Google 



This is a digital copy of a book that was preserved for generations on library shelves before it was carefully scanned by Google as part of a project 

to make the world's books discoverable online. 

It has survived long enough for the copyright to expire and the book to enter the public domain. A public domain book is one that was never subject 

to copyright or whose legal copyright term has expired. Whether a book is in the public domain may vary country to country. Public domain books 

are our gateways to the past, representing a wealth of history, culture and knowledge that's often difficult to discover. 

Marks, notations and other maiginalia present in the original volume will appear in this file - a reminder of this book's long journey from the 

publisher to a library and finally to you. 

Usage guidelines 

Google is proud to partner with libraries to digitize public domain materials and make them widely accessible. Public domain books belong to the 
public and we are merely their custodians. Nevertheless, this work is expensive, so in order to keep providing tliis resource, we liave taken steps to 
prevent abuse by commercial parties, including placing technical restrictions on automated querying. 
We also ask that you: 

+ Make non-commercial use of the files We designed Google Book Search for use by individuals, and we request that you use these files for 
personal, non-commercial purposes. 

+ Refrain fivm automated querying Do not send automated queries of any sort to Google's system: If you are conducting research on machine 
translation, optical character recognition or other areas where access to a large amount of text is helpful, please contact us. We encourage the 
use of public domain materials for these purposes and may be able to help. 

+ Maintain attributionTht GoogXt "watermark" you see on each file is essential for in forming people about this project and helping them find 
additional materials through Google Book Search. Please do not remove it. 

+ Keep it legal Whatever your use, remember that you are responsible for ensuring that what you are doing is legal. Do not assume that just 
because we believe a book is in the public domain for users in the United States, that the work is also in the public domain for users in other 
countries. Whether a book is still in copyright varies from country to country, and we can't offer guidance on whether any specific use of 
any specific book is allowed. Please do not assume that a book's appearance in Google Book Search means it can be used in any manner 
anywhere in the world. Copyright infringement liabili^ can be quite severe. 

About Google Book Search 

Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers 
discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web 

at |http: //books .google .com/I 




??C 2-2, 



I 



A VISIT 



TO THE 



INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO, 



IN H. M. SHIP M.EANDER. 



A VISIT 



TO THE 



INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO, 



IN H. M. SHIP MEANDER 



WITH 



PORTIONS OF THE PRIVATE JOURNAL OF SIR JAMES BROOKE, E.C.B. 



BY 



CAPT«. THE HON. HENRY KEPPEL, R.N. 



WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY OSWALD W. BRIERLEY. 



" Where things flunUUr coue, and stnuige begin." 



IN TWO VOLUMEa 

VOL. I. 



LONDON : 
RICHABD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINQTON STREET; 

ViAIMxt <n ^binaqi to %n JHajtstg. 

MDCCCLIII. 



L«>N'LM>N : 
BRAnBIIllY AND KVAN8, PKISTF.RK. WHIIKKKIAltS. 



TO SIR JAMES BROOKE, K.C.B., 

RAJAH OF SARAWAK. 



My dear Brooke, 

Dedications are, I believe, still in fashion; and if so, 
many considerations decide me to assign this conspicuous position to 
your name. If it be in any measure a compliment, there is none 
to whom I would rather offer it. If it be a way of letting the 
world know that one has a worthy friend, you are the man. If it 
be a mode of drawing more attention to one's work than its own 
merits would secure, or of bespeaking more indulgence for the 
sake of the patron than its unprotected demerits would find — ^yours 
is still the name to which I would trust. 

I have one other reason; namely, that four or five chapters of 
my book are really devoted to a vindication, which certainly you 
do not need, but which I could not shun to offer, without turning 
out of the direct course of duty and of pleasure. Accept it according 
to its intention rather than its ability; and believe me. 

My dear Brooke, 

Your sincere friend, 

HENRY KEPPEL. 
Droxfobd, Dee, 11, 1852. 



PREFACE. 



I WAS considering how to excuse myself for writing a 

book, when my eye fell upon an old edition of Lord Bacon's 

works, of which the illustrated title-page suggests an 

excellent apology for nautical authors. It represents a 

ship sailing into port ; and under it is this Scripture text 

in Latin, " Many shall run to and fro, and knowledge shall 

be increased" Certain it is that "they that go down 

to the sea in ships, and occupy their business in great 

waters, these men see the works of the Lord, and his 
wonders in the deep." I believe that the profession, to 

which I have the honour to belong, has increased useful 

knowledge more than all other professions, and that it 

may still do so. Let sailors simply tell what they have 

seen and can testify ; each storing up his share of 

authentic information when he finds himself 

" Where things fomiliar cease, and strange begin/' 

and none such need apologise for the books they write. 



vui PREFACE. 

The phenomena of Nature ; the phases of society civilised, 
and semi-civilised, arid barbarous ; its manners, customs, 
and peculiarities ; the productions, animate and inanimate, 
of all climes : the world, in short, seen everywhere, and 
faithfully reported just as it is, affording thus food for the 
sublimest and for the simplest studies, — this is, at least 
in time of peace, a worthy department of the sailor's 
mission. 

I do not say that we are all to print, whether we 
see anything or not ; but that a sailor, actively 
employed, can hardly escape from an " increasing 
knowledge," on subjects new to those at home, which 
qualifies him for a very useful kind of authorship. 

My "Visit to the Indian Abchipblago" has grown 
out of this principle. I hope the perusal of it may 
reflect on the reader some portion of that information or 
amusement, which I owe to it or to the days to which 
it takes me back. 

A word is necessary upon one particular subject, which 
occupies four or five chapters of this book, — more space 
than I had thought of assigning to it ; but it grew under 
the pen ; and of all parts I feel that this needs the least 



PREFACE. ix 

apology, except for its imperfect execution. The subject 
is Sir James Brooke : and the intention is to vindicate 
that excellent man from calumny. This task, though 
almost superfluous, offered itself so directly in my course, 
that I could not turn from it. Many of my observations 
have been doubtless better made by abler defenders of my 
friend ; but there is some new matter ; and I have drawn 
upon no extraneous source for opinions^ which I have had 
superior opportunities of forming for myself I commend 
my facts to the attention of the reader ; my reasonings to 
his impartiahty ; and all inadvertent errors to his 
" gentleness." 

HENEY KEPPEL. 

DBOxroBD, Dee, 11, 1852. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

» PAGE 

Mcetmder Selected to Take out Governor Brooke to Labuan — Departure 
from Spithead — Madeira — ^Rio de Janeiro— Great Circle Sailing — Prince 
Edward's and Crozet's Islands — Struts of Sunda — Best Course for a 
Quick Passage — ^Arriyal at Sincapore — Notice of its first Establishment 
— ^Inveetiture of Governor Brooke as K.C.R — Tigers — Water-Bufifaloes . 1 



CHAPTER IL 

New Harbour — Sail from Sincapore — Santobong — Excitement at the Rajah's 
Return — St. Pierre's — Maseender Proceeds up tho River — ^Rejoicings — 
Kuching — Earliest Views and Movements of Sir James Brooke .16 



CHAPTER in. 

State of the Province of Sadong — ^Bomean Storm — Conference at the Rajah's 
with the Native Chiefis — ^Wild Hog Killed — ^Departure for Labuan — ^The 
Governor Sworn in — DifSculties of the New Settlement — The Barracks 
— Departure for Brund — Squalls — Disasters thereby — Departiure for 
Sincapore — Sickness at Labuan — Deaths among the Msoinos — Arrival 
at Sincapore — Return to Labuan — Sepoys on Board Ship — Increased 
Sickness and Mortality at Labuan — Dangerous Illness of the Governor — 
Ho EmbariLs on Board the Mcecmder, and Proceeds on a Cruise 26 



xii CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER IV. 

PAGK 

Anchor off Kimanis — Communicate with the Orang Kaya — Boat Arrives 
firom Wreck of the Minerva — Curious Swarm of Bees — Sail from 
Kimanis — Kini Balu Mountain and Scenery — Wreck of Minerva Found 
Plundered and Burnt — Balambangan — Hauling the Seine — Sheriff 
Hussein — Civility of the Chiefs — Sporting — Simpang Mengiow — Mal- 
lawalli — Death of John Jago — Cagayan Soloo — ^Remarkable Inland 
Basin — Christmas Day 39 



CHAPTER V. 

Toolyan — Bolod Islands — Island of Baailan — Samboangan — Sociable Society 
— Departure from Samboangan — Fleet of Gun-boats — Coral Island and 
Sea Birds— Cagayan Soloo — ^Discovery of a Second Circular Lake, and 
Description — Departure for Banguey — Labuan — Improvements there — 
Sincapore — Ordered to China — Arrival at Hong Kong . .56 



CHAPTER VI. 

Piracy in the China Seas — ^Regatta at Macao— Imprisonment of Mr. Summers 
— ^Interview on the Subject with the Portuguese Governor — ^Measures 
Taken for the Liberation of Mr. Summers — This Subject Reviewed — 
Particulars of the Assassination of Governor Do Amaral, and Subsequent 
Events — Explosion of the DcnaAf aria Frigate 90 



CHAPTER VIL 

Departure for Manilla — Its Bay, River, City, Villages, and Manufactures— 
Hospitality— Trip to the Lakes— Cavitar— Regal State of the Governor 
— Perils of a Patent of Nobility — Departure from Manilla — Ship 
Aground— Arrival at Labuan— Take in Coal — News of Pirate Fleet 
having put to Sea — Departure for the Coast of Borneo . . .115 



CONTENTS. xiii 



CHAPTER VIIL 

PAOE 

Malays and Dyaks as respects their Piratical Character — Serebas Malays — 
Serebas Dyaks — ^The Malay Prahu — The Dyak Bangkong— Sakarrans— 
Remarks on their Piratical Propensities, and on our former Operations 
against them — Preparations of the Serebas Pirates — Preparations of the 
Rajah of Sar&wak — Pirate Prisoner brought in — Attack on Sadong by 
the Serebas Pirates — A Chief Dtmgdong — His Fate— Remarks — The 
Rajah of Sarftwak Sallies forth with his Fleet— Is Joined by Native Allies 
— His Proceedings — Return to Sarftwak 126 



CHAPTER IX. 

AUxUrcn Sails from Hong Kong for Borneo — Sir James Brooke Proceeds on 
a IGssion to Soloo — His Return to Saiftwak — Albatross Arrives there — 
Preparations for again Encountering the Serebas Pirates — ^European 
Force — Native Force — Expedition Leaves Sarftwak and Arrives off the 
Batang Lupar — Royalist Sent to Guard the Linga — Intelligence Received 
that the Pirate Balla had passed out to Sea — Proceedings of the 
Pirates — ^Expedition Takes up a Position off the Serebas — Return of the 
Pirate Fleet — ^Its Destruction — Further Particulars — Proceedings of 
another Portion of the Pirate Balla — They Visit the Marotabus — Capture 
and Death of Hussein ... 147 



CHAPTER X. 

Expedition Ascends the Serebas River and the Paku Branch — ^Accident to the 
Ranee— Two Sons and Nephew of the Orang Eaya of Lundu Killed — His 
Chrief and Departure with hia Tribe — Paku Destroyed — Serebas Jack — 
Expedition Proceeds up the Rejang — Customs of the Millanows — Siriki — 
Kanowit River — Country of the Sakarran Pirates — Its Fertility — Native 
Force from Mato— Youthful Dyak Prisoner — His Liberation — Expedi- 
tion Descends the Rejang — Native Auxiliaries Dismissed — Rijah Gives an 
Audience to some Pirate Chiefs — Nemens Proceeds up the Rejang to the 
Country of the Kanowits — ^Man Overboard Saved by a Malay — ^Proofs of 
Piracy — Fines Inflicted and Elnforced — How afterwards Disposed of — 
Expedition Returns to Sarftwak 163 



xiv CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER XL 

PAO« 

Reply to Charges made bj Mr. Hume, particularly as they affect Sir James 
Brooke 182 



CHAPTER XII. 

Reply to Mr> Hume continued — His Captains — His "Gentleman" — His 
"Merchants"— His Prompters— Himself 216 



CHAPTER XIII. 

Reply to Mr. Hume concluded — " Undue Severity " — Documentary Refuta- 
tions — General Observations on Piracy and its Remedies . 247 



CHAPTER XIV. 

General Remarks on Piracy — Its Origin, Sources of Growth, and Develop- 
ment — ^Means of Suppression and Prevention — Ancient and Modem 
Piracy similar in all Respects — ^England's Duty as to the Police of the 
Eastern Seas — Sar&wak — New Facts — Old Alignments . .277 



ERRATUM. 



Page 260, line 8, /or "Alfred," read "Edgar." 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



CHART OF THE INDIAN AKCHIPELAQO . inserted in Pocket 

H.K.a 1L£AND£R, CASTING FROM SPITHEAD . . To &oe the TiUe. 

MAN OVERBOARD „ Page 6 

FRESH WATER LAKE-, CAGAYAN SOOLOO ... „ „ 85 

SHIP ON SHORE „ „ 122 



A VISIT 



TO 



THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 



CHAPTER I. 



XA/LNDBB SELECTED TO TAKE OUT OOTERKOR BROOKE TO LABUAK DEPARTURE FROM 

8PITHEAD MADEIRA RIO DE JANEIRO GREAT CIRCLE SAIUMO — PRINCE 

EDWARD'S AND CROZET'S ISLANDS — STRAITS OP SUNDA BEST COURSE FOR A QUICK 

PASSAGE — ARRIVAL AT SINGAPORE ^NOTICE OF ITS FIRST ESTABUSHXENT 

nfYESTITURB OF OOYERNOR BROOKE AS K.O.B. —TIGERS — WATER-BUFFALOES. 

As soon as it was decided that Mr. Brooke was to go 
out as Governor of Labuan, Lord Auckland, with his 
usual kindness and consideration, concluded that an old 
friend acquainted with the locality, and feeling an interest 
in Bomean affairs, might be of more assistance in forming 
the new settlement than a stranger ; I was in conse- 
quence, on the 1st of November, 1847, appointed to the 
MceandeVy 44 guns, at Chatham. She was quickly and 
well manned, and would have sailed at the end of 

B 



2 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

December so as to meet the Governor early in April at 
Sincapore ; his intention having been to leave England 
in February, by the overland route. Mr. Brooke had, 
however, obtained the appointment of Lieutenant- 
Governor for Mr. William Napier, a gentleman who, 
from long residence as a proctor at Sincapore, was 
well acquainted with the intricacies of our treaties with 
the Netherlands Government respecting the Eastern 
Archipelago. 

It was decided that the passage by sea in a man-of-war 
would be more convenient than the route overland, for 
the conveyance of the Lieutenant-Governor's family ; 
and he having much to arrange with his chief, which 
might easily be done during the voyage, they decided on 
going together. A passage was applied for and ordered 
accordingly. 

The main-deck guns, as far forward as the main-mast, 
were dismounted ; the ports fitted as windows, and the 
deck divided into cabins ; the Mfeander had then the 
-appearance of one of Mr. Green's fine Indiamen, without 
however pretending to their accommodation. 

The confusion on board even an Indiamau expressly 
fitted for passengers is generally bad enough ; but in a 
man-of-war, where every inch of space has been pre- 
occupied, the holds containing no more than the provisions 
necessary for so large a body of men, the extra demand 
for stowage which was not fairly to be had crammed our 
lower deck up to the beams with luggage, turned the men 



MADEIRA. 3 

out of their proper berths, and caused a degree of dis- 
comfort not to be described 

On the 24th January we arrived at Spithead ; and, 
having embarked our passengers, we sailed on the evening 
of the 1st February. The weather was such as is usually 
experienced in the Channel at this season of the year, 
so that we had the disadvantage of at once plunging into 
a head sea ; and, before we had got abreast of the 
Eddystone, it blew hard from the westward : we thought 
it advisable to run into Plymouth Sound, and secure 
things in the places into which they had been just 
shaken; we sailed on the 6th, and again took shelter 
on the 10th in Cork Harbour, our passengers suffering 
considerably. 

Sailed from Cork on the 15th. 

After our full share of bad weather, we were not sorry 
to arrive at Madeira on the 23rd. Our party were 
entertained with the usual hospitality of that island. Her 
Majesty the Queen Dowager was at this time residing 
there for the benefit of her health, and she had caused 
her munificent charity to be felt throughout the island. 

The day after our arrival. His Serene Highness the 
Duke Bernard of Saxe Weimar, attended by his sons, the 
Princes Edward and Herman, with Lord Northland, Major 
de Winton, and a large party, paid the Mfeander a visit. 

We sailed on the 26th. The incidents of a sea voyage 
are seldom interesting to any but the party concerned. 
On crossing the equator, the usual ceremony was 

B 2 



4 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

performed ; and the presence of passengers imparted to 
it an unusual degree of excitement. 

On the 24th we arrived at Rio de Janeiro, which we 
found as dirty as ever, with the slave trade in full vigour. 
A few months afterwards the philanthropic and enduring 
exertions of the British Government, seemed to have 
finally triumphed, and this vile traffic to have received 
its death-blow ; but we find it still attempting to struggle 
into a new existence. 

Among the men-of-war lying here we were glad to 
see the Coram, Commander D'Eyncourt, showing no 
symptoms of having been some weeks at the bottom of 
the muddy Rio de la Plata. May the time be far distant 
when a British officer shall despair of saving what by 
others might be given up as a lost affair ! Besides the 
Comus, we have the splendid exaniple of the Gorgon 
steam-frigate, recovered in almost the same locality. The 
circumstances just differed sufficiently to make each 
instance remarkable on its peculiar grounds ; the former 
vessel was as far under water as the latter was above the 
usual level of the river. 

March 28th, sailed fi-om Rio Harbour. On the prin- 
ciple of great circle sailing, we continued to make 
southing, until we were in the 56th deg. of east longi- 
tude, by which time we had attained the 48th of south 
latitude. 

On the 19 th April we made Prince Edward's Island, 
the summits of whose mountains were covered with snow : 



SAILOR OVERBOARD. 5 

on the following night, according to the chart, we ought, 
in the course we were taking, to have passed between the 
Crozet Islands, but we saw them not. 

On the 13th May we entered the Straits of Sunda, 
forty-seven days from Rio. 

Having made an equally quick passage six years pre- 
viously in the Didoy beating five men-of-war who kept 
the old track by St. Paul's and Amsterdam, I can safely 
recommend the one by which we sailed as the most 
expeditious, though perhaps not the most agreeable route ; 
we had much cold and unpleasant weather, with the 
thermometer frequently below 40 deg. On comparing 
the track of the Dido with that of the Mceander for the 
last 7000 miles, I find that the distances between the 
position of the two ships at noon on each day never 
exceeded 100 miles. 

On the 27th April, John WaUis, a fine young man, 
twenty-four years of age, fell overboard from the main- 
topsail yard : the ship was running fast through the water, 
and the ship^s company at breakfast. While lowering the 
quarter-boats to succour him, Lieutenant Comber, ever 
foremost in any such case, fell over the stem of the 
second cutter : the sea had closed over poor Wallis 
before a boat could reach him, and Comber was with 
diflSculty picked up in an exhausted state. While he was 
in the water, we observed several huge specimens of the 
albatross pass over him, and so close that he felt the tips 
of their wings sweep his face. Felicia Hemans must have 



6 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

seen some one in the like predicament before she wrote 
what so exactly describes our sensations : 

" Be still, thou sea bird, with thy cUnging ay ; 
My spirit sickeiiB as thy wing sweeps by." 

Attacks from these enormous gulls are not unusual. 
In 1830, when the Seringapatam frigate was on her way 
to Valparaiso, after rounding Cape Horn, and being under 
close-reefed topsails, a man fell overboard : he was unable 
to swim, but was fortunate in getting hold of the life-buoy, 
to which he clung ; but he had scarcely time to congra- 
tulate himself on his good luck, before he was assailed by 
an unlooked-for enemy in the albatross, who seemed to 
consider him as their immediate property. A tap on the 
head from one of their beaks might have finished poor 
Jack's career; but, terrified at their formidable appear- 
ance and equivocal intentions, he attempted to defend 
himself with his shoe ; this, without much difficulty, they 
had just torn from his grasp, when the boat arrived to his 
rescue. 

Wallis was a general favourite, and the ship's company 
requested they might be allowed to send a day's pay to 
his widowed mother, who was entirely dependent on him 
for support.* 

On the 20th May we arrived at Sincapore, after an 
excellent passage of three months and five days, including 
stoppages at Madeira and Rio. 



* The acknowledgment, with grateful thanks, from poor Mrs. Wallis, I 
received a few months afterwards, in a letter dictated from her death-bed. 



SINGAPORE. 7 

Here we received the intelligence of another revolution 
in France, the proclamation of the Republic, and of Louis 
Philippe being a refugee in England. 

We found Commodore Plumridge's broad pennant 
flying on board the Cambrian: the late commander- 
in-chief, Admiral Inglefield, having died at Bombay. 

On the 22nd our passengers landed, Mr. Brooke being 
received with all the honours due to a governor ; and on 
the following day preparations were commenced for 
establishing the new colony. An office was opened in 
Sincapore, and contracts received for the frame-works of 
the temporary residences to be erected for the Government 
functionaries. 

On the banks of a small stream — the rendezvous, until 
1819, of only a few Malay trading prahus — ^now stands the 
rich and extensive town of Sincapore. By no act of his 
life did Sir Stamford Raffles manifest greater discernment 
and foresight, than by founding this settlement. In 
1824, five years after its first establishment, the population 
amounted to 11,000, "the magical result," says its 
eminent founder, " of a perfect freedom in trade." This 
number had already doubled itself when I saw the place 
for the first time in 1833 ; and it has continued to 
increase ever since in the same rapid way. Sincapore 
has now become the commercial emporium of all the 
trading conmiunities of the Eastern Archipelago, as 
well as of that extensive trade which is carried on by all 
nations with China and India. Hither also resort, now 



8 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

twice in every month, the steam-vessels of the Dutch from 
Batavia, of the Spanish from Manilla, and our own from 
China, to meet the European mail. The number of 
square-rigged vessels that anchor annually in the roads 
exceeds a thousand. The island measures twenty-seven 
miles in length by eleven in breadth. A few years ago it 
was a dense jungle : on every hill may now be seen the 
residence of some hospitable merchant, surrounded by 
plantations of nutmeg or- other spice trees. Excellent 
roads intersect the island ; and substantial bridges are 
thrown across its streams — for which luxuries of 
communication much credit is due to the present 
energetic and excellent governor, Colonel Butterworth. 

On the 9 th June the PMegetJion steam-frigate sailed 
with the engineer, Mr. Scott, and Mr. Hosken the 
harbour-master, as the pioneers of the new settlement 
at Labuan. 

The June mail, which arrived on the 7th August, 
brought our new commander-in-chief, Sir Francis Collier, 
as well as the gratifying intelligence that Her Majesty 
had been pleased to confer the Order of the Bath on 
Mr. Brooke — of which he was made Knight Commander, — 
and the Lieutenant-Governor of Labuan was directed to 
invest Sir James accordingly. The ceremony was 
performed on the 22nd of August, a very great event in 
Sincapore, Mr. Napier representing Her Majesty with 
becoming dignity : the whole business was more amusing 
than imposing, and finishoil in the evening with a ball 



TIGERS. 9 

By some error, the representative of Majesty omitted to 
invite the too sensitive editor of a local journal, which over- 
sight gave rise to a succession of amusing articles, supposed 
to be in disparagement of the new colony generally, and of 
the Royal Navy in particular : some of these subsequently 
found their way into an English paper, and, I am told, 
were alluded to in the House of Commons. Great indeed 
must have been the triumph of my little friend 

During our stay at Sincapore, the body of a large 
tiger was brought in by some Malays (a not unusual 
occurrence), to enable them to receive the reward given 
by Government. The Malays stated that, when they 
found this monster in a hole which had been dug to 
catch him, they threw quick lime into his eyes ; and 
the unfortunate beast, while suflFering intense agony from 
this cruel appliance, drowned himself in some water 
which was at the bottom of the pit, though not more 
than a foot deep. 

The annual loss of human Ufe from tigers, chiefly 
among the Chinese settlers, is perfectly fearful, averaging 
no fewer than 360, or one per diem. Great exertions 
are still making for the destruction of these animals, 
which is effected by pitfalls, cages baited with a dog, 
goat, monkey, or other restless animal, and by sundry 
cunning contrivances. Not many years ago the existence 
of a tiger in the island was disbelieved ; and they must 
have been very scarce indeed, for even the natives did 
not know of any. It is the opinion of Dr. Oxley (no mean 



10 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

authority at Sincapore), that one may have been acci- 
dentally carried by the tide across the narrow straits 
which separate the island from the main land, and 
another may have instinctively followed : finding abundance 
of food they have multiplied. This is a more rational 
mode of accounting for their being here, than to suppose 
that they chased their prey over ; as it is contrary to the 
nature of the beast to follow in pursuit, after the first 
attempt proves unsuccessful. Now, at Sincapore, as in 
the days of Alfred with the wolves in England, it is 
necessary to oflfer a reward for their destruction. 

One of the most recent victims was the son of the 
headman at the village of Passier Rice, who, having gone 
into the jungle immediately at the back of his father's 
house, for the purpose of cutting wood, was attacked by a 
tiger. The father, hearing his cries, rushed out just in time 
to grasp his son's legs, as the brute was dragging him 
into the jungle. The father pulled and the tiger growled 
ferociously, and it was only on several persons coming up 
and assaiUng him, that the monster was persuaded to quit 
his prey ; but the unfortunate young man was dead 1 I 
could enumerate many instances of the daring exploits 
of these brutes, but one or two will be sufficient to con- 
vince the reader of the ferocious nature of their attacks, 
and their peculiar relish for human flesh, which, when once 
tasted, is preferred by them to any other. 

The district of Siranjong appears to be their favourite 
prowUng-ground. In April, last year, one of them put to 



WATER-BUFFALOES. 1 1 

flight a party of Malays who were at work in that neigh- 
bourhood. Before they could get clear of the jungle, the 
tiger — a well-known brute, advanced in years, and 
remarkable from having large white spots — sprang upon 
one of them, selecting, of course, the fettest. When the 
first shock of their fright was over, they turned on the 
tiger, and, pursuing him with their parongs (short swords), 
made him drop his prey, but not until the poor man was 
in the agonies of death. The same tiger, however, deter- 
mined not to be disappointed of his meal, that night carried 
off a Chinaman at a short distance from the scene of his 
morning's exploits. In the course of the following month, 
at the same place, two Chinamen employed in sawing 
timber were carried off. On the last occasion, the com- 
rades of the victim, hearing his shrieks, bravely rushed 
out in a body to his assistance, as the tiger was dragging 
him towards the jungle ; but, instead of dropping his 
prey and skulking off as he ought to have done, the brute, 
greatly to their dismay, heed about and stood growling 
over the body in a most ferocious manner ; and it was 
not imtil he had received a shower of sticks and stones 
that he moved off. 

The water-buffalo is an animal much in use at 
Sincapore for purposes of draught. It is a dull, heavy- 
looking animal — slow at work, and I think disgusting 
in appearance ; but remarkable for sagacity and attach- 
ment to its native keepers. It has, however, a particular 
antipathy to a European, and will immediately detect him 



12 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

in a crowd. Its dislike to, and its courage in attacking, 
the tiger is well known all over India. 

Not long ago, as a Malayan boy, who was employed by 
his parents in herding some water-buflFaloes, was driving 
his charge home by the borders of the jungle, a tiger made 
a sudden spring, and, seizing the lad by the thigh, was 
dragging him oflF, when two old bull buflFaloes, hearing the 
shriek of distress from the well-known voice of their little 
attendant, turned round and charged with their usual 
rapidity. The tiger, thus closely pressed, was obliged to 
drop his prey, to defend himself While one buflFalo 
fought and successfully drove the tiger away, the other 
kept guard over the wounded boy. Later in the evening, 
when the anxious father, alarmed, came out with attendants 
to seek his child, he found that the whole herd, with the 
exception of the two old buffaloes, had dispersed them- 
selves to feed, but that they were still there — one standing 
over the bleeding body of their little friend, while the 
other kept watch on the edge of the jungle for the return 
of the tiger. 

There is a procession and much parade in bringing 
these tigers to the Government office. They are made 
to look as fierce as possible, propped up in a standing 
position by pieces of bamboo, the mouth open, and tail 
on end. 

The Governor kindly presented me with this fallen 
monarch of the jungle, and I was astonished at the 
number of native volunteers for the service of denuding 



TIGER'S FLESH. 13 

him of his skin, the only part I coveted, while they 
demanded the carcase for their trouble. But I found 
afterwards that they made a large profit by retailing the 
flesh, a belief being entertained by this people that the 
eating of it is not only a sovereign remedy for all diseases, 
but that it imparts to him who eats it the sagacity 
as well as the courage of the animal. A friend of mine 
belonging to the 21st regiment, M.N.I., who was slowly 
recovering from an attack of fever, finding some difficulty 
in masticating the food before him, questioned his servant 
as to the cause, when he discovered that the fellow had 
purchased a small piece of my tiger, which he had 
clandestinely introduced into his master's currie. When 
my friend got well, young Zaddie firmly believed that 
his remedy had eflFected the cure. 

On the Rajah's visiting some poor Dyaks in November, 
1850, located on the Quop branch of the Sarawak river, 
so strongly impressed were they with the idea that 
sagacity and intelligence might be instilled into the human 
frame through the channel of the throat, that, at a feast 
given to celebrate his visit, the elders of both sexes, 
taking from a cauldron a handful of rice, which some of 
the party were cooking in the centre of the apartment, 
brought it to the " Tuan Besar" (Great Sir), to spit 
on, and the mixture thus made they swallowed with 
peculiar gusto, the younger branches applying to the 
Rajah's European attendants for a similar relish to 
their meal. 



14 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

Although out on several occasions, I was never 
fortunate enough to fall in with a live tiger. With wild 
hog we occasionally had good sport. With my friend, 
Dr. Oxley, who seldom misses his bird, I had some good 
snipe-shooting, but it requires a companion acquainted 
with the locality to obtain sport. Deer are occasionally met 
with. The naturalist will find no end of amusement in the 
jungle ; there are varieties of the monkey ; the Pteromys 
(flying squirrel) is common ; but the most extraordinary 
creature is the Pteropus, or flying fox, of which Dr. Oxley 
writes, " I may add several species of the bat tribe, 
amongst them, that most destructive one to all fruits, the 
flying fox or Pteropus : fortunately, however, they are as 
yet scarce, but at no distance from us they are numerous 
beyond count. I have seen a flock of them, whilst 
anchored in the straits of Malacca, so large, as to take 
several hours in passing ;'' and the editor of the " Journal 
of the Indian Archipelago," states in a note, " A colony 
is at present located in a mangrove creek at the head of 
the estuary of the Johore. In the day they may be seen 
asleep hanging in millions from the branches of the 
mangroves. At sunset they begin to stir, and presently 
they ascend into the air, and wing their way to the south- 
ward in one vast interrupted cloud. They pass the whole 
night in the jungle and plantations devouring fruit, and 
as soon as dawn begins to appear, they mount the air 
again, and return to their roosting-place at the head of 
the estuary." Dr. Oxley adds, " Their flesh is eaten by 



FLYING FOXES. 16 

the natives, but no real fox smells to my mind one half 
so rank as they do ; methinks a rat would be palatable 
food compared with them/' I have frequently seen them 
when fresh caught : they make scarcely any attempt at 
escape, and are very gentle, frequently licking the hand 
of their captors ; the skin is beautiftilly soft, the head is 
like that of a miniature fox. 



16 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO, 



CHAPTER II. 



RBW HARBOUR — BAIL FROM 8IK0AP0RK — SAHTOBONO — EXCITEMERT AT THl RAJAH's 

RETURN — ST. PIERRB'S MiEANDBR PROCEEDS UP THB RIVER — REJOICINGS 

KUCBING ^EARLIEST VIEWS AND MOVEMENTS OF SIR JAMES BROOKE. 

While preparations were making for the establishment 
at Labuan, the Mceander refitted in the snug and 
picturesque New Harbour, which appears to have been 
overlooked in selecting the firat points of settlement ; the 
only objection to it as a harbour is the intricacy of 
the eastern entrance ; a difficulty which, by the introduc- 
tion of steam, has become of little consequence. No 
place could be better adapted for a coal depot ; and, as a 
harbour for a man-of-war to refit, it is most convenient. 
The forge can be landed, boats repaired, and the artificers 
employed under commodious sheds, and all under the 
immediate eye of the officers on board. It has another 
great advantage over Sincapore roads ; in the latter 
anchorage a ship's bottom becomes more foul than in any 
other that I know of, — perhaps from the near proximity to 
the bottom ; this is not the case in New Harbour, through 



OFF SARAWAK. 17 

which there is always a tide running. Although it has 
the appearance of being hot and confined, surrounded as 
it is by high land, we did not find it so in reality : 
generally there is a current of air inside, while the ships 
in the stagnant and crowded roads are often becalmed. 

On 29th August we re-embarked Sir James Brooke, 
who proposed calling at Sarawak on our way to Labuan ; 
the Lieutenant-Gk)vemor was to follow in the PMegethon 
steamer, after the arrival of the mail. 

Right glad was I again to find myself, accompanied by 
Sir James Brooke, approaching the coast of Borneo. Five 
years had elapsed since we were last together there, — 
under circumstances, perhaps, of greater interest, although 
at the moment less auspicious. He seemed then to have 
no other resources, nor means of carrying out his truly 
philanthropic views than his own brave heart, manly 
bearing, and sincerely good intentions. 

On the 2nd September, being near Santobong, we sent 
a boat up to Sarawak, and that evening we anchored off 
the Marotabus entrance, imder Tanjong Poe. 

It was while under this point, in 1839, in the Royalist 
yacht, that Sir James for the first time witnessed a 
native skirmish : an attack was made by some Sakarran 
marauders on a small boat of Sarawak Malays, who had 
accompanied him on a short pleasure excursion. 

The news of our approach having reached Kuching* by 
the boat which we had despatched the previous afternoon, 

* KachiDg is the name of the capital town of the provinoe of Sarftwak. 





18 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

as our avant-courievy by the Santobong entrance, we now 
saw coming towards us with the last of the ebb a few 
prahus, the advance-guard of a whole fleet, which was 
hastening to welcome their beloved chief It had been 
the Rajah's intention to reach his capital without any 
fuss; but by a letter from Mr. Crookshank he learned 
that the whole population had been thrown into a state of 
the greatest excitement^ and not an individual would 
remain at home, who could procure a conveyance down 
the river. The following morning presented, indeed, a 
lively and exciting scene ; the whole Sarawak population 
appeared to be afloat; all their largest and finest boats 
had been put into requisition, and came with tomtoms 
beating, streamers and colours flying. 

The first boat which came alongside contained the 
Bomean Princes, the survivors of the Brunfe massacre, and 
relatives of poor Muda Hassim. Among them I recognised 
Pangueran Omar AUi, with a desperate wound in the 
face : he had also a frightfiil gash across the breast 
He had a narrow escape, having been attacked while 
asleep. 

While I was on deck, waiting to receive their Royal 
Highnesses in proper form, they found their way into the 
presence of the Rajah through the quarter gallery 
window, thereby evading all ceremony. The pleasure on 
both sides at meeting was imfeigned : and, indeed — set- 
ting aside those social ties which must bind us all more or 
less to the land of our birth, — no one, witnessing the real 



ST. PIERRR'S. 19 

delight which the return of Sir James Brooke afforded 
these simple people, could wonder at his preferring the 
country, where such a reception awaited him, to colder, 
if more civiUsed, England. 

With the first of the flood tide our Rajah embarked in 
the MtBander^s barge ; and, quitting the ship under a 
salute and manned yards, attended by his picturesque 
fleets he proceeded up the river. 

After Sir James's departure we stood out to sea again, 
in seardi of our small tender, the Jolly Baclielor. Off 
Tanjong Datu we hoisted out our boom boats, and sending 
them to the north and south, we stood ourselves towards 
St. Pierre's. 

At a distance St. Pierre's has the appearance of two 
islands ; but, on approaching, we found the parts 
connected by a white coral-bank, which appeared as if it 
would have been dry at low water. We stood within a 
cable's length on the south and east, as well as on the 
south-west sides, without finding any bottom with the 
hand-leads. We afterwards met the tender off the 
entrance of the Sarawak river ; but, darkness coming on, 
we brought up half-way between it and Tanjong Poe. 

It took us three days to get up to the Quop, owing to 
the fi:^shets we experienced. There was no flood tide, 
and not sufficient wind to render the ship governable 
under canvass ; for certainly the Mceander was the largest 
ship ever seen, or likely to be seen, in this river. 

I took up my old quarters in the Rajah's house, and 

2 



20 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

found him surrounded, as formerly, by a happy and 
contented people. His reception by them had been most 
gratifying to him : it was late in the evening before the 
flotilla arrived, and every house was illuminated with 
rows of lamps, which were reflected on the smooth surface 
of the river for more than two miles, having a very pretty 
effect. 

Although we found Euching greatly improved as 
regards size and importance, it was not so in appearance. 
We missed the magnificent jungle forest close to the backs 
of the picturesque native houses that faced the edge of 
the river. Bare hills, studded with black stumps of trees, 
which had been burnt to make room for roads and 
cultivation, now showed above the houses. 

Before entering into any fiirther description of the 
province of Sarawak, it may be well to recapitulate, as 
briefly as possible, what I stated in a former work, as to 
the motives which first induced Sir James Brooke to visit 
this country ; it will be usefiil also to glance over 
subsequent events, up to the present time. 

"I had," observes Sir James Brooke in an early 
journal, "for some years turned my mind to the 
geography of the Indian Archipelago, and cherished an 
ardent desire to become better acquainted with a 
country combining the richest natural productions with 
an unrivalled degree of luxuriant beauty. Circumstances 
for a time prevented my entering on this field for 
enterprise and research ; and when the barriers were 



RETROSPECTIVE. 21 

remoTed I had many preparations to make, and some 
difficulties to overcome/' 

Mr. Brooke finally sailed firom England in his schooner 
yacht the Royalist^ of 142 tons, on the 16th December, 
1838, and he arrived at Sincapore on the 1st of June, 1839. 
Thence he sailed for Borneo on the 28th July. His first 
intention had been to proceed to Maludu Bay ; but, 
hearing that the Rajah Muda Hassim, who then governed 
that part of the island called Borneo Proper, was at 
Sarawak, he determined on proceeding up the river to the 
capital town of Kuching. He was kindly welcomed by 
the Rajah, who did not usually reside at Sarawak, but 
was at that time detained there by a rebellion in the 
interior. The population was then about 1500 persons, 
chiefly the followers of the Rajah and of his fourteen 
brothers, who also had their ordinary residence elsewhere. 

On the 21st August, leaving the yacht in the river, and 
having obtained permission, Mr. Brooke, accompanied by 
some chiefe, proceeded on his first excursion into the inte- 
rior, visiting Sibnow, Samarahan, and other places removed 
fi-om the seat of civil war. He returned on the 25th. On 
the 30th, he made another excursion, and visited a tribe 
of Dyaks up the Sundu river. These visits are most 
interestingly described in his published journal. 

On the 9th September, and on subsequent days, Mr. 
Brooke had interviews with the Rajah, during which trade 
and various other topics were discussed, and a reci- 
procal confidence and good feeling appears to have been 



22 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

established. At these mterviews a cunning and intel- 
ligent Malay, named Macota^ was generally present. This 
man was of superior education, and appears to have gained 
much of Mr. Brooke's confidence, as did also Muda 
Mahommed, who was own brother to Muda Hassim, and 
a good man on the whole, though subject to fits of 
sulkiness. 

On the 23d, Mr. Brooke, leaving the Royalist off the 
mouth of the river, and accompanied by two Panguerans, 
Subtu and Illudeen, visited the river Sadong, of which 
the Songi is a branch, where he made the acquaintance of 
Seriff Sahibe, by whom he was entertained. Datu 
Jembrong, an lUanun and pirate, lived near. Mr. Brooke 
described him as at that time somewhat advanced in years, 
stout) and with a resolute air, but of a most polite 
demeanour ; — as oily-tongued a cut-throat> indeed, as a 
gentleman need wish to associate with. Having made 
these and other acquaintances, Mr. Brooke, on the 
3rd October, again took leave of Muda Hassim, and 
returned to Sincapore. 

On the 20 th November, he started on his interesting 
visit to the Celebes Islands, of which an account is 
published in Captain Mundy's work, after which he again 
returned to Sincapore, where he refitted, but was detained 
some time longer by ill health. 

It was the end of August, 1840, before he made his 
second visit to Sarawak. He found the people in much 
the same state as at his first visit ; but there was some 



MUDA HASSIM. 23 

talk of more decisiye measures for bringing the civil war 
to a close. He renewed his friendly visits to the Rajah, 
and states in his journal that '^ their good understanding 
knew no interruption." 

" October 2nd,'' observes Mr. Brooke, " lying at Sarawak, 
losing valuable time, but> pending the war, difficult to get 
away. Whenever the subject is mentioned, Muda Hassim 
begs me not to desert him just as it is coming to a close, 
and daily holds out prospects of the arrival of various 
Dyak tribes. 

'^ The Rajah urged upon me that he was deceived and 
betrayed by the intrigues of Panguerans, who aimed at 
alienating from him the affections of his countrymen ; and 
that, if I left him, he should probably have to remain here 
for the rest of his life, being resolved to die rather than 
yield to the unjust influence which others were seeking to 
acquire over him ; and he appealed to me whether, after 
our friendly communication, I could, as an English gentle- 
man^ desert him. Under such circumstances, I felt that 
honourably I could not do so ; and, though reluctantly 
enough, I resolved to give him the aid he asked, 
— small indeed, but of consequence in such a petty 
warfere.'* 

On the 8rd, Mr. Brooke started for the seat of war, and 
joined Der Macota, up the river at Leda Tanah. 

I must again refer my readers to the amusing descrip- 
tion he has given to the public of this civil war. The aid 
he afforded soon brought matters to a crisis. The rebels 



24 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO, 

surrendered to him, and he interceded with the Rajah for 
their lives. 

" Those who know the Malay character will appreciate 
the difficult J of the attempt to stand between the monarch 
aiid his victims. I only succeeded when, at the end of 
a long debate — ^I soliciting, he denying — I rose to bid him 
farewell, sa it was my intention to sail directly, since, 
after all my exertions in his cause, if he would not grant 
me the lives of the people, I could only consider that his 
friendship was at an end. On this he yielded.^' The 
wives and children of the principal people were demanded 
as hostages, and were delivered up. 

" Siniawan, the seat of the civil war, dwindled away. 
The poorer men stole off in canoes, and were scattered 
about, most of them coming to Euching. The better 
class pulled down the houses, abandoned the town, and 
lived in boats for a month ; after which, alarmed by the 
' delay, and impelled by hunger, they also fled. Patingue 
Gapoor, it was said, betook himself to Sambas ; and the 
Patingue Ali and the Tumangony sought a retreat among 
the Dyaks.'' 

I have stated this much to enable those of my readers, 
who may not have had an opportunity of perusing Mr. 
Brooke's early journal, to form an idea of some of the 
moving causes which induced my friend to allow himself to 
be invested with the Government of Sarawak. It was from 
no sordid nor ambitious views, but from truly philmithn>pic 
motives. He had acquired some experience ; and he 



MR. BROOKE'S VIEWS. 25 

clearly saw that, if he could succeed in removing those 
evils which were a fertile source of oppression and abuse, 
he might live to see Sarawak inhabited by a flourishing 
and happy people* But, if my readers would appreciate 
all the difficulties with which Mr. Brooke had to contend, 
they must be referred to his early journals, which are 
already well known. What he has accomplished since 
their appearance, up to the present time, I shall endeavour 
to state in another chapter. 



26 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 



CHAPTER III. 



STATE OF THS PBOYUIOB OF BADOHG — BOBVEAH STOBX — OOMTIBSHCIB AT THB RAJAB*8 
WITH THB HATIYB OHIBFS — ^WILD HOG KILLBD— DBPABTUBB FOB LABUAB — THB 

GOYBBHOB SWOBN IB — DIFFIOHLTIBS OF THB FBW SBTTLBXBBT THB BAB&ACKS'^ 

DBPABTUBB FOB BBVNft — SQUALLS DISA8TBB8 THBBBBT DBPABTUBB FOB 

SnrOAPOBB — 8I0KKB8S AT LABUAN — DBATHS AMOHO THB MABIVBS — ^AEBIYAL AT 
SIBOAPOBB — BBTURN TO LABUAN — 8BP0TS ON BOABD SHIP — INOBBASBD SICKNESS 
AND XOETALITT AT LABUAN — DANQBBOUS ILLNB8S OF THB OOYBBITOB — HB BXBABBS 
ON BOABD THB KBANDBB, AND PBOOBBDS ON A CEUISB. 

I SHALL now proceed to describe what we saw during 
our necessarily short visit at Sarawak, and then relate 
a few subsequent events. Although Sir James Brooke 
had, previously to his departure in 1847, appointed proper 
persons to conduct the afiairs of the province during his 
short stay in England, still the evils of lax government 
within, and the effect of renewed piracy without, were dis- 
cernible. He had not time, before departing with us for 
Labuan, to restore matters to the state which he intended 
they should resume. 

The province of Sadong, from its vicinity to that of 
Sarawak, lay immediately under the eye of the Rajah, 
and enjoyed, by virtue of his protection, a large share of 



PIRATICAL CONSPIRACY. 27 

the prosperity of Kuching. In this province Sir James 
detected a conspiracy, which had for its real object the 
re-establishment of slavery and piracy. 

To nip this in the bud, he at once prepared a force to 
send to Sadong ; and an excellent opportunity thus 
presenting itself for introducing our boats to the Bomean 
river service, four of them, under chai^ of Lieutenant 
Bowyear, accompanied the expedition. They returned 
in a few days, having succeeded in all the objects for 
which they went. The principal agents in the con- 
spiracy were brought to account for their conduct 
before the " Tuan Besar '^ (Great Sir), and from one of 
them the origin of the conspiracy was worked out. It 
appeared that, immediately after Mr. Brooke's departure 
for England, young Seriff Ahmed, the son of my old 
acquaintance Seriff Jaffer (since dead), entered into a 
correspondence with Seriff Mullah. Ever since the 
destruction of his village and property up the TJndop by 
the Didoes boats in 1844, the said Seriff Mullah had been 
living in the Sakarran country, for the purpose, it was 
said, of collecting the disaffected, who had made their 
escape on the destruction of their piratical strongholds at 
the different towns and fortifications, viz., at Padi, Pakoo, 
Bembas, Patusen, TJndop, &c. Their object now was to 
establish head-quarters, and to fortify themselves, in Seriff 
Sahibe's old place, up the Sadong; and from thence to 
afford every encouragement and protection to the Sarebas 
pirates, sharing with them the plunder, of which they 



28 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

wauld be sure to obtain abundance, especially from the 
extensive and increasing trade now carried on by their 
neighbours of Sarawak. But 

^ Man proposes, and God disposes." 

The people of the Linga^ with whom young Ahmed lived, 
were at enmity with the Sarebas. 

One day, as Ahmed was returning down the river from 
a visit to his friend Mullah, he was waylaid by the very 
men with whom he was about to form an alliance ; they 
endeavoured to murder him and the whole of his crew, 
and they so nearly succeeded, that out of eighteen one 
man only escaped to tell the tale. This was pretty well 
for " inoffensive traders!^ 

The Rajah's return, — so unexpected by these worthies, 
— and his decisive measures, at once overawed the 
instigators of these proceedings ; and the appearance of 
the Mceandei's boats for a time checked the equipment 
of the Sarebas war-prahus. 

September 13th. We were joined by the Auckland 
steamer, which called in the river on its way to Labuan. 
With the Lieutenant-Governor came Sir James's nephew. 
Captain Brooke Johnson Brooke, heir-apparent to the 
Rajahship. He will not forget the first night he passed 
on the river, in my gig, between the Quop and the town. 

Anxious to avoid the heat of the sun, we did not leave 
the Mceander until late in the evening, starting at about 
ten o'clock. One of those fearfrd storms peculiar to 
Borneo came on : the rain fell in such torrents that the 



FEASTS AT SARAWAK. 29 

men had to take their hats, in addition to the regular 
balers, to keep the boat free ; the vivid flashes of light- 
ning, followed by intense darkness and crashing peals of 
thunder, dazzled, blinded, and confused; and when the 
men recovered their oars after baling the water out, we 
knew not which way to steer. We were, however, 
fortunate in reaching Euching before daylight. 

Among other interesting events which we witnessed 
during oiur short stay were two feasts,— one given by the 
Rajah to the chiefs and people, the other by the Datus to 
Sir James. At the Datus' we were received by the still 
pretty and graceful Inda, mother of Patima, the youthful 
heiress to all the Datu Gapoor's property, whose beauty 
has now attained for her a wide celebrity throughout the 
Malayan Archipelago. She besprinkled us with coloured 
rice and gold-dust, to which was added a gentle shower 
of rose-water from an utensil, the commoner use of which 
was yet unknown among these kind and simple people. 
After we had taken our seats, verses from the Koran were 
chaunted, the book being handed from one to another, 
but without any regard to precedence or sanctity, the 
man with the strongest lungs taking the longest pull 
at it; then came feasting, with the most undeniably 
excellent curries. 

On the 21st September, a Bechara (talk) held at the 
Rajah's house was the principal and most important event. 
Every part of the audience-chamber was crowded ; light 
and air were almost excluded by the multitude of eager 



30 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

figices that filled the openings which served for windows. 
We were in fiill uniform, and found it oppressively hot. 

The business commenced by the chief of each depart- 
ment welcoming back the Rajah. 

The Europeans presented him with a rich and valuable 
sword. Then came the Rajah's speech, — in the course of 
which he presented each of the Datus with a handsome 
state sword, and afterwards introduced to the people his 
heir-presumptive, his probable successor in the govern- 
ment of Sarawak. 

A new flag, which the Rajah had brought from 
England, was then unfurled for the first time — displaying 
a black and red cross on a yellow field. This was to be 
henceforth the national flag of Sarawak. It was hoisted, 
and saluted in due form, the Mceander^s band by a lively 
air contributing to the effect. 

A very complimentary portion of the Rajah's speech 
was devoted to the Captain of the frigate, — " Who had 
been," said the speaker, "particularly selected by Her 
Britannic Majesty for the present honom'able service, 
because he had on a former occasion, in conjunction with 
some of this distinguished audience, assisted in the 
destruction of many piratical strongholds, — a fiiend to 
the good but a scourge to the evil doer.'' During this 
speech, which, although it lasted more than an hour, 
was delivered in the native language with extraordinary- 
fluency, a deferential and complete silence prevailed. 
At its conclusion pipes and cigars were introduced ; we 



WILD HOG. 31 

threw oflF our jackets, and, appeiaring in full Sarawak 
uniform, viz., shirts and trowsers only, we discussed with 
less ceremony, and more comfort, the past, the present^ 
and the future. 

On one of the nights during our stay at Sarawak we 
were disturbed by a couple of shots, fired in the garden 
adjoining Mr. Ruppell's bungalow, in which I was billeted. 
On reaching the spot, we found a huge hog making his 
last gasp. His epicurean taste for yams and pine-apples 
had long made him a great nuisance hereabouts; but, 
his agility being as remarkable as his appetite — enabling 
him to clear at one bound a six-foot high logwood fence 
— he had eluded all attempts of the Sarawak sportsmen 
to stop his gastronomic career. At length, however, one 
" Peter " was too cunning for him : he verified the 
proverb about the pitcher which comes too often to the 
welL The exact height of this monster was three feet 
four inches : within his expanded jaws a small child 
might have stood upright. 

We should have liked a longer sojourn at Sarawak, 
but our new settlement had to be attended to. 

On the 23rd September, the Maander dropped down 
and anchored off Tanjong Poe ; and on the morning of 
the 25th we sailed for Labuan. 29th September we 
anchored in Victoria Harbour, Labuan. 

Temporary residences, consisting of small square 
cottage sheds raised about four feet from the ground, as 
all Malay buildings are, on piles, had been erected ; but 



82 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

they did not look very inviting. The flat selected for the 
settlement was below the level of the sea^ from the 
encroachments of which it was protected by a self-formed 
bank. It had a swampy, mihealthy appearance. How- 
ever, it is not for Englishmen to foresee difficulties, and 
the Grovemor landed in all due form, under a salute from 
the McBander. Sir James Brooke and Mr. Napier were 
duly sworn in, and thus commenced the government of 
Labuan. 

All provisions were ruinously dear — but the greatest 
difficulty with which the new settlers had to contend was 
the want of labourers ; those obtained were chiefly slaves, 
belonging to certain Malay chie& on the Borneo side, 
who could recal their men at any moment. The few 
Elings and Chinese who had come over from Sincapore, 
had been spoiled by high wages and drink. 

It is supposed that our old friend, Der Macota, had 
been busy in preventing the transmission of either men 
or supplies of any sort from Borneo. The following is 
a proof of the vindictive feeling evinced towards us by 
the Panguerans. A few Chinese carpenters went over 
to Brunfe from Labuan ; and, while there, they were visited 
by some Malay women. Three of these women were sum- 
moned into the presence of the Sultan and Macota ; one of 
the women was attended by her two infants, who clung to 
her dress on either side. An executioner, in attendance 
behind, with a parang lopped ofi* the little arms of the 
children — after which the three women were krissed. 



SQUALL. 33 

A much more eligible and healthy spot than the site 
of our sheds had been selected for the barracks. They 
were to stand on higher ground^ and, when fit for use, 
were to be occupied by a detachment of Madras Native 
troops, from the Straits settlement. 

On the 6th October we again received on board the 
Governor and his staff, — his Excellency purposing to pay 
a visit of ceremony to the Sultan of Borneo, as well as 
to arrange with him certain matters of business* We 
hoisted out the launch before quitting the harbour^ there 
being no place in which the open sea was likely to be 
smooth enough to enable us to do so with safety. 

The next day, the 7th October, we were taken in a 
heavy squall, with the launch and our small steanl-tender 
in tow ; and, before the sail could be got off, the launch — 
which was a bad imitation of the boats used on the north- 
west coast of Spain — took a dive, and turned bottom 
upwards. Our steam-tender, likewise in tow, did not take 
in so much as a spoonfrd of water. 

We succeeded in picking up the two ^at-keepers, and 
the greater part of the gear : at the same time we came to 
an anchor for the purpose of hoisting in the launch, which 
was considerably damaged by her short tow under water. 
While we were thus employed, the Royalist hove in sight, 
under jurymasts, having been dismantled. She had left 
us on the evening of the 5th for Sincapore, and had been 
caught in the same squall with ourselves. I do not 
remember ever to have seen so complete a wreck, as fiBir 



34 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

as spars and rigging were concerned. She was caught 
while in stays, and head to wind ; the bobstays had given, 
and the forestays had brought the bowsprit in-board ; 
this had been carried away just outside the knight- 
heads, and was now laid alongside the foremast, which, 
with the other three masts, lay amidships, fore and afit 
the deck. 

Leaving the Royalist at Labuan to refit, and a volunteer 
party of Marines to do duty on shore, we sailed on 14th 
October for Sincapore. 
. The wind holding from the S.W., we went out to the 
eastward and northward of the island, taking advantage 
of the pilotage of Lieut. Gordon, commanding the 
Royaiisty who was particularly well qualified to show us 
the way, having lately completed an excellent survey of 
the island and adjacent coast. After he had left us, 
and before losing sight of Labuan, we passed over an 
extensive coral shoal to the N.W., the sounding varying 
from four to four and a half fathoms for several miles ; 
such an uncertain bottom rendered it most unpleasant 
cruising-ground for a forty-four gun frigate. 

On our passage, symptoms of fever began to show them- 
selves among the party of Marines, who had been first sent 
to do duty at Labuan ; one of them, a private, died on the 
17th, and a corporal two days after: they were both 
promising young men. These casualties caused us to 
feel very anxious about the poor fellows who were still 
doing duty there. 



SEPOYS ON BOARD SHIP. 35 

We made a long and tedious voyage to Sincapore, 
not arriving until the 3 1st. 

The Admiral immediately despatched the Auckland 
Steamer, which returned with the Royalist in tow, on the 
1 6th of November, bringing accounts of the progress made 
in the barracks for the Sepoy troops, as well as of the 
sickly state of all those who were located on the flat. It 
was decided, that we should embark a company of the 
21st Native Infantry, under charge of my friend. Captain 
Douglas Hamilton. This we did on the morning of the 
22nd ; and sailing immediately afterwards, on the evening 
of the sixth day we anchored off one of the islands 
outside Labuan. It was well that we made so quick a 
passage : the poor Sepoys, who were as docile and 
obhging as they could be, under the circumstances, and 
appeared grateftd for the arrangements we had made for 
their comfort, were still not happy. When they came on 
board we had just refitted, and had beeti fresh painted. 
Now John Sepoy is a clean animal on shore, when he can, 
without being seen, get rid of the red juice produced by 
the betel-nut and chunam, which he is constantly masti- 
cating ; but, when he is so situated that one sees 
everything about him besmeared with the stains of the 
nasty-looking liquid, superadded to the influence of sea- 
sickness, then is he a very changed and unattractive 
creature. We gave our Sepoy troops one side of the 
main-deck entirely to themselves. 

The Rajhpoots of the company being, next to the 

d2 



36 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

Bramahs^ the highest caste in Hindoostan, could not, of 
course, cook their rice at the same fire, nor drink of the 
same water as that used by those of lower caste ; nor 
could the lowest follower of these soldiers condescend to 
cook where our men daily dressed large portions of the 
unclean beast. Such a proceeding would, indeed, have been 
an abomination not to be got over ; so that we had to erect 
two cooking-places, independent of our galley-fire, and to 
hoist on board casks of water, which they had themselves 
provided and filled. The few poor fellows, whose stomachs 
were strongest, would appear in a morning with their 
little brass pots of water to perform their ablutions. 
They clean out the mouth with the forefinger, thrusting 
it well into the throat, which generally had the eflfect of 
accomplishing that which the unpleasant motion of the 
ship might have failed to do. 

On landing at Labuan I almost dreaded enquiring into 
the state of the poor fellows we had left behind. We 
found the whole colony sick : some Marines had died, 
many others were seriously ill ; and, of all the survivors, 
the poor Governor himself was in the worst condition. 
He had been delirious, and lay apparently with but little 
hope of recovery ; and his favourite medical attendant, 
Dr. Treacher, in whom he had every confidence, was 
nearly as bad as himself I saw that some steps should 
be immediately taken ; and, making my way to the sick 
bed side, I begged Sir James to prepare for removal on 
the morrow, ^ving him the choice of the Attckland or the 



SITE OF LABUAN. 37 

Mceander. Having a particular dislike to the motion of a 
steamer, he selected the latter, in spite of our wretched 
accommodation ; but I saw that no time was to be lost. 
Feeling better in the morning, Sir James undertook to 
sign a few papers : he fainted twice during the day ; and, 
when I called, just before sunset, with a boat's crew to 
convey him on board, he was so exhausted that our 
surgeon declared that it would be dangerous to remove 
him ; with great reluctance therefore on my part, he was 
left to imbibe for another night the fetid and pestilential 
air of the Labuan plain. 

The selection of such a site for the town of Labuan has 
been, not unnaturally, criticised. Several considerations 
appeared at first to recommend it, while the objections 
were thought to be such as time and skill would overcome. 
The site fixed upon lay on the bay which hiid been 
selected by all the naval oflBcers, who had visited the 
island, as the best harbour for shipping. It presented 
a beautiful beach, with a broad level plain behind it, for 
building operations. It was here that Captain Mundy 
hoisted the English ensign, when the island was taken 
possession of as a British colony. As to its malarious 
character, that was believed to be temporary, and to 
proceed from the fresh-water swamp lying behind the plain, 
which admitted of being thoroughly drained. Doubts, 
however, have been raised whether the sickness pro- 
. ceeded fi'om the fi^esh-water swamp, or fi'om the exposed 
coral reefs which abound in the vicinity of the harbour. 



38 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

The site of the town has since been changed, the plain 
has been drained; and I have not lately heard any 
complaints of unhealthiness, beyond those common to 
most tropical climates. 

The following morning Sir James felt better, and I 
received a note from the A. D. C, to say that his imcle 
would be ready to embark in the cool of the evening. 
At five o'clock I had the satisfaction of receiving him on 
board ; but how altered ! I supported him to his cabin ; 
and, that he might have a change of air, although never 
so slight, we immediately got under weigh, and proceeded 
as far as the ^t disappearing daylight would allow. At 
seven o'clock we came to, off Collier Point. 



INVALID CRUISE. 39 



CHAPTER IV. 



AHCHOB OFF KlHANIfi^— OOMMUNICATK WITH TBB OBAHO KATA — dOAT ARRIVES 
FROM WBKOK OF THS MIKBRYA — CURIOUS SWARM OF BBSS — SAIL FROM KIM AMIS — 

KIHI BALU MOUNTAIN AND 80BNBRY WRBOK OF MINBRVA FOUND PLUNDBRBD 

AND BURVT — BALAMBAMQAN HAULINQ THE SBINB — SSBIFF HUSSEIN aVIUTT 

OF THE CHIEFS — SPORTINO SIMPAN MANJIOW MALLAWALLER — DEATH OF JOUH 

JA60— CAGATAN SOLOO REMARKABLE INLAND BASIN — CHRISTMAS DAT. 

Sir James Bbooke had duties to perform, as Her 
Majesty's Commissioner to the Sultan of Borneo, and the 
chiefs of the Malayan Archipelago ; but he was only just 
able to indicate to me the direction in which he would 
wish to go. Om* chief object being the restoration of his 
health, we managed by keeping the ship under easy sail 
during the day, and by anchoring in the evening, to give 
him the advantage of undisturbed rest at night. Among 
the invaUds, there had come on board with the Governor 
his nephew and A. D. C, Captain Brooke, whose attack 
of fever was just coming on, — poor Dr. Treacher, a mere 
shadow of what he was, — ^young Charles Grant, also 
suflFering from fever, and the good-tempered Spencer 
St. John, whose kindness to the sick had been unabated. 



40 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

On Monday 4th we weighed at daylight, and with fair 
wind, smooth water, and fine weather, coasted along in the 
direction of Pulo Tiga, the scenery increasing in beauty aa 
we got to the northward. Running between Pulo Tiga and 
Tanjong Ealias, we shaped a course E. by S. for the entrance 
to the Kimanis river, up which there was a fine old Orang 
Kaya (Chief Man), Isteer by name, a friend of our Rajah. 

It was dark when we came to, in six fathoms, about 
three quarters of a mile oflF shore, and two to the westward 
of the entrance, — ^a good hit, considering that we had run 
the last twelve miles without seeing the land; nor is 
there by daylight any remarkable point to indicate the 
position of the river. This was formerly, a great haunt of 
the Lanuns, and other thieves. 

The following morning, 6th December, having obtained 
the necessary information fi*om some native fishing-boats, 
we sent the second gig up the river, to inform the Orang 
Kaya of the Rajah's arrival, as well as to solicit a pilot 
for the river Mengatal, where we intended to get another 
for Maludu Bay. Sir James had been informed of piratical 
combinations and doings in Labok Bay ; and, after calling 
at Maludu for information, it was his intention to proceed 
there. 

A cutter followed the gig, filled with amateurs, whose 
description of the river agreed with the favourable one 
given by Captain Mundy. 

Afler crossing the bar, in which they found little more 
than two feet water, they got immediately into fi'edi 



KIMANIS. 41 

water ; and, pulling up for two miles and a half the 
prettiest stream imaginable, about a hundred yards wide, 
they came to the picturesque village of Eimanis. Here 
the houses, gardens, tropical plants, orchards, and orna- 
mented ground showed an improved state of civilisation : 
they found cattle, poultry, and stock of various kinds. 
On their way back they shot an alligator, and a couple of 
monkeys, with a few birds. 

The worthy Orang Kaya, a man of most polished 
manners (as the higher class of Malays always are), came 
himself on board, to pay his respects to the Kajah, and to 
offer his services as pilot ; he brought a present of a calf, 
and some finit. Our purser failed in obtaining a supply of 
fresh bee^ the price of a bullock having reached ten dollars, 
— ^more than double the sum formerly asked for one. 

I had intended to go up in the cool of the next mommg, 
but in that I was disappointed, as in the afternoon the 
unusual appearance, in these waters, of a boat with a 
European sail was reported, coming down along shore 
from the northward ; she reached us just before sunset, 
and proved to belong to the Minerva schooner, bringing 
the master and mate of that vessel, which they had left on 
a coral bank near Balambangan. 

In the master, Mr. Lonsdale, I recognised an old 
acquaintance, who formerly commanded the Maria^ one 
of the transports under convoy of the Dido, diuing the 
Chinese war ; he stated that, having run on the ree^ and 
finding that his vessel could not be got off without being 



42 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

lightened, he was throwing her cargo, which was of teak, 
overboard, when he observed several prahus coming out 
from under a point of land ; having no arms wherewith to 
defend himself, he had taken to his long-boat with the few 
valuables he could hastily collect, maimed by his Lascar 
crew, making eighteen in alL Ten of the Lascars after- 
wards left him^ on his landing at a part of the island for 
fuel and water ; he then went on, intending to coast down 
as far as Labuan, and there seek assistance. 

These prahus, from whom Mr. Lonsdale, in his discre- 
tion, made such a precipitate retreat, might have been 
inoflfensive, peaceable traders ; but, not having then read 
the opinion of some of those gentlemen in England who 
hve at home at ease, and having himself served in these 
seas, he thought it just as well to make sure of keeping 
his head on his shoulders, by shunning the honour of a 
visit from such distinguished foreigners, belonging to a 
people whose tastes do occasionally rejoice in a necklace 
of human teeth. 

While we were at morning quarters oflF Kimanis, a swarm 
of bees, attracted perhaps by the sound of the band, came 
round the ship, and finally settled on the under quarter 
of the cross-jack-yard, presenting a most extraordinary 
appearance : by clinging to one another they formed 
themselves into a bag twel\^e or fourteen inches deep, the 
mouth of which, attached to the yard, occupied a space of 
about two feet in length, by one wide, and which was 
shaken and moved about by the wind. Fearing that the 



BEES ON BOARD. 43 

men might get stung on going aloft, I tried to dislodge 
them, first by discharging a musket with a double charge 
of coarse powder at them fi-om the mizzen-rigging, within 
four yards ; this having no effect, it was afterwards fired 
at the same distance with a charge of sand, by which a 
few fell ; the vacancies were immediately filled up, and 
tho bag appeared to stick closer than ever. They 
remained two days, during which time we were twice 
under weigh, making and shortening sail, in each of which 
operations the chain topsail-sheet ran through the centre 
of the bag, and disturbed large portions of them in its 
passage ; but they returned and repaired the damage, as 
soon as the sheet or clewline had been belayed. 

The disaster of the Minerva induced me to defer my 
visit to the village, in order that we might repair to the 
scene of the wreck, and render such assistance as might 
be practicable. Accordingly, early the following morning, 
having hoisted her boat on board, we weighed with a fresh 
southerly wind, which afterwards veered roimd to S.W. 
and W., and ran along the coast about a couple of miles 
off shore, with the noble mountain of Kini-Balu in the 
back ground, raising its magnificent head above the clouds. 
Nothing could be finer than the scene before us ; and the 
day being clear, we did not lose any part of this beautiful 
moving panorama. Our poor invalids were much too ill 
to enjoy it : this was, however, the first day in which I 
had been able to discover the slightest improvement in the 
Governor's appearance. At seven p.m., we came to, within 



44 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

a couple of miles of the wreck, having run in smooth water 
no less than a hundred and twenty miles since the morning. 

8th December. — As might be supposed, when we found 
the wreck, not only had she been completely gutted, but 
she had been burned down to the water's edge, for the 
sake of the copper and iron bolts. We observed a few 
native boats in the distance, making oflF with the plunder. 

The appearance of Balambangan was not inviting ; its 
approaches are shoal and intricate. It was twice occupied 
by the East Indian Government, having been ceded to 
Mr. Dalrymple by the Sultan Amir of Soloo in 1 763, but 
the occupiers for that Government were expelled by the 
Soloo pirates ; and, though afterwards recovered, it was 
eventually abandoned. The Spaniards also once claimed 
possession of Balambangan ; but, when Manilla fell into 
the hands of the English, they lost all hold on this place, 
as well as their other possessions in the Soloo Archipelago. 
The place has a south-west and a north-east harbour. 

There are several convenient spots on which we hauled 
our seine. There is always much excitement in this 
mode of fishing within the tropics, fi'om the great variety 
of fish which are found in the bag of the net. Not 
to mention sharks, swordfish, and a multitudinous 
gathering of specimens more digestible, — ^young alligators 
also, turtle, and often very rare and beautiftd shells are 
brought to land. 

The mouths of large rivers in wooded countries should 
be avoided, on account of the dead logs which lie on -the 



MALUDU BAY. 45 

bottom, half buried in sand, and which generally break 
your net. The time of rising tide I have always found 
the best for fishing : with a falling tide, I imagine, the fish 
go out into deep water. 

December 9th, we weighed, and stood into Maludu 
Bay. On our way we fell in with a native prahu, 
belonging to Seriflf Hussein, a son of the unfortunate 
Seriff Osman, who made such a gallant resistance in 
August, 1845, up the Maludu River, when attacked by 
the boats of the fleet, under Captain Talbot of the Vestal. 
He came on board, not without certain apprehensions 
which he tried in vain to conceal, and was ushered into 
the presence of the " Tuan Besar '* (Brooke), whose name 
alone in these seas appears to insure those who Uke to 
come to him protection and kind treatment. Not much 
information could be gained fi'om this worthy at the first 
interview : during the second, he and the chiefe with him 
admitted that nothing could be worse than the unpro- 
tected state and want of government, under which they 
lived ; that each petty chief quarrelled with and attacked 
his weaker neighbours, while they, in turn, Uved in 
constant dread of an attack from the more formidable 
Pajow, or Soloo pirates. 

We anchored well up the bay, and sent on shore to 
communicate with the chiefe. The following morning a 
deputation came on board, when we were informed of the 
breaking up and dispersion of the Labok Bay pirates. 

These people, who visited the ship, were particularly 



46 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

obliging and civil, and sent their men to show us the best 
shooting-ground, — rather appearing to like our visit, 
although we were not long enough together to establish 
implicit confidence in each other. 

On the 10th, having pulled and poled over a bar, and 
up a shallow salt-water creek, on the east side of the bay, 
a little to the northward of where we had anchored, we 
landed a small shooting party, and were shown some 
particularly likely-looking ground, covered with long 
grass, and intersected in all directions by the fresh tracks 
of wild cattle. A hog was the result of our sport ; but 
three large red deer made their appearance on the edge 
of the jungle, just as the guns had ' been discharged at 
our less dignified game. We were informed, that part of 
the coast near Simpan Manjiow was the best place for 
deer and wild cattle : and as our principal object was to 
establish friendly intercourse with the natives, wherever 
practicable, we weighed in the evening with a light land- 
breeze, and at eight the following morning anchored in 
nine fathoms, near the point of Simpan Manjiow. The 
north-east monsoon having set in, there was a heavy surf 
breaking along the rocky beach. 

We discovered a bar about two miles to the southward, 
on the east side of the cape, over which we found a safe 
passage for the gig, leading into the entrance of a small 
river. On getting inside the bar, we discovered, parallel 
with the line of surf, a smooth-water boat-channel, 
affording a passage the whole way to the cape itself 



SOLOO SEAS. 47 

uninterrupted, except in one particular spot : here was a 
small shelf, about ten yards wide, but we had no diflBculty 
in carrying the gig over it. 

We walked round and explored the ground on the 
western side, which we found well adapted for deer- 
shooting, being a fine open country, interspersed with 
trees, — the ground covered with short grass : there were 
tracks of niunerous cloven-footed animals of aU sizes, but 
it was too early in the day for them to be out feeding. 
Large herds of deer had been seen on a former occasion 
from the Samarangs boats, when they anchored for shelter 
on the western side of the cape. Numerous monkeys, 
while the tide was out, were amusing themselves on the 
sand. 

Another party from the ship explored the coast to the 
southward ; they saw several small deer, but only 
succeeded in getting one. 

On the nth, with our tender, the Jolly Bachelor in 
company, we weighed and stood towards the island of 
Mallawaller, and soon entered among the dangers of the 
Soloo seas. As far as the eye could reach from the 
mast-head, patches of sand and coral banks were visible ; 
but the weather was fine, the water smooth and clear, 
time our own ; and, with our tender sounding a-head, 
we proceeded, nothing daunted by appearances. We 
could always pick our way by daylight, and anchor at 
sunset. With the novel and agreeable duty of making 
ourselves acquainted with the islands of this extensive 



48 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

Archipelago and their inhabitants, we combined the. 
gratification of affording amusement, and, with it, 
restoration of health to some of our poor invalids. 

Mallawaller is surrounded by coral reefe and sand- 
banks. There appears to be a fine harbour to the 
eastward, but certainly no safe entrance for a ship the 
size of the Mceander. Exploring parties landed, and 
the island was well traversed. Some reported having 
seen, and fired at deer; and the appearance of the country 
made it probable that animals would be found there : it 
presented slopes of fresh, green grass, having rills of water 
running between them ; nothing, however, was killed, and 
our shooting parties in the Soloo seas were uniformly 
unsuccessful. The brushwood having been set on fire in 
the evening, the flame spread and advanced with great 
rapidity, presenting a pretty appearance. No traces of 
inhabitants were here discovered, although, from the 
position of the place, its supply of wood and water, and 
the rich appearance of the soil, it should be a favourable 
position for a settlement ; but we concluded that here, as 
well as at many other equally favoured spots, the absence 
of peaceable and settled inhabitants is to be ascribed to 
the want of such regular government as would secure 
protection from the lawless freebooters who infest 
these seas. 

On the 13th, at ten a.m. expired in the prime of life, 
one of our finest young men, John Jago, another victim 
to the Labuan fever : his health had several times 



TWO DEATHS-JAGO, MARTIN. 49 

partially rallied, but two days previous to his death he 
sent to take leave of me^ and' I was some time 
endeavouring to cheer him up. The sick were suspended 
in cots on both sides of the main-deck ; and, when any 
death occurred,, it was difficult to hide from the others 
what had taken place. Jago was the last of the barge's 
crew who was taken ill, and had attended most of his 
companions through their attacks of fever: there was a 
happy expression of countenance, and a generosity 
about this poor fellow, that had endeared him to 
lM)th officers and men. He left me the address of his 
mother, and of a young girl to whom he was 
betrothed. 

On the 15th, we weighed as soon as the sun was 
high enbugh to show uis the dangers, and stood 
under easy sail to the eastward with the tender sounding 
a-hei^i 

After some httle difficulty in winding the ship through 
the shoaH ^uid an occasional scrape on some projecting 
point of coral, that had outgrown the bed to which it 
belonged; we made Cagayan Soloo on the 18th; and 
before coming to an anchor on the eastern side, we 
buried a young Marine, George Martin. 

Dollars not being a current mediimi of exchange among 
most of these islands, glass beads, looking-glasses, coloured 
cottons, &c., had been brought by us for purposes of 
barter ; and, as we were very anxious to obtain a supply 
of bullocks to keep our men in general, as well as the 

R 



50 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

sick, as much on fresh meat as possible, a boat was sent, 
with the purser and the interpreter, accompanied by a 
party of officers, to communicate with a house, which 
struck us in passing — from its size and the planta- 
tions around it — ^as probably belonging to some chief, 
by whose assistance we hoped to get a supply of 
cattle. 

Having got inside the shoals with some difficulty, and 
effected a landing, our party was received in the poUtest 
manner by a fine-looking old Malay, who came down with 
his family to meet them. They made him to understand 
our wants ; and he sent immediately to the chief of the 
district, and acquainted him with our wishes, appointing 
the next morning at nine, as the time to receive the 
chief's answer. Our people left the shore much pleased 
with their friend, who, as I have before remarked of the 
well-bred Malays, was a gentleman, polite, easy, and 
dignified. 

The next morning the same party landed with the 
necessary articles for barter, expecting to meet the chief 
or his deputy, and to make a bargain fi)r the cattle. 
Their friend of the evening before received them in the 
same kind manner. They waited some time in expectar 
tion of the cattle arriving, instead of which, parties of 
natives kept thronging in, well armed with kiis, spear, and 
shield, — their tomtoms beating outside. After a while came 
the chief with a numerous train— himself a humpbacked 
ferocious-looking savage— rwith all his men in padded 



UNFRIENDLY NATIVES. 61 

jackets, and regular fighting costume. He made no reply 
to the questions of our party about bullocks, but kept his 
hand on his kris, and appeared undecided how to act. 
Our party were only eight in number, and destitute of 
arms, with the exception of one gun, the kind behaviour 
of their friend the night before having completely removed 
all suspicion of any sinister behaviour. Surrounded now 
by about sixty well-armed, rascally-looking thieves, of 
hostile demeanour, they thought it best to put on as bold a 
front as possible, and at the same time quietly to retire ; 
nor did they underrate their good fortune in regaining the 
boat without further molestation, the ship being some miles 
distant, and shut out from view by projecting headlands. 
This was a lesson not to venture, in future, out of sight 
jof the ship among the natives of these islands without an 
apparent superiority of force. Their white flags were hung 
out as much for the purpose of entrapping the weak, as 
of bartering with the strong. 

Finding our wishes not likely to he attained, and not 
liking our berth, which was exposed to the eastward, we 
weighed, and ran round to the opposite side of Cagayan 
Soloo. This island, from its size and population, is next 
in importance to Soloo itself. 

The scenery, which presented itsielf to us in these 
wanderings, was the perfection of tropical beauty, with 
just sufficient cultivation to redeem it from the appearance 
of wildness. As we ran past the cottages and small 
villages on the southern shore, the inhabitants shewed 

k2 



52 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

gf eat alacrity in displaying pieces of white doth ; we 
ourselves keeping a white flag constantly flying, to signify 
our reciprocity of good feeling, and our desire to com- 
municate with them. 

Having stood out for the melancholy purpose of 
committing to the deep the body of a Marine, named 
Allan Cameron, a .second victim' within the last eight- 
and-forty hours to the Labuan fever, we came to an 
anchor qn the south-west side, off the principal village of 
Cagayan Soloo, the shoalness of the water not allowing 
ud to approach within three miles of the landing- 
place. ', . . . / 

We encountered here none of the menacing style of 
the rogues on the eastern side ; the people were willing 
to exchange cattle, poultry, and vegetables, for our articles 
of barter — of which red and white cottons were the most 
attractive ; empty bottles and midshipman's anchor-buttons 
fetched their full value. The residents here described 
those on the east side as being bad people, and I have 
no doubt that the humpbacked ruJB^n, whom we had seen 
there, was some noted piratical chie^ wrho by right of 
might had for a time located himself on the island. . Had 
the party we landed been composed of our less reflecting 
young gentlemen^ instead of the senior officers, the rude 
manner of these people would have been in some way 
resented, and the chief would have avenged the mischief 
.we fa^ so often inflicted on those of his *craft> by 
krising the whole party. Had this occurred, they have 



INLAND BASIN, 53 

80 maay hiding-places, fhat we should have had much 
difficulty in finding the- real offenders ; the whole island 
would in consequence have sufGsred, and unayoidably some 
of the innocent, with the guilty. Our friends m the 
village gently opposed any: attempts on our parts to 
penetrate into the interior, and were anxious to get rid 
of us before dark*, As usual/ the women were carefully 
kept out of sight 

Captain Siir Edward Belcher, in describing his voyage 
in these 'seas, mentions havings discovered in the south 
side of Cagayan Soloo a circular inlet of very deep water, 
cut off from the sea by a shallow bar. Being very 
anxious to find this fathomless basin, we kept a good look- 
out from the mast-head ; and a spot answering the 
description having been observed in passing, it was deter- 
mined to sebd aa exploring party the nert day. This 
was done ; and on their return they gave such a worider- 
fiil account of the before-named curious basin, as well as 
of its beauty, that it was decided we should return by 
this route from our cruise, and, anchoring close to the 
basin, take an opportunity to examine it more carefully. 
It was to be hoped that our invalid Rajah would, by that 
time, be sufficiently recovered to accompany us. 

December 22nd. — Weighed, and stood towards Mam- 
bahenauan, a small island to the southward, intending to 
come to for the niight^ but found no anchorage ; . so, the 
sea now being comparatively clear of shoals, we stood to 
the eastward. 



64 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

On the 23r(l, the currents being very uhcertsun, we 
found ourselves among a cluster of islands which the 
charts did not enable us to identify. As we were 
groping about seas very imperfectly surveyed, this neither 
astonished nor alarmed us ; and, while a sandy beach 
offered itself for the seine, and a jungle for the gun, — 
Christmas, too, being at hand, — we selected an eligible 
spot, and came to an anchor. 

On Christmas Day, after the usual routine of muster 
and church, the ship's company were allowed to land, 
taking with them their dinners and small arms, and seek 
amusement in their own way. They appeared to enjoy 
themselves a great deal more than they could have done 
if kept on board, even with a double allowance of grog. 
Although upwards of a hundred men had landed, none of 
them fell in with a native ; nevertheless, natives could not 
be far off, inasmuch as poultry were found running about, 
besides other marks of domestic life and doings. Later, 
however, in the evening, when our people were returning 
on board, I myself landed with Mr. Lonsdale ; and, having 
stroUed to the opposite side of the island, we suddenly 
came upon a long canoe filled with natives, armed to the 
teeth, with spears and krises. They were stealthily 
pushing through a narrow creek that was overhung and 
partially hid by bushes. Our astonishment was, howevei^, 
mutual. After a while, seeing probably that we were 
only two, they made signs for us to approtoh ; but 
not liking the looks of them, although each had a 



ARRIVAL AT SOLOO. 56 

double-barrelled gun, we withdrew without further 
communication. 

On the 26th, we got under weigh, our course lying 
through a very pretty archipelago, whose numerous shoals 
made the navigation doubly interesting. On the 27th, 
we sighted Soloo. 



66 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 



CHAPTER V. 



TOOLTAV — BOLOD ULARDS — ^ISLAHD OF BA1ITLA1I — SAMBOAHOlir — 90CUBU 800IBTT — 
DKPABTT7BK PROM BAMBOAlfOAS — FLBBT OV Oim-BOATS— OOBAL ISLAlfD AWD BMA 
BIRDe— OAOATAH 80L00 — DI800YBBT OV A SBOOHD OIBOULAB LAKE, AJTD 

DISO&IPTION — DBPABTURB FOB BABOXTBT — LABUAH — IXPBOYBMBIITS THIBB 

BIVOAPORB— OBBBBID TO OHIirA ARRIVAL AT HOVO KOVO. 

The island of Soloo, which equals Cagayan in beauty, 
surpasses it in the cultivated richness of its slopes, while 
an improved magnificence is communicated to it from the 
mountains in the interior. Its length, from east to west, 
is about ten leagues, and its breadth four. A good 
sprinkling on the sea of fishing and trading boats, of 
picturesque build and rig, gave to this place a pleasing 
appearance of life and animation, such as we had not 
before witnessed. It was late when we came to an 
anchor here ; but, the ship having been seen from the 
high land long before, we were not surprised by the 
appearance of some bustle taking place in the town : this 
was evidenced by the number of lights moving about 
throughout the night. We imagined, and found it 
afterwards to be the case, that they were removing their 



CITY OF SOLOO. 57 

valuables, vnth their women and children, to the 
mountsuns, as a precaution in the event of our visit being 
of a hostile nature. 

The next morning we found ourselves off the city of 
Soloo (also named Soog), the capital of the Soloo Empire, 
and the abode of its Sultan,— who was at one time all- 
powerful throughout these seas, his influence extending 
to the north and eastern coasts of Borneo. I have 
already mentioned that, in 1775, the Soloos attacked 
and drove the British from Balambangan. Soloo had, 
even then, long been an emporium not only of regular 
traders from most nations, but the head-quarters of those 
piratical marauders who there foimd a ready market for 
enslaved victims and heterogeneous plunder— and whose 
descendants, to this day, are both proud and emulous of 
the deeds of their ancestors. 

> We "had looked forward with much interest to our 
visit to Soloo, and were not, on the whole, disappointed — 
though, perhaps, it may be considered rather curious 
than very interesting. • The English ensign was flying 
over the house which we at once knew must be that of 
Mr. Windham, a gentleman who had for some time been 
connected with these people in a commercial way, and 
resident among them. An officer was sent to com- 
municate with him and obtain information. The town 
is built partly on land and partly on the sea. That part 
which is OB the land, and which might almost be called 
the citadel, was, at the time of our visit, strongly 



58 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

stockaded and flanked with batteries mounting heavy 
guns. The Spaniards have since destroyed these works 
and carried off the guns — a measure which is to be 
regretted. The Sultan, under the influence and counsel 
of the Rajah of Sarawak, had become opposed to piracy, 
and anxious for its suppression. His fortified position 
gave him weight, which he had frequently thrown into 
the scale of humanity : and it must now be feared that 
many, whom he was able to hold in check, will again 
follow their evil propensities unrestrained, as they did 
under previous dynasties. The resentment of Spain, as 
visited on the Sultan of Soloo, seems equally impolitic and 
unjust The pretext was piracy, of which some solitary 
instance may very possibly have been established against 
a Soloo prahu : but the Sultan was certainly sincere 
in his wish to co-operate against that system. There is 
ground to fear that national jealousy was desirous of 
striking its puny blow at an European rival, through the 
degradation of the Sultan of Soloo, — ^that he has incurred, 
in fact, the resentment of the Spanish colonial governors, 
by those commercial treaties with ourselves which were 
but lately concluded by Sir James Brooke. 

That portion of the town which is not within the 
stockades is built in regular Malay fashion, on piles. The 
houses run in rows, or streets ; and outside of them is a 
.platform about six feet wide to walk upon. This is 
supported underneath by a light scaffolding of bamboo. 
These rows of birdcage-looking buildings extend into the 



SOLOO. 59 

sea for half a mile, over a shoal which is nearly dry 
at low water. The population is numerous ; composed 
principally of fishermen and Chinese traders. The said 
platform runs the whole length of the rows; and its 
planks were so carelessly thrown across, that it seemed 
wonderM how the children could escape, if they always 
did escape, Ming through the yawning spaces which 
invited them to a watery, or a muddy grave ; they were 
crawling about these ricketty stages in vast numbers : 
if the tide was out when they fell, they would be received 
into three feet deep of soft mud, supposing always that 
they did not break their little backs across the gunwales 
of the canoes beneath, which were made &st to the 
iscaffolding. Mr. Windham's house was one of those thus 
situated ; and at low water it was necessary for us, who 
wore shoes and stockings, to be carried from the boat, 
and deposited on his accommodation-ladder, where a kind 
welcome awaited us. We found him dressed in Malay 
costume ; and, from long residence among them, he had 
assumed much of both the appearance and manner of a 
native. He willingly undertook the task of commu- 
nicating with the Sultan, and arranging an audience for 
Sir James Brooke. 

The usual salutes were exchanged Mr. Windham 
informed us that a short time previously, when he was 
absent attending the pearl-fishing at the Ceroo Islands, 
two Dutch men-of-war had arrived at Soloo, who, after 
visiting and exchanging the usual salutes, suddenly 



60 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

attacked the town : this accounted for the panic on the 
night of our arrival. The Dutchmen, having fired on the 
town for some time, landed and burnt a few houses, 
paying Mr. Windham the compliment of making particular 
inquiries for his, which they destroyed, with much valuable 
property. The watering-place deserves particular notice, 
— a lovely spot, about a mile and a half to the eastward of 
the town, in a small bight of white sand. The water, 
after being filtered through some hundred yards of porous 
rock, came weUing out in several places through the sand, 
about high-water mark, and as clear as crystal On one 
side of this Uttle bay, and close to the springs, grew a 
magnificent tree of, I think, the Banyan species, throwing 
its shade over an acre of ground. It was a striking object ; 
and served as the trysting-tree, where on market-days the 
mountaineers met the townspeople, to exchange com- 
modities. A mutual distrust appeared to subsist between 
them, the highlanders seldom going into the town, nor 
the townsmen to the moimtains. ' ^ 

The country people are tributary to the Sultan, though 
often refractory subjects ; and a system of clanship 
appears to prevail amongst them. Mr. Windham pointed 
out to us a spot on the beach, between the watering-place 
and the town, as the scene of pu()lic executions ; he also 
informed us that the capital crime most abhorred and 
most severely punished — on the system, a^ we supposed, 
of " honour amojQgst thieves " — ^was theft. The criminal 
being bound to a frame-work, resembling St. Andrew's 



PUBUC EXECUTIONS. 61 

cross, is cut up with a kris at the discretion of the 
executioners, any one being at liberty to exercise his 
taste that way : death is thus rendered either lingering 
or instantaneous, according as the victim may be the 
object of popular dislike or sympathy. A real friend 
would dispatch him at once. Women frequently take 
advantage of such an opportunity of avenging themselves 
for some real or imaginary injury, addressing the unfor- 
tunate wretch, as they detach pieces of flesh from his 
body, in terms little suitable to the " softer sex.^' With 
the identical kris which Mr. Windham then wore, — ^and a 
desperate-looking blade it had, of a wavy form and as 
sharp as a razor, — he had seen a man, at one blow, cut 
open from the shoulder to the heart. The bodies, or 
fragments (for some carry their revenge so &r as to 
mutilate the remains after life is extinct), are left to be 
devoured by dogs and wild pigs. 

Mr. Windham took us a short walk — ^I fency about 
as far as he dared himself venture— into the interior. 
What we saw of the country was highly cultivated ; 
consisting, with intervals of jungle, of pasture grounds 
and gardens, very flourishing and pretty, vrith abundance 
of cattle. Our appearance excited much curiosity with 
the natives, and many questions were asked ; but the 
presence and explanations of Mr. Windham satisfied them. 

Before commencing our watering, it was necessary to 
make certain arrangements, as a French squadron imder 
Admiral CeciUe had been much molested during that 



62 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

operation a short time previous, and an attempt had been 
made to poison the springs ; all necessary precautions, 
therefore, were taken on our part. 

The JoUy Bachelor was first placed a few yards fi'om 
the watering-place, which her howitzers completely 
covered. Our people were then strictly charged to avoid 
offending the natives in any way during their casual 
intercourse ; under these auspices, our watering progressed 
quickly and well. 

The day after we had conmienced was a market-day. 
The mountaineers came down in parties of from six to 
twelve, mounted on well-formed little horses, or oxen, 
according to their rank and means ; on these they sat 
with graceful ease, spear in hand — they were all well 
armed besides, with shield and kris ; in some instances 
also we observed the heavy two-handed Lanun sword. 
They had a wild and independent bearing ; and, when seen 
in groups, some standing, some squatting, the women all 
chattering, under the wide-spreading tree, they much 
increased the interest of the already picturesque scene. 
They seemed indifferent as to the sale of their stock, 
which was conducted chiefly by the women, who freely 
accompanied them., and were by no means ill-favoured. 
The townspeople, who met and traded with these 
mountaineers, were dressed in gayer colours, but not 
so well armed. The stock brought by the latter was 
small — a few fowls, eggs, vegetables, and fruit being their 
staple commodities ; these were exchanged for cottons, 



PRODUCTIONS OF SOLOO. 63 

tinsels, and other baubles. Altogether, though the market 
on this occasion \vas well att^ided, the trade was slack ; 
but I doubt not that, m the palmy days of active piracy, 
a considerable amount of business was transacted under 
the old Banyan tree. 

The fruit at Soloo is plentifiil and good ; the mangoes 
are not so good as those in the Phillippine Islands, but the 
oranges are equal to those of China or of any other 
country- There is the jack and bread-fruit tree, the far- 
famed mangostein, also the pine-apple, and the highly* 
prized, but offensive smeUing durian ; cocoa nuts of course, 
and a great variety of plantain and banana, and others 
whose names I forget. Cinnamon, ginger, and various 
spices likewise grow ; in fact, the soil appeared capable of 
producing whatever the natives might take the trouble to 
cultivate. 

We did not consider it prudent to venture into the 
Ulterior on shooting excursions, but we heard that there 
were partridges and quail, wUd ducks, snipe, and teaL 
Monkeys, doves, and pigeons we saw. The beef we found 
particularly good. We went to see what they call their 
races, which were held in an open space not far from the 
town. We observed groups of savage, but picturesque- 
looking men, mounted on spirited, strong-built little horses, 
of the Manilla or Spanish breed ; these men were generally 
well armed, bearing each a spear or lance. Presently, 
one man would dash out from the rest as a challenge ; 
then a man from another group, or perhaps from the same, 



64 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

9 

would ride up alongside ; then both would start off in a 
line of their own choosing, at a brisk trot, at which kind 
of pace the races were generally contested. On several 
occasions ' I noticed a ruffian, apparently mounted no 
better than his neighbours, start out from the crowd, — 
still no one seemed to accept the challenge. These men 
I found were a sort of bravo, whom nobody cared to 
quarrel vdth, which such an offence as beating them at a 
race vrould be sure to end in. When any of these knovra 
characters came out, they were loudly cheered by the 
spectators. Their seat and gait were awkward in the 
extreme, but they did not seem to think so, and I should 
not have willingly ventured to tell them so. 

December 30th was the day appointed for Sir James 
Brooke's interview with the Sultan of Soloo. We landed 
in full costume at ten o'clock. Having walked over the 
sea suburbs, and arrived at the beach, we found a guard 
of honour and attendants waiting to conduct Sir James 
to the Sultanas presence : they were a motley group, but 
made themselves useful in clearing the way. 

Passing within the outer stockade, we arrived, after a 
few minutes* walk, at the royal residence. It was waUed in 
and fortified : a large space was inclosed by double rows 
of heavy piles driven into the earth, about five feet apart, 
and the space was filled up with large stones and earth, 
making a very solid wall of about fifteen feet in height, 
having embrasures, or rather port-holes, in convenient 
places for cannon, — out of which we noticed the rusty 



SULTAN'S PALACE. 65 

muzzles of some very heavy gmis protrading. A great 
part of the town was stockaded in a similar way ; and 
the country houses of the Datus and mountain chie& of 
any importance were also walled in, and had guns 
mounted. 

Passing through a massive gateway, pretty well flanked 
with guns and loopholes, we entered a large court, in 
which some two thousand persons were assembled, armed, 
and in their best apparel, but observing no sort of order : 
it was a wild and novel sight. Malays are always armed. 
The kris to them is what the sword was to an English 
gentleman in the feudal times. Every person who, by 
virtue of his rank or on any other pretext, could gain 
admittance, was in attendance on this occasion ; for our 
Bajah had become a justly celebrated man in the great 
Eastern Archipelago, and was to object of curiosity. 

We were conducted through the crowd to a comer of 
the com^yard, where a building, inferior to a small 
English bam, was pointed out as the Sultanas palace. 
We entered it by a flight of broad wooden steps (for the 
palace was raised on piles), through a narrow passage 
thronged with guards, — ^and we found ourselves in the 
royal presence. 

The audience-chamber was not very large : a table, 
covered with green cloth, ran across the centre of it ; 
above the table, and round the upper end of the room, 
sat a very brilliant semicircle of personages, the Sultan 
occupying a raised seat in the middle. The cortege 



66 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

consisted of his Grand Vizier, the members of the royal 
&milj, and the great Datus and officers of State. Behind 
these stood the guards and attendants, dressed in silks, 
the colours being according to the fancy of their 
respective masters. 

The Sultan gave us a gracious reception, shaking 
hands with each officer as he was presented. This 
ceremony over, chairs were placed for Sir James and his 
suite ; while those of our party, who could not get seats, 
formed a semicircle on the other side of the table. The 
scene was striking and gay. 

The Sultan is a young-looking man, but with a dull 
and vacant expression, produced by the too free use of 
opium : his hps were red with the mixture of betel-nut 
and cere-leaf, which he chewed. 

He was dressed in rich silks, red and green the 
predominant colours. A large jewel sparkled in his 
turban, and he wore jewels also profusely on his person. 

The hilt of his kris, the great distinguishing ornament 
of all Malays, was beautifiilly decorated with gold wire, 
curiously twisted in. Immediately behind the Sultan, in 
closest attendance on his person, stood the cup-bearer y a 
fine young man dressed in green silk, who held in his 
hand a purple finger-glass, which was constantly held to 
his royal master's mouth, to receive the filthy-looking 
mixture which is in such fiivour with these people, — 
composed of the jiiice of the betel leaf, with the areca-nut 
and gambier. The other personages composing the circle 



AUDIENCE WITH SULTAN. 67 

were dressed with equal gaudiness, in bright silks ; in the 
selection, however, of their colours they displayed consi- 
derable taste. Many of the guards were dressed in very 
ancient chain-armour, consisting of skull-caps and tunics, 
covering the arms and reaching from the throat to the 
knee. 

Those armed with sword, spear, and kris did not look 
amiss ; but two sentries, placed to guard the entrance to 
this ancient hall of audience, each shouldering a very 
shabby-looking old Tower musket, of which they looked 
very proud, had an absurd efifect. 

After a reasonable time passed by each party in 
admiration of the other, the conversation was opened by 
Sir James Brooke, who, as Her Majesty's Commissioner 
in these regions, submitted to the Sultan certain 
propositions on matters of business. 

To these His Majesty expressed his wiUingness to 
accede ; and he graciously reminded Sir James that the 
royal family of Soloo were under considerable obligations 
to the EngUsh ; inasmuch as his great grand-father. 
Sultan Amir, having been once upon a time imprisoned 
by the Spaniards in the fortress of Manilla, was delivered 
from durance vile and reinstated on the throne of his 
ancestors by Alexander Dalrymple, — a.d. 1763. This 
was now the more liberal on the part of His Majesty, 
because his royal ancestor had not at the time allowed 
the service to be altogether unrequited ; for he ceded to 
the Enghsh Government a fine island adjoining Soloo (of 

f2 



68 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

which, by the bye, no use appears to have been made), 
together with the north end of Borneo and the south 
end of Palawan, with the intervening islands. 

At length we took leave of His Majesty, retiring in 
much the same order bb that in which we had entered. 
Although no actual treaty was concluded with the 
Sultan, Sir James paved the way for opening up com- 
merce, and for cultivating a better imderstanding with the 
natives. 

In the afternoon we visited one Datu Daniel, a powerful 
chief, very friendly, and well disposed towards the English. 
His stronghold was at a short distance in the country, at 
the foot of one of the mountain slopes, fortified in much 
the same way as the Sultan's, but on a smaller scale ; his 
stockades were, however, quite as strong, and his guns in 
better order. His enclosed court, being likewise a farm- 
yard with a good supply of live stock, looked as if he was 
better prepared than his royal master to stand a long 
siege : his wives looked happy, his children merry ; and, 
on the whole, his domestic life appeared tolerably 
Comfortable. 

The terms, on which the Sultan appeared to live with 
his great vassals, very much resembled the feudal system 
of the Middle Ages. 

The fact, that any man puttiug his foot on British soil 
becomes free, and that the deck of a man-of-war was all 
the same as British soil, seemed to be " a dodge '' perfectly 
tmderstood by the Soloo chiefe ; and, during the stay of 



SELF-EMANCIPATORS. 69 

Her Majesty's ship MceandeVy all the slaves were carefully 
locked up like other live stock, with the exception of a few 
old servants, who, having received such long-continued 
kindness as to be slaves in name only, were trusted by 
their masters. Gratitude, however, is as rare in Soloo as 
elsewhere ; and about a dozen of these faithful well-fed 
slaves were fools enough to find their way on board th^ 
M (Bander y to be landed at the next port at which we 
might touch, and there to starve as fi:ee men. Their 
usual plan was to sneak alongside at night, cling hold of 
the chain-plates, kick the canoe adrift — ^which they had in 
all probability stolen — ^and then make a noise until helped 
up the side, whea they imagined themselves Britishers. 
Every one of these whom we questioned appeared to have 
been treated by their owners with the greatest confidence 
and kindness. 

Considering that Soloo was the great commercial centre 
of these seas, we were surprised at not seeing more large 
prahus ; there were none afloat, and very few hauled up ; 
the number, however, of building-sheds and blacksmiths' 
forges showed that they have the means of starting into 
activity at short notice. 

Mr. Windham had been trying to persuade the Soloos 
to bear a flag with a St. George's Cross in their trading 
prahus, as a badge of peaceful mercantile occupation, by 
which they might be known to our cruisers ; but this 
suggestion had not yet been adopted. 

We quitted the Soloo capital with some regret, and ran 



70 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

down the coast, intending to visit the island of Tooljan, 
said to belong to the English. The scenery^ although 
there was no Eini-Balu for a back-ground, was more 
beautiful than any we had yet seen, and quite answers to 
the following description by Mr. Hunt : " There are few 
landscapes in the world that exhibit a more delightful 
appearance than the sea-coasts of Soloo; the luxuriant 
variety of the enchanting hills exhibits a scenery hardly 
ever equalled, and certainly never surpassed by the pencil 
of the artist. Some with majestic woods that wave 
their lofly heads to the very summits ; others with rich 
pasturage delightfully verdant, with here and there 
patches burnt for cultivation, which form an agreeable 
contrast with enamelled meads ; others, again, exhibit 
cultivation to the mountain-top, chequered with groves 
affording a grateful variety to the eye ; — in a word, it only 
requires the decorations of art and civilised life to form a 
terrestrial paradise.*' It was dark before we anchored off 
the island of Toolyan. Our arrival caused the same con- 
sternation as at Soloo, the same noise, and flitting about 
of Ughts ; until one fine fellow, braver than the rest, 
determined to risk his Ufe for the good of the community 
and paddled himself alongside, when our pacific intentions 
were made known, and confidence was at once established. 
This island is separated fixjm Soloo by a narrow strait. 
It appeared well cultivated, — the people industrious, and 
much more peaceably inclined than their neighbours- 
There were gardeners on shore, and fishermen afloat, 



BASILAN. 71 

ready to supply our wants in their respective depart- 
ments ; we did not, however, trouble them, but proceeded, 
after a short visit, on our course for Samboangan. 

The excitement and interest of our voyage rather 
increasing as we proceeded, on the 5th we anchored oflF 
the Bolod Islands, and landed to search for the eggs of 
a bird, which from the description given to us we 
supposed to be the Megapoditis. In this we were 
unsuccessful, some natives having not long before visited 
these islands for the same purpose. We found some 
heaps of rubbish, comprising sea- weed, stones, and sticks, 
which had evidently constituted the materials of these 
birds* nests. A description of this singular bird and of 
its nest, from the more able pen of my friend the Rajah 
of Sarawak, will be found in a later portion of this work. 

On the 8th, we anchored oflF the west coast of the island 
of Basilan, — the largest of the Soloo Archipelago, — on 
which the Spaniards have established a small settlement, 
though not without much trouble, the inhabitants being 
hostile and warlike, and keeping their garrison constantly 
on the alert. The French squadron, under Admiral 
Cecille, sustained some loss in an attack by boats on a 
part of this island. The next day we worked our way 
between numerous small, but beautiful islands, only 
regretting that we had not time to explore them. At 
9 P.1L we came to, in eleven fathoms, oflF the fort of 
Samboangan ; and on the following morning we saluted 
the Spanish flag. The settlement is on the south part 



72 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

of the southernmost island of the Phillippine group, and 
its population is reinforced by convicts sent from Manilla. 
It is situated near the great Lanun Bay, the inhabitants 
of which are the fiercest and most warlike of all these 
islanders, and are celebrated for their piratical propen- 
sities. There is no part of the great Eastern Archipelago, 
as far even as the Malacca Straits, that has not, at some 
time or another, suflFered from these freebooters, 
Samboangan has a strong fort ; the gun-boats are very 
efficient, and keep this part of the Soloo sea in tolerable 
order. Our tender, having arrived before us, had already 
exchanged civilities with the authorities, and prepared 
them for our visit. 

The town is extensive, and is, with the exception of 
the residences of the officials, built in the native fiishion. 

We much enjoyed a few days in this comparatively 
civilised place. Owing to the clever management, as 
well as the good taste, of the Governor, Don Cayetano de 
Figueroa, Colonel of engineers, a very sociable system 
of society prevailed, uniting all classes, — the proud Spanish 
dames not refusing to meet in the same ball-room the 
pretty half-caste girls, who during the mornings were 
engaged in washing the officers' clothes, or retailing eggs 
and poultry in the market. 

The hospitality of the Governor provided for us, at his 
own residence early every mornings first a cup of 
excellent chocolate ; and after our light breakfast, horses 
being in readiness, he would kindly accompany us in 



SAMBOANGAN. 73 

some picturesque ride, conducting us by the most inter- 
esting routes, and pointing out everything worth seeing. 
The settlement of Samboangan lies within narrow 
boundaries. 

The sovereignty of these islands is claimed by the 
Spaniards ; but it would scarcely have been prudent to 
venture &rther into the interior than the first range of 
mountains, in reliance on the protection of any civilised 
power, inasmuch as a very hostile attitude is still 
maintained by the '^ ultramontane '' aborigines. 

In the immediate vicinity of the town the land was 
highly cultivated, and the scenery very picturesque, with 
a pleasing variety of extensive pasture grounds. In our 
rides we were generally attended by boys carrying our 
guns, the woods abounding in varieties of doves and 
pigeons. 

We had dances and dinners on shore and on board, 
and it was at length with no small regret on our 
parts, that we took leave of our kind and hospitable 
friends. 

There is much in these regions to interest the 
conchologist, and to reward his patient researches among 
the rocks and sea- weeds. Finding that I was a collector 
in this pleasing department of natural history, the officers 
of the Spanish Marine freely supplied me from their own 
stores with some very beautiful additions to my cabinet, 
especially of the Spondylus and Chama. 

Oa the 14th of January we left Samboangan, getting 



74 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

under weigh in company with such a fleet of gun-boats as 
would have done credit to any nation. 

It must be confessed that, in systematic protection to 
the commerce of their respective seas, both Spain and 
Holland infinitely surpass our own country, so £Eur as she 
has at present shown any determination to crush this 
evil in the latitudes where English influence alone could 
do so. The Spaniards, aUve to the truth that commerce 
and piracy cannot co-exist, have long maintained such a 
naval force as has not only driven away, but keeps at a 
distance from the Phillippine Islands, those hordes who 
used to inflict on their marine traffic such sacrifice of hfe 
and merchandise. Some of the most formidable hordes 
now existing are composed of, or maintained by, fugitive 
princes and nobles, who have been, by Spanish vigilance, 
chased away from the Bay of Magindano, and other 
places withm the protection of that flag. The Dutch, 
true to the same pohcy, and perhaps even more happy in 
its exercise, have, by a system of energetic vigilance 
along the whole coast of Java, not only to a great extent 
eradicated piracy from the Celebes, but have in many 
instances converted freebooters into fishermen, murderers 
into merchants or agriculturists. What becomes, however, 
of the remnant— of those for whom, as a vocation, murder 
and rapine have superior charms 1 They, of course, must 
find a sea of impunity ; establish themselves on the least 
protected coast — the least cared-for expanse of ocean ; 
where, if they ever do happen to surpass themselves in 



PIRACY. 75 

atrocity, punishment is so uncertain, and, when it does 
fall, so transient, as just to add the charm of speculation 
and excitement to the other charms of piracy. Casting 
about for such an ehgible cruising-ground, the expelled 
of the Phillippines and the Celebes find it exactly to their 
mind in those seas where commerce has the strongest 
claims to the protection of the British flag — ^the flag of 
that humane, incredulous nation, which will belieye no 
harm of those poor men in " boats," * and will take a 
strict account of any one who injures them. 

Surely when Spain, whose trade is so insignificant, 
compared with ours, — when Holland, whose trade, if it 
equals, certainly does not exceed our own, — ^when these 
nations find it true economy to provide systematically and 
effectually against the evils of piracy, surely England, the 
nation of shopkeepers, mistress of the seas — England 
who expends her million^ in a more doubtful cause on the 
coast of Afirica — might expend something (and I think it 
need not be much) in a cause which offers more substantial 
temptations, which promises, on the experience of other 
nations, more satisfactory results, which involves questions 
of slavery and massacre^ and which demands of us in the 
name of commerce and humanity such permanent arrange- 
ments, as shall make it impossible for any of those commu- 
nities within our reach, — and where would they be beyond 
it, if we were in earnest 1 — to gain so much by a lawless 



* "It appeared, from the class of boats used by the DyakB, that it was 
impoisible they could be pirates." — Ma. Hums. 



76 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

and desperate vocation as to encourage them to persist in 
ity against our unsparing and inevitable visitations. 

Of the achievements of Spain in this righteous cause 
we have no such detailed particulars as Holland has 
ftumished us, in the instructive compilation of M. De 
Groot. 

From this I hastUy set down a few passages, which may 
be at once our shame and our encouragement ; although, 
from the occasional tone of the document, it would appear 
that the Dutch are not very earnest in desiring our 
co-operation : commercial jealousy seems to suggest to 
them some counterbalancing evil : — 

'' In the year 1826 the Dutch force engaged in this service alone 
was, two corvettes, eight large brigs^ five small brigs, eighteen gun- 
boats — of which the Dutch Admiral reports, that it has answered the 
end for which it was instituted, having scattered as much as possible 
the numerous and formidable pirates. .... We are surrounded bj 
small islands, which are so many nests of pirates ; but our uniiu 
terrupted cruisings have prevented them from making descents upon 
our coasts, and carrying off the inhabitants to their haunts as 
slaves ; and they have successfully protected the coasting trade/' 
—Page 79. 

'^ In order to meet the evils of piracy in the Indian Archipelago, 
the Dutch Governor-General equipped a flotilla of schooners, of 
small draft of water, which, at fixed periods, in concert with the 
ships of the Eoyal and Colonial Navy, undertook expeditions 
against the pirates. Every year they followed them up even to 
their haunts, to make an example of them, to bum their ships, to 
carry off their arms, and to spread terror and confusion among the 
pirates themselves.'* — Page 81. 

'' We do not well understand,*' says an able pamphlet quoted by 



It 



DUTCH MEASURES. 77 

M. de Groot, ''how the Dutch Qovemment of India can have acted 
with too much rigour against bandits^ who do not content them- 
Belves with plundering and capturing vessels and merchandise, but 
who sell as slaves, or mercilessly massacre, all whom they find on 
board their vessels/^ — ^Page 105. 

Pour hundred pirates/^ says a Dutch Report of 1836 — 1840, 
were established as agriculturists at Saleyer, to the south of Celebes. 
The pirates to the north of Borneo were punished. The English 
intervention prevented more being done in these countries.^' — 
Page 103. 

''These forces do not, as formerly, meet in the islands of Bouton. 
Their power has gradually increased to the south of the Archipelago ; 
and it is astonishing what a number of prahus are there at present. 
I attribute it to the great number of losses they have sustained on 
the coast of Celebes and the neighbouring islands for some years 
past. The defeat which they experienced in 1827, near Tana 
Tjampea, convinced them that, on every other point of the coast of 
Celebes or its neighbourhood, they would be exposed to similar 
surprises^ and could no longer reckon on a sure retreat in those 
latitudes. On watching their movements since then, it wiU be 
easily observed that the pirates have no longer a fixed place of 
meeting, as if they had not yet determined on a convenient spot 
from which to start. It is, no doubt, of paramount importance to 
them to choose a well-situated spot for their sphere of action, at a 
distance from our pow^,'^ — ^Page 94. 

"Wherever our power cannot extend, the slave-trade is stiU 
possible, and piracy, committed with the object of carrying away 
human beings, has not yet ceased.*' — Page 119. 

" Even the English papers have often rendered justice to the zeal 
and efficacious measures of the Dutch Government to suppress 
piracy in the Indian Archipelago ; and the comparison drawn by 
these papers, between the efforts made in favour of that cause by 
the British Government and our own, is not in favour of the 



78 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

English The success of the measures adopted will cause the 

name of the Dutch to be held in honour among commercial nations. 
But piracy has taken too deep root in the Indian Archipelago to 
render the power and good- will of the Dutch Grovemment sufficient 
to eradicate if — ^Page 120.* 

The whole system of piracy, throughout that part of the 
Eastern Archipelago in which we are interested, might 
be eflFectually suppressed, the trade protected, and the 
duties of the Malacca Straits performed, at a cost not 
equalling that of the ships of war occasionally employed 
on that station ; but I repeat that the force so employed 
must be permanent. 

It is difficult to calculate the good that might be done, 
the benefit that would accrue to the cause of humanity, 
and the vast trade that would as assuredly spring up, were 
protection thus secured to it by the right description of 
force, judiciously applied under an intelligent and active 
officer. 

The position of Sir James Brooke, and his experience, 
would render his co-operation most valuable, and I am 
sure it would be always readily affi)rded. 

Without some such measures, I am equally assured that 
all our late operations will soon have been in vain ; and, 
in proportion as the proceedings of other nations are 
well organised, we shall suflFer by the incompleteness of 
our own. 

On the 16th January, observing a sand-bank to the 

* Parliamentary Paper relating to Piracies in the Indian Archipelago, 1851. 



CORAL ISLAND. 79 

north-west not mentioned in Horsburgh nor in any 
of our charts, we hauled up, intending to anchor near it, 
and ascertain its correct position. We gradually reduced 
the quantity of sail set, as we neared the island ; and so, 
with the leads going in the chains, look-out men at the 
mast-head, and an occasional cast of the deep-sea lead, 
we approached the lee-side, and got within cable's length 
of the beach without obtaining bottom at 120 fathoms. 
A line of breakers with overfalls extended oflF the north- 
west end, having the appearance of a shelf of rocks ; but 
these proved to be nothing but a tide ripple, as we stood 
into them. The island was very small, and had the same 
appearance all round. On landing, we foimd a patch of 
glaring white sand without a vestige of vegetation, sur- 
rounded by a belt of coral about a mile and a half in 
circumference, and so steep that I believe we might have 
rubbed the sides of the Mceander against it, without 
obtaining bottom with the hand-leads. The centre was 
covered with a variety of sea-birds ; their new-laid eggs 
proved excellent eating. The birds themselves were in 
every stage of growth — ^from the little gaping nudity, 
just introduced into the world, to the old full-grown 
guardians of their progeny, which shrieked and hovered 
over our heads, disputing our landing so pertinaciously that 
we were obliged to knock them down with sticks, while 
on the wing, two or three at a time. 

We found on this lonely coral island the solitary grave 
of a Mussulman. Here was, indeed, a resting-place likely 



80 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

to be undisturbed ; a spot where the pUgrim of any 
creed, 

" HiB life being weary of these worldly bars. 
Might wish for power to dismiss itself," 

or, as the Koran hath it, "might envy the quiet dead, 
and say. Would to God I were in thy place/' Never- 
theless, a sublimer grave than the coral rock — according 
to my idea — ^was close at hand. There can scarcely be 
a moment more impressive than when " we commit a 
body to the deep ; there to look for the resurrection of the 
body, when the sea shall give up its dead." No doubt, 
however, an earthly — even a coral — tomb had superior 
recommendations for the Mussulman. He could repose in 
the right position for his prophet's tomb ; he could have 
at his head the well-known symbol of the turban, rudely 
carved, in this instance, out of a piece of wood. Above all, 
those who closed his eyes could also prepare him by their 
jftiendly prompting for the interrogation of the examining 
angels. "When they say to thee, *Who is thy Lord?' 
answer, * God is my Lord,' in truth ; and when they ask 
thee concerning thy prophet, say \mto them, * Mahomet 
is the Apostle of God,' with veracity ; and when they ask 
thee concerning thy religion, say unto them, ^Islamism 
is my religion ;' and when they ask thee concerning thy 
book of direction, say to them, * The Koran is my book 
of direction — ^and I have lived and died in the assertion 
that there is no deity but God ; and Mahomet is God's 
Apostle.' — And they will say, * Sleep, servant of 
God, in the protection of God.'" Had the deceased 



FUNERAL AT SEA. 81 

son of Islam been committed to the deep, he would 
probably have reached one of the "dark unfathom'd 
caves of ocean," before these instructions could have 
been pronounced from the funeral rites of the Mahom- 
etan. I have often watched the ominous-looking 
mass, as it sunk slowly, with a gentle swing from side to 
side, down the transparent depths, until it disappeared 
in the abyss, and left the most thoughtless of those 
whose eyes had followed it solemnly — and not always 
transiently — fixed on the reaUties of that purer faith 
which accompanies the Christian sailor round the world. 
I believe that not a few may refer to a sailor's funeral 
for the time when they first said, " God is my Lord,^* in 
truth ; and " The son of God is my prophet," in veracity ; 
and, taking His faith for their religion, and His Book for 
their " Book of direction," have lived and died, so that 
the devout Mahometan shall not shame them on the day 
when all shall meet. 



tt 



Qai nescit orare, 
DifM^t navigare.' 



Graceless art thou as to pray'r ? 
(3o to sea — thonlt learn it there. 



''According to the Moslem creed, the souls of the 
faithful hover, in a state of seraphic tranquillity, near 
their tombs. Hence, the Moslem usage of visiting the 
graves of their departed friends, in the idea that their 
souls are the gratified witnesses of these testimonials of 
aflection." * 

* Washington Irving. 



u 



82 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

Not very Kkely is it that the tenant of the coral 
rock will often receive this pleasure from the friend who 
closed his eyes. The wild screams of the sea-birds 
seemed singularly incompatible with seraphic tranquillity. 

We made the shoal in latitude 8° 4' 34'^ N., and 
119^7' 30''E. longitude. 

On the 1 7th, we came to, in ten fathoms, about a mile 
oflf the south side of Cagayan, and immediately commenced 
our examination of the curious circular lake before men- 
tioned, of which we had reserved the examination for this 
opportunity. The entrance is by a gap about fifty yards 
wide ; this, however, is crossed by a bank of coral, which 
extends along the whole south coast, and at low water is 
nearly dry, so as to exclude any boat larger than a canoe. 
Just outside the middle of the bar was a small island of 
rock and sandstone, with a sufficient shelter of bushes to 
make an excellent shaded spot for our pic-nic. On 
passing the bar, we found ourselves inside a magnificent 
circular lake of deep blue water ; its circumference was 
about three miles. It was completely encircled by sand- 
stone clifis, upwards of 200 feet in height, and nearly 
perpendicular : their sides were covered with trees and 
shrubs. In the natural barriers of this remarkable 
enclosure only two small breaks occurred ; one was the 
gap by which we entered ; the other was on the E.N.E. 
side. 

From the inside, the little island at the entrance had 
all the appearance of having once filled the gap, and 



INLAND LAKE. 83 

looked as if it had been forced out into the sea by some 
internal pressure. The break which I mentioned on the 
north-east side did not come lower than within seventy 
or eighty feet of the water's edge, and was partially 
concealed by the thick foliage of the jungle and forest- 
trees. In sounding, we found the depth of water to vary 
from fifty to sixty &thoms, and it appeared to be as deep 
at the sides as in the centre. Nothing could be more 
beautifully luxuriant than the growth of the jungle-trees 
of every description, their trunks and branches covered 
with an endless variety of beautifiil creepers in brilliant 
blossom, hanging in festoons to the very water's edge. 
Over our heads, distiu'bed by such unusual visitors, 
numbers of pigeons flew to and fro ; while many 
varieties of the parrot screamed their remonstrances at 
our intrusion. Forming ourselves into small parties, we 
dispersed — some to haul the seine, some to search for shells, 
while a third party explored the gap on the north-east 
side, clambering up without any anticipation of a further 
treat which was in reserve for them. At a height of 
about ninety feet, another beautiful lake burst on their 
astonished sight, circular in form, and as nearly as possible 
similar to that which they had just left. The two lakes 
were separated by a sort of natural wall ; and the spec- 
tator standing on its narrow edge could, by a mere turn 
of the head, look down either on the inner lake at a depth 
of thirty feet, or on the outer eighty feet beneath him, 
almost perpendicularly. The water of the higher or inner 

o2 



84 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

lake was perfectly fresh ; but it may be observed that 
while it is called the inner lake, because we approached it 
through the other, it is, in fact, very little further inland 
than the first. 

This grand discovery being communicated to the other 
rambUng parties, curiosity became here concentrated. 
Men and axes were procured from the ship ; the trees 
were cut down, and a road made up the gap, and so over 
to the fresh-water lake. A raft was then constructed, 
and, together with a small boat belonging to the tender, 
was very shortly launched upon the upper water. 

Our operations soon drew some of the natives to the 
spot, who expostulated on our proceedings, informing us 
that the waters of the lake were sacred, and had never 
yet been desecrated by the presence or by the pressure 
of an earthly canoe ; that the Spirit of the Lake (by 
description a Fiery Dragon of the worst order) would 
not fail to manifest his displeasure at the innovation ; 
and that nothing would induce them to venture on it. 
These scruples were, however, got over by one of them 
after he had swallowed a glass of grog. 

It was not until we were afloat on the inner lake, that 
we were enabled to form a correct idea of the beauty of 
its encircling barriers, and of the luxuriant vegetation 
which graced them. We had then also the best view of 
the extraordinary gap through which we had passed into 
it. The sandstone clifis were more perpendicular on the 
fresh-water side, assuming the appearance of massive 



INLAND LAKES. 86 

masonry ; and the gap might be a large portal, a 
hundred feet in height, broken through the immense stone 
wall. The creepers also were hence seen to great 
advantage, some of them falhng in most beautiful 
luxuriance the whole length from the summit of the 
surrounding heights to the water's edge. The lake may 
at one time, by some convulsion, have risea and burst 
through its barriers at this spot into the lower basin ; 
which in turn may, by a similar process, have formed the 
gap in the outer side, and then subsided to its present sea 
level Such was the appearance which it had to us. 

we had certainly here presented to us 
tsity. I should have added that the 
i were intersected at regular distances 
glomerate ; and the whole scene was 
liar as to render description difficult. 
; spoken of the existence of other 
great distance, we explored in the 
they guided us, but made no new 
cred bottom of the lake was dredged 
of our party, but without finding any 

e not a little proud of having dis- 
of curiosity which had escaped so 
a Sir Edward Belcher, who, though 
r of finding the lower basin, was 
xistence of the far more wonderful 
; is no knowing how far even a 



86 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

member of the Royal Yacht squadron may extend his 
rovings in these days of enterprise. I may commend, 
therefore, to the excursionist in the Soloo sea a visit to 
this our interesting discovery, certain that he will thank 
me for so doing. 

A ship may obtain good fresh water from a small 
trickling stream, which permeates through the barrier, 
near the gap, into the basin below; but it should be 
so arranged that the laden boats pass the coral reef o£f 
the coast, before the tide falls too low. 

On the 20th, we took up our old berth in the south-west 
bay of Cagayan Soloo, and commenced an active barter 
for stock ; this, however, was brought to a sudden con- 
clusion on the 22nd, the natives taking fright at our shell 
practice. We were exercising at general quarters, and a 
few of them had remained to see the shot strike the target ; 
but the double report produced by these missiles, and the 
shower of perils which they emit at last, were on the 
whole too much for Soloo nerves ; and so they left us. 

Sailed on the 23rd, making for the northward of Ban- 
guey ; and, having anchored occasionally, on the 26th we 
ran between that island and Balambangan, and again came 
to, near the remnant of th^ wreck of the Minerva. 

On the 28th, we came to in Victoria Bay, Labuan ; and 
soon after we landed our Governor, restored to compara- 
tive health. 

Much had been done during our short absence. More 
comfortable residences had been erected on the higher 



LABUAN AGAIN. 87 

ground ; and that great step towards civilisation, a good 
road, had been made to the buildings on the plain, which 
were now only used as offices. 
. The troops were comfortable and contented. 

Mr. Low, whom we had left in an apparently dying state, 
had under the care of his amiable wife so far recovered 
as to be able to superintend the cultivation of the portion 
of ground allotted to him ; and, although the soil was not 
superior, enough had been accomplished to prove that it 
was capable of producing all tropical fixiits and 
v^etables. 

Deer and wild hog were plentiful ; few, however, had 
been killed ; although, in Captain Hamilton, the garrison 
contmned one of the keenest and best sportsmen in the 
East. 

The communication with the coal district, which was 
the great attraction, was still by water only. Until ceded 
to the Eajstem Archipelago Company, the coal seam had 
been rented by an adventurer named Miles, once Lloyd, 
who had managed to enrich himself by picking merely 
the surface of the seam close to the water^s edge, and 
selling it for the use of the Government steamers at the 
rate of £1 per ton. 

On the 30th, we sailed for Sincapore. 

On the 2nd of February, in running between the 
Ajoambas Islands, of which we had in our possession a 
recent French survey, we suddenly observed breakers 
a-head, and had barely time to sheer clear of a small and 



88 A VISIT TO. THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

dangerous 43hoal which had escaped the vigilance of 
Monsieur Paris, of La Favorite. Its position, by cross 
bearings, was Tokong Island N.N.E., Sra Island W. ^ S. 

On the 3rd, we again anchored in Sincapore Eoads. 
We here found orders to proceed to China, the Com- 
mander-in-Chief thinking it advisable to have a force 
ready, in case the Government should think it necessary 
to enforce the treaty made with the Chinese Government 
by Sir John Davis, in 1847, by which the gates of the city 
of Canton were to be opened to strangers. 

This treaty was likely to be disregarded by the Chinese, 
according to opportunity, when the immediate danger 
should be removed, having been made at the bayonet's 
point, while our troops were in possession of the environs 
of the Imperial city. There was now among its population 
a growing disposition to dispute with their Government 
the idea of admitting the Barbarians of the outer waters. 

Having received on board, through the cabin windows, 
a huge spar 96 feet in length, to make a government flag- 
staff, with a topmast and yard to match — which no other 
ship on the station could or would carry, — ^we sailed on the 
17th for China. We shaped our course so as to com- 
municate with Sarawak and Labuan, and worked up the 
Palawan coast. 

We then steered for the Pratas, and made that 
dangerous shoal N.E. ^ E. from the mast head on 
the morning of the 29th March, having been set twenty- 
five miles to the westward during the night. The 



CHINA SQUADRON. 89 

foUowing day at noon, we ran into Hong Kong by the 
Lyemoon passage. In addition to the Hastings^ flag-ship, 
we found many of the China squadron, comprising the 
Scofut^ Pilot, Columbine^ Albatross , sloops ; with the 
Fury and lufkanhley steamers. We were shocked to 
hear that our worthy and respected chief. Sir Francis 
Collier, had sustained a paralytic stroke. 

The 10th April arriving — the day on which the gates 
of Canton should have been opened, and perhaps 
would have been, had the Canton mob been kept in the 
same subjection as the London mob was on that famous 
day — the Admiral, finding that there was no intention 
on the part of our Grovernment to enforce the Davis 
Treaty, sailed in the Inflexible to visit the northern ports ; 
he ordered the Hastings to Sincapore, dispersed the 
sloops — the Albatross to Borneo, and the others to their 
respective stations at the ports in China, which were 
opened to trade by the Pottinger Treaty. The Mceander 
was left to take care of Hong Eong. 



90 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO, 



CHAPTER VI. 



PIRAOT IH THE OHIVA BIAS BIOATTA AT MACAO — ^DCPBItfOHMKIlT OF MB. 8UMMMB0 

— ^iimByniw oh thb subjkot with the portuqubsi qoyk&hor — measures 

TAKEN for thb LIBERATIOE OF MR. SUMMERS — THIS 8UBJE0T RETIEWSD 

PARTICULARS OF THE AS8A8SIEATI0H OF OOYBREOR DO AMAEAfi, AED SUB8EQUBHT 
BYEETS — ^EXPLOSION OF THB DONA MARIA FRIQATE. 

NoTHiNO unusual took place during our stay here. 
Various acts of piracy, attended with cruel murders, 
occurred between Hong Kong and the entrance to the 
Canton River; but this could not be called unusual 
Some of the rogues were taken by the Inflembhy and six 
fellows were hanged at West Point ; but so httle eflFect 
had this example, that a fresh act of piracy was com- 
mitted within sight of the suspended corpses, and within 
range of the sentry's musket 

The Admiral returned in the Fury on the 20th of 
May, much benefited by his trip to the northern ports. 
He sailed again on the 26th, leaving us to await the 
arrival of the Amazon from England. She came in on 
the following day, and we prepared to return to our old 
station in the Eastern Archipelago : but before our 



MACAO REGATTA. 91 

departure an event occurred, which gave an unanticipated 
notoriety to our short sojourn here. Were I to pass it 
unnoticed, my motive might be mistaken; but as the 
narrative must unavoidably be egotistical, and the subject 
has perhaps lost its general interest, — ^my readers may 
now pass to the next chapter, who have no inclination to 
discuss a point of international law, nor to see how it 
was decided, for the occasion at least, by a British 
boat's-crew and a party of Marines. 

Just before the arrival of the Amazon^ I received an 
invitation through my young firiend, Mr. Robert EUice 
(Honorary Secretary on the occasion), to act as joint 
umpire with Commodore Geisinger of the United States 
at a regatta which had been got up chiefly by Mr. Bush, 
the United States Consul at Hong Eong, — ^he kindly 
giving a cup to be sailed for. The event was to come 
ofl", weather permitting, on the 8th of June. To thief 
proposal I cheerfully acceded. As the Medea^ Com- 
mander Lockyer, was cruising outside for the suppression 
of piracy, and the Columbine^ Commander John Dalrymple 
Hay, was coming down from Whampoa about that time 
for provisions, — I wrote to each of these officers, inviting 
them to meet me ; and, as I had to give up the charge of 
the station to Captain Troubridge of the Amazon (which 
could be done as well at Macao), we all agreed to meet 
there on the 7th. The American squadron, consisting of 
the Plymotdh^ the Peebles^ and the Dolphin^ added to our 
own, made a gay show in the roads : the Hong Eong 



92 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

steamers were also called into requisition, and brought 
nearly all those who had not found their way in the 
men-of-war. 

Having fired the usual salute on arrival, I proceeded 
with Captain Troubridge on the following morning, to 
pay our respects to the Governor, Don Joao Maria 
Farreira do AmaraL 

I may here mention that he was a Captain in the 
Portuguese navy, a gallant and distinguished officer. 
He lost his right arm by a cannon-shot, when eighteen 
years of age, while leading a storming party at Itaparica, 
in Brazil. He had also served in the fleet of Don Pedro, 
under Sir Charles Napier. He spoke and understood 
English as well as we did. 

He received us most cordially ; and in the course of 
conversation said that he had broken through a rule, by 
accepting an invitation to dine with Mr. Forbes (an 
American gentleman, to whom we were likewise engaged), 
as he would not forego the pleasure of meeting his brother 
officers. Taking our leave, we proceeded to the room in 
which we were to arrange the starting of the vessels for 
the cup. At the door I was met by Captain Staveley, 
Military Secretary to the General commanding at Hong 
Kong^ who requested my assistance in getting a young 
gentleman released, who had been imprisoned on the 
previous evening, he believed for not saluting the Host. 

I immediately expressed my willingness to apply to the 
Governor, remarking, that he was a very good fellow, and 



INTERVIEW WITH THE GOVERNOR. 93 

I was sure would not hesitate to comply with my request. 
Accordingly, Captain Troubridge and myself, accompanied 
by Captain Staveley, returned to the Gk>vemment House. 
Without waiting to be announced, we proceeded at once 
to the apartment in which we had just before left Sefior 
Amaral, and we found him seated with the French Charge- 
d'affaires, M. le Baron de Forth Rouen. I apologised for 
the intrusion ; but His Excellency rising accompanied 
me to one of the windows. I then stated that I was come 
to ask a fiivour — ^that he would be so kind as to give an 
order for the release of a Mr. Summers, who, it appeared, 
had been confined in the common prison all night, for not 
saluting the Host. I concluded by remarking that^ in all 
probability. His Excellency had heard nothing of the 
business. To this he sharply replied, that not only did 
he know all about it, but that the person in question had 
been confined by his order. I then remarked to His 
Excellency that the punishment (Mr. Summers having 
been confined in the common jail, without food, since five 
o'clock the previous afternoon) had surely been equal to 
the ofience ; and I again expressed a hope that the 
Governor would order his release. On this he stated that 
Mr. Summers was sent to prison, not for any disrespect to 
the Host, — "/or which he (the Governor) cared perhaps 
as little as I did,'' — ^but for disobeying his (the Governor's) 
order. I inquired, " What order ? " — He replied, " The 
order he gave him to take his hat ofiT." I then asked 
" whether I understood the Governor rightly — whether he 



94 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

could order any person he chose to take his hat off in the 
open streets?'' To this he said, ** Exactly so/' I then 
said that this altered the case, and that I must now 
request the immediate liberation of Mr. Summers, as I 
could not consider that the alleged offence, for which he 
was imprisoned, was any crime at alL I further added, 
that I could hardly believe that I had heard now, in the 
nineteenth century, the (Jovemor of a Portuguese settle- 
ment assert that he had imprisoned a British subject for 
refusing to take his hat off in the open streets, when 
ordered by him through a soldier to do so : I stated that, 
some five centuries back, a certain Gessler had placed a 
cap on a pole, and, in trying to make one William Tell 
bow to it, he had revolutionised Switzerland. — To this the 
Governor replied, that I was not acquainted with Portu- 
guese law. I said, very Ukely not ; but that I knew what 
common justice was. I then bowed, and retired. When 
I had descended half way down the steps, the Governor, 
calling me by name, asked me if I came to demand Mr. 
Summers's liberation as a right, or to ask it as a favour. 
I replied that, while I believed Mr. Summers had neglected 
to take off his hat, as was customary, on the passing of 
one of the religious ceremonies of the coimtry, I had 
asked his liberation as a personal favour ; but, since His 
Excellency had explained that Mr. Summers was confined 
for what I conceived to be no crime at all, I really could 
not, in the position I then occupied, ask for his liberation 
as a favour. 



MR. SUMMERS IN PRISON. 95 

After this unexpected termination to our interview, we 
retired to the residence of my friend Mr. Patrick Stewart, 
situated within a few doors of the Grovernment House, to 
consider with Captain Troubridge what steps should next 
be taken* 

Here was a British subject, whose arrest had been in 
the first instance illegal, still unjustifiably detained after 
a respectful remonstrance on my part, — I being, in the 
absence of any British Consul or other civil authority, the 
proper representative of the British Government. I felt 
it my duty to demand in writing the immediate release of 
Mr. Summers : considering, however, the warm tempera- 
ment of Sefior do Amaral, and the bearing towards me 
which he had already assumed, I could scarcely augur for 
the more formal application that success which had been 
denied to my friendly intercession. I thought it advisable, 
therefore, to make the necessary arrangements in anticipa- 
tion of denial Owing to the shoabiess of the water, no 
ship of any size could anchor vnthin three miles of the 
landing-place. The boats of the squadron were preparing to 
pull at the regatta. I sent a gig ofi* to the First Lieutenant 
of the MtBandeTy with an order to him to make the signal, 
" Prepare to land boats for service.'' Captain Staveley 
in the meantime undertook to make himself acquainted, 
without exciting suspicion, with the position and state of 
the prison, the route to it, and how it was guarded, &c. 
To efiect this he assumed a white jacket, the usual 
costume of the mercantile gentlemen ; and, taking with 



96 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

him a basket of fruit, he walked up and obtained an inter- 
view with the prisoner, returning with the information we 
required. I then wrote the following letter, which Captain 
Troubridge took to the Governor : — 

''H.&M. Ship Mjsakdeb, Maoao Roads, 
_ **8«A January, 1849. 

" Sir, 

" As I understand, from the personal interview I 
have just had with your Excellency, in the presence of 
Captain, Troubridge, of H.B.M.S. Amazon, and Captain 
Staveley, Mihtary Secretary to the General commanding 
the troops at Hong Kong, that Mr. Summers, a British 
subject and resident of Hong Kong, has been put in the 
common jail by your Excellenc/s order, for not taking off 
his hat, in obedience to your order conveyed by a soldier, 
on the occasion of the Host passing ; and your Excellency 
having entirely separated the supposed offence from any 
religious aspect, by distinctly stating that he was com- 
mitted to jail for not obeying your order to take his hat 
off, I deem it my duty, as senior naval officer of H.B.M. 
ships in China, to demand his immediate release, and a 
full explanation of the circumstances which led to his 
imprisonment, for the information of H.B.M. Government. 

" I have the honour to be. Sir, 
" Your Excellency's most Obedient Servant, 

"HENRY KEPPEL." 

Captain Troubridge found the Governor where we 



CORRESPONDENCE. 97 

had left him, and stated that he was requested to wait for 
an answer to this letter. The Grovemor absented himself 
for a while, and then retmned with the following reply : — 

"Most Illustrious Sir, 

** In reply to the letter which you have just 
addressed me from on board H.B.M.S. Maander^ anchored 
in Macao Roads, I transmit to you herewith the enclosed 
copy of an official letter, which accompanied Mr. Summers 
when he was sent by me to-day to the judge, to whom, 
according to the Portuguese laws, appertains the further 
prosecution of that affair. 
" God preserve you. 

" (Signed), JOAO BiARIA FERREIRA DO AMARAL. 

''The Most Illustbioub SiAob Henby Kepfbl» 

" oomcANDmo h.&m. squadron m china. 

" Macao, Jwm 8^, 1849." 

The purport of the enclosure was as follows : — 

"Most Illustrious and Excellent Sir, 

" To-day, on the passing of the procession of 
Gorpo de Deos, J. Summers, Protestant Missionary, 
remained near the church of Misericordia with his hat on 
his head, amid a number of people who all showed respect 
for the religion of the country ; and I having ordered 
one of my attendants to tell him to take off his hat, — ^he 
would not. In consequence of this, I sent him to the 



98 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

guard-house, and now send him to your Excellency, in 
order that your Excellency may condescend to settle this 
doubly scandalous case according to justice. 
" God guard your Excellency. 

" JOAO MARIA FERREIRA DO AMARAL. 

" To THE Most Illustrious Sekhor Conselheiro Ioaquim 
Antokio de Moraes Carneiro, 

"juiz db decrtto of this city. 
"Macao, Jwm Sth, 1849." 

To dance attendance beyond this point on Portuguese 
justice at Macao seemed to me unworthy of my position, 
and hopeless as to the object. The judge would have 
referred me back to the Governor, whose tool he was, and 
with whom alone I could properly hold official intercourse ; 
in the meantime Mr. Summers must lie in prison, awaiting 
the " course of law,'' which, let me add, has within these 
last ten years left British subjects to die incarcerated in 
this very prison. I decided on Kberating him at once. 

To do so with the least possible risk of any disastrous 
incident was now the great object; and I adopted the 
mode of proceeding which seemed the mos't promising 
for this end. A second boat being despatched to the 
Maander, with directions that the signal should be made 
for the "Boats to land immediately,'' I went on board 
the Canton steamer, which was moored off the town, and 
took my place as umpire at the regatta, which was 
about to commence. We started the sailing vessels — and 



» 



RELEASE OF MR. SUMMERS. 99 

shortly after, observing some of the boats on their way 
to the shore in obedience to my signal, I excused myself 
for a few minutes, and again landed. 

The first boat which arrived was the M(Bander's barge, 
with a crew of twelve blue-jackets and six Marines ; and, 
the other boats being some way behind, I asked Captain 
Staveley, who was with me, whether he thought he could 
by a cottjhde-main release Mr. Summers with that one 
boat's crew ? To this he gallantly replied that he had no 
objection to try — stipulating only, like a good general, 
that I should secure his retreat. Upon this I requested 
Mr. Bumaby, who had charge of the barge's crew, to 
attend to his wishes. 

Passing quickly through a house which had a back 
entrance to the Senate Square, and so to the street in 
which the prison stood. Captain Staveley, with his party, 
immediately proceeded thither. 

The cutter fi-om the Masander arriving next, I directed 
its crew to take charge of the house through which 
Captain Staveley had passed, placing sentries at each door. 

The third boat had just arrived, when my attention 
was attracted towards Senate Square by the report of 
musketry. Leaving orders with the officer in charge of 
the landing place to pay every attention to His Excellency, 
should he land before my return (which was not 
improbable, since he must have seen all that was going 
on from on board the Plymouth)^ I was hastening to 
the scene of action, when I met Captain Staveley walking 

b2 



100 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

down, arm in arm with Mr. Summers, — ^the rear brought 
up by the barge's crew. I immediately sent to stop the 
disembarkation of any more men. The whole business, 
from the landing of the barge's crew until their return 
to the boat with Mr. Summers, did not occupy five 
minutes of time. The arms from the laimch and barge 
were transferred to the pinnace ; and the boats, with 
the exception of those which were to pull for the prizes, 
were ordered back to their respective ships. I returned 
to the Canton steamer, and had the pleasure of seeing 
the two best prizes won by the launch and barge of 
the Mceander. I learned from Captain Staveley that 
his party had to cross the square, to get to the street in 
which the prison was situated. On the left side of the 
square was the entrance to the arsenal, near which was 
a battery of four field-pieces, with a guard. When 
abreast of this battery. Captain Staveley directed 
Mr. Bumaby, with the blue-jackets, to possess themselves 
of the guns and remain there until his return, he pro- 
ceeding with the Marines to the prison. The sentry at 
the prison presented his musket at Captain Staveley ; 
upon which the corporal of Marines wounded the sentry 
in the arm, causing him to drop his musket ; this proved 
to be superfluous, as the musket was found not to be 
loaded. The jailer dropping his bunch of keys, and the 
guard having vanished, the liberation of Mr. Summers 
was the work of a few seconds. 

I am sorry, however, to add that this object was not 



CASUALTY. 101 

effected without one serious casualty, which, although it 
could not alter the view I had taken of my duty, much 
increased both my own regret at the perverseness of 
the Grovemor, and the general excitement consequent 
upon the event. A Portuguese soldier was killed by 
a musket-shot. It was said by his own people that 
he was unarmed, and not in any way opposed to our 
rescuing force. It may have been so ; it is not possible 
to reconcile the conflicting accounts even of this short 
affair. Captain Staveley, however, whose accoimt I 
believe, states that some shots were exchanged between 
our men and the Portuguese, the latter firing into the 
square fi'om the windows of a house : in this way they 
probably slew their own comrade; but the point is 
not worth discussing, as it can neither lessen nor increase 
my own responsibility. I am convinced that the course 
I pursued can be perfectly justified in the eyes of 
every one with whom might does not constitute right, 
which law seemed to be the only one recognised by 
the Governor of Macao. It may be observed, that there 
is no class of public servants on whom great responsi- 
bihties are more suddenly imposed, than on the officer 
commanding a man-of-war; and he cannot, with any 
security for his public duty, allow himself to consult 
those personal impulses, which, as they vary with every 
temperament, would produce inconsistencies in every 
sea. He must be guided, where special orders have 
not defined his course, by that which may best maintain 



102 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

the honour of his Sovereign, and of the flag which she 
entrusts to him : and of this flag the greatest honour is 
that, into whatever port it floats, there it becomes the 
refuge of the humblest individual who, bom to a share 
of British liberty, has not forfeited it by a positive 
breach of any law to which he and his nation owe 
respect. From what had transpired at my last interview 
with Sefior Amaral, it must be evident that he deUberately 
disconnected the point at issue from any religious 
question whatever. Nothing could be more studiously 
arbitrary than the shape in which the Governor was 
pleased to put it to me ; — ^and this in the presence of 
the representative of France : nor could I divest myself 
of the suspicion that, if he had not been present, 
the Governor's bravado would have been wanting also. 
As it was, however, he first forces upon me the conviction 
that the hberation of Mr. Summers is a right, which 
I could demand, repudiating in his oflfence that element 
which had already enabled me to ask the " favour *' of 
his pardon ; and then he says, " Unless you ask it as a 
favour you shall not have it. I care as Kttle as you 
do for the religious point ; but if / order any man 
to take ofl* his hat, he shall do it, or go to prison — 
Exactly so.'' I should like to see the British officer 
who would assent to Sefior Amaral's "exactly so.'' 
I should Uke to see him make his bow at the 
Admiralty, with the consciousness that, not long before 
his return, he, being Captain of a British frigate, — ^repre- 



SUBJECT REVIEWED. 103 

sentative on that spot of Her Britaniiic Majesty, had 
succumbed to the dictatorship of a Governor of Macao, 
and could give no further account of the Englishman 
who had claimed his protection, than that when the 
McBander sailed, as when she arrived, he was " in prison 
for not taking off his hat ! '^ 

The perverse bearing of Sefior Amaral, on my personal 
appUcation to him, is the more remarkable, and is aggra- 
vated by the fact that he had^ in his note to the judge, 
charged Mr. Summers, " a Protestant Missionary," with 
the ^^dofuble scandal,'^ of disrespect to the procession, 
and to himself. With me, therefore, he chose, at the 
expense of candoiu*, to sink the religious point, that he 
might exalt himself. 

I have hinted to the general reader how much he may 
sMf. Now, therefore, as the case presents points of 
professional as well as of personal interest, I will 
proceed to state particularly the considerations which 
were duly — ^though, as the case was urgent, — promptly 
weighed by me, before I determined to settle with 
Sefior Amaral after his own summary fashion. 

As the senior naval officer then at Macao, I had 
three distinct questions to determine, viz : — 

I. — Has this British subject contravened any law of 
the country in which he is imprisoned, so as to forfeit the 
protection of his own country's flag ? 

IL — Who is the proper person to intercede for him, 
if he has, or to see justice done to him, if he has not ? 



104 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

III. — In what way should this be done 1 

1. The first question is decided in a few words. 

The Governor of Macao, on his own statement of the 
case, tempted, as it seemed to me, to shew oflF before the 
representative of Prance — claimed for himself an auto- 
cratical importance, which, had its victim been a 
Frenchman, would have been aa promptly repudiated by 
M. le Baron de Forth Rouen, as it was by myself My 
address on entering ought to have satisfied his vanity ; 
for I then told him that I had come to ask a favour ; 
and he ought the rather to have yielded with a good 
grace at once, as knowing that he had no acknowledged 
power to extort from foreigners, of other religions, any act 
of observance towards his own. He might have felt also 
that a ^'Protestant Missionary," had a claim to some 
forbearance at his hands. The course pursued by him, 
disregarding even the formalities which his own laws 
prescribed — not to mention the special provisions of our 
treaties with Portugal — could only be considered as 
lawless and arbitrary : Mr. Summers, then, the subject of 
it, was entitled to the earUest practicable redress. 

2. With whom did it rest to vindicate his cause? 
Certainly, with the senior officer on the spot. At Lisbon 
it might have been a job for the ambassador : at Macao 
it devolved on me, as Her Britannic Majesty^s repre- 
sentative then and there. It was not a case which could 
with any propriety be referred to the civil authorities at 
Hong Kong. First, because I had no right, nor any 



SUBJECT REVIEWED. 106 

desire to impose on Mr. Bonham, even could he have 
performed it, the responsibility of my own disagreeable 
duty ; and secondly, because he could not have performed 
it: he could only have resorted to tardy diplomatic 
correspondence at a distance of forty miles, and then, in 
case of failure, back to myself or to the military power at 
Hong Kong. 

In the meantime the utmost conceivable punishment 
for the " double scandal,^' would have been already 
undergone by Mr. Summers. There exists a note written 
by a predecessor of Sefior Amaral, which he would 
probably have made his model in replying to any 
communication on this subject from Hong Eong. 

On the occasion to which this note refers, the Consular 
Agent for the United States expressed his "regret at 
the arrest and imprisonment of two American citizens 
by order of his Excellency, the then Governor of Macao : '* 
their offence seems to have been of the nature of 
Mr. Summers's. In reply, his Excellency the GoVemor 
Palha winds up a severe note by saying that it is " by 
an excess of moderation, but only for this time, that he 
has not determined instantly that Mr. Fisher should quit 
the city, for having the audacity to pretend that the 
Governor should account to him for the rules of his 
conduct." This peculiar style of the Grovemors of Macao 
does not encourage a reference to civil authorities when 
injustice is patent — when delay aggravates it — and when 
a man-of-war is at hand. 



106 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

3. How then was I to liberate Mr, Summers % Here 
was no doubt an opportunity to emulate the Governor's 
bravado, and to make a grand display ; but the mode 
which should involve the least possible risk of bloodshed, 
was that suggested by duty and humanity. 

Sefior Amaral's absence at the regatta oflTered an 
excellent opportunity, and it was used as I have narrated. 
I am well satisfied to have taken advantage of that 
accident. Had the Governor been on the spot, his high 
spirit would doubtless have urged him to an opposition 
which, though hopeless, might have multipUed subjects 
for regret. 

I have passed over one argument which was much 
relied on at the time by the party who took the anti- 
Amaral side; for the affair, of course, created a great 
sensation, and each side of the question had its advocates. 
I was charged, on the one side, with having " violated a 
territory belonging to the Crown of Portugal.'' To this it 
was ailswered, that Macao does not belong to Portugal ; — 
whence, it would follow, that Portuguese law can have no 
footing there. 

It may certainly be shown that on many occasions 
the Portuguese have either been constrained, or have 
found it convenient, to admit that they have only a 
qualified property in this corner of China ; but I have 
not yet claimed the benefit of this argument ; because, I 
professed only to give the grounds on which I acted at 
the time ; because, I might not then have had at my 



SUBJECT REVIEWED. 107 

fingers' ends the colonial history of Macao ; and because, 
two simpler points were clear to me : — first, that the 
outrage was indefensible under any law ; secondly, that, 
whether the prison stood on Portuguese or on Chinese 
territory, the prisoner was my countryman, and entitled 
to my help. At the same time, I do not forego an argu- 
ment which I have every right to advance, and which is 
supported by authorities of the highest order. I have not 
had time to ask the formal permission of Sir Henry 
Pottinger, late Plenipotentiary in China, and now Governor 
of Madras, to make this use of a note which I received 
from hiiTi last year ; but I have no apprehension that he 
will object to my subjoining the following passage : — 

"My opinion always has been, and will be, that you 
acted quite right in rescuing a British subject fi'om the 
Portuguese at Macao. Tliey have, no sort of rights of 
sovereic/nty there; and I told the Governor, in my day, 
that if any of Her Majest/s subjects took refiige or were 
detained there, I would make him deliver them up. 
Lord Aberdeen approved of my decision ; and my fi-iend 
Keying issued an edict declaring Macao to be on the 
footing of the five ports opened to trade. That I think 
is conclusive.^' 

I have assumed, as I hope I may, that my own state- 
ment of the minuter facts of this case will be received 
as the correct one. Some of the published accounts, 
—gathered, perhaps, with eveiy desire for accuracy, 
yet firom imauthentic or prejudiced sources, — ^are just 



108 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

sufficiently erroneous to affect materiaUy the merits of 
the case. 

For example, the excited Grovemor, on the day fol- 
lowing this event, invited all foreign ofl&cials, then at 
Macao, to attend the funeral of a soldier ^^ assassinated by 
order of Captain KeppeL" Poor man ! he has since met 
his own fate from some real assassins. He was as brave 
an officer as could adorn any service, and I grieve for his 
miworthy end. In my shght collision with him I have 
no doubt whatever that, according to the view he took of 
his position, 

" What he did» he did in honour. 
Led by th' impartial conduct of his soul," 

an apology made and accepted by greater men than either 
of us. I, in turn, will apply to my share of the trans- 
action other words of the same speaker * — 

** Your highness pleased to forget my place. 
The majesty and power of law and justice. 
The image of the Queen whom I presented ; 
Whereon 
I gave bold way to nvy authority.** 

And I cannot but feel perfectly at ease under the opinions 
both of the eminent personages already named, and of 
others equally so, whose correctness of judgment on 
questions of public delicacy, founded not only on the 
general experience . of official life, but on particular know- 
ledge of local circumstances, and appreciation of national 
character, is fiirther guaranteed by their actual career in 

* Chief Justice Qascoigne. 



TOLERATION RECIPROCAL. 109 

the pubUc service, and by the success with which they 
have themselves maintained cm* national honour. 

In seeking to conclude usefully an egotistical chapter, 
I would venture to remind my British fellow subjects, 
who may find themselves where other laws and other 
creeds prevail, that the duty of private individuals is 
often different fi:om that which is officially incumbent 
upon us, who bear about our Sovereign's flag. Let them 
never by indiscretion invite a difficulty, fi:om which they 
must afterwards invite their country's help to rescue them. 
Let them remember that customs and religions are 
redprocaUy strange ; and that, if th^ are allowed in 
a foreign land to practise unmolested their own obser- 
vances, it is by virtue of that same forbearance, which 
they are doubly bound to exercise in turn. No ignorance 
was ever dispelled, no creed ever purified by the con- 
temptuous sneer of a " conscientious '' foreigner. I have 
the greatest respect for the devoted missionary ; but vrith 
reference to such scruples as I suppose to have actuated 
Mr. Summers, I humbly think that, when his conscience 
forbade him to bow himself in the house of Rimmon, 
it might have whispered that principle would be satisfied, 
and contention avoided by his quietly taking his walk 
another way. While the military or naval officer, 
following his severe path of duty, may be pure from the 
blood of all men, self-acquittal may not be so easy to 
him, who, having gone forth to spread the Grospel of 
peace, calls into action his fellow-subjects militant, for 



110 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

his own personal defence, by an unnecessary parade of 
the letter, rather than the spirit of Christianity. What- 
ever may become our bounden duty, when a case has 
actually arisen, let the missionary assure himself that, 
even if laurels could be gained in such coUisions, we 
desire to reap none through his inconsistent or ill-timed 
frowardness ; that while we rejoice, as fellow-members 
of the household of faith, to co-operate with him in every 
land, we accept it not as a pleasure, nor willingly as a 
duty, unless it tends to the magnifying of his offi^ae 
rather than of himself. 

I have alluded to the tragical end of Sefior Amaral, 
which took place not very long after this event. I 
subjoin the particulars, which have now painful interest. 

The position of Macao is on the small peninsula which 
projects from the large islands of Hiangshan, and is about 
eight miles in circumference. The narrow isthmus, 
connecting Macao with the remainder of the island, is 
more than a mile in length, and a barrier wall runs across 
its narrowest part. Along this isthmus the Grovemor 
used to ride almost every day. 

On the evening of the 22nd August, 1849, he was 
taking his usual ride. He had passed through the barrier 
gate, and, having given a quarter-dollar to an infirm 
old China woman, a pensioner on his bounty, was 
quietly proceeding homewards in conversation with his 
aide-de-camp, when he encountered a party of Chinamen, 
about three hundred yards from the barrier gate, coming 



GOVERNOR ASSASSINATED. Ill 

leisurely along the road. Among them was a young man, 
who held in his hand a bamboo of that sort used by coolies 
for carrying goods. Attached to the end of it was a 
bunch of green bushes and flowers, which, on meeting 
the Grovemor, he thrust into his face. The Governor 
turned on his assaQant, exclaiming, "you dog,'' when a 
dash was made at him by six other Chinamen, which 
caused his horse to shy to the left, where the ground was 
broken by an acclivity of two or three feet, which the 
pony cleared. 

It is probable that, as soon as he could pidl up on clear 
ground, his first and &tal impulse was to face his pur- 
suers. He took the bridle in his teeth, raising his only 
arm (the left) to take a pistol from the holsters, when they 
rushed upon him with drawn swords, the foremost of them 
cutting at his arm, by disabling which he would be at their 
mercy. He kept his seat for some time, although he had 
lost a stirrup and was but an indifferent horseman. The 
aide-de-camp observed him fall at length, after he himself 
had been brought to the ground. Having got the Governor 
down, the murderers cut oflF his hand and head, — appa- 
rently by repeated strokes from their blunt swords. The 
lower jaw and part of the tongue remained attached to 
the trunk. The wounds in the body were not mortal. 
The murderers escaped through the barrier, taking with 
them the head and hand of their victim ; and, having 
" chin-chinned Joss " in an adjoining house, embarked in a 
boat they had in waiting. 



112 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

The Hong Kong papers state that two gentlemen on 
horseback witnessed the attack from a short distance, but, 
being unarmed, they could render no sussistance ! 

Lieutenant J. P. Leite, the aide-de-camp, stated that, 
when the Governor's horse shied from the six Chinamen, 
he made an attempt to go to his assistance ; on which 
three of them turned upon him, and cut him down from 
his horse : he still held the rein ; but on attempting to 
get up he received a second cut on the head, and the 
pony escaped. When he was on the ground he observed 
the Governor falling oflF, but did not hear a sound from 
him : he saw the Chinese gathering round and hacking at 
the body. He then got upon his feet, and ran forward, 
pursued for several paces by two of the murderers. 

There were various surmises as to the motive for this 
foul deed ; and most people were inclined to beUeve that 
it had been instigated by the Chinese Grovemment. 

That a murder so cunningly devised, and so boldly 
executed, was not the act of common robbers is evident 
fi^m the fact, that the murderers did not plunder their 
victim : a watch and other valuables were left on the 
body of the unfortunate Governor. That it was a political 
murder is proved by the &ct, that the head and hand were 
taken away, to serve for evidence that the hired assassins 
had performed their horrid office, for which no doubt they 
were promised a large reward. 

It is pretty certain that twenty-four hours after the 
murder the ghastly proofe of it were in possession of the 



PORTUGUESE RETALIATION. 113 

Canton patriots, and probably gloated over by Com- 
missioner Sen himself. 

It is not for me to animadvert on the probable cause of 
the Celestial Government taking this truly Chinese mode 
of ridding themselves of a troublesome neighbour. His 
Excellency had lately acted upon his Uberal, free-trade 
feeling, in ridding Macao of the Chmese Hoppo, or Custom 
House, which had existed since the Portuguese first rented 
Macao. He had also, for the purpose of improving the 
drive on which the European residents took their exercise, 
cut a pretty road through an extensive burial-ground, 

thereby disturbing the remains of many hundred Celes- 
tials, — a point on which they entertain very strong 

prejudices. 

The excitement in Macao was great. The troops were 

not to be restrained : they insisted on changing a too 

peaceably inclined commander, by whom they were kept 

in check, for a Captain Ricardo, an energetic officer, in 

whom they had confidence. They sallied forth — a force 

of 120 men — and captured, in gallant style, a fort situated 

near the barrier. The storming party, of thirty-five men, 

was headed by a Lieutenant Mesqueda. The Portuguese 

had seven wounded ; the Chinese seventy-four killed. 

The houses around the fort were fired, and no fewer than 

forty guns spiked. In a spirit of hasty and unjustifiable 

retaliation, however, they tarnished these laurels by 

bringing away the head and left hand of the mandarin 

who had charge of the fort : these they stuck on a pole in 



114 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

front of the house where the remains of the Governor were 
lymg. Poor Amaral would have been as much disgusted 
by this substitution as were the Portuguese authorities 
themselves, who immediately removed these trophies. 

All remonstrances, as well as threats, on the part of 
Portugal have hitherto been unavailing for recovery, 
from the Chinese Government, of the lost head and hand. 
Many substitutes have, I beUeve, been oflfered. 
■ On 27th May, 1850, the new Grovernor, Commodore 
Pedro Alexandrine de Cunha^ arrived at Macao, in the 
Don John, of twenty-two guns, and the Dofia Maria II,, 
frigate, of thirty-two guns, also arrived from Groa, with 
a Company of Artillery ; and with this extra force it 
was supposed His Excellency would bring the China 
authorities to a sense of what was due to Portugal. 
Most unfortunately, however, the Dofia Maria while lying 
in the Typa anchorage, on the 29th September following, 
blew up with a terrific explosion, by which 188 lives 
were lost. The cause of this accident remains a mystery. 
The ship had been dressed out in honour of the birthday 
of the Prince Consort of Portugal Out of 224 on the 
ship's books, only thirty-six were alive at the subsequent 
muster. The Captain and most of the officers perished. 

The " Boletein do Governo '^ concludes its accounts of 
these melancholy events with : — " Would to God that this 
be the last of the no small series of calamities that has 
afflicted this establishment ! '^ 



MANILLA. lis 



CHAPTER VII 



DBFABTUKl FOa MAVILLA — ITS BAT, BIVEB, CITY, VILLAGES, AHD MAHTTfAOTUBM — 
■OePrCALRT — TUP TO THB LAKES— OAYITA — ^EEQAL STATE OV THE OOYEBHOB 
— rEBIlS OF A PATEVT Of FOBILITT — DEPARTUBB PBOM MABILLA — SHIP 
AOBOUEB— ABBIYAL AT LABUAH — TAKE IE OOAL — FBWS OP PIRATE FLEET 
HAYIEO PUT TO SEA — ^DEPAETirRB FOR THE OOAST OF BORHBO. 

Wb left the scene of our " untoward event '' early on 
the foUowmg mommg; and on the 21st anchored in 
Manilla Bay. Respecting either the bay or the city it 
would be difficult to write anything new. The bay is 
twenty-five miles in circumference, and receives many 
rivers. The city, happily situated at the mouth of the 
Pasig, is the capital of the Spanish settlement in the 
PhiUippine Islands. The Fasig is navigable as &r as the 
lakes, of which there is a succession, the nearest being 
about three leagues eastward of the town. On their 
borders may be seen upwards of a hundred picturesque 
Indian villages, chiefly built of bamboo. The prevalence 
of earthquakes has prevented the erection of lofty build- 
ings ; nevertheless, the city has an opulent and substantial 
appearance firom the anchorage, to which, however, 

i2 



116 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

the numerous churches and monasteries contribute 
largely. 

Its extensive manufiwture of cheroots is well known. 
In one building alone are employed some 14,000 women, 
all talking at the same time, but kept in tolerable order by 
female overseers of austere aspect. There are also manu- 
factories for the beautifully-embroidered pina cloth, made 
from the fibres of the pine-apple leaf It is a pleasure to 
acknowledge the kind and hearty welcome with which a 
man-of-war is invariably received at Manilla, especially by 
the mercantile community, — our transatlantic brethren 
vying with our own countrymen in hospitality. Our 
arrival seemed to be made an excuse for a Uttle relaxation 
from the duties of the counting-house; and, during the 
eight days that the ship remained in the bay, there was a 
succession of pic-nics, dinners, and balls. Excusing myself 
from accepting the kind invitation of Mr. Farren, the 
Consul, I returned to the old quarters where I had been 
so kindly received, while in the Dido^ by my friend 
Mr. F. Richardson, of the firm of Paterson and Co. 

One party visited the lakes, which they had heard 
described in such glowing terms, and they appeared 
particularly to enjoy themselves. 

The canoes afford a most luxurious mode of travelling. 
They are paddled along by natives, who ply at either end, 
the passenger occupying the centre : he may at his 
pleasure turn into a comfortable bed, sheltered from the 
rain or sun by a mat-covering, which is supported on 



EXCURSION TO THE LAKES. 117 

bamboos, arched over from side to side. There is room 
also for a portmanteau and gun-case. Two or more people 
may be accommodated in this way. The kind friend, who 
had given our party a letter of introduction to a gentle- 
man residing on the borders of the lakes, likewise took 
care to see that they should have a well-supplied 
commissariat. 

The following account of the excursion is taken from 
the notes of one of the party : — 

" We took canoe, and paddled up the river, on either 
side of which the country-houses and gardens of the 
inhabitants extended for miles. 

" It was dark when we reached the entrance to the 
lakes ; and our boatmen took it easy during the night : 
but at daylight, when we rubbed our eyes and looked 
around us, the change seemed magical. Instead of the 
Harrow and very muddy river on which we were 
paddling when we went to sleep, we found ourselves 
on the bosom of a magnificent lake measuring several 
miles across, and in water which, although fresh, was 
deep and blue in appearance. The hills, or rather 
mountains, came sloping down from the clouds to the 
water's edge; we could see the fish rising in all 
directions. As we passed by headlands, or emerged 
from groups of islands, fresh expanses of the lakes 
opened before us, all of the same beautifrd character. 
It was in fiact one large lake, though in many places 
nearly separated into several different basins, by narrow 



118 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

passes and numerous islets. We went on wondering 

and admiring, until we reached our friend's residence in 

the vicinity of a large and flourishing village. To our 
great disappointment he was absent from home, having 

gone on a visit to the Pueblo of San Francisco, a pro- 
vincial town about ten miles off* at the extremity of 
the lake. We managed to make his " Major Domo " under- 
stand our wants; whereupon he unlocked the doors, 
kicked out the dogs, and made us comfortable with a 
hot breakfisist. After this he provided us with a guide 
to the summit of a hill in the vicinity, commanding an 
extensive view. On our way thither we passed through 
the village, which is approached by pleasant lanes, 
sheltered from the sun by hedges of bamboo, the ends 
of which, gracefully inclining inwards, formed an arch 
overhead. The houses were clean and well-built, with 
white walls and neatly-thatched roo& : the streets are 
built at right angles ; and there is, after the common 
fashion of Spanish towns, a pla^a, or square, in the centre. 

" The inhabitants, who are of a mixed breed between 
the Spanish and Indians, appeared entirely agricultural 
in their pursuits and resources : they send their produce 
by canoes to Manilla. 

" The low-land, between the village and the lulls at 
the back, was drained and highly cultivated. The com 
fields were generally fringed with groves of cocoa-nut 
trees, affording a very pleasant and necessary retreat 
from the noonday sun. 



THE LAKES. 119 

"It was intensely hot, and the hill ascent very laborious ; 
but the view from the summit was worth the trouble. 
Looking in the direction where we imagined we had 
entered the waters, we were at fault ; for the labyrinth 
of lakes seemed interminable — basin after basin of blue 
water appearing one above the other. Some of the distant 
land lay high ; it sloped gradually to the water's edge, and 
seemed to be capable of any degree of cultivation. 

" In an opposite direction the lake-view was not equally 
extensive, but bounded by higher mountains, at the 
foot of which, in a plain beyond, communicating by 
rivers with the lake, stands the town of San Francisco. 
The view on this side was more Kvely, the monotony of 
the lake being relieved by the white sails of the numerous 
canoes passing to and fro. The low-land immediately 
beneath our feet, bordering the lake, was teeming with 
herds of cattle. Altogether the scene was indescribably 
beautiful. 

''It seemed strange to us that agriculture was so partially 
pursued on the shores of these lakes, where the soil was 
so rich, where easy means of irrigation are at command, 
and where the water-communication from all parts with 
Manilla is so open and easy. The explanation given waa 
that all communication, whether by land or water, is 
insecure ; liable to the attacks of banditti, — ^these are 
composed partly of deserters from the army, and partly 
of native Indians, a race still untamed and unimpressible, 
as to the advantages of quiet commerce. 



120 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

^' We found that villages, much nearer Manilla than those 

now in our view, were nightly kept on the qui-vive by this 

source of alarm. It is strange that this should be a true 

complaint so near the capital of the Phillippine Islands, 

colonised by the Spaniards upwards of three centuries 
ago — ^but so it was. 

'* Returning to the village in the afternoon, and not being 
able to learn anything definite about the probabiUty of 
our Mend's return, we gave up the hope of shooting and 
rejoined our canoes with some regret, imagining that, 
much as we had seen, we might possibly have missed 
some of the beauties of these lakes through want of a 
competent cicerone. 

" We had also heard of the existence of a volcano in 
this neighbourhood, said to be sometimes in activity — ^but 
we did not see it. Fairly embarked again in our canoes, 
we slept oflF our disappointment, and awoke the next 
morning in Manilla.^' 

The white buildings of the naval arsenal at Cavita, 
situated in the bay nine miles to the southward of Manilla, 
may be seen from the anchorage. This town, commanding 
respect by its antiquity, was founded by Don Miguel 
Lopez de Legaspi, the first Captain-GeneraJ, about 1564. 
It still contains the remains of one of that interesting 
class of vessels, the Spanish galleon — ^the last of its order, 
— now rotting in the basin. 

I had the honour of being entertained by His Excel- 
lency, General Don Antonio Maria Blanco, Field-Marshal, 



SPANISH ETIQUETTE. 121 

Commanding-in-Chief, — doing the duties of the Captain- 
Greneraly who was absent on a tour in search of health. 
I was much struck by the more than regal state and 
etiquette observed by the Don. The dinner was excellent. 
Aides-de-camp, in handsome scarlet uniform, stood at 
each end of the table and carved : they entered into 
conversation, and made themselves very agreeable, but 
never attempted to eat, nor even to sit down except 
during the changing of the courses ; and then only at a 
distance from the festive board. 

The Captain-General, Don Marciso Claverfa, had lately 
been made a Grandee of Spain, under the title of Conde 
de Manilla, for his services in putting down a horde of 
pirates at Balagnini. The patent of nobility had been 
sent out by the Overland Mail ; and the officer in charge, 
who was conveying it from the mail-steamer at Hong 
Kong to the Spanish Gharge-d'affaires at Macao, happened 
to be in one of the vessels that was attacked by the 
Chinese pirates, some of whom were afterwards hanged 
at Hong Kong. This officer was murdered, and -his 
portmanteau, containing the Letters Patent beautifully 
illuminated in gold, was retaken in the junk that was 
captured by the boats of the Injlea^ible, and had thus 
just reached the hands of the Condessa. I found her 
rejoicing over its contents when I called to pay my 
respects. 

We sailed from Manilla on the 2nd July. Passing 
round the north end and down the coast of Luban, we 



122 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

ran between that coast and the Cabras Islands ; and on 
the 6th, after passing between Mmdoro and the Appo 
shoal, we steered to the southward for the passage to the 
eastward of Palawan. In workmg down we experienced 
very fine weather, but light and variable winds : the coast 
was free from dangers, and in that respect far preferable 
to the western side. 

On the 13th, we landed on East Island, while the ship 
ran between it and the coast. On the 16th, made the 
Peak of Balabac. 

The following morning, at five o'clock, just as we had 
set the studding-sails to a freshening breeze, the ship 
running fast, she took the ground at the top of high- 
water, on a coral bank not laid down, and close to which 
we had worked the ship before without noticing the 
appearance of any danger. Having plenty of head-way, 
she shot twice her length before she stopped. The tide 
beginning to &11, we had only time to get the sails furled 
and top-gallant masts on deck, before she began to heel 
over, which she continued to do until she had attained 
38 deg. from the upright position. If a ship is to be got 
oflF, it is generally by the same road by which she got on. 
The weather was fine and the water smooth ; so that we 
had nothing for it but to " turn to '^ with a will 

Having laid a bower-anchor out astern, and hove 
the cable well taut, we sent the pinnace to Labuan for 
assistance, and lightened the ship by throwing the guns 
overboard, and lading the boats with shot and other 



MJSANDER ON A BEEF. 123 

weighty maCeriab. The next morniDg, at half-pafit seven, 
the ship floated The only way that I know of, to enable 
a man — especially if he be the Captain — fully to appre- 
ciate the agreeable sensation that I experienced on feeling 
the ship once more alive, and moving back into deep 
water, is to let him first get into a jUo similar to that from 
which the Maander had just escaped. By break&st-time 
the following morning we were running, with all sail set, 
for Balambangan; and, if the rusty appearance of the 
muzzles of the guns had not told tales, no one who might 
have met us could have seen that anything had happened. 

Before the pinnace had lost sight of the ship, the tide 
had &llen to its lowest ; and the huge hull appearing on 
the horizon had looked so perfectly helpless, and its 
position so unlike what they ever expected to see her in 
again, that the crew of the pinnace gave a desponding 
accoimt of her on their arrival at Labuan. 

The next day in Eimanis Bay we met the H.E.I.C. 
steam-frigate SemiramiSy Commander Daniell, coming 
to our assistance. The crew manned the rigging, and 
congratulated us on our escape by three hearty cheers. 

23rd. — Came to, off the Coal Point, Labuan. Coal had 
become so scarce at Sincapore, that the Commander-in- 
Chief had sent to borrow some from the Dutch Govern- 
ment at Batavia. All the surface of the fine coal seam 
had been picked off by the person who had contracted, 
before the charter was granted to the E. Archipelago 
Company, to supply our steamers with coal ; and that part 



124 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

of the seam at which they were now working was some 
three hundred yards from the water's edge ; and, although 
labour was cheap and the contract price had been 
raised, they could with difficulty work out ten tons per 
day. By working in the cool of the morning and 
evening, we put on board in a few days 150 tons, filling 
the after-hold. We had just completed our dirty job, 
when the news reached us that the Sakarran and Serebas 
pirate fleet had put to sea, and that the Albatross, 
accompanied by Sir James Brooke and his native force, 
was out in search of them ; but I may as well state at 
once that the pirate fleet was even then destroyed, as we 
ascertained on reaching the Bomean coast. 

While, however, our ship is on her way thither, I will 
endeavour to contribute towards the conviction of the 
unprejudiced a few of those stubborn facts, from which it 
may be decided whether the sufferers at the hands 
of Captain Farquhar and Sir James Brooke were 
" peaceful traders '' or blood-thirsty and systematic 
pirates. There wiU always be some peculiarly constituted 
minds, fortified by a sort of moral gutta-percha, through 
which neither pre-conceived opinion can evaporate, nor 
a deluge, even, of new evidence effect an entrance. For 
such persons it were vain to write : they can but be 
recommended to visit the Eastern Archipelago. Let 
them cross the path of these peaceful traders. They 
will probably return better able than before to define a 
pirate, and to illustrate the uses of a kris. 



PIRACY QUESTION. 125 

Not discouraged, however, by a few impenetrables, I 
shall devote the next chapter to a brief account of the 
piratical communities of the Bomean seas ; and to a 
notice of the proofe which have been accumulated that 
they are piratical communities. As an eyewitness, 
already honoured with credit, generally, so far as I have 
contributed my mite of testimony, I feel bound to add 
that which I have more recently collected. 

The charitable determination of some well-meaning 
" philanthropists," to think no evil of the " poor Dyaks ^' 
imfortunately reduces to the category of murderers and 
liars certain of their fellow-countrymen, whom the same 
charity might suppose to be as well-meaning and as 
honourable as themselves, while reason must allow them 
to be better informed. 

The publication of this volume having been imex- 
pectedly delayed, in waiting for the map and illustrations, 
I now find many of my remarks, on the subject of piracy 
especially, anticipated by the author of an able and 
interesting article in the "Edinburgh Review," No. 195. 
Its perusal has made me hesitate to shew myself in the 
same path with a writer whom I can foUow only at a 
distance : but, being one of the very witnesses whom he 
has honoured with notice, I have determined to let the 
whole work stand as if I had not seen the "Review,*' 
offering to the same able writer, or to others, on subjects 
which I hope will not be dropped, the results of my 
further actual experience and ocular observations. 



126 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 



CHAPTER VIII 



MALAYS AVD DTAKB A8 EB8P10T8 THBIB PIBATIGAL OHAJULOTI&— B1KBBA8 MALAT8 — 
SBUBAf DTAK8 — THS MALAY P&AHU — THB DYAK BAHGKORO — SAKAR&AX8 — 
BIMABSB OH THEIE PIBATIOAL PROPBHSITIBfl, AHD OH OUB FOBMBB OPBRATIOBB 
AOAUIBT THBM — PEBPARATI0N8 Of THB 8BBSBAS PtBATBS — PEBPABATIOBB OF THB 
BAJAH or SARAWAK — PI&ATB PBI80BBB BROUGHT IB — ^ATTAOK OB SAIMBO BY 
THB 8BBBBAS PIBATBS— A OHIBf DUBODOBa — HIS f ATB — RBMARK8 — THB BAJAH 
OV SARAWAK SALUBS FORTH WITH HIS FLBBT — IS JOIBBD BY BATIYB ALLIB8— 
HIS PROOBBDIBGS — RBTVRB TO SARAWAK. 

The Serebas, like the inhabitants of the other rivers 
on the north-west coast of Borneo are divided into two 
distinct classes — ^the Malays and the Dyaks. 

The origin of the present Malay race of Serebas is 
a question unsettled by ethnologists. They are not 
indigenous, as the Dyaks are. Once, however, established 
in their present locality, they would naturally fidl under 
the dominion of the Sultan of Borneo. But it is recorded 
that, towards the end of the seventeenth century, they 
rejected his rule, and offered to become subjects of the 
3ultan of Johore, from whose country it has been supposed 
that they sprung, and whose power was then considerable. 



MALAYS OF 8EREBAS. 127 

The advantage to the Serebas from this transfer of their 
allegiance would be great They would no longer pay 
tribute, from the proceeds of their depredations, to the 
Sultan of Borneo : while the Sultan of Johore, having 
an acknowledged claim, would find it a troublesome 
one to enforce. The Sultan of Borneo, however, has 

never given up his right of sovereignty over the Serebas 
country, though it is now only nominal 

In these political tactics, which secured to them a 
field for depredation without any one really to call 
them to accoimt, we have early indications of a character 
which the Malays of Serebas have ever since sustained. 

The piratical character of the Malays in general has 
never been disputed. 

" It is in the Malay's nature,^' says an intelligent 
Dutcli writer, " to rove on the seas in his prahu, as it 
is in that of the Arab to wander with his steed on the 
sands of the desert. It is as impossible to limit the 
adventurous life of a Malay to fishing and trading, as to 
retain an Arab in a village or in a habitation.^' 

The Malays of Serebas have never been an exception, 
in this respect, to those of the same race located on the 
various sea-coasts of the Eastern Archipelago: in fact 
they differ in no material point from the Malays of other 
places — ^all are equally addicted to piracy. This is not 
merely their habit ; it may be termed their instinct. All 
are equally warlike, equally well armed. From their 
superiority in these respects, and in point of civilisation, 



128 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

they are in the position of rulers and protectors to the 
DyaJc8. 

The Malayan community of Serebas, however, never 
exceeded 1500 fighting men; and their depredations 
were, for some time, limited to the plunder of such vessels 
as they could overcome with that force at sea. The 
captured crews were on all occasions carried into slavery. 

The Dyaks of the Serebas country comprise of them- 
selves numerous communities, numbering several thousand 
warriors. While their warlike operations were confined 
to the intertribal feuds so common among savages, their 
weapons were the spear and the sword, — ^formidable 
enough in Dyak hands : they adopted, however, other 
arms, according as they became mixed up with the 
operations of the Malays, in the manner which I shall 
presently explain ; but they always were, and still are, a 
distinct people. 

Such being the state of things in the Serebas country, 
the Dyaks, about eighty or even one hundred years ago, 
were gradually trained to piracy by the Malays, com- 
mencing their apprenticeship as pullers in the Malayan 
prahus, in which service they were rewarded with the 
heads of the slain (for which they had a peculiar taste), 
and they received also such captives as were useless to 
the Malays for slavery. 

In the course of time these Dyaks became expert 
seamen ; they built a description of prahu, or bangkong, 
peculiarly suited to their stealthy and rapid movements ; 



DYAK HEAD-HUNTING. 129 

And, together with the Malays, formed the flei9ts composed 
of one hundred or more prahus, which swept the seas, and 
devastated the shores of Borneo over a distance of 800 
miles. 

The Dyaks soon became aware of their own power; 
and, accordingly, both in their internal government and 
on their piratical expeditions, their chiefe in time attained 
equal authority with the Malayan rulers : the plunder 
also, whether of vessel or village, was equally divided 
between Malay and Dyak ; but no male captive was 
wiUingly spared by them, owing to the propensity of the 
Dyaks for . collecting heads. It will be remembered, from 
the earlier journals of the Rajah of Sarawak, that the 
present of a head is exacted from every aspirant to a 
Dyak bride, — this preliminary being " established from 
time immemorial, and indispensable/' So far as the 
Bajah's influence extends, this barbarous custom is, with 
many others, fast disappearing. Some of the young 
Dyaks have plainly stated that they would give up head- 
hunting, were it not for the taunts and gibes of their wives 
and sweethearts, who threaten to put on them the bedung 
(petticoat) if they do not procure, and lay at their feet, 
these ghastly trophies of their bravery. They never 
attempt to disguise the fact, that they go forth in their 
expeditions excited by no injuries, seeking no revenge, 
but simply intent on plunder, and above all on heads. 

Thus the character of piracy was altered, and rendered 
more bloody, by the infusion of this Dyak element. I 



130 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

therefore wish my readers distinctly to keep in view, that 
the pirates who are the subjects of this chapter are the 
Malays and Dyaks of Serebas ; that it was against these 
Malays and Dyaks^ conjointly, that I had to act in 
the years 1843 and 1844, and against whom Captain 
Farquhar wa^ engaged in 1849. 

When I mention the Serebas as pirates, I include with 
these the Sakarran Dyaks. The Serebas inhabit the interior 
of the river of the same name, and the country near the 
sources of the Lipat, a branch of the Ealuka river. The 
Sakarrans live on the left-hand branch of the Batang 
Lupar, and on the Eanowit, the EaUbas, and other 
tributaries of the Rejang. All the tribes and their 
several divisions have inland communication with each 
other; and when a piratical balla is fitted out in one 
river, all who are disposed to join it cross overland to tho 
place of rendezvous, and assist in manning the bangkongs. 
At other times the Malays of Serebas (about 1500 in 
number, armed with lelas and musketry,) compose the 
principal part of the fighting men in the Dyak bangkongs. 
The former was the case in March 1849 — ^when Sadong 
was attacked by the pirates, and one hundred people 
slaughtered. The latter plan was in force when the 
Serebas were engaged by Captain Farquhar four months 
later ; the heavy Malayan prahus had been left behind, 
to enable them to baffle an enemy whom they knew they 
were not unlikely to meet at sea : to each of these 
occasions I shall have to refer more particularly. 



MALAY AND DYAK VESSELS. 131 

The Malayan inhabitants of Serebas are, as I have 
before stated, armed in the same manner as the Malays 
of other places. Their weapons are the kris (indis- 
pensable to every Malay), the spear, and whatever fire- 
arms they choose to obtain from the free market of 
Sincapore. 

A word now on the description of vessel in which they 
make their piratical cruises. These are of two kinds : 
the Malay prahuy and the Dyak bangkong. The war- 
prahu of the Malays of Serebas is in no respect inferior 
to that used by those most notorious pirates, the Lanuns 
and Balagnini. I have known one of these piratical 
prahus measure ninety feet in length, with a proportionate 
beam. The usual armament of such a vessel would be 
one gun— from a six to a twelve-pounder— in the bow ; 
from four to six swivels, or lelas, on each broadside ; 
besides about twenty or thirty rifles or muskets. ^^^" 
boats would pull from sixty to eighty oars, in two tiers ; 
and her complement of men would be from eighty to one 
hundred. Over the pullers, and extending the whole 
length of the vessel, is a light but strong flat roof, made 
of thin strips of bamboo, and covered with matting. This 
protects their ammunition and provisions from the rain, 
and serves as a platform on which they mount to fight, 
and from which they fire their muskets or hurl their 
spears with great precision. The rowers sit cross-legged 
on a shelf projecting outwards from the bends of the 
vessel. A vessel of this description, well known on the 

k2 



132 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

coast, belonging to the Laksimana of Serebas, was de- 
stroyed by Captain Farqnhar at Paku, SeriflF Mullah's 
prahu, captured by the Didds boats at Undop, was of 
the same formidable class : many others seen by our 
officers on their various expeditions were fully as for- 
midable, or more so. Such is the class of vessel in 
common use with the Malays of Serebas for the purposes 
of piracy. 

The Dyak bangkongs, drawing but a few inches water, 
are both lighter and faster than the prahus of the Malays, 
with a long overhanging stem and stem ; they measure 
a hundred feet in length, by nine or ten ia beam. These 
bangkongs are usually propelled by from sixty to eighty 
paddles ; they are as swift as an eight-oared London 
wherry, and can be turned at full speed in their own 
length. Each bangkong, besides its regular complement 
of Dyaks, carries a few Malays armed with musketry, 
and they occasionally mount one or two small lelas. They 
are equally efficient for pursuit and for ffight ; and their 
stealthy and noiseless approach gives no warning to their 
victims, who have been too often surprised, and over- 
whelmed with a shower of spears in the dead of the night 

I have here given a description of a Malayan prahu 
and a Dyak bangkong of Serebas, of the first-doss. The 
vessels are essentially different, in all respects ; there are 
of course, belonging to each description, numerous vessels 
of smaller size and armament ; the complement, whether 
in the one or the other, may be very moderately com- 



THEIR PIRACY UNDENIABLE. 133 

puted at an average of thirty-five men. On some 
occasions, and according to the nature of the service on 
which they are engaged, the heavily armed Malayan 
prahus, and the swift and destructive Dyak bangkongs, 
form one fleet or baUa. 

It was in 1843, when I first visited Sarawak, that I 
made every necessary inquiry, to convince myself of the 
real character of these communities before acting against 
them. I collected such a mass of testimony fi*om 
numerous persons of various nations — from Malays, 
Dyaks, and Chinese — ^from the Bajah Muda Hassim — 
from the Datus of Sarawak — from respectable men of 
many other rivers — and from my own countrymen, as 
left no doubt whatever of the extensive and systematic 
depredation carried on by these pirates. I became 
assured that a large amount of human life was annually 
sacrificed ; that the coast was devastated, and the trade 
destroyed by these marauders ; and therefore I did not 
hesitate to act against them on my own responsibility — 
I considered it a duty incumbent upon me to do so. The 
result fully confirmed my expectations, — the piratical 
ravages of the Serebas were checked; and their discom- 
fiture, even for a season, conferred the greatest benefit 
upon the peaceful inhabitants of the coast. It was to 
me a fair subject of regret to have been ordered to China 
firom this sphere of usefulness. 

I had the satisfaction of finding what was done- at this 
time entirely approved of by the British Government— 



134 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

and it may be added, by the British pubUc, declaring 
itself by its acknowledged organ, the influential portion 
of the press, — ^nor was any voice then raised on the side 
of what I must consider mistaken and short-sighted 
humanity, allying itself with the pirate against the 
peaceful trader. My successors on the station, arriving 
there equally unprejudiced, but resorting in like manner 
to the evidence of their senses, adopted the same views 
as myself; nor am I aware that a doubt on this subject 
was entertained, either in England or abroad, during the 
three following years. 

In 1849 I was again appointed, as Captam of the 
MceandeVy to carry out the suppression of piracy on that 
same coast of Borneo, and against this very people, the 
Serebas. Arriving on the station, I instituted fresh 
inquiries into the recent acts of piracy committed by 
them ; and I should with ample reason have again 
adopted the severest measures, had I not been once more 
ordered to China. Captain Farquhar, who succeeded 
me, met and defeated these pirates in llie manner 
which I shall presently describe ; and then arose 
an outcry in England, the secret springs of which 
I will abstain from conjecturing, or rather from directly 
pointing to. 

It assumed a shape which sufficiently indicated its 
source, — that of unscrupulous calumny, aimed princi- 
pally at one individual whom I am proud to call 
my friend ; one with whom I first made acquaintance 



SIR JAMES BROOKE. 135 

at the ends of the earth, occupying a position unpre- 
cedented for an European as a friend of the human 
race. 

'* Men, that make 
Envy and crooked malice nouriBliment^ 
Dare bite the best," 

" Men's minds will feed either upon their own good or 
upon others' evil ; and who wanteth the one, will prey upon 
the other : and whoso is out of hope to attain to another's 
virtue, will seek to come at even hand by depressing 
another's fortune." Whatever be the motives of Sir James 

Brooke's detractors, they have not succeeded in their 

• 

aims. Even while their 

"gaU coins slanders like a mint, 
To match him in comparisons with dirt, 
Opihion crowns him with imperial voice ! " 

And I feel assured, that every shaft they shall 
hurl with the same unworthy aim will, like the 
boomerang thrown by a clumsy hand, revert upon 
their own heads : I despair of its touching any more 
hopeful part 

The subject of piracy has during the last three years 
given rise to repeated discussions in Parliament; but 
these have assiuned the tone not so much of enlightened 
debate as to the best means of suppressing it, as of fierce 
attacks on all that has been done for this end, and on 
the characters of those employed, — on their humanity, 
their disinterestedness, their veracity. As one of the 
officers implicated with the "Anglo-Malayan Rajah" in 



136 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

such serious charges, I cannot refrain, although well 
satisfied with our honourable defenders in both Houses, 
from using this opportunity to take my own part,, and 
that of my friends and co-operators in a work which, I 
again say, cannot be left incomplete without increasing 
peril to the best interests of humanity. As the gravest 
charges advanced against us all had their origin and 
foundation in the severe chastisement of a piratical fleet 
by Captain Farquhar, I will in due order advert to the 
acts of these particular pirates, the Malays and Dyaks of 
Serebas and Sakarran, immediately before their chastise- 
ment ; then to the action itself, and to the movements 
subsequently made in following up the blow. I will next 
notice as fairly as I can the charges against all concerned 
which arose out of these proceedings — the Parliamentary 
organ of our accusers being the honourable member for 
Montrose. Lastly, I will endeavour to give as full and 
complete an answer to all objectors, as facts and experience 
may supply. 

I have already stated that the Bajah of Sarawak, on 
his return thither from England, in September 1848, 
discovered that an intrigue was on foot, of which the 
object was to re-estabUsh a nucleus of piracy at Songi, 
the former residence of a notorious pirate, Serifi* Sahibe, 
on a branch of the Sadong river. To nip in the bud this 
mischief, which had germinated during his absence in 
England, the Rajah sent up immediately a suflBicient force 
to make an, imposing demonstration, and took such 



PIRATICAL MOVEMENTS. 137 

further measures as removed all ground for apprehension 
in that quarter. The Mceander's boats accompanied those 
of Sarawak on this occasion. 

In the Serebas country, also, active preparations had 
been for some time going on to fit for sea a formidable 
piratical balla ; but the unexpected arrival on the coast of 
so powerful a ship as the Mceander, and the news, which 
soon spread to the Serebas, that her boats had already 
visited the Sadong, operated for the time as a check upon 
their active measures. No sooner, however, did the 
departure of the Mceander leave the Bornean ctoast 
without a man-of-war, — the steamer of the station being 
employed in keeping up communication between Labuan 
and Sincapore, — than the Serebas pirates resumed those 
preparations for fresh atrocities, in which they spend all the 
time not actuaUy taken up in executing evil deeds already 
planned. The absence from Sarawak of the Rajah himself 
during the four following months facilitated and encou- 
raged their proceedings. It will be remembered that, 
after a very brief sojourn at Sarawak, on his return from 
England, he had gone on in the Mceander to Labuan (his 
new seat of Government under the British Crown). 
There we left him, while we made another trip to 
Sincapore : returning, we took him on a cruise of health, 
during which too he made oflBcial visits, particularly to 
the Sultan of Soloo ; after this we brought him back to 
Labuan, and left him there ; -and again visiting Sincapore, 
we found awaiting us orders to proceed to China. Calling 



138 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

at Sarawak on our way, at the end of February, we found 
that the Rajah had abeady returned thither from Labuan 
in the Royalist^ and had found it necessary to take imme- 
diate measures against the Serebas and Sakarran pirates, 
whose audacity had run riot during his absence at 
Labuan, The energy of the Kajah of Sarawak would 
urge hun at any time to make head against a great evil, 
even single-handed ; but it is quite certain that, so long 
as piracy flourishes as at present, he must always be 
left with formidable odds against him, when he has not 
the assistance of a British man-of-war. The insolence 
of the pirates had by this time so increased, that they 
had sent the Rajah a message of defiance, daring him to 
come out against them, taimting him with cowardice, 
and comparing him to a woman. This tone of security 
in the Serebas was certainly rather to be lamented than 
wondered at : they had lately with impunity captured 
several trading boats, devastated two rivers, burned three 
villages, and slaughtered at least four hundred persons, — 
men, women, and children. " Why does the navy sleep?'' 
ajsks a published letter of this date, from Sarawak ; — 
" Where is Captain Keppel ? '' That is to say, they were 
casting a longing look after the last British frigate, — 
which, like Paul Pry, " just dropping in, and hoping she 
didn't intrude," had left them to the unequal contest. 

On the 27th February, a fine young man was brought 
into Sarawak as a prisoner, having been picked up by 
a boat at sea. He was a Serebas pirate, and had 



PIRATES UP THE SADONG. 139 

belonged to a squadron which had jdestroyed one of 
the villages in the Delta of the Rejang. He had gone 
to a short distance inland, on a little excursion of 
his own, to procure a few heads for his private 
gratification ; and, on his return to the river's side, he 
found that the balla to which he belonged had sailed 
away. Unwilling to trust himself to the mercies of 
the people whom he and his countrymen had so ill used, 
he placed himself on a floating nipah pahn-tree, and 
pushed into the stream, hoping that the flood-tide might 
carry him up the river. The ebb, however, which ran 
the strongest, conveyed him out to sea ; and there he 
was found, and brought in for judgment. After a short 
detention, he was dismissed with a suitable, but useless 
caution to his chiefe. 

That the caution was useless will sufficiently appear 
fix>m the fact that, on the 1st March, a formidable force 
of Serebas pirates, comprising between sixty and one 
hundred prahus, dashed up the Sadong river, headed by a 
notorious chief, the Laksimana of Paku, and attacked in 
detail the detached farm-houses which are situated on 
the river for some miles below the town of Gradong. The 
town itself they did not attempt, knowing it to be strong 
and well prepared for defence. 

They had selected for their purpose the time of harvest, 
when the men were widely scattered, and the imfortunate 
women and diildren were left unprotected. The farm- 
houses attacked in this state generally fall an easy prey. 



140 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

The strong tides which set up these rivers materially 
assist the invading party to take their victims by surprise. 
They reached the devoted river soon after the dawn of 
day. The mode of proceeding is as follows : — The foremost 
bangkong of the balla stops abreast of the first farm- 
house to which they come ; the crew rush on shore, 
and the heads of the sleeping and unsuspecting inmates 
are in a few minutes secured. The rest of the fleet 
push on ; and regularly, as they move up the river, 
the leading boats stop by twos and threes, at each 
successive farm-house, and enact their respective tragedies. 

Upwards of one hundred heads were taken in this 
expedition by these murderous villaina Of all those 
whose ferms were attacked, one man only, Abong Sadik, 
happening to be weU prepared,-his firearms ready, 
and his powder dry, — made a successful defence. His 
people had just commenced work, when the enemy 
swept up the reach. Twenty-seven of his men got 
back to the house in time. Pulling up the ladders — 
the Malay houses, as is well known, being built on 
piles — they shot down the first three pirates that landed ; 
on which the remainder, abandoning for the present 
their hope of beheading that particular establishment, 
moved on to see if the iumates were as wide awake 
next door. 

A few select ruffians of this fleet hngered behind after 
the main body had quitted the river, having dressed 
themselves in the spoils of their victims, and put on 



CRUELTIES. 141 

the broad-brimmed hat used by the labourers on the 
iarms. Thus disguised, these miscreants stealthily 
dropped down the river in the small canoes which they 
found on the banks ; and, imitating the Sadong dialect, 
they called to the women to come out of their hiding- 
places, saying that they had come to convey them to a 
place of safety. In many instances the stratagem was 
but too successfiil ; and the helplQ^s women, rushing down 
with their infants in their arms, became the prey of these 
wolves in sheep's clothing. 

There is something of rude romance in the following 
incident. There was in the balla a chief named Dung- 
dong-a ferocious old ruffian as any there. He was a 
Malay by birth, but had given up the customs and 
religion of his people, adopted the Dyak costume, and 
become a notorious head-hunter. While his crew were 
plundering a farm-house, he was captivated by the 
appearance of a young girl who was endeavouring to 
make her escape into the jungle : he pursued her ; but, 
being encumbered by a heavy iron-headed spear, he 
stuck it into the groimd, purposing to pick it up on his 
return. The path to the jungle was through a padi 
field, of which the crop was then ripe and long, fit for 
reaping. The pirate speedily overtook his victim, and 
returned, bearing the poor shrieking girl in his arms, to 
the point where he had left his spear : but it was gone. 
He hurried on with his prize towards the boat ; but fell 
almost inimediately, pierced through the neck by his own 



142 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

spear, hurled from the hand of his intended victim's 
father. 

I have here given an imperfect outline of the deeds 
done by the Serebas and Sakarran pirates during one 
ordinary expedition up one river, the Sadong. I assure 
the reader that imagination could scarcely fill up this 
outUne with characteristics answering to the reality. I 
have not mentioned those most revolting circumstances, 
which, though they may vary in their details, are 
common to all these occasions. What manner of people, 
then, are these Malays and Dyaks, who occupy their 
business in the waters of Serebas and Sakarran ? What 
is their business — if not piracy? I will not now 
anticipate conclusions upon which many more facts shall 
yet be brought to bear ; but it may be remarked at once 
— first, that it is a great mistake to designate these 
proceedings as "inter-tribal feuds.*' The Malays and 
Dyaks of Serebas do not busy themselves with feuds, as 
such : but they will get up a feud (if any one insists on 
calling it so) wherever heads and pillage are to be had. 
But, secondly, a mere change of expression could not 
exonerate us from the duty of repressing such excesses. 
A nation which, to its honour, will not tolerate an African 
slave-trade, with its concomitant horrors, can scarcely 
plead the principle of non-intervention when the scene of 
equal horrors lies in her direct commercial path. 

At length, in the hope of arresting the continual 
further sacrifice of life and property, by which these 



FIRST EXPEDITION. 143 

outrages in the Sadong, and others in various directions, 
were sure to be followed up unless some preventive 
measures were taken, the Rajah sallied forth, on the 25th 
March, 1849, with the native flotilla, which he had, at a 
considerable expense, prepared for service. The force, on 
setting out, consisted of fifty-five prahus, with a total of 
1800 men : this was augmented, in the course of a few 
days, by auxiUaries from various rivers on the coast, 
anxious to make common cause against a common pest, 
until the flotilla amounted to ninety-eight prahus, with 
about 3200 men. Of these, twenty-four prahus were of 
Sarawak, manned by 800 Sarawak Malays. This portion 
was entirely equipped and victualled at the expence of the 
Rajah. It may be observed, that the average number of 
men in the Sarawak prahus is something lower than in 
those of the Serebas and Sakarran pirates : the prahus of 
the latter, though of less tonnage, are of greater size, from 
overhanging so much at stem and stem. The largest 
Sarawak prahu is of about ten tons. 

The expedition visited every river between Sarawak and 
Serebas, but had not the good fortune to fall in with the 
enemy. It was led by four boats of the H.E.I.C. steamer 
Netnesis, under the orders of Mr. Groodwin ; while 
Captain Wallage, with his steamer, guarded the Serebas 
river. A map of this part of the north-west coast of 
Borneo is necessary to any reader for whom these move- 
ments have particular interest. The expedition, entering 
the Ealuka, ascended at once both the right and left 



144 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

branches of the Lipat and Sussang. The Malays of Lipat, 
having been found trading with the pirates, received a 
severe lecture, and were then compelled to furnish guides 
to the interior of the Rembas branch of the Serebas. 
About sixty miles from the sea, up the Lipat, a force of 
2000 men landed, and, during an absence from the boats 
of three days, captured several strong-holds of the pirates, 
destroying large stores of rice and salt. They met with 
but Uttle resistance ; for, in fact, the enemy were absent 
about other mischief. 

The flotilla now returning towards Serebas, a small 
advanced boat encountered forty piratical prahus at the 
entrance of the Rembas. " SmeUing a rat,'' they retreated 
precipitately, leaving behind many articles very acceptable 
to the force ; which now, having effected towards the 
chastisement of the pirates as much as was practicable 
without a stronger accession of European aid, left the river 
Serebas, and dispersed to their respective homes. Ten 
boats, however, from Sadong, being set upon in the night 
while at anchor by 150 Sakarran prahus, who were on 
their way to unite with the Serebas fleet in an attempt to 
surprise the town of Banting, had a severe engagement 
with them. The odds against them were diminished by 
the opportune assistance of thirty-five prahus of the 
Balow Dyaks, who hurried to the scene : by their assist- 
ance the Sakarrans were defeated and driven back upon 
their own river, with loss of four large prahus. But a 
more important result of this action, together with the 



PIRATES CHECKED ONLY. 145 

previous movements, was that the miion of the Serebas 
and Sakarran fleets was thus prevented, with all the 
murder and devastation which their combined forces 
would have committed. The vessels used by the pirates 
on this expedition were, strictly speaking, not Malay 
prahus, but Dyak bangkongs. According to the work 
they have in hand, they go forth in the heavier or the 
lighter craft. 

Although frustrated in their immediate designs by the 
movements Of the Saraw^ force, it wias not likely that 
the pirate fleets of Serebas and Sakarran, mustering 
nearly 200 prahus in fiill equipment, would long suffer 
their preparations to be wasted by inactivity. A firiend, 
who learned Latin longer than myself, recommends me to 
announce to the classical world the discovery of the real 
Hydra of old times, in a pirate fleet : and, after going 
deep into Lempriere, I think there have been worse hits. 
I will conclude the chapter learnedly in working it out ; 
having a start given me thus :— 

" Non Hydra, secto corpore, firmior 
Vinci dolentem creyit in Hercnlem." 

So grew the Hydra's aever'd stmnpe. 
And gaye great Hercules the dnmps. 

No single unfollowed-up blow seems to hurt a set of 
pirates, any more than a many-headed mythological 
monster ; and even Hercules despaired of success, single- 
handed. He was &in to appoint an aide-de-camp to 
bum the stumpSj as he cut off* the heads. How then is 



146 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

my friend the Rajah to do it alone ? He must have 
help — utterly to destroy the beast. If Sarawak lops oflF 
the heads, England must bum the stumps— or vic^ versa. 
They must work together. But I have got up my 
classical parallel a Uttle further. While the hero of old 
was performing his task, by the help of his friend with 
the hot ^ker, jeaiotisy sent a crab to bite his toes ! Even 
so is there more than one treacherous, subaqueotis tor- 
mentor at work, nibbling, but not hurting my friend the 
Rajah. Biting his foot — ^interfering with his free move- 
ments in some slight degree. But it matters little, while 
the head remained unimpaired to devise, and the arm to 
act. Dropping my lesson in Lempriere, I will confidently 
predict that the Rajah of Sar&wak wUl succeed in hi^ 
Herculean task ; for he keeps his promises, and he has 
said with Caesar — 

** I most rid the sea of pintes." 

The next shall be a matter-of-fact chapter, narrating the 
strongest eflFort yet made to destroy the Hydra of Serebas. 



ALBATROSS SENT TO BORNEO. 147 



CHAPTER IX 



ALBATB08S BAILS FROM HOVQ KONQ FOR BOBHBO— -SIR JAICBS BROOU PROOBIDS ON A 
mmOH TO 80L00— HI8 RETURN TO SARAWAK — ^ALRATROSS ARRIVB8 THERE — 
PREPARATIONS VOR AOAIN ENOOVNTERIVO THE SERERA8 PIRATES — BTTROPSAN 
fOROE— VATIYE POROB — ^EXPEDITION LEATE8 SARAWAK AND ARRIVES OFF THE 
BATANQ LVPAR — ROTAUST SENT TO GUARD THE UNOA — INTBLLIOENOB REOEIYBD 
THAT THE PIRATE BALLA RAD PASSED OUT TO SEA — PBOOEEDUfaS OF THB 

PIRATES— EXPEDITION TAKES UP A POSITION OFF THE SEREBAS RETURN OF THE 

PHLATB fleet its DRSTRUOTION further PARTIOULARS — PROOEBDINOS OF 

ANOTHER PORTION OF THE PIRATE BALLA — THBT TI8IT THE MAROTABUB — 
OAPTURE AND DEATH OF HUSSEIN. 

On my arrival in China, the Admiral, Sfa* Francis 
Collier, determined that it woul^^ be desirable to have some 
ship-of-war despatched to the coast of Borneo, to supply 
the Maander^s place. Accordingly H.M.S. Albatross^ 
Commander Farquhar, sailed for that station on the 1 8th 
April She arrived there on the 18th May. 

In the meantime the Kajah had not been idle. After 
his return from the last mentioned excursion against the 
pirates, which had the effect of cheeking considerably 
their devastations, he took advantage of the quiet interval 
to proceed to Soloo, where he succeeded in forming a 
treaty with the Sultan, of which the object was to keep 

l2 



148 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

open for the benefit of the mercantile world that 
improTable field for commercial enterprise. I have 
noticed in a preceding chapter how this hope has been 
frustrated by the jealousy of Spain. 

On his way back irom Soloo, Sir James Brooke touched 
at Labuan and arranged sundry matters there, reaching 
Sarawak again about the end of May, 1849. From this 
time he was actively engaged in preparations for encoun- 
tering the Serebas and Sakarran pirates ; and at length, 
on the 24th July, he had the satisfaction of leaving 
Sarawak with such a combined European and Native 
force, as was certain to give a good accoimt of any fleet 
of the marauders that might be met with. 

The Mceander had been expected to arrive in time to 
share the work cut out ; but as she did not appear, it was 
determined to proceed with the available strength col- 
lected ; and there could have been no misgiving about 
success in the breast of any one who witnessed the 
enthusiasm of the parting moment, and heard the cheers 
with which the picturesque banks of the Sarawak river 
echoed as the flotilla got under weigh. 

The following comprised the European portion of the 
force : — • 

H.M.S. Royalist, commanded by Lieutenant Everest. 

H.E.I.C. steamer. Nemesis, Commander J. Wallage. 

Three boats of the H.M.S. AlbatrosSy viz. : — Gig, 
Commander Parquhar, in command. Pinnace, Lieutenant 
Brickwell. Cutter, Lieutenant Wilmshurst. 



JORCE EMPLOYED. 149 

The boats of the Nemesis^ viz, : — Two paddle-box, 
and a cutter, commanded respectively by Mr. Williams, 
Mr. Goodwin, and Mr. Alex, Baker. 

The Boy dish cutter. Lieutenant Everest. 

The Mceanders small steam-tender, Ranee, Mr, E. W. 
Baker, engineer in charge. 

The Rajah of Sarawak embarked in his new prahu 
called the Singh Rajah (Lion King), and was accompanied 
by the following force of prahus, manned by Sarawak 
Malays. It will be seen that for names to their prahus 
the Malays, having no classical dictionary, draw upon the 
jungle and other dictionaries of Nature with success. 

ILUiAT HAMlflL IHQIJ8H SAMBS. NVMBBB OF MBB. 

Singh Bi^ah Lion King 70 

Biyah Wali Eagle 60 

Hariman Tiger 45 

UUr Snake 80 

Kori A Species of Parrot 85 

Pinyn Turtle 40 

Peniangat A amall Species of Bee . . . . 85 

Kynng Deer 85 

Boaya Alligator 50 

Ani Ani White Ant 20 

Katak Frog 25 

Agam Chicken . 35 

Merapati Pigeon SO 

Topei Squirrel 25 

Alang-Uut Sea Kite 40 

Biy'ang-brani Brare Bachelor 25 

LijangLayang . . . Swallow 20 

nKpit Sparrow 20 

These were afterwards joined by the Orang Eaya of 
Lundu, with about 300 men in prahus of different sizes. 



160 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

Later still oame the Linga Dyaks, about 800 strong. 
Smaller detachments likewise joined firom Samarahan, 
Sadong, and other tributary rivers, whose inhabitants 
had all alike suffered from the depredations of the Serebas 
pirates. The total native force amounted to about seventy 
fighting prahuS) maimed by about 2500 men. 

Early on the morning of the 24th July, the Nemesis 
started with H.M. brig Royalist, and the Ranee steam- 
tender in tow, the Albatross being left at Sarawak. The 
European boats followed, and this division of the force 
anchored on the night of the 24th off the Marotabus 
entrance to the Sarawak river. The native boats dropped 
down with the ebb-tide, and presented an animated 
appearance, — streamers flying from their three slender 
masts, and gongs beating. The Rajah's prahu brought 
up the rear. 

On the morning of the 25th, the Nemesis took in tow 
the European force, and, standing out sufficiently to avoid 
the shoals, brought them to the entrance of the Batang 
Lupar at 5 p.m. The boats were anchored in line across 
its mouth ; and the Nemesis, proceeding up the river with 
the Rot/alist, left her off the Linga branch j after which, 
she returned to the boats, and proceeded with them, early 
on the morning of the 26th, towards the Serebas, off which 
she anchored at 3 p.m., to await the arrival of the native 
force. 

The next page is from the journal of a gentleman who 
was in the Rajah's prahu. 



FLIGHT OF BATS. 151 

" 26th July. — The whole mosquito squadron are under 
sail along shore, and afford an interesting sight, their 
white sails standing out distinct from the dark, jungled 
shore. Anchored at night just withm the mouth of the 
Sibuyow. The natives were soon variously at work ; some 
with their parangs waded up the muddy bank to the 
nepah, the leaves of which they cut for roofing, and the 
pith for food. Others threw their jallah, or round fine 
nets, over the shallow places, to secure a fish meal ; 
and some others more successfully fished with a seine. 
All was peaceful and safe, although we were disposed 
along the banks of a river where some few years ago 
piratical expeditions were of daily occurrence, and this 
destructive state of things continued until the dwellings 
all disappeared, and the inhabitants fled. 

^* Towards sunset a remarkable circumstance occurred : 
— vultures apparently, but in reality huge bats (pteropus), 
began to fly over where we sat at dinner, al fresco^ and 
continued to do so for nearly half an hour, some soaring 
very high, and others at less distances. Shortly after 
the last bird had passed, or even bef3re, they began to 
return exactly llie opposite way, and so disappeared. 
Not having a Calcha$ in our fleet, we could only 
determine, as many wise people do, after the events 
of the next few days, whether the omen was a 
lucky one. 

" In the evening we amused ourselves with drawing 
up a code of signals, in a council of four. When written^ 



152 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

it was sent, accompanied by a formal drcular, to all the 
prahus having European commanders. 

" 28 th. — Nemesis is in sight ; and the European force 
anchored some way out amongst the flats of the Serebas. 
Captain Farquhar came on board this evening.; and a 
boom, or council of war, attended by the chiefe, was 
held on the deck of the Singh RajdhJ'^ 

On the evening of the 28th, intelligence was received 
that a large pirate fleet, or balla, had left the Serebas 
early on the morning of the 26th, and had stood to 
the northward. They had thus just slipped out a few 
hours before the arrival of our force. The informant 
had only escaped them by breaking up his boat, and 
hiding himself in the jungle, where he saw them all go 
past. It was believed that the capture and plunder of 
the town of Siriki, on the Rejang, was their immediate 
object. To intercept their return was the determination 
immediately formed by Captain Farquhar and the Kajah ; 
and measures were promptly taken for this end. Sir 
James Brooke, with part of the Sarawak force — ^about 
twelve large well-armed prahus, and two man-of-war 
cutters, made for the Ealuka, a river more to the north- 
east^ but having an inland ; communication with the 
Serebas. They took up a position across its mouthy 
concealed from the outside by a bend at its entrance. 

The intervening space between the river Serebas and 
the Kaluka is a sandy flat, called Tanjong Marrow, 
projecting seaward between two and three miles. Outside 



LOOKOUT. 163 

the southernmost point of this flat, called Buting Marrow, 
the Nemesis anchored in the middle of the stream ; the 
other men-of-war's boats, and forty native prahus, mider 
the Datu Tumangong of Sarawak, extending fix)m her, 
in an oblique line, towards the entrance of the Serebas, 
the Eiuropean boats being nearest to the Nemesis. 
Twelve or fifteen prahus took their position on the 
opposite side of the river, under the Orang Eaya of 
Lundu : and a few were detached here and there. 

The habit of these pirates, when attacked, is to provide 
for an escape to the jungle, rather than stand out to sea. 
The arrangements now made were as complete as was 
practicable for cutting off their homeward flight ; at least 
an immense sacrifice of their force was thus insured. 

Fast-pulling scout-boats were kept on the look-out in 
the offing, with orders to convey by signal the earliest 
intimation of the pirates' approach. 

The whole force remained in suspense during the three 
following days. I will use this interim to state what the 
pirates were about: for be it known to all who deny 
on their, behalf their character and deeds, that they 
lliemselves are very candid about the matter ; and every 
particular might be learned fi*om some of the chiefe, 
who afterwards visited Sarawak to make their submission 
to the Bajah. 

Their fleet consisted of 150 prahus ; in every prahu 
were muskets, and some carried brass guns, besides the 
usual armament of spears and swords, &c. Very few of 



154 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

the prahus carried less than thirty men, while some had 
as many as seventy. The great ohiefa, and ahnost all 
the principal Malays of Serebas and Sakarran, were in 
the fleet, which was collected from Rembas, Paku, Padi, 
Liar, &c. — ^all places in the Serebas Saver. Nearly all 
the adult people were there, either from choice or 
compulsion. 

The piratical fleet, on leaving the Serebas, proceeded to 
the entrance of the Niabur River, and from thence to the 
Palo. They made an attempt on the town of Siriki, but 
found the inhabitants too well prepared for them. On 
the town of Palo they levied a large contribution of rice 
and salt, and thence proceeded to the bay of Lassa^ 
capturing on the way a trading prahu laden with sago, 
which they plundered. From the Bay of Lassa they 
proceeded to attack iJie town of Mato, near which place 
they captured two other trading vessels, one laden with 
sago, bound for Sincapore ; the other lately arrived from 
SincaporCy with a cargo of cotton goods. These vessels 
were tmfortunately lying outside the defences : they 
were accordingly first plundered and then burnt. 

N^. Sincapore has, nevertheless, produced an address 
to Mr. Hume (which will be hereafter examined), 
expressive of doubts whether the Serebas are pirates ! 

Repulsed from Mato, and hearing that there was a force 
on the look-*out fpr them, the pirates turned homewards ; 
and at lengthy towards evening on the 31st July, the 
Ular scout-boat brought in the inteUigence, so welcome 



PERILS OF SPORTSMEN. 155 

after three days of watching, that the piratical balla was 
rapidly approaching the Kaluka in two divisions. 

Several parties from the boats were amusing themselves 
on shore ; but an intimation of what was coming soon 
brought back those within hail Three, however, who 
had landed from the Rajah's prahu, to shoot wild hog, 
deer, or curlew, returned not with the rest; nor were 
they missed in the first moments of excitement on the 
appearance of the enemy. Suddenly, however, their 
absence was perceived, and the imminent peril to wMch 
they were now exposed flashed across their comrades' 
minds. Should the pirates, taking early alarm, seek an 
escape in that direction, they were sure to £sJl in with 
them. It seemed to their friends almost impossible for a 
boat to reach them before some of the enemy would have 
effected a landing ; and ihen^ if they had been found at 
all, they would inevitably have been headless. The 
Bajah was suffering under an attack of fever and ague ; 
and this suspense, — ^painfrd enough to all on board, — was 
doubly so to him, as one of the missing party was his 
nephew. Captain Brooke. A boat, however, which was 
immediately despatched, happily returned with the strag^ 
glers, to the great relief of all on board. They had been 
led on too &r for prudence by the fresh tracks of gama 

At the first announcement of the enemy's approach a 
rocket was sent up to warn the Nemesis. The pirate 
fleet was now advancing rapidly, vnth a strong flood-tide, 
for the entrance of the river Ealuka, across which the 



156 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

Rajah's division was stationed. He instantly formed into 
a more compact line ; and the enemy^ after approaching 
near enough to see that passage guarded, steered for the 
Serebas entrance, passing at long gun-shot distance. 

The two cutters stationed in the Ealuka, under com- 
mand of Lieutenants Everest and Wilmshurst, then 
advanced in chase, leaving the Rajah still to occupy his 
position, which was too important to be unguarded* He 
was consequently in ignorance of what took place from this 
time, and passed the night in exciting, though confident 
suspense. The signal, which he knew so well to be the 
summons to a council,— namely, the sound of three 
successive strokes on the gong,— fell upon his ear ; then 
ensued an impressive stillness for about twenty minutes. 
Suddenly the splash of paddles- was heard, and, with a 
fearfiil war-yeU, the pirates were again in excited and 
rapid motion. 

The decision taken by them was to force the Serebas 
entrance. Here Captain Farquhar was in readiness; 
BXii to his movements we now return. 

After the boom, or council, held on board the Singh 
Majak, Captain Farquhar, leaving the Hofiah to guard the 
Ealuka, proceeded on board the steamer, to make his 
further arrangements. Scout-boats conveyed to him also 
the intelligence of the approach of the balla in two 
divisions. In less than half an hour the signal-rocket 
announced that they were passing the Ealuka, and their 
movements could be distinctly traced from on board the 



PIRATE FLEET IN SIGHT. 167 

Nemesis by the splashing sound of their paddles, while 
their fleet was yet enveloped in darkness. 

As the pirate fleet sighted the steamer, they first 
became aware of the extreme peril of their situation ; and 
at this moment both Captain Farquhar and the Eajah, 
although eight miles apart, heard with equal distinctness 
the council summoned by beat of gong ; and then, after the 
pause, — ^rendered more solemn by the complete darkness 
which had come on, — ^the same yell of defiance reached 
both divisions. 

A rambling exchange of shots now commenced ; this, 
accompanied by the discharge of musketry, increased as 
the opposite parties closed. The pirates were hemmed 
in on every side. 

The entrance of the Serebas, by which they hoped to 
escape, was found to be guarded by the Datu Tumangong 
and his son Abong Fata, with a detachment of forty 
prahus. The pirates now came into immediate contact 
with the men-of-war boats ; a continued discharge of 
musketry was kept up, but they were too much panic- 
stricken, and bent on escape, to use their arms with any 
effect^ and were soon thrown into the greatest confusion. 
Eighty of their bangkongs were speedily run on shore, 
while the rest, in detached parties, sought to escape by 
sea. Seventeen of the larger prahus, avoiding the shoal, 
attempted to pass the steamer, and were there destroyed. 

A series of encounters followed, extending from the 
mouth of the Ealuka to the further side of the Serebas. 



158 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

On this occasion, the loss of Ufe was almost exdosively 
on one side. The darkness was greatly in &yotir of the 
English force. The pirates could not see the danger into 
which they were running. 

The excitement caused by the reports of firearms — 
by the bright flashes fix)m the guns — ^by the blue lights 
burnt by the man-of-war boats to distinguish fiiend from 

foe — ^the glare of the rockets, while passing through the 
air — and the yells of defiance from both sides, — ^was 
increased by the obscurity, and by the extended nature of 
the operations ; for the combatants were spread, at one 
time, over a space of not less than ten miles. 

The result of the night's action became visible with the 
morning light. On the eastern point, or Buting Marrow, 
lay upwards of sixty deserted prahus ; and on the beach, 
for a long distance, were strewed the debris of the large 
pirate fleet. Boats which had been swamped were carried 
backwards and forwards by the tide. About 2500 of the 
enemy sought refuge in the jungle. 

Upwards of eighty prahus and bangkongs were cap- 
tured ; many from sixty to eighty feet long, with nine or 
ten beam. 

It is difficult to calculate the exact number of the killed 
Four hundred must hd^ve fistUen during the night's action ; 
and many, dying afterwards from wounds and exposure, 
would swell the loss of the pirates. Five hundred is the 
number certified by the Judge of the Court of Admiralty ; 
and the result of the best information which has been 



PIRATE CRUELTIES. 159 

procurable would fix the total loss of pirates at eight 
hundred : but perfect accuracy on this point is impossible. 

The next morning was occupied in destroying the 
captured prahus. 

Orders were given to shew mercy to any of the pirates 
who wished to give themselves up ; but mercy is not 
understood by these people, either in name or in reality : 
and, indeed, the few wounds which were received by any 
of our men were the penalty of their humane endeavours 
to save the pirates from drowning. These latter, when 
they took to the water, invariably did so in full fighting 
costume, — sword in one hand and shield in the other, — 
rendering any effort of humanity most perilous. They 
are indeed a desperate race, and utterly reckless either of 
their enemies' life or their own : nor do they spare age or 
B&JL Even in their confused and precipitate retreat, on 
this night, they found time to perpetrate great atrocities. 
The mangled and headless trunk of a woman was found 
among their deserted plunder. She was ascertained to be 
a captive from Palo. When unable to carry her off, these 
** inoffensive traders " had severed her head, and vented 
their disappointment by the mutilation of the body. 

I have l)efore stated that the ohiefis of these tribes do 
not attempt to deny their (Bvil deeds. On a subsequent 
vudt^ made by some of them to the Bajah at Sarawak, one 
of note, whose name wa£ Lingire, told him that his bang*' 
k:ong was one of the largest in the balla^ with a crew of 
seventy men, and that he was advancing with the rest 



160 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

of them ;— the panic, however, when they found the 
entrances to the Serebas and Ealuka guarded, was com- 
plete : everybody lost his senses, and each boat thought 
only of reaching home : in the confusion he took a line 
of his own, and, by various manoeuvres, succeeded in 
threading his way through the belligerents unscathed. 
Turning the head of his boat seaward, he was at one 
moment very near running into the centre of the man- 
of-war boats, where Captain Farquhar was in his gig. He 
then turned towards the steamer, and, cheering his men, 
exhorted them to pull for their Uves and on no account 
to jump overboard. He succeeded in passing in shore 
of the Nemesis ; and then taking a sweep out to sea, 
to avoid the Sarawak force under the Tumangong, afi 
well as a detachment of Lundu Dyaks, imder Mr. Steel 
of Sarawak, he effected an entrance in rear of every- 
thing to the Serebas ; and, his men pulling as they 
had never pulled before, he succeeded in taking the 
first account of the disasters sustained by his companions 
to their anxious families. 

It was determined, in a consultation held on the 
morning of the 1st August, to follow up immediately the 
heavy blow thus inflicted on piracy, and to show those 
who had escaped that punishment could reach them 
even in their distant homes. But before attending 
Captain Farquhar and the Rajah up the rivers, I ought 
to mention the simultaneous piratical performances of 
another portion of this very balla. They act so as not 



SUNDRY ATROCITIES. 161 

to have all their eggs in one nest. Descending the Serebas 
as part of the great balla^ six prahus detached themselves 
when clear of the river, and stood to the westward. 
They first paid their unwelcome visit oflF Sambas, where 
they robbed and murdered a few unfortunate Chinese 
fishermen. OflF the island of Serhassan they captured 
a trading prahu. Returning thence, they suddenly 
appeared before the village at the Marotabus entrance of 
the Sarawak — only twenty miles from the Rajah's capital 
They gave as a reason for their visit, that " some time 
had elapsed since they had taken any Sarawak heads ; 
they were now, therefore, come to help themselves.*' 
Accordingly, they landed a force and attacked the village. 
It was obstinately defended, and the pirates were ulti- 
mately repulsed, but with loss of life on both sides. 
They then took possession of a small trading prahu 
bound to Ealuka, putting the owner and five men to 
death. A poor Kling, who was supercargo, tried hard to 
escape on shore by swimming ; but, before he reached the 
landing-place, he received a spear-wound, as well as a 
fearfiil sword-cut ; he still managed to crawl under the 
house, and, climbing a post, got in through the lantie 
floor : there tottering to a comer, he roUed himself up 
in a mat, and died. The only man who escaped was a 
Malay, named Lahat, who jumped overboard after seeing 
his father and two imcles massacred. 

After this last exploit the same piratical detachment 
continued their course eastward ; chased a few fishermen, 



162 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

who escaped ; and then standing out to Sea, fell in with 
a worthy Malay, named Hussein, nephew to the Datu 
Tumangong of Sarawak* I had, dimng my former visits 
to Sarawak, many a day's sport with him in the jungle. 
He was proceeding in a sanpan with six men, to trade 
at Sadong, and had with him 300 dollars in cash. On 
being chased by the swift pirate bangkongs, he defended 
himself bravely, but was run down ; and this poor fellow 
was put to death, with all his crew. The whole aflGsur 
was plainly seen from the shore. 

Three months after this transaction, when the pirates 
appeared at Sarawak to make their submission, some of 
them gave the following account of it. They said that, 
after leaving the Marotabus, they gave chase to the 
sanpan in which Hussein was. As they approached, he 
commenced firing with his rifle, and shot three of their 
men : as they came on him, he rose up and hurled his 
spear at one of the chiefs, inflicting a severe wound 
on the cheek. Before he could offer any ftui;her 
resistance, his boat was run down, and all were killed. 
In confirmation of their accoimt, they actually produced 
poor Hussein's head, his spear, and gold-handled parang. 
At the request of his relations, they gave up the head. 



THE RIVERS ASCENDED. 163 



CHAPTER X. 



EXPBDinOH A80EHD8 THB 8BBBBA8 RITBB AND THB PAKU BRAKOH — ^AOOIDBNT TO THB 
BABBB— TWO SONS AND NBPHBW OF THB OBANO KATA OF LUNDU KILLBD— HIS 
GBIBF AND DBPABTTTBB WITH HIS TBIBE — PAKU DBSTBOTBD— SBBEBA8 JACK — 

BXPBDinON PBOOBBDS UP THB RBJANG OUSTOMS OF THB MILLANOWS — 8IBIKI 

KANOWIT BIYBIl— KX)nNTBT OF THB 6AKAKRAW PIRATBS — ITS FEBTIUTT — ^NATIVB 

FOBOB FBOM MATO^TOUTHFUL DTAK PBISONBB — HIS LIBBBATION ^BZPBDITION 

DB80BNDS THB BBJANQ NATIYB AUZILIABIB8 DISMISSED — BAJAH OITBS AN 

AUDIBNOB TO 80MB PIBATE CHIEFS ^NEMESIS PBOOBBDS UP THB BBJANG TO THB 

OOUNTBT OF THB EANOWITS — MAN OYBBBOABD SATED BT A MALAY PROOFS OF 

PIBACT FINES INFLICTED AND ENFOBOED HOW AFTERWARDS DISPOSED OF 

BXPBDITION BBTURN8 TO SARAWAK. 

To resume our narrative of Captaiii Farquhar's 
operations. 

After a couple of days spent in securing prisoners and 
destroying such of the captured boats as were not 
required for use, the expedition advanced on the 2nd 
August up the Serebas river, and in the afternoon the 
force anchored near the entrance of the Paku branch. 

The next day, the Nemesis and the heaviest prahus 
being left behind, the Ughter boats and captured bang- 
kongs were in requisition to ascend the river. 

m2 



164 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

The surviving pirates had thus the satis^EU^tion of 
providing their chastisers with the means of visiting them 
at their own homes, and of easing them of some of their 
ill-gotten wealth, carrying it away in the same bangkongs 
which had been equipped for their own lawless purposes. 

In this ascent of the river, the small steamer Hanee^ 
attended by the man-of-war boats, led the way. Then 
followed a dense mass of several hundred native boats, 
eager for plunder — ^they were with the greatest difficulty 
kept back ; a rushing tide swept them all up together. 
In the midst of the confusion, the branch of a tree 
carried away the Ranee's funnel. Grounding forward at 
the same time, she was swept by the current across 
the narrow river. The steam waa let oflF with the usual 
noise ; whereupon our native followers, not knowing what 
the horrid creature was going to do, tried in vain to get 
out of the way, — some jumping into the water, — some 
into other boats, which they accordingly swamped, — some 
religiously bowing their heads, and resigning themselves 
to ADah, — ^all under a sense of imminent peril ; indeed, 
the concision can be better conceived than described. 

As the invading force advanced up the river, they 
found the usual means resorted to, to check their progress 
to Paku : trees were felled, and thrown across the stream ; 
and it was frequently necessary to land parties on eillier 
bank, who could ascend and cut a boat passage through 
these barriers. 

In one place, nine huge trees had been felled, and one 



CASUALTIES. 166 

BO immense as effectually to arrest further progress. 
For the purpose of clearing away these obstacles, a party of 
Dyaks landed, headed by three sons of the chief of Lundu ; 
out of a foolish contempt for their enemies, they took 
neither fighting jacket nor shield. Advancing carelessly 
in disregard of repeated cautions, they penetrated too 
far into the jungle, and while drawing some ranjows from 
the ground, they were pounced upon by a number of the 
enemy, who were lying in ambush ; before succour could 
be obtained, two were cut down, and the head of one of 
them was taken. 

I should explain that a ranjow is a spike made from 
the hard part of the bamboo, and cunningly stuck into 
the ground to wound the feet. It is a most formidable 
contrivance in a country where no shoes are worn ; but 
on a former occasion I saw a ranjow pass clean through 
the shoe of Sir James Brooke, who the moment before 
had cautioned me to beware of the same danger. 

The imfortunate sufferers on the present occasion were 
both sons of tiie Orang Eaya of Lundu. This fine old 
chief had always been a &vourite with the Europeans, 
from his unbounded gratitude and attachment to 
the Bajah ; and much sympathy was shown at his 
distress. Ahiiough aged, he was still handsome. He 
had many an interesting tale to tell of his youthful 
adventures. When Mr. Brooke first visited Sarawak in 
1840, this chief was suffering by the same wretched 
system of government, which had oppressed many others 



166 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

within reach of Muda Hassim's sway — and most of his 
tribe had been dispersed. As soon as Mr. Brooke became 
powerfiil, he extended his protection to Lundu ; by an 
advance of money, the village was rebuilt — ^many of the 
missing tribe collected — ^and the old man's happiness and 
content increased exceedingly. He was justly proud of 
his sons, and particularly partial to Tujong, the youngest ; 
he had on the present occasion brought three of them 
with him, and a son-in-law, to join in chastising 
those enemies who had been the cause of his many 
troubles. Alas ! the Serebas had now possessed 
themselves of the head of one brave boy, and had slain 
another. 

It was ascertained afterwards that the three brothers 
were advancing through the jungle in the usual single 
file, the second leading, when a tiger-like spring from the 
bush was made on poor Bunsie, and he was cut down. 
His slayer was the redoubtable Dyak Chie^ Lingire 
himself, near to whose residence the flotilla were 
advancing. A fierce and desperate struggle ensued 
between the youngest son and a Malay, named Abong 
Apong : he was son-in-law to the Laksimana of Paku, the 
chief who led the late recent severe foray at Sadong. 
Each combatant was armed with shield and sword : but, 
assistance coming to his enemy, Tujong received the fetal 
blow ; before, however, the fellen man could be decap- 
itated, a musket-shot fired by Tujong's party passed 
through the shield, and entered the body of the man 



DYAK COMBATS. 167 

who had come to Abong Apong's assistance, making him 
likewise bite the dust. 

Kalong, the eldest of the three, who was in rear of his 
brothers, saw the danger just in time to fall back, and 
bring up the assistance which saved his youngest brother's 
head, but not his life. 

Ealong had also had his share of fighting. On the 
night of the late action, the moon was shining brightly, 
and he had chased one of the Serebas bangkongs aground. 
A young pirate chief jumped out, and invited any one of 
his pursuers to single combat. The challenge was imme- 
diately accepted by Ealong : wading on shore, he was 
soon engaged in mortal strife with his enemy, whom he 
shortly slew. The yoimger brother, Tujong, was to be 
seen standing in the water, ready to take up the combat, 
should Kalong have been worsted. 

When the Orang Eaya reached the Nemesis^ after the 
sad loss of his two sons, he found that one of his nephews 
had just been killed by the accidental discharge of a 
musket. Here the poor old man, completely overcome, 
burst into a flood of tears ; and holding up the same 
number of fingers, intimated that the loss of three in one 
day was more th^n he could bear. Having obtained 
permission fi-om the Rajah, he departed for Lundu with 
the remainder of his gallant Uttle band, to bury his 
children near their native village with all the accustomed 
ceremonies. 

On the second evening after entering the Serebas, the 



168 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

expedition anchored off the site of old Paku, which had 
been destroyed on a former occasion by the Dido's boats. 
Kew Paku was now taken, after a little skirmishing, and 
destroyed by fire. 

Stragglers who had escaped from the piratical balla at 
Buting Marrow were occasionally fallen in with. Some- 
times a raft was met with ; or a boat made from the 
bark of a tree, freshly sewn together with strips from the 
rattan, and stiffened with pieces of bamboo. Some 
wounded man had, in all probability been conveyed across 
the water by these hurried means of transit. 

A stout fellow was taken one dark night, floating up 
with the tide, in a canoe of this description, by some of 
the Malays who had been left with the steamer : he made 
a desperate resistance, and severely wounded one of his 
captors. He was conveyed to the Nemesis ; and, as he 
refused to give any name, he was called by the seamen 
Serebas Jack On the return of the Sajah, who had 
been absent some days, Serebas Jack fully expected that 
sentence of death would be passed upon him ; and his 
spirits rose wonderfully when he found that his life was 
to be spared. He became a great favourite with the 
Europeans. Before the steamer left jfi^e river, he begged 
hard to be allowed to go home, said that he was a very 
poor man, and had left some little children who would 
starve, as there was no one to look after them. This 
story rather moved the Bajah ; but the great difficulty 
was to protect him from the numerous parties of Dyaks 



J 



SEREBAS JACK. 169 

attached to the expedition, who, though they went out 
under pretence of foraging, would, if they caught him 
alone, inevitably take his head. The Rajah, however, 
took such an interest in Serebas Jack, that he directed a 
guard of his Malays to escort him past all danger. 

Some weeks afterwards, — ^when the Serebas chiefe 
went to Sarawak, to make their submission to the Rajah, 
— he descried in the crowd among the followers of the 
Chief Lingire the physiognomy of Serebas Jack, who 
evidently, although ill at ease, had something to com- 
municate. After the audience was over, and the chiefe 
with their followers had departed, Serebas Jack foimd his 
way to the Rajah, and with dejected countenance opened 
the conversation by asking forgiveness for the part he 
had acted. " He had deceived the Rajah ; he was not 
the poor man he had stated himself to be ; he was a 
chie( powerful and rich ; his name was Eabo, and he was 
a brother-in-law of Lingire." 

After promising to abstain from such acts for the 
future, he admitted that he had been fond of piratical 
pursuits : that he had always accompanied the other 
chiefe when they went in grand ballas, filling up the 
intervals by a little private business on his own account. 

On the 7th August, the expedition returned from the 
neighbourhood of Paku, and made their rendezvous around 
the Nemesis, in the Serebas. 

When the news of the defeat extended to the piratical 
villages up the Rembas, several captive women, nine of 



170 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

them of high rank, took advantage of the confusion that 
occurred to eflFect their escape. They had been captured 
at Sadong, and made slaves : they succeeded in seizing a 
small canoe ; and, hiding themselves by day, and 
cautiously paddling down in the dark, after enduring 
many privations they reached Linga in an exhausted 
state : here they were among firiends, and within easy 
distance of their homes. 

The object of the expedition was now to be followed up 
in another direction ; and, on the 9th August, the steamer 
and boats reached Rejang. 

This town is inhabited by a tribe of Millanows, who 
differ from both Malays and Dyaks more in habits and 
customs than in appearance. It is raised some forty feet 
from the ground on huge piles, and has been frequently 
described. Nothing but insecurity and habitual plunder 
could have originated the erection of such an uncomfort- 
able kind of dwelling. The people here were found well 
prepared for a siege. Independently of lelas (small brass 
guns), they had piles of large stones, and hot oil with 
which to anoint the heads of unwelcome visitors : the 
surrcmding grounds were studded mth ranjows and 
cunningly-contrived pitfalls. It is from this place that an 
attempt has more than once been made to carry on 
a trade in sago with Sincapore, which, but for the harass- 
ing interference of the pirates, would have become very 
important. Some of their trading prahus measured sixty 
feet in length, by seventeen beam. 



THE SOFTER SEX. 171 

Although the Millanows do not preserve the heads of 
thdr enemies, a young warrior will occasionally bear home 
such a trophy with the same sort of pleasure with which 
a young fox-hunter takes home his first brush. On this 
occasion, a juvenile aspirant to love and glory, who had 
accompanied the expedition and wished to display a prize 
he had won, was met on landing by the women, who had 
already spied the relic from then* elevated platform on the 
bank. They descended to meet it with a stick in each 
hand, and began to play on the unfortunate head, as if it 
had been a tomtom. After this performance, each in turn 
rushed into the river, as if to cleanse herself from the 
pollution. Although these gentle creatures did not strike 
with any violence, it was as much as the young hero could 
do to prevent his trophy from being pommelled into a 

On the 11th August, after having wooded the steamer, 
the expedition moved higher up the Bejang, and anchored 
off the branch leading to Siriki. Alligators aboimd in 
these streams ; and the rhinoceros is said to be numerous 
in the interior. 

After ascending this magnificent river, which for eighty 
miles up would admit a line-of-battle ship, they came to, on 
the 14th, off the mouth of the Kanowit, — a stream which 
had never yet been ascended by Europeans. 

In the course of the progress of the expedition up the 
Rejang, the Rajah was waited on by the Panguerans and 
most of the influential men from Oya, Muka, Siriki, and 



172 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

Igan, who gave many well-soundiDg assurances as to their 
good mtentions, in return for which they received much 
wholesome counsel. 

Leaving the steamer, the lighter part of the flotilla 
ascended the Kanowit branch, in the direction of the 
Serebas country. It is thickly populated by the Sakarran 
and other tribes, who had long assisted in manning the 
piratical ballas. 

Many of the Dyak aUies had returned home ; but the 
native force accompanying the Rajah still consisted of 
about 2000 men. 

The object being to pimish the guilty, particular orders 
were given to spare all unresisting men ; and on no 
account were women or children to be molested. These 
orders were scrupulously attended to ; and, although 
there were very few of the attacking party who had not 
suffered, or who had not on some occasion lost a relation 
by the hands of the people whose country they were 
now invading, still no act of cruelty occurred. 

The progress up the Kanowit was slow, by reason of 
the rapidity of the stream, and the freshets after the 
rain ; the inhabitants had thus ample time to decamp, 
but their villages and farm-houses were destroyed. In 
every house evidence was foimd of their fondness for 
human heads ; they met our senses in every stage of 
what was considered preservation, — from the old and 
dried-up, and therefore less offensive, to the fresh-baked, 
and therefore very unpleasant specimen. 



THE KANOWIT. 173 

The whole country on either bank of this river is 
rich and fertile in the extreme. Fields of cotton, sugar- 
cane, and padi, with cocoa-nut and fruit-trees in variety, 
grow in the greatest luxuriance. Pigs in hundreds, 
ducks and poultry without number, proved that these 
people were robbers from choice, and not from necessity. 

In every house cotton-looms for making cloth were 
found. The coimtry at each mile improved in beauty: 
the scenery was varied by hill and dale; while a 
succession of open spaces, cleared for cultivation, gave 
evidence of a dense population well able to enrich 
themselves by honest industry. Our party were informed 
that, if they continued to advance for the next four days, 
they would still find the country continue to improve. 

The Sakarrans prided themselves on being able to 
send out eighty bangkongs, manned by 2800 warriors. 
Confident in their own strength, they had never taken 
any extraordinary measures for their defence : they 
little expected a visit from an organised body of 2000 
Malays and Dyaks, led by an European Rajah of 
Sarawak, and a handful of Englishmen. The unwelcome 
visitors, however, were come at last, penetrating upwards 
of one hundred miles into the interior of their country ; 
come to convince them that such atrocities as had dis^ 
graced them for so many years could no longer be 
committed with impunity. 

Enough, however, had now been done in the way of 
chastisement for one occasion; ^^for while,'^ the Rajah 



174 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

well observed, "we stopped fer short of driving them 
to desperation, we still made them feel that they were 
no longer secure from punishment, even in their remotest 
retreats." 

On the 18th August the expedition again dropped 
down the Kanowit. On their way they met some 
twenty bangkongs from Mato, a place recently destroyed 
by the pirates. This was a detachment from a large 
force which the Mato people had left at the mouth of 
the river. They were handsome boats, about sixty feet 
in length; swift, light, and well armed. It was the 
first time they ever had the courage to enter these 
dangerous waters, and they were not a little dis- 
appointed — especially as they were smarting under such 
recent injuries — ^at having to turn back without being 
allowed to settle accounts with their oppressors. 

Among the prisoners taken in the course of this 
expedition was a Dyak boy about nine years old, whose 
father, as well as a brother, were in the pirate balla, and 
fell on the night of 31st July. This boy was brought 
to the Rajah's prahu. He was an intelligent little fellow, 
Ranjah by name : after a while he appeared quite at 
home ; smoked a cigar ; ate and chatted away as uncon- 
cerned as possible. When the boats, on their return, 
approached his late home, he stated that he knew where 
some jars with many valuables had been buried : they 
were found at the spot pointed out by him. The moment 
they were put on board, Ranjah thought that he had 



JUVENILE PRISONER. 175 

paid sufficiently for his ransom ; and, with tears in his 
eyes, for the first time begged that he might be put on 
shore, " If I let you go,'* said the Rajah, " how will you 
find your way to your friends ; for three days they have 
left their houses 1 " " If you let me go " answered the boy, 
** I will find my way ; I know the jungle well, and my 
mother will not be fisw away, as she does not know what 
has become of me." The Malays who were present said 
it was very true ; and that at his age it would be quite 
safe to trust a Dyak to his own guidance and instinct. 
When the Rajah told him he should have his liberty, and 
gave him some clothes, he soon forgot his tears ; and 
having received everything he asked for, such as a wine- 
glass, a tin of preserved meat, and a few minor articles, 
he was anxious to get away, to shew his mother what the 
Tuan Besar (Great Sir) had given him ; a packet of food 
was made up, sufficient to last him three days, to which 
was added a bottle of water. He embarked in a canoe 
under the care of a trustworthy Malay and a well-armed 
escort, and was landed near where his mother^s house 
once stood : he was guarded beyond the reach of any of 
the scattered bands from the expedition, and then left to 
find his own way. 

This boy had excited much interest among the 
Europeans. From his brother, who subsequently visited 
Sarawak, it was ascertained that for two days Ranjah 
had wandered on in the jungle path before he met any 
of his tribe : he had been carefiil of his provisions, and 



176 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

had plenty left when he was fallen in with. The treat- 
ment of this child had a good effect upon the Sakarran 
Dyaks, as was proved by the confidence with which 
numbers of them afterwards visited the " Lion's Den " at 
Sarawak. 

In the evening the expedition came to an anchor in the 
Rejang. The greater part of the auxiliary native force, 
having permission, returned to their homes. 

Tane, the petty chief of some Rejang Dyaks, welt 
acquainted with the people of the river, came on board to 
know if the Rajah would give an audience to the pirate 
chiefe, who had followed him down the river for that 
purpose. 

They came on board at nine o'clock. The chief spokes- 
man was a tall, raw-boned fellow, but he had rather a 
pleasant expression of countenance. His name was Jawi 
They came fi*om a creek, up which was the only village 
house that had offered any resistance : they were fine 
specimens of Dyaks, wearing long black hair, and a 
number of brass rings, as well in their ears as round their 
arms and legs. It is a common caution on the coast, to 
" beware of a Dyak with a profusion of rings ; he is sure 
to be one of the pirate band." 

A long conference was held. Jawi said it was very 
true that they went head-hunting ; and he admitted that 
they were indifferent as to whose head they took, or 
whose property they plundered, as long as they could 
exchange it for salt and iron : but he contended that these 



REJANG DYAKS— CONFERENCE. 177 

were not the habits of the community ;- that it was all 
done by the hot-blooded young men, who were difficult to 
control. If the community agreed to abstain for ever 
from piracy, would the Rajah punish the whole, for the 
acts of a few ? 

The Rajah replied that he would endeavour to spare 
the well-disposed ; but, he added, conversing in the Dyak 
style, " If you see sparrows devouring your rice, do you 
not try to kill them ? and if by chance some linnets are 
amongst them, do they not run the same risk as the com- 
pany they keep 1 In a flock of birds it is impossible to 
distinguish the good from the bad/' 

Jawi in the end foimd that he got the worst of the 
argument; so they promised to do their best to endeavour 
to persuade Buah Ryah of Insabi, the chief of the 
Kanowit River, to enter into an agreement with them to 
give up their piratical and head-hunting cruises. 

Before taking their departure, they requested permission 
to see the dreaded fire-ship that had done such fearAil 
execution on the night of the fight : — they had never seen 
one before. They looked about ; and after partaking of 
brandy and water appeared quite at their ease. 

On the 19th August, the Nemesis^ taking in tow the 
Singh Rajah and European boats, proceeded up the 
Rejang, to inquire into the proceedings of the Kanowit 
Dyaks, who had long been the great receivers of plundered 
property. In the evening they anchored near two long 
houses, raised, like the others, on piles forty feet high. 



H 



178 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAOO. 

full of natives ; one faced the river, the other was 
situated up the creek. These buildings contained no 
fewer than 1500 people. 

At night a conference was held. They could neither 
deny nor excuse the charge brought against them, not 
only of being in league with the pirates, but of occasionally 
joining their balla ; in proof of which human heads were 
found in their houses. They were glad to get off with 
no heavier punishment than a fine. The Kanowits are a 
tattooed race. 

While the conference was going on, a splash was heajxi 
as of a man in the water ; and the rapid current, in spite 
of every one being on the qui vive^ and lights at hand, 
soon carried the object out of sight. While the Europeans 
were yet wondering and gaping about, a young Malay, 
called Anah Ular (snake's child), plunged into the river, 
and striking out down the stream, grasped, just as he 
was sinking, the hand of one of the Royalisfs crew. 

The fines, which consisted of brass guns and jars, 
were slow in forthcoming, until some little demonstration 
was made on the part of the Rajah towards helping 
himself 

These guns and jars were afterwards sold by pubUc 
auction at Sarawak ; and the proceeds were appUed to 
rewarding the captors of prisoners taken without being 
hurt — a regulation of the Rajah, and an example that 
will have its effect in introducing a more humane system 
of warfare. 



RETURN TO SARAWAK. 179 

On the 22nd, the expedition quitted the Rejang. 
Several Siriki prahus took advantage of the convoy to 
exchange the oppressive government of Seriff Musahur 
(the Fortunate), for the more mild rule of the Rajah of 
Sarawak, at which place they all arrived on the 24th 
August, 1849. 

Such were this year's operations against these hordes, 
than whom few more formidable infest the Eastern 
Archipelago. The blow they then received is the greatest 
contribution yet made by England towards the security 
of the highway of nations. How long its effect will 
last is a problem resolvable by those general rules 
which apply to himian nature and human operations of 
any kind. After vigorous measures to eradicate a disease, 
we are commended to a systematic care of health 
restored ; if this be left to take care of itself, the morbid 
symptoms quickly re-appear. 

It seems almost ludicrous that the facts just narrated 
should require any sequel in the shape of a defence. 
Nevertheless, sundry pubUc speeches and proceedings Ue 
before me, testifying that some minds will remain uncon- 
vinced, even while the majority of imderstandings would 
be affronted by the offer of more proof. I shall now 
therefore follow up the subject as I proposed, first 
adverting to the charges publicly made against all 
concerned in the chastisement of the Bomean pirates ; 
and then offering my answer to them, as a small con- 
tribution to the cause of truth. 

n2 



180 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

In the meantime I may fitly close this chapter with 
the words of a well-informed writer in the Sincapore Free 
Press, who in February 1850, six months after the 
destruction of the Serebas fleet, bore this testimony to 
the change which it had already caused in the commercial 
sphere within its influence : — 

" A few, a very few years ago, no European merchant- 
vessels ventured on the north-west coast of Borneo ; now 
they are numerous and safe. Formerly, shipwrecked 
crews were attacked, robbed, and enslaved ; now they are 
protected, fed, and forwarded to a place of safety. The 
native trade now passes with careless indifference over the 
very same track, between Malludu and Sincapore, where 
but a little while ago it was liable to the peril of capture ; 
the crews of hundreds of prahus are no longer exposed to 
the loss of life or the loss of Uberty ; and a degree of 
security now reigns, so remarkably contrasted with the 
insecurity of past time, that we may well be tempted 
onward in a career recommended by policy and tested by 
experience. The recent successftd proceedings on the 
coast of Borneo have been followed by the submission of 
the pirate hordes of Serebas and Sakarran. The previous 
relaxation of the system had led to renewed outbreaks of 
piracy, to fresh depredations at sea, and to the loss of 
many guiltless lives. 

" What further evidence is needed on this subject 1 '' 
the writer of the article proceeds to ask. " Or, is it 
resolved, in spite of all, to sacrifice the innocent to the 



SALUTARY CHANGE. 181 

guilty, the trader to the pirate, the cultivator to the 
marauder, the peaceful to the turbulent, the oppressed to 
the oppressor 1 We are confident that the foolish, because 
ignorant, outcry which has been raised on this subject 
cannot long continue. It must be at an end as soon as 
people take the trouble to learn, or have fairly placed before 
them the real truth/' 



182 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAQO. 



CHAPTER XI 



RIPItT TO CHAROBS MADB BT MR. EVUM, PABTIOITLARLT A8 THKT AVFICT 

SIR JAMV BROOKl. 

I HATE now related those proceedings against the 
pirates of Borneo in 1849, on which, both in and out of 
Parliament (always, I believe, under the same hidden 
influences), the gravest charges have been reiterated 
against those of Her Majesty's servants upon whom was 
imposed the duty of striking a decisive blow at piracy. 

My next task is to refute those charges, particularly as 
they afiect my truly noble friend, Sir James Brooke. 

Mr. Hume has now twice moved for " inquiry '^ into 
those ^^ massacres of inoffensive people ;" and he observes 
correctly that such charges must, unless inquired into, 
" blast Sir James Brooke's character." I grant it ; but I 
deny Mr. Hume's exclusive right to dictate a mode of 
inquiry, or to repudiate an inquiry alreadj^ made. 

Mr. Hume ma^ at some time of his life have had a 
regard for some respectable man's character, even if he 
now has Uttle for his own. In ant/ one's case in which he 



J 



PARLIAMENTARY DECISIONS. 183 

ever felt an interest, has he not been accustomed to 
consider the acclamation of an ordinary grand jury, the 
most dedsive acquittal that could be&ll a character 
assailed ? How is it, then, that aspersions cast upon 
Sir James Brooke in 1850, and rejected by a majority of 
169 in Parliament, and by all England — ^for so it may be 
said — out of Parliament^ are reproduced by the man who 
declares in the same breath, that ^'it will be a great 
satisfaction to him if it should turn out that he has taken 
too strong a view — an erroneous view V Moved originally 
by public considerations, might not patriotism be satisfied 
when 169 independent gentlemen decide that he is in 
error, while only 29 can hesitate 1 Yet Mr. Hume 
denies himself the '^ great satisfaction" of being thus 
convinced; and imdertakes, in 1851, to show the same 
House of Commons that theirs are the " erroneous views." 
Again, with what result ? Two hundred and thirty 
members now repudiate the vocation of " blasting 
characters,'' while only nineteen are not ashamed. Yet 
even now we are told that the question only sleeps : 
indeed it scarcely sleeps. Mr. Hume has very lately 
reiterated his worst imputations, — not unwilling, appa- 
rently, to continue the dupe of others more obscure, 
whose malignant misinformation has deceived their 
betters into an expenditure of their own and the public 
time, which was worthy of a better cause. 

I was absent from England when those debates in 
Parliament took place. Assailing more particularly the 



184 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

character of Sir James Brooke, the charges advanced 
implicate also Admirals Cochrane and Collier, Captains 
Farquhar and Wallage, and myself; for I served, when 
last afloat, in - those latitudes where arose the cause 
of all discussion — the destruction of the " alleged " pirate 
fleet : indeed, I was very near having Captain Farquhar's 
part to act ; I should have acted precisely as he did — not 
without pain — nor did he : — but, without hesitation or 
remorse. In amusing myself therefore, and in aspiring 
to amuse the pubUc, with a retrospect of voyages in those 
seas, I consider it a duty, and it is an acceptable one, to 
re-asseverate and to prove those facts which are still 
disputed by ignorance, or by obstinacy, or by something 
worse. 

I am far from denying that in some points in con- 
nection with these subjects there may be a conscientious 
difference of opinion, especially when information looks 
authentic, and when informants are plausible. I would 
not impugn, therefore, the sincerity of those nineteen 
legislators, whose sympathies are still with the Bomean 
pirate at the expense of the English gentleman. I may 
remind them, however, without offence, that there is a 
connection between the understanding and the will, which 
makes it our own fault oftener than we suspect it to be, — 
when " seeing we see, and do not perceive." But, again 
and again, in ParUament, in Exeter Hall, or on any other 
arena, we are content to stand or fall by the voice of the 
public and by facts. In the latter place, more generally 



EXETER HALL ORATORS. 185 

resounding with the words of charity, some things have 
been said on the subject of Borneo which, from their 
incorrectness and their bitterness, are unworthy of a place 
where so many matters are well discussed touching the 
highest interests of mankind. But then it is — it can only 
be — ^by people who know what they are talking about ; 
whereas, on this subject, there is often an ignorance even 
of common geography, which leads them into many 
absurdities, — not to mention other and various points of 
information, without which not the most able orator is 
entitled to stand up and work upon the impulses of an 
unreflecting and confiding audience. 

There w-, doubtless, in the coimcils of Providence, a 
time ordained when wars shall cease in all the world ; 
but many signs, not yet visible in the distance, must 
herald that dawning of universal peace: and no 
peremptory " resolution '' of a Peace Society — no Essays 
on the unjustifiableness of armaments, can precipitate 
" the times and the seasons which the Father hath put in 
his own power/' Such a trip to the Eastern Archipelago 
as was suggested by a certain Captain Aaron Smith, amid 
" great consternation on the platform," would make plain 
to any of these respectable theorists what unattainable 
wishes arise out of their closet thoughts : how unfair 
towards fellow-Christians as sincere as themselves, but 
only more practical, are some speeches uttered by well- 
meaning enthusiasts, — who, ignorant of the vast world 
and of its actual doings, have worked themselves up vainly 



186 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

to expect, and eloquently, but not wisely, to descant upon 
a premature realisation of miUennial hopes. 

I have before me a private letter from my friend, Sir 
James Brooke, of which one passage would alone stir me 
to the task I have undertaken. I will commence by 
quoting it, that an honest man may say a few words for 
himself: — 

"We have taught them (the pirates) a lesson in a 
month, which will serve to keep them in check for some 
years, if not altogether, and which has thus saved the 
innocent and peaceful inhabitants of the coast from a 
system of depredation, the horrors and the consequences 
of which can only be fiilly appreciated by those on the 
spot. 

" For this good service I have been greatly abused and 
maligned by a party at home. I was surprised when 
first this attack was made on my reputation as a public 
man, and my character as a private one ; but I was 
neither confounded nor alarmed : on the contrary, I 
was inclined to be savage and fierce, and, in my rage, 
to rend friends as well as foes. As these gross attacks 
became more gross, more vindictive, and more frequent, 
I became cool and collected, and readily saw that my 
enemies were unwise and over-abusive. I collected the 
evidence necessary, which was full and conclusive, to 
rebut these malicious accusations; and, at the present 
time, with such defenders as the cause of truth has 
found, I have no feeling on the subject, excepting a 



MB. HUME'S SPEECHES. 187 

charitable contempt for those who have deemed it right 
to become my enemies and persecutors. I owe much 
to my Mends ; and any pain I have suffered from these 
attacks has been a thousand-fold overbalanced by the 
kindness of those who have stepped forward to advocate 
my cause, and the cause of truth and humanity. These 
friends are dear to me, and my sense of obligation is 
equal to their kindness. I owe them a debt of 
gratitude ; but I owe it with pride, and with the feeUng 
that I would repay it at any time that they needed a 
similar service, or any service that equal friendship (and 
there is no other) can render. 

^* By the last mail I received the approval of Govern- 
ment; and I suppose that, when the battle has been 
fought on the floor of the House of Commons, this 
calumny will pass away ; that it will be forgotten by 
the mass ; regretted by the conscientious, who have 
joined in it from good motives; and fed only by 
the few who have been actuated by malice, by 
spite, by jealousy, disappointment, or some other vile 
passion.'' 

I have read attentively, since my return to England, 
the debates in the House of Commons of July, 1850, 
and July, 1851, on the subject which is conspicuously 
entitled " The charges against Sir James Brooke." Mr. 
Hume having been the mover for " inquiry " on both these 
occasions, I purpose to found my observations principally 
on his speeches ; this will admit a fair and full 



188 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

examination of the points at issue, inasmuch as what 
Mn Hume has said in Parhament includes all that 
ignorance or ill-nature has said anywhere. 

I find two positions advanced by him ; and I deny them 
both. 

His first position is, That the Malays and Dyaks of 
Serebas and Sakarran are not pirates. 

His second, That, supposing they are pirates, an unjus- 
tifiable loss of Ufe was inflicted on them by the naval 
force which attacked their fleet on the 31st July, 1849. 

Some tasks are paradoxically difficult from their 
easiness. It is provoking to be put to great efforts for 
trifling ends. That which has long been with Mr. Hume 
a self-imposed amusement, is at our penitentiaries a morti- 
fying punishment ; I mean the task of turning a crank 
and grinding nothing. But the hardened hahittii cannot 
appreciate the disgust of those who are not amateurs. I 
have explained why / come to the crank at Mr. Hume's 
call. Before the appearance of a work, of which the 
shell only is mine, the kernel my friend^ his unobtrusive 
merits had their recompense — sufficient for him — ^in the 
affections of a people scarcely known by name to other 
Englishmen. The simple history disclosed in his journals 
placed him at once among the benefactors of his race ; 
and therefore I cannot again even name the Eastern 
Archipelago, without again bearing witness that the man 
who has chiefly given it interest for m reflects on his 
country as much honour as she can confer on him. I 



REASONS FOR WRITING. 189 

have another reason for entering on this subject. The 
omission to do so would disappoint Mr. Hume himself. 
In a published letter written within the last year, he 
expresses his surprise that Sir James Brooke "should 
sit down quietly under the heavy imputations under which 
he labours.^' But may they not sit so ligMy on him, in 
consideration of their authors, as to make it no labour to 
sit under them 1 

His friends, however, need not be such philosophers; 
and Mr. Hume would probably be the first to express a 
charitable surprise, if a known friend of Sir James Brooke 
were to pass over the piracy question in a publication on 
the Indian seas. It is a manner of proceeding imknown 
to any English court of law, equity, or honour, to charge 
a man as an impostor, a public delinquent, a murderer, 
and then to say, " Prove you are not so f nor could 
Parliament help Mr. Hume to fix on my friend these 
hard names more than he can help himself. Indeed, he 
possesses already all that truth could ever frunish him 
with from the East, — and a little more. Still, I am now 
at his service for a chapter or two. Those readers who 
have had enough of pirates may pass on to Chapter XVI., 
while the Honourable Member for Montrose may accom- 
pany me to the Serebas River, — where I advise him 
not to go alone. 

As an admitted definition is rather usefril, let us define 
a pirate : — 

" A sea-robber." — Johnson. 



190 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

" A saJt-water thief." — Shakspeare, 

And I beKeve that, according to law, he \b 2i pirate, 
" who commits at sea those acts of robbery and depreda- 
tion which, if committed on land, would amount to 
felony.'' 

And, according to international law, those persons form 
a piratical community who consent together thus to violate 
the universal law of society, in the spirit of universal 
hostiUty.* 

To leave nothing imanswered which Mr. Hume has 
valued as an argument, I will first take his principal 
points of " evidence '' in order, and then briefly add what- 
ever else may seem to bear upon those " strong views,'' 
which I desire, but scarcely hope, to give him the " great 
satisfaction " of admitting to be " erroneous " views. 

The materials on which Mr. Hume reUes to establish 
his arguments are as follows : — 

1. The journals of Sir James Brooke, as quoted by 
Captain Mundy. 

2. The works of Mr. H. W. Earl, author of " The 
Eastern Seas." 

3. Two letters from nameless oflBcers, and two from 
Captains Young and Daniell, of the East India Company's 

Naval Service.f 

4. Letter from " a Gentleman." Mr. W. H. Miles. 

5. Address from '* Merchants '^ of Sincapore. 

6. Letter from Captain The Hon, George Hastings, R.N. 

* Kent. t Produced as four distinct aathoritiea. 



MR. HUME'S WITNESSES. 191 

That Mr. Hume considers this an eflFective array, is 
seen by his running comments — such as this : — " Though 
such testimony is borne in their favour, death and destruc- 
tion has been dealt out against these unoflFending people " 
(the alleged pirates), and by the tone of several letters 
which have appeared since the last debate. 

Reviewing his phalanx in the above order, we shall see 
what each is worth. 

1 . It is well known, that Sir James Brooke lent Captain 
Mundy his manuscript journals, as he had previously lent 
them to myself. Captain Mundy published portions of 
them ; and in his pubUcation occurs a psussage which 
represents the Serebas as being " by no means warlike ;" 
and as having " a great dread of firearms/' These last 
words especially have been invaluable to Mr. Hume. 

The original journals were written in 1838. We know 
how readily savages— the Caflfres for example— adopt 
civilized modes of killing each other : so that such a 
statement as the above might be literally true when 
first made, and yet inappUcable in the course of a few 
years. This w in a great measure the case ; but this is 
not the right explanation of that discrepancy. Captain 
Mundy by a simple error of transcription makes an obser- 
vation apply to the Serebas people, which apphed in the 
original manuscript to an entirely different people — the 
Land Dyaks : " these^' says the author, " are darker 
than the Serebas ; they are by no means warlike," &c. 
Let the genuine sentence be seen parallel with Captain 



192 



A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 



Mundy's inadvertent variation, and there is an end of 
an argument^ to which Mr. Hume even yet clings with 
the tenacity characteristic of a weak cause and of himself. 



Sir James Brooke's manu- 
script runs thus : — 

" The Land Dyaks are inferior 
to those of the coast, they are 
darker than the Serebas. I%ey 
are by no means so warhke as 
the others ; and, from their great 
dread of firearms, may be kept 
in subjection by comparatively a 
small body of Malays.^' 



Captain Mundy's para- 
graph thus : — 

" Tie Serebas are by no means 
so warlike as the others ; and, 
from their great dread of fire- 
arms, may be kept in subjection 
by comparatively a small body of 
Malays.^' Vol. L, p. 237. 



Within two pages of this passage, is one which might 
have corrected this mistake ; for at p. 235 we read : " They 
(the Sakarrans) are the most savage of the tribes, the 
Serebas excepted, and delight in head-hunting and pillage." 

As to this ridiculous question of firearms, I have 
explained, in a former chapter, that these piratical com- 
munities comprise both Malays and Dyaks ; that the 
Malays of Serebas were always particularly well-armed ; 
and that among the Dyaks, although many had not fire- 
arms when Mr. Brooke first wrote of them, yet some had : 
and it is absurd to suppose that a writer could mean to 
describe a people as being afraid to use, or even to hear 
the sound of a weapon, which he knew them to be famiUar 
with. In his " letter from Borneo," so far back as 1841, 



QUESTION OF FIREARMS. 193 

Mr. Brooke stated, in a passage which I shall presently 
give at length, that the unwarhke Malays "employ the 
Serebas and Sakarran Dyaks^ aided hy a small party 
with ^rearms, to attack other tribes.^' This alone 
would be conclusive against any argument resting 
on an isolated and mis-quoted passage : but when 
Mr. Hume ^builds in 1851 upon fotmdations of 1838, he 
must think that the Dyak has been as unprogressive as 
himself. Not only did they use firearms against the boats 
of the Dido in 1842, but, ever since that time, guns and 
gunpowder have been the articles which they most eagerly 
purchase or plunder. Nor is this incompatible with a 
kind of cowardice, — not however extending, that I know 
of, to a fear of sound. Many a speech of Mr. Hume's has 
dispersed the House of Commons more eflFectually than a 
musket report ever frightened the Dyaks. By means of 
the free market of Sincapore, the Malays have long known, 
if not the name, the productions of Birmingham : and it 
is not likely that such powerful tribes as the Serebas and 
Sakarrans would neglect the musket, after it had been 
adopted by all their neighbours, and practically introduced 
to their own notice by our boats' crews. In a Lanun 
pirate prahu, taken by the Dutch last year, there were 
sixty-four muskets neatly arranged on racks, and 
the cabin had three port-holes, each bristling with 
a lela. 

I have already stated that the war-prahus of the 
Serebas Malays are as well appointed as the Lanuns' ; and 



194 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

I shall presently shew that these communities are intimate 
with each other, and often act together. 

Still, pirates are often cowards. Theirs is a sneaking, 
cowardly occupation, and operates as such on those who 
follow it. So says Captain Kloff, of the Dutch navy, an 
officer of much experience : — " In general these wretches 
exhibit little courage.^' He also says : " They are aU 
supplied with powder and shot. They fear extremely the 
armed ships of the Governments^ 

The fleet of 31st July, 1849, had muskets in every 
boat; and if we calculate them at the low average 
of eight to each boat, this would distribute 1200 
muskets among people " who run away from the very 
sounds It is admitted that in the same fleet there 
were four lelas. This is not many ; but it will be 
remembered that, according to the object, or to the 
anticipated emergencies of any particular expedition, 
the pirates go out in the Malay prahu^ or in the Dyak 
bangkong. The latter is the lighter vessel ; and of 
such the fleet destroyed was principally composed. 
They do not so commonly mount guns, as they are 
chiefly used when some necessity for rapid dispersion 
is anticipated. They are then easily run over shoals, 
or up narrow creeks ; or hauled up into the jungle, 
where the rattans, which hold the planks together, 
are cut asunder, and the pieces of the boat concealed. 
Thus, a bangkong carrying fifty or sixty men, pursued 
to the jungle, will wholly disappear before the pursuers 



GUNS. 196 

reach her. The crew will have walked off, each 
with his paddle, or some other portion of the 
boat's gear. Again, if these boats are caught in a 
sudden gale or squall at sea, out jump the crew ; 
and holding to the gunwale with one hand, sup- 
porting themselves with a paddle in the other, they 
will remain thus for hours, until the wind and sea 
have subsided. 

In the expedition of the Didoy guns (principally long 
brass swivels, or lelas) were taken at Patusan from these 
pirates, which realised by public auction at Sincapore 
£900, Although taken in a fort, they were mounted 
on ship-blocks or carriages, and had only recently been 
landed. I bought five of them, which I can show 
Mr. Hume whenever he pleases. The Malay chie& highly 
prize these guns, which are of native workmanship, and 
very handsome. Each has a name, and a history attached 
to it, which they are never tired of telling. It was said 
that the most eager bidders at the above sale were 
Malays, agents for their old owners, the Serebas chiefe. 
I had them all stamped with a private mark, by which 
they might he recognised, should we meet again. 

This kind of gun is equivalent to money, and is dealt 
with as money by the Malays. 

These explanations are not new to Mr. Hume. The 
very same work, which by one accidental omission put, as 
he thought, a sword into his hand, offered him fifty expla- 
nations, in which it ought to have been sheathed. He 

o 2 



196 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

brandishes it still, — but only to wound himself ; let me 
help him, by republishing one of his latest cuts. 

** Sir James Brooke caused many hundred wbak 
SAVAGES to be slaughtered under the allegation that they 
were pirates, who, according to his own published 
statements, are wholly incapable either of offence or 
defence, whether against Europeans, or the more civilised 
inhabitants of the same countries t " 

2. I pass to Mr. Hume's second witness, Mr. H. W. Earl, 
author of an interesting work, " The Eastern Seas.'* 

In him Mr. Hume parades an excellent authority as 
on his side, who is a decisive witness against him on the 
point at issue. 

The Honourable Member cites Mr, Earl as " declaring 
that the Serebas do not deserve the character given to 
them.''* 

In that gentleman's work I have failed to find any men- 
tion whatever of the Serebas by name. Truth, however, 
is my object ; and therefore I will first extract the few 
passages, which on cursory perusal might appear favourable 
to these people ; and then a page or two, which will 
place beyond dispute what is the testimony of Mr. EarL 

He has four chapters on Borneo, comprising particular 
notices of Sarawak and the north-western tribes. The 
following passages occur : — 

Page 254. "The Dyaks, or aboriginal inhabitants of 
Borneo, constitute by far the most interesting portion of 
its population." 

* HanBard. 



MR. EAUL ON THE DYAKS. 197 

Page 260. " The Dyaks are a much superior people to 
the Malays." 

Page 262. " Their domestic relations towards each 
other, — that is to say, towards members of their own family 
and tribe, — ^are of a mild nature, according with their 
general dispositions." 

And, after a particular account of the Dyak propensity 
for head-hunting, which Mr. Earl is inclined to ascribe to 
a religious superstition, he continues : — 

Pages 271 — 273. " The horrid massacres perpetrated 
by the wilder Dyaks would seem to sanction an opinion 
that all attempts to improve them would be hopeless : but 
I feel confident that no people on earth, with the excep- 
tion perhaps of their counterparts, the natives of South 
America, are so susceptible of civilisation. * * * Freedom 
of commerce, which has hitherto been found the best 
instrument of civilisation, would rapidly improve the con- 
dition of these people : and were an European settlement, 
with a fi^ee port, established on one of the numerous large 
rivers, the Dyaks would soon be brought into com- 
munication with it, for they are greatly addicted to 
commerce, and spare no pains to procure articles of 
foreign manu&cture, for which they have acquired 
a taste." 

Lastly, at page 210, in allusion, to the then recent 
discovery of antimony-ore at Sarawak, he says of that 
place, that "the rapidity with which it has risen to 
importance proves how very little encouragement the 



198 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

natives require, to induce them to turn the valuable 
productions of the island to account/' 

Now, what does all this amount to ? It bears in no 
way upon the character of the tribes charged with piracy, 
but on a part of the question which we are not yet 
discussing, — the suppression of the evil, and most par- 
ticularly where the good is ready to spring up. In the 
neighbourhood of Sarawak, or in any other neighbourhood 
where commerce waits but for security, give it security ; 
extinguish that pest, of which the signs are everywhere 
the same, — an absence of commercial life ; an unbusy and 
desolate aspect upon every shore and river-side within its 
influence. Whenever Dyak or Malay shall manifest an 
inclination for commerce, and a taste for foreign manu- 
factures, surely it is our duty and interest to foster it, and 
so to stand between them and their murderous and 
pillaging neighbours, that their commercial demands may 
not necessarily be confined to gunpowder from Dartford, 
and muskets from Birmingham. 

But let us see what Mr. Earl's work contains clearly 
applicable to the very Dyaks of Serebas and Sakabran. 

Mr. Hume " has given great attention to the subject ;" 
and yet his greatest errors must in charity be ascribed 
to misconceptions, which even a little unprejudiced 
attention would have prevented. His constancy to 
erroneous impressions once conceived must be referred 
to other phrenological peculiarities. Every writer whom 
he can have consulted — certainly all those whom he or his 



DIFFERENCES IN DYAKS. 199 

friends have quoted, — Mr. Earl, Mr. Brooke, (an accepted 
authority, before he became "wedded to honours which 
he never wooed,") Mr. Crawford — any one of these might 
have corrected his fundamentally erroneous idea that all 
Dyaks are alike. Nor is this confined to Mr. Hume. 
Mr. Cobden also, after divulging to the House on the 
authority of Crawford that "the Dyaks of Serebas and 
Sakarran are not Malays^' considers that he has proved 
they are not pirates 1 He can argue more conclusively 
when he understands his subject. It may be desirable, 
however, here to record a clear and simple explanation 
of this point. 

Dyaks differ from each other considerably, this 
difference being attributable chiefly to position, — according 
as they are " Hill Dyaks," or " Coast Dyaks." The former, 
though not free from the evil propensities incident to an 
uncivilised state, may be admitted to deserve what Mr. 
Earl says of them. The latter — ^living either close to 
the sea, or up the great rivers whence they go down to 
the sea — ^have, by evil communication with the Malays 
who dwell at the entrances of their rivers, "corrupted 
their own good manners ; " have become mixed up with 
the Malays, and have adopted with them the nefarious 
pursuits of piracy and slave-trade, engrafted on their 
own practices of foraging for heads. Referring to this 
distinction, Mr. Earl mentions "milder" and "wilder" 
Dyaks. " The milder," he says, " in the Chinese territory," 
— ^somewhat humanised, I conclude, by the influence of 



200 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

commercial industry, — "have totally abandoned their 
barbarous customs/' The same may certainly be said 
now of the Dyaks of Sarawak. But the " wilder '' Dyaks, 
while from superstition and congenital propensity they 
are murderers, are also made pirates and slave-dealers by 
that accident of locahty which brings them imder the 
influence and instruction of the Malays to whom these 
pursuits are natural. I have briefly stated this in a 
former chapter ; but it will bear enforcing here, because 
it is the answer to every asseveration that " the Dyaks" 
are not pirates. If they are " Sea Dyaks '^ (including 
those of the large rivers), " Coast Dyaks,'' " Wild Dyaks," 
they are almost invariably pirates. If they are " Land 
Dyaks," " Hill Dyaks," " Mild Dyaks "—they may be 
" harmless, inoffensive people," as respects piracy ; though, 
except in the regenerated province of Sarawak, they will 
still collect human heads. 

To no Dyak tribes in Borneo do these statements more 
truly apply than to those of the Serebas .and Sakarran 
rivers. One other circumstance borne in mind would 
prevent much " beating of the air " on this subject. The 
tribes of these two rivers so habitually unite their forces 
for piratical expeditions, and become when thus imited 
so mixed together, that both the rivers and both their 
respective races are often comprehended under either 
names,— I mean in conversation or familiar writing. In 
strictest accuracy we must speak of them as " the Malays 
and Dyaks of Serebas and Sakarran ; " but to avoid 



UNITY OF THESE TRIBES. 201 

tediousness, when this has been once premised, we include 
all under either designation, unless the contrary is evident. 
This ui^ity of habits, pursuits, and movements has existed 
from time immemorial between these communities. For 
example — I open at a venture my " Expedition to 
Borneo," and read as follows : — " These Dyaks " (the 
perpetrators of some atrocities alluded to) " were 
chiefly from Sakarran, mixed with the Serebas." So it 
is in many places ; and hence it follows that where, as 
for example in M. de Groot's report, the Serebas pirates 
are convicted by name, it is no acquittal of the Sakarrans 
— and vice versd. They are strictly partners in piracy. 

And now to examine Mr. EarFs positive evidence 
against these very people, I begin with a letter, which 
he has addressed to Sir James Brooke since the 
destruction of their fleet. 

"As one of the oldest, indeed I beUeve the oldest 
smndving British visitor to the western coasts of Borneo, 
I feel myself called upon to offer my testimony as to the 
state of those coasts sixteen years ago. I have a lively 
recollection, even at this distant date, of the terror in 
which the coast was kept by the very tribes which you 
have been instrumental in checking.'* 

Thus Mr. Earl was a precursor of Sir James Brooke in 
the Eastern Seas : his publication, also, preceded anything 
of the kind by Mr. Brooke ; and if so, what becomes of 
Mr. Hume's assertion that " Sir James Brooke was the 
first person who denounced the Dyaks as pirates 1 " 



202 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

And now, how does Mr. Earl denounce them ? 

In " The Eastern Seas," at page 269, occurs the 
following passsage: — " A year or two before my arriyal 
on the coast, the entire population of the town of Slaku 
was cut oflF, during a night attack, by a powerful tribe of 
WILD Dyaks from the north-west coast, who came down 
in search of human heads. They swept the whole coast, 
from their native place, Sakarran,* to Sambas. None 
of the inhabitants of Slaku survived to tell the tale. 

* * * The people of Borneo Proper/' he adds, 
" care not whose heads they obtain, if their own are 
untouched," &c. 

Mr. Hume, professing to know and believe this 
work, has yet " failed to obtain one single iota of proof 
that the Serebas and other tribes are in the habit of 
foraging for heads." Yet he has excusably declined an 
invitation to Sarawak, saying " he should expect — ^he 
would not say what." 

Still — is head-taking piracy f Admit that it is a 
silly pastime, — admit, even, that a man's head-piece is 
his private property : still, a fleet of prahus bringing 
home only the skvUs of every individual in the town 
of Slaku might not be adjudged in Courts of Admiralty 
to have plundered such "piece-goods" as would bring 
them within legal definition as pirates. 

We can afford to admit all this, if Mr. Hume will, 



* In the letter above mentioned, from Mr. Earl to Sir James Brooke, he 
rectifies an erratum in his book, by which Sakarran is called Sehassan ; I there- 
fore adopt the correction. 



MR. EARL ON THE SAKARRANS. 203 

for a moment longer, keep his own witness " in 
the box/' 

His friends, the Dyaks, while only beheading towns, 
shall, as suggested by Lord Palmerston, be engaged in an 
" amiable pimguit — merely intertribal war,'' if we may just 
ask Mr. Earl another question, — Whether they do not 
occasionally vary their amusement, and combine the 
business of plunder with the pleasures of assassination? 

Mr. Earl repUes— " They do." 

" The north-west coast, from Point Datu to Borneo 
Proper, an extent of nearly three hundred miles, is scarcely 
known to the native trader, although it is held to be as 
rich in natural productions as any other part of the island. 
The country is occupied by several powerftd Dyak tribes, 
differing only in dialect, who here, as elsewhere, are 
engaged in perpetual warfare. The most adventurom 
of the tribes is that of Sakarean, a spot about a hundred 
miles to the eastward of Sarawak, the people of which 
are said by the Malays to be of a more lofty stature than 
the others — a statement which I suspect means only that 
the tribe is more powerful. They sometimes make long 
voyages down the coast, and their murderous visit to 
Sambas has already been mentioned. The Dyaks, 
however, are not the sole occupants of this •part of the 
coast, for the Lanuns, a piratical people from the island of 
Magindano, are estabUshed in several of the harbours, 
where they live chiefly in their prahus, which are from 
twenty to sixty tons burthen. During the south-east 



204 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

monsoon, a proportion of these vessels cruise in the more 
civilised parts of the Archipelago, chiefly near the 
entrances of the straits leading to Sincapore, where they 
attack and plmider the prahus of the native traders ; and, 
when about to return to their haunts in Borneo, 
generally manage to surprise some small town or village, 
the entire population of which is often carried away into 
slavery. During the absence of the fleets, the women 
and children remain on the coast of Borneo with the rest 
of the prahus, to take charge of the booty already col- 
lected ; and, as the females are nearly as warUke as the 
men, and und^stand the use of firearms^ they are con- 
sidered suflBciently powerful to beat ofi* the Dyaks, from 
whom alone they are Uable to molestation. 

" The Dyaks and the Lanuns, indeed, occasionally join 
forces; in which case the human heads and the iron 
procured in the cruise down the coast are claimed by the 
former, the remainder of the plunder 'being resigned to 
the Lanuns. When a sufficient quantity of plunder and 
slaves have been collected by the Lanuns, they return to 
their own country, and their place is supplied by others, 
who settle for a time on the coast in order to enrich 
themselves by the same means.^' 

Here th€y^ are then, — these Sakarran innocents, — 
denoimced (and not first by Sir James Brooke) as con- 
federates, harbourers, or hirelings, as may suit them, of 
the greatest scourge of the Archipelago, the Lanuns, 
whom even Mr. Cobden invites the Bajah to chastise ; and 



" LETTER FROM BORNEO." 205 

thus it is, that the more we learn of them from competent 
authorities, the worse we find them ; and the fact here 
elicited that, besides atrocities on their own account, 
they are at the service of any chance pirates-of-passage, 
who may require auxiKary cut-throats and pillagers, is 
confirmed by Mr. Brooke's earliest publication, a work 
which is as much to his honour as anything he has ever 
written, — his disinterested and Christian "Letter from 
Borneo,'' 1841. 

" The «^wwarlike Malays," he writes, " when they would 
without risk plunder a weak Dyak tribe, seizing also for 
slavery the women and children, generally employ the 
Serebas and Sakarran Dtaks, aided by a small party 
with firearms, to make the attack. The terms of the 
agreement are that the Malays get two-thirds of the 
property and slaves, while the Dyaks get the other third 
and all the heads. Of twenty Dyak tribes under this 
Grovernment more than half have been robbed of their 
wives and children in part ; and one tribe is without 
women and children amongst them, upwards of two 
hundred having been led away into slavery at Sakarran 
and Sadong." 

Again, 

" Several of the Bomean Pangerans aboui six months 
since * invited ' a large party of Sakarran Dyaks to the 
plunder of the tribes up the river. A hundred war prahus 
of the Sakarrans, carrying 3000 men, arrived at Kuchin 
and requested permission to make the attack." 



206 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

Mn Brooke's opportune arrival at Kuchin, and his 
energetic demonstration against this sort of entertainment, 
sent the invited empty away. But "since that time," 
proceeds the journal, " another native chief haa sent the 
Sakarran Dyaks to attack a tribe called Sunpro. After 
a night surprise, they captured forty women and children, 
killing about the same number of men, and burning their 
village/' 

"Heads collected — slaves procured — vessels plimdered 
on moderate terms/' Such then is the calling of the 
tribes in question. No book, no living witness of credit, 
can be consulted without verifying the long unchallenged 
testimony of Mr. Brooke himself, penned before any 
circumstance had arisen which malignity could distort 
into a motive for false-colouring. Twelve years ago he 
echoed a truth which was before notorious, but which had 
never been certified so unsuspiciously, nor with such 
disinterested views — that "piracy and the slave-trade 
were openly carried on within a short distance of three 
European settlements on a scale and system revolting 
to humanity ; that, within a few days' sail of Sincapore, 
horrors had been for years enacted, which might be 
suppressed in a few months by vigorous measures ; fleets 
of Lanuns each year waiting for the prahus bound for 
our great Eastern emporium, capturing them, and often 
inflicting on their crews miseries equal to those of the 
middle passage ; and fleets of the Dyaks of Serebas 
and Sakarran, sweeping the shores even to Celebes, 



"LETTER FROM BORNEO." 207 

murdering the men of all nations, and capturing women 
and children; rendering the communication along the 
coast dangerous, and preventing the cultivation of the 
soil near the sea-shore/' 

What matters it who " first denounced *' such people 1 
Let Mr. Hume assign the disgrace to Sir James Brooke ; 
let his " merchants " bestow a share of it on me. " Things 
that are not let them make to be, and things that are 
let them make not to be,'' as a Malay would say. 
Confessedly, however, the most earnest, though not the 
first, appeal to England was made by the first English 
Rajah of Sarawak. He was qualified above others to 
certify how largely these tribes have contributed to a 
scourge, which foreign nations had long before stigma- 
tised as " THE CALAMITY OF THE ARCHIPELAGO ! " Twelve 
years have passed since his appeal came home — ^not a 
new thing, but from a new kind of man ; offering 
remedial suggestions, pure and disinterested, and ready, 
if it would secure their adoption, " either to give place to 
another or to remain himself: '^ and he was then Rajah 
of SarawaL The remedies he proposed were — not fire 
and sword, but " the extension of commerce, the propa- 
gation of Christianity, the amelioration of an innocent 
and industrious race." And he it repeated that all his 
suggestions came recommended by an opinion — too 
sanguine perhaps for some, but coincided in by the most 
experienced — that the evil, which stood in the way of 
so much good, might be suppressed in a few months by 



208 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

vigorous measures. If any now estimate Sir James 
Brooke's sagacity by the fact that piracy is unsuppressed, 
we must first agree as to what are " vigorous measures/' 
But this would touch prematurely on a separate question. 

We have now sifted Mr. Earl and Mr. Brooke, from 
whose works albeit the uncandid and the perverse may 
detach passsages to give a colouring to thdr views, 
common sense will decide thus much, — that there are 
Dyaks wild as well as mild, — wild even beyond wild feats 
in craniology : exercising a destructive vigilance over the 
commerce of a vast expanse of ocean and extent of shore, 
which, through a want of counteracting vigilance, has 
become their empire and their home. Such is the evi- 
dence of Mr. Hume's two wmmpeachable witnesses. With 
np very high opinion of the one as a Rajah, he insists on 
quoting him as a writer : therefore so may we. The 
other gentleman is equaJly an authority; he is at this 
time an able contributor to colonial literature, and an 
ornament to the society of Sincapore. How could the 
honourable member cite two such men, and not know that 
they would instruct where they were meant to bamboozle, 
and clear what they were called to mystify ? 

But now, according to his Law-Dictionary, a " pirate " 
must use a particular kind of boat, and must attack a 
particular kind of ship — a square-rigged vessel. 

It is scarcely a question for serious argument, whether 
the shape of a sail, or the size of a hull should determine 
the character of a " salt-water thief." It is as if a land- 



TESTIMONY FROM MANILLA. 209 

lubber, to be a pickpocket, must rob a guardsman ; or ta 
be a burglar, mtist try the doors of BunJey HalL Surely 
he is equally worthy of Norfolk Island, if he exercise his 
crow-bar on the porter's lodge. But if this objection be 
serious, it is easily answered* It is easily shown that 
these pirate-tribes have been guilty of attacks on square- 
rigged vessels- 

A return has been produced in Parliament from Lloyd's, 
showing that between thirty and forty square-rigged 
vessels have been "captured, plundered, or molested" 
within the last twelve years by Malay or Dyak pirates, — 
the crews in many cases having been murdered. Grant 
that aU these outrages cannot be brought home to the 
Serebas and Sakarrans ; still when we do convict them 
hundreds of nnles from their own rivers,—" sweeping the 
coast even to Celebes,'' — we may fairly lay to their charge 
a proportion of these outrages of which the perpetrators, 
though not named, are traced from "Borneo." And, 
again, what is the fair inference from that despatch of the 
Consul at Manilla, cited by Lord Palmerston ? He says 
that during his five years of residence there " merchant- 
vessels, American or British, have been attacked, and their 
crews carried into slavery, — that square-rigged vessels 
have disappeared, and never been heard of, carried oflF, as 
it was presumed, by pirates : but that in consequence of 
recent operations of British ships of war on the northern 
coast of Borneo, as well as of the operations of the Dutch 
and Spaniards, trade is becommg more secure, and the 



210 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

proceedings of the pirates had been considerably checked,'' 
Now British ships have acted against the Ssbebas and 
Sakarran hordes. li^ therefore, since these operations 
fewer or no attacks have been made on merchant-vessels^ 
the conclusion is that the former attacks were made by 
them. 

But while we have only inferences to guide us in one 
direction, simply because there have been no cruizers in 
our own portion of these seas, we can find facts quite conclu- 
sive, where vigilance has been exercised, and records kept. 

In De Groot's report, p. 107,* there are several distinct 
references to outrages committed by " flotillas of Dyak 
prahus " at Sambas, at Mampawa, and other places on the 
coast of Pontiana. They dared even to lie in wait for 
the man-of-war schooner Haaiy and in one engagement 
killed thirty-seven of the Dutch, losing eighty of their 
own force. " These Dyaks,'' concludes the report, " came 
from Sbbebas, a locaHty north of Sambas, only accessible 
to the small light vessels of the Dyaks, of slender form. 
In their voyages they bum and massacre along the shores 
all that is within their reach. As trophies they carry ofl* 
the skulls of the victims of their ferocity.'* So that here 



'*' M. De Groot's compilation, entitled, " Paper relating to the Piracies eom- 
mitted in the Indian Archipelago/' is a remarkable comment on Mr. Hnme's 
observation that " there may be some pirates, but they are few." It fills sixty 
folio pages, and records, on an ayerage, ten outrages per page, including eyeiy 
kind of attack on every kind of vessel, with all the incidents of massacre, burning, 
slavery, &c., and yet it is chiefly confined to such as have afiected the Dutch 
commerce, and to the measures taken by the Netherland Government for the 
suppression of piracy. 



8QUARE.RIQQED VESSELS. 211 

we have specific acts of " daring " outrage on European 
vessels of wm*, brought home to the Dyaks of Serebas ; 
we have "their voyages," mentioned, as one refers to 
common occurrences ; we have their atrocious habits 
above those of other pirates ; we have their boats des- 
cribed as exactly of that kind in which Mr. Hume protests 
they could not practise piracy. 

And not only do we see that " square-rigged " vessels 
hme been attacked by Sebebas pirates, but it is probable 
there have been numerous instances ; for, besides 
the actual or presumptive proofe already adduced, there 
are, in De Groot's report, abundant records of such out- 
rages by pirates of Borneo : and we may fairly reason 
that those pirates of Borneo, who have been the least 
watched or controlled, are likely to have been the most 
mischievous; and no part of the island has been so 
incompletely or so irregularly protected as that north- 
west coast which, having depended on the guardianship of 
England, has been consigned considerably to the mercies 
of the Serebas. 

But whatever has been the number of their outrages on 
European vessels, a word will explain why they have not 
been more. The trade of the Indian Archipelago is not 
carried on principally in square-rigged, but in native craft. 
I have now before me the return from Sincapore for the 
year 1849, ending just previously to the destruction of 
the Serebas fleet : it shows a proportion of four native 
vessels to one European, engaged in the trade to that 

r 2 



212 VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

port aJone ; and it is not less in other directions. The 
native prahus accordingly offer fourfold opportunity, not 
to mention the diminished risk to pirates. There has, 
however, started into life, since Captain Farquhar^s chas- 
tisement of these hordes, such an accession of trade to 
Sincapore in native vessels from Sarawak alone, as must 
have greatly increased this proportion, — a fact which 
might alone make clear to any unprejudiced person what 
has been the sinister influence hitherto crippling and 
depressing it. 

I will here bestow one word on an argument of 
Mr. Hume, founded on the lightness of the Dyak boats: — 

" From the class of boats used by them, it is impossible 
they can be pirates.^' 

It should be borne in mind that, during the prevalence 
of the southerly monsoon, the sea is always calm and 
smooth on the north side of Borneo (and vice versd). 
This, therefore, is the season of activity both for the 
trader and his spoiler. As regularly as the one ventures 
out with his cargo, he finds the other waiting to dis- 
encumber him of cargo, liberty, and, if it suit him, life. 

Nothing but forgetfulness or ignorance of the nature of 
the monsoons, and of their effect on the seas subject to 
their influence, could suggest a doubt as to the possibility 
of pirates using light and slightly-built boats at these 
particular seasons. I have stated before of the Serebas 
pirates that they go out either in the Malay war-prahu, 
which is as formidable as a Lanun's, or in the Dyak bang- 



CAPTAIN KLOFF. 213 

kong, according to the object of the expedition, or to their 
expectation of meeting an enemy : but " the smaller the 
vessel,'' says Captain Khff, " the quicker its progress ; 
for this reason in these expeditions, for which the pirates 
have collected together a great number of vessels, they 
leave the larger ones behind some island, reserving them 
for the piu'pose of covering a more important attack^ 
while they proceed on their piratical projects vrith the 
smaller craft." 

Captain Kloff is a Dutch officer who was employed in 
the Eastern Seas, to collect for his Government " all the 
details that could be obtained respecting piracy." The 
reader will decide which is the best authority on pirates' 
boats. 

I find myself following up this subject more particularly 
than I at first intended : but it cannot have lost its 
general interest ; for it involves no mere insignificant 
squabble, although much personality has been on one 
side resorted to. 

I hold the question to be this, — whether individual 
spleen and rancour, having succeeded in mystifying a 
handful of public men — not all disposed nor all qualified, 
as their speeches show, to form an unprejudiced opinion 
for themselves — shall be permitted, through these par- 
liamentary auxiliaries, to harass an eminent servant of 
his Sovereign ; one who, by a chain of singular events 
such as is witnessed only once in many generations, 
has acquired the power, and is blest also with the vrill, to 



214 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

shed an enduring lustre on the country of his birth. But 
for this end, he must take home to the land of his 
adoption a feeling that he is confided in and co-operated 
with, as a man single in purpose, strong in desire, as in 
power, for good. 

In that case even we, his cotemporaries, may live to see 
radiating from the scene of his remarkable career, as from 
a splendid centre, bright rays of freedom, of social and 
commercial intercourse, and, above all, of pure and 
practical Christianity, which shaU ecUpse the splendour of 
the warrior, by humanising the barbarism which he 
l>erpetuates. 

The feelings which were uppermost with my friend 
Brooke on first visiting these shores have stolen, as it 
were, without any parade of his before the pubhc eye — 
first, I am happy to say, through my own appreciation 
of them, — ^they are embodied in some lines which the 
reader will thank me for recalUng to his memory, and to 
which he may give the best practical response by his 
support of the Bomean mission :— - 

" Beautiful land ! upon ao pure a plain 
Shall Superstition hold her hated reign % 
Must Bigotry huild up her cheerless shrine 
In Buoh an air, on such an earth as thine ? 
Alas ! Beligion from thy placid isles 
Veils the warm splendour of her heav*n1y smiles. 
And the 'rapt gazer in the beauteous plan 
Sees nothing dark except the soul of man.** * 

Can any hereafter sympathise with those who would 

* Pracd. 



CONSOLATION. 215 

fein cripple his energies in a sublime, yet eminently 
practical sphere of usefulness, — with those who, of 
mere maUce, would misrepresent pure motives, felsely 
characterise a well-directed enthusiasm, and throw back 
upon itself every patriotic purpose, mortified by suspicion, 
and frustrated through mistrust ? 

I doubt whether, for a renewed persecution, all England 
will muster so many as the last Parliamentary nineteen ; 
but however this may be, my friend may comfort himself 
with the consideration that " Vermin do ever devour 
the purest com ; and moths eat into the finest cloth ; 
and the cantharides blast the sweetest flowers ; and the 
vultiu'e draweth sickness from a perfume." 

We have as yet heard only two of Mr. Hume's 
witnesses to the truth ; but they are of such a different 
stamp from those who are to follow that they shall have 
this chapter to themselves. 



216 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 



CHAPTER XII. 



&IPLT TO MB. HUMB OONTINUBD — HIS OAPTAIKB — HIS " GEHTLKMAR ' HIS 

"MBBOHAVTS" — HIS PBOXPTBBS— HIMSELF. 

In commenting on the light which Mr. Earl and 
Mr. Brooke have thrown upon the character of the 
Serebas and Sakarrans, I have necessarily made many 
observations which will apply with equal force to 
Mr. Hiune's further " evidence." Still, his witnesses are 
worth hearing ; or rather, it is worth while to hear from 
themselves how Uttle such a set were worth the labour 
of bringing together, to waste a night's debate for the 
Commons of England, to expose themselves to contempt, 
and those who brought them at least to ridicule. Two 
years of that industry for which Mr. Hume is remarkable 
were occupied in getting up his strength for this debate : 
frequent references were, I believe, made by or for him to 
Sincapore and Borneo ; and when at last, on the 10th of 
July 1851, he opens his battery, we may with a natural 
curiosity scrutinise every gun, which it took years to 
bring into play, and minutes to silence. 



" AT LAST." 217 

" At last '* exclaimed the honourable gentleman, " an 
opportunity was afforded him," &c. Let us see what reason 
he had to exult in the opportunity. Certainly we have 
now the issue to judge from. We have seen his 

'' Telam imbelle, sine icto/' 
His strengihless weapon hXl without a stroke ; 

but let US see what he owes to those who furnished it ; 
who sent him with armour that he had not proved, to 
face on the Parliamentary battle-field the giant Truth. 

With regard to the witnesses whom we have cross- 
examined, Mr. Earl and Mr. Brooke, it is most desirable 
for Mr. Hume's credit to think that he had never read 
the works from which he quotes so partially, that he 
had trusted for a supply of fair arguments to those who 
had first set him up as their senatorial Thersites, 
and then deceived him. It will be observed that I 
distinguish between Sir James and Mr. Brooke ; allowing 
"honorable gentlemen" to reject him as imworthy of 
credit, ever since his Sovereign marked him as a yood 
subject, and selected him as a trustworthy representative. 
As Mr, Brooke, he is only the private traveller, journal- 
ising his progress as the custom is ; — ^and, as such, credited 
and quoted by Mr. Hume himself^ honours not then 
having made him dishonourable, general admiration not 
having made him an impostor, the confidence of the great 
and the good not having worked him up to his present 
unworthiness in the eyes of — I am ashamed, I hesitate to 



218 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

say — of Mr. Hume. It would be much pleasanter to 
think, — I try to think, — that my Lord Palmerston was 
right in his opinion, that ^' the honorable gentleman had 
sufficient natural candour not to feel so confident as 
hitherto as to the soundness of his conclusions." But why 
not then throw it up with a good grace? surveying 
his dependances, he might candidly have exclaimed, 

" Oh Jove ! I think foundatioDS fly the wretched ; ** 

and might have beat that honourable retreat, which is only 
inferior to a victory. Why, above all, reiterate to the 
present moment the worst things he has ever said, 
repudiating the friendly extenuations of those who would 
fain think better thmgs of him, and compeUing the once 
attacked to go still armed, as being still before an enemy ? 

I proceed then to examine in all good humour a set 
of letters and documents too ridiculous for anger, and 
almost for argument. They were, however, as the world 
knows, gravely brought out, read, conmiented on, not 
only by Mr. Hume, but by those who followed on his 
side ; and they were by them considered to have proved 
beyond controversy a point, which I wish I could lay 
down in some new shape, — that Sir James Brooke had 
massacred 1500 or 2000 innocents — the Serebas ^nd 
Sakarrans not being pirates. 

There is one special reason for giving these vntnesses a 
candid hearing, viz., that their " evidence " comes up to 
the latest date before the destruction of the fleet : the 



THE FIVE CAPTAINS. 219 

"alleged" pirates might have reformed within eight or 
ten years. True, Sir James Brooke still maintains that 
they were, in 1849, quite as villanous as before. So say 
I : so says Captain Farquhar : so say a cloud of 
witnesses — whom, however, Mr. Hume's captains are to 
put to flight 

Mr. Cobden shall introduce them, in the terms he 
used, after hearing Mr. Hume's opening speech : — " My 
honourable friend has brought forward in evidence Jive 
letters written by naval commanders stationed upon the 
very coast ; and he pledged himself to bring them forward 
to give evidence, if this inquiry should be granted." 

Five naval commanders, each the writer of a letter 
" from the very c6ast " of Borneo. 

" There is, first," continues Mr. Cobden, " Captain 
Daniell, of the Indian Navy : then there is Captain 
Young, of the Indian Navy : then there are two other 
letters from captains in the Navy. One of them had 
been sixteen months stationed on the coast of Borneo : 
the other had been stationed at Labuan." 

I conclude that. the fifth Captain referred to is my 
friend, Captain Hastings, whose letter to Mr. Hume shall 
have its turn. This leaves us four to dispose of now. 
Mr. Hume's account of these four letters is substantially 
the same as Mr. Cobden's : there can be no mistake about 
what he meant the House of Commons to beUeve. 

The answer that awaits these vaunted letters is 
unpleasant. They were not written by four oflScers, but 



220 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

by two ; and Mr. Hume knew this at the time ! Whether 
Mr. Cobden knew it also we need not decide. He must 
choose between assisting to mislead, or being himself 
misled, by a statement of which he made strong use in 
debate, but which was wholly inconsistent with the naked 
truth. The truth is this : that each of these two " cap- 
tains of the Indian Navy/' by a coincidence which points 
to some one suggestive agency, addressed to Mr. Hume, 
or for his use, two letters ; one authenticated, but 
carefully telling him nothing ; the other unauthenticated, 
and, therefore, after the manner of anonymous writers,, 
much more venturesome. I may observe at once that 
Mr. Hume has lately confessed this to have been so in the 
case of Captain Young : — ^that the officer who " does not 
feel justified in giving an opinion," and the " officer '* who 
gives a very free opinion, are one and the same ! Such a 
mode of multiplying witnesses is decidedly more ingenious 
than ingenuous. But I have not seen the same admission 
as to the letters of Captain Daniell. I shall be happy to 
give Mr. Hume my reasons publicly for assigning in like 
manner two of the letters to that officer's pen : and of the 
trick thus repeated one can but say that it is only half 
as ingenious the second time, and doubly disingenuous. 

And now let us see what they contain. 

What particular inquiries Mr. Hume addressed to 
Captain Young can only be surmised from his reply. He 
seems to have worked himself up into a fear that a 
piratical balla, if there be such a monster, would some 



CAPTAIN DANIELL « CONCLUDES;' 221 

day make its appearance off the Norfolk coast, and send 
a detachment head-hmiting to " Bmiiley Hall." So his 
question was not simply, "Are the Serebas pirates?" 
but, ** Are they enemies of this great and happy land ? " 

Captain Daniell's reply is enough to re-assure England 
through its length and breadth : — " I conclude that the 
enemies of the Sarawak tribe are not pirates, nor enemies 
of this great and happy land." And his authority for 
this conclusion must set the matter at rest. "A 
merchant " told him so ; and told him, in proof thereof, 
that " small coasting-yessels under the English flag had 
been in the habit of trading to and from Bruni for the last 
twenty-five years, and that they had never been molested," 
He, Captain Daniell, also "learnt that the Dyaks in 
question were not noted and desperate pirates, but merely 
enemies of the Sarawak tribe, from time immemorial." 
Lastly, though stationed sixteen months on the coast of 
Borneo, " he never saw nor heard of a pirate, which 
greatly disappointed him ; as he was led to suppose the 
coast abounded with them." 

These " conclusions " Mr. Hume's " officer " contributes 
anonymously ; but, as Captain Daniell, late of the steam- 
fiigate SemiramiSy on the Bomean coast, he is short and 
simple : " he never fell in with a pirate, nor ever heard of 
the Dyaks in question having molested an English or 
foreign vessel." 

Going back, however, to what he has said, "on the 
other side of his mouth,'' let me, in reply, ask Captain 



222 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

Daniel], or his " merchant '' friend, whether they deny that 
there are tigers at Sincapore 1 They eat up Chinamen 
at the rate of one per diem : yet, inasmuch as none come 
home to say they are eaten up, and inasmuch as many 
still go to and fro uneaten, is it therefore that there are 
no tigers in the jungles of Sincapore ? Trading prahus 
haoe passed unmolested, just as Chinamen have walked 
uneaten : but the point is (as proTed by the immediate result 
of the action of 1849) that ten times so many would have 
passed, had there been no pirates : and who can tell how 
many have disappeared under a system which applies fire and 
sword to obliterate all traces of its atrocities ? The inter- 
cepted prahu merely never reaches Borneo, or never arrives 
at Sincapore ; and there is an end of it. But if Captain 
Darnell's " merchant '' meant to tell him that, for twenty- 
five years, he — ^being in the way of hearing — ^had not heard 
of any small coasting-vessel being molested by pirates, I 
must now merely refer him to the preceding chapter, 
wishing his memory and his conscience much good there- 
from. But again, if there be some quibble in reserve about 
" the English flag,'' he will learn, as he reads on, that, in the 
judgment of some as learned in definitions as himself, the 
" flag " attacked makes no more difference than the " rig." 
It has been strongly asserted in Parliament, probably 
on this authority, — an anonymous officer quoting an 
anonymous merchant, — that these desperate hwdes of 
enemies to the world at large are "merely immemorial 
enemies of the Sarawak tribe." Nothing can be more 



CAPTAIN YOUNG « OPINES." 223 

&lse. There are, besides the Sarawak, about forty com- 
munities on the coast of Borneo, all living at peace with 
each other, all continually invaded, plundered, massacred 
by the Serebas and Sakarrans. They are at like enmity 
with the Netherland Grovemment, which has often appealed 
to us to carry out our treaties, by which we are bound, 
though it clash with Captain Darnell's "conclusion," to 
treat as " enemies of this great and happy land '^ a people, 
who profess to " make no difference, when at sea, but to 
rob and murder all alike/' 

Finally, I can introduce Mr. Hume to a gentleman who 
has often heard Captain Daniell express a hope that he 
might be sent against these very pirates ! 

In Captain Young's communications, as in Captain 
Daniell's, a wonderful difference between the responsible 
and the irresponsible is seen. We have first a modest 
Uttle billet to the effect that, " as a Gh)vemment servant, 
he does not feel himself justified in giving an opinion 
on the affair in question." This note has the orna- 
ment of his name : but as he gets behind his screen he 
becomes more oracular, and recounts that, " having been 
stationed at Labuan for the protection of that island,'^ 
(against whom?) "and having made three trips" (whither?) 
" in his steam-fiigate, and one flying visit to Sarawak 
without seeing pirates, he opines that the Malays in that 
neighbourhood are not given to piracy, as understood by 
Englishmenl^ — ^he adds that " no person seeing their 
prahus could have any great dread of them as sea-pirates ; 
that small vessels run between Sincapore and Borneo, 



224 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

without dreading them/' — and finally that he^ the said 
Captain, made one such TOjage, and now lives to tell it 
He adds, however, " to be sure this was in the bad season 
when their prahus do not venture out." 

Surely here is something of an admission that they are 
reputed pirates, who have a " season " for showing them- 
selves. But to be seen by armed frigates is not their 
way of doing business. "They fear extremely," says 
Captain Kloff, " the armed ships of the Government :'' 
and another European, one Alexander Bross, who had 
been compelled as a captive to serve in a pirate fleet, 
describes their general habit : — " We had orders to go and 
cruise to await merchant-vessels. We had been four 
days in ambush, when we perceived the Siewa, man- 
of-war, of the Colonial Navy. We concealed ourselves 
immediately behind some islands. But when the danger 
was passed, we resumed our station, and captured a 
prahu laden with rice.'' Thus it is that they go sneaking 
about in " bawbling vessels," 

" For shallow draft, and bulk, unprizable/' 

and surely Captain Young could not have expected to see 
such gentry unless he had been employed to look for them. 
Occasionally, indeed, some Conrad or Lara of the Archi- 
pelago gives a gallant captain an opportunity to enact the 
Duke Orsino : — 

** Notable pirate ! thou salt-water thief t 
What foolish boldness brought thee to their mercies. 
Whom thou, in terms so bloody and so dear. 
Hast made thine enemies V* 



"SEA-PIRATES.*' 225 

Such a mischance befell the pirate fleet — 190 sail— in 
which the before-mentioned Alexander Bross was serving. 
**One day we perceived an European vessel, which we 
took for a merchant vessel, because it was painted of a 
brovm-grey, while men-of-war are generally black; we 
therefore made all sail for our prey. We soon, however, 
perceived that it was a man-of-war that we had to do 
with. The two first discharges from the brig damaged 
several prahus, and killed a great many pirates ; a second 
broadside sunk three prahus, with every soul that they 
contained. Plight became necessary," &c. 

There are no records of any censure passed upon the 
captain of the Meerminy for not catching his friends for 
trial, instead of sinking them. 

" Moving, the monarch of a peopled deck," in his 
steam-frigate, Auckland^ Captain Young of course would 
see nothing to " dread " in a pirate's prahu. Yet, when 
crossing to Sincapore in only a trading prahu, he seems 
to have appreciated the advantage of pirates not being 

in "season." 

But again, " No onel^ says the captain, " who had seen 
them, could have any great dread of them as sea-^rates!^ 
That also is possible. The pirate affects not dreadful 
looks. Such as he was to look at, /such as was his prahu 
in the earUest times, such are they now ; low, deckless, 
imostentatious, they are described by Thucydides to have 
been in Homer's days. 

But what does this officer mean by a " sea-pirate 1 " 

9 



826 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

and '^ the sense generally taken of that tenn bj English- 
men 1 " Is it a mere quibble upon the fact that '' the 
Dyaks in question" live, when out of season, up the rivers t 
And how far must they " venture out ^' —which he is 
aware they do— before they entitle themselves to " the 
term as understood by BnglishmenV — for they have 
been caught hundreds of miles from their rivers by sea ; 
at Slaku, at Sambas, at Pontiana, at Celebes. 

Let us, however, finally ask some Englishman how he 
understands the term : and, by way of a change from 
Mr. Hume's " concluding " and " opining " captains, 
suppose we ask Sir Stephen Lushington. 

There are two points laid down with equal clearness by 
that eminent judge. 

The first is one to which I directed, by anticipation. 
Captain Darnell's attention. It is — that a pirate, to be a 
pirate, need not attack any particular ^/Kfz^. 

The second is — ^that he may be a real "sea-pirate,'' 
under various circumstances. 

" It weighs less than nothing with me," observes this 
high authority, " to say that they were incapable of dis- 
tinguishing the British flag, and that if they had known it 
they would not have attacked it : because, if they were 
prepared and ready to commence an attack on any other 
persons^ it shows that they were of a piratical character. 
* * * It can make no difference whether they were 
inhabitants of that or any other island. Nor is it to be 
supposed that the name of pirate does not attach to persofis 



LIEUT. HOSKEN. 227 

on shore^ but merely to persons at sea, who must have some 
residence on shore. * * * In these seas (the Bomean) 
there is every species of distinction to be found. There 
are persons who cany on the business of pirates, and 
whose sole occupation is piracy; there are others who 
resort to it only at particular periods ; and there are 
persons who, only at certain opportunities, show a dis- 
regard of all rights, and avail themselves of circumstances 
to commit piracy. Every one of these cases must depend 
on its own merits, and on the locality where the trans- 
action took place." 

I would just remark, in taking leave of Captain Young, 
that, while he never heard at Labuan of the Serebas 
pirates, Mr. Hume's next witness admits that " the 
expedition against them was long talked of there ; '^ and 
my friend, Lieutenant Hosken R.N., whose word at all 
times is a guarantee for the truth, attests that there was 
no more common topic at Labuan, than the outrages of 
the Serebas pirates. 

From the two double-barrelled captains of the Indian 
Navy, whose " evidence '' is little worth the tricks it cost 
to manufacture it, we come to 

4. " A communication from a gentleman twenty-eight 
years resident at Sincapore.'' 

" William Henry Miles," is now, and has been for some 
years, this gentleman's name. Seven years — not twenty- 
eight — he says that he has lived at Sincapore : but this is 
an immaterial point. Two years at Labuan. The first 

92 



228 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAQO. 

light that wa8 thrown upon his communication in the 
House of Commons exposed it as a kind of forgery. It 
was " cooked/* — ^and so badly, that none could swallow it 

Mr. Miles, however, if he did not serve up the dish — ; 
for it is garnished with scholarship above his mark, — ^yet 
found the ingredients for the cook, and he must be con- 
sidered accordingly : but the letter is long and would be 
tedious here. 

Mr. Miles's qualification to give ''information on this 
subject ** (Serebas piracy) is, that he had worked a coal- 
mine at Labuan. 

By way of introduction to Captain Farquhar's " piratical 
expedition,'' he says he " will oflfer some remarks on the 
Malays from Pontiana to Maludu Bay ;'' that is, he will 
commence 300 miles on one side of the Serebas, and end 
500 miles on the other side. This promises a compre- 
hensive view. 

What came over him just here is not disclosed ; but 
not another word do we hear either of Pontiana^ or Maludu 
Bay, or of the intervening country. Mr. Miles simply 
narrates that while he worked the coal-mine at Labuan he 
kept his little household gods at Victoria Bay, where 
" nothing was ever stolen,'' not even an old pair of 

hand-cuflFs, nor a boxing-glove. The Malays were ver)' 
honest ; very civil to Mrs. W. H. M. He would as soon 
trade on the Bomean as on the English coast. 

Mr. Miles next adds, as relevant to " this subject," that 
a young man named Burns lived with the Malays ihree 



GENTLEMAN MILES. 229 

months on the Bintoolu river, whence he was brought back 
to Labuan by Governor Brooke.* 

Such being the whole substance of Mr. Miles's commu- 
nication, his conclusion is, — that the Serebas people were 
massacred by Governor Brooke, " who wants to murder 
them into subjection to the Sarawak Government." 

Mr. Miles complacently ends, " There can be only one 
opinion about this with any one acquainted with Sir James 
Brooke/' 

And as to " the piracy question.'' Mr. William Henry 
Miles does not believe one iota about it, — a classical 
expression much used by Mr. Hume himself. 

Surely these two individuals reflect disgrace upon each 
other. Who can touch pitch and not be defiled ? What 
coidd Mr. Hume expect to gain by bringing forward this 
concoction of ignorance and malevolence ? What can his 
Labuan jackal gain by such an ill-judged re-introduction 
of him on his native soil ? Peter Lloyd and his early 
"misfortunes'' are brought afresh to light, when they 
might have remained hidden in the Labuan coal-mine, 
while his hands might have been supposed clean, except 
from soot. 

" A discreditable affair is it, from first to last," observed 
Mr. H. Drummond in the House of Commons ; and the 
gentlemen of England echoed him. 

That the dish we have just discussed had been, as 

* I maj as well mention here that Mr. BamB, who was an obscure adventurer, 
pasded himnelf off among the Rayans as the son of Sir James Brooke, and thereby 
obtained in marriage a daughter of one of the chiefs. The particulars of his 
murder by pirates of Maludu Bay, are given in Chapter zvii. 



230 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

Mr. Dnimmond said, " cooked " by an over-experienced 
artistCy will be evident if we taste the same animal, served 
up by that gentleman au naturel. The following is a 
genuine letter addressed by him to the Sultan of Brun6. 
It was amusingly exhibited to the House of Commons, — 
headed with a vignette view of the Horse Guards : — 

"My Dear Sultan, 

" Alth in London 1600 miles awhay from you I 
do not forget you and Borneo and when I come back 
to Singapore I shall come and see you I have told 
all my friends in London what nice old Grentleman 
you are and are much pleased with the account of 
Borneo and the plesent life the Malays lead the Queen 
had A little boy the other day I should not be surprized 
if it is not called The Sultan I must buy some 
little present in London for the Sultan Before I leeve 
Mrs Miles and all Her friends sends their Kind Com- 
plements to the Sultan tender my respects to Pengaren 
Molmean and Pengaren Maccootar and all the other 
Pengarens and nobles of Brunie. 

" Oping this will find you all well believe me 
" Dear Sultan yours Respectfully 

"William Henry Miles, 

" London, 2ith May, 1840. " Late Pbngaken Miles Labuan. 

" P.S. This is the Queens Birthday I drank your and 
Her very Good Health in A bumper and wished you 
might live A hundred years/' 



FIFTY-THREE MERCHANTS. 231 

" There is no slander in an allowed fool, though he do 
nothing but rail." So we may leave Pengaren Miles 
Labuan to his Spelling-book, and his admirers to the 
consideration of some sensible remarks by Mr. Drummond, 
which are very apphcable to his case. 

" There was, he knew, a mock patriotism which thought 
that it was always doing the pubUc a service by finding 
&ult with people in office, and particularly with those in 
distant settlements; whereas it was to official men in 
distant settlements that they ought to be more than 
ordinarily ready to extend their protection. The House 
should remember the many worthless adventurers who 
went out from this country to those settlements, for the 
purpose of repairing their broken fortunes and character, 
and with whom official men were necessarily thrown into 
contact ; and how any mark of just severity which might 
be measured out to those characters was sure to furnish 
abundant opportunity for slander.'^ 

Let us hasten on. 

5. " He," Mr. Hume, " would next call the attention of 
the House to a document signed by fiftt-three mer- 
chants of Sincapore." 

This document occupies a column of Hansard. It may 
be read in the Appendix. Fifty-three merchants ought 
to settle any question of doubt that ever arose within a 
merchant's province. Twelve merchants of London or 
Liverpool constitute such a jury as often deals with 
princely interests. If these fifty-three have failed to bear 



232 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

Mr. Hume into port, there mtist be something rotten in 
their argosies. 

*' A merchant," like " a pirate," must be defined. In 
England, the term bespeaks position, and respectability. 
Not so, necessarily, in the East. The old men at the 
comer of our streets, with whom ragged urchins lay out 
their lialfpence, might style themselves hot-potato and 
roasted^apple " merchants," at Sincapore. Anybody who 
does anything in the way of business, if he can but write 
his name, is a " merchant ; " and especially when an 
address is getting up by agitators of elastic conscience, 
content to procure an array of demonstrants numerous, 
if not select. 

" I do follow here in the chase not like a hoimd 
that hunts, but one that fills up the cry." — Both the 
constitution and the number of Mr. Hume's Sincapore 
pack calls this to mind. 

As regards, however, the real mercantile commimity of 
Sincapore, it is nowhere surpassed in respectability. To 
many of its members I am personally indebted for 
friendship and hospitality, which I have pleasure in 
acknowledging — 

" Many a courtesy 
That sought no recompense and met wUh none. 
But in the swell of heart with which it came, 
Have I experienc'd " 

at Sincapore ; and, simply from my own knowledge of 
them, I could have confidently denied that the address 
which Mr. Hume displays, is signed by many members 



WHAT THE MERCHANTS SAY. 233 

of what any one else would call the " mercantile " body 
of Sincapore ; hut to this day he continues so to style 
them, and to boast of them as a conclusive band. We must 
therefore hear what they have to say, so far as this docu- 
ment advances anything which is not already replied to. 

Its distinguishing feature is unscrupulousness. It is 
evidently Mr. Hume's great gun — kept for the last — " Up 
merchants, and at 'em." And they do rush incontinently 
both at the Rajah and myself. Disagreeing on one point 
with their employer, these gentlemen assign to me the 
honour of having first made known to the world these 
Serebas and Sakan^an pirates. They had heard of the 
Lanuns, the Sooloos, the Balaninis; but never of the 
Serebas and Sakarrans, "until the invasion of their 
country by Captain the Hon. H. Keppel, in H.M.S. Dido; 
a measure commented on by many at the time as 
unjustifiable." 

For myself— /of course can only reply to this as Captain 
Hastings presently does to Mr. Hume — " My conduct has 
been brought under the notice of my superiors, and by 
them approved of" Nor let it be thought that approval 
extends only to the manner of carrying out operations. 
The Judge of the Court of Admiralty has, up to this 
time, had to investigate and pronounce upon all cases of 
piracy ; and it was decreed by Sir Stephen Lushington, 
whose rule, " to decide every such case on its par- 
ticular merits," I have already cited — it was by him 
decreed that the Serebas and Sakarrans, chastised by the 



234 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

DidOy were as genuine pirates as the Lanuns^ the Sooloos, 
or the Balaninis. Where, unless m the free market of 
Sincapore, and for what purposes, do these putites buy 
their arms and ammunition \ — their muskets and their 
tons of gunpowder, which we found just in the state in 
which it had left the manufisu^tory at Dartford 1 

But these respectable people, by a blunder not un- 
common with their kind, go on to prove too much. They 
consider that they have not been got together to stick at 
trijQes. ^' Not one among us ever heard the captain of a 
merchant vessel, or the nakoda of a trading prahu 
mention having seen a Dyak pirate, although the novdty 
of such prahus must have attracted attention." 

I have abstained from cumbering these pages with hard 
Malay names and formal depositions, preferring to place 
evidence of that kind in an appendix. But I must here 
produce one sample of what might be had in any 
quantity. The fifty-three merchants who testify as above, 
and the nakoda who testifies as follows, alike send their 
evidence from Sincapore. 

A nakoda is a master or captain of a native-trading 
prahu. Nakoda DowHch loquitur : — " I have been six 
times to Sincapore for commercial purposes. I arrived 
here this morning from Oyak, three days' sail from 
Sarawak. My boat is of seventy-five tons burthen, 
with thirty-four men and three guns. The coast of 
Borneo is infested with pirates, and has been so for 
years. / have been chased hy pirates. They are princi- 



WHAT THE NAKODAS SAY. 235 

pally Lanijns and Dyaks. The Dyaks of Sakaeran are 
pirates, and commit ravages along the coast : the Dyaks 
of Sbrbbas are notorious pirates/* 

The above statement was taken, and that of another 
nakoda, to the same eflfect, by Colonel Butterworth, 
Governor of the Malacca Straits Settlements, for the 
information of the Indian Government. 

" In the absence/' he says, ** of any evidence from 
Captain Eeppel, regarding the piratical propensities of 
the chieftains he attacked, Sheriff Sahibe and Sheriff 
Mulah, I deemed it advisable to take the depositions of the 
nakodas of two veaseb from Borneo, now lying in 
the Sincapore roads. These will distinctly show that 
these chieftains are, and have long been the main insti- 
gators, and not unfrequently the principal actors, in the 
piratical cruelties and robberies committed between these 
settlements and Borneo." 

What becomes then of the fifty-three ^'merchants of 
Sincapore '* to whom all these things are strange 1 * 

The number of mercantile firms in Sincapore is about 
twenty-seven ; Mr. Hume stated it to be exactly so. 
" Out of twenty-seven houses," he says, " fourteen signed 
an address to Sir James Brooke, and thirteen did not." f 
The first number is correct ; the other is incorrect. 

* One example will show that collectors of Bignatures may go a little too far. 
Among those who never heard of Serebaa pirates is a '' master mariner, for three 
years in command of the /tiZia, belonging to Sir Jamee Brooke!** 

t In Hctnsard he is made to call this an address from " some place in Borneo/' 
Bat it most be a mistake of the reporter. In the " Times,'* it is Sincapore. 

This address may be found in the Appendix, and in the Parliamcntaiy Papers. 



236 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

The address from Sincapore to Sir James Brooke bears 
twenty-two ngnaturesy — ^being those of the representatives 
of EVERY MERCANTILE FIRM established at Sincapore escept, 
perhaps three, and it was not extended to the respectable 
class of natives. If I were not hastening to conclude this 
Chapter I would set it forth, as a most satifi&ctory and 
conclusive document ; — recognising, on such unquestion- 
able authority, the necessity which exists for suppressing 
Bomean piracy — the propriety of the measures adopted — 
the humanity and mildness which accompanied their 
carrying out. 

Sir James Brooke received an address of similar 
import from Batavia ; but " coming in at the last hour,'' 
says Mr. Hume, "it had the appearance of being 
prepared for the occasion ! " How then was Mr. Hume's 
prepared ? I believe that an analysis of the list of 
signatures would give three or four merchants (whose 
presence need not be here accounted for), and the 
remainder is made up of a heterogeneous crowd, of 
whom I may safely say that they are not what 
Mr. Hume would have his hearers suppose. Common 
sense goes with us as we compare these rival documents, 
certifying that the one is true and genuine, while the 
other reads like an incorporation of such hoaxes as 
humorous captains and nakodas would pass upon busy- 
bodies foraging for calumny. 

The letter which / received in 1843 from the Rajah 
Muda Hassim, will not here be out of place. It is 



MUDA HASSIM'S LETTER. 237 

mentioned in my "Expedition to Borneo/' with a reference 
to the ceremonious reception of a Letter of State. 

" This friendly epistle, having its source in a pure mind, 
comes from Rajah Muda Hassim, next in succession to the 
royal throne of the kingdom of Borneo, and who now 
holds his Court at the trading city of Sarawak, to our 
friend Henry Keppel, head Captain x)f the war-frigate 
belonging to Her Britannic Majesty, renowned throughout 
all countries, — who is valiant and discreet, and endowed 
with a mild and gentle nature. 

"This is to inform our friend that there are certain 
great pirates of Sebebas and SAELiBRAN in our neighbour- 
hood, seizing goods, and murdering people on the high 
seas. They have more than three hundred war-prahus, 
and extend their ravages even to Bangermassim. They 
take much plunder from vessels trading between Sincapore 
and the good people of our country. It would be a great 
service if our friend weuld adopt measures to put an end 
to these piratical outrages. We can present nothing 
better to our friend than a kris, such as it is.'' 

I did adopt the measures recorded in the above-named 
work ; measures honoured by the approbation of the 
Government — by the disapprobation of Mr. Hume — ^by 
the " comments '' of these memorialists of Sincapore, who 
cannot, 1 think, have studied what they signed. 

6. The last in Mr. Hume's array is my friend, the Hon. 
Captain Hastings, in connection with whose name he has 
made the most of a circumstance, which had no bearing 



238 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

whatever upon the matter m debate. Mr. Hume had 
" addressed some inquiries to this gallant officer, accom- 
panied with an intimation that he was about to move for 
inquiry into Sir James Brooke^s conduct, on the 21st July, 
1849. He asks Captain Hastings, as we gather from his 
reply, why he had refiised compUance with Sir James 
Brooke's request, •"on the occasion referred to in the 
enclosed." These allusions are obscure, and seem to have 
been intentionally left so, to mystify those who might not 
be aware of certain facts : Captain Hastings replies that 
"his superiors having approved of his conduct^ he is 
precluded from oflfering Mr. Hume any statement of the 
matter." 

We have no date given us of the " occasion referred 
to ; " but the date of his own inquiry is carefully given, 
February 14, 1851, — of course eighteen months later than 
Captain Farquhar's action. Mr. Hume's comment is 
this. " If Captain Hastings, being called upon to assist 
Sir James Brooke against these pirates — ^for this is the fad 
referred to — ^and refusing to do so, was approved of by 
his superiors, why did they also approve the conduct of 
Captain FarqiAar in rendering aid to Sir James Brooke?" 
The argument sounds better than many of Mr. Hume's, 
and I have met with those who gave it weight ; until a 
slight explanation followed which was not Hkely to 
come out in the debate, and would be too late tiie day 
after, as to any eflFect on members' opinions iJien. What 
is this explanation ? Merely, that the occasion on which 



CAPTAIN HASTINGS. 239 

Captain Hastings refused to assist Sir James Brooke 
against a fleet of pirates, far from being the same occasion 
on which Captain Farquhar did assist him ;— was>e years 
previous to it I and Mr. Hume must have learned from 
my " Expedition to Borneo," the reason which constrained 
Captain Hastings to decline this operation — ^his dis- 
appointment at being so constrained — and the fact that / 
very shortly after, not being under similar difficulty, did 
attack the very pirates whom he was forced to leave, and 
had the honour of being approved of by my superiors ; — 
and they were the same individuals who approved of my 
gallant friend's refusal I say that Mr. Hume must have 
learned this from my " Expedition to Borneo ; '' because, 
if he have truly " given great attention to this subject," 
he cannot have been deterred by any defects of style, 
from seeking information in a work which was the first 
that appeared on Bomean subjects, and which abounds in 
stubborn &cts on piracy, such as even / was qualified to 
record. He will have read in that work, vol ii. p. 81, 
a letter from Sir James Brooke to myself, dated 
26th May, 1844. 

It states that H. M. S. Harlequin, commanded by 
Captain Hastings — had lately appeared off the coast, just 
as the notorious pirate Seriff Sahib had collected, for one 
of their harmless regattas, a fleet of 200 Dyak boats and 
fifteen or twenty armed Malay prahus ; *^ and,^^ adds the 
Bajah, ^'we might have had them all.'' In the next 
page, Mr. Hume will have read, ^' No one could have been 



240 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

more disappointed, or could have regretted more than my 
gallant firiend Captain Hastings, that his orders did not 
admit of any delay , or of his attacking that redoubtable 
pirate, Seriflf Sahib/' He was under orders for England. 

** Good reason must of force give way to better.'* 

But in less than three months after this, the Dido took 
up the work against these pirates, and her work was 
approved of Mr. Hume ignores these facts ; he brings five 
years forwarder one solitary circumstance, and thus dis- 
honours my honourable and gallant friend, by parading 
him as a witness on his side. Is it possible to suppose that 
Mr. Hume wished the facts to be understood sa they 
occurred % I think not : first, because he might easQy 
have stated them unmistakeably : secondly, because, so 
stated, they would have made an argument too ridiculous 
even for him. 

Captain Hastings, to his honour, immediately afler 
Mr. Hume's application to him, offered Sir James Brooke 
his best assistance ^^to resist the cruel and unjust 
persecution waging against him." 

" Peksbcution " has been the term applied to these pro- 
ceedings by some of the most distinguished personages in 
the land : and their opinion has its echo in the public 
voice. Whence then does it arise ? what motives actuate 
it ? what are the hidden springs that keep it going 1 
Who annually winds up this one night^s tediousness? 
Some who know Mr. Hume speak of him as a "good- 



IS MR. HUME "GOOD-NATURED.]" 241 

natured man." It may be so ; indiscriminate good-nature 

ft 

gets into many scrapes. No kinder suggestion, however, 
could be made for him than Mr. Drummond's — viz. that, 
although deprecating the idea of being the tool of others, 
he is their tool without suspecting it : but surely it would 
be equally good-natured to play at marbles with his 
grandchildren ; and his best friends would look on with 
greater pleasure, than while he exhibits himself as a 
foot-ball for the tZ?-natured and the mischievous to kick 
at decent people's heads. The honourable gentleman 
must, however, rather be classed, / think, with the 
agatho-caco-physical, — ^the good-and-evil-natured, both at 
once : amiable at Burnley hall, inclined to teaze at 
Westminster (nor hesitating occasionally — perhaps after 
a bad day's sport, to send a maUcious shot even from his 
country play-ground). 

This is the convenient moral Uberty advocated by 
Mr. Hume himself. Sir James Brooke is with him poU- 
tically a dehnquent, but privately, perhaps, a Christian 
gentleman. 

There w a " reform " gaining ground which repudiates 
tk£se niceties of an almost bygone time ; the urbanity 
of the urbane, and the honesty of the honest, and the 
Christianity of the Christian, are looked for now in as well 
as otU of those august assembUes, which affect to give a 
tone to all society, and in which, as a prelude to their 
cleliberations, the Speaker is announced to be '* at 
prayers," My friend Sir James Brooke, for one, declines 



242 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

any acquittal placed on this foundation. '^ I despise/^ 
he has lately told Mr. Hume, "the refinements of the 
politician who would separate the pubUc from the private 
character of a gentleman.'^ 

It will be well if Mr. Hume will show himself what he 
perhaps really is ; if he will shake oflF the appearance — 
unfortunate for an amiable man — of indulging in hostility 
which he personally disclaims. That Sir James Brooke 
has some few enemies is evident : his pubUc friends have 
plainly pointed out both men and motives ; even now 
Mr. Hume argues from documents confessedly suppUed 
by them. Patriotism should shun suspicion: the clean 
should not be found with the unclean, unless they would 
be thought to have lost their nobler natures, and to be 
content, though eagles born, to feed on carrion. 

I would fain adopt in Mr. Hume's behalf any stretch 
of charity,— any strain of construction — any metamor- 
phosis of words, which would free him from the 
imputation of employing his waning talents, and the 
evening of his days, in vitiating the truth that he may 
crush the good. His only escape is offered him by 
Mr. Drummond. If / be asked who pulls the wires for 
his anniversary exhibition in July, I will only say I am 
not called upon to grope for them ; nor should / think it 
necessary, since Mr. Hume disowns such influences, to 
force to the light any one, who, whatever may be his 
moral or his social errors, has the taste, the discretion, 
or the luck to walk in the darkness which becomes his 



SOURCES OF ARQUMENT. 243 

deeds. But if there be those who, while endeavouiing to 
undermine their betters' reputation, court notoriety, and 
force themselves on &me ; if any thrust slanderous 
opinions on official personages — stir up pseudo-philan- 
thropic societies — ^work upon pseudo-Christian meetings 
— and, after years of approbation, of admiration, of ful- 
someness, become suddenly philo-Serebas, philo-Sakarrans, 
philo-Dyaks, only because they would be miso-Brookes, — 
these people will assuredly, like owls coming out in the 
day-time, find some to hoot them ; some to remind them 
that it does disgust to see men glory in their shame. 

I will simply say, then, that I am of those who incline 
to believe in the "extenuating circumstance," as the French 
say, — poor at best — that Mr. Hume had not time to look 
into this case and to " get up " this argument for himself. 
We must not allow him to say that it "has occupied 
much of his attention." I believe, then, that he at first 
took up a case in which his, perhaps honest, sympathies 
were engaged by the falsehood and exaggeration of those 
who wished to stir him up : that he must have trusted to 
them for facts, and for proofs thereof; and that he was 
not aware, until too late, of the argumentative firauds and 
follies which he was doomed to utter. Brooke and Earl 
mis-quoted — four officers extemporised out of two (then 
only to talk double nonsense) — a ticket-of-leave 
"gentleman," from a Labuan coal-mine, with a letter 
cooked up for him, lest he should not devise untruths 
enough — ^a " merchants' " memorial with scarcely a 

R 2 



244 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

merchant's name — a simple naval occurrence twisted to a 
false date, and assigned to a suppositious cause — such is 
an imperfect summary of what the member for Montrose 
has been induced — or seduced — to lay before the British 
House of Commons, from which they were to consent that 
my friend should forego the felon's privilege, and submit 
to be annually put upon trial — not for his hfe, but for that 
dearer stake, his honour. 

And, to close with a practical question, — What would 
an inquiry — ^granted to-morrow — ^give us ? Inevitably 
one of two results equally unprofitable, to say the least. 
Either a budget of stale truths, already attested beyond 
rational doubt, some of which will be found in the 
Appendix ; or a consignment of newly-coined untruths, 
disgraceful alike to the consignors and to the consignee. 

When I consider that I have still one of my proposed 
points untouched, I feel that I must have heavily taxed 
my readers' patience. I shall endeavour to make the 
next Chapter brief and matter-of-fact ; and therein to 
mention as rarely as possible Mr. Hume. 

The honourable member for Montrose has been useful 
to England — very useftd in his day ; but not by traducing 
characters : nor is it a reproach to him that his value 
has been of that particular kind which makes the 
adjutant-bird sacred in Oriental cities, and the vulture 
valuable in the desert. His vocation has been to consume 
whatever savoured of corruption, — a thankless, an un- 
envied, but still, when pursued in moderation and 



FRIENDLY HINT FOR MR. HUME. 245 

sincerity, an eminently patriotic path. A rhume of his 
political career will, doubtless, some day, in its turn, flash 
from those brilliant biographical laboratories of the 
" Times,*' which so marvellously . extemporise a tributary 
torch to light the politician to his tomb. But against 
bis acknowledged political good qualities a discriminating 
pen must find one set-oflF — ^that he adopted early the 
motto of Coriolanus — 

" Let it be virtoooB to be obstinate.** 

and that, whereas the Roman was ashamed of it in a 
few days, the Saxon stuck to it through life. 

Whenever his career shall close, Mr. Hume will 
doubtless leave behind him a mass of materials for his 
biographer, which emboldens me to give him one word of 
parting counsel. Let his records testify that he was a 
Hercules in the Augean stable of state abuses ; that he 
was the spoiler of rotten boroughs ; the terror of 
sinecurists ; the economist of state gunpowder ; the save-all 
of green tape ; the unappeasable Cerberus of the public 
purse. But let him bury during his life — to make sure of 
it — every paper on Borneo for which he ever moved, and, 
on pain of disinheritance to his heir, let him command 
that they never be exhumed. Then may still some 
partial Plutarch find him some decent parallel, though 
perhaps not exactly the niche which he ambitioned, as the 
Solon or the Aristides of his age. / can only name the 
man with whom he will not be paralleled ; not with him 



246 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

to whom is already awarded, with unusual readiness at 
the hand of Fame, the meed of higher usefulness, of wider 
philanthropy, of purer principle, of nobler views for the 
amelioration of his kind. 

Already too, by force of the like general, unmistalceable 
award, that man's unconscientious calumniators, amongst 
whom I fcish not to count one British senator, have seen 
evaporate, as from a well-burnished mirror the cloudy 
spot, with which they dulled — scarcely for a moment — 
a character above their comprehension, and which can now 
be only tarnished by their praise. 



UNDUE SEVERITY. 247 



CHAPTER XIII. 



BBPLT TO MR. HUMl OOHOLUDKD— " UVDUB SKYBRITT DOCUMSirTAET RkrUTATIORt 

— OBITBEAL OBSBBYATIONS OH PIRAOT AID ITS BKMBDIBS. 

According to my plan, proposed in Chapter XL, I am 
now to show that Mr. Hume's second position is as 
untenable as his first. It is this : that — 

Supposing the Malays and Dyaks of Serebas and 
Sakarran to be really pirates, still, an unjustifiable loss 
of life was inflicted on them by the naval force which 
attacked then- fleet on the 21st July, 1849. This I 
should deny with equal confidence in any shape ; but my 
particular task is to refiite the charge. As it has pleased 
Mr. Hume to lay its supposed odium on Sir James 
Brooke — sometimes exclusively, sometimes with just that 
show of dividing his favours, which invites one to 
contradict him generally as well as particularly. 

" Sir James Brooke caused many hundred weak savages 
to be slaughtered, under the allegation that they were 
pirates. ♦ * * While Sir James Brooke slaughters 



248 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

Djaks in his own immediate neighbourhood in Borneo, 
he advocates the cause of religion, education, and bene- 
volence in England ; talks of establishing churches and 
school-houses, of planting missionaries and a bishop at 
Sarawak/' 

Supposing them to be pirates ! I think we may " con- 
clude" and "opine" that they are so, and pass to the 
ttwsettled question at once. If Mr. Hume is not yet 
convinced, and if he knows any one else who is not, I 
can only suggest, as a last resort, the &shionable pastime 
of a lecture on piracy. 

We have "Joumies from Comhill to Cairo," "Visits 
to the American Indians," " Walks about Jerusal^n," 
" Ascents of Mont Blanc," and why not " A Voyage up 
the Serebas," &c., with tableaux vivans to match ? and, 
by way of drawing a house, we might anticipate the 
" unprecedented attraction " of seeing Mr. Hume con- 
vinced, and hearing him confess that he has been 
mistaken. The illustrations' shall be in keeping : guns 
from the imarmed — poisoned arrows from the inoffensive 
— models of war-prahus used by peaceful traders — a Dyak 
skull (I know where there is one) taken from a Sakarran 
house. I shall be happy, in short, if he will bring his 
sceptical party to my cottage, — 

" Around the fire an eveiiing group to draw, 
And tell of aU I felt, and all I eaw" 

of PIRACY. 

But we must now get on. Supposing then, again, that 



MULTIPLICATION. 249 

some one admits enough to give us a second start — next 
comes the question of " undue severity/' 

For the senator who is also the general censor, 
Mr. Hume allows himself rather a wider margin than he 
allows his victims. What would he make of the following 
sentences, uttered by any other single mouth in one and 
the same debate? — Opening speech: "I protest against 
the commission of murders, fifteen hundred or two thomand 
at a time." Closing speech : " I am convinced of the 
accuracy of my information that five hundred persons 
have been destroyed as pirates," &c. Surely a man who 
had been thus informed, and believed the information to 
be accurate, need not, at starting on a grave and 
" blasting " charge, multiply the truth by four. 

But he improves even on this : " What shall be said, 
where men were suspected to be pirates, yet oflFered no 
resistance, while themselveSy their wives^ and children were 
destroyed?" 

Surely, the man who goes on thus must have £sdlen 
into the error, against which a greater man warns him, 
of " indulging some weakness in the management of his 
intellectual faculty, which is prejudicial to him in the 
search of truth." * * * « He, whose assent goes beyond 
his evidence, owes this excess of his adherence only to 
prejudice." * * * « Truth is all simple, all pure, will 
bear no mixture of anything else with it. It is rigid, and 
inflexible to any bye interests ; and so should the under- 
standing be, whose use and excellence lies in conforming 



260 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

itself to t</' * * * « j(g^ QJ.Q g^p^ ^ excuse themselyes^ 
and think they have reason to do so, if they have but a 
pretence that it is for God or a good cause — ^though it is, 
in eflfect, for themselves, their own persuasion, or party. 
But God requires not men to wrong or misuse their 
faculties for him ; nor to lie to others or themselves for 
his sake — which they purposely do who will not suflFer 
their understandings to have right conceptions of the 
things proposed to tliem, and designedly restrain them- 
selves from having just thoughts of everything, as far as 
they are concerned to inquire. And as for a good cause, 
that needs not such ill helps ; if it be good, truth will 
support it, and it has no need of fallacy or falsehood.'' 

These and other wise things are said by one John 
Locke, in his chapter on Bias. 

The exact number of pirates slain, as certified by the 
Judge, and on which head-money was decreed, is five 
hundred. By adding to these all others, who are not 
known to have reached their homes, the total amount is 
brought up to about eight hundred. 

Let me observe here, on the subject of head-money, 
which is now abolished, that I do not believe there is a 
a man in the Navy who would not prefer its aboUtion to 
the. imputation of taking a fellow-creature's life for money. 
While the law was in force, the payments for pirate 
service could be as honourably received as those for any 
other service ; but no professional man can regret that a 
ground of illiberal suspicion and reproach is taken out of 



HEAD-MONEY. 261 

the way. The abolition of head-money, however, had 
been determmed on, and the bill prepared, a year before 
Captain Farquhar's action. I may be allowed to refer to 
my " Expedition to Borneo " (vol. ii. p. 9), for one among 
the innumerable examples which exist of the manner in 
which British sailors treat their enemies, even when to 
leave a wound unstaunched might be worth twenty 
pounds. After being most wantonly attacked by two 
piratical prahus, and first making an example of them 
after another fashion, Lieutenant (now Commander) 
Wilmot Horton had every possible attention paid to the 
wounded, and restored them their boats ; upon which act 
of mercy there is, at page 78 of the same volume, a 
comment by Sir James Brooke, which I commend to 
Mr. Hume's attention. " I am siu^e,'* says he, " Lieutenant 
Horton acted rightly in sparing their Uves and property ; 
for, with these occasional pirates, a severe lesson, followed 
by that degree of conciliation and pardon which shall best 
ensure a correction of their vices, is far wiser and 
preferable to a course of undistinguishing severity." 

Here is enough to show what was the principle which 
my fiiend had in view, and of which he never lost sight 
in deaUng with piracy. From this point, I purpose to set 
in order certain known &cts and official documents, which 
will tell a simple history for themselves, and decide, I 
anticipate, the question at issue, whether as aflTecting Sir 
James Brooke, or any naval officer concerned therein. I 
idiall still have occasionally to direct special attention to 



262 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

the part taken by Sir James, in order more clearly to 
show that only a wilful blindness to the truth could select 
him for the odium, which Mr. Hume would fix upon 
operations not only necessary but merciful. " That these 
operations had become necessary/' says Sir James Brooke, 
in a despatch to Lord Palmerston, " is a matter of regret ; 
and it is to be regretted that, in consequence, an unavoid- 
able loss of life occurred. The inevitable results of 
warfare, savage or civiUsed, are in theory to be deplored ; 
but there is no reason to doubt that the active measures 

ft 

pursued, saved many innocent lives, and that in point of 
true humanity, it was far preferable to attack the people of 
Serebas than to allow them to continue their career of 
indiscriminate slaughter.** 

No reasonable person wiQ question the soundness of 
such a conclusion generally, fi*om such premises : and the 
premises have been proved in this particular case. 

And now, if the history is to tell itself, it must be 
slightly retrospective : I will, however, only go back to the 
year 1824. 

By a treaty signed in that year — twenty-eight years ago 
— between Great Britain and Holland, the sovereigns of 
the respective countries engage themselves to concur 
effectuaUy in repressing pu-acy in the Eastern Seas — the 
evil having then long had a most baneful effect on 
commerce. That the said Sovereigns never did concm: 
effectually to crush a confessed scourge is manifest. It 
would be foreign to my purpose to examine the complaints 



TREATIES. 253 

of the Netherlands Government on this head. A perusal 
of De Groot's report inclines one to think that there is 
on the part of that government a sensitive jealousy of 
heing assisted, even in such an object, which may 
have rendered it difficult "eflFectually to concur with 
them/' 

In 1847 — that is, after allowing piracy a ftirther lease 
of the Indian Archipelago for twenty-three years — 
the before-mentioned treaty being all that time waste- 
paper, but still existing — in 1847, I say, a treaty of 
friendship and commerce was signed between Her 
Britannic Majesty and the Sultan of Borneo, by the ninth 
article of which these Sovereigns unequivocally and 
solemnly ** engage to use every means in their power for 
the suppression of piracy within the seas, straits, and bivers 
subject to their respective control and influence/' By the 
tenth article of this treaty the Island of Labuan is ceded 
to Her Majesty for commercial purposes, including, of 
course, protection to commerce. 

This treaty was sought, and this settlement was 
determined on, in compliance with urgent representa- 
tions, as to the necessity of some such an establishment 
as "a terror to pirates,'* by the Liverpool, Glasgow, 
Manchester, East India and other great Commercial 
Chambers or Associations. 

In 1847 Sir James Brooke was appointed Governor of 
Labuan and Consul-General and Commissioner to the 
Native and Independent Chiefs of the Indian Archipelago. 



264 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

What is the meaning of this magnificent title ? It ifl 
explained by a despatch from Lord Palmerston to His 
Excellency the said Consul-Greneral, &c. &c., bearing date 
the 23rd February, 1848, thus : — 

" Your previous communications with this office will 
have already made you aware, that the object of Her 
Majesty's Government, in conferring upon you the 
appointment which you hold, as regards the relations of 
Great Britain with the native and independent chie& of 
Borneo, is to a£ford to British commerce that support and 
protection which, though needed in all foreign countries^ 
is peculiarly required in the Indian SeaSy in consequence 
of the prevalence of piracy." 

Thus we arrive at a point of time, at which we see Sir 
James Brooke selected by the British Grovernment — 
obvious considerations presenting him as the fittest person 
— ^to assist, as Her Majesty's representative, in giving 
e£fect to old treaties long neglected, and to new treaties 
concluded specially for the suppression of piracy. He is 
in that respect the servant of his Sovereign and of his 
country, with the simple duty imposed on him of obedience 
to his instructions, and he is instructed to put doum piracy 
in the Indian sea^. 

And now our attention is directed to another class of 
Her Majesty's servants, entirely independent of this Consul 
and Commissioner, — ^viz., the Naval service, and, as its 
moving spring, the " Commander-in-chief in the East 
Indies and aeaa adjaxjent." 



THE COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF. 256 

Amongst his instructions is the following : — 

" You will employ the force imder your orders to the 
utmost in chscking pibaot, as well in the Malayan Sea as 
on the coast of China : but you will much rather endeavour 
to check piracy among the islands of the Archipelago by 
a good understanding, and by enforcing the observance of 
treaties with the native chie&, than by encouraging hostile 
operations, and expeditions of a coercive character/^ 

The particular officer on whom was imposed the duty 
of obedience to these instructions in the spring and 
summer of 1849, was Sir Francis CoUier. 

These instructions would involve ihefoUomng duty, as 
connected with the subject we are discussing. 

In the event of Sir James Brooke failing to secure for 
British commerce " support and protection from piracy," 
by diplomatic and peaceable influences with the Bomean 
chiefs, then — it being still his duty to secure it — he must 
do it by force ; and for that force he is to look to the 
naval Commander-in-chief in the Indian Seas. 

On such an application being made to that officer, it 
became his duty, according to his instructions, first to 
satisfy himself that every proper efibrt had been made to 
effect the desired end ; and then, from the moment of his 
feeling so satisfied, to ^' employ the force under his 
command to the utmost in checking piract." 

Neither Sir Francis CoUier, nor any other commander- 
in-chief reading his instructions, and vigilant to perform 
his duty, wa& likely to be long ignorant of the piratical 



1 



256 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

character and deeds of the Serebas and Sakarran pirates 
on the coast of Borneo, considering that they had reached 
the pitch of daring now to be described, and that their 
effect on commerce and on all industrial pursuits had 
become such as is exhibited in the following passage. It 
is from the pen of Sir James Brooke himself. It would 
be as much waste of time to argue his title to be believed 
above Pengaren Miles Labuan, as it would be to compare 
their styles of writing. 

" The piratical character of the Serebas pirates," writes 
Her Majesty's anti-piratical Commissioner, " is so notorious 
that the native laughs when he hears that it is doubted. 
The slaughters perpetrated, the vessels captured, the 
towns pillaged, the men murdered^ the women and 
children reduced to slavery — the former to worse than 
slavery! — are proved and recorded facts. These, and 
such-like subjects are the common topics of conversation ; 
the latest depredation of the Serebas is mentioned as the 
last horrid murder is mentioned in London. The first 
inquiry of the trader on arriving in port, is, whether the 
Serebas are at sea. The fisherman dares not follow his 
vocation ; the land below the defences of each town lies 
uncultivated ; districts, fertile once, are denuded of their 
population ; trade destroyed ; the shores rendered imsafe ; 
rapine stalks abroad, and no community is strong enough 
to cope single-handed with the pirates. The eflfects on 
commerce may be imagined ; the unscrupulous seek profit, 
in spite of danger, by dealing with the plunderers, and 



SIR JAMES BROOKE'S DESPATCH. 257 

the produce brought to market is fit for a pirate to seU, 
and for a felon to purchase/' 

Such being the state of things on the return of Sir 
James Brooke to Sarawak from England, whither he 
had gone as a private individual scarcely known, and 
whence he returned with a world-wide celebrity, and — 
which is more to our purpose — ^with a commission to put 
down piracy, by peaceful means, if possible, but in 
any case to put it down, — such, I say, being the state of 
things, the next document which claims our attention 
is a letter addressed by him to Lord Palmerston, bearing 
date the 13th September, 1848. From this it will be seen 
that he had given immediate attention to his responsible 
duties, and had already, from the magnitude of the evil, 
and the impotence or insincerity of the Sultan of Borneo, 
become convinced that nothing but a strong arm would 
enable him to be faithful to the trust reposed in him, 
or to answer the expectations of the commercial com- 
munity, and of his Government. 

SIR JAMES BROOKE TO VISCOUNT PALMERSTON. 
« My Lord " Sarawak, Sejpt, IZth, 1848. 

" I beg to inform your Lordship of my arrival 
at this place in Her Majesty's ship Maander, and of my 
purpose of sending to the river Sadong, in order to 
inquire into and expose an intrigue which the Rajahs 
of Brun^ are carrying on, through a few of their 
adherents, with the piratical chiefe of the Serebas and 



258 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

Sakarran rivers, with whom they have been holding 
a friendly communication for the purpose of acquiring 
power amongst them. To this line of conduct during 
my absence, and to the length of time which has elapsed 
since their last punishment, may be attributed the 
increasing boldness of these pirates, who now venture, 
as formerly, to cruise in large fleets of their war prahus^ 
and commit fearful depredations on the more industrious 
and peaceflil classes, both by sea and on the coasts. 
I propose, when the proper season returns, to request 
the aid of the naval officer in command to punish the 
inhabitants of these rivers ; and, in the meantime, I have 
addressed letters to the chie& of the various places in 
their vicinity, to acquaint them that, if they encourage or 
hold communication with the pirates, they themselves will 
be accoiinted pirates, and punished. I am endeavouring 
to make a marked distinction between the piratical party 
and those who Uve by oppression and plimder, and the 
party which is faithful and sincere to the cause of good 
government ; and I entertain not the sUghtest doubt that^ 
by pursuing a course of stringent measures, we shall 
be enabled thoroughly to subdue and hmnble these people, 
and eradicate their propensity for piracy. I will not here 
trouble your Lordship with the detail of the poUcy to be 
pursued towards the Sultan and Rajahs of Brune ; but 
I may remark that, as good faith is not to be expected 
from so bad a government, I shall turn my attention 
solely to enforcing the due observance of the stipulations 



MR. HUME QUOTING AGAIN. 259 

of the treaty, more especially those articles which relate 
to the protection of commerce, and the suppression of 
piracy.'' 

It will not be here out of place to prove beyond 
dispute, upon other evidence than his own, the &ct that it 
was not Sir James Brooke's practice, nor his inclination, 
to decide precipitately on coercive measures : and this is 
independent of another consideration, always to be borne 
in mind, — ^that the Commander-in-Chief was practically 
interposed between any person in Sir James Brooke's 
position, and any precipitate resolution to which such a 
person might come ; and that his discretionary power to 
refuse co-operation was absolute. 

The predecessor of Sir Francis Collier on the same 
station was Sir Thomas Cochrane, from whose corres- 
pondence Mr. Hume quoted an isolated passage which he 
would persuade us is in opposition to the sentiments or 
practice of my friend. For instance : " The admiral 
^ informed ' Sir James Brooke that much more was to be 
done for the repression of piratical habits among the 
tribes of the Bomeau coast, by the spread of commerce 
and Christianity than by operations of a coercive nature/' 
This '^ information " sounds valuable ; but, separated from 
its context, it is really mere empty sound ; and it 
seems to be Mr. Hume's peculiar forte so to quote 
everybody as to make everything they may say defeat 
itseUl The great grievance is that neither Commerce nor 
Chrishakitt can be spread until Piract shall have 

8 2 



260 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

received a death-blow. Then is Commerce ready to come 
forth from her retreat, and to become gradually the means 
of permanently weanmg the pirate from his ways ; and 
then is Christianity ready to follow in her train : but 
Sir Thomas Cochrane could never mean to " inform '* any 
man in his senses that a disease was only to be cured by a 
remedy, which could only be brought into existence 
after the disease had been cured — King Alfred might 
as well have " informed '' his subjects that " more was to 
be done for the repression of wolves by the multiplication 
of sheep, and by making the wolves as tame as dogs, than 
by any operations of a decapitative nature.'* But Mr. 
Hume is generally unfortunate when he hangs on to 
a respectable authority : nobody of that stamp whom he 
quotes is found, on examination, really to go with him in 
this matter. Sir Thomas Cochrane, in a letter of which I 
shall give other portions according as they shall apply to 
the point imder discussion, enables us in the following 
passage to judge whether Sir James Brooke would pre- 
maturely ask a Commander-in-Chief for the means of 
resorting to coercive measures. Thus writes Sir Thomas 
Cochrane : — " With regard to the attack upon the Serebas 
and Sakarran pirates, I derive my persuasion that the 
means were only resorted to as of absolute necessity, 
from the fact that either upon my first or second visit 
to Sarawak, having heard that thosd people were dis- 
turbing that settlement as well as other parts of the coast, 
7 offered to place a force at Mr. Brooke^ s disposal^ for the 



OTHER DESPATCHES. 261 

purpose of bringing them to reason ; but, so far from 
hastily availing himself of my oflFer, he informed me that 
he was trying by peaceful and gentle means to lead them to 
a quiet and industrious life, and he hoped not to have 
occasion to resort to coercion; but in which it would 
appear the result had not responded to his anxious 
wishes/' 

Mr. Hume really must not cite respectable witnesses 
from the spot : their stubborn practical " information '' 
must capsize him. 

And now I may cite the next despatch of Her Majesty's 
Conmiissioner for the suppression of piracy to the Head of 
the Foreign Office. It bears date, Sarawak, 6th March, 
1849, and, after expressing a fear that " without some 
special arrangement made for the purpose, there will be 
Uttle or no chance of being able to carry into effect his 
Lordship's instructions of the 23rd February, 1848, the 
writer proceeds as follows : — " I am particularly anxious 
to call your Lordship's attention to the present state 
of piracy in the immediate vicinity of Sarawak. The 
Serebas and Sakarran pirates, emboldened by the length 
of time which has elapsed since the attack made upon them 
by Captain the Honourable Henry Keppel, have once 
more left their rivers in formidable force, and have, 
for two months past, devastated the coast for upwards of 
one himdred miles ; numerous prahus have been captured 
at sea, the boats plundered, and the crows murdered ; 
several villages have been attacked and taken, and. 



262 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

at the lowest computation, from 300 to 400 persons 
have been massacred by these ferocious marauders 
within this short period. It may afford your Lordship 
some idea of the formidable nature of their force when 
I state that only five days ago they were at sea with from 
100 to 130 prahus, most certamly averaging thirty-fiye 
men to each prahu.'* (This is the pu^tical expedition of 
which I have given some details in Chapter VIII.) 

Then follow some preventive suggestions, which it 
would be at present premature to quote ; after which Sir 
James Brooke concludes as follows : — " I need no longer 
dwell on this topic, as your Lordship will perceive the 
immediate and ultimate consequences of allowing a fierce 
horde of pirates to traverse the high seas, and to devastate 
the coasts. But I beg of your Lordship, in conclusion, to 
direct that such a naval force shall be employed as 
may enable us to strike a severe blow at the pirates, and 
subsequently to recommend such a vigorous system of 
superintendence, as may prevent the daily and yearly 
recurrence of such events as I have stated with deep 
regret.'^ 

On the same day Sir James Brooke addressed the 
Commander-in-Chief, in a letter of which the MtBander 
was the bearer. He received it in China about the 1st of 
April. It informed him that the pirates were at sea in 
force ; and after enumerating their atrocities, as in the 
despatch to the Foreign Office, it thus concludes : — '^ The 
entire coast is in alarm : trade is at an end : the very 



COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF'S POSITION, 263 

fishermen are flying to the interior for safety : I will not 
disguise from you that both Captain Keppel's character 
and my own are compromised in native opinion/* Ac. 

He states, in a subsequent despatch to Lord Pahnerston, 
that ^^ the necessity was so pressing at the time, and that 
it had become so urgent a duty to save the lives of 
innocent people, that he went out in native boats, until he 
was assisted by the steamer Nemesis^ when he surprised 
the people of Serebas through the Kaluka river, with the 
object of keeping them in check, till a larger force should 
arrive,'' &c. 

Thus the naval Commander-in-Chief received infor- 
nuUion — not orders — from Her Majesty's Consul at 
Labuan. He was his own judge of the necessity and 
propriety of taking any active measures in consequence of 
such information. He was his ovm judge as to the 
meaning and spirit of the instructions he had received 
from the Admiralty : and, therefore, were I to stop here^ 
it is evident that Sir James Brooke must stand exonerated 
from any share in responsibilities which could not possibly 
be divided, but which must be borne by some one 
individual. There can no blame attach to Sir James 
Brooke for stating facts to the Commander-in-Chief for 
his information. If he decided that the facts disclosed 
called for armed intervention, he was accountable for this 
decision : and, in turn, the officer who received from him 
orders to execute is accountable for all that was done in 
execution of these orders. Where then can Sir James 



264 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

Brooke's accusers bring him in? He waa not the 
Commander-in-Chief— he was not the executive officer : 
true, he joined that officer, and co-operated with him ; but 
let every one have his proper place, and there let each, in 
turn, be vindicated. 

I am sure the imprejudiced reader has gone with me 
thus far ; to admit — ^first, that the Commander-in-Chief 
did no more than his duty in despatching a man-of-war to 
the Bornean coast in the spring of 1849 : and next, that 
the responsibility of everything which was done by that 
ship, or under the orders of its commanding officer, rests 
primarily with A^^ professional superior, and, secondarily, 
with himself That officer was Commander Farquhar, of 
H.M.S. Albatross. I will now give the instructions 
received by him ; and if he did not exceied nor fall short 
of them, then is Commander Farquhar also free from 
blame. 

" You are required, and hereby directed to put to sea 
in Her Majesty's sloop Albatross^ under your command, 
and proceed to Labuan, and announce your arrival to His 
Excellency Sir James Brooke, Governor of that settlement ; 
and in the event of his being absent at Sarawak, you will 
proceed off that coast to communicate with* His Excellency. 

" In consequence of a representation made to me by Sir 
James Brooke, that it is intended to make an Attempt to 
DESTROY the Serebas and Sakarran pirates^ between the 
present time and the month of July next, you will (^ord 
His Ea^ceUencjf your assistance in carrying out this object, 



CAPTAIN FARQUHAR. 266 

in which, froill thef force you will find at your disposal, 
there is no doubt you will be successful, 

" You are at liberty to employ the Company's steam- 
vessels Semiramis and Nemesis, and Her Majesty's sur- 
veying-vessel Royalist in this service ; but you must take 
every precaution not to expose the men to needless 
danger, either from the climate or from the enemy. 

« DaJUd %1h day of April, 1849/' 

I need not recapitulate Captain Farquhar's proceedings 
in obedience to these orders. They are detailed by 
myself in Chapter IX. : the official reports of them have 
been laid before Parliament, and may be easily seen. 
I must not be supposed to have any feeling save regret 
at a sacrifice of human life ; but one thing is certain, — 
that if Captain Farquhar swerved at all from his orders, 
it was on the side of mercy ; for he was ordered to 
'' destroy the Serebas and Sakarran pirates '^ — '^ to assist in 
carrying out this object :*' and when 500 are slain or 
drowned, and all subsequent casualties swell the loss to 
800 out of nearly 4000 pirates, the officer in conmiand 
could scarcely report that he had acted t^p to his orders 
in '^destroying,'' though he well knew that a discretion 
80 exercised would not be questioned That this signal 
chastisement was inflicted on such a piratical force, with 
scarcely a casualty on his side, is sufficient proof that 
Commander Farquhar most fully and laudably acted up 
to his orders to " take every precaution not to expose the 



266 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

men to needless danger, either from the climate or from 
the enemy:*' nor is less credit due to him on this 
gromid, although ^the circumstance be immediately attri- 
butable to the panic which seized the enemy ; inasmuch 
as, if an officer makes such arrangements for receiving an, 
expected enemy, far outnumbering his own force, as to 
produce such a panic, the result in their total defeat 
without loss to himself is as much to his credit as any 
other operation of war can be. The practice of the great 
man whom the nation now mourns and honours was 
ever this, — ^to eflFect his purposes with the least possiHe 
sacrifice of his soldiers' lives ; nor will I waste a line upon 
those who make it a reproach to kill the viper without 
stinging oneself. 

Commander Farquhar received the approval of his 
superiors in the most acceptable shape, — ^promotion; to 
which was added the approval of the respective Heads 
of the Foreign and Colonial offices. 

« You wiU inform the Lords Commissioners of the 
Admiralty that Her Majesty's Grovemment entirely 
approve of this gallant and successful operation. 

" Viscount Palmbrston cannot but hope that the 
energetic measures of repression^ and the prudent arrange- 
ments for future prevention, which are detailed in Sir 
F. CoUier's despatch, will have the eflFect of aflTording to 
peaceful commerce in those quarters that security of 
which it has hitherto been deprived by the aggression of 
piratical fleets." 



THE « FEROCIOUS " RAJAH. 267 

*^ Lord Crbt has receiyed with much satisfaction Com- 
mander Farquhar's report of his successful operations 
against these pirates." 

I think I may say that this history has told itself; and 
that all concerned in the operations under discussion did 
no more than what *^ England always expects every man 
to do— his rftrfy/' 

But where was the ferocious Rajah? and how many 
poor Dyak men, Dyak women^ and Dyak children (for 
with such ferocities he is charged withal) did he really 
massacre? The very name of his prahu, SingJi Rajah 
(Lion King) proves him to be a blood-thirsty anthro- 
pophagus. — This is just all the proof that can be found of 
his murderous performances. That he was on the scene, 
that he concurred in the necessity of what was done, is 
freely admitted ; but it so happens for those who select 
him as the individual who especially "perpetrated the 
massacres^' (Mr. Hume's words) that the position which he 
had taken up in the Ealuka river, and from which he did 
not stir imtil the morning after the action, confined his 
murderous operations to the firing of one signal rocket. 
Let the reader turn to page 156, — " He was in ignorance 
of what took place, and passed the night in exciting, 
though confident suspense.'^ I may add that he was, on 
the day and night of the action, labouring under a severe 
attack of fever and ague, which would alone have inca- 
pacitated him from taking a prominent part. He was, I 
admit, equally responsible for anything done by his orders; 



268 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

but it must not be forgotten that^ besides the Sarawak 
Dyaks and Malays, whom he could in a great degree 
control, there accompanied the expedition volunteer 
auxiliaries from many other tribes, embittered against the 
pirates by continual wrongs. These it was not so easy 
completely to restrain ; and at their hands may haye been 
committed in hot blood a few such excesses as are either 
common to all savage, or are characteristic of Dyak, 
warfare : for these, if any such occurred, neither Sir 
James Brooke nor Captain Farquhar can be blamed. It 
is well known that the former was urged by these native 
^uxiUaries, on the morning after the action, to take such a 
position as would intercept all the fugitives, which might 
have been easily done ; but h© rejected the proposal, and 
not only stopped the pursuit as soon as possible, but 
oflFered a reward for eveiy prisoner taken alive. It is 
equally well known that all such prisoners were fed and 
well cared for, imtil released at a favourable opportunity ; 
that the Rajah afterwards received many tokens of grati- 
tude from those who had been captives; and that his 
humanity produced very beneficial effects upon the tribes 
chastised. Nor did this emanate from, or depend upon, 
any sudden impulse ; it was his principle^ laid down 
before setting out, — " Although piracy must be crushed at 
any cost, I am desirous of effecting its suppression at the 
smallest possible sacrifice of human hfe" * 

If, then, censure is to be passed upon any party, it 

* Letter to Lord PalmerBtoiiy 16th April, 1849. 



ARTICLES OF WAR. 269 

must commence much higher, — ^with the inventors of gun- 
powder, and grape, and rockets ; or at least, seriously, 
with the state department which gives out to the British 
navy these destructives, as munitions of war. Mr. Hume 
will, moreover, have to explain to Captain Farquhar, on 
the map which he has had lithographed, — ^and on which, 
to assist an impartial judgment^ he conspicuously lays 
down the " scene of the massacre," — he must, I say, shew 
Captain Farquhar in what direction, after allowing the 
pirates to escape, he could have himself escaped from a 
certain awkward document, the repeal of which I am not 
aware that Mr. Hume ever proposed,* and which is 
therefore in full force, under the common title, '^ Articles 
OF War, — "to be duly observed and put in execution," 
says the preamble, " as well in time of peace as in time 
of war." 

In the 13th clause of this Act we read as follows : — 
" Every person in the fleet, who, through cowardice, 
negUgence, or disaffection, shaU forbear to pursiie the chase 
of any enemy, pirate, or rebel, beaten or flying^ &c., shaU 
suffer death." 

Such is at this moment, except as to a modification of 
the punishment, the law of the land : Commander 
Farquhar had accordingly to choose between two courses ; 
one, that would stigmatise him as " cowardly, negUgent, 



* "An Act for Amending, &c, the Lawg relating to the goTemment of His 
Miyestj's ihips, yeaeelB, and forces by sea, passed in the twenty-second year of 
the reign of King George the Second." 



270 A VISIT TO THE INDUN ARCHIPELAGO. 

or disaffected,'' (for the law mil suppose some one of 
these motives), or a course of obedience to that law, 
though some individual senator might call it '^ massacre." 

The following observations of Lord Palmerston are an 
excellent comment on the above clause : — 

^^When you are engaged with an enemy, until that 
enemy surrenders, until he asks for quarter and puts 

himself in your power, you continue hostiUties ; and if 
you come up, you fire a broadside, whether with round 
shot or with grape ; but you continue your hostiUties 
against the enemy with whom you are contending until 
he, by an act of his own, indicates that he surrenders and 
places himself in your power, and claims from you that 
forbearance which the laws of war, or in this case, if you 
please, the laws of the land, would entitle him to claim at 
your hands." 

When I shall have added on this point the valuable 
testimony of Sir Thomas Cochrane, which entirely accords 
with all that I have seen myself, I think I may close my 
observations on the question of " undue severity.*' 

" With regard " says that distinguished officer, " to the 
loss of life that attended the late attacks upon this people, 
it is proper I should acquaint your Lordship that it is 
impossible to give, and hopeless to expect quarter, when 
in action, from this singular people. They have such an 
extraordinary contempt for Ufe, one would almost suppose 
they imagined that, on the loss of one, another would 
supply his place. A Malay, when irritated, would kreese 



SIR THOMAS COCHRANE'S EVIDENCE. 271 

a roomful of people, although under the certain know- 
ledge that he would immediately fall himself ; indeed, he 
would have no hesitation in concluding the tragedy by 
self-immolation. A fatal confidetice in their possessing 
the feehngs of ordinary men led to a catastrophe on board 
one of the ships under my command, by which some 
valuable lives were lost/' 

And these instructive observations on the peculiarities 
of the people are accompanied with the following 
peculiarities of their " murderer/' 

^' I found him one of the most mild, considerate and 
single-minded men I ever met with; and one who, in 
every conversation I had with him on the subject of 
Borneo, expressed himself in the terms of a father and 
friend to that people ; and I had ample opportunity of 
witnessing how entirely they responded to that feeling. 
It was singular and striking that on parts of the coast 
where I am certain that no European had been previously 
seen, ahnost the first word pronoimced by the people was 
the name of Brooke/' 

Such being the general character of the man, and his 
every act during the expedition in question having been 
in perfect keeping with that general character — I will just 
add to those already recorded in their proper place one 
other proof from parliamentary documents, and then 
Hr* Hume and myself shall part company. 

In a note addressed by Lord Palmerston to Sir James 
Brooke, bearing date the 10th March, 1850, his Lordship 



272 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

requests to be informed of " the circumstances which led 
to the offer of rewards for the capture of Dyak women 
and children/' The following is the reply of " murderer " 
Brooke : — 

"I have the honour to acquaint your Lordship that 
for several years past rewards have been given for aU 
prisoners made during the expeditions against the pirates, 
more especially in the case of women and children. The 
rewards alluded to in my despatch of the 1st of 
October, 1849, were paid to the captors of women and 
children taken during the expedition under Captain 
Farquhar, in order to prevent their putting captives to 
death, or reducing them to slavery. The women and 
children in question remained under my care for about 
two months, and were released on their relations coming 
to Sarawak to claim them. 

« This mode of dealing with pirates has always been 
found to have a beneficial effect, and is calculated to 
introduce a humane system of warfare." 

I know not how charges such as I have been dealing 
with can be more satisfactorily rebutted. Begin at which- 
ever end we may, we are led without one defective , step 
in the argument — that I can perceive— to the same 
conclusion. We see treaties entered into by Her 
Majesty^s Government, — fimctionaries instructed to carry 
them out, — ^the precise means of doing ^o pointed out to 
them, — alternatives suggested — the milder recommended, 
but the stronger enjoined rather than longer toleration 



CONCLUSIONS. 273 

of such an universal scourge as piracy. We see these 
last-mentioned means (the coercive) adopted only upon 
imperative necessity ; we see officers then performing 
their part merely as they were bound to do both by their 
special orders, and by the articles of war ; we see that, 
where they did exercise a discretion, it was on the side 
of mercy and forbearance, and to the sparing of many 
hundreds of lives, which they might easily and profitably 
have sacrified. What part then of the charge is there 
remaining unrebutted ? 

I have endeavoured, I hope successfully, to state this 
question, and to support my view of it, in a dispassionate 
and candid spirit, avoiding all flights of fancy, even, it may 
be, to an extreme of dulness. I can scarcely doubt my 
success so &r that, if any of my reiaders shall have halted 
between two opinions, simply from want of information 
as to factSy they will now be enabled to perceive that 
never — ^since Grovernments existed, with superiors to 
judge and to direct, with subordinates to obey and not 
to judge, — never has a more unreasonable attack been 
made upon men doing their duty, than Mr. Hume's 
attack on the honourable and gallant men, civil and 
military, whose duty it has been to act against the 
Serebas and Sakarran pirates. 

The particular individuals, whom the honourable member 
for Montrose, by holding them up as abettors of oppression 
and massacre, invites his country and the civiUsed world 
to execrate, are, as I have already observed. Admirals 



274 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

Cochrane and Collier ; Captains Farquhar and Wallage ; 
Sir James Brooke, and myself ; nor do I see how those 
noble Lords can escape who, as the heads of the Foreign 
and Colonial offices, approved of what was done against 
these pirates, and even gave instructions what should 
be done. 

This is also suggested by Mr. Hume himself. '' Sir 
James Brooke,'^ he says, ^^ has, in his extraordinary acts, 
been associated with parties far more influential in 
Parliament than himself; and he ought not to deceive 
himself in the belief that the attempt to screen these 
parties is an acquittal of him.'' It is a grave charge to 
bring against that high tribunal. Is the whole House 
of Commons degraded, whenever it cannot see with one 
man's eyes 1 Some single member mighi vote to screen 
a friend : some half-dozen — ^nay some m'neteen — might by 
possibility unite either to screen or to persecute : but 
when two hundred and thirty such persons, comprising the 
high-minded, the intellectual, the wise, and the good, are 
seen dividing against nineteen, we may be sure that such 
would no more screen a delinquent than they would 
countenance a persecutor. 

One disagreeable circumstance to Sir James Brooke, 
arising from their discussions, — ^perhaps the most so — is 
that, in defending him against charges from which he 
never shrunk, his friends have unavoidably to hold him 
up as an object of praise, from which he does shrink with 
the sensitiveness of real merit. Indeed I feel that 



SIR ROBERT I NOUS'S OPINION. 275 

apology is rather due to him than to my readers for the 
measure in which I have allowed mysdf an indulgence 
which, as a matter of feeling, is rather at his expense than 
for his gratification. I find myself however, in good 
company ; and I will conclude the more personal part of this 
Volume in the language of an individual never suspected, 
except by Mr. Hume, of giving an unconscientious vote, 
to " screen *' rfther a political or a moral reprobate. 

" The question at issue,*' says Sir Robert Inglis, " is 
the character of one of the ablest, and most gallant, and 
most humane men, who ever exercised authority in the 
name of England in any part of the world ; and I feel it 
to be an honour to express my strong feeling in favour of 
such a man. I repeat that there never has appeared in 
the dependencies of England, in a distant part of the 
globe, one who did more honour to the name of England 
than the Rajah of Sarawak, Sir James Brooke ; and I am 
sure any one might feel it a privilege to call himself a 
friend of that distinguished man ^ 

In the exercise of a right, which both this privilege and 
my professional experience seemed to confer on me, I 
have made this long digression, as an «^ humble elucidator 
of the truth, and vindicator of one whom only truth 
would satisfy. Should I have failed, I am not the less 
convinced that, though the advocate be weak, the cause 
is strong, and will prevail. I can with sincerity disclaim 
all intentional ofiensiveness. Riblic speeches, public 
letters, pubhc documents have been, according to my 

T 2 



276 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

perception and ability, fairly examined with reference to 
the merits of the case. Nothing new could be advanced ; 
but I am not aware that the old story has ever yet been 
put into this tangible and systematic shape. May it tend 
to confirm, and to universalise the confident verdict of 
that more distinguished defender of my friend and of the 
truth, Lord Palmbrston : — 

" Sir James Brooke retires from this investigation with 
an untarnished character, and with unblemished honour : 
and I am persuaded that he will continue to enjoy the 
esteem of his countrymen, as a man who, by braving 
difficulties, by facing dangers in distant diniates, and in 

* 

previously unknown lands, has done much to promote the 
commercial interests of his country, and to diffuse the 
light of civilisation in r^ons, which had been before in 
the darkness of barbarism.'' 



PIRACY IN GENERAL S77 



CHAPTER XIV. 



QVHSBAL RBMAKKB OH PIBAOT — ITS ORIOIH, B0UR0B8 OF OBOWTB, AMD DKVKLOPKMKIIT 

— MBAH8 OF SUPPRESSION AMD PBKVIMIIOM ^AMOIXMT AMD MODBRM PIBAOT 

SIMILAB IN ALL RESPECTS — ENaLAND's DUTY AS TO THE POLICE OF THE BA8TS&H 
SEAS — SARAWAK — ^MBW FACTS— OLD AEGUMBMT8. 

Up to this point, our observations on the subjects of 
piracy have been confined to the question of its existence 
in one or two particular rivers of Borneo, and to the 
inquiry whether the inhabitants of those rivers are 
different by nature, by education, or by habit, from all the 
other Malays and Dyaks in the world ; whether, in short, 
as it has been excellently asked by one able writer — and 
really the whole matter resolves itself into this — " whether 
the banks of the Serebas and Sakarran are a modem 
Arcadia, or a Moravian settlement, — ^whether their fleets 
are a mere Yacht Club, and their expeditions regattas." 
I have given my answer to this question ; and now, in 
my few additional remarks, I shall treat the subject more 
comprehensively^ as one of immeasurable interest to the 
world at large. This is no exaggeration, in an age which is 



278 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

one of political, social, commercial, and religious progress. 
It is indeed time that the navies of the Christian 
world should earnestly cooperate, shaking off indif- 
ference, sacrificing jealousies, until they shall have 
swept from every part of the highway of nations an 
evil, which is at once the impediment to civilisation and 
its reproach. 

In the Dutch Report, to which I have more than once 
referred, England is charged with "reiterating protes- 
tations that she will feithfully execute the treaty of 
London, but — ^by her * authorities at Sincapore ' — drawing 
back when it is proposed to act simultaneously.'^ However 
this may have been, every European nation must feel that 
this is not an era, at which the common school-book of 
geography should have nothing more to say of the vast 
expanse comprised in the Indian Archipelago, than that 
it is ^^ a world of piratical outrage and commercial peril.'' 
Neither is it an age in which the poet should find only a 
revolting paradox, where nature has been lavish of the 
subUme and beautiful — 



it 



Glide we through Magellan's Straits, 
Where two Oceans ope their 
What a spectacle awaits ! 



See-— the vast Pacific smiles 
Bound ten thousand little isles^ 
Hawnta ofviolenoe and tpUea ! 



»» 



Nor, lastly, is it an age, in which a mere casual visitor, 
like myself to our great oriental emporiiun, Sincapore, 
should be able to testify that he has many a time stood 



PIRACY ABOUT SINGAPORE. 279 

on the landing-place, and seen the wounded survivors 
of some trading-vesseFs crew borne away to the hospital, — 
miserable illustrations of pirate barbarity, and — ^we must 
therefore add— of civilised indiflFerence 1 How else could 
these things be 1 

"It is known,'' says the Dutch Resident at Riow — " the 
English themselves acknowledge it — ^that a vast number 
of these robbers find an asylum at Sincapore itself as well 
as in the neighbourhood. Sincapore and Riow are both 
surroimded by pirates, and the very scum of the neigh- 
bouring populations. At the same time piracies are more 
deplorable and more frequent at Sincapore than at Riow. 
The pirates of these latitudes obtain their powder and 
ball secretly from Sincapore, and the booty captured is 
taken there privately, and sold at low prices^ or exchanged 
for ammimition.'' 

If this be not a hbel on our respectable settlement, it is 
surely a grave charge against ourselves. We have 
however lately made a beginning, and with results highly 
promising. 

It is quite possible that severe examples may still 
occasionally be unavoidable, before so widely spread a. 
system can be wholly disorganised : but the history of 
piracy from the earliest ages, as well as the most recent 
experience, warrants the assurance that, vnth the exercise 
of unremitting vigilance, severity would very soon be 
unheard o^ from lack of subjects. 

I have alluded to the early history of piracy. A 



280 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

retrospective glance at it will not be without its use, as 
illustrating the following propositions : — 

1 . That piracy has always had a similar origin. 
, 2. That it has always grown and flourished under 
similar circumstances. 

3. That it has always required similar measures for its 
suppression ; and 

4. Similar appliances for its permanent preventionu 

Its origin has been oppqbtunity ; temptation in that 
shape, acting irresistibly on the natural depravity of man. 

It has grown and flourished — first by impunity, or 
toleration, due to its early iiisignificaaice : theu by acquir- 
ing a gradual, and at length a very tenacious hold upon the 
passions and the interests, not only of its original followers, 
but also of the very people who alone could check it . 

It has been suppressed — never, save by the most 

RIGOROUS MEASURSS. 

It has been permanently extinguished by a combination 
with severity of humanising and profitable pursuits, as 

SUBSTITUTES. 

1. Piracy, thus reviewed, beckons us back, even into the 
abyss of ages. 

" Giant yisions, crowding finst, 
Rise in the moonlight of the shadowy past, 
Where, through the mists of time, a silent throng. 
The ghosts of mighty empires glide along." 

Among , the ghosts . are those of mighty pirate 
EMPIRES, — for they were nothing less, — seriously embar- 
rassing, even for a time overawing, the Asiatic, the 



ORIGIN OF PIRACY. 281 

Grecian, and the Roman Goveimments. And yet, without 
doubt, every formidable horde, which could at length spoil 
a principality or starve a nation, sprung from a single 
knave or a handful of knaves, conceiving the idea, that to 
rob a boat might be as profitable as to rob a house. 
Nature moulds the thief ; opportunity and position make 
him a water-thief ; the success of one invites the associa- 
tion of others ; till at length the individual villain becomes 
the founder of a villanous community, of whom each 
encourages the other in the path of daring, of avarice, and 
of cruelty. 

" Then forth they rush as with the torrent*B sweep. 
And deeds are done which make the angels weep." 

In the intricacies of an archipelago especially, this 
has ever been the natural state of things. As surely as 
spiders abound where there are nooks and comers, so have 
pirates sprung up wherever there is a nest of islands, 
offering creeks and shallows, headlands, rocks, and reefe, 
—facilities, in short, for lurking, for surprise, for attack, 
for escape. The barbarous or semi-barbarous inhabitant 
of the Archipelago, bom and bred in this position, is bom 
and bred a thief. It is aa natural to him to consider any 
well-freighted, ill-protected trading-prahu his property, as 
it is to the fishing eagle above his head to sweep down 
upon the weaker but more hard-working bird, and swallow 
what he has not had the trouble of catching. 

But the primitive incentives to piracy are soon lost 
sight of in the pleasurable excitement which attaches to a 



282 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

piratical life ; and its primitiye limits soon disappear in the 
numbers who are attracted to it, for the sake of sharing in 
its chances and its perils. The pirate is a gambler in 
several ways : he goes out under obligations for his equip- 
ment to some petty Prince or Chief ; these obligations he 
can only procure the means of cancelling by desperate 
deeds. Speculation thus becomes his habit ; and his life 
becomes the reckless life of a desperado, — not to supply 
the necessities of legitimate poverty, but to feed artificial 
and self-created requirements. 

" At the end of the * monsoons,' *' says Captain EloS^ 
'' the pirates betake themselves to their haimts, and are 
occupied in dividing the spoils of the season. Then also 
they indemnify their avaricious accomplices for the 
advances they have made them, whether in stores or 
provisions. This period is to them a time of rejoicing ; 
the day is passed in cock-fighting, the night in smoking 
opium : so that at the end of two or three days this 
booty, obtained with so much trouble, is dissipated, and 
they have to plan new acts of piracy .'' 

2. Here, then, is exposed one great element of growth in 
this evil, and indeed the chief source of its prosperity, and 
the chief obstacle to its suppression. Hatched, as it were, 
through neglect in not destroying the egg, — imperceptibly 
attaining strength until it becomes formidable to slay,-— 
the reptile is at last taken in hand by the wise charmer, 
and turned to profit Piracy is mainly fostered by the 
priQces^ the nobles, the chiefs, the petty sovereigns, who 



CONNIVANCE OF CHIEFS, ETC. 283 

have a deep interest in its maintenance. This system of 
connivance, amounting to partnership with the marauder, 
seems to have long furnished a plausible ground for 
treaties between the Dutch Government, and the various 
Sultans and Princes of the Archipelago. Signs of a selfish 
commercial pohcy are generallj discernible in these 
documents : but on this we need not dwell If, however, 
we bear in mind the simple fact that these Sultans 
and Princes are themselves no better than pirates, we may 
appreciate the advantage, or rather perceive the absolute 
necessity, of having some one to deal with them, in the 
furtherance of our plans for the suppression of piracy, 
who shall understand their character : indeed, the qualifi- 
cations requisite for negociating with, and acquiring an 
influence over, treacherous chiefs and savage people are 
neither few nor of a common kind ; and hence I think it 
is easier to raise theoretical . objections against *' incom- 
patible offices,^^ *' conflicting duties,'' &c., than to find any 
other man half so well qualified as the present Com- 
missioner to represent the interests of humanity with the 
independent chiefe of Borneo. The personal qualifications 
and the peculiar position of Sir James Brooke, as Rajah of 
Sarawak, cannet be combined in any other person ; while 
they remarkably fit him for a sphere of action in which 
an influence beneficial to millions may be exercised. 

One — indeed the principal — task imposed upon the 
person in this position, is to shut up against the established , 
piratical communities of the Archipelago an iniquitous 



284 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

source of gain, and to divert their commerce into 
legitimate and peaceful channels. This alone is no light 
matter. 

Piracy iSy even in its mildest character, a most iniquitous 
source of gain ; but its abominations are aggravated, and 
have always been so, by the &ct that the most profitable 
portion of the pirate's traffic is a trade in slaves. It 
is needless to observe upon the cruelties and horrors 
thus superadded to mere spoliation. It is well known 
what a bad eminence was attained by ancient Crete 
and Cilicia in this revolting commerce. They veri- 
fied the remark before made, that it is opportunity 
and temptation which call into exercise this, as they do 
all other evil passions. By the conquests of Alexander 
a great opening was established for commercial intercourse 
between Greece and the countries westward on the one 
part, and Phoenicia and Egypt on the other : the positions 
of Crete and Cilicia, so favourable for intercepting 
merchant-vessels, converted gradually into pirates the 
entire coast-population of those countries ; independently 
of merchandise, the crews aJone of captured 'ships were 
very valuable for sale in the slave markets. But the 
Cilicians, having once tasted blood, w6re not long 
content with a precarious supply fi-om passing vessels : 
like their modem brethren, they would also land on any 
unprotected coast, and thence carry off men, women, and 
children, of whom the greater number foimd their way to 
Rome. For the supply of that luxiuious city, ten 



INCENTIVES— GAIN— HONOUR. 285 

thousand slaves were often bought and sold on the same 
day — seized and transported from their homes by pirates : 
and it is worth noticing, that the mistress of the world had 
at length to send forth her greatest generals to put doton 
a power which she had fostered for her own luxury, at the 
expense of principle and humanity. 

Thus does the ancient historian continually ^' point a 
moral, or adorn a tale'" for modem times. The Serebas 
and Sakarrans, the Lanuns, and other such communities of 
the present day, represent, as completely as di£ferences of 
position enable them to do, their predecessors of the 
iEgean ; and it has been hitherto our reproach that those 
latitudes in which England's should be the antagonistic 
influence, have furnished to these pirate-communities their 
« Golden Sea.'** 

But there has always been one other incentiye to piracy, 
which, with some characters, is as potent as gold itself ; 
and that is the honour and distinction to which it leads. 
Honour among thieves is honour still; and the daring 
and successful leader of a piratical attack upon a merchant- 
fleet, or a town worth pillaging, rises to an estimation 
among his fellows, which acts as a powerful stimulus 
to fresh adventures. " Because I have only a single ship,*' 
said one of this profession to Alexander, '^ you call me a 
pirate ; if I had a fleet I should be a hero.'' This was a 
good piece of sarcasm ; and it is certam at least that the 

* This was the name given by the pirates of the iEgean, to the sea between 
Crete and Gyrene, and between the Piraeus and the promontory of Malia — ^now 
Cape Malio-— on account of the rich prizes which they met with there. 



286 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

chiefi of piratical communities soon consider tiemseltes 
heroes, and are honoured as such amongst each other. 
While then this is the case, there "will always be a few 
audacious spirits, mainsprings of each distinct machine, — 
characters such as Byron and Cooper have invested with a 
false romance ; — ^and these are they on whom a moral, as 
well as an external, influence may be well ezerdsed : 
there is often something really noble in their natures, 
giving hope that the highest principles of action and 
of forbearance may be implanted in their minds ; that 
they may be brought not merely to " cease to do evil," 
but to "learn to do well," and may become the little 
leaven that shall leaven the whole lump for good. 

Such then are the elements of growth and prosperity^ 
which have been common to piracy in every age. 

3. And now for its remedies. The same disease 
requires the same medicine — just varied in its mode of 
administration, to suit the particular subject. 

" Piracy," says the historian of Greece, " familiar and 
flourishing in the iEgean sea^ from earUest history to the 
present day, patronised by sovereign power, by republics 
not less than by single tyrants, has never been completely 
suppressed^ unless in short periods of uncommon vigour and 
VIGILANCE, under the administration of the Roman power." 

We may pass over the failures, some total, some partial, 
which were experienced, even by the Roman arms, 
whenever half measures were resorted to against this 
formidable scourge. They defeated Mursena, they allowed 



POMPEY. 287 

only an expensive victory to Servilius ; they utterly 
discomfited Mark Antony, who, taking with him, through 
contempt of the enemy, more chains than arms, saw his 
own crews return to Crete in his own vessels, loaded 
as prisoners with his own chains. Metellus followed him, 
with but questionable success. 

The subjugation of piracy was reserved for Pompby ; 
and high time was it to demolish a monument of mis- 
placed tolerance, which had reached the pitch thus 
described by his biographer : — 

" The power of the pirates was arrived to such a height, 
that they had above a thousand good ships, well manned, 
and fiimished with skilful pilots. They affected magni- 
ficence, and their ships glittered with gold and silver ; 
their oars were silvered over ; and the curtains of the 
cabins were of purple. If they went on shore, it was to 
feast themselves in the most sumptuous and costly manner ; 
and these entertainments were accompanied with concerts 
of music ; their insolence and depredations had risen to 
an excess beyond all imagination. They had taken 
above four hundred cities, and had plundered thirteen of 
the most fiunous temples in the world of all their riches : 
but their principal employment and delight was to insult 
the Romans, and humble the pride of Italy.* They 



* When any one who was taken by them declared himself a Boman, they 
pretended to be frightened and to tremble ; and when they had a long while made 
him their sport, they placed a ladder on the side of their ship next the water, 
intimating to their prisoner that he was now at foil liberty to leave the vessel, and 
go whithersoever he pleased ; and upon his declining the favour, they threw him 
ft'^erboard. 



288 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

landed there, infested the main roads, and rifled the 
country-houses that were not far from the sea. But of 
all the mischiefis done by the pirates, that which occasioned 
most complaints at Rome was the scarcity and deamess of 
provisions, — a matter that always greatly affects the people. 
The multitude, therefore, were overjoyed at the proposal 
made by Gabinius to commission Pompey to clear the 
seas of those vermin.'^ 

These references to history supply the strongest of all 
arguments — ^namely, facts, to show, first — that on the same 
character of soil the same crop will always grow; and 
secondly, that it must be eradicated by the same means. 
I shall presently have occasion to quote from an able 
Oriental periodical, which, at the present day, specifies 
the enhanced cost of aU produce as an ai^ument for the 
suppression of piracy ; and doubtless when the evil shall 
be appreciated in modem times, aB the great Pompet 
appreciated it, we may hope to see his sequel paralleled, 
and the Indian sea disembarrassed, as was the iEgeaii. 
Forty days sufficed fi)r the great Roman to deliver from 
the monster piracy the three granaries of Rome, — Sicily, 
Sardinia, and the coasts of Africa ; so that what the poet 
elegantly boasts for him is no more than true. 

" Qai cum signa tuli toto fuIgentU ponto. 
Ante bis ezftctum quAm Cynthia conderet orbem, 
Omne fretam metuens pelagi pirata reliquit^ 
AnguBt&que domum terrurum in sede poposcit'* 

Ere the full orb of CrhTBiA's pallid lights 
Twice fihow'd the Ocean with our standards bright, 
The trembling pirate, scar'd from every sea, 
Crouch'd for one narrow hiding-place to me. 



PREVENTIVES. 289 

Twenty thousand prisoners attested the vigour of the 
Roman commander's measiu'es and their success. He 
pursued them home to every lurking place, gave them 
battle wherever they collected, besieged them wherever 
they took refuge : in short, his mission was to suppress, 
and he did not stop short of it. To those who take a real 
interest in the subject of these chapters, it will be manifest 
that these early records may be as usefully studied as any 
other parts of history. Many more such references 
might be made. Other European seas — the seas of the 
West Indies — of the East — of China — ^all might furnish 
illustrations of the position I have laid down, as to the 
origin, the source of growth, and of prosperity, and 
finally, the mode of suppressing piracy. We have just 
dwelt for a moment on the most remarkable example which 
exists : and the only attempts on our own part which have 
met with even a temporary success have been such as were, 
in a very small way, imitative of the uncompromising 
PoMPBY. But Mr. Hume would no doubt have moved for 
an inquiry into the massacre of the Cretans and Cilicians. 

4. I have but a word to say upon my remaining 
proposition, which was this — ^that, as piracy never has 
been and I think never will be put down, except by 
uncompromising decision, so its revival in the same 
localities can only be prevented by humanising and profit- 
able pursuits, as substitutes. 

Herein we have an advantage over the Roman subju- 
gator, inasmuch as Christianity, commerce, manu&cture, 



290 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

agriculture, art, science, furnish in those days reasons and 
suggestions such as had not yet dawned on Rome : noY* 
can I help pointing to Sarawak as an example and an 
encouragement to the philanthropist, who would re-mould 
and humanise the barbarian. Of what has been there 
effected I shall say more hereafter ; but even the Roman 
example does not entirely fail us here. " Pompey,"' says 
his biographer, "had in this expedition taken about 20,000 
prisoners, and the question was how to dispose of them. 
He could not entertain the thought of putting them to 
death ; and on the other hand, it was not safe to leave it 
in their power to renew the late mischiefs. He reflected 
that man is neither brutal nor unsociable ; that violence is 
a view contrary to his nature, and may be changed by a 
change of habitation and manner of living, as even the 
fiercest of wild beaats are, by such methods, made tame. 
He resolved therefore to remove his prisoners fiur firom the 
sea-coaat into the inland parts, and there disperse them. 
He settled many in certain cities of CiUcia, which were 
almost deserted ; and especially in Soli which had been 
lately ruined by Tigranes. It was afterwards called 
Pompeiopolis, from the name of its restorer. He likewise 
transplanted a considerable number of them into Achaia, 
and even into Italy." In short he placed them beyond 
temptation. I have in a preceding chapter referred to 
similar measures adopted by the Dutch in a few 
instances.* 

* CiBSAR cruc^ted the pirates he took, but without suppressing piracy. 



AMOKS. 291 

It does not enter into my present task to discuss what 
precise measures, as lasting preventives, might be most 
effectually adopted in the Eastern Archipelago, after 
piracy shall have been put down. Christianity and 
civilisation must, of course sooner or later, take the highest 
places : but whether they can always lead, or must some- 
times condescend to follow in the train of more immediately 
practical ancillaries, must depend on the characteristics of 
each country ; — for the national reformer must be a man 
of enlarged views, of personal character (in which respect 
at least I may be proud of my friend Sir James Brooke) — 
of judgment, patience, decision, courage, penetration ; I 
might have expressed it more briefly and better by saying 
that he must have the "wisdom which is from above." But 
I refrain from these speculations, though not uninteresting, 
as well as from offering any suggestions of detail as to 
the best working means of putting down the calamity of 
the Archipelago : that means comparatively simple and 
inexpensive would succeed I feel convinced. I will now 
lay before the reader some well digested remarks on 
this subject, which appeared not long since in an ably 
conducted Sincapore periodical. 

The primary subject • of its writer is the promotion of 
what are called " amoks," to an instance of which singular 
oriental rage Sir Thomas Cochrane seems to refer in his 
letter, quoted in the preceding chapter. "The Malay 
tendency to run amok, or a-muck, as we commonly call 
it, is never likely to leave him," argues the writer to whom 

u 2 



292 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

I refer, "so long as his practice is to go always armed : 
but until piracy be suppressed, he must go armed." The 
intelligent writer then proceeds to discuss this question 
in all its bearings. By way of a preliminary note I should 
have explained that the process of running amok, or 
a-muck, consists simply in a man's rushing about killing or 
wounding all within his reach, and at length frequently 

himself. 

****** 

" The first step, towards the prevention of amoks is the 
suppression, as fiir as is practicable, of robbery on land, and 
piracy at sea, to be followed by the abolition of the habit 
of private persons wearing weapons. While a Malay of 
Sincapore cannot set out on a voyage to the back of the 
island, to Johore or to Siak, without risk of being robbed 
and killed, he cannot go unarmed ; and until he ceases to 
carry arms, and learns to trust for protection and 
vengeance to the Government under which he lives, there 
can be no security that, if subjected to misfortune, insult, 
or oppression, he will not run amok. 

" The cost of the produce supplied by the Malays is so 
greatly enhanced by the necessity of protecting themselves 
on their voyages, that the employment of additional force 
by Government for the suppression of piracy, and the 
adopting of measures in concert with the native autho- 
rities, would soon shew a direct action on trade. Piracy 
raises the cost of all native produce brought to Sincapore ; 
it gives the bold a monopoly of carriage ; and obliges 



POLICE OF THE SEA. 293 

them to go in larger numbers, and with a more expensive 
equipment tha« would otherwise be necessary. 

" Experience has shewn that the Malay chiefs of the 
Peninsula are quite willing to co-operate in the abolition 
of piracy ; but they require to be constantly pushed, 
directed and encouraged. It is only by engaging all the 
powers in the western part of the Archipelago to act in 
concert that eflFectual measures can be taken. The 
pirates must be tracked by a combination of information 
and action, until they find they can no longer carry with 
them the priracy, which at present renders their visits more 
unexpected than a thunder-storm, and which prevents 
the chain of their operations from being detected. 

" What is wanted is that Government be made practically 
conversant with the nature and operation of the evil, and 
with the necessity for a combination of all the govern- 
ments exercising power in the Archipelago, to suppress this 
enormous crime. When they have made up their minds to 
this, there will be no diflSculty in finding agents to procure 
the combination, and to organise and direct its power. 

" It may be said that the position of Great Britain in 
the Archipelago is not such as to require or even admit 
of her taking a part in any work of such wide extent. 
We assert that her position is such as to place her under 
the most positive and solemn obligation to undertake this 
work, to enable her to give the most eflFectual co-operation 
in it, and to render that co-operation indispensable. The 
police of every sea belongs to those nations whose vessels 



294 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

traverse it, and who from their proximity to it have the 
power of organising a police. We may lay down the 
proposition still more broadly, by saying that every nation 
whose vessels use a sea are charged to aid in its police, in 
proportion to their means, and the advantages they derive 
from its use. The obligation to exertion increases with 
the means, and the means increase with proximity to the 
sea. It increases also with the advantages enjoyed, 
although this increase may be counterbalanced by the 
increase of difficulties arising from distance of position. 
Now, England derives more benefit from the use of the 
seas of the Archipelago than any other nation ; the 
proximity of her territories to the field of action is as 
great as those of Holland and Spain, her means of action 
far superior to those of the latter, and, in some respects, 
even to those of the former. Her obligations therefore to 
destroy the marauders who infest these seas are para- 
mount. Is she justified in waiting till she is satisfied that 
other powers have performed their duty ? On the 
contrary, that superiority in intelhgence, liberality, energy, 
and power, which Providence has conferred upon her, 
demand that in this work she shall take the lead ; not 
intermitting her strongest endeavours to excite her 
neighbours to do their duty, but going about her own in 
an earnest and determined manner, whether they prove 
zealous, lukewarm, or hostile. 

''But England has certain peculiar advantages for 
the work. The Malay Peninsula is entirely under her 



DECISION WITH THE CHIEFS. 295 

control. She has bound over the Dutch not to meddle 
with it. Now the peninsular side of the Straits of Malacca 
is the only navigable one, so that this exclusion has also 
given her the control of the Straits. There is not a Malay 
chief on either side of the long coast of the Peninsula, 
who would not comply with every reasonable request of 
the English Government, and much more ; and there is 
not one of their chie& who does not at present, directly or 
indirectly, contribute to the maintenance of the slave-trade 
and piracy. By cutting oflF this source of support, one 
considerable blow would be struck. Our position on the 
north of Borneo enables us to take still more decisive 
measures, in cutting oflf from Bornean and Soloo 
pirates the support and countenance of the Soloo 
chiefe. 

" The chiefs and communities, which are themselves 
piratical, must be compelled to be so no more ; that is to 
say, they must be visited pacifically, the determination 
of England communicated, and its reasons explained to 
them, her friendship and countenance oflfered, an obliga- 
tion taken to abandon piracy, — and that obligation must 
thenceforth be enforced, at whatever cost, and any 
severity that may be necessary. Subsequent carelessness 
and lenity would be cruelty to the piratical communities 
themselves. Piracy is doubtless less reprehensible morally 
in those who have never been taught to look upon it as a 
crime, but that is no reason why every severity necessary 
for its extirpation should not be resorted to. A tiger is 



296 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

even less reprehensible in this point of view than a pro- 
fessional pirate " to the manner bom.^ But we must do 
what is necessary to prevent injury to others from piratical 
habits, before we can indulge in compassion for the pirate. 
Our sympathy must be first with the victims and the 
endangered ; with the murdered before the murderer, the 
slave before the slave-dealer." 

These observations are worthy to close my chapter on 
Piracy. They should do so, but that I cannot resist 
adding a word — not my own either — for each of the two 
different classes, who have argued, and who may again 
be called upon to argue the question of severity — ^how far 
it is justifiable — advisable — salutary in effect. I have a few 
facts for the one class, and a few observations from no 
mean reasoner for the other. 

In a letter just received by me, from my friend Captain 
Brooke, nephew of Sir James, dated 25th August, 1852, 
is the following passage : — " I wish you were here to com- 
mand our expedition about to start for Serebas and Sakar- 
ran, though the object this time is peace, not war. The 
Contest is just come in from Labuan, and (Captain 
Spencer, I believe, intends accompanying us, and manning 
our gun-boats with blue-jackets ; this will be very pleasant, 
and will give us an opportunity of trying the rate of our 
new gun-boat, — the first attempt at European ship-build- 
ing in Sarawak. If you should come out again, you will 
find, I think, considerable changes in Borneo ; Sarawak is 
decidedly steadily advancing. The whole coast, from 



A FACT FROM SARAWAK. 297 

having been one incessant scene of bloodshed, is now as 
safe as the British Channel ; as an instance of which, let 
me tell you that about three weeks ago a schooner from 
Sincapore was capsised at night in a squall, about forty 
miles to seaward of Tanjong Sirik. Out of ninety-two 
passengers, only twelve, including five Europeans, escaped 
in a leaky boat, without arms, food, or even decent 
clothing. They made the shore ; the natives received 
them, gave them clothes and food, and fitted out a large 
boat to bring them comfortably to Sarawak : I need not 
tell you what their probable fate would have been, had 
they been thrown on this coast a few years ago. To the 
Rajah, to yourself, and Farquhar, these poor people owe 
their freedom, if not their lives." 

Here is a recent fact, accidentally introduced into a 
private letter, — of which this subject is by no means the 
burden. Mr. Hume or any one else may see it. It gives 
proof of present sincerity, and hope of stability in those 
better feelings which began to be evinced even immediately 
after Captain Farquhar's expedition. 

Of tl;ie piratical chiefs that came to Sarawak to make 
their submission to the Rajah, several had never before 

« 

seen Europeans. Friendly discussions took place, inter- 
esting stories and adventures were narrated. Thousands 
of natives, belonging to different powerful tribes and 
communities in Borneo, now look up to the Rajah of 
Sarawak as the arbitrator of their wrongs and the 
dispenser of justice. Before. this meeting, many tribes 



29a A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

that would have formed alliances with him dared not to 
do 80, on account of their more powerful neighbours. 
Now all appared to be of one opinion, and admitted the 
blessings that were hkely to accrue from trade and friendly 
intercourse ; and to mention one very remarkable change, — 
Peace Conferences between these very chiefs have since 
been held, on the very spot where the arrangements for 
the next piratical balla used to be discussed ! No instance 
of any ill-will for injuries inflicted or received was heard 
of. Kone appeared to deny the justness of the severe 
lesson that had been inflicted : and instead of betraying 
any desire for revenge, which even more civilised people 
might have harboured for a time at least, all seemed to 
have merged every other feeling in one of respect 
for the Rajah of Sarawak. Surely these facts justify 
the intermeddling, if such it is to be designated, 
which brought about so happy a revolution. They 
justify — nay, they enjoin the adoption of any further 
measures that shall ensure its continuance ; they even would 
justify at any time another like chastisement of any 
community which should relapse to its evil ways, and 
attempt to disturb the newly estabUshed reign of peace. 
But finally — in case there may be any reader still shaking 
his dubious head, " on principle '^ — I will call in aid a 
sound reasoner on principle, even my Lord Bacon, whose 
sentiments I have been surprised not to see referred to by 
any of the able debaters who have advocated the cause of 
truth and reason. 



NON-INTERVENTION— LORD BACON. 299 

As touching non-intervention, the following remarks 
appear to me striking and satisfactory : — 

" It is a great error, and a narrowness, or straitness of 
mind, if any man think that nations have nothing to do 
one with another, except there be either an union in 
sovereignty, or a conjunction in pacts or leagues. There 
are other bands of society and impUcit confederations, 
. . . . above all there is the supreme and indis- 
soluble consanguinity and society between men in general : * 
of which the heathen (whom the Apostle calls to witness) 
saith 'we are all his generation/ But much more we 
Christians, unto whom it is revealed in particularity that 
all men came from one lump of earth, and that two 
singular persons were the parents from whom all the 
generations of the world are descended, — we, I say, ought 
to acknowledge that no nations are wholly aliens and 
strangers the one to the other. Now if there be such a 
tacit league or confederation, sure it is not idle; it is 
against somewhat, or somebody : who should they be ? 
Is it against wild beasts ? or the elements of fire and 
water ? No — it is against such routs and shoals of people, 
as have utterly degenerated from the laws of nature ; as 
have in their very body, and frame of estate, a mon* 
strosity ; and may be truly accounted (according to the 
examples we have formerly recited) common enemies and 
grievances of mankind, or disgraces and reproaches to 

* ** Sweet are the links that bind us to our kind, 
Meek, but unyielding ; felt, but nndefin'd.** 



800 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

Jiuman nature. Such people all nations are interested, 
and ought to be resenting, to suppress.'' 

And as touching war against pirates, and who 
may urge it, the following passage is not easily 
answerable : — 

" It was never doubted, but a war upon pirates may be 
lawfully made by any nation, though not infested nor 
violated by them. Is it because they have not certas 
sedeSy or lares f In the piratical war which was achieved 
by Pompey the great, and was his truest and greatest 
glory ; the pirates had some cities, sundry ports, and a 
great part of the province of CiUcia ; and the pirates now 
being have a receptacle and mansion in Algiers. Beasts 
are not the less savage because they have dens. Is it 
because the danger hovers as a cloud, that a man cannot 
tell where it will fall, — and so it is every man s case ? 
The reason is good, but it is not all, nor that which is most 
alleged. For the true received reason is, that pirates are 
communes humani generis hastes ; whom all nations are to 
prosecute, not so much in the right of their own fears, as 
upon the band of human society. 

" For as there are formal and written leagues, respective 
to certain enemies ; so is there a natural and tacit con- 
federation amongst all men, against the common enemy 
of human society : so as there needs no intimation, nor 
denunciation of the war ; there needs no request from the 
nation grieved ; but all these formalities the law of nature 
supplies in the case of pirates. The same is the case of 



WAR ON PIRATES— LORD BACON. 301 

rorers by land ; such as yet are some cantons in Arabia, 
and some petty kings of the mountains, adjacent to straits 
and ways. Neither is it lawful only for the neighbour 
princes to destroy such pirates, or rovers, but if there 
were any nation never so far qffl that would make it an 
enterprize of merit and trtie glory (as the Romans that 
made a war for the liberty of GrsDcia from a distant and 
remote part), no doubt they might do it." 



END OF VOL. L 



LOSDON : 
BRADBURY *SD RVANfl, PRINTSBS, WHlTKKRIAKS. 



A VISIT 



TO THE 



INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO, 



IN H. M. SHIP MJIANDER 



WITH 



PORTIONS OP THE PRIVATE JOURNAL OF SIR JAMES BROOKE, K.C.R 



BY 



CAPT''. THE HON. HENRY KEPPEL, R.N. 



WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY OSWALD W. BRIERLEY. 



" Where things familUr eeue, and strange begin." 



IN TWO VOLUMES. 

VOL. n. 



LONDON : 

BICHABD BENTLEY, NEW BUBLINGTON STREET; 

l^tdilts^rt in ^^rtimarg to J^rt tSLajtst^* 

MDCCCLIII. 



loxdok: 
bradbubt ax d ktan8, pbtxter8, wnitsfriar?. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER XV. 

PAOR 

Mceamder Axriyes off Sarfiwak — Progressive Improvement of that Town and 
Province^Population — Church — School — Hospital — Public Security— 
Court of Justice — Mode of its Administration — Specimens of Cases 
Tried — General Results of Sir James Brooke's Government at SarSwak 1 



CHAPTER XVI. 

Piratical ChiefiB Tender Submission — Good Effects of the Expedition — Dyak 
Gratitude — ^Dyak Women — Amusing our Visitors — Screw Steamer 
Astonishes the Natives — Adieu to Sarfiwak — Arrival again at Sincapore 
— Sir Jamee Brooke's Journal — Immigration to Sarfiwak — Sambas — 
Struggles between the Dutch and Chinese— Opinions of Dyak Chiefe on 
Piracy — Death of Bunsie and Tujang — Policy of Mercy — ^Business on 
Hand — Description of a Wedding — Character of Bunsie, and of Tujang 
— Lundu — Progress of Sarfiwak — Effect of Improved Government on 
the Dyaks — Disposition and Capabilities of Dyaks Considered — The Orang 
Kaya Pamancha — Return to Kuching .47 



CHAPTER XVII. 

Stniawan-r- Dyaks Grateful — Bow — The Temple — Kunsi — The Pint- 
Contending Interests Settled — The Millanows — Aristocratic Thief — 
Delinquencies of Bandar Kassim of Sadong — Fishing — Superstition as 
to the Fish Puttin — Church at Sarfiwak — Daily Life there— Court — 



vi CONTENTS. 

PAOB 

Conferences with the Company — Suicide by a Chinaman — Sir Jamee 
Brooke Unwell, Decides on Visiting England — Sheriff Moksain — His 
Evil Deeds at Sakarran — Demand for European Government — ^Visits 
from Chiefs — ^Advice to them — European Qovemor Promised — ^Revenue 67 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

Curious Bird in Labuan Described — Dyaks of Kanowit and Eatibas— 
Mr. Bums — Particulars of his Murder — Letters from the Eayan ChieCs of 
Barram — The Kahau or Proboscis Monkey — Character and History of 
Kassim — Policy as to Sadong — Sakarran Politics — Sheriff Moksain — 
Undop Dyaks — ^Approaching Departure — Reflections — Universal Peace— 
Dyak Histories, Feuds — The Kayan Tribes, Cannibals— Dyaks of 
Jankang, also Cannibals 88 



CHAPTER XIX. 

Sir James Brooke Visits Labuan and Borneo — The Muruts — Macota's 
Delinquencies — Misgovemment of Borneo— Progress of Labuan — The 
Megapodius, its Nest, Ac — Politics of Brun^ — Character of Mumein — 
Sir Jamee Brooke Leaves Sar&wak — Secret Societies, or Hu^ — Measures 
Against them — Sails from Sincapore — Aden — ^The Desert — Suez — Cairo 
— Alexandria — Malta 116 



CHAPTER XX. 

Mcgander Sails for Sydney — Aiyer— Batavia Roads — American Liberality- 
Hospitalities at Batavia— Commerce of Java— Flymg Canoee— Bali Lakes 
— Volcanic Mountains — Comba — Lombok — Suttee — Flores — Pirates 
Again — Timor — ^Port Essington — Cobouigh Peninsula — Cannibalism — 
Habits of the Natives 185 



CHAPTER XXI. 

Native Encampments — ^Dances — ^Revenge — Punishment of Murder — ^Acci- 
dental Homicide— Personal and Social Habits— T^d Honey— Kangaroo 
Hunting— Wild Dogs— The Emu— Wild Fowl— Hunting— A Night in 
the Jungle— Flies— Geese— The Dugong— Native Cookery— Feuds- 
Disposal of Dead— Fire Signals— Native Guides— Alligators— White 
Ants— Essington Settlement — Cape York 165 



CONTENTS. vii 



CHAPTER XXII. 

PAOS 

Departure fcom Port Easington — Banda lalaiids — Spice lalaDcLs — Ceram — 
Dutch Policy — Barter with Natives— New Quinea — Its Commercial 
Attractions — Admiralty Islands — New Ireland — Port Carteret — New 
Britain—Sydney 193 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

Port Jackson — Dry Dock on Cockatoo Island — Visit the Interior with Sir 
Charles Fitzroy — Death of Captain Owen Stanley — Short Memoir of his 
Services — Extracts from his Private Journal — His Funeral . 218 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

Mast Defective — Proceed to Hobart Town — ^Home Comparisons — Kangaroo 
Hunting — Squatters* Mode of Life — Pack of Beagles — Hobart Town 
Races — Transportation Question — Sham-Fight with 99th Regiment — 
Departure from Hobart Town — Arrive at Sydney — Norfolk Island — 
Description — Philip and other Islands — Caves — Tides — Fish — Soil, 
Climate, and Produce — Poultry— Birds — Bees — Public Buildings — Ride 
over the Island— Qovemor^s Cook — Crossing the Bar — ^Boat Swamped — 
Summary Proceedings of an Early Gk>vemor — Conclusion . 235 



APPENDIX. 

I. — Letters and Documents Read or Referred to by Mr. Hume in Parliament 255 
Address from the Merchants of Sincapore to Sir James Brooke . . 262 
Letter from Mr. Vigors to Sir James Brooke 264 

II. — Legal Proo& of the Piratical Character of the Serebas, &c. . . 266 
III. — ^Mr. Hume's Latest Charges against Sir James Brooke .... 277 
IV.— Question of "Trading" 278 

v.— Productions of Norfolk Island 281 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



SANTOBONG ENTRANCE To face tbe Title. 

VOLCANIC MOUNTAIN, COMBA ISLAND . . . „ Page Ui 



NATIVE BIER— PORT ESSINQTON ....„„ 181 



BANDA „ „ 195 



A VISIT 



TO 



THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO, 



CHAPTER XV. 



MJUVDIB ARRrm OPP SARAWAK PROOBESSIYI IMPROTBMKHT OP THAT TOWN ANP 

PBOyniOB POPULATIOH OHUBOH SCHOOL — HOSPITAL PUBUO 8B0URITT — 

00t7BS OP JVSnOl — ^HODB OP ITS ADMIHISTBATIOIT — BPE0IMBH8 OP CASKS TRIKP 
OKKKKAL RBSULTS OP SIB JAMBS BROOKB's OOYBBHMKHT AT SARAWAK. 

I HAVE been holding forth now for several chapters, on 
the quarter-deck of the MaandeVy while she was on her 
way from Labuan to Sincapore. 

By the time she arrived off the Serebas, no traces were 
to be seen of the events which I have narrated. 

On the 31st of August, 1849, we anchored off the 
coast of Borneo ; and, sending a gig to Sarawak for 
information, we despatched the remaining boats, equipped 
for service, up the Batang Lupar, where they found the 
Royalist keeping guard at the mouth of the Linga, to 

VOL. n. B 



2 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

prevent any of the pirates getting up to the habitations 
of the Dyaks in that neighbourhood, during the absence of 
their warriors in attendance on the RajaL From the 
Royalist we heard what had taken place, and that the 
Linga fleet had passed up on their way home rejoicing. 

Captain Farquhar with the Rajah had been some 
days up the Rejang, and was daily expected back. 
Having suppUed the Rqt/alist with provisions, we 
proceeded on our way to Sincapore, not very well 
pleased at having arrived after the operations were over. 

Before leaving the coast, I may as well give a short 
account of the then state of things at Sarawak. 

I have already referred to the reasons which first 
induced Sir James Brooke to accept the Rajahship ; it 
has been seen how he entered upon the organisation of a 
refractory or distressed population of about 8000 souls, 
taking to his assistance the leading rebel chiefs. Saraw^ 
or " Kuching," as it was then called, was a village. By 
internal war the bonds of society had been loosened ; the 
Dyaks driven into the jungle. Government was at an 
end ; rapine and crime of all kinds were of daily 
occurrence ; — ^trade was Uterally extinct. 

After ten years, we find Sir James Brooke the most 
powerful Rajah in the Eastern Archipelago. The city of 
Sarawak can no longer be seen at one view ; it has 
extended for miles, and now occupies several reaches of 
the river. The population exceeds forty-five thousand. A 
fort, formidable from its commanding position, a Protestant 



SHOPS— CHURCH— SCHOOL. 3 

churchy and a Mahomedan mosque, are the principal 
objects which first attract the eye. As you advance up 
the rirer, after passing the suburbs containing the villa 
residences of the Europeans, you see the Court House, 
from which even-handed justice is dispensed without the 
interference of lawyers. 

Higher still you come to large sheds, where numerous 
prahus are building for — at last — ^trading piu|)oses only. 
Shops containing goods open to the inspection of the 
passer-by — a thing unknown in any other native state of 
the Archipelago — ^are here to be* seen. 

The missionary diurch of St. Thomas has since been 
consecrated by the Bishop of Calcutta, in 1850 ; and 
divine service is performed there twice a day, in English 
or Malay, by the missionaries — thanks to the exertions of 
that most indefiEitigable and zealous churchman, the Rev. 
Francis McDougall. This gentleman contrives, in addition 
to the active exercise of his sacred calling, to confer on the 
ccnnmunity the great benefit of his gratuitous services as a 
scientific surgeon. 

The strict morality of his conduct, added to the above 
claims on their respect and gratitude, has impressed the 
natives with a veneration for him Uttle inferior to that 
which they feel for the Rajah himself. 

Attached to the church is a school, to the inanage- 
ment of which Mrs. McDougall devotes her valuable 
time : it numbers already twenty-five Dyak and Chinese 
children. 

B 2 



4 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

I may here appropriately subjoin a letter written by the 
Bishop of Calcutta after his visit to Sarawak ; we are not 
answerable for a Bishop's idea of " unexampled heroism ;" 
nor for other little slips of enthusiasm : on all important 
points it gives a picture as true as it is interesting to the 
Christian world. It is dated January 24, 1851 : — 

"I have spent four days at Sarawak. I have conse- 
crated the church, according to the request of the diocesan, 
the Lord Bishop of London. I have inspected the state of 
the infant mission, and conferred fully with the inde&ti- 
gable and zealous chaplain and missionary, the Rev. F. 
McDougall. I have conversed also with the gentry, and 
have read the several works published on the events which 
have occurred in the last few years. It is my ftdl persua- 
sion that there is no mission on the face of the earth to be 
compared with that of Borneo. It has been thrown open 
to Christian enterprise almost by miracle. One of the 
darkest recesses of heathen ignorance, cruelty, and desola- 
tion, where piracy, and murder, and conflagration, and 
head - hunting, stalked abroad in open day, and the 
aboriginal inhabitants were in the sure way of being 
exterminated utterly, is now, so to speak, like the paradise 
of God. Deliverance has been proclaimed — security of 
person and property, equal rights, an enlightened and 
paternal distributive justice, the arts of life, an extending 
commerce, are already established at Sarawak, and spread- 
ing along the whole western coast of Borneo. The Chinese 
sea is free from marauders, and all Europe and America 



THE BISHOP'S LETTER. 5 

may pursue their peacefiil occupations from Singapore to 
Labuan, 700 miles. The Christian mission is begun, to 
sanctify and adorn all these secular blessings. Two things, 
quite unexampled, favour the design : — 1st. Englishmen 
have first become known to the oppressed Dyaks by a 
single English gentleman of benevolence, talent, and 
singular wisdom, and tact of government, who has received, 
as a token of gratitude from the native princes, a tract of 
land, about seventy miles by fifty y as his own territory. To 
the benefit of the inhabitants of it, this gentleman, who is 
now recognised as the Rajah of Sarawak, is devoting his 
time, his fortune, his zeal, his health, his body, and soul. 
The noble Government of our honoured and beloved 
Queen Victoria at home has come forward with her 
admirals and brave captains, to assist in reducing the 
pirates who infested the coast to silence and tranquillity, 
by deeds of almost unexampled heroism. The last engage- 
ment with the pirates^ about a year and a half since, when 
120 war boats, with 2,000 bandits, were intercepted in the 
very act of plundering and setting fire to villages, seizing 
native vessels, and murdering their crews, has humbled 
and alarmed the whole tribe, and the chiefe are sending 
messages to Sarawak^ promising to turn themselves to 
honest occupations. In the meantime, the population of 
the town has increased, in nine years, from 1,500 to 
12,000 souls, and, including the whole territory, to 30,000. 
The peace thus established, like that of the Roman empire 
at the Incarnation of our Lord, prepares for the Gospel, 



6 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

renders the diffusion of it practicable, and calls impera- 
tively on the Christian Church at home to seize witli 
eagerness the occasion, to which nothing parallel has 
perhaps ever occurred. The second peculiarly &vouraUe 
circumstance is that the poor Dyaks have no religion of 
their own, scarcely a notion of a d^ty, no Mahomedan 
obstinacy, no Hindoo castes, no priesthood, no written 
book — ^no Koran, no Veda ; and are led by a strong feeling 
of gratitude for a deliverance from a worse than Egyptian 
bondage, to place unbounded confidence in the truth and 
disinterestedness of the Rajah, and to solicit instruction in 
his religion, and to follow the habits of the white people. 

** In truth, when I stood on the hill on which the church 
is erected, and viewed the subjacent town stretched on the 
river s bank, and viewed the mission-house and school on 
the College Hill, which crowned the opposite shore, I could 
not but break out into thanksgiving to the Grod of all grace 
for His wonderful works ; and during the solemn service of 
consecration, I looked with amazement at the neat wooden 
edifice, with its early English arches, its nave, 70 feet by 
22, and 25 high, its side aisles, its handsome communion- 
plate placed on the holy table, and its Christian congrega- 
tion —forty-three (of whom eleven were Dyak and Chinese 
school children, seated in the aisle), and when I assisted in 
administering the blessed supper to nineteen communi- 
cants, besides the clergy, my heart was almost too full to 
proceed. Will England, then, fail to support the work thus 
prosperously begun ? Impossible ! it is not in the manners 



BISHOP OF CALCUTTA. 7 

of our Christian Britain to forget she was herself, 1400 
years ago, in as low a state of barbarism as the Dyaks, 
infested with European pirates, as they with AsicUics. No, 
she is well aware that what the Gk>spel has done for 
England it can do for Borneo. 

"D. CALCUTTA." 

I beUeve that every reader of good taste will thank me 
for reminding him of the following beautiful lines, so 
appHcable to the chief subject of the above letter, and to 
its venerable and eminently Christian writer : — 



u 



With fdrrow'd brow, and cheek serenely fair. 
The calm wind waad*ring o*er his ailyer hair. 
His arm uplifted, and his moisten'd eye 
Fix'd in deep rapture on the golden sky. 
Upon the shore, through many a billow driven, 
He kneels at last^ the Messenger of Heayen ! 
Long years, that rank the mighty with the weak. 
Have dimm'd the flush upon his fiided cheek. 
And many a dew, and many a noxious damp. 
The daily labour, and the nightly lamp. 
Have snatch'd away, for ever snatch'd from him. 
The liquid accent and the buoyant limb ; 
Yet still within him aspirations swell, 
Which time corrupts not, sorrow cannot quell : 
The changeless Zial, which on, from land to land. 
Speeds the fidnt foot, and nerves the wither'd hand. 
And the mild Chabitt, which, day by day, 
Weeps ev^ wound and ev^ stun away. 
Bears the young bud on ev'ry blighted stem. 
And longs to comfort, where she must condemn. 
With these, through storms, and bitterness, and wrath. 
In peace and pow'r he holds his onward path. 
Curbs the fierce soul, and sheathes the murd'rous steel, 
And calms the passions he hath ceas'd to feet 

" Yes ! he hath triumph'd f — while his lips relate 
The sacred story of his Saviour's fate. 
While to the search of that tumultuous horde 
He opens wide the EviaLAsriiro Woai>, 



8 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

And bids Uie soul drink deep of wisdom there. 
In fond devotion, and in fervent prayV— 
In speechless awe the wonder^tricken throng 
Check their rude feasting and their barbroas song : 
Around his steps the gathering myriads croird. 
The chief, the slave, the timid and the prond ; 
Of various features, and of various dress. 
Like their own forest-leaves, confiis'd and nnmberlefls. 
" Where shall your temples, where jfour worship be, 
Gods of the air, and Rulers of the sea 1 
In the glad dawning of a kinder lights 
Tour blind adorer quite your gloomy rite. 
And kneels in gladness on his native plain, 
A happier votary at a holier fime.** 

An hospital, erected at the Rajah's expense, has like* 
wise been established, under the superintendence of Mr. 
McDougall. 

In the jungle, a family of Malays are no longer under 
the necessity of following one another in a line, the last 
child of a string not being within hail of its leading 
parent ; but they may now walk and converse together 
along good roads, and may, if they please, communicate 
with diflFerent parts of the town otherwise than by boats. 
So strong, however, is the eflFect of habit, that I cannot 
recollect ever to have met, even along the excellent roads 
of Sincapore, a party of Malays who were not following 
one another in single file, as carefully as if threading their 
way along a narrow jungle path. 

The Court-house is not distinguished for its architec- 
tural beauty ; and the Court itself is held on the ground- 
floor of a building, the upper apartments of which are used 
as offices for the conduct of the public business. Nothing 
can be simpler than the ordinary proceedings of justice. 



THE COURT OF JUSTICE. 9 

Lounging into the Court during the progress of an 
interesting trial, I was struck at the same time by the 
absence of ceremony, and the great interest exhibited by 
the spectators. Opposite to the entrance was placed a 
round table, at the further part of which were seated, 
first the Rajah, and on either side of him the individuals 
native and European, six or eight in number, whom— for 
want of an exactly appropriate designation — I may call 
the judges ; and they may be said to constitute the jury 
likewise. In front of this table, seated on a mat-covered 
floor, was the prisoner ; and on one side was a witness 
giving his evidence. Around the whole Court were benches, 
on which Malays, Dyaks, Chinese, were seated indiscrimi- 
nately ; and those who could find no place on the raised 
seats were content to listen cross-legged on the floor, or to 
stand at the large open windows of the verandah sur- 
rounding the building. I waa honoured with a seat amongst 
the judges, but understood little or nothing of the pro- 
ceedings, which were conducted in the Malayan language. 

One judge or another examined witness after witness, 
each of whom was introduced by my old acquaintance 
Subu, who has been long a faithful follower of the Rajah, 
and now fills several places of minor importance about the 
Court, — among the rest that of public executioner, which, 
however, is almost a sinecure. 

The case for the prosecution having closed, the prisoner, 
an interesting-looking young Malay, was called upon for 
his defence. He told his story in a quiet but not inanimate 



10 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

way ; called his witnesses ; and one or two of his friends 
in the Court pleaded for him on particular points. When 
this had lasted nearly an hour, there was a consultation 
amongst the judges ; and my old friend Patingue Grapour 
(one of the judges) read a long argument to the Court. 
He waa followed by the Bandar (another judge) who 
made a few remarics ; then, after an observation or two 
from the other judges, the Rajah summed up, and pro- 
nounced the acquittal of the prisoner, whom I understood 
to have been tried for being found in another man's 
dwelling-house at night. The trial having been con- 
cluded, a general conversation ensued; and the Court 
broke up with the same absence of ceremony as had 
marked its assembling. 

The proceedings exhibited a quiet decorum, and owed 
none of their dignity to outward ostentation, either in 
respect of dress or otherwise. 

It may not be uninteresting to my readers, if I intro- 
duce a few cases extracted from the Court Records kept 
on the spot. 

STEALING BEE-HIVES. 
" Quop Dyaks v. Bonibak Dyaks'' 

" The Orang Eaya of the Quop complains of the Bombak 
Dyaks for stealing his bee-hives from the Tappang trees. 

" Judgment for the complainants. 

" The Bombak Dyaks to pay thirty cutties of. wax, or 
thirty passes of padi." 



SARAWAK COURT CASES. 11 

N.B. When about to take the wax from the trees, the 
Dyak, before climbing up, hghts a fire, which attracts the 
bees. The Dyak says the bees mistake the fire for gold, 
and come down to possess themselves of the treasure. 

BIGHT TO TKBES. 

" Dispute between the people of Samarahan and the Dyaks of 
Sibuyow about the right to certain Tappang Trees in 
Samarahan.'* 

'' It appears that the Dyaks of Sibuyow settled in the 
Samarahan River several generations ago ; and both 
parties have since been in the habit of taking the comb 
firom the trees. At first each party collected what they 
could, without jealousy or disputes ; but at length arose 
a competition between them, and each endeavoured to 
get the lion's share either by stealth or force. 

" During the prevalence of bad government^ neither party 
cared much for the Tappangs, as the parties who got the 
wax were obliged to give the greater part of it to Seriff 
Sahibe, and incurred great risk of being fined by him on 
suspicion of conceahnent. 

"The property having become valuable, the parties 
now appealed to the Court for a settlement of the question. 

"The people of Samarahan were doubtless originally 
proprietors of the trees ; but their ancestors, of fi:^e-will, 
gave the Sibuyows a settlement and a right, which have 
existed for probably a hundred years. It is confessed by 
both parties that the Sibuyows paid something for the 



12 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

settlement, but what rights were to be included in con- 
sideration of the payment cannot now be shown. 

"The decision was, that the Sibuyows shall be the 
possessors of the Tappang trees below the junction, thus 
giving the original inhabitants nearly two-thirds of the 
ground and of the trees/' 



EUNAWAY SLAVES. 

" Slaves belonging to the s&rail of MiUanao ran away to 

Lundu. Feb. 25th, 1846/'— 

" The slaves were sixteen jn number. 

Si Bugin, wife Si Elangote, and two children. 

Sajar, wife Rubin, and two children. 

Marali, wife Sili. 

Si Gajit, wife Rubin, and three children. 

Si Rajah woman. 

" These slaves were valued by the Court at 397 reals — 
the value paid by the Rajah, and the slaves declared free/' 

" The Court also gave notice, that in future, all slaves 
running away from any other country to Sarawak should 
be declared free/^ 



ANOTHER SLAVE QUESTION. 

'* Si Bainy a Kanowit woma/n, claimed as a slave by Summut, 

a Serebas man" 

" The Court said it was proved in evidence that Si Bain 
was made captive by the Serebas Dyaks in her youth ; 



SLAVERY CASE. 13 

that, after passing through several hands, some ten years 

ago she was sold to Summut, ran away from him, resided 

eight years as a free woman in Seriki, and thence of 

her own will removed to Sarawak with her husband. 

" It would be easy to decide this case, had it not a 
reference to the institution of slavery, which holds in 

native states. 

" The woman was a free woman by birth, captured by 
pirates, and wrongfiiUy reduced to slavery, and as a slave 
sold and re-sold. 

" It is clear that a person wrongfully reduced to the con- 
dition of a slave, can never be considered a slave, though 
by force detained in that state. What is originally wrong 
can never become right ; and a free person seized and sold 
into captivity by pirates, can under no circumstances what- 
ever be considered a slave. This woman is, therefore, free, 
and even under the worst institution of slavery could not 
be regarded as a slave ; but in her case, her supposed 
owner or claimant and herself both seek refrige and safety 
in Sarawak ; and such a claim cannot by any native law 
be raided by Summut, who at the time of the occur- 
rence was a pirate himself and living in a hostile 
community. 

"The Court, therefore decided Si Bain to be a free 
woman in the fullest sense; and Summut must bear 
his loss ; and consider himself a fortunate man in escaping 
the consequences of his former errors. 

" The Court considered all persons under its protection 



14 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

who sought refuge in Sarawak ; but it made no distinction 
between the escaped slave and the fugitive pirate. 

'^ Si Bain is now placed on the records as a free woman." 



" Wasahat, a Bttgis Nakodah {sea-captain) brings a charge 
against a/nother Bugis Nakodah, for running into debt and 
then cutting him doum with a sword, and nearly kilUng 
him, when asked for payment" 

" This occurred at Lingtang, in the Ealuka, three years 
ago, during the lifetime and government of Tuan Molana. 

" The Court said, — * It appears, as for as the Court had 
heard, that the Bugis Nakodah (name unknown) was 
indebted to Wasahat thirty reals and six sukus, for tobacco 
and other goods ; that being pressed for payment he, with 
another man named Sali, attacked the complainant 
Wasahat, and another Bugis named Mahomed. Sali 
killed Mahomed ; and the Bugis Nakodah cut down 
Wasahat, and gave him severe and dangerous wounds. 
Sali (a man of inferior condition) was put to death 
by Tuan Molana, for the murder of Mahomed, and 
the Nakodah Bugis was allowed to escape all punishment 
for his crime, and to evade the payment of his just debts. 

" * The Coiui; regretted that it possessed no jurisdiction 
in this case, as the crime was committed in a distant 
country, and under a diflFerent government ; and no 
Sarawak subject was in any way concerned. The Court 
regretted this want of jurisdiction ; for it was evident that 
a crime had been committed, and a great wrong done. 



ASSAULT CASE. 15 

Supposing the fact to be as stated, the Nakodah Bugis 
would have suffered death under the law of Sarawak ; for 
he was a du-ect party to the murder of Mahomed, and had 
severely wounded Wasahat in the same fray. The Court, 
in recording its opinion, was anxious to obtain such justice 
and reUef for the complainant as lay in its power ; and 
would, therefore, sunmion the Nakodah Bugis, and refer 
the case, with a strong representation, to the Native 
Grovemment of Ealuka.' ^' 



ASSAULT. 

" Si Lumma^ a woman^ v. the Wife of Usop^ and other womeuy 

for an assault" 

*' The circumstances of this case of an assault of an 
aggravated nature are simple and clear, and allowed 
by Si Usop the husband of the defendant^ in whose house 
it occurred. 

** The Court need not enter into the feelings of jealousy 
which gave rise to the assault. The assault itself is 
sufficient ; as Si Summa was decoyed into Usop's house, 
and there set upon by Usop's wife, and beaten and abused. 
The offence is not only against Si Sununa, but a breach of 
the peace ; and calculated to promote a serious riot. 
Had men interfered, weapons in all probability would have 
been drawn, and blood shed. 

" The Court must repeat on every occasion — ^must 
impress it on the mind of every one — ^that no private 



16 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

individual can take the law into his or her hands. Justice 
is daily administered ; and no angry passions find their 
way within these walls. The woman Si Summa has been 
misused, and the public peace broken ; therefore the 
defendants are condemned to pay the usual fine of thirty 
reals and three sukus, or, in common parlance^ thirty and 
three.'' 

DESTROYING TREES. 
** Nidor^ Tajou, and others, v. Mamat, Batak, and others" 

'^ The plaintifTs and defendant are relations in the third 
degree; and their common great-grandfather having 
planted some Durian trees on the bank of the river, they 
(the trees) have, in the loose maimer in which property 
descends, become the property of the planter's descendants, 
now amounting to about fifty persons. 

" The present case before the Court arises fi^m Nidor 
and Tajou having taken the unripe fruit firom the trees, 
and the defendants having, in consequence, cut down two 
of the trees from spite. 

" The Court, having gone at some length into the case, 
does not purpose to pass any sentence on the defendants, 
but prefers pointing out to the parties before it the evil 
consequences of this contention, and fixing for a similar 
offence a fine, in future, of thirty and three. 

" No good can result from the destruction of property ; 
and many ways might be suggested of sharing or dividing 
it ; but the offence consists in the serious breach of the 



FEUD. 17 

peace likely to ensue, from the passions which must be 
roused by parties taking the law into their own hands. 

" The Court, having fixed the future fine fi)r this oflFence, 
recommends a reconciUation to the parties now before it, 
and wishes the present decision to be made as public as 
possible, for the guidance of other persons holding property 
in common.^ 



FEUD. 
Puttong Dyaks v. Sow, Oombong, and other Dyak Tribes. 

" The Sow and other tribes made an incursion into the 
Puttong coimtry, and killed eighteen persons. 

" The case was not denied. 

" The Court now, for the first time, has heard that such 
a tribe ss Puttong existed. The defendants alone are sub- 
jects of Sarawak ; but the Court, overlooking many 
formalities (such for instance as the crime being committed 
without the jurisdiction of the Court), is bound to aflFord 
protection to the injured, and to punish the oflFenders. 
The Court in doing so, however, must make some allowance 
for the situation, customs, and feelings of the parties, who 
live in a state of society so entirely different from that of 
Europe. 

" A feud existed, it is true, between these tribes, and the 
tribe now complaining would retaliate against the offenders 
if they had power and opportunity. 

" The feud was of long standing ; the custom imrae- 



yoL. IL 



18 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

morial ; and therefore, in reason, the Court cannot judge 
a body of rude savages — ^men who have only killed their 
enemies — |n the same maimer as it would treat a number 
of English murderers. The moral standard by which the 
savage is to be judged, in such a case, is different from 
that to be applied to civiUsed and Christian men, and it is 
only by gradually making the distinctions between virtue 
and vice more apparent, by gradually introducing severe 
punishments for great crimes, now esteemed honoiu^ble, 
by gradually purifying the savage perception of morality, 
that barbarous and brutal customs can be abolished, and 
savage tribes be forced to look upwards to the power of a 
restraining government. 

" If the Court viewed this crime by the light of the 
Christian religion, or by the law of civilised Europe, it 
could entertain no doubt of the sentence to be deUvered ; 
but it does not regard this crime in so heinous a point of 
view, for the reasons just given, and will, therefore, content 
itself by inflicting a fine on the offenders, and warn them 
of the danger of following out their customs in defiance of 
the prohibition of Government. 

" Such a custom is not only extremely barbarous, but 
it is contrary to that obedience which they owe to the 
Government; it is opposed to the security of life and 
property, which has reigned for five years, and which must 
be maintained by all good men of all nations. 

" The Court, in fining the Dyaks of Sow concerned in 
the incursion, and their companions, must inflict a fine far 



MARRIAGE AND DIVORCE. 19 

higher than would be required by the customs of the 
Dyaks, and therefore decrees that they pay eleveu Tata- 
waks to the men of Puttong ; and the Court warns all the 
Dyaks (especially Nimok, who headed this party), that a 
recurrence of this oflFence — ^this great crime— will be in 
future treated with the utmost severity ; for it will be in 
direct defiance of the power of the Grovemment, and the 
decision of this Court. 

" For four years past this crime has been unknown, and 
it must be punished in future with such a stem justice as 
shall deter other men from its commission. No man can 
be aUowed to retaliate injury on his fellow-men ; no petty 
feuds can be allowed to lead to bloodshed and insecmity ; 
and all must alike appeal to this Court for the protection 
of person and of property, and for the punishment of 
guilt. 

" The Puttong Dyaks are to receive the fine, and return 
to their own country.'' 



MARRIAGE AND DIYORCE. 
Ayer Siti v. Matyhim. 

" The Court after a long investigation of the case, and 
appealing for evidence to the chiefe and the best-informed 
men, on the customs regarding marriage, decided as 
follows. 

" The Court has rarely to decide on questions of marriage 
or divorce, which are usually settled by the Datus, accord- 

o 2 



20 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

ing to the custom of the country and the precepts of the 
Koran. The case under consideration lias been brought 
here, because it has been f^und impossible to settle it in 
the usual manner, and because some ill-feeling has arisen in 
consequence. 

'* The case is clear. Maty him marries at Sirhassan, with 
the consent of Ayer Siti, the father of his wife, and the 
consent of Hadji Ahat, his own fiither ; he brings his young 
wife to Sarawak, lives with her for a year ; at the end of 
which time her father, Ayer Siti, carries her and her child 
to their own country. Matyhim, the husband, after a year 
or more of separation from his wife, refusing to reside at 
Sirhassan, and his wife not returning to Sarawak, re- 
pudiates her, in the customary manner of the coimtry, and 
of most countries in this part of the world. 

" The present case arises from the claim to one-third of 
Matyhim's (the defendant's) property, at the time of his 
marriage, which is stated to be the custom of Sarawak ; 
against which it is alleged, on the other side, that the 
uniform custom of Sirhassan is that a year's absence 
dissolves the marriage tie. The Court alludes to these 
customs ; but it cannot be guided by them, because there 
is no .evidence of what the property of Matyhim was at 
the time of his marriage, and because it is beyond dispute 
that the actual separation was on the wife's part. 

" The Court, therefore, decrees that Matyhim shall only 
pay the usual sum of thirty and three, which is established 
by custom in every case of divorce. 



MARRIAGE CASE. 21 

" The Court strongly points out to the Datus, the Imaum 
Belal, and the Abang Abangs of the country, the necessity 
of their consulting together, and fixing the laws of 
marriage and divorce. At the present moment they are 
not only coniused and uncertain, but unfitted to the state 
of society, as many respectable persons have this day 
stated. As men grow rich, they will not part with a third 
of their whole property on occasions of divorce. Let the 
laws on these subjects be made clear, and fully made 
public ; and the Court will then carry them' out, if there 
be a necessity to appeal to it again/^ 



MAERIAGE AND SLAVERY. 



Ijpa V. Hadji Svhudeen, 



"The Court having gone at great length into this 
case, decides that the woman Ipa and her two 
chUdren are free per8on8,-as free aa any other persons 
in the country. 

**' It appears without contradiction that this woman was 
unjustly sold (the Court passes over this circumstance, as 
having occurred many years ago) to Nakodah Jafier, whose 
concubine she became, and by whom she bore two 
children. Nakodah Jaffer, it further appears, 6wed a debt 
of seventy reals to Hamady Rajah ; and at his death, there 
being no property, this woman and her children were 



22 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

made over by Puti (the deceased's son by another woman), 
to the creditor, who sold them to the defendant Hadji 
Subudeen. 

" By every law of this coimtry, the woman and her 
children are free, in consequence of her having been the 
concubine of her master, and having borne children by 
him; and should the debt be a bond fide debt, and the 
relations of Nakodah Jaffer responsible for it, it must be 
equitably discharged. 

'^The woman and her children are pronounced free, 
and are at full Uberty/' 



KILLING PIGS. 
Incas V. Inche Mannan. 

" The Court having inquired into the above case, at 
length decided that Inche Mannan was greatly in fault for 
having killed the pigs of Incas. 

" It appeared that Incas had been Uving more than three 
years previous to Inche Mannan's arival at Pankalan 
Sant ; and on his wishing to make a farm and garden 
near the Dyak Campong, Incas tried to dissuade him, but 
in vain. The Dyak pigs found their way to the garden, 
and destroyed the sugar-canes, &c. ; Inche Mannan not 
having fenced it in. 

'" Had defendant been Uving there before complainant. 



STABBING. 23 

the case would have been different ; but^ as it was, and it 
being also the custom of the Dyaks to allow their pigs to 
run about at large, the Court decided the Inche Mannan 
should pay Incas the value of the pigs, or retiu'n them 
in kind. 



STABBING. 

The Cowrt v. Karim {a Javanese) for stabbing the Jemedar 

of the Fort, 

" The Court having heard the evidence, feels no hesita- 
tion in acquitting the prisoner, on the plea that, at the 
time the crime was committed, he was labouring under a 
temporary delirium, caused hj fever. 

" The only question is whether the man was a responsible 
creature at the period ; and as the evidence is clear that 
he was suffering from violent fever, and as the witnesses 
had remarked a change (or wildness) in the expression of 
his eyes, and as the most conclusive testimony is given 
that no cause existed for committing the crime, and no 
shadow of m-feeUng on the part of the prisoner to the 
wounded man — the Court absolves Earim ; but in doing so 
it must recommend more care in future, when similar cases 
occur ; for with a Malay, accustomed to wear arms and 
living usually in a disturbed state of society, his weapon is 
resorted to in delirium, in the same manner as an English- 
man would strike with his fist. 

" The Court however orders that Karim be sent to the 



24 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

place irom whence he recently arrived, not as a punishment 
for the offence, but as a precautionary measure/' 



THEFT. 

Wan Say, Seriff of Pontianak, and nephew of the Sultan 

of Pontianak. 

" It appeared in evidence that the accused had recently 
arrived from Sincapore, and had not paid his passage 
money. That while at the house of Inche Nairn, he 
subtracted a gold bracelet from among other ornaments 
belonging to Naim's wife. The bracelet was found on his 
person, and identified by its owner. The prisoner had 
offered to pledge it. The prisoner allowed that he had 
taken it, but said it was done in frin ; and he offered to 
pledge it also in fun. 

« The Court, m sentencmg the prisoner remarked on his 
high birth, and regetted that such a case should be brought 
before it. The higher the offender, the greater the shame ; 
but the shame was in the commission of crime, not in the 
discovery or trial. There were different degrees of guilt 
in theft, and likewise different degrees of punishment ; 
and the prisoner would suffer from shame and loss of 
character. 

" The Court therefore sentenced him to be confined, till 
an opportunity occurred of sending him back to the place 
from whence he came." 



INTRICATE SLAVE CASE. 25 



SLAVE CASE. 
Wan Mat v. Pangeran Jidat 

" For selling Wan Mat's slave and her children. 

"The right to Meliah and his five children was the 
point in dispute between the two parties. 

" After a lengthened hearing, it appeared that Meliah 
was the daughter of a slave, and married to Sidit, who 
was likewise stated to be a slave ; and by this marriage 
there were five children, all grown up. Sidit, it was 
shown in evidence, was originally a free man (being of 
Kaluka) and had been reduced to slavery under the 
following circumstances : — 

" The grandfether of the present Sultan of Brunfe, about 
thirty or thirty-five years ago, demanded a prahu of 
Pangeran Jidat ; but Hadji Marsalla, the person bringing 
the order, having nothing to pay for her, ordered (in the 
Sultan's name) the ministers of Kaluka to give four free 
men as slaves to Pangeran Jidat, as the price of the prahu. 

" Amongst these free men, thus reduced to slavery, was 
Sidit, who was married at the time to Meliah ; and ever 
since both he and his wife and family have been in the 
position of slaves with Pangeran Jidat.'' 



DECISION OP COURT. 

"The Court has listened with great attention to 
this intricate case^ and with a sincere desire to arrive 



26 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

at a right conclusion, and to do justice to both 
parties. 

" The Court must decide this case within certain limits ; 
as it is known that the Government of Sarawak, since the 
day it was established, has held as a principle that it is 
not competent for this Court to open cases which occurred 
in former years, nor to set right the wrongs committed by 
former Governments. Meliah, it is shown, has been a 
slave for. the last thirty or thirty-five years to Pangeran 
Jidat ; and this right of possession, so clearly proved, the 
Court cannot, on the principle laid down, infiringe. 

" The case of Sidit was difierent : it was allowed on all 
hands that he was a free man ; it was not clearly shown 
how he was made a slave ; and great was the guilt of 
those, according to the religion of the country and the 
sense of right in every man's bosom, who reduced a free 
man to the condition of a slave. 

" The Court, therefore, with some hesitation, but with a 
desire to do right, decides that Sidit is a free man. 

" There still remains to decide the future state of the 
five children ; and, according to custom, the ofFspring of a 
marriage between a free man and a slave woman should 
be half free and half slaves ; but — ^bearing this in mind, and 
leaning as the Court does to the side of freedom — ^the Court 
must decide against the claims of the childreiL The 
father is reduced to slavery, and, in fact, has been a slave 
for thirty or thirty-five years ; and the mother — to 
whomsoever she may have originally belonged — was 



CASE OF DEPOSIT. 27 

undoubtedly the slave of slaves, and the children have 
been brought up in the same manner and condition. 

" The Court therefore, regarding the original freedom of 
Sidit, declares him a free man ; but decides that Meliah 
and all her children by the imion with Sidit are slaves." 



DEPOSIT. 
Si Leh v. Inche Kassan. 

^Si Leh deposited 5^ amas of gold as a pledge, on 
borrowlBg three reals. 

^ One man and his wife declared there was no agreement 
for interest, nor penalty attached to the pledge ; the other 
man and his wife, that the gold was to be forfeited, if not 
redeemed within a month. 

" The Court observed that there was nothing to guide 
the decision ; and it should therefore decide as appeared 
most just to both parties. 

" The want of an agreement vitiated any claim to the 
forfeiture of the whole pledge ; but it was right that some- 
thmg should be paid for the convenience, and for the risk 
run by defendant of fire or robbery, whilst the property 
remained in his hands. It appeared, too, that Kassan had 
himself borrowed the money. 

" The Court, without going minutely into the matter, 
decreed that defendant should restore the gold, on 
receiving back the three reals and one real extra, for the 
use of the money and risk run. 



28 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

" Parties ought to be careful in cases of this sort to have 
a written agreement, or a verbal one before vritnesses;' 

It is possible that some of my readers may not find 
equal amusement with myself in the Court Records of 
Sarawak ; but none will deny that they disclose a very 
extraordinary achievement of individual energy, influence, 
and character. The particular cases given were selected 
by me at random from a large mass of similar entries, of 
which I copied such as were most legible. They are 
written both in the Malayan and the English languages. 
The Rajah pronounces judgment in the Malayan, and 
the proceedings and sentence are recorded in the 
English language. The circumstances under which 
this book has reached its present bulk, while they 
must engage the highest sympathies of the Christism and 
the philanthropist, ofier even to the statesman and the 
political economist no contemptible study of mankind. I 
am not anxious to set up Sir James Brooke as a wonderful 
hero: exaggerated pretensions on his behalf would be 
little in keeping with his character : but I may say that 
such are the characters which, in some respects most 
resemble, and in others surpass, the vaunted heroes of 
antiquity. Of them it is suggested by the historian of 
Greece, that while they were no more than men, they were 
men of a spirit and sentiment immeasurably above their 
generation ; which spirit and sentiment instigated them 
" to devote themselves to toil and danger, for the service 



SUMMARY OF RESULTS. 29 

of mankind, and for the acquisition of an honest fame : 
opposing oppression, and relieving the oppressed, wherever 
such were to be found ; and bearing the sword of universal 
justice, while Governments were yet too weak to wield it/* 

It by individuals appearing once an age in modem 
times — such as, I will say, a Raffles or a Brooke — ^those 
deeds of the classic giant be emulated with nobler weapons 
— ^with the sword of Wisdom, the sword of Intelligence, 
and, above all, the sword of the Spirit — ^is the hero of 
conquests thus achieved, less a hero? Not so, — even 
according to the above description : but I claim no par- 
ticular tide for such men. I state facts from which, if 
any have had their opinions imsettled by plausible mis- 
representations, they may for themselves accurately decide 
the appropriate title of my friend, and the appropriate 
titles of his accusers. 

I will conclude this Chapter, and this subject, vdth 
a brief, and therefore necessarily incomplete summary of 
the results of Sir James Brooke's policy and principles, as 
carried out since he became Rajah of Sarawak : and I do 
so, not so much to accumulate vindications of my friend, 
as to help to set the light of his example on a candlestick, 
for the encouragement of other Brookes that may be yet 
to come. 

The results to Christianity — to the cause of the 
Gospel, and thereby to the highest interests of mankind, 
may be sufficiently inferred from what I have said in an 
earlier part of this Chapter, from the unquestionable 



80 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

testimony of the Bishop of Calcutta : this, however, is 
now confirmed by a communication kindly made to me 
even while revising this printed sheet, by the Rev. F. 
McDougall. It touches also on general subjects, and 
shall come presently. 

The MORAL and social results will require little exp(>- 
sition, with those who shall have read my extracts from 
the Court Records, The sum is this — that a few years 
ago an Englishman landed on a corner of a vast Oriental 
continent, the greater part of which still is, as the whole 
then was, in a statQ of barbarism. Ths^t (by means 
which dlso are now misrepresented, but which a word or 
two of truth shall presently vindicate) he became the 
ruler of a province in which the only law was force : all 
questions were decided, all difficulties adjusted by the 
" Arm," or sword. 

" More feranun, 
ViribuB editior casdebat, at in grege tauras.** 

Disputes were all to brutal force refen^d, 

And man ruVd man, as bulls overrule the herd. 

Well ! within a few weeks of the stranger's " usurpa- 
tion" a code of laws is promulgated based on the best 
legal principles of the best governed country of the civi- 
lised world ; but adapted also to the state and character 
of a pecuhar people ; divested of jargon ; prepossessing 
by its simplicity and common sense. This code speaks 
for itself to an intelligent, though imtaught, race of native 
rulers ; they adopt it heartily ; they associate themselves 



SIR JAMES BROOKE'S GOVERNMENT. 31 

with their foreign benefactor in its administration ; they 
sacrifice to him the prejudices and the habits of genera- 
tions : mercy and justice, firmness and moderation, fix his 
authority in their affections, not their fears ; distant and 
strange tribes flock to him as the arbiter of their diffi- 
culties. What a source of influence is even thus acquired 
for the English name t 

I invite the reader to another impartial glance at the 
court records of Sarawak. Let him picture to himself this 
Englishman occupying his seat of justice, as I have before 
described him, surrounded by his native suitors confi- 
dently awaiting those decisions, which he delivers after a 
deferential consultation with their own native rulers, in a 
style which shows him a master of their language, as well 
as of the universal language of the heart. The right to a 
little bees-wax, or to a Tappang-tree is not beneath his 
adjudication ; the question of Slavery is not shunned by 
him ; he declares in the face of thousands, who have been 
accustomed to buy and sell their fellow-creatures, that, as 
the land of his birth emancipates the enslaved foot that 
touches it, so shall the land of his adoption. He assigns 
to murder its right name, though a chief be the murderer, 
and a poor fisherman the victim ; he utterly abolishes 
every barbarous and revolting custom ; he establishes so 
firmly the rule of reason and principle in the convictions 
of his people, that he is able to leave his government for 
months in the charge of a few trustworthy representatives, 
assured that the blessings he has planted shall conserve 



32 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

themselves, and that religion and justice will continue to 
go hand-in-hand. 

And he comes home to be put upon his defence as an 
assassin, a usurper, an impostor, a cheat, a mere trader ! 

The last word brings me to the next point which 
deserves attention. The Commercial development of 
Sarawak imder the same auspices has not been less 
remarkable than its political and social. Trade, which 
was absolutely nothing before Sir James Brooke's Grovem- 
ment, has experienced a progressive increase — varying, 
however, with the thermometer of Piracy — ^until having 
in 1849 reached to nearly 2000 tons, it has in this year 
approached 25,000. This does not include the coasting 
trade carried on in small prahus, but only that with 
Sincapore, the Dutch ports, &c. Many vessels — some of 
large tonnage, have been built or are building at Sarawak. 

Inseparably connected with the subject of commerce is 
that of piracy ; and the benefits conferred in this respect 
alone on trade, humanity, and civilisation, through the 
instrumentality of Sir James Brooke, are immense, although 
it is not his fault that they are not greater. Trade and piracy 
may here be designated as reciprocally thermometers to 
each other. In 1842 terror reigned, and trade was nought 
In 1844 the operations which I had the honour of 
directing restored peace to the coast ; trade revived, and 
made steady progress until 1848. By that time the 
pirates had forgotten their punishment ; they b^an to 
ravage the coasts ; trade declined. In 1849 they 



FORT JAMES. 33 

resumed all their old atrocities, which would have utterly 
destroyed peaceful avocations ; but, after their defeat by 
Capt. Farquhar in July, the returns for the year reached 
2,000 tons. The year 1850 shows 10,000 ; 1851, 15,000; 
1852 already 22,000 tons. And let me observe that the 
Sarawak river is not the richest, nor the most populous on 
the coast ; there are many others more productive, many 
equally so ; and therefore the question is not whether the 
Bajah of SaiSwak shall be left to a Uttle pack i^ho may 
hunt him down or not as they list, it being of no conse- 
quence to England generally ; but whether he be not in a 
position in which, for the sake of English commerce, it is 
of the greatest consequence to countenance and confide 
in him. 

The entire population of Sarawak has, under Sur James 
Brockets government, risen from 8000 to 50,000. 

Since the defeat of the pirates, in 1849, a most salutary 
preventive measure has been resorted to by Sir James 
Brooke, in the erection of two forts, which command the 
communication of the piratical rivers with the sea. One 
is at the junction of the Sakarran with the Batang Lupar. 
A flourishiqg town has already sprung up around this fort, 
which is called " Fort James.'^ It is worthy of note, that 
this fort was built by Sakarran Malays and Dyaks, — lately 
pirates by compidsion, if not by choice. It is highly 
pleasing to them : its objects are to maintain the ascend- 
ancy of the chiefe disincKned to piracy ; to prevent the 
descent of pirate fleets ; to check intertribal feuds. At the 

VOL. n. D 



34 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

request of the Sakarrans, who desired to have a European 
resident among them, the native ruler, whom Sir James 
Brooke had at first appointed to that post, has been super- 
seded by Mr. Brereton, who now holds that position at 
the will of the natives. 

Within the last few days I have been favoured with the 
perusal of a very recent letter from the above gentleman, 
of whom I am proud as a Norfolk man, thus governing 
in what was lately the stronghold of piracy. It is 
addressed to his father, and dated from Sakarran, July, 
1852. I avail myself of permission to print so much as 
is not of a private nature. It is valuable for its genuine 
and very fresh testimony as to the feelings cherished, 
even at this moment, by the Sakarrans towards the 
Rajah of Sarawak. 

" I have read Mr. ^^s letter with much attention ; 

I should wish you to explain to him that, if I were alone 
here, and had only my own interest at heart, I should 
discard the stoord and pistol as repugnant to my feelingSy 
as they would be injurious to my safety ; but that I have 

■ 

nearly 2000 Malays, who have joined their fortunes to my 
own ; and I should have both my honour to them and 
my discretion doubted, if I did not take the necessary 
precautions by arming them and myself, in case an armed 
force from the country should challenge an exchange of 
blows — and who would not, in defence of their friends and 
home (putting aside a good cause) ? And again it must 
be remembered, that this is the heart, the central spot 



LETTER FROM SAKARRAN. 35 

where piracy has prevailed for years ; from whence 
thousands yearly poured out to scour the high seas, whose 
hands were against every man's, and whose religion 
encourages murder. As I said before, if I were alone, I 
should discard arms as useless ; but, as head of a large 
community, I should be committing a greater crime, by 
not being prepared to meet on their own ground a people 
bom and educated in the midst of strife and bloodshed. 

It will be pleasing to Mr. to know that I have 

attained my present influence amongst these people, and 
the place has attained its present importance, without my 
having caused the death of a single individual, although 
I have been often obh'ged to present a musket. A firm 
attitude has accomplished this : but I have no hesitation 
in affirming that, if I had not been prepared, my own life, 
and that of all the Malays under me, would have been in 
danger. A dog will quarrel and bite, if his bone be 
taken away, and it is thus with the Dyaks with blood. 

'^ I must relate an affiiir which has just happened, to 

show Mr. the present feeling that the Dyaks have 

towards me, acting for the Rajah ; and at the same time 
I consider it as one of the highest compliments that has 
yet been paid to the Rajah, coming as it does from the 
mouths of the very people, upon whose account the 
unjustifiable and acrimonious attacks have been made 
upon him by certain parties, boasting the name of 
Englishmen. 

" I have been sending different parties about the 

D 2 



36 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

country, to ascertain the number and situation of the 
various tribes in this country, who follow me ; and the 
foUowing was the tenor of their discourse : — Their great 
fear was, * that the Rajah would give them up ; they never 
were so happy before ; things were never so cheap ; they 
could go about the country without fear of crossing an 
enemy's trail ; the Rajah was their sun, their mook, — 
their father and mother ; and that, if the Rajah would 
not receive their oflferings of padi, he was going to give 
them up, — they would bring it down themselves, or take 
it to Sarawak, wherever the Rajah liked: it was the 
greatest shame I could give them, if I did not take it from 
them. But what they gave now was not to be taken for a 
precedent by the Mdays, or any other party, if the Rajah 
gave them up, as they would never acknowledge anybody 
else, except the Rajah/ 

" The independent tone of this is capital ! * they will 
never acknowledge any other rule than the Rajah's ! ' and 
the endearing terms and expressions used are wonderful. 
The love and influence the Rajah possesses amongst these 
people is extraordinary. Is it not curious that I should 
hear this from the mouths of these people ? and in Eng- 
land now Hume is making them hate him ! 

*• I have also to thank Mr. for his very handsome 

present. I told Gasu, the most powerful chief here, of 

Mr. *s present, and of his ideas upon the subject of 

warfare. He said : * It was very good for the white man ; but 
that if it was not for these swords and spears, they would 



» y> 



FORT ON THE KANOWIT. 37 

have eaten themselves up, without the assistance of their 
enemies.' This is figurative, but true ; and I could not 
help thinking of our own tradition of the Kilkenny cats. 
He told me at the same time to ^ be armed, as it was 
proper. 

In the neighbourhood of Fort James, in the new town, 

and about the banks of the Batang Lupar, is a population of 
more than 200,000 souls ; the fields are now under culti- 
vation, having been untouched for years ; and all are now 
looking for protection to the Bajah of Sarawak, and ready 
of course, through the multiplying requirements of a great 
community, to pay back in commercial advantages what- 
ever benefits they may derive from European countenance 
and protection. 

The second new fort is at the entrance of the Kanowit. 
This also is built at the request and at the expense of the 
Eayan chiefs, and they too have requested the Rajah to 
send them a European Grovemor, Mr. Steel at present 
guards this fort ; and to his credit I record that by the last 
accounts he was absent in the interior, vaccinating the Kay an 
children. Such, in fact, has been the course pursued by 
the Rajah of Sarawak, and so well is he backed by his few 
European coadjutors, that his extraordinary influence may 
be said to be only now beginning to develop itself: it 
is a moral influence ; not the effect of force ; and the 
fact that many independent chiefs — heads of Governments 
de faxio — seek to be under the Government of Sarawak, 
but are refiised from necessity; that they nevertheless 



38 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

own its power, and make it the supreme arbiter of their 
internal disputes ; that there is not a pirate chief eyen, 
who will not come to Sarawak, assured of the good faith 
of its ruler ; nay — ^the single fact that he dwells among 
them in safety, with a mere handful of Europeans 
among thousands of natives, of a fierce and independent 
character, — ^this alone is an answer to any charge which 
private malice could originate', or uninquiring credulity 
receive, of cruelty, selfishness, oppression, against the Bajah 
of Sarawak. 

Of one thing I am sure : that if, being such as he 
is by actual position in the Eastern Archipelago, he be 
unnaturally driyen from the service and alliance of his 
native country by persecution and injustice at the hands 
of a persevering clique ; or if, looking reasonably to her 
for some reciprocity of disinterestedness, the results of 
which would inevitably reward her tenfold into her bosom, 
he finds his expectations repudiated ; — ^ii^ I say, such disap- 
pointments should produce their natural consequence, sure 
I am that there are European povrers, who will not be 
backward to appreciate the advantage of establishing 
such a reciprocity with the Sarawak flag: and one 
cannot help seeing that, devoted as Sir James Brooke 
has been hitherto to the interests of England, as 
against European rivals, his position and character are 
independent. 

The commercial importance of Sarawak in those seas 
can scarcely be over-rated : the astonishing influx of 



SECURITY— PEACE. 39 

Chinese immigrants attests that tJiey* at least have 
discoyered it. 

Among the benefits for which the chief praise is due to 
my fiiend, though I am aware that he duly acknowledges 
his obligations to the naval service^ is the present seoubity 
PROM PILLAGE, oujoyed on the highway of nations. 

And on shore no less he has been the peacemaker. 
Peace, through his mediation, has been established between 
tribes, whose mutual animosities had raged immemorially. 
Peace-Congresses have been held, which would gladden 
the heart and loose the tongue even of that euonymous 
personage, Mr. Elihu Burritt 

Wishing to express on these subjects my own genuine 
convictions untinged by communication with Sir James 
Brooke, I may have &llen into trifling inaccuracies ; but I 
think not into any that can afiect the main points I have 
advanced. I believe I may also safely state that all the 
improvements and salutary measures referred to have 
been carried into effect out of the Rajah's public salary y 
or firom the revenue of Sarawak ; the latter resource, 
however, is not very redundant. 

Its annual expenses are between £5,000 and £6,000. 
It has now a debt of £3,000 ; and it has absorbed 
£20,000 of Sir James Brooke's private fortune. 

I do not think that there are above one or two persons 
in this kingdom who could misinterpret the views of a 
not extravagant Grovemment, in appointing Sir James 
Brooke, in 1847, Governor of Labuan, with a salary and a 



40 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

Lieutenant-Governor ; or who could suggest that he was 
expected to waste all his time on that unpeopled island. 
It was a mode of acknowledging his past services to trade 
and to humanity, of retaining generally his prospective ser- 
vices, and of reimbursing him in some degree for the entire 
expenditure of his private fortune. The pubUc interests, 
however, have always received back that salary : for so 
much of it as was not expended in Labuan was devoted 
to the equipment of a fleet of native prahus, for the 
suppression of piracy, — an object sufficiently unselfish to 
disarm most cavillers. 

It is reported that the Sultan of Brun6 is dead, or 
dying. Anarchy and confusion will ensue, such as I 
confidently say the Bajah of Sarawak alone has the power 
to restrain. The probable successor to the throne is the son 
of Muda Hassim ; and again the Eajah of Sarawak is the 
only person who can advance the interests of the new Sultan. 
He is everywhere respected, and through him a general 
respect has attached itself to the English name. 

Of any one material assertion which I have here 
advanced I challenge denial : and if none can be denied, 
then I invite my country — as a country set against slavery, 
devoted to civilisation, aggrandised by comirierce, glorified 
by Christianity — still to appreciate the Rajah of Sarawak, 
her honoured representative in the East, and her most 
potent auxiliary in all these characters. I invite her to 
mark more loudly than ever her sense of the difierence 
between private persecution and conscientious patriotism. 



MORE "PARLIAMENTARY PAPERS." 41 

I had hoped that I should not have occasion, 
after the last chapter, to mention Mr. Hume : but even 
while writing this, I became acquainted with more 
" Parliamentary Papers," which I had not thought of 
examining before, and on which it would appear that he 
intends to build a new tower of strength for an assault 
upon Sir James Brooke. I can assure him that his 
foundation is of sand. I have only time to throw into 
the Appendix the three mischievously-intended questions 
addressed by the Honourable Member to Lord Maknesbury. 
His Lordship's reply is worthy of an English gentleman 
— ^but I can only refer to it from memory, as objecting 
to " prejudge a distinguished servant of the Crown ; *' 
which reply drew forth from Mr. Hume an elaborate 
denial that he is ^^ distinguished." I hope Mr. Hume may 
live to deny, or to be ashamed of his own distinction in 
a line which it is hard to beUeve conscientious still ; for 
this new case agam abounds in errors of conclusion, 
and of fact> which a statesman-like accuser, on public 
grounds, ought to be honest enough, and, when twice 
signally defeated, wise enough to shun. I read, however, 
in this morning's '^ Times," some excellent remarks upon 
calumnies directed against another vert/ distinguished 
(military) servant of the Crown, and upon the mode 
of treating them. Much good may they do to all in 
need of sound counsel and good consolation under 
calumny : — 

" The pubUc will very generally sympathise with the 



42 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

gallant officer's indignation at the foul aspersions brought 
against him. Let him leave the care of his defence to the 
justice of his contemporaries, and of posterity. Every 
one in this outspoken country, who has raised himself to 
any degree of civil or military eminence, has been exposed 
to the like attacks, and in his proper person proved how 
little calunmy can avail against an honest man. , Every 
obnoxious epithet was applied to the conqtteror of the 
Peninsula^ either for acts of his own men, over which he 
had no control, or for the acts of the enemy. He was 
great enough — every man should be great enough — to 
live down slander." 

I am favoured with the following interesting paper 
on the present state of Sarawak, by the Rev. Francis 
McDougall, the zealous and exemplary clergyman already 
referred to :— 

^' After many inquiries on the subject, I think we may 
safely say that Sarawak (or Euching) is now the most 
thriving town in all Borneo. I should put the Malay 
inhabitants at about 15,000 ; the poorer part of them grow 
rice, the wealthier are all traders who go to sea in their 
own vessels, or jom the ventures of those who have them. 
Many of the nakodas sail vessels of considerable burden ; 
one was launched last year of 230 tons ; and the number 
of craft of various description to be seen building on 
both sides of the river, as one rows past tiie town, is 
quite surprising. The once small Chinese Bazaar is grown 
into a respectable town, with broad streets for carts and 



MR. McDOUGALL'S LETTER. 43 

other wheeled conveyances. The altap cottages are 
giving place to substantial bilian and plank walled houses, 
and in some cases the roofe are tiled, in others covered 
with bilian shingles. The shops are cranuned with mer- 
chandise ; and several of the shopkeepers have branch 
estabUshments at Sakarran, and I believe also at SirikL 
Three or four small Sincapore schooners, owned by Chinese 
and EJings, are constantly running between Sarawak and 
Sincapore ; they bring European and Chinese goods, and 
take back sago, gutta percha, &c. The kitchen gardens 
cultivated by Chinese extend a long way round the town 
into the jungle, and by their rapid extension afford a con* 
vincing proof of the increasing demands of the place. 
There is a good carriage-road running due south from the 
town for nearly three miles, with pretty gardens and cot- 
tages all the way along. 

" Up the river at Siniawan and Bow, where three years 
since there were but a few scattered Chinese cottages, 
there are now considerable Chinese towns, with well built 
houses, shops of all kinds, and handsome joss and kimsi 
houses. 

''At Sakarran, round Fort James, the same pleasing 
signs of progress are visible ; and a picturesque little town, 
with its Chinese Bazaar and well built houses, now stands 
where two years ago there was but a few straggling 
cottagea From this town a brisk trade is carried on with 
the natives of the interior. 

" Up the Serebas, at Boling, a largo Malay town is fast 



44 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

springiiig into life, and there is a continually increasing 
trade between that river and Sarawak. 

''At Lundu the Chinese are settling in numbers, and 
have already converted a large tract of ground into sugar 
and vegetable gardens. Gold has been found there, which 
they hope to work profitably. 

''Since the fort has been built and gaiTisoned on the 
Rejang, an opening has been made into the Eayan countries, 
and a trade is springing up there which will, ere long, be 
very important 

" The Church of England mission at Sarawak has been 
gradually working its way into an important and promi- 
nent position. The church and mission house are striking 
features as one approaches the town ; the former is opened 
for regular daily services, which are assiduously attended 
by the native converts : the latter is as thronged and busy 
as a beehive. It is inhabited by the missionaries, their 
assistants, and the twenty-five native Christian children, 
who are being brought up there for future service in the 
mission, and, when duly qualified, will be sent out to teach 
their heathen firiends and kinsmen the ways of truth and 
righteousness. The Bajah has kindly lent the Court- 
house, and provided an assistant Malay teacher for a 
Malay school, which is held there daily for all such natives 
as like to attend. One missionary, Mr. Chambers, is 
stationed at Sakarran, among the important tribes of 
Dyaks on that river, who have received him welL It is 
intended that he shall soon be joined by another, to assist 



« DEGREES OF HONOUR." 45 

him in his important and laborious position ; and la third 
missionary is now about to proceed to Lundu, where the 
chief of the tribe has professed his desire to embrace 
Christianity. There are now four clergymen, one cate- 
chist, an English matron for the school, and two native 
assistants, attached to the mission. There is also an 
hospital and dispensary, supported by the Rajah, attached 
to it. As soon as the present clergy are suflSciently versed 
in the language, they will be placed out at diflferent 
stations abeady fixed upon, where the Dyaks are ready to 
receive them.*' 

I will end by setting Mr. Hume a puzzle. In the works 
of Lord Bacon he will find a dissertation on " sovereign 
honour." I invite him to adapt to any passage of his own 
life any one of the " degrees of honour*' there set forth, 
with half the appropriateness with which I will fit them 
all four upon my firiend. 

'^ In the first place are founders of States and Com- 
monwealths.'* — Here follow, of course, the great names of 
history. All I say is, that Mr. Hume, far from ever having 
founded anything, has a special predilection for things 
unfounded : whereas Brooke has founded Sarawak, which 
is, and will remain, his monument. 

" In the second place are law-givers ; which are also 
called second founders, because they govern by their ordi- 
nances after they are gone." — We have seen in this 
chapter the adminstration of the laws of Sarawak : they 



46 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

are made to last. I am not aware that the member 
for Montrose will leave anything to rule tis after lie 
is gone. 

" In the third place are liberators, or preservers : such 
as control the long miseries of civil wars, or deliver their 
countries from servitude of strangers or tyrants."-Read 
the history of Sarawak,'* Mr. Hume, and quote it fairly, 
and give us your own parallel passages. 

" In the last place are patres patric^ — ^fathers of their 
country-which reign justly, and make the times good, 
wherein they live." — This is the very light in which 
Sir Thomas Cochrane, Mr. Brereton, and many others, 
witness that Sir James Brooke is regarded in Borneo : 
and there is enough in this present chapter to establish it. 

I invite Mr. Hume to disprove my friend's title to 
every one of these " degrees of honour," or to establish 
his own to any one of them. And so I bid him heartily 
farewell. 



CHIEFS TENDER SUBMISSION. 47 



CHAPTER XVI. 



PIRATIOAL OHIITS TEHDER SUBXISSION — QOOD EFTEGTS OF THE EXPEDITION 

DTAK OEATITUDB — DTAK WOMEN — AMDSINa OUR VISITORS— fiORBV STEAMER 

ASTONISHES THE NATIVES — ^ADIEU TO SARAWAK — ARRIVAL AGAIN AT SINGAPORE 

SIR JAMES BROOKES JOURNAL — IMMIGRATION TO SARAWAK — SAMBAS — STRUOOLRS 

BETWEEN THE DUTCH AND OHINESB— OPINIONS OF DTAK CHIEFS ON PIRACY 

DEATH or BUNSIE AND TUJANQ ^-POLICY OF MEROT — BUSINESS ON HAND — 
DESCRIPTION OF A WEDDING— CHARACTER OF BUNSIE, AND OF TUJANG — LUNDU 

PEOGRBSS OF SARAWAK — EFFECT OF DCPROYBD OOVKRNMENT ON THE DTAKS 

DISPOSITION AND CAPABILITIES OF DTAKS CONSIDERED*— THE ORANG KATA 

PAMANOHA RETURN TO KUCHING. 

Fob many weeks subsequent to the return of Captain 
Farquhar's expedition, chiefs fix)m all the piratical rivers 
continued to visit the Rajah, and to tender their pledges to 
abstain from Piracy. Many Dyaks and Malays met and 
became friends, who had hitherto never met, and had 
only heard of one another as hereditary and deadly 
enemies. They benefited also in a commercial point of 
view by the late operations, as, in consequence of the 
peace and security which they obtained, they soon became 
great exporters of the productions of their exuberant soil. 



48 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

on which, amongst other things, rice and sago may be 
grown to any amount. 

Every attention and kindness was shown to the 
strangers at Sarawak, by the Rajah, after his return from 
the expedition to the Serebas and the Rejang. All the 
prisoners, including women and children, after being for 
some weeks well fed and treated in the kindest manner, 
were set at liberty, loaded with clothes and other presents. 

A pleasing trait of gratitude may be here related A 
Sakarran chief belonging to the river Poe, the head of 
eight villages, had been taken prisoner and detained at 
Sarawak. When the account of his capture reached his 
wife, she, with that careful attention peculiar to her sex, 
made up a bundle of valuable Dyak cloths, to enable him 
by their sale to support himseff and live like a chief 
Having been set at liberty, he had got as far as Siriki on 
his return home, when he met the messenger with the 
bundle. Informing the bearer that it had been his good 
fortune to make a friend of the Rajah, he bade him 
continue his journey to Sarawak, and present the package 
to Sir James, with a message begging that he would 
accept them, not for their value, but as a proof of his 
gratitude. 

The Dyak women are susceptible of great devotion to 
their husbands. When Indra Lelah was passing up the 
Linga, he noticed some particularly large alligators on 
the move, notice of which he gave to Ijow, a Balow Chie^ 
who was bathing with his wife. They immediately 



MAGIC LANTERN. 49 

turned to leave the stream ; but the chief waited a little 

« 

too long : he was seized and dragged under water ; the 
woman, on seeing her husband's fate, sprang into the 
river after him, shrieking out that she would not survive 
his loss ; but the alligator, having as much as he could 
manage, did not molest her ; she was with difficulty saved 
by her friends. 

Among the things shown for the amusement of the 
visitors, the burning of spirits astonished them greatly, 
as weU as a few simple chemical experiments : a magic 
lantern gave rise to bursts of merriment, and to many 
jocose observations. One view, representing some body- 
snatchers in a churchyard bearing away their ghastly 
burdens, pursued by a number of skeletons, one of which 
carried a skull in its hand, particularly excited the 
Sakarrans : they shouted, laughed, and yelled. 

One afternoon, to the wonder of all, and the dismay 
of not a few, a mysterious-looking ship was seen moving 
up the river, at a steady pace against a strong ebb tide ; 
their astonishment was great, for she was propelled by 
neither sails nor paddles. ** The English were indeed a 
wonderftd and wise people." It was the Reyna/rd man- 
of-war screw-steamer. Commander Cracroft, lately arrived 

from England. 

I took my leave of Sarawak, probably for the last time, 
with no small regret. It was a very different place when 
I first knew it in 1842. In those, its early days, it 
was my good fortune to lend it the small aid then 

TOL. IL K 



60 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

plax^d at my disposal, an aid which proved to be 
opportune. 

My interest in the province of Sarawak has increased, 
in proportion to its growing size and importance. My 
admiration of the man whose head has devised, and whose 
generosity and kindness of heart have conferred such 
laifting benefits on so many thousand human beings, is 
only that of every one who has ever taken the trouble to 
become acquainted with his character. "Out of evil 
good will arise/' — " Truth must prevail/'— " No good 
man was ever without his detractors ; " and those, who 
would blemish the fair fame of Sir James Brooke, will, by 
bringing his real character prominently before the public, 
only raise him higher in the opinion of the world. 

On arrival at Sincapore on the 20th August 1849, 
we foimd orders to proceed to Port Essington, Sydney, 
and the Pacific. We took up our old berth in New 
Harbour, and prepared for a voyage to another quarter 
of the globe. We had likewise to take charge of a 
schooner, built at Bombay for the Colonial Goyemment 
at Port Adelaide. 

I had delivered into the pubUsher's hands thus much 
of my own Manuscript, when Sir James Brooke kindly 
allowed me access to some scattered notes, which he had 
himself kept from time to time. They appeared to me to 
contain much interesting matter. One portion especially 
I could wish that he had allowed me to communicate. It 



SIR JAMES BROOKE'S JOURNAL. 61 

relates to his mission to the Ring of Siam. Another 
part, however, illustrative of men and things in 
Borneo, I have with difficulty obtained permission to 
make use of. 

The notes are published as they stand in the original 
Manuscript. 

"June 15th, 1850, — Sincapore. I commence anew a 
Journal of events, after a lapse of several important years 
of my life ; and I propose to continue it, as a record of 
events and of feelings, of hopes and of fears, of struggles, 
of successes, and defeats. 

" This record, however, will be for myself alone ; I shall 
try to lose the sense of writing for the public, and use 
the freedom that I feel of action and of expression. 

"October 28th, 1850. My Journal recommences in 
Sarawak— our detention in Sincapore and the passage 
over in the Nemesis being unworthy of mention. 

" Sarawak flourishes ; and an influx of a large body of 
Chinese promises well for the futiure ; and the fact of 
these immigrants having wives and families, and being 
agriculturists, ensures the quiet of the country. 

"Sambas, it appears, has at present two kunsis or 
associated bodies of Chinese ; namely, the Tyquong whose 
capital is Montrado, and Santiqu, who were principally 
located at Sipang. The power of the Tyquong kunsi had 
overshadowed the entire country, until the Dutch 
authority was but a name ; and the large opium revenue 

I 2 



52 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

of the Sultan of Sambas was gi-adually falling away, from 
the barefaced system of smuggling carried on. 

" I beUeve that I may safely say that it had become a 
question, which of the two parties was to rule the 
country ; and thus the Dutch and the Sultan resolved to 
vindicate the authority of Grovernment, and to humble the 
kunsi Tyquong. The occasion was not long wanting; 
and, a positive demand for the deUvery of some opium 
smugglers meeting with a positive refusal, hostilities 
followed. The detail is of no importance to Sarawak; 
but up to the present time Tyquong has been successAiI, 
has beaten back the Dutch troops from their ground, 
and has attacked and pimished all the Chinese who have 
sided with the legitimate Government. Amongst these 
the Santiqu have suflFered : Sipang and other places have 
been captured ; and the inhabitants of the flourishing 
town of Pamangkat, at the entrance of the Sambas river, 
fled in a fright to Sarawak, on the advance of their 
Chinese enemies. Thus Sarawak has gained a very good 
and a very usefiil population ; and Sambas, our neighbour, 
is involved in a struggle which must materially afiect its 
future prosperity, in which ever way it may terminate. 

" My sympathies are with the Dutch ; and I am assured 
that the existence of the Dyaks in Sambas depends on 
the humiliation of the Chinese. At all events Sarawak 
must gain, and its future prosperity must depend on the 
Government of the Chinese, It is to this point, therefore, 
that I first turn my attention ; and, as the Santiqu are 



THE MALAYS CORRUPT THE DYAKS. 53 

now in distress, and suflficiently humble, it will not be a 
diflBcult task to reduce it to obedience, and to establish a 
fixed system of government, which shall prevent that 
gradual, but fatal, encroachment on the Dyaks, which has 
prevailed in the neighbouring country. In the mean 
time, though these Pamangkat fugitives are miserably 
poor, and though we are supporting 350 families, the 
jungle is fast disappearing around the town, and houses 
are springing up in every direction. The Chinese in the 
interior once brought under control, and I look forward 
to a great and rapid advance in the resources of the 
country and its revenues. 

" After breakfast, met Nanang, Lowio, and Ajee, the 
three sons of the Orang Kaya Pamancha of Serebas. 
Nanang and Ajee I like ; and it would have instructed 
some English wiseheads to have heard them strongly 
insisting, that their delinquencies by sea and by land were 
committed chiefly at the instigation of the Malays. 
*Had I been present last night,' said Ajee, 'when 
Abang Apong said the Malays could not restrain the 
Dyaks, I would have told him to his face that it was the 
Malays who first taught the Dyaks to pirate, and who 
have since always encouraged and participated in the 

crime/ 

"I sent many kind messages to the Orang Kaya 
Pamancha, begging him to forbear himself, and to restrain 

the other Dyak chiefs. 

" Abang Apong the son of the Laxsimana of Serebas, 



54 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

arriyed at the same time as Nanang : the latter inhabits 
Paddi, the former Paku. He is a fine yomig man, and 
well spoken ; and, if I may trust to his assurances, there 
is no doubt that the Malays of Serebas will desist fix>m 
piracy. It is certain that the tone of submission at 
present is better than after Keppel's operation. The 
repetition of the blow has done much ; and, as I am 
assured that the Malays of their own accord desire to 
establish themselves at Boling, I have great hopes of their 
sincerity ; for at Boling they are accessible at all times. 

" It was Abang Apong, his brother Abang Gombang, 
Lingire, and a small party, that killed my poor friend 
Bunsie and his younger brother Tujang, sons of the 
Orang Kaya Tumangong of Lundu.* It is strange that 
on both the occasions, when we have been unfortunate in 
action, it was from the neglect of my precautions. Bunsie 
and Tujang, instead of advancing cautiously as scouts 
before forty Malays, and with the body of Europeans 
within a hundred yards, straggled forward as though an 
ambush was impossible. Bunsie passed a small clump of 
bamboo, behind which the enemy were concealed ; and 
Lingire (a very little man) jumping out killed him with 
two cuts on the back. Tujang ran to his brother's assis- 
tance and engaged Abang Apong ; both fell, and each 
grappled the sword arm of his adversary ; but Abang 
Gombang coming to his brother's aid, and Lingire 



• The incidents here detailed are mentioned in my account of operations np 
the Paka branch of the Serebas river, chap, x., H. K. 



SEREBA8 JACK. 

likewise, Tujang was despatched, just as two Malays of 
our party arrived at the scene of conflict. 

" These two, of whom one was Abang Hassan, fired 
at about ten paces' distance ; the one shot killing Abang 
Grombang, and the other passing through Lingire's 
war jacket. The small party forming the ambuscade 
then fled, and we were not again troubled by enemies. 
This story I had from Lingire. 

" Among the visitors was Captain Wallage's captured 
Dyak, commonly known by the name of "Jack,'' but 
whose real name is Kabo, and who is the brother of 
Lingire. The last fact he concealed, fearing, as he said, 
the natives who were with us. The man seemed pleased to 
meet me again, and grateful for the kindness shown him. 

" Mercy in these cases is seldom thrown away ; and we 
ought never to judge this wild and barbarous people as we 
would judge a piratical felon of Europe. The crime must 
be suppressed at any cost ; but the distinction between 
the perpetrators is palpable. The one being a national or 
tribal ofience against the world at large, the other the act 
of individual felons, the outpouring scum of civilisation. 

" There are four questions of prominent importance to 
be attended to during my six weeks' residence here. 
First, the settlement of Serebas, as &r as may be. Second, 
the settlement of Sakarran, by means of the fort esta- 
blished at the entrance, which will be the nucleus of a 
trading town. Third, the settlement of the Rejang by a 
fort and trading port at the mouth of the Eanowit. 



56 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

Fourth, something like a government for the fine river of 
Sadong. 

" These points must be well considered ; and to create 
good governments I must find good agents ; and I must 
have the permission of the dejure rulers in Borneo, whose 
power has long been at an end. 

" 29th. — ^A wedding at the Datus House, where we sat 
for two long hours ; but I cannot stop to describe it.'' 

ili ili ifi Hfi -Hf. 

I interrupt my friend's Journal to give an a<x50unt of 
the wedding here alluded to. 

The bride was a niece of my old acquaintance Mina, 
the Datu Patingue's wife ; the bridegroom was young 
Eassan, who was residing with the Datu Bandar. The 
event created, from the rank of the parties, a great 
sensation at Sarawak. 

For a whole month previous to the actual ceremony, 
firing of cannon and display of flags, feasting and merry- 
making, had been going on at the houses of the respective 
parents. 

The ceremony took place at Mina's new residence. 
A large square space was fitted up in one comer of the 
room, and handsomely decorated : here were placed the 
bridal couches, the two last covered with handsome mats ; 
and at the head of each there was a pile of pillows which 
nearly reached to the ceiling. The couches were sur- 
rounded by one or two sets of curtains, ready to be let 
down at pleasure ; and the spaces between the latter and 



WEDDING AT SARAWAK. 57 

the couches were decorated in gorgeous style, with cloth 
of gold, artificial flowers, and numerous other ornaments. 

Chairs (an unsightly innovation) were placed in the 
centre of the room for the Europeans, on which we had to 
wait a considerable time. Gradually the room began to 
fill with the ladies of Sarawak and their children ; they 
seated themselves in their more primitive posture, all 
squatting on the floor, while the men collected outside. 

In one comer we observed the bride seated on an 
ornamented mattress, and surrounded by a crowd of 
women, who were busy dressing and decorating the poor 
girl ; she drooped her head and affected to be, or I 
dare say she was, very nervous, but did not say a word. 
However, the head-dress, covered all over with gold 
flowers and ornaments, having been completed to the 
satisfaction of the elderly ladies, she was led to the bridal 
couch, where she was seated. The men sit cross-legged ; 
the posture of the women is more graceful, both feet 
being inclined on one side and bent back. We noticed 
that each young lady closely scrutinised the bride, and 
pretended to detect something in the dress that required a 
finishing pinch : some fstnned her, and all looked a little 
envious. 

Her dress was very handsome, and in good taste : the 
baju (jacket) was of shot silk, embroidered with gold, and 
was of native manufacture ; the saluar (trowsers) of rich 
silk ; one sarong, likewise of silk, was fastened round the 
waist by a gold belt, and reached to the ancles ; while a 



/)8 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

lighter one was worn over the right shoulder and across 
the breast; her arms were loaded with massive gold 
bracelets, and she wore on her left hand a profusion of 
rings ; a handkerchief was held in her right hand, as is 
considered indispensable by Malays of rank. 

The young bride had a narrow escape of being very 
pretty ; the upper part of her face really was so, but the 
lower jaw was a little too square and prominent. 

From the number in the room, we had an opportunity 
of forming an opinion as to the looks of Malay women, 
which were decidedly pleasing ; a few of the damsels 
particularly so. Those of our party who had been living 
long enough to have got over their English prejudices, 
pointed out two or three whom they declared to be down- 
right handsome. The women of the lower classes have, 
however, so much household drudgery to perform, that 
their good looks soon wear out. The men, although 
small, are strong-limbed and well proportioned ; but their 
features are hard and ugly. 

Our bride having been kept in proper suspense for 
some time, the approach of the bridegroom, who had been 
fitting out at his relation's (the Bandar's), was announced. 

Eassan, having landed from his barge (a new Siamese 
boat, lent for the occasion by the Rajah), was borne 
by four men on a kind of chair to the door of the 
room, preceded by men carrying ornaments of artificial 
flowers. 

On his alighting here, some Hadjis (men who have 



WEDDING AT SARAWAK. 59 

made a pilgrimage to Mecca) uttered a prayer, which was 
three times responded to by the whole assemblage. After 
this, Kassan struck the threshold of the room with his 
foot three times ; and then walking up to the bridal couch 
between two men, he gently touched his future wife over 
the head with a wand, and placed his right foot in her lap. 
and then retreating a couple of paces he sat down on the 
adjoining couch. 

Kassan was dressed, as well as his bride, in cloth of 
gold. He wore silk trowsers, and over them a sarong, 
short, like a kilt : another sarong, crossing over his right 
shoulder and imder the left arm, and a crown of gold 
flowei'S on his head, completed his costume. 

As this was all of the ceremony we were allowed to 
see, we left the room ; in which I understand the wedded 
pair have to remain shut up for seven daya 

Sir James Brooke^s journal continued : — 

" At night we had the magic lantern, which afforded 
much amusement ; my old friend Pang-oum the Orang 
Eaya Suntah was present. I promised to go and see the 
Orang Kaya Pamancha at his new location at Marudung, 
and thence proceed to the Quop to visit Pang-oum's tribe. 

'^ I am not at home yet in Court, and find much laxness 
in the details of business. 

" 30th. — Abang Apong, with Lingire and their Serebas 
party took leave. I have hopes of them. 

" Pang-oum brought a young cocoa-nut for me to spit 



60 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

into, as usual ; and after receiving a little gold-dust and 
white cloth, returned home to cultivate his rice-fields. 

" 31st. — The Orang KayaLundu arrived as Lingire was 
departing, and fortunately they did not meet ; for it 
would have been sad pain to the poor father to have met 
the slayer of his son. 

" Poor Bunsie was a great favourite of mine ; and I had 
seen him grow up, fi'om the little boy, as I described him * 
presenting me with a white fowl on my first visit to 
Lundu, into the fine handsome warrior, who was slain 
at Paku. He was of a mild disposition, and amiable 
character, and far different from his brother Tujang, 
whose death has been a blessing to his tribe ; for he was 
of a fierce, ardent temper, arrogant and overbearing, 
loving war and strife ; and, although possessed of many 
virtues, yet distinguished by quahties which rendered hun 
an unsafe man in peaceful times. He had already passed 
beyond the control of his father, and domineered over his 
milder brothers Kalong and Bunsie ; and the struggle for 
the chieftainship on the father's death would have only 
had the effect of breaking up what has been, under the 
old man's sway, the strongest party of the long-divided 
tribe of Sibuyow. Now Lundu is prosperous and rising ; 
and I propose to make it more prosperous still ; for, there 
being no inhabitants in the interior, no Dyaks who might 
be injured, it will be an admirable locality for the Chinese. 
Gold has been found there ; and the Chinese from Sambas 

♦ See " Keppers Borneo." 



DYAK DEVELOPMENT. 61 

are anxious to work it. The soil is represented as excel- 
lent ; and as large a Chinese population as chooses may- 
be established. 

" Two Chinese men, Akin and Assan, came with the 
Orang Kaya. They, with about sixty men, women, and 
children, fled from Sipang on its capture by the Tiquong, 
and are badly off*. These may form a nucleus : at any 
rate I shall try ; and with a European ruler Lundu will 
rise into a second Sarawak. 

" Sarawak seems to have taken the shoot upward which 
I had expected long ago : but confidence is of slower 
growth than I anticipated ; and piracy has been a great 
drawback. I may mention, too, that the effect on the 
Dyaks of a freedom from oppression has been just the 
reverse of what I expected. The freedom from oppression, 
the reduction of taxation, the security for life and 
property, has made them lazy. I always thought that it 
would have made them industrious, and eager to improve 
their condition. This error is a common one ; and 
probably most men in England would have fallen into it 
as well as myself More of this another time; but, 
lazy or industrious, the right principle should (and shall) 
be persevered in ; for the right principle is based on 
the solid rock. If the first step is laziness, the second will 
be improvement, the third industry. 

" The lazy, comfortable, well-fed Dyaks, who have no 
occasion to work for others, and no wish to work for 
themselves, who have arrived at the summit of human 



1 



62 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

felicity, as depicted in their imaginations, form no 
migratefiil picture for the mind to rest upon : and now, 
before they labour to satisfy their wants, they must 
be taught new wants, arising out of an improved social 
state. Would I labour in order to possess palaces paved 
with gold, and studded with precious stones ? No, 
certainly not, for I should not value such a lodging. 
Why, then, should the Dyak work to obtain a silver 
spoon, or a silver platter, when a plantain leaf and five- 
pronged hand are sufficient for his wants? There is 
a point of social developement which begets healthy 
wants and desires; and to this point the Dyak has 
not arrived. 

" There is, besides this, a condition of sterner want, 
begotten by the very progress of social advancement, 
which we know in England and Ireland ; and Gtod forbid 
the Dyak should come to that state of penury, which has 
ever been seen in contrast, and, perhaps, must ever 
contrast fiightfuUy with a high degree of civilisation. 
There are some philosophers who harp on the terms 
" industry '' and " work/' as though these two words 
comprised the sum total of human happiness — workt 
work ! work I and when the weary head reposes, what is 
gained? Why, food! Now if food can be obtained 
without ceaseless labour, is it not better that the poor man 
should relax from toil? Is there not a greater hope 
of moral and intellectual fruit when want is not always 
pinching us, or staring us in the face ? 



DYAK IMPROVEMENT. 63 

^^ I beliere that stem and ceaseless toil keeps man as 
nearly as possible to the level of the brute. I say then, 
let the Dyak be happy — let him eat his fill of the rice he 
grows. He has pigs beneath his house — he feasts at 
stated periods — he is not driven to labour for others. 
The jungle is his ovra, he enjoys the chase, he is rich 
in his own estimation, and he is happy. Why should he 
toil when he does not want — ^when he has no desire 
to gratify — no hope to realize? He is content and 
well-fed. The time will come when events, chasing each 
other in the world, will advance his intellectual powers ; 
the infant state of the race vrill progress to manhood ; 
the Dyaks vrill improve morally and socially, and be 
creatures capable of appreciating a higher order of 
enjoyment. But it is time, and time alone, can do this ; 
the whole province of Government is to afford them 
protection, and to prevent them from injuring others ; and 
taxation, that inevitable result of Government, must 
be apportioned to their laziness. They must not be forced 
to work : no ! not even to pay the taxes that may not 
appear burdensome. They must not be forced to work — 
no ! though civilised men and wise may think it for their 
good. In these principles I am firm and steadfast. 

" Philanthropists would improve the Dyaks by teaching 
the women to sew, and the men to manufiwjture piece- 
goods. Experience will leave them to advance, content 
that they enjoy, and fearful of applying rules which may 
injure and not benefit them. 



64 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

" The giant Improvement goes forth mider the school- 
master Philanthropy, with all civihsed appliances ; but 
savages will not be hurried into his views by patent 
processes. We must let the Dyak in his playground play 
innocently a^ long as he Ukes, eat and drink, and be 
merry. His lessons must be light at first ; and when 
he arrives at man's estate he shall put off foolish things, 
and know that he has a mind and a God. In that God let 
me trust, who has placed me here as the Dyak's guide. 

" On the 4th I visited by invitation the new settlement 
of Marudung, where the branch of the Sibuyows, com- 
manded by the Orang Kaya Pamancha, has been located 
for about four years. 

" I was joyously received ; visited the different houses ; 
made them a present, as usual, of a little gold, some white 
cloth, and, as is the custom amongst them, sufficient iron 
to make each man a sword, which is here equivalent to a 
plough ; for in fact the Dyak uses his sword for turning 
up the soil, and it w his plough. This is the first year 
they have paid revenue. 

" The place is well chosen, the soil very rich, and the rice 
grown by this tribe is the finest in Sarawak, as fine as I 
have ever seen in any country. 

" The Orang Kaya and his people confess themselves to 
be very comfortable. They made merry during the day, 
and in the evening were stupid : but partial intoxication, 
which is the only stage they arrive at by the use of their 
fermented Uquors, never leads to anything like riot. 



PIRATES' CONFESSIONS. 65 

" During the feasts Luang (a Dyak of the tribe) was very 
inquisitiye to hear of my reception in Siam ; after giving 
Mm a brief account^ I mentioned by chance that we had 
returned to Sincapore along the coast of the Malayan 
States of Patani, Tringanu, &c., upon which he remarked 
that he had been along that coast, had passed the mouth 
of the Menam, and extended his voyage to the shore of 
Cambodia. * You ! ' I asked in astonishment, ^ How 
did you manage to get there 1 ' He replied that he had 
accompanied the Lanuns on a piratical cruise, being sent 
by Sheriflf Sahib of Sadong. The Orang Eaya took 
up the conversation, and detailed many of the piracies 
committed by his portion of the Sibuyows, whilst located 
at Sadong, and concluded by sajdng, * We were sent out, 
and could not refuse ; but if you want to know all about 
piracy, there (pointing to Abang Hassan, a Malay,) is one 
of Sheriff Sahib's panglimas/ Upon this a long conver- 
sation followed ; and I was certainly struck with the 
details of the manner in which these Dyaks were 
gradually trained to the trade of piracy. 

" On the morning of the 5th they washed the feet of all 
our party in cocoa-nut-water ; and there was the ceremony 
of waving the fowl, and invoking blessings on the tribe. 
We then started for the Quop at nine o'clock ; and after 
a three hours' walk in a killing sun, took refuge in a 
dangow, or temporary hut, till the intense heat had passed 
away. At four, after a delicious bathe on the way up the 
hill, we arrived at the house, where our dear old Drang 

TOL. n. F 



66 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

Eaya Pang-oum had made all sorts of preparations for 
our reception. It is highly gratifying to witness the 
plenty and comfort which reign among these people, and 
their unbounded — even superstitious — confidence in me. 

" Some trivial recurrence to the old system of serra* has 
been allowed to creep in during my periods of absence ; 
and this must be amended ; but, on the whole, the Dyaks 
are at the summit of their ideas of happiness. Rice, 
pigs, children, and fruit-trees abound ; what more does 
a Dyak need 1 

" After our dinner, I fell fast asleep in the midst oS 
the fowl-waving, dancing, and gouging ceremonies ; and 
ever and anon, as I awoke through the long night, I saw 
the dim figures in the uncertam light, pacing their minuet 
dose to me, or heard the melancholy song of the female 
chorus, filling up the pauses of the louder clang of gongs 
and tom-toms. It looked shadowy and unreal ; but still, 
overcome with fatigue, I slept an unquiet sleep. 

" The 6 th November up at daylight. Superintended the 
planting of a post or flagstaff, and was exhorted to 
spit on lumps of rice, and to feed the children, the women, 
and aged men. 

" Four miles^ walk before breakfast brought us to the 
landing-place, and we reached Kuching at two o'clock, 
after a short and agreeable excursion." 

* Forced taxation. 



SIR JAMES BROOKE'S JOURNAL. 67 



CHAPTER XVII. 



SDnAWAH — DTAKS GEATIFITL — BOW — THB TUCPLB — KUim— TBI PABIT— COH- 

mronra nrrEBisTS finTTLBi>— thi millavows — aristoobatio tbhf — dbliv- 

^UBBOIBS OF BAHDAB KA88I1I OF 8AD0HCI FISHIRa — BUPBBSTinOR A8 TO THB 

riBH P^TTUr— 0H17B0H AT 8ABAWAK — DAILT LIFB THKB>— OOVBT— OOHFBBBVOB 
WITH THB OOMPAHT — 8VI0IDB BT A OHIHAMAH — BIB JAKBS BBOOKB UBWBLL, 
DBOIBBS OH TISITDia BBOLABD— flHBBIFF MOKSADT — HIS BTIL DBBDS AT 
8AKABBAB— BBMABD FOB BTBOPIAN GOYBBBMBHT — VISITS FBOM OHISFS— APYIOB 
TO THIM — ^BTBOPBAir OOYBBHOB PBOMISID— BBYBNXTl. 

" Saturday, 9th November, started at 4 a.in, reached 
Leda Tannah at seven, break&sted, and proceeded to 
Siniawan' — thence to Tundong. The Chinese locations 
about here are fifteen in number. 

" There is but one feeling amongst the Sow, Sarambo, 
Bombak and Paninjow Djaks against the Chinese ; Singe 
is more favourably disposed. 

" The banks of the river near Singe were shaded by 
numerous flowering trees and shrubs, presenting a 
beauteous sight. The approach to Siniawan always 
interests me, and recalls the operations against my present 
friends, and best supporters. Eassim, in passing the 

r 2 



68 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

Dampar creek, related to me his capture, the slaughter 
of two other poor boys who were with him, and his 
subsequent suflFerings. 

" Ingratitude is a conmion vice to tax men with ; but 
I can safely say that from Eassim, and all the rest of the 
Siniawans, I have met with gratitude and kindly feeling ; 
that is, such gratitude as we have a right to look for from 
men^ and not of that sentimental quality which panders to 
vanity, or is exacted whenever a benefactor is out 
of humour. 

" From Tundong we walked a short five miles to Bow ; 
our long procession was met half way by a Chinese 
guard of honour, who fired guns, and beat the most 
discordant gongs and other instruments, that ever jarred 
on mortal ears. Coupling their name of Celestials with 
their musical attainments, we may conclude that the choir 
of a Chinese heaven is very unsuited to our present 
notions. 

^' Bow is not so comfortable as it ought to be ; but still 
there is an industrious aspect — a new substantial house, 
with fine Balian posts and attaps ; but it is only a show- 
house —a kunsi-house — a devil-house, without any comfort 
or convenience. 

" The temple is in the centre ; on each side is a room 
where the workmen sleep ; and above these again they 
are thickly stowed away, on floors beneath the root 
Without is an open shed, where the range of cooking-pans 
is placed, about and around' which the kunsi-folk and 



PROJECTS AND POLICY. 69 

labourers sit and eat, and drink tea. In fact it is a 
monastic establishment, without the privacy of cells, 
or the devotion of the chapel. The fugitives from Sipang 
and Pamangkat are located in temporary huts, close 
to the kunsi establishment, and they wash for gold in the 
old parits of the kunsi. 

"My object in coming here was to know what the 
Chinese are about ; to reduce them imder government ; 
and to protect the Dyaks ; and I wish likewise to remove 
as many of them as I can to the sea-board. 

" There are justice and revenue in opposite scales : I 
wish to encourage the Chinese, but it must not be at the 
expense of the Dyaks. The Chinese will develop the 
resources of the country, as they are active and industrious ; 
but they must be located where they cannot encroach 
on the poor and simple aborigines. 

" 10th, Sunday. Took a stroll in the morning to the 
pond which supplies water for the gold works, and thence 
we saw an old parit, and a parit just making. The parit 
is a narrow boarded trench, through which the water 
is led ; and close to this trench the workmen dig the 
alluvial soil which they throw into the water, the gold 
being deposited, the refuse carried off. Numbers of 
fugitives were at work, washing for gold in the forsaken 
trenches ; and though it is impleasant, and scarcely 
remunerative, they seemed merry enough. 

"Breakfast over, I had the three writers, with other 
Chinese of some respectability, to a conference. 



70 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

" Wi9 were surrounded by a large crowd ; I made all my 
demands in due form, and all were complied with ; but 
the difficulty is in the detail of execution, and not in the 
wholesale of words. The principal demands were, — that 
the kunsi was not to aim at goyeming, nor to receive 
revenue, but was frankly, freely, and unreservedly, to 
acknowledge the authority of the Grovemment of Sarawak. 
That it was to appoint a Captain China, whilst I was 
to appoint a Captain Inglis, who were jointly to super- 
intend the affairs and proceedings of the company in the 
interior. 

^^ That the kunsi were not to decide any cases of dispute 
or crime, excepting among their own people ; and then 
only for misdemeanours of a light description. 

" That the kunsi were not to take Dyak lands, nor to 
open any new parit, without permission. That all 
malefactors demanded were to be given up, &c. &a 

" These terms being agreed on, the space of ten days 
was fixed, at their request, when they were to come 
to Kuching, to acquaint me who was to be the Captain, 
and what the mode of transferring revenue to Govern- 
ment, which has been heretofore levied by the Eunsi on 
the Chinese in the interior. — At the same time I directed 
them to send down the great mass of the new comers^ 
and not to allow of small Chinese locations in different 
directions; and I informed them that I would on no 
account allow Chinese to farm lands in the interior. This 
being concluded, we parted on the most friendly terms, 



TUNDONG. 71 

and I set off for Pankalan Bow, attended by mj 
discordant band, and the one, two, three, cracking of 
gingalls. 

" Ten minutes' walk brought Brooke * and myself to the 
landing place ; and a small boat borrowed for the 
occasion being in waiting, we dropped down the river to 
Tundong. At Bow the small river of that name joins the 
main staream, bringing down the debris of the gold works, 
and tainting the clear and transparent water for many 
miles below. 

"The overarching trees on rocky banks, the stream, 
here rippling over rocks and pebbles, and there sweUing 
into placid progress, present as sweetly sylvan a scene as 
man would wish to gaze on. The sunbeams flickered 
through the foliage ; and lazily reclining I enjoyed 
myself till we reached Tundong, and joined the rest of our 
party. Here we found some hundred and fifty or two 
hundred Dyaks, fully armed, awaiting us, but too late for 
the conference. I was ill pleased with this display of 
Meta's pretended zeal, and the real design of hostile 
demonstration ; and I should have walked them all back 
to the place whence they came, had they arrived earlier : 
but as it was, we all started on our way home, and the 
Dyaks would soon follow. 

" From all that I have seen, the injury done to the 
Dyaks is in a great measure imaginary, and by no means 
justifies their complaints. 

* Captain Brooke, nephew of Sir James Brooke. 



72 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

" The principal Chinese location of Bow the Dyaks have 
not used within the memory of man. Salingok does not 
deprive them of one farm ; and the small locations of 
eight or ten Chinese are scarcely worth mentioning ; yet 
for all this I do not wish to locate numbers of Chinese in 
the interior ; and their diffusion here and there in small 
nuclei renders them difficult to govern. It is however 
attention to details, which must keep the Chinese and the 
Dyaks in checL The Chinese must not be allowed to 
injure the Dyak, but the Dyak must not monopolize tracts 
of land which he cannot use, — ^like a "dog in the manger." 

" At three our party arrived at Leda Tannah ; and after 
dining started for home at nine, where we arrived at 
half-past twelve. 

" 14th. — Quietly at home : the days in Court ; the 
evenings generally crowded with visitors. I received a 
a long message from Pangeran Mat-Ali, of Oj% who is 
really, I believe, a good man. I was rejoiced to hear, 
that the civil dissensions in the rivers of Oya and Muka 
had ceased for the present. I wrote to both these 
Pangerans, i.e. to Mat Ali and his cousin Ursat, 
encouraging them in the path of good Government. The 
Millanows, whom they govern, are a quiet people — 
unwarlike, but with many strange and barbarous habits. 

" On the 12th, I had a Sheriff, a nephew of the Sultwi 
of Pontiana, — ^a man of the very highest rank in these 
countries below the toind — before me in Court, accused of 
a petty theft. He had come from Sincapore ; and, not 



ARISTOCRATIC THIEF. 73 

being able to pay the passage-money, had prigged a gold 
bracelet from the house of a Pontiana woman, whom 
he had honoured with his presence. I read him a lecture, 
told him shame was in crime, and that he was covered 
with shame, and in his high position must feel having 
been found guilty of theft in Court ; that a poor man 
would be flogged or imprisoned for the offence, but that a 
person of exalted birth, the son of a Sultan, would, if he 
had any right feeling, any sense of shame, be sufficiently 
punished by disgrace, and exposure, and guilt. I there- 
fore directed him to be kept in jail, till an opportunity 
occurred for sending him back to the place whence he 
came ; I afterwards let him out on bail 

" My countrymen who sat in Court with me thought I 
had been too lenient in this sentence — I did not, and do 
not think so : the crime was the Ughtest description of 
theft : laws are never equally appUed ; and if they were, 
there would be no justice. An officer is not flogged for 
getting drunk as the common soldier is : the crime is the 
same, but the punishment would be unequal. A blood 
horse feels one lash more than a donkey feels a dozen : a 
man of birth and education, however degraded, feels 
punishment more acutely than the man, whose moral 
perceptions have never been awakened. This is a feeUng 
which should be cherished ; and the feeling of shame is 
found acute in the Malayan race : it is not found in the 
Chinese : it is a moral sense ; and a moral punishment 
can be applied ; and when this moral sensitiveness and 



74 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

moral punishment become more general, through the 
medium of moral education, or by any other means, then 
the law will be disarmed of its brutal inflictions, and 
justice will be more equalised to the outward senses : 
but there can be no justice, where pimishment is equally 
appUed to all classes of men for the same offences. 
* Fine, or Tread-mill,' says the magistrate in Bow Street 
The gentleman pays the fine, and, if he be a gentleman, 
feels the disgrace. The hardened man feels not, but 
treads his weary round of a month. This distinction is 
as near an approach to justice, as human beings can 
arrive at, and this is the distinction I made in the case of 
the Sheriff. Had I flogged him ever so lightly, I should 
have been unjust most probably to him, and I should 
have blunted the fine moral perception of every Malay 
present. The same moral sense of disgrace, which deters 
from crime, would have risen in arms against the punish- 
ment ; and every Malay present would liave been shocked 
at the severity, and felt the injustice. 

" Last evening came the Sennah and Sinangkan Dyaks, 
and put me in a fever of indignation at the practices of 
that wretch Bandar Eassim of Sadong, who has once 
again been at his paltry intrigues to bully and oppress. 
Stopped it must be, and stopped it shall be. 

" 1 5th. I got up, with my indignation against Bandar 
Kassim cooled, but all the more resolute in my purpose 
of checking his career of folly, meanness, and crime, in 
Sadong. What pains have I not taken with this man ! 



BANDAR KASSIM. 75 

Oppressed as he and the Sadong people were by the 
residence of SheriflF Sahib in their country, and by his 
harsh and arbitrary Grovemment, I recommended this 
man — ^then Abong Kassim — to Muda Hassim, and got him 
made Bandar. He had the sole charge of all the Sadong 
Dyaks, and the Government of the Malays. He paid no 
revenue to Brune, and was never interfered with from 
Sarawak ; and without an evil course he might easily 
have made a thousand a-year, and with an increasing 
revenue have seen his people happy. How often did I 
instruct, beseech, reprove this man, to keep him in the 
right path 1 How long have I borne with him, in the 
hope that he would awake to his own interests, and 
perceive the madness and the folly of a wrong course ! 
All in vain : weak-minded, and short-sighted, the idiot 
has mistaken forbearance for weakness, remonstrance for 
idle words, and pardon for a proof of his own power. 
Oppressions, exactions, robberies, misgovemment, injustice, 
violence were all forgiven five years ago. His interference 
with the Dyaks of Sadong, who had fled and found 
protection in Sarawak, gave rise to a strong remonstrance, 
and orders to forbear ; but the fool cannot and never 
could forbear. When I went to England, the intrigues 
of Duna Lelah, SheriflF JaflFer, and SheriflF Ahmed, dis- 
possessed him of power at Sadong. I returned, and 
reinstated him, with fresh cautions, and fresh instructions. 
Nevertheless he secretly ordered his Dyaks to invade 
Sangow ; and bloodshed followed. I, too busy to attend 



76 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

in detail, ordered him to repair this great wrong ; — He 
never did so ; and, about a year and a half ago, numerous 
other cases of barefaced spoliation of Dyaks and Malays 
being brought forward, I removed him from Sadong, and 
with the consent of the Brune Rajahs placed his brother 
Abang Leman in charge. Abang Leman is as foolish as 
Bandar Eassim, weak and imbecile, and the change was 
not attended with good. Leman, if he had had the will, 
had not talent nor resolution for the task. A year ago 
I allowed the Bandar to return to Sadong to Uye 
privately. Both he and Leman before lived at Sarawak 
at least half their time, being married to the Datu 
Patingue's niece and daughter. Bandar Kassim returned 
to Sadong ; and now I hear anew that he is tampering 
right and left with the Dyaks, coaxing some, intimidating 
others, interfering with our border Dyaks, and organising 
a fresh attack on the Sangow people, — thus undoing all 
that I have done to put an end to the intertribal wars, 
and to cure the Dyaks of their propensity for head-taking. 
Already has the former assault got up by him caused 
retaliation on one of the Sadong tribes ; already the 
whole fabric is endangered ; and it can be preserved by 
the strong hand alone ; and all this the work of an idiot, 
with a little cunning. I contented myself with writing 
an order for Bandar Eassim to appear before me, and a 
second letter to Pangeran Paduka, the ruler of that part 
of the Sangow country, on the Dyak business. Thus I 
await events. But Bandar Eassim has reached the end 



SHERIFF MOKSAIN. 77 

of his tether, his time of grace is past ; the measure of his 
crimes is full, and he must be restrained or brought to 
trial. Sadong must have a Govemment, the Djaks must 
be protected, and some revenue raised for the Itajahs 
of Brun^. 

" 18th, Friday. — My day of rest ; the Mahommedan day 
of prayer. I made it quite a day of ease, but in the 
evening had a large assembly. 

" The Orang Eaya, Tumangong of the Sibuyows settled 
at Samarahan came, about the dreadful murder per- 
petrated on a family of his tribe in that river some 
months ago, during my absence, when three out of the 
four men suspected made their escape from our prison, 
afler being apprehended. I promised him to catch the 
men again, and bring them to open trial ; and this very 
morning I had heard of their being at Ealuka and 
Sakarran. The repeated complaints of the Malays at 
Sakarran against Sheriff Moksain (or Hussein), and 
his complaints against them, determined me to send 
Cruikshank and Charlie Grant to inquire into the matter. 
One thing appears certain, namely that, whoever may 
be right and whoever wrong, the Government I had 
proposed under this Sheriff is a dead failure; he is 
at strife with the people and the people are at strife 
with him. 

"Talking afler dinner of fishing, the Orang Eaya 
Tumangong just mentioned, declared there were more 
fish in the Sampun than any other river on the coast ; 



78 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

and speaking of particular kinds of fish he related the 
following story. 

" The Sibujows never eat the puttin, on account of an 
old tradition in their tribe. * One day a Dyak was fishing 
and caught only a single puttin, which he gave to a 
Malay at whose house he landed to procure a light for his 
pipe. On his coming back to get the fish, the fish was no 
longer there ; but crouched in the bottom of his canoe 
was a pretty little girL The good Dyak was greatly 
astonished at this transformation, but carried the little 
girl home, where she was brought up with the fiamily, and 
grew to be a woman; and in due course married her 
finder's son. No pecuKarity was observed in her conduct; 
she was like any other Dyak woman, and made a good 
wife ; she pounded the rice, drew the water, made mats, 
and conducted the affairs of the household with propriety 
and neatness. After a time she bore her attached 
husband a son, and suckled the boy till he could run 
about ; when one day, being at the edge of the water 
with the boy and her husband, she suddenly said to him,' 
* Here, take the child ; be kind to him for he is my child ; 
I have been a good wife, but I must now rejoin my own 
tribe ; ' and thus saying she plunged into the river and 
became once more a puttin'. 

" I then in turn related the story of the cat turned 
into a Princess; other traditions both of Malays and 
Dyaks followed, and it was twelve o'clock when I went 
to bed. 



SUNDAY AT SARAWAK. 79 

" 1 7th. — Yesterday was a day of penance for my late 
hours. 

" Cruikshank, Charlie Grant, and Lee, started for Sakar- 
ran at two o^clock. It is the first time Charlie has gone 
from me, since he joined three years ago ; but it is right 
to make him independent, to burden him with responsi- 
bility, to let him judge for himself. The higher and 
nobler exercise of duty is not to be acquired in a 
dependent post. 

"In the evening, not feeling well, I stayed in my 
own room, though we had a small party ; at night the 
flood of moonUght poured over the vegetation, and 
lighted up tree and shrub. The voyagers were no doubt 
making the best of it, and enjoying themselves. I almost 
envied them. 

" 1 8th. — Yesterday was Sunday. I went to church, and 
was pleased at our congregation and the service; with 
the attention and interest which all seemed to take in 
what was going on ; and with the little Chinese children, 
and the other little children, neither EngUsh, nor Chinese, 
nor Dyak, and yet innocent Uttle children too. 

" McDougall preached on the Lord's Supper. 

" 19ih. — How pleasing is this life of usefulness and 
repose I and each day, as I stay here and reduce business, 
its pleasures are enhanced. 

" The moderately early rising (half-past six or seven) ; 
the reading, sometimes serious, sometimes light, sometimes 
in train, sometimes desultory, before ten ; then breakfast. 



80 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

writing, or private interviews till twelve. Office for two, 
three, or more hours ; sometimes the gentle nap induced by 
a dull book ; the freshness of the evening, with its 
stroll, or ride ; the quiet dinner, and the native crowd 
and conversation afterwards till ten, p.m. ; then my own 
room, book, thoughts, and bed; and, as I lie down, I 
feel grateful for many blessings, and close my eyes with 
confidence. 

" After breakfast I had a case in Court, which, being of 
a pawnbroking character, I decided in an off-hand manner, 
much to my satisfaction. 

" While I was in Court Sheriff Muller arrived ; but it 
being two o'clock, and feeling suddenly quite out of order, 
I returned home and laid myself down, ^ind read of all 
the injuries which insects inflict on man ; and this made 
me more squeamish than before. I often feel these 
sudden fits, half faintness, half sickness, come over me for 
a time. 

" In the evening I had Sheriff Muller and the other 
sheriffs from Sakarran, looking miserable and silent. 

" 20th. — In the morning I met the writers of the Com- 
pany, who said all that was proper to be said, and duly 
appointed Atiow to be Captain China, whilst, on my part> 
I appointed Steele Captain Inglis. These two Captains 
will transact all the business between the Eimsi and the 
government, and between the Eunsi and the Dyaks. We 
shall know where the Chinese live, how many there are, 
and what the general feeling is. If our captain is a dever 



SUICIDE. 81 

young fellow, he will gain the confidence of the Chinese in 
the interior, and thus smooth our path. This is the first 
and great step. The agreement was re-written and 
re-read, and ratified. AtioVs appointment is satis- 
&ctory; for, though he cannot live many months, yet 
he is an honest and fair man, speaks Malay well, 
and has the confidence of all parties. Opium-smoking 
is his bane. He is shrivelled, tottering, and with lungs 
affected. 

" I had a long talk with Sheriff Muller (or properly 
and henceforth Mullah). The complaints against Sheriff 
Moksain are numerous, and I fear too well founded. 
Sheriff Mullah I rather like ; and people say he was 
always a kind man at Sakarran, and passive rather than 
active as a pirate. He took what came to his share, but 
did not originate the system; nor did he endeavour to 
check it. His brother. Sheriff Sahib, was the active 
power. 

" 22nd. — Court business, but not important. McDougall 
came down to say that a Chinaman, who had poisoned 
himself, lay dead at his house, and that none of his 
relations would bury him. What was he to do 1 
Hereat I waxed indignant, sent for the relations, and 
dealt roundly with them, so that they buried the corpse. 
It appeared that the man poisoned himself, and there was 
concerned a woman, a silver pipe, and a ring. The 
relations of the deceased declared that he committed 
suicide because the woman had taken the ring and pipe ; 

TOL. IL a 



82 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

but this oause scarcely accounts for the deed ; and pro- 
bably it was a case of love and jealou^. It is all to be 
tried on Saturday. 

" 28th. — Thus far I wrote, feeling in my usual health, — 
weakly, but cheerful : on the 23rd I was ailing shghtly ; 
on the 24th my old enemy the ague returned, and I have 
since been prostrate in strength, though rallying a little in 
health. Under these circumstances I have not hesitated 
in deciding at once on proceeding to England directly. 
Here I am useless : my sickly efforts exhaust my frame ; 
and the claims on my attention daily call for exertions 
beyond my power, I may by this step regain health and 
strength to continue my work ; and the confidence I hare 
in Brooke renders my absence comparatively safe and 
easy. Delay would in all probability bring no fitter 
opportunity ; and thus I turn my face to Europe. 

" The day before yesterday came Bandar Eassim ; 
yesterday arrived Sheriff Moksain, preceded the night 
before by our party. There is enough against both these 
Governors of provinces to smash them a dozen times over. 
Bandar Eassim was always a weak, mean rogue. Sheriff 
Moksain {fydgo Hussein), on the contrary, has abfities, has 
lived near me ever since I had sway in Sarawak, and has 
known me, one would have thought, well enough to know 
the danger of going wrong. The policy was so 
clear and so well defined, that he ought not to have 
missed his way ; a fool might have seen it ; 
but with his eyes open he has taken the flowery 



SHERIFF MOKSAIN'S DELINQUENCIES. 83 

path of wrong, and blown into a great man when 
he should still have been a folded bud. The sheriffs 
and their followers, who had suffered so severely from 
former abuse of power and from piracies, one would 
naturally hare thought he would have made his friends ; 
they were thoroughly humbled, would have been grateful 
for kindness, and were of his own race and class ; these, 
instead of befriending and attaching, he has alienated 
by his haughtiness and assumption of superiority ; and 
nothing marks the man more than the act of placing his 
seal at the head of a letter addressed to Sheriff Mullah, — 
a man of advanced age, his equal in every respect, and 
his superior in native eyes in most. It is an arrogance 
that Sheriff Moksain knew I was never guilty of myself, 
and a style never used by Muda Hassim or others of the 
royal femily of Brune, towards a sheriff of Mullah's rank 
and age. Further than this, however, he has tampered 
with their slaves, ripped up old sores, and not only 
wounded their pride, and injured their interests, but 
he has excluded them from all share in politics and 
government. 

^^ Thus the experiment of government, as far as Tuanku 
Sheriff Moksain is concerned, is a failure ; and there is 
not a man in the Malay Eampong who trusts him or likes 
him. His power, they all say, is his commission from me; 
and that he makes the most unbounded use of my name 
there can be no doubt. The Dyaks, however, the Sheriff 
has propitiated, and how ? By lavishing upon them 

a 2 



84 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

presents of all sorts, to gain their hearts or their voices ; 
but it is doubtful whether he gains their obedience or 
their respect Thus he has played the Dyaks against the 
Malays, — a dangerous game at all times, and in his 
position a fatal one ; for he was originally posted at 
Sakarran to guard the fort, and to prevent the Dyaks 
from going forth. As instances of particular crimes of 
which he has been guilty, I may mention his imjust rule 
of fining men for the smallest &ult : one man he fined 
because he dropped down the river without acquainting 
him -of his intention. He has deprived people of their 
slaves, and made them his own slaves. 

'^ His extravagance has so involved him in debt and 
distress, that he cannot be honest if he would He has 
sold the arms belonging to me, lent him for use in the 
fort; and, worse than all, he has reduced a family to 
slavery, who were declared free in Sarawak. Away with 
him t he is convicted ; he has broken by his misrule the 
net of good goverment which I am trying to establish ; 
and he must be removed. 

" Fortunately, through all this year of misruie and mis- 
conduct, the Malays of Sakarran have behaved with great 
patience and forbearance ; and the Dyaks have shown 
every wish to continue peaceful, and to abandon their 
piratical habits. 

" All alike cry out for the government of a European ; 
and a European they shall have, if I can find out the 
way. He, or rather they (for there must be two) are to 



REFLECTIONS. 85 

live as best they can for the first two years ; after that 
time there will be no difficulty ; the country will develop 
itself : trade will increase ; and the revenue will support 
a small establishment 

" Had I always resided at Sarawak, this evil would not 
have happened; but, again, had I always resided at 
Sarawak, the chance of forming a good government in 
Sakarran might never have occurred. Were I strong 
now, I might remedy it more easily. Again, my absence 
wiU give stability to Sarawak and Sakarran, — ^if the 
governments be successful, — which, if established by my 
personal influence alone, they would not possess. So 
there are reasons pro and con : but certainly, in r^ard to 
permanency, it is to be best insured by tmnsferring my 
mantle during my life, in a great degree, to my successor. 
The change then will be natural and easy at my death ; 
and that it may be so is one great object I aim at, and 
which I pray Grod may grant. Alas! in this life we 
cannot do the best we wish, but the best we can ; and 
thus, so weak and ill as I feel, the return to Europe in 
search of health is the most prudent step I can take ; and, 
oh ! how many thousands are there, who would be sur- 
prised to hear the small yearly sum I can allow myself 
for my regal ea^penses. 

^^ I had a quiet dinner with the McDougalls, and enjoyed 
their conversation in the evening, lying on the couch. 
It is always sensible, elegant, and soothing. 

" 29th. — I felt better in the morning, after a night of 



86 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

rain which came down in a quiet, unpretending deluge, — 
very diflferent from your gusty showers. I listened at 
intervals during the night, and turned and slept undisturbed 
by the pattering on the roof. 

^^ Afler breakfast came Abang Eapi, Abang Ain Gasin, 
and some fine young Dyaks, a son of Pa Limbang's 
amongst them, from Sakarran. Gasin I always liked; 
he has quite regained his influence, and certainly likes us. 
There is nothing radically evil about these Dyaks, though 
their rage for head-taking is a bad one ; but this must end 
in time. Piracy on the high seas was taught them by 
the Malays, but they learned the art mc^e easily irom the 
cranium propensity. I spoke to these men of good 
government, of peace, and security, and prosperity ; of 
Sheriff Moksain's failure, of my little desire to force 
any government, far less any particular form of govern- 
ment, upon them : that I would put a European or two 
amongst them to govern properly, and to show and 
remind them of what was right, if they did wrong ; but 
not to interfere with their customs or religion. I said tibat 
murder and theft, and oppression of the Dyaks — piracy 
and evil-doing, hurtful to all men — ^the European would 
put an end to ; and would call and consult with the 
chiefe ; but he would not interfere in the details 
of government, nor harass them with forms and 
ceremonies. 

^^ A European, I added, must have the means of 
living ; and some revenue must be provided to enable him 



PLANS FOR GOVERNMENT. 87 

to meet the expenses of government, however simple. If 

this could be managed at first, there was no doubt that 

time would increase the revenue, as the country increased, 

and that all would be easy and comfortable* 

"This eflFort quite exhausted me, and proved how 

utterly weak I am ; not suffering, but prostrate in 
strength/' 



88 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ABCHIFELAOO. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



OUBIOVB BIRD IH LIBVAM DIBOBIBID— DTAU OF KAHOWIT AHD KATIBA8— MB. BUUB^- 
PABIIOULABS OV HIB MITBDBB — UimBS rBOM TBI KATAV <JHIXn OF BABRAK-^ 
THB KAHAU OB PBOBO0OI8 MOBKBT— CHABAOnB AHD HIBTOBT OF KABBDf^POUOT 

A8 TO SADOHQ BAKABBAH POLITIOS— IHBBIFF MOKBADI — VMDOP DTAU — 

APPBOAOHIBO DBPABTVBl — BSFLBOnOllS — WITBBBAL PBAOB — DTAK HI8T0BIBS, 
FBUDB — THB KATAB TBIBB8, CAHBIBAL8 — DTAIB OF JABKABO, AUO OABBIBAU. 

^' 2nd December. The following description of a bird 
found in Labuan, is curious^ and I relate it as I heard 
it from Low and Brereton* 

" The habitat is in the woods of Labuan, (query— does 
it frequent sandy beaches X) the bird is gallinaceous ; the 
egg of enormous size, in proportion to the body of 
the bird, and this egg is deposited in a hole, which is 
covered over with dry leaves; and the young one is 
hatched without parental superintendence. An egg thus 
found in the jungle was placed in a hole in Low's garden, 
and covered over ; and some days afterwards the young 
bird found his way out, already fledged, and was active 
and lively. I have two of the eggs, and a wretched 
specimen of the bird. The egg is of the colour of a 



MR. BURNS. 89 

rich game-fowl's egg, three inches long, or more, thin and 
pomted, and considerably larger than a duck's — as big 
indeed as a small goose's egg. 

" Still ill and weak, but rallying. Excellent news from 
Eanowit. 

" The Dyaks of Kanowit and Eatibus quite willing that 
a fort should be placed there ; and Eum Nipa^ the great 
Eayan chief, came down himself, and with many pro- 
fessions of friendship, declared his mtention, if a govern- 
ment under a European was established, to move down 
with two thousand families below the rapids, as more 
conyenient for trade ; and thus the Eayan trade of 
the interior would find an outlet. 

" Eum Nipa declared that Mr. Bums had everywhere 
given himself out as my son, and thus Eum Lassa 
had been induced to marry his daughter to him. Heaven 
bless me if I had such a son. or such a relative t" 

* 4c 4c 4c 4c * 4c 

I here interrupt Sir James Brooke's journal to give 
some account of this unfortunate Mr. Bums, who was 
finally murdered by pirates in Maludu Bay. Mr. Hume's 
witness Miles (see Chapter XU.) alludes to him, 
for the sake of complaining that Sir James Brooke had 
removed him from the Bintulu River to Labuan. He 
was a disreputable adventurer; but by means of mis- 
representations, such as Sir James alludes to, he obtained 
in marriage a daughter of one of the chiefe. His 
proceedings are not worth detailing ; but the subjoined 



90 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

letter from the Rajahs of Barram to Sir James Brooke, 
and his reply will give an idea of the mischief which 
unprincipled Europeans may do among people whom 
we are hoping to conciliate, to civilise, and to Christaanise ; 
it will also show what was Sir James Brockets principle 
of acting with such people, and what a salutary effect it 
must have already had on their natural impulses, when 
they refer to him as to a just judge, instead of taking 
the law into their own hands. 

The letters are also otherwise interesting, as specimens 
of such correspondence. 

" Mr. Bums," says Sir James Brooke, in a despatch 
to Lord Palmerston, ^' is the first Englishman who has 
ever visited the interesting and important river** (Barram) ; 
he states also that the conduct of Mr. Bums was the 
same in every place which he visited, and that he would 
have been put to death by the Eayan chie&, had it 
not been for their consideration towards the English, 



THE RAJAHS OP BARRAM TO MR. SCOTT AND MR. LOW. 

'' This letter from yoiu* friends Tamawan, and Tamadin, 
and Tama-itam-Balari, to Mr. Scott and Mr. Low, who 
govern the country of Labuan, &c. 

" This (letter) is in place of a personal conference with 
our friends, and (by it) we wish to inform our friends the 
story of Mr. Burns having entered the country of Barram. 
We were under the impression tliat the reason of his 



THE RAJAHS OF BARRAM. 91 

wishing to visit us was to attend to his trade and business, 
and to deal with us truly in all affairs. We (on our 
parts) were very anzious to trade after the manner 
usual amongst merchants ; but this we inform our friends^ 
Mr. Scott and Mr. Low, that Mr. Bums does very 
treacherously — ^he wishes to take persons' vrives : whether 
they like it or not, he takes people's wives. And also 
Mr. Bums ordered us to kill people who enter the river 
Barram, of whatever description (or race) they be; 
whoever enters, it is good to kill them, saying (Mr. Bums) 
* whatever you want, Tama-itam-Bakri, I will give you ; 
muskets, ten cases with powder and ball; and should 
it ever be inquired into at any future day, I will be 
responsible for alL' Further, Nakodah Gadore told us 
to take the whole matter to Labuan, and make it known to 
Mr. Scott and Mr. Low, but Mr. Bums dissuaded us, 
saying he himself would bring the matter before the 
Court 

(Signed) " TAMAWAN. 

« WHtUn <m the 17ih day of ** TAMA DIN. 

the numih 2MBa^*' « TAMA-ITAM-BALARI." 



SIR JAMES BROOKE TO THE RAJAHS OP KAYAN 

AND EIMEAH. 

" To Tamawan, Tamadin, and Tama-itam-Balari, and the 
other Bajahs of the country of Barram, from Sir James 
Brooke, &c. 

" (CompUments.) 

'* Mr. Scott and Mr. Low have handed to me the letter 



92 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAOO. 

my fnends sent, relating to the conduct of Mr. Bums, in 
the Barram Riyer. I request that in future, whenever 
an Englishman does wrong like Mr. Bums, my friends will 
order him out of their country, and hold no intercourse 
with him ; and should he refuse obedience, or otherwise 
commit crime, or conduct himself badly, my friends can 
act justly and rightly in support of their authority, and 
for the protection of their people. Every English trader 
must obey the Government of the country in which he 
carries on his business ; and wrong doing must be 
punished in every country. I trust in the friendship and 
fairness of the Sajahs of Barram in dealing with white 
men ; but white men in Barram cannot be permitted 
to behave like Mr. Burns, or to commit crimes, or to 
cheat, or to trade unfairly. I hope that my fnends, 
in dealing with white men who come to their country, 
will distinguish between the good and the bad, and 
will not admit any person to their friendship and mtimacy 
until they are assured of his honesty, and that he knows 
how to conduct himself properly. My friends must 
remember that no trader has any authority to speak upon 
subjects concerning the Government of the country, or to 
intrigue, or to spread false reports. Let the traders, 
therefore, in my friends' country, be confined to their own 
business ; and if they represent themselves to be great 
people, possessed of power, or talk as Mr. Bums talked, 
my friends will know that they speak falsely, and are men 
without shame. 



MURDER OF MR. BURNa 93 

" I hope likewise that my friends, over all the country of 
Banram, will remember that if any man comes from Labuan 
or Sarawak, or any other place, and is a bad man, and if 
he deals unfairly in trade, he is no follower of the English 
Groyemment, or of mine. I request my friends will con- 
sider what I have said, and have this better explained 
by many different people. And let my friends Tamawan, 
Tamadin, and Tama-itam-Balari confide in my friendship, 
as I confide in theirs, so that the two countries of England 
and Barram may be as one coimtry. I have received my 
friends' presents, and send, as a small mark of remem- 
brance, some red cloth. Mr. Scott and Mr. Low send 
many complunents to my friends." 

The following are the particulars of the murder of 
Mr. Bums by pirates. 

He was engaged at the time on a trading voyage, in the 
Dolphin schooner, which sailed under the British flag, the 
crew comprising, besides himself as Supercargo, and his 
Captain, Mr. Robertson, ten Javanese seamen, one Ser- 
cung Kreemon, and three Jurumudies, in all sixteen 
persons. They had been up a river in Maludu Bay, 
and had got outside on their return, when about noon on 
the 10th September they observed two small prahus pulling 
towards them. On nearing, their crews said they were 
traders. There were eleven persons in the two boats that 
went alongside, six of whom got on the deck of the 
schooner. They were Lanuns. Mr. Bm*ns told them to 
stop until he came to an anchor, which he presently did. 



94 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

They brought some samples of tortoiseshell, camphor, and 
pearls. They aaked for rice and fish, which was giyen 
them. No business was done that day. At night they 
went into their own prahus, and held on asteriL A third 
prahu, in which was Sheriff Hussein, came off. In the 
morning, at about seren o'clock, ten men again went (m 
board from the prahus. Mr. Bums was aft^ on one side 
of the deck ; the Captain (Robertson) was walking the 
deck on the other side ; the crew were forward, getting 
ready a new jib-boom. 

The Malays then handed up a roll of matting, 
supposed to be for trading, but in which were con- 
cealed their swords. Their chief, Memadam, was talking 
to the Captain. Mr. Bums, sitting down near the wheel, 
was examining some pearls, when Memadam, snatchmg a 
sword from out of the bundle of matting, attacked the 
Captain, while one, '^ Si Brahim,^ at the same moment 

made a chop at Mr. Bums, nearly severing the head 
from the body. The remainder of the Lanuns then 
seized their arms, and made an attack on the crew. 
Mr. Robertson, having received a cut over the fiuse, 
ran forward, and got out on the bowsprit — ^where he 
was speared, while begging that his life might be spared, 
and fell into the water. Such of the crew as were forward, 
with the exception of one jurumudie, who was murdered 
on deck, then jumped overboard. Mr. Bums's servant-boy 
was cut down near the foremast. The Captain's nona, a 
helpless woman, was cmelly butchered in the cabin, when 



MURDER OF MR. BURNS. 95 

they nearly severed her head from her hody. One 

of the Javanese seamen was speared in the water. The 

remainder of the crew were swimming about for nearly 

an hour, when the pirates called out to them, "Will 

you sail the ship and Uve, or refuse and dieV' On 

which they all went on board. At first they had their 

hands tied, but were afterwards released to get the vessel 

under weigh. 

Sheriff Hussein, of Maludu, was on board the Dolphin at 

the time of the attack, and helped himself to a variety of 

articles, before quitting the vessel. This was the same 

young chie^ whom I mentioned in a former part of this work, 

as having come on board the McBander in Maludu Bay, on . 

which occasion he told a plausible story to Sir James 

Brooke. * After they got outside, they threw the bodies 

of Bums, his servant-boy, the nona, and the jurumudie 

overboard. They then mounted the guns, and got up the 

arms, which had hitherto been stowed in the hold, and a 

strict watch and guard was kept night and day. They 

always anchored at night. On the ninth day after leaving 

Maludu Bay, they arrived in the mouth of the Beng-gaya 

Eiver, in Labok Bay, and saluted the chief, "Sheriff Yassin," 
whom they styled " RajaV with seven guns. The Sheriff 

then sent a boat on board, and demanded whose vessel it 

was ? One of the pirates rephed, " It is our vessel" The 

SherifiTs men then said it was Tuan Bums's vessel; to which 

they replied, " No, it belongs to another European." 

* See Chapter iv. 



96 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

It appears that several of the pirates, aa well as some of 
the Dolphin^ s crew, were frequently on shore. 

The second day after their arrival, twenty-four of the 
Sheriff's men went on board. One of them said to the men 
belonging to the DolphiUy ^^ We are sent to take the vessel 
from the Lanuns ; if they do not give it up we will kill 
them, so keep clear.** The pirates, however, said they 
would obey the Rajah's orders, and were taken ashore. 
The schooner was then taken possession of by Sheriff 
Yassin's men. 

When the pirates appeared before Sheriff Yassin, he said 
to them, " You must give me up the vessel'* They repKed, 
, ** No, it is our good fortune, we will not give up the vessel" 
On this the Sheriff drew his kris, and killed one of them, 
named Urow ; and another named Te Ejrabow was imme- 
diately killed by the Sheriff's people. Four others were 
seized, but were claimed afterwards by a Soloo Datu, who 
took them away. Memadam, the Chie^ who is a Lanun 
belonging to Tungku, succeeded in escaping into the jungle. 
When the Dolphin^ s men came on shore, the Sheriff desired 
one of them, Eamoo^ to cut off the dead pirates' heads, 
which he did, while his companion, Sawall, held their 1^ : 
although their bodies had been nearly hacked to pieces, 
their faces were not touched. Sheriff Yassin said, ^' These 
men (pointing to the two dead bodies) were murderers : 
take their heads, and preserve them either in salt or gin, 
and take them to Labuan, as an evidence that I have 
assisted the Europeans." 



SERIFF YASSIN'S KINDNESS. 97 

It was about six weeks after this that the H. C. S. Pluto 
appeared in the bay. She was on her way to the east 
coast of Borneo, with Mr. Spencer St. John, who was 
acting commissioner in the room of Sir James Brooke ; 
they had called in Maludu Bay, where they heard of what 
had occurred. They had some diflBculty in finding Beng- 
gaya. 

The young SheriflF Yasain's conduct appears to have been 
very praiseworthy. The Dolphin^ and everything belong- 
ing to her, was given up to Mr. St. John. The decks were 
still stained by the blood of the victims. The cabin doors 
he had caused to be nailed up, and had kept a strong 
guard on board to protect her from the Lanuns, who wished 
to recapture her. She had been at Beng-gaya forty days, 
during which time Yassin supplied the crew with pro- 
visions, kc. It is to be hoped that poor Yassin will not 
suflFer for his temerity, as Beng-gaya is but a short 
distance from Tungku, one of the principal strongholds of 
the Lanun pirates. A useless demonstration of our naval 
forces appears since to have been made at Tungku, which 
has called forth the threat of a descent on our settlement 
at Labuan, similar to that made by the Soloos on Balam- 
bangan m 1775 ; and it is not impossible that they may 
do it with equal success. 

Mr. Bums had been several times on the north-east 
coast of Borneo for trading purposes, and was incredulous 
as to the existence of pirates in that quarter. He would 
thus appear to have fallen a victim to his confidence in the 

VOL. n. H 



98 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

native character, which led him to neglect the pre- 
cautions so necessary in visiting all those localities d 
the Archipelago, where European influence is not firmly 
established. 

This will be as convenient a place as may occur for 
adding two other letters from the Eayan and Einneah 
Rajahs, written in answer to communications from Sir 
James Brooke, professing his desire that friendly relations 
should be established, and commerce with their river 
promoted. He likewise had requested them to desist 
from making hostile incursions into the territories 
of the Sultan of Brun6, against whose people they 
i had long carried on an intertribal war. These chiefs, 
inhabiting a river rich in commercial produce, are repre- 
sented as being powerful and independent, and, as 
Sir James Brooke observes, the frank and manly 
character attributed to them is confirmed by these very 
characteristic letters : — 



RAJAH TAMAWAN OF BARRAM TO SIR JAS. BROOKR 

" This is from Tamawan, who is Rajah in the country 
of Barram, to the Rajah (Sir James Brooke) who holds the 
government of Labuan, &;c. &c. 

" Your friend Tamawan informs you, that the letter 
which was brought by the Nakoda Godore was received 
with great honour, and saluted with twenty-one guns ; 
and fiirther, in regard to what the Rajah says in that 



THE RAJAHS OF BARRAM. 09 

letter about the killing people at Limbang, Totong, Belawit, 
and Meri, the reason of it is that they killed our people 
formerly ; but now that we have heard the contents of 
the letter of our friend, the Rajah, our friend need not be 
under any apprehension that we shall kill them any more, 
for we have agreed ; Tamawan, who is Rajah in Barram, 
and all his people and chiefe of the villages Paku, Buang, 
&c. &c., all these follow, both for good and for ill, 
Tamawan's government ; but for other people, as those 
of the villages (or tribes) of Panah, (here follow twelve 
or fourteen very hard names) these are the names of 
those who are not under the government of Tamawan, but 
in the country of Barram ; so that if these people intrigue 
or kill, Tamawan cannot be answerable, because they are 
not under his government. 

" If they (his own people) do wrong or kill, Tamawan 
will be answerable that they shall abide by the decision 
of the Rajah, with whom he will establish frendship in all 
truth. At this time Tamawan has very little time for 
consideration, because, he is making a farm at a river 
named Babiong, in the middle of the Barram country. 
As regards our friend the Rajah having ordered Nakodah 
Mahomed to visit his friend Tamawan, we were not able 
to meet him ; but our wife named Bubong did, and sent 
two hundred birds' nests, a shield, a sword, a spear, and 
other weapons. 

" Thus Tamawan was not only himself of true heart 
towards the Rajah, but this feeling was also shared in by 

H 2 



100 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

his wife, who sent these presents. We have nothing now 
to send but a sword, a spear, and a shield. 

" Written on the 1 7th Sawal, on Monday, at 7 o'clock 
1265. A. H.'' 



RAJAH TAMAL OF BARRAM TO SIR JAJS. BROOKE. 

" This letter (is) from your friend Rajah Tamal, the 
nephew of Akam Sassa, and whose wife is the sister of 
Tama-itam-Balari, and who is the Rajah in the river of 
Barram, which sovereignty has descended to him from his 
ancestors. 

^^At present (this time) Tama-itam-Balari is also a 
Rajah, but it is Tamal who manages both good and bad 
affairs between Kayans and the people of Brune. With 
regard to the Rajah's (Sir J. Brooke) letter which 
Nakodah Gadore brought, it has arrived at Barram, where 
it was received with great dignity and honour, and under 
a salute of twenty-one guns. As to the matter of the 
kilUng, Tamal and Sing-owdin, and Tama-itam-Balari, 
together with all the people of Barram, wish to agree, so 
there may no more be killing either of the people of 
Limbong, Totong, Belawit, or Meri. The reason why we 
have formerly killed the people of those countries is, that 
they in the first place killed our people. Now Tamal and 
Sing-owdin Uve at one place ; and Tamal sends to his 
friend the Rajah (Sir J. Brooke) one sword, one spear, 
and a hat, with his compliments in thousands. Tama- 



PROBOSCIS MONKEY. 101 

itam-Balari sends to his friend the Rajah one sword, 
one throwing spear, one hat, and one jacket made of 
leopard skin. 

"Written on the festival-day, the 10th day of the month 
Sawal, at 12 o'clock, 1285. A. H. These are all the 
things your friend Tamal has sent by Nakoda Gadore." 



SIR JAMES BROOKE'S JOURNAL CONTINUED. 

" I resolved too, to place Brereton at Sakarran, if he would 
undertake this arduous post. 

" I have before mentioned at some length the Kahau 
or Proboscis Monkey, and this accomit is confirmed in 
almost every particular by an examination of seven live 
specimens brought in yesterday. Five of these are 
females, and two male animals, one ftill grown but not 
old, the other half grown. The colouring of these two 
males is the same as that of the females, and wanting in 
the variety of colour of the large male I before described. 
Their noses are the same likewise as the. females, — a 
lump of flesh sticking out nearly at right angles from the 
face ; whereas the large male had an enormous nose, 
which after death hung loose and flabby on the face. The 
brickdust colour of the face is decided. The leaves, fruit, 
and flowers of the Podada are their favourite food. Their 
dispositions are remarkably gentle ; and though the most 
active of their active class, they are somewhat stupid. 
The hands are grey, not black ; the eyelashes fine and red, 



102 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

and not easily discerned. The nose has an indented line 
down the centre, and I think, as the animal grows older, 
becomes flaccid and drooping, as in the male I have 
mentioned. I judge so from an elderly lady of the 
group. 

" 3rd. — One of my happy family, the large male, was 
found dead this morning, probably having received a 
mortal injury from the attempt to escape ; but a female 
with a young one, and a smaller female supplied his 
place. The captors declared that the large males were 
too cunning for them, and would not, like the unsus- 
pecting females, wait till daylight, but marched oflF in 
the dark. 

" I rose not quite so well as yesterday ; but had a long 
conversation with Eassim touching the Milikin Dyaks. 

" This fine tribe, now inhabiting Sadong, was originally 
connected with the Sibuyows ; and both these tribes, as 
well as the Serebas and Sakarran, have a common origin, 
and descended to the coast from the interior of the 
Eapuas River. The Sibuyows locating themselves near the 
sea have become a maritime people ; whilst the Milikin, 
settling in the interior, know nothing of the ways of the 
great deep, and navigate nothing larger than a canoe. 
The Serebas and the Sakarran, like the Milikin, were an 
inland people, ignorant of seafaring, until the Malays 
taught them that art and piracy at the same time. 
Serebas showed the way ; Sakarran, which was a depen- 
dency of Kaluka, remained peaceful till the advent of 



KASSIM AND MILIKIN. 103 

Sheriff Sahib's father ; when they were initiated in these 
two accomplishments. 

" In Sheriff Sahib's time they were perfect masters of 
the trade ; and now I hope they will gradually lose the 
practice of piracy, without abandoning their character as 
good and bold seamen. 

" It is remarkable, however, that whilst the Dyaks of 
Sakarran devoted themselves to piracy, the Dyaks of the 
Batang Lupa, living in the same country, never became 
addicted to this vice, and continued a quiet agricultural 
race. The Kumpang and other Dyaks of this branch of 
the river may be esteemed, therefore, as representing 
what the Sakarrans likewise were, about forty or fifty 
years ago. 

" To return to Eassim and Milikin : — He is a great 
favourite of mine ; warm and sensitive in temper, grateful, 
willing, hard-working, gay, yet with excellent sense, and a 
degree of proper pride which is often wanting in men of 
higher standing and rank : and yet Eassim is a gentle- 
man by descetit as well as in feeling. His history is 
curious : — Having become an orphan when a mere child, 
he fell into the hands of the Datu Tumangong, his relative, 
and was not over-well treated. At the outbreak of the 
rebellion, he followed his cousin as a matter of course, 
being then about twelve years of age ; and about a year 
before my arrival in the country, whilst in a canoe fishing 
with two other boys, he was set upon by a boat with half- 
a-dozen men of the opposite party ; his two companions 



104 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

^ere killed, and himself captured. Muda Hassim, he told 
me, was angry at the other boys being killed, but had no 
compassion on him. He was chained without covering, 
and exposed to sun and rain at the entrance of the Balei 
or Hall. Very often he had not enough to eat ; and, even 
in the depth of his misery, he seems to have felt the jeers 
and the threats of the brutes about Muda Hassim, more 
than his physical suflFerings. 'Ah!' Eassim said to me 
but a few days since, when pointing out the spot where he 
was taken, * I never knew before or since what real suffer- 
ing was ; I was worse off than any beast in the jimgle ; 
I was starved, naked, beaten, abused, and threatened, and 
chained down to the floor ! ' Three or four months this 
captivity had endured, when, on my arrival, he was 
removed to the open shed at the landing-place; and, 
though still chained, a bit of cloth was thrown to him 
wherewith to cover his nakedness, and the quantity of food 
was increased. He was right glad to see a white man ; 
and I well remember the poor youth, with shrivelled legs, 
emaciated face, wondering eyes, and swollen body, who 
was a state prisoner. 

" Months more passed away ; till, my influence being in 
the ascendant, I got him released, after many times being 
refused. Eassim was then made over to Abdullah, the 
old Parsee, and went with him to Sincapore in my com- 
pany. In Sincapore he fled to my house greatly alarmed, 
declaring that the old man was going privately to sell him 
as a 'servant! I reminded Abdullah of the penalty 



KASSIM'S HISTORY. 105 

attached to buying and selling men in our settlement ; 
and hinted at his procuring a free passage to his native 
place, Bombay. Kassim continued with me ; returned to 
Sarawak in the Royalist ; and after a few months I begged 
him from the Eajah, and he became a free man, — or 
rather boy, — ^for he was not more than fourteen years of 
age. Eassim after that time Uved in my establishment, 
and did not acquire the vices of Europeans with their 
manners. When grown up, he left me, took unto himself 
a wife, and set up on his own account ; but neither party 
was quite satisfied with this arrangement. Kassim was 
useful, and always in request ; and on his part he had 
become so acquainted with us, that he was always about 
the premises, or on boating excursions, much to the 
neglect of his own business as a small trader : so he came 
back, got a salary, and was attached to the court, where 
he has been very useful ever since. In time, however, I 
was anxious to advance Eassim, for he well deserved it ; 
and not being able to find a better office for him, I gave 
him charge of the MiUkin Dyaks, under the following 
circumstances : — The misery of the Dyak tribe of Milikin 
rose to the utmost height, when they were under SheriflF 
Sahib ; and they were equally ill-used by Bandar Kassim. 
It was the old story over again, — taxation, exaction, 
oppression, slavery ; till, after in vain trying to gain fair 
usage for them, I took them last year under my own 
protection, not intending to derive any benefit but 
to confer it. To protect and manage these poor 



106 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

Dyaks, I appointed Eassim, and he has done it 
right weU. 

" I allot to him the sole right of trade in bees'-wax and 
mats, for which, however, I make him pay a fabulous 
price. He places five of his relations at Milikin to watch 
details, and divides the profits into three shares, two of 
which go to them, and one to himself ; the whole amount 
brings about thirty-five or forty pounds sterling clear profit 

" The revenue of this tribe, when it shall have recovered 
from the immediate effects of oppression, will amount 
to five hundred passus of padi, or in money, three hundred 
rupees, or about twenty-seven pounds sterling ; half of 
which, in justice, should go for care and collection, 
and half I propose to give to the Sultan and Rajahs of 
Borneo, who do not deserve it. 

" If the governors owe something to the governed, if 
taxes be given for protection, then the Government of 
Brun^ deserves nothing ; for their part of the compact 
has not been fulfilled : indeed, for twenty or thirty years, 
they have received payment for what they did not perform, 

" Sadong, like numerous other rivers, has been without a 
government, and though not deserving, the former rulers 
may gain by my placing good men in charge, Mid 
affording security to the harassed inhabitants. This, in 
time, may improve, — by keeping Milikin in my own hands, 
and under Eassim's superintendence, two very good objects 
are gained : — 

" First. It will prevent the Datu oppressing the other 



PLANS FOR SAKARRAN. 107 

Dyak tribes — ^for my Dyaks will be the standard of 
comparison ; and it will enable me to judge what can be 
paid to Brune. 

" Secondly. It will render a good and faithful man 
comfortable. 

" Now let me turn to Sakarran : Sheriff Moksain has, it 
is true, behaved badly and foolishly, and plunged himself 
into debt. There is no excuse for him ; but at the same 
time he has managed the Dyaks well, and gained their 
confidence; and as Gassim and the other Dyaks have 
applied for his services, I am induced to consider it the 
best plan in my power to permit SheriflF Moksain to 
remain at Sakarran under Brereton and Lee. That he 
will be useful I do not doubt ; he is humbled, and by 
moderate prudence he will be able to pay his debts by 
degrees. 

" Brereton's government must get on at first as well 
as it can ; he will not have the difficulties I had to 
encounter at Sarawak ; and, if the income is small, the 
outlay will likewise be small ; and time will improve the 
former more than in proportion to the latter. A certain 
indirect revenue on salt, and a direct revenue firom 
the Dyaks on rice, besides other small items, will bring 
the amount up to two hundred or three hundred, for the 
first few years. Both Brereton and Lee will have a small 
sum yearly to Uve upon ; and out of what they get, and I 
can affbrd to supply, they can pay their establishment of 
half-a-dozen men, and afibrd the Tuanku enough to keep 



108 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

him comfortably. The more they can aflFord to spare him, 
the better servant her will be. 

" After Gassim had left me I had three Undop Dyaks. 
This fine tribe, living in the fine country on the Undop 
River, which is a branch of the Batang Lupar, below 
Sakarran, were attacked some five years ago by the 
Serebas Malays and Dyaks, assisted by a party of Malays 
from Salimbow, in the so-called Dutch territory on the 
Eapuas. They are brave men ; but, being quite over- 
matched, they were broken and driven, part of them to 
Linga> part to Salimbow. These poor fellows had come 
from the latter place, and wanted a letter to Pangeran 
Mahomed, who rules there, requesting him to let them 
return to their own lands. Poor fellows! they got the 
letter, and some clothes, and rice, and salt, to feed them on 
their journey back. In describing their residence at 
SaUmbow, they did not complain of much bad treatment ; 
and, excepting taking away some of their y(mng children^ 
Pangeran Mahomed appears to have behaved well for a 
native. One of them said ' it causes the tears to rise in 
our eyes, when we see the Dyaks of Salimbow plucking 
fruit off" their own trees, or gathering wax from their own 
tapangs (a gigantic tree), and reminds us of our own 
lands, where there are so many tapangs, and such an 
abundance of fi'uit.' Poor fellows! how natural and 
how touching! They Uttle dreamed of the poetry of 
their expressions. 

" * Turn our captivity, Lord, as the rivers in the south.' 



LAST DAY AT SARAWAK. 109 

" * By the waters of Babylon we sat down, and wept 
when we remembered thee, Sion/ 

" It was a hard morning's work, but a good one for an 
inyalid ; though the spirit was wiUing, the flesh was weak, 
and I was exhausted after it. 

"11th December 1850. — Confined to the house, except 
for my evening ride, and feeling very debilitated. It is a 
matter of thankfulness that I suffer so little, and I have hope 
that this weakness will be cured by bracing air. Certainly 
for the last ten years I have led as hard a life in a 
tropical climate as most men ; often a hard life bodily, 
and always a hard life mentally. I crawled over to-day, 
to give a decision in a case of litigation between a KUng 

m 

and a Malay, which had been before the magistrates half- 
a-dozen times. 

" To-morrow the Nemesis will perhaps be here. I feel 
so useless, so unable to do what I am called upon to do, 
that I long to be off* ; but I must visit Labuan before I go. 
I am worn out. 

" Sunday. — The last day of my stay at Sarawak has 
arrived. It is always some Uttle pain to leave the place, 
and yet I feel that change or death are the alternatives ; 
and that, if I desire a prolonged life of usefulness, it must 
be nursed at present. I leave everything quiet without, 
and prosperous within ; and I anticipate no evil, for I 
have great reUance in the stability of the present state of 
affairs, founded on the love of the people. I have faith, 
and I have hope. I beUeve that truth will triumph over 



no A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

falsehood, and order triumph over concision, though often 
and though seriously impeded. This is the tendency of 
God's moral government, and its ultimate end ; and the 
duty of mankind is to advance this end, not by a mere 
praying for and preaching about, and expecting unattain- 
able perfection ; but by a persevering crusade against 
evil — by a steady pursuit and encouragement of what is 
just and good, in reliance on the high and spiritual source 
of all success. 

" As for the doctrine of universal peace in this world, 
how is it that words and folly should ever prevail, as they 
do prevail, over some thousands of civilised and educated 
people ? It obtains credence as a quack medicine is 
taken ; and history teaches us that no delusion is too 
gross for the human mind to receive ; no imposture too 
barefaced for the imaginative weak mind ; and no im- 
postor without his credulous disciples. This peace-impos- 
ture is a great ill, in spite of what Mons. Humboldt 
has said ; it has no practical end, and it impedes the 
practical alleviation of an evil not to be entirely cured. 
Is it not plain to common sense that, whilst there shall be 
crime, and violence, and imposture in the world, there 
will be war ? for war is but a political eflfort of one nation 
to redress the wrongs inflicted on it by another, or 
it is the crime of one nation against another. To talk 
of umpires between nations is to cover nakedness with 
transparent gauze. What umpires or what referee could 
have stoped Xerxes, or Alexander, or Hannibal ? What 



UNIVEKSAL PEACE. Ill 

umpires could have checked the league for the dis- 
memberment of Poland ? Or Napoleon, when he poimced 
on Spain, or marched into Russia ? What umpires could 
have stayed the march of the Czar into Hungary ? It is 
folly, and waste of paper, to deal with it. To talk of 
umpires is to declare that every dispute which arises 
between nations is to lead to a general war ; it is to ag- 
gravate the very evil it talks of curing ; to set nations by 
the ears like bulldogs, and to perpetuate a system of 
meddling with our neighbours' aflFairs. As for the mode 
pursued, to arrive at an impossible end, — I must say 
that the bleatings of this flock would lead one to believe 
that while they are striving to establish peace, they are 
banishing charity from the world, 

" The following is the tale of the Dyaks of Tringus, and 
tribes of Tadan, Kombfe, and Sidin : — 

" Formerly the Dyaks of Sarawak and the Dyaks of 
Sambaa had numerous feuds, which, since my government, 
have been made up or suspended. The Dyaks of Sarawak 
can no longer carry on this intertribal war, being for- 
bidden by the Grovemment, under pain of death. The 
Dyaks of Tadan, under these circumstances, have opened 
up an old feud ; and, making an incursion to the lands of 
the Tringus, have killed one man. The Dyaks of Sidin 
are concerned, having been the guides of the Tadan, and 
deceiving the Tringus man killed. The Dyaks of Kombfe 
are likewise implicated, having allowed the Tadan to pass 
their lands in the excursion, which could not have been 



112 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

made had they refused a right of way. The Tadan have 
thrice made excursions ; the Tringus, not able to retaliate, 
live in dread, and fear to cultivate their grounds. 

" It is demanded that the Tadan should be obliged to 
pay the usual fine for the crime, and be prevented fix)m 
renewing the feud. Let there be peace. If this cannot 
be done, there is no other alternative than to let all the 
Sarawak tribes loose on the Tadan, because this latter 
tribe cannot be permitted to kill with impunity a people 
restrained by their Government. 

"The following is the testimony of three intelligent 
Dyaks from the interior, given during several months' 
residence with us, in the most frank manner to be con- 
ceived, — ^as direct and unimpeachable evidence as I ever 
heard, oflFered sometimes when they were altogether; 
sometimes by individuals apart, in conversation with 
numerous persons. I exammed them myself, and enter- 
tain no doubt of the correctness of these statements, as far 
as their personal knowledge is concerned. The witnesses 
themselves stated over and over again, with the utmost 
clearness, how much they had seen, and how much heard. 
There was such perfect good faith and simplicity in their 
stories, as to carry conviction of their truth. 

" The three men were named Kusu, Gajah, and BJnong ; 
and stated as follows : — 

" ' We are of the tribe of Sibaru ; which is likewise 
the name of a branch of the Kapuas River. The tribe of 
Sibaru contains 2000 (or even more) fighting men 



CANNIBALS. 113 

(tikaman), and is under the government of Pangeran 
Euning, who resides at Santang, a Malay town on the 
Eapuas. We have none of us been up to the interior of 
the KapuaSy where the Eayans live, but they often come 
down to Santang where we meet them. The Eayans are 
quite independent^ very numerous and powerfid : they are 
governed by their own Rajahs, whom they call Takuan. 
Some of these Eayan tribes are cannibals (makan 
manusia), it is generally reported, and we know it to 
be true. 

" ' Pangeran Euning of Santang was at war a few years 
ago with Pangeran Mahomed of Suwite (Suwight), a Malay 
town situated on the Eapuas, between Santang and Salim* 
bow. A large force was collected to attack Suwite. There 
were Malays (Laut) of Santang and Sakadow, and the Dyaks 
of Sibaru, Samaruang, Dassar, and of other tribes ; and 
besides all these, was a party of about fifty Eayans. We 
never heard the particular name of this Eayan tribe, for 
we did not mix with them, nor did we understand their 
language : Suwite was not taken, but a few detached 
houses were captured, and one man of the enemy was 
kiUed in the assault. 

^* * Eusu saw these Eayans run small spits of iron, from 
eight inches to a foot long, into the fleshy parts of the 
dead men's legs and arms, from the elbow to the shoulder, 
and from above the ankle beneath the calf to the knee- 
joint ; and they sliced oflF the flesh with their swords, and 
put it mto baskets. They carry these spits, as we all saw, 

VOL. n. I 



114 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

in a case under the scabbard of their sword& They prize 
heads in the same same way as the Dyaks. They took all 
the flesh off the body, leaving only the big bones, and 
carried it to their boats, and we all saw them broil (pang- 
gang) and afterwards eat it. They ate it with great 
relish, and it smelt, whilst cooking, like hog's flesL It 
was not we alone that saw them eat this, but the whole 
force (balla) saw it. 

" * Men say that many of these interior tribes of Eayans 
eat human flesh — that of their enemies ; most, however, 
they say, do not, and all of them are represented to be good 
people and very hospitable ; and we never heard that they 
ate any other than the flesh of their enemies. It made us 
sick to see them, and we were afraid (takut), horrified 

" * This was not the only time we have seen men eat 
human flqah The Dyaks of Jangkang are likewise 
cannibals. They live somewhere between Sangow and 
Sadong, on a branch of the Sangow Kiver, called Sakiam. 
The Jangkangs had been out attacking the IJngkias tribe ; 
and after the excursion they came to our village with 
several baskets of human flesh, for they had killed two 
men. They cooked and ate this outside our house, but it 
had been broiled (panggang) before. I knew it to be 
human flesh, for I saw one of them turning the hand 
(with the fingers) of a dead man at the fire ; and we saw 
them eat this hand on the bank of the river, close to our 
house. We talked to them about it, and they did not 
make any secret of it. 



CANNIBALS. 115 

" * The Jangkang people, according to report, eat Malays 
or Dyaks, or any one else they kill in war ; and they kill 
their own sick, if near unto death, and eat them. There 
was an instance of this at Santang. Whilst a party of 
this people was staying there, one of them fell out of 
a mango tree, and broke his arm, besides being otherwise 
much hurt ; and his companions cut his throat (sambilih) 
and ate him up. None of us, however, saw this happen, 
but we heard it from the Santang people. It is likewise 
said, but we do not know it for a truth, that, when they 
give their yearly feast (makantaun) a man will borrow a 
plump child, for eating, from his neighbour, and repay in 
kind with a child of his own, when wanted. We do not 
however, know personally anything beyond having seen 
them once eating human flesh ; but we have heard these 
things, and believe them ; they are well known.' 

" SherifiF Moksain corroborated this latter statement 
generally ; as he declared there was no doubt of the Jang- 
kang tribe being cannibals ; but he had never seen them 
eat human flesh ; and Brereton likewise heard of a tribe in 
the interior of the Sadong being cannibals. There is clue 
enough, however, to settle the point ; and, vnthout being 
positive in an opinion, I can only say that the evidence I 
have put down was as straightforward as any I ever beard 
in my life, and such as I cannot doubt, until it be 
disproved.'' 



1 2 



116 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 



CHAPTER XIX. 



SIR JAMS8 BBOOKB YZSITS LABUAH AKD BOBHSO— TBI XUEUTS — XAOOIA'S DIUI- 
QUUrcnS— MISOOTI&infBHT OF BOBNIO— PBOOEB88 OF LABXJAM — IHB MBOA- 
PODIVB, ITS ITBST, ETO. — POUTIOS OF BEUVi — CHAEAOTKB OF XmRDI— OS 
JAMIB BBOOKB LXATBS SARAWAK — BBOBBT SOOIBTin, OR HUt — ^KBASURB 
AOAINST THBX— SAILS FROM SINOAPORB^ADBH — tHR DBSRRT—fiUB— CAIRO— 
ALEXARDRIA — MALTA. 

" BoBNBO, December 24th. — A rough passage brought me 
to Labuan from Sarawak. I was overwhehued with 
business for^three days, and then started for this place, to 
see whether I could do anything to help the unfortunate 
Muruts of Limbang. 

" Driven to desperation by oppression, this unfortunate 

people rose on their brutal tyrants and put some to death ; 

but they cannot hold out against the Bomeans, and 
the treachery of some of their own tribe. Their wives 

and children are yet safe ; but six men and women have 

been killed ; and I fear greater horrors are impending — 

death, plunder, and davery. I think a remonstrance will 

be fiilly justified ; for no civilised man can stand by and 

see such things done ; and all the forms and etiquettes 



MACOTA. 117 

which rule the conduct of states in their intercourse must 
not be permitted to interfere in a case of humanity, where 
a Grovemmerit shadow, like an evil spirit, perpetrates 
crimes of all sorts. It is very certain, likewise, that this 
Government, by force and intrigue, prevents all persons 
from visiting Labuan. This is a direct breach of treaty, 
and must be mended. Macota's finger is in this work ; 
certainly clever, full of schemes, which feul for want of 
honesty, and devices too fine-spun for comprehension. In 
short, I believe Macota would cheat himself if he could 
not cheat any one else ; and his rapacity is as unbounded 
as his sense of right is deficient. Ruin has always followed 
his footsteps, and always will ; and he manages on every 
occasion to involve himself in the ruin he brings on others. 
Had he courage and decision, he would be as bad a man as 
the countries below the wind could produce ; but his 
cowardice and vacillation are redeeming points in his 
character; and he cannot rise to the dignity of a 
thorough-paced viUam, but is a rogue of the first water. I 
see Borneo dwindUng away from misgovernment, and 
I pity it not. 

" Four years ago a fine trade sprung up, when protection 
was insured to the trader ; but this trade has been 
followed by the oppression of the poor natives — the real 
producers — and has died away. Trade under these 
governments is a curse, an immitigated evil, which leads to 
the misery of the producing classs ; but this evil cures 
itself. Trade is driven to an end, and the grasping 



118 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

merchant, to whom hmnan suffering is as nothing when 
balanced against profit, then becomes the unworthy and 
unconscious instrument of good, when the exactions of 
the nobles drive the community to resistance. I see light 
shining amid the dsu^kness whidi prevails on this coast : a 
spirit of passive resistance in many, or most, of the rivers. 
Our Sarawak nakodahs drive a profitable trade, and spread 
the news and the seeds of good government and Sur 
dealing. This is the spirit that must be fostered. The 
Brune Rajahs should be allowed the revenue which 
was their right by custom, but restrained in the exerdseof 
that indiscriminate system of spoliation and Of^iresaion in 
which they delight. This is beyond their comprdieosion, 
beyond their wishes, and, in &ct, beyond their attainment ; 
for some five or six thousand rapacious vagabonds, of high 
blood, scramble for what they can get, to support 
themselves in a life of vicious poverty, and hand-to-month 
indolence. I am weary of dealing with a Grovemment 
without power, without faith, without wit, and without 
honesty. I will guard our rights, and let them plunge 
forward on their career of ruin imder the guidance of 
Macota, the idiotcy of the Sultan, the procrastination 
of Mumein, and the weakness of Muda Mahomed. This 
last family interests me ; and, if I have the means, I will 
snatch them from the burning. The Sultan and the chief 
Rajahs of Brune might be pensioned by a civilised 
Oovemment, or an individual richer than I am, and a 
transfer of their nominal rights might thus be acquired ; 



LABUAN. 119 

but if this wafl done, how pay ? how control the thousands 
of Pangerans, and Pangerans* Pangerans ? It is best to 
leave the diflSculty to be solved by time. 

"I would take charge of the southern rivers from which 
the Sultan has derived no revenue for some fifty years ; 
but to collect and sell the revenue, and arrange the 
internal affairs of these countries, would be troublesome ; 
though I doubt not that some of them, at least, would 
compound for the payment of a fixed revenue to the 
Sultan, on the understanding that they were to enjoy 
a freedom from all other taxation, and a participation 
in the privileges of SarS.wak. Thus much might be done ; 
yet I do not go beyond mentioning this to the Government 
here ; for it would be a troublesome and thankless tasL I 
would do it^ because it would increase the happiness of 
thousands, it would advance commerce, and give stability 
to the right order of affairs. 

" 28th, Labuan. — ^I am on the whole weU satisfied with 
the progress of Labuan, slow though it be ; there is a 
glimmering of confidence amongst the natives of the coast, 
and time will raise the settlement above the obstructions 
cast in its way by the intrigues of Brune. Where was strife 
last year, is now peace and good fellowship, amongst the 
the Buropeans ; trade begins to creep into the place, and 
if there be reliance on right principles it will rise, spite of 
the factious outcry at home, and the ill-will in Borneo. 
Thus much. — I can write no more in detail in my present 
condition. 



120 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

" 29th. — I crossed over to Daat in Nemesis, to witness 
the labours of the wondrous bird Megapodius. 

" Megapodius, or Leipoa, called by the natives by the 
very appropriate name of Menambun (from Tambtm, to 
pile, to heap up). I took the specimen sent to Sarawak 
for a Francolin ; and there is no doubt that it is a gal- 
linaceous bird. 

'' Its nest, or heap, was found close to the edge of the sea 
sand, and was formed over a fallen Aru tree (Cassnarina) 
and covered, but not densely, with shrubs. The pile was 
sixty feet in circumference, by four and a half feet in 
height^ made from the light sandy soil around. At the 
top were eight holes or entrances, irregularly shaped; 
and near one of these holes was the recent scratching of 
the bird. 

'^ About four months ago this same heap was partially 
destroyed by Low ; since which time the birds had en- 
tirely repaired it. We attacked the heap with vigour ; 
and it was soon apparent^ from the size of the living 
roots within, that it is a permanent residence, and that it 
has been inhabited many years ; and this will account for 
the undisturbed state of the ground around, in which 
there is no trace of excavation, nor any disturbance of 
the soil or leaves. Within the heap were not only Uve 
roots of the size of a man's arm, but sea-shells, pieces of 
coral, old seeds from the surrounding trees, and other 
substances. The sea may occasionally rise to the foot of 
the heap, and thus fill up the excavations made ; yet this 



THE MEGAPODIUS. 121 

must be of very rare occurrence, from the nature of the 
trees which flourish close to it ; as the wild Mangusteen, 
and other trees would not Kve, if touched often by salt- 
water. 

"The entrances ran irregularly down into the heap; and 
we therefore commenced our labour on a level with the 
ground, and cut a trench through the mass of rubbish, 
and then opened another trench at right angles with the 
first. Our labour was rewarded by the prize of nine eggs 
in all ; and we saw the debris of some half a dozen or 
more eggs, from one of which the bird had recently 
escaped. In one of the eggs, which was broken by the 
spade, a young bird was found, which in a day or two 
more would have come out : it was Uving but had been 
struck. It was ftdly feathered in ihe egg, and the young 
bird hatched in LoVs egg was also feathered, and began 
to scratch vigorously the moment he was free. This 
leaves but little doubt that the young one scratches its 
way out of the heap, after being hatched, without the 
superintendence of the parents. Six of the eggs found 
were placed with the big end uppermost ; two were lying 
on then* sides, and one was broken in digging. 

" Is this enormous heap formed by many birds or by 
one or two pairs only ? 

" I should certainly say, wonderftil as it is, that it is the 
work of a pair. The huge heap was evidently very old, 
and yet the number of eggs and eggshells, and other 
traces of habitation found in it were very few, if we sup- 



122 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

pose it to be the nest of a flock of these birds. It is 
more likely, therefore, to be the nest of one pair, or at 
most of two; and formed year afl;er year by fresh 
accumulations. Altogether it is an irregular, shape- 
less, ugly, loose mass, which might easily escape 
detection. 

" The bird, as I have described, is of a brown colour, 
a heavy flyer, — ^the tail not above a couple of inches in 
length. The cock bird is represented as slightly tinged 
with a green hue ; the cheeks are naked and red ; round 
the eyes red likewise. The Menambun is found in Labuan, 
and the surrounding islets : it is also abundant in the 
Sulu seas ; but it is said not to be foimd on the mainland 
of Borneo. The eggs, according to the natives, are excellent 
eating, but the birds coarse and bad. 

^^ I must add that the thermometer stood at 88 deg. in 
the holes whence the eggs had been removed ; and, 
allowing this to be two degrees below the real heat» from 
the entrance of the external air, it would give 90 deg. as 
the heat required for hatching. There is certainly no 
heat from vegetable fermentation in the nests that I saw. 

" In the * Moniteur des Indes,' vol. ii.. No. 6, pp. 131 
and 132, is an account of a species of this bird, called 
Maleo, but different from the bird here described, and 
placed in a group altogether new and sufficiently doubtful, 
called Macrocephalon. 

" The brilliant plumage of the Celebes bird, remarkable 
for its * forte bosse derrifere la t^te,' and the very name of 



BRUNfi— ITS SULTAN. 123 

* MegapodiuB rubripes* decides against its affinity with 
our bird. 

"Sunday, 5th. — St. John returned in Nemesis, from 
Brune, bringing with him Nakodah Gradore and Abdul 
Ajak, and their followers. Some two thousand people are 
prepared to leave the city, and take up their residence at 
Labuan, or at the mouth of the Ealeas River. 

" The Sultan, beyond a doubt, is dying ; and with his 
imbecile and vicious life the very pretence of government 
will cease. That he is a weak man, with as small an 
amount of reason as can constitute a responsible creature, 
must be a palliation of his crimes in the sight of Grod ; 
but this very feebleness of intellect has with him leaned 
invariably to evil counsel, to rapacity, oppression, and 
violence. He has been mvariably the tool of the bad, 
never the obedient child of the good. Thus let him 
pass away, pitied and forgiven, but unlamented and 
unhonoured, and another example that weakness in a 
monarch is productive of more suffering to the people 
than vice. 

^' Mumein at the same time lay dangerously ill ; and if 
he likewise dies, the last restraining power will be 
removed, and we shall have aspirants to the throne as 
thick as mushrooms, and as easily trodden under foot. 

" If Brune deserved pity, I would bestow it ; but it is a 
wicked and vicious city, and the seat of a wicked and 
vicious Grovernment. Its downfall must produce good ; 
and its existence has not been dignified enough to merit 



124 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

commiBeration. Now let them remember the noble blood 
that they have spilt ; — ^now let them momn the fate of the 
amiable Muda Hassim, and the gallant Budrudeen ; and 
trace the downfall of their empire to the brutal massacre 
of 1845. 

'* Yet Mumein, until acted upon by Der Macota, was 
a good man, and with some ability and some honesty ; 
but fitter for a merchant than a minister, — ^vacillating, 
and indolent and procrastinating, when called upon to 
act himself: he has now become dishonest, base, and 
intriguing, 

" My letter has released the people of Burong Pinge ; and 
I hope it may save the poor Muruts of Limbang. 

*^ I am weak and ill still ; but the prospects of Labuan 
are cheering ; the Company is one drawback, but we can 
do without the Company soon. 

"January 7th. — A Menambun hen, probably young, 
being not much more than half the size of the specimen 
described in Sarawak. That specimen was of a cock bird, 
from the size. The present one is of a brown — ^less 
marked than a chestnut-brown with red, and less green 
than an olive brown ; on the back and top of the head, 
the breast, tail, &c., slate-coloured; eye brown, par- 
ticularly large and full ; sides of the head naked, reddish ; 
nostrils large and naked ; ditto ears ; wings heavy and 
convex ; legs powerfiil, as described before. The bird, 
however, is a young one. 

" 18th, Nemesis, Jan., 1851. — I yesterday left Sarawak ; 



FAREWELL TO SARAWAK. 126 

and parting at Santobong from Brooke, McDougall, 
St. John, and Crookshank, soon cleared the channel, and 
lost sight of the mountain. At eleven we rounded Datu ; 
and this morning at nine are nearly oflF St. Pierre, the 
Puto Mori of the natives. 

" Farewell, my adopted country. I leave prosperity and 
peace behind ; and if it be that I return no more, still 
what has been done will not pass away with me. 

" I have a great confidence in the ability and judgment 
of my successor ; and the permanency of the Government 
is based on the love of the people to the existing order of 
things. A rising revenue, and yet a very light one, 
will support a simple and unpretending Government ; 
and commerce will flourish by freedom from all restric- 
tions. Farewell then Sarawak, and all the dear inhabit- 
ants it contains ! — some few dear to me from a community 
of mind ; many from their integrity, gentleness, and 
simplicity; most from habit and interest. We may 
moralise on man^s ingratitude ; but I can declare, as far 
as my experience goes, that man is grateful for benefits, 
according to his nature and situation ; and more we ought 
not to expect. He is not an angel ; and those who look 
for a snivelling profession of obligation, or who would 
exact such from him, will be disappointed. Gratitude and 
cambric are not indissolubly bound together, and how 
frightful a burden would obligation to our fellow-mortals 
be, if it entailed on us a necessity for everlasting cant and 
base grovelling. Man is grateful enough ; and those who 



186 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

say the contrary are the very persons who deserve little 
gratitude, even if they conferred a &voiir, which they 
seldom enough do. 

" I was only three whole days in Sarawak ; and during 
that time I had to renew my inquiries into the operations 
of the secret societies amongst the Chinese. When there a 
month before, I called together all the principal men, told 
them I was acquainted with the endeavour to get up a 
Hue or Fue, and warned them of the consequences. The 
Government of Sincapora, which, judged by English laws, 
could not act (I said) against these societies ; but at 
Sarawak they would find it different ; for justice was more 
speedy, and looked less to forms of procedure. 

'^ This and much more I said. Let them beware, I con- 
cluded, and stop in time ; for I should gain evidence 
against them, and should not hesitate to punish so great 
a crime as setting up a secret society to overawe the 
Government, and to terrify their own countrymen. It 
could not, and should not be allowed. 

" On my return I found that the warning thus publicly 
given had had no effect ; and that a few individuals, all 
from SincaporCy were active in enrolling members, and by 
persuasion and threats inducing or forcing the Sambas 
Chinese into the society. An ambassador fi*om a Hu^ in 
Sincapore had come over ; two or three respectable men 
were busy in the cause ; and several of a poorer class were 
active agents and emissaries. In private this was readily 
stated by many of the Chinese, some Sambas Chinese, 



SECRET SOCIETY. 127 

some Malacca Chinese, some from up the country, and 
some Uving at Kuching. 

" This testimony waa given to diflferent persons by 
witnesses not even acquainted with each other, and who 
could have no object in making the statements they 
did. There could not be a suspicion of collusion ; the 
evidence was clear, ccmsistent and conclusive as to the 
general fact and the guilt of particular individuals ; and 
yet not one of these witnesses could be induced to come 
forward in public : they all declared that it was as much 
as their lives were worth ; that I had no power to protect 
them. In Sarawak, in Sincapore, in China, wherever 
the Hue had its ramifications, there they would be put to 
death. The system of intimidation, however managed, 
was complete; and the only option was to allow the 
society to increase and flourish, as at Sincapore^ and 
gradually to assume all the fimctions of government, with 
more than the terrors of government ; or to strike at it in 
its infancy, and to assure the members of the inquisition 
that they were not safe in their own persons, whilst acting 
against others. 

'' I did not hesitate long : I resolved to get rid of a secret 
inquisition, which would subvert government, pollute the 
springs of morality, and shake the very foundations of 
society, even at the expense of the forms of justice. If 
this society were permitted to exist, there was an end of 
justice in the country. To convict by proceeding openly 
was impossible ; conviction would only lead to the simple 



128 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

fact of the existence of an illegal society ; it would not 
end the society, any more than the conviction of one or 
two of its members for crime would deter the others fix)m 
committing the same crime, under the obligation of oaths, 
and from a sense of mistaken duty. The existence of 
this secret society was opposed to the administration of 
justice, and therefore I resolved to strike at the embryo 
of the lurking hydra. I seized two active agents, and sum- 
moned about a dozen others, — ^at the head of them Eayun, 
the ambassador from Sincapore. The court on the fol- 
lowing morning was crowded with Chinese and Malays. 
The datus and the magistrates were present ; and all after 
some consultation agreed with me, the majority wishing 
to go much ftirther. First we had up Kayun, Achin (a 
Sincapore man), and another respectable shopkeeper. 

* I addressed them as follows : — 

" ' I have called the people together on the subject of the 
Hue which the Chinese are establishing in this country. 
We all know what this Hue is ; and if once we let it arise 
amongst us, we shall have two governments in Sarawak, 
the one doing justice and punishing openly in this coun, 
the other dealing in the dark and punishing men secretly. 
This can never be permitted ; and it would be better to 
drive every Chinaman out of the coimtry, than to allow 
them to form a secret society, from which no man would 
be safe. In Sincapore the Hue exists ; but the Grovem- 
ment of Sincapore does not know how to deal vrith such 
societies. 



CHINESE SECRET SOCIETIE& 129 

" * In Sarawak the Government is strong, and these Hu^ 
cannot exist. I have before warned the Chinese to desist 
from forming a Hu^ ; I told them that it would lead to 
great troubles, and that those guilty of entering this so- 
ciety would be punished, and put to death if necessary, to 
deter others. They have not listened to the advice then 
given ; and now they shall see that I am always as good 
aj3 my word ; and this Court, for the sake of all the people 
of the country, will exert its full authority to suppress a 
very great evil In the name of the Court, I tell the 
Chinese concerned that, if the punishment now awarded 
is not sufl&cient, on the next occasion all of them con- 
cerned shall be put to death. Kayun, you are the head 
man of this Hu6 ; you have come from Sincapore as a 
deputy from the society to establish their laws in Sarawak. 
You think you are safe, because you can frighten your 
countrymen from coming forward to give evidence ; but 
you are not safe ; and as you work in the dark against 
this Grovernment, this Government will work in the dark 
against you. As you terrify others, so this Court will 
terrify you ; as you strike others in secret, so this Court 
will strike you in secret. As the head man your crime 
is worthy of death, and therefore prepare yourself. 
Let him be taken to the fort, and there kept till the Court 
decides his final sentence.' 

"The two other men were fined a hundred dollars each ; 
to be put to death if brought up again. 

" Assan and the blacksmith were ordered two dozen, and 

VOL. IL K 



130 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

imprisonment ; the rest were warned and dismissed. 
Kayun's punishment was afterwards commuted to per- 
petual banishment, and a fine of a hundred dollars. 

"I believe the punishment gave great satisfaction 
amongst the majority of the Chinese ; and I believe it 
was just, though arbitrary and irregular. 

" We are often in this world obliged to make choice 
between evils ; and I believe in this case I have chosen 
the lesser evil of the two. 

"A secret society dealing with a strong hand, the 
members of which are bound by solemn oaths, can only 
have had its origin under a vicious government. Here, 
wrongs they have none ; and a few bad men introduce the 
system, to gain power. By degrees they force or frighten 
numbers to join them ; they become a secret govern- 
ment ; their judgments are the judgments of darkness ; 
it is a reign of terror ; an offshoot of helL I am content 
to have crushed it in the bud ; and if an injustice has 
been done, it has been done to prevent a continued system 
of injustice, and to repress a great evil The state of 
Sincapore is a beacon to warn Sarawak. 

" Farewell Sarawak ! Farewell Borneo I Let me cast 
care and business away, and turn my mind to fair Italy, 
and relaxation and mirth, — such mirth as forty-seven years 
can afford, and such amusement as that age can enjoy.* 

" 8th, Feburary 1851.— My stay at Sincapore was un- 



* Persecntioii and bnsinesB, rather than relaxation and mirth, hare been 
Sir James Brooke's lot Bince his return to England.— /T. K, 



EN ROUTE FOR ENGLAND. 131 

marked by any event ; but it is the abiding place at 
present of hatred, malice, and all uncharitableness. 

" I do not trouble myself to note down all the raging 
enmity against myself, the secret treachery of the fair- 
faced, or the weakness of the simpletons. Yet have I 
there many and true friends, men of worth and integrity. 

" The whole band are not worth a thought, and should 
not give a pang to an honest man. It is the struggle 
which every man rising to position must engage in. 

" I fear not, nor do my spirits flag, though my body may 
feul. Yesterday I left this feir spot in the steamer Pekin. 

" 9th, Penang. — Saw the bishop, and Blundell ; and off 
after four hours' detention. Away — Away — Charley 
Grant with me, in a comfortable cabin ; Channon as 
attendant. 

"16th, Point de Galle. — Arrived yesterday after a 

pleasant voyage. Went to the Cinnamon Gardens, for 
want of something better to do ; nothing to see, but how 
corrupted a portion of the population become by the 
influx of visitors. 

" This morning the Hindostan arrived from Calcutta, not 
over-full of passengers ; and consequently we got the 
cabin we had already paid for. At four or five we start ; 
and glad shall I be to leave this hot glaring hole of a 
place. The only thing which interested me was the mode 
by which they prepare the husk of the cocoa-nut into koir 
fibre, for exportation to England. This might become a 
valuable commodity in Sarawak and Labuan. 

K 2 



132 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

" Malta, 17th March, 1851. — Our voyage continued 
agreeably, and we enjoyed uninterrupted fine weather. 
Aden is a frightful and desolate rock ; and the Turkish 
wall, as it is now fortified, is certainly meant to resist a 
European army, and never built to protect the place from 
the wandering tribes of Arabs. Here, again, was that 
hateful, barefaced, impudent mendicancy, generated by 
the regular transit of passengers. We obtained a good 
view of the Babelmandel Straits ; but all the way from 
Aden to Suez the prospect is of that hideous barren 
character, from which my mind shrinks, and which is so 
strongly contrasted with the verdure and luxuriance of 
the far East. The desert is the only interesting place ; 
and there the desolation and expanse, the howling 
wilderness, affect the mind, and impart a degree of 
dreary charm. I liked the desert ships, and the villanous- 
looking Arabs who steer them. Never was contrast 
greater than between Suez and Sarawak ; and wondrous 
is it that habit and association can render the former 
pleasanter to the denizens of the soil than the latter. 
Cairo is a picturesque and Eastern City —emphatically 
so called by travellers. I stood on the citadel, and gazed' 
on the Pyramids ; but I could conjure up no dream of the 
Pharaohs ; and I looked on father Nile, and thought it 
pleasant to discover that there was a river ; and the green 
fields were doubly agreeable to eye and to sense, when 
contrasted with the barren sand. The beauty of the 
Valley of the Nile is felt, on account of the contrast with 



CAIRO— ALEXANDRIA. 133 

the horrible desert. It is on this account fully appreciated, 
and over-praised in relation to other and fairer scenes. 
Looking on the city from the height, or walking through 
its streets, one is struck with the picturesque eflFects ; the 
squaUd, unhealthy,. dirty aspect of men and things. The 
picturesque and the dirty are synonymous terms in a 
traveller's diary ; and the filthy deUght is in perfection in 
Cairo, whether to the eye or to the nose. 

" From Cairo we dropped down to Atfe, the entrance of 
the Mah'moudie Canal, and were there detained for several 
hours, during which I took a walk with Hooker — the 
pleasantest time I passed in Egypt ; the sun shone, the air 
was bracing, the fields were green, and we plucked English 
flowers ! Alexandria is devoid of interest, excepting to 
an interest-hunter ; but it is something once more to 
stand on the brink of the blue Mediterranean. I left 
Egypt with pleasure. In spite of antiquity and association, 
it is a disagreeable country ; a government begun at the 
wrong end ; a wretched and ground-down population ; 
and ships, and armies, and palaces, and manufactures, sup- 
ported by their suflFerings. Here the folks are not beggars ; 
they do not beg, but they demand. * Bukish,' (a present) is 
a universal cry amongst them. Even the sentry at the 
palace-gate rushed at us, musket and bayonet in hand, 
bellowing for ' bukish.' He asked for bread, and I gave 
him a stone : the unsoldierly rascal ! and yet these poor 
miUtary rascals of the Pasha's are to be pitied. Much of 
interest attaches to the politics of Egypt : the country has 



134 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

many capabilities ; but it is not the fertility of the soil, 
nor the produce of the land which will attract us there ; 
but, in case of war, it must be a struggle to attack 
and defend the overland communication with India ; and 
whither may not this lead ? Farewell JEgypt ! I cannot 
leave the land without recording the briUiant starhght 
nights: the atmosphere was surprisingly pure; but 
the cUmate was as treacherous as a cold wind and 
scorching sun could make it. We reached Malta in four 
days and a half ; for the last two it was blowing a gale in 
our teeth, and our arrival in Malta harbour was a reUef. 
Here we bade adieu to many pleasant companions, and 
retired into our quarantine prison on Friday the 14th, 
whence we were this morning released. 

" I am now writing in Dunsford's hotel, and rejoicing 
that I am not exposed to the gale blowing from the north- 
west/* 



ANJER. 135 



CHAPTER XX. 



MJEiUDBR BAILS FOE STDHET— -ANJEB — BATAVIA ROADS — AMERICAN LIBERALITY — 
HOSPITALITIBd AT BATAVIA— OOMMBBCB OV JAVA — VLTING OAKOBS — BAU LAKES 
— ^VOLOAEIO M0UHTAIK8— OOMBA — LOMBOK — SUTTEE — FLOEES — PIRATES AGAIN 

TIMOR — PORT ES8IE0T0N— OOBOUBOH PENINSULA— OANNIBALISM — HABITS OF 

THE NATIVES. 



On the 24th September, 1849, we took leave of many 
kind firiends at Sincapore, and proceeded on a more 
interesting voyage than usually falls to the lot of 
menK)f-war. 

Our orders were, after having removed the garrison 
and stores from Port Essington, to visit Sydney and 
Auckland, and call at the Friendly and Society Islands, 
on our way to Valparaiso. 

The Australian schooner we sent in advance, with 
directions to wait for us in the Straits of Sunda. We 
ran between the Islands of Banca and Billiton on the 
29th, and anchored in Anjer roads on the 1st October. 

Anjer is nothing in itself; a small Dutch town and 
fort ; clean, as most Dutch places are, with a large 



136 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

comparatively dirty-looking Malay village attached, which 
is inhabited partly by Chinese. While wandering about, 
we were invited to enter one of their abodes by a withered- 
looking specimen of the Celestial Empire, who had, as we 
understood, just been fined 8000 rupees for smuggling ; 
he was an opium farmer, and was the only person in that 
district licensed to retail it. A large revenue is raised in 
the following maimer : — In the first place, the Grovemment 
prohibit the wholesale disposal of opium by any one but 
themselves : they then fix a high remunerating price ; for 
instance, — say a chest costs the Grovemment 400 dollars, 
they fix the price at 2000 rupees; they then have an 
auction, and the man who bids for most chests at the 
Government price gets the license (the only one in the 
district) for retailing. By this system an enormous 
revenue is obtained, amounting, I was informed, to a 
million sterling, without the Government having the 
discredit of encouraging the use of the pernicious drug. 
The retail price to repay the farmer being so high, the 
poor labourer cannot aflFord to use it ; he is not, therefore, 
reduced to the pitiful condition in which we see the 
Chinese at Sincapore, as the occasional whiffs which 
he is enabled to enjoy are not sufficient to imdermine his 
constitution. 

The smuggling of opium is easily prevented, as in 
addition to the measures taken by Government, it is 
worth while to the opium farmers to employ look-out 
men for that purpose ; and the farmer being the only 



ANJER. 137 

person who would attempt to smuggle, he is easily 
watched. 

The walls of the forts and Grovemment buildings are 
well whitewashed, and the roofe coal-tarred. The tree of 
Anjer is a striking object ; it is a banyan of great size, 
and grows close to the landing-place. From the summit 
of this tree rises a flag-staflF, from which the handsome 
tri-coloured flag of the Netherlands' Government floats 
gracefully. The communication between the top and 
bottom of this gigantic tree is by means of a succession of 
bamboo ladders. Anjer is the constant resort of vessels 
passing through the Straits of Sunda, and may be called 
the great key to the Eastern Archipelago. Letters left at 
this place, properly addressed, will find their way to any 
part of the world. The boats, which run alongside each 
vessel that passes, are laden with an endless variety of 
fruits, vegetables, live stock, monkeys, birds, &c., to suit 
the different tastes and wants of the outward or homeward- 
bound traders, at a very moderate charge. Boats with 
half-ton casks filled with excellent water are constantly 
ready, and sent alongside on application being made to the 
proper authorities. I imagine this supply of water to be 
one of the little perquisites appertaining to the governor. 

Having despatched the schooner to Sydney by the 
western coast of Australia, we weighed on the afternoon of 
the 3rd. 

Our route to the eastward for the next 3000 miles lay 
between the 6th and 1 0th degrees of south latitude, during 



138 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

which we should pass a succession of beautiful islands, with 
the sea in all probabiUty so smooth that a canoe might live 
in it ; the finest weather ; and the prevailing winds in our 
favour. 

A short run carried us into Batavia roads. On nearing 
this spacious and beautiful anchorage, in which the flags 
of all nations may be seen flying from the mast-heads of 
a variety of vessels, from the prahus- of the Spice Islands 
to the magnificent traders of the United States, you 
are at once impressed with the idea that you are 
approaching a large and opulent city. We passed 
inside the fortified island of Onrust, on which stands 
the great naval arsenal, and took up a berth near the 
flag-ship. 

The ship next to us on the other side happened to be 
one with a cargo of Wenham Lake ice, the master of 
which immediately sent on board to say that the officers of 
the frigate were welcome to as much ice as they liked to 
send for. I have ever found much generosity and honest 
frankness among the officers of the American merchant- 
ships. They calculate, and they guess, and have a fair 
notion of the value of a dollar, and are smart fellows at a 
bargain ; they can spit at a mark, and may occasionally 
deal a little in the marvellous sea-serpent line ; but they 
are very amusing with it all, and liberal : what they offer 
they mean you to accept, and do not expect a retiuiL As 
a shell-collector I have frequently sent alongside their 
whalers, as well as other traders, whence my gig's crew 



BATAVIA. 189 

have generally returned with the full value of anything 
they might have taken to exchange. 

Batavia deserves a great deal more notice than we 
had time to bestow upon it, being the capital of all the 
Dutch possessions in the East, with a mixed population, 
chiefly Javanese, of about 120,000. Like Manilla, the city 
is approached from seaward by a long straight canal, run- 
ning between two massive walls ; and, as there is a strong 
current generally setting out, the easiest way to stem it is 
to land the crew, and let them track the boat. The houses 
near the sea, although large and handsome buildings, are 
used by the merchants for business pm^poses only ; the 
situation is on a swampy flat, and at certain times very 
unhealthy. Even during our short stay in the roads, some 
of those on board did not escape the fatal effects of the 
malaria wafted off* by the nocturnal land-breezes. The 
suburbs, extending over the higher grounds to a distance of 
several miles inland, are most healthy and very beautiful ; 
they present a succession of large handsome houses, standing 
in extensive gardens, and surrounded by cocoa-nut, banana, 
and other trees, whose shade imparts a delightful freshness 
to the apartments. The roads to this part from the coast 
are broad, with streams of fresh water on both sides. In 
these suburban portions are the dwellings of the Europeans ; 
so that the city, which is all activity and animation by 
day, becomes after 4. p. m. as melancholy and deserted as 
if infected with the plague. 

The appearance of a British man-of-war in Batavia 



140 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

roads is so uncommon, that the Mceander at first excited 
considerable speculations as to our intentions ; but 
when we had explained our destination, and that our 
chief object in running in was to pay our respects to His 
Serene Highness the Duke Bernard of Saxe Weimar, 
added to our anxiety to meet the steamer daily expected 
from Sincapore with the European Mail, the explanation 
seemed to be quite satisfactory. Being myself of Dutch 
extraction, I could both evince and excite a little 
natural curiosity ; and in feet we were treated with un- 
bounded hospitality and every kind attention. 

We were first entertained at a grand dinner given by the 
Duke of Saxe Weimar, Greneral and Commander-in-Chief 
of the land forces ; whose example was followed by several 
of the heads of departments. We had dinners and balls 
in rapid succession. Nothing could exceed the kind 
welcome which we received from the whole mercantile 
community, among whom our countrymen stand preemi- 
nent. There was not an officer or a youngster in the ship 
that did not find a home ; houses and carriages were 
everywhere placed at their disposal. The Batavia Races 
took place too while we were there. The higher prizes 
were all carried oflF by one or two good horses of English 
breed ; but as the stakes decreased in value, the races 
were better contested. The course is circular, pretty to 
look at, and tolerably good. The enterprising members 
of this turf club made their appearance in scarlet coats. 
A ball and supper followed ; and these seemed to be 



JAVA— FLYING CANOES. 141 

thought by most of our youngsters the best part of the 
day's proceedings. 

The roads throughout Java are good, and the means of 
posting ample, though it is not easy for a foreigner to 
obtain pennission to roam freely through the country. 

The mail having arrived, with great regret we weighed 
anchor, to prosecute our voyage, having made many 
friends during our short stay. The occasional visit of a 
man-of-war here does much good, and is a gratification 
to our coimtrymen, who thus feel that their interests are 
not neglected. I heard of one British firm alone at 
Batavia having paid in the year Customs' duties to the 
amount of £30,000. 

Java has all the beauty of larger tropical islands, with 
an imcommon degree of cultivation. The run along the 
northern side of the great chain of islands, which form 
the southern boimdary of the Indian Archipelago, was 
interesting in the extreme. 

As we kept the Java coast, the fishing canoes, or 
'* flying canoes of Java,'' as they are not inaptly styled, 
were each morning objects of surprise and admiration. 
They are long, but very narrow — just broad enough to 
enable a man to sit between the gunwales ; the crew 
seldom exceeds four men. They are rendered steady 
by long semich-cular outriggers, one end secured to the 
gunwale, the other to large bamboos awash with the water, 
of the same length as the canoe itself ; and, as they are 
daubed all over with some bright white substance, they have 



142 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

the appearance of huge spiders crawKng over the dark blue 
sea ; which is at the same time strange and picturesque : 
their speed, when propelled by paddles, is very great; 
but, under their large triangular sails, they appeared to 
fly : the crews were very shy, and could not be induced to 
come nearer than was just sufficient to enable us to con- 
template the tempting-looking fish, that kept opening their 
red gills, and flapping their tails in the bottom of the 
canoe. 

Passing Madura and Java^ we came abreast of the 
Island of Bali. This is the only island in the whole 
Archipelago where the two great forms in the Hindu 
religion — ^the Brahminical (the original) and the Buddhist 
(the reformed) — exist together undisturbed. This fact is 
most remarkable, as it is well known all over civilised 
Asia, that in a war which endured for ages, and desolated 
great regions. Buddhism was exterminated by the 
Brahminical worshippers ; but here the two religions subsist 
peaceably imder the same Government Had they 
quarrelled, the Mahomedans would undoubtedly have 
made use of their animosity, in order to complete their 
schemes of conquest, as they have done in all the neigh- 
bouring islands. The Balinese are an independent, and 
comparatively civilised race, and very jealous of the 
encroachments of their powerful neighbours : the conse- 
quence is that Bali has been the scene of two campaigns ; 
in the first the Balis had some advantage ; in the latter 
they were reduced, but by no means humbled. Never- 



BALI— LAKES. 143 

theless they are in a fair way of becoming a Dutch 
dependency, or, as our Yankee friends would say, of being 
annewed, 

Bali has a remarkably high peak; and, from the 
situation in which we viewed it, the island looked like one 
large mountain sloping out into extensive and rich plains. 
It has inland lakes, or reservoirs of water, situated several 
thousand feet above the level of the sea. These lakes 
all contain excellent fresh water, and are said to have 
tides whose rise and fall correspond with that of the sea. 
This is " curious if true." The lakes are of great but 
irregular depth. In some parts, bottom has been found at 
from forty to fifty fathoms, and in others, it is said that no 
soundings can be obtained at the depth of several 
himdred. 

These lakes must very much resemble that which we 
discovered in the Island of Cagayan Soloo, except in the 
alleged rise and fall of tide. They contain water sufficient 
to irrigate the inhabited parts of the island, with Uttle 
trouble or expense to the natives; and, however much 
water may be drawn from them, they never appear to 
decrease ; so that these lakes form the riches of Bali, a 
country where there are no great rivers ; and without them 
it is evident that so great a population could not be 
maintained. The soil produces two crops in the year ; and, 
as we passed along, we perceived an abundance both of 
cattle and vegetables. 

In the course of our run we passed numerous volcanic 



144 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN AEOHIPELAGO. 

mountains ; but when in the 123rd 
islands attracted our particular at 
Comba, of a conical shape, had 
up vast volumes of smoke : afte 
at the distance of a few miles ( 
side, we observed the burning lava 
air, as well as boiling over the r 
immense hquid masses ; the red h 
the side of the mountain, and losiu 
until it reached the sea. 

The next island in our course wi 
to ihe northward of it. Its ml 
their subjects are Mahomedtm. Ai 
to some of my readers to know th 
which the Hindu practice of Suttee 
the following extract on the subjecl 
the Indian Archipelago." The p 
of Mr. TeUinger ; — 

" On Lombok, wives may suflfer I 
after the death of their husbands— 
to it. They have the choice of all 
burned or krised ; the first is the : 
of the Bajahs, however, suffer the 
Having been present at one of thei 
will relate how it was conducted. 

" The gusti, who died at Ampani 
of them would let herself be krist 
that against the will of all on bo 



W IDOWS— SELF-IMMOLATION. 145 

The woman was still young and beautiful ; she had no 
children. They said to me that a woman who, under such 
circumstances, suffered herself to be killed, had indeed 
loved her husband. She intended to accompany him 
on his long journey to the gods, and she hoped to be his 
favourite in the other world. 

" The day after the death of the gusti, his wife took 
many baths ; she was clothed in the richest manner ; she 
passed the day with her relatives and friends in eating, 
drinking, chewing of sirih, and praying. About the 
middle of the space before the house, they had erected 
two scaffoldings or platforms of bamboo, of the length of 
a man, and three feet above the ground. Under these they 
had dug a small pit to receive the water and the blood 
that should flow. In a small house at one side, and 
opposite these frame-works, were two others entirely 
similar. This house was immediately behind the bali bali. 

" At four o'clock in the afternoon, men brought out the 
body of the gusti wrapped in fine hnen, and placed it on 
the left of the two central platforms. A priest of 
Mataram removed the cloth from the body, while young 
persons hastened to screen it from the public gaze. They 
threw much water over the corpse, washed it, combed the 
hair, and covered the whole body with ch&mp&k& and 
k4n&ng& flowers. They then brought a white net. The 
priest took a silver cup filled with holy water (called chor) 
on which he strewed flowers. He first sprinkled the 
deceased with this water, and then poured it through the 

VOL. IL L 



146 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

net on the body, which he blessed, praying, smging, and 
making various mystical and symbolical motions. He after- 
wards powdered it with flour of coloured rice, and chopped 
flowers, and placed it on dry mats. 

" Women brought out the wife of the gusti with her 
arms crossed. She was clothed with a piece of white Knen 
only. Her hair was crowned with flowers of the 
Chrysanthemum Indicum. She was quiet, and betrayed 
neither fear nor regret. She placed herself standing 
before the body of her husband, raised her arms on high, 
and made a prayer in silence. Women approached her, 
and presented to her small bouquets of kembang spatu, 
and other flowers. She took them one by one, and placed 
them between the fingers of her hands, raised above her 
head. On this the women took them away and dried 
them. On receiving and giving back each bouquet, the 
wife of the gusti turned a httle to the right, so that when 
she had received the whole, she had turned quite round. 
She prayed anew in silence, went to the corpse of 
her husband, kissed it on the head, the breast, below 
the navel, the knees, the feet, and returned to her place. 
They took oflf her rings. She crossed her arms on her 
breast. Two women took her by the arms. Her brother 
(this time a brother by adoption) placed himself before 
her, and asked her with a soft voice if she was determined 
to die, and when she gave a sign of assent with her head, 
he asked her forgiveness for being obliged to kill her. At 
once he seized his kris, and stabbed her on the left side of 



CEREMONIES OF IMMOLATION. 147 

the breast, but not deeply, so that she remained standing. 
He then threw his kris down, and ran off. A man of 
consideration approached her, and buried his kris to the 
hilt in the breast of the unfortunate woman, who sunk 
down at once, without uttering a cry. The women placed 
her on a mat, and sought by rolling and pressure to cause 
the blood to flow as quickly as possible. The victim being 
not yet dead, she was stabbed again with a kris between 
the shoulders. They then laid her on the second platform, 
near her husband. The same ceremonies that had taken 
place for him, now began for the wife. When all was 
ended, both bodies were covered with resin and cosmetic 
stuffs, enveloped in white linen, and placed in the small 
side-house on the platforms. There they remain until 
the time is come when they are burned together. 

"It is always a near relation who gives the first wound 
with the kris, but never father or son. Sometimes 
dreadful spectacles occur ; such was one at which Mr. K. 
was present. The woman had received eight kris stabs 
and was yet quite sensible. At last she screamed out, 
driven by the dreadful pain, * cruel wretches, are you not 
able to give me a stab that will kill me ! ' A gusti who 
stood behind her, on this, pierced her through and through 
with his kris. 

" The native spectators, whom I had around me, saw in 
this slaughter which took place before our eyes nothing 
shocking. They laughed and talked as if it was nothing. 
The man who had given the three last stabs wiped his 

L 2 



148 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

kris, and restored it to its place in as cold-blooded a 
manner as a butcher would have done after slaughtering 
an animal/' 

Mr. Praed's elegant allusion to the self-devotion of a 
New Zealand widow is sufficiently applicable here : — 

" The frantic widow folds upon her breast 
Her glittering trinkets and her goigeous yest^ 
Sorronnds her neck with many a mystic charm. 
Clasps the rich bracelet in her desperate arm. 
Binds her black hair, and stains her eyelids' fringe 
With the jet lustre of the Henow's tinge ; 
Then, on the spot where those dear ashes lie, 
In bigot transport sits her down to die ; 
Her swarthy brothers mark the wasted cheek. 
The straining eye-ball, and the stifled shriek ; 
And sing the praises of her deathless name, 
As the last flatter racks her tortar*d frune. 
They sleep together : o'er the natural tomb 
The lichen'd pine rears np its form of gloom. 
And lone acacias shed their shadow gray, 
Bloomless and leafless, o'er the buried clay ; 
And often there — ^when, calmly, coldly bright^ 
The midnight moon pours down her ghastly lights 
With solemn murmur, and with silent tread. 
The dance is order'd, and the verse is said ; 
And sights of wonder, sounds of spectral fSear, 
Scare the quick glance, and chill the startled ear." 

After Lombok we passed Surubawa and Comodo 
successively. The next island of note is that of Flores. 

Here we once more found ourselves within the baneful 
influence of piracy. The natives captured from this 
island used to be much esteemed by the Celebes pirates 
as slaves. Directly we had passed beyond the influence 
of Dutch protection, no more fishing canoes enlivened the 
scene, no smoke rose from the numerous inlets along the 
coasts of these beautiful islands, to indicate the peaceful 



FLORES. 149 

abode of human beings. There was the dense green 
vegetation of the jungle, but a death-like stillness reigned 
supreme. 

The following is translated from a Dutch Journal: — 
" On the island of Flores there lives a race called, on the 
South Coast, Rakka, who not only devour their enemies, 
but with whom custom requires that the son shall cut the- 
body of his deceased &ther in pieces, and sell the flesh to 
the inhabitants at the high price of its weight in gold. 
This flesh is greedily eaten by the people as a great 
deUcacy. If the father was heavy and of great size the 
son considers himself particularly fortimate. The popu- 
lation of Endore on the same island is also very greedy of 
human flesh. But these cannibals confine themselves to 
the heart which, with incredible dexterity, they extract 
from the body by giving one blow imder the left shoulder- 
blade. It is then cut into very small pieces and eaten 
completely raw by the bystanders, who belong to the 
same race.'' I am not yet able to corroborate this. 

Passing in nearly the same latitude, the islands of 
Andenara, Lomblen, Pantar, and Ombay, we made the 
comparatively large island of Timor, on the north-west 
side of which the Portuguese flag may be seen flying at 
Delly, an unhealthy spot, with nothing to recommend 
it in any way. It is a locality, however, deserving 
the attention of the Peninsular and Oriental S.N. 
Company, as convenient for the establishment of a Coal 
Depdt ; although I should rather recommend Cape York 



150 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

in Australia, now that all the narrow parts of the Inner 

Passage of Torres Straits have been most accurately 

surveyed by the late Captain Owen Stanley, as I imagine 

the smooth-water and fine-weather route, by which we 

came from Sincapore, far more desirable and more 

economical than that by the open sea. 

' Hence shaping a course more to the south-east, 

between the two small islands of Babi and Eambing (Pig 

and Goat), and leaving Wetta on our left, we stood along 

the north end of Timor ; and on the 5th of November, 

having rounded Pulo Jackie, we passed through this long 

chain of beautiful islands, and steered for Port Essington. 

A strong current set us down to the westward. When 

working up the AustraUan coast, we were boarded by a 

canoe with a crew of six of the veriest looking savages I 

had yet beheld : one of them, wearing a pair of trowsers, 

the only article of apparel among them, announced himself 

in tolerable English, as one of the tribe attached to the 

settlement at Port Essingtcm. We came to, on the 

evening of the 12th of November, in the outer anchorage ; 

and immediately communicated to Captain McArthur 

and the party of Marines the unexpected and acceptable 

intelligence that we were come to remove them. While 

the garrison however rejoiced, the natives, especially the 

poor women, showed their grief by cutting their heads 

and faces with sharp flints, and otherwise disfiguring their 

already unprepossessing persons. 

Port Essington is situated on Cobourg peninsola^ at the 



PORT B8SINGT0N. 151 

most northern part of Australia. The latitude of the pier- 
head of the then settlement of Victoria is 1 1® 21' 53'^ S., 
and longitude 132'' 12' ^T B. This port was discovered 
by Captam PhiUp King, in his survey of AustraUa between 
the years of 1818 and 1821. 

After the abandonment of the Melville Island and 
Raffles Bay settlements, the Government resolved on 
forming one at Port Essington, as a harbour of refuge for 
vessels bound through Torres Straits, as well as a 
convenient place for holding commercial intercourse with 
the adjacent islands of the Indian Archipelago. 

The settlement was established by Captain Sir J. 
Grordon Bremer, in the AUigaiary assisted by Commander 
Owen Stanley in the Britomart, in October 1838. The 
town named Victoria^ which consisted of a few wooden 
houses and small huts, sufficient for the accommodation 
of the garrison, was built near the head of the harbour, 
some sixteen miles from the entrance — a better site I 
think might have been selected, nearer the sea, whidi 
would have been cooler, and better supplied with water. 
An anchorage with a greater depth of water might 
likewise have been considered ; for although, for con- 
venience, we took the Maander up off the settlement, we 
were much too near the bottom, had it been the stormy 
season of the year : the periodical gales however give 
ample notice of their approach. 

The country about Port Essington is imdulatii^ ; there 
are ranges of hills ten or fifteen miles from the settlement, 



152 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

which run N.N.W. and S.S.E. ; their highest points, 
Bedwall and Roe, about 450 feet, are visible from the 
harbour ; the composition of these hills is of red sandstone. 

The soil, particularly in the vallies, consists of a rich 
dark vegetable mould, having a disagreeable smeU. The 
under soil of red earth, mixed sometimes with a white 
marly substance. 

The valleys do not in general contain much timber. 
The higher parts of the country are thickly wooded with 
the Eucalyptes. The blue gum-trees, the finest and 
stateliest trees of Australia^ grow along the river courses. 
Patches of thick jungle of various extent are found in 
many places, aflFording a secure retreat to the kangaroo, 
and a variety of birds. The timber found in this part of 
Australia is well calculated for building houses. The 
iron wood, which is heavy and tough, is much used by 
the Malays for making anchors. Melons, pumpkins, yams, 
sweet potatoes, bananas, chilies, pepper, pine-apple, tie 
bread-fruit tree, some sopmangustein, and jack fruit, all 
grew well in the garrison gardens. The common potato, 
and most of the European garden vegetables, do not 
thrive in that climate. 

A number of lagoons exist over the Cobourg 
peninsula ; these are full in the rainy season ; but many 
of them are nearly or entirely empty in the dry time 
of year. The water in them is generally brackish. 

Within a mile and a half of the settlement is a chain 
of very deep pits, containing a constant supply of delicious 



PORT E8SINGT0N. 163 

water. The settlement we found supplied by means of 
wells, which in the dry season only aflforded sufficient 
for the wants of the garrison. Surface water is abundant 
all over the coimtry. The natives can generally get a 
supply by boring a few feet into the sand. The rivers in 
the vicinity of the settlement are inconsiderable, except 
during the rainy season. 

Port Essington is within the limits of the south-east 
trade-wind. Towards the end of the year westerly winds 
blow at intervals until March. After this month the 
trade-wind increases in strength and becomes steadier 
until the month of August, after which it is variable. 
The rainy season and westerly winds generally commence 
in December. During this season the squalls are heavy, 
and the showers tropical. 

In the intervals of the showers, the heat of the sun is 
intense, and the evaporation from the moist earth so great, 
as to produce a steam as dense as a moderate fog. In 
such cases the smell is disagreeable and suffocating. The 
wet season ends in May. The continuation of heat and 
moisture during this time of the year is oppressive and 
debilitating in the extreme, productive of fevers and 
bilious affections. The months of June and July are cool 
and agreeable. The thermometer ranges between 63 deg. 
and 37 deg. at Port Essington. 

The climate is decidedly unhealthy, particularly to 
Europeans ; the most frequent affections are intermittent 
fevers and impairment of the digestive organs. The chief 



154 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

causes are probably the heat and moisture of the climate, 
the land-locked harbour, the swamps and mud-banks, the 
mangrove marshes ; and, in the case of Europeans, want 
of fresh and vegetable diet, and of mental occupation and 
excitement. 

About the middle of the dry season the natives set fire 
to the grass which is abundant everywhere, and at that 
time quite dry ; they do it annually, in order to clear the 
country for their wanderings, to destroy vermin, and to 
promote the growth of roots which they require as articles 
of food. The conflagration spreads with fearful rapidity 
and violence, consuming everything in its way, creeping 
up the dry bark of the trees, running along the branches 
to the withered leaves, and mvolving everything dead or 
aUve in one common ruin, until the whole country, as far 
as the eye can reach, is in a grand and brilliant illumina- 
tion, which, to be ftdly appreciated, should be seen. It is 
accompanied by a low murmuring sound, interrupted now 
and then by the loud report of the fall or bursting ci 
some large tree, well calculated to increase the melancholy 
of poor wretches worn out with sickness, and without 
hope of relief. Realizing imaginations of the final des- 
truction of our world then occur in vivid colours to the 
subdued and saddened mind. 

I am informed that a fire is sometimes caused ac- 
cidentally by the friction of two dry branches against 
each other. 

The natives of the Cobourg peninsula consist <^ 



NATIVE TRIBES. 166 

five tribes, dififering but little in physical appearance, 
manners, and customs, but each speaking a different 
dialect These tribes frequently meet for the purposes of 
war or corrobori. The largest meeting seen in the 
neighbourhood of Port Essington did not exceed 250, 
including men, women, and children. They all remained 
together in the same encampment,-~each tribe however 
having its own fires,-for three days, during which time 
the utmost harmony prevailed ; nothing but singing, 
dancing, and eating ; feats of fishing, throwing the spear, 
&c. They separated without having the festivities dis- 
turbed by an angry word. The tribes do not average 
more than 160 individuals each ; this, however, must 
be mere conjecture, as it is difficult to arrive at numbers, 
where the people can only count up as high as four : but 
from what we saw and learned from the natives, by com- 
parison with their own tribes, I think 150 must be near 
the truth. One of the tribes, distant from Fort Essington 
about sixty miles, is said by the others to be composed of 
very bad men, cannibals ; they are much afraid of them, 
«uid anticipated a visit from them when the settlement 
should be abandoned. It was resolved by three or four 
of the tribes to unite their forces for mutual safety, when 
the white men should go away. Whether such visit has 
been paid has not yet transph^d. 

The natives are well formed, and active ; their limbs are 
straight and suffidently muscular ; their bodies erect ; 
heads well shaped ; the features generally good ; lips not 



156 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

very thick ; hair crisp, but not much curled ; teeth 
regular, white, and sound. — They go quite naked. — They 
have the skin scarred, a front tooth extracted, and the 
cartilage of their nose perforated. They are capable of 
undergoing considerable fatigue and priyation in their 
>yanderings, marching for days together long distance, 
and suffering hunger and thirst for considerable periods. 
They are a wandering people, and have no fixed residence ; 
i)ut go from place to place as various articles of food come 
into season. 

It is curious to see a tribe thus migrating. A line 
of human beings, walking in single file along a forest- 
path, following its windings, gives one, when viewed from 
a height, the idea of a large serpent dragging its length 
along ; or, nearer to you, it has more the appearance of a 
huge centipede meandering its body through the forest 
wastes. 

On these occasions they carry all their worldly posses- 
sions with them : the women are their beasts of burden, 
carrying the various useful articles ; the men bear their im- 
plements of war, — spears, throwing-sticks, and hatchets, — 
and are always prepared for either an enemy or the chase. 
The aged, deformed, and sick, are carried on the backs of 
good Samaritans. In their migrations they are often so 
sorely pressed by want of food that, to appease the pangs of 
hunger, they are obliged to swallow balls of clay. During 
the hottest part of the day they make sheds of the 
branches of trees, by placing them standing against each 



NATIVE CAPACITY. 157 

Other with the leaves uppermost : this aflTords shelter 
from the smi. At night they carry firensticks, to keep ofiF 
evil spirits. In the rainy season they strip the bark oflF 
the large trees, about seven feet in length and five in 
breadth ; and, by fixing each end in the ground at a 
distance of about three feet, they form a convex shed, 
which keeps off* the heaviest rain, affording accommodation 
for two persons. They have never attempted permanent 
buildings, nor do they seem inclined to do so ; indeed,* 
such as they could construct would not long resist the 
effects of climate, and the ravages of the white ant. 

It has been the fashion with naturalists, and writers 
who copy their matter from their predecessors, without 
taking the trouble either to inquire into the subject, or to 
judge for themselves by actual examination, to place the 
Australian very low indeed in the scale of creation. K 
they do condescend to admit him into the human race, 
still they evidently show some compunction at allowing 
him to take his place over the head of the inteUigent 
monkey, or the sage-looking chimpanzee. A greater 
mistake than this has never been made. The native of 
Northern Australia is intelligent and apt. His intelligence 
is manifested both in the daily concerns of life, and in the 
acquisition of languages. Many of the natives speak two 
or three dialects ; and some, in addition, speak English 
and Malay fluently. They are apt enough in learning 
everything that may prove usefiil, — some of them have 
gone away to Sydney, Java, and Macassar, on board 



158 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

European ships, and have made good seamen ; and on 
their return have given intelligent accounts of what they 
had seen. They have been employed about the settlement 
in a variety of ways, and have shown no want of quickness 
in doing what was required of them. When riding through 
the jungle on a shooting excursion, I gave my gun to a 
naked savage to carry : I was rather astonished at his 
addressing me in very good EngUsh, with, " Should an 
opportunity ofiFer, sir, I shall fire!" This man was fre- 
quently with me afterwards. One day he said to me, " K 
you English could thrash Bonaparte whenever you liked, 
why did you put him on an island, and starve him to 
death ? " 

A constant supply of native labour could always be had 
— on a small scale, of course — if they were properly fed 
and regularly paid. Grenerally they are only employed 
when the white man wants their aid ; and when he does 
not, he sends them adrift to pursue their old mode of life ; 
they consequently got the character, — ^and in a certain 
degree the habit — of being very idle and lazy, only willing 
to work when they cannot procure what they want by any 
other means. For instance, — ^if you wish a native to do 
anything for you which will perhaps occupy him three 
or four days, you must only give him as much rice and 
tobacco as will suffice him for one day ; if you give him 
more, he will not return so long as he has a bit left ; but 
if you give him barely sufficient for the day, he is at his 
post next morning. They are great cheats, thieves, and 



LOVE OF FREEDOM. 169 

liars ; and like most wild people are impatient of control, 
and seldom remain constantly in service, however well 
treated. It was not umisual for the young men to become 
attached to the officers, and to attend upon them as 
servants. While thus occupied, the reclaimed savage, 
clad in trousers of duck, a shirt of check, a many-coloured 
jacket, a pair of purser's shoes or his master's old bootsy 
and a straw hat, would strut about the settlement, admired 
by the belles and envied by the beaux, for a very variable 
period, — generally a few weeks, sometimes three or four 
months. At last, some fine morning, all that remained of 
this faithful domestic would be his finery. The novelty 
had worn off; he had grown tired of civilised Hfe, and 
had gone away to amuse himself after the manner of 
his countrymen. Again, when the novelty of travel had 
passed away, he would return to his master and resume 
his finery and former occupation for another season. 

Such is the fireedom of savage life. Each individual in 
the commxmity is his own master : there is no king, no 
governor, no magistrate, no leader ; even the elders and 
the parents have no absolute authority over the younger 
people : the youngest child is impatient of control, and 
will resist with his spear any attempt at coercion or 
tyranny. Old people, however, are treated with becoming 
respect and consideration, and have some privileges and 
immunities. One of the greatest privileges of old men, 
and one of which they always avail themselves, is that of 
betrothing to themselves girls when very young, and 



leo A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

marrying them when they arrive at mature age. A man 
of fifty years of age becomes betrothed to a gu-1 of seven 
or eight, and marries her when she is about eleven. The 
consequences are much the same as might be expected 
in any society : the young lady is besieged by less fortu- 
nate and more suitable admirers. On the other hand, the 
old gentleman has his eyes wide open, and jealousy keeps 
him constantly on the watch. Hence it not uncommonly 
happens that the youthful couple are surprised by the 
barbed point of an ugly spear, passing violently through 
some fleshy part of their sable frames. The wounds, 
however disagreeable, heal more rapidly than those 
inflicted by Cupid's darts : young people will be young 
people to the end of the chapter ; — ^they flirt on ; the old 
man, in his fits of jealousy, maims and sometimes kills, 
but is at length destroyed himself by the cares and 
anxieties of watching his juvenile spouse. Beauties are 
frequently carried oflF by force, often change lords and 
masters, and give rise to many quarrels, — in short, are 
much the same as in more civilised states. 

The natives are tolerably long-lived ; but the average 
age is not so long as among more civilised people. They 
look older than they are. They never know their ages, 
having no means of counting ; in most matters they 
reckon by moons. The increase of population is kept 
down by various means : by infanticide — ^particularly of 
female children. What a revolting custom, to have pre- 
vailed in all ages, and to have been so widely spread ! It 



INFANTICIDE. 161 

is even pathetically alluded to in the Koran. " On the 
last day/^ says the passage, " the female infant that has 
been buried alive will demand — * For what crime was I 
sacrificed ? ' and the eternal books will be laid open/' 

" I saw their infant's spirit rise to heaven, 
Caoght from its birth up to the throne of God : 
There, thousands and ten thousands I beheld 
Of innocents like this, that died untimely 
By violence of their unnatural kin. 
Or by the mercy of that gracious Power 
Who gave them being." 

The practice of infanticide is more general in Australia 
than is commonly imagined. The unnatural check is 
further assisted by the use of violent means to nip the 
embryo bud ; and by diseases of children, which are 
various, brought on chiefly by neglect of cleanliness and 
by improper food. In other respects, children are very 
kindly treated by natives, — they are never beaten nor 
punished, how naughty soever they may be : when very 
troublesome, the mothers put them on the ground, and 
leave them for several hours. The children bear it most 
philosophically, — ^play with wild flowers until tired, then 
go to sleep. Children are often suckled by their mothers 
until three years old : those bom deformed are generally 
destroyed ; idiots are never seen ; perhaps they are like- 
wise so provided for. Polygamy is allowed. Wives are 
of much importance ; they perform all the labour, and 
collect food for the &mily while the men sleep. The 
men did not show any violent symptoms of jealousy of 
the white men : they were always wiUing that their wives 

VOL. H. M 



162 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

should make themselves generally useful to the Europeans 
for a consideration of pipes, tobacco, or grog. Occasionally 
a child would be bom diflfering considerably in colour 
from its mother ; but these litstis naturce were generally 
destroyed by the natives : only one was allowed to attain 
to any degree of maturity, and was so overfed by both 
Europeans and natives, that the removing of the settle- 
ment has most likely been the means of the child's escaping 
death by apoplexy. 

One day a native, in a fit of jealousy, threw a bamboo 
spear at his wife, which passed through her neck. The 
spear was an inch in diameter. The jagged portion was 
cut off, and the handle withdrawn. Little bleeding took 
place ; but it was supposed that extensive inflammation 
and suppuration would be the consequence of so lai^e a 
contused and lacerated woimd. Such, however, was not 
the case. The accompanying fever was high, and placed 
the patient's life in jeopardy for a certain period. She 
was kept in the settlement some days, and had medical 
attendance. Native doctors came to see her occasionally, 
but did nothing to her, imtil one day, when she was very 
much better, one of them said with much seriousness that 
he could cure her. He commenced forthwith to rub her 
back-bone with his hand,, and, like his more civilised 
brethren^ to look wise. After having continued this 
powerful remedy for some minutes, he took his leave, 
assuring his beholders that he had cured her. In a few 
days she rejoined her friends in the bush, spreading the 



NATIVE CHARACTERISTICS. 163 

&jiie of her sable doctor far and wide, to the no 
small mortification of the learned uEsculapius of the 
white men. 

The natives bear pain remarkably well. Some of 
their spear-womids are frightful. They willingly submit 
to the most painful operations without murmuring. 
They show the like indiflFerence to suffering in raising 
scars on different parts of their bodies, for the purpose of 
adornment. 

The natives are very fond of dancing and singing. The 
dances are performed by the young men. In their regular 
dances the women do not join ; but they can dance, and 
gracefully too, after their own fashion. 

The bodies of the dancers are grotesquely, but very 
skilfully, painted with different coloured clays. They are 
wonderful mimics, and are fond of representing in their 
dances the habits of various animals, — the kangaroo, 
native companion, wild fowl, &c. Their movements are 
graceful and compUcated, — sometimes indeKcate : they 
afford good opportunities to the young men to display 
their figures and agihty. When two or three tribes 
meet, dancing is carried on with great spirit. The 
music consists of a bamboo tube, about a yard long, 
through which a monotonous sound is transmitted by 
the performer's breath — the beating of one stick 
against another — the clapping of hands — ^also the beating 
of the open hand against the hollow parts of the limbs 
and body. 

u 2 



164 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

The natives are also fond of singing. Their songs, 
which consist of a few words often repeated, are generally 
obscene ; their conversation is almost always so. They 
prefer their own singing to ours : they think ours tame, 
and always do us the favour to laugh at our best efforts. 
Some of them admired our band, but I beUeve they 
preferred their bamboo flute. 



NATIVE ENCAMPMENT. 166 



CHAPTER XXI. 



VATIYB BNOAXPMIHTS — DAHOBS^RBVIHOI — PmnSHMtHT OF MUEDBB — AOOIDUrTAL 

HOMIOIDB PIBSOHAL AKD SOCIAL HABITS — WILD HOHIT — KAHOAROO HUHTIHO 

WILD D008 — THl BMU — WILD FOWL — HUHTIHO^A HIOHT DT THl JUHOLS— 

FUM — OBBSI — THl DUOOHO — HATIYB OOOKBBT — FEUDS— DISPOSAL OF DIAD— 
FIBB SI0HAL8— HATin OVIDIS — ^ALLIOATO&S — WHITl AHTS — ^ISSIHOTOV SITTUI- 
MXIT-— OAPl TORS. 

A NATIVE ENCAMPMENT consists of a number of fires, 
with sheds made of the branches and bark of trees. Each 
femily has its own fire and huts. Strangers, when present, 
have fires for themselves. It is not considered etiquette to 
approach a fire without an invitation from the master of 
it. It is a curious sight at night to see, in the midst of 
a wild forest, a whole tribe divided into groups thus 
disposed aroimd so many fires. The glare reflected from 
the foliage, and from the dark faces of the people, has a 
strange and striking effect. The time is passed in a 
variety of ways, — chatting, singing, courting, dancing ; 
some doing many of these together. Occasionally, some 
withered old hag will suddenly start up, and break forth 



166 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

in a wild and loud recitative, referring to past scenes, or 
to some death which remains miavenged. Instantly all 
other occupations are laid aside, and the crone is listened 
to with a death-like silence. The audience become 
gradually excited as the narrative proceeds, and the old 
devil works herself into a frenzy, until at length the 
excitement in the camp has reached such a height that 
men scarcely know what they are about. It is not then 
safe for strangers to be present ; and woe betide the 
unhappy man belonging to any tribe from which an insult 
has been received and not avenged. 

Shortly before the abandonment of the settlement of 
Port Essington, the natives were occupied as above 
described in their encampment within a few hundred 
yards of the garrison, when an old woman commenced 
her infernal chaunt about a murder committed long before 
by the tribe of a poor wretch present, and who had been 
Uving on the best terms with the Port Essington tribe for 
nearly three years previously. The usual efiFect was pro- 
duced on the hearers. Directly the stranger saw what 
was coming, he started up and ran for his life, in the 
direction of the garrison ; before, however, he could reach 
that place of refuge, his frenzied pursu^^ had speared him 
to death. The poor fellow had never committed an 
offence against his murderers. The actors in this tragedy, 
far from being ashamed of their treachery and cowardice, 
boasted of it as a noble deed, and laughed at sympathy 
being shown for such a monster. 



NATIVE CHARACTERISTICS. 167 

The feeling of revenge never dies in the breasts of 
these people till gratified. It must be vented on some 
person, no matter whether innocent or guilty. In spite 
however of these little outbreaks on the part of the 
old hags, and the known treachery of these people, 
individuals will frequently be found visiting strange 
tribes. 

Wilful murder is punished by the death of the murderer 
or any one of his friends ; they are not over-nice in these 
matters. Accidental homicide is punished by spearing 
through the legs, thighs, arms, &c., according to circimi- 
stances. A native who does not avenge the death of his 
relative becomes an outcast ; the men mock him, and the 
women spurn and ridicule him. 

These people are an odd mixture of cleanliness and 
filth : they frequently bathe ; after which I have seen 
them, on lying down to sleep, cover their bodies with 
dust and dirt, to keep the flies off. They resemble in their 
cleanly habits the cat and other animals. 

The natives are very generous to each other ; they 
divide whatever they get, — articles of food or raiment. 
Give a native a piece of cloth, he tears it up and gives a 
portion to each of his friends ; give him rice, he shares it 
in the same way. There are, however, exceptions to every 
general rule ; and I regret to state that if a native gets 
anything very good and rare, such as a glass of grog, he 
does not take much trouble to seek his friends, but disposes 
of it very quietly to his own private comfort ; — ^but this is 



168 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

contrary to good manners, and would be considered 
highly improper, if known. 

The natives may be said to be omnivorous ; they 
devour all kinds of animals, and a great variety of roots 
and fruits. They do not use salt with their food. The 
quantity that a native can stow away is incredible. 

You see a thin half-starved fellow, with his belly drawn 
to his back-bone, turn to at a bucket of rice ; leave him 
for a few minutes, and on your return you would scarcely 
recognise in him the individual you saw so shortly 
before : he is now bloated and dull ; his stomach is dis- 
tended and hard ; his eyes refuse to remain open ; and 
while you are pitying the animal, h6 falls asleep like the 
reptile of his forest. 

Wild honey is a favourite food. The bee which col- 
lects it is about the size of our ordinary house fly, and is not 
provided with a sting. The swarm is not so numerous as ours. 
They take up their abode in the hollow trees and branches, 
luid collect enormous quantities of honey : it is said to 
be sweet and very wholesome. The natives discover these 
collections, either by watching the bees going into the 
hollow trees ; or tapping at trees, when the bees, if any 
are established there, issue forth ; or by Ustening to their 
hum. When they have discovered their prize the brandi 
is cut ofi*, or the tree opened with their axes. The combs 
are so slender that the honey soon issues from them in a 
thin fluid. They make a bucket of the bark of a tree, 
and break up the inner bark into a substance resembling 



THE KANGAROO. 169 

tow, with which they sponge up the honey ; they thus 
collect it all in the bucket. As they proceed on their 
journey, one of these sponges is handed round for each to 
have a suck as long as it contains any of the sweet plun- 
der. The natives are not provident of food, nor of any- 
thing else ; they never look beyond the wants of the 
present moment ; they do not provide for the future like 
the little insects they so cruelly rob. If you give them 
provisions enough for two days, they will eat as much as 
they can the first, and allow the remainder to be wasted. 

The Kangaroo is here a fevourite article of food, but it 
requires trouble and labour to procure, and is therefore 
rarely seen. There are five varieties of these animals 
about Port Essington. The largest, which weighs about 
lOOlbs, found in the hilly parts of the country, is not so 
fleet as the other species, but fights desperately. The 
smallest kind weighs between six and ten pounds, and is 
very fast. The animal most conunonly met with varies 
from fifteen to thirty pounds in weight ; these are generally 
found near the thick jungle. For a short distance their 
run, or rather their jump, equals the speed of an ordinary 
greyhound ; but they cannot keep up the pace long. 
When kangaroos are closely pressed by dogs, in the vicinity 
of water, they make for it. If the water is shallow 
enough to allow them to stand, they support themselves 
on their hind legs and tail, and in this position show fight : 
they try to drown the dog by holding him under water, or 
rip his stomach open with the long sharp claw of their 



170 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

hind foot. A well-trained dog seizes the Kangaroo 
between the thighs, at the root of the tail ; this mode of 
assault seems judicious for the dog's own safety, and it 
disables the tail, upon which member the animal is so 
dependent in running. The muscles of these parts were 
generally found lacerated in kangaroos killed by dogs. The 
kangaroo is naturally a gentle, timid, playful animal, and 
capable of attachment to those who are kind to it. In 
our eagerness for sport we were cruel enough to shoot 
several, and I regret to say some carrying their 
young. When these latter had been deprived, by the death 
of the mother, of the pouch in which they had been so 
comfortably lodged, it was curious to see the dexterous 
manner in which, if perchance you held the nose of one 
of them anywhere near your coat pocket, or the opening 
of your shirt, the little animal would disengage itself 
from your grasp, and, performing a somerset, throw itself 
coiled up into the bottom of this imaginary pouch. 

It is very interesting to see a native kangarooing. All 
his energies, instinct, and cunning, are brought into play. 
When he comes to a place likely to contain game, he 
becomes watchful and excited, his eyes roll about, his 
ears appear to stand out, his body erect, and as steady as 
a statue. After a while he moves, his step noiseless and 
cautious. When he sees a kangaroo he becomes rivetted 
to the spot ; not a movement of either body or limb is 
discernible. The uninitiated observer at a short distance 
looks in vain for the cause of this attitude : afler straining 



HUNTING THE KANGAROO. 171 

his eyes for some time he at length perceives the head of 
a kangaroo peeping over the long grass, in the direction 
of the native. The two animals watch each other for a 
variable period, until the kangaroo, which has persuaded 
itself that the motionless object before it is Ukewise 
Ufeless, has gone down again on all fours, to dig a root or 
play with its young. The dark object then moves with 
measured pace towards his victim, which soon takes 
another peep to see if all is right The native again 
assumes his fixed attitude : in this way he keeps 
advancing with most extraordinary care and patience, 
sometimes for nearly an hour, imtil within range of his 
game ; then the £ital spear is placed in the throw-stick, 
by a sort of magic, for no apparent motion accompanies 
the operation ; the weapon is poised — ^and sent with 
unerring aim, and fatal effect. The native or natives 
now, with hideous yells, pursue the wounded animal, 
which of course does all in its power to escape, but is soon 
obliged by pain or loss of blood to cease running : it then 
takes up a position with its back to a tree or rock, 
determined to defend itself or its progeny ; but a few well- 
directed spears from a short distance soon decide the 
contest. Poor kangaroo dies, is carried away in triumph, 
and is soon devoured. 

Large hunting parties are often made by the natives to 
procure a supply of kangaroo. A place known to contain 
these animals is surrounded, the brush-wood set on fire, 
and the animals speared as they issue from it. This is 



172 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

very exciting to the natives. They also watch for them 
at places where they come to get fresh water, and then 
spear them. But the most laborious way of taking the 
kangaroo is by tracking ; success by this method is 
considered highly honourable : it requires great perceptive 
instinct, and a knowledge of the jungle, besides the 
power of enduring fetigue, hunger and thirst. The 
pursuit of an animal in this manner lasts sometimes forty- 
eight hours, before it is taken. The native, when it gets 
dark, lights his fire, sleeps on the trail, and starts again at 
daylight in pursuit of his victim. 

The wild dog is a great enemy to the kangaroo. This 
animal generally hunts alone, but they are sometimes met 
in packs, when their howUng is very musical and plaintive, 
though apparently ominous and depressing to the spirits 
of our domestic dog, who, when his ear is thus greeted, 
seems to consider it the better part of valour to keep dose 
to his master. The wild dog is of a light sandy colour, 
with a short strong brush similar to that of the fox, but 
smaller. He is very cunning and strong, and his bite is 
severe. The greatest animosity exists between the native 
and the domestic dog. They wage constant war, and avail 
themselves of any superiority of force to worry one another. 

A hunting party with the garrison pack was in pursuit 
of one of these wild dogs, when they observed him rush 
into the water ; but, on arriving at the spot almost 
immediately afterwards, they were surprised to find no 
trace of him. Men and dogs stood wondering for some 



WILD DOGS. 173 

time : at last a bubble made its appearance on the surface 
of the -water ; and, on looking carefully at the spot, they 
saw the black tip of their friend's nose just visible on the 
surface. The attention of the dogs was directed to him : 
they dragged him forth and worried him, but could not 
kill him. He had, poor brute, cunningly placed his body 
under the root of a mangrove tree, to prevent its floating, 
and kept the end of his nose above water for the purpose 
of respiration. These dogs commit fearful ravages among 
the flocks in the cooler and more southern parts of 
AustraUa, and more than double the owners' expenses, 
from the number of shepherds required to keep watch 
against them. They are unknown in the more fortunate 
Van Diemen's Land, where there is a heavy fine on the 
importation of them. Sheep do not thrive in Northern 
Australia. The natives about Port Essington tame these 
dogs, when they catch them very young ; the women 
suckle them with their children. 

Emus are frequently met with ; they afford good sport 
with the kangaroo dogs. It requires two strong dogs to 
kill one of these birds. They kick with great force both 
before and behind : for a short distance they can run 
very fast 

On the breaking up of the Raffles Bay settlement, some 
water buffaloes were left behind ; these have since 
increased considerably, and are very wild. 

There are few parts of the world where wild fowl and 
game are so abundant as in the northern portion of 



174 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

Australia. In addition to geese, and ducks (of which there 
is a great variety), pheasants, quail, jungle-fowl, and 
pigeons, the sportsman may vary his amusement by 
stalking the native companion (ibis), and on his way home 
may empty his gun into a pelican. 

During our stay several shooting parties were made up. 
The best of the lagoons before mentioned are situated on 
the eastern side of the harbour : there is a succession of 
them, at various distances, — three, ten, or seventeen miles, 
from the place where we landed. The journey by land to 
some of them may be shortened ; but only by first making 
a circuit of some miles on the sea. 

The jungle through which we rode was opai below, 
and shaded overhead. We were attended by some 
natives, who joined us for the sake of what they were 
likely to get to eat ; they carried our ammunition, pro- 
vender, and tents. We were likewise followed by some of 
the Marines composing the settlement, — ^I have seldom 
seen a finer-looking, or better-behaved set of yoimg men 
than those who composed the garrison at Port Essington. 
Among these there were a few who, having a taste for the 
sort of Ufe, had for years supplied the settlement with 
game, and who had become such experienced hunters 
as greatly to excel even the natives in sagacity, and in all 
that appertains to the mysteries of the jungle. These 
men alone were enough to make a bush-party agreeable. 
Highest in miUtary rank was Sergeant Copp, a steady, 
untiring, keen sportsman. Corporals Rowe, Chalford, and 



EUROPEAN SPORTSMEN. 175 

Jeflfries, were all good shots, good-tempered, hard-working 
fellows, for whom the natives would do anything. It 
was wonderful to see the dexterity with which they 
would light a fire, and erect a bush hut They were all 
good cooks; private Crayton super-exceUent. He had 
been a London butcher, and was a sharp intelligent fellow. 
Let me mention, though last, certainly not least, a man 
named Hutchings ; a huge fellow, rough and ready, — a 
very feg. He used to prefer going away alone, and never 
returned empty-handed ; more generally hung round with 
game ; fifteen or twenty geese ; a whole flock of ducks ; a 
native companion or two, as long as himself ; two or three 
kangaroos, and a handkerchief fiill of small birds (speci- 
mens of natural history), the only part of him visible 
being his great red face, besmeared with perspiration and 
blood. He was a powerful and most daring fellow. On 
one occasion he found near the hospital a large alligator, 
floundering about in shallow water : he attacked him 
single-handed, caught him by the tail, and held on by 
main force until assistance came, when the brute was 
killed. I am afraid this fine fellow has bought his dis- 
charge from the Marines, and has gone to cut timber 
in New Zealand. 

When I saw the iron frames, and comparatively 
healthy appearance of these men, their wonderftd endu- 
rance of fatigue, and considered what they must 
occasionally have undergone, in exposure to the sun by 
day, and to the dews by night, I could not help thinking 



176 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

that the sickness, which prevailed in the garrison, was 
as much owing to the want of mental and bodily exercise, 
as to any unhealthiness of climate. 

At the time of our visit to these extensive swamps, they 
were, with the exception of occasional patches and a few 
holes, quite dry and covered over with a crust of hard 
clay sufficiently strong to bear our own weight, but 
not that of our horses : the latter were nearly fixed on 
more than one occasion. 

It was late the first day when we arrived on our ground ; 
and we had only time to light fires, and pitch our tents on 
the banks of a stream of fi'esh water, when the sun went 
down. 

Long before the break of day we heard, — ^first that 
peculiar noise occasioned by the wings of wild fowl passing 
rapidly through the air, not many yards above our heads ; 
then came the low, distant cackle of geese, and the 
strange noise of the whistling duck passing to and fro. I 
beheve we were all alike in a nervous state of excitement 
Dayhght came at last ; but with it excitement of another 
kind. No one experiencing what we did, could ever 
forget the myriads of flies that appeared at the same time. 
Everything was black with them — ^the ground, the air, our 
food — ^they clung to our clothes, they stuck to our fitces : 
to rid ourselves of them, we stripped, and rushed into the 
water, diving to get clear — ^but no ! they would hover 
about, and swarm on any part of our bodies that appeared 
above the surface. We were not entirely free for one 



FLIES. 177 

moment) mitil we left them and our sport together. 
Never before had I fiilly appreciated the misery of that 
particular plague of Egypt. By spreading a silk hand- 
kerchief oyer the head, and keeping it in its place with 
a light straw-hat, we succeeded in protecting oiur necks 
and £Etces from the thickest of them ; and as there was 
just sufficient wind to keep the comers of the head-dress 
flapping about, we thus partially disappointed our tor- 
mentors. With the exception of this one drawback, better 
sport we could not have had. There was room for any 
number of guns. The geese have one peculiarity, — ^they 
perch upon trees ; so that an unskilful sportsman may 
have, in his way, as much amusement as the man who 
brings down his geese right and left from a considerable 
height while on the wing. 

In spite of the flies we remained several days in 
nearly the same locality, shifting our position occasionally. 
Those who disliked the flies, and preferred more violent 
exercise, found it in the pursuit of kangaroo, which, 
when obtained with some pains and labour. affi>rded very 
good soup. The geese and ducks, also, we found deUcious 
eating. 

The lagoons are excellent places for sport. They 
are between two and three hundred acres in extent^ 
surrounded by forest trees, and with numerous little retir- 
ing coves about them in which we might conceal ourselves, 
and watch for ihe game ; but, except as retreats from the 
sun, which was oppressively hot, these hiding places were 

you n. N 



178 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

not necessary, as the geese were such geese that they did 
not understand the use of powder and shot ; and at the 
same time seemed to imagine that on the top of a tree 
they were safe. If after a while one particular set got 
more knowing, there were other lagoons with fresh geese 
at no great distance. The natives will kill almost every 
kind of bird with their spears and throwing-sticks. With 
water-fowl they are so expert that, by stealing close to 
them, or lying motionless for a length of time in one of 
the patches of water which these ducks and geese frequent^ 
when the lagoons are dry, they catch them with their 
hands. On observing, while shooting, a spot that looked 
as if it had only just been quitted by some wild beasts and 
not feeling quite comfortable, I questioned the native 
who was with me as to what it meant ; he immediately 
imbedded his own body into the muddy hole ; and, had I 
not seen him go in, I certainly should have trodden on him. 
This is one of their ways of taking a dirty advantage of 
the game. 

There is a great variety of excellent fish in the 
harbour of Port Essington. The natives procure abun- 
dance of them by spearing. Turtle abound along the 
coast, and are their favourite article of food, in whidi taste 
they are not pecuUar. The eggs likewise they are 
very fond of ; but the creature for which they will go 
any distance is the dugong, a herbivorous animal g[ the 
order cetacea, about eight or nine feet in length, some- 
times more, covered with a tough skin nearly an inch in 



THE DUGONG. 179 

thickness, and under which is a layer of fat much prized 
by the natives, not only as an article of diet, but for the 
purpose of anointing their hair and bodies. The head is 
small in proportion to the body ; eyes and apertures for 
the ears small also ; tail broad and crescent-formed, and 
yery large in proportion to the size of the animal It has 
two large tusks ; the bones are dense and heavy. It is 
found in the Indian Seas generally, but abounds in the 
shallow waters on the northern coasts of Australia, where 
the natives spear it. The female produces one at a birth, 
and has a very strong aflfection for her young. When a 
young one is caught, the mother is sure to fall a victim, as 
she will not forsake her ofifspring. The Malays have a 
saying — " As aflfectionate as a dugong." The young are 
supposed to shed tears, and the Malay ladies think by 
collecting them to win the objects of their affections. I 
doubt, however, whether my North Australian friends are 
so romantic ; but if they do not value the tears, they 
certainly appreciate the flesh and fat ; for a blow-out of 
this dainty they will make more than a day's journey, and 
talk of it for a week afterwards. 

Oysters are abundant ; those that grow on the trees 
are the best eating. It would be tedious to enumerate all 
the animals and vegetables that the natives use as food : 
indeed it would be difficult to say what they do not eat. 

They are not generally very nice in their cooking. 
While out on our shooting excursion, I observed one 
fellow pulling the feathers off a goose : while so employed 

N 2 



180 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

his eye caught the tip-end of the tail of an iguana^ an 
animal of the lizard kind, about four feet long, ^hich was 
creeping up the opposite side of a tree ; he tosssed the 
goose without further preparation on to the fire, and as- 
cended the tree as easily as Jack would run up the well 
rattled rigging of a man-of-war. He almost immediately 
returned with the poor aniinal vainly struggling in his 
scientific grasp : it was the work of a minute to secure it 
to a stick of about the same length as itself to prevent its 
running away, when it was made to change places with 
the goose, which, being warm through, was considered to 
be sufficiently done. The : whole goose he devoured, 
making no bones, but spitting out the feathers ; then came 
the iguana's tijrn, which, although less tender, was not the 
less relished. It appeared to require great muscular 
strength to detach the flesh fi*om the skin. The operation 
being finished, he lay down to sleep. His wife, having 
sprinkled him with dirt to keep the flies ofi*, was 
proceeding to eat the skin of the iguana, when the arrival 
of some more geese offered her a more satisfectory repast. 

The trepang or sea-slug, is an article of commerce on 
the north coast ; it is found in almost all the sheltered 
harbours. The Macassar prahus come annually for it, 
and carry away considerable quantities for the China 
market. 

It is during these trading visits that the Malays and 
natives have frequent quarrels. The Malay, who, in 
addition to his natural haughtiness, assumes the impor- 



NATIVE BIERS. 181 

tance to which he imagines his religion (the Mahommedan) 
entitles him, looks down on the native of Australia as 
little better than a wild hog, and would thrust his kris 
into him with less ceremony, inasmuch as he could not 
touch the unclean beast without being defiled. The 
native, however, true to his own creed, has life for life ; 
the Malay, being aware of this, endeavours to smother 
his hatred until just about to depart ; but the native 
neither forgets nor forgives. It is immaterial to him who 
his victim is ; so that it often happens on the arrival of a 
prahu, that before any commercial business is transacted 
the native has a score to wipe off of another sort. Interest 
and policy alone withhold for a while the kris and the 
spear : — ^a mutual hatred and distrust exist between them. 
When a native dies, he is wrapped up in the bark of 
a tree, and bound round with cord. A stage is made, by 
placing two forked branches, eight or ten feet in height, 
upright in the ground, the forks uppermost, distant from 
Bach other about five or six feet, and facing the fork of a 
tree. A piece of wood is placed transversely, resting on 
the forks of the upright branches. A number of branches 
are then placed longitudinally, the ends resting in the fork 
of the tree and on the transverse piece. The whole slopes 
at a considerable angle, the uprights being shorter than 
the fork of the tree. This is done to prevent the lodge- 
ment of wet. Upon this incHned stage the body, wrapped 
in its coffin of bark, is laid ; and there it remains. Some- 
times there is no stage, and the body, rolled up in a 



182 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

bundle, is laid upon, or suspended from, the branch of a 
tree. These places of deposit are avoided by the natives ; 
they think evil spirits haunt them. A native would not 
go near one at night by himself; but when they are 
obliged to pass them, they carry a firenatick to keep off the 
spirit of darkness. 

A fond mother will often visit the place of burial of a 
fiavomite child, and bear away its bones or a part of them. 
She often carries them about with her for years ; the skull 
is the part most usually chosen. 

The poor wretch whom they murdered near the settle- 
ment was interred in the earth, a very little way below the 
surface. This is the mode of burial, I believe, for enemies 
or great offenders. 

The natives have never disturbed nor defaced the graves 
of the Europeans buried at Port Essington ; they seem to 
have a decent respect for the dead. Whether they have 
done so since the breaking up of the establishment remains 
to be ascertained; but I should think that fear of the 
white man's spirit would be quite sufficient to deter them. 

In Northern Australia the natives have a very elaborate 
code of signals, by which distant tribes and parties can 
communicate. By managing the fire, they cause the 
smoke to ascend in a particular way, significant of some 
interesting event. Sometimes the column is great, of large 
diameter ; sometimes it is spare and thin ; sometimes it is 
light-coloured, and sometimes dark ; and so on. The 
whole tribe have been known to disi^pear suddenly after 



NATIVE PERYEBSBNESS. 183 

seeing a signal of this kind, and keep away for several 
days. The great event generally is the discovery of a 
good supply of food. 

We did not find the natives particularly clever in the 
jungle. When out of the beaten path, and when once they 
lost their way, they showed more stupidity than one would 
have expected ; in fact, I would under such circumstances 
much rather trust to one of the before-mentioned Marines, 
than to any natives of the five tribes inhabiting the Cobourg 
peninsula. 

The natives were very provoking at times in the capacity 
of guides. They will not bear to be hurried ; they will 
walk slow, repeatedly sit down, pretend to look for fresh 
water, and loiter away the time in an endless variety of 
ways. If, feeling hungry and tired, and knowing the 
direction, you take the lead yourself, your guide will 
sulkily follow, and allow you to go vnrong, or to pass the 
place he knows you are anxious to arrive at : and when at 
last you inquire, " Where settlement 1 '^ with a disdainful 
look he points towards the place from which you have been 
travelling the last two hours. — You were right at first in 
the direction but misjudged your distance. You say to 
" Darkey,'' " What for you do this ?" He replies, " What 
for you take guide in bush V Of course none but strangers 
are thus caught. The native canoes are made of the bark 
of trees : they are frail vessels, and easily upset ; but this 
is of little consequence, as men, women, and children are 
all expert swimmers. It is not an uncommon thing to see 



184 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

a party of from twenty to thirty perisons set oiit to swim 
across the bay, the little children holding on to the hair of 
the grown people. They do not seem to have any fear of 
sharks or aUigators. 

An alligator has been known at Fort Essington to rush 
out of the water, and seize a dog from the midst of a party 
of men working on the beach. In all parts of the world 
where alligators are found, they have shown a taste for 
canine flesh. 

I may here introduce an extract from my Journal while 
in the Pacific, as well as a few other personal recollections 
of the alligator : — 

On July 3rd, 1851— Oflf the Chamatkla River on the 
coast of Chili — ^we left the ship, a party of four guns, to 
shoot wild fowl. After some Kttle trouble we succeeded 
in getting over the bar without accident, and with our 
ammunition dry. 

The right bank near the mouth is formed by a narrow 
peninsula of sand, about a mile long, lying parallel with 
the sea-beach. 

The first object that attracted our attention was a huge 
alligator basking on the bank of sand. We lost no time 
in drawing our duck-shot, and loading with ball. Our 
idea was to land some distance below, and walk up on the 
sea side of the bank imtil abreast of him, and then by 
creeping over the ridge to surprise the monster where he 
lay. This part of it we managed very well ; but, as he 
was not asleep, he gave us no . time to aim at any 



ALLIGATOR& 185 

Tulnerable part ; our bullets rattled against his back, as 
he glided off the bank into the river. 

None of us however were prepared for the sight that 
awaited us from the top of this ridge of sand. Higher 
up, and about eighty yards distant, covering the bank for 
nearly as far up the river as we could see, were perhaps a 
thousand of these monsters. They had the appearance, 
from the confused mass in which they lay, of a forest 
of felled timber left by the tide at high water-mark, so 
motionless and imconcemed at our proximity did they 
appear. To Ml back and re-load, in preparation for a 
regular battue, was the work of a minute. We passed up, 
as on the former occasion^ as stealthily as a party of 
Camanchee Indians could have done, but keeping about 
thirty yards in advance of one another. When at a 
proper distance, we made our appearance on the top of 
the ridge at the same moment, and within a few yards 
of the enemy. A more exciting or extraordinary sight it 
would be difficult to imagine. Our surprise could only 
have been equalled by that of the alligators : had they 
really been logs of timber, suddenly raised some two feet 
froni off the mud and put in motion, it would not have 
appeared to us more wonderful or grotesque than the sight 
we then beheld. They made a general rush for the river ; 
but as scarcely any two of them were in the same position, 
and none of them prepared to " cut their sticks '' so 
suddenly, their confusion was complete : they are awkward 
at turning, and appeared to tumble over one another, and 



186 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN AfiCHIPKLAGO. 

sereral of the huge upper jaws of the larger ones were 
thrown back, as if to resent the unceremonious manner in 
which thej had received a slap in the face by the 
unwieldly tail of a frightened neighbour. As might have 
been expected, our hurried discharge of bullets into the 
^' thick of them " had no more effect than those fired on 
the first occasion. Once in the water, they recovered 
their self-possession, and appeared to consider themselves 
secure : they passed up and down the river, floating 
within a few yards of where we stood, showing nothing 
above water for us to aim at more than a long ridge of 
shot-proof knobs. I observed several of them land again 
very shortly afterwards, both above and below us ; and it 
occurred to me that if I were to Ue down and remain 
quietly ready, gun in hand, on the sand, one out of the 
immense number in the river might possibly select the 
spot I had chosen to take his siesta. I had not been 
many minutes in that position, when I observed, by the 
motion of the water, that an alligator was making for the 
beach, and would probably land within a couple of yards on 
my left : no cat ever watched with more anxiety ; I saw 
the tip of his snout touch the sand, and then his long 
head and glassy eye, followed by his yellowish throat and 
disgusting-looking arms: my gun had been pointed for 
the very spot. I looked along the barrel until I observed 
the hollow which lies behind the jaw ; the fatal ball then 
penetrated his brain-box ; he turned into the water, but 
could not escape ; a deep red line carried down by the 



ALLIGATORS. 167 

tide showed how much he bled. Assistance came, and 
with a rope round his hind leg he was hauled on shore. 
He was not one of the largest, measuring only thirteen 
feet in length. I have his head together with that of 
another, eleven feet long, which I killed in the same way 
a few minutes afterwards. From what I have observed 
at different times, I imagine that aUigators, although quick 
at seeing, do not hear. The report of a musket, although 
fired within a few yards, never appeared to disturb them 
while they were floating on the water. If on the mud a 
shot struck the bank within a yard of them, they seldom 
moved unless they saw you approaching. 

It is difficult to know what is the favourite food of these 
animals. In the stomach of one of those I killed up the 
Tampico River, on the eastern coast of Mexico, vegetables 
were found ; in another were the feathers of a duck. I have 
observed them lying with their mouths wide open basking 
in a hot sun ; I was informed by a native that they catch 
flies in that manner, waiting until the mouth is covered 
with these insects and then closing it suddenly. I could 
not find anything like a tongue in the mouths of those I 
kiUed. I recoUect while blockading the river Mowar in 
the Malacca Straits, in 1833, observing the natives poking 
with sticks imder water along the bank ; they were feeling 
for the body of an old woman, who had been carried off 
by an alligator while drawing water. When they found 
the body, I observed the breasts had been eaten off as 
clean as if the operation had been performed by a surgical 



188 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

knife ; the natives informed me that that was the invariable 
custom of these animals, and then they stowed the body 
away until in a decomposed state, when they suck the 
flesh from the bone& 

Captain Ferrier, the resident at Wellesley settlement, 
once informed me of a Malay lad having come to him, and 
reported that, while sitting in the fore end of a canoe in 
which he was paddling across a lake, his father steering 
from the other end, he suddenly felt a jerk, and on looking 
round saw his parent disappearing down the throat of an 
alligator. My friend immediately took his gun and went 
with the boy, but saw nothing of the alligator that evening : 
the next day, however, the monster was seen floating on 
the surface of the water. The Captain went in chase, and 
without much difficulty came up with and ^ot the brute. 
The gas generated by the decomposition of the body 
had so inflated the alligator, that he could not sink below 
the surface. When the stomach of the animal was opened 
the lad immediately recognised his father, not so much 
altered in appearance as might have been expected from 
the strange cruise he had taken : although the skull and 
bones were crushed, the flesh on the &ce was not broken. 
The head of this monster is now, or rather was at the 
time I heard of it (1842), in London, in the Museum in 
Lincoln's Inn Fields. 

New comers in the jungle often pay dearly for seeking 
to gratify their curiosity, by prying too closely into the 
strange-looking abodes of the green ants. These insects 



THE WHITE ANT. 189 

make a hollow cylinder of leaves, the interior of which is 
inhabited by thousands of them. Their bite is severe and 
poisonous ; but the most destructive Uttle animal is the white 
ant, which in a very short time would have saved us the 
trouble of destroying the settlement. At the time it was 
given up the houses were almost iminhabitable ; some were 
tottering, some had already fallen, all were in a state of 
rapid decay through the agency of this destructive insect 
They commence their operations from the groimd by 
scooping out, in the most regular and systematic way, the 
interior of every post, stanchion, beam, or rafter. 
Should you imagine, after having given the upper part of 
your house a neat covering of green paint, and the lower 
part, what is still neater, a good dressing of coal tar, that, 
because your paint and your tar remain perfect, you have 
for one moment delayed the operations of those industrious 
little artificers, you are very much mistaken. The work 
of destruction is proceeding within, with a rapidity that 
is perfectly astonishing ; and when some fine morning, 
your very neat-looking mansion comes down by the nm, 
you discover that what remains of the once soUd material, 
of which your domicile was built, has now all the lights 
ness of the graceful and hollow bamboo without its 
stabihty. Sir William Burnett's solution of chloride of zinc 
properly applied is, I beUeve, the only composition yet 
known that will preserve anything from these all-devouring 
insects. We, (the Maander^s), had only remained long 
enough at Port Essington to be amused and interested 



190 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

with everything we saw. We had enjoyed our excursions 
into the country, and the fact of my having the control 
over a quantity of damaged bread had made the 
natives very obliging. We had corobories and dances so 
often, that frequently afterwards the kangaroo dance was 
as well performed on the main-deck of the Mceander^ many 
thousand miles from the place where it originated, as we 
had seen it on the spot. 

We destroyed, according to orders, what still remained 
of the settlement. The buildings could have been of no 
service to the natives, and would have probably been the 
cause of bloodshed between them and the other trib^L I 
said one day to my friend " Bob", the intelligent savage, 
" Do you intend to take possession of the Grovemor^s house 
after we are gone" 1 To which he replied with an air of 
indifference, " I suppose I must" I heard afterwards that 
it was the opinion of many in the tribe that '^ Bob" had 
grown so conceited that they would be under the necessity 
of putting a spear through his body, which they would 
probably do to the diaimt of some old hag. 

We had another reason for not leaving the houses in 
anything like a habitable state : had they looked too 
comfortable, there would have been inducement to other 
parties to try their hands at a settlement on the same 
spot, — an object that was not considered desu'able by the 
Government. I am afraid however that enough was left 
in the way of old iron, hoops, &c. to excite the cupidity 
of the Malayan traders, and to cause much quarrelling. 



GAPE YORK. 191 

There is no doubt that there should be some port or 
refuge for disabled ships or wrecked crews on that coast ; 
and, as soon as the corrected charts of the surveys of 
that zealous and indefatigable officer, the late Captain 
Owen Stanley, shall have been published, the channel by 
the Torres Straits will be oftener frequented. 

From the information I could collect, no point appears 
to be better adapted for the purposes required, either as a 
harbour of refuge or for the formation of a dep6t for 
coals, than Cape York. The spot itself is not only 
eligible, but it is the most convenient for the native trade 
with the Louisiana group, which again is the connecting 
link with New Guinea and the whole Indian Archipelago : 
it is moreover directly in the line, in case of steam com- 
munication that way with Sydney ; and it is dose to 
the barriers and dangers where most of the wrecks have 
as yet occurred. 

Since writing the above I have been favoured with the late 
Captain Owen Stanle/s private journal, in which, after ex- 
pressing his hopes that Port Essington might be abandoned, 
he writes, ^'But I do hope to see an establishment 
formed at Cape York or at Port Albany, which 
has all the advantages Fort Essington wants, and is 
not more than a mile out of the way of a vessel going 
from Sydney to India/' We left behind at Port Essington 
a number of cattle ; there were already many quite wild in 
the bush, that had escaped from the settlement at an 
earlier period : these will rapidly increase and multiply. 



192 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

Several horses were likewise left. In our excursions I 
frequently noticed the foot-prints not only of horses that 
had been running wild for several years, but of yoimg 
foals with them. Two fine kangaroo dogs appeared to be 
more valued than anything else by the natives. 

The garrison marching down to embark, with the band 
at their head, did not excite sufficient interest to draw the 
natives (I must except a few of the softer sex) from their 
search for what they could find, among the ruins of the 
buildings. 

Aft;er a lapse of years it will be an interesting spot to 
any of the early settlers that may chance to visit it^ 
although the bush will soon spring up where the buildings 
stood : the cocoa-nut and fruit-trees will grow higher still ; 
the pine-apple, too, if in a soil that it likes, asserts its own, 
and will grow and spread in spite of all obstacles : in the 
Island of Penang it is considered a most troublesome weed 
to eradicate. 

During our stay at Port Essington we lost our surgeon, 
Mr. John Clarke, — a man who by his kind and gentle 
manner and his amiable disposition had endeared himself 
to us all. His remains rest in the bush, in a shaded pic- 
turesque spot ; where also are deposited those of an 
amiable lady, the wife of one of the officers, with her two 
children. Poor Clarke contracted a disease at Hong Kong 
from which he never perfectly recovered. 



DEPABTX7BE FROM ESSINOTON. 198 



CHAPTER XXII. 



DIPARTUBB ntOM PORT BSSIHOTOV — BAHDA TBLAHDS — 8PI0I ISLANDS — OIRAM — DUTCH 
POLICY — BARTSA WITH NATIVX8 — NBW QUIBBA — ITS OOMMBRCIAL ATTRACTIOHS 

— ADMIRALTY ISLAITDS — ^WRW IBBLABD^PORT CARTARHT HIW BRITAIB 

STDVBT. 

Wb left Port Essington for Sydney on the Ist December, 
1849. Not being in possession of the late surveys of 
Torres Straits, ^e decided on taking the route by the 
Amboyna Sea^ and Pitt's Straits, round the north side of 
New Guinea, and so to the southward, through the passage 
known as St. Greorge's Channel, and to the eastward of the 
Barriers. As the season for the westerly winds had set in, 
we preferred this course to that by the western and 
southern coasts of Australia. 

It was also necessary for us to proceed somewhere in 
quest of water ; by reason of the continued droughts, we 
did not succeed in obtaining more at Port Essington than 
was sufficient for our daily consumption. 

Proceeding to the northward, and again crossing the 
chain of islands between the Serwatty and Tenimber 

TOL. n. o 



194 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

groups, we were brought by a few days' pleasant sailing 
to the Banda Islands. 

These, and the adjoining group of Amboyna, are the 
principal of the Dutch Spice Islands, and are of no 
great size. 

The principal islands of the Banda group are three in 
number; Banda-Neura,— on which the town is built, — 
and Gunong Api, a volcanic island close to, and in a Une 
with it : they have a narrow but deep channel between 
them. Opposite, and to the southward of these two, in a 
semicircular form, is the larger Island of Banda, having 
a rather narrow passage at either end. The space 
thus enclosed forms the very charmmg harbour of 
Banda. 

We were becalmed in the western entrance ; and, while 
the current swept us up mid-channel to the anchorage, we 
furled sails, and hoisted our boom-boats out ; and when 
we came to, close oflf the capital, we were in proper harbour 
costume. 

The view of the islands from the ship would form a very 
beautiful panorama. The picturesque town, which is built 
on a flat, ought, from the appearance of Fort Belgica above 
and in the rear of it, to be well protected. 

Gunong Api, a striking feature in the scene, is high and 
conical in shape. Smoke issued from the top, but an 
eruption had not taken place for many years. From the 
crater downwards one-third of the distance it appeared a 
mass of cinders ; from that point vegetation commences. 



BANDA ISLAND& 195 

increasing towards its base, where stand many cottages 
and fishing-huts. 

The opposite and more momitainous island surpasses 
the other two in beauty of appearance. The luxuriant 
growth of the forest and nutmeg trees, unobstructed by 
underwood, seemed to invite refreshment imder their 
shade. Little rivulets of cool and delicious water nm 
down from the highland to the harbour : from these we 
watered the ship. The woods abound in an endless 
variety of beautiful birds, especially of the pigeon sort. 
Deer are to be obtained with a little trouble. 

Some of the merchants and most of the proprietors of 
the nutmeg plantations have houses on this side. 

Nothing could exceed the kindness and consideration we 
received from every class of residents on these hospitable 
islands. There was nothing that the island produced, 
which could be considered a novelty to us, that we were 
not presented witL It would be difficult to describe the 
endless variety as well as beauty of the parrots and lowries 
that were sent on board ; also the magnificent crown 
pigeon of Papua, nearly as large as a turkey : we had as 
many as eighteen at one time, three pairs of which were 
twenty months on board ; and some of them are now in 
the gardens of the Zoological Society. 

One very pretty compliment was paid to us, which I 
must not omit to record. A ball was given by the 
(Governor in honour of our visit ; and in the course of the 
evening, shortly before midnight, the dance suddenly 

o 2 



198 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

stopped, glasses were put into our hands, champagne 
flowed into them, and the health of Queen Victoria was 
proposed by His Excellency in an appropriate speech. 
We swallowed our wine as the clock struck twelve, the 
band playing our National Anthem, while a royal salute 
was firing over our heads from the Fort, during which we 
were expected to be continually emptying and refilling our 
glasses. 

The following evening we were invited to a dance given 
on the opposite shore. Our boats were in requisition ; 
and as they passed under the stem of the frigate at 
eight o'clock, we took advantage of that opportunity 
to return the compliment by saluting the Netherlands' flag, 
which we hoisted at the mast-head, and lighted up by 
port-fires at the yard-arms, giving His Excellency and 
family three British cheers. 

Leaving Banda, en route to Pitt's Straits, we touched at 
the Coram Islands, and, under the pilotage of Mr. James 
McArthur, came to, in certainly not the most secure- 
looking anchorage, under Coram Laut. 

The Island of Coram is the second in size of the 
Moluccas, having an estimated area of about 10,000 
square miles. Owing to the jealousy of my friends 
the Dutch, it is but imperfectly known. Their object, 
until of late years, has been the extirpation of the clove 
and nutmeg trees, so as to confine the monopoly to the 
islands on which they have established Grovernments, and 
thus keep up exorbitant prices for the small quantities 



CERAM. 197 

exported. They have yet to learn the advantages to 
be derived from free trade. 

The mountains are from six to eight thousand feet in 
height, sending down innumerable streams to the sea. 
The vegetation is everywhere luxuriant, and the trees 
gigantic. I have now in my possession a circular slab 
of wood from the island, three and a half inches thick, 
eight and a half feet in diameter. The sago palm in 
particular is more abundant and productive than on any of 
the adjoining islands. Cloves and nutmegs grow wild. 

The Malays have several settlements along the coast, 
and lend themselves usefiilly to the policy of the Dutch in 
carrying out their protective system ; we have only their 
prejudiced statements for supposing the aborigines of the 
interior to be the most bloodthirsty cannibals in the Indian 
Archipelago, 

The Malays themselves, however, are cunning and 
enterprising traffickers, and carry on a great trade with 
the Chinese in B6che-de-mer. They hoist the Dutch flag ; 
and while one end of th$ island claims the protection 
of Banda^ the other has that of Amboyna. Our con- 
chologists added considerably to their collections here. 
We did not remain long at Coram. 

There is always more excitement in navigating imper- 
fectly-known seas, than in passing over the more 
frequented tracks ; and on the present occasion our charts 
were of little use. By anchoring in the evenings, and 
by keeping a good look out from aloft, and leadsi 



198 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

constantly over the side, we were enabled to thread our 
way through strange places. 

At noon on 21st December, we entered Pitt's Straits, — a 
narrow channel about forty-five miles in length, separating 
Batanta from Salawatty : these are two small islimds, off 
the north-west coast of Papua or New Guinea. 

We had been for some days past working up against 
a strong breeze with a proportionate sea. The sudden 
change into perfectly smooth water was very enjoyable. 
The sea was deep blue, as was the serene sky overhead : 
instead of looking out to windward for squalls with rain, 
we now gazed pleasantly on a luxuriant jungle which 
mounted on either side far above our mast-head. 
Beautiful birds in endless variety added Ufe and interest 
to the scene ; nor did it decrease as we proceeded. As 
is usual in narrow channels, and under high land, we had 
the winds baflKng, — coming off on either side in strong and 
sudden puffs, sometimes striking the ship aloft, without 
giving us the usual notice of such a visit by so much as a 
ripple on the surface of the water. The channel, too, was 
just sufficiently tortuous to prevent our seeing any distance 
before us ; so that, as each point was rounded, some 
pleasing variation would present itself in the already 
beautifiil scenery, such as one can never be tired of 
looking at. Occasionally canoes came off, as the tide 
swept us along. The jungle was too dense for us to make 
out any habitations, but their locahty was indicated by 
the appearance of that most useful of all trees, the 



NEW GUINEA. 199 

cocoa-nut, as well ajs by a break in the otherwise rock- 
bound coast, a patch of white sandy beach, on which 
there was not suflicient ripple to prevent the smallest boat 
from landing. Either fear or laziness prevented the 
natives from coming alongside in any niunbers. I 
obtained two fine specimens of the black bird-of-Paradise, 
in exchange for an old musket. The rest of their 
cargoes were composed of fruits, bows and arrows, parrots, 
shells, spears, and tortoise-shelL The natives are well- 
proportioned, but ugly-lookmg savages, with a profusion 
of hair frizzed out in an extraordinary manner, which 
I have no doubt ,they thought very handsome, biit which 
only impressed us with the idea of a dense harbour 
for filth and vermin. 

As there is no anchorage, it is desirable that a ship 
should get through Pitt's Straits in one tide ; which feat 
we just succeeded in accomplishing by sunset On 
emerging from the straits, we found the wmd still blowing 
fresh from the westward, with a following swell, and a 
strong easterly set ; but, as our course now lay in that 
direction, before the following morning we were many 
miles on our voyage, and thereby missed seeing a large 
portion of the northern coast of New Guinea, a country 
about which there appears to be more interesting mystery 
than any we had visited. 

The interior of this magnificent island, 900 miles in 
length, is less known even than Coram, or any of the 
Indian Archipelago ; and yet it is supposed not only to 



200 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN AECHIPELAGO. 

abound in mineralfl, but to possess a fertility of soil, and — 
from its tiers of hills rising into distant mountains — a 
variety of climate capable of producing every fruit or 
vegetable that grows within the tropics. 

For the naturalist I beUeve that no country in 
the world is equally rich in beautiful rare birds and 
beasts. 

The little we saw of the natives confirmed what we 
had heard, — ^that they are a finer race than any of 
the islanders : nor do I believe that their ferocity and 
cannibalism is carried to the extent reported. A few 
communities along the coast may, front former ill-treat- 
ment by the more civilised pale-faced man, have become 
suspicious and treacherous ; but I would fidn hope that a 
country, on which Nature appears to have been so 
boimtiftd, is not marred in its principal feature, by pos- 
sessing a race of inhabitants such as they have been 
described. 

The country of New Guinea offers an inviting and 
unbounded field to the philanthropist. The well-directed 
operations of a few high-minded capitalists — nay, of one 
individual of exactly the right stamp— might open such a 
market for European productions as would soon return 
any preliminary outlay "tenfold into their bosoms.'' 
New Guinea invites and calls for a just Government^ and 
a system of protection to the oppressed, as once did 
Sarawak. There are similar materials to work upon : but 
not every day are individuals to be found willing to 



PURDYS ISLETa 201 

sacrifice health and fortune for the benefit of strangers 
and succeeding generations. 

We did not notice any canoes off* the New Guinea 
coast. This may be accounted for by its open and 
exposed position. On the southern side, which is pro- 
tected by a coral reef, the natives appear to live as much 
on the water as in their jungle. The smoke rising in 
various directions on the higher ground was proof to us 
that the population extended considerably into the 
Ulterior. 

On the 23rd December we passed between the Islands 
of Mysore and Jobie, both mountainous. 

24th. — We passed Point D'Urville. It had been our 
intention to visit Humboldt Bay, as laid down in the 
chart, that we might see something more of that country 
and its people ; but to our disappointment the strong 
current carried us past it in the night. 

As the New Guinea coast now declined to the south- 
east, we stood on for the Admiralty Islands. 

On the 29th we made Purd/s Islets, which, by our 
reckoning, were twenty miles further to the eastward 
than is laid down in the chart suppUed by the Admiralty. 
They are small low islands, covered with trees ; and the 
Bat, which appears as two islands, has shoal-water and 
reefe round it. The shoal marked "Breakers" in the 
chart does not exist in the position there given ; nor do 
I believe it to exist at all. The Mouse and Mole do not 
appear to have any dangers near them. The smaller 



202 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ABCHIPELAGO. 

of the two Bats is covered with cocoa-nut or 
palm-trees. 

30th. — We observed a succession of islands ; and 
steered for one that appeared the easternmost of the 
Admiralty group. On nearing the land just after 
midnight, and obtaining no soundings with the deep sea 
lead, we sent boats ahead to sound ; this being observed 
by the natives, whom we supposed to be fishing, no small 
consternation among them was the consequence, as they 
made known to us by a proportionate yelling. 

The wind having died away, the tide carried us into 
about fifty fathoms' depth of water, where we held on 
with the kedge-anchor, until dayUght should appear. 

If our boats had created a sensation among the 
savages, great indeed was their surprise at the appear- 
ance of the ship. The noise produced by blowing into a 
shell of the Triton species was everywhere heard ; and 
having, I doubt not, buried or otherwise concealed a vast 
quantity of rubbish, they disappeared themselv^ ; so that 
shortly after daylight there was not the vestige of a 
habitation nor a human being, besides ourselves, to 
be seen. 

It was curious to watch, when they found that we took 
no steps to draw them out, how carefully and cautiously 
the savages came from their hiding-places. One emerged 
from the bush, naked as he was bom : we thought, at first, 
that this was his way of proving to us how httle we might 
expect to get from him ; but they were all in the same 



ADMIRALTY ISLANDS. 208 

undress uniform. Then another would come forth, spear 
in hand ; soon after, the snout of a small canoe was seen 
to protrude from under the bush. It would be tedious to 
enumerate the cunning and cautious " dodges/' the 
number of times they retreated and again hid themselves, 
on the slightest movement on our parts, before any of 
them ventured to approach ; before 1 o'clock, however, 
the water, for a cable's length round the ship, was covered 
with grotesque canoes, and still more odd-looking natives. 

A general barter soon commenced, accompanied by a 
noise and screeching that was deafening ; and reciprocal 
confidence was soon estabhshed. The natives are fine- 
looking men, of a dark olive colour, with long black hair, 
which they confine in a lump, at the back of their head, 
by a small hoop or band. There was one old lady with 
grey hair, seated imder a canopy in her canoe, who was 
paddled round the ship several times, and appeared much 
interested in what was going on ; but she did not venture 
very near. We did not find out who she was. Several 
dialects were attempted between us, but none succeeded. 
Their canoes were of various sizes ; a few must have 
measured seventy or eighty feet in length, carrying about 
twenty men each. 

On the morning of the 4th we passed to the northward 
of Sandwich Island, which is low and undulating: we 
found it thirty-five miles E.S.E. of the position it has on the 
chart ; and the coast of New Ireland proportionably out. 
We then ran along the land to the southward, — the 



204 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

weather fine and the water smooth. The land of New 
Ireland appears to have one high long ridge, intersected 
by gullies and ravines, and covered with a dense jungle, 
which renders the scenery very beautifiil. 

We were visited along the whole length of the coast 
by a constant succession of canoes, with natives very 
similar to those of the Feejee Islands. Although they 
came alongside, none of them could be induced to come on 
board. They had a vast quantity of hair, frizzed out, and 
coloured white, black, or red. 

A man, having his hair carefully divided down the 
middle, would present one side covered with a jet black 
mixture, while the other half would be of a bright red or 
perhaps white. The men, five or six in number, belonging 
to the same canoe, were generally coloured uniformly. 
Suppose a canoe with a black crew to have paddled up to 
one side of the ship ; presently, while your attention was 
occupied elsewhere, they would shift round to the other 
side ; but lo 1 now the crew was white. It is not easy 
to believe that black is white ; yet here it was so : one 
and the same crew were black on the port and white on 
the starboard side. Others with their hair cut short, 
and covered over with some dirty thick gluey substance, 
would paint a white ring round the head just above the 
eyes and ears, with a line under the chin. It was difficult 
to believe that the head was not confined in a close-fitting 
scull-cap. 

The symmetry of their shape was in no way hidden by 



CATCHING A SHARK 205 

clothes, as paint was the only covering they condescended 
to wear. 

One and all were clamorous for barter : — empty 
bottles, buttons, and bits of iron hoop, were most in 
demand. Clothes, or the materials for making them, were 
treated with great contempt. Their canoes were carved 
out of one tree, and generally from thirty to fifty feet in 
length : they have outriggers, to give them stability, which 
were very inconvenient for coming alongside. 

We were puzzled at one time to make out the use of a 
curiously formed piece of wood, about four feet long, and 
in shape very like a whale boat, but solid : from a hole in 
the centre descended a strong cord of twisted rattan, 
forming a running noose, like a hangman^s knot. The 
mystery was solved shortly after. As I was leaning out 
of the cabin windows, when there was just sufficient wind 
to give the ship steerage- way, I observed a shark swim- 
ming leisurely along some twenty fathoms below the 
surfece. The natives from their canoes observed the 
monster about the same time. In a few minutes several 
of these oddly shaped buoys were dropped into the water. 
Some of our people fancy they saw them sprinkle a 
powder in a sort of magic circle round the buoys ; I did 
not observe them use any bait : what charm they used, if 
any, we did not ascertain ; but certain it is that the shark 
shortly after rose, and was fool enough to shove his head 
into the fatal noose, when he was as completely hanged in 
his own element as ever rogue was from the gallows tree. 



206 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN AECHIPELAGa 

The buoyancy of the float prevented his diving with it 
Having flourished his tail about for twenty minutes, he 
was drawn up by his head on a level with the water, and 
there belaboured with the heavy end of their paddles 
until he seemed satisfied that further resistance was 
useless ; they then tumbled him bodily into the canoe, 

and hurried on shore amidst the yelling of the whole 
flotilla, where no doubt he underwent the further process 
of dissection. 

On the 5th we diverged a Kttle from the coast for 
Duke of York's Island, intending to water in Port Hunter ; 
but not finding it on the north side in the position 
described, the following day, after some little difficulty in 
threading our way between shoal patches and rocks, we 
anchored m the centre of some smaU islands which 
appeared to form a good harbour ; but we did not succeed 
in finding the watering-place. 

These islands seem to be thickly populated. The 
natives are of a darker cast, and of a more savage 
expression than those we had lately seen. Several of 
them bore fresh scars, an attack having lately been made 
on them by some warlike tribe from the adjoining coast of 
New Guinea. Their canoes were much the same in 
appearance as those of the New Irelanders, except that 
a rough attempt was made to ornament the stem and 
stern with a representation of some nondescript bird or 
reptile. 

We discovered afterwards that Port Hunter was 



NEW IRELAND. 207 

more on the north-east side of Duke of York's 
Island. 

On the 8th we again crossed over to the New Ireland 
coast, and then stood to the southward, between that and 
New Britain, the scenery of which was of surpassing 
beauty. There were extensive green slopes, which, from 
a distance, appeared to have been cleared by cultivation : 
but we ascertained that such was not the case. 

We now looked out for a harbour near the southern 
end of New Ireland,— discovered by and named after a 
Captain Carteret, — ^where fresh water was to be obtained : 
it is a place occasionally visited by English and American 
whalers, — ^as was proved by a salutation which met our 
ears, while we were standing in for the shore. " What ship 
that ? '' shouted a black savage, one of a party in a canoe ; 
" Tobac got ! ''— " God dam ! "— " Rum got 1 "— " Give 
rope ! '' — while deUvering himself of these lessons in English 
and American, and without waiting for an invitation, he 
sprang into the main chains, and thence on the quarter- 
deck. 

The manners of these savages were not at all improved 
by their intercourse with more civilised nations. 

Port Carteret is formed by a bight in the land, pro- 
tected by a small island called Coco : in &ct it is nothing 
more than a channel between the island and the main- 
land of New Ireland, and so deep is the water that it 
hardly deserves to be called a harbour. We anchored in 
forty fathoms, — the best berth we could find, — close to 



208 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN AECHTPELAGO. 

the north-east end of Coco. We were sheltered from any 
swell of the sea ; but we had not^ in case of a breeze 
much room to veer in. 

Fruit, yams, and pigs are to be obtained by barter, but 
no poultry ; nor did we see any after leaving Coram, 
where no Malay is seen without a cock under his arm. 
The water, where we anchored, was so beautifully clear, 
that in forty fathoms deep the coral, shells, and seaweed 
growing on the bottom could be distinctly seen, and give 
it all the appearance of a beautiful submarine garden. 

The creek up which we found the fresh water is on 
the New Ireland side, in the N.N.E. angle. It seemed 
formed by nature for a dock. Although there is not room 
to swing, there is great depth of water, and numerous 
large trees to which a ship of any size may be secured, 
head and stem. 

While the ship was watering, we formed a party, 
and, under guidance of a savage who spoke and understood 
a Httle English, started oflF to visit one of their villages. 

Having pulled along the beach to the northward for a 
short distance, outside the harbour, we landed opposite 
some fishing huts ; and, striking into the forest, followed a 
jungle path for about a mile ; this brought us to a col- 
lection of perhaps 200 huts ; they scarcely however 
deserved that name; each dwelling being nothing more 
than a circular hole, three feet deep, over which a thatch 
was thrown, and into which we were obliged to creep on all 
fours. The women were certainly not shy ; both sexes 



CARTERET HARBOUR. 209 

were " dressed" alike in a small apron made from the 
bark of a tree. Furniture they had none ; and little to 
tempt us to prolong our visit ; while myriads of ravenous 
mosquitos made the usual attack on the pale skins. 

Not seeing any gardens, and knowing the natives to 
have supplied the ship well with vegetables, we made them to 
understand our curiosity on the subject : they explained that 
their cultivated ground was further off, and offered to show 
us the way. They led us by a pleasant walk through the 
jungle ; we met on our way several detached parties of men, 
women, and children, carrying on their heads to the village 
the daily supply of vegetables, consisting of tapa, yams, 
cassava root, and plantains. Half an hour brought us to 
the banks of a broad and rapid stream, tumbling and 
roaring over rocks and large stones. The water through 
which we had to wade was about three feet deep. On 
the opposite side were the gardens. We were astonished, 
not only at the neatness and pretty appearance of the 
ground, but at the order that prevailed where no one 
appeared to rule. Each section of the village seemed to 
have its allotted portion. Parties arrived, cut, and cairied 
their vegetables away in perfect quiet. Our party roamed 
about in twos and threes, while the savages were in tens 
and twenties ; this however was scarcely prudent, as they 
might, had they been in the humour, have easily disposed 
of the white men. All accounts describe the natives 
about Carteret harbour as not only grasping and avaricious, 
but treacherous and cunning cannibals. One man, who 

VOL. II. P 



210 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

spoke a little English, denied to me that they ever ate 
men : he, however, admitted that, when they killed an 
enemy, they occasionally eat the palm of his hand, or 
some such dainty bit. We got away firom these dreadful 
characters without having been molested in any way, — 
although on the afternoon previous to our visit to the 
village, one of the officers had found it necessary to 
protect himself from robbery in a summary manner. 
He had been shooting, but had discharged his gun 
just before getting into a canoe with two natives, 
who offered to convey him on board. An attempt 
was made by them to take forcible possession of 
his watch ; but, being a very powerful young man, he 
threw one of the savages into the water ; and, standing 
over the other, prepared to break his head with 
the butt end of his gun, compelled him to paddle 
along-side. 

On the whole, we were much pleased with this our first 
opportunity of seeing something of the domestic habits of 
these strange people. 

Judging from recent sketches, taken during the visit of 
the Rattlesnake surveying-vessel, of the dwellings and 
natives on the south coast of New Guinea, I should think 
that their habits and customs are much the same as those 
of the people to whom we paid this visit. I have since 
been confirmed in this opinion by the perusal of Captain 
Owen Stanley's private journals. " In passing Roasell 
Island," he writes, " in shore we could see their habitations 



ARRIVAL AT SYDNEY. 211 

beautifully situated under groves of cocoa-nut trees, with 
well-laid-out gardens around them, in which the plants 
were placed with as much regularity as any fitrmer in 
England would sow a crop of com \" 

Early on the morning of the 12th January we sent a 
division of boats to examine "Wallis's harbour. 

We got under-weigh in the afternoon, and late that 
evening picked the boats up. They reported "Wallis's 
harbour as less safe than Carteret, and unfit for a large 
ship. 

13th. — At sunset we passed Cape St. Greorge, the 
southern point of New Ireland, and once more found 
ourselves in the open sea. 

17th.— We passed the Laughlan Islands. 

On the 20th we communicated with some natives on 
Rossell Island; but all the land in these parts is both 
misnamed and misplaced in the charts with which we 
were supplied. I have since found by reference to the 
excellent survey by Captain Owen Stanley, which will 
shortly be published by the Admiralty, that what we 
took for Rossell must have been the small Island of 
Adfele. 

On the 5th February we again made the Austrahan 
coast, and on the 7th arrived at Port Jackson, 
Sydney. 

The effect on entering this harbour is very beautiful : 
but just at this time it was much spoiled by a bush fire, 
which had overrun the country, destroying a great deal 

p 2 



212 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

of property ; and so rapid had been the spread of the 
conflagration, that even some lives had been lost We 
found the Rattlesnake surveying-ship, commanded by 
my friend Captain Owen Stanley, who had just 
returned from an arduous and interesting survey of 
Torres Straits. 



rORT JACKSON. 123 



CHAPTER XXIII. 



PORT JACKSON — DAY DOCK ON COCKATOO ISLAND — YISIT THK iMTKfilOR WITH SIR 

CHAKLB8 riTZROT DEATH OV CAPTAIN OWEN STANLBT SHORT MEKOIR OP BIS 

SBRVIOXS — BXTRACTS PROM HIS PRIYilTl JOURNAL HIS PUNERAL. 

I HAD long wished for an opportunity of visiting this 
fifth continent, Australia ; nor were the high anticipations 
I had formed of this fine colony at all disappointed, as we 
sailed into the splendid harbour of Port Jackson. The 
entrance to it would not be easily discovered fi^om the sea, 
were it not for a very fine Ughthouse, which, however, 
appears to me to be placed on the wrong headland ; and 
I can imderstand how it was that Captain Cook, in the first 
instance, overlooked it on his way to Botany Bay. 
I beUeve the opening between the headlands was first 
discovered by a seaman named Jackson, who observed it 
from the mast-head of a ship, in which he was passing to 
Botany Bay. 

There is a splendid dock forming on Cockatoo Island, 
under the able superintendence of Mr. Mann, the 
advantages of which will be incalculable. 



214 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

The following are the dimensions on which it was 
constructing when I was there in 1850 :— 

Length. — Level of top altar from maide of pier . . 266 feet 

Ditto ditto keel floor 226 „ 

Breadth. — Interior lerel of top altar . . 76 „ 

Ditto of floor 84 „ 

Ditto at entrance H. W. lerel 57 ft 3 in. 

Ditto ditto top of piers 58 feet 

Height of pier OTcr H. W. level 2 „ 

Water over Caisson sill 20 „ 

The rise and fall of tide may be stated at five feet, and 
the datum for the foregoing depth will be determined firom 
H. W. mark spring-tides. 

In the Grovemor, Sir Charles Fitzroy, I found a friend 
of many years' standing, and I cannot say how much 
I enjoyed my sojourn with him. His children I had 
known when they were of the same age as the 
grand-children who now enliven Grovemment House : 
but however agreeable it may be to myself to dwell 
on this subject, it cannot be very interesting to my 
readers. 

Sir Charles, who was going to make a short tour into 
the interior of the colony, not only kindly took me with 
him, but mounted me from his own first-rate stable ; and 
as His Excellency rode some six stone more than I could 
boast of, I never knew what it was, throughout the journey, 
to ride a tired horse ; fortunately also I had not left my 
leathers at home, so that there was no drawback to my 
enjoyment. "While we travelled on horseback, a light van 



CAPTAIN OWEN STANLEY. 215 

conveyed our luggage, certainly the most agreeable mode 
of seeing any country. 

As I can add nothing new to that which has been so 
lately described, in an interesting work by Colonel Mundy, 
I shall not attempt it here : it is sufficient to state that I 
partook of the hospitality and came in for a share of the 
sincere and hearty welcome, with which Sir Charles was 
everywhere so deservedly received. 

It was while we were absent on this tour, and a Uttle 
more than a fortnight after our first arrival at Port 
Jackson, that the naval service sustained a severe loss by 
the death of Captain Owen Stanley, of Her Majesty's 
surveying-vessel Rattlesnake. We had been many years 
acquainted ; and I cannot help avaihng myself of this 
opportunity of expressing my deep regret, and my sym- 
pathy with the many to whom he was so justly dear. 

He was of modest and retiring habits ; and Tvhatever 
his intentions may have been, I am not aware that he ever 
published any portion of the interesting private journal, 
which he regularly kept during the time he vraa employed 
on his various surveys. 

At the anniversary meeting on the 26th of May, 1851, 
of the Royal Geographical Society of London, during an 
address delivered by Captain "W. H. Smyth, R.N., after 
alluding to the deaths of several distinguished members of 
their Society, that officer thus proceeds : — 

" But geographically speaking, the greatest loss suffered 
by the society in the past year is that of Captain Owen 



216 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN AECHIPELAGO. 

Stanley, son of the Bishop, in the thirty-ninth year of his 
age. After passing through the Royal Naval College, this 
officer embarked on board the Druid^ frigate ; and, having 
served his noviciate in several ships, was appointed to the 
Adventure, Captain P, P. King, at Valparaiso, to assist in 
the exploration of the Straits of Magellan. This was his 
first initiation as a nautical surveyor ; and, in consequence 
of being placed under the tuition of some of my former 
officers, he was wont good-humouredly to claim scientific 
relationship with myself. Having been promoted to the 
rank of Lieutenant, he was appointed to assist his friend, 
the present Captain Graves, in the Mediterranean, where 
he examined the Gulf of Lepanto, in a small boat, which 
he afterwards hauled over the Isthmus of Corinth, and 
rejoined his ship at Vourlah, after an absence of eighty- 
four days. In 1836 he was appointed to the Terror^ 
Captain Sir George Back, on her expedition to the Polar 
Regions, in search of Sir John Ross ; and on this perilous 
voyage, he had charge of the astronomical and magnetic 
operations. He was afterwards appointed to the command 
of the Britomart, in which vessel he aided in forming 
the colony of Port Essington, and made a track 
survey of the Arafiira Sea, with other work. He 
became a Captain in September, 1844, and in 1846 was 
appointed to the Rattlesnake, a small frigate expressly 
fitted for carrying on a survey in the Indian and 
Australian Seas. 

" Captain Stanley's hydrographical labours in this 



HIS SURVEYING LABOURS. 217 

ship may be thus summed up : — A survey of Simon's Bay, 
Cape of .Good Hope, on a large scale ; plans of Twofold 
and Botany Bays on the east coast of Australia ; a plan 
of the entrance of Port Jackson, to show how far that 
harbour is available for the largest class of ships-of-war ; a 
plan of Port Curtis and the entrance to Moreton Bay ; and 
eleven sheets of the north-east coast of Australia, from 
Rockingham Bay to Lewis Island, marking the inner route 
between the Barrier reefs and the main land. 

" He also re-examined eight channels through Torres 
Straits, five of which were previously unknown. 

" Captain Stanley in this charge, as in every task he 
undertook, devoted his whole time and energy to the 
fulfilment of the duties entrusted to him by the Lords 
Commissioners of the Admiralty; and he was fond of 
scientific pursuits generally, beyond the usual acquirements 
of an ordinary nautical surveyor, — a class of which he 
proved himself, by his works, so able and distinguished an 
example. His health had been declining under the 
fatigues and anxieties attendant upon the arduous labour 
of surveying in inter-tropical cKmates, among coral reefe, 
strange currents, and many physical and moral evils ; and 
he had complained of illness on his passage from the 
Louisiade Islands to Port Jackson. At Cape York he 
first heard of the death of his brother, Captain Charles E. 
Stanley, of the Royal Engineers ; and, on his arrival 
in Sydney, he was informed of the decease of his father, 
tlie tidings of which were conveyed by his former Com- 



218 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN AECHIPELAGO. 

mander, Captain P. P. King. These bereavements preyed 
upon hi8 mind. and. a<^ing upon a system already much 
debilitated, had a fatal termination, and brought his 
valuable life to a sudden close on the 13th of March, 1850." 

In another pai-t of Captain Smyth's address, under the 
head of " Our own Labours,'^ he says, " Of the Aus- 
tralian Seas, the truly devoted exertions of the late Captain 
Stanley, have given to us in the southern coast of New 
Guinea a gratifying conviction that the Admiralty, having 
thus broken ground in the Pacific, will steadily advance 
from group to group, till its islands possess a somewhat 
less chaotic appearance in our charts." 

Of all the different parts of the globe to which the 
scientific researches of our Hydrographical Office at the 
Admh-alty, under its present enterprising Chief, Admiral 
Sir Francis Beaufort, extend, there can be none of more 
interest and importance than that, on which the Raitie- 
snake had lately been employed. 

Mrs. Stanley, having kindly favoured me with a perusal 
of her son's private letters, as well as journals, I am 
enabled, by a few extracts, to show what were his real 
feehngs, and with what untiring zeal he pursued the duties 
of the charge entrusted to him. Those only who have 
perused these interesting manuscripts can form any 
idea of the intense labour and anxiety with which he had 
to contend. 

The commander of a surveying expedition has not only 
to cut out the work to be done, but has to select those 



TOERES STRAITS. 219 

officers who, from peculiarities of taste, are most likely 
to perform each duty well Some will take to the 
calculating part ; others prefer the boat-work ; then 
there are naturalists, and artists, each anxious for an 
opportunity of indulging his particular fancy. Boats, too, 
have to be sent on distant service ; in these excursions 
there are always chances of their coming into collision 
with the natives ; sudden and frequent gales, too, spring 
up in those seas, causing much anxiety. 

All these various duties require a clear head, and, to 
get them done properly, the example in the Chief of an 
evenness of temper and a happy cheerful disposition : 
these qualities my lamented friend eminently possessed. 

The frequent prevalence of hazy weather about 
Torres Straits not allowing ships an opportunity of 
correcting their observations, so as to ascertain their 
exact position, imaginary dangers had been so often 
reported and inserted from time to time on the charts, 
that the surveys of Captain King had been cruelly altered 
and twisted about, and appeared anything but correct ; 
the errors into which masters of vessels had fidien were 
attributed to strong and irregular tides, frequently stirring 
up the mud and sand, so as to give the surface of the 
water the appearance of shoals, when in reality fifteen or 
twenty fathoms were frequently found in such places. It 
afforded Captain Owen Stanley no small gratification to be 
able to prove that his friend's survey was a correct one. 

The scientific details of the Rattlesnake's expedition 



220 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

have been so recently published, that I will confine myself 
to a few extracts from private communications to members 
of his family, which may give the unprofessional reader 
some idea of a surveying oflBcer's duties and responsi- 
bilities. 

In a letter to his mother under date of Dec. 14th, 
1848, he writes : — " We have completed ten charts, each 
of which contains more work and more soundings than the 
one you saw ; and as I can find no one who can shade the 
hills, and do the finishing part of the work, I do it myself ; 
and have in addition the final working of all the astronomical 
calculations, in order to detect any errors, — then come all 
the sailing directions for the different reefe and shoals how 
you are to steer, N. E. or N.W. till such a rock bears so 
and so. After this comes a general description of the 
various points and anchorages, iUustrated by drawings 
showing their appearances from every point from which 
you may approach them : and lastly, a detailed account 
of the various steps and methods by which the survey haa 
been carried on ; so that, in addition to ipy charts, I have 
a very large amount of information to send home, and no 
small quantity of writing." 

After completing the survey of the inner passage, and 
visiting Port Essington, the Rattlesnake returns to Sydney, 
where she arrives Jan. 24th, 1849. '' RatUemake leaves 
Moreton Bay May 26th, 1849, en rouie to survey the 
Louisiade Archipelago and southern coast of New 
Guinea. 



SURVEYING. 221 

"The S. E. trade having now fairly set in with fine 
weather, we are speeding merrily along across this 
unknown sea filled with coral reefs and shoals, to 
commence our work upon what is most likely the least 
known portion of the globe/' 

It would appear that the French Expedition under 
D'Entrecasteaux and D'Urville contented themselves with 
distant views of the land from the outer edge of the Barrier 
ree^ which they took great care not to approach too closely ; 
but with patience and perseverance Stanley hoped to be 
more fortunate. — On June 13th, his journal continues, 
" My birthday, and a better day could not be chosen for 
the commencement of our survey/' All that day, with 
the Bramble ahead, they search in vain for an opening in 
the coral reef " till the setting sun warned them off a 
coast where the lead is of Uttle or no use/' 

On the second day, after many hours' sailing, the Bramble 
observes a narrow blue line making a break in the Barrier 
reef ; she gets in and telegraphs — " the passage, although 
narrow, is practicable;" and the Rattlesnake follows. 
" It was not,'' he writes, " till we were fairly in it, that 

I saw how very narrow it was The water 

remained deep some little time, leading me to fear 
that we should not find anchorage inside ; but, after 
a few minutes of the most intense anxiety, I had the 
ple^ure of hearing 'Matthews' sing *by the deep eleven/" 
After anchoring, they observe a village near them, the 
natives so shy that the writer adds, "I think they 



222 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

never can by any chance have seen Europeans before, for 
I am sure none but surveying vessels would have come 
through the channel that we did, guided almost entirely 
by looking down on the reefe from the mast-head ; we are 
now, thank goodness, fairly in for it, right in the inner part 
of the Archipelago, with every chance of being able 
to explore places no civilised person has ever yet 



seen/' 



* * 



"Amongst the many ornaments worn as brace- 
lets by these people, we saw several who wore a 
human jaw-bone with all its teeth, a little above the 
elbow of the left arm.'* The upper side, to form the 
armlet, was formed (according to Mac GiUivray) by one 
or more collar bones crossing from one angle to the other, 
"one of which we obtained to-day at a very cheap rate. 
I have no doubt that a white man's skull would be the 
most precious thing they could possess ; and I am not quite 
sure that some of the naturalists on board would not be 
just as glad to get hold of one of theirs. I can fancy the 
Doctor and Mr. Huxly superintending the boiling down, 
and subsequent steps required to prepare a skull, should we 
by misfortune become possessed of one,— I say misfortime, 
because I hope to be able to continue the survey as we 
have commenced, without getting into any row with the 
natives, who, from what we have yet seen, appear to be 
much superior to those on the eastern coast of Australia, 
but are not to be trusted one inch.'* 



SAVAGE ORNAMENTa 223 

These people must consult the same '^Magasin des 
Modes " as the inhabitants of the " PeUcan Island : " 

" Bracelets of human teeth, fiings of wild beasts, 
The jaws of sharks, and beaks of rayenons birds, 
Glitter'd and tinkled round their arms and ancles ; 
While skulls of slaughter'd enemies, in chains 
Of natural elf-locks, dangled from the necks 
Of those whose own bare skulls and cannibal teeth 
Ere long must deck more puissant fiends than they.** 

June 25th, 1849. — Captain Stanley went away in his 
gig to examine a watering place, "and had to pull 
about a mile up a narrow winding creek, with the most 
luxuriant vegetation on each side, till at last we reached a 
rocky barrier extending from one side of the creek to the 
other, over which a most beautiftd cascade of good water 
was falling, so as to ensure an abundant supply. As in 
these surveys water is always the thing that fails first, I 
cannot tell you the relief to my mind when we found such 
a supply, which will render us nearly independent till we 
reach Cape York." 

July 2nd, 1849. — Having completed water. Rattlesnake 
proceeds a short distance further on. 

July 4th. — On one occasion, being anxious to open a 
friendly communication with the natives, " having beached 
the galley,'' Captain Stanley writes : — " I landed alone and 
unarmed 1(except a small double-barrelled pistol in my 
pocket) and went towards the natives, who came forward 
in considerable numbers all armed with spears, and 
evidently very much inclined to distrust the nature of our 
visit. The galley's crew had orders to fire in case of any 



224 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

attack being attempted on me ; but I must confess it was 
rather nervous work advancing alone^ as the natives did 
not seem to wish to have any communication with us : but 
at last, having got' within twenty yards of them, I tied a 
piece of coloured handkerchief to a stump on the beach and 
retired, making signs to them to come and take it. After 
some Uttle hesitation one man came forward, the rest soon 
followed, and in less than five minutes I had the whole 

tribe round me eagerly asking for iron hoop" 

July 6th, 1849. — "The pinnace and galley returned to- 
day from a four days' cruise, and reported having had a 
row with the natives." It appears that three canoes con- 
taining about ten natives each went along-side first one 
boat and then the other, under pretence of barter, and then 
took to helping themselves ; on the boatman refiising to 
let them take the galley's anchor, they struck him over 
the head with a stone axe, while another struck the cox- 
swain ; blows were exchanged ; the pinnace fired, and the 
natives ran away. Captain Stanley writes : — " I hope our 
friends have had a lesson which they will not forget in a 
hurry ; and our people too, in spite of all I could tell them 
of my experience to the contrary, were beginning to think 
that implicit confidence might be placed in these natives, as 
they seemed to be so much more civiUsed than those of 
Australia — but it will lessen our chance of friendly com- 
munication with them, which I am sorry for on the natives' 
account, as they might have obtained so very many 
valuable things from us." 



SURVEYING. 225 

• 

Captain Stanley remained at anchor under the reef 
suflSdently long to enable them to lay down the diflFerent 
observations that had been obtained for the construction 
of the charts. They then proceeded, directing the 
Bramble with some of the boats to continue the survey 
of the 'long-shore coast, while he in the RaiUesnake took 
the outer part of the work, as they could see much further 
from the more commanding height of the mast-head than 
from the boats. 

July 10th, 1849. — " So this morning away we all went 
most merrily, the ship with the two galleys skimming 
ahead like pilot-fish, to give notice of any shoal-water we 
might not see. As we neared the Barrier reef, the detached 
reefs became so numerous, and the channels between them 
so narrow, that I had to anchor in about as deep water as 
we had at Madeira, and send the boats to look round ; for 
it is very eaay to get into a mass of these small reefe, with 
a fair wind ; but getting back again is not so easily done ; 
so that for the next two or three days we are most likely 
to be channel-hunting, which though of importance to us, 
will be of very little interest to you. From July 10th 
to 16th, we remained at an anchor off the Barrier reefs, 
and every day sent the boats away, in the hope of 
finding a practicable passage, but in vain. On the 15th, 
Lieutenant Simpson in the pinnace returned from the 
in-shore party, stating that there was every appearance of 
a clear channel to seaward from the point they had 
reached ; but in order to get there I had to retrace 

VOL. IL Q 



226 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN AKCHIPELAGO, 

mj steps for more than thirty mil^^ and then had a most 

intricate passage to thread my -way through, and it 
was very interesting and exciting work : first went the 

pinnace to show the way, Simpson and another man taller 
than he being perched on the spread yard to look out 
for shoals ; then came the two galleys, whose orders were 
to keep directly ahead of the ship ; and, lastly, under 
topsails jib and spanker, came the old ship, with Brown 
at the mast-head. Suckling and myself on the poop. To 
give you some little idea of the ground we had to go over, 
I merely mention two out of the many cases that hap- 
pened : being anxious to come to, and having for some 
time obtained regular soundings, with from twenty to 
twenty-five fathoms, we took in the sail, and made all ready 
to let the anchor go ; but before giving the final orders one 
more cast of the deep sea lead was got, showing that in 
less than the tenth of a mile the depth had increased 
from twenty to forty fathoms, — ^rather too deep to anchor 
in — so we had to make sail again. In the second case the 
two galleys and pinnace about a mile aliead of the ship, 
but close to each other at the time, made the signal 
at having struck soundings ; the pinnace showed thirty-jm 
fathoms, one galley fourteen^ the other y?w ; directly after 
the pinnace showed three fathoms. Though the most 
carefiil look-out was kept from the mast-head, the shoals 
were often quite close to the ship before they were seen. 
Dirty weather — difficulty in finding anchorage — unknown 
danger — nervous work — especially at night." 



SURVEYING. 227 

July 28th. — Soundings gained in 20 fathoms ; sail is 
shortened, and anchor let go ; but in the time required for 
taking the sail in, the ship had drifted into deep water. 
" Here then we were in a pretty plight, an anchor 
and ninety fathoms of chain-cable hanging to the bows ; 
the reef not a mile from us, towards which the tide 
Was setting ; the pinnace had only one more day's 
provisions; and the sea was too heavy for her to 
work outside, and too heavy for us to hoist her in, 
even if we had daylight : but there was nothing for it 
but to turn to with a will, and heave the anchor up ; and 
as every one felt the emergency of the case, there was no 
stop at the capstan, and in about thirty-eight minutes I 
had the satisfaction of getting the anchor once more to 
the bows. By this time we were very close indeed to the 
reef ; but, the anchor up, all anxiety on that point was at 
an end, as the sail soon carried the ship clear : but the 
next consideration was how to provide for the safety of the 
pinnace during the night, when a happy thought struck 
me that, though the sea was too heavy outside, yet from 
the pinnace's light draught of water she might land 
on one of the islands, and light a fire which would serve as 
a beacon, and enable us to keep pretty well on the ground 
which we had previously surveyed, and knew to be clear/' 

The next day, after hoisting the pinnace on board, 
they stand out to sea, "very glad to feel the long 
ocean swell once more, after having been six weeks 
out of it." 

Q2 



228 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

To his sister my friend writes, August 4th, 1849 : — 
" Those only, who have known the intense anxiety 
attendant upon a lengthened cruise amongst a mass of 
shoals and reefs, can at all understand the delight with 
which I went to sleep when we were feirly clear ; for the 
nature of the shoals among these islands is such, that 
the lead gives no warning whatever ; and though, day 
by day, the look-out from the mast-head may see the 
shoals, he is of no use at night, and even in the 
daytime I have taken the ship over shoals, with very 
little water on them, that looked Uke deep water from 
the mast-head, simply from the difference in the colour 
of the coral of which the shoals are composed ; and it 
does not add very much to one's happiness to know 
that these isolated patches, many not larger than the 
ship, rise suddenly from deep water, so that, if you hit 
them hard enough to cause a serious leak, you have every 
prospect of going down, with some little chance of 
saving the lives of the crew, but none whatever of saving 
anything for them to eat/' 

I regret that I have not space to make more copious 
extracts, with which these interesting letters and journals 
abound. I must, however, give the following, under date, 
August 16th, 1849 :— 

" One scene I will try to give you a feint idea of, and a 
very faint one it must be ; for I never saw the like before, 
and very much doubt if it will ever be my good fortune 
to see the like again. 



NEW GUINEA COAST. 229 

" After leaving the Louisiade and its surrounding reef, 
which, though it had given the French so much trouble, 
afforded us smooth water and good anchorage, we 
approached the coast of New Guinea. For nearly a fort- 
night, we were prevented by thick, misty, rainy weather, 
heavy gales, and strong currents, from gaining an anchorage ; 
but one evening, having stood close into the land, to my 
very great joy I saw the Bramble and tender coming out 
from the mist with the signal flying, '.Anchorage is good/ 
To make all possible sail, and follow her in, was the work 
of a very few minutes, and, after about three hours of the 
most intense anxiety, I heard the chain-cable running 
out. It was then quite dark ; so the next morning 
saw us all anxiously waiting for the sun to rise, to show 
us the land ; but alas ! the sun rose clearly enough from 
the sea, but over the whole of the land hung one dense 
mass of clouds, through which the space-penetrating 
power of Lord Rosse's telescope would have had 
no effect.^' 

" The deep, that like a cradled child 

In breathing slumber lay, 
More warmly blush'd, more sweetly smiled, 

As rose the kindling day : 
Through Ocean's mirror, dark, and clear, 
Beflected clouds, and skies appear 

In morning's rich array ; 
The land is lost, the waters glow, 
Tia hearen above, around, below ! " 

" Except the island under the shelter of which we had 
anchored, nothing whatever could be seen on the land 
side but masses of heavy clouds above, and volumes 



280 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN AKCHIPELAGO. 

of rolling mist below, while, to make it more tantalizing, to 
seaward all was clear as possible. 

" About an hour before sunset, a change came over the 
scene far more magical, far more sudden than anything 
ever attempted on the stage, when the dark green curtain 
is drawn up to show the opening scene of some new 
pantomime. AU at once the clouds began to lift, the mist 
dispersed, and the coast of New Guinea stood before 
us, clearly defined against the sky, tinged with the rays of 
the setting sim. 

" The mountains seemed piled one above another 
to an enormous height, and were of a deeper blue than 
I have ever seen before even in the Straits of Magellan ; 
they were intersected by tremendous gorges, and ifrom the 
foot of the lowest ranges, a considerable tract of low and 
apparently alluvial soil reached to the beach. 

" To give an idea of this scene by description would be 
utterly impossible, — the intense blue of the mountains 
contrasted strangely with masses of white fleecy clouds 
driven rapidly past them by the gale, — ^the bright gleams of 
the setting sun on the nearer hills, covered with most 
luxuriant vegetation, from which most mysterious Uttle 
jets of very white smoke from time to time burst out, — and 
the two surveying ships quite in the foreground, sur- 
rounded by native canoes, — completed the picture which we 
did not enjoy very long ; for in these latitudes, as you well 
know, there is no twilight, and in less than an hour from 
the time the clouds began to rise, all was dark ; and though 



NEW GUINEA-NATIVES. 231 

we saw many of the peaks again, we never had another 
chance of seeing the whole range so clearly. 

" Mr. Brierly,* the artist who accompanied me from 
Sydney, made the most of the time ; but no painter can 
ever give due eflfect to that sunset. 

" From subsequent observations I find that some of the 
hills must have been forty-eight miles off, and were at least 
as high as the peak of Teneriffe. 

" If from so great a distance the effect could be so 
grand, what must it be amongst those mountains V 

From the 16th August, to the 1st September, they 
experienced continued dirty weather, thick and hazy 
in-shore, blowing hard outside. 

On the 1st September the Bramble stood out and 
communicated that, when she was anchored pretty close 
in-shore, for the purpose of obtaining observations, the 
wind being very Ught, the natives had come off in forty 
canoes containing about 300 men armed with spears, and 
had surrounded the vessel with every appearance of 
hostility ; but those in the nearest canoes seeing the 
sudden muster of the armed crew, and not quite under- 
standing the look of the guns as they were run out, and 
which most of the natives had heard speaks made a 
retrograde movement which was discreetly followed by 
the whole force. 

* ThiB is the same gentleman to whose pencil I am indebted for the illustrationB 
to this work ; and I avail myself of the opportunity to add that no officer could 
have on board his ship a more agreeable, accommodating, or intelligent com- 
panion, nor, in my judgment, an artist of more decided talents for the Yaried 
subjecto likely to present themselves. — H. K. 



282 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN AKCHIPELAGO. 

Having completed the survey of that part of the coast 
to where it had been previously examined by Lieutenant 
Yule, the Rattlesnake returned to Cape York. 

On October 6th, 1849, he writes from Evan's Bay, Cape 
York :— 

" The rehef to my mind on arriving here safely after 
such a cruise must be imagined, not described ; even when 
all the dangers of an unknown sea had been overcome, we 
might have found the wells dry and not a drop of water 
to be procured ; trusting to this our last resource, we had 
carried on till a very few days' supply was left on board ; 
and during the last month we had been drinking the 
water caught by the awnings during the heavy rains on 
the coast of Guinea. 

" What my feelings were on dropping the anchor here in 
safety I can hardly tell you ; mentally, intense gratitude 
prevailed ; bodily, intense fatigue, which I had not at all 
felt before, came on at once, and I must have slept twelve 
hours without turning round or even dreaming. 

"We have had no sickness of any consequence on 
board ; not a single accident to either of the vessels or 
their boats, though the latter have been away in the worst 
of weather ; and the same degree of harmony exists at 
this moment as when we left Madeira. I never knew 
either oflBcers or men work more willingly." 

The expected provision-ship arrived at Cape York the 
day after the Rattlesnake. 

On December 3rd, they sailed from Cape York on 



DEATH OF CAPTAIN OWEN STANLEY, • 2«3 

•their return to Sydney by way of Torres Straits and the 
Louisiade Archipelago, and arrived at Port Jackson, where 
we found them on the 7th February. 

Early on the morning of the 13th March my poor 
friend, Owen Stanley, was found dead in his cabin; his 
end must have been sudden, as he had been called by the 
oflBcer of the watch not long before. His remains were 
interred with all the honors due to his rank, in the burial 
ground of the parish church of St. Leonards on the north 
side of the river, he having expressed a wish that, in case 
of his dying in Australia, this should be his final resting 
place — ^it is a quiet, pretty, and more secluded spot than 
the cemetery at Sydney. 

The joiimals of my lamented friend, from which I have 
quoted, would have proved — ^had he been spared to publish 
them himself — an acquisition to their class of Hteratiu'e ; 
and thus, through the medium of Ubraries and bookclubs, 
he might already have been more poptdarly known, ajs no 
degenerate scion of a gifted stock. But in some cases — 
and those of the highest order — ^the public can scarcely 
appreciate the claims of merit. It is happy for Science 
that she is her own reward, and that her votaries court her 
for herself. By his love of science, and by his zeal in 
the arduous path of scientific duty. Captain Stanley 
was enabled, with but slight physical or constitutional 
powers, to throw into the performance of his laborious 
mission his distinguished father's energy, and patiently, for 
the benefit of the whole family of man, to track, as it 



234 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ABCHIPELAGO. 

were, the steps of Him, *' whose way is in the sea, and his 
path in the great waters, and whose footsteps are not 
known." 

To investigate these, so far as we are allowed to do 
so, is exclusively the privilege of the scientific mind: 
to define them for the guidance of mankind is the most 
sublime and philanthropic application, of which genius is 
susceptible on earth. The nautical surveyor needs no 
monument, beyond the records of precious lives, noble 
vessels, rich freights, saved fi'om peril instrumentally by 
his accuracy, — the commercial &cilities emanating from 
his difficulties, — ^the quiet confidence amid strange and 
treacherous waters, which nations derive from his anxieties. 

In every such monument throughout the commercial 
world the name of Owen Stanley has achieved a place ; 
while the regrets of all who knew him professionally tell 
of his estimation as an officer ; and the sorrow, still fresh 
in many a mourning heart, attests the void that he has left 
in private life. 

" His spirit hath retam'd to Hm 

Who gave its hearenlj spark ; 
Yet think not, Sun, it shall be dim. 

When thou thyself art dark ! 
No ! it shall live again, and shine 
In bliss unknown to beams of thine ; 

By Him rectUled to breath, 
Who captive led captivity, 
Who robb'd the grave of Victory, 

And took the sting from Death.** 



SAIL FOB HOBABT TOWN. 236 



CHAPTER XXIV. 



UA9t DiriOnVB PBOCESD TO HOBABT TOWH — ^HOXS OOMPABISOHS KAITOABOO 

HUSTUia BQQATTBBS* MODI OF IdWM PACK OP BBA0LS8 ^HOBABT TOWH BA0B8 

— TBAHSPOBTATIOH QV18TI0K — BHAX-YIOHT WITH 99tH BIOIMBRT — ^DBPABTITBI 

FBOM HOBABT TOWN ^ABBIVB AT STDNBT ^ROBFOUL ISLARD— DBSCBIPTION 

PHILIP ARD OTHEB ISLANDS OAYBS TIDBS FISH BOIL, OLIXATB, AND 

PBODUOB — POULTBT — BIBDS — BBB8 — PVBUO BUILDIBOS — BID! OYIB THl ISLAND 
— GOYXBNOB'S OOOK— 0B08SIN0 THB BAB — BOAT SWAMPID— SUMMABT PBO- 
0BBDIN08 OF AN BABLT OOVBBNOB — CONCLUSION. 

DimiNG our refit at Sydney, on lifting the rigging, we 
discovered the head of our mizen-mast to be rotten, and 
as there was a mast of the same dimensions in the Anson 
convict ship at Hobart Town, it having been originally 
made for the SotUhampton frigate, I appUed to the Governor 
of Van Diemen's Land for permission to appropriate it for 
the Mceander. 

We sailed from Port Jackson on the 20th March — It 
being the time of the recess, a very agreeable party were 
enabled to accompany us ; among my guests were Captain 
Fitzroy, A.D.C. with his brother George, private secre- 
tary, and master of a pack of fox-hounds ; also Mr. Dea» 



28« A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

Thompson, whom my friend Colonel Mundy so justly 
describes as " the prince of colonial secretaries and of good 
fellows/' and, judging from the directions I received from 
the Governor as to the care of and attention to be shown 
him, he was not less appreciated at head quarters. 

Pleased as we were with the appearance of everything 
about Sydney, we were still more so with Hobart Town. To 
a great superiority in the picturesque it added the advan- 
tage of an English climate. As we entered the town it was 
difficult to imagine ourselves in the antipodes of England : 
English fruits and vegetables were exposed for sale in the 
shops, apple and potato-stalls were kept by old women in 
the streets : the public carriages as well a^i horses re- 
minded one of the good old coaching days in England. 

These convenient means of conveyance induced many 
of our party to make excursions into the country. The 
road from Hobart Town to Laimceston is little inferior 
to that from London to Birmingham. The country we 
passed through, the quickset hedges, farm houses, stacks 
of corn and hay, the inns by the road-side, at which the 
coach changed horses or stopped ten minutes to dine, 
the good roast leg of mutton and potatoes hot and ready, 
the " coining" waiter, with bad brandy and worse cigars, — 
all reminded us of home. 

We remained some days in the country, and I shall not 
soon forget the kind hospitality I experienced. It was 
the winter, and hunting season ; and the Governor, Sir 
William Denison, who is a lover of the sport, kindly 



HUNTING. 287 

mounted me. Our meet one morning was at Oatlands, 
the residence of the master of the hounds, prettily situated 
on the banks of the Macquarrie River ; there was a dejeuner 
for a large party ; and no young ladies, with all the advan- 
tages of English society and English education, could 
have presided at the table with more natural grace than 
did the pretty sisters of our worthy host, assisted by an 
equally pretty friend, none of whom had ever been out 
of the colony. In the field too these young ladies were 
equally conspicuous for their nerve and graceful riding. 

Our game was the kangaroo ; the pack were fox-hounds. 
If awkward fences and dangerous jumping add to the 
excitement of the chase, the sport could not be surpassed 
in merry England, nor could the well-mounted cheery set 
of young fellows who composed the field be outdone in 
deeds of gallant riding by any in the world. The sea- 
captain's performances on the Governor's mare, which had 
always been accustomed to a good place in the run, 
afforded, I flatter myself, amusement to my entertainers 
for some days after. 

« 

There were, besides, in the neighbourhood, a first-rate 
pack of beagles. Just before we sailed from Hobart Town 
I received a letter, which I much prize, from Mr. William 
Allison, one of the young men with whom I had crossed 
the country, and with whom I had established a friendship. 
He was the son of a " squatter, ^^ who had been an officer in 
the navy, and was one of the finest specimens I oversaw of 
an old mariner ; he had served his country throughout the 



238 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

eventful period of the late war. The perusal of the son's 
letter could not fail to give the reader a very favourable 
impression of the style of man one may meet in that 
distant land ; he had the management of 40,000 acres, 
with a flock of some 20,000 sheep, and was deeply inter- 
ested in the welfare of the colony. I refrain from 
publishing it without leave ; on the subject of the 
sport, in which he knew I should be interested, he says, 
"We had the most glorious run on Saturday I ever 
saw, or perhaps ever shall see again, with Nat's* 
beagles : affcer a run of twelve miles, the kangaroo, a 
forester, jumped dead ten yards in front of the hounds ; 
we had no check, and during the last four miles we 
frequently viewed him, there were only Nat, myself, a 
younger brother, and a Mr. Difrose in at the death ; had 
you been with us, a^ we often wished, you would have 
been there too. Mrs. Lord sent you the kangaroo, which 
we hope reached safely." 

The Hobart Town Races came off" during our stay, and 
afforded good sport ; there was a Governor's Cup to be run 
for. On the ground there were more rogues, and a more 
experienced set of thimble-rig gentry than are to be found 
on a well conducted race-course in England, which does not 
afford the same market as formerly to the lower classes of 
sharpers and gamblers ; nor indeed to the idler, unconnected 
with the turf, has it half the amusement of this colonial 
race-course. 

* A younger brother of the writer. 



CONVICT IMPORTATION. 239 

The question of the importation of convicts, which 
is now Ukely to be merged in the all-absorbing gold 
diggings, appeared to interest three distinct parties. 
The most powerful was that of the lower orders, 
inhabiting the capital, whose object it was, by excluding 
the convict, to keep up high wages. In three days 
they earn sufficient, where provisions are so cheap, 
to keep them for the remainder of the week ; this 
gives them ample leisure to attend to politics. This 
party, as in other countries, found advocates among 
respectable senators, and were powei'ful at the seat of 
Grovemment. 

A second party, consisting of the clergy generally 
and a few other respectable individuals, objected to the 
immoral tendency which the introduction of convicted 
felons must have. 

The third party, the real colonists, the cultivators of the 
soil, on whose stabiUty and welfare the colony mainly 
depended, saw nothing but ruin in the proposed sudden 
change ; they were earnest in their protestations, and 
denied the extent of the immoral effect caused bv the 
introduction of felons. Gang-labour may be bad ; but I 
believe, with very few exceptions, the convict labourer 
employed in the country is better behaved than the free 
settler. The owners of land have more means of 
improving, and more command over, a man who has 
something to gain by good conduct and everything to 
lose if he does not behave well, than he can possibly 



240 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

have over the free man, who can come and go just as it 
suits his convenience. 

On the 18th April the 99th regiment and ourselves 
amused the inhabitants of Hobart Town by a sham-fight : 
the soldiers were to occupy some Government ground 
called " The Paddocks," and oppose an invasion. 

As soon as the 99th had taken up their position in a 
wood to the rear, the invading force effected a landing, 
and were driving in the enemy's pickets, when they 
were suddenly out-numbered and obUged to retire on 
their boats, making a gallant stand at the end, to cover 
the re-embarkation of their artillery. Much ammunition 
was expended- So large a concourse of people had never 
before been seen in Hobart Town. 

Before taking our departure, I had the gratification 
of receiving Sir WiUian Denison on board, and giving 
him a few hours' cruise in the Derwent River, — a 
recreation he appeared particularly partial to. Such were 
the attractions of Hobart Town, that we had some difficulty 
in collecting our Sydney friends ; but as I was under a 
promise to Sir Charles Fitzroy to return them safe by a 
certain date, we could no longer delay our departure, and 
we consequently sailed on the 20th April : with no small 
regret we finally parted with them at Sydney on the 26th. 

The Havannahy Captain Erskine, in charge of the 
Austrahan station, had arrived a few hours before us 
from a visit to the Enderby Islands. 

On the 3rd May, we quitted Port Jackson in con- 



NORFOLK ISLAND. 241 

tinuation of our route for Port Nicholson and Auckland ; 
but, the wind heading us oflF, we stood on to Norfolk 
Island, which we made on the evening of the 7th, and 
stood oflF and on for the night. Early the following 
morning the Grovemor, Mr. Price, kindly sent a whale-boat 
oflF, as it was not advisable to attempt landing in our own 
boats, owing to the surf which appears to break on every 
part of the coast. A short pier forms a sort of break- 
water ; and a skilful helmsman, aa he rushes in with the last 
roller, wiU turn the boat so as to shoot into smooth water, 
where a tolerable landing, under the lee of the pier, may 
be eflTected. An unskilful helmsman generally manages to 
have his boat landed on the rocks, where, the moment 
she strikes, there are plenty of convicts ready to rescue the 
passengers, some of them without even a wetting : this 
was my case ; but fatal accidents do occasionally happen. 

The group of islands of which this is the principal, hes 
in 168° V east longitude, and 29° 2' south latitude. It was 
discovered by Captain Cook in 1774, and consists of two 
considerable islets, Norfolk and Philip, distant about six 
miles from each other, with about a dozen others, — Nepean 
and the Bird Islands, — ^which are little more than dry rocks 
distributed about the main islands. 

Norfolk Island is not quite five miles long, with a 
medium breadth of about two and a half ; and its super- 
ficies is about 8960 acres, and greatest height, at two 
points close together, forming the double summit of Moimt 
Pitt, 1050 feet. These numbers are the result of a rough 

TOL. n. R 



242 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

survey, with very defective instruments, and may be 
somewhat below the mark. 

Philip Island is about a mile and a quarter long, with a 
medium breadth, not exceeding three quarters of a mile ; 
its height probably from 800 to 900 feet. It is almost 
everywhere precipitous, its sides being furrowed with deep 
channels or gullies; it is densely wooded, though the 
timber is small, and of little value ; it does not appear 
capable of occupation to economical advantage. As a 
punishment station, however, or as an invalid station, 
where the infirm could be kept apart altogether from 
the able and efiective men, — ^for even in sickness they 
are here frequently ill-conducted — ^it might be occupied 
with considerable benefit to discipline. 

Garden-groimd could be easily procured and made 
available ; but means must be taken to exclude the 
rabbits, with which the island abounds, but which, 
owing to the present state of the brushwood and the 
shelter of the gullies, are enabled to evade the keenest 
sportsman. 

Water has been found at one known spot, and probably 
could be procured elsewhere. 

Government House, which is spacious and comfortable, 
stands on a small hill, which rises somewhat abruptly 
about fifty feet above the adjoining level. 

Nepean Island, about 400 yards from the beach, rises to 
the height of about fifty feet. It is about a quarter of a 
mile or less in length, of a horse-shoe form, open to the 



THE BIED ISLAND& 248 

east ; water hss not been found on it, and vegetation has 
within the last few years disappeared, owing, it is said, to 
the number of rabbits, which, having destroyed everything 
edible, perished themselves. Birds only are now found on 
it— chiefly gannets and mutton birds. 

The Bird Islands distributed along the north shore 
exactly resemble the clifis opposite to them, — they are 
utterly useless, and are tenanted extensively by birds, 
particularly the gannet, boatswain, and sea-swallow, the 
two latter of which are rarely seen on the other side of the 
island. 

The tides run with great rapidity among these Bird 
Islands ; and thus, though the distance be but a few yards, 
it is difficult to swim o£f to them. Both they and the clifis 
opposite to them are extensively hollowed into caves and 
recesses by the action of the water, and in some cases also 
by human agency. The porphyry is easily formed into a 
cave, and almost all the men who abscond form some such 
retreat, where it is sometimes very difficult to find them. 
Some of the mutineers who, in 1827, seized the boats and 
escaped to Philip Island, thus lived thirteen months before 
they were retaken, and many stories are current of the 
extent of cave found under its principal peak. There is, 
however, a cave of considerable extent on the south-west 
side of Norfolk Island, which has been hollowed out by 
the action of the water. The entrance forms a Grothic 
arch ; the columns are regular, and appear as if they had 
been cut by human agency, and not formed by the Great 

B 2 



244 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

Architect of Nature. The roof is lofty, broken and 
irregular ; and at the extreme end of it a large block of 
porphyry stands in the centre, which we might almost 
fancy to be the presiding genius of the place, the base of 
which is covered with a carpet of sea-weed. 

The tides nm so rapidly that with a light wind 
it is difficult for a ship to keep her station ; — and 
there is frequently much delay in clearing her ; 
the anchorage, as I mentioned before, is not considered 
safe. 

The flood-tide sets to the west — the rise of tide about 
six feet, and time of high water at full and change, 7h. 45m. 
The general tides are regular, and commonly speaking 
will carry a ship clear of danger, not into it. The only 
exceptions are the Bumbora rocks at the south-west ex- 
tremity, and a low point almost corresponding to them, 
projecting from the south-west point of Nepean ; on both 
these the tides set almost directly, and as they are respec- 
tively at the east and west extremities of the bay in 
which the settlement is placed, and not more than three 
miles and a half apart, they add much to its other incon- 
veniences. 

Soundings in deep water may be obtained on most 
sides of the island— on these there is tolerably good 
fishing. — Sharks are common, but small, not exceeding five 
feet ; they have never been known to molest a man, but 
when a large fish is hooked, they not unfirequently help 
themselves to half of it, before you can haul it to the 



SOIL AND CLIMATE. 246 

surface. Among the fish taken are two species of cod, 
one black, rising to 200lbs., and one brown, of about 171bs. 
The shoal-fish are — ^king-fish, trevaley, salmon, groper, 
skipjack, and trumpeters ; small guard-fish are firequently 
driven within the reefe by their numerous enemies. The 
king-fish seems to be the master ; wherever he appears 
the others give way. All these fish are palatable though 
dry. They are clean in the autumn and winter, but dry 
in the spring. About October their fry are seen floating 
about in abundance ; and when they are caught at this 
time, the different kinds have almost always the fry of 
some other kinds in then- stomachs, but never their own. 
They all take salt well. An accessible boat-harbour 
might be formed ; and if you could persuade the volunteer 
fishermen not to run away, a valuable fisheiy might be 
established on the island, and might contribute materially 
to its economical resources. 

The soil and climate of Norfolk Island are more adapted 
to the growth of maize than wheat ; the latter is a most 
uncertain crop. Rust and smut are the prevailing and 
&tal diseases ; and when any part becomes affected, the 
fungi speedily spread to the adjoining crops, and their 
destructive properties are too speedily developed. Barley, 
oats, and rye, have been cultivated with tolerable 
success. 

The soil and climate of Norfolk Island are also adapted 
to the cultivation of cotton, perhaps more so than any 
other: the produce of two rods planted by Captain 



246 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN AECHIPELAGO. 

Machonochie on the west side of his garden was immense, 
and of superior textm^e. Tobacco and arrowroot have 
also been grown with considerable adrantage. A partial 
attempt has been made to improve some of the pastures 
by sowing clover, rye, and other grasses ; but, from either 
the bad quality of the seed or the drought, little ger- 
minated. Guinea is the most valuable indigenous grass, 
and grows luxuriantly : it is eagerly sought for by 
horses, homed cattle, and swine, but sheep prefer the 
other kinds, and only feed on the young shoots. Lucerne 
has been introduced and thrives well, but it is said not 
to seed. (For the woods, shrubs, and vegetables, see 
Appendix.) 

Every description of domestic poultry thrives well, 
and fowl is of good quaUty ; the common pigeon is abun- 
dant, and when young, good eating. The white guinea- 
fowl was once abundant but is now extinct ; the grey 
are getting more common. A fine wood-quest is still to 
be found about Mount Pitt, and attempts have been made 
to domesticate it, but without success. There are some 
however in the aviary of the Grovemment House at Hobart 
Town. 

There are three varieties of parrots, — a blue and red 
lowrie (Psittacus Penantis), a green parrot, and a mule. 
A fourth is said to exist on Philip Island of surpassing 
beauty, but has not been caught for the last few years. 
Kingfishers are common, but their plumage is dingy. There 
is a variety of the blackbird ; of the robin, too, with a scarlet 



BAKRACKS> ETC. 247 

breast and white head ; guava birds, white-eyes, fantails, 
&c. all popularly so named. None hare much note, though 
they are not altogther silent. A hive of bees was intro- 
duced by Captain Maconochiein 1840 ; they have thriven 
well, and besides being in most of the officers' gardens are 
now also wild in the bush. The quality of the honey is 
excellent. There are neither snakes, lizards, nor centi- 
pedes on Norfolk Island, though the two latter are found 
on Philip Island. 

The military barracks are capable of containing a 
regiment. The Commissariat store is lofty and roomy. 
The convict barracks are three stories high, they will 
contain about 1100 men. The prisoners sleep in 
hammocks in two tiers, suspended to wooden frames, 
upwards of 115 are contained in some of the wards ; each 
prisoner is allowed one blanket, which, with the hammock, 
forms his whole bedding. 

The thermometer seldom descends below 65 deg. 

The jail is a small quadrangular building, not calculated 
in any way to meet the wants of the settlement ; a new 
one is in progress. 

The convict hospital is small. 

In the prisoners' barradks are a Protestant and a 
Catholic chapel — there are shoemakers' and tailors' shops 
also within the barrack walls. 

The convicts attached to the agricultiu*al establishment 
are employed principally in the cultivation of maize, and 
the labom* is formed almost exclusively with the hoe. 



248 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ABCHIPELAGO. 

Artificers of every description are to be found among the 
prisoners, and all have their allotted work. Their daily 
ration consists of l^lb. maize meal, lib. salt beef, 1 oz. of 
sugar, and ^z. soap. The expense of the settlement 
is about £30,000 per annum. In 1787 the island was 
colonised by free settlers and prisoners from New South 
Wales, under Captain King, R. N. In 1809 an un- 
successftil attempt was made by the free settlers, military, 
and prisoners, to take possession of the island. In the 
following year this sink of iniquity was abandoned, and 
every building demolished. 

On the 4th June, 1825, it was re-occupied as a penal 
settlement, by Captain Turton, six civilians, fifty soldiers, 
and fifty prisoners. 

The Governor kindly took me a ride over the island. 
It is difficult to imagine a more beautiful or lovely spot 
At every hundred yards a fresh scene broke on us. 
Oiu" road to Mount Pitt, upwards of 1000 feet above 
the level of the sea, lay through groves of orange and 
lemon-trees. It required only a suitable population to 
make it a Uttle paradise ; but at present the recurrence 
of one's thoughts to the desperate men who inhabit 
the soil constantly dispels any agreeable illusion. The 
present Governor has, by a conciUatory but firm system, 
greatly alleviated the horrors and suflFering of the 
prisoners, many of whom are thrice-convicted felons. 
During our ride we passed several groups of these 
desperate men, but their hats were immediately dofied. 



CROSSING THE BAR U9 

and they seemed to respect, while they stood in awe of, 
the all-powerful Grovemor. 

At Government House we were hospitably entertained 
at an early dinner, to enable us to cross the bar and get 
on board before sunset. At dinner I could not help 
remarking what a superior artist the Goyemor had in 
the way of a cook ; he was a doubly-convicted murderer, 
and had once been reprieved when the rope was round his 
neck : he boasted of having had a shot, while in the bush 
of Australia, at my much-respected fiiend, Mr. Deas 
Thompson, the Colonial Secretary. 

In going on board we were not so fortunate in crossing 
the bar, — ^the boat, which was too deeply laden, got 
swamped. Owing, however, to arrangements ashore and 
the activity of the convicts, no Uves were lost 

On my asking the man who had rescued me 
from a watery grave, to whom I was indebted for 
the kind assistance, he informed me that his name 
was Emerson, and that he had been transported for 
doing a bit of highway robbery while in the service of 
my father ! 

Our second attempt to get o£f was more successful, 
owing to our having divided oinrselves into two parties, 
and thereby lightening the boat. Our great loss was 
in a couple of hundred young Norfolk Island pme-trees, 
some of which I did hope to bring to this country, but 
they never recovered the salt-water soaking. 

That Governors of Norfolk Island have sometimes found 



250 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ABCHIPELAGO. 

it necessary to take strong measures will appear from the 
following well-known occurrence : — 

In October, 1827, a man named Clynch, who had 
been some time an absentee, attacked Captain Wright, 
the then Goremor, with an iron boar-spear, when on his 
way from Longridge to the settlement. The commandant, 
being an active man, parried the thrust with his stick, 
and reached the settlement with only a slight flesh 
woimd. The military were sent in pursuit of the offender, 
but without success. On the following day Clynch robbed 
a free overseer of his watch, in the presence of his gang, 
not one of whom attempted to prevent him, although 
requested to do so by the overseer. On the 28th, Clynch 
was detected in attempting to break into the hospital, for 
the alleged purpose of murdering an informer who was an 
inmate of that place ; being closely pursued, he was 
captured on the flat opposite the miUtary barracks. A few 
minutes after his apprehension, and after he had been 
handcuffed, a sergeant walked up to him, put a pistol to 
his head, and blew his brains out, in pursuance of an order 
to that efiect issued by the Grovemor immediately after 
the attack on himself, thereby forestalling the more 
ignominious death that awaited him. 

Captain Wright was removed in consequence of this 
outrage. Although such an instance of summary punish- 
ment inflicted by order of a Grovemor is without a parallel, 
still there are many as great villains as Clynch constantly 
to be found among the felons on Norfolk Island. 



RETURN TO ENGLAND. 261 

I have already stretched my '* Indian Archipelago'' 
beyond its legitimate bounds. I will therefore take leave 
of my readers^ and proceed without them on our still 
interesting, although more frequented course. — Passing 
through Cook's Straits, we visited Port Nicholson, and 
subsequently Fort Auckland, as well as the Bay of 
Islands in New Zealand, an interesting account of which 
places has lately been published, by Colonel Mundy. 
After visiting Tonga-Tabou, one of the Friendly 
Islands, — descriptive notices of which are now in the press, 
from the pens of two diflferent authors, — ^we entered 
the Great Pacific Ocean, calling at Tahiti on our way to 
Valparaiso. 

After a twelvemonth passed on that agreeable station, 
we returned to England through the Straits of Magel- 
haens, arriving at Spithead towards the end of July, 
1851, in time to see the Grand Exhibition in the Crystal 
Palace. 

I have never met with a full description of a very 
curious insect, or plant, — "jTA^ Bulrush Caterpillar;^ 
and as anything belonging to natural history is interesting 
to all classes, I will here subjoin a few remarks on that 
curiosity, which I obtained, with several specimens, 
from the Rev. R. Taylor, of Warinote, a dose and 
enthusiastic observer of all that is to be found rare 
and curious in nature, in the fields and bush of New 
Zealand. 

'' This singular plant, of which the native name is 



262 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

Aweto Aolete, may be classed among the most remark- 
able productions of the vegetable kingdom. There are 
birds which dispossess others of their nests, and marine 
animals which take up their abode in deserted shells ; but 
this plant surpasses all in killing and taking possession ; 
making the body of an insect — ^and that too very probably 
a Uving one — ^the foundation from which it rears its stem^ 
and the source from which it derives its support It 
certainly forms one of the most surprising links between 
the animal and vegetable kingdoms yet noticed ; and, as 
such, merits as circumstantial a description as our present 
imperfect acquaintance with it will allow. 

^'The Aweto is only found at the root of one particular 
tree — ^the Nata — ^the female Pohdvikana. The root of 
the plant, which in every instance exactly fills the body of 
the caterpillar, in the finest specimens attains a length 
of three inches and a half; and the stem, which germinates 
from this metamorphosed body of the caterpillar, is from 
six to ten inches high ; its apex, when in a state of 
fructification, resembles the club-headed bulrush in min- 
iature, and, when examined with a powerful glass, presents 
the appearance of an onion. There are no leaves : a 
solitary stem comprises the entire plant ; — ^but if any 
accident break it off, a second stem rises from the same 
spot The body is not only always found buried, but the 
greater portion of the stalk as well, the seed-vessel alone 
being above ground : when the plant has attained its 
maturity, it soon dies away. These curious plants are 



THE BULRUSH CATERPILLAR. 258 

far from imcommon : I have examined at least a 
hmidred. The natives eat them when fresh, and Ukewise 
use them — ^when bm*nt — as colouring matter for their 
tattooing, rubbing the powder into their wounds, in which 
state it has a strong animal smelL When newly dug up, 
the substance of the caterpillar is soft ; and, when divided 
longitudinally, the intestinal canal is distinctly visible. Most 
specimens possess the legs entire, with the living part of 
the head, the mandibles and claws. The vegetating 
process invariably proceeds from the nape of the neck ; 
from which it may be inferred that the insect, in crawling 
to the place where it inhumes itself prior to its metamor- 
phosis, whilst burrowing in the light vegetable soil, gets 
some of the minute seeds of this fringus between the 
scales of its neck, from which, in its sickening state, it is 
unable to free itself; and which consequently — ^being 
nourished by the warmth of the insect's body, then lying 
in a motionless state — ^vegetate, and not only impede the 
progress of change m the chrysalis, but likewise occasion 
the death of the insect. That the vegetating process 
commences during the lifetime of the insect appears 
certain, from the &ct that the caterpillar, when converted 
into a plant, always preseiTes its perfect form. In 
no one instance has decomposition appeared to commence, 
or the skin to have contracted or expanded beyond its 
natural size. 

^' A plant of a similar kind has been discovered growing 
in abundance on the banks of the Murrumbidgee, New 



254 A VISIT TO THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

South Wales, in a rich black aJluvial soil. Both are 
cryptogamous plants. 

"It is a curious instance of a retrograde step in nature, 
when the insect, instead of rising to the higher order of 
the butterfly, and soaring to the skies, sinks into a plant, 
and remains attached to the soil in which it buried 
itself." 



APRENDIX. 265 



APPENDIX, 



I. 

LETTERS AND DOCUMENTS READ OR REFERRED TO BY MR HXJBiE 
IN PARLIAMENT— ADDRESS FROM THE MERCHANTS OF SINCA- 
PORE TO SIR JAMES BROOKE— LETTER FROM MR. VIGORS TO 
SIR JAMES BROOKK 

1. 

Me. Hume '^ having understood that one of the officers of the 
East India Gompan/s service had commanded on the coast of 
Borneo, he applied to that gentleman for information, and receiv^ 
from him the following reply : — 

"' i>«j: 8, 1850. 

*^ ' I have just received your note, and I am sorry that I am not in 
town to call upon Mr. Hnme. When I first heard of Sir James 
Brooke's expedition, I was led to suppose that the Dyaks in 
question were noted and desperate pirates, but I subsequently 
learnt that they were merely enemies of the Sarawak tribe, and had 
been so for many generations, in isnd, horn, time immemorial. 
During the sixteen months that I was stationed on the coast of 
Borneo I never heard of or saw a pirate, which greatly disappointed 
me, as I was led to suppose that the coast abounded with them. 
From information that I received from one of the principal merchants 



2W APPENDIX. 

of Sincapore, I learnt that small coastmg vessels under the Enghsh 
flag had been in the habit of trading to and from Bruni for the 
last twenty-five years, and that they had never been molested ; so I 
have come to the conclusion that the enemies of the Sarawak tribe 
are not pirates or enemies of this great and happy land, and I 
cannot help ticlling you that from all I have heard 1 am thankful 
that the ship I commanded was not engaged in the late affair/ '' 

2. 

''Captain Daniell, writing from Plymouth, December 9, 1850, 
said, — 

** ' I beg to acknowledge the receipt of your letter of the 6ih 
instant, and in reply I have the pleasure to acquaint you that I was 
in command of the Honourable Company's steam-frigate Semiramis, 
stationed on the coast of Borneo, from March, 1849, to May, 1850, 
during which time 1 never fell in with a pirate. As regards 
Sir James Brooke's expedition against the Dyaks in question, I beg 
to state that I never heard of their having molested an English or 
foreign vessel/ " 

3. 

'' He (Mr. Hume) had also a letter from an of&cer on board a 
steam-frigate in the following terms : — 

•** October 2B, IS50, 

" ' I opine that no person has any business to voluntarily enter a 
witness-box, unless he has some positive evidence to give on the 
occasion in question. Now, the question is, what have I to say 
regarding the massacre of Malay pirates (so called) in 1849, — 
simply that I was stationed at Labuan for the protection of the 

island from — to in the — ; that I made three subsequent 

trips, and remained a few days each time ; and that I paid a flying 



APPENDIX. 267 

visit to Sarawak in the same vessel. In all these trips I never fell 
in with any pirates, iior did anything I heard there lead me to infer 
that the Malays in that neighbourhood were given to piracy, in the 
sense generally taken of that term by Englishmen. What I inferred 
was, that the different tribes were given to war upon each other, as 
their more civilised brethren in other parts of the world are. No 
person that had seen their prahns could have any great dread of 
them as sea pirates ; indeed, so little are they dreaded, that vesseb 
so small as forty-five tons, with crews of eight or ten men, and they 
Malays, with a single European to navigate, run constantly between 
Sincapore and Borneo Proper without any dread of them. Being 
obliged to leave Labuan from ill-health, and no other opportunity 
offering at the time, I went to Sincapore from that place in a 
schooner of forty-five tons, with a crew of four Malays, one maalam 
or navigator, and an Indian Lascar or tindal, accompanied by 
Lieutenant Sideout, of the 21st Madras Native Infantry, and our 
servants, our only arms a double-barrelled fowUng-piece, and that in 
its case in the hold. It is true this latter was in what is called the 
bad season, when their prahus do not venture out, but the trading 
vesseb before alluded to run constantly throughout the year.^ ^^ 



4. 

** He (Mr. Hume) had letters from Captain Young and Captain 
Daniell, of the Indian navy. The former of&cer said, under date 
of Bombay, January 17, 1851, — 

" * You wish me to give an opinion on the affair with the Dyaks 
on the night of the 31st of July, 1849, apparently under the 
impression that I was present on that occasion. I had, however, 
returned to India some six months previously. I was on the coast 
of Borneo in command of the Honourable Compan/s steam-frigate 

VOLDL 8 



258 APPENDIX. 

Auckland from March to December^ 1848, and during that time I 
once visited Sarawak. I do not fed myself justified in giving an 
opinion on the affidr in question^ being doubtful how far that would 
be consistent with my duty as a Government servant. I am, 
however, perfectly willing, if called on officially, to give any 
information in my power.^ 



i >» 



5. 

'^ He (Mr. Hume) would now read to the House a communication 
he had received firom a gentleman who had been for twenty-eight 
years a resident at Sincapore, and who knew that he was anxious to 
get information on this subject. His correspondent said, — 

" ' Having read your suggestions from the Daily New of 22nd 
March respecting Borneo, and the supposed piratical expedition 
of July, 1849, under the command of Captain Farquhar, I have 
been induced to offer the following remarks on the Malays from 
Pontiana to Maludu Bay. I lived in Sincapore seven years, and at 
Labuan two and a half years. I was the first adventurer to that 
island after it was taken possession of by the British Government ; 
and I worked the coal mine under contract for the Admiralty from 
April 1847, to July, 1849, when the Eastern Archipelago Company 
took possession of the said mine. During the first fifteen months 
of that period I was the only inhabitant except the Malays on the 
island, with not even the corporal's guard to protect me. While 
working the coal mine I often had occasion to leave my wife and 
children at Victoria Bay, about ten miles distant, for fourteen and 
twenty days together, when my presence was required at the mine, 
and on one occasion sixty days ; showing that if, at that early period, 
the Malays had wished to commit any acts of dishonesty, they could 
have done so with impunity on my stores during my absence from 
home; yet we never experienced other than the greatest respect 



APPENDIX. 259 

from the Malays. I have no hesitation in saying I would as soon 
venture ^n a trading voyage on the coast of Borneo as that of 
England^ or any other coast. While speaking of Malays I must 
not omit to mention the case of a young man named Bums^ who 
left Labuan in a native prahu to visit the Bintulu Bivct in search 
of antimony ore, with none but Malays accompanying him. He 
stayed there some three or four months^ and was supplied with 
every necessary by the Malays. The Bintulu Biver is about 
half-way from Sarawak to Labuan. When, however. Governor 
Brooke was informed of Mr. Bums being at the Bintulu Eiver, he 
despatched the Honourable Gompany^s steamer Phlegethon to fetch 
him away and land him at Labuan, which was done. Mr. Burns 
lived there with me, and spoke in the highest terms of the Malays 
during his stay among them at the Bintulu Biver. There can be 
only one opinion about the late massacre of the Malays formed by 
anybody acquainted with Sir James Brooke or Sarawak — ^that it was 
to murder them into subjection of the Sarawak Government. That 
Sir James Brooke is very much opposed to any European adven- 
turers being on the coast of Borneo has been shown in the case of 
Bums and others. Neither are Europeans allowed to visit or reside 
at Sarawak. This expedition was long talked of at Labuan ; but I 
never heard it said to be undertaken on account of piracies ; the 
alleged reason being that some Malays had made an attack on 
Sarawak and taken some heads, which is a common mode of warfare 
among the Malays. I never heard it was for acts of piracy, neither 
that any parties had suffered as such; neither do I, or any other 
parties having a practical knowledge of the proceedings, believe one 
iota of it/ '' 

" That letter he received from Mr. William Henry Miles.^' 



82 



260 APPENDIX 



6. 

^* He (Mr. Home) would also b^ the attention of the House to 
the fcdlowing passage from a document signed in 1851, by fifty-three 
merchants of Sincapore : — 

" * We beg to testify our cordial approval of your valuable and 
persevering exertions as a member of the Imperial L^islature, to 
call the attention of Parliament, and of the British public, to the 
measures which have been pursued against the communities of the 
Serebas and Sakarran Dyaks, inhabiting territories on the coast of 
Borneo adjacent to Sarawak, and to discriminate between the usages 
and situation of these tribes and the piracies of the formidable 
marauders of the Archipelago, who have so long been known under 
the names of Hlanuns or Lanuns, Soloos, and Balaninis. It is a fact 
perfectly notorious in this settlement, that until within these few years 
the alleged piracies of the Dyaks had never been heard of, and that 
the first circumstance which in any particular manner drew pubhc 
attention in the Straits to the existence of the Serebas and Sakarrans, 
as hordes of pirates, was the invasion of their countries by Captain the 
Hon. H. Keppcl, in Her Majest/s ship Dido — a measure which was 
at the time conmiented on by many here as unjustifiable. There is not 
one among us who ever heard the captain of a merchant vessel, or the 
nakoda of a trading prahu, mention their having seen a Dyak pirate; 
and the circumstance of either the one or the other of them having 
fallen in with or been attacked by prahus which were propelled by 
paddles, and had neither masts nor sails, would have been a novelty 
which could not have failed to attract attention, to say nothing of 
the want of fireanns ; and you will observe that, according to the 
deposition (printed in the Parliamentary papers regarding Borneo 
piracy) of Siup, a Sadong Malay, a prisoner taken from the Serebas 
on the 31st of July, 1849, 'there were not more than four small 



APPENDIX. 261 

brasd guns ^ in the whole fleets although it could not have numbered 
less than 3000 or 3500 men; while it is a notorious feet that the 
same number of guns often forms the armament of a single Malay, 
Bngis, or other trading prahu of the Archipelago. It is, of course, 
morally impossible for us to aver that the Serebas and Sakarran 
Dyaks never have committed what we understand to be piracy, but 
the current testimony of every account which we are aware of being 
before the public regarding the Dyak races must be wholly rejected, 
if every case of an attack by the Serebas and Sakarrans against a 
neighbouring territory, whether inhabited by Malays or Dyaks, is to 
be considered an act of piracy. Such, however, appears to have 
been the principle acted on in regard to them from first to last, as 
the history of every invasion, and every attack of which they have 
been the object, will abundantly prove. It appears to us that the 
most that can be said for those who advocate their slaughter as 
pirates is, that the actual character of these tribes is matter of doubt. 
In the face of the tremendous carnage of the 3lst of July, we will 
not here undertake to say that they were not pirates ; but we con- 
fidently affirm our opinion that the evidence of their being pirates 
is the very opposite of being satisfactory. We conclude these 
observations with the expression of an earnest hope that Parliament 
will see fit to accede to your motion for inquiry, without which 
there can be no issue of this question satisfactory to the public 
mind.' '' 

7. 

'^ He (Mr. Hume) had in his possession a letter written by the 
Hon. Captam Hastings, to whom he had addressed some inquiries, 
dated February 14>, 1851, in which that gallant officer said : — 

" * I have the honour to acknowledge the receipt of your letter 
of the 13th inst., transmitting the enclosed letter for my perusal. 



262 APPENDIX. 

and acquainting me that it is your intention to bring before the 
House of Commons the conduct of Sir James Brooke on the Slat 
of July^ 1849^ and^ as my conduct has been reflected upon in 
several public letters and docimients, you trust that I will not object 
to state the circumstances that induced me to refuse compliance 
with Sir James Brooke's request on the occasion referred to in the 
enclosed. In reply^ I have the honour to state that the reasons 
which induced me to refuse compliance on the occasion in question 
having been brought at the time under the notice of my supoiors, 
and by them approved of, I am precluded from offering you auy 
statement of the matter/ " 

8. 

ADDRESS FROM THE MERCHANTS OF SINGAPORE TO 

SIR JAMES BROOKK 
'< Sir, "November 3, 1849. 

*^ We, the undersigned residents in Sincapcure, have observed 
with deep regret the attacks recently made on you, through a 
certain portion of ihe public press here and in England^ — ^not 
merely against yourself personally, but against your public measures 
for the suppression of piracy; and as it is evident that these 
have originated in Sincapore, and, from absence of contradiction, 
have gained partial currency in England, we feel it due to ourselves, 
as connected with this settlement, thus publicly to disclaim ail 
participation in such statements, which, as well as the spirit of 
personal hostility which they indicate, we unequivocally condemn. 

" We beg to express our opinion of the inevitable necessity which 
exists for the suppression of piracy on the coast of Borneo, and our 
approval of the measures which you have adopted to effect this. It 
is our conviction that it is the bounden duty of our Gov^nment, on 
principle, as well as policy, — ^by considerations of humanity, as well 



APPENDIX. 263 

as by the obligations imposed on us by the Treaty of 1824 with the 
Netherlands, — to extirpate piracy in the Archipelago wherevCT it is 
found; and thereby secure to the peacefol and industrious pro- 
tection against the ruthless attacks of these savage hordes, whose 
formidable expeditions it has been proved beyond question are not 
those merely of tribes against tribes, but are the systematic com- 
binations of organised and professed pirates, seeking only the 
destruction of life and property, from mere thirst of blood and 
rapine. We may regret the necessity which, in the performance of 
this duty, is imposed on you of exacting severe punishment, but we 
are satisfied it is inevitable; and that while the duty must be 
fulfilled, at whatever cost or sacrifice of life, your well-earned 
reputation for humanity and mildness of rule offers the best guarantee 
that in all your proceedings justice will be tempered by mercy, — a 
course of policy which we firmly believe has never been, and never 
will be departed from by you. We beg to offer our hearty con- 
gratulations to you on the great success which has hitherto followed 
your vigorous measures ; and we trust that, in carrying out your 
enlightened views, you will not permit yourself to be influenced by 
hostile comments, founded on misapprehension, — ^from whatever 
quarter they may emanate. Our experience, acquired during a 
residence of many years in the Archipelago, forces on us the 
conviction that neither commerce nor civilisation can be extended 
while piracy in its present formidable extent exists. 

'' Entertaining these sentiments, it was with much satisfsiction we 
hailed your return to Borneo, invested with political functions; one 
of the first fruits of which has been an advantageous Commercial 
Treaty with Soloo ; and we look forward with confidence to your 
future career being characterised by the same determination to 
uphold and extend British influence in the Archipelago by friendly 
intercourse with peaceful native states, not less than by resistance, 



264 



APPENDIX. 



where oocasioB calls for it^ against eiu^oachments on the national 

rights of Great Britain by other powers. 

" We have/' &c. (Signed by twenty-two persons, indnding the 

representatives of aU the mercantile firms — with the exception of 
three— established in Sincapore; it was not extended to the 

respectable class of natives.) 

The following names will speak for themselves, with those who 

are acquainted with that settlement : — 



JNO. PURVia 
ED. BOUSTEAD. 
C. CANIN. 
G. W. G. NICOL. 
JOAQUI DALMEIDA. 
DALMEIDA, Jukb. 
AUGUST BEHN. 
WBl SCOTT. 
WILLIAM KER. 
J. ARMSTRONG. 
H. LITTLE 



THO. H. CAMPBELL, 

ROBERT BAIN. 

M. P. DAVIDSON. 

CH. H. HARRISON. 

A.DGEM. 

JOYE DALMEIDA. 

E. LOGAN. 

W. R GEORGE 

JNO. HARVEY. 

C. MOSES. 

WALLER SCOUDUNCA. 



9. 

Much importance having been attached by Mr. Home to 
a description of Captain Farqahar's action from the pen of 
Mr. Vigors^ published in the lUustrcUed London News, and to that 
gentleman^s supposed opinion thereon^ I here subjoin a letter &om 
Mr. Vigors to Sir James Brooke, with which it did not seem 
advisable to cumber the text. It completes the failure of 
Mr. Hume's own authorities. 



" FWLTB, WSBTTBRK AUSTRALU, 

" My DEAR Snt James, jme lort, issi. 

''I gather from your letter that my communication cm 
the subject of the expedition against the pirates, which appeared in 
the lUusircUed London News of the 10th November, 1849, has be^ 



APPENDIX. 266 

tortured so as to represent me either as expressing or entertaining a 
doubt^ whether the people who were attacked by the force nnder 
Captain Earqnhar's command were reallj pirates. I am altogether 
at a loss to conceive how any one could make such an attempt; 
surely my language on that point is dear and explicit enough to 
satisfy any unprejudiced person : but^ however that may have been^ 
I now state in the most unhesitating manner that I never enter- 
tainedj nor wished others from my letter to infer^ a doubt upon the 
subject. I always was^ and still am, quite satisfied they were 
pirates : indeed, I was present when one of those who had escaped 
from the action, but who was subsequently taken prisoner, was 
examined by Mr. Wallage, the commander of the Nemesis^ through 
an interpreter; and he, after having been well fed, and assured of 
his safety, stated that the baUa, or fleet, which had been destroyed, 
had started for piratical purposes; he also confessed that they 
had, while on the expeditions, attacked the village of Maton and 
taken a trading prahu, as I stated in my published account of the 
affair. He also stated that he lived by piracy, attending his chiefs 
on grand ballas, and filling up the intervals of time by a little 
private piracy on his own account. 

** No man can entertain a greater horror of unnecessary bloodshed 
than I do ; and yet I do not for one moment hesitate to express my 
most unqualified approbation of all that was done in that expedition; 
the lesson was a severe one, but I am folly satisfied that it was 
necessary. I confess my inexperience, but yet I have acquired 
some knowledge of what was the state of the northern coast of 
Borneo, before Sarawak was so fortunate as to possess its present 
ruler; and I cannot adequately express my admiration at the great and 
salutary change which has been wrought in the habits and manners of 
all the inhabitants of that coast, over whom your rule and influence 
have extended, which amelioration is to be attributed solely to the 



260 APPENDED. 

judicious and admirable system pursued by you. In concluaioii^ Sir, 
I trust I may be permitted to offer my bumble tribute of respect and 
esteem for, and admiration of, yourself personally, and also of your 
most praiseworthy and pre-eminently successful exertions in the 
cause of civilisation; and to express a sincere hope that your 
valuable life, on the preservation of which the advancement of 
civilisation in Borneo mainly depends, may be long spared; and 
that future generations of Dyaks, enjoying all the blessings of 
Christianity, civilisation, and good government, through your 
instrumentality, may bear perpetual testimony to the deep debt 
of gratitude which Borneo owes to you. — I am. 



'' My dear Sir James, 

With the deepest respect. 

Yours very faithfully, 

(Signed) '^B. UBBAN VIGORS. 

To Rajah Sir Jambs Brooks, &c &c. ftc.** 



(( 



« 



ft 



n. 

LEGAL PROOFS OF THE PIRATICAL CHARACTER OF THE 

SEREBAS, ETC. 

Being Extractsfrom DepotUiont taken wider a CommMonfrom the Court of 

JudiccUtiref Sincapore, in September^ 1849. 

Deposition No. 1. 

^'Siup, a Sadong Malay, residing lately at Serebas, maketh oath 
and saith, that he was out with the pirate-fleet which was attacked 
by the force under C!ommander Earquha^ and that there were thirty 



APPENDIX. 267 

men in the same prahu with himself, which prahu was run down by 
a steamer ; — deponent escaped into the jnngle and was made prisoner 
the next day. 

''The fleet consisted of one hundred and fi% prahus; the Data 
Patingi of Serebas was the head of the balla or fleet. The Datu 
Bandar, Steer Wangsa, Panglima Bajah, Abong Dundang, and 
ahnost all the principal Malays of Serebas were also out in the fleet. 
Deponent further saith, that thirty of the prahus were from Bembas, 
twenty-five from Paku, and the rest from Padi and Liar (all these 
places are in the Serebas Saver) ; many of the Sakarran people were 
in the prahus mixed with the Serebas people. The Orang Kaya 
Pamancha and most of the other Dyak cfaiefB, and nearly all the 
grown*up persons, were likewise in the fleet. As to the number of 
men out on this excursion, deponent cannot exactly state, but he saith 
that very few prahus indeed had less than thirty men — ^many carried 
forty and fifty men, and some had a crew of seventy men. Depo- 
nent further saith, that there were not more than four small brass 
guns in the fleet, but that each prahu carried a few muskets and 
quantities of spears, swords, and shields. 

''Deponent further saith, that this fleet on leaving the Serebas Biver 
proceeded to the entrance of the Niabur Siver and remained there 
one night : — from the Niabur the fleet proceeded to the entrance of 
the Palo where it stopped the second night. They were within sight 
of the houses of Palo but did not attack the place. From the Palo 
the fleet proceeded to the bay of Lassa, and on its way there cap- 
tured and plundered a trading prahu laden with sago — deponent 
saw the capture made himself. From the bay of Lassa the fleet 
proceeded to the attack of the town of Mato, and near that town 
the fleet captured two other trading prahus, one was laden with sago, 
the other nearly empty. Deponent did not see these prahus burnt, 
but heard they were burnt after they had been plundered. The 



268 APPENDLX. 

fleet attacked Mato^ but were repulsed with the loss of ten men. 
In the attack on Mato about half the force landed below the defences 
thrown across the river^ and the other half engaged from their 
prahus. Deponent remained in his prahu ; — ^the party which landed 
killed one man and captured two women and two children who were 
with him. Deponent saw these persons himself subsequently to 
their capture. 

''The deponent further saith^ that within the last eight months, 
three large fleets have sailed from Serebas on piratical cruises. The 
Datu Patingi^ the Datu Bander^ and the Orang Kaya Pamancha 
attacked Sadong during the last rice harvest^ and killed many people. 
The deponent was not present himself, but has seen and conversed 
with many persons who were— the fact is notorious. Sadong was 
attacked a second time with a fleet not so numerous^ and likewise 
Palo near Sambas. 

''The first fleet which attacked Sadong consisted of one hundred 
and forty prahus^ and the second v^ large fleet was the one des- 
troyed when the deponent was made prisoner. 

"Besides these fleets^ Abang Mansour with ten prahus attacked and 
took Simunjangy a branch of the Sadong Siver^ and one prahu 
attacked the village of Sabangan. 

"Deponent has never been but this once on a piratical cruise^ and 
had he not gone he would liave been killed by the chiefs of Serebas. 

"Deponent when at Serebas resided at Paku.'^ 



Deposition No. 2. 

"BuRUT^ a Bomean, maketh oath and saith^ that his residence is 
at Brun^ that he was at Mato when that place was attacked by the 
Serebas pirates about two months ago. ' Deponent was one of the 



APPENDIX 26P 

crew of a large trading prahu^ about sixty-five feet long and seventeen 
feet beam^ built at Siriki belonging to Nakoda Masallah^ and had 
just arrived from Sincapore^ the cargo was piece goods; on her ar- 
rival at Mato the greater part of her cargo was landed. 

''The prahu was anchored outside the defences across the river^ 
there was another large prahu there^ also laden with sago and bound 
for Sincapore. 

''The Serebas pirates captured, plundered, and burnt both these 
prahus; the crews escaped on shore. The fleet then attacked Mato 
and were beaten oflf — there wctc upwards of one hundred prahus. 
If it had not been for the booms secured across the river below the 
town, the place must have been taken ; these defences were made to 
protect the town against the people of Serebas and Sakarran; — the 
deponent is certain that the fleet was either from Serebas or 
Sakarran.'' 



Depobition No. 8. 



" Abano Bit, formerly a Serebas pirate, now a resident at Sarawak, 
maketh oath and saith, that it was the ordinary custom of the Serebas 
and Sakarran people to go out on piratical expeditions, sometimes 
from the otae place, sometimes from the other, and the party going 
out were in the habit of sending an invitation to the other tribe. 
The object of these expeditions was to take plunder and to obtain 
heads. When at sea, they made no difference amongst those they 
attacked — attacking all whom they could overcome. 

"Deponent farther saith, that he hath been out very often on pirat- 
ical expeditions — at least thirty times, that he has often attacked and 
plundered trading prahus when on those excursions. He deposeth 
to having been present at an attack on Palo near Sambas; — 
the inhabitants were Chinese; the fleet killed many Chinese and 



270 APPENDIX. 

Malay Fishermen at the entrance of the Sambas Biver : he was also 
present at the attack upon Sinkawan when upwards of one hundred 
Chinese men were killed, — at the capture of Sungie Takong where 
fifty Chinese were killed, — at the capture of Sungie Biah where one 
hundred and fifty Chinese were killed, — at Duri one hundred heads 
were obtained; many other places were also attacked by the Serebas 
fleets in which deponent was out. The Malays plundered the places 
captured, and the Dyaks got the heads. All these places were in the 
Sambas and Pontianak countries; they were not attacked from 
motives of revenge or in retaliation for injuries received, but for the 
sake of plunder and heads. Deponent declareth that the people of 
Serebas do not trade, but when in want of money or slaves go 
pirating. Deponent hath taken many slaves and plundered with the 
rest; of those whom he made slaves some are dead and some 
have been sold ; he left Serebas six or seven years ago, but before 
that lived there from his youth upwards, and he is now an old man. 
^^Deponent saith that he was present at the destruction of the fleet, 
at the mouth of the Serebas Biver, by the force under the command 
of Capt. Farquhar, and that he is certain they were a Serebas fleet/' 



Dbfosition No. 4. 

^'Abang Butong midceth oath and saith, that he has frequently 
been pirating from Serebas, that on those occasions his object was 
plunder ; the Dyaks took heads. They never make any distinction 
of nation. They had no friends when at sea, and captured all they 
could conquer. This deponent further saith, that he has been present 
at the capture of many trading prahus — some were Brun^ vessels, 
some Sambas, and some from the islands, and that he has been 
present at the attack of many Chinese and other places ; — imd this 



APPENDIX 271 

deponent farther saith that he was present at the mouth of the 
Serebas Biver when the piratical fleet was destroyed by the force 
under Commander Earquhar. That fleet was from Serebas/' 



DEPOBinoN No. 5. 

^'Abano Hassan, a Sadong Malay, maketh oath and saith, that 
about ten years ago he resided at Sakarran ; daring the time he 
resided there, the people of Sakarran often went out pirating to 
different parts of the coast ; had seen the prahus return bringing 
back plunder, prisoners, and heads of upwards of one hundred 
Chinese, and others taken by them about Sambas ; had also been out 
with them himself with one hundred and thirty prahus and attacked 
Pons, a town in the Pontianak territory; took that place, plundered 
and burnt it. On another occasion attacked the town of Sassang 
with one hundred and twenty prahus and took it, killed twenty-five 
of the inhabitants, and captured thirty women and children. Depo- 
nent asserts that at that time several other Malays under Seriff Saib 
residing at Sadong also joined the fleet which attacked Sausang. 
SerifT Saib compelled them to go. It was not in retaliation for 
injury done by the parties they attacked that they made these ex- 
cursions, but because of their love for plunder and heads ; at sea 
they make no distinction whatever. The Sadong people although 
on terms of friendship with them, if they met at sea they killed. 
Deponent's father, a Sadong man, was killed by them at the mouth 
of the Sadong Biver. 

"Deponent on one occasion was on the coast with Sheriff Saib, when 
he was attacked by two Sakarran prahus — they (the Sakarran people) 
knew Sheriff Saib and the prahu he was in, which being well armed 
beat them off. Sheriff Saib was their great friend and abettor. 



272 APPENDIX. 

'^Deponent then boarded Sakarran piahus, and asked why they 
attacked their friends — ^they replied 'at home we make a distinction 
between friends and enemies^ but at sea everybody we kill and 
plunder/ " 



Dxposmoif No. 6. 



'^SujONG a Malay, formerly of Sakarran, at present residing in 
Sarawak, maketh oath and saith, that he lived for twenty-five years 
at Sakarran, and that he frequently went out on piratical excursions 
with the people of that place ; that on one occasion they attacked 
Sungei Furun and took that place and plundered it; — that they 
killed fifteen Chinese and captured three on another occasion; they 
destroyed the town at Sungei Pinyu and killed three Malays there; 
they then attacked Sungei Dun but were beaten off, they only 
having eight prahus. On another occasion, with eight prahus he 
attacked Sungei Eiah, and captured that place; the inhabitants fled, 
the town was plundered. On another occasion he attacked the tribe 
of Sow Dyaks with ninety prahus and defeated them; they killed 
about 200 men, and captured nearly 200 women and children : that 
village they also plundered and destroyed. 

" Deponent positively asserts that these people of both Serebas and 
Sakarran do not make these attacks on account of injury done 
previously by the parties, — ^they kill, plunder, and destroy any 
persons whatever they may meet at sea,'' 



DEPOfiiTioir Ko. 7. 



'^ SiTAL, residing at Sarawak, maketh oath and saith, that about 
nine years ago, when on a voyage from Sarawak to Pontiana in a 
trading prahu, he was attacked by three Serebas prahus containing 



APPENDIX. 273 

about forty men each; they captured his boat and sunk her, having 
first of all plundered everything that was in her. The deponent 
further saith^ that of the crew of seven men all were killed excepting 
himself; he (the deponent) was wounded and taken prisoner to 
Serebas. After bring kept there about ten days, he was sold as a 
slave to a Malay residing at Siriki, and afterwards ransomed by his 
relatives at Sarawak. 

'* When attacked by the Serebas pirates, the deponent's prahu was 
at sea under sail near Tanjong Datu. The Serebas prahus were 
armed with muskets, spears, and swords, all of which they made use 
of during the attack/' 



Deposition No. 8. 

" AssiNO, Chinaman, now residing in Sarawak, maketh oath and 
saith, that a few years since he was fishing near the mouth of the 
Sambas Biver, in company with another boat, when he was attacked 
by upwards of thirty Serebas prahus and escaped himself with 
difficulty, the other boat being taken and three of the crew in her 
murdered; he had a small house on shore^ which they plundered 
and burnt. 

'' They have very frequently been at the mouth of the Sambas Biver, 
and on this particular occasion passed along the coast and took the 
Chinese town of Sankawan. He positively deposeth these prahus to 
have been from Serebas, he being well acquainted with their appear- 
ance, and that of the people in them, there being no other kind of 
boats of like appearance cruising along the coast/' 



DEPOSITIOIf No. 9. 

'^ Yakub, a Bomean, now residing at Sarawak, maketh oath and 
saith that he is a fisherman, and was living at the Maratabas entrance 
VOL. n. '^ 



274 APPENDIX. 

of the Sarawak Biver when that place was attacked by the Serebas or 
Sakarran Dyaks about a month and a half ago. They first attacked 
three small trading prahos anchored off the village, and captured 
them; one had a Kling on board who was going to Kaluka; four of 
the crew were killed, including the Kling; one escaped, by name 
Sahah. The Dyaks then landed and attacked the village. The 
deponent ran up into his house, and in going up the ladder was 
wounded behind the knee by one of the Dyaks with a spear: 
deponent defended himself in the house, and kept firing at the 
Dyaks with a musket. The Dyaks burnt two houses, killed alto- 
gether six men, wounded four, and captured one woman; they thai 
got into their boats and pulled away in the direction of Sakarran. 
The deponent is certain they were either Sakarran or Serebas Dyaks, 
as he is well acquainted with their appearance and also of the prabus 
they use.'' 



DsposmoN Na 10. 



" Laboo maketh oath and saith, that he was fishing at the entrance 
of the Maratabas Biver when the village and boats there were 
attacked by the Serebas or Sakarran Dyaks. The Dyak prahus 
were six in number, one very large and five small ones. 

" This deponent was on shore in a house at the time they attacked 
the trading-boats anchored off the village, and saw the attack made 
and the boats captured. After that the crew of one prabu landed 
and attacked deponent's house and set fire to it : the deponent fled 
into the jungle, and the Dyaks plundered everything in his house. 

'' This deponent further saith he saw the Kling wounded by the 
Dyaks, who crawled into the house next deponent's and there died. 

'' That he deposes these prahus to have becm either from Serebas 
or Sakarran. 



APPENDIX. 275 



** He is well acquainted with the appearance of these Dyaks and 
the description of prahns they use. Six men were killed and four 
wounded in the attack; this attack took place about forty-five days 
ago. 



DsFOfiinoir No. 11. 

'^ LoHOT^ a Linga Malay, maketh oath and saith, that about forty- 
five days ago he was in a small boat, with four persons besides 
himself, at the Maratabas entrance of the Sarawak Eiver. At break 
of day five bankongs, or prahus, came from seaward and attacked 
their boat. They killed his father and two uncles, and a Kling-man 
who was a passenger on board. The boat cleponent was in was 
bound to Kaluka, and everything on board of it lost. Deponent 
alone escaped. The cargo of the boat was piece-goods : he could 
not observe the size or force of the prahus as he fled, but certainly 
th^ were Dyaks of Sakarran or Serebas.'' 



JUDGE'S CERTIFICATE POUNDED ON THE ABOVE DEPOSITIONa 

*' I, the Honourable Sir Christopher Sawlinson, Knight, BfCCorder 
of Her Majest/s Court of Judicature of the Settlement of Prince of 
Wales's Island, Sincapore, and Malacca, and one of the Judges of 
Her Majesty's Court of Admiralty of the said Settlement, do certify, 
that in pursuance of an application made under the Statute of 
6 Geo. rV. cap. 49, entitled, 'An act for encouraging the 
Capture or destruction of piratical Ships and Vessels,' on the four- 
teenth day of September last past, to the said Court of Admiralty by 
Arthur Farquhar, commander of Her Majesty's Sloop-of-war the 

T 2 



276 APPENDIX. 

Aliatro89, respecting the capture and destraction of a certain fleet 
of piratical prahus or vessels off the entrances of the Kafaika and 
Serebas Bivers^ off the coast of Borneo, depositions of certain wit- 
nesses were taken before me, and the depositions of other certain 
other witnesses absent from the jurisdiction of the said Court were 
taken and received under certain commissions issued by me out of 
the said Court of Admiralty, touching the same; and that it has 
been proved to my satisfaction by the evidence so adduced before 
me, that on the thirty-first day of July, one thousand eight hundred 
and forty nine, a force under the command of the said Arthur 
Farquhar, consisting of Her Majest/s sloop Royalist, the Honour- 
able East India Compan/s armed steamer Nemem, and Her 
Majesty's steam-tender Rcm^e, with a flotilla consisting of the gig, 
pinnace, and cutter of Her Majesty's said sloop AlbcUross, fitted up 
as gun-boats and manned by seventy-three officers and men of the 
said sloop Albatross, thirteen officers and men of the said sloop 
Royalist, and seventeen officers and men of the said steamer Nemesis, 
succeeded in capturing or destroying eighty-eight of the said fleet 
of piratical prahus at the places aforesaid. And I do further certify 
that the number of piratical persons killed on the said occasion 
by the said armed force was five hundred, and that the aggregate 
number of the piratical men forming the crews of the said eighty- 
eight piratical prahus who were alive on board the said eighty-eight 
piratical prahus at the beginning of the attack thereof, but who were 
not taken or killed, could not have been less than two thousand one 
hundred and forty. In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my 
hand, and caused the seal of the said Court to be affixed in Sinca- 
pore aforesaid, this eighth day of October, in the year of our Lord 
one thousand eight hundred and forty-nine. 

(Seal) (Signed) " CHR. RAWLINSON/' 



APPENDIX 277 



III. 

MR HUME'S LATEST CHARGES AGAINST SIR JAMES BROOKE 

The substance of the most recent charges brought against Sir 
James Brooke by Mr. Hume, worked out in. two or three elaborate 
letters to the Earl of Malmesbury^ may be most concisely seen in 
the following questions which he submits for his Lordship^s con- 
sideration. They are to be found in the " Parliamentary Papers " 
of this year. Mr. Hume is responsible for the grammar as well as 
the spirit of them : — 

'' 1. Whether the conduct of Sir James Brooke, in getting pos- 
session of Sarawak from Muda Hassim, under the guns of the 
Royalist, is to be approved of by Her Majest/s Government? 

''2. Whether, having got the possession of Sarawak in that 
manner, and also obtained the sanction of the Sultan for a tribute of 
2000 dollars, and considering that Sir James Brooke got rid of that 
tribute under the guns of Sir Thomas Cochrane, and farther obtained 
a new grant from the Sultan when he was in the jungle, and under 
constraint of the British forces, is not derogatory to a British 
subject and to a British Government P 

" 3. Whether the complaint of the Sultan, that Sir James Brooke 
has never paid the tribute to him, is consistent with the honour of a 
British officer and the British Government ? 

'' 4. Whether it is right that Sir James Brooke should be sup- 
ported in Sarawak by a British fleet, when he has violated all his 
agreements with the Sultan, who first sanctioned the possession P 

'' 5. Whether it is right to keep Sir James Brooke as Her Majesty's 
Commissioner to the very man he has thus injured, and refused 
to pay his tribute P 

*' 6. Whether, as Sir James Brooke holds Sarawak without any 



278 APPENDIX. 

sanction from the British Govemment, and without paying the 
tribute as agreed to« Sir James Brooke should be allowed to hold 
Her Majest/s Commission any longer?'* 

An answer in detail to these questions^ and to the long 
elaborations of which they are the finishing touches^ would be out 
of place here ; but Mr. Hume may be assured that they can^ and 
will at any proper time^ be answered satisfactorily. It must suffice 
here to state that the charges involved in these questions are built 
on a perversion of plain facts^ and a partial application of isolated 
passages in my former work, or in that of Captain Mundy. It 
is hence evident that the refutation of them must be rather long : 
and I will therefore abstain from any further remark, after 
observing that the principal offences now alleged against Sir James 
Brooke are of many years standing— older even than the piracy 
question : and I still doubt whether the public will admit that it has 
been "the victim of strange and discreditable delusions/* in 
patronising Sir James Brooke as a respectable character. 



IV. 

QUESTION OF " TRADING." 

There remains one matter of accusation against Sir James Brooke 
as to which, it being out of my province, I have thought it best to 
ask him to famish me with his own explanation. It has been stated 
that, while he is a servant of the Crown, he is also a " ^ader" which 
two occupations are held to be incompatible with each other. I 
have received from Sir James Brooke the following statement, 
which, as it appears to me, ought to set the question at rest: — 

*^ You ask me for an explanation with reference to the charge 
that I have been a merchant, whilst holding an office under Govern- 



APPENDIX. 279 

ment^ and that my ' mercantile speculations ' were opposed to the 
public interests. If by a merchant is meant a person who buys and 
sells for his own advantage^ then I have never been a merchant 
at all^ and I most distinctly contradict the assertion that I have ever 
been engaged in 'mercantile speculation/ or pursuit^ since my 
appointment to office in 1847. In the year 1846 I was the unpaid 
agent of the English Oovemment. In 1847 I was appointed 
Commissioner^ and in January^ 1848^ became Governor of Labuan. 
With these dates the following brief narrative will be better 
understood. In September 1841 it became necessary that a 
revenue should be raised to support the expenses of the New 
Government of Sar&wak^ and this revenue was realised with the 
consent of the native chiefs. Owing, however, to the depressed 
condition of the population, the expenditure considerably exceeded 
the income ; and, in order to supply the deficiency of the public 
revenue, I (through agents appointed for the puipose, and in 
accordance with the custom of Malayan rulers) purchased the 
produce brought by the natives for sale. The entire proceeds 
derived from this expedient were applied to defray the charges 
incurred by my unprecedented, but public, position; and the 
deficiency of the revenue, year after year, was made good from my 
private fortune. I leave you to decide whether, in the ordinary 
application of language, it can be said I was trading at all, or trading 
for profit to be devoted to my own advantage ; from the first hour I 
undertook the government, my desire was to place the revenues of 
Sarawak upon a secure basis. After encountering many obstacles, 
I succeeded in carrying out my views on this subject, and in 1846, the 
antimony mineSy the opium fEurm, and other inconsiderable items of 
revenue were leased for five years, and at the same period the 
trading operations on the public account were finally terminated. 
** In 1849, in consequence of the bankruptcy of the lessees, this 



280 APPENDIX. 

lease reverted to Oovemment ; and in 1860 the antimony mines 
were again let^ whilst the opium £ann has since continued to be 
managed by an officer of the Sarawak Oovemment. To explain the 
system of revenue pursued in Sarawak might be tedious her^ but 
such are the two principal soiurces whence it is derived, and upon 
which the question may be judged. The antimony mines are 
analogous to the Crown mines of any other country : the revenue 
from them accrues from the annual sum paid by the lessees; 
the rights of individuals, whether European or native, are not 
violated, nor is the freedom of commerce in any manner infiringed 
by the appropriation of these mines for public purposes; and 
instead of being as formerly a forced labour-monopoly for private 
use, they are now applied for the benefit of the people by free 
labour supply. 

^' The opium farm is identical in principle, and not materially 
different in its operation from the opium feum in the Britii^ 
settlements. It is a hrm for the purposes of revenue on the 
retail sale of opium; and the right of retail sale rests in the 
Cbvemment, and is let to a farmer, or if a farmer cannot be found 
is superintended by a government officer. I may add to this hnd 
explanation, that the revenue system of Sarawak, although probably 
not the best that could be devised in theory, is suited to the state 
of society; is, conjointly with myself, administered by the native 
chiefs; and is not complained of by the people; and it must be 
clear that a public revenue, realized as I have described, and applied 
to public purposes, cannot be termed a 'mercantile speculation ' in 
which I am personally engaged. If the revenues of Sarawak 
cover the annual expenses of the Government I am content; 
and if at any time one branch of the revenue should be super* 
seded, the deficit would be supplied by some other tax imposed 
on the people; but it could in no way affect my personal 



APPENDIX. 281 

interests^ excepting as it affected the prosperity of the conntrj. 
I have expended a very considerable sum from a limited 
private fortune to maintain the government of Sarawak^ and to 
relieve the sufferings of its people ; I boldly afiSrm tiiat the security 
and happiness of a large population now depend upon the 
Oovemment : I have refrained from imposing taxes even to repay 
the sum I have laid out; and at this present moment the revenue 
barely meets the expenditure, and the country is burdened with a 
debt. I have expended the greater portion of the salary I have 
received from the English Gt>vemment to advance public objects ; 
I have made sacrifices in which I glory, and I have gained nothing, 
but the love of a rude, and noble people. After a life of danger, 
privation and pecuniary sacrifice, I fed the hardship of being called 
a trader — one engaged in 'mercantile speculations' contrary to 
duty, and to honour, and contrary to the interests of the public. 
I will make good what I have now advanced whenever I am called 
upon, and prove that a public revenue cannot be confounded without 
injustice vnth private trade, and that I have never been engaged in 
any ' mercantile speculations ' or pursuit since my appointment to 
office in the year 1847/' 



V. 

PRODUCTIONS OF NORFOLK ISLAND. 

The subjoined list of woods^ and brief description of some of the 
plants and shrubs growing on Norfolk Island, may not be found 
uninteresting. As will be seen, they are of various degrees of 
usefulness. There is no near prospect of any of them running out, 
and in fact the island is still almost half bush, within which young 
trees of most kinds are shooting up to supply the place of those cut 
down. Yet coal should be now sent in considerable proportions for 



282 APPENDIX 

the forges. Making charcoal on the island uses up most extrava- 
gantly the best hard timber^ and the practice of tanning should be 
discontinued^ and the hides salted and sent to head quarters. 

Tke Cherry Tree^ the bark of which is used for tanning, is one of 
the most useful woods, and it is decreasing rapidljr by being stripped 
of its bark, and so left to perish. 

The Norfolk Island Pine (Altingia excelsa) is seen 100 feet 
above the other forest trees^ and resembles the Norway spruce, but 
its tiers are more distant. Its timber is not of good quality, as it 
soon rots when exposed to the weather, and the teredo, or auger 
worm, makes fearful ravages in the fences made of this timber, which 
seldom stand three years. It is generally used for building purposesi, 
flooring, partitions, &c. ; and when kept dry and not exposed to the 
weather, it is more durable. The Pine (Araucaria excelsa) is also 
used for the same purposes, and is precisely of the same quality, 
but not so lofty as the former. 

The Blood Wood (Croton sanguisfluina) is of little value except 
for firewood, but on an incision being made in the bark, a fluid 
exudes which is used for marking the convicts' slops, staining 
furniture, &c., and it is a good tonic and astringent. 

Hop Wood (Dordonea orientalis) does not attain to more than 
a foot in diameter, and is principally used for veneering and turning 
ornaments. 

Iron Wood (Notelaea longifolia) is used in all wheel-Wright's work, 
and is very hard and durable. It is also used for cabinet-work, 
and, when French-polished, it is not excelled by any of the &ncy 
woods. 

Maple (Acer Dobinea) is also very handsome, and used for 
cabinet work. 

Hard Yellow Wood (Blackburnia pirmata) is much used for 
making household furniture. 



APPENDIX. 288 

)FAit€ Oat (Hibiscus Patersonii) a shady tree forty feet high. 
Its leaves are a whitish green^ sepals green and petals pinkj fading 
to white, and the size of a small wine glass. It is the largest of 
the mallow tribe, and attains sixteen feet in circumference. In an 
economic sense it is valueless, except for firewood. 

TAe Norfolk Island Cabbage Tree (Seaforthia sapida) is a 
handsome palm, about twenty feet high and two feet in circum- 
ference, green and smooth, with annular scars left by the fedlen leaves : 
the firondes form a magnificent crest at the top of the column ; they 
are pectinate, about nineteen feet long, and they vary firom nine to 
fifteen in number. The apex of the trunk is enclosed in the 
sheathing bases of the leaf-stalks, along with the flower-buds and 
young leaves. When the leaves fall they discover double-com- 
pressed sheaths, pointed at the upper extremity, which split open 
indiscriminately on the upper or under side, and fedl off, leaving a 
branched spadix or flower-stem, which is the colour of ivoiy, and 
attached by a broad base to the trunk. The flowers are produced 
upon the spadix ; they are very small, and are succeeded by roimd 
seeds, red internally. As the seeds advance towards maturity, the 
spadix becomes green. The young unfolded leaves rise perpen- 
dicularly in the centre of the crest. In this state they are used for 
making hats ; those still unprotruded and remaining enclosed 
within the sheaths of the older leaves form a white mass, as thick as 
a man's arm : they are eaten raw, boiled, or pickled. In a raw 
state they taste like a nut, and boiled they resemble artichoke 
bottoms. 

The Norfolk Island Grass Tree (Freycinetia baueriana) is a 
remarkable production. It belongs to the tribe of Pandanese or 
Screw pines. Its stem is marked by rings, like the cabbage tree, 
where the old leaves have fEtllen off, and it lies on the ground, or 
climbs like ivy round the trees. The branches are crowned with 



284 APPENDEL 

crests of broad sedge-like leaves, from the centre of which the 
flowers arise, the petals of which are a bright scarlet, and the sepals 
green, and when they fall off clusters of three or fonr oblong 
pulpy fruit, four inches in length, and as much in drcumferenoe, 
appear. 

The Tree Fern (Alsophila excelsa) measures forty feet in height, 
and has a magnificent crest of frondes. The black portion of the 
trunk is used for stringing by cabinet-makers. 

The Tree Fern (Cyathea medularis) is about twenty feet in height 
the frondes of which are eleven feet in length, and present the same 
beautiful appearance as the former. Another beautiful Tree Fern 
(Maraltia elegans) has firondes fourteen feet in length, seven feet of 
which are destitute of branches ; of these it has eight and a half pairs, 
which are again branched and clothed with leaflets five inches long, 
and three-quarters of an inch broad. 

The Norfolk Island Bread-fruit (Gharlwoodia australis) attains 
twenty feet in height; it branches firom within a few feet of the 
ground, and forms several heads, with flag-like leaves, and long- 
branched spikes of greenish star-flowers, succeeded by whitish or 
bluish purple berries that are eaten by parrots. 

Botyodendrium latifolium, a shrub of singular form, allied to the 
Ivy, but of a veiy different appearance, prevails near the coast. Its 
figure may be compared to a long-leaved cabbage, mounted on 
a broomstick. The stem is about fifteen feet high, and five inches 
round; its largest leaves are about two feet long, and one foot 
broad. The fruit is a dense cluster of greenish purple berries, 
not edible, produced in the centre of the crown of leaves. 

The Norfolk Island Spice (Piper psittacorum) attains the height 
of ten feet, and has cane-like joints, and heart-shaped leaves. It 
produces a yellow, pulpy, pendant, cylindrical fruit of a spicy, 
sweetish taste, which is an excelleni preserve, and, if gathered green. 



APPENDIX. 285 

it is equally good pickled. The leaf bears great resemblance to that 

of the P&n^ or beetle creeper of the East Indies. 

The fruits grown in the garden are^ the Peach, a very inferior 

kind^ but the tree growing vigorously is thus calculated to make an 
excellent stock. The Almond, of two inferior kinds; one with 

a very hard shelly the other with one a little softer^ yet still also 

hard. 

The Quince, a good stocky but likewise of inferior quality. 

Several varieties of Apple, much affected by an island blight. 

Vines, of sorts which all grow freely^ and might be cultivated to 
ponsiderable perfection. 

Pine-apples, which grow and fruit well^ but of inferior quality. 

Banana, small and good. 

Strawberries excellent^ but the plants must be renewed yearly, 
like other plants on the island, never resting, and being thus soon 
exhausted. 

Raspberries have been tried, and grow vigorously, but do 
not fruit. 

The White Mulberry (Moms alba) is wild, but does not fruit, 
and an experiment made by Mrs. Machonochie, of feeding silkworms 
on the leaves, folly succeeded. One young English mulberry-tree, 
a young walnut-tree, and about ninety vines of superior cuttings, 
introduced also by Mrs. Maconochie, are in the Gbvemment House 
garden, and are all promising, but quite young, having only been 
introduced within the last two years. 

The wild fruits (not indigenous) are the guava, lemon, lime, 
citron (very rare), orange (a great many were destroyed by order 
of Major Morrisett), and Cape gooseberry abundant. All these 
grow freely when unmolested in the bush ; but when planted out, 
all, excepting the last, are much subject to the same blight with 
the apple. 



286 APPENDIX. 

Melons and Pumpkins of all kinds thrive weU^ as also coffee^ which 
fruits abundantly^ and of good quality. 

Most English vegetables are on the island, and^ excepting that 
they require a frequent change of seed^ they in the main grow wdL 

The common potato^ turnip^ carroty cabbages^ cauliflowers^ onions, 
leeks^ lettuces^ beans^ peas^ rhubarb, asparagus, are all good. It is 
garden culture and cropping, indeed, that generally suits the island 
best, — crops only a short time in the ground, with frequent 
renewing of light manure, constant cleanliness, and a due r^ard to 
shelter. When these are combined, and quality of return is sought, 
rather than mere quantity, the cultivator will seldom be disappointed. 

Of tropical vegetables there are three, — ^the sweet potato, arrow- 
root, and South Sea tara. The latter is indigenous, and is found on 
the banks of aU the creeks. The two former are cultivated exten- 
sively, particularly the sweet potato, which is the chief article 
of food used by the prisoners, and attains an enormous size. The 
arrow-root when properly prepared is not inferior to any grown 
elsewhere. 



THB END. 



XiOVDOK : B&ADBURT AHD KTANB, PBniTBBfl, WHTrBTBTAM. 



■a-A^aiwaMMa^^MBHiHuMi 



I. . 



r