving the bay and bound northward, steer along the eastern shore, taking advantage of favourable breezes, with the ebb-tide ; if necessary, vessels may anchor southward of Behentou. ▼enliignaba Bagr. — ^At about 3 miles northward of Nepatte island, is a small bay named Yeninguebe, in Lat. 16^ 64', and Long. 6(P 15' E. It is a rocky place, unsafe for large ships, but contains anchorage in 7 fathoms, under shelter of the reef at the entrance. The Glaire was wrecked on this reef in 1761, when leaving the bay. ITffoaoy. — ^From Yeninguebe bay the coast of Madagascar trends N.N.E. (true) 40 miles to N'goncy or cape East, in Lat. 15^ 16' S., off which is a small islet seated upon the reef projecting from the coast; all this coast is fronted with reefs, and should consequently have a good berth given to it. N'goncy road 1^ miles north of the islet, is an anchorage between the reefs ; it is about half a mile wide, and has soundings of 8 to 5 fiithoms, except in its southern part, where the depth at a mile within the entrance is 4 and 3^ fathoms. The shelter in this inner part is from all winds but those from noiih>eastward; protection from eastward being afforded by the reef extending out from cape East, and from northward by the reef in the north part of the bay. The seaward edge of the reefs is steep, the soundings dose to it being 7 to 14 fathoms. In the northern part of N'goncy bay is the town of N'gab^, on the south shore of a large river, the entrance to which is barred. In the southern part of the bay is the town of N'goncy. From ci^ East the shore of Madagascar, northward as far as cape Amber, is rocky and fronted with coral reels to the distance seaward of four miles in some places. The land is generally high and uneven, except near the sea; in some places it is level and of moderate height. In Lat 13° 2(y S. is Yohemar bay, fronted with reefs, and with soundings inside of 18 to 10 feet, access to which is difficult for strangers. Northward of this, 4 or 5 miles, is Manambatoo^ a large vUlage. Aadsmv* Baar« — At 22 miles northward from Yohemar bay is Andrara bay, in Lat> 12° 55' S., which is about 1^ miles in extenti of circular form, and with an island in the middle of the entrance. This island has a reef jutting out from its north and south extremities, leaving a channel on either side of 4 to 9 fathoms^ The bay is open to North and N.E. winds, but in its southern part there is probably shelter from easterly winds in 4 or 5 fathoms, at about three-quarters of a mile south-westward of Beriy Head^ its eastern point. In this part the soundings rapidly become shallow. -Northward of Andrava bay, about a mile, is the Digitized by 1S^S|l^e' 556 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. reef, which thenoe extends northward 7 miles, and has upon it several islands ; of these the northernmost and largest is named How. This reef is separated from the reef lining the shore hy a channel 9 to 6 fathoms deep, hearing the name of port Leven. On the western side of the northern entrance to this channel is Manam- beedy island, sarrounded and connected to the shore by a reef; close to the south side of this island is a bay in the reef, in which the depth is 6 to 3 fathoms. Port Leven is 1^ miles wide at the entrance, and continues of this width for about 2 miles, when it begins gradually to narrow, and thenoe continues southward with a width of ^ a mile for another two miles ; the depths are 8 to 7 fathoms throughout the harbour, except in the bay in the reef on the south side of Manam- beedy, just alluded to ; and there is a coral head of 3 fathoms in mid-channel of the harbour. The course into the harbour in S. by W. for 2| or 3 miles, then S. i £. through the upper or inner harbour, where is shelter from all winds ; vestsek may also anchor on the south side of Manambeedy island, and be in perfect security. An excellent mark for this part of the coast is mount Amber, a high mountaia in the interior, the centre of which is iu Lat. 12° 35' S. It extends north and south several miles, and can be seen from a great distance. Port Leven was visited in 1849 by M. Bolle, of the French navy. The following description is chiefly from his report :^- ** The north-east part of Madagascar is remarkable for its indented coast, and for its numerous bays, containing excellent anchorage. Port Leven consists of a narrow channel of 6^ to 8 fathoms, having an opening to the south at the cape fonning the north side of Andrava bay. On its eastern side are a number of islets on the reef, and on its western side is the reef which borders the coast ; the port is, therefore, between these two reefii. When bound to the port from seaward, it is necessary to make the land south of Andrava bay, to avoid the effect of the northerly set of the current A good mark to seek for is Pouoe mountain, a lofty mountain in the interior, 6 miles southward of Port Look6, the summit of which will be recognised by its resemblance to an eagle's beak, and by its having a deep cleft on its right side ; this should be brought to bear W. by N., and it will lead to Andrava bay, approaching which the reddish land forming the south point of the bay will be recognised. In 1849 there were two large trees, the only trees vbible on this land ; when first seen they were supposed to be a tower or a high rock. "The Leven islands are low, and covered with high shrubs; but How and Manambeedy, the two largest isles, have trees upon them. The anchorage may be approached either from southward or northward; the southern channel, between Point Liverpool and Manampaha islet, is, however, so tortuous, narrow, and fall of dangers, that it should be attempted only by those having a good knowledge of its intricacies, and, even then, a man should be aloft to point out the coral heads ; the north channel is, consequently, the better of Uie two for large ships. *' Whether making Barracouta islet direct, or first making Andrava (P Berry head), and thence coasting to Barracouta, care must be taken that tlie ship be not carried to the northward, in which direction the current always runs in the offing, bat especially so towards evening, as the wind veers to the southward ; a day or two may otherwise be lost. " When up with Barracouta, and having passed it at the distance of 3 cables, make for North islet, which is but a few yards above the sea level, of a dark colour, and easily seen* Passing to the norUl«ea8tward of North islet, do not ar^roach it Digitized by LjOOQIC MADAGASCAR. 557 nearet than 4 cables ; after which you will soon make out the entrance to the North channel between the reefs eastward of Manambeedy island, and those westward of North islet; for this channel yon may steer, bearing in mind that these reefs, which are continued on each side of the channel, are equally dangerous, and must not be approached too closely ; therefore, when beating in, keep sounding. The anchorage is in mid-channel, 1 mile to the westward of, and abreast the, north point of How island ; this point is sandy, and uncovers for a considerable distance at low water. " The Little Middle bank, though sandy on the surface, is based on coral, as are most of the obstructions in the channel. " If the wind be not favourable for beating in during the latter part of the day, it were better to anchor outside for the night, and wait the next mid-day breosses. " There is another anchorage at port Leven ; it is in mid-channel between Mooree, How, and Shatta islands, — abreast of and scarcely | of a mile eastward of the centre of Mooree. Here there is good shelter, and all parts of the bay are within easy reach -—especially the sandy beach on the main opposite Manambeedy, where landing is easiest. A vessel intending to stay at port Leven for any length of time should select this anchorage ; but if merely calling for a day or so, the anchorage between How and Manambeedy islands (previously mentioned), is sufficiently safe — especially during the fine season. " On the west side of the channel there is a bay between Manambeedy island and the main, which would give good shelter even to frigates, but it is difficult of access, — contracted at the entrance, and therefore dangerous. The reef, extending to some distance southward of the south point of Manambeedy, is broken into manjf separate knolls, between which there are good depths of water, but these are not easily distin- guished ; — therefore, if intending to anchor in this bay for repairs or oUier purposes, the channel must be buoyed to the north and south. The reef on the south side of the bay—and which also fringes the mainland— does not consist of knolls, and at low water is nearly bare throughout its whole length. On the other hand, the reef on the north side of the bay is always under water, and must be approached with great caution ; — above all, avoid placing a buoy on a knoll, leaving others unmarked to the southward. In the bay the bottom is of black sand, covered with alga. *' Manambeedy island is girt with rocks, projecting in knolls from the coral bank which surrounds it on every side. The island is low, gently undulating, and covered with clumps of trees. At low water the south shore is a strand of sand, with an admixture of mud. " How island is sandy, and well wooded at the north end ; this wood bums well, and makes good charcoal. The south and east ends of the island are higher than any other part, — ^but are chiefly dry ridges or hillocks wholly destitute of verdure (1864), " The surface of the other islands is irregular and covered with briars, which render them difficult of access. Shatta island abounds in large bats — peculiarly de* licious in a culinary sense. Mooree island is surrounded by mangroves, and is scarcely above the level of the water. " The most remarkable point on the coast, in the vicinity of the anchorage, is cape Art^mise, formed by a hummock slightly elevated above a plain covered with palms and other (less important) trees. This hummock, at most z(^\||n^ 658 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. high, ov^erlooks ihe bav, and is the only point Tisible in every direction. At its 1 on the N. W. aide, there is a pool of stagnant and muddy water. ''Fresh water is not readily procured near the shores during the dry season, though it must he abundant enough during the rains ; still there must be water not far distant, for the sustenance of the wild cattle. " Tree hill, not far from Bird island, is close to the shore, and from this point the land rises into small ranges of hills, which finally unite with the mountains in the interior. " Point Liverpool is formed by a chain of hillocks, commencing with a pointed hill in the south ; towards the north point, as well as in the interior and in Andrava haiy, the hills decrease in altitude, and finally disappear. " The current along the main is always towards the north ; but in the N. channel, between How and Manambeedy islands, the flood tide runs in the opposite direction. " Boating is no easy task, owing to the innumerable heads of coral in every part of the channel, near the coast, and around the islands ; during the day thero is also at times a chopping sea, very &tiguing to the rowers ; Unding is always difficult, but generally impossible at low water. " The prevalent S.E. wind is tolerably fresh during the day ; it hauls to the south- ward in the evening and during the night, — occasionally interrupted by squalls from the land.*' POBT XOOXSy or LouQUES, Lb an inlet at about 8 miles westward from port Leven. Its direction is S.S.W., and the soundings arc 17 to 9 and 3 fathoms on a very rugged bottom. The channel lies between reefs, is only half a mile wide, and very irregular in its general direction, so that great care is required when running to the inner anchorage. The extent of the harbour is nearly 8 miles, but the greater part of it is too shallow for vessels of moderate size, hence such proceed not further than perhaps 4 miles from the entrance ; the soundings in this part are of sand. The shelter is almost landlocked, as the port is closed to all winds except those firom N.N.E. The entrance between the reefs is only half a mile wide, is 17 to 30 fathoms deep, and at 2 miles outside it there is no bottom at 100 fathoms. When approaching port Lookd from eastward, it is necessary to be careful and not mistake a bay between it and Manambeedy islet for the port ; from the possibility of this error occurring this bay is named False port. At 4 miles outside the entrance of port Look^, and at a short distance from the coast, there is a large island named Kahoomby ; it is joined to the shore by a reef, and from it a reef borders the coast as far as the entrance to the port. AmbaTaranim (PofiT RiaNY).''From port Look6 the coast trends N. i W. 22 miles to a large inlet named Ambavaranou, the entrance to which may be recog- nised by a white sandy mount on the shore at about 2 miles south of it and by Whale islet, a large rock H miles N. by £. from it, upon which the sea breaks even during calm weather. The channel in is one^third of a mile broad, and more than 13 fathoms deep i it is bounded on the north by the south end of an island named OuvilHer» and on the south by a point of moderate height, from which a reef prq|eett \k short distance \ on this reaf outside tht harboor there is a small ieltt At a very Kttlf within the entraaea, off the north shore, there is an island named Oyster ialasd. northward of which the water is all thallow. The soundingt in the(iBl|i^^%^ nulta HADAaASCAB. 669 from the entrance are 13 to 6| fathoms on a very irregular bottom ; they then beoome shallow, and navigation to the head of the inlet can only be accomplished by boats. The mark by which vessels should enter Ambavaranoa inlet is the Fouth point of Oyster island in one with a cliffy roonnt, bearing W. i S. (S. 87^ 65' W. true). As the island is approached the course should be directed to W. by S. } S., as that will lead up the inlet clear of the extensive reef which occupies the whole of its southern part ; anchor where most convenient. Care should be taken when running in to keep closer to the north than the south side of entrance, that side being deeper. During the greater part of the year the currents outside the inlet run with great strength to the N.W.;. yet while the N.E. Monsoon prevails it is not unusual to find a current setting to the S.S.E. at the rate of half a mile an hour. i.— This magnificent harbour is 15 miles north-westward from Ambavaranou inlet, and 17 miles southward from cape Amber, the north extremity of Madagascar, Clarence island, at its entrance, being in Lat. 12^ 13' 8" S., and Long. 49^ 23' 4' E. Its extent is 7 to 11 miles, and the irregularity of its shores forms several bays, named Irish, English, Scotch, and Welsh pool, in all of which there is good anchorage, according to the draught of the ship, well sheltered from all winds. At about 3 miles within the sound is a small islet situated in mid*channe], named Langour or Chapman rook, close to the rocks surrounding which is a depth of 10 and 7 fathoms ; and in other parts of the sound are islets at various distances from the land. Welsh pool, in the 80uth*west comer of the sound, is probably dan* gerous for the greater part of its extent, as the natives report that it contains many banks of coral rocks, generally awash at low tide, but between and among which the bottom is of soft mud. The entrance to British sound is not more than \ a mile wide, as it is much con« tracted by Clarence island (Nossy Yolane), situated nearly in mid-channel, on the Routh side of which is the navigable channel, the passage north of it being filled up by a reef; in this navigable channel are soundings of 14 to 26 fathoms on a very irrejjular bottom. When entering it will be prudent to keep over to the south shore, as the French chart of the sound represents a reef extending a short distance south- ward from Clarence island. When in the sound and up with Chapman rock, a berth may be selected for anchoring.* Blaffo BnajreB Bay. — From Clarence island the coast immediately northward of British sound is fronted by a reef, on the edge of which are some islets, the south- ernmost bearing the name of Di^o, and that next to it to northward, Suarez. An inlet in this reef, 4 miles from Clarence island, is called Diego Suarez bay ; it has not been surveyed, nor is it known if its soundings are sufficient to accommodate vessels. Oap« Amber. — ^From British sound an indented coast succeeds to cape Amber, the north extremity of Madagascar, situated in Lat. IP 57' 3(y' S., and Long. 49° 19^ E. This cape is represented as comparatively low land, having some • Brltiih Sound it »sb«4 Dltgo Bttares bar bf the Frtneh, tad Xshas^a by the nalivti. la ths Frtttdi ohart, Ne. «A1, tbt aaUvt naoiN fcr its bsys art ^Tta^-tUili ( l%rsl«), lta||llsb < nneM j^bHtchti, tad Scotch ( r'bM). A considsnbto trade is carrted on betweta the soaad and ▲Mriaaaka •nd Ibolaa. when cstUs sff pleatilbl, ^.^.^.^^^ ^^ L^OOglC 8C0 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. rooky islets off it at a moderate distance, but connected to it by a reef. At a short distance from these islets are soundings of 15 fathoms, increasing rapidly to 25 fathoms, soon after which is no bottom at 100 fathoms. The depth at a short distance from the coast between British sound and the cape is 18 to 20 fathoms * A conspicuous object, when making this part of Madagascar from northward or eastward, is the lofty Amber mountain, in Lat. 12^ 35' S., and Long. 49^ 11' £., or 23 miles south* westward from the entrance to British sound ; it is a r^ular, sloping mountain, extending several miles north and south, and visible many miles at son. Another mountain, Windsor Castle, between the head of British sound and the western coast of Madagascar, of less elevation than mount Amber, is also an impor- tant landmark ; between Windsor Castle and the cape are also several oonioal hills, which gradually decrease in height as they advance northward. CARGADOS CARAJOS. This is a reef 31^ miles long, the south end of which is in about Lat. 16^ SC S., and Long. 59° 34' £., whence it extends in a crescent form in a N.N.E.-ly direction. Its eastern side formed no portion of the survey by Sib Edwasd Belches, and all that is known of that part of it is derived from a sketch by Libutknant MuDOB, in 1825, who paused through the reef from westward by means of boatr, as no vessel could venture to approach it. There is said to be a good port on this side of the reef for small vessels, the entrance to which is in Lat. 16° 30^ S., but during the eastern trade-winds it is unapproachable. At its south end there is a small island, named Coco, from some cocoa trees growing upon it. In nearly its centre there are two islets, Avocare and Mapare, of which the latter is just within the eastern edge of the reef; and at its north end there is a small island named Establishment island, where a few fishermen from Mauritius reside during the fishing season. Some parts of it become dry at low tide; these are mainly in the middle, and in the southern parts of the reef. The above remarks apply only to the main body of the Cai'gados Cangos reef, but there are several detached islets and patches of reef off its western and northern sides, which with the reef itself occupy a rpnce extending from Lat. 16° 50' S., and Long. 69° 34' E., to Lat. 16° 15' S., and Long. 59° 40i' E., the latter being tho position of an islet (the northernmost of the group) named Albatross. This island is distant 10^ miles North from the north end' of the main reef, from] which it is separated by soundings of 15 to 12 fathoms. North island lies 2} miles N.E. i £. from the north end of the reef, and at 2i miles on the same beiiring from North island, there is probably a reef, breakers having been seen in that direction. A reef also lies 1 mile due South from North island, with Establishment island bearing S.W. i W. distant 3 miles. It is impossible, by any written description, to convey an adequate idea of the * Tlie msster of the JElpMiutone sftys: ** Cape Amber is a low level point, aud cannot be se«n more than ft leagoes fh>m an Indiaman*8 poop, bot about S miles touthward of it the land rises to a moderate height ; ships making the land hereabout late in the day should pay attention to thi« circumstance, as this land may be mistaken for the cape itself, which might occasion ships not to give it a sQlRoient berth if bound to the westward. There are some rocks eastward of the cape, upon which the sea breaks very high, and there in a very strong ripplinsr ofiTthe pitch of the cape. The current experienced in the day on which we passed cape Amber wa« W.N.W. S2 miles.*" Digitized by LjOOQIC CARGADOS CARAJOS. 561 Cargados Carajos roeftt ; reference should, therefore, be made to the chart of them.* Let it suffice, therefore, to say that there is anchorage under the west side of Establishment island in 8 to 12 fathoms, and that vessels may also anchor on the west side of the south end of the reef in 13 to 13 fathoms on sand (the depth here must, on no account, be decreased to less than 11 fathoms) ; protection from the eastward being famished, in both instances, by the main body of the reef. The bank of soundingps upon which the Cargados Carajos reefs are based extends from them in a N.N.E. direction to a distance of probably 20 miles ; that shown on the chart extends from them about 15 miles to the westward and northward, deepening gradually to 32 fathoms at this limit; its actual extent is unknown. The eastern edge of the main reef is steep, and believed to have a depth of not less than 32 to 34 fathoms within a quarter or half a mile of it. But little, if any, fresh water can be procured from the islets of the Cargados Carajos, and that only of very inferior quality. ^Ib. Henby Davby, R.N., has described the Cargados Carajos as follows :— ** Immediately in the track of vessels from the Mauritius to India are the group of reefs named Cargados Carjijos. The south end of this group bears from Cannonier's point, Mauritius, N.E. by N. about 220 miles ; it is, therefore, necessary that the track should be well to the southward to effect the windward passage. The current generally runs to the N.W., directly on the islands at the mte of from 1 to 2^ miles per hour ; and should night intervene while yet to the southwai*d, it would be extremely hazardous to attempt to pass to windward. Indeed, in all cases it is advisable to avoid crossing the parallel of these dangers during the night, which can be easily avoided by regulating the time of sailing from port Louis. " In H.M.S. Hifacinlh, we sailed from port Louis, atlh. p.m. of 13th August, 1833, and keeping a good full to the Trade, which was from E.^E. to E., just fetched the south island sufficiently early on the morning of the 15th to enable us to get sights for the chronometers ; wo also got a noon observation for the latitude ; these gave, for the Latitude of south extreme, 16° 53' S., and Longitude 2F^ E. of llag- stafT on Tonuelier island, port Louis.f " The morning was fiue and clear, with a moderate breeze ; and when land was re- ported, the only objects visible were the tops of four cocoa-nut trees, the wreck of a ship, and broken water to the N.E. as far as the eye could reach ; we were distant at thin time from the nearest broken water, which was the very south extreme, cer- tainly not more than 10 miles, which may be considered a sufficient reason for avoiding this dangerous vicinity by night. We were quickly up with the south point, and ran under the lee of the island to the anchorage abreast the cocoa- nut trees, where we hove to, and despatched a boat to examine the wreck ; from the south point to the anchorage the shore may be approached to within half a mile in 9 fathoms water. The south or main island is of sand, very low, and almost desti- tute of verdure, nearly 9 leagues in length, in a N.E. by N. direction, and is inter- sected by several boat-channels, which are mostly dry at low water. The island on • 8ee the «nrvcy of the reef by Capt. Sir Edward Belcheb, R.N., 184G ; published by the Admiralty (No. 1881). t The llagstaff on Tonnclier island is nearly a mile westward of the Obserratory, Port Louis, which is considered to be in Long. 67° 2D' 30" E. ; hence, according to Mn. Davev. the longitude of the south end of the Cargados Carajos is about 59° 28' 80" £., which places the reef 5^ mllea westward of the poaition determined by Sib Edward BELcnsR, il.N. Q Q Digitized by VjOOQIC 562 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. the windwu'd side is fronted by a broad coral reef, over which the sea breaks with great force, presenting a continued line of heavy breakers reaching to the most distant verge of the horizon. Like most other coral reefs, it is remarkably steep; the lead is therefore of little use, and a vessel once within the influence of this terrific danger is without hope. Between the reef and the island is a lagoon of shoal water, about three miles in length ; close to this, at the distance of two or three miles from the south point, was the wreck before-mentioned. She was a vessel apparently of about 600 tons, had evidently run on the rocks during the night, and most probably was a wreck as soon as danger became known ; she was well up on the reef, with her bottom out, and her anchors at the bow with cables bent. The cables were of coir, from which circumstance, together with her not having any name on her stern, it may be inferred that she was an Arab vessel. " At Ih. F.V., we made sail from the anchorage, and had to keep away to pass westward of the Baleine shoal ; this shoal always shows itself by the swell or sea breaking on it; we passed about a quarter of a mile outside of it, and hauled up for Frigate island, this we passed at a moderate distance, as well as Pearl island, from which we hauled to the Trade, but passed far to leeward of Albatross island. These islands, which are not high, bound the main island to the N.W. and N., tlie whole being situated at the south end of an extensive bank, on which we sounded during the night, in 20 to 50 fathoms ; and on the following noon, in Lat 13^ 20^ S., Long. 61° 30' E., had 85 fathoms ; the soundings were on coral, sand, and shell. Supposing the last cast (85 fathoms) to have been on the edge of the bank, it will give a distance of 80 leagues N.E. by N. from the south point of the main isknd, and 68 leagues for the extent of the bank to the N.E. of Albatross island." NAZAEETH BANK. Soundings of 16 to 37 fathoms have been obtained on a bank situated 60 to 180 miles north-eastward from the Cargados Carajos reefs. This bank is frequently crossed by vessels from the Seychelles and India bound to Mauritius. It is believed that there are no dangers on it, and that the least depth of water is as mentioned, 16 fathoms. It has not been examined, and its extent is therefore uncertain, but its southern part is considered to be in Lat. 15^ 21' S., Long. 60° 21' E. ; its eastern part in Lat 14° SO' S., Long. 61° 36' E. ; and ite northern part in Lat. 13° 3a S., Long. 60° 61' E. ; — its western limit is unknown. Captain P. Mobesby, R.N.,* says : — "Nazareth bank is separated by deep water from the Cargados Carajos reefs, but the extent of the deep sea I have not been able to ascertain ; it must, however, be narrow. The colour of the water indicates when a ship is between the banks. Between this bank and that of the Saya de Malha the current sets to the westward with great rapidity. I have passed it on the meridian of 57° 30' E. to 59° 10' E. several times, and at all seasons of the year, experiencing a westerly current of from 25 to 50 miles in the 24 hours, when on the succeeding and preceding days after passing the parallel of deep water between the banks we had the usual westerly current of from 10 to 20 miles in the day." * N.B.— Oaft. F. M0REBBr*8 lonaritodes depend on Port Louis belnff 57° 3S' E., and Unite (Seychelles) C5° 82' 34" E. i both of which are within 3' of more recent determlnatloni i thie oor- rvotioB, however, cannot well be applied to the respective longitudes of the different iilands, ae they are a mean between chronometrie and lunar observations. Digitized by VjOOQIC 10 do. „ -I oo Aai UQO • SATA DE MALHA BANE. 668 SAYA DE MALHA BANK. The Saya de Malha bank commences in Lat ll"" 39^ S., Long. 6^ 54' £., and continues in a north-westerly direction, somewhat in the form of the letter S as* far as Lat. 8° 4Cy S., Long. 60^ E. It is narrow in width, and has soundings upon it of from 26 to 9 fathoms. Its eastern edge is very steep, there being no bottom, sounding in 175 fathoms, at only a short distance from it ; — its extent in a westerly' direction is unknown, as the surveyors did not prolong their examination so far as the 100 fathoms line. In Hobsbuboh's East India Directory, 1864, it is stated that '' various ships which have crossed the bank and recorded their soundings, give them from 6} to 75 fathoms, according to their position on it. The following are the positions of some of the shoalcr parts of it : 6J fathoms in Lat. 9° 21' S., Long. 60° 14' E. ( 9^47' „ 61° 21' 6} to 8 do. „ ^ to „ to ( 9° SO' „ 61° 29' 7 to 10 do. „ 9° 3' „ 60° 43' 9 do. „ 8° 35' „ 59°68i 60° 32' lO' 10P30' „ 61° 50' 12 do. „ -^ 8° 30' „ 60° 0' 8° 19' „ 60° 0' '* Navigators are still left in a state of uncertainty as to whether any part of this bank is dangerous ; but as the Cornwallis had 7 fathoms, — the Northumberland 7 fathoms on another part, — the Preston only 6 J fathoms, coral rock, on a different part, — and the Colombo 6| fathoms on the eastern edge, — caution ought certainly to be used by those who happen to get near this bank ; more so, as a navigator of tho Mauritius states that there are dangers on its southern extremity, where a ship would be liable to strike on some of the coral patches; and the JSlize, French schooner, is said to have been in 4 fathoms, close t-o breakers on this part of the bank." Captain F. Mobbsbt, R.N., says : " It being now ascertained that on the north- west extremity of the Saya de Malha bank numbers of coral patches exist, between which there are no soundings, I am inclined to believe that off the north-west ex- tremity of the Saya de Malha bank it is precisely under water, what those coral islands which are scarcely elevated above water, now appear. At no distant time it is probable islands will rise similar to the sand-banks of Cargados Carnjos; the debris of coral, shells, and madrepore will form in the lagoons, which are encircled by reefs. There is in one place, as I have marked, only 3^ fathoms, and the next cast 30 or 40 fathoms. This is the case with all the reefs. I have seen islandd as it were forming the sand-bank, assuming in twenty-four hours a different shape, lometimes two feet above the level of high water, at others awash. A log of wood «r large branch of ooral broken by the violence of the ocean, and thrown on the sand gives these banks their first stability ^ from this moment they gradually become the ^posit of the ocean. First, the resort of turtle, next of birds, that bring th« seeds of o o 2 f 9° 45' " \ 8° 42' -r 6M ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. trees, and the firfit cocoa-nut that lodges is the germ from which in ten or fifteen yean the island will he covered. I directed an officer, whom I sent from the Seychelles in a Colonial schooner, to ascertain the north and south limits. The weather proving had, with a heavy breaking swell, he did not think it safe to heave-to hourly to sound. He struck ground first on the parallel of 8° SC S., Long. 60° IC/ E., 38 fathoms, sand, broken coral, and shells. Shortly alter, steering S.S.W. he had 10 and 11 fathoms, then no bottom with 45 fathoms ; the sea appeared to break to the north-west Thus he passed the Galebea rocks, and lost soundings off the western limits. Since that period I have inquin*d of every person whose veracity I could trust, and amongst those who are not to be doubted are the Rodouls. On the north-west extremity they found 3^ fathoms. The day was fine, and they sounded in 5, 6}, and 7 fathoms* This has been corroboi-ated to me by more than one. Lieut. Hay, in the Wizard, has sounded the Snya de Malha bank, particularly on the north-west extremity. The sonndings he found, with those I have before mentioned, and others given in Hobsbuboh's Directory, as marked in my chart, will, I think, place the Saya de Malha and the cond patches off the north-west extremity with great precision. " M. MoNDOB reports that he anchored on the Saya de Malha hank in 3^ £Bithoms, close to a small sandy island covered with birds. This is another instance of tlie power of fancy. It was nearly dark, and he left his anchorage before daylight, at the break of which he could not discover the island. Probably it was one of those field:) of spawn so frequently met with in these seas, having the appearance of sand> banks scarcely covered with water, over which myriads of birds are on the wing. The sea breaks in several places during violent weather. It therefore behoves large ships to navigate with the utmost caution, and choose a route clear of lurking dangers^ if it is in their power. " The edges of the Malha bank to the eastward and northward are steep, as are all the coral reefs in this Archipelago." TROMELIN ISLAND. This is a small pear-shaped island, the narrow end of which faces N.N.W., situated, according to Captain Owen, R.N., in Lat. 15° 63' 12" S., and Long. 54° 36' 27" E. It was discovered by the Diane in 1722, but appears to bear the name of Tromeliu from the master of the Diliqenie, who landed in 1770. and rescued the survivors of the crew of the Utile, which was wrecked upon it in 1761. It is a flat sandy island, 15 feet above the water, nearly one- third of a mile long from N.N.W. to S.S.E., and about two furlongs in width * From it a reef projects three-quarters of a mile to the S.S.E. It has not been surveyed, Captatn F. Mobesbt, R.N., says : " This island I sent a schooner to reconnoitre in September, 1821, a wreck having been seen upon it. Its Latitude is 15° 51' 45* S., Longitude (by chronometer rated at port Louis) 54° 33' 45" E., but by sun and inoon 54° 38' E. The island is very low and sterile, with a reef extending from the south point, and is about three-quarters of a mile in length; the north point appears to bo a steep sand-bank, up which the sea rolled a considerable distance. * Aeeordin^r to the sketoh of the itlond in the Admiralty Chart (No. 677) It appesn to b« 1^ milei kng and 9>10tha of a mile hroad. GALEQA AND FARQUHAR ISLANDS. 665 We kept the deep-sea lead constantly going, both on approaching it on the south- east and leaving it on the north-west, without guning bottom." GALEGA ISLAND. This island is about 11 miles long in a N.W. and S.E. dii^ection, and not moro than a mile broad. It is very low, and appears from a distance like two isknds, there being a gap in the middle through which the sea flows at high tide. A reef surrounds it, and there is almost always a heavy surf, rendering a landing difficult. When examined by H.]kl.S. Clorinde, in 1811, the north end was found to be in Lat. 10°20'S., Long. 66°37'E.; and the south end in Lat. l(f 31' S., Long. 56° 40' E. It has not been surveyed. Captain F. Moessby, R.N., says : ''Handed on the extreme north- west point on Augu.«»t 29th, 1822, and found its Latitude to be 10° 21' 30" S., and Long. 66° 32' E. I had not time to examine its south-east point, but I take it to extend far more eastward than its breadth would admit, as stated by UoBSBUsaH on the authority of Captain Bbiggs, H.M.S. C^orinearings fiY>m St. Pierre, where, on March 18th, the ibllowing day, I had excellent obserrations — ^rix.. Ill I^Qg. £0° 6^' £., aad as such I have indicated it on my chart. Water may be procuted by dif giag piU ; there it also a flahlBg MUbllshraent." Digitized by LjOOQIC ST. PIERRE AND PROVIDENCE ISLANDS. 567 Probably thin bank is not dangerous, as the ship appeared to pass over the shoalest part, by the water deepening all round, but there were not means of forming a cor- rect opinion of its extent. Daring the morning no appearance of shoal water or breakers could be discerned from the mast-head, but only ridges of strong ripplings at short distances from each other, in one of which the boat found the water much agitated, but no ground was got at 40 fathoms ; here the current was found setting strongly to N.E., and when out of the rippling it appeared to set weakly to N.N.W. While in soundings, the ship was surrounded by many sharks and rock cod, several of which we caught, and the bottom seemed to be white coral rocks in ridges, with apparently deep chasms between them ; but from the regularity of the soundings, this must have been occasioned by the various colours of the coral." ST. PIERBE ISLAND. This is a small island, having an extent of not more than H miles, situated, according to Captaih F. Mobbbby, R.N., in Lat. 9° 2(y S., and Long. 50P 54' B. by chronometer.* It is very low, and of peculiar form, being cavernous, through which the sea is thrown to a great height, giving it the appearance of whales blowing, when the island is first made. Its formation is different from the neighbouring islands, as it has a thin bed of soil resting on rock which i^ neither granite nor limestone. The anchorage for small vessels is close to the reef, the bank not extending a cable's length from it. It has not been surveyed. A reef is inserted in the Admiralty Chart, No. 677, in Lat. 9^ 12' S., and Long. 60° 51' £., or at about 8 miles north-westward from St. Pierre, and 20 miles west- ward from Providence island. The authority for placing it on the chart is M. Vailhbu, of the French ship-of-war, Madagascar, 1834. We possess no particulars of it. PROVIDENCE ISLAND. This small, low island has an extent of about 2 miles from North to South, and of only one-third of a mile from East to West. It is composed of sand and coral, or white madrepore, and has such a moderate elevation that at high water, equinoctial tides, the sea flows over it. Its north part is, or was, covered with cocoa-nut trees, and its south part with a spongy tree resembling the European fig-tree — this is straight, and 40 or 50 feet high, with joints like the bamboo, 6 feet from each other, and its fruit is not unlike small mangoes. Fresh water is abundant by dtggini^. Turtle, land-crabs, and rats are numerous. The anchorage is inside the island at half a mile from the shore, on uneven ground consisting of sand and gravel. According to Caftaik F. Mobssbt, R.N., the island bears E.N.E. (mag.) from St. Piem, distant 18 miles, and its north point is in Lat. 9° 10' S., and Long. 51'' 9^ E. by chronometer. It is high water on the days of full and change of the moon at dh. 30m. P.M. ; the rise of tide is 8 feet. Providence island is surrounded by a reef, the edges of which are said to be so steep that but little, if any, warning of its vicinity is given by the lead^ This reef is said t^^ extend 25 to 30 miles from the island in a S.S. W. direction, or as far as Lat. 9"" 35' S. and Long. 51° 3' E. In 1769, the French frigate L'Sewreuse was wrecked on the * By obaenratloos of the snn and moon in Long. iV W £.^Captaik F« Xoudt, BJ7. qIc 568 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. south part of this reef, and the commander reported that it had a breadth of about 2 leagues, and that it was wholly occupied with banks of sand and coral, several of which were above water ; so that at low tide it was scarcely passable by a canoe, nor even at high tide unless with great care. The crew escaped to a dry sand just within the edge of the reef, and eventually reached Providence island, whence by means of their boat they afterwards escaped to Madagascar. Providence island and reef have not been surveyed. 'Wlsard Breakers. — At about 20 miles N. by E. from Providence island, breakers were observed by Lieut. Hay, of the Wizard, in 1821. The position, according to the Admiralty Chart, No. 677, is Lat. 8° 5(y S., and Long. 5P 12' E. They have not been surveyed. St. Xiawrence.— This island, said to be in Lat. 9° 37' S., and Long. 50° 2(y E., is believed to have no existence, being in all probability only the dry sandbank at tlie south end of Providence reef, upon which the crew of the Heureuse were saved, or possibly even St. Pierre island. Captain F. Moresby, R.N., has remarked: — "In the neighbourhood of the Farquhar and Providence islands the currents set generally to the westward, their velo- city being accelerated by the winds. Strong ripplinga frequently occur; when we expe- rienced these, a change of current has sometimes taken place. I have seen the sur- iace of the ocean in light winds appear for a considerable space to be much agitated, and I at first thought it was occasioned by uneven ground and overfalls, but I oonld not obtain soundings; and by a- boat steadied with a pitch-kettle to 140 £athomsof line, could only observe a slight surface current. A pendant 3 fathoms below drew the contrary way, but not strong, or sufficiently so to cause the violent and partial agitation of the ocean. Should a stranger to these circumstances observe them in passing, it is more than probable he would report some undefined dangers." ALPHONSE, ST. FRANCIS, AND BIJOUTIER. This is a group of islands, the north point of the northern island of which (Alphonse island) is in liat. 6° 59' 30" S., and Long 52° 41' E. by chronometer, or 52° 45 J' E. by observations of sun and moon, according to Captain P. Mobbsby, R.N. His remarks are — " I rounded this point at a quarter of a mile from the reef, which oxtends half a mile from the point. The extreme southern point is fast rising into an island of greater extent than Alphonse. On March 15th, 1822, we were in lati- tude at noon 7° 14' 30" S., this island bearing East (true) from us, and the reef still further south, so that between Latitudes 6° 59' 30" S. and 7° 20' S. dangerous reeft nearly unite North and South Alphonse. There is a passage, but it is very intricaU and dangerous ; the currents are strong and uncertain. I remained off Alphoase turning turtle two days, and was obliged to carry sail to keep under the lee of the island, the currents setting strongly to the eastward." These islands are known as the Alphonse islands. They ai-e all low, and upon them are or were some trees and shrubs. South Alphonse is estimated to be about 12 miles southward from the northern island ; it is but little above the water, and is surrounded by a reef which causes heavy breakers, especially when the wind blows with strength. The reef upon which this group of islands is seated, like all the coral reefs in the Indian ocean, is very steep, cspecifilly on its eastern side, the lead consequently gives but little indication of its vicinity-. , ^ ^ ^ ■ ^ Digitized by VjOOQIc AMIRANTE ISLAND ". 569 The two southern of the Alphonse islands were named St. Francis and Bijontier by Captain Owen, B.N., who considered the centre of Alphonse island to be in Lat. rO'W S., and Long. 62° 47' 45" E. The Alphonse islands derive their name from the commander of the LySy who discovered them in 1730.* None of the islands have been surveyed. AMIRANTE ISLANDS. These islands are considered to be nine in number, but as they have not been sur* veyed, and according to M. Yailheu, the commander of the French ship-of-war Madagascar, in 1834, there is an additional island (Eling Boss) the number must be regarded as uncertain. The names of the known islands, reckoning from the northernmost, are African, Eagle, Daros, St. Joseph, Poivre, Etoile, Boches, Bor- deuse, Marie Louise, and Neuf. The islands scarcely differ from each other, being usually from 1^ to 2 miles long. Situated on coral reefs, the ddbris of which, and shells, have formed their first soil, their elevation does not exceed 20 feet ; they are crowned with trees {mapor wood), and various shrubs of a spongy nature that attain the height of 25 or 30 feet. Cocoa-nut trees are abundant. Water may generally be procured by sinking 12 or 15 feet. Fish and turtle are plentiful. As but very little is known of these islands, they should be avoided, especially by large vessels, the masters of which have no reason to visit them. The frequency of calms during several months, with the velocity and uncertain run of the currents, added to the want of good anchorage, makes it advisable not to approach them unless compelled by necessity. The seasons partake of the same changes as at the Seychelles, but the currents are more variable. Africaa.— This island (appearing as two when the tide is up) is situated in Lat. 4° 53' 30" S., and Long. 53*^ 33' E., according to Captain Owbn, B.N.t It is low, and of but small extent, its length being not more than 2 miles from North to South. Its peculiar appearance of two islands arises from its formation in two hummocks, joined together by a reef which is dry only at low water ; the southern portion is the larger. It is so little above the surface, probably not more than 4 feet, that it can be considered little better than a dry reef; at high water, spring- tides, the sea almost covers it. There is little, if any, vegetation except a few shrubs. It abounds with turtle and sea-fowl, and is destitute of fresh water. On August 25th, 1801, the armed tender Spitfire struck on the southern part of the reef sun-ounding African island, having only just previously sounded with 20 fathoms of line without getting bottom; the swell soon after drove her over the reef into a sort of sandy basin in the reef. The cast side of the island was described by the commander of that ship as " surrounded by breakers. On the west side of the island there is* a safe and commodious anchorage in a bay formed by the extremes of the islands, and the reefs which join them. We could find no fresh water, although we dug to the depth of 40 feet." This anchorage can be safe only during the S.E. Monsoon. * ** Alphonse island is 3 miles in length from north to south, and there are two low sandy islets 4 or 5 leagues southward from it, upon a reef several leagues in extent. There are no soundings at a mile from the shore."— CiMiiimmcfer** lieport qf JMteovery. t M. Tricault, of the French Imperial Navy, observed, in October, 1864, the position of the taorthernmost of the Aftican islands to be in Lat 4° 53' S. and Long. 53° 32' 9" £. (depending upon the meridian of St Denis, R^unlonX which closely corresponds with this determinatioii by Captain Owen, BJJ. Four trees were growing on the island in that year. . ^ ^ ^ , ^ Digitized by VjOOQ IC 570 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. A bank of 5 to 9 fathoms is said to extend 4 or 6 miles southward from African island ; and the Admiralty chart (No. 677) represents the channel between African and Eagle islands (8 to 10 miles wide), as free from danger, and with a depth of 18 to 22 fathoms ; although a reef has been reported to exist in nearly mid-channel at about 4 miles N.W. by N. from the latter island. The Mary is stated, in " Horsbubgh's Directory 1864," to have safely passed through this channel. Baffle. — This low, sandy island, about | of a mile across, is situated in Lat. b"" 8' S., and Long. 63^ 32' E. according to the Admiralty Chart (No. 677); but 63° 22' 30" E., following Captain P. Moeesby, R.N., 1821.* It is, or was, covered with shrubs, and is destitute of fresh water. At two or three miles from the north and east sides of Eagle island there are reefs, on which the sea breaks heavily, especially with the wind on shore. The channel between these reefs and the island, although said to have a depth of 9 to 14 fathoms, cannot be considered safe for a large vessel, in our imperfect knowledge of the hydrography of the island. This island is named Bemire by the French. A bank of 6 to 14 fathoms is represented on the Admiralty Chart as extending in a S. by W. direction from Eagle island, 16 miles towards Daros bland, approaching that island to within the distance of 4 miles. As a shoal spot of 12 feet is inserted at the extremity of this bank, the passage between the islands must be regarded as dangerous to strangers. Lisutbkant Hat, B.N., is reported to have had 4J fathoms in 1821, on rocky bottom, at 12 miles N. by W. from Daros island, which would be in nearly mid-channel, whence he steered N.W. 3 miles, and was off the bank. Daros.— A small, low, sandy island, in Lat. 5° 27' S., and about Long. 53^27'£.» which, like the other islands, is surrounded by a reef. Between it and the reef, extending westward from St. Joseph island, there is a narrow but dangerous channel, having probably a depth of about 12 fathoms. St. Joseplu— At 6 or 6 miles E.S.E. from Daros is St. Joseph, another small, low island, surrounded by a reef. Its position, according to Capt. F. Mobesby, B.N., is Lat. 5° 29^ S., and Long. 63° 29' E. ; Lieutenant Bussell, B.N., observed the Lat. 6° 26' S., and the longitude con-esponded to Capt. P. Moresby's. Polvr©.— Situated in Lat. 6° 43' S., and Long. 63° 21' E. This low, sandy islet has a small islet off its south-east point, and together they occupy an extent of less than a mile. The reef upon which they are seated extends from them some distunce, and we believe has a depth of not less than 8 fathoms close to its edge. When steering northward from Poivre island, a good look-out must be maintained for a small reef dry at low water, situated 4 to 8 miles N. by W. from the island. Generally it shows itself by breakers. Its position is uncertain. fttoUe. — ^At about 14 miles in a W.S.W. direction from Poivre island is Etoile island, low and sandy, and covered with bushes. It is about half a mile in extent, and the reef upon which it is seated projects from it southward about a mile. Its position is estimated to be Lat. 5° 60' S., and Long. 53° 8' E. ; Captaik F. Moresby, B.N., considers its LaUtude to be 5° 67' S. According to M. Jehenne, of the French ship Privoyanie, Etoile island has an extent of not more than half a mile, and is only about 8 feet high, being little else than a dry coral reef. It is bare of verdure, with the exception of a few marine • LXEOT. fiussELX., fi.N., 1830, otwervcd the Longitude 53° 91' E. Digitized by LjOOQIC AMIRANTE ISLANDS. 571 plants. Its formation appears to be white sand on coral. A bank of soundings surrounds it on all sides, apparently to the distance of 1^ or 2 miles, upon which, with the island bearing N.£., the depth is 8 to 10 fathoms ; this bank is thickly strewn with coral patches, upon which the soundings are probably less. In a N.N.W. direction from Etoile island (distance not stated) there is a bank upon which the sea breaks. And, according to M. Yailhbtt, of the French shi()-of- war Madagascar, 1834, there ia an island, which he named King Ross, situated about 15 miles W.S. W. from Etoile, in Lat. 5° 57' S., and Long. 52° 56' E. ftoolies.—This island is in Lat. 5"" 4(y 15" S., and Long. 53"" 42' E., being distant about 18 miles* east from Poivre and 12 miles south from St. Joseph. It is low and sandy, about 3^ miles long in an east and west direction, and very narrow. On its north and south sides there is anchorage, which may be taken according to the prevailing wind. A reef surrounds it, and stretches from its eastern end about 8 miles towards the N.E., and from its western end about 4 miles to the S.W. M. D'Afb^s db Mankbyillbttb says : " The eastern edge of the reef of Roches island extends north and south about 7 miles, and the south edge of it (running along the south coast of the island, and at half a league westward of its south-west point) W. by S. and E. by N. about 11 miles." In Uobsbuboh's Directory it is stated that " the island has a bank extending around it about four leagues to the north or N.W., and two leagues to the east, with only 2^ fathoms on it in this part, and mostly from 5 to 13 fathoms to the N.W. ; but in a southerly direction the bank extends only a short distance from the island." * Boraeiise. — According to M. Jbhbnnb, this island is in Lat. 6^ 5' 33" S., and Long. 52° 56' 47" E., the latter depending upon the correctness of the longitude assigned to Etoile island.f It is not more than one-third of a mile in extent, and has suck moderate elevation that the sea in I'ough weather almost flows over it ; there are, consequently, no trees upon it, but only a few small shrubs. From its west side a reef extends two-thirds of a mile, and another reef rims out from its east side 100 to 150 feet. The bank upon which the island is seated lies in an East to E.N.E. direction, is about 2 miles in extent, and has a depth over it of 8^ to 13 fathoms, sand and coral. AccoiHliug to M. Yailhbu, there is a reef of 1^ fathoms at about 7 miles N.N.E. from Roches island, and also a reef at about 5 miles S.W. from the island. Marte abonisc—This small sandy island is in Lat. 6^ 12^ S. and Long. 58° 18' E. It is possibly 1^ miles in diameter, and is surrounded by a reef, on which, at two mUes westward from the island, there is a depth of 3f fathoms. In the channel (about seven miles wide) between this island and Neuf there is a depth of 12, 15, and 17 fathoms;!^ CAFTAlir Mobbsbt, R.N., passed through this channel in 1821, and on a N.E. course for three miles had regular soundings of 17 fathoms. Veuf« the southernmost of the Amirante islands, is in Lat. 6° 13' 15" S. and Long. 53° 12' 15" E. Its formation is similar to that of the other islands, but it is perhaps smaller. It is or was covered with wood> and is seated on a coral reeL * Captain F. Mobesbt, R;N'., says 22 miles. t In the Admiralty Chart (No; 677) it is placed in Lat. 6*> 12' S., and Long; 52*^ 56' £., on the authority of M. YailUeu, of the French ship Mddagaacar. M. JEHSvyE does not give the longi- tude of £ti»Ue UStid. i M. Du Eosi*Aif, 1770, lays, 85 to 30 fathoms, and that soondings are Itet at a UtUe south- ward of the channel. Digitized by LjOOQIC 572 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. M. DU RosLJLBr states that he had soundings of 9 to 15 fathoms, rocky bottom, within a league of its south side. Of Neuf, Marie Louise, and Bordeuse, it may be remarked that they are of sand crowned with trees, and environed, except a few small openings, by coral reefs. Seals of a large size resort to them. There is anchorage in some phices amidst these islands ; but it is advisable to use only a chain cable, the ground being rocky. The white sandy bottom can generally be distinguished from the coral patches, while in a depth of from 12 to 15 fathoms, FORTUNE BANK. This bank of soundings, according to the Admiralty Chart (No. 677), is situated in Lat. 7° 16' S. and Long. 57° W E. It was discovered on May 31st, 1770, by Captain Compton, of the VereUt ; and on 14th September, 1771, soundings were again obtained upon it by M. dk Kbbguelen of the Fortune, who attached the name of his vessel to it, believing that it had been till tlien unknown ; this name it still bears on the charts. In 1861 Commandeb De Ughsey, of H.M.S. Brisk, passed eastward of its assigned position, and obtained no bottom with a line of 50 and 49 fathoms. It has not been surveyed ; its extent, soundings, and position arc consequently uncertain. The following reports contain all that is known of the bank :— Captain Compton says, " On the 30th May, 1770, 1 was in Lat. 7® 24' S., and Long., east from St. Mary's island, Madagascar, 7^ 44'. I supposed that we were on a bank, but did not sound till at about a quarter before Ih. p.m., when we had 15 fathoms, coral rocks, then 14 fathoms for several casts. It was very fine weather, and I could not see the least appearance of shoals or breakers from the mast head ; the water was very smooth. I then steered N.E. \ E., which wad almost close to the wind, going about 4 knots ; by a quarter past Ih. p.u., we had shoaled to 12 fathoms, and continued that depth till 2h. p.u., when we deepened to 14 fathoms for a few casts, and shoaled again to 12 fathoms. From 2h. 30m. till 3h. P.M., we had very regular soundings of 11 fathoms, then for half an hour regular soundings of 10} fathoms, when we lost bottom, as we could get no soundings as fast as we could pass the line along, sounding 20, 50, and 100 fathoms. Though the north-east edge be steep, we supposed the south-west part to shoalen gradually as the water was observed to be discoloui-cd so early as at 8h. and also at lOh. a.m. the preceding day. Immediately afler losing soundings the water returned to its proper colour, and also the usual swell. All the time we were in soundings we had great numbers of ground sharks. The north-east end of the shoal we found to be in Lat. r IV S., and Long. 7^ 54' east from St. Mary's island."* M. Be Kerguelen says, " On leaving Mauritius, September 13th, 1771, 1 made my course, corrected North, to traverse the archipelago northward of the island ; in the night between the 18th and 19th, at about Ih. a.m., there was a violent squall of rain and wind, with thunder and lightning; at llh. p.m. we had no ground, but on sounding during the squall we found only 30 fathoms, and had on the next cast only 19 fathoms, rocky ground. I stood on the other tack under a foresail till I had got The sooth point of St Mary's island, Madagascar, has recently (18G4) been determined to b« ' tn St* Mar/'i, the LongiU Digitized by LjOOQIC in about Long. 49" 54' £. ; hence, with the meridian distance from St« Mar/'i, the Longitude will be a^ut 57^ 4s' E., according to Capt. Comftok^s observation. FORTUNE BANK. 573 my anchor ready, and shoalened the water to 17, 15, and 14 fathoms, sand, when, being apprehensive of driving upon some sand-bank, I anchored, and veered out 100 fathoms of cable ; the ship brought up and rode fast daring the squall, which lasted till 2h. A.if, I continued at anchor all night, and we were surrounded at that time with sharks, of which we caught about fifty, and with a prodigious number of crabs, with which the sea was covered ; the multitude of sharks about us made the sea luminous as breakers. At length day came and relieved our uneasiness, when we Haw neither land nor rock. On weighing anchor I let the vessel drive, and continued sounding for a long time; I had 14, then 20, 25, and 28 fathoms, and then at once no ground. The bank lies N.W. and S.E., and is in Lat. 7^ 16' S., and Long. 58° 10' E."» The Sural Castle crossed the bank from the southward, on the 22nd of February, 1780. The longitude by lunar observations was found to be 57° 38' £. The first cast of the lead was 15 fathoms, whence in the ruu over the bank they were irregular, being from 15 to 10 fathoms, the latter being the least depth found. There was an appearance of breakers on the western edge of the bank. The bottom consisted of coral rocks and coloured shells, and there were large white spots towards the north end of it, and many ripplings around it. In 1817 the Sir Stephen Lushington struck soundings upon Fortune bank, and for a distance of 7 miles obtained bottom in 10 to 12 fathoms, steering at the time due East ; coral rock and sand were plainly visible under the ship, and as far as could be discerned from the mast-head to the northward and southward. At noon the depth was 38 fathoms, and soon after soundings were lost. The Latitude was found to be 7° 7' S., and the meridian distance eastward from Coetivy island, by chronometer, was 31', which, supposing the longitude of the island, as determined by M. Tbicault (see p. 574), to be correct, places the bank in 56° 53' E. ; this differs only 3' from the determination of M. Baidet, and but 4^ from the result arrived at by Captain Innes. Captain J. Innes, of the Ahercromhie Rohinson, in April j 1830, reported that he carried regular soundings of 10 to 17 fathoms for a distance of 5 or 6 miles over what he supposed to be the north-west edge of Fortune bank, steering at the time N. by E. The latitude was found to be 7° 6' S., and longitude by lunar observations 50° 31' E. ; but by chronometers, 56° 49' 30" E. M. Bbidst, of the French ship Nlsus, a lieutenant in the Imperial Navy, obtained soundings on the bank in 1857, and reported its centre to be in Lat. 7° 6' 45" S., and Long. 56° 56' E., and that its extent was only 3^ milesf from North to South. The depth was not stated, nor were any further particulars furnished. Captain F. Moeesbt, B.N., says : " Fortune bank lies due East from Coetivy 14 leagues. The least water that has been found by the small vessels which frequent the Seychelles is 9 iathoms i they describe it as having the same extent North and South as Coetivy and the southern sand-banks, and from three to four leagues broad. Between the bank and Coetivy there is no bottom at 100 fathoms." To the above it may be added, that Captain Taylob, of the ship Simlah, when • This longitude Sg rc>)eoted by Dalrtmple, who (in a foot-note) tayi— *• IL D*Afrx8 places it in Lst f 80' S. ) In Long. 64^ iB' E. from Paris (equivalent to sT" 8' £. t IC D'Apbss ooDildeKd tbe extent of tbt bMk to be I leagiei. j OOQ LC 674 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. at Coeiivy island in 1848, was. informed by a resident on the island that the depth on the north end of Fortune bank is only 2 fathoms. COETIVY ISLAND. This small sandy island was discovered by M. de Coetiyy in 1771. It is situated in about Lat 7° KX 66" S., and Long. 56*^ 19* E, • according to the observations of Mb. Russell, B.N., of H.M.S. Topaze^ who visited it in 1820, and from whose published plan it appears to be not more than 3f miles long from E.N.E. to W.S.W., and about half a mile broad ; on this plan of the island is also shown a reef, partially dry at low water, extending 2\ miles in a westerly direction from its west end, and another reef 1^ miles easterly from its east end. The island has not been surveyed ; our information respecting it is therefore necessarily imperfect. When discovered in 1771 it appeared (viewing it from a distance of about 6 miles), to be covered with trees, excepting its south side, which was bare. Captain P. Moresbt, R.N., says : — " Coetivy island is low and sandy, and has an extent from S.W. by S. to N.E. by N. of about 7a miles. Off the north and north- west points, in the South-east Monsoon, there is good anchorage in from 7 to 17 fathoms on a bank of sand extending half a mile from the shore. Water may be procured close to this anchorage. We found turtle in abundance. The reef extends far to the southward." Mb. Taylob, of the ship Simlah, 1848, reports : — " Being in want of water I anchored off the small island of Coetivy in 5^ fathoms, with the large tope of cocoa- nut trees directly over the flagstaff, bearing E. ^ N. ; north extreme of the island N.E. I N. and south extreme S.S.W., and found good water close to the anchorage. From the south-west point of the island a coral reef extends, as I was told by a person residing on the island, 9 miles, on which the sea constantly breaks ; it cer- tainly broke as fai* as the eye could reach from the poop of the ship. From the north end of the island there extends a reef about 2} miles, on which tlie sea breaks when there is any swell. " In the event of a shipmaster wishing to anchor at Coetivy I would recommend his rounding the island at the north point, at 3 miles distance m the Cape of Good Hope (supposed at that time to be in Long. 18° 38' 8G" E., but aubsequently determined to be in Lonff. 18° 98' 45" £.). it will be necessary to add 5' 9". which will make it 55'' 84' 36" £. This point of St. Anne island is three miles eastward from the town ; hence by these observations the latter will be in longitude about 65° 33' £., a result diflnering but Httle from the longitude pre- viottdy given. t See an Interertlng arUde on the Seychelles in the " Nautical Magaadne," 1889, by G. Har- Digitized by LjOOQ IC Digitized by Google [StYCHELLES] PORT VXCT®SIA J, .L -s^ ioncow, James Imtar SEYCHELLES ARCHIPELA.OO. 677 facnlity of oommunication, which neither Reunion nor Maarltius posflesBes ; and should it ever become an object to watch the Mozambique channel, or look to the Portug^uene or Imaum of Muscat's possessions, Mah^ is the place where a squadron would be within a few days' sail, where water and refreshments are easily attainable, and where, during the hun-icane months on the coast of Madagascar, or the unhealthy months on the African side, the finest season prevails.'* Mabo.— This island is about 16 miles long in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, and 6 miles broad in its widest part — Uie north end. It is of very irregular shape and nearly 2000 feet high, with lofty, jutting, perpendicular, cliffy peaks,, intersected freely by ravines, and plentifully supplied therefrom by water. It is crowned with wood, and may generally be seen from the distance of 36 or 40 miles. The soil is reddish, consisting principally of a decomposed granite, well adapted for vegetable production, and well watei*ed by the streams, natural as well as artificial, from the ravines. On the west side of the island there are two islets close to the shore, named Therese and Conception, of which the latter is the westernmost ; and according to the chart of Captain Owen, there is also a reef at a short distance from its south ]X)int. During the S.E. Monsoon there is good anchorage on the west side of Mahd, but heavy gusts come from the high land at a time when the winds are moderate and steady on the east side of the island. POAT VXOTOBIA is situated on the east side of Mahd, and is formed by a group of islets 1-J- to 3 miles from shore, the two largest of which are named St. Anne and Cerf ; the former is most to the north, and it is immediately westward of this islet that vessels anchor. The town is at the entrance to a valley formed by a chain of high mountains, bristling with rugged rocks, and surmounted by large trees; the most elevated of this range of mountains is termed Morne Blanc. The houses ai'e built entirely of wood ; they consist solely of a ground floor, and are generally sur- rounded by fruit-trees within a palisade.* In the roadstead there is accommo- dation for thirty or forty vessels, but there is not sufficient room to allow all these to select their berths. The port and roadstead of Mah6 were surveyed in 1825 by Captain Owen, R.N., and again in 1846 by MM. Clou£ and Leblanc, of the French ship B^rceaUi Prom these surveys it appears that the coast of Mah^ is bordered by a coral reef, which extends out so much as a mile in some places, and that there are three islets on this reef in the vicinity of point Bue (the east point of the island, which forms the south side of the South-east channel to the roadstead) ; these islets are named Anonyme, Brulee, and Southeast; the latter, which is also the largest, is close to the shorcf Opposite the town there is a channel through the reef in a South-west direction to the shore, having a depth of 12 to 5 fathoms ; this channel is called the Inner roadstead. • Capt. F. Koresbt. R.N., wrote In 1821 :— " Hah^ is withoat fortifications, and easy to defend, firom its precipitoas hills and deep ravines; nor could ships approach suffluiently near the town to fire effectually withoat entering the port, which is narrow and intricate. The trade is carried on in a tew small schooners to Mauritius, oxjiorting cotton, cocoa*nut oil, tortoise-sheli#, &c. Tlie language of the country is French." t These islets must be very carefully approached, a sunlien rock having been rcportoi to be situated at about half a mile eastward from Itralde, the smallest islet. In tlie Admiralty Chrrt (No. 721) a rock named Azof Is inserted at about a mile northward of this isUt* — possibly ii i. the lam. rock. ^.g.,.^^^ by L:iOOQ IC P p o 678 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. The islands forming the esst side of the outer roadstead are snnoanded by a coral reef, which connects them more or less together. St. Anne, the largest island, is separated from the others by a narrow channel of 4 to 6 &thoms. The oater roadstead has a depth of 8 to 10 fathoms on ground good for holding, but there are several coral patches of less than 4 fathoms scattered about, which it in necessary to carefully avoid. The shelter is from all winds but those which come from northward. The best anchoi-age is said to be in 8 to 13 fathoms, sand, with the centre of St. Anne island bearing east, distant three-quarters of a mile, and the town of Mah^ W.S.W. The approach to this anchorage is round the north end of St. Anne, the S.E. channel (between Cerf island and the shore) being intricate and dangerous. In the inner roadstead the bottom is of white sand, good for holding. If of less than 18 feet draught vessels may run into this raadstead from the outer roadstead by keeping open an avenue of trees situated a little to the left of the city, — which avenue will be immediately recognised as it rises at once from Uie sea, and has a house at its termination. Strangers require a pilot. Captain F. Mokesbt, R.N., says: — '* It. seldom blows fresh at this roadstead, and never hard. In the S.E. Monsoon, heavy gusts come from the land, in which the wind varies. In this season ships may conveniently lie between St. Anne and Moyenne islands."* Mah^ was visited by Captain Sib E. Belches, K.N., in 1842, who reported as follows :— " Owing to the transparency of the water, all absolute dangers are visible, and the port or inner harbour may be safely resorted to, where vessels intending to remain any time will find the water smoother and without that swell which renders the outer anchorage (by reason of a heavy ground swell constantly turning in) very unpleasant. We also found the anchorage near St. Anne's rocky, but the pipeclay between the rocks holds well. I would advise any vessel anchoring near that island to run out the stream-anchor astern in the direction of the swell ; otherwise, upon any sudden flaw off shore during the night, she may be subjected to a sudden fit of rolling before it can be remedied ; and hedges at that moment are liable to ii\jare men as well as boats. " Although situated so near the equator, the Seychelles do not experience a high temperature ; the range is very limited, and the only atmospheric changes which are remarked are the N. W. Monsoons, or gales accompanied by lightning and heavy rains. The huiTicanes of Mauritius rarely reach these limits. The two Monsoons, S.E. and N.W., observe nearly the same periods and character as those of Hindostan. The S.E. Monsoon, or dry season, commences in April and terminates in November. The N.W. Monsoon, or rainy season, commences in November and terminates in March. Sometimes, however, the breezes from the south-east die away, and are succeeded by variables, accompanied by rain, but never of long duration." SUbonette and MTortli Zalanda. — At 11 miles from the west point of Mahe inland, in a N.N. W. direction, is the south end of a high round island, 3 miles acrosa, named Silhouette ; and at nearly 4 miles northward of this is North island, also lofty, but of umaller extent. Silhouette is considered to be the most elevated of the Sey- chelles ; it has or had upon it an abundance of timber. It is difficult to land on both these iblands. Digitized by ••N.W. MOHK L^oogie SEYCHELLES AECHIPELAQO. 579 la the passage between Silhouette and North islands, t\» shoalest water is about 14 fathoms, and in that between the islands and Mah^ about 30 fathoms. VntaUa. — This island is distant from Mah^ about 23 miles in a north-easterly direction. iU west point being in Lat. 4° 17' 24" S., and Long. 56° 44' 9" E. It is very irregular in outline, and of about the same height as Mah^, but it is not inter- sected by so many deep ravines. The anchorage is on the northoeast side of the island, under an islet named Curieuse, which protects it from northerly winds. Onrleiue is about a miie in extent and of moderate elevation compared with Praslin ; its shores are bold, except that which faces the south-east. The anchorage is in the channel formed by this islet and Praslin, and is sufficiently commodious to acoom< modate a number of vessels, which can ride here at all seasons of the year ; the depth is 4 to 10 fathoms. When at anchor under Curieuso islet, if in a large ship, it will be necessary to avoid a 4 -fathoms coral patch lying about half a mile from its south-east shore. From this patch a detaohed rock off the south-east end of Carieuse is said to bear N. by W., and St. Pierre islet S.S.B. i E. Oaaffen between Mabe and VnuUin. — At about four miles northward from the anchorage at Mah6 are two rocks, named Bbisans (or the Breakers), which bear from each other S.E. i B., and N.W. ^ W. At three-quarters of a mile N. by W. from the northern Brisans there is a small coral patch of 6 fathoms. The Mahmblles, 40 feet high, is distant 4^ miles N.E. } £. from the Brisans, and 16 miles W.S.VV. from the south-east end of Praslin ; between it and the Brisans the ground is uneven, as from 7 fathoms the lead will drop into 13 and 16 futhoms. At a musket-shot from the Mammelles there is a rock, 6 feet under the surface, upon which the sea generally breaks, but in calm still weather it is difficult to be seen ; — a sunken rock also lies at two ships' length from the north end of the Mammelles. Half way between the Mammelles and Praslin are the Madoe rooks, two dangerous rocks covered at higli tide, distant from each other between two and three cables* length N.E. and S.W. ; — in the South-east Monsoon the sea generally breaks high upon them ; but to Captain F. Moeesbt, R.N., who passed them in 1821 within two cables* length, the southernmost appeared now and then above water, and the position of the northernmost was only indicated by the reflux of the sea ;— the marks for these rocks are the highest point of St. Anne in one with the Mammelles ; the south . point of La Digue E. ; and Silhouette W. } S. The Tbompeusb, a bed of rocks, £. by N. i N., 3 miles from the Madge rocks, has obtained the name {trompmue — deceitful), from having been frequently taken for the Madge rocks. North-eastward from Trompease are two islets nimed the Cons ins, and the channel between is said to be so full of rocks that a vessel cannot pass in safety ; but between the Cousins there is a safe channel, and also between the North Cousin and the reef extending from Praslin. The Baleine or Whale rocks are said to lie at about 2^ miles N. } W. from the North Cousin, with Miller's point, the west end of Praslin (near whkh is a sunken rook) bearing E. \ S. 1^ mile ; Booby islet N.E. by N. 2^ miles ; and the highest part of Aride islet N. | E. 6 miles. Captain F. Mobbsbt says : — " The Baleine is a small dangerous rock, covered at high tides. I loaght for this rook, but not having any decisive marks eonld not find it i it is, however, frequently seen, and generally awash at half- tide. W.N. W. from the Nerth Cousin there is a ooral patch half a mile distant, having 2^, 3, and 4 fathoms upon it. I passed between this patch and the Baleine, 8j^^ei^^s|^|r^^^^)p^ 580 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. islet, aud led on the starboard h^nd a coral patch of 4 fathoms, situated half way between Booby islet and the north-west point of Praslin. When Booby and Aride islets are in one, bearin|^ N. f W., Mary Anne island being just open of Cnrieuse iKlet, a ship may haul up with safety to anchor or pass between Carieuse and Praslin.'** BeolAo.— This island is only about 1) miles in length, but of not less than 150 feet in height. It has a remarkable rock, like a building, on its summit, which is white in colour, owing to the almost innumerable birds that resort to it. Its posi- tion is about 18 miles eastward from port Victoria, being in Lat. 4° 34' 48'' S., and Long. 55° 50' 9" E. The Menai, Captain P. Moresby, anchored here in 1821, at about \\ miles N.N.W. from the island, in 17 fathoms, sand and shells. rriyate Zaland. — The centre of Prigate island, the easternmost of the Se}'- chelles, is in Lat. 4° 85' 12" S., and Long. 66° 1' 9" E. This isknd is about 2\ miles long, and 550 feet high ; it should be cautiously approached, because a reef of rocks lies o(F its south-east end, and there is also probably a reef off its north end. Ships running for port Yictoria in hazy weather will pass this island before Mah^ comes into view, and will even sometimes reach so far as Reciffe island. The island is inhabited, and has anchorage under its lee. &elot Zaland is a small islet on the south-west side of Frigate island, from which it is distant about 2 miles. In the channel between, the depth is 15 to 19 fathonos ; some sunken rocks are inserted in Captain Owen's chart close to Lelot ; in other respects the channel appears safe. cnBimnej Booka. — ^At about 8 miles N.N.W. \ W. from Prigate island there is a bed of rocks called the Chimneys, situated nearly midway between Prigate and La Digue Islands ;t and W.N.W. \\ miles from these is a dangerous rock, covered at half-tide, named in Owen's chart Benouu^e, but in the Prench chart (No. 1205) Le Cauuan ; in the channel between the depth is 15 to 20 fathoms. The Alligator and Shabe are situated 4 miles W. \ S. from the south point of La Digue, and at nearly 3 miles S. % W. from the south end of Praslin. These comprise all the known I'ocks between Prigate and Beciffe islands on the south, and Praslin and La Digue islands on the north ; but there are reasons for believing that the channel has not been sufficiently explored. &a Biiriie is about 3 miles in extent, and its highest part is in Lat. 4° 21' 12" S., and Long. 55° 55' 9" E. It is surrounded by a reef, and landing is difficult. The channel between this island and Praslin is about 3 miles wide, and has a general depth of 13 to 15 fathoms, but thei*e are two dangerous rocks in mid-channel, distant from each other nearly a mile in a S.S.E. and N.N.W. direction, which are covered nt half- tide. Captain P. Mobbsby sounded round the southernmost rock, and had a depth of 6 fathoms at a boat's length from it, and 12 fathoms at a ship's length, and recommended that an attempt to pass between them be avoided until the passage is better known. In the direction of S.S.W., or 3 miles from the Bound island (joined to the east ond of Praslin by a coral reef), there are two rocks above water, named Bequiems, • There sppean to bo a mistake here, for in Captain Owen'a chart Muy Anne island is castwsrd of F^icit^ i^Und, and we should say not viniblc A-om the position alladed to. \ At about 1^ miles eutward and north-eastward from the Chimneys are said to be some rocks nwa-h, on which the French Mgate Begenhre was nearly lost These rocks are not inserted ill any chart (French or Englinh) that we have seen^ and we suspect that they have loittaken for the Chimneys. i r\r^nlo Digitized by VjOOQIc SJElYCaELLES ARChIPELAGO. 581 which bear from each other about N.N.E. and S.S.W., distant two or three cables'- length. The south point of La Digue, in one with the south point of Mary Anne island, will lead to them.* VeUette'v Mary Amie, and the Siaten are some small islands situated north- eastward from La Digue. The position of the north peak of Mary Anne, the eastern- most island, is Lat. 4"" 19' 24," S. and Long. 66^ (Y 3d" E. At the south-east end of F€licit6 island there is a detached rock. A rock above water, named Ayb Mabia, lies between these islands and Fraslin, at about 1^ miles eastward from the latter, and is reported to have a shoal projecting south-westward from it about a cable's length ; this rock has a depth of about 11 fathoms in its immediate vicinity. Between the Sisters and Praslin the ground is very uneven and rocky, the depth being from 6 to 25 fathoms. The channel between the Sisters and F^licit6 is re- ported to be safe, the only known danger being a bed of rocks, partly under water, which extends southward from the Sisters. In the vicinity of the Sisters, two rocks are inserted in charts, on the authority of M. Yailhbu of the French ship Madagascar, 1834. The first is 8 feet under the surface, and its position is about 2 miles N.W. from the western Sister ; the second, named Mellow, also under water, is 5 miles North from the same island. The existence of these rocks requires confirmation. Bemila is the north*easternmost of the Seychelles; its centre is in Lat. 3° 48' 12" S., and Long. 55° 43' 21" E. This island is about IJ miles in extent North and South, and has or had several thatched habitations on its northern side ; it is very low, covered with trees, and may be seen from a ship's deck about 12 miles. Captain F. Mo&esby says : — "A reef appeared to project from its southern end, nearly a mile, with discoloured water be3'ond it ; and a coral bank or spit extends from it to the northward 2 miles, upon which we shoaled suddenly, and found 3 to 5 fathoms, and there may be less water u^mu some of the patches. In approaching the island from the south-eastward, the soundings at 3 and 4 leagues* distance are from 25 to 30 fathoms, sand, coral, and shells ; and when the island bears from S. W. to S. 4 miles, you are off the spit that stretches out from its northern extreme. If you suddenly shoal under 10 fathoms when passing, immediately haul out to the northward or N.E. From 10 fathoms the soundings gradually deepen as you stand to the N.W., and the bank slopes down to 40 fathoms when the island disappears from the deck. As this island is near the north-east extremity of the great bank of soundings which circumscribes the Seychelles archipelago, it is convenient for a ship to sight it when proceeding by the southern passage for the Arabian gulf, there being no known danger to be met with when steering for it in the night if the lead be kept going, which will give timely warning of an approach to it from any direction." Blra or 8ea-Caw. — This, the northernmost of the Seychelles, is a small, low, sandy island, of not more than 1 mile in extent North and South, and very narrow. Ite centre is in Lat. 3° 45' 42" S., and Long. 55° 15' 39" E. Upon it there ai-e or were a few shrubs. A coral reef which surrounds it is said to extend from it about 1^ miles. The island has been described as but little else than a coral reef sur- mounted by dry sand) and it is also stated that a bank extends from its south end, upon which is a depth of 9 fathoms, sand and coral, at 6 miles distance from it. If so unfortunate as to be lost on this island, it is probable that water may be obtained * We suspect that these are the Alligator and Shark rocks, already mentii Digitized by 'Hbogie ^82 ISLANDS IN T&E INDIAN OCEAN. ^y sinking a pit in the sand, the crew of the Sirondelle, % wrecked French ship, haTing sustained life by this means. Beefli and Shoals.— The great Seychelles bank has not been fully explored, and it is probable that there are shoals upon it which have yet to be inserted in charts. The Akdbohache shoal is a shoal of 5 to 20 fathoms, situated in the north- western part of the bank, in Lat. 3^ 50' S., and Long. 64P 63' E. ; it was discovered hy'RM,S,A7idrotnacke, in 1836, and its extent, and the possibility of there being less water than 6 fathoms^ were not ascertained. The Swan, a shoal discovered by a whaling ship of that name in 1824, situated in about Lat. 4° S., and Long. 54^ 37' £., is reported to be 6 to 6 miles in exltent, and to have soundings upon it of 3 to 9 fathoms on coral.* The D0FOIIT, a shoal of 3^ fathoms, in Lat. 4"^ W S., and Long. 54° 28' £., is inserted in charts upon the authority of M. Dufoxit. In the eastern part of the Seychelles bank, the brig Zoroaster is reported to have passed over a coral bank, in about Lat. 5^ S., and Long. 66° 40^ E., sounding in 7 fathotes; it was believed that there was shoaler water in the neighbourhood. Upon the Seychelles bank the depths are generally from 14 to 45 fathoms, but there is less water in some parts. As before observed, its eastern and southern limits have not been ascertained. The soundings at about 20 miles eastward from Frigate island are reported to be 8, 10, and 12 fathoms for a oonsiderable distance i but this does not agree with Captain Owen's chart, in which the depth is shown to be 22 to 50 fathoniK. The Mary is said to have had 11 fathoms, rock, at about 18 leagues eastward from Mahe, in a part of the bank where 30 fathoms is supposed to be the average depth. A patch of Z\ fathoms, which may be identical with the Dupont shoal, is also i*eported to be situated on the edge of the bank, in a direction due West from Silhouette ; but it was sought for unsuccessfully by the Wizard, in 1821. KEELING ISLANDS. Xaeliav lalantts. — This group of islets occupies an extent of nearly 8 miles j they are about twenty in number, and the largest is 6 miles long. All are very narrow, and most of them are .separated only by narrow channels sufficiently shallow to be foinlable at low tide ; there is, however, one exception to this rule, and it is where Horsburgh island, the northern isle, is separated from Direction island by the deep channel forming port Befnge. This deep channel leads into the basin in the centre of the lagoon, where is anchorage in 5 or 4 fathoms on coral, or sand and clay, according to the locality. Every island is so thickly covered with cocoa-nut trees that it is difficult to make way through them. About nine varieties of other treew are found intermixed with these, palm trees, &xi*\ but, comparatively speaking, those form only a very small part of the verdure of the islands. Fresh water is easily obtainable in all parts of the islands at about two feet below the surface, — the springs rising and falling with the tide ; the difference between high and low w^ater in the basin being about 5 feet. A line of shelving rock, extending outwards from fifty to a hundred yards, surrounds the outer or sea-front of all the islands. The surf is very violent at high tide, but at low water a person may wade to tlie edge of the * The Swan may not be the oxtly shoal in this vicinity. In the original report the pocitton ^aven was Lat. 8*" bb' S. to 4"" 1' S., and Long. 54° 42' E. This part of the SeyoheUes bank has not been exandned. Digitized by VjOOQIC SEYCHELLES AECHIPELAGO. S83 mar^Ia of thu ooral baak, and absolutely look down into an unfathomable sea. So^ small is the base of the group compared with its upper surface, and so little do the sides diverge from the perpendicular line. It was attempted to form a settlement on these islands many years ago, under the charge of Captain J. C. Boss, with the view to afford supplies to India and China vessels. The settlement flourished a short time, and, after various vicissitudes, was abandoned. The position of the south-west point of Direction island, the north-east island of the group, is, according to Admibal Fitzbot, who aorveyed the islands in 1836, Lat. 12° 5' 40" S., and Long. 96° 53' E. The Vortli Xeellng, an island similar in appearance and in formation to those juBt described, is distant N. 2° 3(y W. (true) 14 miles from the west end of Hors- burgh island, the northernmost of the cluster. It is not more than a mile in extent, is suiTounded by a coral reef, and encloses a lagoon. Aduibal Fitzbot has thus described these islands : — " When the islands came into view we saw them right ahead, distant about 16 miles. A long but broken line of cocoa palm trees, and a heavy surf breaking upon a low, white beach, rising not many feet above the foaming water, was all we could discern till within 5 miles of the larger Keeling (there are two distinct groups) ; and then we made out a number of low islets nowhere more than thirty feet above the sea, covered with palm trees, and encircling a large shallow lagoon. We picked our way into port Refuge (the only harbour), passing cautiously between patches of coral rock, clearly visible to an eye at the masthead, and anchored in a safe, though not the best berth. We subsequently sent out our boats in all directions, though there was so much wind almost each day as materially to impede surveying. Sound- ings on the seaward sides of the islands could seldom be obtained, but two moderate days were eagerly taken advantage of to go round the whole group in a boat, and get the few deep soundings which are given in the plan. The two principal islands (considering the whole southern group as one island) lie north and south of each other, 15 miles apart ; and as soundings were obtained 2 miles north of the large island, it may be inferred, I think, that the sea is not so deep between the two as it is in other directions. Only a mile from the southern extreme of the South Keeling I could get no bottom with more than 1000 fathoms of line. *'The southern cluster of islets encircle a shallow lagoon of an oval form, about 9 miles long and 6 wide. The islands are mere skeletons, little better than coral reefs, on which broken coral and dust have been diiven by sea and wind till enough has been accumulated to afford place and nourishment for thousands of cocoa palms. The outer edges of the islands are considerably higher than the inner, but nowhere exceed about thirty feet above the mean level of the sea. The lagoon is shallow, and almost filled with branching corals and coral sand. The small northern island is about a mile in diameter, a strip of low coral land, almost surroundiug a small lagoon, and thickly covered with cocoa-nut trees." Another description of the islands is as follows : — " Port ILefuge has only one entrance for ships, which is at the northern part of the lagoon, and the navigable channel is only half a mile wide ; this is bounded on the west side by Horsburgh island, the northernmost of the chain, and considerably detached from the others, and by Direction island on the east side. Straggling rocks, and an extensive reef, called Turk reef, stretch from Uor(>burgh island to the S.£. and S. li milei^aud- Digitized by VjOOQ IC 584 ISLANDS m THE INDIAN OCEAN. to the S.S.W. 3^ miles, uniting with Ross island, which forms the west side of the harhoui'i and is 5 miles in length. Scott island is in the form of a crescent, and lies at the S.E. angle of the harhour, the south and west sides of which are hounded by the coral reef. From the north end of Scott island, the east side of the harbour is encircled by a close succession of small isles, stretching to Clunie island, which approaches near to Direction island, there being only a few islets between them. This coral chain of islands, or rather wall, in the middle of the ocean, is elevated only from 3 to 10 feet above the sea at high water spring-tides. Most of the isl^ are covered with cocoa-nut trees, and two other species, — one of them soft, white, and spongy — the other heavy, hard, dark-looking, timber. The cocoa-nuts contiguous to the sea have a saline taste, and are small ; but those in the middle of the islands are good. The beaches abound with land crabs, aquatic birds, and turtle. " Soundings will be got suddenly when on a transit-line joining the two islands that form it, and when inside about a mi!e, having brought tlie north extreme of Direction island to bear about E.N.E. ; you should cast anchor in 4 or 5 fathoms iu the outer anchorage, which Ls perfectly smooth, and not proceed farther until you have examined the channels leading to the east or west harboui's inside. These harbours are separated by a large rocky shoal in the middle of the port, called Dymoke shoal, ur Middle ground, having on it from 1 ^ to 2^ fathoms water. The southern ex- tremity of the port also is ver}- shoal. The outer anchorage is sufficiently capacious to contain a great number of ships, but is in some parts spotted with mushroom coral, which may easily be avoided in anchoring, as the water is very clear. The bar, or ilat, inside the outer anchorage, is extensive, also spotted widely with coral, and all the rocks are of this substance. "Ships drawing above 18 feet should not attempt to sail in over the bar; but if on an emergency they do so, the coral patches may be avoided by a careful person on the foreyard directing the ship's course. These patches are elevated two or three feet above the natural level of the bottom, and being of the mushroom species, of a darkish coloar, are easily discerned at a considerable distance, as the water is extremely clear, and the sandy bottom of snowy whiteness. " Ships drawing about 21 or 22 feet, intending to go inside, may warp over the bar, and afterwards choose either the Eastern or Western harbours at discretion, taking care to avoid Dymoke shoal, which is an extensive coral flat with overialls near its edges, and (lying on a dark bottom) is not easily discernible. The depUis on the bar are 3 to 3^ fathomit, and the best track is a little nearer to tlie isUnda (on the eastern side) than mid-channel, the depth increasing when over the bai* from 4 to 6 fathoms,— avoiding the corally heads in approaching the inner hai'bour on either side of Dymoke shoal.*' CHRISTMAS ISLAND. ChrUtnuM Xslandi the north end of which is situated in Lat. 10^ 27' S., and about Long. 105° 33' E.| is an island 10 miles across, of square form, and of suf- ficient elevation to be visible from a distance of nearly 40 miles. It is precipitous all round, and no bottom was obtained at a cable's length from shore, sounding with a line 100 fathoms long ; there is consequently no anchorage oil' the cliffs. It is possible to land on its north-west side on a beacli composed of white sand and coral. ill? oiily animals it supports are probably wild hogs. Digitized by LjOOQIC 5SS LACCADIVH ISLANDS. This archipelago of islands and banks is situated between Lat. 10^ and 13^ oO N., Long. 71° 45' and 74° E * They are in general so low as to be visible only at a very short distance ; hence the greatest care is necessary when approaching any of them. Many ofHhe islands are snrronnded by a steep coral reef, at a short distance from which soundings are lost in the depth of 100 fathoms. The islands were surveyed by Lieutenants Mobesby, Selbt, and Tatlob of the Indian Navy, 1828 — 1848 ; they may be traversed with safety in fine weather, provided a good look-out is main- tained, and the large chart (the result of the survey) is at hand for reference.f Cora*^divli is the northernmost of the Laccadivhs. It is a bank of 23 to 30 and 48 fathoms, extending between Lat. 13° 34' and 13° 52' N., and between Long. 72° 4' and 72° 14' E. Its average width is about 5 miles, and close to it there is no bottom at the depth of 100 fathoms. The shoalest part appears to be near its north- east edge, where soundings of 23 and 24 fathoms prevail for some distance. The bank is composed of sand, decayed coral and broken shells. Sesostrls Bank (a bank of 11 to 63 fathoms) is situated between Lat. 13° O' and 13° 14' N., Long. 71° 52' and 72° 5' E. It is about 10 miles wide in its broadest (the western) part, whence it tapers to a point in a south-east direction ; it is in this, the narrow part, that the shoalest water, 11 fathoms, is found. Soundings of 12 and 13 fathoms may also be obtained near its north-eastern edge. The bank is very steep, there being no bottom at 100 fathoms close to it all round. Blnnyal-Var (Bassas de Pedbo ob Padua Bane). — This extensive bank ex- tends from Lat. 12° 30' to Lat. 13° 37' N., between the longitudes of 72° 16' and 72° 44' E. It is nowhere more than 14 miles wide (in the middle only 7 miles), and has upon its soundings of 21 to 34 fathoms, sand, decayed coral and shells, being similar in its formation to Cora-divh and Sesostris banks. The northern end of the bank appears to be its shoalest part. Close to it all round there is no bottom at 100 fathoms. Beleapani (Chebbaniani Reef) extends from Lat. 12° 16' to 12° 24' N., its centre being in Long. 71° 53' E. It consists of coral rocks, mostly visible at low water, and is so steep that at half a mile from it there is no ground at 100 fathoms. Upon it are two sand-banks dry at low tide. This reef is very dangerous, as the sea does not always break upon it ; high breakers have, however, been seen in its western part, when the sea was otherwise smooth. It is high water on the days of full and change of tlie moon at lOh. ; springs rise 7 feet and neaps 4 feet. During the survey the flood was observed to flow to the north-eastward. Cbereapani (Bybahgobe Beef). — This very dangerous reef extends from Lat 11° 48' to Lat. 11° 59' N., and between Long. 71° 44' and 71° 50' E. ; it conse- quently has an extent of about [11 miles. For about two miles from its north end there are soundings over it of 4 and 6 fathoms, but all the remaining part of tlie * The longitudes in our description of this archipelago of islands are dependent upon Bombay Observatory, recently ascertained to be in Ix>ng. 72° 48' 4"- 5 E. This is considered to be a well- determined position, and has been taken as a meridian in determining the longitudes of many places on the west coast of India, coast of Arabia, and islands in the Indian Ocean. Bombay (Kolaba) lighthouse is in Long. 7 '2° 48' o"* ft £; and Bombay Flagstaflf is l' 34*" east of the observatory, consequently in Long. 72° 49' 80'.>" E. t Published by the Hydrographic Office, Admiralty, Ko. 08. See also the plan of the LaccadiTbs in the sheet of l*laus of Islands in the Indian Ocean, published by Messrs. Imray & Son. Digitized by VjOOQLC 586 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. reef consists of coral rocks, more or less near the surface of the water. When the reef was examined hy Lieutenants Selbt and Taylor, the flood was observed to flow over it in a N.E. direction. " The bank, which is yery steep, closely surrounds the reef, except to the N.E., where it projects 3 miles beyond it, with soundings from 4 to 8 fathoms. The coral rocks forming the reef are just discernible at low water, and the bottom is distinctly Yisible on Uie bank ; but, as there are no sound- ings near this or the Beleapani, the approach to them is very dangerous, as the noise uf the surf would not be heard unless a ship were to leeward in calm weather; and the current frequently sets 12 or 15 miles during the night, in uncertain directions, although usually between S.E. and S.W. during the months of February, Maiob, and April." Betra^iVar is a coral reef extending between Lat UP 28' and IP 35' N., Long. 72^ 6' and 72° Kf £. In its northern part there is a low sandy islet having trees upon it (1848) ; and near its south-eastern edge is another* in the immediate vicinity of which are some rocks above water causing heavy breakers in tempestuous weather. There is said to be a gap in the reef close under the south side of the principal islet, where boats may lie for a short time, the depth being 2 fathoms. The reef is believed to be very steep, although in the chart a sounding of 12 fathoms is inserted dose to its south end, and another of 39 fathoms immediately off its eastern side at two miles from its north end ; its western side has not been sounded. Chitlao is a small, low islet in Lat. 11° 41' N., Long. 72^ 41i' E. A reef extendi from its western side about 1^ miles, almost dose to the edge of which is deep water. Its eastern side is very steep, there being no bottom at 70 fathoms at half a nuie off. During the examination of the islet the flood was observed to set N.E. by £. Xlltaa.— This islet is 2^ miles long N.K.W. and 8.S.E., and has a reef extend- ing about 1^ miles from its west side. The island and the reef are both steep, there being no bottom immediately off them at 90 fathoms. Position : Lat. 11° 28^ N., Long. 72° 68' E. When the survey was in progress the flood>tide was observed to flow E.N.E. VeremnltiVar is a sandy islet in Lat. 11° 9' N., Long. 71° 59" £.— (observationb for latitude not good). It is situated at about two miles within the north-east end of a triangular-shaped reef, having an extent of about 7 miles, the base of which faces the north. The soundings close to the north-west side of the reef are 6 to 25 fathoms ; other parts of it do not appear to have been examined. Anoatta, Blagaro* Ttnvaro.— -These three islands are seated on a reef which extends from Lat. 10° 48' N;, Long. 72° 7' E. to Lat. 10° 56' N., Long. 72° 19' E. Aucutta, the westernmost island, is about 3 miles long N.E. by N. and S.W. by S., (vnd half' a mile broad. It is, or was^ inhabited, and in 1848 there were coooa-nut trees upon it. A small islet^ named Calpooty, lies a mile from its south point, to Which it is joined by a reef; and it is said that there are sonndiiigs at a short dis- tance southward from this iftlet. " From Calpooty a coral reef projects westward and north-westward in the form of a semicircle, distant 1^ miles from the west aide of Aucutta, and joins to the bank at its north end. On the edge of the reef, directly west from the northern extremity of the island, are soundings where a vessel might anchor in case of necessity, but the bottom is of coral rock." Bingaro and Tingaro (the former is the westernmost and distant 6 miles from Aucutta) are two small islets surrounded by a coral reef. They are separated from Aucutta by soundings of 5 to 15 fathomsi where vessels may anchor iTnecMauy. LiLCCAIHYH ISLAlfD& 5S7 The edges of the reef upon which Aucntta, Bingaro, and Tingaro are eeated, are probably steep, like those of other reefs of the Laccadivhs. They do not appear to have been sounded, except at a short distance eastward from Aucntta, where no bottom was obtained at 100 fathoms. Owtfaiinim is an island 4 miles long N. } E. and S. f W. and scarcely a mile wide. Its centre is in Lat. 11^ 13' N., Long. 7^ 44' £. A coral reef surrounds it, stretching off from its west side about 2 miles. It is said that there are sonndings of 16 and 20 fathoms near the south point of its reef, or at about midway between the island and Ameni, an island 5 miles S.S.W. from it. Cardamum has not been thoroughly surveyed. Ameai is a small island in Lat. 11° 5' N., Long. 72° 41' £. It is of circular form, about 1^ miles across, and surrounded by a reef which on all sides except the south- west extends out nearly a mile ; on this side, the depth at a very short distance from it is 8 to 15 fathoms. Mttle^— In Lat. 10° 45' N., Long. 72° 31' E. is Pittie, a small sandy islet, or bank, so little above the sea that during heavy tempestuous weather it is flooded. It is destitute of verdure, and generally covered with birds. Hobsbuboh says, " On the east side of the bank, there is a black rock resembling a wreck. This sandy islet or bank seems to present an area of not more than two acres, and is probably in part inundated during the S.W. Monsoon. From Pittie, an extensive rocky bank of soundings projects 3 leagues to the N.W. towards Tingaro, and about 7 leagues N.E. towards Ameni; hence it stretches southward nearly on the meridian of Cabrutee, within 4 leagues of that island. The soundings on this bank, so far as it has been examined, are from 6 to 20 fathoms." It is believed that a deep water channel separates the bank from Ameni. Cabn&tee.— This island is about 2^ miles long N.E. and S.W., and 1 mile broad, and is, or was, covered with cocoa-nut trees ; its position is Lat. 10° 30' N., Long. 72^ 87 V ^* ^^ ^^^ >idc ^» ve belieye, dear of danger, but not so its north- western and southern sides, whence a reef projects westerly 2^ miles. At the north- east end of the island there is an opening in the reef, and openings occur also in other parts which are navigated by the native vessels. At the south-west end of the island there is a coral spot on the eSctremity of the reef where a vessel may anchor if necessary, with a chain fixed to a small anchora During the examination of the island the tide was observed to have a velocity of two miles an hour.* Water may be procured on the island. Senliell-Var.— At about 32 miles from Cabrutee in a south-westerly direction, is the north-eastern end of an extensive reef, named Seuheli-Pai*, the edges of whidi are believed to be steep, like those of all the reefs hitherto described. This, the south-westernmost of the Laccadivhs, is situated between Latitudes 9° 57V ^^^ 10° 6'K., Longitudes 72° 7V and 72° 16' E;; it is very dangerous, as it cannot be seen beyond a rery moderate distance, and the currents in its vicinity are strongs especially on the days of fuU Ahd change of the moon, when the rise of tide is about G feet. Many of the black rocks are said to be of considerable height above the water. Upon the reef are two low islets, 6^- miles apart N.N.E. and S:S;W., named « It may here be obsenred that nsnally the enrrents among the Laccadivhs do not let directly upon the islands, but generally alotig them, or along the edges of the reeft, whioh lefsens the dsDger to be apprehended in calms. Digi^i,^^ by L^OOg IC 588 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. SSeuvelli and Seuheli ; of these, Jbhe former is situated at its north-eastern end, and the latter at its eastern side in nearly the middle of the reef. These islands are not inhabited, except in the fine seaiion, when they are resorted to by the natives of the other inlands for fishing. The water procured from them by digging is brackish and unfit for use. On Seuvelli a kind of soil wood may be cut for fuel ; the trees on Seuheli are cocoa-uut, yielding fruit of a saline quality, and very unpaktable. From Seuvelli a coral spit extends out about a mile in a northerly direction, with soundings upon it of 5 to 12 fathoms. It is here apparently that the only known passage over the reef is to be found, leading to Seuheli ; it is navigable solely by boats. On the chart of the Laccadivhs (to which reference has been made) it is remarked that from a distance of 20 miles westward of the Seuheli-Par no dangers were visible,— we supposed in the direction of the reef; there is consequently, we think, no reason for supposing that there are other reefs in the vicinity of its western side, nevertlieless the following will be a caution to shipmasters approaching it £rom westward :~" April 9th, 1804. At 11 o'clock p. v. the ship ^nne, from the Bed Sea, struck on a reef, and bilged before day-light. From the wreck, Seuvelli, the northernmost island, bore E.S.E. 4 or 5 leagues, and Seuheli-Par S.E. about 6 leagues ; the reef from S.W. to E.N.E. being 10 or 12 miles in extent." Hobsburgu has observed in reference to this report, that the distance estimated from the wreck to the islands is certainly too gieat, ibr they could not be discerned so far ; but if the bearings are tolerably correct the reef upon which the wreck occurred is farther from the islands than hitherto supposed. Slioalpenl Bank lies between Latitudes 11^ 10' and IP 15' N., Longitudes 73° 55' and 73° 59' £., and has consequently an extent of about 5 miles ; but this is uncertain, a:^ the Premier, in 1835, is said to have sounded in 9 to 3| fathoms in Lat. 11° 16' N. when 'she supposed herself northwai^ of the bank.* It is wholly composed of sharp coral rocks, and according to Lieutenant Mobbsby has a depth over it of 7 to 15 fathoms. It is probable that the sea breaks upon it in heavy tempestuous weather. xmAmroo is a small low island about 3^ miles long East and West and 1^ broad, the centre of which is in Latitude 10° 47' N., Longitude 73° 40' B. ; it is, or was, covered with cocoa-nut trees, and is said to aflbrd tolerable water. The island is seated on a reef of coral, through whicli there is but one known passage, and this i.n only navigable by boats. From it a coral bank, having over it a general depth of 7 to 9 fathoms, extends 8 miles to the northward, and about the same distance to the north-eastward : there is, however, upon it* a spot of 10 and 12 fathoms, sand, at about a mile northward from tlie island, where vessels may anchor. The edges of the bank are steep, and at a short distance southward from the island is deep water. The island and bank are situated between Latitudes 10° 46' and 10° 55' N., Longitudes 73° 34i' and 73° 40' E. italpeiii.— Between Latitudes 10° 3' and 10° 9 J' N., Longitudes 73° 33' and 73° 37' E. is Kalpenl bank, upon the eastern side of which are two low islets ; of these the southern and lai*gest is named Kalpeni, the northern Cheria. These two islands are joined together at low water by a dry i*eef, and close to the south-west > If we suppose a Bmall error in latitude, tlic vessel obtained soundings on the bank itself « but tiie deptbt 8f fathoms, is much les« water tlian wan found by Liedt. Moresby during bis survey ill Ib-'S, or by Cait. McClueu, who aiichorvil upon it in 17»0 in U to 0^ ^***'^*'OOOlP MALDIVH ISLANDS. 58& end of Kalpeni are t\^o isleU. Some of the rocks on the west part of the bank are above water. According to Captain McClueb, 1790, Kalpent bank is 8teep on the outside, with high breakers, and there are no soundings till close to the surf; through one part of it there is a naiTow channel with only 1^ and 2 fathoms water, and from 3 to 4 fathoms on the coral flat inside. The boats of the natives lie at tlie Kouth-west pai*t of the island, nearly south from the gap or channel in the reef, about miles distant. The southern island, where are a few small villages, is well planted with cocoa>nut trees, and has soundings off its soi^h end of 9 or 10 fathoms, coral. Xalpeni is the south •easternmost of the Laccadivhs. Mlniooy. — Although this island is nearer the Maldivhs than the Laccadivhs, it ii» considered to belong to the latter; its centre is in Lat. 8^ 17' N., Long. 73^ 3' E. ; it is consequently distant from Kalpeni 108 miles in a S. by W. ^ W. {true) diree- f ion. It is 6} miles long and half a mile broad, and so low that it cannot be seen from a distance exceeding 6 to 10 miles ; upon it are co3oa-nut trees, and it is said to be well peopled. Fi*om its north-west side a reef extends 3 to 5 miles. On the reef near the west pohtt of the island there is an islet with trees upon it, and at the north end of the island there is a narraw and intricate passage through the reef having a depth of about 2 fathoms. Within the edge of the reef is deeper water, as small vessels may there anchor in 2} and 3 fathoms on coral. MALDIVH ISLANDS. The following description of this group of islands is by Commander Mobbsbt of the Indian Navy, 1839, who with Likut. Powell, also of the Indian Navy, sur- veyed the Maldivhs during the 3'enrs 1834-6. All the longitudes depend upon that assigned to Bombay Observatory, namely, 72° 48' 4''*5 E.* "Navigators in general are not aware, more particulai'ly those coming from Europe, that the whole group of the Maldivh islands are inhabited by a civilized race of people, who carry on a considerable trade with the British possessions in India ; more particularly Bengal, Ceylon, and the Malabar coast, as also to the Red Sea r and are expert navigators and sailors. Schools for teaching navigation are on Home of the islands. They make and repair nautical instruments, such as the ahtrolabe and quadrant. On one occasion I was much surprised in seeing a wooden sextant very neatly made by them ; the gla.sses and telescopes had been fitted from old instruments ; they copy our nautical tables, generally using our figures, and translate the rules in our navigation books into their own language. They are an inoffensive, timid people, and there appears far less crime among them than with more polished nations ; murder is not known among them, nor is theft or drunkenness ; being strict Mohammedans, they are forbidden the use of spirituous liquors, which could be easily made from the fermented juice of the cocoa-nut tree, which they have in abundance. " They are governed by a sultan, whose title and rank are hereditary ; under the sultan are five viziers or ministers of state, as also a head priest, and judge, civil and religious ; the hendeggeree, or custom master, is also a very great man ; and • See the Note at foot of page 585. Refer also to the chart of the Maldivhs in three sheets, published by the Hfdrographlo CMBce. Admiralty. Ko. 66 a, b, c. Also to the plan of the islanda in the sheet of plans of islands in the Indian Ocean, isioed hj the pubUshen of this work, a [^ 590 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. last of all is the Emir el bahr, or master-attendant of the port; all these reside at Mal^, or King's Island. " To the different Atolls are appointed one or two chieftains, or as they are 8t3'led Atoll Warrees ; as also a Catib to each Atoll ; the catib is priest and judge. Evm- Atoll pays a certain fixed revenue, a portion of their prodnoe, to the Government at Mal6, and none are allowed to trade with foreigners or strangerSf except at Mal^. *' The men, in appearance, are tf a dark copper colour, rather shoi't, and in person not unlilve the natives of Ceylon and the Malabar coast ; but their language is totally different ; their women are not pretty, and are extremely alarmed at the sight of strangers. These islanders have been more than kind in their hospitality to ship- wrecked mariners, which was exemplified in their humane and liberal conduct towards the commander, officers, and crew of two vessels, the Adonis and Victsnfude, which were totally wrecked during the night, one on CoUoomando Atoll in 1835, and the other on Heawandoo Atoll in 1836 ; nor would they accept of any payment, though liberally offered it by the Government of India; they accepted of presents from our Government as a mark of friendship, of which I had the honour of being the bearer. During the two years we were employed surveying among these islands, and in constant intercourse with them, they always treated ns with kindness and respect, yet with shyness and suspicion, supposing our motives for making a minute survey of their islands had other ends than to guide shipping in their navigating to India. However, I think we left them with mutual good feeling and understanding, which, I hope, will not be broken. Further information respecting these curious islands will be found in several papers written by myself and officers, and published b^^ the Bombay Geographical Society. " The MA&DXVK islands and Atolls extend from Lat. 7° & 20" N. to Lat 0^ 42' S., and between Long. 72° 33' and Long. 73° 44' E. In this space there «tv nineteen Atolls, or groups ; in the centre of the group the Atolls lie in double rows — east and west Atolls— with a space between them from 10 to 25 miles; at the north and south extremes, the Atolls lie singly. Between the whole of these Atolls are good channels for ships ; in them there are no soundings, not even dose to the outside of islands and reefs of the Atolls. The channels and their navigation I shall mention hereafter, as tKey follow in succession from north to south. A few preliminary remarks for a navigator will be requisite before I describe the chaunels and Atolls. " It is only the three or four larger channels that ships ought to pass through at night time, which are as follow : — " 1. The CardiTa Cbannol, called by the natives Cabdoo Eandoo, whose breadth is 25 miles, and length 67 miles ; its direction, N. 63° E., and S. 63° W. ; the centre of its west entrance is in Lat. 4° 34' N., and Long. 73° 41' 48" E. ; its eastern entrance in Lat. 5° 6' N., Long. 73° 41' 48'' E. The navigation of this channel is hereafter described. "2. The VaimMidoo Ohuuieli formed between the Atolls Colomaodoo and Adou-Matte. This channel is 15 miles broad, by 27 miles long; its direction E. 37^ N., and W. 37° S. ; the centre of its western entrance is in Lat 2° V N., Iiong. 78° 6' 48" E.; the centre of its eastern entrance is in Lat. 2^ 16^' N.» Long. 73<> 27' 48" E. Although this channel is tafci a commander would have lets anxiety MALDITH ISLANDS. 591 ia passing through the larger channel, a little to the south of it, called the One-and a-half*Degree Channel. " 3. The One-aad-a-luaf-Begree Cbannel, situated between the Atolls Adou- Matte to the north (whose south side facing the channel is in Lat. 1^ 47' N.) and the north extreme of the Suadi^a Atoll, in Lat. 0^ 55' N., and Long. 73^ 14' 48" E. This is a large channel, and a ship soon passes through it. " 4. The Bqiiatoilal Cbannel, formed between the south end of the Suadiva Atoll, in Lat. (f 12! N., and the small Atoll to the south, called Addoo Atoll, whose north side is in Lat. (f 35' S. The detached island of Phoowa Moloku is situated a little to the south and east of the centre of this channel or space, in Lat. 0^ 17^' S., and Long. 73^ 23' 18" E. All the other channels may be passed through without danger during the day-time, even through the Atolls between the coral reefs and the islands, as all dangers are visible at some distance, from the mast-head. " AH the Atollft north of the Lat. 3^ SCV N. have no barrier reefs round them, excepting a few detached parts, such as Horsburgh Atoll, in the N.W. part of the Cardiva Channel ; Boss Atoll, in the south part of the same ; and Qarfor Beef, in the S.E. part; as also the S.E. side of Phaidee Pholo Atoll, in the N.E. part of the same channel. The centre of Mahlos Mahdou Atoll, in Lat. 5° 35' N., and Long. 72P 4J& 48'' E., is much too intricate for a ship to pass through. "Maloolm Atoll« its centre in Lat. 6° 2ff N., and Long. 72° 35' 48" E., is one continued barrier reef of 15 miles in extent. " Keawandoo Fbolo Atoll« the most northern Atoll, has a large barrier reef surrounding iU N.W. side, from Lat. 6° 68' to 7^ 6' N., Long. 72° 46' 48" E. It was on this that the ship VunsHiude was lost in the year 1836, on her way from Mauritius to Ceylon, by running on this reef in the night, with westerly winds. " KBAWAiraOO VKO&O ATO&Ii.— This Atoll is the most northern of the Maldivh gronp ; it extends N.W. and S.E., 12 miles long by 7 broad ; it contains 24 islands, large and small, which lie on all sides of the boundary ; seven of them are inhabited, and contain a considerable population; they afford wood, water, and some supplies. A barrier reef surrounds the north and west sides, on which the fthip VieUsUude (from Mauritius to India) was wrecked. On the extreme north point of the Atoll is the small island called Turacoon, in Lat. 7° 6^ N., Long. 72° 52' 48" E. W.S. W. from Turacoon, 1^ miles, is another small island ; still more to the west, 2 miles, is the north extreme of the western barrier, between which and the island, as also between tha islands, are good channels leading into the Atolls, with not less than 9 and 10 fathoms water in them. To ihe S.E. of Turacoon, half a mile, is the large island of Oolegaum, which island is two miles long. On both sides, to the north and south, are good channels leading in. South-east of Oolegaum island, one, two, three, and five miles, are four other islands; the two next to Oolegaum are small ; those to the S.E. form the eastern boundary of the Atoll ; the south point of the large island of Mooradoo is on the extreme point, in Lat. 7° 1' N., Long. 72° 68' 26" E., S. i W., three miles from Mooradoo, is the small isUnd of Gulandoo, which gives name to the channel between Heawandoo Pholo Atoll and Tiiladoo Matte Atoll. Between the small island of Gulandoo and the south point of the large island of Mooradoo, are two ooral patohesi having little water on them ; they are in a transit lino between the itlandii and ought to be avoided by ships. S.W, of Qttfauidoo itlandi three mileii ii the B.B, point of a large reef«whifihJLpn igi ize y g 592 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. the extreme 8outh point of the Atoll, in Lat. 6° 65^' N., Long. 72° 55' 18^ E. ; between it and Galandoo is a good channel to enter. The N.W. |)oint of the Atoll i« the outer part of the great ban-ier reef, in Lat. 7® 4Jf N., Long. 72° 46' 18" E. Close to this is a small inland, low and bnshy. Heawandoo island, in the south paif of the Atoll, in Lat. 6° 58' N., Long. 72° 53' 48" E., is the principal island of the Atoll, being the residence of the sultan's vizier ; it is about one mile in length, and of a triangular form, covered with high cocoa trees and bread fruits The island is well inhabited, and furnishes good water, and some supplies. I have recommended it as a coal depot. It lies nearly in a direct line between Point de dalle and Socotra island, and about one- third of the distance from Point do Galle ; it is easy of acceiu) in every direction, and possesses safe anchorages for ships or steamers in all season$(. During the S.W. Monsoon a vessel could anchor on the east side of the island, between it and a small reef, dry at low water, situated about half a mile to the N.E. of the centre of the island. In the N.E. Monsoon the best anchorage is between the island and a large reef to the south, in 16 and 17 fathoms water. There is a fine channel through the barrier, W.S.W. from Heawandoo ; it is nearly a mile wide» having 12 fathoms in it. There are three small islands in the centre of Heawandoo Pholo Atoll, which abound with fine green turtle, seldom disturbed by the natives, who do not eat them. The general depths in the Atoll are from 20 to 30 fathoms ; several small coral patches ai'e scattered about. -This channel is formed between the south point of Heawandoo Pholo Atoll and Tilladoo Matte Atoll to the south ; the N.E. entrance is 12 miles broad, situated between the south end of Mooradoo Island, in Lat 7° V N., and Long. 72° 58' 28" E., and the N.E. extreme of Xeelah Island, in Tilladoo Matte, in Lat. 6° 5^ N., Long. 73° 11' 48" E. The west entrance of this channel is between the south point of Heawandoo Pholo, in Lat. 6° 55i' N., Long. 72° 65' 48* E., and the N.W. part of Tilladoo Matte, distant 3 miles to the south. We could find no bottom in this channel at 220 fathoms ; the ebb tide runs to the W.S.W., and the flood to the E.N.E.; high water at 9h. 30m. full and change; rise of tide 5 feet. Should a ship wish to anchor in passing through this channel, she may, without any danger, anchor in the north part of Tilladoo Matte, or soutli part of Heawandoo Pholo Atoll. The channels between the islands and reefs are all safe, and free from sunken coral patches. The currents about this part of the Maldirh islands set to W.N.W. in December, January, February, March, April ; and in May, June, July, and Au^t, to the eastward and N.E. ; September, October, and November they set south. The east and N.E. winds commence here about the beginning or middle of December; the south-westerly winds in May, which only continue four months. N.W. and N.E. are the prevailing winds. « TIXiXiABOO MATTB ATOUb.— This Atoll extends from the N.E. island, Keelah, whose north point is in Lat. 6° 59' N., Long. 73° 11' 48" B., to the S.W. extreme of the Atoll S. 36J° W., distance 35 miles, in Lat. 6° 30i' N., Lon^. 72° 50* 48" E. ; the N.W. point is the south boundary of the Gulnndoo Channel, in Lat. 6° 624' N., Long. 72° 55' 48" E. ; the S.E. point is the island of Mahwahdoo, in Lat. 6° 31V N., Long. 73° 1' 18" E. This Atoll is a continuation of the north part of Miliadoo Madou Atoll, indeed they are joined, or rather situated on the same bank of Bonndings^-having no ehannelB without soundings separating the] Jigitized by MALDIVH ISLANDS. 593 AtoIlB ; why Uie natives should liave given them tivo names I cannot teH. There are about thirty»eight islands in this Atoll, generally of a larger size, paiiicularly those on tlie eastern boundary, where the islands are principally situated ; all the islands on the north and east sides are inhabited, affording good water and some supplies ; safe channels are between all the islands. The soundings commence between the i8laRd.00.— Thiis channel is extremely useful for ships to and from India ; no ship ought to attempt to work through this channel against the strength of the Monsoon, either the S.W. or N.E. ; having wind and current against them, it would be next to impossible ; it may be advantageously adopted coming from the westward with westerly winds ; or from the eastwai'd with easterly winds ; or when the Monsoons are changmg, and the winds are light and variable ; calms are then very frequent, yet little or no danger is to be apprehended, the channel being sufficiently spacious. The channel takes its name from the island of Cardoo^ or Cardiva, situated near the centre of the eastern entrance, in Lat. 4P 58 J' N., Long. 73** 26' 48" E. This island is nearly two miles long, E.N.E. and W.S. W., and little more than half a mile broad. It is covered with a dense mass of high cocoa-nut trees ; its eastern side convex, having no sound- ings at 240 fathoms close to the beach ; on its western side, a circular reef extends to the westward about If miles, having a lagoon inside, where the natives snugly anchor their boats off the village on th© north side of the island. The entrance MAiiDIVH ISLANDS. 599 through the reef into the lagoon ia on the N.E. side near the N.E. point of the island, mai-ked by a few sticks placed as a beacon. A ship's boat can only land on the isknd by passing through the boat channel. There is generally a heavy surf round this island and reef, except at the channel for boats : it contains about 200 inhabitants. It aflTords good water, and some few supplies. A ship intending to pass through the Cardiva channel Irom the east ought to steer into Lat. 5° 5' N., Long. 73° 41' 48" E. ; from this position a straight course S.W. by W. i W. will lead clear through llie channel, distance 67 miles, passing to the south of Cardiva island 1 mile. A ship from the westward, intending to pass through the Cardiva channel, ought to steer into Lat. 4° 34' N., Long. 72° 41' 48" E. : from this a straight course N.E. by N. J E., dis- tance 67 miles, will carry a vessel through with a fair wind j should the wind be variable when entering this channel, the boundaries of it are as follow :— " Soo-waUee-fooree Island* a birge island on the barrier reef of the S.E. ex- treme of Phaidee Pholo Atoll, on which is a high clump of trees, in Lat. 5° 17' N., Long. 73° 34' 18" E. Alligow island, a small island with high trees on the extreme south point of the same Atoll, in Lat. 5° 15' N., Long. 73° 28' 48" E. On the south side of the east entrance is the large lagoon reef of Oafor — its N.W. point in Lat. 4° 47' N., Long. 73° 22' 48" E. : the centre and north side of this lagoon reef of Gafor is situated S. by W., distant 12 miles from Cardiva island : it has no soundings near it, and ought not to be approached in light winds ; it lies close off the north end of Male Atoll, having a channel between them 1^ miles broad, with no bottom at 100 fathoms in it. On the east end of the reef is the small island of Gafor, in Lat. 4° 44' N., Long. 73° 28' 18" E. ; the lagoon reef extends to the west of Gafor 7i miles into Long. 73° 20^ 48" E., and Lat. 4° 44" N. ; from this, across the channel the distance is 24 miles on a W.N. W. bearing to Goidoo island, the east extreme point of Bonbnrffli AtoU, in Lat. 4° 54' N., Long. 72° 57' 48" E. This Atoll is small, and is situated on the north and west boundary of the Cardiva' channel ; from east to west it is 10 miles long; its west end, the barrier reef, in Lat. 4° 62^' N., Long. 72° 48' 48'' E. ; its south point facing the Cardiva channel in Lat. 4° 50' N., Long. 72° 51' 48" E. At this part a good passage through tbe reef (for ships) leads into the Atoll ; in the passage is 8 and 9 fathoms ; it is known by several stony islands bounding the passage on the reef on each side. The west side of the passage is the deepest, the eastern side having 5, 4, and 3 &thoms. There is fine anchorage within, in 17 to 20 fathoms, sandy bottom, mixed with mud and clay, and free from rocks, except near the edges of the barrier reef. Thero are three larger islands on the north and east part of the Atoll, on the boundary — all of them inhabited — and afford wood, water, and some supplies. Goidoo is the largest and easternmost island — its situation formerly mentioned. Next to it, 1} miles, is Fhen-doo ; then still more to the west is Foo-roo-doo : they contain a population of 200 inhabitants. Between these islands and tbe south end of the south Mahlos Mahdoo Atoll is 6 miles ; the south end of this Atoll lies directly north from Horsburgh Atoll, having a safe channel between them, which may be used by ships, either departing from or en- tering the Cardiva channel. The south part of Mahlos Mahdoo Atoll is available for ships to anchor, who wish to obtain a few supplies, and some wood and water, which may be obtained at Heetahdoo island, the centre of four islands in the extreme south part of Mahlos Mahdoo, in Lat. 5° H' N., Long. 72° 52' 48" E. This island con- tains 250 inhabitants. To the E.N.E. of it 3 miles, as also to the west of it 2^ miles, are good channels leading into the Atoll. From this island, the S.E. boundary of the Atolli which faces the Cardiva channel, lies N.E. | N. 21 miles, t^ Lat. 5° 14' N between the eastern and western islands, lie the channels, which will be known by a small bushy island and a high bank of coral stones, both on the same reef; on either side of them is a channel leading into the Atoll. The eastern channel is the largest, being 400 or 500 yards broad, having not less than six and seven fathoms ; its direction N.W. and S.E. ; the western chjinnel is narrower, yet longer, and its direction north and south ; the depths are from ten to twelve fathoms. In both these channels the tides and currents are strong, as also in the southern ones ; the flood tide sets into the northern channels, and the ebb sets into the southern ones ; rise and fall of the tide about four feet ; high water at one hour full and change of the moon. The southern channels lie on the east side of Gung island, the southern island of the Atoll ; this I shall call Gung channel, and is formed between Gung island and two small islands to the E.N.E. of Gung, called Willing-gilly islands. Gung channel is half a mile broad, having no dangers in it, and the depths are from thirteen to seventeen fathoms; it is convenient for any ship entering the Atoll. The other channel I shall call the Willing-giliy channel, is on the east side of the Willing-gilly islands, formed between them and the south point of the dry coral reef bounding the east side of the Atoll ; this channel is one mile broad, and has from seventeen to twenty fathoms water in it, deepening as a ship enters the Atoll ; the direction of this channel is about N.W. and S.E. ; about one mile inside the entrance, on the N.E. side, there is a small coral reef, and as a vessel proceeds on to the centre of the Atoll three coral patches will bo observed, on which the sea breaks at times ; but these are easily avoided by a common look-out. The depths in the centre of the Atoll are from twenty-five to thirty -five fathoms, sand and clay. The most convenient anchorage for communication with the natives i^ near the islands, the west side of which are inhabited ; from the Willing-gilly channel, round the N.E. side of the Atoll, to the centre on the north side, is one continued barrier reef, on which are several islands; the only large one, of two miles in extent, is on the N.E. point of the Atoll ; tliis is well inhabited, and an interesting island; it is called Me-doo and Hoo-loo-doo, from two villages situated in its centre. " This Atoll is clear of reefs, except in the centre, where are the three small patches Jbrmerly mentioned, and which are easily avoided ; 30 and 35 fathoms is the depth of Avater in the centre ; near the islands on the cast and west sides, ai-e 20 and 25 fathoms ; a vessel may anchor as most convenient, according to the seasons — during the N.E. Monsoon, on the north or weather side, and in the other Monsoon, on the west side. The islands afford a few supplies of fruit, limes, poultry, eggs ; water and firewood in abundance. The natives are very civil and obliging, and will exchange their articles cither for money or rice, biscuit, sugar, salt, onions, and garlic ; they arc extremely lazy and indolent, and very timorous, fearful of strangers, and will not be induced to assist a ship in wooding and watering unless paid for it, and obliged to work ; they are ,under the government of the Sultan at Maid, or King's island ; and the Atoll- warree, or chief of the Atoll, is the person strangers ought to apply to for assistance in getting supplies. Some of the natives speak the Hindoostanee language; their principal occupation is making cotton cloths of white, red, and black colours mixed, all of which they dye themselves, and sell at a good price in the other Atolls. They are not allowed by their government to trade with foreigners, not even with the English, their allies ; all their produce must be sold at the king*8 island, Mal6. They seldom visit ships passing, from fear of 602 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. molesUiioii ; aud it would be wroug of any tthips stopping at these islands to allow their crew to intrude into the privacy of their houses, among their females, or wantonly aud without permission take their fruit, cocoa-nuts, fowls, &c. They are poor and inofiensiTe> and have reason to regret the visits of some merchant ship^. In religion they are all Mahomedans. The Atoll contains about 500 inhabitants, aad in appearance they are like the natives of India on the Malabar coast. ** There are no soundings outside of this Atoll close to the barrier reef, and being southward of the line or equator, it is almost without the influence of the Monsoon — the winds and weather being very variable, subject to squalls and rain. The N.£. Monsoon is felt in January, Febniary, and March ; and westerly winds more in July, August, and September. The currents about this Atoll are very strong ; for six months they set to the westward, and then back again to the eastward, according to the Monsoons, but are subject to checks from variable winds. They commence to set to the west about January, and to the eastward about June ; their velocity from 40 to 50 miles per day, decreasing considerably in sti-ength 40 or 50 miles from the islands. There was, in 1836, no variation of the compass. " I have been thus particular about this Atoll, as so many ships pass this plaoe on their way to and from India. I have also recommended it as a coal depot for steamers. ' B^VATOBIAXi caamrBl^ with an account of PUOOVTA, IKO&OXir K — This channel is free from dangers. The island Phoowa Moloku» erroneously called by former navigators Addon island, is situated a little to the south and east of the centre of the channel, which is 46 miles broad between Suadiva Atoll and Addoo Atoll. Phoowa Moloku island is 2 miles long N.W. and S.E., by a-half to three-quarters broad ; its centre is in Lat. 0^ I7i' S., and Long. 73"" 22' 18"£. ; from ite centre the S.E. extreme of Suadiva, in Lat. (f 23' N.. Long. 73° 29' 48" E., bears N. 10° E., distant 41 miles ; its south extreme, which is the nearest part to the island, in Lat. 0° 12' N., and Long. 73° 7' 48" E., bears N. 27° W., distant 33 miles; and the S.W. point of Suadiva, in Lat. 0° 18' N., Long. 72° 57' 48" E. A line di-awn through these three situations of Suadiva will shew the boundary of the south part of the Atoll, and which is the northern boundary of the Equatorial channel. The southern boundary bears from the centre of Phoowa Moloku, the point of Addoo Atoll, S. 37° W., distant 21^ miles N.E. ; the N.W. extreme of the same Atoll, S. 51° W., distant 28 miles. A ship passing through this channel, and coming either from the east or west, ought with light winds to borrow over towards Addoo Atoll, that in case of calms and variable winds, she may not be drifted too close to Suadiva Atoll ; if thb should be the case, a vessel might in the day time easily enter one of the numerous channels leading into the Atoll. One good channel (with plenty of water) lies to the W.N. W., 3 miles off the south point of the Atoll, whose latitude and longitude has been mentioned. To the N.W. and N.N.W. of this channel, distant 20 miles, is one continued barrier reef, with a succession of small islands, which appear at a distance nearly as one island. Between the S. and S.E. points of this Atoll, there are eight channels leading into the Atoll, all safe for ships, and in case of being drifted near them, may be used to enter the Atoll, where there is anchorage for the night; the depths are from 35 to 45 fathoms in the Atoll, and in the channels not less than 8 and 10 to 15 fathoms. Should the vessel not be able to return from the Atoll by the same channel she came in by, she may iu the Digitized by LjOOQIC MALDIVH ISLANDS. 603 day time steer boldly to the northward through the Atoll, in deep water from 35 to 45 fathoms, passing occasionally some small coral reefs and ii5lands, hauling to the eastward or westward, as her distination may be, that she may pass through some of the channels either on the east or west side of the Atoll ; some of the natives will gladly conduct them through for a few pounds of rice or bread. Between Phoowa Moloku island and Addoo Atoll the channel is iree from dangers, and Phoowa Moloku may bo approached quite closo off the north, east, and west sides, having no soundings near it ; but off the south side a shelving bank extends to the distance of 1^ mile ; the surf breaks veiy high on this, to the distance of } of a mile from the island ; yet on its extreme point a vessel may anchor in 6 and 7 fathoms water for a few hours, in moderate weather ; the bank is hard sand, with small coral rock, and the anchor does not hold well; its sides, like the island, are precipitous. This island contains between 300 and 400 inhabitants, who are principally employed in fishing, and weaving cotton doth. Here resides one of the royal family from Male, or King's island ; he is styled Deedee. From the islanders may be obtained turtle, fowls, eggs, i'ruit, lime, firewood, and fresh water. The natives often visit ships in passing, on shewing their colours ; some of them speak the Hindoostanee language. The trees on the island are from 70 to 90 feet high ; it is high water at one hour full and change of the moon ; rise and fall between 4 and 5 feet ; the ebb- tide in the channel sets to the westward, the flood to the eastward; they are little felt except in retarding and accelerating the currents; the prevailing winds are from west to south and S.S.E. from May to December, with much rain and squalls ; January, February, and March, the weather is less cloudy and rainy, the winds generally from the north and north-east. "8VABIVA ATO&Si, or by the Natives B00AB900 ATOIA.— This Atoll is one of the largest of the Maldivh ^x)up, the depth of water inside from 35 to 45 and 50 fathoms, much greater than the other Atolls, also less obstructed by coral reefs. There are thirty islands in its centre, two of which in the N.W. pai-t are inhabited. The islands on the boundary are very numerous, fifteen of them being inhabited, con- taining together a population of about 2000 persons. The principal employment of the men is in fishing, the women in weaving rush mats ibr couches, beds, &c., which are woven with different coloured rushes and in pretty patterns ; the rushes grow on the islands, and are dyed by the natives; a good mat sells for 1/. to 3^.; the principal island for their manufacture is at Guddoo,on the S.£. side of the Atoll, in Lat. 0° 18' N., and Long. 73° 23' 18" E. Close to the westward of this island, between it and a long bushy island called Qhang, is a good channel leading into the Atoll. Ghang island lies to the W.S.W. of Guddoo, distant one mile, and is a larger island, being a mile and a half in extent. Close to the westward of Ghang island ther6 is a broad channel a mile and half wide, with 30 fathoms water through- out ; also an island about three miles inside the channel, N. by E. from its entrance, having a projecting reef of considerable extent pointing south to the entrance of the channel ; this isknd, after entering the channel, may be passed on either the east or west sides. The inhabitants of this Atdl are much subject to dropsical swellings of the lower extremities of the^legs, called elephantiasis, common to Ceylon and the Malabar coast. On the N.W. part of this Atoll« in the year 1802, a Surat merchant ship was wrecked ; she was a prize to some French privateer ; one of her crew, a Frenchman, remained with the natives of the Atoll, adopted their manners aj^d^ Digitized by VjOO'^ '^ 60:t ISLANDS I!M THE INDIAN OCEAN. religion (Mahomedan), married one of their women, and had a family ; the man himself had died some few years before we came there, but his wife and children were living, whom we saw, and spoke to ; they were much alarmed, supposing wo intended taking them away. Poor creatures, they had little of the appearance of being the offspring of an European ; the wife and children were dreadfullj' afflicted Avith elephantiasis. "The Atoll is 42 miles in length, north and south, by 34 miles in breadth, east and west ; on its west, south, and east sides arc numerous islands ; the north and K.W. pai*t of the Atoll is bounded by a continuation of coral reefii, between which are numerous safe passages for ships, as also between the islands to the southward and eastward. The north point of the Atoll is in Lat. 0° 55' N., Long. 73° 16' 18" E. ; hero are two channels of 34 fathoms* depth of water leading into the Atoll ; 2 miles distant to the south and S.E. inside the Atoll, arc two small islands; these are the most northern islands of the Atoll. To the W.S.W. of the north point of the Atoll, distant 10^ miles, is the moderate-sized island of Mah-fooree ; this island lies on the north-west part of the boundary, in Lat. 0° SC^ N., Long. 73° 7' 3" E. ; between these last two mentioned points numerous coral reefs, with safe passages between them, form the north boundary of the Atoll, having seven small islands inside the north part. Mah-foree island is well inhabited, has good fresh water, and plenty- of poultry, &c. In surveying this Atoll, we were dctiined under the lee of this island for fifteen days in the month of December, 1836, blowing in hard squalls, and fresh gales, from W. to W.N.W., with heavy showers of rain. A ship wishing to stop at this island, if from the northward, ought to enter the Atoll at its north extreme, and then steer to the S.W. and W., passing between some small islands, keeping in mind Mah-fooree is the most western island, and is the largest among those in the N.W. part of the Atoll. With Mah-fooree island beaiing W., distant 1 mile, in 10 fathoms, is a good anchorage. From Mah-fooree N. by E., distant 1^ miles, is the small island of Willce-gelly, on both sides of which there is a channel ; that on its west side, between it and Mah-fooree, is rather shoal, haviqg only 4 fathoms in it ; the other to the eastward of the island, is deep. Two small islands are situated in the inner part of this channel. Another broad* and safe channel is situated 4| to 5 miles from Mah-fooree, with it bearing S. 40° W. ; two small islands are also inside this channel, and bear from its entrance S. 34° E., distant 1^ miles. A ship may pass them either on their east or west sides. From Mah-fooree island a long bar- rier reef extends to the S.E. 4^ miles, on which are three small islands ; close to the southward of the south one, there is a good channel leading into the Atoll, with some coral patches about 1^ miles inside the centre ; 3 miles, S.S.E. of this last chan- nel is another ; here the boundary of the Atoll forms a deep bay, having this channel at the bottom of it, and bears from the centre of Mah-fooree island S. 32° £., distant 7 miles. Tin-a-doo island is the next principal island on the west side of tlio Atoll ; its centre is in lat 0° 31^' N., and Long. 72° 55' 48" E. The island is about 1 mile in extent, and contains about 200 inhabitants ; has good water, and a few aupplies. From this island, the boundar}' of the Atoll to the north forms a deep bay towards Mah-fooree island, and which would be dangerous for a ship to be drifted into in calms and light winds ; its direction from Tin-a-doo is N. 50° E., distant 19^ miles, which is the depth of the bay, and the entrance of the second channel south of Mah« fooree island, S. 32^ E., distance 7 miles, as formerly mentioned. Between this channel and Tia-a-doo island, along the boundary, are seven channels rjmq of the Digitized by^ ^'^'^*^^ MALDIVH ISLANDS. 605 best in Biiuaied 4 miie« to the N.E. of Tin-a-doo, and is off the cast cud of the reef which joinii the island ; there ai-e several heaps, or dry banks at low water, of coral •tones and sand along this boundary ; on two of them are some bushes. A ship coming from the westward or south-west would suppose Tin-a-doo the most northern iiiland of the Atoll. Should a ship wish to enter the Atoll, or if there is much chance of ;hor being drilled into the deep bight to the northward, she ought if pos- ftible to enter the Atoll, either by the small, but safe channel, between the south end of Tin-a-doo and an island with low bushes, and one single oocoa-nut tree on it. This channel is not more than 150 yards wide, and has 6 fathoms water in it. There 'u a much Urger channel, called by the natives the Kan-da-doo channel, being 1 mile in breadth, having not less than 6 and 7 fathoms water in it. This channel lies south from Tin-a-doo 3^ miles ; it is most convenient for ships ; its Lat. is QP 18^' N., Long. 72° 55' 48" E. Kan-da-doo is the name of the large island bounding the north side of this channel ; it is not inhabited. This island and Tin-a-doo are the most western islands of the Atoll. Two other islands lie to the south of the chminel, that forming the south side of the channel is not inhabited, but the second or southern one, which is the largest, is the residence of the Chief of the Atoll, called the Atoll Warree. The island is named Hoon-da-doo, and contains about 200 inha- bitants. Good water, poultry, &c., may be procured here ; good anchorage east of the island, from 27 to 35 fathoms water. From the Kan-da-doo channel to the southward, the S.W. boundary of the Atoll is one continued barrier of reef for 79 miles, thickly studded with small ishmds, which at a distance in some places look like one island. The S.W. point is in Lat. 0° 18' N., Long. 72° 58' 18" E. ; another point is in Lat. 0° 13' N., and Long. 73° 4' 48" E. Here is a good broad channel Iciiding into the Atoll between two larger islands, the western one named Fe-oor- warree, which is inhabited. Matura island is the most southern island in the Atoll, and is to the W.S.W. of the last-mentioned channel, 3 miles, in Lat. 0° 12' S., Long. 73° 7' 48" E. This island is also inhabited. A coral reef extends to the eastward of it I^ miles, dry at low water : close to the east point of this reef is a good channel leading into the Atoll N.N.W., having not less than 9 fathoms water in its shoale pbjiu&bB'BOO atoziXiS. — Between these two Atolls is 8 J miles from the north part of Moloque to the south part of Pha-lec-doo, on which is a small island called Ra-chec-doo, in Lat. 3° 19' N., Long. 73° 25' 48" E. ; but this channel ought not to be used by ships, as it is nearly filled up by a large lagoon reef, dry at low water, called Wah-ter-oo reef, leaving a small channel on each side from 2 to 3 miles broad, having no soundings in them. The channel near Moloque Atoll is the larger ; in both these channels the tides and currents run very strong, in which it is high water at three hours ; ilood to the east ; ebb to the west. Wah-ter-oo reef, situated between the two Atolls, is almost circular, and nearly 4 miles in diameter ; there are two low bushy islands on its south part : between these islands is the only opening for a boat, leading into the lagoon within the reef, in which there are soundings from 12 to 20 fathoms on a white sandy bottom; there are some yonng cocoa-nut trees on these islands, as also some wells, in which the fresh water rises and falls with the tide, being drinkable only at low tide. There are no inhabitants on them. Should a ship be obliged to pass through this channel from the eastward, she may clear the western Atolls by passing between the channel separating north and south Nillandoo, distant about 30 miles to the S. W. ; and, should a ship coming from the westward enter the channel between the north and south Nillandoo, she may clear the eastern Atolls by passing through the channel between Moloque and Wah-ter-oo reef, or Pha-lee-doo Atoll and the reef; and, if the winds will not allow her doing so, she can steer to the S.E. round the south of Moloque, or to the north round Pha-lee 6 miles^ is the moderate-sized island of To-aoop about 1^ miles in length, by 1 mile in breadth ; it stands by itself, detached from any Atoll or reefs ; it is steep^ and safe to approach, the reef which surrounds it not extending more than 160 yards from the trees; its centre is in Lat. 4° 25J' N., Long. 72° 56' 18" B. It contains between 200 and 300 inhabitants, has good water, and some supplies ; the natives on it are principally employed in fishing. To-doo island, Ross' Atoll, and the north part of An Atoll, bound the south part of the west entrance to the Cai'diva 616 Islands in dhe Indian ockaN. channel. The cast side of Ari Atoll abounds with numerous channels leading into the Atoll ; some of them are small, but all safe, if a good look-out is kept. On theS.E. part of the Atoll there is a large island called Dhig-hoorah, its north part in Lat. 3^ 33 V N., Long. 72° 54' 48" E. This island is inhabited. To the north of it, 1 mile, is a broad channel leading into the Atoll. Between it and the south point of a reef, extending to the sonth 2 miles, from the island of Dun-gah-tee, an inhabited island, lying 4 miles N. by E. from Dhig-hoorah; five miles to the S.W. of Dhig-hoorah is one I'eef, on which are three smaller islands, then two other larger ones, inhabited ; the most southern one is Ari-ad-doo, and is on the extreme sonth point of the Atoll, in Lat. 3° SOf N., Long. 72° 49' 48" B. ; on either side of it is a safe channel leading into the Atoll ; to the westward and north of Ari-ad-doo, 8 miles, is one continued barrier reef, on the S.W. boundary of the Atoll, on which are few islands. There are numerous large coral reefs within the Atoll, which are not all diy at low water, some having 2 and 3 fathoms on them : many of the large coral reefs whose edges are dry at low water, have deep lagoons inside of them ; all may be avoided on a clear day with a good look-out. The general depths in the Atoll are from 30 to 40 fathoms ; the tides on the springs are felt in this Atoll. "BOVTB BCAXiB ATOZ&.— This is one of the eastern Atolls, and is situated between Pha-lee-doo Atoll and North Male Atoll, between Lat. 3° 49' and 4° 8' N., and between Long. 73° 19' 18" and 73° 30' 48" E. ; its greatest length N. by E, and S. by W. 20 miles, and 12 miles broad near the northern part It contains 22 islands, three only of which are inhabited by about 200 people. None of the islands aiSbrd good water or supplies; they are all situated on the eastern side, except three on the western. Where ishinds are situated, there are safe channels to enter the Atoll ; sometimes on both sides of the islands — excepting the smaller islands on the S.E, boundary, which are on a long and broad barrier reef, extending round the south side of the Atoll for 8 miles, leaving a channel on the S.W. part of the Atoll, with a heap of dry coral rocks on the west side of the entrance. The channel is half a mile broad, and hiut soundings in it I'rom 6 to 8 fathoms. The west side of the Atoll is nearly a straight line, in Long. 73° 19' 48" E. There are several jwfe channels on this side, particularly one, in Lat. 4° IJ' N. On the N.W. part are several channels, but they are small. On the N. part of the Atoll are two small islands, the easternmost, called War-doo, in Lat. 4° 7i' N., and Long. 73° 25' 33" E.; the westernmost small island is called Yillar-sarroo ; between them is a good channel leading into the Atoll, as also another channel to the east of War-doo ; from thence, to the N.K. pai't of the Atoll, 4 miles, is one large reef, on the east part of which is a small island called Finorali, dose to the south of which is a broad channel leading into the Atoll. A small island just within this Atoll faces this channel, and is named Heemboo-doo. The general depth in this Atoll is from 25 to 32 fathoms, sandy r bottom ; it is full of ree& and little coral patches, but these are easily avoided by a good look-out from the masthead. "IVJUt-SOO OBAXnra&.— This channel is formed between the south part of North Male Atoll and the north part of the South Male ; it is only 2) miles broad; its N.E. side is bounded by the island of Male, or King's island^ in Lat. 4° 10' N., Long. 73° 28' 48" E.; the S»E. side by the reef and island of Finorali, in Lat. 4° 6' N., Long. 73° 20' 48" E. ; its western entrance faces Ari Digitized by Google Jl^rds Uuoe Jirjwc^rtx ZsIcuvSj^ ^^rr/y MmSUT^'cy^eCr andr o/* A^e/Jf otouhtful'tatthefi^'- 46 \r £g;xixaiLi or SixP. . A« t^' ,.P 1 T T S ^ I k..:^^J7 SO \ 2(r Gang-ei JO 136 40'\ no J?/?* 7r ^^?' *y' I 1(0.0 Pa.je^ en Digitized by LjOOQIC .- r^ 94 Digitized by Google CHAGOS ARCHIPELAGO. Bl7 Atoll. On it« N.W. boundary is the small island of Ge-rar-ver, on the S.W. part of Male Atoll, in Lat. 4P Hi' N., Long. 73° 22' 48" E. The S.W. boundary is the north part of South Male and the small island of Yilla-sarroo, in Lat. 4P 7' N., Lung. 73° 24' 48'' £. This channel may be used by ships which cannot pass through the Cardiva channel. After entering by the westward, the direction of the War-doo channel is cast and west 8 miles. The tides are very strong in this channel ; the flood-tide to the east, the ebb to the west. During the Monsoons, when the tides are increased in strength by the currents, they run with great velocity, 4 miles an hour, and cause a great rippling in the sea, setting in whirlpools ; difficult in light winds to steer a ship through. There is no bottom in this channel at 200 fathoms. From the west entrance of War-doo Channel to Ari Atoll is 25 miles ; the space between them is free from danger ; from To-doo island, in the Cardiva channel, it bears S. 55° E., 30 miles distant." CHAGOS ARCHIPEtAGO. The following description of the Chagos archipelago is by Commandeb Mobesbv, of the Indian Navy, who surveyed the islands iu 1837-8. The longitudes are dependent upon Bombay Observatory, ascertained to be 72° 48' 4"*6 E.* *' The liberal means placed at my disposal enabled us to go over a great deal of ground, and to ascertain the limits of a great bank occiipying the whole space be- tween the outer ivlandn, which bank I have named the Great Chagos bank, the outer edge of which is dangerous for ships, having in some parts only 4 fathoms, and seldom more than 6 or 7 fathoms ; when over the edge the soundings suddenly deepen to 30 and 45 fathoms, with here and there patches of 8 and 6 fathoms. As a caution to navigators, I would advise them not to pass over this bank, except in a case of necessity, and that only in the day-time. Should a ship in the vicinity of these islands be in want of stock, water, and wood, it can easily be procured, without passing over or near this bank, by visiting cither Peros Banhos or Diego Garcia, both of which lie without the bank, and afford every facility for vessels touching there. Pigs and poultry may be obtained in abundance. Masters of vessels should not allow their seamen to cut down the cocoa trees for the sake of the nuts, as they can bo readily procured by other means. " DXSOO OA&CXA, or OAXAT OMAUOB IBlUkXl^, extends from Lat. 7° 13^ to 7° 26i' S., and a meridian line through its centre, is in Long. 72° 24' 48^^ E. The variation in 1837, by theodolite, 2° 20' W., and the dip of the magnetic needle 35° : the rise and fall of the tides from 5 to 6^ feet. The tides run into the har- bour to the S.S.E., and out N.N.W. It is high water at Ih. 30m. full and change; at spring tides, iu the entrance of the channel, from its being contracted, the tides run about 2 miles per hour, and unless a vessel has a fair wind, or a good slant, she would find it impossible to work in to anchorage against the tide. This is fre« quently the case during the S.E. trade winds, which blow generally directly out of the harbour. I would advise a vessel, wishing to touch at this island during these winds, to make the island from the east ; and so time her arrival off the entrance of * See note at foot of page 585. Befer to the charts of the Chagos Arohipdago, published by the Hydrogrraphlc Office, Admiralty, Noe. 3 and i. Also, to the plan of the islands, iiLt|te sbGekof Plans of Islands in the Indian Ocean, issued by the publishers of this work, by vJO OgTC 618 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. the channel as to hare the tide in her favour to enter, when she can easily work in, as the channel is a mile hroad ; taking care not to approach too near to the reef, which extends to the westward from Middle island, which reef is very deceptive, having some shoal patches of coral off the western extreme, not easily discernible. The western island is steep, and can be safely approached : when inside the channel, the only care required is to have a look-out at the mast-head, to avoid the coral patches, few of which are in the centre of the bay, having 3 and 2^ fathoms on them. Care must be taken not to stand too close over to the islands bounding the eastern side of the channel, as there are several coral knolls about this part : a coral band, dry at low water, surrounds the inner part of the island, extending from 100 to 200 yai'ds off shore — this is easily seen. The best anchorage for a ship, during the S.£. trade, is at Minni Minny establishment, which bears from the centre of Middle island S. 29° £. 7 miles. At this place a ship anchors with the houses bearing S.£. or E.S.E., distant -| of a mile, and ^ of a mile off the shore reef, in 10 fathoms, sand, the water perfectly smooth, and boats able to land on the beach at low water. The fresh water in wells is close to the beach, and very excellent ; fire- wood also is equally available, and only requires cutting. In the N. W. Monsoon, the rainy season, this anchorage is rather a lee shore, and a chopping swell renders landing at times unpleasant. Vessels ought in this season, which is from the middle or beginning of December to the beginning or end of April, to anchor on the west side of the bay, under lee of the land near to point Marianne establishment, which bears from the centre of Middle island S. by E., distant 5| miles. A shoal bank of sand and coral extends off point Marianne, | of a mile into the bay, close to the edge of which a ship may anchor in 8 or 10 fathoms, soft sand. Point Marianne and the establishment is known by some high trees of the fir species. " The Oreat Cbavos Baakf of which Blair's bank, as mentioned by IIoBS- BUBGH, is only a part, occupies the centre of the Chagos archipelago. The S.W. point of this bank is nearly north from Diego Garcia, 32 miles, and in Lat. 6^ 42' S., Long. 72° 23' 48" E. ; it then takes a direction N. 30^ E. 3d miles, to iU easteni boundary, which is in Lat. 6° 8' S., Long. 72^ 44' 48" E. Between these two points it curves to the west 5 miles ; from the eastern boundary the bank continues to the N. by W. 29 miles, in Lat. 5° 40' S. j it then runs west 35 miles, which is the northern and eastern edge of it. On this part lies the island I have called Nelson's Lsland, in Lat. 5° 41' S., and Long. 72° 16' 48" E. The N.W. point of the Great Chagos bank is in Lat. 5° 49' S., and Long. 71° 33' 48" E. ; it then takes a direction to the S. by W. 18 miles, to the north Brother island ; it still continues further to the west, from 16 to 17 miles, and on its western edge lie the Eagle and Danger islands, the former in Lat. 6° 11' S., Long. 71° 17' 48" E., the latter in Lat. 6° 23' S., Long. 7P 12' 48" E. The bank then takes a sudden turn to the E.8.E. about 70 miles, passing to the northward of the Six islands, leaving a channel of 5 miles in breadth. The soundings on the edge of this bank are from 4 to 10 fathoms, sand and coral rock ; the shoal water on its edges is not very broad. I consider it very dangerous ; for, though the surveying vessels never found less water than 4 and 4| fathoms, a ship would do wrong to proceed over it without a good look-out, or adopting some of the channels which lead in. On some paiis of the verge of this bank not less than 7 and 8 fathoms is to be found : when inside the bank, the soundings deepca to 40 and 45 fathorasi soft clay. Several coral patcfaesi with Digitized by LjOOQIC CHAGOS ABCHIPELAGO. 619 7 and 8 fathoms on them, will be found in the interior of the bank— capital spota to anchor on. Fish, such as sharks and some red rock fish, are in abundance. " Pltt'a Bank is to the S.W. of the Great Chagos bank, about 17 miles ; between which there is a clear channel. The Six islands are on the northern side of this channel. This bank is of an oblong shape, N.W. and S.E., near 30 miles long, by 17 broad ; its southern extreme is in Lat. 7° 17' S., and Long. 71° 24' 48" E., the northern extreme in Lat. 6° 49' S., and Long. 71° !(/ 18" E., and bears from the centre of the Six islands S. 42° W., distant 13^ miles, between which and the bank is a good channel. " The trees on the Six islands are just discernible from the poop of a ship when on the northern end of the bank. This bank is dangerous on the north and north- eastern sides, or edges ; on some parts of this boundary we found 6 and 4 fathoms— there may be less ; on the centre of tl^ bank the soundings are deeper, from 17 to 20, and 24 fn thorns, soft bottom ; like the Great Chagos bank, it is steep all round. Close off the south end of this bank we had no soundings at 200 fathoms, yet at two miles* distance we obtained deep soundings on another bank, extending to the S.E. about 18 miles, on which we had from 110 to 135 fathoms, sand and shells. Pitt's bank ought to be avoided by navigators, more especially at night ; yet in the day- time it may be passed over, if a good look-out is kept, and the shoal patches avoided. There is good anchorage on the bank. " Ckuiffes Bank is a small bank 15 miles distant to the S.W. of the Pitt's, its centre is in Lat. 7° 22' S., and Long. 71° 3' 18" E. ; it is from 3 to 4 miles in ex- tent ; least water 8 fathoms, and 12 fathoms in the centre. There are no soundings near the bank at 200 fathoms. " Ctantiirlon** Baakp to the S.W. of the Ganges, 18 miles ; between them are no soundings ; the least water on this bank is 7 fathoms, on the N.E. edge, where wo observed the heavy rollers breaking at times, and where two of our boats were in danger of being swamped. We anchored on the centre of it in 14 fathoms ; it is from 3 to 4 miles in extent, and in Lat. 7° 37' S., and Long. 70^ 51' 48" E. There are no soundings close to the bank. " Owen's Bank is supposed to be in Long. 70^ 6' 48" E., yet, as I place Diego Garcia 8' more east, Owen's bank will be in Lat. 6° 46J' S., and Long. 70^ 14' 48" E. We did not explore this bank. ** 8iz Islands, bearing from Diego Garcia N. 62° W. (true), distant 60^ miles. One of the largest islands of the group, on which the proprietor has built his maga- zines and establishment for coooa-nut oil, is the south-easternmost island ) it is in Lat. 6° 4/Of S., and Long. 71° 21' 18" E. From this, other five islands lie on the circular edge of a coral reef, extending to the N.W. by W. 5 miles; the northern islands have conspicuous trees on them j there are no channels between the islands, nor soundings close to the reef, which is of an oval shape, having a lagoon in its centre, and depth of water in it from 8 to 12 fathoms; it is full of coral knolls. There is a wide channel leading into this lagoon on the north side of the circle ; but only small vessels can enter, as 3 fathoms is the greatest depth of water on the edge of the reef. We found no coral bank extending off to the S. W. The reef is steep close to the breakers. The current and tides sometimes wash the loose sand off the reef to leeward, discolouring the blue water for half a mile, which we took to be shoal water fit for anchorage, until we found we were deceived. These islands produee 6000 Digitized by LjOOQIC 6^0 ISLAlfDS In trtt INDIAN OCEAN. gallons of oil yearly. Pigs and poultry in abundance ; also pigeons, and the fat tail land crab, which are numerous. Fresh water is also easily procured ; but should a vessel be in want of these articles, Diego Garcia, or Peros Bauhos, as also Eagle island, arc more convenient for anchoring and landing. "Sanger X«iaii4, in Lat. 6° 23' S., Long. 71° 13' 18" E., is to the N.W. of the Six islands, and lies on the western edge of the Great Chagos bank. The island is nearly 1\ miles in extent, low, and covered with trees ; we could not land on it fi"om the violence of the surf. It is said to be full of wild poultry, and belongs to tlic proprietor of Eagle island. S. by W. from the island, distant from 2 to 3 miles, a dangerous reef extends, on which the sea breaks at times. There is good anchorage to the east of the island in 17 fathoms water, which is on the Great Chagos bank. "Sagle Xffland, to the N.N.E. of Danger island, 12 miles, is 2^ miles in extent, N.E. and S.W., by J to } mile broad, and lies also on the western edge of the Great Chagos bank. The island is covered with cocoa-trees, and some high jungle trees on its S. W. point,o(r which a breaking reef extends ^ a mile. To the S. W. of Eagle island, distant 2 miles, lies a woody island, half way between which and Eagle island there is a good channel, and anchorage in 7 or 8 fathoms water, sandy and coral bottom between the two islands, taking care not to stand to the northward of the transit line between the two islands, as the bank suddenly ceases. There are no soundings or anchorage to the N.W. of Eagle island, unless a ship would run the risk of anchoring pn the bank of coral reef, extending 300 yai*ds from the island, on which there is 5 and 6 fathoms ; but this is a dangerous place in case of a shid of wind. The village lies at the N.W. side of the island, near the centre, and is in Lat. 6° 11' S. and Long. 71° 17' 48" E. The landing-place is opposite the village ; it is bad during the N.W. winds from December to May, but good during the S.E. trade; landing should never be attempted on any other part of the island, it being dangerous. A ship requiring supplies of wood, water, and poultry, may easily obtain them at this island, and may anchor as before-mentioned between the two islands. The proprietor of this island obtains 3'early about 6000 gallons of cocoa-nut oil, a small quantity of cotton, soap, and tortoise-shell. Salt fish is also exported. " The Three Brotbers, small islands, as before-mentioned, situated on the N.W. verge of the Chagos bank, and 12 to 14 miles to the eastward of Eagle island, are small woody islands covered with cocoa-nut trees. They are not inhabited, j-et belong to the proprietor of Eagle island ; the centre one is in Lat. 6° 8^ S., and Long. 71° 30' 48" E. ; from this, the South Brother, the largest, lies 2 miles to the S. W., and the North Brother, the smallest, 2 miles to the N.W. These islands are diffi- cult to land upon, on account of the high surf; excepting the middle one, round which, on the east side, there is a lagoon reef, and on the north part there is a channel lead- ing to the Middle Brother ; this island does not afford water. There is anchorage to the eastward of the Brothers in various depths, from 12 to 40 fathoms — ^the shoaler part near the North Bmther ; off the South Brother a reef extends ; between the South and Middle Brother there is a channel having in tlie centre a rocky islet, on each side of which the soundings are from 12 to 20 fathoms. Between the North and Middle Brother is a good channel, from 35 to 25 fathoms. Close to the S.W. side of the Brothers a deep channel, with 40 and 50 fathoms in it, leads on the Great Chagos bank, on the verge of which, both to the N. and S.W. of the Brothers, there are some dangerous shoal spots. •'irelfon Island, in Lat. 6^ 40 J' S. and Long. 72° If^'i^i^^bylJ^igp, the nort CHAGOS ARCHIPELAGO. 621 and eaatern verge of the Great Ohagos bank, was discovered by Captain Dixon, of the Sivera, and by Captain Bidin, of the Victory, in 1835, and seve- rally called by them Sivera and Nelson islands ; the latter name I have retained. It is a low rocky island, about 12 feet above the nea, composed of rocky cliffs of sand-stone ; the east and west ends of this island are covered with long grass and a few bushes ; it is nearly divided in two by a dry sand-bank, and seen from a little distance looks like two islands ; from one extreme to the other, east and west, is 1^ miles in length, by 400 or 500 yards broad ; there are no soundings close off its northern side ; on the east and west are several shoal spots of 4 fathoms, on the verge of the Chagos bank ; yet there is a g()od deep channel of 25 fathoms close to the east side of this island, leading on the bank, where a vessel may anchor at any distance from the island in 16 to 17 fathoms, sand and coral. This island bears from the Victory's bank S. 31° B. distant 10 miles — ^between which tiiere are no sound- ings ; and from the S.W. island of the Salomon group S. 20° E. 21 miles. " Vlirtory Bankv in extent from 3 to 4 miles, having from 3 to 4 fathoms water on it. I consider it is a dangerous coral bank, for though we found not less than 3 fathoms, there may be less on some of the rocks. It was discovered by Captain Bidin, in the Victory, in 1835, and lies south from the Salomon islands, distant 11 miles, and is in Lat. 5° 33' S. and Long. 72° 11' 18" E. There are no soundings close off this bank. lOSv the largest group of the Chagos islands, and, excepting Die^u Garcia, the most valuable in the production of cocoa-nut oil (about 34,000 gallons yearly), is the property of a gentleman at Mauritius, whose overseer and negro apprentices, about 90 in number, manufacture the oil. This group was dis- covered by the French in 1744; their situation is between Lat. 5° 13 J' and 5° 27' S., and Long. 71° 41' 48" and 71° 55' 48* E. It forms nearly a square, of 60 miles in circuit, containing 27 islands of small extent, low, and covered with cocoa trees; nearly all are on the north and west sides ; two only being on the east side, four on the south side — two of which are barren rocky islands. Between all the northern islands are good channels leading in, having 8 and 10 fathoms water. The N.W. islands are connected by a barrier reef, which continues to the southward on the west side, as far as the middle of the group, where a good channel, -J of a mile wide, leads in, having 10 and 15 fathoms water in it. The barrier again commences on the southern side of this channel, and connects the islands on the southern and western sides ; it breaks off again into several channels on the centre of the south side, close to two small rocky islands, with bushes on them, Z»le Vactae BCarinet and Coin dn BCire. Here the barrier is lost altogether above water ; it can be traced under water, having 3, 5, and 7 fathoms on it. A vessel of 300 or 400 tons may pass over it, but the deeper parts ought to be chosen. A ship making Peros Banhos from the southward, or during the period of the S.E. trade winds, where a heavy swell rolls into the Atoll, would do well to enter by the southern channels, and anchor under the lee of the south westernmost island and reef, where there is an establishment of negro apprentices on Zsle dn Colni this island is the south westernmost island of the group, about 2 miles long: f of a mile from its east end lies a small island, with high forest trees ou it. Still more to the east of this small island, distant 1 mile, lies another small island, larger than the former, but covered with low trees, and is called Zale 3Poqnet \ close to this latter island ends the barrier reef, round which a vessel may steer to enter the group: the <^^lhere 622 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. between isle Foquet and isle Yache Marine being 2 miles wide, with 7, 8, and 10 fathoms water in it. From the channel, a west coarse, 3| miles, leads to the anchorage off isle du Coin, in 13 to 15 fathoms water, with the houses bearing S.W., distant abont 1 mile : wood, water, poultry, and some fruits and vegetables, may be obtained from the negroes. This is a good anchoring-plaoe daring the N.W. winds, or rainy season ; but as the northern islands are then more directly to windward, and afford better shelter for a vessel getting her supplies, I would recommend DIuuond Island from December to May : it is the north-westernmost island of the group, about 2 miles long, thickly covered with cocoa trees, and contains the principal eatoblishment, which is in Lat. 6° 15' S., Long. 71° 42' 4S" E. ; and due uortli 11 miles from the southern establishment. A vessel may have the use of tiat-bottomed boats to bring her water-casks off. There are abundance of poultry, fruit, vege- tables, and pigs. The anchorage is ^ a mile distant from the houses, bearing N.W. in 16 to 17 fathoms. A coral reef extends from the shore, 200 to 300 yards, which is dry at low water, and is steep close to its edge. A ship departing from this anchorage, proceeding to the northward, muy either proceed through any of the northern channels between the islands, or if the wind is far to tlie north, she can proceed through the eastern channel. In the centre of the group, on its eastern side, are two moderate-sized islands, covered with cocoa trees, and called Vetlte Ooqullage and Qrande Coqullage. Close to the northern island, Petitt> Coqnilage, there is a good channel of 14 to 15 fathoms depth of water in it ; between the two islands there is also 4 and 5 fathoms ; from the north side of the channel, at Petite Coqnilage, a reef, dry at low water, extends up to the N.E. island, called Zsle Taje» to the west of which there is a broad and safe channel. A ship making Peros Banhos from the N.W. during the N.W. winds, may either enter by the western channel, in the centre of the west side, or by Moresby's channel, which is the first channel on the north side, east of Diamond island. Moresby's Cliaiinel is f of a mile wide, and has 7 and 8 fathoms water in it, taking care not to approach too near the spit of sand and coral reef, extending off the east end of Diamond island 1^ miles ; and which bounds the west side of the channel, as do Moresby's islands the east, which are bold and safe to approach. The soundings increase in depth to 20 and 30 fathoms, soft bottom, when a vessel has entered the group. Coral knolls are numerous in the centre, and are very easily seen ; the sides of them are precipitous, none of them dry at low water, generally 2, 3, and 4 fathoms on them. Close out- side the barrier reef of the group we found no bottom at 200 fathoms. <* Benares Beef, or Sboal, discovered by us, is a most dangerous shoal coral patch, having only 1^ to 2 fathoms on it, and lies W. ^- S. from the west side of Diamond isle, distant 4^ miles. The sea seldom breaks on it ; it is about | a mile long N.W. and S.E., and lies outside tlie Peros Banhos group, consequently ought to be avoided by ships making the island from the N.W. There are no soundings near it, nor between the islands and it. ''It is high water at Peros Banhos at Ih. 30m., rise and fall from 6 to 6 feet; the ebb tide sets to the westward, flood to the eastward ; the ebb runs out of all tbe northern channels. " Salomon ZslandSf a circular group, containing five large and six smaller islets, is 11 miles in circumference, and has only one opening into it to the N.W. : this passage is narrow, being nearly blocked up by a shoal patch in the middle of the channel, on which there are only 1} and 2 fathoms. On the northern side of this Digitized by LjOOQIC CHAGOS ARCHIPELAGO. 623 patch the channel is the deepest, having 3 fathoms, and only 2 on the south side ; the principal island is the S. W. island, called hy Captain Blaie 8oddam'« tolandf and is in Lat. 5° 21 J' S., Lonjj. 72° 9^ 48'' E., and 14 miles to tlie east of the eastern side of the Pcros Banhos. The N.E. isUind of the Salomon's is called Zsle de Vasse, in Lat. 5° 18' S. and Long. 72° 12^ 18" E., and bears from the south end of Blen- heim reef (a dangerous breaking reef) S. 81° W. ; and distant 12 miles from the south end of Speaker bank, between which there are no soundings. "Blenheim Beef is a large lagoon reef, 6 miles in extent, north and south, b}' 2 miles broad ; on the south end there is an opening to the lagoon, and anchorage off it in 6 or 7 fathoms ; all other parts of the reef are steep, and have no soundings near. The rocks are generally covered at high water, excepting some large blocks of coral and sand-stone on its eastern side, perhaps the remains of three low sand}' islands, as seen by the Griffin, in 1749, and also by other ships. The centre of the reef is in Lat. 5° 12^ S., Long. 72° 24' 48" E., nearly south from the east verge of the Speaker's bank, distant 11 miles ; the vicinity of these dangers has been well surveyed by us, and we may confidently say no other danger exists but what we have observed. Between the Blenheim reef and Speaker bank there are no soundings. "Speaker Bank extends from Lat. 4° 44' to 5° 6' S., and between the longi- tudes of 72° 12' and 72° 25' E. It is nearly an oval shape, lying N.N.E. and S.S.W. about 24 miles, having a slight indentation on its S.E. side, like all the other banks of the Chagos ; its edges are the shoalest part ; the least water is 6 and 7 fathoms on its edges, excepting the south part, where we found only 4 fathoms; no doubt the sea would break here at times, when the long ocean-swell comes up with the S.E. trade. A ship ought to avoid this part; the water deepens on the centre of the bank to 15 and 22 fathoms, soil sand, and some spots of coral rock of 6 and 10 fathoms ; the whole bank is sand and small coral. There are no soundings to be obtained close outside the bank. " The currents about the Chagos are generally with the wind ; four months, from the middle of December to the middle of April, to the eastward ; during June, July, August, and September, to the westward, varying occasionally a little to the north or south of this direction. April and part of May the winds and currents are variable, all November and December tlie same : we found the greatest velocity' of these currents to be 2 miles per hour on the great Chagos bank ; this was when the tide and cun'ent ran in the same direction. There are regular tides on the banks and islands ; the flood sets to the E.S.E., and the ebb to the W.N.W. ; high water, lull and change, Ih. 30m. Sometimes the tides and currents run obliquely to each other, or against each other, in which case the currents are retarded or accelerated, causing ripplings, and if there is much breeze, the swell becomes short, and confused, and on the shoaler parts of the banks heavy rollers break at times, each wave having a rise and fall (by measurement) from 15 to 18 feet : this alone ought to prevent ships crossing these banks when there is much swell, yet, as I observed before, they are easily avoided, and the islands approached with safety. Supplies are readily procured by ships in want of them." Digitized by Google 024 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. ANDAMAN ISLANDS. Tliese islands extend from Lat. 10^ 27' to 14° 56' N., and between Long. 92° 25' and 93° 45' G. They contain many fine harbours and anchorages capable of receiving fleets of tlie largest vessels, but are seldom visited, as there are no places of trade. The inhabitants bear the reputation of being extremely treacherous ; hence it is necessary on landing to take all possible precautions against being attacked and cnt off from the boats ; but very little is really known of the natives of these islands beyond what is contained in occasional notices of shipwrecks, and these invariably represent them as irreclaimably savage, implacable, hostile, and inhospitable.* The islands are covered with dense forest, and there is abundance of fresh water. At Port Blair, in Lat. 11° 43', a convict settlement has recently been formed by the Govern- ment of India. The Andamans were partially surveyed by Lieutenant Blaib and Captain MooBSOM in 1789 — 1790, and in 1858 by the committee appointed by the Governor- General of India to discover a suitable place for a convict settlement. It is mainly from the reports of these surveys that the following description of the islands is derived. 9MMBAMIB9 the northernmost of the Andamans, is 4} miles long, in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. (true) direction, and very narrow, being not more than a mile wide in its broadest part. It is of moderate height, covered with wood, and slopes gradually to the sea. On its east side, at a few paces from a fine, sandy beach formed between two ledges of rock, where boats can laud with safety, there is a pond of fresh water very convenient for watering ; from it the highest part of tlte island bears N. W. This east side of the island is very steep, there being at a very short distance from it a depth of 10 fathoms, rapidly deepening to 17 and 22 fathoms. The north end of the island i^ in Lat. 14° 54' 30" N., and Long. 93° 43' 30* E.f Both the east and west shores of Preparis island are bordered by a reef, which \s prolonged southerly from its south end 3^ miles ; upon it are some rocks above water. This reef is extremely dangerous, its edge being very steep, and the soundings near it are such that the lead gives little indication of its vicinity. At about 1^ miles from the north end of Preparis there are some islet.om the heavy south-west swell of the Bay of Bengal, and afford facilities for careening vessels in safety, of both the inlands it maybe said that they hare a fine sandy beach all round, one or two commodious bays, and good anchorage, and that at the souUtern extremity of each there is a reef of rocks exteuding several miles into the sea. Both islands also are uninhabited. The Burmese occupy the Gieut Coco during the whole of the Xorth-cast Monsoon, leaving it at the commencement of the South-west Monsoon, when it is probably less healthy ; they say that whatever sickness prevails among them origi- nates at Little Coco, and that they generally improve in health on their return to Great Coco. Little Coco is a very marshy, and of course unhealthy, place ; for this reason the Burmese only make short trips to It to obtain cocoa-nuts, which are very abundant.** — lieport m^tJ^f^ ^u'^lJ^^^'O^f^ 626 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. distance from it a depth of 10 to 17 fathoms. Fresh water may possibly be obtain- able on the east side of the island. The anchorage at Little Coco island u said to be eastward of it at a moderate distance from the land ; and also off its north-west end, with soundmga gradoally decreasing to the reef bordering the shore. It is also stated that boats may land at a ftandy bay on the west side of the island. The channel south of Little Coco island, between it and Landfall island off the north end of North Andaman, is about 20 miles wide, and from 12 to 40 fathoms deep for a distance (east and west) of about 18 miles, when bottom will be suddenly lost sounding in 100 fathoms. The ground is coral, but occasionally sand and mud. During the North-east Monsoon the current sets frequently through this channel to the North-westward; in the South-west Monsoon it flows mostly to the eastward; in fine settled weather the prevailing currents are flood N.N.E., ebb S.S.W. When sailing between Little Coco and Landfall islands it is necessary to maintain n good look-out, it being probable that more reefs exist than are inserted in charts. In 1809 the Daphne (drawing 10 feet) is said to have struck on a rock at about 5 miles S. by W. from the south-east end of Little Coco; alongside it rocks were yisible under water; and from the vessel's deck the surf breaking on the shore of the island could not be seen, hence the estimated distance of 5 miles may not be greatly in error. CMtBAT AXTDABKAir. — ^The three principal islands of the gi'oup are so closely connected together that for all practical purposes they may be considered as one island, which is hence called Great Andaman. The straits dividing them can only be navigated by boats at high water. The islands are named North, Middle, and South Andaman. They are surrounded by a bank of soundings which extends west- ward from them about 20 miles, and eastward not more than 5 to 8 miles. The outlying islands, in addition to Preparis and the Coco islets, already noticed, are Narcondam, Barren, Little Andaman, and the Sentinels. In our own description we shall follow the east coast commencing at Cape Price, and afterwards add a few remarks on the west coast. But Coast of tlie AadaaiiiaBS«-^The northern Andaman island is aboat 44 miles long in a north and south direction, and 14 miles broad in its widest part. Cape Price, its north point, has an islet named Pocock off its east side, which is surrounded by a reef and separated from the shore by a narrow and possibly a navigable channel. At 16 miles southward from Cape Price is Port Comwalliii, a splendid land-locked harbour, which contains excellent anchorage ground, sheltered from all winds, with good holding, and is sufficiently capacious to accommodate a fleet of the largest vessels. This lippears to be the only harbour in the northern island. The surface is so densely covered with wood that it is almost impossible to penetrate into the interior, and it is related by Db. Mouat, in 1857, that his exploring party could never proceed more than 5 or 6 miles in a day, and then it was almost always necessary to cut a path through the jungle. At the north end of the North Andaman are some islands and reefs, the largest nnd most elevsted of which is Landfall island ; this island, and that next eastward of it. East island, are seated on a reef, and it is probable that there is no passage between them. West isUnd is about 7 miles south-westward from Landfall island, is distant from capeThornhill about 3 miles in a northerly direction, and is also surrounded by a reef* South-wentward of West island and nearer the shore are CM Digitized by ' ANDAMAN ISLANDS. $27 islands, having rocks about them. The paiBsage between Landfall and East islands and the shore in named Pondicherry, a French ship of that name having passed through it ; it should be used only with the greatest circumspection, the survey of it having been indifferently executed, and a reef named Cleugh being in mid-channel ; there is also much rocky ground, many shoal spots, and numerous over&Us scattered about. In the western and middle parts of the channel the soundings vary from 18 to 10 fathoms. The flood sets eastward through it, and the ebb westward. Vnlon &edffe« 4uc. — The outermost of the known reefs off the north-east end of the North Andaman is Union ledge, a reef of 6 feet water at low tide, situated about 8 miles E. by S. from cape Price, or in Lat. 13° 32' N. The TaokBon, a ledge of similar depth, is distant 3 miles due east from East island ; and between them is the Haaffer, a reef of only 4 feet at a corresponding period of tide. These reefs are all so steep that the lead gives but little indication of their vicinity. The most danger- ous, from its situation, is the Union, which is the more difficult to avoid, as it is only about 3 miles within the edge of the bank of soundings. At a very short distance from the eastern edge of the Union are soundings of 30 to 40 fathoms, and from the same side of the Jackson 8 fathoms, which rapidly deepens to 20 fathoms. As these shoals are extremely dangerous, and it is probable that all the reefs in this neigh- bourhood have not been discovered, it' is strongly recommended to give this part of the Andamans a wide berth in passing, especially at night or thick weather. LiBUTBNA,NT Blaib*8 remarks upon Union Ledge, &c. are as follows : — '* Outside the opposite bearings of Table islands and Pocock island the soundings are more regular than inside those bearings, deepening to 30 and 35 fathoms at about two leagues from the land. The navigator must not be deceived, by this false appearance, for immediately beyond the deptli of 35 fathoms the water suddenly shoals to 20 fathoms, which depth will be found within 100 yards of Union ledge, on which there is only one fathom at low water. The greatest extent of this very dangerous ledge is about i a mile in the direction of the meridian ; the breadth about 300 yards. The soundings are a little irregular even to eastward of this ledge, there being 20 fathoms immediately without it, and beyond that depth so little as 12 and 10 fathoms, whence it deepens to 30, 60, and 76 fathoms, and at the dist>ance of 4 miles eastward of the ledge there is no ground with 110 fathoms. From Union ledge, Pocock island bears W. 26'' N. (true) distant 7 miles, and the eastern Table island S. 30° W. (true) the same distance. Many lines of soundings have been run between Union and Jackson ledges, and as the depth is very unequal, this part should be avoided, although no dangers have been discovered in it. " Jackson ledge is situated one league East {true) from the north extremity of East island ; its extent, in a south-east direction, is nearly | a mile, and the breadth a i of a mile, and the least water found on it was one fathom. North-westward from this, at the distance of a mile, is situated Ranger reef, a small circular spot of 100 yards diameter, with only 4 feet on its shoalest part ; it bears from the north ex- tremity of East island E. by N. (true) 2 miles. Northward of these ledges I was very particular in sounding, and found very considerable irregularities in the depth, on some spots not more than 5 fathoms; but by a very diligent look-out from the masthead, I have no reason to think that there is any less than that depth northward of Banger ledge. The alarming inequalitiea of depth do not extend more than 2 miles northward of Ranger ledge, and there is a continuation of simitar soundings to westward, extending the same distance round East and Landfall i>lAnd#OOQLC 882 ^ 628 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. " There is a good and deep passage between East island and Ranger ledge,for which, however, there is no leading mark, the distance of Focock island being so great that any bearings of it would be too indeterminate; East island should be rounded very closely to avoid the ledges eastwai*d of it. During the South-west Monsoon I oon« sider it would be improper to attempt this channel, for a ship rounding East island as close as it can be done with safety, would have great difficulty in weathering Jackson and Union ledges." VOBT COmrWT A lilblS. — At nearly 17 miles southward from cape Price is Port Comwallis, a large land-locked bay previously mentioned. Midway, or perhaps nearer the bay, are some islets at a considerable distance from the shore, but con- nected thereto by a reef, named Table islands ; as these islets are surrounded by a reef, the outer edge of which is probably at some distance from them, and is besides 80 steep as to have a depth of 17 and 20 fathoms dose to it, they must be approached with the greatest precaution. Lieutenant Blaib mentions a coral reef which we supposed forms part of the reef upon which the islands are seated — " Th^ are sur- rounded to eastward with an extensive coral reef, and there is, besides this, a ledge of rocks, some of which just appear ; they bear from the east extremit}' of the islands S.S.E. 1^ miles, and there are 24 fathoms at a very small distance without the rocks." Port Comwallis consists of a bay extending about 6 miles in a north-westerly direction with an average breadth of 2^ miles. It is surrounded by elevated land densely covered with vegetation to the water's edge, and abounds with sliallow creeks which have not been examined ; there is an abundant supply of fresh water, and oysters, besides other varieties of shell-fish, are plentiful. The entrance from shore to shore is about 2 miles wide, but the navigable channel is contracted to less than half this width by a reef which runs off from the south point towards Boss island, an islet off the north point of the bay ; this islet is surrounded and connected to the north shore by a reef. In the bay there are several islets, the most considerable of which, named Chatham, is two miles long, and many years since was the seat of a settlement formed by the East India Company, but which was abandoned, the site proving unhealthy. The depth in mid-channel of the entrance is 18 fathoms, thence it decreases to 16, 14, 10, and 5 fathoms towards the head of the harbour. When within, a vessel will ride completely sheltered from all winds.* Lieutenant Blaib's remarks upon the port are as follows (1793) : — "The entrance of Port Comwallis is in Lat. 13° 17' N., being the first opening northward of Saddle mountain—and near that mountain its situation is marked with peculiar precision. The access is easy, the entrance being 2500 yards broad ; it ia bounded on the north * Port Cornwallis wts visited by Dr. Mouat in 1857, who sayt : ** The remains of the tettlf- ment on Chatham island were disentangled fVom the dense vegetation by which they were con- cealed with extreme dlfflculty. Fragments of the brickwork were found in excellent preservation , but ftll other traces of habitation were eflkced. A few cocoa-nut trees alone indicated the attempt to introduce economical plants not indigenous to the soil. According to Blair *s survey, the f^ea must have encroached on the north-eastern end of Chatham Inland some 40 or 50 feet. On the south-western extremity of the same island was on extensive mud bay, uncovered at low tide, skirted by btlts of mangrrove, with low flat country on the opposite shore in the same direction. The only sea surge that could reach the settlement was the north-east wind, which blows over a hmall portion of the northern aspect. To these causes— to the pestilential nature of th» mud- bank« when uncovered, and to the abundance of rank, reeking, decayed vegetation in every direc- uon— the exeeaslve unhealth&ness of the eaxly letUement was donbtlest du^'y'OOOQlC ANDAMAN ISLANDS. 629 tiide by a reef extending from Boss island, and on the 80uth side by South reef, a dangerous ledge separated by a narrow channel of 6 and 7 fathoms firom Dnndas point; from this reef an extremely narrow spit of 7 to 10 fathoms, but in one spot of only 3^ fathoms, extends nearly -^ a milo in a north-east direction. Atalanta ba}', immediately round Dundas Point, has soundings of 10 to 4 fathoms, and is a good pUce to anchor during the S.W. Monsoon. In nearly mid-channel of the bay, at two miles from the entrance, is a very small island, named St. George, sur* rounded by a coral reef, and having at low wat«r an area of about 300 yards ; from this island in time of war vessels might bo much annoyed in their progress up the harbour. At the extremity of the 4-fathom spit, extending 1 mile west from this island, there is a spot of coral which is almost dry at low water. ''Above St. George's island the harbour opens to the breadth of 2 miles and to the depth of 1^ miles, and contains excellent anchorage ; it is bounded on the east by Hood point and the east side of Minerva bay ; on the west by the east side of Chatham island and Shore point ; and on the north by Minerva bay. Perseverance point, and the continuation of the harbour. The ground is soil tenacious clay, and the depth regular, decreasing from 20 fathoms in the entrance to 10 and 9 fathoms abreast of Perseverance point; here the harbour is contracted to the breadth of 1600 3'ards by the shoulder of Chatham island to westward, and a continuation of the land in a direction ueai-ly North from Perseverance point, to the eastward. The harbour extends a mile north from Perseverance point, and beyond this there is a narrow and intricate channel which leads to a very 8ecui*e and convenient basin adjoining the northern point of Pil island. "The shoulder and north part of Chatham island is encompassed by a bank having a depth of 3 fathoms on the outer edge, which is about 300 yards from the inland. The continuation of this bank with a gentle curve and westerly direction joins the west point and embraces Ariel island, from the north part of which it takes a circuhir durection enclosing another commodious basin north of Ariel island, and then, by an easterly com*se, terminates at the north-west point of Wharf island. Within the margin already described, there is a very extensive mud bank, portions of which appear at low water ; it occupies a space of about 4 miles. This flat, named by us Shoal bay, is situated westward of Pil, Chatham, and Ariel islands ; it is of irre- gular form, with an entensive branch to the north-westward and several inlets to southward. " The two basins are well situated for the accommodation of vessels under repair, and are capable of being well defended. The range of the harbour being N.W., the prevailing winds (N.E. and S.W.) are fair for either entering or quitting the port. " At 1200 yards above Perseverance point there is a spring of fresh water which afforded in the month of February (1793) 150 tons per day, nor was there any per- ceptible diminution in this supply so late as the 6th of April, the latter part of the dry season. This spring is in a very convenient part of the harbour, and issues out of the ground at about 20 feet above highwater mark ; adjacent are two rills. " Near Hood point is another very productive spring. ' " The land in the vicinity of the harbour abounds with timber of excellent qualityi fit for all the purposes of shipping." If bound to port Cornwallis from the noHh-westward, the bank of soundings between Landfall and Little Cooo islands may be safely crossed in Lat.'^^^-4dl^|^8 6B0 ISLANDS m THE INDIAN OCEAN. this will give the former island a berth of about 4 miles, nearer than which it ehoald not, under ordinary circumBtances, be approached, it being probable that there are undiscovered reefs about it; during the S.W. Monsoon especially it should have a berth given to it of at least 3 miles. Having passed Landfall island, and hteered eastward 8 or 10 miles, a course may be directed to the southward in such a manner as to pass outside or eastward of Jackson and Union ledges, for which a good look-out must be maintained ; these reefs, it will be remembered, are very steep. In thick weather it is recommended, after passing Landfall island, to steer East until the bank of soundings is quite crossed, and the depth of 40 or 60 fathoms reached, and then in the course southward to keep along the edge of the bank, by which means Union ledge will be avoided. Orttffgy Zslaad. — At about 4 miles southward from port Coniwallis, following the coast, is a small island, named Craggy, connected to the shore by a reef, under or on the south side of which a vessel may anchor in 10 to 4 fathoms. Opposite this island is the Saddle mountain, the most elevated in the Andamans, eetimated to be 2400 feet high. It is covered with vegetation to its summit, is of considerable extent, and its eastern side appears broken by densely wooded ravines. When viewed from eastward or westward, two peaks rise into view, giving the mountain the appearance of a saddle ; hence its name. It is reported to be visible from a distance of about 60 miles. The coast hereabout is apparently well peopled. From Craggy island to Andaman strait, a distance of 15 to 18 miles, the land is hilly nearly to the water's edge, and affords no good landing-place. In one or two places a near approach reveals some tolerably deep caves. It has not been sur- veyed ; hence it is not known if it is clear of reefn. The soundings off it are reported to be regular to the distance of 5 miles, when the lead drops into 100 fathoms. Bonnd Islana. — ^Andaman strait is fronted by Sound island, the channel within which is named Stewart sound. Dh. Mouat says : " We steamed through Stewart sound, and right round Sound island, which is of an irregular quadrilateral shape, forming one side of a land-locked bay, accessible at all seasons to vessels of eveiy class. The island consisted of ridges of high land traversing it in all directions, and prolonged in spurs to the point of the bay indenting its margins. It was iiinged with belts of mangrove, and surroundecl by coral reefs, with occasional line sandy beaches. " Towards its southern end is a horseshoe-shaped harbour, nearly three*qaarten» of a mile in depth, and rather more than half a mile in breadth. Its northern and eastern aspects are skirted by coral banks ; but in the rest of its extent it has good anchorage-ground for large vessels. " The ridge of hilly ground surrounding this bay is about 130 feet in height, and furnished an extremely grand and repeated echo on the firing of the evening and morning guns. " The existence of a practicable passage from the east to the west coast of the Gbeat Andaman, debouching at Interview island, had been left undetermined by Blair. The Pluto was next anchored off the mouth of Andaman strait, and a fast boat, with a strong picked crew, was sent to explore this strait, and ascertain how far it was navigable. After pulling through a very tortuous passage for several hours, our progress was arrested by finding that, at low tide, the mud was exposed in the main channel, and we had very great difficulty in ^tracing our^ ff^j^. ^The swampe and ANDAMAN ISLANDS. 631 Bunderbunds traversed for about a third of the breadth of the inland in this place were extremely putrid and pestilential. Vegetation was extremely luxuriant, but con- fined to mangroves. There was no trace of habitation or of animal life in the dense swamps bordering the strait. The fact of the non-existence of a passage for any useful purpose was fully established.** The Aroliipelaffo. — ^The Middle Andaman, commencing at Andaman strait, extends southward 50 miles, and is 16 miles broad in its widest part. It is ibr the most part hilly to the sea-shore. At 38 miles southward from Anda- man strait commences an archipelago of islandsi which has not been sufficiently examined to show what harbours it may contain; but enough is known of it to enable us to state that navigation among the islands is rendered extremely dangerous by coral reefs. It was on the south-east side of the largest island that the troop-ships Briton and Eunnymede were wrecked in November, 1844, when such was the hostility of the natives, that all attempts to hold amicable inter- course with them failed. These islands are represented as generally high, well wooded, and connected more or less with each other by reefs ; the bank of soundings probably extends eastward of them about 12 miles. The channel between them and the shore, named Diligent strait, has soundings of 30 to 8 fathoms, the latter being in its narrowest part, where the bottom is very irregular ; it is, consequently^, deep enough for the largest ships, but until properly surveyed, cannot be considered safe, as coral reefs are believed to exist that are not inserted on charts. When running through Diligent strait from southward, it is recommended to keep in mid-channel, making a frequent use of the lead ; if from northward, the two islands. North and Middle Button, are an excellent guide to the north-east entrance, which is 7 miles wide, and thence decreases in width to the middle of the strait, where it is only 2 or 3 miles wide. lu the northern part of the strait are some shoals, and reefs project from some of the islands and from the opposite shore. The anchorage in the middle of the strait is good, and well sheltered from easterly and westerly winds ; in the shoalest part the bottom is of rock. LiEiTTBNANT Blaib, 1793, says : " Northward from Middle strait (the channel separating South from Middle Andaman) there are great inequalities in the surface of the land, some parts low and others rising very abruptly, and nearly insulated by the sea ; the direction is N.E. by N., but deeply indented with bays and inlets ; th j soundings are regular, and there are no dangers without the depths of 10 fathoms. The distance to Strait island is 13 miles in a N.£. direction. Here the Archipelago contracts the breadth of Diligent strait to 3 leagues, and from Strait island to Round Hill {which is the narrowest part) the breadth is only one league. The number and variety of the islands, agreeably diversified with rugged clifis and luxuriant forest^% present a prospect beautiful and picturesque. On a near approach the caves appear, which are inhabited by innumerable flocks of the small swallow which make the edible bird's nest^so much valued by the Chinese as a delicacy and restorative. The principal cave is situated at the south point of Strait island, which is rocky, but not exceeding 40 feet in height. The entrance, which is washed by the tide, is an irregular aperture of about 6 feet wide, and the same height; on advancing 30 or 40 feet the height diminishes to 4 feet, and the bi*eadth increases to 20 feet. Here, it is rather dark, and very warm, and the tops and sides of the cave are covered with nests ; an astonishing number of birds, twittering and oa the wing, whisk past the ears and eyes, and this, contrasted with the melancholv.^noj^ f^^^^'f^ 632 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. reBOunding through the gloomy cavern, formed a very unoommon and interesting scene. The hirds are probably induced to choose this situation from the caves' being inaccessible either to snakes or quadrupeds, and probably defensible against birds of prey. The nests in general are in form of a quarter of a sphere, of 2i inches diameter ; of this shape, one of the sections being iinnly fixed to the rock, the other section leaves the nest open above. The substance is glutinous ; those most in estimation are white and semi-transparent. It has been doubtful, and various con* jectures have been formed, of what the nests ai*e composed. In smaller and more accessible caves I have observed a mucilage exuding from the rock, moistened by exhalations from the sea, which washes the lower part of these caves. This mucilage, on being lavigated and dried, had the texture, colour, and taste of the nest ; but what removed all my doubts of this being the substance was seeing the birds in immeuse numbers resorting to a cave very productive of the mucilage in the month of January, which is the season the birds build their nests. It ma}' now be presumed that the nests are neither of animal nor of vegetable, but of a mineral substance. ** In addition to the contraction of width of Diligent strait the soundings become very irregular, and there are many dangerous patches of coral on either side ; one in particular, half a league eastward from Strait island, is very dangerous. The spit, extending about the same distance noi-th from Round hill, the reefs connected with Aliddle and North Buttons, and an extensive and dangerous coral bank and reef to north-westward of those islands, should deter strangers from entering Diligent strait except in cases of necessity, when, should such a measure become necessary, strict attention to the following instruction, will lead through the strait in safety : — If entering from northward, first steer for the North Button, which is a small island i*cndered remarkable by several white cliffs ; pass to right (or N.W.) of it not exceed- ing one mile distant ; when abreast, steer N.E., and pass Middle Button, leaving it also to N.E., and observing the same distance ; when the last is brought to bear E.N.E. it will be necessary to alter the course to South, and to steer in that direction until the North Button is just perceived to eastward of Middle Button ; with this mark Hteer about S.W. by S., observing to keep the islands in the same position ; and this will lead through the narrow part of the strait clear of the dangers on either side. " The Archipelago appears to consist of eleven islands of various sizes. I speak with doubt, as the largest, or fourth island, ma}*- probably be intersected by narrow channels, which would increase the number. The south island, which is very small, bears from port Blair nearly E.N.E.. distant 7 leagues. It is surt*ounded by a coral bank to south and east ; the least water on it is 7 fathoms, except a small i-ecf from the south extremity, which has 3 fathoms about half a mile distant from the island. The passage between this and the second island is clear; the ground, coral, with some spots not exceeding the depth of 5 fathoms. " On the south extremity of the second island there are a few cocoa-nut trees ; it is moderately high, the migor part rocky, but covered with ti'ces, except some cliffs, which rise abruptly from the sea at the north-east end, near the north-west extre- mities. From the south point there is a reef, on which the sea breaks at half a mile from the shore. A bay is formed between the two northern points, but it is too shallow for ships* The passage between the second and third island is nearlj^ 2 miles broad, and clear of danger, with very deep water near the third island. " The third island is of a triangular form, with a considerable projection on the north bide. The south point, which is acute, is formed of high white cliffs ; one in Digitized by LjOOQIC AiJDAMAN Islands. tes particular, which is almost insulated, ha» in many situations the appearance of a sail. On the south-east side there are two small hays, and at the hottom of the northern one there are several cocoa-nnt trees at a place where some natives usually reside. The water is very deep on this part of the coast, about 40 fathoms, at 2 miles from the land. From the north-west angle to the north point of the projection the soundings are very regular. Close to this point there is a narrow channel of 7 fathoms over a reef which extends from the points of the island almost 3 miles in a north-east direction ; between this point of the reef and another extending from an angle of the fourth island there is another nsirrow channel. By the bug reef and the two islands a small but commodious harbour is formed. The passage between the third and fourth islands is shut up to eastward by coral reefs. The north-east angle of the third island must not be approached nearer than 3 miles, to avoid a coral reef, which appeared to be connected with the island. " The figure of the fourth island, as well as its surface, is very irregular, and the soundings around it correspond. On the east side, ships must not approach closer than 6 miles, as Minerva bank is situated at that distance to eastward of the island, and on some parts of the bank there is not more than 2^ fathoms at low water. The cast extreme of East island, N.N.W., leads eastward of the bank. The east side of the island is deeply indented, and some parts behind Bugged island may probably be insulated, llound Hill (which is remarkable from its regular shape, and being the highest land of the Archipelago) forms the north*east angle of this island : it is seen from a distance of 30 miles in clear weather. Eastward of this angle there are several banks, which run off a considerable distance. " The passage between the fourth and iiflh islands has deep water in the western entrance. At about the middle there is a reef from the fourth island. Across the eastern entrance there is a bar of sand and coral with only 3 fatlioms on it. " The fifth island is low, and almost bisected by the opposite bays. On the north and south sides of the island the water is deep, and the soundings are pretty regular. "The bays and inlets formed by the three islands north of Strait island (of which Long island is the northern) are too confined and intricate to be of material use, though they might afford shelter in the event of a vei^sel being driven in by distress. " Abreast of the south, opposite the middle, and towards the north extremity of Long island, there are three dangerous patches of coral about 2 miles distant iVom the island. To avoid these and the large coral shoal north-westward from the North Button, it will be safe not to approach that part of the coast nearer than the North Button, bearing North. " The small inlet in lat. 12^ 29' is very remarkable, having a bold bluff point on either side. The entrance is narrow, and there is not sufficient depth within for ships. There is an extensive reef from the north point, and there is rocky ground about half a league beyond it. From this part of the coast to lat. 12^ 45' the land rises rather abruptly to a considerable height." Middle Strait. — This narrow strait separates Middle Andaman froml South Andaman island. Its eastern entrance is in lat. 12° 3' N., or just within the southeni part of Diligent strait, whence it trends in a northerly direction, and has & general depth of 6 to 9 fathoms, excepting at the eastern entrance, where there is A bar of 9 to 12 feet; it is, consequently, not navigable. From [^^|eS^^74^^(5^PF^ 684 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. baj, 7 miles to the soathward^ the shore should not be approached nearer than 3 miles except with extra precaation, on account of possible off-shore dangers. LiBUTSNAKT Hbathcote, of the Indian Navy, says :--" The Middle Strait is one of peculiar formation ; it is» for the most part, a narrow, deep crevice between the mountains, by which it is bounded on both sides, and which are in no part distant from it much more than 300 yards, while at places the rocks completely overhang it. The cHannel is thus narrowed at one or two points to about 80 yards, its general breadth being from 400 to 600 yards. Its depth varies, but it is mostly deepest where it is narrowest, 25 &thoms being found where the rocks abut imme- diately upon the channel, and 6 fathoms where they are more distant ; a depth of from 12 to 14 fathoms is, however^ very generally found throughout the narrow part of the strait; its western portion, where it runs north and south, being both broader and shallower. Its western entranoe from the sea has now (1857) a depth of from 4 to 6 fathoms, it having been filled up to some extent during the hu$t seventy years, while the interior of the strait has suffered scarcely any perceptible change. We found no variation in the depth, nor in the contour of the shore ; even small islets of less than 50 yards in length appearing in precisely the same state as to size, elevation, and position, as represented by the first surveyor. But while the depths before mentioned are found in the strait itself, its eastern mouth is almost closed by a bank of sand and mud, which has only from 6 to 10 feet water on it ; and this, I believe, may be looked upon as the effect of the current of thb aW. Monsoon, which being driven upon the west coast of the island, finds its way through this narrow strait, and deposits at its exit the sediment which it had taken up or set in motion on its passage. The area of drainage of this strait, though small, is suffi- cient to throw into it a considerable quantity of silt and sand ; and the very form iji this bank indicates that it has come out J¥om the strait, and not that it has been thrown into it by any effort of the winds and currents of the N.E. Monsoon ; and moreover, were this latter the case, some corresponding efforts wouldj surely be observable at some of the other openings on the same side of the island, such as port Cornwallis, the entrances north and south of Sound island, and port Blair, at all which places instead of shoals we find deep water." Vert Keadowaf 4ko.-'Along the coast immediately south from Diligent strait are three islets, named port Meadows, Oyster and Shoal bays, of which the fiiU- named is the northernmost* Port Meadows is a small, but convenient harbour, with an island at the entrance, inside of which the depth is probably 10 to 7 fathoms. The channel on the north side of the island is unsafsi vessels therefore always use the south channel* although it is less than a quarter of a mile wide, and has two rocky patches of 24 to 27 feet in^ the fairway. The shores of the harbour have coral reefs off them. The surrounding land is generally low with extensive tracts of mangrove jungle, intersected by creeks, and forming several islands. Ojrster tej» two miles southward of Port Meadows, has soundings of 10 to 5 fathoms. Shoal bay, two miles further southward^ has a depth of only 18 to 4 feet } it is separated from Oyster bay by an island. WOVr BUkZB. — This is a large inlet or bay near the soutli end of South Andaman, the entrance to which is in Lat. 11^ 44' N. It has soundings from 30 fathoms at the entrance gradually decreasing to 3 fathoms nearly at the head of the bay, where the mud flats become cby at low tide. Facing the iidet there is a small Digitized by VjOOQ It 635 tome land •here here tthe and I has ance, ihore mile , the gsof ^hen mnel L the • the khout iingg large and miles The -ather ion of £8 the N ter- nd to ThiB a gale atlcal aving :elyto wntli* Qflider 3ar to eparis lan to reand sakln ingon leaky je,in. m the if she r Ibor roand ^ »lty In Digitized by VjOOQIC 684 bay. 7 miles c LiEi of pecq roounti from it Thecb breadt) where diatel^ of fron part oJ broade of fro sevent changi bmall ; aize, e depth] cloeed thia, ] which narroi motioi cient 1 this bi throw moreo obsen Cornv which are th namet an isl Thee south patch offth jUDgl Of fatho it is i PI Andfl 30 i\ ihel: Digitized by Google ANDAMAN ISLANDS. 685 islet named Bof»> the western »ide of which has a reef extending from it some distance ; upon this reef the depth is 2 to 4 fathoms. Within the hay is an island called Chatham. The country surrounding the inlet is extremely fertile, and there is much less of mangrove and swampy laud than at Port Comwaliis. Everywhere there is an abundance of wood and water, and the rocks abound in shell-fish.* When running into Port Blair, Boss island may be passed on either side, but the north side is the better channel, being wider than that south-west of the island, and also deeper, as it has a depth of 30 to 20 fathoms, while the south-west channel has only 5^ fathoms in its shofllest part. The anchorage is 2 miles within the entrance, near Chatham island, in 9 to 6 fathoms. Water can be obtained on the north shore of the harbour opposite Chatham islaud.t At about a mile S. by E. i E. fnHn the south end of Boss island, and half a mile from the shore, is the easternmost of two reefs of 9 and 16 feet respectively, the latter being the furthest from shore. As these reefs are steep, with soundings of 6 fathoms at a very short distance from them, extra precaution is necessary when sailing in their vicinity. It is probable that between them and the land is a channel of 8 and 9 fathoms. It will be prudent not to approach them nearer than the extremity of Atalanta point well open of South point, bearing N.W. ^ N., or the south point of Boss island, N.N.W. From Port Blair to the south point of the South Andaman the distance is about 14 miles, and the coast is bold throughout its whole extent. The bank of soundings is supposed to extend from it not more than 1^ mile. Rntlaad Xslaad. — At the south end of the South Andaman there is a large island, named Butland, separated from it by Macpherson's Strait, a narrow and intricate channel of 13 to 6 fathoms. The island is 10 miles long and 6 miles across in its widest part, well wooded, and abundantly supplied with water. The * *' When making Port Blair, the land from its north point will be observed to rise rather abruptly to a height which may be seen from a distance of more than 80 miles : a oontinaation of this for about 9 mUet, in a broken ridge. In the direction of North, very pointedly marks the situation of Port Blair. At the northern extremity of the ridge the descent is more gentle, ter- minating where Shoal bay is fonned,->it retreats to southward behind the high land, and to northward round an island where a second mouth is formed, which abounds with oysters. This extensive double inlet is too shallow for vessels. **~Lie(]T. Blair, 1798. t Port Blair is a fine harbour of reiVige, in which a vessel in the Bay of Bengal caught by a gale of wind and unable to keep the sea can find complete shelter. A correspondent of the *' Nautical Magazine," 1861, who writes under the signature of *' North," says, in reference to it, " On leaving the Sandheads in May, June, or July, and the weather has set in stormy, which is very likely to be the case haiiled on the starboard tack, and it will be very unusual if she cannot weather the Seyer Islands ; but if she cannot weather them the passage is safe inside of them, if they are not approached under four miles, so that she will soon afterwards be able to make over to the coast of Pedlar, and get round Acheen Head with facility by attending to Horsburgh'8 directions, and find little difficulty in reaching the Trade-wind, which at this season blows right home to the eauator." l^iOOQ LC 636 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. dense foretti covering its Bont-h side exhibits marks of exposure to the full force of the south- wesit Monsoon, the trees in many places being uprooted and for a considerable extent beaten down by the violence of the wind. The shores are difficult of access, and except in Macpherson's sti'ait, it contains no good liarbour. It is probably well peopled. KoeplieMoii's Strait is about 1^ mile? wide at the eastern entrance and 13 fathoms deep; in almost mid-channel there is a rock, — thence it trends north- westwai-d towards a number of islands and reefs named the Labyrinth islands, when the navigation becomes extremely intricate by numerous reefs of (K>ral. This part of the Andamans is very imperfectly represented in charts. Oflf the west end of Rutland island are two islets named the Twins, or Sisters.* They are about a mile from the shore, and the soundings between are 15 and 10 fathoms. It is prudent to give them a good berth, as a reef is said to project from them about a mile in a south-westerly direction, near which the depth is 9 to 13 fathoms. From Rutland island a bank of soundings extends 10 miles to the south-westward, upon which the depths arc 7 to 10 fathoms. There are rcisons for believing that some parts of this bank may be dangerous. Claqne Zslanda. — This is a group of islands off the south-east side of Rutland island, from which they arc separated by Manners strait, a channel 2 miles wide and 19 to 35 fathoms deep. They are moderately high, and joined together by a reef; a i*cef also extends about a mile from their southern end, and has upon it from 3 to 6 fathoms, — close to the outer edge of this reef are soundings of 27 to 25 fathoms. FaMm^e Xalaad, 4bO.— At 3} miles southward fi-om Cinque islands is an island named Passage island, having a rocky islet at a short distance north-westward from it. And at about 3^ miles south-eastward from these are two rocky islets named the Sistei-s ; these are close together and connected by a reef. VirmBT COAST or TBM AmAMAVS.— At about 7 miles westward from Cape Price is West island, a small low islet surrounded by a coral reef, some parts of which extend probably half a mile beyond high water mark ; in other respects the island is bold. Prom this island, westward, to the edge of the bank of soundings, the depths are regular, increasing from 12 to 16 fathoms in the first 6 miles, and thence gradually deepening to 40 fathoms close to the edge of the bank. Cape Thomhill southward of West island, and 7 miles south-westward from Cape Prioe, is a round hill of a regular form, having the appearance of being isolated by a narrow channel. At a short distance westward from ciipe Thornhill is Cliff island, a steep rocky islet apparently bold on its west side, and 2 miles southward of this islet is another of slight elevation surrounded b}' a reef, the channel between these is believed to be shallow. In a south-westerly direction from cape Thornhill, about 6 miles, is another promontory apparently isolated, and especially when viewed from the south- westward, there being on its south side an islet ; this promontory is low and flat, — in the entrance to the inlet are an islet and several coral reefs. On this part of the coast of the Andamans the ground is generally of coral, with * The correet lons^tadc of the Slaters, iceording to Ub* Bbadley, of H.ir.S. Fwe, )8iei li 02** 44' 40" E. (Madras Observatory, 80" 11' 10" JK ) Digitized by LjOOQIC ANDAMAN ISLANDS. 687 very grcai overfulU. lu a S.W. direction, 6 miles from the laBt-mentioned inlet, there is a dry rook at ahont 3 miles from the ooast ; and 6 miles farther in the same direction, at the same distance (3 miles) from the land, is a small flat island. North Heof island, 7 miles S.S.W. from the small flat island, has a reef jotting out from \in south side, 2 or 3 miles in a southerly direction ; on the east side of this island there is a deep water passage to Port Andaman, bat at about 2 miles from it in a south-easterly direction is a patch of rooky ground, over which are violent overfalls. Of the west coast of the Andamans but little is known, it being seldom visited, and perhaps less is known of the part between cape Price and Interview island than of the coast southward of that island. A bank of 20 to 30 fathoms, but having npon it numerous overfalls of 7 to 10 fathoms, and probably of 4 fathoms or even \esft, fronts it at the distauce of 15 to 20 miles ; the south end of this bank is in Lat. 13° 2f N., and is believed to be dangerous, — ^the north end is in Lat. 13° 25' N. Lieutenant Wales, I.N., of the Ranger, in his examination of the bank did not find a less depth than 7 fathoms, but supposed from the irregularity of the soundings and nature of the bottom, that there might bo less. A Captain Nimmo has reported as little as 4\ fathoms near the north end ; for which reason Lieutenant Blair says the bank should certainly be avoided by large vessels. Hobbbubgh says : " A country ship from Masulipatam bound to Pegu, at daylight, saw the Qreat Andaman bearirig East, and observed at noon in Lat. 13° O' N., then distant from the island or 10 leagnes. Hence she steered 3 or 4 miles eastward with a light breeze, and at 2 p.u. coral rocks wore perceived under her, covered apparently with so little water that the rudder seemed nearly to touch them, hauled instantly to the westward, and fioon got into deep water. The India ship Pitt, bound from Bengal to England, had the Saddle mountain bearing East 9 or 10 leagues, and the extremes of Great Andaman from N.E. by E. to S.E. by S. ; she then tacked in 14 fathoms, and when in stays had 8 fathoms, coral rocks. Standing northward with a light breeze, she had 11, 7i, 14, 16, 24, 18, 12 to 9 fathoms, in the first part of the night, then tacked and stood S.W. by S., deepening gradually till daylight. At sunrise the mountain bore E.N.E., and the extremes of the land from N.E. by N. to S.E. by S., distant 9 or 10 leagues, then in 60 fathoms. Between the shoal bank and the coast the soundings vary from 40 to 20 fathoms, and 15 fathoms near the land." * POST AJTBAMATr. — Interview island on the western side of this harbour is 13 miles long, and is everywhere surrounded by a broad belt of mangrove, except near its southern end, where the land is higher and more healthy-looking. It has but moderate elevation, probably furnishes an abundance of fresh water, and is * Caftaiiv Wiixiam Richabdson (1816) says:—** 31/ chief ofDcer ran due West on this bank for two leagues In 6 to 4^ fathoms. He supposed that to be its breadth, and that It runs lengthways north and south as the islands do.** ^^nn» Banl: — In an old chart of the Andaman Islands a banlc of 85 to 4 fathoms is repre- sented as extending from Lat 13° 12' to 19° 36' N., at about 43 miles westward of Great Anda- man ; — the depth, 35 fathoms, being at the south end, and that of 4 fathoms at the north end of trie banlc The existence of this bank is not credited, and it is probably the bank above alluded to. as it is between nearly the same latitudes, but diffeni considerably in longitude. Another bank, the existence of which is also doubted, is inserted in the same old chart at about 30 miles north-eastward of Minns Bank, in Lat. 31° 60' N., and between Longitudes 02° 16' and 92° S3' £. The soundings given are 68 to 30 ikthoms, the latter being the westernmost. We suspect that this is only the western edge of the bank of soundings surrounding the Andamans, reported by some shipmaster in error as to his poiltioo. ^.^.^.^^^ ^^ LjOOQ IC QS8 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. covered with dense vegetation, which showB evidence of exposure to the vioienoe of the south-west Monsoon. At some distance from its sonth end is an islet, named South reef, which is surrounded by and connected to the island by a reef. Between the isbmd and the coast are several islets and reefs. AU this part of the Andaraans has been very imperfectly examined.* TImt lalandf 4bO.— -At 18 miles southward from Port Andaman is a Rmall island close to the shore, and surrounded by a reef, named Flat island ; between are some reefs at various distances from the land. Hence southward to the north-western entrance of Middle strait the distance is about 16 miles ; this strait has already been mentioned; it need only be observed, therefore, that when visited by Db. Mouat in 1867, it was found to be for the greater part bounded by deep patches of stunted mangrove, the growth of which was evidently checked by the quantity of fresh water that falls into the strait during the Monsoons. Ooral Baaka. — ^These are two extensive banks of 4 to 20 fathoms, or lesf, water, situated about 16 miles off the west coast of the Andamans. The shoalest spot dis- covered (4 fathoms) is in Lat. 12° 34' N., and is only 4 miles within the edge of the bank of soundings. PO&T OAMFBHK&.— Port Campbell, the entrance to which is in Lat. IP 59' N., is an extremely fine harbour, and contains excellent anchorage in depths varying from 6 to 13 fathoms. Its extent is about 6 miles in a south-easterly direction. At tiie entrance are two islets, one on each side, of which that off the west point is named Montgomery *, from these, banks extend and contract the channel to a width of about half a mile. The channel being so narrow renders the harbour difficult of ingress and egress; but within, the shelter ia perfect, being almost land-locked. Near Montgomery island is a native village. Wood and water are abundant } MOVAT is a harbour within the Labyrinth islands at the south-west end of South Andaman, and nearly opposite Port Blair on the eastern coast, from the head of which it is distant about two miles. It is of considerable extent, well shel- tered, and bordered by low hills covered with lofty trees. It is accessible only from the south through the passage between the Labyrinth islands, a navigation far too difficult and dangerous to be used by vessels in distress during the S.W. Mon- soon. Db. Mouat, who discovered it in 1857, says : — " On attempting to run parallel to the coast in steaming northward, the coral iI>i. MoUAT, 1667. t ThU is acoording to the Admiralty chart, Ko. 896, edition ISM\ bnt the ohserratloiia of Mb. BBADur, of H.M.S. /hv, 1848, tend to show that the whole of the aouthem lilaads of the Andamans are placed in that chart 18 miles loo ihr eastward, henoe the oornot kn^tnde of tlii« Island is probably 92«> 15' E. (Madras Observatory being iu Long. f^f^^^^b^CibOQlC igi ize y g ANDAMAN ISLANDS. 639 It ig of snfBddni elevatioii to be seen from a distance of 18 or 20 miles, and is said to have a level summit and to be well wooded. Around it shoal water with reefs extends out about a mile. At its south end are two islets, and there is also one off its north-west side. It is probable that fresh water may be obtained from the island. Landing is represented as difficult. The bank of soundings on the west side of the Andamans does not extend out from the west side of the North Sentinel more than 3 or 4 miles, where thero lA no bottom with 100 fathoms. The soundings are 20 or 30 to 50 fathoms, with sand and coral towards the shore; in 40 to 60 fathoms it is generally oaze. r. — ^This island is about 27 miles long from north to south, and 13 miles across in its broadest part, which is in the middle. Its north end is 30 miles southward from Rutland island, or in Lat. 10^ 53' N. ; an^ its south end in Lat. 10° 2& N.* It is not very lofty, being visible only from a distance of about 20 miles, and when first seen has a level appearance ; it is described as rising with an easy swell towards the middle, or rather nearer the south end, and the whole is well wooded. The west and east coasts are believed to be clear of sunken dangers, except what are close to the shore; the soundings are mostly from 10 to 18 fathoms at one or two miles off, thence (in a distance of 5 or 6 miles) deepening to 50 or 55 fathoms, ader which bottom is lost at 100 fathoms. The south side is more steep, there being at a little eastward of its south-west point 38 to 40 fathoms within one or two miles of it, and no bottom at 3 or 4 miles from shore.f On the north-west side of the island there is a small bay, where vessels may anchor in 5 fathoms. At 5 or 6 miles W. by S. fiom the south-west point of Little Andaman is a bank of coral rocks, upon which the depth is said to be 6 and 7 fathoms ; but it may he less. Between it and the island are soundings of 12 to 20 fathoms. Sontb aenttneL — This is a small island situated 17 miles north-westward from the north-west side of Little Andaman, in about Lat. 10^ 58' N. It is only a mile in extent east and west, is well wooded, and has a reef projecting some distance from each end, over which the sea breaks heavily during the S.W. Monsoon. At about a quarter of a mile from its east end there is no bottom at 40 fathoms ; at nearly midway between it and Little Andaman, but nearer the latter, the depth is 45 and 50 futhoms, and thence gradually deci-eases eastward, until at 1 or 2 miles from that island it is 13 and 10 fathoms. Brotbers. — The Brothers are two small islets covered with trees, whereof those on the southern islet are described as rngged in appearance, and those on the northern islet as perfectly flat, hence the latter is sometimes called Flat island. Their position is 5 to 8 miles north-eastward from the north end of Little Andaman, and they are distant from each other about 3^ miles. A reef surrounds the North Brother, and projects from its northern and south-western sides nearly a mile ; the South Brother is also surrounded by a reef. Between the Brothers there is a ledge of rocks named Leeboard, the position of which (not well ascertained) is believed to be 2 miles N.E. from the southern islet ; thero is also a reef, Ariel ledge, at about * The totttli-eact point of Little Andaman, by the obeervations of the PanUh oonrette QoUahw^ U in Long. 92° 3o' iV En dependent npoa Fort Comwallii, Penansf, being 100*^ 30' 10'' £. The Utitude wae not atated. t This doee not agree with the Admlnaty ebart No. 88 & I3OOQ LC (MrO ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. li miiai Boatli-wesiorard from the same islet. The channel between the Brothers and Little Andaman, although 5 miles wide from shore to shore, and 6 to 10 fathoms deep, is so narrowed by Ariel ledge and the reef running out from the latter island, that it cannot be recommended and should be considered nnsafe; this remark applies eqcally to the channel between the Brothers. Bimoaa Paasaf^. — The channel north of Little Andaman, between it and Rutland island, derives its name from Captaik Ddncan, of the Gangeg, who sailed through it in 1760, and was probably the first European voyager who ti^vened i:. It is 27 to 30 miles wide from shore to shore; but only 13 miles wide, if the Brothen and Sisters islets are considered the southern and northern limits. The soobj- ings are 11 to 20 fathoms, and the navigation is believed to be safe, there bein^GO known danger besides what is represented on the chart.* If necessary, a vessri may anchor in the channel in 12 to 17 fathoms on sand, and proceed at oonvenieocr. A good look-ont should be maintained, the channel not having been surveyed. HoRSBUSGH says : — " In light breezes and fine weather, a kind of tide seU through the channels among these islands to the eastward and westward ; bet c times currents prevail, which are generally ^governed by the wind. In the X.£. Monsoon, on both sides of the islands, the current sets mostly to the S. W. or aontb* ward ; a ship running for Dnnoan passage should, therefore, endeavour to keep s little to the northward in this season, and to the southward in the oppo^ii^ Monsoon, according to the prevailing wind, that she may preserve a leading breeze U pass through the channel." I. — This is a small island, an extinct volcano, 2150 feet hi^ situated in Lat. 13° 28' N., and Long. 94° 17' 22" E. (fort Comwallis, Pftw?. being in 100° 20' 10" E.}. When viewed from a distance, it appears like a OQoe,ar pyramid, with its summit broken off. Close to its east side there is an islet, or rock. and off its south point another. It is not known if a bank of soundings sarroaod^i^ Barren Zalaad is a small island in Lat. 12° 1& N., and Long. 93° 55' 36' L according to the observations of the Danish corvette Galaihea,f It is «j^t 2970 yards in diameter, in shape nearly circular, and about 975 feet high. The ses around it is believed to be very deep, because at a short distance from it there l^ ^ bottom at 100 fathoms, except on its south-west side, where within the distance of a ^ of a mile are soundings of 4^ to 14 fathoms. Landing is difficult. When vs^^ in 1857 the island was covered with trees, and the sea in its immediate viciait^ was quite hot. The volcano is in an active state at intervals.^ • See the Admiralty chart, Na 835. t Dependent upon Fort ComwalliB, PenaDsr. being 100^ 20' 10" £. Mr. Bbadlev, of B.M-^ IHkk, 1848. made the island in Long. 93* 53' 45" £. t See a very interesting description of Barren Island in the ** Nautical Hagaxioe," 1^^* Although we say that the sen arouud Barren Island is believed to be very deep, it is poaa^ tliat there may be banks of soundings in its vicinity that have not boon discovered. Captain Sharrinoton of the Baltar, country ship, was reported to Iiave sUvok botton J" 4 fathoms at 6 or leagues S.S.B. from the iflaud. No further particulars are given, nor hiK any attempts been made to examine this bank, that we are aware of. " Looking to the interior of the island it Is well called * Barren Island,* fbr it is truly t riScf of desolation, dark and p^loomy ; but, as viewed from the sea, it is extremely fertile, all the ei«P^ seaward being clothed with thick vegetation, though of what kind I had no opportunity of f^^' There is no anchorage, and landing, except in very calm weatlier. Is not possible, as there is ^ one spot where a landing can be eifected, and the water must be very sUll to make it prtetiet^ even there. The sea becomea hot as yoa af^roaeh the landing-place^ #iUi(^mj^l>^' ^^ NICOBAIi ISLANDS. 641 •An extensive bank of 17 to 50 fiftthoms is situated between Latitades IP and IP 28^ N., and Longitudes 93^ n¥ and 93° 45' S. The ground near its outer edges consists frequently of oaze or sand, but well in upon the bank it is oocasionally foul and rocky, especially in the Ticinity of the Flat rock. The name '' Inybible" was given to it by Lieutenant Blaib, in 1790, because the water upon it did not appear to him to be discoloured, and showed little, if any, indication of the existence of the bank. TImt B0ok.— This very dangerous rook, situated in Lat IP & N., and Long. 93° 40^ E.,* is only 20 to 30 feet above the water, and not more than 100 feet in diameter ; it is, therefore, difficult to avoid in very calm weather, when the breakers do not show much, and at night ; hence the greatest care and vigilance must be exercised when in the vicinity. Rocky ground extends from it about twice its length, upon which the sea breaks in bad weather. At a short distance from it the depths are from 13 to 20 fathoms, coral and sand, which increase as you stand away from it on all sides to 30 and 40 fathoms towards the edge of the bank. When in the neighbourhood of the Fkt Bock the lead should be kept going, especially as its position has not been well ascertained. The soundings about it are not always regular. It is recommended when soundings are obtained to tack at once, and haul out into deep water. NIOOBAB ISLANDS. The ineoban— or Saiceilangs (Nine Islands) in Maky— are a bluster of islands southward of the An damans, between those islands and Sumatra. Some are of con- siderable size, and all are covered with trees and a dense vegetation. They are re« ported to be extremely unhealthy. Some of the islands contain good harbours, and to most of them a vessel may with care stand pretty close in, as the ooasts are re- markably free from detached sunken dangers. The principal and only moderately civilized island, that most frequented by country vessels, is Car Nicobar, the northernmost one. [The natives of this island have obtained the character of being very honest, kind, and hospitable, and many of them speak a little broken English. The Nicobars have not been surveyed ; the description we have of them is, con- sequently, imperfect. A partial examination of the islands has been made by the Danes, and a chart, the result of this examination, was published in 1846. Another reconnaissance was made by the officers of the Austrian frigate Novara, in 1858 ; and a chart of the islands was subsequently issued at Vienna. It is remarkable that the geographical positions in these two charts do not by any means agree, but differ in some instances so much as 8' to 20^ in longitude. The channels among the islands are safe to navigate, although at times there are very great ripplings and overfalls, which are alarming to siarangers ; the currents becomes tealding hot — t dronmttanee whleh oeoailoned a little merriment ; for lome of our men, not expecting anything of the kind, Jumped out of the host as usual into the water, and of course began dandng about rwy actively till they could either get in again or on shore."— Sev. Chables Parish, Bengal Service, 1862. * So inserted in the Admiralty chart No. 825, where also another position is given for it on the authority of Captain W. Owek, K.N., of HJI.S. Sec^flower, 1806— namely, Lat 11® 17' N.. Long. 9S» 29' E., which nearly agrees with what Mh. Bradley, of H.M.S. Far, supf •-- '-- correct position— namely, 9«* 26^ E, Digitized by' T T 642 ISIiANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. goienlly set Jkii and Wast through them. The shoree im in general lined with eofftl reefk, and most of tiie projecting points hare a reef jutting out from them ; henee a good look*out is always neoessaiy, and afree nse mnst be nude of the OMM anoomam has an extent of about 7 miles fSrom N.E. to S.W., and is nearly 6 miles broad. It is of moderate height except on its western side, and towards its south-east point, where the land rises into hills. There are Tillages all round tiie eoast, the inhabitants of which are fond of barter, being always ready to exchange produce fbr cloth and other goods. The position of the village of Saoui, at the north side of the island, according to the Navara's observations (taken on the reef) is Ut ^ 14/ ^ N., and Long. 92'' 44' 68" £.* The soundings around Car Nicobar, at a mile from the shore, average 20 (athoms on sand, or sand and coral, which rapidly increase seawards to 100 fathoms ; the edge of the bank is steep. Anchorage can be obtained almost anywhere, but the coral bottom makes it indifferent; the most eligible place is off the village of Saoui in 10 or 12 fathoms. The north-west point of Car Nicobar has a reef extending from it ; hence it ahouU have a good berth, especially as broken water is said to lie off it as much as 1^ miks. Captain Hay, of the lugUs, says that " a large ship should not approach it nearer than the depth of 14 or 12 fathoms, as I did, for the convenience of getting refiresh- ment quickly on board, having anchored abreast the village in 9^ fathoms at 1 mile distance, the north point bearing N.E. | N., the south point W. by S., with 30 fathoms of cable out— a rook was seen under the ship, having only 7^ fathoms on it. A ship ought to anchor at about half-way between the north-west point of the island and the village in 12 or 14 fathoms, sand, but never so near the village as did the Inglisrf 8ATTX BKA&VB. — ^This small island is distant from Car Nicobar about 18 mile? in a S. by E. direction, its centre being in Lat. 8"" 49^ N., Long. 92^ 61' 30* E.^ Its height is 160 to 200 feet; in shape it is nearly quadrangular, and it is not more than 1^ miles across. Its highest part is its west side, whence it slopes eastward, causing the island to resemble a wedge at a distance. The surface consists of bare rook so thinly covered with soil that only shrubs and a few scraggy trees will grow on it. There is no fresh water, and there are no inhabitants. • Annming the obsenratory at Madras to be 80° 14' 19" £. ; -all the Novanfa loogitadea of the Nioobar IshmdB are dependent upon this meridian. The Ncvara anchored In 14| fathoms, coral sand, at about two miles from the shore, between the villsjires of Ifosse and SaouJ. An approaeh to the shore to about three or four cables' length can be made, as the depth at that dSataace k about ten fathoms, clay. From the offing, Car Nicobar appears level, with a low eminence risiag towards its centre ; the coast is overgrown with cocoa-nut palm. The Danish corvette GalaUua made the Tillage of Saoni in Lat d"" 1 2' 43" N., Long. 9S° 4S' 30" £., dependent upon Fort ComwaUis. Penaug being 100^ 20' 10" £. t "There are a number of villages around the island of Car Nicobar. Tou can approach within 10 or 11 ikthoms, hoist all your colours, and you will soon have the natives off to show yoa the best place to anchor. Tell them what yon have oome for, and affcer you hare got your ship comfortably at an anchor, and decks cleared, show them your barter ; you will soon get ihaUliar with them. They are very forward in their manners, and take many liberties, but do not mesoi any harm. It is only Ibr the want of knowing better, being only half civilised ; therefov* od bo acooont get angry with them^thsy will do anything for kindness.'*— Ma. Majob, Agent Ibr Lloyd's, Maulmain. t The Danish oorrette Qalathca made its south point in Lst. 8° 50' 4"N., Long. 93^ 49' 55* B. NIOOBAB ISLANDS. 6*8 Batti Malre bleated on a bank of lonndinga, the extent of whioh is unknown. At 4 miles S,S.E. from the iiland the depth is 22 to 26 fitthoms ; at 1^ miles westward from it 47 fkthoms, and at a mile eastward from it 7^ to 10 fethoms. VSOSAUma is distant 24 miles S.S.E. i £. from Batti Maive^ its east end (aooording to the obserrations of the Ghilaikea) being in Lat 8^ 26' N., Long. 93^ 3' 37*^ £. It is only 1^ miles in extent, and not more than 6 £bet above the surface of the water, excepting at its south-east oomer, where it rises as an immense rook of great height perpendicular to the sea, far above the trees on the island; this rock is said to give the island the appearance of the erown of an old- fashioned hat, with the flaps let down ; the low land then resembling the flaps, and the rock the crown of the hat; hence the Poitngnese gave it the name of Sombreixo {hat). The village is on its north-east side. The produce of the island is chiefly hogs and poultry ; all kinds of tropical fruits may also be obtained. The natives are reported to be friendly to strangers. The north-west, west, and south-west sides of Tschaura are bordered by a reef which extends out from ^ to | of a mile; the edge of this b steep. Anchorage may be obtained all round the island, but the usual place is off the village in 20 to 30 fathoms, sand. Tschaura is seated on a bank of soundings, the extent of whioh is unknown. At 2 miles eastward from the perpendicular rock the depth is 60 fathoms; at a mile north-eastward from the village it is 46 fathoms ; and at the same distance seaward from the south-west point of the island, it is 93 fathoms. According to the Danish chart of 1846, a coral bank of 8 to 17 fathoms lies 2} miles north-westward from the island ; it may possibly be a part of the bank of soundings, as the chart fepre- sents soundings of 16 to 8 fathoms between it and the shore.* is the island next southward of Tschaura ; its west point according to the observations of the Qalathea is in Lat. 8^ 18' 46'' N., Long. 93"^ 6' 29" £. It is about 10 miles long N.W. and S.E., and 2 to 3 miles broad, and when viewed from a considerable distance appears like two islands, the land towards each end, particularly the north part, being much higher than in the middle. Its produotiona are similar to those of Car Nicobar; it is, however, said to be less populous. Shipe generally avoid the island as much as possible during the south-west Monsoon, as it is considered an awkward place to visit at that season. The west, north and south-east sides of Teressa are foul to some distance off, especiaUy at the latter part, where the reef runs out about a nule. The island and Bompoka, eastward of it, are both seated on a bank of soundings, the extant of which has not been ascertained. There is anchorage all round the island, but the depth is considerable, there being 30 to 40 fathoms at a quarter to half a mile from the west shore, and 30 fathoms (coarse sand) almost immediately outside the reef extending from the south-east point ; the usual place of anchorage is off the eastern shore in about 20 fathoms. an ishudd on the south-east side of Teressa, is not more than two • This bsnk on the Anstrlsn chart is Inserted as uncertain, and the loandlngs ar^S, fL jmd^l7> fta, not fatbcms. The authority for ^ts insertion is apparently the Danish chart^^v v5(UL^^iv^ T T 2 644 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. miles long N.N.E. and S.S.W., and one mile broad. It is two milefi from the shore of Tereesa, being separated from it by a channel 30 to 50 fathoms deep. It coDsiats of a monntain, partly covered with wood. Its summit is a sharp ridge, extending north and south about half the length of the island, from which the dedivity on all sides is regular to the water*8 edge. The inhabitants are very few, and the women are considered to be fairer and handsomer than those of the neighbouring islands. At a short distance from the east shore of Bompoka are soundings of 18 to 29 fathoms. The anchorage is on its western side in 16 to 20 fathoms. lOwa is an island 30 miles north-eastward from Bompoka* the anchorage on its west side, at two miles from its north pointy being in Lat. 8^ 32' 29'' K., Long. 93^ 84' 14" E.* It is «bout 8 miles long, and with the islets off its south and north points, occupies an extent of nearly 11 miles. It is very narrow, and oonsisis of a high rugged mountain 460 feet high, which may bo seen from a distance of 12 to 14 miles, and when first seen has the appearance of a cockscomb. The greater part of the island is covered with trees, and it is said to be inhabited only by exiks horn the other islands. The outennost rocky islet off the south end of TiUangachong is named Laouk. The east side of TUhmgschong is steep, and has at a short distance from it a depth of 13 to 34 fathoms.t The west side is perhaps equally steep, there being almost close to it, and to the islets and rocks off the south end of the island, soundings of 30 to 76 fathoms. The extent of the bank of soundings east, west, and north of the island is unknown. OAMORTA is the island most southward of Tillangschong. Between are sound- ings of 17 to 66 and 67 fathoms, the first being off the north end of Camorta, and the last at a short distance southward from Laouk, the rocky islet off the south end of Tillangschong ; in mid-channel the depth is 40 to 66 fathoms. The extent of this bank in an east and west direction is unknown. Camorta, Trinkut and Nangoovri together occupy an extent of 19 miles in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, and of about 7 miles east and west. Camorta, the principal island, is 16 miles long, and its north point is in Lat. 8^ 14' 5* N., Long. 93^ 31' 11" £., according to the Oalathea. The northern and middle pacts of the island are flat, and have only a moderate elevation, but the land in its west part is high, especially near Nangoovri harbour ; it is here that the principal village of the i^nd is aitnated, at the base of a perpendicular ridge. The island has been deacribed as *' irregular broken land, mostly covered with trees and underwood ; the trees are three or four sorts of the poon, very fit for masts and to build houses. There are several plains of pasturage three or four miles round ; the soil is rich, as sugar-canes grow without cultivation, and it produces the finest yams in India — ^there are besides fine flavoured pine*apples, plantains, guavas, &c. Water is obtained horn wella, but — ■'■'' - -r * So determined by the iVbraro, tmt the chart of the Niooban fhnn the obeemftioiu of the fnureylng offlcere of that ehip has it in Long. 9t^ 86' E. The Novara stood in for the north dioie of the island to within 100 feet of the steep octagonal-shaped cliff which forms ita north point, and afterwards sUrted the north-west ooait for aboat 9| miles at the distance of 160 to 900 ftet. ' The highest part of the island did not apparently exceed 800 feet At its south-east side there is a well -sheltered anchorage. t Ha. BrrcRi£ says: "At 10 fathoms* distance eaatward from TUlangaehong there is m groond with a line of ordinary length.** , ^ ^ ^ , ^ Digitized by VjOOQIc NICOBAE ISLANDS: ^^ is not plentiful in tli6 dry season, owing to the small number of wells sank by the natives. There are no tigers nor other dangeroas beasts ; but many snakes, thongh few of them are venomous." The inhabitants are not numerous. Its western side abounds with bays and fine harbours ; there are good places at the north-east and north-west parts for cocoa-nuts ; the village is named Kakana. At about 2^ miles northward from the south-west point of Camorta, on the west coast, is the entrance to a large bay named Ulala, which is three-quarters of a mile wide at the entrance, and probably within is deep enough to receive vessels of con- siderable size. The depths along the west shore of Camorta are 28 to 30 fathoms at about a mile irom the land, and it is not known how far westward the bank of soundings extends* A reef is reported to run out about 3 miles from the north-west point of the island. THiikiit» on the south-west sid^ of Camorta, is 5^ miles long, and very narrow* It IS low and level and covered with betel and cocoa-nut trees. The channel between it and Camorta is about a mile wide in its narrowest part, and excepting at its southern end is shallow, too shallow we believe for vessels of even moderate draught. From its north-east point a reef runs out about i of a mile. The soundings at a short distance from the east shore of Trinkut are 4 to 7 fathoms, which rapidly increase to 17 and 20 fathoms, the latter being at about two miles from the land ; it is not known how far eastward the bank extends. Between the north-east end of the island and Camorta vessels anchor in 8 or 9 fathoms, coral ; and also, at a short distance westward of its south point, in 6 to 8 fathoms, soft ground. WMigoovii is about 5 miles in extent, of triangular shape, havmg its apex to the south, rugged, uneven, and almost covered with wood. It is very thinly inhabited. At If miles eastward from the south point of Nangcovri the depth is about 32 fathoms, and at 3 miles southward from the same point 74 fathoms. It is believed that the last-mentioned sounding is on the southern edge of the bank upon which the three islands, Camorta, Trinkut, and Nangcovri are seated. armavoovrl BarHoiir, the narrow channel separating Nangcovri island from Camorta, is considered the finest harbour in the Nicobars. It is deep enough for the largest vessels, the anchorage is nearly land-locked, and access to it is dther from eastward or westward. A few Moravian missionaries from Tranquebar were stationed some years ago in Cross Harbour (one of the bights) to convert the natives to Christianity: their settlement was called Hermann, and we believe it has been abandoned. Very few refreshments can be obtained here, the land being hilly and not cultivated, although on the north side of the harbpar the soil is good. The western entrance of Nangcovri harbour is about ^ of a mile wide,, and 27 to 33 fathoms deep ; the points of land on each side are high, and from that on the north side (tlie south-west point of Camorta) a bank of 6 to 12 fathoms on irregular rocky bottom runs out a short distance in a south-westerly direction.* The eastern entrance is a little wider than the western, being contracted by rocky banks which line the shore on each side, having 12 and 14 fathoms close to them, and from 18 to 20 fathoms * ** The western entrance to Naogcorri harbour is scaroely 100 fkthoiiu wide by 14 in depth, and is marked by two rookj pinnacles. Directly opposite Jies the island of Katschal, tbioldj wooded to the water's edge, and stretching out long and low, without any marked elevation above the sea leveL-^A^omrtfee of the yovara^$ Vounge. ^.^.^.^^^ ^^ L^OOglC 646 ISLANDS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. in mid-channeL There ii less water outside or eastward of this narrow part of the eastern entrance, but it is nowhere less than 6 to 11 fathoms deep ; generally the soundings close to the rockj banks off the shores are 5 fathoms. The navigaticm of the eastern entrance is considered easier than that of the western entrance on aoooont of its greater width. ' The harbour is divided into two parts bj a point of land jutting out on each aide. The easternmost, named Cross harbour, from its form, is tiie smaller, and oontains sereral shelves of rook in its southern arm, with 6 or 6 fathoms dose to them. The western, or larger part of the harbour, is a great basin of an oblong form, about 2 miles long and 1 broad, with a cove on the west side, and another at the south end. In its north-west part there is a rockj bank of 5 and 6 fiithoms, sand and patches of rock, distant from ^ to f of a mile from the^ shore. The depths througlKrat the harbour are generally 10 or 12 fathoms near the shore, and 18 or 20 IkUunns in the middle, except near the western entrance, where there are 27 to 34 fathoms ; the bottom all over is soft, and good for holding. The tide runs strongly with eddies through the western entrance. The flood runs eastward, and sets out of the eastern entrance with some strength, although in the harbour it is acaxcdj perceptible. When running into Nangcovri harbour by either the eastern or western entnmce it is recommended to keep in mid-channel, and as an extra precaution, to have a man at the fore or fore topsail-yard, to look out for the edges of the rocky banks that has the shores. b.— At about 4 miles westward from Nangcovri island is the island of Katschal, which is 10 miles in extent N.W. and SJ2., and of very irregular farm, its eastern and western sides being each indented by an extensive bay. Its n(»tb and west parts are moderately elevated and level ; the other parts of the island aie much higher, and sufficiently lofty to be visible from a distance of about 25 milei. The island is covered with wood, and ftumishes abundance of cocoa-nuts. Along the north-west, south-west, and east sides of Katschal, there is anchor^; on the south-west side of the island the best position is in about 11 iathoms off the entrance of the bay. The north-east coast is so steep that, at half a mile from it, the depth is taid to be (k) to 100 fathoms. The extent of the bank of aoundingt irettward of the island is unknown. At about a mile from the south coast of Katschal there is a rock 12 feet under water, and at 5 miles southward firom the island there is said to be a coral bank of 9 to 17 fathoms,* having soundings of 70 to 80 fathoms close to it. unfta mcwmiOb— 'This island is about 12 miles long and 8 miles broad; it is moderately elevated, hilly, and like most of the islands of the Nicobars, covered with wood. Its north point is surrounded by a reef. At about 10 miles north* westward fh>m its north point is a small low island^ named Meroe, and midway between are two others, named Treis and Track, of which the former is the larger in • It ii so repKWBted in th« Danish chart of 1816, hut in the Anstriaa chart (the roynge of tht JVbvoro) tht samt soondincs are given tj^ nol ikthonu. In both charU its extstenoe ia sUled to be nnoerteiii. Thia may be the coral bank raported bj Catt. tf ackat of the ^2Ndii» in 1770 ; it was stated to be in Lat 7*" is' N., S mU«i 8. of Katsohalt on it 9 to laflktbons watv wtra found, and no bottom with so ikthoms dose to. i ^ ^ ^ ■ ^ Digitized by VjOOQ IC NICOBAE ISLANDS. * 047 size ; these two ialeti have lanken rocks about them. At nearly midway betweeu Treis and the north point of the island there is a small bank of 6 fathoms, having ckse to it a depth of 25 fathoms. At nearly 3 miles from the east shore of Little Nioobar island there is a small islet named Montschal. In the channel between are sonndmgs of 19^ to 30 fathoms. The anchorage at the Little Nioobar is on its north-west side, under pro- tection of a little islet named Mila. The depth is 9 to 12 and 14 £iithoms, sand and ooral> and the approach is from westward or northward ; in either oaae care is re^ quired to avoid the coral reefii that line the| shore. Mb. Majos says of this anchorage : " It is a beautiful little harbour, only open from N. i W. to N.W. by N. ; the entrance is directly opposite Track island, in the Sombrero channel, and a ship can lie within 100 fathoms of the shore in 9 fathoms water, on the starboard side of the harbour, under the small island of Milu (or Buseh island, as it is called by the Danes). The natives here are very inoffensive, and willing to trade, but they are very poor. This harbour is perfectly safe at all seasons of the year, and poon spars are procurable in abundance in the jungle, for disabled ships, without any expense- only the trouble of cutting them by the ship's crew, and bringing them to the ship, which would not be much labour. Of the islands Treis and Meroe, the former must not be closely approached,— the latter can, and a great nomber of ooooa-nuts can be got there, but it is not safe in the S.W. Monsoon." OMMAT meOBAlfc.— This ishmd is about 30 miles long N.N.E. and SiS.W.j and 14 miles wide in its broadest part, which is in the middle, whence it diminishes to a point at its south end, ceasing in low level land, covered with trees, and fronted by a sandy beach. The highest parts (probably 1900 feet) are in about its centre and towards its north side, where the hills run across the island in an E.N.E. direc- tion. The soil is of great fertility, and in many parts densely covered with timber. The sugar-cane in great abundance is to be met with growing wild ; coffee also, and numerous tropical fruits. The natives of the interior are believed to be of different race to those on the coast, and are supposed to be savages. There is no place for trading for cocoa-nuts. Quantities of tortoise-shell can at times be picked up. According to the observations of the Novara, the little sandy beach at the south end of Condul island, off the north shore of the island in St. George's channel, is in Lat. 7"^ 12' 17'' N., Long. 93'' 39^ 65'' E. ; and the east side of Gblathea bay, at the south end of the island (at the landing-place near the extremity of the point) in Lat 6° 48' 26"iN., Long. 93° 49' 46" E.» Gkdathea bay, at the south end of Great Nioobar island, has an extent of 2 or 3 miles ; it affords excellent anchorage in 5 to 9 fathoms, sand and day, and shelter from the Monsoons. At the head of the bay there is a barred river, a pistol-shot wide, which runs up the centre of the island. A reef jutting out from the west point of the bay (the south point of the island) requires some caution to clear. At about 2 miles from the east shore of Gkeat Nioobar island, and 13 miles from • The CkUathea made the middle of the west aide of Ck>ndii], about a mile N.W. ( l > — r reef; with heavy hreaken, (seen in a light breeze after a heavy gale,) was said^to lie 4 miles northward of cape NaturaUste ; and VMgbt bank, a rocky patch with 5 or 6 fathoms over it, was stated to have been sailed over, when li miles to the northward of the same cape. H.M.S. Beagle passed close to both spots, having reg^ar sounding of 25 to 27 fathoms, and without seeing broken or shoal wator : the appearance of breakers may have been caused by the long swell of the Gbeat Southern Ocean meeting a strong southerly current, sweeping out of Geographe bay. AT. — ^From cape Naturaliste to point Casuarina the distance is 36 miles in an E. by N.*ly direction ; between the two points is Oeographe bay, which is 12 miles deep, with soundings of 18 fathoms in the centre, decreasing to 3 fathoms at 1 mile from the southern shore ; here whalers and vessels engaged in the timber trade find good anchorage during the greater part of the year, but it is exposed to the prevalent N. W. winds of wintei'. The principal anchorage is in 3 to 5 fathoms off the mouth of Vaaee lalet and near the small town of BoMetten ; a tokiie cund, GtigB Boad, and Swan Blver. i r-^ rx rr i /> Digitized by VjOOQLc SWAN RIVER. 667 south side of the island. To the northward of Bottnest island, the soundings are njore regular after passing cape Ylaming. At 5 miles off North point the depth is 22 and 21 fathoms, fine grey sand, shoaling very gradually to the mainland. The bottom is rocky off the west end of Rottnest island ; but consists of rock and coarse white sand on the north-west and south-west sides of the island. Bone-aboe rook, which is covered, lies N.E. i N. 2^ miles from cape Ylaming, and has 9 and 10 fathoms close to it. From Npi'th point the northern coast of Rottnest island trends E. j S. 1^ miles to Bathurst point, and is bordered by rocks and foul ground extending from a quarter to half a mile from the shore, with a rocky 2^ fathoms patch lying N.N.W. ^ W. half a mile from Bathurst point. XKiok rook. — Boo roof. — ^Duck rock, which lies about half a cable's length off Bathurst point, is a small rocky islet, distinguished by a cask beacon on it, from which Roe reef— a rocky patch, with 2i fathoms on it— bears N. by W. i W. three- quarters of u mile. Roe reef may be cleared to the northward by keeping the north extreme of cape Ylaming open to the north-westward of North point until Duck rock bears South. ' TliompooB bajf one of the pilot stations, is an indentation of the north-east side of Rottnest island, about 1 mile wide, N.W. and S.E. between Bathurst and Phillip points ; but it is only fit for boats, it being full of the shoal patches and rocks which form Kingston reefs. Vbillip rookf which lies N.E. 2 cables' lengths from Phillip point, is a small rocky islet distinguished by a cask beacon. XiBffoton roolk, which front Thompson bay, extend East nearly 2 miles from Duck rock, and N.E. by E., 1^ miles from Phillip rock to Kingston spit. There is a depth of 7 fathoms near the north and east edges, increasing to 9 and 10 fathoms at half a mile to the northward of these reefs. To clear Kingston reefs to the north- ward, Bare hill, a peak 140 feet high, near the north coast of Rottnest island, should be kept a little open north of Duck rock. Should this hill not be distinguished. North point must be kept a little to the southward of W. ^ S. To clear Kingston ree& on the south side, keep Parker point, the south extreme of Rottnest island, open south of Bickley point, which lies S.W. by S. half a mile from Phillip point. Wallaoo iolot.--TwlB rooko. — Wallace islet, 1 cable's length off Bickley point, is a rugged grey rock, at a quarter of a mile to the north-eastward of which lie the Twin rocks, which are bold-to, and bound Beagle road to the south-westward. Boagio road, off the east end of Rottnest island, between Phillip and Bickley points, affords good shelter from the usual north-west and south-west winter gales, between the months of March and October. The best berth is in 4 fathoms, sand, nearly South half a mile from Phillip rock, and N.E. a quarter of a mile from Twin rocks, with Parker point a little open to the south-eastward of Bickley point. A vessel remaining here should moor, on account of the limited space. Porpoioo bay, and Blrootloa islot. — Porpoise bay, which extends S.W. by W. i W. li miles from Bickley to Parker point, is full of rocks and shoals, terminating south-eastward at Direction islet, a low rocky mass lying S.W. f S. half a mile from Wallace islet, with deep water at a cable's length from its south-eastern side. i r^r^m^ Digitized by VjOOQ LC 658 AUSTBALIA— W. COAST. A imall, rooky, 2-fftthoin8 paidh, lying nearly half a mile to ihe north-eastward of Direction islet, may be avoided in hauling up for Beagle bay, by keeping Parker point in line with Direction islet, until Phillip rock bears North. barker poiat, S.E. i S. If miles from Botttiest light, being connected with the island by a low narrow neck of land, appears when seen at a distance, as an islet. It is bordered by a rocky reef projecting nearly a cable's length from the point. Salmon bay, and another bight to the westward of it, extending W. \ N. uaarly 4 miles from Parker point to cape Ylaming, are foul and rocky. Bottnest island having a penal establishment for the aborigines of the colony, boats are not allowed to land there without written permission firom the Colonial Secretary. The native prisoners on the island collect salt &om the lagoons on it, cut wood, grow grain, and perform much useful work. lUddla growld is a 3-fathoms patch of sand and weeds, lying nearly midway between Phillip point and Champion rock, with Phillip rock its own breadth open north-eastward of Duck rock, and the north 'extreme of Direction islet in line with Tree hill, which rises half a mile North of Parker point. Middle ground may be avoided by borrowing towards the rocky islets off the east end of Rottnest island, from which no dangers extend beyond a oable'a length. It may be cleared on the north-east side by keeping Phillip rock in line with Duok rook. laakaoti rwOuh a patch with 12 feet water on them, have lately been disoovwed in the southern passage, at about South half a mile from Middle ground, with Phillip point and Duck rock nearly in line, and a little North of a line from oape Ylaming through Parker point. cnuunyion rook lies nearly in line with the west extreme of Phillip rook and Duok rock, distant from the former about three miles. It is nearly 2 cables in extent, with only 9 feet water on its shoalest part; but there are 4 knd 5 fathoms dose roond it. This rock may be cleared to the northward by cape Ylaming bdng shut in by Parker point ; and to the eastward by keeping Duck rock in line with the north-east extreme of Phillip rock. Stragglers reef. — Champion rock is situated at the north-west extreme of Stragglers reef, a collection of covered rooks and foul ground, without any well-known channel between them, extending to the Stragglers rooks, which lie between 2 and 3 miles to the south-eastward of Champion rock. From a patch with 3f fathoms on it, lying S.W. by W. one-third of a mile from Champion rook, the western S-fathoms edge of the Stragglers reef extends nearly S.S.E. 3 miles to Hugel pass. And from a 3-iathoms patch lying S.S. i E. half a mile from Champion rock, the eastern 6-fathoms edge of the foul ground of Stragglers reef trends nearly S.E. 2^ miles to Stragglers channel. The sea breaks upon all the foul ground between these 5-fathoms lines in bad weather. Vho Stragflers form a cluster of small, pointed rocks, the largest and highest of which bears nearly S.E. by £. 7^ miles from Bottnest light. These, together with the sunken rocks about them, are nearly 1 mile in extent. Swan BlTer llgliflioiiee stands on Arthur head, on the south side of the entrance of Swan river, and nearly E. by S. i S. 12 miles from Bottoest light. It is of white stone, surmounted by a lantern, showing infixed white light of inferior magnitude ; but beLog 92 feet above the sea level, it is visible 14 miles. From Rous head, which forms the north side of the entrance of ^wan rira*. and Digitized by VjOOQ Ic SWAN RIVER. 009 lies north one-third of a mile from the Ughthoase, a sandy beach extends northward to a rocky shore near the Winding Sheet, a bare sand patch, N. by E. i £. S^ miles from the entrance of Swan river. A Saad'bankt with 5 ikthoms or less water on it, lies 2 or 3 miles to the north- westward of the Winding Sheet, and should be avoided in bad weather, as its exact position, extent, and least depth of water, have not yet been ascertained. Sail bankf which lies N.W. f N. 2 miles from Swan river lighthouse, and If miles from the beach, is a rocky patch about 1 cable in extent, with 3j^ to 4 fathoms water on it, rising abruptly from a depth of 8 and fathoms. This bank, on which the sea breaks in bad weather, id marked by a painted black and whiU buoy on its western side. For about half way between Hall bank and the shore the soundings are regular in about 8 and fathoms, when they decrease gradually to 3 fathoms within a few yards of the beach. Bleaor rooka form a 12-fe6t patch, not exceeding 120 yards in extent, lying N.W. i N. li miles from the Swan river light, and are marked by a chequered buoy, moored in 6 fathoms, at 60 yards from their western side. A So«kar patoli, with 3i fathoms on it, lies N.W. by W. \ W. half a mile from the light-house, with 5 and 6 ^thorns dose outside, and 4 and 5 fathoms within it ; but the space between this danger and the shore is narrow, and is unmarked. Besvto rooky W. by S. \ S. three-quarters of a mile from Swan river light, has 16 feet water on its shoalest part, and is distinguished by a black buoy. There are rocky patches of 3 fathoms at £. by S. 2 cables' lengths, and at West a quarter of a mile from Beagle rock, with 4^ fathoms between and close around them. MClndOB roof is a small 18-feet patch, marked by a black buoy with a white vane, lying S.W. ^ W. a little more than a mile from Swan river light-house, with 4 fathoms close around it, except on its south-east side, which is separated by only a cable's length, from a projection of the 3 fathoms bank, which here extends a mile from the shore. I SOAD, which has generally been considered unsafe in winter, is the nearest, but most exposed, anchorage to Swan river ; it is open to the northward, but is in some measure protected by Bottnest island and the Stragglers reef from the vast body of water rolling in from the N.W., and is sheltered to the southward by Success bank, which separates Gbge road from Owen anchorage. At about half way over from Bottnest island (in an E.S.E. direotion) to Swan river, the water deepens from 4^, 5, and 6, to 9 and 10 fathoms, gradually increasing to 12 fathoms between 2 and 3 miles from the mainland, where there is the deepest water and best holding ground in Gage road. Mrootloiio.-— In the summer, from October to April, the safest season for vessels to anchor in Gage road, a stranger— afber making the best of the sea and land breezes and occasional strong south-west winds, which prevail as far as 30 miles from the land — should, on making Bottnest island, continue the passsge then decided upon, either north or south of the island, as any change in the route after once oommenoed, would tend to embarrass the pilot, and delay his boarding the vessel -imtil too near the land. NoBTHBBN Fassagb.— A vesssl bound for Gage road by the passage north of Bottnest island, should not approach it nearer than 1 mile, in order to avoid Horseshoe rock and Boe reef. A vessel will be dear to the northward ^^^former, U TJ 2 660 AUSTRALIA— W. COAST. while Duck rock beacon b kept open of North point ; and the latter may be cleared on the north Bide bj keeping the north extreme of cape Ylaming open of Nortb point until Duck rock bears sonth. An E. by S. i S. course may then be shaped for the Winding Sheet, the remark- able white sand-patch, already described, at 3^ miles to the northward of Swan ri^er. When Wallace and Direction islets are in line, and open to the eastward of Phillip rock — at which time Swan river light-house will be easily seen and the veasel will be boarded by a pilot — a S.E. i E. course, for about 7 miles, will conduct the vessel to the outer anchorage in Gage road, when a berth may be taken up as most convenient. The SouTHBBir Passage is 2^ miles wide between the islets off the east end of Rottnest and Champion rock. In proceeding for Gage road from the westward by the southern passage, Rottnest island should not be approached nearer than half a mile, to avoid the reefs and foul ground fronting cape Ylaming and the bays between it and Parker point. Having cleared the reef which projects from Parker point, keep the south extreme of cape Ylaming in view south of Parker point, which will lead about 1^ cables' lengths south of Jackson rocks. When Bathurst point opens east of Phillip point, steer E J^.E through the 6-channels channel north-westward of Champion rock until Duck rook beacon opens east of Phillip beacon, when an E. by S. course may be steered for the outer anchorage in Gage road, as before directed. In wobking through the southern passage against a northerly wind. Champion rock and the dangers of the Stragglers reef may be avoided by keeping the Mew- stone — a lump of rock bearing nearly W. by S. i S. 4^ miles from Swan river light- house — open to the S.W. of the largest and highest of the Stragglers rocks, until th^ south extreme of cape Ylaming is just open south of Parker point ; then steer east- ward for Ckige road as before directed. Should the Mewstone and Stragglers not be satisfactorily distinguished for that purpose, the beacon on Phillip rock should not be brought to bear to the westward ofN.N.W.JW. In beating up towards Rottnest island against a strong northerly or southerly wind, much ground will be gained by working in the stream of the island, in order to avoid the strength of the lee current, which is found on such occasions to run at the rate of 1 and 1^ knots. Anotaorage. — In the summer season, from October till April, safe and convenient anchorage will be found in Gage road, in somewhat more than 6 fathoms, at about W. by S. 1 mile from Swan river light-house, with the south extreme of Rous head in a line with a low sandy point projecting from the south, or Fremantle side of the river; and Anglesea point on the south side of Fremantle^ in line with Scott's jetty, bearing east. Yessels discharg^ing cargo often lie much nearer to the shore, in about 3 fiithoms ; but the ground is not so good, and is also strewed with the Beagle, and other rocky patches, already described. The wrecks which have occurred in this anchorage may be traced to the desire of finding a berth near the shore, when vessels get into rocky ground ; a gale probably comes on in the midst of discharging or receiving cai^o, and in some cases, before a second anchor can be let go, the vessel is driven on shore. « ^-.^xm /> ° Digitized by VjOOQIc SWAN RIVER. G61 Bat the shoak in Gage road being now marked by buoys, and the holding ground better known to the pilots, together with the generally improved condition of vessels* ground tackle, ship-masters have of late felt more confidence in the secnrity of Gage road. And where the anchorage was formerly considered unsafe in winter, it is now resorted to at all seasons, to avoid the delay and inconvenience of discharging cargo in the more secure, but distant, Owen anchort^e or Cockbum sound. Tides. — It is high water in Gage road, full and change, at 8h. 50m. ; and in Thompson bay, Bottnest island, at 7h. 50m. ; rise not exceeding 32 inches ; the tide ebbing 10 hours, and flowing 14 hours. The acewvtoae, one of the conspicuous marks for the passes into the several anchorages, is a rocky lump, close to and around which are several shoal spots. The Seal and Bow-boat rooks are three rocks (above water) on a-ledge 4 cables* lengUis to the eastward of the Mewstone. The low rocky island of Camao, f of a mile in extent, lies 2 miles northward of the north end of Garden island; on the east side of it are two buildings ; near and around it are ledges of rocks, with several rocky islets ; and on its west side at the distance of about 2 cables is UTest rook* which is used as one of the leading marks of the channels. COialleiiffer rook, with 3 or 4 feet water on it, is small, of a bright colour, and easily seen, if the buoy with a vane has been washed away ; hereabout the shoal rocky patches lie in great numbers. The Vive Pattaom bank (its northern part 2^ miles southward of the east extreme of Bottnest island) extends S. by £. \ E. 3^ miles until the Mewstone is in line with Buckland hill bearing N.E. by E. ; its breadth varies from ^ to } of a mile. The south extreme of the northern portion of the Five«fathom bank is known as the Seaward reef i there are many dangers on it, the positions of some of them not being accurately known, but all may be cleared to the southward by keeping the Mewstone its own breadth open to the northward of Buckland hill ; and the whole of the Five-fathom bank may be cleared to the westward by keeping Bottnest light- house to the northward of N. by W. \ W. Casnarliia skoal, on the Five-fathom bank, is a small rocky patch W. f N. 2| miles from the N.W. point of Garden island; the least water on it is about 15 feet; the channel between Seaward reef and Casuarina shoal is nearly 2 miles wide, with 4 to 12 fathoms water in it, the deepest part being towards the reef. The southern- most shoal spot (at present known) is a small rocky patch S. \ E. 8^ miles from Casuarina shoal, and nearly S.W. by W. } W. 3^ miles from cape Peron. On the northern part of the Five-fetthom bank the general depth, except near the shoal patches, is from 6 to 7 fathoms ; but the sea occasionally breaks on all parts of it after heavy gales. Outside the bank the water deepens rapidly to 20 and 25 fathoms ; between it and Garden island there is a clear space of 2^ to 3 miles wide, in 8 to 11 fi&thoms. OWW JUrCBOSAOa is separated from Gkige road by Success bank, and from Cockbum soimd by Fannelia bank ; and being sheltered from seaward by the reefs extending from the Stragglers rocks to Carnac isle, offers a secure retreat from Gage road during the stormy months of winter. The best berth is in Beagle anchorage, at about J of a mile to the southward of Fish rocks. The Sonndliiffe in Owen anchorage vary from 4 to fathoms ; t|ie Ij G62 AUSTRALIA— W. COAST. of water in the fairway being 4 fathoms, between f of a mile and 1 mile to the southward of the Mewstone ; a fonr-fathoms bank extending from the S.W. extreme of Success bank nearly to the west end of Parmelia bank ; and 4 fathoms near the entrance of Beagle anchorage, between the south-east extreme of Suooess bank and Owen patch. Buegel paMt leading from the sea into Owen anchorage or Qage road, althoogh it has from 4 to 6 fathoms water in it, is narrow and little known, and consequently it may be considered unsafe. ftambert past, another narrow channel from the sea into Owen anchorage, with 4 to 6 fathoms water in it, is encumbered with several small sunken rocks, and ought not to be attempted without a pilot. The deepest ^channel through Lambert pass is dose on the north side of >M sa g e rookf which is small and nearly awash, lying about 2 cables' lengths northward of the Koarers reefs, and S.W. ^ W. 1 mile from the Mewstoue. A good leading mark for the mid-channel of Lambert pass is the Mewstone, its own breadth open to the N.W. of Buckland hill, the summit of the coast land N.£. by N. 2i miles from Swan river lighthouse. But as this course would Iwd close upon several patches of 2^ and 3} fathoms within a ^ of a mile of, and in, the channel, a boat should lie at Passage rook before it is approached by a stranger, withm i a mile. Buckland hill open a very little to the northward of a boat so placed, or of any beacon which may hereafter be fixed on Passage rock, would lead clear of all tbe dangers, and close on the north side of Passage rock in 4 to 7 fathoms ; after which an easterly course may be steered for Owen anchorage ; or the Mewstone may be lefl to the eastward by a vessel bound to Gage road through Stra^lers channel. Oamao paaa also leads into Owen anchorage from the sea, passing near the N.W. side of Camac, but although nearly a mile wide, with 4 to 5 fathoms, it is crowded with sunken dangers. nOM OAOa nOJLD to O^wm AirOHOSAOa.— A vessel under 18 feet draught may, in the event of threatening weather from the northward or N. W., ikifl her berth from Gage road to Owen anchorage by crossing Success bank, the deepest water being at B.N.E. ( of a mile from the Mewstone, and in Stragglers channel. In crossing Suooess bank by the former passage, make a W.S.W. course for the Mewstone, passing between Soott^s ledge and the patch of 2} fathoms to the north- westward of it. When the low flat rock off the south point of Camac isle comes on with the east end and highest part of a white sand-patch on the north end of Garden island, bearing nearly S. by W., steer this course, which will lead through the passage, at about 1^ cables' length to the eastward of Seal rock ledge. When the south end of the low cliffs northward of Woodman point bears £. | S., steer directly for it, imtil Fish rocks beacon comes in line with Swan river light- house, then haul up N.E., and pass between the two buoys on the south-east extreme of Success bank and Owen patch, with the two beacons on the sand-hills in line ; and anchor in 9 fathoms in m»agi^ aaolioraffaf with Swan river lighthouse bearing N. by E., and the Mewstone W. by N. \ N. Btravders «liamial. — Vessels of less than 18 feet draught proceeding £ro!n Gage road into Owen anchorage by the Stragglers, or Western channel, should steer west for the highest Straggler rock, and when West rock, off the north-west point SWAN RIVEE. 663 of Carnac isle, is its own breadth open east of the white sand-patch on the north end of Garden island bearing S. i E., keep southward on this line until the highest Straggler is in line with Bottnest lighthouse and the MeWitone bears S.S.E. ; ihen steer for the Mewstone on this bearing, which will lead through the channel between Success bank and the 2^-fathoms shoal to the eastward of it. Pass to the westward of the ledge projecting from the Mewstone, and continue southward until the south extreme of the low white cliffii bears E. | S., and then proceed for Beagle anchorage, as before directed. A vessel drawing more than 18 feet, in shifting her berth from Gkige road to Owen anchorage, should pass out north or south of Bottnest island, and then into Owen anchorage by Lambert pass. Aambeit pass. — In adopting the route by the Southern channel and Lambert pass, steer westward from Gage road, so as to bring the south extreme of cape Ylaming in line with the low neck connecting Parker point with Bottnest island, which will lead through the Pive-fathoms channel, and at a i of a mile north of Champion rock. Whilst Bathurst point is just in view north-eastward of Phillip point, alter course southward, to avoid Jackson rocks, and then steer S.S.E., between the Stragglers reef and the Pive-fathoms bank, until the Mewstone is its own breadth open north of Buckland hill ; and then proceed through Lambert pass, as directed on the pre- ceding page. If preferred, a vessel may reach a perfectly secure anchorage in Cockbum sound, between Garden island and the mainland, by using Challenger pass, between Carnac and Garden islands. But for either passage a pilot may always be obtained by making the usual signal. OOCKamur movm is a spacious harbour, formed between Garden island and the mainland, and separated from Owen anchorage by Parmelia bank. It is 8 miles long North and South, and 5 miles wide, affording secure anchorage nearly through- out, in 6 to 12 fathoms, well protected from all winds, especially on the western side near Garden island. Vessels of any size may be hove down in Port Boyal (or Careening cove) to the southward of Colpoys point. Ctallenger paM» leading into Cockbum tsoond between Camao and Garden islands from seawardi has many channels between the numerous sunken rocks and reefs, but cannot be considered perfectly safe for vessels of great draught, without a pilot. Approaching Cockbum sound by Challenger pass from the westward, the outer dangers to be avoided are Seaward reef and Casuarina shoal. The best passage, at about mid-way between these dangers, being found by keeping Brown hill — on the eastern side of Cockbum sound — open of the north end of Garden island one quartei^ of the space, from thence towards Carnac isle, bearing E. by S. f S., until the buoys on Challenger and the Stags rocks are made out Should these buoys be adrift, and a vessel bound into Cockbum sound be unable to procure a pilot, a boat or cask must be anchored near Challenger rock. Marks for finding this rock are the south point of Camac isle in line with Fremantle gaol-^ which stands about a cable's length to the eastward of Swan river lighthouse — and the Haycock, near the north end of Garden island, appearing a little to the eastward of Signal hill, the summit of Garden island, bearing S. by E. j E. Having made out the chequered vane buoy on Challenger rock, and the white cask eet AUSTRALIA— W. COAST. buoy on the Stags rocks, steer for the former, and bring it in line with the Stags buoy and Brown hill, bearing £.8.E., easterly. Pass 90 to 50 yards northward of both buoys, and North of the intermediate d-fathoms patch ; at the same time keep* ing South of the black ca^k buoy on Flat ledge, and the chequered cask buoy on the Three-fathoms bank. After passing the Stags buoy, keep it in line with the Challenger bnoy afiteni, until the Mewstone is seen round the east side of Camac isle, when the vessel will be clear of Challenger pass, and after passing North of the North-east spit whiie buoy, may ^teer south-eastward into Cockbum sound. Or if bound into Owen anchorage or Gage road, haul up on the west side of the black cask buoy on Inside reef, and cross the deepest part of Parmelia bank, at about half a mile to the eastward of Camac isle. In approaching Challenger pass from the soutkioard, it is advisable to bring the Haycock to bear N.E. J N.' until within IJ miles of the island, when the Five- fathoms bank will have been passed over, and the depth will be 9 to 11 fathoms. Steer North for 3 miles, and Challenger rock will then be half a mile to the east- ward. As this is the westernmost danger of Challenger pass, its position shoald be correctly ascertained before entering the channel. The summit of cape Peron, to the southward, must therefore be kept open to the westward of Garden island until Challenger pass is satisfactorily made out, or until the vessel is boarded by a pilot For Owen Andioniffe aeroaa Farmelia bank. — To cross Parmelia bank over its narrowest and deepest part, keep the Haycock over the stern, bearing S. by W. i W. ; this will lead across the bank at half a mile eastward of Camac isle, in 14 feet water ; and when it deepens to 3^ or 4 fathoms, steer eastward for Beagle anchorage, as directed at page 662 ; or if bound for Gage road, steer north- ward, and follow inversely the directions given at page 662 for crossing Sua;ess bank. Zn roinr out by ObaUenrer pass, the foregoing directions must be reversed, and a W. by N. course be made good for 3 miles beyond Challenger rock, when the soundings will quickly increase irom 5 to 10 and 15 fathoms, and the vessel will be seaward of all dangers. CoMt.— From Bottnest island to Shark bay (Xok'a islet), in Lat 24°43'S., Long. 113^ 9' E., the distance is 455 miles ; the coast is fronted more or less by islets, and by rocks and reefs above and under water, extending seaward in places, but especially towards the southern part, to the distance of 2 or 3 miles. The Beagle islets, just south of the parallel of 29^ 46' S., are about 9 or 10 miles from the beach. The Houtman rocks also extend (North and South) a considerable distance from the coast between the parallels of 28° 10" and 29° S. \ consist of three groups of small coral islets, reefs, and rocks extending N.N.W., and S.S.E. a distance of 49 miles, and 10 to 13 miles across. The northernmost group, called Wallabi, is separated from the middle, or Easter {;roup, by Middle channel, from 6 to 9 miles wide, with regular soundings varying from 20 to 28 fathoms, sand. Easter group is separated from the southernmost, or Pelsart group, by Zeewyk channel, 4 miles wide in its naiTowest (western) part, where the deepest soundings are 37 fathoms, decreasing eastward to 20 fathoms, sand and coral. Digitized by LjOOQIC HOUTMAN EOCKS— SHARK BAY. 665 North islefc (Wallabi group) is in Lat. 28° 18' 5" S., Long. 113° 36' 33" E. The north extreme of Bat island (Easter group), in Lat. 28° 42' 49" S., Long. 113° 47' 41" E. And the S.B. extreme of Pelsart isle in Lat. 28*» 69' 14" S., Long. 113° 58' 10" E. Snapper bank, the most distant detached shoal from the Houtman rocks, lies S.E. by E. 7^ miles from the dead coral islet N.E. of Easter group, and N. by W. 6| miles from the north-easternmost of the Pelsart group ; this is a 6-fathom coral bank, 1| miles long north and south, by | of a mile wide. Sonndlnffs. — The vicinity of Houtman rocks has not been'carefally sounded, but from the heavy breakers on the reefs, and the long ocean swell rolling into the channels, it is presumed there are no outlying dangers. At nearly 6 miles outside North islet reef the soundings are 42 fathoms, coral ; whilst no bottom was reached with 166 fathoms at 4 miles off the N. W. extreme of Pelsart group. Snapper and rock-fish maybe caught in abundance near these islets; but it is doubtful whether water could be procured, except during the rainy season. Turtle Bore sboal, mai'ked on old charts at about 13 miles S.S.E.-ward of the south end of Pelsart island, has recently been reported by several whalers and coasters, who agree in placing it S. by E. | E., 26 miles from that island. The sea does not always break on it, and there are 30 to 40 fathoms close to it. Another reported alioal, 8 miles S.E.-ward of the last assigned position of the Turtle Dove, may possibly be the same danger, but until the vicinity has been examined great caution is requisite in navigating this part of the coast. ; CRAmrsXi separates Houtman rocks from the mainland ; it is from 24 to 30 miles wide, with 25 to 30 fathoms water in it over an uneven sandy bottom, deepening gradually to the southward. The only known danger in the channel is Mid-reef, in a direct line between Moore point* and the south extreme of the Houtman rocks, or nearly W, by S. ^ S, 18 miles from Moore point ; it is covered, and does not always break : the depths around it are from 29 to 32 fathoms. ■BARX BAT extends south 144 miles, and is from 30 to 50 miles wide. It is formed between Bernier, Dorre, and Dirk Hartog islandsi to the west, and the low mainland coast to the east, south, and south-west. iratarallate eliannel* the southern entrance into Shark bay, between Dorre and Dirk Hartog islands, extends S.W. by S. 12 miles from the reef which projects from the south extreme of the former, to cape Inscription, the north point of the latter island. The soundings in the channel vary from 9 to 35 fathoms, with no other known dangers in it than Dampier reef, on which the sea always breaks. This reef, 2 miles long east and west, and 1 mile broad, with 2^ fathoms on it, lies N.E.-ward 7 or 8 miles from cape Inscription, and in the fairway of the channel. Oeorrapbe obannel, the northern passage into Shark bay, is 30 miles wide between cape Cuvier (of the French) and Kok's islet, and has generally regular soundings in 20 to 30 fathoms, except at about 5 miles to the north-eastward of Kok*s islet, where there appears to be a 6-fathom shoal. Coaet.— Prom cape Cuvier (Lat. 24° S., Long. 113° 22' E.), which is high and rocky, a low sandy coast trends to cape Farquhar, N.N.E. | E. 28 miles ; thence to point Cloates the distance is 62 miles, nearly north, the coast between forming in two • Moore point (Champion bay) is in Lat. 7S^ AV 8" a, Long. 114*' OG' 2 'igitized by ODOgie 666 AUSTRALIA— N.W. COAST. open bays. From point Cloates to the North-West cape of Australia the dictanoe is 62 miles N;N.E. i E. The irortli^wMt oape is a low sandy point in Lai 21'' 47' 40\S., Long. 114^ 2' l&" E.y projecting E.N.E. 2 miles from Ylaming head, the northern fall of the ridge extending along the west side of Ezmonth gulf: this gnlf is 34 miles wide at its entrance, from cape Locker to North-West cape, and was traced nearly 50 miles in a S.S.W. direction. Several small islands, rocks, and sunken reefd lie scattered aboat the entrance. &owl«3r aboala consist of extensive coral reefs lying between the parallels of 17^ and l?'' 40" S., and the meridians of 118° 50" and 119° 4(y E. As the sea breaks heavily on them, they may be easily seen in the day-time, and the noise of the breakers may be heard at some distance from them at night. ■onndlnffs on thm V.^7. Ooaat of Avstralttt. — ^The <;niter edge of the 100- &thoms bank of soundings off the western part of the North-west coast extends from about 45 miles eastward of the Rowley shoals in a W.S. W. dhrection to about 30 miles north of the Monte Bello isles, and from thence closes towards North- West oape. From the outer edge to the land, the depth of water decreases with some regularity. ■quaw roekf a dangerous 10-foot patch, discovered in 1860, lies nearly N. by E. 70 miles from North-west cape, or in Lat 20P 41' 8., Long. 114"^ 17' £. A eona reef* on which the ship Lively was lost, is said to lie in Lat. 16° 30^ S., Long. 119° 86' E. The following remarks on the N.W. coast of Australia and Dampier Archipelago, with directions for the new port of Tlen-Talnp are by CiPTAlsr J. T. Jazuxs :-^ " From April to November inclusive, during which 1 passed alternately north- ward and southward of the N.W. cape, 1 invariably found, at a moderate distance from the land, fresh steady breezes from S.S.E. : at about 35 miles N.E.-ward of the cape the wind was more easterly, — sometimes E.N.E. I never found the vessd within the influence of regular tides until eastward of Monte Bello isles ; these I rounded very close in five out of seven passages, and from the N.W. cape to Ritchie reef the current invariably set with the prevailing wind at about f of a mile per hour. " If bound to the eastward during the period mentioned above, a berth of 7 or 8 miles will be sufficient to give the N.W. cape ; from thence, if the wind admits steer direct for Ritchie reef, which is very accurately laid down on the * Admiralty chart, —Sheet, No, Tii. N.W. coast of Australia, additions by Oaptjiik SxcKsa, R.N.' " No vessel should at present attempt to pass to the S.E.-ward of the Monte BeUo group, as there are many scattered reefs extending in that direction j and when working in their vicinity with a contrary wind, a good look-out must be kept I passed over several discoloured patches and saw many others in the day-time ; at night, it would be very imprudent to stand nearer than 10 miles toward the islands. " Ritchie reef should be rounded on its west side (especially in light winds), on account of the prevailing westerly set which sweeps strongly round the north end of Monte Bello. I twice passed along this reef at the distance of about i a mile, and finom aloft saw no appearance of any other danger in its vicinity ; in a moderate breese t^e sea breaks hea^y on the reef, and in a calm may be heard several mDes off; the reef is 2 miles N.E. and S.W., and divided into nearly two equal parts by an apparently deep water passage of about ^ of a mile in, trending S.E. and N.W. ; the southern portion is a saud bank above high water mark : the centre lies in Lat..20° 16' 30* S., Long. 115° 8' 30" E. Digitized by VjOOQIc TIEN-TSIN HARBOUR. 667 " Working to the eastward from the reef, I never Btood to the northward of 20° S., and when far enough to the eastward to weather Monte Bello, by keeping well to the southward I obtained the advantage of regular tides. I was once becalmed when Rosemary isle bore due south, distance 6 miles, and observed the tide commence running E.N.E. at 5h. F.si. at the rate of 2 miles per hour, it continued in the same direction until lOh. p.u. : there was no slack water, but it suddenly changed to S.S.W. at the same rate ; this was on the day of full moon. " It appears to be safe to work along the northern side of the Dampier Archipe- lago, but I always kept the lead going and found a regular decrease of water towards them. Enderby island is the highest of the group in this locality, and wherever the soundings are marked on the Admiralty chart they are very accurate. " Rosemary isle may be easily known by its st^eep and rounded appearance, and is safe to approach ; but be carefiil to give Legendre isle a good berth, for a tide race sweeps round its north end— off which I found overfalls of 35 fathoms, with the north end of Legendre bearing S.W. distant 4 miles. " Delambre isle is of moderate height and visible 10 miles from the deck ; it is only safe to approach on its north side, which is steep to ; on the #est side it dries out for about 1} miles ; and has on its east side at about ^ a mile from the north extremity, a reef of rooks projecting from the shore fully 2^ miles (covering about 10 feet at high water springs), and leading to seaward in an E.S.E. direction ; the great ris& of twenty feet hereabout, makes this reef very dangerous at high water. The first voyage, I anchored in the night in 10 fathoms sandy bottom, Delambre island bearing S. by W. distant 6 miles : the vessel remained at anchor for twenty- eight hours during my absence at Niool bay, and in the interval the tides were care- fully observed and noted as follows, viz. : — the first of the set out/rom Nicol bay N.E. by N. gradually backing round by the north and ended with a N.W. set : the first of the flood set dawn to S.E. backing round by the south and ended with a W.S.W. set: no slack water, and the ebb immediately followed at the rate of 2i miles per hour. High water at F. and C. at Delambre, lOh. 45m. On nearing the mainland in this season regular land and sea breezes prevail. I should not recommend any vessel to stand to the westward between Delambre and Bezout islands. " If bound to Tien-Tsin harbour, ailer rounding Ritchie reef, should the wind hang far easterly, do not go to the northward of 19° 60" S. ; when to the eastward of Monte Bello islands, work along well down to southward and you will have smooth water,— with the assistance of regular tides, which are lost when far in the offing. I believe the space between Monte Bello and Rosemary isles to be free from danger : in three passages, in beating over the whole of this space, and down in the bight near cape Preston, I saw no indication of any hidden danger. Standing to the southward you will gradually decrease your water to 14 and 12 fathoms, sand and mud; should it fall calm, you may anchor (with a stream) for the tide. In this season — April to October — ^the wind usually draws off the coast at night, but does not extend far to seaward. " Be careful to give the north end of Legendre island a good berth, for the flood tide sweeps right into Mermaid strait : if ebb tide, after rounding Legendre, and with a land wind, steer direct for Dekmbre isle, the north face of which is about 50 feet in height and nearly perpendicular — with a slight rise towards the centre of the island. Tou will have 7 ftithoms within ^ a mile of the north end Digitized by 668 AUSTRALIA— N.W. COAST. but do not approach the east side nearer than 3 or 4 miles-^especially in the night, with a flood tide ; nor bring the N.E. end to northward of N.W. i N. until Bezoat inland ia plainly visible, for between Delambre and Bezont the flood sets strongly to the W.S.W., and there are reefs and rocky patches in the vicinity of the latter island on all but its north side. " In coming from the northward give Bezont isle a berth of 2 miles on account of a rock about a mile to the S.E. of the isle, which covers at half tide. From Bezont steer S.S.E. until cape Lambert bears northward of west ; the cape is low land, and will not be perceived until Bezout bears W.S.W. * Between the island and the cape there is a passage of 2 miles in breadth, but twice in passing through in my boat at low water I saw several scattered rocks. If required, shelter may be found under Bezout isle, but it would not be prudent to seek it during a dark night, bearing in mind the great rise of tide whereby many of the dangers are hidden at high water. Bezout isle, i of a mile in extent, is flat-topped, of moderate height, with a sort of natural terrace on its south side; in working down to southward from it you may stretch boldly to the S.E. until near the Hat rocks, which are above water; the lead will give y0u timely warning when to tack, according to the state of the tide. At about ) of a mile to the southward of cape Lambert, stretching out finom tiie main in an E. by N. direction, is a very extensive reef of coral, drying about 8 feet at low water, and its outer extremity is about 2^ miles from the shore, with no passage between it and the mainland. " Running down to the southward, do not bring the east end of Bezout isle to the northward of N.W. until well southward of cape Lambert, when you may edge in shore towards Samson point — the N.E. point of Tien-Tsin harbour; this is requisite, or in the night a stranger might mistake Picard isle for Jarman isle, which latter forms the southern point of the harbour, and has a small rocky islet lying about 1^ miles from it in a N.E. direction. Do not come within a mile of Samson's point until it bears northward of west ; projecting from it is a similar (but smaller) reef to the one off cape Lambert; it also covers at half tide and extends one mile seaward ; in working down, I found no other danger. You can stand in shore, by the lead, close to the pitch of the reef off Samson point, when the deep bight, or harbour, will be plainly visible, and Jarman isle will bear about south. Jarman island is an abrupt precipitous mass, safe .to approach on its north side : on its west side it shelves down to a flat sandy beach, with a few scattered rocks along shore ; landing here is easy, and safe at all times of tide and in any weather; as seen from the northward it is similar in appearance to Picard isle, which lies about 3 miles to the S.E. of it ; but in the vicinity of Picard isle the water is very shallow. *' When abreast of the reef off Samson point, you may steer boldly into the bay and anchor in any convenient depth ; you will have 17 feet at low water with Samson*^ point bearing north, and Jarman isle on any point between E.S.E. and S.S.E. ; the bay is only open between E. by S. and N.N.E. — fine weather points ; the holding ground is a sort of stiff sand ; I rode out a strong breeze from E. by N., in July, with 35 fathoms of chain : until you have seen the beach at low water mark, with a large vessel, you had better not approach within the above-mentioned bearings, although you will have the same water i of a mile nearer in. With the sea breeze in the Easterly Monsoon you can easily shift your position as convenient : in the West Monsoon you are perfectly sheltered and can chose your berth anywhere. At Digitized by L^OOQlC AUSTEALIA— S. COAST. 669 the head of the harbour the flat ezteuds out about i of a mile, dry from high water mark. " At low water spring tides, Jarman isle is nearly connected with the southern shore of the inner harbour— or Batcher inlet— the channel into which has about 6 feet at low water, and 25 feet at high water, but is very narrow at the entrance ; once inside it is much broader, and is a perfectly land-locked lagoon, with an average depth of 23 feet at high water, neap tides, and a soft muddy bottom : owing to the rather contracted entrance a stranger should not attempt it without having previously ascertained the dangers — which are all visible at low water ; you must have a fair wind to enter, for with a long vessel there is barely room to lay athwart; going in, with a flood tide, be careful not to have too much canvas on your vessel, and be certain also of the exact spot (by previous marks) where you intend to anchor, for if not in fair mid-channel, and the vessel runs away with a lot of chain, you will be certain, in swinging, to tail on the shore. I moored my vessel head and stem, and when leaving, slipped my stem moorings — running out with the land wind at mid- night; she was 140 feet in length, and at low water spring tides had always 6 or 7 feet alongside, and nearly the same depth of mud. I lay about 60 yards from the beach, which at high water forms almost a natural wharf; at low water I buoyed the channel in — ^from Jarman isle to my anchorage ; a small vessel may pass close to the island : bring the north side to bear about N.N.E., and by keeping this bearing you will carry the best water — ^taking care to avoid the rocks that line both sides of the narrow entrance; they generally cover about three-quarters flood. High water, F. and C. at lOh.' 30m. ; mean rise and fall from spring to neap, 16} feet ; two tides in twenty-four hours. Flood tide sets £sur into the iidet. Mean height of the barometer from April to August, 30*02 inches. Thermometer, night 79°; day 83°. '' I made Samson point by many observations to be in Lat. 20° 37' 15^ S., and Long. 117° 9^ 45" E.— assuming Arthur head, West Australia, to be 116° 46}' E. Variation 1° 30' W. The outer harbour can conveniently shelter fifty vessels ; in light winds and calms there is anchorage in moderate depths anywhere after passing Legendre island, but doubtless there are many undiscovered dangers in the whole neighbourhood — ^great care and vigilant look out are therefore indispensable. 1 made six passages between Swan river and Tien-Tsin harbour (both ways) between the end of April and the end of August, 1863 ;— average from Swan river 9 days, return 11 days." AUSTRALIA— SOUTH COAST. CoMt.— From oape Xieeawin (described p. 652), inLat. 34° 21' S., Long. 115° 6'£., to point B'BntreeasteaiuE, in Lat. 34° 52' S., Long. 116° T S., the distance is 60 miles. The steep, rocky cape of D'Entrecasteauz is one of the most remarkable pro- jections on this coast, and is visible from 28 to 30 miles ; there is a low islet 2 or 3 miles south of the point, and breakers extend nearly the same distance still further, having 30 fathoms water 2 miles to the westward of them. oape Cbattaam, with an island off it in Lat. 35° 2^ S., Long. 116° 29' E., is the next headland ; here there are soundings of 60 to 65 fathoms, at the distance of 18 to 20 miles from the cape, and 40 fathoq^s at 8 to 10 miles, within which distance they are irregular. The IVHite^opped rooks which, when made out, show a ship's position, are two Digitized by VjOOQIC 670 AUSTBALIA— S. COAST. smalli bat rather high rockti lying 10 milM ifom the nearett land; W. ) N. 18 miles from Chatham island, and S.E. i S., 15 miles from point D*£ntrecasteaiiz. The soundings at 18 to SO miles southward of these rooks are 66 fathoms, white sand* irnyto point, a oliffy headland projeotbg 3 miles beyond the line of ooaat, lies E. by S. 7 miles from Chatham island. Thenoe to the sharp, eli^ cape, IV^iast 0»pe Bowe, in Lat. dS"" 8V S., Long. 117^ 40^ £., the coast trends irr^ralarly to the eastward. The next prominent point is 9— Ml h— d< 4 miles E.N.E. i S. of which is Bald beftd (in Lat. SS"" ^' S., Long. 118° 0}' E.) the eastern extremity of a peninsnla 10 miles in length, forming King Gleorge sound. Bald head is viaible 36 miles; it is high, rounded, and of a sterile aspect, and near its extremity (on the south side) is a rock awash, but it is otherwise safe to approach, having 10 to li &thoms dose to the shore. ▼naeonTar reel; of small extent, and with a rock awash in its centre, lies nearly 3 miles 8.W. i S. from Bald head, and S.E. by E. ^ S. 2^ miles from Ftaak head ; it is steep on every side, and the soundings give no warning. MEMide reef (} of a mile in diameter) is outside of Vancouver reef, and nearly in a line with it and Bald head, at the distance of 6^ miles from the latter ; it is also 4 miles 8. i E. from Peak headi soundings do not indicate its vicinity, since there are 46 to 47 fathoms at 2 to 3 miles S. and S.E. of it, bottom of coarse sand, coral, and stones. Bellpee lalMide are a rooky duster 4 miles S.W.*ward from Peak head $ the largest island is about 1^ miles long, E.N.E. and W.S.W., by ^ a mile wide, rising in several green hummocks, and visible 20 to 26 miles ; it bears from the extremity of Bald head S. W. by W. 8i miles, and from West Cape Howe E.S.S. i £. The rest of the group are three small, barren, rocky islets off the S.W. end of the largest island, and which are surrounded by breakers. This is the southernmost land on the coast. To the N.W.-ward of Eclipse island, at the distance of | of a mile, there is a patch of sunken rocks and breakers. ' There is a good dear channel inMe of all ike danger$ just described by borrowing towards Peak head; also, passing outside the Eclipse islands, both Maude and Van- couver reefs may be avoided by keeping the southernmost island to the northward of west, until the west end of Breaksea island (in King Qeorge Sound) opens of Bald head N. by E. | E. Working to the westward, these idands should be avoided, as the current runs strong to the eastward during the prevalence of westerly winds. It is believed there is no bottom with 30 fathoms at about a mile from the islands. ro oaOBOB BOUBB, between Bald head and cape Vancouver, is a convenient and safe anchorage for refittmg, wooding, and watering; its entrance is protected from easterly winds by Breaksea and Michaelmas islands ; within the sound is 8ed island and severd smdl rocks ; all the known dangers are marked on the charts.* There are dso two land-locked harbours— 4he Princess Royd on the west, and Oyster harbour on the N.W. Ugbt. — ^Breaksea island, an elevated mass 1^ miles east and west, with a small high islet close to its east end, is 3 miles N.E. by N. from Bdd head. On the island, 1200 yards within its east extremity, a fixed white light is exhibited at an elevation t . « See Admlrsltsr Charts, Nos. 3619 and 1059. Digitized by VjOOQ IC KING GEOBGB SOUND. 671 of 384 feet above the tea, visible 24 miles seaward^ between Bald head and oape Yan- oonver, the foot of Monnt Qardner, or between the bearings of' E. by N. and S.W.iW. The light-tower is of iron, rising from the centre of the keeper's dwelling, and the whole 43 feet high ; it stands on the summit of the island in Lat. 36° 4' 18" S., Long. 118° 3' 20" E. Caution.— -When approaching King George sound from the westward, the mariner is cautioned that although this light may be occasionally seen, it does not become fairly open until bearing N.E. iN. ; and it should not be steered for until bearing N.N.E. | E., when the vessel will be to the eastward of the Maude and Van- couver reefs ; the light will also be hidden to a vessel passing north of Michaelmas island. The channel between Bald head and Breaksea island is good and deep, but a sunken rock, said to be in it, must be guarded against. A channel, i a mile wide, separates Breaksea and Michaelmas islands $ there is also a channel between Michaelmas island and the mainland to the north, but i a mile to the north of the west end of this island there is a shoal patch, with deep water dose to it There is MMlionive between Seal island and the first sandy beabh westward of Bald head, with a low rooky islet bearing W.S.W. ^ W., in 6 to 7 fathoms, sand and weed ; also, west of Seal island, in 5i fkthoros, i a mile from the shore. VrlBoeM BojsU luwlMiir is an excellent place for a krge ship, but the entrance is narrow (only ^ of a mile wide) ; the shoals in it are buoyed, but nevertheless should not be attempted by a stranger without a chart or a pilot. AJLced white UfHt, 37 feet above high water, and visible (through the approaches to the harbour) from a distance* of 10 miles, is exhibited from point King, the northern hhiff of the narrow entrance to Princess Boyal harbour. The lighthouse is a small wooden square tower, 17 feet high, with the keeper's dwelling attached, and presents the appearance of a cottage. It stands on the edge of the point, W. by N. I N. 7i miles from Breaksea island lighthouse, and its position is Lat. 36° 2f 36" 8., Long. 117° 56' 12* E. Oyster luurboor is barred, and only fit for vessels drawing less than 11 feet water. The town of Albany is well situated on the N. W. side of Princess Boyal harbour, and supplies of all kinds may be procured there. An outlying (reported) danger, called Sealer'a ledye, position doubtful, is marked on the charts ; it is 24 miles to the eastward of Bald head, and 12 miles southward of Bald island, the southern extremity of which is in Lat. 34° 56' S. Ooaat. — ^From cape Vancouver, the irregular outlined coast trends first N.E.-waTd to Long. 120° £., and then eastward as far as capes Arid and Pasley ; a large part of this coast, from Long. 121° 35' E. to Long. 124° 4' E., is fronted by a dangerous labyrinth of islands and reefk, called the Setilierolie ArObipelaco. TOTmlaatlM lalsuid, in Lai 34° 30' S., Long. 121° 68' E., is the southernmost of the Recherche archipelago ; it is a smooth rock rising to a peaked summit, visible 28 to SO miles ; off its north end is a rook with breakers ; on its S.W. side, at the distance of 6 to 7 miles, there are soundings in 62 fathoms, white sand, but further south they are quickly lost. Fouoek reef.— Oape Pasley is in Lat. 33° 55' S., Long. 123° 28' E. ; ^j^^ U J /-^ff// <.XV [1 ta.^-^35^5S 49'S. WAIMl®® leuM;ueu reeis among the lonr northern islets oou0tituting> the group; I be avoided daring the night. Capt. J. L. Stokes plaoes the southem- -n Lat. 36° 22' 16" S., Long. 136° 7' 45" B. Digitized by LjOOQ IC WALLAROO AND TIPARA BAYS. 673 The channel of Thornr pa«Mtflre» formed betnreen the N.W. part of Thistle island and the land of cape Catastrophe, is from 4 to 6 miles wide ; in it are several small islands and islets, which so much contract the southern entrance, that 1^ miles of its breadth (between Smith islet and the mainland) is alone safe for ships ; there the depth is 20 to 22 fathoms. The Altlioipe isles, with several rocks and a reef, lie 5 miles to the southward of cape Spencer; the largest, about a mile in extent, has 35 to 45 fathoms at 8 or miles to the westward and southward of it, and 22 fathoms at 6 miles to the eastward. Oambler IslaadSv four in number, lie near the middle of the entrance to Spencer gulf. Wedge island, the largest and southernmost of the group, in Lat. 35° 11' S., Long. 136° 29' E., is 3 miles long, and has two peaked rocks near its south side ; there are 20 to 30 fathoms in mid-channel between it and cape Spencer. The westernmost island is 6 miles W. by N. from Wedge island, and about the same distance E.S.E. from the S.E. end of Thistle island. From the north side of tlie northernmost isUnd of the group a reef, ou which the sea breaks, extends 4 miles in a northerly direction. Bit Josepb Banks IslaadSa 13 in number, are a short distance up the gulf, on the western side ; they are low, rocky, and sandy islets with several rocks (some above and others under water) near them. The eastern part of the entrance of the gulf* being nearly 18 miles wide between Gambler islands and cape Spencer, with depths of 20 to 30 fathoms nearly the whole 'distance across, and 16 to 25 fathoms at 3 miles to the eastward of the cape,— - hence, with a leading wind, this side is to be preferred by a ship sailing into the gulf. Beyond Corny point, in Lat. 34° 52' S., Long. 137° 3' E., 9 miles within the entrance on the eastern side, the gulf widens to upwards of 60 miles, and there is good anchorage either in port Zdncoln on the west side, or in Hardwioke bay on the east side of the g^lf. Fearee point, in Lat. 34° 28 V S., Long. 137° 21' E., a long narrow strip of land projecting 7 or 8 miles from the line of coast, forms the uorthern boundary of Hardwicke bay. -Beyond Pearoe point is Elizabeth point, a projection of white sandy cliffs, in Lat. 34° 10' S., Long. 137° 27' E. North- ward of Elizabeth point are Tipara and Wallaroo bays. Klglit. — In April, 1865, a temporary light-vessel was moored close under the rocky patch near the southern extremity of the Tipara reef, with the following bearings :— Elizabeth point, S.E. | S. ; Long point, N.E. by E. It exhibits a white light from the mainmast 24 feet above the sea-level, visible from all points of the compass at a distance of 7 miles in clear weather ; a red light from the foremast 12 feet above the sea-level, visible from N. to S. round by W., at a distance of 3 miles in clear weather. The light-ship has two masts, is painted red, and exhibits during the day a red ball at the mainmast head. Vessels making the light from the N.N.W. should not stand towards the northern extremity of the reef, whilst the red light is visible ; by observing this direction a ship will be well clear of the reef. * For the naTlgation of Spencer Gulf it is indispensable to have Admiralty Charts No. 2389 and 1001. Digitized by LjOOQIC 674 AUSTRALIA-S. COAST. Should the weather be hazy, and the red or leas intense light be obscured, no vessel should approach the reef with the white light bearing S.S.E., under 7 fathoms. The following description of the Tipara reef, and mOUbv dlrecttoas for Wallaroo or Tipara bays, were issued in 1865 by Captain B. Douolab, port« officer of Adelaide :— - "The Tipara reef is an extensive shoal, the southern extremity being 4^ miles N.W. from Elizabeth point. It consists principally of sand, but there is a rocky patch of small extent near the southern extremity, which dries at low water ; it is under the shelter of this patch where the light-ship is moored. From the rocky patch the reef extends in a northerly direction, about 2 miles, the outer edge trending to the N.N.W.; whiUt the S.E. part takes a N.E. \ E. direction; the extreme breadth from east to west nearly 2 miles. " The soundings on the reef vary : — ^in some places there being 1^ fathoms ; whilst in others — ^particularly to the N.N.E. part of the shoal — there are only 2 or 3 feet. From the northern extremity of the reef, the buoy off Long point bears N.E. by E. f E. " A red nun buoy has been placed off Long point in 3 fathoms, with tlie following bearings : — ^Elizabeth point, S. ^ E. ; Long point, E. by N. \ N. " Vessels rounding the south part of the reef should not bring Elizabeth point to bear to the southward of S.E. by E. ^ E. ; whilst those intending to pass to the northward of the danger, into or out of Tipara bay, should not bring the buoy off Long point to bear to the eastward of E. by N. \ N. " To pass outside or to the westward of the Tipara reef, do not approach the light- ship from the westward under 6 fathoms, or come within a mile of the same; from this position, when to the westward of the reef, steer a N.N.W. course, in which the same soundings will be maintained. ** When the buoy of Long point bears East, a course of N.E. may be shaped, taking care as the Long point buoy is brought to bear S.E. not to come under 4} fathoms. '' When Long point bears South, a course of E. by N. may be shaped, when the Pilot and Harbour-master will come off, and conduct the vessel to the anchorage or jetty. " At night no vessel in the vicinity of Tipara reef should come under 7 fathoms, or attempt to enter the bay until the lights from the Smelting Works are clearly defined bearing E. by N., when that course may be shaped for the anchorage ; taking care not to come under 6 fathoms, unless the commander is sufficiently well ac- quainted with the bay to take the ship in, or the pilot has taken charge. " The tides in the vicinity of the reef, and Long and Elizabeth points, are irregu- lar and rapid; care must therefore be exercised to guard against the influence of the tides when in the stream of the reef, or near the points referred to. " It is high water at port Wallaroo at 6h. 45m. F. and C. ; rise and fall 4 feet 8 inches at ordinary springs. " To pass inside Tipara reef give Elizabeth point a berth of 1^ miles, to avoid the shoal rocky patch which extends nearly 1 mile from the point in a north-westerly direction. With the point bearing S.E., distant 1^ miles, steer due N., which course will lead through the inner passage in not less than 4 fathoms. " In beating through, keep the lead going, and do not, in a vessel drawinff more Digitized by LjOOQIC PORT AUGUSTA. 675 than 17 feet, when standing in shore, bring Long point buoy to bear to the west- ward of W.N. W. '* In standing off, when to the southward of the north end of the reef, do not bring the Long point buoy to bear to the eastward of N.N.E., by which the eastern part of the reef will be avoided. '* Small vessels may pass inside the Long point buoy, taking oare not to bring Elizabeth point to bear to the westward of S. by W., so as to avoid the Walrus rock. With the above bearing a vessel will be in 2 fathoms at low water, spring tides, with the Walrus rock distant about i a mile. '* The Walrus rock lies nearly a mile off Long point, when bearing S.E. by S., and is nearly dry at low water. — N.B. 1 J miles from the Walrus rook lies the Bird reef, which is awash at low water ; coasters should give this danger a wide berth, not bringing the Long point baoy to bear to the westward of S.W. ; with this bearing a vessel will be in 2 fathoms at low water. ** Anolioraffe. — In the bay there is excellent anchorage in 4 fathoms, with the jetty end bearing E.S.E., distant about 2 cables' lengths. Small vessels can anchor in 3 fathoms, with the end of the jetty bearing S.S.E. to S. "Alongside the jetty will be found good berths, from 8 to 14 feet, shoaling towards the shore.*' Fresh water is scarce at Wallaroo, SUey Point, to the northward of Wallaroo, is a cliffy projection, in Lat. 33° 53' S., Long. 137° 38' E., and with cape Coudillao to the N.W. by W. contracte the breadth of the gulf to 20 miles ; thence to Lowly point the eastern shore is encumbered with shoals, extending 5 to 12 miles from the beach and connected with it $ on which account, when proceeding upwards, keep 5 or 6 miles off the western shore. Middle shoal is 10 miles off the land, and is always covered. For the navigation northward of Wallaroo, the chart will be the best guide. VOST JkVaUBTJkf near the head of the navigation of Spencer gulf, is important from being the only shipping port for the northern copper mines and pastoral dis* tricts of South Australia. The northern part of Spencer gulf, leading to the port, is an estuary about 40 miles long at point Lowly, and 8 miles broad — gradually contracting to a quarter of a mile above the port. The high range of mountains on the east side of the estuary, called Flinders range, has several conspicuous peaks— mount Brown and mount Bemarkable being over 3000 feet in height. Vessels running for port Lowly, from the S.W., have sometimes mistaken a gap, to the westward of point Lowly, for tlie entrance to port Augusta estuary, which does not show till close up to point Lowly; but mount Brown can almost always be seen, and when it bears N. by E. ^ E., point Lowly is directly in line. The following directions were issued in 1862, the result of the survey by CoM- MA17DBB HuTCHiNSOir and Mb. P. Howaed, R.N. : — Volnt &owly is a long low point, and makes out with a high sandy beach on its southern side — ^the land gradually rising about half a mile to the westward. Although the point is steep-to, a berth of not less than half a mile should be given to it, by a large vessel, to avoid a bank of hard sand and rock N.N.E. ^ E., ^ of a mile from X X 2 070 AUSTRALIA— S. COAST. the point Point Lowly shoal is 2 cables in length north and sonth, and 1 cable east and west ; the least water on it being 2^ fathoms at low water springs. A cairn of stones 9 feet high has been erected on point Lowly, the base being 15 feet above high water ; it stands in Lat. 33^ S., Long, not yet determined. From the cairn, mount Brown bears N. 21° W E. (trne), and is 31^ miles distant. Point IRTardi on the east side of the estuary, is 8 miles from point Lowly, and is low and fringed with mangrove. A long sand-spit runs out from point Ward to within 3^ miles of point Lowly, leaving a channel with 13 fathoms water on t^e west side of the estuary. The deep water channel is confined to the vicinity of the west coast the whole way to port Augusta— the east coast being low and fronted with extensive sand flats. Baoky Bay. — ^The coast is nearly straight from point Lowly to the N.N.W. for 6 miles, being the head of Backy bay, formed of low whitish cliffs and stony beaches, with mangroves after the first 3 miles. From the head of the bay, £. | S. 2 miles, is Backy point — ^bold, black, and rocky — approachable in 8 fathoms to a cable's length. The coast line is broken and rocky to Crag point, which is li miles (N. by E. i E.) beyond. Bonglas Point is N. f E., 2^ miles from Crag point, and is rocky, with a low black cliff. The coast between Crag and Dougks points forms two bays, with sand flats at low water drying out to the line of points, whilst the S-fathom line is half a mile farther out. Douglas hills are a group of detached grassy hills, some having deep rocky ravines between them. There is a sheep station among, the hills (which are covered with grass and a few stunted bushes) carrying about 2500 sheep. The shepherd's stone hut and well can be seen from the sea about two-thirds of a mile in shore, and 1 mile to the northward of Douglas point. The well is 120 feet deep, and supplies about 240 gallons of very brackish water per day. The well is conspicuous, having a heap of white limestone round it, thrown up during its excavation. A cairn of stones has been erected on the hill, about half a mile N.W. of the hut, which is 645 feet above high-water mark. Bonglaa Bank lies N. by E. 2 J miles from Douglas point, with only 11 feet on it at low water. It is about half a mile long north and south, and 1 cable east and west. The shallowest water is on the west side, which deepens suddenly to 6 and 8 fathoms, whilst the east side gradually deepens to 6 fathoms half a mile off. Mount Gullet, the low dat hill on the east coast, bearing E. by N., clears the bank, the ship passing 2 cables to the southward in 5 fathoms — and the same hill E. i S. clears it to the northward in 6 fathoms. Crag point and Douglas point in line S. } W. just clears the west side in 7 fathoms — and Backy point in line with Crag point, S. by W. -J W. (or Two Hummock point extreme in line with the northern end of the Bluff range N.N.W. i W.), clears it, passing half a mile to the eastward. Douglas bank leaves a clear channel to the we8twai*d /^ of a mile, and to the eastward more than a mile, in width. Prom abreast Douglas bank to Two Hum- mock point, the coast feature is thick mangrove with low land behind. Two Hnmmook Point is 6 miles N. i W. from Douglas point, and is low and with alternate rock and sand beach. With two scrub-covered hummocks, one on the point and the other about half a mile to the northward, the latter is the higher^ and is 86 feet above high water. There is a third or west hummock about 1-J miles PORT AUGUSTA. 677 in-shore of the other two. The sand dries nearly a half mile out at low water oft" Two Hummock point, and a 2-fathom bank extends three-quarters of a mile to the south-eastward. Kiddle Bank is N. by E. i E., 1^ miles from Tvfo Hummock point, and is nearly in the centre of the channel. It extends -^jj of a mile N.N.W. and S.S.E., with an average breadth of 1 cable. The least water on it is 7 feet at low water springs. Middle bank leaves a clear channel to the westward of -^^y of a mile, and the east- ward of half a mile. The west channel is preferred, and is the more direct. The western or in-shore hummock, open north of the south hummock of Two Hummock point on a bearing of S.W. f W., clears the bank, the ship passing 1 cable to the southward in 4i fathoms ; — or the Mangrove point, north of Two Hummock point, in a line with the north side of a deep ravine in Bluff range, W.N.W., just clears the south end in 3^ fathoms. Mount Brown, in line with the extreme mangroves on north side of Bed Cliff point bearing N.E., clears the bank, the vessel passing 1 cable to the northward in 4 fathoms. There are no clearing marks to the westward, but, in passing, the water ought not to be shoaler than 8 fathoms. aianobe Barbour. — From Two Hummock point the coast trends N.W. for 3 miles to a low mangrove point, and then takes a bend westward for 1 mile, and forms a bay with low mangrove shores. The low water edge, however, continues N.W. for 5i miles from Two Hummock point, forming the West sands, inside of which is Blanche harbour, with 1 or 2 fathoms water. This harbour has two entrances, one to the northward between West sands and the shore, and one to the eastward through the sands. Prom Blanche harbour the coast runs N. i E. 6J miles to Commissariat point, the general aspect being a rough stony beach, fronted with sand at low water, and mangroves at high water. The land behind slopes up to the Bluff range, which at Commissariat point is only 1^ miles in-shore. CommlMarlat Volnt is the eastern extreme of the round portion of the Bluff, and is not made out till you are well to the northward or southward. From the Bluff it bears N.E., and is W. i N., 2 miles from point Faterson, on the oppo- site point of the estuary, which here narrows considerably. The sand dries half a cable's length outside the mangroves at Commissariat point, and there is a 2-fathoms' bank 2 cables beyond it. A similar bank extends from the spit, forming the other side of the channel, and contracts the 3-fathom channel to 2 cables in width. Tlie Bloir is the eastern and highest part of a long flat-topped range which rises near point Lowly, and continues to abreast Snapper point, when it turns sharp off to the westward, leaving a detached ridge at the angle which makes out from the Houth-eastward in two peaks, called the Sisters. The S.E. Sister is 730 feet above high-water mark. A cairn of stones 8 feet high has been erected on the Bluff, 940 feet above high water, but can hardly be distinguished from the scattered bushes near the summit, only a few hundred feet wide, the range then sloping gently to the westward. Volnt Vatemon is a low point with a sandy beach, and large clump of thick mangroves immediately to the northward. The sand flat dries nearly 2 miles off it. to the south-eastward. When in the main channel, and the north end of the beach 678 .AUSTRALIANS. COAST. at point Paterson bears E. by N., the entrance to port Paterson is open, and runs nearly straight for 2 miles to the north-eastward. Vort Vateraon is an extensive sheet of water to the eastward of the long sand spit» which extends nearly 3 miles to the southward of Snapper point The harbour carries 3^ fathoms water at low water springs, over a space 1 mile in diameter, with a muddy bottom. The approach to port Paterson is 2 miles in length, and in two places the deep water is confined to a width of one cable, with a depth of not less than 4 fathoms. The best time to enter port Paterson is at low water, as the banks show on each side ; but if they are covered, the different streams of tide fill the channel with eddies, and give the appearance of the whole being blocked up. There are no marks to lead up the entrance. An inner basin opens through a narrow passage on the northern side of port Paterson. There is about 8 feet water, at low water springs, across the mouth of the entrance ; but in the passage the water increases to 2^ and 3 fathoms. The passage is winding, about a quarter of a mile long and about 80 yards wide, opening into a circular basin at low water, half a mile in diameter, with a general depth of 2i fathoms. The drawback to port Paterson is the extent of sand and mnd fiat surrounding it on all sides, rendering communication with the shore difficult ader half ebb. The adjacent coast, too, is a swamp with the exception of the sandy beach to the north* ward of the inner basin, which is nearly half-a-mile from the low-water mark. Only one vessel has ever been known to use this port to discharge a cargo, and, as it is not in the main stream of tide, the fear is that it may bo filling up like Tatala harboar* Snapper Point, 3 miles N. i E. from Commissariat point, is a low mangro?e point, extending out a mile from the high-water beach. The estuary suddenlj^ narrows here to -^ of a mile from mangrove to mangrove, and assumes more the appearance of a river, with dense mangrove flats on each side. From Snapper point, northward, to Onriew point, the channel inclines to the east coast. Snapper point is 1 mile south of Curlew point and island. Cnrtew Zalaad is merely a large thick patch of mangroves, separated from the point by a narrow channel, dry at low water, and has a small sandy knoll at its north end, which only covers at higb water springs. To the northward of Snapper point the channel becomes so narrow and winding that a pilot is necessary at present. The South Australian Qovemment intend, however, to mark the channel with buo3's and beacons, when the navigation will be easy with a leading wind, without which no square-rigged vessel should come beyond Commissariat point. The wind from S.S.W. roimd by the South to £.S.£. is a loading wind through all the reaches going up, and the opposite in coming down. CAtTTloir.— To the northward of Snapper point the channel shows at low water springs as the sands uncover, leaving a width of from a quarter of a mile to less than one cable. There are, however, some dangers which do not show at low water, the principal of which are— 1. The bank forming the narrows off Curlew point which runs out northward and north-westward of Curlew island about 2 cables. It is very uneven, with from 8 to 12 feet water on it» and leaves a 3^ to 4 fathom channel on its northern side, half a cable in width and 2 cables in length. Digitized by LjOOQIC PORT AUGUSTA. 679 2. A 10-feet bank rans half a cable off the S.E. side of the Band islet knoll between Curlew and Orchard points, and a 7-feet patch of hard sand, covered with weeds, lies 2 cables S. W. of Orchard point 3. A much larger patch carrying the same depth lies 2 cables N.W. of the same point, right in mid-channel. At low water springs the depth right across is not more than 14 feet abreast this shoal, while there is no more than 13 feet at low water across the entrance of the narrow reach, between Brown point and the flagstaff at port Augusta. 4. S. by W. i W., 4 cables from the flagstaff, the 9-feet bank shoals out on the west side, leaving the 12-feet channel less than half a cable in width. 5. S.W. i S., 2 cables from the flagstaff, is the 6-feet shelf on which the barque Rangoon grounded in 1861, sustaining serious damage. This bank is dangerous from being composed of hard sand and stones, and from the ebb tide settmg right on to it. 9ott Angnsta. — ^The township of port Augusta is situated on the east bank of the estuary, about 4 miles above Curlew point. The house of the Collector of Customs stands on a low sandy point at the south end of the township, and has a flagstaff in front of it. The township extends along the beach, to the northward, for about a quarter of a mile, as yet consisting of only a few wooden houses, and two substantial stone and brick stores. At port Augusta the bank is pretty steep ; the mangroves have been cleared away in front of the township, and two wooden jetties run out to low-water mark. Off the end of one, the coi^ting steamer, which runs to and from port Adelaide twice a month, lies aground at low water. The port reach is nearly 2 cables in width, and nearly half a mile long at low water. There is plenty of room for eight or ten large vessels to swing at moorings, in from 18 to 20 feet water at low water springs. SnppUes. — ^All sorts of dry goods can be obtained at the stores, and fresh meat from Stirling ,* but vegetables are not to be had, the surrounding country not being fit for cultivation. Fresh water cannot be obtained except from Woolundunga, a distance of 18 miles, by dray. There are some wells at Stirling, but they are very brackish. Fire- wood can be obtained in*small quantities. The Government intends laying down water-pipes between Woolundunga and port Augusta to supply the town and shipping. Fish may be caught in great quantities with a hook and line, principally snapper* The best snapper ground is between Snapper and Curlew points, and close off the N.W. edge of the bank forming the narrows at Curlew point. Exports, ^d.— The trade of port Augusta is chiefly in exports^— vessels coming up in October and November for the year's clip of wool, and taking away a great quantity of copper ore; The trade is fast increasing. The residence of the sub-collector of Customs on the point is also the shipping- office, poet-office, court-house, lreotlona.~rairwaj- Counea. — From half a mile off shore at point Lbwly, the best course would be N. ^ E. for about 12 miles, according to tide. This course would take you 1 mile clear of Backy point, and two-thirds of a mile off point Douglas, and past Douglas bank, leaving it to the westward. Backy point ought to be kept in sight or in line with Crag point, bearing S. by W. ^ W., until the northern extreme of Bluff range comes on with Two Hummock point (extreme) bearing N.N.W. i W. When this latter mark comes on, the course can be altered to N. by W. to pass Two Hummock point. The course of N. ^ E., from half a mile off point Lowly, passes only 2 cables outside point Lowly shoal, in 10 fathoms. From thence to Backy point the bottom is uneven — from 6 to 12 fathoms ; but between that point and point Douglas you would have 12 to 10 fathoms, and then it shoals gradually to i fathoms, passing to the eastward of the bank. The N. by W. course should be kept till the north hummock of Two Hummock point bears west, which will be a distance of 3^ miles nearly ; then the course is N.W. f N. to pass through Flinders channel between the east and west sands, taking care not to come under 7 fathoms in the vicinity of Middle Bank. The sands are nearly one mile apart, and generally show. When Commissariat point bears north, or Red Cliff is nearly in line with the foot of mount Grainger, bearing S.E. by E. I E., alter course tOiJjJj J ^^ pass through PORT AUGUSTA. 681 Bluff reach. At the point of altering course, the mangroves on the west side ought to be distant about half a mile, gradually closing as you approach Commissariat point, off which you should pass a quarter of a mile, until point Faterson bears W. i S., then steer N. by W. i W. through the first part of Snapper reach: just before you round Commissariat point the soundings decrease to 3^ and 4 fathoms at low water. In running through Snapper reach, after passing the last stony point on the west coast, and abreast thick mangroves — ^with South Sister bearing W. by N.^alter to N.E. f N., passing little more than 1 cable's length off Snapper point. Afler getting through Snapper reach, the course is curving the whole way, the reaches being very short. If wishing to pass inshore to the westward of Douglas bank, where you have the strongest tides and deepest water, when off Douglas point in 9 or 10 fathoms, and steering N. i E., alter course to N. by W. for the South hummock, taking care to have Crag pobt out of sight behind Douglas, while mount Gullet^ between the bearings of B. by N. and E. J S., and not coming into less than 9 fathoms. When mount Gullet bears E. J S., haul out from the land N. by E., till the inshore hummock comes on with the south part of Two Hummock point, W. ^ S., when you can shape the course up Flinders channel as before. ABoHorare. — There is anchorage in any part of the estuary ; but southward of Douglas bank the best anchorage is towards the east coast in about 6 fa- thoms, as the strength of the tide runs along the west coast in the deep water. An anchorage in Backy bay, with point Lowly bearing S. ^ W. 3 miles, has been recommended ; but in winter, when strong north and west winds are frequent, more shelter may be obtained with Backy point bearing from N.W. to W.N.W., distant about 1 mile, in 6 fathoms, sand, near the head of the bay, where a ship would be out of the tide. In the strong S.S.E. winds which prevail during the summer months, when port Augusta is most visited, a vessel seeking anchorage for the night, or a tide, would do well, when inside point Lowly, to haul to the eastward, and let go in 6 fathoms under the lee of Ward spit. Tides. — The tides in port Augusta estuary are very peculiar. At port Augustii it is high water at full and change, at 8h. 3Qm., and at point Lowly at 7h. The rise of ordinary springs at the first place vaides from 9 to 12 feet, and at the latter place 6 to 8 feet'; but after a hot wind, when the wind veers round to west and south, and blows strong, the tide at port Augusta has been known to reach a height of 16 feet. After the full and change of the moon, the time of high water gets gradually later till the time of neap tides, when it is high water between lOh. and llh., both at port Augusta and point Lowly. Then a day occurs on which the tide ebbs or flows for twelve hours together, the whole tide ofben not ranging more than a few inches. After this the tides become regular again, but the time of high water changed to between 5h. and 6h., and gradually working up to the full and change times :— from which it may be said generally that you have high water in the morning and evening, and low water in the middle of the day at port Augusta. The night tide is generally a foot or two higher than the morning tide. The stream sets fairly up and down the channel at from 1^ to 2 knots per hour, and changes with the rise and fall ;— except about the mouths of the small channels through East sands, and to the southward 682 AUSTRALIA— S. COAST. of Douglas bank, where the flood sets across N.W. into the deep channel, the ebb setting out SJL ^iTlnds «ad Weftther^ — Daring the summer months strong south and S.S.E. winds prevail ; and in January, February, and March they are often interrupted by hot winds which blow fiercely from the northward, sometimes for seven or eight days, raising the temperature to 120° in the shade. The hot winds frequently ter« minate in a squall from the southward, or thunderstorm from S.W. ; they blow under a cloudless sky, and a thick red haze prevails. Whirlwinds are oommon in the summer, but they usually confine themselves to the plain between Flinders range and the Gulf, where several may be seen at once — raising a pillar of dust to a great height. Very little rain falls in the year. During the months of April and May some strong northerly winds were ei« perienced, with a hard oold*looking sky. These winds, although coming from the same quarter as the hot winds, did not raise the temperature above 75^ or 80°. During the winter months, generally, N.W. to S.W. winds prevail. Pilots, 4kc* — ^It has been the custom, hitherto, for vessels bound to port Augusta to proceed first to port Adelaide, and there pick up a pilot for Spencer gulf and port Augusta. The outward bound vessels frequently leave their pilots at Wedge island, at the mouth of Spencer gulf* Tugs can be procured £rom port Adelaide, to which place a mail goes, overland, once a week. The steamer trading to port Augusta frequently tows vessels, up or down, through the estuary, on her trips backwards and forwards. MJkMaAM06 Ifl&AirB, at the entrance to the gulf of St. Vincent, is 76 miles in length east and west, and about 28 miles in breadth ; it is elevated, an4 well wooded, presenting on its northern side a steep cliffy shore, apparently free from dangers, and extending nearly in a line about E. by N. 50 miles, with oooasionally a sandy beach. Cape BorAa« the NtW. point of Kangaroo island, is in Lat. 36^ 46^ 8., Long. 136° 38' E. The hills behind it are well wooded j and about 8 miles to the N.E. by B., where the land projects considerably from the coast line, they are marked with perpendicular white streaks, visible at the distance of 16 miles. For the Ugbt on this cape, see p. 672. InvestlgAtor Strait* formed by Kangaroo ishmd with the southern part of Yorke peninsula, extends upwards of 60 miles E. by N. and W. by S., and preserves an average breadth of 23 miles. With the exception of Althorpe isles, near cape Spencer, and a alio«l flat that extends 3 or 4 miles off a very low point to the westward of Troubridge hUl, this strait is believed to be free from dangers, and contains ample depth of water. Captaik Flikdbbs says, " From 46 &thoms, in the middle of the western entrance, the depth diminishes quickly to 26, then more slowly to 20; after which it is irregular between 12 and 20 fathoms, as far as the mouth of the gulf of St. Vincent. Of the two sides, that of Kangaroo island is much the deepest; but there is no danger in any part to prevent a ship passing through the strait with perfect confidence. The bottom ia mostly broken shells, mixed with sand, gravel, or coral, and appeared to hold well." f in Lat ZQP 34V S., Long. 137^ 43^' E., the northern exixemity KANQABOO ISLAND. 683 of Kangaroo island, is a cliffy projection, rather lower than the land to the westward of it, and has a spit extending from it E.S.E. abont 9 miles. It forms the north head of Nepean bay, which is 18 miles across its entrance to Kangaroo head. Cape Wllloii8rb1>7, the eastern extremity of Kangaroo island, is a thickly- wooded projection. Bound its north side is Antechamber bay, which is about 4 miles across N. W. by W. ^ W., and nearly 2 miles deep ; it aifords good shelter from all southerly winds ; but a S.E. gale would probably throw too much swell round cape Willoughby to render this anchorage quite safe at such a time, therefore, with a prospect of its blowing hard from that quarter, a ship should give a preference to Nepean bay, round the west side of Kangaroo head, where she may lie completely sheltered at a mile from the shore. UgHt. — A lighthouse, exhibiting a revolving light, has been erected on cape Willoughby. The light appears at intervals of a minute and a half, ^nd being elevated 241 feet above high water, may be seen at the distance of 24 miles, and on all bearings from N. by W. i W. round by the eastward to S.W. by W. i W. ; position, Lat. 35° 51' 33" S., Long. 138° la 50" E. MAOKBTAIMB PAflSAOB, the eastern entrance to Investigator strait and the gulf of St. Vincent, is formed between the N.E. part of Kangaroo island and cape Jervis, and is 7 or 8 miles wide in its narrowest part. In this channel is Tatala tlioalf extending N.W. and S.E. 3 miles, and a ^ of a mile wide, the depths on it varying Arom 3 to 8 fathoms, but as soon as its margin is passed deepens to 14 fathoms ; from its eastern extremity cape Willoughby bears S. by W., cape Jervis N.W. by N., and the southernmost Page islet E.S.E. i E. The tide flows through Back- stairs passage to the eastward, at the rate of 2 knots, and having been the chief C4iuse of the accumulation of Yatala sandbank, there may now be less water on it. The Fages are three small rocky islets N.E. by N. 8 to 10 miles from cape Wil- loughby ; the two northernmost are conspicuous, bold-to, and lie 7 or 8 miles from the high land of cape Jervis; the southern islet is low, and has a reef extending 1^ miles south of it. The Islets, Bocks, &c, off the S. side of Kangaroo island, are as follow :— Cmpe Ckmflieaniiie is the southernmost extremity of Kangaroo island, in Lat. 36° 4' S., Long. 137° 33' E., to the N.W. of which is a deep bight, called Vivonne bay. P€Utt%»» t»l0tf 30 feet high, and visible 8 miles, has a donsiderable ledge (just awash) extending 2 miles S.W.-ward of it ; from the islet cape Linois bears N.E. by N. 7 miles, cape Gantheanme 2^ miles, and cape Willoughby N.E. by E. ^ E. 31 milesi Some covered ro^lu, not always indicated by broken water, He E. ^ S. 4 miles from cape Keraaint, the western extremity of Yivonne bay; there is deep water close to them. Iiipaon Seeff partly awash and partly undovered, lies S.S.W. f W., 7 miles from cape Bouguer, a projection 15 miles westward of cape Kersaint. Off cape Couedie, 10 miles westward of cape Bougtler, some roekt t extending from S; to S.W., lie 2 miles distant from that cape. Toitng Book09 nearly on the meridian of, and 20 to 23 miles from capti Ker- saint, are three in number; the largest, 30 feet high, is in Lat. 30° 20^' S., Long. 137° 521" E., and bears S.W. i W. 48 miles from cape Willoughby, ttnd S. f E. 684 AUSTRALIA— S. COAST. 19 miles from cape Kcrsaint ; of tho two smaller rocks, ouo (10 feet high) is to the northward, and the other to the S.W.-ward, each ahout 3 miles from the position given above. The depth in the vicinity of these rocks is considerable ; soundings taken as near to them as could bo approached, gave 45 fathoms ; nevertheless, on the parallel of the northernmost rock, but 23 miles to the westward, the Swan river packet and the Sagle reported breakers, and the Pelorus also at an inter- mediate distance. Macbie Reef was reported in 1851, by Caft. F. Michii:, of tho Fhahe Dunbar: it is stated to be in Lat. 36° 33' S., Long. 136° 31 V E., and 30 miles to the S. S.W.-ward of cape Couedie ; it was in sight nearly an hour, and appeared to be entirely covered, but composed of several heads on which the sea broke. Cape Bedont, the S.W. extremity of Kangaroo island, is in Lat. 35° 56' S., Long. 136° 36i' E. To the southward and N.W.-ward, rocks project from it to the distance of 1^ to 2^ miles. Troubridfire BUI, in Lat. 35^ 11' S.,Long. 137°4iy E., on the northern shore of Investigator strait, is an inconsiderable hummock standing on a low sandy land, one mile from the shore, and appears at a distance like an island. Troubrldre Sboala. — Off the S.E. point of Yorke peninsula* at about 9 miles E.N.E.-ward of Troubridge hill, are the Troubridge shoals. These shoals, chiefly of hard sand, with rocks in the centre and on their southern part, are dry at low water: on the eastern shoal, which is separated from the main or western shoal by a narrow channel, is a sandy island, nearly \ a mile long, visible 4 or 5 miles ; there is also a dangerous detached reef about \ a mile from the rocks, on the southern edge of the western shoal, and S. \ W., 2 miles from the sandy island. Great caution is necessary hereabout, as the flood tide runs strongly over the shoals, both from Backstairs passage and through Investigator strait. CoMHANDES LiPSON, B.N., says : ''I would strongly recommend every com- mander, when coming through Investigator strait from the westward, to take his bearings and prove his situation as often as possible, and never to be to the north- ward of what he considers mid-channel ; he will then be in the fair stream, and, by his soundings, judge his distance from the shoals; if, on the contrary, he gets near Yorke peninsula, the tide will set him along the coast, where, the soundings varying but little, he will not have timely notice of his approach to the shoals." Iiiffbt on Tronbrldffe Island. — The lighthouse stands in the centre of tho island, in Lat. 35° 7' 60" S., Long. 137° 52' E. It shows a bright revolving light for 12 seconds every half minute ; when within a distance of about 7 miles a con- iinued faint light will be seen, in clear weather, between the intervals of tho brighter light. It stands at an elevation of 80 feet above the level of the sea, and is visible about 16 miles. The following dlrecttone were issued in connexion with this light : — Vessels bound through Investigator strait into St. Vincent gulf should make Troubridge light on a N.E. \ N. bearing, and steer E.N.E. ^ N. to pass it at a distance of 7 miles, bringing it to bear W. by N. ^ N. ; thence a course N.E. \ N. 30 miles will reach a berth 2 miles south-west of port Adelaide light-ship, when heave-to for a pilot or a steam-tug. Digitized by LjOOQIC re I- 4 I. 1, n I- 1. r. Digitized by Google ^TTfimTT ^T^ ' Q nnAQT 3 • II i 9 I ■ D 6 1 1 H^ff . Digitized by Google ADELAIDE. 685 Vessels from the westward and southward should not approach the Trouhridge light nearer than 4 miles, where they will find soundings in from 10 to 14 fathoms. Vessels bound down the gulf of St. Vincent in westerly gales will find good an- chorage under the lee of Troubridge island with the light bearing S.W. about 1.^ miles distance, in 8 fathoms over a clean and sandy bottom. Cape JerviB is a lofty and bold projection of the mainland in Lat. 35° 38' S., Long. 138° 9' E., and forms the east point of entrance to the vnlf of St. Vtncent. The breadth of the entrance to the gulf between cape Jervis and Troubridge hill, which bear N.W. i W., is 34 miles ; and in this space the soundings are regular, in 18 to 20 fathoms, decreasing to 11 or 12 on approaching within 4 miles of Trou- bridge shoals, and then deepening to 22 fathoms in mid-channel to the eastward. On the eastern shore of the gulf, opposite the shoals, there are some patches of cliff, with 20 fathoms 10 miles west of them, and 15 fathoms within 3 miles ; abore these the shore becomes low and sandy^ and is fronted by a shoal flat which extends 2 miles off it, and gradually bcreases in breadth to 5 or 6 miles in Lat. 34° SO' S. N.N.E. 42 - miles from cape Jervis is Holdfast bay and the town of aieneig i here there is anchorage 1^ miles from the shore, in 5 or 6 fathoms, clay, with the flagstaff in one with mount Lofty, bearing E. by N. A Jixed green livbt, visible 5 miles, is shown for mail steamers on the outer part of the jetty; position, Lat. 34° 59V 3*> ^^^' ^^^ ^^' ^i ^^^ anchorage is in 5 fathoms, with the light bearing E. by N. Coasters may approach the end of the jetty very closely ; but care should be taken to avoid a shoal patch on an oyster bank lying about a mile to the southward of the township. There is a depth of 10^ feet at the end of the jetty at low-water springs. JgefBwe Veninaula. — ^At this Pilot station a Jixed red light, visible 3 miles, is shown from the end of the jetty. Lat. 34° 50' S., Long. 138° 31' E. ABB&AXBS, the capital of South Austi*alia, lies inland about 6 miles from Glenelg. Vort Adelaide, 15 miles to the northward of Holdfast bay, is a considerable arm of the sea, reaching to a short distance from the town. The entrance to the port, which is well buoyed, is oyer a bar. Uffbt. — ^At the entrance to port Adelaide, 1 mile S.W. of the bar, a light vessel is moored in 5 fathoms. It exhibits two fixed white lights, one from each mast, visible 10 miles; position, Lat. 34° 49' S., Long. 138° 30' E. Pilots are always in attendance. A red buoy is stated to be placed on the bar, where at high water there are generally 15 feet. The tides are irregular, the rise varying from 4 to 6 feet, but greatest with S.W. winds. The following direotioiis for vessels bound to the Gulf of St. Vincent are by COMMAKDBE LiPSON, E.N.* : — From the westward : — " After making Kangaroo island, steer E. J N. through Investigator strait, passing between that island and Althorpe islands. Should the wind be from the eastward, no difficulty will be found in beating through the strait, nor anything in the way more than what is shown in Flindera' chart. In proceeding towards Holdfast bay or port Adelaide, great care is requisite to avoid Troubridge shoals, as the flood tide through Backstairs passage sets with gi'eat strength (particu- larly at P. and C.) directly upon the shoal ; therefore, on coming from the westward, * The light to which reference is made in these directions U the Adelaide light-vessel ; the light on Troobridge shoals was not established at that date. Digitized by CjOOQ IC 686 AUSTRALIA— S. COAST. the course should not be altered untQ Marsden point bears S.W. by W. ^ W., which will be about 10 miles from N.W. Bluff, the high land inside cape Jervis, when a course may be shaped for the lightvessel, which will be then about 40 miles distant. For about 6 leagues up the gulf the land is high and bold ; but above that the shore becomes very low, with hummocks of sand upon it, and the same descrip- tion of coast prevails to the head of the gulf. After passing the high coast-land, the water shoals some distance out, and in some places (when within the distance of 10 miles from the light) 5 fathoms will be found at a distance of 4 miles from the beach. "Be attentive to the soundings, particularly at night ; and in running up for the light, keep between 5 and 6 fathoms water, not approaching inside of 5, as within that depth tlie water shoals suddenly; and if in a greater depth than 6, a ship might pass to the westward of the light without seeing it. In these soundings the light will be made ahead, which may be seen 12 miles from a ship's deck. The shoal called the Bar, at the entrance of the port, bears N.E. 1 mile from the lightvessel. When within a proper distance a boat will be sent from her, with a pilot, and to receive all mails and letters. " Should the light be made in the early part of the night, a ship might anchor anywhere to the southward of it in 6 fathoms, or remain underway, being careful to keep to the southward of the light, and as near to it as it is possible by the morning, to ensure the tide. Where the lightvessel is moored in 34° 49' S. the anchorage is safe, but a full scope of chain is required, never less than 50 fathoms, and if it blows fresh a whole cable. Never let go the second anchor if it can be avoided ; rather give more chain, as the vessel will ride much easier with one anchor down than with two. " If, on coming from the eastward through Backstairs passage, and bound up tlie gulf, night should be approaching, keep on the north side of the passage, and haul round cape Jervis, all that coast being quite bold. When the gulf is open a course of N. by E. ^ E. may be steered for the lightvessel. " Bound down the gulf, steer from the lightvessel S.S.W., which course will keep the land on the east side of ^e gulf in sight, and out of the influence of the tide through Backstairs passage, until to the southward of Troubridge shoals ; but on no account steer a course under the impression that it will weather the shoals, thereby exposing the ship's broadside to a rapid tide running directly upon it, until sufficiently to the southward to shape a course down the strait. " In turning down the gulf, never exceed a distance of 10 miles from the eastern shore, as the opposite side is shallow; and be careful when standing in to keep the lead going, as it is shoal a considerable distance off, until as fiur down as to be abreast of the high land. In some places to the northward of Holdfast bay there are not more than 5 fathoms, at a distance of 4 miles from the beach, and the water shallows very quickly within that depth ; but where the high land fronts the sea the shore is steep, with the exception of a reef lying a mile off about three miles to the southward of Holdfast bay. " In moderate weather, by closing the shore at sunset, the wind, which usually blows from the land about that time, will be favourable for proceeding down the coast, being careful not to be thrown off until well down with cape Jervis, and to the southward of Troubridge shoals. "Ships bound down Investigator strait meeting a strong westerly wind may ONKAPAEINGA. 687 anchor on the east side of Marsden point, olose to the shore, in 6 fathoms water and good holding ground."* 9ort Oiikapariiiffa.t— Lat. 36'' KV W S., Long. 138'' SCV 30* £. High water, fall and change at 4h. ; rise and fall 6 feet. This convenient and safe little harhour is formed hy the protection which two reefs afford the anchorage. Fort Onkaparinga is situated 21 miles S. ^^ E. of the Lightship, off port Adelaide, and may he readily recognised hy Witton's hlnff— a reddish-coloured hold cliffy projection, having a remarkahle square detached rock at its hase— lying a short distance to the northward of the reefs. Masters of vessels intending to enter port Onkaparinga, in coming from the northward, should keep a full mile off the coast, until Witton's bluff bears east, to avoid the Horseshoe shoal^ which lies about half-a-mile to the northward of that headland. Vessels from the southward should keep a mile off the land, until the Cliff called Onkaparinga head bears east, when a course for either of the passages may be shaped. The coast in this part of the gulf is composed of sandhills, with occasional reddish* coloured cliffs of moderate elevation. The general character of the soundings is deep and regular, but occasional rocky points on this part of the coast have reefs projecting into deep water, which can be easily avoided by keeping a moderate distance off the land. As a rule, except bound into either of the out-ports, it will be prudent not to stand in into less than 9 fathoms water. A convenient jetty on the beach, inside the Onkaparinga reefs, having 5 feet at ordinary low water, at its outer extremity, has been lately erected under the shelter of the north reef; and, as it may be discerned at a considerable distance from sea* ward, is a good guide by which a stranger may pick up the entrance of the harbour. The reefs which form the breakwater to the harbour run parallel to the coast, at a distance of about 300 yards from low water mark. They are covered at higli water for a short time, but at other periods distinctly mark their extent and direc* tion by showing above the sea. Outside the reefs, from 6 to 7 fathoms will be found at a moderate distance. In the centre of the middle channel as much as 5 fathoms will be obtained, which depth decreases to 3 fathoms close to the extremities of the reefs. In the north channel an average depth of 3 fathoms will be found. In the south channel (which should only be used by very small craft) 10 feet will be found close to the southern extremity of the south reef. The north reef measures about 630 yards in length, by about 30 yards in breadth. The south reef measures 550 yards in length, by about 30 yards in breadth. The highest portions of each reef do not exceed 4 feet above low water mark ; they are, therefore, during high spring tides, covered to the depth of 2 feet. Inside the ree& the soundings 'vary from 2 to 4 fathoms, the deepest water being close to the reefs ; the northern part of the harbour having the most wat«r« « '^Nsutioal Magazine,*' 1846, p. 145. t The dlreotlons fbr Onkaparinga, TankalUla, Second Valley, and Bosetta harboor, are by C APT. B. Douglas, nayal officer of South Australia (1860). i r-k r\ n i ^ • Digitized by VJiJLJV IV^ 688 AUSTRALIA-S. COAST. Jfoorinffs .'—Under the north reef, mooringSi composed of the following anchors and chains, have heen placed : — North set .—One anchor (18 cwt.) over the reef, with 60 fathoms of 1^ inch chain. South set : — One anchor (15 cwt) in a hole on the reef, hacked to a large rock, with 60 fathoms of 1^ inch chain. To each of these chains is attached a small huoy chain, which is merely intended to hold the hno}'. Masters of vessels using these moorings will therefore ohserve, that it is necessary to haul up on the small baoj diain, nntil they can shackle on their own best bower cable to the mooring chain. It is also necessary to take out an anchor in-shore, with a good scope of chain, as the land winds blow fresh at night, during the pre- valence of south-easterly winds. Under the south reef the following moorings are placed :— One anchor (18 cwt.) over the reef, with 60 £a.thomfl of li inch chain. One anchor (18 cwt.) on the sandy beach, with 30 fathoms of Ih inch chain. Small buoy chains are attached for holding the buoys. Masters of vessels using this part of the harbour will observe, that it is not necessary to use their own anchors ; but they must perfectly understand that the mooring chains are not attached to each other ; it is therefore requisite to moor to both chains, either head and stem, or allow the vessel to swing, by mooring her midway between the reef and the beach. Ample room for any vessel not exceeding 100 feet in length will be found. Beacons .—Beacons for leading through the various channels have been placed as follows, viz. !— For the north channel — A round black beacon on the jetty, in a line with a square and red beacon on the top of a sand hill, leads into the harbour in 3 fathoms. If the wind be off the land, after having passed the end of the north reef, stand in towards the beach, as close as the draught of the vessel will admit, and drop the small bower; from this veer away towards the mooring buoy, and pick up the large chain as directed. Should the wind be from the westward, it will, of course, be necessary to pick up the buoy first ; and should it be blowing fresh, it is needful to drop an anchor under foot, until the large chain is hove in, as dependence cannot be placed on the small buoy chain, if the vessel is pitching to the short sea which comes over the reef at high water. The middle channel is marked by two square red beacons, bearing, when in line, north, which lead into the harbour in 5 fathoms. On passing the ends of the reefs, a course may be shaped for either of the moorings. Vessels entering by the middle channel will be guided by circumstances as to which moorings they go to. The northern should be prefen^ed, as the water is smoother under the north reef, and they are more convenient to the jetty. The southern channel is marked by a round black beacon on the beach, under the sand hills, to the southward of the jetty, which, brought in a line with the upper red beacon, on the summit of the sand hills, leads into the harbour in 10 feet at low water springs. It is necessary to borrow close to the south end of the south reef, to avoid the shoal spit which projects from the sandy beach opposite the end of the reef. From my experience relative to this harbour, I can speak most highly as to its capabilities as a safe port for coasters, not exceeding 200 tons, of moderate draught of water. Digitized by LjOOQIC YANKALILLA AND SECOND VALLEY. 689 In weBterly gales, a short sea comes over the reefs at high water, but, at other times of tide, when the reefs are uncovered, the water within is quite smooth. The jetty and tramway will be found a great convenience in loading. Taii]uama.-~The jetty at this pkce lies in Lat. 35° 28' 20" S., Long. 138''2r SCVE. High water, full and change, at 3h. 30m. ; rise and fall at springs, 6 feet. The jetty is erected near the entrance of a small creek, on the long line of sandy beach, to the southward of the bold headland termed " Carricalinga." The soundings off the jetty decrease from 5 fathoms, on a sandy bottom, at a mile distant from the shore, to 4 fathoms, at three-quarters of a mile, when the whole extent from thence, to within a few yards of the beach, is one mass of rocks. Moorings. — As no anchors could hold on a bottom of so objectionable a nature, moorings have been placed as follows i^^ In 3 fathoms at low water spring tides, at a distance of 800 yards from the jetty, an anchor of 75 cwt. is placed, from which 50 fathoms of 2 inch chain is stretched ont ; to the end of this heavy cable a I inch buoy chain is shackled on and attached to a buoy. Masters .of vessels using these moorings will have to haul up on the buoy chain until the large chain is above water; then they must shackle on the ship's best bower cable, and veer away according to circumstances. As these moorings are merely intended to afford security to vessels during westerly winds, it is hardly necessary to observe, that the vessel making use of them must let go her small bower in shore in the event of the wind coming off the land. Masters of vessels are strictly enjoined not to hang on to the small buoy chain, as the constant friction on that portion of the chain touching the ground, effects so great a reduction in the size, as renders it necessary to renew it annually. The heavy chain, lying generally on the bottom, is not affected in this manner. In 2 fathoms, at low water, and distant from the jetty 300 yards, moorings are placed for 2 small coasters. They are as follows : — Two anchors of 25 cwt. each, with 90 fathoms of 1| inch chaiuj stretched north and south, having 2 buoy chains of 15 fathoms each, of 1^ inch chain. Small crafl, using these moorings, may shackle on their cable to the buoys, and veer away towards the jetty. seoond VaUey.-Lat. 35° 31' 10" S., Long. 138° 17' 0" E. High water, full and change, 3h. 20m.; rise and fall, 6 feet. This little cove lies about 4i miles S.W. of Yankalilla, and is formed by a slight indentation of the coast. The soundings are bold and deep, dose to a rooky point, which forms the western hora of this little bay. A convenient wharf and tramway have lately been erected. The anchorage is quite exposed to all winds from W.S.W., round by N.W. to N.N.E. The sea sets in rapidly, and with great violence, on the approach of a westerly gale. The rocky point, at which the wharf is constructed, affords some protection in southerly winds to small craft; but I would recommend all masters of vessels to leave this very exposed anchorage on the first symptoms of bad weather. Moorings, — For the convenience of coasters, not exceeding 100 tons, the following moorings have been laid down : — y Y Digitized by VjOOQIC 090 AUSTRALIA— S. COAST. 90 fathomii of If inch chain, with its ioBhore end attached to the heftvy timber of the wharf, and ita other extremity fast to an anchor of 25 cwt. On this chain, in 4 and 6 fathoms water reapectiyely, are hnoy chams of 1 inch, 16 fathoms in length. Masters of vessels using these moorings may shackle on their own cables to the buoys, and reer away according to the state of the weather. To the S.E.-ward of cape Jervis is anoonnter bay, in which are soundings of 20 fathoms at 5 or 6 miles from the shore, but it is too much exposed to the South and S.W. winds. At the north end of the bay are Bosetta harbour and Port Elliot. Sotetta Barbour, Bncomiter Bay.— Lat. 35^ 36' 20'' S., Long. 138^ 4ff 10" £. High water, full and change, Ih. 15ni. ; rise and fall 6 feet. Bosetta harbour is formed by the indentation of the coast, under the remarkable peak termed Bosetta head. This headland may be readily recognised by its conical shape. The height of the peak is 344 feet above sea level. Due north from the point of the headland, at a distance of one quarter of a mile, lies Wright's island. This island is high and steep on its S.E. and S.W. sides. From the N.W. point of the island, a reef of rocks extends to the mainland, in a south-westerly direction, on which the sea breaks heavily in bad weather. Moorings. — Moorings, capable of holding small coasters only, have been laid down as follows : — The end of a 1^ inch chain, 90 fathoms in length, is attached to the heavy timber of a convenient wharf, situated under the peak, inside the harbour, with the northern end shackled to a 20 cwt. anchor, let go in 6^ fathoms, to the northward of the wharf. On the mooring chain, at a convenient distance from the wharf, in 4 fathoms, at low water, is shackled 16 fathoms of 1 inch buoy chain. Vessels making use of these moorings may shackle on to the buoy and veer away according to circumstances. Vessels entering Bosetta harbour, in coming from the westward, should round the headland under the peak closely, taking care, however, not to get becalmed by the high land, if the wind is from the westward. Soundings will be found from 2 fathoms close to the wharf, to 6 fathoms along^ side the rocks, on the S.W. and S.E. sides of Wright's island, with 7 fathoms 20 yards from Bosetta head. Vessels working in with the wind at N.W., in standing to the N.E., should not bring the south part of Wright's island to bear to the southward of east, to avoid the rocks lying between that island and Granite island. Bosetta harbour affords accommodation for 2 small vessels only. During all winds from S.S.W. to N.E., round by N., the anchorage is smooth; all the other winds bring in a swell. During S.E. gales the anchorage is unsafe. Port Slliot has limited anchorage in 4 to 7 fathoms, but is well protected from the southward by Lipson island ; heavy moorings have been laid down for five vessels of large tonnage; a stranger should not enter without signalling to the harbour- master. Moorings in the Inner Sarhour, — The following are the particulars respecting the moorings placed in the inner-harbour of Port Elliot. Digitized by LjOOQIC CAPE BEENOUILLI. 691 The outer end of the mooring-chain is fastened round the N.W. rook of the ^ Sisters/' and stretched from thenoe, in a W.N.W. direction^ towards the beach, about half a cable's length to the southward of the red leading beacons, where a single-fluked anchor of 4 tons is laid down in 12 feet at low water, with the inner end of the chain attached to it. The mooring-chain, 187^ fathoms in length, is 2 inches in diameter, with the exception of the bight round the rock, and 12^ fathoms next the anchor, which portions are of 1} inch chain. The mooring-bridle at the outer buoy, consists of 12| fathoms of 1| inch chain, and of 16 fathoms of 1} inch chain, the latter being next the buoy. The inner-bridle is of 15 fathoms of 1^ inch chain. Vessels of large tonnage, drawing 12 feet, may lie at the