UC-NI
SB 52 Iflb
A NARRATIVE
OF
TRAVEL AND SPORT
IN BURMAH, SIAM, AND THE MALAY
PENINSULA.
BY
JOHN BRADLEY.
J n
SAMUEL TINSLEY,
TO, SOUTHAMPTON STREET, STRAND.
1876.
(All Rights reserved.)
PRESERVATION
COPY ADDED
ORIGINAL TO BE
RETAINED
MAR 6 1995
D JS 7
QftJGlNAL TO BE
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Introductory observations Difficulty in obtaining companions
for the journey Start for Rangoon Meet with Captain Lacy
and Mr. Grant Arrangements for the journey Price of horses
at Rangoon The expedition organized by Mr. Grant Our out-
fit and stores Burmese oxen Start for Pegu The road be-
tween Rangoon and Pegu Arrival at Pegu Description of
the city Temple of Shoomadoo Ruins in the neighbourhood
of Pegu The Sittang road Bengalee road-surveyor Taden-
bah Hospitality of the natives Banks of the Sittang Pretty
appearance of the city Manufactories at Sittang Ferried
across the river Streets of Sittang The bazaar Long
marches exhaust the oxen A Burmese house - - Page 1
CHAPTER II.
Description of the country near Sittang Plantations of rice, &c-
Buddhist priest Patandah An evening's shooting Extra-
ordinary sagacity of an elephant Streams Wild country
The Salween Difficulty in crossing Shallangat Preparations
for sport Forest and jungle In the jaws of a tiger Extent of
my injuries Kindness of a native woman Several tigers shot
by my companions A native clawed Destruction of human life
by wild beasts Trophies of the chase Resume our journey
Difficulties of travelling in the forest Rate of progress Deer
( shot - 25
CHAPTER III.
Party of natives and their village Paucity of large game
met with Rough ground Wild elephants One of them
shot Eleqhants' feet not a dainty The river Thungyen
Cobras and green snakes Our servants lost A night out and
its drawbacks Wild beasts and their fondness for water
Captain Lacy goes in search of the men The baggage arrives
The passage of the river A day's rest Results of an evening's
shooting Impenetrable forests compel us to make detours
Change in the character of the country Plains covered with
beautiful flowers Average distance an ox can travel Arrive
at a large village Surrounded by the crowd A native girl
seized by a tiger Number of natives killed by tigers - 47
CHAPTER IV.
Traces of the accident Preparations for the destruction of the
tiger Remains of the victim Unsuccessful search A deserted
village A leopard shot Captain Lacy's account of his adven-
ture with a tiger A native badly hurt Return to Sattybar-
iv CONTENTS.
dali Offer a reward for the discovery of the man-eater's lair
Evidences of its dreadfully destructive powers Prepare to
meet our antagonist A double adventure Marvellous
tenacity of life Excitement at Sattybardah on the news of
our success Size and weight of the tigers Large bag of
game made on the 4th December Indian bird of paradise
Bees Parrots Villages Tormented by rnosquitos Page 69
CHAPTER V.
Our position Monotonous rustling of the leaves Signs of in-
habitants Flat country Rhinoceroses Fruit Pagodas and
priests Civil disposition of the natives Siamese cities
Sahaing Large number of tame elephants seen in the streets
The city nuisances Anecdotes of hawks Cock-fighting
Curious soap-stone ornaments Strange tricks of a travelling
conjuror Pleasure evinced by the crowd Annoying insects
and lizards, and nightmare - 91
CHAPTER VI.
Hot day River Menam Parties of natives met Dense forest
Pea-fowl shooting An aquatic village Marshy ground A
tiger shot Two buffaloes shot A sporting expedition Inun-
dated tracts of country Numerous traces of game A herd of
large deer Magnificent banyan tree A- solitary rhinoceros
seen, and shortly afterwards others found One of them placed
Iwrs de combat Damage done to crops by rhinoceroses and
other wild beasts Cowardice displayed by tigers Several
shot by ourselves and servants Magnificent display of fire-
flies These insects preyed upon by a small kind of hawk
Boggy nature of the country Excessive heat 109
CHAPTER VII.
Pace of the oxen Range of hills Character of the country
Monkeys, and a, free-fight amongst them Wild bees' nests
Ituins of a pagoda Wells Storms of hail and rain Trees
found in this region Stream and lotus flowers Cultivated
land Village or town of Tatsong Rajah of Tatsong Descrip-
tion of the place The Rajah's palace Courteous reception by
the Rajah His personal appearance Subjects of our conver-
sation His territory A tiger hunt proposed In the howdah
The sport commences Timidity of the beaters Character
of the tiger A desperate encounter A native saved by his
elephant Result of our day's sport - 129
CHAPTER VIII.
Dinner at the Rajah's palace His Highness elated Elephant
stables White elephant Trade of the country Productions
Elephant hunting Christmas Day An elephant hunt Its
failure A second expedition Exciting adventure with a large
male elephant Terror of the herd Cruelty of the Rajah
Affecting tenderness of an elephant dam for its calf Long
CONTENTS.
march of the beaters and servants A day's rest The Rajah
offended Leave Tatsong Three villages seen People at work
Four large brooks Snipe Very large bag made Page 157
CHAPTER IX.
Regain banks of the Menam Rate of progress Gigantic forests
Height of the trees Appearance of the river Flamingoes
Frilled lizards Marshy ground Alligators and tigers Dis-
turbed by the noise of wild beasts Fight between a bull-
buffalo and a rhinoceros Extraordinary display of fire-flies
Tigers and buffalo Cross a tributary of the Menam Flying-
squirrels Dangerous marshy ground Loss of an ox and
narrow escape of Mr. Grant Miserable plight Another ox
lost Desperate situation Apathy of our servants Strange
appearance of the trees Illness of Mr. Grant He and a
servant attacked by fever Weed of which cattle are fond
Continued illness of Mr. Grant 177
CHAPTER X.
Improvement in Mr. Grant's condition Beautiful little finch
Resume our journey Small plains Sharp encounter with a
rhinoceros A rhinoceros killed with a single shot Boats and
rafts pass down .the river Reeds, mosquitos and gnats
Extraordinary appearance of the clouds The forest appears to
be a mass of silvery light Description of the country Find
remains of a buffalo A tiger shot Dense forest Compelled
to camp out Men sent in search of us 197
CHAPTER XI.
Tillage in an unusually filthy state Inquisitiveness of the natives
Fruit abundant Density of the population Large tracts
cleared of timber Horrors of a night in a native hut Enor-
mous number of rats Compelled to turn out Differences with
our landlord Large river Slaughter of buffaloes Fauna met
with Domestic animals Ferocious dog Tedious march
Arrive at Siam Disposition of the natives Siamese dramatic
entertainment Extensive rice fields Pretty scenery Arrival
at Bangkok Meet with an Englishman, and are kindly enter-
tained by him Floating houses Alteration of our arrange-
ments Mr. Grant leaves for Rangoon 217
CHAPTER XII.
Preparations for our expedition to Malaya Sail for Patani
The ship's crew Duration of our voyage Patani and its in-
habitants We land Character of the country Pass a night
in a native hut Villages and cultivated ground Singular
appearance of the forest Large snake Wasp-like fly Gloom
of the forest Rivulet Slow rate of progress Exceedingly
dense forest Rest and sleep Our discomforts 241
vi CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XIII.
Continuation of our journey through dense forests Gigantic-
fungi Snakes Birds' nests Exclusion of the sun's rays from
these forests Our progress southwards Pass the night in a
hollow tree Terrific storm Vividness of the lightning The
two Chinamen leave us Their probable fate Suffer from-
thirst Pleasing circumstances Springs and pools of water
Little change in the character of the forest Dine off serpent's
flesh Increased difficulties of our journey High trees and
monkeys Reduced to eat small birds Elephant shot Bene-
ficial effects of the excitement - Page 259
CHAPTER XIY.
The forest less dense A herd of elephants seen Longer march
than usual Small pool of water Two deer obtained Our
view of the surrounding country limited Handsome parrot
Trees met with here Spring Tiring detours Our bed
Decide to make for Province Wellesley Chain of mountains
in sight Flights of birds going southwards Halt on summit
of hills Discovery of tree-huts of wild men Thorn creepers
Wild men Their appearance and manners A girl captured
The tree-huts Articles found in them Description of our
captive Small river Deer and antelope shot Guard kept
during the night - 283
CHAPTER XV.
Our captive's appetite Succeed in communicating with the wild
men Their degraded state and morals Numbers Mode of
procuring lire Resume our journey Our captive anxious to
go ^with us Proceed up the river More dense forests A
white peacock Appearance of the range Pool or lake Find
a couple of tapirs, and shoot one Description of the animal-
Valleys with pools More tree-huts, and traces of supposed
cannibalism Country difficult of access Another colony of
wild men Find it impossible to communicate with them 305
CHAPTER XVI.
Commence ascent of the mountains Sides very steep and covered
with forests Gamboge and pine trees Growth of the trees
Our highest point Pigeons Dark night Sublime Scene-
Descend on the west side of the range Height of the ther-
mometer Fearful storm Quantity of game Discover a
party of natives Their weapons A nearly white tapir shot
Use of the proboscis Hilly district Retarded by densenesa
of the forest Follow the course of a stream A large python
Description of the river Reach the sea-shore Purchase a
prah at a Malay hamlet and embark for Penang Arrive at
Georgetown Conclusion - 323
A NARRATIVE
OF
TRAVEL AND SPORT,
CHAPTER I.
Introductory observations. Difficulty in obtaining com-
panions for the journey. Start for Rangoon. Meet
with Captain Lacy and Mr. Grant. Arrangements for
the journey. Price of horses at Rangoon. The expe-
dition organized by Mr. Grant. Our outfit and stores.
Burmese oxen. Start for Pegu. The road between
Rangoon and Pegu. Arrival at Pegu. Description of
the city. Temple of Shooniadoo. Ruins in the neigh-
bourhood of Pegu. The Sittang road. Bengalee road-
surveyor. Tadenbah. Hospitality of the natives.
Banks of the Sittang. Pretty appearance of the city.
Manufactories at Sittang. Ferried across the river.
Streets of Sittang. The bazaar. Long marches exhaust
the oxen. A Burmese house.
A NARRATIVE OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 3
TRAVELLERS and explorers may be divided, I
think, into two great classes : those whose chief
object is the attainment of scientific information,
and those who travel principally for the grati-
fication of their love of adventure and
change of scenery. I belong to the latter
section, and I have an innate love of
wandering in countries which are but little
known and frequented by Europeans. This
is probably one of the reasons why I have
generally found it difficult to persuade any
of my countrymen to accompany me in my
travels. Indian sportsmen can usually find
plenty of game in the neighbourhood of the
cantonments, and it is not often that they
undertake a long and dangerous journey
for the sole purpose of shooting tigers and
deer. Some Anglo-Indians, indeed, are fond
of long rambles in search of game ; but
12
,4 A NARRATIVE
they almost invariably choose those tracts of
the country which are best known, and
where travelling is comparatively safe and
easy. And so it happened, that when I
first formed the idea of penetrating into
the interior of Siam, and working my way
down towards the Malay Peninsula, I could
not induce any of my Indian friends and
acquaintances to join me in the expedition,
or even to countenance and encourage the pro-
posed undertaking ; and I was compelled to
leave Calcutta for Rangoon, the point from
whence I proposed to start, alone.
At Rangoon, however, good fortune awaited
me, I was there introduced to a Captain Lacy,
who had formerly been an officer of the Bengal
Native Infantry. He was an enthusiastic
sportsman, and readily fell in with my views
and intentions ; and he also prevailed upon a
young friend of his, Mr. Grant, to make one of
our party. The arrangements for the journey
were that we should penetrate into the king-
dom of Siam, by way of Pegu and Sittang, and
thence work our way down to Bangkok. I had
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT.
an intention of extending my travels into some
parts of the Malayan Peninsula, but I could
not get my companions to promise to go farther
than Bangkok, from which city they hoped to
be able to return to India by water. We agreed
to perform the journey leisurely, and along our
route to enjoy tiger-shooting and other sports,
as circumstances might permit. A number of
native servants were hired, and pack-oxen pur-
chased to carry our baggage. Part of the men
were especially engaged as personal servants to
myself and companions, and were trained men
who had been in the employ of European,
residents ; the remainder, six in number, were
Burmese, intended to look after the oxen. These
latter men were procured for the very moderate
remuneration of eight rupees a month per man.
The number of pack-oxen provided for our ex-r
pedition was eight, all fine strong animals.
After making inquiries, Captain Lacy, Mr.
Grant, and myself came to the conclusion that
we should not meet with any impediment to
performing the journey on horseback ; and,
accordingly, three horses were bought for our
A NARRATIVE
own use. Horses were scarce at Rangoon, but
we succeeded in obtaining three passable,
though small, mares, for an average sum of
three hundred and forty rupees a head.
The trouble of organizing our little party,
and making the necessary preparations, fell
almost entirely upon Mr. Grant, who entered
heartily into the business ; and it is impossible
to say how much the success of our undertaking:
was indebted to the care and discrimination he
exercised in selecting the servants, who all
turned out to be faithful and trustworthy men.
It was through his forethought also that we
were provided with a portable cooking appa-
ratus, net- work bedsteads, and other exceedingly
useful articles. Amongst the other necessaries-
provided may be enumerated a light field-tent,
capable of comfortably accommodating the three
of us, a large quantity of preserved meats, &c.,
spirits, drugs, water-proof blankets; and, in
fact, everything that could be thought of as
likely to conduce to our comfort and preserve
health. These articles were packed in canvas
bags, and carried upon the backs of the oxen. As
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 7
the quantity of gunpowder we had with us was
considerable, one beast was kept apart to carry
it, in order to prevent accidents. I should state
that in the province of Pegu, and other parts of
India, oxen are largely used as beasts of burden
by those who cannot afford to keep elephants, and
are trained to the work and are very docile.
Those that we bought cost us from twenty to
thirty rupees each ; and, though rather slow in
their pace, they would cover a long distance in
the course of a day.
Everything being in readiness, and our final
arrangements completed, the servants and
oxen, with the baggage, were sent on to Pegu,
in charge of Akbar Nanee, Captain Lacy's
Hindostanee servant, there to await our arrival.
This was on the 8th of October, 1869, and on
the morning of the 10th we left Rangoon our-
selves.
The distance of Pegu from Rangoon is nearly
sixty miles, arid there is a tolerably good road
running between the two cities. The country
is exceedingly fertile, well watered, and, near
Rangoon, in a high state of cultivation. Many
A NARRATIVE
streams and rivers run across the road, and
most of them are spanned by strong bridges,
though we were compelled to ford some of the
shallowest of them. The number of villages
and towns we passed on the road was consider-
able, and afforded us convenient opportunities
of halting for a rest. At many places on or
near the side of the road we saw great mounds
of earth and stones, on the top of which sticks
were planted, with coloured rags fluttering
from them. Captain Lacy said he had been
informed that these mounds marked the spots
where persons had been seized by tigers. We
had been told at Rangoon that certain parts of
the road were dangerous for foot-passengers,
owing to the number of tigers which infested
the uncultivated tracts of country.
- Having spent the middle part of the day at
a small town about fifteen miles distant , from
Pegu, we resumed our journey early in the
evening, and arrived at the latter city a little
before eight o'clock. We found our servants
and the oxen established in a kind of cara-
vansera, without the ruined walls, which is in-
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 9
tended for the use of travellers, who pay a
trifle for the accommodation. Small sheds
were erected round the walls of this enclosure,
for the shelter of man and beast ; but, as they
were far from being clean, we erected our own
tent, and picketed the oxen and horses in the
open square, lest standing in the mire of the
sheds should give them sore feet.
The city of Pegu is situated on the left bank
of a tributary of the river Sittang. It is a very
ancient and partially-decayed place, and most
of the city walls, together with a great many
fine buildings, are in ruins. It is said the city
has been gradually falling to ruin since it was
captured and sacked, in the year 1757, by the
Burmese Emperor Alompra, who murdered or
made slaves of all the inhabitants who were
unable to save themselves by a timely flight.
Most of the houses, like those at Rangoon, are
built upon piles, to elevate them above the
level of the floods, which frequently occur.
Many of the streets are narrow and crooked,
and the houses bulge over them to such an
extent that they appear to be about to topple
io A NARRATIVE
down. It is a noisy and bustling place, and a
considerable amount of business seems to be
transacted in the bazaar, where all sorts of
European and native wares are offered for
sale.
But the greatest sight at Pegu is the pa-
godas. The day after our arrival we went to
see one of the most noteworthy, called the
Temple of Shoomadoo. It is a large and
certainly a magnificent building, erected in the
usual square Indian style of architecture. It
might almost be taken for a city in itself, so
great is the number of its domes, minarets,
courts, and corridors. There are many signs
of great antiquity about it, but it is in a good
state of preservation, being well looked after by
a large body of Buddhist priests, who guard
the gates somewhat jealously till the would-be
inspector of the interior produces a silver key.
A rupee or two gained us admittance to what
I suppose w T as the chief idol house. It was a
large dimly-lighted place, about a hundred
and twenty feet long, by eighty broad, as.
nearly as I could judge. At the farthest end
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. i F
from the doorway was arranged a large col-
lection of idols of all sorts of sizes and shapes,
and of every degree of hideousness. One
gigantic figure, of more than satanic ugliness,
was encrusted with precious stones ; and there
were traces about it that many of the
gems had been picked out probably by back-
sliding Buddhists, as I can scarcely think a
European would have the opportunity of com-
mitting the theft.
OCT. 12. We left Pegu early this morning,
passing through the city, and out by the ruins
of a splendid gateway on the east side. The
walls near this gate were still standing, though
in a dangerously ruinous condition, and were of
great height, and built of immense blocks of a
granite-like stone. For several miles on our
way we met with ruins of various kinds, and at
one spot, where a number of carved images lay
about in confusion amongst scattered fragments-
of masonry, I was reminded vividly of some
picture I have seen of ruins in the Holy Land.
About an hour after leaving Pegu we came to a
stream of water spanned by a well-constructed
t2 A NARRATIVE
bridge, the materials for building which had
evidently been furnished from amongst the
ruins in the neighbourhood.
The Sittang road, upon which we were now
travelling, is a good, broad, and level high-
way, kept in excellent repair by the natives,
who have dug a ditch on either side for drain-
age.
For several miles beyond Pegu the land
on either side of the road was under culture,
the principal crop being rice ; and these rice-
fields were flooded artificially with water, ob-
tained by diverting the courses of several small
streams of the Sittang delta. The number of
datives at work in the fields, and the many
children seen in the villages we passed on our
route, showed that this part of the country is
pretty thickly peopled. In nearly every village
we came to women were sitting on the ground
under the shade of the trees, and grinding corn
in the manner so universally prevalent in all
eastern countries, viz., by rubbing it between
two hand mill-stones. Both women and chil-
dren appeared greatly astonished as we rode by
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 13,
them, and in some instances scrambled out of
our way in manifest fright.
After passing through several tracts of forest,
one of which was four or five miles in extent,
we came upon a party of labourers repairing the
road. They were in charge of a native of
Bengal, who informed Captain Lacy that the-
country ahead was nearly destitute of inhabi-
tants, but that there was a large village about
two hours' journey farther on, called Tadenbah.
Its distance from Pegu would be about fifteen
miles, and as this was as far as we could ex-
pect the oxen to go in one day, we determined
to proceed thither and await their arrival ; for
they had been left on the road, with all the
men, to follow at their leisure. With regard
to the road-surveyor, he told us that he had
formerly had employment under the British
Government in the Bengal Presidency, and had
been in his present situation for nearly eight
years. He was an intelligent and obliging
man, and gave us some useful little bits of in-
formation about the country, and we all three
felt pleasure in having met with him. I may
.14 A NARRATIVE
mention, by the way, that the labourers fetch
stone, gravel, &c., &c., from any land -where it
is to be found without reference to the owner
or person laying claim to the said land. For
the purpose of conveying the materials to the
spot where they are required, they are provided
with bullock-carts.
A little before eight o'clock we arrived at
Tadenbah, a village consisting of sixty or eighty
huts and houses built of wood, and boasting the
possession of a small temple. A good stream
of water ran through its midst, and the sur-
rounding country, with the exception of a few
rice-fields, was covered with fine forest trees.
Our advent caused some commotion amongst
the inhabitants; but the crowd which assembled
was orderly though somewhat noisy. When
we had dismounted and fastened our horses
under a tree, several of the natives beckoned to
us and pointed to the huts. We accepted the
invitation, and entering one of the largest
dwellings, were provided with a large wooden
dish full of boiled rice and a bowl of milk each,
for which, of course, we did not forget to tender
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT, 15
payment, which was received with evident grati-
fication. Nor did these hospitable Peguans forget
to provide for our horses, for a party of boys
pulled up and brought them a supply of grass.
Akbar Nanee and the rest of the servants with
the baggage, came up early in the afternoon ;
and having seen the tent pitched and prepara-
tions made for passing the night, we devoted
the remainder of the day to shooting, but found
no game with the exception of a few birds.
As the weather was no warmer than it
usually is in England in summer, we did not
start from Tadenbah the next morning until
after seven o'clock. Most of the inhabitants
turned out to see us off, and a few followed us a
short distance along the road. Sittang was to
be our halting-place to-day ; and, leaving the
baggage train (as usual) to follow at their lazy
oo o \ / J
pace, we pushed forward more rapidly, and in
half an hour struck the river Sittang, along the
right bank of which the road ran. The vegeta-
tion was here exceedingly luxuriant, the
gigantic trees stretching their huge limbs far
over the road and river, and forming a lofty
16 A NARRATIVE
archway overhead, where thousands of gaudy
and beautifully variegated parrots fluttered,
their magnificent plumage rendered intensely
and indescribably brilliant by the glaring rays-
of the sun. Many pretty lizards and other
reptiles frequently ran across the road, and one
or two alligators were seen in the river. The-
latter creatures we afterwards heard are very
abundant in some parts of the Sittang.
Between nine and ten o'clock we came within
sight of the domes and minarets of the city of
Sittang, and a prettier scene it would be difficult
to conceive. Unfortunately I am at a loss how
adequately to describe the glorious scene that
met our view. The reader must imagine a
noble forest of immense trees, whose feathery
foliage was of a hundred different shades of
green, tinged with brown, and finely relieved
here and there by some shrubs or small trees,
bearing a deep red leaf. From amidst this
splendid foliage peeped thousands of handsome
little minarets and spires, some of a spiral shape,
others so ornamented and perforated that they
looked like delicate lace-work; and all glittering
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT.
so brightly in the sun that the eyes were almost
dazzled with their brilliancy. Large domes
were partially visible, covered with gilt, and
fantastically ornamented with curious carved
devices. Nearer the river the houses were in
view, built upon piles to raise them above the
floods which inundate the country during the
rainy season. The river itself was covered with
boats, large and small, many of them serving
as dwellings for their owners, who pass most of
their existence on the water. When, how-
ever, they feel inclined to sojourn for a time
on shore, the boat is pulled up to a dry spot
and turned bottom up, one side being so-
propped up that the boatman and his family
can easily creep under for shelter when neces-
sary, or for the purpose of sleeping.
With the exception of a very few houses and
sheds, used for manufacturing purposes, the
city of Sittang is built upon the left bank of
the river, about fifteen or twenty miles from its.
mouth. Fully one half of its inhabitants are
Chinese, Anamese, Laos, and other foreigners
from the neighbouring provinces and countries,
2
1 8 A NARRATIVE
who are principally engaged in the manufactures
carried on at Sittang, which are not extensive,
and consist of weaving linen and cotton goods,
carving fancy trinkets in ivory and ornamental
woods, and making the rude implements used in
their agriculture. There is also a rope manu-
factory, where ropes and twine are made from
vegetable fibre, several tan-yards and a few
other factories; but none of these establishments
seem to do a very flourishing business, and their
trade is confined to the native population of the
district.
When we had got abreast of the city we
motioned to the astonished boatmen, who hap-
pened to be at hand, that we wished to be
ferried over to the opposite bank. A score of
boats immediately pulled up to the spot where
we were standing, and the men began to
quarrel vehemently which should have the
privilege of taking us across, shouting and
swearing in a nearly deafening tone. With
much difficulty, and at the risk of being pushed
into the water by the fractious ferrymen, we
Succeeded in getting on board myself and
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 19
Captain Lacy, with our horses, in one boat,
-and Mr. Grant and his horse in another. In
this fashion we were sculled across to the city,
an operation which took a quarter of an hour or
twenty minutes, the river being of considerable
breadth at this point.
On the opposite shore some hundreds of
persons witnessed our landing ; but they
did not attempt to crowd round us or follow
us into the city, where we did not excite as
much curiosity as I had anticipated. We were
permitted to ride through the street without
attracting any unpleasant attention ; but a
crowd of half-naked children followed close
at our horses' heels. The streets were nar-
row, sometimes so much so that we were even
compelled to ride in file, and pervaded with a
shocking stench arising from the heaps of filth
which lay festering in the sun. The houses
were mostly built of wood, and, as at Pegu and
Hangoon, elevated some distance from the
ground on wooden piles, and a few on solid
blocks of masonry. Access to them was gained
by flights of steps, or bamboo ladders. There
22
20 A NARRATIVE
were many large buildings near the centre of
the city, and the temples were fine specimens
of Hindoo architecture ; but the whole appear-
ance of the place was so dingy, and the filth i-
ness of it so disgusting, that I wondered it
should have looked so beautiful from a dis-
tance.
The bazaar offered a singular contrast to the
rest of the city. It was situated in a large
square, with buildings several stories high on
three sides of it, and the bustle, activity, and
noise of the hundreds of persons present was
quite exciting. All sorts of wares were exposed
for sale, muskets, pistols, swords, daggers,
knives, native bags, ivory snuff-boxes (at least
they appeared to be such), scissors, needles, and
bodkins, of European make ; coloured feathers,
jewellery, of native make ; muslins, calicoes,
prints, scarves, &c., both native and European ;
inlaid articles, fireworks, boots, sandals, tur-
bans, and a variety of Chinese manufactures,
such as hardware, fans, flowered silks, and
pictures painted on rice-paper. At one part of
the bazaar was a regular rag-fair. Amongst
OF TRA VEL AND SPOR7. 21
the curiosities we observed here was a number
of old scarlet jackets, formerly belonging to the
28th, 5Uth, and 16th Native Infantry, and the
10th and 98th European Regiments; and also
the jacket of some hussar regiment, and the
light-blue tunic of a native cavalry soldier.
These cast-off old uniforms must have gone
through some strange adventures before finding
themselves exposed for sale in this out-of-the-
way place. It is astonishing how fond the
natives of the East are of military finery. A
worn-out old jacket, or a forage cap, is worth
a Jew's eye to a native in any part of Hin-
dostan and Farther India.
Making our way out of the city on the east
side, we picketed our horses under a grove of
palm-trees, and partook of the refreshments we
had brought in our haversacks. In the course
of the afternoon Mr. Grant and myself, leaving
Captain Lacy to look after the horses, passed
through the city on foot, and re-crossed the
river to conduct the servants to our halting-
place. We waited about till evening, and as
they did not come up we naturally began to
22 A NARRA2IVE
feel alarmed on their account, and walked a
mile or two on the road to meet them. It
was nearly seven o'clock before they came in
sight, and the oxen were in a very distressed
condition. The marches had evidently been too-
long for them. We soon had three of the
largest ferryboats at our service ; but a great
deal of trouble was experienced in getting the
oxen on board, and it was nearly nine o'clock
before we had re-crossed the river a mile below
the city ; and we were here almost immediately
joined by Captain Lacy, who had become much
disturbed by our prolonged absence. During
the night one of the poor beasts died, and we
resolved that in future we would advance by
shorter stages : and thinking, moreover, that
our oxen might be a little too heavily bur-
dened, we went in the morning, accompanied by
one of our servants as interpreter, to purchase
three others to replace our loss. We had no-
difficulty in procuring much finer beasts than
those we already possessed.
After a consultation, we determined to spend
a couple of days at Sit tang, and Angbang, the
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 23
interpreter alluded to above, was sent into the
city with Captain Lacy's servant, Akbar Nanee,
to endeavour to procure us a house. He suc-
ceeded in renting two rooms and some out-
houses for the cattle, at the modest rate of
two rupees per diem. These lodgings were
situated in a garden, about a quarter of a mile
from the city, and our landlord was a Burmese
leather merchant. The two rooms occupied
the lower story of the house, and each of them
was about twenty feet square, without windows
or any opening save the doors, and entirely
destitute of anything like furniture, which had,
perhaps, been removed to make way for us.
A dozen roughly-constructed steps led to our
O J JT
basement, and above, in what I suppose were
the garrets of the establishment, was located
the master of the house and his family. As the
floors were made of split bamboos, which bent
easily under the weight of a body, we could
tell by the movements overhead that there was-
a considerable number of persons billeted
there. In fact, our quarters, though tolerably
convenient, were not retired enough to be
24 TRA VEL AND SPORT.
pleasant; and at night the noise and chatter-
ing overhead was a complete nuisance. Nei-
ther was the place free from insectile pests.
One room was kept to ourselves, the other
was devoted to the use of the servants. Cook-
ing and other domestic operations were
carried on in a courtyard at the back of the
house, where there was a well of excellent
spring- water.
CHAPTER II.
.Description of the country near Sittang. Plantations of
rice, &c. Buddhist priest. Patandah. An evening's
shooting. Extraordinary sagacity of an elephant.
Anecdote of another elephant. Streams. Wild coun-
try. The Salween. Difficulty in crossing. Shallangot.
; Preparations for sport. Forest and jungle. In the
jaws of a tiger. Extent of my injuries. Kindness of a
native woman. Several tigers shot by my companions.
A native clawed. Destruction of human life by wild
beasts. Trophies of the chase. Eesume our journey.
Difficulties of travelling in the forest. Rate of progress.
Deer shot.
A NARRATIVE OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 27
ON the 16th of October, at half-past six in
the morning, we resumed our journey. The
main road turns off, at Sittang, to Beeling; but
a good native pathway runs eastward, the di-
rection in which we wished to proceed. Close
under the walls of Sittang there were some
fields of rice and other grain, but within three
or four miles of the city, and whilst its spires
and domes were still visible in the distance, all
signs that the land was under cultivation ceased.
The last cultivated patch passed was a planta-
tion of bananas, near which was a small hamlet,
consisting of about half a dozen huts. Lofty
trees skirted the path, and were scattered
sparsely over the plain ; but large quantities of
timber had been felled in this neighbourhood
at some time, and at present the ground was
covered with a growth of jungle, young trees,
and bamboo canes. The face of the country
428 A NARRATIVE
maintained this character for about eight miles,
when we again met with extensive rice, maize,
and wheat fields, and plantations of bananas,
cotton, and indigo. The ground was level, and
about two miles ahead, as we thought, we could
see a large village ; but we found it was at least
double the distance off we had calculated.
Arriving at the village we found it very in-
convenient to wait until the baggage came up,
and we resolved that in future it should be sent
on ahead instead of being left to follow in our
rear. There were not many people in the
village, the bulk of them being at work in the
fields. Amongst those who came to look at us
was a Buddhist priest, who spoke Hindos-
tanee sufficiently well to make himself in-
telligible to Captain Lacy. He asked for
money, and we gave him a couple of annas, and
proceeded to make use of him by telling him
to ask some of the people to find us a lodging.
He said he could provide us, and led us to a
dilapidated shed, for the use of which he was
careful to inform us we would have to pay six
annas a night. As we had no intention of
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 29,
occupying it for more than a few hours we did
not haggle about the payment, though ten to
one the hut was not this fellow's property.
From him we learned that the name of the
village was Patandah ; that the inhabitants
were mostly engaged in agriculture, and dis-
posed of their produce at Sittang. The number
of inhabitants in the village he stated to be
ten thousand, an assertion that made us stare.
From the number of huts and houses that we
saw we concluded that two thousand would be:
nearer the mark.
The oxen came up a little before mid-day,,
looking fresh considering their twelve miles'
march, and we pitched our tent outside the
village. Just at this time a great many of the
natives came in from their work, and speedily
formed a large ring about us. They undoubt-
edly thought us great curiosities ; and our
horses also came in for a share of the public
attention, being apparently considered as much
of a novelty as wild beasts in England. These-
people, like all other Burmese, were vivacious
and noisy, and it added materially to our
30 A NARRATIVE
comfort when they dispersed and went about
their business. Our friend the Buddhist, how-
ever, established himself amongst us, palpably
in the hopes of what the Scotch call "wee
pickings." To get rid of him we offered him
some devilled ham, taking care to explain what
it was. He was off like a shot.
Having made inquiries, and found that no
tigers or other large game were usually to be
found within seven or eight miles of the neigh-
bourhood, we went out in the evening with our
fowling-pieces to shoot birds. In the space of
two hours and a half our three guns had
bagged fifty-three partridges, besides several
birds of the snipe genus. Mr. Grant also shot
a very beautiful pheasant. The partridges
were found mostly about the maize-fields the
snipes near a small stream that ran round
the northern side of the village.
Upon returning to our camping-place we
were much amused by the extraordinary sa-
gacity displayed by an elephant. These ani-
mals, I need scarcely mention, are universally
used as beasts of burden throughout Southern
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 3 r
Asia. About a hundred yards from our tent
two men had been engaged for some time in
making and baking huge corn -cakes for feeding
the elephants. When these cakes were served
out, each of the sagacious brutes carefully
weighed them with its trunk, to ascertain that
it had its due allowance. One elephant was
dissatisfied, and sulkily threw its cake on one
side, and refused to eat till the keeper had
made good the deficiency. I recollect (the
reader will pardon me for going out of my way
to relate the anecdote) another singular inci-
dent that I witnessed in Bengal. Some troops
were .changing quarters, and an artillery field-
forge was packed upon the back of an elephant.
The poor brute was willing to carry it all with
the exception of one of the heavy wheels, and
.as fast as this wheel was placed upon its back
it threw it off. The keeper beat and stabbed
the poor creature most unmercifully with an
iron hook, similar in shape to a boat-hook ; but
in vain. The elephant left the cantonment
without the obnoxious wheel.
OcT.lv* Sent the servants forward about
32 A NARRATIVE
six o'clock, with directions as to route, and
orders to halt as soon as the oxen betrayed
signs of fatigue. The interpreter, Angbang,
we kept behind to accompany us, as it was
our intention to ride slowly. After leaving-
Patandah, we soon entered a very wild and
broken tract of country, with a bad native
road running through its midst. Four mile&
from the village we came to a river, bridged
with a very rickety wooden structure, so that
we thought it necessary to use the precaution
of dismounting, and crossing one at a time.
Two villages and a few cultivated fields were
passed in the next three or four miles, and
the road then ran through a dense and gloomy
forest, where the path was only just wide
enough to permit us to ride in file. In another
two hours we came up with the servants, who
had pitched the tent, and lighted watch-fires.
This was the first night we had camped away
from the vicinity of human habitation.
The following morning we started with the
baggage, and speedily came to a large river,
fully a hundred yards wide. We soon dis-
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 33
covered, however, that it was fordable. All
these rivers and streams recently passed, may
be tributaries to the Sittang or Salween.
Nothing worthy of note occurred during the
day. Passing through a fine, forest-covered
country, but no signs seen of inhabitants.
Just before halting crossed another stream of
large size. Three miles farther came to a
small hamlet. The people displayed the same
inquisitiveness met with at all other places
hitherto passed ; but received us kindly
enough.
OCT. 19. By eight o'clock this morning we
had arrived on the right bank of the great
Salween River. It was, at the point where we
struck it, quite half a mile wide, both banks
being fringed with splendid forest trees.
How to get transported to the opposite
side was a difficulty that caused us a great
deal of anxiety. Our best and wisest course
appeared to be to proceed southwards along
the bank until we came to some village
where boats could be obtained.
We followed this plan, and soon came to
3
34 A NARRATIVE
a small hamlet, abreast of which, on the
opposite shore, was another and much larger
village. The only boats procurable here were
so small that the oxen had to be ferried
over one at a time : consequently more than
two hours were lost in conveying the whole
of the baggage and servants across, and we
decided to spend the night where we were.
We could not learn the name of the smaller
village : the one where we stayed was
called Shall an gat. It possessed several good
houses, the residences of the native magis-
trates and chief men, and four temples.
The exact point at which we crossed the
Salween, I cannot tell ; but suppose it to
be about eighty or ninety miles above Mar-
taban. Several alligators were seen in the
river, and troops of monkeys, and parrots
in great variety, in the forests ; but as yet
we had not seen any large game. At
Shallangat, however, we were informed that
wild elephants and tigers, as well as deer
and wild boars, were numerous in the ad-
joining forests ; and we determined to have
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 35
a day or two's sport before leaving this
place.
We did not lodge in the village, but pitched
our tent near the river, and the servants
erected rude shanties of boughs and long grass
for their own accommodation. The nights had
been cold lately, and the heat, during daytime,
never greater than 79, and often as low as 68
and 70.
OCT. 20. We were up and ready for
action by four o'clock, having engaged two
of the village shekaries the preceding night.
They put in an appearance punctually ; but
accompanied by fifty or sixty of the villagers
to serve as beaters. As we felt quite com-
petent to beat up our own game, and only re-
quired guiding to the spot where it was to be
found, we gave these gentry to understand
that if they went we should expect to have
their services gratuitously, especially as we
were doing them a favour in helping to rid
the country of a great pest. The hint was
sufficient. Finding they had nothing to ex-'
pect in the way of reward, they declined to
32
36 A NARRATIVE
expose their precious persons, and fell away
to their business two or three at a time.
Striking off almost due south, we followed a
narrow footpath through a dense forest where
daylight was nearly excluded, our native
huntsmen leading the way. The trees were
at least a hundred and fifty feet in height,
and matted together with gigantic creepers
bearing flowers of most gorgeous colours and
patterns. After four miles or so, we made a
direct turn to the left, and shortly afterward
emerged from the forest on to a jungle-covered
plain of considerable extent. Patches of
bamboo thicket were here numerous, and
afforded, our guide said, an usual lurking-
place for tigers and boars. We accordingly
made dispositions for the attack, ranging the
shekaries and servants of whom we had
brought four with us besides Akbar, and Laoo
(my own servant) in a line with intervals,
and placing ourselves near the centre. Ad-
vancing slowly, we beat every patch of long
grass and clump of bushes that was large
enough to conceal any animal of size. The
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 37
first game started was a large boar, which
made off at a great rate, and was speedily
followed by two more of its disturbed com-
panions. We did not interfere with them,
our object being to shoot tigers, of which we
began to fear there was not so many in the
neighbourhood as our 'guide had represented.
After three hours' fatiguing work we had
reached the eastern extremity of the plain,
and found ourselves amongst some low hillocks,
fairly sprinkled over with large trees, and
covered with tall, rank grass, where we made
a halt for rest and refreshments. In the
afternoon we continued our march, but with
no signs of being likely to meet with sport,
and about four o'clock we turned towards our
camp. We marched along carelessly, without
observing order or caution, and were not pre-
pared to take advantage of Akbar's warning,
when he exclaimed, " Beware, sahib," and a full-
grown tiger went past us at a gallop. A
straggling volley was fired after it, and though
evidently not struck, the beast stopped, and
rearing itself up on its hind-legs clawed the
3 8 A NARRATIVE
bark of a tree, just as a cat scratches the
leg of a chair or tab]e. Mr. Grant and
myself fired simultaneously, but without
effect, and before a thought of the creature's
intention had time to flash through my mind,
I was down under its paws.
Seizing me by the left thigh, the tiger
shook me as a dog shakes a rat ; and then,
growling horribly, dragged me at a tremendous
rate through the thick undergrowth of the
forest. I heard the frightened shouts of my
companions and the report of several shots,
and then a dizziness came over me ; but I
did not lose consciousness. As I was jolted
through the forest I several times caught
hold of the trees, but the tiger, growling
fiercely, shook me free in an* instant. Al] this
time, though quite calm and collected, I felt
a strong desire to preserve my existence, and
never for a moment experienced that apathy
with regard to my danger that some persons
have described under similar circumstances.
How long I was in the jaws of this brute
I cannot tell. It seemed to me an age before the
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 39
creature stopped. My companions afterwards
declared that I had been dragged at least half
a mile from the spot where I was first seized.
They followed as fast as they could run, and
though I was unaware of it at the time,
never lost sight of the beast. To this cir-
cumstance I undoubtedly owe my life : for
had there been any delay in rendering me
assistance it must have been fatal to me.
The moment the tiger halted it released my
thigh, and seemed to be attracted by the
approach of my companions ; though, as yet,
I did not see them myself. Taking advantage
of this release, I tried to creep to the shelter
of some tall bushes near at hand. In an in-
stant, and with a terrible roar, the creature
pounced upon me, seizing me this time by the
shoulder, and at the same time lacerating my
chest with its claws. A shot was fired, and I
heard the bullet whistle overhead. Fear of
hitting me had caused them to fire too high.
A second and third shot were equally un-
successful ; and the tiger, again releasing me,
began to Kck up the blood which oozed through
40 A NARRATIVE
my jacket. I began to feel very faint, and
could not suppress a groan. Several times
the tiger dabbed his paws, apparently in play,
about my face, but did not use its claws, for-
tunately for me. Presently the beast seemed
to be seized with a sudden rage, and com-
menced to spit like an angry cat at some one
approaching, whose footsteps I could hear,
but I could not see him owing to my position,
for I was lying flat on my back. There was
the sharp bang of a rifle close to my head,
a heavy weight fell across me, and then I
comprehended that my brave friend, Grant,
was pulling me from under the dead body of
the tiger.
Captain Lacy and some of the others came
up, and proceeded to staunch the flow of
blood from my wounds. That on my thigh
was the worst injury. The flesh was bitten
and torn to such an extent that the bone
was visible. The wounds on the chest were
also severe ; but my shoulder was not much
injured. When the bleeding was stopped I
fainted, and upon recovering consciousness,
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 41
found I was being carried along upon a rough
litter formed of boughs. I suffered great
pain, especially in the leg : and was exceed-
ingly thankful when we arrived at our camp-
ing place.
As soon as the news spread about Shal-
langat that a tiger had been slain, the people
came crowding round our tent to see it. The
hubbub they created was horrible. There was
shouting, singing, beating of tomtoms and
drums, blowing of reeds, dancing and exult-
ing over the dead animal. In my weak state
the noise was particularly irritating; and as
it was in vain to appeal to the sympathies of
these people, the dead beast was removed to
a distance, where the rejoicing continued nearly
all night.
The following day fever had set in, and
towards mid-day I became delirious. With
a few lucid intervals, I was in this state for
five days.
OCT. 26. Better to-day, but very weak
and unable to move. In the evening the
wound in my thigh commenced bleeding afresh.
42 A NARRATIVE
Great trouble in staunching it, and I lost
consciousness for two hours.
OCT. 28. Very weak and low spirited.
My companions manifest much uneasiness
about my wound. It looks as though about
to mortify. Next day : better, but signs of
inflammation.
OCT. 30. A very hot day. Thermometer
92 in the shade. Suffered excruciating pain,
and became thoroughly exhausted.
Nov. 3. Cannot tell whether I shall re-
cover or not. Pain almost unendurable, and
wound looks very bad. , A native woman
brought me a dish of boiled rice and chopped
gourds. The poor creature was evidently
anxious to do what she could, and we sent her
away with a reward for her kindness. I
need scarcely say that I had no stomach for
her mess.
Nov. 8. Seem to be on the road to re-
covery. Wound healing nicely, and I can
read and write.
Nov. 15. Managed to walk a few paces
to-day. Return of health and strength only
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 43
a matter of time now. Since my illness, have
been most kindly and attentively nursed by
Captain Lacy,* Mr. Grant, my servant Laoo,
and others of our attendants. Lacy and
Grant have been out shooting several times,,
and met with good sport. On the 12th,
three tigers were killed; on the 13th, one;
and on the following day an inhabitant of
Shallangat fell in the way of an enraged
and wounded tiger, and was badly clawed
before he could be rescued. Captain Lacy
says that the tigers of this neighbourhood
are the fiercest he has met with, and the
natives assure us that frequently two or
three persons are carried of and killed by
wild beasts in the space of a month. They
manifest the greatest joy and excitement
when a tiger is killed. Their only means
of destroying them is by poison and pitfalls,,
as they are far too timid to face the beast
when at large.
Amongst other trophies of the chase secured
by my companions, were a wild boar or two,
a very handsome leopard, and several antelopes
44 A NARRATIVE
or deer, besides an innumerable number of
birds, and other small game.
Nov. 20. As I felt well and strong enough
to ride to-day, we left Shallangat in the
afternoon, and passing very near the scene
of my accident, continued our journey through
the forest eastward. On my account the
distance traversed did not exceed eight miles,
and the tent wa,s pitched in the depth of
one of the most noble and magnificent forests
I have ever seen. The trees were of great
height, with splendid foliage and coloured
blossom, and swarmed with gorgeous parrots
and other birds. There was no path, and in
many places the servants were obliged to
cut away the thicket and creepers before
the horses and oxen could effect a passage.
Travelling was thus rendered troublesome,
and we had. to keep a sharp look-out lest
the creepers which ran across our road should
become entwined around the horses' legs.
Near our camping place was a stream of
beautifully clear water, about five feet deep,
but having pools of ten or twelve feet in
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 45.
depth. Immense shoals of small fish were
seen in it, though all our efforts to catch
some of them were unavailing.
Nov. 21. Left our ground about seven
o'clock. The oxen and horses swam across the
stream, the men wading over with the bag-
gage. Our progress was very slow indeed,
owing to the closeness of the undergrowth
and the strength of the creepers, which some-
times nearly dragged us off our horses as we
rode against them. The forest appears to be
becoming more dense, and many monkeys as
well as parrots harbour in the tree-tops.
After being on the move six hours, we
calculated we had not advanced more than
twelve miles. Next day we were quite as
much retarded, and suffered some inconvenience
from want of water. The distance got over
was not above ten miles. On the 23rd, how-
ever, there was a change in the character of
the country ; and though it was still almost
entirely covered with forest, it was not so
close, and was less choked up with under-
growth. Water was also abundant, several
46 A NARRATIVE OF TRAVEL AND SPORT.
brooks and rivulets being passed. The dis-
tance marched this day would be about fifteen
miles, partly in a north-east and partly in an
east direction.
In the evening we went on foot in search
of game. Near one of the brooks we found
the fresh footmarks of deer ; and, after trac-
ing them for four or five miles, came up with
a large herd of antelopes, of which we shot
three. A fourth was wounded, but as we
might have had to follow it for miles, we did
not pursue it. On our way back to camp
we amused ourselves with pheasant-shooting,
the birds being numerous and of most mag-
nificent plumage.
CHAPTER III.
Party of natives and their village. Paucity of large
game met with. Rough ground. Wild elephants.
One of them shot. Elephants' feet not a dainty. The
river Thungyen. Cobras and green snakes. Our
servants lost.; A night out and its drawbacks. Wild
beasts and their fondness for water. Captain Lacy goes
in search of the men. The luggage arrives. The passage
of the river. A day's rest. Kesults of an evening's
shooting. Impenetrable forests compel us to make de-
tours. Change in the character of the country. Plains
covered with beautiful flowers. Average distance an ox
can travel. Arrive at a large village. Surrounded by
the crowd. A native girl seized by a tiger. Number
of natives killed by tigers.
A NARRATIVE OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 49
Nov. 24. During the last few days we have
seen no signs of the inhabitants of the coun-
try, but this morning, soon after starting, we
came upon nine natives cutting wood, and
they pointed out to us the road to their
village. We found a good beaten track, and
in less than half an hour reached the hamlet,
which was surrounded by about a score acres
of rice and maize fields. We passed through
it without stopping, exciting a great deal of
attention from the natives ; not unmixed,
apparently, with astonishment and curiosity
as to our business there.
The country eastward of the village was
flat in the extreme, but the scenery pretty,
and streams of water numerous, though all of
them were mere rivulets in size. The trees
consisted principally of palms, oak, ebony,
banyans, and a great variety of beautiful,
4
50 A NARRATIVE
feathery - foliaged bamboos. The taller trees
forming the forests were of species unknown
to any of our party. Some delicious peaches
were found growing wild ; but although this
tract of country was very thinly inhabited -
almost deserted in fact we saw no signs of
wild animals : indeed, hitherto no game has
been seen except when special search has been
made for it ; yet, according to native accounts,
the neighbourhood swarms with tigers, leo-
pards, and antelopes. Birds and monkeys are
very plentiful.
As one of our chief objects in undertak-
ing this journey was to enjoy sport on fresh
ground, we determined, after a long consul-
tation, to halt at the next convenient spot,
and thoroughly explore the country through
which we were passing. A spot, however,
to suit our taste was not found this day,
and the next, leaving the servants to push
forward alone, with orders to halt about
mid-day if they did not meet with a village,
we rode off in search of a little excitement,
taking with us our interpreter, Angbang,
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 51
who professed to have some knowledge of
this region, and another man to look after
the horses, should we have occasion to leave
them behind at any point. *
The ground was rough in places and trying
for the horses, and we were delayed some
time by Mr. Grant's horse casting a shoe,
which had to be replaced before we could pro-
ceed. Northward an extensive forest seemed
to threaten an impediment to our progress
in that direction, and we therefore rode in
a north-east course, the two men keeping up
with our horses without trouble, notwithstand-
ing the irregularity of the ground, which
soon became undulating and hilly. Between
ten and eleven o'clock we came within sight
of a river, the course of which was traceable
for several miles. To this river we began to
make our way, and when within half a mile
of its bank, discovered a herd of about sixty
elephants quietly browsing on the plain. We
had not expected to meet with such large
game as this ; but quickly dismounting, we
left the horses in charge of the men, and ad-
42
52 A NARRATIVE
vanced on foot. There were plenty of trees
scattered about, and forming groves here
and there, so that we were able to get
close to the elephants without being observed
by the wary animals. We decided that all
three of us should fire at the same beast, my-
self and Mr. Grant aiming behind the ear,
and Captain Lacy at the shoulder. It was
some time before we could get a favourable
opportunity for firing ; for the elephants kept
very close together, and the largest animal
which we wished to kill was surrounded by
its companions. In trying to creep round to
a better position we were discovered, and the
herd commenced to move away, though not
very quickly, the large male coming to the
rear as if to cover their retreat. He stood
looking at us, his great ears twitching ner-
vously, and his trunk rolled up in a coil. My-
self and Grant were for firing at once ; but
Captain Lacy declared that to aim at the front
would be useless : while he and Grant, there-
fore, moved cautiously round to the creature's
left flank, I kept in front to attract its atten-
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. \
53
tion and prevent it from turning to face them.
The report of their rifles rang out sharply,
and reverberated across the plain, and for a
moment the elephant stood as if stunned, and
then ran quickly to a small tree, against which
it leaned so heavily that the trunk snapped
in two, and the poor beast fell with a shock
that shook the ground perceptibly. As it was
making violent efforts to rise again I fired at
it, and my companions gave it the contents
of their second barrels. While we were
reloading, our victim lashed the ground angrily,
and with its proboscis made the gravel fly
for many yards around. To ease it of pain
as quickly as possible, we went quite close to
deliver our second volley, upon which it ex-
tended its trunk towards us and trumpeted
defiantly. Three more shots, and the gigantic
frame stiffened rigidly. To my mind there
was something sad, yet sublime, in the death
of the huge beast, and I was almost sorry to
think I had had a hand in the slaughter of it.
We secured the tusks, the feet, and a little
of the flesh, and leaving the immense carcass
54 A NARRATIVE
to decay where it had fallen, rode away. The
excitement had been too great to admit of
our noticing the movements of the remainder
of the herd, and they were quite out of sight
now.
We had eaten nothing since early morning,
and were, in consequence, very hungry.
Riding down to the river, therefore, we
watered our horses, and made preparations
for a meal. The elephant's feet and flesh
were roasted, we being anxious to follow
the example of other travellers, and taste
the novelty. The novelty, however, was all
about it worthy of praise ; and we would
have much preferred a little venison, or better
still, good English beef.
After carefully consulting a map and con-
sidering our past route, we felt certain that
the river upon whose bank we were resting
must be the Thungyen, in which case we
were within seventy or eighty miles of the
town or city of Lahaing, where it was our
intention to make a call. The bend of the
river at this point was about five hundred
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 55
yards wide, the stream running due north
with a rather rapid current. The banks were
prettily clothed with trees and jungle, the
creepers and parasitical plants hanging down
from the branches of the former into the
water like lines. A great many snakes har-
boured in the long grass near the water,
amongst which we recognized several of the
deadly cobras or hooded snakes, and a pretty
little green, mottled reptile, about fifteen
inches in length, which I believe is common
all over India.
We knew that our servants would be sure
to halt when they came to this river, and we
therefore moved southwards, expecting to
find them encamped on its bank. To our
surprise and annoyance, however, we rode
eight or nine miles without meeting with
them, and came to the conclusion that they
had halted before reaching the river. Both
ourselves and horses were very tired, as well
as the two men, and it was evident we could
not ride much farther ; but the nights being
generally chilly, it was not pleasant to look
56 A NARRATIVE
forward to a bivouac on the ground without
the shelter of tent and blanket, and as we
had come farther south than the men could
possibly have done, we rode some distance
back again, still in the hope that they would
come up. Nothing was seen of them, and no
answering shots greeting those that were
fired to attract attention, we picketed the
horses in the most sheltered nook we could
find, and lay on the ground in our ? cloaks
near them. Notwithstanding the heat of a
large fire we suffered much from cold and
damp, and were continually disturbed by the
wild beasts which came to the river for the
purpose of drinking and bathing. It was
sufficiently star-light for us to see herds of
elephants, rhinoceroses, antelopes, deer and
buffaloes; and we heard the roar of tigers
and other beasts of prey. Considering how
comparatively little large game we had
hitherto met with, a surprising number of
wild animals visited the water during the
night.
It is needless to say we were on the
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 57
move as soon as it was daylight. Going down
to the river to perform our ablutions, we met
.a small herd of antelopes, and shot a couple
of them. About five o'clock we sent off the
two men in search of Akbar and the baggage ;
and Captain Lacy rode away on the same
errand, all three of them going in different
directions. Hour after hour passed, and
neither the messengers nor the others ap-
peared, and the anxiety of myself and Mr.
Grant began to give place to a feeling of
absolute alarm. At length, between eight
and nine o'clock, the baggage train was seen
slowly making its way down to the river, a
full mile farther down the stream. In answer
to our shouts* the men altered their course,
and made direct for the spot where we stood.
They had seen nothing of Captain Lacy or
either of the two men, and said they had
passed the night about an hour and a half s
inarch from the river, not being aware of its
proximity until this morning. An hour
* In the calm still plains of a wild country, the shout of
a man can be heard distinctly for from a mile and a half to
two or even three miles, according to position, &c.
58 A NARRATIVE
later, Angbang and the other man came in.
They had, after a long search, found the
track of the oxen, and followed it until they
rejoined us, being unable to overtake them
before. It was vexatious that Captain Lacy
did not know this, as he was evidently
putting himself to the trouble of a tiring
and useless search.
A new difficulty was now before us the
passage of the river. After discussing many
different means of crossing it, we decided to
swim the [cattle over, and construct a raft for
the conveyance of the goods. We all set to
work immediately, and soon had a tolerably
large, though somewhat rough, raft. We
found upon trial that it would float all our
goods safely; and we proceeded to make
some rude paddles for its guidance and pro-
pulsion.
About noon, Captain Lacy came back, very
much vexed at the unnecessary trouble to
which he had been subjected, and with his
horse nearly knocked up. After dinner and
a short rest, we embarked, three of the men
OF TRA VEL AND- SPORT. 59
swimming over to guide the cattle and horses,
the remainder of us taking post on the raft.
Captain Lacy had a smaller raft put together
for the conveyance of his own horse, as it did
not appear equal to the exertion of so long a
swim. The oxen and horses got across in
about half an hour, but the rafts were not so
successful. They proved unmanageable, and
drifted five miles or more down the stream.
Lacy's horse became frightened and restive,
got off the raft into the water, dragging its
master with it, and narrowly escaped drown-
ing. When at length we reached the
opposite shore, we were all so tired as to be
scarcely able to pitch the tent, and make the
necessary arrangements for passing the night
comfortably. We were too exhausted to be
much disturbed by the howls of wild beasts ;
but we took the necessary precaution of light-
ing fires all round our encampment as a pro-
tection to the oxen and horses.
Nov. 27. All the party, and the horses,
showing traces of fatigue, we determined to
remain in camp to-day for a thorough rest.
60 A NARRATIVE
In the evening, myself, Grant, and Lacy shot
over the ground in the neighbourhood of our
tent. The result was a small antelope, thirty
common Indian partridges, five superb
pheasants, and a few parrots. A very small
and lively kind of monkey is here numerous,
but they keep in the tops of the tallest trees,
far out of reach of small-shot. Two cobras
were seen and killed. The largest was six
feet in length. These horrid creatures seem
too plentiful to be pleasant, considering their
bite is usually fatal in the space of two or
three hours. A few other snakes were seen,
but of a harmless species, and a great variety
of lizards.
Nov. 28. Immediately after breakfast we
resumed our journey^ keeping as nearly
due east as the nature of the country would
permit. Much forest lay in our way, some
patches of it so dense that we were compelled
to make long detours to round it, in con-
sequence of which the actual distance ad-
vanced towards the city of Lahaing, where
we intended to make a halt, was not more
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 61
than six miles, though we had probably
marched more than double that distance.
Many gutta-percha trees were seen to-day,
some of them eighty or ninety feet in height,
and seven or eight in diameter. A large
portion of the forest was composed of teak
trees of large dimensions ; there were also
other trees of species unknown to us, though
I fancy we recognized the lime.
Nov. 29. Marked change in the character
of the country. Still considerable tracts of
forest, but some fine open plains sprinkled
with clumps of trees. After advancing eight
miles we found the ground hilly, but speak-
ing at a rough guess, none of the elevations
were more than two hundred feet above the
neighbouring country. About one o'clock a
small herd of antelope passed in front of
us. We could not get near them, and after
several harmless shots they got clear
away.
I have never seen more beautiful flowers
than those that grew upon these plains and
hills. They appeared principally to be a
62 A NARRATIVE
kind of lily, of various colours, red, yellow,
white, and some variegated, and growing
to the height of our horses' girths. There
was also a very pretty blue flower with a
charming scent, and growing so thickly that
the ground seemed from a distance to be of
a bright blue colour, with here and there
patches of red, yellow, and white, where the
lilies predominated. We passed the night
upon one of these plains.
Nov. 30. The country being favourable
that is tolerably open, with good grassy
plains we performed a long march, advancing
quite sixteen miles. I speak of this as a
long march because we had found by experi-
ence that the oxen were not capable of
travelling more than eight or ten miles a day
on an average. Towards the close of this
day's journey the country once more assumed
a thickly wooded appearance ; but we saw no
animal life, with the exception of birds. At
three o'clock in the afternoon we came within
sight of a large village, and an hour later
arrived at it. Our arrival, as was invariably
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 63
the case at all villages we came to, caused a
great commotion amongst the natives, and
apparently some little fear, as the women
and children screamed outrageously ; but when
we commenced to quietly erect our tent on
a convenient grassy space near the centre
of the village, a crowd of the inhabitants
gathered round us, squatting on their
haunches, and watching us attentively; and
they remained until we had cooked our
dinner and commenced to eat it. As the close
proximity of four or five hundred people (there
was fully that number) was not pleasant, we
instructed Angbang, our interpreter, to re-
quest them to disperse. They did so instantly
and quickly, and only a few of the men
remained watching us from a respectful dis-
tance. In the evening we walked about
the village and tried to make ourselves
friendly with the people. We were only *
partially successful, as they seemed to
have a sort of dread or awe of us. One
old man whom we attracted to us and
questioned through Angbang, informed us
64 A NARRATIVE
that very few of the villagers had seen
a European before, and it was more
than thirty years since a white man had
passed through the village. Who this white
man was, or what was his business there,
we could not ascertain ; but our informant
declared that he was accompanied by a
large party of natives from the north (i.e.
Burmen, or perhaps Hindoos, I cannot be
sure which was meant), who travelled on
horseback, and had pack horses with them.
We could not imagine who this traveller could
have been, or form any probable conjectures
upon the subject.
During the night we were disturbed by
a frightful outcry amongst the natives, which
lasted some time, and was followed by an
incessant drumming until daylight. As all
the natives of India, Burmah, and Siam
k are exceedingly noisy and fond of beating
drums, tomtoms, &c., we did not take much
notice of the disturbance except to anathe-
matize the authors of it. In the morning,
however, the same old man with whom we
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 65
had spoken on the previous evening, came to
our tent, and informed us that a young girl
had been carried away by a tiger. The tiger
had entered the hut where she was sleeping,
and having first apparently killed her with a
blow from its paw, carried off the body. The
whole affair was witnessed by seven or
eight female occupants of the hut, and by
several other persons who were moving about
the village street at the time, for it occurred
soon after midnight a time when most
natives are still moving about but no at-
tempt had been made to follow the beast
or compel it to relinquish its prey. " What
is to be will be," is a favourite maxim with
these people, or rather, indeed, a rule of
life ; and to such an extent do they carry
their apathetic submission to fate, that they
will not even use remedies in cases of disease
or bites of numerous reptiles at least if
the said remedies are European although
they may have witnessed their successful ap-
plication by foreigners.
This, it seems, was not the first visit the
66 A NARRATIVE
tiger had paid to the village, and during
the last four months no less than nineteen
persons had been slain by wild beasts, the
majority of them, our old friend asserted, by
this particular tiger. Of these nineteen,
eleven were children, and one a native hunter,
who had lost his life in endeavouring to
destroy the fearful man-eater. Besides the
poor girl who was killed last night, four
children and one adult had actually been
fetched out of the huts by this audacious
beast, yet the men of the village had
not sufficient pluck to attempt its de-
struction.
We were further informed that a year
or two ago, the tigers were . so numerous
and destructive to human life that the in-
habitants of a village about half a day's
journey to the southward, had been com-
pelled to abandon their houses and take up
their residences in this place, which, by-the-
by, is called Sattybardah. The man-eating
tiger was supposed to have his lair some-
where in the neighbourhood of this deserted
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 67
village. We soon determined to know
where its lair was, and while we cleaned
our rifles and made other preparations, Ang-
bang was sent with the old man to try
and persuade some of the villagers to go
with us as guides. A couple of score of
volunteers presented themselves for this ser-
vice, and we selected six of the most
likely-looking fellows in addition to the old
man himself. We also took with us Laoo,
and two others of our servants, who were
all armed with muskets.
52
CHAPTER IV.
Traces of the accident. Preparations for the destruction of
the tiger. Remains of the victim. Unsuccessful search.
A deserted village A leopard shot. Captain Lacy's
account of his adventure with a tiger. A native badly
hurt. Eeturn to Sattybardah. Offer a reward for the
discovery of the man-eater's lair. Evidences of its dread-
fully destructive powers. Prepare to meet our antagonist.
A double adventure. Marvellous tenacity of life.
Excitement at Sattybardah on the news of our success.
Size and weight of the tigers. Large bag of game made
on the 4th of December. Indian bird of paradise.
Bees. Parrots. Villages. Tormented by mosquitoes.
A NARRATIVE OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 71
PREVIOUSLY to starting in search of our
game we went to view the spot where
the girl was seized. It was a large oblong
hut with a doorway at one end. The only
traces of the catastrophe to be seen were
a few large spots of blood, and some marks
of the tiger's claws on the hard earth of
the floor, as though the beast had made
several long scratches. There were, also,
four distinct marks of its claws on the
wood-work of the threshold, as well as blood
smeared about ; the doorway being so narrow
that the creature seemed to have had some
difficulty in forcing itself and its dead or un-
conscious burden through the confined open-
ing. Outside, other blood spots were visible
upon the ground, traceable, according to
reports, for about half a mile ; but no one
had had courage to follow this dreadful clue
7 2 A NARRATIVE
to the course of the beast further. So great
was the consternation, that not a single
man had gone to his work in the fields,
and the people seemed almost afraid to
appear in the streets of the village.
When we started on our errand of re-
venge, a large crowd of men and women
escorted us to the outskirts of the village,
singing, shouting, and beating small drums,
blowing cow-horns, and pipes, and creating
altogether a most horrible hubbub, intended
to encourage us and strengthen our nerves
for -the forthcoming fight with the blood-
thirsty monarch of the forest. Our nerves,
however, needed little bracing, for we were
all three itching to meet this monster and
put it beyond the power of doing further
mischief.
We traced the blood spots for two miles,
and at places where the body had been
forced through the bushes, found fragments of
the girl's clothing hanging on the thorns.
There were also many marks of the tiger's
feet, so that we had no difficulty in following
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 75
the track. About two miles and a half
from Sattybardah, we came to the spot where
the beast had made his feast. The victim's
bones were strewn about, some of them not
thoroughly stripped of the flesh. The left
thigh and the pelvis remained untouched ;
and the head was also found, but with the
face horribly gnawed and disfigured. The
ground was covered with blood and frag-
ments of the poor creature's clothing.
After collecting together in a sack all
the remains that could be found, and
sending a man back to the village with
them, we commenced to beat all the thickets
and brakes within a mile around, but with-
out finding the tiger. This was rather
strange, as these animals after eating a meal
always retire a short distance and sleep for
some hours. Our guides insisted that the lair
of the beast we were in search of was near the
village mentioned above, and said we should
find it there ; but we were of a different
opinion, as it was out of all reason to sup-
pose a fed tiger would go a distance described
74 A NARRATIVE
as half a day's journey. However, a long
search convinced us that there was no chance
of meeting with our man-eater here, and we
determined to proceed to the village in ques-
tion, in the hope of meeting with sport of
some sort. An old native pathway pointed
out the direction we were to take, and a
wilder forest track I have seldom passed
through. Not only were the trees exceed-
ingly lofty and thickly matted with parasitical
plants ; but the ground was much intersected
with rocky ravines, at the bottom of most of
which small streams of water ran. Three small
herds of antelopes were met with, and five
of the animals were killed, each weighing about
forty or fifty pounds. We had marched a good
twelve miles before the village was reached,
and so much time had been consumed, that
it was then drawing towards evening.
The village was a most desolate and dreary-
looking place ; the houses in ruins, many of
them with the roofs rotting away, some al-
ready fallen in. The fields in its neighbour-
hood, once well cultivated, were become a
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 75
wilderness, overgrown with shrubs and jungle
plants. The stillness of death reigned about
the place, but as we walked amongst the huts,
many small beasts of prey rushed out through
the half-blocked doorways and holes in the
walls. They appeared principally to be a
species of hyaena, and some wild cats of large
size. One leopard tried to escape from a
dilapidated hut near the centre of the village,
but speedily rolled in the dust, pierced by
five bullets.
The best conditioned hut having been
selected for our temporary habitation, fires
were lighted and we proceeded to cook a
meal of antelope venison. When this repast
was over it was about seven o'clock, a time
when the beasts of prey are moving about in
search of a quarry, and we sallied forth to
make another search for our man-eating tiger,
though with small hopes of meeting with it
so far away from the scene of its bloody
exploit. We divided our attendants into
two parties, Captain Lacy proceeding with
one division to the right of the village, myself
76 A\NARRATIVE\
and Mr. Grant leading the other in a west-
erly direction. We thoroughly searched the
country for about three miles, but saw no
game save a few hyaenas, some monkeys and
birds. About nine o'clock, however, we
heard shots fired in quick succession in the
distance, and knowing that the sounds must
proceed from Captain Lacy's party, we
hastened back as quickly as possible. Other
shots followed, and when, about three quar-
ters of an hour afterwards, we arrived at
the village, we found Captain Lacy there
with the body of a tiger which he had shot
close at hand. It was six feet six inches in
length from the nose to the tail ; but the
natives said it was much smaller than the
man-eater which we were in search of; and
we also were pretty confident that we should
not meet with the terror of Sattybardah so
far away from that village.
Captain Lacy's tiger, however, had afforded
some sport and not bitten the dust without
showing its claws. The following is Captain
Lacy's own account of his adventure.
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 77
" There was not sufficient moon to give any
light, but the stars were shining brightly, and
a sort of twilight still prevailed, so that
objects were distinctly visible. I could see
the monkeys moving noiselessly about in the
tree-tops as our passage disturbed them,
and looking like weird spectres in the gloom
of night. I was walking a little in advance
of the others, the natives being evidently
rather fearful of exposing themselves to
any sudden attack. While I was diligently
beating the bushes in front, it seems the
natives had an eye to the possibility of an
attack from behind, and it was well for them
that they had, for my servant, Angbang, all
at once called my attention to a movement
of the long grass in our rear, as though some
animal was following us. I halted, and the
servants slinked behind me, placing me be-
tween themselves and the suspicious move-
ment, or, I should say, the place where it
had been observed ; for the instant we came
to a standstill, the waving of the grass
ceased. I tried to persuade the blacks to
78 A NARRATIVE
beat up the quarters of our foe which, I felt
sure was a tiger; but the cowardly rascals
only shrunk farther off, and even my own
two men refused to obey orders. So in at it
I went alone. With a savage, barking sort
of growl, the tiger flew out at me, and made
a tremendous spring before I had time to
fire. By stooping I avoided the beast, which
went over my head and alighted six or seven
feet beyond me. He had the contents of my
two barrels in his body in a twinkling, and
either in agony or rage, rolled over and over
like a child at play ; then got up and galloped
straight at the blacks, who fled like a flock
of sheep. But pussy got hold of one fellow
in spite of the shots fired by his companions,
and I think I never in my life heard a man
howl so pitifully. Approaching close enough
to make certain of my aim, I gave pussy two
more bullets from my spare rifles, and she
died with scarcely any contractions of the
muscles, such as are observable in all
animals, more or less, when mortally
wounded."
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT.
The man who had fallen into the clutches
of this tiger was badly hurt. The creature
had struck him a blow upon the shoulder
with its paw, tearing the flesh from the
bone, and leaving it hanging in strips. The
wound presented a shocking spectacle, and
the poor fellow undoubtedly suffered great
pain. We stitched it up, and bandaged the
arm as well as we could under the circum-
stances ; and administered a little brandy
to the man. He is one of the men from
Sattybardah.
DEC. 2. We decided this morning to re-
turn to Sattybardah ; and following the same
road we had come by, we arrived there
about mid-day. There was great enthu-
siasm in the village when the skin of the
tiger was displayed, somewhat damped,
however, at sight of the injured man, and
the knowledge that our trophy had not be-
longed to the terrible man-eater.
DEC. 3. We caused it to be made
known throughout the village, that we would
make another effort to find and destroy the
So A NARRATIVE
tiger which had proved such a terrible pest
to its inhabitants ; and offered a reward to
any one who could discover and lead us to
the haunt of the beast, but few seemed to
care to be engaged in such a search, however
tempting the guerdon. We sent out our
own servants and such of the villagers as
offered themselves; they returned very much
alarmed, declaring they had seen the tiger
close to the spot where the remains of the
native girl were found the day before yester-
day. In ten minutes after the receipt of
this news, we were on our way to the place,
accompanied by nine or ten natives and ser-
vants.
Arriving on the ground, we spent three
hours in a provokingly unsuccessful search
for the wary monster. At the end of this
time we had examined more ground than
previously, and arrived near a deep and very
steep-sided ravine. It struck both Captain
Lacy and Mr. Grant that this ravine was
just the sort of place a tiger would be likely
to choose for its lair ; and the natives thought
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 8r
so too, for they evinced great reluctance to
descend into it. Cautiously making our way
down for the foothold was precarious owing
to the looseness of the soil and steepness of
the sides we commenced a diligent search
amongst the jungle at the bottom of the
ravine. Footmarks of the tiger were abun-
dant, many of them quite fresh ; and, besides
bones and other remains of an enormous
number of antelopes and animals of the deer
tribe, we found two human skulls, and some
of the bones of five human bodies ; but
nothing was seen of the tiger itself. In
many places the grass was crushed down, as
if the animal had been sleeping upon the
spot, and the bark of several small trees bore
marks of the creature's claws.
We were quite sure that the tiger would
return to this ravine, if it were not now
lurking somewhere at hand ; but as the
presence of a large party of men so near its
home might delay or prevent its approach,
we dismissed all our attendants, who were
nothing loath to depart, and prepared our-
6
82 A NARRATIVE
selves for the forthcoming contest. There
were a number of loose blocks of stone lying
about, and with some of these we built up a
sort of parapet to serve as a rest for our
rifles ; then we sat down and quietly waited
the return of the man-eater to its lair,
scarcely venturing to talk to each other, lest
the sound of our voices should alarm the
brute.
Perhaps' an hour had elapsed when a low
purring growl warned us to be on the alert.
The sound came from above, and looking up
we perceived two large tigers on the edge
of the ravine preparing to make a descent.
They were favourably situated for a shot.
Mr. Grant was the first to fire, and one brute
fell to the bottom of the ravine, where it
lay on its back feebly pawing the air. The
second tiger elevated its hair like an angry
cat, and growled fiercely at us, till the advent
of two or three bullets put a stop to its
noise, and it disappeared, being, apparently,
badly hit.
We ran out of our shelter, and seeing
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 83
that the first tiger was lying motionless and
evidently dead, ascended the side of the
ravine as speedily as possible and pursued
the wounded beast, which seemed to be
anxious to make good its escape. The broad
splashes of blood lay in its track so thickly
that we were able to follow it at a run, and
at the distance of half-a-mile or so, came up
with it sprawling on the ground. It growled
out a fierce defiance, but was too far gone to
show fight : indeed, it scarcely needed a
coup-de-grace. Afterwards, upon opening this
tiger, we found it had been shot through
the heart ; and had actually ran full half-a-
mile after receiving the mortal injury one of
the most remarkable incidents of the tenacity
of animal life that ever came under my
notice.
Returning to the ravine to make sure the
other brute was quite hors de combat, we found
that the single bullet fired by Mr. Grant
had killed it; having entered the chest and
travelled downwards into the body.
Leaving the tigers where they had fallen,
62
84 A NARRATIVE
we returned to Sattybardah at once; and
when our success was made known the ex-
citement of the people was intense. They
shouted and danced, and displayed the wildest
gratitude towards us for ridding them of these
fearful pests. A large crowd of the men
rushed away to fetch the tigers, and when
they returned all sorts of insults were heaped
upon the now harmless foe. The dead brutes
were mocked and reviled, beaten with sticks,
kicked, spit upon, and dragged about until
the skins were quite spoiled. The crowd also
renewed the demonstration of their thank-
fulness towards us with so much enthusiasm,
that we were glad to beat a retreat to our
tent ; whither, however, we were followed by
the unpleasantly grateful villagers, who would
not retire until repeatedly requested to do
so. Throughout the night the rejoicings were
kept up with so much hubbub and drumming,
that we found repose impossible.
There could be no doubt but that one of
the tigers we had slain was the beast who
had killed so many of the villagers indeed
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 85
it is reasonable to suppose that they were
both man-eaters. They were male and female.
The female was much the largest, her length
being seven feet eight inches exclusive of
the tail, and she must have weighed at least
six hundred pounds. The male was seven
feet one inch in length, and he was altogether
made more lightly than the female. His
weight was probably no more than four huu
dred, or four hundred and fifty pounds; but
we had no means of ascertaining exactly.
The 4th of December was spent in shooting
birds and monkeys, and the following bag
was made by our three guns : viz., seventeen
monkeys, thirty-two parrots of four different
species, ninety-five partridges ; three birds of
the heron or stork family, and eight birds
known as the Indian bird of paradise. The
monkeys were small, and of an ordinary kind,
common all over Farther India. They, to-
gether with the parrots, were eagerly eaten
by the natives to whom we gave them. The
Indian partridges seem to me to be a con-
necting link between the partridge known to
86 A NARRATIVE
Europeans and the quail. They are larger
than the partridge found in England. The
Indian bird of paradise is said by the natives
of Bengal, where it is plentiful, to be the true
bird of paradise. It is not much larger than
a blackbird, and the plumage is black and
yellow, with some brown about the tail. In
shape it is similar to the New Guinea bird of
paradise. They are hard to kill, and will
carry more shot than a pigeon or rook.
Wild bees are very plentiful in the forests
around Sattybardah, and the decayed trees are
full of their nests containing delicious honey.
It is collected in large quantities by the women
and boys of the village, who smoke the bees
out, but sometimes get terribly stung. A
lad was brought to us this evening with his
face shockingly swollen, he having been
attacked by the enraged insects. We did
what we could for him, and saw him again
the following morning when he was in a high
state of fever.
DEC. 5. We left Sattybardah about half-
past ten, the heat being very moderate, and a
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 87
pleasant breeze blowing from the west. The
natives bade me adieu with shouts and much
expression of goodwill. We have quite won
the hearts of these people by our services in.
the tiger-shooting line. We did not find a
regular beaten road far beyond the village,
but the nature of the ground was such that
travelling was not at all unpleasant or trying.
The trees were here not so tall as those seen
farther westward, but many of them were
quite a hundred feet in height, and generally
free from creepers and parasites. Neither were
many monkeys seen in these trees ; but parrots
were abundant enough. We shot a few of a
very pretty kind. The plumage was crimson,
prettily variegated with black and ultramarine.
The parrot most common in these parts is a
green one with red markings, and we have
seen it fluttering amongst the trees more or
less since we left Rangoon. It is the size of
the grey parrot or rather larger, and is com-
monly to be met with in the shops of Euro-
pean bird-fanciers.
Five or six miles from Sattybardah we
88 A NARRATIVE
passed a small village on our right hand, and
four miles farther another, also on the right,
and distant about three miles. Both these
villages were very small, and lay too much
out of our course to be called at. There was
a considerable space of cultivated land in their
neighbourhood, five or six hundred acres, per-
haps, consisting of rice and maize ; and we
thought it likely that this grain was grown
for trading purposes at Lahaing, or some other
large city. The ground was fertile and well
watered ; one stream that we found might
almost be dignified with the title of a river.
It was sixty or seventy yards broad, but ford-
able in places. Near this river was a maize-
field, surrounded with a hedge of some thorny
plant. It was kept closely cut, and from a
distance looked like an English hedgerow.
Many natives, both men and women, were at
work in the fields ; and a few of them left
their employment to come and stare at us with
eyes full of astonishment.
Our cattle having had a long and thorough
rest at Sattybardah, we were enabled to push
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 89-
on nearly twenty miles before they showed
signs of fatigue. Our first camping place was
on the banks of a small stream ; but this place
swarmed with musquitoes, which tormented us
and our cattle to such an extent that the latter
became almost frantic, and tried hard to break
from their picket-lines. We were in conse-
quence compelled to move away from the
water, and even then did not succeed in wholly
escaping the annoyance of these pertinacious
little wretches. My companions suffered less
than myself, for they took refuge in clouds of
tobacco smoke ; but I am not a smoker, and,
as Lacy facetiously remarked, my face soon
looked like that of a prize-fighter after a
pitched battle ; and at length I was glad to
purchase a reprieve from the torments at any
cost, and overcoming my dislike of tobacco,
placed a pipe between my lips.
CHAPTER V.
'Our position. Monotonous rustling of the leaves. Signs of
inhabitants. Flat country. Rhinoceroses. Fruit.
Pagodas and Priests. Civil disposition of the natives.
Siamese cities. Lahaing. Large number of tame ele-
phants seen in the streets. The city nuisances. Anec-
dotes of hawks. Cock-fighting. Curious soap-stone
ornaments. Strange tricks of a travelling conjuror.
Pleasure evinced by the crowd. Annoying insects and
lizards, and nightmare.
A NARRATIVE OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 93
DECEMBER GTH. We broke up our camp at
six o'clock, and started with the intention of
making a short day's journey of it, so as not
to overtask the oxen. There is a great deal of
forest about this country, which is undoubtedly
very thinly inhabited, although we must be
approaching the great city of Lahaing. We
calculate we are about midway between the
Thungyen and Menam rivers, and perhaps a
little nearer to the latter.
It would be very hot to-day were it not for
a strong breeze blowing from the south-west.
This wind causes a singular monotonous rust-
ling among the trees of the forest, sounding
like the breaking of a heavy surf on the sea-
shore. This region is solitary and desolate to a
melancholy degree, and although there are traces
that the plains are visited by herds of elephants
and other large game, none are to be seen.
94 A NARRATIVE
After advancing ten miles, we came to the
outskirts of an extensive forest, and erected
our tent. It was now only half-past ten
o'clock in the morning, and we determined
that towards evening (it is seldom that much
game is to be met with except during early
morning and evening) we would see what sport
was to be had in this neighbourhood. Mean-
time, while wandering about in search of a shot
at a bird or monkey, we came to a spot where
several trees had been felled, a sign that there
were people somewhere at no great distance off.
We walked a mile or two, in several directions,
in the hopes of discovering a village, but were
disappointed ; and again in the evening we had
no success in our search after game, not even a
partridge being found. We went to bed in
something approaching a bad humour. The
monotonous solitude of this place does not
agree with us.
DEC. 7. The scenery of some parts of the
country is very beautiful, but the absence of
mountains, and even hills, gives it a somewhat
monotonous appearance. Since we have been
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 9$
in the country we have scarcely seen a mound
or hillock, and nothing whatever in the shape
of a range or chain of hills. The highest-
ground we have crossed I should imagine is
not more than two hundred feet above sea
level. But everywhere the forest scenery is
very diversified, and the beauty of the flowers,
especially the creepers, beyond all description.
We made two marches to-day, one in the
morning, the other late in the afternoon. As
we were crossing a small plain towards even-
ing, three rhinoceroses came in sight; but
though we galloped after them full speed, we
could not get near enough for a shot. In
places where the country is not so thickly
wooded, there are abundance of wild plum
trees. The fruit is equal in flavour and larger
in size than that obtained in Europe. We also
met with peaches and apricots. In the morn-
ing a village was seen, but not entered, as it
lay out of our road.
DEC. 8. Very shortly after resuming our
journey, we came within sight of large tracts
of cultivated ground, and two villages, besides
96 A NARRATIVE
many scattered huts and several pagodas.
These latter were situated apart from the
dwellings, and surrounded by magnificent
banyan trees, under which sat several Budd-
hist priests at their devotions, and some of
those Eastern fanatics who show their zeal
for religion by distorting their bodies into
various eccentric and painful positions.
As we passed we threw them a few small
coins, which were picked up by the boys in
attendance upon them. One of the pagodas
was a very large and fine building, and there
seemed to be a great many priests about it.
The dome and minaret, as in all similar
buildings we saw in Siam, were highly orna-
mented and covered with gilt.
Upon passing the first village, though con-
siderable curiosity was excited, the inhabi-
tants did not pay that attention to us we had
experienced in places farther to the west.
So many Chinese, Anamese, &c., were seen,
that we felt certain we were approaching
Lahaing; and on stopping to make inquiries
were assured that that city might be reached
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 97
by a person on foot in five hours. From this
we concluded it to be fifteen miles distant
rather a long march for the oxen ; but we
determined to attempt to reach it to-day.
The people with whom we communicated
were obliging and civil, and great order ap-
peared to be maintained amongst themselves.
The street of the village was full of the covered
stalls of native and Chinese* merchants; and
there was a great deal of trade going on, con-
.sidering the small size of the place.
With temporary halts, we continued our
march the greater part of the day, passing
through three villages, one of which might
almost be called a town. Many other villages
were seen on our right and left hand, and
the country is highly cultivated. We were
much surprised to find the country so thickly
populated, while twenty miles to the west-
ward not an inhabitant was to be seen.
Five o'clock in the afternoon. In sight of
Lahaing. It looks like a large city, its
* The number of Chinese, Anamese, Savs, Malays, and
other foreigners, settled in this country is almost incredible.
<)S A NARRATIVE
minarets forming a complete forest. We
arrive on the right bank of the Menain, and
halt, the cattle being thoroughly exhausted,
having covered more than twenty miles
during the day. There is a great similarity
in the appearance of the Siamese cities.
Houses on piles, thousands of domes and
minarets, mud, water, floating streets, a
crowd whose noise is deafening, and bustle
confusing, fancifully decorated pagodas, and
splendid palaces of the rajahs imagine this,
and that the surging crowd is dressed in
every form and colour of Eastern costume,
and you have a Siamese city, at least, so
far as it can be conceived without being seen.
At Lahaing, as at Bangkok and other cities
of the Siamese empire, the greatest part of
the town is built on rafts which float in the
river. These rafts are constructed of timber,
and each carry from one to twenty houses,
according to size. I think it probable that
these raft-houses were first introduced into
the country by the Chinese. However that
may be, these people are the principal in-
OF IRA VEL AND SPORT. 99
habitants of them at Lahaing, the natives
preferring the pile dwellings ; and all the
chiefs' houses and pagodas, as well as many-
other buildings, being built on the solid
ground on the left bank of the river, where
they are very liable to be flooded, and,
indeed, are abandoned by most of the inhabi-
tants during the rainy season.
DEC. 9. Throughout this day we were
busy in getting the oxen, horses, and baggage
ferried across the Menam ; a job that was not
only very troublesome, but occupied a long
time, owing to the width and crowded state
of the river. On the opposite shore we took
ground a mile outside the city, and a little
inland from the river. We did not attempt
to procure a native house or lodgings, having
found by experience that we were more com-
fortable in our own tent. We were much
pestered by Chinese and native pedlars, who
tried to force their wares upon ue. Lahaing
is an exceedingly busy and bustling place,,
though we do not think the permanent popu-
lation can exceed, ten or twelve thousand,,
72
ioo A NARRATIVE
of whom quite three-fourths are foreigners
(Chinese, &c.), not born in the country.
The bazaar is large, and almost any descrip-
tion of goods can be procured there, including
many European articles.
DEC. 10. While walking in the city we
saw a caravan, consisting of nearly two
hundred elephants, laden with merchandise,
start on their journey towards the north.
It was an interesting and imposing sight to
witness so many of the huge beasts together,
and all under the most perfect control. We
made many inquiries as to the destination of
this caravan, but could gain no information on
the subject ; neither could we learn what
kind of merchandise it was carrying, though
we found out that a few of the elephants were
laden with ivory. We were pretty confident
that the natives could have given us all the
information we desired about these merchants ;
but they delight in raising mysteries about
their trading transactions, even when there is
not the slightest advantage to be gained by
so doing.
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. ior
We did not see a single horse at Lahaing,.
and ours were objects of great curiosity to the
inhabitants. Neither were many oxen used
as beasts of burden ; but there was a great
number of elephants to be seen in all parts of
the city and its neighbourhood. There are
scarcely any domestic animals kept by the
people, except pigs and dogs and great num-
bers of fowls. The pigs are kept amongst the
houses, and allowed to run about the streets,
and from this and other causes the stench in
some parts of the city is insupportable. The
dogs are also a great nuisance, as every now
and then they take it into their heads to fol-
low foot passengers in packs, snarling and
barking and making one shake for his shins ;
yet, as they are of great use in helping to eat
up the offal and filth of the city, you must
not kill or molest them. But the principal
scavengers are the hawks or kites, which are
as numerous on the housetops as sparrows in
England. As soon as any remnant of food is
thrown out, one or more of these birds will
pounce upon it almost before it touches the
102 A NARRATIVE
ground ; indeed, if you throw a piece of meat
into the air, it is sure to be caught in the
talons of one of the birds before it descends.
They frequently snatch the meat from the
dishes as they are carried along by the ser-
vants, and in Bengal I have seen the soldiers
amusing themselves, with a rather cruel
sport : they spread a blanket on the ground
upon which a bone or bit of meat is placed.
Down darts a kite, and in snatching at the bait
its claws (they always seize their prey with
their talons) catch in the blanket, and as they
will not release their hold very readily, it may
be enveloped in the blanket with ease, and
so captured. Pieces of paper and rag are then
tied to its tail, and it is set at liberty. Its
companions at once set upon it, and after a
short contest tear it to pieces.
Speaking of this, reminds me to say that
the Siamese are great cock-fighters. These
birds are large, with strong legs, and fight
desperately ; but I don't think any betting-
takes place amongst those who thus amuse
themselves ; neither do they usually affix
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 103
artificial spurs to the birds : indeed, I do
ii ot know certainly whether they ever do.
We bought some very ingeniously carved
soap-stone ornaments at Lahaing, but I can-
not say whether they were of native work-
manship or not. The Siamese, from whom
we bought them, declared they were ; but a
native merchant's word is not worth much.
It is quite likely that they were the work
of a Chinaman, but if so, were executed with
more than ordinary skill. One of these orna-
ments represented a ship lying off a rocky
<:oast with trees. The trees and the spars
and ropes of the ship were cut out with
marvellous delicacy. Another piece repre-
sented a grove of cocoa-nut trees, and a third,
a group of native men and women. This
last was curious, but the forms and features
of the figures were not well executed, ana
the artist evidently , excelled in carving in-
animate objects.
In the evening, a travelling conjurer passed
our tent. At sight of us he stopped and
prepared to give an exhibition. While he was
io 4 A NARRATIVE
spreading out a white cloth on the ground
and arranging the contents of a small box
which he carried with him, a crowd of
natives collected around, squatting on their
heels, in anticipation of the amusement.
While the conjurer was still pretending to
search amongst the articles in his box, a small
snake crept from under the cloth which he
had spread upon the ground, and we^
imagining it had come there by accident,
seized a stick, with the intention of destroy-
ing it; but the man took it up and de-
liberately swallowed it head first. That he*
actually swallowed it, I, of course, do not
believe ; but it could be distinctly seen slowly
slipping down his throat, and in whatever
way our eyes were deceived, this man was
marvellously clever. While we were still
staring at him in blank astonishment, and
expecting to see him pull the serpent up
his throat again, a dozen small birds ap-
peared upon the cloth, and after hopping
about, and going through the motions of
picking up food, flew, one by one, into-
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 105,
a bag which, the man held out, and
disappeared. He afterwards squeezed the
bag, and flattened it out to prove that the
birds were not there. These birds were evi-
dently cleverly constructed models, but about
the snake we could not agree, Mr. Grant
being of opinion that it was really a live
snake, and it certainly had the appearance of
being such. It was of the common harmless-
green species, and about eighteen inches in
length.
After going through a few commonplace
tricks, such as every one who has been in
India has seen, the conjurer suddenly caused
his cloth to be covered with beautifully
coloured insects, such as butterflies, beetles,
grasshoppers, &c., which all moved about a&
though possessed of life, though there was,,
at least, a hundred of them. The greatest
mystery about these tricks was how the
creatures got upon the cloth. They were
there in an instant, and although we watched
the man closely and carefully, we could
not say whether they fell from his hand,.
to6 A NARRATIVE
came from above, or crept from under-
neath the cloth. They seemed to appear
spontaneously, and disappeared in the same
way.
After this, the man performed a trick
similar to that known in England as the
Japanese butterfly trick, only he used a
feather instead of a fly. Sending the feather
up to about six feet above his head, he
fixed his eyes intently upon it, and without
apparently exercising any other influence
upon it, caused it to whirl round in a
spiral direction, to dart suddenly up into the
-air, to descend with the rapidity of a stone,
and to perform other strange antics. He
next, without our having observed him put
anything into his mouth, spat out some liquid
which was first of a crimson colour, then green,
blue, lilac, yellow, &c., in succession. Lastly, he
opened his mouth and showed it to be full of
lire. After spitting out jets of fire in every
direction, he spoke some words to the cloth,
and it rolled up of itself Hke a linen blind
that is drawn with cords. Before packing up
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 107
his box, he presented a small wooden cup to
each individual of the crowd, who had ap-
peared to enjoy themselves immensely, giving
vent to loud shouts and peals of laughter at
the conclusion of each trick. We ourselves
were so pleased with what we had seen, that
when the cup was placed before us, we
dropped two rupees into it, at which the
mai^ seemed almost overjoyed. Shouldering
his box and bag, he made an obeisance, and
wended his way towards Lahaing.
We were much tormented during the night
by swarms of musquitos, which came from the
river, and by the intrusion upon our privacy of
certain large lizards. These latter gentlemen
kept constantly bringing their cold bodies in
conjunction with my flesh, as I lay in bed ;
and my decided repugnance to such a proceed-
ing was a source of great amusement to Messrs.
Lacy and Grant, who were not so sensitive
in this matter as myself. When at length
I fell asleep, I had horrifying dreams of con-
jurers who dealt in the black art, and brought
into existence frightful-looking salamanders, as
io8 A NARRATIVE OF TRAVEL AND SPORT.
large as mountains. It was broad daylight
when I awoke, and Grant and Lacy were
already up, and making preparations for the
resumption of our journey : for it had been
decided that we should leave Lahaing to-
day.
CHAPTER VI.
Hot day. River Menam. Parties of natives met. Dense
forest. Pea-fowl shooting. An aquatic village. Marshy
ground. A tiger wounded. Two buffaloes shot. A sport-
ing expedition. Inundated tracts of country. Numerous
traces of game. A herd of large deer. Magnificent
banyan trees. A solitary rhinoceros seen, and shortly
afterwards find others. One of them placed hors de com-
bat. Damage done to crops by rhinoceroses and other
wild beasts. Cowardice displayed by tigers. Several
shot by ourselves and servants. Magnificent display of
fireflies. These insects preyed upon by a small kind of
hawk. Boggy nature of the country. Excessive heat.
A NARRATIVE OF TRAVEL AND SPORT, in
DEC. 11. It was very hot during the morn-
ing, the thermometer registering 97 in the
shade ; we did not, consequently, leave our
ground until four o'clock in the afternoon, when
the heat had somewhat modified. Our course
was now nearly due south, along the left
bank of the Menam, which is a magnificent
river, and one of the finest in Farther India.
It has a course of about eight hundred miles,
and its native name signifies " The Mother of
Waters." It has a breadth, just below La-
haing, of fully three-quarters of a mile; but
the current is slow, and there are some small
islets in mid-stream, upon which houses have
been built. The surface of the water is com-
pletely covered with floating houses, boats,,
barges, and rafts ; and a large trade is carried
on by means of the communication this river
affords with Bangkok, and other places down
the stream.
1 12 A NARRATIVE
After wending our way for a short distance
amongst the huts erected close to the brink
of the river, we found the ground so overgrown
with rank grass and plants, that we were
compelled to choose our road farther inland,
where the trees were tall, with straight trunks,
and the ground between them free from under-
growth. As we advanced the trees grew more
thickly together, and whenever we caught a
glimpse of the river, we perceived that the
other bank also was clothed with a thick
forest-growth : nevertheless, some considerable
patches had been cleared of timber, and turned
into prosperous maize-fields, in the neighbour-
hood of which we passed by one or two small
hamlets. A great many natives were met on
the road, carrying grain to Lahaing in baskets.
DEC. 12. Found the ground difficult to get
over on account of the long grass and tangled
herbage with which it was covered. We were
also delayed through one of the oxen falling
lame. In the space of seven miles we found
two villages, and passed through them both,
passing the remainder of the day and the
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT.
night in one of them ; but nothing occurred of
sufficient interest to be noted. We heard some-
terrible tales about tigers, which we were
assured were very numerous about here.
DEC. 13. Dense forest clothes both banks
of the river down to the water's edge, and
it is full of monkeys, and birds of many
different sorts, particularly parrots and pigeons,.
and pea-fowl. We have several times previ-
ously met with odd individuals of the latter
bird, but here they seem to be abundant ; and
when we had finished our allotted day's journey
and partaken of dinner, we wandered off into-
the forest for a. little sport with them. They
are difficult things to shoot, for being larger
birds they will carry a lot of shot, especially aa
they keep near the tops of the trees, and can
seldom be hit strongly. Yet, notwithstand-
ing these drawbacks, I like pea-fowl shooting
better than any other sport amongst small
game, and it is not without a little excite-
ment. You wander off into the most gloomy
parts of the forest alone ; for if two or three
persons went together it would spoil the chance
8
ii4 A NARRATIVE
of making a good bag, owing to the wariness of
the birds. The ground is covered with luxu-
riant undergrowth, which is tall and thick
enough to almost entirely conceal you from
view, and the light is so subdued that there
is little chance of the birds discovering you,
if you are careful to avoid making too much
noise. Above, however, the light shines
through the branches of the trees, and you
-can see the magnificent birds plainly, their
gorgeous tails elevated, and the rays of the
-sun playing upon them, and showing off in
full advantage all their charming variegations.
The foliage is so thick, that it is some time
before you get a clear aim, but at last you
fire. You look anxiously for the fall of the
bird, but a horrible screech grates on your
ear and away go the pea-fowl. You hope
for better success next time, and working your
way laboriously through the brushwood, come
presently to a tall tree in which are several
nests of enormous size. The birds have heard
your approach, and are gone ; but you keep
quiet, and in a few minutes two or three
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 1 1 5
of them fly heavily back to their nests. The
report of the gun rattles and echoes through
the forest noisily, and the bird chancing to
be hit in a vital spot, drops like a stone, and
crashes into the jungle below. You secure
it quickly, for if any life is left in it, it
will run with great rapidity, and as you cannot
follow it through the thick undergrowth, it
will certainly be lost. The next shot is also
successful, so far as killing the bird goes;
but the branches are so thick above that in
its fall it lodges amongst them, and of course
cannot be got at. It is a long time, before
you get another shot, and then the bird is
only wounded, and flutters away uttering
its piercing cry. You are fortunate if you
secure one in every four you hit. After four
hours' shooting, we had only nine birds to show
amongst the three of us.
o
DEC. 14. We passed a large village to-day,
built almost entirely in the river, partly upon
large piles and partly upon floating rafts. Se-
veral pagodas belonging to this village were built
in the forest a short distance from the river.
82
n6 A NARRATIVE
DEC. 15. The ground near the river was
so marshy, that we consumed six hours in
floundering ten miles. Mr. Grant and one
of the servants went about eight miles to
the east away from the river, but found no
change in the character of the country.
They brought in half a dozen pea-fowl, some
partridges, and a small antelope, which Mr.
Grant had shot. He had also seen a large
tiger, but it had refused to show fight, and
in spite of his efforts got away, though-
wounded.
We saw a village on the opposite bank
of the river, distant about three miles, and
a fleet of twenty-nine trading boats and rafts,
manned by Chinese and natives, passed us
going down the river. They were propelling
themselves with long poles.
In the evening we surprised a herd of be-
tween fifty and sixty buffalo wallowing in
the mud on the river's bank. Two of them fell
before our rifles, and afforded us the great
luxury of a little fresh beef. A short time
after the slaughter of these buffalo, two
OP TRA VEL AND SPORT.
tigers were seen lurking about on the skirts
of the forest, attracted, probably, by the
smell of the blood. Before we could load
our rifles and come up with them, they dis-
appeared ; and although we searched the neigh-
bourhood thoroughly, nothing more was seen
of them. These circumstances led us to sup-
pose that game was plentiful in this tract
of country, and the following day was de-
voted to a hunting expedition.
Our sporting party was ready for action
and fell in at half-past four in the morning.
It consisted of our three selves, arid two of
the men, the rest of our party being lefo
behind with the oxen and baggage, with
orders to remain stationary and keep a sharp
look-out for tigers, which we thought might
be attracted by the cattle, and especially
the horses : for all tigers have a strong
predilection for human and horse-flesh.
Captain Lacy's servant, Akbar Nanee, a
steady man, was left in charge of our camp,
We carried with us a supply of cooked
buffalo-flesh and other provisions, and also
n8 A NARRATIVE
our cloaks and blankets in case we should
find it necessary to pass the night away
from our wandering home.
After marching three or four miles in a
north-easterly direction, we were stopped by
the condition of the ground, which was so-
boggy as to be dangerous. Large tracts of
the forest-ground was under water, which had
doubtless collected during the rainy season-
and not yet evaporated. We changed our
course to south-east, and at last to due
east; but in every direction the ground was
so sodden that we were more than ankle-
deep in mud. Numerous footprints of buffalo,,
deer, and rhinoceroses were seen, and also^
traces of the elephant, tiger, and some unknown
animal. We saw a number of buffalo in the
river, with only just their noses showing above-
water ; but they were in such a position that
we could not get at them. We might, indeed,.
have shot them at long range, but as this
would ; have been a wanton slaughter from-
which we could not reap the least advantage
we refrained from firing.
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT.
The first game we fell in with, at about half-
past eight o'clock, was a species of deer, not
hitherto met with. It was a sort of roebuck,
considerably larger than the antelopes with
which most parts of 'the country abound. A
large herd of these was discovered grazing
upon some slightly elevated ground ; which
was, in consequence, much drier than the
surrounding country. Both bucks and doea
were furnished with horns, but those of the
former were much the finest ; and the bucks*
were also much the largest animals, even
more so than in most of the species of the-
deer tribe. We fired upon them, and ona
of the largest bucks leaped seven or eight
feet into the air as though electrified before it-
fell and died. Two others showed signs of
being badly wounded, and one of them only
ran three or four hundred yards before it
fell; but the other got away. We followed
its blood-marked track until it was lost in a
miry morass where we dared not venture.
After securing the best parts of those which
had fallen into our hands, we resumed our
i2o A NARRATIVE
way eastward, and soon found the ground
more firm ; and some parts that were quite
dry. There were, however, still large shallow
pools, or rather tracks of inundated land,
which were so densely covered with trees and
jungle growth, that we could not form much
idea of their actual extent. All the trees
in this moist region are very large and fine,
and most of them quite two hundred feet in
height. They are full of those ubiquitous
parrots which we seem to find in every creek
and corner of the country ; but there are not
many monkeys here, and those of a small
kind. Pea-fowl are tolerably numerous, but
they are shy, and keep at the tops of the
trees, where small shot will not reach them
with effect.
About ten o'clock we selected a spot for
preparing our dinner and passing the day,
there being no chance of meeting with game
now until evening. A fine banyan tree,
covering at least an acre of ground, answered
our purpose admirably. It is well known that
these trees throw out shoots from above which
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 121
take root when they reach the ground, and
become trees in themselves though still at-
tached to the parent trunk ; thus in time a
.single tree becomes a complete grove, afford-
ing the completest and most delightful shades
from the heat that is to be found in the ex-
cessively hot climates where it grows. This
is one reason, doubtless, why the tree has
come to be held sacred by the Indians. A
single tree has frequently many hundreds of
these trunks, which look very much like
-artificial props placed to support the branches.
The amount of animal life that harbours in
trees of this genus is astonishing, Mr.
Grant, who was making a magnificent
'Collection of insects, assured me that he
had found as many as one hundred and
-sixty-seven different species of beetles on the
banyan tree alone ; and the thousands of
birds that breed amidst its thick foliage,
could not, I am sure, be described in one
volume.
We had wandered a long way from our
<camp : so far, that if we intended to return
122 A NARRATIVE
there to pass the night, and it was very-
desirable that we should do so, it would
be necessary for us to start early in the
afternoon, especially as we intended to
move in a circuitous direction with the
object of examining as wide a tract of
country as possible for *the game of which
we were in search. Accordingly, we left
the shade of our banyan about three in the
afternoon, though the heat was then at it&
height. Our march was a tiresome one,
owing to the detours we were constantly
obliged to make in order to avoid the
numerous bogs and morasses which abounded.
That all sorts of large game was abundant,
was evidenced by the footmarks which were
met with at every pace ; but we saw none
until nearly seven o'clock in the evening, at
which time we concluded ourselves to be dis-
tant from our camp about nine miles. About
this time a solitary rhinoceros was seen, and,
as was the case with other animals of this
kind on a former occasion, it took fright
long before we could get near enough to-
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 123
attack it. Very shortly afterwards, how-
ever, a small herd of five rhinoceroses came
right across our path, and received our fire
from a distance of about ninety yards. None
of the herd fell, but one creature was
wounded in the right fore leg so severely
that the limb was rendered useless ; and, of
course, the animal could not follow its com-
panions, who made off at a gallop. Our
friend, however, made the best use of his-
three remaining legs, and on our approach
to finish him off, made a most determined
effort to charge, lowering his formidable-
looking horns, and advancing on his three
pins quickly enough to make it necessary for
us to display some activity in getting out
of his way. He was shot down without
much difficulty, taking seven bullets into his-
podgy carcass before he went down upon
his knees and yielded up the ghost. It was-
a fine animal, but not so large as some we
afterwards met with. The rhinoceroses, as.
well as elephants and buffalo, in this country
often nearly ruin the villagers by breaking
i2 4 A NARRATIVE
into the rice and maize fields, and beating
-down the grain with the weight of their
huge bodies : for they destroy, at least, twenty
times as much as they eat. The only methods
they usually resort to to destroy them are
pitfalls, but some of the rajahs and chiefs
hunt them for sport, invariably shooting
them, like tigers, from elephant-back.
As we approached our camp we saw several
tigers, probably the same that had been
seen the previous evening. That they were
attracted by the presence of our cattle there
could be little doubt. They were cowardly, and
tried in each case to get away. One fellow
got a shot through the loins that stopped him,
and although he showed his teeth, with a
great deal of horrid growling, he had not
much pluck in him, and was easily killed.
We found upon reaching our tent that Akbar
had also seen tigers lurking about, as on last
evening, and, assisted by Laoo and the other
servants, had succeeded in shooting one and
driving the others away. A country in which
these dangerous beasts are so numerous can
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 125;
scarcely be called agreeable, notwithstanding
the beauty of the scenery.
After dark myriads of fire-flies appeared 5 !
about the trees, and a more grand and aston-
ishing sight I have never witnessed. The-
whole forest seemed to be full of brilliant lamps,,
showing a silver-coloured light. Suddenly
every light would be extinguished, and after an
interval of a few seconds would simultaneously
recommence shining again. It may easily be-
conceived what an extraordinary effect this-
would have. Fancy an immense forest of
gigantic trees, illuminated with innumerable
thousands of bright lights, and these lights-
disappearing and reappearing at regular in-
tervals, perhaps seven or eight times a minute,,
and you have some vague notion of the grand
sight that met our gaze in this part of the
Siamese Empire. The light emitted by these
flies is very different from and much more bril-
liant than that of the glow-worms met with in
Europe, and the insect itself is of considerable
size. They seemed to be stationary while
showing their light regularly together ; but
126 A NARRATIVE
amongst the sedge by the river a few were
dancing about, and the phosphorescence of
these continued to shine with a steady glow,
and was not extinguished at intervals like that
of those on the trees. They continued shining
throughout the night. It is not satisfactorily
known for what purpose these insects emit this
glow. Some think it is to light them in their
search for prey, others that it is to attract
the male insect ; for only the females have
the power of thus shining. I think it must
be to attract their prey to them, for it is
well known how quickly nocturnal insects
(upon which the fire-fly feeds) will cluster
round anything bright or emitting a light.
But it also serves to guide their enemies
toward them, for we discovered that lizards and
several kinds of night-birds prey upon them.
They were particularly sought after by a small
hawk, one of which we shot, and found the
stomach full of the fi.re-flies. The bird was
less in size than a pigeon, and prettily and
curiously marked with different shades, brown,
black, and a little white. Mr. Grant cured
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 127
the skin, with the intention, I believe, of
sending it to some natural history society in
Europe when our travels should be finished.
DEC. 17. It is evident that we shall not be
able to advance much farther along the banks
of the river, on account of the very swampy
state of the ground ; and after a consultation,
we decided to move eastward until we should
nd higher and drier ground. A twelve-mile
march brought us to a more comfortable tract
of land, but there is still a great quantity
of moisture and mud on all sides ; and the
character of the forest is in nowise altered.
I think I have forgotten to say that there
is an absence of creepers and parasitical plants
on the trees in this region ; but the under-
growth is very rank, and there are many large
and coarse, but gaudy-looking, flowers. Some
of the shrubs, also, are covered with clusters of
handsome blossom, having a faint, pleasant smell.
No snakes have been seen amongst these mo-
rasses, nor alligators in the river, though we
have heard it reported that they are found
there. This country is probably too moist
128 A NARRATIVE OF TRA VEL AND SPORT.
for the serpent tribes. In the evening we-
shot a deer and a few pea-fowl.
DEC. 18. A warm, close, and fatiguing
day. We marched about fourteen miles in
all, halting frequently to rest ourselves and
the cattle. A herd of wild elephants was
passed about the middle of the day, enjoying
themselves in a muddy pool. We did not
molest them ; but in the evening a prowling
tiger was dealt with less mercifully, and
Captain Lacy killed it with a single shot,
which penetrated the creature's brain. Plenty
of wild fruit trees grow here, and afford us
a pleasant means of cooling our parched
throats ; for the thermometer stands at 107
in the shade, a degree of heat which I believe
is rare in this country, at least at this season
of the year.
DEC. 19. The face of the country is
covered with an almost unbroken forest, with
trees full two hundred feet in height; but
the ground is dry, scarcely a moist place
being now discernible. We can see no traces
of inhabitants in these parts.
CHAPTER VII.
Pace of the oxen. Range of hills. Character of the coun-
try. Monkeys, and a free fight amongst them. Wild
bees' nests. Ruins of a pagoda. Wells. Storms of hail
and rain. Trees found in this region. Stream and lotus
flowers. Cultivated land. Village or town of Tatsong.
Rajah of Tatsong. Description of the place. The
Rajah's palace. Courteous reception by the Rajah. His
personal appearance. Subjects of our conversation. His
territory. A tiger hunt proposed. In the howdah.
The sport commences. Timidity of the beaters. Cha-
racter of the tiger. A desperate encounter. A native-
saved by his elephant. Result of our day's sport.
A NARRATIVE OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 131
DECEMBER 20. Having passed the night near
a small stream which runs towards the
Menam, and probably empties itself into
that river, we resumed our journey a little
after eight o'clock. The forest was too close
and the undergrowth too thick to admit of
our advancing very rapidly (I use the word
rapidly advisedly, since the oxen, under the
best of circumstances, never cover more than
three miles an hour), but in a couple of
hours or so we came to a ridge of hills
the first we had met with in the country.
Though not more than four or five hundred
feet in height they were steep and covered
with wood ; and we were obliged to dis-
mount and lead our horses. By the time
we had reached the ridge of these hills the
perspiration was running from us freely, and
we were glad to make a halt. This range of
92
132 A NARRATIVE ,
hills appeared to run due north and south, but
we could not trace it with the eye \very far
in either direction. These hills had not been
visible before on account of the density of
the forest, which had continually prevented
our having an extended view in any direc-
tion. From our present elevated stand, how-
ever, we could see several low hills, some of
them isolated, others running in low broken
chains north and south, and none of them
exceeding two or three hundred feet in
height. Indeed, the country (and we could
see a long distance with the aid of our
glasses) was not nearly so hilly as the county
of Surrey in England, though some of the
ranges were very steep, being, in fact, cliffs,
and all densely wooded, and presenting a
rugged and romantic appearance.
In the flat, level country lying to the
north-east we saw a number of slender spiral
minarets peeping up from amidst the trees.
Supposing there was a village at this spot,
we did not prolong our halt unnecessarily;
but as soon as the cattle and ourselves were
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 133
sufficiently rested, proceeded towards these
minarets, which were seven or eight miles
-distant, and only visible through a glass.
So thickly was the country wooded that we
were compelled to have recourse to a com-
pass for guidance, and the undergrowth and
ground creepers were so troublesome that
frequently the oxen could scarcely force a
passage. In this forest there were a great
many monkeys of three different species. We
had not seen any for several days previously.
One kind was very large and like a baboon,
except that it had a tail ; the other species
were both small, one being a variety of the
-spider-monkey, the other the small kind
most commonly met with in every part of
the country hitherto passed through. These
monkeys were quarrelsome amongst them-
selves, and we witnessed several battles be-
tween the two smaller species, in which they
fought desperately, using their teeth and
nails, and making a tremendous chattering.
Where large parties of them were fighting,
the trees presented a curious spectacle, the
i 3 4 A NARRATIVE
branches shaking violently, and showers of
leaves falling, and we picked up several
dead combatants who had been torn nearly
to pieces. The rage of these little creatures
was ludicrous to behold ; they screamed
with excitement, rushed from branch ta
branch so quickly that the eye could
scarcely follow them, and performed the
strangest antics, apparently indicative of their
defiance and hatred of the foe. The con-
test did not cease until one party or the
other had been driven from the tree, the
exclusive possession of which seemed to be
the bone of contention.
The nests of wild bees were very abundant
in this forest, being found in almost every
decayed tree. We obtained plenty of honey,
but not without some trouble and a sting or
two. The bees are very much enraged when
disturbed, and if you do not make a great
smoke, will attack you dangerously about the
face and head. We found the best way of
driving them out of their nests was to insert
a little wet powder, which stupefied them for
OF TRAVEL AND SPORI. 135
the time, and gave us an opportunity of
getting safely away with the plunder.
After more than four hours' hard marching
over distressing ground, we arrived at the site
of our hoped-for village. It turned out, how-
ever, to be merely the ruins of a large pagoda
or idol-temple. It was quite deserted, and
the walls partly broken down. A grove of
banyan trees surrounded it, and many of the
trunks or root-like branches which grow per-
pendicularly downwards from the boughs of
this tree, had forced themselves through the roof
and taken root in the interior of the building,
which was nearly choked up with ferns,
creepers, thorns and grass, which aiforded
harbourage to innumerable lizards and small
snakes. A colony of storks had also built
their nests on the roof and dome of the
decayed building, which was square in shape,
and about a hundred and sixty feet in length
and breadth. The interior had, at one time,
been divided into six compartments ; but the
partitions had been broken down, the idols
removed, and the flooring torn up. The walls
136 A NARRATIVE
had been covered with some sort of plaster,
handsomely painted in various curious and
fantastic devices. The stone pillars which
supported the roof were covered with rude
representations of elephants, rhinoceroses,
boars, serpents and birds. In places precious
stones seemed to have been embedded in the
plaster, and we found a few rubies of inferior
value still sticking in it. We picked them
out and brought them away, but they were
useless except as curiosities. Former visitors
to the place had probably taken away all that
was valuable.
In the courtyard at the back of the temple
was a deep well with a stone parapet round
it. We obtained some deliciously cool water
from it. All that remained of the wall which
had once enclosed this courtyard, was a heap
of rubbish and large rough-hewn stones. The
dome of the pagoda was still in tolerably good
repair, and thirty-seven minarets remained,
though many were broken and lying on the
ground. The age of this temple it was im-
possible to conjecture, for neither of us was
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 137
very deeply versed in archaeology ; bat it was
undoubtedly at least several hundred years
old, for it looked as if it had been abandoned
for centuries. In its neighbourhood we dis-
covered other ruins, apparently of large stone
buildings ; but whether these had been reli-
gious edifices or not I cannot say. In the
forest surrounding them there were other
traces that a village or town had once stood
upon this spot. The night was passed under
the walls of the pagoda. About midnight we
lad a tremendous storm : the rain, mixed
with large hail-stones, came down in torrents,
soaking through our tent and wetting us to
the skin. The lightning was incessant and
exceedingly brilliant, and the peals of thunder
deafening. Lightning and thunder are of
almost nightly occurrence in this, and all
warm countries ; but this is the first rain
that has fallen since the commencement of
our journey.
DEC. 21. We were on the march early
this morning, moving in a south-east course.
Forest covers the country in every direction,
138 A NARRATIVE
and the ground is mostly flat; though here
and there we cross a hill. Abundant tracer
of game are observable, but it either moves
out of the way alarmed at our approach, or
from some other reason keeps out of sight;
for, with the exception of a single rhinoceros,
no animal was seen.
In the forests cocoa-nut trees, fig-trees, wild
plums and peaches, sandal-wood, teak, betel-
nut palms, and scores of, to us, unknown trees
were seen. Besides these, gigantic bamboos,
canes, and other plants of the same nature
grew in impenetrable brakes, many of them
adorned with most beautiful foliage. Here,,
also, we again met with the creepers and
parasitical plants in great profusion.
We broke our march, performing part in the
morning and part in the evening. The whole
distance covered was about sixteen miles, in a
south and south-east direction. Our halting-
place was on the right bank of a stream about
twenty yards wide, the surface of which was
completely covered with lotus flowers, some
pure white in colour, others of a red hue.
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 139,
DEC. 22. Notwithstanding the small width
of the brook, we found there were seven or
eight feet of water in it in most places ;,
and much time was lost before we could find
a fordable place. After keeping in a south
slightly west direction (we being anxious to
make the banks of the Menam again) for tea
miles, we sighted a large village lying three
miles west of us. Towards this village we
wended our way, and arrived there in some-
thing less than an hour. The last mile of our
journey was through rice-fields the only grain
we found grown here ; but there were large
gardens in and immediately round the place,
where melons, pumpkins, vegetables and fruits
of all kinds were cultivated in vast quan-
tities.
The reception we met with here was in
marked contrast to that accorded us in most
places we had passed through. The inhabitants.
did not betray the least curiosity about us
or our business, and though a small crowd
of children assembled when we began to erect
our tent, near the centre of the village,
A NARRATIVE
scarcely an adult was seen. When we walked
through the village the streets of which were
arranged like the rays of a star, meeting in
the middle the women peeped at us through
the doorways, and a pack of unmannerly dogs
yelped at our heels ; but otherwise we did
not attract any attention. We soon learned,
however, that our presence was not altogether
unnoticed, even in high quarters; for about
five o'clock in the afternoon a messenger came
to us from the Rajah or chief magistrate of
Tatsong, as the village was called, to make
inquiries as to who we were and what we
wanted. W^e replied that we were English-
men from India, and were travelling through
the country for pleasure and to shoot the wild
animals. In about an hour the messengers
returned with an intimation that the Rajah*
would like to see us, and of course we went
-at once, taking Angbang, our interpreter, with
us.
* I call him Eajah (that is a king) because, as will he
seen presently, he had almost independent power in this
district, and I could not distinctly ascertain his native title,
lie appeared to he known by many various titles.
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 141-
The houses of the village or rather town
(for it is a place of considerable size) of Tatsong
are large and substantially built, though con-
structed almost entirely of timber. They are
arranged in few straggling streets which all
shoot out from a large open space in the centre
of the town. It was in this open space that
we had pitched our tent, and it was also
occupied by a few huts, and shaded by an
enormous banyan tree and some palms. Many
of the houses were built under the shade of
banyans, which had shot their tributary trunks
down into the middle of the road; so that
one of the streets, a quarter of a mile in
length, was completely canopied over with an
arch of foliage, which looked, as if supported
by rough wooden props, presenting a most
singular sight, which I am quite at a loss to
describe. The other streets had rows of fig-
trees and palms planted in them, but not
arranged in regular order ; as some were grow-
ing close into the houses, and others in the
middle of the roadway. Altogether this is
the prettiest and most picturesque town I have
142 A NARRATIVE
seen in any eastern country. There are no
less than seventeen pagodas in it or its imme-
diate neighbourhood, though all of small size,
and not so handsome as some we have seen in
other districts. There are a great many wells
-of water in the roads, to which the inhabitants
come for water for domestic use. The palace
of the Rajah is situated at the north end of the
town, and quite outside of it. It is a large
building of oblong shape, and built upon a
raised terrace of masonry. Its appearance is
rather heavy and prison- like, though it is
highly ornamented with sculptures in relievo
over the whole facade, representing the animals
and birds found in the country ; as well as
human figures, t flowers, ornamental devices,
&c. The main entrance is wide and lofty, and
accessible by a flight of stone steps, eighty-nine
in number. On either side of the gateway is
a gigantic carved figure, and inside two others,
facing in an opposite direction to the first.
The courtyard is about two hundred yards in
length by eighty broad, and the palace proper
is on the west side of it.
OF TJRA VEL AND SPORT. 143
The most remarkable feature in the archi-
tecture of the palace is the windows, some
of which project forward from the wall with
balconies in front, and penthouse to protect
them from the sun and weather, and others
raised inwards. All of them are closed with
lattice-work and painted blinds ; but they have
no substitute for glass, or contrivances, beside
those mentioned, for keeping oat the wind
and rain. The roof is flat, and used as a pro-
menade. The whole upper part of the building
is constructed of brick, but there is much
granite-like stone about the foundation; and
the images, &c., are carved out of stone of this
kind. In the interior, those rooms into which
we had the privilege of entering were large
and lofty, the ceilings and walls being covered
with painted plaster. Much labour must have
been expended upon the devices, which mostly
represented flowers, birds, men and trees. In
one apartment there was a rude attempt at a
landscape, but it was scarcely intelligible.
Upon arriving at the place, we were taken
by a score of servants into the Rajah's presence.
144 A NARRATIVE
His Highness sat upon the floor, which was
covered with a showy carpet of good texture,
and apparently of Persian manufacture. The
small crowd of attendants which had shown
us in, remained outside the doorway ; and there
were only five head attendants, or chiefs,
standing round the Rajah, who courteously
invited us to sit, and we squatted cross-legged
on the floor, with our interpreter standing
between us.
The Rajah was a small man, with pleasant
features, and a good-humoured smile habit-
ually playing about his mouth. He spoke
with vivacity, and, from the nature of the
questions he put to us and his whole manner
and appearance, I should say he was a man
of great intellectual power. His age was
about forty years. He wore a rather gor-
geous embroidered dress, and was adorned
with great quantities of jewellery, his fingers
being covered with rings, and his breast
with a kind of diamond breastplate of im-
mense value. The apartment in which he
was sitting was quite destitute of furniture,
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 145
the only articles in it being carpets, mats,
fans, pipes, and a few ornamental trifles.
Both the Rajah and his attendants were
armed with jewelled swords and daggers,
.and the Rajah had an elegant pair of pistols
in his girdle.
Our interview lasted nearly two hours,
and our conversation maintained, of course,
through the interpreter extended over a great
variety of subjects ; for the Rajah wanted to
know all about ourselves and our country,
how long we had been in Siam, where we
were going, what we thought of his people,
how the English governed in India and in
England, and hundreds of other questions of
a similar nature. He had been to Bangkok
several times, he said, and seen English and
other Europeans there. On one occasion he
had seen a large war- ship there, and de-
clared it was one of the most wonderful sights
he had seen. He had heard a great deal
about the English, and knew they were a
mighty people, and was very pleased to see
some of them in his country. He thought
10
146 A NARRATIVE
we were the only Europeans who ever
passed through Tatsong, and was sure
none had been there in his life-time.
"We learned now and on subsequent occa-
sions, that the Rajah had absolute authority
in his own district, but paid a tribute to the
King of Siam. The exact dimensions of the
district he governed we could not determine.
The Rajah told us, however, that it contained
twenty-three villages, of which Tatsong is the
principal, and gives its name to the entire
territory. The population do not cultivate
any produce save rice ; but they trade to
Bangkok with elephant's tusks, betel-nuts^
honey, pepper, wax, and palm-oil.
The Rajah's name is Shangar Dee, as we
learnt from one of his attendants. He was
much amused with the accounts of hunting
adventures which we related at his desire,,
assured us he was himself a sportsman, and!
invited us to join him in a tiger hunt. He
also graciously inquired where we were lodg-
ing, and said we might occupy a portion of
his palace if we would like to do so ; but
Of TRAVEL AND SPORT. 147
this kind offer we declined, preferring to re-
main in our own tent where we should feel
we had more liberty of action. When we
took our leave, his Highness got upon his
legs and shook hands with each one of us
very cordially, and reminded us that it
would be necessary to start early on our
hunting expedition the forthcoming day. We
assured him we should be ready by the ap-
pointed hour, and left the palace, accom-
panied by several of the Rajah's attendants,
who, by command of their master, conducted
us back to our tent.
DEC. 23. Between five and six o'clock this
morning, some twenty of the Rajah's ser-
vants came to escort us to the palace. Ar-
riving there we found the Rajah ready, with
four elephants, it being intended that we=
should hunt from elephant-back. Captain
Lacy mounted into the Rajah's howdah,
myself and Mr. Grant into those of
two of the attending chiefs ; the fourth,
howdah was occupied exclusively by native
chiefs or heads of the Rajah's household.
102
148 A NARRATIVE
My companions, five in number, were all
of them officers of the Rajah ; and one was
related to him. Having no interpreter, I
could not hold any conversation with them,
and I felt sorry myself and two fellow-
travellers had not been placed in the same
howdah, which would have materially in-
creased the enjoyment of the day.
The motion of riding on elephant-back is
steady and pleasant, and it is a far better
method of travelling than in palanquins or
on horse-back. The elephants move quickly,
and are as sure-footed as a mule. I never
heard of one making a false step ; and yet
they will descend hills where a horse would
be almost sure to stumble. They overcome all
obstacles that lie in the road, crushing through
jungle that would be quite impenetrable to
man or horse, and swimming across the
broadest rivers with perfect ease, and safety
to the occupants of the howdah.
Two or three hundred of the male part
of the population of Tatsong accompanied the
elephants on foot to act as beaters. They
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 149
were armed with long sticks and spears,
and acted under the direction of leaders,
who placed them in position when we arrived
on the hunting-ground. They formed them-
selves into a crescent or half-moon, and
closed in gradually on the patches of jungle,
driving out all the game in our direction.
Deer and antelope were the only animals
met with for come hours, and of these more
than a score were shot from the four howdahs,
the Rajah bringing down seven with his own
hand. In drawing some of the wildest tracts,
of jungle, two leopards and a tiger were
started, and speedily shot down. One of the
former was killed by Captain Lacy, who
placed it hors de combat at the first shot.
Shortly afterwards, another tiger was routed
out of a bamboo brake; but this, though
wounded by several shots, rushed at the
beaters, who gave way, and it escaped.
The game in this tract had now been
thoroughly alarmed, and we were obliged to
change our ground, proceeding to a patch of
jungle about five miles distant, which must
A NARRATIVE
have covered five or six hundred acres. This
patch was completely surrounded by the
beaters, placed at intervals, like skirmishers
but farther apart, who closed in towards the
point where the elephants were stationed.
Some small beasts of prey soon made their
appearance, and great numbers of snakes, of
from thirteen or fourteen inches in length to
four or five feet, which were destroyed by the
servants on foot ; but no deer were here
started, a very good reason for suspecting
the place was much frequented by leopards
and tigers, which proved to be the case, for
three large tigers made their appearance simul-
taneously. One was riddled with bullets, but
the other two escaped, the beaters being very
timid. If they had raised a loud shout,
and rushed upon the beasts in a body, they
would probably have frightened them into
running past the elephants, and we should
have had an opportunity of peppering them.
The beaters had now contracted their line
into a very narrow semi-circle, and but a small
portion of the jungle remained unsearched ;
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 151
but there were indications, such as the shaking
of the grass and bushes, that some large beast
was here concealed, and the cries of the men
-apprised us that it was a tiger. The beast
was very unwilling, however, to leave the
cover, and the beaters disregarded all our
shouts and signs to them to close in. I was
of opinion that the elephants should be ad-
vanced upon the tiger, and not being able
to make my driver understand what I wanted,
I sang out to Captain Lacy (with whom was
Angbang, the interpreter), but he was afraid
this would induce the beast to rush at the
beaters, who would be sure to give way, and
let it escape. He, however, directed one of
the elephants to move round to the rear, and
endeavour to induce it to come forward. This
movement was successful, and the tiger made a
sudden rush and sprung up at the Rajah's how-
<lah, to which it clung with its claws, and would
undoubtedly have speedily seized one of the
occupants had they not saluted it with a steady
volley, which sent it down under the elephant's
atomach.
152 A NARRATIVE
Judging from my own experience, I believe
the tiger is in general a somewhat cowardly
animal. When attacked by a hunter, it will, if
possible, try to escape. Tigers that have once
preyed upon man, I am firmly convinced, retain
their liking for human flesh, and become con-
firmed man-eaters. These man-eaters fre-
quently display the most audacious courage,
even entering large and populous villages in
search of a victim ; but the only other cases-
in which I have known tigers show a bold front
is when they are mortally wounded. Then,
they are perfect devils, whose sole object seems
to be to have as dear a revenge as possible.
Their eyes glare, and appear to be starting-
from their head ; their lips are drawn up,
showing their terrible fangs to perfection ; and
their hoarse roar of defiance is something
appalling. At the sound of it a native will
bolt up the nearest tree like a mad monkey,
and his black features will become the colour
of muddy cream.
The scene on the present occasion, but for
the danger, would have been ludicrous. When
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 153
the tiger began to roar, and its determination
to fight became evident, the beaters and foot
attendants disappeared with magical rapidity.
Some few climbed into the thorn bushes :
where the others got to I could not say
for the life of me.
For a single second the tiger seemed stunned
by the smart fire with which he had been re-
ceived ; but the moment he regained his feet, he
came full tilt at rny elephant. His white
breast was crimson with blood, and blood was
dropping from his mouth. He was desperately
wounded, but had still sufficient life and
strength to make himself a formidable adver-
sary. Leaning over the side of my howdah >
I fired all four barrels of my rifle, but without
effect ; and the creature springing up with
frightful fury, fixed itself on the neck of the
elephant, and attacked the driver. The poor
wretch yelled in his fright, and fell to the
ground, followed by the enraged brute, who
would soon have made short work of him had
not the sagacious elephant interfered. Seizing
the monster round the neck with its trunk
154 A NARRATIVE
it swung it up above my head and brought
it to the earth with a tremendous crash. It did
not move again ; but the elephant, trumpeting
angrily, dashed upon it with fury, impaled
it with its tusks, threw it many times into
the air, and trampled it under foot. I was
afraid the enraged creature would shake the
howdah from its back, for I had no control
of it ; but one of the native chiefs who was
\vith me got upon its neck, and succeeded in
pacifying it.
The tiger's claws had caught the driver's thigh,
-and ploughed up the flesh from the hip to the
knee. He was not, however, dangerously hurt.
The elephant's neck was also slightly torn.
In the mangled carcass of the tiger we
found eleven bullet-holes, a sufficient proof of
the tenacity of life in the cat tribe. This was
the best day's sport in which I have taken a
part. Our bag consisted of three tigers, two
leopards, twenty-seven deer ajict antelopes,
one hysena and two lynxes ; besides several
animals which were wounded and got away,
doubtless to die.
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 155
Leaving the beaters and servants, of whom
only about a dozen were visible, to collect
themselves and return at their leisure, we rode
back to Tatsong, which we reached about
seven o'clock in the evening.
CHAPTER VIII.
Dinner at the Kaj all's palace. His Highness elated. Ele-
phant stables. White elephant. Trade of the country.
Productions. Elephant hunting. Christmas Day.
An elephant hunt. Its failure. A second expedition.
Exciting adventure with a large male elephant. Terror of
the herd. Cruelty of the Rajah. Affecting tenderness
of an elephant dam for its calf. Long march of the
beaters and servants. A day's rest. The Eajah offended.
Leave Tatsong. Three villages seen. People at work.
Four large brooks. Snipe. Very large bag made.
A NARRATIVE OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 159
DEC. 24. We dined at the palace last night
after our return from the hunting expedition.
Our own servants cooked for us and attended
us during dinner, which was ]aid out on mats
on the floor in a large hall on the second story
of the palace. The Eajah ate his meal alone
in an adjoining compartment, and the native
attendants and officers also dined apart. They
appeared to eat no flesh, and their food con-
sisted of fruits, vegetables and boiled rice,
I know, however, that the natives of this-
part do partake of flesh occasionally ; though
rice and vegetables form the chief part of
their diet.
Large quantities of palm toddy were con-
sumed, and I am sorry to say that before we
took our leave, his Highness was in a rnerry
condition. He was highly delighted with the
day's sport, and spoke of making a second
160 A NARRATIVE
expedition. He informed us that the de-
struction of life in his territory by tigers was
very great, and they seldom destroyed many
either by poison, pitfalls, or hunting them.
Some years ago, four persons were seized by
tigers in one day in the neighbourhood of
Tat song.
Taking advantage of an invitation given
to us by the Rajah last evening, we went this
afternoon to look over his elephant stables.
The Rajah himself conducted us, and was
evidently greatly pleased with the praise we
bestowed upon his beasts. He possessed sixty-
three ordinary elephants of various sizes, and
two white ones, which he took care to inform
us were sacred, and not to be touched by the
hands of any save the priests who attended to
them. Their colour was not white, but a kind
of muddy drab ; and they were much smaller
than the common elephants. Round each
of their fore legs they had a massive ring of
gold set with precious stones, and huge gold
ear-rings were also attached to their ears.
They were not chained up, and had the run
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 161
-of the large shed where they were confined.
One priest was constantly in attendance upon
them ; and twice a day they were taken out
for exercise and to bathe.
The Rajah had no horses, and assured us
that he should not care to use them if he
had ; as he preferred riding upon elephant-
back, and thought it the safest method of
travelling. He admired our horses, however,
.and said they were very graceful-looking
animals.
In reply to our questions about the trade
carried on by his subjects with the inhabitants
of other parts of the country, the Rajah
.said that it was considerable, and consisted
principally of ivory, wax, honey, pepper, betel-
nuts, and gold dust ; but they also took linen
goods to Bangkok, together with bamboo poles,
canes, cocoa-nuts, sandal- wood, lead and copper
in small quantities, game and birds' feathers
(particularly those of a species of jay and the
pea-fowl), for exportation to China, &c., palm-
oil, yams, figs, gutta-percha, and a few dia-
monds and rubies.
11
1 62 A NARRATIVE
The pepper, figs, &c., were grown wild and
not cultivated ; and the gold dust was found
in the beds of the streams emptying them-
selves into the Menam. I was informed that
the diamonds and rubies were found in some
low hill ranges between twenty and thirty
miles (as nearly as I could judge by what the
Rajah said) from Tatsong, and that the copper
and lead was procured from quarries in the
same neighbourhood ; but no regular mines-
were worked. I also learned from the Rajah,,
through our interpreter, that a large number
of the inhabitants of Tatsong are professional
elephant hunters, and they kill the animal in
a great variety of ways. Sometimes they dig
pitfalls, but this method is not much esteemed,
as without great cunning is exercised in covering
the holes, the sagacity of the elephant warns-
him of the danger. Occasionally a large party
of natives surround an elephant and spear
him to death; but the favourite method of
killing them is by shooting them with fire-
arms. The guns and muskets used are mostly
of European make ; but they have also pieces
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 163
manufactured in Burmah and in China. These
huntsmen also capture the wild elephants,,
and break them in for general use. They
are captured in the same manner as that hi
vogue in India.
DEC. 25. Christmas Day, but no plum-
pudding and delicious underdone roast beef.
However, we fared very well off a nice haunch
of venison, and specially indulged in a bottle of
sherry in honour of the occasion. In the even-
ing the Rajah paid us a visit, and we shot
pigeons and pea-fowl in the forest together.
We bagged, between the four guns, fifty-two
pigeons, eighteen pea-fowl, a stork, and six
pheasants. The Rajah is a good shot, but the
birds are wild, and, owing to their keeping in the
tops of the tallest trees, difficult to shoot. We
have arranged for an elephant hunt to-morrow.
DEC. 26. The Rajah overslept himself, and
when we presented ourselves at the palace about
half- past four a.m., we were delayed an hour
before his Highness was ready.
A large party of the native elephant hunters,
were in attendance, to conduct us to the best
112
164 A NARRATIVE
ground and find the game. We were mounted
on our horses, intending to ride to the scene
of action ; but the Rajah, who was on elephant-
back, insisted that we should come into his
howdah, and we complied, sending our horses
back to camp.
For three hours we were passing through
an unbroken but not very dense forest before
a herd of elephants was discovered. We im-
mediately left the howdah, and proceeded with
the hunters to cautiously approach them.
These men displayed great timidity, and in-
stead of going close up to the elephants before
firing, they commenced to fire when quite a
hundred yards off. This was almost useless,
as the distance was too great for the bullets
to take much effect, and the animals were
alarmed before we could get near enough to
have an effective shot. Nevertheless, three
elephants fell, the huntsmen, sixty or seventy
in number, having expended seven or eight
rounds of ammunition per man to effect this
slaughter, which ought not to have cost more
than a score of well-directed shots.
OF 2 RAVEL AND SPORT. 165
The Hajcih became very artery with the hunter*
for firing in this manner, as it deprived himself
and us of a fair shot, and ordered that they
should not fire at all when the next herd
should be met with ; but no more elephants
could be found, and we returned disappointed
to Tatsong. It was arranged, however, that the
following day we should again try our luck.
DEC. 27. We started this morning before
daybreak, taking with us only nine of the
native hunters, to serve as guides to finding
the game. We had small success during the
early part of the day, the only animal seen,
and shot being an antelope. The ground
traversed was near that shot over yesterday,
which in our opinion was not a very wise
arrangement ; but of course we did not like
to appear dissatisfied, and therefore did not
give expression to our opinion.
After a long, wearisome ramble, interrupted
by several halts for refreshment, we turned
towards home about four o'clock in the after-
noon, having been out twelve hours. Between
five and six o'clock, we came suddenly upon
1 66 A NARRATIVE
a small herd of fifteen elephants. The large
male, their leader, was an exceedingly fine
animal, standing at least ten or eleven feet
high. Several others were scarcely inferior to
him in size : indeed, the whole herd was of
animals of above the average bulk. Three
of them were calves one quite a little thing,
not more than a few months old. When we
first discovered them it was sucking, being
so small that it could hardly reach the
dam's udder.
We came upon them so unexpectedly, that
before we could get our rifles ready the oppor-
tunity for a good shot was lost. Our own
elephant halted the instant he saw his wild
companions, and they, after staring at him
suspiciously for a moment or two, began to
move away, though slowly, as if they were
not quite satisfied whether there was danger
in the wind or not. By the time our driver
had commanded the sagacious brute to kneel
down, and we had descended from the howdah,
the herd was three hundred yards off; but
they had stopped, and ^vere bending down the
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 167
boughs of the trees with their trunks, so that
the young ones could get at the tender shoots
and leaves.
Commanding the servants to keep back, our-
selves and the Hajah advanced slowly towards
them, always keeping a tree or thick busk
in front of us to hide our approach. But not-
withstanding all our caution they seemed to
be aware of our manoeuvring, and when we
got to within a hundred yards of them com-
menced to move away again. At a little
distance they halted once more, and remained
quietly feeding upon the leaves of the trees
until we again got to within about a hundred
yards of them, when they moved off a little
faster than before. This tantalising work con-
tinued for nearly half an hour, during which
time we could never get nearer than from a
hundred to a hundred and fifty yards, which,
powerful as our breech-loading rifles were, was
too great a distance for an effective fire.
At length we thought of trying to sur-
round them, and approach from different
sides, the understanding being that none of
1 68 A NARRATIVE
us should fire until \ve were apprised of
the position of our companious. This was
to prevent accidents from random shots. Our
interpreter having been left with the other
servants, we could not make the Rajah under-
stand this arrangement, and so I took him*
with me.
Our plan was successful. The elephants
first discovered the advance of Captain Lacy
in front of them, and immediately commenced
to move right down upon the spot where
myself and the Rajah were crouching behind
a large tree trunk. The first shot came from
Mr. Grant on the right, and we promptly
followed up his attack with three shots di-
rected against the leading male. This drove
the whole herd towards Captain Lacy, who
received them with five shots, fired in rapid
succession. The terrified animals, finding;
themselves surrounded on all sides, crowded
together right in front of us, screaming and
trumpeting in a pitiful manner, with their
trunks elevated straight in the air.
Our breech-loading rifles enabled us to fires
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 169.
very rapidly ; and in a few minutes the big
male and two others were on the ground.
The herd, now terrified to the verge of mad-
ness, made a sudden rush and broke away ;
but as they passed the Rajah cruelly fired
at the little calf and brought it down. I
shall never forget the scene that followed.
The dam rushed about franticly, making the
ground tremble with her great weight ; and
in her wild excitement tearing down great
branches from the trees. Her screaming was
dreadful, and the caresses she bestowed upon
the dying calf (for it was not killed outright)
heart-rending. Suddenly she seemed to re-
member from whence the fatal shot had
proceeded, and made a desperate charge to-
wards us. It was well for the Rajah and
myself that the firing of Mr. Grant and
Captain Lacy diverted her attention. One
bullet struck her tusk and broke it off about
six inches from the root.
I was almost as much horrified as if I had
witnessed the murder of a human being; and
had not our lives been in actual danger I
170 A NARRATIVE
would not have lifted my rifle against her.
Three or four more shots brought her to
the earth ; but even in her death agony
she stretched her trunk towards the body of
her now dead calf. From this time I could
not help holding the Rajah in contempt in
my own mind; for even the excitement of the
moment can not be pleaded in excuse for
the wanton slaughter of an animal so young
that it was quite useless when killed.
This incident led me to think deeply upon
the slaughter of wild animals, and of ele-
phants in particular. The elephant is such
an intelligent and gentle beast, and so useful
to man, that its destruction, even for the
sake of its ivory tusks, can scarcely be
justified. It is true it does much damage
to the crops of the natives ; but it is,
otherwise, in its wild state a perfectly harm-
less creature, never attacking man until
injured, and but very seldom then. How-
ever illogical my reasoning may have been,
it led me to determine that I would not
again take part in an elephant hunt.
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 171
It was eight o'clock in the evening before
we reached Tatsong. We were quite tired
-out, and during the day the servants, who
accompanied us on foot, must have tramped
forty miles at the least ; but they are a
hardy and enduring race of men. I have for-
gotten to say that besides the tusks of the
elephants they have brought away a large
quantity of the flesh for eating, especially
that of the calf. The parts they appear to
prefer are the feet, trunks, and tongues ;
but many broad steaks are also cut from
the back.
DEC. 28. A day devoted entirely to
rest. In the evening we shot pea-fowl and
pheasants, and also met with the wild jungle
fowl. Areca trees are very abundant in the
forest. The Rajah did not make his appear-
ance to-day.
DEC. 29. As it is our intention to leave
Tatsong to-morrow, we went this evening to
bid the Hajah farewell. We had seen nothing
of him since the elephant hunt; and whether
or no I had made my disgust at his conduct
172 A NARRATIVE
on that occasion too manifest, or whether he
had, with the capriciousness of an Eastern
ruler, taken offence at something else, it is
impossible to say ; but he refused to see us.
A circumstance that caused us a great deal
of uneasiness at the time, and not a little-
surprise, as he had seemed to all of us a
man of kind and amiable disposition.
It occurred to us that if his Highness-
should take it into his head to throw any
obstacle in the way of the further prolonga-
tion of our journey, we should be in an
awkward pickle, as we could not dare ad-
vance in open defiance of him. This thought
hastened our departure, and at three o'clock
the next morning we left Tatsong, making a
wide circle round the village to avoid dis-
turbing the inhabitants. By eight o'clock
we calculated we had advanced twelve miles,,
and we halted for a couple of hours' rest.
Resuming our journey, we did not get along
quite so well, on account of the increased
density of the forest, and the luxuriant under-
growth ; but we extended our day's march to-
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 173
about twenty miles before we lay to for the
night. Our custom now was to keep pace
with the oxen and attendants, and not per-
mit them to push forward or lag behind.
We found this the most expedient and safest
.plan ; as, though the servants were trust-
worthy men, and careful, they were scarcely
fit to encounter any sudden emergency that
might occur, such as an attack from ill-
disposed natives, or a chance dispute : for
these blacks are, as a rule, quarrelsome with
men of their own colour, but of a different
nationality. During our stay at Tatsong several
trifling disputes arose between our men and
the inhabitants, which were only prevented
from breaking out into a serious disturbance
by our removing our camp out of the
town, and forbidding the servants to enter
the place.
DEC. 31. We saw three villages in the
course of the day, but did not pass through
any of them, though we met many of the
people on the roads and at work in the
forest, the latter picking fruit arid collecting
174 A NARRATIVE
the wild honey which is very abundant..
None of them evinced much astonishment at
the sight of our cavalcade ; but some with
whom we communicated were very inquisitive,
demanding where we were going, what we
wanted there, &c. With the exception of a
few insignificant patches of rice, there was no
grain, or vegetables of any kind, under culti-
vation near these villages ; neither were any
domestic animals seen, not even dogs. There
were no pagodas in or near these hamlets.
We were now shaping our course diagonally
in the direction of the Menam, the banks
of which we were anxious to reach again
if the ground was practicable. During the
day's march of nine miles we crossed four
large brooks, one with eight feet of water
in its bed, except at the fordable spots.
About these brooks we shot a great number
of snipe, of a kind twice the size of those
found in England. In the trees about here,
too, there were immense numbers of storks'
nests ; and though we could find no four-
footed game, I have never seen any country
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 175;
better supplied with birds of all kinds. After
the tent was pitched we made the following
handsome little bag : viz., eighty-nine snipe,
three pea-fowl, three storks (many more of
these birds could have been easily obtained),
fifteen partridges, and one bird, apparently of
the starling tribe, but which had not been
met with previously.
CHAPTER IX.
IRegain banks of the Menam. Rate of progress. Gigantic
forests. Height of the trees. Appearance of the river.
Flamingoes. Frilled lizards. Marshy ground. Alli-
gators and tigers. Disturbed by the noise of wild beasts.
Fight between a bull-buffalo and a rhinoceros. Ex-
traordinary display of fire-flies. Tigers and buffalo.
Cross a tributary of the Menam. Flying squirrels.
Dangerous marshy ground. Loss of an ox, and narrow
escape of' Mr. Grant. Miserable plight. Another ox
lost. Desperate position. Apathy of our servants.
'Strange appearance of the trees. Illness of Mr. Grant.
He and a servant attacked by fever. Weed of which
cattle are fond. Continued illness of Mr. Grant.
A NARRATIVE OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 179
JANUARY 1, 1870. The first day of the new-
year and consequently a noteworthy one, even
in the deep solitude of a Siam forest. We
were marching, with intervals to rest the oxen,
all day, being anxious to reach the Menarn as
soon as possible. We arrived on its banks
about half-past five o'clock in the afternoon,
having made seventeen miles a good long
stretch considering we had marched twenty
miles the day before yesterday. These dis-
tances would not be great for a man to per-
form ; but, as I have frequently remarked
before, the oxen plod along at a ^ very slow
pace. They are consequently a long time on
the road, and an average of six hours' journey-
ing a day (which means from twelve to six-
teen miles, according to the character of the
country) is all that can be expected of
them.
i8o A NARRATIVE
I give no particular description of the
country from the simple fact that two words
will give the reader nearly all the information
that he can possibly have. Those two words
are gigantic forest. No country in the world
can equal this country for forests ; and no
country save New Guinea has more gigantic
trees. Hence, though the appearance of the
landscape is grand as well as beautiful, there
must of necessity be a certain sameness in a
written description of it ; because there is so
little to describe but forest scenery. Some of
the trees here were, I am sure, two hundred and
fifty feet in height ; in fact the monkeys who
inhabit the topmost branches look quite
dwarfed, and the parrots and other birds
appear like mere specks ; and they are far out
of reach of shot. Even with wire cartridge
we could not hit them strongly enough to ki]l
them, except in a few odd instances.
The river here presents a magnificent body
of water to view. It is about three quarters
of a mile wide, and the opposite bank appears
as thickly clothed with forest as that on which
OF IRA YEL AWD SPORT. 181
we stand. The trees overhang the water, for
a distance of fifty or sixty yards, and there
are large beds of tall reeds growing in the
shallow water, which are a favourite resort of
numbers of splendid rose-coloured flamingoes.
In a swampy uiarsh we found some curious
nests of this bird. They were constructed of
mud in the shape of a pyramid about three
feet high, but hollowed out at the top to
receive the eggs. The bird sits on its nest
with its legs hanging down, something like
those of a man on horseback. The only nest
that we could get close to contained four
muddy- white eggs, about the size of those of
the swan, or a little smaller.
This marsh was also remarkable for the
myriads of frilled lizards which harboured in
it. These little reptiles were three or four
inches in length, and had round the neck a
membrane or frill like a bat's wing, which
completely hid their heads from view. When,
however, they were not disturbed, the frill
lay flat over the back ; giving them the
appearance of having a very loose skin.
i8 2 A NARRATIVE
JAN. 2. Thick forest and tracts of marshy
land compelled us to advance in a zig-zag,
and we were frequently out of sight of the
river, which varied in breadth from about
twelve to fourteen hundred yards. Several
times when near its bank we saw an odd alli-
gator or two ; but these reptiles are riot
numerous in any part of the country we have
visited. Tigers, however, are here as numerous
as in any district we have passed through.
No fewer than five were seen in the course
of the day and evening. One gentleman re-
ceived a bullet behind his shoulder, which
put an end to his troubles and pleasures. The
others beat a retreat the instant they were
disturbed ; one of them being badly hurt at
long range, and probably only got away to die.
In the mud near the water we saw innumer-
able prints of buffalo hoofs, and places where
these animals had been wallowing in the mud.
There were also traces of deer, seemingly of
several different species.
, After our tent was pitched, we shot, as
usual, in the forest round about. To-night we
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT.
pushed along the edge of the water, and
knocked over some beautiful little ducks.
They were white and grey in colour, but
splendidly variegated about the head, neck,
wings and tail with red, blue, and green.
Other birds seen were flamingoes, storks,
herons, ibises, snipes, bitterns, pigeons, quails,
hawks, crows, parrots, and finches in great
variety.
During the night we were greatly disturbed
by the wild animals, which carne down to the
river to drink and bathe. The moon was about
full, and the light it gave so brilliant that we
could distinctly see elephants, rhinoceroses,
buffalo,"* and other animals sporting in the
water. There were many hundreds of the
various species, and it was rather dangerous
work to approach so large a number ; but we
wenc, and were rewarded with a fine buffalo
and a couple of small antelopes. Each species
* These buffalo, which are only found in the wildest
parts of the country, appear to be the descendants of some
which have escaped from captivity, and gradually become
wild.
1 84 A NARRATIVE
kept to itself in the water, but they were very
close together, and we witnessed a fight be-
tween a bull buffalo and a rhinoceros, in which,
however, neither seemed to be much hurt.
The trees here are covered with the magnifi-
cent fire-flies described previously. The sight
is grand in the extreme, and has almost a
supernatural appearance. It is difficult to-
conceive that the brilliant sparks, appearing
and disappearing with such uniform regularity,
proceed from insects ; and any one seeing thi&
extraordinary display for the first time, and not
being aware of the cause of it, would certainly
say that the forest was illuminated with
hundreds of thousands of tiny lamps. We
have seen a few of these flies every night
lately ; but it is only occasionally, and in the
immediate neighbourhood of the river, that
they show themselves in such immense numbers..
The cries of tigers and other beasts of prey
echoed through the forests all night, and be-
tween one or two o'clock in the morning, the
loud bellowing of a buffalo announced that it
had been so unfortunate as to fall into the
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 185,
clutches of one of the striped monarchs of the
wilderness. It is said that the tiger dare not
attack a herd of buffaloes, and that the bull
buffalo is a match for a full-grown tiger. I can-
not confirm this ; but I do know that buffaloes
are frequently pulled down by tigers, and I
have seen the partly-consumed carcasses lying in
the vicinity of a tiger's haunt.
JAN. 3. This morning we crossed a large
river running from the north-east, and empty-
ing itself into the Menam. We proceeded
three or four miles up its right bank, and
finding that there was no chance of being able
to ford across it, we constructed rafts for the
goods, and swam the horses and cattle over.
It took us three hours and a half to cross,,
including time spent in felling young trees, &c. r
for constructing the rafts. The width of the
river was, perhaps, three hundred yards. Like
the Menam, both of its banks were covered
with dense forest. In the trees about this
river we saw, beside numerous monkeys, some
small flying animal a flying squirrel, flying^
fox, lemur, or some animal of that class. It
*86 A NARRATIVE
was very quick in its movements, and all our
endeavours to shoot one for a closer exami-
nation were unsuccessful. They kept at a
great height from the ground, and it was our
opinion that their fur offered resistance to the
shot, as several times we felt sure they had
been struck.
We found ourselves in a regular fix on the
opposite shore, on account of the boggy nature
of the ground. The oxen sank in to the knees ;
the horses were in an even worse plight, and
were unable to carry our weight through the
tenacious mud. We were compelled to dis-
mount, and for the next four hours we had a
terrible struggle. In that space of time we did
not get over more than a mile of this accursed
bog, and two of the oxen stuck fast and could
not be extricated. To save the poor brutes
from a lingering death they were shot. Mr.
{rrant had also a narrow escape ; for pushing
forward adventurously to find the best ground,
he slipped into a mud-hole, and was buried to
his arm-pits. It took us half an hour to dig
him out ; and he was then pretty well ex-
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 187
liausted. Two or three of the men after wards
met with the same accident ; but they were
rescued with less difficulty.
At length we became so exhausted that we
were almost ready to give up, and lie down to
die. Fortunately, and as if directed by the special
hand of Providence, we found a small patch of
firmer ground, not more than half an acre in
*extent. Here we contrived to pitch our tent,
-and make arrangements for passing the night ;
but we could not find any dry fuel with which
to make a fire. This caused us some suffering,
as we were wet through, covered with mud,
.and badly in need of a hot meal. The cattle
.also suffered much from need of forage.
A night of misery and a gloomy daybreak.
Mud beneath, and thick foliage above that
nearly shuts out the light of heaven ; for this
morass is covered with a forest growth which
proves that ths mud is not of any great depth.
There is not much comfort to be gleaned from
that fact, however, since it is evidently deep
enough to make it a matter of doubt whether
we shall ever get out of this place alive.
i88 A NARRATIVE
At daybreak we held a consultation as to the
course to be pursued. At first we thought of
beating a retreat ; but that mile of mud that
had taken four hours to conquer, could not be
got through again in the present weak state of
ourselves and the cattle. Besides, we had found
one tolerably firm piece of ground, and we hoped
it might be the forerunner of others. It was
reasonable to expect that the farther inland
from the river we could get, the better we
might expect the ground to be. At all events,
we must take our chance ; and to advance
seemed to us less dangerous than to attempt
a retreat.
Our servants were quite lethargic with fear
and exhaustion, and we had some difficulty in
arousing them to action. Akbar Nanee was the
most self-possessed, and encouraged by the
example of this man and our own assumed
cheerfulness, they made an exertion to get our
little caravan under weigh. As we had expected,
we found small oases of firm ground at frequent
intervals ; but the bog between them was
frightful. In eight hours we travelled some-
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 189
thing less than five miles, at a rough calcu-
lation ; and another ox had to be destroyed. It
became fixed in the mud, and in trying to
drag it out with ropes, its leg was pulled out
of the socket. In consequence of this loss of
our cattle, a good part of the most unnecessary
articles in our baggage was abandoned.
Our attendants have now entirely lost their
pluck. Two men sat down with the inten-
tion of quietly perishing without making any
further exertion to save their lives ; and it
was not until we had resorted to violence
that they would continue to perform their
duties. They did not, however, show any-
thing of a mutinous spirit ; but with the
apathy of their race wished to be suffered
to lie down and die in peace.
We had, fortunately, a good supply of
brandy and other stimulants with us, and
were thus enabled to hold out hours after
we should otherwise have succumbed. When
night began to draw on, we were undoubtedly
nearing a more comfortable tract of country ;
and though we were obliged to halt, we
190 A NARRATIVE
were considerably cheered by being able to
light fires and procure some coarse grass-
for the oxen and horses. During this night
the trees were so thickly crowded wth fire-
flies that they looked like masses of phos-
phorescent light.
JAN. 5. Owing to our wearied condition
we did not start from our camping-place till
mid-day. We had now no more than about
six inches of sticky mud, but it was of a
slimy, slippery consistence, and the oxen and
horses fell frequently. We could not yet
ride the latter, and the poor beasts had
scarcely sufficient strength left to be^ar the
baggage.
The trees here were tall, with trunks of
immense size. There was no undergrowth at
all, and but very little coarse grass growing
in patches here and there. No monkeys or
other animals were to be' seen, and scarcely
a bird. The silence was death-like, and the
solitude frightful. I am not surprised that the
blacks were quite disheartened.
We got along very well considering the
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. i 9 r
exhausted condition of men and cattle, and
the wretched character of the ground. Halts,
of course, were frequent, and the total length
of the day's journey did not exceed eight
miles ; but we were then on tolerably firm
footing, and had found some low bushes,
the tender shoots of which were very accept-
able to the beasts. This spot was overrun
with the small frilled lizard, spoken of on a
former occasion as inhabiting marshy land.
No animals or birds seen, and no sounds heard
save the melancholy sighing of the breeze
through the tree-tops.
JAN. 6. Nothing particular to retard our
journeying to-day except weakness. We want
to lie by for a rest ; but the country is hardly
favourable for that yet. Our feet have become
thoroughly sodden, and covered with sores,
especially those of the blacks, who do not
wear shoes but a kind of sandal. We are
living entirely upon biscuit, bread, and potted
meat. There is no lack of water, for pools
of it are found at every hundred yards or so.
We are mostly distressed by want of grass-
A NARRATIVE
for the cattle, and are obliged to cut down
branches from the trees in order that they
may eat the leaves. We are marching in a
south-east direction, supposing the Menam to
be but a mile or two distant on our right
hand. Day's march, about eight miles,
through forest. Country improving rapidly.
Good grass at halting- point, though in small
patches.
JAN. 7. To our great joy we reached the
boundary of the morass about ten o'clock this
morning. The country beyond is covered
with the never terminating forest ; but there
is undergrowth, which, though troublesome,
affords good food for horses and oxen. Here
we have determined to halt until our strength
is thoroughly recruited.
JAN. 8. Mr. Grant was very ill all day,
.suffering apparently from jungle fever. All
of us, including the blacks, are more or less
unwell. Myself and Lacy went out in search
of game. We neither found any nor met with
traces of its being in the neighbourhood.
The only living creatures seen were some
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 193
flying squirrels, birds, lizards, and a small
green snake. We shot two snipes and cooked,
them for Grant, but he could not eat.
JAN. 9. It being very desirable and neces-
sary for the preservation of health that we-
should obtain a supply of fresh meat, and
there being evidently no large game in this
region, we broke up our camp this morning,,
and moved south-west, to get nearer the
river, where we were pretty certain of find-
ing deer and antelopes. We discovered that
we were farther away from the Menam than
we thought. We had marched twelve miles-
in a diagonal direction before we had reached
it. We should have gone over a greater
distance had not Mr. Grant been too ill to sit
his horse and expressed a great desire for rest.
We found a very good spot under a ban-
yan tree for pitching the tent, and having
made our patient as comfortable as possible-
under the circumstances, we rode a few miles
down the river, and had the good fortune to
shoot a small antelope and a few ducks. Mr.
Grant was able to partake of a little broth
13
i 9 4 A NARRATIVE
made from the venison; but during the night
he was so bad that we felt quite alarmed on
his account. He is in a high state of fever,
and one of the native attendants is also laid
up.
JAN. 10. The cattle, which were much
reduced by their late exertion, look better
already. The attendants fed them with a
weed which grows very abundantly just here
in the Menam. It is found in all the streams and
rivers throughout the country, growing under
water, and cattle and buffalo are very fond
of it. There is, moreover, plenty of good grass
about here. No improvement in Mr. Grant's
condition. The sick black has also evidently
got an attack of fever; but we cannot get
the stupid fellow to take the quinine which
we offer to him.
During the llth, 12th, 13th, and 14th,
there was no perceptible change in Mr.
Grant. On the latter day he seemed much
worse, and we gave up all hope of his re-
covery. The other man, notwithstanding his
obstinate refusal to take any remedies, got
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 195
better, and does not appear the worse for his
.sickness.
During those days we shot over the ground
near our tent, and bagged a fine pea-fowl,
partridges, ducks, snipe, &c., and a couple
of antelopes. At night buffalo and deer came
down to the river to drink, and also a
rhinoceros or two. We shot one buffalo.
132
CHAPTER X.
Improvement in Mr. Grant's condition. Beautiful little
finch. Resume our journey. Small plains. Sharp en-
counter with a rhinoceros. A rhinoceros killed with a
single shot. Boats and rafts pass down the river.
Reeds, mosquitos, and gnats. Extraordinary appear-
ance of the clouds. The forest appears to be a mass of
silvery light. Description of the country. Find remains
of a buffalo. A tiger shot. Dense forest. Compelled
to camp out. Men sent in search of us.
A NARRATIVE OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 199
JAN. 15. We were greatly rejoiced to-day at
a decided improvement in Mr. Grant's state.
He is far less feverish, and has a ravenous
appetite ; he would have eaten much more
than we thought it prudent to permit him.
While in the forest to-day, I shot a beautiful
little finch. The crown of its head, back of
the neck, and shoulders were sky-blue. The
upper part of the body and wings were nearly
black, the tail and wings being marked with
crimson ; and the throat and breast were
crimson, gradually fading into a pinky-white
on the belly. In size it was rather less than
a sparrow.
The roaring of a tiger was heard during
the night, and the trees were again splendidly
illuminated by the fire-flies. Nothing material
occurred in the course of the next three days.
Mr, Grant made rapid strides towards re
A NARRATIVE
covery, and amused himself with stuffing the
small birds which we shot for his collection.
Since we have been in the country he has
got together nearly a hundred different species,
several of which he considers are quite new
to science, and others but imperfectly known
and described.
Myself and Lacy passed the time, which
hung heavily on our hands, in shooting and
wandering about the forest. We made several
excursions in search of a tiger, but were un-
successful, though we had often heard the
cry of the animal during the past week.
JAN. 16. Mr. Grant being well enough to
endure the exertion of riding, we broke up
our camp, and proceeded on our way south,
keeping along the bank of the river, which was
here about three quarters of a mile wide.
Many small streams ran into it, some of which
were nearly choked up with reeds. The coun-
try here seems more fertile than farther north ;
and we were pleased to again meet with
troops of monkeys, for it is a singular fact
that wherever these animals are found there
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 201
is generally an abundance of large game and
birds. Parrots are as plentiful as in any of
the forests hitherto passed through.
The ground eastward seems to rise in low
undulating hills, but they are of insignificant
elevation, and not arranged in chains or
ranges. The forest, though dense, is not
unbroken, and we passed over several plains
almost destitute of trees ; but these were
of such small extent as to scarcely justify
particular mention. The whole face of the
country may be called one vast forest of
gigantic trees.
JAN. 17. While crossing one of the small
plains, or glades, such as were described yes-
terday, we met with a large single-horned
rhinoceros. He was standing, when first seen,
perfectly motionless perhaps listening, for
they are very quick of ear, and some sound
from our party must have reached him. Halt-
ing the men, myself and Lacy dismounted and
cautiously neared the brute, which beyond a
slight movement of the head gave no sign of
life ; and looked uncommonly like a
202 A NARRATIVE
model of a rhinoceros, such as I have seen in
some museum.
I would here remark that we always attacked
the dangerous game on foot for these reasons :
that it is impossible to take a steady aim from
horseback ; and, moreover, it is necessary to-
approach so close for an effective shot, that in
the event of the beast making a sudden rush,
he is nearly sure to be upon you before you
can spur your horse out of the way ; besides,,
it is ten to one that the latter does not become
frightened and unmanageable. It would be
madness to attack a tiger on horseback, and
nearly as dangerous to repeat the experiment
with a rhinoceros.
The sight of the rhinoceros is very dun, and
owing to this circumstance if you are careful
not to make any noise, you may get quite close
to it without being observed. There were
trees within forty yards of our rhinoceros, so-
that we were well concealed ; but there being
some bushes still nearer to it, we crawled
forward under their shelter, and gave it the
first shot behind the shoulder from a distance
Of TRA VEL AND SPORT. 203.
of only twenty yards. Up to this moment
the beast had remained perfectly quiet ; but
on receipt of the bullet he wheeled round and
charged with the rapidity of a flash of light-
ning before Captain Lacy had time to fire a
shot. I had not time to rise and get out of
the way, and only saved myself by rolling over
and over in a very undignified manner. It
is almost marvellous that the rhinoceros did
not see me ; but his whole attention was.
concentrated on the bush, which he appeared
to think was the foe from whence the attack
proceeded. He trampled over it, breaking it
down with the weight of his huge body, and
commenced to rip it to pieces with his-
horn.
Meantime Captain Lacy blazed away with
both barrels from behind a tree trunk, and
though the beast was bad]y hurt it charged
at him desperately, which gave me an oppor-
tunity of recovering my rifle, which was lying
near the bush. It was difficult now to hit
the rhinoceros in a vital part, for it was tear-
ing about wildly amongst the bushes, evidently
204 A NARRATIVE
in search of its foe. We discharged eight or
nine shots at it before it fell, and every time
we fired it charged furiously in the direction
of the report of the rifle, and it required some
nimbleness to get out of its way. Even when
it sank to the ground it made strenuous efforts
to rise again, and received six more bullets
before it was finished off. At this juncture
Mr. Grant came up with two spare rifles,
alarmed at the continued firing and great
commotion which he had witnessed from the
distance.
Our aiming in this little affair had been very
bad, for though no less than nineteen bullets
had penetrated this beast, not one of them
had hit a really vital part; and it had been
literally bled to death by the number of its
wounds. In curious contrast with this difficulty
in slaying a rhinoceros was another adventure
that happened that same evening while my-
self and Lacy were out searching for game
after the tent had been pitched.
We had taken a rather long ramble, and
darkness was coming on fast, so that we
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 205
struck the river and began to hasten back to
our camp, distant a good three miles. Not half
a mile of this distance was got over when we
came upon a very large rhinoceros standing
in the water about twenty yards from the
bank. We were so anxious to get back to
our tent before darkness had set in that we
should probably have passed the brute with-
out interfering with it had it not come out of
the water and made a demonstration of dis-
puting our passage. Captain Lacy dropped
upon his knee and fired, and the rhinoceros
fell with a heavy shock. The muscular twitch-
ing of its limbs, which ceased in a minute or
two, showed that it had been killed outright ;
and upon walking up to it we found that the
bullet had actually penetrated the brain
through the eye, which was more the effect of
chance than design.
Besides rhinoceroses we have found the foot-
prints of deer, wild elephants, boar, and buffalo
in the soft earth and mud of the river bank ;
and all sorts of birds are very abundant. Mr.
Grant informed us that during our absence a
A NARRATIVE
ilock of some hundreds of flamingoes were
feeding for more than an hour in the river
abreast of our camp. He saw them repeatedly
catch and swallow fish of considerable size.
JAN. 18. We passed the carcass of the
rhinoceros killed last night. Some beasts of
prey have already been at it, and have torn
away the flesh from the side lying uppermost,
so that we can look into the cavity of the
stomach. A flock of greedy buzzards flew
away from it as we drew near, and, pitching
upon the trees and bushes near at hand, only
awaited our departure to recommence opera-
tions.
About half-past eight a long string of flat-
bottomed boats and rafts passed us, going
down the river with merchandise. They
were propelled with long- poles by the boat-
men, who seemed greatly astonished when we
hailed them ; but they disregarded our request
that they would stop and land. Their progress
was much faster than ours, and in a very short
time they had rounded a bend in the river and
were out of sight.
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 207
In this part of the river there are immense
quantities of tall reeds, which in some places
prevented us from seeing the water. Millions
of mosquitos and gnats harbour about these
reeds, and are exceedingly tormenting, con-
tinually getting into our eyes and stinging
every exposed part of our bodies without mercy.
Here, also, there were great numbers of a large
red fly with green wings, which attacked our
cattle and horses and drove them half wild. It
was in vain for us to go farther inland ;
wherever we went the flies followed us in
clouds.
Eastward there are many low hills, covered
like all other parts of the country with dense
forest. By-the-by, the forest here is closely
matted together with creepers, parasites, &c.,
a peculiarity not met with in all parts. Near
the river the trees grow at wider intervals,
and travelling is comparatively easy ; but the
forest is quite impenetrable. We did not
march more than six miles to-day on account
of the weakness of Mr. Grant. He has quite
recovered from his attack of fever, but it
2 o8 A NARRATIVE
has left him in a low and exhausted con-
dition.
The clouds this evening presented an extra-
ordinary yet beautiful appearance. Large
masses of deep purple and light red clouds
were arranged in such a manner as to pro-
duce the most curious and eccentric figures
and shapes. "We remarked that if any painter
dared to represent such a strange mass of
clouds, and with such abnormal tints and
colours, his picture would excite more ridicule
than any of the caricatures of Punch. People
who never move from home can have but a poor
idea of the wonders of nature as seen in eastern
and tropical countries. In some parts of Siam
we have met with a tree or shrub, the foliage of
which is a brilliant crimson ; but if any artist
was to introduce such a tree into his landscape,
would it not be thought that his imagination
had been at work ?
When darkness set in the forest became one
mass of silvery light, so thickly were the fire-
flies clustering on the trees. The strangest
sight, however, was on the opposite bank of
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 209
the river, where the flies, owing to the distance,
could not be distinctly seen, and yet the phos-
phorescent glitter of their lights was visible,
making the trees appear exactly as if they were
burning with a white flame. Many wild ani-
mals came down to the water, greatly disturbing
our rest throughout the night. As the roar of
the tiger resounded from many parts of the
forest, we kept large fires burning as a protec-
tion to ourselves and the cattle.
JAN. 19. Mr. Grant entreated that we would
halt for a day, to give him an opportunity of
obtaining rest, of which he was sadly in need.
Lacy and myself, therefore, taking Akbar and
two more of the attendants, went off for a day's
sport. Quite close to our camp we found the
fresh footmarks of a large tiger. It had
actually been within eighty or a hundred yards
of the spot where the oxen were picketed, and
had, no doubt, only been deterred from attack-
ing them by the large fires which we had kept
burning brightly.
We decided to follow the track of this brute,
and endeavour to destroy it ; but after tracing
14
210 A NARRATIVE
it for nearly two miles, the beast had entered a
tangled brake which we could not penetrate.
Working our way amidst the trees as well as
we could, we made a north-east course, being
constantly obliged to have recourse to the com-
pass for guidance. After three hours' real hard
work, we calculated we were not more than five
or six miles from our camp, so slow had our
progress been. These forests were full of pea-
fowl and the three different species of monkeys
mentioned and described on a former occasion ;
but though their cries and chattering pro-
claimed how numerous they were, the trees
were so tall, and the masses of creeping plants
that hung down so thick, that we seldom saw
them ; and to make use of our fire-arms was
quite impossible, for we had scarcely elbow-room,
and even had we shot a bird> it would not, in all
probability, have reached the ground. Indeed,
on the previous evening, we had tried to shoot
pea-fowl in a similar maze to this, arid of twelve
birds at least that were killed, only two could
be got at. and the servants had to climb the
trees after those.
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 211
Bat to resume. In three hours we unex-
pectedly came to the outskirts of this forest
track, and found the country beyond rather
hilly, rough, and broken. The highest eleva-
tions, however, did not rise to a greater
height than a hundred and fifty feet, or there-
abouts. These hills were mostly covered with
tall trees, at least two hundred feet in height ;
but there were here some patches of jungle
growth so full of snakes and other reptiles
that we could not enter them ; and also
some level plains clothed with bushes, where
we surprised several small herds of buffalo,
and *shot three of them. We halted by the
sides of the carcasses, lit a fire, and cooked
some steaks that ate deliciously, no doubt
partly because the tough work of the morning
had made us ravenously hungry. After a
short rest we despatched Akbar and the
two servants back to the camp, with as much
of the buffalo beef as they could carry ; and
made a fresh start ourselves, still pushing
forward in a north-east direction.
Between one and two o'clock in the after-
142
212 A NARRATIVE
noon, we came upon the remains of a buffalo-
that had been pulled down by a tiger. The
whole rear portion of the animal had been
eaten away, and buzzards and small beasts
of prey were busy upon what remained.
Our advent, of course, put them to flight ; but
they did not retire very far, and remained
on the outskirts of the forest, anxiously wait-
ing until the coast should be clear. We had
not, however, any intention of moving away ;
but knowing full well that the tiger would'
return to finish his meal, set about in-
trenching ourselves to give him a warm re-
ception.
We had to wait a long while. It was
nearly six o'clock in the evening before a
warning growl sent the buzzards and lynxes
flying, and our tiger, a magnificent animal
more than six feet in length, stepped upon
the scene. He commenced operations upon
the remnants of the buffalo without loss of
time, tearing away at them vigorously, quite
unconscious of our presence and the fate that
awaited him. Captain Lacy was the first to
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 21$
fire, aiming at the breast, which, was full in
front of us. The tiger dropped without a
growl, falling flat on its belly, and lifting up
its head gasped for breath. A shot from
my rifle eased it of all pain ; but it did
not roll over when dead. It remained in a
sitting posture, as though its meal had only
been temporarily interrupted.
It was too late for us to think of skinning
it. As it was, it was certain that it would be
dark before we could possibly regain our
camp ; 'we therefore started off at once,
leaving the tiger in the position in which it
had died.
The thick forest tract was a source of great
trouble to us, and we were frequently under
the impression that we had lost our way.
When it became dark and unfortunately
there was no moon it was impossible for us
to continue to read the compass, and down
we sat, scarcely knowing what to do. We
had not penetrated the forest very far as
yet, and determined to try and make our way
back to the spot where the buffalo had been
2i 4 A NARRATIVE
shot. In this we were successful ; for when
we got clear of the trees there was sufficient
starlight to guide us to the place. We
found that the fire that had been lighted
in the morning was still smouldering, and
we speedily blew it up into a blaze, added
more fuel, and cooked ourselves a good
supper of buffalo beef : so that on the whole-
we did not fare so badly, especially as the
night was warm, and we had taken the-
precaution to bring our cloaks with us.
At three o'clock in the morning it began to
be daylight, and we started for our camp r
advancing at the quickest pace possible, know-
ing that the anxiety of Mr. Grant at our
prolonged absence would be very great. In
spite of all our exertions, it was mid- day be-
fore we arrived at the tent, thoroughly beat.
Mr. Grant was quite alarmed, feeling sure
that some accident had befallen us, and had
sent out all the attendants except one in
search of us. We were rather surprised that
we had not met with any of these men, who
had gone out by twos, taking different direc-
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 2 1 5
tibns. It was five o'clock in the afternoon
before they had all returned; having, it is
needless to say, been unsuccessful in their
search.
This expedition had been so tiring that we
found it advisable to lie by a second day ;
an arrangement that pleased Mr. Grant, who
is afflicted with an unconquerable lassitude
and desire to remain quiet.
CHAPTER XI.
Village in an unusually filthy state. Inquisitiveness of the
natives. Fruit abundant. Density of the population.
Large tracts cleared of timber. Horrors of a night in a
native hut. Enormous number of rats. Compelled to
turn out. Differences with our landlord. Large river.
Slaughter of buffaloes. Fauna met with. Domestic
animals. Ferocious dog. Tedious march. Arrive at
Siam. Disposition of the natives. Siamese dramatic
entertainment. Extensive rice fields. Pretty scenery.
Arrival at Bangkok. Meet with an Englishman, and are
kindly entertained by him. Floating houses. Alteration
of our arrangements. Mr. Grant leaves for Rangoon.
A NARRATIVE OF TRAVEL AND SPORT.
JAN. 22. The most important occurrence of
this day's journey was the arriving at a village
built on the banks of the Menam. It con-
tained fifty-two huts and houses, some of
them two stories in height ; but there was no
pagoda in or near it. The people were greatly
astonished at our appearance, and seemed
considerably more stupid and slothful in their
habits than those we have communicated
with previously. "We did not feel at all en-
couraged to remain a night amongst them,
partly on account of the filthy state of the
, place, and the horrid effluvia arising there-
from; and, accordingly, resumed our journey
early in the afternoon and pushed on another
eight miles, making about sixteen in all ; in
the course of which distance we have crossed
five small and three large streams (all ford-
able) emptying themselves into the Menam.
220 A NARRATIVE
Well watered as the country is, we can
discover no signs of any part of it being under
cultivation, though large tracts have been
cleared of timber, much of which probably
lias been floated down to Bangkok. Some
of the land is rather boggy, and in the rainy
season is undoubtedly inundated. Two large
alligators were seen in the river to-day, and
one dead, lying in the mud on the bank.
Mr. Grant evidently requires a long period
of rest to recover his strength. Every march
that we take knocks him up, and to-night
he is quite prostrate. We have decided to
reach Bangkok which we suppose to be
distant about one hundred miles as speedily
as circumstances will permit.
JAN. 23. Three hamlets passed through,
and two others seen. The people betray much
astonishment, and in one place, when they
discovered that Angbang understood their
language, made many inquiries about our
business, &c., and particularly wanted to know
where our horses were procured. A pagoda
of small size was passed on the road between
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 221
two of these villages ; but, with the excep-
tion of one or two patches of rice, no culti-
vated ground. Fruit trees are abundant
everywhere about here, growing wild ; but
I do not think they could possibly be improved
by cultivation. However that may be, the
fruit is far superior to that produced by
European trees.
Round each village the ground has been
cleared of timber ; but we do not see a sign of
any domestic creatures, save dogs, fowls, and
pigs in fact there are no others generally kept
in any part of the country, except in the sea-
port towns.
JAN. 24. As we advance we find the vil-
lages and hamlets appear in rapid succession.
Some of these, too, are of considerable size,
containing perhaps four or five hundred inhabit-
ants. Fields of rice are also more frequently
met with, and the people seem tolerably clean
and orderly ; though they scarcely come up to
the standard of those farther north in this
respect. Much timber has been felled, and one
village that we passed was built almost entirely
222 A NARRATIVE
on rafts floating in the river. Other houses
are built on piles. Wood is the principal
material of which they are constructed.
Several pagodas lay in our road, well-kept,
fine-looking buildings, invariably sheltered with
banyan trees and groves of palm. We saw
monkeys here in the trees that grew close
round the village, and hundreds of parrots
perch upon the roofs of the houses ; and in the
villages which are built on the banks of the
river, the storks have built many nests on the
roofs.
We passed this night in a harnlet, and in
order that Mr. Grant should have better
accommodation than the tent afforded, we hired
the use of an empty house. This house con-
tained two stories, and a sort of garret in the
roof above. The ground-floor appearing to be
rather damp, we made our beds on the second,
which was reached by a rough bamboo ladder.
The night to us was a night of horrors on a
small scale. Being wretchedly tired I fell
asleep myself the moment I lay down ; but I
think a very few minutes could have elapsed
OF 2 RAVEL AND SPORT. 223
before I was awakened by a sharp pain about
the feet. I started up and the pain ceased.
It was pitch dark, for there was only one small
opening in the wall to admit air, and I could
see nothing ; but below there was a noise as of
some one sprawling over the floor. I thought
it was one of the men moving about (some of
whom were sleeping below), and composed
myself to rest again, to be again aroused by
a pain about the feet and legs, as if something
was gnawing them. There was also a noise
as of a lot of dogs scampering about the room,
and Mr. Grant sang out, and Lacy banged
something upon the floor, and gave vent to
an imprecation more forcible than elegant.
We had a lantern with us, and it was soon
lighted, revealing a sight that might well have
shocked the nerves of a weak person. Hundreds
of rats were running about the room, and when
disturbed by the light, bolted into holes in the
walls and floor, and some of them actually ran
up the wall in their efforts to escape, while five
or six serpents hung by their tails from the
bamboo ceiling, every now and then darting
224 A NARRATIVE
at a lizard, or such rats as came near them. My
legs and feet were bitten and bleeding ; Cap-
tain Lacy was in the same plight, and had also
been bitten in the face, and Mr. Grant had
a finger badly gnawed. Lacy killed several of
the rats with his boot, and leaving the lantern
alight, we hoped that we should not be further
disturbed, and once more rolled ourselves in
our blankets. Of the snakes we had no fear,,
knowing that they were harmless, and if left un-
disturbed would not come down from the ceiling.
It soon became evident that it was vain to-
hope for rest in this place. The rats speedily
got used to the light, and came out of their
holes in scores. We tried all sorts of means to
prevent them from getting at us, but without
success. Although we were uncomfortably
warm, we wrapped our blankets tightly round
us ; but the tiresome vermin eat their way
through to our feet and legs, parts that they
particularly attacked. They also bit us about
the face and neck, and at length came out in
such swarms that we were compelled to vacate
the place.
Of TRAVEL AND SPORT. 225
All this time a great noise had been going on
below, and when we made our appearance we
found that the men had fared as badly as our-
selves. Two or three of them were severely
bitten, and they had killed more than two
hundred rats. The place was literally alive
with them, and we were only too glad to get
out to our tent.
JAN. 25. -Angbang found out that the house
where we had passed part of last night had
been abandoned on account of being overrun
with vermin, and the owner had been guilty of
an imposition in letting it to us ; we therefore
refused to pay him for its use. The fellow
made a great noise, and collected a crowd of
the inhabitants around us ; but it was of no
avail ; he did not get his money.
"We have now decidedly got into an in-
habited and rudely cultivated district. Vil-
lages and small hamlets are numerous, and
there are many patches of rice growing near
the river, though not of any considerable ex-
tent. The land has been cleared to a
great extent of forests, but there are still
15
226 A NARRATIVE
some large tracts, and much of the ground
is covered with jungle and bamboo brakes,
which, we are assured by the inhabitants,
are much frequented by tigers. We, how-
ever, saw no traces of them or other large
game, with the exception of a few antelope,
several of which we shot.
JAN. 26. Two hours' march brought us to
a river of great size, six or seven hundred
yards wide. Previous to this, we have found
the country well watered with small streams
and brooks, all running, of course, into the
Menam. This river caused an impediment to
our progress, as we did not dare attempt to
cross it on rafts at this spot, where the
current, was rapid and strong. At the point
where it joined the Menam, the latter river
was quite a mile wide. Proceeding up its
left bank for six miles, we came to a village
called by the inhabitants Caganitroot, or, ac-
cording to Captain Lacy's orthography, Cag-
annetroot. This was a large village, but
straggling, and built amidst an uncleared
forest district, so that it was not easy to
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 227
ascertain its real extent. Many of the houses,
as elsewhere, were built in the river on
rafts. Plenty of boats were obtainable here,
but they were so small as not to hold an ox
with safety, and we were obliged to con-
struct rafts for the conveyance of the cattle,
hiring the boats to tow them across the river.
These operations consumed the greater part
of the 27th, and we did not move from the
left bank until the morning of the 28th.
After marching five miles in a direct south
direction we were compelled to alter our
route to the east for some distance, in order
to avoid an extensive tract of morass. This
morass was destitute of trees, but it nourished
thickets of thorn bushes, bearing a bright
and pretty yellow flower. Three or four
herds of buffalo were seen wallowing in the
mud of the moister places, one of them
numbering nearly a hundred beasts. "We
slaughtered four of them, and secured a good
stock of the meat. The buffalo can generally be
shot without much danger to the sportsman ;
but if the first bullet does not happen to
152
228 A NARRATIVE
mortally or badly wound it, it will sometimes
attack him with, great fierceness.
The country east of the morass was covered
with the usual forest of gigantic trees,
broken occasionally with a patch of jungle.
The undergrowth was composed largely of
thorn bushes, which were exceedingly trouble-
some, on account of the irritation the thorns
caused to the cattle. In places it was
necessary to clear our passage with an axe,
and in consequence of the delays this caused
we did not advance more than nine or ten
miles. We were quite out of sight of the
river Menam, but could see southwards for
about seven miles. This was almost the
first time since we have been in the country
that such an extensive view over the country
could be obtained. The landscape was not
very attractive, there being little to catch
the eye save a monotonous level swamp covered
with thorn bushes and the dark forest in
the background. A village was visible, how-
ever, and, had it been possible, we should
have preferred to reach it before halting.
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 229
As it was five miles off, this was out of
the question.
For the last fifty or sixty miles of our
journey we have seen no pea-fowl, and very
few pheasants. Parrots and monkeys abound
in infinitely greater numbers than any other
members of animated nature ; and near the
water there are large flocks of flamingoes, ducks,
storks, snipe, herons, ibises, and bitterns. We
have also seen some beautiful species of the
kingfisher family ; but these are scarce.
Throughout the night we were pestered in-
tolerably with inosquitos, nor are we altogether
left at peace by these bloodthirsty little
wretches during the day-time, though the
gnats are then our chief enemies. Once again
this night we witnessed the gloriously beautiful
sight produced by myriads of fire-flies on the
trees.
JAN. 29. Passed through the village
spoken of last night. It is surrounded by
boggy ground where large quantities of rice
are grown. Great numbers of fowl and pigs
were running about in the streets, and the
2 3 o A NARRATIVE
place appeared to be thickly populated. When
passiDg out of the village a dog ran out of one
of the huts and bit one of our attendants in
the calf of the leg. The man struck at the dog
and killed it, upon which the owner of 'the
animal came out in a great rage, and refusing to
accept payment for the damage done, followed
us for nearly a mile on the road, heaping all
sorts of abuse upon our heads. This is the
second squabble we have been so unfortunate
as to have with natives of this part of the
country.
Three other small hamlets were passed
during the day; but as they did not lie in
our road they were not entered. We met with
several of the inhabitants : some of them at
work felling timber, others collecting wild honey.
The gutta-percha tree, as well as teak, banyans,
and many other fine trees, are very abundant ;
and we saw great quantities of pepper growing
wild. Here we also noticed, for the first time,
trees covered with the celebrated lac, which
forms such a considerable article of commerce in
Europe. It is well known that it is formed
O^ TRAVEL AND SPORT. 231
through an insect, coccus laccce, piercing the
branches, when a sort of gum exudes and
hardens. The branches bearing it are called
" stick-lac," and look like rough sticks of glue
of a reddish hue.
JAN. 30. After a tedious march of sixteen
miles over a country, sometimes boggy and
covered with jungle and thorn bushes, at others
almost impassable on account of the luxuriant
forest growth, we arrived in sight of the gilded
domes and minarets of Yuthia, or Siam, the
former capital of the country. It was four
o'clock in the afternoon before we reached
the city, having marched at least twenty-four
miles since starting in the morning.
The city of Yuthia, or Siam, as it was for-
merly called, is built partly upon an arm of
the Menam, and partly upon a large island
formed by the delta of that river. Like Pegu
it has been destroyed by the Burmese, and like
that city, it is partly in ruins. In fact, it is
quite a decayed place, with little trade, except
amongst its own inhabitants and such natives
as resort to it for articles not procurable at
232 A NARRATIVE
places farther in the interior of the country.
"When we entered the city, we found stalls in
all the principal streets, and large "quantities of
merchandise spread out upon cloths upon the
ground. There is always great bustle in an
Indian city, and Yuthia is no exception to the
rule. Natives of all grades and castes crowd
the streets, and it is impossible to move very
quickly, however anxious you may be to do so.
But people who travel anywhere in Southern
Asia must never be in a hurry, that is, if you
wish to preserve your equanimity. If you
want your coat brushed, you must do it your-
self (not a* pleasant job in a warm ^climate), or
wait your servant's time. If you want the
man who runs your errands to make haste, he
will obey your wish or will not just as he
takes it into his head. And you must employ
a man for each distinct business! If you want
your cook to fetch you anything he won't do it,
and if you ask the man who washes your
clothes to make your bed, he will say " No,
sahib. Me not bed-maker ; me washer-man."
But mind you, if you give these rascals extra
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 233
pay they will do anything even eat pork.
But I am digressing.
We at first thought of procuring lodgings
in the city ; but the noise and bustle was so
great, and the whole appearance of the place
so far from enticing, that we altered our in-
tention, and passing out at the south gate
pitched our tent under the city walls near a
grove of sago palms.
We saw nothing at Yuthia particularly
worthy of note, except a sort of dramatic enter-
tainment. The city is not well built, and
though some of the houses have three stories,
the majority are low (or raised slightly on
short piles), and there is plenty of filth about
them.
The people themselves are cleanly, well-
behaved, and orderly in their transactions.
There are many temples and pagodas in the
city, but more in the forests around it. The
Chinese have several joss-houses, into which
strangers can get without difficulty by paying
a trifle to the keeper of the doors. How-
ever, there is nothing to see save a few hideous
234 A NARRATIVE
idols, one of which was evidently intended to
represent an ass.
The dramatic entertainment alluded to
above, consisted of a puppet show, in which
the figures were made to go through certain
parts, something like our Punch and Judy ;
but, notwithstanding Angbang's endeavours
to explain the plot of the piece, we failed to
understand it very clearly. It was a ]ove
story, and the persons represented were sup-
posed to be of royal rank. What difficulties
came in the way of the union of the love-
smitten young people I could not comprehend ;
but it would seem that papa had decided
objections, which, of course, were ultimately
transformed into a most beneficent anxiety
to see the dusky couple happy in the bonds of
matrimonial felicity.
Judging from the excited and boisterous
mirth of the crowd, some of the characters
must have been very fanny in their sayings,
and it was rather annoying to us not to be
able to understand the pith of Siamese wit.
The entertainment was given in the open air,
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT.
and the figures were well got up, and cleverly
worked. After the performance the cup was
brought round amongst the crowd, and the
donations appeared to be liberal.
We could form no idea of the population
of Yuthia ; but probably it is not under 40,000
persons, of whom a great number are, per-
haps, only temporary residents. The surface of
the Menam for a mile above and below the city
is covered with floating raft-houses.
After resting a day, we recommenced our
journey on the 1st of February, and our
progress was much accelerated by having a
made road upon which to travel. It is true
the road was not one of the best, for it was
soft and full of holes ; but it took us only
about one half the time to perform our day's
march of sixteen miles, that it would had we
been compelled to cross the rough and boggy
country for much of the region lying be-
between Yuthia and Bangkok is morass. This,
I think, is owing to the lowness of the banks
of the river, so that in the rainy season,
thousands of square miles are laid under water.
236 A NARRATIVE
We saw fields of rice here of hundreds of
acres in extent, with numerous flocks of the
rice-bird hovering about it, and doubtless
doing great damage, since many men, women,
and boys were striving to frighten them away,
by shouting and waving linen scarves in the
air. "We also met with a few odd patches of
pepper under cultivation, and in one village
that we passed through, some scores of Chinese
were preparing sago.
This is one of the prettiest parts of the
country we have seen : for cultivated land is
pleasantly intermixed with patches of forest
.and groves of feathery palms, and villages,
picturesque pagodas, and low houses are
frequently met with. In some places we
appear to excite great astonishment, in others
scarcely any notice it taken of us.
FEB. 2. The country is in most places fairly
peopled; but we passed through a tract of
forest extending for ten miles or so, where
monkeys and parrots were numerous, and upon
making a search we found some small ante-
lopes, four of which we shot. When within
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 237
sight of the river which is here quite a mile
broad we saw several fleets of boats and rafts
floating down the stream.
FEB. 3. The heat to-day was great, and
Mr. Grant suffered much from it. We halted,
after marching eight miles or so, and waited
for the evening. Thermometer in the shade
104. Mosquitos and gnats provoked us al-
most to madness. They even set at defiance
the tobacco smoke, which we had generally
found efficacious to drive them away. Mr.
Grant, who was too ill to smoke, had his eyes
bunged up ; and we were compelled to keep a
man constantly fanning him. The oxen were
so tormented that one ox broke loose, and two
hours were lost in capturing it.
A little before four o'clock in the afternoon
we made a fresh start, and in an hour came in
sight of the gilded minarets of Bangkok, and
the floating houses on the river; but we did
not reach the outskirts of the city until seven
o'clock. Angbang had been sent forward to
procure quarters for us, and he had been suc-
cessful. He had taken a large empty house
238 A NARRATIVE
that had formerly been occupied by a native
merchant. It was falling to decay ; but was
pleasantly situated near the confines of the
city, and answered our purpose very well ;
moreover, a large garden attached to it, well
supplied with gourds, fruits, &c., was an addi-
tional attraction. But we only passed one
night in it ; for the next day we met with an
Englishman, Mr. Fletcher, who was a civil
engineer, and had resided at Bangkok for
about ten months. He kindly invited us to
reside with him during our stay there, an
invitation that we gladly accepted, still keep-
ing on our own house or bungalow (if I may
use that term in this part of India) for the use
of our attendants. We soon found that there
were several other Englishmen sojourning in the
city, as well as one or two other Europeans, so
that we had no lack of society, and altogether
passed our time very comfortably here; and Mr.
Grant, having perfect rest, and plenty of good
nursing, regained his health and strength
rapidly, and in a fortnight appeared to have
thoroughly recovered.
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 239
I am not able to say anything new about
Bangkok, and I shall not entertain the reader
by repeating in my poor style what others have
described so graphically. It is well known
that nearly one half of the city is built upon
floating bamboo rafts, which are moored in streets
in the Menam, The ships which trade to Bang-
kok sail up the river, and anchor amongst the
houses ; and as many of the store-houses are
erected upon rafts, this gives great facility for
loading and unloading the vessels.
The houses are built of bamboo, rattans,
palm-trees, &c., formed into a sort of lattice-
work, with verandahs in. front, and are both
pretty and neat in appearance. The temples
are numerous and magnificent : but similar to
those seen in other parts of the country,
and already described. The city of Bangkok
covers an immense area, both on the banks
of the river and on the water itself. The
population amounts to nearly half a million.
Entirely fresh arrangements were now made
as to our future proceedings. I was determined
to visit the Malay Peninsula ; and Captain
240 A NARRATIVE
Lacy, after due consideration, decided to ac-
company me. Mr. Grant declined to take part
in this fresh expedition, on the ground that he
did not think his health would bear the re-
newed exertion of travelling ; and accordingly
we paid off all the servants except Laoo and
Akbar Nanee, whom myself and Lacy still
retained as personal attendants. Mr. Grant
undertook to see these discharged men back to
Rangoon, to which place we, of course, paid
for their passage on board of a merchant
steamer then lying in the river. We had some
difficulty in finding a customer for our oxen,
but the horses were disposed of for nearly
double what we had originally given for
them. Such of our goods, also, as we were
not likely to want or could not take with
us, found a ready market here, and fetched
(as do all European articles) a high price.
On the 24th of February Mr. Grant and the
servants sailed for Rangoon, where it was under-
stood he should be rejoined by Captain Lacy
when our proposed second journey was concluded.
CHAPTER XII.
Preparations for our expedition to Malaya. Sail for Patani.
The ship's crew. Duration of our voyage. Patani and
its inhabitants. Trade of Patani. We land. Character
of the country. Pass a night in a native hut. Villages
and cultivated ground. Singular appearance of the
forest. Large snake. Wasp-like fly. Gloom of the
forest. Rivulet. Slow rate of progress. Exceedingly
dense forest. Rest and sleep. Our discomforts.
16
A NARRATIVE OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 243
AFTER the departure of Mr. Grant we began to
make active preparations for our second expe-
dition, which was one of no little difficulty and
danger. The journey would have, of course, to
be performed on foot, and to take any amount
of baggage or stores was out of the question, as
we well knew from report that the country was
of a most impenetrable character. With regard
to servants for the conveyance of such articles
as it was necessary to take with us, we hired
two Chinamen who understood English * and
these, with Laoo and Akbar, were all the attend-
ants we deemed necessary, as the smaller the
party, under the circumstances, the better.
After a great deal of consideration, and some
consultation with Mr. Fletcher, we decided that
our starting-point should be the city of Patani,
a seaport on the north-east coast of the Malay
Peninsula, with which considerable trade was
162
244 A NARRATIVE
carried on by the Siamese. This place was easy
of access ; for Siamese craft were continually
sailing backwards and forwards, as well as
Malay proas, &c., and on the 2nd of March,
1870, we embarked upon a vessel belonging to
some Bangkok merchants. She was called the
Pujahtah, and was a small, bulky-looking ship,
manned by seventeen seamen, viz., ten Chinese
seamen, one Malay, four Siamese, a German
sailor who acted as mate, and the captain, also
a German. Neither of these Germans were
properly qualified to work a ship, having both
been merely common seamen ; but they had been
in their present employment for several years,
and had, so far, contrived to escape accidents.
Many foreigners are employed by the Siamese
to work their vessels, and so convinced are they
of the superiority of European mariners, that
they will give the charge of their ships to any
man who can read the compass ; nevertheless, I
believe wrecks and other accidents are not so
frequent as one would be led to suppose by this
fact.
The distance between Bangkok and Patani is
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 245
only about five hundred miles, yet it took us
eight days to reach the place. We did not
reach the mouth of the Menam until the
morning of the 3rd of March, and it was
* evening on the 10th when we arrived off Patani.
Although the city is said to contain more than
a hundred thousand inhabitants, we could
scarcely see a light ; but many noises, such as
men shouting, dogs barking, and gongs or bells
tolling, reached our ears.
At daybreak the city had a pretty effect, as
seen from our anchorage. The houses and huts
were half-hid from view by the foliage of palms
and other trees ; and though the city covered
an immense extent of ground, it contained few
buildings of great size, and I believe no stone
or brick buildings at all ; but as we did not
enter the place I cannot speak positively.
Trees were planted in great profusion amongst
the houses, and with most charming effect. It
is a Malay city, and I believe there are never
any permanent European residents residing
there. Its trade is very great, carried on
principally with other Malay cities on the east
246 A NARRATIVE
coast with Cochin-China, Cambodja, Siam,
and through Siam with China. It is also
visited by small craft from all these places,
including many junks from China, though the
chief trade with the latter country is, as I have
said, carried on through Siam. The articles
exported and imported are multitudinous, and
many of them are such as would not find a
market in any European country except as
objects of curiosity. The chief and most valu-
able exports are gold, precious stones (princi-
pally diamonds), ivory, areca, vegetable dyes,
cinnamon, pepper, cloves, cotton, indigo,
various fancy woods, edible nests, birds'
feathers (for China), luche de mer, &c., and
many articles used only by the natives on
various parts of the coast, and too trifling to
be mentioned. The imports consist largely of
European goods, especially arms and cutlery ;
also of linen, fancy prints, gunpowder, combs,
looking-glasses, cooking utensils, &c. Pins and
needles are much sought after by the Malay
merchants of Patani.
About ten o'clock on the morning of the llth
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 247
March we landed, taking with us the Malay
seaman from the Pujahtah, whose engagement
with the German captain terminated here, he
having only been employed for the voyage to
and from Bangkok. This man's name was Saja,
and he was especially serviceable to us on
account of his having a sufficient knowledge of
the English language to make himself under-
stood, and could thus act as an interpreter
between ourselves and his countrymen.
We proceeded on our journey at once, pass-
ing through the western suburbs of the city.
The streets were full of Malays, Chinamen,
and other natives of Southern Asia ; and the
noise and babbling was very great. Scarcely
any women were seen in the crowd ; and no
domestic animals of any kind except dogs
were observed. But there are plenty of
fowls here, and they are of immense size.
Proceeding due south we found the country
well cultivated, rice being the only grain
grown ; but there were plantations of areca,
cocoa-nuts, indigo, pepper, cloves, and cotton.
The villages and hamlets were so numerous,
248 A NARRATIVE
that we were never out of sight of one before
we were in view of another. The country
was undulating, and so thickly timbered that
we could never see more than two miles
ahead. Groves of trees were left unfelied
between each field, and in the fields also.
There were no fences or ditches around the
fields, and the roads were merely footpaths,
worn by the constant traffic of the la-
bourers.
The weather was close, and the heat great
(102 in the shade), and about mid-day we
were compelled to halt. Resuming our
journey in the afternoon, we made about
twelve miles, and then turned into a village
for the night. We were received into a hut
occupied by three men, seven women, and
four children. The three men appeared to
be joint owners of the hut a miserable
shanty, about twenty feet square, and full
of filth but we could not make sure about
the relation of the women to the men.
Polygamy exists in this country, and it is
probable that each woman was a wife of
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 249
one or other of the men. There was only
one apartment in the hut, and we all slept
together on mats spread over the floor.
Neither was there any furniture in the place,
except hunting, cooking, and agricultural
tools and utensils, all more or less of the
rudest manufacture.
In the morning we offered these people four
annas, Indian currency, for the accommodation
we had received. They took it, apparently
understanding the value of the money, and
well satisfied with the amount of the re-
ward.
In the distance of five miles we passed
six villages, some of them lying a mile or
two out of our road on either hand. The
ground about and between them was culti-
vated ; but the only productions we could see
were rice and cocoa-nuts, and some small
patches of pepper. These cultivated tracts
ceased quite suddenly, and we came to a
dense forest of trees, as gigantic as those
seen in Siam, and even more thickly inter-
laced with creepers, parasites, and other
250 A NARRATIVE
plants of the same nature, insomuch that we
found it impossible to penetrate into its
depths, and were compelled to skirt along it
in a westerly direction, in the hope of find-
ing some break in this barrier. After the
lapse of more than an hour we came to a
broken tract of country, with hills from fifty
or sixty to three hundred feet high, all
thickly covered with timber ; but we con-
trived to push in amongst the trees here,
and laboriously work our way southwards.
The growth of the trees in these forests
was rather singular. The branches shot out
from the trunks in a sort of curve, like a
bent bow ; so that whichever way you looked
you seemed to be glancing down a series of
leafy tunnels, many of them crossed from
side to side with a network of creepers so
symmetrical in pattern that it appeared like
the work of human hands. So many were
the impediments in this forest tract that we
could not advance more than a mile an hour,
if so far ; but it was extremely difficult to
make any estimate of the distance actually
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 251
travelled, on account of the slowness of our
advance, and the total absence of any data
to guide us in our calculations. We had
probably not penetrated farther into the
forest than three or four miles when we
were compelled to halt for the night, it
being then seven o'clock in the evening.
Before lighting our watch-fire, we cleared a
few square yards of undergrowth, in order that
there might be no danger of setting fire to the
forest, and in so doing disturbed a large snake
seven feet in length. One of the Chinamen
disabled it by splitting its skull with an axe.
It was apparently a species of boa- constrictor.
The colour of the body was a dingy, yellowish
grey, and along the back were markings of a
chestnut colour. It continued to writhe for
many hours after its head was chopped off.
We did not see many birds in these forests,
except parrots, which were numerous enough.
Monkeys were plentiful in the tree-tops, and
the ground swarmed with small reptiles and
insects. Five different kinds of lizards were
noticed one of them a pretty little creature of
252 A NARRATIVE
a golden-green colour. Of the insects the most
annoying was the never-failing mosquito, and
the most singular a small long-bodied fly. This
fly was about the size of a wasp, in shape
something like that insect, but more elongated
in the body. The colour of the body was a
bright ultramarine blue, with white bands ;
and the wings had a bluish tinge. From
the rear of the abdomen hung two long fila-
ments, an inch and a half in length, which
gave the fly the appearance when flying of a
gnat. It appeared to feed on carrion : for the
body of the dead snake was covered with
them in the morning, and small holes eaten
into the flesh. We also saw it feeding on
a, dead lizard. Their bite was as painful as
that of the mosquito, but they were not so
pertinaciously tormenting as that insect.
MARCH 13. Want of water obliged us
to start very early ; but our progress was
provokingly slow. The density of the foliage
overhead was so great as to nearly exclude
the daylight, and it was scarcely possible to
tell the time without putting the watch close
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 253.
to our eyes. The chattering and screaming
of the monkeys and parrots created quite a
hubbub above ; but they were hid from view
amongst the leaves.
Wending our way amidst the trees, and
crushing through the underwood, was not only
laborious work, but it increased our thirst so-
much that about eleven o'clock, after seven
hours' exertion, we were completely exhausted,
But we could not halt for rest long. Our
sufferings from want of water were intolerable,
and we were obliged to push on in search
of it. It was nearly four o'clock in the after-
noon before we came to a narrow rivulet, over
which we could jump with ease. There Was-
scarcely a foot of water in it, but it supplied
all our wants, though we should have liked
to have taken a bath one of the greatest
luxuries in a warm climate.
This tiny stream seemed to wend its way
through the forest with many windings, and
its course in our opinion was north-east;
though, owing to the impenetrable nature of
the forest, we could not ascertain the direc-
254 A NARRATIVE
tion in which it ran with any degree of
certainty. No fish could be found in it
not even those of the smallest kind, which
are seldom absent from the smallest Asiatic
streams and rivers. This was possibly attri-
butable to the almost total exclusion of light,
for the trees interlaced their branches above,
and this part of the forest was as gloomy
as any other we had passed through.
We encamped for the night near this
rivulet. The whole distance that we had
made during the day could not have been
more than seven or eight miles, though we
had been hard at work for upwards of ten
hours.
MARCH 14. As we advanced the forest
became more impenetrable. After cutting and
pushing our way through the undergrowth
which in most places was fifteen or sixteen
feet in height for five hours, we could not
have covered a greater distance than two miles.
We were then brought to a dead halt by the
thickest and most impenetrable mass of vege-
tation I have ever seen in any of my wander-
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 255
ings. It was useless striving to force a passage
through it. We made the attempt ; but every
pace had to be cleared with, the axe, and in
half an hour we had not got fifty yards.
Under these circumstances we had no alter-
native but to change our route, and we worked
our way in a north-east direction back to the
stream mentioned above. It was evening be-
fore we had accomplished this, and so great
was the gloom of the forest, that, although, it
must still have been tolerably light since the time
showed it was about sunset, it was so dark where
we were that we could scarcely distinguish one
another. With the greatest difficulty we
cleared a space sufficiently large to enable us
to light a small fire ; but that there was great
danger in this may be judged from the fact
that the bushes in the neighbourhood caught
fire and gave us some trouble. Of course had
the flames extended to the trees a fearful con-
flagration would have been the result, in which
we should undoubtedly have perished, since we
could not move out of the way except at the
very slowest pace. We therefore put our fire
256 A NARRATIVE
out, and, lying on the ground round the trunk
of a huge tree, were soon in a sound sleep. The
indulgent reader will excuse me if I go rather
out of my way to make a remark upon sleep.
The sweetest and most refreshing sleep I
have ever enjoyed has been when I was in
positions that most persons would think in the
highest degree uncomfortable and perilous.
The exertions of a hard day's march make a
man oblivious to all danger and discomfort, and
the damp ground is to him as great a luxury
as a feather bed to the languid idler. The
happiest days of my life have been spent in
the depths of an Asiatic forest. I had then no
care or thought for the future. My heart and
mind were free from passions and troubles of
all kinds, for there were no objects to excite
them. The marvellous beauties and wonderful
contrivances of Nature, which were constantly,
and with a never ending change, coming under
my observance, made my life a continual feast
and a frequent occurrence of a spice of danger
prevented monotony. It is true I sometimes
longed for home ; but I now much oftener long
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 257
to feel the weight of a rifle across my shoulder,
and enjoy that free care-for-nought sort of
feeling that possessed my mind when marching
with a firm steady step across the plains, or
forcing my way through the grand old forests
of the far East.
MARCH 15. We tried a fresh mode of
making an advance to-day. It was to march
down the course of the stream in the water
I mean. I have already said that the depth
of the rivulet did not exceed a foot, and
although there was another foot of mud, and
marching in its weedy bed was laborious work,
we got along much faster than when cutting
our way through the undergrowth. In some
places the stream was nearly blocked with
fallen trees, masses of aquatic plants, &c., and
we had often to stop to make our way through
the tunnel of vegetation ; but on the whole we
made quite two miles an hour. The course of
the stream now appeared to be almost due
east ; but the windings were so numerous
that in following it fourteen miles we did not,
I should think, advance eastward more than five
17
258 A NARRATIVE OF TRAVEL AND SPORT.
or six. In this distance its width and depth were
scarcely perceptibly increased. We halted for
the day about four o'clock in the afternoon,
being very wet and weary; but we succeeded in
making a small fire without danger of igniting
the neighbouring brushwood, and soon dried
our clothing.
CHAPTER XIII.
Continuation of our journey through dense forests.
Gigantic fungi. Snakes. Birds' .nests. Exclusion of
the sun's rays from these forests. Our progress south-
' wards. Pass the night in a hollow tre*e. Terrific storm.
Vividness of the lightning. The two Chinamen leave
us. Their probable fate. Suffer from thirst. Difficulties
of our passage through the forest. Intense darkness.
Stream found. Large baboons. Hunger and thirst.
Pleasing circumstance. Springs and pools of water.
Little change in the character of the forest. Dine off
serpents' flesh. Increased difficulties of our journey.
High trees and monkeys. Eeduced to eat small birds.
Elephant shot. Beneficial effects of the excitement.
172
A NARRATIVE OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 261
MARCH 16. We continued pushing our way
down the stream for about twelve miles, when
the depth had increased to nearly two feet,
and in some places three or four feet, which
compelled us to leave its bed.
"We could nowhere form any idea of the
height of the trees in these forests, for the
mass of foliage above our heads was so dense
that we could only see upwards a few feet.
From the sounds of the chattering monkeys
and screaming parrots, we were, however,
convinced that their height in most places was
very great. The trees that had decayed with
age had not room to fall ; and we saw many of
them caught in the boughs of other trees, and
inclining at dangerous angles ; those that were
very rotten threatening every instant to crush
their way down amidst the undergrowth.
Many of the trunks of both living and dead
262 A NARRATIVE
trees were thirty and forty feet in circum-
ference. On those that were decayed gigantic
fungi grew, five or six feet in diameter, of a
pale pink and yellowish hue, and emitting when
broken a highly offensive odour. Few flowers
were seen here, though some of the shrubs of
the undergrowth and a few of the trees bore
blossoms ; but not sufficiently remarkable
for colour and shape to call for particular
description.
Parrots and monkeys, as I have several times
mentioned, were heard in the tree-tops; but
we saw none. Neither were any other animals
met with. The only creatures possessing life
that we saw were lizards, frogs in the stream,
a few small birds ranging in size from the
bulk of a sparrow to that of a thrush, and in-
sects. In crushing through the brushwood,
we also disturbed numerous snakes, most of
them of small size. One species was prettily
variegated with black and white ; its length
being a foot or fifteen inches.
Although so few birds were seen, we found
several nests. One was skilfully hid in a mass
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 263
of creepers, and only discovered by accident.
It was constructed with vegetable fibres in a
beautiful symmetrical shape, and lined with what
we felt pretty sure was elephant hair.* There
were five eggs in the nest, which were a pale
blue in colour covered with brown, black, and
purple zigzag markings. Another nest that
we found was built entirely of the hair of some
animal, apparently of the feline order from
its softness, and contained seven eggs, pure
white in colour, faintly spotted with red.
The rays of the sun cannot penetrate into
the depths of these forests. We knew that
it must be shining brightly in the heavens
above ; but we had only twilight, and could
see no object distinctly that was at a greater
distance than four or five yards : indeed we
seemed to be living in a region of perpetual
evening, for we had just about as much light
as is usual in this country at eight o'clock at
night.
The atmosphere was warm and close, and
* The body of the elephant is sparsely covered with
coarse hair.
264 A NARRATIVE
though the sighing of the wind in the tree-
tops was nearly constantly audible, we never
felt the least breeze below. When taking
active exercise, such as marching or clearing
a way through the underwood, we suffered
considerably from want of air, experiencing an
uncomfortable difficulty in breathing, such as
is felt in a close, warm room.
MARCH 17. We again attempted to march
southwards, and this time with some success,
though our progress was tediously slow,
averaging perhaps a mile an hour, not more.
The excessive hard work additionally onerous
on account of the packages of provisions and
other stores we were carrying with us was
beginning to tell seriously upon all of us*
We had lost flesh and strength during our late
exertions, and after six or seven hours' exer-
tion felt quite exhausted. We were obliged
to halt frequently and for long intervals ; and
were further weakened by want of a sufficient
quantity of food ; for we were compelled to be
very economical in this respect, our supplies
being limited. We had hoped to find game to
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 265
furnish us with fresh meat ; but hitherto we had
not met with any wild animals save monkeys,
and these latter, though eatable and even
palatable, were out of sight in the tops of the
trees, and could not be shot.
We passed the night in the hollowed
trunk of a rotten tree, which would have
accommodated a party twice as numerous as
ours. Often have I slept in a similar billet,
for the huge hollow trees found in all Indian
forests provide excellent shelter from the
dews, which often fall so thickly as to wet
one through as if a heavy shower of rain had
fallen.
Shortly after midnight we had a tremen-
dous storm of thunder and lightning, the
lightning shining with great brilliancy, even
in the depths of this gloomy forest ; and we
could easily imagine how blinding it must
have been in an unsheltered spot. The claps
of thunder were appalling, the very earth
seeming to quake at each report. At inter-
vals there was a lull, when a strong wind
appeared to be blowing, the trees rustling
266 A NARRATIVE
with a moaning, mournful sound. Occasionally
the terrified birds and monkeys chattered in a
low tone, and about three o'clock in the
morning we ourselves were terrified by the
electric fluid striking a tree near to us. The
noise was deafening, and the smell of scorched
wood and sulphurous odours nearly suffocat-
ing. For the instant that the forest was
illuminated by this thunder-bolt, the sight
was awfully grand. The leaves, berries, and
runners of the creepers were visible much
more distinctly than during the day-time,
and the whole mass of luxuriant foliage ap-
peared to be enveloped in the most brilliant
fire. From the sounds amongst the leaves
overhead, we fancied that a little rain fell ;
but none of the drops reached us. About
four o'clock the storm ceased, and an hour
later we were on the march.
MARCH 18. From five o'clock in the morn-
ing till seven at night we were, with the
exception of a few intervals for rest, working
our way through the forest, the character of
which is in nowise changed. Myself and
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 267
Captain Lacj agreed that in that space of
time we had not got over more than three
or four miles of ground, our course being
south by west. Thoroughly exhausted, we
threw ourselves on the ground with our
blankets wrapped round us, and slept until
the first rays of gloomy light appeared the
following morning.
MARCH 19. While we were preparing to
resume our journey, the two Chinamen,
Yang-li and Shu-anno, began to mutiny, re-
fusing to proceed any farther, and demanding
that we should turn back towards Patani
immediately. Of course we refused positively,
and one of the men became so insolent that
Lacy knocked him down. We could not,
however, reduce these fellows to obedience,
and they declared they would not advance
another step. They seized on a portion of the
provisions and attempted to turn back with
it. A revolver pointed at their heads com-
pelled them to drop the provisions, but we
could not, of course, put any restraint upon
their liberty without resorting to unjustifiable
268 A NARRATIVE
means, and they left us, declaring their inten-
tion of going back to Patani. For half an hour
we could hear them breaking through the
brushwood, and talking to each other in a
loud tone of voice ; but these sounds gradu-
ally died away as distance increased between
us. We never heard or saw anything more of
these two Chinamen. We halted for about
three hours, in the hope that they would
alter their minds and come back ; but they
did not, and we resumed our journey. In
consequence of this diminution in our num-
bers, we were under the necessity of loading
ourselves with an extra burden ; and some
of our stores had also to be abandoned. A
quantity of shot, two canisters of powder,
one hundred rounds of rifle ammunition, a
cooking kettle, six pounds of biscuit, and a
tin of preserved meat were left in a hollow
tree, so that if we were compelled to retreat
we might have a chance of recovering our
property uninjured by exposure to the changes
of the weather. This was a serious loss to
us, especially as we were short of provisions.
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 269
The disaffection was confined to the two
Chinamen. Laoo and Akbar shared all our
hardships with great patience ; and the Malay
sailor, Saja, was a quiet, obedient man, seldom
speaking unless spoken to, and never com-
plaining or making any observation about the
hardness of his fare.
Our party, reduced to five in number, and
having an extra burden amongst them, got
along more slowly. We certainly did not
travel more than three miles during the day,
and perhaps a much less distance. Our fatigue
was very great, as besides exerting great
strength to force our way through the tangled
mass of creepers and undergrowth, we were
almost continually using the axe ; so that
when we had lain down a few minutes for
rest we became quite stiff and sore. In
making our way through these forests, we
were obliged constantly to have recourse to
the compass for guidance.
When we halted for the night, we fired
several shots, and shouted loudly at short
intervals, to attract the attention of the absent
270 A NARRATIVE
Chinamen, in case they should be trying to
make their way back to us. But no answering
shout greeted our ears, and I very much fear
that these men met with a dreadful fate. They
may possibly have found their way back to
Patani ; but it is far more probable that they
perished of hunger before they reached the
outskirts of the forest.
MARCH 20. From eight o'clock in the morn-
ing till six at night we were continuously
working our way through the forest. The
water we carried with us was exhausted, and
we suffered extreme thirst. Each man had a
wooden keg slung across his shoulder, capable
of containing two quarts of liquid. In these
warm climates, especially when engaged in
active work, a man requires at least four quarts
of drink per day. We had been obliged to
make two quarts for each man last three days;
so that some idea of our terrible plight may be
conceived. We did indeed obtain a little mois-
ture by cutting some parasitical vines, which
yielded a yellowish fluid that was in a great
measure satisfying and even strengthening ;
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 271
but it took hours to collect a pint of this
liquid. A kind of red berry grew amongst
the underwood, and, being assured by the
Malay, Saja, that they were not poisonous, we
chewed them constantly for the sake of the
moisture they contained.
A new trouble also came upon us. The
edges of our axes were so blunted by constant
use, that we were compelled to exert additional
force to cut away the bushes and tangled plants.
This delayed us so much that we did not ad-
vance more than five miles throughout the day,,
notwithstanding our extra exertions.
During the night the darkness was intense,,
and the heat hardly endurable. The lightning
was almost continuous ; but there was no thun-
der. In the intervals between the flashes of
light, we could not even see each other's outline.
Our thirst was so tormenting that could we
have seen our way we should have moved off in
search of water.
MARCH 21. The dim light began to shine, or
rather glimmer, down upon us between three
and four o'clock, and we commenced our day's
272 A NARRATIVE
labour, being almost too ill and exhausted to
move.
How far we advanced in the next five hours
it is quite impossible to tell : probably not two
miles. But, to our extreme joy, we then came
to a stream about thirty or forty feet wide, and
containing four feet of water. It required great
self-control on the part of Lacy and myself to
refrain from drinking an excessive quantity of
water. We could not restrain our attendants,
and they all three drank more than their
stomachs would contain.
While suffering from thirst we had felt no
desire for food, and had eaten but little ; but
now we were all ravenously hungry, and I served
out about a pound and a half of biscuit to each
man, and divided the contents of a tin of pre-
served meat amongst us. Towards night a
monkey was seen above our heads, and brought
down by Captain Lacy. It provided us with
what we thought a delicious supper.
MARCH 22. Of course the stream was easily
fordable, and we crossed it about six o'clock
in the morning. No fish could be seen in it,
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 273
and above its bed the trees met and interlaced
their branches in a dark, leafy arch, so that
not a glimpse of the sky could be obtained.
Indeed, from the moment we entered this
gloomy forest we have not seen the least
patch of the blue heavens above us, and there
is something in our monotonous position that
is causing us to feel dreadfully dull and
melancholy at this continued imprison-
ment amongst a never ending thicket of
trees.
MARCH 23. We were compelled to use all
the water we had brought with us from the
stream. We imagine we have covered six
miles of ground this day, and perhaps about
the same yesterday. Our provisions are get-
ting so short that we are obliged to place
ourselves upon a very scanty allowance.
While crushing through the undergrowth
we surprised two large baboons, apparently a
male and female. They were between four
and five feet in height, and when disturbed
pulled themselves up into the trees with great
rapidity. The colour of the hair on their bodies
18
274 A NARRATIVE
was black, but about the crown and back of
the head of a reddish rust colour.
MARCH 2-4. Water was plentiful to-day, for
two brooks were found within a few miles of
each other. Neither of them was of greater
depth than a few inches, and their breadth was
not more than four or five yards. We were so
fortunate as to shoot two monkeys, and
strengthened with their meat and the abun-
dance of water, we succeeded in covering
about eight miles. We fancied that the forest
in places was rather less dense, a circumstance
that spurred us on to renewed exertion.
MARCH 25. Five miles at the most was
the distance got over to-day. The thermometer
registered 107 in the shade in this gloomy
region ; so it may easily be imagined that we
suffered no little inconvenience from the heat.
Our fatigue and weakness were so great that
we were under the necessity of halting every
hour or so.
MARCH 26. No drink, to-day except the
juice of vines and berries. No idea of the
distance traversed, but certainly not more than
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 275
a few miles. We keep a due south course.
The character of the ground up to this time
has been undulating ; it is now hilly, which
makes marching much more laborious. We
can form no calculation of the height of the
hillSj as our view of them is entirely hid by the
trees, and we only know that we are ascending
them by the sharp angle of the ground under
our feet. Our provisions are now reduced to
eight pounds of biscuit. Matters wore a dark
aspect, and death by starvation or thirst seems
by no means improbable.
We saw another pair of large apes to-day.
The female had a young one in her arms, which
clung round her neck when she climbed a tree
to escape from us. We did not attack these
creatures, as they were too human -like in
appearance for us to think of making a meal off
their flesh.
MARCH 27. Several pleasing circumstances
occurred to-day. Shortly after we had started
from our halting- place, half dead with thirst,
we came to a small break in the forest, and
obtained a glimpse of the clear blue sky over
IS 2
NARRATIVE
our heads. The sun was shining down brightly,,
and for a time we were quite dazzled with the
unusual light. This break in the density of the
forest was caused by a large mass of rock, from
which three springs of beautifully clear water
sprang, and emptied themselves into a large
pool at its base. On the margin of this pool,,
which was oval in shape and about two hundred
yards in circumference, we discovered the foot-
marks of some animals of the deer kind ; and
our hopes of obtaining a supply of flesh were
raised so high that we remained here all day
confident of getting a shot towards evening.
But we were disappointed. No deer or other
animals came near the water.
On the east side the pool had an outlet a
small rivulet running eastward through the
forest. The three springs spoken of above were
situated at a height of about four feet from the
surface of the pool, the water gushing out from
the rock with considerable force. They were
not more than a yard apart.
MARCH 28. Continuing our course south,
we found little change in the appearance of
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 277
the forest. We constantly met with the same
kinds of gigantic trees, and the same scarcely
penetrable undergrowth, and in the space of
ten hours did not advance more than six or
seven miles. I do not describe minutely our
daily experiences, as there is a monotony in
them which I fear must be wearisome to the
reader. I record only the leading and most
noteworthy facts. At the conclusion of this
day we had only three small biscuits left.
MARCH 29. We found water to-day ; but
suffered the pangs of hunger so severely, that
we were compelled to shoot the few small
birds we saw for the sake of the scanty meal
they afforded us. We only obtained seven of
these little birds, four of which were no bigger
than sparrows.
MARCH 30. Want forced us to put up
with very loathsome fare. We killed and
cooked a large serpent, five feet . in length. It
was fat and well tasted ; but under any other
circumstances I should probably have turned
from such food with the greatest disgust. We
struck a stream to-day, the course of which
278 A NARRATIVE
was south-east. For the sake of having a
constant supply of water we pushed along its
banks, and occasionally where the water was
shallow marched in its bed. In this way we
made about ten miles in nine hours' marching,
with a few short intervals for rest. This wa&
about the best day's work we have done since
entering the forest. Throughout the night
thunder and lightning very severe.
MARCH 31. Continued to move south-east,
following the stream. Suffered most acutely
from hunger. We were very glad to eat the
berries which we found, and the flesh of two
or three small snakes. A few birds were also
shot ; but the scarcity of all sorts of animal
life in these forests is remarkable. We do not
now often hear the screaming of parrots and
chattering of monkeys.
APRIL 1. We had the good fortune to see
and shoot three monkeys this morning ; and.
later in the day a fourth was obtained. The
forest is becoming more open, and in places we
catch a glimpse of the sky. The trees are of
tremendous height -- considerably more than
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 279
two hundred feet. We saw several small
colonies of monkeys near the tops ; but they were
far out of effective range of shot, and were too
lively in their movements for good rifle practice.
Two of the four mentioned above were, how-
ever, killed with bullets. We saw some foot-
marks of deer near the water, and attempted
to stalk the animals, but failed.
APKIL 2. The course of the stream inclined
so much to the east that we could no longer
follow it. It was now thirty or forty yards broad,
and rather deep, but we did not take any
measurement of its depth. We made a direct
turn to the west, our intention being to cross
the Peninsula to the west coast, and make our
way to Province Wellesley as speedily as pos-
sible : for the difficulties and sufferings we had
endured had sickened us of this country,
especially as we had obtained literally no
sport.
To-day again we suffered severely from want
of food. Only two monkeys and seven or eight
small birds were shot, and we were compelled
to eke out our scanty meals with such snakes
280 A NARRATIVE
as we could capture. The country is hilly, and
though still densely clothed with forests of
gigantic trees, not so impenetrable as hitherto.
We can see the sky in most places a sight
that is quite new to us. We contrived, in
spite of our weakness and miserable fare, to
advance fully ten miles in the course of the
day.
APRIL 3. Our march this day was about
eight miles, and would have been longer, but
that we had the fortune to fall in with a herd
of elephants. Notwithstanding my reso]ution
upon a former occasion to take no part in the
slaughter of these sagacious animals, hunger
overcame all my scruples, and I fired the first
shot.
The elephants had taken very little notice
of our approach, and we got to within twenty
paces of them before delivering our fire. We
both aimed at one beast, and when the poor
creature felt itself struck, it screamed as if
much terrified; and two of its companions placing
their shoulders against it, one on either side,
attempted to help it away. We had to follow
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 281
pretty fast to keep up with, them, and several
times nearly lost sight of the herd amongst the
trees. Whenever we could get near enough,
we blazed away at the wounded beast; and
.probably because we could not get a fair aim
at any vital part, expended nearly forty rounds
of ammunition before it fell. It then required
another shot or two to finish it off. The rest
of the herd continued their flight after the fall
of their comrade, and we let them go in peace,
being quite satisfied with our success.
It is surprising what a beneficial effect this
little adventure had upon us. The dull, melan-
choly, hopeless feeling that the monotonous
gloom of the forest had engendered, vanished
before the excitement of the moment, and when
partaking of our supper of elephant-flesh, we
were quite cheerful. New hope took possession
of our breasts, and we lay down to sleep in a
more comfortable state of mind than we had
enjoyed for a week or two past.
CHAPTER XIV.
The forest less dense. A herd of elephants seen. Longer
march than usual. Small pool of water. Two deer
obtained. Our view of the surrounding country limited.
Handsome parrot. Trees met with here. Spring.
Tiring detours. Our bed. Decide to make for Province
Wellesley. Chain of mountains in sight. Flights of
birds going southwards. Halt on summit of hills.
Discovery of tree-huts of wild men. Thorn creepers.
Wild men. Their appearance and manners. A girl
captured. The tree-huts. Articles found in them.
Description of our captive. Small river. Deer and ante-
lope shot. Guard kept during the night.
A NARRATIVE OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 285
APRIL 4. We left the huge carcass of the ele-
phant about eight o'clock this morning, taking
with us as much of the flesh as we could carry
conveniently. We had no salt with which to
cure it ; but had exposed it to the rays of the
sun until quite dry, and hoped it would keep as
long as we should want it to.
The forest more open than we had seen it at
all before. In some few places there were
glades two or three hundred yards in extent ;.
but occasionally the forest was so dense as to
be almost impassable. The majority of the
trees are of very great height. Monkeys and
parrots harbour in them, but are not numerous,
and few other birds are seen. A herd of ele-
phants was seen early in the afternoon, and we
passed quite close to them, but did not molest
them.
By dint of considerable exertion we managed
A NARRATIVE
to cover about thirteen or fourteen miles of
ground, much of which was very hilly. This long
march exhausted us so much that we did not
resume our journey until the middle of the follow-
ing day. Our sufferings through want of water
were again intense, and when on the 5th we
discovered a small pool of brackish water, we
were scarcely able to walk.
This pool was deep, and about a hundred
yards across. Its shape was nearly circular,
and as we could find no means by which it
was fed, we came to the conclusion that it had
been filled during the rainy season, and not yet
evaporated. The water was palatable enough
to men in our condition ; but it possessed a
peculiar, sickly taste, that certainly would have
led us to avoid it in disgust at ordinary times.
It would seem that wild animals had no anti-
pathy to it, for traces of deer were found all
round the margin, and at sunset we shot two of
a very pretty and graceful species, and weigh-
ing, at a rough guess, about sixty or seventy
pounds each. No circumstance that had
occurred since we had been in the country
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 287
gave us more pleasure than the shooting of
these deer. For not only did they furnish us
with a much needed supply of good fresh meat,
but we were also encouraged to hope that they
were the harbingers of a tract of country better
stocked with game than that which we had
-passed through. ,
APKIL 6. We found the forest now so open
as to offer little impediment to our progress;
still the face of the country was covered with
it, and in consequence our view of the sur-
rounding landscape was very limited. Ranges
of hills, varying much in elevation, ran from
about north-west to south-east ; the highest of
these being, perhaps, five or six hundred feet.
In places the ascent was steep enough to ca^use
us to feel rather tremulous about the knees ;
but this was due, undoubtedly, in a great
.measure, to our weak condition.
During the day we saw five herds of ele-
:phants, numbering from twenty to forty per
herd. Besides these we saw a solitary elephant
^ quietly browsing amongst the trees. We did
.not disturb any of them, having no need of
288 A NARRATIVE
meat. No other animals of any description
were found except, indeed, a few monkeys. A
parrot that was shot is worthy of note, as
neither myself nor Captain Lacy had ever seen
one like it before, and it may probably be un-
known to European naturalists. The colour of
the back, head, wings, and tail, was a deep
green ; the wings were marked slightly near
the edges with crimson. The breast was yellow,
each feather being slightly edged with red.
The beak was larger than is usual in most
parrots.
The areca, teak, banyan, and some other trees
common to India were seen occasionally ; but
by far the greater number of trees met with
were of species which we are unable to name.
Many of them, however, were of kinds fre-
quently seen in Burmah and Siam. Palms of
different sorts were plentiful, and we obtained a
great many cocoa-nuts, which afforded a de-
licious refreshment the more acceptable as
water was scarce.
About three o'clock in the afternoon we
altered our course again to due south, marching
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 289
in the wooded valley between two ranges of
hills. We continued our march till eight
o'clock, in the hope of meeting with water. "We
were disappointed ; but cocoa-nuts were so
abundant that we had no difficulty in satisfying
our thirst. It is worthy of remark that no
cocoa-nut trees were seen in the dense forest-
covered region from which we appear now,
happily, to have escaped.
APRIL 7. Three hours after starting we dis-
covered several springs of water, the sources of
rivulets running west by south. One welled
up from the earth in the valley the others
(four in number) sprang from the rocky sides
of the hills. They all yielded deliciously
refreshing water.
Though the forests here were tolerably open,
and the undergrowth not at all troublesome, w r e
were compelled to make so many detours to
avoid dense patches of vegetation, and met with
so many impediments in the shape of rocky,
broken, and hilly ground, that though we
inarched diligently for ten hours we did not
cover more than sixteen miles in a line direct
19
290 A NARRATIVE
south ; but had probably tramped twenty-four,
reckoning the windings. We were very tired
when a halt was called, and slept soundly during
the night.
Our bed was invariably the earth, our pillows
the packages we carried with us. When we
could find a commodious hollow tree, that
appeared to be free from dangerous insects,
such as centipedes, scorpions, snakes, &c., we
usually chose it as our resting-place ; at other
times we were content with arranging a bed of
grass, &c., on the bare earth, over which we
spread our blankets, and then wrapped in our
cloaks would obtain sleep that was generally
both sound and refreshing. During the whole
time of our stay in this wild country, we had
to content ourselves with billets of this kind.
APRIL 8. Before resuming our journey this
morning we held a consultation whether we
should continue to move southwards, or make
for the nearest port on the coast, with a view of
giving up our explorations of the country. We
were rather undecided on this point; but deter-
mined at length that we would march south-
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 291
wards one day more, and if the country did not
afford us some encouragement to proceed, in the
shape of a tolerably plentiful supply of water
and game, we wou]d cross over to Province
Wellesley without further delay.
This resolution formed, we marched from our
ground about ten o'clock, finding the country
much the same in character as that already de-
scribed. When our view of the surrounding
country was not intercepted by tall trees or
hills, we could see lofty ranges to the westward,
rising ridge above ridge. Through a glass thesa
mountains (or at least those nearest to us) ap-
peared to be covered to their summits with
trees.
Soon after mid-day we saw two storks flying
south by east, and shortly afterwards a flock of
some small birds passed over our heads, going
in the same direction. These latter birds, we
fancied, were ibises, and thought it likely that
there was some large body of water to the south-
east. We accordingly altered our course in the
hope of finding it.
We found fewer impediments in our way than
192
292 A NARRATIVE
usual, and by two o'clock in the afternoon had
marched about twelve miles. We then halted
on the summit of a hill, which, according to a
small aneroid we had with us, we thought to be
about five hundred and fifty feet above sea level.
Far in the valley beneath us, to the southward,
we were rejoiced with the sight of the largest
stream we had yet seen in the country. We
judged it to be about eight miles distant, and
only a few glimpses of it could be obtained when
there were breaks in the forest which hid its
course. While searching the country in the
neighbourhood of this river, through our glasses,
our notice was attracted by what seemed to be
some enormous birds' nests in the trees. The
size of these nests was prodigious, yet they were
not placed at a very great height from the
ground, nor in the tallest trees. The number
of them was seven, but we concluded there were
others not visible from our position. We were
puzzled to think what bird could construct nests
of this size, for they appeared from our point of
view to be as big as tolerably- sized huts, and
much the shape of roughly-constructed wig-
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 293
warns. While we were still speculating, the
difficulty was solved. A large ape was observed
to leave one of the nests and descend to the
ground ; and he was soon followed by eight or
nine others, who all walked about erect like men.
We watched them for a long time, and saw them
picking berries or something else of a similar
kind, from the bushes. Their actions were most
human-like. They walked about exactly like
men, and even appeared to be talking to each
other. Several of them climbed the cocoa-palms
in search of the nuts ; but they did not display
that activity in ascending which distinguishes
most of the ape tribe. Their every motion
wasjiurnan in the extreme.
Greatly astonished, we commenced to descend
into the valley about four o'clock, and make our
way^towards the river. The ground was rough,
and overgrown with a sort of creeping thorn
plant, which retarded our progress so much
that we were obliged to give up all thoughts
of reaching the river that night. These thorn
creepers were most troublesome. The thorns
found their way through the worn soles of our
294 A NARRATIVE
boots ; and our feet and legs were soon full of
them ; and not only were the pricks painful, but
they also caused a considerable amount of in-
flammation.
APRIL 9. We were on the move early as we
were in want of water. It took us an hour to
get over a mile and a half of the thorn-covered
ground ; but after that we had a tolerably good
country covered with forest. A little before
seven o'clock we came in sight of the apes' nests.
Nine of the apes were on the ground, and re-
mained oblivious of our approach until we were
close upon them. I was almost dumbfounded
with astonishment when we discovered that
these supposed apes were men. There could be
no mistake about it. The form of the feet and
hands, and the hair of their heads, proved
beyond a doubt that they were of the same
species as ourselves ; but how degenerated ! I
had heard of the wild men of Malaya, but had
not expected to find them in this part of the
country, and the sight filled me with the most
intense astonishment.
The pitiable objects before us were completely
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 295
naked, both men and women. The colour of
their skins was very dark, nearly black : indeed,
some persons would probably have described
them as black men. Their stature was under-
sized, the height of the men being about five
feet two or three inches, that of the women five
feet, or perhaps rather less. Their hair was
allowed to grow long, and hung about their
heads and necks in a tangled mass of filth ;
giving them the appearance of having dispropor-
tionably large heads. Their limbs and bodies
appeared to be smeared with dirt, and their
whole appearance was disgusting. In coun-
tenance they were not repulsive, though I need
scarcely say they were far from good-looking ;
but their expression was idiotic in the highest
degree, and whilst looking at them I could not
wonder much that some have classed the most
noble of God's creatures with the ape tribe.
So intent were they upon digging up roots of
some kind, that, screened by the bushes, we
approached to within forty yards of them, and
remained watching them for nearly a quarter of
an hour before we were discovered. A sneeze
296 A NARRATIVE
from Laoo first attracted their attention. For
one instant they stood as if paralysed with
astonishment, then, setting up a shrill scream,
ran away at a pace that took them out of sight
amongst the trees in a minute or two.
The scream alarmed those who were in the
hut or nest in the trees, and they commenced
to swarm down to the ground like a lot of mon-
keys. One woman, in her haste, fell a distance
of ten or twelve feet, and before she could rise
we had hold of her. The rest effected their
escape, disappearing in the woods.
The woman we had captured howled most
piteously and fought desperately, biting a piece
clean out of Akbar's arm. She did not appear
to be hurt by her fall ; but was evidently terri-
fied to find herself in our clutches. Saja, by our
direction, tried to make her comprehend that
no injury would be done to her; but we saw
1 at once she did not understand a word he spoke.
She was quite a girl, being apparently about
seventeen or eighteen years of age. As she
continued to struggle violently, and strove hard
to use her teeth, we bound my lady hand and
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 297
foot, but as gently as possible, and did our best
to reconcile her to a temporary bondage.
Leaving the three men to guard her and pre-
vent a rescue, we went to examine the nests or
tree-huts. They were from thirty to fifty feet
from the ground, built in the lower branches of
a species of large, wide- spreading tree, in general
appearance very much like the oak. Access to
them was gained by a number of notches cut in
the tree-trunk; but we, being novices in the art
of climbing, found it no easy task to ascend.
Several times we lost our precarious footing and
had narrow escapes of coming headlong to the
ground, and when we got amongst the branches,
we had to crawl out snake-fashion, to get at the
huts, which were the shape of a bee-hive, though
rather more pointed at the apex. They were
constructed entirely of small branches and twigs
tied together at the top and bent round to form
the hollow space in the interior. The height
of each hut was about six feet; the internal
diameter about the same. The entrance was
a hole in the side, so small that we could
scarcely force our way in. All that we found
298 A NARRATIVE
within the huts was a quantity of leaves, which
seemed to serve as a bed ; some bones, the re-
mains of a meal ; a curious instrument made of
bone, and apparently intended to serve as a
knife; and a sort of tomahawk, formed by fixing
a pointed stone upon a stick. The cordage with
which the huts were constructed was made of
some tough creeper, and the strands were so
loosely twisted together that the least touch
parted them. Outside the huts a number of
spears were laid amongst the branches of the
trees. They consisted merely of long sticks of
hard wood sharpened at both ends.
Underneath the trees in which the nests
were built, we found the horns of deer and
charred bones, proving that these people had
been making a meal of animals of this kind.
Several fires were still smouldering, and we
found roots roasting amongst the embers. The
roots that these people had been digging up
with sticks when we disturbed them, lay in
heaps upon the ground ; and were similar to
beet-root in appearance, but of a lighter red in
colour. The plant which they nourish grows
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 299
to a height of six or seven feet, and bears a
large green, apple- like fruit, of a nauseous taste.
All the time that we had been making these
notes, our captive had been alternately crying
and screaming, yet we were so anxious to com-
municate with these strange people that we were
unwilling to let her go ; being convinced that
if we could induce her by kind treatment to be
friendly with us, we might easily induce the
others to be less shy and fearful of us. With
this end in view we unbound her hands and
feet, but made her sit upon the ground and
kept a sharp watch upon her. She was already
less violent in her conduct, and now made na
attempts to bite. By-the-by, she had fetched
a piece out of Akbar's arm the size of a crown,
piece, and the wound afterwards festered badly
as though it had been inflicted by the foul
teeth of a wild beast. By way of amusing her,
we gave her a few silver coins and some other
trifles to play with. They attracted her atten-
tion immediately, and she left off crying tc*
examine them. The silver sixpences, and a
few brass buttons that had come off my uniform
A NARRATIVE
jacket, especially took her fancy, and she
rapidly became reconciled to our society. In
the course of two or three hours she had be-
come quite contented, and manifested no desire
to make her escape ; but we were much dis-
appointed to find that her companions showed
no signs of returning, though possibly they
were hiding in the woods near at hand and
waiting for our departure.
Meantime we had been down to the river
distant about half a mile, and found that it
was from sixty to eighty yards wide. Its
course was from north-west to south-east ;
but we could not trace it more than a few
hundred yards, either above or below stream.
Its banks were clothed on both sides with a
thick forest growth, and creepers ran across
from tree to tree, forming aerial bridges, over
which the monkeys ran with great nimbleness.
In many places the trees met over its waters,
and where the banks were clear of t timber there
were abundant traces that it had been burnt
down. We saw a great many small fish in the
shallow parts of this river.
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 301
Finding that the inhabitants of the tree-huts
gave no indications of an intention to return
to their homes while we remained in the neigh-
bourhood, we gave our captive her liberty,
thinking she would go to her people and show
them that she had been kindly treated ; but
when she found that it was not our intention
to keep her a prisoner, she evinced no desire ta
leave us. We tried by signs to make her
understand that we wanted her to fetch some
of her people, but without success. She chatted
incessantly in a rude, guttural language that
sounded like a series of grunts, and was evi-
dently vexed that she could not make herself
understood. When we cooked a little dried
venison she ate her share of it, and fetched
some of the roots mentioned above, which she
roasted and held out to us. We tried them
and found that they had a pleasant mealy taste,
and were probably highly nutritious.
To induce these queer people to come back to
their huts we removed ourselves to the banks
of the river, followed by our ex- captive; and
during the afternoon searched amongst the
3 02 A NARRATIVE
woods near the water for game, A herd of
about ninety small deer or antelopes were found
grazing amidst a patch of thorn-creepers, of
which plant they appeared to be very fond.
We fired amongst them, killing two ; and at
the report of our rifles our savage companion
displayed the most abject terror. She screamed
with fright, and would have fled had not Lacy
caught hold of her. We soon succeeded in
pacifying her in some degree ; but her teeth
chattered and her knees trembled for an hour
afterwards, and if in moving our rifles we
advanced them near her she cowered behind in
great alarm. She examined the deer also,
pushing her fingers into the bullet-holes, and
uttering exclamations of astonished wonder-
ment.
The deer or antelope (I believe they properly
belonged to the latter species) which we had
shot were both males, and weighed about
eighty pounds each. They had been feeding on
the thorn- plant, and their mouths were pricked
and bleeding ; but animals of the deer kind, and
also rhinoceros, seem to be very fond of thorns,
' OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 303
and to have no objection to the laceration of
the mouth which the spiny food produces.
Evening came on ; but none of the wild men
made their appearance, and our savage friend
made it apparent that she had no intention of
leaving us. When we made preparations for pass-
ing the night she coolly appropriated one of the
blankets, and imitating ourselves wrapt herself
in it, and appeared to fully enjoy the luxury.
Not knowing but that a surprise might be
attempted, we kept guard in turns all night ;
and several times heard the wild men prowling
about near us. We did not, however, see any-
thing of them, and they made no demonstration
of an attack.
CHAPTER XV.
Our captive's appetite. Succeed in communicating with the
wild men. Their degraded state and morals. Numbers.
Mode of procuring fire. Resume our journey. Our
captive anxious to go with us. Proceed up the river.
More dense forests. A white peacock. Appearance of
the range. Pool or lake. Find a couple of tapirs and
shoot one. Description of the animal. Valleys with
pools. More tree-huts, and traces of supposed cannibal-
ism. Country difficult of access. Another colony of
wild men. Find it impossible to communicate with them.
20
A NARRATIVE OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 307
AT daylight on the morning of the 10th
April we had breakfast, our savage lady friend
displaying a prodigious appetite. She consumed
at least ten or twelve pounds of roast deer
flesh.
After a bath in the river we went to the
tree-huts, which were distant about a mile. As
we neared them we observed a large party of
the wild men drawn up under the trees. They
showed some inclination to fly at first, but our
girl ran up to her companions and appeared to
explain that we were friendly, upon which they
came and surrounded us, staring at ourselves,
our arms, and accoutrements with an expression
of stupid wonderment.
It was impossible to gaze upon these poor
wretches without a feeling of intense pity at
their miserable condition. So degraded and
abject were they that one might almost be
202
3 oS A NARRATIVE
excused for saying they were only one degree
removed from the ape tribe. Both men and
women were entirely devoid of clothing, and
most of the latter betrayed evidences of having
been treated with revolting brutality. Their
bodies were covered with sores and bruises, and
smeared with blood ; and even in our presence
the men struck them fiercely if they attempted
to push too near to us ; and the poor girl with
whom we had become so friendly kept between
myself and Lacy as if she expected violence.
The persons of all these people were dis-
gustingly filthy, and infested with vermin ; and
not even the rudiments of morality seemed to
exist amongst them. Moreover, we had good
reason for coming to the conclusion that wed-
lock, in any form, was not recognised by them ;
and, indeed, in their manners they were even
more degraded and lost to a sense of decency
than the lowest orders of the animal creation.
It is impossible to say more than this.
The number of these deplorably savage people
standing around us was sixty-nine, of whom five
were children, two of them being infants at the
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 309
breast. Forty-eight were women, and sixteen
only men, which led us to think that some of
the males were absent on a hunting, or some
other expedition. Their physique was miserable,
the limbs of the men being scarcely larger than
those of boys, and the poor women were emaci-
ated to a terrible degree. To convince them of
our friendly intentions we gave them the re-
mains of the two deer we had shot yesterday.
They lit fires immediately and proceeded to cook
the flesh, squatting on the ground until it was
done. Their method of procuring fire was by
rubbing two pieces of dry rotten wood together
till they ignited.
Between nine and ten o'clock we resumed our
journey. Our departure was not noticed by
the savages. They scarcely even looked round
after us ; but the girl with whom we had first
communicated got up and followed us. We
motioned to her to go back, and she in turn
tried by gestures to induce us to return to her
people ; she even caught hold of Lacy by the
arm. She had manifested a particular liking
for him, and seemed very unwilling to part from
310 A NARRATIVE
him. When she had accompanied us about two
miles, finding that we were determined to go
on, she suddenly turned back without displaying
the least emotion. Once or twice she looked
back as if undecided whether to leave us or
not ; but we hurried on lest she should take it
into her head to favour us with her company
farther on our journey than would be altogether
agreeable. In a few minutes her form was lost
amongst the trees.
We marched up the stream that is in a
north-westerly direction, keeping as near its
banks as possible ; but we were frequently
obliged to make wide detours to avoid dense
forest patches and marshy ground near the
river. Westward, the ranges of hills were fully
visible, and as we advanced, the country became
so elevated that the course of the river was
altered, and it now flowed from almost due
north. Its breadth at the point where the bend
took place was about sixty yards ; but a mile
higher up it was reduced to thirty, and in
fording it we only found four feet of water.
Marching westward, the country rapidly be-
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 311
came mountainous, being well covered with
forests, inhabited by monkeys, parrots, crows,
and pea-fowl. The last named has not been seen
in this country before by us ; and it is not very
plentiful. In addition to these birds, pigeons
are very numerous, especially in the hilly tracts ;
and we shot between thirty and forty as we
marched along. In the evening we halted in
the midst of a wood which was free from under-
growth, and here we found many deer, in small
herds of from a dozen to twenty or thirty each.
Three fine bucks were obtained.
APRIL 11. "We were all day forcing our way
through a forest tract, almost as dense as that
met with at the commencement of our journey.
Unlike that dreadful region, however, this
country was fairly stocked with game ; for,
besides a few deer, we saw in the course of the
day nearly a hundred elephants, four rhino-
ceroses, and abundance of monkeys, parrots,
pigeons, and other birds. In the tops of the
tallest trees a few pea-fowl harboured, and a
white one was seen and shot. This was the first
time I had seen a white peacock in a wild state.
312 A NARRATIVE
The distance travelled this day was not more
than seven or eight miles, and when we halted
for the night we were between five and six
hundred feet above sea-level. Westward was
a range of lofty mountains, distant about thirty
miles. We could trace it north and south for an
immense distance, some of the peaks appearing
to rise to a great height. The country lying be-
tween us and this mountainous range was a suc-
cession of hill and valley as far as we could see.
APRIL 12. In a narrow valley between two
low ranges of wooded heights, we discovered a
pool or small lake. It was of irregular shape,
about a mile and a quarter long, by half a mile
wide. We could find no traces of it on the map
we had with us, and therefore concluded that
it was not a permanent body of water, or had
not been previously discovered. Many storks
and splendid rose-coloured flamingoes were ob-
served wading about in the lake, and from the
distance they could wander from the shore, we
perceived that the water was very shallow.
These birds were probably in search of frogs and
water lizards, as we could find no traces of fish
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 313
in the water. A thick growth of reeds choked
up the south corner, and it was nearly entirely
surrounded with a forest of enormous trees. In
the mud we saw many traces of elephants, and
a herd of these animals was seen in the neigh-
bourhood.
But the principal incident of this day was
the discovery of a couple of tapirs, for which
this peninsula is so celebrated. They were
found about half a mile away from the lake,
lying in a patch of tall grass, and apparently fast
asleep. "When disturbed by our near approach
they rose, uttering a low grunting sound, not
at all unlike that of a pig, and endeavoured to
make their escape. One was shot down before
it had got twenty yards, being pierced with
three bullets ; but the other, though wounded,
rushed through the forest, crushing its way
amongst the undergrowth. We followed in its
wake for nearly a mile, and obtained two shots
at it, but it ultimately escaped into a part of
the wood so dense and overgrown with creepers
that we could not keep up with it, and were
obliged to give up the chase.
314 A NARRATIVE'
Returning to the beast we had slain we were
informed by our men that after we had left it
for dead it had risen and would have escaped
had not Akbar put another bullet through its
head. It was an extraordinary creature, about
the size of a small rhinoceros that is to say it
was just eight feet in length, and about five in
height. The shape was also similar to that of
a rhinoceros ; but it was furnished with a
singular proboscis ten inches in length, and
terminated by a sort of round knob or fleshy
excrescence. The colour of this animal was
white, except the head, neck, shoulders, breast,
and fore-legs, which were jet black. This gave
the animal a most curious appearance, as if a
pair of black trousers had been pulled over its
fore-legs and fastened about its neck. Its skin
was even thicker than that of the rhinoceros,
and covered with coarse hairs, black on the
black portions of its body and white on the
others.
APRIL 13. In every valley we passed
through we found small pools of water, fed by
springs, and discharging the superfluous water in
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 315
tiny rivulets, running for the most part in a
south or south by west direction. We found
more winged game near these pools than had
been seen in any part of the country previously
passed through. Flamingoes, storks, and a
species of bittern were abundant ; and we had
capital sport with birds that were more or less
good for food ; the following bag being made :
seventeen pigeons of two varieties, five pea-
cocks, nine pheasants, fifteen ducks of three
different varieties, and ten other birds of odd
kinds. The pheasants and some of the ducka
were birds of extremely beautiful plumage.
Towards mid-day, having advanced about
eight miles over country that was in places
difficult of access, we came within view of an-
other village of tree- huts, if I may so designate it.
Only four of the elevated dwellings were visible,'
and though we searched the country around
carefully with our glasses we could see nothing
of the inhabitants. In a couple of hours we
arrived under these four huts, and found them
exactly the same in construction as those already
described. At the foot of the trees were large
316 A NARRATIVE
heaps of bones and filth, amongst which we
found what appeared to be the skull of a child.
It might have been that of a large monkey ;
but both Captain Lacy and myself thought it a
suspicious circumstance, and felt sure that we
were not mistaken. As, however, the skull was
mutilated, and the teeth entirely wanting, we
could not come to a satisfactory conclusion.
As we had had a fatiguing march of ten
miles we halted here ; but none of the people
came near us. They had possibly seen and
heard us shooting, and were terrified at the
deadly effects of our weapons. We ascended
to the huts, but found literally nothing in them
save filth. We kept quiet and tried to hide
ourselves during the afternoon, in the hope that
some of the people would show themselves, but
they did not ; and though we kept strict watch
throughout the night nothing was heard of
them.
APRIL 14. Again we met with dense patches
of forest and jungle, which retarded our pro-
gress very much. The hills, which we were
continually crossing, were more remakable for
OF TRA VEL AND SPOR T. 317
steepness than height, few of them being more
than four or five hundred feet in elevation.
Growing on the sides and summits we found
several species of pine-trees, a few specimens
being from a hundred and fifty to two hundred
feet in height.
Snakes were abundant in this region, some of
them six or seven feet in length; but they were
inoffensive in so far as they always strove to get
out of our way. No large game was seen, but
we found traces of elephants. In spite of all
drawbacks we covered fully sixteen miles to-day
one of the longest marches we have made in
the country.
APRIL 15. Very stiff and tired ; the result
of yesterday's prolonged exertion. In conse-
quence we only crossed one range of hills this
day, and advanced to the base of the elevated
mountains which have been visible during the
past week and more. This occupied four hours ;
the rest of the day was devoted to shooting.
Plenty of deer were found in the more open
parts of the forest, near the pools and springs.
They were shy (probably through being fre-
3i8 A NARRATIVE
quently disturbed by the wild men), and we had
great difficulty in getting near to them. Of the
four we succeeded in killing one was shot run-
ning at fifty yards, one running at between
three and four hundred yards, and the remain-
ing two standing at distances of three hundred
and four hundred and fifty yards respectively.
They were small in size, and easily killed by a
rifle bullet if fairly hit. A fifth that we fired at
had its fore-leg smashed, but it nevertheless
got away and we were unable to follow it.
Wandering in the forest we suddenly, and
without any previous warning of their prox-
imity, came upon a party of thirty or forty
native wild men. They fled upon our approach,
but we found no difficulty in keeping them
in sight, although we could not overtake them
and chased them for about a mile, when they
reached their village, and uttering cries of alarm,
the women, as we supposed, for we were not
near enough to make sure, came down from
their tree-huts and joined them in their flight.
One miserable object was a cripple, and tried to
make his escape on all-fours, jumping along
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 319
with great rapidity. He was soon captured,
3,nd endeavoured, by a horrible display of facial
distortions, to intimidate us from touching him.
His limbs were wasted away by rheumatism, or
some disease of a similar nature, and he was
quite incapable of standing. From constant
crawling on his hands and knees, the skin on
these parts had become like sole leather, and his
nails had been suffered to grow until they had
become quite horny like the claws of a beast of
prey.
We gave this unhappy creature a few trifling
-articles which we happened to have about us,
and which we thought were likely to attract a
savage eye ; but he refused to touch them, and
was evidently in terror for his safety. Leaving
our presents on the ground near him, we pro-
oeeded back to our halting-place, distant about
three miles. As we passed near the dwellings
of these people, we saw that there were fifteen
huts one or two in a tree. The usual heaps of
bones and rubbish lay underneath at the foot of
the trees, and we found that they had been
feeding upon both deer and monkeys, and we
320 A NARRATIVE
also saw the remains of birds, snakes, &c. r
tending to prove that these wretched people are
in the habit of eating whatever they have the
fortune to lay hands on.
The next morning we made another attempt
to communicate with these savages, and suc-
ceeded in surprising them. We arrived under
their trees before they became aware of our
presence, and though we made every possible
demonstration of friendliness, they evinced the
wildest terror, and refused to come down from
their trees. Some of them seized their spears,
or pointed sticks, and made other active prepa-
rations for attack or defence ; and as we feared
they might throw their weapons, we withdrew
behind the shelter of the tree- trunks, upon
which they commenced to swarm to the ground,
men, women, and children, all completely
naked, their bodies thickly covered with hair
(perhaps the result of exposure to the weather
without covering or clothing), giving them a
most beast-like appearance. All our efforts to
stay the flight of these people were unavailing.
As fast as they reached the ground they ran off
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 321
into the woods, and when once or twice we went
out and attempted to approach them, they
raised their sticks in a threatening attitude, and
we were compelled to retire to prevent a colli-
sion. Nothing was seen this morning of the
crippled man.
We lay by for a rest the remainder of this
day, shooting about the neighbourhood in the
evening.
21
CHAPTER XVI.
Commence ascent of the 'mountains. Sides very steep and
covered with forests. Gamboge and pine trees. Growth
of the trees. Our highest point. Pigeons. Dark night.
Sublime scene. Descend on the west side of the range.
Fearful storm. Quantity of game. Party of natives.
Their weapons. A nearly white tapir shot. Use of the
proboscis. Hilly district. Retarded by denseness of the
forest. Follow the course of a stream. A large python.
Description of the river. Reach the sea-shore. -Purchase
a prah at a Malay hamlet, and set sail for Penang. Arrive
at Georgetown. Conclusion.
212
A NARRATIVE OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 325
APRIL 17 ; being Easter Sunday. We com-
menced to ascend the mountainous range west-
ward, between four and five o'clock in the
morning. The day was warm (102), and we
found the ascent rather distressing. We had
chosen, as we thought, the lowest and most
accessible portion of the range ; but it was very
steep, nevertheless, and the ground so broken
and rough that it was with the utmost diffi-
culty that we succeeded in dragging our
baggage along with us. By ten o'clock, accord-
ing to a rough calculation of our elevation, made
by means of the aneroid, we had only ascended
about 2,000 feet. We then halted for rest, and
owing to the great heat (which at seven o'clock
had risen to 110 in the shade), could not
resume our laborious ascent until five o'clock
in the afternoon.
Up to 2,000 feet we found the sides of these
326 A NARRATIVE
mountains thickly covered with forest ; but
after that elevation was attained the trees
began to be scattered, and the forest to appear
only in patches. The majority of the trees after
3,000 feet were pines ; but at this height we
found the gamboge tree. The gamboge resin
was issuing from the trunks, and dropping to
the ground ; it was also clotted in large masses
on the bark, but the excessive heat had made
these masses soft and of the consistence of
pitch.
Some of the pine trees were of very pretty and
graceful shape and foliage, and of species that
I had not observed in any other country. The
height of them was very great, and some that
we measured were eight feet in diameter a
little above the ground. Monkeys and parrots
were jnoticed as high up these mountains as
about 2,500 feet, and pigeons were found on
their summits.
The steepness of our ascent was extraor-
dinary, and such as I have never experienced
in other mountains. In places the ground was
covered with fallen trees, whose weight, coupled
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 327
with the great inclination at which they grew,
had torn them up by the roots. In other
places the forest trees had a most remarkable
inclination to the eastward ; and sometimes the
face of the mountain was so exceedingly steep
that no trees could maintain a hold upon it,
and such spots were covered with a growth of
coarse grass, creepers, dwarfed pines and jungle
plants. Some idea of the difficulty of the
ascent may be obtained by the length of time
it consumed. The first 2,000 feet was attained
in five hours, which was partly owing to the
denseness of the forest : we arrived on the
summit in three hours more, the total height
above sea-level being rather over 4,000 feet.
It was now eight in the evening, and the sun
had set ; 'but there was twilight sufficient to
show us an immense tract of country, stretching
away on the east and west sides of us. North-
west the country appeared to be mountainous ;
but it was too late in the evening for us to be
able to ascertain its characteristics.
While the twilight lasted, we had some
excellent pigeon shooting ; for the trees here
328 A NARRATIVE
were not more than eighty or a hundred feet
high, and the birds were in consequence not
able to get out of range of our fowling-pieces.
We knocked over between three and four
dozen.
The night was intensely dark, and, what in
these eastern lands is remarkable, there was no-
lightning, yet throughout the night the ther-
mometer stood at 80 to 82. We supposed
that the heat during the day in the plains had
been tremendous.
At sunrise on the 18th, the sight was
heavenly in its sublimity. I dare not attempt
to describe it. The sun rose red and fiery, and
revealed to our eyes scores of miles of splendid
forests, relieved by romantic-looking mountain
ranges, lit up with a radiance which persons-
unacquainted with the brilliant charms of
tropical countries can have no conception of.
To me the view was so glorio us and delightful,
that I felt it was worth a life-time of labour to
enjoy it.
We commenced to descend on the west side
at six o'clock, and found the face of the rnoun-
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 329
tain not quite so steep as on the east; but
clothed like it with forest, which was very dense
near the base. The fauna met with consisted
of pigeons and mosquitos at our greatest eleva-
tion ; parrots commenced at about 2,800 feet,
monkeys at 2,400 feet, some hawks at 2,000,
small birds, finches, lizards, and small snakes
at 1,500 ; boa constrictors (not exceeding five
or six feet in length) at 1,000, and frocri
1,000 feet downwards we found the forest
very full of all sorts of small birds, monkeys,
and reptiles.
We arrived at the foot of the mountains
soon after ten o'clock, and at that time found
the heat so excessive that we could not advance
across the plain. It was, indeed, extraor-
dinarily hot ; and at noon the thermometer
stood at 119. About four in the afternoon, a
frightful tlrunderstorm commenced. Trees were
riven to atoms by the electric fluid, and several
partially burnt monkeys and birds fell near
us. A deluge of rain fell, and as we were
unable to find effectual shelter, we were sooa
drenched to the skin. This storm lasted for
.330 A NARRATIVE
three hours, and we were prevented from
making any farther movement that day.
APRIL 19. Started westward about five
o'clock. Country mostly covered with dense
forest ; but some open tracts and small plains.
We found mangosteens and other fruits in great
abundance, and met with no less than five herds
of deer, besides a herd of between sixty and
seventy elephants. Many of the deer could
have been shot down, but we contented our-
selves with the slaughter of two to supply our
present wants. We marched about fourteen
miles this day.
APRIL 20. Between ten and eleven o'clock
we discovered a party of human beings, distant
about a mile or so. Through our glasses we
could see that ten or a dozen of them were
sitting round a fire and eating. A few others
were moving about in the jungle near them; but
we could not see any of their dwellings or nests
in the trees near at hand.
All savages are very quick of eye, and these
people must have seen us, especially as we did
not attempt to conceal ourselves, hoping that if
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 331
we did not appear before them too suddenly they
would be more disposed to communicate with us
than those we had met with hitherto ; but they
showed no signs of noticing us until we were
within two hundred yards of them, when they
rose up, collected together in a crowd, and ap-
peared to await our approach. As soon, however,
as we got a hundred yards nearer, they bolted
in a body, and every man of them was out of
sight in five minutes. Half an hour later we
passed their village. It consisted of five huts
built in the trees, and seven hovels erected on
the ground. They were built of branches like
those described in a former chapter, but were
overlaid with deer-skins.
In the interior of one of the huts were a num-
ber of short thick sticks, intended apparently as
missile weapons. Several of them had traces of
blood and feathers adhering to them, as if they
had been used for knocking down birds. The
only other articles found were a number of
sharpened stones, serving the purposes of knives.
Heaps of grass in most of the huts served the
purposes of beds.
332 A NARRATIVE
We had plenty of water to-day from the pools-
collected during the recent storm. The rain had
been sufficiently heavy to lay some low-lying
districts under water. Two herds of deer, and
two of elephants, were seen, besides great num-
bers of birds, consisting principally of pheasants,,
pigeons, a species of quail which is found also
in Hindoostan, and a fine pea-fowl. These latter,,
it should have been mentioned, are not of the
common Indian kind ; but of the same species as
the Javanese pea-fowl. This day we also saw a
tapir, but at such a distance that we could not
get a shot at it.
APRIL 21. Another tapir was seen early this
morning, and a second about noon, which was
shot. This specimen was less in size than the
one killed on a former occasion, and it was nearly
entirely white, only the fore -legs, shoulders, and
head being black. It is difficult to comprehend
the use of the curious proboscis with which the
animal is furnished. It is not long enough to
be of use to it in pulling down the branches of
trees upon which it feeds, and it is not used in
drinking like the trunk of the elephant.
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 333
The distance travelled this day was about
twelve miles over a country sometimes thickly
covered with forest, and sometimes open, with
only a sprinkling of trees. It was hilly, some of
the elevations being eight or nine hundred feet
above sea-level. We halted at night on the
outskirts of an extensive forest.
APRIL 22.' In order to keep our course due
west, with the object of reaching the coast, we
were compelled to plunge into the depths of the
forest near which we had passed the night. We
found it nearly impenetrable, and though we
made most strenuous exertions to cover as much
ground as possible, the distance actually travelled
in ten hours could not have been more than as
many miles. We were compelled to halt for a
rest frequently, and suffered from the scarcity of
water. None was met with during the day, and
at night the limited supply which we carried
with us was exhausted.
APEIL 23. The need of finding water speedily
and the sufferings we experienced from want
of it, induced us to resume our journey at three
o'clock in the morning. In four hours we made
334 A NARRATIVE
about five miles, and got clear of the forest. An
hour later discovered a stream on our right, and
after a couple of hours' rest proceeded to follow
its course westward. It was not more than thirty
yards wide ; but eight miles further on, where
we halted for the day, its width had increased
to fifty yards. Numerous pheasants of hand-
some plumage inhabited the woods near its
banks, and we had good sport with them and
the pigeons.
APRIL 24. Constant and excessive fatigue,
accompanied with a diet consisting entirely of
meat and water, had reduced us to an uncom-
fortable plight, and we were anxious to bring
our ramblings to an end for a time, in order to
recruit our exhausted frames. We accordingly
made a forced march of about eighteen miles this
day, choosing a course parallel to and about a
couple of miles from the river. The country
was partly level, partly hilly or undulating, and
covered with timber of large growth. The dis-
tance accomplished will prove that we did not
meet with many impediments to our progress ;
but in places the jungle and undergrowth was
OF TRA VEL AND SPORT. 335
troublesome and caused us delay. In one of
the forest districts we destroyed a large boa or
python, eighteen feet in length. It was coiled
round the trunk of a young teak tree, and upon
receiving a couple of bullets through the head >
lashed out furiously with its tail. The Malay
Saja, seizing his opportunity, closed with it, and
hacked it nearly to pieces with an axe. It was
of a grey or dark drab colour above, yellowish
beneath, and prettily marked in a network
pattern with black and brown.
APRIL 25. The river has now increased in
breadth to about eighty yards. There are many
fish of considerable size in its waters, and water-
fowl of the stork, bittern, snipe, and duck
families are numerous. "We also disturbed a
small herd of elephants, w r hich were disporting
themselves in the river ; and as we were in need
of meat we shot one of the beasts. Nine bullets
brought it to the ground, after it had made
desperate efforts to escape from us. No other
four-footed game was seen ; but we came
across several large apes, and monkeys in-
numerable.
336 A NARRATIVE
The obstacles met with to-day were many,
and our progress bad. The ground on the
right bank of the river appearing to be the
best adapted for travelling, we forded across,
finding about five feet of water in mid-stream,
though in most places the river was much
deeper.
APRIL 26. Forcing our way all day through
dense forest. No food but dried elephants'
flesh and a few pigeons ; fare that has become
quite loathsome to us.
APRIL 27. To our great joy we came in sight
of the sea about two o'clock in the afternoon,
and at eight encamped on its shores. The forest
and a thick growth of luxuriant vegetation ran
down as far as high water-mark ; and the river,
& few hundred yards above its mouth was nearly
a quarter of a mile broad.
We concluded that at this point we were only
about forty or fifty miles south of Province
Wellesley, and hoped to be able to march that
distance in three or four days.
APRIL 28. While marching along the shore
we observed a steam vessel far out at sea, ap-
OF TRAVEL AND SPORT. 337
parently working her way northward, and pro-
bably making for Penang. Between nine and
ten o'clock we reached a Malay hamlet, consist-
ing of thirteen huts. Through Saja, we were
enabled to communicate with these people, and
purchase a quantity of rice, and a prah. We
embarked on board the latter, with the intention
of running along the coast till we came to Penang.
The wind was dead against us, and we were
obliged to keep constantly at the oars. As
night came on we landed, and the next morning
continued our voyage. "We came in sight of
Penang before mid-day ; and at six o'clock in the
evening arrived at Georgetown.
Here my narrative must end. Captain Lacy
soon left by the mail for Rangoon, taking, by
his own desire, the Malay Saja with him. I
myself remained some time longer at George-
town, and ultimately took passage back to Cal-
cutta, bringing my travels, for a time, to a con-
clusion.
Though greatly reduced by a lengthened
period of hard marching, and want of proper
lodging and food, it is worthy of remark that I
22
338 A NARRATIVE OF TRAVEL AND SPORT.
was in excellent health at the end of our journey,
nor did I afterwards suffer any inconvenience
owing to the arduous tramp of which the fore-
going pages give a narration.
:
THE END,
BILLING AND SONS, PRINTERS, GUIU>FORD, SURREY.
FOURTEEN DAY USE
RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWED
This book is due on the last date stamped below, or
on the date to which renewed.
Renewed books are subject to immediate recall.
4>
c'
q, -
3SF"
^
ff
DEC 2 4 1975 3 7
REC.CHL DEC ITS
-in~7ft
BECL cut NOV 3 1979
Alxx* . *~.
1ETO NOV 4t
LIBRARY USE OCT 29 '85
M309429
