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5TANFOKD UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES

-.'.i'J.*. J*T' »— ■.■-.-- .■•.-.■ V ■....

TRAVELS

SOUTH-EASTERN ASIA,

DUST AN, MALAYA, SIAM. AND CHINA;

NUMEROUS MMSIONARY STATIONS,

THE BURMAN EMPIRE;

DISSERT ATIOK 8, TABLES,

BY HOWARD MALCOM.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. I.

BOSTON:
OOTTLD, KENDAIJs AND LINCOLN.

I BY BOOK9EI.I.EA9 I

TKAVELS
SOUTH-EASTERN ASIA,

BUST AN, MALAYA, SIAM, AND CtHNA ;

NUMEROUS MISSIONARY STATIONS,

THE BURMAN EMPIRE;

DISSERTATIONS, TABLES,

BY HOWARD MALCOM,

IN TWO V O I. U Jl C S

TOI>. I.

BOSTON:
GOULD, KENDAI,L, AND LINCOLN.

I BY aOOKBEIXEBB OENERAl

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1839,

Bt Gould, Kendall, and Lincoln,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Massachusetts.

1007 60

BTESaSOTYFED AT THE
BOSTON TYPE AND BTEBEOTTFE FOUNDRY.

PREFACE.

The only aim of the following pages is utility.
Had a place been sought among admired travellers, I
should have given more descriptions, incidents, and
delineations of private character ; and fewer facts,
opinions, and reflections ; which would at once have
saved labor, and rendered me less vulnerable.

Honest intentions, diligent inquiries, and fortunate
opportunities, will not secure a traveller from errors,
even in Europe or America, where, in every place, we
meet persons of veracity, and free to impart informa-
tion. In the East, the case is much worse. The
foreigner, dreaded for his power, and abhorred for
his religion, excites both civil and religious jealousy.
His manners often displease, by the omission of forms
of which he may be ignorant, or to which he cannot
succumb. He ia met with taciturnity, or wilful mis-
representation ; and if he escape these, he will gene-
rally encounter ignorance. If he be so happy as to
lind both intelligence and communicativeness, the want
of books, maps, charts, and statistics, renders the infor-
mation of natives merely local, and often conflicting.
Added to all, his interpreter may be unskilful. If he

4 PREFACE.

depends upon resident foreigners, their arrival may
have been recent^ or their opportunities small^ or their
inquiries negligent, or the statements of one may be
flatly contradicted by those of another. All these
embarrassments have met me by twns, so that fre-
quently, after laborious and continued inquiries, I have
been compelled to lay aside the whole mass of notes, in
the utter inability to decide whom to believe. I pre-
ferred silence, and apparent deficiency, to questionable
statements.

My advantages have, nevertheless, been great. I
was sent out, as the deputy and representative of one
of the great American Missionary Societies, to examine
into, and with the missionaries adjust, many points not
easily settled by correspondence ; to compare the various
modes of operation in difierent missions ; to survey the
field ; to compare the claims of proposed new stations ;
to comfort, encourage, and strengthen the missionaries
in their arduous work ; and to gather details on every
point where the Board lacked information. Such a
mission gave me confidence, in the eyes of all classes,
wherever I went ; and toleration in making investiga-
tions, which might otherwise have been deemed
impertinent. The time spent at each place, was suffi-
cient for deliberate inquiries, from various sources.
In most places, I found missionaries and civilians,
who had lived long on the spot, and who gave me the
fruits of mature and extended observations. My inter-
preters were in general not only thoroughly conversant
with the language, but in the habit of familiar inter-
course with the people, and possessing their confidence.

Before leaving a place, I generally submitted my notes
to several persons for a careful revision. If. therefore,
I should be convicted of errors, they are such aa the
best informed persons on the spot have fallen into, and
as my reader would have imbibed, had he been in my
place. Some errors may be charged to me, through
mistake of the objector; for often, when I read my
notes in various places, gentlemen dissented from some
statements with great confidence, the correctness of
which they admitted on further examination ; which
examination they would not have made, had I not
quoted some influential name as my informer.

It is, of course, out of the question to quote author>>
ties in a work not drawn from books. To have filled ;
the margin with names would have been to violate
propriety, while it could not add to the reader's con-
fidence to quote persons wholly unknown to him.
In every part of the work I have studiously sought
brevity, lest, by diminishing its circulation, my great
object should be defeated. Voluminous communica-
tions in relation to my official doings, inquiries, and
conclusions, are in possession of the Board, which will
not be withheld from the examination of proper appli-
cants.

Conversations with heathen, converted and uncon-
verted, often deeply interesting, are omitted, because
they occur so abundantly in the printed commu-
nications of missionaries. Descriptions, adventures,
and scenery, as well as geographical, commercial,
and political memoranda, are inserted only so far as
comported with the precise object in view. To have
I*

6 PREFACE.

abstained wholly from such observations, would have
been to withhold facts necessary to a proper knowledge
of the countries to which our friends extend their
benevolence; beside which, many of the friends of
missions have access to but few books ; and some will
be indebted to these pages, for most of their information
on the subjects which are introduced.

All works on the East differ from each other in the
orthography of names, and few are even consistent
with themselves. Some seem to take pride in a new
oithography of old terms ; and no two have the same
system as to new ones. This difficulty cannot be
surmounted, till some mode of Romanizing foreign
languages becomes universal. Words which have
acquired an established spelling, I have so given.
Others are written as directed by some one skilled in
that particular language. When no aid was at hand,
they are given just as they sounded to my ears, from
the lips of natives.

Every one is embarrassed, in reading works on India,
by meeting terms not found either in dictionaries or
encyclopedias. An explanation given in the margin,
when the term first occurs, cannot be always recollect-
ed, and the note is not easily found again. To avoid
this disadvantage, I have thrown together the necessary
explanations in a glossary. Some terms, not used by
me, but often occurring in Oriental works, are added,
to make it more useful.

The map has been constructed with great care. On
arriving in India, an outline was drawn on a very large
scale ; and, as local surveys or narratives of recent jour-

neys came to hand, coTrections were continually made.
My own tours, and conversations with missionaries, and
other gentlemen, furnished more. At the surveyor-
general's office in Calcutta, I was allowed an inspection
of various recent unpublished maps and charts of Farther
India. The omission of unimportant towns, and un-
certain rivers and mountains, makes some parts of it
look meagre ; but confusion is thus avoided without
diminishing the amount of general information. A
slight comparison with other maps of these regions, will
show that the corrections are so important and numer-
ous, as to entide it to be called an original map.

Deeming it indispensable that a book of travels, in a
region so unknown, should contain numerous pictorial
illustrations, I applied myself from the be^ning to
making sketches at every opportunity. A large number
of these are inserted, and constitute an entirely new
contribution to our stock of Oriental pictures. These
and the map considerably augment the cost of the
book, but it is hoped not so much as its value. For
the views of Maulmain, Tavoy, and Mergui, I am
indebted to a distinguished artist. That of Sagaing
was taken from the door of Mr. Kincaid's house, and
shows a section of his family boat, partly hid under the
bank. I preferred giving this to a sketch of Ava, as
being most likely to be the seat of that mission. The
small size of Burman houses, and the fashion of filling
their cities with stately fruit-trees, make them all appear
to be far less populous than they really are.

It would be a grateful task to acknowledge the kind-
nesses which were multiplied upon me in every place.

8 PBErACS.

But such matters belong to the sacred recollections of
private history. To publish them all, would require
constant repetitions, in which the reader could take no
interest ; and to name a part, would be doing injustice
to the rest. Suffice it to say, that I was every where
most affectionately and respectfully received, for my

work's sake. Never had a man kinder homes when
far from his own, not only among missionaries, but
with private, civil, and military gentlemen.

May He who blessed the enterprise, and bore me
safely through, bless the publication !

Boston, Fdruoary^ 1839.

CONTENTS.

TRAVELS IN BURMAH.

Departure — Emplojiaenla — LlneaB — Comet — Compimy — Preach
on Deck — Squall — Magellan Clouda — Send Letters — Trade.
Winds — Anotier lUneBS — Trjatsn d Acuuha — PortagQeee Men-
of-Wnr — Ship Tigris for Ceylon — Encounter between ii WUaie
tmd a Threiher — " Doubling Cape of Good Hope " — Day of Fist-
ing- Enormous Shark- Nicobir lal Buds — First Sight of Idolaters
— Kedgeree — Heavj Dews — AndiUDMi IslandB — Propttria and
Narcondam .p. 13

CHAPTER II.

Arriral at Amherst — First Sabbath at Maulmain — Coasting Vojage
— Moungmagoung — Curiosity of the People — Walk over the
Monnlain — Tavoy —Mata — Karens; their Piety, Liberality,
Temperance, Gratitude ; Letters from Young Conrerts ; Churches;
Books — Mergui; Population ; Chinese ; Mussulmans; Christians;
Siamese Shyans ; Important sa a Missionary Station — Tennaaserim
Islands — Se-longs — Storm — Disagreeable Inaecla — Variety of
Costumes — Karen Juggler p. 35

CHAPTER III.

Return to Maalmain — Missionary Conference — Preaching — Balu
Island — Karen Churches near Maulmain — Water Festiva] —
Chinese Ceremony — The Mohurrum — River Eicuision — Re-
markable Caves — Karen Christian Village — Church- Meeting and
Bapliam— Population of Maulmain — Commerce — State of Boodh-
ism — State of the Mission — English Influence p. 55

10 CONTEIITS.

CHAPTER IV.

Population of Rangoon ; Commerce ; Prices of Living — Shoodagon
Pagoda — Slaves of the Pagoda — Sunrise Worship — Rainy Mon-
soon — History of the Mission — Maubee — Labor of Native As-
sistants — Interesting Case — Voyage to Pegu — Evidences of
former Greatness — Shoomadoo Pagoda — Voyage up the Irrawad-
dy — Boats — Mode of Fishing — Prome — Leper Village — Gauda-
ma's Foot — Burman Energy — Earth-Oil Wells — Shyan Caravan
— Ruins of Paghan — Attempt to buy Beef — Buffalo Herdmen —
Curiosity of Natives — Toddy — Arrival at Ava p. 73

CHAPTER V.

Ava — Splendid Kyoungs — Pagodas — Priests — Palace — Popula-
tion — Arts — Prices — The Mekara Prince — Meawade Woon-
gyee — The Burman Pontiff — Surrawa Prince — Climate of Ava
— History of the Mission in Ava — Present State of Mission —
Safety of the Missionaries — Roman Catholics — Sagaing — Marble
Quarries — Mengoon Pagoda — Umerapoora p. 97

CHAPTER VI.

Chittagong — Cox's Bazar — r Akyab — Kyouk Phyoo — Ramree —
Arracan. p. 118

PART II.

DIGESTED NOTES ON THE BURMAN EMPIRE.

CHAPTER I.

The Term India — Hither and Farther India — Boundaries of Burmah
— History of the Empire — War with the British — Dismember-
ment of the Tennasserim Provinces — State of the Succes-
sion p. 133

CHAPTER II,

rMlnrea of Country— Climate — Mountaina — Minerals — Ri
— Soil — ProducftoiM — Agricullure — Animali — BJtds — Fishes
— RepUIet — Iiueots p. 143

CHAPTER m.

Population — Form and Fpatuiea — Buildinga — Food — Dm
Mmners and Customs — Character — Condition of Women — I
riige — Polygajny — Divorce — Diaeaoes — Medical Pfiotioe —
Hidwifeij — Funenila — AmoaemenU — Miuicsl Inatruments —
Huiufkctnrea p. ]73

CHAPTER IV.

CHAPTER V.

Revenne — Commerce — Carrency — Army — Navy — Slavpry —
Division of Time — Weighla and MeflBuies — Language — iJl-ni
lute — Degree of Civilisation p. 831

CHAPTER VI.

Eitenl of Boodliisni — Meaning of the Term — Antiquity of Iho
System — UiBtoty of Giiudama — The neil Boodh — The Bedagat
— Theory of tho Univcrae — The Four lalanda- This Island, or
the Earth — Origin and Fall of Man — Ccleatial Regions — Hells —
No eternal God — Univerae eternal — Moral Code — Merit — Dis-
CAUTEe of Gaudama — Religioua Edi6ces ,— Images- — Impreauona
of Gaudama'a Foot — Worship — Offerings — Public Days —
Snperslitiona — Nat- Worship — Prieata ; their Dress, ReBidenoes,
Morals, Office, Support, Numbers, Orders, FunPrala — PriestcBaes

— Secli — Toleration — Kemartu p. 839

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Page.
Map of South-Eastem Asia.
View of Tavoy, •\
View of Mergui, C on sted.
View of Maulmain, j

Mrs. Judson's Grave... 36

Boardman*s Grave 54

Maulmain Frinting-Office 69

Mr. Judson's Residence 72

Ascending the Irrawaddj 85

Burman Ox Cart 96

Ground Plot of Ava 97

Gentleman's Carriage 100

Burman King's Boat 113

Warder, or Balu 132

New Pagoda at Ava 142

Junction of the Kyendween...l49

Jack-Tree and Fruit 151

Mango 152

Plantain 153

Cashew-Nut 156

Irrigating a Rice Field 169

Bufialo 173

PlSfS.

Woman pounding Rice. 177 ^

Stand for Eating 188

Burman Shoe •...•.•• .183

Burman Ladj • 183

Spittoon 186 ••

Burman Gentleman and Fol-
lowers • 187

Drums and Drummer 204

Beating the Gong 204

Drums 204

Fiddle 205

Burman Lamp • 206

Assaying Silver 207

Cleaning Cotton 208

Gaudama 242

Zayat 252

Statue of a Lion 253

Streamer 254

Gaudama's Foot 255

Priest walking out 260

Priest preaching 262 |

Burning Ponghee .267 %

Tntiiffitrfhtr

_i _

, c

ART I.

I TRAVELS IN BURMAH, CHITTAQONG,
^^ AND ARRACAN.

* CHAPTER L

•lepinurc — Employmenls — Elpesi — Comet —Company— Preach on Deot

I -SiTiall — Magellan Clouils — Send Leliere — Tridc-Windi — AnQlher
iAKK — Tmlan d'Aciinha — Ponuguese Meo-of-WBi — Ship Tigris for
Ctjlon— Encounier belween a Whale and a Thtashor— " Doubling Capo
•ffiood Hop*" — Day of Fasling — Enormous Shait — Nicobar lalaixb
— Rrel Sigtt of Idolalers— Kedgeree — Heary Dews — Aaduman ItlajMb
— Preperis and Kareonrtam.
How cordial and comprehensive are the aympaihiee of true
I leBf^Da ! WIjo that saw the Louvre, '^vith ber eleven orduned
■■fgi>ErB, about to spread her canvass, could ihiJ to concj'asttbe
^^M|9 with, ordinary shipping operations ? Over all the whnrf
^^EipB dense mass of grave and silent apeclotora, Tvhile the decks
f^P^riggisg of ttie oiljacent ships are filled, witii yxmngta, but not
In intent observers. No Bound iutemipts the aseendiug prefer.
Tbt liill harmoDy of a thousand voices wafts to Heaven the
louching hjnin. Countless liands, thrust towanl the narrow
piBewaj, seek the last token of recognition. Even tlie aged,
laaccustomed to tears, weep, not from bittemeas, but in exu-
Wance of love.

But here ore none of tlic customary inducements to convene a
oowd. A ship sailing with passengers is no novelty. One of
dw Dumber was, indeed, the pastor of a large and most afiec-
liaiiate congregation ; but with the others, in general, the multi-
Itlde had no acquaintance. Personal attachments, iherelbro, had
not assembled the people. There was, in fact, nothing in the
flceoe, which could call forth a general interest, but its religious
character. Tbe regular packet, crowded with passengers, leaves

VOL. L 3

14 TOTJkOE OUT.

our shores, wliile only here and there a group of personal friends
look on with interest The merchantman unfurls his sails, but
his destination and ohjects are not regarded, fiut the mission-
ary! he awakens the sympathy of every believer. Stranger
though he be, all press to grasp his hand, and, when gone, all
intercede for him with God. Even denominational preferences
are forgotten, and every sect mingles in the throng, exulting
in a common joy.

fiut aU this is a mere fraction of the fruits of Christian
charity. The same expansive benevolence embraces the unseen,
unknown heathen. Intense interest for those sends forth these
self-denying ones, and draws from Christians at home the re-
quisite funds. The toorld is the field over which the eye of the
Christian wanders, and for all of which he will labor and pray,
while he has being. O blessed gospel, which thus makes man
the friend of man, and excites in the heart all that is pure, joy-
ous, and benevolent !

Never did a ship leave Boston harbor more nobly. A fine
wind, and favoring tide, bore us on so rapidly as scarcely to leave
us time to gaze one lingering farewell to the faint outlines of the
great and beautiful city. In two hours the pilot left us, bearing
brief notes of afiectionate remembrance to friends behind. Soon
we found ourselves in the midst of scores of beautiful schooners,
engaged in mackerel fishing. So thickly did they lie along the
horizon, as to resemble streets of stately white houses. Even
these, at length, sunk into the dim distance, and we dashed on
till night closed in, and the breeze hushed itself to rest

Wednesday, Sept 23, 1835. Light winds and a smooth sea
gave us a night of quiet repose ; but as the sun rose cloudless out
of the sea, the wind fi:«shened on our quarter, and amid an array
of studding-sails we made fine progress. Most of the passengers,
alasl feel no relish for the noble sight of ocean, and the rapid
plunging of our gallant ship. Sea-sickness, that most dispiriting
of all maladies, oppresses them. Mr. Sutton and myself how-
ever, being inured to the unnatural motion, are so &r exempt as
to be able to act the part of nurses. Between attending the sick,
and making fast the baggage, I found ample employment for
the day.

My heart fills with tender and grateful emotions, as I arrange
the various gifls of friendship and regard which almost fill my
state-room. Nothing that experience could dictate, or imagination
suggest, as requisite for my comfort, seems wanting. My sweet
but oppressive emotions find relief only in pouring out before

God fervent thanks, and Impluritig bim to remember hispromin
lint a cup of cold -water given to & disciple, because he is ;
disciple, Bball uot joae iXa reworii.

24 The wind baa contmued favorable, and we are already tut*
rauced on our way nearly HOQ miles. 1'lic skylight in my i
rooiD i>rm-ea sufficient. Tbe rouad-bouae, (so called,) on decit, it J
ID iuvaluable camTan, end wiil be eepecially bo in rainy westi^v 1
la the evening, suclj us wt-re ivell enougb coinmeuced femi^ J
wwsliip in tliu cabin.

Sunday, 37. Still fine and ftvoring breezes, TIjo aniilng beitig' I
eneuded, and seals arranged, br. Sutton preached this mornings '
la appropriate and interesting discourse. Most oi'thepas^ngen I
ible to attend. As many were singers, I led tlie psalmody willl' {
my Bute, and we raised bosonnai^ not unacce[ita.ble, we tnist, eveii
10 tlie ear of God. Four oftbe crewatteudeil. Our entire com-
pany theo resolved thetnEelves into a Bible-class, to meet e'
Lord'e-day alternooa el lialf past three, and requested me to take
chaise of it We selected the >3t(» a/lhe JiposUf3,BsnioSl appro-
priate to missionary work. Till the arrival of Ibe appointed hom^ I
on every side were seen the brethren and sisters, busy with Dod^
dridge, Henry, Scott, Barues, Adam Clarke, &.D. &.c. fiiicb rc«t-'
lationwill embrara a chajiter, and occupy from one to two liounk J
Saturday, Oct. 10, Amid the numerous discomforts of a lonj, I
sea voyage, one is tlirown upon his own resoitrces, both ftir im-
ivovement and pleasure. Butthe mind accustomed toviewwith
intelligent and devout contemplation the works of God, can eel-
dom be without materials for lofty and punning thought And
surely the wide ocean and wider sky present a rich field for the
eipatiation of our noblest thoughts. I^ing the deck, or leaning
igaiust the bulwarks, toward setting sim, it would seem as tliough
the most gross and tlioughtless mind must rise, and exfiand, and
teel delight Far and near rolls " old Ocean." Before Jehovah
spread out tlie fairer scenery of tbe dry land, these restless bil-
lows swelled and sparkled beneath the new-made firmament
Thousands of years their wide expanse remained a trackless

" UnconquErabl^ uniepoBed, untired,
And rolled the wild, piofound, eternDl bisa.
In nature's anthem."

The storm then found no daring mariner to brave its fury, and
the gentle breeze no repose on the fiur canvass of the lordly ship.
Age after age, the fowls of heaven and the tenants of the deep

16 TOTica oirr.

held undisputed empire. But now, eyery ocean is added to tliA
dominion of man. He captures its rulers, he makes its surges
his highway, and so dexterously adjusts his spreading canvass^
as to proceed, in the very face of its winds, to his desired hayeiL
But, O ! how many have found in these same Inllows a grave!
How many a gallant ship has *^ sunk like lead in the mighty wa-
ters," where beauty and vigor, wealth and venerableness, learning
and piety, find undistinguished graves ! To these lone deserts
of pure waters man pursues his brother with murderous intent —
the silence is broken by thundering cannon — the billows bear
away the stain of gore, and all that storm ever swallowed up
have been outnumbered by the victims of a batde. O war!
when will thy horrid banner be forever furled !

Reflection, following the chasing waves, passes on to the shores
they lave, and there looks over nations, and beholds men in their
manners, customs, follies, and crimes, their loves and hates, their
joys and sorrows, their enthusiastic pursuit of wealth, and amaz-
ing disregard of Heaven. How interminable and salutary are the
thoughts thou inspirest. Ocean ! whether we regard thy age, thy
beauties, thy wrrath, thy silence, thy treasures, thy services to
man, thy praise to God, or the scenes which have been acted
on thy surface I

But while we thus muse and speculate, the glories of sunset
fade into sober gray, the billows take a deeper tinge, stars multi-
ply, and soon we stand beneath a firmament glowing with ten
thousand fires. Here are vaster, sublimer fields for thought

" Hail, Source of Being ! Universal Soul
Of heaven and earth ! Essential Presence, hail !
To Thee I bend the knee ; to Thee my thoughts
Continual climb ; who, with a master hand,
Hast the great whole into perfection touched."

How ennobling and purifying is the study of astronomy! How
delicious the Christian's hope of soon roaming among these works
of infinite wisdom and power, ever learning, adoring, rejoicing,
improving ; ever becoming more full of God, and of glory, and
of joy!

I ought to mention that on the 28th Sept wfe had a meeting to
agree upon some general measures for the profitable employment
of our time. It was unanimously agreed that, in addition to our
daily femily worship, prayer-meetings should be held every Sun-
day and Wednesday evenings ; that the brethren officiate alpha-
betically at public worship on deck, and in asking a blessing

during one day at table ; tliat the moDthly concert of pmyer ba
held at the same hour as the other eTening meetings; that I
•licruld dehrer on Thuisday eveDuigs a courae of lectures c
aiieiona, miEsiouary nieosuree, and inissiouory tields ; and thai
bt. Sutton aboiUd deliver uccssional lectures ou modem my*-
(liology and tiie state of the hcatheu.

IS. Head winds, the jiasi tliroe ur lour days, have kepi us pitcba J
ing sharply, and |mt oU our invalids again on the ^ick list- Tom |
day, we liave a liiir wind, which has ali-ettdy Eiuoothcd ilio
and our friends are better. We are witliiu tt^-elve or tliirteeA J
degrcea ot'tbo Cape Verde, hut expect to go much ueai-er, thougfc
Wt probably in sighL

gunday, Oct IS. Crossed the tropic of Cauecr. Not being
Me to command voice enough to preach on deck, 1 altenipted it
tbis evening, by genera.! request, iu tlie cabin. Otlier brethren
performed oU the devolionai exercises, but my throat Buffered
ronsiderably. — It is remarkable that we liave not yet met the
Mirtli-east trade-wind, which prevails gepeiTdly us high as W.
Bui He who sent us will give ua such speed as pleases Uini.

23. Have been confined in my bed witli on attack ou lbs
bowela, which on Monday laida severe hold upon lue. Aia now
ibout, but able to eat nothing hut a bttle ootnietLl gruel. The lec^
. der care and sympathy of my hretlireu, ajui still more of the uBr n^^_
KrB,ia very sweet. What a blessed houio would this world he, if ^^
Christian love pervaded every besom I It is exceedingly grati-
ng that harmony and kind feeling prevail among all our pas-
eengerB, tliough so different in temper, age, and previous pur-
euits ; and comprising, as we do, four distinct denomiuationB.

Sailing, for the last two days, along tbe coast of Africa, it is
impossible to avoid frequent thoughts of that devoted land. How
deep the darkness which covers ii! How few ilie points where
Christianity kindles her fire ! How wretched, even in temporal
things, ilB thronging millions, and how utterly secluded from the
improvements of the age ! Yet ihe word of the Lord once re-
sounded along these shores, and triumphed over the vast interior.
Aflican philosophers, ministers, and generals, came not behind
the greatest of their lime. Why, and how, the dreadful change 7
" Verily, iliere is a God, that ruleth in the earth 1 "

Yesterday we caught the first liunt zephyrs of the north-eaat
trade-wind, and to-day it has increased to its regular velocity ; that
is, we go at six or seven miles an hour. We are all glad, and I
truEi ibanktid.

Saturday, 24. Have been deeply interested to-night in obserV'

15 roTAtm omii

ing the comet, which cloudy nights have hitherto kept invifliUftk
Here we are, cahnly gazing at the identical thing, which, by its
amazing brilliance, spread such universal panic in 1456^ AH
Europe seemed to believe that the day of judgment was at handL
The pope (Calixtus UL) partook of the alann. Ordering all
church bells to be rung every day at noon, (a practice which haft
since widely prevailed,) he required all good Christians to say
the ''Ave Maria" thrice a day, with this addition, *^Save uajrom
<%e Ttwk, the DeoU^ and the ComeL" He went further, and had
the comet, in regular form, excommunicated every day ! But the
patient luminary filled the coffers of its ghostly anathematizerab
Incalculable treasures were poured into the hands of priests^
firom the guilty and the afiOighted ; and the vilified comet *^ hMr
ing on the even tenor of his way," passed out of sight k has
appeared every seventy-five years since that time, (though with
diminished brightness ;) and Science, the handmaid of ReligicH])
has now made it an object of calm calculation and ennobled
piety.

We have for some days had a continual temperature of about
80°. With an awning over the deck, and our thinnest clothes,
we keep comfortable on deck, though hardly so below.

27. Am nearly well, though not yet able to partake of com-
mon food. Thanks to my gracious Lord, past sufferings have
not been so utterly unimproved, as to permit me now to be either
terrified or querulous under the endurance of evil, so called. 1
feel that repeated afilictions come not as lightnings on the scathed
tree, blasting it yet more, but as the strokes of the sculptor on
the marble block, forming it to the image of life and lovelinesa
Let but the divine presence be felt, and no lot is hard. Let me
but see His hand, and no event is unwelcome.

Friday, 30. The monotony of a calm (for the trade-wind
has already failed us) has been agreeably relieved yesterday
and to-day by the neighborhood of two ships, much larger than
our own — one English, the other American. The English
ship (the John Barry, of London) has 260 convicts for Sydney,
in New South Wales. They swarmed on the whole deck, and
in the rigging, while men under arms stood sentry over them.
There were probably some troops also on board, as there were
several officers on the quarter-deck, and a fine band of musia
This was politely mustered yesterday, when we were as near as
we could safely sail, and played for an hour or two very delight-
fully. As the music swelled and died away in heaving and ex-
quisite cadences, now gay, now plaintive, and now rising into

ilony .

manjal pomp, — it not only re&eehed, snd Boothed, and extai]*
niett.buta'nijEeiied trains of Dot uuprofitablethouglit. Tliey bsaa
kmged to our fiiiher-landj they canie trooi tlie Doblesi uatuqi'
earth ever saw; they were but lately arrayed againBt us iti\
borrid war; tbey bore to a distant home a motley crew or refloeU
■nd vulgar, educated and ignorant, now reduced by sin M*
oammon convicts and exiles. And was God ackuowledgedj
among them ? Did any of them go to him in their dislreasealt'
Would they in eidle finish on inglorious life, and meet the secooftj
death ? Or, nill some bithful preacher find them there, unditf*.
whose admonitions they may recover earthly honor, and iiii4j
eternal life ? O ttiot their native land may long remain the pAi
lar of freedom, the som'ce of noble misaionaiy endeavor; that
her stupendous navy may I'ot in peace ; that ttiis ehip may ham ]
Eoulg born to God among her crowd, and that the convict colonf
may soon be a part of Christ's precious church !

The American ship was the Canada, of New York, Cupt. iriclo^
B noble ship, whose Bailing greatly surpasses ours. We went
board, and spent half an hour very pleasantly.

Monday, Nov. 2. A perfect calm yesterday enabled mn n -
preach oil deck. Every person on board was present, except thRi '
Dian at the wheel, and one sick in the forecastle. Our nauoool i
flag, wrapped round the capstan, made a romantic pulpit, TrhBn I
inolhcr, extended across the ship, just behind my bock, from tba
awning to the deck, made ua a beautiful luliemacle, and gave n
cbamung aspect of compacmesB and sociability to our little con-
vocation. O that God would bless tbe endeavor to the souls of
our unconverted fbllow-voyagers ! We often converse with the
men individually; but though theyreceive remarks with kind-
Dess, and seem to possess many good qualities, I perceive no
particular anxiety on the subject of religion resting on the
mind of any of them. Tbe brethren and sisters seem truly
prayerful for their conversion. This was peculiarly manifest this
evening at our monthly concert of prayer, and is shown at all our
social meetings. I visit the sick sailor frequently, and ciury him
little delicacies ; but his extreme sufierings are as yet fruitlesB of
i^iritual good.

Thursday, 3. Reached the Bouth-east trade-wind, and are
going gayly, with a steady breeze, at tlie rale of seven miles an
hour. Those who have not been to sea can scarcely realize the
exhilaration of spirit produced by a strong favoring wind, after
wearisome delayE. We had scarcely made any advance for ten
ixjv, and were ahnost weary of delay. Whou we had wind, it

so TOTAQS OJJT»

was in severe squalls, accompanied with heavy showers. Tbs
majesty of a. few sharp squalls, however, repays one far the duh
ger they may involve, and tempts the timid passenger to hncis
the viind and a wetting, for the pleasure of the sight. Evoty
sluggish sailor is converted instandy into a hera Every order a
obeyed on the run. The lofty display of canvass, vrfaich hid
been flapping against the masts, is rapidly reduced, as the threit*
ening cloud draws on. Regardless of the huge drops which now
begin to descend, the captain stands at the weather bulwuk^
peering, through half-Kslosed lids, into the gathering gloom. Fit-
ful gusts herald the approaching gale. More canvass is taken
in ; the waves are lashed to foam ; the wind howls through die
rigging ; the bulk-heads creak and strain ; the ship careens to die
water's edge; and the huge spray springs over the weather
bow: then comes the rain in torrents; the mainsail is fulled^
the spanker brailed up, and the man at the wheel is charged
to <<mind his weather helm." Soon the whole force of the
blast is upon us. ^ Hard up ! " roars the captain. *< Hardupynr! "
responds the watchful helmsman. The noble thing turns her
back to the tremendous uproar, and away we scud, conscious
of safety, and thrilling with emotions of sublimity.

The rush is over ! The dripping seamen expand again the
venturous canvass — the decks are swabbed — the tropical sun
comes out gloriously — we pair ourselves to promenade^ — and
evening smiles from golden clouds, that speak of day-gladdened
realms beyond. And now the rolling billows, disrobed of their
foaming glitter, quiet themselves for the repose of night, while
the blessed moon beams mildly from mid-heaven.

<< Thou art, O God ! the life and light
Of all this wondrous world we see ;
Its glow by day, its smile by night,

Are but reflections caught from thee !
Where'er we turn, thy glories shine,
And all things bright and fair are thine.*'

Friday, Nov. 6. Just before sunset, crossed the equator, in
longitude 28° W. ; 45 days from Boston ; having sailed, by log, 4640
miles. Among the improvements of recent years is the abroga-
tion, in most ships, of the absurd and inhuman practices which
used to prevail at this point of a voyage, in regard to such as
crossed the line for the first time. Strange that a custom so bar-
barous should ever have existed — more strange that it still is
tolerated by some captains — and almost incredible that Christian

AQCATIC ROVKLTIia.

« Bod T«Dentble fBihers in the church should t
uempL Bui two or three years wncB, two young u
from England to India were subjected to he full ri^^rs ; and
D Tyerman and Bennett did not wholly escape ! Aias, how
oy proofs there are of our slowness to leerD to love our neigh-
I kv >3 ourselves ! Our cajitaln permitted nothing of tlie eort,aDd
ted, that the sight of these inflictions early determiDed him.
Oat, if ever he become master of a vessel, he would utterly
Sxbtd them.

Numerous birds, but of what species I cannot leara, have beea
KOimd us for several days. Sometimes ne are surrounded b]r
n, in flocks of eeveml kinds, generally very large. The fine,
k trade-wind we now enjoy, im|)ar[s a deligbttiti cooliiees to
Ibe air on deck, though it is difficult to be comfortable ttelow.
Thermometer 79= to 83°.

EL For80inedays,we have been indulged with aquatic novelties^
irtiich I'crve (o vary our mouotooy, aud create topics for our many
JQumalizers. Blackfish, bonetos, ftying-fish, dolphins, porpoise^
fulla, &i,c^ summon our new voyagers to the side, and excite no
little interest. These are so abundantly described in elemeatary
books, that no description of them need l>a given here. Ws
found the dolphin very good eating, white, dr;, and resembling
Ibe pike, or pickerel, in taste. The deaeriptiiHiB of ibe flyiitg-fieh
wiiirh 1 have rend are not correct in stating that they have n»
power really to fly, but onty spring from tbe water, and, guiding }
themselves w^th their huge pectoral fins, keep up a little while^ ,
in the direction of tbe wind. We often see them actually flyio^ f
nod skimming up and down, accommodating themselves to th» ]
Waves, and going 60 or 70 yards at a time, but generally in a di' \
rection from the ship, which they seem to think is some enemy.
Poor things!. they lead a precarious Ufb; for many, both of tbe
natery and feathered tribes, make them a constant prey.

Last evening, caught a booby, {peUtama ndo,) and to-day I suc-
ceeded in getting a Mother Carets chicken, or storm petrel, (pro-
edlaria pelagica,) by trailing a thread in which its wings became
Hitangled. Tbe booby sat doggedly on tbe mizzen royal yard,
■ikd, as the mate approached him, kept edging o^ till he got to
tbe very end of the spar, but would not fly, and sufiered himself
to be caught. As they will bite severely when attacked, he waa
suddenly seized by the neck, and brought below. He has re-
mained on deck all day, without attempting to fly, and looking as
(tupid as possible. The storm petrel is about the size of a small
roUn ; dark brown, wHb a tm>ad circle of white at the root of

93 T0TA6X OUT.

the tail; black, hooked bill; long, slender legs; and ampk,
webbed feet Fond of the bits of grease, &c. thrown over in the
slops, they follow us often whole days, and in large numbers.
Notwithstanding the scorn with which the proposal was received,
I had the petrel broiled, together with slices from the breast of
the booby. They were both pronounced excellent, by all who
could be prevailed upon to taste them. As the plumage of bodi
birds was in fine order, I preserved and stuffed their skins.

Nov. 11. Saw, this evening, the Magellan clouds. In-
stead of being always at the water's edge, as CoL Synomes*
afSrmed, they stand high in the heavens, and will be almost yer-
tical as we pass round the Cape. We can perceive but two, both
bright; but it is said there is a third one, dark. Those we see
are oval, about the size of a cart-wheel to the eye, and exactly
resembling the milky way. It is supposed by astronomers that
they consist of just such a collection of stars as form that beauti-
ful pathway across the heavens. The present residence of the
younger Uerschel, at the Cape of Good Hope, with his stu-
pendous instruments, will doubtless furnish the learned world
with some new and important facts in regard to these &mouB
« clouds."

The clearness of the atmosphere in this region is very striking.
So pure is the air, that the stars shine with a glory not inferior to
that of our most resplendent northern nights. In one- respect,
they transcend even those, viz. the visibility of stars dovtrn almost
to ihe very horizon. Shooting stars are numerous, and of great
apparent size. Delicious weather, smooth water, and fine winds,
make up the monotonous but attractive scenery of our evenings.

" Such beauty, varying in the light

Of gorgeous nature, cannot be portrayed
By words, nor by the pencil's silent skill j
But is the property of those alone
Who have beheld it, noted it with care,
And in their minds recorded it with love."

The comet has become more glorious, and its train is visible
to the naked eye, stretching upward, almost a fourth part to the
zenith. Seen through the ship's glass, it is half the size of the
moon, and of a dazzling brightness, resembling Jupiter. It ap-
pears low in the west, and sets about half past nine.

Thursday, 12. Had the great pleasure, to-day, of sending letters
directly to Boston, by the ship Susan, Capt Jennings, from Rio

* Author of the theory that the interior of the earth is hollow and inhabited.

JuHiro. Judging by appearaocea that she v/aa an Ainericaa
veeae], snd bouod for the United Stales, we checked our way to
meet faer, and, finding our hopes coofiruied, asked the captain to
heave to, and take letters, which ho reodity did. I liad seveit
Dearly finished, and, among us aJI, made up more than six^,
which wilJ gladden our triends, by assuriug them that we are, ao
&r, all well. Such opportunities are very rare at sea, and we
feel grateful that our fHeuds will thiia be able to hear &om ua
aeten or eight luontiis before they could from Calcutta.

We are now in south latitude 15° 34', and west longitude 3SP
Sff, going seven miles (or knots) an hour, day and night, fanned
and forwarded by Ihe invaluable trade-wind. There ure, on the
globe, two trade-winds ; one north of the equator, forever blow-
ing from the north-east, and the other south of the equator, and
blowing always from tlie Bouth-easL They extend about 28 de-
grees each side of the equator, but advance and recede several
degrees, according as the sunisnortli or south of Ihe line. They
blow with sufficient force to propel a vessel generally about seven
miles an hour, and with such uniformity that, lor many days, ■
ship scarcely alters a rope; and are attended with delightful
weather. They extend quite round the globe, except where the
action of the sun on masses of land, or high islands, obstructs it
(br a limited space. They are generally otlributed to tlie rure-
faclion of the air, under the path of iho bijii, caiiBiiii( an influx
from toward the poles. The wind thus created is drawn west-
ward by the combined action of the eim in its path, and the rapid
mlatory motion of the earth. The notth-east trade-wind stops
abort of reaching the equator, by several degrees, and is less reg-
ular and strong, which is attributed to the great contraction of
the Atlantic between Africa and Brazil, and to the greater quail'
ti^ of land in the northern henusphere, producing an amount
of rarefaction trbich allows less cold air for the supply of the
tropics. At the West Indies, the large scope of ocean to the
eastward gives uniformity to tiie trade-wind ; and hence the tenn
"Windward Islands." Whatever may be the second causes of
these great and perpetual phenomena, we certainly owe the
great Fb'st Cause unspeakahle thaiJts ; for they impart most im-
portant benefits.

November 19, Another severe shaking of my clay house bai
been reminding me again of the Master's waiaiDg, " Behold, I
wmt at a Vtief." An attack of colic, on Monday, reduced me in a
few hours to extremi^. It was more violent than most previous
attacks, but yielded sooner. Precious days, however, have these

M TOTAffil OVT.

hBtfOu What firerii and endearing beneto do aickneflwea impart!
No height of worldly homMr, or richness ci bodily enjoyment^
would induce me to part with the salutaiy lessons derived fiom
i»Ten one of these attacks.

We have now, probaUy, bid fiurewell, for tiie piiesent, to warm
weather, being in latitude 90°. Thick clodies are in requlritioii,
and the thermometer ranges from 00° to 65P, It wiU prvbabty
temain cold witii us for tiVe or six weeks, perhaps more. Wd
had the pleasure to-day, for the first time, of seeing Cape pigeou^
and diat king of aquatic birds, the albatross, (diomedea txuktM,)
These, with gannets, molly mawfcs, boobies, j^tadoes, and other
birds for which those <m board have no name, are almost con*
stantly round the ship.

Saturday, 21. Well enough to be on deck and enjoy the calm
and delicious vernal sun. The ^>eeent season in this latitude
about corresponds vnth our May at home. At evening, after
vratching a gcn*geous sunset, I was sitting in the round-house to
avoid the dew, when cries of admiration called me out ; and
there was Venus, queen of all stars, gradually descending into
ocean, unobscured by mist or cloud ! Nothing could be more
beautifuL It gave a strong proof of the exceeding purity of
these skies.

Thursday, 26, Feasted our eyes vnth the sight of *^landj*
which for sixty-five days we have not d<me. But imagination
had to spread the banquet; for few of us would have suspected
that we saw land, had we not been tc^d so. The dim, cloud-look-
ing crags of Tristan d'Acunha showed their questionable out-
line amid fogs and rolling mists, for about an hour, and then left
us to spend another sixty-five days, or more, before we again see
aught but sky and water. This lonely spot is occupied by but a
single family, of 15 or 20 persons.

**• Cape weather" is now upon us — fo^y, damp, and cold, but
with a noble westerly gale, driving us on magnificently. Our
promenades on deck are suspended ; but the cool weather ena*
bles us to sit in our state-rooms, and the privilege of unrestricted
retirement makes amends for the absence of many others.

Saturday, 28. Succeeded, this mcHiiing, in harpooning a por-
poise, (ddphinus phocanoj) and getting it on board. It measured
seven feet in length, and more than tibree feet in girth ; of a pure
white under the belly, and rich lead color on the back; with large
fins each side, near the head ; and the nose long and pointed,
not unlike that of a hog. This latter feature is no doubt the
reason why, in French, Italian, and German, the creature is called

Tlia spout-hole ia not on the cpowii of the head, a_ __
D tiio Encyc. Amer^ but quite forward of tlie liraui, oq the
I noul, and divided, hy a septum of solid bone, into two ovnl
(qwnures, each capable of admitting a finger ivitli eiise. The
harpoon entered its heart, ao that it nei^r moved after being
Iraughl on deck. Its blubber (that 19, the coat of fat Ijhig under
ilie skin) \viis stripped off tbr iamp-oii, and the carcass hiing up
fur Ibod. The kidneys exnctiy resembled a pini of smaM grapes
euclosed in a tMn,tnuispurenl pellicle. The rapidity \tiih which
theee creatures swim is aslouisbing. Instead of tumbling and
rolling lazily, as in emootii weather, they seem to gather spirits
with A breeze, playing back and forward, across the bows, ihougfa
iho ship is going eight or ten miles ou hour. Tlicir move-
meuia indicate perfect ease and gayety; and not uufrequently
iliey leap wholly ont of water.

We had scarcely done with the poq)oiae, when "a sail " was
aiinounced. We soon came near enough to perceive that slie
hsil a whale alongside, from which tliey were hoistmg the laM
slieeta of blubber, and soon after c u( adrift Iho nan-asa. It floated
by us, at a little distance, covered with hugn and ravenous birds
pulling it lo pieces, while a multitude of smaller ones swam
around, picking up the scattered Iragmenls. We soon spoke th«
ship, and found her to be the Samufl Robrrhen, of New Bedfordi ^^
out ninety diiys. The ca|ifaiii polilelv nfllTcd to send a iKiiit, if —
any of us wished to gratiiy our curiosity ; and aoTcral of the gen-
tlemen gladly availed themselves of the opportunity. They found
her a " temperance ship," in fine order, and, after spending half an
liour, and leaving some tracts, newspapers, fcc^ returned with a
present of two fine albatrosses, measuring eleven feet across the
nings. Unaccustomed to injury fkim man, they seemed no wise
affrighted, and sat quietly on deck. Their long wings and short
legs render it impossible for them lo rise in flight fhimafi^
sohd surface. When provoked, they snapped violently at the peiv
Bon, uttering a shrill, loud sound, not unlike the braying of a mule.
They cannot stand up on their feet a minute, but continue squat-
ting, as on the water. In walking, their awkwardness is really
ludicrous, while their enormous palmated foot comes down each
time with a heavy slap. Though the largest of all aquatic birds,
they fly with great ease, seldom moving the wing ; now skimming
gracefully along the surface of the water, adroitly conforming to
its imdulations, and now soaring alofl like an eagle. They are
continually seen in this region, hiuidreds of miles from land, and
at night repose at pleasure on the sur&ce of the deep. They

06 YOTAGE OUT.

prey upon flying fish, spawn, moUuscse, dead carcasses, &c.y and
are generally in good condition.

Sunday, 29. For an entire week, we have gone six or seYon
miles an hour, day and night, on our exact course, enjoying mild
weather, but with excessive dewsL This morning, at sunrise, the
wind lulled to a three-knot breeze, and has continued so all day,
giving us a fine opportunity for worship. It is remarkable that,
as yet, every Sabbath but one has been calm, and pleasant enough
for service on deck.

An uncommon scene has been before us all day. From day-
light to dark we have been sailing though vast multitudes of the
<< Portuguese nkan-^if-vfar,^ (h^Mhvriaphysalis,) though we have
gone forty miles. They extended on every side as far as the eye
could reach, varying in size fi*om that of the palm of the hand to
that of a finger nail, and close enough to average, probably, one
to every two cubic foet We readily caught some in a basket
They are elliptical in shape, about as thick as conmion paste-
board, with a sail, of the same thickness, extending diagonally
fix>m one end to the other. This position of their sail makes
them tJways seem to be sailing " on a wind," and not directly
before it Beneath is a cavity, corresponding to the base of the
sail. The interior of this is filled with small, short tubes, like
mouths, and fi*om the edge of it hang niunerous long tentacles,
like roots. The sail is white, and the body, or horizontal part,
of a beautiful silvery lead color, inclining to a deep blue at the
circumference, and taking on an edge tint of rose, after it has
been kept some time in a glass. It has neither bones nor shelL
The sailors consider it poisonous to the touch ; but I handled
them (cautiously at first, of course) without any ill effect

Our Bible-class continues exceedingly interesting, and gener-
ally holds nearer two hours than one. It costs me, however, more
efifort than I anticipated. The questions asked by such a class
are not of ready solution. All take a deep interest in it, and pre-
pare themselves by study. We use no text-book.

Tuesday, Dec. 1. Last evening, a sail was descried directly
astern, which, by three o'clock this morning, proved to be the Ti-
griSf from London to Ceylon. They passed ahead ; but, the wind
dying away, they, after breakfast, put ofi* a boat, and the captain,
(Stephens,) CoL McPherson, of the Ceylon regiment, a surgeon,
and several young ofScers, came on board. Learning from them
that the Rev. Mr. Hardy and wife, Wesleyan missionaries to Cey-
lon, were on board, Mr. Sutton and myself, with two or three of
the brethren, went to him, and had a pleasant interview. On

renu-ning, we Touacl our caplniii Imil rigged my arm-cliair, with
nice lackle, to the yard-arm, and was prepu'ed lo give ibe ladies
m excuTBion. The two boats look tJiom nil, and diey remained
m hour witli the ladies iu the Tigris, during which n guotEcl re-
past was eerved lo them. Our first visilora remaiued wilh us,
and look lunck From Col. McPhei-soa, wlio had served m ths
Burman war, I learned a few purticulurs rusjieeting that peoiiU^
and also the Shyuns, for whom I feel d^oply interested.

During the absene* of ttie ladies, we observed ud encounter
between a huiiipbatked whule and n llirHsber. The wlialo
seemed greatly provoked, flouudoring, and bloiviiig wilii violence,
wiiile the thraBhra' adroitly evaded the stroke of iiis flukes, some-
liraee by leaping entirely out of the water. Presently alliir these
combatants disappeared, four or five other whulea were seen
rolling and playing witliin one hundred yards of the ship, their
ba<Jts rising five or six feet out of the water, while, ever and anon,
aa they descended, their broad tails rose high into view. Toward
evening, a breeze sprung up, the Tigris passed ori, and we parted
company with the regret of severed neighbors,

25. In latitude 37° Sff, longitiule 70° east Never hud ship
a finer run than ours since we leH: tlie equator. We got up to
latitude 35° on the 23d ult., being then in longitude 23° west;
We have thus run niuety-lhree degrees of longitude in thirty-
lliree days, and have passed the Cupe widiout the seuiblauce
of a Btortn. It being nearly midsimuner here, we have had
mild, though damp weather, the thermometer never sinking
below 50°.

I had no conception that " doubling the Cape of Good Hope **
meant passing near the coast of S. America to a higher latitude
than the Cape, and tlieu proceeding as near as possible in a
straight line sIk thousand miles eastward, before we tiun north-
ward Bg^n ; in the mean time not coming within one hundred
and My or two hundred miles of the Cape. But such is the
course rendered necessary by the trade-winds. Persons em-
barking for India at any time except from about ttie first of
October to the first of January, ought to be provided with
flannels for five or six weeks' use.

Having found the flesh of our porpoise exceedin^y delicate,
we have sought every o|>portunity to harpoon another, but with-
out success, till yesterday, when we welcomed one on deck. All
agree that they never ate more delicious meat than this is, after
it has been kept a day or two. It has no resemblance to fiiih, in
appearance or taste ; but, when cooked, is of a dark color, like

38 VOTAQE OUT.

venison, and eats like the tenderest bee£ The liver is very fine.
This porpoise was instantly recognized as of a different species
from the other, though of the kind usually caught in this region.
It had a sti'ong, thick, colter-shaped fin on the back. The light
color of the belly was diffused over the back towards the taiL
The other, which the sailors called Cape Horn porpoise, had no
fin on the back, and was of a uniform dark color the whole
length of the back. The captain assures us that the porpoises
which tumble about in our bays are quite equal to these for food.
It is a pity, in this case, that they are not brought to market Be-
ing easily taken, they would form at once a cheap and delicious
food, beside the advantage of the oil. Perhaps they are not kept
sufficiently long to become tender.

January 1, 1836. Our fine run continues. For fifly-four days
past, our progress has averaged one hundred and seventy-two
miles a day, which is seventy miles more than the average of the
first forty-five days. We now see no albatrosses, and few birds
of any kind — no whales — no ships. The reflection that, as we
walk the deck, we can turn no where and look towards home,
that friends and countrymen are beneath our feet, and that the
thickness of the globe divides us, makes this new year's day
memorable. Absence indeed it is, when one can get no further
fi'om his country !

Monday, 4. According to previous agreement, we observed
this as a day of fasting and prayer, as is done by so many asso-
ciations at home, having reference to om* own spiritual improve-
ment, and tlie advancement of true religion over all the earth.
Had a prayer-meeting from ten to half past eleven, A. M. At
one, P. M., I preached in the afler-cabin from Habakkuk iii. 2 —
" O Lord, revive thy work ; " and in the evening we observed the
usual concert of prayer. I trust the season was not wholly lost
to us. But, alas ! how strongly ai*e we reminded, at the close of
a day so designated, that " our righteousnesses are as filthy rags " !
My throat suffered less than it has hitherto from similar exer-
tions, for which I am truly thankful. We had a slight breakfast
and supper, but dispensed with dinner.

Wednesday, 6. Were visited yesterday by an enormous shark.
We were going but at the rate of two knots (miles) an hour, and
some men were at work over the side, whose feet occasionally
dipped in the water; and it is possible this may have drawn
him. He was about thirty feet long, and four or five broad, the
head flat, and nearly square across the snout After he had ac-
companied us some time, within eight or ten feet of the ship, the

G^Kain bad the harpoon ihrown into him. It entered near his
head, and passed deeply. For gome momeDl^, he aeeined luicon-
Bciods of the wound, and llien moved off abeam. In vain the
Bailors held on to the rope j it paeaed irresialibly tliroiigli their
bands, till it came to tiie cud where it ^as made fael, aud then,
though sn inch in diameter, broke like a thread. The sailors call
ihia the bone^hari. It is, I am pretty conJident, the basking shurk
[idiKhe maxima) of Ibe books, not untrequeiitly aoen ou the Amer-
iran const, and witich greatly resembles a huge ca.tfish. lis fleab
19 swd to be good eating, and a valuable ainoluil of oil may hn
m from it. Around him, aa usual, were pilot-Ash, (scomber due--
tw,) shaped like a perch or amall fat herring, and girdled beauti>
liilly with aitcnute rings of blue and white.

Holiday, XL Preached in my turn last et-eniiig, in the small
cabin, and eiifiered still leas than before. For eeveml Sabbaths,
we liave had a eeparate meeting for the seamen, at 4 o'clock, held
b the forecastle, or on the forward deck. Tlicy all attend, and give
t^ectful attention. I Bometimes converse with tliem individu-
eliy at sunset. They admit the importance of personal piety,
ind one or two are serious ; but tlteir great objection 10 giving
themselves up imvudlatetg to God is, thai Ihey cannot mahitaiii a
devotional life, situated as they are at sea. Alas I tbere ere al-
ways some to scofi* at a religious messniate ; and a sailor can bear
my thing better than ecora. Sad are the responsibility nnd d»nger
of the " ottt sirniTT \fkal\ df^lroi/elh miieh ^ood."

Friday, 15. Are at length north of Ae line again, and have
been for a day or two within 24 hours* sail of Sumatra. Sixteen
dmusaud miles of our voyage are now accomplished, m safety.
It has been oppresnvely hot for a formight, with daily showers
of rain. Some of the gentlemen have refreshed themselves by
iwinuning at the side of the vessel, when it was calm ; and the
Mptain has " rigged up " a nice bath, on deck, for the ladies, of
which they gladly avail themselves.

It is pleasing to have ocular evidence, in rock-weed, tropic
Urds, &^ of our approach to ^tirea Cherionenm and ^rgenita
Htgio, as the ancients called Burmah and Siam. They knew
little more of these regions, than that they existed ; and tew mod-
ems know much more. But the eyes of Chrisdana are now
turned on these landswilh strong benevolence, and the world will
know, not only their riches in gold and silver, in ivory and spices,
but the condition of their teeming population, and the character
and tendencies of their religion. The missionary shall feel at
borne on lands which white men knew not, and the knowledge

90 TOTAGE OUT.

of God supplant their gloomy superstitions. Soon we shall say,
"Thy light is come!"

January 18, 1836. Sailing to-day only 80 miles from the Nico-
bar Islands, and embayed among pagan countries, makes one feel
already amid the heathen. On these pleasant islands the gospel
was long and &ithfully dispensed, and deUberately and finally
rejected. Mingled emotions of pity for the deluded people, and
admiration of true missionary zecd, force themselves upon us,
when we remember the struggles and martyrdom of the &ithful
Moravians on these coasts. Eighty years ago, they began by
sending six men to convert and civilize the people. Others came,
as disease made breaches in their number. Thirty years long
did these holy men exert themselves amid both hardships and
discouragement ObUged, at night, in their preaching tours, to
sleep in trees, or bury themselves in the sand of the shore, to
avoid venomous insects ; often escaping, as by miracle, from alli-
gators, serpents, and wild beasts ; feeding on wretched shell-fish ;
lodged in poor huts ; and laboring vnth their own hands for a
subsistence, — they fainted not, nor ceased their toiL But no ear
gave heed to their heavenly message ; no heathen began to adore
the true God ; no idol was cast to the moles and the bats. Thir-
teen of the brethren, with ruined health, returned to Tranquebar,
and died, while eleven more found graves in their little cemetery.
The society, at length, ordered the only surviving missionary to
abandon the undertaking, and bear his rejected tidings to another
people. The lonely laborer, therefore,' after kneeling on the
green sod, where lay his loved companions and predecessors, and
offering one more fervent prayer for the pitied islanders, left the
country, [in 1787 ;] and "the voice of firee grace " has been heard
among them no more. — O ye Nicobarians! how have ye put
from you the teachings of Jesus, and " counted yourselves un-
worthy of eternal life " ! But the light now kindling on Burmah's
shores shall strike your silent mountains, and wake from your
dank valleys the exultations of the saved.

Tuesday, 26. Becalmed. Juggernaut's temple about 90 miles
distant — It is difiicult to abstain from gazing over the side, per-
petually, at the countless numbers and variety of aquatic crea-
tures, which, far and near, sport themselves on the smooth, warm
surface of the sea. Through the glass we discern numerous
turtles, puffing-pigs, &c, while nearer at hand are sharks, dog-
fish, smi-fish, toad-fish, cuttle-fish, porcupine-fish, snakes, sea-lice,
spiders, &c. ; and on every fragment of bamboo, or wood, or co-
coa-nut husk, which floats along, are various shell-fish, suckers,

nd worms. IKfierent parties take the bast trom time to time,
and row about, gelling iitie turtles, and picking up a (jreal variety
of creatures, which we should be glad to presei-ve, it' ne had
ibe coDvenieuces. I began my pcrtiblio by making drawings
of several of the fishes. We got six or eight crabs, about
as large as a half dollar; exceedingly beautilui and various ia
tbeir colurs. In a piece ol' porous wood, not exceeding four
inches square, we found perhaps fifty difierent itisocts, all, of
rourse, new end curious to ua. WTiat nn opulence of divine
power and ekiil is seen in tliis endless variety of animated be-
ings!— all perfect in their kind — all happy iu liieir way — all
fulfilling some object for which they wore made. "O tljat men
would praise tlie Lord for his goodness and his wonderfiil
works ! "

Monday, Feb. ], 183(5. At our concert of prayer this evening,
il was an afiiscling consideration that, on all this coast, from Cut-
tack to Calcutta, not a solitary evaugeUst holds fortli tlie word of
life : Commercial zeal tmuulains, at great expense, huoys, light-
Louses, telegraphs, and pilots, lest property should be lost on
these numerous shoals ; but Cluisliau zeal has not lit up the torch
of truili, to save the thousands of these people from the loss of
the soul ! Mow many other districts of equal tttngnilude are
similarly destitute ! O Zion! thy wealth cankers. Thy worldli'
neHB, in expeoditure, in lasMons, and in pursuits, oppresses tliy
graces, destroys thy j>ower, and leaves whole n.'itinna unblcat
with thy light ! O for some such devotedness as men of earth
exhibit in the ways of pleasure and of gain '. O that the millions
of money aunually wasted by professed Christians, in the Uiuted
States, were expended, not in iiijuty to the church, but in ele-
Tatiog from barbarism, misery, and death, the imtaught millions
of heathen !

3. Yesterday, about 8 o'clock, A. M,, we got a pilot, and are
now slowly ascending tlie Hoogly, hoping to find at Kedgeree,
about 60 miles up, some conveyance for our friends who are
going to Calcutta. The boat which brought ou board the pilot
was manned with njue lascara. My heart melted ot this first
sight of poor idolaters. Compassion and awe hove been seldom
more strongly excited. Looking round on the otiiers, who stood
looking over the ship's side, I found my eyes were not the only
fbimtains of tears. To-day we have seen many more natives, who
came off'lo us in their boats. Most of them have a very small
white cotton cloth wrapped round their loins; some have it long
enough to cover the shouldei's also when they choose to loose it

8i TOTAQK OUT.

for that purpose ; and a few wear turbans of the same Tnaterial:
none have any defence to the feet Their complexion is not
much different firom that of colored people in our Northern States,
who have not generally the jet color of Africans. Some of the
younger ones were not so dark, and had more of the red tint of the
American aborigines. Their stature is small, limbs well propor-
tioned, countenance intelligent, nose aquiline, teeth very white,
hair black, and inclined to curL A fishing-boat attached itself to
our stem as we lay at anchor, and remained during the ebb tide,
in company with another, which had come to offer aid in working
the ship. It was interesting to observe the nicety with which
tliey prepared their rice, and the enormous quantity they de-
voured. I should judge that each man ate two quarts ; but it was
boiled dry, and lay loose. It is to be considered, however, that
they eat little else. They ate with the fingers, or rather the
hand, pressing together as much as they could well grasp, and
cramming as much of it as they could into the mouth, letting the
remainder fall back into the dish again ; then picking up a small
morsel of fish. It was an ocular proof of the propriety of the East-
em custom of " washing before meat" — a custom which a mere
American reader might regard as founded in superstition. AAer
dinner, and smoking, they lay down to sleep. Untying the cloth
round their loins, they made it answer as a sheet, and the bare
deck formed their couch. Though we find it warm in the middle
of the day, (thermometer, in the shade, 79°,) they all complained
of the cold, and laid themselves in the full blaze of the sun.

The boats are similar to ours, but pointed at each end, heavier,
and decked over, so that the rowers sit flat on the floor, or on a
very low stool, having the oar fiistened at the top of two small
sticks, about two feet long, set up like the letter A. Most of the
oars were bamboo rods, with a flat piece, about 18 inches long,
at the end. They are short, and the rowers sit in pairs, side by
side, while the boat is steered by an oar at the stem.

5. Went ashore, and, after visiting the telegraph officer at this
station, strolled through the bazar. — We found rice, grain, sugar,
milk, eggs, fowls, cocoa-nut and mustard-seed oil, mats, oranges,
guavas, bananas, plantains, shattucks, (called here pomdosj) pine-
apples, yams, sweet potatoes, onions, cabbages, carrots, Irish
potatoes, lettuce, &c &e., but no butcher's meat Generally, the
prices were much cheaper than with us ; but such of the articles
as do not properly belong to a tropical climate were of very poor
quality. Mustard is cultivated in large fields, simply for the
oil, which is prized not only for burning, but for cookery, and

■ l^edaUy for auointiug oU, in which lost mode ilie consumption ^M

B 6. Haring ported willi Mr. SurloD and Itis company, W0 ^|

■ weiffhed anctmr about 3 o'clock, and dropped down die river, to ^

weighed a&ctiar about 2 o'clock, and dropped down die
resume our voyage to Burniali. The navigation liei-e is ho intii-
coKi as seldom to be aitcmpted at niglit, especially during thia
njonlli, when fogs occur every night. From midnight till this
luoming at eight o'clock, the fbg and dew sent donn tVom the rig-
ging a continual dropping, like a amart shower. A good rain of
on hour's duration would not have wet the ground more deeply.
What a merciful provision in a counuy where no rain occurs for
so long a {leriod! A linu wind and ardent sun clear the atmos-
phere atraut eight o'clock.

Feb. 12. Just now wo Lave to the south of us the Andaman
Islands. The chiefof these is one hundred aud forty miles long,
and twenty-five wide, divided, however, in fact, into three island^
by cliaoneja, which extend across the whole breadtli. Tliis or-
diipelago was known to Plolemy, who calls it "/nW* boiut
foriuntt." He declares the iuhabilants to be anihmpophagi, which
horrid fact b confirmed by late traTellers, though it acems they
eat human flesh only in reveuge towards eneinies, or when im-
pelled by famine, to which tbey are often exposed. They ars
genuine negroes, uid uncommooly repulsive in ^>puej-ance, hav-
lug iinibs dis proportionally slender, protuberant bellies, higll,
ruuud shoulders, verj' large heads, woolly hail-, tliick lips, and
sooty akin. The average height of the men is about five feeL
No two races of men are more distinct thim this people aitd the
nations around them. How they came here is a problem not
solved. The general conjecture is, that a Portuguese slaver from
Mozambique was some time wrecked here, and thus peopled the
island. But we have the account of two Mahometan travellers,
who journeyed eastward in the ninth century, six hundred years
before Portuguese ships found their way to the Indian Ocean.
Then- description of these islanders is qiute correct They say,
"The complexioD of the people is black, their hair frizzled, their
coontenance fiightful, and their feet very large. They go quite
naked, and eat human flesh." Perhaps no people on earth stand
lower in the scale of humanity. Gfoing utterly naked, and tfaere-
fore exposed to tlie annoyance of various insects, they are in
ihe liabit of daubing themselves Horn head to foot with mud,
which, hardening, forms a complete defence, but gives them a
hideous appearance. Their habitations are scarcely superior to
the lair of the monkey. Four slender poles stuck into the ground,

84 TOTA.GE OUT.

tied together at the top, and covered with leaves, form the whde
structure. A few leaves scraped into a comer make the hed
Their only manufactures are some poor bows and arrows, hard-
ened at the end by fire, or pointed with bone ; and some simple
fishing-tackle. Addicted to war (!), and kept down by scanty food,
their numbers amount to less than three thousand souls. Who
will go to these ? Who will carry the torch of truth into that
thick gloom ? Lord, send by whom thou wilt send !

14. Passed not for fix)m the Freparis and Narcondam
Islands. The former is accessible only on the eastern side. It
is about seven miles long, entirely covered ^mth a dense fbrest,
and uninhabited. Monkeys and squirrels, said to be the only
quadrupeds, are exceedingly numerous. Narcondam is regarded
as of volcanic origin, and has on its summit the apparent crater
of an exhausted volcano. Its form is conical, and, though the
island is very small, its height is computed at two thousand five
hundred feet It is visible in very clear weather seventy miles.

17. Since leaving Kedgeree, we have held meetings every
evening with the men in the forecastle, and are rejoiced to find
eight out of the ten avowing themselves subjects of deep convic-
tion, and declaring their full purpose of heart to follow Christ in
all his appointed ways. We usually preach a familiar discourse,
and then converse with them personally. Their gradual progress
has been very perceptible, and so far very satisfactory. Several
of them pray in our little meetings with great propriety. Three
of them give good evidence of conversion, and desu*e baptism.
They are much the most sensible men in the crew, and one has
an excellent education. We hope they will be found true to their
new purpose, amid the temptations of the future, and redeemed
at last by the grace of God.

CHAPTER IL

Amnl at Amfaent— Fint Sabbath at Manlmain— iCoastiiig Voyage—
Moiiii|a.||ia.goiiiY— CnriMity of the People—- Walk over the Mountain—
ravojr—- llala— Kaieos; their Piety, Liberality, Temperance, Grati-
tude) Letten froQi Yoong Converts ; Churches 3 Books — Mergui 3 Popu-
lation 3 Chinese ; MoHulmans and Christians ; Siamese Shans 3 Important
as a MiMJonaiy Station ^—Tenasserim Islands — Se-lOngs — Storm-—
DisagieeaUe Inseeta— Variety of Costumes— Karen Junior— Grave-yard.

IffoRDAT, Febi ^ 18% Cast anchor at Amherst Thanks to
God fin* hia great mercy in lainging us to our desu-ed haven in
safety and peace!

Haying yesterdajr sent a line to Mr. Judson at Mauhnain, by a
email boat, we had scarcely anchored before Mr. Osgood was on
board to welcome ubl It was a joyous meeting, saddened, how-
ever, by sedng in brother Osgood^s face evidence of infirm health.
He brought covered boats to take us to Maulmain, and at ten
o'clock, the tide being fiivorable, we set out, and arrived about
day-break. Brother J. received us with exultation at the aid we
brought, and we were soon comfortably quartered — myself at
brother J.'a, and the rest at the houses of brethren Osgood,
Hancock, and Vinton.

Our first Sabbath in this daik land was, of course, full of inter-
est In the morning, we worshipped with the Burman congre-
gation in the zayst About seventy were present, nearly aU Chris-
tians. Seldom have I seen so attentive and devout an audience.
They sat, of course, on the floor, where mats were spread for
their acconmiodation, a large bamboo, about eigliteeii iuclies
from the floor, serving as a rest to the back. In prayer, the
Americans knelt, and the rest, without rising from the floor, leaned
forward on their elbows, putting their palms togetlier. At tlie
close of the petition, all responded an audible ./^men — a prac-
tice truly apostolic, and strangely discontimied with us. Mr. J.
preached with much apparent earnestness, and all listened with
rapt attention. Several inquirers were present, some of whom
applied for baptism.

At night, attended at tlie chapel, where worship in English
is regularly maintained. About one hundred were present, chiefly
soldiers. During the whole day, the gong resounded in different

36 BCUUH,

parts of the citj, and in the eTeiiing Bereral theatres were opened.
We were informed that one of the chiefi was goring a leaBt
of seven days, on the occaraon of his last child having his

After holding a meeting earlj on Monday morning, to decide
on the destination of Hr. Davenport, I returned to the ship, to
superintend the dischai^ of the cargo, and got back in the night
on IHiesdajr. During the intervals of loading lighters, I went
ashore, and sketched Mrs. Judson's grave, and the tree over it.

The head and foot stones are in perfect order, and, with the
little grave of "Maria," are enclosed in a light bamboo fence.
The mouth of the Satwen and the broad expanse of ocean
opens on the left It is a holy epot, calculated indeed to
awaken the emotions which the sweet poetess has ascribed
to the traveller.

Instead of attempting to describe my thoughts and feelings
as I gazed upon the spot, ] will give some stanzas written by
Mrs. Sigoumey, to whom 1 forwarded a copy of the picture, with
tiie request that she would furnish a few lines.

THE HOPIA-TREE,

" RcEt ! lUsl ! The hopLa-troe ia gnax,
And proudlj wovea its leafy ecreen

Thy lowly bed above ;
And by Ihy iide, no more to weep,
TliiDe iufsnt Bliares the gtntle sleep,

Tby jgiin^eat bud of lore.

"How ol\ iU Teebly- wailing ciy
Detuned unsealed Lhy watchful eye.

And psined tliat parting hour,
When pallid Death, with stealthy tread,
Descried thee on thy fever-bed,

Aod proved hia fatal power!

" Ah ! do I see, with faded ohaim,
Thy bead reclining- on thine ana,

TbB"Ttackcr" farawly? —
But now, tby mission -labors o'er.
Real, weary clay, to wake do mnce

Till the great rising day."

Thw spake the traveller, as be alayed
Hii step witbin that sacred shade :

A man of God was he,
Wbo his Redeemer's glory sought.
And pausf d to woo the holy (bought

Beneatb that hopia-tree.

The Salwen'g tide went rushing by.
And Burniah's cloudless mimn was high,

With many a solemn star ;
And while he mused, methaaght thers bIoIb
An angel's whisper o'er his soul,

From that pure clime afar —

Where swells no more the heathen sigh.
Hot 'nealb the idol's stony eye
Dark sacrifice is done, —
And where no more, by prayers and tears,
And toils of agonizing years.
The martyr's crown is won.
Yot r. 4

38 BUBVAB.

Then Tisions of the faith that bleit
The dying saint's rejoicing breasti

And set the pagan free,
Came thronging on, serenely bright.
And cheered the traveller's heart that night.

Beneath the hopia-tree.

Tuesday, 29. Waited with Mr. J. on Mr. Blimdell, the omn-
missioner of the province, or governor, as he is here commonly
called, and on Mr. Condamine, the second in office. They re-
ceived us politely, and were able to answer me many important
questions. Mr. Blunddl is regarded as a skilful and prudent
governor, and as earnestly desirous of the true prosperity of the
country. He estimates the entire population of the provinces
under his care at less than 300,000 souls; the provinces of
Amherst, Tavoy, Y^h, and Mergui, at less than 100,000 ; and Ar-
racan at about 200,000.

Having concluded unanimously, at a full meeting of the
brethren, to call a general convocation of all our missionaries
who could attend and return before the rains, it has become ne-
cessary that my visit to Tavoy and Mergui should be made before
such meeting, which, in view of all considerations, we appointed
for the 30th of March. In order to be exempt from the delays
and disappointments attendant on vmiting for casual vessels, we
chartered a small cutter. She is a tiny craft, of 40 or 50 tons,
but has a little cabin, which acconunodates Mr. Abbott* and
myself very welL

The coast presents noble mountain scenery, but is entirely un-
inhabitable, as is the case also with numerous islands, and which
form almost a continuous chain, a few miles from shore. Dense
forests cover the whole, presenting throughout the year a rich
and varied verdure. To avoid three or perhaps four days' delay
in going round Tavoy Point, and up the river, I was set ashore,
with a few articles of immediate necessity, at Mowtg-morgotrngy a
small Burman village, eight or ten miles' walk fit)m Tavoy. It
stands nearly a mile fit)m the shore, with wide paths and good
houses, beautifully shaded by noble trees, especially the bunyatha
or jack, a species of the bread-fruit While the necessary prep-
arations were bemg made, 1 was conducted to the cool zayat,
and was scarcely seated on its floor of split canes, when a wo-
man brought a nice mat for me to lie on, another presented me
with cool water, and the head man went and plucked for me a

* A fellow-passenger from America, destined for the Karens.

Wll^ OVER THIS HODKTAIiaS. 30*

half dozen of Sue orangea. Non« sought or expected Uie least
reward, but disappeared, aud left me to my repose. A ooiistant
succeseiou of children, however, came lo gaze at tlie foreigner,
osd some wameii, with babes on llieir iijps, equalled ut a little
fctonce to grati^ their curioaity ; all, however, behaving with
decorum aud respect. In a. Burmao village, the tayal ia tlie oiilj
hvera. Tt consists of a shed witli a floor raised tliroe or four feel
finm the ground, and wide verandas lo keep off the sun. The
quitity of the building varies with die wealth and geueroaity of
llie villagers. Some are truly splendid. As chairs and tables are
uil of the queadon, and as every traveller carries his own pro-
lidoD, here is an ample hotel. The neighbors readily furnish
irster, and fruiis seem free. A little fire, kindled near, cooks the
lice ; an hour's slumber follows the unpretending mesl, and all
lliiogs are ready for a slarL

After some repose, the cooley (or porter] having adjusted the
baggage at the ends of a pole, placed it on his shoulder, and
valked on as guide. Afler passuig some patches of phie-apple,
tad many noble fruit-trees of kinds luiseen before, we entered the
jungle, and began to wind our way over the mountains, wliich ex-
tend along ail this coast, and terminate at Tavoy Point. Though
no rain has fallen since October, the foliage was fresh and intense.
Flowers, great and small, beamed on us at every step, and insoine .
places filled the air widi fragrance. Innumerable vines, creep-
ing, climhiug, and depending, suemcd to intertwine tlie trees for
mutual support A great variety of parasites clung to the
branches, sometimes with very large leaves, forming a complete
end beaudful sheath to the entire trunk, and sometimes sending
down long stems thirty or forty feel, waving to the breeze like
small ropes. The lower portions of the mountain are of coaree,
gray granite, the higher parts of some &^ble stone with which I
was not acqu^ted; the soil generally a sti^ reddish clay.
Near the summit of the moimtaln, we stopped at a shallow
well, and, spreading a cloth on the groiuid, my servant pro-
duced the result of bis morning cooking on board the cutter,
with fine cool water, drawn in a joint of bamboo. In the
midst of our frugal meal, a couple of ponghees came up, followed
by servants bearing their baggage, and stopped imder the shade
of the same great tree, though on the opposite side. After
dining, an ample plate-full was given to the cooley, while Jesse
sat down and helped himself The poor cooley took the plate,
and, squatting down at some distance from the elder priest,
reached forward with great reverence, and presented the wtiole>

40 BUBMAH.

The old man and his followers took a little, but with indi^r-
ence. The bread he smelled, and examined, and tasted, but
threw it away. His palate, I suppose, was not adjusted to such
a novelty.

As we sat waiting for the sun to decline, Jesse engaged die
old man in a religious discussion. They both pleaded with great
earnestness and much gesture, though sitting ten feet apart. I
could but pray earnestly that the poor gray-headed idolater might
be convinced of the truth, and my recently-converted man be
able to set Jesus savingly before him. How I longed to be able
to proclaim to them the great salvation ! The old man at length
got out of patience, and moved off, followed by his company.
The Lord grant that this people may be inclined to accept the
heavenly boon which American Christians are offering them.
About sunset, arrived at Tavoy, and was most kindly received by
Mrs. Mason and Miss Gardner, the only missionaries now at
the station.

March 14. The ten days spent in this city have been much oc-
cupied with the missionaries, in hearing statements, asking ques-
tions, examining accounts, visiting schools, giving advice, and
such other official duties as will recur at every station. Such
matters do not belong here, and my readers will not expect to
find them in subsequent pages, though they form an important
part of my duties.

The town and suburbs of Tavoy contain, as I am informed by
the acting governor,* 1845 houses, with a population of 9,045
souls, giving a fraction less than five to a house. Of these, about
two hundred are Chinese men, generally married, and, of course,
to Burman females. There are also Malays, Malabars, Mussul-
mans, &c. The streets are in good order, with much shade, and
exhibit some stir of business. Good vessels are built here, and
a regular trade maintained with the chief places along the coast
firom Singapore to Canton. This secm*es bakers and many
otiier convenient mechanics.

The province, exclusive of the city, contains 4,768 houses, and
35,143 inhabitants ; or rather over five to a house. There are
firom thirty to forty criminal convictions per annum. The rev-
enue is more than equivalent to the expenditure of the Company
in keeping up its military and civil establishments, which is said
not to be tiie case with any other of these provinces. The number

* Dr. Richardson. To this genUeman, who has travelled more exteDsively
in Burmah and these provinces than any other European here, I am indebted
for much valuable information.

of priests is estimated at about four bundred. Of b

are about fiftj- ; of whom all I saw were beyond middle life, ajid

generally wore the aspect of raendicnnls.

The dialect of Tavoy is a sort of obsoli^te Biirmnn, scarcely
intelligiblo to tliose who ejieak the pure language ; but no
difference exists in writing.

The misaionaries nt this station are Mr. and Mrs. Wade,
Sfr. and Mrs. Mason, Bad Miss Gardner. The )ii(to-r nlone and
Mrs, M. attend to llie Tnvoyei-s, and only in ibe wiiy of schools.
Of these, there are generuJly five or six, containing about 150

The married missionaries, though obliged to reside here part
of the year, on account of the unhealthinesa of tlie Karen fbrests
(luring the rains, give iheir whole time and attention to that peo-
ple. The dry season they spend among the mountains, some-
times several months in a place, portictilarty nt Mats. From
April to October, Ibey remain nt Tavoy, engaged in the study of
Karen, and preporing books in that language, while their wives,
Bseifited by Miss Gardner, attend to boardlDg-scliools for Karen
children, who come to town for this piupose.

Public worship in the Bumian language is held every Sunday
morning, in a convenient chnpel, of ample dimeUFions, at which
the children of all the day-schools, with their teachers, are re-
quired to bo present. Few of t!ie rillier lienllien ''iti/piis ottend;
seldom more than two or three ; and as there are but five native
Cluisdans in Tavoy, the congregation is veiy small. Some that
were baptized here, have gone to other places. Worship is also
held every eveiung at the house of one of the missionaries, at
irtuch the native Christians and pupils in the boarding-schools
attend. Seven soldiers have been baptized, but all are now gone,
snd only a gentiemau in the medical service, and the missiona-
ries, form at this time the Baptist communion in Tavoy. In no
part of our field is help more wanted than for the Bunnan de-
partment of the Tavoy mission.

Two days' journey from Tnvoy, a considerable number of
Karens, converted in different places, have been brought together,
md formed into a Christian village ; the heads of every &mily
being members of the church. These CJiristians now amount
to about two hundred, and conduct themselves with exemplary
rectitude. By the aid of the missionaries, they have obt^ed
goats, bullocks, oil-mills, seeds, &c.; and with these, and still
more by the increased industry they have been taught to prac-

'^^ V. ^ \ ^ ^,. ^ ^

tise, they have been enabled to cease their wanderings^ and
quire many comforts to which their countrymen are strangerSi
Cleanliness, in which Karens are universally deficient, has been
attained in no small degree. The men have been exhorted to
raise plenty of cotton, and the women induced so to apply them-
selves to spinning and weaving, as to furnish every one of their
&mihes with a change of raiment They now wash their gar-
ments often, which before they scarcely ever did. Their ground,
under their houses, which always used to be receptacles for filth
and vermin, is all swept out clean every Saturday afternoon,
and the rubbish burnt On Sunday, they come to public worship
perfectly clean, and, as their costume covers the person entirely)
the sight would please the most fastidious American eye,*

f „.£ut-it-i8-the spiritual change visible at' Mata,^ ^wiridrtnnost
d^ghtfuL . . in- this -reiqieetf ^ley present tt Tuost aWiauii i e H[ll4 ?-
lade; Punctual in all public services, they fill ii Inrir, n Tnjmt gfl _

\^^ Ike 0ubbaili, and manifest a decorum and devotion &r superior
/ to any thing ordinarily seen in America. Being a musical peo- /
pie, and having a book of osec-a hundred hymns, composed by ^
Mr. Mason, they, almost without exception, unite in the singing;
and to my ear their psalmody was correct and sweet After a
prayer or a benediction, they all utter an audible "w^men," re-
main silent on their knees for the space of half a minute, and
retire in perfect silence — a practice which would greatly im-
prove our meetings. Mrs. Wade has been in the habit of hold-
ing daily a prayer-meeting with them at sunrise. Almost every
morning, before day-light, many gather at the zayat, and com-
mence singing hymns. As soon as Mra Wade is seen issuing
firom her door, at sunrise, they strike the gong, and presently the
.^ multitude come together. It is ramnrkahloi that not ona man ar
^ wamail I ' SfUiiBH Ui pray when e all e d upoui On Sunday, a Sun-

^^ day school is held in the morning, at which all the children of
proper age attend ; those that are not professors being formed
into one company, and the others into another, superintended by
the missionary and his wife alternately. Pubhc worship and
preaching are held morning and evening. The afternoon is

* Friends who wish to make little presents to the Karen Christians, might
send fine-tooth combs, brown soap, writing-paper, slates and pencils, quills,
strong scissors, cotton cloth, tkiread, large needles, and penknives. Garments
of any description are not wanted.

t The name given their village, importmg, literally, '' Love/' Sometimes
Ihey call it Mata-myu, or City of Love.

often employed in baptizing, or adminiBteriiig the communion
tad wlien Ihia ia doI the case, prayer' meetings ore lield
tiouBeB of the wck. Some fifty or more members of the church
live at diiferetit distances iu the comitry, as tar round ae five or
six milea. Those attend puiiclually, geueralty widbijig in oa
Saturday sfteraooti, that tliey may lose no part of the bleseod

It will of course be supimaed that thia people, so lately wild
lud nanderiug, without book?^ without even the ibniia of reli-
gion, and furnished as yet with uo port of the word of God in
[faeir own tongue, and but a single manusctipt copy of the Gos-
pel of Mattbew, would be exceedingly ignorant of the claims of
ChristJaiiity. They are indeed so. But it is exliilaratiug to see
the rciadiness and cordiality with which they enter into tiie per-
formance of BTBry duly, as soon as it is made known to them.
Time would fail to describe all the instoncee which illustrate this
remark ; but one or two may be named. Mrs. W. had on one
occaeioa read to them that chapter iu Matthew, which, describing
ilie judgment, spcnks of visiting Chrigt (as represented in liis dis-
ciple) when sick or iti prisoii, &c. They at once saw how ro-
pu'dless they had been of persons under siirkness and sorrow ;
ind the very next day began lo perform services to the sick, such
IE they had never thought of doing before, A poor widow, who
had a leprous sort of diaeoBe, and a child about two yeurs old,
Bimilarly afiected, were visited by many of them the very next
day. They performed many repulsive offices for her and her
child, brought water, cleaned the house, gave them rice and other
articles, and so enriched and comforted the poor creature, that she
was bewildered with delight These etteotions have continued
nmstantly. Another, who was bed-ridden with loathsome sores,
was attended to in the same way. Since that time, no one is
■ufiered to want any thing which the rest enjoy. These kind-
nesses are done with studied concealment, and can be learned
only &om the lieneficiaries themselves.

On being told of the persecution of Moung San-lone and
others at Rangoon, and how they had been chained, imprisoned,
and excessively fined, they unexpectedly proposed subscribing
toward paying his fine and releasing them from prison ; end out
of their deep poverty actually sent to Rangoon 50 rupees for this
purpose. They have built, of their own accord, a siifHcient bouse
for the residence of their missionary and his family, and a zayat.
A greater evidence of Christian generosity ia seen in tiieir mia-
nouary zeoL Those whose abihtiei^ as assistants or school-maa-

ini I
he \
■oh \

44 BUmMAB.

tearBy warrant the missionaries in sanctioning it, are ever ready to
part with their families, and go wearisome journeys of six months
at a time, among distant villages, where they are utterly unknown,
carrying on their backs tracts and food, sleeping on the way in
trees, or on the ground, and enduring many privations. Young
men, whose services are very important to their aged parents in
clearing jungle and planting paddy, are readily spared, and go to
various points, during the rainy season, teaching school, for which
their salary is firom two to three dollars a month — half what they
could earn in other employ. About twenty school-masters and
assistants are now thus employed. Mr. Mason has, in his excur-
sions, baptized many converts who were brought to the knowl-
edge of the truth by these assistants. His last journey among the
retired villages between Tavoy and Mergui has been cheered by
the reception of a number of such.

The change in regard to temperance is not less remarkaUe.
Unlike the Burmans, whose religion utterly forbids strong drink,
and who scarcely ever use it, the Karens use it universally, and
generally to excess : every family make arrack for themselves,
and from oldest to youngest partake. Drunkenness, with all its
train of horrors, is rife among them, of course. But no sooner do
any become serious inquirers, and consort with the disciples for
further instruction, than they totally abandon the accursed thing.
In Mata, therefore, not a drop is made or drank. The children
of the very men who were sots are growing up without having
tasted or seen it The consequences to domestic peace and
general welfare may be supposed.

It will be recollected that they knew nothing of letters or
books, till Mr. Wade reduced their language to writing, about
three years ago. It is found that the system he has adopted is
eminently philosophical, and so easy for learners, that, in a few
weeks, pupils who have never seen a letter learn to read
with ftjcility.

As evidence at once of the benefit of Mrs. Wade's school, and
Ae piety of the young converts, I will here give translations of
some letters received from pupils on coming away from Tavoy.
They are part of some twenty or more, and are a fair specimen.

Letter from a female Scholar aged 15 years.

«*0 Great Teacher!

" We put our trust in Jesus Christ, the eternal God. O great
teacher, having heard that you have come to Tavoy, I have a great
deaire to see thy face. Therefore, O great teacher, when thou prayest *

>H TOCSa CO.IVEftTS. 45

to Ot>d, I beg tbee to pray for me : when I pray, I will remember tJiee,
great leaclier '. Wheu 1 fieard of thy arriTSl, I hitd b gietl desire Ut
go to you. 1 said to my Tathei, 1 will go ; but he did Dot give peimii-
•ioa. M; mlad was cast down, and my teira fell much, O grettl
teacher [ O pray for me, and I, wheo 1 prRy, will much pray &r thee.
" A letter of aSecdon from

" Njw Poo Moo."

FTom a Girl of 16, icho had i«cn to SeAoal niae moalhi,
" O Grpat Teacher : Sir,

"Great UUie grace and glory of Jeiufl Cbriat, (he Son of the
Eternal God ! In former ILmes, we heard not IJie word of God. But
aow, ait, we endeavor very much lo keep his comnumda. I heard of
your coming, and my mind was very happy. Bull greatly desire to Beo
70a ; therefore do come lo Mata, O great teacber ; By hearing of yoor
arrival, my leara fell iDUcti. Great air, in order thai I may fcecp the
word of Ihc Lord, do pray for me, and tliat we may meet together
amidat the joyg of heaven : aa for me, 1 tmat I exert myaelf in ptayar
truly lo God.

" The affectionate letter of the disciple

"Moo Til."

From a Oirt J6 yeart ofaga,
'• O Great Teacher \

" We put our trust in Jeans Christ, the Son of the eternal God.
IVieo you pray to God, pray for ua ; and when we pray, we iviU pray fot
thee! When I set oat to return, by means of longing after thee, I cried
much ; but by thmbingon the grace of God, my mind waa aomewhat let
down. Notwithstanding, during the whole day in which we were aep-
araled from you, my longin^a did not cease. I thought that in tliig
state we see each other but a amall moment; but when we arrive in
heaven, we shall behold each other age upon age ', Then we cannot
be separated. O great teacher, I have a painflil desire to see your coun-
tiy. In order to go with you, I asked and obtained permission of mj
mother. If you consent, please write me a kind letter immediately.
But if you do not give permission, do not write. As for me, I have an
earnest wish to see the country of the teachers and their wives.

" Niu Moo Klur."

T might add many interesting facte and incidents, which filled
me with pleasure and thankfulness on their behalf. Hut I am
not drawing a picture, for the sake of exhibiting glowing colors.
Christian beneroleiice does not depend on success. If it did, the
town of Mata, Btnid the solitude of the great tnountains of Ta-
voy, exhibits &cts, wiiich, if tbey were all the effects our whole

46 BURMAE.

musioDaiy operadons could boast, are sufficient to assure the
most incredulous of the blessedness of our enterprise.

When endeavors to do good fail, it is a sweet reward to see
those we meant to benefit grateful for our interference. And
when good is really done, our pleasure is oflen neutralized by the
pain of being ungratefully requited. Those who support our
enterprise ought to know that this people testify aloud their con^
tinual gratitude toward the Christians of this country for the
knowledge of Christianity. They oflen compare their former
degradation and misery with their present comforts and hopes.
The pastor of the Mata church frequently speaks of these things
in moving terms — himself once a sot, and crueL The missiona-
ries cannot remain in the forest during the rains, so that this
church is left six months in the year to itsel£ Their return is
the occasion of a general rejoicing. When they are ready, many
come to Tavoy to accompany them out, and to carry portions of
the articles to be transported ; and, where the way is sufficiently
level, carry Mra Wade or Mrs. Mason in a Utter. As the long jQle
winds under the trees, along the narrow crag, or up the bed of
a torrent, songs of Zion echo among the dark recesses, and nature
rejoices to see her Maker glorified by men who for ages received
his favors brutishly. Warned of their approach, the villagers
come forth in troops, some hours' walk, and, after glad greetings,
fidl in behind, (for the path admits no double file,) and the length-
ened train comes into the village with resounding joy.

Nor is Mata alone in its brightness, amid Burman shades.
All along the jungle as far as Mergui to the south, and above
Maulmain on the north, Karens are turning to God. The mis-
sionaries properly discourage their always collecting into exclu-
sively Christian villages ; but in some cases it seems expedient
and necessary. Among the Karens in the Tavoy provinces are
the following churches, beside Mata, which are also regular
out-stations : — Toung Byouk GoUb, two and a half days south
of Tavoy ; 16 members, 25 inquirers : Pee-kah, four days south of
the last-named church; 15 members, 43 inquirers: Kah^pah,
three days south of Peekah, on a stream of the same name, navi-
gable for boats ; 20 members, and within a day's walk, 34 in-
quirers, most of whom have asked for baptism : Tah-mlahf on
the Teuasserim, three days from Mergui ; 9 members. All these
have good places of worship, built by themselves ; and each has
a native pastor and a Christian school-master. There are also in
die region six other schools, under Christian masters ; and meas-
ures are in train to form others. On an average, last year, ten

leanipd to read ia each school, some of whom are middle aged,
aad some quiie old persons. The names of ihe paelors ure nol
given here, because, beiug youug men, lliey are cliauged every
jea, to give each an opportunity of being with the missiouaiy
' half his time in the acquisitioD of Christian knowledge.

The only printed books in Karen are lliree tracla — Mrs. Jud-
•dd's Catechism, IraiiBlBted by Mr. Wade, with the commanda of
iIm New Testament as contained in tliH"Viewi'' Sayings of tha
Fathere, a email tract coDlaiiiing traditiouB and command^
vhjch remarkably coincide with bibiieai history; and Mrs. Juct>
hd'b Catecliism Tersilied — holli the latter by Mr. Mason. Thor»
in in Ihe Taroy provinces about 350 Karens who have learned
U read. The younger part of these generally show great coT'
neatness in copying such other works as are prejiarcd by the
Diisaionary, and not yet printed. The works which have been
written or tnuiHlated, and the (irinting of which is greatly needed,
sre as follows : — Gospel of Mattliew ; Vade Mccum, containing
paamges of Scripture, with reflections for every day in the month)
■nd embracing on extended view of ilm Chrisiisii religion;
lifTim Book, containing upwards of 120 hymns ; enlarged edition
of the "Sayings," by Mr. Mason; translation of Mr. Judsou's
Tmw of the Christian religion, and translation of most of Mtj
BcwdiDBii's Kgeal, both 1^ native Christians; a tract, con-
eJMing of didactic and hortatory pieces, by native preachers ; Mr.
Judson's View of the Christian religion, versified, by Sau Paulah,
a native assistant; Bible-Class Questions on Matthew, by Mr.
Wade; Brief Biogrophies of Joseph, and other Old TpBWincnl
Characters, by the eame ; Child's Catechism for Sunday schoolsf
by Mr. Vinton ; Lee-mo-pga, or spellmg-book of the Chegau or
Myettho; da of the Pwo or Myet-kyen, {the two dialects used by
the Karens,) by Mr. Wade. Beside these, there are a Grammar,
by Mr. Mason, and a Dictionary, by Mr. Wade, in an advanced
state of preparation, and a considerable mass of manuscript^
for the use of present and future missionaries, which it is IMit
intended to print ; such as Customs and Demon Worship of Ka-
rens; &b]es and legends, amounting to more than 100; Karen
poems and traditions ; many letters from KarraiB, copied into a
book, to show the structure of the language ; an extensive Tocab^
ulary of common things, in English and Karen; another in
Burman, Karen, and English ; and a phrase-book for beginners,
in Burman and Karen.

1 was happy to find that the Christians here partook of the
seal of tti^ tjansatlantic fiiends, in giving f<H' the support of a

48 BU&MAH.

preached gospeL A society has been formed, called ** The Tsvoj
Missionary Society, auxiliary to the Baptist Board of Foreign
Missions," which has been in existence four years. For the laat
two years, it lias supported four native assistants. It is sustained
chiefly by the Europeans and Americans at the station; but sev-
eral of the natives pay their regular monthly contribution.

I had the pleasure, in my voyage from hence down the coaat^
to be accompanied by Rev. Mr. Wade ; and, aiier four dayi^ ar*
rived at MerguL The only European with whom we had inter-
course there was Captain McLeod, the commissioner, or aeting
governor of the province, who received us to his house with the
utmost cordiality. He communicated, with great frankness^ many
important facts, beside patiently answering a wearisome round
of questions. There are but 35 British inhabitants in the piace^
including conmion soldiers.

Mergui, or, as the natives call it. Bike, is beautifully sLtnated at
the mouth of the middle branch of the Tenasserim. This noble
river has three principal mouths, and several minor ones. The
chief is that about four miles north, and receives, a few miles
before it enters the ocean, the Byng River j&om the north. Afme
island, opposite the town, shelters it from the south-west mon-
soon, and makes a safe though small harbor.

The site of the city embraces a high hill, surmounted, as oaual,
with conspicuous pagodas. Next to the sea it rises abrcqrtly ; and
the houses of the English, which are erected on its smmnit, have
a magnificent view of the lower town, the harbor, and the ocean.
Most of the town cannot be seen in the picture. The rear of the
hill slopes gradually, and is thickly built with native houses, on
regular streets, sheltered from the sim by fine firuit and other
trees, almost as close as in a forest Among these, the cocoa-nut,
jack, and papaya, are the most fi^quent At the time Captain
Alexander Hamilton visited this city, it was in possessian of
Siam. He calls it Merjee, and says that ^ in former times there
were many English there." The massacre of these, which was
succeeded by the expulsion of those in Siam, occurred in 1687.
The chief exports are sapan wood, dennee, mats, ratans, sea-slug,
tortoise-shell, and edible birds' nests. It was founded within a
century by the Burmans. The ancient fortifications are still
seen, Uiough rapidly vanishing by the use of the bricks for other
purposes. It is thus with the ramparts of all the tovims in
British Burmah, it being useless to retain extensive walls for a
handful of troops, which, if occupied by hosts of natives, might
help them in resistance.

isf-

The ^fbdiB proTince of Mergui has a popubtion of only 10,00(1^
of which above 6,000 are in Uub toivtu This great scautinesa oi'
people in one of the finest regionB of the earth ia chiefly owing to
tiie intolerable government under which they have lived. About
twen^ yeara ago, it was unusually severe uuiler the viceroyship
of DBing-woon,whonBs engaged in repelling the Biainese. Th«
atrocities of ihia monster were incredible, and drove forty or fifty
tbousaiid inhabitanla from the province, besides the multitudoi
which he deatroyed. In speaking to the Bunoang of hell, e
at this day, uo circumstance is so appalling, as to assure them,
that Doiug-woon will be there !

Here, as at MButmsiji and Tuvoy, I find niunerous ChiDomeii,
married to Bunnan ivives, They are at once the most valunbta
of iIjo community for mechanical and mercantile convenience^
and the most pernicious for introducing and Tending, whereTer
tlioy go, armdc and opium. Without them, Eiuvpeaus would.
suSer many discomforts, and through them, the natives are
greatly corrupted. Their siiperiorily, in civilization and intelli-
gence, to the various nations with whom they ore intermixed in
every part of the East, is very striking.

Beside the usual quantity of pagodas and kyoungs, there are
four mosques, for the use of the Mussulman part of the popuEa-
tion, and i^ Popish cbapeL About four hundred of tlw iuhtibit-
ants, desceodnnls of the early Portuguese, profess to Im Cliriatii
No converts, that my informants knew o^ have joined the nuio-
ber from among the Burmese, except some who unite in order to
be married to those who belonged before.

Mergui hue been put down as one of our stations, but it wu
only occupied by a native assistant for six months. We hava
but one professed Christian in the place, and tbar a woman. Mr.
Mason has been thrice through the town, on his way to the Ka-
rens up the Tenesserim ; and the efforts he and his assistants have
made, have met encouraging results. In this respect, a very great
change has been wrought, we trust, by the good hand of th«
Xjord. Ko Ing was greatly persecuted, and could get but few
bearers. He was reviled as he walked along the street, and some
would even throw stones. At his death, the people showed no
disposition to listen ; and his wife, with the abore-Damed woman,
were the only Christians. His death robbed the mission of one
of its most valuable assistants, and the subsequent marriage and
removal of his wife, left the soUtary widow to hold up a faint
light in a dark place. Now, the case is quite different. A large
part of the people readi^ receive tracts and New Testaments, so

50 BURMAH.

much so, that when Ko Myet-lay lately visited the place, taking
one hundred and fifty Testaments and many tracts, all were gone
in two days, without going abroad to offer themu All were ap-
plied for at his lodgings, and received with many expresnons of
thanks. Not only did he thus impart the blessed truths to Bur-
mans ; the Chinese and Siamese, liearing that he also had tracts
in their languages, came for them ; and he entirely disposed of a
considerable quantity sent by Mr. Jones firom Bankok. It is now
easy to obtain attentive hearers, though frequently some dispute.
Not only do many listen with apparent candor, but some seem
really under serious impressions, and about twelve profess to
have embraced the gospel. These have not yet been baptized,
for want of opportunity sufficiently to examine and try them;
but they are said to be steadfast, tibough much reviled by their
pagan acquaintance. They are like sheep without a shepherd,
and need immediate care. Moreover, they would probably form
an encouraging church at once, if a missionary could be placed
there. The husband of the disciple above named, and an inter-
esting daughter, are desirous of baptismu

Late circumstances have conspired with the above facts to
make Mergui now a favorable opening. A few years ago, the
two chief ponghees came to an open rupture, and all the people
took sides vnth one or the other. Great animosity and confusion
prevailed for a long time, each party denouncing hell to the other.
A few months ago, one of them retired to Tavoy, and there died.
His party have ever since utterly refused to worehip the priests
who remain, or make them offerings, and, in fact, have almost
ceased from religious observances. These are now particularly
ready to hear our preachers.

The fact, too, that Siamese Shyans live here, most of whom,
the men at least, speak Burman ; and that on the Tenasserim, and
its tributary streams, and on the coast below Mergui, they have vil-
lages, one containing 800 souls, — urges us to make early efiR)rt8
here. If any of these Shyans should receive Christ, (and surely
we may hope and believe they would,) they would be invaluable
in carrying the gospel to their countrymen, who inhabit the hills
and mountains from the Tenasserim to Bankok. Tracts, &c in
this language, can at once be had from Mr. Jones, and all things
seem to be ready. The intercourse between Burmah and Siam,
so fkr as the natives of the two countries are concerned, is per-
fectly unrestrained, though no white man is allowed to pass the
frcmtier.

Many Karens, too, are conveniently accessible, by boat, from

Mergui, by the Tenaeserim and ibt braDcheB. Mata village stands
on on eslreme bnutcli of Uiis river, acceasible by w-ater only to
very sdibU btMia. TeDoueerim city, onue very lorge, bul now con-
laiuiDg a pupulalioa of only about 250, is but lurty inileH up the
river from Mergui. It is resorted lo from diflereiit iilaees iiw
frold-dust, and would be an importuiil out-post for u native so- 1

The islands on the Tenasserini cousi ore quite populous, an^
as yet, have never been viHiU'd by Cbristian teachers. There are
three large islands in one cluater, inlmbiled by Se-longs, vvittiout
a written language, and in a very degrtulcd slate. Tliese would
claim Gonie ot the time of native assiatauta from Mergui, and oc-
cajjionoJ visile Irom the miBsioiiary.

AU ihe^ &CI8 conspire to urge ua to place a mi^sioDary here
as eooD as possible. In order to tbis, tiie nuiD must be sent out,
as no midaioaary on the ground can be spared Irom his present
post. The place is as salubrious, perlaps, as any part of Iba
earth ; and the presence of the British officers secures nearly all
the conveniences of housekeeping with entire regularity. The
«OEt of living is less titan, at Maidmain.

Learning that Mr. Hason was at a village not kt distant, co
the coast, intending lo remain a lew days, and tlien uome lo
Mergui for a passage borne, 1 sent an expn^ss, and bud ilit' pleas'

or twelve coolies, who bad been carrying his tracts and baggaga
in the jungle, together with some Karen native preachers. The
reports of his journeys are deeply interesting to the friends of
missions, and eminently exemplify the usefulness of native

The present period of the year on this coast is the latter part
of tfae dry season, and is miu'ked by heavy squalls and showers.
After tliese, there are about six weeks of dear weather, in-
creaeingly hot, after which the monsoon changes to the south-
west, with violent squalls, and the rains set in for six months.
In this return voyage to Maulmain, we experienced three of
these storms, accompanied by much thuitder, each severely
testjng the power of our anchor and vesseL The rocky coast
fumiabes no harbor except Mergui, Tavoy, and Amherst; and
the high mountains which skirt the shore seem to draw together
tbe utmost liuy of the elements.

£lHa,^>ClhaaB slomy, experienced off Tavoy Point, will be
meroorahle to all on^ioard. As night drew on, the thunder,
which bad been growling on tbe moimtains, grew more violent.

.yj^^

53 BUBKAB.

I It was evident we should have a hard blow ; and, the tide turning
against us, we were obliged to anchor in an exposed situation.
Afler dark, the wind and lightning increased, and we got top-
mast, gixf£, &c. upon deck, and, paying out much cable, waited
the issue, uneasy. At length it blew a hurricane, and the light-
ning kept up a glare bright as mid-day. It was but at intervals
that it was dark, even for a moment, the light flickering con-
stantly like a torch in the wind. We were in the very midst of
the electric cloud, and the sharp, cracking thunder was deafening.
Torrents of rain drenched the poor fellows on deck, (for there
was room for only two or three below,) and even in the cabin I
had to gather my desk, &c under an umbrella ; for the neglected
seams let in the water in twenty places. The little cutter pitched
heavily at her anchor, and the loud roaring of a lee surf told what
we should experience if she parted her chain. We left all in
the hands of Grod, and were sitting in silence below, v^hen a
universal shout of terror brought us on deck — a ball of fire
rested on the mast-head! The consternation was universal;
the captain and every one of the crew vociferating prayers,
one to the Virgin Mary, another to Mahomet, &c., each in
different language. They seemed frantic, and their voices rose
on the tempest like the swelling wail of dying men. One
declared it was the devil, and proposed to drive him away by
burning a certain mixture to make a horrid smell. They
seemed comforted, however, to see us confident, and aware of
its cause. The Christian Karens were tranquil, but awe-struck,
and lay on their knees with their faces to the deck, uttering
prayer each for himself^ in a low but audible voice. It staid
clinging to the mast amid all the rocking of the surges, till the
Jascars were nearly ready with their incantations, and then dis-
appeared. It was an hour of great danger ; but the good hand
of the Lord was upon us, and our frail bark rode out the storm,
which abated in its violence befoi-e morning. /

Aside from the danger of navigating this side of the bay of
Bengal, (except from September to March, when the weather is
exceedingly fine,) the inconveniences are not small, from the bad
construction and management of the vessels employed, and the
annoying insects, &c. with which they abound. My little cutter
is superior in all those respects to the Burman vessels, which I
expect generally to sail in from place to place. I can stand up
in the cabin, while in those one can only sit, and that on the
floor. I have a little quarter-deck, which they know nothing
o£ And we have an iron anchor, while theirs is but a

IQE. 53

J of wood, ehaped like a fish-hook. On the score of
ineects, too, 1 am iulbrmed tliiit luy couditioii Ie iiir belter. lu
Ibe latter poiot, however, I can by uo irieaim boast.,'' Ifundreds
of ants, great and Bmail, black and red, niovti in etidlesa files
Brery wbere. CackrOHcbes, flying and creeping, spotted, striped,
■ud plaJQ, walk over me and about me all night, but, tlirough
mercy, they do not bite, and are, witliul, quite shy when there is
slight burning, and bo do not interrupt me when engaged. I
now and then kill a forward fellow ; bui it id in vain to tbiuk of
■baling the nuisance, for their " name is legion." 1 Imve nica
Bugar-eaiie laid in a comer for the ants, to keep them away ; but
Kune of them are blood-thirsty, and bite me with all zeal. I
eomelimes walcb n bold fellow, aa he runs over my hand; and,
when he finds a suitable spot, be raises himself perpendicidar,
and digs into me, kicking and struggling, as if he would go
through the ekin. The spiders I kill without mercy; and busy
eoough they kept me, the first day or two. Some of them have
bodies as big as the joint of one's thumb, and occupy, as they
stand, a space as large as the lop of a cofiee-cup. Mice nibble
my clothes at night. 1 have seen but two 6t three centipedes,
and succeeded in killing them ; but there are, doubtless, more on
board. But the musquiloes ! They are a torment day and night.
I am comfbrted widi the assurance that strangers suSer most
with them, and hope they will not " moke a stranger of me "
much longer.

Among uU these enemies, I have no aiuuliuries but two or three
nimble lizards. These I carefully befriend, and they consmiie :
many of the vermin as they can. Ri|t >v|'at nn* tli— "* iim""jf t
■auHT?" Beside their services io the butchering department,
they interest me by their sudden and adroit niovcmeiits
walls and ceiling, and, witlial, giiig for me every nii;ht, a
ss the candle is out

The variety of costume on board is strilcing. My man is

from Madras, and wears generally nothing but a pair of calico

diBwera. The captain has nothing but a piece of check wound

tight roimd his hips, and drawn up between his thighs. The

owner's agent, or supercargo, is a Mussulman, and wears, beside

, the waist-cloth, a mnslin jacket with sleeves, tied iu front, so as

to discover the left bceasL The su-cijn-ny, or steersman, is a.

batP-blood Tortugueso, and wears drawers, and a short sitirt or

jacket, of red cahco. One of the sailors has a regiJar short

I gown and petticoat, and tlie other, short drawers only. The

! Ksrens wear notlung but a long shirt without sleeves, made of

indal cotton cloth, iogeniouBl; figured in the Iomil Dinr-

1 dress is sliU greater in the towne, srisiiig from the great
' □ the populatioQ. I have, however, dready become bo

We have one person on board, who excites mj notice — it
Christian disciple, who was a Karen BIioolcoo, or prophet He
was so struck w'oh fear, when the "great teacher"Mnt &r him
into the cabin, to ask him some questioDS, that I got but Uttle
from him. He declered tliat, at first, he felt impelled, he knew
not how, to predict the coming of a deliverer in six months, and
sincerely believed it. But when the lapse of that time jffored
him vrrong, he became wilful, and delibeiBtdf endeavored to
impose on the people's credulity, to Iceep up his influence;

Among my tuxuries at Tavoy, were several visits to the giav«-
yard where, among others, is the tomb of Boardman. It was
(mce a Boodhist grove ; and a dilapidated pagoda still renuuns
within the enclosure. I made the sketch below, in the bbsut-
ance that the friends of missions would love to see the resting-
place of that great, good man, and where other beloved obm
■nay yet lay their bones.

CHAPTER m.

Rnrn Id Maolmain — MiuioaBry CDnrerence — Pnaehiiig— Bah bland—
Knnsi ChiircbeB Dear Maulmiiiii — Wnlcr FeiLivat — CbLacM Ctnmoaj—
Tbe Mohuirum — Ri<er Eicuiiion— Remarkable Cavei— Karen Cbria-
liau Viilage — Churcb-mceUiig and Bapliim — Populction ofMaulmaki
Commerce, Slale of Bwdta^Eni, Slale aflhe Missioa, Ea^iib hiBanace.

Br the utmoet diligence in overseeing tlio boatmen, and taking
tdrentoge of every tide, and every breeze, I got bark to Maul'
BsiiD, in mercy, Ihe morning of March 30, the very day on which
<iar conference waa lo convene. We began our session accord-
ingly, having present brethren Judson, Wsde, Kincaid, Bennett,
Hancock, Mason, Osgood, Vinton, Howard, Webb, Haswell, and
Abbott. Every day, ewiept the Sabbstli, was diligently spent in
llie buaine^ and, beside many important topics, whicli, though
fidly diBciiBged, did not come lo ft formal vote, the following 8ub-
jectB were acted npon, be^de minor onee: — The eetablishment
of a Eeininary for native assistants ; its location, temporary
preceptor, and course of studies and by-la«T! : new fields
uf talKir proposed and described ; native schools ; polygamy
Huong nMive^ and the iDanagentent of such cases in r^ard ta
tpplicantE for baptism ; reducing the size of the Biirman charac-
ter; the pliui of giving English names to nittivo children;
boarding- schools, and tbe best mode of their endowment. Con-
siderable time was taken up in designaring the new missionaries
to their fields of labor. They seem to be aa jewels, which each
was acjdous to seize. Every man felt keenly the claims of his
nation or neighborhood, and louged to see more laborers in
what he deemed so promising a field. It was a noble strife of
(Usinteivsted iove, and so small was the reinforcement, compared
wi& the admitted wants, on all sides, tliat it was difficult lo
decide whore aid should first he sent

The next Sabbath, being the first in April, I preached lo the
brethren and sisters by vote of the convocation. We niel in the
new and unfinished chapol, built for the native church. The
|]ui!ding, though lai'ge for Biirmah, is t>carcely larger than many
dining-rooms in India ; yet, as our little band arranged themselves
in one corner, we seemed lost in the space. There was, however,
moral power in the meeting ; and, when I reflected on the recent
origin of the mission, its small beginnings, and its various dangers

56 BUUIAB.

and hinderances, the company before me was a most reGceabiog
sight Here were twelve missionaries, beside Misses Gardner
and Macomber, and the missionaries' wives. Elsewhese in the
mission were four evangelists and a printer, not computing those
in Siam. The text was, *^ Glorify ye the Lord in the fires ; " and
every heart seemed to say Amen, as sentence after sentence
came forth. It is delightful preaching to greedy listeners; and
long had most of these been deprived of the refireshment of
sitting under a gospel sermon. Mr. Judson had not heard a
sermon in English for fourteen years.

As my eye rested on this loved little company, it was sweet to
contemplate the venerable founder of the mission, sitting there
to rejoice in the growth of the cause he had so assiduously and
painfully sustained. His labors and sufierings for years; his
mastery of the language ; his translation of the whole Word of
God; and his being permitted now to be the pastor of a church
containing over a hundred natives, — make him the most interest-
ing missionary now aUve. What a mercy that he yet lives to
devote to this people his enlarged powers of doing good ! And
we may hope he vnll very long be spared. His age is but forty-
seven ; his eye is not dim; not a gray hair shows itself among
his full auburn locks ; his moderate-sized person seems full of
vigor ; he walks almost every evening a mile or two at a quick
* pace, lives with entire temperance and regularity, and enjoys,
in genera], steadfast health. May a gracious God continue to
make him a blessing more and more.

A day or two afler the close of. our conference, I accompanied
Mr. Vinton to Balu Island, to counsel v^th him on the final choice
of a spot for a new station, and to visit some Karen villages,
where as yet tlie gospel had not been dispensed. This island
forms the right bank of the Salwen River, from Maulmain nearly
to Amherst It is about seventeen miles long, and six or seven
v^de, settled chiefly by Karens. No portion of these Tenasse-
rim provinces is more fertile, or more carefully and successfldly
cultivated. The population of course is dense, amounting to
over 10,000. Along the whole island, fi*om north to south,
stretches a fine chain of moderately-elevated mountains.

Having coasted the northeru end of the island, and passed
down its western side a few miles, we came to a creek, naviga-
ble for row-boats, except at very low tide, and pulled up it to
vtrithin about two miles of the proposed spot From the mouth
of the creek, the rice-fields engross each side as far as the eye
can reach, covering an immense flat, but Uttle above common

Hjt-w8ter mark. The ■walk from the Iwut to the spot proposed
fed Ihroua^h villages and rke-fleWa, till we began to uacend the
atountain, and tlieii presented enough of the benuties of an
(Mental forest to keep a trBasatlantic ej'c intent. Being the
mjdat of the hot Beason, we of course were deprived of its fiill
gkirioB ; but manf trees bore lurge and gorgeous flowers, besida
ehrabs and Btnaller plants, in great variety. Aniericau forests
iftve more large trees, and less undergrowth, but tbey havo
fcirer leavus, and scarcely any flower-bearing trees. Wo w
Berer a moment without a variety of blossoms in sight, and i
DiODy fruits.

ArriTed at the spot, I found it near one of the lower suninuBI^ j
onrlooking rice-fields, limited north and south only by the ez- J
Knt of vision, and to the west coinmandiug a wide view
Dcena, distant five or six miles. From tlie sunmiit of that ledg^ ]
afew yards eHstward,a view scarcely less extensive is had of the I
Bilwen River, Amliersl, and the ocean.

It wDuld seem that, though in the jungle, this spot must
silubriouB, &om its complete exposlu^ to the sea breeze, and M 1
peat elevation ; but 1 fear it will prove too much out of the way j
from the main path. Alter breaklagting on the spot, we
Mended to the village of the Karen chie^ and spent tJie d&y' '
' making contracts for house materials, and testiiying to them the
pace of God.

ThoTigh we lodged each night in the boat, we spent our time
lad ate among the people. The glance thus gained at native
oLamcter was very graliljing. We saw no house where poverty
Beemed to dwell, [though we passed through four or five villages,)
Jind no disorder in nny place. Wbercsex we stojiped to ent, we
entered a house freely, and were immediately offered clean niab^
ind treated with the utmost hospitality. Able and willing to
supply our wants, they sometimes expostulated with the servant,
as he was cooking our meals, that he had brought rice and
fowls, instead of allowing them to fiimish our table. This trait
is prevalent among the Karens. Native aasiatanta go from vil-
lage to village among them, even where the gospel has never
been hetird, and take literally "neither scrip nor purse." They
ire bountifully supplied, even where their message meets only
irith opposition. Mr. Vinton, on one occasioD, went several
days' journey among Karen villages, ^thout servant or food.
Every where they killed for him their best fowls, and. spread
before him rice, fruits, honey, and whatever tbey had, and gave
tim their best place to sleep.

58 BUUIAB.

Among that portion of the Karens lying contiguous to Maul-
main, Mr. Vinton is the only laborer. There are in this province
three churches — 1st, At Ko Chet-thing's viUage, on the Salwen
River, two days above Maulmain ; thirty-seven members, five or
six inquirers, Ko Chet-thing pastor: 2d, A*etm22e, on the Di»-
gaing River, three days from Maulmain ; twenty-eight memben^
Ko Tau-pau pastor : 3d, Boo-tah, on the River Attaran ; thirty-finir
members, Ko Taunah pastor. The station at Chummeraii haa
been abolished by the removal of all the people. The place is
no longer inhabited. This part of the mission to the Karens
has five valuable native assistants, including the three pastors
just named, besides several young members of the church, in
training, who give evidence of being called to the minisdy.
One hundred and . twenty-three persons have been baptized
inalL

When the amount of labor which has been bestowed on this
portion of the Sgau Karens is considered, these results will
appear exceedingly encouraging. Miss Cummings went to
Chummerah to acquire the language, but died before she was
able to speak it Mr. Judson commenced this department of the
mission, and resided among the people a few months. He, how-
ever, retired thither chiefly to be undisturbed in translating, and
devoted but a small part of his time to direct missionary labor.
Mr. and Mrs. Vinton came out in December, 1834 ; and their time,
of course, has been almost wholly occupied in getting the lan-
guage. They have already made a beginning in proclaiming
^e gospel, but much of their time will still have to be spent in
study. They are now the only laborers among this people ; and
six months of the year they must leave these in&nt churches,
and retire from the jungle to their new station on Balu Island.
The past dry season, they visited them each, and, passing up the
Un-za-len River, twelve days from Maulmain, estabhshed several
schools in important villages. They hope to be able to reside
on this island during the rains, continuing the itinerant system
in the dry season.

The festivities which usher in the new year (commencing at
the April new moon) have, for several days past, kept the town
excited. Before every Burman house is erected a slight bamboo
palisade, six or eight feet long, decorated very tastefully with
young palm-trees, and pots of water, filled with various beauti-
ful blossoms. The moistened streets send up an enlivening
fi^shness, which, with the odors of the flowers, makes the street
like a charming avenue in a garden. The absurd yet amusing

■ WATER FESTIVi

^B oereniony (o wbir.h Uieso are preparaliona seemg peculiar to
*■ ftinoanp. It is a general war of water. Every one is at liber^
U wet his neighbor, but the compliineut is chiefly paid bf
miinen to men, and men to women ; the children taking the
jriucipal ehare of the buauiecis into their haiida. I have juit
hen riding along the principal streets to witneaE the weae ; but
me oSered to compliment me, or other Ibreigncrs, with A'
bowl of water. They know Ihat foreignerB, whose raiment ia
30 easily changed, do not relish ifae aport; though Bometimes,
flut of ill-timed complaisance, they submil to iL Almost un>-
nnally the people take it pleasantly ; but occasionelly J saw little
ftllowB chased and overthrown in the dirt, who played off on
. It certaiidy requires some command of temper, to show
entire nonchalance when the children project a forcible stream
fiom large bamboo syringes directly into the eyes and ears,
creeping up slyly for the purpose, and running off with exulta-
tion. Not a native is to be seen with dry clothes; but "holiday'
ck>tb(!s" on tbia occBEion are their poorest

No one can aeaigu any origin or signification to this custom.
It Berina as if it must bare originated in some notions of piuili'
cation from tlie sine of the old, and entering cleansed upon tbo
new year; but Boodhists have no idea of the remission of sins,
in any way. Their only hope is to balance them with merit

Beside this harmless and merry custom, the religious celebcs-
tiona of several classes of foreigners have kept tlie town in con-
fusion for a formight past. The Chinese have just liiid Iheir
annual ceremonies in memory of deceased ancestors. Hearing,
a few momingH since, en uncommon din of great gonga and
other discordant instruments, I went to the veranda, and sew
the procession pass to the cemetery. It was a meagre affair as
to pomp, but doubtless quite as absurd as if it had been in their
o«m country. A succession of tables, borne, like biers, on men's
shoulders, were spread with hogs, goats, and poultry, roasted
whole, and various other eatables; the horrid music followed,
and a proceaeion \rith streamers, terminated by a man or two
with muskets, filing at short intervals. A priest, in proper cos-
tume, walked on each nde of the tables.

Nothing can exceed the revolting exhibitions made by the
Hindoo Mii8st:lm8D8, who also are now holding their annual feast
of Hohumim. By nature almost black, they make themselves
enthely so with paint ; many of them adding blotches and hid-
eous figures, not only on their &ce8, but on every part of their body,
tnd of evety colored earth they can find. Some go further, and

6Q BUBMAB,

put on masks of infernal ugliness, with horns, snouts, and inde^
acribable distortions. I never beheld them but with fresh horrari
Moving about the streets in companies, they writhe every musde,
some throwing their arms about as if ready to attack every one
they meet, others slapping long, flat sticks together ; some beat-
ing on drums, and pieces of brass, others filling the air with yelhi
and clamor. Man could not more brutify himself even in the
madness of intoxication.

These three ceremonies are, perhaps, pretty fiur specimens of
the habits of the three nations of idolaters. Surely they fumisli
no ground for the boast of the infidel, as to the purity and noble^
ness of human nature, evinced by pagans whose morals have
not been contaminated by Europeans.

Desirous of seeing the people, as much as possible, in their
own retired villages, where foreign influence is unknown, and of
ascertaining the numbers, locality, &c. from personal obeervar
tion, I occupied the latter part of April in making two excursions
into the interior; one up the Dagaing, and the other up the Sal-
wen River. In the first, Mrs. Judson accompanied me, and in the
last and longest, Mr. J. himself We slept generally in the
boat, stopping at shady villages to cook our food, distribute
tracts, &c.

The whole region immediately above Maulmain is aUuvial;
the rocks chiefly blue limestone of excellent quaUty. The coim-
try is flat, fertile, and beautifiil, but, though once populous, is
now thinly inhabited. The scenery is rendered romantic and
peculiar by small mountains, rising abruptly from the level fields
to the height of four, five, and six hundred feet; the base scarce-
ly exceeding the size of the summit In most parts, trees and
shrubs cling to the sides ; but here and there the castellated and
perpendicular rocks project above the foliage, like the turrets
of some huge ruined tower. On the summits of many of them,
apparently inaccessible to human feet, Boodhist zeal has erected
pagodas, whose white forms, conspicuous far and near, remind
the traveller every moment that he surveys a region covered
vnth the shadows of spiritual death. Some of the smaller of
these hills I ascended. My heart sickened as I stood beside the
dumb gods of this deluded people, looking down and around on
a fine country, half peopled by half-civilized tribes, enjoying but
half the blessings of their delicious climate, borne by whole
generations to the chambers of death. They eat, and drink, and
die. No inventions, no discoveries, no attainments, no enjoy-
ments, are theirs, but such as have descended to them age by age ;

nEItASKABl.E CAFES. fil

Md nothing is left ID prove Ihey liave been, bill tlieir decajod
pagodas, iriissLapeo goda, uod iinlilesseil graves.

MoEl of these mountoiDs coolaiii cdvos, some of them voiy
large, which njipear W have been, from lime in i memorial, epa-
riftUy deVDled lo religious piirpoaes. The wealth and labor be-
Moived oil iheae are of Ibemiielves sufficient to prove how graal
ibe pa])u]Btii>D has been In former agea. 1 visited, in tboaa
txcursioiia, three of the moai remarkable — one on the Dab
C^ieng, nnd two on the Salwen. They diifered only in extent,
nd ill IliP apparent Biitiqiilly of the idols they contaiued. Hugs
Kdactites descended almost to the Boor in tnoiiy places, while, id
■ftere, stalagmites of various magnitudes and fanisetic shapea
wm formed upon the floor. In each, the bata occupied the lofty
itc««seB of the ceiling, dwelling in deep and everksting twilight.
la Due they eeemed innttmerable. Their ordure covered Iha
bottom, in aoiue places, to llie depth of many le«t. Throwing up
iDioe li-ngnionta of idols, we disturbed their nooti-tlde sliimbeti^
•lid the effect was prodigious. The flutter of their winga
created a trembling or pulsalioD in the air, like that produced
bf tlie deepest base of a great oi^gan. In the duak of the even-
■g, tliey issue from the cave in a Iliick column, which extends
mibrDken for miles. The natives all aflirmed this to be tlie cesa
wntj evening ; and Mr. Judaon himself when here witli lUfyor
Cnwiiird and otliers, saw the almost incredible fact •

Thta cavB has evidently been long deserted, except that a mi,-
glc large image ai the entrance ia kept in repair, Imfore which
"erp Boirie recent offorings. 1 might, therefore, have easily
ubiaiiied images tijr my iVieiiils i liui, .llr. J. bi'iiiir nlhiiii nf an
injunouB influence on the native Christians who were with ua, I
abelBioed, and afterward obtained a supply by regular purchase.
The last one we visited is on the Salwen, about fifteen or
twenty miles above Haulmun. The entrance is at the bottom
of a perpendicular but uneven (ace of the mountain, enclosed
b a strong brick wall, which forms a large vestibule. The eiw
trance to this enclosure is by a paih, winding along the foot of
the mountain ; and notliing remaricable strikes the eye till one
passes the gate, where the attention is at once powerfully ar-
rested. Not only is the space williin the wall filled with images
of Gaudama of every size, but tlie whole &ce of the mountain,
to the height of eighty or ninety feet, is covered with them. On
every jutting cng stands some marble image, covered wiih gold,
and spreading its uncouth proportions to the setting sun. Every
lEcess ie converted into ahrines for otbera. The smooth surfaces

63 BUKIEAIL

are covered by small flat images in burnt clay, and set in stucco.
Of these last, there are literally thousands. In some places, they
have fallen off, with the plaster in which they were set, and left
spots of naked rock, against which bees have built their hives
undisturbed. No where in the country have I seen such a dis-
play of wealth, ingenuity, and industry. But imposing as is this
spectacle, it shrinks to insignificance, compared to the scene which
opens on entering the cavern itself It is of vast size, chiefly in
one apartment, which needs no human art to render it sublime.
The eye is confused, and the heart appalled, at the prodigious
exhibition of infatuation and folly. Every where, on the floor,
over-head, on the jutting points, and on the stalactite festoons of
the roo^ are crowded together images of Gaudama — the ofier-
ings of successive ages. Some are perfectly ^ded ; others in-
crusted with calcareous matter ; some fallen, yet sound ; others
mouldered ; others just erected. Some of these are of stupen-
dous size ; some not larger than one's finger; and some of all the
intermediate sizes ; marble, stone, wood, brick, and clay. Some,
even of marble, are so time-worn, though sheltered of course
from changes of temperature, that the face and fingers are ob-
literated. In some dark recesses, bats were heard, and seemed
numerous, but could not be seen. Here and there are models
of temples, kyoungs, &c., some not larger than a half bushel, and
some ten or fifteen feet square, absolutely filled with small idols,
heaped promiscuously one upon another. As we followed the
paths which wound among the groups of figures and models,
every new aspect of the cave presented new multitudes of
images. A ship of &ve hundred tons could not carry away the
half of thenL

Alas! where now are the successive generations whose
hands wrought these wonders, and whose hearts confided in
these deceits ? Where now are the millions who came hither to
confess their sins to gods that cannot hear, and spread their vain
oblations to him that cannot save ? The multitudes ai'e gone,
but the superstition remains. The people are left like the glean-
ings of the vintage, but the sway of a senseless, hopdless system
is undiminished. Fewer bow in these dai*k recesses, but no
better altars witness holier devotions. May we not hope great
things from the effect of a full toleration secured by the present
rulers, and a full tide of missionary eflfort set forward by
American churches? Thanks be to God that a Christian
nation rules these provinces, and a Christian community sends
forth light and truth. Happy and auspicious is the mental dawn

V Mgiiu to break '. May ChriEtiaDs proy it iiito pec-
bet day.

On the third day ailcr Icaviug Maulnuiin, we arrived at tha
noirij-Iormed Cliriatiaa viilugc of wliicli Ko Chet-tliing, bo well
Iwrni ID Anieiica, ia pastor. It uumliers ns yet but thiiteen
bouses, of wbich most of the ailulls urc Kareu diBcijiles, drana
lOgellier to enjoy the meona of mutual edilicution. Thirty-niaB
members coustitule llie churcb, aiid otliera ore about lo reuiOTn
(hither. Few of the gi'eat effects produced al Mata are yet vki- .
ble here ; but religion liss already placed tbia little band fav
iboTe tlieir wouderiug bretlu'eu iu loaiiy reepecta. At least, it
baa saved ttieir eoula 1 Did it leave tbcm iu all Iboir destitution
of CDmfbrt and refineuieot, the deficicQcy, when compared to
the gain, would be a grain of sand, — -to tbe universe!

Mr. Vinton was absent on a preaching tour up the river. Mr&
Tuiton received us with a bearty welcome, and the disciples
iTere not bebliid iu paying tlieir cordial respects My luteijded
visit had been announced to ihcm a fortniglit ago, and a cburch-
rtieetiug and communion season appointed, gome Christians
iToin other villages bad arrived, and others kept emerging from
the jmigle all day. 8everal brought presents of eggs, plantains,
boiiey, ficc, aad the occasion evidently possessed in tlieir minds
great iuterest A number of serious inquirers and hopeful coit'
verts pn'scnted tbemselves. Several, who bad for some inontba
given evi(iellc^e of a Bpiritiinl change, nsked iKijilism, mul tbe
evening was spent in warm devotional exercises. We lodged in
little rooms partitioned off at the end of tbe chapel, and moat of
those wbi) came tiom a distance lodged iu the building. It was
truly refreshing to bear them conversing, till a late hour, on tbe
things of the kingdom. As one after another at length grew
sleepy, be engaged in private prayer in a low tone of voice, and
stretched himself for repose on tbe clean bamboo floor. Tbe
voice of prayer was in this manner kept up till midnight.

Next morning, we had a church -meeting, at which, among
other business, three candidates for baptism were received.
Some others were deferred Ibr the present The nide-looking
assembly [lately so rude indeed, and so ignorant of eternal
things) transacted their bitsmess with much order and great cor-
rectness of judgment. Now, and several times before, I ad-
dressed them bfiicially, through Mr. Judson, e^iamining into their
degrees of religious knowledge, and leaving them various in-
junctions relating both to temporal and eternal things. In tbe
sftemoon, we met again, and, after religious exercises, walked in

64 BURMAH.

procession to the water side, where, after singing and prayer, I
baptized tlie candidates in the name of the Holy Three. The
river was perfectly serene, and the shore a clean sand. One of
those lofty mountains which I have described rose in isolated
majesty on the opposite shore,* intercepting the rays of the set-
ting sun. The water was perfectly clear, the air cool and fra-
grant, the candidates calm and happy. All was good May that
lonely mountain often, often echo with the baptismal hynm and
the voice of prayer. Next morning, we had the Lord's supper,
and departed, amid the tears and prayers of these lovely children
of the forest

How blessed and golden are tliese days to Burmah ! Men love
to mark the glorious sunrise. Painters copy it; poets sing it;
all derive plecisure and elevation as they gaze while it blazes up
the heavens, turning to gorgeous purple every dull cloud, gilding
the mountain tops, and chasing the mists fi*om the valley. God
seems present, and creation rejoices. But how much more glori-
ous is the dawn I am permitted here to witness I All the ro-
mance which swells the bosom of the sentimentalist, gazing on
early day, is coldness and trifling, compai*ed to the emotions a
Chiistian may cherish when he sees the gospel beginning to en-
lighten a gi*eat nation. Surely we may hope such is tlie case
here, and that the little light which has invaded this empire of
darkness will issue in perfect day. I see a dim twilight ; others
will rejoice in the rising sun, and others in the meridian day. O
Lord, come with thy great power. Inspire the churches to do
all their duty, and prepare all people for thy truth.

I have now seen much of the Karens, and gathered what
information there is respecting them, which will be introduced,
with notices of other tribes, in a subsequent chapter.

The city of Maulmain was only a few yeai-s ago a Jungle,
though some intelligent natives affirm that it was once a large
city, and the metropolis of a Shyan kingdom, then independent.
After the cession of these provinces to the English, it was select-
ed as a military post, and a town s])rang up, which has continu-
ally increased, and numbers now 18,000 souls. The rest of
the province contains about 30,000 more, of whom some thou-
sand are Karens and Toungthoos. The city consists principally
of one street, which extends along the river about two and a
half miles. The river is about a mile wide, with a tide of
twenty feet perpendicular rise. In the rear, distant about a
quarter of a mile, is a long, narrow hill, running parallel to

* Contaiiiing also a cavern filled wilh idols, which, however, I had not time
to visit.

[he river, presentiiig nlong its Biimmil a striog of pogodaa
Diestlj' fallea lo ruin. Fniin a fiiio roail, made bcro by Sir A.
Campbell, the whole city, wilJi the river, siiippUig, oiid high
MUs on the opposite ieluud of Bdu, are iu fiill view. Tlie
■ccompanying picture is taken from tite suuiniitof the liill. The
distance is too great to allow of distinctness in sketching the town.
The Jorge house near the centre ia tlie residence of the gor*
emor. The mission premises are close to the rivor, nearly over
the heads of the two soldiers, who sit on the summit of the hill,
near the point from whence the view was taken. Ou the ex-
treme right is tlie city ofMartatmc, with its conspicuous pugoda.
The location of the city has been found exceedingly solubrioue,
ud gentlemen in the Company's aervioe are gliul to resort
hither (or heaitb, from the oppoute shore of the Itny of BeugaL
The eettlement is too recent to be adorned willi noble ebade-
trees, like Tavoy and Mergui, but is well laid out, and the Bur-
mans, always tasteful in such mutters, have plunted them to k
sufficient extent. Over the water-courses are liaiideioine bridges
<£ substantial masonry ; and fine roads ore made, and being
Dade, in various direetioua.

Being the metropolis of British Bitrmah, the commissi^
uting governor resides here. The gniriaon c^onsi!^t« of
ment of the line, n detachment of artillery, and some con , _
ufBcpoya. The officers of this force, and tlie gentlemen coimecb
ed with the civil service, make a coiLsiderable cirelo of English
society, which, with soldiers, iradert*, &c., luij their lainiiiee, in-
sure all the conveniences of an abundant market, various me-
chanics, and well-supplied shops. In the market may always he
had fresh bee^ pork, goat, venison, and poultry, butter, egga,
milk, &&, with great plenty of the finest fish, fhiits, and vegeta-
bles. In passing through it one day, I counted tliirty-two differ-
ent kinds of fhiit, besides vegetables. The price of articles, with
some exceptions, is cheaper than in our cities, — fowls, two ru-
pees a dozen ; rice, half a rupee a bushel. 'The best of bakers'
wheat-lH^ad is sold at about our rates, and British goods are in
genera] cheaper than with us. On the whole, it is perliaps ta
pleasant and desirable a residence as any part of the East.

On coirmterce and trade there are no restrictions. Vessels
pay no tonnage, and merchandise no duty. Even pilotage is es-
tabhslied at low rates, and such as choose to dispense with a
pilot, pay only a srnall sum, for the benefit of the buoys. Ship
and boat building, on Englisli and native models, is done to the
ugtnmt of sotne tliousand tons per annuni.

The importB fifHn Ti:voy and Mergid are prindpolly att^M|«r
deniiees, (leaves sdtched upon stripe of ratao, ready for thatch*
uig,) damar torches cardamoms, eapan wood,f;iiapee, ratana, pro-
served dor^ans, mats, salt, yams, and ivory. In return are sent to
these places cotton, oil, English goods, paddy, bee^ lime, and
tamarinds.

From Rangoon are imported cutch or catechu, stick lac^
gram, oil-seed, earth-oil, sesamum-oil, lappet, (tea,) wheat, iv<»y,
lackered ware, glazed pottery, jaggery, (black sugar,) Burman
Bilks, tamarinds, chillies, garlic, &c ; and in return are sent arec&-
nuts, cotton, dates, English goods, cocoa-nuts, &c

From Penang are brought umbrellas, muskets, torches, datefl^
coflee, &c. ; and in return are sent chiefly paddy and rice.

From Calcutta are brought specie, English goods, wines, gin-
ger, steel, rose-water, sugar ; and abnost the only important return
is teak timber. The same may be said of Madras. This is about
the whole commerce of Maulmain. From eight to twelve ves-
sels enter and clear per month.

Among the inhabitants are 500 Chinese, and above 2,000 other
foreigners, most of whom are fix>m Bengal and Madras. Each
class lias a place of worship, and adheres to its national costume
and habits. The English have a Company's chaplain, and a
capacious church. Here service is regularly performed, and the
troops arc required to attend. The English Baptist church have
also a good meeting-house of teak, and one of the missionaries
always acts as pastor. At present, Mr. Osgood discharges this
duty, in connection with his engagements at the printing-office.

Though there is not the slightest restraint upon idolatry in
these provuices, the people are certainly less devoted to their
8upei*stition than before the war. It is scarcely possible to dis-
cover, from the appearance of the streets, when the worship-days
occur ; and the number of priests is much less than it would be
among an equal population in Burmah Proper. The people are
evidently ri{)ening for some change. There is therefore eminent
necessity for following up, with the utmost vigor, the means for
extending Christianity. The morals of the people would greatly
suffer by the loss of their religious system, if no other were to be
substituted. Such a crisis is not altogether improbable, and the
people of God are most aflTectingly called upon, by the state of
the case, to send out more teachers forthwith.

Still, Boodhism is as yet by no means a neglected sys-
tem. New pagodas are making their appearance in different
parts of the city. There are twenty-nine kyoungs, containing

>TATE OF BOODHISK. G7

nnwwiiat more tlion 500 prieeis, including novitiates, who are
' ptendfttllj- supported. The kjoungs are vastly superior to the
dnellinga of the commoD people, and some of them are situated
D deligfatflil groves ivitfa ample grounds. Here iind there is a
acred baiiuian-tree, carefully nurtured, and occasionally lighted
with lamps ut night In the city aud suliurba are seventy-eight

My evening walks with Mr. and Mrs. Judson, \vere upon the~
hills, and near the principal of these [lagodaa. The osount is
&tiguiug, though part of the way is facilitated liy brick etairs 13
or 15 leet wide. The pugodo, aa usual, is entirely solid. Arotmd
ill base are smaller ones, and numerous shrines built of brick
nicely stuccoed, like little temples, from the size of o large doy-
house up lo the size of a small dwelling. Within and around
ibese are images of Gaudatna, precisely like the pictures of him
common iu Americji, generally well gilL Little paper flags, &c
&C. are bebre them, — the offerings of the devoiiL Tall llag-
etafls are numerously planted on the crown of the hill, with
variouE streamers, eooio of which are tasteful aud eleganL

A large and substantial house stands beside the pagoda,
trierally tilled with images of Gaudama, most of them of coloeeal
axe. These are made of brick, with a thick coating of plaster,
periectly smooth, and resembling marble. Tliere are some
hundreds of these, all in perfect repair, many of them ap[>aretnly
placed there by these deceived idolaters, quite lately. The num-
ber continually increases. One of these images is iu n re-
cumbent posture, and must be at least forty feet long. Some
of the images represent worshippers, in a most reverent attitude,
before ceriain figures.

While walking among tliese distressing evidences of folly and
misery, wo oflen saw scenes like the following : — -A poor man
struggled up the hack part of the mountain with a httle child
on his hip, less than three yeai's old, plucking a few gi'een twigs
&om Ilie bushes as he passed. He went up to a great bell,
suspended in tlie area, and, taking a deer's horn lying on the
ground for the piu'pose, struck it twice or thrice. Then, rev-
erently entering the image-house, he pronlratcd himself; and
taught bis little one to do the same, which it did so readily ob
to make it certain it was not its first attempt He then prayed
with the ]iBlms of his hands placed together, and raised to hia
forehead, while the poor little babe lisped out some of the name
worda. At the conclusion, he walked up to the idol he had

addieawd, and laid before h, witfa greal wnlwinntty, his offbrii
of green leavei^ and, taking op the babey descended ti

Q ye parents, wbo take no pains to leacb your little ones
adore, and trust, and serve the etunal God, be reproved ai
abashed! That poor idolater may ocxifiont and condemn ji
, at tlie last awful day! y

Tliank CSod, the gospel is slowly extending its happy eo
quests in tliis place. Two very respectable people a^yf^M I
Imjitism last Lord's day, and many are persuaded that Bood
iff f lo CJifxL A hundred Christians hold forth the truth, and
teeming press presents to the people the divine testimony. B
wo must pray for the Spirit's influence. May not this be oi
chief deficiency?

The miHsion here was established by Mr. Boardman with d
first Mettlerncnt of the town by the British in 1827. Mr. Judac
csrno in a few montlis, and Mr. Boardman left the place
crirntriitrirf) tiie station at Tavoy. It is now the principal pol
\\\ our tniHsioti, luiving the printing-K>ffice, five houses for mi
siunaricH, nri English chapel, a large teak-wood zayat, and smal
fir /nynts \\\ (lifFerent parts of the town. Belonging to d
Ktntiori uro Mr. Judson, Mr. Hancock, Mr. Osgood, and Mr. Bei
nutt. 1*ho Inttor iH wholly engaged in teaching an English big]
M<*hool for tiutive <*Jiildren, and is nearly supported by the salai
lUlowitd by the Company.

Thii printing-oflico is of brick, two stories high, 136 feet Ion
by US widi}. It iH in tlio form of an J , so that the picture, whic
WfiN tiiki^tt from Mr. Judson's veranda, shows only a part
contnitiH four hund-prcsses, and a power-press, equal to tvf
more ; twelve small founts of English type, one of Burma
one of Knron, mid one of Taling. For these last, there ai
puru^hoH and matrices complete, so that they may be cast ane
at nny time. The exi)en80 has, of course, been enormous, thei
Ijeing nlH)ut one tliousand matrices for the Burman fount alon
A new M5t of punches and matrices has just been ordered fi
tiie Burmun cluu'acter on a size reduced one third. The upp<
rooms of the office are devoted to a bindery, storage, &c Tl
capabilities of the bindery are fully equal to tlie work of tl
printing-ofllco. Every part of the labor, in printing and bindin,
la perfonnod by natives ; of whom, on an average, 25 are coi
gtantly employed.

The natire chureli under Mr. Judson's care has mora than a
lumdred members. Some sixteeD or eighteen are valuable
UBistants, of whom a Jiart are generally employed at other
ndon& Such 03 are employed here, meet Mr. Judson eveij
meaning at eunriee, aod give an account of tfaeir labors dim'
tag the previoiia doy, often rehearsing the rerj' eonvensationa.
Au excellent opportunity is thus obt^ned for eoltirgiiig and reeli-
ng their viewa, and giving them helpful ideas in particular
cases. <>n Sunday, the congregation consists of but few beside
the church-members. If any attend tiiree or four Sundays, they
we pronounced disciples by their fiiends, and indeed generally
become so.

Scarcely more direct missionary labor is expended on this ci^
than on Tavoy. Mr. Hancock is uotyetsufficiently master of the
language to be able to preach, and Mr. Osgood has of course
made still less advance. Nor do the printing-office labors of
these brethren allow them to devote much time to study. Mr.
Judson has been so much engrossed with revising the translation
of the whole Old Testament, and proof-reading, for several years,
■B to be wholly prevented from laboring puhUcly either in the
zayal or from house to house. Mr. Bennett is confined to the
ichool, the labors of which are truly arduous. Thus this great
city, with nominally four miEBlonaries, has no evangehcal labor
done for it, except by the na

Mrs. Hancock has under her care two mIiooIb^ containiiig
together twenty-five scholarB^ a few of them femaki^ which she
examines monthly. One of the teachers is a disciple. It is yrerj
conmion for the pupils to he withdrawn after a while, sometimes
even before they learn to read. All are required to attend wcmt-
ship on Lord's days, and are both then and at other times in-
structed in religion. From four to eight of the scholars are
8U])ported by the mission, at an expense of about three rupees a
mouth. One of these schools has been in existence three years^
and during that time six of the scholars have passed from death
unto life. The other school is but of four months' standing.

Mrs. Osgood* has two schools for girls, which contain together
nineteen scholars. One of the teachers is a Christian. Chris-
tian instruction is imparted very much as in the boys' schools.
None of the pupils are boarded at present One of these
schools has existed ten months ; the other has just now gone into
operation. No conversions have taken place.

Mr. Bennett's school is large and flourishing. He possesses a
happy talent in imparting instruction, and the stated examinations
abundantly attest his diligence. The English language ifi the
principal object, and many of the pupils have made surprising
proficiency.

The labor which has been bestowed on schools at this station
shows little fiiiit There are, however, a few pupils, who, having
long attended, are obviously elevated by the processy/^ give a
specimen of the composition and spelling of one who was a
scholar of Mrs. Boardman's in 1830, and is now a pupil in Mr.
fieiuiett's school, and a promising member of the church. It is a
letter to one of tlie missionaries in Tavoy, and is given as he
wroU U in English, literatim. The penmanship is beautifuL

" Maulmein, February 15, 1830.
** Tour young brother Moung Bwah, sends to you benevo-
lence, love, and in the faith, grace, mercy, and peace from God oar
Father, and Jesus Christ our Lord. Because of God, love, and benevo-
lence, my soul and body are well. I am still in Maulmein, ever learn-
ing wisdom and instruction of the teacher. I endeavor to follow the
teacher's words, and learn my lessons with deligence, and not to be
idle. I pray Jesus Christ for you and your's, neighbour. Pray you to
God for me ; 1 with respect beg you to. Through the Saviour, Lord
Jesus Christ's mercy, I am quite still in God's commandment.
" All who love the Lord Jesus Christ's glory, hope in our way. This

* Mrfi. 0«f|^ood died of consumption, Oct. 5, 1837; having been less than
Uiree years in the country.

tOtld b [ike H «ri)d taland, wiQi ma

Biiiour JesuB, lo tave us, camft from the Pathcr'i nearnesi with the

me-iAip, tliat we poor ainnet might be lared. But me crecj da;

lupe in God'D meiaj, uid desire a gcolk and quite mind.

"Before time, first mau Adaui,Ctiit womiui Eve, two persoiu sinned.
We have all gone out of the way, we ere together become nuprofit-
A, tliere is acoe that doeth good, no, not one, wlien we trust in
Jems, we all ride the aace-ahip, and free from sin, and wild animal's
farm. That nearness ta the Lord, free us from banii, and make uf
^te and liappf. Then we 3te near the Lord, and worship with re-
^l. God's mercy on me that I may grow wiser in good wisdom,
ny elder sister, if God give me permission, you will again see tne, thiMi
lAouM be verj glad.

"Tour Bfiectionately,

"MODSQ Bwiu." i

Engiisfa influence, in a vmiely of wnys, improvee ibe temporal
wndltion of these provinces. It hos abolialied those border \ran,
Khjcb kept this people and their neighbors continually wretched.
None but tho<« faituliar with tlie country can describe the evils
produced by a Burman war. Tlie troojjs are drawn from the
[cmolest provinces, and, as they march, iaborere, stores, money,
boats, and callte, are taken without compensBtion. They have do
lealB, no pay, no regular rations, and suffer every sort of hardship.
Erary whore, as thay go, the people fly into the jungle ; and such
iwperty as [■atmot be carried away is plundered without restraint
Poverty and distress are thus Bpreail over the whole kingdom,
even l^- a petiy border conflict. Of course, at the seal of ivar,
fwn evil irf ningiiificd a liumbiid fold. The modi' of rai.-ing
iroopa 18 the worst possible. Eacfi chief is required to ftimiBh
so many, and is sure to get rich by the operation. He calls first
upon tliose who have money, and suffers them to buythemselves
ofi^ taking finally only those who have no money. So, if he
want boats, the richer boatmen pay a bribe and gel off, and the
poorer must go. So with carts, and, in fact, every thing. The
suppression of war cuts off a large portion of the chances for

In the Tenosaerim provinces, various improvementB are per-
ceptible. Coin is getting introduced instead of mames of lead and
silver; manu&ctures are improving; implements of improved
construction ere used; justice is better admioistered ; lije is
sectire ; property is sacred ; religion is tree ; taxes, though heavy,
are more equitably imposed ; end courts of justice are pure,
generally. Formerly, men were deterred from gathering round
them comforts superior to their neighbors, or building better

hotwefl, for fear of ezEictionB. Now, being secure in their eaminga,
the newly-built houses are much improved in uze, material%
and voibnanship. There are none of those traps and trammels
which embairasa courts in England and America. The pre-
nding officer in each province, Amherst, Tavoj, and Mergui,
aita aa magistrate on certain days every week ; and before him
ereiy citizen, male or female, without the intervention of law-
jers, may plead his cause, and have immediate redress. Every
where, in British fiurmah, the people praise English justice ; but
they are not yet reconciled to regular taxatioii. Though the
Burman government, or its oppressive agents, took from them
more than they pay now, yet it was occasional ; consisted chiefly
in labor, and they vrare not imder the necessi^ of saving any
thing against a certain day — a matter to which they have been
altogether unaccustomed.

Presuming that my readers vrould be glad to eea Mr. Judaon'a
retndence, and desirous of giving a specimen of the houses of
our Burman missionaries, I made a drawing, which is given in
a reduced size below. It contains three good-sized rooms and
two small ones. It is built precisely like the natives' houses, only
larger and bettor, and cost about three hundred dollars. All
our Burman missionanes use similar ones. During my pleasing
residence with this great and good man, the small room on die
extreme left was my chamber, and the large one, with two littie
fir-trees under the windows, my study. The centre room is
the diniug-ball, and the ikrlheat one Mr. J.'s chamber. His
study is a large apartment partitioned off from one end of the
chapel. The kitchen, or "cook-house," is always a small, sepa-
rate building.

CHAPTER IV.

Pejiiilalioii dT Kangcton ; Commerui Pricei orLiving — ShooilagOa Pagndi

— Slnvei of the Pagoda — Sourise Wonlup ~ Riiitiy Mgnioon — Hisioij
oTlbeMusiDn — Muibee — Labor or Native Aniilanta — lniereaLingCus
~ Voyage lo Pegu — Evidenrei of former GreiUim — SbuomailuD Pigoda

— Voyage np iho IrTswaddy — Boau — Mode of Fiihing — Prome —
Leper Village — GoihIbbib's Fool — Buonsn Eaergj — Earth-oil Wells —
Sbyao Caravan — Ruins of Paghsn — AiLempI 10 buy Beef— BuffalO-
Henlmen — Caiimiij oT Pialires — Toddy — AirivBl at A»a.

On the 14th of May, the sad hour oT bidding adieu to the dev
imssionarieH and tlieir iuleresting disciples arrived; and I em-
baj-ked for Rangooii. Every day hod increased my regard for
tbem, ood tlic probniiility of seeing them no more made the last
few day a truly gorrowfuL

The change of the tnonsoon, which now takes place, is often
accoinpauied with sevpre equalls; but these coasting veasela
bave little fear of them, and never lay up on lliat accounL
Often the season {Misses without any tliat are iMrious, as it hu
tliia year. We had two or Cliree fturrios, with rain ; but they
helped us on poweriully,and the 17th (of May) found mo at Rai>~
goon, witltoiit ncridenl. The enlrnnce of the river, tlioiif-h six
miles wide, is difficult to find, the channel very narrow, and tfaa
coBBt very ehottl for a great distance above and below ; while a
perfectly flat shore, scarcely above high tides, gives the marinor
no certain land-marks, lliere are no pilots to be had, but hj
sending a boat to the city. On one point is a cluster of trees,
which has been called "the elephant," from a fended resem-
blance to that animal ; but my imagination was too dull to dis-
cern much shape. The sands have extended some miles to
the southward, since the coast was first surveyed.

Having passed the ordeal of the custom-house, without any
special vexations, I found Messrs. Webb and Howard, with their
wives, in usual health, and received from them a kind and cor-
dial reception.

The name of Rangoon is so conspicuous in the annals of ow
mismon, and occurs so often in the narratives of travellers on this
coast, that I naturally entered it with feelings of peculiar interest
Association of ideas, of course, keeps up some of that interest j
but BO wretched a lotting town, of its size, 1 have nowhere seetL
Tou 1. 7

74 BUBllAH.

The city is spread upon part of a vast meadow, but little aboie
high tides, and at this season resembling a neglected swanili.
The approach from the sea reveals nothing but a few wooden
houses between the city wall and the shore. The fortificatkni
are of no avail against modem modes of attack. They coDMt
of merely a row of timbers set in the ground, rising to the beiglift
of about 18 feet, with a narrow platform running round inadB
for musketeers, and a few cannon, perhaps half a dozen in aD,
lying at the gateways, in a useless condition. Some consideitible
streets are back of the town, outside the walls. •

The entire population is estimated at 50,000, but that is prolii-
bly too much. There is no other seaport in the empire, but
JBassein, which has little trade, and the city stands next in im-
portance to Ava; yet there is litei^ly nothing in it that can in-
terest a traveller. A dozen foreigners, chiefly Monguls, li«?0
brick tenements, very shabby. There are also four or five smill
brick places of worship, for foreigners, and a miserable custom-
house. Beside these, it is a city of bamboo huts, comfortable fir
tills people, considering their habits and climate ; but in appear-
ance as paltry as possible. Maulmain has already many better
buildings. The eaves of the houses generally descend to within
six or eight feet of the ground ; very few being of more than
one story, or having any other covering than thatch. Cellars are
unknown, and all the houses are raised two or three feet above
the ground for coolness and ventilation. As the floors are of
split bamboo, all dirt falls through, and what is not picked up by
crows, dogs, fowls, &C., is occasionally swept out, and burned.
For nearly half the year, the city presents a most singular appear-
ance, half sad, half silly. By a standing law, on the setting in
of the dry season, all the thatch must be removed, except a par-
ticular kind, not common, made partly of split bamboo, which
will not easily bum. Were it not for the people in the streets,
and the cloths of various kinds put up in the houses to keep off
the sun, it would seem, at these times, like a city deserted.

The streets are narrow, and paved with half-burnt bricks^
which, as wheel-carriages are not allowed within the city, are in
tolerable repair. There is neither wharf nor quay. In four or
Ave places are wooden stairs, at which small boats may land
passengers ; but even these do not extend within twenty feet of
low- water mark. Vessels lie in the stream, and discliarge into
boats, from which the packages, slung to a bamboo, are lugged
on men's shoulders to the custom-house.

The commerce of the place is still considerable, though groat-

|)r crippled by eiu>niieue pon-K^liargeB, aud absolute prohi!
t exportiog rice or tlie )in-ciau8 mtiluk. t^jieuie
parted, but only by adroit siuu^gling- Could rice bo exjioned
freely, t most beneSciaJ trade, botli lo jjavcriimeut uxid peojilo,
migbt be carried on, tlie agricuhuriBt receive a bettor reward
Jgr Mb toil, and the price ol' laod be raised tluougliout ttie king'
doKL Fuddy is uow Belling at live rupees tbe liuiidrod baiikeia;
that is, about $^50 for a hundred buabels I

Tiie beat of cleaned ric« ie four aiiuas a basket — about twelve
owt3 a buebel ! Wbest, an good aa 1 Iiave ever seen. Id selling at
twen^ dollars per hundred buehets. Sucb prices would send
here balf the TeBsels in Bengal Bay. How strange tliat govem-
menls must always be doing damage, by dabbling ii
wfakb, if leA to theinHelvee, would pruDjier! — However, tlia'
policy IB certainly more wise tlian dial of Ureat Brilaiu, whlcli
1Mb some of her subjects aimually alarve, and others uonatantly
Hffir, by keeping bread-sluHs away.

Otber necessaries are equally cheap in Itaugoou — fowk, abouE
one dollar per dozen ; black tea, brought down Uie Irrawaddy
fiom China, twelve cenla a pound; ric«, one cent per pound.;
coffee, six cents per pound ) sugar, six ; bread, same as in Bastou ;
e^B, fitly cents per hundred; milk, forty- Uve cents pergallou;
wages, BIX dollars per month, without food or lodging; cU for i
cookjiig and lamps, filly cents per pound; woshini;, fuui' dollars
p(T hundred; fuel, about aevenly-tive cents per monlh. Ahuost
every kind of British manu^tures may be had in the bazar, at
latea not higher than they cost in Boston. Medicines are not
eaaly procured, and many kinda are excessively dear.

During the long wars of £urope, in the days of Napoleon,
many vessels were built here, chiefly by the English, amounting,
on an average, from 1790 to 1802, to three or foiu: thousand tons
per annum. At the time of Colonel Synunes's visit. In 1795, there
were seveial ships on the stocks, of from GOO to 1000 ton^
burden. This branch of bueiness is now almost annihilated.

Two miles from Rangoon is the celebrated pagoda, called
Shoo-da-gati. It stands on a small hill, surrounded by many
smaller pagodas, some fine zayats and kyoungs, and many noble
trees. The hill has been graduated into succesaive terraces, sus-
tained by brick walls ; and tlie sunm^it, which is completely lev-
elled, contains about two acres.

The two principal approaches from the city are lined on eadi
■ide,for a mi!e, with fine pagodua, some almost vieing for size with
Bboodagon itsel£ Tbese are in every state of repair; from

76 BUKIE^B.

beautiflil white new ones to mere grass-grown heaps. In most
of them the apertures still remain, through which the F.ngliah
soldiers penetrated, to take the treasure always deposited in them.
Even the great pagoda did not escape ; but it is so perfectly re^
paired, as to show no signs of the indignity.

Passing these on your way fix>m the city, you come to a flight
of time-worn steps, covered by a curious arcade of little houses
of various forms and sizes, one above another, some in partial
decay, others truly beautifuL After crossing some terraces, cov-
ered in the same manner, you reach the top, and, passing a great
gate, enter at once this sad but imposing theatre of Gaudama^
glory. One's first impressions are, what terrible grandeur ; what
sickening magnificence; what absurd imagery; what extrava-
gant expenditure ; what long successions of devotees to procure
this throng of buildings of such various dates ; what a poor re-
ligion that makes such labors its chief meritoriousness. Before
you stands the huge Shoodagon, its top among the clouds, and
its golden sides blazing in the glories of an Eastern sun. Around
are pompous zayats, noble pavements, Gothic mausoleums, un-
couth colossal lions, curious stone umbrellas, gracefiilly cylindri-
cal banners of gold-embroidered muslin banging from lofty pil-
lars, enormous stone jars in rows to receive offerings, tapers
burning before the images, exquisite flowers displayed on every
side, filling the air with fi'agi'ance, and a multitude of carved
figures of idols, worshippers, griffins, guardians, &c.

Always, in the morning, men and women are seen in every
direction kneeling behind their gift, and with uplifted hands reci-
ting their devotions, often with a string of beads counting over
each repetition; aged persons sweep out every place, or
pick the grass from the crevices; dogs and crows straggle
around the altars, and devour the recent oflerings ; the great bells
utter their frequent tones ; and the mutter of praying voices
makes a hum like the buzzing of an exchange. The whole scene
is so strange, so distressing, that one is relieved to stroll away
among the huge trees, and gaze from the parapet on the unlim-
ited scene around. Tt is one wide, flat jungle, without a single
hiU, but that of Syrian in the distance ; but it is nature. It is the
true temple of the true God ; the only representation he has given
of his natural perfections, as the Bible is of his moral ones. All
the rest is distortion, absurdity, and crime. Of inferior pagodas,
(though some surpass in size any I have seen elsewhere,) there
are, in Rangoon, more than five hundred, occupying as much
space as the city itself probably more. Most of them stand a

rtaooi. suVES — woRanprEKa. 77

linJe out of the chy, uiters|)«rBe<l with groves, embowering cosdy
l^oungs and commodious zayate, Tlio laller are partjculaj-ly
Dumeroug, to accoiiimodole tlie boBU of warBlu|iper« who rcaort
liither at certain eeuEonB of Ihe year.

In tlie vicinity of the liill are 130 faiiiUiea of " slavei of tim
pagoda," containing about two hundreil nieu, (uid, ae Itteir cliirf ■
told me, "plenty of women." They do not appear to be poor ov' i
deBpiaed, and tlieir quarter of the cily ia not dislinguished l>y aAJ> J
particular lealure. They becomo so, not idways bouiude afV«
crime, but often by merely incurring Ilie djafileasure of a great ■
man ; or he gives them as an acl of piet^~. Mo^I of tiieiii are m f
by birtli, tor ibe progeny of such pereons ure fureier in tbt
same coodltion. Thoy are Dot allowed lo marry, cuoein among
themselves.

J vMted the pagoda treijuenlly, about BunriMe, ua it i^ the only
direction in which one can ride. There were always twenty-tiva
or thirty worsbippere BcatLered up and down ; and ou the regutot
worship days, several hundred.
the cool of the nioraiug, remaining a
amounting, I was told, in tiie whole, t
' A few remam all day in the cool t
woi^ip, and spending ttie iutervald ol
Some, as an act of particular merit, et
are in official attendance, nor, indeed, did i ever see any tiien
perfomiicg their owii worship. The act of worship ia called
ihrt-ko, tlioiigh llie najiie is oAeu giveu to tliu mere acl of [iroa-
tration which accompanies it.

Every one brings a present, often a bundi of flowers, or only
a few green twigs, plucked on the way; but generally the nicest
eataUes ready cooked, beautiful biutches of flowera, articles of
raiment, &c The amount of o^rings here is very great Stone
TCses, some of which will hold fifty or sixty gallons, stand round
the pagoda, into wtuch the devotees carefully lay their leafy
phtes of rice, plantains, cakes, && As these are successively
filled, appointed persons fix>m among the pagoda slaves emp^
them into ttteir vessels, assorting the various kinds. The beauti-
fid flowers remain all night, and are swept out in the morning.
No one ever objected, however, to my gathering them at pleasure.
A gift once depodted is no more regarded. I have seen crows
and dogs snatch the gift ere the oflerer had well done bis
l»ayera, without the shadow of resistance being offered.

"Die reproof of Jehovah to Israel by the prophet often came
Hrongly to my mind as these crowds passed on with their

78 BURMAB.

beaiitifiil flowers, and the finest of the fruits of the earth. — <* She
did not know that 1 gave her com, and wine, and oil, and multi-
plied her silver and gold, which they prepare for Baal : therefime
I will take away my corn and my wine, and will recover nay
wool and my flax." Hosea iL 8, 9. How boundless the goodness
and forbearance of God ! ^ Will a man rob God ? Yet these rob
him of the tithes and offerings " bestowed on their senseless
images, and take kis fruits of the earth to do honor to the things
his soul abhors. I could not but feel, as 1 gazed upon the rich
landscape and bright heavens, and marked the joy of the young
men and/naidens as they passed on, that He who then forbore
would in his abundant mercy <<give them pastors after his own
heart, who shall teach them knowledge and understanding."

The rainy monsoon has been considered fairly set in, sinGO
the 10th of May, but it rains as yet generally only towards night,
and the weather is every way delicious ; every tree being ever-
green, a few showers bring forth all the beauties of midsummer.
Though the sun is nearly vertical, the clouds and showers so cool
the air, that the thermometer seldom rises above 86° or 87^ at
noon, and goes down to 80° before morning. 1 have now passed
the ordeal of the entire hot season ; and of nothing am 1 more
convinced, both from experience and observation, and especially
from the testimony of very many intelligent foreign residents, than
thiLt the climate is as salubrious and as pleasant as any other in
the world. I have suffered fi:t)m heat greatly more in Italy, and
even in Philadelphia, than I have ever done here, and have never
found a moment when I could not be perfectly comfortable by
sitting stilL To go abroad in mid-day, is, however, more intoler-
able, and, for any but natives, is eminently hazardous.

The mission to this city has had great disadvantages, and the
apparent results are at tlus time very smalL The first mission-
aries, who were English, chose a situation outside the town
near the pagoda, and erected a building far too sumptuous. One
afterward chose another field, and the other, another employment
The station was never effectively occupied till by Mr. Judson,
who, being without native assistants, without the language, with-
out tracts, without experience, and living in the same house, was
here many years before he began to make direct evangelical
efforts among the people. Part of this time was spent in acquir-
ing the Pali,* or sacred language of the Burmans, on which he
was erroneously led to place a high value. At length he was
able to preach, and some souls were won ; but scarcely had a

* Pronounced PaJi-Ue; accenting both syllables alike.

little church been gathered, befbre ibe war brohe out, in whicb
he sufiercd bo dreadfully, and which suependcd all miseiouary
effort, aud sctittored all the converts. At the close of ii, he did
Dot reEuiite his place in Rangoon, but proi^^ded to die provincea
ceded to England, where lie has remoiiied. The flower of the
church fbUowed him to Maulinsin.

From tliai linie there has never been a missionary stationed
here who could fully preach in Bunnan !

Mr. Wade was at the Htalion, a few months, in bo bad heallll
u 10 be thought near his end, and sailed for America. All the
others have spent tlieir time chiefly in study.

The Bpirit of persecution has never intermitted at Rangoon,
and the acta of it very seldom. Mr. Judson never had public
meetings of the church, either Ibr worship or busineEK, and tlia
disciplcB came to him privately. When Mr. and Mrs. Bennett
snempted to establish a school, an excitement was created, which
immediately Bcallered it. The master was ])iiblicly whipped)
and the old pastor, Ko Tha-a, was imprisoned and jiut into the
nocks, and released only by paying sixty rupees. Mr. and Mnb
Webb took the station two years ago, on the removal of Mr. Beu-
nett to take charge of the government free-school at Muulnuun.
Though ho had only mode a good beginniug lu tlie language,
yet, with the aid of the old pastor, and a native aat^istaut from
.Maulmain, lie Iwgan to look out and draw fiirtli ilii; very few
disciples who were now left, end to meet and act without con-
cealment. After a few months, and before any new conversions
occurred in the ci^, persecution was recommenced, which put a
Hop not only to the meetings, but all missionary effort. Mr.
Webb and ivife had gone to Haulmain ibr their health, and Mr.
Howard, who had been in the country but a few months, was left
hi charge of the station, when the troubles began. Ko San-
lone,* the preacher,(the old pastor has been deterred from public
labors since his sufierings,) was seized while preaching on the ve-
randa, and, though Mrs. II. procured from the woon-gyee an order
for his release, the inferior rulers refused to cKccute it, and at
last succeeded in incensing his mind also.. They demanded
Sanlone's death, and possibly might have procured it, had he not
been a Maulmain man, and of course a British subject Six or
eight Karens, who formed Mrs. H.'s school, and as many more
who Lad at that time visited Rangoon to receive baptism, were
Kized, punished in the slocks, and, after a week, sent away into
Ibe jungle. Search was made for disciples throughout the city,
* Aueni an last syllable.

80 BumitAH.

but none were detected. VariouBtortureB were inflicted <m Soi-
lone, to make him renounce hit fidth, and the imprearion throogfth
out the city was, that he would be put to death ; but after sevml
8um0 of money had been paid by his wife, he was at length turned
out, with chains on his legs, to work in the woon-gyee's yard.
After a time, by paying more than two hundred rupees, he mm
set at liberty, with the express iiy unction not to preach or
distribute tracts again in the jurisdiction of the woon-gyM^
From this time, none of the disciples durst stow themselves, ex-
cept the old pastor, Sanlone's wife, and a few more. No meeU
ings were held ; the people durst not come near the missionariee^
nor receive a tract, nor even engage as servants in their faniilie&
A poor woman who lock care of Mrs. Webb's child for a short
time, was fined fifteen rupees for so doing. After three or finir
months, the alarm subsided. The people now accept tracts, and
assistants fix>m Maulmain preach unmolested ; but no Rangoon
native Christian dares do it, or give tracts. The church cannot
be assembled ; but few members can be found at all ; and th«
church may almost be said to be extinct It is not probable that
any native would be allowed openly to confess that he had
changed his religion.

In the mean time, God has been carrying on his woi^ among
the adjacent Karens, particularly at Maubee, through the instru-
mentality of Ko Tha-byu.* Afany have been converted; the
old members, though fined upwards of six hundred rupees, and
surrounded by reproach and injury, continue steadfastly to avow
their faith, and keep up their meeting. Mr. Webb has bap-
tized about forty, who have come to Rangoon for that purpose ;
some of them since the persecution. Ko Tha-a has been out to
them, and baptized twenty-nine more ; and sixty or eighty are
now asking baptism. Within the past two months, they have
again been fined, and they are still greatly oppressed. Here
is certainly an example of fortitude and meekness worthy to
be recorded with those of early Christians. Six hundred ru-
pees could only be extorted from these miserable Karens by the
seizure of their entire substance. Many of them had not left a
bullock, or an jmplement to till the ground. The case fbmishea
an answer to such as ask evidence of the reality of a work of
grace on the hearts of our converts^ and should animate us to
jffnd the gospel to a people who so sincerely receive it

The native assistants who accompany me labor diligently, and
are greatly pleased with appearances so &r. The day after ani-

* Last sj^lable accented, and pronounced like u in imbue.

'•—-

UTEREIITINS USB. '^^H

ling, tbey spread nice mats on the porch under my window, and,
taldng their seats, with a pile of irar.ta beside them, eodq had
an audicuce. Tliey have continued tlius every day, having al-
most always one or two, and Boiiielinieu twetily or llihty, to lis-
ten or dispute. So little labor will Kuppurt a family in this coun-
tiy, that many are always ut leisure to ait thus. So far as 1 have
seen, they uDifonnly conduct with decorum and good temper.
Hr. Webb is genersUy at hand to watch the course of delrata,
■nd lake a part when it eoems useful. Alter eight or ten days,
rwo of them proposed a walk of twelve or fifteen miles, to preach
Qod distribute tracts in tlie villages round about. Tliey look
a goodly ijuanlity, and aAer a few days' absence returned do-
Gghted. In every village they were well received, and where
they stopped, the best food and lodging- were given them with the
Idndeet hospitality. Their uacts were gone long before they gol
back, and eighty or ninety persons applied in vain. They met i
with several interesting cases. Une of these was a man, whOf '
b^ng on a journey, by cliance as we say, Blopjied at a house I

where they were resting themselves. The moment he saw tho '

Itacis, he fell upon his knees, and shce-koed to the ground. H«
received two or three with the greatest reverence and gratitude,
offering several rupees in return. He had for years felt bur-
dened with sin, and deeply felt the impotency of the Burma4 v-r
religion to grant him relief In some of his travels, he hud met r-
B. man who had a littCe book which disclosed a new rehgioo.
Od becoming anxious, he offered twenty rupees if any wotdd
faring him such a one ; but he sought in vain. At length, some
one told him there were foreign teachers in Rangoon, who bod
Huch books to give away. He inmiediately travelled there, hut
■ought them through the city in vun, and retiuned more sad
than ever. Hb delight at now meeting with the books oitd
teachers was great With a mind prepared for instruction, be
It once understood and received the truths disclosed to him, and
nt from hour to hour listening to the wondrous tnitbs of tbe
goepeL He was furnished with the " life of Christ," the " Digest
of the New Testament," and one or two smaller tracts, and did
not leave the assistants while they remained. May the kind
Froridence which brought him to that house make him a monu-
ment of mercy, and an instrument of good to benighted Bumiafa !

All travellers accord to fiurmana the praise of uncoi
energy, and in this respect they doubtless stand very far above
their neighbors, fiut though possessed of much mtisciUar
power, and ready at times to exert it all, their activity will not

OMnpara iHth duet of nortibem men. la mmga&aAoiam of tB
sorts, they sre particularly 8low» craAy, and suspieious. From
ihtt day of my arrival, I looked out for a boat to cowrey me to
Pegu, Aya, &c^ and several times thought 1 had succeeded in
hiring a suitaUe one ; but have been finally compelled to pinv
chase. Being a mere hull, it has been necessary to build upcn
it the customary appurtenances, and I have found it. impos-
sible to expedite the business. Tlirough the kind offioes of Mh
Lanceigo, collector of the port, I have an excellent and expedh
enced old pen^n, or head boatman, who, with six men, engages
to take me to Pegu and Ava for a given sum.

On the first of June, I set forward to visit Ftegu and a^ja*
cent towns, accompanied by Mr. Webb, two of the na-
tive assistants, and a servant A clear sky enabled us to g^
eveiy thing on board widiout wetting, and we got on finefy
for a couple of hours, when a squall came up, which neariy
swamped us; but it was soon over, and we baled out the
boat, and proceeded vnth renewed obligations to praise Him
''who walketh upon the wind and maketh the clouds his
chariot"

The comfort and confidence yrith which, in this region, one
may travel for half the year, secure fi^m storm or shower, are now
reversed. It rains daily. The atmosphere, loaded with mois-
ture, innnuates its dampness every where, making musty and
mouldy the very clothes in one's trunk. Those who are at home
here can do very well by vnrapping things in flannel or waxed
cloths, or putting them in tin boxes, &c. But the traveller, and
the voyager in a small boat, has none of these conveniences

Entering the Pegu River about an houi^s pull below Rangoon,
we ascended to the ancient and famous city of Pegu in three
tides. Had we not stopped to look at towns, distribute tracts,
&c., two tides would have answered, by which 1 judge the dis-
tance to be about sixty miles. The river empties into the Ran-
goon by a vride mouth, but soon narrows to two hundred yards,
and before we get to the city, to as many feet Only small boats
ascend it fhrther. The banks are luxuriant flats, covered with a
grass ten or twelve feet high, (the saccharum spontaneum^) much
used in tiiatching. For the first forty miles, no habitations are to
be seen. Monkeys, alligators, cranes, and vultures, were numer-
ous. Elephants, deer, vrild hogs, tigers, &C., are said to be
abundant, but we saw none. This &ir and fruitful region is
almost abandoned, while whole nations struggle to glean firom
beirenness and firigidity a hard subsistence.

n WilUo twonly natte of Pegu, wo foiind viUsgieB, «

f llicts, BccompBoied witli exhorcationB ftoiti Mr. Webb vmd tlM

I Msifiumis. lu iheee tovrae, no tracis had ever been given, nt

I drUtioti teacher had ever been seen. Many refused our book^

go^tectiug aome snare ; bot the modt received ihein gladly.

Host of the tracts were ExtTHcIs from the Old TasiBmeiit, Mark,

Luke, and L.ite of Christ. The latter ia a copious hamiony of

Ihe four GoEpelB, wholly in Scripture lanj^Hge. The Lonl blem

tbeseed of his own truib! The people are princijially I'egtmne,

(or Ta-lin^ as the Burtnans cat! them,) and speak that languoga

chiefly. Chough Dearly alt of the men understand Biirman. There

tie fame Karens also^ and Amber inland they form ahnost the

entire population.

1 found die once proud and imperial city sunk to a comtDan
tillage. Zangnomaitg, a town opposite, wliicb, with a consider-
able region adjacent, is ruled by an upright Aimenian Christian,
ianow greater in size and prosperity. In fact, on that side, for
many miles, is a constant succession of thriving villages-
While Pegu was the metropolis of an indepenilenl kingdom,
it bad a population of 150,000 souls. But Alompra, awaro thai
its destruction would serve to perpetuate his coot]uesl of the
ranintry, destroj'ed it, leaving only the sacred edifices.

Its former extetil may still l« traced; but I found almost the
whole site covered with water a few inches deep, owing probably
to a neglect of the draina and sltiices. The present town is upoa
the site of the old, and conaisti of but two Btreeta, one paralld
to the river, and the other leading out to the great pagoda. The
late king endeavored to reiBtOTe the raxy to eonsequence, as die
Peguana are no longer a distinct people. Far this purpose, be
removed thither, in 1790, from Rangoon, Ae seat of the provincial
gDvemmenL The effort proved abortive. Tite merchants and
majority of the people remained at Rangoon, wliere all busincM
advantages were so greatly superiw, and the govemmeitt waa
•oon reseated at Rangoon. The deBcription of the city given by
Colonel Symmes, who virited it in 1795, will not now apply.

Desolate and diminisbed as is the city, its huge ^oo-ma-do9
pagoda, and some of its appendages, are in goodfveservBtion,atld
worthy of all admiration. It stands on a fine hill, of gradual as-
cest, the surDmit of which has been flattened into a plain of
about three acres. The sides are sloped into two terraces, as-
eended by steps of hewn sioite. The top is occupied ikK on^
by the great pagoda, but by zayats, t^oongs, trees, &c. The pyr-
snid is of tbe usual fonn. The base comietB of two octaginial

■tones, much larger than tbe pagoda itself and iridB enon^to
■uatain each a ring of sixty pagOdaa^ about thirty leet high, nmi-
hr to each other, though not alike, and many of them much in-
jured by time. The diameter of this octagonal base is 400 ftet.
and the entire height of the building 960 feet Thisis the pago-
da represented in my Bible Dictionaiy, and of which akna
prints are common. Tlie country round is that same unifimnlevcl
which distinguishes the whole of what was the kingdom of Pegik

Having made considerable alterations in my boat, suggested
by experience in going to Pegu, 1 left Rangoon for Ava, accom*
panied by Mr. Howard, as interpreter, on the 14th of June. The
weather was fine, and befi>re the end of the flood tide, we had
rowed twenty-five miles on the Panlang, one of the mouths of
the great river of Burmah. The country was flat, inundated at
high tides, and uncultivated, till toward evening, vrhen the banks
virere higher, the lands laid out for rice, and villages numerous

Stopping, at the expiration of the next tide, at Kew-new,
twenty-five miles fiirther, we found a cluster of large villagiei^
amounting to fifteen or sixteen hundred houses. InnumenUe
boats, large and small, were taking in rice, salt, fish, &C., ftr tfie
upper country. Hiring two smaU canoes, which could penetrate
among the crowd of boats, we supplied tracts to all who would
accept them on both sides of the river ; thus sending the truth
to perhaps a hundred difierent villages. Before getting the
canoes, I gave to all the boats passing by, and was afiected to see
some who could not come near, plunge into the river and swim
to me for them, and, bearing them back with upraised hand, sit
down instantiy to read them aloud. Some women applied for
books, who proved their claim by reading fluentiy. In most of
the boats, large and small, were women and children, who
seemed at home, and, I am told, spend much of the year (in some
cases all of it) in this way. In the small craft, they generally
steer the boat while the husband rows.

The boats on this river, though of all sizes up to 200 tons, are
but of two general descriptions. All retain the canoe shape,
sharp at each end. Large boats have one mast, and a yard of
long, slender bamboo, to which is suspended a square saiL The
sail is made in sections, the centre ones only being used in
strong winds, and the others added at the sides when necessary.
Sometimes a small sail is temporarily fiistened above the yard to
the ropes, by which it is sustained. The deck extends fi*om ^ve
to ten feet beyond the sides, with large bamboos fastened be-
neath ; making at once a platform for the men, when using their

St*

■toe it

h ak>
naif
yffv.

ASCEItDIIta THE laftAWADDT. 85

nttiiig-poles, Sm^, and ao outrider to prevent their upaetdiig.
Tlie vessel itself is wholly covered witharegularBurman house,
irell thatched, ^lich carries part of the cargo, and fumiahes
eoblna to the &inily and boatmen. This gives them just the ap-
peaiance of the pictures of Noah's srk in children's books. Over
this roof is a platfbrm, on which the men stand to work the sail.
Tliey are manned by firom fifteen to twen^-five or thirty men,
ukd Bometimes forty or more ; the captun, or owner, having
their wives and whole bndlies on board. A better idea of these
boats may be gained bj the picture of Sagaing, in which two
are introduced.

My boat is a sample of such as persons in moderate circum'
Blances use for going from town to town, and in the small way of
trade along the river. It is a canoe hollowed out of one log, fbr-
ly-Bix leet long, deepened by a single plaiik fastened on each side,
f he stem and stem are left solid tor tin'ee or four feet, and curve
upward out of the waler, especially all. The forward half is
decked with bamboo and thatch. As Burinans sit cross-legged
on a floor to row, this accommodates them in using both oars
and poles, and furnishes a sleeping- place beneath for the native
assistants. The boatmen always sleep on deck. About twelve
teel of tlie after half is occupied by two little cabins fur myself
and Mr. II., ong for sleeping, and the otiier, which contains a
table, chair, &C., serving as a parlor. The sides of tlie latter are
made of light mats, the upper lialf turning uji for a window.
The sleeping-room is but three feet higli, as baggage, food, &c,
must be kepi under it ; but the floor of the sitting-room being

BI7RXA.H.

near llw bottom ofthe boat, enaUes US to Stand op in it Behind
tbe rooms is the kitchen, yiz. a shallow box filed with earth;
beneath which is wood and water ; while at the side hangs t
hen-coop. Romid the rooms is an outrigger, to enable the men
to pass back and fbrth without intruding on me, and to p r e ?ep t
her oversetting. This last appendage is not common to boats of
this size. Finding her to roll heavify, we fiistened at the water-
maik a bamboo, ten or eleven inches in diameter, running neady
the length of die boat The sail, which is square, is fiistened
between two bamboos, wMch stand up abeam of each other,
in the form of the letter V.

Such is my home for much of this << rains." For the first few
days, I WBB so cramped for room, and so incommoded with rain,
heat, smoke, and musquitoes, that it was difficult to do any thing
in the way of study. But now I am quite at ease ; the mus-
quitoes are left behind ; my little matters are all adjusted, and I
find it luxury to enjoy the entire command of my time — a luxury
for many years almost unknown.

Ten days' diligent progress brought me within a day or two of
Prome, where the unbroken level of the vast delta of the Irra-
waddy begins to be relieved by the occasional sight of distant
hills. A few miles onward, they approach the river, where their
abraded bases present the now novel sight of stones and graveL
The rocks are red calcareous sandstone, quartz, and breccia, the
gravel chiefly quartz. Undulations now begin to appear in the
surfece of the country, and on the whole the scenery is attrac-
tive. More delightful weather could not be. A fine shower or
two, nearly every day, lasts half an hour or so, and the tempera-
ture varies agreeably fi^m eighty to eighty-five degrees in the
day, descending two or three degrees at ni^t, while at all times
there is a fine breeze. This, for the hot season, as it now is, was
much cooler than I had expected. Tlie banks now begin to be
high, and dry enough to admit walking along the shore, and 1
find it pleasant to pass through the beautiful groves of mango,
tamarind, and palm-trees, which divide the villages. Hitherto
we have had villages in sight almost every moment, sometimes
several at a time. It is so, still ; but on ascending the bank, we
find others, not visible fix>m the boat, stretching along a mile
back fix)m the river. Beyond are extensive paddy-fields, with
large herds of bufyoes.

The river is now thirty feet above its lowest stage, and spreads
fer a mile or two on each side, not in one vast sheet, but cutting
up the country into innumerable islands. We follow the remote

— FBOU. ^fM

(rindiugs to avoid the powerful curreDt of the main streaiDi
ind tiiiis find many villages where no white lace was ever seen.
These ore geoerally email, but consist sometiiues of severs] hun--
d houses. As no miBsionary hus gone up the nver to ^va
:ts ID the rainy seasou, there is little iloubt but tliat inany of
se people now for the first time receive the knowledge of tin
3 religion. On the great river, we often find persons who
have had tracts, and now utterly refuse them. But in these bj-
Wiqrg, all receive them with gladness. i

I feel especially ansious to furnish the boats viith bookji j
Issuing, as they do, out of every creek, they will carry sonw
knowledge of the eternal God to hundreds of villages where no
missionaiy is likely to penetrate for years.

Several times, lately, I have observed an ingenious, and to me
novel mode of fishing. A score or more of gourds are sufiered
Id float down the stream, h'om each of which depends a hook
•nd line. The Gsherman, in his little canoe, passing from one to
another, takes up what is caught, huts the hooks, and when he
has followed them a mile or two, returns with his fish, or begins
"fiain- ,

A strong southerly wind brought us to Prome {Pyec-mi/ii, a( |
tlie natives call it) early on the aflemoou of the 24th, and gaTA *
us sufficiNit (^pomuiiiy of viewing the city. For eiglit or niiis
miles, the villages had been contiguous, some of them very Jai^.
We walked over a good deal of the city. It ejdiihita every where
Bj'niptoins.of jioi'erty and decay ; and, from on ostiniatu made oil
a height in the suburb, I should judge it to coDtaia less than five
hundred houses. The walls are mostly fallen down, the ditch
filled up, and the stately remains of ancient superstition hasten-
ing to ruin. We went a little way beyond the city to a fine hill,
on which stands a pagoda not much smaller than that at Ban-
goon, and ^Ided from top to bottom. The ascent is by brick
•turs, covered with a succession of zayats. In some respects, it
is a more interesting spot than the hill of Shoo-da-gon. The
city is more plainly seen, the vicinity is &r more beautiful, and
the distant mouutuns form a fine back-ground. Around the
pagoda are many smaller ones, conitdning beautiful marble
images, some as large as life. A very handsome temple is q>-
propiiated to a copy in stucco of the impression of Gaudama'i
foot, a copy of which is given in another part of the volume. A.
profiision of tees, gilded streamers, and other objects usually
seen around pagodas, occupy the enclosure } and the whole air
of the place is that of solemn antiqui^. In one of the zayats

Mt an old mm, thin, and of a fine inteDectoal eountenance, eat-
ing a nice dinner, wliich some women had brouglit him, who
were flitting near to return with the dishes. He has determined
to spend his remaining days or years on that venerated hiR
What is broo^ him he eat& When nothing comes, he fuHa,
In diflerent places were seen persons at prayer, or piously cut-
ting up the grass which obtruded itself in the joints of the flag^
ging. The bells, struck by coming worshippers, yielded deep^
soft tones^ and the chime from the lofty tee was particulaify
clear and sweeL The sun, descending with uncommon splen-
dor, threw his mitigBted rays under the roofs of the andent
temples, casting twilight pomp upon the stately idols in the deep
niches; silence reigned anH)ng the retired terraces and time-
worn shrines ; the finee, fresh breeze difiused luxurious coolness,
and, as the shade of evening gathered on, the place seemed just
such as a devoted Boodhist would choose for his abstractions. A
Christian could not but recur to holy themes, and be warmed
with fervent aspirations for the coming of the Lord.

Descending by difierent stairs, a polite citizen pointed out the
evidences of a magnificent arcade, which was accidentally burnt
several years ago. It was the rulers' way to the pagoda. Over
the low grounds beyond it is a fine causeway of brick, some
hundred yards long. On each side, groves of palm, interspersed
with kyoungs and little bridges, formed altogether a scene of
great beauty. All this to the honor of a frail man, who died and
was buried, as his own worshippers admit ; while He who gives
the rain in its season, and in whom they live, receives no rever-
ence ! All this to *^ change the glory of the incorruptible God into
an image," and " the truth of God into a lie " ! All this to '' wor-
ship and serve the creature more than the Creator, who is God
over all and blessed forever " ! O that this people may soon know
the riches of the goodness and long-sufTering of Grod ! Alas !
that the best we can hope of this unhappy people, is, that, having
" sinned without law, they shall perish without law " I

Before reentering the city, we passed through a little village
allotted to lepers. Four men and a woman seated themselves in
a row, by the way-side, as we came up, and modestly solicited
alms. Before giving any thing, 1 stopped some minutes to ob-
serve the effects of this terrible disease. They made no clamor,
did not repeat their solicitations, showed off no affectations, but
were cheerful and entirely without pain. Much bodiJy suffering
is not endured in this disease, except at the commencement One
was not much aftected : each of tlie others had lost all of their

orrudr H

^rs, and moet of their toee. They were thin and bag(
FTbe distresBing sceae brought powertuUy lo mind Uto
ur Divine Master. There are about thirly-five
ofthese persons ia the city, occupying two villages.

A couple of hours' sell Irom Prome, with our hnu oionaoon.
brougbt us to a narrow pass in the river, resembling the high-
luidd of the BudsoQ. On one of the highest western eummila is
(he famous pegoda Foo-o-doiig, visible ainong the trees. Here
iisudutua lived, and here is abowu on a rock tlie jiriat of his
Ibot, rmdently fabulous, one would think, even to a Burmao ; Ibr no
haman foot was ever of euch a shape. Copies on stone, in plan-
ter, or in painting, of this great wonder, are preserved in many
places,aDd regarded with great veneration. I afterward obtained
one of these, from which the drawing is made.

On every aide, for some daja, we have indigo growing, and the
]arge jars in which it is steeped, frequendy stand in rows beside
ihe river. Both soil and climate here are said to be eminently
bvorable to this plant, and the cultivation of it in experieuced
and scientific hands would certainly prove lucrative. AIoHl of
the product is consumed in this region, which is iianioularly
devoted lo manufiiclures. Large quantities of cotton cloth are
daily seen hanging up at the villages, in the course of being
dyed. Some of it ia of a brilliant red, procured from native
woods called nee-pe-ziy and aoo-ban. These are preferred eveq
to the sapan wood, as yielding as gt)nd a color, and more
durable.

In eveiy respect the landscape has now changed. Instead of
an interminable level, devoted mainly lo coarse grass and paddy,
without trees, without birds, and without houses, excejit in lu^
villages, we have every variety of beautiful landscqie ; fine
hills, cultivated in patches, even to the summit, scattered houses,
fenced fields, noble trees ; with horses, catde, hogs, fowls, and
numerous birds. Among the trees the beautiful and stately
tamarind now begins to be seen.

The number of trading boats on the river ia astonishbg. We
pass scores every day, and sometimes hundreds. My boat being
snail, in mere ballast trim, and well manned, we puss every
thing, and thus have an opportunity of supplying numbers of
them with tracts. The largest of them cari-y ten or twelve
thousand bushels of uncleaned rice, the smaller three or four
hundred. Their chief lading seemed to be rice, salt, and gna-pee.
In ascending, they are, for the most part, drawn by the crew
with a rope from the bank, or propelled by setting-poles ; sailing

^'^.f «-■< ,-^^, - j9i

entj- iHkb die wiod is fiur, mii neither too fltrong nor too wieik.
TIkj are ^eiieimUf from three to fijor DHMthB in iirwMlHy
fiom the deha to Av«.

No one can a e cen d die rifcr widiofit being inipwa B cd widi te
hardUioody ddD, eneff]gT, and good-hmnor of Bunnan boatinw^
and the bappj ad^nedneas of their boats to the navigatioB.
In aaeenbig^ much of die way must be aecomplidied bj setdi^
pokflL For these thej use stiaigfat bainhooa, of a species niiidi
is afanost solid, and Teiy stiong. The end is applied, not to d»
front of the shoolderyas with us, but above die coUar-bone, or oft
the top of the shouldei^ Bending ibnvard till their hands touch
die deck, they bring die reastanoepeqmMlicular to the spine, and
thus possess fiir greater power than is possible by our mode.
When but slight exertion is required, the pc^ is applied as with
us. On many boatmen and coolies, a callus is fi>nned on the
top of the shouldor, which looks like a snail swelling. Getting
aground is a daily occurrence, and sometimes frequendyin a day,
owing to the continual shifting of the sands, and uncertainty as
to the height of the water. In such cases, the men are instandy
in the water, to shove oC In pulling the boat by ropes, we fre-
quendy meet streams and nullahs, over which they swim without
a moment's hesitation. If a bamboo or an oar fidl overboard,
they instandy plunge in and recover it In &ct, they seem al-
most amphibious ; and Burman costume is most happily adapted
to aquatic exigencies. The strength and energy with which they
surmount difficulties, transcend any thing I ever saw among the
boatmen on our own western waters,- and in point of temper and
morality they are immeasurably superior. In this trip and my
various previous ones, I have never seen a quarrel, or heard a
hard word Cross accidents have occurred, and we have fre-
quendy been entangled with other boats ; but all difficulties have
been met and surmounted with good temper, and even hilarity.

Familiarity with the watery element seems to prevail in Bur-
mah, wherever there are streams. I have seen women and chil-
dren swimming with ease and confidence ; and several times litde
cliildren, scarcely able to walk alone, frightened at the white
foreigner, have plunged into the water to swim to their mothers
in the boats. The practice of mothers taking their infants daily
to bathe, renders them perfectiy fearless of the water.

June 27. For some days the river scenery has been increasingly
interesting. The country seems generally under tillage ; cities
and towns line the shores, and die hills are covei-ed with fine
forests. Italy itself might jusdy be proud of the scenery. The

I nn

improvements and population appear to extend, iiowcTcr, in
mne jilaces at leuet, but a stion distajice from itiu river.

Before Eiiuset, June 28, ctun« to tor tlie night ul Yuy-tian-
foiuig, a village important only for its trade iu petroleum. Tito
wellfl being but two milei! from tlio village, I imnjediatclj set out
to walk to them. The way was woU tiealen by bullock carti,
often crossing the bed of tiie torrnnt, (now diy.) whence the
nllage derives ita name, A more rugged and denolale region
can scarcely be imagined. The rocks arc sandetoiie, puddiug-
atone, And petrifacliooe j tliB soil, sand and blue clay. BioaT
hills on every side rise abruptly, like waves in a chopping Eea,
Merile and unsightly. One plant only seemed lo And a congeniai
kmL It resembled a prickly pear, groH-ing to the heigbi of ibirty
le«t, vid) stem a foot in t^ameter.

The wells are very numerous, said to be more tlian 400,
occupying a space of about Vi eqiiore miles. They Are from
SOU lo 300 feet deep, ofsmall calibre, aud sustained by scantling.
The tempemture of the oil, wben first .faised to tiie top, ia 8!)°.
Hen do not go down, but on eartlien pol is lowered in and drawn
u(]over a beam across the moutli, by two men ruimiug off vrith
Ibe rope. The pot is emptied into a little pool, where tiie water
with which it ia largely niLsod subaides, end tlieoil is drawn off
pure. It ia esported in eattben jani, containing about 30 [nimde.
The price now, including the pois, is about a tical for 2-i vise,
or about 50 cents for ten poiriids. A well yields alioiii 400 or
500 vies per day, and ia worked by three or four men. Some-
times 700 are obtained. The amount depends on the quantity
of water drawn up mth the oil A duty of one twentieth is paid
to government

Thie most uaefiil oil is very extensively used tor lamps and
torches, and is exported to all parts of the empire whither it can
be taken by water. It is also used lor preserving wood, mat
partidons, palm-leaf books, Si.c. from insects and from the
weather, and is an admirable article for these purposes. Even the
white ants will not attack wood which bas been brushed with it

For several days, we have noticed on the shore great quantities
of petrified wood, and have gathered specimens, which exhibit
the fibres and cells perfectly. Snme tnmks of trees, ten or
twelve feet long, lie in the edge of the water, entirely petrified.
Teeth, bones, &c. are found in the same state. The inhabitants
assured me that they sometimes picked up petrified leaves.

Sal-lay, a day's sail above the oil wells, though not large, is an
important city. It is the metropolis of a fertile diatrict, and

92 BU&MAH.

drives a considerable trade in jaggery, cutch, cotton, onions, &&.
Here, as at several places before, we found Shyans, comibrtaldy
bivouacked on shore, and bartering blue jackets, stick lac, &LC^
fi)r salt and salt-fish. Their conimoditieB are brought in cartas
and in panniers on the backs of bullocks. They seemed in qq
haste, were engaged in little manu&ctures for sale, and would
probably remain till the close of the rains. They are instandy.
distinguished from Burmans, by wearing a regular round-about
jacket and wide trousers of blue nankeen, reaching to the knees*
The jackets are frequently quilted veiy neatly. I have seen
various companies of them in dififerent places, trading in the
same manner. They always appear decidedly superior to fiur-
maos in intelligence and civilization. There is, however, great
difference in this respect between the different tribes. Hie in-
formation I have obtained respecting this nation, fi*om the peo-
ple themselves, and other sources, with what I may hereafter
collect, will appear in another place.

The scenery since leaving the oil wells, is wholly changed.
The hills are more naked^ and the whole country wears a pecu-
liar aspect of desolation ; villages are few, and the population
evidently sparse. In some places, the western shore rises
abruptly to the height of two or three hundred feet, of very soft
sandstone. The eastern bank is less elevated. Thousands of
birds have made perforations in the side for their nests. Among
these, the common sparrow and the wild pigeon seemed most
numerous. Inland are rugged and bleak hills, covered vrith
shrubs and stunted trees. The soil of the valleys is the debris of
sandstone and breccia, with very little loam.

The remains of the once magnificent Pa-ghan stand in the
midst of this region, so destitute apparently of the means of sup-
porting human life. Such a locality, however, have some of the
greatest cities in the world, and still more frequently the ruins
of great cities. Man's presence and power can make a garden
in a desert, and his departure brings desolation over the fiiirest
scenes. This city is said to have been founded A. D. 107 ; but
none of the ruins have ascribed to them a higher date than A. D.
860. An American could scarcely assign half this age to any
building of brick. But these bricks are uncommonly fine, iho
masonry exceedingly massive, and the chunnam, or stucco vrith
which they were coated, almost indestructible, in so mild a cli-
mate. The edifices, being regarded vrith religious veneration,
have been preserved from all intentional dilapidation. The
plants and trees, too, which overgrow deserted edifices elsewhere^

sadrbj inBiouBtuig their roola into crevicea, hasten their ruin, art
here not eeeu. Tliis lust |ieculiarity lias beeii Ifiought to axiM
from tlie iiiiiueiice of the adjaceul eartli-nil wells and spriDga, oa
the Btmoephere. '

Ab would bo exi>ecled bj' all who have seeii a BuriDan cit^
these ruins are of sacred edliices only. The Iruil bunilkoo houwt
Df the people perish alinogt as soon as desurtcd. 1 entered thtf
place from tlio Dorth, where ti coiunmn cnrt-way crossed th^
enimbled ridge of u great wall Gullies and torrents cut up tfaii
euTirimB on thia side, aad it is probable that the city never e^
tended over tluB region. Every spot, however, which would tO"
commodate a pagoda, faae one upon iL Wiihia the wall, th*
ground is level, though very high, and contmaudiug a wide pro»^
pecu Here, for tho first tittio, I saw buiidinga which could b0
called temples; many of tlje pugodas boiiig built hollow, wjfli
noble rooms devoted to images and image worship. Some trft
theBe,aH well as those which ai-e solid, are oftlie noblest descrip*
don; Utile injtired by time, with here and there some remains of
the exterior gilding in sheltered places. We entered some, and
(bund Buperb carved and gilded ceilings, sheltertnj^ at once grea^
ghastly, half-crumbled Guudamas, and herds of cattle. MaHU
cffire, in some, showed them to be used by the people lor occs"'
Donal homes, or peiliaps by herdtnen. *"

I coidd not attempt to count these venerable piles. Tliey aro
lliiekly iseattered; not only over all the site of the city, but for
miles around. Many of them are more than a hundred feet high.
One, which seems to have been occasionally repaired, is two
himdred and ten feet high. The difiereace between their shape
aad that of those in the lower provinces is very striking. Jn-
gtead of the solid mass of masonry, rising with a tapering spire,
these are ponderous, wide-spread buildings, whose noble iuta-
riors endlle them to the name of temples. The arches are lolfy,
in both Grecian and Gothic forms, and the ceilings in many
cases gilded and ornamented with painting and tracery. The
exterior is equally unlike the pagodas of Pegu, from the profusion
of labored cornices, turrets, and spires, which are scattered over
the whole sur&ce. The general resemblance is to that pven in
ibis volume, page 143.

It is evident that great reverence yet exists for this spot; for
many of the pagodas, of a size scarcely inferior to their venerable
neighbors, are certainly modem, and a few are new. Such a
featiu^, in a landscape of ruins, is truly rare, and keeps the mind
the sad thought that the cold and gloomy system

M BURiUH.

which reared these << vain oblations," has not passed away wilb
the in&tuated generation who constructed them.

That the pec^ie should come to these abandcxoed shrinee^ aad
add others also, to be left unhonored by the pasnng throngs li
perhf^MS accounted for by the fiict, that on this [E9>ot this relig](0&
was first proclaimed in Burmah. Ah-ra-han, the suocessfid
missionary of Boodhism, here proclaimed its doctrines nearfy a
thousand years aga At this place, (then the metropolis,) undar
the patronage of King Ah-nan-ya-tha-mon-zan, he taught hii
^new religion;" and its spreading influence utterly supplanted
p<dytheism, and ail the ancient superstitions. Hius may maBf
with kingly aid, change the forms of human &ith ; but, Oh, how
hopeless are our efforts to change the htcarU of this people^
without divine aid ! Grod grant that the period of fioodhist de-
lusions may soon cease, and leave these new structures only to
mark the melancholy prevalence ^f former sin!

The boatmen having intimated, some daya ago, that cattle
were very plenty here, and that I might get a ciedf cheap, I in-
quired if they wanted veal themselves. They rather reluctantly
confessed their desire, knowing me to be aware of their religious
scruples ; but I readily agreed that, if they would procure me a
cal^ my Madras servant should kill it, so that they might eat
without compunction. Accordingly, at Noung-oo, the penin
bought a fat yearling for a rupee and a hal^ (67i cents.) But
as the late owner was leading it to the river, hcdf a dozen of the
neighbors set up a clamor, because he had sold his beast to be
killed ; a crowd gathered, the penin slunk away, and the disap-
pointed owner led back his heifer ! The proper way to get meat
is to shoot any &t animal you see, then pay its owner for the
damage, and bear off your prize. The owner in such case es-
capes blame, and is gratified to get the money.

In this region, cattle are very numerous, both bufialoes and
the braminy breed. We were offered, at the next village, a fine
pair o( very fiit oxen for six rupees. The roads are good here,
and much inland transportation is carried on. We every evening
saw herds brought over fi^m the islands, where they had been
pastured during the day. It was amusing to observe the skill of
the herdmen in swimming them across the wide and rapid
current With a short stick, they swam behind, making them
keep.their heads up stream, bringing up those who lag, jumping
often on their backs, 'and walking firom one to another; now
standing up on an ox, now sitting at ease upon him, now dash-
ing down or up for a straggler, and seeming to be as much in
their element as the buffaloes themselves.

^^Plt has often been very amiisiDg lo eee ihe coDslernalioa or Uw
P curiosity of tbe people, many of whom have never ecen a white
I msD before. Even the doga set up an uqubu&I burking ; but the
P fierceai of them run, if 1 mop a niomcnl. I >mvo Mmetiraes pot
I to parlial flight n herd of buffaloes, to wliom my white face and
vUte dress ore as terrific as to the dogs. As I sit to eat in ihe
boat, a range of women and children often eKjuot on the ground
» gaze. If I go toward them, they ; euerully vauisli. Oftet^
OD entering a house among the Karens, on some of my 10111%
the whole lamily would run away, and leave me in sole posses-
sion. Many times, as 1 walk along tlie bunk, and, by luming a.
comer, come suddenly upon young girls drawing water, tliey in-
Biantly leave their pots and fiy. To those who are too old ta
feel terror, I am gBneraliy an obje<« of curiosity. They turn up
my pantaloons, admire the BcamlcBS Blockings, feel under my
veei, and wonder that wc should wear so many gam}onl&
Sometimes Ihej call me a nal. 1 am constantly struck with their
poliietiess. They desist from any Iliuig 00 the slightest intinia-
tion ; never crowd around to be troubiesotne ; and i£, on showing
ray watch, pencil-case, or any thing which particularly sttracta

illwm, there are more than can get a etglit, llin oilier ones stand
doo^ or keep seated, and tlius wail till their turn comes, or, aB
a oftener tbe cose, when I liave not time to wait, forego tha
Kgfat altogether, witbont any signs of tarbulenc«.

After passing Peghan, the palmyra is very conunon. This is
Uie species of palm which here yields tlio toddy, and is tlieretbro
called by loreigners toddy-lree. To many of them, slight perpen-
dicular ladders are festened, by which the owner ascends evtrf
mcHTiing to obtain the sap from a cut made fbrthe purpose. But
the regular climbers want no such aid. They tie their feet to-
gether, about inx inches apart, and thus can apply the soles of eaeh
fiMt to the tree. Locking their fingers together, they clasp th«
trank ^th tbw arms, and thus ascend with rapidity and eastt.
The sap or toddy is generally drank immediately, n^ten it is sweet
and wholesome, or made into sugar, which resembles that ob-
tained with us from tbe maple. When suffered to stand four or
fire hours, it ferments, and becomes more intoxicating than wine;
but is rarely used in this state by Burmans, and almost never to
die point of intoncatioiL From Fagban to Ave, this si>eciea
ofpalm is veryabimdant, and produces a large amount of jaggeiy,
which sella for two thirds of a cent, oiu* money, per pound.

July, 5th, 1836, brought us in sight of the "golden city," after a
voyage of three weeks. The distance is about 400 miles, hj

96 BDBlfAS.

my computation, though it is generally made 500. Since lei
the Delta, it has seldom rained, and only in warm and tras
showers. We had some perils, at one time having the mas
sail curried away in a squall, and several times rolling be
in rough places, so as to dip water on both sides. We
never without apprehensions of robbers, who always infei
river more or less. Several times, when we bad moored fit
night, the chief of tlie village came to osdure us tfa«t man]
' men lived in that neighborhood, and that we could not bt
without moving ferther to where many boata might be lyii
a village. On several occasioDs, auspicious boats hovered n
which my men affirmed were robbers, but 1 was never atta

Thus a voyage in wbich I expected onfy discomfort and
bas been performed with safety, and many conveniences.
fiwlish ai« uncomfortable auticipations, while wo have reas
think we are in the path of duty!

On the way up, we have visited and distributed trac
eighty-two towns, cities, and villages; supplied 657 botrta
vessels, many containing families, and from fifteen to thirty)
beride handing them, in a multitude of cases, to peraons i
shore. Generally, we moored before sundown at some vi
where the assistants would divide themselves, and, getting
or three congregations, spend the evening in preaching am
cussions. In general, the tracts were received with the ul
avidi^, and those who got one would often clamor for ant
Scores waded or swam to the boat after them ; and often we
so thronged with applicants, when moored to the shore, thi
could scarcely eat or sleep. But this fact is far from prov
general de^re among the people for the knowledge of the
religion. A tract is in every respect a cimosity. They
never seen such paper, their own books being made of pakn
or black pasteboard, which is written upon with a steatite p
The prinHi^ is a great ciuiosily. The thape of the book
curioaity. Besides, it is property, and no Burman will reft
gift, without a strong reason.

CHAPTER V.

lESU — PalMC —

Mea-wa-dc Woon-gym — . Tb«
IHiiinan roniEii — 3ur-ra-wa rnncB — Llimale of Ava— Hisloiy of lb«
Mission ill AvB — Fresenl Stale of M»»DD — Sar«y oT the MisiioDariei—
Soman CatlioLica — Sagaiag — Haible Quairiet — Uengoou Pagoda —
Uneiapoora.

Mr stay in Avn amounted to four iFceks. The concemg of

flw misaioD, aud the ttcqulHition of mibrnuitioti respecting iha
country and its tributaries, occupied, of course, oil business houra.
Daily habits of active exercise, however, gave me an opportunity
of makiug such obeervotions on the ci^ and vicinity ub n&tunUly
find a place in Iho diary of a traveller.

The name of the city is Ang-wo, or Avva, pronounced by
Europeans Ava, a term wLich they somelimes apply a

kmgdom. The dty is Burrounded by a wall twenty feet high,
embracing a apace of about seven mites in circumference.
Within tliis is a considerable area, enclosed by a better wall,
nith a broad, deep ditch, called " the little city." This space is
chiefly occupied by the palace, ball of justice, council-house, and
the dwellings of some of the nobility, but coutains also some
well-built streets, and many inhabitants. The palace itself) and
pofalic buildings, are enclosed in a third wall, which is itself en-

96 BURMAB.

closed in a stockade. A veiy large part of the city is outside of
all these walls, on the margin of the rivers. On the east is the
river Myet-nga, or Little River, a fine stream, a hundred and fiftjr
yards broad, extending &r into the interior. The Irrawaddy,
opposite the city, is without islands, and compressed to a breadth
of eleven or twelve hundred yards.

The sacred edifices, as usual, are the prominent objects, which,
on eveiy side, seize the attention. They are almost as numerous
as at Paghan, and some of them of equal size. Viewed fix>m the
river above, their white and gilded spires give the city an exceed-
ingly imposing appearance, which is not realized on entering it

1 shall not attempt minute details respecting these edifices;
but Ava has little else to describe. Here are no hospitals,
prisons, schools, societies, factories, &C., whose principles or
modes would aid the philanthropist, or throw light on Burman
character ; no literature, nor literary men, to describe ; nor even
sects whose opinions, practices, numbers, &c might be usefiilly
traced. I will try, however, to give my reader some fiuther
ideas of Ava.

One of my first visits was to Bong-jeaw, a kyoung or monas-
tery built by the present king. There are three separate houses,
each as large as a conunon church, connected by galleries, and
occupying a noble enclosure in the midst of the city. The roo&
have of course the royal and sacred peculiarity of successive
stages, one above another. Every part, except the very tiles, is
richly carved in bass-relief and covered with gold. Every inch
of surface in the interior, except the floor, is similarly carved and
gilded. The effect is dazzling, but rather childish than sublime.
We found the pong-hee, ra-han, or president, in a vast apartment,
with lofty ceiling supported by many pillars, reclining on the
floor near the principal image, with his couch, books, writing
apparatus, betel-box, &c by his side. He was modest, sensible,
and firank, utterly unlike the great majority of his brethren, so
far as I have hitherto known them. He conversed finely for
half an hour, and seemed much pleased with our visit While
we were there, a young priest came and worshipped him, pre-
cisely as the idol is worshipped, and, on going away, presented
an oflering of flowers, which he took in his hand, and laid on a
vase near him, which was already piled with flowers, apparently
received the same way.

I afterwards inspected several other kyoungs, quite as splendid.
Certainly none but the monarch himself has so splendid a
dwelling as the priests.

r The pagodas are even more varioue in tJjeir ehapea than at Pa-
r iban, and fiir surpass in lasle and beauty any I have seen. Most
I of IbciQ are over one hundred feet liigli, and some more than
I Tiro Lundred Of one of Ihem 1 made u drawing, wliich mil be

I given ill another place. Colossal imagos of btU-melal, morble,
«Dd brick, covered with stucco, are innumeruble. One which
bdjust been finished out of a solid block of white marble, 'a
Duly stupendous. 1 had no mode of taking bis tobI proportions,
but measured his hand, and found the breadth twen^ inches, Aa
his proportions were just, this would moke his height, bad he
Iwco in a standing posture, about thirty-five feet !

It is said there ore in the city twenty tliousaud prieste, including
DOvitiB.tes ; and the number and ^ze of the nionaaleriifB seem to
ranction the computation. The quoeu'a monastery Itaa Ave hun-
dred ; and that which I have described above had three huudred
regular priests, and about the same number of novitiates. It
ehould be remembered, they are in fact colleges, and nearly nil
who are receiving a regular education are in them as novices.

These buildings are found in almost every part of the ci^,

toclosed by fine brick wails and shady walks. Tliey are the

I only specimens of beouty and grandeur which the city can boast,

{ ticept the pagodas, the palace, and a. few TnynXs. AriBtocruIic

I feelings prevail even in these abodes of pretended saucli^ ; and

bta some of them, none but youth of tlie higher clashes are ad-

iiiitled. A uumf>€r of mir disciples, who h»vc bepii novitiates,

speak unfavorably of the morals of the priesthood. Dressed like

other citizens, they may go any where after dark without being

recognized.

The palace is entirely of wood. It consists of nearly a hun-
dred buildings, of different sizes, and occupies a space about a
quarter of a mile long, and almost as broad. The roofs all have
the royal order of arcliitecture. The hall of audience is in a
sumptuous and convenient building, standing on a terrace of
Btone and mortar, which constitutes the floor, and is coated with
stucco, hard and polished. Lofty pillars, richly carved, support
the roof, and, like the rest of the huildiDg,are covered with gold.
The roof rises like a steeple, with many stages, and is a hun-
dred and ninety-five feet high.

In looking at such buildings, or at the numerous boats of his
majesty and the nobihty, of which every part, and even the oars,
are covered with gold, one wonders whence all this wealth is de-
rived, and is distressed that it should be so absurdly bt'Stowed.
The money ej^ndedin pagodas, kyoungs, temples, and gold and

riher iMfrttles, would fill the counbj with canalt^ toidgea, and
durable houses.

The streets of Ava cross each other at right angles, and are
wide, straight, and clean, but not paved. The centm is kept
smooth and clean for tbot-passengers, while the sides are appro-
priated to wheel-carriages, elephants, &c Much of the labor of
bansportation is done hj bullock carts. Their bodies are framed
of dmber, with bamboo yoke, and the wheels of wood, witfaont
tire. (Seepage96.] I saw no horses used fordratigfat; but hand-
some bullock canriflges are used bj the wealthy. They are with-
out seats, of courae, and the floor is nicely matted or cnahioned.
The animals, being used only for this purpose, trot along quite
briskly. Around their necks are stringa of bells. The hcnises

are not generally better than in other large towns, but, thatch
being entirely prohibited, they look more respectable. The
loofi are covered with short pieces of bamboo, so arranged
as to look exactly like shingles. Great men generally live in the
centre of some square, surrounded by the bouses of their many
retainers. Most of them have a good brick building, of two or
three rooms, Intended not for occupancy, but as a fire-proof
depository for their vaJusbles. These have veiy lately become
common, and with some fine brick monasteries just erected, and
ft sort of arsenal now in progress, indicate a general introduction
of brick houses. Nothing but the absurd prohibition of die
government has prevented this long ago. In some of these en-
closures are pleasant gardens and fruit-trees.

As to the population of the city, 1 was at much pains to obtain
correct information. The accouuts obtained from government
officers did not difibr much from each other. They said a cen-

BTS. 101

HB WM recently laken, which gave 30,000 houses for Ihe dty
mi Huliiirbs, nilbout includiug any adjacetit villages, oud that
ten per cent, ought to be added for oniieeions. They com-
puted seven persons to a house, and ttius make the population
iMOiOOO. As the goverruneDt oMuallj receives taxes ou 30,000
bailees, there does not seem room Ibr estimating the Dumber
lower; but 1 am confident it must include the district. Mr.
Crawfurd allo-vrs only 30^00. A Bevere fire occurred jtisl be-
fore my arrival, which was repotted by llie projwr officers to
the king, as having dcstroyeil 1,000 houses, beside iiiits Bi]>i
ICDiporary residences. 1 examined the ground carefully, and
compared it with the rest of tlie city, over all of which 1 rode,
tepestedly. Tbe result of the whole induces me to estiinate the
[K^ulatiofl of Av& at about 100,000. The whole cit}- and kmg-
dom beiug divided into lens of houses, under an otficcr, and
every ten of these officers being under a superior, who has charge
of them and their hundred houses, a census, at least under the
vei7 eye of government, must be tolerably correct. Taxes are
n^seeeed on fitmilies as such, without regard to wealtli. The
bead man is the tax-gatlierer. If he can tax one hundred houses,
aad report only ninety, he puts the balance into bia pocket. A
Burman census is thus almost always less tbun the truth.

The city abounds with shops, containing nearly every artrcle
'jflbreign goods, and an anijile number of niecbaiiicB; though in
some particular branches there are none. I purchased apeci-
mens of carpentry, jewelry, tin-ware, toys, das, lackered boxes,
tartfaen-ware, gongs, &c^ which were highly creditable to their
ikilL Theu- boat-building, carving, scidpture, gilding, basket-
making, and weaving, are as good and ingenious as in Anwrica,
for aught I could see, tnaking due allowance for the difierences
of form, &C., estabUshed by national custom. I got some paint-
ings executed in their best style by native artists, one of whom is
Ihe king's painter, which are about equal to the pictures on com-
mon clocks and looking-glasses. In landscapes they ftil utterly,
having no idea of perspective. Many of our trades are wholly
unknown to the Burmans.

The market is abundantly supplied with fruits, vegetables, and
ftesh fish, of various excellent kinds. Beef and veal are gener*
ally to be had, but not every day. Fowls are much dearer than
at Bimgoon, costing, generally, a tical (about 50 cents) for lour.
Bice is also nearly double the price which it bears at Rangoon.
Wages are five licals ($3,50) a month for men, or four annas
<Vlic] per day ; the laborer finding bis own ibod.

lOS BUKltAH.

Having seen much of humble life, in retired Tillages, and
among individuals of this class, with whom 1 am constantly
coming in contact, I was glad to multiply opportunities of
noting the condition and manners of the great My second visit
of this kind was to the widow ef the governor of the city, who so
greatly befriended Mrs. Judson in her trials here during the late
war. She was surrounded by retainers, and had as visitors at
her house some distinguished females ; but, except in the costly
jewels about her person, and various valuables in her coon-box,
was not to be distinguished from common people. Her house,
in America, would have been deemed the abode of poverty.
She was glad to see one who had been personally acquainted
with Mrs. J., and several times remarked that she had always
loved her as a daughter. She listens respectfully to religious
subjects, but does not appear to be shaken in her attachment
to Boodhism.

My next visit of the kind was to the Mek-a-ra prince, son of
the late king, and uncle to the present one. He is grandson to
the famous Alompra, and is said to bear a remarkable family
likeness to that monarch and his descendants. He received us
with great urbanity, and readily gave me information on various
points, for which I had prepared myself with questions. My
having been the intimate friend of Dr. Price, whose memory
he cherishes with very affectionate respect, seemed of itself a
passport to his regard.

He is much the most literary Burman in the kingdom. He
reads English, is a good mathematician, is well acquainted with
geography, and has considerable mechanical ingenuity. In his
library are a number of good English books, among which is a
complete set of Rees^s Cyclopssdia. He has also various instru-
ments, models, &c. Withal, Burman-like, he is an alchemist
Mathematics is his favorite science, and he rejects every thing
which cannot be demonstrated like a problem. I carried for my
present* some small charts, exhibiting a condensed view of lan-
guages and their classification, governments and their condition,
heights of mountains, lengths of rivers, &c., with which he ex-
fn^ssed himself pleased, and upon which he asked Mr. Kincaid
many questions, indicating both an excellent intellect and exten-
sive information. He gave me minutely the last census, and his
ovm opinion respecting the amount of population, voluntarily

* In all visits to the principal men, it is expected that a person when
first introduced will make an offering. Indeed it is common under any
circumstances.

P VISITS TO THE GREAT. 10^^

writing fbr me the itema on the spot. He is mid to be rematk-
ably free from national prejudices. A elight evidence of this oc-
corred now. We all (Messrs. Kincaid, Simans, and myself) sat
on Ilie floor, of course, on a rug which was laid down for our ac-
Huninodatiou ; and I was prctly comfortable, witli my back against
apost. But one of my feel was before me ; and his wile pointed the
mention of a servam to tiiat liici. The prince inslantly forbade
lliBt 1 should be disturbed, and begged me to sit in any posture
vhich 1 found most convenient Sitting with the feel towards
another is considered particularly disrospeclful, and a Burman
trould hardly dare, for tlie price of his head, to take such an atti-
tude before one of the royal family. 1 have since learned to sit h
k mode, i. e. with my feet behind me, on one side, or crutjsed in
front, as a tailor.

Though far from being a bigoted Boodbist, the prince, with all
his reading, seems to be decidedly attached to thai system. Mr.
Kincaid gave him Gallaudet's book on the soul, just issued from
our press at Maulmain, translated by Mrs. Bennett. He received
il with pleasure, but said he could not believe it, imless it proved
ihe matter clearly, by making it ju^ as plain as that two and two
moke four. I tuldhim it presented adifierent kind of evidence, and
endeavored to explain the difiereuce between a mathematical
and a moral certainty. But it was all in vain, till I begged him
just to take liis pencil, luid ]irove to mc, by figures, llint lie was
not a dead man ! He looked perfectly nonplused for a moment,
then burst into a laugh, and seemed by fmlher explanations to
get the idea. He promised to read the book with earnest atten-
tion, and, on taking leave, begged Mr. Kincaid would bring me

Under the auspices of Colonel Bumey, I had a very pleasant
interriew with the Mea-wa-de woon-gyee. He has long been
chief woon-gyee, or prime minister, though much of his power is
engrossed by Sali Men, the queen's brother. The venerable old
man, whose countenance is very fine, received ua very kindly,
and with evident pleasure. Colonel Bumey had told him that I
had visited various parts of Europe, and he is very fond of
hearing of foreign countries. He spoke of tlie great distance of
America, and, taking up his circular coon-boT, pointed out accu-
lately, as on a globe, the relative positions of Burmah, America,
England, &.C. He added, however, perhaps on account of his
retainenj present, " Our system has a Myenmo mount,* and puts
your coimtry so and so." In accepting my presents, he said be
* See clwptei od Bunnao leligiou.

104 BvmiiAH.

knew not what to give us Americans and EkigHsh, far we aeetned
to have every thing ah^eady; and neither he nor any other
sent me any thing. Producing a gilded casket, he ezhiUted^
apparently in corroboration of his remade, various bandaoms
articles, chiefly of English manu&cture, which had been givea
him ; among the rest, a watch presented by the femous General
Bandula, just before the contest with the British, in which h»
lost his life. There was also his Tsal-o-ay, which he handed as
to inspect, and then wore during the rest of the interview. He
spoke of our country with much approbation, and expressed a
strong desire that we should open commercial relations. It wu
replied that their present restrictions on exports disabled our
vessels from selling their cargoes ; that if specie and rice were
allowed to be exported, they could pick up what little lac, ivoiy,
&c there might be in the mai'ket, and, selling the rest of their
goods for rice or specie, proceed elsewhere to complete their
homeward cargo ; but he could not see the propriety of sliding
away rice or specie. The wisdom and cand(M* manifested on
several topics which came up, encouraged me to lay before him
the oppressive conduct of the rulers at Rangoon, and especially
at Maubee, toward the missionaries and disciples. He declared
himself entirely ignorant of these transactions, and much dis-
pleased. I remarked, among other things, that he knew the
Karens had no religion ; that their conversion threw no slur on
the state religion ; that Christianity must make better subjects
of these vrild and uncivilized people ; and that in our country en-
tire freedom of religious opinions was allowed vrithout izyury.
He assented fully, and said, if 1 would have a full statement of tlM
case written and laid before him, he would sift it to the bottom,
and effectually prevent the repetition of such acts. This was
accordingly done afterward through Colonel Burney.

This woon-gyee was a poor boy, and has risen, chiefly by his
own merit, through many grades of office, to his present premier-
ship ; thus furnishing a strong exemplification of a peculiarity
in this government, resembling a boasted trait in our own. No
offices or titles here are hereditary but the kingship.

During the visit, two Shyan Chobwaus came in, and gave me
an opportunity of extending my information respecting routes
to China. These men are, in point of fact, kings, at home, but
they approached the minister with the greatest deference. They
were waited on by the late Burman governor of Bamoo, another
of the routes by which I am seeking to ascertain the accessible-
ness of China.

^m VISITS TO THE OnEAT. ]06

A fisit lo tho TIui-tb«n-a-l)yDg', or supreme poiitifl' of the
empire, was less pleasant. I was not flurprlsed; much less
dupteosed. He, of course, saw id me a patron hxicI etrungtlieDBr
of tho mission — an object be naturally nbltors. He attcrward
pre SB a sort of excuse for hia reserve, tliat we did not alieeko at
MT entrance. If this was really bis difficulty, it adds a jiroof to
miuf I have hud already, of the excessive pride of these pricsui
Bis monastery was as splendid as Burmans know hi>w lo inoke
il; carved and gilded in every part, witliio and without.

The Sur-ra-wa prince, to whom Mr. Kincaid neit introduced
me, receiTed me with the greatest urbanity. He is the only liiU
bother of tlie present king, a few yeara younger, and is more
Skely to succeed him than the proper heir apparent* He is said
nactly to resemble the king, and certainly there could scarcely
In a more intelligent and manly countenance. The Alomprtt
forehead, which distinguishes this family, slopes backvrard sonW'
what too rapidly for a good head, but is high, and has great
breadth. When speaking, bis countenance a lighted up with
pnaX animation. Though loss literary than hia undo, the Mekara
rrince, he ia considered more talented, and to possess wore
^□eral information. He spoke in high terms of our countiy,
and acknowledged the impolicy of the restrictions on exports,
Dad other impediments at Rangoon. In remarking on varioui
rouuCries and their institutions, he showed not imly an piiliirbl-
eaed, but a reflective and strong mind. Respecting the tribea
between here and China, he gave me much valuable information.
The object of my visit to the golden city being explained to him,
I expressed much satisfaction, in finding our missionaries here
fidly protected and enjoying all the rights of citizenship. He
immediately drew a comparison between the Uberal usages of
this country, in receiving and protecting ail foreigners, and the
policy of China, in excluding them ; invited me to place teach-
ers in the adjacent cities; and recommended me to travel in the
Interior, and see more of the country.

During the interview, his lady was introduced, with a lovely
Inftnt, two or three years old; and nothing occurred to indicate
that odious haughtiness which so generally attaches to men of
his rank in the East On taking leave, he invited us lo visit his
garden next day, which we did ; for I deem a garden a test of
civilization. We ibund a large space, perhaps an acre, well laid
out, with raised brick foot-paths, plastered, and resembling stone.
Harble tanks, artificial ponds, with gold and crimson fish, numcT-
■ He uceuded the Ihroiie, on itae dealh of his broihcr, in 103T.

106 BURMAH.

OU8 water-courses and reservoirs, and several men engaged in
drawing water from wells, showed how much attention to iiriga-
tion is necessaiy to a garden at Ava. He had the peach, apple,
cofiee, ^g, and many other foreign fruits, beside the varietieB of
luscious ones which are native. In an adjacent enclosure he
had wild animals and some singular birds, perfectly gentle, lind
going at large. On the whole, it was a tasteful and pleasing spot
Men of rank, in this city, generally have such gardens, on whi<^
they bestow great expense. I visited one or two others, which
had handsome zayat» in them, where the owner reposed some-
times as in a smnmer-house, or j^ceived his intimate friends.

Not to multiply accounts of visits to great men, it vnll be
enough to remark that I found all, to whom I was introduced,
intelligent and affable. Having read of them as gorgeously
arrayed on days of state ceremony, I was disappointed to find
them dressed precisely like other men, L e. vtrith waist-cloth and
turban only. These, however, were of the best materials. If it
vraB the cool of the day, they wore also the en-gy, or muslin coat
Their dwellings now are temporary buildings, outside of the
city wall, and are, in fact, mere shanties. By what is, perhaps, a
necessary precaution, in such a government, when the king goes
out of the city, all the nobles must go out also, and stay out tiU
he returns. He is now residing at his water-palace, so called —
a collection of wooden houses, one story high, between the city
wall and the water.

During my whole visit here, Colonel Bumey was in the habit
of sending to me the distinguished persons who called upon
him, who could give me information, from their own knowledge,
of the tribes between this city and China. Among others was
the lately famous Dupha Gam, who rules the largest part of the
Singphoos. He came with a sera-dau-gyee, or chief g-ecretary,
and rode a horse richly caparisoned. The skirts of the saddle
were circular, a yard in diameter, and completely gilded. In
other respects, he had no marks of a prince but his intelligence.
Among other inquiries, I asked if he would protect Christian
teachers, and suffer them to give books, if we sent some to his
tribe. He assured me that he^vould, and that all quiet foreign-
ers were secure in any part of his dominions. Beside a small
present of penknife, scissors, &c., he accepted a copy of the
New Testament, an assortment of tracts, and a map of the
world, lately lithographed by the missionaries, with the names in
the Burman language. Mr. Kincaid endeavored to impress on
his mind some leading truths of religion.

I CLDIUTB OF ATA. Vff \

Beside the inibmiBtion gained from such personi!, it was no
anitll Euivontage to have the populace, who fbUirwed tlium,
tlie niissiou thua noticed by great nieu, and see tlieir i
Rdoue going away with our books oud tracts in llieir hajid&
Hie influence of such a sight can only be realized by those who
hire Been the profound reaped paid liy Uriculals to persona ia
uilhority.

The climate of Ava, most of the year, is delightful. The o«x4
K«son lasts (rom the middle of October to the early ]mrt oE
April. During this period, heavy fogs prevail early in the moni'^
ing, but ihey aoou disperse, and leave a Hiinoy sky. The thei>
mometer at night, and toward morning, descendB to 45° or 50";
sometimes, though very rarely, to 41P; rising in Ilia middle of
ihe day to 60°- or 7(F, Toward the cud of April, it begins to be
hat, and tlie lost of that mouth, and whole of May, are Ihe trying
portion of the year. Tile tliermonieter ranges from 83° to lOCPj
rising sometimes even to 110°, in a fair e;q)03ure at mid-day;
but it is always many degrees cooler nl night. About the Ist of
June, some dashes of rain occur ; the sky is alwaye clouily, and
Ibe periodical inundadon of the river spreads vast sheets of
imter over the low grounds. These, ivilh tiio south-weet moU'
Boon, which rarely intermits, spread a cool freshness on every
aide. The present is the nuny season ou the coast, and oa
lie mountains north of Ava, but around the city it rarely rains j
Id some years, so little as to cut off all crops, and create almost a
Ikmine. It wna during this period that my time was spent in
Ava, and more delicious weather could not be. The thermO[ne>
ler has not been above 93°, and rarely above 87". The aveiage M
Diid-day has been about 83° or 84°. Before morning, I always find
it necessary to draw over me a flannel sheet. The river IB
DOW from thirty to fbrty feet above its conunon leveL About
the middle of August, the vraters begin to subside ; the clouda
are less dense ; and for a short time very hot weather returns, but
not so oppressive as in May. The coot season then sets in, as
above mentioned. The river owes its rise not so much to rain in
the upper country, as to the rapid melting of the snow on the
lofty moimtains coimected with tlie Himalaya range, where the
ItTBwaddy rises, in common with tlie Kyendween, Burampooter,
and great Camboja rivers-
Missionary efforts were begun in tbls city by Messrs. Judmn
and Price in 1833 ; but Mr. Judson very soon returned to Ban-
goon. Immediately on rejoining Mr. Price, with Mrs. Judson, in

(

106 BURMAH.

1824, the war broke out, during which the misBionariefl were
called not to act for Christ, but to suffer. At the close of the war,
Mr. Judson proceeded to Amherst Thus scarcely any thing
was done to create a general knowledge of Christianity, or to
convert individuals ; Br. Price being chiefly engrossed with hit
medical profession, and a school of noblemen's children. He
was, however, a faithful and laborious man, so far as his bodily
strength, wasted by a slow consumption, would permit He
preached to his retainers, and such as would come to his house^
every Sabbath, and impressed religion on many with whom, he
came in daily contact, but never went among the conunon people
as an evangelist Had he lived to complete the education of the
youth intrusted to him, he would have done an incalculable ser-
vice to the country. He had obtained permission to carry ser-
eral of them to Calcutta, to finish their studies at Seramporo ;
and, though worn down by disease, could not be djissuaded firom
making it the last effort of his life. In spite of weakness, which
confined him almost constantly to his bed, he finished all his
arrangements, and the day of sailing arrived. He arose and
dressed as usuaL But, though he could disregard debility, he
could not escape death. On that morning, his attendants, having
left him for a short time, returning, found him dead in his chair !
The British resident has since tried in vain to obtain another set
of youths to go to Calcutta for education.

No conversion occurred at Ava, nor indeed can the mission be
regarded as fairly begun, till the arrival of Mr. Kincaid, in June,
1833. He had been in the country since November, 1830, and had
so &r acquired the language, as to be able to pray and expound a
little, but had not attempted to deliver regular discourses He
took a large quantity of tracts and books, of which he gave away
17,000 on the way up: this was the first general distribution
made on the river. A house was obtained ; preaching was kept
up regularly on the Sabbath, and every week evening ; and Ko
Bhoon and Ko Sanlone, excellent assistants fi^m Maulmain, oc-
cupied public zayats, and taught fi*om house to house. The
first convert was Mah Nwa Go, wife of a disciple whom Dr
Price had brought with him firom Rangoon. She, with another,
was baptized in October of the same year. Since then, twelve
others have been received into the church ; all Burmans but one,
an Indo-Briton. Mr. Kincaid's published journals make any fiir-
ther history of this station unnecessary, except to say, that in
September, 1835, Mr. Simons joined the station, and has been

TE or THE MISSION. 109

M^ojed chiefi; in tcacJiicg school, and giving tracts to such bb
ame to the house. Ho has not j'et ao far acquired tijc lunguage
u lo preach, or comniuiiicate much with tlie natives.

The present aspect of tlie station is lull of enoouragoment.
Sir. Kincaid is completely at home in the langimge, and the na-
tire assistants, among whom is Ko Shoon again for a ecstion, ore'
laboriously engaged. Beside these, Ko Gwa, tlie deacon, a wiee
ud valuable old man, is employed much of hia time very usefully
in private eonveraatiDn through the city. He had charge of the
Isle king's bearers, amounting to several himdred men, and
possesses not only a large acquaintance, but some inHuence.
Two or three of the other niembers are of very re8i)ectiib]e
worldly standing, and three young men give promise of becom-
ing nseful in the ministry. They are studying English, geog-
tsphy, &,c. at the misaion-bouse, under Mrs. Simons, and two of
Ibem will probably join the school at Tavoy.

Ail the disciples except two who reside forty miles o^ and'
Qoe who is oAen kept away in attendance upon his sister, a maid'
of honor in the palace, are regularly at worship every Sunday,
and attend the concert of prayer, and such other meetings as-
msy he appointed.

Ava is a great centre, to which persons resort from every part
of Burnmb and its tributary slates. Many of those coriio to ihs'
mission for hooks, not so much to hear about " the new religion,"
fls to see white foreigners, esi)eciHlly ladies. Exscjit Mrw. Jiid-
Bon, {who, of course, was little seen abroad during the war, and«
SB the governor's widow stated, part of the time wore the full
Burman costume, to avoid molestation,) no white female has ever
been seen here, till the establishment of the British Kesidency..
There they dare not go to satisfy their curiosity, and they flock
to the mission-house, for the ostensible purpose of obtaioiDg tt'
tncL During my stay, there were always some in the botiBOr
often a complete throng, staring at every thing, feeling eveiy
thing, wondering at every thing. Oilen, when their attention<
is secured for a moment to divine truth, they begin to feel
your bands, or examine the intricacies of your raiment, or the'
joints of your table, and you perceive your words are lost upon
Ihem. Sometimes they seem absorbed with wonder at the tract
Ton have given them, and, in trying to find out how it is put to-
gether, pull it to pieces befbre your eyes. Many have heard that
Mr. Kincaid has globes and an orrery, and come avowedly to-
see those. Oiu" mode of eating is an especial marvel ; and we
generally have many spectators in the room, or at the doon
Ton L 10

110 B17BM4E,

Such facts, together with those I have akeady mentioiied in i«k«
tion to tracts, must he remembered by the friends of missioiis at
home, lest they make very erroneous inferences from the naked
statements of missionary joumaia

It has been inferred from these, that persons have come han-
dreds of miles for a tract, or to hear of Christ, from its being sta*
ted, that a person from such or such a distant point came fbt
tracts, &C. ; whereas the person, being at the station on other busi-
ness, came as a matter of curiosity. It has been inferred, too, that
a general spirit of inquiry has been excited throughout the eminra
Alas ! the very contrary is the feet In general, tracts are reoeived
more cordially at first than ever afterward ; and often, on visiting
a village a second or third time, few will accept a tract at alL A
writer in America has stated that <* whole villages have beencoa*
verted imto God." There has been no such event Two Chris-
tian villages have been formed by collecting converted Karei|g
together, and others may yet be formed ; but, as a general noeas-
ure, it is deemed unsafe and undesirable. The great stumbling-
block with Burmans, as with those to whom apostles preached,
is '* Christ crucified.'' They cannot get the idea of an demtd
God ; and that Christ was a man seems to put him on a footing
with Gaudama. They bring up the fact of his being *< bom of
a virgin," just as infidels do. Thus that glorious doctrine,
which, to such of them as come to feel the power and guilt of
sin, is the sweet theme that fills their heart with peace, is, to the
multitude, the ''hard saying," which they cannot bear.

Yet there are some prominent encouragements at this station.
That tracts and books may be distributed from hence to the
remotest parts of the empire, is a very important circumstance.
That they come from the imperial city, gives them augmented
influence. That they are frequently taken by head-men and
principal citizens, gives more. That government is fully aware
of our missionary efforts, having had Mr. Kincaid seveial times
before them, gives the people an impression that his conduct now
is at least winked at It is ascertained also that some thirty or
ferty persons in the city are so entirely convinced of the truth
of Christianity, as to have forsaken the forms of Boodhism, and
worship in secret, as they afiirm, the eternal Giod. They dare
not come to public worship, and some of them not even to the
missionary; but they receive gladly the visits of the native assist^
ants, and, we may hope, will yet become decided Christians.

As to the personal safety of the missionaries, there is no ap-
parent ground of apprehension. The government would not

PREBKirr STATE OF THE MIS9I0.f. Ill

itive them from the countFy, much less offer [lersooal rioletiM.
TbeLf late humiliation by the British lias greatly altered their tone
Wward whita tbreignetF. It is allogctlier [mibable tlial the
ihreata of the wooO'gyeei, and orders to stop giviug books, al%
icteaded merely to exempt themselves from blame. If it should
come to the king's ears, that miseionarieB are giving books, anit
be should choose to be angry, they Hish to be able to appeal to
their record, and show that the missionaries have continued in
spile of prohibitioD. To forbid a thing, is olleu, with Bunnan
officers, their final loeasure, after whicli, having thus thruivti off
ihe responsibility, they are often pleased lo see their orders dis-
regarded. Al present, too, the question, who shall be the neM
king, is probably one of engroBsing Diagnitude to the rulers. It
is also to us. If n certain candidate succeed, Boodhisin will re-
vive on every side; if another, toleration will probably be al-
lowed. Let ua earnestly commend the result to Him who exalt-
eth kings at his pleasure. If the missionaries should be driven
away, it would probably be by such measures b?ing taken with
the natives, as to render a fiuther stay useless. One of the high-
est officers proposed, it is said, in a late conversation respecting
the crowds who came for hooks, the crucifixion of some six or
eight caught bo doing, and that thoy be suspended before Mr.
Kincaid's door tilt thoy rotted away. There is much reason,
however, to lliink this was snid for mere effect; for the f^ponker
is known to be specially indifferent to Boodhism.

Near Ava are eight or nine hundred Cathohcs, chiefly the de-
scendants of French and other prisoners, brought by Alompra
from Syrian, at his conquest of that place in 1756, They are
settled in six small villages, the chief of which is Kyiu-ta-ytufa,
which has one hmidred houses. In 1784, two priests were sent
bj the Propaganda. The troubles of Europe prevented their re-
ceiving any remittances fbr thirty years ; but their scanty wants
were supplied by their poor flock, and by the practic« of medi-
cine. They were quiet, literary men, and much respected.
One died in 1S33, and tlie other in 1832. Theu* jdaces have been
supplied by young priests from Ittdy. I catmot find that here,
or elsewhere in Burmoh, the Catholics make much effort to
gahi converts to the Christian faith ; and, though half a centuiy
has elapsed rince the arrival of the first missionaries, they hove
never given their people any portion of the Scriptures in their
vernacular. The service is in Latin, of coiu^e ; but such as
preach, do so in BurmaiL These CathoUcs live and dress just aa

112 BtTBMAH.

Other Burmaiu, and are only to be diatingiiiahed from them bj
their deeper poverty and grosser immorality.

A visit to Sagaing, opposite to Ava, and once the metropolis,
gave me not only an opportunity of noting what my official duty
required, but of visiting the tomb of Dr. Price. The intimacy
that subsisted between us, and the fine points in his charactei;
came vividly before me as I walked over the fidlen walls of his
dwelling, or in his garden in ruins,

" And still where many a garden-flower grows wild,"

or under the huge tamarinds which shaded his walks. Twas a
dark day for Burmah when he died ! The Lord has blessed his
memory by the conversion of his two sons, now in America.
May they become apostles for Burmah !

The population of Sagaing is perhaps 50,000, and the small
district or township belonging to it about 80,000 more. There
seems to be no obstacle to the immediate settlement of a mis-
sionary, except that we have no one familiar with the language
who can be spared. Many Chinese reside here, who read tracts
and Bibles in their own language. The few we have been able
to distribute in this vicinity, for a few months past, have been
most gratefully received, and sundry individuals, in applying for
others, have proved they had been attentively read.

In several respects, this city is a more eligible location for our
mission than Ava. The view which is here given was taken
firom Mr. Kincaid's door in Ava. The great abundance of fruit-
trees which are allowed to occupy every vacant spot, conceals
the houses, and makes the picture resemble a champain country,
rather than a great city. In this very thing, however, it conveys
a correct idea of Burman cities and towns in general. On the
extreme right is seen, dimly because of the distance, the famous
Schway-kyet-yet, mentioned on a subsequent page.

Three miles north-west of the city are the quarries of statuary
marble from which most of the stone images of Gaudama
are made. It is also used for water-spouts, and other purposes
about sacred edifices, and shines conspicuously round all ^e pa-
godas in this part of the country, in the polished claws and grin-
ning teeth of the huge lions (so called) which guard the pre-
cincts. The real lion is unknown in Burmah, and these images,
which, though of all sizes, are perfectly alike, are the most
atrocious caricatures of the king of beasts. A picture of one
is given in the chapter on Burman religion.

ODA — EI.WS SO*T. US

Prom eight to fifteen miJes furiber north is a rcgioD reseni'

Jing the "licks" of our western country, wberu (aat quantitiea
f Bait BTB made.

Fke miles south-weat from Sagaing, and about a mile from the
real mtiiiiifactory of idols, is die Kyoung-moo-dnu-gyee pagoda,
imouB for its Hue. Its shape is precisely like a thimhle, one
undred and seventy feet high, and one thousand feet in circiun-
:rence at the base, ll looks, in ascending tlie river, like a httle
An inscription within the enclosure gives the dale of
:i, which coiTesponds to our A. D. 1626.

The Mengoon pagoda, above Uuicrapoora, would be VBBtiy
ager if finisJied, suri»saing some of tlie pjTajuida of Egj-pu
Fhen not more than half advanced, the king grow so cool to-
rard Boodliiam, and had so exhausted liia means and the lilier-
litf of tlie noblos, that be abandoned the undertaking. His
Irshiwinical astrologerB furnished him an excellent pretext by
iviDg out Itiat so soon as finished he would die, and tlie dynasty
e changed. The lions were finished, and though intended, of
ourse, to bcor the tisual proportion to the size of the(«Ufic:e, tliey
re ninety feet high. A huge bell was also cast for it, staled, in
10 thirty-fifth volume of tlie autliorized Burman History or
'hronicles, to weigh 55,500 ras {about 200,000 Ibu.) ; but the
liief woon-gyee declared to me that its weight ivos 86,000 viss.

On the way to Umerapoora, we saw the royal bargea, a dniw-
ng of one of which is given above, and visited the pagodaa

114 BVBMAlL

and seayats of Shway-ltyet-jet, or ''ffae scratch of* the goldrai
fbmV* The group stands on a bluff jutting into the river, opfpo^
site the range of hills back of Sagaing, which tenmnate at the
riiore. The whole is now in fine order, some having been lately
re-eoated with stucco, mtd the whole fresh whitewashed ft
forms the most beautiful object from Ava, resembling, at that
distance, a noble palace of white marble.

Here Gaudama wears a form not given to him elsewhere, I
believe, except in paintings, viz. that of a cock. The legend is
that, when he was in that form of existence, he vras king of aB
fowls, and, passing that place, he scratched there ! Hence the
sanctity of the spot, and hence the noble structures which dis-
tinguish it ! The fiice of the stone cocks which ornament die
niches, is somewhat human, tlie bill being brought up to his
eyes, like a huge hooked nose. In the zayats at this cool and
delightful retreat, commanding the best view of Ava, and much
of the river above and below, we found a number of well-dressed
men reposing on clean mats, to whom we preached *^ Jesus and
the resurrection." They readily accepted tracts, and we left
them intently perusing them.

A short row further brought us to Umerapoora, seven miles
above Ava, on the same side of the river, which here takes a
sudden bend to the north. It extends back to a noble lake, and
is shaded charmingly with trees. The location is, however, very
inferior to that of Ava. A low island and an extensive flat ob-
struct the harbor, and, except at high water, the lake behind has
not a good entrance from the river. At Ava, the shore is bold,
and the water always deep, and the Myet-nga, or Little Biver,
which passes through the eastern suburb, is a fine navigable
stream, opening a trade to the interior, for two hundred miles.

Umerapoora was nearly desolated by a dreadful fire in 1823;
but though within the walls it remains desolate, the suburbs have
grown to a city at least as populous as Ava itsel£ A large num-
ber of Chinese reside here, and carry on a considerable trade
with their own country by the annual caravans. They are Boodh-
ists, as most of the common Chinese are, and have a showy
temple, with an adequate supply of priests. We sought refuge
there in a shower, and were courteously received. They listened
to the good news with decorum, and accepted Burman tracts, in
whi6h language many of them read. During our visit, a number
of Burmans came and made their offerings and sheeko to the image.

There are various wonders at Umerapoora, such as the great
and boasted bell, (Burmans are marvellously fond of vast bella;)

f ib brass cannon, almost the largest in tlm world ; the slupendous
Inzeu imuge of Gaiidama, brought Oora Arrocan ; Ilie girl men-
ftmed in Mr. Kincaid'e jouitibI, and by Major Crawfurd, os being
torered with loiig, fine Lair, &c. ; but 1 could tiot spend tjte lime
KDcessary to see rheia, and, procuring- a bullock cart, rode about
lit Bee the localities, extern of [Kriniiation, Slc,

It seems important to locate at least two misBiurmries at Ilib
phce, not ool; for the 100,000 inhabilanta, but for Iho ihoiisonda
of Chinese who may here be reached. One of the iniasioDsHea
might study Chinese, and be prepared at a future day to accom-
puiy the caravan to Yunnaii. Tlie government would not in-
terfere to prevent the convereion of foreigners, and tlia coa-
I ftrtB which we are bound to hope and believe would be nude,
i^ht become most efficient inissioaaries to their countrytueu.

A few miles beck of the city, llie Ciiinese have aome planta-
dona of sweet cane, end manufacture a large quantity of excel-
lent browu and yellow sugar. I|iurcliBsed some as good as our
beet yellow Ifavanna, at about four cents a [roirnd.

The iminedjate cognizance of the king aecurea this port of
the empire from many of tiie severe oppressionsi, uuder wliich
more dietant lections conataiitiy groan j and tends in aeveral
other ways to increase its comparative population. It la, be-
yond doubt, the most densely inhabited part of the kingdom.
TboBe whom I deemed best abli; to iutbrui mc-,st(ited that witl^in
a radius of twenty miles, there must be at least half a million
of people.

On the third of August, 1836, came tlie sad adieu to the kind
friends in Ava, who for a month had left nothing untried to make
my stay pleasant, and aid my official duties. To Colonel H. Bur-
ney, the British resident, I am under many obligatJons, not only for
BttentionB and assistance in the acquisition of informatioD, but
for petEonal kindnesses, bestowed in the most delicate manner.
To him, and scarcely less to Mrs. B., the mission is largely in-
debted. At Tavoy, of which province Colonel B. had charge
■ome years, they were as parents to tlie lamented Boardman. At
Rangoon, where he has occasionally resided, since holding his
preeent appointment, tlicy were not less kind to the missionaries,
even watching tiiem day and night in their sickness. At Ava, our
brethren and their iaiiulies not only receive daily and expenaive
IcindnesseB, hut are ever so treated as to give them the highest
possible estimation among the people.

The first two days of the descending voyage passed delight-
fliU;. Hy boa^ too Hnwll for two, is ample for one, and I soon

116 BURHAH.

got all my matters nicely adjusted. Secure from interruptioD,
and beiug alone, little exposed to distraction, it was encouraging
to be able to get to work in good earnest, to arrange and digest
the hoard of memorandums gained during the past buEfy month.
It creates, too, something like a feeling of home to be, any whei8|
'^monarch of ail you swTey,^ and to be surrounded by none but
such as you may command; and especially, there is satis&ctioii
in reviewing your steps after an errand is pleasantly accomplished.
With all these advantages, the river, now forty feet above its com-
mon level, bore me along at the rate of four miles an hour, and
so loitily, that I could see over the country fax and near ; the
banks being but a foot or two above the flood. Instead of being
dragged along by ropes, under a sultry bank, seeing only such
houses and trees as stood on the brink, or, if under sail, ^hug-
ging the shore," to avoid the current, we now swept gallantly
down the mid stream, higher from the top of the boat than
the level country, and seeing the noble hiUs to their very base.
The whole landscape, re&eshed by occasional rains, presents, at
this season, scenes which are not surpassed on the Rhine, or on
our own more beautiful Connecticut

7th. Alas ! a traveller has little cause to give patience a furlough
because he gets a visit from pleasure. Here I am, the fourth day
of the trip, moored not ^ under the lee," but alongside of a
sandy island, just enough '^a-lee" to get a constant drizzle of
sand upon every thing, and into every thing, and not enough to
shelter us from the huge waves that render it impossible to do
any thing, while the wind has full sweep at me, and will not
sufier a paper to lie in its place. The men have done their best
to " keep moving ; " but the wind defies both oars and tide. Yes-
terday we had much ado to make headway against it, and it
probably will not alter much, as it is the midst of the monsoon.
It, however, generally subsides before night, and we must catch
our chances. If my Master be not in haste to get me to Ran-
goon, why should I be? My eyes, partly from over-use, and
partly from the glare upon the water, have become bad again ;
and as there is no one to speak to, 1 am ensconced here, deprived
of book, pen, and conversation. If this order of things should
continue, I shall soon have a satiety of my lordly lonesomeness.

August 13. Through divine goodness, I am now in sight
of Rangoon, having made the passage in eleven days, vnthout
accident For the sake of expedition, I floated a good deal in the
night, as the wind then always subsided, and we ^lade better
progress than in the daytime with six oars. But the boatmen

e Mdlf iineBBy at doing so, and we were conBtontly aHBoiled
by accounts of recent robberies and murdei?. At one village, n
(bund in the house of the hi^d-man several persons who bad
that ailemoon been robbed of tlieir boat, and all it contained.
Frequently, as we passed a village, the officers would call out
that we must wait for other bouts and proceed in company.
Sometinies they would take a boat, and come out to compel
me to stop, aaying tltat, if 1 ivas niurdei'ed or robbed, they might
Lave to answer for it with their heads. I always answered that
I must proceed ; and, making tlieni some little preseota, ihey would
desisL On several occasions, they had no sooner lull me, and it
nas perceived along shore that 1 was going on, than a little fleet
of boats would put off| and I went abundantly escorted. Tbey
had all probably been detained for the sanie reasons, and, sup-
posing me well armed, as foreigners olwaya are, were glad of
my protection.

\Vhat a wretched government is this, which, while it taxes t
burdens the people to the very utmost, grants them, in return,
security for person or property ! Hence the huddling togetlicr
liltle wretched ^■illagea. A BuruMn with any thing to lose woi
not dare to live on a farm even one mile from a village. No si
cose probably exists in the empire. The very poorest, and tha
Karens, who ere always very poor, vennire to live in Tillages of
three or four houses in the jungle, and cultivate patches of rice.
The people at large live in the bondage of coiialaut Ibiu'. Not
only is thieving common, but robbing by bonds. Thirty or fifty
men, well armed and disguised, surround a house, while a de-
tachment pltindera it, and permit no one to go to their aid. On
[he rivers, robberies are even more frequent, as the chance of de-
tection is less. We have scarcely a missionary family that has
not been robbed. So much was said, by some of my kind Eng-
lish friends in Rangoon, of the folly and danger of going un-
armed, as I had hitherto done, and of the imputations which
would be cast upon tJian, if they sufiered me to go in this man-
lier, that I consented to borrow a pair of pistols and a bag of
cartridges. I never opened my bag of cartridges till to-day, when,
seeing alligators along shore, and desirous to see if they were as
impenetrable as travellers assert,! went to my bag, but found they
were all musket cartridges, and not one would go in ! Surely, in
dosing this part of my mission, 1 may sing of the mercy of the
Lord, and cherish an increased confidence that his goodness wiU
lead me " all my journey through."

118

CHAPTER VL

Chittagong — Cox^s Bazar — Akyab — Kyouk Phyoo — Ramree — Ameak

There being no mode of getting into the Amoan taid CtaSSiL''
gong proTinces but by way of Ci^cutta, my next voyage was lo
that city ; but to avoid disjoining the notes On Bunnah, I post-
pone any account of Bengal, and will finish, in this chapter, tuf
travels on this side of the bay.

I embarked, November 27, 1836, from Calcutta fbr Chittagong.
The voyage consumed a fi)rtnight

This town lies about ten miles £rom the mouth of the river, on
the right bank, and is the head quarters of a Company's regiment^
and the civil officers of the province. The Rev. Mr. Johannes,
who has labored here fbr sixteen years, in connection with Ser-
ampore, received me with great hospitality, and in a few days I
was provided with a passage one stage further on my vtray.

Chittagong, or Islam<^-bad', is situated on and among small
abrupt liiDs, which ftunish beautiful sites for the mansions of the
English, some of which command a view of the sea. The na-
tives live along the valleys, among plaintain, olive, mango, orange,
and almond trees, with neat gardens of esculents. The streets
are in good order, and the bazar abundantly supplied with every
sort of domestic and foreign produce. The town includes 12,000
people, and immediately adjacent are many populous villages.
The language, the mode of building, and the general aspect of
every thing, is decidedly Bengalee. About three hundred ves-
sels, chiefly brigs of from forty to a hundred tons, are owned in
the place, and many vessels from other places resort there. The
chief exports are rice and salt I saw lying at anchor several
large Maldive boats of indescribable construction. These vessels,
with a deck made of thatch, venture annually, during this fine
season, from those distant islands, bringing cowries, tortoise-shell,
cumela, coco-nuts, and coir for rope ; and carry away rice and
small manufactures. No missionary has ever been sent to that
numerous and interesting people.

Mr. Johannes preaches in English and Bengalee, both of which
aire vernacular to him, but devotes most of his time to a very
large school, which was commenced by Rev. Mr. Peacock, in
1818. It was intended, and has always been continued, for poor

cmilAQONo- 119

^VJbuwn Cutliolic cliildren ; but there have gcDerally been aftw
M Seogalees. Several of tbe pupils, on liniatimg at school, hnra
I obtaiDed plac«3 under govemnieDt. Only two scholars hav*
I erer been convertod.

I Accompanyiog Mr. Johannes into the bazar to preach, we soon
lad an Budicnco of ten or Meen, who paid good attention, and
■aked some questions, but eeeuied firnt in their own tiuth, A
Museulinan Yogee paaailis by, smeared with cow-dung und Gan~
gea mud, I felt anxious to converse kindly with him, and did aa
for some unie through Mr. Johannes. His countenance woi
aniious and care-worn, and he declured ihnt the sole object of
hia life TCaa to appear the severity of the angel of death. 1
pointed him to the Lamb of God, and endeavored to make clear
to hia underalanding the way of life. It was not neceEsary to
dwell on hia sinfulness and need of a Savior, for he was burdened
with conscious guilt. But be waa afraid to give up his auster-
ities, and depend on free grace ; and ended with tlie usual con-
clusion, that our religion is excellent for us, but their religion la
lieiter fur litem.

There have for ages been a mixed progeny of Portuguese in
Cliiltagoiig, who have multiplied to about two thousand souls.
They have two places of worship, and, at present, one priest,
who, being ignorant both of Bengalee and Englii^b, is restricted
to the mere performance of hia Latin rituaL This class ahow do
anxiety, in general, for the conversion of the pagans, and in many
caaea are less moral, if possible, than ihe heatliuu tbcjiisotves.

The diiitrict of Chitlagong is aliout 130 miles long, oml 60 wide.
It seems to hu>-e belonged origiually to Tiperali, and to )mve be-
come a part of the kingdom of Bengal early in the IGih century,
after which it was annexed to the Mogul dominions. It waa
ceded to the Company by JaSer Ali Khan in 1760. The popu-
talian is about 1,000,000, of which two thirds are Mussulinana ;
and the residue chiefly Hindus. There were formerly many
Huga,but since the tranquillization and security of Arracan under
British rule, most of these have rettuDed to their counby.

Most of Chittagong ia fertile, and rice is largely exported
Salt is made and e^wrtcd in great quantities, and much is used
on the spot in curing fish, which abound on the coast. The in-
habitants are, in general, wrelcliedly poor, but the Company de-
rive annually from the province about 1^00,000 rupees. Tb»
taxes being collected not on the system of Arracan and the To-
nasaemn provinces, but on the Zemindar system of Bengal tbs
people pay perhaps nearly double that sum.

Finding a eoasdng-veflBel of about thirty tooi^ bound to Aky^
I embraced the opportunity of going that ftr toward my deedni-
tion, andy after an uncomfiMtaUe Yoyage of fire daya^ reached tiie
pla<^

A little to the south of Chittagong, we paased the mouth of
the Cniscool riyer, where is ntuated the Mug village of CaA
Bazar, containing perhaps six hundred houses. Here the excel-
lent Colman labored a few nMmths and died. Loath to quit the
place at the beginning of the rains, and spend that long period
away from his people, he remained, and fell at his post llie in-
salubrity of this spot to foreigners seems not easily accounted
for. It stands only two or three miles from the open sea, on
lofly ground, at the termination of the ''White Cliffi," and haf
no jungle very near. Colman's bungalo stood on a hill fiicing the
sea, and there seemed no reason why a temperate and prudent
man might not remain safely. But this whole coast seems dead-
ly to foreigners.

Of such cases as that of Colman, I have learned the particu-
lars of some twenty or more, who, trusting to caution and a di-
vine blessing on well-meant endeavors, and willing to hazard all
things for the heathen, have staid where others dare not stay,
and, sooner or later, fallen by the country fever. The Lord for-
give those, who, without having seen a mission, pronounce the
whole scheme mercenary. An idle, luxurious, and selfish mis-
sionary I have not yet seen.

No missionary has resided at Cox's Bazar since Mr. Colman's
decease. Mr. Fink has sometimes visited the place, and for a feW
months two native assistants were stationed there. About twen-
ty of the inhabitants had become Christians before Mr. Colman's
arrival, some of whom removed to Akyab. The rest are dead,
excluded, or scattered. The town must be an out-station from
Chittagong. The population is constantly diminishing.

At Akyab, the Rev. Mr. Fink, a converted native of Temate,
who has been a missionary here for ten years, in connection with
Serampore, received me into his large family with great kind-
ness. The English officers, as every where else, bestowed upon
me every attention in their power, and added many valuable
facts to my stock of official memoranda.

The city is situated on the northern mouth of the Arracan, or
more properly the Kulladine River, about a mile from the sea,
and has a spacious and secure harbor. It is the commercial me-
tropolis of Arracan, and generally has much shipping in port
Rice is obtained in unlimited quantities among tiie numerous

ASTiB. lai

ids irhich form the Delia of llie Kulladinc, and Coiubennera
B»y, ll coste, on an average, cleaned from the busk, leu rupeM
^ buDdred &rees, and tbe export amounts annually to mom
&Ka 300,000 rupees. Tbe price of paddy, or itucleaused rice, ta
iboul five rupees a hundred arees. A considerable qiiuiitity of
Halt is Bxported, which is here bought at three maunda for ■
rupee, or about two hundred and fifty pounds for forty-fiTe centa.
The population of the city ia about eight thousoud, of whom
many are Bengalees, and some Chinese.

The dJBtrict ol' Akyab comprises tbe whole of Arracon as &r
Kinlh ae Coiubermere Bay; but in all this region only ahont
twenty thousand donga are cullivated. Each dong of tilled land.
will produce about two hundred and eighty busijels of paddy,
yielding the cultivator aliout aevcuiy or eighty rupees, when
deliTered at market.

The number of mendicants ill tbe wbnlo district, according t<l'
ifas la£t censuB, is thirty-one Mugs, and two hundred and lea
MusBulmans. Of loose women, (here are but two Mugs, while
of the comparatively few Bengalees, there are over fifty. TheM
wretched beings are licensed for five rupees each per annum — ■
iJMem which ie purfiiied in other parts of the Company's territory.
In relation to this licensing prostitutes, so common, not only in
Indift, but Europe, 1 wish all coucerued in making such lam
«Hi!d be reprored in tbe language of that truly great man, Pren-<
(lent Uvright, in his sermon on the seventh commEuidment: —
'Who could believe that princes and other rulers of mankind
Imve taxed, and licensed, these houses of ruin ? Who could
be'ieve that sin would be thus bartered in tbe market; and dam-
nuion be held up as a commodity lor tmrgain and sale ; tliat tbe
ieslruction of the hiunan soul would be publicly gmnted and
»ntliorized as a privilege ; and that patents would be made out,
Bgned and sealed, for peopling more extensively tlie world.

Mr. Fink niaintains, with the aid of his wiie and son and a
Dative aRsistanI, three schools — ^one lor males, and aiiothor for
females, in tbe vernacular; and one for boys in English. All are
ia a wreak state, and present few encoiuaging appearances. No
conversion has occurred in either of the schools. He has bap-
tized here eleven Arracanese and two East Indians.* The whole
number of members in bi9 church ia about forty. Of these

■ The icnn now generally appliiHl in Uiose in whom aalivo ond EuropOM

128 BURMAH.

many reside at Kroo-day, a village on the other side of the islaod)
eight miles distant, containing ten or twelve femilies, most of
whom are Christians. Four of the natives are employed as as-
sistants, who daily distribute tracts, and preach from house to
house. None are at present known to be seriously examining
the claims of Christianity.

The principal articles of living are cheap in this province.
Bread as good as that of our bakers is supplied daily, at one ru-
pee for fourteen loaves a little smaller than those sold with ni
for six and a quarter cents ; fowls, one rupee per dozen ; ducka^
eight for a rupee ; best cleaned rice, one rupee per bushel ; eggi^
six cents per dozen ; milk, about fifteen pints for a rupee ; set-
vants' wages, six rupees per month, without board. Fu^ costs
about one rupee per month.

I embraced the opportunity at Akyab, as at other places, of
preaching to the few who understand English, (about a dozen,
including Mr. Fink's family,) and to the natives through Mr. Fink.
In addressing native Christians, (for in general none others attend
public worship,) I generally question them respecting the great
truths of religion, and find tliem, as might be expected, mere
babes in knowledge, but often very intelligent and firm. A
weekly exercise, on the plan of our Bible classes, would prove,
at every station, of great utility.

No vessel being ready for Kyouk Phyoo, 1 hired a fishing^^boat,
leaving Mr. Fink to engage me a passage in the first vessel for
Madras. With eight stout oar-men, and a promise of buckshee
(presents) if they made great haste, I arrived in twenty-three
hours ; the time being usually firom two to three days. The little
Hindustanee I endeavored to pick up in Calcutta proves eveiy
ttay important, but on this occasion quite necessary, as not a soul
in the boat speaks a word of English. The Hindustanee is the
universal language of India, understood by some persons in
every region, and spoken generally by servants. Foreigners ac-
quire it in preference to any of the other vernaculars. Fifty or
sixty traveller's phrases, with sundry single words, enable me to
get along somehow, but often leave me at a loss in cases of
special necessity.

Through divine goodness in restoring Mr. and Mrs. Comstock
firom late severe illnesses, I found them at their post in Kyouk
Phyoo, in health, and was received with great joy. A week soon
rolled away in fiiendly and ofiicial intercourse, and resulted, as
in previous cases, in a strong perscmal regard, which made part-
ing truly painfliL We visited all the adjacent villages, and set*

H KIOITB PHTOO. 183

Bed nirioua pluu^ which I tniat will prove ImponoDi and buc-
cesaful, 1 availed myeelf of my present improvement in voice,
lo preach to tlie military gentlemen of the station, and Buch
others as miderstood English, and bad an audience of about
twenty — the only sermon they had heard during ilie two years
of the regiment's sluy in Arracan.
Sir. and Mrs. Comstock arrived at Kyuuk Phyoo, ajid began

I the first labors of our Board in Arracaii in March, 1S15, having
preriously studied Bnnnan in America, oud during the voyage,
UDder Rev. Mr. Wade, He now bepns lo converse freely with
the DUtires, and to preach a tittle. He liae distributed tracts, and
Mnveraed with the people not only at Kyouk Pbyoo, but at some
riity or seventy vUlages in the districL In March, 1836, he began
two echoola, which have had an average of twenty-five echolara.
The repeated sicknesses of botli himself and wife have inter-
rupted them very much, and considerHbly reduced tlie atteud-
ancc. The scholars, with two or tliree adults, form Mr. Coin-
etock's audience on the Sabbath. Port of the day is spent with
tlie pupils in Sabbath school exercises. Several of the boys
evinced a good proficiency in reading, writing, geogrophy, and
arithmetic, and answered queslioas on the principal jwiirits of
Scripture truth with great correetnesa. No conversion is known
to hove taken place at this station, and but one individual seentB
to he seriously examining the claims of Christianity. This, how-
ever, is by no meatiB discouraging, when it is considered that
Mr. Comstock came here, nearly ignorant of the language, only
eighteen months ago, and, of course, has not been able to com-
muoicate divine truth to any advantage, nor has he enjoyed tho
■ervices of a native assistanL 1 prociuvd one for him at Akyab^
and:, with this aid and his present knowledge of the language,
have no fears of his success, if health he spared to him.

This port is a watering-place for numerous trading vessels from
Bassein and other places in Burmah, on their way to Chittagong
and Calcutta. They generally stop several days, and traffic a
little. Many of them carry forty, fifry, or even more men. These
oftea resort to Mr. Comstock's house, to bear about the new reli.
gion, and receive tracts. Some of them come from places which
DO missionary has yet visited. As the region round Kyouk
Phyoo is baireu, and thinly peopled, almost every eatable and
many manufactures ore brought from adjacent places, and from
Aeng, which extends still more the opportunity of distributing
Gospels and tracts. The employment on pubUc works, &c. be-
ing greater than the supply of resident laborers, many come

JSM BUKMAB.

eveiy cby woaacmf and return to their fiunilies at the begimdng of
the rains ; by whom the truth may be disseminated. The my
estmsive archipebgo to the east and north of Kyouk Phyo%
enaldes a missionary to reach much of the popuktion by mtqi^
in a convenient boat Thus, although the population of the tofwa
is small, not exceeding, probably, with adjacent villages, 3/)00
souls, it is an important location for a missionary. It moreovw
has the advantage of a European phyucian, and a baaff
containing every necessary.

Ramree, at the south-east end of the island, about twen^-fimr
hours' sail from Kyouk Phyoo, stands on a large creek of the
same name, eighteen or twenty miles from the mouth, and has
7,000 inhabitants, compactly located. It occupies both banks of
the creek, connected by noble bridges, and enjoys a large bazar,
and much commerce. Though very hot, from its being low and
surrounded by hills, it bears a high character for salubrity; and
latterly has been preferred, in this respect, even to Kyouk Phyoa
One or two British ojfficers reside here. It has all the advan-
tages, as a missionary station, which have just been attributed to
Kyouk Phyoo, beside having a much larger population, and
ought to be occupied as soon as possible. The large and very
p(^ulous island of Cheduba is immediately adjacent

Eastward of Ramree, about half a day, is a considerable sect,
who maintain that there is one eternal God, who has manifested
himself in the different Boodhs. They deny the transmigration
of souls, and affirm that at death the future state of every human
being is eternally fixed. They worship images of Gaudama,
merely as images, to remind them of Deity. They have, however,
kyoungs and priests, and conform to all the fiurman usages,
though rejected as heretics by their countr3rmen. There has
been no attempt made to ascertain their number, though it is
certainly considerable. Many tracts and portions of Scripture
have been distributed among them, and some have expressed
strong desires for the visits of a missionary.

Sandoway, the capital of the district of that name, which em-
braces all the southern part of Arracan, is situated on the San-
doway River, about twelve miles from the sea. It has a popu-
lation of 4,000, chiefly Burraans and half-Burmans ; the rest are
Mugs. No spot in India is considered more healthful than this.
From hence a missionary might operate extensively, not only in
south Arracan, but up the Bassein River, and the islands at its
mouth, in Burmah Proper. The British officer there is anxious
for the settlement of a missionary, and would affi^rd him eveiy

125

posflible facility. It is the only apot, beside those which have
teea nameil, where a taissioDary could hope to live during ttie
Bcfcly season ; except perhapa Aeng, where a Uritish cominia-
aoner, &,c. reaide throughout tlie year, tliough ai gr^at liuzanL
\d officer haa been able to retain IJa heulth tJiere. and several
bare died.

Of the province of Arracan, 1 need not add much to tha
remarks on particular disiricta which have already been given.
Il is called, by the natives, Rethein, and is lx>unded nortli by tlio
Giver NasJ^ and a line from near its sources, eastward to the
A-nou-pec-too-miou, or Yomadong Moiiiilains, which divide it
fioFU Burmah ibe whole length down to Cape Negrais. Un the
"est ia the BayofBengaL The length ia(ibom470 niilca. The
breadth never exceeds 100, and sometimes is ouly 10, — average
nbout €0. It is eslimnted to contain about 17,000 square milee^
of which but one twenty-fourtli part is cultivated, thougli olmoal
CTery port is capable of tillage.

The population is usually given in books at 300,000, but,
by the last official returns, is only 337,000. The country is cU-
rided into four districts, viz. Akyab, Itamrce, 3andoway, and
Aeng; of which Akyab has 108,16(3 inhabiiants; Ramree, G3,9»4 ;
Sandoway, 22,976 ; and Aeng, 11,731. In addition to these, there
are hill tribes, not regularly numbered, aiuouuling to about
25,000.

Tbc country appears to have preserved ila indejiendpni^c from
Ibe earliest periods, though often invaded and ovemm, tor a
dme, by ita more powerful neighbors. In 1763, Hinderagyee,
emperor of Burmah, resolved on annexing it to his dominions.
Raieing an overwhelming force, he invaded it in various placea,
both by sea and land, and, though vigorously resisted, completely
conquered all the more level portions on the sea-board, and took
the monarch prisoner. Several hill tribes, however, rerauoed
free, and do so to this day.

Among the spoil on this oceauon, the most valued articles, and
Ihoee which perhaps had a large share in inducing the war, were
a colossal bronze image of Boodh, and a cannon measuring
thirty feet long, and ten inches in calibre. These were trans-
ported in triumph to Umerapoora, the then capital, and are still
ibonn there with much piide.

Since the cession of the country to the British, the descend-
ants of the old royal lamily of Arracan have several times en-
deavored to regain the government. During the present year,
(1636,) an attempt ofthe kind was made. Some of the bill tribes,

196 BCBMAH.

and various robbers, &c^ joined the com^irators, and an ansjr oC
considerable force was mustered. Some Tillages were bani}
and the city of Arracan taken; but the sepoys drove tlisii
fhom the place without coming to any pitched battle^ and %it
leaders at length took reftige in Bnrmidi, and ended the struggls.
The government at Ava has given up most of the chiefi^vrliaaie
now in prison at Akyab.

This province has always been deemed particularly unhealAy
to foreigners, though the natives have as few diseases, and as
little sickness, as in other parts of Burmah. Kyouk Pliyoo,
Ramree, and Sandoway, are certainly salubrious points, partkn
ularly the latter. Most of the fece of the country is ruggsd
mountain, covered with forest and jungle. The soil of the km
lands is luxuriant, and well watered by beautiful streams from
the mountains. The coast is particularly desolate ; and except
at three or feur places, shows no sign of any inhabitant The
ranges of hills along the sea-board are composed of gray sand-
stone, intermixed with ferruginous clay. Coral abounds along
the whole coast

The proximity of the mountains to the sea precludes large
rivers. The only one of importance is the Kulladine, which
rises about in the parallel of Chittagong, and, after a soudierly
course of 250 miles, including its windings, disembogues by. sev-
eral mouths, the principal of which is at Akyab. The Arracan
River discharges by the same delta. The innimierable islands
which extend from the latitude of the city of Arracan, to that of
Kyouk Phyoo, give complete access to most of the agricultural
region.

Arracan was once famous for coco-nuts, but in former wars
they were nearly exterminated. There are now scarcely any
trees of this sort in the province, and quantities are imported.
The fruits and vegetables are much the same as in Burmah, but
in general less abundant, and of inferior quality. Oranges (called
by the natives sweet limes) are very plenty and excellent The
proper lemon, I was told, is not found, but there are sour limes
as large as ostrich eggs, Avith skin as thick as that of the shat-
tuck. In some places there are mangoes, and the jack is pretty
common. The wild fig is excellent Other fruits are much the
same as in Burmah, but scarcer and of inferior quality. The
annual fall of rain is about two hundred inches. The seasons
are the same as those of Pegu.

Arracan was formerly the principal city, and very large. It is
now reduced to 3^000 inhabitants, and is still diminishing. Us

trade baa passed to Akyab, at the mouth of tlie river, a site i»-
iecced by the Engiish Ibr its advantageous position for faealtil
ind commerce, and uow rapidly growiug. The old city hsB
been always Iklul to Ibreignere, though a favorite resideiicti
with die Mugs. The Bumiaus, who used to come with
the goveruor when the country was their prorince, could not
endure it Wlieu the British took it and eelahlished a camp
there, two full European regimentB were reduced, in a few
mootbii, to three hundred men In botli, — and evenof i^poys and
camp- fol lowers from forty to fifty died per day. Perhaps tha
pamculnr circumstances of that anny gave force to the peati-
leace, fur nearly the same dreadful diminution attended tlie axmy
in Rangoon, t^oolessedly one of the healthiest places in tlie world.
Tliis country is regarded as the parent hive of tlie Burman
race and laugiiage. They are certainly much less intelligeol
than tlie Bunnans, and the country less prosperous, doubllesB in
consequentie of frequent and desolating wars, and long oppres-
sion. The written Imiguage is precisely the some as tlie Bur-
man ; but the pronunciation of many letters is so different, as to
make a dialect not very intelligible to Burinans. Why llio lan-
guage and people are called Mugt, rather than .irraoineiK, is not
very clear. 1 was generally assured that It is derived from a race
of kings, wlio reigned at the lime the country first became much
known lo Europeans. Tlicy regard the term »s n conliiTiililuous
nickname, and imiversally call themselvea Mtnnmaa. Tliia nams
they declare to be usurped by the Burmans, whom they call
Ouk-tha, or people of the low country. The Burman in tiun
takes this epithet as an insulL

Many Bengalees are settled in the maritime sections of the coun-
try, who retain their own laith. They are called, by tlie Armca-
neee, Kida-ytkeiru Their monds are &r worse than tlioae of
the natives.

The trade of the coimtty never was considerable, till since the
late removal of transit duties. It is now large and increasing;
lliere is no mint in the province, as erroneously slated by Ham-
ihoD, but Company rupees and pice are the uniform currency.

The taxes are very burdensome, and levied on almost every
thing — land, fruit-trees, fidhing-nets, spirit-shops, boats, buffiiloes^
toddy-trees, ploughs, hucksters, traders, physicians, astrologers^
the right of collecting wax and honey, of cutting timber, &c.
6lc All the monopolies are now abolished, except opium and
s«h. The opium-vender must buy only of government, and
BiUBt also pay twen^-five rupees per annum for a hceuse. For-

15IB BUBMAB.

merly the inhabitants were forced to make a certain quantity of
salt, and sell it to the government for two annas a maimd,
wliich was carried to Bengal, where also it is a monopoly, and
where none could be bought except from government at foor
to six rupees per maund — a clear profit, in that short distance^
of about forty times the price. The people are not now
forctd to make it, but all they do make must be sold in the prof-
ince, or, if exported, must be sold only to government at twehe
annas the maund. The entire revenue derived by the Company
firom Arracan amounts to about 600,000 rupees per annum.

Slaves were much more munerous under the Burman govern-
ment than at present, and modifications of the system have been
established very much like those of the Tenasserim provinces.
Such as were taken in war, have been released. Persona may
sell themselves for money, but cannot sell one another, or their
children. Fifteen rupees per annum is now required to be de-
ducted firom the debt of a man, and eight firom that of a woman.

Though the Arracanese are Boodhists, and as tenacious of
their system as others, yet they seem less devoted to its pre-
scribed observances. Little money or time is spent in religion.
I saw no pagoda in the province, except a small one, left half
built, near Akyab ; nor any person carrying ofierings, or attend-
ing to his religion in any other way. The kyoungs which I saw
are but wretched huts. There are, more in the interior, pagodas,
&c in greater abundance; but Mr. Fink, who has travelled
much in the province, has seen but three new pagodas in the
whole district of Akyab, for ten years past His opinion is, that
the influence of Boodhism is sensibly on the decline, while na
other system is taking its place. At Akyab are only about twenty
priests. At Ramree, which is the episcopal residence and reli-
gious metropolis of all Arracan, there are not more than two
hundred.

Among many incidents Dlustrative of the declining power of
Boodhism over this people, Mr. Fink related the following. In
one of his excursions, a man complained to him (Mr Fink holds an
office under government) of his neighbor for demolishing an idol.
The man defended himself by the following representation : — He
had been fishing at some distance fit>m home, and was returning
with a club in his hand to defend himself fi'om wild beasts. As
he approached the village, and was passing by an image of
Gaudama, he saw some of his bufialoes wandering into the fi)r-
est Commending his net and string of fishes, therefore, to the
care of the idol, he set off to recover his beasts. This object ac-

led, be returned ; bul aa he drew near, a huge luid d^

F unded, and bore away his Gtring of Gab. Angry at the image,

ud excited by his loss, he upbraided it for stupidity, and dealt

IfKUi it such biowa with his club, aa knocked oA' its head. Mr.

I link, of course, endeavored to ahow the folly of both him who

IlTeuerated, aud hiiu who had rudely broken die idoL

To COB who has observed tlie awtiil rerereoce paid by idolsr-

rs to tbeir idols, this incident ia not merely amusing. A few
fears ago, no mau in Armcou would have dared, under any
temptatioii, to commit such aD act, luid especially to excuae him-
Klf for it. This little fact, too, ehovva that, aa in Popery, so ia
Boodbism, though the more enlightened regard the image only as
m image, and a remembrancer of Deity, the common people pay
it, inily and litenilly, divine honors.

Some thousand of tracts and portions of Scripture have been
duitributcd in Arracan, atid the truth proclaimed in many places;
Iiut it \a known that large numbers of the tracts have been de-
stroyed, and no general spirit of iDVcetigation prevails. The few
native Christians iu connection with Mr. Fink are alj that are
known among the 300,000 Arracaneiie.

Toward the hills ia the Mroo or Mroong tribe, about five
|}ioueand. Beyaud these, on the lower hilla, are the Kyen^
amounting to fifteen thousand; and beyond these, on the Yoma-
dong Mountains, ore the Arungs or Aiings, amounting to ten
[hansnnd. Of tlinise tril«'S and others on the borders of Burmah
mention will be made in another place.

None of them have received the " good news," and litfle of
tliem is known to the British government MisaioIiarieB among
uther of them would be obliged to reside half the year on the
Ka-board, on account of the insalubri^ of their countty in ita
present imdeared state.

The return to Akyab was rendered less dreary than the voyag*
down, by the socie^ of brother Comstock. There was no mmre
room indeed ; aa, though 1 bad a larger boat, there were now two
of us ; and the monsoon being against us, we were much longer.
But Christian converse ia sweet in this land of idols and ini-
quity. As we now were obliged to stop at night, and for cook-
ing, it gave an opportunity of seeing some of the people in their
viUages, and presenting them the first tracts they had ever seen,
as well as walking a little among the solitudes of everiastiog
green.

The region between Kyouk Pbyoo and Akyab is an extenaira
and yet unexplored archipelago of small hilly islands, for the

130 BURKAB.

moet port uninhabitecL In winding among these, instead of pot-
ting out to sea, the scenery, though wild, is often very fine —

" An orient panorama, glowing, grand.
Strange to the eye of Poesy ; vast depths
Of jungle shade ; the wild immensity
Of forests, rank with plenitude, where trees
Foreign to song display their mighty forms.
And clothe themselves with all the pomp of blossom."

Laieson.
The shores for the most part are coraL Specimens of great
size and beauty, white, yellow, red, and black, are gathered here.
To walk on ^ coral strands " was not less new to me than to see
beautiful shells, such as are on mantel-pieces at home, moving
over the moist sand, in every direction, each borne by its little
tenant The study of concbology has long seemed to me to bear
about the same relation to the animal kingdom, that the study of
the coats of unknown races of men would be to the human
fimiily. But to see the creatures in their robes ; to watch them as
they sought their food, or fled to their holes at my approach ; to
mark what they ate, how they made their holes, and how, when
overtaken, they drew all in, and seemed dead ; how they moved,
and how they saw, &c^ was delightful. I felt myself gazing at a
new page in nature's vast volume. I rejoiced that my God is so
wise, so kind, so great, and that one day I should read his works
"in &irer worlds on high."

Some of these shells resembled large snails, but of beautiful
colors ; others, still larger, and more elegant, were of the shape
used for snuff-boxes ; others were spiral cones, five or six inches
diameter at the base. Each bad claws, which it put forth on
each side, and walked as a tortoise, but much &ster. When
alarmed, the head and claws were drawn inward so far as to
make the shell seem empty. As my ignorance of conchology
prevented my distinguishing common firom rare specimens, I re-
firained fi'om encumbering my luggage with either shells or coraL
The forest was too thick and tangled to allow us to penetrate
many yards fi'om shore, except where thei*e were villages. Re-
cent tiger tracks, too, admonished us not to attempt it Alas !
here is a fine country, with but one fortieth of the land inhabited ;
and the forests thus left render the climate injurious to the few
who remain. Such are the bitter fi*uits of war. War has made
this wilderness, where there might have been a garden, and given
back the homes of men to beasts of prey.

V Letving the sKores of Durtnah, probably forever, inflicted aOi I

I me no email pam. The dear list of naniea wlio compose a

btod of laborers there seemed before me as the shore re-' J

ceded. Persoual intercourse hnd been rendered endearing bg, '

intimacy, by mutual pmyerti, by official tics, by the kindest atteai-

object of life, and by similarity of hopes Ac

but wring my J

Ibe world t

come. To part forever could nut

hMTL

" 'Ti> Ktd to psrt, e'en with the thought

That we shnll meet again ;

A leraon with deep sorrow fraught,
How firmly, aileDtlj, is wrougbt
Affection's viewless chain.

I.ODg ere thai hour, we itisy have known

The bondage of the heart \
But, u uprooting winds alone
Disclose how deep the tree has grown.
How much they love is only known

When those who love moat put."

Happy I am to be able to bear solemn and decided testimoi^K
ID te purity, zeal, and economy of our missionaries and th^fl
wires. I have no where seen persons more devoted t<
work, or more suitable for iL No where in all Burmah have
! seen " missionary palaces," or an idle, pampered, or selfish
missiDnarj. As to the female musionarieB, I am confideDt that, if
[hey were all at home this day, and the churches were to choose
(gain, they could not select better. I bear testimony that what has
been printed respecting the state and progress of the mission is
strictly true ; though 1 foimd that the inferences which 1 and
others hod drawn fit)m these accounts were osaggerated. Every
tiiiuglhaTe seen and beard has tended to satisfy me of the precti*
<»M]ity and usefulness of our enterprise, and to excite lamentation
that we prosecute it at so feeble a rate.

Divine approbation evidentiy rests upon every part of the
undertaking, llie life of Judson has been spared so long, that
we have a translation of the whole Bible, and several tracts,
more perfect than can be fbimd in almost any other mission.
We have nearly a thousand converts, beside all those who
have died in the &ith; and sixty or seventy native assistant^
some of them men of considerable religious attainments. A
general knowledge of Christiani^ has been diffused through

» hrgB aectioiia of the empire. Sennl of dw Tomiiw
' a are now ao 6a sdvsnced in the languege, as to 1»
jiMt ready to enter on evangelicBl Jabors. Veiy extensive priitf-
iag epeiationa are now established, producing about two mifBoa
of pe^ies per month; and the whole a^eot of die miaaioii ft
UgUjr eucouragiiq;.

Tba Kttle churches gathered from among tiie heathen added
much to the seuae of bereavement inflicted by this parting. Hk
&ces of the preachers and prominent members had beconw
ft mil jar In me. With some of them 1 had jomneyed many weu;
miles. Through them I had addressed the heathen, and diatrib-
tited the word of God. To some of them I had endeavoind to
impart important theological truths. I had heard them pray and
preach in their own tongue to listening audiences. 1 had marited
their behavior in secret, and in hours of periL Not to love them
would be impossible. To part Stim them for life, vrithout pein,
IB equally impossible. May it but prove salutary to myself!

The couBciouBDess of a thousand imperfectiens in the dit-
chai^e of my duty, fbrme the principal trial Still there has been
good devised, and good begun, and evil checked, and plans ma-
tured, which I trust vrill be found in tiie great day among tin
things which polish noL

■I

PART II.

DIGESTED NOTES ON THE
BURMAN EMPIRE.

CHAPTER I.

Tbe Term India — Hither and Farther India— Boundaries of Burmah —
History of the Empire — War with the British— Dismemberment of the
Tenasserim Provinces— State of the Succession*

Before passing to other coiuitiies, I will here insert the
result of my observations and inquiries respecting the natural,
moral, poiitica], and religious state of the country.

The term India seems to be dei-ived from the Greeks, who ap-
plied it to the vast regions beyond the river Indus, to them almost
unknown. It is never given to any part of this region by the
natives themselves. Both Darius and Alexander pushed their
conquests beyond this famed river, though not so far as the
Ganges; and from the officers employed in these expeditions,
the first historians seem to have derived all their accounts.
Wlien the country, some centuries afterward, came to be better
known, it was divided by Ptolemy (A. D. 150) into " Hither and
Farther India ;" making the Ganges the boundary. This distinc-
tion is still observed, and seems exceedingly proper. "Hither
India " is but another name for Hindustan, including the whole
peninsula between the Arabian Sea and Bay of Bengal, and ex-
tending northward to Persia and Thibet " Farther India," or
India beyond the Ganges, embraces Burmah, Asam, Munnipore,
Siam, Camboja, and Cochin-China ; or, to speak more compre-
hensively, all the region between China and the Bay of Bengal,
southward of the Thibet Mountains.
The term " Chin-India," which has been lately given to this
VOL. I. 12

184 BUBXAH.

region, seema to haTO no propriety, and createa oonfilMb
Malte-Bnin increases this confusion by inventing the nnw
<* Indian Archipelago," embracing Ceylon, the Laccadives, Ifal-
dives, Andaman's, Nicobars, Moluccas, Philippines, Borneo^
Sumatra, Java, Celebes, and all their minor neighbora Thii
name is adopted by some other writers, but with very difbmt
boundaries. CrawAu*d, in his History of the Indian Archipelagic
limits it thus : — From the western end of Sumatra, to the parallel
of the Aroe Islands, and from the parallel of 11^ south to 10^
north, omitting the islands of the Bay of BengaL Of the coun-
tries which compose Farther India, Burmah is the most important^
and in all India, is second only to China. The natives call their
country Myamma in their writings, and in common parlance,
Byamr^ma, which is spelled Bram^nuiy of which foreigners make
Burmah.* The Chinese call the country Meen-tUru It included,
before the late war with England, what were formerly the king-
doms of Ava (or Burmah Proper), Cassay, Arracan, Pegu, Tavoy,
Tenasserim, and the extensive territory of the Shyans, extending
from Thibet on the north to Siam on the south, and from the
Bay of Bengal on the west to China on the east This territory
is about one thousand and twenty miles long, and six hundred
broad. It now includes Burmah Proper, the greater part of Pegu,
a small part of Cassay, and nearly all the Shyan territory. The
extreme length of the kingdom is seven hundred and twenty
miles, and the extreme breadth about four hundred.

The rest of Cassay is now independent; while Arracan and
the Tenasserim provinces, embracing a territory of about fiMiy
thousand square miles, now belong to the British.

Innumerable fables, founded on a wild chronology, make up
the Burman history of the origin of their nation ; which they
throw back several millions of years! The earliest probable
date in this stupendous chronology is the epoch of Anjina, the
grand&ther of Gaudama, which corresponds to the year 691
R C. In the sixty-eighth year of that epoch, or before Christ
623, Gaudama was bom. From that period their tables seem
worthy of regard, and are certainly kept with great appearance of
accuracy. There is, however, nothing in them that demands a
place here.

The seat of government can be traced back to Prome, which
seems to have been founded in the year B. C. 443. About this
time, the Boodhist religion is supposed to have been introduced.
Prome continued to be the metropolis three hundred and ninety-
five years, when the government was removed to Pa-ghan, where it

„1

mSTORT OF THE EMPIRJE. 196

cootinned nearly ttrehe centuries. Daring this period was es-
tabfiflihed their common vulgar era, the commencement of whidi
corresponds to A. D. 639.* About A. D. 1900. the goveniment
was removed to Panya, and soon afterward to Sa-gaing. Both
diese cities were destroyed by the Shyans in 1363, under their king
Tho-ken-bwa, in revenge for his father's being given up to the
Chinese, after having fled to the Burman court for protection.

About 1526^ the Shyans from the region of Mogoung invaded
I Bomiah, put the king to death, overran the country as fer as
Prome, and for nineteen years reigned at Ava over these acquisi-
tions. The Burmans then recovered their old boundary. The
dynasty at this time seems to have been Peguan.

About A. D. 1546, the more hardy natives of the highlands
threw ofiraUegiance to this dynasty, and established one of their
own &milie8 on the throne. Pegu, however, was never regarded
as a conquered province, but remained identified with the
northern districts. Soon after this, the territory of the Shyans
was conquered, and the kingdom began to assume a consequence
it had never possessed before. It was, however, much less ex-
tensive than now. In 1567, the Burmans, aided by Laos or
Shyan tributaries, conquered Siam, and held that country in sub-
jection for thirty years. It afterwards regained its independence ;
but a deep-rooted enmity remained between the two nations, and
war frequently recurred.

About the year 1740, the Peguans, gathering a strong faction
in Prome and Martaban, raised the standard of revohitioii. For
twelve years, a ferocious and obstinate civil war distressed the
country. At length, being aided by the Portuguese, the Peguans
pushed their conquests to the metropolis, which surrendered at
discretion. Dweep-dee, the king, was made prisoner, and a
southern king once more assumed the throne. But a year had
scarcely elapsed, before Alompra, (more properly spelled ,/Houng
Pra^) the courageous chief of 3Ioke-so-l)o,t gathering a few in-
trepid adliereuts, commenced a resisttmce which issued in a rev-
olution. After some minor successes, his countrymen flocked to
his standard, and marching to Ava, that city fell into his hands.
Extraordinary courage, prudence, and wisdom, marked his move-
ments ; success every where followed ; and, after a sanguinary
war of several years, Peguan authority was once more subverted,
and has never since been ascendant.

* April, 1838, was the commencement of iheir year 1200.
t A small village, twelve miles north of Ava, ajid the same diiitance back
from the river.

Alompra, of ooarae, letamed his preemineiioe, and took p»
■MOon of the throne he had estaUiahed. Proceeding in Ui
auoceaafui career, he attacked Munipore or Caasay, and rednoeA
to complete subjection the Shyana. With scarcely any causoi ki
attacked and conquered Tavoy, then an independent VingAini.
Hie Tavoyers, however, instigated by Siam, who was jealous d.
her growing neighbor, revolted, and were aided by many Pegum
and Siamese. Alompra soon crushed the rebellion, and adfav*
cing against StBm,invested Mergui by sea and land. It soon sob-
mitted, and with it the ancient city of Tenasserim.

AAer resting and refreshing his army at the latter place, and
e^ctuaUy reducing the entire province, he passed through the
whole length of Siam, and invested its capitaL This was on ihe
point of yielding, which without doubt would have been followed
by his annexing the whole country to his dominions, when he
was seized with violent illness, and died in a few days, aged fifty
years. The &ct was concealed from the army, which broke iqp
its camp in good order, and returned without much molestation.
On arriving at Martabon, in his own dominions, then a great city,
the sad disclosure was made, and the frmeral rites took place.
Siam has never recovered the province of MerguL

Alompra was succeeded by his eldest son, Nam-do-gyee-pra,
who made Sagaing again the capital, but reigned only four years.
His death brought to the throne Shen-bu-yen, the next younger
Ivother. He removed the capital again to Ava, and reigned
twelve years with considerable eclat, though he was regarded as
a profligate prince. He invaded and conquered Cassay, sup-
pressed a revolt among the Shyans, and added to his Shyan domin-
ions the region of ZemmaL In 1767, the Chinese, elated with their
recent conquests in Bukharia, seemed resolved to annex Burmah
to their already vast empire. An immense army crossed the
frontier, and, after a few skirmishes, approached the capital ; but
after being reduced to extremity for want of provisions, they
were routed in a pitched battle, and so many made prisoners that
few escaped to report the disaster. A second army shared a
similar fate, and the two countries have since lived in peace.

On application of the Shyans at Zandapori for aid against the
Siamese, the Burman king sent a large army into Siam, which
reduced the country to great straits, and again took Ayut^hia, the
then capital. The Siamese give a horrid description of the
conduct of the conquerors, though not unlike other histories of
Eastern warftire. Plunder and slaves seem to have been the
chief objects ; and, in getting the former, every atrocity seems to

BISTORT OF THE EMFIRJE. 137

liTB been committed. Shenbuyen prepared, in 1771, another
opedition against Siam, which failed in consequence of disaflfeo
tioQ in the army, a large part of which was raised in Martaban
and Tavoy.

Shenbuyen died in 1776. He was succeeded by his son Shen-
go-za, who, after a reign of five years, was assassinated in a
ffltitiny of his officers. These placed on the throne Moung*
moong, sometimes called Poumrgo-zaJ^ from the place of his resi-
dence, son of Namdogyee. This man was almost an idiot; but,
having been brought up by this faction, and being thoroughly
under their influence, was deemed a fit tool for their ambitious
projects. But he was too imbecile, and his party too discordant,
to resist the aspiring energies of Men-der-a-gyee, fourth son of
Alompra, who now claimed the throne of his fitther. Moung;
moung was seized and imprisoned, and, on the eleventh day of
his reign, was publicly drowned^ in conformity to the Biuman
mode of executing members of the royal family. Forty of the
late king's wives, with all their children, were placed in a separate
building, and blown up with gunpowder. With many other cm*
elties he confirmed himself in the kingdom.

Menderagyeef vms in the forty-fourth year of his age (A. D.
1782) when he found himself seated on the throne of his distin-
guished &ther. He soon detected several conspiracies — one bj
a general in the army, who was put to death ; another, by a de-
scendant of the former dynasty, was near proving successful.
This last effort having originated at Panya, Le put every soul of
that city to death, destroying the houses and obliterating every
trace of its existence. His reign lasted thirty-seven years, dur-
ing which the country remained in a high state of prosperity.
He founded the city of Umerapoora, six miles feirther up the river,
and transferred to it the seat of government. In 1783, he added
Arracan to his already extensive dominions. In 1786, renewing
the old feud with Siam, he contended for the provinces of Tavoy
and Mergui, which had revolted under the patronage of the
Siamese. This war continued till 1793, when he finally suc-

* It is exceedingly difficult to ascertain the private names of Burman
sovereigns. It is considered presumptuous and indecorous in any subject to
call the king by his youthful name. Indeed, most persons change the name in
growing up. It was often inquired what mj' name was when a child, and
great surprise exhibited to find that it remained unchanged.

t " Gyee " is the term for Great, and " Pra " is Lord, or an object of rever-
ence. The expression Great Lord is thus a general term for royalty, like
Pharaoh, or Cesar, but has been appropriated to this monarch.

12*

138 BURMAB.

ceeded, and the proyinces continued to be a part of Burmah till
given up to the British at the close of the late war. The Siameae»
however, several times made irruptions into these provinces, held
them a few weeks, and retired with what spoil and captives thoy
could carry away. In 1810, he fitted out a respectable armament
to take Junk Ceylon from the Siamese, and for a time held pos-
session. But the enemy soon mustered a formidable force, and
compelled the Burmans to surrender. On this occasion, some of
the chiefs were barbarously beheaded, and others carried to Ban-
kok to work in chains, where Crawfurd saw some of them so en^
ployed iu 1822.

This monarch seems at first to have been inclined to be re-
ligious, or at least to have suffered strong compunctions fixr the
violent and murderous manner in which he came to the throne.
In the second year of his reign, he built the costly temple called
Aong-mye-lo-ka, at Sagaing, and gave it four hundred and forty
slaves. He studied the Bedagat, consorted much with priests,
built various religious structures, and commenced the stupendous
pagoda at Mengoon, which, if finished, would equal in size some
of the Egyptian pyramids. At length he knew so much of the
books and the priests as to overthrow all his piety, and exasperate
him against the whole system of popular religious belie£ He
built and gave gifts no more. The immense edifice at Mengoon
was left unfinished on the pretext that the Brahminical astrolo-
gers predicted his death as soon as it should be completed — a
decision obtained probably by himself He proclaimed the
priests to be utterly ignorant, idle, and luxurious, reprobated their
fine houses, and finally issued an edict expelling them all from
their sumptuous abodes, and requiring them to live according to
their neglected rules, or return to labor. For a long time, there
was scarcely a priest to be seen ; but, fidling into his dotage, and
dying soou after, in his eighty-first year, things reverted to their
former order, and they now are as numerous as ever.

The thi'one was ascended, in 1819, by Nun-sun, (literally, **he
enjoys a palace,") grandson to Menderagyee. His father had
long been heir apparent, and was eminently loved and revered
by the people, but died before the throne became vacant The
king inunediately adopted Nunsun as his successor, to the ex-
clusion of his own sons. The kingdom had now become exten-
sive and powerful, embracing not only Ava and Pegu, but Tavoy,
Tenasserim, Arracan, and Munipore. Cachar, Assam, Jyntea,
and part of Lao, were added by Nunsun.

He was married in early life to a daughter of his uncle, the

BI8T0RT OF THE EMPIBX* 139

UekaitL prince; but one of his inferior wives, daughter of a
comptanJdvely humble officer, early acquired great ascendency
over his mind, and, on his coming te the throne, was publicly
crowned by his side. On the same day, the proper queen was
«mt out of the palace, and now Uves in obscurity. His plans for
fleeuriug the succession show that he was aware that even the
late king*s will would not secure him from powerful opposition.
!Ilie king's death was kept secret for some days, and the interval
employed to station a multitude of adherents in different parts
of the city, to prevent any gatherings. On announcing the de-
mise, the ceremony of burning was forthwith performed in the
palace-yard, at which he appeared as king, with the queen by
bis side, under the white umbrella, and at once took upon him-
self all the Hmctions of royalty. Several suspected princes were
soon after executed, and many others deprived of tdl their es-
tates. Some of the latter still live at Ava, subsisting by daily la-
bor. The Mekara prince, his Uncle, either became or feigned to
be insane, and his papers showing no indications of his having
interfered in pohtics, he was spared. He became rational two
years afterward, and has since devoted himself to literature. My
interview with this prince is mentioned page 102. Two years
after his accession, the king resolved to restore the seat of
government to Ava. To this he was induced partly from the
great superiority of the latter location, partly from the devastation
of a fire which burnt a great part of Umerapoora, with the
principal public buildings, partly from a desire to erect a more
splendid palace, and partly (perhaps not least) from tlie ill omen
of a vulture lighting on tlie royal spire. The gieater part of his
time, for tvvo years, was spent at Ava in teniporaiy buildings,
superintending in person the erection of a palace, twice the size
of the old one, and other important buildings. During this
period, many citizens, especially those who had been burnt out,
and numbers of the court, settled in the new city, and the place
became populous. On completing the palace, (Fobruar} , 1824,)
the king returned to Umerapoora, and, after brilliant parting
festivities, came from thence, with great pomp and ceremony,
attended by the various governors, Chobwaus, and highest offi-
cers. The procession, in which the white elephant, decorated
with gold and gems, was conspicuous, displayed the glories of
the kingdom, and great rejoicings pervaded all ranks. Umera-
poora still retained a numerous population, which even at this
time is supposed to equal that of Ava.

140 BtmxiH.

It was but a few weeks after this ftstiyal Uiat news arthdd of
a declaration of war by the East India Company, and that tbelr
troops were aU-eady in possession of Rangoon. Difficulties at
the Chittagong frontiers had been increasing with that gofsm-
ment for twenty-five years, in regard to numerous emigrants fim
Burmah, whose leaders were averse to the present govemiMnl; •
and even laid some claims to the throne, lliey had been in flu 9
practice of making predatory incursions into Arracan, and r0ti^ ■
ing to the British side, where Burman troops were not allowed ti ^
follow. Some decisive measures of the emperor had recendy 3
ripened the quarrel, and the government of British India deemed \
it proper to proceed to open war.

The court of Ava learned the fell of Rangoon with surprise,
but without alarm. So confident were they of capturing the en-
tire British army that the only fear was that they might pred]A- •
tately retire ! Many of the ladies at court actually stipuktod
with the field-officers fi>r a number of white slaves, and the army,
collecting to proceed to Rangoon, manifested the most exubenat
spirits.

There were three English gentlemen at Ava, who naturallj
fell under 8uq)icion; especially when it was discovered that
some of them had been apprized of the declaration of war.
They were all imprisoned, and together with Messrs. Judson and
Price, who were soon added to the number, experienced fin:
many months the excessive hardships which are detailed in die
Memoir of Mrs. Judson.

Calculating on fiiendly cooperation firom the Peguans, who, it
was thought, would embrace this opportunity to throw off the
Burman yoke, and knowing that the best period fi>r rapidly as-
cending the river is during the south-west monsoon, the British
forces arrived May 10th, 1834, just the beginning of the rains.
But the innumerable boats ordinarily found on the river had all
disappeared, partly perhaps by order of the viceroy, and partly
fi-om fear. The boats of the transports were as nothing toward
conveying an army, and it became necessary to halt in Rangoon.
But even this was well nigh fiital to the army. The city had
been so completely evacuated by the affrighted people, that not a
soul was left but a few aged and helpless persons, who either
could not fly, or had nothing to lose. There were, of course, no
servants, no bazar, no provisions. Sick officers in vain ofiered
five or six rupees for a single fowl, and the whole army WBf
obliged to depend on ship stores. This, with the nature of the

8TATX OF THE BUCCESSIOIT. 141

and the &tigue of frequent skirmishes, produced sickness
among the troops, and some tliousands were cut off before any
advance was made. After the lapse of nearly a year, the army
proceeded up the river, receiving but one serious check, and re-
ived, June, 1825^ into barracks at Prome for the hot season. On
the third of November, hostilities recommenced. Melloon was
itinined on the 19th of January, 1826, and Paghan on the 9th of
February. On the 24th of February, a treaty of peace was
fcimed at Yan-da-bo^ and on the 8th of March, the army took
boats for Rangoon.

By this treaty, the Burmans relinquished part of Martaban, and
the whole of Arracan, Yeh, Tavoy, and Mergui ; and agreed to
pay the English 5,000,000 rupees toward defraying the expenses
of the war. At the same time, Asam and Munipore were
taken from them, and the latter declared independent, under
British protection.

From that time, the kingdom has been rather advancing in
civilization and prosperity. No longer at liberty to make war
upon its neighbors, its frontier is quiet and secure. Acquainted
better with foreigners, its pride is abated, and beneficial innova-
tions are less resisted. The government, though unaltered in its
model, is in some respects better administered, and commerce is
increased.

Th6 king is at this time subject to periods of insanity, and
has little to do with public affairs. The chief power is in the
hands of the Saliay-Men, or prince of Sallay, the queen's brother,
generally called Men-Sa-gyee, or great prince. He is probably
the richest man in the kingdom, Sallay being one of the most
lucrative fiefs ; in addition to which he receives the duties on the
Chinese inland trade, beside large presents from office-seekers,
and litigants in the Lotdau.

Several incQviduals are regarded as candidates for the crown
OQ the demise of the present king. One of them is the Men-
Sa-g}'ee above mentioned, who is a devoted Boodhist. He may
prelerto espouse the cause of the present king's youngest brother,
the Men-dong prince, who is married to his daughter. Another
candidate is the Ser-a-wa prince, the king's brother, next in age,
an accomplished and talented prince, remarkably free from preju-
dice for a Burman, and probably better acquainted with foreign
countries than any other native. As he keeps a large number of
war-boats and armed retainers, and has a considerable magazine
of arms in his compound, it is generally believed that he aspires

to the Annie.* No other man in the emi^ la n i]iialifieil flr
that high Btation, bo far as the fbreignera at Atb aiv able to jndget
The proper heir apparent, only bod of the prceent idng, it
popular with the common people, but has ahnoet no power ; tha
queen's brother holding hu place in the Lotdau> Though par*
mitted the inaiguia of his rank, he is kept studiously depreme^
and seems destitute of either the means or the qualificaticMH Ac
making good his title.

* This prince did, in fact, bocDine king, cm Uu demiM of tb law WJN^,

143

CHAPTER JD.

FmIwm of CkN«tf7--CauaBte---Moimtun8--<MkMn]s---RiTerf--«SQa^
Pntductuuis — > Agricaltare --^ Aiumals — Bin}a — Fishes — Reptilef •—
Insects.

The general features of a country eo extensiye, are, of course,
indelj dhrersified. It may be said of it, as a wIk^ in the lan-
guage of Dr. Francis HamilU»,* that <«thiB countiy, in fertility,
beauty, and grandeur of scenery, and in the yariety, value, and
elegance of its natural productions, is equalled by few on earth."
fle adds, *< It is occuj^ed by a people ci great activity and acute-
ness, possessed of many qualities agreeable to strangers."

The upper country is mountainous throughout; the highest
ranges being to the north and north-east of the capital The
scenery of these elevated regions is beautiftil, and the climate
highly salubrious. Extensive forests, comprising a great variety
of excellent timber, cover the heights; while the valleys are
jungle,f cultivated in many places, and abounding in fruit-treea
The coasts and water-courses are eminently fertile, and contain
the chief part of the population. By &r the largest pcntion of
the country is uninhabited.

The extensive Delta of the Irrawaddy is for the most part
scarcely above high tides, and evidently alluvial. Much of it is
overflowed during the annual rise of the river. Rocks are not
found, except a cellular orange-colored iron ore, which occurs on
the gentle swells. There are a few hills composed of the iron
ore above named, breccia, calcareous sandstone, blue limestone,
and quartz. In the lower part of the course of the Salwen and
Dagaing, some of the low mountains are almost entirely quartz.
Some hills, rising abruptly from the levels, are blue limestone,
of the very best quality. In most of these are caves, remarkable
not only for their natural grandeur, but for the religious venera-
tion with which they have been regarded, and the multitude of

* Edinburgh Phil. Journal, vol. ii. p. 99.

t The difference between a jungle and a forest ought to be understood bj
every reader of Oriental travels. A forest is the same as with us — land cov-
ered with large trees, growing thickly together, and almost uninhabited. A
jungle is exactly what is called, in Scripture, a wilderness j that is, a region of
many trees, but scattered, with much undergrowth, and often thickly inhabited,
though generally somewhat sparsely. The open spaces very generally bear a
tall, coarse grass, resembling that of our prairies, wliich, when near villages,
i» annually burnt over, to improve the pasture.

144 BUEMAB.

mouldering idols which they contain. An account of some oT
them is given in page 6L The great ranges of mountains, bodi
on the sea-shore and inland, are chiefly granite and mica-slate.

The climate of Burmah differs greatly in the higher and lower
districts, but is eveiy where salubrious to natives, where thejung^
is cleared. Ample proof of this is visible in their robust appearance
and muscular power. Foreigners find most parts of the ^Eiea-cotit
salubrious, to a degree not found in most other parts of India.

In the maritime part of the country, there are two seasons — the
dry and the rainy. The latter begins with great uniformity, about
the tenth of May, with showers, which gradually grow man
fi*equent, for four or ^ve weeks. It afterward rains almost daily
till the middle of September, and occasional showers descend
for a month longer. From one hundred and fifty to two hun-
dred inches of water &11 during this period. This quantity is
truly astonishing, as in the moist western counties of England, it
is but sixty inches in a year. It seldom rains all day, so that
exercise, and out-door business, may be continued, though at
times it rains almost incessantly for several days. As the sun
shines out hot almost daily, vegetation proceeds with amazing
rapidity ; and every wall or building not coated smoothly v^ith
plaster, becomes in a few seasons covered with grass and weeds.
This is the only period when any part of the country becomes
unhealthy to foreigners, and even then, the courses of great
rivers, and parts extensively cleared, remain salubrious. On the
subsiding of the rains, the air is cool, the country verdant, fruits
innumerable, and every thing in nature gives delight The
thermometer ranges about 60° at suniise, but rises 12° or
15° in the middle of the day. In March, it begins to grow
warm ; but the steady fanning of the north-east monsoon makes
it always pleasant, when out-door exertion is not required. In
April, the heat increases, and becomes for two or three weeks
oppressive ; bi)t the first dashes of rain bring relief

Between tide-water and the mountain regions at the north and
east, there maybe said to be three seasons • — the cool, the hot, and
the rainy. The cool season begins about the same time as in
the lower provinces, and continues till the last of February,
making about four months. The thermometer now descends to
about 40°, at the lowest This temperature is only just before
morning. In the middle of the day, it is seldom colder than
60°. The greatest heat is far less than on the Madras coast;
averaging, in the hottest weather, from 85 to 90°, but rising some-
times much higher.

MnVERALS METALS, &C. 145

h the most elevated distnctfi, there are severe winters ; but of
those sections no precise accounts have been received.
Much of Burmah is decidedly mountainous, particularly to the
north and east of Ava ; but few of the ranges have names, at
least not in our language. The natives seem to designate par-
ticular heights, but not entire ranges ; and Europeans have not
eq)lored these parts of the country. The barrier which divides
Burmah fi*om Arracan, called in maps A-nou-pec-too-miou, is
lofty and weU defined. The coast near Tavoy, and the islands
adjacent, are mountainous. But at present, nothing instructive
can be said as to this feature of the kingdono.

The mineral riches of the country, though known to be con-
siderable, have been but scantily developed. Gold is obtained
from mines in Bamoo, towards the Chinese frontier, and is found
also, in the shape of dust, in the head waters of all the principal
streams. It is not obtained in large quantities, probably only
from want of enterprise and capital ; and a considerable amount
is annually received over land from China. Nearly the whole is
used in gilding sacred edifices : the rest goes into jewels, or is
used to gild the utensils of the great As currency, it is scarcely
eyer used ; and then only in ingots.

The principal, if not the only silver-mines, are in Lao, about
twelve days' journey firom Bamoo, where they are wrought by
Chinese. The estimated produce is about 500,000 dollars per
annum. About a thousand miners are employed. The contract-
ors pay government a fixed rent, amounting to about 25,000
dollars per annum.

Emeralds are not found in the country, and the diamonds are
small ; but rubies, reputed to be the finest in the world, are ob-
tained in considerable quantities, particularly about five or six
days' journey fi*om Ava, in an east-south-east direction, near the
villages of Mo-gout and Kyat-pyan. 1 saw one, for which four
pounds of pure gold were demanded. The king has some
which are said to weigh from one hundred and twenty to one
hundred and fifty grains. Sapphires are very abundant, and
often of surprising size. Some have been obtained, weighing
from three thousand to nearly four thousand grains. All over
a certain size being claimed by the crovra, very large ones are
almost always broken by the findei-s. Jasper, amethyst, chryso-
lite, loadstone, noble serpentine, and amber, are also found;
the two latter in almost unlimited quantity. Noble serpentine
is obtained chiefly near Mogoung, where, at particular seasons of
the year, about a thousand men, Burmans, Laos, Sinkphoos, and
VOL. I. 13

146

Chinese Shyana, are employed in quarrying or mining it vaL
Captain Ilannay aaw boats laden with it, of which some miiWi
required three men to lift them. From four hundred to ax
Jiuudred traders firom China annually resort to the mines to por-
chase serpentine. The majority of these are from Santa, bt
most of the wealthier ones come by Bamoa The princqpll
amber mines are in and round the Hu-kong valley, on Ai
Asam frontier. It is very abundant ; but the natives, luiving nei*
ther spade nor pickaxe, and using chiefly a aoxt of spear made
of a cane, burnt at the sharpened end, they accomplish very litdOi
Most of it is carried at once to China.

Iron ore is found in large quantities, from which the natiiw
make sufficient iron for the consumption of the country ; but, prob-
ably from the imperfect mode of smelting, it loses thirty or foitf
per cent in the forge. The principal supply is furnished from
the great mountain of Poupa, a few days' journey east of Ava,
about latitude 2V 20^.

Tin is plenty in the Tavoy province, and perhaps elsewhere}
and lias been occasionally got out in considerable quantity ; but
at present little is done. Resort has been had, almost exclusive-
ly, to tlie gravel and sand of water-courses ; and there is litde
doubt but that a proper examination of the hills would show the
existence of extenmve beds of ore.

Lead is abundant, but is chiefly got out by the Shyans, and
brought down for barter. It contains always a little silver, about
three fourtlis of a rupee in thirty-five or forty pounds.

Nitre is fbimd in considerable quantities, incrusted on the sur-
ftieo of tlie earth, in several places among the hills north of Ava.
Probably, through imperfect management, the quantity obtained
is not sufficient to prevent the importation of a considerable
amount from Bengal, for the manufacture of gunpowder. Na-
tron is obtained in the same districts, and is used for soap. Its
price is only eight or nine dollars per ton, but it is by no
means pure.

Salt exists, in several places, in the upper country. From
eight to twenty miles north of Sagaing, are many places resem-
bling our great ** licks'* in the western country, and some small
■aline lakes. Large quantities of salt are made by leaching the
earth, very much as we do ashes, and boiling down the water.
On the head waters of the Kyendween, a large quantity is made
from springs and wells, the waters of which yield the large pro-
portion of one twentieth of tlieir weight in salt

Sulphur and arsenic are obtained in abundance. The latter

147

^^Hfe- sole ia all the bazars in its crude etnte ; liut for what it it
I nnd, except a little for medicine, I did not learn.

Petroleum is obtained in great ^luiiititLoid at YBynan-gyoiin^, on
the irrawaddy, above Prome ; and the supply might be largely
mcreased, if there should be a demand. The welle are iwo
miles back from the river, thickly scattered over a region of
Kveral miles id extent, remarkable for its barren aspect," each
producing a daily average of one hundred and lU)y g;aUona of
oil, which sells on the spot for three ticals per hundred viaa, or
ahdut forty cents per cwL The grosa annual produce is about
eighty millions of pounds; it is carried to every port of tlie king-
dom accessible by water, and ia used for lights, paying boats, and
rnriouH other purposes. It has the valuable quality of securing
wood from the attocks of insects. A boat's bottom, kept proper-
\y in order with it, is about as safe as if coppered. It is thought
10 be a defence eren from while ants.

At Sagaing, and some other places north of it, are quarries of
tnarble, aotne of which 'm very fine. It is a primitive litneetcne,
of snowy whiienesa, eetni-iranelucciit, free from all cmcks, iiud
capable of the highest pcriish. The elnioBt e:<clu»ve use made
of it, is in the manufiicture of images of Gaudama, and other
sacred objects. This etnploys constantly a large number of per-
sons. Similar marble, but of inferior quality, ia found in various
other places, and ia largely used fbr lime. It is apt to ccmtuin
homblend and mica, with occapional crystals of feldsjar, nnd to
be found in coimection with pure mica-slate. Limestone pre-
Tails along the whole river. Near the statuary marble quarries,
it is blue, of the finest quahty ; between that place and Faghan,
it is dark, bituminous, and slaty ; lower down, near Prome, it is
coarse-gruned and sandy. Graywacke ia also found, in numerotiB
places, from Ava to Rangoon. Steatite ia very abundant, and in
Tarioua parts of the kingdom. Pearls, of good quality, are often
picked up OD the coast of Mergui and its islands. They are not,
however, &hed for, and ouly such are obtained, as are found in
■hells driven ashore or lying above low-water mark. The pearls
are small, but of regular form and good color.

Petrifactions of wood, bones, and even leaves, are common on
the banks of the hrawaddy. So far as yet known, they ars
most numerous in the region of Yaynan-gyoung. Crawflird
transmitled to England several chests of these. 'Die bones
prored to be of the mastodon, rhinoceros, hippopotamus, tajrif,
hog, ox, deer, antelope, gavial, alligator, emya, and tryonLt
* See JournBl, page 91.

148 BumiLUL

■

Of the mastodcm, there are, evidentfy, two speeiefly and bodk
these entirely new, making eight known species of this ei- "
tinct genus. I picked up as many as I could transport, and iv*
warded them to the Boston Society of Natural Histoiy. Thflf
comprise fossil bones, and wood, and calcareous concretiani '
without any organic nucleus, and resembling the tuberous rooli *
of Tegetables.* The natives, as might be supposed, attribute |
these petri&ctions to the waters of the Irrawaddy; but thk '
must be erroneous. The specimens are washed out of the banki '
by the encroachment of the river, and are found in beds of stnd
and gravel, thirty or forty feet above the highest floods. Hie
matrix adhering to many of the bones, seems to be quartz and
jasper pebbles, united by carbonate of lime, and sometunee
hydrate of iron. Logs of wood, which have evidently lain kuig
in the river, are not changed. Bones are not found of the ele-
phant or tiger, both of which are now abundant in the country,
but of the manmioth, which has been extinct for ages, and of the
rhinoceros, hippopotamus, tapir, and gavial, which are no longer
inhabitants of Burmah. All these reasons conspire to assign
these fossils to an antediluvian epoch. Some of the vegetable
fossils are impregnated with carbonate of lime, but most of them
are siliclfied in the most beautiful manner, showing perfectly
the fibres of the plant The bones are in admirable preserva-
tion, owing probably to their being highly impregnated vnth
hydrate of iron.

Coal of excellent quality, both anthracite and bituminous, has
been discovered in various places, but has not been brought
into use.

The principal river in the empire, and indeed in all Farther
India, is the Irrawaddy, which rises in the Namean Mountains,
a range south of the Himmalaya, but belonging to that great
chain. After a course of twelve hundred miles, it faWa into
the Bay of Bengal, by several mouths, near Cape Nigrais.
Most of these mouths are navigable for large crafl; those
of Bassein and Rangoon, for vessels drawing five fiithoms. It
may be ascended as &r as Ava, at all seasons, by vessels of two
hundred tons ; and in the rains they may proceed to Mogoung
River, a distance of about eight hundred sailing miles from the
sea. Above this point, in the dry season, it winds along a very
tortuous channel, at the rate of two miles an hour ; but in its
inundations, fi'om June to September, it rises high, flows rapidly

* Similar concretions, often mistaken for petrifactions and stalactites, aro
fomid in Austria, Sardinia, Eng^land, and elsewhere.

B, and preEentsa comparalively straight coune,
I brenxltli of about a mite at Bamoo, aiid, in some placea
Lva, from four lo sU. Al Avn, llie rise is about thirt;^
;t At tliis time, bouts tiscenU moi^t eBsily, impelled b;

h-west moQsoon. It ia noicoiitineii to an luiiiual freshet,
ing tbe mofiBOOD, riees and falls three or four time&
aiiks, between Ava and Rangoon, are numerous villages
s, some of them very large. Large villages and towns
established a little back from tlie river, by which tfas .
□ts avoid many exactions of boat'Scrvice, both in ]iea(» j

Salwen, or Martaban River, rises among the some Toogea
niginate tbe Irrawaddy, the Burampooter, the Meinam,
gieal Camboja rivers. In the first part of its course, it is
,ouk-chang by tlie Chinese. It has a courw of several
Imiles, aod disembogues by tvro mouths, one at tbe north
Island, and the other at the south. The nortiiem chan-
jgh very wide, is navigable only tor small lioata.

The Kyendween rises
near ilie sources of tbe
Irrawoddy, and, after wa-
tering tlie Kubo valleyi
and passing through some
of the best and most pop-
ulous parts of Burmah,
enters the Irrawaddy
about fifty miles below
Ava. As the jimction of
this important river has
been regularly surveyed
by Lieutenant Wilcoi, 1
give a map of that section
of the IrrBwaddy reduced
from his.

The Setang River
makes, at its mouth, an
imposing appearance up-
on the map, liein^ several
mifea wide, but is nearly
useless for all ptuposes
of internal communica-
continuous channel deeper than
a depth of from ten lo fifteen

150 BUBMAB.

feet The tide, compressed by the funnel form of the shores, sod
collectiiig the whole force of the flood from a great distance in
^e bay, acquires fearful velocity. Except at the lowest neapi^
there is a ^ bore " on the setting in of the flood, which suhjeets
small vessels to the most imminent danger. Some years ago^ •
surveying vessel from Maulmain reported that it had set her in
a westerly direction at the rate of twelve miles an hour!

The Myet-nga, or Little River, enters the Irrawaddy on the
north side of the city of Ava, and is navigable for large boats to
a very considerable distance.

The Mogoung River empties into the Irrawaddy in laU 24® fSP^
and is boatable for a hundred miles.

There are some other rivers in the empire, nearly as importut;
and some fine lakes, but the only good harbors now left to Bjtt^
mah, are those of Rangoon and Bassein. ^

The soil of the maritime portions of Burmah is periv^ipi-
surpassed in fertility. The inconsiderable fraction whiofa jpiul-
tivated, though after a most imperfect manner, yields not' <qb^
abundance of rice for the inhabitants, but a great amount ftr ex-
portation to the upper provinces. The paddy-fields yield gmier-
ally from eighty to one hundred fold, and in some cases, twjoe that
amount

Farther inland, the country becomes undulating, but is scarce-
ly less fertile, though for the most part a mere jungle. The re-
gion still farther east and north is mountainous, and bears the
usual characteristics of such districts.

There are said to be several deserts of considerable size, but
they have never been explored.

In this favored country are found nearly all the valuable trees
of Farther India ; but while the people are thus supplied with a
profiision of valuable timber, they are far below their neighbors
in the case of fruit-trees, and have them generally of an inferior
quality. *

The following list is by no means offered as a perfect catalogue
<^ Burman fruits and timbers. It is intended to show the re-
sources of the country in these matters. The information was
chiefly picked up on the way-side fi-om natives, sometimes with
the plant in sight, but oflener not

The scientific names have been given, when known, in order
that those who choose may identify the plant

The Da-nyan, or Durean, (dwrio zeheUdnus,) flourishes in the
provinces of Tavoy and Mergui,but not elsewhere in the empire.
The tree is nearly as large as the jack, and the fruit greatly re-

VXtFITAXUI pftOVDCTIOS*. m

nnUes it, but ta Hmaller, sesrcely attaiiiiiig the Hize of « mui'i
head. It ia eateemed by the natiTea the most deiicioue fruit in Indiiw
EitropeaiiB are not fbitd of it until after repeated triola. TbOM
ute permst, alwaya unite with the natiTea in their preference,
k contuna tea or twelve seeds, aa large aa pigeons' egga, which,
iriieD roasted, are uot inferior to ehesmuts. It is the moat coat-
)j fiuit ia India, and is never found propagating itself in a vrild
Rate. The tree is high and spreading, lives a hundred jears,
lod produces about two hundred dureans in a year.

The Bun-ja, Pien-nai, or
Jack, {artocarpuf inttgrifbliaf]
is thought not to be indige-
nous, but thrives well in all
the lower provinces. Its name
seema to indicate the peninsula
of Hiuduatan as its proper
country, and it certainly is very
Goimnon there. In the Teloo-
goo language, it is called Jaka.
It attains to the height of
eighty or one hundred ieet.
Bnnches, thick, alternate, and
spreading ; leaves, very dark
green. The full-grown fitiit
weighs from lliirty to fifty
pounds, grovviog not from the
twigs, but, iu young trees.
j«ii.ri« ud p™b. Ci^jjj jJj^ jIjJpJj brunches, af-

terward from the top of the trunk, and, when very aged, from the
roole. It is covered willi a very thick, rough, green skin, and is
full of white stones, the size of a pullet's Cfrg. Few persona are
fond of it at first, but by repealed trials soon become so. I found
it very indigestible. There are two kinds, which, however, do
not greatly differ. The timber ia very valuable, mid used for
musical iiistrunients, cabinet ware, and ornatneulal work.

The Managool, or Mangosteen, Igardma mangiutaiia,] grows in
Hergui province, but la not conimou. The tree is low, about tlio
size and shape of an apple-tree ; Icovea, dark green. It is raised
from the seed, and bears the seventh year. Some trees yield
iMually from a thousand to two thousand inungosiociis. The
fruit is genemlly deemed by foreigners the finest in India, and
indeed in all the world. Foreigners are fond ol' it tioni die first.
It resembles the black walnut iu size, and tlie i)oiiiegnniate in its

flxterin. A hall Ilka that of the bbek wdnut ii to be maarat,
and tb« fhiit appeua white, pulpy, gnpelika, about the aize if t
■mall plum, and haring one or two vety amall atcniBB. Iia taah
k loildl; acid, and exRvmelj delkate aad hucioaa, withcxa ■
tendency to cloj the appetite; and almoet any qiumtt^ Boaf
be eaten, by moHt peraons^ without danger. It aeema to fam
been introduced from the Indian Arcbipelago^ and ia &r ftom
Utslning in the handa of the Tavoyers the peifectitm it than

The Tharrat, or Thayet, or Hango, [mangifin
MUa,) called byTavoyara T^Mrngiee, is one of
the largest ftuit-treaa in the world, reaching
« height of one hundfod ftat or mora, and a
circumjerence of twelre or fourteen, aometimea
even of twenty-five. Branches thick, afoead-
ing; leaves, long, narrow, nnoath, ahimng;
flowers, small, white. The fruit ia delieloa^
about jbur inches long, and two widft; thin,
smooth, greeoish ekin, and very large, haii? atone. There are la
many kinds as there are of apples, and di&ring about aa much
fi«m each other. The timber ia excellent, and ia used fw
masts, pestles, mortars, Ice.

The Thimhau, Papaya, or Papau, [earica JMpqjo,] growa to the
height of fifteen to thirty feet, without bruiehei or leaves, except
at the top, where the fruit growa doee to the stem. Leaves^
twenty to thirty inches long. Fruit is of a green color, and close-
ly resembles a small muskmelon, with round black seeds, which,
when very young, have the taste of capers. It seems to have.
been introduced by the Portuguese. It comes rapidly to maturi-
ty in any soil, bears fruit all the year, and is exeeedinj^y prolific.
It is in^rior in flavor to our muskmelona. There are sererd
kinds, all highly prized. The sap of this tree is a moat deadly
poison, taken inwardly, "nie French doctors use it as a medi-
cine. When exposed to the air, it resembles salL

The Ong, or Coco-nut, {cocoa fouifem,) reeemblea other pa]m%
especially ^e palmyra or toddy-tree : the leaves are longer. The
fruit is too well known to need description. The envelope at
husk furnishes a large part of the cordage, called coga or coir,
which is not eui^tassed in eicellence 1^ any other, though little
is made in Burmah. From the nut, an oU of good qual^ ii
obtained in large quantities, used botb in cooking and lor light
The top of the tree is tapped for toddy by cutting ofT the end a[
the stem which bears the blossom. It is generally made into

TZfliTAUJt psonucnoin.

Migar, or aome ia drank fieah. In other coimtriea, arrack ia du-
elled from this species of toddy.

The tree ia acanse, paiticularl; in the upper prorincea, and
■Imoat entireljr wanting in Airacan ; bo that lai^ quantitiea are
impoited from the Nicobar Mauds, and elaew here, which are
ehieflf used in making curry. For this purpose the whole fruit
ia Bcraped, and the juice squeezed ouL The pulp ia thrown away.
IIk Coco-nut tree delights in a aandj soil, and st the same
daw requirea to ba much watered. Hence they are generally
found l^ rivera, or on the sea-coasL The Palmyra, on the con-
tniy, growa every where.

The Nep-yau, or Plantain,
(anua paraditiaat,) ia one of the
most valuahle gifts of Providence
to a gntat part of the globe, grow-
ing wherever the mean tempe-
rature exceeds 65°. The etalk
seldom esceeda seven or eight
inches in diameter, and twenqr
feet in height, beara but one bunch
of fruit, end dies. The stem ia
cut close to the ground, and from
the aamo root, however, the tree
IB renewed many years. The
leaves, when young, are the most
beauliiiil in India, expanding, with
a smooth Burfcce, and vivid green,
to six feet in length, and two or
more in breadth, but, soon aiter
attaining full size, the edges be-
Tbe fiumed-t™, come torn by tlie wind. The

flower ia very large, purple, and
shaped like an ear of Indian com. At the root of the outer leaf,
a double row of the fruit cornea oiit half round the stalk or cob.
The stem then elongates a few inches, and another leaf is deflected,
revealing another double row. Thus the stem grows on, leaving
a leaf of the flower and a bunch of the fruit every few inches,
till there come to be twenty-five or thirty bunches, containing
about one hundred and fifty or one hundred and eighty plantains,
and weighing from sixty to eighty pounds. The weight bends
over the end of the stem, and when ripe it hangs within reach.
Like other palms, it has no branches.

Humboldt caleulatefl that thirty-three pocdkb of iidiea:^ ini
ninety-nine pounds of potatoes, require the eame Bur&ee cf
ground, that will produce four thousand pounds of ripe p&ui-
tuns, which is to potatoes as forty-four to one, and to wheit m
one hundred and thirty-three to one. What a mercy is such a troi^
in a country where hard labor is oppressive by reason of hetfti
There are as many varieties of this fruit in Bnrmah as thai
are of the apple with us; some preferred for cooking, othemftr
eating in a raw state ; some sorts grow wild, but in general it ii
exclusively the result of culture.

The small-fruited Plantain, or Banana, {mum Mgrientumf) is
common in the southern districts, but is not much cultivated.
It is found wild, and in tiiat stats has seeds, which the eiiltivated
plantains never have.

The Coon-the, or Betel, {areea eatecku,) anotlier species of palm,
grows both wild and cultivated, attaining the height of thirty to
fifty feet, but seldom so thick as a man's thigh ; without limbs or
leaves, except at the top. Bark, smooth, ash-ccriored, and maiked
with parallel rings. The fiiiit is the size of a nutmeg, and resem-
bling it in structure.

Near it is generally seen growing the Pung, or Betel Tine,
{piper hdtle,) a slender annual, whose leaf, toudied with a little
iime, is the universal accompaniment to the areca-nut and cutch
fi>r chewing. It ii cuhivated on a trellis, like the grape.

It would be tedious to describe all the other palms, which are
exceeding numerous, different species being applied to different
uses, but all of them of primary importance. One of the most
widely disseminated is the cocoa w/pa. From this is obtained the
best leaves fbr thatching, called by Burmans dtme^ and by Euro-
peans aicqfy from the Malay word for thatch, and by them specifi-
cally given to this plant as furnishing the best It yields abun-
dance of toddy and sugar.

The Magee, or Tamarind, (tanuxrindus Indicva,) is not found
upon tide waters, but is veiy abundant throughout the upper
provinces. It becomes ninety or one hundred feet high, and
twelve or fifteen in circumference, and, like the mango, is planted
not less for shade than fruit. The branches extend widely, with
a dense foliage of bright green composite leaves, veiy much
like those of the sensitive plant The flowers are in clusters, of
a beautiful yellow, veined with red. The fruit hangs like beans.
The pods are longer, darker, and richer than the tamarind of the
West Indies, and are preserved without the addition of sirup. The
timber is like ebony, very strong, and used for mallets, by coolies

^^ TEaETABLC PltODtJCTIONS. US

Hit' bearing-pole s, &c. Tho young leaves, aa well as tlie fruil;are
uwd in curry.

The Touiig-pieD'-iitu, or MauoUiin Juck, grows like tlie jack, but
the fruit Dever exceeds the eize at a goose egg, and has iLo U
of a tart cheny.

The MafuD, or Marian, {mangi/era ejqtosilifolia,) grows wild ia
BiOBt parts of the country. It ia a lofly, epreadiitg tree. Fruil,
jdlow; tbe size of a plunib. Tlierc are eeverol vorleiies, of
which eooic are sweet and others eour. It ia an excellent fruit,
but does not grow in tbe up[>er provinces.

The Sabu-tha-bcy is one of tbe largest of trees. Fruit, a
gf a small peacb, red, very many seeds, hanging in cluslera
fiom the ti-unk.

The Palmyra {bonatut) grows overy where, but abounds
duefly in iho upper provinces, ospecially near Ava. Tlierc oj
scTero! vavicliea. It issues from the ground llie full thickness it
u ever to Iw — about three to four feet diameter, and gains a few
inches ia height every year, throwing out no hrauchcE, and bear-
ing leaves only ai the sunimii. It reaches llie height of about
Ibr^ feet; and sometimes, but rarely, fifty-five or sixty feeL
The lejivea are of great iize, standing out from a stem like th»
fingers of an extended hand. From tliis species of palm, the
leaves for writing are prepared. The tree comes to niattU'lty in
about thirty years, but often takes forty. Tbe male trees afford
juice or loiMy three months in the year, Iho female seveu or
eight, Gscli giving daily (rom one to tliree gallouf, which is
gathered by cutting off a shoot which would bear fruit, and sus-
peniliiij; a pot or a bamboo to ilie end. Most of this is made into
nwlasBes, iH- ja^ety. dome of it is drank fivsh from the tree,
when it resembles new cider. By standing a few hourB, it fer-
DiBOtE rapidly, and in that slate ia considerably intoxicating. It
is, I believe, never distilled. The fruit is black, oval, shiny, two
mchea in diameter, and used after cooking in a great variety
of ways. The stone of the fruit is a third of its bulk, and is buried
in the ground for the sake of the large sprout it produces, which
is prized as an esculent. £very part of the tree is made usefuL
The Bap is boiled down as we do that of the maple, and yields
Ihe tolerable sugar called jaggay, in commerce. Large quaoti-
tiee of this are made.

The May-u-ah is the size of an apple-tree. Fruit, excellent,

■ze of a plumb, purple color ; sweet, small seeds. It is said to

glow in the celestial regions, and to be a fevorite food of the Nala.

Tbe Aw-zah, or Guava, {pfidium pmrnftruTO,) is abundant in

156 BUBMA&

some places, but is not extended over ^e whole countiy, and is
certainly not indigenous. It grows to the height of twenty or tfaiity
feet, widi leaves of pale green, and beautiful, large, white MoflBomfli
The fruit is about the size of a pear, and a little yellowish when
ripe, fliU of hard seeds, the size of buck-shot Foreigners geDe^
ally despise it, as they do many other Indian fruits, which a few
experiments would teach them to admire. There are several
varieties.

The Custard-apple {anwma squamosa, &c) grows well if planted
in proper places, but receives little care, and is not so commcm
as its extreme deliciousness deserves. The fitut resembles a
large pine bur not yet opened, or a pine-apple cheese, and is
about the size of a large apple. The skin is thick, and the inode
filled up with seeds mixed among a yellowish pulp, so closely re-
sembling soft custard as to fully justify its name. Its Javanese
name has the same allusion.

The Ta-lain-no is a vine which attains a diameter of eight or
twelve inches. Fruit, yellow, i)ear-shai)ed, acid, with six or eight
stones, size of an egg.

The Zee, or Crab-apple, a moderate-sized tree. Fruit, size of a
large cherry, one large stone. Two kinds, sweet and sour. The
timber is highly prized for its fine grain, toughness, and elasticity.
The Zim-byoon (diUenia) is of several kinds. They are large
trees, but the timber is worthless. Fruit, size of a small plumb^
sour, red.

The Ka-ling grows twenty or thirty feet high, generally wild.
The fruit is the size of a child's marble, used more as medicine
than food.

The Theho-tharet, or Ka-shoo, Cashew or Aca-
jou, [pmarcardium ocdderdale,) is a spreading tree,
seldom more than fifteen or eighteen feet high.
The fhiit resembles a pear, but is rendered very
remarkable by a crescent-shaped nut growing on
the end. It is much prized by Burmans, though
not by foreigners. The roasted nut is excellent
The Kyet-mouk, or Cocks-comb, is a moderate-
CMhew-Nat. sizcd troc, found wild in most parts of the countiy.
The fi*uit is red, sour, the color of a cock's comb, and has similar
corrugations on the skin. It hangs in grape-like clusters.

The Zoung-yan is peculiar to the upper provinces. Fruit, size
of a guava, pink, full of seed, smooth skin. Fruit, leaves, and
root, are used as me^cine. The tree is of good size, but useless
as timber

^^P^e LB'rnoo is a email tree, tike a willow, groivini; only near
m bU water, and generally iu tlie very edge, twelve or fiflccii inehu
I in diameter. The blossom is very beautiful, a little like a tliietle,
very fhigrani, pale-green, large, umbrella-ghaped pistil, iiintt-
nwrable stamene, no corolla, but a thick calyx, which remaius,
■od holds the fhiit like a dish. Munkeya sre Tond of ihu fruit,
and are often eeen in the tree. The natives use it in curry.
'nml>er useless.

The Na-uah is a very large tree, lliomy. Fniit, deep red, eize
of a small plumb, skin very thin, full of hard, while, triangulBT
■eeds. Prized only by the Datives.

The Tlian-lwen, or Olive, grows plentifully round Mergui, but
not of very good quality, as it is entirely neglected.

The Lep-han growa every where in the upper provinces, and
ia one of the largeet trees in the country, ollen ten and twelva
feet in diameter. Tlie ripe seeds are couteiiied in podx, envel-
oped in a fine cotton, of wliich mattrassea are coinm^itily made.
Both bloaaoms and fruit are eaten, when young, chiefly in curry.
Timber inferior.

The Ka-no-zoo, or Saul, or Soondry-tree, (hoTetfria,) is a
much larger tree than in Bengal ; chiefly found on the tide
walers. Frail hangs in loose bunches, size of grapes, very
pleasant, one seed. Leaves, large, allemate, smiMlh, green on
the upper side, and silvery-white beneath. Timber, hard, straight-
grained, elastic, and durable ; used for mill woik, sjiokeg, shafts,
oars, &c- There are several species of this valuable tree.

The Theet-cba, or Chestnut, faulanea moriahamai,) is abundant
in the upper districts, but seems not known on the coasL

The Thit-to, (»anrforwTWn'ntKcuni,)a very large tree. Fruit, siz«
of an apple, with three seeds, yellow when ripe. Timber ia
used for most common purposes, but not much valued, being
Boft and of uneven grain.

The Lieng-maw, or Orange-tree, (cifnu,) is found in sereia]
ftrietles, but growing wild, as do almost all Bturman fruits, is
genetally of inferior quality. I believe the Burmans never graft
or inoculate any fhiit

The Then-ba-yah, or Lune, {ciiria, mediea, limdta, &c.) has its
Kveral varieties, and is excellent.

The Lieng-maw, or Lemon, {cUnu iinumum, &c.] is also

coinmon and good. The name in Burman, it will be observed,

i* the same as for the orange, though the term noeef is often

pven to the latter as a distinclion.

The Puinplenose, or Pomelow, called with us shaltuob, or

156 BUEMAH.

shaddock, (dtnu decummana^) is prized, but is rare in BunBoh,
though so abundant in most parts of the East

The Kan is a shrub, tiiree or four feet high, yielding 9. T^toti
£*uit which resembles a sweet grape.

The Go-nyen, a vine producing pods three or four ftet
long, containing ten or twelve beans, ten inches in circum-
ference. These beans, well boiled, are sometimes used ^r fooi

The Myouk Go-nyen, a smaller vine, bearing in its pod ht
one bean, the size of half a doUar. Monkeys are said to be wy
fond of it, but Burmans do not eat it

The Soung-ya grows six or eight feet high. Fruit, the siap of
an apple, elongated, deeply fluted, brilliant yellow, contains tea
f»eds in five apartments. Chiefly used to acidify curry.

The Theet-kya-po, or Cinnamon, (launu dmumwmum,) growl
wild, at least in the Martaban province, but is not of good quality^
doubtless for want of cultivation. A great variety of the laurus
tribe is found beside this cinnamon.

The Shah-zoung (aloe) is in many varieties. Used both fyt
medicine and chewing with the betel.

The Yay-yoh is a pretty large tree. Lea^ large, and very
deep green. Fruit resembles a pine bur, with soft and tender
covering to a solid mass of hard seeds, occupying six sevenths
of the whole bulk. When green, it is cooked, and when ripc^
eaten raw, as valued sauce to salt fish.

The Quah-lay, (mucuna prurienSy) a celebrated vermifiige,
abounds every where in the jungle. In a tender state, die
natives use it as food.

The Kyah (itdumMum speciosum) is a sort of lily, growing in
the water ; flower, very large, pink and white ; fruit is as large as
one's fist, forming an exact hemisphere, on the flat sur&ce of
which, about twenty-four seeds are imbedded, which, when ripe,
are black and hard. Prized for eating. The flowers are a fih
vorite ofiering at the pagoda.

Cherries and plums are common and good in the extreme
north-west portions of the country ; and in the extreme north-
east the apple and peach flourish, but are little cultivated, if at
all, and are of inferior quality.

Tobacco grows with vigor in most parts of the country: oflen
large spaces are covered with the wild plant The consumption
18 not great, as it is used only for smoking ; and then the wrapper
is ibrmed fi*om the leaf of the thennat-tree, and all the roots are
used as well as the leafl It is cultivated along the noargins q£
water-<M>ur8eSy but in a slovenly way.

^^ VXSETIHLB FftODCCTlOHS. Ittt

^^4eBide 'Uiese^ Burmidi has a great variety of fruits, such as
Owtor-beBii, anise seed, capers, cardamom, Fapeicum, pine-appl^
rsspberry, wliordel)eiTy, tomato, &c. I have no means of enu-
merating the entire list. Viailing tlie bazar at Maulmain, about
the close of the dry Heason, for the express purpose of counting
what might be there espoaed, I found more than thirty. This
was not the most obiindant aeasoD of fruits, but the contrary. I
presume there are not Ices than <Hie hundred and fifty or two
hundred friiita in this favored country, heside numerous varieties
of some of them.

As to the value of these numerous fruits, compared with
those of our own country, testimony difiere, as on other mat-
ters of taste. The Biuman and Karen who visited America,
deemed the best of our fruits very insipid. Americana at firat
sdmire few Biirman fruits, but those who persist in eatiug even
the moat repulsive, soon become fond of tbem. The enjoyment
of thcni, therefore, rests with one's self, as it does in regard to
drinking- the water of some mineral springe, or eating olives.
In my own opinion, India has greatly the advantage of America
aiid Europe, In her fruits, both in number and quality. The
plantain itself may he couBiderod an equivalent to almost the
whole of our fruits. It may be had fresh orery day in the year,
and, in its numerous varieties, makes both a vegetable and a frui^
of which none are ever tired, and by partaking of which, none

Among their edible roots, they have ginger, cassia, lic(»ice,
urow-root, yam, sweet potato, Irish potato, onions, gtfflic,
faparaguB, ground-nut, &c.

They aJso find in die woods, plains, and lakes, innumeraUa
esculents, in the selection of which the very children become e^
pert Most of these are prepared in the form of curry, and
eaten in stnall quantities, as condiments to their rioe.

The principal grains irill be mentioned when we comb to
■peak of Bgricultiure.

The country is scarcely less favored in valuable timber-treM,
aome of which have been already named as bearing useful ftuit.

First to be named among these is the Kewn, or Teak, {Itetona
granda,) which is here far more abundant than in any other part
of India. It is probably, on the whole, the most valuable timhw
in the world, both for strength, fineness, and durabili^; and
fa this country especially so, for being always safe from while
ants. It grows to an enormous size, attaining maturity in about
eighty yeara. Wood, reddish, and susceptible of a very fine polishi

160 BURKfB.

It is one of the few tropical trees which sheds its leaves annaaHy,
and at once. It has this advantage over oak, that, vehile that fatt
an acid which destroys iron, tiiis lias an essential oil which pre-
serves it Fruit, rough, brown, size of a cherry, worthless. There
is also another species, the teciona hamiliomana^ much smaller.

Next to the teak, for timber, is the Thingan, {fiapia odoraia of
Dr. Gardner,) very abundant, especially in the lower provinces
It is as tall as the teak, but less spreading. This, and the teak,
make the best canoes. This is the tree which spreads its
branches over the graves of Mrs. Judson and her in&nt But
that particular specimen is very aged, and decaying. It was called
the jHbpe-tree, in honor of a distinguished gentleman of that
name in England.

The Pee-mah (lagerstrormaf) is a very large and useful tree,
sometimes twelve or fifteen feet in circumference, preferred for
some parts of ship-building to teak. Lea( very small; fruit,
like a lemon, and very sour ; wood, reddish, hard, tough, and dura-
ble. From the bark constantly exudes a yellow gum, resembling
gamboge.

Turra-fee {calophyluni) is a large tree, timber excellent for
most purposes ; very different from

The Thur-ap-pa, or Tirbre, (quercus amherstama of Wallich,) is a
noble tree, used for all purposes as timber in the lower provinces.

The Pipal, often called Banniarij {ficus rdigiosa,) is the sacred
tree of the Burmans. Under it Gaudama is said to have become
a Boodh. It is conunon in every part of the country. The
branches do not descend and take root like the genuine bannian.
It is a very noble tree, and bears a fruit the size of a grape, of
which birds are fond, but which is not eaten by man. One of
these grows over the brick baptistery, in the mission compound at
Maulmain, extending its branches also over the street On its
young and flourishing branches the Burmans sometimes hang
lighted lamps as a deed of merit

The Nyoung-bawdee {ficus bcTigalensis) is the genuine bannian.
Roots descend from every part of the stem, and many of the
branches, which, on reaching the earth, become themselves trees.
Those which descend along the trunk, give it the appearance
of being enveloped in brawny vines, and afford a shelter, by the
crevices they make, to numerous insects and reptiles, while
mider the wide shelter of the foliage, man and beast may repose.
It is a favorite resort of monkeys, who eat both the leaves and
the fruit The leaves are dark, large, smooth, glossy. Its vener-
ated character prevents its use as a timber, in which respect it

161

would, however, not be very valuable. The tree is unconijiioii in
Bunnah, bul some fine epeciinena ore found at MerguL

Tbe Tay, or EbODy, [diospt/rwi ibatum,] is plenQ' in the upper
prorinFes, grotving genei'ally in the neighborliood of teak. Lea^
YOj Bmall. Toward the cloee of the dry seoEon, the leaves ars
L Sbiually shed, like those of the teak, at a particular season,
I VUDh distinguiBhes it pmnitneiilly, iu b country where almoM
a is evergreen. Little use is made of the timber. Tbe
l^fecimenl' brought to me were black, and of fine grain, but in-
ISHm to tbal used by our cabinet-makers.

The Teng-yet, or Ten-yet, Snpnn-wood, [catidjnnia siippffti,)
grows abundantly in the province of Mergui, and adjacent ]>artA
of Siain, til several ports of the Bbyan terriloty, and umoug the
mountainous regions of Mimipore. The full-grown tree Is sel-
dom higher than from fourteen to sixteca feet ; tliorny, bearing
a large yellow flower in the month of August ; leaves, etnull acid
of a dark green. It belongs to the same order of plujitu with
BnuU-wood, and has been sometimea so called. It makes a rich
red dye, and is esfKirted for that purpose. Tlie name is derived
from the Malays, who call it sapang.

The Shah, or Cutch-tree,(mtinoni caledui,) ia indigenoui, rising
Eometimes to tbe height of forty feet Timber, tough and dura-
ble, much used for ploughs, &c. Prom this tree is made the
catechu, cuteh, or terra japonica, chewed generally with the betel~
nuL' The wood is hewed into cliips, boiled, and the liquor in-
spissated till it becomes thick enough to spread oo a tnat, when
the drying is completed in the sun. It dissolves completely in
water, is slightly bitter, highly astringent, and contains fift^-five
parts in a hundred of taimin. Burmans make two kinds, the red
and the black ; both from the same tree. The red is preferred in
Bengal, and the black in China. It is chiefly made iu die neigh-
borhood of Prome, though the tree is found in all ports of tbo
country.

The Silk Cotton-tree {hombax eeiba) adorns many parts of tbe
country, and is oi)e of the largest trees. Its beautiful and soft
floe Is used for pillovrs, and thin mattrasses by tbe natives ; but
whether the wood is valuable 1 did not learn,

Tbe Par-o-wah is a stately tree, a foot in diameter. Timber,
very hard and tough, and of n yellow color. It is somewhat

■ The Bame srlicle is produFed in Malaya, r«im ibe plaal called imcaiia
gambir, and ia Egypt and Arabia from Ibe acacia. Il has lately been Bipailed
fiom Kngapore lo En^aod, in large quanlities, for ISDoiog.

168 BU&MAH.

scarce, and of but little account, as the Burmans have no tods
with which to work such a wood to advantage.

The Thub-byu {fictts) is a large tree, five feet or more in cir-
cumference ; pretty good timber. The fi^t, about the si^ of
a goose-egg, grows in a -tuft of leaves, like a cabbage ; used to
acidify curry. From it is obtained a glutinous oil, which dries
rapidly, and makes a good varnish.

The £n, or Ain, (dipterocarpus grandyhroj) grows tall and slen-^
der, to a prodigious height, throwing out branches only toward
the summit It yields a valuable resin, used in torches, and fiir
paying boats. The timber is excellent^ and is used for masts^
bridges, and long reaches.

The Kun-nyin-ben, (dipterocarpus,) and the Kun-nyin-se, are
two trees of the same kind, one bearing a white fruit, and the
other red. Both are very large trees, and excellent for planks,
boats, &c. The boiled sap is a very beautiful varnish. Torches
are often dipped in it, to increase their brilliance, and some-
times made of it, mixed with sawdust The varnish at Rangoon
costs, at retail, four annas a viss, or about twelve and a half
cents for four pounds.

The Theet-say (mdanorrhiBa usitata) is the tree fi*om which the
celebrated black Burman varnish is made, and which, when
properly prepared, is superior to copal. It seems to have been
first known to the English by its Munipore name, Kay-oo, or Khue,

The Tah-noung is a most beautiful, though rather small tree.
Leaves, very small, composite, lively green, rising fi*om the base
of a double thorn.

The Tau-ma-gyee (eUiBoairpus) is generally very large. Grain,
clear and straight ; timber, highly prized.

The Yu-ma-nay, (euphorldou) Large and valuable tree.
Wood, soft and light, but very tough ; and is used for turned
wooden ware, and light domestic articles.

The Tan-the-ah, (hopea Jlonbunda of Wallich.) Very large,
somewhat abundant, and a useful timber.

The Thud-dote, a very large tree, but not prized for timber.
Fuel, good ; fruit used a little ; leaves used to rub furniture, and
the body.

The Thub-boB (mimusops) is a large tree, valued in ship-
building. Fruit, size of a grape, containing one large seed.
There is also another species, (m. dengi,) which is called in
Bengal BocooL

The Pa-douk, or Mahogany, (sundenia mahogoni,) is plenty in
the upper provinces, especially round Ava ; found occasionally

▼SeCTABUB PROBUCTI058. 163

in Pegu. It grows very large, and is mostly of the branched or
Imot^ kind. Little used, except for their great horizontal rockets.

The Taenyo, or Fine, of several varieties, is abundant in the dry
and hilly districts, reaching a good size, often fifty feet without a
limb. One or two species are found in the Tenasserim prov-
inces, but not firequently. It is neglected as timber because of its
sofhiess and exposure to ants. Some turpentine is manufactured
fix>m it Pieces of it are every year washed down the Irrawaddy.
As all India now depends on European and American spars,
which often sell at most exorbitant prices, it is probable that
Burmah will one day be enriched by the export of its fir timber.

The Toung-sa-ga {myrisHca) is a very large tree.

Of Oak, eight or ten species are found in dififerent parts of the
upper country, some of them stately trees; but the abundance of
teak and of thingan prevents its general use.

Cedar is common and of a gigantic size on the lofty sununits
of the mountain ranges on the Munipore fi*ontier. In the
same regions, the Ash is abundant, and of the best quality.

Lancewood is common, at least in the southern provinces. It
grows fifteen or twenty feet high, very straight; bark, gray;
wood, light yellow.

The Me-yah {grewia^) is a middling-sized tree, of pretty good
timber. Fruit resembles the whortleberry ; two seeds in each.
It is eaten sometimes, but is not prized.

The Ne-pe-say-gyee attains a diameter of six or eight inches.
In the manufacturing towns on the Irrawaddy, perhaps else-
where, it is very much used to dye a fine red color ; and might
probably be exported for this purpose with great advantage.

The Thep-on is a large tree ; is excellent for fuel, but not greatly
valued as timber. The leaves and fruit are used iu curry.

The Mai-kai (marnja) is not a large tree, but is highly esteemed
for handles to spears, knives, &c. The grain is like box-wood,
but tough and elastic. Found only in the lower provinces.

The Kun-ne-an (myristica) is a very large tree, found iu the
lower provinces, on high ground, and therefore probably common
in the upper. Considered one of the best of timbers in the
kingdom for canoes, oars, houses, and most other purposes.

The Kee (syndesmis tavoyana of Wallich) is a large tree, mak-
ing good timber, but not much used as such. There are at least
two kinds, one being a white wood, and the other red. The
root chopped up, dried, and ground to powder, is a favorite medi-
cine, and is also rubbed over the body, for cutaneous diseases.
The bark, chopped fine, and thrown into the water where there

are fisb) produces the same intonetting eftott upon ttain li
does the eoeadtu indieui.

The Tban-ben (mf^earpm) is a large tree, sometitnes used if
timber, but generally spared for its gum, which is ezceHent §k
paying boats, and is regarded as a cure ftw the itch. The Ml
is a bean, two feet long.

The Thah (hignama) is a noUe-loolting tree^ fiimiallai^ t
strai^t timber for posts of houses, &c

The Tub-bo {uvaria) grows to a large Size, and makes smood^
handsome posts, but is not used for boats. It bears a latg^
brilliant, yellow, fragrant flower.

The The-myu-zoo grows only in the lower prorinces, tHiere
it is plenty. From the kernel of the fruit is made an oil highly
esteemed for the hair.

The Cow-moo is found of at least two species, one having a
iMtKid lea^ and the other narrow. Both are yery large. Canoes
of the largest size are made of them, and considered nearly aS
good as those made of teak.

The Mien-ga (cynomdra) is a small tree, and makes good small
posts, &C., but is chiefly used for fuel. It is abundant in the
lower provinces, but grows in the upper when planted, which is
sometimes done for fueL

The Boo-so-paw, or Cork-tree, is indigenous in the lower proy-
inces, and it is believed in the upper also. Unlike the proper
cork, the bark is thin and worthless. The wood itself is soft,
tough, fine, and makes a cork equal to any other.

The Then-nat is a moderate-sized tree. Spreading, thick foliage,
sofl, smooth leafl The fruit'resembles a gooseberry, very gluti-
nous ; one hard seed ; not used. Wood, a good deal used for san-
dals ; but the principal value of the tree is in its leaves, which
are preferred above ail others for wrappers to clieroots.

The Laz-un, (pomgcama aitropvarpttrea of Wallich.) Very
large tree, abundant in Tenasserim provinces. Flower, a beau-
tiful purple.

The Thik-ah-do {sterculia fcstida) is a very large and valuable
tree. The wood is odoriferous, straight, strong, takes a fine
polish, and is preferred for furniture.

The Pah-oun (osyria pdlata) is found in all the maritime
^Bstricts, and probably in the hills also.

The Eagle-wood, (aquUaria agaUochuniy) commonly called lig-
num aloes, is said to be abundant in the southern parts of the
Tenasserim provinces. It yields an incense much ^ued in the
East, particularly China and Japan.

KThe Kul-lo-vraii (lawia) is an iuferior sort of campbor-wood.
■rk, fragraoL

The Soo-ban is a shrub exceedingly prized by the Burmang, as
jnekting the best red dye of uiiy wuod they have. It is aold at a.
1 per visB, and aeeiUB rathot rare. The leaves are a favorite
■l&le for curry.

The Gamboge (garcinia comiq/a) is found ia [he soutliern prov-
inces, growing filteeu feet high. Lea^ broad, pale-green ; burk,
^t lead color. A gum uf a beautiful yellow is abundantly
jialded by its bark without inciatons, but seems not to ba
IIHd, except to a email extent as medicioe.

The Nah-oo attains a diameter of eighteen or rweuty inches.
BoaBom, very beautiful and fragraot, yellow, size of a large rose ;
grows only in wet places. Timber, very worthleEa,
ff The Ind-way abounds in the forests, undis a large tree. Seed,
" ilie size of a small egg. It yields a very useful resinous gum, of
1 light-gray color, used in the seams of boats, &c. It is obtained
not only by inciiriou, but drops on the ground, and is gutliered
without troutile. It is very much used, and may always be bought
in the bazar.

The Myoidt-gtio, or Mouk-iihnw, is a large froH, of use nl lent tim-
ber. IJarit, perfectly Bmooth ; flower, veiy eiiiali, on a long stem.
The Them-tneu-sa-bo is about the size of au apple-tree.
Several varieties. Has long tiiorns. Fruit, an inch in diameter,
pungent, and lull of seeds, like a guava. Tiie bruisi:d friut, and
the aehee of the wood, are mixed with indigo, to make a fine blue.
The Huaw-ben ia a large tree, of pale-yellow wood, pre-
ferred for making combe. It bears a large, fragrant fruit, but
worthless.

The In-jeen is a large tree, common in the upper provinces,
flowers, pmall, pinkish-yellow, very fiagrant, growing in clus-
ters, and celebrated in Burnaan poetry. This is the species of
wood generally found petri£ed near the earth-oil wells on the
Irrawaddy. Uaudama died near one of these trees.

The Pyouk-saik is a large tree, common in the jungle. Small,
yellow flower ; wood, hard, tough, straight-grained, and chosen,
wherever it can be had, for the brood centre-piece of BiumaD
wheels.

The Thee-din, or Anatto, {bixa oreUana,) is abundant, at least
roimd Aangoon. Tree, twelve to fifteen feet high ; leaf, very
■mall ; fruit, like a bean. For dyeing, the pods, which are round,
the size of an egg, are crushed, washed, and the sediment dried
for the pigment. In this form it is exported to a small extent

nxskMAA

Sefretal beantiAd and lagorous thorny Ante tanb cm m M to b
the up-country, suitable for hedges, and a good deal mad U
such. But instead of being planted, the boriiea are cot uf^
and laid along. Of course they are not durable.

The Wah, or Bamboo, (carrmdo heanbos^) is what is geaeoBj
called in America cone, and is used for fishing-poles. It li OM
of the most useful, if not the most so, of all Burman plants 1 )
grows fit>m forty to eighty feet high, in clusters or stools, ofiMttH ^
or fi>rty together, and perfects its timbw the second year. Theii
are ferty or fifty varieties, some a hundred feet high, and twidM
inches in diameter. Some are small, thiuj and light ; some an
almost solid, and much stronger than wood of the sagie diametar.
Of it are made houses, bridges, fUmiture, masts^ riggmg, eonfagei
paper, baskets, tools, nets, pumps, pitchers, fences^ Indeed, to
describe its uses would be to notice all the operations of the
household and field, of trade and mechanics. The insjMssaled
juice^ called tabasheeti is used in medicine, and is regarded bf
chemists as a rery remarkable substance. Dr. Brewster eaOs it
<* hydrate of silicia ;" that is, liquid flint The young plants oe
agreeably esculent, and prized for food.

Among the varieties of cane are aev^val of the ratan kind,
(eakmvM,) called Jiie-mn or Kyeitty growing diiefly in the soothem
jHTOvinces. Some kinds are nearly as thick as the wrist, growing
one or two hundred feet long, and very stnmg. It bears, in large
clusters of eighty or ninety, a beautifUl imbricated firuit, the size
of a musket-ball, not ediUe in its raw state, but sometimes
preserved. The English name is adopted from the Malays,
who call it Bofan.

Lac, which is largely exported fi^m Burmah, is obtained chiefly
in the Shyan districts It is the product of an insect, (coccus laeai
of Linnseus,) which exudes the gummy matter up<m twigs, to
protect its eggs, and create a sort of habitation. It lives on
various trees ; in Asam, chiefly on the Jteta nUgioaa. The lac
is assorted into qualities, which are called sHdt lae, or that which
has the twig in the centre, seed lac, lump lac, ahdl laCy &c.

There are several very common plants, which form an exc^
lent substitute fer soap, and are extensively used for such. Of
some the bark is used, and of others the bean : one is the atqnndim
of Linnaeus. Europeans use these for their hair, in preference
to any thing else.

Of dye-stulSs, both shrubby and arboreous, there is a good
variety, embracing nearly all the sorts known to exist within the
tropics. The turmeric, which is very common, seems to be

kss used as a dye than as an ingredient in cuny, to which it
imiMuts an aromatic flavor, and rich yellow color.

Beside those mentioned as medicinal, the natives regard nu-
merous others in this light Indeed, almost any thing uncom-
mon is made to enter into their pharmacopceia. The stalls of the
apothecaries, as they may be called, exhibit the most whimsical
Tariety. I have seen the shells of English walnuts among the
number.

Several vegetable poisons abound in the woods, of which the
Kerens avail themselves to poison their arrows.

Flowers are innumerable, and for the most part as superior
to ours in size and splendor as they are inferior in fragrance.
Fragrant flowers, however, though few in proportion, are per-*
luqps as numerous^ on the whole, as with us.

Tillage is perfi>rmed in some places almost exclusively with the
hoe and mattock ; in others, the plough is used, and sometimes
rice-lands are broken up, after being kept wet for a time, merely
by the feet of oxen. The plough resembles in shape the spade
on a playing-card, has no colter, and cuts to the depth of three
or four inches. Horses are never used for draught Bullocks
are managed by a rein, passed through the septum of the nose.
Rice-fields are sometimes prepared by merely treading up the
moist earth with oxen, raking off the weeds, and sowing the seed
broadcast The Karens, and some of the Burmans, transplant
the rice, when about six inches high, into regular drills, which
thus produces far better than when sown broadcast Reaping is
performed with a sickle, like ours, but smaller. Tlie grain is
trodden out by oxen, and the straw carefully saved for fodder.

In the flat and floodable districts, divisions are marked by
ditches, or narrow embankments; in the upper country, often
by hedges of thorn, cut up and brought to the spot There is an
iDdigenous thorn (zizyphus jujvha) admirably adapted for quick-
set hedges ; but such are not cultivated, except those of a thorny
bamboo, which grows too tall, and is in other respects illy
adapted to the purpose.

The lower country has no roads for wagons. Beatable
streams are almost the only means of communication, and tlie
ODiy parts settled. Adjacent villages are often connected by
foot-paths. In the higher districts, roads are general, and kept
in tolerable reptdr.

Cultivators of the soil do not reside on detached farms, but al-
ways in villages, for mutual protection against wild beasts and rob-

168 BUBIEAB.

ben. Indeed, as to a fcarm, there is no sach thing in BunuL .
Each fiimily cultivates a piece of the neighboring jungle, and bringi ta
the produce into the village, where the cattle also are brought ftr i
security. When there are neither water-courses nor springs^ wdh %
are dug, which yield good water. Instead of a bucket, a badat Si
is used coated vrith damar, and attached to a rope held in the |
hand ; but often it is listened to a long lever, balanced on a hig^ i
post ; precisely like the well-sweeps of New England.

The wages of labor are two or three times higher than in any
other part of India — a fiict which strongly indicates scanty popu-
lation. A common cooley, or field-hand, receives fLye or six ru-
pees per month, beside his provisions, which are worth about
two rupees more.

Rice being universally preferred to every thing else for food, it
is raised wherever it vrill grow ; and in the vast delta of the Ir-
rawaddy, is almost exclusively cultivated. In size and quality it
is greatiy superior to that of Bengal The river-lands are sur-
passingly rich, and, even under their present imperfect system
of husbsmdry, yield more than a hundred fold. Two crops in a
year may be raised. The Burmans mentioned to me about forty
kinds of rice, and I saw at least eight or ten.

Cotton, of various kinds, is raised with the utmost fiusility, in
every part of the country ; but chiefly in the region extending
from Prome, on both sides of the river, some sixty or seventy
miles above Ava. It is sown at the same time as paddy, viz. May,
and gathered about November. The same ground is seldom
used two successive years. A space is cleared of brush and grass,
buTDt over, and the seed sovm broadcast The annual kinds are
exclusively cultivated ; but the British have introduced into their
portions of the country the Pemambuco and other perennial
kinds, which promise to succeed well, and attain to a great size.
Much of the crop is exported across the country to China, but
the principal part is consumed in household manufactures.

The nankin, or red cotton, is cultivated largely, and is preferred
for women's en-gyees or short gowns. This kind is chiefly
obtained from the Shyans, who also manufacture the cloth
just named, and find a ready market for it at Ava.

Though cotton-seed in America has been till lately used only
for manure, and rarely even for that, not a kernel is wasted in
Burmah ; nor even used as manure. Some is used for oil, for the
expression of which they have good mills, turned by bullocks
Some is made into torches, for public feasts, by being placed
in a narrow jar, and sprinkled vnth oiL And a very considerable

169

part is eaten. It is steeped till ii sprouts, end is a highly- prized
food it) districts where rice is scurce. The youug pliuil is some-
tinte^i used also as on esculent.

Tobacco grows wild id many places, »nd is cultivated in most
pmtB of tiie country. There ore severiJ kiudB, Home of which is
not BUrpassed for Binoking hy the tiueel IlavaoH. The best Borta
and qualities sell st about a rupee a viaa; tbe middliug Borta,
^M>ut half that price ; and the poorest, lour or five vies for a rupee.
Tbe best is raised on the rich levels of tho maritime diiitr)CU,Biid
waler-eourses. The culture of tliis article might bo ahnost io-
deSniteiy increased ; but it has uot become an orticlo of e^qmrL
From a thousand to twelve hundred pounds are yielded per

A Dltle is used for chewing ; but llie consumption for smoking
is very great, not in pi|ws, but in cigars, or cheroots, witli ivrap-
pere made of the leaves of the Tlieii-nei tree. In maluDg
them, a little of the dried root, chopjied Ruo, is added, aud
liomctiines a email portion of sugar. These ore sold at a rupes

K lllOIIBUtld.

Tbe ujilnnds produce wheat, nud various other grains, with
scarcely any labor, as woll as beans, peas, and esculents, in great
variety, Tbe wheat crop is from twenty lo fifty fold; the grain
b heavy and sound, and the success of the crop, as likely as any
MhH: T%e price at Ava is always greatly less than that of ric^
viz. al>out fifty cents per bushel.

Rice, too, is not excluded from high land cultivation. The better
qualities cannot be raised, nor a great qiiaiitity; but many varieties
are produced, chiefly those of the glutinous kind. Of this sor^
Bonie kiKds are a beautiful purple, or indigo color: another kind,
called the Kouk-mytfi'phyoo, is a large and very white grain ; and
umther, called Kovk-nyen-ne, is a bright red. The average
crop, on these high lands, is about fifteen fold. Between the
Idlly districts and the low flats, inundated by the periodical ris«
of rivers, are extensive flats, well adapted to rice, aud made to

170 BUBMAH.

raise it in large quaDtities by artificial irrigation. The momeiil
is seized when the water-course is at its height, and by the pro*
cess shown in the picture, it is tlirown up the few remiuning ftet
I took the sketch from some men at work on the Irrawaddjf^
above Prome. A shallow basket, coated with damar, is &8tened
to a long handle, and so balanced by a cord fix>m above, as to
make tlie dipping of the water an easy and rapid procees.

Several kinds of millet, (holcus,) among which is the cmdropogm
cemtium, are largely raised for food, in the upper provinces, when
rice is comparatively dear, and to some extent in alL They grow
luxuriantly with very little care, and yield a highly nutiitife
food, though little valued in comparison with rice.

Indian Corn, called here Pyoung, grows well, wherever phmed,
but is cultivated in too slovenly a manner to produce as it might
It is rarely given to cattle, but is consumed by the natives in a
green state, and is sold, ready boiled, in all the bazars, at a wan
song. The common yield is from fifty to seventy fold.

Among the most esteemed varieties of pulse are a sort of kid-
ney-bean, {phaseolus max;) and several kinds of French bean,((i!o-
lidios ;) and Gram (deer caietinumf) called by the natives Kvkt^pai,
or " foreigner's bean," which produces very abundantly, but is
raised in small quantities, and chiefly in the northern districts.

The Nhan (sesamutn orientale) is largely cultivated, chiefly for
an excellent oil, which it yields abundantly, and which is used
both for food, unction, and light. It seems to be the same plant
called Vanglo in the West Indies, aAd Bonny in our Southern
States. It is a delicate annual, from two to five feet high, leaves
three inches long, opposite, downy. The Mong-nyen (*inapw
orientalis) is also raised in considerable quantities, chiefly for the
oil, which is an excellent substitute for butter, and is much used
also as an unguent

The certainty and regularity of the periodical rains, in the
western and eastern districts, render a general failure of crops
altogether unknown. In the middle region, round Ava, the
reverse is sometimes true.

Whether the true hemp is cultivated in Burmah I know not ;
but Dr. Wallich saw the beautiful single lanceolate-leaved oroiakL-
rid, raised for that purpose.

The tea-plant grows indigenous in all the upper provinces, and
is raised in large quantities for exportation to the rest of the
country. Part of it is prepared as a pickle, in which form it is a
&vorite article of food among all classes ; and part is dried and
put up in hard round balls. I used the latter during my whole

ACBICOI.TD&E. 171

a in ti)« counlry, and coincide with all the missionaries

tonoiuicing it equal to the best black teas of China. The

t, however, is EOmewhal pecutiur, and ihw are fond of it at

rally supposed to come from China, being mostly

f hvugbt by the Chinese and Shyan canivaiis j but eeveral of iha

it Ava assured me it is the product of their own terri-

m, purchased on the way. It sells at Ava, at about one ru-

a visa, {12 cents per pound.) Ir] the lower provinces, it bring*

I doiible that price. Itut even at the latter rate, it ia esceediugly

Aeap. There ia no obstruction to its exportation.

Black pepper is indigenous, anil in some placea amall quantities
»e cultivated. It might be made a great article of export ; bul
tbe nativea do not esteem it as a condiment, prefening tlie long
nd pepper, or cliilly. The latter ailicle might also be made an
important article of commerce, and is now exported to some es-
tenL With it, tbe people of the upper districts purchase rice,
ix^ froiu tbe [ovrer diEtricls. It is tbund wild in great quanti-
lies. Cultivatian seems lo increase tbe size, but not the puu-
feaey of tbe plant

The sugar-cane attains its full size and richness in fertile ^pots,
ind sugar might bee^ortedto a great extent. Millions of acres,
■dapted to its most successful cultivation, he wholly uuinhaUted.
'^ougfa almost every Burman raises a little sugar-cane, it ia
merely to be eaten in its natural stale, and none, that I knon^ o^
reeort to it for sugar. The Chinese round (Jmerapoora, make s
considerabli; quantity of excellent light-brown sugar, which is
Bold very cheap. They also clay some of it, and produce an
uticle us white as our loaf-sugar, but much abridged, of its

Indigo grovrs vvild,aud is cultivated also to Kome extont. The
mode of extracting tiie dye in unskilful, and the whole product ia
used in tbe fabrics of tlie country. Tbe high price of labor will
forbid the exportation oftliis article.

The ground-nut [arachis hi/pogtEa] grows well, and in many
places is attended to, and produced in considerable quantity.
But as a genera! tbing, it ie eiitu^ly disregarded.

Tbe process of raising garden Tegclablee (an enumeration of
meet of which is given, page 159} is much the same as with us;

Honey is exceedingly plenty, but always derived &om wild
bees. It is less prized than that from Yannan, and is of a darker
color; but is consumed largely, and exported to Bome extent. In
obtaimag it, the bees are not destroyed.

173 BURMAB.

The wild animals of the country are the elephant, elk,tiga^
leopard, buffido, deer (of Beveral species]^ antelope, bison, njl-
^lai], rhinoceros, wol^ goat, hare, raccoon, serval or mountun
eat, civet cat, tiger cat, polecat, hog, black bear, porcupine, ichimii-
mon, squirrel (of several kinds), baboon, and monkey (of many
kinds), mole, otter, and rat. Some of these are scarce, otiiei%
particularly the elephant, tiger, deer, hog, and rat, are very
abundant

Elephants are most abundant and noble in Pegu, but are nu-
merous in some of the mountain districts. The feline animalB
are most abundant in the maritime districts. Much is said of the
vfhite elephants of Burmah. There is now but one known to
exist in the empire — an old and remarkably fine wniTnal^ which
has long been the pride of royalty at Ava. He Beems to be
an albino.

It is very remarkable that the jackal, thou^ found in great
numbers over nearly all the warm regions of the world, and par-
ticularly numerous in Bengal and Chittagong, is wholly unknown
in Burmah. Yet the mountains which divide Burmah from the
adjacent jackal regions, are not only passable in many places for
travellers, but have open roads or paths, constantly used. The
whole cards genus, except the common house-dog, seems wanting
in Burmah. Neither the jackal, fox, wol^ or hyena, have yet
been found in the country.

There are alligators of at least two species, and some attain the
largest size. In the tide- waters they literally swarm, and not un-
firequently kill men sleeping on the little boats. Sharks abound
at the mouths of the rivers. Turtles and tortoises are very com-
mon on the coast ; and some places are so frequented by them to
lay their eggs, that the spots are farmed out by government for
a considerable sum.

The domestic animals are the buffalo, braminy cattle, horse,
ass, mule, goat, dog, hog, cat, sheep. Some of these are very
rare. Indeed, none are conunon but horses, homed cattle, and
dogs. Animal food being prohibited by their laws, none are
raised for food ; and, woollen garments being little known, sheep
are not wanted for wool. Except a flock owned by the king, I
heard of none belonging to natives. English gentlemen some-
times keep a few for the sake of the mutton, which run with the
goats, kept for milk, and are tended by the same man. So en-
tirely in these hot climates do sheep lose theu* distinctive features,
that, in seeing them mixed with goats, I never could tell them

▲NnuiJk 173.

iput. They are never white, as with us, and their wool degener-
Hesinto hair. May not this illustrate Matt xxv. 32,33 — <^He
Aall separate them one from the other, as a shepherd divideth
Ad sheep from the goats " ? Though an unaccustomed eye could
not discern the difierence, the shepherd knows each perfectly.
80^ though, in this world, hypocrites mingle with God's people,
and resentible them, the << Great Shepherd" instantly detects
them, and, at the appointed time, will unerringly divide them.
The braminy cattle (of which a delineation is given in the pic-
tare of a Burman coach, page 1 00) are not numerous. The buffalo

is used instead, and is the same
which is common in Siam,
Asam, and China. A correct
idea can be had from the draw-
ing. It is of twice the size of
the braminy ox, of a dark dun
color, with huge black horns,
almost horizontal ; and remark-
The Buffa:©. able for its aquatic habits. Be-

ing nearly destitute of hair, in-
sects annoy it exceedmgly, and it generally takes its repose in the
water, with but a part of its head visible. He is managed by a
cord passed through the septum of the nose, and draws in a yoke
like ours, generally single, and not in pairs. To see an animal
so huge, and generally so ferocious, thus easily humbled and re-
strained, throws a strong light on the 19th chapter of 2 Kings;
and often, as I saw a child lead a buffalo thus, I was reminded
of Sennacherib, the mighty, the presumptuous Sennacherib. Full
of confidence in his overwhelming force, he stands ready to de-
vour Israel, "as the green herb, and as the grass of the field,"
(v. 26,) and, like a roaring bull, utters " his rage against God."
How calm, and contenii)tuous ai-e the words of Jehovah! "Be-
cause thy rage against me, and thy tumult, is come up into mme
ears, therefore 1 will put my hook in thy nose, and my bridle in
thy lips, and I will turn thee back by the way by which thou
earnest." v. 28. I am still struck with it daily. The contempt
ex])ressed in conii)aring him to a beast of burden, and the ease
with which God could lead him away, like a bullock by the
nose, are vciy fine.

The breed of horses is small, but excellent, resembling in many
points the Canadian pony. They are capable of enduring great
fatigue, and never need shoeing, but are not used for draught
For this latter puii)ose the buffalo is principally employed.

15*

174 BURHAH.

Dogs, breeding unrestraiued, are so numerous in the viUages as
to be a sad nuisance, to foreigners at least. Receiving very little
attention, tliey are compelled by hunger to eat every species of
ofTal, and in this respect are of some service in a country where
scavengers are unknown.

The elephant must of course be named among domestic ani-
mals, as well as wild. All, wild and tame, are owned by the
king ; but great men keep more or less, as they are permitted or
required. There are said to be two thousand of them in the
empire, properly trained. Next to the white elephant, those are
most prized who have most flesh-color about the ears, head, and
trunk. This always appeared to me a blemish, and has a dis-
eased, spotted appearance. The other points of beauty are to
have the fore legs bow out much in front, and the. crupper to
droop very low.

Burmans rarely use them for any other purpose than riding or
war. Instead of preferring females, as do the more effeminate
Hindus, l>eeause more docile, Burmans will scarcely use them.
They are kept for breeding, and for decoys in capturing the wild
animal. It has been often denied that the elephant will breed
in a domestic state ; but it is most certainly the fact iu this coun-
try, and to a considerable extent I have often seen them in the
pastures with their young. The process of catching and taming
elephants is too similar to that practised elsewhere in the East
to need description here.

The ornithology of Burmah has never yet been given, but
b probably similar to that of Hindustan, on which splendid and
extensive works are before the public.

The Henza, or Braminy goose, a species of kite, is the symbol
of the empire; but is not regarded with religious veneration.
Kites seem to remain only in tlie dry season. In the forests are
found the vulture, hawk, partridge, parrot, pheasant, bird of par-
adise, doves of several varieties (one almost as large as a hen),
raven, two species of pheasants, a great variety of woodpeckers,
sparrows, and martins. Pea-fowls are both wild and tame, as also
are pigeons and parrots. Jungle-fowl abound in the forests. It
resembles the conmion barn-yard fowl, except that, like other
wild fowl, its plumage is invariably the same, viz. a dark red,
with black breast and legs. The male crows like the common
cock. The flesh is excellent food.

Wild ducks, (of several varieties) cormorants, pelicans, plovers,
snipe, teal, and a variety of other aquatic birds, are common.

BIBOS — FI8HS8 — REPTILES. X75

Sparrows are so Dumerous as to be, in some places, a serious in-
Juiy to husbandmen. The beautiful and sagacious bottle-nest
QNurrow (sometimes called toddy-hird) is abundant It has no
song, but a cheerful chirp ; and as they associate in communities,
they enliven the place of their retreat most agreeably. The nest
has often been described. It may rather be called a house, as it
is seldom less than a foot in height, and twice as much in cir-
cumference, containing not only the nest, where incubation is
performed, but an apartment for the male bird, who gives much
of his time to Ms mate, during this process. Few Burman birds
have a pleasant song, though some are by no means disagreeable.

Around villages, crows are innumerable. Secured from moles-
tation, by Burman faith, and fed by the pagoda offerings, they
multiply without restriction. Though valuable as general scav-
engers, they are often very troublesome, even coming into the
house, and stealing food from the table. The noise of them at
Tavoy, Rangoon, and some other places, kept up all day, by thou-
sands, was to me, for the first few days, exceedingly annoying.

Domestic fowls are common. Among the varieties is one
whose feathers, skin, and bones, are perfectly black. I often ate
them, but perceived no difference in the taste, except, perhaps,
that they are more tender. Ducks are somewhat common, but
geese are very rare, and turkeys have not been introduced.

Fishes are in multitudes, on all the coasts, and in every river,
creek, and eveu tauk. Few of them resemble those of our hem-
isphere ; but in quality some are quite equal to the best we have.
About Jijly kinds have been noticed ; but I could ouly get the Eng-
lish or Bengalee names of the following — cokup, bcckty, mul-
let (four or five kinds), pomfret, hilsah or sable, salier or luck-
wah, ruee, sole, mango, catfish, eel, bumela or latea, carp,
datina, punga, flounder, skate, and rock-cod.

Prawns, crabs, oysters, muscles, periwinkles, cockles, &c. &c.,
are found in tuiy quantity on the sea-board, and in some places
are a good deal relied on for food.

Reptiles are numerous, but less troublesome or dangerous than
is supposed in this country. Injuries from them are vciy rare,
even among natives whose habits expose tlicm more than for-
eigners.

Serpents are numerous in some places, but few are venomous.
A species of water-snake is dreaded, as most poisonous. The
boa constrictor, and several species of cobra, are occasionally
seen of large size. The former are sometimes killed with a kid,
or even a calf, in their stomachs entire ! The rat-snake is often

176 BUMIA8.

six feet long, and even more. One of the most dreaded mta
18 a species of viper, which is perfectly dea^ and cannot \»
awaked by any noise ; the slightest touch, however, rouses it ii
an instant

Scorpions are of two kinds, Uack, and whitish brown. The iw-
mer attain the length of five or six inches, and their Mte is often
fetal. The latter are more common, but smaller and less venoia-
ous. At Mergui, and possibly elsewhere, there is a flying liaod,
about five inches long, not unlike the conunon picture of the
dragon. I procured and preserved several in alcohol, which are
now in the Museum of the Boston Society of Natural JElistoiy.
The wings are leathery, like those of a bat, and extend along
the whole side of the body. They have about the same power
of flight as the flying squirrel of our country.

Lizards of various kinds are common. They inhabit pagodas,
trees, rocks, and the roofs of houses. A small kind, which feeds
principaUy upon flies, inhabits all dwelling-houses. It is alwa}'s
a welcome resident, and is allowed to run about the walls,
and even come upon the table to catch the insects, which gather
round the lamp. The Touk-tay, or Gecko, is a beautiful crea-
ture, about six inches long. Some consider it venomous ; but this
is not clear. The Pa-dat attains a much greater size than the
touktay. The Then-like is apt to sting, and is by some deemed
poisonous. The Poke-then, a sort of chameleon, with a mane a!oDg
the top of his neck, which changes color beautifully. It is called
in Madras, the bloodsucker. The Iguana is generally from two to
four feet long, including the tail. Sometimes they are seen as large
as a child seven or eight years old. They are not common, ex-
cept in the jungle ; and are prized as a very delicate food.

Spiders of various sorts are, of course, not wanting ; some of
them are as large as a common crab, and as poisonous as hometa

Leeches are inconceivably numerous in many places, and so
large as to creajte serious inconvenience to persons who are
obliged to work in the water.

Centipedes are very common. The most conmion kinds are
two or three inches long ; but some are double that size. Their
venom has been greatly exaggerated. Many persons who have
been bitten by them assured me that the pain and inflammation
were not greater than are produced by the sting of a common
bee. It varies, as that does, in diflerent persons.

Insects, in all the varieties common to a tropical climate, abound
in Burmah; but there is no record of their having been so
numerous as to create local devastations. The white ants are

These are abundantly described in encyclope-
rhe musquilo is troublesome in low piares, but seems not
onoua as oiira, or at least only to new cotners. On the
'the Imiwaddy, and some other moist disti'icta, they swarm
I fill tbe air as sooci os it is dark, and cattle CBn ooly be
ive by placing them, at night, in ttie midst of a thick
I have been in many parts of America, however, panic-
he sea-coast of Jersey, where these insects ore os trouble-

Papilioiies, libellulm, scarabei, cicadee, cantliarldes, oiid
nore, are active all day, but give place to fiu* greater tnul-

which fill the air at night 1 believe no collection of
n insects has ever been madej but it was utterly out of my
to gatlier any.

178

CHAPTER in.

Population — Fonn and Features — Buildings -— Food — Dreaa — Mubw
and Customs — Character — Condition of Women — Biarriage — Poljp
my— Divorce — Diseases — Medical Practice—- Bfidwifery—F\uieitb-«
Amniements — - Musical Instruments — Manufoetores.

Few countries have had their population so variously esU
mated Old geographies stated it at 30,000i000 ; Synunes mad
it 17,000,000 ; Cox afterwards reduced it to 8,000,000 ; and Btll
allows it only 3,700,000. The chief woon-gyee at Ava infi>nne
me that the last census gave a total of 300,000 houses. AUowin
a fraction short of seven persons to a house, this would mak
2,000,000 ; presuming one third of the houses to have escape
enumeration, we have 3,000,000. After the most careful inqu
ries, I am led to put down the number of the inhabitants, 1
whom the Burman tongue is vernacular, at 3,000,000. This est
mate was confirmed by many persons and numerous facts. Tli
Shyans are probably 3,000,000 more, and, with other subsidiai
tribes, bring up the total population to about the estimate c
Cox.

The people, though not so tall as Hindus, are more athleti
The average height of men is about five feet two inches, ar
of women four feet ten inches ; that is to say, about four or fi^
inches shorter than the average height of Europeans. Wome
have more slender limbs than men, but are universally squan
shouldered. Corpulence is not more frequent than in this coui
try. In features they are totally dissimilar to the Hindus, an
rather resemble the Malays, especially in the prominence c
cheek-bones, and squareness of the jaw. The nose is never pron
inent, but often flat, and the lips generally thick. The comple:
ion of young children, and those who have not been exposed ^
the sun, is that of our brightest mulattoes. Few, except amoi
the higher classes, retain this degree of fairness, but none ev<
become, by many shades, so black as Hindus. I saw few whoi
complexions were clear enough to discover a blush. The stan<
ard of beauty seems to be delicate yellow ; and in full dress,
cosmetic is used by ladies and children which imparts this tii
It is remarkable that this hue should be admired not only hei
but amongst the almost black natives of Hindustan, and tl
many-colored inhabitants of the islands of the Indian Ocean.

BVILDINeS. 179

The hair of the head is very abundant, always black, rather
coarse, and rendered glossy by frequent anointmgs. On the
limbs and breast there is none, strongly contrasting in this re-
spect with Hindus, whose bodies are almost covered with hair.
Their beard is abundant on die upper lip, but never extends over
the cheeks, and is but scanty on the chin.

Puberty does not occur much earlier than with us; women
bear children to nearly as late a period. The average length of
life seems not perceptibly difierent from that of Europe.

Dweihngs are constructed of timbers, or bamboos set in the
earth, with lighter pieces fastened transversely. When good
posts are used, they are set seven feet apart; lighter ones and
bamboos are placed closer. A firame set on stone or brick pillars,
is never seen. The sides are covered, some with mats, more or
less substantial and costly ; or with thatch, fastened with split
ratans. The roof is usually of thatch, even in the best houses. It
is very ingeniously made and fastened on, and is a perfect security
against wind or rain. The cheapest is made of strong grass, six
or seven feet long, bent over a thin strip of cane four feet long,
and stitched on with ratan. A better kind is made of attap or
dennee leaves, in the same manner. These are laid on like
wide boards, lapping over each other from twelve to eighteen
inches. They cost a mere trifle, and last about three years.

The floor is of split cane, elevated a few feet from the earth,
which secures ventilation and cleanliness, and makes them far
more comfortable and tidy than the houses of Bengal. The open
cre\ices between the slats, however, too oflen invite carelessness,
by suffering offal and dirty fluids to pass through ; and not un-
frequently, among the lower ranks, the space under the house is
a nasty mud-hole, alive with vermin. The doors and windows
are of mat, strengthened with a frame of bamboo, and tied fast
at the top. When opened, they are propped up with a bamboo,
and form a shade. Of course, there are no chimneys. Cooking
is done on a shallow box, a yard square, filled with earth. The
whole house may be put up in two or three days, at an expense
of from sixty to one hundi*ed rupees, though many do not cost
half that sum. Posts of common timber last from ten to fifteen
years, iron-wood forty or fifty, and good teak eighty or a
hundred. The houses of the more opulent, in large towns, are
built of wood, with plank floors and pannelled doors and
window-shutters, but without latli, jdaster, or glass.

Such houses furnish a fine harbor for spidei*s, worms, lizards,
and centipedes ; but create no inconvenience in general, except

180 BUBXiLKi

the particles of dust which are constantly powdered down
from the thatch, as the worms eat it up. The lizards are net
only harmless but useful, by consuming flies, musquitoes, &e.
The centipedes are poisonous ; but it is very rare that any one u
bitten, and the result is merely a painful swelling and inflamnM-
tion for a few days.

The rank of the opulent is particularly regarded in the archi-
tecture of the dwelling ; and a deviation from rule would be in-
stantly marked and punished. The distinction lies chie^ in
hips or stages in the roo( as seen in the picture of a zayal, <m a
subsequent page.

The whole of the architectural skill of this people is by no
means exhibited in their dwellings. Some of the zayats, pago-
das, and temples, are truly noble. There can be no doubt but
that, if the people were not prohibited, they would oflen erect for
themselves substantial stone or brick buildings. It has been
said that they have lost the art of turning an arch ; but this is
wholly a mistake. I have seen many fine arches, of large span,
evidently erected within a few years, and some not yet finished,
constructed wholly by Burman masons. The stucco, which cov-
ers all buildings, is put on with extraordinary durability, and gen-
erally with tasteful ornaments. Floors and brick images, covered
in this way, have often a polish equal to the most exquisitely
wrought marble. The mortar is made of the best lime, and sand,
with a liberal mixture of jaggery, but without hair. No one can
form a proper estimate of Burman architecture, who htis not vis-
ited Ava, or one of the ancient seats of government Religious
structures are there far more numerous and magnificent than
in distant parts of the empire. As in other countries, the state
religion shines most, in temporal endowments and honors, in the
neighborhood of the metropolis.

Though Burmans spend all their zeal on useless pagodas,
tliere are near the capital some other structures of public utility.
Some tanks have been constructed, which secure irrigation, and
consequent fertility, to a fine region of adjacent country. One
of these, near Mokesobo, is truly a noble work. Across the little
river at Ava, and the marsh adjacent, is a very long bridge, which
I have not seen surpassed in India, and scarcely in Europe.
Various other edifices, both civil and military, ornament the me-
tropolis, and would do honor to any people.

The favorite food, in common with all India and China, and
universally used by all who can afford it, is rice. This is often

Men without an; addition whatever, but generally wiih s
cony, anil sauces of vnrious steived melonB, vegctnblesi
Except among Ibe very pimr, a lillia meat or lisli is added. Sweet
oil, made from llie sesamuiu seed, enlere largely into their s
Boaing. But the great condiment ia cliUlie, or eapeicum. From
ibe higliest to tlie lowest, all season their rice with this plant.
The consumption is incredibly great, and ia its dried state it
fonns a considerable branch of iuterual trade. The whole pod,.
with its seeds, ia ground to powder on a stone, (a little water be-
ing added if the peppers ore dried,) and mixed widi a little tui^
meric, and onions or garlic, ground up in tlie same tnanuer, and-
generally acidified with iome sour juice : often, instead of water).
the expressed juice of rasped coco-nut is used to make the curry„
In this the iieh or meat ia slewed, if they hare any, and a very
palatable sauce is mode, at almost no exiiense. Sweet oil, made
of the coco-nut, sesamiun, or mustard seed, is a very odmireHl
addition to their various messes, and almost entirely supereedoa
ilie use of butter. The latter is used only in the clarilicd state*
called pav-hol, and by Europeans ghee.

In the upper districts, where rice is dearer than below, wheat,
maize, sweet potatoes, onions, peaa, Iwons, and plantains, enter
largely into the common diet Indeed, a Uurniau seems almost
literally omniTorous. A hundred sorts of leaves, suckers, blos-
soms, and roots, are daily giitliured in the jungle, and a famine
seems almost impossible. Snakes, lizards, grubs, anta' eggs, &<^
are eaten without hesitation, and many are deemed deUcacies.
Ad animal which has died of itaellj or the swollen carcass of
game killed with poisoned arrows, is just as acceptable as other
meat Like the ancient Romans, the Uurmans are very fond of
certain wood-worms, particularly a veiy large species, found in
the trunks of plantain-trees. I have seen several foreigners,.
who bad adopted it as one of their delicacies.

Though the law forbids the taking of life, no one scruples tO'
eat what is aheadydead; and there are always sinners enough toi
keep the sanctimonious ones supplied with animal Ibod. Indeed,.
Tery few scruple to take game or fish. Thousands of the natives
are fishermen by profession. 1 asked some of these what they
thought would become of them in the nest state. They ad-
mitted That they must suffer myriads of years, for taking so
many lives; but would generally add, "What can we do? our
wives and children must eat,"

Cooking is done in a thin, earthen pot, narrow at tlie mouth,
placed close to the fire, on three stonoH. Very little fuel is used,
YOL. L 16

182 BUBMAH.

and this of a light kind, often the stalks of flowers, remindiiif
me of the remark of our Savior, (Matt vL 30,) when he reprovtd
mireasonable anxiety about raiment The variety of modes fli
which the difierent kinds of rice are prepared, is surprisiK
With no other addition than sugar, or a few nuts, or a rasped
coco-nut, they make almost as many delicacies as our coaSdO-
tioners ; and such as I tasted were equally palatable.

Though their wheat is of the finest quality, it is much km
valued than rice, and sells for less money. Its name, ^ foreignei's
rice," shows it not to be indigenous ; but when it was introductd
is not known. Its being also called gy&ngj which is a Bengills
name, intimates that it might have been received from thence.
Animals are fed with it, and, in some places, it forms a large part
of the people's subsistence ; not ground and made into bread, but
cooked, much as they do rice. The bread made of it by
foreigners, is remarkably white and good, the firesh juice of the
toddy-tree furnishing the best of leaven. The bakers are gener-
ally Bengalese, who grind the flour, in the manner so often al-
luded to in Scripture, in a hand-mill. Wherever there are
Europeans, there are some of these bakers, who furnish fi^sh
bread every day, at a rate not dearer than with us.

In eating, Burmans use their fingers only, always
washing their hands before and after, and generally
their mouths also. A large salver contains the plain
boiled rice, and another the litde dishes of various
curries and sauces. These salvers, or lackered

Eating stand. ^y^ ^® ^^^ ^ ^® piCtUrO.

They take huge mouthfuls, and chew the rice a
good deal Sometimes a handful is pressed in the palm, till it
resembles an egg, and is in that form thrust into the moutL
The quantity taken at a meal is large, but scarcely half of that
devoured by a Bengalee. Only the right hand is used in eadng,
the left being consigned to the more uncleanly acts. They eat
but twice a day, once about eight or nine o'clock, and again to-
ward sunset They avoid drinking before, or during eating, on
the plea that they then could not eat so much : after eating, they
take free draughts of pure water, and lie down to take a short nap.
The dress of men in the lower classes, while engaged in labor,
is a cotton cloth, called pes-sd, about four and a half yards long,
and a yard vside, passed round the hips, and between the thiglis ;
most of it being gathered into a knot in fi^ont When not at work,
it is loosed, and passed round the hips, and over the shoulder,
covering, in a graceful manner, nearly the whole body. A large

^ |nt of the people, especially at Ava, wear this of silk ; and then
^ h KVTCely any one vho has not silk for special days. A jacket
e- iritfa elcevea, called XTigee, generally of while muslin, but seme-
' liims of broadcloth or velvet, is added, among the higher cla8se%
' hn not tutbituallj, except in cold weather. It buttons at the
IBck and the bottom, as represented in the picture, page 187.
Dreaaed or undressed, all wear the turban or goun-boung, of
hnk'tnualin, W cotton handkerchiefs. The entire aspect of a
respectable Burman's dreae is neat, decorous,
and graceful. On the feet, when dressed,
are worn sandals of wood or cow-hide cov-
ered with cloth, and held on by straps, one
of which pasaes over the instep, the other
ever the great toe. On entering a house, these are always left at
the door.

Women universally wear a fa-mine, or petticoat, of cotton or
dlk, Vned with muslin. It is but little wider than is suffi-
cient to go around the body, and is Astened
by merely tucking in the comers. It extends
fivm the arm-pita to the ankles ; but laboring
women, at least after tliey have borne children,
generally gather it around the hips, leaviug un-
covered all the upper part of the form. Being
merely lapi)ed over in front, aiid not sewed, it
exposes one leg above the knee, at every Btej\
By the higher clossen, and by others when not
at work, is worn, in addition, an in-gce, or jacket,
open in tlie frout, with close, long sleeves.
It i9 always made of thin innteriiils, mid fre-
quently of gauze or lace. Laboring women
and children freijuentiy wear,in the cold sensoii,
a shorter gown, resembling n sailor's jacket, of
common calico. Nothing is worn on tlie head.
Their sandals are like those of men. The
picture represents a genteel woman, witli a cigur, as is very com-
mon, in her hand.

Boys go naked till tliey are five or six in cities, and seven or
eiglit in country places. Girls begin to ivear clothing several
years earlier.

Botli sexes wear ontaments in their ears. Tliey are not I'ljigs, or
pendants, but rylindera of gold, silver, horn, wood, miirh'e, or paper,
passed through a hole in the soft part of the ear. The jierfora-
lion is al firtt small, but the tube is from time to time enlarged,

184 BURMAH.

till it reaches the fashionable dimensions of about an inch k
diameter. As in all countries, some are extreme in their faidbiod^
and such enlarge it still more. I have seen some of these ear
(Mmaments larger round than a dollar. The boring of a hofi
ear is generally made, by those who can afibrd it, an occasion of
a profuse feast and other entertainments. After the period of
youth, few seem to care for this decoration, and the holes are ^
made to serve for carrying a spare cheroot or a bunch of floweiBi I

Men generally wear mustachios, but pluck out their beard with }
tweezers : old people sometimes suffer it to grow ; but it never at- !
tains to respectable size. Botli sexes, as a matter of modesty,
pluck out the hair under the arm, which certainly diminishes the
repulsive asx)ect of the naked bust

Both sexes wear their hair very long. Men tie it in a knot on
the top of the head, or intertwine it with their turban. Women
turn it all back, and, without a comb, form it into a graceful knot
behind, frequently adding chaplets or festoons of fragrant natural
flowers, strung on a thread. As much hair is deemed ornamental,
they often add fidse ti*esses, which hang down behind, in the
manner shown in the last pictm*e. Both sexes take great
pains with their hair, frequently washing it with a species of
bark, whldi has the properties of soap, and keeping it anointed
with sweet oil.

Women are fond of rendering their complexions more fair, and
at the same time fragi'ant, by rubbing over the face the delicate
yellow powder already mentioned, which is also found a great
relief in cutaneous eruptions, and is often used for this purpose
by the missionary, with success. They occasionally stain the
nails of the fingers and toes with a scai'let pigment Bathing is
a daily habit of all who live in the vicinity of convenient water.
I was often reminded, while sitting in their houses in the dusk of
the evening, of oiu* Savior's remark, John xiii. 10 — "He that is
washed needeth not save to wash his feet, but is clean every
whit" The men, having finished thciir labor, bathe, and clean
themselves at the river, or tank ; but walking up with wet feet
defiles them again, so that they cannot with propriety come and
take their place on the mat or bed. Taking up some water,
therefore, in a coco-nut dipper, out of a large jar which stands at
the door of every house, they easily rinse tlieir feet as they stand
Oji the step, and " are clean eveiy whit"

All ranks are exceedingly fond of flowers, and display great
taste m arranging them, on all public occasions. The pagodas
receive daily offerings of these in great quantity, and a lady in

lUHNEBS A!.D CUSTOMS. 18S I

fbH dress IhrowB festooDs of them around her hair. Dreesy Dietb i

on special occasions, pul a few into the boles in their ears.

In alt Btirman pictures, it is observable ttiat Ibe arm, when ui
to prop Ibe body, is curved the ivrong way. Tliis arises frotii Ihs ,
fi^uencf of Euch a posture to persons who sit on the floor n
their feel at their side, and front ibe great fleldbility of the joint!
of Orieotals. It ia deemed a beauty in pru)iortion to its degree'. |
of flexure. I found the eome fashion prevailing id Siaiii, eu
wok a drawing, which will come in hereafter. Tlie stories,
some booka, of their dialocaling their elbow ot ploasiu-e, and. I
ETen putting up the hair, &e. witli the joints reveraed, ora f

The mode of kissing is curious, tbougli natural. Instead of s J
a^ht touch of the lips, as with us, they apply the moulb ani |
nose closely to the person's cheek, and draw iu the brenCli strong- j
Iy,a3 if amelling' a delightful perfunae. Hence, instead of Baying, I
"Give mo akiaa|"tliey say,"Give me a smell." There i.
word iu the language which translates our word kiss.

CMIdren are carried, not in the arms, as with ua, but astrida '
the bip, aa is the custom in other parts of India, i^ee cut in
the chapter on Siam. The cradle of on infant ia an oblong baa-
bet, without rockers, suspended from the rallers. Tlie least u»-
pulse seta it swinging; and the child is thus kept cool, and
uimunoyed by the flies.

The custom of blacking the teeth is almoBt imiversaL It is
generally done about the age of puberty. The person first chews
alum or soin vegetables several boms, afler which a mixture of
oil, lampblack, and perhaps other ingredienle, ia applied with a
hot iron. Wben done by the regular professors of the ait, it is
indelible. At the metropolis, the practice is getting into disre-
pute, and Btiil more so in the British provinces ; and as inier-
amrse with foreigners increases, the practice may become ob-
solete. Whenever 1 asked the reason of this custom, the only
answer was, "What! should we have white teeth, like a dog

Almost every one, male or female, chews the singular mixture
called coon; and the lackered or gilded box containing the in-
gredients is borne about on all occasions. The quid consists
of a slice of areca-nut, a sinall piece of cutch, and some tobacco
tolled up in a leaf of betel pepper, on whirh has been smeared a
little tempered quicklime. It creates profbse saliva, and so fills
Up tbe mouth that they seem to be chewing food. It colors the
mouth deep red; and the teeth, if not previously blackened, asr
16 •

186 BOEMAB.

same the same color. It is rather expensive, and is not taken
very often through the day. Smoking tobacco is still more prev-
alent among both sexes, and is commenced by children almost as
soon as they are weaned. 1 have seen litde creatures of two or
three years, stark naked, tottering about with a lighted cigar in their
mouth. It is not uncommon for them to become smokers^ even

before they are weaned, the mother often taking
the cheroot from her mouth and putting it into
that of the infant ! Such universal smoking and
chewing makes a spittoon necessary to cleanly
persons. It is generally made of brass, in the
shape of a vase, and quite handsome. Hookas
are not used, and pipes are uncommon. The
cheroot is seldom wholly made of tobacca
g^^j^ The wrapper is the leaf of the then-nat tree;

fragrant wood rasped fine, the dried root of the
tobacco, and some of the proper leaf, make the contents.

Men are universally tattooed on the thighs and lower part of
the body, as is shown in the engraving on page 187. The opera-
tion is commenced in patches, at the age of ei^t or ten years,
and continued till the whole is finished. In the picture, a litde
boy is represented with the operation commenced. The intended
figures, such as animals, birds, demons, &c., are traced vnth
lampblack and oil, and pricked in with a pointed instrument
Frequently the figures are only lines, curves, &c., with an occa-
sional cabalistic word. The process is not only painful, but ex-
pensive. The tattooing of as much surface as may be covered
by "six fingers" costs a quarter of a tical, when performed by an
ordinary artist ; but when by one of superior qualifications, the
charge is higher. Not to be thus tattooed is considered as a
mark of effeminacy. The practice originates not only from its
being considered ornamental, but a charm against casualtiea
Those who aspire to more eminent decoration have another tat-
tooing, with a red pigment, done in small squares upon the breast
and arms.

A few individuals, especially among those who have made
arms a profession, insert under the skin of the arm, just below
the shoulder, small pieces of gold, copper, or iron, and sometimes
diamonds or pearls. One of the converts at Ava, formerly a
colonel in the Burman army, had ten or twelve of these in his
arm, several of which he allowed me to extract They are
thin plates of gold, witli a charm written upon them, and then
rolled up.

187

Tbo upper claaseB sleep on bedsieoda, nith b 'h'" meitrass or
nu ; but moat people sleep on the floor. Some have a thick cot-
Icm cloth to wrap themaelvea in at oight ; but the majority use
aij the clothes worn in die da;. Sheets are not thought of by
u; class : even Europeans prefer to have their mattrasses en-
elaeed in the fine mats of the country, and sleep in suitable

Bespeetable people are always attended in the streets by a
few foUowera, sometimes by quite a crowd. A petty officer of
Buddling rank appears with six or eight: one carries a pipe,
mother a coon-box, another a water-goblet, with the cup turned
ifdde down on the moutb, another a spittoon, another a mem-

orandum-book, etc AH classes use umbrellas when walking
abroad. Peasants and laborers, when at work, geucrallj wear
bata two or three feet in diameter, made of light bark.

It ia scarcely safe for travellers to attempt to i)ortray national
character. Calm and prolonged intercourse, at esery place,
Willi men long on tlie ground, and daily contact ivilli iiatHcs,
merchants, civilians, soldiers, and missionaries, gave me, however,
0|i]>ortunitiea for forming opinions such as fiill to the lot of
fen-.

The Biirman character differs, iii many points, from that of the
Hindus, and otlier East Indians. They are more lively, active,
and induslrious, and, though fond of repop*, arc SE.'Idnm idle
when there is an inducement for e:

186 BURMAB.

ment offere, tbey exhibit not only great strength, but courage ni
perseverance, and often accomplish what we should think scarce^
possible, fiut these valuable traits are rendered nearly useka^
by the want of a higher grade of civilization. The poorest clasM^
furnished by a happy climate with all necessaries, at the price of
only occasional labor, and the few who are above that necessitj,
find no proper pursuits to fill up their leisure. Books are too
scarce to enable them to improve by reading, and games grow
wearisome. No one can indulge pride or taste in the display, or
scarcely in the use, of wealth, fiy improving his lands or housee
beyond his neighbors, a man exposes himself to extortion, aod
perhaps personal danger. The pleasures, and even the follies, of
refined society, call forth talents, difi^ise wealth, and stimulate
business ; but here are no such excitements. Folly and sensu-
ality find gratification almost without efibrt, and without expen-
diture. Sloth, then, must be the repose of the poor, and the busi-
ness of the rich. From this they resort to the chase, the seine,
or the athletic game ; and fit)m those relapse to quiescent indul-
gence. Thus life is wasted in the profitless alternation of sensual
ease, rude drudgery, and active sport No elements exist for the
improvement of posterity, and successive generations pliss, like
the crops upon their fields. Were there but a disposition to im-
prove the mind, and distribute benefits, what majesty of piety
might we not hope to see in a country so favored with the means
of subsistence, and so cheap in its modes of living ! Instead of
the many objects of an American's ambition, and the unceasing
anxiety to amass property, the Burman sets a limit to his desires,
and when that is reached, gives himself to repose and enjoyment
Instead of wearing himself out in endeavors to equal or sur-
pass his neighbor in dress, food, furniture, or house, he easily
attains the customary standard, beyond which he seldom desires
to go.

When strangers come to their houses, they are hospitable and
courteous ; and a man may travel from one end of the kingdom
to the other without money ; feeding and lodging as well as the
people. But otherwise they have little idea of aiding their
neighbor. If a boat, or a wagon, &C., get into difficult}', no one
stirs to assist, unless requested. The accommodation of strangers
and travellers is particularly provided for by zayats or caravan-
saries, built in every village, and often found insulated on the
highway. These serve at once for taverns, town-houses, and
churches. Here travellers take up their abode even for weeks,
if they choose ; here public business is transacted, and here, if a

CHABACTSR. 189

pegoda be near, worship is performed. They are always as well
built as the best houses, and often are among the most splendid
structures in the kingdom. Though they furnish, however, no
accommodations but a shelter, the traveller procures at the bazar
all he finds necessary, or receives, with the utmost promptitude, a
full supply from the families aroUnd. A missionary may travel
£rom one end of the country to the other, and receive, wherever
he stops, all that the &mily can ofier.

Temperance is universaL The use of all virine, spirits, opium,
&C., is not only strictly forbidden, both by religion and the civil
law, but is entirely against public opinion. I have seen thou-
sands together for hours, on public occasions, rejoicing in all
ardor, vrithout observing an act of violence or a case of intoxica-
tion. During a residence of seven months among them, I never
saw but one intoxicated ; though the example, alas ! is not want-
iog on the part of foreigners. It is greatly to be deplored that
foreigners, particularly Moguls and Jews, tempt their boatmen
and laborers to drink ardent spirits, and have taught a few to
haoker after it

During my whole residence in the country, I never saw an
immodest act or gesture in man or woman. The female dress
certainly shocks a foreigner by revealing so much of the person ;
but no women could behave more decorously in regard to dress.
1 have seen hundreds bathe without witnessing an immodest or
even careless act, though, as in the case of woman's di-ess, the ex-
posure of so much of the person would, with us, be deemed im-
modest. Even when men go into the water by themselves, they
keep on their pisso. As to general chastity, my informants dif-
fered so greatly that I cannot speak. It is certain that, among
the native Christians, there has been much trouble produced by
the lax morality which prevails in this respect among married
people.

Children are treated with great kindness, not only by the
mother, but the father, who, when unemployed takes the young
child in his arms, and seems pleased to attend to it, while the
mother cleans her rice, or perhaps sits unemployed by his side.
In this regard of the father, girls are not made secondary, though,
as with us, boys are often more valued. I have as often seen
fethers carrying about and caressing female infants, as male.
Infanticide, except in very rare cases by unmarried females, is
utterly unknown. A widow with children, girls or boys, is much
more likely to be sought again in marriage than if she had none.

190 BUBMAB.

The want of them, cm a firat marriage, ia one of the most j&eqmt
eanaes of polygamy.

Children are almost as reverent to parents as among Al
Chinese. They continue to be greatly controUed by them, evBi
to middle life ; and the aged, when sick, are maintained with grei^
care and tenderness. Old people are always treated with mulBl
deference, and in all assemblies occupy the best seats amoof
those of their own rank.

They are called an inquisitive people, and may be more flO
than other Orientals ; but 1 saw no particular evidence of it
Perhaps much of what travellers call inquisitiveness is no more
than the common form of salutation. Instead o( "How do ym
do ?" their phrase is, "Where are you going?" They certahily
seem fond of nev«rs, but not less fond of their own old customs^
to which they cling with great tenacity.

Gravity and reserve are habitual among all classes ; caused
probably by the despotic character of the government and te
insecurity of every enjoyment Men are seldom betrayed into
anger, and still less seldom come to blows. The women are
more easily provoked, and vent their spleen with the most frantic
violence of voice and gesture, but do not strike. Both sexes
utter, in their quarrels, in default of pro&ne oaths, of wliich their
language is happily destitute, such obscene expressions as can
scarcely be conceived ; and not content with applying them to
their adversary, they heap them upon his vrife, children, and
parents. They are certainly far from being irritable, and one
daily witnesses incidents, which among us would excite instant
strife, pass offvrithout a sign of displeasure.

Gratitude is a virtue of great rarity. They never, on receiving
a present or any other favor, make any acknowledgment ; nor
is there any phrase in the language equivalent to "I thank you."
Those who have associated much with Christians, and especially
Christians themselves, are exceptions to the general rule. These,
and whoever else vrish to express thankfulness, use the phrase,
"I think it a favor," or "It is a fevor." Boodhism necessarily
tends to suppress gratitude by keeping up the constant sense of
mercenariness. If a man does another a fevor, he supposes it to
be in order to obtain merit, and seems to feel as though he con-
ferred an obligation by giving the opportunity.

Thieving and pilfering are common, but perhaps not more so
than in other countries ; and much less so than we might expect,
considering the frail and accessible nature of their houses.

" lie bai

'o, are for ihe most part peqielraleil by a few of
lie baite^t sort, and ctmiiol be regarded as stampiug the charactcc
of the nation. The inadequacy of the govenioieut to tlie protee-
tiaa of tlie people makes it surprising tbat crimiDal ofleaces aiQ .
cot more coiniuoo. Sometitties ganga of robbers circumvent ■
boiue, and while some plunder it, otliere preclude all aid. BoaJa
ue quite trequeotly robbed, aa the offenders then are not eoaily
traced. Murder not uuirequeDtly accotnpauiea these depre-
dations.

Lying, though strictly forbidden in the sacred books, prei'aikt
lUDong all classes. They may be said to be a nation of lianb '
Tbey never place confideuce in the word of each other, and bU
dealing is done with chicanery and much disputing. Kven whea
delected in a lie, no aliame is manifested ; and unless put on oathfr
which a Burman greatly dreads, no reliance whatever can be
placed on the word of any man. Of courso there are hoiiorabla
uceptions to this general character, aa tliere are in the othes

There, perhaps, never was a people more ofieninvely proiiiL
From the monarch, who adopts the most grandiloquent titles h»
can invent, to the pettiest officer, every man seems bloated wiA. . '
eelf-«onceiL Accustomed to conquest imder every king siiio»
Alompro, and holding ail the adjacent trilws in vassalage, tli^,
cm; tbemeelvea in a lordly manner. The meanest citizen seemK
to (eel himself superior to the Pcguans, Karens, Tongthoos, &C.,
around liim. Gradations of rank are most minutely and tenu-
cjously maintained, and are eignihed in every tiling. Iloueei,
dreBs, betel-box, water-goblet, cap, unibrella, horse'equipment^
&C, are all adjusted by rule. To ride on an elephant ia Ihe priv-
ilege only of royalty and high office, tliough often granted as
a indulgence to others. The king alone, and his immediate
(bmily, usea white umbrella; the next have them plded,the next
^ red or fringed, next green, &c Siibdlviaions of these grades
Me marked by the niuuber of umbrellas of each particular
coior. Thus one has twenty, another ten, another eight, and bo
downward.

The very language in which common actions are mentioned iB
made to miuister to this nicety. Thus there are tlirce or four
nays to speak of every thing, such as eating rice, walking out,
sleeping, speuking, dying, one of which is always used of the
king, another of priests, another of rulers, another of common
peisouB. It would be (Ui inaulc to use a lower pliiase ihui tlie
person ia strictly entitled to, though a higher one is sometimea

ufed af a sign of special respect The same difieraiee is mil

in the words for walking abroad, and many moie.

This liaughtiness is manifested as grossly to foreign ambaai-
dors as is done in China. They are treated as sopfdiantB and
tribute-bearers. It has generally been contrived to have diem
presented on the great ''beg-pardon day," which occurs once ia
three months, when the nobles are allowed an audience widi dia
king, and lay at his feet costly presents.

Both tlieir religion and government contribute to this pride.
Holding it as certain that they have passed throu^ infinilB
transmigrations, they are sure they must have been highly meri-
torious in former states of existence to entitle them to be human
beings, who are but little lower than Nats, and stand the highest
possible chance for heaven.

Burmaiis seem particularly addicted to intrigue and chicaneiy.
The nature of the government tends to this, as will be seen in a
subsequent chapter. In dealing with Europeans, they are also
tempted to such practices by consciousness of ignorance, and
by having often been shamefully overreached. But while eva-
siveness and subtlety are discernible in all their intercourse with
government men and foreigners, those of the same village seem
to do business in good faith ; and, when a ruler or European has
established a character for fair and punctual dealmg, he is seldom
deceived by those in his employ.

That {lulished suavity of manners which so strikingly charac-
terizes Hindoos, even of low caste, is wholly wanting among the
Burinnns. They have nothing which resembles a bow, or the
shaking of hands. When one is leaving a house, he merely says,
" I am going," and the other replies, " Go." On receiving a gift or
a kuid ofhce, an acknowledgment is scarcely ever uttered or ex-
pected. When great reverence is intended, the palms of the
hand are put together, and thus raised to the forehead, adoringly,
as in worship ; but this, of coiu*se, rarely occiu-s, except in ad-
dressing superiors, and is then never omitted.

In general, they are uncleanly. Some regard, to be sure, ought
to bo hnd to the light fabrics they wear. If we wore a white
jacket as long as we do one of black bombazine, it would look
filthy enough. Yet it is not more clean. Burmans are fond of
appearing neat, and the better classes, when seen abroad, are gen-
erally voiy tidy. But then- skin, their hair, and their houses, are
decidedly slovenly. Persons are always seen bathing at the river
or public wells ; but the proportion to the whole population is very
small. Very little is accomplished toward removing the filth

1 iheir bodiea by iheir daily ulilutions, as ihey Eeldoin i
roup, and tbeir gIuq is generally mora or Jesa moistened with oiL
Few are witbout veniiiu iu their heads, oud (vaelutig coninicni
dothes i^ done only at very dietanl inlervalfl.

This brief delineation of character may serve to show how di^
Urted Dud partial are the views which mere theoriala take of
hoathen siiciely. Formeriy, it was llie fashion lo ascribe the grea»«
eat purity aud dignity to an uncivilized and primitive «tiite of man*
cere, und to expatiate on tlie crimes, fbUiee, and efieniiuacy, of
morn artificial aod polished communilieB. itiore recently, it hw-
been the fashiou to consider all who have not received our cusr
loins, and our religion, aa Huok in degradation ; devoid of everjt
moral and natural excellciic« ; and destitute of every species o?
liuuiun happineaa. The trutk, as to Burmoh M least, lies belweelb

Women probably have their place assigned them as correcdj
ia Buniiah as id any other tiation. Their intercourse is opeir
and um'eslricted, not only witli their countrymen, but with for-
eigners. The universal custom is to give them tbe custody of
iteir husbands' cask; and by thoin ia done ilie cliief port of nil
buying and selling, both in shops and in tbe bazar. They clean
rice, bring water, weave, and cook ) occaaionnlly assisting in the
management of a boat or the labors of tlm field. But hard work,
of all binds, tbe univeraal custom assigns to men. Tlioy are by. ■
no means denied education, nor ia any impediment placed in the
iray of their attaiiiiii!; it; but the monastic character of the
schools preveniB udiuissiua there. Private Hcbools tor girls any
uot uncommon in large places. Females of tbe higher clasBea-
do Dot contemo industry, and afiecl the languid listlessnese of
aome Orientals. They furnish their servants with useful em-
ployment, over which they preside with attention. A British,
ambassador, when formally presented to the mother of the queen,
observed in one of the galleries three or four looms at work,
operated by the maidens of her household. Such a fact reminds
ta of the occupations of Greek ladies, as intimated in the advico-
Telemachus gives Penelope, in Homer's Odyssey ; —

"Retire, O queen 1 thy household task reaume )
Tend, with thy maids, the labois of the loom.
There rule, ftoni pubhc care remote and free :
That care to man belongs."

Burmans cherish none of those apprehensions respecting
wtpliu population, wluch dishonor s( - - _

194 BDEMAH.'

Like the Chinese, they deem the increase of sulgects the £^017
and strength of the throne. Hence their readiness to have fiM>
eigners inarry Bunnan women. Hence, too, they are not allowed
to leave the kingdom, nor are the female progeny of mixed
marriages. Every ship is searched before leaving the country,
and heavy penalties would be incurred by the attempt to smugf^
away any female.

Marriages are not often contracted before puberty, and an
consummated without the sanction of priests or magistratea
Parents do not make matches for children ; and every youth loola
out his own companion. As in more civilized countries, how-
ever, this reasonable boon is denied the children of royal blood.
Among common people, when a young man has made his choice,
he declares himself to the mother, or some friendly matron, and,
if there be no objection, he is permitted to frequent the house;
and something like a regular courtship takes place. He con-
tinues his intimacy till all parties are agreed, when he is admitted
to eat with the daughter, and sleep at the house. He is then
her husband, and the neighbors gradually ascertain the &ct The
ratification of marriage consists in eating out of the same disiu
Whenever this is seen, marriage is inferred : indeed, if it can be
proved, they are married, and must live as husband and vnfe.
After marriage, the young man must reside vnth his wiie's par-
ents three years, three months, and three days ; serving them as
a son. If he choose not to do this, and the bride be vnlling to
leave her parents' home, he must pay them sixty ticals ; and i^ at
a subsequent stage of his domestication, he choose to depart, he
pays such a proportion as can be agreed on.

Among the Mgher classes, marriages are more ceremonious.
On the wedding day, the bridegroom sends to his intended, suits
of apparel and jewelry. Mutual friends assemble with him at
the house of the bride, where a liberal entertainment is given.
The hands of the couple are solemnly joined, in the presence of
the company, and they partake out of the same dish a little
pickled tea.

Polygamy is authorized by law, but is exceedingly rare, except
among the highest classes. The original wife generally retains
preeminence, and the others perform subordinate duties in the
bouse, and attend her when she goes abix>ad.

Divorces are shockingly common. Tf both parties agree on
the measure, they have only to go before a magistrate, and de-
clare their desire, when he grants the separation, without any
further ceremony than requiring them to eat pickled tea before

DIVORCES — DISEASES. 195

Inm, as was done at their marriage. If one party seek to put
away the other, mM'e trouble and expense is requisite. A pro-
cess of law must be commenced, and a regular trial had. It
is therefore seldom attempted. Women may put away their
husbands in the same manner, and with the same facilities, as
husbands put away wives. Each party, in all divorces, is at lib-
erty to marry again. According to the written law, when a man
and wife separate by mutual consent, the household goods are
equally divided, the father taking the sons, and the mother the
daughters.

instead of the expensive mode of putting away a husband or
wife which common law furnishes, a much easier is often re-
sorted to with complete success. The party aggrieved merely
turns priest, or nun ; and the matrimonial bond is at once dis-
Bolved. They may return to secular life at' any time, and marry
another; but for appearances' sake, this is generally deferred
some months.

In the British provinces, considerable effort has been made to
check the frequency of divorces, but without much success.

|—

' It will be supposed, from the description given of the salu-
brious climate and simple diet of the Burmans, that diseases are
few, and the people generally healthy. Such is the fact Life is
often prolonged to eighty, and even ninety years ; though a per-
son is old at sixty. No general pestilence has ever been known
but the cholera, which seldom appears, and then in a milder
form than in most other countries.

The principal diseases are fever, rheumatism, consumption,
and bowel complaints. Consumption is a common mode by which
old persons are carried off, but it attacks youth comparatively
seldom. Intermittent fevers are scarcely known, but remittent
and continued types are vei*y common. The stone and scrof-
ula are almost unknown ; but dropsy, and asthma, and hernia,
are not uncommon. The small-pox comes round occasionally,
and carries off great numbers, especially children. Inoculation
has been a good deal resorted to, since the English war ; but,
though great efforts have been made, for twenty yeai*s, to introduce
vaccination, it has not succeeded. Matter has been brought
from Bengal, Madras, England, France, and x\merica ; put up in
every possible mode, but in vain. '■ Fifteen or twenty healthy per-
sons, in the full course of coW-pox, were sent to Maulmain, a
few years since, at the expense of the East India Company, from
whom many were vaccinated, but only a few successfully ; and

ftomtfaowkeoaUiiol be propagated agrin.* LepRMj , m ■eicnl
fantm, is leen at the great cltie% where ha fictiiiia odlect ia •
aeparate qoarter, and lire chiefly hj begging — the only begpa
in the coontry. The general form ii that which attacks ikt
■ndler jointiL I mw many who had lost all the fingers and toflik
and some, both hands and feet. In some cases, die nose il»
diaqypears. It does not seem moch to shorten life, and is not
¥ery painful, except in its first stage& Those with whran I COB-
▼ened declared that they had not felt any pain fisr years, b
many cases, it ceases to increase after a time ; the stonqis of As
limbs heal, and the disease is in fiict cured. I could not hesr
of any efiectual remedy: it seems in these cases to stop of it-
self It can scarcely be considered contagious, though instances
are sometimes giren to prore it so. Persons suffering under
it, are by law separated entirely firom other society; but thdr
fimiilies generally retire with them, mingling and cohabiting fox
life. The majority of the children are sound and healthy, but it
is sa^ frequently to reappear in the second or third generatioD.
<• Lepers, and those who consort with them, are compelled to
»wear a conspicuous and peculiar hat, made like a shaQow,
conical basket The children, whether leprous or not, are al-
lowed to intermarry only with their own class.

Cutaneous diseases are common, arising, doubtless, partly
fh)m general want of cleanliness, and partly fit)m the firequent
checks which perspiration must receive, where so little clo-
thing is worn by day or night It is thought by the natives
that those diseases arise fiom the habitual and free consumption
of fish. The itch is very common. I have seen neighborhoods
whore almost every individual was afiected. A sort of tetter, or
whitish spots, spreading over parts of the body, is exceedingly
common, but does not seem to affect the general health. It is of
two kinds ; one, in which the spots retain sensitiveness, and
anoth(^r, in whicli they ore entirely insensible. The natives re-
gard the Inttcr kind as indicating approaching leprosy..

Ophthnlniln is connnon. Besides the brilliance of a tropical
MHif fbtttt which their li^ht turban in no degree defends the eyes,
it Is ptittmhttt that the general practice of keeping new-bom
iHllttUfi ht rtHMim but little darkened, and taking them into the
\^\^p^\ ilrt.y» IMW^V \\n\x^ n tondiMicy to produce this. I never saw
\^ Hmhumh *it|Mln!i Lurs wnm^a is much more rare than with
M!^ S»ut it*******-**!!^* >vwir» n miUlor f<inn. Tliere are, occasionally,
p^mp \ms\\\\p iHto^i*! (If tho g()itrc, said to be common in the
{\\A\f\s\ t h}P^\\i I M«tvt«r im\Y n case ; nor had any person of whom
I Inqnltiitl.

DISEASES — MEDICAL PBACTICE. 197

Among children, worms seem to produce the most frequent
and fiital diseases, probably owing to the want of animal food,
nd the unrestricted use of vegetables and fruits, ripe and un-
1^ Teething is far less hazardous than with us, and is rarely
ItfaL Tlie natives scarcely think of ascribing any bad s3rmptoma
to^e process of dentition.

^%ere are many medical men, but few who are respectable in
dieir profession. As a body, they are the worst of quacks. They
are divided into two schools. One is called Dot; literally, ** ele-
ment" These give no medicine, but operate wholly by regula-
ting the diet They are, in general, the most respectable class,
and, in many cases, succeed very well; particulariy in fevers,
where they allow an unlimited quantity of acidulated drink, par-
ticularly tamarind water. The other class is called Say ; literally,
* medicine." lliese go to the opposite extremes, giving enor-
mous doses of the most heterogeneous substances. They some-
times boast that a particular pill is made up of forty, fifty, or sixty
ingredients, deeming the prospect of hitting the cure to be in
proportion to the number. The medicines are generally of a
befl^ng kind, even in fevers. In all the bazars are stalls of
apothecaries, who display a most unimaginable assortment of
roots and barks, pods and seeds. I have seen English walnut-
ahells exhibited prominently ; indeed, whatever is astringent, is
carefully saved. Mercury and arsenic have long been in use,
and are, in general, given with discretion ; but nearly all their
remedies are drawn from the vegetable kingdom.

Both classes of doctors, occasionally, add conjuring and charms
to their other practices, and many medicines are vended to neu-
tralize the effects of these dreaded mysteries. As to anatomy,
they know nothing. They indeed make pretensions to this science,
and have books upon it ; but the sum of their knowledge is, that
the human body has three hundred and sixty bones, nine hun-
dred veins, nine liundi*ed muscles, discharges impurities by nine
apertures ! &c. Dissection is never thought of.

A favorite treatment, particularly for local pains, is hni-king — a
practice similar to the champooing of the Hindus, but some-
times performed more roughly. For ordinary pains, the limbs
and body are gently squeezed with the hands, or pressed and
kneaded. For sharper pains, the elbow is employed, and for
extreme cases, operation is performed by standing on the patient,
with naked feet, and carefully moving about on the part affected.
I found the gentler plan a great relief for pain in the bowels, or
rheumatism, and exceedingly refresJiing, afler great fatigue. It
17*

106 BUUIAfL

often proved a delightful soporific, when nothing else woukl
enable me to sleep.

The treatment of small-pox is very \ike that formerly praetised
in this country. The air is carefully excluded by curtains, and
little or no medicine is given. The skin is occasionally washed
with spirits, or the patient bathes in water. The latter pin >
seems eminently hazardous, but missionaries have not only bathed
daily in cold water in every stage of the pustules, with, safety, hot
found it a delightful relief

The profession of midwifery is confined wholly to womea,
and it is exceedingly rare that any difficulty occurs. Their
practice, however, seems very barbarous. It consists chiefly in
hniking the patient, and fi*equently with the most revolting vio-
lence. Afler delivery, she is roasted before a hot fire for several
days, while fi*esh air is carefully excluded fi*om the apartment
If any difficulty afterward occurs, it is attributed to her not
having been sufficiently sweated. This roasting exceeds io
severity any thing which we should think endurable. The
amount of wood allowed for this purpose would suffice the
fiunily, in ordinary times, for months.

Funerals are conducted with many demonstrations of grief on
the part of immediate relations, or hired mourners. No sooner
is a person dead, than the nearest female relatives set up loud
lamentations, talking the while, so as to be heard far and near.
The house is soon filled with the friends of the family, who suf-
fer the relations to vent their grief^ while they assume all the
necessary cares and arrangements. The body is washed in
warm water, and laid out upon a mat or coUch, in good clothing;
generally white, which is the mourning color. A coffin is pre-
pared, ornamented more or less, according to station, in which
the corpse remains several days, when it is carried in procession
to the place of the dead, and there burned, with the cofiin.
Sometimes the place of the viscera, and parts of the coffin and
funeral car, are stuffed with gunpowder ; so that, when the con-
flagration reaches a certaui point, the deceased is bloum up to
the Nats ! Exploded into heaven ! The charges are borne by
the friends, who bring to the house money and gifts, amounting
sometimes to a considerable surplus. The principal expenses
are the customary donatives to priests, who benefit largely on
these occasions ; but the funeral cars are often costly, and it is
usual to give alms to the poor.

Infants are carried to the grave in their basket cradle, su&-

nmuLALn. 190

pended firom a pole between men's shoulders, with a neat canopy
of fringes, drapeiy, &c. The mother, instead of being dressed
!^ for the occaflion, follows weeping, clad in the common and
soiled raiment, worn during her maternal assiduities, around the
bed of death. They are not burned, but buried ; and the cradle,
placed updde down on the grave, preserves for a while the iden-
tity of the spot, in an appropriate and touching manner. All are
buried, without burnings who are under fifteen years of age, or die
of small-i>ox, or in child-birth, or are drowned.

When a rich man dies, the body is cleansed of the internal
viscera, and the fluids squeezed as much as possible fix>m the
flesh. Honey and spices are then introduced, and the body, en-
cased in beeswas^ remains in the house sometimes for . month&
When the time for burning arrives, the town wears the appear-
ance of a holiday. Musicians are hired, relations are feasted, and
throngs of people attend in their best clothes. The body, when
brought out, is placed on a sort of triumphal car, some resisting,
and others propelling, with such earnestness and confusion, that
the coffin seems in danger of being dropped between the house
and the car. One party cries, " We will bury our dead ; " the other
Tociferates, ^ You shall not take away my JEHend." When placed
in the car, the same struggle is renewed, and two or three days
are spent in this manner; the people manifesting all the jollity
of a festival. It is, of course, understood that the resistance must
not be serious ; and the party who carry out the body ultimately
succeed. The rest of th^ ceremony resembles the funeral of a
priest, described in a subsequent chapter. Sometimes the body
is carried round about, that the ghost may not find its way back
to the house. The remains of great personages, after burning,
are collected in small urns of glass, ivory, gold, or silver, and pre-
served in the family. Persons dying of cholera, which is deemed
infectious, are not burned, but must be buried the same day.

The following account of the burning of an At-wen-woon's
wife, from Crawfurd,* gives a very satisfactory idea of a court
funeral, which I had no opportunity of seeing.

"The insignia of the At-vven-woon were borne in front ; then
came presents for the priests, and alms to be distributed amongst
the beggars, consisting of sugar-cane, bananas, and other fruits,
with garments. An elephant, on which was mounted an ill-
looking fellow, dressed in red, followed these. The man in red
had in his hands a box, intended to carr}' away the bones and

* Journal of an Embassy to the Court of Ava.

of the deeeaaed. Tln& it seenn, is «B i^iioiniiuoiu oflb^ M
p c ifo i ui ed by a criminal, who is pankmed for his ■erncea. Eni x
the eiepbant is tiioiigfac to be comaminaied by being tfaos c» x
ployed, and for this reason an old or maimed one is aeleetoil la
which is afterwards turned loose into the foresL A band tf
mnric followed the elephant ; after which came a long fins tf
priestesses, or nuns, all old and infinn ; dien came ten or twcbl
young women, attendants of the deceased, d res s e d in while, mi
carr)'jng her insignia. The slate palanquins of the deceased mi
her husband; the bier; the female relations of the &nuly,camBd 4
in flmall litlen, covered with white cloths ; the husbuidi^ ani £
male relations on foot, dressed in i^-hite, followed in order. TbB ^
queen's aunt ; the wives of the Wnon-gyee, the At-wen-woon^ a
and Woon-dauks, with other females of distinction, closed Ab :
proceHsion.

^ The body was conveyed to a broad and elerated brick terrace^
whcrv) it wfis to be burnt We assembled on this to see the cere- "
monicH to bo performed. The coffin, which was very splendid,
was Htripfwd of the large gold plates with which it was ornft-
monted, and the class of persons whose business it is to bun
tlio iKxlifiH of the dead, were seen busy in preparing the materials
of tlio funeral pile. This is a class hereditarily degraded, living
In villfigoH apart from the rest of the inhabitants, and held to be
NO iiiipiiro timt the rest of the people never intermarry with
tlioin. By the common people they are called Thviba-raja, the
ittyiiiojo^y of wliicli is uncertain; but their proper name is
VhttmUda^ pn)iiouncf!(l by the Burmans SanMa, ' This is obri-
oiiMJy i\w Hnumirit nnme of the Hindoo outcasts. The Chan-
da Iiih, unitiul with the lepers, beggars, and coffin-makers, are
utu\vr tlin nutjiority of a Wun, or governor; hence called Lc-
mtmnu <»r *j(ov(irnor of the four jurisdictions.' He is also
oiTiiHiniinlly riillud A'-rwat-wun, which may be translated,
*Kfivttrtinr nf tlii) incurables.' This person is by no means
liliiiM«ir tiiut nf the outcasts, but, on the contrary, a dignitary
of llio Hliilfs Liko all other public functionaries, he has no
nviiwihI Hiilfiry, hut draws his subsistence from the narrow
rtimHirritN of ilio dogradod classes whom he rules. Their
vI11hk(*n urn nnrntHHod by him in the usual manner; and being
liivnMlnil with tlin iidtiiiiiiHtration of justice over these outcasts,
lilt ilrnwpi tlio untml |N)n]uiHitos from this resource. A consider-
itlilo unurri* of profit to him also is the extortion practised upon
llio nii»ro litNiNir.Uiblu part of the community. The scar of an

WVmMAIA. fKjfl

Bore or wound win often be sufficient pretext to eztoft
^ney firom the individual marked with it, to enable him to
firom being driven from society. If a wealthy individual
a son or daughter suffering from leprosy, or a disease
wiunli may be mistaken for it, he will have to pay dearly to avoid
being expelled, with his whole fiimily, from the city. The Chan-
dalafl, or burners of the dead, were represented to me as having
crigirmted in criminals condemned to death, but having their
pmriiflhment commuted. They differ from the Taong-m'hu in
tins — that the punishment of the former descends to their
posterity ; whereas that of the latter is confined to the individual.
** In a short time, the mourners, consisting of the female rela-
tioDB and servants of the deceased, sat down at the foot of the
t coffin, and began to weep and utter loud lamentations. Their
grie^ however, was perfectly under control; for they ceased,
f as if by word of command, when the religious part of the cere-
; mony conunenced. It sometimes happens that, when the fiun-
j ilies of the deceased have few servants or relations, hired mourn-
ers are employed for the occasions. The first part of the office
of the burners was to open the coffin, turn the body prone,
bend back the lower limbs, place six gilded billets of wood
■{ under its sides, and four over it The Rahans, or priests, had
.1 hitherto neither joined the procession nor taken any share in the
funeral rites, but were assembled in great numbers under a shed
at no great distance. The high-priest, or Sure d'liau, and another
priest, now came forward, aiid, along with tlie husband, took in
their hands the end of a web of white cloth, of which the other
was affixed to the head of the coffin. They sat down, and the
friends and principal officers of government joined them. The
priest, followed by the assembly, with their hands joined, mut-
tered the following prayer or creed, viz. ' We worship Boodh ;
'We worship his law;' 'We worship his priests;' and then
repeated the five commandments — * Do not kill;' *Do not
steal ; ' ' Do not commit adultery ; ' ' Do not lie ; ' * Do not
drink wine.' The husband poured water upon the cloth from a
coco-nut shell, pronouncing, after the priest, these words : ' Let
the deceased, and all present, partake of the merit of the cere-
monies now performing.' The assembly pronounced the words,
'We partake;' or, 'We accept.' The pouring of water upon
the ground is considered by the Burmans tlie most solemn vow.
It is as if it were calling the earth to witness, or rather the guar-
dian Nat, or tutelary spirit of the place, who, it is supposed, will
hold the vow in remembrance, should men forget it. Two other

;

priests followed the first, repeating the same, or shnilar pta^rt j^
and ceremonies. After this, the company retired to some dl^
tance, and fire was set to the fimeral pile. Notwithstanding dll
pomp and parade of this ceremony, it was, upon the whole, nrfj
solemn, and indeed, in all respects, scarcely even decoraoi;.
The persons not immediately concerned in the perfbrmanoe flf
the fiineral rites, laughed and talked as at a common meetiBf ;
and the solemnity of the occasion seemed to afifect no one beyonl
the husband, the son, and the female relations.''

Among the chief amusements are the drama, dancing, tuniUii|i
music, athJetic feats, and chess. The firft four of these, aswidi
other nations, are generally connected in one exhibition. TbB
dramatic representations are rather respectable ; though the best
performers are generally Siamese, who, in these matters, are said
to excel all others in India. The performances are always apat f
to the public, generally under a temporary canopy, extended otw ^
the street ; and in passing, I sometimes stopped a few moment i'
but not long enough to understand the plot The dresses an ^
modest, but showy, and apparently expensive. Symmes pro- ■'
nounces the dialogue to be ^ spirited, witliout rant, and the acting
animated, without being extravagant"

Clowns, harlequins, and buffoons, whose performances are not
different fix>m our own, fill up the intervals between the acts.
Theatres are not estaUished at any appropriate building. The
actors are always perambulatory, and perform at the sole expense
of persons giving an entertainment

The dancing is the reverse of ours; being performed with very
slow and stately movements, and less with the feet than with
other parts of the body. The dancer walks round the stage, ex-
tending his arms, and placing himself in every possible attitude.
The head, arms, back, wrists, knees, and ankles, are strained this
way and that, keeping time to loud music. No figures or com-
binations are attempted, but each dancer makes gesticulations,
according to his own ideas of gracefulness. Males and females
do not dance together ; indeed, there are scarcely any female dan-
cers, the men assuming female costume for the occasion. Their
long hair, done up hla femme, makes the deception so complete
that strangers are confident they are females. The English
practice of dancing, one^s self, for amusement, is quite astonishing
in all parts of India. The effort seems downright di'udgery, and
the more absurd as they can have it done for them, better, and

AMUSEMENTS. — MUSIC. 903

yet so cheap, by those whose profession it is ! 1 have often been
watched with astonishment while walking backward and forward
on the shore, when my boat was moored for the night They
are amazed that a man who might sit, should choose to walk, or
ftaXg if able to lie down, he should choose to sit

Tlie boxing difiers little firom similar abominations in England
except in being conducted with far less barbarity. The first ap-
pearance of blood terminates a contest

Cock-fighting is very prevalent in some parts of the country.
The fowls are of extraordinary courage, and the spurs are armed
with gafilea Engagements of this kind may be seen daily in
die streets.

Foot-ball is very common, and played with great skill. The
ball is a hollow sphere, of split ratan, froia six to ten inches in
diameter, which, being perfectly light, is thrown high in air at
each stroke. TTie object is to keep it aloft It is struck not only
with the instep, but with the head, shoulder, knee, elbow, heel,
or sole of the foot, with almost unerring precision. This is cer-
tainly a remarkable amusement for sedentary Orientals, and
seems to be derived firom the active Chinese, ^om I have seen
at this game in several other parts of the East

Chess is common, especially among the better classea It is
in some sort sanctioned by the sacred books ; at least, instances
are there recorded of celestial personages having played at the
game. The board is like ours; but iustead of a queen, they
have a prime minister, whose moves are more restricted.

All games of chance are strictly forbidden by their religion,
and may be said to be generally avoided. Several such games
are, however, in use. One of these is played with cowries thrown
into a bowl, and seems to be the same practised by schoolboys
in America, called props. It prevails extensively, and the jin-
gling of the shells may often be heard all night I several times
saw dominoes played. Card-playing is by no means unknown,
though less general than many other games. The card is about
the size of ours, but the pack is more numerous and more beau-
tiful. I had one offered me for sale for about twenty dollars,
which had elaborate paintings on every ctu-d.

The people may be said to be addicted to music, though few
are skilful in producing it. The common street music is horri-
ble ; but among the great men 1 found several performers, who
showed not only great skill, but genuine taste. It is remarkable

that all their tunea are on a minor and phintiTo key, a
in semitouea and alurs.

Their Tsriety of matrunMntB ia not largq ; and, I ilitnfc-, tn 4
specified in the ibUowing eniuoeratioD : —

TbeMtvng, or gat
la « ion of Ml, ^yaj
like that of a clo^w
a aballow TTOoden bovl
with the edge tuniad
in, compoaed of dg,
bismuth, and connc
It ia evidentlj bor
rowed from the CU-
nese, though made bj
themaelTea. It is of n-
riouB aizea, from a £-
ameter of three or fimr
inehea, to that of tmatf
or thirty. It ia sttwk
with a mallet corered with rags or leather, and produces a deepr
eoleniD tone, not unpleasant.

The Pan-morgi/ee, or drum, ia not unlike our great band-diomi
but much heavier, being made, aa all their druma are, of solid
wood, excavated. The parchment is stretched by the same v-
rangemeuL

The Toting, or S'haig, «
Bowulaie, is a collection of sraiU
druma, suspended rotmd the b-
slde of a ricbly-carved 6a»
of wood, about three fbet hi{^
They regularly iliminiali in n9
Bxan that of a two-gallon nwas-
iu« to that of a pint Th*
player aits within the circle, and
yiiih hie bands produces a nids
tuneoraccompanimenL Drum-
sticks are not often used. In tlte
full band the boundaw is never
omitted.
The Mtgoma, or Me-iyovjtg, is a guitar, in the shape of a croc-
odile, with the strings extending irom shoulder to tail, supported
by a bridge in the centre, and played vrith the fingers.

Fiddle.

ITT

MUSICAL IlfSTRUMENTS. 305

The iSbung* is a harp, and resembles that used in Wales, but
much smalJer and less perfect At one end of a hollow base an
arm rises with a full curve, to which the strings being fastened, it
gives them different lengths. The performer gives semitones by
applying the finger of the left hand, occasionally, near the end of
1 string, which has the effect of shortening it He performs
however, in general with both hands. I have heard really de-
ligfatful music firom this instrument It is of various sizes, from
two to four feet long.

The Tey-auj or Ta-yaw^ is a
violin, with two or three strings,.
j-^ played with a bow. The belly
is sometimes carved out of a
soUd piece. The tone is &r
fi*om being pleasant

The Kyay-uyng is a. collection of twelve or sixteen small
gongs, set either in a square or circular frame, varying In their tones
according to a just scale. They are struck with small sticks an
inch in diameter and six or seven long, covered with cloth. From
this instrument, also, accompanied by the voice, I have heard very
sweet music, particularly when performed upon by the Meawade
Woongyee at Ava. It is an instrument common to all Farther
India, and deserves to be introduced into Europe.

The Kyay-Kovk, called by Symmes Kyezoup, is a similar in-
strument, differing only in the form of the frame in which the
gongs are fixed.

The Pa-to-lah is a row of flat pieces of bamboo, the largest two-
inches broad, and twelve or fifteen long, placed on horizontal
strings, and struck with a little hammer in each hand. It is very
ancient, and has doubtless given rise to our instrument resembling
it, made of pieces of glass.

The Pay-looay is a sort of hautboy. The sound is that of an.
inferior flute. The mouth-piece is like that of a clarionet

The Hneh is a clarionet without keys, the end opening very
wide, like a trumpet The sound is keen and shrill. It is al-
ways in the public bands of music, but I never heard pleasant
tones from it

It is remarkable that Burmans are entirely ignorant of whis-
tling. I have seen them stare intently on a person who did so,
and saying to one another, in surprise, " Why ! he makes music
with his mouth ! "

VOL. I. 18

906 BUBMAH.

Tlie manufactures of this country are hy no means ccmtempti*
ble, and many trades are carried on skilfully, particularly in lai|B
cities.

Ship-building, on European models, is conducted on an exten-
sive scale at llaiigoon. Colonel Franklin computes that, firom 1790
to 1801, three thousand tons were built thus in that city. Hie
cost of such vessels is a third less than at Calcutta, a half less than
at Bombay. Native vessels are very numerous, owing to the
absence of roads, and the great size and number of the water-
courses. These are very ingeniously constructed, and admirably
adapted to inland navigation, though utterly unlike anything seen
in this country. Some of them are of two hundred or two hun-
dred and fifty tons burden. The canoes are often large enough to
carry eight or nine tons. In excavating these, they do not first
remove half the tree, but open only a narrow groove, and, after
the excavation, widen it by fire. A single log thus makes a boat
seven or eight feet wide. When opened to this extent, it is com-
mon to add a board, a foot wide, round the edge.

Good earthen ware is made in several parts of the empire,
some of which is exported. It consists for the most part of water-
jars and cooking utensils, of various sizes, generally unglazed
These are said to be the best made in India, and are very cheap.
A jar the size of a common dinner-pot costs but about three cents.
Some of them are the largest I ever saw, and contain fi*om sisty
to one hundred gallons, thick, black, and well glazed.

The lamps are of earthen ware, about eight
inches high, much on the ancient classical
model. The vnck is the pith of a tvng.

They make no porcelain, and indeed need very
little, their utensils of turned wood, and their
lackered cups and boxes answering the purpose.
Specimens of this lackered wai-e have been

Barman Lamp. ^^^ homo by mauy of tlic missiouaries. They
are first woven, like a basket, of fine split ratan, and rendered
water-tight by successive layers of varnish. The figures are
scratched on with a sharp style, and colored by spreading on
paint, which abides in these traces, but is wiped off with a cloth
firom the smooth surface. Of these boxes, &c., there is a great
variety ; some large enough to contain a bushel. Those about
fi>ur inches in diameter, and the same depth, are generally used
as coon-boxes. The best of this ware is made by the Shyans.

Jewelry is made at all the principal places, but it is rare that

MAjnjFACTVBBB. 307

WKf Hang of mnch teste and beauty is produced in this vny,

~ ' and filigree work fbnn their chef d'cBUrrea ; and Bomo

nhich I brought home, would do honor even to a
One of these is a. silver box, such as is used tor tfae
Mnipered quck-lima in coon ; another is a coco-nut shell, on
which are the twetvB signs of the zodiac, according U) their names
and ideas. I have never seen more beautiful embossing than
ttese present Gems are beautifidly cut and polished.

&) ^ding ibej certainly excel ; putting on tlte leaf with great
precisioD, and making it resist dampneas. No Emropean picture-
fi«me«, though kept with the greatest care, withstand the long and
pervasive damp of the rainj season. But these artists make their
gilding endure not only in the house, and on the iron lees of pa-
godas, but eren.^en spread over common mortar on the outsida
of a building. To give both Bmoothness and tact, they use noth'
ingbut the common thitsay (literally "wood-oil") of the countiy,
which is laid on repeatedly, like succeasive coats of black paint
The aaaayers of pre-
cious metals are expert
and exact ; and, as
money goes by weight,
aikd is, therelbre, con-
stantly getting cut to
pieces, and alloyed,
these persons are nu-

ple of ihcm at work in
the Kangoon custom-
house, and presume
the sketcli will make
the process intelligible.
A small furnncc is set
AiBjai a in the eartli, urged by

a double bellows, made
of tvvo large bamboos. From each bamboo a small tube near the
bottom conveys the air direcily to the fire. The melted metal is
cast into cakes, weighing two or three dollars, and thus passes
into circulation, to be again cut into pieces as occasion may
require.

Cotton and silk goods are made, in stifficient quantity to supply
the country. Some of them are fine and beautiful; but in gener-
al they are coarse and strong, and always high-priced. In get-

ting the seed finom the cotton, thej muremlly use a smdl wd
mgauoaa mTJiinp, of which a good idea may be got fitun tiv

picture. It conneta of two ■■!
eylinden^ in contact, one cf
which, moved by a crank, tnm
the other: the cottcm is dmri i
through, and leaves the seed be- i
hind. One person cleans thus tw i
▼iss, or thirty-six pounds, per dif. . t
About two thirds of the wei^ k i
left in seed. The seeds, sprinkled i
with oil, are used for torches at festivals, &C., in the open aii;
The whole process of making cotton and silk goods firom Ae
raw material is managed by women. The spinning-wheel is
like ours, only smaller, and without legs, as the people sit on
the floor. In preparing the rolls, they have nothing like carda^
and, after whipping it fine with a fturier's bow, they form the
rolls with their fingers.

Their loom differs in no respect, that I could discover, firom our
conunon loom in America, except that for foot-paddles they have
rings or stirrups, in which the feet are placed. When figures are
to be introduced, however, the mechanism is ingenious, and the
labor very tedious. The colors for this purpose are each on a
separate bobbin, or shuttle, passed back and forth with the finger,
as the weaving advances. In this manner, the stripes have both
warp and woof of the same color, like ribbons put together.
Sometimes a more curious process is adopted, which carries the
figure aside into other stripes, in a manner which no British loom
could imitate. To comb the warp, they use the fioiit of the Sah-
thah, a strong grass, eight or ten feet high, with jagged, thorny
leaves. The fi'uit is the size of an ostrich egg, having a shell
like a young pine bur. This being removed leaves a sharp,
strong hair, which makes an excellent brush for the purpose.

The process of dyeing is well understood, and the colors beau-
tifiil and various ; but, probably for want of proper mordants, or
fi^om frequent wetting and strong sun, they are apt to be tran-
sient. The colors of silks, however, are permanent

Near Summei-kyoimg saltpetre is obtained ; and the principal
occupation of many of the inhabitants of that region is the man-
ufkcture of gunpowder. This is of pretty good quality, but the
process of making it I had no opportunity of seeing. In making
fire-works, which are liberally used on public occasions, particu-

MANUFACTURES. 209

Inly rockets, they diqday great ingenuity. Some of them are of
incredible magnitude. 1 have seen some from eight to twelve feet
Umg^and four to seven inches in diameter. They are sometimes
sdll larger. Coz declares that when he was at Ava, he saw some
made which e<xitalned ten thousand pounds of powder each.
If snch were the &ct, which seems impossible, the powder must
have been exceedingly weak. Large rockets are made of a log
of mahogany, or other tough wood, hollowed out, and well hooped
widi strong ratans or thongs of raw hide.

Iron ore is smelted in several districts, and forged into imple-
ments at all the principal places. But they cannot make steel,
and receive that article from England, by way of Bengal. Their
chief tool, and one used for all manner of purposes, from the
felling of a tree to the paring of a cucumber, is the dah. The
handle is like that of a cleaver, and the blade like a drawing-
knifo. It is also a prominent weapon, and, when made for this
purpose, is somewhat more long and slender.

Brass is compounded and wrought with more skill than is
shown in almost tmy other of their manufactures. A good deal
is made in sheets, and wrought into water-vases, drinking-vessels,
spittoons, Slc The latter are always of one form, viz. that of a
vase with a very vnde top. See the drawing, page 186.

In casting bells, Burmah transcends all the rest of India. They
are disproportionately thick, but of delightful tone. The raised
inscriptions and figures are as beautiful as on any bells I have
seen. They do not flare open at the mouth, like a trumpet ; but
are precisely the shape of old-fashioned globular wine-glasses, or
semi-spheroidal. Several in tlie empire are of enormous size.
That at Mengoon, near Ava, weighs, as the prime minister in-
formed me, eighty-eight thousand viss — more than three hun-
dred and thirty thousand pounds ! It seems almost incredible ;
but if any of my readers, interested in such matters, will make
a computation for themselves, they will find it true. The bell,
by actual measurement, is twenty inches thick, twenty feet high,
including the ear, and thirteen feet six inches in diameter.*
The weight was ascertained by the Burmans, before casting, and
its bulk in cubic inches proves them correct It is suspended a
few inches from the ground, and, like their other great bells,
is without a tongue. That at Rangoon is not much smaller. It

* A friend, distinguished as a civil engineer; computed the weight, from this
measurement, to exceed 600,000 pounds, supposing the bell-metal to consist
of three parts copper and one part tin.

18*

210

will be recollected that the largest bell in the United States does
not exceed five thousand pounds. The Great Tom, at Oxford, in
England, is seventeen thousand pounds, and the fiunous, but use-
less bell at Moscow, is four hundred forty-four thousand pound&

Gongs are made at or near Ava; but I could not see the pro-
cess. Kettles, ornaments, images, &C., are nicely cast at dw
capitaL

Two kinds of paper are made by Burmana One is a thm, f
blackened pasteboard, made of macerated cane, and used fiv *
vmting upon with a pencil of soap-stone. From this the writhug *
may be removed with a sponge, as firom a slate. Sometimes^ '
though rarely, it is made white, and written on with ink. llie
other is a thin, but very strong paper, rather fine, and used in
the manufacture of umbrellas. English and Chinese papers are
sold in the bazars. The umbrellas are fiamed of bamboo, and
covered with glazed paper, and ornamented inside with flos
silk, like a rose on a blanket They cost fix>m twenty-five to fiffy
cents apiece, and wiU last two or three seasons. I saw various
manufactories of them in the upper cities ; but the seaboard is
chiefly supplied firom China, by way of Penang.

Along the coast, salt is made to a considerable extent ; but solar
evaporation, so for as I could learn, is not resorted to. It is a
monopoly of government, and yields a considerable revenue.
The process is hasty and imperfect, and so conducted that httle
or nothing can be done but in the months of February, March,
and ApriL Each manu&cturer pays a tax of about forty ticals,
without reference to the extent of his works. The article, though
thus taxed, ia but half the price, or less, which it costs when
cheapest in Bengal, seldom averaging more than fifty cents per
bushel.

The manufacture of marble is almost confined, as has been
stated, to images of Gaudama. They are made principally at the
quarries near Sagaing, a few miles fi-om Ava. The export of
these idols is prohibited, but some may be obtained from the
Tenasserim provinces.

Glass is not made at all ; nor do the habits of the people require
it Good cordage, even to large cables, is made of coir, or coya,
the bark of the coco-nut tree. Fishing-nets and small cordage
are truly beautiful. Sandal-makers are numerous, and their work
handsome and durable; but boots and shoes, in our mode, they
cannot make. Foreigners, however, find no difficulty in getting
them made by Chinese, who live in ail the towns, and make
almost any thing, if the pattern be furnished.

311

CHAPTER IV.

Oovemment »- Orders of NobOity — Grades of Ck>mmuiiity —> M agistraej*—

Laws — Division of Property.

•

t The monarch is absolute. Custom and convenience require
[ lum to ask counsel of the nobles touching important matters, but
r be is not bound to adopt it Indeed, he often treats his courtly

(advisers with contempt, aud sometimes with violence — even
chaang them out of his presence with a drawn sword. On a
late occasion, for a very slight offence, he had forty of his highest
officers laid on their &ces in the public street, before the palace
wall, and kept for hours in a broiling sun, with a beam extended
across their bodiea He is, however, seldom allowed to know
much of passing events, and particularly of the delinquencies of
particular officers, who are ever ready to hush up accusations by
a bribe to their immediate superior. No office, title, or rauk,
except that of the king, is hereditary. Promotion is open to all
classes.

Next in rank to the royal family are the woon-gyees, (from
woon, governor^ and gyee,gTea^) or public ministers of state. Of
these there are commonly four, but sometimes five or six, forming
a court or council, which sits daily in the lot-dau. His majesty
is sometimes, though rarely, present at the deliberations. Royal
acts are issued, not in the king's name, but in tliat of this council.
Causes of every kind may be brought here for decision.

Below these are the woon-douks, (from woon, governor, and
douk, prop,) or assistant woons, who attend at the lot-dau, and
express their opinions. They have no right to vote, but may re-
cord their dissent. They cooperate in canning into execution
great matters of state policy, and are often exceedingly influential.

Of about the same grade, but rather inferior, are the a-twen-
woons, (from a-twen, inside, and woon, governor,) of whom there
are generally from four to six. These constitute the cabinet, or
privy council ; and have access to his majesty at all times. They
do not act publicly as king's officers, nor sign imperial docu-
ments, but are in daily session in a room near the palace. Their
influence with the king procures them great respect, and many
bribes.

There are six or eight government secretaries, called sa-re-
dau-gyee, {great government writers,) whose business is similar to

213 BUBIUH.

that of the state secretaries. It is not necessazy to describe m-
nutely the other grades of officers. They descend, in regular pro-
gression, down to the head-man of a hamlet; each exerdaiif
arbitrary sway over those next beneath.

The life of men in power is divided between idleness^ senflh
ality, intrigue, and oppression. To their superiors they caiiDOl
without danger avoid flattery, &wning, and deceit From in-
feriors they derive a maintenance by fraud, deceit, bribeiy, and
violence. General knowledge is beyond their reach, for tihe
books of the country do not contain it The libendity and intd-
ligence gained from intercourse with foreigners is wanting, ftr
this also they do not have. From first to lasl^ they are, with ftw
exceptions, harpies, who seek only their own advantage, and
neither love nor pity the people. The country labors under tltt
curse which Jehovah threatens to send upon a wicked peo[de—
^ Governors who should be like fire among the wood, and likfi i
torch of fire in a sheaf; who should devour all the people round
about, on the right hand and on the left."

Orders of nobility are marked by the tsa-lo-&y, or gilded
necklace. The particular grade is indicated by the number of
chains composing it, which are united at diflerent places Iff
bosses. Three strands of common chain-woik indicate the
lowest rank ; three, of more curious construction, the next above;
then come those of six, nine, and twelve ; which last is the high-
est for a subject Chief princes of the blood wear eighteen, and
the monarch himself twenty-four.

The community is, by common estimation, divided into ei^
classes — the royal family, great officers, priests, rich men, labor-
ers, slaves, lepers, and executioners,* and perhaps some otherB.
Even among these are diflerent degrees of respectability. None
of the classes constitute an hereditary caste, except lepers and
slaves of pagodas. The latter are the most respectable of all
outcasts. All, except slaves and outcasts, may aspire to the highest
offices, which are frequently ffiled by persons of low origin.

The legislative, executive, and judicial functions are not sepa^
rated, but a measure of power in each is enjoyed by every officer.
Hence arise innumerable and shameful abuses. Having no
salary, every government-man regards his district, or office, as

^ Executioners are reprieved felons, dead in law, and marked by a tattooed
circle on the cheek, and oflen by the name of their crime tattooed in legible
letters upon their breast. They are not allowed to sit doym in any man's bouse,
and all intimacy with them is forbidden.

eRADSS OF COMMUinTT. S18

DB field of gain ; and hesitates at no measures to make it profit-
^ aUe. Most of the rulers keep spies and retainers, who discover
^ who has money, and how it may be got Accusations of all sorts
are invented, and the accused has no way of escape, but by a pres-
! ent Real criminals may almost invariably elude justice by a
kibe, if it bear some proportion to the magnitude of the offence.
Gings of robbers frequently practise their trade by the connivance
of a ruler who shares their gains. One of the native Christians,
who had been in the employ of" a ruler before his conversion, as-
mred me, that often, on finding some one who had laid up a little
wealth, his master would employ some retainer, to place a few
goods under the intended victim's house, by night, in order to
bring against him the charge of theft. In the morning, it would
be loudly proclaimed that this retainer of the great man had been
robbed. A general search would ensue, and the goods being
soon detected under the victim's house, the evidence would be
declared complete. The wretched man, whose only &ult was
thrift and saving, would be condenmed to some severe punish-
ment, and escape only by paying a fine as great as it was sup-
posed he was able to bear.

It would require greater space than can here be spared, to give
any correct conception of the general misrule of men in power.
We give one other instance. The late war having introduced
into Rangoon and vicinity the Bengal coins, the woon-gyee en-
gaged largely in making four-anna pieces, whicli were really
worth but two. They were soon well known, and only passed
for their real value. The incensed great man sent the herald
about the city, proclaiming that whoever objected to take them at
their nominal value, should suffer a specified fine and imprison-
ment Business was for a while completely checked, and at
length, after making some severe examples, he was obliged to
let the people return to weighing their money, as before.

An absolute monarch being, in fact, proprietor both of his do-
mains and his people, he cannot but see that the number of his
subjects, and their prosperity, form his true greatness and honor.
Hence, though he may be a bad man, prudence and policy dic-
tate a rule which shall minister to the general good. It seems
ever to have been thus in Burmah. The king enacts salutary
laws, and views his people with kindness ; but sycophants and
intriguers pervert his plans, and frustrate his intentions. Around
Ava, his personal knowledge, and accessibleness to petition
through many avenues, check the movements of unprincipled
nobles, and spread comparative peace and security. Hence the

{

814

superior popaloiii9e« of dMt ikUgr. Tim, tiliiiiity
of the syatein of pfOiniiBial adnaiklndQtt 1i
<<CFawfuid'g EmbMqr to tfae Court of Aya|i" ttnt
having had, by ooiwil iMiitii^i i ntBi iw yf o r wtt
a better (^qportonily tiiaiir Bigraelf of aaofftidBb^
allow myaelf to direH OD tfak tofpSc^ aagiU^gAA
portuni^of jiidgiiigof thaflliCe of liw eqmliy and
cmUzalioiL

"ThecouiitiykdifidedklD |HHn f me a a of vny^imoqpMli'
these into toiRiMihqMiy tfae townriupit ia^
into idllafeo and hamleti^ of wfaidb liw niaAoriiii
The wQgd Myo» [Myq,} wfaiiih liiarrily vmnm- > ftotifiad
q^edbocfetoaproviiioeaiida tMiodbip^ flr ibt9ii.afa
to distinguidi tharn^ Vbe pooniMie 1% ia fiMl^
towDshipe^ andeaokportieiilar one dhofoo tenamo fnmWi
principal towM wiiUb; ita hmm^vtj, hrimg the Mniaooa of "dl
govemoiv 'She dialriet oa auhdiiiflion of the to mia i up i in Wt
Riannei^tBlnaitaBaaMftontiiaptiocTalvilifeiriliite Mi
ammgement a uu a aiah Bt inacimhiaa tlwt wfaiolL ptfiihi in €liM|
although much ruder.' Hie govemmr of a pnonrinoi^.k odM
Myo-wun^aadia moMkindL-tiio omiaa otaqga of tha pvo^aflib
civil, judkaalk-ociifitaqt; and iaoak TbeM7a»iwaB oodbm^a*
ercisea the power of life and death ; liafeincialeaa8%anifpMf
lies froni his aathoriQrta the chief eoaneili ok the eapitaL Mlito
public businefls of tfae p:orinoe is iranaactad in an open h4
called a Rung, with the epidiet ^hau, or rograL

<<The government of ^tha townships is intrusted lo an dfieaii
named a Myo-tho-gyL These words, eoDunoalgr pronounced I9
us, and by the Mohammedans, Myo-su-gi, may bo hilmpiirf
'chief of the township;^ fi>r the word 'thu' maaaa Aeo^w
head-man: the others have been explained^ The districts I*'
villages are administerad by their own chieA^ named Tfaitgyty
in the latter instance the word'nia,' pronooneed ^jua^^M wStgh
or harnddf being pn^sdd, Tfanon srn all rrnrnfiiriTfiljnnfafadia^i
to each other.

<<No public officor under the Burmese gotrerament everfS*
ceives any fijoed money-salary. The principal offieera are la*
vearded by ass^nments of land, or^ more correctly, fay an aariga*
ment of the labor and industry of a ^vea portion 1^ the inhsl^
itants ; and the inferior ones by fees, perqinsites, and i i i af uli g
emoluments, as will be afterwards explained. Extortion and
bribery are common ta die whole ciass.

« The execuliwa and jndicial fcnationa iPa so BMioli bloB«U in

MAeiSTRACT. 815

the Burmese form of administration, that the establishments pe-
GttUarly belonging to the latter are not very numerous At the
capital there is a judicial officer of high mnk, called the Ta-ra-
ma-thu-gyi ; the principal administration of justice, at the capital,
it least, appears in former times to have been conducted by this
officer^ but he seems now to have been deprived of the greater
|iirt of it by the encroachments of the two executive councils.
The inducements to this, of course, were the profits and influence
which the members of these bodies derived Grom the administra-
tion of justice. The three tovms, with their districts, composing
tlie capital, have each their Myo-wun, or governor, and these are
assisted in the municipal administration of their respective juris-
dictions by officers named Myo-char^ commonly pronounced
tfyo-say^ meaning 'town scribe.' They are in reality, however,
a sort of head constables, and well known as such to all strangers,
as the busy, corrupt, and mischievous agents of the local authori-
ties. The palace, fi'om its peculiar importance in Burman esti-
mation, has its own distinct governors, no less than four in num-
ber, one to each gate ; their name, or title, is Wen-m'hu ; they
have the reputation of having under their authority each a thou-
sand men. In the municipal or provincial courts, there is an offi-
cer called the SitKai, who is a kind of sheriff or principal con-
servator of the peace, and, in imitation of the councils at the
capital, an officer named Na-kan-d'hau, who discharges the office
of public informer. Most of the Burmau officers in the prov-
inces, down to the Rua-thu-gyi, or chief of a village, have asses-
sors of their own nomination, called Kuiig, who take the drudgery
oft' the hands of their cliiefs, leaving the decision to the latter. A
Myo, or town, it should be observed, is divided into wards, or
Ayats, each of which is under the direction of an inferior police-
officer, called the Ayat-gaong. The most intelligent and active
officers connected with the administration of justice, are the Slie-
nes, or pleaders. These persons are described as beuig tolerably
well acquainted with the law and its forms, and are occasionally
useful and industrious. To each court and public officer there
are attached a competent number of Na-lains, or messengers;
and annexed to the prmcipal courts is always to be found the
T'haong-m'hu, or executioner, with his band of branded ruffians.
" The Myo-thu-gyis and Rua-tliu-gyis, or chiefs of townships,
districts, and villages, exercise a limited judicial authority within
their respective jurisdictions, and are answerable for the conser-
vation of the peace. Appeals, in most mstances, lie from their
autliority to that of the provincial officers. In civil cases, these

inferior officers tiy all causes subject to mppetl ; but in
ones, their authority is limited to inflicting a few strokes of «i
tan, and they can neither imprison nor fetter. In all
any aggravation, it is their duty to transmit the ofifender to M
IThaong-m'hu, sheriff or executioner of the provincia] t/m^\
The authority of the chief of the township was^ of course,
what more extended than that of the district or Tillage, and !•{
rested with him to hear and decide upon causes where the partai
bdonged to different districts or Tillages. When the chirftf
towns or villages felled to produce offenders under accusatki^
they were made to answer the accusation in their own persooi il
the provincial courts."

The written code, civil and penal, though severe, is, on fei
whole, vrise and good ; but is little better than a dead letter, ft
is principally derived firom the Institutes of Menu. This wo4
of great celebrity among the Hindus, v^as translated into En^iah
by the late Sir William Jones. It seems to have been received
by the Burmans firom Arracan, but at what period is not certaiiii
Their translation is called Dam-OrihaL "Every monarch adds to
it, or alters, as may please him ; and under some reigns it bean
little resemblance to the original. For all practical purposes it ifl
almost a nullity, being never produced or pleaded firom in courts.
Rulers, firom highest to lowest, decide causes according to their
own judgment, or, more fi^quently, according to their interest
As a great part of their income is derived firom lawsuits, they
generally encourage litigation. They receive bribes unreserved-
ly, in open court, and do not hesitate to accept the gifts of both
parties. Their oppressions have scarcely any restraint but the
fear of ruining their own interest by carrying matters too far. As
to seeking the good of their country, or the promotion of justice,
there appears to be no such thing thought of, except perhaps by
the king and a few of those inuqediately about him.

The form of a judicial oath deserves insertion, as a curiosity.
It is as follows: — **I will speak the tnith. If I speak not the
truth, may it be through the influence of tlie laws of demerit, viz.
passion, anger, folly, pride, false opinion, immodesty, hard-heart-
edness, and skepticism ; so that when I and my relations are on
land, land animals, as tigers, elephants, buflaloes, poisonous ser-
pents, scorpions, &c., shall seize, crush, and bite us, so that we
shall certainly die. Let the calamities occasioned by fire, water,
rulers, thieves, and enemies, oppress and destroy us, till we perish
and come to utter destruction. Let us be subject to all the ca-
lamities that are within the body, and all that are vrithout the

isJLwn. 217

pho^. May we be seized with madness, dumbness, blindness,
f^ifeafiiess, leprosy, and hydrophobia. May we be struck with
i fciiiderboltB and lightning, and come to sudden death. In the
\ WidBt of not speaking truth, may I be taken with vomiting clotted
^ fefaMsk blood, and suddenly die before the assembled people^.
t When I am going by water, may the aquatic genii assault me,
I tibe boat be upset, and the property lost; and may alligators,
\ porpoises, sharks, or other sea-monsters, seize and crush me to
: death ; and when I change worJds, may 1 not arrive among men
or nats, but suffer unmixed punishment and regret, in the ut-
most wretchedness, among the four states of punishment, Hell^.
Pnta, Beasts, and Athurakai.

**1fl speak truth, may I and my relations, through the influence
of the ten laws of merit, and on account of the efficacy of truth,
be Creed firom all calamities within and without the body ; and
may evils which have not yet come, be warded &r away. May
the ten calamities and the five enemies also be kept &r away..
May the thunderbolts and lightning, the genii of waters, and dl.
sea-animals, love me, that I may be safe from them. May my
prosperity increase like the rising sun and the waxing moon ;
and may the seven possessions, the seven laws, the seven merits
of the virtuous, be permanent in my person ; and when I change
worlds, may I not go to the four states of punishment, but attain
the happiness of men and nats, and realize merit, reward, and.
annihilation." A Burman seldom ventures to take the oath, not
only from his terror of its imprecations, but from the expense.
Captain Alves * states the following to be the charges in a cer-
tain case — " Administration of the oath, ten ticals ; messenger
for holding the book over the head, one tical; other messengers,
two ticals ; recorders, two ticals ; pickled tea used in the cere-
mony, half a tical."

Trial by ordeal is very seldom used, but is not wholly unknown.
It is practised in vai'ious ways. Sometimes the parties are made
to walk into the water, and whichever can hold out longest under
the surface, gains the cause. Sometimes it is by trying which
can hold the finger longest in hot water or melted lead. A very
common mode of punishment is the stocks, used also as a torture
to extract confessions or bribes. The instrument resembles the
one which is well known in Europe, only that it is so constructed
as to raise the feet from the ground, if desired. The accused is
thus raised sometimes till his shoulders or head barely touch the

* Report on Bassein.
VOL. 1. 19

218 BUBMAH.

floor. In this painful position, he is glad to pay any demandi m
order to be lowered again. Burman prisons are so insecore m tt
make it necessary to resort generally to the stocks or hxm fettm

The following notices of Burman laws are deemed importuii;
as throwing light on the character of the people. The wife md
children of an absconding debtor are responsible for his deblft^
but a woman is not required to pay debts contracted by her hath
band during a former marriage. If a debtor wish to proseeoto
his creditor for vexatious endeavors to get his pay, his cause can-
not be heard by the judge till the debt is first paid. Where ser-
eral persons are securities for a debt, each security is lesponnUe
for the whole amount, so that the first one the creditor can lay
hold of must liquidate the debt The property of insohentB
must be divided equally, without any preference of crediton.
Property proved to be lost in any town, must be made good by a
tax on the inhabitants, if the thief be not discovered. A man
finding lost silver or gold receives, on restoring, one sixth; if
other property, one third. The eldest son inherits all the annfly
apparel, bed, and jewels, of his father; the remainder of the
property is divided equally into four parts, of which the widow
takes three, and the other children one between theuL If a filths
give one of his sons a sum of money for the purposes of trade,
that son returns the capital, without interest, at the death of the
fiither, to be divided with the rest of the inheritance ; but the gains
are his own. Before a man's property can be divided, the widow
must pay all his debts, and give a portion in alms.

The common punishments are, for minor ofiences, imprison-
ment, labor in. chains, the stock, and fines. Then follow flogging,
branding, maiming, slavery to pagodas, and death.

Thefl is punished by putting the oflender in the stocks, where
he stays till his friends can raise money enough to appease the
great man, beside making restitution. For repeated ofifences,
imprisonment and fetters are added ; and the incorrigible, when
no longer able to pay fines, are tattooed with a circle on the cheek,
or the name of the oflence on their breast Persons thus marked
are deprived of all civil rights, that is, become dead in law, and
are consigned to the class of executioners.

Capital punishment seldom occurs, and almost exclusively for
murder and treason. It is inflicted by beheading, drowning, or
crucifixion. The number of executions in the viceroyship of
Rangoon is about twenty in a year. KiUing a person of the la-
boring class, in the heat of passion, is punished by a fine of ten
slaves, and proportionally up to seventy or one hundred slaves,

uwa. ^8

IbfB person of higher rank. If a man insults another gnevoiul;,
ba niUiBt, if able, pay a proper Sue ; but if verj' poor, he is lo be
kd through the town with his lace smeared with eharcooJ. A
Hbel id puniabed by inflicting the earns peoalty which would faavo
been incurred by the fault uxyusily charged upon auothor. But
if the truth of the charge be proved, it is not a libel. Whoever
refiisea to appear before the judge, loaea bia cause.

A husliiuid may administer corporal punislmjent to hia wilSi
far encoura^ng too great intimacy with other men, neglect of
domestic duties, quarrel aomeness, gadding about, meddling too
niich ill the concerns of neighbors, or extravagance. Ho is first
required, however, to admonish ber repeatedly in the presence
of witnesses. If she still remain incorrigible after a reasonuble
aumber of floggings, he may divorce her.

If a man nccideulally set Sre to a neiglibor's house, ho is Aued
one third the value of bis body ; * but if ho was drunk, or iu ■
riolent passion at die time, he must pay the full value of his body.
A woman whose husband has gone as a soldier, taay marry again
if she bear not from him for ms years : if he went on buHinese^
eeven years are required, and it' on a religious object, ton. If ■
woman buy a man and marry him, and afterward divorce hiin,
he is no longer a slave. If a &ther sell his t^hild, and attenvarda
die possessed of property, so much of it as is equal to the price
tor which the chill was eold must be paid to that child, in addi-
tion to his share of the inheritance. A slave scut to war and
captured, is free if he escape and return. If a oiaatcr violently
beat his slave, his bond debt is reduced one tliird. If death eusue,
the parents of the slave may claim tmce the value of bis body ;
and if there be no parents, that sum ia paid to the judge. If a
slave abscond from a master known to be cruel, there is no pen-
alty for the person who receives and harbors him. If the master
has not been cruel, he may exact full value of the slave's ser-
TJcea for the time. If a man permit his nmaway slave to be
maintained by another during a time of scarcity, he cannot after*
ward claim him. A master may not seize his runaway in another
village, but must notify the head-man, who shall deliver him up.
If a stranger harbor a runaway, knowing him to be such, he is
punishable as a thief; but if he be a near relation, there is no
pma]^.

If a man die insolvent, and charitable people choose to de&ty
the expenses of a regular limeral, they are not cbargeaUe witb

• Thi» wfll generally pay for Ihe house of a commoa peraon.

BUBIUH.

any of his debts ; but if they be particukr friendsy or dlstaiit nil*
lions, they must pay one quarter of his debts ; and if near nlir
lions, one half The head-man of a village or district is hddlt»
sponsible for all robberies committed in his jurisdiction, and mMk
make good the loss, with heavy fines, or produce the o^ndenL

Changing a landmark is punished by a heavy fine. Debk
contracted by betting may be recovered fit)m the loser, but Bflt
from his fen^y or heirs. A man hurt in wrestling, or other aih*
letic games, cannot recover damages ; but if he be killed, the ift-
jurer must pay the price of his body. A woman or a child
charging a man with bodily injury, may adduce, as evidenflt^
marks of violence on their persons. But if a man charge a
woman or a child in the same manner, such marks are not re-
ceived as proo^ but witnesses must be adduced. An empty Te-
hide must give place, on the road, to one that is loaded, and if
loaded men meet, he who has the sun on his back must give
way.

The value of the bodies of men and animals is fixed. Thus a
new-born male child is four ticals, a female three, a boy ten, a
girl seven, a young man thirty, a young woman thirty-five. Of
rich persons twice these prices are exacted; and of principal
oficers still larger sums, rapidly increasing in proportion to
rank.

In the provinces held by the East India Company, a salutary
change has taken place in the administration of justice, though it
is still susceptible of great improvement The criminal code is
nearly like that of Bengal, and the civil is founded on Burman
practice, the Dam-a-that, and the Yesa-that or Raja-that, which
last is a collection of decisions and laws made by successive
kings. A qualified Burman is connected witii every cutchery,
who explains provincial customs for the information of the
magistrate. The only tax on justice is a charge of ten per cent
on the amount of a suit, paid by the plaintiff, but which is not ex-
acted of the very poor. One rupee is paid for a summons, and
half a rupee for each subpoena to witnesses ; but these also are
remitted to the indigent Professional pleaders are not allowed,
but each party manages his own cause, or gets a fi*iend to do it
for hina. The trial by jury has been partly introduced, and de-
lights the natives. They deem the office of juryman honorable,
and will accept no pay for their services. Changes also have
been made in the mode of taxation, which tend to alleviate the
condition of the people, though the entire amount assessed is
about as before.

231

Perhaps no country could have n betler sjBlem for die division
of property. The land is all regarded ae belonging lo the crown j
hut any one may occupy as much as he pleases, and in any placo
not already held by anoliier. He has only to enclose atid cultl'
rate it, and it is his. If ihe boundary be not maintained, or the
enclosed space be for Beveral successive years unimproved, it re-
Tsrts to the Wng, aud may be taken up by any other. Of course
thero are no very large landholders ; and it is worth no mau'i
while lo bold large luiimproved estates.

This BjHtem does not in any degree prevent the regular inher-
itance, sale, or renting of estates; which proceed just as with ita.
The king himself uilcn purchuses lauds. Mortgages, leases, &c.,
tre also taken ; but a man who loitns money on mortgage has the
antire use andineome of the land or house, instead of a fixed rate
of interest, and if not paid in three yeBrs, the proper^ is forfeited
M the louder, be it what it may.
19"

223

CHAPTER V.

Revenue — Commerce — Currency — Army — fiayy — Slavery— DiinaoB
of Time — Weights and Measures — Language — Literature — ^ D^;iee of
Civilization.

The revenue of the crown is derived from a tenth of all impu-
tations j&om abroad, tonnage, export duties, a stated tax on every
family, and an excise on salt, fisheries, fi-uit-trees, and petroleum.
Except the tax on families, which is generally required in specie,
these are taken in kind. Whatever the government is obliged to
purchase, is generally paid for in articles so obtained. A small
part is exchanged for the precious metals. No tax is levied on
lands or personal property. Unmarried men are not taxed, except
in bearing their proportion of the assessment on families. The
royal treasury is further replenished by fines, escheats, confisca-
tions, presents, the produce of crovni lands, and ivory, all of which
belongs to the king.

Arbitrary assessments are made from time to time on particular
provinces, districts, cities, or villages, from which the people have
no escape. The royal order for a certain amount is transmitted
' to the local chie^ who proportions at his pleasure the part each
family shall pay, and takes care always to levy a larger sum than
he is required to transmit If a few men or boats are required,
he is almost sure to call on those whom he knows will pay to be
excused ; and thus makes it an opportimity for taxing to his own
benefit The same is done when artificers or soldiers are re-
quired. Thus the general government is really poor, while the
people are oppressed. It of course often happens that individuals
assessed for tiieir proportion of these multifarious exactions plead
poverty. In such cases, the stocks or the ratan soon extract
consent, and often compel persons to sell their little property, or
even their children, to satisfy the demand.

All tiie worst features of this horrible system are seen in the
case of the Karens, Toungthoos, Zebains, and other tribes noiixed
among the Burmans, and treated as inferiors and vassals. These
poor creatures are taxed about fifteen ticals per fiimily per annum,
besides being subject to the exactions above named.
Princes, governors, and otiier principal officers, are allowed to

RfiTXimiS — COMMS&CX. 2S3

coflect, ibr their own benefit, the taxes firom specified images or
districts, and generally exercise an unbridled spirit of extortion.
Lower chiefi have the costs of litigation, &c for their support,
to which they add the profits of shameless bribery. The meanest
subordinates contrive to make their posts lucrative ; and even the
keeper of a city gate expects occasional fees for allowing persons
to pass through with their common burdens.

Of course, the welfare of every little province depends greatly
on its local ruler. The only remedy, when exactions become in-
tolerable, is to remove into a district more equitably governed.
Such a course is necessarily attended with loss and inconve-
nience ; and sooner than resort to it, the people endure much and
long. It is, however, by no means uncommon for them to seek
this relief. As the grants of district revenues are made by the
fiat of the king, and revoked at his pleasure, no great man is sure
of continued wealth. The loss of favor at court is attended with
the immediate loss of his estates. All the local agents and ofi-
ccrs being dependent on their feudal lord, they, too, hold an
uncertain tenure. Thus, fi*om highest to lowest, there is no en-
couragement to attempt the improvement of land or people. In
all its ramifications, the government is a system of covetousness.

Among the possessions of the king, we must not omit to notice
his elephants. He is regarded as owning all in the kingdom, and
has generally fi*om one to two thousand which have been caught
and tamed. The white elephant, of which there is now but one,
is estimated beyond all price. He is treated like a prince of the
blood, and has a suite composed of some of the most prominent
officers in the court Indeed, the vulgar actually pay him divine
honors, though this is ridiculed by the intelligent.

Burmah has considerable foreign commerce, but wholly carried
on in foreign bottoms. The natives, however, perform coasting
voyages, which t?iey sometimes extend to Mergui aud Chittagong,
and, in rare cases, to Calcutta, Madras, and Penang.

The limited extent of sea-coast, now left to Burmah, furnishes
but two good harbors, namely, Rangoon and Basse in. These are
both excellent ; but the latter has very little trade, and foreign
vessels never go there.

The harbors in the British possessions are hiferior to these.
Mergui is very safe and easy of access, but veiy small. Amherst
is middling, but approachable only by a narrow channel, which
extends across the tide. Ships of three hundred tons or more

8M BUEM4B*

maj with oautkyQ go up to M aulmoiiiy the channel bemg nil
biioyed, and pilots always to be had, at Amherst.

liie number of clearanoes of square-rigged vessels firoiu ^
port of Rangoon amounts to about a hundred annually.

The exports are teak^wood, cotton, ivory, wax, cutch, and slick
laCy and in small quantities, lead, copper, arsenic, tin, edible IMi
nests, indigo, amber, tobacco, honey, tamarinds, gnapee, geipf^
sharks' fins, orpiment, sapan-wood, and sea-slugs. The ninti
last-named articles are of such limited amount as scarcely to ds-
serve notice. By &r the most important item is teak, whidi
is chiefly sent to Calcutta and Madras. The value of this articte
alone amoimted, in former years, to £200,000 per ftninim, ]t ]g
now not more than a fifth part of that quantity. About two millkm
pounds of raw cotton is sent to Dacca, where it is used in the
manufiicture of the fine muslins for which that place has been so
celebrated. The Burman collector informed a merchant at Avs,
that about thirty million pounds are sent up the Irrawaddy, annual-
ly, to China ; but Colonel Bumey estimates it at about four millions.
Nearly four millions per annum are sent to Arracan. None is
exported in the seed. The sea-slug is derived fi*om the coasts
of MerguL It is commonly called Biche de mar. It is a lai^
marine worm, somewhat resembling a leech, which, when prop-
erly cured, is regarded as a great luxury by the Chinese. The
mode of curing is to boil them in salt water, and then dry, or
perhaps smoke them. There are three principal kinds — black,
red, and white* The white sell at ten to twelve dollars per picul,
(one hundred thirty-tiiree pounds,) the red for twenty-five dollars,
and the black for fifty dollars. Of each of these there are various
sizes. Some, when dried, are seven or eight inches long, and one
and a half in diameter ; others are not larger than a man's finger.
The sharks' fins have a skin which is valued for polishing substances
in the manner of fine sand-paper. Their chief value is for the
tendons, which are an article of food with the Chinese. They
are drawn out and dried, resembling id this state silver wire, and
are used in soup, as the Italians use vermicelli Gnapee is made
firom prawns, shrimps, or any cheap fish, salted and pounded
into a consistent mass. It is frequently allowed to become par^
tially putrefied in the process. It is sometimes called in com-
merce Balachong,

An active trade is carried on with China, chiefly by way of
Yunnan. Small caravans begin to arrive at Ava from that prov-
ince, in December. About the first of February, the great carar

coimsRcx. 335

Iran arrives, and afterward smaller ones, til] the first of March.
The smaller consist of fifty, a hundred, or two hundred men,
and the great one of about a thousand. Each man has several
ponies, or mules, sometimes fifteen or twenty, who carry, in pan-
niers, firom one hundred to two hundred pounds. Being twenty-
five days on the road, the beasts are in low condition. They are
guided by large, black, shaggy dogs, some of which go before, and
others fetch up stragglers. These are sometimes sold at Ava at
fiom twenty to thirty ticals ; but they generally pine away in the
hot season, and die.

The Chinese mart, where these caravans stop, is atMadah,
thirteen miles north of Umerapoora ; inhabited chiefly by Cas-
sayers. Extensive enclosures are there, in which the fair is opened,
while the cattle are sent to graze. They bring raw and floss silk,
(which the Burmans weave,) satins, velvets, crape, cordage, yellow
Bulphuret of arsenic, tea, spirits, honey, paper, gold lea( hams,
shallow iron pans, sweetmeats, dried fiiiits, walnuts, chestnuts,
and apples. They take back chiefly raw cotton, Bengal opium,
British goods, gems, amber, ivory, betel-nuts, sharks' fins, and birds'
nests. Many of these merchants avail themselves of the Irra-
waddy River, for a considerable distance above Ava. Crawfurd
estimates this interior trade with China to amount to nearly two
millions of dollars per annum.

There are several caravans of Shyans, who come annually to
the city of Ava, where a large suburb is appropriated. They
come and go in troops of fifty or one hundred, from December to
March, and amount in the whole to about a thousand. Their
goods are brought on bullocks, which are in fine order, and often
on their own backs. They bring a few horses, but only for sale,
and they are not loaded. Theu* goods are stick-lac, umbrellas,
black jackets, cotton cloth of various sorts and colors, lackered
boxes, (which are far superior to those of Burman manufacture,)
ground-nuts, sugar, lead, &c. They take back salt, gnapee, dried
fish, and betel-nuts.

Monay is a great mart of internal trade, aud sends annually to
Maulmain a trading caravan, and many cattle for the supply of
the British troops. The journey occupies from twenty-five to
thirty days. The amount of the trade is about seventy-five thou-
sand rupees per anniun.

Considerable inland trade is carried on from one part of the
kingdom to another, by boats and wagons.

The lower provinces send up the country salt, rice, dried
fish, gnapee, and foreign maiuifactuies ; receiving in return pe-

troleum, sahpetie) paper, piece goods, nigar, temaiind^ lof
various other artic1e&

In Pegu, a region scarcely equalled in ftcilities fi>r inland nafr
gation, trade is carried on almost wholly by boats, and few rodtf
exist ; mere paths connect the towns and villages. In the vapg9
provinces, which are hilly, and have few boatable streams, go<4
roads are maintained, and merchants transmit their goods fnk
town to town, in wagons drawn by oxen.

The trading vessels, on the Irrawaddy, are all constructed oi i
the same plan, except those built by or fer foreigners. Th^ \
are long, flat, and narrow ; the larger ones being provided with r~
outriggers to prevent their oversetting. Oars and setting-poki ^
are almost entirely depended upon to propel them, and traddiig *
is often resorted to ; but square sails are spread, when the wind is '
fidr and the water high. Those of the larger sort have (nm
mast, and a yard of great length, on which are suspended ai *
many sails as the case requires, one being slightly attached to '
the other. A specimen of these is given in the picture of Sa-
gaing. Smaller boats have the sail stretched between two bam-
boo masts festened to the sides near the bow. Of these, a good
idea may be obtained from the cut on page 85. These sails, in
very small boats, often consist of the pessos of the boatmen.

The wagons and carts are superior in construction to tibose
of Bengal, and some other parts of India. The wheel consists
of one strong piece of wood, the length of the diameter, and
about two feet vnde, through which the axle passes, and the
remainder of the rim is made of fellahs. See picture on
page 96*

When used for merchandise, they are well covered with bam-
boo mats, over which a painted cloth is often spread. A travel-
ling team consists of four or six bullocks, and proceeds about
15 miles a day ; a spare bullock or two following, in case of any
becoming sick or lame. Merchants generally go in companies,
and at night draw up the wagons in a circle, to secure them and
their cattle from wild beasts. Within this circle the drivers
and their passengers light their fires, dress their food, attend
their cattle, tell their romances, and pass the night

Not the slightest restriction is laid on merchants or traders
from any nation. On the contrary, they are invited and en-
couraged; and generally accumulate property. They may go
and come, or settle, in any part of the kingdom.

In the Tenasserim and Arracan provinces, no duties are levied
on any articles from any country ; and probably will not be, fer

CURBKlfCT.

mmy yean. The policy is to open markets for EDglish manu-
fteoires ; and this is gradually being done, not only in the prov-
inces under their sway, but in adjacent districts, especially the
SliTaii country round Monay.

- The oommerce ci particular cities and towns, such as Ran-
Maulmain, &c^ is more fiilly stated in my accounts of those

The country has no coinage. Silver and lead pass in frag-
ments of all nzes, and the amount of every transaction is regu-
larly weighed out ; as was done by the ancients. Gen. zziii. 16.
Ezra viiL 25. It is cast by the assayers, in thin round cakes,
weighing two or three ticals, but is cut up with mallet and chisel,
to suit each sale. The price of a thing, therefore, is always stated
in weight, just as if we should say, in answer to a question of price,
** an ounce," or *<a dnun." When an appearance like crystal-
lization, is upon the centre of the cake, it is known to be of a
certain degree of alloy, and is called ^flowered silver." Of
this kind, which is called Huet-netj the tical is worth fifteen per cent
more than the Sicca rupee. Th^ Dyng has the flowered ap-
pearance over ail the cake, in larger and longer crystals ; and is
cast into cakes weighing about twenty ticals ; but varies exceed-
ingly in fineness, being of all qualities, from Huet-nee to ten
I per cent, purer. It is assumed to be five per cent purer.

An inferior kind of silver, even to twenty-five per cent alloy,
circulates freely, for smaUer barter. The people, however, are
not deceived in its quality, for the degree of purity is detected
by them with great readiness, chiefly by the appearance left on
the cake at cooling.

Silver, in passing from hand to hand, becomes more and more
alloyed, so that, when a man is asked the price of a thing, he says,
" Let me see your money ? " He then regulates his charge by
the quality of the silver, and a piece is choj)ped oft' to meet the
bill ; change, if any, being weighed in lead.

Gold is scarcely used as a circulating medium, being absorbed
in gilding sacred edifices, or in jewels. By Burnian estimate,
gold is eighteen times the value of silver. It often rises to
twenty or more, when the peoj)le ai*e compelled to obtain it at
any price, to pay their tax toward the gilding of some pagoda.

Small payments arc made in lead. Each vender in the bazar
has a basket full of this lead. Its general reference to silver
is about five hundred to one. It varies exceedingly, however,
in its proportion ; sometimes fifteen viss of lead is given for a

ticaly and sometiiiies only seven or eight, at Ava. In ^atant parti
of the country, where the aiiver is more alloyed^ three or te
yias is given for a ticaL

The late king, Menderagyee, attempted to introduoe hmI
silver coin, which he made with a mint establiahmeiit importii
firom England. But he required his ticals to pass for nzty pv
cent above their real worth, and the copper for nearly three tioMi
its worth. The consequence was a universal stagnatioii of
business ; and, after urging his law so fiur as to execute some flr
contumacy, he was at length obliged to let silver and lead pafl
by weight, according to their real worth, as before. The peopb
are not anxious for coin. They cannot trust their rulers ; they
love higgling in bargains ; they make a profit on their money}
as well as goods, by increasing its alloy ; and a numerous cksi
of assayers, or brokers, called Ptoorzahs, (by foreigners, Poy-znm
subsist by melting up silver, to improve or deteriorate it as they
are desired. This they do before the owner's foce, and hare
only the crucible and scorise for their trouble.

At Rangoon, the Madras rupee circulates generally for a tics! ;
and along the rivers up to Pi^pme, it is known, and vnll be re-
ceived. But at the capital, and throughout the interior, it is
weighed, and deemed an inferior silver. In Arracan and the Te-
nasserim provinces, rupees, pice, and pie, now circulate as in
Bengal, and money is scarcely ever weighed.

The common rate of interest, when collateral security is de-
posited, is two or three per cent a month ; when there is no secu-
rity, four or five per cent If the interest become equal to the prin-
cipal, the debt is cancelled. Creditors, therefore, exact new notes
from their debtors every few months, if the interest be not paid.

There is no standing army, though a few men are hired by
the month, in some principal places, to bear arms, as a sort of
guard. There is no military class in Burmah, probably owing
to the religious prohibition of taking life. It is indeed never dif-
ficult to raise an army, as each petty ruler is obliged to bring
forth his men by conscription ; but when raised, it is a mere
rabble, destitute both of the spirit and the officers requisite to
constitute a respectable force. They march under the same
men who rule them in private life, and can seldom have the
slightest inducement to leave their homes. There is no cause
of exemption from military duty, but bodily incapacity; and
every man whose immediate ruler selects him, must march. In
general, he receives neither pay nor rations, but shares the plun-

■■»'• But in the lale w&r, the government paid wages and p
hi^e bounty. The march of ao army through their own coi
try ia marked with nearly the isame extortions aa iit a conquered
province. Cases of desertion or disobedience ore severely pirn-
iahed ia the persona of the soldier'a family or relalious ; who^
for his tnisconduct, are spoiled of then- goods, sold, or even ]
to death. Of late years, muskets havo been imported in a
^derable quantities, and some cannon. The former are of ibrnf
poorest quality, and the latter lie about for the moat part witb~
out carriages, and are of little cimsequencc.

Burman eoidiers are crafty, hardy, and courageous. Though^
in the late war, cannon and congreve rockets robbed tliem of
much of their established character for valor, yet, on all occas'oD^,
they behaved with a bravery which British troops have seldanL
met in the £asL Discarding the turban in the hour of battla,,
they rush rapidly on, with dishevelled hair, and fierce gesticula-
tions ; and whatever personal courage, without proper arms, a
do, they geuenUly accomplish.

There can scarcely be said to be any navy, as it consistB onljr
of long canoes, wholly unfit for sea. These are rowed andr '
fought by the same men. They generally contain forty or fifty
loen, who ait two on a seal, using short oarc, and having Ibei^
dah beside them. A small representation of one of these i '
given in the engraTing of Sagaing. As a river poUce, they an
stl-sufficient. Many of these are perfectly gilded, within and.
iTiibnut, and even the oars. Some of tbem are intended to con-
vey the king and royal family, and have handsome canopies,,
built in the centre or bow, for that purpose.

Slavery exists throughout the kingdom and its dependencieo,
and of course in the provinces lately ceded to the British. It is
produced both by debt end capture. Around Ava, most of the
slaves are prisoners of war, and their descendants. In other
l&ceB tliey are chiefly bond-debiors. A few are annually intr<»-
duced through a slave trade iiabitually carried on along the fron-
tiers. I cannot learn that Burmans themselves engage in thia
liiiffic, but they do not hesitate to purchase. Muniporions and
Airacanese are brought into Ava, especiaKy on tfie Siam AoOr-
tiw, where they ore often caught and earned across the ill-de-
fined boundary. The entire number of persons brought into
faantUge by this slare bvde is proportionably small. Debtw
s in every part of the country. The kin^

230 BU&BIAE.

brother told me he estimated their proportion to the real of tke
population as one to seven or eight Tliis might be true at An,
but I think it much more than the general average. PersooB
borrowing money, mortgage themselves when unable to giveotber
security, and become servants to the lender, till the money is paid
The sum borrowed is sometimes very small, perhaps only a &9
rupees ; but this makes no difierence in the condition, or in the
services required.

In Burmah Proper there is no remuneration towards liquidadng
the debt ; so that the person contuiues in bondage for life, ezcqit
the money can somehow be obtained. In the provinces ceded to
Britain, it is provided by law, that the debt shall diminish at the
rate of four pice (about three cents) per day, by which process
freedom is ultimately obtained. The master has power to in-
flict corporeal and other punishments on bond-servants as on
other slaves, but not to the extent of drawing blood. They are
also bought and sold without tiieir consent, but may change
masters at pleasure by obtaining a person to offer for them the
amount of the debt On the sum being tendered by the servant,
the master is not at liberty to refuse.

The progeny of servants are free. By the written laws, if a
man become &ther to a male child by his slave, he may keep it,
but the woman is thencefoith free. If it be a female child, the
&tiier and mother are considered to own but half; and if she pay
or procure to be paid the other hal^ the child is necessarily free.
But this rule is obsolete ; and, by universal custom, a slave who
bears to her master a child of either sex is free. If she choose
to remain, he is obliged to support her as his wife. Fathers may
pledge their wives and children for money borrowed, or, in other
words, sell them, as the money is often taken up without intention
of repayment The only escape from slavery for life, in such a
case, is for die person to obtain by some means the amount due.
Such sales are very common, as a man seldom has any other se-
curity to give ; but in most cases, a man redeems his family as
soon as he can.

Slaves are not treated with more severity than hired laborers.
A state of society where the modes of living are so simple, ren-
ders the condition of the slave little different from that of his
master. His food, raiment, and lodging, among all the middling
classes at least, are not essentially different Being of the same
color, they and their children incorporate without difficulty with
the mass of the people on obtaining freedom. The same fact tends
to ameUorate their condition. In fine, their state does not much

■3

sulyert — Dinsioir of time. 991

fiffer firom that of hired servants who liave received tiieir wages
ftr a long time in advance. Belonging to persons in the higher
eonditions does not increase the severity of the hondage ; for
though the distinction is greater, the services are less. Many
daves live at their own houses, just as other people, but liable to
be called on for labor, which, in many cases, is required only at
certun seasons of &e year.

In a country where rank is never for a moment forgotten, and
where the master has the power of a magistrate over all his de-
pendants, servitude creates a boundary which is in no danger of
being passed. The effect is to make the servant, in many cases,
die friend and companion of the master to a degree not ventured
upon by masters in countries where employment does not create
dependence, and where familiarity may induce assumptions. Still
the slaves of a despotic master can never be certain of his &vor,
and can seldom afford or dare to be honest They enforce his
most unjust exactions, as readily as any other commands. From
in&ncy they are trained to craftiness, and all their life serves to
confirm this vice.

The slaves to pagodas are in some respects better off than other
slaves, or even than common poor people, though it is considered
as a condemnation. They become such, chiefly by being given
to some pagoda by a great man, as a meritorious offering. Some-
times they are male&ctors, whose punishment is thus commuted.
More generally they are unofiending inhabitants of some district,
whose prince or ruler, for any cause, chooses to make such a
donation.

The Burman year consists of twelve lunar months, making the
year only three hundred and fifty-four days long. To supply this
deficiency, a whole intercalary month is introduced every third
year. The further rectifications which become necessary, are
made, from time to time, by royal proclamation, at the instance
of the astronomers. The common era corresponds with our
A. D. 639. The year commences about the middle of April, so
that the 15th of April, 1839, is the first day of their year 1201.
In numbering the days of the month, they go no higher than fif-
teen ; that is, from new moon to fiiU, and from full moon to new.

They have four worship-days in a month, viz. new and full
moon, and half way between them ; so that there is an interval,
sometimes of seven days, and sometimes of eight. Without any
regard to this arrangement, time is divided into exact weeks of
seven days each. What is very remarkable, the days are called

939 BUBMAH.

fitun the planets, as are ^urs. Thus they name the first day of
the week fit)m the sun, the second from the moon, third from
liars, fourth fit)m Mercury, fifrh, Jupiter, sixth, Venus, seventh,
Saturn. The arrangement is the same in Siam*

Both day and night are divided into four equal parts. I ne?er
found any instnunent fi>r keeping time, though there is a sort of
clepsydra at Ava. In the ^provinces," our mode of arranging
the hours is becoming common ; and time-pieces are not uncom-
mon in the hands of wealthy natives.

Burman weights are exhibited in the foUowing table, and are
used both for goods and money.

2 Small Raays equal. . . 1 Large Roay , or 1 pice.

4 Large Raays 1 Bai or Raay,. . 1 anna.

2 Bais 1 Moo, 2 annas.

2 Moos 1 Mat, 4 annas, (62j| gr. trey.)

4 Mats 1 Kyat, I tical.

100 Kyats 1 Piakthah or viss (3^^^ lbs. avoirdupois.)

The small may is the little scarlet bean, (abrus precatorius,)
with a black spot upon it, called in America, crab^s eye* The
large may is the black oblong bean, of the aden(mihau panomina*
The other weights are of brass, handsomely cast, and polished.

By late experiments at the Calcutta mint, the tical is found to
be 252 grains Troy, and to weigh exactly one cubic inch of distilled
water, at the temperature of 90°.

The kind of silver used may make the value more or less than
these rates. See more on this subject, under the head Currenct*
p. 227.

MEASURES OF LENGTH.

8 Thits (fingers' breadth) equal 1 Maik, (breadth of the hand with

thumb extended.)

1^ Maiks 1 Twah (span.)

2 Twahs 1 Toung (cubit.)

4 Toungs 1 Lan (fathom.)

7 do 1 Tah (bamboo or rod.)

140 do. or 20 Tahs 1 Oke-tha-pah.

7000 do. or 1000 Tahs 1 Taing (2 miles, 581 ft, 8 in.)

gJL Taings, or Daings, or 6400 > ^ U^^»»» «>' "^^^^ ^^^ m»^«"»
^ Tahs, or 320 Okethapas, C ^^^ ^^]^^ use except in the

J sacred books.)

MEASUREB — - LANeuAes. 9SB

MEASURES OF GAPACITT.

2 Lamjets aie eqaal to 1 Lamay.

2 Lamajs ...•• 1 Salay (about 1 pint.)

4 Salays • 1 Pyee (two quarts.)

2Pyee8 1 Sah (a gallon.)

2Sah8 1 Saik(apeck.)

2Saik8 1 Kwai.

2Kwai8 ITen.

lOO Tens 1 Coyan.

The ten is what Europeans in the country call a haskdj from
&e basket measure of that capacity. This full of clean rice is
a common allowance to a laborer for one month. It is deemed
to weigh fifty-eight and two fifths pounds, avoirdupois, or six-
teen yiss, or forty Penang catties.

The language is remarkably dissimilar to the other languages
of the East The character is beautifully simple, and is writ-
ten with facility. The style of forming letters, whether in print-
ing or writing, is precisely the same. The page of engraved
specimens furnishes a satisfactory view of these and other Ori-
ental characters. There are eleven vowels and thirty-three con-
sonants. About a thousand characters must be used in printing,
in consequence of the numerous combinations.

The structure of the language is natural, but very unlike the
English. The pronunciation is difficult, Giving partly to the
gutturals, and partly to the extreme nicety of the difference in
sound between words which mean very different things, and are
often spelled precisely alike ; and, on the whole, it is a difficult
language to acquire. All pure Burman words are monosyllables ;
but there are numerous polysyllables, derived chiefly from the
Pali. There being no inflections to any part of speech, greatly
simplifies the grammar. Number, person, mood, and tense, are
formed by suffixes. Negatives and adjectives are formed by pre-
fixes to verbs. The fastidiousness respecting rank, introduces
a perplexing variety of phrases to mean the same action in
different persons, to which allusion has already been made.
Even in regard to common actions, the verbs used are widely
different ; e. g. for our term to wash, are many words ; one is
used for washing the face, another for washing the hands, another
for washing linen in mere water, another for washing it with
soap, another for washing dishes, &c.
20*

934 BUBXAH.

Instead of a perplexing variety of spelling-booksy they havBt
Themrhong-gyee, or spelling and reading book, of about fixl|
pages octavo, of great antiquity, and so perfect, as that no ote
has ever been deemed necessary by the missionariea. It is drain
up philosophically, and when committed, the learner is in ponei-
sion of every possible sound in the language, except a few fioB
some Pali words which have crept into conunon use.

Books, as is generally known, are written usuaUy on polnibleif
with an iron pen or style. The leaf is prepared with care, and
of good books, the edges are gilded. Some have the margini
illuminated, and gilded with considerable elegance. The book
is defended by thin slabs of wood, more or less ornamented.
Sometimes thin leaves of ivory are used, and occasionally gilded
sheet iron. For common books, a thick, black paper is used,
which is written upon with a pencil of steatite. The writing
may be removed with the hand, as from a slate ; and such bodka^
called Tha-bikej last a long time. They are in one piece, of several
yards long, and folded like a fan. They can, of course, be used
on both sides ; and every portion may be sealed up by itself
thus furnishing a good idea of the book mentioned Rev. v. 1,
which was ^ written within and on the back side, sealed with
seven seals."

The number of books is, of course, not large in a ^ioimtrj
where printing is unknown. All principal citizens, however,
possess a few ; and the royal library at Ava contains some thou-
sand volumes, kept in large and elegant chests, assorted under
difierent heads, such as law, history, medicine, poetry, painting,
and music The greater part of the literature is metrical, and
consists of ballads, legends of Gaudama, histories of the kings,
astronomy, and geography.

The sacred books are in Pali, a dialect or corruption of the
Sunscrit The shape of the character is seen on the engraved
page of specimens. It is wholly a dead language, few even of
the priests being able to read it, and still fewer understanding
what they read. It was probably the vernacular tongue of Gau-
dama, that is, the Magdoh or Magadeh of Behar. Buchanan
seems mistaken in supposing the Pali of Ceylon, Burmah, and
Siam, to be difierent He was probably led into the error by the
language being written in the respective characters of those
countries, as it often is. Mr. Wilson thinks it a misnomer to
call the language Pcdi, and that that term belongs properly to the
character, and Magadeh or Puncrit to the language, correspond-

LmmATUBx. 986

Ttoig to ^be terna Magari sod SmueriL Heremaricfl^alflo^thatdie
knguage di^rs firom Sumerit only in enunciation, being more
■oft, and liquiQing all the harsh sounds.

Hie rudiments of education are widely diffiised, and most men,
e?en common laborers, learn to read and write a little. But few
go beyond these attainment& Women of respectability generally
can read, but comparatiYely few of those in humble life. There
is no objection manifested to their learning ; but as almost the
<»ily schools are the Kyoungs, where girls are not admitted, they
are necessarily left untaught, except where the parents can affi>rd
to pay a schoolmaster. Boys begin to attend the Kyoimg at
eight or ten years, but do not assume the yellow cloth till several
years after. They learn slowly, and, at the expiration of feur or
five years, have attained little more than, in a very bungling way,
to read and write, and to add, subtract, and divide. Those who
take the yellow cloth, and live in the Kyoung, become able to
understand a few books, and learn their system of the universe.
If they continue priests, and aspire after literature, they go on to
get a smattering of Pali and astrology, and if they mean to reach
the summit of Parnassus, study the Tlien-gyo^ or book of meta-
physics!

It has been often said that the Burmans are << a reading peo-
ple." They might more properly be called "a people that can
read." The written and colloquial styles are so different, that
few understand readily the sentiments of a book. The mass of
the people being wholly without books or periodicals, their
reading is confined to the short written instruments employed
in the transaction of business. It is truly remarkable that so
many children are taught to read, when it is foreseen so little
use can ever be made of the acquisition. It certainly is a provi-
dential preparation for the diffusion of the word of truth, and
ought to encourage the friends of missions in their design of dis-
tributing the Scriptures and scriptural ti'acts.

Properly speaking, there are no literary institutions in the
country, and few ever go beyond their acquisitions at the Kyoung.
Such as the literature is, it is almost abandoned to the pongyees.
A very few, especially among the nobles, are addicted to reading.
The most distinguished now is the Mekara prince, who reads
English, and collects foreign pictures, maps, coins, implements, &c.

As to astronomy and geography, the more they leai-n, the more
they are in error, for a more absurd system could not be. They
describe eight planets, viz. the sun, moon, Mercury, Venus, Mars,

Juphor, Sotiiniy and Ai^ ttra lait being mrlrible. All ih«ie»
Tolve round the earth, the aim going quicker than the
None of these planets are round, but are extended plaina,
in the manner explained in the chapter on religion. Ecsl^pees m
produced by Rahu, (pronounced Fa-^) an immenae mon8ler,iHN
puts the sun or moon under his chin, when the edipee is paila^
or takes it into his huge mouth, and then the ectipee ii toliL

They are not without maps of yarioua portions <^ their cqod-
try ; but sadly rude and imperfect, being made without inaA»-
matical or astronomical instruments of any sort. I saw sona
in which the artist, coming to the edge of the paper in tradng
out a river, turned up the side, and round the top ; thus pladng f
cities and streams to the north and ncHth-west, which, in &ct| f
were due east !

No branch of knowledge is cultivated with avidity but alche- '
my, in which absurd pursuit nearly every person, pretending to ^
literature, engages more or less. The royal femily is not exempt '
from this folly. Their only hope is to transmute base metals,
minerals, &C., into gold. In procuring specimens of mineralogy,
the natives always supposed this was my sole purpose ; and in
every bazar are sold stones and petrifactions, for the operatives
in this sublime science. As to the elixir of immortality, vdiicb
former lunatics of this sort hoped to discover, it never enters
into the head of a Burman alchemist He has no idea of im-
mortality. Neither his religion or philosophy permits the thought
Did he obtain it, it would dash all his hopes of nic-ban«

Whether the state of society exhibited in Burmah be, on the
whole, more conducive to happiness, than the species of civili-
zation which we enjoy, is a question I leave to philosophers. It
ill becomes us to scorn all states of society which difier greatly
from our own, vdthout inquiring how fer our estimate may be
formed by mere education and habit I would certainly prefer
to engraft science and religion on the condition of man in Bur-
mah, to having them accompanied by our forms of society, and
social constitution. There, human wants have a definite limit,
easily reached ; and leaving ample leisure to almost every mem-
ber of society for the pursuits of religion and science. With
us, it is scarcely possible for the great majority to fulfil the pre-
cepts of religion, or cultivate by science their immortal powers.
The laboring man can only by incessant efforts keep himself
and family supplied with what they think necessaries. With

DEeHEE .OF CIYILIZATIOir. 987

svexy grade above, it is the same. Not only is religion, bat
rauon and healtii, sacrificed, in our pursuits, exertions, and
auuisements. In vain do sacred teachers and philosophers cry
out against the universal perversion. So long as society is so
eoDstnicted, the evils niust remain. Prisons, hospitals, poor
rates, executions, poverty, disease, celibacy, and innumerable
•ofierings, grow up from these evils.

On the whole, the Burmans are fully entitled to be called a
civilized people. A regular government, a written language, an
established literature, a settled abode, foreign conunerce, respect-
able architecture, good roads and bridges, competent manu&c*
tores, adequate dress, gradations of rank, and the condition of
women, conspire to establish their claim to be so considered.
Their exact place in the scale of civilization is not so easily
settled. In intellect, morals, mannen^ and several of the points
just named, they are not surpassed by any nation of the Ea^t,
and are certainly superior to any natives of this peninsula. Prior
to the recent entrance of Europeans, the degree of civilization,
whatever it was, seemed to be fixed and complete. No change
in laws, habits, manufactures, food, dwellings, poetry, painting,
or indeed any thing else, had been made for centuries ; or if
made, yet so slowly as to impart no excitement to the public
mind. Now, the case is decidedly different. They not only have
contact with many Europeans, but confess inferiority ; and in
some things are adopting our modes and manufacture. In the
Tenasserim provinces, this is especially the case ; and should
England resign those possessions, the effects of her dominion on
the population will remain and extend. If the present king
should retain the views of state policy which he expressed to me
wliile a subject, and which he is the fittest man in the kingdom
to execute, Burmah must rapidly rise in political importance.

The introduction of the art of printing would, probably, do
more for this people than any other in India. Active, intelligent,
and persevering, the whole community would feel the impulse
of diffused knowledge. All would read, all would be quickened,
all would contribute to the general improvement It would
bring with it that stupendous influence, which is the wonder of
these latter days — the power of voluntary association. Men and
women would form small communities for the accomplishment
each of some favorite aim. Every improvement could be
made general. Every useful project would find friends, and
succeeding generations enjoy accumulating light

398 BinuEAS.

But in aDowing myself these anticipatkmi^ 1 lake for grairtei
that missioDafy efibrts will be hugely increased, and tfieir eSodt
fiJl upon the whole community. True religion can alone enaUe
the press to produce its fullest blessings. Without this, it msf
elevate the arts, improye science, and advance the general weahfc;
but it leaves them a race of rebels against the eternal Loid-^
a kingdom of Satan. Indeed, without religion, the preas oodil
not accomplish the worldly prosperity of the state. A preai^
directed by genuine, steady, and persevering beneTolence, mnt
operate for Burmah, ere she rise from the dust, and rit jof-
ously among the nations. As yet, all the power of the piM
is in our hands. What a trust! How are the Baptists in
America bound to follow up, widi tenfold energy, the wnt
diey have so well begun! How should the friends of man
lend their aid in disseminating among this people the ra£-
ments of true science, the principles of right government^
and the Messings of pure religion ! Even now, she is tbe
first native power in Farther India, and is second in all the Eaat
only to China. Within and around her, are a hundred tribes of
people, over none of whom is her influence less than that of
France over the smaller states of Europe. Let Burmah embfaoe
the Christian faith, and she has at her command, money and una-
nonaries for all their tribes.

239

CHAPTER VL

Sunt of Boodfainn — Meaning of the Term — Antiquity of the System —
■History of Gaudama — The next Boodh — The Bedagat — Theory of the
Universe — The Four Islands — This Island, or the Earth — OtigiB and
Fall of Man — Celestial Regions — Hells — No Eternal God -* Universe
eternal — Moral Code — Merit -^ Discourse of Gaudama — Reli^ous
Edifices — Images —• Impressions of Gaudama's Foot — Worship— Of-
ferings — Public Days — Superstitions — Nat-worship — Priests ; their
Dress, Residences, Morals, Office, Support, Numbers, Orders, Funerals —
Priestesses — Sects — Toleration — R^arks.

BooDHisM is, probably, at this time, and has been for many
centuries, the most prevalent form of religion upon earth. Half
)f the population of China, Lao, Cochin-China, and Ceylon ; all
)f Camboja, Siam, Burmah, Thibet, Tartary, and Loo-choo ; and a
^reat part of Japan, and most of the other islands of the southern
seas, are of this iiiith. A system which thus enchains the minds
of half tlie human race, deserves the attention of both Christians
uid philosophers, however fabulous and absurd.

Chinese accoimts make the introduction of Boodhism into that
empire to have occurred about A. D. 65. Marshman supposes
tlie Siamese and Laos to have received the system about three
centuries before Christ A very great increase of the Boodhist
faith is known to have occurred in China early in the sixth
centur}-, which may have resulted from the flight of priests with
him, about that time, from the persecution of the Brahmiuists.

Boodh is a general term for divinity, and not the name of any
particular god. There have been innumerable Boodlis, in dif-
ferent ages, among different worlds, but in no world more than five,
and in some, not any. In this world, there have been four Boodhs,
viz. Kan-ka-than, Gau-na-gjng, Ka-tha-pa, and Gaudama. In the
Siamese language, these are called Kak-a-san, Ko-na-gou, Kasap,
and Kodom. One is yet to come, viz. Aree-ma-day-ch.

It has been often remarked, that Gaudama was one of the incar-
nations of Vishnu, and appeai'ed in tlie form of a cow. This idea
has probably originated with the Hindus, and is advanced to sup-
port their assertion, that this religion is a branch of theirs. But no
two systems can be more opposite, or bear less evidence of one
bemg derived from the other. Biahniinism has incarnations, but
Boodhism admits of none, for it has no permanent God. If, in
its endless metempsychosis, any being should descend from the

hiffhest forms <rf*ex]8teiiee» to take hmnaii Datmey it would not M
an iDcamation of Deity, but a real degradation of being, and Ai
person so descending would become, Uieralbf^ a man. If he eiv
nee again, it must be by another almoet infinite change, nowli
better, and now to worse, as merit is gained or lost. YHA
Hinduism teaches one eternal d^ty, Boodhism has now no goA^
That has a host of idols; this only one. That enjoins hkiaif
sacrifices ; this forbids all kilUng. That requires atrocious sdf^
tortures ; this inculcates fewer austerities than even Popery. Thil
makes lyings finnication, and theft, sometimes commendaUe, and
describes the gods as excelling in these enormities ; this nofw
confounds right and wrongs and never excuses any sin. That
makes absorption into Deity the supreme good ; this AtinihiUtWM.
In fine, I know of no important resemblance. None of the Biab'
minical books are regarded by Boodhists as authcMitatiYe, and no
practices seem to be derired fix>m them. The fiict that Boodhiat
priests often worship kneeling on a cow-hide, is no evidenee
of affiliation to Brahminism, as has been asserted. They dis-
claim any religious preference for the hide of a cow. It is, in
fiict, just a piece of leather, of any kind, folded up like a book,
carried either by the priest or his attendant, and laid on tiie
ground when he kneels before a pagoda, to keep him from soUkig
his robe.

There are some reasons for considering Boodhism, if not the
parent system, yet probably more ancient than BrahminlsnL la
various parts of Hindustan are found indications that Boodhism
was once the prevailing faith. The caves of Elephanta * and
Eloraf contain images of Gaudama of great antiquity4 Colonel
Franklin discovered one of colossal size among tiie ruins of
Palibotbea. I have one of terra-cotta, bearing inscriptions in the
ancient Devnagari character. The Vedas themselves mention
Boodh. The Poorannas were unquestionably written some cen-
turies later than the period of Gaudama. The splendid ruins at
Prambana, Boro Budo, and Singa Sari in the interior of Java, are
regarded by Sir Stamford Raffles as having claims to the highest
antiquity of any such structure on the island ; and firom Captain
Baker's descriptions of these, there can be no doubt of their

* On an island of that name near Bombay.

t In the province of Aunmgubad.

\ For descriptions of these very remarkable caves, see Seely's Wonders of
EUora ; C. Malet ; Transactions of Bombay Lit. Soc. art. 9 and 15 ; DanleFs
Voyage to India ; Transactions Royal Asiat. Soc. vol. ii. 3 Modem Traveller,
vol. iv. } Duperron's Prelim. Disc, to his Zend Avista ; Asiatic Researches,
voLi.

origiiL The bxmgem are of Boodh. The Teiy term
or BtMOfU ia- tibe Jawieee langoage jfynonyinouB intfa
It" or ''peguu* The Javuieee npetik of tibe tiiiiea when
L%>iniiiin WW the raUgioii of their coimtiy as tibe ^ancaant
THteir ancient kwa make BO digtincdoaia, in the award of
•jiiidunatityin ftver of a Brahmin^ bat always in ftror da, IdngL
Wi » AO opponta to the religion of the Hindna^ that when they
We, nudfl^ finhmins oonkL Imve had no ascendency. Th^,
- ~*|MVVfei9 early aoquir^d poweri and when Mahometanism was
hwi^lil to Jara, it- tend tibe EDndn fiuth establidied as the-
Hij^oB of the eoimtty;

JMinumspi was introduced into Bali between three and finnr
hidwwl years ago^ pranoos to wliichi the reigning religion was
Boodfaiami* The esislenoe of caste, and the posidon of Brah-
nins on tibe pomade of it, indicate the seniority of BoodlusnL
Bid tfifr- religion of the ktter been the progerator, the whole sys-^
tmof caste would have been inherited, ahnest beyond a doubtt
We can searoel|y imagine that an established prieethoocl ahoold
nagn soch power and rank, as is held by tibe political, mooey-
initing^ haughty, and sensual Brahmins.

Boodh is posHtUj the Bndda or Butta of Bochart and Beauso-
hre; the.Bod of the Arabians ; the Bootta of demens Alezanchi-
nas; tibe Baoadi of GendL The pyramids of Egypt are so
odOarin their structure. to a pagoda, and so evidently contain
88^^ relics, and not the bones of kings, that they bear strong
evidences of being Boodhist pagodas.

The probafoility seems to be that Brahminism grew out of
fioodhism, and gained power and numbers in Hindustan till the
close of the first century of the Christian era, when they were able
to commence that persecution of which their own records speak,
and which drove out the teachers of Boodhism into Farther India^
li^ience it extended into China.

tiaudama was the son of Thoke-daw-da-reh, or, as it is writ-
ten in Sunscrit, Soodawdaneh, king of Ma-ge-deh, (now called
Behar,) in Hindustan. He was bom about R C. 626.

He had previously lived in four hundred millions of worlds,
and passed through innumerable conditions in each.. In this
wcnid, he had been almost every sort of worm, fly, fowl, fish, or
animal, and almost every grade and condition of human life.
Having, in the course of these transitions, attained immense
merit, he at length was bom son of the above-named king. The

* Crawfurd's Indian ArchipelagO; book vi. ch. 2.
VOL. L 21

Ma BDUUO.

moment he wbb bom, he jumped upon hi8leet,Emd,4ireBdbHm
l)iaannB,exclaimed,''Nowaui 1 t]ie uoblestof nienE Tbiabfl
last time I aboil ever be bom ! " ills height, when grown upt^
nine cubita. His eare were so beautifully long, aa to bgnf q
his shoulders ; his bands reached to his knees ; hia fingen w
of equal length ; and with bis tongue he could toudi tbe and 41
his nose! All which are considered irrefiagable proob of Ul r
dirinit;.

When in this state, bis mind was enlarged, bo that he n
bered his former conditions and exiatences. Of these Iw »
hearsed many to his followere. Five hundred and SSj of IfaM
■urrativeB have been preserved, one relating his life and ■ '
tures as a deer, another as a monkey, elephuit, fowl, &«, tte.
Tiie collection is called Jhai, and forma a very considenbte put
of the sacred book& These legends are b griiifid source of ^
mgnsfor BurmanpuDtings. Of these 1 purchased several, w
do but bring out into visible absurdity the system they wouU
illustrate.

He became Boodh in the thirty-fiflh year of his age, and n- '
mained bo forty-five years, at the end of which time, hqving per-
formed all sorts of meritorioua
deeds, and promulgated excellent
laws, far and wide, he obtained
" Dicbsn," that is, entered into an-
nihilation, together with five hun-
dred prieets, by whom he had
been long attended. This oc-
curred iu HioduBtan, about two
thousand three hundred and
eighty years ago, or B, C, 546
The Cingalese make his death
to have occurred B. C. 5^ and
the Siamese, who also reckon
time trom that era, make it K C
544. At his death, he advised
that, in addition to obeying his
laws, his relics and image should
be worshipped, and pagodas built
to bis memory, till the develop-
ment of the next Boodh. He is in-
variably represented in the some
manner, except that si

mxumoiu 943

1ft made to wear a crown, necklace, ornaments on his arms, &c«

^Ibe common representation is given in my Bible Dictionary ; the

«dier is exhibited in the accompanying cut I have seen them of

an sizes, from half an inch long, to seventy-five feet — of wood.

ttnne, brass, brick, clay, and ivory.

The next Boodh is to appear in about seven or eight thouitand
years from the present time. His height will be eighty cubits ;
his mouth will be five cubits wide, and the length of the hairs
of his eyebrows ^e cubits. The precise time of his arrival is
not predicted.

No laws or sayings of the first three Boodhs are extant Those
of Gaudama were transmitted by tradition, till four hundred and
fifty years after his decease, when they were reduced to writing in
Ceylon, that is, A. D. 94. These are the only sacred books of the
Burmans, and are all in the Pali language. They are comprised
m three divisions, or books, viz. Thoke, Wiimee, and Abeeda-
mah. £ach of these is divided into distinct books, or sections.
The whole is called the BedagaL Copies of parts of these works
are not scarce, though found chiefly with the priests. Entire
copies are rare. Some of them are truly elegant, the leaf being
covered with black varnish, as fine and glossy as enamel, and
over this the words written in gold letters.

They are all in the same form, and strung on a cord. The
outsides are often defended by a handsomely carved and gilded
board, of the same size as the leaves. The strings with which
they are tied are about an inch wide, and a fathom long, with
some sentence woven in with the texture. These are either
some quotation from a sacred book, or some pious sentiment
One of those in my possession reads thus : — " This book-string is
offered you, with affectionate regard, to tie up your sacred book ;
tiiat precious book where you will find the door by which to
enter Nicban."

The cosmogony of the Bedagat is not precisely alike in the
different books; and even in the same book inconsistencies often
occur. The following sketch therefore, though derived from the
best informed priests and missionaries, differs in some respects
from various statements which have appeared, and is to be re-
ceived as the scheme set forth in such books as my informants
had read.

The universe is composed of an infinite number of systems,
called Sak-yas. These systems touch each other at the circum-
ference, and the angular spaces between them are filled up with
very cold water. Each side of these spaces is three thousand

944 BURMAB.

uzenas long. Of these innumerable systems, some are comrtui^
becoming chaotic, and reproduce themselves in course of timOi
Of these formations and dissolutions there was never a begimuDf^
and will never be an end.

Each system consists of a great central mountain surrounded
by seas, and four great islands, each surrounded by five hundred
smaller ones, and with celestial and infernal regions. Of this
great mountain, the eastern side is of silver, the western of glasB^
the northern of gold, and the southern of dark ruby. It is called
J^fyenmo, and is eighty-four thousand uzenas high. Its base is
equally deep. The top is flattened to a plain forty-eight thousand
uzenas in diameter. Seven chains of mountains, and seven great
rivers or seas, encircle the mount on every side.

The four great islands have each a shape, to which that of the
smaller ones belonging to it, is exactly conformed. Ours is oval,
the western is round, the northern is a parallelogram, and the
eastern semilunar. The color of each set of islands is derived
fi'om that side of the mountain next to them. The inhabitants
have both their color and the shape of their faces conformed to
that of the island on which they dwell. Those on the eastern
islands are nine cubits high, those on the western six, those of
the northern tlmteen. The inhabitants of the eastern and west-
em islands practise agriculture and the arts, much as we of the
southern do ; but those of the nortiiern have no such employments.
A tree is there which yields all manner of garments, meats, fish,
&c. They have no sorrows or pains ; and every individual lives
just a thousand years. Between the great islands ships cannot
pass. The sea there rises in waves sixty or seventy uzenas high,
and contains fishes six hundred and seven hundred uzenas long,
the mere movement of whose bodies often creates tempests
which reach hundreds of uzenas !

This earth is the southern cluster of islands, and we are living
on the large one. It is a convex plane, not a sphere, and is di-
vided by mountains and navigable seas. Its diameter is ten
thousand uzenas, eind the thickness of the crust or surface on
which we live is two hundred and forty thousand uzenas. Be-
low this is water twice as deep as the earth is thick. The whole
is supported on a stratum of air twice as deep as the water,
and which supports itself by internal concussions or explosions.
Beneath is vacuum.

In the other three islands and their dependencies, the inhabit-
ants have always had the same length of life. But in ours, the
period constantly varies. At flrst, our race lived as many years

uueioN. 945

M there would be drops of rain if it rained three years incessant-
If. In a Siamese version of the same book, it is given as a period
flf years embracing one hundred and sixty-eight ciphers. FaU-
ing off in virtue and correct habits, the term gradually contracted,
in die course of myriads of ages, to ten years.* Then mankind
ms led to reflect and reform, and the period gradually enlarged,
m they became more temperate and correct, till it rose even to the
primitive duration. By succeeding degeneracy, it gradually con-
tracted agtdn to ten. Of these increases and diminutions there
have been eleven, and will be fifty-three more, before the sakiya
■ystem, to which we belong, will be again destroyed. At this
time, the period of life is contracting through our increasing de-
generacy, and has fallen to eighty years.

The inhabitants of the three other islands and their dependen-
cies are always reproduced in the same island. But our world
has this advantage, that by merit we may rise to the several
heavens, and even to Nicban itself.

When, by the power of fete, a system is to be destroyed, it oc-
curs either by fire, water, or wind. The process of renovation is
exemplified in the following account of our own world, which,
like the others, has repeatedly been destroyed and renewed.
After lying in a state of chaos many ages, the crust of the earth
recovered firmness, and was covered with a thin crust of sweet
butter. The grateful fragrance ascending to the heavens, celes-
tial beings were filled with desire to eat it, and, assuming human
8ha]>e, came down in large numbers. Their bodies were lumi-
nous, and they needed no other light. Becoming quarrelsome
and corrupt, the delicious crust disappears, and their bodies be-
come dark. In their distress, the sun appears ; and afterward,
the moon and stars. Compelled now to seek other food, they
find rice growing without a husk, and thus needing no labor.
Fire, spontaneously issuing from the stones, cooks it. This ^ross
food at length excited various passions, and mankind became di-
vided into sexes. Marriage followed. The race degenerating
still more, was obliged to choose a king. Quarrels multiply, and
men disperse over the world. Climate, water, and food, then
produce the diversities we see among nations.

The celestial regions consist of twenty-six heavens, one above
another ; and the infernal regions of eight principal hells.

* It is exceedino^Iy remarkable how universal, among all nations, is the
tradition, that our race was originally pure and happy, but, becoming corrupt,
fell from their high enjoyments, and became heir to the sorrows we now see.

21*

246 BURMAfl.

eacli surrounded by sixteen smaller ones. The base of Myenmi
Mount is inhabited by dragons, great birds^ and animals of ai>
known shapes. The middle region constitutes the lower of 1i»
six inferior heavens, and is inhabited by powerful beings, calM
Seedoo-mahah-rajah, The summit is the next iniferior heam^
called Tah-tDarting4ha, Above, in open space, are the finff
others, viz. Yormah, Tohe4he-^lahf Par-anring-^metaf and JSftc*
toordee. The inhabitants of all these are called JVcd». Thqr
never perform servile labor, for trees bear in profusion ewrj
object of necessity or gratification. The term of their lives is
about nine million times longer than the present terra of our& li
Their children are born with the degree of maturity that ours
have at fifteen years old. What we call thunder, is the noise tbey
make when at play ; and rain is produced by the agitation they
make in the air in running about

In these first six heavens, the inhabitants have body and soul,
like ourselves ; in the next sixteen, they are pure matter ; and in
the last four, pure spirit

The aim of mortals is to attain, after death, to Tah-wa-ting-
tha, the diameter of which is the same as this earth. Like the
abodes of the Nats, it abounds in good things, of which the Be-
dagat contains copious and minute details. Among the glorious
possessions of Thig-ya-men, its king, (whose principal residence
is fully described,) is a huge white elephant This animal, named
Ay-ra-woon, is fifty uzenas high, and has seven heads ; each head
has seven tusks, and each tusk seven tanks. In each of these
tanks grow seven lilies: each lily has seven blossoms; each blos-
som has seven petals ; each petal bears up seven palaces, and in each
palace are seven nymphs, or wives of the king, each surrounded
by five hundred attendants. Another elephant has one great
head, thirty uzenas long, on which the king occasionally rides;
and thirty-two smaller heads, for the thirty-two royal princes.

Of the principal hells, four inflict punishment by heat, and the
other four by cold. Each of these is ten thousand uzenas wide>
In the sixteen minor hells, the wicked suffer every conceivable
misery, not connected with cold or heat. Worms of vast size
bite them ; their bowels are torn out, their limbs racked, and their
bodies lacerated or beaten with dreadful hammers. They are
pierced with red-hot spits, crucified head downward, gnawed by
dogs, and torn by vultures. These and a thousand other evils
are described with minuteness in the Bedagat, and often depicted
in the drawings of native artists. The inhabitants are six miles

RELieiOK. 917

iugli, and are continually creeping and roaming about, in the yast
enres of their dreadful abode.

For killing a parent or a priest, a man will suffer in one of the
liells of fire, during the whole period of a sakiya system. To
deny or disbelieve the doctrines of Gaudama, incurs eternal suf-
firing in fire. Killing men or animals, causing criminals to be
executed, insulting women, old men or priests, cheating, receiy-
ing bribes, selling any intoxicating liquor, and parricide, are pun-
ished in the worst hells. In some books, a regular scale is made
out for estimating the gradation of guilt in all these crimes.

Merit may be gained by good conduct in any of these hells, so
that except the criminality has incurred eternal torment, the suf-
ferers may rise again to become insects, beasts, men, nats, &c

Such are the accounts which fill the sacred books, and with
which I might fill many pages. It is not important that I quote
more. 1 have quoted thus much, as part of^the history of the
human mind, and as necessary to a proper estimate of the Boodh-
ist religion.

Of any supreme Grod, or any eternal self-existent being, Boodh-
ism afiR)rds no intimation ; nor of any creation or providence.
From the annihilation of one Boodh, till the development of
another, there is literally no God. Intervening generations must
worship his image, law, and priests, and for their rules of life
keep the sayings of the last Boodh, viz. Gaudama.

Not only has the universe and all its sakiya systems existed
from eternity, but also the souls of all the inhabitants, whether
animals, men, or celestials. These souls have from eteraity been
transmigrating from one body to another, rising or falling in the
scale of existence and enjoyment, according to the degree of
merit at each buth. This rise or fall is not ordered by any in-
telligent judge, but is decided by immutable fate. In passing
through these various forms of existence, the amount of sorrow,
endured by each soul, is incalculable. The Bedagat declares
that the tears shed by any one soul, in its various changes from
eternity, are so numerous, that the ocean is but as a drop in com-
parison ! Existence and sorrow are declared to be necessary
concomitants ; and therefore " the chief end of man " is to finish
this eternal round of changes, and be annihilated.

The great doctrines of this faith are five ; viz. 1. The eternal
existence of the universe, and all beings. 2. Metempsychosis.
3. Nicban, or annihilation. 4. The appearance, at distant periods,
of beings who obtain deification and subsequent annihilation.
5. The obtaining of merit. Of the first four of these, enough

JM8 BtmiiAV.

liM been already sakL The last is mofe detetping of ucAlMt
embracing, as it does, the whole system of moraI&

Merit consists in aroiding sins, and peHbrming virtoes ; and
the degree of it is the sole hope of the Boodhist The fbrgne-
ness of sins, and the receipt of faror throagh the merit df
another, are doctrines unknown. That sufiering can be in any
way regarded as a blessing, is to him absm'd.

The sins which are to be avoided are described in a mord
code, consisting of five principal and positive laws : — 1. Then
shaft not kill 2. Thou shalt not steal. 3. Thou shalt not com-
mil adultery. 4 Thou shalt not lie. 5. Thou shalt not drink
any intoxicating liquor. These are explained and branched out
so as to include all sins of the same kind, under each head.
The first of these laws is extended to all killing even that of
animals for food. The very religious will not kill vermin. War
and capita] punishments are considered forbidden by the first
law.

Sins are divided into three classes: — 1. Those of the body;
such as killing, theft, fornication, &c 2. Those of the tongue ;
as fiilsehood, discord, harsh language, idle talk, &c. 3. Those
of the mind ; as pride, covetousness, envy, heretical thoughts,
adoring false gods, &c.

The sacred books portray strongly the evils of pride, anger,
covetousness, and inordinate appetites. Men are urged to avoid
excessive perfumes, ornaments, laughter, vain joy, strong drink,
smoking opium, wandering about the streets in the night, ex-
cessive fondness for amusements, frequenting bad company, and
idleness. Those who aspire to Nicban are cautioned to abhor
sorcerj', not to credit dreams, nor be angry when abused, nor
elated when approved, not to flatter benefactors, nor to indulge in
scorn or biting jests, and most carefblly to avoid enkindling strife.

The states of the mind are resolved into three classes: — 1. When
we are pleased in the possession of agreeable things. 2. When
we are grieved and distressed by evil things. 3. When neither
do good things gratify us, nor evil things distress. The last is
the best state ; and in it a man is rapidly preparing for Nicban.
In this there is no small resemblance to the doctrine of the
Stoics, and some approach to the Christian doctrine of weanedness
from the world. Some of their books abound in good compar-
isons ; such as, that he who runs into sinful enjoyments is like a
butterfly, who flutters round a candle till it falls in ; or one who,
by licking honey from a knife, cuts his tongue with the edge.
There is scarcely a prohibition of the Bedagat, which is not

3IB

ir Holy Si^rijiturcs ; and the orguracnte appeoded
to them ore often juet and Ibrcible.

Merit is of three kinds :— I. Theda, or the obBurvonco of all
the proliihitions tmd precepia, and all duties fuirly deduciWe
fivm tJieiii ; such as beneficence, gentleness, intefpdty, lenity, .
forbearance, condescension, veneration to parents, love to man*
kind, &.C. ^ Dtma, or giving alms and ofleringB. Tliis iucludea
feeding priests, building kyounga, pagodas, and zayata, placing
bells at pagodas, making public roads, tanks, and wells, planting
trees for sliade or fruit, keeping pots of cool water by tbe wayv^
ade for the use of travellers, feeding criminals, birds, animal^
&C. 3. Bawano, or repeating prayers, and reading religious
books. Of tbia last, tbere are three degrees, or sorts ; tbc flrat
consisting in merely reciting prayers, or reiuliug ttiougbttesaly ;
the second, and more nieritorious, is praying or reading, with
a mind attentive to the exercise ; tbe third, and most excellent,
is tbe performing these exercises with strong desires and awsb'
ened feelings. He who neglects to lay up merit, is compared to .
a man who eeXs out on a journey through an uninhabited country,.,
beset with wild beasts, and provides himself neither with food
Dor weapons.

Alms-deedij are meritorious according to the objects on which.
they are bestowed; according to the following generrd scale: — .
I. AnimalA % Common Inborers, fishotnien, &c. 3. Herehanta
and the upper classes, when in necessity. 4 Priests. For ahna
of the first class, the rewards are long life, beauty, strength,
knowledge, and prosperity, during a bimdred tranBinigrationa ;
fbr those of the second class, the same, during a thousand
transmigrations; for the third, tbe same, during ten thousand;
for the fourth, a vastly greater niunber, but indefinite, being
graduated according to ^e degree of sanctity the particular
prieHts may possess. Alms given by a poor man are declared
10 be incomparably more meritorious than those given by the
rich. Bo great merit is conferred by acta of Dana, that perBons
are distinguished in society by honorable appellations on this
flCCOimt Tbe moif meritorious deed is to make an idol, and thia
in proportion to its size and value. He who has done this is
called thenceforth Pya-laga. He who builds a pagoda becpmes
a Ttordee-taga. Next is he who builds a kyoimg — li^imng-iaga.
He who has sacred books transcribed, is a Sak-taga. He who
incurs the expensea of making a priest, is Thengtm-taga. The
builderof azayatisan/at-faigfa; tbemakerofa tank,y(^~^fiH)-t(^(i>

BU&KAS.

^ese, and similar tides, are in common use, and are regafM
with the same respect as squire, caption, colonel, deacon, &C.,
are with u&

In attaining Banjoana, the third sort of merit, a prominent ex-
ercise, is the frequent repetition of the words **aneit'Sa, doke-khOt
JDirnahrta^ The first of these words implies our liability to out-
ward injuries and evils ; the second, our eJq>osiu*e to mental so^
ferings ; the third, our entire inability to escape these evils. The
repetition of this prayer or soliloquy is of far greater merit than
even alms-giving. To keep some reckoning in this most im-
portant particular, the votary commonly uses a string of beads,
and passes one through his fingers at each repetition.

Many discourses said to have been delivered by Gaudama,
are given in the Bedagat In these, the duties of parents, chil-
dren, husbands, wives, teachers, scholars, masters, slaves, &C., are
drawn out and urged, in a manner which would do honor to any
casuist.

The following is part of one of these, addressed to a distin-
guished personage, who sought his instruction how to avoid
evil: —

** Know thou, that to keep fi*om the company of the ignorant,
and choose that of learned men ; to give honor to whom it is due ;
to choose a residence proper to our station, and adapted for
procuring the common wants of life ; and to maintain a prudent
carriage, — are means of preserving a man from evil doings. The
comprehension of all things that are not evil, the exact knowl-
edge of the duties of our station, and the observance of modesty
and piety in our speech, are four excellent modes of renouncing
wickedness.

"By ministering a proper support to parents, wife, and &mily ;
by purity and honesty in every action ; by alms-deeds ; by observ-
ing the divine precepts ; and by succoring relations, — we may
be preserved from evil. By such a freedom from faults, that not
even the inferior part of our nature manifests any affection for
them ; by abstinence from all intoxicating drink ; by the continual
practice of works of piety ; by showing respectfulness, humility,
and sobriety before all ; and gratitude to our benefactors ; and,
finally, by listening often to the preaching of the word of God, —
we overcome evil inclinations, and keep ourselves far from sin.
Docility in receiving the admonitions of good men ; frequent visits
to priests; spiritual conferences on the divine laws; patience,
frugality, modesty; the literal observance of the laAv; keeping

BTT f BlUlf fifil.

b^ftm pur Bf9^ ih» four states iotp whieh ]iv]|ig erefttuiVMi pMp
•fter dMtli ; and meditation op the bappy repoae q€ NicbmSf^
these are distinguished rules fi>r pressrviug qaan tern wifii^^

<*That intrepidity and serenity which good men pfssenre amid
the eight eyils of life ; (abundance and want, jiosy and sonow,
populari^ and abandoninent, censure and jMraise ;) their freedom
from fear and inquietude; from the daik mists of comsupiscenoe;
and, finally, their insensibility to su^ring ; — these are four rsre
gifts, that remove men for fix>m eyiL Thereforey O sir ! imprint
well upon your heart the tbirty-'oigtit precepts I have just defiv-
ered. Let them be deeply TQSHifid ihere, and see that you put
them in practice."

Pagodas are innumerable. In the inhabited parts, there is
scarcely a mountain peak, Uuff bank, or swelling hiU, without
one of these structures upon it Tholse of Pegu and Siam are
all formed upon oat model, tfaoii^ the.coixiiceB and decorations
are according to the builders' taste. In general, they are entirely
solid, having neither doof nor window, and contain a deposit of
money, or some supposed rdfie of Gandama. IVom the base
they narrow rapidly to afaoot ndd-way, and then rise vrith a long
spire, surmounted with the sacnd tee. This is the style of
pagodas shown in my Bible IKctionaryi and in Mm Judson's
Memoir. Some of diose around Ava, and especially those at
Paghan, are less tapering, and more resembling temples. One
of these recently built at Ava is shovni on page 142. This pagoda
is new, and was hardly finished when I took it Much of the
minute tracery on the stucco is necessarily omitted in a drawing
on so reduced a scale.

The sacred tee is of sheet iron, wrought into open work
and gilded, it of course rusts off in time, and is seldom seen
on an old structure. Its shape is that of a bell, or the bowl of a
wine-glass, and may be distinguished in the foreground of the
landscape of Tavoy. Round the rim are suspended small bells,
to the clappers of which hang, by a short chain, a sheet-iron lea(
also gilded. The wind moving the pendent leafj strikes the clap-
pers against the bells, and keeps up a pleasant chime. Around
all chief pagodas are smaller ones, somethnes amounting to
hundreds, and of great size. Particular descriptions of individ-
ual pagodas are found in other parts of this book.

I am not sure of the origin of the term pagoda, applied by
European writers to this structure. The term is unknown to

TSiuneie. The former call it Tnt-Ae,Badwoai06iBm
pTa4ta-du, but more commonly aimpl; Fhra — god. Tba litRr
call it CAa-(fee o ~ ~

ZayatB are not exclusively religious buildings. Some are in-
tended to contain idols, end some are for the accommodation of
worshippers and travellers, and for town hells. The majority
contain no idols, and are intended only to aftbrd shelter for wor-
shippers end travellers. Some of these are mere sheds, open
on all sides; but in almost all cases, they are built in a lar more
durable and costlv manner than dwelling- bouses

£t«7 Tillage has a zsyat, wliure Uie stranger may repoBe or
Bta; ibr nuuiy days, if he please ; oniil Qiany a time 1 tbuDd Ibem
1 comfortable lodging- jiJ ace. Like the choultries of HiuduHlan,
ihej are of luispeakalile utility ia & couutry destitute of inns,
and where every hcuse haa its full complement of inmalee.

Many zayats, especially iiear great cities, are truly lieautiflil,
and very costly. The ceiliugB and piUara arc uot only elabo-
rately carved, hut comjiletely gilded, and tbe stucco floors rival
niarhle in faardneaa and polisli. One of these is given in the
above cut, which represents a zuyat in ttie enclosure of the great
pagoda at Rangoon. It has a shrine for Boodh, wliii^b ie rather
rare in zaj-ats ; and on the lefl: are some of the huge stone jars
used to receive the offeringB of the worslijppers. By an error
of ilie engraver, they are but one tlji/d of the proper size.

Nnar all considerable cities ore a number of zayats, which
may he called temples, erected to contain collections of
idols, amounting in some cases to hundreds. In general, these
are all colossal, and some are huge. It) eacli collection will
be found a recumbent image, Eixiy, eighty, or even a himdred
ft«t long, made of brictc covered wiEli stucco, and often gilded.
Almost ail the idols which are larger than life are thus formed ;
but BO skilflil are the artists in working in lime, that the images
have the appearance of polished marble. Groups of ininges
repmspiiling Ciiudania walking with his rice-pol, followed
by attendants with theirs, or illustiating some conspicuous pas-

The doors or gateways of religious
edifices are generally guarded by huge
Balus and lions, as they call them. The
Balu is an evil genius, personitied as a
hideous man, armed with a great club.
A representation of one of these frightftil
demons is given at the foot of page 132.
'Diey are often of colossal size, but are
not so uniformly of one pattern, as the
lions. The lions are always precisely
alike, however different in size ; and as
there are no lions in Burmab, they have

Kumbled on a representation which horribly caricatures that

lordly beast

Sometimes other images are added, as crocodiles, turtles,

dogs, &c. In the compounds of the best pagodas, are various

VOL. I. aa

954

BUUIAB.

Structures, more or less elegant, presented Iqr
wealthy worshippers. Some of these leaeint
ble umbrellas; others are like shrines; btt
the most common are streamers, listened to
a mast Some of these are truly beautiM
They are cylinders of fine book muslin, kept
round by light hoops of ratan, and ornamented
with figures cut out of nlver or gold paper.
On the top is the carved and gilded henzOf
or sacred' bird — a creature of imagination,
resembling nothing in heaven above or earth
beneath.

Images and sacred edifices pass through no
form of consecration ; and an intelligent
Burman, when pressed in argument, stren-
uously denies that he worships these things.
He claims to use them as Papists do a cruci-
fix. He places no trust in them, but uses
them to remind him of Graudama, and in
compliance with Graudama's commands.
Hence he feels no horror at beholding them
decayed ; and the country is full of such as
have gone to ruin. The merit of making a
very small pagoda, or image, is much greater than the repairing
even of the largest The son, therefore, sulSers the father's
structure to sink into ruin, though trifling repairs might prolong
its existence for years. The builder himself seldom attempts to
repair the ravages of time, which in this country proceed witli
extraordinary rapidity; preferring to build anew, if again
prompted to the same species of piety. That the common
people do really and truly worship the very pagodas and
images, is most evident Indeed, such seldom deny it. Few
would dai*e to strike or deface one. Even the Christians are
often unable to summon courage to do such a deed.

Impressions of Gaudama's foot are shown in various places, and
receive religious worship. Several of these, not only in Burmah,
but in Ceylon, Siam, and Lao, are affirmed to have been really
stamped there by tlie deity himself, and are adduced as evidences
of his extensive travels. The rest are avowed copies of these
impressions, and are more numerous. Some are in stone, and
some in stucco, generally handsomely gilded and canopied by
some respectable structure. Those of Burmah and Ceylon seem

Streamer.

MX to be preeisdj alike. Below is a Barman copj greadj m-
doced. I have a full descriptioa of tbe figures in every com-
I, but could not ^t tbeir mvslic significaticHH, if ibej han
llie BerpentB or nagidit, nhich encircle tbe foot, are al-
in^ added in repfcaentatitws, for ranamenb

Worehip Is not performed collectively, though crowds assemble
at the sume time od set days. £ach one makes bis aSetinga,
and recites his jini vers alone. No priests officiate; no tmion of
voices is attempted. On arriving at the pagoda or image, the
worshipper walks reverently to within a convenient distance,
and, laying his offering on the ground, siis down behind it, on his
knees and heels, and, placing the palms of hla bands together,

xaisea tfaem to hia forehead, and perhaps leans forward tifl
head touches the ground. This is called the shuho. He
utters his prayers in a low tone, occasionally bowing as
and, having finished, rises and carries forward his gift, layu
. somewhere near the idol or pagoda. Some proceed first to
of the great bells, which hang near, and strike several times
one of the deer's horns which always lie beneath. When
goes alone, this is seldom omitted.

The prayer consists of the form already quoted, (^Aneittiil
Dokekha, Ahnahta,") or of a repetition of certain protestatiotfi
such as, « I will not lie, I will not steal, I will not kill," &c. Each
speaks audibly ; but no one is disturbed, though scores kneel skll
by side. No greetings or recognitions are seen ; nothing seenM
to divert their attention ; and the profound humility of both pot*
ture and gesture, give a solemn aspect to the whole scene. Old
people, who cannot remember the forms, and persons who are
difiident of their ability in this exercise, get some priest to write
them a few sentences, which they carry before the pagoda or idd,
and, fastening it in one end of a stick, stick the other end in the
ground, and put themselves for a time into the posture of prayer
behind it At Ava, quantities of these may be gathered any
worship-day. The beads used in worship are made usually of
black coral, or of the hai*d shell of the coco-nut There are
fiily or sixty on a string. Some persons carry them at ail times
in their hand, especially the priests, and appear, by passing over
one at a time, to be saying their prayers, even in the midst of
conversation.

Frequently a worshipper spends an entire day or night at the
pagoda, reclining in some of the zayats. When the night is
chosen, he takes his bed and some refreshments, candles, &c.
These are so light that the most aged persons carry them with
ease, suspending the bed fix)m one end of a pole, and the water-
jar, offering, &C., from the other. I often met these people in
tiie zayats lying about, reading fit)m palm-leaves, or returning in
the morning to their homes. They reminded me of the embar-
rassment I felt, when a child, in reading of our Savior's ordering
men to " take up their bed and walk." These beds consist of a
clean mat, which weighs but three or four pounds, and a short,
round pillow, with sometimes a cloth or sheet The latter are
rolled up in the mat, and tied with a twine, so that the whole is
both light and portable.

None but priests go to the pagoda without carrying some of-
fering, though it be but a flower, or a few sprigs plucked from a

RELIGION. 357

busby in possiDg. A tasteful nosegay is the common gift, but
^hose who can afford it carry, oDce a week, articles of food and
rumenL The former .is always cooked in the nicest manner,
Wid delicately arranged in saucers made of the fresh plantain
leaf Women carry their gifts in shallow baskets on their heads,
and men in their hands, or suspended from the ends of a shoul-
dw-pole. They proceed in groups, gossiping and gay, and dis-
play their piety with exuberant self-complaceucy.

There are four days for public worship in every lunar month ;
viz. at the new and full moon, and seven days after each, so that
sometimes their sabbath occurs after seven days, and sometimes
after eight The new and full moons are the principal sabbaths ;
but few persons observe even all of' these. Even those who at-
tend the pagoda, always continue their business, except during
the brief absence. The aspect of the city or village, therefore, is
not changed, and the stranger would not know the day had ar-
rived, did he not visit the pagoda, or the principal avenues lead-
ing to iL There is, in J&ct, no sabbath in Burmah, nor is any re-
quired by their religion. It is meritorious to observe the day,
but not sinful to disregard it

The number of worshippers at the chief pagodas, is always
Bifficient on Sundays to produce a large ainount of offerings, and
on such days the slaves of the pagoda take care of such €is are
useful, and divide the whole among themselves. On otlier days,
dogs and crows consume the offerings, often attacking a gift the
moment the worshipper quits it, and devouring it without the
slightest molestation. I used to supply myself sometimes with a
handsome bouquet from before the idol, walkhig unmolested
among prostrate worshippers. Whatever flowers or fragments
are left to the next morning are swept out like common dirt.

Burmans are oppressed with a multitude of inconvenient super-
stitions. They observe dreams, omens, lucky and unlucky days,
and believe in the casting of nativities, supernatural endowments,
relics, charms, witchcraft, invulnerability, &c. The aspect of
the stars, the howl of dogs, the flight of birds, the involuntary
motions of the body, the cawing of crows, the manner in which
fowls lay their eggs, the holes made by rats, and a hundred such
things, are constantly observed. A man will not make his canoe
of the intended tree, if it falls in an unlucky manner, or the knots
are discovered to be unfortunately arranged. They are especially
observant of the lines in the palms of one's hand. If the lines on
the end of the fore-finger are disposed in circles, it indicates

22*

956 BURMikH.

prosperity ; if in arcs of a circle, great unhappiness, &c. Shoct
fingers are regarded as a sign of lasciviousness.

Amulets and charms are worn by both sexes, but not by a large
number, as among Hindus. One of these, conunon among mili-
tary men, is the insertion of pieces of gold, or other metal, and
sometimes small gems, under the skin of the arm, between the
elbow and shoulder. I was allowed, by one of the ChristianB at
Ava, to take from his arm several of these. They are of gdd,
inscribed with cabalistic letters.

Circumstances, of course, often tend to confirm these imaginft-
tions. The fall of the royal spire when the king removed his
residence from Umerapoora was immediately succeeded by the
news of the capture of Rangoon. Comets are regarded as por-
tending great disasters, and one appeared during the advance of
the British army.

The fear of witches prevails universally, and physicians de-
rive much of their profits from the sale of medicines which are
to give security from their arts. As in other countries, the per-
sons charged with possessing infernal powers are generally poor
old women. These sometimes favor the suspicion for purposes
of gain, and sometimes are subject to maltreatment Vultures
and owls are birds of evil omen, and families will sometimes va-
cate a house on which one of these birds has alighted. The
tattooing of the body is regarded as a charm. Endeavoring to
ridicule an individual, once, for the extent to which he had car-
ried this operation, he gravely assured me that it rendered him
invulnerable. Pulling out my knife, and offering to test the asser-
tion, he instantly declined, affirming that if he were a good man,
such would indeed be the effect, but that he was not a good man !

Many of the people, especially among the Karens, Toungthoos,
&c., worship Nats, which have been mentioned as inhabiting the
six lower heavens, and are supposed to possess great power in
human affairs. In honor of these, little huts, resembling a com-
mon dog-house, are erected on a post ; and on another, of the same
height in front, is fastened a flat board, on which the offerings are
placed. Images of Nats are offen seen among collections of
idols, in the capacity of attendants. They bear a human form,
and are portrayed as being very elegantly dressed. Such figures
firequently ornament the base of the flag-staff's, and sacred umbrel-
las erected near pagodas. I never saw any, however, in or near
the little huts erected for their worship. Feasts are often made to
them, to avert calamity, or to be healed from sickness. On these

ESLieiOK. S5D

occasions, every member of the family, &r and near, assemUe ;
and if any be absent, the service is considered nullified.

This worship of Nats forms no part of Boodhism, and is in ftct
discountenanced as heterodox. It seems to be a relic of the an-
cient polytheism, which prevailed in the country before its pres-
ent religion was introduced.

The Burman term applied to a priest is Ponrgyee, or Bon-ghee ;
literally "great exemplar," or, "great glory." The Pali term
Rahan^ or " holy man," is seldom used. The Siamese name is
P^kra-song. Some authors speak of the priests as Telapoins ; but
the term is never used by Burmans or Siamese. It seems to have
been given to the priests by the French and Portuguese, perhaps
from the custom of carrying, over their shaven heads, the large
fan made of Tal-apot leaf

Pongyees are not a caste, or hereditary race ; nor, as has been
remarked, is there any such thing as caste in Burmah. Any one
may become a priest, and any priest may return to secular life, at
pleasure. Thousands do, in fact, thus return every year, without
the least reproach. The &r greater number enter with the
avowed purpose of remaining only a few months, or years, for the
acquisition of learning and merit Indeed, the majority of re-
spectable young men enter the novitiate for a season, not only to
complete their education, but because the doing so is considered
both respectable and meritorious. The more acute and energetic
reenter society, and, as the phrase is, " become men again." The
dull, the indolent, and those who become fond of religious and
literary pursuits, remain.

When a youth assumes the yellow robe, it is an occasion of
considerable ceremony, of neighborly festivity, and of emolument
to the monastery.* The candidate, richly clad, is led forth, on a
horse handsomely caparisoned, attended by a train of friends and
relations, and passes in pomp through the principal streets. Be-
fore him go women bearing on their heads his future robes of
profession, and the customary utensils of a priest, with rice, fruit,
cloth, china cups, &c., intended as presents to the kyoung, and
its superior.

This splendor of array bears a striking similarity to the dis-
play of dress, &c., made by a nun when about to renounce the
world. Henceforth, at least while he remains a priest, the youth
is no more to wear ornaments, ride on horseback, or even carry an

* He who incurs the expense on this occasion, is said to have made a priest,
and becomes a Thengan-taga or Pon-gyee-taga. See page 249.

nmbralbL Tbe candidate ia also made
to his belief motirea, dec, and to take upoD hinwetf certain ro«t
PriealB are not only to observe all rules binding on coaau»
people, but many more. Tliey are bound to celibacy and cli»
ti^ ; and if mairied before their initiBtion, tbe bond ia diaBidnd
They must not bo much as touch a woman, or even a femab^
bat, or any female animaL They must never sleep mtder th
MUDS roo^ or travel in tlte same carnage^ or boat, with a woibh^
or touch any thing which a woman baa worn. If • priest om
mother fall into llie H'ater, or into a pit, be must not help her tut
except no one else 1b nigb, and then fae must only reach her ■
rtick or a rope. They are not to recognize any relations, llwy
must not have, or even touch, money; nor eat after the now
tiftheday; nor diinkwitboutstrainingthe water; nor build a fin
in any new place, lest gome insect be killed]
nor spit in water, or on gissa, lest some cieatute
be defiled by eatiag. They must not danctj
sing, or play upon musical instruments, nor
Btaud in conspicuous placea, nor wear their
hatr long, or any ornaments, nor have a turban,
umbrella, or sfaoea ; and their raiment must be
made of tagB and fragments gathered in tbe
streets. As the burning' aun makes some shel-
ter absolute ly Decessary tbraBhom, untiu-baned
head, they are allowed to carry tbeir huge &n
~ ir this purpose, as shown in the cut They
muEt hold no secular oflice, nor interfere in
the least with governmenL Beclusion, pover-
ty, contemplation, and indifference to all worldly good or evil,
are henceforth to distinguish tliem.

In eating, H priest must inwardly say, "I eat tliis rice, not to
please my pelale, but to support life." In dressing himself, he
mustsay, "Iput on these robes, not to be vain of tliem, but to con-
ceal my nakedness." And in taking medicine,he must say, "I de-
sire recover}' from this indieposiilon, only that I may be more
diligent in devotion and virtuous pursuits."

All this strictness, though required in the sacred books, ie by
no means exemplified in the conduct of the priests. They wear
aandale, carry umbrellas, live luxuriously, and handle money.
They not only wear tbe finest and beat cotton cloth, but some of
them the most excellent silks. Tbey, however, preserve a shadow
of obedience, by having the cloth first cut into pieces, and then
neatly sewed together. Tbey even look at women without much

fLEi.iaior>.

I^llmive. The huge tko, peculiar to prieeta, is intended partly to
I pereot the necessity of their seeing women wlien preacbiu^
Ste, ; but the manner in which tliey are repreaentod iii nativa
lectures, OS looking over Ihein, is not more amu^ng than true.

Their dresa covers much tnoi-e of the person tlian that of the
lai^; indeed, it vails them completely trom neck to anlilc^s. ]t
consista of two cloUis, one put on so as to form a petticoat, and
fistened witli a girdle, tJic oilier llirown gracefully over tb^
eboulders uid round tiie neuk. The rule ia to keep the Lead
shaved entirely ; but some pennit it to grow an inch oi two. J
fbimd the rule in Siani was to shave tlie head ttvice u month}
and probably the same prevails in Buriiiah. Yellow is appro-
priated as the color for tlie dress of liie priesthood, and it (vould
be deemed nothing less tiian sacrilege in any one eUe to use it;
Eo peculiarly sacred is it held, that it is not uncommon to see one
of the people pay liis devotions in due form to tlie old garment
of a priest, hung on a bush to dry, after t>eing washed.

KyoungB are found in all cities and villages, and otlen ill very
email hamlets. As a partial compliance to the law, which forbids
them to be erected in such places, they are generally placed at
the oulsktrts. They are enclosed within an ample space, gener-
ally set out with fruit and shade treea. The ground is kept clear
of graee or weeds, in proportion to the strictness of the eoperiw,
The kyoungs ai* always vastly better built than the dwellings of
even the ricliesl among the laity ; and near the metropolis niany
of them aro truly grand. With few exceptioue they are built in
the same manner as good dwelling-houses, only decorated with
carved work, and having masuve steps of brick and mortar leading
up to them. The distinctive mailt between common and re-
ligious or royal residences, is always observed, viz. the stages
or bipB in the roo£ The number of these breaks depends on the
beauty, size, and sacredness of the structure. Tlie apartments
are all on one floor, and often rendered truly imposing by the
heightand decoratioDS of the roof^ I have been in some monas-
teries of great size, which were solidly gilded, within and witliout,
from top to bottom.

As to the morality of the priesthood, my information is too
vague and contradictory to allow me to venture an opinion.
Perhaps, however, this contradictoriness arose irom a real diversity
in the characters of the priests, whom my different informers had
known. It Is certain that, if they choose to transgress, they may
do so with little danger of detection, by assuming the turban and
robe of the luty. They cannot be distinguished by their shorn

heads, u that k a rign of fanmaiation pnodMd >r all iA» gi

into mouniing fi>r nla^oDA. SometiinN htU dw voaauni^
adopt thia rign at lbs dealh of aome vraj great nan or maah*
of the lay^ fiunUy.

Such aa their liter a t nr e ia, it ia ehieflf eonftaed to die paW-
boocL Few odwra can ao much aa imi, wUmut faMttatio^ a
book they never aaw befere ; atill leea andenlaiMl SM eonliA
The tbousanda wlio "fioiah Aeir ednoation" hi the miaiaalMl^
fhrniah but few ezceptiona to this remaik The nation hia »
quired the character of a reading people " from the ftet Atf
Dearlf all mate* do learn to read in the kTOOng. But itiaaatti
bulk of tbe Jews read Hebrew, or ignorant Chtholie jviaata ml
Latin, without onderwiiding anj thmg thej real

Tiieir office mt^ he called a rinecura. Few of tham pwatti
and thoie but eeldom, and only on ipedal teqoeat; afterwii*
dooationa of clothing, && are ah<^ made to AeiiL On diMa
occariona, thongh ontj' one pnoMt,
there are generaOy aereral jmaHt-
Thej ait croaa-legged, in a nw, on a
raised aeat, and each bolda up beCM
him hia fin to prevent (Uatraction tf'
loirfdtig on the aodience, and eapeda^
to avoid gazing at tbe women, tit
exact idea amy be gained from tbe pic-
ture. In pnblic worahip, as has alnedf
been remarked, they hare no aervices (a
perform. At flmerals, they attend oalf
when desired, and after renting Ike
prayere retire, with liberal gifta borne on the ahouldera of bap.
Marriage being utterly unholy, they have no aervtoea to rendv
there* Part of them, in most kyounge, spend a portion of emy
day in teaching the novitiates, and whatever boya may come la
learn. Deeming it wbolly unprofeaeional to do any kind of wwfc,
roost of them spend their time in aheer iiilenese. During tlNir
aeason of Inil,aB it has been called, the |irinci|n] prieata, eajiedaltf
Borae few of great reputation, are almost every day called n
preach at some bouse. liberal gifts are alwaya exgmcted at dM
close of each service.
It is the rule that each priest penmhulate the atreeta emrj

* It wsa MMUM limB berore the Cfariiliaa coDverU could be recoueUcd U Ifr.
Judaon's peribm

moraing, till he receive tuiled rice, &c. enough for the day.
From the dawn of day till an hour ofler aUDrise, they are seen
passiiig to and fro, in groups and singly, cunjiiig on their arm
the Tkabike, which ia ol\eu Busluined by a euap iiassiug over the
shoulder. They walk ou bnekly, wittiout looking lo the right or
le^ stopping when sny one coines out with a gift, and passing
on without the least token of thanks, or even Jooking at tiie giver.
The Thubike is a black earttieu pot, containing about a peck,
with a lid of tin or lackered ware, wliick is made to iic when
inverted, so as to hold little cups of curry, luoat, or fruits. The
more dignified priesiBomil the morning peniinbulation, and cither
depend on a nbore ol' wliat tlielr juniors receive, or have tbeir
own uervBiits, and supply their private table from the buzar, and
from offerings wiiich are brought them by the devout. Except
in times of scarcity, the daily supply is superahundout, and the
surplus is given to day scholars, poor peraous, and adliereute,
who perform various services round the monastery. Theae re-
tainers are very convenient lo the priet^tfi in many ways. They
receive money, which the priests may not openly touch ; go to
market for such little luxuries as may be wanted ; sell Ibe mi-
perahundant gitU of clothing, mate, boxes, betel-nut, &c. Some
of the priests are known to have thus become rich. Father
Sangermano, wlio spent many years among them, declares that
tbej make do scruple of receiving even large sums, and that
" they are insatiable after riches, and do Utile else than ask for
them." * Sometimes enormous swine are kept under the mon-
asteries ; for what purpose I could never leam, except that it is
meritorious to feed dumb animals.

The daily gift of food to priests is supposed to be entirely
voluntary, and doubtless 'generally is so. But 1 have often seen
them make a full stop before a bouse, and wait for some time.
A gift is generally brought at length ; but if not, the priest moves
on without remark. Ttiia certainly omounla to a demand. If
any family is noticed constantly to neglect giving, complaint ia
lodged with the ruler, and fines are sure to follow. In some
parte of the country, the priest, as he goes his round, rings e little
bell, that all may know of his approach, and be ready. As the
tinte of going round is long before the common hour of breok-
&8t, families who intend to give to the priests rise before day to
cook the rice. They give but about a coffee-cup full to each, and

964 BUUEUL

stand before their door, dealing it out thus, till the quantky Ihiy
have prepared is gone. Tliey commonly add such frmts w M
in season ; with segars, betel, candles, and particulaiiy cun^ir
sauce, in small saucers.

The company of priests is very great, but I fbuiid few plmm
where tlie exact number was known. From the data I was till
to obtain, I think their proportion to the people is about as on
to thirty. In some places it is greater, in others less. Av% widi
a population of two hundred thousand, has twenty thousnd
priests. The province of Amherst, vnth thirty-six thousand souli^
has one tliousand and ten. Tavoy, with a populadon of Bin
thousand, has four hundred and fifty.

Beside the Ponghees, there are, at Ava, a conEndeiaMe munlNr
of Brahmins, who are highly respected. They hold die rank of
astrologers and astronomers to his mi^esty, in which they sre
supposed to be eminently skilled, and have conomitted to them
the regulation of the calendar. They are consulted on important
occasions, and give forth auguries, which are received with great
confidence. The ancestors of these Brahmins appear to have
come from Bengal, at no distant period. Occasionally, new ones
come still.

The priesthood is arranged into a regular hierarchy. The
highest functionary is the ThartJiena-byng'j or archbishop. He
resides at Ava, has jurisdiction over all priests, and appoints
the president of every monastery. He stands high at court, and
is considered one of the great men of the kingdom. Next to him
are the Ponghees, strictly so called, one of whom presides in each
monastery. Next are the Ch-pe-zinSj comprising those who
have passed the novitiate, sustained a regular examination, and
chosen the priesthood for life. Of this class are the teachers or
professors in the monasteries. One of these is generally vice-
president, and is most likely to succeed to the headship on the
demise of the Pongyee. Both these orders are sometimes caUed
Rahans, or Ydhans, They are considered to understand religion
BO well as to think for themselves, and expound the law out of
their own hearts, vrithout being obliged to foUow what they have
read in books. Next are the Ko-yertrgorldy, who have retired
fix>m the world, and wear the yellow cloth, but are not all seeking
to pass the examination, and become Oo-pe-zins. They have
entered for an education, or a livelihood, or to gain a divorce, or
for various objects ; and many of such return annually to sec-
ular life. Many of this class remain for life without rising in
grade.

■iaffB 4if iMm imbML if* tfaeit tdbBfii ■nirt xtHJiiroBnaitM faid

MiAfMik i imii i j ^pt ito touml ip «(Nid»et«d «|di popp And
aeeHMnf. ^Qw bod^, Mag Motoorole^y ai^
€Mi^ it ffiad ikU^ MMff aa^ mmAieA mmmf ic?l4» of wwifihiwi
elodi; ^Elie mriuie ig^ooatednxii^ baflMraxi MmU whielt cm^m
the ftce aiKi feet being so wroagbtm^ lemo}^ tibe decmm^^
13ieia ]Mrm 4M liiea >§id^ bodjiofbii lies inMNnto

enid fMipsi^fWBtne% dsp* : ''■ -^ . .

Woon^me, iiBiiil^««idliiBgre9ti^puttti^

aide ftr i^« < t m ct e d^iifcnost the eatiie pop«laee> Tl^bodylMd

beealjiDf itt statei under aa^omsmentil ttmopy^ fov «miil

nmitlM^enibad^Md Burmui ftshioo. Tbe fioe nod feet, wbepe

tlie wax piiBservfed tlie ofti^i^Md shsjpe^^^^

lygStaL ]^iieeai%iwlowiiiieeb»liadbe«iprepif^

ivero ilstai^Bd' Ipiif lopef 0^^^

tad. Tbey wese oDDstnietod ddefly ^ eane, aad not <»Ed]r hif^

in pretty good taste, but quite costly withal, in gold lea^ ewr

broidered muslin, &c &c.

When the set day arriyecl, the concourse assembled, filling not
only all the zayats, but all the groves, dressed iu their best clothes,
and full of festivity. Not a beggar, or ill-dressed person, was to
be seen. Almost every person, of both sexes, was dressed in silk ;
and many, especially children, had ornaments of gold or silver
in their ears and round their ankles and wrists. Not an instance
of drunkenness or quarrelling came under my eye, or, that I
could learn, occurred on either day. The body in its decorated
coffin was removed, amid an immense concourse, from its place
in the kyoung to one of the cars, with an excessive din of drums,
gmigs, cymbals, trumpets, and wailing of women. When it was
properly adjusted in its new location, a number of men mounted
the car at each end, and hundreds of people graced the ropes,
to draw it to the place of burning, half a mile distant But it had
not advanced many paces, before those behind drew it back.
Then came a prodigious struggle. The thousands in front ex-
erted all their strength to get it forward, and those behind with
VOL. I. 23

906 BUXMAH.

equal energy held it back. Now it would go ten or twdm
paces forward, then six or eight backward; one party pi
their great zeal to perform the Last honors for the
other declaring they could not part with the dear lemunsi
air was rent with the shouts of each party to encoiffagi!^:
side to exertion. The other cars of the procession were
back and forth in the same manner, but less vehemently,
frolic continued for a few hours, and the crowd dispersed,
the cars on the way. For several days, the populace
themselves in the same manner ; but I attended no more, till i
formed by tiie governor that at three o'clock that day the burn-
ing would certainly take place.

Repairing again to the spot, I found the advancing party U
of course succeeded. The empty cars were in an open field, wfafls
that which bore the body was in the place of burning, endond
by a light fence. The height was about thirty feet At an ele-
vation of fifteen or sixteen feet, it contained a sort of sepulchnl
monument, like the square tombs in our church-yards, highly or-
namented with Chinese paper, bits of various colored glass, ar-
ranged like flowers, and various mythological figures ; and filled
with combustibles. On this was the body of the priest. A long
spire, decorated to the utmost, and festooned with flowers, comple-
ted the structure. Soon after the appointed hour, a processkm of
priests approached, and took their seats on a platform within the
enclosure, while in another direction came ''the tree of life,"
borne on the shoulders of men, who reverently placed it near the
priests. It was ingeniously and tastefully constructed of fiiiits,
rice, boxes, cups, umbrellas, staffs, raiment, cooking utensils, and,
in short, an assortment of all the articles deemed useful and con-
venient in Burman house-keeping. Women followed, bearing on
their heads baskets of fi*uits and other articles. All these ofler-
ings, I was told, were primarily for the use of the deceased. But
as he only needed their spiritual essence, the gross and substan-
tial substances remained for the use of the neighboring mon-
astery.

The priests, with a small audience of elderly persons, now
mumbled over the appointed prayers, and, having performed some
tedious ceremonies, retired. Immediately sky-rockets and other
fireworks were lot off, at a little distance. From the place of the
pyrotechnics, long ropes extended to the funeral cars, to which
were fastened horizontal rockets bearing various pasteboard fig-
ures, as in the picture. Presently men with slow matches touched
ofl'one of these ; but it whizzed forward only a little way, and ex-

9
f

9
9

■

RELIGIOK. 209

pired. Another &iled in the same maDner, and shouts of derioon
rose from the crowd. The next rushed forward, and smashed a
portion of the car, which called forth strong applause. Another
and another dashed into the tottering fabric, while several men
were seen throwing fagots and gunpowder into it, till, finally, a
furious rocket entering the midst of the pile, the whole blazed
up, and the poor priest was exploded to heaven ! Fancy fire-
works concluded the ceremony, and the vast crowd dispersed.
In the background of the picture are hucksters vending firuits,
&C., and in the centre some musical bufibons.

The circmnstance that a great proportion of the males of the
country are for a time members of the priestliood, while it serves
to confirm and perpetuate the national faith, tends also to lower
the influence of the clergy. Political influence they have none,
and have never sought They are respected while they continue
to wear the yellow cloth, but on relinquishing it retain no more
consideration on that ground. Comparatively few remain per-
manently in the priesthood, and these not often tlie most intel-
lectual. Their literary pursuits (so called) have, of course, no
tendency to expand or elevate, being a tissue of fiibles and
extravagances ; but, these books ascribing high merit to seclusion
and contemplation, those who persist generally become calm,
quiet, and austere. They maintain respect, not by lordly as-
sumptions, but by a character for humility and piety. The
higher priests are seldom intolerant, except when they consider
their religion in danger, and are oflen men whom every one must
respect Foreigners generally receive at their hands kindness
and hospitality. The inferior priests and novitiates are oflen the
reverse of this in all things. Proud, empty, and presumptuous,
they claim honors from foreigners, which they cannot receive,
and display, in all then* ways, bigotry and folly.

Though no where required, or even authorized, by the Bedagat,

there are in many places bands of priestesses or nuns, called Ma-

thela-shen, or sometimes Ma-thao-datv, They are few in number,*

and regai'ded with but little veneration. Like priests, they may

return to common life at pleasure. Most of them are aged,

though some are young. The latter often avow their object to

he a better selection for a husband, through the conspicuity given

them by the oflice. In most cases of the old people, the profes-

Bion is regarded as little else than a pretext for begging. Unlike

priests in this respect, they are seen about the streets all day

• In Siam, still fewer. There are but a dozen or two in all Bankok.

23*

970 BURMAH.

long, often asking alms openly, and BometiDiMi clamoroialj.
They are known by dressing in white, which no other woom
do, and having their head shaved. They dwells apart from boo*
ety, near the kyoungs, into which they have free accesei^ and
where they perform various menial services.

Both priests and nuns are under the control of a civil offioo^
called Kyoungsaraif or clerk of the monasteries, who derives Mi
appointment from the Tha-thena-byng, but is considered a eroin
officer. He keeps a register of all kyoungs and their lands, in-
quires into all disputes among the priests, or between them and
the citizens, and in general v^atches over the outward demeanor
of the clergy.

Though remarkably united in their religious opinions, Bunnaiu
are not entirely accordant Sects have arisen, the chief of whidi
is that of the KoUms, who are said to be numerous and spreading^
Kolan was a reformer, who lived about fifty years ago, and
taught a semi-atheism, or the worship of Wisdom. Homage wn
to be paid to this, wherever found ; of eourse not a little was to
be rendered to himself Preachers and teachers of this sect, al-
ways from among the laity, frequently rise, and gain many fol-
lowers. Many of the nobles are said to be of this sentimeol
Most of this sect are near Ava, and in the towns on the Im-
waddy. They are called Paramats, from a word which signifies
♦* the good law." They discard the worship of images, and have
neither priests nor sacred books. Kolan took the Be-dam-ma, [the
first part of the Bedagat,) and, after revising it, adopted it as a
good creed; but it is not much copied among his followers.
Until lately, the Kolans have been greatly persecuted ; but at
present little notice is taken of them.

It has been observed by travellers that this people is remaika'
bly tolerant in religious matters. In a restricted sense, this is c^'
tainly irue. Foreigners of every description are allowed the full"
est exercise of their religion. They may build places of worship
of any kind, in any place, and have their public festivals and pro-
cessions, vri;hout molestation. But no nation could be moro
intolerant to their own people. No Burman may join any of
these religions under the severest penalties. Despotic as is tho
government, in nothing does it more thoroughly display that
despotism, than in its measures for suppressing all religious in-
novation, and supporting the established system. The whole
population is divided into allotments often families, under a petty
officer. Over every ten of these allotments is another officer, to
whom the others report These chiefs of a hundred femilies are

AsuaiOH. 901

ier die lup c i f kk in of a higber offieer, who lakM eognfanoe

«H eaiHMk Qn-fltated dayi^ eveiy chief of ten ftmiliee is nh

told to hriiig ftfth bis eompanj to the q[»poiiited ofaserfanoei.

e does not indeed notieeinereremiMBiefli; but if any penon be

■Mtualiy absent^ be must prodooe either a food reaeon or a

Ae» The wbole pofNilation ii thua held in chahiB, as iran-like

m eaate iteelf ; and to beeome a CSuiatiuk openly it to bawd

•Miy tbini^ even lilh*

• Li the Britiah prorineea^the nati<mal ftith, being robbed of the
—piml of the aecular arm, eeema to be dterisbed so much the
mote by national feeling; Ezpeclaney that the religion of the
new raleni may qpread, seems to awake greator vigibuice that
It may noC Figoda% kyoungs, and priests are well supported,
and the clergy seem anxious to propitiate popular isTor, to stand
them instead of government patronage. It is therefiae no easier
to distribute' trset% ot obtain an audience in Maiilmain, than in
Jlangoon or Ava, though schoohi are more easily estsbyshed*
Fetseentimi is shown in eveiy form, except offidaL Nei^
bofly acta are often refiised to Christitti% and in some cases, were
it not Ibr the mJaBJonary, the convert coidd scarcely escape abao-
httewant

REMARKS.

No false religion, ancient or modem, is comparable to this,
its philosophy is, indeed, not exceeded in folly by any other ; but
its doctrines and practical piety bear a strong resemblance to
those of holy Scripture. There is scarcely a principle or precept
in the Bedagat which is not found in the Bible. Did the people
but act up to its principles of peace and love, oppression and in-
jury would be known no more within their borders. Its deeds
of merit are in all cases either really beneficial to mankind, or
harmless. It has no mythology of obscene and ferocious deities ;
no sanguinary or impure observances; no self-inflicted tortures;
no tyrannizing priesthood ; no confounding of right and wrong,
by maldng certain iniquities laudable in worship. In its moral
code, its descriptions of the purity and peace of the first ages, of
the shortening of man's lifo because of his sins, &c., it seems to
have followed genuine traditions. In almost every respect, it
seems to be the best religion which man has ever invented.

272 BUBMAH.

At the same time, we must regard Boodhiam with imnwaBored
reprobation, if we compare it, not with other &lse religioiM^ bat
with truth. Its entire base is &lse.. It is built, not on love tn
God, nor even love to man, but on personal merit. It is a systoi
of religion without a God. It is literally atheism. Instead oft
Heavenly Father, forgiving sin, and filial service from a pure Imh^
as the efiect of love, it presents nothing to love, for its Deit^ii
dead; nothing as the ultimate object of action but self; ud
nothing for man's highest and holiest ambition but annihilation.

The system of merit corrupts and perverts to evil, the veiypie-
cepts whose prototypes are found in the Bible ; and causes an in*
jurious effect on the heart, from the veiy duties which have t
salutary effect on society. Thus, to say nothing of its doctiiiM
of eternal transmigration, and of uncontrollable frite, we may see^
in this single doctrine of merit, the utter destruction of all excel-
lence. It leaves no place for holiness ; for every thing is done for
the single purpose of obtaining advantage.

Sympathy, tenderness, and all benevolence, would become ex-
tinct under such a system, had not Jehovah planted their rudi-
ments in the human constitution. If his neighbor's boat be upset,
or his house on fire, why should the Boodhist assist ? He sup-
poses such events to be the unavoidable consequences of demerit
in a former existence ; and, if this suffering be averted, there must
be another of equal magnitude. He even fears that by his inter-
fering to prevent or assuage his neighbor's calamity, he is resist-
ing established fate, and brmging evil on his own head!

The same doctrine of merit destroys gratitude, either to God
or man. If he is well of^ it is because he deserves to be. If you
do him a kindness, he cannot be persuaded that you have any
other object or reason than to get merit ; and feels that he com-
pensates your generosity by furnishing the occasion. If the
kindness be uncommon, he always suspects you of sinister designs
In asking a favor, at least of an equal, he does it peremptorily}
and often haughtily, on the presumption that you will embrace
the opportunity of getting merit ; and, when his request is grant-
ed, retires Mrithout the slightest expression of gratitude. In fact,
as has been already stated, there is no phrase in his language that
corresponds with oiur "I thank you."

The doctrine of fate is maintained with the obstinacy and de-*
votedness of a Turk. While it accounts to them for every event,
it creates doggeduess under misfortune, and makes forethought
useles&

373

rBoodbiam allows evil to be balanced with good, by a scale
wbicti reducea sio to the Ebadow of a trifle. To ebeeko to a pa-
goda, or offer a flower lo llie idol, or Iced ihe priestB, or sot a pot
of cool wuler by the way-side, is supposed to cuncel a niullituda
of BinsL Tbe building of a kyoung, or pagoda, will outweigh
enormous crimes, auil secure prosperity for ages lo come. Vice
b thus robbed of its terrors ; for it crux be orerbaluncod by easy
TirCuea. LislnJices are not rare of roblrery, and even murder,
being coinmiiied, to obtain the meoiia of buying merit. All the
terrors, therefore, with which bell is repieaeuted, do but eerre to
GKclte to the observasce of frivoluue rites. The making of an
idol, an oSering, or soniu such act, is substiluled for repentance
lad reparation, for all iuward eKcellence, an<l every oulwdrd

ll ininifltcrs also to the most extravagant pride. The Boodhial
prcsumcH that incalculable merit, in previous iocnrtiaiions, ha»,
been gained, to give liini the honor of now wearing human na-
ture Ho considers bia condition ^r superior to that of the in-
kUCantB of the other islands in this system, and his chance of
emltatiou to l>e of the most animating character. Conceit, there-
im, betrays itself in all his ways. The lowest man in society
(tnies himself like the "twice bora" brahmin of Hiadustan.

We need not multiply these remarks. It is enough to mov»
«ir sympathy lo know that this religion, however superior to any
o&er invenled by man, has no power lo save. Though we have
» Wining accounts lo preaent of infanta destroyed, or widows
burned, or parents smothered io sacred mud, it is enough that
HBfart ptrishittg in tknr mta. It matters tittle wliether a soul
paid into eternity from beneath the wheels of Juggernaut, or
tata amid a circle of weeping friends. The awful scene is be-
yimd! May tlie favored ones of our happy land bo induced to
diacbBTge their duty lo these benighted millions.

f i

I ';

■ r

■i
*

IKim frinted tracts

estates 3rHfWtiC ^ft», ^ cstitir irfar ft^un ^arfin; J|?r- r

MMf alUe wik a 6tr aiUlkmf t aHm r mhcm t nirKgnm ^Ttj^uam

Ilersiam. ,

Jn M c,

fed p jsoSsc&xjNiiboSji^s ts^ d5;M$^a

Thmu/ ,

^UamMT m Xamttft iMttrs ,

Hawiulhan Ima, an mamilior ag;ot hihonte

Suunetf, w

^ ^ rnanajciiBaDB^^iia^^nDma:

I 4^ I 'v' Jrmttutut,

^ . •t^^'y ^^-i^ roo-c. -cp-^ ^^*>

* /■<» **• /w/f/ trani
tiff to bottmn

CfUi^iiiu M in ii/iifi^ fui ^ (nil's iisr) 3i ^

TRAVELS

SOUTH-EASTERN ASIA,

BMBEAOIirO

BINDnSTAN. HALATA, SIAM, AND CHINA;

WITH iroTtoM or

NUMEROUS MISSIONARY STATIONS,

ARB A nnub AooouHT or

THE BURMAN EMPIRE;

wim

DISSERTATIONS, TABLES,

STO.

BY HOWARD MALCOM.

** Homo fum ; humani nihil a me alienam puto." TsiBirci.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOIi. II.

BOSTON:
GOULD, KENDALL, AND LINCOLN.

BOLD BT BOOKSELLERS OENERALLT THR0UGH0X7T THE

UNITED STATES.

1839.

Entered according to Act of Ck>ngre88, in the year 1839,

Bt Gould, Ksndall, and LiircoLir,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Massaehosetts.

STEREOTYPED AT THE
BOSTON TYPE AND STEREOTTFE FOUNDRY.

CONTENTS.

PART III.

TRAVELS IN HINDUSTAN, MALATA,

SIAM, AND CHINA.

CHAPTER I.

Voyage to Calcot^ — Sangor Jidand — Hooglf Rhrer — Ijindiiif —
Hoiues — Semnts -^ Streets -^ Weddii^ -*> Dooifa Poqja —
General AMemUj's Sehool — Beneroleiit Inatitiition — Orphan
Refuge ^Central Sehool^The Martinien -* Leper Hoipttal—
Operatiomi of Education Committee — CoUefet-^ftogieaa of the
English Language — Use of Roman Alphahet— Native F^iiodioals

— Hindu and Mahometan Edifices — Ram Mohnn Roy -^ Bromha
Sobha — Population of Cahmtta — Expenses of UTiag — Habita of
ExtraTagance^- Morals — Religkm — Clergy— Plaees of Worship
— Bfissionary Operations— Christian Villages— Hindnismsbakiii

— Serampore; Aspect; Population; Marshman; OoU^ge; Gfvf»-
Yard. Operations of the Bfission • • ....tp. 7

CHAPTER n.

Madras — Catamarans — Difficulty of Landing— Black Town— Es-
planade — Population — Illostrations of Scripture — State of Reli-
gion — Catholics — Teloogoos — Travelling by Palankeen — Pon-
dicherry — Cuddalore — Tranquebar — Combaconum — Tanjore —
Kohlhoff — Swartz — Trichinopoly — Heber — Seringham — Sla-
very in Hindustan — Idolatry supported by Government — Brah-
mins and Brahminism — Progressive Poverty of the Country.. p. 48

CHAPTER III.

Voyage to Singapore — Coasters — Prices of Passage in India —
Straits of Malacca — Harbor and Town of Singapore — Climate —
Productions — Commerce — Islamism — Population — Moral Char-
acter of Population — Orang Louts — Chinese Wedding — Mission-
ary Operations — Malacca — History of the Settlement — Extent—
Population — Progress of Christianity — Anglo-Chinese College —

4 coNTsnrs.

Common Schools — Malay Peninsula — Origin of Bfalaj Race —
Divisions — Keda — Perak — Salengore — Johore — Rombo — Ft*
hang ^- Tringano — Calantan — Patani — Ligore — Character of
Malays — Slavery — Language p. 81

CHAPTER IV.

Take Leave of British India — European Manners — Voyage to Bis-
kok — River Meinam — Paknam — Audience with the Governor—
Situation of Bankok — Floating Houses — General Appearance —
Visit to the Pra Klang ; Servile Forms of Politeness — Chow Fah;
Singular Custom — Pra Nai Wai — Pra Amramole — Present of an
Elephant; Of a Cochin-Chinese Slave — Population of Bankok—
Police of the City ^- Climate — Wats — Houses — Streets — Bridget

— Somona Codom — History of Siam ^- Extent of the Empire —
Population — Personal Appearance of Siamese — Dress — Amuse-
ments — Military Force — Commerce — Prices of Provision —
Fruits — Currency — Character — Degree of Civilization — Slaveiy

— Language — Establishment of the Mission — Mission Premises —
Worship — Converts — Bankok a Station for the Chinese — Dis-
tribution of Scriptures — Need of more Laborers — Constitution of
a Church — Harmony of Sects — Roman Catholics p. Ill

CHAPTER V.

Voyage to Canton — China Sea — Mouth of Pearl River — Outside
Pilots — Lintin — Bocca-tigris — Whampoa — Innumerable Boats —
Evidences of dense Population — Dollar-Boat — River Scenery —
Population of Canton — Foreign Factories or Hongs — Walks in
the Suburbs — Streets — Shops — Vacant Spaces — Placards —
Perambulatory Trades — Booksellers — Circulating Libraries —
Map of the World — Beggars — Small-footed Women — Trades —
Labor-saving Machinery — Chinese Piety — Tombs — Visit to a
Hong Merchant — Restrictions on Foreigners — Temples — Priests
and Nuns — Pagodas — Chinese Sects — Introduction of Boodhism

— Jos — State of Morals in the Foreign Society — Opium Trade —
Missionaries — Dr. Parker's Hospital — Macao — Appearance from
Harbor — In a State of Decline — Missionaries — Mr. Gutzlaff —
Voyages along the Coast — Interesting School — How far China
is open to Missionaries — Dr. Colledge's Hospital p. 141

CHAPTER VI.

Embark for Home — Straits of Caspar and Sunda — Petty Monsoon —
Cape of Good Hope — Remarkable Phenomenon — St. Helena ^-
False Alarm — Slave Trade — Landing at Newport — Summary —
Reflections p. 167

COllTKIfTf.

PART IV.

DISSERTATIONS, TABLES, &c.

CHAPTER I.

Missions to the Chinese. — Stations now occupied — Sudiya —
Mogoung — Bamoo — Umerapoora — Zemmai — Pontiana — Sam*
bas Banca — Other Bodies of Chinese — Versions of the Holj
Scriptures — Proportion of Chinese who can read ^ The Impor-
tance of distributing Tracts and Bibles overrated — Comparison of
the Modes of Printing — Difficulty of the Language — Diction-
aries, Grammars, &c. — Present Missionaries to the Chinese —
Other Sinologues — Number of Converts ^- Best Authors on
China p. 175

CHAPTER H.

The Missionary Field in and around Burmah. — Burmah Proper

— Peguans — Tenasserim Provinces — Arracanese — Karens —
Shyans — Toungthoos — Tswahs, &c p. 191

CHAPTER HI.

On the Measure of Success which has attended modern Mis-
sions. — Introduction. — I. The Number of Missionaries. — II. The
Kind of Labor performed : Preparatory ; Collateral ; Additional j
Erroneous. — III. Disadvantages of Modern Missionaries : Imper-
fect Knowledge of the Language ; Poverty of the Languages them-
selves ; Want of Familiarity with the Religion and People ; De-
graded State of the Natives ; Inability to live as they live ; Being
Foreigners ; The Structure of Society ; The prevailing Philosophy ;
The Presence of nominal Christians ; Popery. — IV. Efforts which
do not reach the Field. — V. The Amount accomplished ; A large
Force in the Field ; Impediments removed ; Translations made ;
Languages reduced to Writing ; General Literature imparted ;

— Tracts written; Grammars, Dictionaries, and other Helps pre-
pared ; Immense Distribution of Bibles and Tracts ; Mechanical
Facilities created ; Schools established, and Youth already educa-
ted ; Blessings of Christian Morality diffused ; Idolatry in some
Places shaken ; Effects on Europeans abroad ; Actual Conversions.

— VT. Effects on the Churches at Home — Remarks p. 217

1 *

CONTBRTl — IXXUfTRATIONS.

CHAPTER IV.

On THE Mode uf conducting modern Missions. — Schools— Truf'
lations and Tracts — Preaching in English — Periodicals — Use tf
the Roman Alphabet — Missionary Physicians ^- Unhecessaiy Dii>
play and Expense — Direct Preaching to Natives — Formation of
Regular Churches — Qualifications of Native Assistants — lostm*
tion in the English I^anguage — Intermission of Operations-
Division of Labor ^- Concentration ^- Choice of Fields — Be*
marks p. 219

Political Relations of the East India Compant.... S89

British Territorial Possessions ....291

Missionary Stations throughout the World 298

Glossary 297

Index 311

■A

1 =

ILLUSTRATIONS

Page.

Bheestic 14

Hindu Woman • 15

Wedding Procession 15

Bengal Washerman 16

Mode of Churning.. 47

Hindu Gentleman's Carriage . .50

Palankeen Travelling 59

A Pecotta 62

Seringham Pagoda. 69

Brahmin 78

Nutmeg 87

Bankok Floating House 115

Pa|f'

Siam Lady sitting ,l\S

Woman and Child 126

Baptist Mission Premises

Bankok 134

Chinese Junk • .140

Boat 144

Tomb 152

Temple 154

Pagoda 156

Boodh 158

Shoe... 166

Karen Female 195

PART III.

TRAVELS IN HINDUSTAN, MALAYA,
SIAM, AND CHINA.

CHAPTER L

Voyage to Calcutta — Saugor Island — Hoogly River — Landing — Houses
— Servants — Streets — Wedding — Doorga Pooja — Genera] Assembly's
School — Benevolent Institution — Orphan Refuge — Central School —
The Martiniere— Leper Hospital — Operations of Education Committee
— Colleges •— Progress of the English Language — Use of Roman Alphas
bet — Native Periodicals — Hindu and Mahometan Edifices •— Ram Mohun
Roy — Bromha Sobha— Population of Calcutta •— Elzpenses of Living—
Habits of Extravagance — Morals — Religion — Clergy — Places of Wor-
ship — Missionary Operations — Christian Villages — Hmduism shaken —
Serampore — Aspect — Populatiou — Marshman — College— Grave-Yard
— Operations of the Mission.

A HOT and disagreeable passage of seventeen days from Ran-
goon, in a small schooner, brought me to Calcutta, September 20,
1836. The vessel, being loaded with timber and stick-lac, had
plenty of scorpions and centipedes. Twice, on taking a clean
shirt out of my trunk, 1 found a centipede snugly stowed in it
Having several times caught scorpions on my mattress at night,
we undertook a general search, and on the under side of the
cabin table, discovered a nest of twenty or thirty. I had written
here constantly for a week, with my knees pressed up hard
against the edge, to keep me steady, and felt truly thankful to
have been unmolested. Several of the females had white leathery
bags attached to them, about the size of a grape, full of young
ones, scarcely bigger than a pin's head.

Tlie constant increase of the sands at the mouth of the Hoogly,
and the absence of any landmark, renders the approach always

(

8 HUfDUBTAN.

a matter of some anxiety. The floating light is stationed out of
sight of land, and the tails of the reefi, eyen there, are dangerouii
When the shores are at length discerned, their dead level and
unbroken jungle, without any sign of population, and the greit
breadth of the river, gives the yfhoie an aspect ezceasiyely dreaiji
well suiting to one^s first emotions on beholding a land of idobtqf^

Sanger Island, which is first coasted, is fiuned fi>r being the
spot where many infants and others are annually inoimdatedi
The Hoogly, called by the natives B€^gir-€t4ee, being considered
the true mouth of the Ganges, and the junction of this saerad
stream with the ocean being at Saugor, great sanctity is attached
to the place. A few devotees are said to reside on the ishmd,
who contrive for a while to avoid the tigers, and are suppoited
by the gifls of the boatmen, who cherish great fidth in the aeeo-
rity they are supposed to be able to confer. An annual festival is
held here in January, which thousands of Hindus attend, some
even from five or six hundred miles. Missionaries often embrBce
this opportunity of preaching and distributing tracts. As a sam-
ple of these efforts, the follovnng extract fi^m the journal of the
late Mr. Chamberlain* will be interesting.

^Gunga Saugor. — Arrived here this morning. Astonished
beyond measure at the sight ! Boats crushed together, row upon
row, for a vast extent in length, numberless in appearance, and
people swarming everywhere! Multitudes! multitudes! Re-
moved from the boats, they had pitched on a large sand-bank
and in the jungle ; the oars of the boats being set up to support
the tents, shops, &c Words fail to give a true description of
this scene. Here an immensely populous city has been nosed
in a very few days, full of streets, lanes, bazars, &C., many
sorts of trade going on, with all the hurry and bustle of the most
flourishing city. We soon left the boats, and went among the
people. Here we saw tlie works of idolatry and blind supersti-
tion. Crowds upon crowds of infatuated men, women, and
children, high and low, young and old, rich and poor, bathing in
the water, and worshipping Gunga, by bowing and making salams,
and spreading their offerings of rice, flowers, &c on the shore,
for the goddess to take when the tides airive. The mud and
water of this place are esteemed very holy, and are taken

* The life of this brother, by the Rev. Mr. Yates, of Calcutta, is every way
worthy of perusal, and ou^ht to be reprinted in America. It is a large octavo,
and migfht be somewhat curtailed 3 but the abridgment, by the American Sab-
bath School Union, though suitable for their purpose, is too meagre for general
circulation.

RIVER HOOOLT. 9

hundreds of miles upon the shoulders of men. They sprinkle
themselves with the water, and dauh themselves with the mud;
and this, they say, cleanses them from all sin : this is very great
holiness. In former years, it was usual for many to give them-
s^es to the sharks and alligators, and thus to he destroyed.
But the Company have now placed sepoys along the side, to
prevent this. A European sergeant and fifly sepoys are here
now for that purpose."

The veneration paid hy Hindus to this river, is almost incredi-
hle. Descending from a height of fifteen thousand feet ahove the
level of the sea, and running a course of fifteen hundred miles, it
receives, in every part, the most devoted homage. The touch of
its water, nay, the very sight of it, say the Shasters, takes away
all sin. Its very sediment is counted a remedy for all diseases.
If it &ils, they are not undeceived; for they say the man's time
has come, and there is no remedy for death. Drowning in it is
an act of great merit Thousands of sick persons endure long
journeys, that they may die upon its banks. Its water is sworn
upon, in courts of justice, as the Bible is, m ours. From 50,000
to 200,000 persons assemble annually at certain places, of whom
many are crushed to death in pressing to bathe at the propitious
moment Still more die on the road, of poverty and fatigue. No
man, acquainted with the history of Hindustan, can sail upon
these bright, unconscious waters, without being filled with sor-
rowful contemplations.

That the scenery here has been described in such glowing
colore, can only be accounted for, by considering that the writers
had been for months immured in a ship, and that, having previ-
ously seen no country but their own, every thing foreign became
deeply interesting. The boats which come off, of strange con-
struction ; the " dandies," with their dark bronze skin, fine Roman
features, perfect teeth, and scanty costume ; the Sircars, which
board the ship with presents of fruit, dressed in gi*aceful folds
of snow-white muslin, — are indeed objects of interest, and form
fruitful topics for journals and letters, to young travellers. As to
the river itself, at least in the lower part of its course, none could
be more dull "and disagreeable.

As the ship ascends the river, (generally a slow and difficult
process,) objects of interest multiply. Fishermen's villages
and scattered huts appear on each side, imbosomed in stately
palms. Trees, of shapes unknown before, fields of sugar-cane,
wide levels of paddy ground, and a universal greenness, keep up
an interest, till, on reaching Gloucester, Eiu-opean houses begin to

10 BniDUBTAir*

be seen, and the ear once more catches the ■oundfl of madiiMy
and commerce. The cold emotions of wonder^ and the pain i
reflecting that one has arrived in the regions cHf degradation ni
idolatry, now give place to a sense of eadulazation and hnmnnwi
On every side ia evidence of the presence of those who ttad
with the highest among the civilized, the free, the scientific^ oi
the religious nations of the earth. Hope portrays the fitting
benevolence stands ready to act, and discouragement is cheeni
by assurance of cooperation.

At length, in passing a bend in the river, called ■'Gardoi
Reach," a superb array of country-seats opens on the easlea
bank. Luxury and refinement seem here tp have made thtir
home. Verdant and quiet lawns appear doubly attractive to a
voyager, weary of ocean and sky. Buildings, coated with phatHi
and combining Grecian chasteness vnth Oriental adaptatkMi, M
their white columns amid noble trees and numerous tuikii
Steamboats, budgerows, and dingeys, ply about upon the smooth
water. The lofty chimneys of gas-works and fiustories rise ia
the distance, and every thing bespeaks your apinxwch tot
great city.

We passed just at sunset The multiform vehicle^ for wfaicb
Calcutta is femous, stood before the doors, or rolled away throu^
the trees, followed by turbaned servants in flowing musliiii
Ladies and children, with nurses and bearers, lounged along the
smootli paths, and it was difficult to realize that this beautiful
climate should prove so insidious. The general observadoDi
however, is, that death owes more victims to, high living, indo*
lence, exposure at night, fotigue in shooting excursions, &C., thu
to the positive efiects of climate. Indeed, some affirm Lidia to
be as salubrious as England, and the aspect of some who hav6
been long in the country would seem to countenance the as-
sertion.

A farther advance brings an indistinct view of the fort and
the fine buildings of the Chouringy suburb, all presented in one
great curve, which is soon relinquished for a more minute and
inquisitive contemplation of << the course." This is a broad road
on the bank of the river, passing round the esplanade and fort,
to which the Ebiglish residents drive every evening at sunset
As every clerk in the city keeps his buggy or palankeen carriage^
the crowd of vehicles rivals that at Hyde Park. The sight is
even more imposing. Most of the higher classes use stately
landaus, or open barouches ; and the ladies are without bonnetSi
Crowds of gentlemen are on horseback. Indian side-ruunen

I RIVER UOOeLI. 11 I

& princely air to iho eiow procesaion. The Bliipping of

■ «»ry nation, the clear horizon, tJie noble tori, the cJIj front, Ibtt

■ pteDBure- bouts, the beautiful ghauts, &c^ moke it a scene trhloh
' tlwsye plenaes ; and llie citizens repair thither from day to day,

ud imm year to year, witiioul weariness or aalietj.

On passing Garden Reach, the river becomes covered witb
hnats, of every conceivuLile lonu, from wliich a dozen different
bi^agea meet the ear. A multitude of vessels lie at anchor; .
Heam-engines pour from their lowering chimneys Volumes of I
HDoke ; bcoutilid ghauts slope into the water; palankeens, ton-
jons, buggiee, coaches, piioetona, gores, caranches, and liackarie^ i
line the shore, and before us spreads out the great city, contain- |
Ing, with its suburbs, almost h million of souls.

All who die in or beside the river, and even those whose dead'
bodies arc coinniittud to it, being deemed certain of future hliss,
inuUitudes are hrought to die upon the hanks, or ere laid at
bw water on the mud, whence tlie return of the tide washes
them away. These and the bnlf^consumed relica from the fnuera]
pile, in every variety of revolting aspect, are continually float-

!hg hy. Government boats ply above the eity to sink tliese
bodies; but many escape, and we daily saw ihetn float by,
wbile vidtures stood upon them, contending for the horrid ban-
qaeL
There being no wharves or docks, you are rowed to a ghaiil <
In a dingey, and landed amid Hindus perfoming their obluliona
tnd reciting llicir prayers. No sooner does your boat touch tlio
'} ehorc, than a host of hearers contend for you with loud jabber,.
■nd those whom you resist least, actually bear you off in their
mm through the mud, and you find yourself at once in one of
dxKe strange cont'eyances, a palankeen. Awny you hie, flat on
^ur back, at the rate of nearly five miles an hour, a chatty Iny
bearing aloft a huge polin-leaf umbrella to keep off the sun,
iriiom no assurances that you do uot want him will drive away,
botwho expects only a pice or two for his pains. The bearers
grunt at every step, like southern negroes when cleaving wood;,
and though they do it as a sort of chorus, it keei>s your unaccus-
tomed feelings discomposed.

Arrived at the house, you find it secluded within a high brick
wall, and guarded at tJie gate by a dunvan, or porter, who lives
there in a lodge, less to prevent ingress, titan to see that servants
and others carry nothing awny improperly. The door is shel'
MWt by * porch, called here a vBiouda, ao cooBlniotisd aa to
AAaraniageB— a precaution equally nvxatBryfae the rain

13 BINDUBTAir

and the sud. The best houses are of two stories, the ufifMr
being occupied by the family, and the lower used ibr dining ani
store rooms. On every side are contrivances to mitigate heat and
exclude dust Venetian blinds enclose the veranda, extending
from pillar to pillar, as low as a man's head. The remaimqg
space is furnished with mats, (tatties,) which reach to the flooi
when the sun is on that side, but at other times are rolled vf»
When these are kept wet, they diffuse a most agreeable cooLuk

The moment you sit down, whether in a Doumsion, office, or
shop, a servant commences pulling the punka, under which yoi
may happen to be. The floor is of brick and mortar, covend
with mats, the walls of the purest white, and the ceilings of grwl
height Both sexes, and all orders, dress in white cottons, llw
rooms are kept dark, and in the hottest part of the day shut up
with glass. In short, every thing betrays a struggle to keep cool

Another great contest seems to be against ants. You peroein
various articles of furniture placed upon little dishes of water
or quick-lime, without which precaution every thing is ovemm.
White ants are most formidable; for fit)m those it is impoi-
sible wholly to guard. They attack every thing, even the beami
in the houses. A chest of clothes, lying on the floor a day or
two only, may be found entirely ruined. A mere pinhole appean
in your precious quarto — you open it, and behold a mass of durt
and fragments !

The number of servants, and their snowy drapery, huge tor-
bans, stubby mustachios, bare feet, and cringing servility, form
another feature in the novel scene. Partly from the influence
of caste, but more from indolent habits, low pay, and the indul-
gence of former masters, when fortunes were easily made, they
are appointed ta services so minutely divided as to render a greet
number necessary. The following list, given me by a lady long
in India, not only illustrates this peculiarity, but shows how larg9
opportunities private Christians possess of doing good to natives
even beneath their own roof. A genteel family, not weahby,
must have the following domestics: —

K&nsuma — a head servant, butler, or steward ; KU-mnd^gir
— table-servant; Musalche — cleans knives, washes plates, and
carries the lantern; Bdhagee — cook; Surdar — head bearer,
cleans furniture, &c.; Bearer — cleans shoes, and does com-
mon errands, (if a palankeen is kept, there must be at least
eight of these,) pulls punka; Abdar — cools and takes care of
water; Meeta — man sweeper; Meirdne — female sweeper;
•%CE^ — lady's maid, or nurse ; Dvrw&n — gate-keeper ; MoiHof ^

)r; Dirgiy — tailor; Doheg — \raalieni
f^coochrnan; Sgu — groom, odb to every he
IkM with him; Gragi-cutkr — culs uod bringi
nach liorse ; Giiy icaUa — keeper of the co*r '
^■-^ errand boy or messenger) Streor — accoi
^^Ckuprmit — carries letters, and does tlie
^fc; Cfioludar — watRfamaii; Cooley — cornea
Pfele marketing, &c. ; Bhealk — to tincg water.
'Raids, table-servaots, nurses, &c., there of couree
toreraf. It is generally necessary to have pan of
ftins, and part Hindus ; for one will not bring eome a ^m

fte table, and the other will not touch a c"-" *

fliUd makes a litter on the floor, the syal:
nib the metraiie.

A walk into tlie native town, produces nov'
Me. The houses, for the moHt part, are mere
kioiB and mud walls, scarcely high enough t>> c
flvcred wiih thatch. The streets are narrow, eri ■— ■

lirly ; and on every neglecled wall, cow dung, mixed witn el
ud kneaded into thin cokee, is stuck up to dry lor fuel.
hope are often but six or eight feet square, and seldom '
foB eize, wholly open in front, without any counter, but the
u the floor, port of which is occupied by ifie vender, sJRii^
ross-lcggeil, diid tlio rest serves to exhibit his goods. Mechanics
are a similar arrangement

Barbers sit in the open street on a mat, aod the patient, squat-
Dg on his hams, has not only his beard, but part of bis bead,
MTed, leaving the hair to grow only on hie crown. Id the tanks
id ponds are dobies slapping their clothes with all their might
pon a l>ench or a stone. Little brarainy bulls, vritb (heir
imiped shoulders, walk among the crowd, thrusting their noses
to the baskets of rice, gram, or peas, with little resistance.
Kept they slay to repeat the mouthful.* Bullocks, loaded with
mniers, pass slowly by. Palankeens come bustling along, the
Mrers shouting at the people to clear the way. Fedlers and
leketers utter their ceaseless cries. Religious mendicanta, with
ng htur matted with c«w dung, and with laces and arms

■ These are iadividual} uimed loose when young, aa aflbriugfs to an idol,
Ueb are tbeaceronh ngaided as aaered. Tbough no one lonki after ibem,
A privileged mode of life keeps Ibem in good order; aod, mldiig ao miieh
Mog crowdi, from which Ihey meei do ill ireatmeut, makes ibem peilbclly

14 HUniDSTAll.

■meared with CiangeB mud, walk about almovt naked, iridi u
air of the utmost impudence and pride, demanding ntber tfau
begging gifts. Often thej canr a thick triangular plate of bn^
and, atriking it at interns with a heavy stick, send the ahriU
announcement of their approach &r and near. Noiff and dtea
comea niahing along the bug^ of mine Engliah merchant, v4M)n
syce, running before, drives the pedestriana out of the ynj; w
Bome villanous-looking caranche diagn 1^, shut up clooe mdi
red cloth, containing native ladies, who contrive thus to "tab
the air."

No Englishmen are seen on foot, except the rery poorast, m
it IB deemed ungenteel ; n«' netive women, except of the lowed
castes. Costumes and complexions, of every variety, move abant
without attracting attention — Hindus, Husaulmana, Arme-
nians, Greeks, Persians, Parseea, Arabs, Jews, Burmans, Cbiatm,
&c &c ; bheesties, with leather water-sacks, slung dripping m

their backs, csjtj their precious burden to the rich man's yard,
or hawk it alon^ the street, announcing their approach by
drumming on their brass measure. Snake-charmera, jugglery
and blind musicians, gather their little crowds. I^ocesekms
are almost always abroad in honor of some idol, or in fiilfil-
ment of some promise ; making all possible clamor with voices,
drums, cymbals, and trumpets. Women carry their children
astride on their hips. Wretched carriages, drawu by more
wretched ponies, jingle along, bearing those who have long
walks and moderate means. Women crowd about the wdtay
carrying water on their hips in brass jars. Children run about

: Hkod, or with & thin pUio of rihor or hnm, not krpr
k ta»«up, himg in fivnt I7 a oord round the hipK Mod-
bolea, neglected tuika, daoaying MV-
caasas, end Btegnent tUtcliea, unite wiA
fbmea id* garlic, laneid oil, and human
fittb, to load the eir with nlhooaa
■mellii. Ilia tmd autmth of K^Oa,
•Dunda, and amella, is ao uttei^ nnlikn
an J thing in any other part of Iha wori4
that weeks elapse before the seUMtion
of Btnngeneas wears bwkj.

Uj lendenoe with Hr. PeatM on
the dreular rood, which is a principal
thoroughiare, afibided cmitiniial opptit-
tuni^ of obeerring natire chaiactw sad
habitK A apectacle of frequem nefo-
renoe was tlie wedduig prpcoarino t£
young childran, affianced by their nltr-
tions. Huuc and many torches digniiy

The girt ;« nflaw r^rritui in a pakinfewin, Mid tint

sgroooi on hoiaeback, held l^a fiiend. Sometimea tba Sttia
js aie bonie in a bighly-nma roantad Utter, as in Iha ea^ur

. It is always affecting to think that if the poor little boy
his betrothed is condemned to perpetual widowhood. Many

ese, as might be expected, become abandoned characterB.
oe is conatantly struck with the eicessivo cruelty displayed

16 BitnitjaTAK.

toward oxeD and horans by the nativefi ; m> ■trongtjr eontnating
with the tenderoesB of Buniian drivers. The cattle are amilt
lean, and Ecarred all over with the brandH and &Dciiul figures rf
their owners. Poor in flesh, and weak, they ere urged witb i
large stick, and by twiating tlie tail, in the moat violent maDOO'.
The heavy blowa were continually sounding in my ears, aai,
with the creaking of the wheels, which are never greased, keep
up an odious din. The horses of their miaeiKble carancbea
fiire no better — the driver scarcely ever sufibring bis whip la

I saw many funerals, but none in which any solemoity or pomp
prevailed. The body, without a coffin, waa carried on its own
paltry bedstead by four men, coveredmerely with a aheet; afew
followers kept up a wailing recitative, and beat upon small nadn
drums. The body was thus conveyed to the place of huraing
or thrown into the Ganges.

Close to my residence was one of those numerous tanks la-
anrted to in this city, not only for drinking-water, but ablutiom
of all sorts. Every hour in the day some one was there batliiDg.
Those who came for water, would generally walk in, and W-
tlt^ their jar float awhile, bathe, and perhaps wash their cloih;
then filling tlieu: vesael, bear it awoy with dripping clotbea.
Some dobeys, or waahermen, resorted thither, whose seven
process fully accounted for the fringes constantly made on th*
edges of my clothes. Without aoap or fire, they depend on mere
labor } standing knee deep in the water, and ^thering the end

of a garment in their hand, they whirl it over their head, and
bring it down with great foree upon a atone or Inclined plank,
occasionally shaking it in the water. They spread out tlie aiti-
cles on the hot sand, and a powerful sun enables them to present
clothes of snowy whiteness.

CALCUTTA. 17

My stay in the city included several annual festivals, of which

one was the Door-ga Poo-ja, which commenced on the fifteenth

of October, and lasted till the nineteenth. The whole population

unites in this celebration, and the government offices are closed.

It is in honor of BhagablLtee, wife of Seeb, who is called Doorga,

from her having destroyed a dreadful giant of that name, who

lad subdued most of the gods.

The first day is spent in waking up Doorga, and other gods,

who are supposed to have slept since the festival of Shayan

Ekadashee. The second day, vows are made, and ofierings of

water, flowers, sweetmeats, &c., are presented. The third day

is occupied with ceremonies to bring the soul of Doorga

into the image. To efiect this, the priest repeats prayers, offers

incantations, and touches the eyes, cheeks, nose, breast, &c., of

the image with his finger. The image now becomes an object

of worship, and crowds ofier it divine honors, presenting at the

same time large quantities of fruits, clothing, and food ; which,

of course, are perquisites to the Brahmins. The fourth day

streams with the blood of animal sacrifices. The worshippers

dance before the idol, smeared with gore ; drums beat ; and

shouts rend the air. The heads only of the victims are ofiered,

die worshippers eating the carcasses, and rioting in strong drink.

Such Hindus as worship Vishnu, not being permitted to shed

blood, ofier pumpkins, melons, sugar-cane, &c., which are cut in

two with the sacrificial knife, that the juice may flow forth.

I All these days, the image is kept in the house, and the services

\ performed in interior courts, so that the streets show little con-

j fusion or stir. The evenings ai'e occupied with songs and

dancing, often of an indecent character.
! The last and great day brings the goddess abroad, can*ied in
triumph upon the shoulders of men, to be thrown into the river.
Crowds follow with shouts ; bands of music accompany each
group; and towards sundown the streets are literally full of these
processions. I rode to the margin of the river, at that time, to
witness this part of the festival ; and during tlie stay of a single
hour, scores of images were thrown in at that place. Above
and below, the same scenes were enacted.

These exhibitions not only present Doorga, but several other
images, often as large as life, very handsomely moulded, of wax,
clay, or paper. Under an ornamented canopy stands the god-
dess, sti'etching out her ten ai*ms, each of which has an occupa-
tion. One transfixes with a spear the giant Mahisha; others
hold implements of war, flowers, sceptres, &c. Beneath her

18 «w9«nm»

featki a limit tearing the nid giant; aad.on aaaih aida 4VB^|pr
aons, KarHk and ChmedL The wkole la bora^ 09 9^ fivnui fl
bier, requiring twen^ or tiur^ bearera. Ifta. groep ia fgrni^
rally got up with much skiU, and no little mnanpeyit aome ^
which IS really tutefiil and ooatj^* Ynjt npjBft fift ^ipw^ i|

twenty or thirty diouaand rupeea! AWmI tw a iy n^iyMPNl
ftmily makea one of theae olgeets,aBd la?Miia|i en itijriniiphwllii
expense. The oflbrings, the music, iJm Aai^ aiid atiU mflff^ lt»
gifts to Brahminsi make up a heavy cost I ^wdd ni^ Ull
observing, that the men emfdoyed to cast tbe fttodo inljs 4l
river, no sooner got a litde way fhmi Ihe shoR^ in titie boaS^ 4ai

they began to riiSe the goddess of her mndinB^piiimBS^ and gSW
ornaments, so that often nothing but a mere wrfck waa tivomt
overboard.

Calcutta being the ibcua of religioaa mti^ifenoe fixr afl 4^
Elast, and the seat of numerous missionaiy qpawtJont^ 1 was iflt
sorry that no vessel oflfored finr my next poirt of dsstinatjoa^lg
two months. It gave me an opportunity of visiting dM ehsdiirf
Ue, literaiy, and religious institndons; attending the vsnov
churches, and several anniverssries ; mingling with miniiiM'^
society, committees, and conferences ; and gathering- no BBil
amount of information from the beet source 1 shall, h o wsft
only note here such as will interest the general readfuv

One of my first visits was to the school of the Scottish GeDflvd
Assembly, founded by Rev. Mr. Duf^ and now under the csiie of
Rev. Messrs. Mackay and Ewart It occupies a large brick baUr
ing, enclosing a quadrangular court, formerly the residence of •
wealthy Baboo, and standing in the midst of the native towBi*
It has existed about six years, and now numbcars about six hiBir
dred and thirty-four pupils ; bojrs, mostly under fourteen yesfpit
They are all Bengalees and Hindus^ generally of the higjba^
castes, and many of them Brahmins* Many have, been in thu
school from the commencement They purchase their own
school-books, and receive no support from the school ; but As
tuition is gratis. There are five ushers, besides twelve or fifteen
of the more advanced scholars, who act as assistant teachen*
The instruction is wholly in the English language. 1 examined
several classes in ancient and modem liistory, mathematiei^
astronomy, and Christianity ; and have never met dassea dMnr-

* A new building, capable of accommodaUng 1000 pupib, has sace
erected on Cornwaliis. Square.

CALCUTTA. |9

a more thorough knowledge of the books they had studied
ly all of the two upper classes are convinced of the truth <^
gos]>el, and went over the leading evidences in a manner
I am sure, few professors of religion in our country can da
six or seven pupils have given evidence of a work of grace
in. their heart; a few of which have made a profession of
Beligkm.

A few weeks after, I hdd the pleasure of attending the public
mnnal examination of this school, held in the town hail, a truly
BoUe building. I never witnessed a better examination. The
pupils were often led away from the direct subject, by gentlemen
present, and in every case showed a good insight into the subject
they had studied. Several excellent essays were read in 'Eng'
Ush, wholly composed by the scholars, two of which were of
special cleverness ; one in favor of caste, the other against it
The former received some tokens of applause from the Euro-
peans, fer the talent it displayed ; but not a native clapped. On
the conclusion of that against caste, the whole mass of pupils
burst out into thundering applause ! This incident is worthy of
note, as showing the waning influence of Brahma.

The Benevolent Institution, instituted thirty years ago by the
Serampore Missionaries, has continued without interruption;
imparting the English language and English literature, on the
Lancasterian plan, to an average of three hundred pupils. Sev-
eral times that number have left the school with more or less
education, many of whom are now honorably employed as
teachers, writers, and clerks. There are now a hundred and
eighty in the boys', and thiiiy in the girls' department. The es-
tablishment of other schools has diminished its number. It
was intended entirely for the benefit of the children of nominal
Christians, chiefly Catholic, who were growing up in ignorance
and vice ; but some pagan youth are now admitted. The Rev.
Mr. Penny has devoted himself to this service for many years ;
and recently his salary has been paid by government. The boys
live with their parents, and receive no support from the school.

The Boarding and Day Schools at Chitpore, one of the north-
em suburbs of Calcutta, were established by the Baptist mission-
aries, in 1829. They are under the care of Rev. J-. D. Ellis, and
contained boys and girls, till the latter were removed to Seebpore.
The boarding school is for the children of native Christians,
and contains forty-five interesting boys, none under seven years.
They are entirely supported, at an average expense of al>out four
rupees a month ; including food, clothes, books, salai'ies of as-

20 HINDUBTAV.

sistant teachers, building, medicine, &c. Nine of the boys hue
become pious, and been received into the church, and tfaiN
others are to be baptized soon.

The day school, on separate premises, is for heathen hapi
and contains three hundred pupils, from eight to eighteen yeiii
of age. They study the English language, and all the brancbfll
of a good high schooL They jirovide their own books $ai
stationery, so that the salaries of the native ushers, amounting in
the aggregate to seventy-five rupees a month, and the rent of the
buildings, constitute all the expense. This school Is decidedly
the best I found in Calcutta, excepting, perhaps^ that of the Gen-
eral Assembly just mentioned, to which it is not inferior. The
arrangement of the school-house and grounds, the general gor-
erument, the deportment of the pupils, and the degrees of
proficiency, are most satis&ctory. None have become open
Christians ; but most of the senior boys theoretically reject idola-
try, and declare oui-s to be the only true faith. I waa astonished
at the readiness with which they went over the evidences of
Cliristianity, from miracles, prophecy, history, internal structure,
&c. 1 started many of the plausible objections of heathen and
infidels, and found they had truly mastered both the text-boob
and the subject

Bishop's College, founded by Bp. Middleton, stands a few milefl
below Calcutta, on the River Hoogly. The college edifice is of
great size, and substantially built, in the Gothic style, and the
professors' houses, pleasure-grounds, &C., are every way suitable.
A distinguished civilian politely took me there in his carriage,
and the president kindly showed us every part The fine lihraiy)
beautiful chapel, and admirable arrangements, with the hi^
character of the instructors, seem to invite students ; but there
have as yet been never more than ten or twelve at a time. This
is possibly owing in part to the exclusively Episcopal character
of the college. The salary of the principal is one thousand
pounds per annum, and of the second teacher, seven hundred
pounds.

The Indian Female Orphan Refuge, and Central School, were
founded by Mrs. Wilson, (then Miss Cook,) about twelve years
ago. The two departments under the above names occupied
the same building, till the present season, when the Refuge was
removed to new and more suitable premises, six miles north of
the city. The increased and improved accommodations will
enable this excellent lady to enhance the value of her admirable
charity. Here native orphans, and other destitute or abandoned

duldren, are received ai qdj age, however young, and remain
till marriageable, aujiporled in o]l reepecls. A considemblA
number of tlieiii were redeemed from actual starvation, during
the dreadful desolation of a hurrieane on the Hoogly River,
a few years since. All are taught to read and speak Engtisb,
beeide the elementary studies and needle-work. Tliey ore
found to be acute, and generally leaiTi to read and understand
the New Testament in one year. Some six or eight ore MusBul-
man children ; the rest are Hindus, who, of course, lose whatever
caste tliey muy have; though Ihis now, in Calcutta, is productira
of compamllvely little inconvenienco to the poor. The preeeirt
number in the Refuge is one hundred and eight, and the wholft
cost per annum, fbr each child, is found to be about twenty-fivK
nipees. Mi's. Wilson (now a widow) resides in tlie institutioi^

ti Dd devotes herself moat stead&stly to tlie arduous work. Po»-
HB^ng the unlimited confidence of the philouthropista of Cal-
cmta, ehe hoe been able to meet the e.Tpenses of her new and
fflensive buildings, and is not likely to want funds for sustaining
dm school.

The Central School has, on an average, two hundred and fifty
girls, who attend in the day-time only, and receive no support.
The first impressions, on entering the vast room where ibey are
taught, are very touching. Seated on mats, in groups of eight
V ten, around the sides of the room, are tliirty classes ; each
ivilli a native teacher in the midst. The thin cotton shawls,
covering not only the whole person, but the head, are lent them
every morning to wear in school, and kept beautifully white. In
Ifaeir noses or ears hang rings of large diameter ; and many of
them had the liltle spot at the root of the nose,* indicative of
the god they serve, tattooed. Some had on the amis or ankles
Wmerous bracelets or batig'es, of ivory, wood, or silver ; and
many wore rings on the toea ; all acconling to die immemoriBl
BMge of Bengalee women.

All were intent on their lessons; and when it was considered
that those lessons eomprised the blessed truths of revelation, the
Bwne cootd not but affect a Christian's heart with gratitude and
hope. Two pious ladies devote tlieinselves to tlie management

rrihly, Ihs ex-

This

ca<Iom of in

tikii

S Ihe fordiMd

JIusIro

Irion

fDeui. uiii.

spot JU9I BbD

emotoflhenoso — J-

may

be. Some ha

perpe

» I'uiej

; >onie a hor

al line, or Wo,

orlhre

till bo

01 a profession

iu<raliii,Biidope

ly»nn

93 BIHBU8TAV.

of this school, and attend all day. A native preacher condndf
daily worship, and preaches once a week. The native womof^
being paid one pice per day for each scholar, are thus induce^
though heathen, to exert themselves to keep their classes full

The two institutions last named show what may be done lij
ladiea What abundant opportunities are presented, in sevenl
parts of the world, for them to come forth, and be co-workers ni
the missionary enterprise !

The Martiuiere, founded by a munificent legacy of Genenl
Martin, was opened Marcli, 1835, and has already eighty pufH^
of which fifty are wholly su])ported. It is intended solely fixr the
children of Europeans, and lias a principal and two professon
The building, which cost 200,000 rupees, is truly noble, and
stands on the southern edge of the city, amid extensive grounds.
Many more pupils can be accommodated ; and there is no doubt
the number will soon be full. The children are not required to be
orphans, or ver>' poor, but are admitted fi*om that class of society
which, though respectable, find it impossible to give their children
a good education, and are glad to be relieved fix>m their support

The Leper Hospital, founded by tlie exertions of Dr. Carey, is
located on tlie road to Barrackpore, a litde north of the city.
Instead of a large building, it is an enclosed village, with neat
grounds and out-houses. Any lepers may resort there, and re-
ceive maintenance in full, with such medical treatment as the
case may encourage. It generally contains several hundred ; but
many prefer to subsist by begging in the streets.

Beside these institutions, there are several others, such as
orphan asylums, a floating chapel, &c., of a character similar to
those of our own coimtry, and which therefore do not need any
description.

In 1813, parliament required the East India Company to devote
£10,000, or a lac of rupees, annually, for the education and im-
provement of the natives ; but nothing was done for fifteen or
sixteen years. The funds, with other appropriations, which had
accumulated to nearly 300,000 rupees per annum, were then
placed under the control of a " Committee of Education," who
proceeded to work in earnest. The Hindu, Maliometan, and
Simscrit Colleges in Calcutta, were taken under the patronage
of the committee, and schools and colleges at Benares, Delhi,
Hoogly, Agra, Moorshedabad, Bangulpore, Saugor, Maulmain,
and Allahabad, were soon founded. In 1835, a new impulse and
direction was given to these operations, and there were estab-
lished the Medical College of Calcutta, and schools at Fooree,

i, Itecca, Pstnn, Uhszepor^, oijcl MeniL Tfie fiJhAAn^

iirse of being cslabl'islied — ilnjshnlit, JuliUultMt^-' .
khimgabad, FurriK^kabnd, Gareilly, aud Ajincre. Tho *Mlf>
']>u{iil£ at present is three tliousan<l iliroe hundrad l^lft
lit,* of wlioiTi one thuuBuiil eight Iiiiiidred and idiMW-
rudy English, two Imndred and niglitnen Arabic, four InttMl''
Bniy-three Sunscrit, and thrt'e hundred and e
Most of tlio rest otb courinod to Ifio local ^
e students, one thousand eight hundred and eighty-OM Itili
i five hujiilrcd and winetj'-Bix Mussulmans, Beyentj-«U*B»
d tiie rest are Bormann, Chinese, &c. A suiiiiuMf'
Tof tlioHH in Calcutta will give a general idea of the nwlto. "''
The Hindu College, (called by Hindus the Fidyai:wa,] iivu lk '
lished in ISlli, by wealthy natives, contains four hufidtM-ifcil'
fifty pupils. About sixty are on scholarships ; the rest pa^ SMlb
five to seven rupees per month (or tuition. It has i
meut9 ; one for imparting edoration in English, ei
lirerature, open to all classes and raetes; the other for the u)M~^'
cation of Suuscril literature, and open only to persona of HUt-
Brahminicsl order, who are not adinitied under twelve yecni of
Age. In the English department, instruction ia given in iwiJM|fc'
writing, arithmetic, compositioD, mathcmnticB, history, bSKiMF
philosophy, geography, &c. The institute has a valuable IthHiQP
in English, ivhicb serves to give eflicncy nnd cx[Kinaion to
the system of instruction. The Act that natlTes are willing tO'
pa; 80 much for ttiition, and support themselves, shows the pm-
TBiliag anxiety to acquire our language. Scholars are received!
into the English department aa young as six years:

The Sunscrit College has ^lout one hundred and thirtj'firo'
pupile; part of whom study "English, with the other branches.
They are instructed in Hindu literature, law, and theology. Tip
fiwnesB of Bcholors seeking instruction in this worthless stuff Is
a good sign. Even of these, fifty-seven are paid monthly stl-
pends of from sis to eight rupees. The rest are not charged for
tuition. The term of attendance is twelve years ; viz. three fiir
grammar, two for general literature, one for rhetoric, one fbr
logic, one for theology, one for mathematics, and three fbr latr.
All the forms and distinctions of caste are observed st this

The Mahometan College (generally called the MrAttm).

24 HINDUSTAN.

is for the iDstriiction of that class of Datives in their own
literature and faith. Formerly, the students were allowed sti-
pends of seven or eight rupees per month ; but, as those who
hold tliese fall off, they are not renewed to others, so that the
number is annually diminishing. It has two departments. Orien-
tal and English ; the former containing ninety-one students, and
the latter one hundred and tliirty. The studies are reading,
writing, spelling, grammar, aritlunetic, geography, history, natural
philosopiiy, and the Mahometan laws and religion.

The Hoogly (or Mahomet Mulisui's) College, situated about
twenty-iive miles above Calcutta, has grown out of the Hoogly
School, which flourished several years, teaching chiefly the Eng-
lish language, to a1)out one hundred and thirty pupils. Large en-
dowments from the above-named Baboo have lately become
available, and yield an annual revenue of no less than a lac of
rupees. It was re-opened on an enlarged system in August,
1836, and already enrols more than fifteen hundred students,
who have entered the western department; that is, to pros-
ecute English and English Uterature exclusively; and three
hundred who have entered the Oriental department About one
hundred of the latter study English in connection with Elastern
languages, and two hundred study Arabic and Persian exclu-
sively.

The Medical College was instituted by a general order of the
supreme government, ui which it was directed that the Native
Medical Institution, then existing under Dr. Tytler, and the med'
leal clashes at the Sunscrit and Mahometan Colleges, should be
abolished, and a new institution formed. Medical science is here
on the most enlightened principles, and in the English langyagC'
Instruction commenced June, 1835, with forty-nine students, se^
lected from numerous applicants. All were required to be able
to speak, read, and write English with ease and accuracy. The
institution is a great favorite with Britons in Calcutta, and
promises very important benefits to Bengal, beside raising up
suitable doctors for the native regiments. None but native stu«
dents are admitted ; but these may be of any creed or caste ; and
for fifty of them, a competent support is provided. They are re-
ceived between the ages of fourteen and twenty, and such as are
allowed stipends are required to remain five or six years.

For each of these Institutions a good English library and phil-
osophical apparatus have been ordered from London, toward
which object a wealthy Baboo has given twenty thousand rupees.
Persons of all ages, religious opinions, and castes, are admitted as

pupils ID all tlie goverumeiil iiistiiuiioiia (Except ilu- Hindu, Mit-
hometan, and Sunacril Colleges bl Culcmitu, and llie SutiBcril
College at BeDoreB. The eflpcl of these hist-iintnud iustiiiiUoiiB
is tegnrded by many ae wholly iRudlug lo support ihc onliotiol
BysleniE of religioti mid IUi?rtituro, and, therefore, bo far as tha
eternal well-being of tlio pupils is concerned, decidedly in-
jurious.

TLe circunistunci^a of the country nioke these colleges, not
nhal a cursory reader would infer trom the name, but Khooisj
or, al tiie best, acudemii^E. Etiucation Los not long enough pre-
railed to have produced a raee of young men prepared by el&-
meatary studies to pursue ilie liigher branches. Tlie pupils of
these " colleges" are taught to read, write, and cijilicr, as well aft
grammar, geogrB]>hy, logic, nialhemalics, &c^ from the nidi-
men Is upward.

Uatil 1833, tlie policy of the committee whs to encourage tbe-
Etudy of Persian, Sunscrit, and Arabic lilerature, as the best
TneanB of elevating the general intelligence of the natives.
Hence the endowment of schools and colleges, expressly Ibr
ibese studies, and paying the students liberal monthly atipend&
A great number were thus induced to study iheee dead language^
who felt no interest in them, and made no valuable proficiency..
Wliile modem science was enlightening all Europe, tliese stu-
dents were learning Ptolemy's astronomy, Ari^lolle's philosophy,
and Calpn'jj iiiedicHl hijiiiiiiii's, and rtiKtiiig the filmikiiisrly laa-
drious Blories of the Mricchakata, and the Nol Damaysnti.
Bishop Heber esamined some of these students at Benaresi, and
nys,* "The astronomical lecturer produced a terrestrial globe, di-
vided according to their ^atem, and elevated to the meridian of
Benares. Mount Meru be identified with the north piole, and
under the south pole he supposed the tortoise 'Cbukwa' to
Aand ; on which the earth rests. He then showed me how tba
tua went round the earth once in every day, and how, by a dif-
ferent motion, he visited the signs of the zodiac" As Hhidu lit-
erature has been highly extolled hy some, I will add a specimen'
fit>m Ram Mohun Roy's account of iL f "' Shad signifies to bM ^
Khaduii, he, she, or it eats: query, does KhBduti,as a whole, con-
vey the meaning he, she, or it eats, or are separate parts of this
meaning conveyed by distinctions of the word P ' As i( in the
English language, it were asked. How much meaning is there in

■ Travels in India.

t Latter lo Lord Amberet, Qovemor-geDiral of India.
TOL.ll. 3

96 HINDUSTAN.

the eatj and how much in the a ? And is the whole meaning
conveyed by these two poi-tions of the word distinctly, or by
them taken jointly?^' ^In medicine and chemistry they are
just sufficiently advanced to talk of substances being moist, dry?
iiot, &c., in the third or (ourth degree ; to dissuade from phys*
icking, or letting blood, on a Tuesday, or under a particular as-
pect of the heavens ; and to be eager in the pursuit of the phi-
losopher's stone, and the elixir of immortality." *

The Rev. Mr. Wilson, in a sermon on behalf of the Scotch
Missionary Society, and dedicated to the Right Hon. Sir Robert
Grant, governor of Bombay, preached in Bombay, Novemben
1835, touches this matter briefly ; and I quote some of his remarks,
because of the high authority on which they come. Speaking
of the appropriation of the lac of rupees, he remarks, <* We, the
representatives of the British nation in India, instead of applying
this grant wholly to the diffusion of a knowledge of the literature
and science of the West, as, we must suppose, was intended
employed most of it in the support of colleges ^fbr teaching pen-
tioned students the elements of the Sunscrit and Arabic lan-
guages, and inculcating through them the immoral precepts of
the Vedas and Purannas, the aphorisms of cb*eamy and obsolete
legislators, and the prescriptions of quack doctors and alche-
mists; or in printing Oriental books to fill the shelves of the
learned and curious, but ilhberal and unphilanthropic confederacy,
of English and French antiquarians."

This policy of the committee led also to the expenditure of
enormous sums in procuring translations of elevated scientific
works into those languages, and printing original Arabic, Persian,
and Sunscrit works hitherto unknown to Europe. Of the books
printed by the committee up to 1832, there were of Sunscrit thir-
teen thousand volumes, of Arabic five thousand, Persian two thou-
sand five hundred, Hindu two thousand. A large proportion of
these are quarto volumes, of seven hundred to eight hundred pages,
and printed in editions of five hundred copies. Of course, were
they ever so valuable, they could not be generally dififused over
an empire of two millions of inhabitants. Not a single work was
printed in the prevailing and spoken languages of India ! The
books thus brought forth as treasures of Oriental literature, were
indeed such to some philologists of Europe ; but false philosophy,
fiibulous histories, and impure romances, could do no good to
Hindus, even supposing the mass of the people could have
read them.

* Heber.

CAXCUTTA. 37

The policy of the committee, as at present constituted, is^
to cultiyate Western, rather than Eastern literature, and to diffuse
modem science and arts, hy extending a knowledge of the Eng-
lish language, and by multiplying valuable works in the vulgar
tongues. In accomplishing this important change, perhaps no
mim has been more insti-umental than C. E. Trevelyan, E^q., of
the Bengal civil service, to whom India is, in many other respects,
greatly indebted.

The stipends which were paid to pupils in the Arabic, Sun-
Borit, and Persian languages, are now refused to new applicants,
knd expire as vacancies occur. This change not only adds to
the available flinds of the committee, but leaves the dead lan-
guages to be cuhivated, just so far as their intrinsic worth shall
induce the native. In all the new institutions, pupils are ad-
mitted without distinction of caste.

The prospect now is, that English, vnth its vftst stores of
knowledge, in every department, will become the classical lan-
guage of the country.* The holders of oflSce, and influential
natives generally, of the next generation, vnll be enlightened
beyond what could have ever been hoped for, under the old
system. Some of those who give themselves to literary pur-
suits, will no doubt acquire such a mastery of certain sciences,
as to become able to bring forth works of great utility in their
mother tongue. By such works, and not by translations made
by foreigners, light may spread to all the people, and tliis vast
continent be brought forth into a worthy place among the
nations.

Missionaries long since saw this subject as the education com-
mittee now see it, and thousands of natives, in Calcutta alone,
have been taught in their schools to read English. There are
probably now in tliat city not less than four thousand youths
receiving an English education. In the Hindu College, estab-
lished in 1816, and conducted wholly with reference to English,
there are four hundred and seven students, of which three

* When we consider the vast spread of the British empire in India, the dif-
fusion of the Eng-lish language over the whole continent of North America,
and many of the West hidia islands, the establishment of British laws and
language in all South Africa and Australia, and the growing colonies on the
west coEist of Africa, it is not unreasonable to anticipate the prevalence of our
language, at no distant day, among millions in all quarters of the globe.

28 HIlfDUSTAN.

hundred and fifly-six pay from five to seven rupees a month
ifor tuition, while the Sunscrit College, where fiffy-aevoi
students receive a stipend of from six to eight rupees per month,
and the rest are taught gratuitously, there are but one hundred
and thirty-five pupils. In the Arabic College are two hundred
students, one hundred and tUirty-four of whom study Fingliah,
and most of the remainder receive stipends. The Hoogly Gd-
lege has grown out of the Hoogly School, in which the Eng-
lish language was always a primary object Having received
endowments from a native gentleman, yielding annually 100,000
rupees, it has recently been thrown open to receive more pupils;
and already fifteen hundi ed students have entered the ^ western
department, ^ that is, to study English, and English literature
exclusively. About three hundred have entered to study Eng-
lish, in connection with Oriental literature ; and two hundred to
study Arabic and Persian exclusively.

A further evidence of the present demand for English, is seen
in the operations of the Calcutta School-book Society. This in-
stitution prints elementary books, in all the languages required
by schools in the presidency, at the cheapest possible rate ; and
from its depository, most schools are supplied, in whole or in
part The following summary of sales is from the last annual
report, viz. : —

English 31,649 books.

Anglo- Asiatic (i. e. in the Roman Character). 4,525 **

Bengalee 5,754 «

Hindui. 4,171 «

Hindustani 3,384 «

Persian 1,454 «

Oriya 834 «

Arabic 36 «

Sunscrit 16 "

With this impulse in favor of the English language, and
European literature, has sprung up, chiefly through the same
instrumentality, another, equally strong, in favor of using the
Roman letters for Indian languages. 1 regard this as scarcely
less important than the other, and have briefly handled the point
in some remarks on <<The mode of conducting missions,"
m Part IV.

ThtttiiecdenmibK^iocietjare not stagnant in CSdoutta, and
tfiat Hglit is breaking in upon the public mmdy is erineed, amoof '
other proofii^ by the fveaent state of the nadve newapi^MBr prow.
Vtaneriy tbBre ihCB na eadt thing in the city; now there are
AJien <Mr eight Among them are «The Durpin,^ pubUshed in
Bengalee and EngHshy by nominal Ohristiansybot somewhat neu*
tar; the «€9imidrika,* strongly in ftror of tibe entire idoktroua
ayatem ; die * Gowmoodee,'* temperate and oonc]ljatoiy,and rejeot-
ii^ the grosser Ifindu superstitions, but decidedly polytheistic
Tte ''Reftmner,'* in the English language entirely, and the first
newspaper condtaeted in ESngtish by nati?es, advocates the Ye-
daht system, but is temperate. The ^ Inqinrer," also in the Eng-
fish language^ is die organ of the education party amcmg the
nativea. The ** Gyananeshnn," ^olly in die Bengal language,
resolutely attadu the Brahnunlcal order, and aU the monstrous
rites and ceremonies of the Hindus. There is another, pub-
lished in the Persian language, which is conducted with consid-
erable talent, but duefly occupied with matter not generally
interesting to ffindus or Ehigltsh. All these are in addition to
die Tarious newspapers, journals, and other periodicals published
by Britons, of which diere are not few, and several of them
decidedly pure and religious in their character. For English
readers there are seveml newspapers and magazines, and two
medical journals. The Asiatic Society, founded in 1784, con-
tuiues its elevated career, and annually renders important contri-
butions to general, as well as Oriental science and literature.
The Calcutta Christian Observer is an admirable monthly, sus-
tained by all persuasions, and replete with information, not only
on missionary, but scientific and literary subjects.

The Hindu and Mussulman religious edifices in Calcutta are
few and mean ; strongly coutrastiog with those in some other
parts of the country, and with the stupendous pagodas and
splendid zayats of the Burmans. The mosques resemble Orien-
tal mausoleums, seldom larger than a native's hut, and often not
bigger than a dog-house. The dome is almost always semi-
spherical, and generally the plaster, which covers the brick walls,
is wrought into minute ornaments, of Arabesque tracery ; not al-
ways tasteful, or even chaste. Tombs, both for Europeans and
rich natives, are often so built, that natives might dwell in them
very comfortably, and remind one of some passages in Scripture,
where lunatics and others are said to live in tombs. They re-
semble handsome summer-houses, and afford all the shelter a
Hindu desires, and much more than he often enjoys.

so HINDUSTAN.

The conspicuousness of the late Ram Mohun Roy, and the
eclat given for a time to the reformation, which he was supposed
to be effecting, called me to his meeting with feelings of no
ordinary interest The Rev. Mr. Lacroiz, to whom the langaage
is perfectly familiar, kindly took me to the Bromha Sobha^ as the
congregation is called, and interpreted for me the substance of
the various exercises. We found the place to be a commodioaf
hall, in a respectable Hindu dwelling-house. There was no idol,
or idolatrous representation, of any kind. On a small stage,
raised about eighteen inches from the floor, handsomely car-
peted, sat cross-legged two respectable-looking pundits. One
side of the room was spread with clean cloths for the native
attendants, who sat after the manner of the country ; and on the
other were chairs for the accommodation of strangers. In the
centre, and opposite to the rostrum, lay some native musical
instruments, and a violin. The room was well lighted, and the
punkas of course waved overhead.

One of the pundits opened the services by reading Sunscrif^
firom a loose palm-leaf held in his hand, stopping at eveiy two
or three words, to expound and enforce. The subject was
knowledge — what it was, and what it waa not, &c. Abstract
ethical questions were discussed, not unlike the fashion of the
old scholastics; but no moral deductions were made, nor any
thing said to improve the hearers. The whole discourse must
have been unintelligible to most of them.

The other then read a discourse in Bengalee, consisting
chiefly of explanations of their religious system, and encomiums
on it He particularly dwelt on its liberality ; boasting that they
quarrelled with na name or persuasion ; and assuring us, that it
was of no consequence whether we worshipped idols, Mahomet,
Jesus Christ, or the Vu'gin Mary ; that it was not possible to
come to any certain knowledge respecting religious things^ '•luid
that if any man believed his way to be right, that way was right for
him. These discourses extended to about an hour ; and the rest
of the time, about another hour, was occupied with music At
the close of the preaching, professed musicians advanced to the
instruments, and, seating themselves on the mats, put them in
tune, with the usual amount of discord. Two of them then
sang several hymns, with instruments accompanying it The
themes were the unity of the Divine Essence, and the various attri-
butes of majesty and power. No one joined the strain, nor were
there any books to enable them to do so. Nothing could be
less reverent or devotional, than the manner of the musicians.

They looked about them with all possible self-complacenoj',
making Luimeaning gestures, bowing and blinking to each othec,
and vociferating with sur^h a nasal twang, that it was a ro-
lief when they had finished. I thought it was literally
such music as the poet spcaka of— intended " to soothe eavogs
breasts;" for certainly no other could well endiire it.

Ou their retiring, a very dilicreut singer took the place, and
proceeded for half nn hour with great power of execution, tmd
not a little taste. His voice was unconunonly fine. He accom-
panied himself skilfully on the native guitar. The violin htid
been well played from the beginning, and the music was now
truly excelleni, furnishing, I was infiinned, a fair specimen of the
hest Bengal art The singer, as well us the violinist, is distia-
giiiahed at the uautch ontertainmenta of the city. The Bubjed
was Blill the attributea of God. The Bengalee language has, R»
this purpose, a noble advantage over ours, in numerous expres^
sions derived from the Sunscrit, which utter in a liitgle wori
what may l>e called the negative attributes, and which wc cannot
express with brevity ; such aa, " He that needs no refiige ; " " Hs
tliat is never perpleied;" "He that can never grow weary;" &c.
The ainger used these epithets with great majesty; using ani-
mated gesturee, and with a countenance finely varying with tho
theme. At the close of this exercise, the assembly broke up.

No female was present, nor do any ever attend. Most of Ibe
congregation come in oaly in time to hear the music, and stood
□ear the staircase, not without disorder. The number of the
regular attendants was not over twenty. I am informed, thirty
is the largest number ever present. The spectators were some-
what more numerous.

Few of the professed adherents are so conjident of tlieir recti-
tude, as to detach themselves wholly from llie common religious
eoBtoins, though more negligent in these matters than their noigh-
bofB. The very pundits officiate, not because converts to tlieae
opinions, (for such they donotprofesa to be,)but because regularly
paidSiT their services. One of them, in his discourse this evening,
expressly told na that there was no impropriety in worshipping
idols — a doctrine which IL Roy would not admit. The mun-
cians also are paid, and perform here for the same I'caHons that
they do at a nautch, so that the whole concern is sustained hj
the money of a few friends, and descendants of R. Roy.

Such is the boasted reformation of Ram Moliun RoyI Not
another congregation of his followers is found in nil India! Of
his labors aa a reformer, this is tl)e sum ; — Fifty or a hiuidred

88 miousTAK.

persons rendered negligent of the natkma] religion, or gathefed
here because they were so before, without bemg a wfast the
better in their private life or public infloence; in scnene casii^
adding the sins of Europeans to those of their coiuitrynieili
without being disentangled from the horrid systemr of the Sfaa»>
ters ; without being ready, or without the moral courage, to rs-
Btore to tlieir own wives and daughters the rights of human
nature. With all the superiority to prejudice and castoni)
boasted by Ram Mohun Roy, he did nothing for the elevation of
the sex.

A striking instance of this occurred, not very Jong since, in
the case of D. T., one of his most intelligent foUowns.
This gentleman is a partner in a European house, in the halnt
of mixing with European gentlemen, and evidently much more
enlightened than most of his countrymen. Yet was he so
much under the influence of Hindu public opinion, as to marry
his daughter to a Ku-len Brahmin, for the purpose of elevating
the family above the reproach occasioned by one of his ances-
tors, with many others, having been compelled to eat bee^ by a
Mahometan enemy named Per AIL The young lady is well
educated, reads and writes English, and is remarkably intelligent
The Brahmin is as ignorant as the rest of his class, and will
probably marry others, as avarice or caprice may move him.
Brahmins of this caste may marry any number of wives, but are
not bound to live with them. They not unfrequently leave a wife
after a few weeks, and never see her again. She is thus doomed
to hopeless widowhood, merely to gratify the ambition of her
j&mily. Thus completely is Ram Mohun Roy's principal disciple
under the influence of a thraldom which that great man professed
to despise. A good school would have done more than all that
has been accomplished by the Bromha Sobha. We should ex-
pect pupils who had become so far released from Hindu preju-
dice, to advance to a complete emancipation. But this people
show no tendency to advance ; they have long stood still ; and
every thing alre€uiy wears an aspect of decrepitude and decay.
What a monument of the entire inefiicacy of unassisted reason, to
ameliorate the religious condition of any people ! Already may
the undertaking of this truly great man be pronounced a failure;
and soon all traces of it will be lost fix)m earth.

R. Roy established a weekly newspaper, called the Re-
former, which was intended chiefly to excite among those
Hindus who understand English, a desire for improvement in
their civil condition. It is yet continued, edited by an intelligent

native ; though incorporated now with a Calcutta paper, ao^
ducted by a European. It lias often coDCaioed well-wiitten
papers againat Churruck Pooja, Ku-len marriageB, und the other
abomi nations of tlie Hindu systein, and is, douhlless, as at presenl
conducted, a valuable journal.

R. Roy was not a Uuitariun Christian, but a Unitarian Hindu.
He believed that there was such a person as Jesus Christ, and
that he was the best moral teacher the world ever saw; but
regarded his death as having no efficacy of atonemeul. Hu
capacious mind, and extensive knowledge of the Siiasters, im-
pelled him to abhor the aboniiiiatiouB of the Veda, and the moiiT
EtTosities of its thirty-three millions of gods. But he found in
the Vedanta Sar (an exposition of tlie four Vedas) a sort of [7niA
I&rianiiin], which he endeavored on all occasions to diEseminatCb
The doctrine might as well be called pantheism; tor it mailh
tains the old Pythagorean doctrine, that God is the soul of the
world, und that every animal, plant, or etone, is therelbre part of
Deity. It makes perfect religion to consiet in knowledge alone,
or the realizing in every thing the Supreme Being; imd ex-
cludes ceremonies of all kiuds.

There was formerly a Uuitarian Christian congregation in
Calcutta, established under the care of Rev. W. Adams, (preTti
Dusly a missionary,) who met for a short time at a private house;
The first Sunday they had sijity or seventy persons present, ths
secotul l>l\v; and soon only five attended. Mr. Adams, thus dia-
concerted, became the editor of a paper, and iubeeqtiently ac-
eepted an appointment under government, to visit variouB parts
of India, and to report on the state of education in the interior.
In this last capacity, be has acqiured honorable distiDCliott, and
moeasing uaefiilness. His reports are exciting great attention,
■nd show not only tmwearied industry, but superior talents.

The population of Calcutta is ascertained, by a census just
taken, to be 2S!),000 within the ditch ; and 500,000 are supposed
to reside in the imtnediate suburbs. Within a circuit of twenty
■dies, the population is generally -set down at two milunu. Ot
Ae number within the city, about 130,000 are Hindus, SOfiOO
Hnsaulmans, 3000 English, and 3000 Portuguese, or Indo-BrlttHU ;
the rest are French, Chinese, Armenians, Jews, Moguls^ Paraee^
Anbe, Mugs, Madrasees, Slc. The whole niunber of houses is
66,000 ; of which nearly 15,000 are brick ; the rest are of mud or
oats. Officers stationed at Ibe principal avenues into th« city,

34 RINDU8TAK.

ibund that about 100,000 persons enter daily from the surromid-
ing villages ; chiefly sircars, clerks, servants, fhiiterers, &c.

The means now in operation, for the education and religiooi
instruction of this vast population, have in part been mentioned
That they are so great, is matter of devout thanksgiving and
encouragement; but their distressing inadequacy to the wants
of such a multitude is obvious.

Society in Calcutta, like that of other places, where a laifs
portion of the gentry live on stated salaries, has a tendency to
extravagance. Most fiimilies live fully up to their income, and
many, especially junior officers, go deeply in debt. The ex-
penses of living are, in their chief points, as jR>llow8 : — ServantB?
wages, from four to six rupees, without food or lodging ; rent of
a small, plain house, fifty to eighty rupees a month ; rice, three
and a half rupees a maund; fowls, two to three annas each;
ducks, five to six annas apiece ; washing, three rupees per hun-
dred pieces ; board and lodging of one person, per noonth, in a
plain way, fifty rupees.

A few years since, the state of morals was generally bad, both
in the city and Mofussil. Scarcely any officers or civil ser-
vants were pious, and the marriage tie seemed held in contempt
Gross immoralities are now more rare, and, where they east,
less shamelessly exposed. A considerable number of distin-
guished individuals, both in the civil and military service, are not
only avowedly, but earnestly pious. The strong and constant
resistance, lately made by the government of India to the spread
of the gospel, is within the memory of every reader. This re-
sistance was enforced and stimulated by almost every European
resident, especially among the higher classes. They really be-
lieved, that to permit missionary operations, was to hazard their
possession of the country ; and that violent commotions on the
part of the people, would follow any attempt to overturn their
religion. Now, the missionary, in every part of India, meets
kind and respectful treatment from Europeans, and in many
places liberal contributions are made toward tlieir schools, it
is found that the natives can hear their religion pronounced
false, and even hold animated debates on the subject, without
dreaming of revolt No convulsions have ever resulted from
evangelical labor, nor have any chiefs taken offence, on this, ac-
count, against the government

There is still room for great improvement, especially in regard
to the observance of the Sabbath. Merchants, tradesmen, and

I, generally, keep their people at irork on that da; H

oauol. Builditigs go on, Bbip-yurda reMOUiid wilh tlis liiuunw
and axe, Kooda are borne tlirougL the streets, bnzure ore optOf
the gentry Coke Ilieir usual drivi;, and Suiiduy id as iiltle
arable by aiijiearaiiceij as in Paris. Tlie general reaeau givcuiB,
that tfau religlou of tfae iaborera is noi iii&iuged. But it should
not be forgonen that the commandinem ia — "Thuu shalt not
do auy work, thou, nor thy son, nor lliy daughter, thy iiiiui-ser-
Tsnt, norltiy niaid-servonl, nor ihy cattle, nor the etranger iliat
ia ivitliiu tliy gaEetj."

The alate of religion, ae we commonly understand lliot phrase,
IB very low. I attended moEt of the principal Protestant places
of worship, and, by ai^tual enumeration, found the largest audi.*
ence not to exceed two hundred and fifty persons. Several of
tbem were not more than one third tliat number. The churck
in the fort, being attended by troopsj according to regulation, i»
iiilL The montlily conceit of prayer is held unitedly by all tha
churches except one. At one of these meetings which I at-
tended, only sixty persons were ]>resent, and in the otiier aboill
eighty. During the week, there are lew prayer-meetings; and
those which I atlended seldom had more tlian from six to ten-.
persons present 1 could not hear of a single ijuuday Sdiool ia
the city. The announcement of the anniversaries of the Tract
and Bible Societies anakened the most pleasing exiicctations ;
but at neither of them wer« tber« more than Mventy-fire peraona.
praeeut, beside the minieters.

Benevolent institutioiui are numerous, and generally supported
«rith great liberality. Beside those which have been named, are
the Bible Association, the Committee of the Church Mission-
ar; Society, tbe Church Missionary Association, the Diocesan
Coimnittee for promoting Christian Knowledge, the Auxiliary
MiM(»ary Society, the Bethel Union, the Seaman's Friend So-
oety, tbe Military Orpban Society, the Military Widows' Fund,
Urd Clive's Fund, the King's Military Fund, the Mariue Pension
Fund, the Ciril Fund, the Mariners' and General Widows' Fund,
tlie Presidency General Hospital, tbe Native Hospital, the Hos-
pilal for Native Lunatics, the Government Establishment for
Vaccination, the Charitable Fund for tbe Belief of Distressed
Europeans, the Emnpean Female Orpban Socie^.

C^utta has sixteen Episcopal clergymen, viz., six Compan^p^
disdains, two cbap'^ins to institutions, two profesaors in Bishop'a

1
I

86 BISDUSTAK.

College, and six Missionaries. There are also one Scoteh JSjA
chaplain, one pastor, and three missionaries of the IndependiiBl
persuasion, two Scotch Presbyterians, and six Baptist miasionaiiei^
and several others; making, in all, with the bishop, marinen^
minister, &C., about thirty-five Christian ministers, beside thoie
of the' Armenian, Greek, and Catholic churches.

There are in the city eleven Christian places of worsh^^
generally large, where services are held every Sunday in English.
Of these, five are Episcopal, two Baptist, one Scotch, one Inde-
pendent, and a floating chapel, for seamen. There are abo
three Roman Catholic churches, one Armenian, and one GredL
At Howrah, Kidderpore, and other adjacent villages, preadung
in English is also regularly maintained. Each of the Baptist
churches have handsome brick meeting-houses. Mr. Yates is
pastor in Circular Road ; Mr. Robinson was, till recently, settled
over Lallbazar, and Mr. Pearce over the Bengaleese. A vast print-
ing-office and type foundry, gradually enlarged to its present di-
mensions at a cost of nearly $100,000, with three excellent dwell-
ing-houses, have been erected, without pecuniary aid from Eng-
land, and chiefly through the profits on the printing-ofiice. This
establishment not only prints largely in English for government
and individuals, but in all the written Oriental languages, and
casts type in most of them. Six presses, on an average, are con-
stantly employed in printing the Scriptures. Mr. Yates, beside
officiating as English pastor, has acquired great celebrity fi)r
skill in Bengalee and Hindustanee, and for his admirable revision
of those versions. He seems raised up to complete the labors
of Carey in these important translations. Many recollect with
pleasure his visit to this country.

Beside the places of worship for foreigners, there are, in and
around the city, various preacliing bungalows and chapels for
the natives. Of these, four are maintained by Episcopalians,
four by Baptists, five by Independents, and one by the Scotch
Kirk. Some of these are daily occupied, and, in general, with
encouraging attendance.

I was several times present on these occasions, in different
parts of the city, and was deeply interested with the decorum
and earnestness of attention shown by the auditors. As a speci-
men of these occasions, I will describe one which I attended
with the Rev. Mr. La Croix, a German missionary, who has
acquired such a command of the Bengalee, as to be as much at

home in it aa in bie mother tongue. He devotea himself TrhoUjr
to preaching oiid other evangelical labors, and unites great
bodily vigor to untiring energy, and ardent intereet in hia worit.
On arriving at the place, no one had uaseniblcd ; but no sooner
were we seated, than eome passers-by l>egiui to collect, and the
number gradually increased, during the services, to seventy or
eighty. Some sat down, but the greater port remained standing,
aiul Bcarcely oitvanced Iwjond the door. For a while, the
preacher went oti expounding and arguing, without interruption ;
htil at length some well-dressed persons proposed objections,
and but fbr the skill of tlie niisaiouiiry, the sermon would have
degenerated into a dispute. The objections showed not only
acutenesB, but often considerable knowledge of the Christian
Scriptures. Some countenances evinced deep anxiety. Some-
times there was a general murmur of applause, when etrong
eigumenta were advanced, or satiafactory expositions given. At
the close of the meeting, many accepted tracts, selecting such na
diey bad not seen before. One of the most venerable hearers,
and B chief speaker, approached us as we came away, and pro-
nounced upon lis, in his own manner, but very solemnly, a cordial
benediction ; declaring, at the same time, that what we advanced
was aU good ; that, no doubt, Christianity was the best religion,
but that too many difficulties were yet in the way, to permit him
and hia countrytnen to embrace it 1 om sure no Christian could
be present on tljcse occasions without being satisfied of the im-
portance of mainttdoiiig these efforts, and cheered to eceitions
Kh* their extension.

I attended worsfaip, on several occasions, at Rev. W. H.
Pearc«'B native chapel ; and was highly gratified, not only with
die ntunber present, and their deportment, but especially w'ah
the psalmody. All united, with great animation, in this delight-
fiil part of Christian worship. Two of their times I was enabled
to obtain in writing, and insert them here, confident that they '
irin possess interest ; only regretting that I was not able to se-
cure, in the same way, some of the equally pleasing airs of the
Kuena at Tavoy.

HmDUBTAll^

BENGALEE AI&,

IVVO BT HATITZ CHBISTIAJTS Iff CALCUTTA.

BJumooiaBd la three twiti, at the noMit 41 i
the Mitfaor,t7 UOWStsL ML480M, E/i^ )

Je jan a pan pran -a di-apa-pi u-

dha - re

O man bhu - - a na tan - re

=¥=3=1-

J J .TJ./3

Na bho -li-o arka-ra se-i 8ar

Nabho

I — r -f— f

- li - o ar ka- ra se - i ear I - su Bram - a nam-

-(• — #■

P=P

5=?

i^ppf^

The aboTB hymn wu written by Kiudum, a native preacher.
The following is a

rKSB TXANBLATIOK.

1. 3.

Ha wba yielded once lug brealb, Ceua tfay Ihutteu tin] and can ;

Smfbl maa to me from ctealh, Chiiil will aU th; bonlen bear j

O mj toil], forgel not Him Grace and lore sball soothe ibe breaHJ

Forget not Him. That liftM for raH.

God'i b«tl gift, thy ricbait Mora,— He in death with pity aniled—

ChriH Ibe Lord, witoee holy nama Shad lua ciimion idaod abroad'

Now lanM riom ihajna. Leadi maa to Qod.

Futhfiil Friend! on Ibaa I caO, ^
By day, by nlgbt, my alt in alt.
Thy DBme, tweel Je«oi, brisga relief.
And naya my giieC

BUfDUSXAK

ANOTHER.

O manstir-a stir -a stir -a na ha

manstir-a stir -a stir -a na hai o a -stir -a a-se

r ff n r

che prim - er-a Sa-gar - - - a. Ji-sur na-me ha-ba par. Ji-

9 0.

tfiitrirrrir rr m

t^AAJ^=^

m^^^^^

-sur na-me ha-ba par. Omantran-a luir-ta ke-ha na-hi ar

F F 0-

m=mw^

^^^i

O re man de-kha tran-a kar-ta ke-ha na-hi ar.

<'n '^^ j:J tn ^3^afeE^t^

LITERAL TRANSLATION.

O, my soal, be steady, be steady, be not unsteady !

The sea of love is come !

The name of Jesus bears thee over.

O, my soul, there is no Savior but Jesus.

Chorus. O, my soul ! See !

There is no Savior but Jesus.

CALCUTTA* 41

In some places, numerous individuals have openly renounced
caste, and become nominal Christians, but without indicating or
professing a change of heart These form a class at once en-
couraging and troublesome — encouraging, because they have
broken from a fiital thraldom, and placed themselves and their
children in the way of religious instruction — troublesome, be-
cause, while they come, in some degree, under the control of the
missionary, they are not reclaimed even to a strict morality, and
are naturally regarded by the heathen as exemplifying our religion.

In a few cases, the native Christians have been gathered into
villages, together with others, who, for various reasons, have re-
nounced idolatry. One of these is near Serampore, superin-
tended by the missionaries there ; another is at Luk-yan-ti-pore,
thirty-five miles south of Calcutta; another at Kharee, fifteen
miles further south. The two latter are under the superintend-
ence of Rev. Geo. Pearce, of Seeb-pore, and contain one hundred
and seventy families. It is but eight years since any of these
people professed Christianity ; and the baptized now amount to
about fifty. Rev. Mr. De Monte, an fkist Indian, and three native
preachers, have the immediate charge, Mr. P. visiting them once
a month. The most promising children are taken to the Seeb-
pore and Howrah boarding-schools, where about ninety of both
sexes, who of course are all nominal Christians, are now re-
ceiving a regular course of mental and moral culture. Persons
who join these villages, under a nominal profession of Chris-
tianity, are received and treated as catechumens. They are rd-
quired to promise obedience to certain rules respecting fornica-
tion, thefl, fighting, attendance on public worship, abstaining
fi'om heathen rites, observance of the Sabbath, &c. Them-
selves and their children are thus brought immediately under
the eye of a Christian teacher and the means of grace. None
are baptized, but on a satisfactory evidence of conversion to
God.

Beside the stations in connection with the Baptist mission-
aries, there are similar villages patronized by other sects, viz..
Ram Makal Choke, and Gangaree, under Mr. PifTard, of the
London Missionary Society ; Nursider Choke, under Mr. Robin-
son ; Jhan-jara, under Mr. Jones ; Ban-i-pore, under Mr. Driberg ;
and Budg-Budg, under Mr. Sandys ; the tliree latter in connec-
tion with the church of England. The whole number of con-
verts at these stations I could not learn, but am assured that it

exceeds two thousand. The degree of knowledge and piety

43 huidustah;

must be smaU, among converts poaseflaing ao few and leeent
meana of spiritual improvement, exposed to ao many Bnaie%
trained from in&ncy to every vice, and belongingi for the moil
part, to the lowest clasaes. Still there is an evident superioritf ,
on the aide of even the nominal Christiana.

Christianity is certainly gaining a footing among tiie natim
of Bengal ; though the rate of advancement is alow. Tlwra »
the fiillest evidence that the Hindu system has received, in thia
presidency at least, a great check. Few of the numerona indi-
viduals, who have received education in the missionary and for-
emment schools, retain confidence in the systeni of their fethen
This class of persons is now rapidly multiplying and the atandr
ard of their education becoming more elevated. A smattariog
of geography and astronomy, is itself sufficient to break the
power of the prevailing belief on the mind of the pupiL The
preaching of missionaries, the distribution of BiUes and traetii
and the natural inquiries elicited by the presence of ao many
intelligent jR>reigners professing Christianity, have tended to di^
ftise still more widely the knowledge and claimB of true religion.
Multitudes are convinced that their system is wrongs who are yet
retained in the ranks of idolatry or Mahometanism by a fear,
lest possibly, the feith of their fethers may be beat for them,
and a want of principle, sufficient to encounter opposition and
suffering. But their stated observances are coldly rendered;
their children are not brought up with the old enthusiasm fer the
national faith; and a thousand acts and e:qKres6ions apprize
those children of their parents' true sentiments. These, together
with the numerous youths who are receiving education fix>m
Europeans, already form a considerable body of the rising gen-
eration. Loosed, in a good degree, from the intellectual bondage
which has griped preceding generations, and prepared, in various
other ways, to hear preaching with profit, they form an increasing
class, to which the fiiends of truth may look with hope.

Brahmins are not venerated as heretofore. Though thousands
still find a luxurious competency in the ofierings of the people,
thousands more are compelled to pursue callings which throw
them into society divested of their aristocratic exclusiveneas and
spiritual influence. I have often seen the sacred thread over
the shoulders of common sepoys, market-men, mechanics, and
door-keepers. Enjoying many advantages, and given to polyga-
my, they multiply fester than the herd, who are pinched for

BubEietence, and often sufier from actual Ikmuie. Such inerean
must, of itself, tend to the reducdon of their suppoaed sacred?-
neas of character.

Tbo name of Serompore U so intimately associated with tha
history of modem nuEeions, eapecially those of the Baptist d»
nomination, that I of course spent some time there. A pleasant
ride of fifteen miles brought mo to Barrackpore, a miliiaiy stS:-
tioB OD the river side opposite to Senunpore, and the seat of th«.
govemor-generai's country residence. The road is bordered
with fine trees the whole distance, and the country, as far u
the eye can reach, is in high cultivation. Many iahorere were
ploughing — au oiieration which stirs up but a couple of inches
ofsoil, and would call forth the surprise and contempt of a New-
England farmer. The plough costs but fijly cents, and the mio-
iature oxen which draw it, but five dollars the pair. The latter.

(an generally marked all over witti lines and circles, burnt upon
tfnir skin. The view of Serampore from the river, is exccad*
UIgly attractive. The same architecture which prevails at Cal-
CtUtB, gives the bouses the appearance of elegant marble villas;
and the huge college, with its superb columns, confers dignity on
the whole scene. The river is here about eight hundred or a
thousand yards wide, placid, and full of boats.

The population of Seranipore is fifteen thousand. Aljout one
hundred of tlie houses are designed for Europeans, but nearly
half of them are empty. I was kindly received by the venerable
survivor of that noble triumvirate, wliicli will never be forgotten
while missions rotuin an advocate. Though iuliisaixty-iiinth year,
Or. MukIuiuui'h eye u» uot dim, nor ius step alow, lie lends the
(BigingiBt family wravhip, with A clear and fiill voice; preachM,
with energy; walks rapidly aerend miles every momiug, and.
derotes as many hours every day to study, as at any former period.
His school for bt^s, and Mrs. M.'s for girls, are continued, tlum^
less lucrative than hitherto, firom the nimiber of nmilar ones
DOW establisbed in the country.

Every walk through the town and its environs, preaenla,
dtgeote which awaken tender and serious thought There'
is the Ghaut, where, tUrty-six years ago, Maishman and Ida
bmily landed, friendless and discouraged by the typoai ti on.
of Uie Company's government There, twenl^-fbur years ago,,
landed Harriet Newell and Ann H. Judson* irtuiae feet now tread
tbe^tairy {dais. And up those steps, for matgrysarspmswioQt'

44 mnowTAK.

aries of all names and parties have ascended, to receive a fl«tt^
nal welcome to India.

Close by are part of the foundations of the houses of Gangr
and Ward, long since overturned by the enatwchments of Ae
river. Further down is the printing-office, whence so mug
thousands of thousands of portions of the word of God, in loh
guages spoken by mart than htdf the pagan toorH have bea
produced. Still further is the college, a superb and vast edifin^
the principal hall of which is said to be the largest in India, ft
is a chaste and noble building, constructed of the most duraUe
materials throughout. The staircases are of ornamental cast
iron, imported from England at great expense. Its library a
exceedingly valuable, and contains the immense collection of
dried botanic specimens by Dr. Carey. Connected vnth the in-
stitution are about one hundred pupils, but for the most part
young, and studying only preparatory branches. At this time^
there are but two regular students in the college proper. Hib
building was erected when there were no similar institutioaB iB
India, and shows the capacious plans and noble spirit of its
founders. But the starting up of so many schools of asular
character, and other causes, have prevented the expected aeees-
sion of students. There is reason to hope that the active qram*
tion of the numerous elementaiy schools in the vicinity vriD, ere
long, create a race of scholars prepared to proceed in the elevated
course of studies intended to be here pursued.

In the rear of the college are two professors' houses, in one
of which Carey spent his last years. The room in which he ^ed
called up indescribable sensations, and I trust wrought improf»-
ment upon my spirit Behind is the extensive botanic gardeB}
where that wonderful man, by way of relaxation, gathered a vast
collection of trees, flowers, fruits, and vegetables, from every pait
of India, and from whence he diffused a taste for natural scienoe^
which is now yielding invaluable results.

A handsome church was built in the town, by the Danish gof-
emment, many years ago ; but no chaplain has ever been ap-
pointed, and the missionaries have always officiated there. They
have, beside this, a commodious chapel of their own, where wtO"
ship is performed on week days and Sunday evenings, and a
considerable church of natives. A mile and a half from tovm is
another.

A little to the north of the town, in a calm and retired epot, is
the mission grave-yard, surrounded vrith pahn groves. It con-

SERAHPORfe. 45

tains about an acre, enclosed with a good brick wall ; and along
its nice gravel walks are mahogany trees, set at proper distances.
The monument for Ward is a circular pavilion, beautiful and
chaste, with a suitable inscription on one side, read from within.
Carey's is a plain cenotaph, built many years ago, for some of
his family, and now bearing additional inscriptions for himself
and his widow. His own epitaph, by his express direction, is
merely this: —

WILLIAM CAREY,

Born 17th of August, 1761.

Died 9th of June, 1834.

"A wretched, poor, and helpless %Dorm,
On thy kind arms I/aUJ^

Mrs. Carey, his third wife, died about a year after her husband.
Mr. Ward's widow survived him ten years. Carey's son is now
a missionary in the upper provinces. Ward left two daughters,
both of whom are pious, and have been married several years.

This mission was commenced in 1793. Its history is too well
known to leave me the necessity of describing it, or dwelling on
its fruits. It was the commencement of tliose grand operations,
which we trust the church will never relinquish till the earth be
filled with the knowledge of the Lord. With the exception of
what had been done in the Tamul and Malayalim languages, the
whole of India was then entirely destitute of the Scriptures in
their vernacular tongues. Few in number, and sustained by
their own resources, the missionaries have given the world the
whole Bible in Sunscrit, Chinese, Bengalee, Hindu, Mahratta,
Oriya, Sikh, Pushtu or Afghan, Cashmere, and Assamee ; and tlie
New Testament in the Gujeratee, Kunkun, Multanee, Bikaneer,
Bhugulcund, Maruar, Nepaul, Harotee, Kanoja, Mugudh, Oojuy-
i-ne, Jumbo, Bhutneer, Munipore, Bruj, Kemaoon, Shree-nagur,
and Palpa ; beside portions of the New Testament in various
other languages. Some of these vei*sions have been repeatedly
revised, and successive editions printed.

There are now eighteen mission stations, and twenty-two
churches, connected with Serampore ; at which are laboring five
Europeans, and twenty-two Indo-Britons, with twenty-five native
preachers and catechists. Of the eleven members which con-
stituted the first church in India, Mr. Marshman and wife alone
remain.

The late transfer of the printing-office, and steam paper-mill.

46 hhidustazc

to Mr. John C. Marshman, has been matter of much dkexumm^
and seems not clearly understood. The explanation g^ven me oft
the spot amounted to this : Some years before Dr. Carey's deill^
the concern was deemed bankrupt The printing-ofEice» p^M^
mill, and other property, valued at about 126,000 rupees^ me
made over, in fee simple, to Mr. J. C. M. in consideratian of hk
anuming all the debts. To whom these debts are due^ abA iv
what, and what portion has been paid, were not mentioned^ and
I felt unauthorized to ask. It is much to be regretted that this
transfer was not made public, till so long after its execution, and
till Carey was no more. No one could so satisfactorily have
explained the matter to the public The controversy is now use-
less, as a question of property. The lots and buildings are re-
duced to a value almost nominaL Since the place ceased to be
an asylum for debtors, who fled hither from the British terri-
tories, it has constantly decayed. At this moment Mr. J. C. M. is
about to remove the printing-office to a new building of his own,
not on the Society's land, and the old office is almost a ruin.
One dwelling-house, now in good order, and valuable, is nearly
the sum of all the English Society's aclmowledged property.

One thing is certain — that there have seldom appeared men
so disinterested as Carey, Marshman, and Ward. Carey received,
for upwards of thirty years, more than five hundred dollars a
month, as professor in the College of Fort William, and Bengalee
translator to government Ward earned equally large sums in the
{Minting-office, as did Mr. and Mrs. Marshman by their schooL
Yet, as Dr. M. assured me, they ate at a common table, and drew
from the common fund only the paltry sum of twelve rupees per
month each! The rest went for the support of out-stations,
casting types, and the translating and printing of the sacred
Scriptures. The expense of tlie Chinese version alone, for pun-
dits, types, &c., exceeded a hundred tliousand dollars !

The agreement made at an early period, by the Serampore
brethren, one with another, and published to the world, is worthy
of all praise; especially the following extract: "Let us give
ourselves up unreservedly to this glorious cause. Let us never
think that our time, our gifts, our strength, our families, or even
the clothes we wear, are our own. Let us sanctify them all to
God and his cause. O that he may sanctify us for his work !
Let us forever shut out the idea, of laying up a cowry for our-
selves or our children. If we give up the resolution which was
formed on the subject of private trade, when we first united at
Serampore, the mission is from that hour a lost cause. A world-

tr 1*'^ qonrd^ and amy evil wwk, will mcwMd, tba monwiK
k k Bdniittad dwt eaeh brother may do ■ometliiiig on hk om
—■■■"' Woe to tlut man who ahall ever nuke the wtiiiHwa
' tanmnimt toward sneh ■ ummdm. Let ua continually watoli
■g**"— * worldly aiMii^ and euttinle a Chriaiian indiffiienea
Knrarda aray *~*"'r™~ Bather let us bear hardneaa as food
miklkwM (tf Jsani Cbria^ and endaftTor to learn in eveiy Mats to

Nanwr 'Irbm^mm mon laborioua men than
ndiriainriea, md avnr iholl we see tUoagn tamptBliona to
amaMWMltbfidinqnIdiedftrtbecaiMofCauiat. Theanui|o-
ment ftr drawing lax dollan a mooth ibr penooal eapenaea
WW) diafwntfnaed in 1817, and a«aii drew wbU he needed ; bitt
neilber of dwm Ud op proper^ te lunael£ Cany died witb-
out teming Ug widow any ttdng. Ward left only about fin
ttooaand doUari, Ae preeeeda of hta pwoU property, put to in-
teraat'oo U> flnl laaring Engtani Mwrwhinan is known to be
poort and bki^ of Krii^ now at leaat,ifl more ftugal than
ttat at idzwMt any aHut mtaaionary I aaw in Hinduatan. Hany
of hto meaaDTCB are generally diaapprored, but hie diHgenee
md true greatneaa mtiaC aland conftaaed. It cannot be said tba
gkry of BeranqMwe ia departed ^imil^ U baa Dowbeeome*
mete mdt among "■J^™*, ita UMoiywiD ercrto one of the
btif^riMt page* in Ae teeorda of modem benenrienoe. TlM
leneflta it baa produced are lasdng as the world. It haa been,
■wallowed up m more difihsed endeeTora, like the monung atBE
luring idace to d^, — awallowed up in brighter light.

CHAPTER n.

Madras — Catamarans -^ Difficulty of Landing — Black Town —Esplanade-
Population — Illustrations of Scripture — State of Religion— Catholiei—
Teloogoos -^ Travelling by Palankeen— Pondiclieny-CaddaloiB—
Tranquebar — Combaconum — Tanjore — Kohlhoff — Swarts — Triehi*
nopoly — Heber •— Scringbam — Slavery in Hindustan — Idolatry aqipart-
ed by Government -^ Brahmins and Brahminism — Progressive Poveitj
of the Country -^ Modem languages of Ifindustan.

A VOYAGE of fourteen days, in a small trading yessel, without
a white &ce in it but my own, brought me to anchor in the roads
of Madras, January 26^ 1837. It was a fortnight of great dis-
comfort ; but I could not waive my rule of going in the fint
vessel when my work at any place was done. Generally, if an
opportunity is allowed to pass in India, weeks and even mooths
elapse before the occurrence of another. Our captain, in this
case, was a quiet native of Chittagong, and, though he had no
means of ascertaining longitude, made a short and safe voyage
by dead reckoning. By taking such a vessel, instead of an Euro-
pean, I saved three fourths of the customary price of passage.

There being no indentation of the coas^ nor any island to
break off the sea, a heavy swell rolls in throughout the year.
Vessels anchor in the open roads ; the large ones keeping a mile
or two from shore. The swell keeps them pitching and rolling,
as uncomfortably as when at sea. The danger is so great, duriDg
the south-west monsoon, that vessels are not allowed to lay here
for several months in the year, and the anchorage seems de-
serted. Cargoes are loaded and unloaded, by boats adapted for
passing through the surf. Among the first objects that struck
me, were the catamarans^ gliding in every direction. These are
exactly like a New England stone-sled. Three flattened tim-
bers, eight or ten feet long, are tied together horizontally, and
sharpened a httle at the point One or two men propel it with
a paddle, flattened at both ends, and dip first on one side, and
then on the other. They sit on the calves of their legs, with the
toes inward, and in this position, which is the only one the case
admits, they often remain for hours. The water, of course,
comes up between the timbers, and washes over the little rafl,
so that the men are kept wet to the middle. If they would carry

MAsaui 40

way arddai dry, idiieh is eddom attempted, tliej ooostmoC a
lugii pile of boahee in the centre. When no boat could life fiio
minutea, theae catamaiana go about in perfect aaifety. The men
aieoAen waahed ofl^ but inatandy leap on again without alanOi
A frater-proof ciqp^ fer the carrkige of lettera to and fiom newly-
anived ve a a e la ^ ia almoat thair only article of dreaa. The reat fa
tat -a atrip of cotton cloth, two or three inchea wide^ fiMrtaned,
lant and rear, to a twine tied round the hipa.

Tjinding aeemed ao difficult, though the weather waa fine, that
it waa hard to coneeiTe how gooda could be conveyed without
getting wet Yet theae boatmen do it, and diqilay energy and
akill acarcely to be aurpaaaed. Keeping time to a rude tune^
diey now take long puUa, and now abort ones, aa the wavea run
paat; they at length pudi the boat fmward on a fbaming aurl^
and ahe ia thrown upon the beach. Aa it recedee, some jump
out with the ropea, and, at eveiy returning waye, get her a litde
hi|^ber, till ahe liea atill upon the sand. The operation ia auffi-
oantly diaagreeable, eapedaUy to the tinud. Tlie paaaenger ia
not only almoat thrown fi*om hia aeat, by the heavy and repeated
atriking of the boat upon the beach, but ia generally well
qainkled by the breakera dashing against her before ahe can be
hanled up aufficiendy. The boats' are large and deep, made,
without riba or timbers, of thin, vnde planks, warped by fire to a
proper shape, and fastened together by strong twine. Against
the seams, straw and mud are fastened strougly, by the twine
which ties the planks together. No nails are used, for none
could keep a boat together with such thumping.

The city presents, fi^m the sea, nothing to create large expec-
tations. Only a few public buildings are visible, and not much
of the town, as the site is quite level. It is, however, a noble
dty, and has many fine streets. The Black town, so cabled
fiom the color of the natives, who reside there, is well laid out,
and is defended by a substantial brick wall. The houses are far
better, on an average, than those of the natives in Calcutta.
Though there are not so many fine residences of rich Baboos, as
in that city, there are some scarcely surpassed in elegance by any
in America.

A space of several miles in the rear of the Black-town is occu-
]aed by the Europeans. Their houses are not placed in rows,
bat scattered about, and embosomed in gardens and slirubbery.
Trees are planted in rows along the principal avenues, and the
number of pleasant drives surpasses those of any city I have yet
Been in the East

YOI- II. 5

The fort is on the ehon Muth of theHat^-towii, with k Inga
open Hpac« between, roMired m an eapluiade. On th« nvr-
g^ of this opening, next to the sea, and also below the ibr^ ii
the faahionable evening drive. Here, weaif of laflHitnde «
labor, come all the gentry to enjoy the flWmeM and gtoij
of minaeL The rushing of the ceaaeleaB surf — tbe niunaooi
vessels, of varied make — the cool sea breeze — the aaJBt^
ocean — the wide sweep of western skj — the snperb equiptgM
— the cheeriiil Aces — and the cordial greetings — make il
every way charming. In going to "the course," yon noeet, along
the less pretending roads, merchants on their camels^ Arabs on
their steeds, Burmans and Moguls on their ponies, native gonde-

men in their handsome bulloclc carriages ; while the sircars, &C.
Bredrawnbyaswgle as, in an indescribable sort of wheelbarrow,
or are home in palankeens.

While in this city, famous for snoke-cliarmers, I sent for some
to show me their skill. They brought a boa constrictor, and
several cobra de capele; the latter being, oa is known, highly
venomous, and generally fnlal. They were in shallow baskets.
coiled up as close as possible. Tlie keeper had a simple flage-
olet ; on hearing a few notes of which, the snoke gracefully erected
half its length, and spread out its beautiliil bead and neck 10

ft Isndtii of Hirand iofihea. The keeper iwMno tiwm ff ceaeadliii
moBCi and inrititted the creature with his hand; which it bit
vkileiitly, but without iiguiy, its fiuags haying been extracted.

These men aie <^en employed to draw forth team their holaa
■nakea which infest gardens and old buildings. Playing on
tbanr flageolet, they pass round the suspected placesy and if
iarpents be there^ are sure to bring them fiurth. IVithout per-
mitting the music to cease, an attendant seizes the snake by the
taSpaisd whirls it round so rapid^ that it cannot bite; sliding one
bsiid up gradually, till he gets it firmly by the neck; then, taking
a little stone or shell, he crushes out the fimgs^ and puts it in Us
basket or bosom, and carries it away. The transaction forcibly
reminds one of the passage, Ffenlm IviiL 5^ which compares the
wicked, who persist in their ways in spite of counsel or entreaty,
to serpents that will not be charmed. This tez^ as well as Jere-
miah viiL 17, where Jehovah threatens to send among Israel
<<serpents which will not be charmed," shows that the trade of
these men is of no recent date.

The population of Madras, including aU the Tillages within
several miles^ is generally reckoned at 490^000. But a census
made in 1333 gare only S7,000 houses. Thi% at seven inhab-
itants to a house, vrould make the population about 19(M100l
Large qpaoes, even within the walls, are whoUy vacant Allow-
ing for houses omitted in the census, the population is perhaps
200,000. There are populous villages in the neighborhood,
containing 100,000 more. One of the most striking peculiarities
in the town is the universality with which males and females,
old and young, bear upon their foreheads, arms, and breasts, the
marks peculiar to their religion, or sect of it* Some have a red

* Those know little of the world, who advance the existence of sects as an
objecUon to Christianity. Over aJl Hither India, the same books are held
sacred ; yet the community is divided into many sects, holding their preferences
with bitter zeal and exclusiveness. Brahma has no followers, because, as the
supreme God, he is above all concern with mortals. Vishnu and Siva have
each their sects, and even these are far from harmony. The worshippers of
Vishnu are divided into twenty sects ; those of Siva into nine. There are four
sects who adore Doorga, and ten devoted to various other objects, which, with
some subdivisions, swell the number of Hindu sects to nearly aeveiUy! Ccdlis*
ions, among these, are perpetual and rancorous. AtHurdwar, and many other
places, scenes of violence and bloodshed invariably occur at the great annual
festivaJs. The feuds of similar kind which prevail among Mussulmans, are
well known, and the bloody character of their conflicts. It was thus also inth
Jews. Even the followers of Zoroaster, are stated by Gibbon to have been

52 HUfDUSTAir.

or blue spot on their forehead ; others blue, red, white, or yellow
perpendicular lines ; others, horizontal lines. Some, in addition
to these, have ashes or clay rubbed in lines on their arms and
breast I could not help recurring continually to that text, (Deu-
teronomy xxxiL 5,) ** Their spot is not the spot of his children."
The allusion is doubtless to a similar custom. These marks are
shown in the picture of a native woman carrying water, page 15^
and of a Brahmin, page 78. The former shows also the cos-
tume and ornaments of women in the lower classes, as I saw
them in the street The highest classes wear much the same,
but of far costlier materials.

Men of distinction have servants running before ; and at least
two always run besjde the carriage. Even persons on horse-
back are never without one of these runners, who is called syce.
It is astonishing how long these men, accustomed to the business
from childhood, can endure. The rider never slacks his pace
on their account, and they keep up during the whole drive.
For a long time, the sight of these poor men destroyed the
pleasure of my rides. They, however, do nothing else, and their
labor, on the whole, is certainly far less than that of a mechanic
with us.

The incident of Elijah running before the chariot of Ahab,
(1 Kings xviiL 46,) has been continually brought to recollection
by this custom, wherever I have been in India. He had assumed
an attitude of great grandeur, in mocking the national faith before
the king, and denouncing his sins before all the people ; and,
after so long a famine, he had now been praying for rain, and
already the heavy thunder announced rescue to a starving nation.
But in all these honors was he proud ? Was he disposed to refuse
his lawful king the proper homage of a subject ? He would let
all Israel see how he honored the ruler of his people, and how
far he was from vam-glory amid such triumphs. Gathering his
robes about him, therefore, and mixing witli those who ran
before the king, he did nothing out of the way, nothing for effect,
nothing in the least supernatural ; but testified, in the happiest
manner, not merely his own humility, but that even a wicked
king had ceremonial claims, which a good subject should not
deny.

divided into seventy sects, in the time of Artaxerxes. The truth is, man
will have diversity of opinions, to the extent that opinion is free. Despotism
alone makes unity in such matters.

My atey in Madres extended from January 26 to Msnih ITih,
1837, including jourae)-3 into Hip interior, Tlie weatJier, during
ihis period, was truly delightful. InNtead of remorlcs, remitting
from my own esperieiiee, I Irauscribe a lublc, allowing the liigheat
lud lowest Btule of the thermometer, and tlie mean temperature,
for every month in the year : —

January..... Max. Sd Min. 65. Mean lieigLL 75l5.

February. . . « 87. " Gft « 77.8.

Morcli. "90. " m. " 80.7.

ApriL " 94. " 75. " 817.

May " 99. " 7a " 86.

June « 9a » 79, " 88.4.

July " 95. » 7a. « 85.

AugUBL.... " !I3. » 7a. » 84.&

September. " 92. " 73, " St

October.. . . " 91. "70. " SH.

November. . " 87. " (j7. ■■ 78.

December.. " 84. » G5. " 76.

Tlie stale of religious feeling in Madma, at this time at least,
a little better tliun in Cukutla, The coticerl of prayer, which is
leld, uitiUdh/, at differt'nt churches in roUition, was hold, while I
iraa there, at the Bcoteh kirk. One city miiuHter only, was pre»-
mt, and but thirty-five other persons ; though the evening was de-
i^fatfuL The aervices were just those of public worship, so that
t could not with propriety be called a pnytr-mettutg. But reli-
pm seeniB to be exerting its blessed influence in the city more
utd more, and recently there have been among the troops in the
iiMt, some Ibrty or fifty cases of conversion.

I WW happy to find several Stmday schools, though only that
if the Wesleyans seems flourishing.

This city is the seat of several missions, by variouB societies ia
Bngland and America. There are Episcopal, Scotch, Inde-
undent, and Wesleyau churches, with excellent places of wor-
<bipy where pastors are regularly settled, who conduct Hervices in
be English language. Beside the bishops and ais Company's
Jt^ilains, there are fifteen missionaries. Episcopal, Scotch, Wes-
syan, and American, beside several who support themselves^
lod are not connected with any board. Of all the regular mis-
MHiarieB, there ue but three who are devoted wholly to the na-
ives. The rest preach in English, or take charge of schools,
Hinting, agencies, &.c. There are also in Madras fourteen

54 mifDVtkTAK,

Catholic priests, and congregations of Armenians^ JeiVB^ dec.
Some thousands of native youth are gathered into schools under
missionary superintendence, and several printing establishments
are owned by the missionary boards. The language of the re-
gion is Tamul, and in this, there are printed the whole Old and
Nevtr Testaments, and two hundred tracts, beside the Pilgrimi'i
Progress, Ayah and her Lady, Swartz's Dialogues, &c. Many
of these publications, however, need revision^ and many are
wanted on other subjects.

As regards Christianity among the natives, Madras is behind
Calcutta. I inquired of several ministers, and most of the mis-
sionaries, but no one knew the state or number of native ccm-
verts. The nominal Christians are few. As to real converts,
one missionary thought there were but two or three in the whole
city and suburbs! Another thought there were not half a
dozen, at the utmost No one supposed there were more than
that number. Some hundreds have been baptized, vnth their
children ; and many have grown up who were baptized in inftncy ;
but the conduct of this body is not always honorable to the cause.
Of the Catholics, there are some thousands ; but they are distin-
guished from the heathen, it is said, not by better morals or man-
ners, but only by not smearing their bodies and &ces with idola-
trous marks.

I had the pleasure of attending the anniversary meetings of the
Wesleyan Mission, the Madras Bible Society, &c. They brought
me into a pleasing acquaintance vnth many missionaries from
distant stations, and thus enabled me to enlarge my stock of of*
iicial memoranda.

I was particularly pleased with the Wesleyan plan of having a
second anniversary for the natives, in which the services and
speeches were in Tamul. The body of the chapel, cleared of
the settees, was well filled with natives, who sat, after their
fashion, on the floor. They behaved with perfect decorum, and
listened with attention. It certainly is a plan happily calculated
to enlighten and improve the converts, while it instructs and in-
forms the heathen.

A case has recently occurred, which has excited a great inter-
est among the natives, far and near. Arumuga Tambiran, (liter-
ally, the six-faced god,) a distinguished devotee, has been con-
verted to Christianity. He is now very old, having been for fifly
years a prominent pilgrim and teacher. Dressed in a yellow
robe, the sacred beads round his neck, smeared with ashes
and clay, and bearing the various insignia of his high station, he

pflgrinNgM lommywiDd diftuit piaoef of difdngnfalied
(HBCCitar, and wm emy where reettved with pn^fiHuid tioiwbkp
tioBL SImwi othttr% who had b«gtm thif eoone with hiin^ had
dM. Searoelj anjr mui» &r and near, itood ao hif^ aa Annma-
fla» Hk W7 appeUaticm — SVan&iitm — atmekawetotheboaoDi
^ wnrj Hindu; fi»r '^Tunbimna xank hi(^ier than Bnhnnn%
aaiii^brior onlyto the inviaible goda."* ffii public b^itiimy
htl Auguat^ baa craated a atrong^ aenaation through the entira
peninwuhL Being a poet^ he baa written aerenl pieoe% whieh
bKfe been printed in lar^B quantitiei^and are 8ou|^ after with
great aviditf ; thia being the a^le ci the aacred hooka, ffia
eaae^ however^ ia an additional eTidenee, that though the peo-
ple are diipoeed to aak if any of the great have believed on
Chiial^yet that auch an event baa litde other viaibie efibetdian
tnauMint wonder.

it waa my intention to proceed immediately to Gbieacole^ and
•ettle widiMnDayhis fiiture porition. But, on taking atepa fixr
a dAk to that plaoe^ I learned that Mr. Day waa daily eip e cted at
Madnia Thia report aftervraurda proved to be ernmeoua; but the
repoae vfhieh it gave me waa veiy providential, aa my health,
wiikli bad been decJining continually fat mane weeki^ now be*
came 00 poor that I should have been arrested on the way.

The ministers and missionaries of the city urge Mr. Day's lo-
cation here. This opinion, which had been previously expressed
by various brethren in Burmah and Bengal, I now adopted as
my own, for reasons which it is not important to rehearse. Mr.
Day had previously resolved to leave Chicacole ; and on commu-
nicating my opinion, it met his cordial approbation, and he im-
mediately prepared to embark for Madras, with his fiimily.

Learning that Teloogoos abound in Southern India, and anxious
not only to learn about them, but to measure the degree of the
nuasionaries' success in a region where Ziegenbalg, Swartz, and
odiers had labored for more than a century, I availed myself of
the time which would intervene before Mr. Day's arrival, to
make an excWsion to Tanjore, and Trichinopoly, through the
districts of Chingleput and South Arcot Instead of leaving the
reader to pick out detached remarks, scattered through the jour-
nal of this tour, I will, while speaking of Teloogoos and their
new missionary, throw together such &cts respecting them
SB seem to be requisite here.

* Dr. Francis Bachanon.

56 aUSBUSTAKi

This people, whose name is often written J^eUngOf or Ktdmgu,
are generally called, by European writers, Gentoos; but thisnamB
is unknown, I believe, to any Indian language. They occupy •
considerable part of Hindustan, but have now no country entLra^
to themselves, or bearing their name. The region where theirs k
the prevailing spoken language, is about five hundred miles loag
and two hundred wide, embracing all the Northern Circan^ •
large part of the Nizam's dominions, the districts of Cudapah
and Bellary, and all the northern part of the Camatic. Ttm
political divisions of the Teloogoo country are Ganjam, Vizagi-
patam, Rajamundry, Masulapatam or Bunder, and Guntoor.

Teloogoo families and villages are scattered over the whole
of India, between the above-described region and Gape Gomo-
rin, and are particularly numerous in the Mysore and Tanjoro
countries. The sea-coast, fi*om Pulicat to Ganjam, is chiefly
occupied by Teloogoos.

The largest Teloogoo city is Masulapatam, v?hich has a popula-
tion of eighty thousand. The next largest are Nellore, Guntoor,
Vizagapatam, Chicacole, Burhampore, and Ganjam. The latter
cities have each about twelve thousand inhabitants.

In Madras, one sixth of the population are reckoned to be
Teloogoos. They are scattered over all the city, but some streets
are almost wholly inhabited by them, and in the suburb Wonan-
petta are about fifteen thousand, settled together. Most of them,
however, understand Tamul, as well as Teloogoo : some read in
Tamul, and not in their own language.

The number of Teloogoos is not known. There are probably
about eight millions, of which one million are Mahometans.

Of this nation was the dynasty which, before the Mahratta
conquest, ruled the whole region of Madura, Tanjore, and Tri-
chinopoly, beside their peculiar country. In these districts, many
of the rich chitty, or merchant caste, are Teloogoos at thb day.

It is remarkable, that, in Japan and the islands of the China
Sea, the only name for India is Tdinga, or, as they pronounce it,
Kodingcu It is always so called in their ancient books, and the
introduction of Hinduism into their country is ascribed to the
Kalings. As it would appear, from the history of Java, that a
considerable emigration from the Coromandel coast occurred in
the thirteenth century, it is not improbable, that at that period
the Telinga or Teloogoo dynasty v^ras in its glory. Another, and
still stronger indication, is found in the fact that the Telinga cal-
endar, which difters from that which prevails in the Deccan, and
Hindustan generally, is precisely the calendar of the Javanese.

Tlieir religion ie itrahminisin, nnd the syRtem of caele is iitt.
full Ibrce. Their priritipnl classes are Itralitnina, Chetries, Vy^i;
BiaB, Sfaoodros, and Pariahs. These are suhdividod into di»- ,
tinct casles. Uf BrahminB, there are four castes; of ChetnHf
three; of Vyriaa, three ; of Shoodras, eighty-fivp; andaomeeYBH''
amotig the mieerahle Pariahs. Some of these are again Bubdi-~
vided, as, for instaniw, of that class of Shoodras who cultivate tha ,
ground, tliere are no Iebb than twenty castes! Every separata
trade and culling is a caste. The children of a barber, miint not ,
marry the children of a washerman, or any hut of the barbel' '
calling; so of smiths, carpenters, 5lc |

All classes pay the parents for their wife, The gift of ■ '
wealthy Brahniin is about half n pound of gold, and some othef •
things. Even a poor Pariah must give ten rupees. When Bi
man is too poor to pay a wife's price, he goes out to beg, sayingt ■
"I want to marry such a girl; give me some money." Po<W
Brahmins do this most frequently, and are insolently importu-
nate. Polygnmy is practised by nearly all who can af!urd it. It iff '
believed that their reli^ous system is on the wane, and, whether ,
from poverty or neglect, it is certain that no new temples hava
been built for many years.

The first efforl, in Lidia, of the London Missionary Socie^,
was made in favor of the Teloogoow; hut the measure has not
been pursued with ardor. In 1605, MeBore. Gram and Des Gran
arrived at Vizagapatam, but they both died soon. In 181%
Messrs. Gordon and Lee, from the same society, arrived, and
some time afterward, Messrs. Prilchard and DawBOD.

After the death of Mr. Davrson, the Btation was vacant til]
early in 1834, when Mr. Giordon, son of the late missionary re-
turned from England, whither he had been sent for education,
and assumed the operations. In November, 1634, Rev. Edward
Porter joined the mission, but has labored a good deal of his
time among the English.

There are now in this field tbur ordained misBionaiies from
the London Missionary Society, and Mr. Day fi«m America.
Four other pious and active gentlemen, unconnected with any
missionary society, are acquiring the language, and have devoted
themselves to the good of this people. One excellent native
convert, Poor-shu'-them, isordained, and labors extensively. B»-
nde these, several Tamul missionaries speak Teloi^oo, and do
■omething in the way of giving tracts, &c The London mis-
(donaries have published an appeal for aid, in which they state
that there are not less than three himdredTeloogoo towns, where

56 HIKDnSTAN.

missionaries might be advantageously settled under the fUll pro-
tection of the British government.

There are six schools connected with the mission at Vizagft-
patam, containing two hundred and fifty pupils. This depvt-
ment of effort has been maintained from the beginning, bat
neither this nor any other has been apparently made the
means of conversion ; and, though thirty years have elapsed, no
poor Teloogoo has at this station been brought to a saving ac-
ceptance of the Lord Jesus. The lives of those brethren who
have labored here, have, however, not been spent in vain ; they
have done much in preparing translations and tracts, and have
doubtless sowed seed, from which others will reap, that ''both
may rejoice together."

At Chittoor, there are about fifty Teloogoo filmilies, who have
become nominal Christians. Two thirds of the inhabitants are
Teloogoos.

At Cudapah, the London Missionary Society have another sta-
tion, occupied by Rev. Mr. Howell, an Indo-Briton. He has bap-
tized one hundred and fifty persons, (adults and children,) and
settled them on lands owned by the mission. The houses cost
eight or ten rupees each. Each family is expected to pay its
own taxes, and support itselE He has three schools ; one for
Christian children, and two for heathen. A few of the baptized,
probably twenty, Mr. H. hopes, are really converted. The rules
binding on nominal Christians, are, to attend worship every
morning and eveniug at the school-house; to attend public
worship on Sunday, and two evenings in the week ; to settle their
disputes before a committee of five brethren, and not go to law ;
to send their children to school, &c.

At Bellary, in the northern part of Mysore, a mission was be-
gun, in 1810, by the London Missionary Society. Strictly, this is
a Canarese mission ; but Rev. Mr. Reed has acquired an extensive
knowledge of the Teloogoo language, and has translated and
written in it to some extent. He occasionally labors personally
among the Teloogoos, who form about a third of the citizens.

The whole Bible is translated into Teloogoo ; and the New
Testament, Genesis, Exodus, Psalms, and Isaiah are printed.
The remainder of the Old Testament will be printed at the Lon-
don Missionary Society's press at Bellaiy, but how soon, is uncer-
tain. Thirty tracts are printed ; but some of them are very poor.
A large supply might be advantageously distributed ; but the Tract
Society of Madras is feeble, even with considerable aid from the
parent society in London.

Tie lugnaga b omAHodly difficah of Mqnnntiaii, but has

KiriaiufM now faaTe the wd of an exeellBDt gnmmar and
, barida tnnalatKHia of Bcripture and tracts. Two
m hare been mada of tbe New TeMament, one 1^ tba
IS and tbe other bj Mr. Pritchard, of die

TlMon^modaof inland travelling, in India, ia bj' palankeen;
■■4 in dM bot aeMOB, at ni^t only. Bungalona are built, bj
gmunmra^ on aome principal rwuls, where trarellera nmj
ipend dM diy, and wlime a aerrant ia retained, who gels witat
jtn raqoin to «aL Thejr aie^ generallf, comfiHttble brick
hM t% haring wnnl qwmnenti^ and funiiahed with chain,
Bhlei^ and ioawtiiiws bedamda.

In thja part of India, a "aet of bearen" ecnudsta of twahs
mn; ton to vntjQm palankaep, one codef to can; the bag-

gage, and a musalche. Six bearers carry at a time, and four
irm along to take their turns, and relieve tbe others, about every
quarter of a mile. The ooofey carries the baggage in tin boxeai
made for the purpose, called brntgig boxes, suspeuded firom a
pole on the shoulder. The muialche, or torch-bearer, has a bard
roll of rags, four or five feet long, os thick as one's wrist, and oil
in a copper goblet, with a very small mouth. Wbeo Le trims
Ilia lamp, he has only to knock off the snuff against a tree, and-
pour on a little more oil — a proness which reminds one con-
atandy of the parable of the virgins. Every traveller is obliged
to have bis own palankeen, in which he takes bis carpet-bag,
■nd some books, etc., hanging on the outside hie tea-kettle, bat>
box, and goblet of drinking-water. Notwithstanding the loss
of time incurred by diaoging hands so frequently, your speed

60 HINDUSTAlf.

averages about four miles an hour ; oflen more. In tmveDiiig
post, as I did, fresh bearers are had every twelve or fiileen mik&
By stalling when the sun gets low, and not stopping till eight
or nine o'clock next morning, you may go sixty or seventy miles
of a night On roads where no bearers are posted, and wheie
special expedition is not wanted, a shigle set of bearers is em-
ployed, who go journeys of any length, and average thirty miles
a day, travelling either in the day or night, as you prefer. 1
chose to travel by night, not only because the sun was oppivs-
sive, but because it prevented loss of time, and gave me the day
to be with missionaries at the different stations.

On two or three occasions, I was obliged to spend the dsj at
bungalows, and greatly enjoyed the cool quietude of these
resting-places. The solitude was delightful, and refreshing to
my spirit, as well as advantageous in enabling me to faring up
arrearages in memorandums.

This mode of conveyance has indeed the advantage of a re-
cmnbent posture ; but the motion was to me excessively weari-
some, and. with some bearers, even painfuL I liked a palankeen
in Calcutta very well, where the bearers are accomplished, and
the distances short But this hasty journey of five hundred
miles wore me out, so that I could scarcely stand. The ex-
pense with post-bearers is twenty-five cents per mile, which,
though dear for the traveller, is an extremely small sum to be
divided among fourteen men, who have also to walk back again ;
making their pay but about a cent per mile for each, for very se-
vere labor. To take one set of bearers for a whole journey, costs
less.

Leaving Madras, February 13, 1837, 1 proceeded from forty to
sixty miles each night The road led through Villacherry, Ca-
liabuucum, Trepaloor, Allatoor, Maubiliveram, Sadras, Alum-
parva, Canjimere, Collacoopum, Pondicherry, Cuddalore, Poon-
diacoopum, Chillumbrum, Sheally, Myaveram, Trivellungaud,
Combaconum, Paupanasum, and numerous smaller towns ; and
across the rivers Paular, or Palaur, Cunnabaur, Graddelum, Pet-
tanaur, Vellaur, Coleroon, C^tvery, &c. Several of these are
mouths of the Cavery.

The first stage kept us along the seaside, every surge laving
the bearers' feet, and my old acquaintance, Ocean, the only ob-
ject of my regard. The rest of the way is through a wild and
poor country, though with many towns and villages. Imme-
diately around Pondicherry, and all the country from thence
to Tanjore, is a garden. From Taiyore to Trichiuopoly, is a

POIfSICHSRRT — C UDDALORE. 61

desert, which extends, in a broad stripe, to Cape Comorin. The
district of country through which this road carried me, forms the
central portion of the Camatic, and comprehends the former
dominions of the nabob of Arcot It came under the British
power in 1801.

A few hours were deyoted to a rapid survey of Pondicherry ;
reputed to be much the handsomest town in India. No native
huts disfigure the streets, as these are all placed separately in
the suburbs. There is but little business now done here, and
but one foreign vessel lay in the roadstead. The Jesuits have a
college and a church here, and the Capuchins a church. Many
of the natives have adopted the Catholic &ith ; but it has done
little for their improvement The French are prohibited, by
treaty, from keeping many troops, and the whole city looks silent
and languishing.

Cuddalore, on the Panaur, fifty-two miles from Pondicherry,
is the first station on this route where there are English. It is
one of the great stations where soldiers are placed, who, from
having married native women, or other causes, choose to remain
in the country after serving out their time, or becoming invalids.
A few effective troops also are stationed here. The Episcopal
chaplain. Rev. Mr. Hallowell, received me with great kindness, in
the absence of tlie missionary. The invalids and pensioners are
obliged to attend worship, and with the gentry, form a large and
attentive congregation. The missionary, Rev. Mr. Jones, devotes
himself to the natives. This was a station of the Christian
Knowledge Society so early as 1737, but has not been con-
stantly occupied. Mr. Jones arrived in 1834, and is able to
preach in the vernacular. He found Mr. Rosen's church, and
ten schools, which Mr. Hallowell had superintended for five years.
He has baptized some adults, and many children, and increased
the number of schools. One of these is for girls. The whole
now contain 540 children. Mr. Jones has two Tamul services
on the Sabbath, and two in the week. The congregation con-
sists chiefly of nominal Christians. They amount to more than
three hmidred, among whom are many of tlie native wives of
European soldiers.

Though 1 passed within an hour or two of Tranquebar, it
seemed of no use to visit it, as there is now almost no visible
effect of missionary labor there. Nor is there any missionary,
the last one having accepted the office of chaplain to govern-
ment A few of the schools are continued by government ; but

VOL. II. 6

Atn an cnly three hundred iwnima] Chrubaa^ and die iraniBD
ii entirely relinquished. The caiuea of this total ahngalkn oft
tong-eatsbiiBbed inissioii deaeirs inveatigatioiL Abaadaat ■»■
tcriala exist, as to the histoiy of the men and meaaiBea ; and tfea
question ia of great importance, it ia the opinion c^ aonM (rf* tbi
best-inlbrmed persoos in that region, tliat many of the misaionanN
hBTe been unconverted men. Ifaachbethe&e^thewomleroaaaei.
A more beautiiii] country then that froA Cuddabm to Tn-
jora can lutrdly be imagined. Tlio deBse populatiMi and ricA
soil gire tbeir energies to each other, and produce a boom at
•urpaBsing lorelitieBB. But the taxes, and other eauae^ keep
down the laborers to a state below that of aouthem abna
The labor of cartying agriculture to perfection, undu* a cloud-
leSB sky, wholly by artificial irrigation, is, of course, immoiae.
Tb« wKter is ofataiued, either from the river by small canal^ or
from tanks and wells by pecottas.

The mechanism for the latter mode is Birnple and easy. A
pole, like that lo New England wells, is fixed on an upright
beam, and worked by two men, one of whom walks a few steps
backward and forward on the pole, and the other guides the
bucket The eaine plan is common in all pam of India. The
water ruBhes through troughs into channels, which lead to every
bed. Another man passes along the field or garden, and, after

whMm ing a ptapwr qwiirtf y of water to flow :iqion abedy4Hsnpflf
widi hia hand a Ikde aral into that cthaimol, and leada Ihe- W i tai
into'aiiodpar— * paming thus fiom bed to bod, t31 die wboie li
miend. The oerficeo of a wotormg-pot would be -wb/oO^
inadeqiiiata^ m a duDato ao hot, and without ndn.

floeh a praetice ii doubtlees alluded to^ Frov; za. 1, whore It
m add of GoA iMNy «ontEol of human heorli^ tiiat «lie toraedi
llMai aa the riven [lindeta] of water."

Aa fSbere n ahrajB power enough, in a tropicdi onn, ia piodiie^
legiilBliow, moiatuie alone ia necesnaj to eonatant eroppmg.
BlatrioHS therafere^ fhmiahed as this is^with tonka and tvmnif
pf^wnt ooaa^uaBif aH the varieties of aeaaona in Europe. Tba
irfe wanders over large fields, in some parte of whi^ men are
ptowgfafaft in othera planting, and in ochera hanresliDi^ at the
same time. Each field is divided, as in our^ own rice-growing
districts, into small eompartmenti^ separated by a nanow moond
of eartii, about a foot hi|^ On any one of these the water ia
turned at pleasise, while the rest are diy; and eveiy stage of
the process, and of die growth of the grain, is seen at once.
Most of die lands are ismpped tmee a year ; sometimes widi
rice, but more fi»quendy with rice first, and then mune other
grain or pulse.

The scene is beautifbl; but squalid poverty and miserable
mendicants constantly obtrude, and remind one of Pope's
lines —

" In vain kind seaaons swell the teeming grain;
Soft showers distil, and sons grow warm in vain :
The swain, with tears, his frustrate labor yields,
And, famished, dies amidst his ripened fields."

At Combaconum I found a London missionary, Mr. Nimmo,
successor to Mr. Crisp. The city contains forty diousand inhab-
itants, and was the capital of the ancient Chola dynasty, from
which the whole coast of Coromandel (corruption of C^udaman-
dd) received its name. It is distinguished among Hindus foir
its sanctity, and is one of idolatry's strongest holds in Southern
India ; though missionary labors have here been carried forward
by Protestants for more than seventy years. Great numbers o£
ti^e inhabitants are of the Brahmin caste. The pagodas, gate-
ways, and tanks are very fine.

The chief cause of the celebrity of this seat of idolatry is the
gsnersl hAliAf dint nne of ita gmiit tanks is filled, every twelfth

n HHIDUSTAK.

jenv I7 ^^ waters of the Ganges, which enter by a subter-
ra n m n passage. Thousands of people, unable to go so &r as
Bengal, rush hither, fix>m all parts of Southern India, at these
ftTored times, and bring vast profit to the Brahmins. The
efficacy of the water is deemed sufficient, at these times, to wash
awar, from all ^dio bathe in it, all manner of sin and impurity,
eren though contracted in many former transmigrations. Pa-
pists are numerous in this region, and add much to the difficul-
ties of a missiooaiy.

Hie station has not been without fruit ; and some souls haye
eridendy been bom of God. The Danish missionaries at one
time had a congregation of five hundred persona But, among
other causes, frequent intermissions of labor, by the death or
removal of the missionary, have been very pernicious. Mr.
Ninuno settled here in 1833, and has two hundred nominal
Christians (that is, baptized persons) under his care, and a
church of twelve members. Besides the chapel in the city, he
has three others in the vicinity, and employs five readers, mostly
fix>m Tanjore. He has twelve small schools, eight of vrhicb
are maintained by friends on the spot Only four of his teachers
are Christians. The Rev. Mr. Combs, from Tanjore, is about
to settle in this city.

At Tanjore, a hearty welcome awaited me to the house of the
venerable Kohlhoff; the prot^g^, friend, and fellow-laborer of
Swartz. For more than fifty years he has been a missionary.
I was charmed with his purity and simplicity of character, and
enjoyed, during the three days spent under his hospitable roof,
not only a valuable opportunity of acquiring authentic knowledge
of the history of missions in this region, but the deductions of
his own long experience and observation, and many delightful
facts I'cspecting the private life of Swartz.

The city is the residence of the rajah, who still reigns over the
kingtiom of Tanjore, paying three fifths of the revenues to the
Company. Ho is son of Serfojee, the rajah who was brought up
by 5\\i»rty., and who so sincerely loved that admirable man.
VRf* >nwWf*nro is vrithin the fortress, which is reputed to be very
"My^iniN «^Wt^ which contains not only the palace, but a population

^1^ ^liNW^I i^f Tanjore was never actually occupied by Mahom-
l % f wu . ^(^h^rW^vrt^ Iho Hindu structures remained uninjured, and
'^r WI|t*Viiiv irV>\VMUt«N were not sequestrated. Thus it is, that in
'••^^Hi^. vHf INiJI^ ^^^w* the Rrahminical faith show itself more

TAIOOKX — tW AKTS.

impniiinglyo Almost eveiy tillage has its brick pagoda, and
lo^ gateway, covered with statues in wmtsr. Brahmins hold
all the power, are the chief landiHdder% and fill almost eveiy
loontive office*

Swarti lived within the fiut, where both his dwelling-house
and chinch 3^ stand. The fbrmer is almost a ruin, but js used
as a school-room. It comdsts merely of three small roomi^ a
litde raised from the giound. Similar humili^^and moderatiiNi
an displayed in the house he afterwards built, within the yard of
lus church. Thechurehis weU built and hanclsome, and, having
bom latdy repaired, at much expense, by the nyah, is likely to
last ibr ages. It is of little service; as but two or three ChriMian
ftmilies livev^ithin the fivt To these,- iiowever, a ci^tecfaist
pneidies every Sabbath. . Swartz^s pulpit remains unaltered;
and In the wal],at the opposite side, is the marble tablet by Flax*
man, representing his last moments, vrith the ftithful Gerik6 at
his head, and the affectionate n^ and others by his nde. O
that this spadous church may again containsuch audiences as
listened to its blessed founder!

In visiting these interesting spots, we passed the njjah's palace^
and saw his tigers, dcc^kept for show. He had gone to a distant
part of the fort, and we therefore witnessed his displays of roy-
iittj. The cavalcade was resting near the gale <^ the inner
fintress, where he had entered. It consisted of a score of war
elephants, caparisoned, a troop mounted on camels, and a small
park of artillery. Men and beasts looked dirty and shabby, and
all the pomp seemed poverty-struck. The dens of the wild
beasts, originally elegant, and each having a fine tank of brick
and mortar, where the animals might bathe at pleasure, were
dilapidated, and the handsome iron balustrade nearly mouldered
away.

We passed on to the huge pagodas, extensive gardens, and
paved yards, devoted to the national superstition. Here, too,
idolatry has made one of its <<high places." But, though all is
grand and large, quietude and decay seem to be nearly in posses-
non. A few fat, supercilious Brahmins stalked along the deserted
walks ; but, except at certain seasons, worshippers are few. The
traces of recent repair are few and partial. Other shrines in the
dty are more readily reached, and thither the crowds repair.

The city itself seems flourishing. It is regularly built, and is
said to contain a greater proportion of good houses than any
other native city in Southern India.

The first visit of a Christian teacher to this important city and
6*

66 HIHDU8TAK.

province, was that of Pressier, from Tranquebar, in 1728 ; but
he was not allowed to preach, except at his own residence, and
remained but a short time. The next effi)rt was made by 1^^
denbrock, in 1753. He accompanied an embassy of the govern-
ment of Tranquebar to the rajah, and staid but twelve dajSL
His diary, preserved in the mission library^ states that he hid
some little opportunity of declaring the system of salvation be-
fore the assembled court, in reply to questions from the rajah.

The first regular missionary efforts were made by Swartz and
Klein, who began in 1762 their labors at Trichinopoly, making
occasional visits to Tanjore. Ten years afterward, Swartz re-
moved hither, and the mission may be said to have been com-
menced. The blessings which attended his efforts may be seen in
his memoir. O that his spirit had descended on all his succes-
sors ! Two thousand persons embraced a profession of Chris-
tianity under Swartz, many of whom, no doubt, were truly pious.
But he allowed them to retain caste ; and the sad consequences of
his so doing are felt to this day. Caste is not even yet wholly
done away among the Christians, and its injurious efiects are
many.

In the province, mostly collected in villages, there are now about
four thousand Protestant Ciiristians. Of course, among such a
population, a missionary enjoys many of the advantages of a
pastor in our own country. It secures, too, to those who may
choose to abandon idolatry, the means of subsistence. The
children are brought up in the knowledge of the true God ; and
various other benefits accrue. Still, it is doubtful whether the
evils do not overbalance the advantages. The baptizing of such
as embrace Christianity, without becoming pious, and of receiv-
ing to the Lord's supper all such as exhibit a due measure of
outward rectitude, and possess a certain knowledge of the stand-
ards of the church, confounds the church and the world In the
sight of the heathen, keeps down the standard of piety, brings
fbrth unconverted assistants, and makes church business a matter
of civil police. This mode of conducting missions has now been
long tried, and is practised by nearly all the missionaries in India,
except those of the Baptist persuasion, and those from America.
It deserves the serious consideration of the friends at home. Out
of the seven hundred and thirty-four communicants belonging to
the Tanjore mission, a very small part are deemed pious ; nor can
many, even of the native assistants, lay claim to this character.
Tyerman and Bennett afiirm that " no vital religion is found in
any of the preachers or native Christians."

TAKJOSS — TBICHHrOPOLT. 6T

The present missionaries at Tanjore are Mr. KohUio^(LB-
tfawan,) and Messrs. Calthorpe and Brotherton, (Episcopal) AU
are in connection with the Christian Knowledge Society. The
two latter are young, and have but just arrived. The mission, as
a whole, wears an encouraging aspect Three of the native
preachers have received ordination ; two of whom are evidently
eomverted men. One of these, Visavamarden, (mentioned in Mr.
Hough's reply to Abbe Dubois,) is still active and faithful, though
nearty sixty. £Qs labors have been particularly blessed.

Thus schools, to which government contributes a hundred
pagodas [more than three hundred dollars] per month, are in «>-
^e operation. This allowance, with the avails of Swartz*s be-
quests, nearly support the whole mission, with the exception of
the salaries of Messrs. Brotherton and Calthorpe. The whole
number of catechists and schoolmasters is seventy-eight These
come monthly to the mission-house, where their reports are re-
ceived, and where they are catechized, and otherwise instructed.
The whole number of scholars is about a thousand, of whom
sixty are boarded in the mission compound. The houses for the
missionaries, the schools, &c, are excellent and ample. These,
with the church now used, are in a pleasant suburb, composed,
in a considerable measure, of the native Christians.

Worship is maintuned in the church, on Sundays, both in
BInglish and Tamul. No audience could behave more prop-
erly than did the poor natives. Their knowledge of Christian-
ity, however, is very small. It will probably be long before
heathen churches vsrill possess the measure of light, zeal, and de-
votion, which are often seen in more favored lands.

Behind the pulpit is the grave of Swartz, marked by a flat
slab, with an inscription in English poetry, ascribed to the rajah,
his friend. The lines are affecting ; and the spot will ever be,
to the Christian, hallowed ground. Fragrant and blessed will
the memory of this holy man be, while earth stands. How
glorious is the society of heaven becoming! How blessed it
will be to meet there all the good who ever lived, and none
but such !

There are about twelve thousand Romanists in the province,
and in the city about four hundred. Their priests are generally
of the Jesuit order, from Goa. Within a few years, a large party
have come over to Protestantism.

The country between Tanjore and Trichinopoly is almost a
desert ; and I could not place a relay of bearers on the road. One

68 mcDusTAiCi

set of men bore me the whole distance, thirty-eight mflei,
between nine o'clock in the evening and sunrise next moniiii^
without apparent fatigue. This is the customary arrangemeiit

Trichinopoiy, once the capital of a small kingdom, stands on
the Cayery River, and is strongly fortified. It lias a populatkn
of eighty thousand souls. None of that importance is now at-
tached to this strong bold, which made it the theatre of such
sanguinary conflicts, between the English and French, fit)m 1751
to 1755. The Company maintain now five or six full regiments
of troops here ; but chiefly for the salubrity of the spot, and its
ready intercourse with other points on the peninsula.

The mission here was begun by Swartz, in 1762, and he
labored in this field ten years. Since that period, it has not
been constantly occupied, and previous to 1827 there had been
no missionary here for ten years ! The injury of these repeated
intermissions has been very great Rev. Mr. Schreivogel now
has charge, but the work moves on languidly. There are about
five hundred nominal Christians; some of them the descendants
of Swartz's followers; but very few give evidence of piety.
One of my informants thought there might be forty ; but another,
who had better means of knowing, could not make out ten.

The church and mansi(m-house of Swartz are within the
fort The former is still used ; the latter is empty, and going to
ruin. Here, as at Tanjore, it was sweet to linger in the rooms
where he prayed, studied, and reposed ; to handle his books ; to
look abroad on the objects on which his eye had rested ; and
to console myself with the thought, that, though so vastly his
inferior, and so unworthy of his society, I belong to that company
of redeemed ones, among whom he is conspicuous. What a
goodly fellowship ! How will that company rejoice and shine,
when the memory and the works of the wicked shall have
perished forever !

The last days of Heber were spent laboriously in this dly;
and here, <<as a thief in the night," his hour came. Though Ids
published *^ Travels in India" contain little or nothing to indicate
piety, yet no one can follow in his steps, as I have done, without
hearing enough to prove that he walked with God. I stood
over his grave in the church, and surveyed the bath fi-om whence
his lifeless body was taken,* with feelings of sacred brotherhood

* He had gone into a large and deep cold bath, which he had before used ;
and, remaining longer than common, his servant entered, and found him a
corpse at the bottom. As he could swim, it was thought he had fallen in an
apoplexy.

TKtCHiNOPOLT — SBKineHAif. 60

Uptotfae period ofBp.Hebei'H visit, in 1836, all the mimionaiy
operadoDS of this region were mBintained by the British Societf
ftr promoting Christian Knowledge. Since that time, this so-
de^ takes charge of all the echools ; and the Society for the Prop-
agation of the Croepel, aesuniea the support of the missionariea.

Being within five milea of the fimouB pagoda at Seiingham, I
of course made an excursion thither. It ia the aioet distinguished
of the renowned seven ; and the expectation of seeing it, induced
me to omit nnj remarks on those of Combaconura and Chillum-
Isum. Hindu ardiitecture is too uniform to make niunerous
deacriptioua of it inlereBting or useful.

This proud monument of ITindu art, wealth, nnd BUperstition,
stands oo an island, made Ijj the Caverj River dividing itself into

two branches, and fonning a junction again a few naSes belvw.
The iondum sandorum of the numerous slnicUires round, li
BCsrceHj larger than a natiye's hut ; but is higfaty adorned, and
in some parts gilded. It is enclosed within seven sucoessife
walls, a hundred and twenty yards apart ; the outer wall beng
toar miles in circumference. These walls are of great strengdi}
twenty-five feet high, and, beside common gateways, have hsaig
stupendous towers or pagodas over as many entrances. One of
these is here delineated, and furnishes a &ir specimen not only of
tiie twenty here, but of similar structures throu^out India. ^
comparing it with the Peguan pagoda, in the landscape ciTtmrf^
that of Ava, on p. 142, voL i., and that of China, in a subeequoDt
part c^this volume, a competent idea may be had of the difierent
forms of the pagoda. A multitude of sacred edifices are scattered
about, among which are some vast halls. The flat roof of one
of these is supported by a Hkounmd slender pillars of carved
granite. The pavements, stairs, and lower parts of the bmldings
generally, are of red and gray granite, and sienite. The rough
slabs had evidently been split, in the manner now practised in
New England. I was surprised to find that what is thought
among us to be a modem invention, had been practised here
forages.

Griffins and tigers, gods and men, tolerably sculptured,
adorned various parts ; and the trumpery of display days, with
the cars on which the idols are drawn forth, stood in the by-
place& We saw no one performing any kind of worship.

The intervals between the walls are occupied by streets of
well-built houses, and present the common aspect of a busy town.
The population is about eight thousand. Persons of all grades and
occupations reside here, and carry on their business. A very
large proportion are Brahmins. The other inhabitants seemed
chiefly to subsist by little shops, in which are sold the various
articles connected with the idolatry of the place. They made
no objection to selling me unconsecrated idols, and whatever
else I chose.

A singular aspect is given to the place, by scores if not
hundreds of huge monkeys, which are seen at every glance.
They are held sacred toHunimaun, the divine ape, who conquered
Ceylon for Rama. Of course, they are not only immolested, but
well fed ; and multiply without restriction. They looked on us
fi'om every wall, and frolicked on the trees, the images, and carved
sides of tho towers, often coming within a yard of us, without
the semblance of fear. They are by no means peculiar to this

SI^VERT IN THE CARIYATIC. 71

temple, but abound in most Hindu sacred places, and for the
Hune reason.

PUgnms fix)m all parts of India resort to this place for ab-
•cdution from their sins ; and as none come without an offering,
the Brahmins live in voluptuous ease. The establishment re-
oeivefl, also, from the Company, an annual stipend, stated by
Bunilton to be 15^600 pagodas, ($27,300.) Stil], their rapacity
18 insatiate. A half dozen of them, pretending to act as guides,
Mlowed us every where, begging with insolent pertinacity.
With* idolaters, as with Papists, clerical mendicity is regarded
a virtue, rather than a &ult

The number of slaves in the Camatic, Mysore, and Malabar, is
to be greater than in most other parts of India ; and embraces
nearly the whole of the Punchum Bundam caste. The whole
number in British India has never been ascertained, but is sup-
posed, by the best informed persons I was able to consult, to be,
on an average, at least one in eight, that is, about ten ndUuma.
Many consider them twice as numerous. The number is kept
up not only by propagation, but the sale of children by their
parents. Manumissions, however, are frequent among the opu-
lent in the northern provinces. Forbes says,* " I believe most
of the tribes of Pooleahs and Pariars in Malabar, are considered
as slaves. Tlie number of poor people who come down to An-
jengo, and the other seaports, from the inland countries, during
a famine, either to sell themselves, or dispose of their children
as slaves, is astonishing. During the rainy season, even when
there is no uncommon scarcity, many are weekly brought down
from the mountains, to be sold on the coasts. They do not ap-
pear to think it so great a hardship as we imagine."

It is strange that the British public should be so slow to open
their eyes to this great subject. For twenty years, appeals and
pamphlets have frequently appeared. In 1828, a volume of 1000
pages of parliamentary documents, on East India slavery, was
printed ; and within four or five years, some strenuous efforts
have been made to call attention to this enormity ; but as yet,
nothing has been done to purpose. Surely the zeal wliich has
achieved the freedom of a few hundred thousand slaves in the
West Indies, will now be exerted in behalf of twenty-Jwe times
ihe number in the East

** Oriental Memoirs.

72 BinmvsTAS,

]

The countenance and support given by goyemment to te
prevailing forms of religion, is a weighty subject, and callfl for
the solemn consideration of British Christians. I cannot but
sympathize deeply with the missionaries, in the trials and ob-
structions they meet on this account They have little doubt
but that the pernicious influence of the Brahmins would wither,
and their system lose its power, if government did not rendtf
its aid, both by open countenance and direct taxation.

An extreme fear of creating political disturbances, if effixtl
were made to convert the natives to Christianity, seems to hsfe
possessed the Company's government from the beginning. Henee
the refusal, at first, to allow missionary effort Hence Chambe^
lain, though in the service of her royal highness, the Begaum,
was deemed pestilent for preaching at a fidr, and her mtjesty
was reluctantly obliged to send him down to Calcutta. Haj^Hly,
the little band that found a refuge under the Danish flag at Sat-
ampore, lived to prove, practically, that such feairs are groundkiBi

But, though the government now permits and protects mis-
sionary eflbrt, it has not wholly lost its early fears ; and these,
together with a desire to be strictly neutral, lead to measurei
directly favorable to idolatry. It levies and collects the revenoes
for supporting brahmins and temples, as the former rulers did;
thus virtually making idolatry and Mahometanism the established
religions of the country! The annual allowance from the puMic
treasury, for the support of the temple of Juggernaut, is 56^000
rupees, (about $26,000,) and many other temples have allowances
equally liberal. C. Buller, in his letter to the Court of Directors^
on this subject, says, << Large pensions, in land and money, are
allowed by our government, in all parts of the country, lor keep-
ing up the religious institutions both of Hindus and Mahomet-
ans." Lord Wm. Bentick, governor-general of India, under
date of August, 1835, speaking of the tax laid on pilgrims, which
yields the Company a handsome revenue, says, ^ As long as we
maintain, most properly, in my opinion, the diflerent establish-
ments belonging to the Mahometan and Hindu religions, we
need not much scruple about the tax in question."

In the district of Tinnevelly, an examination on this sulject
was made by Mr. T., who found 2783 temples, and 9799 petty
kovils, of male and female deities, and some inferior religious
stations ; making a total of 14,851 places of idolatrous worship.
The total charge of these on the government amounts to 30,000
pounds sterling, (about $145,000,) per annum !

Beside this regular support, there are numerous other modes.

SUPPORT OF n>OI^TRT BT OOVERmiEITT. 73

n YFhicii the national systems are countenanced. Mr. Rhenius
kias stated, that, in 1831, government contributed forty thousand
niqiees toward the performance of a certain ceremony in the
temple at Tinnevelly, and to repair the idol's car ! At the prin-
sqMil festivals, guns are fired by national ships, and by the
Company's troops, and the military bands of music are loaned
Id grace the occasions. Thus Christian soldiers are compelled
to do honor to the false prophet and to dumb idols ! A letter of
the Rev. WiDiam Fyvie, dated Surat, September 1, 1836, pulK
iished in an English periodical, mentions one of these cases,
wldch are constantly occurring in every part of India. It was
the annual coco-nut day — a festival in which coco-nuts are thrown^
into the river as offerings. " This Hindu festival was ushered in
by a salute of guns fi*om the honorable Company's ship, lying in
the river opposite to Surat The castle gims fired a salute at
the same time. About four P. M., after the brahmin had conse-
crated the coco-nut with prayers, the European magistrate
presented the offering to the river, amidst the poojas (worship^
of the brahmins and other Hindus present While this vain and
idle ceremony was going forward, the ship, before alluded to,,
first moved down and then up the river, displaying her colors,
and firing salutes. The British flag was waving on Surat Castle
all the day, in honor of the festival In this way our rulers and
their agents directly and publicly countenance idolatry and su-
perstition in this place. The new moon, excepting twice in the
year, when the Mussulmans are mourning, is regulai'ly saluted
by five guns, to please the Mahometans. Two thousand rupees
are annually given to the same people by government, to assist
them in the celebration of then* Eeds, (festivals.) When shall
these practices be brought to a perpetual end ? "

Various idolatrous temples and gateways have been built
or repaired by government Vast sums have been spent on
colleges and schools, for the inculcation of heathen and Mahom-
etan doctrines and customs. By these same laws and customs,
British judges and magistrates regulate their decisions, instead
of the pure and equitable laws of their own land, and of the
Christian Scriptures ! When the cars of certain gods are to be
drawn in public procession, there has been, for some years
back, in various places, a deficiency of people. In such cases,
the oflScers of government send out magistrates, and constables,
or peons, who, with whips and ratans, beat the wretched people,
and force them to quit their work and drag at the ropes ! Mr.
Pegg, formerly a Baptist missionary at Cuttack, has fully shown,

VOL. II. 7

74 HllVDUSTAir.

in a pamphlet, published in England in 1835^ the pilgrim tiz
system, that the temple of Juggernaut, of which we hear m
much, is wholly supported by the British government ; and thita
large premium is paid by the government to <* pilgrim huntei%'
who pass throughout the land, enticing persons to make a pil-
grimage to the idol, and receive twenty per cent, of the tax hid
upon them ! In regard to these agents^ ''The Eriend of Lidit'
very forcibly observes, <<We have a body of iM mMsmam^
far exceeding in number all the Christian missionaries, perfaapi^
in the world, going forth, from year to year, to propagate d^
sion, and proclaim (what, perhaps, not one of them belierei)
the transcendent efiScacy of beholding a log of wood ; and ali
this through a perversion of British humanity, and good fidtb,
paid from year to year, by the officers of a Christian and a Bridrii
government"

Until lately, the appointment of native ChristianB to any offiee^
however low, was wholly prohibited. That prohibition is now
removed ; but, as the local officers are not bound to employ
them, and the general feeling is against it, they are still excluded.
How impressively does this say to the natives, that their rulerB
do not want them to become Christians ! I have heard sevenl
officers declare, that a man who would change his religioD,i8
not worthy of confidence ! After many inquiries, 1 could never
find any one who knew of a Christian sepoy being ever raised
above the ranks.

Corporal punishment has been abolished in all the native
regiments. Recently a native drummer committed an ofienoe
which formerly was punished with flogging. The question was
started, whether this man, being a Christian, came under the
new law. The decision was, that he was not a native, in the
eye of the law ; and he was made to undergo the lash ! I take
this fact from the Calcutta newspapers of the day.

■ Public offices are closed entirely on various native festivals;
but on the Christian Sabbath, native officers and servants, and
many Europeans, are employed as usual. I have been in no
part of the Company's territories where public works, carried on
by native laborers, are not continued on the Lord's day.

By Mahometan and Hindu laws of inheritance, the son who
changes his religion loses patrimony. British judges, therefore,
deciding by these laws, are compelled to turn the convert from his
home, a beggar. The very records of these courts are inscribed to
jS^ee, to Ganesha, and other false gods. Brahmins and others have
been appointed and employed by government to make inter-

SUFPO&T OF IDOI^TRT BT OOYERNMEITT. 75

eeom ona and invocations to pagan gods for rain, and for fiiir
weather ! It is so customary for British officers to subscribe to
one Hindu and one Mahometan festival annually, that some who
recently declined, from conscientious scruples, gave great offence
to their superiors.

I speak in no spirit of bitterness in narrating these facts. The
goyemment has, in the main, good intentions, I have no doubt;
and, next to the profit of the Company, and the preservation of
these countries to Britain, desires the well-being of the people.

Two incidents have just occurred, which will be likely to at-
tract attention. Mr. Casamajor, a distinguished civilian, has re-
signed his appointment, rather than collect revenues for the
support of idolatry. Of course, those who hold similar appoint-
ments are aimous to quiet their consciences and sustain their
reputation; and a thousand arguments are brought forward
against Mr. Casamajor*s course. The present commander-in-
chief on the Madras presidency, principled against countenan-
cing idolatry,' yet not able to forbid the attendance of troops on
festive occasions, which is a government regulation, issued a
circular, forbidding the music to accompany them. This order
has created him much trouble. Sir F. Adam, the governor, re-
peatedly and positively required him to issue a countermanding
order, l^is Sir P. Maitland would not do, choosing rather that
the governor in council, who has the power, should himself
countermand the order. After some days of sharp contest, the
governor's time to embark for England arrived; and nothing
was done.

Facts on the subject have for many years been constantly laid
before parliament, and the court of directors of the East India
Company and the British public been widely appealed to by
powerful pens. We may therefore cherish the hopes expressed
by the editor of the Bombay Oriental Spectator.*

" We trust that the time is now at hand when oiu* rulers will
cease to be the bankers and factors of the idols and their pro-
totypes, the abortions of those who became * vain in their
imaginations, and their foolish heart was darkened;' when
they will no longer grace heathen and Mahometan revelries by
attendance, and participation in their unholy rites and ceremonies,
nor rend the heavens and provoke the thunders of Omnipotence
by firing salutes in their honor ; when they will suffer no doc-
ument dedicated to *the lord of devils,' f or profaning the name

* VoL vii. No. 11. t Ganesh.

76 HIlfDUSTAlT.

of Jehoyah,* to leave the public offices ; when they will cease to
ajppeal to the <yanities of the heathen' for rain and fruitfiil
aeaaons ; when they will neither in respect < make mention of
the name of heathen gods, nor cause to swear by them,' f nor
regulate the affiiirs of their worship, nor settle the rank of thek
deluded votaries; and when they will no longer bewilder tin
minds of the < twice-born ' youth by the exploded and absurd
science of the Vedas and Puranas, taught in Sunscrit coUegeis
and qualify them for dexterously poisoning the souls of the
people throughout the length and breadth of the land, by com-
positions prepared under the auspices of the great Destroyer.
We hope, we say, that this, the most happy day which India has
seen, and the prelude of one still more glorious, will speedily
arrive ; and we invoke the blessing of God on all, in India and
Britain, who, by remonstrance with man, and prayer to God, may
seek to hasten it"

My personal knowledge of Hindustan and the Hindus, though
too limited to authorize me to pronounce new opinions, is abun-
dantly sufficient to satisfy me of the truth of portraits drawn by
others. I read much on both sides, and constantly marked
whatever tended to show up the native character, and the ten-
dency of Brahminism, and at every step was more and more
confirmed in the opinion of Lord Teinmouth, whose personal
knowledge of India was so extensive, that " the Grentoos are as
degenerate, crafty, superstitious, litigious, and wretched a people,
as any in the known world, and, especially, the common run
of Brahmins ; " and of Claudius Buchanan, who pronounced the
Hindus to be "destitute of honesty, truth, and justice ;" and of
Sir James Mcintosh, (quoting Sir Wm. Jones's opinion as his
own,) who, among the evidences of their depravity, speaks of "the
general prevalence of perjury, which is, perhaps, a more certain
sign of the general dissolution of moral principle, than other
daring and ferocious crimes, and much more horrible to the imag-
ination." Of the same mind with these distinguished men, is
Forbes, Author of the "Oriental Memoirs," already several
times quoted. He says, "I cannot praise a religion which
encourages thousands, perhaps millions, of idle vagabonds,
who practise no virtue ; but, under the mask of piety, with a
sort of stoical apathy and pharisaical zeal, undergo needless
austerities and penances near their celebrated temples, or per-

* Or Hu, t Josh, xxiii. 7.

BRAHMINS AND BBAHMINI81C 77

fade the provhicefl of Hindustaii, singly, and in large bodies, to
make depredation on the hard-earned property of the poor villa-
gers, and violate the chastity of their wives and daughters, under
a cloak of sanctity and religious perfection."

I will only add the very temperate remarks of the celebrated
Wilkea* " The Hindoo character, like all others, is of a mixed
nature; but it is composed of strange and contradictory ele-
ments. The man who may be safely trusted for uniformly un-
folding the whole truth to an Eiux>pean in whom he reposes
confidence, may be expected to equivocate, and even to contra-
dict every word he has said, if called on to repeat it in the
presence of a third person, whom he either fears or suspects ;
and in one of these descriptions he usually includes all strangers.
The same individual, who, from pique, and often without any
mtelligible motive, will perjure himself without shame or com-
punction at a public trial, is faithful, kind, and respectable, in
the intercourse of society."

Were all such testimony rejected, as partial or vindictive, the
fine rhapsodies on Hindu innocence and happiness would be
exploded by the slightest inspection of their declared religion.
The utter contrariety of the whole system to all mildness, purity,
benevolence, and peace, may be seen on opening any of their
sacred books.

" The abode of the chandalas must be out of the town ; they
must not have the use of entire vessels ; their sole wealth, must
be dogs and asses; their clothes must be mantles of the de-
ceased ; their dishes for food, broken pots ; their ornaments,
rusty iron ; and continually must they roam from place to place.
Let food be given to them in potsherds, but not by the hands of
the giver ; and let them not walk by night in cities or towns."

In the code of Menu, it is declared, that if one of the Shoodra
caste reads the Vedas, or listens to them, heated oil, wax, or tin,
shall be poured into his ears, and the orifice stopped up. And,
if a Shoodra gets by heart any of the Vedas, though he may not
have seen the book, he shall be put to death. The same code
affirms, that the only things in which Shoodras, and other low
castes, need be instructed, is the superiority of brahmins;
and that the great means of obtaining favor from the gods, is
giving them charity.

The following turgid and shocking account of the brahmins
is quoted from their own Ramayana : —

• History of Mysore.

7B BtMDDBTAft

"Erea he irba esnnot be slain bj tfte poDdaroiu Brm if
bidra, nor by those of Kali, nor by the terrible Cfaackra of Vidma,
shall be destroyed if e bmhmm curae him, as if he were ecKr
ninted by fire." In other parts, brafamiiiical potency (ahm^
it may be said, ominipotency) is Rrimgly enforced.

"Let not ft king, although in greatest distre» for mODSf,
proToke brahnuns to anger, by taking their property ; for, odm
enraged, they could immediately, by aocnfices and inqirecatico^
destroy him, with his troops, elephanla, hones,. and cara."

"Who, without perishing, could provoke these holy mai^ li|f
whose ancestors, under Brahma, the all-devouring fire ml
created ; the sea, with waters not drinkable ; and the moon, nilt
its wane and increase?" "What prince could gain wealth by
oppreswng those, who, if angry, could firame other worlds, and
legions of worlds — could ^ve being to new gods and nuK^
tals? When a brahmin springs to li^ti
he is born above the world; the chief
of all creatures; asmgned to guard ttie
treasury of duties, religious and civiL"

" He ivho, through ignorance of the liVi
aheda blood &om the body of a brahmin, DOt
engaged in - battle, aa many particles of
dust as the blood shall roll up firom dH
ground, so many years shall Ibe sheddK
of that blood be mangled by other wninMh
in hia next birth ; or so many thousand
years shall the shedder of that blood Ix
tormented in hell."

The accompanying picture of a biat
min shows the marks of clay, &Cq on hit
forehead and breast, as described page 5&
In his hand he holds a native book.

All the writers I have been able to consult, and most of
my friends in various parts of Hindustan, declare India to be in ■
state of progressive poverty and depression. The following ob-
servation of Hamilton imbodies the general idea. After staliD|
many facts, and adducing public records to prove his ossertioi^
and remarking that the nature of the connection which Undi
the coimtry to Britain will sufficiently account for this ten-
dency to deterioration, without resorting to local mismanagement
he says, — " All the offices of emolument, civil and military, and
the highest lines of commerce, are in the hands of stranger^

POYERTT OF TH£ COUIVTRT. 79

ho^ after a temporary residence, depart, with the capital they
K¥B accumulated. Under native rulers, even the extortions of
pacity, and the drains of tribute, returned into circulation, and
"omoted, in some form, territorial industry. Under its present
institution, the remittance, or rather tribute to Britain, car-
ds off every year a large share of the produce, for which noth*
« is returned."*

It may be interesting to some, and seems necessary in order
• give a general idea of British operations in India, to state the
Jaries of a few of the government officers. From these the
aneral scale of salaries may be deduced.

Rupees per annam.

The Governor-General receives. 250.000

" Members of Council (each). 100.000

" Judge of Native Supreme Court 50.000

^ Members of head Board of Revenue 50.000

** Secretaries to Government of India (each). 50.000

« Salt Agents from 5a000 to 5a000

^ Commissioner of Revenue 36.000

** Secretaries to Government of Bengal (each).. . .36.000

«< Judge of a Zillah or City. 30.000

While such salaries are paid to the civil servants of the Com-
any, they are by no means niggardly to their military officers ;
nd when it is recollected that they maintain constantly a stand-
ig army of 200,000 men ; that the military pensions are already
normous; that the recruiting and bringing to India of each
(ritish soldier costs the Company, on an average, five hundred
ollars ; that all the clothing and equipments of the army, and
aost of tlie luxuries of the officers and gentry, are manufactured
1 England, and that every expense of the Company, to say
othing of profits, must be drawn from the natives, — we can
carcely wonder that the country should be gradually sinking
ato desperate povertj% Tennent, author of "Thoughts on
(ritish Influence in India," estimates the annual savings of the
k>mpany's servants, sent home to England, at ten milUons
f dollars.

From time immemorial, the land has constituted the chief
ource of revenue in India ; and for plain and obvious reasons.
?he habits of the great body of tlie people are simple and uni-

* Walter Hamilton's Gazetteer of India.

80 Hua>iT8TAir.

Ibmi ; their diet is spare, and confined generally to a few artidef
of the first necessity ; their clothing is scanty and mean ; their
habitations poor and unfurnished ; what we term luxuries, are
eonfined to the opulent few. In all this the keen eye of the
financier sees nothing to touch ; and he is compelled to haye
recourse to the expedient of taxing produce in the aggregate.

The government share of rice crops is, on an average, about
fifty per cent ! But the mode of collection causes the cultivator
to pay about three fourths of his crop. The public treasury is
replenished by monopolies ; duties on exports and imports^ fixr
the most part heavy ; licenses for the sale of arrack and toddy ;
stamps; fees on judicial proceedings; &c The entire revenue
of the Company is probably about a hundrtd mSBiona of dcdlara

But the taxes on India are nothing compared with the oppres-
sions and miseries inflicted by her religion. No statistics can
measure these — no eloquence describe them. They must be
seen, to be understood. In vain poets describe her citron
breezes and palmy woods, her consecrated rivers, balsamic
gums, fingrant spices, and trickling manna. One vnde-s{Nread
shade rests on the scene. It is the kingdom of the god of this
world — an empire where darkness reigns, and the shadow of
death. At every glance, one is reminded of the prophet's forci-
ble description of a people who have forsaken God — ^ They
hunt every man his brother with a net ; that they may do evil vnth
both hands, earnestly ; the prince asketh, and the judge asketh a
reward ; and the great man uttereth his mischievous desire ; so
they v^rrap it up. The best of them is as a brier; the most
upright is sharper than a thorn hedge." Micah viL 3, 4

The following are the modem or living languages of Hindus-
tan: — Hindustanee, Bengalese, Cashmerian, Dogura, Ooch, Sin-
dy, Cutch, Gujeratty, Concan, Punjaub, Bicanere, Marwar,
Jeypore, Odeypore, Harowty, Malwa, Bruj, Bundlecund, Mah-
ratta, Magadha, Koshala, Maithila, Nepaul, Orissa, Teloogoo^
Camata, and Tamul. Except the Hindustanee, which is the
universal language of intercourse, all these are locaL

CHAPTER m.

Toyafpe to Singapore — Coasters — Prices of Passage in India — Straits of
Malacca — Harbor and Town of Singapore — Climate — Productions —
Commerce -— Islamism -— Population — Moral Character of Population — .
Qrang Louts -— Chinese Wedding — Missionary Operations — Malacca
— History of the Settlement — Extent — Population — Progress of
Christianity — - Anglo-Chinese College — Common Schools — Malay
Peninsula -— Origin of Malay Race •— IMvisions — Keda — Pcrak —
Salaigore — - Johore -— Rumbo -— Pahang — Tringano -— Calantan Pa-
tani — Ligore — Character of Malays -— Slavery — Language.

March 18th, 1837. Again at sea. The lapse often days,
since Mr. Day's arrival, enabled me to arrange with him yarious
plans of action, and to feel, on leaving Madras, that my work
there was done. I had already procured Mm a house, and some
furniture, in the midst of Teloogoo people, and near to the resi*
dence of George Vansomerin, Esq., than whom he could not
have a warmer friend; so that he entered at once on house-
keeping ; and his knowledge of the language will enable him at
once to commence some parts of his work. Few are the missions
blessed with so devoted a missionary, and few are the missiona-
ries blessed with so devoted a wife.

The " Thames," in which I this day embarked for Singapore,
is one of the huge vessels, lately belonging to the East India
Company, and has now a cargo of seventeen himdred tons.
The ample decks, the cleanliness, the little motion given by the
sea, the size of my cabin, the excellent table, and all other cir-
cumstances, form an agreeable contrast to the small coasters, in
which all my voyages in these seas have, with one exception,
been made. I feel truly thankful for this relief Continued in-
convenience, and exposure for so many months, and especially
my inland joiuney to Trichinopoly, had seriously impaired the
small stock of health with which I left home, and made me
doubtful of living to return. The truly paternal hospitalities
of Mr. V. and family in Madras have set me up, and my pres-
ent voyage is carrying on the improvement As the rest of my
tour will be performed in large vessels, I now set forward, not
only with a fair prospect of finishing the work assigned me, but
of regaining established health.

83 VXDIAJS C0ASTXK8.

In taking my leave, as I hope, of << country vessels," as the
coasters are called, I will just ** show up " a fidr average of thdr
eon^orta, drawn from my experience in seven such voyages^ By
this plan, I shall not hurt the feelings of any of those captains
whose eye may meet these pages, and at the same time aT(Md
telling the same story ** with variations " seven times over.

You find, on getting aboard, a cabin five or six feet square^
and are fortunate if in it you can stand erect, and still more so
if it have a port-hole, or any ventilation, except through the
scuttle, by which you enter. Here you eat with the captain, or
perhaps ofi* of a stinkiug hen-coop on deck. There can be no
awning on deck, because it would be in the way of the boom;
BO that you stay below, while the sun blazes on the plank OTor
your head, and keeps the thermometer m the cabin about blood
heat Your mattress is laid on a locker at night, and rolled up
in the day. Perhaps you may be able to swing it The seams
on deck, neglected and parched up, during a six months' diy
season, let the salt water on you in rapid drops, when the decks
are washed. If it be rainy season, your confinement below is
scarcely less unpleasant Trunks and small stores must occupy
the margin of the cabin, or be stowed where you cannot come
at them. If you attempt to write, three times a day you must
huddle together your papers, that the trunk or table maybe
spread for meals ; or if you eat on deck^ and so have uninter-
rupted use of the table, the heat and motion make study diffi-
cult Your cooking is by no means scientific. The fowls,
sometimes without the privilege of a coop, and lying on the
deck tied by the legs, " get no better very fast" The smallness
of the vessel makes her toss about most uncomfortably, when a
larger vessel would be quite still ; so that, if you take any thing
out of its place, it must be " chocked " again with care, or it will
"fetch way." As to walking the deck, there is hardly room to
turn ; and if there be, you must have either the sun or dew upon
you. But your worst time is at night Several must sleep in
the tiny cabin ; and the heavy, damp air, coming down the gang-
way, gives you rheumatism, without producing ventilation. You
perspire at every pore, till nature is exhausted, and you sleep,
fix)m very inanity.

There are other disagreeables, which, though worse , are hap-
pily not quite so common. Some of the captains have no means
of ascertaining latitude, and still fewer their longitude. Some-
times there is no chart on board. The cables, anchors, and
general inventory, are apt to be poor. Vessels in the habit of

BTRiktT OF MAJLACCA. 83

carrying rice, timber, stick-lac, &c^ have always mice, cockroaches^
centipedes, scorpions, and ants, in great abundance. In one of
my voyages, I killed nearly thirty scorpions in the cabin, and in
another, eight or ten centipedes. Thrice, on faking out of my
trunk a clean shirt, 1 found a centipede * in its folds. Large,
winged cockroaches infest all Indian vessels ; but in some they
creep about in every direction, day and night I had one lull
specimen of this. Such crowds lighted upon the dinner-table,
that we could hardly tell meat from potatoes. To drive them
amray and eat at the same time was impossible, for they would
keep off of a dish no longer than it was agitated. The captain
and I just dined patiently, each contenting himself with being
able to keep them out of his oi/vn plate. At night, they swarmed
in thousands on the boards and on the bed, eating our fingers
and toes to the quick. A hundred oranges, tied up in a bag, had
not been on board thirty-six hours, before it was found that
these cormorants had left nothing but the skin. It was a bag
fiill of hoUow globes ! Uncomfortable and confined as were the
voyages up and down rivers, in fiurman canoes, they were every
way more pleasant than these little voyages at sea.

These things ought not, perhaps, in strictness, to be called hard-
ships, but they ar^ inconveniences, which I found tended rapid-
ly to make me old, and convince me that voyages of this sort
cannot be a wise resort for invalid missionaries. I might in-
deed have gone more comfortably, had I chartered for myself
some proper crafl, or waited for larger vessels ; but I could not
think of so greatly increasing the expense, or prolonging my
absence. Those who pass only between great seaports, may
generally, with some delay, obtain good vessels, and the usual
marine comforts.

The prices paid for passages in India are startling to an Amer-
ican, accustomed to cheap locomotion. In general, they are two
or three times dearer in proportion to distance, than those of our
splendid New York and Liverpool packet-ships. Freights are
charged at rates equally exorbitant. Even at these prices, the
accommodations between unfrequented ports are generally much
worse than our little coasting packets.

The passage through the Strait of Malacca furnishes much
to interest the lover of wild scenery. Lofty islands, covered

* These are generally about two inches long, and the thickness of a pipe
stem. The bite is never fatal; but more venomous than our spiders.

84 snroAFOBX.

with forests perpetually verdant, are continually in sight Equft-
torial temperature spreads its delightful uniformity, and a
smooth sea imparts feelings of safety. Heavy squalls, howevei^
often occur fh>m the west, which the people here call Swmdnk
One is constantly reminded of being in the region of tfao
Malays, by the recurrence of the name Pylo^ which is their
name for ** island."

The whole strait has long been notorious for piracy; and
shocking instances of it, are even now often conmiitted on smeU
vessels. Blalays are far from considering piracy dishonoraUej
and many of their princes openly engage in it. Their old ro-
mances and traditions constantly refer to such cruises, and invest
them with all the glories of a crusade. According to thdr
Mahometan notions, no doom is too bad for ** infidel dogs," so
that Christians and pagans are robbed, murdered, or enslaved,
without compunction. Whatever else of the Koran their Sheiks
may conceal, tliey take abundant pains to proclaim the decrees
of merit for the foe of infidels.

Singapore, where we arrived April 19, 1837, lies in latitude
V 17', longitude 103° 51'. The harbor can scarcely be surpassed
for extent, safety, and beauty. Lofty islands keep the water
perpetually smooth, and seem to lock it in on every side. The
town has not an imposing appearance firom the anchorage, but
the fine hill in the rear, covered with vigorous grass, is a charm-
ing object to one coming fi*om other parts of India at the close
of tlie warm season, and who has scarcely seen grass fer six
months.

Numerous vessels, of various uncouth shapes, lie at anchor ;
while more numerous boats ply in every direction over the still
surface. The aspect along shore is busy, and the few European
houses, handsome and oriental. The settlement was made here
at the suggestion of Sir Stamford Raffles, in 1819. The next
year, it was declared a free port, and in 1825 its sovereignty was
confirmed to Britain by tlie Dutch government, which held
claims upon it, and by the sultan of Johore, within whose ter-
ritory it is embraced. The latter had a pension of about 24,000
Spanish dollars per annum settled upon him. Captain Alexander
Hamilton saj-s that, at his visit in 1703, the then sultan " made
me a present of the Island of Sincapure ; but I told him it
could be of no use to a private person." A miserable village of
fishermen and pirates was, at that time, the only remains of what
was, some centuries before, a flourishing Malay city, engrossing
the commerce of these seas.

▲FPEARAirCE OF THE TO WIT — CLIICATK.

The lapse of more than amoDth, in daily expectation of a vessel
\nf Siam, my next point of destination, gave me leisure to be-
Dme acquainted with the place, and to learn, from the best
ourceSy what is known of the tribes occupying the peninsula
nd adjacent archipelago.

Singapore is divided from -the southern point of tlie Malay
leninsula by a strait, in some places not over a quarter of a mile
ride, but formerly the highway of ships passing to and from the
yhiDa seas. The island is of unequal breadth, twenty-seven miles
ong, and containing about two hundred and seventy-five square
niles. A very considerable part has not yet been explored by
ihe JSnglish, and is probably uninhabited. Some twenty or thirty
nher small islands adjacent, belong to Singapore, but they are
diostly uninhabited. The town is on the south side of the island ;
and the direct track of vessels to and from the China seas, is
within the roads of the harbor. It is surrounded by abrupt
red sandstone hills, enclosing small, sterile, marshy valleys. The
highest of these hills is computed to be three hundred and fifty
feet high. On some of them are gentlemen's residences, but the
rest are rugged and dreary. The plain on the southern side is a
low sandy marsh, presenting those successive ridges, which indi-
cate that the sea, at no very distant period, has dammed itself
out Though without rivers, the island is well watered, and has
some boatable brooks and small nuUas, extending a few miles
into the interior. One of these, navigable for a mile or two by
large boats, passes through the heart of the town, and greatly
contributes to the convenience of commerce.

The town is more attractive than it seems to be from the har-
bor, and some parts are really beautiful ; but Martin, in his
** British Colonies," has dra>vn upon imagination in making his
picture. Instead of the houses being "generally of stone," with
** superb granite stairs," neither one nor the other can be found
in the city ! The best houses are of brick, and will not compare
with many in Calcutta and Madi-as.

Lying almost under the equator, the variation of seasons is
scarcely perceptible. The heat is the same, night and day, all
the year roimd ; seldom greater than eighty-nine degrees, or less
than seventy-five, A fresh breeze is always felt, though there is
no very regular monsoon. There is no rainy season, but a cloudy
atmosphere prevails a good deal, and a fine shower falls almost
every day in the year. Such causes give an energy to both
animal and vegetable life, scarcely found in other latitudes.
Plants of innumerable varieties crowd the forest, rendering

VOL. II. 8

86 suro^poRX.

human entrance impossible ; and myriads of ineects and r^itiies
people both land .and water. Corals, madrepores, and moUnsei^
charm by their novelty, beauty, and simplicity, and excite admim-
tion of Him who causes the earth to teem with happy ejD8teiio%
and with evidences of infiuite wisdom and goodnees. One flf
diese curious productions, a species of alcyonum, called '^Nep-
tune's cup," is said to be found no where else. It is a beautifiib
tough, hard, sponge-like goblet, capable often ef bolding fion
one to two bushels.

A more delightful climate there is not probably on eutik
Storms and hurricanes are rare, though showers oocur almoit
daily.

The following table is constructed fixmi precise metaorologieal
observations for the year 1835 : —

6 A.M. 3 P.M. 8 P.M. FUlofBaln.

Januaiy .78 86 83. .... .18 Inchee 8 tentfaiL

Felnruary 79 85 82 .1 « 5 '^

juarcn ....•..• /o ...... 04 .••••. ou ••'•••• Xv

xvpru ....a.... Ov .•••.. 04 ...... ox .. .....o

ju.ay ... .'.... .oi/. .... .04. .... .oiw. ..... .9

vune ......... ox ...... oft .••••. osb .......o

•Puiy ........ .ou. .... .o/ • . • • • .Oiw. ..... .4

August .79 82 81| 6

September. . . .82. .... .84 81. 3

October. ...... oU ...... oo ...... Oi« ••.... lU

November . . . .79. .... .82 80 7

x/ccem Der. ....//...... ou ..•.•• t*f ...... <Ai

The reader will do well to examine this table closely, and
mark how little is the variation of temperature, either between
day and night or the different months. I have omitted the
maximum and minimum, and virill only remark, the greatest cdd
known in the year, is about seventy-three degrees ; and the
greatest heat eighty-eight! The total fall of rain in a year,
averages about one hundred inches ; which, though much greater
than in most parts of the world, is but half that of Rangoon.

Every species of tropical production would probably thrive
here ; but the English have occupied it too sh<»t a time to make
fruits abundant For mangoes, durians, and all the £ner fruits,
they depend on Malacca. Experiments are now in progress for
raising the sugar-cane and nutmeg, on an extensive scale ; but
the latter, at least, vnll require eight or ten yeara, before the result

PRODUCTI — COMMERCE. 9f

m decidecL I viuted soiii6 of the nutmeg plantadon^ and, at
liie tree is little known, give a picture of the fruit ;
but 'would refer the reader, for an account of
IIm mode of cultuij^, &c^ to ^ Crawfiird's Indian
Arehipelago." The tree is of moderate size, and
tfw fiuit very like the peach. Outside is pulp, a
tlurd c^ an inch thick, then the mace, spread
Ofver a thin round shell, and inside that shell, the
nutmeg. When ripe, the pulp opens, as in the cut
Almost the only products for export are gambi- '
er, sago, and agar-agar. Gambler, or catechu, (formerly called terra
japonica, fh>m its being supposed to be an earth, and coming
firom Japan,) is produced by boiling the leaves of a species of
uncaria, and inspissating the decoction. It is used for chewing,
with betel-nut, over all the East ; and exported largely to England,
for tanning leather. Sago is brought in a crude state, resembling
sour arrow-root, from many islands, and is here refined and
granulated for the foreign market There are eight or ten sago
refineries at Singapore, some of which I visited. The price of
the prepared article here, is generally about two cents a pound.
Most of the powder, or crude sago, is brought fix>m Borneo, and
the islands round Sumatra. It is the pith of a species of palm-
tree. A good tree is said to yield about two thousand pounds.
Agar-agar {fucus saccharinus) is a sea-weed abundant along the
shores of the islands, chiefly exported in a dry state to China,
where it is converted into a rich jelly for the table, and sizing
for cotton goods and paper.

The commerce of Singapore consists in buying and selling
the commodities of different parts of the world. The imports
for consumption are very trifling, and, as has been stated, little is
produced for exportation; but almost every article of Indian,
Chinese, and European industry, passes through the hands of
the merchants. Native vessels, from every part of the archipel-
ago, find here a market, and obtain their supplies. A large
part of these are manned by Bugis, who ai*e the maritime men
of the islands. They come in prows carrying from ten to one
hundred tons, and carry from twenty to sixty men. They begin
to arrive in September, and to depart in December. The whole
number in a year, is about two hundred ; having in tliem, men
and women, at least twenty thousand persons. The name Bvgis
properly belongs to one tribe, on the Island of Celebes, but is
generally applied to the traders from every part of Celebes, from

86 SUfOiLFORS.

tbe coasts of Borneo, and from Booton, Bali, Lombok, and
Sumbawe.

The commerce of the countries in and around the China Sea,
would form an important and interesting theme for the political
economist From the elegant and civilized Chinese to tbe
wildest tribes which roam the interior of the most unknown
islands, all are animated and benefited by an honorable com-
merce, which existed for ages before the European found his
way into these seas. The savage Batta collects camphor ; tbe
Daya and Harafoora gather diamonds and gold ; the Sulu dives
for pearl ; the Malay explores his lonely shores for edible birds'
nests, or gathers the nutmeg and the clove, or sweeps the shore
for tripang and agar-agar ; the Bugis acts both merchant and mar-
iner, bearing these gatherings from port to port ; the Sumatran
furnishes pepper for all the world ; the more civilized Japanese
smelts ores, and constructs articles of elegant utility ; the still
more refined Chinese gives impulse to the whole by his luxuiy
and his capital ; while the Western world shares the precious
commodities, and returns the thousand productions of more
perfect sciences and arts. This vast, populous, ' and fiivored
portion of the earth, is that which the ancients, even so late as
the time of Constantine, regarded as untenable by man; in-
habited only by satyrs, centaurs, headless monsters, and human
pygmies.*

The extensive prevalence of Islamism among the islanders is
another subject yet untouched by the historian, and well worthy
of investigation. We are accustomed to ascribe the triumphs of
the false prophet almost wholly to Lis arms. But here, the stpord
has not made way for his doctrine. At this very day, while
Christianity waits to send forth her teachers, the Mussulman,
without support and without delay, insinuates his faith, and
idolaters turn in tribes. While in Singapore, I saw not less than
two hundred of these islanders, then on their pilgrimage to
Mecca.

The present population of Singapore amounts to 30,000 ; of
which there are only 7229 females. Of Europeans, there are
105 males and 36 females; Malays, 5122 males, 4510 females;
Chinese, 12,870 males, 879 females ; Klings, 2246 males, 102

* See Pliny and Strabo ; Homer's Iliad, book iii. j and a learned note
in Robertson's America; vol. i.

POFUUkTioir* 89

eiiial€0. The rest are fitigis, Balinese, BeDgalese, Negroes^
favaneae, Arabs, &c. ; with a few lado-Brittons, Armenians, &c.
[ saw one or two of the Papua, or Negro race of the Indian
liandn TheyresemUe the Afiican Negro in every particular^
but ave smaUeir. To account for the existence of two races, so
perfectly distinct, as the black and brown population of these
wiamiB, haft not been successfully attempted.

The gsowdi of liie place has not been equal to the expecta*
originaUy cherished by Sir Stamford Raffles, its founder,
the first two years of its settlement by the English, no
thaa two thousand eight hundred and eighty-nine vessels
entered and cleared firam the port ; of which three hundred and
^gfaty-three were owned and commanded by Europeana Their
united tonnage was 161,000 tons ! During tlie same period, the
value of merchandise, arrived and cleared in native craft, was
about five millions of dollars, and in ships about three millions
more, making about eight millions as the capital turned. It has
not grown fi>r some years at a similar rate, if at all ; and it is
quite uncertain whether the place can become of much greater
importance, till the various tribes in these seas become more
civilized and numerous, and consume foreign products more
largely.

As in every other part of India, each class of conununity pre-
serves the costume, manners, and religion of its ancestry. This
has long ceased to look odd to me. It requires but a short resi-
dence in the country to get accustomed to every sort of fashion in
dress, and cast of countenance.

The striking disproportion of females, who are but about one
fourth of the population, is owing partly to the laws of China,
which forbid the emigration of women, and partly to those cir-
cumstances which make the male sex preponderate in all new
colonies, and purely commercial places.

In gomg through one part of the town, during business hours,
one feels himself to be in a Chinese city. Almost every respect-
able native he sees is Chinese ; almost every shop, ware-room,
and trade, is carried on by the Chinese ; the hucksters, coolies,
travelling cooks, and cries common in a great city, are Chinese.
In fact, we may almost call Singapore itself a Chinese city ; in-
asmuch as the bulk of the inhabitants are Chinese, and nearly
all the wealth and influence, next to the British, is in their hands.
A large part of the Klings and Bengalese are ostlers, servants,
washermen, &c., to Europeans; and the Malays and fiugis
occupy portions of the city by themselves.

90 snmAPOiic.

As to the moral character of this naxed populatkni, it m difr
cult to obtain accordant testimony. Some gentlemen in Singir
pore considered the morals of the people at large, quite equal ts
those of similar sized towns in Europe. Others regarded thm
as far worse. Certainly opium-smoking, gambling, and m-
cleanness, are quite prevalent

Among the population of Singapore, is a very large number
of those wretched Malays called Orang Lout, or <* men of tlM
water;" and sometimes Orang Salat, or ''men of the straiti.*
Without any home on shore, they are bom and die on mtserabk
boats, scarcely large enough for a man to lie down in, at his
ease. Roaming about for fish and coarse firuits, they pick up
shells and coral for sale, and sometimes are sufiiciently succen-
ful in fishing, to barter with landsmen for sago, clothes, or a
little rice. They procure sago at about half a cent a pound, or
less, so that the whole expenses of a cx>mmon fiutnily of Orang
Louts do not exceed two dollars' a month. The agricultuFsl
Malays of the straits are a grade higher in civilization, but
deeply degraded. They contrive to live by the soil, or by
bringing in wood ; but scarcely one acquires the least skill in
any sort of trade. The average height of Malay men is five feet,
three and a half inches.

A Chinese population of so many thousands, gave me many
opportunities of observing the manners of this singular people.
One of these was a wedding, to which I had the pleasure of
being invited, through the kind offices of Mr. Ballistier. our Amer-
ican consul, to whom I was much indebted in other respects.
As I had no hope of such an opportunity in China, I gladly
availed myself of this. The family of the bride being wealthy,
the room containing the family altar was decorated both wi^
costliness and taste. The "Jas^ was delineated in a large
picture surrounded by ornamental paper-hangings. Huge wax
candles, delicate tapers, and suspended lamps, of elegantly
painted glass, shed round their formal light, though it was broad
day. On the altar, or table, before the idol, were trays of silver
and rich porcelain, filled with ofierings of sweetmeats and flow-
ers, while burning sandal-wood and agillocha, difiiised a pleasing
fragrance.

After the elders had performed their devotions, the bride came
slowly in, supported by attendants, and went through tedious
gestures, and genuflections before the idol, without raising her
eyes from the ground, or speaking. Her robe was both gorgeous

cmirfids wkdbino. 91

and gracefbl, covering her, in loose folds, so completely that
neither her feet nor hands could be seen. Beside the numerous
omaments and jewels, which bound up her profuse hair, she
wore several heavy necklaces of sparkling jewels, apparently
artificiaL When she had finished, an elder placed on her head
a thick veil, and she returned to her apartment We now waited
for the bridegroom, who ** tarried" a little, and the interval was
enlivened by tea, sweetmeats, betel-nut, &c. Three bands of
music, European, Malay, and Javanese, sent sounds of gladness
through the halls and corridors ; the friends passed about with
smiles and greetings ; the children, in their gay apparel, danced
joyously, they knew not why; — all was natural and pleasing,
but the slow and extravagant movements of a Javanese dancing-
girl, who, in a comer of the porch, earned her pay, little regarded.
At length it was heralded, " the bridegroom cometh," and im-
mediately many "went forth to meet him." He came vnth
friends and a priest, preceded by another band of music. His
devotions before the Jos, were much sooner and more slightly
done than those of the lady; and he sat down with the priest,
and a friend or two, in front of the altar, where had been placed
chairs, covered for the occasion with loose drapery of embroi-
dered velvet Refreshments were handed, till a movement from
within announced the approach of the bride ; and all eyes were
turned to meet her. She advanced very slowly to the centre,
veiled, as when she retired, and, after a few gestures by each
toward the other, the happy pair sat down together, her face still
invisible. Refreshments again entered, and each partook, but
with evident agitation and constraint Presently, she retired to
her chamber, followed by the bridegi'oom ; and most of the guests
dispersed ; but we were permitted, with some particular friends,
to enter with them. It was doubtless a handsome room in
Chinese estimation, but its decorations would scarcely please a
Western eye. The bedstead resembled a latticed arbor ; and from
the roof within was suspended a beautiful lamp of chased
silver, burning with a feeble light Standing in the middle of
the room, they renewed their bowing, and passing from side to
side, with a gravity and tediousness almost ludicrous, till he fin-
ished the ceremony by approaching and lifting the veil from
her head. We were told that till then he had never seen her !
She blushed, and sat without raising her eyes ; but, alas for the
romance of the thing — she was ugly ! A leisurely repast fol-
lowed, shared by themselves alone ; and probably forming the
ratifying feature of the solemnity, as in Burmah. Fifty dishes or

man wen befi>n tlieiii»aiew of which dbeytutod widiabw
fiiriu; but of coune the occMoa was too edienalto bo Mb-
■linr'nffid bj Teiitable eatiiig and drinkiiii;; When they roie
fiom the table» the bridegroom, aided by his aervaiity remofred
his outer robe, which had been worn as a dress of eemnonjyani
threw it on the bed, as if marking it fiv his own. Tlien, ad-
vancing respeetfiilly to the bride, her attendant raised die ftUi
of her dress, and he unclasped the cincture of the g aim en t
beneath. This act, so gentle, delicate, and significant, cloeed tfas
ceremoniaL He then returned to his own house till evenings
and eveiy guest retired — a capital system, allowing the faride
some repose, after the trying and tiresome ceremonies she had
performed. This was aJtwut four o'clock. In the evening a
sumptuous entertainment was given to the firiends of both par-
ties ; after which the bridegroom remained, as a son at home.

More refined deportment cannot be, than was ezhilnted by all
parties on this occasion. The guests were not all at one table,
nor even in one room ; but many tables were spread, each ac-
commodating Ave or six persons, and all diverse in their vianda
Servants were numerous, the silver and porcelain handsome, the
deportment of the guests unexceptionable, and sobriety universaL
Every thing testified the high claim of the Chinese to the char-
acter of a civilized people.

I readily accepted an invitation, a few evenings afterward, to
an entertainment at the same house. Order, delicacy, abun-
dance, and elegance, reigned throughout Of course many of
the dishes were new to me, but there were many also, in exact
English style. Among the novelties, I tried sharks' fins, birda^
nests, fish-maws, and Biche-de-mer. I think an unprejudiced
taste would pronounce them good ; but only that of a Chinese
would consider them delicacies.

From the first settlement of Singapore by the British, opera-
tions for the moral and religious improvement of the natives
have been carried on. Translations into Malay, and the printing
and distribution of tracts and Scriptures, engrossed most of the
time of early missionaries. In this department, a good deal has
been done ; but, so far as can now be seen, with very little suc-
cess Great efibrts have been made also in the way of schools ;
not only by the missionaries, but by the British residents, and
the government The latter has allowed, from the public treasu-
ry, one hundred dollars per month. Several Chinese schools,
and itill more Malay ones, have been constantly maintained.

SCHOOLS — CATHOLICS. 98

The principal authorities have, at times, exerted their influence
to induce the people to send their children ; and eren gone fix>ni
house to house to procure scholars. A multitude of children
have been in the schools, first and last ; and some hundreds have
received more or less instruction. But it has been found im-
possible to secure the attendance of scholars for more than a
few months ; and almost none have learned to read. What is
more lamentable, no case of conTcrsion has occurred among
the pupils.

No place in the East ofiTers greater facilities for tract-distribu-
tion, or a greater variety of nations and languages accessible ;
and perhaps at no point has this species of labor been earned to
greater extent Thousands and tens of thousands of tracts and
portions of Scripture, have been given away. Not only have the
Malay inhabitants been fully supplied, but thousands of Bugis,
Javanese, Sumatrans, Chinese, Mussulmans, Arabs, Kelingas,
Balinese, &c. So early as 1830, the Singapore Christian Union
reported that ^ in Singapore and neighborhood, our fiieuds have
gone round, half a dozen times, passing jfrom house to house,
and scattering tracts abundantly." Ever since, it has been vigor-
ously continued.

Not a single Malay in Singapore has made even a nominal
profession of Christianity ; nor are there any hopeful catechumens.
For a long time past, no one competent in the language has
resided here ; so that the only missionary efforts are the distribu-
tion of tracts, and some unpromising schools. Indeed, this has
been very much the case from the beginning, as previous mis-
sionaries were chiefly devoted to these labors and to authorship ;
and very little has been done in the way of direct preaching.
The history of this mission, now. twenty years old, is an item of
consequence, in our reasoning upon the modes of missionary
labor.

The Catliolics have two churches here — a French and a
Portuguese ; with several priests. They not only take charge of
those of their faith who reside here, but have brought over a
number of Malays, Chinese, and others, and have full audiences
on Sundays. Popish missionaries through India, so &r as I
could learn, are men of good morals. They live far more hum-
bly than any other missionaries, and mix much with their people.
Their stipend, in all cases which came to my knowledge, is one
hundred dollars per annum. Their converts are taught, from
the first, to contribute to the support of religion, and their teach-
ers, being unmarried, have few wants which these cannot supply.

Tbe SSMgKpon lirilufkiii, feuaded bj Sir Sluilhvi
iil899;liM muntained a fteUe exkteoee, but « nowliMfti
WputoQafooCmgofvigoraiidejqMiiflivaiieM. AnewbniUia^
large and commodkHu^ haa been prepared for it, to whieh k ini
soon be remoTed, after wfakh Ha courae of atody will be mon
eoDegiale, and ita Dumber of poiHla increaaed.

Singapoie bea^ firom tbe firal, been a alatioB of the Lcadn
Miammaiy Society. It beeame a atation of die AmaricMi Bo»d
of CommiaaioDera in 1834^ and ia now occupied fay Maam
Traoey, Dickinaon, Hope, TVavelli, and Nortfa, fiom that aoeiBtf,
— tbe three former giving themaelTea to Chineae^ and the ocben
to Malay. Mr. N. is a practical prmter, and baa ehaige of a
well-built, and amply-furnished printing-officer These mitajimt
riea have all been here ao veiy short a time, that their chief oc-
cupation haa been the acquiaition of language. They have,
however, a Malay and a Chinese school, and auperintend the
labors of a large number of Chinese printers^ who have been
eonatandy employed on the revised Chinese New TeaCament^
and various tracts, by Mr. Ghitzlaff and others.

The Church Missionary Society have recently made this a
station for the Chinese, and the American Baptist Board are about
to do the same. Rev. Mr. Squier, from the former society, has
been here a fow montha. While China remains inaccestoUe,
missionariea for that country must prepare themselves in other
places. Great commercial emporiums must be considered com-
mon ground to all persuasiona of Christians, in their operations
for tlie heathen ; and in several instances, such as Calcutta, Ban-
kok, Smyrna, &C., the missionaries of various sects live together
in harmony and good understanding. In such places, property is
safe, the press free, workmen plenty, and exchanges easy, while
uncertainties, and delays in procuring paper, and transmitting
books, are avoided.

A little country brig, of thirty or forty tons, carried me to
Malacca in four days, and back to Singapore in six, allowing me
a stay of one week. The steam-boat demanded a hundred dol-
lara, while this vessel would take me for fifteen ; and I could not
forbear, by the choosing the latter both ways, to save one hun-
dred and seventy dollars. But sorrow to the man who goes
often in country brigs! We were crowded with Chinamen
and Klings ; and though the accommodations did very well, for
their habits, they illy accorded with mine. Noise, stench, and
heat, ruled by day, and confinement, dampness, and vermin, by

MALACCA, m

Aiglit. My camp chair was the oaly seat ; aacl, tm there was 410
table, I ate ^m a 4M>ard on my knees. But •eatiiig was a bri^
buiiiess; for boiled rice, and dried fish-roesi all day and evoy
day, furnished no temptation to gastronomic excess. There
were indeed lots of stews f&r the Chinamen, to which I was
quite welcome ; but, either their smell, or thcar looks, satisfied
me to keep to the salt fish-roes, for in them there could be
*no noistake."

Through the prompt and abundant hospitalities of the British
resident and his lady, whose house, carriages, and attentions, were
put at my fullest service, and the kind communicatiyeness of the
missionaries, I wasaUe, during the week, to see and hear all •Chat
concerned my official ol]ject&

The city of. Malacca, formeriy embraced within the kingdom
of Johore, was taken possession of by Portugal in 1511 ; but her
authority was never well established in the interior, and the
possession neither benefited her commerce nor enhanced her
dignity. It was held by the Portuguese till 1641, when it was
taken by the Dutch. It was, after two years, taken by the Eng-
lish, in 1660 reverted again to the Dutch, and fiuidly passed
over to the English in 1825, and so remains. Why this location of
the settlement was chosen, it is difficult to imagine, unless be-
cause it was previously the chief town of the sovereignty of
Johore. The harbor is very bad, being on the outside a mere
roadstead, and all within so shallow, that ships cannot approach
the town, nearer than three or four miles. At low water, the sands
are bare, a mile from shore. The triffing river, on which the
town stands, keeps open a narrow, boatable channel to the town,
when the tide is out The location is eminently salubrious ; but
the commerce, which once made this place so conspicuous, has
passed to Penang and Singapore. I found only a small cutter,
like our own, lying at anchor, and was told there was seldom
more at one time.

The view of the town from the water, is picturesque and at-
tractive. An old fort and church, in ruins, occupy the prominent
elevation, while handsome houses, fronted by great trees, extend
along the shore. The roads are finely Macadamized with a fer-
ruginous clay, sofl when first dug out, but very hard afler ex-
posure to the air.

The district of Malacca extends about forty miles along the
coast, fi'ora Salengore to Moar, and inland to Rumbo, about
thirty miles. The population within these limits amounts to
twenty-two thousand, of which much the larger part reside in

MUJLCCA,

the town and suburbs. The Chinese form about one fourth ^
the whole; the rest are Malays, Klings, Arabs, &c. About
ftve himdred thousand pounds of tin, and the .same quanti^
of pepper, are annually produced and exported ; beside soma
gold, preserved fruits, and smaller, articles. Kice ia not raised
in sufficient quantity for consumption*

The city continues, fallen as are its fortunes, to be head-quar-
ters to the military force in the straits. The officers of six com-
panies of native troops, and the usual civilians, make a pleasant
circle of English society ; which brings with it, as usual, all the
artisans and shops necessary for a missionary's conveniencei
Living is remarkably cheap ; and as to fhiits, no place on eardi,
perhaps, transcends it in number or excellence. A gentleman,
not long ago, disposed to see how many varieties were in
season at once, ordered his Kansuma to procure all that mi^t
be in the bazar ; and the result was a desert comprising «eoen^
two difierent fruits. Few places in India have such a vari^
of agreeable drives, and, perhaps, none a more salubrious and
pleasant climate. It, however, is fast &ding away. The stillness
of death reigns through the streets; and even the laborious
Chinese, seem here to catch the general spirit of quiescence. If
the military head-quarters should be removed to Singapore, as
is not improbable, it will scarcely hold a place among English
settlements.

The reproach which attaches to the European colonial system
in India lies strongly on this city. For three centuries. Chris-
tians have ruled here ; yet we look in vain for evidences of an
amelioration in the general condition of the people. Their
troops have maintained rule, and their tax-gatherers have scraped
revenues, but our holy faith is not yet established ; nay, scarce-
ly can even a nominal Christian be found among the Malay
inhabitants.

The class called Portuguese * amounts to two thousand souls,
and are, for the most part, very ignorant and degraded. One
tenth of these are professed Protestants, probably the fruit of
intermarriages with the Dutch in former times. The want of
any minister to baptize, marry, visit, and instnict this class of

* This co^omen is assumed by every man in India, black, brown, or red,
native or mixed, who aims at superiority over the general mass, and can con-
trive to wear a hat and trousers. As to any descent from Portuguese parents,
it is, in thousands of cases, utterly out of the question.

MISSIONARIES. 97

persons, and the ignorance and poverty of most of them, has
caused a continual falling away, for a series of years, to the
Romish church. They certainly deserve a larger share of at-
tention than they seem to receive. A regular service is held for
them on Sabbath aftemoous, and schools are open for their chil-
dren ; but a pastor of their own caste, and daily ministerial ser-
vices, are indispensably wanted.

The late Sir Stamford Raffles, who took the deepest interest
in the wel&re of these regions, at that time under his control^
remarks — ''In our present settlement of Malacca, the impossibility
of procuring servants for wages, compels almost every person to
have recourse to slaves, and a considerable proportion of these
are pagans, being chiefly Battas from the centre of Sumatra,
Balis from Bali, Dayaks from Borneo, besides natives of Timor^
and the more easterly islands. Of all these that fall into the
hands of the English, there is perhaps not a single one that
becomes a Christian ; but the whole of them become MoslemSf.
and despise and hate their masters as infidels! Such is the
woful efiect of our supineness and indifference, which, if they
should extend to the E^t, would certainly not tend to the prog-
ress of general improvement among the Malays."

I was glad to spend as much of my time as possible with Rev.
Mr. Dyer, lately removed here from Peuang. He is far advanced
in the Chinese language, and preaches fluently, but has devoted
most of his time, for some years, to the preparation of a font of
Chinese metallic type. Wholly untaught, lie has devised his
own way, with great labor and patience, and has now, nearly
completed, punches and matrices for a beautiful Ibnt, wliich is
to embrace three thousand chai*acters. Each punch costs about
fifty cents. The size is three times larger than that of Marsh-
man's Bible,* and will be useful chiefly in the text of comment
taries and sheet tracts.

The mission to Malacca was commenced in 1815, by 3Iilne,.
who immediately established a Chinese school, took charge
of the Reformed Dutch church, and commenced the " Chinese
Magazine." Mr. M. brought with him from Canton a Chinese
teacher and printers ; and next year Leang Afa, the teacher, pro-
fessed the Christian faith. He was then thirty- three years old,
and has ever since maintained a holy and diligent career. I saw
much of him at Singapore, and derived from him many valuable

* This Bible is partly printed with metallic type, invented by Lawson, of
SeramporC; about twenty years ago, and used from that time successfully.
VOL. II. 9

98 MAJJLCCA.

facts. In 1817, Messrs. Medhurst and Slater arrived, and
English periodical, called the *^ Indo-Chinese Gleaner," was
tablished. Mr. Slater, after a year, went to devote himself to
the Chinese in Batavia. In 1818, Messrs. Ince and Milton came^
and assumed so much care of the schools, as to leave Milne
more at liberty to pursue the translation of certain parts of
Scripture, agreed on between him and Morrison. In 1818^ Dr.
Morrison founded the ^Anglo-Chinese College;" giving from ,
his own purse about six thousand dollars, and obtaining large |
assistance from various quarters. In 1820, Messra Fleming and
Huttman arrived, and, the year following, Mr. Humphreys ; and
in the next year Collie was added, and Milne died. The sub-
sequent history of the mission is known to the readers of mifh
sionary magazines.

During the above period, several other brethren settled in
Malacca, to devote themselves to the Malays ; by whom large
schools were established. At the period of Messrs. Tyerman
and Bennett's visit, in 1826, the Chinese schools contained two
hundred and fifty boys, and the college twenty. No instance of
the conversion of pupils had then occurred.

Malacca is chiefly conspicuous in the missionary world for its
college. It has ample buildings, and highly improved grounds,
with about ten thousand dollars at interest. The location is
vnthin the city, on the margin of the sea ; and was granted it by
government There have presided over it, in succession, Milne,
Humphreys, Collie, Kidd, Tomlin, and Evans. The last arrived
in 1833.

Like other " colleges " in the East, it is rather an elementaij
school. The pupils are taught from the alphabet upward, and
retire from a fiill course, with a decent knowledge of English,
and the common rudiments of science. About sixty or seventy
thus educated have left the institution, who generally reside in
the straits, employed as porters, runners, and under-clerks. 1
could not learn that any of them are more than nominal Chris-
tians. Until lately, the school has for some years been very
small ; but it is now increased to above seventy, of all ages, from
six or seven years upward. Mr. Evans not only has large expe-
rience in teaching, but is a skilful financier ; and the prospect of
utility was never so great as at present He has lately baptized
several pupils, on their fully embracing the Christian system,
some of whom he hopes are truly pious: The whole cost of an
in-door student, including food, apparel, washing, &c, is four
dollars per month.

BCHOOIiS — CONVERSIONS. SI9

Tbe syBtem of common schools has been largely pursued by
London Missionary Society for twenty years. By the
.kindness of Mr. and Mrs. G^ 1 was able to visit most of them.
niey form a curious variety — Chinese, Malay, Tamul, Por-
tngtiese, and English ; some for boys, and some for girls ; and
Biunberlng in the whole not less than eight hundred pupils.
The resident English have not only liberally contributed to
the expense, and shared the labor of management, but have
been unceasing in their pains to gather and encourage schol-
ars. Little benefit has resulted, in comparison to the means
and die money employed. I regretted to see so much charity-
money bestowed on Portuguese schools. The cause of benevo-
lence is not concerned to perpetuate tliis language in the East ;
and the spoken language is so corrupt that the pure Portuguese,
learned at school, is almost useless. It has not been possible to
obtain in this language a proper supply even of school-books ; much
lesa will the pupils find valuable reading, even if they become
able to understand it Nearly three hundred pupils, the descend-
ants of Chinese fiithers, married to Malays, &c., study Chinese.
No objection is made by tliese parents to the use of Christian
school-books, nor to the pupils attending worship on the Sab-
bath, and other religious services.

A number of German brethren have recently settled at Ma-
lacc.1 to labor for the Malays, some of which are siipi>ortod by
individuals in England and elsewhere. The school formed by
Mr. Tomlin, (and still principally supported by him,) for all sorts
of boys to be taught in English, is snil maintained, taught by one
of these. Its plan is happy, and many have learned not only the
English language, but the rudiments of geography, grammar,
aritlimetic, &c.

As to conversions to Christianity, jMalacra has few instances ;
so few as to call for anxious inquiry. As to the natives, it re-
mans a moral wilderness. The schools, so vigorously and so
long maintained, have not been prolific of spiritual good Thou-
sands who have attended them, are now heads of families, and
ample time has elapsed, to allow the efforts to show matiu-e
results ; but no Malay Christian, that I could learn, is to be found
in the place ! Even the Protestant, Portuguese, and Dutch in-
habitants have diminished in number.

The Malay race is classed by itself, in geographies, as the fifth
great division of the human family ; but with what propriety I
do not see. They have, certainly, no peculiarity of form or fea-

100 OftlGIN OF THE HALATS.

tiire, to entitle them to this distinction, and history, so fiur fltuzi
fiimishing a claim, shows them to be a milled race, of compamr-
lively recent origin.

The original country of the Malays is not known. The eyl-
dence is in favor of Sumatra. Both at Celebes and Sumatn,
there are prevalent traditions, which assign the period of their
origin to the middle of the twelfth century. About that time, a
celebrated chief of Celebes went on an exploring and trading
voyage to the westward, from whence he had occasionally seen
natives. In the course of the expedition, he put into a river of
Sumatra, where a large number of his followers absconded in a
body, and, passing into the interior, settled the region of Men-
an-k^-bo. Obtaining wives from the adjacent tribes, and po9*
sessing more civilization, they gradually formed a new race, and
rose to dominion. Most of them had been slaves, obtained fivm
the Moluccas, and employed as wood-cutters and drudges to the
fleet Hence they were called Malays, from Moda, to bring, and
aya, wood. Sir Stamford Raffles affirms that, to this day, the
people of Celebes look with great contempt on Malays ; and are
in the habit of repeating the origin of the name. A general
similarity between the Malays and the inhabitants of the Moluc-
cas has been often remarked. And, what is more remarkable,
the Malay language is spoken more purely in the Moluccas than
on the Malay peninsula.

If this origin of the Malays be true, it accounts for the simi-
larity which has been remarked between them and several of the
tribes of tlie ai'chipelago, such as the Eidahans and Dayas of
Borneo ; the Sabanos, of Magindano ; the Tagats and Pampan-
goes, of the Manillas; and the Biscayans, of the Philippfnes.

On the arrival of the Arabs in Sumatra, the Moslem faith rap-
idly supplanted paganism, and this by proselytism, not by force.
Whether their language had before been reduced to writing, is
not clear ; but it now was written in the Arabic characters, w^ch
continue to be used. Since the introduction of European influ-
ence, the Roman alphabet is becoming prevalent, and the larger
part of those who can read, do so in that character.

The new nation extended their conquests and colonies, till all
Sumatra yielded them feudal homage. In the thirteenth century,
they passed over to the peninsula, and took or built Malacca and
Singapore. Gradually extending their dominions and coloniefl)
the chief seat of their power was transferred to the new territory ;
and the chiefs of Sumatra began to throw off* their yoke. Pro-
ceeding to acquire power and numbers, they at length not only

MALAT PEfVINSUUL. 101

regained Sumatra, but conquered the Sunda, Philippine, and
Molucca Islands, with many smaller groups, and are now found
in all these regions, as well as Borneo, Luconia, and many
ctiier islands ; but without any centre of unity or power, without
liCerature, freedom, or civilization. They have sunk to insignifi-
cance, and are apparently still sinking in national character.

To elucidate and establish the filiation of the Malays, and
many of their neighbor tribes, a full comparison of the languages
of Farther India, is greatly wanted. Dr. John published a work
cm this subject ; but it is much too imperfect to be of any value.
No one man can do more than contribuie to the undertaking.
The Rev. Mr. Brown, missionary, at Sudiya, in Asain, is making
exertions to obtain comparative vocabularies of as many of the
Castem languages as possible, and, we presume, will succeed in
presenting a valuable contribution toward this desideratum.

At what period the people of Menangkabo embraced the
doctrines of the prophet, does not appear. The conversion of
Malacca and Acheen took place in the thirteenth century ; but it
is uncertain whether Menangkabo was converted previous to this
date; although the religion is said to have been preached at
Sumatra, as early as the twelfth century. About A. D. 1160, a
colony issued from the interior of Sumatra, and established
themselves at Singapore, where a line of Hindu princes con-
tinued to reign until 1276. Whatever may, in more remote
times, have been the nature of the intercourse between foreign
nations and Menangkabo itself, we know that Singapore, during
the period noticed, was an extensively maritime and commercial
state, and, at the time when the Portuguese settled at Malacca,
embraced the largest portion of the commerce between the Bay
of Bengal, and the China Sea.

The Malay peninsula (called by the natives Tanah Malayuy
"the land of the Malays") is the only great country wholly occu-
pied by this race ; and is now divided into the kingdoms of Keda,
Perak, and Salengore, in the west ; Johore, in the south ; Pahang,
Tringano, Calantan, Patuii, and Ligore, in the east There are
states in the interior less known ; viz. Rtimbo, Johole, Jompole,
Gominchi, Sungie-Oojong, Sciimenauti, Nanning Ulu, Calang,
Jellye, Jellaboo, Segamet, Kemoung, &c. Some of these are
divided into sei)arate tribes ; as, for instance, Jellaboo consists
of the tribes of Bodoanda, Tannah-Dottnr, Muncal, and Battu-
Balang. Scrimenanti embraces twelve tribes, though the popu-
lation does not exceed ten thousand. Sungie-Oojong, Johole,

102 MALAY P£imi8in.A»

Scrimenanti, and Rumbo^ are called ** Menangkabo states." Tb0
entire population is very small ; some of the states numbering
not more than two thousand souls. The whole peninsula, ei-
cept Rumbo and Johore, is claimed by Siam; but many of
the tribes are independent, and of others the subjection is but
nominal.

Scattered oyer the peninsula, without specific districts and
locations^ are several wild tribes, of whom almost nothing is
kiv>wn. East of Malacca are Udai, Sak-kye, and Rayet-Utao,
and some negro tribes. These all go under the name of Onmg'
Bentia, or country people. These have each a language or difr
lect, but largely tinctured with Malay. Further north, on the
mountains, are negro tribes ; but evidently distinct from the
African race. Of these tribes we hope soon to know more.
They seem to be a distinct variety of the human race ; differiog
both from the African, and the Papuan of New Guinea ; and in-
ferior to both. The average height of the men is about four feet
eight inches. These Malay negroes are thinly spread over a
considerable district, in and in the rear of Malacca, and thence
northward to Mergui; amounting in the whole to but few
thousands. There are at least five tribes of them — the Joc-oons,
Sa-mangs, Oo-dees, Sak-ais, and Ry-ots. All of them are much
below the Malays, and some scarcely above the apes ; dwelling
in trees and clefls of the mountain. A few have learned a little
Malay, and occasionally venture among adjacent tribes, to piuv
chase tobacco and utensils ; but of letters they know nothing.
Nor have any religious observances been discovered among
them. Their only weapon is the sumpit, a small hollow cane,
about eight feet long, through which they blow short arrows,
often poisoned at the tip. One of these, together with the quiver
fUll of poisoned arrows, was presented to me by the Britidi
resident at Malacca. The sumpit is somewhat ornamented,
but as a warlike weapon, is quite insignificant

I cannot insert a tenth part of the memoranda, gained from
travellers and merchants, respecting the different principalities
of the Malay peninsula. A few geographical notes for the use
of those who would closely survey the world as a missionary
field, I feel bound to insert

Of Malacca I have already spoken.

Keda, generally written Queda, is divided fix>m Siam by the
Langa River, in lat 6° 50^ ; and from Perak, on the south, hy

KBSA— PfiRAK. 103

Kiirao River, in about lat. 5° SCX. It extends from the seaboard
but nine or ten miles; but embraces several large islands.
Many rivers enter the ocean along its coast ; some four or five
of which are* large, for a little way. The population does not
exceed 200,000, embracing four classes — the Malays, Siamese,
Samsams, (or Mahometan aborigines,) and Samangs.* The
latter resemble the Rayet-Utans, further south, in the region of
Rumbo; but their complexion is darker, and hair generally
corled. From the earliest knowledge of Europeans, it has been
tributary to Siam. But ** it does not appear, either by writings or
tradition, that Queda was ever governed by the Siamese laws or
customs. There would then have been some remains, had there
been any affinity between them. The people of Queda are
Mahometans; their letters Arabic, and their language Jawee;
their kings originally from Menankabo, on Sumatra. But, as
Queda was very near Ligore, a province of Siam, they sent,
every third year, a gold and silver tree, as a token of homage to
Ligore. This was done to preserve a good correspondence ; for
at this period the Siamese were very rich and numerous, but no
warriors ; and a considerable trade was carried on between Ligore
and Queda. After the destruction of Siam, the king of Ava
demanded the token of homage from Queda, and received the
gold and silver tree : when Pia Tach drove away the Burmans,
and built a new metropolis, the king of Queda sent the trees to
Siam ; and has kept peace with both ; paying homage sometimes
to one, sometimes to the other, and often to both." f

The British province of Penang was given by the raja of
Johore in 1785, to Captain T. Light, as a marriage portion with
lus daughter. Captain L. transferred it to the East India Com-
pany, which received also a section of territory on the main laud,
now called Wellesley Province, and allowed the raja ten thou-
sand dollars. The city of Keda stands at the mouth of an in-
considerable river, in lat 6° 5^,

Perak is bounded by Keda on the north, and by the brook
Runkup, which divides it from Salengore, on the south ; making
about one hundred miles of sea-coast. Tlie nominal boundary
to the west is Tringano ; but the central region is little known,
and the frontier indistinct The population, exclusive of tribes
in this central region, is thirty-five thousand. But little of the

* Descendants of the intermarriages of Mala} s and aborigines,
t Grieg's Report to Sir S. Raffles.

104 lUMAY PXVIlftUIiA.

knd is cultiyited, the inhabitants depending on the sale of tiOi
•nd on fishing, for the purcliase of rice and other neceesariw
Nearly all the people are slaves, and perhaps not one in An
hundred can read.

This country was, for a hundred and fifty yMre^ under tks
Dutch. No trace of them remains but some ruins of GxtBf on om
of the Dinding IslandH, and on the adjacent coast

Saleitgoile is divided fix>m Perak by die brook above named;
which enters the sea about lat dP 59^, a litde to the north of a
larger stream called the Bemam.r It extends along the ooiflt
about one hundred miles, but has a very trifling populatioiL
Some Bugis, fi*om Celebes, have held the government ifor half a
century past Tlie people are notorious for piracy, man-stealing,
and ferocity. The to^vn of Salengore has but about four hun-
dred inhabitants.

JoHORE embraces the whole point of the peninsula below lat
2° 10', and all the contiguous islands in the Straits of Malacca
and China Sea as far as the Natunas. It formerly extended much
fiirther north. Some of these islands are from &ve to ten miles
in diameter ; but most of them are small, and too sterile to be in-
habited. The province seems to have gradually diminished, in
consequence and populousness, since Europeans first knew it.
Its numerous inlets and harbors afford shelter to swarms of
pirates ; the fear of which has destroyed the native trade, which
once enriched the province. Among western Malays, the term
Johore is synonymous with pirate. The city of Johore, to which
the raja resorted, when driven by the Poituguese from Malacca,
lies ten miles up a river of the same name, which opens at the
eastward of Singapore Island. It is no longer the residence of
the raja, and is now a miserable fishing village, of about thirty
houses. It is, however, the only place where, at present, a
mission could be established. The surrounding country is
chainpain and fertile, but scarcely inhabited.

Singapore Island was purchased from tlie sultan of Johore, at
an enormous price ; and a pension is still paid him of two or three
thousand dollars a month. lie is, however, strongly suspected
of being prominently concerned in the piracies of his subjects.
Former sultans, coveting foreign commerce, had sought to have
a colony of the English on Singapore Island. Captain Alexan-
der Hamilton declares that the whole island was offered to him,
as a free gift

PAEANe — TRINOANO. ' ] 05

RuxBO is the only important inland state. It lies back of
Ifabcca, about sixty miles from the coast ; but the boundaries are
sot settled. The population does not exceed ten thousand.
The people are quiet industrious agriculturists, strikingly diverse
fifom the daring inhabitants of the coast Their dialect has the
peculiarity, among other particulars, of substituting o for a in all
terminations. Beside the Malays, who occupy the fertile por-
tions of country, and bear rule, several of the Orang-Benua, or
eountry people, are scattered over the rugged sides of the moun-
tains, preserving their clanships inviolate, and speaking each a
several language. It is doubtful whether a foreigner could re-
side in Rumbo during the rains ; but missionaries might be sta-
tioned at Malacca, and spend the dry season on the hills, as those
(^Tavoy do among the Karens.

Paha^ng extends from Johore to Kamamang, in lat A° 15f, and
is supposed to contain about fifty thousand souls. It pro-
duces annually about one hundred thousand pounds of tin. The
Chinese ^o procure it spend the entire proceeds in opium, of
which they consume annually about twenty-five chests. The
chief town lies on the Pahang River, and is a wretched place,
of eight or ten thousand inhabitants, of which two hundred
are Chinese, mostly opium-smokers, and degraded. It has
constant intercourse with Singapore, and would be a healthy
position for a missionary. The interior is wholly unknown,
and very thinly peopled.

Tringano extends from Kamamang to the River Basut, which
divides it from Calantan ; and extends from the China Sea on
the east to Perak on the west It is a champain country, of
low hil!s, producing a great variety of delicious fruits. The Siam-
ese do not send governors or make laws, but are content with
the annual present of a gold and silver tree, and the acknowl-
edgment of vassalage. The population is about forty thousand.
The principal product is tin, of which they gather annually about
six hundred thousand pounds. The men not only wear a krees,
like other Malays, but oflen two, and sometimes a sword also ;
quarrelling much, and working little. Their women do most of
the business, and Chinese work the mines.

The town of Tringano is at the mouth of the river of the same
name, at the iiead of a shallow bay. Ships may approach within
two miles. The river is not so wide as that of Pahang. The
town is illy laid out, and dirty, but contains nearly half the popu-

106 MALAY FBimfltl.A*

lation of the state. In the time of Captain Hamilton's visit, (1790^)
it contained one thousand houses, about half of which wen
Chinese. About three thousand Chinese occupy a quarter to
themselves. The only brick buildings are a mosque, and a
custom-house, neither of which are respectaUe. The countiy
has long enjoyed foreign commerce, and the rulers are inteffi*
gent. The present sultan or raja is friendly to foreigners, and ^
anxious to have them settle there. He would probably recem
and protect missionaries, except (hey were Dutch.

Calantan extends from the Basut to the Barana River, being
the next petty state north of Tringana It is probably more
populous than Pahang or Tringano, but has never been exj^red
by foreigners. Siam has allowed them to retain their native
princes, and make their own laws, and this right is now guar-
antied by the treaty between Siam and England. More than a
million pounds of tin are annually exported, beside a considera-
ble amount of gold, most of which is carried to Singapore in
prows. The city is close to the sea, but several miles from the
mouth of the river on which it stands. The position is salu-
brious at all seasons, and foreigners are safe under the preseut
government Intercourse with Singapore is not unfrequent

Patani extends from Calantan to about lat 8° north, and is
divided from Keda on the west, by high mountains. It was
once the most populous and well-cultivated part of the penin-
sula, yielding much tin, gold, grain, and salt The English had
a factory here so long ago as 1612, and James L sent the queen
a letter and presents. It was for a hundred years the chief port
in these seas for Surat shipping, and maintained a trade not only
with Western India, England, and Portugal, but with Goa, Mal-
abar, the Coromandel coast, Siam, Camboja, and China. Their
commerce attracted pirates from Borneo and Johore, and gradu-
ally failed. Few traces now remain of its ancient prosperity.
A few years since, the district fell under the displeasure of Siam,
and war ensued, which was terminated by the present Prah Klang^
who, in 1824, laid waste the country, and brought away all the
inhabitants he could find. These were distributed to the princi-
pal families in Bankok as slaves, and this fine region now lief
almost depopulated and desert

LiooRE. This part of tlie peninsula is rather a section of
Siam, than a tributary. The governor is a Siamese, appointed

CHARACTER OF TRJC MAI.ATS. 107

kqf the king. His authority extends to the border of Penang ;

and since the devastation of Patani, that district is part of his

tnrritory.

The Siamese call this country JLactnu Its only seaport is the
dty of LigCMrey which for a long time enjoyed a large foreign
commerce. The Dutch had a good brick &ctory here, and resi-
dent agents, in all the early part of last century. The foreign
tnde is extinct, but the town is still flourishing, and keeps up
trade with all the chief places in the Gulf of Siara.

The dialect resembles that of Keda, and seems to be corrupt
Siamese, scarcely intelligible to the people of Bankok.

All these provinces are, we hope, soon to receive the gospel ;
but at present only Pahang and Tringano offer positions for
new missions, and these by no means promising. Whoever
commences in these places, should first learn Malay, and com-
mence the mission unmarried.

The Malays are every where Mahometans. Tiie period of
their becoming so, must be placed near the commencement of
their existence as a nation on Sumatra, but is not known with
exactness. Wherever they have spread, they exhibit a vigorous
spirit of proselytism ; and even where force has never been at-
tempted, they have drawn many thousand pagans to the worship
of the true God.

Commercial and piratical in their character and aims, they have
seldom settled far from coasts and harbors ; so that the language
does not prevail among interior tribes, either on the ])eninsu1a or
the islands of the Lidian Archipelago. Over these tribes they
claim some authority, and take precedence by superiority of
civilization, but their language, manners, and government, remain
unchanged.

A general character can hardly be assigned to a people
scattered over so many countries, and intermingled every where
with indigenous tribes. They have generally been set down as
distinguished for vileness and treachery. This opinion has
doubtless been derived from mariners; for till recently, few
others knew much about them, and the piratical tribes alone have
brought themselves into general notice. It cannot be denied,
however, that European and American captains on the coast of
Sumatra, and elsewhere, have, by their frauds and oppressions,
contributed not a little to drive these people to make reprisals.
Disregard of human life, revenge, idleness, and piracy, may

106 MAI^AT FE1IUI8UI.A.

perhaps be considered common to Malays. The uniyend,
practice of going armed, makes thoughts of murder fiunilin
The right of private revenge is universally admitted, even by ibt
chiefs, and the taking of life may be atoned for by a small sum
of money. Treachery has been considered the leading trait of
Malay character ; but probably the idea is exaggerated. Their
religion teaches them, like other Mussulmans, to use treacheiy
and violence toward infidels. But there is full reason to beliere^
that, in intercourse with each other, domestic and private virtue!
prevail to as great an extent as among other heathen. As to
piracy, it is deemed not only a pure and chivalrous occupatk%
but religiously meritorious. It is carried on by prince, peo|^
and priest, and is not less a matter of pride, than of rapacity.

In the arts of peace, they are greatly inferior to their neigh-
bors of Java, Japan, Cochin-China, and Siam. They have even
less mechanical ingenuity and skill than the Bugis. No portion
of the Malays are much civilized, and some are truly savage.
The feudal system prevails every where, in all its integriQr. I%e
chiefs claim the time and services of the people, at any time,
and for any purpose, warlike or peacefiiL

In no part of the East is slavery more common than among
the Malays. Not only do princes sell their vassals, often without
fault, pai'ents their children, and debtors their creditors, but a
slave trade is kept up with activity, both by sea and land, and in
various places. One of the chief resorts for this purpose, on
the west coast of Sumatra, is Pulo Nias, the largest and most
populous island of that region. The Acheens, and several other
maritime tribes, both in Sumatra and elsewhere, have, for many
years, been systematic and vigorous in this horrid business.
Sir Stamford Raffles took measures to collect authentic and
exact statements, on which the British government might act,
but left the island before much was done ; and the effort has not
been renewed. A late writer in a Singapore newspaper says—
** Board any of the numerous prows between Nias and Acheen,
and you will not fail to find young men and women, either
kidnapped, or purchased from the petty rajas, who obtained
them by similar means, or more frequently by tlie laws which
give in pledge to creditors, the bodies of debtors." Such slaves
are often seen, exposed for sale, in the villages of Sumatra.
The permission of this traffic is a deep disgrace to the Dutch
authorities on that island, who have power to prevent, or at least
greatly to curtail it It is generally asserted, in the straits, that

MltnOKAmiSS — SCHOOLS. 109

>rtiV»M>Ti thenifldTM engage in this trade ; and it is certain that
hsy often are alavB-holdera.

The whole mass of the common people are virtually slaFes^
imdar the native governments. Every chief not only consumes
Ihe labor or the property of his people at pleasure, but sells the
isrvioee or the persons of his vassals to any persons who will
porehaae tfaeoL

Soeh as desire to read further in regard to the natives of the
Mhiay peninsula may consult Blancard, Commerce des Indies;.
Yiientyn, Oud nnd Nieu Ostindien ; Van Wurmb, Memoire de
Bttsvia ; Popham's Prince of Wales's Island ; Asiatic Researches ;.
lfal•den^l Sumatzm; and Grawfurd's Indian Archipelaga

Hie Malays hove long had missionaries ; few of which have
done much in the way of preaching; Preparing and distribu-
tiiig the Smptures and tracts, have engrossed most of them. No-
kss than seven versions of the Malay Scriptures have been
printed ; and so early as 1820, Dr. Milne stated that forty-two.
Christian books had been prepared. Many thousands of
these have been distributed; but, so fiur as I can learn, with
seaicely any perceptible benefit I did not hear of a single
Malay convert on the whole peninsula. In examining into the
lessons for this &ilure, two considerations occur, which sufficient-
ly account fbr the want of conversions, in the case of those who
have been devoted to making and distributing books, rather
than preaching the word. The books are not intelligible to the
generality even of good readers ; and the number of those who
can read and understand a book on an unaccustomed subject,,
(except those taught in missionary schools,) is probably not much
more than one in five hundred.

Schools, also, have from the beginning, engaged, to a consid*
erable extent, the attention of Malay missionaries ; and the Eng-
lish residents at Penang, Malacca, and Singapore, have strenu-
ously aided. But the jealousy of the Hadjees, which cannot be
overcome ; the difficulty of retaining pupils long enough to ac-
quire any valuable knowledge ; the habits learned by the children
at home ; and the cessation of all literary pursuits firom the time of
leaving school, — have almost neutralized the benefits conferred.
Very few of the pupils have so much as learned to read well in
their own language, and still fewer received such an education
as some of the Bengal schools confer.

The Malay language is pronounced, by all who attempt it, an
easy language to acquire. This is doubtless true, to a certain
voii. n. 10

110 MALAT FEirurSULA.

extent It has no sounds difficult for Europeans to pronounce;
its construction is exceedingly simple, and its words are few.
There is no change made in words to express number, persoi^
gender, mood, and time ; and the same word is often used as
a noun, adjective, verb, and adverb. Even the tenses to verin
are seldom varied. Hence, so much as is necessary for eommoo
purposes is soon learned. But, whoever would speak on liteniy
or religious subjects, finds great difficulties. The absence of
grammatical inflections and particles creates great ambiguity, and
makes the meaning so dependent on the juxtaposition of wordi^
as to make great skill necessary to propriety in discoursing on
any critical or novel subject Beside this, the language is so
poor in abstract terms, as to make it impossible to avoid using a
host of new words. These are adopted by one fix>m the Eng-
lish, another from the Arabic, another from the Greek, and
another from the Portuguese, according to the learning or &ncy
of his teacher.

In translating the Scriptures, it has been most common to
adopt from the Arabic ; and sometimes, I am told, this class of
words amoimts to one Jifth of the whole! It may easily be con-
ceived that, as these must be, in general, the veiy words which
give meaning to the whole sentence, the mere Malay reader is
utterly unable to understand the book. It would be well if only
one fifth of the words were other than pure Malay ; but Walter
Hamilton, in his East India Gazetteer, states that, after repeated
trials, one himdred words in a Malay book were found, on an
average, to contain twenty-seven primitive Malayan, fifty Polyne-
sian, sixteen Simscrit, and seven Arabic ; leaving thus only one
quarter of the words proper Malayan !

The preparation of books ought certainly not to be made
prominent, in a case like this ; but rather the preaching of the
gospel. The poverty of the language, and the necessity of using
new terms, though embarrassing in oral communication, is much
more so in writing. In speaking, explanations may be made;
sentences may be uttered in half a dozen diflerent ways, and
truth effectually imparted. Thus, in time, the way will be pre-
pared for books, which will be hastened by a proper attention to
schools.

CHAPTER IV.

lUce leave of British India -— European Manners -— Voyage to Bankok

— River Meinam — Paknam — Audience with the Governor — Situa-
tikm of Bankok — Floating Houses — General Appearance — Visit to
the Pra Klang; Servile Forms of Politeness — Chow Fah} Singular
Castoon— Era Nai Wai — Pra Amramole — Present of an Elephant;
Of a Cochin-Chinese Slave — Population of Bankok — Police of the City

— Climate — Wats — Houses — Streets — Bridges — Somona Codom —
History of Siam— Extent of the Empire — Population — Personal Ap-
pearance of Siamese— Dress — Amusements — Military Force — Com-
merce — Prices of Provision — Fruits — Currency — Character — Degree
of Civilization — Slavery — Language — Establishment of the Mission —
Bfission Premises — Worship — Converts — Bankok a Station for the
Chinese — IMstribution of Scriptures — Need of more Laborers — Constitu-
tion of a Church — Harmony of Sects — Roman Catholics.

As 1 am now taking my leave of British Indian society, and
have but slightly alluded to the mode of living, it is incumbent on
me to say a few words on that point The houses are large and
airy, with whitewashed walls ; the floors are matted ; as little
furniture as possible kept in any room; and punkas depend
from every ceiling. Every bed has its musquito curtain of
gauze, which is tied up during the day, and let down about sun-
set, before the insects get abroad. A taper, in a tumbler of
oil, burns all night in each room, by which, before day dawn, you
dress negligently for the morning drive. At dawn,* a servant
brings a cup of coffee, with a slice of dry toast, and announces
that the horses are ready. An hour's ride brings you home
again, and you shave, bathe, dress, read, &c., till breakfast, which
is at ten o'clock. Here the family meet, and enjoy social inter-
course during a leisurely repast, when they separate again, the
gentlemen to their place of business, and the ladies to their
domestic employments. Calls of ceremony are made about
noon ; always, of course, in some close carriage, to avoid the sun.
About one or two o'clock comes tiffin, or lunch, as we say, con-
sisting of plantains and other fruits, Avith nice bread and butter,

* It will be recollected that between the tropics the sun always rises not
far from six o'clock.

112 8IA1I.

and water, bottles of which have been cooled in tubs of mokt
saltpetre.

Merchants, and gentlemen whose business is at a distance from
their dwelling, do not come home to this meal, but have it
brought to them. As to dinner, there is a diversity, the plainor
sort taking it at five o'clock, and then riding out; the mon
&shionable riding first, and dining about half past seven or eight
But the sunset drive, all regard as indispensable. Indeed, Eu-
ropean life in India seems a constant struggle to keep off
death. The standing and favorite dish, both at break&st and
dinner, is rice and curry ; the former boiled plain and dry, tfie
latter consisting of prawns, fish, or fowl, stewed with abundant
gravy, seasoned almost to burning heat, with ground chilliefl^
ginger, and onions. Instead of water, the curry is mixed with
the expressed juice of rasped coco-nuts. The dinner is gener-
ally sumptuous, and the etiquette quite ceremonious, but &r re-
moved from stififhess and reserve. The waving punka overhead
entirely prevents discomfort on account of the heat So far as
my experience goes, English society in India is far more in-
telligent and agreeable tiian among the same grade in England ;
perhaps because they are all travellers ; and travelling not only
instructs and polishes, but tends strongly to promote liberal and
enlarged feelings. After dinner, music and rational conversation
fill up the evening, and all retire in good season. A cup of tea
is generally handed round in the course of the evening ; but
spirituous liquors ai-e sinking into disuse.

Missionaries in Hindustan live in a similar manner, only as
much more plainly, as ministers in this country live more plain
than their wealthy parishioners. The missionaries in Burmah
have breakfast and dinner earlier, and omit tea. They do
not keep horses, and take their morning and evening exercise
on foot They seldom get any other meat than fowl, or any
other vegetables than rice, sweet potatoes, stewed cucumbers,
and f)umpkin8. Plantains are often fried or roasted, and are
very fine. At stations where there are English officers, there
are always bakers and herdmen, who daily furnish excellent
bread, and plenty of butter and milk. Their houses are described
and represented Vol. I, p. 72.

Leaving Singapore on the 24th of May, 1837, 1 arrived off the
River of Siam, without accident, in eleven days. We came to
anchor on the edge of the bar, amid numerous junks just
leaving Siam ; but could scarcely discern the low shore, distant
fifteen or sixteen miles. The river, called by the natives Memoan^

RIVER MEUTAM — PAKNAM. 113

or *< mother of waters," is difficult to find, as the coast is a dead
level, scarcely above low-water mark. The bar is ten or twelve
miles broad, with but one and a half fethom's water at low tide,
and extending many miles east and west Vessels, therefore, can
pass and repass with only part of their load. Even thus lightened,
Ihey generally ground once or twice ; but, the bottom being soft
mud, except at its outer edge, they take no harm. The south-
west monsoon, concentrating here as in the end of a funnel,
vaises a heavy sea, and makes it a wild place for vessels to remain,
as they must for several weeks. Formerly, ships trading to the
Meinam River, anchored in the fine harbor of Ko-ci-chang Island,
where wood and water are easily procured ; but the great distance
renders it inconvenient A smidl fleet, however, in possession
of that cluster of islands could effectually blockade Bankok, and
cut off all its commerce.

Taking a seat with the captain in the pinnace at dawn of day,
on the 4th of Jime, we crossed the bar in about three hours,
scarcely discerning the mouth of the river till we were in it
I looked in vain along the beach for the nocto,* said to be taller
than the ostrich. The mouth of the river is about a mile and a
half wide, and presents nothing but gloomy mangrove, the deadly
silence of which was only broken by the occasional screams of
unseen birds. The region is precisely similar to the Sunder-
bunds of the Ganges.

We had scarcely ascended a mile, before there came on one
of those violent squalls of wind and rain, common here at this
season. On every side had been seen boats ; but now, in a min-
ute or two, they were either upset, or, being near the shore, had
run aground for safety. Being in the mid-channel for the benefit
of the tide, we were near being overturned. As we dashed on
before it, using every effort to reduce sail, and expecting at least
to lose the mast, we passed some of the natives swimming with
perfect coolness beside their boats, and preparing to right them.
It was difficult to feel that we must not stay to aid them ; but the
o^r would have been matter of ridicule.

Three miles above the mouth of the river, we reached the
town of Paknam, where all foreigners are required to stop and
report themselves. The first impressions of Siamese towns
were by no means exhilarating. Led through rain and mud,
along narrow, filthy passages, called streets, and a stinking bazar,
we reached the mean and dirty house of the governor of the

* So called by the Siamese^ from noc, great, and to, a bird.

10*

114 SIAM.

province. The hall of audience presented a burlesque on ofr
oial pomp. It was a large room, open in front, with part of tb
floor raised, as usual, a few feet, destitute of carpet or matting;
From the lofty ceiling hung an odd diversity of small chanA»-
Hers, apparently never used, and against the very tops of ^
pillars stood Dutch and Chinese mirrors, leaning forward
in which one sees himself drawn out into more shapes tfatt
Proteus ever knew. Chinese paper-hangings and pictani^
neither new nor nice, covered most of the rest of the roof anfl
Vfralls; the whole grim with dust and snu^e. His lordsliiiH
perfectly naked, except the cloth round his loins, sat on a mat,
leaning on a triangular pillow, covered with morocco. The
attendants crouched, as before the highest monarch, and yn
alone dared to assume any position by which the head should be
more elevated than his. A multitude of questions was asked,
respecting the ship's size, cargo, armament crew, &C., and my
name, office, countries I had seen, objects in coming to Siam,
and intended length of stay ; all which were carefully written
down to be forwarded post haste to Bankok.

Preferring exposure to the rain, in the open pinnace, to our
catechetical tedium, we embalmed as soon as released, and a^
rived at Bankok (distant about twenty-five miles) a little after
dark. At Paknam, and several places above, are forts on weB
selected points, and somewhat in European construction. Most
of the way, the shores are iminhabited, and appear to he in
process of being redeemed from the sea, the high tide laying
thera under water. Almost the only growth, at first, is the attap,
or dennee, called by Siamese chak, (Cocos-nypa,) and of whidi
the best thatch is made ; and the mangrove, (JRhizophora,) in
several varieties. This latter plant grows over all the East, cm
the boundary between salt and fresh water, and sometimes in
the salt water itself; and is a principal agent in extending the
deltas of great rivers. It grows down to low-water maiii, its
thick, strong roots resisting almost any wave. The fiuit, club-
shaped, and a foot long, bending down the branch to Yfbkii
it hangs, reaches the earth, vegetates, and forms an arch.
These arches, roots, branches, and strong stems, obstructing all
currents, the quiet water deposits its sediment, and earth gains
on ocean.

The latter half of the way presents almost a continued suc-
cession of houses, embowered in a dense growth of various
palms, and other fruit-trees. Behind, as I afterward found, are
rich and extensive paddy-fields. The river at the mouth is, per-

BunoK — ruuTure sodbem. US

p leaeaDB to one, and at

BonkiA is about twen^-fiTe nulw from the sea; lat. 18^
4Kf, long. 100° 34'. It coven a caiuidenble ialaiid in ibe
■mr, and oxtondj altwg both ahoreg for aeveial miles, sbov« and
ImIow. Ita aspect diffira from that of an; other city, and but
Ar ito iia>v«lt;, would be rattier repulsive. Little is seen on
; the rtrer, but a row of floating houses, on eaidi

ride, small and mean ; most of them open in front, and con-
taining a little shop. The goods are arraiiged on a succes-
sioD of shelves^ like stairsj to the height of about three feet;
and the shopman rite alongside on the floor, as seen in the
picture. The front of the centre part, or shop, opens with famges
at the top, and is propped up in Ihe day-time with a bamboo,
making a good awning. The sides and rear of the building are
occupied by the fiimily. The whole stands on a raA of largo
bamboos, which is renewed every two or three years. They are
kept in place, not by anchors, but by large poles on each rade,
driven into the muddy bottom.

The Chinese junks, which make annual voyages to Bankok,
had not all gone, when I arrived, (early in June,) and a lai^
number lay moored in tlie mid-river ; some of great size,
[H^bably eight or nine hundred tons. A few handsome x>agodas,
and other sacred edifices, rise from what seems to be ■ fores^
but is in reality a great city. Innumerable boats, of every size,
move about the river. The larger ones are at once boat,
dwelling-house, and shop. The smallest are scarcely so large
as a coffin. Hucksters, and retailers of all sorts, ply about with
their wares exhibited on the deck of their batteau; one person
paddling at each end, generally a woman. Cargo-boats, yawls,
sampans, pleasure-boats, Sm^ make up a scene of estraordinaiy

116 8IA1L

variety, animation, and novelty. Canala and ditches, navigable a I ft
part of every tide, are ramified in ail directions, and reach ahniMt |ii
every house. The river is at once the highway, the canal, ti»
exchange, the market, and the pleasure-ground.

It was always interesting to see how a Uttle good nature pie* ]l
vented all confusion and danger. No one resents occaakxiil
concussions. Smaller boats always give place to larger. Tlw
paddles, held perpendicularly, occupy much less space than otn^
and all ply with consummate dexterity. If a man or woman be
knocked into the water, there is a laugh on both sides, and no
one is alarmed. If a skifif is upset, the boatmen soon hold it
edgewise, and, with a sudden toss, throw it up into the air. ft
comes down quite dry, and they get in and proceed as if nothing
had happened. Even children of five and six years push about,
wholly alone, in boats not much larger than themselves, with the
edge hardly two inches above the water. I sometimes saw these
overset ; but no one offered assistance, and the child showed no
apprehension. On one occasion, as I was passing up the river,
a little girl, of six or seven years, coming suddenly out of a little
passage between two houses, struck her skiff so hard against
my boat, that hers was upset, and she was thrown off several
feet, while her little paddle flew in an opposite direction. She
looked for a moment perfectly amazed, and then burst out into
a fit of laughter! My boatmen never thought of stopping, and
I soon perceived, on looking back, that she had recovered her
paddle, and was swimming behind her boat, still upside down,
pushing it toward the shore. A case of drowning is seldom
heard of.

The memoranda sent up by the governor of Paknam to the
Pra Klang, or minister of foreign affairs, produced me an early
invitation, through one of his writers, to call and see him. As
soon as the ship came up the river, and put me in possession of
proper clothes, and a present, Mr. Jones and myself waited on
him, at an hour agreed upon.

The great man, the apartment, and the ceremonies differed litde
fi*om the scene at Paknam, except in being more respectable.
His lordship seemed about fifty years old, and possessed that
important item of honorable distinction in the East — corpu-
lence. His entire dress being only a cotton pornome, or wrapper
round the hips, corpulence seemed any thing but attractive in
this case. He held his present office during the embassies of
Colonel Bumey and Major Crawfurd from England, and of Mr.
Roberts from our country ; and is certainly a clever and enlight-
ened man.

YldlTS TO NOBLKS — REFRESHMEITTS. 117

We were not required to take off our shoes, or hold down our
beads ; but those in attendance, among whom were native princes
ind a Portuguese interpreter, crawled about on hands and knees^
ivith demonstrations of the deepest homage.

My reception was kind, frank, and respectful. He put many
loestions respecting my age, clerical rank, objects in coming,
ivitat other countries I had ever seen, what I saw and heard
nnong great men at Ava, the condition of Burmah, probable
niccessor to the throne, &c He had heard, but in a very vague
DBanner, of the death of the Burman king, and was delighted to
[»btain information from one who had so lately visited Ava.
rhe answers were all written down by a secretary, and read over
to him, to be sure of their exactness. They were probably to be
communicated to the king. Fruits, sweetmeats, and cheroots
were frequently handed, and for drink, tea in little cups, and the
juice of pine-apples in flowing bumpers. How dignified,
rational, and virtuous, such beverages, compared to the spirituous
potations demanded by the hospitalities of more civilized races!
I found it difficult to introduce religious subjects, except to pre-
sent him thanks, on behalf of our Board, for his kindness and
protection to the missionanes, which, though scanty, has
been valuable ; and to descant a little on the nature of true re-
ligion, and the policy and justice of free toleration.

1 discovered none of that dislike of Burmah, which Cravjrfurd
mentions as so great, that any allusion to that country was a
breach of politeness. On the contrary, my having recently spent
several months there, and seen " the great government men," led
to numerous questions, not only now, but at each succeeding
audience.

At a subsequent visit, I saw my first Siamese acquaintance, the
governor of Paknam, submitting to the same servilities. Before
the king, this lordly Pra Klang, himself and the highest nobles
creep as abject as the poor slaves do here. With us, an inferior
stands ; but, in Burmah and Siam, he seats himself if we stand,
squats if we sit, and leans down on his elbows if we sit on
the floor. To hold the head higher than a superior or equal, is
an affront Hence, when the servants bring in refreshments, they
are obliged to place the waiter on the floor, as soon as they reach
the apartment where the master and guests are, and come in
crawling on their elbows and bellies, shoving the refreshments
before them. I always observed the attendants on the young
nobles walk about on their knees, to avoid the elevation of their
heads above that of the young master.

118 tiAii;

There was less of dignity and intelligence displayed by Si>
amese nobles than I met with in those of Burmah. The mig^
nitude and value of the diamonds and rubies I had seen id
Burmah, in what country I had seen the best, and the enet
size and hue of the young white elephant I had seen at Madnu^
seemed topics of primary interest ! The Pra Klang produced
some of his gems, which were indeed of astonishing size ani
brilliancy. A full band of Siamese music played, during the
interview, at a little distance, in a manner far from disagreeable.
Subsequent visits introduced me to Chow Fah Noi, or his
royal highness. Prince Momfanoi, Pra Nai Wai, Pra Am-ii-
mo-le, &C. The circumstances did not so differ from those to
the Pra Klang, as to afford new views of national character, and
I therefore offer no description. One of the present ting's
sons, and other "nobles," as they are caUed, visited the mission-
house during my stay, but neither in dress, deportment, intellect,
or information, inspired the least respect Mr. Hunter, the onJ^
European merchant in Siam, offered to introduce me to the
king ; but for various reasons I thought it inexpedient

Chow Fah Noi is the probable successor to the throne ; and in
&ct is now entitled to it, rather than the present monarch, who
is an illegitimate son. Should he assume the government, Siam
must advance from her present lowliness and semi-civilizatioo.
No man in the kingdom is so qualified to govern well. His
naturally fne mind is enlarged and improved by intercourse
with foreigners, by the perusal of English works, by studying
Euclid and Newton, by freeing himself from a bigoted attach-
ment to Boodhism, by candidly recognizing our superiority, and
a readiness to adopt our arts. He understands the use of the
sextant and chronometer, and was anxious for the latest nautical

almanac, which I promised to send him.
His little daughters, accustomed to the sight
of foreigners, so far from showing any signs
of fear, always came to sit upon my lap,
though the yellow cosmetic on their limbs
was sure to be transferred in part to my
dress. One of them took pride in repeating
to me a few words of English, and the other
took care to display her power of projecting
the elbow forward. This singular custom,
as has been mentioned, prevails in Burmah,
Lii47 aittinff. wid is deemed very genteel.

Pra Nai Wai (or Koon Sit, as his late title

PUSSSlfT OF AN ELEPHANT — OF A SLAVE BOT. 119

i) is son of the Pra Klang, and resembles Chow Fah in
fluuiy points, both of character and attamments, but does not
•peak f^nglish so welL They are intimate firlends, and will
parobably rise together. His influence must prove auspicious to
tibe best interests of his country.

Pra Amramole is superior of a principal monasteiy, and
flmahes the list of Siamese who understand English. GutzlafT
qpeaks much of him, in his journal, as his ^'pupiL" He reads
English, but does not speak it, and has, in addition to the exten-
HVB and costly library of his institution, many good English
books, maps, &c I greatly admired his pure and simple man-
ners, and extraordinary good sense. His knowledge of the
system of Christianity is not smalL He has read our Scriptures,
and heard much of them explained and enforced by Gutzlaf^
Jones, and others ; but, alas ! he remains a heathen.

None of these distinguished personages manifested any other
than the most friendly feelings. On making my farewell visit
to the Pra Klang, I noticed some slaves pushing a young ele-
phant through the gate into the yard in front of the audience-
halL He was just weaned, and came reluctantly, but gently, into
the midst of the prostrate crowd, manifesting no dislike to the
strange costume of Mr. Jones and myself. When I had caressed
him a moment, and admired his smooth, glossy skin, I was told
that he was a present for me ! What could I do ? The vessel
had dropped down, and passed the bar, and it wasi too late now
to get water or provisions for such a passenger. Fearful of giv-
ing offence, by refusing so great an honor, (for only nobles are
allowed to own and use elephants,) I showed why it was not now
convenient to take him, and begged that they would give me
instead, an ankusj or elephant-hook, such as is used in Siam.
The poor little elephant was accordingly withdrawn, and the
hook sent to my boat I brought it home as a keepsake and
curiosity. But it is a ferocious instrument The iron head or
hook Aveighs four and a quarter pounds, fastened to a handle
of very heavy wood, about four feet long. A blow might
be struck with such an instrument, which would break any
elephant's skull.

The most interesting gift was a slave boy, about fifteen years
of age, brought from Cochin-China, a prisoner of war. The
king had given him, with others, to Pra Nai Wai, who, finding
him to be a boy of uncommon cleverness, had lent him to the
Rev. Mr. Jones, that he might learn English. Having noticed
him in that family, and hoping that he might, at some future day,

190 8U1L

oarry the gospel to Cochin-Chma, or at least prove a bleflsingtB
Siam, I asked the prince, his master, to set him fiee, that bt
might return with me to America, and receive a trade and edfr
cation. He chose not to set him free, lest it might ofiend te
king, but gave him to me before witnesses. After accompanyii^
me to Singapore, Malacca, and China, he came home with me to
the United States, and is now engaged in acquiring the trade ef
a carpenter. If it should hereafter seem proper, he will be soil
to an academy a few years, before he returns to Bankok.

Few places have their population so variously estimated at
Bankok. Gutzlaff makes it 410,000 ; a vniter in the Singapon
Chronicle, 150,000 ; Crawfurd, veiy trustworthy in his statistia^
50,000 ; Hamilton, from 30,000 to 40,000. Mr. Tomlin makes
the whole Siamese population 8,000 ; but Mr. Abeel computes
the priests alone at 10,000. I took some pains on the subject,
inquiring of the chief men, counting the houses in some sec-
tions, ascertaining the real number of priests, &&, and am of
opinion that the city and inunediate suburbs contain at the
most about 100,000 souls. Within the walls there cannot be
more than 3,000 or 4,000 people. The 350,000 Chinese, which
have, by Gutzlaff and others, been set down to Bankok, I was
assured by several of the princes, is the sum of all such resi-
dents in the kingdom. Id the city and vicinity are probably,

Chinese and descendants 60,000

Siamese 30,000

Cochin-Chinese, Peguans, Tavoyers, Malays, .

Portuguese, &c., 10,000

100,000

There is, however, no mode of ascertaining the true census,
and every ti*aveller will make his own guess.

The number of Chinamen increases, though a large part of
them go back to their country after a few years. Loubiere, who
visited Siam in 1677, estimated all the Chinese then in the
country at 3,000 or 4,000. The price of their passage is but six
or eight dollars, and it is thought that 1000 emigrants arrive
annually. The variety of their dialects drive them to clan-like
associations, which not only keep them reserved and cold toward
each other, but often engage them in injurious animosities. The
three principal classes speak respectively the Mandareen, Can-
ton, and Tay-chew dialects; the latter being much the most
numerous.

POLICE — CUHATE. 1521

lie city has no mayor, and little police of any kind. Each
It man exercises supreme power over his slaves, which often
rant to several thousand. Each class of foreigners have their
d man, before whom causes are heard. There is little liti-
on among Siamese. No one dare carry a complaint to a
sr without a bribe ; and most persons choose rather to sufier
ignities and injuries, than complain. Gambling prevails to a
litful extent, especially among the Chinese. The licensing
. management of the << hells" is &rmed out by govern-
tit to an individual, who is said to pay about thirty-three
osand dollars per annum for the privilege. He generally
WB rich on his bargain, though his income is only an eighth
all sums won. Opium-smoking is very common, and the-
ctice increasing.

The climate of Bankok may be called hot, but as pleasant
I salubrious, probably, as almost any city in the East The
je of Mr. Crawftird, when here as English ambassador,
runted to a hundred and thirty persons. They were very
onyeniently lodged ; and their stay was during the four worst
Dths of the year; yet no death, or even indisposition, oc-
red, except a casualty.

November, December, January, and February, are the winter
nths. March, April, and May, are hot The rains begin the-
; of May, and continue through September, and occasionally
the beginning of November. Even in the height of the wet
son, it seldom rains so much and so long, as to be tedious.,
the beginning and close of the season, most of every day is
J, and often several days successively. It is, on the whole, a
y pleasant part of the year. The following is an abstract
n a register kept for one year by Dr. Bradley : —

Cool Season,

Mean temperature of November. 79.51.

*< « <* December. 77.83.

u u u January. 79.86.

u u a February 80.77.

u u u Cool season 7a99.

Hot Season,

Mean temperamre of March 84.38.

u u u April 86.3a

u u u May 84.5a

u u u Hot season 85.09.

VOL. n. 11

192 8IA1C

Wet Season.

Mean temperature of June 84.781

u u a July 83,7&

u u u August 84.081

u u u September... 83.6^

« « « October. 83L2&

a u u Wet season 8a96L

Mean temperature of the Year 88l57.

Mean range of thermometer, about 13^.

The sacred places in Bankok are caUed Wats. They codimC
of a spacious grove, containing pagodas, temples, image-hoaflesy
dwellings for the priests, and various minor structures used
in particular observances. The pagodas do not differ greedy
from those of Burmah, but are smaller and less nuaieroua. The
priests' residences are generally less sumptuous than those of
Ava, but are oflener built of brick, and have tiled roofia. I saw
some not only well furnished, but elegant ; and aa imposing as
carving and gilding, in bad taste, can make them.

In and around Bankok are more than a hundred Wats, occn-
pying all the best locations. As some of diem embraee sevend
acres, they cover no small part of the site of the city, and are
the only pleasant parts of it. Paved and shady walks, clean
courts, and fragrant shrubberies, form a strong contrast to tbe
vile odors, rude paths, and spreading mud, encountered every
where else. The style of building and decoration is, in aU,
more or less Chinese ; but generally with incongruous additioQS
of Portuguese, Siamese, or Peguan artists. Griffins, balustrades,
granite flagging, &C., imported from China, are found in the best
Wats. Most of the buildings are of brick, plastered on the
outside, and wrought into an absurd mosaic, with Chinese and
Liverpool cups, plates and dishes of all sizes, broken and whole,
so set in as to form flowers and figures! A more grotesque
mosaic there could not be.

One trace of Egyptian architecture is universally found, both
in sacred structures and private; viz., in the tapering shape
of doors and windows. Pagodas here, as elsewhere, are plainly
of the family of the pyramids. The Burmans make stupendous
pagodas and monasteries, while the image-houses and zayats are
comparatively small, and often ti-ifling. On the contrary, the
Siamese construct trifling pagodas, and small and detached
priests' houses, and bestow their wealth and labor in erecting

BAinCOK — 80M0NA CODOM. Ui

TMt fanage-hoiises or temples. These are msde tMteffdful tb
ffiamese taste, by pillars, gilding, historical paintingB, aod Chinese
tinseU If ever Christianity become prevalent in this country,
it will find in these structures an ample supply of chtkrches.

One cannot avoid contrasting the size and costliness of the
sacred edifices with die meanness of the city in other respects.
The houses are small and rude, and the streets in general nothing
more than ibot-paths, overgrown with bushes, bamboos, and
palms. Every species of filth and offal is throvni among these
bushes; and the state of the air may be supposed. Every few
rods, a canal or ditch is to be crossed ; and a log, or plank or
two, without a handrail, is generally the only bridge; those
of the principal thoroughfares are better, but none are good
or neat Of the numerous canals, not one is walled up or
planked, except sometimes to secure a Wat Most of them
are left bare at half-tide, presenting a loathsome slime^
and filling the air with stench, beside being useless half the
time. Not an efibrt seems to be made by the authorities to
improve the city. Hindus make tanks, wells, bridges, and
choultries for the public good; but no such efibrts are known
in Siam. Such works are so much less meritorious, according
to Boodhism, than the erection of sacred edifices and supporting;
priests, that private munificence is led by superstition thus to
expend itself; and the rulers are too selfish to supply the
deficiency.

Several writers speak of the Siamese worshipping a god called
Somona Kodom. Among others is Finlayson, who attempts to
translate the name, and says, ** The founder of the Siamese re-
ligion has various names, one of which is Somona Codom, that is,
*lfe who steals cattU^^! How he got this interpretation he does
not say. The American ambassador, Roberts, adopts the
same mistake. He says, " Somona Kodom, the cattle-stealer, a
Singalese, was the missionary who first propagated this religion
in these parts " ! Somona Codom is but another name for
Graudama; and the Siamese have no other deity. Their lan-
guage having no letter g*, c is substituted ; and, as final vowels
are generally omitted, Gaudama becomes Caudam, or Codom.
Somona is merely a title, and means "priest" — the priest
Codom. In the word Boodhoy they change b into p, and d into
t, making it Pootah, or P^hidcu They generally write it Pra
Pootah Chow, or the « Lord God Boodh."

The Siamese call themselves Tot, (pronounced He;) theShyans

AfljeaD 7\»-ra,or « the Great Tu.* By the Barmuus Siem k
called TwHoy firom the name of the former metropoliB^ and the
people they call Yudia Shfonj or Yutkas. The Aaamese, tliB
BtjBOBf and the Siameae eyklentiy epnng firom a common stock;
the Shyana probably being the parenL Their existence, as an
independent people, is probably of no Tery ancient date. They
hare history, carrying back its dates to the time of Somona
Codom, B. C. 544 ; but their credible records reach only to about
1S50, at which time Ayutbia, the old capital, seems to have beea
founded. Before this, their capital was lAkontai, in the Lbob
country. They seem to have been at one time subject to Cam-
boja, as is declared in the records of that country. The ftct
that the Cambojan language was once that of the court, and re-
mains so to a considerable extent, tends to confirm this position.

The region of Siam seems to have been known to the early
Romans. There are good reasons for supposing it to be the
country called Siruty by Ptolemy and Cosmas ; though that term
may include also Camboja and China.

The first notice of Siam, by European writers, is an account
of an overland expedition against Malacca in 1502. Crawfurd
states that, from 1567 to 1596, Siam was subject to Burmah. In
1612, an English ship ascended the river to A-yut-hia, then the
metro])olis. Nine years afterward, the Franciscans and Domini-
cans introduced Popery. In 1683, Phaulcon, an enterprising
Greek, became prime minister, and introduced a respect for
European customs and nations ; but was cut ofiT before he had
accomplished any great improvements in society. In 1687, the
misconduct of some English merchants, at Mergui, ended in
their l)eing massacred ; and in the following year, some which
had settled at Ayuthia were expelled the kingdom. Contests
for the throne distracted the country from 1690 till 1759 ; and
during this interval, viz. about 1750, Alompra, the victorious
founder of the present Burman dynasty, seized Mergui, Tavoy,
and Martiiban, and overran the whole valley of the Meinam.
During the war, some of the principal citizens moved to
Chantabon, a province on the east side of the Gulf of Siam, and
thus escaped tlie presence and exactions of the Burman armies.
Among those was Pye-ya-tak, son of a wealthy Chinaman by a
native woman, who gradually gathered followers, and made
■uccessful resistance to tlie new dynasty, till, at length, he drove
the Burmans from the country, and assumed the throne. With
a view to commerce, he made Bankok tlie metropolis, instead of
Ayutlua, and, after a successful reign, died in 1782.

FOPULATIOIV — PERSONAL AFPEARAlfCE. 1S5

The kingdom is now larger and in a better state than ever
before. The Tenasserim provinces are indeed lost ; but it has
aequired Keda, Patani, Ligore, and most of the Malay peninsula.
Jt has recently acquired one of the most valuable and fertile
aectionfl of Camboja ; embracing the rich province of Bata-bang.
Hie present boundary, in that direction, is on the Camboja River,
enending from about lat 12° to 14° north. Including the dis-
trictB just named, Siam extends from 7° to 19° of north latitude,
bounded by the Tenasserim provinces on the west, Burman Lao
and China on tiie north, Cochin-China on the east, and the Gulf
of Siam on the south. The extreme length is about eight hun-
dred miles, and the average breadth about one hundred.

The population of Siam is probably about 3,000,000. Of
dieae about 800,000 are Shyans, 195^000 Malays, and 450,000
Chmese, leaving the number of proper Siamese 1,500,000.

In 1750, the whole population was computed by the French
missionaries at 1,900,000. Our late ambassador to Siam, Mr.
Roberts, estimates the proper Siamese at 1,600,000; Siamese
Laos, 1,200,000; Chinese, 500,000; Malays, 320,000.

The countiy is described by Mr. Gutzlaff as one of the most
fertile in Ana; and by the Encyclopeedia Americana as very
mountainous. Both statements are true in part The Meinam
valley, no where over fifty miles wide, the district of Chantabon,
recently taken from Camboja, and some other level spots, are
exceedingly productive. But most of the empire is mountainous,
poor, and scarcely inhabited.

In personal appearance, they come behind any nation I have
yet seen, especially the women. Among the thousands of these
that came under my notice, I never saw one who was comely.
The men are often good looking. The national characteristics
seem to be a broad and flat face, long and square lower jaw,
large mouth, thick lips, small nose, forehead very broad" and
low, cheek bones prominent A striking peculiarity is the size
of the back part of the jaw, the bone and flesh projecting laterally,
as if the parotid glands were swollen. The average height of the
men is five feet, two inches. Both sexes wear the hair close,
except on the top of the head, from the forehead to the crown.
Where it is about two inches long, and, being kept stroked back,
stands erect The rest is kept shaved by men, and cut pretty
close by women. As the shaving is not often done, it is gener-
ally difficult to tell a man from a woman. The principal mark
is, that a woman has a line round the edge of the top-knot, made
by plucking out a breadth of two or three hairs, so as to show

11*

nS lua.

iho irtiilo dun, m in tbe [nettirB. Only thoM who are nice tbm
their perBOns, however, take this troobk
Roberta declaiee, in liiB Kmhasij to tfel
EsBt, that be nenr could tell ■ ma
fiom a woman, when nninben mm
seated together.

The raiment of both aexea ia alibi;
eonnsting of a cloth, wrapped round dw
hips, with the end passed between dtt
thighs, and tucked in at the small c^ At
back. It descendH below the knee^ ud
is geDerall; of printed cotton. At i
diltauce, it reaemblea trouaers. YovBf
women, and those of the richer hcl
wear also a narrow kerchief or leaif
crossed on the breast, and pesnng uoder
die arms, as in the figure.
Unlike most Asiatics^ the SiameM re-
ject omamenta in tbe nose or ears, but are fond of ban|^
bntcelets, necklaces, and finger-rings; Turbans are not used;
but in the suti, a light hat, made of pelm-leares, precisely in ikt
shape of a large inverted tnilk-pan, is set upon the head hju
alaetic bamboo fivme, which holds it up sereral inchefl^ tti \
permits the air to peas between. Neither sex tattoo an; pait
of their bodies, deeoiing it a mark of berbariem. The ualrettil
mode of carrying email children, as in eveiy other part of tbe
East visited by me, is astride on tbe hip, as sbown in the pietura
It certainly is more easy thus to carry a heavy child than in tbe
arms, at least wben the infant ia diveated of all raimenL

Play-acting, cock-fighting, and flying kites, are prominent
amusementa. In die two latter, princes and priests, both ohl
and young, engage with delight. They have also a small pu|-
nacious species of fish, the fighting of which is a very admired

In regard to buildings, food, agriculture, education, I
medical practice, priesthood, religion, crimes, punishments, gor-
ernment, taws, marriage, divorce, burial, and many other toping
ihe Blatements made respecting Burmah apply so nearly as to
make further remarks, in this place, unneceaaary.

They have no standing army, but every able-bodied male if
Uabte at any time to be called into tbe field, by the mere will <d
ii» chiefs llie king has, for a good many years, made large

ARMT — NATT "^ COmUERCS. 137

annual purchaseiB of muskets, which must amount now to more
than eighty diousand stand. Of cannon they have plenty. They
make good brass cannon, some of them very large, but seldom
liave proper carriages. At Bankok there is the semblance of a
lespectable navy, consisting of scores of war junks, galleys, and
other vessels of various sizes, built on the Cociyn-Chinese model,
and mounting heavy guns. But the Siamese are no sailors ; and
when brought into servic^ these vessels are manned by the
promiscuous populace, ana officered by Chinese or other for-
eigners. No crews are now attached to their vessels, and diey
stand in rude wet docks, covered by regular ship-houses, as in
our navy-yards.

The commerce of Slam has narrowly escaped the &te of that
of Tringano, Patani, &c Hamilton states that he visited Siam
in 1719, ^ on the foundation of a treaty of commerce, made in
1684, between King Charles and the King of Siam's ambassadors
in London." His ship went up to Ayuthia, leaving the guns
**at Bankok, a castle about half way up the river." The Dutch
trade must even then have been considerable, as they had a
fectory about a mile below Ayuthia, and a resident company of
merchants. It appears that, long previous to the said treaty with
England, some British merchants had a factory near Ayuthia; but
a quarrel with the governor, who commanded in 1684, resulted
in their expulsion, and only within about twenty years has that
trade regularly recommenced. American, Dutch, and Bombay
vessels now resort to Bankok ; and though the trade is not likely
soon to be large or important, it will probably be steady. A new
treaty of commerce was made with England in 1826, and another
with the United States in 1833.

The number of Chinese junks, regularly trading to this city,
cannot be less than two hundred annually. Many of them are
of five or six hundred tons, and some are not less than a thou-
sand. Thirty or more trade to Canton and vicinity; nearly
as many are from Hainan; and the rest from other places.
Seventy or eighty sometimes lie in the river at a time. Some of
these vessels are owned by Siamese, and still more by Chinamen,
residing in Bankok; but the crews are never Siamese. None
of the larger ones make more than one voyage a year ; going in
one monsoon, and returning in the other. Most of them arrive
in December and January, and depart in May and June. Nu-
merous prows and small junks keep up a constant intercourse
with the coasts of the Gulf of Siam, and principal neighboring

ISB BtAM.

khnds.* Two or three Siamese diips^ buih on tbe EkmpeHi
model, trade to Singapore. Cochin-Chinese yessels were foiuw r
]y numerous ; but the late war has suppressed that trade, fiir a-
time at least An artificial canal, kept in good w^r, connociHi
with the Cambc^a River, brings some trade ^m that direetieiii
Bankok has certainly the largest commerce, next to Cantm^ of
any place in the world, not inhabited by white mem

During the presence of the junks in the river, the ci^ «■•
hibits a very active scene of buying and selling ; many of then
retailing their cargo fix>m the vesseL The shops fiirnish, at al
times, almost every article demanded by European or IndiiB
customs.

The total value of exports per annum from Bankok, is not leu
than five millions of dollars. The chief articles are sugar, sapin
wood, tin, timber, rice, stick-lac, gamboge, benzoin,f . ivory, pepper,
and cotton ; and small quantities of betel-nut, dried fish, leid,
gold, silver, gems, tombac4 shagreen skins, and buffiik) horna
The export price of sugar is about four cents a pound.

The imports are arms, ammunition, anchors, piece goodfl^
cutlery, crockery, mirrors, and many other productions for Euro-
pean, Chinese, and other foreign consumption.

Sugar, the principal export, is wholly made by Chinamen, and
most of the other staples are the fruits of their industry. In-
deed, to these emigrants Siam owes much of what elevates her
fix)m among barbarians ; not only in commerce, manufkcturesi
and improved husbandry, but in domestic habits.

The Siamese have coined money, but use cowries for very
small change. The coins are merely a small bar of silver, turned
in at the ends, so as to resemble a bullet, and stamped with a
small die on one side.

400 Cowries make...... 1 PhaL

2 P'hai 1 SongpTiaL

2 Songphais 1 Fuang.

2 Fuangs. 1 Saloong.

4 Saloongs. 1 Bat or ticaL

4 Ticals. 1 Tamloong.

20 Tamloongs 1 Chang.

* The chief of these are, on the eastern shore, Banplasoi, Banpakim^,
Banpra, Banpomung, Rayong-Passeh, Chantabon, and Kokung ; and on the
western side, Ligore, Sangora, Champon, Kalantan, Tringaao, Tdtkaig,
Patani, and Pahang.

t Grade frankincense, sometimes called Bet^amn,

t Native copper with a small mixture of gold

PRICES or uYiive — fruits — chaeactxr. 139

The two last are nominaL They sometimes have a gold fuang,
equal to eight ticals. The tical, assayed at the mint of Cal-
enttBy yielded about one rupee, three and a half aniias, equal to
9taL 6d. sterling, or about sixty cents of American money.

For weights they use the catty and picul. The catty is double
that of the Chinese, but the picul is the same.

Living is not dear, as the following prices show : — Servants
'WBgesy per month, $3 ; fuel, &ve hundred small sticks for $1 ;
fowls, each, 5 to 10 cents ; ducks, each, 10 to 15 cents ; pork,
per pound, 7 to 8 cents ; butter (made in the family ;) lard, same
price as pork ; oil, for lamps and cooking, per gallon, 90 to 40
eents ; rice, per pound, 1 cent ; milk, per quart, 8 to 10 cents ;
sugar, per pound, 5 cents; tea, per pound, 30 to 40 cents;
irine-apples, per hundred, 70 to 100 cents; oranges, per hun-
dred, 90 to 60 cents; coco-nuts, for curry, per hundred, 18 to
90 cents ; common laborers, per month, $1,50.

No part of the East is more celebrated for the abundance and
quality of its fruits. Here are united the fruits of China, the
Indian islands. Hither India, and tropical America. During
my stay, the mango, mangosteen, durian, rambutan, pomegran-
ate, guava, pine-apple, and, I presume, fifty other fruits, were
in season. About taste there is no disputing. Many Europeans
disparage Oriental fiiiits ; but I deem them incomparably supe-
rior to those of high latitudes, to say nothing of their vast variety,
and their being enjoyed every day in the year.

I learned nothing, during my seven weeks' residence in Siam,
to induce me to dissent from the character hitherto given to this
people by all travellers. They are crafty, mean, ignorant, con-
ceited, slothful, servile, rapacious, and cruel. As to truth, ^^ the
way of it is not known." No one blushes at being detected in a
fraud, or a falsehood, and few seem superior to a bribe. Quar-
rels are common ; but as no one is allowed to go armed, they
seldom result in mischief. They are cowardly, and shrink from
an air of resolution in a foreigner. The Abbe GJervjdse said of
them, a century ago, that, " though as enemies they are not dan-
gerous, as friends they cannot be trusted."

But ** God made man upright," and the fall has not obliterated
all semblance of good from any portion of the human race. The
Siamese have some redeeming traits. They are exceedingly
fond of tiisir offspring, and cherish reverence to parents almost
equal to that of the Chinese. They are temperate, inquisitive,
and, except on great provocation, gentle. Women are not re-

duoed, oo the whole, below their proper leyel ; for, though eui*
torn forbids them to rank with men in some things, yet in otfaaa
diey are allowed an influence greater than is accorded tbemiriA
us. They are always their husbands' cash-keepers : they i$
most of the buying and selling; and are not made to share m
largely in laborious drudgery as in most countries of Europe.

The Siamese are certainly a grade lower in civilization ikm
the Burmans. They make none of those beautiful cottons ad
silks which the Burmans wear, and are destitute of several oCte
arts and handicrafts common in that country. For utensili «f
brass, iron, and porcelain, and almost every prevailing luxniy,
they depend on China. Even the coarse brown potteiy ii
made chiefly by Peguana Malte-Brun mistakes in attribiiliqg
to them skill in jewelry and miniature painting. In the first tbcj
are more clumsy than Burmans, and in the second horrible.

Still the Siamese are much above, the semi-barbarians of die
Malay states, and the islands of the adjacent seas. They pn>-
duce a surplus of sundry articles for exportation, and they hue
an important and well-conducted foreign conmierce. Their
religious edifices show surplus resources in subsistence and
labor, which barbarous tribes never possess. The government,
though despotic and ill arranged, is regular and firm, confeirioj
many advantages upon society. In music, they use the same
instruments as the Burmans, and excel even the Javanese. I
have often listened with pleasure both to single instruments and
full bands. Their houses, dress, habits, and entire condition of
the nation, are those of a people far above the rudest forms of
human society. Such considerations as these give diem a digni-
fied position in the grade of nations, and will give momentum
to their influence in behalf of Christianity, when they shall
have " turned to the Lord."

Slavery prevails in Siam. Many chiefs have hundreds, and
some of them thousands. In war, the chief objects are prisoners
and plunder. They have almost depopulated some conquered
districts, to bring the people to Siam. Around Bankok are
whole villages of Peguans and others taken in war. Their
national history mentioned above, states that in one of the wars
vnth the Shyans of Zemmai, they took 120,000 captives.

At all times, a slave-trade is carried on along the Burman
fi'ontier, by wild tribes, who find a ready market for any
Burmans or Karens they may catch. Persons are daily sold
into hopeless slavery by tineir creditors, for, once sold, they have

SIiAYERT — STRUCTUBS OF TH£ hAJXQUAQZ, M

of paying the debt but hy getting a new master.

ij sell their wives, parents, and Ghildren, at pleasure; Mid
sell themselves.

How large a proportion of the people are slaves, no one could
iMlp me to guess. It is probafaty much greater in and aroimd
tiis metropolis than elsewhere. With many of those kept about
die person of the master, the slavery is almost nominal ; but in
BMMt cases it is severe. A common custom is for the master not
to support the servant, but to allow him two or three months in a
jmtr to work for himself) to obtain food and clodies for the rest
of the year. Often they are hired out by the year, receiving food
and clothes, but no part of the wages. Clidldren inherit their
parents' bondage. As in Burmah, debtor slaves are entitled to
finedom on presentation of the amount due, which, however,
being generally borrowed, only secures a change of masters.

The Siamese language is exceedingly simple in its construction,
and is doubtless an original. It is destitute of terminations to
signify gender, number, person, mood, or tense. A few par-
ticles supply the place of these ; but they are almost universally
omitted, not only in conversation, but by the best writers. Thki^
renders it easy to learn, but often ambiguous ; and makes a con-
siderable knowledge of the language necessary to carry on nice
discussions. Foreigners soon acquire it sufficiently for the com-
mon purposes of life. The Chinese, being of various dialects, use
it in intercourse with each other, as more convenient than their
own, and, their wives being Siamese, the progeny speak it as
their mother tongue.

Except as improved from other tongues, the language is mon-
osyllabic Many terms, which seem to be dissyllables, are only
words joined. Thus namta, '•*■ tears," is from nam, water, and to,
the eye. Ijukwcd, ** fruit," is from Ivk, offspring, and mai, wood.
Many words, particularly in the language of the upper classes,
are from the Cambojan. This is a polysyllabic language, and
abounds more in complicated combinations of consonants.
Terms to express mental operations, and all religious technicali-
ties, are from the Pali,* which is also polysyllabic. These terms
undergo various changes, the most common of which is the
contraction of the two last syllables into one.

The languages of Siam, Asam, and the Shyans, are essentially
the same ; but which dialect is primitive, is not known. Our

* Pronounced by Siamese Balee.

131 BUM,

missionaries at Sudiya and Bankok, and those soon to ga It
2<eminai, will be able to investigate the origin and capacitiss of
this language, which, being one of the chief in Fardier Imfi^
deserves more attention than it has yet received. Captain Low
published, in 1808, a Siamese grammar ; but he had never been ia
the country, and has fidlen into so many errore^ that the mif-
sionaries deem his work nearly useless.

The form of the characters differs little fipom the PalL Then
are thirty-four consonants, only five of which are regularly used
as final, and twelve vowels, with several diacritical marka It
has intonations like the Chinese, which makes the difficult
of speaking well much greater than that of learning it Thui
ffUE, according to its tone, signifies ''come," ^a, dog," and ^t
horse." Ha m^ans ''to seek," ''ghost," "five." Kino means "to
enter," "rice," "a horn,"** a mountain," "he," "she," "it,"aDd
"them."

The Catholics of Bankok use the Roman alphabet in writiog
Siamese. I noticed also that the Pra Klang's secretary wrote
in that character. Chow Fah Yai, eldest legitimate son of the
late king, and who retired to a convent rather than contend ibr
the throne, has not only written, but printed Siamese in our let-
ters. He has a press made by himself, and types, most of which,
probably, were obtained firom Italy, through the Catholic priests.
It is certainly of great consequence to follow up this begiDning.
If the number of Siamese who can read, be as small as now
appears, there will be a necessity for Christian philanthropy to
raise up readers, as well as proper books, and these may be better
taught in the Roman characters than any other.

The Baptist Board of Foreign Missions established the mis-
sion to Siam in 1833. Mr. Gutzlaff had visited Bankok in 1828,
and remained about three years, but was twice away to Singa-
pore, and studied the Chinese language principally. Mr. Tom-
lin, London Society's Missionary at Singapore, made a visit with
Mr. G., and remained eight months. He afterward came with
Mr. Abeel, and both remained six months. Mr. Abeel made a
second visit of six months, and then returned in ill health to
America. None of these brethren contemplated a permanent
residence in Siam, and in the report of their first six months'
labors, Messrs. G. and T. called upon the Baptist brethren
to " pass the boundary line of Burmah, and come forward to
Siam." Mr. T. also wrote urgently to Maulmain for a brother
to be sent at once. He considered the Baptist Board called

ORIGIir OF THE MISSION — PRINTING OPERATIONS. 133

V^n, more than any other, to establish a mission here, not only,
because their stations in Burmah were but a few days' march
ftom Bankoky but because they had begun with the Shyans,
whose language was so similar, and a large part of whom be-
loDged to Siam. The project was seriously entertained by our
Board, when Mr. Jones was appointed, in 1^^ ; but it was left to
be decided by the brethren at Maulmain. Mr. J. was designated
by them to this service, and sailed from Burmah for Bankok in
September, 1832. He found the station had been wholly vacant
far six months, and he remained entirely alone for sixteen
months longer. In the mean time, the American Board of
Commissioners for Foreign Missions (without knowing of the
movement from Burmah) resolved to make Bankok one
of their stations; and Messrs. Johnson and Bobinson were
tent out, who arrived about the first of August, 1834. Dr. Brad-
ley, from the same society, arrived the next year. Mr. J. studies
the Chinese, and the two others Siamese. Interesting accounts
from these brethren will be found in the Missionary Herald,
published monthly in Boston.

Mr. and Mrs. Jones may be said to have mastered the Siamese
language, and can freely impart to the people the "knowledge of
the truth. Mr. J. has translated Matthew, Acts, and part of Luke,
tnd Mr. Judson's tracts — " Balance," ** Catechism," and " Sum-
mary of Christian Religion," and prepared a tract on astronomy,
and a brief grammar. Matthew, Acts, the Catechism, and the
Summary have been printed and distributed ; beside sheet tracts,
containing the ten commandments, the sermon on the mount,
&c. Two school-books for Siamese have also been printed.
Mrs. Jones has prepared the History of Joseph, of Nebuchad-
nezzar, and other reading books, together with a copious diction-
ary, in Siamese and English, which future students may copy to
their great advantage.

Mr. Davenport superintends the printing, and studies the lan-
guage. The issues of the office, within the year, have been
13,124 books, containing 1,439,720 pages, comprising the Sum-
mary of Religion ; Acts of the Apostles ; Ten Commandments,
with explanations; Scripture Parables; A broad-sheet Para-
ble; First Lessons in English and Siamese; Lessons in
Arithmetic ; Lessons in English ; and several publications in
Chinese.

It has been found impossible to have satisfactory schools in
this city. By no device can the scholarp be retained long
enough to imbibe any useful .measure of knowledge. During

VOL. IL 12

dw period of their cantinuance, they cannot be made to (HmI
regulnriy. A tew have lalelj been redeemed from elare!;, nl
will be thoTOUghlj instructed. But the cost of children w bim
fbity-eighl to sixty, and for an adult, about a hundred doltgn;
w that this mode of obtaining scbolari cannot be exteno*^
piuwied. Chinese Khokra may be had vrith somewhat iM
difficult'.

Mrs. Dn heride her daily atudiea, has a school of twein v
fifteen children, which Mrs. J. daily opens with prayer and m-
ligiouB Instniction in Siamese. Such of them as are not C^>-
lici^ with a few others, are formed into a Sunday schooL

The mission premises, althouf^h pleasantly and healthfiiUf
situated are bo eoniinpd in apace as to be lery inconvenient
The land too is only lured and witli no a>isurance of perma-
nence. The buildings consist of three dwelling houses, a print-
ing-office, fifty-two feet by twenty, and a small fire-proof building
for paper, books, &c. Tlie dwelling-houses are similar to those
of natives in construction, only larger, and cost each about
three hundred dollars. Mr. Davenport's liouse, and the printing-
offices, are in the rear of those shown in the picture, of whidi

mSSIONABISS — WORSHIF. 195

8 occupies that on the right, and Mr. Dean the othar.
;es in front are those of the first Mrs. Gutzhiff and Mr.
hildren. The tall palms are betel-trees, described VoL
S4.* There is scarcely any chance to walk for exercise in
i Bankok, from the bad state of the streets, so that the
ries are obliged to content themselves, for the most part,
ng rowed out upon the river to get a little fresh air.
: used for this purpose is represented in the cut, on page
has a little house in the stern to keep off the sun. The
It in that picture is a Siam skif^ sharp at both ends,
rinting-office In charge of Mr. Davenport has one press,
IS been kept in constant operation since October, 1836^
her is now on the way. Nine of the natives are learn*
business, beside some engaged in the bindery. There
ral small fonts of English letter, one of Siamese, and
hinese. With the latter, some extracts from the Bible
rinted as broad-sheet tracts, and other works, where a
e is wanted ; but a smaUer one is ordered from Seram-
the printing of common book& A set of blocks for
net, called *<The Two Friends," has been procured,
) CSiinese workmen are constantly engaged in working
aseions. Some others will soon be issued in the same

ur public worship on Sundays has not been commenced
se. Mr. Jones spends part of his Sundays in visiting
i; preaching to such as he can gather there, and dis-
portions of Scripture. I, of course, accompanied him,
lere, as in every other place, to see missionary services
d in all its modes. Though I have accompanied many
in this highway, open-air preaching, I have seldom
1 these occasions, partly because they are so often
in the journals of missionaries, and partly because I am
o maintain the greatest brevity. The plan pursued in
grows out of the nature of the service, and is not mate-
erent from that pursued by various other missionaries,
ike just that course which they would in our own cities,
3Ctable foreigner were to go about the streets and pub-
3 to disseminate a new religion. Grenerally the audi-

ye\ has been built in the corner of the lot in front, since my visit ;
her babes now sleeps Mrs. Jones, who died of cholera, March 28,
s admirable womsin, and devoted missionary, is an unspeakable
mission.

136 BIAM.

ences are poor people ; objections are raised, and disputes ofta
ensue; sometimes only two or three can be induced to give
their attention ; at others, a Httle crowd gathers, and listens widi
interest The fruits of diese exertions in Bankok do not yet
appear ; but we must watch unto prayer. As the time has now
come, to make efforts for a permanent congregation cm Ae
mission premises, happier results may be expected. When it ii
recollected that we have only Mr. J. who can preach in Siamese^
and that Mr. D.'s engagements in the printing-office obstruct his
acquisition of the language, it is evidently of great consequence j
to reenforce speedily this branch of the mission.*

Of the various individuals mentioned as encouraf^g^ in
the published journals of Messrs. GutzlafT and Tomlins, none
have continued so. None attend worship, or seem particulariy
friendly to the missionaries. Bunty, who was baptized by Mr.
Jones, in 1833, and who, for a while, seemed a true disciple,
grew cold, and about a year ago left the ministry to go into
business, not without bitter feelings against the missionariea
He led away another disciple, who has now fitUen into the
deadly habit of opium-smoking. Of the six Chinese who have
been baptized, three have died, under the observation of the
missionaries, giving full evidence of triumphing over the last
enemy. Of the two who remain, one is an intelligent, but poor
old man, whose three sons not only attend the public service on
Sabbath, and unite daily with their father in family worship, but
have ceased to make offerings to idols. The other is in bad
health, but exceedingly useful by his holy example, a great
comfort to Mr. Dean, and a cheering token of future in-
gatherings.

Both the Baptist Board, and the American Boai'd of Commia-
sioners, make this a station for efibrts upon the Chinese. With
a population of this description in and near the city, amounting
to half a million, and at least eight or nine thousand Chinese
sailors, arriving annually and remaining many weeks, there can
be no lack of scope. The whole number of many tribes, who
enjoy strong missionary establishments, is not half so great
as that of the Chinese in this region. Nor are the circumstances
more discouraging than in average cases.

Mr. Dean, of the Baptist Board, gives himself to the Tay-cheW
dialect, which has never been attempted by any other. He is, as
yet, of course, but a student in the language, but has attained

* Mr. and Mrs. Slafler left Boston, as missionaries to the Siamese, in 1838

DISTRIBUTION OF BOOKS — CHIinESE. 137

a knowledge of it, that, with the help of his teacher, he
lets worship every morning for the benefit of the block-
ers, and others on the premises, and on Sundays has a reg-
audience of forty to fifty persons. He has considerable
ledge of medicine, and is daily engaged in practice. About
7 or thirty patients, mostly Chinese, meet daily in his porch
iir o'clock — chiefly cases of ulcers and wounds. Before
Dg the Dispensary, he holds worship with them, and gives
. Some come several days' journey, and remain till cured.
1 the junks are in the river, his number is often much
'. Mr. Johnson, of the American Board, pursues the study
Hokeen or Fokien dialect

3 distribution of Scriptures and tracts may be carried to
t any extent in Bankok, both to Chinese and natives. A
imall proportion, however, can read intelligently. Even of
nail number, few can understand more than the plainest
ives.

eems of little use to give books profusely without abundant
lal preaching. In China, where missionaries may not live,
ci Burmah proper, or other countries, from whence they
t any moment be expelled, a liberal dispensation of books
I called for. But, in general, the direct preaching of the
I cannot be advantageously deferred, after books have so
en diffused as to excite a spirit of inquiry, and a general
ledge of the missionary's objects. The full power of the
will be best seen in its foUotoing the preacher. The peo-
B then made capable of understanding, what before would
unintelligible to them as the book of Isaiah was to the
h before Philip instructed him. It is quite evident, too,
le apostles proceeded in this manner.
place is, on the whole, so favorable for diffusing Christisin
into China as Bankok, as is evident from the statements I
nade touching the trade by junks. It is important, how-
to make the publications more idiomatic and intelligible
I we spend heavy sums of money in this work.
»re should be at least eight Chinese missionaries in Siam,
It reference to supplying China itself hereafter. Each of
LU" principal dialects, viz. Mandareen, Canton, Taychew, and
n, should have two brethren, that a single death may not
h a whole department. The adjacent villages, and even
of the ports in the Gulf of Siam, would engage their atten-
i part. The junks would not only supply opportunities for
ig into China any number of tracts, but regular congrega-
12*

188 >iAM.

tKMiB, for sevend months together. The great difficulty in mid6r
plying missionaries at this point, is the refusal of goYemmaBt
to allow them to rent or purchase land for residences.

It has been erroneously supposed that, from Bankok, difoel
OYerland intercourse might be had with the firontior of Gm^
No part of the Siam frontier approaches China within lees An
about three hundred miles. The intervening space is InhahitBd
by various tribes, living insulated from each other, and is taeh
ersed by mountains probaUy not passable by caravana Zeo*
mai is the nearest point to Bankok, from whenoe the westNB
borders of China may be approached, and that Bta|ion moit
necessarily depend upon Maulmain, in Burmah, both fiir ep^
tolary intercourse with America, and supplies of dothin^
printing paper, &c.

Deeming it important to fonn the brothers and sisters of tfak
station into a regular church of our Lord Jesus Christ, I e<»i-
yened them in council, and, after full consideration, it was unani-
mously resolved upon. After devoting a day to &sting and
prayer, and drawing out, in full, the platform of doctrine and
discipline, I proceeded, on the following Sabbath, to preach and
perform the appropriate solemnities. Nine persons^* of whom
two were the Chinamen already mentioned, formed the material
of the church. In the after part of the day, I administered the
Lord's supper to this precious band of pioneers. The text was,
''From the uttermost parts of the earth have we heard songs,
even glory to the Righteous One." It suggested topics of joy
and hope, in the contemplation of which, all our hearts over-
flowed with pleasure. Most of the brethren and sisters were
accomplished singers, and our voices sounded to each other
like almost celestial music. The strange and depressing
sensations of being at the utmost possible earthly distance
from those we love, gave place to pleasure, on hearing in our
own language the praises of the Lord. The sad ''Farewell
forever" to the sacred fraternities of home, lost half its bitter-
ness while partaking of church privileges and communion,
with Christians fi'om oiu* own land, and of our own persua-
sion. The promises of God, touching the triumphs of his truth,
shone with tenfold brightness, amid the gloom and thick dark-

* Two of these are already gone up on high — Rev. Mr. Reed and Mrs.
Jones ; but Messrs. Slailer and Goddard, who, with their wives, sailed from
BostoD, 1838, will more than make the number good.

COirSTITUnON of the first PROTESTANT CHURCH. 13^

of a pagan land, where yet hope has little enoouragenieot
in the things that are seen. The visible encouragements to
fidth in the presence of two Chinese, gave distinctness and glow
to our visions of hope. Our souls magnified the Lord, and our
qpirits rejoiced in God our Savior.

The first Lord's day in July, 1837, was, by this solemn event,
rendered memorable in the history of Siam, as the birth-day of
the ^jcet Protestant church of Christ in the kingdom. It was
indeed a small room, and a small company ; but an occasion fiiU
of present benediction and future promise. Hereafter centen-
nial jubilees will celebrate the event, sacred orators dwell on it
with glowing tongue, and unborn generations bless the auspicious
hour. The ^ little one will become a thousand," and the day of
small things give place to periods of power, extension, and
triumph.

I was happy to find the brethren of the two missions in Bankok
living not only in Christian unity and peace, but personal finend-
ship. Their worship in English, both on Lord's days and week
evenings, are held together. So far as I could learn, their Chris-
tian intercourse, except at the Lord's supper, is like attached
members of the same church.

The same is happily the case at some other places where
missionaries of different sects labor together. Party differences
look small, to those who stand on missionary ground. A feeble
laborer on the field of paganism, hai'bors no jealousy lest the
wide harvest will be reaped ere he can snatch his sheaves.
He would not prefer the field to lie waste, if those of his
shibboleth do not till it He would not lose the noblest aim of
the church rather than have it attained by persuasions not
quite so pure in faith or practice as his own. hi the advanced
camp of the Lord's hosts, there will be the same preferences,
and conscientious competitions, which exist at home. But as yet,
none have betrayed the cause to the enemy, by allowing sectarian
preferences to engross their strength, and engage them in con-
tentions with their friends.

The Papal church has maintained missions in Siam for one
hundred and seventy years. The adherents, in the whole coun-
try, amount to two thousand two hundred and forty, including
about eight hundred Cochin-Chinese, recently arrived. There
is a congregation at Ayuthia, another at Chantabon, and three at
Bankok. Many of these are descendants of Portuguese who
lived with native women, and some few are converts from Boodh-
ism. In civil condition, they are below the Siamese. No part

UO BUM.

oftbepopulatioBofBankok are more degradecL Their childnn
are not taught; their mauneni arenotimproTed; their knowledjv
of ChriBtiani^ is very small ; and as a body, the; aro ndtlHr
induHtrlous, cleanly, nor moral. Processions, gnna, drums, belb,
and crackers distioguisli their holidays, in much the same nun-
ner as those of the heathen around them. During my stay in
Bankolc, a priest, newly arrived in the country,'died at some da;^
distance, on a journey. His body waa brought to the ci^, mt
carried in procfissions, first at one of their places of worsliip, ind
then at the others, with nearly such ceremonies as mark tin
burial of a Boodhist priest.

The entire salary of a Catholic priest, is one hundred doDui
per annum; not only here, but wherever else I have been in

141

CHAPTER V.

iToyage to Cantofii^ China Sea — Mouth of Pearl River -> Outside Pilots^
Lantin — Boccatigris — Whampoa— InnomeraUe Boats — Evidences of
dense Population— IX^ar Boat — River Scenery — Population of Can-
ton -— Foreign Factories or Hongs — Walks in Ike Suburbs — Streets ^
Shops — Vacant Spaces — Placards — Perambulatory Trades — Booksellttrt
-—Circulating Libraries — Map of the Worid — B^gars— Small-fooled
Women — Trades— Labor-saving Machinery — Chinese Piety— Tooubt

— Visit to a Hong Merchant — Restrictions on Foreigners— T«nples^
Priests and Nuns — Pagodas — Chinese Sects — Introduction of Boodhism

— Jos — State of Morals in the Foreign Society — Opium Trade— Mis-
sionaries — Dr. Parker's Hospital — Macao — Appearance from Harbor—
In a State of Decline — Missionaries — Mr. Gutzlaff— Voyages along the
Coast — Interesting School — How far China is open to Missionaries —
Dr. CoUedge's Hospital.

The pain of frequently parting from missionaries and other
fiiends, to meet no more on earth, has been no small part of
the trials of this long and wearisome tour. In leaving Bankok,
the case was peculiar. Mr. Jones had received baptism at my
hands ; he had been called to the ministry in my church ; and
under my roof, he and his wife had their last home in the United
States. Their feeble health and oppressive labors impressed
on me the conviction that their labors on eaith, important as they
are, will not be much longer enjoyed. Two of tlio others and
their wives had been my fellow-passengers from the United
States. To part with them cheerfully was a duty ; but the lone-
some hours of shipboard, kept fresh, for many days, the madness.

A long and tedious passage from Bankok to Singapore is always
expected against the monsoon. Some ships have been six or seven
weeks. One vessel, with missionaries, after being out forty-two
days, was obliged to return and wait for the change of monsoon.
I was favored to get down in twenty-six days without accident
Our ship also staid at Bankok a month less than is usual ; so that
I saved, in the whole trip, at least three months. The Rev. Mr.
Robinson, whom I left at Singapore, anxious to return to Bankok,
but not then quite ready, was still there, and foimd no opportunity
for the next five months.

My stay, this time, in Singapore, amounted to but few days, as
I availed myself of the first vessel for Canton. I embarked in

143 TOTAOE TO CHIirA.

the Jessie Logan, on the twenty-first of September, 1837, with t
prospect of a tedious passage, as the monsoon was changii^
We were happily disappointed, and reached China on tba
sixteenth of October. Rains and squalls, however, rendered tba
voyage comfortless, and my w&nt of an amanuensis rendered it
difficult either to improve or beguile the time.

The China Sea has an extraordinary number of ahoak and
petty islands, making its navigation unpleasant and dangeroai^
except when the monsoon enables a vessel to {Hroceed throuf^
the centre. The boundary of the sea on the eastward is a succes-
sion of large islands, scarcely known by name, even to the weQ-
educated in our country. It seems reserved for missionsiy
enterprise to bring to light the numbers and condition of man-
kind in Lu^onia, Palawan, the Baihee, Babuyanes, and Busvigan
clusters, Mindoro, Balabac, Banguey, Borneo, &C., besides the
multitude of the other Philippines, the Moluccas, the Bandu,
and Aroo archipelagoes, &c. O, how long must it be ere the
tardy and stinted charities of God's people shall spread Christian
teachers over all these seas ?

Approaching the coast of China in a day literally cloudleM,
the fine headlands of the vast entrance of the Choo-Keang, or
Pearl River, wore their best attractions. No river in the world, it ii
said, is so easily found and entered as this. No bar obstructs its
entrance. No alluvial deposits spread dangerous flats along the
shores. Scores of small but lofty islands afford at once distinct
land-marks, and a choice of channels. The entrance, thus
marked and defended, extends nearly sixty miles along the coast
fit)m east to west ; and for nearly forty miles toward Canton, the
river preserves an average breadth of fifteen miles. At that
point, called by Europeans the Bogue, or Bocca Tigris, the
breadth is two miles, divided in the centre by an island. This
is considered by the Chinese the entrance of the river, and is
defended by several forts of no great strength.

We were boarded, many miles from land, by fishermen offer-
ing to act as pilots, and by one of them was conducted to our
anchorage, while his boat went to Macao, for the usual permit
to proceed up the river, and the inner pilot These boats,
though oviri to us, are admirably constructed, of pine, decked,
and schooner-rigged. Under the deck they keep provisions^
water, &c., and sleep in bad weather. On the quarter, they put
up, in fine weather, a slight house, of bamboo and mats. The
sight of these men was not novel to me, as I had already mixed
with so many in. Burmah, Singapore, and Siam. Their costume

UNTIN — WHAMPOA — BOATS. 143

a pair of very wide blue nankeeD trousers, reaching but little
oloiTir the knee, without buttons or flaps. Its diameter at the
'aist inrould embrace a barrel, so that they take a turn in the
raistband, and tuck in the ends, which keeps them on. Of la-
orers at work, this is the whole dress : when not employed,
ley add a glazed cotton jacket, reachmg to the hips, with very
ride sleeves. The dress of the genteel classes is not transcended,.
1 beauty, costliness, or delicacy, by tliat of similar classes in
ny country upon earth.

Untin is an island, about in the centre of the outer harbor,.
ind, though large, has few inhabitants, and is noted only as the
heatre of the execrable opium-smuggling. Sheltered by its-
Ireary heights lay the ** receiving-ships," which take the drug
ix>m vessels as they arrive, and get rid of it by means of native
hat boats.

At the extreme western side of the entrance, twenty miles
listant from Lintin, is the city of Macao, occupying the extreme
south point of Heangshan Island. From thence to Canton is an
inner passage, chiefly used by native boats.

Fifteen miles below Canton is Whampoa, beyond which
foreign ships are not allowed to proceed. The anchorage
extends two or three miles, along a reach of the river, lying east
emd west In ordinary shipping seasons, one hundred or more
vessels ride here, chiefly English and American. Owing to the
recent commercial embarrassments, there were at this time but
about twenty-five. Liuumerable sampans, occupied by market-
men, fishermen, fruiterers, washerwomen, &c., with the ships'
boats, and here and there the ornamented barge of a mandareen,
or a huge, crowded passage-boat, kept the scene busy and cheer-
fuL Whampoa is a considerable village, on an island of the
same name. Its chief business is connected with the supply of
vessels, and the smuggling of opium.

Boats lie before the town, literally in thousands ; and almost
every one, the permanent habitation of a family. The occupancy
of these boats by a family, so far from preventing active employ-
ment, seems rather a qualification. The wife steers, while the
husband rows, aided by children of both sexes, if they have any.
Such as are not quite old enough to row, play about the boat
with a great gourd fastened to their waist behind, to secure them
fi*om drowning, in case they fall overboard. Those a little
younger are carefully tethered, so that they have the entire use
of the deck, but cannot pass the gunwale. If there be an infant,
it is festened on the mother's back, like a knapsack, without

■ppeariDg to impede ber motiona, or be annoyed by them. S«t
picture, below. Any one conversanl with boatmen, about olhv
BeaportB in the East, or even in our own country, canaot U
to be strucli with the superiority of tliese. Their dresa, lU
Btructure and appointments of their boata, their quiet, ordM^
induatry, and good manners, are worthy of all imitation.

The publiabed accounts of the populouaneaa of China, ■•
strongly brought to mind, when one loolu around on these faoM^
and on the green fields and barren ialanda which make up tki
scene from the deck of the ship. Every level spot is subdued fir
paddy, and the sides of every desolate island exhibit not odf
patches of cultivation, but bouses and even villages. The mbk
impression is created by a hoat of fishing-smacks, which aiiuni
the waters of the vast harlior. They literally swarm. I hafi
stood and counted two hundred at a time, from the deck tf
the ship.

From Wbampoa to Canton, the boats of foreign ships an
allowed to paaa up and down, without elimination at the ciutoo-
bouses. Passengers, however, generally uae native boata, calls!
"dollar boa^" as affiuding better shelter, and more cMt-

I found mine to be exceedingly neat, clean, and commodinia ;
divided inio three compartments ; the centre hcing^handaomelf
panelled and roofed, so as to form a nice cabin, with locken
windows, &c. Here I was placed with such of my trunks as I
needed, and, though long since hordened to the sensations of*
breigner, fell a httle more fbreign tlian usual. In one comer oT

DOLLAR BOAT — RIVER SCENERT. 145

my cabin was ^/o^," in grim dumbness, pointing upward with
Mb finger, and looking as fat and contented as Falstaffi Before
Mm smoked tapers of sandal-wood powder, and round about
were inscriptions on red paper. His little closet or shrine had
latticed doors to keep him from harm, and was the most orna-
mented part of the boat Behind, sheltered by a roo^ which,,
iqpon occasion, could slide over that of the cabin, was the kitchen«
•nd pantry. Here the wife, with an infant on her back, steered
and skulled ; at the same time watching her dinner, and a*
ymmgster or two. Forward of the cabin, a flat deck, extending
beyond the bows, and of the same width as the boat, aflbrded
ample space to two oarsmen, who sat on stools about six inches
high. Between them and the cabin was a small veranda, on
one side of which stood the ever-steaming tea-kettle and cups;
and on the other the neatly lackered tray of jos-sticks or slow
matches, from which ever and anon they lighted their cheroots;
The men were stout, though short, and pulled with vigor, shelter-
ing their iiaked backs with a broad palm-leaf hat We passed
hundreds of boats built and manned in precisely the same man-
ner ; and as they constitute a very prominent item of the scenery,
and I was lonesome, the foregoing drawing was made, which
will convey the idea better than any description.

The scenery of the river, though monotonous, is attractive.
On each side are rich rice-fields, with villages embosomed among
orange-trees, lichis, and palms; while the rugged hills in the
rear, irreclaimable even by Chinese industry, are dotted with
tombs. Some fine pagodas are visible most of the way, one of
which is given on page 156, as seen at a distance. The dikes
are for the most part paved with excellent stone masonry, and
planted with oranges, lichis, and bananas.

Just before reaching the city is the anchorage of junks or
native vessels trading to Canton, and of an imperial fleet The
latter may create a smile, but can awaken no terror. A little
further on, other trading-boats of large size lie in hundreds.
Then come long rows of floating houses, and these, with every
sort of boat, more numerous as you advance, till it becomes diflEL-
cult, and even dangerous, to thread the maze with a row-boat

Arriving, at length, opposite Kwang-tung, or, as we call it,
Canton, nothing is seen of the city except the river-suburbs, and
portions of the wall. Here boats of every description, and small
junks, are so crowded together that the utmost skill as well as
caution is required, in order to avoid disaster. Cables stretch out
fix)m a hundred junks ; huge tea-boats, of fifty or sixty tons, lie side

VOL. II. 13

146 CAirroir.

to side, scores id a row. Dwelling-houses of elegant and conv«-
Dient construction, built on scows, are disposed in regular streeli
of great length. Mandareen boats, with gorgeous and beautifii
ornaments, and fleet as the wind, move slowly round, acting asa
river police. Boats from the European ships, floating tradesmei^
mechanics, hucksters, shopkeepers, and thousands that seem to b*
mere dwellings, are multiplied on every side ; so busy, so noogii
so crowded, so strange, that it seems as if one had suddenlf
dropped upon another planet ; and a man must be vain indee^
who does not feel himself an insignificant unit among socli
legions of busy ones, who merely regard him as a foreigner.

It is computed that eighty-four thousimd families live in boato
at Canton ; and that the whole population of the city and subiiilM
Is about a million.

The accurate representation of a Chinese junk, on page 140^
will give a perfect idea of their naval architecture. The sails are
of mat ; three little cabins, each just large enough to contains
man at his length, occupy the stem ; over the side hang the hen-
coops ; a great eye glares upon the bow, and a snake beneath
warns you of the " touch me not" pugnacity of the crew. I saw
many of these both at Bankok and Singapore ; and ofifthe mouth
of the Uoogly, passed several which had ventured even to that
distance.

In all other parts of the East, Europeans bear themselves so
haughtily before the natives, and so transcend them in wealth
luxury, and intellect, that the contrast at Canton is most striking
Here are generally about three hundred foreigners, permanently
resident, and often more, kept so completely under, that they
may neither bring their wives, nor take native ladies, nor build,
buy, ride, row, or walk, without restrictions ; wholly forbidden
to enter the gates of the city, and cooped up in a spot which
would be considered in Calcutta or Madras barely large enough
for one good dwelling and compoimd. The foreign factories, or
hongs, are thirteen in number, under the names of different na-
tions, but occupied somewhat promiscuously by the merchants
and shopkeepers. They form a close front along the river, about
three hundred yards in length, with an open space toward the
water, which is here about a quarter of a mile wide. The
buildings extend toward the rear about two hundred yards.
Each hong is divided into several separate portions, entered by a
narrow alley, which passes through to the rear, and is thus made
to consist of five or six tenements, generally three stories higk

BONOS — WALKS — SALUTATIONS. 147

Fhe heat, smoke, noise, and dreariness of the interior of this
mass of buildings, with the total absence of female society, gives
ity in no small degree, the aspect of a prison. The front rooms,
lioweyer, are pleasant, and some of them have fine promenades
on the roof An open space in front, about one hundred yards
long and fifty wide, serves both as a wharf and a promenade. But
the first of these uses obstinicts it for the other; to say nothing of
httrfoers, cooks, pedlers, clothes-menders, coolies, and boatmen,
who (arowd it most of the day.

I was kindly made welcome to the American hong, or, as the
Chinese call it, the ''hong of extensive fountains," where, at the
table of the American missionaries, and of Messrs. Oliphant and
Cow, I enjoyed, for several weeks, daily opportunities of acquiring
authentic information, on all the points which concern my
agency.

Fortunately for me, there existed, during my stay in Canton,
no particular jealousy of foreigners. Accompanying the mis-
sionaries and other gentlemen in their daily walks for exercise,
I was enabled to ramble not only over all the suburbs, but among
the villages and fields adjacent We were not specially ill treated ;
but I have nowhere else found quite so much scorn and rude-
ness. Nearly all the time, some of the youngsters would be
calling out, as we passed, " Foreign devils ! " " barbarians ! " ** red-
bristled devils ! " often adding obscene expressions, and some-
times throwing light missiles ; all which the parents seemed to
think very clever. Often, indeed, they would direct the attention
of very small children to us, and teach them to rail. Our clerical
profession seemed known to many; and these would shout
" Story-telling devils ! " " lie-preaching devils ! " In streets much
frequented by foreigners, these things rarely occurred ; but in
others, we attracted general attention ; and if we stopped for a
few moments, a crowd would immediately choke up the street
Sometimes Dr. Parker's patients would recognize him, and we
would be asked to sit down ; tea and pipes would be offered,
and a strong sense of confidence and gratitude manifested. But
the crowd would soon become disagreeable, and we were glad
to pass on to get fresh air, and to exempt our friends from
annoyance.

The width of the streets is seldom more than four or five
feet, and often less. The houses rarely exceed one story high ;
and, except on business streets, all the better ones are invisible,
being built, like those of Paris, within a walled enclosure.
The streets are all flagged with large slabs of smooth stone.

148 CAiiToir.

principally gnuiite. The breadth excludes ^iieel carriageis
of course, and the only vehicles are sedan chairs, which are
constantly gliding along at a very rapid rate ; those for hidieB
being closed with blinds, or gauze, but not so as to prevent tbe
occupant from looking through. As these chairs, or loaded
coolies, come rushing along, a perpetual shouting is kept up^ to
dear the way ; and, unless you jump to the wall or into a shop,
you are rudely jostled ; for, though they are polite and kind, their
headway and heavy burden render it impossible to make sudden
pauses. As to walking arm in ann, it is quite out of the ques-
tion. I saw none of the unbroken ranges of piazza spoken of by
geographers; but in some places, mats are spread across tbe
street, which exclude the sun. The end of each street has a
strong gate, which is shut up at night; chiefly for security against
thieves.

The shops are often truly beautiful ; but the greater number are
occupied as well by the workmen as the wares. Such minute
subdivision of callings I have seen no where else. Not only are
trades subdivided into the most minute branches, but the shops
are often limited to one or two species of goods. Some of those
which I entered would vie with those of London, for style and
amount of capital invested. In each, the idol has a handsome
and conspicuous situation. As Chinese is read perpendicularly,
the sign-boards are suspended downward, and are thus well
adapted to narrow streets. They are generally beautifully exe-
cuted, and often, after announcing the name and occupation,
close with sage sentences ; such as, " Gossipping and long sitting
injure business;" "No credit given; former customers have in-
spired caution."

The vacant places present a mixture of incongruities — at-
tractive, pitiable, shocking, and ludicrous. Here is a doctor,
surrounded by roots, spreading his plaster on a man^s shin;
there is an astrologer, disclosing fortunes. Here is a group of
happy children, purchasing smoking comfits; and there is a
meat stall, surrounded by stout fellows, swallowing pork
stews. Here are some hungry mendicants, gloating upon the
dainties ; and close by are some of their fraternity, unable any
longer even to ask charity, lying unheeded, to die of hunger.
Mountebanks, clothes-dealers, musical beggars, petty auctioneers,
gamblers, etc., make up the discordant aggregate.

At these openings and other conspicuous places, placards cover
the walls ; and as with us, quack medicines, government proc-
lamations, and business cards were the principal. Some were

FBKAMBUI.A.TOAT T&AI«S — BOOKBXIXEmS. 149

novel, and showed tfte want of newspapers, tiz. lampoons and
endcisms on public men. Some of these were intrepid and
■evere, but none seemed gross and libellous. Alas^ that our
country should be so much behind China in the treatment of
official characters !

Many trades are here perambulatory, which are so nowhere
dae. Among these moying mechanics I noticed barbers, coopers,
tinmen, blacksmiths, shoemakers, and tailors, beside a medley
of firuiterers, hucksters, fishmongers, confectioners, pedlers, rat-
catchers, pastry-cooks, butchers, picture-men, and I know not
what The throng and confusion of these narrow streets is thus
much increased, while their yarious bells, drums, gongs, and
cries keep up a perpetual din.

In these walks I obsenred, what I believe is not to be seen in
any part of India — regular native booksellers. They generally
display a considerable assortment of works, at astonishingly
cheap prices. The moral tendency of these works is said to
be in general good ; but the intellectual benefit is small. This
was often illustrated by the close proximity of some gray-bearded
fortune-teller, with five times the custom of his literary neighbor.
1 was often amused to see the ludicrous gravity with which these
men of destiny drew wonder and cash from their gaping patients ;
and to mark the diversified countenances of those who retired.
The doleful, drawmouth visage, or the arch chuckle and rubbed
hands, plainly told which had received " dampers," and which
brought off animating assurances. As usual, these worshippers
of fortune seemed to be those she had hitherto least favored.

Beside the bookstores are circulating libraries, in the literal
sense of the term ; that is, the librarian, having his books ar-
ranged in two neat cases, bears them on a pole across his shoul-
der, from customer to customer. Some of these have several
thousand books ; but the greater part being in the hands of bor-
rowers, his burden is not excessive.

A tolerable idea of Chinese geography may be gathered from
a glance at their maps. Mr. Gutzlaff was kind enough to present
roe with one of the world, and to translate many of the names. It
is two feet wide by three and a half high, and is almost covered
with China ! In the left hand comer, at the top, is a sea, three
inches square, in which are delineated, as small islands, Europe,
England, France, Holland, Portugal, and Africa. Holland is as
large as all the rest, and Africa is not so big as the end of one's
little finger ! The northern frontier is Russia, very large.

The left comer, at the bottom, is occupied by " the western
13*

150 CAirroR.

ocean," as it is called, containing the Malay peninsula, pref^
well defined. Along the bottom are Camboja, Cochin-Chin,
&C., represented as moderate-sized islands ; and on the right it
Formosa, larger than all the rest put together. Various other
countries are shown as small islands. I should have given ai
engraving of this curious map, but that a true reduction to dn
size of a page would have left out most of these countries al-
together ! The surrounding ocean is represented in huge wwnB,
with smooth passages, or highways, branching off to the different
countries, or islands, as they represent them. They suppose that
ships which keep along these highways go safely ; but if they,
through ignorance or stress of weather, diverge, they soon get
among these awful billows, and are lost !

The beggars are very numerous and pitiable. They are seldom
obtrusive ; but a donation to one will bring several upon you, and
keep you annoyed for many paces. In streets so narrow, they
cannot, of course, be allowed to sit or lie down. The open
spaces near temples and other public places afford the only
chance for them to rest ; and here many of them, utterly house-
less, lie down and die. In one of these openings, not fifty feet
square, I have seen six or eight of these unhappy beings at a
time breathing their last, covered only with an old mat, such as
comes round goods. Many, who walk about, have merely such
a mat, fastened round their loins by a wooden pin. With such
shelter only, do they pass the night upon the earth or pavement;
and always after a cold night, some are found dead. There
seems to be no particular want of charity among those who are
able to give ; but the evil lies too deep for casual gifts to cure.
Such as are not too sick to go about, are sure of something daily ;
for custom gives them a right to enter any place, and makes it
disgraceful to send them away empty. They are obliged to de-
part, however, with the gift even of a single cash, and are of^en
kept waiting a long time. I have often, as I passed, admired the
patience both of the beggar and the shopmen. Many of them
carry small cymbals, or two pieces of bamboo, with which they
keep time, at a deafening rate, to a plaintive drawL The shop-
man stands the racket as long as he can, or till a customer come
in, when he throws them the cash, and they ai-e bound to go. If
he give soon, the place is but so much the sooner filled by
another.

Distressing as are the sights of mendicity in Canton, they are
less so than I have seen in some other cities, especially Dublin,

SMALL-FOOTED WOMEN — PLACE OF EXECUTIOir. 151

■nd Turin ; and almost all are either blind or evidently sick, which
is &r from being the case either in Ireland or Italy.

I bad supposed that small-footed women, being of the genteel
mcles, would not often be seen. Instead of this, large numbers
of them, evidently poor, and often extremely so, are met with in
every street Many of these, doubtless, have been reduced from
competency ; but many are the offspring of persons, who, from
fondness or ambition, had brought up their children in a manner
b^ond their station in life. The smallest shoes and models
shown in America are no exaggerations. All, indeed, are not
equally compressed, but often the foot of an adult does not ex-
ceed four inches in length ; and from a breadth of two and a
half inches at the heel, tapers to a perfect point They walk
precisely as a person would do on two wooden legs. Other
poor women often go barefoot, but these never. Either the ap-
pearance of such a foot is too bad, or the toes, turned under, are
too tender. Many of these victims of a Mae pride sit in open
spaces, as public menders of old clothes. A passenger can thus
get a patch or a button set on, while he waits — a custom which
might usefully be introduced among us.

We rail at the Chinese for compressed feet with little reason,
so long as we persist in compressing the waist Nor are we
wholly exempt fh)m the folly of crushing the feet also. Even
oiu" easiest shoes, though less absurd than the Chinese, are by
no means patterned from nature.

I enjoyed, in walking with Mr. Bridgman, what few foreigners
do — the advantage of an interpreter. I was thus enabled to
stop at many places, witnessing various Chinese arts, and con-
versing freely with the operatives. Many of these occupations
are known among us ; but in every case, they seem to be carried
on by an unique method. I was sui-prised to find labor-saving
machinery employed to a considerable extent One instance
pleased me exceedingly; viz., a bellows for blowing glass,
which almost entirely saved the workman's lungs. In every
establishment, whether of an artist, mechanic, or tradesman, we
were received with great civility, and generally offered some
slight refreshment.

One of our walks was to the place of execution, which in
China is generally done by beheading. It is part of a populous
street, thirty or forty feet wide just at that point, and a common
thoroughfare. On one side is a high blank wall, and on the other is
a row of potteries. The di7ing wares are spread over a consid-
erable part of the space, bringing strongly to mind the bloody

potteHs field of the New TesUmem. A narrow tbeA, twehe m
fifteen feet long. Mood agHiDHt the wall, with ahelvea of i^
bamboo. Ljftiug up on old mat with my cane, there Is; a im
flf headi^ apparently three or four days old. On Ibe ground bl
comer were a few akulla, nearly Meacbed by time. ExecutiCM
occur here every few duys, and with veiy little notice or kf-
mality. The poor culprit kneeli on the earth ; his long cot ii
twisted up into a knot upon hia head; be put* bis palms togetbs,
in a posture of obeisance; and leaning fbrward,one stroke aeven
bia head from his body. The remain* are generally allowed N
be removed liy friends.

Tlie Chinese biu^ their dead, and are very careful of tba
tambs of ancestors. To these they often reaort, to make prajM
and ofieriuf^ ; and bo long aa there are male descendanta, thej
are kept in repair. Their mode of conatructing theni is peculiar,
invariable, and so unlike an; others in the world, that a picture
alone can explain.

They cover many acres of ground near Singapore, 1
and other cities where Chinamen are numerous, and land plenty ;
and even in China engross much space, but generally only rocky
or barren spots, incapable of other uses.

The cheapness and frivolity, as well as the universality, of
Chinese piety, was every evening forced upon our observation,
whether we returned on foot or by boat. Not a family, on shore
or afloat, is without its little altar ; nor does a sun set without each
being lighted up with tapers and incensed with fragrant matches.

RESIDENCE OF A ICAIVDAEEEIT. 153

Beside the gaudy domestic altar, with its flaunting mottos and
varied tinsel, nearly every house has a little niche in the wall,
near the ground, inscribed with sacred characters, where also
tapers and jos-sticks are burned. The air is thus loaded every
twilight with sandal-wood smoke. Here and there you see men
making additional offerings, by setting on fire articles of gilded
paper, or making libations before the shrine. These vespers
being finished, the Chinaman's religion is complete for that day ;
and he retires to pleasure or repose, with the full comfort of
self-righteousness.

It is so unpopular to be familiar with foreigners, that an op-
portunity of visiting the private houses of respectable Chinese
is rarely enjoyed, by transient sojourners in Canton. One of the
principal hong merchants, being particularly indebted to Dr. P.
for removing a polypus, and at the same time a man of uncom-
mon independence, I was glad to embrace a proposal to visit
him. Dr. P. having announced our desire, we received a very
cordial invitation. The house stands in a crowded suburb;
nothing being visible from the street, but a wall of the ordinary
height Passing through a vestibule, attended by porters, we
were ushered into a large and handsome hall, where the old
gentleman soon joined us. His dress was negligent, but costly,
and resembled that of the mandareen figures in our tea-shops.
He saluted us in English, and the conversation was so main-
tained. After a little, he invited us to see his establishment,
and kindly accompanied us. I was soon bewUdered in passing
through halls, rooms, and passages ; crossing little court-yards
and bridges ; now looking at scores of gold-fish in a tank, and
now sitting in a rustic summer-house on the top of an artificial
cliff; now admhing whole beds of china asters in full bloom, and
now engrossed with large aviaries or grotesque bee-hives. Here
were miniature grottos, and there were jets of water. Here were
stunted forest-trees and porcelain beasts, and there was a lake
and a fancy skiff Yet the whole was compressed into a space
not larger than is occupied by some mansions in the middle of
our large cities !

There was not that quaint absurdity about all this, that books
and pictures had led me to suppose. True, it was exceedingly
artificial, and thoroughly Chinese ; but there were taste and beauty
in it all. Why should we break down all tastes to one stand-
ard ? He that can only be pleased in a given way, is illy fitted
to travel ; and I am sure any one not predetermined to contemn,
would admire and enjoy the grounds of Tinqua.

TheRylei^theroonuipleaBedmeleee. llieyK
but all fumi^ed in the eaiiie manner, and roost of them aimti }
Beside gorgeoua ChineBe lantemB, hung Dutch, English, Kd r
Cbbese cbaodeliera, of every size and pattern. Italian d> I
paintings, Chinese hangings, French clocka, Geneva btn^ i
British plate, &c. &c^ adorned the same rooms, strewed wit i
natural curioaities, wax fruits, models, and costlf trifle^ bm
every part of the world.

There are one hundred and twenty-four temples in Caotoii,
beside the numerous public altars seen in the streets. I nw
the principal ones without the walls, which are aaid not to ba
inferior, on the whole, to those within. They strikingly reaembk
the monasteries of Europe. The handsomest is one of tba
BoodhistB, in the suburb of Honan, on the opposite sideofilM
river. Being accompanied by Messrs. Bridgmao, Parlcer, and
Morrison, who were acquainted with the superior, I was not oolr
shown every part by his order, but had the pleasure of lu*
society for an hour. Cloisters, corridors, court^yards, chapelf^
image-houses, and various offices, are scattered, witli little regaid
to order, over a space of five or six acres. Priests, with shaveD
crowns and rosaries, loitered about ; but 1 never saw common peo-
ple come to worship either at this or other establishments. Soma
of the priests occupied small and tnesn apartments ; but thoaa
of the superior are spacious, and furnished not only with the radh
nary conveniences, but with chandeliers, mirrors, pictures, &C.,
Mid with an exteneive library. The buildings are chiefly at
Inick, one story high, the vralka handsomely flagged, and tba

TEMPLES — PIUESTS — EXPENSE OF RELIGION. 159

<^iirt-yard onuuncaited with large trees, or beautiful parterres
of flowers. The printing-offiee contains stereotype bloeiD
•nough to load a small vessel, so arranged as that every work is
readily accessible. The principal apartment or temple is about
a hundred feet square, with the usual images, &c We attended
here, to witness the regular evening service. It seemed to create
little interest, £or out of one hundred and sixty resident priests,
there were but fifty present ; and these uttered their repetitions with
most obvious indifierence. Their prayers are in Pali, ostensi-
bly, but I am toid not truly, as their mode of writing renders it
utterly unintelligible to any one. They keep time by striking a
wooden drum, and occasionally a belL At a certain stage of the
process, the whcde company formed into single file, and marched
round the hall, without ceasing their repetitions. This gave us
a full view of their countenances ; and so far as these indicated,
a more stupid set could not be picked out in all Canton. 1 have
already renuuked this characteristic of the Boodhist priesthood,
in other countries; and am confirmed in the belief of its
being attributable to the character of their religion, and the
nature of their duties.

Instead of the humble dress of Burman and Siam priests,
these wear as handsome as they can get, with shoes and stock-
ings. What is worse, some are in rags, barefoot, and squalid
with apparent poverty. They have, however, a common refec-
tory, where I presume all fare alike. The buildings were erected
at different times by the munificence of individuals, and by the
revenues of the establishment, which amount to about eight
thousand dollars per annum.

While we walked over the premises, the superior had pre-
pared us a repast of sweetmeats and fruits, to which he sat down
with us. His manners were easy and elegant, his dress unosten-
tatious, and his countenance full of mtelligence and mildnesa
His age is but thirty-eight We, of course, endeavored to make
the visit profitable to him. My heart yearned over liim; and
when he assured me that he meant to visit America in a year or
two, I was happy to promise him a most cordial reception.
Priests may leave the country, and return, >vithout the restraints
which make it dangerous to others.

The whole number of priests in Canton is estimated at two
thousand ; of nuns, one thousand. The annual expense of the
hundred and twenty-four temples is two hundred and fifty
thousand dollars. Aji equal sum is required for the periodical
festivals. Half a million, annually paid in one city for religion,

bntaolat I

at «Ljrf 1

Tbeyg* I
hill. abM

l^ pagans! And the whole amount which all CI
gnea for pogana in a year, is but uz times as much.

I saw no pagodas at aa;
these establiahments. llieT
erallf stand on some liill, akai.
Unlike the cones (» pyranudiof
Burmah, these rise like tliiit-
towers, with succesfflve storiM,
marked by a conuce or nam*
pent-house. The top is often tm-
ered deepi; with earth, &MB
which shrube shoot up, and fbnn
a romantic finish ; as is the csm
with tiiBt here represented. Then
are but two within the ci^. One,
called Kwa-ta, or "adorned j»-
goda," has nine stories, and is one
hundred and seventy feet lugfa,
octagonal.* The other, called
Kwang-ta, or unadorned pago-
da, is one hundred and mtj
feet high. The first waa btuh
about thirteen hundred years ago;
the latter during the Tang dj-
nasty, which closed A. D. 906. I believe they are not resorted
to tor devotional purposes; at least not commonly. As crosses
are planted, in some countries, to mark the right of possession,
so these huge end durable monuments seem only to maik a
country swayed by him who claims "the kingdoms of this
world, and the glory of them," How artfully, in ten thousand
forms, does he, in every pagan land, confirm and perpetuate bis
rule ! But his time is short

The Chinese are divided into three secta, viz. those of Ju-kea-
su, Toou, and Boodh.

The Jukeaauists are the followers of Kong-fbo-tze, or, as the
Jesuits Latinize it, Confucius, who flourished about five hundred
and sixty years before Christ, and was therefore contemporary with

• The reader may

I his leisure, Ihe different forma of Ibe pagod«,
of this volume; of Ihc Peguaos and Siamese,
id in lie view of Boardman's grave, Vol, 1.
1, Vol. I. p. I4S ; and of China as above.

CHINESE SECTS. 157

Pythagoras. He was of royal descent, and a mandareen ; but early
resigned official life, and devoted himself to literature, morals^
and political economy. Reducing the maxims of former sages
to order, he added valuable extracts from current works, and
IMTudent sayings of his own, and produced a digest, which con-
tinues to be the tdiima thide of Chinese piety. Travelling ex-
tensively as a popular lecturer, and sustained, not less by his
high birth and eloquent address, than by the excellence of his
doctrines, he soon founded a sect which became virtually the
state religion. It is, however, much less intolerantly maintained,
than either Popery or Protestantism, where united with the state.
The other religions are allowed, and sometimes fostered. Great
officers, and even the emperor himself^ build and endow
Boodhist and Taouist temples.

The system of Confucius is highly extolled by European
writers, and most extravagantly by Chinese. As accounts of it
are accessible to all readers, I need not stop to describe it. He
seems to have regarded religion less than politics ; and the bur-
den of his works relates to social virtues, civil government, and
adherence to ancestral habits.

The sect of Taou (literally reason) was founded by Laou-Keum,
a contemporary and rival of Confbcius. His followers may be
called the mystics of China. They profess alcliymy, assume
mysterious airs, read destinies on the palms, and make great
pretensions to deep research and superior light Their practical
works contain, in general, the same laudable precepts which
distinguish the system of the Jukeasu.

The third sect follow Fo-e, sometimes spelled FoM, Foe is
said to be the old orthography of Fuh, which is the Chinese
abbreviation oitFuh-ta, or Boodha. The Boodhism of China is
the same as that of Burmah, which has been sufficiently described.
The system is ceitainly far older than either of the others. It is
generally supposed to have been introduced about A. D. 70.
Kempfer dates the introduction about A. D. 518, when "Darma,
a great saint, came from the West, and laid the foundation," &c.
Chinese historians agree that the worship of Fohi was originally
brought from India. Sir William Jones says, confidently, " Boodh
was unquestionably the Foe of China."

This sect probably embraces one third of the entire population.
The government acts with indecision toward it, at one time de-
nouncing it as dangerous, and at another contributing to its
support Mr. GutzlafF saw, at Pooto, some placards calling on

VOL. II. 14

tbe people, in the Dame of the emperor, to repair to tlie Boodk
M temple of that place, in order lo propitiate Heaven fi» t
ftuitfiil spring. The priests ore numerous, but not gt«al]; m-
qtected. I saw some of tbem in tbe streets dailj. A few wen
exceedingly well dressed; but generall; they were both Bhibbf
and dirTf, aomedmes quite ragged.

Tbe idol differs Gomewhat from that of tbe Bunnans snd.Si-
amese. The above is an exact delineation of a large image or
Joe, which I obtained from Mr. Robeits at Macao, and is now
in the Baptist MiEsionary Rooms, BoMon.

The state of morals among the English and olher foreigners
here, is delightfully superior to that of other places I have
seen in tbe East. A particular vice, so notorious elsewhere, i«
indeed effectually prevented by the Chinese police. But In

SOCIETIES — OPIUM TRADE. 150

Other respects the superiority is manifest The Sabbath is well
observed ; and sobriety, temperance, and industry, distinguish a
society, which, but for the exclusion of females, would be ex-
cellent Of course, the total absence of mothers, sisters, wivesi
and daughters, prevents any man from feeling at home in Can-
ton ; and few stay longer than they can help.

The British and American gentlemen, beside supporting the
hospital, have formed two societies for the good of China, viz.
the " Morrison Education Society," and the " Society for the Dif-
fusion of Useful Knowledge." Both are yet in incipient stages.
Their designs are fully described in the Chinese Repository.
Another measure is gradually ripening for execution, viz. the
establishment of a Medical Missionary Society ; which promises
effectually to try an experiment on which the hearts of many
friends of China are strongly set The object of this society will
be to encourage medical gentlemen to come and practise gratu-
itously among the Chinese.*

The great blot on foreigners at Canton, though not on all, is
the opium trade. That men of correct moral sensibilities and
enlightened minds should be so blinded by custom, or desire of
gain, as to engage in this business, is amazing. A smuggler in
Canton is no more honorable than a smuggler on any other
coast ; in some respects less so. There is less chivalry, hardi-
hood, fatigue, exposure, and inducement, than in the case of a
poor man, who braves both the war of elements and legal penalty,
to obtain subsistence for his fsunily. Here, among a peaceable
and perhaps timid people, they incur no personal hazards, and
set at defiance edicts and officers. No other smuggling intro-
duces an article so deadly and demoralizing. The victims of it
daily meet the smuggler's eyes, and are among the patients re-
sorting to the hospital he helps to support So well do they
know the moral and physical evils of opium, that not one of
them ventures on the habit of using it himself.

* A Medical Missionary Society, with the above object, was formed in
Canton early in 1838. It does not purpose to pay the salary of medical men,
but to receive such as may be sent by missionary boards, or come at their own
cost 5 and to furnish them with hospitals, medicines, attendants, &c. It will
establish libraries and museums, and take every proper measure to spread the
benefits, of rational medicine and surgery among the Chinese; in the hope of
thus paving the way for the relaxation of those laws, customs, and prejudices,
which now exclude the Christian missionary. Of this society, T. R. Colledge,
Esq. is president. The society has already received cash subscriptions to
the amount of ^9936 ; chiefly from the English and American gentlemen on
the spot.

MO CAHTON.

In this, 88 in other cases, magnitade ^ves dignity and
sanction to the operation* No other smuggling is on so grand t
scale. The annual sale amounts to a sum equal to the entire
revenue of the United States, and to the whole value of teat
exported to England and America ! At this very time, though
efforts so extraordinary and persevering have been put forth by
the Chinese government, to stop this infernal traffic, there are
fwenbf-fowr opium ships on the coast We have little reason to
wonder at the reluctance of China to extend her intercoum
with foreigners. Nearly the whole of such intercourse brings
upon her pestilence, poverty, crime, and disturbance.

No person can describe the horrors of the opium trade. The
drug is produced by compulsion, accompanied with miseries to
the cultivators, as great as slaves endure in any part of the earth.
The prices paid to the producer scarcely sustain life, and are
many per cent less than the article produces in China. The
whole process of carrying and vending is an enormous infringe-
ment of the laws of nations, and such as would immediately
produce a declaration of war by any European power — the
grandest and grossest smuggling trade on the globe ! The in-
fluence of the drug on China is more awful and extensive than
that of rum in any country, and worse to its victims than any
outward slavery. That the government of British India should
be the prime abettors of this abominable traffic, is one of the
grand wonders of the nineteenth century. The proud escutcheon
of the nation, which declaims against the slave trade, is thus
made to bear a blot broader and darker than any other in the
Christian world.

A subsequent chapter on missions to the Chinese, shows what
missionaries have labored for this people, at difierent points,
and who are now thus engaged. It is sufficient, therefore, here
to notice those in Canton ; viz. Messrs. Bridgman and Parker.
Mr. B. has not yet become able to preach in Chinese, but is
making very rapid progress, and has acquired such a knowl-
edge of the written language, as to be able with critical ability to
assist in the revision of the Holy Scriptures, now in progress at
Singapore. He also has some promising Chinese boys under
his daily instruction. His other engagements, besides the study
of the language, are, editing the Chinese Repository, and preach-
ing in English.

Dr. P. has from his arrival been engrossed with medical prac-
tice, for which purpose he was sent out His hospital was com-

MISSIONA&T OPERATIONS. ]j61

menoed in November, 1835, chiefly for diseases of the eye.
BesideDt foreigners wholly support the establishment, (except
Dr. P.'s salary,) at an expense of about sixteen hundred dollars
per annnm. Not only do crowds of patients, with diseased eyes^
resort to him, but many others, only a selection of which can
receive his attention.

Up to the present period, four thousand four hundred persons
have been treated. The cases are described, and in some in-
stances the treatments and results, in Dr. P.'s regular quarterly
reports. His labors are severe, but his health and spirits good,
A satisfactory proof of his skill is found in the friendship and
encomiums of seven or eight English physicians, residing at
Canton and Macao ; some of whom attend him on every opera-
tion day, rendering valuable aid,* and highly applauding his
operations and treatment. He has three native students of
medicine, who receive careful instruction, literary as weU aa
medical, and through whom incalculable blessings may flow to
this people.

There is no Chinese convert at Canton, nor religious services
in that language, nor giving of tracts. Even conversation with
patients in the hospital is ventured upon with caution. A lin-
guist is stationed there, by the local authorities, who narrowly
watches every transaction. The missionaries fully believe that
frequency, or a litde indiscretion, would at once break up the
institution, and perhaps cause them to be driven away.

How far the labors of these excellent brethren are to prepare
the way for Christianity, or for future missionaries, is not clear.
They are certainly earning for themselves the confidence and
esteem of many individuals. But can they transfer these to
others ? If successors keep equally quiet, in respect to religion,
they will remain unmolested, without reference to the present
missionaries. If they do not, these will furnish no precedent,
and their character no protection : opposition might be expected,
as heretofore, and the work must be commenced in fact anew.

Ten days, out of my thirty in China, were consumed in a visit
to Macao. That it was my last point of observation, made me
acquainted with Guztlaff, and would show me Popery under a
new phase, gave peculiai* interest to the visit

The sailing distance from Canton is about seventy miles.
Small packet-boats, with a deck, ply regularly between the two
places, which stop a few minutes at Lintin, and consume gen-
erally about twenty-four hours in the passage.

14*

169 MACAO.

The crowds of boats and junks near Canton, the long line of
English and American shipping m Whampoa Reach, the foit»,
lowers, cultivation, and fishermen, on the way to Lintin, and the
romantic islands and promontories between that place and
Macao, render the voyage, under favorable circumstances, in-
structing and pleasant

Macao, seen from the harbor, wears an aspect of great beautj
and dignity. The crescent curve of the shore, unbroken by any
wharf or jetty, whitened by the foamy surf and sloping sand;
the front range of well-built houses ; the town, rising behind od
different hiJls ; and the bold ridges on either side — make a scene
rarely surpassed. But the shipping lie at the back of the town •
not a movement of conunerce is to be seen ; a few sepoys seem
to be the only moving objects ; and as you land from the httle
sampan, sensations of desolation are scarcely to be suppressed
The first walk through the town dissipates all the poetic antici-
pations awakened by a view from the harbor. Narrow streets;
ill-built houses, beggarly shops, and the total absence of the ap-
pearance of business, create a strong sense of desolation ; and a
few promenades leave you nothing new to see.

Decline seems stamped on every thing, civil and religious.
Instead of its former population of twenty thousand Portuguese
and other foreigners, it has now but four thousand three himdred.
Its extensive commerce is almost annihilated. Several of the
large churches are either in ruins, or used for bairacks. Few
of the houses are kept in perfect repair, and the streets are no
longer thronged with busy passengers. The churches are still
numerous and noble; and evidence is every moment present,
that you are in a Papal town. The bells ring often every day ;
processions, with crucifixes and lighted candles, go and come ;
and priests, with black frocks and cocked hats, are seen in the
streets.

The town is built on two ridges, forming a triangle, of which
the hypotenuse is the secure inner harbor, where all the ship-
ping lie ; but which is gradually filling up. The whole site is
but a section of a promontory extending to the southward, fjx)m
the large island of Heang-shan. A wall, built across the
entire breadth, only seventeen hundred yards from the ex-
treme south point, effectuaHy restricts foreigners to the limits
assigned them, and enables the Chinese, by stopping tlie supply
of provisions, always to bring the Portuguese to terms, if difficul-
ties occur. A great majority of the inhabitants, even within the
Portuguese limits, are Chinese. They have theu: bazar, their

lassioiiA&iss — PRuimrfl-oFncB. 168

templeei^ their commerce, and even their custom-house; and
■eem to be virtually rulers of the place.

• For more than three centuries (that is, since 1537) have the
Pditiiguese occupied Macao. The liistory of the place, during
this long interval is interesting in various respects ; but I can
attempt no sketch of it here. It forms not only a veritable and
practical comment on Popery, but shows it up in an important
aspect; viz. as having bodi power and prevalence, in the
midst of a pagan land. It also exhibits political and commercial
mistakes, worthy to be scanned and weighed by statesmen.

1 of course found the Baptist brethren, Shuck and Roberts,
only students ; so that, as to them, there was neither much for
me to arrange or learn. But though they have so recentiy ar-
rived, 1 was assured by a competent judge, that their prog-
ress in the language was very honorable to themselves. Mr.
S. studies the Mandareen dialect, preparatory to assuming some
poet on the western frontier of China; and Mr. R. that of
Macao, intending to make this his permanent position. I was
happy to make arrangements with Mr. Gutzlaf^ to devote a few
hours a week to their instruction.

Mr. Williams, a printer in the service of the American Board
of Conrniissioners for Foreign Missions, is stationed here. He
has charge of the Honorable East India Company's printing-
office, and has been employed on Medhurst's Dictionary, &c.
The magistrates totally prohibit the printing of Bibles and tracts
in Macao ; so that he is at present left to prosecute his studies
in the language. This office contains two fonts of Chinese
character, and some English. One is of very large size, each
type weighing one tael and two mace, or about an ounce
and a half. Each type was engraved by itself, and cost, for cut-
ting and metal, about seven cents. The font has but one type
in each character : so that it can be of no use, unless in reprint-
ing a dictionary. Seventeen thousand of these types have been
lost, and twenty-seven thousand yet remain. The font was made
at vast expense, by the East India Company, for printing
Morrison's great Chinese Dictionary.

The other font is of the size called '< Columbian," and, like the
first, was cut upon blank faces, and not cast It contains thirty
thousand characters, averaging but two types for each ; so that,
like the other, it cannot be used in printing ordinary books.

With Mr. W. is residing G. T. Lay, Esq., an agent of the
British and Foreign Bible Society, whose recent visits to Borneo,
Celebes, Temate, and other islands in these seas, enabled him to

104 MACAa

ghre me light on several subiecti^ leapccliu g wlndi booka M
me in tlie dark. Mr. L. is distinguifllied as a Bativafiaty aa wi
at for an extraordinary facility in acquiring langaages; aad hii
reflearchefi among tlieae comparatively unknown tribes
fiul to lienefit both science and religion.

Mr. GutzlafT welcomed me with all possible eordiafity ;
our previous correspondence paved the way lor b ueii M a
out circumlocution or formality. He is a Prusmn, about thirtf'
four years of age, small, dark hair and eyes, in €aae hteM,
of great activity, and sprightly in all his motions. His offieecf
interpreter to the superintendent of trade seldom makes de-
mands on his time, while its ample salary fiimiabes him tke
means of much good. No man is more devoted to the canse d
Christ, and few so laborious, as his ten voyages along the coast
mnce his arrival in 1831 amply testify. His chief employment,
at present, is the preparation of tracts, and of a new version of
the Scriptm-es, with the help of Marshman's and Morrison^
versions.

I of course spent many hours with him, listening, note-hook
in hand, to his o{)inions, observations, difficulties, desires, and
purposes ; and his comments on mine. Without the least ap-
parent reserve, and with exceeding earnestness and animation,
he passed on from subject to subject, at the table, in the garden,
and by tlio way-side. All was of China. Not an inquiry had
he to rrmke of where I had been, or what was doing elsewhere.
Not a moment did common-place matters come up. His mind,
full of one grand theme, seemed to spill over spontaneously
every moniont. Though unable to adopt his judgment on many
points, 1 could but admire his zeal, piety, diligence, and hope.

His darling plan is the multiplication of voyages along the
coast, for the distribution of tracts. He thinks he has in this
way, himself, liad access to thirty millions of people ; and cher-
ishes the most animated expectations from a large employment
of this method. But after listening with deep attention to all
his remarks on this important theme, I could not adopt his con-
clusions. The distribution of tracts can only be of use on a
large scale, in preparing the way for living teachers. This
has been done sufficiently, so far as regards the coast ; and we
must continue to do occasionally till teachers be admitted to resi-
dence. But to make it an end, instead of a means ; to pour
annually millions of tracts along the same line of coast; to go
in face of prohibitory edicts, and only as protected by cannon;
and to be at the expense of both tracts and voyage, while so

GUTZLAFF. 166

vrnxxy of the hocka are yet scarcely intelligible, is at best but ft
fery imperfect mode of conducting a mission.

Mrs. G. is an English lady, without children of her own, and
1mu9 taken twenty little pagan girls into her house, where they
receive every advantage, in school and out They are allowed to
come into the parlor, and are in all respects put upon the foot-
ing of pupils in our best boarding-schools. Among them are
two little blind giris, of good parts. As I caressed the poor
little orphans, heard their hymns and portions of Scripture, saw
them read from the New England raised-letter books, and
marked the deep and tender interest of Mrs. G. on their behalf
my heart rejoiced in God. O, how blessed and bright would
this dark world become, if only the spu-it of our glorious Re-
deemer were diffused abroad! What sweet intercourse of
sympathy, generosity, love, and gratitude, would gladden life's
roughest passages !

There is no body of native Christians in Macao, nor any
Protestant convert but a poor gardener, baptized by Mr. Shuck
not long since. I accompanied Mr. G., on the first Sunday in
November, to the houses of some Chinamen, with whom he
conversed in a manner that showed he was no stranger to their
doors. In the evening, as is his custom, he preached in English
to the patients of the Marine Hospital, and a few friends ; but it
was evident this was not his forte. There can be held no regu-
lar meetings for Chinese, nor any open preaching, and only a
scanty and cautious distribution of tracts. Mr. G.'s usefulness,
therefore, can extend little beyond his study and his scholars,
except when on his favorite excursions along the coast

The next evening, was the concert of prayer, held at the house
of C. W. K., Esq., a pious American of the firm of Oliphant
& Co. We numbered but eight ; yet the occasion, the place,
and the circumstances of the people round us, gave deep interest
to a meeting always dear to a Christian. Alas ! that so many
churches lose the pleasure and benefit of this hallowed evening;
to say nothing of the duty of praying, " Thy kingdom come."

T. R. Colledge, Esq., of this place, an eminent and humane
surgeon in his majesty's service, on joining the East India Com-
pany's establishment in 1827, immediately began a system of
gratuitous practice for the Chinese, particularly in diseases of
the eye. The first year, his own resources supplied the funds ;
but in the next, friends contributed, and as confidence among the
Chinese increased, patients multiplied, and a regular hospital
was opened, where patients from a distance were accommodated.

166 MACAa

Up to 1833, four thousand patients were relieved. At that time^
the retirement of a medical officer threw upon Dr. 0. such an
increase of duty, that the hospital was suspended. The insti-
tutiou, however, had so won the favor of all classes, that a
very large and well-adapted house has been purchased for a
permanent establishment, capable of accommodating several
hundred persons.

Mr. G.'s published letters have widely difflisedhis favorite posi-
tion, that *^ China is open." He still maintains this position, though
others have risen to controvert it To me it seems that, whether
it is open to the sMcTnent of missionaries is a matter to be de-
cided only by experiment ; to make which, there are not tdok
than himself and three other missionaries sufficiently versed in
the language. Little good could come of an attempt of this
kind, made by a man unable to teach the people, or to explain
himself before a magistrate. The worst that would probably
happen to a proper man, making the trial, would be, to be placed
in a sedan chair, and transmitted to Macao. How far the sea-
board is open to the distribviion of tracts, is ascertained; that is,
they may be given away in any quantity, if a ship be at hand to
protect the operation. For want of such a vessel, a hundred and
Seventy large boxes of tracts have now for months been laying in
a receiving ship at Lintin, and which dare not be landed either at
Canton or Macao.

I am not only persuaded that, at this moment, China is not
open to the settlement of Christian teachers, but satisfied that
Protestants £u*e far from being ready to have it open. With three
or four men able to preach in Chinese, what could Christendom
do ? Nothing, afler locating these, with each a hundred millions
for his district, but what she can do now — set apart more men
to study the language. It is a great mercy that China should be
shut, at present, to Christian teachers. Were it otherwise, Prot-
estants are without persons to send ; while Popish priests abound
in the East, and would instantly enter in great numbers, making
the field worse for us, if possible, than now.

ChlneM Shoe.

167

CHAPTER VI.

Embark for home — Straits of Caspar and Sunda — Petty Monsoon — Cape-
of Good Hope — Remarkable Phenomenon — St. Helena — False Alarm
•^ Slave Trade — Landhig at Newport — Summary — Reflections.

Besides the sweets of being " homeward bound," the voyage-
firom the East is, in many respects, pleasanter than the outward,
especially when we embark in the fall. The winds are almost,
all fair ; the distance is much less ; the repeated sight of land
breaks up the dreary monotony of four or five months' passage ;
and vessels generally touch at the Cape of Good Hope, or St
Helena, which adds a large amount of interesting information,
and flimishes refreshments to sustain both health and spirits.

The stagnation of trade is now so complete, (November, 1837,)
that but one vessel is loading at Canton for the United States,
and no other expected to sail for six or eight weeks, if so soon.
She belongs to Messrs. Brown and Ives of Providence, and in
her I take passage, grateful for an opportunity to depart, when
my business is finished.

Leaving Macao November 24th, we came down the coast of
Cochin-China, between the Natunna and Anamba groups of
islands, and passing in sight of Middle Island, St. Julien, St
Esprit, St Barbe, &c., reached the Straits of Caspar in ten days.
Here we saw Banca, Pulo Lat, and other islands. A day or two.
more brought to view the beautiful heights of Sumatra, along
which we coasted to the Straits of Sunda, surrounded by noble
scenery. The mountains of Java and Sumatra, the fine peaks
of Cockatoa and Prince's Islands, the numerous minor islands,
the quiet seas, and the glorious skies, make it one of the most
interesting passages I know.

Leaving Java head December 7th, we took the petty monsoon,*
and hauled close upon it, to lat 16° south, where we reached the

* The petty monsoon is a remarkable intrusion on the south-east trade-wind.
It exists six months in the year 5 viz. from November to May, between lat.
T and 10* south, and extending from Madagascar to Java. It is sometimes
broader. We had it as far as lat. 16*. It generally blows fresh, and often
in squalls.

t68 VOTAOE HOME.

regular south-east trade, and rolled before it more than four thou-
sand miles, in about a month. On the 17th of January, 1838, we
came in sight of Africa, and sailed for two days close along the
sublime outline of the mountains which form the ^Capeoi
Storms." The winds here are almost always ahead for home-
ward vessels, which therefore hug the shore, for tlie benefit of
the westerly current ; but we were favored with a gentle ftir
wind all the way round to Table Bay.

No sooner had we dropped anchor off Cape Town, on d»
morning of the 19th, than I hastened ashore to make the best of
the time the ship remained to fill up her water, and procura
stores. Dr. Phillips, the well-known and venerable superintend-
ent of the London Missionary Society's stations in South Afir]€a,
had not yet returned firom his visit to England ; but I found Mr&
P. abundantly able to supply his place. Her complete knowl-
edge of the details of every station, and striking energy of char-
acter, charmed me exceedingly. Making me welcome to her
home, she patiently sufiered herself to be plied with questioofl,
and, on my retiring for the night, furnished documents to read,
calculated to be highly useful to me as a manager of missionary
operations.

Rev. Mr. Locke, Mr. P.'s substitute, gave me his time when
Mrs. P. could not, so that, whether walking or sitting, my pencil
had no rest Long practice has served to stereotype my ques-
tions, so that when I fall among such as can inform, the work of
gathering facts, dates, and numbers, is plain, if not easy.

Few places can be more beautifully situated than Cape Town.
1 made a drawing from the ship ; but the expense of this work is
already so great as to forbid its being engraved. The city occu-
pies a gentle acclivity, on the east side of the bay ; scattered
villas are sprinkled over the adjacent shores ; and in the rear,
upon moderate hills, are pleasant country seats, embosomed
among vineyards and fruit-trees. Behind all, distant but a mile,
is the steep wall-like front of Table Mountain, rising nearly four
thousand feet, almost perpendicularly, without a tree, or scarcely
a shrub, to hide the frowning rocks. In the placid bay about
twenty vessels were lying at anchor, of which no less than eight
were American. There is a small fort, and some other defences;
but none which would be of any avail against an enemy, which
might land elsewhere, and take these batteries in the rear.

The streets of the city are regularly laid out, and well built,
but narrow. The population is about twenty-five thousand ; the
great majority of which are negroes and mulattoes. These
swarm about the town; their wretched trousers and jackets

CAFE OF GOOD HOFE. 1C9

eoDtrasting very disadvantageously with the graceful and snow-
white drapery of servants in India.

It is the middle of January, (1838,) and here, the height of
sumnier. The markets abound with grapes, peaches, apricots,
apples, plums, figs, oranges, lemons, strawberries, mulberries^
melons, &c^ at very low rates. Our supply of oranges, irom
China, had just run out ; so that such an opportunity of repla-
cing our antiscorbutic luxuries was most welcome. The vine-
yards are not trellised like the Italian, or tied to stakes like
the German, but suffered to grow alone, like currant bushea.
This plan is probably necessary, on account of the fierce winds
which often prevail, but, as it sufiers many of the grapes to lie
on the ground, ia perhaps the cause of the earthy taste of the
common Cape wines.

There are at Cape Tovm two Episcopal ministers, four Dutch,
two Lutheran, one Scotch, two Independent, two Methodist,,
one supported by the South Afiican Missionary Society, and
four engaged wholly or partially in schools or secular business ;
making eighteen. The following list of charitable and religious
institutions, though perhaps incomplete, will show that Christians
here are not unmindful of the calls of enlightened philantliropy :
Society for promoting Christian Knowledge ; South African Mis-
sionary Society, instituted 1799; Auxiliary London Missionary
Society ; Auxiliary Wesleyan Missionary Society ; Bilile Union,
instituted 1818 ; Infant School Society, with three schools ; three
schools on the British system ; Ladies' Benevolent Society ; Tract
and Book Society ; Orphan Asylum ; Sick and Burial Society ;
Widows' and Old Women's Society; School of Iiidustr}' for
girls ; and ten Sunday schools containing about fifteen hundred
scholars.

Had the Dutch, who settled this colony nearly two hundred
years ago, been as zealous for the conversion of the natives, as
they were for the introduction of their language, there would, no
doubt, have been a far different state of things among that part
of the population. But though Dutch is now the vernaculur of all
the negroes in this part of the continent, Christianity is the re-
ligion of comparatively few; while more than nine thousand
have adopted the faith of the false prophet Indeed, it is af-
firmed, that they rather preferred that the Hottentots should
become Mussulmans ; being unwilling that their slaves should
acquire such a ground of familiarity as would be produced by a
common Christianity! Even now, a large number of blacks
annually go over to Mahometanism.
voim 11. 15

170 ST. HELENA — FALSE ALARM.

On leaving the Cape of Good Hope, a delightful breeze fi^m d»
south-east brought us at ouce into the regular trade-wind, so that
we scarcely started tack or sheet, till off St Helena, on the 31flt
of January. Squalls and calms, produced by tlie proximity of
this lofty island, kept us near it for twenty-fours ; making us
fiuniliar with its gloomy outline, and allowing us leisure to phi-
losophize on the fate of bloody men. Heavy clouds lowered on
its summits, while dreariness and solitude seemed the on^
tenants of its worthless valleys. May ambitious rulers nefer
forget the impressive lesson of St Helena's exiled emperor!
We left the island to the westward, and, catching *< the trade'
again, reached the equator in about twenty days. He who
most dislikes the sea, must love it in the south-east trade-wind
Such skies, such air, such gentle waters, such quiet in the ebiff
such glorious nights, such security from all shoals and coasts^
and such .steady progress, make up the very poetiy of life upon
the sea.

The north-east trade met us south of the line, blowing with
double the force of the other. Its haziness prevented my noticing
at what latitude the Magellan clouds ceased to be visible. We
however saw them till within two or three degrees of the
equator. They appeared then about 15° above the horizon.
Since leaving the Cape, the thermometer has ranged about W
to 85® in the cabin.

For a number of days after crossing the line, we noticed fine
yellowish sand, deposited on every part of the vessel and rigging.
It could be wiped from the decks, like dust from a table. This,
of course, was from the coast of Africa, above a thousand miles
distant ! I am told this phenomenon is not uncommon, but do
not recollect to have seen it noticed in books.

In the latitude of the West Indies, a suspicious looking
schooner came in sight, and leaving her course, boarded a vessel
a few miles ahead. Soon after, she bore for another, chang-
ing her course again, <;ame down upon us, and ranged lUongside
at musket-shot distance.^ ^She carried the flag of I)onna Maria,
was of the fastest model, too small to be engaged in conmierce,
and had other indications of being a pirate. It seemed evident,
too, she had no particular course, for she had been boxing about
since day-light To be captured, and perhaps murdered, was
now a reasonable expectation ; and I began to think this book
would never see the light After sailing with us a while before
the wind, keeping us in constant expectation of a shot, she slieared
to, and an officer in half-uniform hailed us, saying, "With your

▲ ILA.TEK. 171

lesfe, we will come on board." Of course, it was of do use to
rerist, and our captain sulkily hauled up his courses. We were
somewhat relieved by seeing her boat shove off with but a small
crew. Our ladder and man-ropes were put over the side, and
presently a ruffian-looking man, with side arms, stood upon our
deck. We stood ready to learn our fate ; but he seemed in no
hurry to announce it However, after looking about at every
tfdng, and asking our cargo, destination, &c., he settled our sur-
mises by saying that he wished merely to know his longitude !

The schooner was a slaver, recently captured off Jamaica, by
a British cruiser; and this personage was prize-master. The
daves had been apprenticed on the island by government, as is
fbe custom in such cases, and the vessel was on her way to
Sierra Leone, to be condemned; having the late captain and
one or two of the crew on board. Being destitute of a chro-
nometer, he took this opportunity to ascertain his position, by
comparing the reckoning of the vessels in sight The vessel
was about eighty tona^ burden, (not so large as many of our river
sloops,) and when taken, had on board three hundred and twenty-
six slaves ! Between her decks was but two feet four inches,
so that the unhappy negroes could scarcely sit upright They
were stowed in a solid mass, in a sitting posture, amidst filth
and stench so horrid, that the place was insupportable for days
after they were removed. These vessels are generally fitted out
at Havana, and, if they escape capture one voyage out of four, the
profits are abundant As the officers and crew are not punished,
much less the merchant, there is no want of tools for this infernal
business. As soon as the vessel is condemned at Sierra Leone,
she is sold by auction, and, not being wanted there, the captain
himself becomes the purchaser, and with all his irons, gratings,
and other apparatus, already on board, passes down the coast,
takes in another cargo, and tries his chance again.

Lord Brougham has affirmed, in a late speech in parliament,
that one hundred and eighty-five slave vessels were fitted out
from Havana in the year 1835 ; and that in 1836, the number of
slaves imported into that single city, exceeded twenty-eight
thousand ! In the month of December, 1836, two vessels arrived
at Rio Janeiro, one of which brought five hundred slaves, and
the other seven hundred and eighty ! The average import of
slaves into Rio is about fifty-three thousand! In 1837, there
were imported into one city of Brazil forty-five thousand slaves !
It has b^n recently published, without contradiction, that nearly
two hundred slave voyages are made from Cuba every year,

173 RETURN TO TH£ UNITED STATES.

and that many of these are owned by Englishmen and Avamir
cans. It is to be feared that this awfiil business is now con-
ducted ahnost as extensively as at any former period.

On the 25th of March, 1838, the shores of my native eountiy
<«ice more received me, having made the voyage in a hundred
and twenty days, without disaster. I have abstain^ from epetk-
ing of dangers, escapes, hardships, and inconveniences, ex-
cept where they might make the reader better acquaintod
with the countiy or people through which I was passing ; but
an open acknowledgment is now due to the Father of mercieiB^
and to my friends, whose prayers were not intermitted. In the
East, opportunities of going from port to port are often not te
be had for months ; yet I was never hurried from any place till
my work was done, nor in a single instance detained uselessly.
During an absence from the United* States of two years aiui
a half, I made nineteen voyages by sea, (which consumed fiMir
hundred and sixty-four days,) fourteen voyages by rivers^ and
a land journey of five hundred miles, besides smaller trips
by land and water. The whole distance travelled, including
actual courses at sea, is somewhat more than fifty-three thousand
miles. In all these wanderings, often in dangerous and ill-fitted
vessels, and regions unhealthy, or infested with robbers, I was
never hurt nor molested ; nor was any person hurt or taken sick
where I was. In one of these journeys, it will be recollected, 1
was supposed to be armed with a pair of horse pistols, for which
I afterward found I had no bullets. On all other occasions, I
went without the semblance of a weapon, except a cane.

The entire expense of my mission, including voyages out and
home, presents to chiefs, purchase of curiosities for missionary
rooms, and salary, amounts to about five thousand dollars —
scarcely half of the sum I had supposed would be requisite.
Part of this may be regarded as faJling within the usual ex-
penses of the Board, as on all occasions I acted the part of a
missionary, by preaching through interpreters, conducting the
services of native assistants, and distributing Christian books.
I indulge a hope that the profits of these volumes received by
the Society will repay, in part, the cost of the tour.

The wide field gone over in my weary way is now traced ;
and thousands of facts concerning it are fairly spread out Much
more remains unsaid ; but nothing is kept back, which would
materially alter the nature of the reader's impressions. Deeply

REMARKS. 173

coiLBcious of the imperfections which have attended the dis-
charge of this engagement, I am, nevertheless, cheered by the
fullest conviction that such an agency was essential to the welfare
and vigor of the mission ; that no part of my life has so effectually
promoted the blessed cause for which alone it is desirable to
live; and that the divine presence and aid were never more
manifestly vouchsafed upon any of my endeavors.

It only remains fer me to declare my deep and solenm convic-
tkm that the missionary enterprise is of God. All I have seen,
read, and heard, has served to impress me more and more with
the rectitude, practicability, and usefulness of the work. Our
dctty, as revealed in Scripture, is illustrated and urged in every
part of the field. The missionaries, as a body, are holy and dili-
gent men. I have satisfied myself that the translations are con-
tinually improving ; that the tracts are orthodox and scriptural ;
and that a large part of them are intelligible to the natives.
Evidences of the divine favor are visible ; and are numerated in
a subsequent chapter, though not completely, yet so abundantly,
as that unprejudiced Christians must deem them encouraging.

The personal examination of numerous missionary stations in
the East, (some of them the seat of several distinct bodies of
missionaries ;) a minute knowledge of many adjacent ones ; a per-
sonal acquaintance with nearly ninety ordained missionaries —
Episcopalian, Lutheran, Scotch, Presbyterian, Wesleyan, Inde-
pendent, Congregational, and Baptist, beside wives, assistants,
and native helpers; visits to schools and the bouses of converts;
seeing many heathen in their native state ; witnessing much
missionary labor; attending committees, conferences, prayer-
meetings, and catechisings ; and almost confining my reading to
this subject fer three years, — has satisfied me that the measure
of missionary success is equal to just expectations. The partic-
ular grounds of this decision will be found briefly spread out in
Chapter III Part IV.

Opportunities of usefulness ai*e more extended than ever
before. There are not only more presses and more missiona-
ries, but better tracts ; more of the Scriptures are translated ;
more of our brethren understand the languages where they are ;
the native assistants know more of the plan of salvation; and the
schools are better conducted.

Our incentives to increased action are very strong. Many
young men of great promise, who have devoted themselves to
missionary work, are deterred from presenting themselves to
the societies, because of the uncertainty when they can be sent

15*

174 EETU&N TO THE UNITED STATES.

out, if at alL This ought very seriotisly to engage the ^nfi^
df the churches. Men are pre{iared and willing to go ; and tlw
ehurch does not supply the means. In the mean time, {nnomiaiDg
fields remain unoccupied ; a proper division of labor is not d-
lected at existing stations ; and at some points the whole labor
and e:q)ense, and the entire services of some misaioiiarieB, are ii
danger of being lost, for want of men to take the place of thoee
now engaged, in case of sickness or death. In some instances^
there are for a whole nation but one missionary.

Our visible encouragements are greater than at any fiwmer
period. The number of converts within the year 1837, con-
nected with missions from the United States, exceeds the whole
number of converts, during the first twenty years of the existeDoe
of missionary operations ! In the same missions, religious truth
is now being printed in nearly sixty languages, and at the rate
of millions of pages per annum.

Reader, could you have stood with me over the graves of
Swartz, Carey, Boardman, or Heber, or could you stand beside the
departing ship, where weeping parents give up dear children to
many hardships, and to be seen no more, how would your sacri-
fkies appear in the comparison ? What are you doing for the
spread of Christianity which compares with these ; or with the
widow's mite, which welb <<all her living"? O, examine this
matter. The blood of the heathen may be on your soul. Have
you properly satisfied yourself that it is not your duty to gototht
heathen^ Are you sure you are not required to give more to this
cause ? If it be the duty of some to go abroad, and of others to
give up their sons and daughters, what ought you to do ? Must
the whole body of Christians do their duty ? or will the services
of a part excuse the remainder ? Either those who go on mis-
sions are egregiously misled, and might without guilt have re-
mained at home, enjoying all the sweets of civilized society,
religious privileges, and family intercourse ; or you are fatally
deluded in supposing that you acquit yourselves of all obligation
by paying a paltry dollar or two, per annum or per month. What
shall be said, then, of those who do not contribute tovirards spread-
ing the knowledge of Grod and truth among the nations, so much
as the price of a gewgaw, or a ribbon, in a whole year ? O Lord,
lay not this sin to thy people's charge ! Let thy church arise
and shine, that the Gentiles may come to her light, and kings
to the brightness of her rising.

PART IV.

SSERTATIONS, TABLES, &c.

CHAPTER L

MISSIONS TO THE CHINESE.

BOW oeeapied — Sudiya •— Mogoung — Bamoo — Umerapoora —
W — PoDtiana — Sambas — Banca — Other Bodies of Chinese -— Ver-
)f the Holy Scriptures — ^ Proportion of Chinese who can read —
nportance of distributing Tracts and Bibles overrated — Comparison
Modes of Printing — IMfficulty of the Language — Dictionaries,
■an, &c. — Present Missionaries to the Chinese — Other Sino-
— Number of Ccmverts — Best Authors on China.

accounts given of Canton and Macao, in a preceding
, show to what extent those cities can be regarded as
Gury stations ; and how little prospect there is of an early
»n to missionary efforts in China proper. Hence the
y of establishing missions for this people in other places,
hey are found residing in large numbers. Stations now
ily at Canton, Macao, Malacca, Singapore, and Bankok,
h I have detailed the facts; and Batavia, which I did
» Penang has been occupied by Mr. Dyer, but he is now
Lcca. The general and deep interest felt by the Christian
m behalf of the Chinese, induces me to present, at one
te other points which seem now to invite missionaries,
have been named which I know to be unsuitable ; there
some of which I know nothing.

acing missionaries at these places, we cany the gospel to
aese, though not to China. Beside the numerous body
nanent residents are thousands who return to their own
after amassing a competency ; and thousands who never
» be citizens of China, come and return annually, in the
nd caravans. Tracts may be sent by such to eveiy part

176 MISSIONS TO THE CHUfSSX.

of the coast. Converts may be made at such stations, who sbaJl
become at no distant period the best of missionaries, to ihek
own land ; a quiet abode is secured where the Holy Scriptures
may be translated; schools may be taught; and many other
services rendered, quite as important as any which could be pe^
formed in China itself

1. SuDiTA, a station of the American Baptist Board in Upper
Asam, on a branch of the Burampooter. Several missioiiariei
and a printing establishment are located here, prosecuting labon
among the tribes of the vicinity.

The frontier of China is not now accessible fix>m Sudiji.
Some rude tribes of Singphoos intervene, who preserve their in*
dependence, and render travelling by this route highly danger-
ous. British influence, however, seems &st extending in that
direction, and a free intercourse for whites may ere long be
secured.

Some of the chiefs, for an established compensation, grant a
fi^e passage and escort to an annual caravan of Chinese to Thi-
bet It generally amounts to about six hundred persons, wiio
collect on the bordere of Yunnan, and proceed to Lassa, making
the journey in six weeks. Credible natives affirm that a good
road extends the whole distance from Lassa to Pekin, and that
letters are carried from one capital to the other in twenty days.

We may hope that Christian zeal will soon make this road
and this caravan the means of conveying divine truth to China.
Perhaps even now, the caravan might sometimes be reached
from Sudiya, for the distribution of tracts.

2. Mo-GOUNG, or MoNGHMAORONo, is a large, fortified city, on a
branch of the Irrawaddy River, about 25° 2(y, inhabited chiefly by
Shyans, Chinese, and Singphoos. It is said by some to be the
ancient capital of the kingdom of Bong ; but whether there ever
was such a kingdom, is not clear. It is more probable that Mo-
goung was, at an early period, a part of the Tai or Shyan coun-
try, and the metropolis of the northern section. Good roads, fiw
horses or bullocks, extend in various directions, particularly to
Asam, Yunnan, and Bamoo. The trade to China is almost equal
to that of the latter city. The resident Chinese are of a respect-
able class. The contiguity of the famous amber mines* brings
numerous merchants from Yunnan, Munipore, and other adjacent
countries. The traders from China stay some weeks, and gen-

* The price of the best kind, on the spot, is about three shilliDgs steriiqg^
or seventy cents a pound.

■oeouiro — bamoo, 177

Kally retom from year to year ; bo that suocesBiye instnictioiii
ought be given them.

Beesa, called by the Burmans Be^anoung, and by the Shyans
WUeungf is but about eighty miles, north by west, from Mogoung.
This is one of the principal Singphoo cities, between which
and Sudi3ra there is constant and free intercourse. I had the
pleasure of meeting, at Ava, the fiunous Duffii Gam, prince of
die Beesa Singphoos, who assured me that missionaries to his
e oimlry should be well received and protected. He imparted
many of the fiiets I now give, respecting that part of Burmah and
its various tribes.

a Bamoo. This city (lat 24"^ 17' north, long. 96° 55^ east,) lies
cm the Irrawaddy River, near the junction of the Tapan, or
Bamoo, or Pinlang River, which comes in from China. It is
called by Hamilton Bhanmo, and by some writers Bamau. The
old tovim stood on this branch, but the modem one is a mile below.
The present population is fourteen thousand, of whom one tenth
are Chinese. "E&eh side of the river, for miles above and below,
presents the appearance of a continued village ; and the surround-
ing country is one of the most wealthy and populous portions
of the Burman empire. About twenty-five miles to the south-
ward, but much more by the course of the river, is the conflu-
ence of the Lung-shun, which also rises in China ; and which,
as well as the Bamoo, aflbrds a boat navigation into Yunnan
during the rainy season. Boats come up from Ava in twelve
days ; and, when the waters are high, vessels of a hundred and
fifty tons may proceed a hundred and thirty miles &rther.

A great trade is carried on from Bamoo to China, part of
it en route to Ava. From five to six thousand Chinamen ar-
rive every cold season from Yunnan, causing a resort at the
same time of traders from all parts of Burmah and Munipore.
This intercourse was found existing when Europeans first visited
the country, and the Portuguese are said to have established
factors here in the sixteenth century.

As the caravans travel in the dry season, they proceed by land,
crossing several ridges of mountains, and a country occupied by
Shyans, to Santa ; from whence they disperse. Santa, though in
China proper, is peopled principally by Shyans, who are also
numerous in most other parts of Yunnan. They spread also
over all the country eastward of Bamoo, and are called by the
Burmans, Taroukj or Chinese Shyans. A large part of them
i^ak Chinese.

Bamoo would be a more pleasant location than either Ran-

178 MlflfllOiri TO THX GHUnSB.

goon or Ava, except for its distance from the fleaboard. Tki
people are more refined than in most parts of Bnrmah, dna
more completely, live in lai^ comfortable houses, have peaeoM
halHts, and seem particularly intelligent The Chinese oceupyi
part of the city to themselves, chiefly one wide, dean strMt
Hiey have about a hundred shops, built of Uue brick, and tiled;
and a handsome temple. The Shyan quarter contains eight
hundred houses, well built, chiefly of wood. Most of the
streets are paved, and all have fine shade-trees. The vicinity ii
highly improved; and Mr. Kincaid speaks of an iron snapeoMB
bridge.

Besides its reference to China, this is obviously an impoitnt
point for a mission, not only to the Burmans and Shyans, but the
Kah-Kyens. Large numbers also of Asamese, Singphoos, Mun-
iporeans, Yos, and others, resorting here for trade, demand
attention. At least four missionaries, one for Chinese, one ftr
Shyans, one for Burmans, and one fi>r the Kah-Kyens^ are
wanted here ; or more properiy two missionaries to each of
these classes. It is not certain that operations, or even i
residence there, would now be permitted; but every day in-
creases the probability.

4. Umerapoora, six miles above Ava, and formerty the me-
tropolis of Burmah, has a population of about ten thousand
Chinese, mostly married to Burman females. It is also the
resort of many young men fix>m China, who remain only a few
years. During all the dry season, small caravans arrive every few
weeks ; amounting, in the whole, to several thousand in a season.
The route is principally through Thennee, in about lat. 22° 4(y,
long. 98° KV, said by natives to contain three thousand houses,
and destined, I hope, at no distant period, to be a missionaiy
station. By the caravan, a regular communication with Ava
could be maintained. Near the city are extensive sugar planta-
tions, wrought by Chinese, and furnishing a considerable quanti-
ty for different parts of the country.

Many considerations invite to the early location of a mission-
ary at this city, who should acquire the dialect spoken in Yun-
nan,* and the west of China; and be prepared to cross the

* The province of Yunnan, of which mention is made so oAen, is one of
the fairest and most populous in all China, and forms the eastern boundary
of Burmah. Du Halde sets down its population at eight millions, and that of
Sechuen, the adjacent province, at twenty-seven millions. Outzlaff, from the
government census, gives Yunnan fifteen millions, and Sechuen, twenty-one
milUoDS.

ZEBOCAL 179

firontier at the first fiivorable moment. A good teacher, if not
procuraUe in the place, might probably be obtained easily from
the caravana Among the traders are educated men, who would
l^adly engage for two or three years at the usual wage& The
city itself furnishes ample scope for the labors of several mis-
sionaries to the Chinese, and the government would not, proba-
bly, offer obstructions ; as they permit all foreigners to exercise
what religion they choose. Mr. Kincaid has several times been
invited to accompany the caravan to China, and promised every
attention.

5. Zemmai, about four hundred miles north from ^ankok, is
called by the natives as above, by the Siamese Changmaif or
CSumgnof, by Loubiere ChanU, in Modem Universal History
Jangomoj and in Malte Brun's atlas, ^utimaL It contains twenty-
five thousand inhabitants, and is the residence of the prince, or
Chobwaw of all the southern Laos. The River Meinam is navi-
gable thus far for boats.

Part of what is now Siam, appears to have formerly belonged
to this district, and formed an independent kingdom ; but the
period of the dismemberment and reduction of their country
does not appear. For several generations, they have been al-
ternately tributary to Siam and Burmah. At present, they are
virtually independent, but pay a nominal homage to both
countries.

Very considerable intercourse is kept up by caravans with
China. These go and come during six months of the year, in
small companies, making an aggregate of several thousand men;
each trader having twelve or fifleen loaded mules, or ponies ; and
sometimes elephants are employed. A large male elephant
costs two hundred and fifty dollars, and carries about twelve
hundred pounds. A small female costs about forty dollars,
and carries one third the weight The route is over mountains
and deserts, and is performed with difficulty.

Zenmiai has the advantage of regular and frequent inter-
course with Ava, Maulmain, and Bankok. Standing on a branch
of the Meinam River, the intercourse with the latter city by
boats is very considerable. The flood-tide not being felt much
above Ayuthia, tlie voyage up occupies twenty-five days. Boats
come down in less than half the time.

Dr. Richardson, of Maulmain, has several times visited Zem-
mai, and has made valuable communications, respecting the
route and inhabitants, to the supreme government of India. He
met with no difficulty, and performed the journey in twenty-five

180 MISSIOirB TO THE GHIZIBSB.

di^ travelling, as caravaiis geDerally do in these regionB, abotft
ten miles per day. Droves of bullocks have been several tinM
brought hence to Maulmain for the troops, and the intercoum
is likely to increase.

Merchants from Zemmai visit Ava every year ; and sometiiiM
dvil and military officers. They reach Mo-nay or Mong-iiy
(kit fXP 4(y, long. 97° 4(y) in twenty days, and thenoe to Avaia
fifteen more. Monay is a large city, and the seat of govemmeat
fixr another division of Shyans. I met the governor, or Chob-
waw, in Ava, at the morning levee of the principal Woongyee^
who encouraged me to send missionaries to his people, and
made many kind assurances.

Besides the claims of Zemmai as a station for the Chinese, it
presents still more in relation to the natives. The whole country
round is peopled with a density very uncommon in Farther
India. Within a circle of fifty miles are the cities of Lagoung,
Moungpai, and Moungnam, each with twenty thousand inhab-
itants; Labong, with fourteen thousand; and several smaller
citiea The people are mild, humane, intelligent, and prosper-
ous. Opium-smoking and gambling are almost unknown. Al-
most every article wanted by a missionary can be had in the
bazars, and at low rates. A fat cow costs but one dollar.

The tracts in course of publication at Sudiya would probaUy
be intelligible to the people of Zemmai and vicinity. Four im-
married men are urgently needed at this station ; two for the
Shyans, and two for the Chinese.

6. PoNTiANA, on the west side of the Island of Borneo, stands
on a river of the same name, nearly under the equator. Being
a Dutch settlement, protection, and the comforts of civilized life,
are secured to the missionary. Its distance from Batavia is four
hundred miles, and from Singapore three hundred; the trade
with each place being constant, both in native and European
vessels.

The city contains but about three hundred Chinese, but in the
interior are thirty thousand, engaged in working the gold and
other mines. There were formerly Catholic priests here, but
they have left no proselytes. This station is salubrious, safe, ac-
cessible, cheap, and every way promising. Numerous junks
constantly trade from here to different ports on the coast of
China, by which any quantity of tracts may be distributed.

7. Sambas stands on the same side of Borneo, about eighty
miles northward of Pontiana. As a position for a Chinese mis-
sionary, it resembles Pontiana in all important respects. There

SAMBAS — BAirCA. 181

are aboat fifty Dutch mhalHtaiitis and many Malays, Dayas, Bu-
gUf iLc The Chmese m the city do not exceed two hundred ;
but there is another body of forty thousand in the rear. Uke
tiie others, they are nominally subject to the Dutch, because
lying within territory claimed by them; but they pay no taz^
justice is administered by their own rulers, and they are in fiict
independent Tliey hold daily intercourse, by an inland route,
with the above named body of Chinese on the Pontiana River.

The American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions^
have stationed here the Rev. Messrs. Arms and Robbins, as
missionaries to the Dayas.* They commenced the study of that
language, but, finding the Malay would be more useful, have
turned to that The DKy^ language is divided into some thirty
different dialects, none of which are reduced to writing ; and is.
so poor in words, that the Scriptures could scarcely be made in-
telligible in a translation. As missionary zeal must create all
the readers^ it has been thought preferable to teach Malay, and
give them a literature in that language. I am satisfied that it
would be better to make English their learned language, rather
than Malay. In this case, so suuii as rtsaders were raised up^*
they would have access to all literature and works of piety. In
the other, ages must elapse before there can be a valuable
literature in that language. The teaching to read is but a
fraction of labor compared to enriching a language with valuable-
books.

8. Banc A is an island about one hundred and thirty miles
long, and thirty-five broad, lying in the strait of the same name.
The inhabitants are Malays, Chinese, aboriginal mountaineers^
and Orang Louts. The Malays are not very numerous, and'
prone to indolence. The tribes of the interior reside in a state
of great rudeness and poverty. The Orang Louts, or « men of
the sea," reside chiefly in little prows, along the coast ; deriving
their precarious subsistence from the waters. The Chinese are
the strength of the colony, carrying on almost all the trades, but
especially the operations of mining for tin. Their exact number
is not ascertained ; but they amount to many thousands, and keep
up constant intercourse with their mother country.

This island is not deemed particularly unhealthy; and being
in the very highway of commerce, offers many facilities for a
Chinese mission. _^___^_^^__

» This word is often wriUen Dayak. But the final letter n a, gulturally and
suddenly pronounced. The same is the case with Pontiana, BaUa, and all that
class of words.

VOL. It 16

182 .mssioirs to the chuiesx.

Of Singapore and Bankok, as Btadons for missionaries U
Chinese, I have spoken elsewhere. Penang has been occupied faf
the London Missionary Society, and may be resumed. It badfim
1836) nine thousand Chinese inhabitants.

There are other large bodies of Chinese, with some of lyhom
missionaries might probably be stationed. On the Island of
Java are probably two hundred thousand, thirty-two thousand of
which are in Batavia ; on Bintang, seven thousand ; on Sumttn,
three thousand. Tringano, Patani, and other towns on the east
eoast of Malaya, have each several hundred or more ; but oSac
no encouragement at present as stations.

The fiicts exhibited in this sketch seem meagre, but comimBe
all the valuable result of diligent inquiries ; omitting, however,
what has been made public by others, or mentioned in other
parts of this work.

So &r as the salvation of the bulk of Chinese, reaidaU in
foreign countries, is concerned, the missionary in some of these
places need not acquire their language. They consist, in great
part, of the progeny of Cliinamen married to natives, whose
mother tongue, therefore, is the local language. Many of them,
wearing the full Chinese costume, know nothing of that lan-
guage. Most of them learn to speak it on conunon subjects,
and some few are taught to read a little ; but they could not
be usefully addressed by a missionary in that language.

Perhaps the best plan would be, beside stationing missionaries,
(two or three in a place, to learn the language, distribute tracts,
&c.,) at these various outposts, to collect a considerable number
at some eligible point, say at Malacca or Singapore, where, in
classes, and under competent teachers, native and others, they
might pursue their studies without the interruptions incident
to the occupancy of a missionary station. Much money would
thus be saved, as well as much time and much health. The
ladies, not keeping house, could study in class with their hus-
bands. Persons of experience, observation, and ability in the
language would thus be raised up, qualified to assume all the
practicable stations, in China or out of it

There are two entire versions of the Holy Scriptures into
Chinese — Marshman's, of Serampore, in five volumes 8va;
and Morrison and Milne's, in twenty-one volumes 8vo. The
former was commenced about a year before Dr. Morrison ar-
rived in China ; but both were finished and printed about the

VERMovs OF tcRiFrcrmz — TRACTS. m

time, (1823) and have been largely distribeted, in suecearif*
effitionfi. Both yersions are verbal and literal ; so much so m
to prove objectionable to present missionaries. Though not
likely to be reprinted, they are eminently valuable, as the base*
of a new version.

A third translation is in progress, by Messrs. Medhurst and
Gotzlafir. The New Testament, which was revised in concert
f^h J. R. Morrison, Esq., and Rev. Mr. Bridgman, has been
printed firom blocks, at Singapore, and lithographed at Batavia.
ft is in process of revision for a second edition. Genesis and
Exodus are also in press, the Pentateuch ready, and the rest of
the Old Testament in progress. Objections have been made to
this version, as being too loose and paraphrastical. The trans-
lators of course deny the charge, but the British and Foreign
Bible Society have as yet withheld their aid. The character
and attainments of the translators, and the immense advantage
of having two distinct and independent versions before them,
seem to authorize a confidence that it is a great improvement

There have been printed in this language, beside the above-
named editions of Scripture, about ninety-five dififerent tracts^
and twenty-five broad-sheets; amounting in all to about two
thousand octavo pages of reading matter!

The number of portions of Scripture and tracts already
distributed amounts probably to millions ; but the exact quantity
cannot be ascertained.

The distribution of Scriptures and tracts from out-stations, to
be borne by trading junks to the coasts of China, is not unim-
portant, but has, I think, been overrated. Christians seem dis-
posed to regard our duty to China as likely to be accomplished
cheaper and easier than it really is ; and to hope that Bibles
and tracts, with merely a few missionaries, will do the work. We
are in danger, on the other hand, of being discouraged, be-
cause greater fruits have not resulted from all the labor and ex-
pense bestowed in this way. Two facts must be borne in mind —
First, that few Chinamen can read understandingly ; and secondly,
that our books and tracts have been for the most part so unper-
fect in their style, as to be far less likely to make a propep
impression than a tract given in this country.

The ability to pronounce the characters, or rather some two or
three hundred of them, out of the many thousand, is very gen-
eraL Hence a man taking a tract, will proudly begin to read off

184 laSBIORS TO THX GHmXflBU

what he can, that is, call off the letters. But this does not
pro^e him to understand one word of what he reads, as I ha?e
ascertained many times. He may not even understand a word
when the book is correctly read to him. The written language
and the spoken, are in fact two difierent languages. After
having questioned well-educated Chinese in various places^
heard the opinions of judicious missionaries, and personal^
examined many through an interpreter, I am deliberately confi-
dent that not more than one Chinese man in fifty can read so
as to understand the plainest book, and scarcely any females^
except among the very highest classes.

A few instances of tlie difierence between the written and
spoken language will make this plain. In the Taychew dialect,
the word ncmg means ^^man;** in the written language it is
diew. E means << chair ; " it is written Ke. Leng means ** be-
ndes ;" it is written jong. Took means ^ large ; " in writing it is
%f. Jlw means *<to learn;" it is written hade In the Hokeen
dialect, now lamg means << two men ; " in writing it is ye jeau
Njgeo lay means '< brother;" in writing it is haw. Hence, when
the Scriptures are read in Chinese worship, it is as neces-
sary to go over it in the vulgar tongue, as it was to the Jews to
have a Chaldee paraphrase and interpretation.

It will naturally be asked, Why not translate the Scriptures and
print tracts in each colloquial dialect? One reason is enough —
There are no characters to express the words. Strange as it
seems, there is no way of writing a multitude of words used
every day, by every body !

The advantages of book distribution are further abridged by
the imperfections of style and manner, from which few of them
are free. I am assured by missionaries, by Leang Afa, and by
private Chinese gentlemen, that neither Marshman's nor Mom-
son's Bible is fully intelligible, much less attractive. The same
is the case with many of the tracts ; and some of them have been
found wholly unworthy of circulation. SuflScient time has not
elapsed to make the books accurate, intelligible, and idiomatic.
The snatching away of ship loads can have had little other effect
than to prepai'e the people to expect efforts to propagate Christian-
ity, and to awaken inquiry. If these efforts are not soon made, the
efiects of what has been done may cease to be useful, and even
become obstructive. Exertions therefore should at once be made
by all Christian sects, to place men in safe and advantageous
'places to study the Chinese language.

BLOCK-FEinmrO^ METALLIC TTFE. 18S

Et 18 known that the Chinese print on wooden blocks, and have
possessed the art for eight hundred years. Some good judges
atiU prefer this system for the printing of the Scriptures ; and
il certainly possesses advantages in some respects. The process
is to write the words on thin paper, which is then pasted upon
a proper block, and the cutter removes with chisels all but the
black fiiee of the letter. It is thus a safe and simple mode of
stereotyping. Alterations are made by cutting out the error, in*
seiting a plug of wood, and engraving again the proper words.
When the size of the letter is not very small, a set of blocks vnll
give twenty thousand perfect impressions ; it may then be re-
touched at an expense of one fifth the original cost, and give five
thousand copies more. A small table, two or three simple
brushes, and a little China or Indian ink, form all the apparatus
necessary for printing from blocks. A set of blocks for the new
testament may be cut at Singapore for about three hundred and
fifty dollars. The expense of each copy complete, including
paper and binding, is about fifty cents.

The use of movable metallic type was introduced by Mr.
Lawson, of the Serampore mission, numy years ago ; and from
such were Marshman's Bible and some other works printed.
The great expense of cutting punches induced the Serampore
printers to have the most rare letters cut on the face of blank
types, so that out of three thousand letters only fourteen hundred
were cast from matrices. The work of completing punches for
the whole has been lately resumed, and they will soon be able
to cast all the required letters. The size is what our printers
call ^ English," and is greatly admired by the natives.

The labors of Mr. Dyer, now of Malacca, have been already
mentioned in my journal of the visit to that city ; and the char-
acter and extent of the fonts at Macao have been stated in
the last chapter. M. Pauthier, at Paris, has cut punches, and
cast a font about the size of that at Serampore. It is exceed-
ingly beautiful, but somewhat strange to a Chinese eye, from the
use of different punches to make the same matrix. It extends to
about nine thousand characters, and will, no doubt, prove an
important aid to missionary operations.

A feir statement of the comparative advantages of block printing,
lithography, and movable type, is given in Vol. IIL of the Chi-
nese Repositoiy. Stereotyping from wooden blocks, has been
done on a small scale in Boston, but is utterly out of the ques-
tion. Many years must elapse before any version of Scripture,
or other productions, will deserve such perpetuity. Stereotyping

16*

186 msBioirs to the ghiubsb.

18 never economical except where frequent and small edition
of the same work are required.

Books can be manufactured by the Chinese method, at a ooil
not exceeding that of metallic type ; beside saving the salaiy of
an American or European printer.

The impression very generally prevails, that almost insuperable
difficulties lie in the way of the foreigner who attempts to leant
Chinese. But the contrary opinion is maintained by varioug
persons with whom I had conversation. The late superintendent
of British trade, who resided many years at Canton, acquired
great proficiency in the language, and has published the beat
general account of China now extant, says, ** The rumored diffi-
culties attendant on the acquisition of Chinese, from the great
number and variety of the characters, are the mere exaggerations
of ignorance. The roots, or original characters, or w^hat, by a
species of analogy, may be called its alphabet, are only two hun-
dred and fourteen in number ; and might be reduced to a much
smaller amount by a little dissection and analysis. To assert
that there are so many thousand characters in the language, is
very much the same thing as to say that there are so many thou-
sand words in Johnson's Dictionary. Nor is a knowledge of the
whole at all more necessary, for every practical purpose, than
it is to get all Johnson's Dictionary by heart, in order to read
and converse in English."

This opinion seems corroborated by several facts. In printing
the entire Bible, only about three thousand five hundred charac-
ters are required. Mr. Dyer in ascertaining the most important
letters to be cast, caused -* 'large quantity of Chinese histories,
poems, and other books, to be examined ; and found only three
thousand two hundred characters employed. The Chinese penal
code contains less than two thousand different words. The New
Testament contains less than three thousand. Of the forty thou-
sand characters in Morrison's Dictionary, more than half are
entirely obsolete, and most of the remainder very uncommon.

To gather a sufficient number of words, therefore, for all the or-
dinary labors of the missionary, cannot be difficult To master
the language fully, so as to write critically in it, must be exceed-
ingly difficult. Dr. Morrison, who probably proceeded farther
in the acquisition of the language than any other Eiu*opean,
always declared himself far from the goal. His advice to stu-
dents is, not to undertake Chinese as though it is a very easy
thing to acquire, nor be discouraged under an impression that

DIFFICUIiTT OF THB I.AlfeUAGK — HELPS. 1^

die difficulty is nexf to inwrmountable. Medhurst declares, that
** the formidable obstacles which have frightened English stu-
dents, are considerably reduced by a comparison with our own
luiguage, and vanish entirely before the patient assiduity of the
determined scholar.** And Dr. Marshman affirms that ^the
Chinese language is little less regular in its formation, and
scarcely more difficult of acquisition than the Suuscrit, the Greek,
or even the Latin."

Helps to the study of Chinese are now somewhat numerous^
though few are of much utility to a beginner. The following
list is nearly or quite complete. Scarcely any of the works being
procurable in the £ast, except at one or two places, missionaries
should collect what they can before leaving home.

De Guigne, Diet Chinois, 181.^ French and Latin. One
large iblio of 1200 pages : contains 13^16 words.

Morrison's Chinese and English Dictionary 6 vols, quarto.
Fart L follows the imperial Chinese Dictionary, made in 1714, and
contauis 40,000 words. Part IL is a selection of 12,000 words,
which alone are now used. Part IIL is English and Chinese.
Tills great work was printed at the expense of the East India Com-
pany, at their press in Macao, and cost £12,000. The first part
was issued in 1816, and the last in 1823. It is for sale in Lon-
don at $60 per copy. One half of the edition, say three hun-
dred and fifly copies, remain on hand.

Medhurst's Dictionary of the Hokeen or Fuhkeen dialect, in 1
vol. 4to., very valuable. The printing was begun at Macao, in
1830, and finished in 1836. Three hundred copies only were
printed, many of which are on hand. The cost of the edition,
not including types, was $6000. It is sold at $10 per copy.

Gon^alves, a learned Catholic of Macao, has published a good
Dictionary, Chinese-Portuguese and Portuguese-Chinese.

Premare, Notitise Ling. Sinicee, printed at Malacca, is valuable
to beginners, though very imperfect

Remusat, Elemens de la Gram. Chin. Paris, 1822, is an im-
provement on Premare ; but those who can afford it will do '
well to have both.

Marshman's Chinese Grammar is a learned and very practical
treatise ; valuable both to the beginner and the advanced
student

Morrison's Chinese Grammar is very brief, and has been
superseded by the preceding works.

Gon calves Chinese Grammar is written in Portuguese, and is
valuable.

18B msHaNs to tss cbuossc.

Kkproth, Chrdfitomathie Chinoiae, is one of the best elemeiil>
ity books a student can procure.

Beside missionaries^ there are other gentlemen proeecutrng
Chinese literature) whose labors cannot fail to aid our holycaiML
The list is not long, and deserves to be noted. The nniverntiei
of Munich, Paris, and London, have each a professor of
Chinese. F. C. Newman fills the first, M. JoUen the second;
and Rev. S. Kidd, late missionary at Malacca, the third. M.
Pauthier, at Paris, has furnished several translations. There otb
also Huttman, Manning, Davis, Staunton, and Thorns, in £ki^
land; all of whom have published translations of Chinese woriu

Several Chinese works have been published with translatioDS,
which offer great assistance to the student I will name onhf
ioch as can be readily procured.

M. Julien has given, in French, ^Itengsteen, seu Mencios;*
^Blanche et Bleu ;" and other pieces of light Chinese literature.

Remusat has published, in the same manner, the Chung-yuog,
one of << the four books" entitled **> L'Invariable Milieu," also the
^ Two Cousins," and some others.

«The four books" are also given in English by the late Mr.
Collie of Malacca.

«The Sacred Edict," translated by Milne, is exceedingly
usefiil; as the original, instead of the ancient and difficult
style, is in the most modem colloquial diction.

The "Study for Grown Persons," a very famous classic, is
published in English by Marshman in his " Clavis ; " and very
lately by Pauthier in French.

The ** Life and Works of Confucius" were published by Mareh-
man at Serampore in 1809 ; both the origincd and a translatioA.

The " Chinese Dialogues," by Morrison, have not only a literal
rendering of every word, but a general rendering of each sen-
tence, and the pronunciation given in Roman letters, according to
the Mandareen dialect They are an invaluable assistance.

The "Life of Mencius" is given in English by Milne.

J. F. Davis, Esq. late superintendent of British trade at Canton,
has published "Chinese Novels and Tales," "The Happy Umon,"
^ Moral Maxims," and some smaller pieces.

J. R. Morrison, Esq. recommends that the student, after mas-
tering Remusat's Grammar and Klaproth's Chrestomathy, should
Study Marshman's Grammar and Morrison's Dialogues, and, after
that, any of the rest he can procure. Davis's Moral Maxims, art
the best substitute for the Dialogues.

A multitude of works upon China are extant, both in Latiii

AUTHORS ON CHIlfA — KUIARX8. 189

and several of the languages of Europe. Davis gives a cata-
logue of about miy. The general reader will find the best and
latest information in Macartney's Embassy, by Staunton ; Barrow's
China; Morrison's View; Abeel's Narrative; Ellis's Journal;
and superior to all, Davis's ^ General Description of the Empire
af China." A large amount of interesting facts may be had,
alao^ fix>m the Chinese Gleaner, printed at Malacca, from 1817
to 1821; The Royal Asiatic Society's Transactions, published
at London, after 1823; The Asiatic Society's Journal, printed
at Calcutta; and the Chinese Repository, published at Can-
ton, since 1822.

No heathen nation has so little excuse for idolatry as China.
Her civilization and commerce ought to set her above it Her
literature is far from contemptible, and stands distinguished
firom that of every other heathen people, in not being wrought up
with mythological legends. The system is thus lefl to itself!
The priesthood has less influence than in other countries, and are
in many cases not above general contempt. There are diversities
of fiuth, which should awaken a spirit of inquiry. Her learned
men are fully aware, that the nations who interchange com-
modities with her, hold to the Divine Unity ; and they should
diligently investigate the evidences on so momentous a theme.
But much more is she deprived of excuse by the fact, that from the
earliest periods of the church, messengers of salvation have been
fi-eely sent to her. The Tartar provinces were taught the truth
by the first Nestorians. There are strong reasons for believing,
that up to the eighth or ninth century, the Syrian churches con-
tinued to send preachers into the heart of China. Under Inno-
cent IV., in the thirteenth century, the Monguls were made
acquainted with Christianity. When Portugal spread her power
over the East, her ministers every where carried the knowledge
of the true God ; and every Catholic country in Europe fur-
nished missionaries and money. Whatever may be said of the
priests, who from that time pressed the introduction of Chris-
tianity, and of the corruptions they mixed with it, still it was the
glorious doctrine of the Divine Unity. The true God was set
before them. Every part of the empire was pervaded by the
discussion of the new faith. Prime ministers, princesses, queens,
and emperors, became converts and patrons. Thousands and
tens of thousands saw and acknowledged the truth. Numerous
distinguished youth were taught and trained by a body of

Ill ■miom AMomm tbb cmRsix.

pvi00t9 difltnifuithed in aU ages for learning and scienoQb TVm^
ihej were Jesuits ; but that very many of tiiem were holy and
devoted men, is proved by their pure lives, severe labors, innu-
merable privations, and serene martyrdom. The youth thus
taught formed the flower of the country, and never could haia
divested themselves of the conviction of the folly of BoodhisiBb
It was not till the comparatively late period of ITS^ when the em-
peror Yung Ching set himself furiously to the work, that perse-
eution became wholly destructive ; nor was Christianity whol^
put down, and the places of worship demolished, till the reign of
Kea-king, who came to the throne in 1795^ Even now^thflia
are Catholic Christians scattered over the country. Many of
their priests remain, and almost every year fresh ones eoDtrive
to enter ; while native preachers keep together, here and there,
little bodies of disciplea Thus, almost without ceasation, has
China been summoned to forsake her abominations. Yet in no
oonntry is there a more umversal and assiduous oddictednesi
to the frivolous rites of their worthless superstition* It nu^
be most truly said to her, in the language of Ezekiel, <<Tbou
hast built unto thee eminent places^ and hast made thee a high-
place in every drett.^

CHAPTER a

THE MISSIONARY FIELD IN AND AROUND BURMAH.

Bmwaak Proper — Pegams -— Tenasserim Provinces *- Arracanese —
Karens — Sbyaas -* Toungtlioos — > Tswahs -^ Kahs — Wahs— Sdongt
*— iCamB-nees — Lowas — Eceafoat-Kulas — Ques — Bongs — I^baiMOf
«— Kadoos — Yaws — E!ogyees '— Kyens — > Paloungs ^ Kab-Jiyens >«*
Siqgj^oos — • Phwoons — • Kantees — Muniporeans — Kachais — > Jyaleai

— Cossyas — Garrows — Tipperas — Lalongs — Nagas — Joomeas —
Chakmas — Rajbungsies — Arings — Kookies — Kumaons — Mroongs — >
Kubos— • Gorkas — Kirauts — Bijnees — Asamese — Meekirs — Abors —
Meerees — Bor- Abors — Ahoms — Kolitas — Mishmees — Kantees — Ber-
Kantees — Singi^oos — • Kunungs — Muttucks — Lapcbas — • Dote""*
Akas •— Kupa-chowas — Booteas — Tangkools — • Kous — Anals •— Poo*
nuns — Mueyols — Munsangs — Murings — Luhoppas — Rumbos •— J<^o)ef

— Joropoles — Gominchis — Oojongs — Scrimenantls — Ulua — Calangs —
Jellaboos— Segamets — Kemoungs — Udais — Sakkyes — Utans— Joc-
coons — Semangs — Oodees — Sakais — Reyots — Simongs — Reegas —
Pasees — Mizongs — Bibors — Barkans — Uniyas — Marchas — Jowaries
— • Suryabans — Koiboos — Longphoos »— Champungs — Kapwis •-*
Korengs.

To complete the foregoing notes on Burmah, and to show the
extent and character of the missionary field, in and adjacent to
this empire, the following sketch is submitted. With some ex-
ceptions, these tribes have been hitherto unknown ; neither
geographers nor missionaries having so much as given their
names. My extended journeys brought me into contact either
with the people themselves, or with persons who knew them, be-
ing neighbors ; and constant inquiry has produced the follow-
ing catalogue, which surprised the best informed persons in
India, to whom it was submitted. That a document, compiled,
to a considerable extent, from natives unacquainted with geogra-
phy, and unaccustomed to minute investigations, should be im-
perfect, is unavoidable. My object is to show the extent of the
field and the necessity of more vigorous exertions ; and this no
mistake in detail can effect. My memorandums would furnish a
much greater amount of information respecting the manners of
several of these tribes ; but the present purpose does not require
further details.

198 MUnONAAT TIEUK

1. BuRifAH PROFBR coDtaiiiB about 3,000,000 of inhabitants II
whom the language is yemacular. Information as to these is n
amply tumished in this work and missionary periodicals, thit
nothing need here be said. For these, there are, at Ava, Mesan
Kincaid and Simons, and at Rangoon, Messrs. Webb and How-
ard. Stations might be formed at Sagamg, Umerapoora, BaoMM^
M ogoung, Prome, Bassein, and other important places. At ktflt
ten missionaries are now needed for Burmah proper.

2. The Peguans, called by Burmans TaUnns^ or Tcdings, and
by themselves Moons, amount to more than 70,000 souls. Their
language has been yeiy much superseded by the Burman ; the
men speaking it in all their business, and most of such as lean
to read, doing so in Burman. It will pot be proper to expend
missionary time and money in preserving it from extinction ; bat,
as many of the females speak only Peguan, and all can under-
stand it better than Burman, it vnll be necessary to preach the
gospel in their language, and perhaps print a few books. At least
one missionary, therefore, is wanted to sustain and succeed Mr
Haswell, who now occupies this department, and is located at
Amherst

3. The Tenasserim provinces (as the British possessions
south of Rangoon are called) contain about 100,000 souls. For
the Burman part of these, the laborers are Messrs. Judson, Os-
good, Hancock, and Bennett Mr. J. is wholly engrossed with
translations and ti'acts, and in the pastorship of the native church;
Messrs. O. and H. are printers ; and Mr. B. has full employ in
the government school. There is, therefore, not a single effec-
tive out-door missionary to this whole people, nor one on the
ground preparing to become so ! Maulmain, Tavoy, and Mergui
should each immediately have a missionary devoted to public
seiTices.

4. In Arracan, containing 300,000, there is only Mr. Cora-
stock, stationed at Kyouk Phyoo. The population is twice that
of the Sandwich Islands. Ramree and Sandoway ought at once
to be occupied. These stations should at least have two mis-
sionaries each. Rev* Mr. Ingalls is designated to one of them.

5. The Ka-rens inhabit all the mountain regions of the
southern and eastern portions of Burmah proper, and all parts
of the Tenasserim provinces, extending into the western por-
tions of Siam, and thence northward among the Shyans. It is
impossible to form a satisfactory estimate of their numbers. In
the province of Tavoy, a British census makes the number 2500.
Around Maulmain and Rangoon, there are perhaps 20,000 more.

MISSIONARY FIELD. l93

In Siam and Lao there are probably 10,000 ; making in all about
83,000.

There are known to be at least two different tribes, speaking
diverse dialects, yiz. the Sgaus^ or Chegaws and the Pos, or Pgioos,
The former reside chiefly in the Tenasserim provinces, and ar©
called by the Burmans Myd-ho, Their language has been re-
duced to writing, in the Burman character, by Mr. Wade. Among
this tribe have occurred those triumphs of Christianity which
have been so remarkable, and with which all the friends of mis-
sions are acquainted. The Po tribe (called by the Burmans
Myet-hfen) reside in Pegu, and have adopted many of the words
and habits of the Talains. With this tribe Miss Macomber
has commenced labors.

Missionaries knew nothing more of these people, than that
there were such, until the visit of the sorcerer in April, 1828.
The heart of Boardman was immediately touched with sym-
pathy, and his judgment convinced that Providence pointed
them out as entitled to his future labors. An early visit to their
jungle confirmed him in this decision; and thenceforth his
life was spent in their cause. On his second tour, he was called
from his labor, amid those touching scenes described in his
memoir; having seen nearly seventy persons added to the
church. He died February 11, 1831. Mr. and Mrs. Mason
had joined the mission in the preceding January ; and Mr. and
Mrs. Wade, returning from America with Miss Gardner, were
added in 1835.

The Tavoy station has hitherto been made almost wholly sub-
servient to the interests of this people. God has opened among
them an effectual door of entrance, and granted them the ser-
\'ices of as devoted missionaries as have ever blessed a people.
In July, 1836, they had in charge five Karen churches, embracing
nearly three hundred and fifty members, more than twenty na-
tive assistants, about two hundred inquirers connected with the
several congregations, and fifteen schools. An account of the
Tavoy and Karen churches, as well as of those in the vicinity
of Maulmain, is given in the first volume. Mr. Abbott is now
successfully laboring among the latter, in connection with Mr.
Vinton.

There are three churches, not far from each other, about forty
miles north of Rangoon ; viz. Mawhee, Yea-tho, or Ray-tho, and
Poung-nen, or Ponan. These have been founded wholly by na-
tive assistants, and have for several years walked steadfastly in

VOL. II. 17

194 MISSIONARY FIELD.

the trutli. They have endured the spoiling of their goods, and
cruel tortures ; and live amid continual threats of violence from
the Burman officers ; but not one, among several hundreds, has
drawn back through fear, though a few have relapsed into sin,
as might be expected.

. We have been, perhaps, too much disposed to esteem the im-
portance of a mission in proportion to the amount of populatioa
We ought rather to regard the indications of Providence. In
this aspect, so far as I know, no other mission of modem times
holds out such encouragements.

The several sections of Karens have each some peculiaritiefl^
but such general similarity, that they may be described together.
The degree of attention now drawn to this interesting race of
people, requires that I should add a few particulars in addition
to the religious statistics given in Part L

Their houses are like the Burmans', only much higher from
the ground ; and as there is little distinction of rich or poor, the
model, dimensions, and materials, differ but slightly. They cost
only a few days' labor, and are admirably suited to the climate.
One of the rooms has a hearth for cooking, made by laying earth
in a shallow box. Chimneys are unknown ; but the high roof
and open floor prevent all inconvenience on account of smoke.
Each has a veranda, or porch, raised to the same height as the
floor of the house, where much of the laborious work is done.
The loom, agricultural implements, &c., as well as the fowls and
pigs, find a place under the house.

They cultivate the ground with more care and success than
Burmans, and furnish no small part of the rice consumed in the
country. Their instruments of tillage are, however, particularly
rude. Having no plough, they ai*e unable to prepare the soil for
a second crop on account of its baking hard. Their custom is,
therefore, to clear and burn over a new spot every year ; which,
being soft and light, and stimulated by the ashes left upon it, yields
largely. Hence, in part, arises their habit of roving from place
to place. They raise hogs and poultry in abundance, so that
with honey, (obtained plentifully from wild bees,) fish, esculents,
and indigenous ft-uits, they have no want of the necessaries of
life. Many of them are expert with the bow and arrow, and
shoot guianas, monkeys, squirrels, and other game, common in
their forests. They seem to exempt nothing from their catalogue
of meats. Animals which have died of themselves, or game
killed with poisoned arrows, are not the less acceptable. When

MISSIONARY FIELD. 195

1 have expressed disgust at the swollen and revolting condition
of such meat, they seemed to wonder what could be the nature
of my objections.

Theur dress forms a more complete covering to the body than
that of the Burmans, but is neither so graceful nor of so rich
materials. The universal robe, for both sexes, is a strong cotton

shirt, made loose, without sleeves, and de-
scending a little below the knees. Women
wear beneath this a petticoat, descending
to the ankles; but young girls and old
women dispense with this last garment
The women are distinguishable chiefly by
their turban, which is made of a long, nar-
row, figured scar^ with the fringed ends
thrown back, and falling gracefully on the
shoulders. The costume will be better
learned fi-om the accompanying pictive of
Naw Moo Klur, whose letter to me is given
KaienGiri.' ou p. 45 of Vol. L Her standing up to be

drawn afforded great amusement to her
school-fellows, who had never seen such an attempt before.

They are exceedingly fond of ornaments, and wear a great
variety on the neck, arms, and ankles. Some of these neck-
laces are made of the hard, dry wing of a magnificent beetle,
found in their forests. A young lady, of special pretensions, will
sometimes wear ten or fifteen necklaces of various kinds, oflen
suspending a little bell to the longest, so that she has "music
wherever she goes." They never wear silk, and seldom any
foreign fabric, except book muslin, which some of the men wear
for turbans, in the same manner as the Burmans. Their ears
are not only bored, but the aperture so stretched as to be-
come, in many cases, capable of containing a cylinder, the size
of a dollar. When women have obtained an age when such
ornaments cease to be valued, this great empty wrinkled aper-
ture has a disagreeable aspect

Their domestic manners are less exceptionable than those of
most heathen. Truth, integrity, and hospitality, are universal.
For a Karen to lie or cheat, is scarcely known. Females are in
no respect degraded. They are neither secluded, nor kept at an
unseemly distance, nor required to perform labor beyond their
strength, nor treated with severity. Polygamy, though allowed
by the government under which they live, is accounted dis-

196 mSSIONA&T FIKUK

honorable, and seldom occurs. Their distinguishing vice ii
intemperance. Unrestrained by religious prohibitions, men,
women, and children use strong drink, and the miserable
oonsequences are seen in every village. The Christians are
of course emancipated from this baleful practice.

In musical taste and skill, they excel all the other Orientab
with which I became acquainted ; though their mstruments are
few and rude. Young and old practise vocal music on all
occasions ; and the psalmody of the disciples is truly delightibL
fiVery word in the language ending with a vowel, renders their
versification peculiarly soft

Their manufactures, though few, comprehend all the articles
in use among themselves. Without the advantage of a regular
loom, they make excellent cotton &brics, often with beautiful
figures. One end of the warp is fastened to a post of the house
or a tree, and the other wrapped round the waist A neat buttle
holds the woof, but the figures are interwoven with the fingers.

None of the tributaries to Burmah have been so oppressed as
this inoffensive people. Their regular taxes amount to twelve
or fifteen rupees annually, for each family, beside which their
goods are taken, without restraint, at any time ; and where pub-
lic labor is to be done, they are called out by hundreds, without
compensation or provisions. Many die of fatigue and suffering
on these occasions. They are, however, allowed to have their
own head-men, who decide minor disputes, and may inflict
minor punishments.

As to religion, the Karens may be almost said to have none.
Individuals, of course, will have religious anxieties, and these
make prayer and offerings to the Nao-pu-ee, or Nats.* In ordi-
nary times, they make offerings to these of a little boiled rice
laid on a board near the house. In periods of distress, a hog is
offered. The mode of doing this is to chase him round, beating
him with clubs till nearly dead, and then despatching him by
thrusting a sharp stick down his throat Though so little is done
to propitiate the Nats, the fear of them is universal, and gives
rise to a multitude of such stories as infest our nurseries.

* The account of some individuals who worshipped a book, is fainiHar to
the readers of missionary magazines and the memoir of Boardman. These
were but a few families, and the rest of the Karens remained ignorant of such
a faith. The word Karen is accented on the last syllable.

MISSIONA&T FIELD. 197

Through fear of them, most Karens « are all Iheir lifetime sub-
ject to bondage."

Various traditions prevail among them which have a remark-
able similarity to Scripture facts. The following is a specimen :
"Our race began with a married pair, who lived in happy inno-
eence and abundance. Mo-kaw-le, or the devil, attempted to
aeduce them to partake of certain food which they had been com-
manded not to eat They both listened and argued for some
time, till the man, indignant and out of patience, would hear no
mare, and rising up, went away. The woman continued to listen.
Mokawle assured her that if she would take his advice, she should
know all things, and be endued with ability to fly in the air, or
penetrate into the depth of the earth. That she might prove the
truth of what he said, he begged her just to taste the least mor-
sel, and she would know for herself. She began to hesitate,
and said, < Shall we verily be able to fly ? ' Upon this, Mokawle
redoubled his protestations of ardent good will, and repeated the
most flattering assurances, till the woman ate. Mokawle then
praised and cajoled her, till she was induced to go and find her
husband. He yielded reluctantly, and after much coaxing.
They realised none of the promised advantages, but felt no dif-
ference in themselves till next day, when God came and cursed
them, saying, <You shall become old; you shall be sick; you
shall die.'"

The only religious teachers are a sort of prophets called Boo-
khoos, who predict events, and are greatly venerated by the
people. They are always bards, singing with uncommon skill,
sometimes extemporaneously, verses of their own composition.
The uniform burden of the prophecies is the coming of a de-
liverer, who is to gather their scattered tribes, and restore them to
'security and independence.

Besides these is a set of wizards, called Wees ; who are fer
less respectable, but more numerous, and more dreaded. Boo-
khoos firequently become Wees; but there are many Wees
who are never Bookhoos. They pretend to cure diseases, to
know men's thoughts, and to converse with the spirits. Their
performances are fraught with awe and terror to a superstitious
p»eople. They begin with solemn and mysterious movements;
presently their eyes roll wildly ; then their body trembles ; and
at length every muscle is agitated ; while with frantic looks and
foaming mouth, they utter oracles, or speak to a man's spirit and

declare its responses.

■I "7 «

196 MISSIONART FIELD.

Let US now turn to the rest of this great field, in no part of
which, except at Asam, is there a single missionary of aijf
persuasion !

6. The Shtan^, ^ums, or Laos. Geographers and historiaii
know little of this numerous people ; not even the number ui
location of their various tribes. The accounts of La Bissachen^
Jarrie, Westhoff, Kempfer, and Marini, are rendered wortidM
by the contradictoriness of their statements, the eonfusMB
of their dissimilar orthography, and the changes which ham
€>ccurred since their day.

No modem traveller has explored the country. Dr. Richarl*
son alone has seen any considerable part of it He commiiDi-
cated many &cts respecting the Shyans of the region of Zemmai;
but his whole account has been puUished in the Asiatic Jourad,
to which, if the reader please, he may refer. I spent many houn
in examining intelligent officers and traders, whom I met at
different places, and gathered some fkcta from the Shyan princei^
to whom Colonel Bumey introduced me at Ava ; but as memo-
randums became voluminous, they became also contradictory;
80 that, instead of giving an entire chapter on this people, as 1
had intended, I shall venture only a few paragraphs.

The Shyan or Lao country is bounded by Asam on the
north, China on the east, Siam and Camboja on the south, and
Burmah on the west. The entire length of the country is about
nine hundred miles, and the greatest breadth about four hundred.
The population is probably not much short of three millions.
Shyan is a Burman name, and Low, or Lao, the Chinese, which
is adopted by the Portuguese. They call themselves Toy, (pro-
nounced Tie,) and their language often bears that name in books.
They seem to be the parent stock of both Asamese and Siamese.
Indeed the name shows identity. Bengalees always put a
vowel before every word, and make m and n convertible ; so that
Shyan becomes with them A-syam, which the English further
altered to Asam. Syam, or Siam, is but another form of the same
word.

The Shyans are divided into many tribes, and the language
has a corresponding number of dialects. They have no alpha-
betical characters of their own ; but a few individuals write iieir
language in the Bengalee or Burman letters. The Roman letters
have been wisely adopted by the missionaries at Sudiya. Read-
ers will thus be more easily raised up, and vast expense saved to
the mission. If the same plan be pursued in giving letters to the

MISSIOSrAET FIXLI*.

mnnercNis tribes now to be mentioiied, a happy uniformity in
firoper namesi 4cg. will penrade all this region, and the diduaioa
of the Word faaatened by many years.

It IB impossible to enumerate the difierent tribes. Their chief
deaigDations seem to be from the regions they iuliabiL

The Gbmc9 or Koike Shfans occupy a countr\- sometimes called
Nora, on the head waters of the Kyendween. The northern
LaoB inhabit the sources of the 3Ieinam or Siam River. Tlieir
principal city is Kaintoun. The Mrdap or Myehp Sh^ns
occupy the region between the upper part of the Irrawaddy and
China, and are sometimes called Shyan Waws. Their chief
towns are Momeit, Thennee, and Monay : from each of which
are annual caravans to Ava. The Tarouk or Chinese Shfans re-
side chiefly in China. They are sometimes called Koshyan-piffj
or the ''nine-tribe Shyans." The Yunshyans appear to be the
Jangomas of the Modem Universal Histor}'. Perlia|)s they are
the same as the Tarouk Sh^'ans. Tlie Zemmai Shyans occupy
the re^n round the city of that name, and are less connected
vnth Burmah than with Siam. Their Chobwaw is in reality
monarch, and holds a very dubious fealty to his more powerful
neighbor. The city of Zemmai is on the head waters of the
Meinam, fifteen days from Bankok by boat. Dr. Richardson
speaks highly of the mildness, intelligence, and purity of the
people, and of the preeminent salubrity of the climate. The
htnoa Shyans are numerously scattered over the southern portion
of the Lao country, and stand high for intelligence and pros]>er-
ity. One of the Woongyees at A\'a assured me there wore no
Lowa Shyans, but that the people so called are only Lo>\'as,
scattered among Shyans ; but I am led to believe he was mistaken.
I saw at Maulmain some very intelhgent traders who called
themselves Lowa Shyans, and gave me a list of twelve or fif-
teen of their principal towns. The Lenzens, or Southern Shy-
ans, border on Siam and Camboja, and seem to be the people
called by old writers Langchan or Vinchang, They were con-
quered, in 1839, by the Siamese, and their king carried in chains
to Bankok. Their chief town is Sandapuri.

The Shyans are, in some respects, a more interesting people,
and more civilized than the Bunnans. Such of their inamifoc-
tiures as I saw were greatly superior, and the common dress is much
more artificial and convenient. They wear round jackets, short
full trousers, and broad-brimmed hats ; dressing, in fact, much
like the Chinese. Though occasionally reduced and ovcrnm by
their neighbors, they have as yet maintained a virtual indepen-

200 msSIOKART PIEZiD.

dence, and have to a great degree avoided those internal wan
which have reduced the North American Indians to such Yfetk-
ness and diminution. Some of the tribes adhere to the aneieitf
demon worship, but most of them have embraced Boodhisok
Eight or ten missionaries might at once be settled advantageoufllf
in large cities, and would form an important advance upoi
China. One should be stationed at Ava, or Umerapoora, when
he would have access to very large numbers, and where his oper
ations would probably create no displeasure on the part of tbe
government

7. The TouNG-THOos are sometimes called Tampees. A few
reside in scattered villages, on the Salwen River, near Maulmain;
but most of them to the northward. They amount probably to
twenty thousand. The northern portions are said to have a writ-
ten language, and books in the Burman character. The southern
portion seem wholly ignorant of letters, except a few, who
read and write Burman. Their name, which signifies ^ southern
people," was probably given them about Ava. The name they
themselves give their tribe is Pa/io, or Pwo, Thetong, or
Tethong, seems to have been their ancient metropolis. They
resemble Karens in migratory habits, dress, habitations, and
customs ; but hold themselves to ^ be of a higher grade. They
are given to trade, and travel extensively among the villages in
the wilderness, selling ornaments and other articles of luxury.
The upper portions of the tribe cultivate tea, cotton, and indigo.
They raise also considerable floss silk, feeding the worm on the
plant called Puja.

8. The TswAHs reside north-east of Maulmain, and are
considerably numerous. They are somewhat more civilized
than Karens, and manufacture many articles requiring consid-
erable skill.

9. The Kahs inhabit the Siamese frontier, and are addicted to
wandering, like the Karens. They were formerly numerous in
Tavoy province, but the bulk of them went over to Siam, when the
English took the country. They are still numerous. Their lan-
guage is unwritten. Partial vocabularies of the languages of
the Karens, Lowas, and Kahs, are given in the Asiatic Re-
searches, on the authority of Dr. Buchanan Hamilton. It is not im-
probable that this is the tribe called Lowas, or possibly the people
called Lowa-kah, found between Thennee and the Camboja River.

10. The Wahs are another wandering tribe, partly in the
province of Mergui, but chiefly in SianL They amount to about
twelve thousand.

miiiosAmT nuLD.

IJL The Sx-LOZDM, or ZaUnrngM^ inhabit islands of the Mer^^i
anshipelago^ chiefly Dong, Suke, and Lampee. On each island is
a distinct tribe, with a distinct dialect ; but the language is essen-
tialty the same, and resembles the Malay more tlian any other.
Few races of men are more degraded than these. Their num-
bera cannot be ascertained, as they fly into the mountains when
■trangera visit their shores. Their ibod is chiefly fish and shell-
fish. In seeking this, they put up their wretched huts wherever
they find a temporary supply, and spend much of their time in
canoes, among the snudl uninhabited islands contiguous. A
missionary or two for these tribes might reside at Mergui, and
itinerate among them in the dry season. Their unsettled resi-
dences would preclude his having access to them at any one
place, till converts were made and some village established.

12. The Karen-nes, or *^Rtd Karens^ occupy the region di-
rectly east of Maul main. They are more fair than Burmans,
and their eyes generally light colored ; which is very rare in the
East They are not a tribe of Karens, as the name implies, but
seem to be descended from the Shyans. The latter universally
wear trousers of Hut cotton : these wear the same garment, but
always of a rtd color; hence the name, probably given by
some one who supposed them to be Karens. Their language
contains a large mixture of Peguan words. They are remark-
able for living in houses connected together, like a long shed.
Sometimes a hundred live under one roof. They are without
large cities, but have several villages of considerable size, and
practise various mechanic arts with respectable success.

They are represented to be zealous Boodhists, and exceedingly
savage. This character, however, is probably given them princi-
pally from their being addicted to man-stealing. Their practice
is to seize defenceless Siamese, and sell them to the Burmans ;
and defenceless Burmans, and sell them to the Siamese. This
trade is not now so earnestly pursued as formerly.

13. The La WAS are in the extreme south-east, bordering on
China and Siam. Whether they have a separate country is un-
certain. There are several large tribes of these ; some tributary
to Burmah, and some to Siam. Their entire number probably
exceeds that of the Karens. It is probable they live among the
Shyans as the Karens do among the Burmans ; but their laws,
religion, and customs are wholly different They are not
Boodhists, but worship JStats, and offer bloody sacrifices. They
not only use no idols, but reject them with great abhorrence, and
l»eak them. They seem to have no large cities. Their Ian-

902 mSSIONART FIELD.

guage seems to be corrupt Burman. They are obviously disda-
guished from the Shyans, as an inferior and less civilized race.

14 The Ec-CA-BAT Ku-lahs are occasionally called Myaia9i f
from Myadoo, their chief city. They are found a little north rf P
Moke-so-bo, or Mon-cha-boo, as Symes calls it Some of them l
reside in the British territory, and are called Cajchars. They an
a very short race, nearly as black as Hindoos. Among them m
a number of Peguan-Portuguese Christians, brought there, and
colonized, in a former reign ; most of whom are distinguished
by the light color of their eyes. The tribe is famous for sift
manufactures. The dialect is peculiar, though essentially Bin^
man. Burman books would answer for them ; but few or none
can read.

15. The Que, or Quays, Some of this people reside twelve
or eighteen miles east of Umerapoora, and two clans on the west
side of the Irrawaddy, towards the Kyendween. They have
been a warlike, intelligent people, and very conspicuous m
Burman history, though now but a few thousands. Their lan-
guage is essentially Burman, but mixed with Peguan and Sia-
mese. The Scriptures, as already printed, might probably sufSce,
though it would bo necessary that a missionary should acquire
their colloquial dialect. The chief Woongyee at Ava assured
me that they have books in their own language, written as he
thought, in a character resembling Chinese.

16. The Bongs are a considerable race north of Ava. Their
language and customs are peculiar ; but neither their boundaries
nor numbers are ascertained. Nor could I ascertain whether
these are the remnants of the ancient kingdom of Bong, or
whether they are the same with a tribe called Phwoon. It is
indeed doubtful whether the kingdom of Bong, described by
Pemberton and others, ever existed as an independent nation.

17. The D'uAN-oos are found from one hundred to five hun-
dred miles east of Ava. They have villages, but no distinct ter-
ritory. Though not numerous, they are a thrifty, industrious
people, and raise much of the tea which is brought to Ava.
Their language is said to resemble the Tavoy dialect

18. The Ka-doos are scattered over the province of Mogoung,
between the Irrawaddy and Kyendween Rivers ; chiefly between
24° and 26° of north latitude. They have their own villages
and chiefs, and a distinct though unwritten language, but no
separate territory. They are a quiet, industrious race. Their
chief town is Penjala-Namo.

19. The Yaws are on the lower waters of the Kyendween, not

MISSXONA&T FIELD. 908

fir iSnozn Ava. The district is sometimes called Yo^ or Jo, The
l a n g uag e is essentially Burman, but spoken with a dialect intel-
ligible only to themselves. Unlike the Burmans, they sufier
tbeir teeth to remain white, and the hair to flow loose. Most of
the people are entirely without religion, like the Karens ; the
test are Boodhists. They are an agricultural and pastoral peo-
pfey enjoying a country of extreme salubrity and fruitfulness.
They manuftcture sugar, and export it to other parts of the em-
pire ; and often resort to Ava for the purposes of trade.

20l £N-eTEE. This tribe occupies the mountains toward Mun-
ipore, have a language of their own, unwritten, and are some-
what numerous.

2L The Ktens* are sometimes called Boo-as^ and sometimes
Mi-gaSf and by the Burmans Chins, They occupy part of the
Aiiacan and Munipore frontier, chiefly the mountains of the
district of Kubo, and amount to about fiily thousand, divided
into various tribes, as the Changsd, the Kongjtij the Chedoo, tlie
Kuporeey &c. Some of the tribes are tributary to Bunnah, others
to the East India Company, and some are completely indepen-
dent Some tribes wear no other clothing than a thiu board, fas-
tened in front by a string round the hips. One tribe tattoo
their women's &ces in a horrible manner ; of whom I have seen
a number. They generally call themselves Koloun, Hamilton
regards them as one of the original tribes of Farther India, and
that, wider various names, such as Karens, Kookies, Cossyahs,
&C., and in various stages of civilization, they are spread, more
or less, over this whole peninsula. Within the limits of Arra-
can are about fifteen thousand, who might be reached through
Akyab and Kyouk Phyoo. A considerable village of these peo-
ple stands at the entrance of the Oo-tha-long Nullah, ten days
by water firom Akyab. Many of them live in the intermediate
space. The hill tribes are fierce and dreaded by all their neigh-
bors ; but the lowlanders cultivate the earth peacefully, and have
settled habitations. Those under Burman authority pay their
tribute chiefly in ivory, wax, coarse cottons, ginger, and tur-
meric They are greatly addicted to arrack extracted from rice.
I have seen cloths and other articles made by them, which dis-
play excellent skill and taste. Their language is peculiar and un-
written, and the dialects of the difiereut tribes vary considerably.

Of religion they know almost nothing, having scarcely any
idea of a Supreme Being, and few superstitions of any kind.
Some oflTer bloody sacrifices before a certain bush, and worship

, , .1 - *

* Pronounced in one syllable.

904 mSBIONAKT FIXUK

meteoric stones, talismans, and a god whom they call A-po-roriku
The dead are burned, the bones, &c. of poor persons remaining
aromid the pyre being buried on the spot, while those of the
rich are carried to the great Kyoung-na-tine mountain, in the
Arracan range. The father is expected to marry the widow of
his son, and the son may marry any of his father's widows, ex-
cept his own mother. Adultery is always punished with death.

22. The Pa-loungs, or Polongs, a numerous and intelligen!
race, reside between Bamoo and the Chinese frontier, having
separate towns and villages among the Shyans, but with little,
if any, territory exclusively their own. Some of their yillagee
are interspersed among the Kah-kyens, and some are found
almost as far south as Ava. They are a highland race, and find
security in their mountains, both from Burmah and China, pay-
ing no tribute to either. They cultivate tea extensively, and
export it, both dry and pickled. The men dress in Chinese
fiishion: women wear trousers, and a gown reaching to the
knees, with sleeves. Their own language is unwritten, but
many of the males can read Shyan. The language itself seems
to be Shyan largely intermingled with Chinese, and pronounced
so like Chinese, that the true Shyans do not understand it

23. The Kah-kyens, a very large and numerous tribe, of
Singphoo origin, extend from the Irrawaddy to China, and
from Bamoo to Thibet. It is not certain whether they have a
distinct territory. Many of them reside in the province of
Bamoo, particularly in and around Mogoung, and are distin-
guished by tattooing the space between their eyes. The Sing-
phoos are sometimes called Kahkyens, but always resent it
These and the Lawas seem to be included by Du Halde, in bis
map, under the term Lo-los. Their language resembles the Bur-
man ; but as a people they are remarkably different from Chinese
or Burmans. They are much less civilized than the tribes around
them.

24. The SiNG-PHOos, or Sinkpkoos, called by Burmans Them-
baw, occupy both sides of the higher region of the Irrawaddy,
and spread from the Pat-koi hills to China. Duffer Gdm, their
principal chief, assured me that they amount to at least 300,000
souls. They are divided into fifteen or twenty tribes, the princi-
pal of which are the Meerip, Beesa^ Lutong, Lapay, and Tesam,
Some tribes are under English authority, but more under Bur-
man, and several are independent The Burman governor re-
sides at Toowah ; but they have no large city. They trade with
the Shyans at Mogoung, and the Burmans down the Kyend-
ween, but chiefly with China. Their exports are gems, amber,

HIBBIOSrAmT FIKLD. 905

loUe BO ipc mi Me, himII dabs, mod salL Tliey worship Natu, and
teriflih a great hatred to Boodhism ; but considerable nuinbeni
ire anmiallj pfoaelTted by Brahmins from Bengal, who cod-
Maiitly make atron; efliirtB for this purpose, and unless Cliristians
Mt with vigor and piomptitude, annually increasing numbers
win go ofor to that dreadful s}*8tem. Some of tliese trilies are
unong the fineal races irf'men in all this part of the world. The
langugo is minriileiL

SSL Tbe Phwooss, or Pfaoont, occupy parts of the region
louiid Mogoong: There are two tribes of this name, distin-
gtoabed faj the tenna great and small ; whose dialects differ from
each other eonaderaUy, and from adjacent languages totally.
lliey are a qoiet, indostrious, agricultural people. Tliey build
their houses, not like the Burmans and Shyans, but like the
people of the Kuho valley. They have no \\Titten cluuactcr.
They say their original country was to the nortli-east.

96L KsAif-TEES, qwUed variously KangUes^ Khaniis^ Affm/rfit,
and KaniffMf are found on the west bank of tbe Irrawadtl}', and
are a numerous race. A small part of them ouly is subject to
Bumnah. Their language bean considerable affinity to the
Burman, and is called

Adjacent to Burmah, but not tributary to it, are —

1. The MuN-i-FOREANS. Their country has been so variously
designated as to make great confusion in maps. By tbe Bur-
mans, their region is called KaOiay ; by the Asamese, MMey ;
by the Kacharese, Moglie ; and by tlie Shyans, Cassay. Some
authors give them one of these names, and some auotber ; and
some give them as separate countries. Thoy hold a territory of
about seven thousand square miles ; but the population, though
known to be numerous, is not ascertained. It is at least seventy
thousand. The great valley of Mun-i-pore is twciity-fivo bun*
dred feet above the level of the sea, and eminent]}' salubrious.

2. The Ka-chars,* or Caehars, are bounded north by Asam,
east by Munipore, south by Tippers, or Tripura, and west by
Sylhet and Jynteah. Their language is peculiar. They came
under British government in 1832, and are rapidly improving in
their civil condition. Surrounded, on three sides, by high mountain
ranges, the rains, during the south-west monsoon, are very vio-
lent ; and the inhabitants are subject to ague, diarrbeea, dysen-

* Ch as in church,
VOL. II. 18

206 MISSIONARY FIELD.

tery, aud fevers. The population is rated, by some authors^ it
^\e hundred thousand ; and by others dififerent numbers, dowi
to eight thousand. The principal place is Silchar,* oii the soutli
side of the Barak River.

3. Jtn-teah, or Gentm, lies between Kachar on the east, Asam
on the north, and the Soormah River on the south, contaimog
a population of a hundred and fifty thousand, of whom the grealnr
part are Mussulmans, and low caste Hindus of Bengal origin.
Most of this territory is now annexed to the British dominiom.

4 Cos-ST-As, or Khasias, who denominate themselyes Khyeei^
occupy the mountains of Asam, Cachar, Sylhet, and the Garrowa
The region is about seventy miles long, and fifty miles wide,
containing three thousand five hundred square miles. They are
a numerous race, divided into clans, such as the Kyrin, the
Churra, the Ramryee, the Nuspimg^ the MvrioWj &c., and are
distributed in considerable numbers among each of the tribes
named above. The language in all is essentially the same.
They retain some of the forms of independence, but are under
t^ supervision of a British *^ agent for Cossya afiiairs." Some
attempts have been made by the Serampore missionaries to give
them a written language in the Bengalee character ; but nothing
of consequence has yet been done. Their religion is impure
Brahminism, which has not long been introduced.

5. The Gar-rows, or Garos, occupy the mountainous region
of the same name, bounded north and west by the valley of tbe
Burampooter, south by Sylhet, and east by Jynteah. They were
formerly numerous, but have been reduced by their warlike
habits. The skulls of enemies are highly valued, and kept as
trophies. Their territory is about a hundred and thirty miles
long, by thirty or forty broad. They raise large quantities of
cotton, and carry on a considerable trade with the English who
now inhabit the country. Their houses are very comfortable,
built on piles, like the Burmans'. Women do much servile work,
but have a voice in all public business, and possess their full
share of influence. The language is stated to be simple, and
easy of acquisition, but is not reduced to writing. They have a
religion of their own, but no priesthood. They worship iSofi
Jung, believe in transmigration, and make ofierings, but have do
temples. Brahminical doctrines are daily spreading amongst
them, especially the more southern tribes. Polygamy is not
practised. Their temper is said to be mild and gay ; but they are

* Ch as in church.

mSSIONA&T FIELD. 207

much addicted to drunkenness. A mission to this people is
Momestly called for by Captain Jenkins, and some other of our
friends residing adjacent to them.' If a brother were to engage
moL their behalf he might reside for a year or two at Gowhatee,
where every fiicihty would be at hand in gaining the language.
This field, however, is much less encouraging in its present
aspect than many others mentioned in this paper.

6L The Tip-PE-RAS, or Tripuuras, Their country is called by
Bengalese Turoj or TVuro, lying on the east bank of the Buram-
pooter, between 24° and 27° north latitude. On the north, it
has Sylhet; on the south, Chittagong. It comprehends seven
tiiousand square miles, and now forms part of Bengal. In this
oountry are made the well-known cotton goods called Bafias,
exported to every part of the world. They are a comparatively
cii^ized people, amounting to eight hundred thousand souls, a
majority of whom profess Hinduism ; the rest are Mussulmans
Th^y build their houses like the Burmans. Some parts of the
oountry are covered with jungle, and abound with elephants;
but the rest is fertile, and well cultivated, and the people are not
only attentive to agriculture, but to manufactures of various
kinds, and to commerce. They are divided into three tribes,
viz. Tipperas, properly so called, on the banks of the Gromuty ;
AUnagar^ on the River Phani, or Fenny ; and the Reangon, on
the River Monu. All speak the same language, which is peculiar
to themselves.

7. The La-longs inhabit the low hills of the Jynteah country,
especially a tract now annexed to the district of Noagong, and
are estimated at over twenty thousand souls. They resemble the
Meekeers in character, have no written language, scarcely any
idea of a Supreme Being, and hardly the forms of any religion.
Their region is very unhealthy to foreigners, six months in a
year ; but the missionary could then reside at the adjacent and
▼ery healthy city of Noagong, where much of his work for them
could be continued.

8. The Naq-as are a very numerous people on the borders of
Cacbar, Munipore, and Asam. Their country belongs partly to
one, and partly to the other of these states. They are called Nagas
(literally " naked people") from their almost total want of dress.
Tliere are many clans or tribes of them, differing greatly in their
measure of civilization. The better sort dwell in compact villages
of well-built houses on high hills, and are reported to be a very
handsome and athletic race ; active, both in agriculture and mer-
chandise. The religion of the more intelligent tribes is a rude

208 MISSIONARY FIELD.

sort of demonology ; but they have no idea of a Supreme Being
or the nature of the sou]. Some of these tribes are in the lowest
state of humanity. The Rev. Mr. Rae, of the Serampore mis-
sion, has made extensive journeys among this people and the
Meekeers, and published ample and interesting details.

9. The Joo-if£-AS reside chiefly in Chittagong, on a range
of hilly country, on the head waters of the Kulladine, between
the mountains and the plains. There are some tribes of them
in Tippera, and some in Arracan. They cultivate hill rice and
cotton. Their language is wholly unintelligible both to Mugs
and Bengalees, and is unwritten. Their religion is an impure
Boodhism; They remove their villages every year, and always
cultivate new grounds. They pay tribute to the government at
Chittagong, through a native Zemindar ; who lives in considera-
ble state at Bazileah, eastward of Chittagong, and calls himself
raja.

10. The Chak-ma tribe is allied to the Joomea, and practise the
same religion. They are wholly confined to the hilly interior of
Chittagong, and are supposed to amount to about seventeen thou-
sand. They are considerably civilized, and some can read Benga-
lee ; but generally write it in Burman character. A dialect of Ben-
galee is the common language, and their dress is quite that of Hin-
dus. These and the Joomeas are a hardy and industrious people,
and cut all the ship and furniture timber which is brought
dovm Chittagong River. They are remarked also for intrepidity
as hunters, and for general gentleness and probity of manners.

11. The Raj-bung-sies amount to full thirty thousand souls,
scattered in every direction over Chittagong, and occupying
some places almost exclusively, such as Run-ga-heer and Sunka
River. They are mostly Bengalee Boodhists, sprung from gov-
erning families of Arracanese, who being forced to abandon
their country during former intestinal commotions, settled in
Chittagong, and became naturalized. Their name signifies liter-
ally "children of princes." But though they hold themselves
superior to Mugs, they are a very poor people, and many of them
come down into the large town to be servants. Their language
is a cori*upt Bengalee. They retain the Boodhist faith, and have
a few priests and kyoungs, but no pagodas.

12. The A-RiNGS are a tribe wholly independent They oc-
cupy spurs of the Youmadou Mountains in the rear of the
Kyens, and ai*e known to amount to at least thirty thousand.
They reside within the limits of Arracan, but are not enumer-
ated in the census of that province. They bring into the plains

MI88IONART FISLD. 909

QOttoii, ivory, and a little cloth, to barter for salt and gnapee.
They are exceedingly addicted to intoxication. The liquor for
this purpose is made of fermented rice, distilled with a rude ap-
paratus of earthen ware. Their language is peculiar and un-
written. They are not Boodhists, but worship Nats ; paying,
however, little attention to religious forms, and only when
pressed by calamity.

IdL The Koo-Kixs, rar Kunghif^ called by the Burmans Lan-
gA, and by Bengalese lAngta^ are a very numerous people,
having at least ten thousand men capable of bearing arms.
They occupy the region of the Barak and Koomty Rivers, bor-
dered, though indistinctly, by Kachar and Tipiierah on the west,
Chittagong on the south-west, and Burmah on the south-east.
They are divided into at least ten tribes, bearing different names,
but generally live at peace with each other. The dialects of
these tribes are said to be so various as to be unintelligible to
each other. They have no caste, and eat all kinds of flesh.
Some of the tribes go nearly naked. In general, they neglect
agriculture, and depend on die game and fruits of the forest
By consequence, they all collect into villages, some of which are
very large, and which they remove every few years. They be-
lieve in fiiture rewards and punishments, and worship evil genii,
whom they desire to propitiate. Some are found also in Chitta-
gong. They are exceedingly savage and warlike: strangers
canqpt pass safely through their country, their heads being con-
sidered a great prize. No young man can marry without possess-
ing one of these trophies. Some houses have many of them.*

14. The KuM-A-ONs, or KumoonSy occupy an area of about
seven thousand square miles formerly subject to the Grorkhas,
extending firom Rohilcund to the peaks of the Himmalaya — a
rugged and cold district, with little level arable land. The people
are in a very rude state, laboring just enough to support nature.
Some of them live in stone houses. The religion is Hinduism,
and many of the people are brahmins. This country was ac-
quired by the British in 1815, and Almora, one of its towns, was
made a sanitarium for the Company's servants in bad health.
A good road extends from Rohilcund to Almora, through the
Bamoury pass ; and another from Hawellbaugh, a civil station
of the East India Company. This country is largely described
by Fullarton, Raper, and Dr. F. Buchanan.

15. The Mroonos, or Mroos, occupy the country between the

• See Annals of Oriental Literature, Part III. ; Philosoph. Journal, Vol. IV.

14*

210 MISSIONARY FIELD.

Kyens and the plains, from the Cosi to the Teesta, north of
Rungpore district, and formerly belonging to NepauL From thiB
region great quantities of timber are floated to Calcutta, chiefly
the Saul tree. A number of this tribe, supposed to amount to
Ave thousand, are found in Arracan, chiefly in the district of
Akyab ; and are as civilized as the people of the plains.

17. The KuBos are of Shyan descent, and occupy the TaUoy
of the Munipore River, one of the tributaries of the Kyendween.

18. The GoR-KAS occupy a large region north of Nepaul, but
a warmer and pleasanter country. It has many fine mountaio
streams, most of vehich combine in the Trisoolgunga. Gorkha,
the former Capital, (lat 27° 5(K, long. 84° 22^,) forty-one miles
west-north-west jG*om Catmandoo, contains about one thou-
sand houses, and Catmandoo, the present capital, twice that
number. They conquered Nepaul in 1768, and became a pow-
erful people ; but are now under British ride.

19. The KiR-AUTs, evidently of Tartar origin, occupy a space
between Nepaul and Bootan. They are now confined to the
mountains, but formerly governed portions of Dinagepore and
Rungpore. Their religion is a negligent Boodhism ; but since
their subjection to the Gorkas, many have become Brahminists.
They are not wholly illiterate, and write the language in the
NagFee character. Individuals of this tribe are scattered over
Bengal and Bahar, where they follow the life of gypsies, and
wander about, preaching and telling fortunes. These are called
Kichcuks,

20. The BiJ-NEES occupy a province east of Asam, and speak
tlie Bengalee language. They occupy both sides of the Buram-
pooter, part of them being subject to the British, and part inde-
pendent It is an extensive, and much of it a beautiful country.
The natives depend chiefly on agriculture, and have therefore
stationary villages, many of which are much neater than those
of Bengal. Some idea both of the agriculture and population of
the district may be derived from the fact that, in 1809, taxes
were collected, by the raja, from thirty-two thousand four hun-
dred ploughs. Bijnee, the capital, is situated twenty-five miles
east from Groalpara, (lat. 26° 29^ long. 89° 47',) and is strongly
fortified.

21. The A-SAM-ESE occupy most of the valleys and fertile por-
tions of the region called Jisam, while other tribes, in general
less civilized, occupy the hills and mountains, especially on the
frontier. Their territory became a part of Burmah in 1821-2,
but is now wholly under British control They are very numer-

211

ouBy estimated by waam andian at a million ; and aiv m &r cir-
itizedaato aeciire to a miaaoiiaiy the iomiediate prwpect oi
ii8Bfiiliiefl&

A miasioiiary to this people might very adruitBfeousiT be at
ODoe settled at Juriiadiy long the feat of the Amnese rajaa^
and regaided as the caiMtal of Upper Aaam. Anotlier is wanted
at Gowhatte^ the capital oi Lower Aaam, and the residence
of the Britiflh agent for this region — a station now held by Cap-
tain Jenkins^ a waim philanthropist, who has not only invited
mismoDaries to this region, and rendered them important ser-
vices^ but has given more than a thousand dollars toward the
operations -of the American Baptist mission at Siidiya. Noa-
gong, Gualpars, &c^ are now ripe for missionary labor.

22l The Mee-keees, or MOdrSf occupy a part of Asain, south
of the Burampooter, and amount to at least twenty thousand.
They are greatly addicted to drunkenness, but are simple, hon-
est, industrious, and inofiensive Some of late years have be-
come Brahminists. They are a people in every respect prepared
for missionary labor. The most inviting point for a station
is No-a-gong. The Serampore missionaries were very anxious
to establish a mission here, but relinquished the idea for want
of mean 8.

23. The A-Boas reside along the south side of tlie Ilimma-
laya Mountains, from long. 93P to long. 95^ A very numerous
and somewhat civilized race, divided into various tribes, such aa
the PadotM, Scdoos^ Mehoos, Chlmars, Mayings, &c. Their coun-
try is cold, and manners rude. They use, both in war and in the
chase, arrows poisoned with Bisa. The article is prepared from
a fibrous root, which they keep secret, and is sold in considerable
quantities to neighboring tribes. They regard no food iiii))uro,
but beef; and are addicted to strong drink. Thoy worHliij) a
deity called Ap-hown, They dress well. Some of thorn nnnually
visit Sudiya. No written character.

24. The Mee-rees, or J^^ria, adjoin the Al)ors, and lire wholly
independent They occupy a strip of level land extending along
the right bank of the Burampooter from Asam to tlio Diliong
River, which separates them from the Abort). They are few and
degraded, but somewhat industrious. They raise some opium,
and have a few manufactures. The head village is Mot-f^aoru
Their language is the same as that of the Al>onf. The mission-
aries for this tribe and the Duphlas would prolNihly nsHide at
Bishnath, (lat 26^ 4(y, long. (^3'' 12^,) a British station on the Bur-
ampooter, and head quarters of the Asam light infiint.T ; or at

813 mSSIONART FIXL0.

Tizpore, on the north bank of the same river, (lat 26** 37', long.
9SP 52^,) where also are British officers and sepoy& The eoun-
try between these stations is beautiful. On the west side of
the Barelli River, which passes through this space, is a settlement
of at least four hundred &milies of Meerees ; and on the east v
the densely peopled district of Noa-dwar.

25. The Bor-Abors; a powerful tribe occupying the loftier
ranges between Sudiya and the Bonash River, extending to
Thibet. The word Bor means great. The people call themselves
Padam, These and the two last-named tribes are essentially
one people, and speak the same language. They have no written
characters ; but the language is fluent, easy of pronunciation, and
readily acquired by a foreigner. Missionaries might at first re-
side with the Meerees, either at the station mentioned above, or
on the Burampooter, opposite to Sudiya, where are many Meerees;
and penetrate among the Abors and Borabors, as prudence might
dictate.

26. The A-hOms occupy the eastern parts of Asam, and
speak the language of Bengal. Three fourths of them are Brah-
minists. They are more numerous than some of the tribes which
have been named above.

27. The KoL-i-TAS, or Kulitas, are scattered through the Rung-
pore district, and part of Asam. They speak Bengalee, and have
adopted that religion. They are called by Hamilton a powerful,
independent, and civilized nation.

28. The MisH-MEES occupy the sources of the Lohit and
Dibong Rivers, to the north-east of Sudiya — a lofly and very cold
region. They are a very extensive race, possessing industrious
habits, and more gentleness than mountaineers in general
Missionaries would be quite safe among them. None are found
on the plains near Sudiya, but a constant succession of them
visit that city for purposes of trade.

They are distinguished for hospitality^ When a man kiDs a
bullock, he invites his friends to partake ; all the skulls are pre-
served in his house, as a proof of his hospitality, till he dies, when
they are piled on his grave as an honorable monument One
branch of the Mishmees are a good deal mixed among the Abors.

29. The Kan-tees, descended from the Bor Kantees, inhabit
a triangle near tlie sources of the Irrawaddy, bounded by the
rivers Lohit and Dibong, and the mountains of the Mishmees.
They are a very intelligent and numerous race, and have many
large towns, among which Mun-long and Man-sai are the princi-
pal. The language is Shyan. Rev. Messrs. Brown and Cutter

MISSIOKAmT T1XLD, SIS

are now laboring at Sudiya for this tribe and others, and thus
form the exception mentioned at the beginning of this article.
Sudiya stands on the right bank of the Ku-nil, or Kundil nullah^
ax miles aboTe its junction with the Lohit, and has ten thousand
inhabitants. It is the advance British post on the north-east
frontier, and has a military force and commissioner. The mis-
sionaries have reduced the language to writing, in the Roman
character, and printed various elementary books.

30. The Bor-Kantees reside between the eastern portion of
Aaam, and the valley of the Irrawaddy. Their capital is Man-
eiiee, twelve days fix)m Sudiya. A numerous and interesting
people. Language is nearly allied to the Shyan.^

31. Tlie SiNe-PHoos. Of this people there are large numbers
under British sway, in the neighborhood of Sudiya. They are
divided from the Burman Singphoos, on the south, by the Patkoi
Hills, and fit>m the Bor Kantees, on the east, by tfie Langtan
Mountains. On the west, they are bounded by a line extended
from Sudiya to the Patkoi range. They worship idols, and seem
to have a religion mixed up of doctrines fi^m their neighbors.
An intelligent and enterprising race. No written character.
The Singphoos are likely to be much better known, from the
fact that the tea-plant, which the British are so anxious to cultivate
in India, flourishes chiefly in their territory. A very inviting
missionary station is found at Ningru, a beautiful village on the
high bank of the Buri Dihing, three days south of Sudiya, and in
the midst of a tea country. Missionaries might, however, ad-
vantageously remain a year or two at Sudiya, where are many
Singphoos, and where advantages for acquiring the language
would be greater than in the jungle. The language is said to be
singularly difficult, and full of combinations of consonants, almost
unmanageable to a foreigner.*

32. The Ku'NUNos ; a wretched race, subject to the Kantees,
somewhat numerous. Language not written. They occupy the
mountains to the northward and eastward of the Hukung Valley,
toward Asam.

33. The MuT-TUCKS ; a tribe on the eastern border of Asam,
south of the Burarapooter, numbering twenty-five thousand men,
beside women and children. Some of their villages contain a
thousand houses each. It is probable they are the same people
sometimes called also Moo-a-nM-ree-as, Morams, and Moraha.

* Rev. Mr Branson lefl America in 1837, to labor amon^ this people.
He hai also interested himself for the Na^ahs.

214 WSSIOirART FISLIK

Though occupying a region rendered cold by its elevation, the^
have many comforts, and are a highly thrifty and intelligeit
people.

34. The Lap-chas, or SikkimSy are separated from the Chisen
dominions in Thibet by the Kha-wa Karpola ridge of the Him-
malaya. The eastern branch of the Teesta River separates ibam
from the Deb Raja of Bootan; and to the west, the KodId
River divides them from NepauL The length of the district is
about seventy miles, and the average breadth forty ; alnoost aD
hilly. The proi>er name of this people is Lapdui; the teira
Sikhims being given them from the name of the capitaL They
are one of the most important tribes of the Nepaul Valley.
They generally embrace the Boodhism of the Grand Lama; but
are very lax in their observance of it, killing animals, and drink-
ing to excess. They are intermixed very much with the Bootea&
The unicorn, so long deemed fabulous, is said certainly to exist
in this country. The region is under British influence, thougb
virtually independent The raja holds an intimate intercourse
with Lassa and China.

35. The DuF-LAs, sometimes spelled Duphlca, and some-
times Dupholas ; an independent tribe on the north border of
Asam, westward of Bootan. They are a powerful tribe, and
inhabit a region which, though hilly, is fruitful both in produce
and game. They are considerably civilized, and carry on a
bri^ traffic with their neighbors.

36. The A-KAs border on the Duflas, and are also independent

37. The Ku-PA Chow-as occupy a hilly range contiguous to
the Akas.

38. The Boo-TEAS, an independent tribe, in the neighbor-
hood of the Akas and Duflas, occupying both sides of the great
Himmalaya range. Those on this side are tributary to the
English, and those on the other side to some tribes of Tartars.
They are evidently of Thibet origin ; and the province was prob-
ably once part of that country. Much of the territory is above
the line of perpetual snow. The villagers migrate to the val-
leys in October, and return in May. Their principal subsistence
is derived from numerous flocks and herds. The villages are
small and scattered. The religion is Lamaisrn.

Beside these there are several tribes less known, such as, 3Sl
the Tangkools; 40. the Kons; 41. the Anals; 42. the Poorums;
43. Mueyols; 44. Munsangs; 45. Murings; and 46. Luhoppas;
all found on the mountain ranges to the eastward of Chitta-
gong; 47. the Rumbos; 48. Johoies; 49. Jompoles; 50. Gom-

MU8IONART FUCLDw 21^

inchis ; 51. Oojongs ; 52. Scrimenantis ; 53. Ulus ; 54. Calangs ; 55w
Jellaboos ; 56. Segamets ; 57. Kemoungs ; 58. Udais ; 59. Sakkeye^
60. Utans ; 6L Joccoods ; 62. Semangs ; 63. Oodees ; 64. Sakais ;
and, 65. Rayots; all on the Malay Peninsula, having different
languages, though more or less mixed with Malay; 66. the
Simongs, on the Yamunee River; 66. theReegas; 68. Pasees;
69. Mizongs; 70. Bibors; and 71. Barkans; all on the northern
edge of Asam, toward the Lama country; 72. the Uniyas;
73b Marchas; 74 Jowaries; and 75. Suryabans; on the margin
of the Himmalaya, in the region of Niti Ghaut, and SutUleje
Biver; 76. the Khoibus; 77. Longphus; 78. Champungs; 79.
Kapwis ; and 80. Korengs ; all occupying portions of the region
of Asam.

Here then, are twenty-six races of people in the Burman em-
pire, and eighty in the immediate vicinity, making a hundred and
9%x, The subdivision of many of these into tribes speaking
di^rent dialects, increases the number of distinct missions
which demand to be commenced to about a hundred and twenty.
Further investigations in these regions will discover other tribes,
equally entitled to missionary effort If the survey- were ex-
tended, so as to include the territories of the Grand Lama, where
it is^lieved there is no missionary, we should enrol some six-
teen or twenty tribes and dialects more.

Supposing the Baptist Board to be bound to supply only the
field described in this paper, and which has hitherto been left to
them, together with British and proper Burmah, and to send
only two missionaries to each language, what a mighty efibit is
required, compared to their present operations ! Two hundred
and forty men would be demanded immediately; and years
must elapse before they could acquire their respective languages.

Should we at once enter upon these fields, and forestall the
introduction of Hindu and Burman literature and superstition,
we should gain much every way. As regards literature alone,
promptitude is important. To commence this, among a rude but
rising people, is to save mountains of obstacles in future efforts.
Heathen literature is every where, and has always been, the
grand prop of heathen religions. It was the curse of Chaldea,
of Egypt, of Greece, of Rome, of Arabia. It is the curse of
India, of Burmah, of China. The absence of it is the huge ad-
vantage of the Karens, and one great cause, under Grod, of
missionary success writh that people. The same advantage is
now offered, in relation to the tribes here described; but it

316 mniosAKr

eannoC always contmue. They will soon ha?e Mahometan or
ffindu legends and Iherature, if we give them not the truth.

These remaiiLB are not at yariance with the admitted fiict that
ignorance is a principal hinderance of Christiaiiity. The eda-
cated heathen is as ignorant as the mieducated: nay, his requi-
sitions make him worse than ignorant Theyfill him with error.
They oppress him with stronger superstitions. They inflate bim
with pride, while they debase and harden his heart.

To give any people a written language, is not to divert die
missionary from his proper woik. It is a part of his work, and
highJy important In accomplishing it, he gives more or leas
literature to the people ; and this literature, being at the founda-
tion of all their future improvements, and based not on fiilse, but
on true philosophy, must even prove the handmaid to religion,
to say nothing of still higher benefits gained by giving a people
the written word of God. Two hundred and fifty or sixty men are
wanted this moment to supply these new fields, and to reenforce
the present missions in Burmah, even on the supposition that
native preachers will be raised up in numbers equal to nearly all
the demand for preaching.

J-

Further remarks are unnecessary. The facts speak with suf-
ficient eloquence. Where are the thousand young men in bur
churches ? Will they all go to the law, to physic, to merchan-
dise, to mechanics, or to the field, without once questioning the
propriety of giving themselves to the holy ministry ? Shall the
heathen, the Jew, the Mussulman, and the Papist, have none of
their sympathies ? Must every view of a perishing world be
shut from their eyes, while, in their own land, and for their own
ends, they seek domestic comforts, or amass property, or squab-
ble in politics ?

May those whose duty it is to embark in this blessed en-
terprise hear the voice of the Lord, saying, " Whom shall I send,
and who will go for us?" and without delay respond, "Here
am I ; send me."

CHAPTER ra.

>N THE BIEASURE OF SUCCESS WHICH HAS ATTENDED

MODERN MISSIONS.

DBtrodaction. — I. The Number of Missionaries. — II. The Kind of Labor
perfonnecl : Preparatory ; Collateral 3 Additional j Erroneous. — III. Dis-
advantages of Modem Missionaries : Imperfect Knowledge of the Lan-
guage ; Poverty of the Languages themselves ; Want of Familiarity vnth
the Religion and People 3 Degraded State of the Natives ; Inability to live
as they live ', Being Foreigners ; The Structure of Society 3 The prevsuling
Philosophy 3 The Presence of nom'mal Christians 3 Popery. — IV. Efforts
ivhich do not reach the Field. — V. The Amount accomplished : A larg^
Force in the Field 3 Impediments removed 3 Translations made 3 Lan-
guages reduced to Writing 3 General Literature imparted 3 Tracts written ;
Grammars, Dictionaries, and other Helps prepared 3 Immense Distribution
of Bibles and Tracts 3 Mechanical Facilities created 3 Schools established,
and Youth already educated 3 Blessings of Christian Moradity diffused ;
Idolatry in some Places shaken 3 Effects on Europeans abroad 3 Actual
Conversions.— y I. Effects on the Churches at Home — Remarks.

Maitt of the best friends of missions avow feelings of disap-
pointment, in regard to the measure of success wliich has at-
tended the enterprise. Considering the great efforts which have
been made, they are ready to infer either that there is some radi-
cal error in the mode of operation, or that " the set time" to
bring in the heathen, has not yet come. At this we can scarcely
wonder, when we consider the misstatements which are current,
and the prevalent deficiency of information on this subject, ev^i
among religious persons, for want of reading missionary peri-
odicals.

Those who stand aloof from the work, are still more disposed
to regard it as a failure. Some are not backward to charge those
who persist, with fanaticism and folly ; and a few go so far as to
brand them with chicanery and corruption, and to declare their
belief that most of the funds contributed for missions, are re-
tained by the hands through which they pass.

On the other hand, there are those who dwell always on ani-
mating prognostics and local successes. Reluctant to contem-
plate discoiu'aging circumstances, they anxiously exclude such

VOL. II. 19

218 MEASURE OF MIBSIONART SUCCESS.

details from what they say or publish, acd at monthly eoncerts
of prayer, or other public meetings, create an impression that the
work is well nigh done, at least in some places. There is thus
a danger of making contributions to missions the fruit rather of
temporary emotion than habitual principle, and of graduatiii|[
the measure of our duty more by the amount of success than
the distinctness of injunction. And when, in a course of yean,
^e expected results are not realized, there is a proneness to
dejection and lassitude.

The writer cannot join with those whose tone is chiefly that
of exultation. But he is persuaded that missions bare succeeded,
to a degree fully equal to the amount and kind of labor bestowed,
and presents the following considerations to sustain this opinioa

Before proceeding to measure the absolute magnitude of what
has been accomplished, it is necessary to consider the true
amount of means employed, and the exact manner in which they
have been applied.

I. The number of missionanes, and the amount qftime and energj
ihey have had to bestow on their work.

1. The English Baptist Missionary Society was formed in 1792;
the London Missionary Society in 1795 ; the Scotch Missiooary
Society in 1796; the Church Missionary Society in 1800; the
American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions in
1810 ; the Baptist Board in 1814 ; the Episcopal and the Meth-
odist Missionary Societies in 1820.

Of course, the first years in each of these societies produced
very few missionaries. By a careful analysis of all the mission-
ary statistics within reach, it appears that in 1810, the whole
number of stations was twenty-nine ; in 1820, fifty-seven ; and
at the present time, about four hundred. If we allow two mis-
sionaries to a station, it gives us, in 1810, fifty-eight ; in 1820, a
hundred and fourteen ; and at the present time eight hundred.
We thus perceive that we have proceeded but slowly to the
present magnitude of our operations. One half of the present
number of missionaries have gone out within so recent a period,
as not yet to have acquired the languages of their people.

2. The lives of missionaries are shorter than those of ministers
at home ; not exceeding, probably, on an average, more than eight
or nine years.

3. As the highest instances of longevity are found among those
who gave themselves chiefly to translations and English preach-
ing, the average life of such as were devoted to the inmiediate
conversion of natives is still &rther lessened.

HKASn&S OF MISSIOKAKT SUCCSSB. 319

4^ A]l those who died before they had been in the field four
are to be presumed not to have become efficient preachers.

5L Three or four years are to be deducted fi-om the brief span
oTall missionaries^ as time spent chiefly in study.

6. Most missions have been carried forward in regions where
the missionaries were robbed of one fourth of their effective
enei^y by climate. Combine all these considerations, and the
absolute amount of direct efforts for the conversion of heathen
ia reduced to a very paltry sum.

Again : The calculations which have been made on the labors
of the wives of missionaries, are for the most part, much too
large. Speeches, essays, and sermons have described the public
usefulness of females in glowing terms. It has even been declared
lliat on this account, « almost all missionaries of the Protes-
tant churches may count for two." The seclusion of women in
certain countries, has principally given rise to this opinion, as
they can find access to their own sex io a manner not practicable
to their husbands. But it must be considered that only in a
part of the field are females rigidly secluded, and then only the
higher classes, with which few missions have much to do. Few
missionaries* wives have acquired the language to such an extent
as to enable them to be useful in this way. Their opportunities
f«H* learning are by no means so good as those of their husbands.
Household duties demand some time; their minds have been
less trained to the acquisition of language ; and such as haVe
children are greatly put back in their studies, and hindered from
missionary work, if ever so familiar with the language. Among
ourselves, we do not reckon ministers' wives as so many evange-
lists, when we compute the degree to which a state or county is
supplied with the means of grace. Much less can we calculate
upon the wives of missionaries. The helps and facilities enjoyed
by a woman at home, who essays to do public good, are not found
among the heathen. There, few nurses or servants can be
trusted alone with children, even for an hour ; the elder ones are
not safe away at school, but must be about tlie mother, and
taught wholly by her — itself a great task, which few mothers in
America could add to their other cares. In sickness, she is not
aided by a circle of kind friends, but must nurse her husband,
her child, or her scholar, day by day, alone; destitute even of the
aid which servants might render, could they fully understand her
commands or customs. At home, a minister's wife does good
chiefly through others, by setting in motion and keeping up plans
which they can execute. But not so with the missionary's wife.

290 MEASURE OF MISSIONART SUCCESS.

She has around her no circle of active and unencumbered sis-
ters, to teach Sabbath schools, to form Bible classes, or to consti-
tute societies for good objects. All she does must be carried
on, from beginning to end, by her own individual unassisted
energies. She must find her principal sphere of usefulness m
keeping her husband whole-hearted and happy ; in being a good
housewife; sustaining all the domestic cares; training up her
children well ; furnishing her husband prudent counsel and aA
fectionate support ; and setting before the heathen the sweet and
impressive example of a well-ordered Christian fkmily, and the
elevated and purifying character of conjugal life, as regulated by
the New Testament. As time and opportunity offer, she should
diligently and thoroughly study the language. Then let her
take every opportunity of conversing with such as come to the
house, form a circle of acquaintance among the native females,
and faithfully visit among them as a Christian teacher.

Unmarried females, and such as have no children, may gen-
erally be regarded as missionaries in the fullest sense. Some of
these have maintained for years a course of public usefulness
not inferior to their masculine feUow-laborers.

n. The kind of labor which has been performed,

1. Up to the present period, the principal portion of missiona-
ry labor has been preparatory.

He who views the lofty column is apt to forget how great have
been the labors of the architect beneath the surface of the earth,
and how widely the hidden foundations spread round beneath
his feet So when we survey the results of missions ; most of
the labor, though indispensable, is not now seen. Nor can any
inspection of their present condition disclose the extent and
variety of past labors.

We need not here stop to inquire whether missionaries have
devoted too much time to translations, authorship, schools, secular
business, or preaching in English. It is sufficient for the present
argument, that the major part of our eflforts have been so ex-
pended, it is not possible to arrive at precision in regard to
the exact proportion ; but from careful inquiries, I am led to set
down, as preparatory, three fourths of the work done in India,
much more as to China and Western Asia, and somewhat less
in most other missions.

2. No small portion of time and energy has been spent on
objects which may be called collateral.

A pastor at home looks for these labors to his church, and to

IDBASURE or MISSIONART SUCCESS. 991

beiieyolent societies. He has around him those who maintain
Sunday schooJs, distribute Bibles and tracts, sustain pecuniary
agencies, hold meetings in private houses, visit the sick, main-
tain discipline, and perform a multitude of other services, which
is a foreign land devolve on the missionary alone. The frac-
tion of effort, left after making the deductions of the last head,
ia therefore to be still fiuther abridged, if we mean to measure
misaonaries by ministers at home.

3. He has many duties additional to those of a pastor in a
Christian land.

In addition to all his studies and labors of a strictly missiona-
17 and evangelical character, he must erect places of worship,
dwellings, and school-houses ; employ and oversee native assist-
ants and catechists ; and send out agents, with Bibles and tracts.
In the absence of physicians, friends, nurses, and trained ser-
vants, he must be surgeon, midwife, and nurse, in his own
fionily. In many cases, he must devote considerable time to the
dispensing of medicine to the natives. He must be school-
master for his own children, as well as Sunday school teacher,
and perhaps superintend native schools.

Beside this list of duties, so large as almost to seem absurd,
he must correspond with his friends at home, the Society, and
fellow-missionaries ; keep careful money accounts ; and maintain
a proper intercourse with Europeans around him.

4. Many missionaries have felt obliged to imitate the example
of Carey, Marshman,and Ward, and of the Moravians generally, in
devoting much time to raising pecuniary resources. While the
public was but half awake to their duty, there was much reason
for this. There are perhaps cases now where it is proper.
I only name it as another deduction from our computation of
the measure of means strictly spent in converting the heathen.

5. Much time and money have been expended erromously, at
least in several missions.

Shops, houses, mills, farms, machines, implements, fonts of
type, and books, have been made unwisely, and relinquished ; or
OBMule at too great a cost The temporal i^airs of the people have
received too much attention. Periodical publications have en-
trenched on higher duties ; translations have in some cases been
made prematurely ; and in others great labor has been bestowed
in making revisions, which prove not to be improvements.

All this was to be expected, hi labors not expressly patterned
in the New Testament, we have no teacher but experience,
whose instructions are always costly. No reasonable man could

19*

2Sd MEASURE OF BUSSIONA&T SUCCESS.

expect this item to be less than it is. Happily the pressure
of such expenses has passed away with die period of our
inexperience.

m. We will now glance at the disadvcmiages under uhith fle
best and purest missionary labor is exerted.

The bigotry, superstition, and sensuality of the heathen, their
want of early training in the proper theory of religion, the ab-
sence of a correct moral sense, and similar disadvantages of
great magnitude, not felt by ministers in a Christian land, will
not be insisted upon; because they equally impeded the
i^stles, who nevertheless had great success. I intend only to
name those which are peculiar to modem missionaries.

1. An imperfect knowledge of the language of the people.

Scarcely one missionary in twenty has become able to preach
with entire fluency, and probably never one had such a knowl-
edge of the language as inspiration gave. A great amount of
preaching has been done through interpreters, and these often
unconverted heathen, who could not give full force to themes
they did not comprehend. Few can acquire such mastery of a
foreign tongue, as to express their thoughts with the glow and
intensity of a native, even when the idiom and structure of the
language is thoroughly understood.

An experienced missionary in Bengal assured me, that on an
average, not one half of the sermons of missionaries who under-
take to preach is understood. Dr. Carey, in a letter of August,
1809, states that after, by years of study, he thought he had fiilly
mastered the Bengalee, and had then preached it two full years,
he discovered that he was not understood ! Yet Dr. C.'s teachers
flattered him that he was understood perfectly. This is a very
common deception of pundits and moonshees. In the opinion
of one of the most experienced missionaries in the Madras
presidency, not one missionary in ten, out of those who live the
longest, ever gets the language so as to be generally understood,
except when declaring the simplest truths. This is a difficulty
not to be removed. Merchants and traders may easily acquire
the vocabulary of traffic and social life, and so do missionaries.
They may go further, and be able to read or understand literary
and historical subjects. But to have the ready command of
words, on abstract theological subjects, and all the nice shades
of meaning requisite to discuss accurately mental and moral
subjects, can only be the work of many years, of intense study,
and great practice.

IttABUmX or mSSIOlTART SOOCKSi. SSB

2l There is a still greater difficulty in the poverty of the lan-
guages themselves.

For terms which are of primary importance in religious di^
course, words must often be used which are either unmeaning,
or foreign to the purpose, or inaccurate. It is not easy to ex-
lubit this difficulty in its true magnitude, to such as have not
mixed with heathen. A few examples may, however, make the
argument intelligiUe. Words equivalent to God, Lord, &c,
must, in various languages, be those which the heathen apply
to their idols; for there are no others. In Tamul, the word
pdvum (sin) signifies only << exposure to evil ;" or simply ^evil ;"
whether natural or moral ; and may be applied to a beast as well
as a man. The word padesvUam (holiness) means ^ clearness."
Regeneration is understood by a Hindu or Boodhist to mean
« another birth " in this world, or " transmigration." The ptar-
poMS of God they understand to be << fate." The word used in
Bengalee for holy, (d'harma) sometimes means ^ merit " acquired
by acts of religious worship, and sometimes ''that which is
agreeable to rule or custom." When the compound word Holy
Ghost is translated, it becomes *^ Spirit of rule," or some phrase
not niore intelligible. In the. Episcopal Liturgy hi Bengalee, it is
rendered ^ Spirit of existence," (sadatma ;) and Mr. Yates, in his
new version of the Scriptures, uses the word pabibru, ^ clean."
This last, while it avoids the hazard of conveying a wrong idea,
and seems to be the best rendering, is yet evidently imperfect
In Siamese, the word most used for sin (tot) means either "^ guilt,"
or the ^ punishment of guilt," or simply ^ exposure to punish-
ment" The best word the missionaries can get for holy, is
horesut, ''purified," when people are spoken of; and saksit,
"or Spirit having power because of sanctity," when the Holy
Ghost is meant There is no Siamese word equivalent to repent ;
and a phrase is used signifying "to establish the mind anew," or
«* make new resolves." In Burman, there is no term equivalent
to our heaven, and a word meaning "sky," or more properly
" space," is used ; nor any word for angel, and the rendering of that
term has to be " sky-messenger ; " nor any word for condemn, ex-
cept the circumlocution " decide according to demerit, or sin ; "
nor any word for conscience, thank, &c. &c. I might add scores
of such cases, given me by missionaries. There is scarcely a
theological term not subject to this difficulty.

For a multitude of our terms there is no word at all. Among
these are not only theological terms, such as sanctification, gos-
pel, evangelist, church, atonement, devil, &c, but the names of

994 MBABUKS OF MISSIONART . f UOOB8S.

implements, animals, customs, clothing, and many other thiigi^
of which igDorant and remote tribes have never heard, and lor
which entire new terms are obliged to be coined.

Let a man imagine how he would be embarrassed in readisgi
book, or hearing a discourse, in which he constantly met w^
Greek or Aralnc terms, and words used in & sense diflforiog
more or less from that in which he understands them, and than
often the principal terms in the sentence ; and he may form somi
conception of this difficulty. Even the native assistant, preaching
in his mother tongue, is not properly understood ; for he moBt
use these terms.

3. Want of familiarity with the system and sacred books to
be encountered, and with national prejudices and modes of
thinkmg.

For exposing with freedom, and attacking with power, a pop-
ular belief^ these are eminent advantages. Hence, in part, the
superior success of native preachers. The apostles were native
preachers, almost wherever they went ; and we see how largely
they used their intimate knowledge of the national religion and
habits of thinking, not only in disputations, but in formal dis-
courses and epistles. Many years must elapse before a mi»-
sionary can attain this power ; and then only by the wearisome
perusal of many volumes of disgusting legends, as well as con-
tact virith natives in many ways, and for a long period.

4 The rudeness and ignorance of the people sought to be
reclaimed.

Idolatry tends steadily downward; and eighteen centuries
have served to degrade the heathen far below the latest and most
corrupt Greeks and Romans. When mankind began to fall
away from the living God, there remained some knowledge of
the proper attributes of Deity, and a comparative nobleness and
purity in the human mind. But the objects of worship, the rites
enjoined, and the character of the people, steadily sunk lower
and lower. Hence all nations refer to past ages, as having
greater purity and happiness than the present. Iniquitous ora-
cles, abused asylums, horrid bacchanalia, and human sacrifices,
were known, even in Greece and Rome, only to later generationa
With all these abominations, they possessed no contemptible
amount of arts, sciences, literature, and poetry. Syria, Mace-
donia, Greece, Italy, and Northern Africa, forming the field of the
first missions, were the centre of civilization and intelligence.
The wide intercommunication maintained by travelling philoso-
phers and marching armies, gave impulse to intellect, and dis-

XBASUmX OF MIBSIOirART BUCCXfS* 985

■eminated knowledge. The Roman, the Greek, the Jew, the
Egyptian, was far less of a brute, than the savage or semi-civ-
ilized object of our philanthropy.

For a long period before the birth of Christ, a leaven of con-
tempt for pagan rites had been difitised by Pythagoras, Socrates,
Plato, Aristotle, and others. Every century brought forth some
such writers^ and increased the effect of the former works.
Socrates, Lycurgus, Demosthenes, and others^ had by their
orations stirred up the stagnation of the public mind. Euclid,
Zeno, Epicurus, ApoUonius, Archimedes, and Eratosthenes, led
the select few to a noble expansion and activity of the intel-
lectual powers. Afterward came the satires and exposures of
Horace, Lucian, and Juvenal, turning a strong tide of ridicule
upon the prevailing mythology. To quote more names might
seem pedantic ; but there was then scarcely a department of
learning without writers which, to this very day, maintain not
only a place among our studies, but admiration and utility.
Poetry, philosophy, history, eloquence, tragedy, mathematics,
geography, botany, medicine, and morals, were aU cultivated.
Such was the state of mankind when Christ came ; and while it
would have allowed a new system of superstition or error littie
chance of prevalence, it made a happy preparation for Chris-
tianity. Not, indeed, that any of the philosophy agreed with it ;
or that any of the philosophers adopted it " The wisdom of
this world,** then as now, deemed the cross << foolishness." But
tht people were trained to ifdnk, and both Jews and pagans were
capable of examining, and disposed to understand, the nature of
the new religion.

The nations among whom missions are now conducted, are in
general the reverse of all this. With them the human intellect
has for ages been at a stand. Improvements in any thing are
not imagined. Without valuable books, withoqt a knowledge of
other countries, without foreign commerce, without distant con-
quest, without the strife of theology, without political freedom,
without public spirit, — what is left for them, but listlessness,
ignorance, and pride ? Such of them as attempt study, learn
only falsehood and folly ; so that the more they learn, the less
they know. Their history, chronology, geography, physics, as-
tronomy, medicine, and theology, are so utterly wrong, that to
fill the mind with them is worse than vacuity. This is true of
the most dvilized heathen of this day ; and of many parts of the
missionary field, a much stronger picture might be drawn.
Such indurated ignorance is incomparably worse to deal with

996 MCASumx or missiovabt sugckbs.

than fine reasonings and fiilse philosophy. What can argomflBt
do, if not understood ? The edge of truth itself is turned I9
impenetrable dulness.

The depreciation of morals, is as great as that of inteDed
We look in vain even for Spartan or Roman virtue. Except
perhaps among the Cretans, it is hardly probable that the fint
preachers any where encountered such a spirit of falsehood tad
deceit as distinguish the heathen now. Truth is utterly wanting^
Man has no confidence in man. The morality is not only defeo-
tive, it is perverted. Killing a cow or an insect, is more shoddng
than the murder of an enemy : lying for a brahmin is a yirtin 1
stealing for real want is no sin: a few ceremonies or offer-
ings expiate all crimes. Transmigration abolishes identity ; for,
if perfectly unconscious in one state of existence, of ail that
transpired in previous ones, identity is virtually lost Sin is re-
duced to a trifle, the conscience rendered invulnerable, generooi
sentiments extinguished, and the very presence and exhortatioofl
of the missionary engender a suspicion destructive to his suc-
cess. His reasons for coming are not credited ; and the fear of
political treachery is added to a detestation of his creed. The
best supposition they can make, is that he is seeking religiom
merit, according to his own system, and careful not so much for
their conversion, as for his personal benefit in a future state.

5. Inability to live as the people live.

Except at a few points, the manners and customs are such that
a missionary cannot adopt them without disadvantage. It has
often been tried, to a greater or less degree ; but always relin-
quished, for numerous good reasons which I cannot here stop to
adduce. In some missions, the health and even the life of a
missionary require him to live in a better house, and more expen-
sively than the chiefs, or perhaps the king. The consequent
evils may be partly conceived, by considering the effect with us
of a minister's living in a style superior to that of his richest
hearers, without having any dependence on them for support
It is not the question here whether this evil may not be palliated
in some places. It has existed as a disadvantage in many in-
stances, and in many must probably always so remain.

6. The world is not now under a single government The
apostles were every where fellow-subjects ; for the stupendous
power of Rome presided over the known world. But the mis-
sionary is now a foreigner, living in foreign modes, hold-
ing his connections with foreign powers, and endeavoring to
introduce a foreign religion. In one part of the field, he is

MMAUHm OF MtaBiQMABJ apc«iBaft. USSf

jUther wondered at as a superior being, or feared as a pc^tical
^gcuoit ; and in the other, dej^ised as coming finom some barbarous
island on the confmes of creation. To be either a Roman or a
4ew, secured to the first preachers a fraternity wherever they
inent Our missionary finds none, till, by the blessing oi God,
he Joakes iL From some countries he is kept aloof by inexorar
lile prohibitions ; in some, his life is unsafe ; in some, ofiicial ob-
Btmctions are thrown in his way, so as almost to discourage
efiort ; and in others, though protected by Christian rulers, he is
almost precluded from usefulness by the influence of their
raample.

7. The structure of society.

At first. Christians could be tolerated even ^ in CeesaFs house*
bold," and retain ofiices, civil and military. The persecu-
tions were not so much by the people as the government, and
the converts could prosecute their callings, whether as tanners,
tent-makers, fishermen, or centurions. Now, the adamantine
barrier of caste fences off into innumerable sections the two
hundred millions of India ; while all, fi*6m the highest to the
lowest, unite against Christianity. The convert becomes an
outcast, in such a sense of that word as Europeans -cannot con-
ceive. He is not only deprived of property, but torn firom wife
and children, and abandoned, without the means of subsistence.
Unless the missionary devise a mode of subsistence for him, he
must starve. In addition to other evils, this state of things tends
to keep off all who have property to lose, and draw together
mendicants, idlers, and criminals, to profess Christianity for
temporal ends.

Among Mahometans, Boodhists, and other pagans, to become
a Christian entails most of these trials, though in other forms.
The convert is cast out as evil. His relations deny him, his busi-
ness fails, his children are a by-word, his rulers are displeased,
and his life endangered.

Among still ruder nations, the distinction of tribes cuts up
the human femUy into small, insulated portions, denying to each
other common kindnesses. Afler spending many years to ac-
quire a language, there are but a few thousands to whom it can
be the medium of truth. Wars, wanderings, extreme poverty,
and desperate degradation, seem to preclude the very hope of
success.

8. The apostles were not every where met by a system of
natural philosophy which directly contradicted all their teachings.

Wherever Christianity now goes, a new system of geography

2S)8 MSABUKE OF MISSlONART SITCCXSS.

and astronomy must be adopted. It cannot be said that the
missionary may pass by this topic, and only preach Christ cruci-
fied. His hearers will not let him pass it by. The coimtiy he
professes to have left, cannot exist by their system. The Shastor
and the Bedagat must fall, if his system be true. He will be tl*
tacked upon it It will be regarded as a part of his religk
belief^ and he must clear away their cosmogony, before he
build his faith.

With the few who can be so fiir educated as to understand
and receive the Copemican system, this difficulty is converted
into a facility. Such are at least rendered unbelievers in their
own religion. But the mass of the people will long remain in
the old belief and as Christianity cannot wait to be preceded by
schools, missionaries must meet this difficulty in all its strength.

9. The presence of nominally Chrisdan countrymen.

These are now found almost every where ; and too many of
them, by their ungodly lives, present to the undistinguisliing
heathen a continual ground of objection. Their lewdness, ex-
tortions, oppressions, riotous living, desecration of the Sabbath,
neglect of sacred things, direct opposition, and secret obstructionB,
wring the soul of the missionary, fill his way with thorns, and
tend to nullify his greatest exertions.

Where Christian governments have borne rule, and where his
own life has been most secure, he has found those very govern-
ments arrayed against his success. When Buchanan would
have given forth information touching the abominations of Hin-
duism, not a journal in Calcutta dared publish his communica-
tions ! When he made them from the pulpit, his friends were
not allowed to publish the sermons. When he returned to Eng-
land, and published these things, his statements were denied,
and his character assailed. The East India Company long
opposed the introduction of missionaries, or kept them under a
surveillance which defeated their object. Had not the Danish
settlement at Serampore afibrded an asylum, till an experiment
was made, evincive of the political harmlessness of evangelical
labors among the natives, it is doubtful whether India would
have been opened to this day. It is only necessary to refer to
the periodical accounts, to the Calcutta newspapers, and to the
occasional pamphlets of that time, to show how wilfully and
efiectively the messengers of mercy were hindered, for many
years ; and how large deductions ought to be made, on this ac-
count, from the fruits which might otherwise have been pro-
duced. Though the Indian government no longer exerts a

MSASUU or MI88IONART SUCCEfl. 999

Aect oppositioii to missioiiaries, it does many thiDgs, some of
wbich have been named in a previous chapter, to sustain pagan-
km and Mahometanism throughout its dominions.

The Dutch government has been even more inimical, and stiU
inuntuns its hostility. When Mr. Bruckner, after many years'
Umr, bad translated the New Testament into Javanese, he went
to Serampore, and at great expense got types cast, and printed it
But be no sooner returned, (in 1832,) and gave away a few copies,
dian the government seized the whole edition, and placed it in
the public stores, from whence it has never been restored. I
eould mention other fiicts of a similar character. Their own
obaplains and other clergy are under such restraints, as tend to
nullify or obstruct their labors to convert the natives.

The Spanish and Portuguese colonial governments in India
have avowedly opposed us from the beginning, on the ground
of our Protestantism.

At some of the Sandwich Islands, among various tribes of
American Indians, and in many other places where no govern-
mental opposition has been made, the influence and example
of unprincipled men, both residents and visitors, have been moat
distressing.*

In the most fiivorable aspect in which the missionary meets a
Christian government, in pagan lands, he finds it a government
of financial rapacity and military force. The natives cannot for-
get that the presence and power of the white man, is the fruit and
proof of their subjection and inferiority. Wherever he estab-
lishes his fort and his flag, it is to the subversion of their political
and civil consequence. A distinguished British writer declares.,
that with the exception of the obstacles which the impolicy of
Europeans themselves has created agaiust the propagation of
their religion, there exist no others. ^ In every country of the East,.

* O that immoral Christians living among idolaters, and inimical rulers^,
would consider how much more reprehensible they are than those who of old
professed to be his people, yet caused his name to be polluted among the (Sen-
tiles ! In the days of Ezekiel, *^ They were dispersed through the countries ;
and when they entered unto the heathen, whither they went, Uiey profaned my
boly name when they said, We are the people of the Lord, and are gone fiorth
out of his land. The heathen shall know that I am the Lord, saith the Lord
God, when I shall be sanctified in you, before their eyes/' Ezek. xzxvi. 19—
SS. In the days of Paul, it was still their reproach, ** Thou that makest thy
boast of [possessing] the law, through breaking the law, dishonorest thou God T
For the name of God is blasphemed among the Gentiles through you.'' Rom.
ii. 23,24.

VOL. II. 20

290 MEASURE or MISSIONARY SUCCESS.

Christianity has been introduced to the people along with the
invariable and odious associates of unprincipled ambition and
commercial rapacity.'** Hence their expulsion from Japaii
China, Tonquin, Cochin-Cbina, and Camboja ; and the precari-
ous footing of missionaries in Siam, Burmah. and other pkoea
^ it must be confessed that if the beauty of Christianity has not
convinced Orientals, it is principally by reason of the bad opm-
ion which the avarice, treachery, invasions, and tyranny of till
Portuguese, and some other Christians in the Indiesi, have im-
planted in them." f

10. The resistance made by Popery.

At a large proportion of the stations, there are Papal estab-
lishments. At these the priests always, and the people often,
are active and implacable opposers. The missionary's character
and labors are misrepresented ; his Bibles and tracts are declared
false and pernicious ; and salvation, for him or his adherents, is
pronounced impossible.

Worse than this is the contempt and aversion which they
create toward the Christian name. Their proselytes are seldom
less degraded and vicious than the heathen, and sometimes
more so. That they have not procured the exclusion of all nus-
sionaries, as they have from China and Japan, is because they
are not sufBciently powerful to excite the action of govemmenL
So far as they have ability, it is exerted to keep Protestantism
from pagans.

IV. 77te effed of much of the efforts at home does not reach the
fidd abroad.

Large sums have been spent in surveying the field, and sundry
lives lost for want of a better acquaintance with the countries,
climates, natives,! &c.

* Crawfurd's Indian Archipelago, vol. ii. book 6; chap. 4.

t La Loubiere, Du Royaume de Siam, torn. i.

X Men of the world exclaim against this ; but they spend money and life,
upon matters of infinitely less moment. They encounter the same perils, in
the same regions, in pursuit of wealth, science, or fame ; or perhaps, prompted
only by curiosity. Let but the effort to discover the sources and course of the
Niger be specified. In this one enterprise have perished Ledyard, Hougfatoo,
Park, Anderson, Homeman, Nichols, Roentgen, Tucker, Tudor, Craoch.
Galway, Spith, Peddie, Kummer, Campbell, Stockie, Toole, Denbam. Clap-
perton, Morrison, Pearce, Laing, and I know not how many more, all BoeB
of distinction and worth. With these have perished several hundred soldiers,
scientific attendants, servants, &c. AU these lives spent to discover the

sumi or mfsiovART iuccebb. 231

Large ezpeoMS, of both tune and money, are incurred for
agenciee, aeeretariahipfl, traveiling, clerk-hire, buildings, circu-
bra, pami^iletB, &c. Objections may lie against some of these
cases, and certain details. But the main question of expediency
and necessity remains clear. They yield no fruits in the foreign
field, but without them a beginning could not be made. Chris-
tians were ignorant of the various subjects involved in the un-
dertaking. They were both to be induced to move, and to be
taught how ; so that the whole eneigies of some have been ab-
sorbed in awakening the cooperation of others. For this there
is no present remedy but in the continuance of these very ex-
penses.* Even now, though thousands of pamphlets, reports,
speeches, sermons, &C., have been distributed, thousands of ad-
dresses made, and thousands of committees and associations
fbrmed, there are multitudes who do not understand the move-
ment For want of more of this sort of expense and labor, thou-
sands of sincere Christians have not been awakened to a proper
consideration of the enterprise ; and thousands, misjudging it,
oppose.

In addition to these expenses, large sums are absorbed by the
outfit, passages, and salaries, of missionaries who die before they
acquire the language. Very costiy libraries have to be furnished
to stations where translations are in progress. Those who

of a river flowing through pestilent solitudes, and occupied by barbarous
tribes ! And for what purpose 7 To convey peace and eternal life to these
benighted Africans 7 No. To add a few facts to science, and perad venture,
to open a new market for European manufactures ! The settlement of many
colonies, the attempts to discover a north-west passage, and a score of other
such enterprises, might be named, which have involved greater loss of life, than
the whole missionary enterprise from the beginning.

* This item, though large, is apt to be overrated. At an early period of
missionary operations, when the total receipts were small, and great personal
efforts required to collect them, the proportion was greater than at present.
The average income of the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign
Missions is about <^260,000, and the average expenditures for agencies, salaries,
travelling expenses of missionary candidates for examination, postages, rent,
and other incidental expenses, about <g[20,0(X), being a fraction less than 8 per
eent. The expenditures of the Baptist Board of Foreign Missions are about
gdOjOOO, and the home expenses ^7000, which is also a fraction less than 8 per
eent. The proportion in other societies is, probably, about the same. Con-
tributors ought, certainly, to feel gratified to know that they can collect their
missionaries, place their donations abroad, and convert their money into Bibles
and tracts, at so small a charge as eight cents on a dollar. Were the income
of missionary societies doubled, the home charges would not be materially
increased, as the present organizations would suffice.

SSI MSABUftB or mSBIOlTABT 8VCCBM.

know the price of many necessary woiks in the learned tan-
giiages, will feel the force of this consideration. This sort of
expense, and all those connected with setting up a printing-
office, must be renewed at every principal mission to be es-
tablished.

The outlay for societies* houses, secretaries, treasurers, derid^
&C., will not increase in proportion to increased operation
Once properly organized, a set of officers can as well conduct a
hundred missions as fifty. Experience will reduce many ex-
penses, both abroad and at home. The houses, lands, presses^
types, machinery, libraries, &c., now possessed, will remain as so
much capital Natives will soon learn to do printing, &C., and
the cost of manipulations be reduced. The }irices of passages
will lessen, as facilities and improvements multiply. In short,
every charge between the donor and his object may be expected
to decrease. The churches will come to the work with more
readiness ; systematic contribution will succeed to desultory col-
lections; few brethren will remain to be convinced and urged;
and the apparatus of agencies will cease to be burdensome.

V. Let us now look at the ctmount which has been aecomplMed,

1. Numerous and formidable impediments have been re-
moved.

Ignorance of the field, and of the nature of the work, have
given way to knowledge and experience. An entrance and
location among various strange nations, has been effected. The
difficulties of many languages are overcome. Several mission-
aries have attained, not merely a trader's fluency in the native
tongues, but that minute and critical knowledge which is neces-
sary to become authors, and to preach with advantage. Preju-
dices against Christianity have been overcome, in many places.
In some, the spirit of indifference has given way to a spirit of
inquiry ; and confidence in the missionary, and respect for the
purity of his principles, have been created. Most missionaries
who now go out, find brethren to welcome them, houses for their
reception, and other facilities which do away no small amount
of suffering, mistake, and delay. Had all our money effected
only these preliminaries, it would not have been ill spent

2. A great body of missionaries and native preachers are in
actual service.

The reports of some societies do not distinguish between
missionaries and assistants, printers, &c., so that it is not possible
to state the precise number of each. It will not be far fh)m the

KBASU&E OF MI88I01TART SUCCESS. 333

truth to say that there are one thousand ordained missionaries,
fifty printers, three hundred schoohnasters and assistants, and
sonoe hundred native preachers.

Of the ordained missionaries there are in Afiica one himdred
and twenty-eight ; other regions adjacent to the Mediterranean,
fifty-three ; Farther India, one hundred and sixty-eight ; Ceylon,
twenty-eight; Indian Archipelago, Australia, &c., eighty-one;
West Indies, two hundred and three ; North American Indians.
one hundred and eighteen. To send out one thousand mis-
sionaries, and three hundred and fifty printers, schoolmasters.
&C., with their wives, at an average of three hundred dollars for
passage, and two hundred dollars for outfit, has cost one mUlion
Oute kundred ihousand doUars, to say nothing of the expense of
their education and the cost of the native assistants. The labor
of committees, correspondence, &c^ in discovering, examining^
preparing, and sending forth, this body of laborers, can only be
appreciated by those who have been engaged in such services. A
large proportion of these persons has been in the field long enough
to develop their character, and prove their suitableness. Here is.
then, another item sufiScient of itself to reward all our exertions.

3. The Word of God, in whole or in part, has been translated
by modem missionaries into nearly a hundred languages.

We ought to look steadily at this fact, till its difficulties, mag-
nitude, and importance, are in some sort perceived. These
translations, in many cases, have been made, from the original
tongues, with vast pains in collating versions, and after extensive
reading in the sacred writings of the natives, to gather suitable
words, true idioms, and general propriety.

Some of these versions have been printed in successive edi-
tions, each revised with a labor equal to that of the first transla-
tion. In several cases, different and independent translations
have been made into the same language ; thus furnishing mul-
tiplied materials for ultimately forming a satisfactory and es-
tablished version.

These versions embrace the languages of more than half ths
human famUy ; and some of them are among the most difficult
in the world.

4. A considerable number of languages have been reduced to
writing.

Strange sounds have been caught, ortliography settled, parts
of speech separated, and modes of construction determined In
doing this, it has been necessary to go into wearisome and per-
plexing examinations of native utterance; to collect, without

20*

384 HEA817EB OT MISBIONABT SUCCBSfl.

helps, all the words of whole languages; and to study deeply tin
whole system of universal grammar, or structure of languagM
in general

For some of these languages characters have been invented,
in whole or in part In most of them a considerable numbered
the people have been already taught toj-ead, and an introductial
is thus made to the increase of books, elevation of intellect, arid
extension of Christianity.

5. Missionaries have given to the heathen nearly all the usefid
literature they now enjoy.

With a few exceptions, they have been the mtroducers of the
art of printing, into all the pagan nations where it now existSi
Even in Hindustan, there had never been a book printed, in any
of her numerous languages, (except a Bengalee grammar, and
cme or two other works by the late Dr. Wilkins,) till the Baptist
missionaries gave them the boon.

It is not necessary to give specifications, to elucidate or am-
plify this argument Every literary man, and every reader of
missionary intelligence, will at once think of various countries,
where the facts exist, on which it is founded ; and will perceive
that this fruit of missions, though not directly evangelical, is
highly important*

6L Tracts, and practical works, have been produced in consid-
erable variety.

In the Bengalee alone, there are geveniy-Jive tracts, beside
Doddridge's Rise and Progress, Baxter's Call, Pilgrim's Progress^
Janeway's Token, Evidences of Christianity, Commentaries on
Mark and Romans, Young Henry, and some others. The Cal-
cutta Tract Society has printed more than 6525 pages of tracts;
equal to twenhf-iwo volumes of 300 pages each. At Madras have
been printed, in the Tamul language, seventy-one tracts, beside
broad-sheets ; at Jafiba eighty tracts, and at Travancore Jifty,
making in all over 200 publications in Tamul. About J^
tracts have been printed in the Malay ; in the Chinese, about
a hundrefiy comprising 5863 pages, or twice the amount of pages
in Morrison's Bible. In Burman, there are twenty-eight tracts,
making about 900 octavo pages ; beside portions of Scripture in
tract form. It would be tedious to make further specifications.

* CKir own Mhlical lit^ratiir^ owes much to the researches of missiooaries ;
in>t only for important ilhLstrations from manners, customs, natural history, &«.,
Imt (Vvr criticism. Sec, on the last point, a paper in the Quarterly Observer
ft>r jAiiiMr\\ I8^s on *' The obligations of philology to modem missiooaiy

AsASUftB OF mSSIONABT SUCCBSlf* 9S6

A Aikiong these publications are hymn-books, in several laii-

h gliages. Every one may conceive the difficulty of writing

IVoetiy in a foreign tongue, even if the metre and mode of versi-

i> Ifestion resemble our own ; the reverse of which is true of

■ €hiental languages. At most missions, the variety of hynms is
il How sufficient for public and private worship, and some ad-
ir y/kbce has been made in teaching converts to sing. I could

not explain, without too many words, the labor and difficulty of

■ liAt work in both its departments.

AU these works are to be enjoyed by fUture converts, to their
f more speedy and effectual growth in grace; and by future
! missionaries, in extending the knowledge and the arguments by
which Christianity is to prevail

The amount printed, forms but a fraction of what has been
nliade. Part of the rejected or postponed matter may yet be
serviceable ; but a large number of manuscripts, made by begin-
ners, though useful in their place as studies, will never be printed.
The amount of life and labor expended in producing the read-
ing matter now extant, is not easily conceived. It is a labor firom
which fruit can only now begin to be realized. The same noise-
less, and for the time, ineffective labors, must be performed in all
new missions, and continued to a great extent in the old ones ;
but so far as idiomatic, intelligible, and adapted works have been
prepared, it is work done forever.

7. In nearly every mission there have been prepared a
grammar, vocabulary, and dictionary.

Rude and imperfect as some of these necessarily are, because,
in iheir first stages of preparation, they furnish most desirable
aid to beginners, saving not only months of labor, and much
health and strength, to new missionaries, but forming the rudi-
mients which future students will improve to completeness. Not a
few of these helps have already advanced, under successive mis-
sionaries, to a good degree of perfection, and are among the
noblest literary works of the day.

8. An amount literally incalculable of Bibles and tracts has
been put into circulation.

Making the fullest deduction for such of these as may have
been destroyed, millions doubtiess remain, to prove, as we may
trust, seed sown in good ground

I am not among those who seem to think that if Christian
publications are scattered abroad, good must follow. But the rec-
ords of Bible and tract efforts most amply show that God smiles

936 XSASUILE OF MISSIONARY SUCCXSfl.

on this species of benevolence. Every annual report of these
societies gives fresh facts, so that volumes might be filled with
these alone. I give the following illustration, not because mon
striking tlian others which constantly occur, but because recent
and unpublished. A young man came to the Baptist brethren k
Cuttack, stating that in his own country, about six years befiire, Iw
had received from some stranger, who wore a hat, a religious tract;
which, almost without looking at, he placed in the bottom of Mi
chest Lately, a gentleman had come through the place, making
a survey of the country. The hat this person wore, reminded
the youth that once a person with a hat gave him a tract He
brought it forth from his chest, and for the first time read it over.
It proved the means of his awakening ; and he persisted in hii
inquiries. Having unreservedly become a disciple of Christy
he had now made a long journey to join himself to his people.
He was baptized, and returned, and is now a useful laborer in
the missionary service.

9. Great mechanical facilities have been created.

Beside the presses employed on foreign languages, by the Bible
and tract societies of Europe and America, there are now in
fiiU operation in heathen lands, more than forty printing-offices,
belonging to missionary societies. Some of these have from
five to ten presses, generally of the best construction. The fonts
of type are numerous, and in many different characters. Each
of these fonts has cost thousands of dollars, because, in addi-
tion to the usual expenses, there have to be incurred, in each case,
the cutting of punches, sinking of matrices, and apparatus for
casting. The alphabets, too, consist not of twenty-six letters,
like ours, but oflen of a thousand or more, mcluding symbols
and compounds. In addition to all these facilities, we may enu-
merate school-houses, chapels, dwellings, libraries, apparatus,
tools, globes, orreries, &c., at the different stations, and procured
at an outlay of hundreds of thousands of dollars. All of the
printing-offices have binderies, supplied with tools sufficient to
do the work of the respective establishments.

Many natives, at the cost of much labor and time, have been
trained to all the branches of mechanics connected with these
offices. In bringing matters to their present position, the mis-
sionaries have not only been obliged to devise, teach, and over-
see, but in many cases, to perform every part of the manual
labor. These services and expenses are not again to be per-
formed in the same places. The costly scaffi)lding is up, for

MEASURE OF MISSIONARY ST7CCS88.

f llfge portions of the growing edifice; and future labor and
11 money, on those sections, may go directly to the increase of the
■ birilding,

I Beside the property invested in these facilities, and forming a
I lilrge available capital, we. are to consider the savings which will
li be made hereafter, by the improvements which have been effected.
ji Tills point may be made plain by a single spccifk^tion. In 180S»,
I ffae cost of printing a manuscript Chinese version of the New
i; Testament, then existing in the British Museum, it was ascer^
I tinned, would be two guineas (ten dollars) per copy.* In 183S;
[ Mr. Hughes, of Malacca, wrote to the British and Foreign Bible
Society,! that the cost of a hundred copies of the whole
Bible, from the blocks, would be one hundred and four dol-
lars — a difference of about three thousand per cent ! Whenever
punches and matrices have been made, the casting of type may
hereafter be done at a comparatively cheap rate.

10. Schools of various grades are established, and a multitude
of youth have received a Christian education.

To appreciate, in any proper degree, the magnitude of this
result, it is necessary to consider the difficulties which have been
overcome. In almost every case, the first offers of gratuitous
instruction are spumed. When, at length, a few pupils are ob-
tained, priestly influence has often driven them away. When
even this is overcome, the children are frequently too wayward
and idle to continue at school. Our victory, therefore, over the
prejudices and jealousy of parents, the influence of priests, and
the frivolity of the children, is a great achievement Now, in
many places, applicants are far more numerous than can be
received, and nothing but want of funds precludes an almost
unlimited extension of the system. £ven brahmins send their
sons without hesitation.

I need not expatiate on all the probable eflect of these jschools,
many of whose pupils are adults, and many more, who, though
youth when at school, are adults now. They have diminished
priestly influence by raising up an intelligent body of persons,
who, though ever so humble, can and do argue triumphantly
with the men who had before held the sway of great veneration.
They have diffused a right knowledge of Christians and Chris-
tianity, overthrown erroneous systems of philosophy and nature,
arrested floods of vice, prepared inteUigent hearers of the gospel,

♦ Owen's First Ten Years of the British and Foreign Bible Society,
t Report of the British and Foreign Bible Society, 1833.

838 MEASURE OF MISSIOIfA&T SUCCESS.

proved the superiority of the missionary, and, in many cases^
have been the means of genuine conversion.

Some of these are boarding-schools, where the pupils are
wholly withdrawn from heathen influence. Some of them are
for the children of native Christians, who receive at home im-
pressions favorable to the permanency of those they receive at
schooL Some of them teach the higher branches, such as fom
a collegiate course with us. Some are taught in languages never
before conmiitted to writing ; so that the pupils are the first of
their tribes who have ever learned to read. Some of them aze
for females, in countries where the sex has ever been left Id
almost total ignorance.

The whole number of pupils who have received education, or
are now in the schools, cannot be ascertained. From the statia-
tics furnished on this head by some societies, and the imperfect
returns of others, I set down the pupils now in missionaiy
schools, throughout the world, at nearly three hundred thousand.

11. The blessings of Christian morality have been widely
diffused.

Some whole nations have adopted Christianity. In Green-
land,* in Labrador, and in more than thirty islands of the
Southern Seas, paganism has ceased to be the national &itb!
These have become, in the customary sense, Christian courdnts.
Instead of poverty, wars, and plunderings, are found plenty,
peace, and security. Instead of murdered infants, neglected
children, degraded wives, and burning widows, are seen do-
mestic peace and social endearments. Instead of idleness, are
the comforts of intelligent industry. Intellectual cultivation has
supplanted brutal insensibility. Rulers and kings, laying aside
ferocity and selfishness, are seen governing their people by Bible
laws, and anxious for the general good. Wherever even nom-
inal Christianity takes root, through Protestant eflforts, it pro-
duces more energy of character, milder manners, and purer
morals, than has ever been shown under any form of Pagan or
Maliometan influence. I confidently refer for proof to the Pbil-
lippine Islands, to Amboyna, Bengal, and Ceylon,

There are, also, in the midst of heathen lands. Christian vil-
lages and districts, shining as lights in dark places ; such, for
instance, as at Serampore, Luckantiapore, Tanjore, Tenevelly,
Ceylon, Mata, and scores beside.

* la Greenland there remained^ in 1834, only one hundred and filly bea*
then!

MXASUmE OP MISSIONARY SUCCBSB^ 999

** Dialects unheard
At Babel, or at Jewish Pentecost,
- ^ ' - Now first articulate divinest sounds,

' ^-t^ And swell the universal anthem."

'^^^niere are also single stations, where nominal Christians are
^^^Hkoned by thousands. It is true, the degree to which the fruits
Chiistianity are produced, is not the same as in Christendom,
its influences are corroborated in a thousand ways, and
^^iHitured upon successive generations. The conduct of these
<TlHMiiiiia] ones is oilen a discouragement, and sometimes a disgrace.
^ Ikrt the benefits preponderate. Children grow up among bene-
ficial influences, and enlightened to know good from eviL In-
^ itead of a false, filthy, and damning mythology, commingling
^) with their first and most lasting impressions, they are instructed
^ md restrained by pure and blessed truth. The Sabbath is ob-
J mred, and the same people assembling from week to week,
^ 8ffi>rd an opportunity of impressing line upon line, precept upon
^' precept; converts are not embarrassed for daily bread, nor
scorned, abused, and abandoned by relations. Many formidable
^[ lunderances to conversion are thus removed. I need not expand
^ this proposition. The reader will see, that among such a people,
^ the missionary labors with many advantages similar to those
m of a pastor in our own land.

J 12L In some places, the entire fabric of idolatry is shaken.
9 The knowledge of the one true God, and of salvation through
r his Son, has, in several regions, become general. Hundreds of
i the best-informed persons openly ridicule and denounce the
prevailing superstition ; and thousands have their confidence in
it weakened, if not destroyed. Conviction of the truth is estab-
lished in the minds of multitudes who dare not openly confess
it Not a few of the converts have been from among the distin-
guished members^ of society, and even from the priesthood.
Some of these have been so celebrated for sanctity, and so ex-
tensively known, as to have excited, by their conversion, a thrill
of inquiry and alarm in all their vicinity. Education has eman-
cipated thousands from the terrors of paganism, who yet do not
accept Christianity, nor consort with missionaries. Indeed, no
man can be conversant with the heathen world, without per-
ceiving that several large portions of the kingdom of darkness
are on the eve of a religious and moral revolution.

This topic of encouragement is no doubt extravagantly en-
larged upon by some. It has been assumed of countries where

94Q MSA8UEX OF MISSIOIfART 8UCCS8S.

it 18 not true ; and where it is true, the degree has been overrated.
Still, it is one of the achievements of missions which the nMMt
scrupulous must admit That it is found any where, and to aiqr
extent, is great encouragement ; it is not only a blessing on ptiC
effi>rt8, and the promise of a still greater, but a most «"'""**^
&cility and preparation for future exertion.

13. The e£^t of missions on the European popuhtiM^
abroad.

Before this enterprise, there was, among those who resided tt
foreign lands, whether in public or private life, an almost uni-
versal enmity to religion. Carey said that when he arrived ia
Calcutta, he could hear of only three pious persons in India; ex*
cepting the four or five missionaries ! Now, a considerable num-
ber, even among the highest ranks, in many parts of the East, open-
ly serve God. Hundreds of soldiers, and many (^cers, have been
converted under missionary labor. Places of worship are buil^
and the Sabbath observed^ where Christians had long resided
without giving any visible sign of their &ith* Missions now
have the countenance of a large number of gentlemen who
make no profession of religion. Apologies fi>r paganism, and
opposition to Christianity, are nearly silenced. In various
places, handsome contributions toward the schools, &C., are
obtained fi'om the officers and gentry on the spot

On no theme do pious " old Indians " dwell with more fervor
than this change in the religious character of Europeans, since
their arrival in the country. I might rehearse numerous fiicts
given me by such, but space does not permit. It is sufficient to
say that much obstruction is thus removed at certain points, and
an encouraging amount of cooperation secured, which is annually
increasing. Considering how large a part of the missionary
field is under the dominion of Europeans, this single result of
our past effi^rts is evidently of great consequence.

14. Lastly, and chiefly — souls have been converted to God
Here is the great point On this there can be no variety of

sentiment, as to the value or the fi*uit, nor dispute as to the
reality of its existence.

" Behold the midnight glory ; worlds on worlds.
Amazing pomp ! Redouble this amaze.
Ten thousand add. Add twice ten thousand more.
Then weigh the soul ! One soul outweighs them all,
And calls the astonishing magnificence
Of unintelligent creation, poor." Youho.

MBASina OF mSBIORAKT SUCCESS. 241

Converted heathen are already numbered by ieiu of ihausandi.
might fill many pages with proof of the sincerity of their con-
nrnon, firom the sacrifices they make, and the lives they live.
I examined diligently into this matter every where ; and have
Qopioitti details in my possession. But, adhering to the studied
brevity of the other parts of this work, two or three specimens
only will be f^ven. Few Christians are aware of the extent to
wliich such fiusts may be adduced. The various histories of
■nisions are AiU of them.

In the last report of the London Missionary Society, it ia

lilted that Narapot Singh, a native preacher, had by his at-

tMhment to Christianity, sacrificed, for a period of twenty-four

ynrs, an estate of eight thousand rupees per annum, making in

the whole one hundred thousand dollars. And this is ^ all his living.?

Fior the entire period, he has endured continual poverty and

toil Many of the Burman and Karen disciples have literalljn

'nfiered the loss of ail things ; " and it is believed that some

ittve died in consequence of their sufferings. At the village

of Mawbee, near Rangoon, a large number of Karens became

(^fstians, through the preaching of a native assistant, and en*

dared persecutions, which only fell short of taking life, for many

months ; having never seen a white missionary. I saw various

iudiriduals in Bengal and the Camatic, who w«re then suffering

banishment from all their relations, and many of the hardships

of poverty, in consequence of serving God. In Madagascar,

Christianity was for a while countenanced by Badama, the king,

Uid the missionaries had many seals to their ministry. At his

leath, the queen, who had always opposed her husband in this

hing, no sooner found herself in possession of supreme author-

ty than she began to exercise it for the destruction of Christiana

The missionaries were expelled. One after another, the promi-

lent disciples have been put to death. One of these, Rassalama^.

vas sentenced to death, and, for several successive days, was

aruelly flogged before the fatal day arrived. But her faith never

taggered, and she met death with a martyr's intrepidity. Her

onripanions were sold into perpetual slavery, and their property

confiscated ; but not one recanted. Rafaravavy, another distin*

piished woman, was for a long time kept in irons, and then sold

18 a slave.

After this, the remaining Christians began to assemble in the

light, at the house of Rafaralahy, where they read the Scripture,

conversed together on spiritual things, and united in prayer and

iraise. They were soon betrayed to the government, and Rafii-

YOim n, 21

242 MEASURE OF MISSIONART SUCCC9S.

ralahy, after lieing kept in irons two or three days, was taken to
the ]>lnce of execution. On his way, he spoke to tlie execu-
tioners of Jesus Christ, and how happy ]ie felt at the tiioiight of
seeing, in a few minutes, him who loved him and died for him.
At tlie place of execution, a few moments Xte'ing granted Jiifl%
at his re(piest, he offered up a fervent prayer for his persecuted
brethren, and commended his soul to Jesus. He then, with
l>erfect com])osure, laid himself down, and was immediately put
to death. He was twenty-five yeai*s of age, and of a respectable
fiimily. After this, the persecution was jiressed with rigor. The
government determined, if possible, to secure all the companiooB
of Rafaralahy. Several of them were seized, and afterwards
made their escape. Many incidents, showing the distress to
which tlie Christians were reduced, are related. A large num-
ber conceal themselves in the houses of friends, or in the forests,
numbers are sold to slavery, and some are in irons. The queen
proposed to put every Christian to death ; but some of her offi-
cers advised her agamst this, saying, " It is the nature of the re-
ligion of the whites ; the more you kill, the more the people will
receive it."

Such are the &cts, which might be multiplied to an indeiiDite
idxtent They leave no room to question the reality of the re-
ported conversions. Defections, indeed, often occur, to pain the
hearts of the missionaries ; but, though many have fallen tlirougb
strong drink, love of gain, and other temptations, I never heard
of one who was driven from Christianity by violence.

It is impossible to know the number of regenerated hea-
then, as the returns are not furnished from some missions
Two thousand have been baptized by missionaries connected
with Serampore, of whom six hundred are now alive and in
good standing. In the West Indies, connected with the Bap-
tist and Methodist missions, there are 69,000 communicants.
The number connected with the London Missionary Society is
6,439; with the Church Missionary Society, 1,514; whh the
English Wesleyan Missionary Society, 48,795, exclusive of
members in British America; with tlie English Baptist Mis-
sionary Society, 18,720 ; with the American Board of C. F. M.
2,600;* with the American Baptist Board, 1,900; with the
Moravian missions, 47,000. Some missions, for instance the

*' An extraordinary number of persons in (he Sandwich Islands have re-
cently become religious. The particular accounts have not yet reached tkis
country ; but it is supposed the number is not far from 5000 !

IDBASDUB or MISSIOIfART SUCCBBSi 943

Moraviaiiy do not require actual coDYersion to God as the term
of ehurch membership; so that we camiot calculate exactly ftom
fhear returns in this argument

From the best data we can obtain, we may safely estimate the
present number of converts, after deducting such as may be
nqppoBed to have been received on an outward profession mere-
Ijr, at mcM% than a hundred thousand.

In many cases, these are formed into churches, with pastors
ind deacons. The native preachers and catechists amount to
flUQre than a thousand. Many of these have received a good
education in mission schools. Some (and the class is increas-
ing) have become authors, and produced books, tracts, and
hymns, of great value. Let the reader pause and consider the
fiiets contained in these last four sentences ; for though they are
barely named, they are of great importance.

In some places, these churches have become so established
that if missionaries should retire, the cause would probably go
on* The Rev. M . Baker, of Madagascar, declared in an address
at Cape Town, several years ago, that there were *< not less than
five hundred natives, who had maintained a constant profession
of religion amidst persecution and danger." We have just seen
how, with equal constancy, they could die for the truth.

Some of these churches have already begun to contribute,
even in pecuniary ways, to the furtherance of tlie great work.
It is thus at the Sandwich Islands, in Burmah, and many other
stations. Even the poor Africans at Griqua town, contributed in
1836, to the funds of the Society, a hundred and thirty dollars,
and at Bethelsdor^ in the same year, four hundred and forty
dollars.

In addition to these thousands of converts, now shining as
lights in dark places, we must not forget the thousands who
have died in the faith. In the case of Serampore, out of two
thousand baptized, only six hundred survive. We ought, there-
fore,' probably to add another hundred thousand for converts
deceased.

It would be easy and delightful to rehearse the distinct narra-
tives of many who have crowned a life of evident piety by a
becoming death. To speak of hundreds or thousands of con-
verted heathen, sounds cold, when we think of the hundreds of
millions yet left to perish. But in tracing the history and reli-
gious experience of an individual, our impressions become dis-
tinct ; and to number even units seems an ample reward for all
we have done or given. Such as would taste this feast will find

)

M4 MBABumx or missioiiart succxm.

it largely spread out before them in the Moravian and Bapdrt
periodical accounts, the histories of missions, and the repwtB of
societies. Separate volumes are also published, containing tin
memoirs of many of these. He who knows the worth of tii
own soul, could not rise from the life of Krishna, Petumbei^
Abdool Meseeh, Asaad Shidiak, Afncaneer, Peng, Catharine
Brown, Karaimokee, &C., and retain enmity to the system cf
means which, under God, saved them from eternal deadi.

These glorious fruits are now safe in the gamer of God
Schwartz, Brainard, David, Schmidt, Carey, and a great com-
pany of missionaries, have their converts with them before the
throne. No apostasy, no temptations, no weakness, can OYer-
take them now. There they are, where we would go. Some
are there, to whose salvation we ourselves have ministered.
Soon we shall embrace them, not only in the blessedness of a
joint salvation, but in the delicious consciousness of having been
the instruments of their deliverance.

lif after such thoughts, we could come down again to mathe-
matical calculation, we might consider that the total number of
conversions, divided by the number of missionaries who fully
acquired the vernacular tongues, would give from three hun-
dred to four hundred converts to each! Can the ministry at
home reckon thus ? Truly the measure of missionary success
needs only to be closely scanned to become a theme of wonder,
rather than of discouragement.

VI. This discussion cannot properly close, without adverting
to the effects of the miasionory spirit on the chwrches at home,

I have held a telescope to direct the reader's attention to cir-
cumstances, in various parts of the heathen world, which, with-
out this aid, he might not notice. This task is resigned, not
because I have shown every thing, but because any one may now
go into further details at his leisure. A glance at the effect of
missions in our own country, will conclude my endeavors; and as
they lie open to the perceptions of every man, 1 will do little
more than mention the subject.

The formation of a missionary spirit, to the extent which now
prevails, is reward enough for all the labors and expense which
have been incurred. To a very important extent, ignorance,
prejudice, covetousness, and indifference have been overcome.
Experience is gained. Friends and supporters ai-e organized.
Thousands have awakened to the duty of spreading the gospel,
and will never give over. They will inculcate it upon their

mAsumjB OF mssioiiAiiT succbm. IMS

tidldraiy conYiDce their friends, and disarm objectors. The
ftie&dly host will continually midtiply. Contributions are not
BOW drawn forth by novel and affecting statements of hea-
then cruelties, but in many cases come up spontaneously, from
■imrces lying among the deepest springs of Christian action.

Objectors make this item no part of their estimate when they
declare that missions have failed. Had David done nothing
toward the temple, when he had formed the plan and secured
llie means? Was nothing done towai'd bringing civilization
and Christianity to these shores, when as yet the May-flower lay
in an English dock, and the resolved colony was commending
Its emlu7o enterprise to God ? Was nothing done toward our
independence, when the spirit of resistance had been spread
through the country, and the people resolved to be free ? The
thing is too plain to need words. A great work has unquestion-
ably been done, in bringing the church to its present state of
feeling. The spirit of missions has grown to adolescence, and is
daily acquiring strength : its implements and opportunities are
ready, and its training becoming daily more complete.

It is particularly to be considered that this spirit is not a mere
sadden impetus or direction, such as is sometimes transiently
given to public sentiment For forty yecara it has been growing,
slowly and soundly, amidst opposition, ridicule, reproach, and
manifold disadvantages. Never was there a revolution in human
sentiment more obvious and positive.

Formerly, the thought of sending the gospel to t Christ is scarcely perceptible. The heathen see that the chil-
dren have been regularly trained to the new faith. They know
that if our children were trained in the same manner by (har
priesthood, they would as easily become pagans. They attribute
the change, therefore, not to the superiority of our system, but to
the natural efiect of early education.

I am far from wishing the school system to be abandoned,
especially in Hindustan. A school has many advantages in
enabling a missionary to bring divine truth before his pupils ;
and a man whose heart glows with zeal, will find it an animating
field. The error seems to be, not in having schools, but in ex-
pending upon them a disproportionate measure of our means;
in expecting too much from them ; in not making them suffi-
cii'ntly religious; in establishing more than can be pro])erly
superintended ; in the indiscriminate reception of scholars ; in
employing heathen teachers ; and in trusting to science for the
overturn of idolatry.

Schools furnish an advantageous opportunity for the partial
employment of fresh missionaries, whose knowledge of the lan-
guage is insufficient for more direct eflbrts. But this very
deficiency in the language, must almost preclude religious influ-
ence. The plan now often pursued, is for a missionary or
his wife to superintend five, ten, or even twenty schools, taught
by hired pagans. These are visited once every few days, in the
cool of the morning; giving ten or fifteen minutes to each.

MODE OF CONDUCTING MISSIONS. 353

in some cases, they are visited once a month. The master
merely teaches reading and writing ; and that, too, in his own
inexpert, or perhaps ferocious manner. He is naturally sup-
posed by the scholars to understand our religion, and his not
receiving it has a pernicious influence. Qualified teachers are
80 few, that persons have sometimes been employed who open-
ly opposed Christianity. Secret counteracting influences, by
the master, are still more common. In schools patronized by
the British government, though taught by a missionary, it is
required that instruction in religion shall not be formally
introduced.

The question seems not to have received sufficient attention,
whether we should multiply schools, and teach mere rudiments,
to a great number, or restrict the number, and carry the educa-
tion to a high point I am in favor of the latter course. No
nation has become literary by universal instruction in reading
and writing. These confer no knowledge; they are only means
for acquiring and diffusing it In a country where the absence
of books, periodicals, and political fi^edom, preclude advance-
ment in after life, beyond the rudiments learned at school, these
acquirements will not be generally retained ; or if retained, are
of little use. With us, conunon schools bring our youth to the
stcurting-point^ and give to genius, where it exists, a chance for
advancement and honor. But where these leave a heathen
pupil, there, in ninety-nine cases out of a hundred, he stops ;
and soon begins to recede, for want of use for his knowledge.
Beside, the most extended system of such schools, which we can
hope to establish in the heathen world, can embrace, afler all,
but a very inconsiderable portion of the youth ; so that even the
argument for universality will not apply.

It seems to me, therefore, that the highest advantages of
schools are to be gained by gathering select children of pagans
into boarding-schools, and all the children of native converts
into day-schools, (which at most stations may be united,) and
carrying the education of these to a high point Such pupils
will be exempt from the dreadful pollutions of a heathen home,
and the innumerable associations which tend to nullify every
good influence. They become subject to continuous and sys-
tematic efibrts, which are impossible where the scholars are
often changing. Some of them are likely to become authors in
their own language, for which they will have qualification*
which foreigners can scarcely hope to attain.

Such schools give the missionary a paternal relationship te
VOL. II. 22

254 MODE OF CONDUCTING MISSIONS.

the child, and a probahility of securing his confidence aiid
attachment They furnish precious opportunities for the daily
inculcation of sacred truth. They form at once permaneBt
congregations and attached households ; opening access, at the
same time, to many parents. New missionaries could usefiiUf
assist, two or three hours a day ; and rather gain than lose time^
in learning the language. Scholars long trained in this manner,
could not but have a salutary influence on their parents, and be
the means of difliising many important truths. The systematic
control of their minds, and constant example of true fijnily
order, would counteract the danger, which exists in other schools^
of creating a contempt for parental knowledge and govemmeni,
without furnishing an adequate substitute, to prevent the e^
fects of filial disobedience. In every such school, one mis-
sionary at least, competent in the language, should devote his
whole time, and hold the salvation of the pupils as Ms promi-
nent aim.

In educating converts* particularly the younger ones, there can
scarcely be too much effort If knowledge is power, let us give
it to the truly good. Let us not compass sea and land to make
a proselyte, and then leave him to grope his way in ignoraDce,
perplexity, and error. Let us form his tastes, habits, studies,
and pursuits, upon the noblest principles of divine revelation.
Let us do all in our power to create an impressive superiority
on the part of such as bear the Christian name, and to aid them
in difliising light and peace.

2. At some stations, at least, less time might be devoted to
translations and tracts.

It is eminently desirable to perfect every tract and translation ;
but where an intelligible and tolerably correct one exists, the per-
fecting of it may thenceforth be made a by-business. There
will be diversities of taste, if no more, which will prevent any
production from suiting every scholar. But it is not found that
the last is always the best There have been printed seven
versions and revisions of the Malay Bible ; and a distinguished
missionary among that people assured me that the first, pub-
lished at Serampore, remains the best

It is not desirable that missionaries should in their first years
devote themselves to translation and authorship, even if there
be no Christian books in the language. To write and translate,
as exercises for themselves, is important ; but they should put
nothing to press till they have been years at their post, and have
revised their work many times. It would be well if every

MODE OF COKDUCTIlfG MISSIONS. 255

misaionaiy, qualified, by his early studies, to translate the Scrip-
turesy were to take some select portion, and occupy himself upon
it, at leisure moments, for eight or ten years ; or even his lifetime.
He might sketch two or three tracts, and keep them by him in
the same way. This, however, would not prevent the necessity
fbrsome individuals to make translations and authorship their
prominent employment

The anxiety for an immediate production of books has caused
the publication of Scriptures and tracts so iinpertect, as to be
almost, if not quite useless, and in particular passages quite
erroneous. To prove this, and at the same time show the sort
of errors to which I allude, 1 will give a few instances which
were mentioned to me, taken from distant and different versions.
John i. 1, ** In the beginning was the word, and the word was
with the Lord God Boodh, and the word was the Lord God
Boodh." Exod. iii. 2, *^ The Lord appeared unto him in a flame
of fire in the knot of a tree." Acts i. 8, ^ Ye shall receive the
power of life and death." Matt v. 3, ^ Blessed are the destitute of
life." 1. Cor. V. 6, " A little crocodile crocodileth the whole lump." !

When there are none of these mistranslations, there may be
such a want of idiomatic propriety, such an infusion of new
words, or such general obscurity, as to discourage, if not bewil-
der, the heathen reader. Such, it appears from Mr. Medhurst,*
is the case with Morrison's Chinese version, of which the con-
vert Lew Tse-chuen, as quoted by him, says, " I perceive there is
no unwillingness to accept the books, but, failing to comprehend
their meaning, they frequently throw the work aside." To the
same effect is his quotation from Choo Tih-lang, a Chinese tran-
scriber now in England. ^ Having perused the present transla-
tion of the Scriptures into Chinese, I find it exceedingly verbose,
— containing much foreign phraseology, so contrary to the usual
style of our books, that the Chinese cannot thoroughly understand
the meaning, and frequently refuse to look into it" Marshman's
version is greatly liable to the same objections.

It is a serious subject, and deserving the early attention of the
managers at home, as well as Biblical critics, how far our versions
should conform to the pompous and unchristian phraseology of
Eastern languages. The language of a superior to an inferior is
wholly different from that of an inferior to a superior. Shall tliis
diversity be followed in translations ? It is so in many of them,
and not so in others. In one Tamul version, the Virgin Mary is

* China, its State and Progpects, p. 443.

25H MODE OF CONDUCTmO MISSIONS.

always addressed as ^ worshipful." And instead of ^ said," &x, m
Gen. i. 3, it is << opening his divine mouth, he said, Let light ap-
jpear." In one version, "apostle" is rendered "royal messenger*
These idioms give a haughty aspect to the language of aposdes
and prophets, and a servility to those who address them. It wiH
he a question also whether we shall make two versions in some
languages, one high and literary, and one common and plain. ,'
Henry Martyn's Persian Testament is of the former kind, and t
though intelligible and acceptable to all the upper classes, ii f
wholly incomprehensible to vulgar readers. Rhenius's version ^
of the Tamul is intermediate, and has by some been objected to ^
as suitable for no class of society. p

Yet with all their imperfections, most translations have been !-
sufficiently good to convey a large amount of genuine truth; r
so that the expense has by no means been utterly wasted p
Thank God, the most important texts in the Bible are easUy ^
translated. It would probably be difficult to err in rendering
"He that believeth and is baptized shall be saved;" "It is a
faithful saying, and worthy of all acceptation, that Jesus Christ
came into the world to save sinners ; " " Except a man be bom
again, he cannot see the kingdom of God."

The value even of a good version of Scripture, is wholly over-
rated by such as suppose it to be as intelligible to heathen as our
Bible is to the unconverted. The case is far otherwise. Tlie
most intelligent pagan finds not only words, but facts, reason-
ings, and allusions, which he can no better understand than the
Ethiopian eunuch did the predictions concerning Christ He
has not so much preparation for understanding the Bible, as is
acquired by our children in the nursery. Beside, this want of
preparation is the littleness and debility of a heathen's mind,
which is alluded to, page 225. Things must be explained to
him, as to an infant. Let the language be never so plain and
idiomatic, he will rarely understand the subject, unless it be some
sitnple parable or narrative. Hence the king of Siam, after
hearing a Christian book read, threw it aside, saying, " Let the
teachers go on giving these books ; no man in my kingdom can
understand them."

As to tracts translated from the English, very few of them can
be of any service, except to some of the more advanced converts.
They all are constructed on the supposition that the reader
knows certain doctrines, or facts, which heathen do not know,
and take for granted, what a heathen does not grant They
aU involve some knowledge of Christianity, while the heathen

MODE OF COIIDUCTING IflSSIONS. SS7

reader may never have so much as heard of it before. Tracts for
the heathen must be vnitten for them ; and tliat by men who not
only know their modes of thinking, tlieir system of religion,
dieir habits, temptations, &C., but by such as have so far
learned the language as to think in it, and write it with idiomatic
accuracy.

The number of heathen who can read intelligibly, on subjects
not connected with trade and common things, is very small. This
point seems not to have excited sufficient attention ; and a few
efforts, lately made, lead to startling conclusions. Mr. North, of
the mission to Singapore, has made the most efficient investiga-
tion on this subject that I know of. He examined, personally,
the crews of many vessels trading to Singapore, from the other
ports of the peninsula, and the numerous islands of the China
Sea. Out of two thousand persons thus examined, he informed
me that he found but one could read with ease, and four others
who could spell out the sense with difficulty. The rest, though in
general able to read the characters, scarcely knew the sense of a
angle word These persons are not an inferior class, like Euro-
pean sailors, but are for the most part traders on their own ac-
count, and may be taken as a fair sample of the inhabitants of
their respective countries. The Malay population of Singapore
has scarcely a reader, except a mere handful, who had been
taught in the mission schools.* I have already spoken of the few-
ness of readers even in China. The Burraans, though a reading
people, as to the ability to pronounce the characters, are not gen-
erally able to read with understanding. In a late discussion of
another subject in the Friend of India, it is declared by the edi-
tor that not more than one million, out of the thirty millions of
Bengalees, can read. And this estimate is twice as high as is made
by some others. Mr. Trevelyan, admitting that there may be a
million, asks, ** And what sort of readers are this one million ?
How many of them understand what they read ? How many can
even pronounce fluently the mere words on a page they never saw
before ? Even Pundits and Munshees, and much more the com-
mon people, read with difficulty, stopping to spell words, and re-
peating over and over the last two or three words, while they are
studying out the next There are probably not five hundred persona

• In calling these a mere handful, I do not impeach the missionaries who
have for many years labored largely in this department. The truth is, it has
been found impossible to persuade many of the scholars to remain long enough
to acquire the art of reading.

22*

dS8 MODE OF CONDUCTING MIStlOirS.

in aU India not educated hy Europeans, who could take up a irans^
Hon, in their oum character, of any work in philosophy, morals, or re-
hgion, and read it extempore with understanding^*

Our ex})ectatioDs from the difTusion of Bibles and tracts appeir
extravagant, if we reason upon them in the abstract No school ^
teacher could hope to fiilfil his duty by shutting himself up in a
study, and sending out among his pupils elementary treatises
and cogent appeals. Cases of the benefit of Bible and tract dk-
tribution have occurred in sufficient numbers to warrant our
diligent continuance in this department of effi)rt, but not enough
to warrant our making it so prominent in our general system of
means. It is to be considered how few it has converted, com-
pared with the prodigious amount done in this way. Among
the Malays, for instance, who have had the vtrhole Bible, and
more than forty tracts, distributed among them by thousands,
for many years, I could not hear of a decided Christian on the
Peninsula. The avidity with which our books are received, is
not to be ascribed to a general and intense desire to know the
truth. The paper, the printing, the shape, and the color of the
book, make it as great a curiosity as a palm-leaf manuscript is to
us. A heathen missionary might give away any quantity of such
manuscripts in the streets of our cities, and the rush for them
would continue till they ceased to be curiosities.

We certainly do well to prosecute a lavish distribution in
countries like China and Japan, where missionaries are not ad-
mitted ; or like Burmah and Madagascar, where their tenure is
frail. But the utility in such cases consists chiefly in preparing
the way for personal effort ; and without its being thus followed
up, permanent and general benefit can hardly be expected.

3. There should be less preaching in English.

At a great proportion of our stations there are some who
speak our language ; and these, though but half a dozen, will
desire the ministrations of the Sabbath. But the missionary is
sent forth to heathen ; and he violates his engagement, if these
receive not the great bulk of his attentions. Many missionaries
are almost lost to the heathen in this way. These Europeans or
Americans know the system of salvation, and deliberately put
it away! To irreligious men of cultivated minds, common
preaching has no charms. It must either be so eloquent, as to
make them consent to hear unwelcome truths, for the pleasure
of the oratory ; or so neutral, as not to disturb their consciences.
A young man, who has practised little or none in his own coun-
try, will find regular weekly services consume too much time

Kom OF coKDUCTiNe nuioirs. 009

•ad strength. If he deal in undigested crudities, his little ttu-

tteiice will All of^ or no fruit ensue. Constant and close

Ipreaching to a very small auditory, unless managed as few have

iMIk to do, will give personal ofience, and inflict on the mission-

«iy both mental sufieriog and ofllcial embarrassment Beside, it

•I Beldom desiraUe for a misnonary to appear closely connected

wkh other fiireign residents. In general, the persons with whom

he becomes thus identified in the eyes of the people, live in open

violation of the Sabbath, and other scandalous vices ; and the

natives are likely to take their conduct as the fruits of Christian-

kjm It has ever been a difficulty with missionaries to make

the heathen understand that these people are Christians only in

name.

This is not the place to multiply arguments on any suliject
It will suffice to remark, that while a missionary should readily
render his spiritual services to nominal Christians when sick-
ness, death, or other occasions call for them ; and welcome to his
&mily worship and expositions such as may be willing to attend,
Us proper business is to go after the lost ones, who have never
known Xpe way of peace. To these he is sent by those who
fbmish his support Where it is prosier to maintain an English
service, there should be sent a person adapted to the work, who
should make this his chief business, and whose health should
not be worn down, or his mind distracted, by studying the ver-
nacular. His support should be expected in great part from his
auditory, and only such sums voted by the Missionary Board, as
may be contributed for this purpose.

4. Less effort should be spent, for the present at least, on
periodicals.

Nearly every principal station, such as Calcutta, Bombay,
Madras, Malacca, Canton, Greece, &c., has one or more periodi-
cals, published or edited by missionaries. It must be evident,
Ibat the getting up of these is attended with far more labor, than
similar works in our own country, both from manifold inconve-
niences and the fewness of writers. A serious amount of mis-
vionary energy is therefore expended in this way, even on the
SDpposition that subscribers, other than missionaries, are suffi-
ciently numerous to cover the mechanical expense. But if
these periodicals do not support themselves, much less pay the
salaries of editors, or if most of the subscribers are missiona-
ries, they cost the church, as a whole, too much, both in money
and men.

With one or two exceptions, these periodicals are in the Eng-

900 MODE OF C0in>UCTIlTO MISSIOHS.

lish IftDguage, and are intended to afiect English and Americans.
They contain theological and missionary controversies, general
literature, philology, news, translations of pagan authors, and
other matter, which, to a great extent, mijght with advantage be
inserted in existing periodicals at home, or in some one or two
established for this separate purpose. They might thus be even
more extensively distributed among missionaries than they an
now ; for it is in general easier to send parcels from home to
each station, than to send them from any one station to all the
others.

If this amount of labor and expense be continued, it should
be by the expressed will of the churches, just as contributiona
are now designated for education, for the distribution of BiUee
and tracts, for the support of children, or for general missionaiy
purposes. Funds to support editors and writers for periodicab,
might be made a distinct account If the amount of contribu-
tions for this object will sustain these periodicals, and brethren
arise who deem it their province to go abroad and edit them,
no one can object The department of service is both use-
ful and honorable ; and some of the present works might prob-
ably be continued with advantage. But we must not, with our
present small force, bestow disproporUoncde time and money
upon it, nor allow the friends of missions in this country to be
expecting conversions in proportion to the number of laborers,
without understanding how those laborers are employed.

5. In reducing languages to writing, the Roman letters only
should be used.

The curse of Babel has been greatly increased by the variety
of characters mankind have employed in expressing articulate
sounds. Some of these are more philosophical and convenient
than others, but none are comparable to ours. I cannot so
extend this head as to argue the whole case, but will barely
name a few reasons which go to show why our alphabet should
be preferred.

Oriental alphabets are written with great diflSculty. Many
missionaries never become able to write their new language;
and many, with all their pains, are so awkward and slow at it, as
to prefer to employ a native hand on all occasions, during their life.

They are written at best very slowly. It may safely be
affirmed, that it requires five hours for a missionary to write in
the native character what he would Avrite in one in his own.
Thus four years out of five, of time spent in writing, is lost!
The most expert native Bengalee writers have been found, by

MODS or coKDucTiHe Mistioiri. 981

Mqperiment, to require three times as loDg to write a page in
tfieir own character, as it does to write the same on the Roman
IjfBtem* Any man can see how this would operate on the pro-
gteflB of arts, sciences, literature, manufactures, and reUgicm, in
kaMLs where all are to be begun. Should we, who are to raise
op readers and writers for half the world, entail upon them, and
■H their posterity, miserable alphabets of a thousand dlfierent
kinds, ¥^en, with the same labor, we can give them our own ?

Oriental alphabets proceed from line to line, without any
prominent mode (often without any mode) of marking emphatic
^rords, proper names, quotations, pauses, accents, or even of
ieperating words from one another. How would an English
feeder be puzzled in reading a page thus put together, and how
likely to be led wholly astray ! This argument alone should
weigh against many objections, when it is considered how im*
portant it is to avoid every possible mode of misapprehension,
ibr natives reading books on a subject so new and strange, and
iR^ich inevitably contain many words they have never seen
before.

In writing these characters there is often no standard. There
being no other established form of the letters, than as printed,
and this form, in general, being so difficult and slow, each man
alters to suit himself^ when writing in haste. Hence the writing
of one, is often scarcely legible to another, or even to himself
after the lapse of a few months. In our language, the written
and printed characters are so alike, that all who read one, can
read the other ; yet the former requires but one fifth of the time
consumed by the latter.

That our alphabet is competent to the expression of any lan-
guage, is proved by the number and diversity of those already
80 written ; viz. English, Welsh, Irish, Gennan, Danish, Dutch,
Swedish, French, Italian, Portuguese, Spanish, Basque, Catalo-
nian, Malay, Bengalee, Hindustanee, Malagasse, Asamese, Mah-
ratta. New Zealand, several languages of Africa, the South Sea
Islands, the South American dialects, and probably others.
Except the Cherokee, for which a native invented letters, all the
translations and tracts which have been printed for the Ameri-
can aborigines, are in the Roman character, and generally, if not
always, without diacritical marks; and certainly words more
difficult to spell and pronounce are not found on earth. The
inference is perfectly safe, that if these languages, in every part
of the earth, and with every variety of articulation, can be ex-
pressed in our alphabet, so may all others. The Roman Catholie

362 MODE OF coirDucTmo Missioirs.

missioDaries employ them even for the Chmese, Japanese,
Siamese, and Burman.

The difficulties, inconsistencies, and oflen absurdities, of our
orthography form no objection to the use of oiu* letters. So &r
as modem missionaries are concerned, these anomalies are
avoided. English words are spelled after the fashion of the
different languages from* whence they are derived ; but in con-
structing an orthography for an entire language at once, a pe^
fectly uniform system can be always adopted.

Another great objection to these alphabets is the expense they
involve, in furnishing the nations with the word of God. A
good font of our type, of the size of this, embracing both upper
and lower case letter, and all the variety of points, &c., costs
about four hundred dollars. There ai*e three sizes of Burman
letter, and each font cost, including the support of a missionary
to superintend the work, at least two thousand dollars. Tlie
proportion is not very difierent in most other Eastern tonguea

There are probably foiu* thousand languages yet to be fur-
nished with the Scriptures. If, in doing this, we resolve all into
two thousand various alphabets, which, perhaps, is hardly possi-
ble, and give three sizes of type to each alphabet, it will cost
tioelve ndUions of dollars ! Our type, of three different sizes for
the same languages, would cost but two million four hundred
thousand dollars. When done, many of them, such as Persian,
Nagari, Arabic, &c., are so formed that the types are necessarily
and constantly breaking ; making a still greater difference in the
cost of books. The small strokes above and below (see speci-
men page, Persian and Arabic characters) are not sustained by
the body of the type, but run out, and can scarcely bear the force
of the press.

But the first cost of an Oriental font is as nothing compared
to the subsequent expenses it entails; chiefly on account of its
large size. It requires from three to six times the expense of
press work, and the same for paper, binding, transportation, &c
Judson's Bible is in four large octavos ; and yet the type is scarcely
half the size in which Burmans commonly Avrite. I am satis-
fied, every thing considered, that the use of Roman letter would
be a saving of seven tenths of all the money to be spent in
missionary printing.

The question, then, is not only philological. Grant all that
the warmest advocates of Oriental letters could aflirm; nay,
admit for them a great superiority over ours; it comes back
to a question of dollars and cents. The whole number of Ian-

MODE OF CONDUCTIITG MISSIONS. ^63

giiages which contain the word of God is less than a hundred,
and about a hundred more have portions of it The people of
some of those languages have not yet been supplied in the pro-
pcHtion of one family in a thousand. Here, then, are thousands
of fonts of type to procure, thousands of translations to make,
and myriads of Bibles to print; beside rousing up nominal
Christendom to supply itself. While the means for accomplish-
ing all this are so inadequate in the best modes, how can we
honestly pursue a system which so vastly augments the diffi-
culty ? Lideed, except we use the Roman alphabet, the supply
of the Scriptures to mankind is indefinitely postponed, and
perhaps rendered impracticable.

Whenever, in giving letters to a tribe that never had any, we
adopt those of some adjacent nation, rather than our own, we
incalculably abridge the benefit to the people, as well as inflict
on the church an intolerable and useless expense. When a
nation, like the Chinese, Hindus, or Burmans, have a vmtten
language, and books, and schools, of their own, we must adopt
their characters for some of our books. But it has been found
expedient in Hindustan to teach Bengalee, Hindee, &c., in the
Roman character. Dictionaries and translations have been so
published ; and it is not certain but that, even in such a country,
the use of the native alphabets may be wholly superseded.

Against all the reasons for preferring the Roman alphabet, 1
know of no respectable objection. In all the Avorld, the mass of
readers are to be raised up by efiTorts yet to be made ; and they
may as easily be taught in one character as another ; nay, far more
easily in the Roman than any other. There is no valuable lit-
erature in any pagan language to be displaced by a new charac-
ter. On the contrary, the rendering obsolete of the mass of
impurity, error, and absurdity now existing, is a powerful argu-
ment in favor of the Romanizing system. By teaching through
the medium of our alphabet, we shut out fi-om the pupil, and
gradually render obsolete, the mass of abominations now con-
stituting the literature of such nations. We would thus avoid
several of those evils which now attend upon our schools, and
which have been mentioned under that head. To get rid, by
any process, of the stupendous obstruction now presented by
pagan Uterature, would be a magnificent achievement.

6. The recent plan of sending missionary physicians, should
be very sparingly prosecuted.

It may be that a sense of failure in regard to direct evangelical
labors, or a love of novelty, renders popular the sending out of

26i MODE OF COIVDUCTINO MISSIOlfS.

physiciana Many are already in the field ; and firom yarious &
rections the call is made, ^Send us out accomplished physiciamL*
For some fields, it is avowed, that no others are wanted at first

Or the hope may be, to gain respect and confidence, and thai
open a door for Christianity. But Christianity needs no sach
usher. We are pointed to the miracles of Christ and the apoe*
tle& But these were for conviction and proo( not for attne-
tiveness or insinuation. Hence they were not all of healings
Some of them inflicted death, others blindness. They widk-
ered fig-trees, destroyed swine, or struck down enemies. To
assert that we need a substitute for miracles will not comport
with the received doctrine that miracles have answered their
end, and passed away. If those of the first age are still suffi-
cient proo^ why seek a substitute ? If the immediate effects of
miracles are now necessary, we must ^ ask, and we shaU receive'
power to work them.

It is not clear that a physician, practising gratuitously among
the heathen, opens a door for his missionary brother. It may
even tend to throw him into the shade, and prejudice his use-
fiilness. One may be admired and patronized, while the other
is regarded as a mere supernumerary. He may acquire per-
sonal esteem and confidence ; but how this is transferred to his
preaching and proselyting brother, to Christianity as a system, or
to successors, is not plain. The cause and efiect do not seem to
correspond.

The religion of the heathen is every where a religion of merit
and demerit Of disinterested benevolence he knows nothing,
till he is made to understand it by the cross of Christ. All the
labors of a missionary, which appear meritorious, are regarded as
efforts to improve his own condition, now or hereafter. If the
physician, by intimacy with his missionary brethren, by giving
of tracts, &c., give cause to suspect that his real object is to
introduce Christianity, he incurs as much jealousy as his breth-
ren, whose primary business is to make direct evangelical efibrts.
"In vain is the net spread in sight of any bird." U' lie shows no
desire to introduce and recommend Christianity, how can he be
paving the way for his evangelical brethren ?

Extended and gratuitous medical services may have the in-
jurious effect of conferring upon the mission the appearance of
opulence. The supply of medicines obviously involves great
expense. The heathen sees them given away profusely, every
day, to scores of utter strangers, from whom no remuneration or
service is accepted. It is natural that he should infer that the

MODE OF CONDUCTUTG WSSIONS. 965

individual and private charity of the physician, is not competent
Id such expenditure. He may suspect the hand of a foreign
government, preparing for future encroachments. He will cer-
tainly suspect somdhingf though his fear be no more rational than
that which has prevailed very extensively in Burmah, that when
a certain number of disciples are obtained, we mean to take
them home and eai them !

It should not be forgotten that the history of missionary phy^
aicians, from FeUx Carey till now, contains many discouraging
ftcts. It shows the danger of being drawn away to posts of
pagan honor ; or making shipwreck of Christian character ; or
becoming mere physicians.

* It appears to me that an afiectionate and judicious missionary,
male or female, with a few well-known medicines, good books
written for family use, and some experience, will be able to do
all that ought to be done in this line, in most places. Mrs. Wade
and Mrs. Hancock have practised extensively, and with great
success. Such a mode is as well calculated to impress natives
with the benevolence of Christians, though it may not so as-
tonish them with the superiority of Europeans.

7. Every unnecessary expense in the mode of living should^
be studiously avoided.

The unavoidable difference between the missionary and the
natives, in most cases, is very great Native assistants seldom
receive more than a tenth or fifteenth of the salary of a mission-
ary. Rulers and princes, at some stations, are unable to live as
the missionaries do, even where considerable sacrifices are made,
and where a style of living is adopted, which many of the con-
tributors at home would regard as involving positive and serious
hardships.

The difficulty is aggravated, where the missionary aims at the
style of genteel Europeans around him. It is altogether undo-
arable to see carved mahogany sofas, covered with crimson silk,
mahogany book-cases, engravings, cut-glass, silver forks, &c., in
the house of a missionary ; the house itself resembling our hand*
some country-seats. Such a mode of living unavoidably imposes
great restraint on the approach of natives. However accessible
the missionary may hold himself) the poor inquirer will scarcely
venture into such premises; or, if he do, will not b&able to over-
come an oppressive sense of inferiority, and perhaps intrusion.
Even in Burmah, where no missionary so much as approaches
this style of living, I have seen inquirers listen eagerly for a few

VOL. II. 23

5266 MODE OF CONDUCTING BOSSIONS.

moments, and then become absorbed in admiration of the fluted
leg of a table, or the joints of a chair.

Several missionaries have confessed to me that, on their first
arrival in the East, they were shocked at the style in which they
found their brethren living. Yet they had been carried away by
t)ie current And so, generally, Avill be their successors. A man
does not like, on his first arrival, to set up for a reformer. He
feels as though he should have more experience, and knowledge
of the country. But when, after a few years' residence, he is
convinced that another mode is preferable and practicable, be
discovers that to attempt a change will not only involve him in
difficulties with his brethren, but will require changes in his own
modes, which neither he nor his wife may have strength of mind
to accomplish.

It is not necessary to adopt the costume, or all the customs of
the natives ; nor is it in general possible for the missionary to live
so cheaply. To do either, would abridge usefulness, and hazard
health. Many things are absolute necessaries to one, which to
the other seem highly luxurious. But this difierence should not
be increased by the use of superfluities deemed genteel and
suitable at home. Cheap fabrics make raiments as truly coiU'
fortable as costly ones; and ornaments and embroideries cer-
tainly add no comfort Plain furniture, made by the natives or
himself, should be preferred to that which is elegant, even if the
latter could be had for nothing. And in erecting a house, no
object should be regarded but health and convenience.

The example of a missionary should tend to elevate the people
in temporal things, and spread a love of neatness and order.
But expensiveness defeats this result If the materials of our
refinements and conveniences are too costly, the natives cannot
have them. I know certain missionaries who have their sofas
and bedsteads made of bamboo, at an expense not exceeding ten
cents each. Their people are thus taught cleanliness and com-
fort, and cease to repose on the floor. The same individuals
dress in the cheapest fabrics, and have brought their people to
possess suitable changes of raiment, instead of wearing one filthy
garment till it could be worn no more.

A great superiority of living, on the part of the missionary,
will almost certainly excite envy — a feeling tending more than
any other to obstruct usefulness. "Who can stand before
envy?" A minister in our own country could scarcely hope
for success if there existed a propoitionate disparity between

MOUX OF COIVDUCTING MISSIONS. 967

bim and his people. In places where there are many Euro-
peans, the evil will not be so much felt, if the missionary live in
fiur less style than they. In these places only, have I seen such
modes of living as have been just nanjed. And if these very
houses are compared, not with those of the natives, but those of
Europeans, they will generally appear to be as much humbler
Uian those, as ministers' houses, in this country, are humbler than
their wealthy parishioners. In the remote stations, a missionary
should take a still humbler mode. The natives cannot know
what luxuries are enjoyed with us, even by tlie poor. They just
compare the missionaries with themselves, and can scarcely
associate the idea of self-denial with a mode of living which so
greatly transcends their own.

The efiect on the missionary himself is injurious. His anticipa-
tions had comprised great and unavoidable self-denial in regard
to house, food, climate, and other bodily comforts. He is, there-
fore, in danger of habitually endeavoring to make this self-denial
as small as possible. Those who have preceded him will ad-
duce arguments or excuses with regard to health, respectability,
&c. Their example, the wish to preserve peace, and his early
habits, will all tend to carry him on to the very position, which, on
first seeing occupied by others, had shocked his feelings. He
is then no longer the man he was, and intended to be. His
conscience is either smothered or troubled ; his success is hin-
dered ; and there is great danger that his early devoted ness and
hope of usefulness may subside into formality and quiescence.

The blessed Master is the great pattern of a missionary. But
he did not endeavor to live in a condition resembling, as near as
possible, that which he had left Nor should the missionary,
sojourning amid degraded heathen, seek to retain as far as possi-
ble the refinements and gratifications of his own land. Let him
renounce them, in fact, as, on his knees, when he gave himself to
this work, he renounced them in anticipation.

Beside the effect of an appearance of luxury on the natives,
every useless expense should be avoided on the ground of its
raising a barrier against the universality of our operations.
Though money will probably be raised in greater amount, and
with greater facility, yet it must be remembered how small a
body the Protestants of Europe and America are, compared with
the entire human race, and how great is the work to be done.
Presuming that, in every country, native pastors should be raised
up in sufficient numbers to perform the entire labor of evan-
gelists, we still need thousands of missionaries to make begin-

968 MODI OF COin>UCTING XIBSIOire.

ningB in every tribe, to prepare these native pastors, to make
books and translations, establish schools, &c

As our societies grow old, vndows and children multiply;
and soon very serious sums will be required for these. As an
exemplar, we may advert to the Moravians, who have longest
maintained modem missions. Nearly all the contributions from
their own body are absorbed on matters which refer to the past;
and their present missionary work is sustained by the contribu-
tions of other Christians. By the last annual report I can obtain,
it appears that their receipts, from all sources, are about £11,000;
about half of which is from their own community.

Total expenses for all stations. £6100

Paid also vnthin the year —

to 20 retired and disabled 7 £g|g ig i a

missionaries S

to 96 widows 334 16 7

education of 95 missionary } iacv% n a
children S

20 boys and 11 gu*ls apprenticed. .... 1629
Contingencies. 898 4900 13 5

£11000 13 5

It might give rise to unwarrantable surmises, if^ in a work so
crowded with facts, directly and indirectly connected with mis-
sions, nothing should be said of the salaries received by mis-
sionaiies ; especially while speaking of their modes of living.
Nor am I concerned to avoid that subject But the reader will
bear in mind several considerations — 1. That, in preceding chap-
ters, I have borne full testimony to the purity and zeal of mis-
sionaries as a body. 2. By far the larger part of them endure
serious privations as to modes of living, and all of them endure,
in other respects, what few Christians are willing to encounter.
3. Though their income may far transcend the poor semi -civil-
ized or perhaps barbarous tribes around them, it falls far short
of what Europeans of similar education and talents command,
in the same places, and their mode of living is proportionally
humble. 4 Those of them whose style of living has just been
mentioned, as in my opinion unsuitable, do but copy numerous
ministers, and still more numerous private Christians, in our
own country, who live in costly houses, and see no harm in using
just such articles as have been named. 5. It is certainly too

MODS OF COMDUCTING MISSIONS. 909

much to expect that an appointment as a missionary should, as
by a charm, at once raise a man to a fervor of piety, contempt
of earth, courage in dissenting from custom, and readiness to
endure privations which none of his church at home have at*
tained, and for which he has had neither training nor example.
The difficulty can only be met by the adoption of stricter systems
of expenditure by all Christians at home and abroad. Missiona-
ries will carry abroad just that sort and degree of piety they have
been trained to at home. 6. The chaplains of the East India
Gompany receive 775 rupees per month, and rank as majors, with
fiill retiring pension at the end of the term of service, which, I
believe, is twenty-two years. There are ninety chaplains, whose
salaries and places of worship cost the Company annually
438,000 dollars. This last statement is made to constitute a
standard of comparison by which tlie salaries of the missiona-
ries may be measured.

The English Baptist Missionary Society pay, in Hindustan,
about 200 rupees per month, for a family, without allow-
ances. In large towns, a very humble house costs from fifty
to eighty rupees per month. One of these brethren stated to me
that his annual expenses for medicine and medical attendance
averaged 250 rupees. The missionaries of the Scotch Greneral
Assembly receive, in Calcutta, 400 nipees per month, to cxyyer
every thing. Missionaries from the London Missionary Society,
at the Cape of Grood Hope, receive £100 per annum for a family,
without allowances, except to such as reside in Cape Town. In
large cities of India, this society pays sometimes double this
amount In the South Sea Islands, the allowance for a family
is but £75. The English General Baptist Missionary Society pay
their missionaries at Orissa about 1200 rupees per annum, for
a family, without allowances. A missionary from the Caspian
and Black Seas informed me, that the salaries there were
£80 for a married couple and family. A self-supported unmar-
ried missionary from Patna, in Bengal, informed me that his
expenses at that place were £70 per annum.

Whether the English Wesleyan Society pay fixed salaries,
I have no means of knowing ; but fi-om the only report of that
society I have at hand, (1835,) it appears that, in the Madras dis-
trict, five missionaries, four native assistants, the passages home
of two missionaries, and grants to schools, cost £2116. In Cey-
lon, nine missionaries, twelve native assistants, grants to school^
and the return passage of a family, cost £6032. In Sierra
Leone, three missionaries cost £286 ; and in New South Wales,

23*

S70 MODE OF COIVDUCTINO MISSIONS.

a station with three missionaries cost £701. The Am. Board of
Commissioners for Foreign Missions have not fully adopted the
system of fixed salaries, having generally allowed each family
to expend what is requisite. In Southern India, they pay a mar-
ried couple £150 per annum, with allowances for children and
house rent Missionaries in the East from tlie American Baptist
Board, have 100 Company rupees per month for a married couple,
and allowance for children, house rent, medical expenses, and
travelling.

8. There should he more direct preaching of the word, pub-
licly and from house to house.

Of all parts of his work, direct preaching looks most attractive
to the missionary on leaving home, and becomes in general most
repulsive in the field. One of the best missionaries now alive
remarked that there was nothing so difficult for him to resist as a
repugnance against coming in contact with the natives ! This
is the grand object of those who design to devote themselves to
foreign service. To sit beneath some friendly shade, imparting
to heathen the words of eternal life, is their beau ideal, their en-
rapturing anticipation, their expected reward, for leaving friends
and home. But when they approach the reality, they find the
romance of this hope turned into the substantial material for
disgust, weariness, and despair.

Sophisms, absurdities, false reasonings, extreme ignorance,
malicious opposition, unworthy suspicions, and inveterate preju-
dices, must be perpetually encountered. These are rendered
still more formidable, for the first few years, for want of a profi-
ciency in the language, and a knowledge of the national re-
ligion and literature. To teach school, to study, to translate,
to survey new fields, &c., have none of these disagreeable
concomitants, and are not so totally at variance with previous
habits and feelings. They have the charm, too, of promising
evident and immediate fruit; and of seeming to prepare the
way for successors.

Thus the highest self-denial required of a missionary is in that
very part of his work where he thought he should want none.
He is unprepared for the demand, and in too many cases Lb
turned aside to collateral pursuits.

This is an age in which the proper ministry of the word is in
danger of being undervalued. 'It is an age of invention and
activity, in religious as well as common matters, and the mecha-
nism of Christianity is in danger of transcending the simplicity
of the Scripture model, or at least of attracting superabundant

MODC OF COlfDUCTlNG msSfOITS. 271

•tIentioiL One eminent minister calls infcmi-schoaU *^ the railroad
to the millennium." Some declare preaching to be ** the smallest
part of a minister's duty." Others affirm that conversions among
the heathen are not to be expected, till they are enabled to un-
derstand the evidences of divine revelation, and, therefore, that
'^^diools are the grand means of converting the heathen." The
same sentiments are rung in the ears of a missionary by his
countrymen abroad. He has their countenance in schools,
translations, &c; but if he ** preach the gospel" in high- ways
and by-ways, he often incurs the imputation of fenaticism and
folly. Every temptation is thus offered to slight the proper
ministry of the word, and give weak faith a resting-place on
human schemes.

It is often remarked that the apostles did not resort to schools.
Bibles, and tracts, because the art of printing was not then in-
vented ; that learning was more diffused ; &c But it must be
sacredly remembered, that the Lord gave his apostles a system
of means not founded on the then state of society in that part
of Asia, but for all possible conditions of society, in all the world,
to the end of time. It is a system founded on the nature of reli-
gion and the nature of man ; and no changes of outward condi-
tion will warrant us to invent another.

All modes of doing good should undoubtedly have a place in
our system of means ; but let us have a care, lest we disparage,
or make subordinate, that which is of our Lord's own appoint-
ment, and which, above all others, should engage our energies.
^By the foolishness of preaching," it pleases God to save men.
It has always been the grand instrument of conversion. We
must always rely upon it as such. Other services demand a por-
tion of time, and in a proper division of labor, where there are
several missionaries, some one brother may take one of these as
bk department But, as a general rule, the first object and
business of each, is strictly ministerial service. President Way-
land, in his address to missionaries leaving Boston in July, 1834,
insists on this point ^ Nor is it enough that you be laborious ;
your labor must be exclusive ; it must be devoted in singleness
of heart to the conversion of souls to Christ This work is surely
of itself extensive enough to occupy all your time, and all your^
talents ; and manifestly no other can vie with it in importance.
You go not abroad to be linguists, nor lexicographers, nor bota-
nists, nor philosophers, nor statesmen, nor politicians, but am-
bassadors of Christ Remember, we always expect an ambassa-
dor to keep entirely aloof from all entanglements with the affairs

S73 MODE OF COimCCTINO MISSIONS.

of the parties to which he is sent, and devote himself exclusively
to the interest of the party by which he is commissioned. I do
not say that these inquiries are not important ; I only say that
they are not yoiir duty. Like Nehemiah, you are doing a great
work, and you cannot come down."

Of the same opinion was Swartz, who reckoned that he had
been the means of converting two thousand persons ; and of
Brainard, who also gathered many souls. The following ro-
marks by a distinguished Baptist minister, now living in Edin*
burgh, seem full of piety and good sense: —

" Much have we heard, indeed, in modem times, of the noble
invention of printing, and much respecting the power of educa-
tion; and I do not imagine that any candid reader, who has
proceeded thus far, can suppose that the writer is indisposed to
give to each its own appropriate place. At the same time, be
conceives that they may not only be perverted, but prevented from
doing that good which they otherwise might accomplish. For ex-
ample, if they be permitted to occupy that place in our esteem and
expectation, which belongs to a divine and sovereign appoinimtiiy
tlien they may not only become as chaff* when compared to the
wheat, but awaken the jealousy of Him who will not give bis
glory to another. Our employment of education only, and with
all the energy which the art of printing has given to it, may turn
out to be nothing more than giving activity to the powers of the
mind, without directing and controlling their movements.

"Education will humanize and improve, in most instances; but
to save from ultimate destruction, properly speaking, never was
within its province, and never will be. Yet since the time in
which many have been roused to see its necessity, there has
been a phraseology often used respecting it by no means war-
rantable. Education, but above all, scriptural education, will
do much. There will always be an undescribable distance
between a people so favored, and any other left without such
means. But if we ex^iect more from it than it has ever pro-
duced, and above all, if we apply to it the language furnished to
us in the Scripture, and which is there exclusively employed
with reference to an institution of God's own sovereign appoint-
ment, we may be left to witness the impotence of education,
instead of its power. Hence we have read of the system of
some one of these educational societies, being adapted for the
regeneration of Ireland ; and the terms employed in Scripture
to the laborers in the vineyard of God, have been unsparingly
employed by religious people to the exertions of schoolmasters,

MODI OF CONDUCTING MISSIONS. 273

those who superintend tbem. This is not merely incorrect,
bait it is unwise and unwarrantable. Every one knows, that, in
aH such cases of agency, every thing depends upon the expecta-
ticHis and intentions of the agent ; but the language referred to
is teaching us to expect from him, what, in a thousand instances,
the agent neither intends or expects himself. The schoolmaster
may have gone abroad, and, if a man of principle, will do great
good ; but to apply to him or his efforts the language of Sacred
Writ, which regards another order of men and another exercise,
is calculated to injure the work of his hands, as well as blind
our own minds with respect to another and a higher duty." *

While 1 am indulging in quotation, 1 will add the following,
from a distinguished missionary — Melvill Home, who puts the
following words into the mouth of an objector, in the shape of
an apostrophe to the << Lord of the harvest." ** If thou wilt force
U8 to cultivate this unpromising field, do not think of sending us
out immediately, but let schoolmasters go to receive the first fire,
and teach the little children reading and writing, and then will
we go and enter into their labors ; for the experience of ages
has taught us, that where preaching of the gospel makes one
Christian, education makes ten. Hence, instead of preaching
first to the parents, and then establishing schools for the educa-
tion of the children, as the apostles did, (who knew that the
sword of the spirit was of heavenly temper, an instrument into
which the Grod of glory had wrought all his attributes, we,
having lost the art of using it, and that arm which gives it
the demonstration of the Spirit and of power,) we go to work
another way, by educating children first; and many are of
opinion that the best way of enlightening, is by putting the
moon in the sun^s sphere, and having children to instruct their
parents, rather than parents to teach their children ! "

Preachers must not be reluctant to itinerate. It will not
be necessary, except among a few tribes, to dispense with a set-
tled home, and to wander with a wandering fiock. Still, few
missionaries should confine themselves at home. There are
jungles, small islands, and pestilent districts, accessible to for-
eigners only for a few months in the year, which can only be
reached by itinerants. There are advantages too, in all places,

* Anderson's '^ Ireland without ihe Ministry of the Word in her native
Language." '' The Domestic Constitution," so largely quoted from by Jay,
ID his Family Monitor, and republished in this country under the title of Book
tor Parrats," is by this author.

S274 MODS OF coin>ncTiNO lossioirs.

peculiar to such itineracies. There is upon the missionary ao
employed, a benign and impressive aspect of disinterested
benevolence, not easily misconstrued. His privations, inconve-
niences, dangers, and exertions convince even the heathen of
his love of souls. He honors them by the condescension iuid
confidence with which he eats the food they prepare, and sleeps
on the mat they spread for him. He becomes acquainted with
native character, where it has not been modified by foreign influ-
ence, and is thus assisted both to preach and to prepare tract&
He has opportunities for calm and repeated conversations with
individuals at their own home. He escapes the pestilent pres-
ence of ungodly nominal Christians. The circumstances of his
own superior living, are not present to do injury.

Not for a moment would I countenance that gadding and
discursive spirit which entices men to leave their sphere ; nor
that romance which loves to visit distant and celebrated places;
nor that love of fame which is gratified by being able to send
racy journals to the magazines. It can be of little use to
scatter far and near seed which neither we nor others can water.
The itineracy should for the most part be performed within a
given limit, visiting the same places again and again, as the
apostles did.

Preaching must be maintained in contradistinction to con-
versation and disputing. I know that it caimot always be such
preaching as we have at home. Questions must be permitted,
objections occasionally answered, explanations made, and much
of our own formality dispensed with. But it must be legitimate
preaching. The heathen are very glad to dispute ; and do it in a
very wearisome, provoking, and often subtle manner. When
we enter into their sophistries, and recondite arguments, we
make Christianity contend with the intellect, instead of the con-
science, and our great advantage is lost. Paul's disputings in tlie
school of Tyrannus are quoted. But it should be remembered
that diuXoyo^ievog, (dialogomenoSj) here rendered "disputing," is
the very word used of other occasions where pros and cons
were not thought of; such as " Paul was long preaching;^'' Acts
XX. 9 ; " lie reasoned in tlie synagogue every Sabbath-day,'' Acts
xviii. 4 ; " lie preached unto them, ready to depart on tlie morrow,"
Acts XX. 7 ; " He reasoned of righteousness," &c.. Acts xxiv. 9.
Missionaries will sometimes be obliged to dispute ; and so were
the apostles. But they are destitute of many advantages enjoyed
by the latter. Those disputes were with men who believed
in the Old Testament, or who held great principles in common

MODE OF CONDUCTING MISSIOIfS* 375

with themselves. They weie to prove, to persons who expected a
Messiah, that Jesus was tliat Christ ; or were based upon premises
which the antagonists, or their own poets, fully admitted. So
did our Savior sometimes dispute ; but we have numerous cases
where he dexterously avoided foolish questions or philosophical
subtilties. He parried where he might have triumphed, and
chose the more immediate, if not the only avenue, to conviction.

What has been gained by the repeated triumphs of speculative
theology over science, politics, and heresy ? Over and over the
battle has been fought, consuming whole lives, and filing up
whole libraries. Over and over have iniidels, heretics. Papists,
and Jews, been defeated. But new champions rise. The old
ground is taken, or some novelty advanced ; and in every age,
the war continues. At this very day our press teems with works
on the evidences of Christianity, and in opposition to errors
already a thousand times refuted. In countries where Cliristian-
ity has so triumphed, as to make worldly and political men con-
fess it, and weave it inio the very texture of social and civil
society, what do we see but a dead orthodoxy, an unconverted
priesthood, simony, secularity, and pride? Christianity has
made its greatest triumphs where it has stood despised, hated,
and cast out, by the learning, tlie philosophy, and the power of
the world. Why should missionaries repeat that struggle which
has a thousand times ended in a bootless triumph ? It is not a
man's learning, philosophy, or superstition, that precludes his
conversion, but the opposition of his carnal heart To over-
come this, God forbid that we should confide in aught else than
the doctrine of " Christ crucified, to the Jews a stumbling-block,
and to the Gentiles foolishness." Let us never, never forget that
" God hath chosen the foolishness of this world to confound the
wise, and low things, and. things that are despised, and things
which are not, to bring to naught the things that ai*e, that no
flesh should glory in his presence."

9. Regular churches, with pastors and deacons, should be
formed at the earliest possible period, in eveiy place.

It is of great consequence to put our work on a footing which
may secure stability and increase, without the presence of a
missionary. Ordained native ministers ai*e very few.* Church
order and discipline are not sufficiently understood by the dis-
ciples. The missionary is all in all ; and at his departure or

* In all the Burman and Karen churches I found but one ) in some mu-
ttonSj, none ; and no where, any adequate supply.

976 MODS OF COHDUCnNO MISSIONS.

death, every trace of his work may disappear. It la true, sueh
churches at first would seldom be aUe to stand alone. But if
they ever do, they must first have this feeble beginniog. Then
were great and important reasons why Christ instituted churchea
Even higher advantages result fi'om them, in heathen lands, thas
among ourselves. Without the mutual brotherly watchfiifaMi
which they secure, feeble members cannot receive adeqmte
assistance. It is true, few are as qualified as is desiraUe lor
the imposition of hands. But the apostles, in resolving to
ordain elders in every church, must have met the same difilcuhf.
If no encouraging degree of fitness be found in any member,
we may take a brother from some other church. To these
should be committed, for obvious reasons, most of the preaching,
discipline, and administration of ordinances. They should be
honored in the presence of the people. Their support should, as
fiir as possible, be derived from the converts. Tliey should be
sedulously watched over and aided. They should have associa-
tions, and ministers' meetings. They should meet the missionary
at stated periods, and be aided, as far as possible, in acquiring a
knowledge of Scripture history and doctrine. In many cases,
they should be changed, on the plan of Methodist circuita Some
might attend half the year at a proper seminary. Younger ones
should be placed at such an institution for several years. But
of this more under the next head.

A similar appointment and training should be had for deaconS)
exhorters, and church clerks. The guiding influence of the
missionary should be exerted as unseen as possible. Every
effort should be made, to bring out the capacity and activity
of the members, so that the death or removal of the missionary,
should be injurious in the least possible degree.

10. The qualifications of native assistants should receive more
attention.

The importance of tliis class of auxiliaries can scarcely be too
highly estimated. Without risk of health, and with little ex-
pense or inconvenience, they can carry the tidings of salvation
where a missionary cannot go, or may not be sent, for an age.
They can travel, eat, sit, and lodge, as the natives do. Between
those and themselves, there is not that awful distance which
can scarcely be overcome by a missionary. Their knowledge
of the language is complete, which can seldom be said of a
foreigner. They know, from experience, the exact temptations,
doubts, difficulties, and prejudices of their hearers. They can
talk with an inquirer, often and long, without drawing opposition

MODE OF COIVDUCTIMO MISSIOITS. ' 277

upon him, before he has become enlightened and firm enough to
endmre it To be seen conversing a few times with a missionary,
or to go repeatedly to his house, or chapel, excites almost as
great opposition, as a profession of Christianity. Thus a man's
mind must be made up to encounter exceeding difficulties, be-
ibre he has become sufficiently acquainted with the missionary's
arguments, to know whether he will endure sufiTerlngs for the
Dew religion or not ; that is to say, he must submit to be per-
secuted, before he knows whether the system is worth being
persecuted for.

Various reasons of this sort, some adapted to the condition of
one country, and some to that of another, show the duty of fos^
tering this branch of our force. Unordained natives have indeed,
been employed, and in some places to a great extent. And to
their labors are traceable very numerous conversions. But it
seems necessary to bestow upon them a much greater measure
of mental cultivation and religious knowledge. Had half the
pains been thus bestowed, which have been expended on common
schools, how great would have been the gain!

Witliout some additional mental cultivation, doctrinal' knowl-
edge, and practical graces, native assistants are not able to avail
themselves of their peculiar advantages ; some of which have just
been named. It is well known that scarcely one of them is able to
act alone ; and that, though so useful, when sustained and guided
by a good missionary, they have run into manifold evil^, when
left to themselves. Why is this ? They possess piety, zeal, and
talents. It must be owing to the superior intelligence and' ac-
quired advantages of the missionary. Let us, then, Ih&d them into
that knowledge of the word of Grod, and that measure of devotion,
which at present they have no means of obtaining.

Slender would be the qualifications of a minister with us,^
whose opportunities had been no greater than those of native
preachers. Abstract from him all that his mother and father
taught him, all he learned at infant or Sunday school', from die
moral maxims of his horn-books, his copy-slips, his general read-
ing, and the restraints of Christian society ; put in the place of this^
every degrading, polluting, and erroneous thing, learned by a
heathen child, at home, at school, and abroad ; take away the
intellectual benefits of an academic or collegiate course ; abolish
all his knowledge of the evidences of Christianity, history, chro-
nology, geography, prophecy, miracles, and the state of the
world ; all he ever gained by intercourse with eminent saints,

VOL. IL 24

378 MODE OF coNDucTiife Missions.

or a perusal of their biographies; all the helps he has bad
from commentators, critics, sermons, anniversaries, associatioiu,
religious periodicals, and intercourse with enlightened fellow-
ministers ; in fine, leave him nothing but some portions of God^s
word, and a few evangelical tracts ; and add to him a plenitude
of errors and malpractices acquired in a life of Grentile abomioft-
tions, — and you will have the present qualificatioiis of a natiTe
assistant

Some regular institution seems wanting, in every mission, for
the express purpose of instructing those who give evidences of a
call to this work. Advantages, similar in kind, if not in extent,
to those enjoyed by young ministers at home, should be placed
within their reach. A supply of assistants, thus educated, would
leave leisure to the missionary for necessary translations and
revisions ; for exercising a general pastoral care over a large dis-
trict ; for exploring new fields ; for corresponding with the socie-
ties at home ; and for other duties, which can now only be doDC
at a great sacrifice of pastoral pursuits.

By no other course does it now appear that we can send the
gospel into all the earth. We cannot hope to send forth from
ourselves the hundredth part of an adequate supply of ministers
for six hundred millions of pagans, at an annual expense of fit)m
five hundred to one thousand dollars for ea6h family. Nor could
we consent to lay the foundations of Christianity, over so large
a portion of the earth, by native preachers so ignorant of the
system as those we now have. Without raising these qualifica-
tions, they will soon be despised by the very youth, whom, by
hundreds and thousands are now being educated in missionary
and government schools.

11. A considerable number of the most promising converts
and younger preachers should be taught the English language.

It is dismaying to compute the period which must elapse
before the heathen can be supplied, in their own languages, with
the word of God. Who, then, can predict the time when those
languages shall contain a supply of works in ecclesiastical his-
tory, biblical criticism, theology, and practical piety ? "Who is to
give them books of science and art ? If, now, we would impart
to our missionary pupils the benefits of such studies, we are re-
stricted to wearisome oral instructions, demanding, on the whole,
an amount of time equal to what toovld he necessary to teach than
English, Beside, instructions uususta^ned by reading are less
peifectly acquired, and the amount obtained is in danger of being

VODE OF COimUCTINe HISSTONS. 279

ftrgotten. At best, when the pupil leaves the institutioD, his
progregs is temuDated ; and terminated too, as all school-studies
are, at the threshold of the subjects.

By giving our young convert tlie English language, we set
before him the whole temple of knowledge, and present him
with the key. Subjects which would otherwise ha\'e remdned
forever sealed will be fully open to his inspection. He has but
to use his own powers, and he may pursue an indefinite progress.
With an enriched mind, trained habits of thinking, and a culti-
Tated heart, he goes forth among his people " a workman that
needeth not to be ashamed." Let but the reader ask himself
what benefit he has gained, merely, by a dozen books, such as
ihe Saint's Rest, TjaVs Serious Call, Watts on the Mind, Pilgrim's
Progress, the works of Brooks, Mather, Flavel, Chamock, &C.,
and decide whether, even fbr this, he would not have done well
to master a language? Did he ever gain so much from his
Latin, Greek, French, Italian, or German, or all together, as a
heathen convert would gain from a knowledge of English ? Our
language is now becoming the reli^ous language of mankind,
and perhaps the scientific also. It is to be to the East, what
Greek was to Rome, or Latin was, a century or two ago, to
Europe. Already does it abound with works of imagination,
specimens of eloquence, stores of history, speculations on
xnetaphysdcs, morals, government, law, commerce, scientific re-
searches, and mechanical inventions, immensely more valuable
than was ever extant in all the ancient languages. As to religion,
it probably contains more valuable books than all other lan-
guages put together.

Add, therefore, to the important advantages already enjoyed by
the native preacher, merely those which the ability to read Eng-
lish would confer, and he would be more valuable than almost
any foreign missionary can be, and at the same time cost the
church incomparably less.

From natives able to read English, we might hope soon to see
many valuable translations. Men translate into their own lan-
guage far more successfiilly than into a foreign one. They
would do more than this — they would write original works.
Few translations, except of the Scriptures, will ever be very
useful. Books, being written for our state of society, and degree
of knowledge, do not ans^ver for heathen. They must be
written by natives, not only in native idiom, but in native modes
of thinking, and adapted to the degree of knowledge possessed
by the reader. Our books, on every page, take for granted

280 MODI OF CONDUCTUre MIBSIOKS.

certain measures of previous meutal culture, which heathea
readers do not possess, and for want of which, the whole effint
of the author is likely to fidL

The difficulty of learning to read and write a language, es-
pecially our own, is much less than learning to speak it ; and is
this case, only the former is required. Indeed, the learning n
much of a language as to gather the meaning of an author, is bf
no means an arduous undertaking. To pronounce correctly,
and to conmiand words fluently for conversation, is much the
largest part of the task. This is not only unnecessaiy to our
brethren, but in some cases undesirable, lest they be corrupted
by evil intercourse, or tempted to seek secular situations of
greater profit

A native assistant has now no books to read, but the tracts
and translations, to which his hearers have access. How can
he hold a proper intellectual and religious superiority over them?
He ought to be versed in the true meaning of difllcult passages,
the rules of interpretation, the geography, chronology, and
natural history of the Bible, the manners and customs of Jews^
and other kindred studies. He should know something of
ecclesiastical history, church government, and biblical theology.
But in all these he has no helps in his own language, and in
hundreds of languages there never will be any. Missionary
money can never make translations of all these ; and many years
must elapse before there will be a religious public, creating such
a demand for them, that they will be printed as matters of
trade.

In our own country, what students actually learn at college, is
not so important as the knowledge they obtain of the sources of
information. The wide and long vista of truth is opened be-
fore them ; they see what is to be learned, obtain mental train-
ingj get a knowledge of books, and leave the institution prepared
to be successful students. Not so with native preachers. They
set out with a modicum of biblical knowledge, precariously
retained in their memories, and with scarcely the advantages
of a Sunday scholar. They meet antagonists, learned in the
prevailing system, and must contend with them, without so
much as a proper knowledge of their own.

12. There must be greater care taken that a station, once
begun, should be uninterruptedly maintained.

That this has not been the case, has seldom been the fault of
missionaries. It is not easy to convey the importance of this
idea to churches and directors at home ; and their arrangements

Hmn OP coNDvcTiNe mssioinu 281

liBve been such as to spread over as large a surface as possible^
kHtTing many stations in the hands of a solitary iodividual.

What would be the effect on any district of fifty, or sixty, or
perhaps five hundred square miles, which should be left for one,
two, or three years, without a minister, or a prayer-meeting, or a
Smday school, or, in fine, any of the means of grac« ? But with
WMy even in such a case, there would be a thousand good influ-
fttiees, public and private. Not so among the heathen. The
death or departure of a missionary stops every thing, except a
church have been gathered, and native pastors trained. Even
liien, all activity is suspended, and passive virtues will not abound.
The converts will fidl into errors and apostasies, if not into
sufiTerings and want

A heathen or Mussulman, on becoming a Christian, is gener*
ally discarded by his friends ; and where caste exists, always.
In very many cases, if the missionary do not provide him woii^
he must starve. If not so poor, yet without the missionary, how
shall he contend with the difticulties of his situation, and the
evils of his former habits ? He is left without daily instruction,
without pious intercourse, without a shield from tyranny. The
little band, gathered by years of toil, is in a few months
flcattered ; the enemy triumphs ; confidence in the continuance
of the station is destroyed ; and the next missionary is often led
to affirm, as several have done to me, that it would have been
better if no predecessor had ever labored there.

Many contingencies may cause a station to be suspended
where a missionary is alone. There can be no security against
it, except by placing two brethren at every station ; and at
some, still more. They need not always be in the same com-
pound, or even in the same village ; but should not be so far
iqpart as to prevent one from taking an efiective temporary charge
of the department of the other, in case of death, sickness, or
absence.

It seems to have been one of the most fatal errors of modem
missions to disregard, so generally, the New Testament example
in this particular. Our I^rd sent both the seventy and the
twelve, two by two. When he had ascended, the apostles con-
tinued the same plan. They either proceeded forth in pairs, or
took a younger evangelist as a "partner and fellow-helper."
The Holy Ghost gave sanction to this mode, when he called fot
die separation of Barnabas and Saul to a particular field. How
touching and instructive are Paul's feelings, when separated
from his official companion, though in the midst of distinguished

24*

382 MODE OF COIVDUCTINO MISSIONS.

successes ! "When 1 came to Troas to preach, and a door wh
opened unto me of the Lord, I had no rest in my spvit, beaam
I found not Titus ; so, taking my leave, I went into Macedonia.'
When Titus rejoined him, he was in the midst of diss^poiBl'
ment and difficulty ; but his heart was immediately made wbok
He then said, ** I am filled, I am exceeding joyfid, in all our
tribulation ; for though, when we came into Macedonia, our fleeh
had no rest, and we were troubled on every side, (without were
fightings, and within were fears,) yet God comforted us by tbe
coming of Titus." 2 Corinthians iL 12, 13, and viL 4r-6L

It is believed by some judicious brethren abroad, that some
missionaries have died in consequence of lonesomeness, dis-
traction, care, and excessive exertion.

13. It is important to establish a greater division of labor.

Hitherto the same missionary has been compelled to be
pastor, itinerant, Sunday school teachei*, schoolmaster, trans-
lator, author, tract- distributor, proof-reader, physician, nurse,
housekeeper, and perhaps printer and bookbinder. Some-
times, in addition to these, he must oversee catechists and
preachers, be agent for inland stations, and preach occasionally
in English ! The thing amounts to a perfect absurdity. Some
men may endure such wear and tear for a while ; but the results
of their labors are nullified by desultorinesa Regularity and
efficiency are impossible. Nothing can be prosecuted with
sufficient vigor, either to obtain skill in it, or secure the best
results.

It is truly surprising that the few missionaries scattered over
the world, should have accomplished what we now see. It
proves that, in general, they must have been extraordinary men.
And it is very well to practise on the doctrine, that it is better to
wear out than rust out But such a system as is now pursued,
only makes men tear out

Schools might be maintained by the vrives of missionaries, or
by brethren who shall call themselves schoolmasters. Where
preaching in English is deemed necessary, let a brother separate
himself to that work ; or let it be done by one whose age, experi-
ence, and mental cultivation, will enable him to do it with extem-
poraneous ability. Theological or boarding schools should enjoy
the whole services of a select individual. Translations and au-
thorship, with some avocation requiring bodily activity, are work
enough for one man at each principal station. Further specifi-
cations must depend on each particular case.

Beside the advantages on the spot of such a distribution of

KOia OF COIIDUCTINO MISSIONS. 383

'#Dtie8 it would have a happy efiect at home in showing the
ohurches the actual state and operations of their phalanx abroad.
They would see what branches of the work most needed reen-
* Ibrcemeot. They would better understand what result should be
expected in each particular department They would particular-
ly see what propordon of labor is made to bear on the imme-
diate conversion of souls, and the whole operation of the mis-
sionary enterprise would stand transparent and self-explained.

14. There should be more concentration of efibrt

In every mission there should be one point where operations
should be conducted with great vigor and by many hands.

By placing at this point the translator, the printing-office, the
school for native assistants, and two or three evangelists, beside
those brethren whose proper field is pestilent or inaccessible
except during a portion of the year, there would be secured many
advantages. Numerous questions from minor stations, which
must now wait the tedious process of a reference to the Board,
might be safely left to the decision of such a body of brethren on
the spot. Vacancies at various points might be immediately
supplied — a matter, as has been shown, of great consequence.
Thus a &rmer, penetrating into the forest, makes first an efiective
clearing where he establishes himself^ and fix>m whence he may
extend his openings at pleasure. Thus an army always has its
^ head quarters." Thus the primitive church retained at Jeru-
salem a body of principal apostles and elders, to whom disputed
questions were referred, from whence the brethren went forth
to their spheres, and to whom they returned, reporting suc-
cesses and refreshing themselves with genial society.

The majority of employments which were just named as ab-
surdly falling on the same individual, may be divided and prose-
cuted at such central station with efiect Thus the brethren
who go forth, two by two, to lonelier stations, will have fewer
duties, and may divide these with a prospect of mutual succes&
The establishment of such a body of brethren would constitute a
safe baod of counsellors both to one another and to their society
at home ; it would inspire confidence in the natives that the un-
dertakiug was permanent ; it could supply for a time any out-
station vacated by the retirement or death of a missionary ; and
it would be a favorable location for new missionaries to study
for a year or two, and acquire a knowledge of their field.

There should be more concentration as to the portions of the
world which we attempt to evangelize. Those regions which
have received the largest supply of missionaries have been the

SM Mcmz OF coNDucTma mssioirs.

most encouraging. Labrador and Greenland, with a populatictt
of but eigbt or nine thousand, have fifty-one missionarieB and
assistants. The West Indies have more than two hundred mis-
sionaries ; and each of these may be counted equal to two in the
East Indies, if we consider that they have not been obliged to
learn a language, or make dictionaries, translations, &c. Jamaica,
with a population of four hundred thousand, has more than sixty
European missionaries. The Sandwich Islands, with a popula*
tion of one hundred and eight thousand, has eighty-seven nus-
sionaries and assistants. The portion of Karens which have re-
ceived the services of Boardman, Wade, and Mason, and which
has been blessed in actual conversions more than almost any
other, amounts to less than six thousand.

On the other hand, there are single cities containing popula-
tions of hundreds of thousands, with but one, two, or three mis-
sionaries ; and in these we hear of small success. It is to be
feared that the church has, in its anxiety to spread wide the
tidings of salvation, been beguiled into too great diffusiveness of
labor. It seems hard to keep sending men to countries already
entered, while whole kingdoms and tribes are lefl to perish. But
it had better be thus. Only thus can the work be done. Only
thus will the church be able to see clearly and impressively how
much land remains to be possessed, and feel the inadequacy ef
her present operations.

15. A larger proportion of effort should be directed to the
more enlightened nations, and to the higher classes in all nations.

Our efforts have hitherto been expended chiefly on Esqui-
maux, Laplanders, Greenlanders, Tartars, American Indians^
Sandwich Islanders, Hottentots, Bushmen, Nicobarians, Malays,
Negroes, and Slaves. Converts have indeed been made, and
immortal souls saved. But the results terminate on the spot
Such people have no such influence on adjacent nations- as had
the citizens of Jerusalem, Damascus, Alexandria, Rome, Corinth,
or Ephesus. They have no commerce to spread abroad the
holy leaven, and few pecuniary resources to enable them to join
in the work of giving Bibles and ministers to the rest of the
world.

Among tribes so degraded, the missionary contends with brutal
ignorance, strong temptations to hypocrisy, deep poverty, petty
wars, and frequent changes in congregation ; together with the in-
conveniences of unsuitable food and habitation, and the most vio-
lent change in all his previous habits and associations. Had we
'gun by spreading the gospel among our more immediate

Mora OF COlfDUCTINO MI88IOH8. 965

ndf^bon and the greater kingdomg, missionaries, and mission-
aiy influences in a thousand forms, would have multiplied spon-
taneously. Converted Arabs, Chinese, Hindus, or Burmans
could have spread out among ruder tribes, without those violent
transitions which curtail the lives of our brethren, or those ex-
cessive expenses which keep down the extent of our efforts.

It may be thought the Hindus should not be named in this
collection, so much having been done for them. But the extent
of this country should be remembered, and the number of mis-
monaries, which, with all the late augmentations, have been sent
to occupy it From Bombay to Bankok, and from Ceylon to
Delhi, the number of missionaries is stated by a late vmter
in the Calcutta Christian Observer to be one hundred and
thirty. This estimate comprehends at least 200,000,000 in-
habitants — one misMonary to 1,538,461 souls. The region de-
scribed, it will be perceived, includes Burmah, as well as Hin-
dustan, and is emphatically that part of the field to which the
attention of the church has been of late years particularly
drawn.

In scarcely any mission have the higher classes received their
(iill share of attention. They have not been so finely visited at
their houses ; and when visited, it has rather been the act of
respect, or to secure advantages. The visit is seldom for the
express purpose of winning their souls, as is the case when the
poor are sought The oflener such visits are paid without the
disclosure of a deep anxiety for the conversion of his soul, the
more does the chief, or rich man, grow satisfied to remain
as he is, and to suppose that his toleration or fi*iendship is all
that is expected. We should abhor the spirit which gathers
ministers round great men, to share their gifls, to bask in their
fiivor, to secure political enactments in favor of religion, or to
gain popularity and distinction among the common people. But
we should leave no efibrts unattempted to save their souls. The
prophecies which cheer us in our work, specify such persons
as among the fruit, and declare that they shall be nursing fathers
and mothers to the church. Ceesar's court contained disciples.
Some of the ** mighty," and of " honorable ones, not a few," ap-
pear among the converts to apostolic zeal.

Concluding Rebiarks. Many suggestions to the churches at
home offer themselves. I will venture only two or three.

1. The number of missionaries should be greatly increased.
Numerous stations, occupied now by a single individual, should

"386

MODS OF co5DUCTi9e His^ioirs.

1)6 reenfbrced by one, two, and Id some cases ^re or six liretlireiL
No post has been taken, which seems untenable or useless;
none from which the occupant wishes to retreat. £ach de-
Bcribes openings for usefukiess which he cannot embrace. If
we mean merely to keep our present position, there is need of a
fresh laborer in every station and department, who may be coming
forward in his qualifications, and be ready to take up the task at
any moment, in case of the death of the present incumbent.

There must be a wrong in concentrating preachers among a
portion of mankind, to the extent seen in England and Ameri-
ca, wliile whole nations lie unblest with the truth. Such as
have not known or considered the proportion of ministe^rs in
England and America, should ponder the following facts.

The following table takes up some of the counties in Eng-
land alphabetically, so as to furnish a Mr sample of the whole.

GMMtf.

Bedfordshire,....

Berkshire,

Buckinghamshire,
Gambridgesbh^, .

Cheshire,

Cornwall,

Cumberland, ....
Derbyshire,

^rea.

Ckurekrt,

■qau« Miks.

463

127

VolonUxy.

ToUl.

199

758

160

243

738

214

303

857

174

261

1052

142

162

304

1330

221

328

549

1523

145

235

1028

177

189

365

PtpmJmlun,

SamU to «

95,000
145,000
146,000
143,000
334,000*
302,0001
169,000!
237,000!

477
997
482
548
1099
550
719
649

In New England, taken at large, the proportion of ministers is
not much short of the above average. In Massachusetts are 1252
ministers ; population, 650,000 ; average souls to each minister,
519. In New Hampshire are 412 ministers; population, 269,633;
average number of souls to each minister, 654. In Connecticut
are 482 ministers ; population, 298,000 ; average number of souls
to each, 620.* The great cities of the United States are shown,
by Rev. Messrs. Reed and Mattheson, to have a Im^r proportion
of ministers, than those of England and Scotland.

The contrast between one missionary, and he a foreigner, im-
perfect in the language, and unsustained by surrounding Chris-
tians, attempting to bless a million of souls, and a pastor in
Great Britain or America to every four or five hundred souls,

* These numbers are taken from the Registers of the respective States.
In the other Northern States the proportion is about the ssune.

aad aided by a hundred Christian influences, is. botli> paiofiij. apd
l^mniliating.

3* Numerous lay brethren are immediately wanted.

A glance at the employments enumerated a little while ago^
shows how few of them fall, exclusively within- the province of a
ipinister. Except preaching, administering ordinances, and pre-
siding over church discipline, they may as well be done by
laymen. Perhaps one reason why so little is said of some of
t^iese departments, in the New Testament, is, that that history
gives professedly the life of Christ, and the acts of apostles. We
certainly see that some branches of missionary duty WjBre con-
ngnefl to laymen, such, for instance, as the secular concerns, the
care* of the poor, and the settlement of disputes. There are
many brethren not inferior to the best ministers in piety. A
knowledge of business and accounts, and habits of order, de-
spatch, and economy, give some of these superior qualifications
for some parts of the work. Such services as are rendered by
lay brethren in our own country, are greatly wanted.

It is neither necessary nor desirable that all laymen, who for
Christ's sake go to the heathen, should put themselves under the
patronage of a society, or give their whole time to religious
services. The brethren scattered from Jerusalem by persecution,
no doubt pursued their secular callings, in the cities whither
they fled. Yet through them the holy influence was spread.

If persecution were now to break out in England, or the United
States, thousands of church members would pass to other parts
of the world, and, we may presume, would labor to establish
pure religion wherever they might find a home. May we not
fear that if we remain supine, some such necessity for dispersion
Dfiay be permitted to occur ? By going without the impulse of
persecution, the sacrifices involved in emigration are immensely
lessened. The ties of friendship, kindred, and business, may be
preserved, and property retained. In fact, the evils incurred by
voluntary expatriation are submitted to by multitudes, for no
higher end than the possible improvement of outward circum-
stances.

Finally. A vastly higher state of piety at home must be
realized.

On this copious and most important theme, 1 must now confine
myself to a few sentences. But 1 pass it by with the more con-
tent, because it is a subject on which others can write as well as
one who has travelled, and which is often calling forth able
works. I think it has been proved that the measure of mission-

288 MODE OF CONDUCTING MISSIONS.

ary success is equal to the amount and kind of efR>rt employed.
But all must agree, that had the whole movement been more
apostolic, there would be seen much more fruit Want of piety
makes missionaries less successful, just as it does other ministers.
Were they absorbingly interested in their work, and highly qual-
ified for it, by large measures of the spirit of Christ, they would
seldomer fidl into the subordinate and less self-denying depart-
ments of labor, and would prosecute their proper work, not only
with more commensurate zeal and skill, but with a greater
blessing.

How shall such missionaries be expected from a religious
community pervaded by love of ease, elegance, and gain ? They
come forth from the mass, and resemble the mass. Streams rise
no higher than their sources. In vain we harangue departing
missionaries upon the necessity of a holy weanedness from the
world, and contempt of ease, if we have no more ourselves.
These are not the fruits of mere volition, or sudden effort They
are the result of circumstances and self-training, through the
steady agency of the Spirit None but extraordinary persons
rise above the level of tieir times ; and we cannot expect every
missionary, and missionary's wife, and printer, and school teacher,
to be an extraordinary person, wholly in advance of the churches.
They are, moreover, sent out too young to have made very great
Christian attainments, even if they are extraordinary persons.
The ordinary state of the church must be made right, and then
ordinary persons will have right views, aims, and qualities ; and
missionaries will possess proper qualifications, and bear abroad
a proper spirit

Every professed Christian, therefore, may aid the cause of mis-
sions by promoting a return to apostolic simplicity and singleness
of heart among all Christians, This would not only furnish the
right kind of missionaries, but the right number, and the proper
support. When every believer shall habitually pray not only for a
blessing on the work at large, but for a clear perception of his
own duty in the matter, and shall cherish the spirit of entire
self-dedication, we shall have abundant means and proper men.

289

POLITICAL RELATIONS OF THE EAST INDIA

COMPANY.*

1. Ihreign. Persia, Cabul, Senna, Arabs, Siam, Acheen.

2l ExUmaly or IhnUier. Burmah, Nepaul, Lahore, Scindia.

3. Iniemal^ or those which have relinquished political rela-
tions with one another, and with all other states. The latter
kind may be divided into six classes : —

L Treaties offensive and defensive. Right on their part to
claim protection, external and internal, from the British govemr
ment. Right on its part to interfere in their internal affairs.

Area in square miles.

1. Oude, 23922

2. Mysore, 27999

3. Berar, 56723

Area in square milea.

4 Tra vancore, 4573-

5. Cochin, 1787

n. Treaties offensive and defensive. Right on their part as
ftboTc. No right on the part of the British to interfere in their
internal affairs.

1. Hydrabad, 88887

n C Baroda, 5525

tKatewa, 19424

in. Treaties offensive and defensive. Tributary to British
government, but supreme rulers in their own territory.

1. Indore, 4245

2. Oudepore, or

Ooduypore 11 784

3. Jeypore, 13426

4. Joudpore, .34131

5. Kotah, 5500

6. Boondee, .2291

7. Ulwur, 3294

8. Bickaneer, 18059

9. Jesulmeer, 9779

10. Kishengur, 724

11. Banswarra, 1440

12. Purtabur, 1457

13. Doongurpore, 2004

14. Keerolee, 1878

15. Serowee, 3024'

16. Bhurtpore, 1945

17. Bhopal, 6772

18. Cutch, 7395

19. Dhar, 1465

20. Dhalpore Baree, 1625

21. Saugor and Bundle-

cund, 26483

22. Savuntwaree, 934

* Compiled for this work, from Hamilton's Gazetteer, and other sources.
VOL. II. 25

290

TABLES.

IV. Guarantee and protection. Subordinate cooperation. Su-
premacy in their own territory.

1. Ameer Khan Touk,.. 1103

2. Seronge, 261

3. Neembera 2(59

V. Amity and friendship.
1. Gwalior,

4. Putteala, Keytal, Naba
Jheend, and other pro-
tected Seik states, . .16602

.32944

VI. Protection and right on the part of the British to control
internal affairs.

1. Sattara, 7943 | 2. Collapore,,

.3184

Total area in square miles of the above native states, 449,845

Absolute British territory in India included within the
Bengal, Bombay, and Madras Presidencies, 626^745

Grand Total, 1,076^

The British have ascertained the population of their absolute
territory, including the Burman provinces, to be about eighty-four
millions ; and that of the states above named is probably quite
as gi'eat, if not more ; making the entire number of the human
fiimily, subject to British general control in India, not less than a
hundred and sixty-eight millions.

The whole number of Britons in India does not exceed 50,000,
of whom 30,000 belong to the army.

The standing army of the East India Company now exceeds
200,000 men, of which about 175,000 are sepoys. It has often
amounted to a much larger number, and at this time is about to
be enlarged, through jealousy of Russia. In January, 1827, it
exceeded 300,000 men, viz.

Artillery, 15,782

Native cavalry, 26,094

Native infantry, or sepoys, 234,412

Engineers, 4,575

280,863

King's troops, 21,934

Total, 302,7^ men.

BRITISH TERRITORIAL POSSESSIONS,

WITH THE DATS OF THEIR ACQUISITIONS.
A. D.

1639. Madras, a territory five miles along shore by one inland.

1664. Bombay.

1691. Fort St David,

ie9a Calcutta.

1750 )

176^! i ^^ Jaghire, in the Camatic

1757. The twenty-four Pergunnas.

176L Chittagong, Burdwan, and M idnapore.

1765. Bengal, Bahar, and four of the Northern Circars.

177a The Island of Salsette.

178L The Zemindary of Benares.

1787. The Guntoor Circar.

1792. Malabar, Canara, Coimbatore, Dindigal, Salem, Barra-

1799. Seringapatam. [mahal, &c

1800. The Balaghaut ceded districts of Bellary and Cuddapah.

1801. Territories ceded by the nabob of Gude, consisting of

Rohilcund, (including Bareily, Moradabad, Shahjenan-
pore, &C.,) tne lower Doab, and the districts of Furrucka-
bad, Allahabad, Cawnpore, Goruckpore, Azinghur, &c.

1801. The remainder of the Camatic, comprehending the whole
of the nabob of Arcot's territoriea

1803. The Dutch portion of the Island of Ceylon.

1803. Delhi, Agra, the upper Doab Hurriana, Sabarunpore,
Merut, Alighur, Etawah, Bundlecund, Cuttack, Balasore,
Juggernaut, &c.

1803. Cessions from the Peshwa and Guicowar in Gujerat

1815. Part of Nepaul, consisting of the hill country between
the Sutuleje and Jumna Rivers and the aistricts of
Gurwal and Kumaon.

1815. The kingdom of Candy in Ceylon.

1816. Anjar, Mandavie, and other places in Cutch.

1818. Poona, and the whole of the Peshwa's dominions, Can-
deish, Saugur, and other places in Malwa; Ajmeer
in Rajpootana; and Sumbhulpore, Sirgooja, Gurrah,
Mundlah, and other portions of Gundwana.

1825. Conquests from the Burmese, consisting of Asam, Ca-
char, Munipore, Arracan, and the Tenasserim prov-
inces, consisting of Martaban, Ye, Tavoy, Mergui, and
the adjacent isles.

292

PRINCIPAL MISSIONARY STATIONS IN THE

WORLD,

WITH THE DATE OF THEIR ESTABLISHMENT, AND THE SOCIETY
BT WHICH THET ARE SUPPORTED.

Th« abbreviations are, U. B., for United Brethren, or Moraviant; C. K. 8., foi
Christian Knowledge Society ; W. M. S., for Wesleyan Missionary Socie^j
E. B. M., for English Baptist Missionary Society ,* S. M. S., for Scottish liQft-
sionary Society ; C. M. S., for Church Missionary Society ; L. J. S., for Lon-
don Jews Society ; N. M. S., for Nettierlands Missionary Society ; 6. M. S., for
German Missionary Society; Gl. M. S., for Glasgow Missionary Society;
G. B. M., for General Baptist's Missions ; U. F. M. for United Foreign Missionary
Society; A. B. C, for American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Mis-
sions ; A. B. B., for American Baptist Board of Missions ; P. £. B., for Protes-
tant Episcopal Board ; N. Y. S., for New Yorlc Missionary Society j G. A. M.,
for General Assembly's Missions ; M. M., for Methodist Missions.

Tranquebax, . King of Denm. 1706.

Madras, C. K. S. 1727.

Vepary, C. K. S. 1727.

St. Thomas, U. B. 1732.

Greenland, U. B. 1733.

St. Croix, U. B. 1734.

St. Jan, • U. B. 1734.

North America, U. B. 1734.

Canadian Indians,. . . .U. B. 1734.
Muskingum Indians, .U. B. 1734.

Surinam, U. B. 1735.

Parimaribo, U. B. 1735.

South Africa, U. B. 1736.

Negapatam, C. K. S. 1737.

Cuddalore, C. K. S. 1737.

Gnadenthal, U. B. 1737.

Pilgerhut, U. B. 1738.

Sharon, ..••• U. B. 1739.

Labrador, U. B. 1752.

Jamaica, U. B. 1754.

Antigua, U. B. 1756.

Hope, . .......>. U. B. 1757.

Nicobar Islands, U. B. 1759.

Tranquebar, U. B. 1759.

Trichinopoly, C. K. S. 1762.

Barbadoes, U. B. 1765.

Asiatic Russia, U. B. 1765.

Bombay, U. B. 1766.

Tanjore, ,C. K. S. 1772.

St. Christopher, U. B. 1774.

Grace Hill,(Antigua,).U. B. 1782.

Sommelsdyke, U. B. 1785.

Caribbee Islands . . W. M. S. 1788.

Trinidad, W. M. S. 1788.

Tobago, ..•..•.••••.. U. B. 1789.
Cape of Good Hope, . . U. B. 1792.

Serampore, £. B. M. 1793.

Malda, £. B. M. 1794.

Taheiti, L. M. S. 1797.

St. Christina, . . . . W. M. S. 1797.
Marquesas Islands, L. M. S. 1797.

Calcutta, Li. M. S. 1798.

Susoo Country, . . . S. M. S. 1798.

India, £. B. M. 1798.

Zac River, L. M. S. 1799.

Bermudas, W. M. S. 1799.

South Africa, E. B. M. 1799.

CafFraria, E. B. M. 1799.

Newfoundland, . . . . E. B. M. 1799.

Serampore, E. B. M. 1799.

Boschemen, E. B. M. 1799.

Tuscaroras, N. Y. S. 1800.

Cherokee Indians,. . . . U. B. 1801.

Griqua Town, L. M. S. 1801.

Calcutta, B. M. S. 1801.

Stellenbosch, B. M. S. 1801.

^ Russii,t'!^*'? I . . S. M. S. 1802.

Tartary,.'. S. M. S. 1803.

Bethelsdorp, L. M. S. 1803.

Ceylon, E. B. M. 1804.

Bahamas, W. M. S. 1804.

West Africa, C. M. S. 1804.

Cutwa, B. M. S. 1804.

Dinagopore, E. B. M. 1805.

Sahebrrunffe, E. B. M. 1805.

MMtOlUKT STATIOm.

Snrat,

..C. M.S. 1806.

M>imtiiK,orl^

Green B»y,....

..U.F.M. 1805.

of France, ....

A««Mmi ....

..A.B.C.1805.

Java,

H>drx, :......

..L. M.S. 1805.

Trnvancore,....

..L.M.S, 1805.

Madoi,

(CeyfoQ,).."*"

..L. M.S. 1805.

Jamaica,

Ambojna,

..L. M.S. 1805

Surat,

New York, J -

..U.F.M. 1805.

M^v

TrnTFODcre, .

..L.M.S. 1806.

Meetut'.!!"!!!!

..E.B.M.180e.

Malacca

. E. B. M. 1806.

Bethany,

St, Bartholomew

.W.M.S.1806.

Orenburg,

Creek ludians,..

....U.S. 1807.

Aitrachan,

..E.B.M. 1807.

KUTDBUI,

Canton',!".'.'.'.'.

..L.M.8.180T.

Free -town, )

CJcntU,

.C. M, S. 1807.

(W. Africa,) J-

Msdrai

.W.M.8.ie07.

Fiee-town,

Denwiwi,

.W. M. S. 1808.

Ceylon

Tol«go,

..E.B.M.180e,

Cafiraria,

Bangoon

..E.B.M. 1808.

Benares,

■mSdad

..E.B.M. 1809.

Chunar

Digah,

BflV)--

.E. B. M. 1809.

Dacca,

..E.B.M.1809.

Digah,

Bumiah,

.E.B.M. 1809.

Haweifl-town, . . .

New&jiid,!.'

..X,.M.S. 1810.

Calcutta,

..CM. S. 1810.

Jamaica,

ori«. ;,..

..E.B,M. 1810.

Monghyr,

Baluon,

..E.B.M.1810.

Raiolea,

WB^V

..E.B.M.1810.

Batticotta,

..E.B.M.1810.

Cherokeen,

..E.B.M.ieil.

Burdwan,

..L.M.S.1811.

Hayti,

mX"'. ".";;.';;

..L.M.S. 1811,

Benare

Bombiy

..A. B.C. 1812,

Cottayani

BoKhetfieU, >

Agr......

..C. M.S. 1813.

Ceylon,

Aip^^;....

..E.B.M. 1812.

..E.B.M. 1813.
..L. M.S. 1812.

(S. Africa,) J ■ ■
Cottayani,

S^,.....

..E.B. M. 1812.

Chinaurah,

..I,.M.S.18ia.

CherokecB

^■5:a^.:^"?^S

..L. M.S. 1812.

Calcutta,

Allahabad,

Javo.T: „

..E.B.M. 1813,

Bencoolen,

..L. M.S. 1813.

Valley (Qwne,....

Lattakoo,

..L. M.S. 1813.

Choctaw,

GUiuuro,

..L.M.S.I813.

New Holland...

"Wyniidott and >

Sandusky,.. J-

irx;;:;::::

..A. BE. 1813.

..A. B.C. 1813.

B»ta™

..L. M.S. 1814.

^^-:.

ArtracJmo,

..S. M.S. 1814.

Malir&tta,

..A.B.C. 1814.

Allepie,

Cejfcn,

Theopoli;......

..A.B.C. 1814.

i L. M. S. 1B14.

..L.M.S.1814.

.,L. M.S. 1814.

..C.M.S.1814.

..E.B.H. 1814.

..E.B.M.1814.

..L. M.S. 1816.

..CM. S. 1816.

..CM. 8. 1816.

..L.M.8.1815.

..L.M.S. 1815.

,.8. M.S. 1815.
...B. M.S. 1816.

..C.M.S. 1816.

.W.M.S. 181&

..CM. S. 1816.

..A.B.C. 1816.

..L.M.S. 1816.

..E.B.M. 1816.

..C.M.S. 1816.

..E,B.M. 1816.

..E.B.M. 1816.

..L. M.S. 1816

..L.M.S. 1816.

..C.M.S. 1816.

..E.B.M. 1816.

..L.M.S. 1816.
...A. B.C. 1817.
...A, B.C. 1817.

..C.M.S. 1817.

..W.M-S. 1817.

..C.M.S. 1817.

..CM. S. 1817.

..CM. 8. 1817.

,..L.M.S. 1817.
...L. M.S. 1817.
...A.B.B,1817.
...A.B. B. 1817.

..E.B.M. 1817.

..E.B. M. 1818.

. .E.B. M. 1818.

..A.B.B.1818.
...A.B.C.1818.
...C.M.S. 1818.

..A.B.B.181B.

..L.M,S.iei8.

..C.M.S, 1816.
...CM. 8.1818.
...CM. S. 1818,

»4

msSIONART STATIONS.

Nellore, C. M. S. 1818.

Bimom,(W.) ^^ ^. jyi S
Africa,) ..5

Cherokees, A. B. B.

New Zealand, C. M. S.

Binder*B Point, . . . .L. M. S.

Doorgapore, E. B. M.

Parre, ..•••• L. M. S.

Singapore, .•••••• .L. M. S.

Penang,.. ••• Li< M. S.

Mayaveram, C. M. S.

Bombay, C M. S.

Sumatra, £. B. M.

Ajemere, ••••...• .£. B. M.
Syria, ... ••••••• .A. B. C.

Greece, A. B. C.

Bangalore, L. M. S.

Sandwich Islands,.. A. B. C.

Belganm, • .A. B. C

Arkansas Chero., . . A. B. C.
Van Diemen's Land^W.M.S.

Benares, L. M. S.

Calcutta, G. P. S.

Polamcotta, C. M. S.

Monrovia, A. B. B.

Crisma, S. M. S.

Bathurst, C. M. S.

Beltollah, C K. S.

Chummie, G. M. S.

Tuscaroras, U. F. M.

Chickasaws, A. B. C.

Quilon, L. M. S.

Negapatam, W. M. S.

Trincomalee, W. M. S.

Chittagong, A. B. B.

Orissa, .£. G. B.

Cuddapah, L. M. S.

C/orfu, mLi. r/x. S.

^**^^_M U.F.M.

Sandwich Islands,.. L. M. S.

Malta, A. B. C.

Cuttack, G. B. M.

Cotta, C. M. S.

Friendly Islands,. .W. M. S.

Maupite, L. M. S.

Tohoa, L. M. S.

Dresden, (Germany ,)L. J. S.

South America, E. B. M.

Red River, (North >^ ^ ^
West Amer.) . . J C. M. S.

1818.

1818.
1819.
1819.
1819.
1819.
1819.
1819.
1819.
1819.
1819.
1819.
1820.
1820.
1820.
1820.
1820.
1820.
1820.
1820.
1820.
1820.

1820.

1820.
1821.
1821.
1821.
1821.
1821.
1821.
1821.
1821.
1821.
1821.
1821.
1822.
1822.
1822.

1822.

1822
1822.
1822.
1822.
1822.
1822.
1822.
1822.
1822.

1822.

Maupiti, L. M. S.

Taha, or Otaha. . . . .L. M. S.
Chumie, (S. AfV.) Gl. M. S.
Lovedale, (S. Afr.)Gl. M. S.

Honduras, £. B. M.

South America,. • • . £. B. M.
Delhi,. •..••.••... E. B. M.
Buenos Ayres,. . . . . A. B. C.
Beyroot, .......... A. B. C.

Beerbhoom, £. B. M.

New Zealand,....W. M. S.

Boffues-town, L. M. S.

Saaras, ......••••. N. M. S.

Crorruckpore, C. M. S.

Combaconum, C. M. S.

v/reejKs, ••*.•••••«. x\i . js. jj.
Karens, (Burmah,).A. B. B.
Jamaica, ••••.•••••S. M. S.
Jamaica,. •••.•••••... U. B.
Ottawas,* ••••..•• .A. B. B.

Batticaloe,.. W. M. S.

Shusha, G. M. S.

Berhampore, L. M. S.

Kidderpore, L. M. S.

Buenos Ayres, A. B. 0.

Uiaia, •••....•••.• 1j. wL. o.

Combaconum, L. M. S.

Caf&aria, L. M. S.

Lageba, (Fegee Is.) L. M. S.

Osa^s, U. F. M.

Macninaw, U. F. M.

Maumee, U. F. M.

Akyab, (Arracan,).E. B. M.
Raivaivai Islands,. .L. M. S.

Maulmain, A. B. B.

Chittoor L. M. S.

Butterworth, \ \st TA ^

rS. Africa,) 5 •••^•J^-»-

Salem, Li. M. S.

Green Bay, A. B. C.

Benares, E. B. M.

Madras, G. P. S.

Liberia, G. M. S.

Khodon, (Siberia,) . L. M. S.
Neyoor, (Tra- > r M S

vancore,).. 5 "'^'^^'^'
Stockbridge > a n r«

Indians,. 5 A. U. ^.

^yra, C M^. S.

Abyssinia, C. M. S.

Bombay, S. M. S.

Ojibwas, [Chip- \ a r o

pewas,] 5 --A-^-^-

Gowhatte (Asam,).E. B. M.

822.

822

822!

822

823.

824.

8^.

825.

826.

827.

927.

827.

827.
827.
827.
827.
827.
823.

828.

828.
628.
828.

828.

829

laSSIONAJaT STATIONS.

295

VrrGCCCty* •••••••••• iTt Him J5*

Habai Islaiids,. . . . W. M. S.

Hie Bushmen, L. M. S.

Coimbatore, L. M. S.

JBa^dat, ...•• C. M . S.

Cliinay •••••••••• • A. D» vy.

Calcutta, •••S. M« S.

Chippewa, • A. B. C.

Shawanoes, .••••••. .M. M.

Liberia, M. M.

Tavoy,.* ••••••■•• • A. B. B.

South Africa, £. B. M.

Boujah,.. • C. M. S.

Shawnees, ........ A. B. B.

Delawares, A. B. B.

Delawares, M. M.

Constantinople,. . . . A. B. C.
Western Cherokees^A. B. B.
France,. ...••...• .A. B. B.

Kickapoos, A. B. B.

Delawares, A. B. B.

\^rcc&s, • ••••■•••• mj\.% D% v/«
Peorias & Kaskaskia9,M. M.

v/(OeS, «••••••••••• J\t D» o,

DiaiU,* •••••••••••• JlLm Dm Dm

Armenians, A. B. C.

Kickapoos, M. M.

Oregon, M. M.

Ijodiana, G. A. M.

Chickasaws, A. B. B.

Diam,* • •••«•••••• vxix j}« \j,

Chinese, (Bankok,).A. B. C.

Nestorians, A. B. C.

Madura, A. B. C.

Sin^pore, .»••••• .A. B. C.
Pawnee Indians, . . . A. B. C.
Chinese, (Bankok,) . A. B. B.
KyoukPhyoo,> ^B B
(Arracan,) )

West Africa, , A. B. C.

South Africa, A. B. C.

Chinese, (Batavia,).P. E. B.
Abemaquis,. ..... .A. B. C.

Kansas, M. M.

1830.

1831.

1832.

1833.

1834.

1835.
1835.
1835.
1835.
1835.

xlayti,. ....••.•.• .A. J5. D,

Germans,. • • • A. B. B.

Omahas,. A. B. B.

Mahometan, A. B. C.

JViadras,. . ........ .A. B. C

Java,. .......a.... A.% Jja Kj,

Borneo, A. B. C.

Peguans, (Burmah,) A. B. B.
Africa, (C. Palmas,) P. E. B.
irersia, • .....•.••••Jr. jcj. Jd.
Rocky Mount. Ind.A. B. C.
/\.sam, •••.......• »A» Jd. J5.

Teloogoos, A. B. B.

vjrreece,. ..*.••*.. uj\% o, js,

ffapore,) .... 3

AUahabad, G. A. M.

Sabbathu, G. A. M.

Saharanpore, G. A. M.

South Airica, C. M. S.

Mer^, A. B. B.

Ottawas, A. B. B.

Omahas, A. B. B.

Pawnees, A. B. B.

Chinese, (Macao,) . . A. B. B.
Iowa, G. A. M.

gapore,) J

Jalna, (Mahratta,) . . A. B. C.
Nez Perces, > a n r«

(Oregon,) 5 a.h.k^.

Kayuges, (Oregon,) A. B. C.
Dindegal, A. B. C.

Putawatomies. ...... M. M.

Sheragunga, A. B. C.

Teroomumgolum, . .A. B. C.
Terussurranum,.. . .A. B. C.
Puttawatomies, M. M.

vetoes, •.....*..... A.t J). Dm

Chinese, (Singap.). .A. B. B.

835.
835.
835.
836.
836.
836.
836.
836.
836.
836.
836.
836.
836.
836.

836.

836.
836.
836.
837.
837.
837.
837.
837.
837.
837.

837.

837.
837.

837.

837.
837.

838.
838.
838.
838.
838.
838.
838.
839.

' ! i ■ • I
' ■ ' <■ '

; .*. ■ ■

!•!■

GLOSSARY.

To avoid swelling this Glossary unnecessarily, such words as occur but once,
are explained m the body of the work. To make it more useful, some words
are added, which do not occur in the preceding pages, but are often found
in works on India. The following mode of using the vowels is adopted :—

as in ban.

as in here.

as in run.

• • . • bane.

•

• • • • pin.

. • • . rule.

• . . . lar.

. . • • pine.

.... house.

.... fall.

• • • • not.

• • . • note.

Where no accent is marked, the syllables are to be pronounced with equal
force.

^-hac'-usy (called by the Chinese, Sioan-ptoanj) an instrument for
numerical calculation.

M-daVy a Hindu servant who cools and takes care of water.

^-daw-let J justice j equity j a court of justice, civil or criminal.

A^-gar a^-gavy a species of sea-weed, {fucus saccarimis,) of which the

Chinese make a gelatinous sweetmeat, and also a ^ue which

insects do not attack.

A'gil-lo-chay or A-gii-a tooody the same as eagle wood, and lign or lignum
aloes; a hal^rotten, unctuous wood, which in burning emits a
fragrance much valued in the East as a perfume.

Am-ba-lam-b6s, natives of the region of Majunga, in Madagascar.

A-naniy literally, " south country." The whole of south-eastern Siam,
Camboja, and Cochin-China, is sometimes called Anam. Some
maps erroneously set down a separate country under this name.

An-na, a Bengal silver coin, the sixteenth part of a rupee, (about three
cents.)

An-ti'lou-cheSy a mixed race of Arabs and natives, in the Island of
Madagascar, chiefly found near Majunga.

A-re'-cay the betel-nut tree, a species of palm. The betel-leaf is betel-
piper, which is the same genus as the piper nigrum of Linnsus.
Ar'-rack, an intoxicating liquor, generally made from rice.

396 OLOSSART.

jflr-My an Arracan weight of about twenty-five pounds.

JSM-say-wooHf a Barman pajmaater or general.

Ji-tioenrwoan, a Burman miniater of state.

Ji'Vd''ta-ray descents of the Deitj in variona shapes, incamatioiu;

those of Rama and Krishna are the most remarkable.
Ay-akf a lady's or child's maid.

Ba-boOf a Hindu gentleman.

Ba-harff a measure equal to three piculs.

Bal-a-^hong. Same as Gnapte,

Ba-luj a Boodhist warder or guardian. See picture, vol. i. page 13S.

Ban^f an intoxicating drug, prepared, in India, firom the flowers and

juice of the hemp plant ; to which opium is sometimes added.
Ban'-gUs, ornamental rings for the wrists or ankles ; made of varioiiB

metals, or precious stones, according to the wealth of the owner.
Ban-guy boxes, tin oases for carrying clothes, &c., on journeys, made

wiu reference to being borne at the ends of a pole. See pictare

of palankeen travelling, vol. ii. p. 59.

Ban-toil, a Hindu merchant.

Bas'kety a Burman measure containing 5^ pounds of clean rice, or

one bushel.
Bat'ta^ deficiency, discount, allowance to troops in the field.
Borzar, a market, or place of shops.
Be-dorgaty the sacred books of the Burmans.

Be-ga, or Biggahf a land measure equal, in Bengal, to about a third of
an acre, but varying in different provinces ; the common ryotty
bega, in Bengal, contains about sixteen hundred square yards.

Be-gumy or Begaumj an East Indian lady, princess, woman of high
rank.

Ben-zoin, or Benjamin^ the conmiercial name for frankincense.
Betel-leafy the leaf of a species of pepper, (the piper betel) which
is masticated along with the areca or betel-nut and lime.

Be-zoart an oval concretion of resin and bile, found in the glands
and gall-bladders of several animals.

Bhee'-ste, a Hindu water-carrier. See picture, vol. ii. p. 14.

Biche-de-mery dried sea-slugs, or tripang.

Big-gah. See Bega.

Bobf-d-geey a Hindu cook.

Bon'-zeSy a Japanese name for priests.

Boo-kkoOy a Karen prophet.

Bou'-le-dy a small Bengal pleasure-boat.

Brah-min-y goosey the anas casarca.

Brin-jdlSy the solarium longuniy a species of egg plant.

Bud-gc-ro, a large Bengal pleasure-boat.

Bu-giSf (pronounced Boo-geesCy) inhabitants of Bony and Celebes.

They are the universal carriers of the Archipelago, and noted

for enterprise and trust-worthiness.

eLOSSABT. S09

JBundf an embankment.

Bun'-ga-loWf a Hindu country-house, or cottage, erected by Europeans
in Bengal, and well suited to the climate. It is constructed of
wood| bamboos, mats and thatch ; and may be completed in a short
time and at a moderate expense.

Bun-kdl, a Malay weight, equal to 833 gr. troy.

C^f-fre, an unbeliever, Abyssinian or negro.

Ca-Uf or Cof-a, the tenth incarnation of Vishnu, in the shape of a horse
with a human head ; still expected.

Camrpongf a Malay term for an enclosure or collection of houses.

Candf or Canrda-reen' , a Chinese piece of money, equal to ten cash, or
about a penny sterling.

Cmudy. The Bombay candy weighs 560 pounds.

Car-an-chef a Hindu hackney-coach.

Car'da-rmms, or CardamomSf (amomum cardamomum) a spice much
used in India.

Cash, a Madras coin, 80 of which make 1 fanam. It is a Tamul
word.

Caskf a Chinese coin, composed of tu-ten-ag and copper, a thousand
of which are equal to one tael. They call it Le. It has a square
hole in the centre for the convenience of being strung on a twine,
and is cast, not struck with a die.

Cat-a-ma-ran' , a small raft. See description, vol. ii. page 48.

Cat'ty, a Chinese weight of 1| pounds, which they call kin. 84
catties make 1 cwt. 1 pound avoirdupois is equal to | of a catty.

Chac-ra^hur-tyf a title formerly bestowed on the Hindu emperors of
India.

Chank, the conch shell, {voltita gravis.)

Char-^d'Cas, or Shrawvks, a sect of Juns.

Chat'ta'j a Hindu earthen pot.

Chat'tyf a Hindu umbrella-

CkU-lies, red peppers.

Chin-na, the lathyrus aphaca, a plant of the pea or vetch kind.

Chit'ok, a British-Indian weight of 1 oz. 17 dwt. 12 gr.

Chob'daTf a Hindu servant, who runs before a carriage.

Chob'-ioaWf a tributary prince.

ChaV-key, a Hindu toll or custom-house.

Cho-ke-dar', a watchman, or custom-house officer.

ChdV'try, a Hindu caravansera, or empty house for travellers.

Ckopf a Chinese permit, or stamp.

Chopf-per, thatch.

Chop-sticksy Chinese implements for eating.

Chow^'Ty, a brush of feathers, grass, &c., or the tail of a Thibet C0W|
(the hos grunnienSf) used to drive away flies.

300 fiLOSSART.

Chuck-raf a sort of quoit or missile discus, always placed in the hind

of Vishnu.
Cka^'liah, a native of the Coromandel or Malahar coast.
Chu-ruvrnf, lime, used in stucco, for coating, &4i,
Chup-ra^'Se, a messenger.
CoiTy (pronounced kire,) a species of cordage, made ftom the fibres of

the coco-nut husk.

Com-poundf a yard ; corruption of the Portuguese word campania,

Com-prd-dOrf J a Chinese steward or provider.

Coo'-ly, a common porter or laborer.

Coouj the mixture of betel-leaf, arecaruut, and lime, chewed by the
Burmans and Siamese.

Corge, a measure of 40 baskets. In dry goods, it means 20 pieces of
any thing.

Coss, or Koss, about a mile and a half, but varying in difierent parts
of India. It is usually reckoned two miles, but is no where so
much.

Cov-d-dy-coo-ley, a banguy-bearer in the Camatic.

Cov-id, or Ckih, a Chinese measure of various lengths, according to the
epoda measured. The common covid, useiTin measuring ships,
&c., is about 14| inches.

Cov3''ryf the shell of a very small muscle, {eypresa moneta of Lin.) of
which 8000 are equivalent to a dollar at Calcutta, and 10,000 at
Bankok; but the value varies exceedinglv at different times.
They are collected on the Malabar coast, and especially round the
Maldive Islands.

Cris. See Krees.

Coy'-auy equal to 40 piculs, or 4080 lbs. avoirdupois.

Crore. A crore of rupees is 100 lacs, or ten millions of rupees.

Cu-bebsj the small spicy berry of the piper cubeba.

Cum-e-la, a dried fish, prepared in large quantities at the Maldive
Islands. It is probably the boneta.

Cum'-shaio, a present. At Canton, custom has made some cumshaws
matter of right.

Curry J a stew of fowl, fish, or meat, with plenty of gravy, and eaten
with boiled rice. More strictly, the gravy itself is the curry.
Hence they say, " curried fowl," &c. This gravy, or curry,
is made in various ways, but generally of sweet oil, red pepper,
ginger, garlic, and turmeric.

Cutchf (called also Gambiery and Terra Japonica) the inspissated juice
of certain acacias and mimosas. It is chewed in small quantities
with betel. The coarser kinds are used in tanning.

CtUch-a'j mud for building inferior houses.

CtUch'-er-yj a Hindu hall of justice.

Dah, a Burman knife or chopper. It used also as a sword.
Daing, a Burman measure of about two miles.

6L0SSART. 301

DamJ-ar^ a species of pitch, exuded from several sorts of trees in the

East, and used instead of pitch for ships, decks, torches, &c.

Dam-a-tAa2'| the Burman civil code.

Dan^'dy^ a Bengal boatman.

Dawkf or Ddk, a Hindu post; or mail conveyance.

Day-aj or Day-akf one of the original inhabitants of Borneo.

D&-coW, a gang-robber.

Den-nee^ y or At-tap^ a thatch made of palm-leaves.

Dep'-df a Malay measure, equal to two yards.

D^hcf-nyy a Coromandel coasting- vessel, of singular construction.

Din'-gey, or Ding-he^ a Bengal ferry-boat ; with two oars, and a small,
house on the stem.

Din!-gey Wal-Uif a Bengal ferryman.

DiH'geyj a Bengal tailor.

Do'-h€y, a Bengal washerman. See picture, vol. ii. p. 16.

Doit, a I>ut<^ East India coin, the 360th part of a dollar.

Ddng, a Burman measure of about six acres.

Do-ry-an, or Du-ry-an, (durio zebinthinus) a highly-valued fruit, the
size of a man's head, resembling the jack, of wnich a cut is given
vol. i. p. 151.

Drag-on* s-blood, the concrete juice of the calamus rotang, a large

ratan ; made especially in Borneo and Sumatra.
Dur-iDdnff a Bengal porter and watchman.

E.
En'-gy or Eng-heCy a Burman jacket or short gown of muslim

Fd-keeH, a Mahometan devotee or religious mendicant.

Fa^nam'j a Madras coin, in value a fraction more than an anna.
Twelve fanams make one rupee.

Fir-mAn, a royal order or mandate.

Gal-li-vatf a large boat of about seventy tons, rowed with forty or

more oars.
Gam-bier. See Cutch.

Gan-ja, an intoxicating drug, procured firom the hemp seed and flower.
Gan-tangy the 800th part of a coyan, or about five pounds avoirdupois.
Ga-reCf a small Bengal wagon or coach.
Ga-ree-wal-laf a Bengal coachman or driver.

Gen-too, a name derived firom the Portuguese genlio, (which signifies
gentile in the scriptural sense.) Not used by Indians.

Ghaut, a pass through a mountain ; but generally appUed to an exten-
sive chain of huls.

Ghaut, stairs descending to a river.
VOL. IL 26

902 OLOSSART.

Ghee, butter clarified by boiling.

Ghur-ryj a Hindu fortification.

Chui^ee, a condiment for rice, made by Burmans and Siamese, &c.,

of half-salted fish, shrimps, &c., pounded to the consistencj of

mortar. The smell is very repuLsive to Europeans.
Go-down, a factory or warehouse, from the Malay word gadong.
Gof'la, (Hindu,) a public granary.

Goom-tyf winding; the name of many rivers in Hindustan.
Goo-roOy among the Hindus, a spiritual guide.
Go-saings, religious mendicant^ who wander about Hindustan, gen*

eraJly in companies.
Goun-houngy a Burman turban
Grah, a square-rigged Arab coasting- vessel, having a yeiy projecting

stem, and no bowsprit. It has two masts, of which tlie foie-

mast is principal.
Gram, a round grain, the size of maize, used in Bengal as provender

for horses, elephants, &c. There are many yarieties, such as

the red, black, green, &c.
Gri-qua, (pronounced grte'-ka^ a mixed race in South Africa, sprung

from the intercourse of Dutch settlers with native women. The

Dutch call iheva. boLstards ; but the English, disliking that name,

call them Griquas.
Gun-gey a granary »or depot. In gun^s, the chief commodities sold

are gram, and the necessaries of life ; and generally by wholesale.

They often include bazars, where these articles are sold by retail.

It b a very common termination of names in Bengal and some

of the adjacent provinces, and generally applied to a place where

there is water carriage.
Gun-nies, bags made of a coarse cotton fabric ; a species of sackcloth.
Guy-wal'lay a herdman or cow-keeper.

H. j

Hac'-ka-ryj a street cart in Bengal.

Had'-jee, a Massulm^n who has made the pilgrimage to Mecca, and 1
tnere performed certain ceremonies. I

Ha-rantj a separate apartment for females.

HaS'taj a Malay measure, equal to a cubit, or eighteen inches. Four
hastas make one depa.

Hav-il-dar'j a sergeant of sepoys. '

Hop-pOf a Chinese overseer of commerce.
How'-daj a seat on an elephant's back.
Hur-ka'-rUf a Hindu errand-boy, or messenger.

Indo-Briton, a person born in India, one of whose parents is a European.

Jn-dra^ in Hindu mythology, the god of thunder ; a personification of I

the sky ; the chief oi the Devatas and Suras. ,

In'-jeCj a Burman jacket. I

OLOSSART. 903

Jag'gMnff dark| coarse stigar^ made of the joiee of palms.

Jag'hire, (Hindu,) an assignment of the government share of the
produce of a portion or land to an individual, either personal or
for the support of a public establishment, particularly of a mili-
tary nature. The district so assigned.

Joins, a sect of Boodhists in Upper India, particularly numerous in
Gujerat, Rajpootana, and Malwa.

Jee-cUns. Same as Samangs, which see.

Jedy a shallow lake, or morass.

Jet-ty, a wharf, or quay.

Jin, a demon.

Jdg'hee, a Hindu devotee.

Jos, the Chinese Boodh.

JoS'StUks, in China, small reeds, covered with the dust of odoriferous
woods, and burned before idols.

Jum-ba, a Malay measure of just four yards.

Jun-gle, land covered for the most part with forest trees, brush-wood,
creeping plants, and coarse, rank, reedy vegetation, but not
wholly uninhabited. The term is used, in some cases, as equiva-
lent to the word country, as distinguished from villages.

Junk, a Chinese ship. See picture, vol. ii. p. 140.

Kan'-su-ma, a Hindu butler or steward.

Kit-mut-gar' , a head table servant. (Hindu.)

Klam, a Siamese coin, value about one cent.

KLing, the Malay name for a Kalinga, or Teloogoo man.

Ko, Burman title for an elderly man.

Ko-lan', the name of a class of sectaries in Burmah.

Koss. See Coss.

Ko-vil, a Hindu shrine or place of worship.

Krees, or Kris, (pronounced creese,) a Malay dagger.

Ku-W, or Cola, (Burman,) a foreigner.

Kyoung, a Burman monastery. *

Lac, one hundred thousand.

Lap-pet, Burman name for tea. The decoction they call '* tea- water .^*
Las-car, a European term applied to native sailors, called also ca-lash^-e.
Lichi, (pronounced lee-chee,) the scytala lickti, a favorite Chinese

firuit, about the uze of an apricot.
ling-am, an obscene object of Hindu worship.

Lot-dau, the Burman hall of the supreme court ; applied also to the

council itself.
Lout, a Malay word, signifying the sea.

304 OLOSSART.

Ma, Burman title of respect for a middle-aged woman.

Md, or May, title of respect for an old woman.

Mace, an imaginary Chinese coin equal to ten caadSy or the tenth

part of a tael, or fifty-eight grains troy.
Md'driS'Say a college for instruction in Mahometan law.
Mo'ka, great.

Maha-Rajaf a great prince.
Maiky (pronounced mike,) a Burman measure, equal to the breadth of

the hand with the thumb extended.
Ma-lay'd'-lay or Ma-lay-d-Um. Same as MaUJfar,
Man-da-reen, a Portuguese word^ from mandar»U} command ; applied

to Chinese officers of various grades. The Chinese word is

Quan.
MaM'gihsteen, a delicious kind of fruit. See vol. i. p. 152.

Man-grove, in botany, the rhizonhora gymnjorhiza. It abounds chiefly
where the fresn water or streams and rivers intermixes with
that of the ocean. One species extends along the sea-shore,
with its roots growing entirely in salt water.

Manrtnu, charms, incantations, prayers, invocations.

Mat, a Burman weight, equal to 62^ grains troy.

Maund, properly mun, a Bengal weight, now established at 100 pounds
troy, or 82 pounds avoirdupois. In selling different articles, the
weight is different, or used to be. Thus there is a factory maund,
of 7A pounds 10 ounces avoirdupois ) a bazar maund of 82 pounds
avoirdupois ) and a salt maund, 2^ per cent, heavier than the
bazar maund.

May-woon, Burman governor of a province.

Me, Burman title for miss or young girl.

Mee'-ta, or Me'-t'her, a Hindu sweeper.

Me-tra'-ne, a Hindu female sweeper.

Mo-fus-sil, the Hindustanee word for " country " or " interior," as dis-
tinguished from the metropolis.

Mo'-hur, a British-Indian gold coin, value of 15 rupees, weighing 180
grains troy.

Mol-ley, a Hindu gardener.

Moon-she, a Mussulman professor of languages.

Moon-sif, a native judge or justice, whose decisions are limited to suits
for personal property, not exceeding fifty rupees.

Movng, a Burman title of respect to middle-aged men.

Mua, Karen term for middle-aged women, married or single.

Muf-ti, the Mahometan law officer, who declares the sentence.

Mug, a native of Arracan.

Mus-di'-chc, a scullion, a torch-bearer.

Mus-nvd, a throne, a chair of state.

Myen-sa-gye, or Mensagyee, a Burman deputy governor.

Myu-sa-gyc, a Burman mayor or chief of a city.

SLOSSART. 905

Jfa-boh, (pronounced nawaubj) deputy or yiceroj under the Mogrol or
prince.

Jfae-OT^gyCf reporter or secretaiy to the Burman lotdau.

J{dC'<hddr' f the captain of an Arab yeBsel.

Jfagur, JicL^ore, Nuggur^ and Kagara^ a town or city ; the terminar
tion of many East-Indian names.

^a-puf-ej Karen object of worship.

^at, a spirit of the air ; a Burman mjrthological being, of a superior
and happy order.

JfaWf or JfaUf Karen term for miss or young girl.

Jfic'ban, (sometimes pronounced nike-bany) absorption, annihilation.
The supreme and ultimate hope of the Boodhistic religion.

Jftr^va^ruif (Sunscrit,) in metaphysics, a profound calm , signifying also
extinct. The notion attacned to it by the Hindus is that of perfect
apathy ; a condition of unmixed, tranquil happiness or ecstasy. A
state of imperturbable apathy is the ultimate bliss to which tne fol-
lowers of Brahma aspire — a state which can hardly be said to
differ from the eternal sleep or annihilation of the Boodhists.

Jfud-dyy a river, the termination of many names.

Jful-la, an arm of the sea; a natural canal or small branch of a river ;
also a streamlet, rivulet, or water-course.

Oo, an 0I4 man's title of respect. (Burman.)
Or-long, a Malay measure of 80 yards.

Or-pi-ment, a yellow mineral, from which the article called ** kind's
yellow" is prepared. It is a compound of sulphur and arsemc.

Os-wals, a sect of Jain heretics, who eat at night, contrary to the
Jain orthodox usage.

Pad-dyf rice not divested of the husk,

Pa-go-daf a name applied by Europeans to pagan temples, and places
of worship. See explanation, vol. i. p. ^1.

Pa-go-da, a gold coin of the Madras presidency, called varaka by the
Hindus, and koon by the Mahometans. The star pagoda is worth
eight shillings sterling, or $1.85, or three and a lulf Company
rupees.

Paif a Siamese coin, value two cents.

Pakf a Siamese word signifying motUhf debouchure,

Pdl-keCf Bengal name for palankeen.

Pdnck-tcay, a Bengal four-oared boat for passengers.

Pa-pH'-a, a negro of the Eastern Archipelago. '

Par-a-nuU'f a Burman dissenter from Boodhism.

Par-but-ties, mountaineers, hill people.

Pa'-ri-ahj or Pariar, a term used in India by Europeans to designate
the outcasts of the Hindu tribes, and also any thing vUe.

26*

806 fiLOSSAJlT.

Par-see, a descendant of the Guebres, or fiie-worahippera, dmen fiom
Persia by Mahometan persecution, in the eighth centnzy.

Pa'-U, literally uncUy a Karen term, nUher more respectful than Sm8.

PecoUa, a machine for drawing water. See pictme, vol. iL p. G2.

Pee-puirtree, in botany, tbeficus reUgiota.

Pernang, the Malay name of betel-nut.

PtMrinfy a Barman boat-steerer.

Peon, (pronounced pune,) a Hindu constable.

Per-gun-naj a small district or township.

Peg-so, a Burman waist-cloth.

Pet-tah, a town or suburb adjoining a fort ; an eztra-muial suburb

P'kra, god, lord, or noble ; used by Burmans and Siamese in speaking
to a person with great respect.

PV-a-sath, the Burmese name for the spire of a palace or pagoda,
denoting royalty or sacredness.

Piee, a small copper coin, the sixty-fourth part of a rupee.

Pid-ul, 133^ lbs. A Chinese picul is divided into 100 catties, or 1600
taels. The Chinese call it tan.

Pie, the third part of a pice ', about 200 make a rupee, or -fjg of a cent.

Poi-ta, the thread worn over a Brahmin's shoulder, to show his sacred

character.
Pon-ffhee', a Burman priest of the higher orders. The term is given

by courtesy to all the regular priests.

Pore, or Poor, a town, place, or residence ; the termination of many

names in Bengal and the upper provinces.
Pra-chordee, or Pra, a pagoda, temple, &c.
Prow, or Prahu, a Malay boat or vessel.

Pug-ffies, a village tribe, whose business it is to trace thieves by their
rootsteps.

Pum-ple-nose, the shaddock, (citrus decumanus,) a species of orange.
Pun'-dit, a learned Brahmin.

Pun'-ka, a large frame, covered with painted canvass, suspended from
the ceiling. A cord passes through a partition, and the servant,
sitting in an outer room, keeps it in motion like a fan; a fen.

Pn-ran-a, certain Hindu mythological poems.

Put-chuck', the roots of a medical plant, greatly valued in China.

Pway-za', a money-changer. (Hindu.)

Q^al-la, a Malay word signifying the mouth of a river.

Rorhan', a name sometimes given to Burman priests of distinction.
Ra-ja, king, prince, chieftain, nobleman ; a title in ancient times given
only to the military caste.

Raj-bung' -sies, a tribe of mountaineers in Arracan and vicinity.
Raj-poots, (from rnjaputra, the offspring of a king,) a name which.

OLOSSART. a07

■tnctljr speakinffy ought to be limited to the higher claflsee of
the military tribe, but which is now assumed on very slender
pretences.

Ban-ny, (corruption ofrajiUf) a queen, princess, the wife of a raja.

Rhoom, a hall of justice, or a magbtrate's court, (pronounced bj the
Burmans, y6ng.)

Roo-ee, a fish of Bengal, the rohit cypritms,

Ru-pee, silver coin of British India. The Sicca rupee is 47 cents 2^
mills. The new, or Comvany rupee, weighs 180 grains troy,
or one tola, has one twelfth alloy, and is worth 444^ cents. It
is equal to the Madras, Bombay, Arcot, Furukabad, and Sonat
rupees, and to fifteen sixteenths of the Sicca rupee.

Rut^k, (pronounced ruty) a carriage on two low wheels, drawn by
bullocks.

Ry-ot, or Riot, a Bengal peasant, cultivator, or subject.

Sago-tree, {sdgu, Malay,) in botany, the palmafarinifera.
Saib, or Sahib, (pronounced sibe,) a respectful appellation in Hindu-
stan ; literally, lord, or master.
Sa-lam', a Hindu salutation of respect ', also used as an act of worship.
Sdm-anga', negroes of the Malay peninsula, mixed with Malays.
Sam-pan, a Chinese skiff, or batteau.
Sam-sams, Mahometan aborigines of part of Malaya.
SCL-ny-as'-sies, Hindu devotees and mendicants.

Sap-an' wood, a wood employed for dyeing a fine red or deep orange ',

in botany, the ccesalpinia sappan.
Saw, Karen term of respect, equivalent to " Mr.*'

Se-bun-dy, an irregular native soldier, or local militiaman, generally
employed in the service of the revenue and police.

Seer, a British-Indian weight, equal to 21bs. 6oz., and nearly equal to
the French kilogramme.

Seids, descendants of Mahomet, through his nephew Ali and his
daughter Fatima.

Sepoy, or smahi, (Persian and Turkish,) a native infantry soldier
m the British service. The sepahies of the Turks are cavalry.

Serai, a Hindu caravanserai or choultry, thus named by the Mahom-
etans.

Ser-d-daw-gye' , a Burman secretary or goverrmient writer.

Se-rang', a sort of mate among lascars.

Ser-e-dau', a Burman secretary to a great man.

Shd-bun-der, a master attendant, or harbor-master, and generally the
king's agent and merchant.

SkaS'tras, or Sdstras, an inspired or revealed book ; also any book of
instruction, particularly such as contain revealed ordinances.

Shad-dock, the pumplenose, a huge, bitter orange.
Sliea, Shias, or Shiites, a sect of Mussulmans, followers of Ali.
Sher-eef, or Skerriffe, a descendant of Mahomet through Hassan. See
Seids.

806 COiOSSART.

Skuf'kOf the obeisance made bj Burmaiui to an idol. The palms of the
hands are placed together, and solemnly raised to the forehead.
According to their feelines, the head is bowed down at the same
time, sometimes quite to Sie earth.

Ski-^Ls. See Sheas,

fiAin-frm, a teak plank or beam, three or four inches thick.

Shoo-draSf (pronounced gu-drasj) a low caste.

Skrofff a Hindu money-changer, or banker.

Shrub-dar, a Hindu butler.

Skyans, or Shans, inhabitants of the Laos country, a region enclosed
between China, Siam, Burmah, and Asam.

Singh, a lion ; a distinctive appellation of the khetries, or military
caste, now assumed by many barbarous tribes converted by the
Brahmins.

Sir-car, a Hindu clerk or writer.

Sir-dar, a chief, captain, leader.

Si-va, or Mahadeva, the third person of the Hindu triad, in the char-
acter of destroyer ; he is a personification of time.
Som-mo-na-Co''dom, the priest Gaudama.

Son-nites, ot Soonee, a sect of MassulmAns, who revere equally the
four successors of Mahomet, while the Shias, Sheas, or ^ites
reject the first three as usurpers, and follow All.

Sou-ba-darf, a viceroy or governor of a large province j also the title of
a native sepoy officer, below an ensign, though the highest rank
he can attain.

Srd'Wuks, or Chawacas, the laity of the Jain sect.
Star pagoda. A, Madras coin, equal to 3^ rupees, or $1,71.
Sa-cu, a nominal Malay coin of 6 fanams, or 60 doits.
SU'Cun'-ne, a Bengal boat-steerer.

Sud'der, the chief seat or head-quarters of government, as distin-
guished from the mofussU, or interior of the country.

Sud-der-Ameen, the highest native judge of a Hindu court.

Sud-der De-wa-ny A-daw-let, the highest native court.

SU'dra, the fourth caste among the Hindus, comprehending mechan-
ics and laborers. The subdivisions of this caste are innumerable.

Sum-pit, a long, slender reed, or bamboo, through which the Malays
blow arrows, in war and the chase.

Sur-dar, a head bearer. (Hindu.)

Su-ri-ans, the Hindu name for the Nestorians, or Christians of St.
Thome.

Sut-ties, self-burning of widows.

Swan-pwan, the Chinese abacus or calculating machine.

Syce, a Hindu hostler, or groom.

Sy-cee', (properly se-ze,) a Chinese term for silver of a certain purity.

Ta'-eZ, (pronounced tale,) a Chinese piece of money, equal to about 6
shillings sterling, or $1,48; but its value varies, according to the
plenty or scarcity of silver. In weighing, it is the sixteenth of a

OLOSSART. 909

picul. Bj usage, the tael of commerce is 583}, and that of money

579j| grains troy. The Chinese call it Itang.

Taing, a Burman measure of 2 miles and 194 yards.

Tank, an artificial pond of water. Some tanks are very large.

Ttai-jongj a Malay word signifying a point, cape, or head of land.

Tan-na, (oflen spelled thannaj) a police station ; also a military post

Tan-na-darf the keeper or commandant of a tanna.

Tatf-ty, a mat curtain. (Hindu.)

Tee, an umbrella, surmounting Boodhist pagodas ; ordinarily made of
sheet iron, wrought into open-work, and gilded. Round the rim,
small bells are suspended, to the clappers of which hang, by short
chains, sheet-iron leaves, also gilaed. The wind, moving the
pendent leaves, strikes the clappers against the bells, and keeps
up a pleasant chime. See picture of Tavoy.

Te-mine'f a Burman woman's skirt or frock.

Tha-then-orhyng, Burman supreme pontiff.

Thugs, (pronounced tug^ a notorious class of gang-robbers and mur-
derers, in the upper provinces of Hindustan.

TU-6V. A Siamese tical is about 60 cents. A Burman weight equal
to 252 grains troy. Thirteen Burman ticals equal fifteen Com-
pany rupees.

Tif-fin, a slight midday repast ) a lunch.

Tinf'dal, a petty officer among lascars.

Tod'-dy, the juice of the borassus flabdliformis, (palmjrrartree.)

Tod'-dy-tree, a species of palm, yielding a copious sap, (toddy,) which, if

drank fresh, is nutritious, out after fermentation becomes highly

intoxicating. The inspissated juice is jaggery,

Tom-hac, an article of Eastern commerce ; native copper, mixed with
a little gold.

Ton-jons, a species of sedan chair.

Topas, an Indian-Portuguese.

Tope, a Hindu grove ', a Coromandel vessel.

Tri-pang', the Malay term for Biche-de-mer.

Tsal-o-ay', a golden necklace of peculiar construction, worn only by

the Burman monarch and the highest nobility, and indicating

rank by the number of its chains.
Tu'-arif sir, or gentleman. (Malay.)
Tu'ten-dg'. This name seems differently applied, sometimes to the

mixture of copper and zinc of which the Chinese <' cash " are

made, and sometimes to the white copper of China.

IP-ze-na, a Burman measure of twelve miles.

Vai-stt-a, (vulgarly pronounced byce,) the third caste among the

Hindus, comprehending merchants, traders, and cultivators.
Vd-hedf an ambassador, agent, or attorney.

310 ojosiaet.

Vidf or Fa-ia, iciencef knowledge ; the nered books of the Bnhmmi-
cal Hindui, four m number, Rig, Sama, Tajur, and Atburan.

Fe-ioft-ta, a lummaiy and exposition of the Veda.

Vt'Tanf'day a portico.

Vi$s, a Barman weight of 3^^^ pounds. This is the English
name ; the Burmans call it puUMa.

Waif a Siameae term for a sacred place, within which are pagodas,

monasteries, idols, tanks, &c.
Wee, a Karen wizard or juggler, less respected than a Boo-khoo.
Woon-4ouk\ a Barman officer, next below a woongyee.
Woon-gyee', a Burman minister of state.

Yex-a-tkat', a written collection of Burman law decisions.

Yo-gee, (same as Jogee,) a Hindu devotee.

YOng, or Rkoom, a Burman court-house, or hall of justice.

Zayf-aty a Burman caravanserai, or public house, where traveDen
repose, and meetings are held.

Zem-in-dar, a great renter of land from government, who underlets to
tenants, who aeain let to others. He is a trader in produce on a
large scale. The zemindar system prevails in many parts of
British India, but is a system exceedingly burdensome to the
peasantry.

Zem-in-dar', a great landholder. (Hindu.)

Zem-in-dar'-yf an estate belonging to or under the jurisdiction of a
zemindar.

Zil-lakf a large district.

INDEX.

Absurdities of Hmdu literature, ii.

25.
Abject forms of politeness in Siam, iL

114; 117.
Abors, ii. 211.
Acajou. See Casliew.
Accession of present king of Bur-

mah, i. 142.
Additional labors of missionaries, ii.221.
Ahoms, ii. 212.
Akas, ii. 214.
Akyab, situation, i. 120: commerce,

population, etc. 121.
Albatross, {diomeda extUans,) i. 24; 25.
Alms deeds, Boodbistical scale of, 249.
Alchemy, fervent pursuit of, i. 236.
Alompra, commences revolt, i. 135:

becomes king, 136.
Alphabet, Roman, to be preferred, ii.

Amber mines in Burmah, ii. 176.
Amount accomplished by missions, ii.

232.
Amusements, Burman, i. 202.

, Siamese, ii. 126.

Anatto, {bixa oreUaruif) i. 165.
Andaman Islands, [InsiUcB Bon<s For-

ttmce.,) i. 33.
Anglo-Chinese College at Malacca, ii.

98.
Annoyances in coasting-vessels, i. 53.
AnthropophagL i. 33.
Archipelago of Arracan, i. 129.
Architectural skill of Burmans, i. 180.
Arings, ii. 208.
Arm, singular position of, in sitting, i.

185; ii. 118.
Army, Burman, i. 228 : character of

troops, 229 : British army in India,

ii.79; 290: of Siam, 126.
Arracan, i. 125.
Arrival at Amherst, i. 35.
Arungs, i. 129.

Artificial irrigaUon in the Camatic, ii.
62.

Asamese, ii. 210.

Ascending the Hoogly. ii. 31.

■ Irrawaddy, i. 85.

Assayers of precious metals, i. 207.

Astronomy, Burman, i. 235.

, Hindu, ii. 25.

Attap, material of, i. 154.

Aurea Chersonensis, i. 29.

Ava, first sight of, i. 95 : distance from
Rangoon^ 96 : ground plot, 97 : sa-
cred edinces, §8 : no charitable in-
stitutions, 98 : magnificent monaste-
ries, 98 : pagodas, 99 : number of
priests, 99 jpalace, 99 : gentleman's
carriage, 100 : population, 100 : man-
ufactures, 101 : market, 101 : prices
of living, 101 : visits to the great,
102 : sitting ** h la mode" 103 :
mathematical argument, 103 : Mea-
wade woongyee, 103 : Surrawa
prince, 105 : Thathenabyng, or su-
preme pontiff, 105 : garden, 106 :
visit from Dupha Gam, 106 : cli-
mate, 107 : commencement of mis-
sionary efforts^ 107 : Pr. Price, 108 :
advantages for tract distribution,
109: Roman Catholics, 111 : king's
barge, 113 : populousness of the re-
gion, 115: departure from, 115.

Balachong, i. 224.

Ball of fire on mast head, i. Si,

Balu Island, i. 56.

Bamboo, {anmdo bamboSf) i. 166.

Bamoo, ii. 177.

Banana^ {musa sapientunif) i. 154.

Banca, li. 181.

Bankok, floating houset, ii. 1 15 : popu-
lation, 120 : climate, 121 : sacred
edifices, 122: fruits, 129: mission
premises, 134.

312

Baimian, or pipal, [Jktu refij^uwo,) i
160.

Baptism at Ko Chet Thiiig's TiUage,
i. 64.

Bedagat, i. 243.

Bells, inode of casting, in Bonaah,
L 909 : immense size, 209.

Benevolent Institiitioo al Caleatta,
iL19.

Bengalee airs, ii. 38.

•^^— ^ tracts, ii. 234.

Betel, {areea caUcku,) i. 154 : mode of
chewing, 185 : picture of the tree,
ii. 134.

Bbeesiie, or wp.ter-earriery iL 14.

Bible class at sea, i. 15.

Biblical literature indebted to misn<Hi>
aries, ii. 234.

Bijnees, ii. 210.

Bbookoo, or Karen profit, L 54.

Bicbe de mer, i. 224.

Bike. See Mergid,

Birth of Gaudama, i. 134.

Bishop's Colle^ at Calcutta, ii. 20.

Black pepper mdigenous in Bnnnah,
i. 171.

Boarded by a slaver, ii. 170.

Boardman^s grave, i. 132.

Boats OD the inrawaddy, i. 84.

Bong, ii. 202.

Boobv, {pelicamu stiia,) i. 21.

Boodh, meaning of the term, i. 239 :
the next BooSi, 243.

Boodhism, first taught at Pagfaan, i.
94 : declining in Arracan, 128 :
when introduced into Burmah, 134:
prevalence in the world, 239 :
antiquity, 240: remarks upon the
system, 270.

Books, palm-leaf, i. 234.

Bootah, i. 58.

Bootcas, ii. 214.

Bor-abors, ii. 212.

Bor-kantees, ii. 213.

Brahminism, antiquity, i. 240.

character, ii. 76.

Brahmins, ii. 78.

Brgiss, Barman manufacture of, i. 209.

British Indian society, ii. 111.

' possessions in India, and trea-

ties, ii. 289; 291.

army in India, ii. 79 ; 290.

Broraha Sobha, ii. 30: fniitlessness

of, 32.
Buifalo of Burmah, Siam, and China,

i. 173.
Bungalow preaching, at Calcutta, ii.36.
Burmah ; different names, i. 134 :

boundaries, 134 : seats of govern-
ment, 134; 136 : histoir of, 136 : at-
tacked hj Chinese, 136 : war witfa
the English, 140 : makes peace with
the Ei^lish^ 141 : features of coun-
try, 143 : chmate, 144 : seasons, 144:
mountains, 146 : minerals, 146 : eoM
and sflver mines, 146 : rivers, 150 :
soil, 160 : fruits and timbers, 151 :
dye-woods, 166: tillage, 167: wa-
ges of labor, 168 : wild animals, 172 :
domestic animals, 173: ornithology,
174: reptUes, 175: fishes, 175: a-
sects, 176 : population, 178.
Burmans; ship-building, i. 76: eaa-
r^, 81 : boatmen. 90 : ^pood temper,
90 : herdsmen, 94 : curiosity at see-
ing a white maa^ 96 : ox-cart, 96:
eentleman's carnage, 100: ui^s
barge, 113 : villages, 117 : chronol-
ogy, 134: common era. 135: form
and features, 178: buildings, 179:
food, 181 : dress, 182 : ornament^
183: manners and customs, 184:
character, 187 : condition of women,
193 : marriage, 194 : polygamy,
194 : divorce, 196 : diseases, 195 :
medical practice, 197: midwifeiy,
198 : funerals, 199 : amusements,
202 : musical instruments, 203 : man-
ufactures, 206: government, 211:
orders of^ nobility, 212 : grades of
community, 212 : magistracy, 213 :
laws, 216 : ai vision of property, 221 :
revenue, 222 : commerce, 223 : cur-
rency, 227 : army, 228 : navy, 229:
slavery, 230 : division of time, 231 :
weights and measures, 232 : lan-
guage^ 233 : literature, 234 : derree
of civilization, 236 : religion, 239.

Calantan, ii. 106.

Calcutta, landing at, ii. 11 : English
houses, 12 : native town, 13 : Bbees-
tie, 14 : washerman, 16 : charitable
institutions, 18 : education commit-
tee, 22 : colleges, 23 : native news-
papers, 28 : school-book society, 28:
religious edifices, 29 : Bromha Sob-
ha, 30 : tract society, 234.

Candidates for the Burman crown,
i. 140.

Canoes, dexterous mode of excava-
ting, i. 206.

Canton, appearance of, ii. 145 : popu-
lation, Iw : foreign factories, 146 :
walks in suburbs, 147 : streets, 147 :
shops, 148 : traaes, 149 : beggars,

INDEX.

313

150 : place of execution, 151 : hong
merchants' residence, 153 ; temples,
154 : priests and nuns, 155 : state
of morals among foreigners, 158 :
benevolent institutions, 159 : hospi-
tal, 161.

Cape of Good Hope, arrival at, ii. 168 :
situation, streets, population^ 168:
clergymen, and cnaritable mstitu-
tions, 169.

Cape weather, i. 24.

Capital punishment, methods of, i. 218.

Caravans of Shyans, i. 92 : from Chi-
na, 225 : from Lao, ii. 177 5 226 :
to Thibet, 176.

Card-playing, rare m the East. i. 203.

Cashew, lanarcardium occiaenlale,)
i. 156.

Catamaurans, ii. 48.

Caves on the Dagaung and Salwen
Bivers, i. 61.

Cedar^ abundant in Munipore, i. 163.

Celestial regions, i. 245.

Chakmas, ii. 208.

Champooing, Burman mode of, i. 197.

Change of feeling in regard to mis-
sions among Europeans in India,
ii. 34.

Character of Brahmins and Brahmin-
ism, ii. 76 : Siamese, 129.

Charitable institutions of Calcutta,
ii. 18; 35.

Charms, inserted under skin, i. 186.

Cheroots, how made, i. 186.

Cheduba, i. 124.

Chess, Eastern mode of, i. 203.

Chewing betels, i. 135.

Children, mode of carrying, i. 185:
treatment of, in Burmah, 189 : rev-
erence to parents, 190.

Chilly, or red pepper, great consump-
tion in Burmah, i. lol.

China, outer pilots, ii. 14^ : river boats,
144 : jos, 145 ; 158 : popuiousness
of, 144 : small-footed women, 151 :
tombs, 152: temple, 154: pagoda,
156 : sects, 157 : opium trade, 159 :
missions, 160 : missions without the
empire, 175 : versions of Scripture,
182 : tracts, 183 : written and spok-
en language, 184 : mode of printing,
185: difficulties of the language,
186 : characters, 186 : helps in stud-
ying the lan^age, 187: how far
open to missions, 166 : authors up-
on, 188 : without excuse for its
idolatry, 189.

Chinese procession at Maulmain, i.
59 : residents at Umerapoora, 114 :
at Sagaing, 112 : attack Burmah

VOL. II. 27

unsuccessfully, 136: geography, ii.
149.

ChinJndia, i. 133.

Chitpore schools, ii. 19.

Chittagong, location, i. 118 : popula-
tion, &c. 1 19 : revenue, 1 19.

Christ the pattern for missionaries,
ii. 267.

Christian villages in Bengal, ii. 41.

Christianity obviously spreading in
Hindustan, ii. 42.

Chronology of Burmah, i. 236.

Churning, Bengal mode of, ii. 47.

Cinnamon, (hunts cinnaTnomumf) i.
158.

Civilization, degree of, in Burmah,
i. 236.

•^—^^— compatible with cheap-
ness, ii. 266.

Clarionet, Burman, i. 205.

Cleaning cotton, mode of, i. 208.

Clearness of the tropical atmospherCi-
i. 22, 24.

Climate of Ava, i. 107 : Burmah, li44 :
Bankok, ii. 121.

Cock-fighting, i. 203.

Coco-nut, {cocos nucifera,) i..l52.

Coal found in Burmsui, i. 148.

Coins of Siam, ii. 128.

Coir. See Coya.

Colleges in Bengal, ii. 22: character
of, 25.

Collateral labors of missionaries, ii.
220.

Colman, Mr. i. 120.

Combaconum, ii. 63..

Comet, i. 18, 22.

Comforts of East Ind^a coasters, ii. 82.

Commerce of Tavoy, i. 40 : of Mer-
gui, 48 : of Maulmain, 65 : of
Kangoon, 74 : of Akyab, 121 :
of Kyouk Phyoo, 122; 123: of
Burmah, 223 : Slam, ii. 127.

Committee of education, ii. 22 : policy
changed, 25.

Companpr at seat, i. 22, 25, 26.

Companson between tlie number of
missionaries and that of ministers at
home, ii. 286.

Comprehensiveness of religious sym-
pathy, ». 13.

Concentration of effort, ii. 283.

Conjuring practised by medical men
in Burman, i..l97.

Converts to Christianity, ii. 240.

Convict ship, i. 18.

Coon, how compounded, i. 185.

Coral strands, i. 130.

Cork-tree of Burmah, i. 164.

Cosmetic of Bnrmans;.!. 184.

314

UfDEZ.

Cosmoffon^ of ibe Bedagat, i. 243.

Cossyan, ii. S06.

Costume of Bunnans, i. 183 : of Siam-

ese, U. 126 : of Cbinese^ 143.
Cost of Oriental priotinr, li. 262.
Cotton, kinds rai^ in Bunnah, i. 168 :

seeds used for food, 169: amount

exported, 224.
Courts of justice, Maulmain, i. 72.
Cox's bazar, Cfaittagong, i. 120.
Coya, or Coir, material of, i. 152.
Cradle, Burman and Siamese, i. 185.
Crossii^ the line^ i. 20.
Cruscool River, i. 120.
Cuddalore, ii. 61.
Currency, Burman, i. 227.
, Siamese, ii. 128.
Custard apple, {atmona squamosa,) i.

156.
Cutch-tree, {ndmosa cateekUf) i. 161.

|>amathat, i. 216.

Dancing, Burman, i. 202: deemed a
drudgery, 203.

Dead bodies in the HooHy, ii. 11.

Decorous and bospital>ie treatment,
i.39.

Departure from United States, i. 13 :
for Tavoy and Mergui, 38 : from
Maulmain, 73 : from Ranffoon for
Ava, 84: from Ava, 115: from Cal-
cutta, 118 : from Arracan, 131 : from
Madras, ii. 81 : from Malacca, 94 :
from Singapore, 112: from Siam,
141 : from China, 167 : from Cape
of Good Hope, 170.

D'hanoos, ii. 202.

Difference between jungle and forest,
i. 143.

Difficulties of direct preaching, ii. 270.

Disadvanta£es of modem missiona-

nes, II.

Discourses of Gaudama, i. 250.
Disinterestedness of missionaries, as

exemplified by Colman, i. 120.
Disputations undesirable, ii. 274.
Division of labor, ii. 282.
- of property in Burmah, i. 221.

Divorce, i. 195.

Doctrines of Boodhism, i. 247.
Domestic animals, i. 172.
Doorga Pooja, festival, ii. 17.
Doubling Cape of Good Hope, i. 27.
Downward tendency of idolatry, ii.

224.
Drama, Burman, i. 202.
Driving away the devil, i. 52.
Drums, Burman, i. 204. |

Duflas, or Duplas, li. 214.
Dupha Gam, visit from, i. 106.
Durban, {dwrio xebethhmSf) i. 1501
Dyemg, Burman process, i. 206.
Dye^tufls of Bunnah, i. 166.

£.

Eagle wood, {aqmUaria agtdhehmy)

i. 164.
Earthen ware. Burman, i. 906.
Earth-oil wells on the Irrawaddr, L

91.
Ebony, {dwspunu ebemtmf) i. 161.
Eccabat Kulahs, ii. 20S.
Economy in missionary operations bh

dispensable, ii. 267.
Edible roots of Bunnah, i. 159.
Education, rudiments of^ widdy <fif-

fiised in Burmah, i. 235.

— of native children by ni
sionaries, ii. 250.

of native assistants, ii. 578.

expectations frcHn, iL 271

Effect of missions on Earopcm

abroad, ii. 240.
^ on the ehnrehes at

home, ii. 244.
Efforts for sailors, i. 19.
Elephant, awkward present of, ii. 1 19.
Emoalming, Burman mode of, i. 199.
Employment of time, i. 16.
Encounter between a whale and a

thresher, i. 27.
Encouragements among the Karais,

i.46.

- in the missions at

lar^e, ii. 174.
English chapel at Maulmain, i. 35.
influence on BurmaJi, i. 71.

language extending in Ben*

gal, ii. 27.

army in Hindustan, ii. 79.

-, value of, to native assistants,

ii. 279.
Engyees, ii. 203.
Enormous shark, i. 28.
Epoch of Anjina, i. 134.
Era, Burman, i. 231.
Erroneous labors of missionaries,ii.221.
European life in India, ii. 112.
morals in India improved, ii.

240.
Evening walks at Maulmain, i. 67.
Excellence of Burman boatmen, i. 90.
Excursions into interior of Burmah,

i.60.
Expenses of my mission, ii. 172.
Expert mode of climbing, i. 95.
Exports of Burmah, i. 224.

INDEX.

3t5

ts of Siam, ii. 128.

loos from the Karens, i. 80.

— » of Burman rulers, 213.

: of idolatry shaken, ii. 239.

aim, represented in landscape

?avoy.

ir India, i. 133.

>f robbers, i. 117.

al, annual, at Saugor Island,

•

ities of the Burman new year,
I.

Sabbath in Burmah, i. 35.
igbt of idolaters, i. 31.
'rotestant church in Siam, ii. 138.
of Burmah, i. 175.
Bg houses at Bankok, ii. 115.
r fish, i. 21.

>ali, novel mode of, i. 203.
lly lizards, i. 53.
of Burmah, i. 150 : value com-
sd with those of our country,

for education in Bengal, iL 22.
als, Burman^ i. 198.
— , Hindu, iL 16.

oge, {garcinia cambcjaj) i. 165.
a reach, on the Hoogly River,

sn vegetables in Burmah, i. 159.
«vs, or Garros, ii. 206.
ima, birth, i. 134: parentage,
: Burman representation, 2lz :
th, 242: discourses, 250: im-
isions of his foot, 254: Chinese
esentation, ii. 15o.
al Assembly's school at Calcut-
i. 18.

08, or Telogoos, u. 56.
g, excellence of Burman, i. 207.
not made in Burmah, i. 210.
ie, how made, i. 224.
and silver mines of Burmah,
5.
humor of Siamese, ii. 116.

composition of, and mode of
ing, i. 204.
s, 11. 210.
ag not practised by Burmans,

ide of Karen Christians, i. 46.

— rare with Burmans, i. 190.

— destroyed bv Boodhism, 271 .
y, Burman, i. 190.

Great pagoda at Ran^;oon, i. 75.

Guava, ItmoUum j>onu/erum,) i. 155.

Guitar, JBurman, i. 204.

Gunga Saugor, ii. 8.

Gunpowder, process of making, in

Burmah. i. 208.
Gutzlaff, ii. 164.

Harbors of Burmah, i. 223.

Hardships of Judson and others at
Ava, 1. 140.

Harp, Burman, i. 205.

Harpooning a porpoise, L 24.

Heber's death, li. o8 : grave, ib.

Hells, Burman, i. 246.

Higher classes to be regarded, iL 285.

Hindu astronomy, ii. 25.

chemistry, ii. 26.

character, ii. 77.

College at Calcutta, ii. 23.

literature, specimen of, ii. 25.

^— edifices in Calcutta, ii. 29.

^— gentleman's carria^, ii. 50.

History of Burmah, i. 135.

of Siam, u. 124.

Hither a&d Farther India, i. 133.

Hniking, or Burman champo^HJOffy i-
197. , ^^

Home expenses of missionary opera-
tions, ii. 231.

Hoogly (or Mahomet Muhsin's) Col-
lege, ii. 24.

Hoogly River, ii. 7: Hindu voaera^
tion of, 9 : scenery, 9.

Horses, breed of, in Burmah^ i. 173.

Hospitality of the Burmans, 1. 188.

Hostility of Indian jg^overnments to
missionary efibrts, ii. 228.

Houses in Burmah, construction, cost,
and durability, i. 119 : rank indica-
ted by the roof, 180.

Idolaters, first sight of, i. 31.

Idolatry supoorted by British govern-
ment, ii. T% : countenanced m vari-
ous modes, 73.

niustrations of Scripture, John 13.10,
i. 184.: 2 Kings 19.26, 173: Deu-
teronomy 32.5, ii. 21 ; 52 : Revela-
tions 5.1 , i. 234 : Psalms 68.5, and
Jeremiah 8.17, ii. 51 : 1 Kings
18.46, ii. 52 : ProveriM 21.1, u. 68.

Impressions of Gaudama's foot, i. 89 $
266.

Incentives to increased missionary
exertion, ii. 173.

316

lADEX.

India, derivation of the tenn, i. 133.

Indian Archipelago, i. 134.
■ corn in Buraiah, i. 170.

^— - Female Orphans' Refuge, ii. 20.

— — Portuguese, the class defined,
ii. 96.

Indigo^ wild, in Burmah, i. 171.

Inquisitiveness of Burmans, i. 190.

Insects of Burmah, i. 176.

Institutes of Menu. i. 216.

Interestingcase oi inquiry, i. 81.

Iron ore, Burman mode of smelting,
i. 209.

Itineracies, ii. 273.

Irrawaddy, voyage up, i. 84 : boats,
84 : my boat, ^ : high stage of wa-
ter, 86 : tract distribution upon, 96 :
mode of fishing, 87 : change of land-
scape, 89: astonishiner number of
boats, 89 : boatmen, 90 : earth- oil
wells, 91 : perils from squalls, 96 :
robbers, 96 : descending voyage,
1 15 : sources, 148.

Irrigation in Burmah, i. 169.

Islamabad. See ChiUagong.

Jack, {artocarpus inte^rif'olia,)A. 151.

Jaggery, how made, i. 155.

Jewelry, Burman, i. 206.

Joomeas^ ii. 208.

Johore, ii. 104.

Judson, Mr., personal appearance, i. 56:
residence, 72 : sufferings at Ava, 140.

Judson's, Mrs., grave, i. 36.

Jun&^le, different from forest, i. 143.

Junk Ceylon, seized by Burmans,
i. 138.

Justice, administration of, at Maul-
main, i. 72. •

Jynteah, ii. 206.

Kachar, ii. 205.

Kadoos, ii. 202.

Kahpah, i. 46.

Kahs, ii. 200.

Kah-Kyens, ii. 204.

Kalinga, orTelinga, ii. 56.

Kantees, or Khantecs, ii. 205 ; 212.

Karen, churches, i. 46 ; ii. 193 : books,
i. 47 : Christians, 43 : language re-
duced to writing, 43 : modes of liv-
ing, ii. 194 : religion, 196.

Karennccs, ii. 201.

Kashew. See Cashew.

Keda, or Qiicda, ii. 102.

Kedgeree, i. 32.

Khantees^ or Kantees, ii. 906.

Kirauts, it. 210.

Kissing, singular mode ^of, i. 186.

Klings, Kalmgas, or C^entoos, iL SB,

Kolitas, ii. 212.

Kookies, or Kunghis, ii. 909.

Kubos, ii. 210.

Kullacline River, i. 120 3 196.

Kumaons, or Kumoons, u. 209.

Kunungs, ii. 213.

Kyendwcen River, i. 149.

KyenS,i. 129; ii.203.

Kyouk Phyoo, i. 122.

Kyoungs, 1. 261.

Labor, price of, in Burmah^ i. 168.

Lac. from what produced, 1. 166.

Lackered ware, superiority of Burmaa,
and mode of manufacture, i. 206.

Lalongs, ii. 207.

Lamps, classical model of, i. 206.

Language of Burmans, i. 233.

Languages reduced to writing by
missionaries, ii. 233.

— — — yet without the Scriptures,
ii. 262.

Lao, or Shyan countr^^ ii. 198.

Lapchas, or Sikhims, ii. 214.

Lawas, ii. 201.

Laws of Burmah, i. 218.

Laymen wanted in the missionary fidd,
ii. 287.

Leper hospital at Calcutta, ii. 22.

Leprosy, i. 196.

Letters from Karen pupils, i. 45.

Lignum aloes, or Eagle-wood, i. 164.

Ligore, ii. 106.

Lintin, ii. 143.

Lion, curious representation of, i. 253.

Literature, Burman, i. 234: Hindu,
ii.25: Chinese, 149 3 189: of pagans
generall}', 215: bestowed by mis-
sionaries, 234.

Literary institutions in Burmah, i. 235.

Lives lost in scientific enterprises,
ii. 230.

Lizards, service of, i. 53 .

J varieties, i. 177.

Longevity of Burmans. i. 195.

Loom, construction ana mode of using
in Burmah, i. 208.

Lying, universal with Burmans, i. 191.

Macao, aspect, condition, and sight,
ii. 162 : history, 163 : concert ol
prayer, 165: hospital, 166.

niDsx.

317

Ifaekerel fifhing-. i. 14.

Madras, exposed harbor, ii. 48 : land-
ingf 49 : esplanade, fiO : popalation,
61 : temperature^ fiS : missions; 54.

Magellan clouds, i. 22.

Mafiogaay, fowid near Ava,i. 162.

Mahometaa College, or Madressa,
ii.23.

Malacca^ it. 95 : missionaries, 97 : e<A-
lege, 98.

Mango, {man^/era uMfiea,) i. 152.

Mangosteen, 1. 151.

Mar^e quarries near Ava, i. 102.

Marian, (mangi/era opposUifoHaf) i.
155.

Marriage, when contracted, L 194:
how solemnized, 194.

Martintere at Calcutta, ii. 22.

Mata village and church, i. 41.

MattbeCj i. 80.

Maulmain, i. 64 : evening walks, ^ :
establishment of the mission, 68 :
printing-oflSce, 69 : schools, 70 : let-
ter from a pupil, 70.

Malay peninsula, iL 101 : negro tribes
of, 102: missions, 109: language
and translations, 110.

Malays, orispu and history, ii. 100 : re-
ligion ana character, 107.

Measure of missionary success, ii.
217.

Measures of Burmah, i. 2^, 233.

Meawa'de, woongyee at Ava, i. 103.

Mechanical faeUiUes at missionary
stations, ii. 236.

Medical College of Bengal, ii. 24.

— — — — missionaries, it. 161 ; 263.

-— — ^ men in Burmah, i. 197.

Meekeers, or Mikirs, ii. 211 »

Meerees, or Miris, ii. 211.

Meinam River, ii. 113.

Mekara prince, at Ava, i. 102.

Menankaho, ii. 100.

Menderagyee^ ascends the thriMie, i.
137: religious zeal, 138: perse-
cutes the priests, 138.

Mengoon pagoda, i. 113: whoi eom-
menced, 1§3.

Mergui, city of, i. 48 : population, 49 :
conquered by Burmans, 136.

Merit, Boodhistical, i. 249.

Midwifery, singular practice of, i. 198.

MiKitary force of Siamese, it 126.

Mineral riches of Burmah, i. 145.

Ministers, supply of, in England, ii.
286.

Bfishmees, ii. 212.

Misrule of Burman officers, i. 213.

Blissionary conference at Maulmain,
i.55.

27*

Missionary field in and around Bo^
mah, ii. 192.

physicians, ii. 263.

Mission press at Maulmain, i. 69: Cal-
cutta, ii. 36: at Madras, 54: Bang-
kok, 133 : Macao, 163.

Missions to the Chinese^ iL 175.

Missionaries to be sent in psurs, ii. 281.

Mode of eating in Burmah, i. 182.

Modem lan^ases of Hindustan, ii. 80.

Mogoung, h. 1*^.

Moeoung River, i. 150.

Monumim, a Mussulman festival, i. 59.

Mokesd[>o, i. 135.

Monarch of Burmah, i. 211.

Monay, ii. 225.

Morahty of Boodhism, i. 248.

Moravians at Nicobar. i. 30.

,widows ana children, ii. 268.

Mosques in Calcutta, ii. 29.

Mosquitoes at Rangoon, i. 177.

Mother Carey's chickens, {proceUaria
pelagicOf) i. 21.

Moungtnagoung, i. 38.

Mountains of &irmah, i. 145.

Mroongs, i. 129 3 ii. 209.

Mrs. Judson's grave, i. 36.

Mrs. Sigourney's lines on Mrs. Jod-
sott, i. 37.

Mrs. Wilson's schools, Calcutta, u. 20.

Mugs, i. 127.

Munipore, ii. 205.

Music, Burman, 203.

— — , Bengalee, ii. 30 ; 38.

Mussulman edifices in Calcutta, ii. 29.

Muttucks, ii. 213.

Myetnga River, i. 114; 150.

Nagas, ii. 207.

Namdogyeepre, kmg of Burmah, L

136.
Nankin or red cotton of Burmah, i.

168.
Native assistants, education of, it. 278.
Nat worship, i. 258.
Navy, Burman, i. 229 : Siamese, ii.

127: Chinese, 145.
Newspapers in Calcutta, ii. 29.
Newville, i. 58.
Nicobar Islands, i. 30.
Noble serpentine of Burmah, i. 146.
Nobles, Burman, i. 211.
Novel mode of fishing on Irrawaddy,

i. 87.
Number of converts in Burmah, i. 131 :

in Madras, ii. 54: on the MaW

peninsula, 93; 99: Bankok, 136:

Macao, 165 : in the world, 243.

818

niDxx.

NmnHer of misnonariefl in the world,

ii. 218.
-^— — heathen who can read,

a. 257.
Nunsun ascendi the throne of Bur-

mah, i. 138.

Oak, varioQs species m Bnnnah, i.

163.
Oath, singular form of, i. 216.
Ocean thoughts, i. 15.
Olives, rommon at Mergui, i. 157.
Ordained pastors necessary, ii. 275.
Ordeal, trial by, i. 217.
Oriental alphabets, ii. 261.
Omamental structures round pagodas,

i. 253} 254.
Omithologry of Burmah, i. 174.
Outcasts, Burman, i. 212.

Pagan literature, the erand prop of
pagan religions^ ii. 215.

Pi^ian. ruins of, i. 92 : reverence for,
^ : Boodhism first tau^t here, 94.

Pagoda, great Shoodagon, at Ran-
goon, i. 75 : Shoomadoo, at Pegu,
§3 : splendid, at Prome, fh : new, at
Ava, 142 : general model of, 251 :
worship, 256 : form in Hindustan,
ii. 69 : in China, 156.

Pagoda slaves, i. 77.

Panang, ii. 105.

Paknam, ii. 113.

Palankeen travelling in India, ii. 59.

Pali language, i. 234.

Palmyra, or toddy-tree, i. 95 j 155.

Paloungs, ii. 204.

Panya, seat of Burman government,
i. 135 : utterly destroj'ed, 137.

Papaya, (carica papaja,) i. 152.

Paper, Burman manufacture of, i.210.

Parting regrets, i. 131 5 ii. 141.

Patani, ii. 106.

Patronage of idolatry by British gov-
ernment^ ii. 72.

Pearls, procured at Mergui, i. 147.

Pecotta, or mode of irrigation neaur
Madras, ii. 62.

Peekah, i. 46.

Pegu, city of, ii. 83: the province
never regarded as conquered, 135.

Peguan dynasty, i. 135.

Peguans, li. 192.

Pegu River, i. 82.

Perak,ii. 103.

Periodicals in Bengal, ii. 29.

Periodicals suimorted by n^siooariei,
ii.259.

Personal appearance of Siamese, iL
125.

Persecutions at Madagascar, ii. 241.

Petrifactions on the Irrav^iddy, i. 91 :
varieties of, 147 : probably antedi-
luvian, 148.

Petroleum wells, i. 91 : gross amml
produce, 147.

Pett)r monsoon, ii. 167.

Physicians, missionary, ii. 263.

Phwoons, ii. 205.

Piety of the Karens, i. AS.

in the churches at home, ii. 288.

Pine, in Burman mountains, i. 163.

Pipal. See BatnUan, i. 160.

Places of worship in Calcutta, ii. 36.

Plaintain, {musa paradisiaca,) i. 1^.

Plan for, preparing Chinese missiona-

ries, u. 182.

Political relations of E. L Company,
ii. 290.

Pondicherry, ii. 61.

Pongyees, not a separate caste, i. 259 !
rules for, 260 : dress, 261.

Pontiana, ii. 180.

Population ; Tenasserim provinces, i.
38 ; ii. 192 : Arracan, 38 : Memii, 49 :
Rangoon, 74: Burmah, 178: Cal-
cutta, ii. 33 : Madras, 51 : Singa-
pore, 88 : Bankok, 120: Siam,126:
Canton, 146 : Cape of Good Hope,
168 : Yunnan, 178 : Karen, 193.

Populousness of region round Ava,
i. 115.

Portuguese men-of-war, {hotocuria
physalis,) i. 26.

Posture of Siamese lady, ii. 1 18.

Poverty of heathen languages, ii. 223.

Prayer, Boodhistical mode of, i. 256.

Preaching to an assembly of mission-
aries, i. 55; ii. 138.

■ to resident foreigners, ii. 258.

-, difficulties of, in the East, iL

270.

-, a primary duty, ii. 270.

Premature i ejoiclng, i. 1 16.
Preparatory labors of missionaries,

ii. 220.
Preparis and Narcondam Islands, i. 34.
Present activity of slave trade, ii. 171.
Press, benefits of, to Burmah, i. 238.
Price, Dr., i. 108.
Price of a Burman house, i. 179: of

passages in India, ii. 83.
Prices of living: at Maulmain, i. 65: at

Rangoon, 75: at Ava, 101: at

Akyab, 121: at Calcutta, ii. 34 1

at Bankok, 129.

INDEX.

819

Pride ofBurmans, i. 191.

Priesthood, Burman, i. 259 : rules of,
260 : dress, 261 : morality. 261 : mode
of preaching, 262: daily support,
263: number, 264: hierarchy, 264:
funeral rites, 265: political influ-
ence, 268.

Priestesses, Burman, i. 268.

Printing-offices ; Maulmain, i. 69 :
Calcutta, ii. 36: Serampore, 45:
Singapore, 94 : Bankok, 133 : Ma-
cao, 163 : Sudiya, 176.

Private names of Burman sovereisns,
i. 137. ^

Process of dyeing in Burmah^ i. 208.

Progressive poverty of Hmdustan,
ii. 78.

Prome, i. 86: spendid pa^^a, 87:
leper village B8 : occupied by the
British, 141.

Provincial administration in Burmah,
i. 214.

Pumplenose, or shaddock, {citrus de-
cummana,) i. 157.

Punishments in Burmah, i. 218.

Purity of missionaries, i. 131.

Qualifications of native assistants, ii.

276.
Que, or Quays, ii. 202.

Rainy season in Burmah, i. 144.

Rajbuncsies, ii. 208.

Ram Mohun Roy ^ his specimen of
Hindu literature, li. 25 : his insUtu-
tion in Calcutta, 30.

Ramree, i. 124.

Rangoon, location, i. 74 : population,
74 : commerce, 74 : prices of provis-
ion, 75 : ship-building at, 75 ; 206 :
freat pagooa, 75: persecution at,
9: departure from, 84: return to,
116 : departure for Uhittagong, 118.

Ratans, varieties in Burmah, i. 166.

Religion of Burmah, i. 239.

Religious edifices in Calcutta, ii. 29.

improvement of the seamen,

1. 04.

Remarkable caves, i. 61.

— ^— — — — phenomenon, ii. 170.

Remarks upon Boodhism, i. 270.

Reptiles of Burmah, i. 175.

Return to the United States, ii. 172.

Revenue of Chittagone, i. 119: of
Arracan, 128 : East India Compa-
ny, ii. 80.

1 Rice, preferred food in Burmah, L
168.
, raised on uplands, i. 169.
, mode of cleaning shown, i. 1T7.
— — , price of, at Rangoon, i. 75 : at

Ava, 101 : at Akyab, 121.
Rivers of Burmah, i. 148 : 150.
Rockets, immense size oi, in Burmah,

i. 209.
Roman alphabet to be preferred, ii.
^60.

Catholics, at Ava, i. Ill: in
Siam, ii. 139.
Rumbo, ii. 105.

Sabbath neglected in Calcutta, ii. 36.

Sacrifices of heathen converts, ii. 241.

Sagaing, population of, i. 112: eliffi-
me location for a mission, 1&:
made the metropolis, 136.

Sailors, efforts for, i. 18.

Sakya systems, i. 243 : how reprodu-
ced, 245 : existing from eternity, 247.

Salaries of civilians in India, ii. 79.

— ^— i^— missionaries, ii. 269.

Salengore, ii. 104.

Salt, exported from Chittagong, i. 119.

-^— , manufactured in Burmah, i. 210.

Salt licks near Ava, i. 113.

Sal wen or Martaban River, excursion
upon, i. 60 : sources and course, 149.

Saunbas, ii. 180.

Sandoway, i. 124.

Sandwich Islands, recent revivals at,
ii.242.

Sapan-wood, Iccu-alpima sappan,) i.
161.

Saugor Island, ii. 8.

Saul or Soondry tree, i. 157.

Scenery of the Burman coast, i. 38.

Schools, missionary benefits of, ii.
287 : how far to be depended upon,
249.

Scorpion, ii. 7.

Seasons in Burmah, on the coast, i. 51 :
between tide water and the moun-
tains, 144: at Madras, ii. 53: at
Singapore, 85 : at Bankok, 121.

Seats of government in Burmah, i.
134.

Sects, Boodhistical, i. 269.
, Brahminical, ii. 50.

Self-denial in unexpected forms, ii.
270.

Selongs, i. 51 ; ii. 201.

Serampore, ii. 43 : college, 44: grave-
yarcl, 45: disinterestedness of the
missionaries, 46.

vrDXi»

deriaglMUB, ii. 69.

Servanu, numben of, in Calcutta, ii.
12.

Setanff River, i. t48.

8bacKK>ck, or Pompleiiose, i. 107.

Shark, enormous, naipoooed, i. 29.

Shark s fins, uses of, i. 224.

Shenbu^en ascends the throne, i. 136.

Ship-building at Rangoon, i. 206.

Shoomadoo pagoda at PeEu, i. 88.

Shwaykyetj'et pagoda, i. 114.

Shyan cnobwaus, i. 104.

— ■^— country, ii. 198.

Shyans, invade Burmah, i. 185.
, various tribes of, ii. 199.

Siam, overrun by Alompra, i. 136 :
river of. ii. Il3: floating houses,
116: nobles, 117: history of, 124:
population, 125: army, 126: com-
merce, 127 : money, 1^ : missions,
182.

Siamese, rreat men. ii. 118 : idol, 123 :
personsu appearance, 125: costmne
and amusements, 126 : character,
129: degree of civiUzation, 130:
language, 131.

Siamese Shyans, i. 50.

Silk cotton-tree, {bombixx eeibOf) i. 161 .

ffilk, general use of, by Burmans, i.
183.

Silver, qualities of^ i. 227.

Singapore ; situation, ii. 84 : harbor,
86 : climate, 86 : productions, 87 :
population, 88 : missionary opera-
tions, 93.

Singphoos, ii. 204, 213.

Slaver, ii. 170.

Slavery, Burman law of, i. 219 : prev-
alence of, 229 : in Arracan, 128 : in
the Camatic, ii. 71 : among the Ma-
lays, 108 : in Siam, 130.

Slaves of the pagoda, i. 77.

Slave trade, still active, ii. 171.

Small-pox, Burman mode of treat-
ment, i. 198.

Smokinff, universal in Burmah, i. 186.

Snake-charmers, ii. 50.

Society in Calcutta, ii. 34.

Solemn inquiry, ii. 174.

Somona Kodom, ii. 123.

Sparseness of population in Arracan,
i. 130.

Squalls at sea, i. 20.

Standing arm^ in India, ii. 79 j 291.

State or religion in Calcutta, ii. 35.

Stations not to be interrupted, ii. 280.

St. Helena, ii. 170.

Style of building in Siam, ii. 122.

of living to be adopted by

missionaries, ii. 265.

Stocks, punisbmeiit of, i. 217.
Storm off Tavov Point, i. SOL
Storm petrel, (jproeellaria pdagkif)

i. 21.
Strait of Malacca, if. 83.
Structure of beatben socie^, iL 227.
Sudiya, ii. 176.
Sufferings of British army in Raiq^ooa,

Sugar, lai^y manufactored at Uim*

rapoora,i. 116.
Sugar-cane, a product of BumMh,

i. 171.
Suitable presents for Karens, i. 4S.
Sunscrit O^lege, ii. 23.
Superstitions of the Burmese, i. 257.
Support of widows and children, iL 268.
Surrawa prince at Ava, i. 105.
System orthe universe, Burman, L 2ii.
Swartz, ii. 65 : grave of, 67.

Tabasheer^ from what made, i. 166.

Tahmlah, i. 46.

Talings. See Pe^vans.

Tamarind, {tamartndus indieut,) i. 154.

Tambiran, a distinguished convert,
ii. 54.

Tamul tracts and books, ii. 234.

Tanjore, ii. 64: Christian villages, 66:
missionaries, 67.

Tavoy ; town and suburbs, i. 40 : prov-
ince, 40 : dialect, 41 : missionaries
at, 41 : Karens, 41 : conquered by
Alompra, 136.

Tattooing, mode of, and reasons, u
186.

Taxes at Chittagong, i. 119.
at Akyab, i. 127.

Teak, {tectona grandis^) i. 169.
Tea plant of Burmah, i. 170.

, cultivated by Polonngs, ii. 204.

Teeth, custom and mode of blacking,

i. 13.5. ^

Telinga, ii. 66.
Teloogoos, ii. 65 : missions among, 57 :

translations, 58.
Temperance, universal in Burmah,

i. 189.
Tenasserim, river and city, i. 61.
. provinces, administration

of justice m, i. 72.
Tenure of property in Burmah, i. 221.
Testimony to puritv of missionaries, i.

131 : to the useuilness of their ser-
vices, ii. 173.
Thatch, material of, i. 154.
Thathenabyng, or supreme pontiff at

Ava, i. 105.

IIVDXX.

331

The Hopia tree, i. 37.

Thingan. (hopia odorata.) i. 160.

Tical, i. 228 j 232.

Tillage, mode of, in Biirmab, i. 167.

Timl^r-trees of Burmah^ i. 159.

Time, Burman division of, i. 231.

Tipperah, or Tripura, ii. 207.

Tobacco, wild in Burmah, i. 158.
, cultivated, i. 169.

Toddy-tree, i. 95 ; 155.

Toleration,degree of, in Burmah, i. 269.

Toung Byouk Galte, i. 46.

Toungthoos, ii. 200.

Tour among Karen villages, i. 57.

Tract distribution at Kewnew, i. 84.

Tracts and practical works for hea-
then, ii. 234: translated from the
English, 256.

Trade winds, i. 23.

Trades, Burman, i. 210.

Trading vessels on the Irrawaddy, i.
226.

Tranauebar, ii. 61.

Translations, into Karen language,
i. 47 : into Malay, ii. 110 : number,
233: into Burman, 234: value of,
255.

Travelling in India by land, ii. 59.

Trialbyordeal, i. 217.

Tnbes m and around Burmah, ii. 191.

Trichinopoly, ii. 68.

Tring^o, ii. 105.

Tristran d'Acunha, i. 24.

Tropical and aquatic novelties, i. 21.

Tsaloay, badge of official rank, i.
212.

Tswahs, ii. 200.

Times, Oriental, ii. 38.

Umerapoora; location, i. 114: Chi-
nese residents. 114: sugar manufac-
ture, 1 15 : when founded, 137 : a
suitable station for a Chinese mis-
sion, ii. 178.

Uncleanliness of Burmans, i. 192.

Vaccination not successful in Burmah,

i. 195.
Variety of Burman fruits, i. 159 : value

compared with those oi our country,

169.

Vegetable productions, Burmah, i.

150.
Versions of Scripture in Chinese, ii.

182.
Violin, Burman, i. 205.
Visits to tlie great at Ava, i. 102.

at Bankok, ii. 117.

to hong merchant, ii. 153.

Vocal music of Bengal, ii. 31.

Voyage to India, i. 13 : on the coast
of 5f ergui, 48 : to Calcutta, ii. 7
to Madras, 48 : to Singapore, 81
to Malacca, 94: to Beuikok, 112
to Ch'ma, 142 : to the United States,
167.

Wages, rate of, in Burmah, i. 168.
Wahs, li. 200.

Walk over the Tavoy Mountains, i. 39.
War between Burmah and the Eng-

lish, i. 140.
Washing, singular mode of, ii. 16.
Water festival of the Burmans^ i. 59.
Wats, or sacred places in Siam, ii.

122.
Wayland's, (Pres.) opinion, ii. 271.
Wedding procession, Calcutta, ii. 14.
Weights and measures, Burman, i. 232.
Whampoa, ii. 143.
White elephant of Burmah^ i. 223.
Wild animals of Burmah, i. 172.
Witches, Burman fear of, i. 258.
Wives of missionaries, usefiilness ofl

ii. 219.
Women, condition of, in Burmah, i.

193.
Wood-oil made from Theetsay, i. 162 :

used in ^lding[, 207.
Worship, Boodhislical, i. 255.
Worship-days, Burman, i. 231.
Written code of Burmah, i. 216.

Yaws, or Jos, ii. 202.
Yaynangoung, i. 91.

Zayats, provided for strangers, L 188.

, description of, i. 252.
Zemmai, or Cnangmy, ii. 179.

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