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About Google Book Search Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web at |http : //books . google . com/ ■t ^H^ \ VOYAGES TO THB EAST-INDIES; BT THE LATK JOHN SPLINTER STAVORINUS, ESCL &BAR APMXRAL IN THE SERVICE OT TIS. STATES-GENERAL. Tranflated from the origiqal Dutch, Bt SAMUEL HULL WILCOCKE. WITH NOTES AND ADDITIONS BY THE TRANSLATOR. The Whole comprifing a full and accurate Account of all the prefent and late Poilèilions of the Dutch in India» and at the Cape of Good Hope. ILLUSTRATED WITH MAPS. IN THREE VOLUMES. VOL. L CONTAIKING A VOTAOB TO THB CAPS OP GOOD HOPE, BATAVIA, BAK* TAM, AND BENGAL, WITH OBSERVATIONS ON THOSE PABT8, &C. IN THE YBAB8 1 768* 1771. LONDON: f EINTED FOR G. O. AND J. ROBINSON| PATER* MOSTER-ROW. PREFACE. X H E original of the work now offered to the public» has met with much approbation in Hdland. It conftituted» originally, two different works ; the account of the voyage to Batavia, Bantam, and Bengal, having been firft publiflied; and afterwards, iepa- rately, that of the voyage to Samarang, Macaifer, Amboyna, &c. Hence proceeds the different forms in which the two voyages are moulded ; and hence fome repetitions occur in the fecond, of what had been noticed in the ffrft. Mr. Stavorinus was poft-eaptain in the naval fervice of the States General; but a long period of peace, and the little employ- A 2 ment iv ^ PREFACE. ment that occurred in the Dutch navy for men of enterprize and abilities, prompted him to requcft permiffion to go a voyage to the Eaft-Indie&v as captaia in the employ of the Dutch Eaft- India Company, retaining^ /however, his rank of captain in the navy» The accounts of his two voyages, in that capacity, are here given ; and his readers Will find him, throughout, a ma'n of obferva- tion and intelligence.' fie was afterwards promoted to the rank of rear-admiral, which he held at the time of his death* Acquainted with the family, though not with the perfon, of the author, during a re- sidence at Middleburgh, in Zealand, the tranflator has endeavoured to do all poffible juflice to his work, in the drefs in which he now prefeilts it to the public. A regard for truth, however, obliges him to declare, that he has had to ftruggle with much difficulty in correfting paflages, which, in the Dutch original, ^re extremely faulty, from the neg- ligence ligence of the editor i the original abounds in typographical eniors, arid in miftakcsJa numerical charaéters, fbme.Df which thé tranflatoF hds redificd from th/eir obvioui^^ nefs^ and a 'certain knowledge .of the true reading, others from conjeiSlure, .and others^ though as few in number as poifible) be has been obliged to let remain as he found them. • With refpofL to the notes and additions which hé has made, : they are colleébd from every authentic fource within his reach ^ from the accocmts of mother travellers, frbni' other Dutch writers, from authentic docu- ments, manufcripts, and flatements, and, in a few inftances, from oral information : the work, together with the additions, he flat- ters himfelf will be found to contain much new information refpeéling the aétual and late poffeflions of the Dutch in India, which, in the prefent (ituation of affairs, cannot fail of being extremely intereftiag. He had, for it PBEPACS^ for ibme time previous to the publication of dieie voyages^ coUeded the materials whence his additions have beeii made, with an idea of forming them into a general account of the Dutch Indian fettlements ; but meeting with thefe voyages^ and thinking an Engliih Teriion of them could not fail of being ac«-^ ceptable, he conceived himielf more ade« quate to the talk of giving a tranflation, with .the additional information required , to ren- der the whole as complete an account of the Dutch fettlemenfes as his materials would admit of^ in notes, than to that of com-» pofing an original work himfelf upon th« fubjed. DireSions to the Binder for placing the Maps. In Volume I. Map of the Weftem Arm of the Ganges, to face page jSjj Sketch of Saldanha, Table^ Wood^ an4 Falfe Bays, to face In Volume II. Chart of th^ Paflage from Batavia to Amboyna^ to face page « , . ,115 In Volume III. Map of Great J^va^ to face page < • i^i VOYAGE , , . TO Tub gape OF GOOD HOPE» BATAVIA» BANTAM, AKDJBENQALi IK tH< YBAKS I76S'*t77i; I » > ' . ÖOOK I. CHAPTER L Dipêrè»ê from Z%AhATSiT>.^^Tbe ^him^lbs.--*- Sd1XTflAliFT0K.-<-PoitTSllOVTH.~aR7. "^Departure from Spith»a».— »ï& Nxebles. -^Jlfigndê (f Porto Santo ^^ Mabsira.-^ Fljing^fijh. — ^nds of Sal and Bona VisTi^. — Dorados. — Dolphins. — yilbicores. — Bonüos^*— Sharks. — PÜot-fiJb. — Cape St. Aügustinb.— ^e Abrolhos. — Signs of Land. — Variation of the Compafs. — Anchorage in Table Bay, at the Cape of Good Hope. On the loth of June, 1768, the Eftft- India Company's fhip the SMik (the Piké)^ under my congimaad, received her finardii^ patches; and upon tnuftering the ere w, for the iall time^ we found that the number of men on board ammmted to twai^ndred and roz.'^f B twenty^ t ï ] twcnty-fïvc ; coniifting. of one hundred and forty-feven feamen, feventy-fevcn foldiers, and a pafTenger» who was a mechanic. Wc -were fitted oiit^ ajs ufual, fór nine nioRths, and were bound to Bataviaj by the way of the Cape of Good Hope. On the i3th, the wind coming round to the eaftward, we flipped our cables, in the road oï Rammekens^ and fet fail ; but on reaching Flujhing roads, the tide failing, and the wind veering to the fouth, we were obliged to come to an anchor. We remained, here, windbound, till the 24th, when we again weighed an- chor, and put to fea with a frefh gale from the caft, and fine weather, faluting the town of Flujhing with fifteen guns. We were clear of the land at nine o'clock a.m. and returning the farewel-falute of the pilotboat that had accompanied us, we fleered for the Straits of Dover^ and lofl fight of the ifland of Walcheren about noon. At funrife, ^be 4ie3(t day, we faw the oppofite coafts of Eng- land and France ; of the former, the North and. South Forelands, and of the latter, the high land in the neighbourhood of Calais. At noon we found ourfelves abreafl oïDover^ '.which is the firfi place on the Englifh coafb ^ that [ 3 ] that appears on entering the CHatinel ; here the eafterly wind failed us again, and it be-* gan to blow a ftifF gale at s.w. which made us reiblve, the next day, to run in behind the Shingles^ and there wait for a more fa- vourable opportunity of proceeding on our Voyage. Befides feveral other ihips^ we found lying at anchor here, our States' fri- gate, the Young Prince of Orange^ com- manded by Count Byland, fent out to cruifc for the homewardbound Eaft-Indla fleet, and which had failed from Campverc the fame day we left Flujhing. The Shingles is the name given to a large (and, that ftretches out full a league and a half from the Englifli coaft, fomewhat to the weflward of Folkftone. It appears above water, but is very low, and would be very dangerous, efpecially in the night, were there not a lighthoufe at its extreme point, whereby fhips are enabled to perceive and avoid the danger. Veflels lie in fafety here, proteifted from the s.w. and wefl winds; but being open to the s.s.w. and fouth, when the wind veers a point lower, they mufl of neceflity immediately put to fea. On the 29th of June, we faw two home- B 2 ward-» [ 4 ] wacidlH>iind Eaft^^Iodiamcu (landing toward» us; upon which the States* frigate^ the SUbung. Prince ef Orange^ weighed anchor, and &t fail, in or/kr to convoy them to Hbliand. In the night we had an eclipfe of' thc' moon ; the. beginning of which, \rf ray Qbfervatian, gave a difference of 7' 31'' in time between Pür/i and our fituation at anchor, or i^ 52' 45" weft longitude from theixncridian (^ Paris ^ ' The following day, being the 30th of June» the wind came round in the evening to the eaft ward; whereupon we left the SetMg/es a ihort tkne before midnight, and held our courfe farther down the Channels But on the nextiday, having fcarcely reached as, fax as the llle of fTigèt, the Iky began to ailume a black and menacing aipeé^ to-f wards the weft, while the eaft wind now whpUy failed^ us. Appreheqfive of the com-» i'ng ftorm, we< handed all oiur fails, and it foon . burft upon, us with the greateft vehe« mence : it wa^ apcpmpanied with the moft tremendous .thunder and lightning, and iêemed to threaten inevitable deftruélion. On ^rei as I afterwarda was informed, it cauürd great devalbation : on thQ road from I Londm lil L&nim to Part/mouthy Aaaiiy trees wfereilhsck by the lightning, and torn tqp by the roots ; while much damage was done in HU the farms and gardens thereabouts. This thunderftorm continued about riiree bours^ from ibven till ten o*clodc at nighty without however doing our (hip any mafebtial da^ mage. The wind then recred to 'the s.w* where it remained ftationary, and blew mofUy 4n heavy gales^ without intertnifflont ff om that quarter, till the 7th of July, whéA it increafed to a violent ftorm» T'his. in- duced us, the next day, to dttermine U|^otl putting into Fortfmoutb^ that We m^t ntfl be driven farther back up the Channel ; and that the crew might not be uiineceflarily haraflèd, without our being able to ad« vance on our voyage, fince our men Were daily fatting ficit, and thirty of them were already unlit for duty. We accordingly reached Sfübmdi and caft anchor there the following day, b«ing the 8th of July. While Wtt lay here, I n^de an èxcur- fion to Sèutbampton^ which is (ixteen Engliik miles, or about (vL hours' walk from* Qof- p^rt^ a kind of fuburb to ParifiieHtb^ lyihg on the oppofite fide of the harboui** The B 3 road tqzé Xo that place, leads through a hilly, unpromifing, and barren country, but which affords food for fliccp, fevcral flocks of which wc met with on our way. Here and there were fmall running ftreamë, that flowed down 'from the hills, into the val- ues. Wc ftopped halfway at a village called Titcbfieldt being two long ftrccts of tolerably goodlooking houfes. Southampton is a town, iltuated on a river, which runs into the fe^ oppofite to Newport J in: the Ifle of Wight ^ navigable above the toys^n, for veffels of a moderate . burden, and . called Southampton - water . When the Danes were in pofTeflioft of England, Southampton was the feat of their kings. It is naturally ftrong, being almoft forwunded by two branches of the rivers it is befides encircled; by a ;wall of hewn ftone, which bears ftrong nxai: ks -pf antiquky. From the riveriide, runs ik.lpóg and broad ftreet, which. is adorned oa, both fides by very handfome houfes^ reaching as; far as the landgate^ which opexis to the London road. Over the gateway, is the ftatu^ of C^cen ANNEy as large ag life; This. Jong (ixeet is the principal, and, indeed, may be fai4 I' 7 ] €aad to be the only one, /the others being of hardly any confequence \ The town is much frequented in the fummer feaibn by the Englifh nobility and gentry» pn ac- count of its agreeable lituation ;. and every kind of diverfion, balls, conceits, plays, &c. are then to be met with, as was. the cafe when I viiited the place. Portfmoutb is at prcfent a well-fortified town, and the works which furround it, particularly on the landfide, are very con» fiderable. Clofe to the town, on the north- fide, are the King's building and dock* yards, his magazines and arfenals. The immenfe quantities of naval and military ftores, that are kept here, are incredible* Moft of the EngliiK ihips of war are laid up here, in time of peace, but they are al- ways kept afloat. The largeft (hips of their navy are to be feen here : I was on board of one, a three-decker, which meafured on the- jower deck, one hundred and ninety- feven feet Englifli, being equal to one hun^ * The additions and improvements which have been made in later years, iince the time Mr. STAVORiNtrs vifited Snah* é9M^toit, 17681 make Che town aiHime a different appearance from what is here defcribed. T, 9 4 dred [ 8 ] dredasdiliaetjHfiye and k qusfiter feet Aém flttdiam, and which cacried one hundred and twenty guns *. Oppofiic to Portfmtmtbt lies the town of GoJ^t. . The inlet between both, which is very wide, is ufed for a iiarbour ; its en-^ trance is defended by feveral coafiderable batteries. Go/port has many ftreets, and IS crouded with (hops, which in time of war, and when there are many fliips here, are much frequented^ and very flouriih^ kg; 'Oh a point of land, which is caUed Spitèeadj whence the fame appellatipn is gWta to the road before it^ where the King's ihips ride, there is a large and {lately hofpitai for the fosunen>*of the navy, which is kept ^ceedingly clean and neat, and in which the fick are treated with the greateft care and attention» The 24th of July, the wind becoming favourable, we weighed anchor in the morn- ing, and endeavoured to put to Tea, round the weft-end of the Ifle of Wigbty or paft ^ The hrgeft Oiips in the Dutch navy, are of 74 tnd to guns f thfir harbours will fcarcdy admit of (hips of greater force. T. the t 9 1 die Needles; but in the afternoon» we were obliged, by a change of wind, to let drop our anchor before Cowes^ a town in the Ifle of JVigbty whence a great trade is carried on to America; and on the aótfa/ as it began to blow hard, and the road of Cowes was not very iafe, we returned again to SpitbeaJL The next day, on the wind again coming round to the eaft, we left Spithead^ for the fboond time, but we ftiH could not pais the Needles ; for coming near them, we found the tide againfl us, and the wind too icanty to fail out ; and we were therefore obliged to turn back again^ and anchored before Yarwumtb^ which is a ünall place in iiutmtoimghu The Needles are high (harp rocks, like pyramids, (ituated at the weftem end of the Ifle of Wight ^ and clofe to which ihips muft Êiil. On tlie other fide of the channel, lie the Shingles, a iand which is dangerous to be approached too near. On the aSth of July, however, we were fortunate enough to clear the land ; but it was only on the 4th of Auguft, that we left the Channel, and fleered our courfe, in order to run in fight of the iflaud Porto Santo. Between C «o .] Between ten atad eleven o'clock on the morning of the 6th, we obferyed a re- markably ftrong aurora borealis, ftretch- ing from w, n% w. to n. n .e. The £ky ap- peared, in that quarter, perfeéüy in flames ; the rays, which ihot forth in a Terpentine direction, from the horizon to the zenith, were inceifant ; and that whole fide of the heavens feemed to be agitated, and in com- buflion ; the horizon was clouded, and the wind northerly, blowing a light gale; the greatefl heat that day was 67*^ by Fahren- heit's thermometer ; and at noon our lati- tude was 48® 1' north. For fome days fol- lowing we had a fteady north wind, with frefh gales, fo that on the 16th of Auguft we ran in fight of the iflands Porto Santa and Madeira • We here found ourfelve^ 3*^ 6', or 39 leagues, more to theeaflward than our eflimated longitude, fince we had taken our laft obfervation,^ on leaving the Lizard Point. Many vefTels make an eafterly mifieckoning in thefe feas ; and it may, with great probability, be attributed to the indraught of the currents, in the bend between Cape Canting and Cape St. Fin^ centy towards the Straijts of Gibraltar. Much f " ] Mu«b care ought therefore to be taken i^ thcfe latitudes, efpecially in the night* The weather is here lik^swife often very cloudy, which v/^^ the reafon, that we did not fee Porto Santo in the morning, till we were within three or four leagues of it : whereas it is vifible in clear weather, at the diftauce of eight or nine leagues off. Porto Santo appears in the w.n.w. with four high hills, the northernmoft of which feems as if it were feparated from the others, but it lofes that appearance, on failing two or three points farther. Wc ran along the ifland at the diftance of a ihon league, in order to take an accurate view of it. It is rooftly hilly, and had alfo, through good glafles, an arid and barren ap* pearance. It has a fteep rocky (hore aU round, except on the foutheaft fide, where there is a low. inlet or bay, along which fome houfes are built. There is a great rock on its north- fide, lying detached from the ifland, which, when it bears w.s.w. .per-» fedjiy. refemblcs a church with a fteeple, the latter rifing from its fouthern extremity,. Th^r^ dre^ befides this, ieveral other rocks, as [ « ] fts weli under water as above, lying all itinind the ifland. Madeira lies s.w. about fix or (even leagues from Porfo Santo. It is much larger, and has feme very high mountains. When abreaft of Porto Santo^ you firft perceive a great hazinefs, very like a thick fmoke, to the s.w. nearly ten degrees above the ho- rizon, which on a nearer approach is difli* pated, and the high land bf Madeira rifes to view, yet ftiU enveloped with clouds halfway downwards from the fummits of the hiHfe. To the s.e. of it, lie three fmill ifland», which are very high, but barren and uninhabited ; they are called the Ilbas De* Jhtas^ and corruptly by our feamen, the Sifjierós^ and are (ctn at a great diftance. The fea is not difcoloured round any of thefe iflands, as is the cafe round many others^ which muft chiefly be afcribed, to there be* ing na ground, but very clofe to the ihore, whereby the water retains its azure limpid- nefs. We found that the variation of the coApafs was here 17^ n.w. and the greatcft heat of the day was at the fame time, on hoard our ihip, 78*. The [ 13 ] The number of lick began now greatlj to increafc. Abou^ fixty or icventy of the crew were already confined to their births^ and fbur had died. The. prevailing dif- tempers were bilioue fevers an4 ipaünodic colics ; akhough we had but little rain, and no exce^ve heat^ the thermometer feldooi rifing above 78?. I therefore now would not ful^r' the men to drink beer, but I had it mixed with their barley-porridge yn the morning, and only allowed them water to 4fiBk. The confequences of this regu- lati9n were very falutary ; for very few feU fick afterwards, and thofe that were ill re- covered, though gradually, fo that on ap« piüaching the line, we had but few on the ficklift. We now began to fee many 4y^^S fUh *, and we frequently made a good breakfaft, upon fuch as had fallen upoj^ the fhip, during the night, as they fre* quently do, without being able to raife themielvts again, and which we found lyin^ on the deck in the morning. They are cotomonly of the fixe, and much of the ihape. t '4 ] ihape, of herrings, though they are, In ge-* neral, rather (mailer than larger ;* the head is fbmewhat obtufe, the back blackilh, and the belly white ; they are the beft bait that can be put to a hook, for catching of dora- dos amd albicores : they arc moftly to be met with between the tropics, though they are fometimes feen as far as the thirty- fecond and thirty- third degrees of 'latitude ; yet at this diftance they are but rarely found, and never wander into higher latitudes. The day after we had lofti fight of the iflands Porto Santo and Madeira^ we* met with the fettled north-eafterly tradewind, with which we fteered to the weftward of the iQznd Pa/ma (the moft wefterly' of the Canary iflands), and paifed the tropic of cancer on the 2 2d of Auguft, five days after we had left Porto Santo and Madtira. - The greateft heat on the day we pafled the tropic was 78§^. • ' On the 27th, at about three o'clock in the morning,' we came in fight of the IJIe de SaU one of the Cape Verde iflands. We had for three days* been accompanied by a number of landbirds, among which were many fwallows ; and thefe kept cbie to us tiU C >5 ] till we came in fight of land, and then they left us. The ifland Sal is not very high, except on the north-fide, where it is diftinguiöiable by three hills, the northernmoft of which is the higheft» The land to the fouthward of thefe emmences is middling low, and (lopes into the Tea, at the s.e. point. The latitude of this point was, by obfervation, 1 6** 34' north; and the variation of tlie compafs 10^ degrees n.w. The thermo* meter on board flood that day, at two o'clock P.M. between 83"* and 84''. The ifland appeared to be about three or four leagues in length, and full half as broad. There is a very dangerous reef, that extends out from its north-fide, but it fbemed clfe- where to be tolerably bold and fafe. About fix or feven leagues nearly fouth of j[/k de Saly lies the ifland Bona Vijia^ which is almofl one-third larger, and rather lower, than the former : it has two eminences of a middling height, that appear diflinélly upon it. There are two reefs, orie at the north* fide, and one at the fouth-fide, which flretch out to the eaftward,» and which are both very dangerous. The £afl-India Company's fhip C ^« 1 i^p^LeimuidfMj w^ wrecked on one of them in the year 1769. Both thefe iflands tp^ peared very barren ;• and Bona Fi/la ieemed iandy^ being here and there interipcrübd with low faBdhills. We found ourfelves, by obiervation» at thefe iflands, lai leagues more to the weft« ward, than our eAimation» fince our laft ob^ ièr vatton of the longitude off Madeira. The light winds and high-running fea, prevented us from pafling to the eaftward of the ifland Bona Vijla ; and we were at laft obliged^ in order to avoid the danger ci touching u{idn the reefi^y to run between that ifland and Sal^ after we had fpent four*^and-twenty hoars in vain attempts to weather Bma Vifia. On the 28th, in the evening, we loft fight of thefe iflands, and dire£ted our courfe towards the line. The northeaft tradewirid failed us twi9 daya afterwards, and cbiingéd to (buth and s.s.w;. which was exa£üy in our teeth» We were then in i3i* of north latitude* Thefe variable winds were frequently ac^ companied by violent thunderftorms and heavy fliowers of rain, of which we availed^ in order to fill our empty watercafles, fo that tbif [ »7 ] this neceflary clement could bc more liberally diftributed to the crew ; and which was of great benefit to them, on account of the encreafing heat of the weather. Yet wc had not much calm, till we again came into the courfe of the fettled foutheafl: tradewind, and we had hardly any iick on board. We were moftly encountered by thunderftorms, about the time of the rifing* and fetting of the moon, which feems to have more influence on the weather, within the tropics, than without them. The in- flru^lions which are put on board of our £aft-India Company's ihips fay, that in thefe feas, the wind veers to the northward, at the new and full moons : this, however» we never experienced; but, on the con- trary,. we met, at thofe times, with hard gales from the s.w. which were {bmetimes accompanied by a lowering iky, and violent iqualls. The nearer we approached to the line, the more fiih we had about the fhip, of which we caught large quantities ; do- rados, albicores, and likewife bonitos, iharks, and others ; which afibrded a moft welcome and agreeable refreihment to the feamen. VOL* I. c The [ i9 ] The dorado, or johii-dorec*, is one of the moft delicious feaüih that is caught* It is long and: flat, and covered with very finall fcales. It is froin four to eight feet in length ; but I feldom faw any caught that exceeded fix feet, and ten or twelve pounds in weight. The head is obtufe and rounds and immediately behind it is the broadeft part of the fifli, while the body is thin and narrow, tapering until it reaches the tail. When «this fifh appears near the furface of the water, it (bines with a moft lively mixture* of various colours, blue, green, iilver, and gold. It fwims with great velocity, and darting at its prey, the flyingfi(h, it is fbmetimes feen to leap fe* vera! feet out of the water. Although the dorado is the fineft fifh that is caught at fea,. it is yet fomewhat dry eating* The tail roafled is very good, and tailes much like a roafted cod's-tail. The dolphin -f, which I fuppofed to be the male of the dorado, has the fame fliape and tafte, but is not adorned with fuch mag- nificent colours. * Fakrj a fpccres of zttts. f Cwyfhmm hifpurus. The [ «9 1 The albicore* is a bulky fifh, with a lharp head^ thick belly, and thin tail. The back is of a dark->brown hue^ and the belly is white. Its ilefh is firmer than that of the dorado, but it is drier, and has not fb £ne a flavour : it is nevertheleis very tafte- ful 6)od for a iailor. We caught feveral albicores that weighed upwards of fixty and ibventy pounds, and which we had fome difficulty to drag on board by the line. They never fwim alone, but always a num* bcr together. They are caught by a hook, or are ftruck with a harpoon. / They do not ' but more for the fake of the (port than for culinary purpofes, to which this fiih is very little adapted ; yet the tail fometimes affords a meal to the failor ; but it muft always be firft trodden upon, or otherwife bruifed, till a : light foam exudes from it. The ihark is a voracious and carnivorous animal, and * Scomber ptlaiHjs* catches [ ai ] catches at, and devours every thing within its reach. It is highly dangerous, for thofe who may have the mifchance to fall over- board, and for fuch as bathe or fwim in places where it inhabits. Its prey would never efcape, were it not for the difficulty which the ihark has to catch it, from the iituation of its mouth : this opens, as it were, under the throat, the fhout protruding eight or ten inches farther ; fo that, when the (hark approaches its prey, it fwims direftly under it, and is obliged to turn on its back, and then fuddenly fnaps at it, and fwallows it whole. The mouth is very wide and broad, and is furniflied with a triple row of teeth, which all fit into each other, and cut every thing in two that comes between them. I have feen an iron cro^, which had been thruft into the mouth of one of thefe animals, and in which the marks of the teeth were plainly to he feen. Its greatefl force is in its tail. • When caught, it beats the water with its tail, and makes it foam ; and when hauled on deck, it would break, by its means, the limbs of any one who might venture to approach too near. Its Ikin is very hard and rough, elpecially when dried. c 3 It [ " 1 It appears on the back and fides of a dirtjr green colour. It is conimonly caught by a large hook, faftened to a double or triple braffwire of four or five feet in length, for cordage of any kind would be immediately bitten afunder ; this braffwire is attached to a long and ftrong cord, which is made faft oa bo2^rd ; about fix feet above the hook» a piece of wood is fixed to the' line^ which ferves to keep the hook fleady» and this is baited with a piece of pork or beef. As ibon as the fhark has taken the hook, it mufi: have free play with the line, particu« larly if it be a large one, which is eafily per- ceived, the water of the ocean being very clear and tranfparent ; after which the line muft be foftly drawn in again, and fuccef- fively veered out, ^jjhenever the fhark begins to pull, till in the end its forces be ex- haufled ; it mufl then be hoifled on board by ropes round its body, and killed,, or flunned, by repeated blows on the head with hand- fpikes or iron crows, when the tail can be cut oflF without any danger. The fhark has generally ftve, fix, or more, fuckingfifh* haiiging to it, which will not let go their * Ecbuuis nmwa, hold. f H 3 hold, and which require a degree of force ' to pull thehi ofF, Beüdes the fuckingfifh, there is another dux that accompanies the fhark ; it is called the pilotfifli *, becaufe it is fuppofed to con-. du6l, or pilot, the ihark to its prey. This üfti is much lefs eaiy to be caught than the £hark itfelf ; yet we were fortunate enough to ftrike one with an eellpear, for they never hite at a hook. It was eight inches in length, ^nd ftriped tranfverfely with dark- blue and white lines, of about an inch broad, running round its body like fillets. It weighed about two pounds, and was very nice eating, and not fo dry as other feafifli. After much difagreeable delay, we at laft got into the s.e. tradewind, on the 17th of September, in the north latitude of three ^degrees and a half; and on the 22d, in the evening, we pafTed the equator, on the fame day and hour that the fun entered the fouthern ligns ; the heat of the weather by the thermometer was 77®, and our longi- tude, by cftimation, fix degrees and a half weft of Iteneriffe. » Gafterafttus éluélor. c 4 On [ H ] On the 30th, wc were in the latitude of Cape 5/. Augujiine^ and on the 6th of Oc» tober , we had paffed the Ahrolhos. The for- mer is the eaftern extremity of Brazil. If once one falls below, or to the weftward of this cape» it is not an eafy matter to double it, without again crofling the line, to en-» deavour to get into the track of the wefterly winds, in the thirty-fourth or thirty-fifth degree of north latitude, and th?n running with them {0 far to the eaft, as to"get into the proper courfe for paffin^ the line again ; cafes of this kind are not unfrcquent. The Abrolhos are an aflemblage of fands and rocks, fbme of which are above water, and fome under; they lie in about eighteen degrees fouth latitude, and extendout to fea full twenty leagues from the land. Ships coming upon them are in great danger of being loft, or at leaft of lofiqg thiciV voyage ; wherefore the Eaft-r India Company direft their commanders, on having pafled thefe dangerous fhoals, to perform a thankfgiving- fervice, and to diftribute a quart of winp per man to the crew. The variation of the compafs, in the lati- tude of Cape St.AuguftinCy was two degrees 5 N.W, [ *5 3 N. w. and in that of the Abrolbos half a de- gree N.E. - In 2 2* fbuth latitude, we loft the eafterly trade wind, and had variable winds, though moftly from the eaftward, and fometimes from the north, as far as 30^ or 31"*, where the wind became wefterly. Whenever it blew the leaft to the fouthward of weft, we experienced a confiderable degree of cold, and the thermometer did not rife higher than 53*" or 54*" in the warmeft part of the day i while it was much warmer when we had northerly, or northwefterly gales* . The fcurvy began now to make its ap- pearance on board, and in a fliort time many of the crew became unfit for duty, and feveral of them died. But the ravages of the dileafe were not fo great as we might have expeöed, from the lengtH'of the voyage, it being now three months fince we Jiad left England. On the loth of November, we faw for the firft time trumpets^ or fea-bambop *, float- ing on the ocean ; this is a thick reed, with Jafge pointed leaves, and a calyx, refem- * Fucus bitccimdis. bling [ 26 3 bling the moitth of a trumpet, whence it has its name. Wc likewife fa^ petrels *^ and pintados -f- j which, although both fea- birds, never go far from land. The firft, are about the fize of a common fowl, and are quite black ; they are very lumpifli, and fly heavily, and clofe to the water. The others may, for fize, be compared' to a fmall goofe ; they are always met with in pairs : there is another kind that fly fingly, and go much farther from land ; they are white, with black fpots. From thefe figns, but cfpecially from the variation of the com- pafs, having encreafed to i8* n.w. and thus to within two degrees of the variation in ^able Bay, at the Cape of Good Hope ^ we con- cluded that we were not far from that fa- mous promontory. The variation of the compafs is the eafieft, and almoft the fureft, rule that is obferved by our navigators, to arrive at the Cape, and to determine the longitude they are in ; for neither folar nor lunar cclipfes occur frequently enough for the purpofe, and it i£ fcarcely poffible to take an obfervation by the fatellites of Ju- * Precilhuria aqmnoSiialis* f ProcillarU capenfit. I piter I *7 3 ^ter from on board of a ihip, ou^acGouiit erf* its continual motion. If the inftrument be correé):, and the obfervation accurate, the variation of the compafs may be depended upon ; for inftance, in the latitude of Cape St.AuguJime^ on the coaft of Br^s;^^ when the aortheafterly yariatk)n is iio longer ob^ fervabte, that is, wlien the needle fhews the true north, or before it begins to take a wefterlj variation, you may then be affured that you can double that cape ; and iii the fame manner in the latitude of the jUbrolbos ; where there is no danger as long as the variation is 2® or 3® n.e. Thence to. the eaftward or foutheaftward, the va- riati(m cncreafes, and the needle progref- fively turns more to the weft, as far as the longitude of Madagajhar^ where, in 39** or 40* fouth latitude, it at prefent, points 2^* to the weftward of the true north ; and again, from that part, it decreafes in paff- ing to the ftraits of Sunday more and more, till in 12^ or 13®, it again fl\ews the true north. At the Cape of Good Hope^ the variation was this year full 20j^ n.w* The wefterly variation augments every year, and it has for fome time been found, that at [ a8 ] at Paris^ its annual increafe amounts to lof minutes or one-fixth of a degree, according to the Cmnoiffanct des Temps pour V Annie 1771. At laft, on the 17th of November, about three o'clock, p.m. to our great joy, we difcovered the land of Africa^ near the Cape of Good Hope^ the Table Mountain bearing caft, about twelve or thirteen leagues off; but it being too late in the da}, to attempt reaching the road, we thought it advifable to ply off and on, during the night, and not to try to enter the bay, till the next day. We now found that our longitude was I® 45', or 22 leagues, more to the weftward than by the fliip's reckoning, fmcc our laft obfervation at the ifland Bona Vijla^ on the 27th of Auguft ; fo that we had but a fmall mifreckoning for fuch a length of paffage. The number of dead fince our departure from Flujhing was thirty ; and we had fifty-eight on the ficklift, moftly down with the fcurvy. The next day, early in the morning, we carried a prefs of fail, and fteered towards Table Bay, between .the Wahifcb^ . or I «9 ] or Whole Rock, and the Lion'S'tai/; but owing to its falling calm, it was not till four o*clock, P.M. that wc reached the anchorage in the inner road, and faluted the fort with thirteen guns. We found lying at anchor here the Eaft-India Com« pany's Hoy, the Sneibeid (the Speed)^ and a French ihip, bound to the ifland Bourbon. On entering the road, the land has no very agreeable afpeét, appearing only to be fteep and rocky mountains, nearly deftitute or verdure, while the fort and town of the Cape are not feen', till very near the an- choring-ground. But of the feveral par- ticulars relative to the Cape, I ihall fpeak more at large in my obfervations, at the clofe of my journal. CHAP. [ so 1 CHAPTER ÏI. Cape of Goop Hope. — Journey up the TAPtB Mountain. — Fine Prcfpea from its Summit. — Jrrival of the Swallow, Captain Carteret, at the Capey from the South Seas. — Departure from Table Bay. — The Ifland St. Paul»— r Amsterdam Ifland. — Singular Noife coming up out of the Sea. — Violent Storms. — Enoano.— Reef Ifland. — The high Land of Sumatra. — ^ Entrance into the Straits of Sutiri^A. — Ifiands rf Kraketau, Dwars in dilm We^, Wapens Van Hoorn, Onrust. — Ancboragf J^efeitt Batavia. XNOT long jafter our arrival ztiheCap^ of Good Hope, I had the curiofity to afcend the Talf/e Mountain, the difficulty of which, I was afTured, would be well compenlatcd by the pleafurc, the jaunt would afford me. Accompanied by three other gentlemen, who were aftuated by the fame motives^ and provided with fome provilions and a guide, I fet off upon this excurfion, about half paft two in the morning, from Cape* town, which is fituated at the foot of the mottirtain. The road thither, led along fome gardens. t 3« ] gardens^ which the inhabitants of the towa had laid out here and there^ as a kind of rural retreats. For fomething lefe than half an hour's walk beyond thefe, the way was caly, and the acclivity little ; farther on it began to be more fteep, running along a narrow ridge of the mountain, which end- ed about halfway up abruptly, againft thi; fide of a precipice. This place, the inhabi- tants of the Cape call the KrantSy or Wreath, We arrived there at funrife, be» ing about half paft four, and made a reft<» ing place of it. This ridge was formed, on either fide, by correi^onding fteep and pro* found hollows. On the right hand, mur« muring over the pebbles, which abounded in the hollow, ran a rivulet, whofe fpurce was at the fummit of the mountain, and which fupplies the town with water. The ridge itfelf was nearly overgrown with un- derwood, which was formerly the refort of wild beafïs, although none at prefent inhabit it ^ at leaft we neither faw nor heard' any thing of them. Hitherto the afcent was not very difficult, but the path now began to be very pre- cipitous, and fo narrow, that it was feme- times C 3* ] times not above two fe«t broad. There were feveral places, which we had to clamber up, which deviated little from a perpendicu- lar line. On our left, we had a wall of ileep rocks, heaped, as it were, in maffes upon each other ; and on the other (ide, a deep chafm, into which it was both tre- mendous and' dangerous, to venture a look. In climbing up, we had to hold ourfelves faft by the flirubs, which grew up from between the interftices of the rocks; and the labour and fatigue of the afcent, generally obliged us to take breath, whenever we came to a place that allowed us leifurc. The higher we came, the more difficult we found the path, fo that we had in the end, much to do to hold faft by the üirubs, to prevent our falling down from the dreadful height, and benig dafhed to pieces. Sometimes, when we met with large ftones, and had room to look about us, we rolled them downwards, and fallowing them with our eyes, perceived them in their fall, fuccef- . fively loofening many others, and heard them together clattering with a horrid noifc down the fteep fides of the chafm. We fbmetimes likewife met with large maffes of I 33 ] of ftone, of full twenty feet fquare, which had been torn from the mountain, and lay di/perfbd in different fituations down its fide. The ground on which we trod, con- fifted in nothing but loofe ftones, heaped upon each other ; the iharp fides and angu- lar irregularities of which^ greatly added both to the danger, and to the difficulty of the afcent. If one of thefe was loofbned^ many others followed it, and rolling away from under the foot, threatened to hurry the unwary traveller down the abyls along with them,unlefs,with a firm hand, he could grafp the friendly fecurity of Ibme neighbouring deeprooted fhrub. It was half paft feven when we got to the top of the Table Mountain, and found curfelves on the level fummit, which is pe- culiarly called the Table ; and from the fiat appearance of which, feen from below, the whole mafs has its name. We,here enjoyed the finefl: profpeö that imagination can conceive. Both wind and weather were^ favourable. The flcy was unencumbered with clouds, and the fun- beams were uninterrupted. Our view on one fide was bounded by the mountains of VOL. !• p Hottentot C 34 1 Hottentot Holland. To the IbuthwarJ, we beheld the breakers foaming along Fal/k Bay, as far as its eaftern point, and againfl Roomans Rock * which lies in it. Between this extenfive inlet, and the Table Moun- tains^ appeared the vineyards of Conjiantia. A little farther was Hout^ or Wood Bay ; and turning more to the weftward, the Lion^s Mountain^ of which that part called the head, although of a great height, appeared to us like a hillock, on account of the much greater altitude of our fituation : it feemed to lie almoft under our feet, notwithftand* ing it is near ten thoufand feet from the Table Mountain ; the LiorCs-tcdly which is more than one thoufand feet high, was fcarcely diftinguifliable from the plain. The fineft fight was that of Table Bay. Uö^- betiy or Sml Ifland "f-, which lies in the mid* die of the bay, though it is three miles In circumference, fcarce leemed as many feet. The roafts of the fliips which were in the bay, could with difficulty be difcerned ; ^ Rwmam Rock, fo called, from a kind of red fi(h, named roimans or red nunj by ihe inhabitants of the Cape, which abound in Fal/e Bay. They are excellent eating, and feem to be a fpecies of mullet. ST. t This is c^llcd Penguin Ifland, in our maps» T» while t 35 ] while their yards and tackling were in no* wife diftinguiihable. The fmaller veffeb and boats appeared like fpecks ; yet Doffen ^ or JSo^fr Ifland*|Was perfeftly vifible. Cape- town, upon which we looked direéÜy down, appeared^ a fmall fquare, in which we could diftinguiih the divifions into ftreets, but none of the houfes or buildings, the church ex- cepted; which, however, was alfo hardly difcernible; and the fort, which lies at a tittle diftance from the town. It is difficult to defcribe in how fmall a fpace the whole of the above, and the circumjacent country ibemed to be compreiTed. The view down that üde which we had afcended, was in the higheft degree frightful ; appearing like an overhanging precipice. The profpeól of descending again that way, was by no means alluring, yet there was no other prafticable path. The air, at this height, was very cool and rarefied, notwithftanding the fun fhohe very bright, and it was in the fummer-feafoa * This is improperly called Coney Ifland, in our maps ! h has its name from the quantities of a fpccies of Ouinea-rat, or the canfia capenfis^ with which it abounds, and which are wrongfully called dajjin or badgers^ 'by the people of the Cape. r. D 2 ia [ 36 ] in this country. At Cape-town it was * warm day, for the thermometer then flood at 8o*^, We caufed the flaves, whom we had brought with us, to colled fbme brufliwood, and lighting a good fire, we fat round it, and had a comfortable dinner. Having thus refted for fome time, we af- ' terwards walked over part of the Table, which took us an hour and a half. Its fur- fecc is not perfectly level; for there arc here and there rocky irregularities, though feldom exceeding a man's height above the plain. This eonfifts in many places of bare rock, lying in ftrata, and undulated like the waves of the fea. On the n.e. and s.e. fides the interftices of the rock are filled with a ftony kind of earth, and produce various kinds of flowers, with which we were unacquainted ; fome of them afl^ord- ing a grateful odour, and others fmelling very difagreeably *. We were fbme time fearching for the fifliponds, which we had been told were formerly found on the fiim- * Dr. Thunberc mentions» as growing on the fummitof the mountain, the following rare and beautiful flowers, crcbit grandifloray ftrafias iubularis^ ferafias melaleuca^ and the blue di/a longicomtj ; the firft and laft of which he never could, meet with any where elfe. T, mit [ 37 ] itiit of the mountain, but met with nothing of the kind. In the chinks and hollow places of the rock, however, we found fome very fweet freih water, which had a yel- lowifh appearance, and which probably had been lodged there by the denfe clouds which cover the Table when the wind blows from the s.b. This water refrefhed us greatly, for we had not taken any with us from the town, and were extremelythirfty. Several fpots, where a little earth had been coUedled, produced a kind of reedy grafs, with (harp points, and growing tolerably high, interiperfed likewife with flowers, as beforementioned. To the fouth and fouth* eaft, the Table has a fenfible flope, but it is alfo on thofe fides bounded by a precipitous defcent of feveral hundred feet, with over- 'hanging rocks, and black protuberant maifes, fo that it is here utterly impoflible to be fcaled. Having remained for the fpaoe of full four hours on the lummit of the mountain, we began our defcent a little before noon ; having proceeded downwards for about half an hour, we arrived at a cavity in the rock, which we had overlooked on our afcent, and ^ which being fliaded by a part which jutted P3 ^^^ C 38 ] . out a good way, formed a pleafant grotto* Xhc ground was covered with fliort grafs* A limpid jet of fwect water, of about aa inch in breadth, fprang from the rock at the back of the grotto. We refted upon iSm foft verdure for about half an hour, and, iconfuming our remaining provifions, again viet forward on our return. The danger and difficulty we found in defcending, were even greater than when afcending the mountain. Obliged to look carefully around us, where to fet our feet, we could not avoid beholding at the fame time the dreadful abyfs before us, which -was fufficient to make the fteadieft head .giddy. The leaft falfe ftep was much more dangerous than before 1 for while we were clambering upwards, we could fecurc our- .felves by holding by the fhrubs, but now we could not do fo, without going back' wards, which, indeed, we were fometimes obliged to do. As for Aiding down over the loofe and fliarp ftones, that feemcd to us, not only more dangerous, but alfo im* tprafticable. At half paft two o'clock, how- ever, we reached the flat rock, as it is call- ^dj^ in fafcty. This is a long and level fpaco [ 39 ] ^ace of rock, about two-thirds up the xnountain, over- which the rivulet which nfes at the top of the chafm guflics down- wards* We refted here again for a fhort tirtic, and refreflied ourlelvcs with a draught of the clear fountain-water. We then, pro- ceeding farther, entered an eafier path than that we had pursued in the morning, on our afccnt, and returned to Cape -town about four o*clock ill the afternoon. The whole of the next day we could fcarcely move either arms or legs, in confcqucnce of the AifFhefs of our joints, contraded by the fa- tigue we had undergone ; and for a week af- terwards, we felt great pain in our thigha, whene^r we attempted to walk, even along a level ground. Shortly after this, there arrived at the Cape of Go$d Hope, an Englifh vefTeU the SnvallwD floop, commanded by Captain Carteret, who had failed round the world, having left Spitbead in the month of Auguft, 1766, and paffing through the -ftraits o{ Magellan 9 had traverfed the Pa* cific Ocean ; and after having ftopj)ed fbme time at Macajkr^ had touched at Batavia^ D 4 and [ 40 } and now made the Cape, on his way home. Only fifteen of the crew had died during the whole voyage, and the moft part of thefe met their fate between Batavia and the Cape, They keptlhe objeft of tneir voyage a profound fecret. All I could difcover rc- ipeéling them was, as I thought, that their longefl flay had been at the ifland of Juan Fernandez *. Having received back our fick, who were but half recovered, from the hofpital, and the ftrength of the reft of the crew being recruited, by a daily refrefliment of good beef, greens, and bread, we left Table Bay on the 1 2th of December, with two hunr dred and eighteen hands, to proceed^ on our voyage to Batavia^ the chief fettlement of the Dutch in India, The foutheafterly wind, with which we had left the bay, veered to the fbuthweft as foon as we were * Captain Cartehet ftayed about a week at Maffafuero^ a fmaller ifland, and near that of Juan Ftmandiz^ having un- cxpededly found the latter inhabited and forti£ed by the Spaniards. If we except the time he remained at Macaffaty repairing his ihip, and refreihing his crew, which was up^ wards of five months, his longed flay was at Vcnu Britain^ and the other iflands to the eafi of THew Guinea* T. I 41 ] cut at fea. We were, in confcqucncc, three days tacking about, in vain, before we could double the Cape. The 1 5th, however, the wind came round to the n.w. and we fleer* ed to the fouth, and afterwards in an eafter- . ly direöion, in order to double the Cape of Anguillas^ and to pafs the reef of the , fame name. We found, however, that our fhip was very leaky, and we were obliged to keep the pumps almofl continually a-going, efpecially when we carried any more fail than ufuaL On the 20th, we faw a lunar rainbow, which was very clear and light, but had no diflinót colours. On the 24tb, we met with a violent flrörm from the s.w. which continued to the next day, with a tre- mendous highrunning fea ; fo that wc were obliged to lie by, as we made much water, and we could no longer flem the force of the mountain-waves. The wind was accompanied by hail, and fbme hail- ^ones fell upon the fhip, which were as * large as a pigeon's egg* While lying by, the mizen-topfail, which was the only piece of canvafs flanding, in order to keep (be (bip^s bead fleady, was torn out of the braces ; r 4» ] braces ; and wc were obliged to fet a reeved mizenfeil, though wc were every moment afraid to fee the maft come by the board, as it was very unfouad : yet it fortunately -ftood out the gale. At the iame time the water gained upon our leaks very faft, by the fevcre ftraining of the veffcl againft the rwaves, (b that we were forced to pump al- tnofl: inceflantly. On the 25th, the weather became calmer, and the fea fmoother^ We then again put before the wind, and purlued our voyage towards tlfit eaft. When the ftorm was over, we found that all our "fpare fails were foaked, and a great «part of our bread fpoiled by the feawater ; ■the principal fcams were likewife, almoft «very where, wrenched fo far open, that in fome places they would admit a man's hand : this, however, wc repaired as well as wc could. On the loth of January, 1769, we faw a great number of gulls, and in the evening ieveral feals, fhearwatcrs, and black land- hirds. Hence we concluded^ that wc were ^not far from the ifland St. Paul; though^ according to our computation, it lay 80 leagues I « 3 leËgucs farther. For two days we had not been able to obferve the variation of the compafe, on account of the cloudy weather^ by which the iiin was wholly obfcured.. We however, at noon, obferved our lati* tude, and found that it was cxaftly that of the abovenaxned ifland. The fky was, in the afternoon and evening, very thick, by a continual rain ; and having, therefore, fo little light, I direfted our courie to be al- tered two points from the eaft, to e,s,e. ia order to run down out of the latitude of the ifland, which proved the means, of our prefervation ; for at half paft ten at night, we had a glimpfe of the land, clofe upon our lide, fb that it even feemed to hang over us ; but having got to windward of the ifland, we were enabled to run off ihore before the wind, in a foutherly direftion^ which we did, till we were at the diftance of two leagues from the ifland, and we then fet our courfe again towards the scaft. This ifland, and that of Amfterdam^ which lies fifteen leagues to the northward, are the only known iflands in the fouthern Indian Ocean [ 44 ] Ocean below the tropic of Capricorn ** They are not large, but pretty high, par- ticularly St. Pauly which is vifible, in a clear day, at the diftance of nine or ten leagues. The Eaft-India Company fent two fliips to thefe iflands in the year 1726. They were uninhabited. There was frefli water on both, and on that of St. Paul a hot fpring of mineral water. There was good anchor- ing-ground on the north fides of both, and the fea around them abounded in fifli. I did not find that any vefTels had vifited them fince that time; they lie at 400 or 500 leagues diflance from the continent -f-. I direded little fail to be made during the ^ In the fubfequent j/oyages of M , de Kerguelek» M. M. Mariot and Crozet, and Captain Cook, thofe navi- gators difcovered other iflands in this traél of the ocean, con- fiding in a large idand, called Ktrgiulen^ t^landy in about 48^ fouth latitude, and 64^ 90' eafl longitude from Qreenwic^i, and fome fmall iflands, in three different places, about the la- titude of 46^^ and 47$^, and longitudes 37% 46^®, and 484? eaft from Greenwich. X- f Themoft recent, as well as the moft accurate, account of thefe iflands, is to be found in Sir George Stauntoii's Account of Lord Macartney's Embafly to China, whofe fquadron touched there. T*. Pight, 5 t « ] night, intending in the morning to fteer again for the ifland^ in order to have a near view of it ; but finding at flinrife that, as the iky remained overcaft, and the heavy rain continued, there would be fome danger in doing this, for want of a fufficiently clear view, I defifted from the attempt, in order not to expofe the ihip unneceflarily. Shortly afterwards, about fix o'clock, there arofe a found jufl like the groaning of a man out of the fea, near the fhip's fide. When I firfl heard it, I thought that fomc one of the crew had been hurt between the decks, and I fent the officer of the watch down to fee what was the matter. The men, however, who were on deck, told me that they had heard this noife ariiing, as it were, from out of the water feveral times before; and I then perceived it to be as they laid ; for going on the outfide of the mainchains, I plainly heard it ten or twelve times repeated. It feemed to recede pro- portionably as the (hip advanced, and leffen- ing by degrees, died away at the flern. I fuppoie that it was perhaps occafioned by a fealion, that might be near the fhip, as many of thefe animals were faid to have been t 4s arrive at the age of puberty, they do not any longer reikle with their father, but have each their fepa- rate feraglio or harem. All the fervants of the palace are women^ and even the atten- dant guards of the king arc of the female icx ; for, although, when he appears in pub* lie, he is accompanied by bis Bantam life- guards, yet they are never admitted withia I the t «7 ] the gates of the fortrefi* Thefe, befidea their ordinary fidcarms, crijfes or long dag* gcrs, are provided with pikes, the iron heads of which are very long and broad ; and the king is likewife attended,. when he goes abroad^ by a guard of Europeans from the garriibn. The religion of the kingdom of Bantam is the fame as prevails throughout Java, that of Mahomet. In what relation this part of the ifland ftands, with refpeft to the Dutch Eaft-India Company, will appear in another place. Fort Speehoyk is a fortrefs, which» the £tompany caufed to be built, during the civil wars, between Sultan Agon, king of Ban* tam^ aad his fon (in 1682); and it was called Speelwyk^ in allufion to the name of the 4hen governor general of India, Cornelius Speelman. - It is fituated on the eaA bank of the river, a very little way from its mouth. It is a fquare, defended at three of its angles by regular baftions, and at the fourth, by a demi-baftion. It is mounted with forty-eight pieces of cannon, of various calibers. The noath, fouth, and weft fides are coveted by a wet ditch, which is, how- F 2 ever. t is ] ever, neither broad nor deep ; and tvhicft has a communication with the river that wafhes the eaft fide. The walls are coix** ilru6ted of a heavy and hard kind of ilonc, and are thirteen or fourteen feet in height, but in feme places tht*y are beginning to decay. In the interior of the fort, there is an open fquare, planted with trees in the middle, the fides of which, are formed by feveral buildings, in which part of the Com- pany's fervants refide. Amongft thefe, the houfe of the commandant is diftinguifliable above the reft, having lately been hand-ü fomely rebuilt, and amply provided with roomy apartments ; one of which ferves for a chapel. The other buildings confift in, barracks for the foldiery, waiehoufcs, &c. ThJ^ gate is very near the riverfide, over which there is a drawbridge, and oppofite to it is a pretty long ftreet, in Which the Company's fervants refidc, for whom there is no room in the fort, together with a few Chinefe. The garrifon is nearly equal io that of Fort Diamona\ but a confiderable number are generally confined by ficknefsj this place being confidered as even more un- healthy than Baiaiiia. ' - The C 69 ] . The chief authority, in behalf of the Company, is here vefted in a fenior mer- chant, with the title of commandant, who has likewife the management of the trade, which chiefly confifts in pepper, and fome cotton-yarn. This officer, however, is un- der the immediate controul of the local go- vernment at Batavia^ whence he receives orders, and whither he fends reports, nearly every day ; for Bantam is only looked upon as an outpoft or dependency of Batavia : whereas other Commanderies, which arc fituated at a greater diftance from the capi- tal, are only fubjeÖ to, the orders of the council of India, Yet the con^mandant here, has likewife a council, coniifting of the adminiftrator, or lecond in command, and fome of the fervants of the Company following next in rank. There is alfo a fifeal. for the purpofe of preventing the il- licit or fmuggling trade. One Bayard, who filled this office in the preceding year, 'had acciifed the commandant of having himfelf engaged in thefc underhand dealings with the Englifh ; but the accufer died in good time, and the accufed was acquitted oi the charge. The a6lual commandant, r 3 J. Reinouts, t 70 ] J. Reinouts, was a native of Enkbuizm in North Holland, and had enjoyed the ap* pointment for fome years. I was told at Batavia^ that he paid great attention to the Company's pepper-trade. Whenever he goes out in ftate, he is efcorted by a guard, confifting of one non*commifConed officer and twelve privates. He is addreifed by the title of achtbaar beer, or worfliipful fir, and his inferiors never approach him but with the deepeft relped. To the Commandery of Bantam alfo be- long the refidencies, or fadories which the Company poflefs» at Lampong Toulan Bau^ wang, and Lampong Samanca, both fituated in the fbuthern part of the ifland Sumatra. Thefe are fubordinate or conquered pro- vinces of the kingdom of Bantam, and yield a confiderable quantity of pepper annually. The officers of the Company who refide there, are chiefly ftationed, in order to keep 4 watchful eye upon the fpice, that it do not fall into any other hands than their own. They have both the rank of book-» keepers, and have each a feW foldiers, and a non-com miffioned officer y^ath them. The refident at Toulan Bauwang, had been pub- licly [ 7» 3 lic^y beheaded at Batavia two or three year3 before i he had caufed one of the grandees of the king of Bantam^ and who was his "deputy there, to be fhot dead in cold blood. The governor general did all that could be done to fave his life, but the remonftrances of the court of Bantam were fo ftrong and preffing, that at laft he was obliged to be put to death. He underwent the punifli- ment with the greateft fortitude and compo- fure. There are two other outpofts, which are iikewife taken from the garrifon of Bantam^ one at Anjer ^ or jiniar^ and the other ' at Jeritta^ both places in that kingdom, but each confifts of no more than two men. They are chiefly fet, for the purpofe of watching the Ihips that arrive, of which they note down the names, and the places whence they come, and immediately give information of them, to the commandant at Bantam, who, in his turn, tranfmits it to the governor general at Batavia. This is done with relpeél to Dutch, as well as to foreign velTels. The day after our arrival, the chefts of money were taken from on board, and car- F 4 ried [ 72 ] ried on ihore ; part of the ballaft was difr charged^ and every thing made ready to fliip the pepper. This was begun to be effeéled on the 15th of May, and on that day we took on board, about 70,000 pounds weight. The. delivery of the pepper was made out of the king^s warehoufes, (ituated near the river, after having been weighed by one of his fervants, by weights of 250 pounds each, in the prefeijce of eight or nine of this ingbebées^ or princes, who took an exa<% account of the whole f a fervant of the Company deputed for that purpofe, and one of my (hip's officers, being likewife pre- fent, to prevent every kind of fraud. It was afterwards carried down the river, in flat- bottomed boats, and put on board, while a guard was ftationed in every boat, to pre- vent any pepper being ftolen ; for the Ban- tammers are greatly addidled to this vice. Heavy goods are weighed here by bbars^ each containing three ptcols^ and thefe laft arc eftimated at one hundred and twenty- five pounds. While the loading of my (hip was going on, I now and then made an excur(ion in* land, together with the Company from J5*- i: 73 ] . tiFoiaj to {ome pajfar, or market. In thefe^ on certain days of the week, all kinds of goods, but more elpecially the country pro- ^ifions, are expofed for fale. We likewifc paid a viiit to a place, fituated about a Dutch mile and a half out of the city, which is called Grobbezak, It is an old and very ruinous four-cornered building, {landing ou a iquarc piece of ground, of about ten or eleven acres, furrounded with water which is three hundred feet broad. A bridge formerlj led to this little ifland, the remains of which were flill to be feen in the water ; but at prefent no one attempts to go over to it, for fear of the alligators or crocodiles, which inhabit the water. We, however, faw none of thefe animals. The natives believe, that no perfon could live in this building, on ac- count of the evil ipirits which refide there* ït is, in all probability, a relic of the Portu- guefe. Sitting on a little eminence oppofite to it, there is an echo, which plainly repeats a word five or fix times. Another day, we went to view the tomb of one of the principal faints of the Ban- tammers. This lay full two Dutch miles from the city, upon a hill, of about two hundred . [ 74 3 hundred feet high. H«rd by is a little viU lage, called Bodjo Nogare. It is not far from the fca, into which the rivulet which runs clofe to it, difchargcs itfelf. There is a pa^r or market» held here every Saturday, for provifions, cotton-yarn, capok *, and other produélions of the land* At the top of the hill which is called Vounong Santri^ from the name of the faint, Aands the tomb, which is made of brick, and is no more than twelve incheé above the ground. At the head and feet, iland two cylindrical ftones, of three feet in height, like fmall pillars, which the Javanefe cover with a piece of white cotton cloth, in h()pour of their faint« The whole is furrounded by a kind of low white ftone wall, raifed a little higher than the tomb. The natives pay extraordinary refpedt to^:his holy repofitory of the dead, and would not fuffer any one to * Capohj Is the denomination given to the cotton, which inclofes the fced^ in the capfule of the filk-cotton-tree {èomiax fentandrum)^ and is not ufed for fpinning, but for making matraffes» bolfters and pillows* The other cotton is the pro- duce of a perennial flirub ^oJJ^pium b^rhaceum). Its feed* veflels contain a very fine cotton, called capaSy which is woven into ao infinite number of cotton and callipo pieces, of various degrees of finanefs* T» commit I f I 75 ] commit an indecorous aélion, or eafe nature, near it, without fcvere punilhment. They are perfuaded^ that even if any animal were to void its excrement upon the tomb, it would inftantly drop down dead. Their legends relate, that this faint walked dry- (hod oVer the fea, in the prefcnce of a mul- titude of faithful muflfelmen, and could pa(s many days and nights, without taking any kind of nourifliment. Clofe by the tomb there is a (hady tree, round which a cubobs- plant, which produces the long pepper, twines its luxuriant branches. Shortly after our arrival at Bantam, Mr. Van Tets, and the company that were with him, had alked leave to pay their re« fpeéis to the king, and the i7tb of May was fixed upon, for that purpofe. Accordingly, on that day, three of the king*s courtiers, magnificently arrayed in the Javanefe fafhion, came to fetch the company, at the head of whom was the commandant Reinouts, while I iikewiie made part of it. The garrifon of fort SpeeU wyk was under arms, and drawn out in two files, from the commandant's houfe to the gate, whither we had to walk between them. tbem. ' Haviog paflcd.thc drawbridge of the fort, we found there in waiting, three of the king's coaches, with European coach- men, drcfl^d in his livery, which is yellow, with red flowers. The deputies from the couf t, defired the company to take their places, i|i the fecoaches* In the firft, were feated the ladies of the company ; in the jfecond, was the commandant Reinqvts, and Mr. Van Tets, efcorted by the ufual guard pf the former, confifting in twelve grena- diers, and preceded by ten of the king's bodyguards; and in the third coach, followed the refl: of the company* We rode in this order, over the Pafcehaan^ as far as the drawbridge of fort Diamond^ where we left our equipages ; and coming over the bridge, found part of the fultan's bodyguards, like wife ranged in two files, as far as the gate of the fort. They were armed with half-pikes, and were naked down to their middle, which was girded by a piece of dark blue or blackifh cotton cloth, which came round between their legs, and hung about halfway down their thighs. While we were pafïing between their ranks^ the gomgoms^ and other Indian mufical inftrumentS| t 77 J inftrütnents» were played. Coming to the gate of the fort, we were met by the king, who took the commandant Reii^ovts, and Mr. Van Tets, by the band, and led them in, while we flowly followed in proceffion# Withm the gate, ftood the guard under arms» and the drums were beat inceffantly. There were befides two trumpeters Rationed at the entrance of the palace, and dreffed in the king's livery, who founded a lufty peal of wind-mufic. The entrance to the palace, is through an arched gateway ; the plaiftering of which was, in all likelihood, once of a white hue, but now appeared very black and dirty. It had, upon the whole, more the appearance of a priibn tlian of a regal palace, and gave me but a very iiïdifferent idea of the infide. Faffing hence, we came into a large haW, which feemed, to the eye, to be about fifty- five or fixty feet in length, and of about half that breadth, with a tolerably lofty ciel- ing, built archwife, and feemingly waiu- fcoted. The walls were whitewaflicd, but looked very dirty, fb that it was eafily to be feen that little attention was paid to them. The floor was paved, diamondwife, with , - fquare J C 78 1 iquare red tllcj» The light and air were let in, on the north (ide, through three windows^ and two large doors^ opening towards th^ inner buildings of the court, which wore likewife not the moft inviting appearance. The door by which we entered, was at the lower end of the hall ; at the other cnd^ was another, leading to the remaining apart-» ments. Near it ftood a couch,- covered with yellow latin ; and alfb a kind of bedftead, with doors ; the whole lacquered in the Chiiiöfe fafliion. A little lower, was an ob* long fquarc table, with a yellow cover, adorned with red flowers ; and on it ftood three large chafed filver difhes, with^i leaves^ areca nut, and the further requiiites /or the preparation- of pinang *. Againft the wall, were two fide- tables, with beau- tiful marble (labs ; and between them, chairs ^ Pinang is the name of the kernel of the areca-nut {m'eem eatbecu) ; but it feems likewjfe to meaa, the mixture of the ingredients they ufc for maftication. The /r/ leaves arc betel leaves {piper betel). Into one of thefe leaves, a piece of the areca-nut, which is generally divided into fix parts, one of which ferves at a time, being put, with a little lime, the leaf is folded together» and kept in the mouth till all the ifarength is drawn out of it. The univcrfality of the praftice of chew- ing betel and arcca, throughout the eafi, is well known^ f. of [ 79 ] of walnut-tree wood, made in the European faihion« At the lower end of the room» was a large mat of fplit rattans» ipread upon the floor, on which the king's courtiers, with the prince, or prime minifter, who had the ad* miniftration of the empire», at their head, iat down upon their heels, as foon as we had taken our places at the table. The king, having led the two abovementioned gentlemen into the room, placed himielf upon a raifed chair, at the upper en^ of the table. Next to him, on the left hand, hav- ing his face turned towards the windows, fat the commandant Reinouts, then Mr* Van Tets, and the other gentlemen of the company. On the oppofite fide of the table, on the right hand of the king, fat his firft queen, the mother of the prince, heir ap- parent of the crown ; next to her was Mrs. Van Tets, then the fecond queen, then followed the lady fecond in rank of our company, then the third queen, then again one of our ladies, and the fourth queen, and next to her, the laft on that fide, fat a little boy, t^e fon of Mr. Van Tets. The two firft of thefe queens feeraed to be [ 8o ] be already pretty far advanced in year», but the two others were younger, and, though ibmevvhat brown, looked very well; yet I remarked fome of the female flaves, who ferved us, who were incomparably hand* Ibmer and fairer than any of the four legal wives of the king* Their drels too, had not any thing peculiarly graceful in it, coniifting in long chintz kabaysy or robes, of a fuffici- ent fine quality it is true, but hanging loofe down to the feet, in the Indian fafhion, as I (hall hereafter more particularly defcribe. Their hair, which was of a jetty blacky was combed fmooth up over the head, and faftened behind with a wreath, which is here commonly called a conde^ richly adorned likewife with gold and jewels. They fat on chairs, in the fame manner as we do, al- though this is quite contrary to the geners^I cuftom of the orientals, who every where are ufed to fit with their legs crofTed under them. Thefe ladies were very talkative, and converfed much with ours in the Malay language, while the chewing of betel or pi* nang was not forgotten, either by the Indian fultanas, or the Dutch ladies. The king, who was addrelTed by the title of I 8i ] of ToysMg Sultan, or My Lord the King; appeared to me to be a man of between forty-five and fifty years of age. His colour was a cheftnut-brown, with a friendly coun« tenance, which was not belied by his man* necs or behaviour. He had a little beard^ and black hair» curling a littlq : he ieemed more inclined to fparenefs than to corpu- lency. His drefs confifted in a long Mooriih coat» made of a certain fluff» interwoven with gold» which is manufaéhired at Surafj and is called Jbesjes. This hung down al* moft to his feet. The fleeves» which were loofe and wide above the elbow» fet clofe to the lower part of the arm» where they were fattened by a row of fmall gold buttons. Under this coat» he wore a white ihirt» an9 a pair of drawers» that reached down to his heels» of the fame fluff as the coat. On his feet he had Turkifh fhoes drawn on flip* fhod» the forepart of which w^s turned up-> wards; and white ftockings on his legs. His head was covered by a round» and fbmewhat fharp* pointed» cap» of a viplet colour» laced with filver. Behind his chair fiood one of his female lifeguards» who was relieved from time to time» armed with a VOL. I. o large C »« 1 targe gold ir/r, in a (heath of ma^ goI<}f which flie continually kept raiiêd on high ; and which the king, when he ftood up to coildu6l u$ out, took from her, and put un- der his arm. Two female flaves, one on each fide, were feated next to him on the ground. One of thefe, held his tobacco-box and his betel-boX| both of which were made of gold, and of a pretty large fize. When he wanted either the one or the other, it was handed to him, wrapped up in a filk handkerchief. The other female attendant, had a golden fpitting-pot in lier hand, which fhe handed from time to time to his majefty, as he flood in need of this utenfil. As loon as we were fèated, pipes and tobacco were prefented to us ; after which the commandant Reikouts and Mr. Van Tets entered into converfation with the king, on indifferent fubjeé^s, in the Malay language. Hereupon the king called the pangorang^ ox prince, prime minifter, who, as 1 have before mentioned, was fitting at the lower end of the hall, at the head of the nobles, to come to him. He accordingly crept along the floor, till he came near the king's chair, wher« he remained fitting on the [ «3 ] the ground, anfwcring^ the qucftions which the king put to him. He often replied with the word ingbiy which is the Javanefe affirmative, yes\ but as I underftood little of the language which was fpoken, I was neither edified nor entertained by the dia- logue« About half paft eleven o'clock» the cloth, which confifted in a white piece of cotton, was laid upon the table ; and in a moment it was provided with a number of fmall diihes, filled with all kinds of Indian food, drefled in various manners. The chief in* gredients of moft of them were, however, fifli and poultry, varied by numerous fauces, according to the cuftom of the country, of fiigar, vinegar, or tamarinds. A fquare icarlet woollen cloth, was laid upon the ta- Ue before the king, and upon this, thc-difhes were placed which were defigned folely for • his ufe, and of which he ate heartily. With regard to myfelf, it was only with the great- eft difficulty, I could fwallow a part of what was fet before me, which was fiih preferved in fugar, and which indeed I fhould not have touched at all, if politenefs had not required that I fliQuld tafte of fomething« . o z Mr. [ «♦ ] Mr. Reikoüts had taken care to provide himfelf with a few bottles of wine and beer» which it would elfe, have been in vain, to have looked for, at the king's table, and we could therefore, now and then, indulge in ft glais of thofe liquors, during the dinner. The king frequently broke wind upwards, during his meal, and his example was afli- duoufly followed by all the gentlemen in company, which afforded matter of no little iurprize to me. But I afterwards was in* formed, that this cuibm, fo contrary to £u« ropean notions of decency, was an etiquette of the court of Bantam^ and was affeöed, in order to fhew that one's appetite was good, and the viéluals tafteful, which was very pleafing to the king. After this courie was taken away, three large di(hes of confectionary and paibry were put upon the table ; and theie were more to my liking than what had pre« ceded ; but neither the king, nor his quoen^ feemed to care much about them* In the mean time, ibme large china bowh with boiled rice, and fome diihes of fiiht which came from our tkble, were fèt be* fme 4he nobles, who were at the end of 5 the t «i ] tb» tmA, and who ipccdily emptml fli«i| widi continual eni^tioxis» which echoed through the hall ; after which, they again fiitdown as^before, upon their heelt, each according to his rank. Qn their right haod^ but feparate from them, fat the fecond loa of the king, who ièemed to be a youdi of about ieventeen or eighteen years of age, of a good countenance, but fquinting a little I was told, that he poflefled a good judg- ment, and more, underftanding and abilities than the heir apparent. This prince had his viduals brought him, at the fame time with the nobles, but ibparately; and he was attended by a female flave, who fat by faim. About two o'clock, we rofe from table, and took our leave of the king, who conduét* ed us out, in the fame manner as he had led ns in, as far as the gate of the fqrt, followed by the prince, his ion, who led the coun- iellor MsYsa by the hand i the whole ac^ comptnidd by the continued pcFformancc of mufic^ hf the gomgms, trumpets, &c. Without the gate, the' king took his leave, and returned to his palace, and we went pver the eiplanade, and the drawbridge, to Q$ tbp t «6 ] the fame coaches in which we had come^ and which carried us back to Fort SpeeU Two days afterwards, it was announced to us^ that the king would ride that day in proceflion, drefled in his pontifical robes, from the fort to the great temple, or moique, to perform the fervicè of their religion. Cu» rious to behold this ceremony, we fode, at noon, to Fort Diamond^ and took our places, lb that we could fee his majefly» ftep into his coach. About half paft twelve, he came out of th<^ palace, dreffed in a white Êicerdotal robe, which was large and wide, and was faftened round his waift by a girdle. On his head he wore a large white turban, and on his feet large flippers, embroidered with gold. His coach was drawn by only two horfes. As foon as he entered it, the hereditary prince and his brother, who were both dreffed in a fimilar manner to the king, put their fhoulders under the axletrec of the hind wheels, as if they were going to lift up the carriage, and remained iii that poflure, till his majefly rode on. A horfe of flate, richly caparifoned, was, led by the band I «7 ] liand before the coach. Clofi: behiad it, followed the heir appate&t» oq foot, \mdct a fambreel^ or funfhade, of ftale, and behind him, were carried three other funihades, un- der which no one went. Next canv the prince» prime minifter, but without a Jam-- brteh and after him, followed the brother of the heir apparent, and the other grandees of the court, with a numerous retinue of flaves, carrying each fome utenfil of wrought gold, for the fervice of the king, as his tobaccobox^ his l^etelbox, his fpittingpot, krifles, &c. and during the whole time, their ufual muiic was not omitted ; and the drum was beat in* ceilantly. When the king's carriage came upon the drawbridge, a gun was fired from the fort, to give notice to the people, who were aC- femble^ in great numbers on the Tafcebaan^ of the king's approach, who taking a turn, over that field, rode on to the temple. His guards were ftationed in two rows, reaching acrofs the plain to the temple, with their faces turned from the proceflion. In a little lefs than an hour, the king returned in the fame order, and with the fame ceremonies, oojy when he came near to the fort, his «4 guards, t M ] guardsi part of. whom were armed with firelocks, fired four «volleys» which were an-» fwered by a gua from the fort. Tlie king was received within the fort, by the Com» pany*s garrifon, with drums beating, and colours flying ; and thus ended the proceflion. I omitted before to mention, the reaibii why the heir apparent was not prefent, when we paid our vifit to the king. That prince was then gone out upon a party of plcafure, to the neighbouring iflands, to take the diverfion of fifliing. We fftw him en* ter the river the next day, with a retinue pf twenty-eight fmall veflels, all decorated with flags and ftreamers. That wherein his wo^ men were, was covered all round, fb that nothing could be feen within it. All thefe veflclsf were crouded with people. The prince frequently made fuch excurljons, as i was informed, but never without obtain- ing the previous permiflion pf the king, his father. In the mean time, the fupply and ihipment of pepper, went on ib rapidly, that pn thp 28th of May, my (hip received the laft of her cargo on board. This confifted of ^^01 a kbars^ or i,i2t»84o pounds of l)lack» an4 %kbars^ ( «9 ] 8 tibars^ or 3^000 pounds of whiter pepper. Every thing being ready» we weighed an* chor on the 30th of May, about four o^clock in the morning» and fet fail» iaiuting Fort Spetlwyk with thirteen guns» whence the &me number was returned» as the enfign was again hoifted from our top. The com- mandant Runouts remained on board till the nexttaorning» when he took leave of the company. Having wind and tide againft us» we anchored at noon under Pulo Baby. We were joined here, by the Company's ihips» OuderamfieU Ganzenhoef^ Cornelia Jacoba^ and Rittbemi the two firft coming from the chamber ^ Amfterdam» the third from Horn» * The adminiftratioa of the Dutcli Eaft-India Company, b, in Holhnd, dirided between fix boardsi or chwt^sl hav- «Bg leiSoii at different phce<, ntku one at Jh^trdam^ which being the moft confiderable, is called the prefidial chamber ; tfna II compofed of twenty-four direAors» of whom eighteen m chofen by the mag^ftntes of Aajhrdam^ four by the citiff ti Dmrt^ Harlem, Lefdtn^ and Gmdmf and the two others by the provincci of GiUirhmd and Priejbmdi befidea thefe« theve pre four of the chief propiiecon» who, in certain cafes» have feffion with the direétors: the chamber of MiddUbwrgb is the fecond in rank; it has thirteen direAors, twelve chofen \pf th^ cities of ZtekaJf «nd the thirteenth by the province of C 99 ] Hom^ and the laft from Delft. They had left Holland the 2d of Odober^ of the pre- ceding. of QeUerïand^ and two of the chief proprietors have feiSon with them; next, the chamber of Dtlft, hat feven direétorS| fix nominated by the regency of the town, and the feventk by the province of 0 we anchored at noon» by die ifland SeUedam^ where Mr. Van Tbts and his company left the ihip» and went up to Bataviay in boats which had been iênt thence to fetch him.' We fired a parting ialute of thirteen guns, and ftruck the enfign from the maintop. At five o^clock, p.m. we eame to an anchor under the ifland Onruji^ where the (hip was to be unloaded : the fame evening I went up to Batavia, to inforp:i the governor general of my return from Bantam^ and learnt from his excellency, that my (hip was appointed to be fcnt to Bingal^ thence to vc^ turn again to Batavia. CHAP- [ M ] CHAPTER IV, j^mlmnÊi of a new DireB^r in UnvoAh^^De^ fariurejhm Bat An a for Bbmoal.— ^ Cmet ebfirvid. — View of Oris a. — Pagodas. — Poini Palmi&as. — Banks before the Entrance of the Ganobs. — View of the yUmd Sagor. — ^Iv- GELLKE. — Fine "traas of Country. — Village called Dover. — "the Old Ganges. — Anchorage brfore FlTLTAH. On the 1 8th of July, Mr. B. V. T was appointed by the coiyicil of India, to be diredtor of the Company's trade in the king- doms of Beftgal^ Babar^ and Orixa^ in the room of Mr. G. L. V—, who had given in his relignation of that office, in order tp return to Europe ; which, however, he was direfted to do, by way of Batavia^ that he might render account to the council, of his admiriiftration. There were three other fhips going to Bengal^ but Mr. F pre* ferred to take his paffage, on board of the Snoek^ the one I commanded. Our de- parture was fixed for the 12th of Auguft» which was full a month and a half earlier than [ 96 1 ning ; providentially there was np powder ia it, at the time. On the 14th of Auguft, at funriie, we weighed anchor, and fet Éiil, with an éaft- eriy wind, direding our courfe between the point of Ontimg Java^ and the ifland JMSd^ dUburgh^ and afterward», between Mm^ Jibeneeters^ or Cannihal Ifland, and the Gre^t Combuisj or Furnace^ towards the point of Bantam. In the evening, about eight o^clock* we anchored abreaft of the bay of Bantmnf not daring to proceed farther, in this flioaly water, during the dark. At four in the morning, the next day, we again got under (ail, and came up to tiiê ifland D'wars in den JVeg^ or Middle ffie^ about noon, where the guard from the bay of Anjer came on board ; of whom wc bought fome turtles as a refrefliment. The wind remaining favourable daring the after* noon and night, we fleered for the Ifland Kraketau^ and then between Princess ifland^ and the Fiat point of Sumatra^ out to fea. At funrife, the ne^ct day, we could juft fee Princess Ifland 1 whence taking our laft ob- fcrvation, we fet our courfe, w.s.w. »$ far as [ 97 } as the eighth degree of fouth latitude, and thence fleered due weft, making much pro*- grefs, with an uniformly ftcady s.e. wind, blowing in frefli gales, till *on the 26th of Auguft, when our computed longitude was I02i degrees eaftfrom Teneriffey or full 250 leagues weft from the ftraits of SunJa, and thence we failed n.w. and afterwards north as far all the line, which we pafted on the 2d of September, On the 30th of Auguft, about half paft ' four in the morning, we faw, in the eaft- crn portion of the heavens, a comet, with a tail extended towards the w.s.w. of about eight or ten degrees in length, and Tefcm- * bliiig a feather in form. The comet ap- , peared like a ftar of the fecond magnitude, but a little hazy. Its fituation was between 0rion and taurus. Its diftance, according to a rough obfervation of Venus, was 50^ 39% and full 95 • from the fun; its exaft alti- tude above the horizon, was at that time é9^, aind its longitude 62^ 21'. ^We were, by the (hip's reckoning, in ^** 52' fouth lati- tude, and about 100^ eaft longitude. On the 14th of September, at four o'clock in the morning, I found that fince the 30th Vol, ir h of [ 9» ] of Atiguft, and thus in the fpae& of fifteen days» the comet bad approached the fun about 54^9 making fuU ji de^ees per day» After that time, 1 did not fee it again in the morning; for the Iky was remarkably hazy« and befet with clouds at the time of its rife ; and when afterwards the fky be- came clear, it was loft in the rays of the morning. In the beginning of November, we faw it again in the weft, but much paler than before ; the tail too did not ex- tend fo far to the eaft, as it had done to the weft, and (hortly afterwards it difappeared entirely. It was oa the fame 30th of Auguft, that the eaft wind failed us, and blew in a weft- crly dircftion, between w.n.w* and w.s.w. with heavy fqualls, at intervals, and thunder and lightning, till we had got two or three degrees to the north of the line, where we experienced more fteady weather. We met with many ripplings of currents hereabouts, and faw many of the birds, called cutwaters *, and likewife pintados. In li^ north latitude, we obferved» at ftm« * I^lcbof/aliiU rife^ C 99 ] rifcj a great change in the colour of the water, and immediately founded, but found no ground with a line of a hundred fathoms. In the evening, the fea refumed its natural colour. The 5th of September, we were in the la- titude of the ifland of Ceylon^ which we left juftout of fight, to the weft ward. At fun- fet, we even though^ that we caught a glimpfe of the land, but we were not at all certain about it. On the 1 2th, we again obfervcd the lea to be difcoloured, but ftill found no ground at a hundred and feventy-five fathoms. Many birds now flew near the (hip, amorig which were fbme pyl/iaarts^ or tropic- birds *, with black wings, and a few land-birds ; and in the night we heard a great noife of birds. Bemelipatnamj on the coaft of Coromandel^ wasthen,accordingtoour eftimation, n.n.w. from us, at the diftance of twenty- five leagues. The next day, we fteered due north, in order to fall in with the land, but met' with nothing, except fea and rockweed, floating upon the water. ^ PhAitm tthtrtus* H 2 On [ ioö ] On thé i4th^ we fleered for the land |i.w. under a prefs of fail, and about feven o'clock, P.M. we difcovered the cöaft of Orixa^ being the lind of Poftdy. It appears at firil with three hummocks, feparated from each other. We had then no bottom, with a line of a hundred fathoms, and found no change of colour id the water ; but in the afternoon, We fouq^d in feven ty fathoms, blulfli clay. In the evenin|f, we were abreaft of the hill of CareparCy four or five leagues from the land, and found that fince our laft oblcrvation, at Prince'^ Ifland^ we had deviated, one and twenty leagues more to the eaft, than we computed by the (hip*s reckoning. The (hore is not high* but has iandhills at intervals, between which the land appears covered with trees. In p&ffing along the coaft, two \?Lvgt. pagodas j or heathen temples, make their appearance. One of thefe is call the pagoda of Jagernète^ and equals any temple of the Gentoos in all In- doftan. Thefe pagodas are faid to contain im- menfe riches, from the innumerable con- fluence of penitents and pilgrims, who repair thither from all parts, and depofit rich pre- fent» ( lOI J ients In then)^ e^cb according *to fais abiii? ties, in order to obtain remiflion of their fins* It is further related, that the pagoda of Ja- gemfite, ^as built by a certain corsair of that name, wbo^ having ama0e4 immeniè riches by bis piratical cxcurfiQ^s^ ere<3;ed this fan6luary, a.s a comp^ifation to heave^ for his mifdeeds. The period, however» v/y^n this happened, feems to be now cnr tirely forgotten. This tenaple appears frofü the fea like a lofty, but obtufe, fleeple, while the other, has fome refemblaa^e to a two-<> maft veifel under fail. We did not get much farther the next day, on account of its falling calm ; and at iunfet, we found ourfclvcs before the mouth of the river oï Mirzapour^ about two leagues from the (hore, which had a very pleafant appearance, being every where covered with trees. Our latitude at noon had been 19^ 48' north. The following day, in the afternoon, ending that the currents, fetting to the fouthward, drove us greatly back, we were obliged to come to an anchor, in fcventeeix fathoms, full two leagues off Ihore. In the (light, we bailed ^n £ngliih fiiow» whq told «3 ^«1 [ ÏOI ] us, they eame from Calcutta^ and were bound to the coaft of CoromandeL We were obliged to remain here at an- chor, till the 1 8th of that month, when t^e force of the current was much abated, and we again fet fail, but found, ourfclves under the neceffity of working farther down, the weflcrly winds having changed, and begin- ning to blow from the eaft. We, however, were able to get to windward of Point Palmirasy in the night between the 19th and aoth, and at daybreak, coming in iight of the Dutch pilotboats, that were cruizing here to meet the (hips that were expeéled^ .we took a pilot on board. In the afternoon, we faw the high land of Ballafore^ and an- chored at funfet, before the outcrmoft bank of the Ganges. Here we could not fee the land on any fide. There are two banks, or fands, which lie to the weft ward of the weftern mouth of the Ganges^ or Hougly River, and which extend from the land, about eight or ten leagues out to fea. What is called the head, or the fouthernmoft of them, commences with the depth of ten fathoms, but (hoals fuddenly to ibur, and three and a half. Shijps Ships failing into the river, are obliged to run flraight acrofs thefe banks, the founds ings upon and between which» ferve for marks to the pilots, to find the buoys which lie in the channel, leading to the entrance of the river, by Ingellee. If in failing over a fhip runs aground, fhe is in the greatefl danger of being entirely loft. The ground is a hard fand, that ads with a flrong fudion. Thefe banks are, in confequence, never paflT- cd but at the very time of high water, and, for greater fecurity, a pilotboat always fails about half, or three quarters of a league ahead, founding, and making fignals of the depth ; while, when the pilots are of opi* nion that the water will not rife high enough, they rather keep the fhips at anchor before the banks, till they can carry them over in perfe£l fafcty»' On the 2ifl of September, at half pafl eight, p.M* the pilotboat having made the iignal that there was a fufHcient depth of water upon th^ bank, we weighed anchor, and got under faiL Our fhip drew twenty feet, and we pafTed the firfl bank in the 4epth of twenty*eight, and the fecond in U 4 twenty- [ '04 ] twenty -four feet water. At lioon, being between the two banks, we were in north latitude ii? 19^ and at four o'clock p.m. we came to an anchor in the channel» by the buoy of Boero Baiy. The next morning, about feven o'clock. We again made fail, fleering k.n.e. Atten^ we faw the ifland Sa^or^ which we left K^ on our right. This ifland is long and low, and is efleemed facred by the inhabitants of Bengalj who hold it in great veneration. A little after noon, we paflTcd the road of ƒ«- ^eliee^ and we here began to fee land on both fides of the river, having hitherto, from the ifland Sagor^ only had it on the right hand. The land is here, at the mouth of the river, very low, and on coming from fea, it is not vifible farther off than three leagues. At three o'clock we pafTed the Jennegat, which is the mofl dangerous part of the naviga- tion 5 for if a fhip have the misfortune to Arike upon one of the fhoals, that make the channel here fo narrow, it mufl be löfl ; as was the cafe two or . three years ago, with 'the Compan/s fhip, the i^^ Petronelliy of ivhich only a part of the cargo was faved, and [ «5 ] and the hull of the ihip was in a fhort time entirely fwallowed up, by the ivuftioii of the qutck-fand. At funfet, we came to an anchor before the channel of Cajaree^ where a fmall veffel came alongfide of us, by which I fent up the Com- pany's papers to Hougly. The following day, being the 23d of Sep- tember, we weighed anchor about nine o'clock P.M. and failed with the flood higher up the river,, in fix, five, and four fathom water. The water was very thick and muddy, occafioned by the rapid courfe of the river, the aflSux of which was now at the higheft. In the channel, the bottom was a foft mud, but the (hoals, which were numerous, were a hard fand. At noon, we pafled the Haze^ or Hare Channel, which has both fufficient depth and breadth to be navigable by feafliips. In 1768, the direc- tor V ■ ■ fent fome pilots, and other pro- per perfbns, to lurvey this paflage, that, in cafe of need, the Company's (hips might be carried to fea, through the fame, inftead of through the Jennegat^ and paft Ingellee ; but coming to the end of the channel, tliat entered the arm of the Ganges^ which runs by [ io6 ] by Dacca^ they conceived that the farther progrefs to fca was not advifahle to be at* tempted by the Company's (hips, by reafon of the many fandbanks, of which they had no certain knowledge ; and the examination ended here. The greateft part of the goods which are conveyed from the laftmentioned city to Hougfyj pafs through this channel*. Having proceeded thus far, the water deepened to ten and eleven fatboips, but the bottom was nothing but mud. Hitherto, the land which we had failed by^ was an uninhabited wildernefs, abounding in tigers, and other wild beafts. The banks of the river w^re moftly covered with under- wood; but beyond the Hare Channel, we began to fee a few houfes and hamlets of the Bengalefe inhabitants, fcattered along them. Inland, we beheld large level fields, fomc parts of which were cultivated ; and betweeu them were green paftures, which afforded ^ * From its fituation in the map which accompanies this relation, the channel here mentioned would feem to be that, which, in the Engltih maps, is called the Baratulla^ or CbamMl Creek^ though the circumftance of its entering the river which runs by Daccoy indicates that it mud either be, or have a com* cnunication with, what we call the Baliag^ t*fijffagt through tlm moft i ^^7 3 moft agreeable profpeól as wc (ailed by. The higher up the river we advanced, the finer the country became : at times, we faw herds of a hundred head of pattle grazing in the paftures. At three o'clock in the afternoon, we pafled a village called Daver^ where the £nglüh have built fome warehoufes, and a fadory. There is a good and fafe anchorage before it, which is much frequented by their (hips, fcveral of which we found lying here ; clofe to it, a channel, called the Shrimp Chan- nel, which runs far round into the country, falls into the river. At funfet we were obliged, by the contrary wind and tide, to come to an anchor at Buffalo Point, juft below a place which the inhabitants call Adanf s^ttmib^ and which is diftinguifhable by a delightful grove of fine trees. The wind and tide prevented us from leaving this place, till the next day, about three o'clock in the afternoon, when we fet our (ails, but did not keep them long bent, on account of a rifing thunderftorm, which was accompanied by a violent fquall, and which forced us to come to an anchor, two hours afterwards, a little below the Old Ganges^ [ loB J G^mgeSy having, the whole of the night, TOUck thunder and lightning. . The followihg day, at daybreak, we heaved the anchor, but could only loofen it^ without bringing it home to the (hip ; and* by the narrownefs of the channel, occafioned by the numerous fandbanks, as well as by the rapidity of the ftream, we were obliged to drive up with the flood, ftcrn foremoft, dragging our anchor along the bottom, and Mt icven o^clock we paffed the Old Ganges^ «s it is called by the pilots. This river (takes its rife fo far inland, that no one has, as yet, been up it, as far as its fourcc, as the pilots and other intelligent people informed me *. The place where it unites with the true Gangesy is very un&fe for veffels going up or down the river, for there are dangerous fandbanks before it, and 'the tide runs, at floodtime, with a ftrong current into it, and ebbs .equally violently * The whole courfe of the river Roopnarmn^ which is ialfely called the Old Gangesy is accurately laid down in Major Renn£ijl's Maps of Bengal \ by the* confultation 'of which, the paucity of geographical information, «refpeiSing that coiintryi in this work, may be amply fvpplied. T. - 5 out, [ »ö9 ] out. Juft before I left Bengal^ the Englifli were intending to eredl a battery of heavy cannon, on the point made by the confluence of thefe rivers, in order to command the GangeSj and to be able to prevent any veflels from coming up it. It is certain > that along the whole courfe of the river, a more fuitable fpot for this purpofc, could not be hit upon, for fliips pafling it, have enough to do to work their fails, to avoid ftriking upon tht fands, or being drawn into the Old Ganges^ and are thus wholly unable to defend them* felves from any attack. When we had paf fed this place, we came in fight of our Company's (hips lying at an- chor before Fultah^ who, as foon as they faw th« enfign flying from our top, faluted us with ftventeen guns, which we returned with fifteen. About half . paft eight o'clock, when the flood was fpent, we came to an anchor by the Lime Channel. Shortly after- wards, the equipagie meejier (comptroller of equipment) of Hougly^ came on board, to welcome the dire<5lor F— — — ; this gentle- man informed us, that an Englifh Eaft-^India. Company's (hip had, eight days ago, been Wrecked upon the feabanks, at the mojuth of the C "O 3 the river j her cargo, to the value of thirteen tons of gold ♦, was entirely loft, and only forty of the crew faved. The enfuing day, being the 26th of Sep- tember, we again got under fail, at fuurife, and anchored at nine o'clock, before Fultab^ in fix fathoms water ; we found lying here, the Company's fhips, the Cornelia Hillegonda^ Captain I. S. Ho£V£; the LaniTs-welfare^ Captain S. Both ; and the RittJbem, Captain A. Van D£r Weyde; the firfl from Europe, and the two laft from Batavia. The two firft faluted us with nineteen, and the laft with fifteen guns, and we returned a falute of nineteen. At eleven o'clock, a deputation from the Council of Hougly came on board, to congratulate the director F ■ on his arrival, and to conduö: him to Hougly^ bringing with them the Company's great budgerow^ or yacht, in which the diredor was to proceed up the river. — ^I fhall be more explicit, refpefting thefe velTels, in my obfervations on Bengal. This deputation confifled of three of the members of the council, two of whom were • A ton of gold is 100,000 gilders; thus, at /.ii. — ^per pound ftcrling, thirteen tons of gold are nearly i20,oool. T. * . accompanied [ UI ] accompanied by their ladies. They dined on board, and flayed till four o*clock in the afternoon, when they embarked with Mr, F 9 his lady, and child, in the great tüdgerowt and departed with the flood up to Hougly. At the fame time,* a falute of one- and-twenty guns was fired from my fhip, and the flag was flruck from the maintop^ followed by nineteen, fevcnteen, and fifteen guns from the other fhips, which concluded the ceremony. CHAP- i C «•» ] CHAPTER V. Pêffage up to Chinsurah — Siêg4 of that Place iy the Naboi. — Cau/fS of ibis MtfrnderfiMding.^-^ ^e Siege raifed.-^Fine ProJpe£ls along ibe G/L^QM.^-^Bengal Cof^urers and Balancers. — Vv\. V Kn.-^ExcurJion up the River. — Manner ff making Sugar. — Meeting with a Faquir^ or $aint. -^MiiTniffg of $}?ree Bodies of BengaUfe. — Account of f ome ancient Buildings. — National Vifit to the Prencb. — To tbe Englijh. — luftalment of Mr. K— . in tbe DireSorfiip. — Great Famine at Patna. — Departure frcm Chinsurah. — From 1ngell£E. — View of tbe IJland Sumatra, — . Currents. — Violent Squalls. -^ Calms. ^^Ancborage before Batavia. HE following day, in the forenoon, when Mr. F approached the Englifli fettle- ment of Calcutta^ he was faluted by nineteen guns from Fort Williamj and received the compliments of two gentlemen of the coun- cil of Calcutta^ who were deputed from the Englifli governor Verelft^ in whofe name, likewife, he was invited to dine at the fet- tlement : Mr. F— — , however, excufed hina&lf^ on account of the indifpoiition of his [ "3 ] his lady. Mr. Vsrblst had gone on purpofe to his country feat» about two hour's walk from Calcutta^ in order to receive Mr. F on his arrival» ^ ^u as he underftood that his iudgerowy was coming up the river. When he had paiTed Calcutta^ Mr. F — ■ ■ was again laluted from Fort William^ with nineteen guns. On the next day, on paffing the French faftory at Cbandernagore^ Mr. F was likewife faluted with nineteen guns; but^ inftead of deputing two members of the council to wait upon him» as the English had done, the French governor only fent a cbubdar^ or filver flafF*bearer, to welcome him on his behalf. Halfway between Cbandernagore and Hougfy, or Cbm/urüby Mr. F — — was met by the dire&or in office, who came to con* gratulate him on his arrival, with feverai budgerows} and they went up to Cbinfurêk together. Landing at Fort Guftavus^ he was faluted with twenty-one guns» from the battery at the waterfide». and received by the other members of the council ef Ibugfy at the fta^» being then carried in (late, ia palankeens^ through the great gate of the VOL. I. 2 jtox% t "4 J fort, commonly called the Lodge^ to before the direftor's houlc, while the garrifon was drawn up in two ranks, with drums beating and colours flying; and the ceremony was concluded in the evening, with an elegant fupper and ball. There being an order of the Hougly council, that all captains fhould remain on board their (hips, as long as the fpringtides continued, which commenced at the time of my arrival at Fultab^ I could not accompany Mr. F on his journey up the river ; the above particulars are, therefore, fuch as I bad occafion to learn from others. This order to the commanders of (hips, has its relation only to thofe fpringtides, which take place from the latter end of September to the beginning of November, becaufe it is during that period that the monfoon generally breaks up ; and there is great danger at that time, efpecially with fpringtides, as the ftream then nms with ihe utmoft rapidity, and the thunderftorms rage with the greateft violence. On the 3d of Odober, the Company's fliip, the Valiant, Captain Wag en no nk, arrived at Fultab^ which (hip left Batavia ten days fccfor^ mine. i That Thar day, teing the lafl of the fpringtide, I embarked at nighty on board a budgsraw^ ÏXX Cbinfurab^ and arrived the next morning at the village of Bernagore ; this is a place belonging to the Dutch £aft-India Company, which is fituated halfway between Cbinfurab and Fultab. In the evening I left Bernagore^ and arrived about nine o'clock in the morn- ing at Cbinfurab. Of thefe places I fliall fpeak more at large in my obtervations. The iame morning, the nabob of CaJJim- bazoTy or viceroy of Bengal^ had invefted the place, on the landfide, with a force of ten or twelve thoufand Moors, and all the approaches and barriers were fo clofely guarded, that no one could go in or out. This occaiiohed, in the cnfuing days, fuch a fcarcity of provifions, among the inhabi- tants of the village, that many of them pe- rilhed for want. Mothers, driven by hun- ger, and * ■ compened By flrong ncceflicy's fupremc command, brought their children to the dwellings of ^ the Europeans, and entreated leave to fell thefe innocents to flavery, for a fmall por- tion of rice, in order to prolong their own I 2 wretched t '«« ] wretched life a Htde longer* To eBoreafe the mi&iy» the fbck of pravifiona ia the place» was found to be little or none« Be* fides this blockade on the I^ndiide, the Moors had alfo befct the river» above the village» fo that nothing could be brought down by water ; and from below, there was little to be obtained. While there was any rice, leven pounds weight were fold for a rupee» but it was foon confumed. «^ peribn who» from the outfide» had contrived to throw fbme poultry over the barriers» in die hopes of gain» being caught by the Moors» had his nofe and ears inflantly cut off. The caufe of this unhappy affair was as follows : — ^The Company were bound to pay certain duties to the nabob» for the goods which were conveyed up and down the Ganges ; but the money had not been paid by the du'edor V for a coniiderabie time. The nabob» who infifted upon hav- ing them difcharged» as they were in fa£l his lawful due» iflued orders to the faupiar of Hotigly^ of whom we fhaU take further notice hereafter» «» claim the payment in the moil forcible mannen This officer ac* cordingly difpatched a tbuhdar to the di- rcöor [ "7 ] reAor V—, to require the money of liim^ . threatening withal, that in cafe it were not paid, he would not fufFer any more goods belonging to the Dutch to pa6. The di- redor took umbrage at this peremptory mcBkgt, abd after having violently abufed the poor cbuUar^ fent him to the fifeal BB Saumazse, and had him bound to the whippingpofty and unmercifully flogged* In confequence of this, the^/Sn^^sr caufed all the goods belonging to the Dutch faéfcory, which came down the Ganges^ to be de« tained, tod Cimfitmb to be invefted. The goods thua feized by the Moors, confifted in callicoes and other piece-goods^: intended for the cargoes of the fliips which were to fail for Europe in the beginning of November. Thefe vcffels w»c detained by this occurrencCf and could not now be ready in time. They were obliged to ftay in the Ganjps till the latter end of January, and were at laft forced to put to fea in an un£svourable feaibn. Ought not the mifl fortunes which thefe fhips (two of which, the Enkbmzen and the FaHant^ were lofl with all their crews; and the third, the Land^jMfftlfifre, was fiivcd with dUficulty) 1 3 met [ ïi8 ] met with, from the bad weather they had to encounter in the fbuthern latitudes, to be attributed to thefe circumftances, and to the bad management of Mr. V ? But to return to the fiege of Cbinfurab. As foon as intelligence was received of the detention of thefe goods, the direétor V thought fit to order a detachment of thirty men, under the command of an officer, to go up - the river in boats, to where the goods were lying, in order to ef- feö their releafe by force ; but upon learn- ing that a body of four hundred ;>^tfi6/> (fea- poys), or Mooriffi fbldiers, were pofted to defend them againft our attack, the expedi- tion was laid afide. Hereupon the dircöor V aflcipbled the council, and informed the members of what he had lately done ; laying at the fame time, that matters being now brought to this point, he neither dared nor could proceed farther, without the ap- probation of -the council. Some of the members replied, that fince he had pro- ceeded fo far, without their knowledge .or approbation, he might go on as he had be- gun, without their affiftance ; but the ma- jority were of opinion, that the mj^tter ought to [ "9 I to been^avcaired to be compromifed, through the mediation of t|ie Engliih. A deputation was appointed for this purpofe^ confiding of the head adminiflrator, Ross, and the comptroller of equipment. Van Braam, both members of the council ; who fo far arranged matters at Calcuttay with the £ng« lifh council, and the little nabob, or mi* nifter, Mahomed Reza Chan, who go* verned as guardian of the great nabob, who Vras a minor *^ that^ upon a promife that the duties which remained unpaid, fhould be immediately dilcharged, the goods were re- kafed, and. the blockade of Chinfurab was raifed. But inftead of this promife being fulfilled by the direöoj V , thefê arrears were ftill due, when, in the month of March the next year, he took his departure from Ben-^ gal; and the cargo of opium and other goods, intended for my (hip, would equally have been feized, had not the direftor F taken upon himfelf to be perfonally reipen- fible for this debt. • Meer Kaneyah, othcrwife Sevf al Dowlah, fccond Con of the well-known Meer Jatfier Ally Chan, a ycuth <>f fixtccn years of age. 7*. ^ I 4 This C 126 ] , ^ This laftmentioned gentleman was fo much blinded by the firft, ^d was fo eafily imprefled with whatever ideas, the other thought proper to inftil into him» that, however mudi he was warned by confi* dential and intelligent people of the evil effeéls which would reiult from his com- pliant partiality, he continued to follow the inclinations of the direéior in every thing. fie was even guilty of the additional im« prudence, of confiding to him whatever had been faid to him on the fubjed ; and he did not perceive the bad confequences of all this, till it was too late, and after the dire£tor V— had taken his leave of the Ganges. On the 1 5th of Oöober, the Moors de- parted from Cbinfurab^ and the navigation of the river upwards, was again opened. On the loth, the feftival of the Ganges had been held all along its banks, by the Bengalelc, or Gentoos, after fome prelimi- nary folemnities of three days; on which occafion, an incredible number of people came from the inland parts, to be prefent at the feflival. I (hail like wife notice it in my obfervations on Bengal^ already referred to. On [ «" ] On the 1 2th <^ Odoher» I went from Cimjurah down to my fliip» lying at Fultab. Going down, 1 landed at Strampare^ where tSie Danes have a fadory ; this is the moft ioconfiderabie European eftabliihcnent on the Gangesj confifting only, befides the village occupied by the natives^ in a few houfes in* habited 1^ Europeans. Their trade is of very little importance. The profpedfi of the country, along the banks, and on both fides of the Ganges, in going up or down the river to Fultab^ arc delightful ; but they are all furpaffed by that which offers upon paffing along the French ^ttlement at Chandernagore, upwards to- wards Clmfurah, Hougly^ and Bandel ; which laftmentioned place is juft feen in the back- ground: then the eye glances upon the buildings of Cbinfurab^ the church, the garden called ^i^^/fjfM (well-fituated), with diree ftoue terraces, raifed one above the other, and where every thing that is of ftone is whitened. Groves of ever-verdant trees appear behind, and, between thefe, buildings. In their front, the river, covered with fmall veffels and boats. A little lower, on the right hand, Cbandernagore, which is built aU [ 122 ] all along the river, and is embelliflied with many handfome houfes. Before it, the fhips at anchor, aqd moored with cables to the ihore. On the left hand, fertile fields, and extcnfivc meadows, affording pafturc to numerous herds of cattle, and interfperied with pleafant groves and coppices. The whole forming a moft intcrefting landfcape. Farther down, about halfway between Cbandernagore and Serampore^ is a place called Garetti. Here, on the fame fide with Cban^ dernagorCj the French governor has built a noble houfe, or rather a palace, and has laid out an extenfive and pleafant garden. And in this neighbourhood, the £nglifh have a mi- litary pofl, where often one thoufand men, and fometimes more, arc encamped. The whole of this country is flat, jufl: as in our provinces. It is interfered and fer- tilized by numerous channels, creeks, and rivulets. Bengal is juflly eflccmed the moft fruitful part of Afia. Approaciiing Calcutta^ many gardens, newly laid out by the Englifh, make their appearance, which have handfome dwelling- houfès, with an agreeable profpeól towards the [ "3 ] the river. Calcutta, which is built on the left fide in going down, about three quar- ters of an hour's walk along the banks of the river, makes likewife a very pleafing appearance. Before it, the fhips lie at an* chor, juft as before Cbandemagort^ in great numbers. There are almoft c\try day vef- fels which go to, and come from, every part of In4ia, in motion here ; which greatly en- livens the fcene. A little below Calcutta, ftands a ftrong fortrefs, called Fort William, which, built upon the banks of the river, commands it entirely. From this place to Fultab there are many Bengal villages interfperfed, ibme of which are very large. On the 13th of Oftober, I reached my ihip, lying in Fultab road, and ftayed fbme time on board. I occaiionally went on fhore in the evening, when the heat of the day was over, to take a walk; and often amufed myfelf with feeing the tricks of the conjurefrs, and ferpent-charmers. The former for furpafs, in my opinion, thofe of Europe. There were hkewife balancers, who had a bamboo' pole of twenty or twenty-five feet in lengthy perpendicularly rcAing on their girdle. [ '24 ] girdle, without touching it with their hands. A young girl of feven or eight years old, laying hold of it, clambered up to the top, where (he laid berfelf on her belly, and throwing her arms and legs loofe, ièemed to fwim in the air; while the man kept running backwards and forwards, with the pole, always without touching it with his handg. In about feven minutes, the girl clambered down again, and. performed a number of other tricks. But on this fubjeól more hereafter. Fultab is a pretty large village, fituated on the left bank of the Ganges^ going down the river. The fifcal of Cbinfurab keeps one of his officers here, to have an eye upon the illicit or fmuggling trade, that is, in fuch cafes, when matters have not been fettled betimes with the fifcal, and a proper confideration made for his connivance. The anchorage here is fafe enough, when the breaking-up of the monfoons is not ac- companied with violent hurricanes, for then it is very dangerous ; which is, indeed, the cafe all up the Ganges. Ships lie here like- wife proteéled from the fwell of the fca, which fometimes, when the tide rifes, is ^ elevated [ ««5 ] elevated to fix and more feet in height, and rolls in with great violeace, tearing the (hips which it overtakes, from their anchor- age, or breaking their cables, and dafhing them againO; the ihore, or the iandbanks. This fwell never runs along the Fultah fide, but only along the oppofitc ihore. The bot- tom is a tough clay, in which th^ anchors often, hold fb faft, that they cannot fome« times be weighed, and the cables break in the attempt. When it happens, however, that the Company's ftiips lie a whole year in th? river, they are then carried up to Cbinfurab for fbme months, as was done in the year 1 768, with refpeö to the Valiant. On the 17 th, the Company's fliip E^i- buizeHf arrived in Fultab road. She had left Batavia before me, but had touched at the Coaft of Coromandel. Her Captain L F. Stout, had died on the paffage. This (hip was intended to be diipatched to Eu- rope. On the 1 8th, 1 received a letter from the direftor F — r-> informing me, that my fliip was appointed to fall to Batavia^ by way of Coromandei, and that I was to fail in the lat- ter end of December» The [ «« ] The next day I again left the (hip for CbinJiiraA, which I reached the fame even-> ing. On the 20th of Oftober, a Bengalefe wo- man was buried, with her dcceafed hufband, alive^ and on the 25th of November, an- other was burnt with the body of her huf- band ; but of both thefe barbarous rites, I fliall give the details in my beforementioned obfervations. The fliip, the Snoei, which I had hitherto commanded, being now judged too old, to attempt the palfage to Europe, I exchanged, with the confent of the direöor and council, for that of Captain Hoeve, the Cornelia Hillegonda. This gentleman took the com- mand of the Enkbuizen, by which I had at firft intended to have gone, but being ad- vifed to the contrary, in order that I might take another trip to Batavia^ whither the Cornelia Hillegonda was bound, I chofe this laft. My firft lieutenant A. Van Es, was promoted to the command of the Snoek i and the feveral changes took place on the 17th of November. On the 3d of December, we dropped down from Fultab to Ingellee^ at the mouth I of [ ï«7 3 of the river, together with the Enkbuizertf the Valiant^ the Land's-welfarej and the Snoekj which laft failed on the 29th of Dc- cember, for the coaft of ConmumdeL There being very little of importance for me to do at prefent, in the Company*s fer- vice, I emplo3red my leifure-time, in making fbme little excuriions inland, or to the £ng« lifli and French faöories. I like wife went a- hunting of foxes, jackals, and other wild animals, plenty of which are to be met with a little way inland ; but the Bengalefe do not like to fee this, for it. is contrary to the precepts of their religion to kill any thing which has life. Their objeftions, however, have no weight, as they never can mufter jRifficient courage to oppo£b an European. On the 5th of January, 1770, the Englifli governor Verelst, leaving the prelidency, paffed Fultabj where two of our fliips were lying at anchor, without receiving any falutc from either of them,, which was always cuf- tomary. This afforded matter of great fur* prize to Mr. Verelst, as he had done all honour to Mr* F , when this laft paffed Calcutta^ as we have before feen. He fent one of his, fervants on board of the Ihips, to inquire [ •»« 1 > inquire of the commaading officefs, whether they had not received direSions from the diredor V , or the council of Hougfy to fire the accuftomed falute ? which they an* fwered in the negative* The Bng^iih go- vernment» complained in ftrong expreffions of this behaviour ; but were anfwered on the part of the direélor V—**, that this was in retaliation of a fimilar afiront^ which he had received from HAr. Verslst on a na« tional vifit to Calcutta. On* the 14th of January» my mooring cable broke loofe, but by the vigilance of my firft lieutenant» we met with no damage» In the following night» however» the ihip Rittbem met with the fame accident» and ran. aground on a fiuidbank. Being fully loaden» the cargo was obliged to be un- ihipped» and (he was not got afloat again in a fortnight; yet ihe did not fuffer conddera- ble damage. On the 29th and 30th» the £/rij6ttrzM» the Valiant^ and the Lamts-^welfare^ failed from the road of Ingelletj for Europe* On the 31ft» my fhip» and the Rittbem^ left Fultabj and proceeded to IngeUeCy there to remain till the time of failing. The rea- 5 fon [ 129 ] fon why (hips do not tarry at Fultab fo long, is only becaufe the water of the Ganges be- comes too (hallow in this feafon, fo that the Jenegat is dangerous to be paifed. Thefe veiTels came to an anchor in Ingellee road, on the 7th of February, under command of the two firft lieutenants. In the mean time, I took another journey up the Ganges^ and inland, in company with . two of my friends, to view the country, and purfue the diverfion of hunting. On the 27th of January, we left Chinfu- rab^ in a budgerow^ at three * o'clock in the afternoon, going up the river with the tide, and before the wind; and about half paft four we came to the Channel of Niafferai^ where wc went on fhore, and up the country. Here we met with pleafant plains of arable and pafture land, intermixed with groves of co- coanut, furi, mango, and other trees. The fugarcane was likewife cultivated in many places, and flouriflied luxuriantly. We likewife obferved, the manner in» which tlie inhabitants make their fugar, which is very fimple, the whole procefs going on in the open air, without much trouble. VOL. I. K They C «30 J They hruifc the cane, between two chain^ fered rollers of bard wood, two and a half feet long, and of about fix inche» in diameter. Thefe lie horizontally, one above the other, 10 two refts, {o fixed, that the rollers cannot be moved, out of their relative pofition to each other, and leaving a fpace of a quarter of an inch between them. £ach roller has four fpokcs, or handles, at the end, by wliich they are turned in oppofite dircélions, by two men. The fugarcane being put between the rollers, is thus bruifed, or flattened, to the thicknefs of a quarter of an inch, asd its fap is prefTed out, and received in a large earthen pot, placed for that purpofc, under this fimple machinery. About eight or tea feet off, are eight other pots, fixed in holes, into which they fit cxaöly, ai^d which are made in the earth in a longitudinal direéüou. The dried canes, from which the fap has been exprcfïcd, are ufed as fuel under thefe pots, into which the fap is put, and boiled into fiigar. The country hereabouts,abounda in jackals and wild dogs, fome of which we (hot. At night we went up higher, with the tide, and came at five o'clock in the nK>rn- ing [ Ï3I 1 ing, to the channel of Chogdab, which' lies on the right fide of the river in going up (that of Niafferai is on the left), about eight or ten Dutch mifes above Cbmfurab. The village, which gives its name to the chan*- nel, {lands a little inland. There is a great weekly market, or iazar^ as it is called by the Bengalefe, held here, where all kinds of provifions, and other' goods, the produce of the country, are expofed to fale. The chan- nel terminates about three Dutch miles in- land. On its kft fide^ and upwards, the whol© is flat land, without any trees ; but on the right hand downwards, are many woods, in which there are tigers and other wild bcafts. We croflfed a number of fields, without feöng any thing like a tiger ; but on en- tering the woods a little way, we fbon met with their traces in plenty, and we did not therefore think it prudent to venture far- ther in ; for this animal feldom fhews it- fclf, before it can fpring upon its prey, and when once within the reach of its claws, nothing can lave a man's life. We like- wife met in the way, the remains of a Ben- galefe, who had been torn in pieces by the K 2 beafts C '3^ ] bcafts of prey. For the reft, tbc hunting of jackals and wild dogs was not unpleafant. In the afternoon» we failed higher up the Ganges^ to a place called Gouptipara,which is about fix or eight Dutch miles above Chogdab. In our way, we paifed a pretty large ifland, lying in the middle of the river, but which produced nothing but a little tall grafs, and fome reeds. We found here that the flood only lafted three hours, while the ebb continued nine. About four or five Dutch miles higher, as the Bengalefe, and others who had been at CaJJimbazary informed us, there was no floods except a little in fpring- tides. It was late in the evening before we ar* rived at Gouptipara, At daybreak, the next morning, we went on (hore, and found, about a quarter of an hour's walk from the river, a little village. Somewhat higher there was a wood of lofty trees, with much underwood, in xwhich there was a great number of monkeys, and the wood was therefore named the monkey-wood. Thefe animals were about the fize of a fpaniel, with long tails, which, when they ran, they turned upwards. The body was covered , t , with with hair, of a grey colour, and the fore part of the head was black. As foon as we had fired one (hot, they all ran up the high trees, and Ibme of them threw their young ones, which they held between their fbre paws; into the buihes below ; and what- ever pains we beftowed in looking for them, we could not find them. The large ones fprang with an inconceivable quickneis, from branch to branch, and from tree to tree. We (hot fome of them, and when the others faw thefe &11, they fet up a moft horrid cry. The Bengalefe were much difpleafed at this, and defired us not to kill any more of thefe animals ; for their fuperftitious belief in the tranfmigration of fouls after death, makes them think that thefe creatures,^ in particular, are the receptacles of human fbuk. Somewhat farther inland, we met with the ruins of a (lonebuilding, in which a /agutTy or faint, had taken up his abode. He fat by a flow fire, in the middle of the a(hes, entirely naked. His hair was black, and very long, tangled and clodded with a(hes and dirt, with which it was ftrewed. K3 He [ '34 ] He had impofed a fingulaV penance upon bimfclf, confifting in a brafs ring, about the thicknefs of a quill, and three inches in diameter, which was pafled through the fub- fiance of the glans of the penis, though in fuch a manner, that the urethr» remained \]nhurt. While we were with him» a Ben- gal woman, in the fuperftitious hope of thereby becoming fruitful, came to kifs this dilgufting mortal, on the part which wa» fuppofed to poflefs the prolific virtue re-^ quired. We put many queftions to him, on the fubjeft of what we faw, but decency for- bids the recital of his anfwers. Befides, this ring, there were three other riveted iron- rings linked to it, wbic^h altogether, might weigh, a$ we guefled, about tWo pounds and a half. When he walked, he let the whole hang loofe, without feeming to be in the lead incommoded. Thofe who torture themfelves in this ex- traordinary manner, are held in great vene- ration by the vulgar. Many of thefe^^W wander about the country, and never need to be folicitous about their maintenance; for the fuperiUtion of the people, makes them even think it a great happinefs to be allonred to [ '35 3 to give thefe iau&ified beggars, who torture their bodies fb unmercifully, ibr the love o£ religion, every thing ^eceflary to their fub* fiftance. I refer the reader, for a more ample account of this, to my obfervationson BengaL In the afternoon, we returned from the woods, on board of our iudgerov^ and went again down the Ganges. Here we found its banks every where very fleep, and in {oano places {o deeply hollowed, or undermined by the water, that parts of them, to the fize of a houfe, had ibmetimes fallen in, which we could fee had happened in feveral places. At funfet, arriving at the channel of Cbogdab^ we ran into it for fhelter during the night, apprehending that we (hould be overtaken by a thunderftorm, as the wind began to rife, and the Iky appeared dread* fully black and lowering. We failened our kt^gfroWf with ropes, to both fides of the channel, becaufe thefe veiTels are eaiily over** fet by the wind, not having any iupport cu- boid on the water, on account of their flat bottoms. Before the ftorm came on, we took a K 4 walk L '36 j walk along the banks^ and faw three bo- rdics of Bcngalefe burnt. This is done by the relations of the deceafed» or by his fons, if he have any. They fit upon their heels, round the burning pile, fmoaking their ^dr- gofj and feed the fire, with the greateft in- difference, as if they were burning a beafl:, ilrewing the afhes afterwards in the Ganges. The bodies of thofc, who do not leave pro- perty enough to purchafe firewood for this purpofe, or whofe relations are poor, arc expofed by the riverfide, to be devoured by the jackals, and other wild animals. Thefe, likewife, as foon as it begins to grow dark, iffue out of the woods, and come to the the river, howling dreadfully all night long, while they alfo fight with each other for their prey. Some of them are often found lying dead in the morning, efpecially the wild dogs, who are not a match for the jackals. . We were obliged to defift from our walk, on account of its falling dark ; and we were warned by a Bengalefe, that there were many tigers,who had their haunts not far from us, ahd who in the evening were wont to repair to ifae riverfide* The [ Ï37 ] Thte ftorm came on about eight o'clock^ and burft all around with tremendous force. The thunder was very violent, and the light- ning lb fierce, and (hot in fuch broad flaflies along the ground, that the whole neighbour* hood feemed to be on fire. This was ac* companied with fuch heavy fqualls^ that we durft not remain on board our veflêl,but went on (hore, and flood in the open air, though expofed to all the inclemency of the weather. The florm did not abate till eleven o'clock at night. At midnight, we left the channel, and fell down the river with the ebb, but about an hour before daybreak, we were again obliged to feek for ihelter, in the channel of Niafferat,z,% the wind began again to blow hard. As fbon as the day broke, we went oa fhore, in order to walk overland to Terbonee^ whither we ordered our budgirow^ to wait for us there. The way led firft through an extenfive wood^ which was filled with all kinds of birds, and afterwards over a level plain, moftly confifting of paflure-grounds. About an hour before we came to Terbcnee^ we en- tered [ '38 ] tcrcd another wood» into which, having ad- vanced a little, we met with an ancieat building, of large fquare ftoncs, which feem* cd as hard as iron ; for whatever pains we tooki we could not, with a hammer, break any pieces off. The building was an oblong fquare» thirty feet in length, and twenty in breadth. The walls were thirteen or fourteen feet in height. It had no roof, and withink, were three tombs, four feet above the ground, made of a blackifli kind of fh)ne, and polifh* ed, with here and there fome Perfian cha- ra^ers engraved upon them. The Bengalefe believe, that this was built by a great magician, in one night, without the afïïftance of any mortal hand. About forty paces farther, was a large, but very ruinous building, the roof of which con- iifted in five domes, or cupolas, which had been adorned with fculptured imagery, but which was much obliterated. The Bengalefe could not inform us of the purpofe, or time, of the ere&ion, but it now ferved as a refidence for faquirs^ ibme of whom we (aw fitting in it. About ten o'clock, we came to the mouth of the channel, where we found our veffel, and went down the river to Cbinfurab. On [ ^39 ] Oa the 2 2d of February, the direfior V— and fbme members of the counciU accom* panied by their ladies, paid a national vilit to the French governor, to which party I was likewife invited. Thefe vifits are made annually, from one fettlement, or faftory, to the other, at the commencement of the year, or whenever a new governor, or direftor, enters upon his government. Much ceremony is obferved, when the vifits are received at the place where the fadory itfelf is fituated ; and therefore Mr. V had intimated to the French go- vernor, that he ihould prefer waiting upon him for this purpofe, at his country-feat, near Garetti. In the afternoon, at four o^clock, we fet off in fix carriages, and reached Garetti at fix, where the diredor V ■ ' . ■, and Mr. F , who was likewife one of the party, were received at the bot- tom of the fteps afeending to the houfe, by the French governor, and condu&ed into a large ialooh, in which the principal ladies and gentlemen of Cbandemagore were a(^ fembled. About feven o'clock, the com- pany were invited by the governor, to be fpe^ators [ 140 ] Ipeftators of a play, which fome amateurs were to perform, in a flight building, which had been ereded for that purpofe. When the play was ,over, which was about ten o'clock, we were led into a large room, and were entertained with an elegant ♦ Ibpper, to which upwards of an hundred guefts, both ladies and gentlemen, fat down. At. one o'clock we took our leave, and rode back to Cbinfurab. The national vifit to the Englifli, to which I was alfo invited, was appointed to be paid on the 26th of the fame month. This was chiefly intended to congratulate the new Englilh governor, Cartier, upon his ap- pointment. We were eight of us, who were prcfent at the vifit; and at four o'clock in the after- noon, we went from the direólor's houfe to the quay, where the Company's great bud^ gerow was lying ready. The garrifon was drawn up in two ranks, within the fort, and a detachment, confifting of an officer and twenty-four privates, marched before us, which was to accompany us, as an efcort, and to ferve as a body-guard to the diredkor. As foon as our bud^erwv put off from the (hore. [ H» ] (here, a falutc of twenty-one guns was fired from the battery. Every one of the com*, pany had his own veffel to pafs the night in, but in the day*time, we were all on board of that of the direöor^ in which there was a room where fix and thirty people could (it down to table. At the maflhead of the direflor*s budgerowy there was a Prince of Orange's flag *, with the arms of the ynion» and thofe of the other vefTels carried a prince's pendant. Befides ours, there were feveral other veC- fels, iin which the foldiers and fervants were embarked; two that were to be ufed as kitchens, the viéluals being drefled on board of them ; and two as ftorefhips, to carry the proviuons. There were, in all, thirty-three veffels of different fizes, which formed a pleafing fight when they were all together. In the evening, at half pafl eight o'clock, when the ebb began to fail, we came to an anchor, with our flotilla, a little below Se- rampore. * The Prinjhjlag^ or Prince of Grangers flag, is the name given by the Dutch feamen to the naval enfign of the United Provinces, and the fame that is iHU the national flagi being thfte horizontal firipes, red, white, and blue. T. At I Ml ] At four o'clock on the following morning, tipon the turning of the tide, we again pro- ceeded downwards, and at feven, wc came to Cbitpóre, fituated about a Dutch milo: above Calcutta^ where wc flopped for the deputies from the Engliih council, who were to come to receive the direöor and his company. Half an hour afterwards they arrived, and paid a vifit of welcome to the direftor, in his budgero'w. The chief of them was the fecond in command at Calcutta^ Mr. RussEL. After a ftay of about a quarter of an hour, they coiidu£led the direftor oh fhore ; and, followed by the rc?ft of the company, they en- tered a handfbme fummer-houfe, clofe to the river, which belonged to Mr. Russel. We found breakfaft prepared for us here, and after flopping about an hour, we left this place, in five coaches, fent by the go- vernor for that purpofe. Six of his life-^ guards on horfeback, drefTed in blue, with gold-lace, rode by the fide pf the coach in which the direftor was. At ten o'clock wc were fet down in Cakutta^ at the houfe pre- pared for the reception of the direöorV . It was a very handfbme building, provided I with t U3 ] with many and roomy apartments, all fur-* nilhed in the European ftyle» and hting with damafked filk. It was the property of the little nabob» or minifter, Mahomed Reza Chan, who had purchafed it of an Eng- liih gentleman, for 1 20,000 rupees, and al- ways refided in it when he was at Calcutta ; but as he was not now in the place, the Englifh government had made ufe of it. On the area, before it, ftood a company of eighty fcapoys, under arms, commanded by an Eu- ropean officer, as a guard, in honour of our diredor ; which continued to do duty as fuch all the while he remained at Calcutta. When the direftor alighted before the houfe, a falute of nineteen guns was fired from Fort frU/iam. . As (boa as we had entered the houfe, the diredor difpatched one of his cbuhdars^ with a meflage to the Engliih go- vernor, who refided in the government- houfe, next to that in which we were, to enquire if it were ciHivenient for his Excel- lency for us to wait upon him in a body. Soon after, however, came that gentleman himfelf, accompanied by all the members of the council pf Calcutta^ to welcome the dircöon C '44 3 dtreöön After the firft complimentary cc* remonies were over, Mr. V faid, that the obje£l of this national vifit, was to con- gratulate Mr. Cartier upon his acceflion to the governorfhip, adding, as a particular compliment, that he hoped Mr. Cartier would fo well manage affairs, as to be able to return to Europe in a few years ; to which that gentleman replied with a fmile, and ex- prefled his thanks by an amicable interchange of civilities. Thefe compliments were made and re- turned, by the direöor in French, and by the governor in Englifli, the latter not un-. derftanding French, nor the formep Englifli, while Mr. Russel performed the office of interpreter. This vifit of ceremony Ufted more than an hour. The governor then departed, with, the gentlemen of the council. Half an hour. afterwards, the director V went with us to pay a vifit of ceremony in return, to the governor, which lafted about three quarters of an hour ; at the conclufion of which he conducted us out, accompanying us to the fteps, in the fame way as the director had done upon receiving his vifit juft before. 5 About [ H5 ] . About half paft twelve o'clock, having been formally invited to dinner by the go- vernor, we went .again to the government- houfe. Here we found, in a large and airy faloon, a table of fixty or feventy covers. The fer- vice was entirely of plate. The direftor was feated at the upper end, on the right hand of the governor, having, on the other fide, the general of the Englilh land-forces, being the third perfon in the council of Calcutta^ or rather the fecond, exclufive of the governor. Thb other gentlemen in company, were placed promifcuoufly at ta- ble. Full half of the guefts were officers of the troops, for whom the governor keeps every day open houfe. When the cloth was taken a^fay, a booka^ which is a glafs filled with water, through which the fmoke of tobacc;o is drawn, and of which I Ihall fpeak further, was fet be- fore every one of the company, and after having' fmoked for half an hour, we all role from table, and feparated each to his re* fpeöive dwelling. . The converfation was carried on at table, in a free and unconftrained mannej?^ with- voL. I. L out C '46 ] out the company being under an^ fear or reftraint, from the prefence of the governor^ or of other great men* The fpirit of liberty, which. animates a Briton in his own country^ is reprelfed as little here, as there. This freedom and eafe, is diametrically oppofite to the flifF and obnoxious formality, which takes place at Batavia^ in the company of the governor gei>cral, and the counfellors of India. Indeed^ an Englifhman could never brook the infupportable arrogance, with which the Dutch Eaft- India Company'^ fervants are treated by their fuperiors, as well at Batavia^ as at the out-fa£lories. It would be well, if this conduö remained folely confined to the Afiatic regions, which gave birth to i t^ but^ unfortunately, we fee it continued by purfe-proud individuals, wher^ they return to a country, where, from- the mod ancient times, it is known to be m perfefl: contradiflilon to the genius and tem- per of the inhabitants. It is certain that thi» is one realbn, why there are fb few to be met with, who ferve the Company with fidelity^ or a {ci\(^ of honour. Every one attends folely to the main bufinefs, of welt and fpcedilr lining his purfe j and all look to the time,. i [ '*7 ) time^ ^hen thcy (hall be able to withdraw themfêlves, from the iniblent domhiion of an arbitrary government, againft which little or nothing can be faid or done. At fix opdoek in the evening, Mr. Car* TifeR came to fetch the director V and . his company, to take a ride to his country--» feat, Behederij about two Dutch miles from Calcutta^ where we were entertained with an excellent concert, performed by fomc amateurs, and an elegant fupper. About twelve o'clock at night, we rode back to Calcutta. The next morning, at nine o'clock, the governor came again to pay a vifit to Mr. V , and made Iwm an invitation to din* ner, and to a grand ball, which, was to be given in the evening, at the courthoufe. Hither we went, at fevcn o'clock, and the ball was opened by Mrs. Cartier and Mr. V . The company were very numerous, and all magnificently dreffed, cfpecially • the la- dies, who were decorated with immenfc quantities of jewels. A collation was fervcd in an adjoining apartment, and the whole X. 2 was [ U8 ] was Conduöed with great elegance, laftiiig till tke next morning. This day being appointed for us to fet oflF on our return to Chinfurahy we went at nine o'clock in the noorning, with the di- reöor, to take leave of Mr. Cartier, and the other gentlemen who had been to fee us, and dined at Mr. Russel's, whence We took our departure, about half paft three in the afternoon, in coaches, for Cbitpore^ where our little fleet was lying, ready to receive us* The direélor was faluted, on leaving the place, as he had been on his arrival, with nineteen guns from Fort William. The fix lifeguards of the governor, who always ac- companied Mr. V , when he went out, while he flayed, did not leave us till wc came to Chitpore^ where he gave them a handfome prefent in money, as he had done to all the fervants of the governor who had attended him, which altogether amounted to full a thoufand rupees, or fifteen hundred gilders. The fame deputies who had come to Cbitpore, to receive Mr. V— — , condu^fted him [ H9 ] him again on board his budgerow. We de- parted hence, at funfct, with the floodtide, upwards, and reached Garetti early the next morning, where we were received by Mr. Chevalier, at his country-houfe, and took our breakfaft with him. We found here the carriages of the direöor V » — » ready to carry us to Cbinfurab. At nine o'clock, we rode from Garetti to Cbandeanagore ; and after having paid ibme vifit» in that place, we proceeded to Cbin- /tif^hy where we alighted before the houfo of the diredtor F -, under a falute of twenty-one guns from the battery. Thence the direftor V led us to his own houfe in the lodge, where we found all the mem- bers of the council, aflembled to meet him ; and were entertained at dinner by Mr. F — . On the 8th of March, Mr. F was formally announced, as direftor of the Com- pany's trade in the kingdoms of Bengal^ Ba^ kar^ and Orixa^ by Mr. V— — =^, who had fixed his departure to be eight days after- wards. On this occafion, all the fervants of the company, from the higheft to the loweft, afiemt^led, at fbven o'clock in the mornings ;, 3 ' at [ '50.] at the houfc of Mr* V—, where a coftly breakfaft was provided for them. The wives of thofe who were married, were equally prefent. The garrifon was under arms, in the court-yard, within the lodge. About nine o'clock, both the diredors, with all the members of the council, afcend- cd the platform, over the landgate, where the commiflion given to Mr. F - by the council of India at Batavia^ was read aloucl by the fecretary, after which a difcharge was made, of three voUies by the military^ and one-and-twenty guwj by the battery. Returned to the council-chamber, the commiflion was again read, and Mr. V ■ addreifed Mr. F ■ , and the members of the council, in a fpeech, by which he af^ fured that gentleman, of his fatisfai^ion, that the time was now come, when he was relieved from the heavy burden of an office, which he had filled for upwards of five years, during which period he had promoted, as much as his humble abilities admitted, the intereft of the company ; and adding, that his fatisfadion was greatly increaied, by having to refign his government into the bands of a moft worthy fucceflbr, and his fincere ( «51 ] iiücere fricni To this Speech, Mr. F - replied by another, couched ia the moft po- lite term$, aud in which he was not (paring ia panegyrics of Mr. V——, and of his lady. The whole ceremony was concluded in the evening, by a ball, given by Mr. F , in the garden of Welgelegen. The following day, the direflors received a letter from Patna^ which is a large city in the kingdom of Babar^ about ninety leagues diftant from Cbinfurah, where the Company have a fadory, for the opium and . (altpetre trade, informing them, that the ra» vages of famine were there io great, that hundreds of Indians periihed daily for want of food ; (o that our people avoided going out of the lodge, in order npt to behold the mife- ry of thefe wretched inhabitants, who lay dy- ing in crouds, along the ftreets and highways, merely for want of nourifhment. The fur- vivors began even to attempt fatisfying their craving hunger, with the flelh of the dead, in order to preferve their own exiftence. In this inflance, the obfervation, that nature overcomes precept, was forcibly verified; for thefe poor, fuperftitious heathens, into L 4 whom. [ »52 3 whom, from their childhood, an abhorrence of every kind of animal food is inftillcd, and more efpecially with refpe^l to human fleih, on account of their belief in the trao^ migration of fouls, now fought to prolong their miferable exiftence a little while, by devouring the flefh of their fellow-creatures. The dire efFefts of famine too were felt in Bengal. At Cbinfuraby 3, woman, taking her two fmall children in her arms, plunged into the Ganges^ and drowned herfelf, not poflefling, or being able to procure, any thing to fatisfy the raging hunger of her tender offspring. The banks of the river were covered with dying people ; fome of whom, unable to defend themfelves, though ftill alive, were devoured by the jackals. This happened even in the town of Chinfu^ rah itfelf, where a poor fick Bengalefe, who had laid himfelf down in the ft reet, without any affiftance being offered to him by any body, ' was attacked in the night by the jackals, and devoured alive ; and though he had ftrength enough to cr,y out for help, no one would leave his own abode, to deliver the poor wretch, who was found, in the morning, dtfad, and half-devoured. The [ 153 ] The Bcngalcfe will feldotn aflift each other, unlefs thoy happen to be friends, or relations, and then the fervice that they ren- der, only confifts in carrying the fufFercr to the water of the Ganges^ to let him die there, or be carried away by the ftrea^n, and refign his breath in its waves ; for they all tnift, that by this means, they will be purified from moft of their fins, and their fouls be tranflated into the body of an happier creature. This dreadful calamity was occafioned, partly by the failure of the rice-harveft, the preceding year, but it may chiefly be attri- buted, to the monopoly which the Englifli had made of the rice, which was reaped the feafon before, and which they now held at fo high a price, that the natives^ moft of whom could earn no more than one, or one and a half, ftiver (penny) per day, out of which they had to maintain a wife and children, could not buy, for this trifle of money, the tenth part of the rice they wanted, the con- fequences of which were, that whole fami- lies perifhed miferably. The evil was augmented by another icourge, almoft equally calamitous, the fmall- pox. [ «54 ] pox, which attacked people of all ages, aud brought many to the grave. This added to the contagion which had already contaminated the air, through the number of half-putrified bodies which lay unburiedy or unburn t, along the banks of the river; hence the mortality encreaied more and more, especially after my having left Bengal. The direöor F— ^ died of the fmall-pox, in the month of May enfuing, as I was informed, juft before my departure from Batavia. The heat of the weather now likewife augmented, from day to day, fb that at noon it equalled, and fometimes (iirpafled, the warmth of the blood: men and animals could fcarcely breathe; and, although the heat was conüderably lefs within doors, than in the open air, it was, neverthelefe, fcarcely fupportable to me, and to every one, who had not been ufed to it. Water was poured, fhom time to time, upon the ftenes of the court-yards round the houfes, which afforded a momentary coolneis, but it foon vanifhed before the fcorching rays of the fun. The water taken out of the Ganges^ differed only eight 'or ten degrees in warmth, from the air in i 'SS ] in tb: (hade where my thermometer hung ; this flood, in the latter end of the month, at 104^, and, when I took the tube in my hand, the mercury fell to 98*^ ; whence it appeared, that the heat of the outward air, furpaffed that of the blood, by 6^- ^On thé. 15th of March, which was the day on which the direftor V was to leave CAin/urab, for the road of Ingellee^ where 'the (hip Rittbem lay ready to convey him to Batavia^ all the Company's fervants afTembled anew, with their wives, early in the morning) at the direftor's houfc, in order to take leave of him and his family, and to wi(h them a profperous voyage; for that gen- tleman thought himfelf of too much confe« ^uence to go to them himfelf, to take leave. This condudfc was ftrongly contrafted with that of Mr. Faillbfert : when he left the colony, although he enjoyed the dignity of counfellcr of India, his affability, and other virtues, endeared his memory, as well to the fcrvants of the Company, and to the other Europeans fettled in Bengal^ as to. the nativo inhabitants. It was exaéUy the reverfe in tJie inftance I am ipeaking of, Mr. V ■ ■■ Ving equally detefted by them alL I At [ «56 ] At eight o'clock, the keys of the lodge, ar fort, were brought in by an officer, upon a filver waiter, and were delivered by the direftor V , to his fucceflbr in the direc* torftiip, Mr. F . A few minutes afterwards. Having taken bis leave of all the perfons prefent,. on which occafion the complimentary parade was even accompanied by tears, either of genuine re- gret, or of hypocritical afFeélation, Mr. V left the houfe and the lodge with his family ; he was conduced by^ the whole affembly to the quay, where the buigerows were lying in readinefs. On the way, he fcattered fome money from his palankeen, * among the Indians ^ and was faluted, when he left the fhore, by one-and-twenty guns from the battery. Mr. F , with feveral other ladies and gentlemen, intending to ac* company Mr. V-. down to Fultab^ in- vited me to go with them, which I the more willingly did, having fome affairs of my own to tranfaft at Calcutta^ where the diredlor and his company were to ftop two days, be-^ fore they proceeded to Fultab. We arrived the next rnorning at that place, where the direöors'^were faluted with nine? teen [ 157 3 teen guns from Fort William. We were all fumptuoufly entertained at dinner, by the Englifli governor, and invited in the even- ing, to be ipeélators at a play, which, as at Cbandernagore^ was performed by fome ama- teurs, in a houfe ereéled for that purpofb. A little before the conclufion of the perform- ance, Mr. F received a letter from Cbinfurab\ informing him, that his lady was at the poinf of death ; whereupon that gen- tleman refblved to return the fame night to Chinfuraby and requefted me to accompany him. Having done what I wanted for myfelf, at Calcutta^ I was glad to return again to Cbinfurahy as the time was faft approaching, when I was to leave the Ganges ^ and befides, _ the company I was with, was not the «noft agreeable to me. At midnight, after having fupped with the governor, we departed up the river in Mn F 's budgerawy and reached Chinfurah at feven o'clock in the morning, where Mr. F was received with a falute of one- and- twenty guns. Mrs. F died on the a7th of March, and was interred, with great pomp, on the 5 29th. S9th. Her hufband belonged to the frater^ nity of free-mafons, and all the brethren, and the wives of fuch aa were married, wore the mourning of the order, which confided in a black ribbon hanging on the breaft, with the infignia of the order pendent from it. The departure of my (hip was/ in- the mean time, put off from day to day, becaufe the papers which were to be 'conveyed to Batavia by her, were not yet in readinefs. This was chiefly occafioned, by the negli* gence with which the affairs of the Company had been managed, during the latter part of the adminiftration of the direöor V ; and I was of opinion that this was defigncdly done, in order that> if forced to ftay too long in Bengal^ I might be neceflitated to take my paflffge through the Straits of Malacca^ in which cafe, there would be no poilibility of toy reaching Batavia^ iboner than the middle of November; and even if the monfbon changed earlier than ufual, I (hould be obliged to remain in the Ganges till the next feafbn ; (b that he would have had an opportunity of failing for Europe, before the papers, which were to come by my (hip, would have reach- ed Batavia^ and which h» was conicious would ( «59 1 would contain very ierious matter, that \irould be of great prejudice to him, and, sa eonfequence of the appearance of which, he mrould be obliged to remain in India, to ren-> der an account of his adminiftration. His fears on this head were, in fad, realized, for I was fortunate enough to reach the cafntal in time. At laft thefe papers were got ready, and, on the 3 1 ft of May, they were delivered to me by the fecrctftry of police ; at the fame time I received the difpatches for the governor general, from the diredor F— — -. Thi* gentleman endeavoured to perfuade me to fhiy that night at Cbmfurab^ being fearful that I fhould be overtaken by a thunderftorm, which feemed to he brewing over us ; but having nothing in view, but to make all pof- fible fpeed to leave the Ganges^ before the bad feafbn, which was very near at hand, fhould fet in, I left Cbmfuraby the fame evening, in a btidgeroHc. It was when we were before Cbandema^ gore J that the florm burft upon us, with loud thunder, and tremendous flaihes of light-* ning, and the wind blew fb hard from the fouth, that it was with difficulty we could [ i6o ] get to Garetii^ where we anchored at mkl« night. Thé following day, rowing down the ri- ver with the ebb-tide, we pafled Calcutta^ in the forenoon» and at two o'clock in the af- ternoon, we flopped for the tide, at a place which we call the Boter-tol^ or Butter-toll-^ boufe^ arid found ourfelvcs under the neceflity of lying here all night, on account of the vio- lent foutherly wind. We fell down again the n«xt day, with the ebb, but made but little progrefs, as wc had a pretty high ga]^ from the fouth, and were not able to advance farther thaa Rajapore^ which is one Dutch mile and a half above Fultab. At eight o'clock, a.m. on the 3d of April, we arrived at Fultab. Stopping here, we found a floop, with the allowance of fpirits for my -ihip. At qine o'clock, another ar- rived with a part of my cargo, and which had to take an anchor on board, for my fliip, in the place of one that had been broken. Befides this, there were more goods intended to form part of my cargo, which had been put on board of fmall veffels, but which were not of a fufBcient fize to navigate the river t I^I ] H ver hnhtr down, in this advanced fcafbil of the year, and had therefore remained lèveral days waiting for a floop, in which they might relhip their cargoes« Fortunately one arrived at night, into which the goods were all put. The cargo, however, was ftiir in- complete; fome part of it beingyet expedcd from above, but I had no inclination to Aay longer for it. I accordingly put ofF at nine o'clock, A.M. with the three floops, in one of which I embarked, and fent .my budgerow back to Chinfurab. At two, p.m. we an- chored before the Garnaale Spruit^ or Shrimp Channel, whence we fet fail again in the evening, anchoring at one o'clock in the night,' about half a Dutch mile below Dover. The next morning, at nine o'clock, we again got under fail, and proceeded downwards, anchoring at three, p.m. by the Haze Spruit j or Hare Channel, and at three the next morning, before the channel of Cajoree. On the 6th, about nine o'clock, p.m. we again got under weigh, and came on board of my (hip, the Cornelia Hillegonday in the road of Ingellee^ at noon. We immediately occupied ourfelves with (hipping the goods conveyed by the (loops, VOL, I. M which C i<« ] which took us apthe reioaiaing part of that dajy and part of the next. As fbon as I came on board» the pilot who was to have charge of the (hip cot to {csL, informed me^ that he was very averüb to undertake it, as the inoü£boa was already changed, and we had to exped bad weather every day ; and that if we were overtaken by it while we were between the banks, the fliip .would certainly run the greateft daoger of being loft. Howt:ver, after a fmall pre* iënt had infufed fome courage into him, he proinÜèd to make the trial, provided I ;irait* ed no longer for die reft of the car^ which was ftill expeéted from Cbin/urabf tQ which I agreed ; and thereupon calling the ftiip's council together *, we were unanimoufly of opinion, ^The captains of ihips in the fervice of the Dutch Eafl» India Company, are obBged, by their articles, to confuit their lieutenants lefpeéting the courfe to be (leered ; and if they cat^not agree, a council is to be fummoned, confiding of the five principal officers on board, including the captain, where the matter is decided by a majority of rotes* This council likewife, takes cognizance of whatever, not relating diredly to the navigation of the ihipi may be called extraordinary cir» cumftances ; and determines, among other things, refpefting the dipfiinution, or increafe» of the allowance to the crew 5 the touching tt «ny places for reparation, or refreihment; the time [163] opinion, that it was more for the advantage of the Company to leave what ftill remain- ed behind, of the cargo, than to incur the rifk of being obliged to ftay with the ihip in the Gangesj till the next feafon. On the 8th of April, every thing being ready, we weighed, and fell down in the af- ternoon with the ebb, anchoring in the even- ing, clofe by a buoy, upon a ridge of fand that (hoots ftraight athwart the pailage. Weighing again with the beginning of the ebb, we worked farther down, againfl the t.w. winds^ till on the lOth, we got fafe without the banks, and into the ópen iea. By d]e pilot, who left us at midnight, I fent Ibme letters up to Cbmfurab. We were now apprehenfive, that, as we bad to expeft nothing but fouth-wefterly winds, and oMr intended courfe was direft footh, in order to get above the Andaman zxA. Nicobar Iflands, we fliould be forced below them, and thereby likewife fall to leeward of the point oi Acbem^ the north weft end of Sumatra ; in which cafe, nothing would re- time to be pafled there, &c. as per art. III. IV. V. and VL of the Eaft*India Company's Artikd-^rief, or articles of en* {asementi entered into by the perfons in their employ. ?*• M 2 main [ «64 ], main for us, than to pafs through the flraits of Malacca to Batavia^ and thereby coniiderably lengthen the duration of our voyage. But our fears were fortunately, in this inftance, not realifed. We paffed to the windward of thofe iflands, fo as not to fee them. ; , . On the 3d of May, we found ourfelves in the north latitude of 7*^, which is that of the fouthefnmoft of the Nicobar Iflands. Hav- ing, therefore, got beyond thefe, we enter- tained hopes of a fpeedy profecution of our voyage round Sumatra. The fudden fqualls, or whirlwinds, which came upon us almofl every day, were our chief hindrance; thejr often rufhed on us fo unexpeöedly, that wc had fcarce fufficient time to take m our üiils ; they were ufually fuccecdèd by dead calms, which lafted the . remainder of the day ; and we were hereby greatly impeded in our progrefs. Very uncxpedledly, at daybreak, on the icth of May, being in the north latitude of four degrees and a half, we difcovered the ifland Sumatra, not far from the point of Acheen. '/ ' ' We had obfervcd feme figns of land for a few few days before, namely, we had feen pieces of wood and bamboo floating on tKe water ; but we flattered ourfelves that thefè came from the Nicobar Iflands. We now found that the currents, which muft have only fet to the northeaftward, after our paffing thofe iflands (for had they driven us before in au eafterly diredion, we muft have run in ^ light of them), had carried us full thirty» three leagues towards the eaft. -We were, by computation, four leagues and a half off (hore, when we made the knd. It appeared to the eaft like fmall iflands, but more northerly, like connected land, with high mountains inward. Fortunately, we were fifteen or twenty leagues to windward of the point oi Acheen\ for had we fallen clofe in with it, or to lee- ward of it, we (hould, for^certain, have loft the opportunity of pafling round Sumatra. Wc yet ran fome danger of being driven to leeward, from the continual calms, and the ftrong currents, which fometimes fet to the north, and fometimes to the foutheaft. Frequently, when we were driving along, in a dead calm, i had the boat hoifted out, in Older. to obferve the courfeof the current. M 3 For For this purpofe, a heavy grapnel was h£- tened in a hirge tub» and attached to a coil of ropC) that was long enough to let dowA this apparatus, fix or feven hundred fathoma below the furface of the fêa ; and as there was no current at that depth, the boat lay» as it were, at anchor, and bore up with its bead to the current. In order, in the next place to aUcertain the exad direéUon and de- gree of rapidity of the current, one of our fweeps was taken, the leaf of which was painted white, a wei^t was faftened to the other end, fb as to make it ftand upright ifi the water, with the white part five or üx feet above the furface. To this end, a log- line was attached, in order to fee how fiir the fweep would be driven away from the boat, by the current, in a given time, to be obferved by a flop-watch, and towards what point of the compafs, having one with us in the boat, for that purpofe. In the fpace of five minutes, I found that the fweep was driven by the current, in the dire^ion of north by wefl, to a diflance of two hundred and twenty*fix R^ineland feet Irom the boat, which may be efliraated to make about three leagues in four*and-twenty hours* t 1^ ) lioiifs« This was the refult of our esiperi- ittebt die firft dayt but in the following dzys^ we found the currents fet to the northeaft^ at the rate of five or* fix leagues in twenty-» four hours* But not having always an opportunity of hoifting out the boat^ I eauftd a lead of ibventy pounds in weighty to be let down by the ibunding^lmet to the depth of eighty or ninety £ithoms^ and fattening an empty caft to it, which held up the lead» and was kept ftationary by it» the ihip drove away from it, by the current i for ihe had no other ino« tion^, cm account of the calm. We found by this» that the currents fet more to the eaft, and ibutheaft» every day ; and on the 15th c^ May, we iucceeded in gettkig off i^om the ihóre, which we loft fight of that day, at noon. We now purfued our voyage with leis apprehenfion,«yet we made no greater pro-» grels than before» by the continual calms» which were only interrupted by fudden whirlwinds» of an hour or two in duration *• ^ From the freqiieiicy óf thefe ludden fquall% in the aeigbbottrhood of &mtr«, the Portu|ucfe firft, and afterwards the Sngliih feamen» have firen them the name of the ifland, Sod catt thcm^n^ii^ T. . *J^ On C '«8 ] On the ï 5th of May, the lün rofc, during an cclipfe, which was then full twö-thirds compktcd. I oblcrved the end of the cclipfe, fifty-cight miinites, and thirty fe- conds after fijt o'clock : this was to have been at Chandernagorej at thirty minutes paft fix ; thus, the difference of time, be* tween that place, and where we were, was 28' 30" ; or 7*^ 8' longitude, that we were to the eaftward of Cbandern^gore^ whofe longi* tude we knew was 105^ 1' eaft from Tene^ riffe^ and our eftimation was 1 1 1 *^ 95'; hence we found that we were eleven leagues more to the eaflward than by the fhip's reckoning. The day before we had paflfed the line to the fouthward/ On the 29th of that month, we m^,.and hailed, the Eafl-India Company's Ihip, Dui^ nenburg^ Captain John Verkeek, fromr the coafl of Mallabar ; fhe had left Cochin on the 4th, and was equally t)ound to £^- tavia. We failed in company, till the 4th of June, when we left her behind, andlofl fight of her. « The following days, we faw many figus of land, as rockweed, bamboos, large pieces of wood, and a fpecies of red blubber, or nuflhfca^ floating [1^9 .] floating on the water ; likewife feveral land- birds, and a number €>f white and yellow tropic birds. Sometimes whole trees float- ed by the (hip, with their branches and roots» yet frefh and uninjured. We coa-. eluded, that all this came from the iflahd Engdno ; fer when we ftood to\Vards Suma- tra, we met with hardly any of them. On the lotji of Junfe, we again faw the ifland of Sumatra , and the high hill of SiU lehar^ which lies near Bencoolen, and we found that we were thirty-fix leagues more to the weftward, than by the fhip*s reckonings The ibutheafterly winds, now blo*.ving very hard along the weft coaft, we were obliged to work up againft the wind, to- wards the (Iraits of Sunda^ and it was not before the 20th of June, that we came abreaft of the Flat Pointy and Prince's Ifland ; and on the 25th we anchored in the bay of Anjer ^ whence we fet fail the next day, and arrived in fafety, in the road of Batavia^ on the 2d of July, having had no more than four men dead, during the voyage. CHAP* t 170 1 CHAPTER VI. Jfyfointmem rf thi Cêmmêdéte tf the bcmeivétd vab^r^thwuUrfiêrm.^ Arrival tf tbe Eudeavmrg Q^am Cook» fr^m tb$ S^nib Seas.^^Jit9iiMi êf an OtabeüoM, hrougbi to Batavia by tbéUShip. — Tbank/giving, Fajl, and Prajer Hctf.^—Jjp tf , the homeward Fleet. — Departure from Batati A« --^The Reef ef A-SGVihLAs. — View of tbe Land itfAttiiCA. — Anchorage at Robbsv i/land. lS ibon as I came on fhore, I found that my ihip had, the fame mornings been ap-* pointed to return to Europe, as forerunner ♦ of the fleet, for the chamber of Enkbuizen. But going the fame evening to give an ac- count of my Bengal voyage, to the governor general Van D£r Parka, bis e:KceUency * The homeward-bouDd Dutch £aft-India Compuiy's fliips, are divided aC BiUavio^ into tw# fleets, one of which generally leaves IimUs towards the «nd of the year, the odier fome months afterwards ; and fome dajrs bdbre the deptmtre of each, a fingle fliip fails for Europe, which is called the «MTSKfrUir, or forerunner. Except, however, in war*time» thefe (hips feldom fail, or keep together, though they ufually rendesvoiM at the Cé^ ofGnd Hêfi. T. K told [ '7t ] told me, it would be better for me, that I ihould return to Europe^ in a large (hip of a hundred and fifty feet, for the chamber of jtmfterdam, than in a fmall vefiel, like the Cornelia Hilkgrnda^ for a chamber of lefs coofequence. On this account, the next day, in the council of India, the command was given to me, of the ihip, V Huts ter Mye^ being one of a hundred and fifty feet» and which was bound for the chamber of Amfterdam. At the iame time, the com« mandant, and upper comptroller of equip«« ment of Batavia^ Anthony Vooelzano» was appointed commodore of the homeward fleet ; but this gentleman dying foon after» "Captain Frsdbeick Kklger, of the (hip Krwmenburg^ was appointed in his ftead *. On the 1 5th of July, I took over the com- mand of the fhip, V Huts ter Mye^ from. Captain Hartz, and three days afterwards, • The comauuid of the fleet \% given to the fenior captain, unlefii when a paflènfer of higher rank, in the Company's ftnrice (for all perfians in their employ, whether in a civil, a ipval^ or military ftation, have their refpeAive ra;.k&), happeni 10 be returning to Europe, and then the paflenger, whether ho Se in a naval, or in a civil capacity, is appointed the commo« 4o«e, and the ihip he goei by, becomes' the flag-lbip. 7. I gave [ »72 ] I gave up to Captain AIartin Lab a a if, that of the Cornelia Hilkgonda. On the 17th of September, at about hair paft five in the morning, juft as the day be- gan to break, the (hock of an earthquake was- felt at Batavia^ which lafted full two minutes, but did not do much damage. The water in the canals toiling to and fro with impetuofity, feemed, by its agitation, as if boiling. . Whatever was pendent in the houfes, like chandeliers and glafs lanthorns, was in motiorl for three quarters of an hour afterwards. All the clocks, both within and without the city, the pendulums oi which ofcillated eaft ^id weft, ftood ftill ; but thofe that hung to the north and fbuth, were not afFeöed. A clock which was in the houle I was in, ftood ftill atthirty-two minutes paft five. - On the 1 8 th and 19 th, there was a great feftival of the Chinefe, inftituted as an in- terccffion for their ficki In the evening, one or more bamboos, having feveral lan- thorns hanging at the top, were ftuck up before every houfe, which made a pretty appearance, ia the Chinefe campon^ .ojf fuburb. This [ Ï73 3 This was followed, on the- 9th of Odo-' ber, by a grand fefliyal, in. honour of. their Joafy'ej or jofs *, to whom they oiFer a num-^ ber of coftly prefcnts ; they made likewiie a large veflel of paper, and combuftiblq mat- ter, which was highly adorned with flags, and fet it on fire in the evening, letting it drive out to fea, where it was very foon; confumcd. This is only what I have heard related, being myfelf, at that time, .at the ifland Onruji. In the evening and on the night .of the nth of Oftober, we had a violent thundcjf* ftorm, which did no harm in the city, but in the road, the lightning, fell, about eiglu o'clock, upon the (hip the Admiral de Ruiter. The mainmort, maintopmaft, and topgall'ant- maft, together with their yards and fails, and the foretopfail, and yards, were (hi- vered all to piece?, and the wreck of them . * The images which the Chlnefe worfliip, are cMcéjoó/Ijê by the Dutchy and jofs by the En^iiih feamen. The latter w evidently a corruption of the fornier, which being a Dutch nickname for the devil, w^s probably given to thefe idols b^ the Dutch who firfl faw them, either from their hideous «p^ pearance, or from the principle that ail idolatry is demons olatry. On no better ground than this, the authors of tho Univerfal Hiftory, accufe the Chlnefe of worihipping the devil, knowingly and ^#/tfr/«. T, .1 lay [ '7* 1 laf tipott the quarter-deck, to the height of fifteen feet *. A longitudinal fiflure was likewiie made in the quarter-^leck, but no foul on board was hurt, nor was there any damage done to any of the other veiTeis in the road» A few days before this event, the Engliih ihtp, the Endeavour^ commanded by Captain Cook, had arrived in the road of Batawu This vcflcl came from the Pacific Ocean, and had been twenty-feven months from England, having thus far circumnavigated the globe, from the eafl. They had with them an Indian» whom they iaid was a native of a country which they had difcovered in the • Captain Cook, who was then at Bmimvi^ in the Enét^ «MKT bark, as noticed in the next paragrapbf rehtes this in- ddcmti exaAly as above, and adds, <^ (he had an iron fpindle ^ at the nfudn-top-gallant maft-head, which probably direAcd «< the ftroke. This fliip laj not more than the diflaoce of ^ tivo cables* length from our's, and in all probability we ^ (hotild have (bared the fame fate^ but for the ekftrical ** chain, which we had jufl got up, and which conduced ^ the lightning over the fide of the ihips but though we ^ efcaped the lightning, the explofion (hook us like an earth* ^ quake, the chain at the fame time appearing like a line of ** fire : a centinel was in the action of charging his piece, and ^ the (hock forced the mufquet out of his hand, and broke •• the rammer-rod." Hawkefworth's Voyages, Vol. IV. page 341, oAavo edition, f. South [ 'IS ] South Sea, but they would not reveal where it was fituated. This Indian was of a mid* dling iize, rather fat than otherwife» of a dark brown colour, and with long and thick hair, which hung half way down his back ; it was looie, and of a jetty black ; it grew low down upon his forehead. His beard was likewife black, of a middling, length, and uncut, contrary to the cuftom of moil Orientals ; the nails of his hands were long; his countenance feemed fbrrowfxil, and his di4K)fition timorous. His drefs confifted of 9 large piece of white cloth, which was thrown oyer the ihoulders, and which ap«* peared to mé to be made of the bark of trees» The Englifh gentlemen^ with whom be came, and who had likewife a Swedifli naturalUl; Dr. Solandbr, with them, {aid that they ucderftood his language ; but when they coaverfed with him^ it fèemed to m« that it was moftly done by figos. He would not eat of any thing that was fet before him; and ccHi^tioually caft his eyes on all fides aromid him, exprefling the greateft ailomfh*% ment at what he faw and heard ^. We nn- derftooi^ 9 Tül»iA, the Otaheitaii here dluded lo^ irho accoiQ» piouod Capuin Coos, as £ur as Batavia^ died there, tbt follow* ing [ 176 ] tferilood from the Engltfli, that they had fiayed eight months at that ifland, which they called Otaheite^ and that all the na- tives refemblcd the one they had brought away. A thanfgivingi faft, and prayer day, was held at Batavia^ ow the 17th of Odober. Xhis fblemnity takes place every year juft before the departure of the return-fleet, for Holland, being partly inftituted in order to iiippHcate heaven to grant them a prolpcr- ous voyage. A fermon is preached on that day, on 'board of the flag-fhip, in the road^ at which all the commanders of the vef&ls there, with part of their crews, are prefent* . On the 24th, the governor general went^ with a great retinue, on board of the (hip Kroonenburg^ in order to inftal the common dore of the homeward fleet, Frederick Kbloer. For this purpofe, all the (hips jng mopth. The reader of Lieut. Cook*s voyage, who will have flfQngly interefted himfelf for this amiable Indian, will fcarcely recognize him in the piélurc here drawn of him ; but the rapid progrefs of a bilious diftemper, which poor Tüpx a labpurcd under, during the latter part of the voyage, and the applroaohes of death in a flrange land, are not adapted to give, citijcr an expreiïion of pWfure to the countenance, or of fortitude to the mind. T^ which [ ^71 ] which lay m the road, were ranged in tWo lines» with the old admiral-ihip next to the river, and that of the commodore, the outei*- mofl. This was done in order that the governor general, pafling between the lines, might have an opportunity of taking a vie^ of every Ihip, at his eafe. His «excelfency came in a great barge, which was richly glut, and had a pavilion, with glafs win- dows at the poop. The chief of the ma- rine, and fome other gentlemen, were with him. The upper comptroller of equipment ftood before the pavilion, and commanded the rowers. As foon as his excellency came on board of the (hip Kfoomnburg^ ^ btoad pendant was hoiftéd above the enlign, at the maintop, while the old admiral-fhip ftruck her flag, and fired a falute of twenty- one guns. Eight captains flood upon the ihip's ladder, as his excellency alcended, and all the others who belonged to the home- ward fleet, were on the quarter-deck, toge- ther with the vice-commodore, to receive him. Under the awning, a breakfaft was got ready for the governor general, and af- ter he had taken fome refre(hment, the commodore's commiflion was read by the VOL. I. . N fccrctary T »78 J fccrctary of the governor, and his excellency then commanded the captains of the fleet» to obey the commodore, on their voyage to Europe. About half an hour afterwards» the governor general returned on ihorc* Upon his leaving the (hip Kroonenburgy he was ialuted with twenty-one guns, the broad pendant and enfign were both ftruck, and the commodore^s flag hoifted in their ftead^ The (hips that compofed the firft diviflon of the homeward fleet, were as follows : for the Chamber of Jm/terdam^ the Kromiefdurg^ Com. F&bdbkicx Kblgbr: the Niano RboQn^ Capt.JoHN Hbvdbicks: the rwMg Litunif ; • • Hekry db Habt: the Bms ter Mye, • • • J. Spliktbr Stavobivüs : the Wnjldmn, • • » Mich. Godfubt Lbhmav: foiZidUmd: the Duinetthwg^ Capt. Johk Vbbhebkb: the Toung Samuel^ Capt. Petbk Akglevorsts for Delft: the Lady dtÊtwftta Cwradinm: ibr Rotterdam : the Flujbmgt Capt Jacob 't Hart: for Urn : the Ridderkerk^ Capt. Pbtba Vah Pbotbn: and for Enkbmzen: the Cmelia HiUegonda^ Capt. Mabtin Labaan. The [ ';9 1 The laflxnentioned had failed for tlolland^ on the 20th of Odober^ as forerunner of the fleet, and the two firft followed on the 25th ; while the others had to flop^ for a fhip which was daily expeded from the coaft of Ctr^mandely in order to take over the bales of piece-goods £he was to bring» and thea to receive the complement of their cargoes in pepper. This veffel reached the road of Batavia three days afterwards, and the re- ihipment of the goods (he brought, took place immediately ; after which, the fhips. failed to the ifland Onruji^ to take in pepper» On the 3d of November, the water-bailiff came on board, to mufler the crew, which was found to confifl of one hundred and eight feamen, eigèt fbldiers, four mechanics, four paflengers, and one man, who was fent back to Europe, being unfit for the Com* pany's fervice. On the 5th of November, we got the lafl of our pepper on board, and, together with the commanders of the fhips, the Young Liivenj the Young Samuel^ and the LadyAn^ ttmetta Cmradina^ having ^ceiyed our final ' N 2 difpatches düpatches from the governor general, we Jeft the ifland Onrujij on the iame day, and auchcred the next a&ernoon, at three o^clocky ki the bay of Anjer. The Young Lüven^ atnd my (hip, having ftill fbmc water to re- ceive on board, remained here at anchor tiÜ the 9th, when we failed in the morning, and at Bight we cleared Jthe ftraits of SunJa^ znd got out to fea. The two other (hips had failed the day before. On the loth, at noon, we took our laft obfervation of Princess Ifland, and in the af- ternoon, we lofl: fight of Java^ and ftcered^ firft s.vjr. till in the Ibuth latitude of 9% where we were fure of meeting with the fettled foutheafterly tradewind, and thence we direéled our courfe w.s.w. As foon as we were out at fea> we found that our fliip was very leaky. We made eighteen inches water every watch, fo that we were obliged to keep the pumps Cbn* tinually at work. However narrowly we fearched, we could not find where the leak was, till about a month afterwards ; when we accidentally difcovered that there was a hole in the bow, on the larboard (ide, two feet fcct under water. The carpenter contrived, "With ipuch difficulty, to ram in a wooden plug on the outfide ; for wc could not get at it within the ihip. This reduced the in- road of the water by one-half ^ but the leak vras by no means flopped, and our pumps were frequently choaked by the pepper, and wc were forced to lift them out, to clear them again. The day after wc were out at fea, we loft fight of the Young Ueven^ which fliip outfailed us by full one-third, although Captain Hart and I had agreed to keep in company. On the 17th, at five o'clock, p.m. we iaw a fblar eclipfe, but we could take ao obfervation of its beginning, for the fun was, at that time, obfcured by clouds ; neither could we oblerve the end, for the fun fet at fix o'clock, before the eclipfe was over. Wc proceeded pleafantly on our voyage, wkh the foutheaft tradewiud, which carried us quickly on, and paffing the tropic of Capricorn to the ibuth, on the 28th of No- vember, we computed oh the 7th of De- cember, that wc were abreafl of the Kland V 3 Madagajcar. I l22 ] Madagafcar. Wc perceived alfa, fevcral iigns of land,. and faw much red blubber boating on the water. Hence we fleered weft by ibuth, to the latitude of 34^^$ and thence due weft, towards the reef of An^ guillas. The fbutheaft tradewind began to ihift in the fouth latitude of 26^, and we met with variable winds, which were, however, very favourable. The compaftes fliewed the greateft variation of 25* and z6^ N.w. be^ tween 62^ and 50^ eaft longitude ; and far^ ther to the weft, the variation began gra^ dually to decreafe. On the 2ift of December, we obferved a change in the colour of the water, from a clear blue, to dark green, and a high iba rolled in from the s,w. Thefe were indica^ tions that we were near the reef of An^ guilias ; and at funfet, we founded in ieventy fathoms, grey fand with fhells. This reef ftrctches out from the conti* nent, as far as 36^ ibuth latitude, and per«* haps farther, but the foundings are, in ibme places, thereabouts, two hundred fathomat By the depth» and the nature of the bottom ppon the reef, you may know whether you %V9 [ 'h ] are to the eaftward, or to the weftward of Cape AnguU/as. To the eaftward; the ground is hard, and to the weftward, foft, loofe mud, with a much greater depth ; fo that having pafTed the cape to the weft, you get out of foimdings by degrees. The heavy feas, that are occafioned by the ftorms, which are fo frequently met with, on the retff, make it a very dangerous part of the navigation, and the Company have loft, in confequence, many fliips; efpe- cially of the fecond diviiion, or thofe that come upon the reef in the months of April and May, at which time the weather is the moft ftormy. Ships going to the Cape of Good Hope cannot avoid pafling over the Tcef^ in order to be certain of their longi- tude, and not to overflioot the cape. -Oa account, however, of the danger attending it, orders were given by the Company, in the years 1767 and 1768, for their (hips, which paffed here in that time of the year, to haul in upon the outfide of the reef, in order to afcertain their fituation, and rec- tify their eftimation ; but on meeting with ibundings, then to ftand direöly fbuth, in order to run round the reef, without touch- W4 ing E 184 ] iiig at the Cape of Good H'^pe ; b\it ir\ftead Cjt that, to touch at St. Helen^^ for refrefli* ment. This mode, however, proved to b^ attended with worfe conlequences ; and all their fhips are accordingly again allowed to touch at the Cape of Good Hope^ except the lajft Ihipf which refreChes at St. Helenaj, Qn the 23d of December, we had, at noop, a glimpfe of the lan4 of Africa^ ^Hit loon loft fight of it, nor coyld we, o;p jac* count of the baziuefs of the weather, 4i^ tinguilh what pa;'t of it we hj?4 feen. On the 25th, we faw it. again, with a clear fky, in 34^ 57' fouth latitude. The kiid appeared with a deep inlet, or bay, ijt\e: weft point 'of which floped down into, the fea ; and behind it we faw high rug^?4 muuntains, fituated fur inland. The beach wa? very low and faiidy. To the jQort|x^ lyere fome irregular white eminences, re? fembling chg^ljchills ; and a little nïore tp the esiftward, we faw a hill, fprmipg a rjegub lar arch. We could fee land to the weft^ ward, fr.o.m the mafthead, appearing like two round huma)oc]j:s. We law a thiclf fmoke riling inland ; heace we concluded, that we wer,e hpfpr? Vkejcb^ or flejh Bay, 5 In In the night, and part of the fbllowuig day, we had a ftorm from the weft ward, with B, hsgh fea^ which ftrained the fhip very much. This wefterly wind continue^ till tKe Zóth^ when it came round to the s.£« gad the next day we ran in fight of Cape des jingiMlfl^^ and the fteep headland of jS^'oDaZ:^:. This lalt is very remarkabje, and ftews like Portland Point in the Britilh Channel. Reétifying our eftimation here, we found that lince our laijt obfervation, at Princi% lAaudyWe were 3^ 9^ or 39 leagyi^, more to the wcftwafd, itban. by the Chip's reckoniiig« At the lame t^ne we faw a large ihip to th^ northward, which we loft fight of in the evening ; we afterwards found that ihe was the Young Lieven^ v^ho had left the ftraits of Sunda/in company with us. The tt«xt day, being. the 30th of Decem- ber, we found ourfelves, at funrife; abrcaft of Fa/fe Bay, and fteered our courfe for'Ttf- ^/e Bay. At noon we were in fight of the Lion*s Mountain^ for which we fteered ; and afterwards for Sandhill Point ; before, how- ever, we got fb far, we were becalmed un- der the hion's-bead^ and we could not ftecr the fhip^ while it blew a ftorm from the foutheaft. [ i86 ] fbuthcaft, a quarter of a league from us. Af- ter having been becalmed about half an hour^ we got a breeze, which ibon carried us <^ ihore ; but Asaching Sandhill Point» it en« creafed to fuch a ftifF gale, and was accom- panied with fuch violent fqualls, falling down from the mountains, that we found it im- poffiblc to work into the road ; and we ac- cordingly refblved to run for Robben^ or Seai {{land, and anchor under it. We caft an- chor in the road of this ifland, in fifteen fa- thoms, (andy bottom, and found lying here the ^\^Young Lieven^ which had reached the anchorage three hours before us. CHAP- t ««7 i CHAPTER VIL JnAwragi in Table Bay. ^^Dèparture /rm tbê Cape op Good Hop e.-*-^^w ij/* St.Hxlbna^ — Of AscBMsiON yiémd. — Tbe GraJs-Jea.^^AMi^ malcula fmnd in the Jhdting Seaweed. — Ccuncil beid h the Cmmcdore.^Pafage to the Weft of the AzoRBs. — Narraiive of a Womm^ wbo bad enlifted as a Soldier. — Meeting .with the cruifing Frigates off Lizard Point. — Arrival at the Tbzel» , * %^N the following day, in the morning, the Company's officer, Rationed on the Ifland, came on board» and brought refrefli-» mentB for the crew, confifting of 'twelve iheep and fome vegetables. This is the allowance delivered to every Company's fhip, that anchors at the ifland. On the I ft of January 177 if the wind veering, in the morning, to the n.w. we weighed anchor, together with the Young léieven, and fteered for the road ; \fXLt when we were' about a quarter of a league from the anchoring-ground, the fbutheaft wih the Fhtjhivg^ on the 131115 ïind the Duinfniurg^. qn the 3^^. Thisl^fth^^d, fonje öf»e be- fore, anchored under Roèhn Iflan^, but her cabJe breaking, in a gale of wipd^ flie jbad bean driven put to fea. , , After a ft^y of fyll five weeks, jluring which the (rews partook of the yfiwl re- £re^hm«Rt^ of jthe place, fix of the fhip9 belonging to the homeward fleets one of wfeich was the cooamodore's, received or- ders to j&U for Holland. Thefe w«re, the Kroonenèurg^ Krwieréjxrgy the Huis ter Mye^tklit Toung Samuely the Léêdy Antonefta C&nraJina, the Plujhingy and tbe llidderkerk i the Corne/ié Hi/kganda^ bad failed on the loth of Janu-« ^Tjy as forerunner. On the 7th of February, we receivedf our final difpatches from the govcrhór of the Cfl^r óf Good Hope^ together with orders, to keep in company with the coiïimodore. We, however» Ifty ftill, till the 9th, tó the violence of the fbufheaft wind prevented 2saj of the ihips from weighing till then* On th^ day we all fet fail, and about noon we got out of the bay, and each of the fhips ialuting the commodore with eleven gii!ls^ we fteered to the w.n.w. At fünfet, we took our laft obfervation of the land of Africay the ^able Mountain^ bearing s.b. fen leagues off*. The next day, at noon, we changed our courfe to n.w, by (ignal from the com- modore, and fleered for the latitude of the ifland of St. Helena. Our (hip was now perfeftly tight. The leak, which we had difcovered at fea, had been repaired at the Cape. We found under the (heathing, a feam in the (hip's fide, that was was entirely open^ Co that it Was A gnat iiap^^ pinefs that the (heathing was but little da« maged ; for» if this had been wholly gone^ where the fèam lay that was open» we ihould have had much difficulty to keep the fiiip above water. We did not perceive the lead leakinefsy during the remainder of the. voyage, and were not once obliged to pump, from the Cape to the Channel. The favourable wind, with which we had left the road of the Cape, ibon brought ' us into the (butheaft tradewind ; with which we ran in fight of the ifland St. He^ hnaj on the 26th of February. This ifland, which lies in the ibuth lati« tude of 1 6®, and full ij* eaft longitude frotn the meridian of Teneriffej is high, and moun- tainous, and has a barren appearance, in paffing by. The Engliih have taken pof- ieflion of it, and eftabliflied it, for a place of refreshment, for their £aft-Indiamen. Our ibips, likewife, in cafe of neceffity, ibmetimes touch there. « Lofing fight of St. Helena^ the following morning, we continued to fleer n.w. and on the 5th of March, we made the ifland Afcenfim^ and failed clofe under it4 The L i9i 3 The 'latitude of this iiland Is about 8^ ibuth, and lts longitude 4i^ : it is alio high and mountainous, yet not fo much fo as St. Helena; it is^ like wife, fmaller in cir-* cuoiference. It is uninhabited, and per« £c€t\y ilerile, being almofl: nothing but a bare rock. It, however, affords freih wa* ter, though the waterbg-placc is difficult of accefs. The beach abounds, in turtles, who lay their eggs in the fand, in order to be hatched by the heat of the fun* The Danes frequently vifit this iflaiMl^ for the fake of procuring a fupply of turtle. We faw, as we failed by, heavy breakers foaming on its eaft fide, to a confiderable diftance from the ifland. On the 13th of Ms^rch, we pafied the equator, in the longitude of 356*. The foutheaft tradewind failed us in the third degree of north latitude, and ran round to the northeaft, with which we purfued our voyage, failing clofe-hauled by the wind* As our fhip was the floweft failer of the fleet, we were obliged to carry a prefe of Tail, in order to keep up with the otherS| Whereby we fplit our maintopnjaft. On the 31ft of March, I loft my fecond lieutenant. É 192 } Ikutenaht^ HttKRY Verbuhg, who kacïbeen unfit for doty, by fickncfs, froip the begin- ning of December* On the 2d of April, in the north latitude of 22*, we faw, for the firft time, the fea- weed, called gulph-wecd*. This feaweed confifts of fmall green bunches, large fields of which are fomctimes feen floating on the water; they arc mpftly difpofed in long bands, feparated from each other by narrow intervals, and lying longitudinally in the direétion of the ^WsBIIJw^hichgëfterally blow here, between n.n.b. and e.n.e. It is.a* yet unknown, whether this weed grows upoa the lurface of the fea, or whether it is pro* duced at the bottom, and afterwards riles to the fuperficies -f- . It is worthy of obfervation, that it is not found, in fuch large quantities» in any other part of the ocean ; whence, and from its verdant appearance, the fea here- abouts is called the grafs-fea, by the feamen. The depth is here, as elfewhere in the maia ♦ Fueui HMtans^ ^ f Dr. Thunbekg, the lateft fci«ntific voyager, who lays anj thing coacerning this marine produdian, is of opfnion, that it grows as it floats in the Water, atid fhoot$ fottl? naiK. boots at the cxtitndties,- which g^w larger by dégjh'ees* Thuaberg's Travels, voU iv. p. %j^ T. ocean^ t Ï93 1 ocean, unfathomable. It is between the lati- tudes crf^ 21* and 34^* north, that this fea* weed is moftly met with, decrcafing thence daily, in quantity, to 38 ** or 39*, where it wholly difappears- Neither is any of it feen to the eaftward of the Cape Verde or Canary Iflands, fb that it muft be produced, or aol- leéted, far to the weftward of thefe iflands. A great number of marine animalcul», in- finitely various in fliape, are harboured in this feagrais : ibme of them are as large as the joint of a. finger. They are familiarly called fcacows, fealions, 2cc. in allufion to iiich known land-animals as they refemble the neareft in ihape *• Their fubftauce is a thick flime^ fo that they cannot be preferv- iéy either in fpirits, or in any other way. On the 3d of April, we pafTed the tropic of ycancer, and on the following day, the com- modore made the fignal for all the captains rf the fleet to come on board. As foon as we were affcmblcd, which was * Dr. Thunbbro cnumeratesi among the animab vbich he met with in this feaweed, the fcylUea pelagica^ the cancif mimhUf and tbc Itpbius Bijfrio ^ ^nd Captain Stbdmak par- ticufarizet the hiffocampus^ or feahorfe, which be aptly com- paits to the ehsralier or koagbt of n chffib9ard. iT Vol. !• o at [ 194 ] at eight o*clock in the morning, we were formed into a council, in which the fecret papers and orders committed to the com* modore, at the Cape of Good Hope^ with directions not to open them, till the fleet was in the prefent latitude, were read. They contained, a defignatioh of the place, where we were to look out for the (hips of war, which were cruifing to meet us, being the Lizard Point in the Channel, and the pri- vate fignals of recognizance of them. After this, we fat in judgment on the crime of one of the crew of the Lady Anto^ netta Conradina^ who, being found guilty of mutiny, was fentenced to be ducked three times from the mainyard, to be Severely flogged before the maft, and afterwards re- moved to the Ihip Flujhing ; which ienteiice was immediately put in execution. Having thus concluded our bufine^, we fpent the remainder of the day in merri- ment ; and at funfet we returned on board of our own Ihips, faluting the commodore with eleven guns from each. Our north latitude, at noon, that day, was ^ 24^ 49', and our longitude, by the average computation of all the fhips, 338^ 49'. The C i95 ] The northcaft tradewind left us the follow* ing day, and was fucceeded^ firA by calms^ and afterwards by wefterly and variable winds. Thefe were fometimes pretty high, and occafioned fo great a fwell of the fea, that it at times broke over ns. On the i8th and 1 9th of April efpecially, we ha^ a high wind and fea, with which we ran paft the iflands Corvo and F/ores, which are the moft wefterly of the Azores^ leaving them, how- ever, out of fight, on our right. Hitherto, nothing of material confequcnce had happened on board of my (hip, during the time we had been at lea, which is rather a iingular circumftance in fuch voyages ; but on the. 2d of May, we met with an un- expeéled occurrence, which had no relation to the (hip's affairs. A woman, one Margaret Reymers, had difguifed herfelf in men's clothes, in the beginning of the laft year, and had enlifted as a fbldier on board of the fliip Schoonzicht ; fhe had long kept her fex concealed, but being at laft difcovcred, fhe was put on Ihore at the Cape of Good HopCj and kept there, in order to be fent back to Holland, by 'the J|öme ward fleet. The governor of 02 the [ M ] thit Orpe made choice of mj (hip for tBar purpofe^ aa there wa» « lady oa boajd» who- bad taken her paffage with nae firo» Batama föT HoHund ; and whom this wosuia was to &fve, as a maid, during, the vojage* The miftrefs had hitherto obitrved nothing amifi in her érvant, nor the Icaft figtis of preg* nancy, tiU the moment that ilie heard tlie crying of a child, the maid beiiag then, as- ihe thought, lying afleep on a cheft in hor room. The furgeon being called,» we found that the woman had been delivered of a female child ; and the mother told hkn that the father of it, wa» a iurgeon^s mate at the Cape of Go^d Hope. Some diays afterwards» I had the curiofity to aik her, what had io* duced her to go to India as a foldier ; ike anfwered, that ihe was a Éstfmer's daughter» in the duchy of Oldenburg^ and had left her iiative coyntry, on account of ifi treatment ^ that coming to Hamburgh^ (he there met with a Dutch recruiting officer, who advifed 'her to put on male attire, faying» that if flue would go to India» which he would afüfl h^r to do, ihe would make her fortune ; he» accordingly, conveyed her to Rotterdam^ whence ihe bad been put on JöcJird of I the l ^97 ] the S^bcmxicbt ; &e had remained unnoticed Cor two months on board, but at lafl the firft lieutenant difcover^d her. At the Capei ihe had been weak enough, üle faid» to liften to the frofcffionsof the furgeon'stnate^ who had feduced her, and who> after re- peated prom lies of marriage^ having got her with child, had abandoned her. She wae in the (ixth moi>th of her pregnadcyi when ihe •came on boards nud had hoped that the (hi^ would have reached its deftidation before the time of hw delivery. She was between twenty-three and twenty-four years of age^ tall, and of a large and ct)arre make, by which £he could eadly pa& for a man, in her Ibldiers* uniform. Three days after this cveirt, we came into ibundings^ in the chof s of the Channel^ ninety fathom ; but the vidient eafterly winds (H-evented us £rom making tfhe Scilfy iflands till the nth of May^ whea we got fight of them^ at noon» At four o'clock, p.m. two Texel pilots came on board of us, and others on board of •the other (hips of the fc[uadron9 bound to the ^exeL The next day^ at feven o- clock, a.m. we o 3 faw [ '98 ] faw the two (hips of war, that were crulfing for us, ofF Lizard Point ; and our commodore flood towards them. About nine o'clock, he made the private fignal of recognizance, which was anfwered by one of the frigates, When we were within about half a league of them, our commodore faluted with thir- teen guns, and ftruck his flag, but which, as foon as the frigate had returned his falute, he hoifted again. This occafioned much mif- underftanding between the commodore of the homeward fleet, who infifted upon con- tinuing to bean his commodore's flag, and Captain Van Braam, commander of the two trifrates, who would not fufFer this, and would only allow the commodore to carry an enfign at the maintv)p. To this he was at laft obliged to fubmit, after we had been de- tained for five or fix hours during a favour- able gale, by the boats going backwards and forwards, in order to bring the com- modore to reafbn, and to fettle this punftilio. By our obfervation at the Lizard Point, wc found, that fince our laft oblervation, ofF the ifland Afcenjion^ on the 5th of March, we were 4^ 32', or 45 leagues, more to the Weftw»rd, thap by computation, J At [ Ï99, 1 At funfet, we made fail, in company with both the frigates, fleering for the Start Point, The next morning, the commander niade a fignal for all captains of flilps to come on board, when I found that this was our States' frigate the Thetis^ under the command of Captain William Van Braam, and the other, the Triton^ Captain Raders, which* laft w^s to convoy us farther, to the ports to. which we were bound. Being returned on board of our own (hips. Captain Van Braam, made the fignal to feparate, and returned to his cruifing ftation off the Lizard Point, returning, when he left us, with eleven guns, the falute of thir- teen, given by the commodore of the honoé- ward fleet. While we were lying by, all the fhips of the fleet were examined by two oflicers of the Thetis. We met with eafterly winds and calms in our paflage up the Channel, fb that it was only on the 2 2d of May, that we paflecj the Straits of Dover ^ and entered the North Sea. On the following day, the Young Samuely 04 - the [ aoo ] the Flu/hmg^ and the LaJy Antonttta Cén^ rudina^ feparated from us, the firft for Zm« land^ and the two laft for Goeree *. At niue o'clock, a.m. on the a4th of May, we diicovered the coaft of Holland,and at ten, we few the fteeple of Egmwd. Shortly after- wards the frigate oiade the fignal for puihing on. We faluted with eleven guns, and were anfwcred with five. We then worked up for tbc Texel roads, and at five o'clock, p.iif^ we came to anchor, in the fouth gut, falut** ing the road with eleven guns ; and on the 26th of May^ the crew Were diicharged by the direftor Beaumont. "* An iihnd at the entrance of the 3£r^. 7*. BOOK C api ] BOOK IL CySSSlVATIONS R£SP£CTING THE ISLAKD OF JAVA. CHAPTER I. Siiuatim of Java. — Straits ^Sunda. — ^Princb^S ^nJ, — Dwars in den Weg. — Bay cf An- jtR. — Claim rf tbi Dutch Eaft-India Compatty U tti SiWireigmy rf the Straits rf Svnda«— J4^ ^Bamtam. — Rood cf Batavia. — Kingdtmtf Bantam. — Tributary to the Compatty. — Sf^ecb made oh the Afpointmont of a Suueffor to tha throne. — Emfire of Jaccatra. — Of Chsri« BON, — Cf the Sobsoehoenam, or Emperor of Java.— 0/ the Sultan. — Principality of Ma- dura. — Poetical ConduS of the Company towards the native Princes. HE ifland of Java^ wliich is one of the largcft of thofc conftituting the great Ori* ental Archipelago, is iituated between 6* and 9^ fouth latitude, and extends from 120*" to 131® caft longitude from Tener^e^ being J [ 202 ] being one hundred and fixty-five Dutch miles in length. It lies nearly in the direétion of eaft and weft. To the fouth, and to the weft, ks fliores are waflied by the fouthern Indian Ocean ; to the northweft of it, lies the ifland of Sumatra ; to the north, Borneo ; to the northeaft, Celebes \ and to the eaft thatvof Bali: from which laft it is feparated by a narrow paffage, called the Straits of Bali, The arm of the fea which runs be- tween Java and Sumatra^ is known by the appellation of the Straits of Sunda. . The length of this channel, is, on the Sumatra fide, taken from the Flat Point, to Varkens^ or Hog Point, fifteen German miles ; and, on the "Java fide, from the firft point, or Java Head, to the point of Bantam^ full twenty. In the mouth of the ftrait, lies Princess Ifland, about a league and a half from the coaft of Java, and full fix league^ from that of Sumatra, Prince's Ifland, is. low, and only aboiit four leagues in circumference. It has^ how- ever, two hills, one at its eaft end, and the other a little more to the fouth, which make it vifible at a moderate diftance, efpecially the hill, which lies at the eaft end, and which IS [ 203 ] is accordingly called the High hill, by navi« gators *. There is a ftone reef at its s.w. fide, ^vhich, according to the charts, extends a league and a half out to fea, and is dan- gerous for the fhips which pals through the paflage between this ifland and Java. Princess Ifland is covered with trees, and affords an agreeable profpeft to the pafling fcamen : it is inhabited by Javanefc, who fubfift by fifhing. By the fituation of this ifland, at the en- trance of the fl:raits of Sunda^ are formed two paflages i the one, running between Princes Ifland and Java^ has been called the Behouden^ or Secured Paffhge^znA is made ufe of, for the moft part, by thofe fliips which have to pafs the ftraits, during the fbuthcaft monfoon, in order, that, failing clofe in with the ïhore of Java^ they may fbon get within anchoring-depth, and not be in danger of being driven out to fea again, by the currents, which at that time of the • The Engliih call it the Pike: in Lieut. Cook's voyage in the End^awur, there is a more ample account of this «land. T, year. [ «04 ] jfcar^ iet Atongly out Af the ilraits, to the weftward. The other pafrage, which is called by ieameat het Gr^te Gat^ or the Great Cèamu/p ibmetknes ierves alio as aii entrance to the ftraits^ during the foutheaft monibon ; but k is with the greateft difficulty, and after a continued ifcruggUng with the foutheafteiiy winds^ and the cuirents^ that this can be cffê£led s and it is not an unfrequcat cir** i cttmftance that five or fix weeks are (pent» 'm working up a diftance,which, in the wefi: axmibon» is often failed over, in twice as many hours. Tifc £a(l-India Company's (hip, Luxem- ^gt Captain Roem^ affords an inftance iiereof : (he iailed on tlK 2d of June, 1768, from the bay of Pumo Gallo^ and catne ia fight of the Flat Point of Sumatra^ at the entrance of the flraits, cm the 24th of July^ but could not get upon' the anchoring*- ground^ under the fhore of Jofoa^ till the aift of November, k was^ however, re-* markable, that the fhip Torenvliet^ which iailed in company with tht Luxenéurg, from Punto Galloj reached Batavia, full, three months before her ; and hence appears how much [ «05 1 much ibmetimes oae fliip is either a better iailer, or has better fortune, than another» though feamanfliip and knowledge be upon an e^ual footing» NotwitkAanding the difficulty of enter** ing the ftraits on this Mcy when theie ooi^ trary winds and currents are in £>rce^ yet aknoft all the fiups which h\l to leeward^ lapon the weft coaft of Stmatra^ as well as tho& which Gome from Surat, Maiaiar^ CeyÜM, Coroffumdélj Bengal^ or other places in the weft of India^ are obliged to pa& through this channel, as» it is icarcely po^- iible for them to reach the windward flKire ef Javay in the teeth of the foutheaft mon- ibon, and they therefore cannot avail of the other paflage. That this, howevei*^ is not wholly impra^icable, appeared by the ihipi» HiitYoung Ueven^ and the .4^ ^^ ^^ (he month of June, 1770, «fFeéled it ; yet fi>ch cafes are extremely rare. The entrsuice of the Araits, on thh^ fido^ affords an uncommonly pka£ng prdipeél^ near the Sumatrwi ihore» Firft, the Pht Point» which is low, and covered with trees, and behind it the tnajx^dic mountains of Sumatray rifmg with a gradual alcent, and reaching [ Bo6 ] reaching to the clouds; a little more for-» ward, the Keizers^ or Emperors Ifland, lifts its high and fpiry fummit ; farther on, the iflands Kraketau^ Slybzee^ and Pulo Bicie^ or tht Iron Ifland, (hew their mountains covered with ever-verdant woods. The oppofite coaft of Java is not inferior to this, and im* proves continually in appearance, as you pais along it, affording at the fame time good anchorage, which is not to be met with on the Sumatra fide. The numerous groves of cecoanut-palms, and the rice-fields in the background, give the moft pleafing ideas of the fertility of the foil. Twelve or thirteen leagues from Prince*^ Ifland, in the narrowed part of the ftrait, and oppofite to Varkens^ or Hog Point of Sumatra^ lies an ifland, that, on account of its fituation, exaflly in the middle of the channel, has, with great propriety, ob* tained the name of Dwars in den Weg^ Thwart the Way^ or Middle Ijle. It is low, and of little extent, with fome fmall reeft, which ftretch out from it here and there. Like all the iflands in thefe feas, it is co- vered with wood, and, as far as I know, it is uninhabited. A Arong [ 207 ] A ftrong current runs through the paf* -iages on either (ide of thia ifland, during Jtho -whole year, fetting, with the prevailing' cafterly or wefterly winds, either to the northeaft or to the fouthweft, although it fbmetimes happens, that the current runs contrary to the direftion of the wind, for a fhort time. Between Dwars in den Weg ahd the coaft of ^ava^ and farther on to the point of Bantam^ there appears to be a fettled cur* rent, independent of the wind ; at leaft I found, when, in the month of June, com- ing from Bengal^ with the (hip Cornelia HiU Uganda^ I lay at anchor, for a day and a half, in the bay of Anjer^ over againft Dwars in Jen JVeg^ that the current changed its courfc to a contrary direftion, twice in four-and- tweuty hours ; that, however, which flowed towards the ftraits». was full as ftrong again^ as that which fet the oppofite way : the s.b* monfbon was then at its height. I experi- enced the fame thing in the month of No»-^ vember of the fame year, with the fliip Hms ter My e ^ though it was then in the latter eüd of the monfoon. . ._. . . ^ Ships pafling out through the ftraits of Sunda, [ 20S ] Suttia^ often anchor in the bay of Anjer^ ih arder to take in their laft fupply of freih vater, from a rivulet which runs from the mountains into the fêa, at this place, cloie to a little grove of cocoanut-trees. There is likewife a Javanefe village, which is un« der the jurifdidion of the king of Bantam^ and which has erroneoufly been reckoned^ by ibme travellers, among the large cities of Java^ though it has nothing that can be conftrued into a town. Not far from this place, there is an Ulet or rock, entirely overgrown with brufli- wood, which is called the Braiandfeb^b^je% and a little farther to the north, a fimilar one, called the Toppers-hoedje *; this laft is fteep'and bold, having fifty fathom depth efefe'to it. The Dutch £aft«-India Company claim an abfolute fovereignty over the Straits of Sunda^ and this is acknowledged by all die other powers. The Company require the ^ fidute, and have the right o{ interdiéling ihts paffitge to all other nations, thou^ they • Thefe foiiU illands are called the Cy and Btutm^ by the do [20^ ] do 'not put their right in force*. This right is maintained as proceeding from the circumflance, that the land on both fides of the ftraits is tributary to the Company ; viz. the kingdom of Bamam on the Java ihore, and CMi the other fide the land of Lamptm^ with Üiat which lies farther weftward, being conquered provinces beloqging to Bantam. There is a reiblutiite» on this Ittbjed, of the council of India» and articles are included in the iecret orders» which are ^ven to the Company's (hips» bound to the weft of India, refpei^ing the falute tp be required of the (hips of other nations j which order is not to be opened, unlcis they chance to meet with fuclu From Anjer to the point of Bantam^ the xxnintry appears, in general, with high i&ountains inland, and a fottland more leveL From this point, which is the northemmoft exb-emity of Java, the land declines to the l^theaft, and makes a deep bay ; and in * Thu chim hts never been openly made by the Dutch^ except indeed their pnttfaig fundry queAidnf to idl ftrahge ftipt who pftft the ftnits, at drciunfiantially rehted in Cook's voyage in the SMje a vmr^ may be conftrued into fuch a cfadm } and it wouM probably not be allowed, by the oth^ Mdons who Hade to In^if infified upon. 7. vei* It ^ the J [210 ] tb<>^rthj0ft paüt af the big^fr is ^tuate^tW oity of BMtam^ of which 1 have- alroMgh iQgde £>ine mcnttoQ, and ihaU &j moifar refpe^u»g it hereafter.) From the point of Pmtang^ which Iwmsi Um M^ern extx'emity of tb« bi^ of Bm^0m% 2i$i that wJbich we have joft' mentioned: dop» the weiicni, the land is every where veiy* krw; yet there are high mouQtakift ialan^ aoQong which the Bhie roountain towera ^K)ve the reft. Althov^k this mountain lies at a great diftance^ towards the ibuti) £de of die ifland, and fbutheaft from Bat^ via^ yet it is feen before Bantam. It was formerly, as is related, a volcano ; but no-* thing of this kind is at prefent perceivable. The navigation from, this- place to the road of Batavia, affords the moft agreeable profpedis^ by the numerous ünall iflands; covered with perpetual verdure, which ar^ ftrewed, at it were, along the feci. The anchoring<-gröund is. eveiiy^. yrhere very goo^ but there are many rocks, which are from t^u to eightie^i feetuQder water, and,wliich ibmetimes occsfion much damagje* to the veffels that do not carefully avoid- them'. The govefnmex^t of^B^^/^ howeYHiif.haye ,:.X»vfcd tWÊÉkêf'hnoys tohc )>lacüd upon thétn, ihoor* e^ by heavy anchors; and upon feme of them beacons arei creaked ; but when thcfo arc wafhed away by the currents, the navi- gatior muO: avoid the rocks» by taking thé bearings of the feveral iilands. The road of Batavm is juftly cfteemed oae of the beft in the world, as weW with regard to the anchorihg-grouad, wbfch con- fifts of a foft clay, as with 'regard to the fafety it affords to the ihips which anchor in it, and to the number which it can con-« tain. Although the road is open from the N.w. to E,N.E. and eaft, yet ihips lie as fecure and quiet as if they were landlocked, on account of the numerous ifiands which lie on that fide, and break the force of the' waves. Ships, therefore, are never obliged to moor ftem and ftern here ; and the cur- rent which runs within the iflands is hot ftrong, but without them it is very vioknf. ,,In the road, neareft to the town, lies a guardfhip, commonly called the admiral- fhip, with an enfign at the fOp, from which, both in the day and in the night, fuch fi^- luils are made to the other iliips in the road, as the cofiMBftndi^. officer ihall think heedn* p 2 ful. I ait ] ful. For feveral jears pail» it has beeo re*' gulatedy that one ol the captains of the fliips in the road, ihould keep guard on board this ihip, in order that, in cafe of ac* cident, by fire or dtherwife, there may be always ibmebody at hand, to give the ne* ceflary diredions, as the other captains of the vcflels generally pafs the night in the city. On fuch occafions, a iigtial is mado from the admihd-fhip, to give information, in order that the neceflary afliftance be im* mediately fcnt from the fliore. Before I fay any thing of Batavia^ it will not be improper to relate how far the power of the Eaft-India Company extends over the whole ifland of Java. This is divided into four empires, or kingdoms» which are, either wholly or in part, fubjeél to the dominioa of the Company. The firft, to begin from the weft, is the kingdom of Bantam i this is governed by its own kings, with full power of life and death over their fubjeds ; yet they are tri» bntary to the Company, paying a yearly acknowledgment of a hundred èAars of pepper, or 37f5oo pounds weighty Befi^ which, there is a Axi6t cogagenMBt entered into C ^»3 t into by the king, not to fell any pcppfer^ or any thing elfe of the produce of his country, to other nations. It muft all be delivered to the Company, for a certain ftipulated price. And this does not fblely regard the pepper; produced in his dominions in Java^ but like wife all that'^is grown in his other territories, his conquered provinces, (ituated in the great ifland of Borneo, and in Suma^ tra, which likewife yield much pepper ; and the Company have accordingly reiidencies eftabliihed, in the iirft, at Banjermqffing^ and in the laft, at Lampon Tfulaiwwa^ which {ctvpj in the fame way as Fort Speelnoyk does at Bantam^ to enforce the fulfilment of the treaties, and to prevent a contr|d>and trade. The king o£$antam is alfo deprived of the power of appointing h|s own fucceflbr, and the Company nominate one of the royal family to fucce^d hio), as latterly took place in the year 1767. The fpeech made, on that occaiion, by Mn OsBSNBSRG, ordui^ry counfellor of India^ who was deputed thither from Batavia^ to reprefent the united Dutch Eaft-India Com« panyt as lord paramount, appeared to me, r ^ from [ 2U 1 from ijt$ peculiarity, well worthy of being- literally inferted in this place, as tranflateé out of the Malay, which was the language in which k was delivered, as follows : **. His excellency the governor general, .^ an4 the honourable the council of ladia^ ^* having thought fit and refolved, to appoint ^ me, as their eommiflary plenipotentiary ^' to the court of Bantam^ in order, at the ?* requeft of the king, to propofe and ap- ^ point, his majefty's eldeft Ion Pangorang ** (prince) Gusti, as hereditary prince, and ^ lucceffor to the empire of Bantam ; and, *^ this defirable period being now arrived, ♦♦ in confequence, I, the commiflary afore- •' faid, in the name and behalf of the ge- *• neral Eaft-India Company of the Nether- ^ lands, appoint the iaid pangqrangj to be ^^ pangorang ratoo^ or hereditary prince, ***.and heir to the crown and the whole " efnpire of Rantam^ by the title of Abdvu- *' MOFAGIR MOHAMED Atl JolFDEEN. " The commiflary expeös,. that the (aid '^* pangorang rafoo will, at all times, con- '>f fider this, his important promotion, as a -** peculiar favour, and a great benefit con- ** ferred upon him by the honourable Comf* ^ pany ; t *«5 ] ^ pahy; bdng adopted from this moment^ as ^ ttic grandibn of the Eaft-^India Company of V the Netherlands ; and that he will hcnce- •* forward, on all occafions, and in all times, ^* behave with integrity and gratitude t0« " wards them, mt>^ttiy alone, and not to fell any of it to -any other nation; likewifc, not to enter in/to iatiy connedione, or treaties, «with other powers; and great care is taken, to en- force theiS^ <:o.]!KUtion6, by the Company, whofe numerous forts and garrilbn^, along the whole north coaft of Java^ render the contravention of them extremely dif- ficult, if not wholly impoffible, to the na- tive princes. Were they, however, all to unite againft the Company, the latter would be in a very diiagreeable predicament ; but their mutual and unceafing jealoufies and animofities^ are fafeguards againft this. Though the Company's government do not perhaps fo- ment, yet' they do not extinguifh the flames of difcord ; which being always kept fmoul- dering, make one native prince prevent whatever another may defign againft the Company, by giving them immediate advice • thereof. It was like wife for very folid political reaibns» reaibnSy that me empire of Java^ wis allow* tA^ or rather Contrived, to be divided iato two ftates ; for fiich an extent of territory as it formerly comprchendtd» would always have made whoever was its (ble mafter, a dangerous neighbour to the Company»where- jis being now under the doibioion of two different men, who are likewife irrecon- cileable enemies, it is eafily kept in entire fubje^tionr CHAPTER [ "ï J CHAPTER n. SUtuuim of Java. — Climate. — Land and Sta fFindshn^MonJomis. — Tbunderfiorms. — Rivers. — PrednSum.^^Peppei. — Rice. — Sugar.— Coffee.-^ CMon-Tam.'^alt.^^fndigo. — Timier. —FruUs. ^Vafi Variety cf them.— "The Natives.— Ibeir CbaraBer. — Drefs. — Cuftoms. — Dwellings. -^ Fcod. — Diver/tmu. — Rdigim. — Phyftdans. — AgriadtnTi. Java is fituated, as we have before ob- fcrved, to the foutb of the equator, in a climate, which was thought vninhabitable bjr the ancients, on account of thé fcorching heat^ ^which they believed rendered the land there fb arid and barren, as to be unable to produce any thing for the fubliAence of man* This opinion originated from their total ig- norance refpeding the interior parts of Africa» which lie between the tropics, as well as -reipeéting the Indies, and the great * peninfula beyond the Ganges. The im-^ provements of navigation, in modern times, liave exploded thb error, and proved that the lands Inear the equino^al^ far from 5 l>wng being infertile and uninhabited, on the con« trary, yield the palm in nothing, to lefs tor- rid regions, and are able to feed full as many inhabitants, as the moft fertile coun-»' try in the temperate climates, provided the land be but properly cultivated. The idea, that the heat muft be utterly infupportable in thefê parts, id not fb abiurd^ for the fun is twice a year veSrtically over them, and its rays (hoot almoft always in a perpendicular line ; fo that it would, for cer* tain, be nearly as bad as was iuppofed, if Nature herfelf did not come to their afliflr* anc?^ by the refrefhing land and fca-breczes. whic)|i blow here alternately, throughout the year^ and fo far moderate the heat, as to majce it bearable by moft men. As the rifing and fetting of the fun, is likewife always nearly at the fame hour^ and fcarcely differing more than a few minutes, the long nights confequently cool the air fo nauch, that in the morning, for an hour or twa before daybreak, it may be rather iaid to be cold than warm, especially for fiich people as have refided here for fome time. From the month of July to November, which was the time of my laft ftay at Bata^* I , via. ( «^3 ) via^ the thermometer of Fahrenheit was always,, in the hotteft part of the day, be- tween 84"* and 90®, excepting only one day, \yheait rofe to 92** ; and in the greatcft de- gree of coohiefs in the morning, ifr was fel- dom lower than 76**. This thermometer ivas placed in the open air, in the city^ ihaded both from the rays of the fun, and from their reflection. The barometer undergoes little or no variation, and ftands for a whole year at twenty-nine inches ten lines^ as I was in* formed by the Rev. Mr. Mohr, who made 4aily annotations thereof. The warmth of the air decreafes greatly, on approaching the mountains, which lie towards the fouthern parts of the ifland. Credible people have aflured me, that at the country-feat of the governor general, which is Called Buitenzorg^txxrdX care), and is fitu* ated full fixteen Dutch m'des fbuth from Baiavia, At the foot of the Blue mountains, the cold is fb great in the morning, that not only thick clothes are requifite, but it is difficult to become warm even with them *• The *- Dn T^vvju^Hi who vifitcd both Btatetnufrg and the Hue tMOntftiiify fayvy that t!ie cfioMte theiv» was vcfy hcakhjr and ( "4 ) The land.aod fea- winds, of which men- tioQ has already been made, blow here every day, without exception. The fea-breeze» which, in the eaft monfbon is generally con- fined between b.K.e. and north, but in the weft monfbon runs as far as n.w. and fsirihcr^ begins to blow, about eleven or twelve o*clock in the forenoon. It encreaies in the afternoon by degrees, till the evening, and then dies gradually away, till about eight or nine o^clock, it is perfeftly calm. The land-wind then begins at midnight, or jufl before, and continues till an hour or two after funrife, when it generally again fells calm, till the fea-breeze comes on at its ac« cuftomedhour. The year is divided into two feafbns, one of which is called the eafi mmfoon ♦, or dry and refrefhing, «nd the air* efpocially in the morniag ^jA evening, not cuily cool, but abfolutely cold, infocnucb, tbat^ not having brought a great*coat with him, he was *^ chiikd, ^ and perfeftly fhivered with the cold evening air, in a coun» <' try, that lies ahnoft direAly under the equator." T, * The word mon/hgn (in Dutch, aHU|^}, is derived fifom mouj/im^ which, in the Malay language, fignifies^^^. See Valentyn btfebryving van Opft-'lnélie^ vol. ii, p. 136. Mr. Ma&sden, in his Hiftory of Sumêira^ pa^ 13, (ays, that the woid fMooffimfOi which the |erm mm/km appws to be a corruption, fignifi^s ajwcri both in Arabic, .and in Maby* ?*•* feafop, i «5 ] feafon, and the other the Hvejl monfioHf or tainy feafon. The eaft, ör good monfoon (goede mouffon)^ commences in the months of April and May, and ends in the latter end of September, of the beginning of Oftober. The tradewinds then blow, about four or five leagues ofF fhore, and through the whole of the Indian feas, to the fbuth of the line, from the s.e, and E.s.E. at times, however, running as far as s.s.e. with fine dry weather, and a clear Iky. The weft, or bad raonfoon (kwaade moujfon)^ generally begins in the latter end of November, or the beginning of Decem- ber. The wind then often blows with great violence, and is accompanied by heavy tor- rents of rain, which render this feafon very unhealthy, and a time of the greatefl: mor- tality. The fame winds are likewife found to prevail every where to the fouth of the line. They continue till the latter end of February^ or the beginning of March, and then are very variable, till April ; in which month, as I was informed, the eafterly winds begin to blow : hence thefe months, as likewife 06lober and part of Ncfv^ember, VOL. I. Q^ are [ 226 ] are called the (hifting months ; and thefe times of the breaking up of the monfbons, are efteemed, at Batavia^ the moft unhealthy of all. It is very remarkable, that when the wefterly winds blow as far as nine or ten degrees to the fouth of the line, the con- trary takes place, at the fame time, and to the fame diftance, to the north of it ; and vice verfa, when the wefterly winds prevail to the north, the eafterly winds blow to the fbuth of the line ; which alternation is greatly helpful to the navigation weft ward of Java. For fomc years paft, it has been obfcrved at Batavia^ that the commencement of the monfoons begins to be very uncertain, fo that, neither their beginning, nor their end, can be depended upon^ with fo much certainty, as formerly ; the caufe of which has not hither- to been difcovered. Thunderftorms are very frequent at Bata- via J efpecially towards the conclufion of the monfoons, when they occur almoft every evening. They, however, moftly pafs away without doing any damage,. I have noticed in my journal the only two times> during my E ««7 ] my refidence there, that they did any; the one, in the month of Auguft, 1769, whe^^ J was at the ifland Onrufty where the light- ning fell upon the powder-magazine, wholly deftroyii^ the tiled roof, while it fortu- nately happened, that there was no powder, at that time, in the magazine ; the other, when it ftruck the (hip, the Admiral de Rui-^ tery in Odober, 1 770 ; both which accidents were however unaccompanied by the de- ilruélion of any perfon. To the beft of my knowledge, there are no large rivers in Java^ navigable by vef- fels of even a moderate burden, but there are many fmall ones, which flowing down from the mountains, in a northerly direc- tion, run into the fea, all along the north coaft ; they are, however, moftly choaked up at the mouth, by fands, or mudbanks, which render their entrances, at low water, very difficult to the fmalleft veflels. On the bank, or I)ar, before Bahivia, the flood rifes about fix feet, though at fpring- tides, as every where, it is more. High and low water, likewife, only occur once in four- and-twenty hours. The productions which the ifland yields, 0^2 are t "8 1 afe confidcrablc, and of great importance ter the Company ; more particularly for the laft thirty years, in which period, the cultiva- tion of coffee, and other articles, has been affiduoufly profecuted and encouraged. The chief produce is pepper, which is moftly grown in the weftern part of the jfland. This fpice is produced from a plant * of the vine kind, which twines its ten- drils round poles, or trees, like ivy or hops. The pepper corns grow in bunches, clofe to each other. They are firft green, but af- terwards turn black. When dried, they arc firft feparated from the duft, and partly from the outward membranous coat, by means of a kind of winnow, called a harpy and then laid up in warehoufes. This winnow, or barpy is an oblong frame, with a bottom of iron wire, clofely twifted, fo that the pep- percorns cannot pafs through it ; this is let floping, and the ungarbled pepper rolling along it, frees itfelf from moft of its im- purities. The empire of Bantam^ with its depen- dencies at LampoHj yield annually to the * Piper nigrum. Company, [ «9 ] Company, more than fix millions of pounds of this fpice. This pepper is efteemed the next bed to that which comes from the coaft of Malabar. That from Palembang^ of which likewifb a very confiderable quan- tity is delivered to the Company, as well as that of Borneo^ is of a much inferior quality *• The price, for which the king of Bantam is obliged to fell all the pepper, produced in his dominions, is fixed at fix rixdollars, or fourteen gilders and eight flivers per picol, of one hundred and twenty-five pounds -j-^ It has been the opinion of many, that the white pepper, is the fruit of a plant, dif* tinft from that which produces the black ; this, however, is not the cafe ; they are ^ both the fame production ; but the white is manufaéhircd, by being laid in lime, which takes off its outer coat, and renders it * See the exad quantities of the imports of pepper at Ba^ fannéf^ for one year, from all thefe places, in book iv, chap. X, of Mr. Stavorinus's fecond voyage. T. f Equal to about twenty-two (hillings fterling per hun- fired weight Engliih» or nearly twopence halfpenny per poundy T. 0^3 whitifh. [230] whitifli. This is done before the pepper is perfectly dry. -Rice * ia the fecond produö of Java^ and is colleöed in large quantities, cfpecially in the empire of Java proper. It grows chiefly in low, fenny ground. After it has been fown, and has (hot up, about two or three handbreadths, above the ground, it is tranfplanted by little bundles, of fix or more plants, in rows s then by the damming up of the many rivulets, which abound in this country, the rice is inundated, in the rainy feafon, and kept under water, till the ftalks have attained ftifficient ftrength ; when the land is drained, by opening ,thc dams, and it is foon dried, by the great heat of the fun. At the time of the rice-harveft, the fields have much the (ame appearance, as our wheatand barley-fields, and afford an equally rich Icene of golden uniformity. The fickle is not ufed in reaping the rice, but inftead of it a fpiall knife, with which 'the ftalk is cut, about a foot under the ear ; thi$ is done, one by one, and they are then bound [ 23r J bound into fhcaves, the tenth of which is the reward of the mower. The paddee^ which is the name given to the rice, whilft in the huik *, does not grow, like wheat and barley, in compad cars, but like oats, in loofe fpikes. It is not threfhed, to feparate it from the hulk, but ftamped in large wooden blocks, hollowed out ; and the more it is ftamped, the whiter it becomes when boiled. The native Indians, through- out the eaft, ufe this grain as bread, and as their principal food. Java has been called the granary of the caft, on account of the immeniè quantity of rice which it produces. The other iflands in this neighbourhood, yield little or none, except Celebes, where enough is grown to provide likewife Amboyna with this ftafF of life. In the year 1 767, the quantity of feven thouland lafts, or thirty-one millions of * The following, befid» many others» are names applied to rice» in its different ilages of growth and preparation : paddee^ original name of the feed : ^Jfay^ grain of lafi feafon ; huimee^ the rice-plants before tranfplantation ; tras, or hray^ rice dripped of its hulk ; cbarroop^ rice cleaned for boiling ; naffce^ boiled rice» &c. 71 Q^ 4 pounds L ^3^ ] pounds of rice *, was required, and fur» pifhed, for the confumption of Batavia^ Cey- hfij and Banda^ from the ifland of Java. Sugar is likewife an article, which is produced in large quantities in Jüvuy and brought to Batavia. The quantity of thir- teen millions of pounds, manufaétured ip the year 1768 in the province of Jacatra alone, is fuificient to ihew, with what luxuriance the fugarcane -j- flourifhes here. Much of it is exported to the weft of India, to Suraf and the coaft of Malabar^ and the reft to Europe, Moft of the fugarmills are kept and worked by Chinefe. A fourth produélion of the ifland, is cof- fee. The plantations of it are, however, peculiarly confined to the provinces of Cbe^ ribon and Jaccatra. The tree \ which pro- duces this berry, was firft introduced into Java in 1722, or 1723, under the govern- ment of the governor general Zwaarde- KRooN, who greatly encouraged the culti- vation of it, among the Javanefe. It is at * x4,oop tons, or 280,000 cwt. T* f Sacchartfm cjfieinanm* pfefent [ ^33 1 prcfcnt fo much multiplied, that in th^ year 1768, Jaccatra furniflied 4,465,500 pounds weight to the Company, who paid no more, according to the beft of my know* Jedge, than three rixdollars and a half, or pight gilders eight ftivers, per picol of a hundred and twenty-five pounds *. Cotton-yarn, is likewife an important ob^f je6l of trade, which Java furniflies to the Company. It is fpun by the Javanefe, from the cotton which is produced, in great plenty, in the interior parts^ The province of Jaccatra yielded, in 1768, no more than 133 picols, or i6,2i25 pounds, which was 1875 pounds lefs than ought to have been delivered by the Indians, according to the qnota impofed upon them; but this deficiency was occafioned b) a feaibn of uncommon drought, by which the cotton-crop had been materially injured. ♦ Mr. Stavorinui correfts this ftatetnenti with rcfpcö to .the price, ia his fecond voyage, where he informs us, that the rate at which the Company paid for the coffee, was four rix* doUari per picol, being equal to about 14/. ^d, (lerling per ^wt. ; but other accounts, make this article (land them in the fame proportion as the pepper, twopence halfpenny per pound, or about i/. 2/. per cwt. : the firft is probably what is paid to fhc cultivators, and the laft the invoice«vaIue, being with the j^4diUon of the charges. ST. Salt, [ 234 ] Salt, much of w^ich is brought from Remkang to Batavia^ is equally an article of trade for the company, who dilpofe of it, for a handibme profit, at Sumatra^ weft coaft. Another produ6l of the country, is indigo, /Which is moftly fhipped to Europe, The culture of the plant which produces this dye *, is profecuted with vigour in the pro- vince of Jaccatra. In the year 1 768, the natives were aflefled at 6, 1 25 pounds, though they only furniflied 2,875 pounds. Large quantities of heavy timber are alfo brought from the northeaft coaft of Java^ to Bafavia. ^Thisisnot, in reality, a branch of trade for the Company ; but it is of great importance for ihip-building, and other pur- pofes 'f. From all this, the great importance of this ifland to the Company, is very apparent. It produces fome of their mofl confiderable articles of commerce, and provides the great- eft part of their Indian poffeflions with food, * Indigofera tln8oria. «t See the more ample account given of the articles of trade of Java^ in book iv, chap, i, of Mr. StaVwRINus's fecond voyage. 7*. not [ ^3S ] not to fay any thing of the laft mentioned advantage, of furnifhing materials for Ihip* building. The ifland is extremely abundant in fniit- bearing trees. In the firft place, there is the cocoanut«palm *, which is well known. Xhe Suri tree, which yields the palm- wine, or toddy. China-oranges -f, of which there are two forts, one of a large, and the other of a fmaller fize. The tamarind- tree J, whofe fruit confifts in pods, contain- ing the tamarind, a fpungy fubftance, in which the beans or ftones are inclofed. The pompelmoes^ or (haddock ||, the fruit of which is one of the moft wholcfome, on account of its refrefliing quality and tafte. Next the durioon^ or drioon-lrtt §, the fruit * Cocos nucifera. \ Citfus aurantium. \ Tamarindus indifa, II Citnis tUcumauus ; the üiaddock is a large lemon, of the Ü2;t of a child's head ; the juice is moderately acid, and <]uenches thirft ; it is cooling, antifeptic and antifcorbutic. T. § The botanical rank of the durioon, though it is particu- larly noticed in Cook's voyage in the Endeavour, as well as by Dr. Thunbkrg, feems not to have been yet afcer- tained ; the following account of the tree which produces it, from MA&SDBNy may perhaps be helpful to the botanift : •* The I «3<5 J fruit of which is inclofed in a hard (hell, of the lizc of a man's head, and fometimcs larger ; it has a nioft difagreeable fmcU, which is extremely ofFenfive to thofe who have never eat of it ; when once, however, the fruit is tailed, the loathing which its odour is apt to excite, is quickly overcome, and ufc makes it, in the end, fo familiar, that it , is generally preferred beyond all other fruits. It is a ftrong ftimulative, and is therefore much prized by the Chinefe, The Sur/ak^trcc * has a fruit of a fimilar icind with the durioon^ but it is not accom^ papied by fuch a fetid fmelh The ♦* The tree is large and lofty ; the leaves arc finall in prot f' portion, but in themfelves long and pointed. The blof- *' foms grow in cluflersf on the üem * and larger branches, *• The petals are five, of a yellowifli y/ïaie^ furrounding five ♦* bunches of ftamina, each bunch containing abopt twelve, f' and each Hamen having four antheras. The pointal i$ «* knobbed at top. When the ftamina and petals fall, the •* empalement rcfemblcs a fuiigus, and is nearly the Ihape of « a Scotch-bonnet. The fruit is not unlike the breadfruit, « but larger and rougher on the outfide." It has by fomc )>een confounded with the breadfruit. Dr. Thunberq fays, it is confidered as diuretic, and fudorific, and fervlceabl^ in expelling wind. T, * This fcems to be the nanca, or jakes of Cook, and thp boa nanca {radcrmacbm) of Thunberq ; or what is commonly t 237 ] The mangO'trcc * deferves equally to bé noticed ; its fruit, when ripe, has a thin, oblong fliape, and is about the iize of a goofe's egg. Its coat is not thick, óf a yellow colour, and foft. When peeled, it has a flefliy flibftancc. Within, it is of an orange colour, like a melon, with which its flavour has likewile fome analogy ; but if the mango be a good one, it is much more delicious. In the centre, is a large kernel. When green, it is made into att^ \jar -f- ; for this, the kernel is taken out, and the' Ipace. filled vp with ginger, pimento, and other ipicy ingredients, after which, it is pickled in vinegar, and is fent to all parts, as prefents, or otherwife. called the jack, by the Englifti ; at Batavia^ it is generally of the fizc of a large melon : its fmell fomewhat refcmblc» that of mellow apples, mixed with garlic ; the outer coat is . covered with angular prickles, and contains a nuoiber of feeds» or kernels (which, when roalled, eat like chefnuts) inclofed in a fleihy fubflance, of a rich, but to ilran* geri, too firong a flavour, but which gains upon the taftc. Té ♦ Mangifera inJica. f Articles prefer vcd in vinegari with pepper and other fpices, are called attjar ; beGdes mangos^ the rind of melons, cucumbers^ and in particular the aromatic rooti of the bam* boo-trce, with various other rootS| fruits and vegetables, are made into attjof^ T, 5 The [ *38 ] The fnango^Janges^ or mangofteen *, is efteemed the moil delicicous fruit that is produced in the Indies. It is generally of the fize of an apple, and refembles a pome- granate in appearance» only it is larger ^ and thicker, and its coat is not (b tough. The fruity when ftripped of the outward rind, appears like a little apple, of a fhow-white hue, compofed of fix or feven lobes, of the fize of a joint of a finger, having a black flone in the infidc ; they are very, fbft and juicy, and their flavour is (o delightfully rc- frefhing that it is indefcribable. The tafle fcemed to me, to approach the nearefl to that of the peach ; but it is rather more mel- low to the tafle. The tree which produces it, is about the fize of a common plum-tree. I met with people, who alfured me, they had been cured of a dyfentery of long {land- ing, by eating large quantities of this fruit ; though others were of opinion, that it pro- duced a contrary 'efFeét. The rind has a ftrong aflringent power, and might perhaps be ufed as a dye, for a fine deep red co- lour -f . * Garchiia mmngaHcfia* f The Chinefe ufe the rind of the mangofleeo for dying black. T* Lemon [ 239 ] I^mon * and lime-trees, are here like- wife in great plenty. There is alfo a cer- tain fruit called katappa ^^ which is like our waliiuts, but better tafted. It grows upon a high tree, which affords an agree- able (hade, and is inclofed in a green hufk, in which it lies in rolls, and is as white as milk. Pineapples ij:, are produced in large quan- ties, and are therefore little efteemed at Batavia; they are generally fold for the value of a ftiver (penny) apiece, and fome* times for lefs. Befides thefc, there are many other kinds of fruit, produced upon the ifland, which are too numerous for me to mention here |j. The * Citrus miJica, f Term'malia catappa. X Brwnilia ananas. II The fruits moii worthy ofremark, befides the abovc^ are the following : the pifang,0T bananas (mufa paradtfiaca) of which there are feveral forts, the bed, pifang radfa^ is a de« licious and whoiefome fruit, with a thin coat, and an inner pulpy part, which is fweetifh, and fotnewbat mealy ; it is eaten both raw, and drefled in various ways. The /amim {iugenia mqjtacctnfis)^ which is oi a deep red colour, and oval iliape; tlie largefi are not bigger than a fmall apple; it is pleafant and cooling, though it has not much flavour. The The native inhabitants, are all commonly Called Javanefey whether they belong to the kingdom jamSooe^^mauer (eugenia jambos)^ which both fmelll and taftes like confervc of rofcs. The papaya (earica fttpaya)^ which is as large as a fmall melon, and the ▼ellow pulp within, has nearly the Cuiie taüe. The fweetfop (annona /quamffd), Which confifts of a tnafs of large kernels, from which the furrounding pulp, which is very fweet, and of a mealy nacure, is fucked» The cuftard- apple (annona retictilaia)^ which derives its Ënglifli name from the likenefs which its white and rich pulp bears to a cuftan'i The rambutan (nepbtUum lappaceum), which grows in large cluders, and very much refembles a chcfnut, with the hufk on ; the eatable part is fmall in quantity, but its acid is rich and pleafant, and perhaps more agreeable than any other in the whole vegetable kingdom. The bilimbing (averrboa iel'mbi)^ the bilimbing bjjt (a*verrhoa carambola)^ and the tbgrimelU (averrbüa acid ), which are three fpecies of one genus, and though they differ in (hape, are nearly the fame in tafle ; the firfl is oblong, of the thicknefs of a finger, and fo four, that it cannot be eaten alone ; the bilimbing befTe, is an egglike pentagonal fruit, about the fize of a pear, and is the leafl acid of the three ; the lafl is extremely acid* and of a fmall roundifh, irregular lliape, growing in clufters clofe to the branch, and containing each a iingle feed ; they all make excellent pickles, and four fauce. Thci gua^a (p^dium\ which is well known in the WeR-Indies. The baa bidarra {rhamnus jujuba) which is a round yellow fruit, about the fize of a goofeberry ; its flavour is like that of an apple, but it has the allringency of a crab. The nam nam {cynometra com- lifiora)j which in fhape fomewh t refembles a kidney | it is about three inches long, and the outfide is very rough ; it is feldom eaten raw. The /untul {tricbilia) which) within a t^ck [ «4» 1 kingdom of Bantam^ or to any other part of yava ; thofe of Madura, bear the name of ■ their ifland* They are of a middling fizc, and in general well-proportioned, of a light brown colour, with a broad forehead^ and a flattifh nofe,which has a fmall curve down* wards at the tip. Their hair is black, and is always kept fmooth and ihining, with cocoanut-oiL They are, in general, proud and lazy, as well as cowardly. Their prin- cipal weapon is a iris,- which is a kind of ^dagger, like a fmall-fized couteau de cbajfe^ and which they always carry with them» The handle, or hilt, is made of different ma- terials, more or lefs valuable, according to thick (kin, contains kernels fike thofe of the mangofleen, but which are both*md and aftringent. The m^ja {I^mom)^ which contains^ UQder a hard brittle (hell, a lightly acid pulp» which cannot be eaten without fugar. The /aiac {caUunur rmmtig zalacca)^ which is^the fruit of a prickly bu(h, and has a fingular appearance, being covered with fcales^.Lke thofe of a lizard ; it is nutritious and well tailed, in flavour fome» what refianbling a ftrawberry. The /Me /Mes (filaimm fneluf£ena)f m-hich is of a purple blue colour, in (hape like a pear, and of various fixes ; it has an agreeable tafte when boiled* Watermelons (arhu/es\ which are in great plenty, and vefy good» Grapesi melons, pumpkint, pomegranates, and ^gs, appear to be the only European fruits to be met with at Bmta^m ; though ftrawbcrries, and fome others, are faid to thrive in the interior parts of the country. T, VOL. I. R the the wealth or dignity of the wearef . Tbc blade is of well-hardened fteel, of a ferpen- tine (hape, and thus capable of making a large and wide wound. It is often poifbued, andy in that cafe» cau(es immediate death. Arrogant towards their inferiors, they are no lefs cringing with refpeól to their lii- periors, or whoever from whom they have any favour to expeft. Their drefs confifts in a piece of cotton^ which they wrap round the waift, and draw- ing it between the legs, faften it behitid. They are otherwife naked, except that they jvear a ünall cap on the head. This is the drefi of the common people. Thole of more conlideration, wear a wide Moorifh coat of flowered cotton, or ether ftufF, and in general turbands, inftead of the little caps. They fuffer no hair, but that of the head, to grow, and eradicate it carefully wherever it appears elfewhere. The drefs of the women is little better than that of the men ; it confills in a piece of cotton-cloth, which they call faron^ and which, wrapping round the body, juft covers the bolbm, under which it is fattened, and hangs down to the knees, and Ibmelimcs to I the C H3 ] tlie ancles ; the fhoulders, and part of the back, remain uncovered. The hair of the head> which they wear very long, is turned up, and twiftcd found the head like a fillet, faftened with long bodkins of different forts of wood, tortoifefhell, filver, or gold, ac- cording to the rank or wealth of thé lady. This headdrefs, is called a conJé, and is alio in vogue among the Batavian ladies. It is often likewife adoi-ned with a variety of flowers. Both men and women, are very fond of bathing, elpecially in the morning. The children, of bpth fexes, go entirely naked, till about eight or nine years of age. Twelve or thirteen is their age of puberty. The JaVanefe are polygamies ; they marry as many wives as they can maintain, and take their female flaves, befides, for concu- bines. This, however, of courfe, does not take place with the common " people, who niufl be content with one wife, becaufe they cannot aflbrd to keep more. The women are proportionally more comely than the men ; and they are very fond of white men. They are jealous in the extreme, and know how to make an European, with whom R 2 they t »4+ 1 ihey have had a love-aflairy and who proves inconftant, dearly repent both his incofi- tinence, and his ficklenefs, by adminifter- ing certain drugs to him, by which he h difqualified from the repetition of either. People of the utmoft credibility at Batavia^ have related to me, too many examples of this refinement of female revenge, to render the circumftance at all doubtful. Their dwellings may, with greater pro* priety, be called huts, than houles. They are conftrufted of fplit bamboos, interlaced or matted, plaiftered with clay, and cover- ed with attap^ or the leaves of the cocoa* nut-tree. The eptrance i* low, and is without a door or fïiutten The whole houfe, ufually confifts of but one apartment, in which, hufband, wife, children, and fbme- times their poultry, of which they keep a great many, pig together on the ground. They alway choofe a fliady place to build in, or plant trees all round. Such as póf- fefs more property, are provided with a little more comfort and convenience; but it is always in a wretched, paltry manner. Their chief food is boiled rice, with a little fifh, and their drink, water. They do not, however. ^[ «45 y however, rcjeft a little arrack, Vhen they can obtain it. They are almoft continually chewing betel, or pinangy and likewife a ibrt of tobacco, produced here, and there- fore denominated Java tobacco, which they alfb fmoke, through pipes made of reed;, they fometimes put opium into their pipes with the tobacco, in order to invigorate their fpirits, but the continual ufe of it, rather deadens them ; I faw fome, who had been' too immoderate in this indulgence, who fkt like ftatues, with open, fixed eyes^ and ipeecbleis« ' They have no tables or chairs ; but fit upon the ground, or upon mats, with their legs crofled under them. They do not either make ufe of any knives, forks, or ipoons, but cat with their fingers. They have a certain kind of mufical in- ftrumeuts, called gomgoms, confifting in hoU low iron bowls, of various fizes and tones, upon which a man ftrikes with an iron, or wooden ftick, which do not make a diA agreeable harmony, and are not unlike a fet of bells. They are very fond of cockfighting, for which they keep a peculiar breed. Though R3 they t H« ] thcy jnay bc ever io poor, thiBy will ibonor difpofb of every other part of their property, than fell their gamecocks. They are be- fidcSf obliged to pay a tax to the company for thefe fowls ; and this duty is yearly &rmed at Batavia, and forms part of the revenues of the province of Jaccatra. In the year 1770, it amounted to 420 gilders per month ^; it is» however, only in that province that they are liable to it. A kind of tennis-play, is alio a favourite diverfion among them, and they are very handy and dexterous at it. They Arikê the ball with their feet, knees, or elbows, whither they chufe, and receive it back» thus keeping it for fome time in continual motion, without its touching the ground: the ball is generally of the fize of a man'a bead, hollow, and made of matted reeds. Their manner of falutation, confifts in touching the forehead with the right hand, accompanied by a flight indination of the body. The Mahometan religion, £5 predominant over the whole ifland. It is faid, that far inland, over the mountains, towards the * Aboat 3$/. lot. or 406/. per amnioi, r. ibuth [ a+7 ] Couth fide of the ifland, there are ftill (bme of «he aboriginal iddatr^^us natives to be met with. Mofques, or places of prayer of the M ahomedans» are ereéted all over the iflafid ; there is a ver^ famous one near Cèerüên^ but I did not fee it. They are very parti- cular and nice, about the tombs of their faints» and will fuffer nothing unbecoming to be done, upon or near them ; an inft^nce of which has been already related. They have both male and femaie phy- fictans, who have been knoWn to efft& vtfy furprifing cures, by means of their know- ledge of the medicinal and vulnerary herbd, produced in their country. They have fbme- times greater pra&ice, among the Europeans at Batavia^ than thofe phyiicians, who have been regularly bred, and come over from Europe ; yet, they have no knowledge what- ever of anatomy. Much fridlion of the af- « feded parts, is one of their chief means of cure. This is done with two fingers of the right hand, which are prelfed down by the left, and paffed continually downwards, •after having firft anointed the part with water mixed with fine ground wood, or with oil. R 4 For [ t48 ] For the purpofes of agriculture, they ufe buffaloes, iiiftead of horfes, though there are enough of the laft, but of a diminutive fize. Thefe buffaloes are very large animals, bigger and heavier than our largeft oxen, furtiifhed with great ears, and horns which proje^ ftraigbt forward, and are bent in- wards. A hole is bored through the car* tilage of the ndfe, and thefe huge animals are guided by a cord which is paffed through itt They are generally of an alh-grey colour, and have little eyes. They arc fo accuftomed to be conduced three times a 4ay into the water, to cool thcmfelves, that without it, they cannot be brought to work. The female gives milk, but it is little valued by the Europeans, on account of its acri« moRiofis natqre^ CHAPTER - [ «49 ] CHAPTER III. Batavia. — The River of Jaccatra. — The ff^a* ter-fort. — The Bar at the Mouth of the River. — The Caftle. — Buildings in, and near it. — Walls of the City, — Gates.-^Admiralty-^harf-^ Quarter f or the Workmen — Churches. — Houjes. — Chineje Houfes* — Majfacre of the Chineje, in 174a ^^Ajfejfment on Rents. — Bank of Batavia.—- Suburbs. — The Chitiefe Campon.-^CharaSïer of the Chineje. — Their Appearance. — Drefs. — Religion. — Temples. — Divination. — Tombs. — Environs ef Batavia. — Roads. — Streets. HE city of Batavia^ ftyled by our own, and foreign travellers, who have formerly vifited it, the Queen of the Eaft, on ac* count of the beauty of its buildings, and the immenfe trade which it carries on, is fitu* ated very near the fea, in a fertile plain, in the kingdom of Jaccatra, upon the river 6f that name, which, running through the middle of the town, divides it into two parts. To the north of the city, is the fea- ihore; behind it, to the fouth, the land rifes with a gentle, and fcarcely. perceptible, acclivity up to the mountains, which lie fifteen or fixteen Dutch mile$, or leagues, inland i [ *50 ] inland ; one of thefe, which is very high, bears the name of the Blue mountain. The lingular circum (lances, which gave rife to the building of this city, are too well known in hiftory, and too circumftantially related by Valentyn, that I fliould repeat them here *• I (hall only make mention of ioch changes, as have taken place in the .city, fince the time his work was written • The bed accoant, in the Engliih hnguage, of the found* SdoD and rife of Batd'viM, is to be found in the Modern UnU ▼cnal Hiftory, vol. x, page 304, &c. This is compiled from ValbmttkU great work, entitled Oiui em Nieuw Oojf^ Jndèi^ and from other Dutch writers. Jt was in 1619» that the governor general* John Putkesbv CoaVf took thé town of Jauatra^ which he in a great meafure defiroyed, and founded another city, not exaélly on the fame fpot, but irery near it, to which he gave the name of Batavinj though it if &id, that he much wiihed to have called it Ntw Honr^ from the place of his nativity, Horm in North Holland. Al- though then an incondderable place^ in point of ftrength and l)taaty, he declared it the capital of the Dutch iettlements in India ; his choice of the (ituation was fo juft, his phn fo well contrived, and every thing throve fo hü under his care, that BéUavia rofe with unparalleled rapidity to that magnificence and importance, which have rendered it, both the admiratiota and Ae dread, of all the more eaftern nations of the Indies; and which dill dazzle and overawe them, although the citjf^ has» for thefe laft fifty years, grcatty declined, both as to opulence and population. T. (1726); i ^5' ] (1726) ; at leaft, in fo far as I had oc^afioa to obfervc them. The city is an oblong fquare, the fliorteft fides facing the north aad fouth, and tbfi longeft the eaft and weft. Through the middle of the city, from ibuth to north, runs, as before faid, the ri« ver of yaccatra^ over which there are .thr«# bridges, one at the upper end of the town^ another at the lower part, near the caftle, and the third about the middle, heing thence called the Midd/epoint bridge. Two of tbeüb wrc built of ftone. Clofe by the middlemoft, there is a large f^uare redoubt, provided with fome pieces of cannon, which com- mand the river, both ujp and downwards. The breadth of the river, within the city, is about 1.60 or 180 feet. It runs into the (ea^. paft the caftle and the admiralty- wharf. On both fides of the mouth, are long piers, of wood and brick-work, about 3,800 feet in length, taken from the moat of the city. The eaftern pier, which was repaired, and in a great meafure rebuilt, a few years ago, coft the Company 36,218 rixdollars in timber, and 36,320 rixdoUars in mafbnry, making, at forty-eight ftivers, C 25a ] yi 174^09 1> 4.^$ which isy ïtï faék, a large fom, when it be confidered, that the timber cofts the Company but little^money, as it is produced^ in abundaiKe» in yava-. The vcflels belonging to the free mer- chantSy are laid up/ and repaired, between thefe piers, on the weft fide ; "but along tl» eaft fide, the païlage remains open, for the lighters, which, go in and out of the citj, with the cargoes óf the fhips. At the outward point of the eaftern pier» there is a ihed, which ferves for a ihd^le for the hories, which draw the fmall veileis ftnd boats up and down the river. Oppofite to this, is a hornwork, com- monly called the fFater-Fort, which was built during the government of the governor general Van Imhoff, at an immeofe ex» pence to the Company; for feverftl large ihips were obliged to be funk, on account of the depth of water on the fpot, in order to lay a good foundation, for building the fort« It is conftrucled of a kind of coral-rock, and defended by ieveral heavy camion 4** It ^ About 16,000 /. ftcrlJng. T. f In 1793, when Lord. Mac a at nby vifited Baiinna^ this fort bad, mounted and difmountcd, fourteen guns and two liowitzars. T. has [ «53 1 kas barracks within it^ for the garri£>n ; and there is no other approach to it^ than along the weftern pier. It is at prefent very much out of renair» and the walls begin to iink and fall down» in many places. . The objeéls for which this fort was ereöed, Teem to have been^ the defence of the road, and of the entrance of the river ; yet^ in boththefe refpefts, it is now of little ad van- tage, for the anchoring- place is now fo far removed from this fortification, by the en- creafe of the mudbank, which lies before the river, that,- although its guns might reach the ihips in the road, little damage could be done, on either fide, at fuch a di{^ tance *; and as to what regards the defence of the river's mouth, that is of very trifling importance ; for the daily and continual en* creafe of the bar, renders the water much too fhallow for large veffels, and an enemy would never fèek to efFeft a landing there^ but would always prefer an eafv, firm, fea- \ * Ary HuYSBRa, who^wrote an account of the Dutch fettlements in India* in 1789, and had been at Bataifia a few years before, fays, that, in his time, a trial had been made of the heavy artillery at the mouth of the harbour, and that it was found fufficient to command and protect the whole extent of th^ roadf 71 beach| [ ^54 ] beach, iiich as is to be met With beyon** A Ktde <* above was the ^jift-e ; a xeguiar, fquare fort, but withogt ** ravelins or other outworks. It bad two guns mounted on ** each iank, and twQ, or foroetimes three, on each face; ** they were not en barbette^ nor properly en mhrafwn^ but ia ** a (ituation between both, having both thdr diiadvanta^;es, *^ without the advantages of either. The wall was of ma* *' fonry, about twenty foui- feet high* It had no ditch, but ^ a canal furrounded it at feme diftance. It had no cordon. '* The length of the exterior fide of the work was about 700 *' feet.'* Some further particulars, both of the town and of Ibe cafile, are given in Mr. STAVoatNva's fecohd voyage. 71 ufually [ ^n 3 ti(yal)y calkd the Caftle-churcht and a little tnore forwards, is a córps^de-gardcf where a party of dragoons always mount guard. Over the caftle-bridge there is a great plain, or fquare, planted with tamarind- trees, which afford a very agreeable (hade. The entrance to it from the city, is oyer a bridge, and through a hrge and (lately gate. This is mounted by a bold cupola, iQ-om which an odagon turret rifes, containing a large clock, which is the only public one to be met ^ith at Batavia. It was built under the government of Baron Van Imhof, as appears by an inicription over the gateway, and fbrms no. trifling embellifhmeut of the city. On the left fide of the gate, is a large building, which ferves as a corps-de-garde, - having in front a long gallery, refting upon a row of pillars. A captain's guard of grc* nadiers, are generally pofted here. On the weft fide of the fquare, ftand the Company^s artillery-houfe, and the difpen* (ary, or provifion-magazine, both of which reach behind, to the river fide, fo that the goods are taken in and out of the lighters, with the greateft eafe. This is an advan- VOL. I. s tage [ »58 J Cage which is pofieflcd by almoft all the Company^s warehoufes and repofitories in Batavia. On the oppofitc fide^ is the iron-maga« zine, and what is termed the grafs-plat, being the place of execution for criminals : thi^ is an artificial fquare eminence, upon which there is a gallows, and fome pofls, be* hind it is a fmall building, with windows, looking towards the place of execution, whence the counfellors of juftice behold the completion of their fentences*. There are a number of pieces of artillery^ both iron and brafs, and of all forts and fizcs, together with other warlike imple* ments, ranged upon the plain. Any one may ride through the gate we have juft men- tioned, as far as the drawbridge of the caftle, but not over it, unlefs he have the rant of fenior merchant,' or higher. The city is encircled by a wall of coral- » It 18 cudomary throughout Holland, and' its depend* encies» for the nuigiftrates, or judges, who have pafled fentence upon criminals, to prefide at the execution of it. This is, in Europe, generally done upon fome open place before their townhalls, from the windows of which, the magiftrate?, dreflcd jn their robes of ceremony, behold the execution. T. rock. I «59 ] rock ♦, defended by twenty- two baftions, or bulwarks, all provided wLh artillery, and furrounded by a broad moat, in which there is feldom any want of water^ that being' cïonvcyed into it out of the river. Batavia has five gates ; one at the eafl fide, which is called the Rotterdam gate; two to the (buth, the New gate, and the Die^ gate; one to the weft, the Utrecht gate ; and one on the north fide^ to the weft of the river, called the Square gate. Near to the laft-mentioned gate, and oppo- fitc to the caftle, is the admiralty-wharf; and not far off, th« warehoufes for naval ftores, as likewife the workftiops of the car- penters, coopers, failmakers, and fmiths, with other offices that relate to the (hipping. Here are alfo the houfcs of the com- mandants, and comptrollers of equipments who were formerly obliged to refide upon the wharf; but for fome years paft, this re- gulation has not been obferved, and they now live in other, and more pleafant, parts of the town. ♦ Sir Gborgb SxAüntoK fays, that part of the town-wall is conftru6ted of lava, which is of a dark blue colour, of a very hard, denfe texturcj emits a metallic found, and rcfcmbles very much fome of the bva of Vcfuvius. T. S 2 In [ aóo ] In the (butheaft corner of the cky, eloic to the ramparts, lies what is calkd the Ambagtjkwartiery or the workmen^s quw- ter, in which all the mecluuüc& and labour- ers» who are employed by the Company \a their buildings, have their abode. The journeymen work here, under mailers of their re(pe£tive trades, carpenters, fmiths, plumbers, braziers, mafons, and others, who^ are all accountable to the chief of the quar« ter, who is called ^i^ra^i, or head work- man, and has generally the rank of merchant. Befides a great number of Evropeaits, who are* employed here, there are full a tboufand fiaves, who belong to this quarter, by which the Company incurs an enormous expence, with little benefit from their labour, which generally turns to the advantage of indivi- dual members of the government. There are three churches for the re- formed religion, within the city, in which fervice is performed in the Dutch, Portu- guefe, and Malay languages, and one with- out the gates, which is called the outer Portuguefe church. Befides thefe, there is a Lutheran church, which was built during the government of Baron Van Imhof, not far [ «6. 3 Ikr (rem the caftle ; this laft is provided with a fine organ, and a very handfome pulpit. The town-hall, and other public build- ings, arc circumftantially dcfcribcd by Va- LENTYN, and I fhall not, therefore, make further mention of them. The houfes at Batavia^ are moftly of brick, rua up in a light and airy manner, and ftuccoed on the outiide, with fafli win- dows« Within, they are almoft all built upon a fimilar plan,, the fronts being, in ge« neral, narrow, though there are a few that are more extended. On entering the door, there is a narrow paflage, and on one fide a parlour, then you come into a large and long room, that re- ceives its light from an inner court, which trenches upon this apartment, and renders its form irregular. This is called the gal- lery, and is the place where the family ufually live, and dine. The floors are of large, (quare, dark red ftones. No hatiei^gs are to be feen ; but the walls are neatly ftuccoed, and whitened. The furniture confifts in, fome armchairs, two or three fofas, and a great many löoking-glaffes, which the Europeans, in thefe regions, are s 3 very [ 26s 1 very fond of. Several chandeliers and lamps, aie hung in a row, along the length of the gallery, which are lit up in the even- jng. The ftairs leading to the upper rooms^ are generally at the end of this apartments Six or feven fteps up, there is one which ftands over the ftoreroom, or cellar, in which the ftock of wine, beer, butter, &c* is kept. Up ftairs, the houfes are diftri* butcd ajmoft fimilarly as below. They are, in general, but poorly provided with fwrni* ture ; and the fetting out of rooms in order, is not fb much in vogue here, as in Holland : nothing is added that is fuperfluous, or rnore than is wanted for u(è. Behind the gallery, are the lodgings for thé flaves, the kitchen, &c, There arc but few houfes, which .have gardens, contrary tp what Salmon erra* neoufly aflerts, in his Prefent Stat f of all Nations \ and there are not even (he leaft veftiges left, of then? having ever been gar*» dens behind the houfes. In feveral, th^ windows ?ire clofed with a lattice- work of rattaiiS| in the room of being glared, for th^ fake of alr^ The above relates only to the houfes of IguropeanSf which ^re t|ie greateft in nun^^ [ %63 ] ber. The few Chinefe, who live at prcfent within the city, have very wrctcl^ed houfcs, the infide of which is very irregularly diftri- buted. Moft of them dwell in thé fouthem and weftern fuburbs, which are called the Chinefe Campon. Before the revolt of the year 1 740, they had the beft quarter of the city allotted to them, to the weft of the great river ; but when, in that commotion, all their houfes were burnt to the ground *, the whole * Sevend relations have been given to the public, at dif- ferent times, of the horrid tranfadion here alluded to ; of .which the nroft circumftantial is in the Modtm Uuiverfal Hif- tmy^ b. jciv, chap. 7. No two, however, agree; and the fol- lowing account, extraé^ed. from a very recent and intelligent Duteh writer, Aav Huyssts, who was long refident at Ma- tavia^ may therefore not be unacceptable. It is to be found in his Life tf Reimicr de Kltrkf 1788.—'* A. little before the ^ perpetration of this maflacre, feveral thoufand Chinefe ad- ^' venturers and fortune-hunters had reforted to Batmtia^ aU ^ lured by the profperity of their countrymep already fettled ^ there. The |;reat number of thefe new colonics, together ** irith the robberies and murders which were committed by ^ them, excited no little degree of juft appreheniion. The ^ famous Van Imhof, who was, at that time, a member of ^ the council, propofed, in order to get rid of thefe ufelefs '' and dangerous new-comers» that every Chinefe who could ^ Boc prove that he had an honefi livelihood, ibould be ^ feised, and tranfported to C^lmt^ there to be employed in ^ mining, or other labour, for the fervide of the Company. S 4 •♦ Thtt \ C ^«4 1 ^ whole quarter was made into a pafar^ or market» where» at prefent, all kinds of pro* vifions arc every day expofed to fale. The ^ This advice was approved of, and immediately followed. •* A great number of Chinefe were feized, and put in irons ; ^* but imprudently feveral Chinefe of property were fecured *< by the undeiwofficcrst charged with the execution of the *' order, and were only liberated on paying large fums of <' monev". This eccafioned great murmurings, and led the ^ reft of the nation to credit a report which was fpread abroad, ** that thofc who were unable to py, would be drowned ,or other* ^ wife put to death. They in confequence retired, by thoufands, ** from t he city , towards the interior parta, and ftrengtheoed them* '^ fei ves fo much, as to render the late of Bataw^ it&lf precarious. ^ In tbb diltmma, the council firft offered an amnefty to the *' difcontented Chinefe, but this they rejeded with {com; ^^ and purpofing to exterminate the whole cbriAian fcttlement» *< began by ravaging the country in the wildeft. manners '< burning the {ugar-works> and marching down to the gates •* of the city. Here, however, they met with a fe^crc rebuff. *^ The civil and military inhabitants united in repelling them» ^ and drove the rebels back again into the country. During <* thcfe commotions, the Chinefe who refided within the town ** kept themfelves perfe^Iy quiet ; and in order that thefe in* ^ nocent people might not be eatpofed to infult, the govern* ** ment ii!bed an order, pyohi biting them from leaving their *^ houfes, after fix o'clock in the evening» and ordering them t* to keep their doors ihut. This prudent precaution was not^ *< however, üifficient to proteél them from the fury of ü^ *^ irritated foldiery and Tailors, who were in the city, and had >^ witneffed the devafiations of the Cliinefe wiJuHit the f^les, ^ On a fudden, and unexpededly, an inilantapeoiif cp[y of ^ murder and horror, refounded through the town, and the •* moft I «65 1 The poundage, or aflefTment, ' which is jmid annually by every houfc, coiilifts in half «* mod difmal fcene of barbarity and rapine, prcfented itfelf ^ on ail (ivies. AU the Chinefe, without dlfiioélion, men» ^ woment and chUdmn^ were pot to the {word. Neither '* pregnant womeny nor fucking infanUi were fpared by the '' relentlefs aflaflSns. The prifoners in chkins^ about a hun* *' dred in number, were, at the fame time» flaughtered like ** (heep. Europeao citiccfns» to whom feme of the wealthy ** Chjnefe had fled for (afety, violating every principle of '* humanity and morality» ddivered them up to their (an- ^ guinary purfuen» and embezsied the property confided to ^ them. In ihort, all the* Cbinefe» guiky and innocent^ '< were exterminated. And whence did the barbarous, order, " by which they fuffered, emanate? Here a veil has in- •* duflrioudy been drawn, and the troth will probably never ** be known, with certainty. The governor general, Vai,- ** XBViSRt and his brother in-law, Hsi.vKTius, were ac* ^ cufed by the public voice, of direding the maflacre; but it •* was never proved upon them." It is remarkable, that^ when Valkenibr was afterwards condemned to impriibn* jnent for life, at Butttvia^ among the numerous charges brought againft him for maleadminiftration during his govern, ment) no notice was taken of his prefumed inllrumentality la this dreadful maflacre. Much apprehenlion was entertained that thb ccoirience would excite the indignation of the empe* for of China, and deputies were fent to him the following year, to apologifie for the meafure. The letter written to the emperor on the occaflon, is given at length by Huysais ; the only 'remarkable circumftance in which it dülers from the above relation, is the allegation, that fome Chinefe within the dty had fet Are to it in difierent places, and were preparing ta rife upon the Europeans $ bat the exteronnatioa of tbc ioao* ctnt [ 266 ] half a month*s rent. This money is ex- pended^ in dragging and cleanfing the ^ canals, and in repairing the townhal), and other buildings belonging to the city. Per- miflion muft be requefted, every year, of the Company's government to levy this affefT- ment, in behalf of the city, which is feldom refufed. The houfes are not let by the year, but by the month; the rents run from five to forty rixdoUars per month. A good houfe, in zn agreeable fituation, may be hired for twenty or twenty-five rixdollars *. The churches are repaired out of the duties levied upon funerals. A bank of circulation, has been eftabliih- ed here for fome years, which is united with the lombard, or bank for lending mjoney on pledges. It is under the adminiftrat;on of a direélor, who is generally a counfellor of cent with the guilty is acknowledged, and attempted to be excufed on the plea of neceility. Thcfe deputies were agree* ably furprifed on finding that the emperor calmly aufwoned» that ** he was little ibiicitous for the fate of unworthy fubjcds, '^ ** who, in the purfuit of lucre» had quitted their country, 7 *' and abandoned the tombs of their anceftora." 71 ^ * A rixdollar, at Bata has a profeflioQ^ is obliged to pay a monthly poll*tax of half a ducatooa*; women, children» and tbofe who have no trade, are exempted from the tax: fo that their number can only be gueffed at. They are under a chief of their own nation, who is known by the appella- tion of Chinefe Captain ; he lives within the walls, and has fix lieutenants under him^ in different diftri6b. A flag is hoifled at his door, on the firft or Iccond day in every month, and the Chinefe liable to the tax^ are then obliged to come to him, to pay it. Like the Jews in Europe, they are very cunning in trade, both in the largeft deal- ings, and in the moft trifling pcdlery. They are fodefirous of money, that a Chinefe will run three times from one end of the city to the other, if he have but the profpeft of gaining one penny. In doing any bufineis with them, the greateft care muft be taken, to avoid being cheated. Their flature is rather fhort than tall, and they are, in general, tolerably fquare. They ^ A ducatooa is fA ftlveni or 6#. ficrliog^ f • arc t ^9 J are not fo brow» as tte Javanefe ^They fhave their heads all roncuf, Tcaving a bunch of hair» on the middle of the crown, which is twiiled with a ribbon^ and hangs down the back« Their drefs confiib in a long robe of nankeen, or thin (ilk, with wide fleevesi, and tt&d» it they wear drawers of the iame, which cover their legs» In every hoofe, there is a niche, or place, «here the image is hung up, of one of their jaojijes^ or idols, painted on Chinefe paper. Before it they keep one or more lamps, always burning, as alio, a kind of incenfe, which is made into little thin Xz^ pers. This idol is generally depiéled as an old man, with a fquare cap upon his head, «üd a female, defigned for his wifej next to him* About an hour's walk out of the city, juft beyond Fort AnspU they have a temple, ftanding in a grove of cocoanut* trees, by the fide of a rivulet, and in the midft of a moft pleafant fcenery. The build- ing is about twenty feet in length, and twelve or thirteen in breadth. The en- trance is through a railing, into a fmall area, and then into a hall, behind which is the fan6hiary. In the middle, juft with- in C *7ö 1 m tt^e door, is a large altar, ori whieh tapers, made of red wax, are kept burnings sight and day. There is al(b an image of a lion, richly gilt. In a niche behind tha altar, are reprefentations of an old man and xvoman, both with crowns upon their heads, and about two feet in height, which are their idols ; and as they look upon their joofije to be an evil fpirit, they continually fuppltcate him, not to do them any harm. In their adorations, they proftrate themfelves before him, and endeavour to exprefs the awe and reverence they entertain, by ftriking their head continually againft the ground. They likewife confult their idol, when they are about any important undertaking. This divination is done, by means of two iinall longitudinal pieces of wood, flat on one fide, and round on the other. They hold thefe with 'the flat fides towards each other, and then, letting them fi&U on the ground, augur of the efFeÖ of their pray- ers, and the good or bad refult of their pur* pofed enterprize, by the manner in which they lie, with the round or flat fides up- wards. If the prefage be favourable, they offer a wax- caudle to their god, which the prieft. [ *7i ] prieft» or bonze, who attends at the temple^ immediately turns into readj money. In this temple I faw a Chinefe, who let thefe little fticks fall, above ^twenty times before they promifed him fuccefs : he feem* cd to be but very little pleated with thefe repeated evil prognoAications, and fhaking his head, at every time, with a moft dis- contented look, he threw himfelf upon the ground, and thumped his head againft itt till at lad, the omen proved agreeable to his wiflies ; and he then joyfully lighted a thick wax-candle, and placed it upon the altar of his joojije. Befides this temple, the Chinefe have fcveral others, which are tolerated by the government ; but it is worthy of obferva- tion, that whilft the pradice of the moft abominable idolatry is allowed, the exerciie of the Roman Catholic religion is obftinately prohibited. The Chinefe are of a very luftful tem- per. They are accufed of the moft detefta- ble violations of the laws of nature ; and it is even faid, that they keep fwine in their houfes, for purpofes the moft ihameful and repugnant. Their C v^ 1 Their tombs, on which they expend a great deal of motley^ are partly built above^ and partly under ground» They are arched over. The entrance^ which is made like a doorway^ is clofed with a large ftone, cover-* ed with engraved Cbiiiefe ktters. They are to be feen in great numbers, about half an hoiir^s walk frcMn Batavia^ on the road to ^ yaccatra. They vifit the graves of their aiiceftors and relations, from time to time: they ftrew them with odoriferous flowers; and when they depart» they leave a few fmall pieces of filk or linen> before the entrance, and fbmetimes boiled rice, or other viéluals; which is fpecdiiy.made away with at night* The environs of Batavia arc very pleafant, and are almoft every where, interfèéired with rivulets, oy which the circumjacent rice- plantations, are inundated, and fertilized in the proper feafon. There are five principal roads, which lead from the city, towards the country, aad which are all planted with high and ihady trfes. That which runs to the eaftward, to Amj^l and the feacoaft, is laid along the fide of a X rivulet. [ ^73 ] rivulet, the ftream of which running down an imperceptible flope, is very flow, which makes it refetnble the canals for inland na- vigation, in Holland. Both fides of it, are adorned w^ith gardens ; but they are begin- ning to be ncgleöed, fave one or two, be- longing to the direftor general. At no great diftance from the feaihore, whither this road finally leads, there is an oyfterbed ; and on the beach (lands a houfe of entertainment, which is refbrted to by the Europeans, for the purpofe of eating this ihellfifli. The (econd road has the appellation of the Mango-doa^ from its having been formerly planted with a double row of mango- trees. This runs more (buth than the former one, and farther inland. Along this road there are likewife many gardens, but they are irone of them fo fplendid and pleafant a& thofe which border and embelli(h the road to Jaccatrai for there, the fineft pidture that can be conceived, prefents itfelf to the de- lightf^ eye, both with refped to the grandeur of the buildings, and the elegance of the grounds. Moft of the houfes belonging to them, have their fronts towards the road, and VOL. I. T from [ *74 1 from th« bjieki-óoms they have a profpeÖ of thé river oiyaccatra. This road is nearly two hundred feet broad, and is clofely planted with trees. Ï do not know, that I ever beheld a more de- lightful avenue. It terminates at. a fmall fort, which is called Jaccatray fttuated about half a Dutch mile from Batavia^ and though the road is continued, thence to VTelttoreedeny the country-feat of the governor general, and beyond it farther into the country, it afibmes, on the other fide of Jaccatra^ the name of Goenong Sari. The fourth, is called the Moïenvtiet, or Mill-drain, becaufe part of the vrater of the great, or Jaccatra^ river^ is diverted through a channel, along this road, for the purpofe of turning a powdermill, which ftands fcarcely ten minutes', walk from the'city. The road leads along the canal, for full half a. Dutch mile up the country, and is equally adorned on both fides, with handfome houfes, and plca- fant gardens. It then proceeds to Ta?t&bangy where a large market is held every Saturday, for all kinds of provifions, which are brought thither from the interior parts. r The fifth road leads through thcOhinefe f ^7S ] Campm^ aUb along a river, to Fort Ankay^ and is, in like manner, bordered on both fides with gardens. None of thefe roads, nor any of the ftreets in the city, are paved; the ground confifts of a hard clay, which is made very fmooth and plain; only in the city, along the fides of the ftreets, by the houfes, are ftone footpaths, of about three or four feet in breadth *• ^ The Aiceti and canals, at B^iavta^ are piaaled on each fide with large trees; generally the mupbyütm calopbylbm and caUba^ the toMrimn commume^ and fome others ilill fcarccr. T. T 2 CHAP- z^b ] CHAPTER IV. Gtrvemment of Batavia. — Council of India.-^^ö* vemor General, — LireSfor General. — C unJeUors of India. — Council of Jvflice. — Board of Scheepens. --^ Punijhmenis.—Tmfalement. •«- Mt4cks. **— Orphan- Chamber. — Society for the Opium-Trade. — Chief of the Marine^r^Commandant and Upper Comp^ troller of Equipment. — Vice- Commandant. — AG//- tary. — Militia. — Of Ranks and Precedency. — Sumptuary Laws.— ^Oergy men* — Coins. — fFeigb's. ^^Meafures. HE chief government of Batavia^ and of all the poffeflions of the Dutch Eaft-In- dia Company in Afia, is vefted in the coun- cil of India, with the governor general at their head. This council confifted, when I was there» befides the direftor general, of five ordinary couniellors, including the governor of the Cape of Good Hope^ nine extraordinary coun* fellors, and two fecretaries. Five of the extraordinary counfellors, were governors of the out-fa6lories of Java's Nortbeajl Coajl^ Coromandely Amboyna^ Cey- lon^ and Macafer. This C V7 ] This council determines afFairs, of every kind, thofe which relate to the adminiftra- tion of juftice alone excepted. Yet in civi matters, an appeal may be made from the ieutence of the council of juftice, to the council of India. All appointments and promotions to offices, are effefted by the council .of India^ not excepting that of the governor general ; but this muft be confirmed by the affembly of feventeen, in the Netherlands *. The * EcckHaiHcal preferments, an4 the appointment of the minifters of juftice, proceed immediately Ax>m the direétion in Holland. In the coupcU of India, the governor and director general, and the five ordinary counfellors, alone, conclude vpon moft matters that are brought before them ; the other nine members are properly only aiTeiïbrs, who may give their advice, but have no votes, except in the quefiion of war or peace with the Indians, in the pardoning of criminals con* demned to death, in the eleftion of a governor general, and in a few other important points. The pewcr and influence of this body in the Indies, are unbounded. It is the reprefenta- tive of the ftate, and of the Company, and millions of Indians are fubjcd to its fway. Kings and princes» are crowned and dethroned by its mandates. ^ I have been witnefs,*' fays Aav HuT»ER&f a writer, to whom we have before had oc* cafion to refer. '' to the depofition of two powerful kings of ■ *' the MoIucca\ and tht hereditary prince of Tid^re. One of « thefe died miferably in a little village, near the place of my #4 rcfidence. I faw the venerable old man before his death ; T$ *ibe [ ±7% 3 The authoritj óf thé governor gcncrtil is altnoft unbounded) and although he is obliged to give cognizance to the council, and cf the Dutch Company orer the natiTC princeS| are re* lated In die pit&nt work. T. * By the fecond article of the oath taken by the goTcrnor genend, as likewife by the oounfelion of India, on their ap» pointment, they engage ^ nerer to receive any gpfts or prefents, ** directly or indireAly, from any one under their authority I <* neitftier in refpeft, or in die hope, or expeftation thereof, ♦* nor of any advantage, 6vour, or other private confidera- •* ration, cither of relationfhip, friendihip, or otherwife, to ap- << point, or caufe to be appointed, any other individual to an ^' office, place, or flation, than fuch as they believe and find '* to poifefs the moft experience, the moft integrity, the moft •* fidelity, and the moft ability, for the fame," So much do , snen regard oaths ! T* means [ *79 3 means of tornoenting them, in every way» un^r various pretences j aay, pf femjing them prilbners to Europe: as was done> with refped to M. M. Van Imhof, de Haaze, and Van Schdinen, in the year 1740, by the governor geiM^ral Valke* NiEE *• As, therefore, thofe who are im- mediately next to him in rank, depend upon, and ftand in awe of him, it follows, that the fervants of the Company, who ore in inferior (lations, feel ftill deeper reverence, and tremble before him, as in the prefence of one, from whofe arbitrary will and power, their happinefe or mifery wholly de- pends : the flaviih iubmiflion with which his commands are received and executed, i$, in confequence, fcarcely credible; for how is it poffible that freeborn Hollanders, fliould bow themfelves ü> low, beneath the igno- minious yoke ! His excellency the governor general, at prelent, ufually r^fides at his country feat, * Valkeniex, who was the perfonal enemy of the ^bove gentlemen, tyr^oiiically ebfifed his authority in (o far» that when the council of India refufed to fanélion this arbitrary mcafure, he furrounded the council -table with a body of armed men, iind tkiis conlbaiaed them to aAèat to his wifhes. T. T 4 called [ ^8o ] called Weltevreeden^ about an hour and a quarter's walk from Batavia^ and which m a fuperb manlion. He gives public audience here, ^ every Monday and Thurfday; and on Tueflays, and Fridays, at another feat» fituated nearer to the city, on the Jaccatra road. On the other days of the week, he is inacceffible to every body, and can not be ipokeu to, unle6 on affairs of the gre^teft importance and urgency* Nobody goes thither, without having fome buiinefs to call him; for it would be taken extremely ill, if any one was to pay a vifit of mere ceremony. The time of audience is from fix o^clock in the morn- ing till eight. Every one w^its, in the open air, in the court, before the houfe, till he is called in by one of the body-guards. When the governor rides out, he is always accompanied by fome of his horfe-guards. An officer and two trumpeters precede his approach, and every perfon who meets him, and happeps to be in a carriage, muft (lop, and ftcp oyt of it, till he has rode by *• A com- * This humUiating homage, as VftVi as that paid to the fdili biit^n^ or counfeUors of India, as wiV be prefcntly nodccd. I «8i J A company of dragoons always mount guard at Weltevreeden. He has bcfides fomc halberdiers, who are employed in carrying meiTages and commands, and who always are attendant on the governor's perfon^ wherever he goes. They are dreired ki are equally required from foreigners. Tbe& ceremonies are generally complied with by the captains of Indiamen, and other trading fliips; «* but,** (ays Captain CAKiEtBT, who was at Batavia^ in X768» ^ having the honour to bear hit ^ majefty*t commiffion» I did not think myfelf ac liberty t^ <* pay to a Dutch governor, any homage which is not paid *< to my own fovereign : it is, however» conftantly required *• of the king's officen ; and two or^hree days after my arri- ^ val» the landlord of the hotel where I lodged told met •* he had been ordered by iht fl>ihandar^ to let me know that ^ my carriage, as well as others, muft fiop, if I ihould meet ^ the governor, or any of the coundl ; but I de&ed him to ■< acquaint the Jbtbandm-^ that I could not confent to perform " any* fuch ceremony ; and upon Iris intimating fomething «< about the black men with iUcks, who precede the approach *< of thefe great men, I told him» that if any infult fhould bé ** offered me» I knew how to defend myfelf, and wouM take ^ care to be upon my guard, at the fame time» pointing to my '* piftols, which happened to lie upon the table \ upon this he ^ went away, and about three hours afterwards returned, and *< told me he had orders from the governor to acquaint me,' ^ that I might do as I pLeafed." Since that time, the Sngiifli officers, have never been required to comply with this degrad- ing cuftom; yet when they have been in an hired carriage, npthing has deterred the coachman from flopping and alight- ing, in honour of the Dutch grandee, but the moft peremp* (ory menace of immediate death. T. fliort i 282 J fliort coats of fcarlct cloth, richly laced with gold, and follow in rank upon the junior en« fign in the Company's fcrvice. When his excellency enters the church, all perfons, both men and women, the coun* fellors of India not excepted, ftand up, in token of refpeö *. His lady receives the fame honours, and is equally efcorted by a party of horfe-guards, when flie rides out. The governor general, who was in office at that time, was Mr. Peter Albert Van DER Parra, a native of Colombo^ the chief fettlement of the Dutch in Ctyhn. He was a man, inimical to all pomp, and in this reipeé^ very different from moft of his predecef- fors. He was remarkably temperate, gene- rally drinking pure water, and feldom taking any wine or beer. He was commonly oc- cupied the whole day ; and when he did HOC ailiftat the council- table, he was elected with his fecretary and clerks. The direöor general, who is the cldeft counfellor of India, is the next in rank. The direótion and controul, over the trade of the * This etiquette was aboiiflied upon the acceffion of R. bs Klekk to the government in 1777, as appears {n the fe- quel. 7*. I Company, C a83 ] Compauy» throughout all India» aod to Eu* ropc, together with every thing that relatei to it, is exclufively entruftcd to him. The governor general does not in the leaft meddle in thefe matters, if the dire^or have but the needful ability. Next in order, follow the ordinary and extraordinary councellors of India. '^ Thofe who reüde at Batsvta^ are alio ufually pre- iklents of didTerent boards or courts* Every counfellor of India» has likewife the corref* poodeace with one of the out^faftories, aU lotted to hinEi; the general himfelf has that of one or two fettlements» and no one is excufed» in this refped» but the diredor, on account of his naultifarious other avocations. Although every member of the"* council, lies under this obligation, there are but ïtW of them, who take the trouble of the charge upon themfeives ; moft of them caufe it to be efFeded by perfons of a lower rank ; and the beft iiiftitutions arc thus perverted by ielfilhnefs and floth. When a counfellor of India, or his lady, enters a church, all the men Aand up, in the fame manner as for the governor gene-* raly.butthe women remain fitting. On • meeting [ 284 ] meeting one of them in a carriage, every ix)dy mufl ftop, rife up» and bow to them» and ftay till they are gone by. When they go out, they have two Oaves, who run before them with fticks, while other people are al- lowed but one. There are always two fecretaries of the government, who take down in writing, all the proportions, or re(blution&, which have been difcufled in the council, and lay them before the governor general, when the af- fembly is broke up. He examines them, and gives direóiions what is to be made into decrees, and what is only to be inferted in the journals for notification. The refolu* tions being then drawn up in writing, by the firft fecretary, they are again prefented to the governor, who makes fuch alterations in them as he thinks fit ; and at the enfuing fefBon of the council they are read over, and approved. The falary of a cotinfellor of India, is a thoufand rixdollars per annum ; befides which he has fix hundred rixdollars for houferent, feven hundred for his trouble in figning difpatches, three hundred towards providing his table, together with a confide- rable C »«5 3 fable alloM^nce of proviiïons from the Coqi-» pany's warchoufes. Taking every thing together, he can reckon upon a yearly in- come of four thoufand rixdollars^ or nine thoufand fix hundred gilders *. Befides the above, the firft iecretary has the emoluments attending the making out of the commif- fions, which do not amount to a trifle» ef^ pecially when n)any appointments of go* vernors, diredors, or commandants occur, who pay liberally for their commiflions; ibaietimes giving fees to the amount of a thoufand rixdoUars. Yet none of them can fave any thing from this income, which they amply want for their houfehold expences; for which reafon, they are generally favour- ed with the government or direftorlhip of an out-iettlement, after they have been three o^ 'four years in the council. The private fccretary of the governor general, is ulually promoted to be fecretary to the council, upon a vacancy. Thirty-fix or forty clerks, are daily em- ployed in the fecretary's office, which is next to the goverament-houfe, in the caflle* « About 875/. fteriing. 71 They [ i96 J They have, for the moll part, the rank of junior merchants; nevertheleft, they are aot able to earn more than a hare fufficiency to fuhfift on. Juftke is adminiftered to the fervants of the Company »by an aflemUy, having the appeüa^ tion of council of juftkc. This body is» by its conftitution, independent of the council oT India ; but as the members of which it con* £fh, have equally many wants and wühes to be fulfilled, they likewife endeavour to be near the fountain-head of promotion and advantage; and, as well as all others, ^-* low the inclinations of their fovereign ruler» in all cafes that are brought before them. This council confifts of a prefident,who ranks next to the junior counfellor of India, ^ight ordinary members, and two adjutors, taken from the Company's lervants. Their &• lary is, as I was informed, no more than two thoufand two hundred rixdoUars ; which is fcarcely fufficient for the fupport of their efhiblifhments : they are, befides, obliged to fcrve the office of counfellor of juftice, for the ipace of ten years, before they may Ije can« didates for any other office. There are two fifcals belonging to this council, t «87 ] eouttcil, one of which bears the title gf ad«« vocat^efifcaly or attorney general, but whofe office relates only to the perfons in the Com* pany's fervice, both by iea^ afid by land* The other is ftiled the^ water-fiical, and through whom, all indiélnients relative to navigation are made. This was fornierly one of the moft lucrative emfJoymeots of all India^ and it is flill very advantageous^though not fo much fo as before^ becaufe the private trade, is nothing like ib flourifliing as it was in former times. The methods by which fortunes were made in this office, will eaiily be conceived by (èafaring people* The ^- cretary of the council of juftice, has the rank of merchant. The citizens, arid free merchants ofBa^ tavbij who are not in the Company's fervice, are amenable to a feparate municipal court of juftice, being what is called the boand k:^ Jcbeepens^ or aldermen, who are eight in number, with a prefident, who is a member of the council of India. To this court belong a (heriff, for the matters which relate to the city, and a con- ftable of the territory oï Batavia ; both of which t a«g ] which arc very lucrative offices, and are never beftowed but on great favourites. The puniihiQents infli^ed at Batavia^ arc exceffively feverc, efpecially fuch as fall upon the Indians, Impsdcment is the chief, and moft terrible. In the year 176^ I faw an execution of this kind» of a MacafTer flave, who had mur- dered his m^fter ; which was done in the following manner. The criminal was led, in the morning» to the place of execution^ being the grafs*plat, which I have before taken notice of, and laid upon his belly, he- ilig held by four men. The executioner thca jnade a tranfverfe incifion at the lower part of the body, as far as the os facrum ; he then introduced the (harp point of the fpike, which was about fix feet long, and made of polifhed iron, into the wound, io that It paflV ed between the backbone and the fkin. Two men drove it forcibly up, along the (pine, while the executioner held the end, and gave it a proper direélion, till it came out between the neck and ihoulders. The lower end was then put into a wooden poft^ and riveted faft; and the .fuffcrer was lifted up, thus [ ^h ] thus impaled^ and the poft (luck in the ground. At the top of the poft, about ten feet from the ground, there was a kind of little bench^ upon which the body refted. The infcnfibility, or fortitude, of the mife* rable fufferer, was incredible. He did not utter the leaft complaint, except when the fpike was rivetted into the pillar ; the ham- mering and ihaking occaftoned by it^ feem-> ed to be intolerable to him, and he then bel- lowed out for pain; and likewife once again, when he was lifted up and fet in the ground^ He fat in this dreadful fituation, tiU death put an end to his torments, which fortunately happened the next day, about three o'clock in the afternoon. He owed this ipeedy ter- mination of his mifery, to a light fliower of rain, which continued for about an hour ; and he gave up the ghoft half an hour after- wards. There have been inftances at Batavia^ of criminals who have been impaled, in the dry ieafbn, and have remained alive for eight, or more days, without any food or drink, which is prevented to be given them, by a guard who is ftationed at the place of execution» VOL. I. V for [ 1^0 3 for that purpofe. One of the (urgeoos of the city aflured me, that none of the parts immediately neceflary to life, are injured by impalement, which makes the punifliment the more cruel and intolerable ; but that as ibon as any water gets into the wound, it mortifies, and occafions a gangrene, which diredly attacks the miore noble parts, and brings on death almoft immediately. This miferable fufFerer continually cooi^ plained of unfufFerable thirft, which is pe- culiarly incident to this terrible punifhment* The criminals are expoied, during the whole day, to the burning rays of the fun, and are unceafingly tormented by numerous ftinging Infèéts. I went to fee him again, about three hours before he died, and found him con* verfing with the byftanders. He related to them, the manner in which he had murdered his good maftcr, and exprefled his repent- ance, and abhorrence of the Crime he had committed. This he did with great conci- polurc ; yet an inftant afterwards, he burft out in the bittcreft complaints of unquencha* ^ ble thirft, and raved for drink, while no one was I 291' ] was allowed to alleviate, by a finglc drop of water, the excruciating torments he under^ went. This kind of punifhment, notwithftanding its gre^t cruelty, is afferted by many^ to be of the higheft neccflity, in a country, where a treacherous race of men, unreftrained by any moral principles from the perpetration of the greateft crimes, perform the daily menial and houfehold fervices of the Eu- ropeans. The flaves that come from the ifland ofCe/eóes^ and eipecially the Bougineie^ are guilty of the moft horrid murders : moft of thofe who run muds belong to that nation. Thefe aéls of indifcriminate mui;der, are called by us mucisj becaufe the perpetrators of them, during their frenzy, continually cry out, amoi^ amok, which (ignifies, ii//j kill. When, by the fwallowing of much opium^ or by other means, they are raifed to a pitch of defperate fury, they fally out with a knife, or other weapon, in their- hand, and kill, without diflinétion of iex, rank, or age» whoever they meet in the ftreets of Bata» via ; and proceed in this way, 'till they are either (hot dead, or taken prifoners* Their u 2 intox-» t 292 ] intoxication continues till death ; they run in upon the arms oppofed to them, and often kill their opponents, even after they are them* felves mortally wounded. In order, if poflible, to take them alive, the officers of juftice are provided with a pole, ten or twelve feet in length, at the end of which there is a kind of fork, made of two pieces of wood, three feet long, which are furniflied within with fliarp iron fpikes ; this is held before the wretched objeft of purfuit, who, in his frenzy, runs into it, and is'^thus taken prifoner. If he happen to be mortally wounded, he ^^ is immediately broken alive upon the wheel, without any form of trial, in the prefcnce of two or three of the counfellors of juftice. . . Many inftances of mucks occurred, during rtiy refidence at Batavia 3 they were moftly 1 done in the evening *• [ The ^ * It is rf roarkablcy that at Satan/iéf whete tbe affaffins, jutt now dcfcribed, when taken alivci arc broken on the wheel, with every aggravation of punifliment^ that the moft rigorous juftice can inflié^, the mucks yet luppen in great frequency ; whilft at Bencoolen, where they are executed in the moft fimple and expeditious mannner, the offence is extremely rare» Est- ceflfes of fcverity in punjifiiment^ may deter men from delibe- late. I [ «9,3 3 . The orphan-chamber at Bataviay -{crves^ at the fame time, for the whole of the Dutch rate, and interefled, afts of villany, but they only ezafperat» üiJl further» the atrocious enthufiafm of defperadoes. The Indian who runs a muci is always firft driven to defperatioa by fome outrage» and always firfl revenges himfelf upon thofe who have done him wrong : they are generally flaves'; who indeed are moft fubjeft to infults, and lead able to obtua legal redrefs. It has been ufual to attribute mucks to the con^ fequences of the ufe of opium ; but the words of Mr. Stavo- EiKUS, who fays that they are occalioned ^ by the fwallow. ^* ing of opiumi or fy fther meofu^** feem to confirm tho bpinion entertsuned by Marsden» that this fhould probably» rank with the many errors (hat mankind have been led into» by travellers addi^ed to the marvellous. That thefe Ajrious quarrels» and fanguinary attacks, do a£tually» and frequently take place in fome parts of the eail» cannot be controvert- ed ; but It is not equally evident that they proceed from any intoxication» except that of their unruly paifions ; and many ittMcks might, upon fcrutiny» be found to be of thé nature of one» which Mr. Marspek particularizes» of a flave» who probably never indulged in the ufe of opium in l^s life» a man of ftrong fieelings» driven» by exceft of injury» to do- meftic rebellion ; or of that related in Lieut. Cook's voyage in the Endeavour^ of a free inhabitant oi Batavia^ whofe brain was fired more by the maddening fuiy ot je^lonfy, than by any adventitious intoxication. It is true that the Malays, when bent upon any daring enterprize» fortify themfelves with ji tittle opium» in ordpr to become i^fenfible to danger ; ^ the people of another nation are faid to take a dram ; byt it muft be obferved» that the refolvition for the aét precies» and is fifit. the e/feét of ü^ intoxication. They take th^ fame pr^ u 3 cautioui C ^94 ] Dutch poïTcilïons in India. Every out- fadory bas, it is true, its own orphan-cham- ber, but they muft render account of their adminiftration, to that of the capital, and remit the efFe£is which are not claimed, or the heirs to which do not refide on the ipo't. That of Batavia correfponds with the orphan-chambers of the different cities where the chambers of the Eaft-India Company are cftabliflied *. The board confifts of a prcfident, who is a counfellor of India, and fix nveefmeejièrsj or regents, who are appointed by the coun- caution, previous te being led to public execution ; but oa thefe occafions, ihew greater figns of (hipidity, than of frenxj. Upon the whok it may reafonably be concludedi that the fanguinary achievements, for which the Malays have been £unous« or infomous rather, are more juftly derived from the natural ferocity of their difpofition, than from the qualities of any drug whatever. At Batavia^ if an officer take one of thefe ^moks, or mohawks, as they have been called by an eafy corruptioni alive, hii reward is very confiderable* but if he kill them, nothing is added to hisufualpay; yet fuchis the fury of their defperation, that three out of four, are of neceffity dcftroyed in the attempt to fecure them. T. V ^''^<^aj«^>, or orphan-chambers, are eftablifhments whieh are difperfed throughout the United Provinces, 'for the ad- 'miiiUtration of the eftates of all who die inteltafe, and the ap- pördonmènt of them 'among the heirs. 7*« cil t ^95 J ell of India ; with a fecretary, and a fwom clerk. The capital ftock, remaining in th^ hands of the orphan-chamber, amounted in the year 1766, to ƒ.2,393,566 *. There arc feveral other courts, or boards^ as the commiilioners of dikes and fluices, thofe of bankruptcies, a court of common pleas, a board of controul over marriages, and others. A fociety was eftabliihed at Batavia^ dur« ing the government of Baron Van Imhof, for the opium*trade» which is fiill in exifi:- ence. The ftock of the^ fociety is divided into fliares, of two thouiand rixdollars each, on which the half has hitherto only been fur« niihed, but the remainder may be required at any time. The dividends are unequal, yet very large» and the fliaf es are fold at a high premium ; they are generally in the hands of the ooun<- fellors of India. The management of this trade, is en« trufted to a direöor, who is a counfellor of hidia, tWó ading proprietors, a caihier, and a bookkeeper. * About 9SO,Mo/. fterHng« 7". u 4 Every [ t^6 3 Every chcfl of opium ftands the Com- pany in two hundred and fifty, and (ome* times in three hundred rixdoUars, and is delivered to the fociety for five hundred, and fometimes more. On the other hand, the Company is bound to fell this drug to no other. The retail of it, produces large pro- fits, as the (bciety make eight or nine hun- dred rixdollars, and more, of every cheft. The gain would be more coniiderable, if this monopoly could be ftriélly enforced, for the whole quantity of opium, confumed in the eaftcrn parts of India; but, notwith- ftanding the Company have interdided this trade to their fbrvants, and efpecially to the ièamen, upon pain of death, and have pro* hibited the importation into any of their pof- feffions, by foreign nations, upon pain of confifcation of fhip and cargo, yet very great violations of thefe laws are daily prac- tifed in fecret, on account of the important profit which this branch of trade afibrds i by which the fociety is much injured, al- though, on their part, they do all they can, on the arrival of fhips from the Gangesy to difcovcr if any contraband opium be on board : but tliofe who engage in this illicit trade, [ «97 3 trade^ take too many precautioas, to run any danger of detedion. The fmuggling trade which the Englifli carry on, in this article, in the eaftern iflands, and by way of Malacca^ is alfo extremely detrimental to the Ibciety. When any (hips arrive in the road of Batavia^ from fuch places, whence contra- band goods can be brought, two of the mem- bers of the council of juftice, with the water- fifcal, and the provoft-marflial, are difpach- ed the next day, in order to examine, whe- ther any prohibited wares are on board ; the examination, however, is only perfonallydone by the laftnamed officer, who reports the re- ^t to the others. A chief of the marine, or port-admiral, has been eAablifhed at Batavia^ (ince the year 1762. This office was filled by Mr. N* HouTiNGH, vice-admiral of Holland, of the northern divifion. He is in rank equal to a counfellor of India, but takes place after the junior counfellor. He has the fame privileges; has equally the ftyle of edele beer^ and may ^^ prefefnt at their affen^- lilies ; but may Sot deliver his fentiments, except t ï9« ] except in matters relative to his depart- ment. His chief occupation confifts in fuperin- tending the reparation of (hips ; in examin- ing the (hips' journals ; in iigning the fail- ing-orders, and the warrants for delivery of Aores to the (hips ; and further, in keeping all that relates to maritime affairs in due order. Upon this officer, follows the comman* idant and upper comptroller of equipment, to ^hom the management of the flores is con- fided. He has likewife the fuperintendence over the difcharging and loading of the ihips, the manning of them, and the fur- nifhing them with provifions. This is alio one of the moft lucrative, but> at the lame time, one of the ftioft tróublefome, employ- ments ^t Batavia. Since he has a head placed over him ; however, the former quality has greatly decreafed, while the lattef, has re- mained in full force« He is ailifled by a vice-dommandant, and under comptroller ef equipment, to whom he generally delegates the fupcfrintehdence of the loading and un- loaiding of the ftips, and ^ho fupplies his place, t 29^9 ] place» in caies of ückneis» or abfence^ This gentleman has the rank of poft-captain. The Company have granted to theie three ofiicefSy as an emolument, the privilege of fhipping fome tons of goods (contraband wares excepted) by every fhip that fails to India, according to the (ize of the veflels ; and if a fliip*s captain do not buy up theib goods of them, at a very high rate, he is lure to find very fcanty opportunities of difpofing of his own. The commanders ' of veflels, with their lieutenants and mates, fóHow next in order ; the firft rank equal with merchants : when I was iait' Batavia J in 1770, there were thirty* nine of them, who refided there, or com^ manded count/y-fhips. The whole of the land-forces of the Dutch in India, are under^he command of one head, who was formerly ftyled fcaptain-major, but has now the title of brigadier. In rank he fol^ lows upon the chief of the marine. He has two lieutenant-colonels under him ; one of ^hom has the command of the military at Batamia, and the other at Ceylon ; there are ))efireach in Dutch/ ^ Scsrvke k performed ^very Sunday, in the ahove tèree languages ; in Dutch» at two churches in the morning, but only at one the 83d article, to the officers of the Coimpany in Bengal» not to finals thdr predeceflbrs in pomp of drefs, or appearance, snl cijpecialiy not the §qvttnon or chiefs of the other Eanr- pean ièttlementt« Perhaps the iioth article, is the mofi curious of all. It allows to the dire&or at Sxratf when he goes out in ffafte, among other tluDgs, four fans, made» accord- ing to the £i(faioa of the country, with the feathers of hirds of paradile, and cow-hair, with golden cafes and handles. It ia in this fame aft of the council, that the orders before noticed^ refpefting the homage to be paid by eveiy one, on meeting the members of the goverhthent in their carriages'» or when they enter the churches, are inflated. It likewife fixes the duties to be paid upon all carriages, hories, i&c It is worthy oFobfervation, that thofe upon carriages encreafe downwards, from the higher to the lower ranks ; members óf the govern- mcht pay $0 rixdoUars per annum, captains of the mtikaty, merchants, &c. xoo, junior merchants, Sec* iz^y book- keepers, &c. 180, cidzens of no fpecial rank, and native inha* bllants of confideradon, aoo» and the conimon natives^ joo rixdoUars, for keeping of carriages. Larger or finaller fines^ an the penalties attaclied to the infra&ion of abnofl all thefe fumptuary regulations^ Where wealth and pride unite, they are, therefore, of little avail, to reffa^n an excefs of luxury. T. VOL. Ï. X in [ 306 1 iti the afternoon. An examination of cslte« chumens takes place eVery WednefHay even- ing. So that upon the whole, thefc reverend gentlemen need not complain, when their number is complete, of too fevere labour in the vineyard of the Lord. The morning- fervice commences at half paft eight o'clock, and is generally over by ten, when the greateft heat of the day begins to come on. Ecclcfiaftical difputcs, are never heard of here. The Company's government, wïio are extremely anxious to ^void every thing that could interrupt the public tranquillity, would foon terminate the quarrel^ by the fummary argument - of force, an example whereof is to be met with in Valentyn. It is much to be wiflied, that upright and learned clergymen, were alone fcnt hither. Yet that this is not always the cafe, appears from a refolution taken by the government there, in the year 1768, earneftly to rcqueft that the aflcmbly of feventeen, would dif- patch fome njinifters of the gofpel, poflefled of virtue aiiQ learning, to Batavia^ with an augmentation of falaries . and emoluments. Their falary was then one thoufand eight hundred gilders per annum, but with their allowances [ 3^7 ] allowances for houferent, board, &c. they could reckon upon three thoufand**, which is certainly not enough to live upon, at Batavia^ with a family, and on an equal footing with the fenior merchants. Once in every year, or fometimes only once in two years, one of the clergymen of Batavia^ go upon a vifitation, to the Com- pany's po(re(Iions, on Sumatra^ weft coaft. Some of them, well know how to avail of fiich occafions, to the advantage of their pockets, by taking with them as much mer- chandize for fale, as they can find room for in the fhip, by which they take their paflage. The coins current at Batavia^ are the following!— the milled Dutch gold ducat, which is worth fix gilders and twelve ftivers : the Japan gold coupangSy of which the old, go for twenty-four gilders, and the new, for fourteen gilders and eight ftivers : the Spanifti dollar, or piafter, rifes and falls, ac- cording to the quantity in circulation, or the degree of demand i its value is generally be- tween fixty-three and fixty-fix ftivers : the milled filyer ducatoon, which is the current * About »75/. ftcrling. T, X 2 coin [ y^ 1 coin of the Company, throughout their póC* fèflions, e»:ept on the continent of India ; its proportionate, value^ according to the Qlther coinsi is fixty-fix ftivers ; but in In- dian money it goes for eighty, at which rate it is current at Batavia ; at the Capi of Good Hope^ it is worth feventy-two, and at Cochin feventy-five ftivers : the untniUed ducatoon, is two üivërs lefs at Bptama: the milled Batavia rupee, called the filver ^- ham d^Java, which was formerly coined at Batavia, is made good in die Company's books at twenty-four ftivers, itind in circula- tion it is taken at thirty ; it is the only rupee that goes for io much at Batavia^ ani is current at Amhoynay Bamh^ Temate, Maa^* far J and Malacca^ at the fame rate, bot on the coaft of Malabar^ it is eight per cent, lels in value, than the Surai rupee ; all other rupees generally go for twenty-felren Aiveis > the Perfian rupees are the moft current; there are alfo half and quarter rupees in cir* culation : the fmaller coins are flcsUzags, duhbeltjes^ or twopenny-pieces, and ^ts; there are two forts of ikiUmgs, ihe old, which are the fame as are current in Hol- land, go for fix flivers, but the new, which are C 3<^ ] are .{^erc called ihlp-fkilllugs, are worth fovea apd a half: twppepny-pieces» which are old and worn^ go for two ftivers, but the new, for two ftivers and a half; no other doits are taken in change, tlwa thole that are (Umped. wicht the mark of the ;£«ft«:Iiidia Company, and thefe are equal to a farthing in value : the rixdoliar» which i^ the money u(èd for accounts in private trade, is a coin, which is worth forty-eight ftivers, thi» three new or milled ducatoons, are equal to five rix- dollars *. Moft merchants' gpods are calculated at Batavia^ by pkols of one hundred and * ThefoUowbgis actable of th6 value ia flerUog moitejr, of the above coiiiis, at the gar exchange of /it p^r poHod; viz« £' /. ii. The old Japan gojd coupang /H or a % 7i The new ditto 14 8 X 6 H The milled Dutch ducat 1% 12 The filver milled ducatoon 7 3i The unmilled ditto 18 7 1 The SpanHh dollar from 3 i H to 6 • 6 The rixdollar 8 4 Ai The Batavia rupee !• a H Other rupees about * 7 ft Si X 3 twenty-tfivc [ 3IQ ] twenty-five pounds, Amftcrdam weight *, and thefe are fubdivided into a hundred cattis, each weighing one pound and a quarter. Rice, and other grain, is meafured by coyangSj which differ in* weight. On the receipt of the rice by the Company at Java^ they muft weigh three thoufand five hundred pounds. They are fhipped to Batavia for three thoufand four hundred, ^nd landed there for three thoufand three hundred. The warehoufe-keeper§, difpatch them for. the out-fa6lories for three thoufand two hundred, where they are unloaden for three thoufand one hundred, and, finally, they are delivered for confumption for three thoufand pounds at the out-faöories, namely, thofe that receive their rice from Batavia^ as Malacca^ the Cape of Go:d Hope^ Ceylon^ Sumatra % weft coafti &c. thus every coyang lofes five hun- dred pounds in weight -j*. Sugar r * RiCAUp, in his Traite dê Cmmerce^ makes the/tu^o/^at Batai}ia^ equal to ii%\lL Amfterdaro weight. T. f This deficiency is an allowance which is made to the Company's fervants who rcfpeftivcly have the management of the rice, for inftancc, for every 3,300 received at BatmM^ the warchoufe-kecpers arc only bound to deliver 3faoo, &€• Out of this difference they muft make good all lofs, by dufii &c. and what they can keep over is a perquifite to themfdves. Simihr " [3" 3 Sugar is taken by canajers^ of three picols^ or three hundred and feventy-five pounds, neat, each : tht grofs weight is about four hundred or four hundred and five pounds. The ganting, is a fmall rice-meafure, of thirteen pounds and a half in weight. Every bag of coffee, which is (hipped from Batavia to Holland, weighs two hundred and fifty-two, and a bale of cinnamon, eighty pounds. Similar allowances are made on moft of the goods in which the Company trade, and they are all very paiticulariy fixed by a refolution of the council. They form a very material part of the income of the Company's fervants ; who, however, are bound to fell again to the Companyi what they have gain* ed in this way, of all fpices, co£fee, fidtpetre, japan copper^ and tin ; the other articles they ait allowed to difpofe of a$ Xb^y pleaic. Tt X 4 CHAPTER E 3?» 3 CHAPTER V. Mode of ümg tf the Europemi ft BATè^tiA^cBr ff^amn- — ^iir early l^rr't^es.—GoKfffeêcipi. — Temper. — Mamer êf life.-r-fidmM^ fif CbU- dref.TrBafbing. — ExceJJive Jfiokup cf the Itutan Ladies. — Cruelty to their Female Slaves.-^bori Widowhood^. — Thar Drefs. — Diverfipns.--=-C/ar^ ^ riages. — Norimons. — Carts drawn by Bt^aloe^ — Further Particulars of the Management of the Con^any^s Trade.-^Senior Merebants of the Caftle, -T7 A^i^m^fif^^ «r Wardiofiffe-hep/nrs.—'Cm' Êmffaries at the jyarehm^es.-^Etcportt^tion if Qoti and Silver to Lidia, Eui IROPEANS, whodier Dutch, or of ^y other nationj and in whatever ftation they are^ live at Batavia^ nearly in the fame manner. Ifi the morning» at five o'clock, or earlier, when the day breaks, they get up. Many of them, then go and fit at their doors i but others ftay in the houfe, with nothing but a light gown, in which they fleep, throwq over their naked limbs ; they then brcakfaft Vpon coffee or tea ; aftecwards they drefs; an4 go out, tp atteftd to thp bufiacfi they : may f 3'3 3 may have* Almoft all, who have any place or cwptployiBOot, üjkA be a.t tb?ir proper i^tioi> at^ or .before, eight o'clock, an(J they reoiHiia a,t. Mosdc till eleven^ or half paiL ^t twelve o'clock they diue ; take an after- Qpop's. tudfi till ibur, au4 attend to their bug* nels again till fiy, or take a tour out of the city in a carriage^ At fix o'clock they aflemble in copapaaies,and play, or convcrfe, till nine, when they roturr^ home ; whoever choofes to ftay to iupper is welcome ; and eleven o'cloqk is the qifual hour of retiring to t:c^. Convi^^l gj^iety feems to reign among them, and yet it is linked with a klM of fuipiciQus ref^rve, which pervades all Aaticuis, and all .coi9paaies, a{id is d^ con.» iequenpe of an arbitrary syid jealpv§ govern- ment^ The leaft word^ that may be wrcfted to an evil mcOining, may bring on very ferious confequences, if it reach the ears of the perfbn who is aggrieved, either in fa^ or in imagination. 1 have heard many peo* pie affect, that tbey would not cqnfide ui their own brothers, i^j ^§ country. No women are pr^fQixt ja^t thefe*ffemb|lies^ (^py h^ve ^eir owo i}^parj|te cpifopanies. Married w«d> «eithpr ^ivc thepifelvea^ much [ $^^ ] much concern about their wives, nor fliew thena much regard. They feldom converfe with them, at leaft not on ufeful fubje6ls»' or fuch as concern fociety. After having been married for years, the ladies are often, therefore, as ignorant of the world and of manners, as upon their wedding-day. It is not that they have no capacity to learn, but the men have no inclination to teach. The men generally go dreflbd in the Putch fafhion, and often wear black. As loon as you enter a houfe, where you intend to ftop for an hour or more, you are delired by the mailer, to make yourfelf com* fortable, by taking off fome of your clothes, &c. This is done, by laying afide the fword, pulling off the coat, aAd wig (for moft men wear wigs here), and fubftituting in the room of the laft, a little white night-cap, which is generally carried in the pocket;^ for that purpofe. When they go out, on foot, they are at-? tended by a flave, who carries a fimfhade (called here fambreel or fayang) over their heads ; but whoever is lower in rank than a junior merchant, may not have a flave behind him, but inauft carry a fmall fuiilhade himfelfe Moft ■ L 315 3 Moft of the white women, who are fee» at Batavia^ are born in the Indies. Thofe who come from Europe at a marriageable jage, are very few in number. I ihall, therefore, confine my obierv^tions to the former. Thefe are either the offspring of Europesu mothers, or of oriental feniale flaves;^ who having firft been miftrelFes to Europeans, have afterwards been married to them, and have been . converted to chriftianity, or at^ Icaft have aflumed the narne of chriftians. ^ ' The children produced by thefe marriages, may be known, to the third and fourth gene- ration, elpecially by the eyes, which are much fmaller than in the unmixed progeny of Europeans. • There are likewife children, who are the offspring of Portuguefe, but thefe never become entirely white. Children born in the Indies, are? nick- named /ip/aps by the Europeans, although both parents may have come from Europe. Girls are commonly marriageable ,at twelve or thirteen years of age, and fbme- times younger; It fcldom happens, if they fire but tolerably handfome, have any mo« ney. I 3'0 ] ney, or any to expe£l^ or are related to people in power, that they are uiim^ried after that age. As they marry while they are yet children^ it may eafily be conceived, th&t they do not poffefs thofe requifites which enable a woman to manage a family with propriety. There are many of them, who can neither read nor write, nor poffefs any ideas of religion, of morality, or of focial intercovirfc. Being married fo young, they feldom get many children, and are old women s^t thirty years of age. Women of fifty, in Europe, look yoynger and frefher, than thofe of thirty at Batavia. They are, in genei;j4,.Qf a very delicate make, aqd of an extreme fair complexion ; but the tints of v^rnullioft which embellifli our northern ladies, are wholly abfent from their cheeks ; the ,il:in of their face and hands, is of the moft 4?adljr pale white. Besiutios muft not be (ought amongft them ; the handfomeft w^op 1 law, would fcarcely be thought iifii^dling pretty, in Europe. They have very (upplc joints, and c^ turn their fingers, hands, apfi ^(ns, i^ almoft every direftion ; but ^ they have, I in t *f7 I in coiniöon with the womrh in the Wdl- IndieS) and in other tropical climates. They are commonly of a lifttefs and kzy temper ; but this traght chiefly to bfe afcribed to their education, and the number of ilavtes éf both fexes, that they always have to wait laipon them. They rife about half paft feven, or eight ó^clock, in tlie morning. They fpend the forenoon in playing and toying with their female fkvcs, whom they are never without, arid in laughing and ta:Iking with lihem, -WhStlc a few moments afterwards, they wifl feive the poor creatures whipped tmmerci* fully, for the mereft trifle. They loH, in a ioofe and airy drcfs, upon a fbfa, or lit upon a low ftool, or upon the ground, with their legs crolTed under therii. In the mean time, they do not omit the chewing of pinang, or betel, with which cuftom all the Indian women are infatuated ; they lifcewife maf- ticate the Java -tobacco ; this ma^es fherr l^ittle of a crrthfon colour, and when they have done it long, they get a blact border along their lips, their teeth becortie blacky and their mouths are very difagrecible, though It IS pretended that this ufe purifies the I (hall refrain frcMn the recital of in-« ibiices, which I have heard, of the moft i^efik^d crüdty praSifed upon tbefe wretched "^dkns éf j^^ufyj by Indian women, and Wluch have been related to me by witaefles irorthy of belief ; they are too repugnant to every feeling of humanity, and furpafi die ufoal bounds of credibility. Having' thus (atiated their anger upon their flaves, theh* next obje£l is to take equal revetagó upon th^ir huibands, which they do in a manner lefs cruel^ and «ore pleafiunt to t!bemfelve^ The warmth of the climate, which in* Kuetices ftrongl^r upon their conftitutions, togcftfaer with the diÜblute lives of the men before marriage, are the cai^s of much wantonnefs and difiipation among the wo* men. Marriages are always made at BaUma^ on Sundays, yet the bride never appears abroad beffore the following Wèdnefday evening, when flie attends divine f^vice; to be iboner (een in public, would be a vio- lation of the rules of decorum. . As foon as a woman becomes a widow, and the body of her huiband is interred, which which is generally done the day after his deceafe, if fhe be but rich, (he has imme* diately a number of fuitors. A certain lady, who loft her hufband while I was at Ba-- tavia^ had, in the fourth week of her widow- hood, a fourth lover, and at the end of three months, fhe married again, and would have done it iboner, if the laws had allowed of it. Their drefs is very light and airy ; they have a piece of cotton cloth wrapped round the body, and faftened under the arms, next to the fkin ; over it they wear a Ihift, a jacket, and a chintz petticoat ; which is all covered by a long gown or kabay^ as it is called, which hangs loofe ; the fleeves come down to the wri(Js, where they are faftened clo(e,with fix or feven little gold, or diamond buttons. When the/ go out in ftate, or to a company where they expeft' the prelcnce of a lady of a counfellor of India, they put on a very fine muflin kabay^ which is made like the other, but hangs down to the feet, while the firft only reaches to the knees* When they invite each other, it is always with the condition of coming with the long, or the fhort habay. They all go with their VOL. !• y head$ [ 3" 1 heads uncovered ; the hair, which is per* fcftly black, is Worn in a wreath, faflened with gold and diamond hairpins, which they call a conJé * •• in the front, and on the fides of the head, it is ftroked fmooth, and rendered fliining, by being anointed with cocoanut-oil. They are particularly fet up- on this head-drefs, and the girl who can drefs their hair the moft to their liking;, is their chief favourite among their flaves. On Sundays they • fometimes drefs in the European ftyle, with ftays and other fafhion- able incumbrances, which however they do not like at all, being accuftbmed to a drefs fo much loofer, and more pleafant, in this torrid clime. When a lady goes out, (he has ulually four, or more, female flaves attending her, one of whom bears her betel-box. They are fumptuoufly adorned with gold and fil- * The Englifh travellers who have vifitcd Bata'via^ have all admired the tafte of this head-drefs, which they have thought inekpreflibly elegant. When the ladies pay their evening- vifits to each other, the wreath of hair is furrounded by a. chaplet of flowers, in which the grateful fragrance of the nyiiantbes famhac^ or Arabian jeflamine, unites with theno* deft iweetnefs of the poUantbes tuherofa^ and is beautifully in- termixed with the golden fiars of the mirmifops tkniL T. ver. [ 3?3 ] Ver, and this oftcntatious luxury, the Indian ladies carry to a very great excefs *. They feldom mix in company with the men, except at marriage-^feafts. The title of my lady is given exclufively to the wives of counfellors of India. The ladies are very fond of riding through the ftreets of the town, in their carriages, in the evening» Formerly, when Batavia was in a more flourifliing condition, they were accompanied by muficians : but this is little cuftomary at prefent, no more than rowing through the canals that interfeél the town, in little pleafure-boats ; and the going upon thefe parties, which were equally enlivened by mufic, was called orangbayen. When I came to Batavia^ there was a theatre there ; but it was given up before my departure. The coaches ufed at Batavia^ are fmall and light. No one is reftrained from keep- ing a carriage, but all are limited with re- fpeéfc to its decoration and painting. Thefb are fcrupuloufly regulated, according to the * See the note in the foregoing chapter, reladye to the fumptuary regulations introduced at Batgnna^ of which this feems to be a uotorit)U3 infraétion. T. Y 2 refpeótive [ 3H 1 refpeöivc ranks. Glafs windows to coaches, are alone allowed to the members of the government, who have alfo the privilege of painting or gilding their carriages agreeable their own tafte. It is ordained, that a flave fliall rua before every wheel-carriage, with a ftick in his hand, in order to give notice of its nearnefs, and prevent alt accidents ; for the ftreets not being paved, the approach of the carriage cannot be otherwife eafily perceived. A yearly tax is paid to the Company for keeping a carriage ; but moft people hire one, at the rate of fixty rixdoUars a months of the licenfed ftablekeepers, by whom the duty is paid *. Counfellors of India, and a few others, of the Company's upper fervants, are exempted from it. 'Sedan-chairs are not in ufe here. The ladies, however, fometimes employ a con- veyance, that is fomewhat like them, and is called a norimon. This is a kind of box, narrower at the top than the bottom, aad * * The annual tax paid by the ftablekeepers, is 80 rix- doUars, if living within, and 50, if without, the city. On a. former occafion, the different rates of the. duty on carriages,, paid by different perfons, have been noticed. T* carried: [ 3^5 ] carried by a thick bamboo pole, faftcned over the top. They (it in it, ^ith their legs crofled under .them, and have then juft room enough to fit upright, without being feen. The carts, drawn by bufFaloes,which fervc to convey goods inland, are of a very fim- ple, and no lefs clumfy, conftruöipn. A long pole, which ferves for a beam, goes through an axlctree, which turns two wheels, or rather round blocks like quoits, which are fawa out of the trunk of a thick tree, being about four feet in diameter, and having a round hole in the center, through which the end of the axletree is inibrted. At the farther end of the beam, there is a crofs piece of wood, of four or five feet in length, with four ftout pegs, which is laid upon the Ihoulders óf two buffaloes, in the manner of a yoke, fo that their necks fit between the pegs, and this ferves both to bear the weight of the cart, and to drag it along. The carts themfelves are fmall, and cannot carry a great weight ; they have a covering made of leaves, to prefervc the load from the rain. Y3 The [ 326 ] The trade of the Company, as we have before faid, 'is managed by the direöor general. The burthcnfomc duty of his of- fice, is greatly alleviated by two affiftants, who are fcnior merchants of the caftle. Their bufinefs confifts chiefly, in fuperin- tending the houfing in the Company's warehoufes of all goods which are brought to Batavia by their fhips, and the delivery of them again ; all returns on this fcore, are firft made to them. The fcnior of them has the fuperintendence over all the goods that arrive, and the other, over thofe that are difpatched. Deliveries are made on warrants figned by one of them. All pa- pers, relative to trade, which are received from the out- factories, are examined by them, and they report their contents to the direélor. They are both likewife ad- miniftrators of the great treafury, but de- rive little emolument from it. Their office is one of the moft troublefome of any in the Company's civil fervice at Batavia^ and is not equally lucrative in comparifon with others, to which lefs labour is attached, and wht^aQ? (nuch greater profits accrue; 7Ct t 327 J yet it is an office of much cohfideration, as it gives the precedency before all other fcnior merchants. All merchandize is houfed in the Com- pany's repofitories, which are fituated partly in the city of Batavia, and partly on the ifland of Onrufi, under the dircdion of admi- niftrators, or warehoufe-keepers, who muft render account of the fame. This branch of bufinefs is divided into feveral departments, each of which has two adminiftratorSjtwo commiflaries, and a book- keeper. Some of thefe adminiftratorfhips are very lucrative employments, efpecially that of the ifland Onrujiy on account of the large quantities of goods, which are laid up there. A certain per centage is allowed to all the adminiflrators, upon the whole of the goods which they deliver, for wafte, lofs in weight, and damage, when the de- livery is efFeöed within a twelvemonth af- ter the receipt ; but when the goods have lain more than a year in the warehoufes, he allowance is greater. The occupation of the commiflaries at the warehoules, is to take care that the Company fuffer no prejudice at . the receipt Y4 or [ S»8 ] or delivery of goods. They arc obliged to be prefent at the weighing of «very thing, and to be attentive to the accuracy of the weight ; an oath of fidelity in the difcharge of their duty» is adminiftered to thena, an- nually, by the council of juftice» The quantity of goods fcnt from Europe to India» is inconfiderable, in cojnparifon with thofe which are conveyed from one part of the Indies to another, or to Europe. The chief article of exportation to India, is gold and filver, both bullion, and coined *. * Thic annual eiportatioo of the precious metals to India, by the Dutch Eafl-India Company^ has been calculated at y.óyOoOjOóo, or nearly 550,000/. T. CHAPTER [ 3^9 ] CHAPTER XL A Jhqrt Account of the Out-faSories. — Amboyna. — Banda. — Ternate. — Macasser. — Ti* MOR. — Benjermassing. — Malacca. — ^he Nortbet:ft Coaft of Java. — Coaji of Coroman- DEL. — Ceylon. — Brngal. — Surat. — Co^ifi cf Malabar. — Wefi Coafi of Sumatra. — Bantam. — Palembang. — Cheribon. — ^rade /^ Japan. — To China, — Abandonment of /everal FaHories, and Tradhgf laces. —Decay of the Company^ s Trade in the Weft of India^ chiefly owing to the Preponderance of the Englijh. — Pre^ miums to the Ship*5 Crews that return from In- dia. — Decay ^Batavia, by theDecreafe of pri- vate Trade. — Unbealtbinefs of the Place. — Ad- miniftration of the Province ^ Jaccatra, — Im^ parts at^ Batavia. — The Jfland Onrust. — Db XUIPER. PURMSREHP. ^£PAM. A HE Company's poflcfficns in India, are diftinguiflied into thofe fituated to the eaft- wardy and thofe to the weftward of Ba* tavia. To the eaftward, the government, or province of Amboyna^ holds the firft rank ; to it belong the neighbouring iilands, and part pf the ifland of Ceram. The Com- pany's [ 33Ö ] pany'S^ (êrvants appertaining to Amhoyna^ are in number about eight or nine hun- dred. The only article of trade produced here, is cloves \ thefe are grown in fuch quan- tities, that the government at Batavia^ fbme* times order a large number of clove-trees to .be extirpated, and that no mor^ than a certain fixed number (hall be planted. • Thus, by a refolution of the year 1768, they ordered that the propagation of the clove-trees ihould ceafe, till their number was reduced to 550,000 ; the number of trees, both young, and fruit-bearing, was then 759,040. In the year 1770, an ex- traordinary fine crop, produced upwards of 2,2co,ooo/^j. of cloves ; each pound fcarcely ftands the Company in more than five ftivers *. Banda is the fecond government to the caftward. It coHfifts of feveral fmall * On Mr. Stayorinus's fecond voyage he vifited Am* hoyna^ and has there, in book ii. given a very copious account of it. We refrain, therefore, from making any additions, to his ihort notice of it in thb chapter ; and (ball only enUrge on thofe fettlemeots, which he did not himfelf touch at, and of which he g^ves no further, or a very (light account. T. iflands« C 331 ' ] iflands *. The number of Europeans iii garrifon, or otherwife in the fervice of the Com- * The province of Banda is about three or four weeks* fail from Batsvia; it confifls of fix foiall iilands, which lie clofe to each other ; upon Kiiray which is fituate in 4^ 30' fouth ladtudei (lands the chief fctttement of the pro- vince ; it has a fpacious and commodious harbour, but rery difficult to be entered ; fiiips anchor under the cannon of two forts, called Bilgica and Najau ; the firft ftands upon an eminence, and commands the whole extent of the ifland, and of the harbour» as well as fort Naffau ; it would how- ever, at leaft require a garrifon of 400 men to be capable of defence, and the whole number of military in all the iflauds, fcarcely ever exceeds 300 ; the next ifland is. that of Lantb&ify or BanJa proper. The refidencies of fTayer and Oirien^ are on this ifland, and it has a fort, and two or three redoubts ; the third and fourth in importance, are /'»/»« Wi^ and Puto-run ; upon the firft of which there is a fmall Jbrt, and upon the other a redoubt ; and thefe four iflands, fxt the only places where the cultivation of the nutmeg-tree is allowed by the Company ; the other two are, Hpungin^ on which there is a redoubt, and to this ifland the Company often banifh their ftate-prifoners ; and GumnÊg-api^ which has a volcano, conftantly emitting fmoke, and often flames. To this government likewife belong feverai other iflands in the neighbourhood, known by the appellations of the fouth- eaftern» and the fouthweftern ifles. Their inhabitants are in alliance with the Company, and fiimiih a confiderable quantity of provifions, confiding^ of wild boars, fiags, fea- cows, and other articles of food, which they barter at Veira for piece-goods, and other necefl*aries. This trade, however trifling, is of much benefit to the inhabitants of BanJa ; and it C 33^ ] Company there, does not much differ from that at Amboyua^ It has little to fear from enemies, being, as it were, fortified by nature, and almoft every where inacceffible, on account of its fteep flioresp The violent currents, and narrow paflTages like wife make the naviga- tion very dangerous *. The Company's fhips it is fuppofed that the province would reap greater advan* rages from it, if the Company would allow l^cira to be- come a more commercial place ; but the fufpicious policy of the government, has always been direéled to prevent the frequency of communication with the fpice-iflands» that as little opening might be left, as poflible, for the profe- cution of a clandeftine trade, or for the knowledge of the iituation, and Rate of defence of thefe pofTeffions. ST, "» The edablilhment at the ifles of Bandu^ confified, in 1776 and 1777» of 55 perfons in civil employments, 3 cler» gymen^ 16 furgeons and aflitlants ; 35 belonging to the ar. tillery ; 82 feamen and marines employed on fliore ; 283 foldiers, and 40 mechanics: in all 5x4 Europeans, befides 9^ of the natives in the Company's fervice : yet the orders of the Company require that the garrifon here fliould amount to 7Q0 men. Seiides the ufual falaries, the Company allow their fervants at Banda, five per cent on the fale of good^ imported» and fcven per cent furplus -weight on the nut- jnegs colieded 5 Y0 ^^ which emoluments belong to the go- vernor» -^ to the fecond in command, and the reft is dillributed by fixed portions among the other Company*s fervants; fix per cent is likewife allowed on the nutmegs, and t 333 J fliïps are obliged to be warpe4 in with the afliftance of many boats. The. produce confifts in nutmegs and mace ; the former, ftand the Company in about one and a quarter ftiver per pounds and the latter in about nine ftivers f. The and tweke per cent on the mace, fliipped off, for lofs in weight by drying, crumbling, &c. ; the profit accruing by which, is divided equally between the governor, and the warehoufe- keepers ; the governor has likewife an allowance of /.240, or about 22/. per month, for table-money. When the Englifh Admiral Rainiek took polfeflion of the iflands of é»hj^Ma and Bmda^ in February and March, 1 796, the firil, and indeed the only article of the capitulation, was» that '^ the fenior and junior officers of the civil efiablifh- ^ ment, the clergy, the military, and the marines, ihould •* continue to receive their ufual pay." Notwithftanding the natural means of defence of thefe iflands, they fell an cafy prey to the Englifh ; no refiflance was made, either here, or at Amhyna^ nor was there a fhot fired, or a man killed, on either fide. T, * This is nearly conformable to the pricesfftated by Abbf Raynal, who fays that the Company paid nine ftivers per pound for the mace^ and one and an eighth for nutmegs ; but the feet is, that the planters were formerly obliged to fur- nift) all their fpice to the Company, upon pain of death for felling to any other, at 14 pfennings, or |- of a ftiver, for the found nutmegs ; half as much for tfaofe which were worm- eaten ; 8 ftivers 5^ pennings for the mace ; and half as much for the duft of mace ; but in the year 1779 a violent hurricane i C 334 } The third covernment is that of Ternatet to which the ifland of Tidore is fubordinate* .The hurricane having ruined moft of thé plantations» the price was advanced to 5^ divers for the nutmegs and 10 fiiven for the mace ; the charges of flkipping both articles, are about one gilder per cwt. ; and taking into calculation, the per Coinages allowed on the weight, as before mentioned, the invoice*value of each, would be as follows : xoeo Ih. nutmegs, delivered by the planters. ^o tt. for 7 per ceiit allowed upon the coUedion ' 930 Ih. paid to the planters, at 3^/. per Ih. ƒ.162- ij 56 /^. for 6 per cent allowed upon the (hipment. 874 tf. neat. Charges of fhipping,/.i* per cwt. 8. i{ 8 74 Ih. nutmegs, therefore^ ilood thcCompany in ƒ. 1 71 . 10 or I ;/. Hi. 10^. (lerling, being about 4-^t^* per pound. 1000 Ih, mace;, paid tothe planters, at loy?. per Z^. ƒ.500. o 120 Ih. for 12 per cent allowed upon the fiiipment, 880 Ih. neat. Charges of fliippiog, ƒ.1 per cwt. 8. 16 880 U. mace, therefore, {h>od the Company in ƒ.508. 16 or 46/. 51. (lerling, being about x2-/i^. per pound. The real quantity of thefe precious fpices, produced in the Banda ifles, has never been exadly known. The largeft quantity of nutmegs fold by the £afl-India Company in Hol- land, at otie time, was 2809964/ii. in the year 1737; ^^ 1756, was fold ft4{,427tf.; and, ia 17781 ^6é^i%^,\ the average t 335 ] The garrifon is computed to amount, alto-^ gether, to fcven hundred men. Ternate is not average has been taken at fl$o,ooo/^. annually, fold In Europe at fcvcnty-five divers per pound, befides about 100,000/^. difpofed of in the Indies, at no lefs a rate. Of mace, the average fold in Europe has been 90,000/^* annually, at/.6 per pound, and 10,000/^. in the Indies. Againft, however the amazing profits accruing upon thefe articles, muft" be confidered, the important expences of the eftablifliment at Banda» Three large (hips are difpatched thither, every year, from J^tftw, with rice and other neceflaries. In the year 1779, the charges amounted to/. 146, 170, and the revenues proceeding from the duties on imports, &c. toy;9,3jo, leav* ing a furplus in the charges of /• 136,820, or about 12,440/. fierling; although the able and intelligent governor general M0SSEL9 in his plan of reform of the Company's affairs in India, calculates, that the revenues of Banda, could be en- creafed to ƒ.90,000, taking, at the fame time, the charges of the eftablifhment at ƒ.155,000, by which the ultimate expence would be reduced by one half. Thefe iflands, however, can never be expeé^ed to yield any advantage, befides that derived from the fpice-trade. Entirely cut off from all the other parts of India, and deprived of all commerce, fave the trifling bartering-trade we have noticed with the indigent natives of the foutheaftern and fouthweftern iflands, they are even defli-* tttte of the means of fubiiflence for their own inhabitants, and muft be fupplied with every neceffary from without. Nature, who has laviihly beflowed upon them, articles of luxury and fuperfluity, has denied them thofe of in» difpenfable neceffity. Banda is likewife accounted a mofl un- healthy place, efpecially at the chief fetdement of Neira. Some attribute this circumftance to the neighbourhood of the volcano» t 33« ] not a fubjeft of fo much folicitude as the iflands juft mentioned, for all the (picc-trccs which it poflefled, are extirpated, and no others may be planted in their (lead *# This Tolcanot in the ifland oïGihuii^Jfi^ and othefs to a deleterious quality in the water. When Admiral Raihibk took pofleiSoaof ^im^ü, he foimd in the treafury 66,67$ nxdollars, and in fiore 84,777/^. nut* megs^ and I9>$87^3* mace. The Ëngliüi £«ft*India Coili* pany fold) o,ooo/^« nutmegs, and 25,ooo/t. roace, at their laft fpring-fale, which was the lirft public fale b £ngland of thefe valuable articles. 71 * The province of 7emafe, includes the iflands of TmuUi^ Tidore^ Motir^ JMetciian, and Bachiati ; which are wliat are properly the Moluccas i they are the original places of growth of the finer fpiccs, and larger nutmegs arc ftiil found in the woods of Ternate^ than any that are produced at Bandu» On the IHand of Tem^tcy in one degree north latitude, is fituate Fort Orange^ which is the refidence of the governor. The Spaniards had a footing in the Moluccas^ as late as the year 1663, at which period they abandoned their eftablifliment at Gammalamma^ wluch was formerly the reüdence of the kings of Tematc\ and the Dutch Eail-India Company proving the ftrongeft in their wars, in 1680, with the confederated kings of the Moluccas^ the kiF)g of Ternate became tributary to them, ^nd the kings of the other iflands were fo far rendered de- pendent upon them» that, in the year 17781 upon fuf|[Hcion of their having fet fome machinations on foot againft the Com- pany, the two powerful kings of^idarc and Bacbian^ were de- pofed, and fent in exile to Batavia^ and their thrones given to other princes, upon condition of their becoming the vaflals of the Company. Some places, fituated iu the eaftern part of i the t 337 i ♦ This province cofts more to the Com- pany, than any profits that accrue from it. the ifland Celehts^ belong Hkewife to this government; the chief of them are Gürmtalo and Manadft ; and the objeél of the Company in fettling there, is principally to furniih pro- vifions for TamatCy that part of Celebes being very fruitful in rice, and other neceflaries. They alfo yield a confiderable quantity of gold, about 24,000 taels, of a dollar and a half in weight, yearly, amounting, at 5/. per tael, to 120,000/. and efculent birds' nefls, which are edeemed a great delicacy by the orientals, and efpecially by the Chinefe, in exchange for which the inhabitants take opium, Indoflan piecegoods, ' chiefly blue cloth, (ine Bengal coflaes and hummums, toge- ther with fome cutlery. Tematc does not, in general, require any fupply oif proviQons from Ja*va, as the ifles of Banda do. Some have given as a reafon for this difference, that, from the commencement of the dominion of the Dutch- in the Molucca iflands, the lives of the inhabitants have been fpared I whereas in Banda^ they were all exterminated, under the pretence tlvit they were a perfidious nation, upon whofe engagements no dependence could be placed ; and now that the cultivation of the foil there has fallen into the hands of a mixture of Euro* peans and Indians, either as proprietors or lefTees of the fpice- plantations, they have not been^able to attend to the propagation of rice or other articles of food. In 1776 — 1777, the efta- blifhment of Ternate confided of fifty- nine perfons in civil employments, three in ecckfiaftical fituations, ten furgeons andaffillants, thirty -weight belonging to the artillery, ai4fcameti and marines employed on fhore, 456 foldiers, and fixty-fevea mechanics, in all 847. In addition to his falary, the governor has a yearly allowance of ƒ 2,400, or about 220/. fterling, for the expenee of entertaining the native princes ; the governor and the fecond in command, have five per cent divided VOL* I. z equally [ 33» 3 it. It is, however, of great importance, to defend the fpice*i(lands, to which, together with five or fix other finall iflands, it ferves as a key. . Thefe are properly the Molucca iflands. A few' years ago, the Englifli efta- bliflied themfelves at a fmall ifland, not far diftant from Ternatej which is called SuUock, but they abandoned it again in 1766. The charges which the Company incur at TernatCf amount to about one hundred and forty thouÉmd gilders per annwn, and the profits on the goods which are confiimed among the natives, to fixty or fevcnty thou- fand *. This equally between them, on the fale of aM goods imported ; and one per cent is allowed on the colledion of gold, to be divid- ed between the governor and the coUeé^or. 71 ♦ The Company pay a yearly fum of /.3a,a50, or nearly 3,000/. fterUng, to the kings of the MoUt€cas^ in confideration of which, they engage to deftroy all the fpice- trees, which are difperfed through the woods of their extenfive iflands, and detachments of Europeans are fent out from time to time, la fee that this extirpation be duly executed. The Company d» not retain poiTeflion of the Afcluccas on account of their in* trinfic value, but for political rcafons, in order to keep other nations from the neighbourhood of Amh'.jina anti Bandm^ to the fccufity [ 339 1 This ifland fufFered greatly in tbc month of Auguft, 1770, by earthquakes. More than iixty violent ihocks were felt in the ipace of four-and- twenty hours, and the fortifications were much injured. Macaffer is the fourth government ; it is fituated on the ifland of Celebes^ part of which is under the dominion of the Com- pany, while they are in ajliance with moft of the native fovereigns of the remainder. The eftablifliment here is equal to thofc of the beforemcntioned governments. There are fortrefles, which are difperfed over the ifland, to keep the natives in awe ; but the chief power of the Company, confifts in the policy of fomenting the mutual jealoufy of fecurity of which the poifeffion of TematewTiS fuppofed greatly to contribute. The expences of government at the Md&ctmSf were calculated by the governor general Mos sbjl« at ƒ.144,500 per annum, and the revenues at/^oyooo^ but» in X779, after the revolution mentioned in a preceding note, the fbrmef were found to amount to /.aa9,4o6, and tlie latter to ƒ. 1x4,997, leaving a deficit of/. 114,409, or about tOj4odL Aeriingy which is a large fum, when we confidcr that die iBother-country derives no advantage from tlus fettlement ; fee the profits on the gold and birds' nefts» belbrementionod, aie oonfamed in India, and fcarcely fvffice to make good the «harge of fending a fliip thither, as is done cveiy year from M^mvi0» with fiores and neceflaries for the governmea;. T. zz the f 340 ] the Indian princes, their alhes, by which they are prevented from uniting, and arc, in confequence, unable to undertake any thing againft the Dutch. The profits of the Company amounted, in the year 1755, to eighty thoufand, and their charges to one hundred and fiftj^-fivc thoufand gilders. Slaves and rice, are the chief obje6b of traffic here ; but the eftablifhment is like- wife confidered of great importance, for the fecurity of the Moluccas^ and the fpicc- iflands *• Upon the ifland of Timor ^ part of which belongs to the Portuguefe, and part to the Dutch, the Company have a fmall Icttle- ment, the profits and expences of which are nearly equal •f» At * Sec the further ample a<ïcoiint of the fcttlement at Macqf- fer^ inMr. Stavorinus's Second Voyage. T. f ^Imor is an ifland lying in the direnly article which induces the Com- pany to retain this poflcifion, for the profits on tiie rough diamonds, gold, wax, canes, and (ago, would not be fufficieat to make good the charges. The refpedive qualities of thefe latter articles are alfo fo inferior, that the trade of the Company in them, is confined to a mere trifle. The circumjacent In- dian nations, and the Chinefe, carry on a great trade with Bar^ nf. The Englifh have fome ellablKhments on the north coaft of B9. tuo, but their fettlemeixt at SiJambtmgtm^ was dc- flroyed, in 1775, by the Soloos, and we know not whether it has been reeftablilhed. They have endeavoured to mr the nutmeg at thefe places. They fucceeded tolerably ia the b^Inning, but either their plants .have degenerated, or they had not originally the genuine kind, for the nut* megs they now produce are much lefs in value, than tbofe which are grown at Bandag and are, • in fad, what are called wild nutmegs, being of an oblong fhape, and a lefs ipky nature than .the true ones. Banjcrmajmg is of no importance to the Company as a fource of revenue, for they do not poflcfe a foot of land, without their fort, and are obliged to be cod- Hantly on their guard againil the infidious attacks of the na- tives; though, in 1769, an order, which was made in i;;^! for all captains of veflTcls going thither, ^* not to land ail the ** cafli they had on board for the faétory, at one time," was withdrawn ; the fort being then thought fufficiently ilrong to withihnd [ 3^3 J élsfi ^l&ge through the ftrSLi^ ^ that name 19 title eaftera part^ of M?» a$ ^ Oiip» withflani apy ajSa\tlt pf the. Indians* The charges of this eftabiiflunent, were, in ^779, /! 13,0911 ^^^ut t,ioo/. fter- liag» which» together with thofp «f coareying the pepper to BfOm^ are jGcarcely ipovcr^d b/ thr profits ac(;ruin^ 09 thb fcanty tmde.. LmuUt and éiffcaJ and the revenu/rs at ƒ.89,000 per annum ; in 1 7^9, however, the former amounted to/. 1 1 5,235, and the latter to /.z6;&,5^o« leaving a balance in favour of the colony of ƒ.49,285, or about 4,480/. dcrling. . This revenue proceeds from the duties laid on imports and exports, a great trade being carried on here by the Indians» and free European merchants of all nations, and from t^e profits on the goods vended by the Company. Of the export-duty of Qlx per cent one fourth i^ allowed, as a perquifite, to the Company's fer- yants, of which, the governor has forty per cent, the fecond in command fifteen, and the reft is didributed, in different pro- portions, to the inferior officers. The governor has alfo an 5 allowance [ 345 ] The fixth government in order, is that of the Nortbeaft Coaji of Java ; the head of which generally refides at Samarang. The Company draw almoft all their rice and timber from this province. All the feaports along this coaft, as far as Cberiborip where chiefs, or refidents, are ftationed by the Company, belong to it. This is faid allowance of one g^der, about u. 9^. per picol, on all the tin colleéted. A large quantity of this article, 3 or 40o,oooi^. weight, is purchafed here every year, at about ƒ.30 per zoo/5; ciiual to about 561. fterring per cmt. which is generally dif- pofed of in Afia. In 17781 however* ioo>ooo/^. was fold in Holland at ƒ.40 per 100/^. This fcttlement likewife yields fome gold, areca, brimflonei and rofin, together with very good mails, for the fmall velTels which are built at Rembang^ and at tbe ifland Onruji. Upon all thefe, the profits are not inconilderable, as the whole of thefe articles are in great requeft throughout the Indies. The commiifioners for the trade on both fides of the llrait, have five per cent oa all purchafes and fales, and one per cent on the gold they collet,, out of which they muft defray their own travelling exprnces. The territorial extent of this government is not very great ; it is confined to the city of Malacca^ and the|neighbouring fmall pro- vince of Pcra^ where the Company have a fort, for protefting the collection of the tin, which is dug there. 'In 1783, Rio^ or Rivw^ fituated Ti employed oa ibore ; 736 foldiers, and A eleven J [ 34» } Ceylon is the eighth government, to which likewife belongs Madura^ fituate on the op- pofite (horc ♦. This eieren mechanics, befides 137 natives. The revenues, and the profits on the merchandize difpofed of, amounted io 1779» for all thefe fcttlemcnis, Negapatnam included» to ƒ427,1 jr, and the charges to /.45a,iJ3. The intelligent Mossel^ who was particularly acquainted with the local circumftances of this coafl, as he was ^yt years governor of the Company's CoromanJeJ fettlements, calculated that the former might be made to amount to /.5»o,ooo, and the lat- ler reduced to ƒ.260,000. One or two fhips are annually difpatched direfl to Europe, with piecegoods, and caliatour- wood, the reft go iirft to Batavia. The value of the piece- goods, fold in 1778, in Holland, was ƒ. 2,000^000, about 1 8 1,8 1 8/. fteriing; and of cal iatour- wood 200,000/^. were fold at ƒ.20 per loo /^. It is computed that twenty -five per cent is gained on both articles. The whole of the Dutch fettlements on this coaft are now in pofTeffion of the Englilh, T, * Ceykn lies between 6? and 9^^ north. Tlie ftniggles between the Dutch and Portuguefe, for this ifland, lafted from 1658 to 165 5, in which laft year the latter were entirely driven from it, by the lofs of Colomho. ' This place, which is wcU fortified, is the chief fettlement, and the refidence of the gover- iK)r; it is fituated on the weft fide of the iftand, and at the broadeft part of it. Candy^ the metropolis of the idand,' and the feat of the ertperor, lies about fixteen Dutch miles, inland, from C9lomh ; it was taften in 1 764, by the Dutch, but rc- ilored to the empc;ror by the fubfequent peace. The difïrift of Co'tmho extends about tv'emy leagues in length, and eight ^ i« [349 J This extenfive ifland may be faid to be en- tirely under the dominion of the Company fmce iQ breadth; it abounds in cinnamon-groves and rice-fields» black catilc and poultry, and is very populous, , There Is a feminarium at Colombo^ for the propagation of the cbriflian re- ligion ; and it is computed, that there are 300,000 native chriftians in CeyUn, ) The road of CoUmU is unfafe, and only praélicable for a few months in the year. Five leagues north of Colombo is Kegomboy a fortrefs of lefs confideration, but the cinnamon produced in its diftriiEl is the beft of the ifland ; it likewife yields a large quantity of coir for cordage. Jaffna» patnam is a place of confequence, ftrongly fortified, lying oppo- iite to, and not far from, the continent of Indoflan ; it is the capital of what was formerly a kingdom, nearly lixty leagues in circumference: elephants form the only obje^ of trade of this country for the Company ; this, however, yields, in gene- ral, a profit of ƒ.56,000, about 4J50/. fterling, yearly. A confiderable number of thefe animals are delivered annually to the Company, by the native princes in this diftrid, who are, on that confideration, left in pofTeifion of the fovereignty over the country, and the inhabitants. TrincontmaU is on the oppofite fide of the ifland, thirty-five leagues from Jaffnapat^ ' nam. Fort Ooflenburg^ which ftands upon a cliff, projend$, amethyfts, &c. Dr. Trunbekg has given a curious lift of all the kinds which he met with at Ceyhm. Tbc digging of them i^ farmed out by the government ; and though trifling, is one of the objeAs of revenue of the ifland. Thefe amounted, in 1779, altogether, to/.6z 1,704, while the charges of the whole eftablifliment were ƒ.1,24 3,03s, which makes the expence of the Company in maintaining Ceykg^ ultimately amount to/.63 1,3 34, or 57,394/. fterling, but this is eafily borne by the immenfe profits attached to the exdufive cinnamon -trade, and the other articles brought from this ifland, as before noticed. In 1755, however, when MossEt drew up his flatements, Ceyhn appeared id a very different light; he made the revenues and profits amount to/. 1,1 68,000* and the charges only to/ 902,500, by which it appears, that the ifland was then fully able to maintain itfclf. Yet there arc many caufes which may be fuppofed to contribute to this dif- ference : the failure of the revenue from the pearl- fifliery; the augmentation of the territory of the Company by the peace of 1766, and confequent increafe of their military force, &c. In 1776— 1777, the eftabliftiment at C^y/pjr, confif^ed of, 416 perfons in civil, and 33 in eccleflaftical, ofiüces, J4 fprgeons and aiTiftants, 315 belonging to the artillery, 61$ feamen add marines employed on fhore, 2,397 fold iers, and 243 mechanics, in al!^ 4,073 Europeans, befides 1,22 ( natives. /• the [ 355 ï the emperor of IndoftoHj or the Great MoguL It is the fame at Surat^ where, as iq Bengal^ they have a lodge, or fadory, for the fecu- rity of their goods, and their juriföiöioii does not extend far beyond its limits. From Bengal^ they receive piecegoods, faltpetre, and opium. From Surat, pieccgoods, va- rious forts of Indian drefles, &c. . The Company's pofleflions on the coaft of Malabar^ are under a commandant. The chief produce is pepper, which is eftecmcd the beft of all India *. From the weft coaft of Sumatra^ are brought, gold, camphor, and pepper -f . Bantam * Mr. Stavorinos enlai^es, refpeéling Bengal^ ia the tiext book ; refpeéling Suraty in the ftd and 3d books of his fecond voyage ; and refpefting the coaft of Malabar^ in the tjth and r4th chapters of the 4th book. T, f Befides Lampen^ which has been mentioned among the de- pendencies of Bantam^ the Dutch have a fettlement at Padatigy on the weft coaft of Sumatra, to which the faélories at PuU Cbittco^ PriamaHy and AdgerbadjA^ arc fubordinate. At Ptf- ^ang^ there is a fort, with a garrifon of fifty or fixty men, and the chief of the fettlement has the rank of merchant. Some pepper, camphor, and benzoin» are furniftied from this coaft, but ever (ince the efttblifliment of the Englifli fettlement ^xBen^ cff^en^ in this neighbourhood, the Dutch complain that pepper is procured in vtrry fmall quantities; they, however, likewife colleft and export annually to Batavia^ about two thoufand A A 2 five [ 3S6 ] Bantam is a commmandery, from which the Company draw ihe greateft quantity of pepper. On the inner, or eaftern, coaft of Sumatra^ they have a fettlement at Paiembqng^ whence they receive pepper and tin ♦• Moft five hundred tials of gold, the quantity never exceeds thiee thoufiuid tials, nor fails ihort of two ; a tial is twenty-fix pen- ny-weights twelve grains ; the purchafe price b high^ being nearly 3/. ^s. fterling, per ounce. There is a vein of gold which runs clofe to Padang^ and, fome years ago, it was worked, but not finding returns adequate to the expence, the Company let it to farm, and, in a few years, it fell into fuch low repute, as to be difpofed of at a rent of two Spanifh dol- lars, by public auction. In 1779, ^^ books of Fitdmtg fhewcd a baUnce in favour of the efbblifhment of /.ao,90», about 1,900/. flerling, the charges being/.53,675i and on the other hand, the profits accruing on the Ü\% of piecegoods, fait, &c. ƒ.749577 : which is fufficlent to defray the expence offending a fhip thither annually from Batavia^ with neceCkries for the fettlement. Fadangy and its dependencies, are, at prefent, ia the hands of the Englld). The whole eflablifliment of the | Dutch oh the weft coall of Sumatra^ including Lamfn^ was, in 1 7 76- r7 7 7, thirty perfons in civil employments, five fur* geonsand affidants, two belonging to the artillery, thirteen marines, 104 foldiers, and twenty -one mechanics, in ail, <;{ Europeans» befides uinety-feven natives in the fcrvice of the Company. T, * Falemianghcs about ten or twelve days* fail from BtiUniê. The dominions of the king oi Pakmhtmg ztt extenfive; the/ roach as far as the hills of LmmpM to the fouthward, and com* preheod [ 357 3 Moft of the coffee fold by the Company, is brought from their fettlement at Cberibm in Java. One prehend the ifland of Btmem^ which lies oppofite to the river of FmUmhmg. This ifland is celebrated throughout Aiia, for the lame caufe, its tinxnines, to which England owed its celebrity in Europe, in very ancient times, before its arts and arms had fpread its &me around the globe. The tinmines in BMÊea^ which were firil difcovered in 1710 or 171 1, have yielded inv menfe quantities of ore, and appear inexhauftible. There are feven cliief placed where it is dug, which are under the di* reétion of Chinefe managers, who provide and pay for the labour of the miners, who are alfo, in general, of that nadon. The tin is delivered by thefe chiefs, to the king of Palimhang^ for five rixdoUars per ia$ pounds, and by him to the Dutch for fifteen rizdollars, equal to about $8j. -fierling per cwt, EngKfli. The Company do not, however, always take all that is brought; for in 1770, the government at Bata'via^ refolved, ^ not to <* receive more than 2^,000 picols, of 13$//. each, firom ^ PaUmhang every year, and as 5,000 picols more, had been ^ delivered that year, no more than 20,000 ihould beac* ^ cepted in the next, of which due notice ihould be given to " the king." And yet the Dutch endeavour to prevent the tin from being difpofed of to any others, and keep veflels con* tinually cruifing along the fliores, to prevent the fmuggling of ft ; but their vigilance is eluded, and the commerce b largely participated by private adventurers. Raynal and others, (late the quantity of tin, received by the Dutch Company* at 2,000,000/^. ; but from the above, it appears, that they take; at leaft, 3,000,000/^. But very litde of it comes to Europe ; hi 1778, 70o,oooM. were fold in Holland at y.42 per loo/^. ; the greateft part goes to the China-market, where it b pre- A A 3 ferred \ [ 358 ] One of their moft advantageous branches of commerce, is that which they carry on to Japan ; they fend one or two (hips thi- ther every year, and are admitted to trade there, exclufively of all other nations, the Chinefe alone excepted. A fmall ifland, called Decima, in the ferred to European tin»«and the profit upon it, is fuppofed, bf a late intelligent traveller, Sir Gsorgi Stauntov, not to bo lefSf any jear, than I50»ooo/. fierHng, thovgh» by the Dutch account of their China«>tradef which is given a little farther On» this feems to be an extravagant computation. The king is under drift engagements to the Dutch, to allow them an excluQvc trade throughout his dominions, and to deliver all the tin, and pepper, produced in them, at Batstoia^ fending them thither in his own (hips, and at his own cxpence. The quantity of pepper brought annually firom P^Itmèmngf is about 9,000,000/^. which is purchafed at the rate of two ftiven per pound. The Company likewife take about 1000 carats of rough diamonds, and a coniiderable quantity of caocs and rattans. Very ftw goods are given in exchange for thefe articles, and a large fum in fpecie is yearly required to balance with the king. In 1779, the profit on the few things difpoied of at PaUmèan^f amounted only to/. 3,9221 and the charges of the fettlement were ƒ.49,677, making it ftand the Company for one year in /•4S»7SS» 0^ ^^^^^ 4,160/. fterling. In I771, they rebuilt their old ruinous fort, in a pentagonal form, and ibe coft of the new one was computed to be ƒ 80,546, about 7,322/* Oerling. Their eflablifhment here, confided, in 1776— 1777. of II j Europeans, viz. üx 'm their civil fervicc, one clerg>man, two furgcons, fixty-one Teamen and marines, twenty-nine foldiers, and fixteen mechanics. T. harbour, C 359 1 harbour of Nangafakku has been ceded to fhem ; and the merchandize they import h tended and houfed there *. This trade is confided to a chief, who is fènt out from Batavia every two years. The charges of this eftablilhment, amount to full one hundred thoufand gilders every year ; the half of which, is the value of the annual prefents to the emperor oïjapan^. * Decima, is fittiatcd in 4»^ north latitude. The voyage from Bata'via to Jap4n generally lafts about thirty days. The navigation is very dangerous, and the Dutch havr, for the laft- hundred years, loft one out of every five fhips that go thither. For an account of the excclBve jealoufy and fuf- picion of the Japanefe, and their treatment both of the Dutch and of the Chinefe, as well as of numerous other par- ticulars relative to Japfn^ and)>efore little known in Europe, Uie reader cannot be better referred, than to the ample and curioui relations, to be found in the third and fourth volumes of Dr. Thunbero's travels. T. f The Company ïiave only about ten or twelve of their fervants rcfident in Japan. The charges amounted, in 1 779, to ƒ.96,356; the greatcft part whereof confifts, as above, of prefents to the emperor, and the expences of the journey undertaken yearly to %^#, for the ofFt?ring of theni : on the other hand, the profits arifing from the fale of goods were jf. 106,802, leaving a furplus of full ƒ.10,000 ,or nearly 1,000/. fteriing'j fo that nothing remains to be deduced fiom the pro« fits on the returns (for which, fee the next note) but the ex- pences of the fbips fent, and the calculated iofs, as before mentioned, of one veiTcl in five. T, A A 4 The [ 36o ] The principal articles that are (hipped to yapan^ are tortoife-ihells^ Baros camphor from Sumatra and BorneOj Dutch woollens» and iiigar ; in return for which, we receive yapah camphor» copper, china, and lac* quered ware *. The trade to Cbina^ generally employs four (hips every year ; thefe are difpatched direöly from Holland, and only touch at * The two ihips which go yearly to JapM^ uAially take the value of /.{oo^ooOy about 45t4$o/« in fugar, ikpanwood, elephant»* teeth, tortoife-fliell, camphor, tin, lead» quickfilver, chintzes, cottons, Dutch woollens, vennillion, wax, cloves, nutmegs, pepper, china-root, and fome filver in ducatoons. Their returns confift, for the greateft part, in Japan copper, which is in fmall bars, of about fix inches long, and about one-third of a pound in weight ; of thefe they receive eight or nine thoufand boxes, each containing zajtf. which they pay at the rate of /j i per box, and difpofe of it in Bengal^ at Swratf and on the coafts of Coromaitdel and Malabar^ for ƒ.90, and/.9i : they likewife take about $0,000/^. Japan camphor, two*iifths of which is retailed in India, and the red comes to Europe; and alfo a trifling amount in foy, china, lac* quered ware, and large (ilk nightgowns. The private trade of the Dutch officers and (hips' crews to Japan, is alfo very confiderable, as well as profitable ; they carry out, camphor, china-rooty fafiVon. Venice treacle, Spanifli liquorice, ratins, fpeéhicles, looking- glaifes, watches, manu&ftured glafs,and unicorns' horns (the horn of the wuifJên mtiuen:)^ and re- cdve in return, foy, filks, filk nightgowns, china, lacquered ware, fims, and fine rice. T. Baiavuij [ 36i ] Batavia^ in going out, in order to take in a cargo of Banpa tin^ which is difpofed of tft much advantage in China : but when they return to Europe, they only anchor at North Ifland, not far from the ftraits of Sunda, to take in water, without touching zXBatavia. The time when they fet (ail from Batavia for Cbina^ is generally about the beginning of July *• The * The Dutch fiiAory at Canton^ is not, like all their other fettlements, and places of trade, in India, fubordinate to the government at Batawa^ but has, for upwards of forty years, been under the management of a fpecial committee of di- reftors in Holland ; yet every thing relative it, is commu* nicated to, and tranfaéted in concert with, the government at Batavia^ The cargoes of the four or five ihips, which the Dutch fend annually to CbitM^ amount in value to /•ft,4öo,ooo; or/.», 500,000, about 225,000/. fterling, one half of which confifts in filver, either in bars, or Spanifh dollars, and the other half in tin, lead, pepper, cloves, and nutmegs, upon which articles a profit of, at leaft, /.óóojOOo» about 6o,ooo/. fterling, is made. For the above capital, the Company's: agents purchafe between four and five millions pounds of tea, of all forts, and a quantity of filks, nankeens» china, turmeric, &c. We fubjoin a Kft of the quantities of tea, exported in Dutch (hips from China, for the twenty years between 1776 and 1795 : 1778 Yean. Ships. lit. tea. 1776 . . 5 . . 4.9a3»7oo. '777 . . 4 . . 4,856,500. t 362 ] Thci Company nfed formerly to trade tQ Cacbinchinay ^cnquin^ Stanij Figu^ Aracën^ Pérfia^ and Modba ; bot they have now abandoned all commerce with thefè places. Their conneétions are, at prefent^ limited to thofe I have before (hortly noticed ; and among thefe, there are feveral, whicb, in my opinion,, are more piejudicial than ad- vantageous to the Company ; efpecially thofe in the weft of India ; which muft be afcribed to a change of times, and of cir- cumftances. Years. Ships. lbs. tea. 1778 . . 4 . • 4»69S,7oo. 1779 • • 4 • • 4»553»io«' 1780 . . 4 . . ^^^fioo. 1781 . • 4 • . 4^S7A>o. 1782] 1785 >none» on account of tbe war. 1784J 1785 • • 4 • • 5»334.a»- 1786 . • 4 • . 4,458,800. 1787 . . 5 . . . 5,943,200. 17&8 . • 5 • • 5»794.9<»- 1789 . . 4 • ' 4,i79i6oo- 1790 . . S • • 5,106,900. 1791 . . 3 • • i,3»«,$oo. 179» . . 2 . . a.o5'i33«- »793 • • 3 • • 2.938.530- 1794 . . » . . «,417,200. «795 • • 4 • • 4,096,800. When [ 3^3 ] When the Company cftabliflicd their commerce in thofe parts, their rivals were very inconfiderable j the £ngli(h were not a match for them, and the Indian princes traded rather with the Dutch, than with their neighbours. But this is now entirely altered. The Englifli, who did not then come in* to any confidcration, are now as ftrong, . and perhaps ftronger, in the weft of India, than the Dutch Company are in the eaft. They have prefcribcd laws to the empe- ror of Indoftan, and are, in confequence, mafters of the whole trade of his dominions, efpecially at Surat and in Bengal, where the Company ufed to make important profits, both by the goods which they imported, and , thofe which they exported. If the fea-riik, the (hips* charges, and the intereft of tlie money employed, were accurately computed, their prefent gains, would, perhaps, be found to be extremely trifling. Not only the Englifh, but almoft all the naval powers of Europe, have at prefent /hips trading to the ladies, and eftablifli-* ments C 364 ] ments of more or Icfs confcqucnce^ in the wcfterii parts. The trade in piccegoods, which in former times, produced fuch confiderable benefit ta the Company» is now almoft entirely in the hands of the Englifh ; at leaft they are very detrimental to the portion of it that ftill remains with \js, by their competition for purchafes. I (hall not fay any thing of the honefty and fidelity of the Company's chiefs at their out*fa£lories : that is out of the line I pro- poie following : when I was in Bengal, I had an opportunity of obferving fome in- ftances» not very confonant with the above virtues ; and it is not many years ago, that the Company had proofs of the like, in the government of the Coromandel coaft. On the other hand, the number of of- ficers, and their appointments, remain the fame; and a numerous body of ufelefs placemen, and too many military^ are main- tained by the Company* If the trade in Bengal^ at Sur at j and on the coaft of Coromandel, were reduced to the fame regulations» as that to China and Japan i Japan ; and if, inftead of cxpenfivc fortU ficationsy trading-houfes, or fadories, were only retained, the profits, which are ac* tually made, would remain, and the pre* ferit charges, would be amazingly diminifli* ed« It cannot, in my opinion, be of any real advantage to the Company, that they pretend to appear as a fbvereign ftate, where they have not an exclufive trade, and where they cannot interdid the trade of every other nation. At Ceylon^ Java^ and the other iflands in the eaftern parts, where they have the territorial property, and the Ibvereign power, it is neceflary both to difplay, and to maintain, their do- minion I for there they can, and juftly, dif- pute the right of all others, whether au- thorized traders or interlopers; but it is money thrown away, to pretend to make a (hew of fovereignty, at the before-men- tioned places, for it augments neither their commerce, nor their refburces. The goods which they carry thither, and which cannot be furniflied by any other na« tioD» the Dutch being the fole dealers in them, (lich as the finer ipices, and Japan copper, are of a nature, which renders them indif^ [ 3«6 ] indirpeniaUe ia tbe weft of India. Their ih:ps loaden with tbefe articles» would be^ with pleafurc, fucceffivély received, and thcy would fpeedily and gladly be bartered for cargoes of other commodities» • Moreover, there wouid be the advantage, that the condu<5lors, having to füperintend a lefs extend ve concern, would the better be enabled to difcover, and reform, all errors and abufcs : whereas the extent of the ob- jeft under their controui, atFords, at prefent» innumerable openings for mifconduél and miftakes, which undermine the whole fu* perftruöurCk The English have not only been very prejudicial to the trade of the Company in the weft of India, but have alfb endea* Voured, if not to fupplant them in the en-» tire poflcffion of Ceylon^ at ieaft to partici- pate in the advantages of that rich ifland. At the time of the laft war in Ceykrt^ when the Company had blocked up all tbe harbours, with their (hips, and the empe- ror was nearly reduced to be befieged in his capital, the Englifh fent an embaffador from Madras to the emperor, with an offer of affiftance to ^pel the Dutch ffom his do- minions, [ 3^7 ] inixubnsy for wiich purpofe they would pro- vide a large number of fhips. But their own. pertinacity was the rcaibn that the alliance was not . formed in time ; for the embaflador would not comply with the oriental cuftom of addrefi, which is elpe* cially prevalent in Ceylon^ and to which the Dutch were ufed to conform ; that is, he refiifed to proftrate himfelf upon the ground, or fall upon bis knees, when he was firft introduced into the prefence of the emperor. Several weeks thus elapfcd before he had an audience ; and in the mean time, matters had taken a ftill more decided afpeö in our favour, fo that, the clandedine attempts of our iecret enemies^ were, in this inftance, fruibated. I was exceedingly furprizcd when I faw at Batavia, that, although the trade in piece» goods, and in opium, was prohibited to pri- vate individuals of our own nation, the Englifh were not only allowed to bring whole cargoes to Batavia ; and to difpofe of them there, but were facilitated in every refpeft, in the difpofaL Thefc indulgence» were not confined to the above, but were extended to all forts of commodities, both Indian C 3«8 J Indian and European, to the great detri- ment of our own ihips' officers and crews, who were not allcflved to import their wares ; and they who did bring fbme pri- vileged goods, were forced to fell them at a iofs, on account of the glut occafioned by the quantities imported by the £ngli(h. The exportation of fugar too, was likewife prohibited to our own people, but the Eng* li(h were furnifhed with as much as they aiked for» out of the Company's warehoufes. Their fhips, upon paying for the work done, were allowed to be repaired by the Company's fervants at the ifland Onrujl. In Auguft, 1769, 1 faw eight Englifli (hips, lying at that ifland, and three more in the roads of Batavia. lu the following year, however, the government feemed, in fbme meafure, to have a different opinion ; for they then rcftriöed the Englifli to the tak- ing if! of water and wood ; which every one hoped might be of long continuance. The Company have another objed of expence, lince the year 1742, which did not perhaps then appear in fb detrimental a light, as at prefent. I mean the pre- miums which are given to the fliips' crews returning [ 369 ] rtturriing home^ and whkh were allowed as an itidëmnification for the articles of trade, which, before that time, they were permitted to bring home with them from Indi^; but this was fb much abufed, that the Cobupany^s (hips were crammed with the private property of the crews^ in fo far, |hat now and theii, a (hip was loft in confequence of being too deeply loaden. In how far, by putting a ftop to this pri- vate trade, fuch accidents have, in reality, been prevented, may be beft feen, by com- paring the number of the fliips loft, for thirty years, before the year 1742, with thofe loft fince. For my own part, I be- lieve, that very little difference would be found. It is of courfe, that the veiTels, loft in Table Bay, or other roads, which cannot be attributed to overloading, muft not be taken into the account. The Company have already expended the fum of eighteen millions of gilders, in thefe premiums, as will appear from the rough calculation fubjoined, in which I have taken rather too little than too much* The premiums for every (hip returning home (eftimating the crews, one with an- voir. I. B B other. C 37^ 3 otker, at wm huadred and twenty hands, ^r each ihip) amount to full /ix 8,000, as follows : t captain, receives for prttmium ƒ! 2,000 I captain's maté • • • 500 I fecond mate . • 4 400 I furgeon • • • • 400 t other mates, /I300 each • 600 I chaplain . • • * 300 ao under*officers, one with an- other, ƒ. 200 each • 4,000 24 fcamen, earning upwards of ƒ10 ^BMxithly wages, ƒ 150 each 3,600 66 ditto, and boys, under yiio yi 100 each « . 6,6o# ïiy men 3 (uppo(èd to have died oh the other fide of the Cafe of Good Hopey who receive nothing. 120 men So that every fhip's crew re- ceive for premiums . • yi 1 8,400 I ■ ■ wii I I IP Whkh, t m 1 Which, however, in order to make a round fum, 1 only take at . . . ƒ.18,000 And computing that fince the year 1742, twenty-five ihips have annually returned from India, confidering one year with another, the whole a* mount in premiums, for one y^ar» is . . • . ƒ.450,000 Since the navigation has been put upon this footing, that is, from 1742 to 1 77 1, twenty- nine years have elapfed ; fb that during that period, the Company have paid premi- ums to the amount of . ƒ13,050,000 The intereft of this capital for twenty-fcvenyears,at three per cent per annum, which is annually augmented by ƒI3>5oo, amounts to * . 5>io3,ooo So • Inftead of fimple intereft, at three per cent per annum, for twenty-feven years, we fhould take compound intereft. BBft at t S7^ ] So that the Company have loft afum, for which they have no adequate benefit, of . ƒx8,153,000 May not the decay of Batavia^ whofe chief fupport is the free trade of its in- habitants, be, in fonie meafure, likewife afcribed to this caufe ? People well wor- thy of credit, who have lived for forty years, and more, at Batavia^ have alTured roe, that there is an inconceivable diiFerence between the aélual ftate of the city, with refpcft to trade, and its flouri(hing fituation, before the year 1 740. Free inhabitants, who had never been in the fervice of the Company, ufed then to return to Europe loaden with riches, very few inftances of which occur 1 at prefent. Here in Holland, we may, in I confequence, plairfly perceive, that there is little chance of making money at prefent, at Batavia, by private trade, and it is well known, that it grows worfe from day to day. • at the fame rate, for twenty-nine years, which would amount 107.7,316,5001 and the whole fum loft to the Company» daring that period, by this regulation, would be/.ao, 366,500, or «bout 1,85 1,500/. T, It [ 373 3 It is true, that the Company at home, arc uaable to reform all the abuies, which have crept in, from time to time, in fudti an extent of territory, as they poiTefs in the Indies ; but they are too well acquainted with the actual ftate of Batavia ; and the prolperity, or decay of that city^ which is the center, and, as it were, the pivot of all their poffeffions, is of too great and real importance to their interefts, than that they ought not to endeavour to raife it out of that languid ilate, into which it is pro* greffively falling. • Another thing, which is a great draw- back upon the profperity of Batavia, is the unhealthinefs which has been perceived there, for feveral years back. The moft probable caufe hereof, may be fcught, in the great encreafe of the mudbanks, along the feacoaft ; the water only juft covers them ; or they are flooded by the tide,which^ when it recedes, leaves a thick flime be* hind it, together with a great deal of ani- mal matter, thrown up by the fea, various kinds of blubber, and other marine pro- duftions, which immediately putrify, by the burning heat^ and contaminate the air, B B 3 uniting [ 374 ) unitiag with the noxious exlialations of the fwamps and inoraflee near the town. The opinion, th^t the unbealthine& of the place may be chiefly attributed to thi^ cauie, ieems to be corroborated by the circuio* ilance, that the ravages of iickue^ and dearth, are much lefs in the upper parts of the city, which lie the fartheft from the fea, than in and near the caftlev which is clofe to the mudbanks, apd fwamps. The mud thus thrown up, already reaches, on tl;ie eail fide of the river^ more than two thoufand feet out from the dry ground. I have already faid fbmething of the pro- vince of Jaccatrn ; namely, that it is a pof- feflion of the Company, fubdued by their arms, whofe natives are their imipi^di^te fubjeds,^ governed by thp council of India, and more particularly under thje eye of the governor general. A perfon is appointed by the governor^ under the title of commiffary of inland af- fairs, who rèprefents the fovereign, in the interior of the country. . He adjufts all differences which arife be- tween the native grandees, with the pre- knowledge of the governor general, and exads all [ 37J ] 9ll penalties and fines which are kid upon them, the greateft part of the profits b^ which, accnie to him. He is feared and^ Tcipc€t^ó, like a prince, in the interior parts, ae the happinefs of everjr indivickial, is al- moft entirely in his power. The regepts, who are his coadjutors in the adminiilration of the land, are taken from among the natives. The firft in rank, are the (tdapatis^ to whom the go^ yernment of a large diftrid is entrufted. Then follow the tammagongs^ who are, how- ever, much lower in rapk, haviqg the di- region over a proportionate fmaller extent of country ; although each of them ibuids alone in his local jurifdiétion. Thefè have ingbebées under them, who are as much as lieutenants, and before whom difputes of . little importance, between the inhabil;ants of their diftridts, are fettled ; yet the par*- ties may appeal to the commiflary» It is only when very important matters pccur, in which the Company have a par- ticular intereft, that they are brought to the cognizance of the government at jBtf- tavidj and fettled by them; but this does not often happen, B B 4 The [ 37<5 ] The epmtnÜTaryy who refidcs without tbc city, has a guard of natives every ni^t at his houie, and twenty, or twenty-four arm^ ed attendants, who are Javanefb, and ftand ready to e:g:ecute his commands ; al( being in the pay of the Company. The chief produAions yielded by this province, are fugar, coffee, indigo, and cofe- ton*yarn. The revenues which the Company draw fromjt, amount annually to full one million of gilders. The original letters, which are written by the council of India, to the Indian princes, are compofed in the Dutch language, and figned by the governor general, and by the fecretary, in the name of the government ; but tranflations are always added, in the Malay, Javanefe, or whatever other lan- guage be that of the prince, to whom the letter is addrelled. For this purpofe, there are feveral tranflators at Batavia^ who are well paid, and have the rank of mtx^ chants. The letters, which are fent by the In- dian princes, to the government, are written upon ( $77 I upon gold» or (ilver, flowered paper ^, and are brought to the council with much ce-^ xcmony. The letter which the emperor of Candy ♦ In the caftcrn parts of India, paper is prepared from the bark of trees ; at Oyhn^ and on the adjacent continent, the leaves of the borafTus palm-tree (bvrajjus fimhtUtformU)^ «nd fometimes of the talpat-tree (licuplafpniitfa)^ ate ufed ixi^ ilead of paper. The leaves of both thefe palm-trees, lie in folds, like a fan, and the flips (land in need of no further pre* paiation, than merely to be feparated, and cut fmooth with a knife. Their mode of writing upon them* confifis in en* graving the letters with a fine pointed (leel : and in ordec that the charaéters may b^ the better feen and reacl, they rub them over with charcoal, or fome ^other black fubflance. The iron point made ufe of for a pen, is either fet in a brafs l^andle, and carried abopt in a wooden cafe, of about ii:p inches in length, or elfe it is formed entirely of iron ; an(l together with the blade of a knife, defigned for the purpofe qf cutting the leaves, and making them fmooth, fet in a knife- handle, common to them both, and into whicl^ it (huts up. When a iingle flip is not fufficient, feveral are bound toge- ther, by means of a hole made at one end> and a thread on which they are firung. If a book be to be made, they look o^3^ principally for broad and handfome flips of talpat-leaves, upon which they engrave the charaéèers very elegantly, and accurately, with the addition of various figures, by way of ornament AU the flips have then two holes made in them, ^nd are fbiing upon a filken cord, and covered with two thin lacquered boards. By means of the cords, the leaves are ^eid even together, and by being drawn out when they are ipanted to be ufed, they may be feparated from each other af pleafure. 71 ' fent [ 37» ] lent to the government at Batoffia^ mft«r the conclufiou of peace, containing the AUi powers of his embafiadors to negociate oon^ ceroiog certain matters, which coukl not be adjufted at Ceylon, was written upon a leaf of beaten gold, in the ihape of a cot coa-leaf s the letters were engraved ufxm it, with a fieel pen, in a moft curious man- ner. This leaf was rolled up, and infertecl in a cylindrical cafe of gold» which wm wound all round with a row of pearls, firing upon gold thread. This cafe was in a box of many gold, and this again in one of iilver, which was fealed with the eoapefor's great feal, impreffcd in red wax. The filvcr bole was inclofed in one of ivory, which was put in a bag of rich doth of gold; and finally, a bag of fine white linen, fealed up, with the emperor*s lefTer fignet, encircled the whole. When thefe embaflfadors had their audi- ence of the council of India, they were re- ceived with extraordinary honour ; all the members of the aflembly flanding up, both when they came * in, and when they weat out, though without uncovering their heads. When the embafïadors left Batavia, they were C 379 ] were eac^ pr«r«atcd mth agojd chaiii, hj the council. All goods^ which are carried ioto, or eujt of Batavia, axe fubjt £t to duties, which ar^ levied at the bar, at the entrance Qf the city, Tbefe, as well as the other taxes and ini<* pofts» are annually fanned out^ generally to Qhioefe. The whole of them amount together, upon aui average, to 32,000 rix^ dollars, or f.jé^Zoo per month, making yi 92 1, 600 p?r annum ♦• Oi the feveral ifland^ which lie be&rcf Batavia \f there are no more than four^ which are made any ufe of, by the Company, and of thefe, that of Onruji is the principal. Thig ifland lies about three leagues n.w« from Batavia ; it is nearly round ; it riièfi fix Of eight feet above the furfece of the water, and is of fmall extent, being about * About 83,800/. fierliog. T. f They lure, in all, fifteen in number, and have the follow* ing names given to them: Onrufi^ Jk Kuifer^ Purmertnd^ Euvels Onrujiy Rotterdam^ Scbiedafitj MiddUhurgb^ Amfterdam^ Ham, Barkm^ EdoMy Eukhui%€n^ Alkmaar^ Leydeu^ and J^ader Smit. The two firft arc the innermoft» and 'are fronting» and wilhin fight of tht city. T, four C 380 ] four thoufand eight hundred feet in circum*- ference. In the center of the ifland, and within a fort» confifting of four baiHons, and three curtains, ftand the warehoufes and other buildings. On thefe fortifications, and on three fmall outworks, which are con- ftrufted at the water's edge, the walls of all which are whitened with lime, are mounted fixteen pieces of cannon, of various fizes*. f In the year 1730, under the government of the governor general Durvbn, a fmall church, with a ftecple^ >vas crcftcd here ; where fervice is performed on Sundays by a * •« The fortified ifland of Onruft;* fays paptainPA»UH, ^ is well (ituated to command the channel that afford^ the *' principal paflage into the road. The work upon that ifland ** was of a pentagonal form ; its baftlons were fmall and low, *^ not more than twelve fe^t thp high^ft; and not always •f connected by curtains. A few batteries weye lately con- *^ ilruifled on the dutfide of this work, tliat bore towards the ** fea. On thefe, and on the bafiions, about forty goji$ *< were mounted, in different direflions. South of this^ wa« «« another ifland" (this muft be that f:all^ dg KuifetJ^ «« at *^ the diftance of a few hundred yayds, on which two bat» " teries, mounting together twelve guns, bad been lately " ereéled." Tliis account dates in 1793, and proves that^he Dutch have become fenfible of what is alleged in this work, page 255, that the for tifi cations at the mouth of the river, are iafufficient to proteft the road. T: plergymacf, t 3»' ] clergyman, who comts hither from B/itavia^ for that purpofe, every week. The Company have here ten or twelve large warehoufes, which are almoft always quite full of goods ; pepper, japan copper, ialtpetre, tin, caliatour-wood, fapan-wood, &c. They are under the direftion of two admin iftrators, who, as we have before men* tioned, have very lucrative places. On the north fide of the ifland, (land two fawmills ; and on the fouth fide, there is a long pier-head, on which are three large .wooden cranes; ereftcd for the purpofc of fixing mafts in (hips, or ui^ftepping them. Three (hips can lie here, behind each other, alongfide of the pier, in deep water, to be repaired, or to receive or dif- charge their cargoes. There is another pier, a little more to the weft ward, called the Ja- pan pier, where one more (hip can lie, to load or unload. There is twenty, and more, feet water againft the piers, and it rifes and falls, about five feet, once in four-and-twenty hours. All the Company's (hips that require it, are hove down at the wharfs along the piers, and receive t 3»* 1 receive every tieccflary rej^aration ^itli èafè and difpatch ♦. The government of the iftand, and the direflion over the repairs of (hips which take place here, is intrufted to a maftcr-car- penter, who b?is the management of every thing, except what relates to the departments of the adminiftrators of the warehoufes. His office is eftccmed. a very profitable one, and hé has the rank of fenior merchant. Though the ifland is but fmall, the number of people dwelling upon it, is fuppofed to be near three thoufand, among whom there are three hun- dred European workmen. About fixteen hundred feet from Onrufi^ is the ifland de Kuiper^ or Covper^^ Ifle, which is one-third lefs in fize than Nthe former. The Company have feveral warehoufes up- on it, in which coffee is chiefly laid up. There are two pier-heads, where veffels may load and difcharge, at its fouth fide. Thert ♦ *• It Wdrid he iftjutticc,»' feys Captain CooA, « to Oe' ^ officeis and workmen of this yard, not to deciare, tha^ •* in my opinion, there is not a marineyard in the world,' •• where a fliip can be laid down, with more convenience, ^ f«rfety, tn4 difpatch, nor repékeA with more diUgtiice mi ^ &iü.» T. . ' are t 3«J 1 are feveral large tamarind-trees intcrfperfcd over the ifland, which afford an agreeable ihade. The workmen who are employed here ia the daytime, are fetched away at night to Onrujij and cmly two men remain behind, as a watch, together with a number of dogs, who are remarkably fierce, (o that no one dares to fêt his foot on the iQand at night. To the eaflward of Onrujl^ and at twice the diftance of Cooper's Ifle, is the ifland Purmerend^ which is half as large again as Onrtifl. It is planted with fhady trees ; and in the center is a building, which ferves for a hofpital, or lazaretto, for perfons afflided with the leprofy, or other incurable difeafes, who are fent thither from Batavia. It is fupported by Öie alms of both Europeans and Javanefe, but the latter contribute the largeft fhare. The ifland of £^^^ lies about three leagues V.N.E. from Batavia. It is about half an hour's walk in circumference. It is very woody, and has abundance of large and an- cient trees. Among them is one, the trunk of which is fo large, that twenty men, with their arms extended, are not enough to en- compafs it; its outward branches ihoot 4 down- [ 3«4 3 downwards, and taking root, as fbon a^ the/ reach the earth, grow up again into trees ; 1 faw fome of thbm that were already two feet thick ; it is efteemed holy by the Ja- vanefe, and is much venerated by them *. The Company have fome warehoufes on this ifland, for fait ; but the chief ule they make t)f it, is as a place of exile for criminals, who are employed in making of cordage ; and over whom a fhip's captain is placed as commandant» * This is thebanlan-tree> /cat mdica^ or Indian fig*tree. T. CHAP- [ 385 ] BOOK lil. OBSERVATIONS RESPECTING BENGAL. CHAPTER L Situation and Extent o/" Bengal. — Seafcns. — fVea^ tber. — Ohjervations refpeHing the Degrees of Heat. — Monjcons. — Nature of the Country. — ProduSlions. — Soil — Trees. — Ufes of the Cocoanut- tree. — Fruit-trees. — Vegetables. — Tanks. — The River Ganges. — Channels communicating with it. — Sandbanks at the Entrance of Ho ugly River. — Currents. — Rife and Fall of the River. — The Water of it muddy. — How clarified far drinks ing. — Reputed S anility of the Ganges. — P/7- grimages to it from all Parts of India. JL HE kingdom of Bengal^ which is the moft caftern province of the empire of In* doftan, is bounded, on the fouthweft, by the kingdom of Orixa^ on the weft, by the pro- vince of Malva^ on the north, by Mongbeir^ and Bahary'Ovi the eaft and foutheaft, by the kingdom of Aracan^ and on the fouth, by VOL. I. c c the [ 386 ] the deep gulph, which is called the Bay of Bengal. It is computed to be full ninety leagues in length, from the fêa, to RajamabeU and nearly as much in breadth. It lies between the twenty-firft and twen- ty-fcventh degrees of north latitude^ and thus between the fame parallels as the Canary iflands. Its medium longitude is 105® eaft from Teneriffcj the fun being on the meri- dian almoft five hours and 4 half iboner than at Amjlerdam. The year is divided into two fêafbns» which are called the warm and the cold feafons. The cold feafon commences in the month of November, and lafts till the beginning of February. Raw northerly winds are then very prevalent, which bring with them a degree of cold» fo that fbmetimes, in the morning, before funrife, thick clothes are very comfortable. It is then like wife fre- quently very foggy, but the mift is diffipatcd about eight or nine o'clock, when the fun begins to be powerful. For the remaiirdcr of the day, the (ky is perfeöly fine and dear, fo that no clouds whatever appear in the air, for many days together. The [ 38? ]• The beginning of this feafbn, is the time for coUedling the heft fruits of the field, and the laod appears reanimated, in proportioi^ as the burning heat diminiihes. In the^eginning or middle of February, v^hen the fun begins to approach the line, the heat likewife augments from day to day. The winds, which, for fevcral preceding months, had blown from the north, begin to fliift, become variable, and run round to the fbuth and fouthweft, whence they continue to blow till September or Oöober. The (ky begins to become cloudy, and the wea- ther is, 'at funfet, fhowery and ftormy, fre- quently burfting out in violent fqualls, ac- companied by heavy (bowers of rain, thun- der, and lightning. I have feen hailAones, and pieces of fleet, which fell in Bengal^ in the month of February, and were as large as a pigeon's egg- , The rainy feafon commences in May> and continues to the latter end of A\\guft, The heat is, at that time, infupportable. As ibon as the fun has again paffed the line, the heat begins to decreafe, till, in the month of Oftober, it is tolerably moderate. c c 2 I ob- [ 388 ] I obferved the degrees of heat, nearly every day, by a thermometer of Fahrenheit, from the beginnnig of Oftober, till the begin- ning of April. The thermometer was hung in the open air, againft a wall, facing the north, and there were no buildings oppofite, by which the rays of the fiin could be re- flefted. The greateft degree of heat, was generally about two o'clock, or half paft, in the afternoon, and the leaft, about an hour before funrife, in the morning. In Oftober, the greateft heat, in the af- ternoon, was 94°, with a northerly wind, and clear Iky ; the leaft heat, in the fame month, in the afternoon, was 8*5°, wind and wea- ther as before ; the loweft degree, before funrife, with a northerly wind, was 70®. In November, the higheft, in the after- noon, 89^, wind northeaft, a clear Iky ; the loweft, in the afternoon^ 81^, wind north, clear weather; and the loweft, before fun- rife, 60^, wind north, foggy weather. In December, the higheft, in the after- noon, 88|^, wind eaft, a clear fky ; the loweft, in the afternoon, 76^, wind north, clear Iky ; and the loweft, before funrife, 52®, wind north, clear weather. la [ 389 3 In January, the highcft, in the afternoon, 85^, wind fouthweft, clear Iky ; the loweft, in the afternoon, 74^, wind north, clear iky; and the loweft, before . funrife, ó^^j wind northeaft, clear weather. In February, the higheft in the after- noon, 92**, wind fouth, clear Iky ; the loweft, in the afternoon, 76*^, wind weft, cloudy; and the loweft, before funrife, 68®, wind fouth, clear weather. In March, the higheft, in the afternoon, 104®, wind fouth, clear iky ; the loweft, in the afternoon, 93®, calm, and cloudy ; and the loWeft, before funrife, 72®, wind fouth, clear weather. On the 3d of April, when we failed down the Ganges J thjc thermometer ftood, at three o'clock in the afternoon, at loi®. I then caufed it to be let down into the river, five or fix feet under the furface of the water, and drawing it fuddenly up again, I found that the mercury had fallen to 86®. Upon hanging it up in its place, it fell, two minutes afterwards, to 83®, but it rofe again, by degrees, in the fpace of feven minutes, to 98®. Some obfervations were commu- nicated to me, which were made in the c c 3 . month f 390 1 month of May, 1769, by which it appears, that the mercury then rofe as high as 1 10^ ; and a gentleman of my acquaintance, who was at Patnaj in that month, informed me, that there it had even rifen to the top of the tube. The winds generally blow here, through- out the year, cither direft north, or direö fouth ; part of the year from the one point, and the remaining part from the oppofite point. The fame wind which prevails at land, blows likewife at fea, along the coaft of Coromandel^ and the Bay of Bengal. When the monfoons break up, that is, when the wind varies from the north to the fouth, or from the fouth to the north, the change is often accompanied by violent fijualls, and whiriwinds. When one of thefe rages remarkably fierce, it receives the denomina- tion of the elephant \ and it is fcarcely poffi- ble for a fhip, when overtaken by one of thefe tornadoes, to brave its fury. In the year 1754, in the month of O6I0- ber, five of our Company's (hips, which were at anchor in Fultah roads, were forced on üiore, and bulged, by this dreadful hur- ricane; a fixth, which was equally driven on [ 39ï J on ihorci was got off again with difficultv. The change of the monfoons, however, fcnnetimes takes place, without any of thefc ilorms arifing from it. Bengal is a low and flat country, and very ^fertile, in which it excels every other coun- try of Afia. It provides many of them with rice, and other provifions * j and furnifhes various important articles of commerce, cot- tons, iilk, faltpetre, opium, &c. which are exported both to other parts of the eaft, and to Europe. Befides.rice, which is the bread of the natives, both here, and throughout the reft of India, Bengal produces alfo very good wheat, which ufed formerly even to be fent to Batavia ; but this is now prohibited, in order to favour, as much as poflible, the corn-trade of the Cape of Good Hope. The foil is rich and loamy, and is eafily cultivated. No manure is ever ujed, al- though the ground be fown e>vtvy year ; for * Bengal furniflies proviHons for moft of the neighbouring countries; it provides the inhabitants of the mountains of Cqfiimere^ and of the elevated plains of Thibet^ with both rice and wheat» in return for their ibavrls, gold» and muHc. The emperor AtrKENGzsBB emphatically ftyUd it» the Paradi/h of Jfations, T* c c 4 the [ 392 ] the heavy rains and inundations fatten the land. Bad harvefts occur very feldonn. Befides the extenfive forefts, and fnialler groves, which are met with at intervals, the country abounds in fingle trees, fcattered over the face of it. None of the forts which flourifli in Holland, are feen here. There is one kind, which deferves par- ticular notice. It is the fame, which I have already mentioned, as growing on the iOand Edam^ before Batavia (the banian, or Indian fig-tree), the branches of which tend down- wards, and taking root, (hoot up again into trees. The Bengalefe are, equally wuth the Javanefe, imprefled with the idea of the fanélity of thefe trees. Various kinds of fruit-trees fl'ourifh here, among which the cocoanut-palm /deferves the firft place ; not fo much, becaufe it is produced in great abundance, as on account of its uuiverfal utility ; for there is no tree in India, and probably none in the world, that contributes fo much to fupply the wants of man, as the cocoanut-trce. It is propagated from a ripe nut, and in a few years, ereds its ftraight and lofty ftem, above the other trees of the grove. When full [ 393 ] full grown, it is generally 'fourteen or fifteen inches thick, all the way up. It grows to the height of fifty feet, and higher, without fending forth any branches, than at the top, where it expands into a leafy crown, con- fiding of tender branches, or (hoots, which have nothing ligneous in them, and to which the thick leaves are attached, in pairs; thefe are about two feet long, and three inches broad, they gradually grow fmaller towards the extremities of the branches, which end in a pointed leaf. The nuts are produced upon the tender branches, clofe to the ftem, and grow in bunches of five or fix. When the fruit is green, it is filled with a pleafant, fweetifli liquor, which is very cool, and refrefliing, and is much drank in the Indies, both by the natives, and by Eu- ropeans. When it begins to be riper, the juice thickens, and adheres to the (hell in a kind of creamy pulp, which is very refre(h- ing as well as nutritive, and is called Itplap. When the nut is quite ripe, the infide be- comes a hard and white kernel, and, in this (late, it is often brought to Europe. When this white kernel is boiled and prefTed, [ 394 1 prefled, it affords an otl^ which is ufbd in« Head of butter by the Indians, wherever the cocoanut is produced^ throughout the eaft. It has much refemblance to oil of almonds ; but when it has ftood for a few weeks» it lofes its pleaiantnefs, and becomes rank ; it thcn> however, ferves for greafe^ or to burn, or for other neceffary ufes. The hard fhell is made into drinking- vcffels, and ufed for a variety of domeftic purpofes. The fibrous integument that furrounds the fhell, is ufed, inftead of hemp, for the manufafture of cordage, which is called coiTy and is brought, in confidcrable quan- tities, from Ceylon f and the coaft of Malabar^ to Batavia. Cables are even made of it, of twenty, and more,, inches thick, which are found to be as good, and, in fome cafes» better, than European ones of hemp. By their lightncfs, they float upon the water, and by their elafticity, they are capable of great extenfion and contraftion *. The ♦ Captain Tho, Forrest gives his teflimony to the tx* cellencc of the coir for cables ; «* being elaftic, it gives fo ** much play to a fiiip that rides hard at anchor, that^ with a M cable I 395 ] The leaves are u(êd by the natives for roofing their houfes, or huts, in the room of fti-aw, or tiles. They are likewife ufed to writer or rather to engrave, upon, with an iron pin. The wood of the ftem, is ufed for fire- wood, and cannot be employed in any other way, on account of its brittlenefs. The other fruit-trees, are mangos, guavas^ mulberry-trees, lime-trees, and a few orange-trees. The pifangy or banana, is alfo produced here, but not in large quan- tities. Likewife the ^r/-trce, which af- fords, by incifion in the ftem, a clear and fweet juice, which is collefted in pots, and . forms an agreeable liquor, of an intoxicating quality ; in a few days, however, it fpoils^ and turns four ; it is then ufed as vinegar. Many kinds of vegetables, which are na-* tives of other climates, are cultivated in gardens here, peas, beans, ialad, purflane, '* cable of one hundred and twenty fathoms» the ihips retire ** or give way, fometimes half their length, when oppofedtoa ** heavy fea,and inflantly üioot a head again ; the coir-cable, <* aft^r being finedrawn, recovering its iize and fpring. '^ Hempen cables are flrong and flubborn, and fhipe often '* founder that ride by them, becaufe nothing ftretches or •* gives way ; the coir yields and recovers." 71 fpinage. C 39<5 ] Ipinage, all forts of cabbages, radiflies, afpa- ragus, and others ; but they arc only to be had, during the colder feafon, and require great attention and care in the rearing of them ; they muft be watered twice a day, or they would dry up, and come to nothing. In the warm feafon, nothing of the kind is feen, except fome fphiage and cucumbers. Throughout the land, where it is inha- bited, numerous refervoirs, of an oblong fquare (hape, but of various fizes, are dug in the earth ; they are frequently more than an acre in extent ; they are called tanks. They are filled with water in the rainy fea- fon, and afford the inhabitants, during the following dry months, a provifion of water, of a better quality and appearance, than that of the Ganges^ which is always thick ;ind muddy. There is a fort of fifti, which is found in thefe tanks, which, in tafle, has much analogy with our carp. The river Ganges runs through the mid- dle of Bengal. It derives its fource, it is faid, from the mountains of Thibet ; but a French ecclefiaflic of Chandernagore^ who bad been a mifTionary for feveral years in Thibet, [ 397 ] Thibet J afTured me, that the fourccs of the Ganges^ are not to be found in that country, as he had taken the greateft pains to dif- cover them ; the inhabitants too, informed him, that they were fituated much farther to the north *• The river runs in a Ibüth- eaft * Amongft other etymologies, the name of the river Ganges^ has been derived from Gangj which in Perfian, as Wonka in the Hindoo dialect, fignifies "ivinding^ arched^ hent ; the remarkable finuofities of the river^ give great probability to this derivation. Refpeéling the true fource of the Ganges^ Diuch uncertainty ilill prevails. In vain, one of the mod powej^l fovereigns of Indofian^ the emperor Acbar, at the ^oit of the fixteenth century» fent a number of men, zxt army of difcoverers, provided with every neceffary, and tl>e moft potent recommendations, to explore the courfc of the mighty river, which adorned and fertilized the vafl extent'of his dominions ; they were not able to penetrate beyond the famous mouib of the cow ; this is an immenfe aperture, in a ridge of the mountains of Thiiet^ to which the natives of India have given this appellation, from the fancied» or real, rclem- blance of the rocks, which form the ftupendous chafm, to the mouth of an animal, cfteemed facred, throughout Indofian^ from the remotefl antiquity : fiom this opening, the Ganges^ precipitating itfelf into a large and deep bafon, at the foot of the mountains, forms a cataraé^, which is called Gangotri ; the impraflicability of fcaling thefe precipitous rocks, and advance ing beyond this formidable pafs, has prevented the tracing whence this rufhing mafs of water takes its primary rife; CMttaranam^ is the Sanfcreet verb, /• make a kaf^ Gangotri^ therefore, means the leaf^ or /ail of ibc Ganges \ this cataraét is C 39» 1 eaft direéliont through the empire of In- doftan. It feparates into two great branches, a few leagues above Caffimbaxar ; the eaft- ern arm, is again divided into feveral fmaller branches» the principal of which runs pail the city of Dacca^ and falh into the fca, at Cbittigong. The other, or weft- crn arm, which is generally called the river of Hoügfyy runs paft Bandely Haugfy, Chin- Jurab^ Chandernagore^ Calcutta^ &c. and falls into the Bay of Bengaly at Ingelke. 19 fituated in 33^ 5', north lat. and about 7$^ eaft loBg. ffoin Greenwich, The Ganges has been fuppofed to extend much ftrther north, beyond Gangotri; but here» all is uncMtaioty, anddarknefs. In Major Ren m el's map, followed, for this part of it, from one of TbUety made by the Chinefe üohmj, Tent by the emperor Cakgi^i, to difcover the fource of the Gai^, and corrected and publi(hed by the celebrated DantillBj the «^ liver is made to take its rife in the CmtaigUm mountaiiM, and paiiing through two lakes, to run in a wellerly dired^ion to- wards Qang9iri\ but M. Anquetil du Perron, in his Jtecherches Hiftmques isf Geograpbiques fur tlnde^ undertakes to prove, that the river, here taken to be the Géuigu^ from the reports of the Chinefe lamas^ is, in reality» the Gagra^ or Dei»aiy which falls into the Ganges^ ^X^Fatepire % and that the true fource of the Ganges, is flill wholly unknown to the Eu* ropeans: indeed Major Rewnel acknowledges, that hecon- fiders this part of the map of the Chinefe lamas^ as extremely vague, hut that he was obliged to make ufe of it, for want of better materials, and that a vaft field iliU remains for the per» fe^ioning of Afiatic geography. J^ The [ 399 3 The country is every where interfeAcd^ with large and broad channels^ which all run into the Ganges. All merchandize is conveyed, by means of thefe paflages, with great facility» from one place to the other^ throughout the land, and the chief branches of the river communicate hereby with each othen It is entirely unknown, whether thefê channels have been dug by the bands of men, or made by the operations^of nature. They are agreeably bordered, oh cither fide, with many towns and villages, and with plcafant fields, of arable and pafture* land ; which renders the face of the coua** try very beautiful. Among thefe channels, there are fomc, which are wide and deep enough, to be navi- gable for large fhips. The Haze^ or Hare Channel, is one of the moft confiderable ; it runs ftraight through the country, into the arm of the river that runs by Dacca. It was, as I have already related, examined by the Dutch pilots, in the year 1 768. They found fuiHcient depth and room along its whole extent, for large (hips, but for other reafons, it was not judged advilable, that ihips [ 4ÖO ] ffiips (hould be carried out to fea throvfgh this paflage*. There are large and dangerous banks, iR?hich lie before the mouth of the river, of which I have made mention, in the journal of my voyage -j*. The river itfelf is, every where * S«e pages 105 and 106, of this volume. T. \ Thefe fands arc diftinguiflied by the Englifliy by the ap- pellation of the wedern and eailern Braces, Barabulla-CuiJ, Long*fand, and Gafper-faud, or the eaftern fea-reef. The braces are two hard flats, lying to the fouthward of the Beer- cool fliore; they are detached from the land by a tolerable channel, of three fathoms water or more ; and they feparate BaJafire road» from the entrance of Hottgij river. The wed- crn Brace is about five miles broad at the north end ; it lies north by ea(l, and fouth by weft, being feven leagues long ; but from the middle to the fouth end, it is little more than two miles broad ; the depth, at low water, upon the Brace, is at the north end, two fathoms ; at the eroding track, which is a fpace athwart the Braces, about two miles broad» in the diredion of caft by north, three fathoms ; and thence to the fouthward it gradually increafes to eight fathoms; after which there is no more hard ground. The eaflern Brace, is four miles broad, from the north end down to the eroding track; and thence to the fouih end, it tapers away to a point, and bends round in a circle to the s.k. The whole length of the ^ B_race is twelve leagues, and the hard ground at its Ibuthero extremity is called the weflern fca-reef ; on the north end of the Brace, there is fomething Ids than one fathom, at low water; and the depth increafes gradually to the fouthward; there being two fathoms on the crofBng tack, and from three, to I 401 ] where» filled with fandbanks» as well in the middle of the channel, as on the fides, to thfee and a half, at its fouthern point. Barabulla is a iand, which be^ns about three leagues fouth by weft from the pagoda of Ingelke^ and extends s.8.w. about ten miles; the north end is called the head, and the fouth end the tmil^ of the Barabulla ; the firft is very ihoal, having only half a fathom, or ïo^ at low water ; it is very dangerous» there being five fathoms in the channel clofe by it ; the tail of this fand has not much lefs water upon it than there is in the channel, only it is broken ground, and over&lls of about half a fathom, every caft of the lead. Long-fand begins at Cmjoru point, and extends to the fouthward, to latitude ai^ 18' north ; it is, in all, thirty*five miles long ; its width is various, but gene- rally it is narrow, having many patches, which are dry at low water ; the direftions in which it lies, are fouth by weft, and north by eaft; the paflages called Cockcrlces, are fwatches through the Long-fand ; of thefe there are three, one juft by Cajmree point, another between four and five miles more foutherly, and the third is directly eaft from the buoy of Inielke. Gafper-fand is the greateft of all thofe in the Hougly entrance ; it begins a little to the fouthweft ward of Mud-point, in latitude ai* j/ north, and goes, fouth by weft, twenty miles, where it bends round near Sagor ifland, foutheaft ward, and extends as for as latitude 21** ; the north end of this fand is called the Mizen; it is very broad, and fills up the whole entrance, leaving only a channel on each fide, of which, one is the road of Cajo.ee ; the middle part is called Gafpcr, which, to the northward of Sagor^ is narrow, and to the fouthward broad ; the fouth end is called the eaftern £ea-reef ; but the whole is one continued fand, with various depths of water upon it ; and many patches, which are dry at low water ; it is detached from the eaftern fliore and Sagor ifland, by a very good channel. 7*. VOL. I. D D whiph [ 40Z ] which renders the navigation very éah^ gerous. It is at its greateft elevation» and its ftröngeft afflux» in the months of July» Auguft, and September, It then overflows its banks» and inundates the adjacent coun- try. Both flood and ebb, are then fb violent, that they threaten to carry every thing be- fore them. The flood begins» even before the ebb has fubfided» and this does not take place flowly and gradually» but with a great force and noife, fo that its approach may be heard at the diftance of a league. The water rifes fometimes, at once» to the elevation of fix or eight feet» or higher. Nothing can refift its fury. Ships are torn from their anchors, and carried with im- petuofity along with the current» unlefs they take care to change their pofition betimes, fo as to be fheltered from the effcds of the iaan (as it is here called), into places where it does not reach» or where its force .is broken. It runs up by Pultabj but along the oppofite fliore, and not on that fide where the fliips, in general» are moored. Its [ 4^3 1 Its greateft ftrcngth is between Serampore and Hougly. The bed of the river is a foft mud ; but the ihoals in it are a hard quickfand. The river is at the lowcft, in the months of March and April. At Cbinfuraby where our Company have their faótory, there is but a narrow creek left» at that time, at low water, running along the oppofite (hore. The breadth of the river, at the mouth, by Ingelleej is about four German leagues. It narrows by degrees, fo that at and above Cbinfurab it is not much more than half a league over. By the violent afflux, the water is always thick and muddy, and is not very fit for drinking until it has flood ftill for fome time, to fettle. In order to clarify it with «expedition, a fort of fmall beans, which grow here, are made ufe of. One of thefe beans<» is rubbed to pieces upon a ftone, with a little water ; it is then put into a cafk of the river- water, and, in the fpace offixhours, it makes It perfeólly clear, and fit for keep- ing a long time at fea. From Ingellee to Cbinfurab^ where the river is navigable for large ihips^ the depth D D 2 of t m 1 öf water is from three and a half to elevea and twelve fathoms. The waters of the Ganges arc efteemed holy, and the river iacred, by all the In« dians, who inhabit Bengal^ Orixay GoUonda^ Coromandel^ and the neighbouring countries. The Gentoos worfliip the Ganges as a divi- nity» and an annual feflival is held in its honour. They conceive that by walhing in its holy waters» they are purified from all their fins ; and thofe who live near the river, perform an ablution in it, at leaft, once every day. Thofe who have no opportuni- ty of doing this, and who live too far inland, come, once a year,- from all parts of the country, as far as thirty days' journey, and farther, to cleanfe both their bodies and their fouls in the facred wave. The number of people, whom I faw ar- rive in the latter end of March, at Hougly and Terbonee^ for the above purpofe, was in- credible. The concourfe continued for three days together. All of them, whether men, women, or children, when they had waflied themfelves, and fet off on their return home, carried with them fome of the river- water, in veflels, which they had brought for that purpofe. [ 405 J purpofe, for the ufe of fuch of their relatives and friends, as had been left behind^ and who, by age or infirmity, were incapacitated for performing the journey *. ♦ A confidcrablc trade is carried on by the pilgrims who re- turn from the Gmtges, and the price of the holy water bean a proportion to the difiance from the river of the place where ic is ibid. It is chiefly carried in large fiaiks or bottles, holding nearly five quarts each, fufpended at either end of a bamboo, which rcfts upon the fhouldcrs. T. D D 3 CHAP- [ 406 1 CHAPTER II. habitants ^Bengal. — Their Appearance. — 7»- per and Cbara^er. — Women. — Proftiiutim. — Cafies. — Artifans. — Dre/s of the Men.-^^f the Women.-^Food. — Religion.^^Feftivals. — FeJHval of the Ganges. — Ceremonies obferved at it. — Its Purport, — Fejiival of Hooks, fo called hy Eu- ropeans. — Singular Torments they undergo. — Their Superftition. — Pagodas. — Idols. — Offerings. Brahmins. — Faquirs. — Strange Penances. —Con- jurers and Serpent-Charmers» — Curious Feats per^ . formed hy the latter. — Dancing Qirl^.^-rTheir Drefs. — Dances. — Idcentioufnejs. Bengal is peopled by various nations ^ but the principal are the Moguls, or Moors^ as they are improperly called, defcendants of the Zagathais, who, a little more than two centuries ago, brought this kingdom, together with the whole of the empire of Indojian^ under their fubjeélion *. • It was in the year f525, that Babe^l, one of the defcend- ants of the renowned TimyxBEq, or Tamerlane, got pof- feffion of Dehlf^ feated himfelf on the throne of Indoftan, and properly eftabliflied the Mogul empire in India. T. Next [ 407 ] Next follow the Gentoos*, or Bengalefe; theiirft appellation they have in common with the inhabitants of Coromandel^ GoIconJa, and the greatcft part of Indoftan ; they are a hundred times more numerous than the Moors. The Bengalefe do not differ much from the Europeans in ftature ; they are more in- clined to (parenefs than to corpulency ; their colour is dark-brown ; their hair is black, and uncurled % they are well made, and I faw none that were misfhapen, or lanie, ex« cept fbme faquirs^ who had fuffcred their bodies to grow crooked, from religious mo* tives* Individuals are met with, who are of a lighter brown caft, and whofe com- plexion approaches to yellow ; but thefe in- ftances are not frequent. They are, in general, lazy, luftful, and pufiilanimous. Their higheft felicity feems to be placed in idlenefs and (leep ; and were they not forced, by the wants of their na- * Gentio is a Portuguefe word, meaning GentiUs^ in the fcrip» tural phrafe ; by which general appellation they at firft called all the natives of India, whether Mahomedans or Hindoos. From them the term G^/i/00 has been adopted, by wblch,accord«> }ng to the prefent ulage, the Hindoos, or followers of Bndma^ are diftingnifhed from th^ ]\{ahomedahs, or Muffulmen. T, p D 4 ture, [ 4^8 ) ture» to apply themfelves to fome occupation, they would never work ; for nothing lefs than hunger or thirft fufficcs to roufe them from their beloved ftate of indolence. They are, neverthelefs, very intelligcnf, and are not deficient in underftanding, efpecially not in imitative genius. Another trait of their charafter, is their a^difSlion to ftealing. I have been told, that their morals were much better, and their behaviour more manly, before the Moguls . overran their country, and introduced the Mahoraedan religion, and,, together with it, innumerable vices, which were before both unpraöifed and unknown. Although n^oft of them are very poor, yet there are Ibme of the banyans, or nierchants, who are extremely wealthy, and who yet fpare no pains whenever they can earn even half a rupee. Thefe men are very ihrewd in matters of trade, and are able to make very large and intricate calculations, which woul^ take us up much time, in a moment, from their heads. They write from left 'to right, with a fplit reed, and have a feparate alphabet, compofed of charaöers which are diftind t 409 3 diftiné): from thofe of the Moors and Per« iians. All of them» carry their puiiUanimity to a very great excefs; one European. is enough to put fifty of them to flight ; the leaft menace awakens the fearfulnefs of their dil^ pofition, and is fiifScient to make them fly with fpeed from the threaffener. This bent, however, muft be chiefly afcribed to the in- fluence of their religion, which inftils into them the greatefl abhorrence of bloodfhed» from their childhood. The women, although of a brown com- plexion, have engaging countenances, and are well proportioned. They intrigue with ipirit, and are uncommonly wanton* They ufe every artifice to entrap the hearts of their male acquaintance, and efpecially ftrangers. Proftitution is not thought a dis- grace: there are every where licenfed places, where a great number of loofc women are kept ; it is a livelihood that is allowed by law, upon payment to the fauf^ dar f or fheriff, of the place, of a certain duty impofed upon the peribns of the females who adopt this mode of life j they are generally t 4>» ï generally afiefled at half a rupee, or fifteen ftivers, per month. The Gentoos are divided into variotxs cla&s, called caftes, of which, as 1 have been informed, there are more than feventy. Of theie, the cafte of the Brahmins is the firft and nobleft, and that of the Pareas^ who are employed in the removal of ordure and carrion, is the loweft and moft deipifëd. In order that thefe cades, may each re*» main pure, and unmingled with the others, it is enaéted, that no Bengalefe, ihall marry a woman, who is of a lower cafle than His own, or if he do fq, he ihall then dclccnd into the cafte of his wife. The fame regu- lation likewife takes place, if any one, have eaten a meal with another of an inferior cafte, in which cafe, he is immediately degraded to the rank of the perfon with whom he has been thus familiar. It is not only in thcfe cafes, but in many others, that a man loles the privileges of his cafte ; for which reafbn, tbey are very careful not to do any thing that may give occaiion hereto, and people of the higher orders, will rather fufFer every kind of want, than fubmit to any thing derogatory to their dignity. Every I 4" I Every cafte has its peculiar means of live«^ Irhoody or manual trade, by which they are maintained^ and which is inherited from fsither to fon. They have accordingly op- portxmities of making great progreis in their refpc&ivt arts» although thoy can never ex* ped to rife above the ftatien» in which they are born* The fon of a Brahmin^ becomes a priefl» or a man of letters» juft as his father. A Cool^y^ or labourer, cultivates ^hc foil, as his anceftors did before him. The fon of a Berrdj or palenkeen-bearer, continues to carry palankeens, all the days of his life» Artificer? confine themftlves to one fort of work, fo that a goldfmith will not work in filver, nor a filverfmith in gold. In the 0urungs, or looms, a weaver will only weave one fingle fort of ftufF during his whole life, unlefshe be compelled to take another in hand.. The artificers are very ingenious, and I have feen feveral examples, efpecially of gold and filverfmiths, which are foarcely credible, of the dexterity with which they make every thing that can be formed of thofe metals } if they have but a proper model, they will imitate it with the great- pft exadneis füsid ingenuity. They perform ^ their ( 4iif ] their work with fo much expedition and neatnefs, and with fo little apparatus» and fo fevf implements^ than an European ar- tift ^would be aftonifhed at their fliccefs. They are withal very poor. The workmen in gold or filver, are frequently only little l)oys, who fit every day on the iazar^ or jnarketji \yaiting till they a^e called to exer- cife their trade ; when one of thcmls called, he comes to the houfe, where he is wanted, with his implements, which he carries in a little baiket, and which only confift óf a very fmall anvil, a hampaer, a paiy of pincers, a few files, iiud a p^ir of bellows. A chaffing- difh, or pan qf enitbers, is then given to him, with a mpdel of what is to be made,; aod the gold or filver is weighed off to him by rupees ; 9,nd an agreement 13 made how paany annas^ or fixteenth parts of a rupee, ac- cording to the work that is to be done, and the trouble required to finifh it, agreeable to the pattern, ihall be paid to him ; or ibmetimes an agreement is made hqw much he fhall eari) per day, which feldom exceeds fix or feven ftivers (pence). He the» fets about his work in the open air, and per- forms it with difpatch and. ingenuity. . He employs f 413 1 employs both hands and feet^ and is able to hold, and turn things about, between his toei and the fole of his foot, as fail as we can with our hands and fingers. When his work is done, and he is rewarded for it, he takes his little bafket up again, and feats himfelf anew on the market, waiting pa- tiently for another opportunity of exercifing his profeffion. It is the fame cafe with other tradefmen, who are equally fent for home, when any thing is to be done. If fhoes are wanted, a fhoe-maker is called from the bazar ^ who, with the leather, and other requifites, makes four pair of Ihoes in a day, for the value of half a crown. A taylor here, makes as good and hand- Ibme clothes, in the European fafhion, both for men and women, as any where in Eu- rope. When a piece of the fined muflin is torn, they can mend it again fo artificially j^ that no eye can difcover where the defeét was. Muflins are fometimes wove lb fine, that a piece of twenty yards in length, and longer, can be incloled in a common pocket tobacco- t 414 ] tobacco-box *. The whole is done with a very trifling apparatus, and Europeans are often furprifcd to behold the perfeftioa of manufaflure, which is exemplified here in almoft every handicraft, effeöed with (b few, and fuch imperfedl tools. The connmon people go almoft naked. They wear nothing but a piece of linen, wrapped round the waift, and paffed be* tween the legs. Some of them wear a piece of linen, wound about the head ; but others go bareheaded. Thofe of a higher rank, have a drefs of white cotton, which doubles over before, as high as the flioulders, and is faftened with firings round the middle ; thefe may not be tied on the right fide, to diflinguifh them from the Moguls, or Ma* * A common fized Dutch tobacco*box, fuch as they wear in the pocket, is about eight inches long, half as broad» and ^bout an inch deep. It is incredible to what a degree of fine* nefs, cotton is fometimes fpun by the Indians. ^^ I had an *' opportunity," fays Dr. Thunberg, " of feeing cotton* ** Huffs fo exceedingly fine, that half a dozen fliirts could be ** fqueezed together in one hand. Thefe are« however, not ** readily made ufe of, but arc kept, as rarities, by peo{^e of •* di(lin(Flioa, to fhew to what a degree of perfeélion, the art '* of fpinning can be brought." T* homedans ; [ 415 ] liomedans ; this drefs hangs down to their ^ feet i they wear no ftockings» but have a kind of fhoes, which are put on flipflio 1, and are turned up before, juft like the Turkilh èaioocées Mod of them (have their heads, and era- dicate the hair from all other parts of the body. Rich people wear turbands, but made in a different manner from thofe of the Moors, A great many of them wear fmall earrings. The drefs of the women confifts in a piece of cotton-cloth, which is thrown over the (houfders, and under which they wear a kind of coat and drawers. They fupport their breads, and prefs them upwards by a piece of linen, which pafles under the arms, and is made faft on the back. Thofe that can afford it, adorn their hair with gold bodkins, and their arms, legs, and toes, with gold or filver rings and bands, as likewife their ears, and the cartilage of the nofe. The women of the lower claffes, wear iimilar ornaments, which are made of a fort of cowries, brought from the Maldive iflands, and called chanclos^ which the Bengalefe have the art of fawing through, fb that every cutting f 4'« ] cutting makes a ring. They go bareheaded, ^nd their hair is turned up^ and fisiftened at the back of the head. ^ nice is the chief article of food of the Hindoos, and ferves them inftead of bread* Vegetables and milk conftitute the remain- der of their fcanty bill of fare. They eat no fifh, flefli of animals, or any thing that has received life. They frequently let milk ftand till it is thick and four, before they ufe it ; it is then called tayer. Their beverage is gen?rdlly pure water ; they are enemies of every kind of inebrislting liquor, and never indulge in the beaftly pleafures of intoxication, as too many other nations do^ except fome of the very loweft caftes, who fometimes exceed the bounds of temperance, in drinking a kind of Ipirits, which they diftil from fpoiled rice. With regard to their religion, I could not obtain much particular knowledge, farther than what relates to outward ceremonies and rites. Several other writers have, how- ever, enlarged on it. I have often con- Verfcd on the fubjeft, with their brahmins^ by means of an interpreter, but always found them either very ignorant of, or very ob- ftinate [ 417 ] ftinate in not revealing the principles and tenets of their belief. Whatever they faid was fb wildly abfurd» and what they alleged at one time, was fb incoufiftent with what they faid at another, that I thought very little of it worthy of prefcrvation. I could colle(ït, that they believed in a Supreme Be- ing, to whom feveral other deities were fub- ordinate, of which the Ganges v/^s one of the principal. This fupreme God was the au« thor of all good ; but there was another fpi« rit who violently oppofed the firft, and oc« cafioned all the evils and diftrefles which fall upon mankind. They vent the moft horrid execrations againft this evil fpirit, elpecially when it thunders or lightens, which they be- lieve proceeds from him. They pourtray him itt the form of a dragon, or ferpent, with four claws, trampled under foot by the beneficent deity, who is painted in a variety of ihapes. They believe in a future ftate, in which every one fliall be rewarded, according to his good or evil deeds in this world j but this is {o blended and confounded with their belief in the traufmigration of fouls, that I ¥ojL. I, E E have t 418 ] have not been able to form a clear idea of their tenets in this refpeél^. They (ajr that the world will have an end, and that the good Being, after having deftroyed every thing but the Ganges^ will remain, fitting upon a pifang-leaf, with two betel^plants by him, floating upon the river, and wrapped tip in meditation and enjoyment, for ever* lafting. Bcfides others, they have three grand fcfti- vals.; namely, the feflival in honour of the Ganges \ the feftival of hooksy as it is called by the Europeans ; and that of the nx>ajhings^ or purifications» The feftival of the Ganges was held, in the month of 0£lober, while I was at Cbin/urab. The chief purport of it, fcemed to be the cafting of a certain image into the Ganges^ with much ceremony. Wealthy banyans, who can afford the ex- pence of fuch a feflival, will certainly not hegled giving one, at lea ft once in their lives, although it may coft them ten thou- fand rupees, or more. Of feveral of the feftivals of this kind, which were given at Cbinfurahy there was one, which furpafled all the c 419 y the otheiis» and which coft the banyan who. gave it, full eight thoufand rupees, or twelve thoufand gilders. Itlafled three fuccefilvedays» I went to the houfe of the banyan, where, the feftival was held, that I might have a perfect opportunity of obferving the detail of it. At the upper end of a large room, there was a kind of ftage erc6ted, about four feet from the ground. Above it, was a fuperb canopy, fupported, on each fide, by two pil- lars. The whole was covered with red cot- ton cloth, which was fpangled with flowers^ made of thin plates of filver ; and which, by the'numerous lamps, with which the cham- ber was illuminated, had a very brilliant ef- upon the ftage, was a fquare platform, upon which a femicircular niche was placed» containing feveral mifshapcn images of clay, all richly gilt and painted. The uppermoft and largeft reprefentation, was that of a woman, called Doulgaj with two larger, and two linaller, ^rnis ; in one hand (he held the head of a man ; in an- other, a goblet ; in the third, an oblong piece of wood ; and in the fourth, fome- E E 2 thing I 4» J thing that reffembled a book. Oa e«eh fiir of her, w«rc two fmallcr images, which the brahtnitis told mt were the reprefentatious oS her children* Lower down, wa» the image ü£ a monfter, having the body of a horfe, and the head of a dragon ; and near it was a hideous human figxrre, which k threatened to devour. > The member which cBftiaguiihed the images of males, was naked ; and ij^ loch a pofture, and of fiich a fize, ^ to be ex- tremely offenfive to every one, but to thefer Mind heathens. The outer border of the niche, was divid- ed into fmall fquare copartmeiits. Different achievements of their gods were delineated in each ; but all were painted in a deformed ftyle. The whole of the niche^ and every thing near it, was adorned with gold and filver, and its aj^carance was^ in faö, fpkn^ did and dazzling. Here and there^ were repre&ntations of a divinity, to whom they pay adoration, under the appellation of Itngam ^. This is the * The th^mn h the image of the maife orgui of ^eiieratioii, and, in the mytbologx of the Hindoos, is die xïvirttbX fymbol of rcnovatire nature. 7. mod t 4" ] moftlctndalousworihip of all the num«rous abomhiations, which the fuperftition of mw has multiplied upon the £ice of the earth. They proftrated themfelves, from time t« time,' before this idol, and made o^rings (9 it of flowers, perfume, pieces of gold and fil* ver, and even goldand filver coin, which was dUigently coUeded, at the termination of the feftival, by the brahmins, who had the care of this deity. The roof of the apartment, was hung foil of cocoanuts, arecanuts, and other fruits, ilrung in rows. The concourfc of people was very great, and every part was crowded, except in the middle of the room, where a ipace was left for the dancing girls, who danced for three nights, from the evening until daybreak, before Doul^a, While dancing they threw themfelves into the rooft indecent attitudes, and with gcftures the moft hbidinous, they kept their eyes con- ftantly fixed on the niche. They danced to the found of cymbals, triangles, tomtoms» tit little drums, and other mufical inltrumcnts ; andamidft the chanting of hymns, in honour of the gods, whofe feftival they celebrated.. K E 3 The I 4Ï5t ] The whole gave a conAifed noife, but by no means difagrceablc. In the laft night, a (blemn lacrifirc was made of a young buffalo^ in the following manner : A large oblong pit was dug, in the mid- dle of the hall, oppofite to the ftage ; at the upper end, two low ftakes were driven into the ground, not far from each other. The buffalo, which was plentifully adorned with flowers, was then put into the pit, and his neck laid between the two ftakes, his head being fo placed, that his eyes were turned towards the niche. If he continue to look fteadfaftly at the niche,' without turning his head or eyes away from it, it is confidered as a peculiarly favourable omen, and a fign that the facrifice is agreeable to the goddefs ; but if the contrary take place, and he turn his head, to either one fide or the other, it is conftrued into an evil prefage. A crois piece of wood is made faft, over 'the neck, to the flakes, fo that the animal cannot lift up its head. Upon this, they pull the buffalo by the tail, as hard as they can, in order to ftrctch the oeck, which is cut through, at [ 423 } ^ ^t one ftroke, by a brahmin. The head 1$ laid before the goddefs, and the people mani* feft great joy ; but if the brahmin be forced to make more flrokes than one^ it is looked upon as a fatal omen, and oc9afions much forrow and confternation. During the whole of the three nights, the apartment was filled with people; it was open to every one; and the guefts were plentifully fprinkled with rofewater^ from time to time ; thofe of moft coniideration were anointed^ upon their bead and hands^ with oil of rofes. The loth of Odober, which was the fifth day after the full moon, and the fourth af- ter the commencement of the feftival, was the time appointed by the brahmins, to com* mit the offerings to the Ganges ; and this fo- lemnity was obferved, not only at Cèinfu- r^b^ but along the whole courfe of the river, at one and the fame time, with various de« greesof pomp and magnificence, according to the wealth and power of the celebrators. In the afternoon, all the niches were taken out of the houfes, where they had been expofed to view. At the door, they ^ere placed upon handbarrows, the faces i: £ 4 of [ 424 1 of the images, being turned backwards^ and were carried by four men» upon tbeir ihoulders. Two men went on each fidci with fans, made of peacock^s feathers^ to drive away the flies and other infe&i from the images. Two went before, with cla- rions, and others followed with drums, and cymbals, making a confufed kind of mufic. The proceilion was accompanied by a great concourfe of people. When they came to the banks of the Gangesj the niches were put on board of vcflels, in which the at- tendants with fans, and the muficians like» wife embarked, continuing their rude har- mony ; whilft others again danced before the goddcfs, making gcfturcs of the moft un- equivocal and (hameful kind that can be con- ceived. In this manner, they failed up and down the river, which was covered by an innu- merable quantity of veffels of all fisses, all gaudily decorated with flags. The people were in high fpirits, and all emuloufly ftrove to evince their joy, by their geftures and ex- preflions. At funfet, all the niches were thrown out of t 4«S ] cf the boats into the river, which terminated the ceremonies of the feftivaL As far as I could coUedy from what the banyan faid, I underftood that this feftival ' was the repreientation of a marriage ; for the Ganges b fuppofed annually to efpouie the goddeis Dmlga, and the children who ftood on each fide, are intended to reprefent the progeny of this exalted union. The highly voluptuous attitudes and pofhires which were made befwe the goddefs, were intended to excite the defiret of the celeftial couple, and ftimulate them to the procrea- tion of more children, in order to conquer the evil fpirit. The feftival of io^ks * (which is the name given to it by Europeans) is cele-» brated in the beginning of April. I was not an eyewitneis of it,becaufe I had, at that time, left the Ganges ; hut the following ac« count was given to me^ fay people worthy of credit. At the top of a high ftake, ereded for this * Called by the Hindoot, the feffival of <^p^s. h i^ fuppofed to be kept in commemoradoQ of a martyr, who fiif* fered extraordinary tortures for the fake of his faith* T, purpofe, C 4*^ ] parpoCcj a crofs piece o£ wood of thirty feet in length, is laid, which turns round upon en iron pin. A Bengaleie, who is con- fecrated to this folemnity, by one of the chief Wahmins, then has a great iron hook ran in* to his body, under the ribs, over which a piece of cloth, or girdle, is ftiffly bound, to prevent the tearing through of the flefli. The book is faftened by a (hort cord, to one end of the crofs beam, and a longer cord is fixed to the other, by which it is turned round with rapidity, feveral times, by the people who are prefent, whilft the man who under* goes the penance, and who hangs by the book at the other end of the crofs beam, in the air, ftrcws ground -rice, or flowers^upon the pec^le below, which they catch and pre- ferve,i as.facred relics. After having beon whirled round for fome time, he is taken down^ the hook taken out of his body, and the wound is cured a^ foon as poflihle. Others, out of a fuperftitious zeal, run iron pegs through their tongues, fome that are as thick as a finger, which they keep in that fituation, and carry about with them wherever they go, as loug as the feftival lafts^ Some t 4«r 1 .. Some make two openings, one in each fide, through which they pafs ropes, which are ftretched tight at either end, and along which they run backwards and forwards. Several fufFer themfelves to be cni(hed to death, under the broad wheels of a lofty, ma* chine, which is made for the purpofe ; and being filled with people, is drawn about by a multitude of others. This, however, is more pradifed among the Gentoos on the coaft of Coromaniel^ than in Bengal. They infli6i a variety of other corporal pe- nances upon themfelves, during this fefHval, but the above are the principal. The feftivals are not celebrated every year on the (ame day, for they are Sometimes an» ^ticipated, and fbmetimes delayed, for feveral days, according to the regulations of lucky and unlucky days made by the brahmins, ïh this refpeéb tbey are exceflively fuperftitious» and they will never undertake any thing up- on a day, which. they efteem unlucky. It is the fame with regard to numbers* An odd number is reckoned lucky, and an even one, the contrary. Upon receiving or paying fums of money, they will rather lofc C 4«« ] lofe a rupee» than either take or give an eren number. Their temples, called pagodas^ are moftlj iquare ; they are ftone buildings, which are not very lofty, and are crowned with a cu- pola. Within, they are very dark ; for they ' have no windows, and only receive their fight through the entrance. The image ci the idol, ftands in the deepeft and darkeft recefs of the temple ; it is of a monftrous ihape, and of uncouth dimenfions, having many arms and hands, in each of which it holds femething. Amongft many others, I iaw one, which had an human figure, and was reprefented in a fitting pofture. The head was very, l&rge in proportion to the body. With the tongue hanging out of the mouth, half way down the bread ; the eyes were ftretched wide open ; it had four arms and hands ; one hand was empty, but the palm of it was turned upwards ; in another it held a little board ; in a third, a naked fword ; and in the fourth it gralped a human head by the hair. I faw fome idds, which had eight, and ethers, with fixteen arms ; theie had an hu- man C 4af ] man body» but the head of a dog, with drawn bows, and other inftruments of war, in their hamds* Some of them were bkck, others of a jrel- lowifh hue ; one was the folitary divinity of a, temple, and others had images reprefent^ ing their wives near them. In fbme pagodas, were no images, but only a iingle black, polaflied, Aone, lying up^ on a round altar, covered with flowers and fandalwood, which were ftrewed upon it> They fhew mo e veneration for theib ftones, than for the idols themfelves. Their worihip of thefe divinities, confifti in throwing themfelves upon the ground» and making their falam^ or falutation with their hands, ejaculating their prayers in filence, in that pofture. The oflferings which they are accuftomed to prefent to their gods, confift of flowers» rice, pieces of filk and cotton, and fometimes gold and filver. Every thing is laid before the idols, and is taken care of by the brab» snins, who profit the moft by it. They guard the pagodas, both by day, and by night. The brahmins, or prieik, called hrabmantt^ by t 43<> 1 i)y the Indians^ who are the èracbmanni of antiquity, are of the firft and nobieft cafte of the people, as we have before obübrved. They are known by a thin cord, with a .bead, which is paiTed round the neck, and hangs down upon the breaft ; they are never without this mark of diftinétion. They are held in the greateft reiped by all the other caftes ; and no one approaches a brahmin, but with marks of the higheft veneration, to which they make no other return, than (hewing the open palms of their hands» Thereare feveralcaftesof brahmins, which differ in rank and reputation ; fome of them ,are reputed fo holy, and are held in fiich high veneration by the people, that the water in which a brahmin, belonging to them, has waihed his feet, is efteemed ia- cred, and is given to the common Bengalefe to drink, who think it the greateft felicity to be allowed a (hare of fuch a difgufting beverage. The vedam^ or facred book, in which the principles and duties of their religion arc infcribed, is kept, it is faid, by the chief brahmins of the firft order. The copies of it. I 43« ] it^ are afTerted to be written in Perfian let^ ters, upon a certain fort of paper, imper- vious to the attacks *of worms, or other in- feas. The brahmins never negled wafhing themfelves in the Ganges^ at funrife. Be- fore they enter the water, they make a few Jaiams, or iaiutations, to the river ; upon this they take fbme water in the hollow of the hand, and offer it to the rifing fun, bowing their heads matiy times ; they then befprin- kle all the parts of their body with it, one by one, ending by the forehead and breaft. I faw feveral, who had a little brafs pot, or ihell, with which they continually icooped up water, out of the river, and let it run out again immediately, muttering prayers all the while ; but when they filled it for the laft time, they went out of the river, and poured the contents upon the bank ; after this; they made a mark, with a yellowifh kind of clay» upon the nofe and eyes, in the form of the letter y ; I faw other Bengalefe likewife mark themfelves in this manner, making, however, only a fingle ftripe upon the nol©, and upon the forehead. They then go into their pagodas, to pray, decorating their Idols with [ 43« J with flowers^ and ftrewiiig th«m with 6ii- ^wood. I was affiired, that brahmins are to be met with» in the'neighbourhood of Dacca^ who, hx from refcmbling iome of thde cafies in ftupidity and ignorance» on the contrary, en- tertain pure ideas of the godhead, and peae- trating through the veil of thefe external, puerile^ and ridiculous ceremonies, to the conception of an almighty Creator, join the pra6^ice of the moral virtues, to dieir belief in his omnifcientprovidence* But they will . (eldom enter into converiation with ftrangers on thefe fubjeéls. The land abounds with a fort of religious beggars, who are called fofuirs ; thefe are, in general, the very refufe of fociety, the worft of whatever deserves to be called bad. They do not work, but live by the alms, which are beftowed upon them, willingly and in plenty, by the iuperftition of the peo- ple. They go entirely naked, and are wholly devoid of (hame. On their (boulders, they carry a thick club, the end of which is wound round, with rags of cloth, of all co- tours* It is dangerous to meet them in ibli- tary places, or in the woods, for they make 4 ^^ i [ 453 ] ïió (cruple of knocking down, and murder- ing, whoever happens to have any thing of value about him. They wander about tho country, in troops of two or three hundred» and all f^and under one chief, who confe* crates them to this vocation, which they may not adopt without his confent. They ftrew their hair, which hangs half vïray down the back, with afhes, and fome* times wallow in aflies, rolling the whole body in them, and making a moft diigufting figure of themfelves. They are not allowed to marry, but they indemnify themfelves for this privation, in other ways, and by the perpetration of the mod abominable beaftlinefs. They generally take up their abode in fhady places, either in the open air, or in old and ruinous buildings, without ufingany thing to repofe upon, or to cover themfelves. Genuine faquirs make vows, that they will perform penance, by remaining, during their whole lives, in fome unnatural or un^ eafy pofture, or by torturing their bodies by various methods ; but moft of them are not excited by real penitence or compunction, but are fpurred on by vainglory, endeavour^ VOL. I. F F ing C 434 } # log to attra£k the notice and rtfyoEk of tbe commonalitj» and thereby to raife thca> fislve» to efteem and honour, I met with feveral of them» at difiêrent times. Among others» were (bme, who, by keeping one arm (betched out upwards for many years, had loft the power of lower- ing it againj and were forced always to re- main in that pofition. Others, who had made choice of a bend in their body forwards» 'and who were, in confequencej^ grown fb crooked, that they formed a right angle. Some/ who by continually bending the bead backwards, could not bring it back to its natural pofition. There were others again, who dragged heavy iron chains about with them, during their whole lives. In- laud, as I have related in my journal, I faw i)ne^ who had a brafs ring, of the thickncis of a quill, thruft through the pcnis^ with three other rings of iron, rivetted to it like links of a chain» without it feemiag to im- commode him at all, in walking. Conjurers, and ierpent^channers, are to be met with, in abundance. The latter, chiefly refide in the villages, and exercife their art for a trifle of money. When a fnake [ 435 ] fïial^e is fqppofêd to have taken up his abode^ in a houfe^ or any other place» one of thefe exprcifts is fent for, who performs his office in the following manner : He firil creeps, upon his hands and knees, all over the ground, fmelling in every hole j|nd corner» and foon difcovers the reptile, if there be one, by the fcent, Havjng thus afcertained whereabouts the animal is, he fits down, and taking out a little flute, made of bone, plays upon it for fome time, till the fnake comes out of his bidingplace, and darts at him, with a violent hifs ; he then drops the flute ; catches the creature in both hands, and kills it, at one blow, by fl:riking its head againft the ground, without being bitten by it. They know how to deprive fnakes of their poiibn ; ufing for that purpofe a little ball of capfkj or cotton, with which they take it from between the teeth, where it lies, in- clofed in bladders; and they keep the fnakes, thus deprived of their venemous quality, in wicker ba&etfi, carrying them about .the country, and making them dance. When I was at Fuhab^ I fent for one of them, io order to fee tibis curious exhibition. F9 2 He [ 436 ] He brought three bafkets with him^ in which there were fever al fnakes. He took out two of them, both Cobras di CapeUi, which are efteeraed the moft venemous of all, and threw them upon the ground, in the grafs. They immediately began hifling, and erefting half of their bodies upright, darted upon, and twined round each other, as often as he encouraged them. They Ibmetimes darted at the byftanders, but then he caught them fuddenly by the tail, and drew them back. He fometimes excited them againft himfelf, and fuffered them to bite his breaft, hands, and forehead, till the blood ftreamed from the wounds. After having made them play their tricks for Ibmc time, he took out of a baflcet, a very large fnake, which was at leaft twelve or thirteen feet iu length, and beautifully variegated with tints of green and yellow ; he made it bite him fo hard in the breaft, that it re- mained hanging by its teeth, without feem- ing to do him any harm ; he then took a fmaller one, put its head into his mouth, and made it feize his tongue, to which it likewife cleaved by the teeth ^ and throwing them round his neck and arms, was encircled i9 [ 437 ] in their folds, without fuflfering any other in- convenience, than the blood flowing from the wounds, along his face and breaft. Although thefè men, do not die by the cffc&s of the venom, becaufe, as aforefaid, they have the fecret of depriving the fnakes of their poifbn every day, yet their fkin has a leprous and fcaly appearance, and they are covered with puftules. Both Moors and Bengalefe take great delight in having women dance before them, who are kept for that purpofe, and are edu- cated, from their infancy, in the exercife of this diverfion. Their feafts and entertain- ments would be deftitute of attradion, if a troop of fix or eight dancing-girls were not prefent at them. Whenever they ^re fent for, they are alw$iys accompanied by forpe of their mufi- cians, who, with their cymbals, tomtoms^ »nd an inftrument which refembles a violin, and upon which they play with a little ftick, do not make a difjigreeable concert, at leaft in the Bengal tafte; and they accompany their performance with their voices, which, however, is not the moft pleafant part of the (entertainment. FP3 - The [ 438 ] The dancing girk are richly ^coratftd^ according ta their fafhion, With rings c£ gold, or of filver gilt, upon their arm^, legs, fihgers, toes, and necks ; they hkvt golden circlets, of the ihapé of French horns^ pafled thl-ough the left floftril. Their drefe con- fifls in wide MöoJ-ifli drtWers, which reach to Ihcir heels, and are fattened rotind the waift ; over this, they havfc a kéAafy which is made with a frtlall body above, aiid a flovving petticoat below; it is made tight Under the bofonij which il fupport^, and prefles upwards, but which it covers en- tirely ; the fleeves come down to the hands, and are faftened^With a roW of litue but- tons underneath. Their hair, which is quite black, and Ihines with oil, is flroked fmooth óver the head to the back part, where it is tied in a kiiot. They have a veil of white muflin, which is thrown over the whole, a'lld with which they conceal their faces frorti time to ^ime, during the dance. Their dance's conGft in continual twinings and bendings óf the body and head ; and in advancing and receding, as is pradifed in the Spanifh dances. If any one be captivated by the charms of their [439 1 their perfbns, or of their dancing, they make no fcruple of gratifying him with the enjoy* ment of thofe which are leis public, for a trifling confideration ; and without occa« iioning the leaft fcandal to the company^ or to their companions, who continue danc- ing, without noticing the retreat of their frail ^^iate. F F 4 CHAPTER [ 440 ] CHAPTER. III. Marriages of the Betigakfe. — Burning alive ef Widows.— Ample Account of the d^emonies ok- ferved onfucb an Occajion. — Another Injtance.— Burying alive Widows. — D-Jeafes incident i$ She Natives. — Dyjentery. — Swelled Legs. — ^^be Jounibaad. —Small-pox. — InoculatiOfi. — Pra3i- tioners of Pbjic. — 'Jbeir R:medies. — Mode of Salutation. — Manner of Drinking.^ — HouJboUt Con- veniences. — Tbe Moguls. — Their Ccmplexian.^^ CbaraOer. — Religion. — Morals. — Infamous De^ baucberj. — Dr^fs. HE Bengalefc marry no more than one wife^ except the brahmins, who take as many as they choofe, or can maintain j yet if the wife of one of another caile be barren, and he have money enough to fupport her, he is allowed by the brahmins, upon payment of a certain fum, and the diftributiou of ibme alms, to take a fecond wife, in addition to the firft^ The ceremonies which take place at their marriages are of little importance. Oirls^ as in all w^roi climates, are maiv riageble [ 441 3 xiageable at an early age, and they ceale like wife to bear children very foon. The women live in the ftrideft fubje&ion to their buibandst and in fome caftes, the vives are obliged, when their hufbands die^ to follow them to the other world, and are cither burnt, or buried alive together with the body : if they were to refufe fubmit- ting to this barbarous cuftom, their cha« rafters would be ftamped with the greats- eft infamy, and they would live the fcorn and derifion of their companions and rela^ lives. I was an eyewitnefs of the burning of a Bengalefe woman, and of the ceremonies which accompanied it ; and the following is the account of it, which I drew up at the tjnje: On the 25th of November, having re- ceived intimation that this folemnity would take place about noon, I went betimes, with fome of my friends, to the place which had been pointed out to us ; it was a fewpac^ out oi Cbinfurab, upon the banks of the Ganges. We here found the body of the deceafed, lying upoQ a kadef^ or couch, covered with a piece I 44» 1 piert of white cotton, and ftrcwcd wiüi JSri, or betel-leaves. The Woman, who was 'to be the vi6Hm, fat upon tht couch, at the foot-end, with 4ier legs crofted under her, and her face turn- td towards that of the deceafed, which was tincovefed* The hufband feemed to me, to have been a perfbn of aliout fifty years of age, and his widow was full thirty. She had a yellow cotton cloth wrapped around litr, and her amis and hands were adorned "With rings of chancos. Her hair, which hung loofe all round her head, was plenti- fully Arcwed with ground fandalwood. She ïiêld a little green branch in her right hand, with which flie drove away the flies from tile body. Round her, upon the ground, lat ten or twelve women, who kept fupplying her with irefli betel, a portion of which flie had con- tinually in her mouth ; and when flie had "half mafticated it, Öie gave it to one of her Ifemale friends, or to others of the byftand- ers, who begged it of her, wrapped it up in pieces of cloth, and preferved it as a relic. She fet, for the greateft part of the time, like one buried in the deepcft meditation ; yet t 443 ] yet with a countenance that hetrayfed not the leaft figns of fear. The other wottien^ her relations and friends, {poke to her con-^ tinually of the happinefe which fllfe waé about to enjoy, with her hufband, in a fu- ture life. One of thefe women, who fat behind her upon the couch, frequently em-*, braced her, and feemed to talk the nioft, and very earaeftly, with her* Befidcs the women, feveral meft, as well her relations^ as brahmins, were prefent, who at intervals, ftruck their cymbals, and beat their drums, accompanied by the fbngs, or cries o£ the women, taiaking a moft deaf* cning noife. About half paft teii o'clock^ they began to prepare the funeral pile, at the diftance of a li(;tle more than eight feet from the fpot> where the unfortunate widow was fitting, but which flie beheU with the moft ftoic indifference, as if it in no ways concerned her. The pile was made, by driving four green bamboo ftakes into the earth, kaving about ifive feet above the ground, and being about fix ftct from each other, forming a fquare, in which was firft laid a layer of Jarge üre- wood, which was very dry, and eafily com- buftible ; [ 444 ] builible ; upon this was put a quantity of dry ftrawy or reeds, which hung over beyond the woody and was plentifully befmeared with gbee^ which is a fort of butter, when it becomes old and rank. This was done alteniately, till the. pile was about five fc^t in height ; and the whole was then firewed with fine powdered rofin. Finally, a white cotton fheet, which was firA wafhed in the Ganges J was fpread over the pile, thus com^ pletely prepared for coufuming of the devot-^ ed vidim. The widow was then admonifhed by a brahmin, that it was time to begin the rites. She was then taken up by two women, from the couch, carried a little farther, and put down upon the ground, while the others made a circle round her, and continued to offer her fre(h betel, accompanied by enf* treaties, that, as ihe would, in fo (hort a time, appear, with her hufband in the prcr fence oiRam^ or their higheft God, (he would fupplicate for various favours for them ; and above all, that (he would (alute their deceafed friends, whom Ihe might meet in the celefr tial abodes, in their names. Jn th« me^n time, the body was taken up [ 445 ] \3p from the couch by four men, and car- ried to the river, where it was waflied clean^ and rubbed with turmeric, but which was afterwards wafhed off again. Upon this, one of the brahmins took a little clay out of the river, and marked the forehead of the deceafed with it, wrapping the body up in white linen ; which, when this had been done, was carried to the pile, and laid upon it. The woman, who had beheld all thefe pre- parations, was then led by two of her female relations to the Ganges, in order to wafli in the river. When flie came again upon the bank, her clothes were pulled oflF, and a piece of red filk and cotton gingham was wrapped round her body. One of her male relatives, took out her gold nofc-jewel, while fhe fat down, and gave it to her, but (he re- turned it to him for a memorial of her. Hereupon fhe went again to the river, and taking up fome water in her hands, mut- tered Ibme prayers, and offered it to the fiin. All her ornaments were then taken from her, and her armlets vrere broken, and chap- lets of white flowers were put upon her neck and hands. Her hair was .tucked up with [ 44Ö 3 vith i)vc combs, and her forehead vnm insrked with QÏ^y in the fame manner as thai of her hufband. Her head was co- vered with a piece of iilk^ and a cloth was tied round her body, in which the brahauns put fbme parched rice. She then took her laft farewel of her friends, both men and women, who had'af- fiAed her \n the preparation, and flie was conduced by two of her female relations to the pile. ,When flie came to it, (he feat* tered from that fide, where the head of the deceafed lay, flowers and parched rice up- on the fpeólators. She then took fbme boiled rice, rolled up in a ball, and put it into the mouth of the deceafed, laying fè- veral other fimilar balls of rice under the pile. Two brahmins next led her three times round it, while ihe threw parched rice among the byflanders, who gathered it 9p with great eagerneis. The laft time that fhe went round, fhe iet a little earthen burning lamp, at each of the four corners* The whole of this was done during ^n ijx^ cefTant noifb of cymbals and drunns, ^q4 amidfl: the (houts of the brahmins, a^ pf her relations. After having thus walked three • t 447 1 three tim^s round the pile, flie mounte4 courageoufly upon it, laid herfelf down up-» on the right fide, next to the body, which fhc embraced with both her arms ; a piece of white cotton was fpread over them both^ they were bound together over the arms, and middle, with two caiy bandages, and a quantity of firewood, ftraw, ghee^ and rofin, was laid upon them* In the laft place, her neareft relation, to whom (he had given her nofe-jewel, came with a burning torch, and fet the ftraw on fire, and in a moment the whole was in a flame. The noife of the drums was redoubled, and the fhouts of the fpeftators were more loud and inceffant than ever, fo that the (hrieks of the unfortunate woman, had flie uttered any, could not poC- fibly have been heard. What mgft fiirprized me, at this horrid and barbarous rite, was the tranquillity pf the woman, and the joy expreffed by her ref- lations, and the fpe^ators. The wretchsij viftim, who beheld thefe preparations mak- ing for her cruel death, fcemed to be much lefs afi^eöed by it, than we Europeans, who were prefent. She underwent every thing with i 448 ] with the greateft intrepidity, and her coun^ tenance feemed, at times» to be animated with pleafure, even at the moment when fhe was afcending the fatal pile. Her feet appeared from between the fire- woody on the fide where I ftood ; and I had an opportunity of obferving them, becauie a little breeze, playing upon that fide, cleared it of the flame and fmoke ; I paid peculiar attention to her, in order to difcoverMfhether any convulfive motions agitated her feet, but they remained immovable, in the midil of the conflagration* The women who were prefeiit, and who all, (boner or later, would have to undergo the fame fate, if they furvived their hufbands, appeared to rejoice at the facrifice, and (hew- ed every token of exultation. If an European were to touch fucha de- voted woman, even accidentally, (he would not be allowed to be burnt, and would be thought entirely defiled and profaned. The man who had touched her, would be expofed to great danger, if he did not purchafe in- demnity, by large fums of money. This happened to our direftor Sichterman* who was t 449 ] Waè obliged to pay twenty-five thouiartd rü- f>ees, for an imprudence of this kind, which he had been guilty of. If the women were to refufe accompany- ing their hufbands, in this manner^ to the other world, they would be defpifed and abandoned by their friends, as the refufe of fbciety, the dregs of impurity. In fuch cafes, they are never allowed to marry again ; their hair is (haved off, and an eternal difgrace attaches both to themfelves and to their family. Hence their relations employ all poflible perfuafions, and aflidu* ouily encourage thefe wretched creatures to lubrait to the univerfal cuftom ; yet I was told that this is feldom neceflary, as they poffefs flifHcient enthufiafni, willingly to de- vote themfelves, to this horrible death. r A little before I arrived in the Ganges^ a rich Bengalefe, who was the broker of our Company, had died, and left a young and handfome widow, under feventeen years of age ; with whom he had but once cohabited, in the beginning of his marriage, and inftead of living with her, had kept a concubine, with who? i he refided. As foci as he was dead, her friends came vou I. G G to i 45pe^ they firft lay th^ right h«Ad up- on the hreafi, th^u tpuch (he ground with it, and afterwards the forehead. They are ^t deficient in eypf^fuons of humility, when they addre1& any one, from Tyhprp they ftand in need pf any favour. The leaft that they fay, is, " I am your moft '^ devoted Havfs /' b]Lit, ii^ the fame way as takes pl^ce fi) our more civiUxed Europe, they are mere founds, words of courfe, figni- fyii)g nothii>g. They yfïllj pn no account, drink out of the fame veflel with an European, or Ma* homedan ; ( 455 i hom^^an ; nay» not wkh any one of a dif* ferent cafte. ' WJhcn they drink, they do not {èt tbc veflel to the xnouth, but hold it at a little diflance above it, and let the liquor run into the mouth, without clofing ^ * the lips, or drawing breath ; and yet with- ^"^ out ipiiling a drop. Their hoxïChold ccmvenieiiccs are very few ; they never make ufe of either chairs, or benches. The Moors» or Moguls, form the remain- der of the inhabitants o£ Bengal They were originally natives of Tariary. They are, in general, browner than the Gentoos, although fome of them are tolerably fair, or rather yelloTiviüi ; but thefe are born farther to the north. Moft of thofe who live about Agra^ and Debly^ are, as I was informed by the be- forementioued French miffionary, fair, in comparifon with the inhabitants of the more fouthcrn provinces. They are more courageous than the Ben- galefc. Their Jipabis make middling good - foldiers, when they are trained and com- manded by European officers ; at leaft, ac- cording to the teftimony of the EngIifli,who employ them much. 004 Their [ 456 ] Their religion is that of Mahomet. They, in confequencc, hold in abhorrence the ido- latry of the Gcntoos. Yet their morals arc, on the other hand, much worfe ; and indeed infamoufly bad. The fin of Sodom is not only in univerfal praó^icc among them, but extends to a beflial communication with brutes, and in particular with fheep. Women even abandon themfelves to the commiflion of unnatural crimes. One of my friends, who had refided for a long time at PatTta^ informed me, that, during his abode at that place, a Moorifli woman had endeavoured, like another Pafiphae, to fatisfy her luft, in the embraces of a ftallion ; but the dreadful confequencc of her boundlefs lubricity were, that fhe was fo feverely hurt in her attempts to procure the enjoyment flie fought, that fhe died in the greateft agonies, a few hours afterwards. I do not believe that there is any country upon the face of the globe, where lafcivious irjtemperance, and every kind of unbridled lewdnefs, is fo much indulged in, as in the lower provinces of the empire of Jndojian. The contamination of vice is not folely confined to the two nations, who ar^ natives of the country, but extends likewif« to r 4S7 3 to the Europeans, who fettle, or trade here. The climate influences perhaps more upon the conftitution here, than in other coun« tries. The drels of both rich and poor, among the Moguls, is nearly alike, and differs only in coftlincfs. It confifts of a long coat, which is called kabay^ as has been before do* icribed. They tie a girdle round the mid- dle, and in it, on the left fide, they wear a weapon, which they call by a name that may be tranflated belly-piercer ; it is about fourteen inches long ; broad near the hilt, and tapering away to a (harp point ; it is made of fine fteel ; the handle has, on each fide of it, a catch, which, when the weapon is griped by the hand, (huts round the wrift, and fecures it from being dropped. They fcldom or never go out, without having it in their girdle, in the fame manner, as the Ja- yanelè wear their krifles* CHAP. I «t« I CHAPTER IV. Government in Bengal. — Coins. — fVeigbts. — d fimes* — Hindoos ^Tmc—Ckronmeun.-^ tfy4tmt€. — lAmJ-Mrniejre. — Animals. — £Ie^ fkams. — Tiserj.-^-iVild Brakes j^JtduMls.^^ Snakis.'^lMjkSfs. — Birds ofPrty. — Fijh. ^-^Crooh diles.'-^Languaies* — Articles of Conmerce^ — Silk. — Management cf the Silkworms,' — Cotton Manu- fa£lures.--^Optum.—Mode of its Cultivation and CoUeStion. — Annual ^antity colleflEd. — Saltpetres ^^Gumlactu^^Articks ^hnportathn. JSeNG^L. is under the acknini^lration of a goveroor, üylcd Naéolj or properly Na^ «^t ^^^ ^^^ foriDerly appointed ^by the coapcror of Indojijan^ or the Great Mogul {)fyai MTW this is ^at by the Eoglüh)^ as his lieuteoaat. Tbei^ viceroys were generally taken» in an hereditary ruccefiion, or in de- fault of a male heir, from the neareft rela- tives ; and though they were only the dele- gates of the emperor, as lord paramount^ they ruled, in fa6l, as fovereign princes. They were, however, obliged to furnifh men and arms to the emperor, when at war, and C 459 3 and io «ptjr a eertaia f FopartMn of tbe an- nual revemMis «4uch they ^ and part of the circuffijacent country, and fettles all differences which arife be- tween the inhabitants. * We have no particular account of the anaouQts paid into the Imperial treafury, from the province of B4Hgal\tK* cept one, of the year 1707, when the empire was in its moft flourifliing fiate, under the famous Aurbkgcebb. The revenue from the fubah of Bingai was then i%^b^(k^i\o dams, making at forty dams, and xs. td per rupee, 1,639,488/. 5/. ilerling. The whole of the revenues from all the pro- vinces, then amounted to id^o; 1,8761840 dams, or j 7,724,6} $/• 2/. 6d. fierling. T. The [ 46o J The only current coins in Bengal^ and in the whole extent of Indojian^ are gold and filver rupees. All foreign gold and filvcr, whether coined, or in bullion, is carried to the mint, and transformed into rupees,wbich are ftamped with Perfian letters inflead of any portrait, or arms. They decreafe every year in value, and at the end of nine years, the Jicca rupees are taken at the fame rate as Arcot rupees. When the rupees firft come from the mint, they are called ^rr^ rupees of the firft year. Thofe which are coined at Moor/he- dabad are the current coin in which the trade of the Company is carried on,* and by' which all the other rupees .in cir-^ culation here, are reduced. It is divided into fixteen annas ; its intrinfic value in Dutch money, is one gilder, four ftivcrs and a half, and it is taken in the Com- pany's books at twenty-five Olivers; but ' in Indian currency, at thirty-one ftivers and a half, for which it is . current at Hougly *• It is the money of account, ac- cording ♦ In Sir Isaac Newton's table of the ifflays, weights, and values of foreign filver and gold coinsj made at the Mint, by t 461 1 cording to which the value of the other ru- pees are calculated, at a difcount, or agio» ^^hich is called batta^ of from fix to twelve per cent, which undergoes continual flufhi- ations, by the management of the money- changers. The Arcot rupees, which arc coined by the Englifh at Arcot^ and by the French at Tondicberryy go for thirty ftivers *, yet the laft are reckoned from one to three per cent better than the former. The gold rupee, which is called mobur, is worth fifteen G\vtrjicca rupees. Halves, fourths, eighths, and fixteenths of rupees, arq likewife coined ; the laft, as above iald, are called annas. Copper coin is not feen in Bengal. For change they make ufe of the fmall feaftiells, called cowries, eighty of which make a by order of the privy-council, before the year 1717, the af- fay of the rupee is dated at i6i dr S^^ ^^ ^^^ c^^i^h being» at Cbm^ fiirahy two feet and ten inches Rhineland meafurei. The cabido^ is< the univerfal mex- fure of length» all over the weft of India« Diftances between places» are mealured \ifCofei five Cijsy are equal to about twa Dutch miles \. ^ The cAid» in Bengal is, as near as poiHUe i^ of an IngUik yaid; tbe exaft proportion is^ that 7^978 cobidos Q)ake3,jr7j.yards. T. t Tbe co/s in Bengal is generally taken, by the Englifb» to be about two miles ; in the upper pans of Ind^fimi it is only ab^vt one andi a half. 7^ The t 4«4 ] The day and night, are here divided mtd four quarters, each of fix hours, and thefe again into fifteen parts, of Itwenty-four mi- nutes each. For a chronometer, they ufe a kind of difli of thin brafs, at the bottom of which there is a little hole : this is put into a veflcl or large pot with water ; and it runs full in a certain time. They begin their firft quarter at fix o'clock in the morn- ing. They fl;rike the quarters and flib- divifions of time, with a wooden hammer, upon a flat piece of iron, or fteel, of about ten inches in diameter, which is called a garnial^ and gives a pretty fmart found, which can be heard at fome diftance. The quarters are firft ftruck, and then as many times as the brafs difh has run full, in that quarter. None but the chief men of a dif- triél are allowed to have a garnial^ and ftill they may not ftrike the firft divifion of the firft quarter, which is a privilege refervcd to the nabob alone. Thofe who attend at thefe clocks, mnft be of the brahmin caftc* The veflcls which are ufed for inland navigation, on the Ganges, are very lightly built of thin deals, without either keel or fide-timbers. The edges of the planks arc fafteued [ %6s ] faftened together with ftaples, add the feams are Ilcif^ed up with mofs, and payed with grcafc. Thfe krgcft width of them is about cue- third of their whole length from the ftern, where they run up with a bend ; they are very fharp forwards, and are not very high above the water. Although they are of different fizes, they are all of the fame ihape dnd conftruólion ; and fome of them can load fifty thoufand pounds weight of merchandize, and more *. The boats ufcd by the Europeans, as well as by the natives of confideration, for tra-. velling, are called budgerows. On the out- fide they have the fame conflruftion with the former,, but within, they are calculated for convenience. The fpace from the mid- ♦ Thefe boats are called bwrs in Bengali they arc rude barksy and have a üngle mafl, with a large fquare fail ; they take in a great quantity of water from the (ides and bottoms, which compels the crew to employ fome people continually in baling. They are ufed for the carriage of cotton, and other bully materials, the weights of which cannot bear any proportion to their iize. In common with all the other boats of the country, their bottoms are nearly fiat ; indeed it would be impraéticable, on the Ganges^ to employ reflcis calcukted to draw any confiderable quantity of water, as the navigation is rendered extremely dangerous, from the fands being continually fliifting. T. VOL. u H H die [ 466 1 die to the ftern, is occupied by one or two apartments, having windows on the fides; thefe rooms are from fix to fcven feet in height» and are as commodious as if tbej wore in a houie. The fternmoft of them, is the bedroom. The budgerwos are of va. rious fizes, from twenty-five to fixty feet in length, and longer. They are rowed, as they former are, by from fix to twenty men. The oars are long poles, to the end of which a little oval board is nailed^ in lieu of a leaf; they do not Arike the water crofs ways, but obliquely backwards. Some- what more forwards {lands a maft, upon which a fquare fail is hoifted, when they go be- fore the win4 ; when they have a fide- wind, they drive down athwart the ftrcam, not having a keel, or timber enough un- der water, being flatbottomed, and drawing fcarcely a foot, or a foot and a half *. They * The ludgerows are ftccrcH hy a large paddle, or oar, extending ten feet from the (lern ; and befides the mail men- tioned in ihc text, they have likewife a topmail, with a fquare topfail, for fine weather. The Engliih gentlemen in Bemg^l^ have made great improvements in the hudgervios, by intro- ducing a broad ^t floor, fquare fiema, and broad bows. Tbcy thereby are rendered much kStVy fail near, and keep their ' C 467 ] They have another kind of boats, which they call pulwabs. Thefe are very long, low, and narrow ; they are not calculated for the conveyance of goods : they are fcull- ed inftcad of being rowed, and they are very expeditious for pafling from one place to another *. At their wind ; and there is no danger attending their taking the ground ; they are befides calculated to carry more fail. T^ * A gentleman in his iutigercnu^ is ufually attended by a ful'zoa&f for the accommodation of the kitchen, and a fmaller boat, which is called a pauncbway^ and is déÜined to convey (lim either on ihore, or on board, as it frequently happens that the budgervu) cannot come clofe to the place where he w idles to land, or to embark. Thefe boats move more ex- peditioufly than the budgerwos \ but the pmuncbways are nearly of the fame general conftrudion, with this diiference, that the greatefl breadth is fomewhat farther aft, and the ftern lower* Another boat of this country, which is very curioufly con- ftrur pared, which has a flip, or border, of about two inches, deep, ftanding, upright upon it, encircling firft its outer edge, aiid then run- ning in a fpiral direftion, to the center, leav- ing ant intfrrmediate ipace of abput an inch and a half. As [ 473 1 As fooa as they perceive tbAt a worm i% about to fpio» they take it away ftom, th« others, and put it upon this mat» between the borders^ where it ipins its bail, or cocoon^ which is afterwards reeled, off io wmwi water. The nympba^ which come from the: CO* coons that are reeled off, are not* thought fitt for preierving the eggs of them ; but tboib which they keep for that purpofe, are^iuf*- fered, whea they become moths^ to eat their way through the balls ; and of tbefe per- forated cocoons they make an inferior kind of filk, called floret. The materials from which their piece* goods. are wove, is the capok^ or cotton. It grows upon a (hrub, or tree, which is cul<>. tivated in very great abundance, in this country, though yet not in fufficient quan- tities for all the piecegoods which are^ aiir. nually manufaéhired here ; for much of it is brought hither from Surat. Some kindsr of piecegoods, likewife, require two differeat forts of capok. The capok is ftretched with a wire, upoi^ an arched piece of wood, like a bow, cleans ed from all . its impurities, ipun by the wo- men C 474 ] men into yarn, and finally woven into piece- goods of various denominations by the men. The weaving manufaftories are difperfcd throughout the country, and are call au^ rungs. A diftinft kind is wove in every diftria. Printed cottons, commonly called chintzes:, are not manufaÖured here, but on the coaft of Coromandd\ except near Patna^ in the province of Bahar^ whence fome of them come, which arc called, from the name of the place, Patna chintzes. The fineft muflins and cottons are made about Dacca^ where likevyife the fincfl capok is produced. Opium is a very important produftion, both for the inland trade, and that which is carried on by fea, to the coaft of Coroman- del^ and Batavia. It is not, in faél, pro- duced in Bengal^ but in Babar^ which bor- ders upon the former ; but all that is cxt ported, comes down the Ganges ^ through BitigaL More than pne hundred thoufand pounds weight of thisdrugisannually (hipped by our Company's veffels, and is confumedat yavaj the Moluccas^ and other places in the caftcrn part of jijia. The natives of all thofe [ 475 ] ^ g fc countries are very fond of it, fmoking ^ o ogether with their tobacco, or chewing it '^ mixed. The mode in whicH it is collefted is as dows : the ieed is Ibwn in the month of Acber, in a (oil which has been Ipecially o epared for the purpofe, not without much ^ ouble. "" A fortnight or three weeks afterwards, fome of the feeds are dug up, in order to fee whether they have already germinated and ftruck root ; if this be the cafe, they begin to water the fields, which are all cut through with furrows, conveying the moifture to every part» When the bulbous root of the plant be- gins to arrive at maturity, which only happens after the petals of the flowers have fallen, the planter daily examines one of the pooreft roots, to fee whether they are ripe enough for coUeÖing the fap ; for this purpofe he makesufe of a little (harp knife, with which, in the morning, he niakes an incifion in the bulb, and if he find, in the evening, that a gummy fap, the opiuna, have exfuded from it, it is a fign that the roots are fufficiently ripe. Hereupon, men, women, and chil- dren. C 47^ 3 dren, for an iocrediblG number of people vrt employed in this work^ reiorfi to the opium* fields^ in order to open the bulbsi. Thty take them in the hollow of ihe^ hand, holding them fad by the ilalk between ti» ingisrs^ and make tiie^ iacidon, yet with great precaution, that the inner membrane be not wounded, for then the root dies in- ilantly. After haying thus cut opoi the roots in the evening, they all return,, early the aexü mornings to the field, each with a little pot, and gently fcrape off^ with a littie ihellt the congealed, fap, which has extilled from the bulb, Jnto tbe pot, giving another cut in the root, the produce of which they again coUeö in the evening. If the roots be fine and large, the inciiion oim be repeated three or four times. The fa|>, which is. coUeded both noo^ning and' ov^^i^^g» i^ delivered to the proprietor o£ the 6eld^. upon* thc^ return of the la-^ bourerss;. andiitis.tben put all together into large tubs^ where it p;uriiics itfelf by fermen* tatjicR. The coUeflion of the opium takes place pxJhfi raonth*^f January and February. A piece t 477 1 A picCT of land of ten rood fqnare *, it generally cftimated to )rield five or fix pounds weight of opium, and affords a great profit to the planter. When the when thcy ftih flèWn by drops» if let on firis. The articles which are difpc^ed of to ad- vantage in Bengal^ are all kinds of fpices» pepper» japan copper» iahdalwood» and (a- panwood ; likewife tin» lead» pewter» and other European commodities. CHAP- ^ [ 48« -] CHAPTER V. European Naikns in Bengal. — The Englijb.^-^ £vgnts which gave R^e to their Power here. — Battle of Plajfey. — Anecdote of Lord Clive.— VCheir Revenues. — Governments — Fortunes made hy Individuals. — Oppreffiun of the Natives, — De^ fcription of Calcutta. — Fort William. — Their other Fort'^cations and great Strength. — Mifunderft onding between the Englijh and Dutch. —MifconduSl of a Dutch DireSor.-^The Dutch FaRory. — Their Government. — Dtreaor.^ Chief of CossiMB AZ AE. — Heod-Adminifhator. — Suyetin^ tendent in the Qoth^roo^. — Chief of theJUCktofy. --Firft Warebmifekieper.—Fifcal^ or Sheriff.-^ Comptroller of Equipment. — Dyjpenfier^ or Bur^ vy w. --^Secretary. —Councu of Jufiice^ X* OUR European natiom have eflablifhcd themfelves here^ for the purpofes of com-** merce ; namely/ the EnglUh, the Dutch» the French, and the Danes. The Eaft-In- dia Company of OJl^nd^ had formerly a fac- tory here, about two Dutch miles below our's, on the eaftern bank of the Ganges^ at a place called Baniiiazar, but which, VOL. I. II after [ 482 ] after a long ficge, having been taken by the Moors, in 1738, or 1739*1 the Oftend Com- pany were obliged to abandon the trade of Bengal. . Of the four abovemontioned European nations, the EngUih are» at prefent» tbe principal I being, fince their viélories over the armies of the nabob, and the great Mogul, in a great meafure, territorial fove- reigqs of the country : and they make ufc of their power» in this refpeél, to circumforibe» ^t pleafiire, the trad? of other nations* Althou|;h tbey eflabUüied a conunercial intercourie with tbis country* at an early period» they owde but «n infig^uficant figure» ia compSKifoa with us» before the years 1755 and 1756, when ihcir trade, after having b^en brought to the brink of deftnic^ tion, role, like a phcenii;, out of its afliee i ixki their Company Inive fince arrived at 9 pitch of power an4 prqfperity in th« wcftera parta of India, equal iq thaCt of o^r*s in the eaftern« This great change proceeded from ^ very trifling circucnftaace, aqd one that feemed, on the contrary^, to threaten their entire ruin, t TbifttoippenecHA the year 2748. T* In t **3 J In the year 1756^ the nabob of Cojjim* imzar^ or viceroy of Bengal^ defiringto have ibme European goods, ient one of his officers^ for that purpofe, to the chief (ettle« tnent of the Eaigliih at Calcutta. The go^ vernor at that timr, who was a man of a brutal and infblent difpofition, inftead of complying with the defire of the nabobs having ibme real^ or imaginary, motives for düTatisfadion, had the envoy feized, tied to a flake, and flogged, fending him back to his mafler, without the things he came for ♦. This, * The tnalaftioa upon which tha noirrepfcieatatioo is fimnded, happened in the following nuntf : -* Sot a jas PowLAB» the new nabob of BmgéL^ one or two days tfter his acceffioQ, in the bcg^ining of April, 1756, wmte m letter CO the pitfident of Cainutm^ ordering him to deliver up a aiaa who Ittd taken refuge with the EngMlh Arocn the known ty« sannical difpofidon of the nabobs with ins treafurea. The beater of thb tetter, came in a finali boat, aod knded in the difguiie of a common pedlar# He immediatttly proceeded to the houie of OicicHy vp,a nndve meichant, who waa ftiong» ly fttfpeaed of intripiing with the wbob, a^iift the Engliflu Oil ICB0IIO» at the governor» Mr. Draks, was ablent, in- troduced him to Mr. Hoi»wb4JL, a member of the coooci « who (operintended the police of the town. The governor re* turning the neit day, fummoned a counpl» of which the pi^ority bong prepofl&flU agnnft Omxcxvko, concluded It a that ( 484 1 This, as may cafily be conceived» fb mttch^ inceiifed the nabob, that he immediatelj that the meflenger was an engine prepared by himfelf to alanii them, and refiore his own importance ; the council refotved tl^t both the meflcogeir and hb letter were too fufpicioiis to bb received ; and the fcTYapts who were ordered to bid hixn de* part» turned him out of the fkftory, and off the ftiore^ with m^ felence and derifioo* It was not this circumftance alone that induced Sukajar Dowlah to attack Cmlcutut^ but other caufes of more importance ; the determined difpofition of the tyrant from the beginning to moleft the £ngli(h ; the machi* nations of the French at his court ; and ofteiifiblv» a letter written by Mr. Da aks, in anfwer to one from the nabob, fignifyiug that be bad been informed the Engliih were builds ing . a wall, and digging a large ditch round CaJcutia^ Mni ordering him immediately to defift, and to defhioy all the works which might have been added to the fortifications ; ia his reply, i\it governor, perhaps imprudently, wrote, <* that ^ the nabob had been mifinformed by thofe who had repvc* << fented to him that* ttie Engliih were building a wafl, aod ^ digging a ditch round the town ; that in the bte war bi^weca << England and Fnnct;, the Fr« nch had attacked and taken *^ the town x>f Madras^ contrary to the neutrality which it •• was expe&ed would have b« en preferved in the Mogul*s ^* dominion .^ 3 and that there being at prtfent great appearance ^ of another war between the two nations, the Englifii appre^ ^ bended that the French would aA in the fame manner in ^ BiHgMli to prevent which, they were repairing tbdr line of (< guns on the bank of the river.*' It was upon receipt of thii letter, on the ' 7th of May, at Ra/amaU that the nabob in* fiantly ordered his army to march back o Cêfiithtmar, when the Engliih feé^oryifurrendered to him on the 4th of Jane ; and on the 20t.h following, Cüktttta was taken» T. marche4 C 485 3 marched with a body of troops, againft Cd/- Cuttn^ took and pItiBdered the place^ and put to death feveral of the Englilh, who had not been able to efcape to their (hips. From tliis beginning, proceeded the war, which the Englifli aftefwards waged with fo touch fuccefs, that they pcöetratcd even as far as Debfy, the capital city of the great Mogul, made themfelve's matters of his perfon, and rendered a great part of this powerful em- pire, tributary to them } more efpecially the kingdoms of Bengal and Babar^ where they are now abfolute fbvereigns ♦. The moft important victory which they obtained, was that of Plajfey^ which decided the fate of thefe regipns> and in which battle they were forced to combat an army of fif- ty thouiand men, commanded by the vizier of the Mogul empire, Surajah Dowlah, with fcafcely five hundred Europeans, and a fmall number oïjipahis. As there remain- ed no alternative for this little body of men, * Ferfaa))6 the only apology to be oflTered for the conqiieib «f 'the £ogliih in Btn^Jj is that of Marmoktil for the Spaniards in Perm ; *f9itr retmeer è ia cmiptSte si eUt/alim mm fagtfff pie les fiifies f^wtjmnmi tms^ If fmttt rüs em rmf I T 3 tbau U.J ' t 4W ) than to conquer or dic^ they ibught wkh the intrepidity of defpair, and obtained a com^ plctc vi6tory *. General Clive, who fliould have been the leader of the Englifli troops in this bat-^ tie, left tl^ command to Colonel Cootb, and remained hid in his palankeen» daring the combat, out of the reach of the ihofc, and did not make his appeamnce before the enemy were put to flight. Several £ngli£h olficerst who were prefent at the battle, re- lated this anecdote to me f . Of * The battle of fl^Jfy was fought oq the 34th of June, 1 7 J7 ; the army of the nabob confided of about 50,000 foor, .i8|000 horfef and j3 pieces of cannoOir The numbers of the little body oppofed to this multitude, were 900 Europcam, of whom zoo were artillery-men, and 50 üdlors, and 2^100 fepoys, with eight fieldpkcesi and two howitzers. T, f This improbable tale, which has been told in variou» ways, owes its origin to the following cirevmfiance, whlchoc* curfed during the cannonade preceding the rout, and is related by Mr. Orm, in givbg a circumftantial account of thi:> battle, in bis Biftwy tf 3iüHtéay TrmifaHhm in Jnthfian^ voL iL page 1 75, in thefe words :•«** About two o*cIockt the enemy ceafecf «^ the cannonade, and were percerred yoking the tnuns of ^ oxen to their aitillery^ and as foom at thefe wto in motion, '^ thdr whole army turned^ and proceedied towards thdr camp. ^ But Sinfray'^ (the commander ctf about 4e Frenchmen), ^ with his party and fieldpteces» ftill raaintainsd hb poft at .the. ^, ta»k> C 4«7 .] Of the immenfe annual revenue, wTiicli they draw from thcfe wealthy provinces, they pay twenty-five lacks of rupees to the IVf ogul and nabob, and retain the remaindef, which amounts to more than as much again, for themfelves *• A great part hereof, how* ever, ^ ttnft I tfab was a good ibtioo to cannonade the «nemy ^ from, during tbeir retreat ; and Major KUpatrtck advanced M with two companies of the battallioot and two fieldpieces, ^* towards the tank, and fent information of his intention, and ^ the reafon of it, to his commander, who chanced at this ^ time to be lying down in the hiinting*houfe" (a feat of the nabob, clofe to thé fiel^ of battle). *' Some fay he was ^ aOeep ; which is not improbable, confidering his exertions *< during the preceding day and night j but this Is no imputa^ ^ tidn either againft his courage or conduél. Starting up^ he <* ran immediately to the detachment, reprimanded Kilpatrick <( {harply for a^ing without his orders ; and then proceeded ^ htmfeif with the detachment to the tank, ixrhich Sinfray *< abandoned, and retreated to the redoubts of the intrench*' •• ment." This was followed 'by the nrioft intrepid and z€t\V€ exeriions of Colonel Clive, and a möft decifive and impor« - fSint viétory, by which the whole of th« enemy's camp, their ardlleryi elephants, &c. M into the hands of the Englifii, who loft 110 more than about 20 Europeans, and 5» fepoya, kilM and wounded, f. * The revenues of Bengal^ and the advantages refuldng to the Company and the country from our acquifitxons there, are fbpicsi on which much has been writen, more ha^ been üai^ WA but veiy little ünderltood. From one and a half ap two millions pounds fterlin^ is probably the Acartft calctt« XX4 ktioa [ 4S8 1 cvcr^ if not the whole, is abfbrbed by tbe expences of their military cftabUflunent» which is a very i^rong one. In the yeaj* 1770, they had about four thoufand Euro- pean foldiers, and thirty-five, or fortythou^ fand, Jipabisy in pay. Although they are, in faft, Tovereigns of the country, and receive the revenues arifing from it, they arc, however, wife enough not to (hew this openly. The Mogul retains a fhadow of authority, and the land is govern^* ed, as before, in his name, by a nabob, who is, howeyer, appointed by the Englifh, and dares not undertake any thing without their knowledge. For the purpofe of keeping him under their controul, one of the members of their government, the fecond in the council of Calcutta^ is always near his perfon, and prefides in his council. « By this means, no meafures are adopted by the nabob, but fuch as are confonant with the views of the coun- cil of Calcutta. The gentleman who fills this important office, is called the refident at the Durbar^ by which is underftood the lation of the nctt receipts of the Company^ which are employ* ed in the China-trade| and ia invefiments in piecq;oods to this country. T, . , . ^ Moorifh t 4% ] Moori(h council, and his influence and au« thority arc fo great, chat the title of nabob, or viceroy, ought rather to be given to him, than to the nominal nabob ; for the latter is obliged to wait upon the refident every morning, to inform him of the occurrences of the preceding day.. He is received with- out ceremony, and if the refident be occu- pied, muft wait till he have leifurè to afford an audience. It may eafily be conceived, how ill this agrees with the pride of the orientals, who would not before permit the approach of any European, but in thq moft humble and re- ^>e&ful ibanner. The •office of refident at the Durbar^ is not only very honourable, but it is Kkewife one of the moil lucrative. Three or four years* enjoyment of it, is fufEcient for the accumulation of a princely fortune. In the year 1767, one of thefè refidenrs returned to Europe with a fortune of nine * million^ of gilders ; which he had obtained by his dexterous management of affairs, during the three years which he had filled this office. 'When Lord Ciive returned to England, for tbr the kd time, he carried awx/, as h tf iiiid^ a crore of rupees^ whicb is fifteen mil* lions of gilders. The yoke of fervitüde» which the Bnglüh have thus impofed upon the Moors, is not borne very patiently by them. On the coa^ trary^ they would do every thing in thdr power» to deliver themfeives from their ty« rants, if thefè were not (b firmly eilablilhed here. The only hope which remains for them« is» that if the land be wholly exhauft* ed, the Englifh will no more hold the means of maintaining themfeives in their pofleA fions. The imfortunate Ben^efe are ftill worfe off; they are Brfl opprei&d by the Moors, and afterwards Uy the l^gliih ; and jet it is their manual labour that has pur* chafed all the immenfe dches» which have been drawn, from time immemorial, both by their neighbours in Afia, and their vifitors from Europe, and have fiiccefGvelj fwelled the treafures of the Great Mogul, of their nabobs, and of the Englifh Eaft^iodta Company. They work for tf mere trifle» and live frugally upon a little rice, and ibmc vegetables. Nothing, or very little of the i^ecie that is imported, goes out of the coun- try £ 491 1 cry again^ as th« materials for their manii^^ tttres are produced in the laad, except ibme citpokt whicl^ is brought from &urat. Thefe poor people, who contribute fo much to the profpcrit^r of the country^ iciftead of being favoured and encouraged by the Engliih, are, on the contrary, continually expoTed to the rapacious extprtions of their talkmafters, and are oppreffed in every way, partly by open violence, and partly by monopolies, which the Englifh have made of all articka neceiTary to life ; the dried cowdung even not excepted, which thefe poor people ulc for fueL But this is not io much to be aicribed to the £ng]i(h Company, as to their fervants, who leave no means untried, to accumulate wealth. They do n by/ I 493 1 ^y» with U89 it frequently happens, that de* £erving men, who have ferved tlic Company for many years, with diligence and hdhour, are pafled oyer without notice, for want of influence, and of friends. Calcutta^ or Coulicatta^ as it is called hy the Moors, is the capital of the Engllüi in, bengal \ although un walled, it may juftly ^<^i^v\t the name of a city, from its extent ..and numerous buildings *• It lies on the eaAern bank of the Ganges^ about thirteen Dutch miles below Cbinfurab^ and nearly thirty from the mouth of the fiver at Ingellee^ The Ganges is here full as broad as before cur faétory, but it is much deeper, and na-* viable at all times for large fea-fhips. AH their fhips lie before the town, anchored clofc to the (hore, which is very fteep, owing to the rapid currents running in the middle of the river ; and the number of veflfels feen here continually paiHng and repafhng from 3(11 parts of India^ give Calcutta the appear* * In Holiand, every place that is not fortified, or walkd round, is called a Tillage ; hence the ridiculous aifertion £) frequently to be met with, that the Hapu is the largcft village ill Europe \ k is, in faéi, a brge and flouriihing town ; l^nicm W^^% ifi the iame OHuintr, be called avilli^. T* ance I 494 ï «ncc of what jt really is, a place of great wealth and commerce. The buildings of the place extend fiill three niiles along the river, and about half as much in breadth from it. There are many large ?nd handfbme edifices among them, which do not add a little to the beauty of the town. They would have a better effed, if they were built as regularly as at Batavia ; but little lymmetry or order has been obferved in laying out the ftreets. In the' middle of the city, a large opeo place has been left, in which there is a great tank or refervoir, covering upwards of twenty-five acres of ground. It was dug by order of the government, to provide the in» habitants of Calcutta with water, as in the dry {(safon the water of the Ganges becomes brackifh by the influx of the tide, while that in the tank is, on the contrary, very fweet and pleafant. * The number of Ipri^gs which it contains, make the water in it always nearly at the fame level. It i^ railed sound, no one may waih in it» but all are at liberty to take as much water from it as they like. Near this tank, is a ilone monument» ere^ecl r 495 ] ercQed in memory of thirtj Engfiih prï^ loners, both men and wommi^ who^ whea Calcutta was taken by the nabob SrxiijAH Dowi, AH, were flmt up in a narrow priibn^ without any refrefliment, and fuffixatcd for want offrelhair*. A little forthcr is the courthouie, ove^ which are two handibmc aflembly-rooms^ In one of th^fe are hung up the portraits of the king of France, and of the late queen, •s large as life, which were brought by the Snglifli from Cbandernagore^ when they toot that place, in the laft war« ♦ The reader need fcayely be informed, that this mutilated account relates to the well-knovtrn tragic eveat, at the retiiK> tioo ^SCdodiay of the (uffocatton of 193» out of 146 Eogliih fvübocn^ io the iMi Mtprifim. The fcene of tius liorrid tnM&ladioa has become proverbial among Eng)i0iiBen for% place of infufiFerable torment, and together with the infaumaa tyraAt, SoKAfAn D«vj.ah» by whofe order our couotryxpcn mtrt dewKed to^ thb cruel death, both ■■ " ■ ■ damned to everlafiing Cune^ caano^ be ■icnlioned' but with execration and horror. The monument,, which was erected by Mr« Hoiwsn, one of the few furvivofS, 9nd whofe narrative of his fufferings is in eveiy ^y^s hands^ k a faandfeme obelilk, aboot fifty feet high, in- ^chbeé with the nsmts of the peribns who died in the bbck- bole^ and whofe bodies were pronuTcuottfly thrQWJi« the ncxT pomin^ into the ditch of tl^e fca^. T. Clofe [ 496 ] Glofc to the courthoufc, ftands a theatre^ where plays are fometimes performed by amateurs. Higher up, is an Armenian church, which is a large and noble building, provided with a handfome fteeple. There was not, when I was there, zaf Englilh church ; but preparations were mak- ing for building one, and the neceflary mate* rials had been coUeded. On the fide of the open place, before mentioned, between it and the river, is the old fort, of which nothing remains at prefent but the walls* The new fort, which is called Fort H^il- Ham, and whence all the letters and refblu« tions of the prefidency are dated, is fitoated about a quarter of an hour*s walk from the eity, by the fide of the Ganges^ in an esten* iive plain. It was begun to be built in the year 1757, when the Englifh had regained poflfeffion of Calcutta. It is a regular pen- tagon, with feveral outworks. The ram- parts are built of brick, half way up, finifhed with clay, and faced with gazons. Both the body of the fortrefs and the out* works, are furrounded by a wet ditch, which ha^ t 497 ] iias a fmall cünette» of (ix or fêven feet deep, in the middle* The water from the Ganges^ can be let into the moat, to the height of eight feet, by means of floodgates, of which there are two to each outwork, conftruéled in fuch a manner, that if an enemy be matters of one, they cannot pre- vent, both the main ditch, and thofe of the other outworks, from retaining their water. If all the works were mounted with can- non, there would be room for fix hundred pieces of artillery. There are bombproof barracks built within the fort, for ten thoufand men. Permiflion has likewife been given to every inhabitant of Calcutta^ to build, if he choofe it, a houfe in the fort, provided it be equally bombproof; but in the year 1770, no one had yet felt any inclination to avail of this privilege. All the works are guarded by mines and countermines. No fhip can pafs up or down the Ganges without being expofed to the fire of this fort. No enemy can ap- proach by land, without being difcerned at three or four leagues' diftance. The plan of this fortification was made by VOL- I. K K an ^r f 49» J an enginöer, of the name of B^tER, wlia, for (bmcrealbn of difcontcnt, left the Englifit iervice, and entered into that of our Com* panj. Another engineer was afterwards lent out from England^ to finifh it. Clofe to the fort, the Englifh were about digging a dry dock» which will be the only one which the Europeans have in India. They were likewife bufy in conftruÖing two batteries of heavy cannon, on the banks of the rivcr^ about tiiw leagues below Cai^ €utta^ one on each fide. I was alfb told, that they intended to ereél one, at the confluence of the Old Ganges with Hougly river, in order to be wholly mafters of ^he navigation of the Ganges. This nation have thus fo firmly rooted themfclvcs in Bengal^ that, treachery ex- cepted, they have little to fear from an European enemy, efpecially as they can en-' tirely command the paflage up and down the river. If they ever lofe their power here, their fall will, in all probability, proceed from the heavy expences, which they fuftain, in keep- ing up fo important a military eftablifliment, and which they cannot do without, in order to [ 499 1 to keep the natives in fubjeflion, and prevent iniurreöions. By this means, however, they will, in time, exhauft the refources of the country, which appears the more hkely, if we further take into confideration the extortions of their fervants. Since the unfortunate iflue of our expe- dition to Bengal^ in 1759, the reputation of our countrymen has been on the decline; and we are obliged to be not a little dependent upon the Englifli, with refpedl to the piece- goods wanted for our cargoes, both for Ba* taviajznd for Holland. In the beginning of the government of the diredor V — , in the year 1765, or i766,Vhen Lord Clive was ftill in Bengaly every thing feemed to take a friendly aipcft, and arrangements refpefting trade were about to be made, to mutual fatisfadlion and advantage. Both thefe gentlemen came to an agreement, that aU the aurungs^ or weav- ing manufaöories, in Bengal^ (hould be num- bered, in order that a repartition might af- terwards be made of fo many aurungs to each nation, for the purpofe of weaving the goods they wanted ; and two commiflaries were appointed, to this end, relpetlively, by the Englifli, the Dutch, and the French, to go ic K 2 through [ 500 ] through the whole country, and afcertain the number of manufaöorics. From our fettlc- jnent, the firft warehoufckeeper, Ross, and a bookkeeper, were deputed for this purpofc* But thefe excellent arrangements were all broken, by the departure of Lord Cuvb from Bengal ; his lordfhip was fucceeded by Mr. Verelst, with whom the diredor V (hortly afterwards fell out, and their difagreement was carried to that pointy that upon paying the cuflomary annual national vifit to Calcutta^ Mr. V was treated in a moft improper and humiliating manner ; whence, in the end, fo great a breach arofc between thefe two chiefs, that the above arrangements were, much to our prejudice, entirely fet afide. The Englifh had equally, on their fides, much reaibn to be difcontented with Mr. V , as he had ufed his utmoft endea- vours to favour the French in all thbgs, notwithftanding they had no power to ren- der our Company any fervice, or even to help themfelves ; and the Englifh were much hurt at this condud, cfpecially at Mr. V —'s felling all the japan copper, which the Dutch (hips brought to Bengal^ to [ 501 ] to the French, without allowing them the opportunity of purchafing a fingle pounds for a confiderable time, although they offered a higher price than was obtained from the French. This was evidently, not only unfriendly, but wholly incompatible with the interefb of the Company ; which appears the more ilrongly, if we confider that, upon the leail; difference with the Moors, the council at Hougfy were obliged to have rccourfe to the mediation and protedion of the government at Calcutta^ as was the cafe, two or three» times, while I was in Bengal. ^x The Dutch began to trade in Bengal^ as «arly as the commencement of the laft cen- tury ; they were always the firfl in opu* knee and importance, till the Englifh be- came the rulers of the country, in the laft revolution ; and perhaps they would ftill have been fo, had the well planned, but badly executed attempt, made, as before- mentioned, during the adminiftration of the governor general Mossel, in 1759, fucceed- ed to our wifhes *. ^'"^— ^""^^'^" Our * The expedition alluded to, though formally difavowed \>y the Dutch governoienty upon it$ not fucceedidg, is here K K 3 pretty ( s« ] Ouf faftrry hcc, is fubordinatc tp the go- vernment at Batavia^ and receives orders from that place refpeding the managemeixt of the trade. It is from Bataviay liktjwife^ that all vacancies are filled up 5 the coua- cil of Hougly can only appoint ad inttTTm ; but the confiripation muft come from the; metropolis of India. Orders and letters are, 'however, received at Cbinfurab dired from Holland^ whither, likeM'ife, advices are annually difpatched. The government confifts of a dir^élor, and feven members, five of whom have concluding voices, and the other two may only advife, but not vote. There is^ befides, ji chief at CoJJitnbazar. The dircylor, who has, of courfe, the chief pretty i^If^rl^ ^cknowl^d^ tp liave been intended, iar the purpor$;of depriving the Englifti, of their fupcriority in Bemf^, T.h^y fent feven fhips, three of thirty-fix giinf, rhree of twcniy» £x, and one of fixteen, with about i,ioo'£urop» I the private purfes öf the roembcrt of the council of Hougly. On the ^bove occafion, the ladie$, who(è hofbands belonged to the fraternity, wore the infrgnia óf the order, hanging by a blue or red ribbon over the left fliouldcr. They are very fond of (hew- ing themfclves with this decoration, an J the women, whofe huftrands have not been ini- tiated, urge them very much to be {xb. Hmigfyy which lends its name to Chinju- raè, is a Moorifh fort, a fhort half an hour's walk higher up. It is not very dcfenfible» and has little worthy of obfervation within it, except the houfe of the faujdar^ and the fla- bles for his elephants. The faöory which the Company have at Patna^ in the province of Babar^ is efta- bliihed for the purchafe of faltpetre, and of opium. The chief there, who has the rank ^{ merchant, and has a junior merchant un- der him, is entitled to aflift at the delibera- tions of the council of Hougfy^ when he happens to be at Cbinfurab. This office is efleemed the moft lucrative, next to that of the diredlor. The faétory at Dacca^ was formerly of very little confidcration, but for thcfe laft three ( 519 ) three years the maau£iid:orIes have again been profecuted wkh vigour. The negled of them is (aid, to have been owing to the iin{>roper managemeat of a idire6iix)r3 who hzA his own private advantage in view, in fufiering them to be unnoticed by the Com* pany. Bemagore is a village which bekmgs t9 the Company, and» as at C&in/urab, the Dutch flag is hoifted, though they have no other of their fervants rcfident here, than an under-officer of the fifcal. It lies on the eaftern bank of the Ganges, ten or twelve leagues below tlbinfurab. The coarfeft forts of blue handkerchiefs are made here. The Company have a houfe, not far from the river, which fervcs for the temporary accommodation of iuch of their fervants, as land here, in going up or down the river. Bemagore is famous on account of the great number of ladies of pleafure, who refide there, and who pay a monthly recognition to the fifcal of Cbinfurah^ for the free exer- cife of their profeffion. The troops which the Company main- tjiiu in pengfil amount to no more than I. L 4 one [ 520 ] one hundred and fifty men, (commanded by a captain, two lieutenants, and an enfign «. ^ In 1776, and 1777, the vhole eftablilhment of the Dutch in BengéU was reduced to the following : vim. fixty-foar per* fons in civil| and two in ecclefiaftical, employ nncnts; fevea furgeons and affiftants, ten belonging to the artillery^ fixty nine feamen and marines^ and forty-eight foldicras bemg in aO ftoo Europeans. T. CHAP- [ 5" ] CHAPTER VII- Mamer cf Life of the Europeans. — Black Writers. •^Bariyans. — Domcftics. — Tbe Ladies. — Trade of the Company. — Duties paid to the Nabob.-^-Trade if the French. — Humiliating Conditions impojed Upon them at the laft Peace. — StriSly infijled upon by the Englijh. — Inflame hereof. — Defcription of Chakdernaoore. — Uoufe and Gardens of the Governor. — Factories up the Country. — Danifh Settlement at Serampore. — Eaftem Nations that refort to Bengal. — Concluding Reflexions on the State of the Country and Inhabitants. JcLUROPEANS lead, in Bengal, a very eafy life; the men, who are almoftallin the lervicc of the Company, devote a part of the morning to attending upon their bufinefs, and thofe who poflefs any the leaft fortune, keep a black writer in daily employment, at their houfes, for which he receives twenty or twenty-five rupees per month. Thefc black writers are defcendants of Portuguefe, who having married native women, their offspring have loft the colour of their fathers, and re- ceived that of their mothers ; but they, re- taia f 5« 3 tain the religion of the fonner^. They write a good hand, and copy Dutch very accurately, without underftanding a word of jt. The Europeans are eaiêd by them, of a great part of the little work they would otherwife ha\ne ta perform. The Europeans ipend the remainder of their time» either iu revels, or in fleep, though ibmetimes the latter can fcarcely be procured during the exceflive heats. Sefides thele black writers, moft Euro- 7)eans have alio one or two banyans» who note down all payments and receipts, and through whofe hands all pecuniary Qiatters go, as well in buying as in felling, Thfy fcrve, in this capacity, without any fixed pay, but they know how much more they may charge upon every rupee, than tliey h»ve i» reality paid, q^nd this is called ca^um^^ Moorilh domeftics are kept for the menial fervices of the houfe, and peimx to run before the palankeens, and to carry an umbrella, or parafol, over the head of their mailer, when be goes out. Every houfe has likcwifc a porter, whoie Ible occirpation is to anfwer the door ; and <^ They arc what wc call 7V-!^/. T. one C 5^3 1 one or two fcts of terras^ or pulaokeen^ bearers, together with a barrymaidy or /m- taranu who carries out the dirt ; and a great number of (laves, b<^ male and female* This mode of life naturally occafions an enormous expenditure. The leaft in rank ftand in need of five or fix thoufand rupees annually, and even then they muft praftice economy. Moft people ipend twice as much, although their income does not amount to more than half of what they difburle. The dearnefs of provifions which are brought from Europe, contribtrtes hereto; but perhkpsthe greateftcaufe may be traced in the excefiive expence which the ladies incur, in the articles of drels and appearance^ Domeftic peace and tranquillity muft be purchafed, by a fliowcr of jewels, a wardrobe of the richeft clothes, and a kingly parade of plate upon the (ideboard ; the huiband muft give aH theie, or, according to a vulgar phrafe, " the houfe would be too hot to hold him,** while the wife never pays the leaft attention to her domeftic concerns, but fulFers the whole to depend upon her fervants or flaves. The women generally rife between eight and nine o'clock. The forenoon is ipent in paying [ SH 3 paying vifïts to their friends, or in lolling upon a fofa, with their arms acrofs. Din* ner is ready at half paft one; they go to fleep till half paft four or five ; they then drels in form ; and the evening and part of the night is ipet>t in company, or at dancing parties, which are frequent, during the colder feafbu. Both men and women generally drefs in the Englilh ftyle. The ladies afFedl, for coolnefs, to wear no covering on their neclcs, and leave none of the beauties of a well- formed bofom to be gueflcd at. They arc friendly and jiffable towards ftrangers, and certainly do not deferve to be called either coy, or cruel. They are fond of parties of pleafurc, which are frequently made both upon the delightful banks, and upon the pleafant waves, of the Ganges. Yet thefe, and all other amufements, are here pec»- liarly expenfive. The commerce of the Company in this country was formerly very profitable ; but for fome years back, it has greatly declined, which is, undoubtedly, in a great meafure, afcribable to the encreafing influence and power of the Englifti, and their confequent preponderance in affairs of trade ; I fay, however, [ s^s ] however, in a great meafure, becaufe I think I am pretty well informed, that a want of fidelity in the Company's fervants, has not a little contributed to leffen the profits. The goods which are imported from Batavia^ and which cannot be brought hither by any other nation than the Dutch, are (pices, and Japan copper, in bars ; this laft affords the greatefl benefit, fine e it is an article that cannot here be difpenfed with. The profits, however, upon the fale of thefe and other goods, do not cover one-half of the expences of the eftablifhment, which amount to full fix tons of gold *• The * About 54,500/. ftcrling. This fcems to be taken at ran* dom; for the flatement of Mossbl, in 1755, makes the charges of the Dutch fettlements in Bengal^ amount to/.402,5oo, about 36,600/. In 1779, however, they were no more than /.a65,5i7, and the profits upon the merchandize fold were ƒ 385,159» fo that, inftead of lofing, the Company gained ƒ.1 19,642, or nearly i i,ooo/. But they both maintained, as we have before feen, a lefs extenfive military eüablifliment ^ and in former times, their direiElion, in Bengal^ mufl have been flagrantly bad 5 for we find the following fevere reflexions, * in a letter written many years before from Batavia^ among the papers annexed to the Suret Confiderations on the State of Indiay by Mossel : ** For a ferics of years, a fucceflion of directors ^ here, have been guilty of the greateft enormities, and the *' foulefl difhonefly ; they have looked upon the Company's " effens Tbe I<^ 9f anchors tnd caUes, by üm Company's Aips» in tlië GangUf k cal- culated «^ effefts conSded to thcoif M a booty thrown opeo to thctr ^ depredations; they havo moft fliamefully and arbttnrilf * fiilfificd the inToice^priccs ; they have violated» in the moft *■ difgracelvl xaannori all our orden and reguktion^ with ir* ^ fvd to the pnrohafe of foods» without payiif the leaft at* ^ tention to their oaths and duty | we will not add» that the M whole of the Company's profits upon the filver, have been ^ einbefided> but they have not» foa ftiany years> been ^ ibnhcoim^.'* If a itform have finte taken place» we need not wonder at the jft$X diSerence above obferved, between ■ the accounts drawn up by Mossii» and thofe of later years. The profits upon the piecegoods and raw filk fold in Europei are not inconfideinble; in lyyt, were (bU the value of y!a»ooo9poo in piecegoods» and the value of /.joOyOoo in raw filk, befides two millions pounds weight of faltpetre ; and fif- teen to twenty per cept is the calculated gain, after deduélioa of the ihips* charges, upon all three articles. If all other branches were to £ul» the optum-tnKle to Batavia would be alone fufficient to render the comiAerce of the Dutch in Btnga!, a fource of gieat profit. Mossel calculated the annual gala upon this article at ƒ 800,000 ; but fince his time» che trade has confiderably flackened, and we may fay» that the advance upon it» amounts now to no more than /'•5» or y.6oO|O00* About 800 boxes» containing 125/^. each» of this drug, go an« nually from Btitial to Batmna ; they fiand the Company» in* eluding freight» infurance» and other charges, in about ƒ.793 each ; and if fold» as in 1783» for/. 1383. 5* o» the advance to the Company, upon the whole 800 boxes» will be f[>und to be /.47a,9ao, befides the duties at Batavia^ upon the exportation to the neighbouring firttlements» which make it amount, a» abovelaid, culated to amouoti^Cto /•3o,ooo every year *. The (hip that fails annually from Amfier* Jam for Bengal^ brings iron, cutlery, wool-* lens, and other European goods, which have a tolerable vent* The Company, like- wife, gain confiderably^ upon the filver in bullion, which is imported, and is recoined into rupees. The money which is required for the pur- pofes of trade every year here, is eftimated at forty or fifty tons of gold -j-, the largefl: part of which is deftined for the jpurchafe of return cargoes for Europe, and the remainder for Batavia. Thofe which went to Holland in the year 1768, amounted, per invoices, 10^12,649,510. ij. o, and confided in piece-- goods, raw filk, and faltpetre for ballaft. Two or more fliips, which go annually to Java^ take piecegoods, opium, and laltpetre i of the latter article, the largeft part is re- aboveiaid» to between /.j and ƒ 6oo,ooO| or about 5o»ooo/. iteriing. All the opium is difpofed of to the fociety ellabliih* ed at Satav-Uj in 1 745, for this trade, of which a particuhr ac- count has been given, page 395 of this volume* ^71 * About 4,725/. fterling. T. t Between 3501000/. and 4$OyO0Ó/. lUrliag. 71 fhipped [ 5*8 3 fhipped for Holland ; and gunpowder is ma* nufadured of the remainder, at Batavia. Befides the yearly prelents, which arc given to the Moorifli government, to the amount of about ten thoufand gilders, the Company pay certain duties, to the nabobt upon ail the goods which are either carried up the river from Hougly^ or are received there from above. Much mifunderfianding arofe, in Oftober, 1769, from the non-pay- ment of thclc dues, which was of great pre- judice to the Company, and was only accom* modated by the interpofition of the Engliflu The trade of the French here, has, fincc the laft war, been greatly on the decline. Their fettlement and fort of Cbandemagore^ were then wholly deftroyed by the Englifh. At the peace which followed, it was con* ditioned, that the fort fhould not be rebuilt, nor fhould they be allowed to fortify them- felves in any way, nor even to hoift their flag, as the other nations did, at their faöo- ries, upon a lofty enfignflafF, but only upon a bamboo-pole. The Englifli are very ftriö on thefe points, and are very careful that the French do not infringe thefe conditions in the leaft. It was not long ago, that they enforced [ 529 ] enforced tbéir right in this refpe^l, without any ceremony. Mr. Chevalier, the French governor, had caufed a deep ditch to be dug round Cbandernagore^ with faliant angles, at inter- vals, and the earth thrown up inwards, fo that it had the appearance of a rampart, or intrenchment. He alleged, that this work was only intended to keep the place dry, and was undertaken with no other view than to drain the water from the circum- jacent country, and convey it into the river* However, when the Englifh council of Ctf/- cutta were informed hereof, they looked upon it in a very different light, and they immediately bad the work privately furvey- cd, by one of their engineers, who himfelf related this circumftance to me, and he re- ported, that it appeared to be made for very different purpofes, than thofe that were pre- tended. Upon this, they fent word to the French governor, that he muft flop the pro- fecution of the work, and deftroy as much of it, as had already been finiflied ; for, if his fole purpoie were that of draining oflF the water, it was unneceifary to dig fb deep ; that his ditch was deeper than the low water VOL. I. MM mark [ 530 ] mark of the Ganges ; that the ialiant angles were needlefs ; that the earth ought oot to have been thrown up inwards, like an in* trenchment ; and, finally, that if he did not cboofe to do it himfelf, they would be obligwl to have the ditch filled up again, by their own workmen. A few days afterwards» they put this threat in execution, and fent the engineer, and eight hundred Jipsbis^ or Moorifh foldiers, to Cbandernagore^ who filled up the ditch, and reflored the whole to it% former level and defencelefs condition. However painful this was to the feelingt of Mr. Chevalier, he was compelled to fubmit to it, being without any means of refifting the will of thefe haughty opprefibrs. The French are only allowed a certain finall number of cannon, for faluting ; if they were to contravene this regulation, their fuper- numerary artillery would fbon be taken away by the Engli(h. Cbandernagore is fituated on the weftcrn bank of the Ganges^ fbmething lefs than an hour's walk below Cbinfurahj in north latitude 22^ 51^ and in time 5^ 44' 37^' eaft of the meridian of Paris, accord- ing to the Connoijfance des Temps. It is built, * about [ 531 ] s^ut si mile in langth^ alojig tfee GaMgis, in a fir^tght line, with two par^lleU and iêver^. crof8,'ftre«t^ behind it, which have foro© good buildings* The ruins of the fort> demoliih?(J by the EngUfli, are at the north end of the? place, and fulScientlj deiiionilr^te its ftfrnipF flrength. It could not, however» withft^nd the heavy fire of the Englift (hip? of war, ivhich battered it, and redyced jt in a fhoft time to a heap of ruin^ *. The prefcnt governor ha? buiU a hand-r feme houfe, and laid out a,n ejegant garden, about four miles below Qb§ndern(igor€^ where there is a moft charrpii^g profpeót along the Ganges. They have, likewife, feveral fadories np the country ; at CaJJimbazar^ Dacca^ Mald^^ Patna^ and other places ; yet their trade 19 very inconfiderable in comparifon with our*s, or that of the Englifh. Their Ihips come up the river, as far as Cbandernagort^ where there is a fufficient depth of water for them. The Danish Company have their fcttler ment at Serampore^ halfway between Ca!^' futfa and Chinjurab^ being on the wefter» * It is almod needlefs to add, that both CbanJemagorc and Omfwrabf ar« now in ti^ hands of the EngU^ T, . M M Z fide [ 53* ) fide of the GangeJ. This place is of Iitde confideration. It confifts of a few houics of Europeans, and a fmall Bengalefe village. The trade of the Danes is more circum* (bribed than that of any other nation. Thcj receive only one or two (hips every year from Europe, and they have no country-trade whatever. While I was in Bengal^ their direöor, or governor, left their fa€torj, taking with him, as was faid, three lacks of rupees, or four hundred and fifty thoufand gilders, with which he went to the Englüh» in order to take his paflage to England. Ill the lad place, feveral of the eafteni nations, Perfians, Armenians, and others, refbrt to Bengal^ allured by the advantageous trade, which they are enabled to purine there. In effedl, the land is, in very many re« fpe£ls, excellently calculated for an exten* five commerce. If we call to mind the cir- cumftances of former times, what trealures have not the goods brought to Europe, pror duced to the feveral Companies ! and what advantages may not ftill be drawn from a country, excelling moft others in fertility, and where, fo many articles neceilary, and even [ 533 ] even ituiirpeniable in others, arc produced^ or received from the neighbouring and otherwife inaccefliblé regions ! But let us attentively confider all the fons of n^en» all the nations of the globe, and we ihall fpeedily perceive, that nothing is more inimical to the aélivity of genius, to the exer-. tions of courage, nay even to the prefcrva- tion of corporeal health, and the cncreafe of population, than injuftice, injury, and extor- tion, the infeparable and difaftrous confe- quences of violence and tyranny I What can caft a greater damp upon both induftry and emulation, than the arbitrary meafures of a defpotic government ! How much more ingenious, how much more diligent, how much more happy, would this people be» if, inftead of being oppreffed and kept under, they were encouraged and fupported, and opportunities afforded them of improving themfclves, both in their very excellent ma- nufactures, and in the tillage of their happy foil ! Is it an incitement to them to be ac- tive and induilrious, that they are forced to labour their whole lives, for an inconfider- able reward ; a trifle, that fcarcely fuffices to procure the ncceffary food for themfclves M M 3 and C 5J+ ] aAd th^ir fatnilies ? Is it an kdditiöital fpor to indaftry^ that they are treated with Coo- tempt and derifion, and thit th&y i^t «XfMftë to pcrlbnll abufe and injufy ? Bdfdts, to what dó the advanlAléè inretlity «moiant^ which are derived from the Ubour and fweit of ihefe wretched Iftdiattt ? Thèy are little better than ideaL Th* lar^ jmv fits which arb röceived^ a^ it were, with oftt htods and J)atd away ^itti the other^ «w* *Ht^ dutóly dimihifliêd, ahd beCottte, frofti dat t6 dhy, left 'pbrc*f)tiMe in Xht coffets ^ the BOOK i ^1^^ or BadgerL I I fkUU^ mtme^éa éteeif OeiT, i%t.& ^^«^ S ovUhLatiJbudjtf t 535 1 BOOK iV. OBSERVATIONS RESPECTING THE CAPE OF GOOn HOPE. CHAPTER I. Cape of Good Hope. — Sandhill Point. — Taile Bay.— RoBBEn IJland.—TbeTabU Valley. ~Li and i,20p leagers of wine. Since ihtCape fell into the hands of the £ngU(h, in September, 1 795, many car- goes of wheat have been brought thence, to this country. Tm * See the further corrected ftatements of Mr. Stavori- NUs on this head, in the xoth chapter of the fecond book^ of the 3d volume* f A leager is nearly four awms, and an awm contains about fpny Englifh gallons* VOL. I. N N vineyards I 546 ] vincyards'of Confiantia ; this deliciaus ip?ine cannot be produced any where elfe. They Ik behind the Ttf^/?-Mountain, towards FéÊlfo Bay, and do not cover much more than fortj- acres of ground. The wine is prefled from the mufcadel-grape, which is let hang till quite ripe, the found grapes are then culled out from the rotten ones, and are alone prcff- ed. The vintage is made in the month of March. All kinds of fruit are likewife to be met Ivith here, as well fuch as are indigenous of the ólimate, as fuch as are natives of Europe; currants, however, excepted, of which I law none. Peaches and apricots are produced in abundance, but they did hot fecm to me to poffefs fo fine a flavour as thofe of our own growth. CHAP. [ 547 ] CHAPTER «. ^be HMeiUots. — T^htir Appearance. — De/cription of Capetown. — The Hcufes. — R'ver. — Church. — TcwnhaU. -r- Hofpital. — Its ill ConfiruSion. — Bad Treatment of the Sick. — Public Library.-^ Cajile. — Fortifications. — Company* s Garden. — Afe- nagery. — Aviary* — Other Gardens helongtngto the Company. jL he native inhabitants of the country are the Hottentots ; but they are, at prefcnt, for the moil part, rernoved to a great diflance from the Cape. They dwell together in villages, called irWj*, and are under a chief, whom, they eleft. themfelves, ^nd who has the title of captain. The governor of the Cape con- firms his nomination, and prefents.him, as a token of his dignity, with a cane, upon which there is a large brafs head, with the ufual mark of the Company engraved upon it. They are very proud of this mark of diftindlion, and fo tenacious of it, that they will lofe their lives in defence of it. ^ The Hottentots often hire themfelves, for N N a v^rj ' [ 548 ] very trifling wages, as faerdfrneii to the farmers, or for other work. The few whom I faw cf this nation, were of a mo- derate flature, not corpulent, but of a coarfe make, and a dark brown colour. They have large eyes, a flat nofe, and thick lips. They have thick and black curling hair upon their heads, like the negroes, up- on which they fmear all kinds of greaiy dirt, and make it one clotted lump of filth. Their teeth are fmall, and as white as fiiow. They have no other drefs, than ^ raw fheepj(kin> >vhich is thrown over the ihpul- ders ; in the warm feafon they wear the woolly fide outwards, and turn it infide when the cold months come on. The parts which moft nations agree to conceal, are worn by the men in a cylindrical cafè,which is tied round the waift. The women, who are fomewhat lefs coarfejy made, but ftill extremely unlovely, wear a fmall fquare piece of cloth, for the fame purpofb. The town of the Cape lies at the foot of the LiofCs-tail^ and of ST^i/f- Mountain. It is oblong in fhape, and it is interfered by fe- vcral flreets, crofling each other at right angles, though they in fad do not deferve that [ 549 ] that name, being all unpaved» and not at all level, the natural unevennefs of the ground having been left unaltered. When I was the laft time at the Cape^ however, ,1 was told, that they were going to be duly paved, and levelled. They are very broad, and af- ford fufficient room for two carts, with fix- teen or twenty oxen yoked to themji to give way to each other, with great eafe. As I guefs, there are, at prefent, full five hundred houfes, but they are almoft all of but a fingle ftory, and thatched with ftraw, or reed, inftead of being tiled, becaufb of the violent and fiidden gufts of wind, to which they are continually expofed. They are, for the moft part, whitened on the outfides, with lime, which is burnt here from Clones fetched from Saldanba-^Bdiy. Within, they have a ipacious hall, with roomy apart- ments on each fide, behind which there is a large chamber, to which they give the name of the gallery. The little river, which gufhes down from the Tj^/(?-Mountain, runs through a large plain, to the fouth of the town, in a canals lined and faced with brick, which is adorned, on each fide, with fbme of the handibmeft N N 3 buildings [ 550 ] buildings of the country, and a row of (faadj trees ; it is called the Heeren^gragtj or Gen- i\' /,y^;.^^. tlemarCs'Canal. - C^4.JUL ^^<- v Upon this [dain, there are two fountains, which play conftantly, though they may be flopped by large brafs cocks; the inhabitants» at)d the ihips, are fupplied with. water from them. The church ftands upon the Heeren-gragt^ and has four fronts, each embelliihed with a portico. It is of an oöagon form within. The roof is fupported by pillars, againft which the pews of the governor, and other fei-vants of the Company, are placed, ac- cording to their rank. It has a pretty good organ. The little fpire which arofc from it, was heightened, when I was laft at the Cape. The townhall, which makes a tolerably handfome appearance on the outiide, ftands upon a large open place, oppofite to the town. The Company's hofpital is fituated ob- liquely, oppofite to the church. . It is built in the form of a crofs, and being inclofed amidft other hwildings, it is without a moft n^ceflary advantage for fucb an inftitutioa, ^ ^amel/i [ SSI 3 namely, a free circulatfon of air. It has be- , fides a very low roof, and is much too fmall for the numerous fick, brought to the Cape by the Company's (hips. At its firft efta- blifhment, it was only made for the accom- modation of five or fix hundred patients : whereas it is now fometimes crouded with more than a thoufand. This caufes a con- tinued and difagreeable fmell in the build- ing, by which it does not unfrequently hap- pen, that together with the fick which are returned on board of Ihips from the holpital, a contagious difeafe is conveyed to the crew, which carries off a great number. The provifions which are given to the pa- tients are very good; but the ueceflary at- tendance is wholly wanting, as well as Ikil- ful pra6litioncrs. If any thing of the Com- pany's affairs ever required a reform, it is the hofpital at the Cape^ not only with re- gard to the edifice itfelf, but likewife, and chiefly, with refpeft to the condud of it. The wretched failors, do not only run the danger of lofing their lives, or ruining their conftitutions, in this abode of flench and filth, but their wages arc likewife withheld during the time they remain in the hofpital, N N 4 and C SS^ ] aticl the money goes to the iaftitutioiiy be- caufe, forfboth, they do no fcrvice while they are fick, and arc neverthelefs provided with vjöuals and drink *. Not far from the church, ftands a build- ing, which is embelliflied with the proud title of Bibliotbeca Publica. Very few good works are to be met with, among the few books it does contain ; being in this rcfpeö perfeóUy fimilar to that at Batavia^ which is equally decorated with the fame high- ibunding title. It is the fcxton of the church who is Bibliotbecarius. The caftle of the Capey is a regular pen* tagon ; it ftands ibutheaft from the town, about 800 feet, and about 330 from the feafhore. On this fide it is covered by a large outwork, and by a ravelin at the gate which leads to the town. The baftions and curtains are built of hard rock-ftone, and arc about fourteen or fifteen feet high. With- in, it has roomy dwelling-houfes for the go- vernor, and other of the Company's fcr- * In November, x772,the foundation was laid, by Governor Van PLETTENBERCy of a new hofphali on a larger fcalci and in ^ more convenient £tuation, at the eaft end of the towO} between 7^^/if- Mountain and the citadel. T. vants. C 553 1 Vants. They, however, do not make ule of them, but live in the town, the military com- mander excepted, who is obliged to refide in the fort. A large Ipace is left between the buildings. One particular deferves notice, namely ,the dangerous lituationof the powder- magazine, which, is built againft the fur- nace, or kitchen, of the governor, though it is feparated from it by a thick wall of ma- fonry. Southeaft from the caftle, along the beach, a line is drawn, at the end of which there is a fmall fort, which was not finiflied, when I was there, and upon which twenty-fix pieces of cannon could be mounted. At the other fide of the town, near Sandhill* Pointy there is likewife a large battery, to which the name of the water-fort has been given. All thefe fortifications ferve for the de- fence of the road, and to prevent a landing here ; but no one, who has any experience in war, would attempt it at this place. Behind the town, on the acclivity of Tir^/^- Mountain, is the Company's garden, an oblong- fquare piece of ground, of about fixty acres. Its breadth is fcarcely one» fixtb [ 554 ] fixth part of the length. The ground rifes gradually to the end of the garden^ though the afcent is fcarcely perceptible in walking. The foil is clayey and ftony, yet it is con- tmually ameliorated by roanure, and freih and good earth. Lengthwife» the garden has five w^lks, which lead in ftraight lines upwards. The middle one' is the broadeft» s^nd is planted with oak-trees, which, though they are not very large, afford a very agree- ably (hade by their thick foliage, uniting overhead. The other walks are equally planted with oak-trees, hut they arc cut like hedges. Thefe are interfered by eleven crofi walks, which are planted with bay * and myrtle-trees. By this means, the garden is divided into forty-four fquares, in which many forts of fruit-trees, and all kinds of vegetables, are grown J fcrving chiefly to afford refrefli- ments to the crews of the fhips, that touch here. The whole is watered by the little rivulet, which nins down from the Ttf^^- Mountain. It is condudtcd, out of the canal mentioned before. [ 5^5 ] , before, to the garden, and then through numerous little channels to every bed. At the eaft fide of the garden, about the middle, there is a handfome fummerhoufe, for the recreation of the governor. There is alfo a menagery, which is furrounded by high walls, except on the fide of the garden, where an iron railing admits the view of the animals that are confined in it. Thefe are, harts *, elks -f , zebras J, oftriches, caflb- waries, and many others. By the fide of the menagery is an aviary, which contains moft of the birds, to be met with in the country, which can be kept. The garden is open, for the recreation of the public, till an hour after funfet, when the gate is clofed. It ufed formerly to be open till late at night, but much abufc being made hereof, it was prohibited. No one may gather any fruits, or damage any of the produftions, upon very heavy penalties. A number of attendants and flaves are continually at hand, to keep Watch that no harm be done. * Cafira dorcas» f Ca^ra wyx, X ^f <^<^ xeha. Before, f «6 1 Before the garden is the gardener's lodge, and next to it a building, in which the Qotór pany*s flaves are locked up at night. Befides this the Company, have two other gardens, on the acclivity of the Drt'/z'sMoun- tain, one of which is called New/andj and the other èet Ronde Bofcbj (the round grove) ; both of them are adorned with fhady walks, and planted with a great number of fruit- trees. In the.firft, I faw a (landing apricot- tree, which was fb large, and had fpread its branches fb wide, that more than twenty men could be fheltered under them, and it produced very good fruit, at the lame time. The governor, and the next in command, live here, from time to time ; and vtty good dwellinghoufes have been ereöed for them. It is a great pity that thefe plealant country- feats, arc fo fubjeól to the violent attacks of the furious foutheaft winds which conti- nually fweep down from the mountain. CHAP. [ 5S7 } CHAPTER JII. I Animals. — Horfes — Oxen. — Cows. — Sheep. — lVil4 Aiitnals. '. — Zebras — Ofiriches. — Sea-cowsj-^ Qame.—FiJh.^lnJeSs. HE horfes^ which are met with here^ are fmaller than in Europe, but they are inde* fatigable in running. Some of them are cafy faddle-horfes, but many are very reftivc and uneafy. Oxen are made ufe of, both for the pui-- pofes of hufbandry, and to draw loaded wag- gons; from fix to twenty of them, are yoked, two and two, and are commonly under the guidance of a Hottentot, and governed by a long whip. The cows here do not give fo much milk as in Holland ; it is likewife fiippofed to be acrimonious and unwholefome. They arc alfo fmaller ; and fuch as are, now and then,' brought from Europe, are cfteemed much more than thofe bred in the country. 3heep * are in great plenty. They gre, * OvtslaikoMda. in t J58 3 in gencraU larger, and their flefh is full as well-tafted as in Europe. The tail, which confifts of pure fat, weighs five, and fbme- times more, pounds. Their (kins are not covered with wool, but with a fort of hair, which is not very fine. Sheep are likewife met with, which are brought from Holland, and propagate equally "with the others, but they are not fo abundant. The wild animals, which are found in the country, and among which the lion, the tiger, the leopard, the buffalo, and the ape, arc enumerated, are now far removed from the Capt^ and are feldom feen near it. The wolf * only, at times, commits fome nodur* nal depredations* ^^-^ va^t- Zebras are fometimes caught alive,brought to the Cafe^ and tamed, I faw one in the Company's menagery. This animal has much analogy, in (hape, with the common afs, but is much larger. It is ftriped with plain brown and white ftripes, of about two inches broad, terminating under the belly,, which is whitifh. The head is likewife ilriped, but with narrower lines. Althoi^h * Bj^cnu fMtoèbua^ it cnnina. it C 559 3 it be in a manner tamed, it is always very mifchicvous, and bites, or kicks, at whatever / other animal comes near it. Oftriches are like wife met with here. Ka\v.-' Their eggs are bought for two or three ftivers apiece ; they are very good, fried, or in paftry, and very convenient to take with one, on a journey : one of them contains as much as twenty hen*s eggs. The birds which I faw, were about four feet high, with ftrong and thick legs, and ftumps inftead of wings ; they carry their head and long neck upright. The male is much handfomer than the female ; the latter is covered with an ugly kind of light brown hair, and thin feathers ; but the feathers of the male are black, and>much handfoiper,.and more glofly. Sea-cows * are fometimes met with in the rivers ; but I faw none. I eat, however, of the fle(h of one, which the governor affured me, had weighed more than two tbouland pounds. The meat, and efpecially the fat, is very tafteful, and does not at all dilagree with the ftomach, however heartily one eats * Sea-cow IS the deoomination given by the oolonifis at the Cape, to the Bifpofotamns^ or rivcx-horfe. T. of [ s6o ] of it: if not told boforehand. It might b^ taken for beef. There is no want of game here ; Jleen^ boh ♦, hares -f*, fnipes $, and otl^ers, arc in great plenty ; the firftmentioned, are ycvy £iie eating» and are efteemed the befl game. The iea yields an incredible quantity of fifh, for the confumption of the Cape. The Hottentot-rfifh, which i3 like a fea-bream» i$ daily brought to market, in great plenty. The Rooman-^^y which \% not unlike the former» only fomething bigger, is one of the moft delicious that is caught i it is covered with light red fcales. Soles and rays are alio abundantt When we were iailing from i^p^^m-Iiland to the road of the Cape^ we met a very large fifli, floating upon its back, with its belly blown up, fo that it appeared five feet above the water. It pafled us within a fhip's length, and appeared to be twenty feet in length. The opportunity would not allow of our hoifting out a boat, or I (hould cer- tainly have endeavoured to have made my- ftlf matter of it. * .Cafra grimmiom f Ltpn$ capwfis, et ccmMunis. X ScoUpax cafinfis. Many L S6i ] Many infeös peculiar to warm countries, arc found here. In particular, the inhabi- tants are much tormented by flies, of which there are incredible quantities. In the Riet^ ^12//?/ (valley of reeds), about three Dutch miles from the Cape, I faw locufts of all colours, full four, inches in length, and one ; in thicknefs. There are likewife fcorpions, fplders, and , centipedes. Of the laft, there are fome that arc four inches in length ; but it is very fel- dom^ that any one is heard to have been ftung by them. fOL. I, 00 -C^JAP- I 562 ] CHAPTER IV. Firfi Settlement of' the Colony. — Extenficn cf is h French Refugees. — Colonifts in the Country. — ft- habitantsoftbe Town. — fVomen. — Men. — Drefs,— CbaraSIer. — TheirTrade. — Lodgingof Slrangersr- Cbeapiefs of Provificns. — Dijlempers. — TbeSmH- fox — Degrees of Heat. — Barometer. — Tides.— Coins. — Government-^Tbe Governor. — Cmaaltf Polity. — Council of Jujlice. -^ Pumfiments.-' tirofis. — Oergymen^-^Trcops and Militia. Although the Portugucfc, the Dutch, and other nations, navigating to India, fre- quently touched at this fouthern extremitj ot Africa, to rcfrcfli themfelves in 7tf^/f-Bay, as a tolerably fafe harbour ; yet none of them endeavoured to fecure a durable eftablifli- | ment here, till the year 1652. About that time, the direftors of our £ail-India Com- pany, though fit, upon the inftigation ofoxic Van Riebeek, furgeon of one of their ihips, to eftablifh a permanent fettlement, for a place of refrefliment for their veflcls, at the Cape of Good Hope. For that purpofc they fent Van Riebeek, with four (hips, ' r^^ . laden ï 5^3 ] laden with the neceffary materials, imple- ments, and pfövifions, to found a colony at this promontory. At firft, he only built ^ fort of wood and earth, to which he gave the name of Keer de Kou (a defence againft cold), adding a few other buildings wanted for his people, and to hold the goods» This colony has, in fadt, extremely well anfwered the intent with which it was fet- tled, and has encreafed fb much fince that time, that it may now be efteemed one oF the moft indilpenfablc pofleffions of the Company. A number of refugees from France, who were obliged to leave that country, in 1685, on account of their religion, did not a little contribute to the extenfion-öf the fettlemcnt. Although they met with an afylura in our tepublrc, they did not, all of them, find fuffi* cient means of fupport ; many, therefore, emigrated again to this country, in order to exert theif induftry, in the cultivation of thofe fertile trafts. Which lay here untilled , andfcarcely noticed. To facilitate this to tliem, the Company direfted, that the im- plements of hulbandry, cattle, and other neceflaries, (hould be delivered to them, 002 upon C 564 ] upon coiuUtioa that their v^ue ihould be t> paid, at the end of four yearè. Two-thinis of the farmers that live in the country, bear names wbigh prove their French origin* Among others, there are a great many of the names of Vili-iers and Retif. .The fruitfulnefs of the wooien in this healthy cliaiate, where few, have leis than fix, and many, more than ten or twelve chil- dren, has occafioned, and Aill occafions, the continual extenfion of the colony inland; 6) that, as I hav.e been informed by people well worthy of credit, there are farmers who live ^ the difbmce of two hundred Dutch mile^ from the town, and ftand ia need of a month's time, to travel, with their teaniis of oxen, to the Cape. There are ncigny of them who. have never been at the fettlement, and never go out of the diftrift in which they dwell, contenting themfelves with what the country affords, and liviqg a p^^triarchal life, free fronj care, difquiet, and diicafc» The inhabitants of the town^ bot^ njeo and wom?n, look frefli and healthy. They are well-proportioned^ and ^ong the l^es,