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About Google Book Search Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web at |http : //books . google . com/ Digitized by Google "1 Digitized by Google Digitized by Google Digitized by Google VOYAGES TO THE EAST-INDIES', BY THE LATE JOHN SPLINTER STAVORINUS, ESQ^ REAR ADMIRAL IN THE SERVICE OF THE STATES-GENERAL. Tranflated from the original Dutch, By SAMUEL HULL WILCOCKE. WITH NOTES AND ADDITIONS BY TtfË TRANSLATOR. Tlie Whole comprifing a full and accurate Account of all the prefent and late Pofleffions of the Dutch in India, and at the Cape of Good Hope. ILLUSTRATED WITH MAPS. IN THREE VOLUMES. VOL. y, CONTAINING T A VOYAGE TO THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, BATAVIA, SAMARANG^ MACASSER, AMBOYNA, AND SURAT, WITH ACCOUNTS OF THOSE FLACE9 j IN THE YEXrS 1 774 AND 1775. LONDON: «RJNTED FOR G. G, ANIV J. ROBINSON, PATER- NOSTER-ROW. Digitized by Google / Digitized by Google VOYAGE TO tHB CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, BATAVIA, SAMARANG, MACASSER, AMBOYNA, SURAT, &c. IN THE YEAILS 1774—1778^ BOOK I. CHAPTER L Departure from Zealahp. — HI State of Health of the Crew. — Management with Regard to the Sick. — View of the IJland Madeira. — Some Particu- lars refpeSling two of the Crew who died* — View of the Iflands Sal. — Bonavista. — ^Mayo.-— St. Jago. — Anchorage in Porto Praya.— Defcription of the Harbour. — Of the Town. — Defolate Condition of the Cape Verde Iflands. ^ — yi/lt to the Governor, and Vice-governor. -•^Departure from St. Jago. — RefleStions on the Allowances of Water at Sea. -— PaJJage of the Line. — Account of fofne Sea-birds.-'^ Dreadful Storms. — Signs of Land.^^Make the Land of Africa. — Tremendous Hurricane.'^Con^ tinned bad JVeatber. — Twice driven off the Coafi. -^Anchorage in False Bay, — Account of the VOL. II. B iay. — Digitized by Google [ ^ ] m Bay.—Ofibe Cmpaky's EuMHgs.-^Two Englijb, and me Frencby Ships found here. — Mijunderftand-^ ing between the Government^ and the French Cap- tain. — How fettled. — Complaints at the Cape of the French. yjN the^th of March, 1 774, tJ^e wind having changed to e.n.e. I left Middleburgb in the morning, in company with the junior mer- chant. Van der Stengh, and the under comptroller of equipment, Duifvoet, for Rammekensy where my ihip, the Ouwerkerk^ lay at anchor. As foon as we were on board, we fent for the pilot, and the m after of the Com- pany's pilot- hoy I who thinking the oppor- tunity for failing a favourable one, we weighed anchor at ten o'clock, and fet iail. Prcfcntly after, the pilot-hoy, by bad ma- nagement, run athwart our bow, fo that we were in great danger of doing, or rcceiviflg, damage, or of l>eing forced aground, upon the flat called the kloot^ or ball. Fortunately, Tiowever, we got away from each other, without either of us receiving any damage of confide ration. In the mean tim'e, it was reported to me. Digitized by Google [ 3 1 me, that the furgeon of the ihip, who had been veiy ill for feme days, was upon the point of debthy which made me determine upon propofing to the under comptroller of equipment, to caft anchor before Flujhing^ inftead 6f proceeding to the place called the Pirf, or Pit; the more fo, as I fliould then have a better opportunity of receiving fur- ther orders from the honourable the board of direétorsy in cafe they made any fcruple of fending the ihip to fea^ with a dying furgeon, and between feventy and eighty of the crew on the ficklift. Hereupon I received orders from Mr. Van Bürot, through the comptroller olF equipment, to proceed to fëa the neit day, if I myfelf made no difficulty relpeöing the fituation of the furgeon, which, to fay the truth, I did not ; and therefore, I weighed anchor at nine a.m. and got under fail, with a ftifF gale at ê.n.e. At eleven o'clock, we cleared the land, carrying little fail, till eight P.M. when we changed our courfe to s.w. by s. We run under double-reefed topfails, during the night, and on the next morning, being the nth of March,, B 2 ^\)ft Digitized by Google t 4 ] juft before funrife, wc came ia fight of the coafts of England and France. We then carried a prefs of fail ; at eight o'clock we pafled Dover J and afterwards the Shingles, and at noon, we run clofe in with Beacby^ head, to put the pilot on board the hoy^ the mafter of which told me; he fhould keep company with me, as far as the Start Point, if I did not keep too far off fhore, I difpatched feveral letters by the pilot, and among others, one to the honourable the board of directors of Zealand^ to inform them of my progrefs thus far, in fafety, and that, when I muftered the fhip's crew upon failing, there were fix failors miffing. We got fight of the Ifle of Weight in the evening, and the next -day, at funrife, of the bill of Portland. We prefently after- wards hailed the mafter of the hoy, and in- formed him, that we had feventy-five fick ^ but, further, all welj. We wiflied each other a profperous voyage, and fleered for the Start Point. At ten o'clpck a.m. the hoy faluted us with feven guns, which we returned with the fame number; fhe then fleered clofer ia ihore^ Digitized by Google [ 5 1 Ihore, having to call at Falmouth for ao an*- cbor, which one of the Company's (hips had left behind there. We took our laft obfervation of the land, being the Start Point, an hour before fun- fet, and in a (hort time we loft fight of it, and, together with it, Europe, for a con-' iiderable period, fctting our courfe s,w. by w. Nothing happened worthy of remark till the 17th of March, except that we faw feveral ihips, and that two of our men died. We were then encountered by a violent ftorm, at firft from the s.w, but afterwards from w.n.w. and N.w. which continued till the 19th, with an angry and mountainous fèa, by which the (hip ftrained and heeled very much. This awakened in thofe who had never been at fea, efpecially in the junior merchant (the fupercargo), and the com- mander of the foldiers, the greateft appre- henfion of death ; it made fb deep an im- preflion upon the latter, in particular, that he was continually at prayers, upon his knees, though he was not other wife very religious. So we may fee that fear produces B 3 what Digitized by Google I « ] what th^ (bongcft arguments, and moft cam- eft exhortations, have faikdto cfFe^. At noon, on the 1 9th of March, the ftovcn had entirely fubfided ; we availed of this op- portunity to repair the little damage which we had received. The favourable wind which we thicn had, did not continue fo, longer than the evening of the next day, when we met with calms and co^^trary winds. We had, how- ever, now paffed Cape Fini/ierre, the north- weft point of Gallicia. The wind remained contrary, though with fine weather, till the 23d of March, when the foutherly wind veered to. eaft, and N.E. with good weather, which, in the lati- tudes we were in, to the north of the line, is rather a fingular circumftance ; for, ge- nerally, when the wind turns againft the courfe of the fun, it is accompanied by very- bad, fhowery, and windy weather, which does not change till the .wind returns round the fame way it came, to the north, of which we had a ftriking example in the laft ftorm. On the 24th of March, a failor died, who was Digitized by Google [ 7 1 iras th€ fourth, fince our departure from Zeakmd ; certainly a fmall number, in com- parifon with the numerous fick, with which Wc had put to fea ; thcfe were now re- duced to iixty-fix, and they were daily get- ting better. They that recovered, undoubtedly owed their cure, more to the operations of nature, than to the medicines which were admini- flcrcd to them. ^- The forgeon was very ill, and wholly incapable of vifiting the patients. One of his mates was equally fick, and the two others, did not even poflefs fufficient Ikill in their art, to diftinguifh the diieafe, much left to prefcribe the neceflary remedies ; fb that, as 1 afterwards underftood, fcarcely any thing was adminiftered to the poor Tai- lors, but rob fambuci^ 2sAJpiritus nitri dulcis^ with ia copious lupply of drink. I had likewife obferved, when we were lying at anchor, in the road of Rammekens^ and had one hundred and fourteen (ick, and daily deaths, that after the furgeon feil ill, their number decreafed from day to day. On my part, I had put every means in praélice, from the moment that this extra- B 4 ordinary Digitized by Google [ 8 1 ordinary degree of ficknefs manifefted it« felf^ if not to remove it^ at leaft to arreft its progrefsy and foften its^ malignity. For this purpofe, I ordered the places where the (ick lay, to be cleaned out every day, without, however, (ufFering any water to be ufed in fcouring, or otherwife, be- tween the decks ; for due cotifideration, and my experience on former voyages, had taught me, that the moift exhalation from thp wet that remain^ behind, contributes greatly to encreafe the corruption of the aij* impriibned in thefe narrow places. Frefli air was fupplicd in every poflible j»anner, as well by the ufual openings of the fliip, as by means of the ventilators, cool-fail, &c. The fick were fliifted from time Jo tinne ; their bedding aired ; their ordure was not fufFered to remain below in open buckets, but was immediately carried ijp, in clofed cafes ; their hands and faces were waflied every njorning with vinegar ; their mouths rinfed ; and the whole of the fick- ward was daily fumigated with juniper- berries, and fprinkled with vinegar. 3y putting all thefe means in praftice, I was fortunate enough, to moderate the great Digitized by Google t 9 3 great heat» which, in a place, where more than one hundred iick were crouded to- gether» mufl have bsen excefliVe ; fo that at night, it did not differ more than lo* from that of my own cabin, which I alcer* Cained by hanging two (imilar therrxK)meters in each place. While we were at Rammeiensy the di- reöors contributed greatly to the alleviation and refrefliment of thcfe wretched failors, in their ftate of debility and diftrcfs, by fending them a daily fupply of fre(h meat and greens, in which the part of the crew that were in health alio participated; I caufed a nourifhing fbup to be made for the lick, . pf the meat, every day ; and, when at fèa, I continued this praólice, with regard to the iick, at noon : in the morning, 1 gave them grout, with prunes, mixed with white wine and fugar ; and in the evening, bread foak* cd in beer, and fweetencd with treacle. I made the convalefcents walk for one or two hours, every day, or as long as their ilrength would allow, between the upper and middle decks, where the air was frefher than in the fick-ward, and not fo cold as upon jhe. upper deck» When Digitized by Google [ lO ] When they had contmued this, for a ftw days, they came above, in fine weather, k\ order to regain their loft ftrength, by iij- haling the pure fea-air, and at the fame time, to warm themfelves in the rays of* the fun, which encreafcd in force every day. But I did not fufFer them to do any duty, till they were perfcdtly rcftored to their former ftrength, and fully able to perfoite the uiual ihip^s work. But, to return to our voyage. On the «4th of March, we faw two fmall land- hirds, which made me conclude that we were more to the eaftward, or clofer in with the land, than we computed by the fhip*s reckoning ; the more fo, as in tra- veifing the bay of Bifcay^ we had daily found ourfelves more fouthward than our cftimation, ' which I attributed to a current running to the s.e. and which continually fets into that bay from the eaftward. The favourable wind which we got, after thefe little adverfities, carried us, on the 27th of March, in fight of the ifland Ma^ dara, the weft part of which we difcovered half an hour before funfet. This was con- fiderably different from my expedatioo i for I had Digitized by Google t " ) I ha4 depended, fröcii the reafims aibovo» rooQitioiied» th^t we iKould have been to the eaftward of our reckoobg : wherea», the contrary proved to be the caie^ a$ we found ourfelves twenty^two leagues to the weft- ward of it. This is a fingular circumftaftce, for of twenty (hips, there is fcarceiy one that has a wefterly roifreekoniqg here ; in general they are all to the eaftward of their computation; owing to the indraught of the currents, both into the bay of Bifcayj and into the bend between Cape St. Vincent^ and Cape Can^ tin^ in which laft they fet ftrongly to the caft, towards the Straits of Gibraltar: in our cafe, the contrary feems to have taken place. I had ooyfclf fo little expeöation of feeing the land on that fide, that although, in the afternoon, the fky bore, in that quarter, much the appearance of land, (hewing like the haze of thick clouds, hanging over high land, as Madeira is, and in the fanoe manner as I had before fêen that ifland overhung with clouds, I faid to one of my lieutenants, that if the fky had the fame appearance to the weftward^ as it now (hew- ed Digitized by Google [ ia ] ed to the eaft, I fhould think that it was Madeira^ but that there was no probability of its being to the eaftward of us. We, however, faw it, in that quarter, though but a finall part of its eaftern extremity was vifible to us, the reft of the ifland remaining hid, by the clouds above, and by a thick haze below. Towards evening we loft fight of it, and fteered our courfe, in order to run fifteen or twenty leagues to the weftward of the iflands Palma and Fuego^ the moft wefterly of the Canary iflands, and afterwards to the eaftward of the Cape Verde iflands. On the 28th of March, died one Joa- chim Van Wieken, a native of Riga^ where he had been a capital merchant, and to the moft confiderable of the inhabitants of which place he was related. He had been unfortunate in his bufinefs, partly by a too implicit confidence, and partly by his own careleffnefs and negligence, fb that he was obliged to quit his trade, and native place, and to feek his fortune elfewhere. This man came to me at Middleburgb in the month of November, requefting to be enlifted as a foldi^ for India, in my ihip. As Digitized by Google [ 13 ] As he was very well drefled, and had per-» fe6Hy the manners and appearance of a gentleman» I was much furprized at his application. I endeavoured» as much as poflible, to perfuade him to abandon his purpofe» by laying before him» the danger and inconvenience of fb long a voyage» and the diiagreeabie treatment he was likely to meet with in fb low a ilation ; it was» how- ever» all in vain» he was fixed in his refb- lution to undertake the voyage ; afTuring me chat the fecond in command of the Com- pany's fadory at Banjermajfing^ in the ifland of Borneo^ was his coufin ; and that this perfon had, feveral times, written to his fa- mily, that one of them fhould come over to him ; that he was rich» and» though knar* f ied» had no children ; that whoever came to him fhould be his heir» &c. Vam Wieken now wanted to try this refourcc forreeflablifhing his ruined affairs» if poflible. I endeavoured to convince him» how little reafon there was» to indulge in fuch cx- pedations» as his relation might be dead before he reached India» or he might have children» or have changed his mind ; tliat, in fuch a cafe» hé would not only have per- formed Digitized by Google t «♦ 1 formed a Itmg and difficult voyage to no purpofc, but he would betides find himfelf in.a remote and ftrangc country, where he knew no body, and whither he had no in- trododion, or recommendation j that h« would wander about without refource, and would be obliged to perform the haul du- ties of that fervite in which he was en« gaged^ and to which he would not find him^ felf competent. Nothing) however, could make him wa* yer in his determination ; and, I therefore engaged him as a failor, becaufe, if his views proved abortive, it would be eafier- for him to leave the Indies, as a failor, than as a fbldier. As (bon as he came on board, I had him lodged in the gunroom, and excufed him from performing the duty of a failor. The reigning diforder on board at- tacked him, foon after we were at fea, and thatching him from hfe, and his golden dreams of future wealth, gave him up a prey to the fifhcs of the deep. So are the plans of prudence, and the projeds of te-^ merity, baffled by the decrees of providence, and however far advanced towards their com- Digitized by Google C «5 I completion, the idle vifion is diilipated^ ir^ a momeut, by the breath of heaven. The day before, we had loft one Mat- thew Joseph Agoo, a native of Ltege, who, when he came on board, told me, that he was a teacher of the Latin, French, Italian» and German languages. A few days after- wards, he began to ihew iigns of infanity, and defired to be fet ott ihore. I alked him, whether he had any reafon to complain of bad treatment ? which he anfwered in the negative ; adding, however, " that his def- " tiny called him on fhore, and not on *' board a fhip/' I endeavoured to con- vince him of the contrary, by ftating that my deftiay, as well as his, and that of the whole of the ihip's crew, called us to go the voyage to India. Upon this he faid, " that, in order to be perfeéüy eafy, he •' muft have his wife and children on " board." When this was refufed him, he begged again to be fet on fliore, promifing by all that was facred, that he would be- come a capuchin. I foon faw that little was to be done with him, and left him, direding my officers to take particular care of him, e^ecially that he fhould not be ill treated. Digitized by Google t ■« ] treatecJ. The next morning, at fcveii o^clock^ as he was flanding by the main-' chains, he fuddenly, bidding his (hipmsltea^ farewel, fprang overboard ; fortunately, one of the failors, who was leaning out of A porthole between the decks, caught him by the hair of his head, or he would have been tarried away by the ftream. When he was fafe on board again, I had him put in irons for four-and-twenty hours, after which he ieemed to have come to his fenfes again. I took this opportunity of alking him who he was, and further particulars about his pa- rentage, fituation, &c. His (lory was as follows : •* He was born," he faid, ** at Liege^ and ** had early been educated there, by the Je- " fuits, for a learned profeffioii, and had even, *' in fome meafure, engaged himfelf in their ** fraternity. Afterwards he had left Liege^ •' and had lived for a long time in Ger* ** manyj particularly at Prague. He thea •^ met with a German nobleman, who " made him tutor to his children. A little time afterwards, he became acquainted with a young woman, whom he married, and by whom he had three children. Af- ter 4C Digitized by Google I 17 ] ** ter his marriage, he went^ with his wife, ** to reilde at 2t place in Germany^ where he *• had a comfortable livelihood for himfelf ** and his family, till, after having lived ** for fbveral years in happinefs, he was ** overtaken by a misfortune, which in- ** volved them all in diftrefs and mifèry. " Among his books, he had one, entitled, ** La Pierre Pbilofopbale^ which was moft ** ftriöly prohibited at that place. His ** wife being once in converfation with one ** of her neighbours, on fuch fubjeéls, faid, ** in the fimplicity of her heart, that her ** hufband had that book in his pofleffion ; ** upon which the other begged to look •* at it, and afterwards to borrow it, pro- " mifing to return it the next day; but in-- ** ftead of keeping his word, he carried it *^ direöly to the officers of juftice ; who *^ immediately feized upon the property of ** the unfortunate delinquent, and would " equally have fecured his perfon, had he *^ not faved himfelf by flight. Upon this, ** he returned to Liege^ to fee whether he ** could not raife fome money, for the aflift- ^« ance of his diftrefled family, left behind " in Germany; not fucceeding in this, he VOL. II. c " went Digitized by Google [ i8 ] " went to Maeftricbtf intending to enlift as " a foldicr, but he had there been inveigled " away, by one of the under-crimps, cm- ** ployed by the perfoiis, who procure re- *' cruits, for the Dutch Eaft-India Com- ** pany's fervice, in which he had been in- ^^ duced to engage, and had thus become " a foldicr, on board of the (hip Ouwer^ « kerkr After we loft fight of the ifland Madeira^ we had ftifF gales, from the north and n^e. which carried us fwiftly along, and, on the I ft of April, we pafled the tropic of cancer, without any thing worthy of notice, except that, on that day, the fea appeared very turbulent, with ftrong ripplings of currents. The heat was not very confiderable, for thc^ thermometer did not reach to 70® in the warmeft part of the day. Our fick were daily recovering, and we had every profpeö, that we fhould fliortly be without a finglc man unfit for duty. At nine. o'clock, a.m. on the 4th qf April, we faw the ifland Sal^ the northweftqrnmoft of the Cape Verde iflands. We here came to a determination of touching at St. y^^t to fee whether we could not get a ilipply of Digitized by Google [ >9 ] of Water, and of rcfrefhmcntó, for ouf lick, and for thofe who had recovered, but were weakly, and were threatened With the fcurvy. A fhort time before noon, we law the ifland Bonavijla^ along the eaft fide of which^ we failed at two leagues diftance, and to^ wards the evening, we loft fight of it again* The next morning, at funrife, we faw the ifland Mayo^ and we failed to the eaftward of it, at the diftance of a fhoft league. All thefc iflands appeared very barren, and burnt up. Neither trees, nor grafs, were to be feen ; nothing but bare rocks, and breakers on all fides, which, however, appeared not to extend more than a quarter of a league from the fliore.^ Having palled this ifland, we fteered for that oiSt. Jago^ and running in fight of it, and clofe in with the fhore, we made the point of Porto Praya^ which equally appear<« ed very arid and fcorched, and the hills were even become red from the parching climate. Juft before we came to the point oï Porta G 2 Pray a f Digitized by Google [ 20 ) Prayéi^ wc faw an inlet, or bay, which is called the Falfe Bay of Praya. In the deepeft part of this bay, there was a little grove of cocoanut-trees, and a few houf^s ; but a heavy furf broke all along the Ihorc. This is eafily to be diftinguiflicd from the true bay of Praya^ as the eaft point of the latter is high, fteep, and without breakers, and that of the former is very low, and fiirrounded by heavy breakers. We ran clofe along the eaft point of Porto Praydy about a piftolfhot from the {hore, and let drop our common bower-an- chor, under the fterft of a large Englifh fhip, in eleven fathoms, black fandy bpttom; but as it would not hold, we likewife ran out our beft bower, to which the (hip bore up, Wc had in the mean time been driven, by the. force of the wind, to within three cables* length of the weft point, which is nothing but a range of rocks, fo that we were in the utrïioft danger, and could not carry out any other anchor to warp us off, as the gale was too ft rong. We found fix fhips lying at anchor here; namely^ Digitized by Google [ 2t ] namely, an Engliih Eaft^Indiaman» bound tp Bengali two French veffels for Mauritius, and three Portuguefc for Brazil. Porto Praya is fituated, according to my obfervation there, in north latitude, 14** 50', at the mofl fouthern part of the ifland St. It is a pretty deep bay^ formed to the eaft by the beforemcntioncd point, whence the land trends to the north, to the deepeil: jpart of the bay. This eafteni fhore is very high and mountainous ; at the end of the bay, a little to the weft, there is a very ihdifFerent fortification, upon a little eminence, which is called the caftle, and upon which, tht Portuguefe eniign is hoifted, when any fhipc arrive. The land then turns, in a foutherly direc- tion, with high mountains, ending in a range of rocks, very little elevated above the fur- face of the fea, which form the weft point of the bay. Almoft in the middle, between the weft point and the caftle, about two cables* length from the fliore, there is a fmall ifland, which, by the eye, appears to be about thirty feet perpendicular out of the water. It is flat at c 3 top. Digitized by Google [ 22 ] top, like a table» and about eight hundred feet in circumference, by computation- The French call it flj/le aux Cailles. The ieamen who die in the harbour^ are buried there. Boats, but no fhips, can pafs between this ifland, and the weft (hore; the paflage is ulied with funken rocks. The ciftern, whence the fhips take in their water, is at the bottom of the hill upon which the caftle is built ; and in common ieafons, if drawn dry in the evening, is full again the next mol^ning, though the water itfelf is not very good, being mord or lefs brackifli. The town of Praya confifts of a few fcattered huts of wood and clay. There are no more than two or three brick buildings, which even can fcarccly be called houfcs, and which are inhabited by the governor and vice-governon There is nothing very attraÖive in the ap* pearance of the whole ; and the dry and parched look of the country, indicates fufii- ciently that it is fituated in the middle of the torrid zone. Being confined on board, partly by ill health. Digitized by Google f 23 ] health, and by the dangerous fituation of my fhip, which required my conftant prefence, I did not go on (hore to fee every thing my- felf, but I noted down the information I re- ceived from my officers. As foon as we were fafe at anchor, and had ialuted the king's flag with feven guns, and were anfwered with the fame number, I fênt the boat on ihore with my officers, to inform the governor of my arrival, and to requeft that I might be fupplied with water and refrefliments. They brought me information in return, that no refreihments were to be procured at the ifland, it not having rained for n>ore than nine months ; and that the didrefs for proviiions was fo great, that the inhabitants were in great danger of perifliing with fa- mine, if the fliip with provifions, which had been long ago written for from Portugal^ did not fpeedily make her appearance * ; that there * This drought was, in cffcA, followed, in the fame year, by a general famine in the Cape Verde iflands, in which many hundreds of people periflied for want. The commamler of a Dutch (hip, which touched at Zt. Jago during this diflrefoful feafony rccdvcd feveral of the natives, with their wives and c 4 children, Digitized by Google C 24 1 there was very little water, for that the crews of the Ihips which lay at anchor here, were employed, night and day, in drawing out the lead water that came into the ciftern ; fo that if we. could, at moft, obtain two leagers.a day, we might think ourfelvcs very well off; and this quantity was no more than we wanted every day, for our con- fumption. As foon as they landed, they were con- duced by the centinel, whofe mufquet was children, who fold themfcivcs to him, io order to efcape the dreadful confequenccs of want. He carried them to the Cafe rf Good fopo^ and fold them there ; but when the government was informed of it, he was ordered to redeem them at his owa expence, to carry them back to their native country, and to bring a certificate from the Portuguefe governor, importing the execution of thcfc orders. The circuniftanccs of thefe iflandi feem not to have been ameliorated fince; for, in 1792, when the Lion flopped at St.Jsgo, on her outward paflage to China, the ifland was in an abfolute ftate of famine. Little or no rain had feilen there for about ihrce years before. The rivers were, al« moft all, entirely dry. The furfece of the earth was, in gene- ral, dcftitutc of herbage. The greateft part of the cattle had already perifhed, not iefs through drought, than want of food. Of the inhabitants, many had migrated, many were fiamifljed to death. It is remarkable, that, in oppofition to the prefent (^arched and defolate frate of thefe iflands, the frequent (ho wen, which were obfcrved by the firft navigators, who touched at this identical place, the ifland of St. Jfigo^ induced them to give it the name of Plmfialis. f. without Digitized by Google t *S ] witbout a lock, to the government-houfê^ which made a very wretched appearance^ Vhere they had to wait, till the governor was in readiuefs to receive them. They thought that he had firft to drefs himfelf, as they faw clothes carried in doors. At la ft being conduced in, they were re- ceived by his excellency, without a coat, and in his waiftcoat, having his hair turned up fhiooth over the head, and making, upon the whole, a ftrange figure*. He men«- tioned, among other things, that the outr ward-bound Eaft-India Company's fhips, Honkoop^ the Veldhoen^ Zuidbevelandy and Botbland, had lain at anchor here, from the 22d of January till the 1 2th of February laft, that they had brought many fick with them, and left many dead behind them. The furniture of the chamber of audience, confifted of two chairs, a fmall table, and two little piéhires hung againft the wall : in the middle, it was divided acrofs by a mat, * The nanrie and ityle of this auguil perfonage, was Don Joachim Salama Salpanha D£ Lobos, governor general* for the crown of Portugal, of the Cape de Verde on the main land of Africa» and of the Cape de Verde iflands oppofite tp it. r. and Digitized by Google t 26 j and the part on the other fide fcrved for a kitchen. * They were then carried to the vice-go- vernor, who was drefled in a red cloth coat, ,witb gold lace, and a large pair of fpeÖacles upon his nofe. His abode was alfo furnifhed fomething better. Againft the wall hung three watches, and a little wooden cuckow- clocky which he faid had been given to him by a Dutch captain* In one corner of the room lay feveral folio books, which feemed to be in a very fhabby condition. Wherever they came, they were impor- tuned by the common people for afliftancc of provifions. There was even a Portuguefc, who, by his drefs, feemed to be an officer, and who offered one of my men ten Spanilh dollars, to be taken on board my fhip, pro- mifing to do the duty of a common (ailor, if he could but get away from this wretched country, where he expefted in a fliort time to die of hunger. As 1 now found that neither any refrefii- ments, nor any water, were to be procured here, I determined to depart with all ipeed, and profecute my voyage. I left two letters to be forwarded to Holland, one of which was Digitized by Google [ *7 ! was for the direöors of the Eaft-India Com* paay^ informing them of the iituation of my ihip and crew. I fent the governor twoor three cheefe^ and fome ftockfifli^ to induce him to take particular care of my letters; he re* ceived my prefent with many thanks, and aflured me, he would, without fail, difpatch the letters by fome opportunity for Europe* On the 7th of April, early in the mornings we began to heave our anchors ; but the common bower came home without a flock, and with all the force we could bring to mdn the capilan, we could not move the beft bower ; we, therefore, determined to cut the cable, to get the (hip out of her dangerous £tuation, which we did, and got under iail about half paft feven o'clock. The firft day after we left St. Jago^ it blew hard from the n.e. but the wind flackened in the following days ; though we retained the N.E. tradewind till the 14th of April, in 4^ north latitude ; where we met with calms and variable winds, accompanied by thuhder, lightning, and heavy fhowers of rain« We availed of this opportunity to catch ibme rain-water, and, for two mornings running. Digitized by VjOOQIC ' running, we fecured fevcn or eight ieagers, though the heavy rain did not laft longer than two hours each time. This allowed me, with greater eafe» to give the men plenty of water ; by which I bad the good fortune to find, that in a hot and unhealthy climate» where the thermometer was frequently above 82°» my fhip was without a üngle tick man» except one of my lieutenants, and a ^nners' mate, who had both, for years before, been valetudinarians. To the circumilance of being able to give them a plentiful allowance of water, I chiefly attributed the healthineis of my crew, dur- ing the remainder Jüf the voyage; and I have found, by experience, that no more water is expended, by having an open water-calk upon deck, than when the crew are put upon an allowance of ten muts * per day, if care be taken that none of it be fpilt, or uiiiiecefla-» rily expended, which may eafily be prevpnt-f ed by placing a ccntinel at the water-cafk. The reafon why the men derive more benefit from it, in this way, is, that the fame quantity then ferves them for four or five r * About two pints and a half* T% draughts. Digitized by Google [ ^9 ] «iraughts, which they otherwife confume at QQce, in the morning (the time when the allowance is given out), partly out of greedi<- ne&9 or from the thirft which they have fuf- fered during the night, and partly becaufe they have no means of keeping the re- mainder of their allowance. Hence, when they have thus drank up all at once, in the morning, they muft, in a burning climate, endure the moft dreadful thirft, for the re- mainder of the four-and-twenty hours, which is not a little aggravated by the fait and dry nature of their provifions. I hkewife took particular care that every thing was kept clean and neat between the decks, and conftantly fumigated witli gun- powder, juniper-berries, and frankincenfe, as well as iprinkled with vinegar. When the calms and heat were exceffive, I had two or three quarts of lemon-juice, put into a leager of water, which proved very refrefli- ing to the crew, and I mixed gentian-root, jefuits' bark, and orange-peel, in their al- lowance of fpirits : all which had a decided good efFeft upon the health of my people. Calms, light, variable, and contrary winds, and currents, which laft, I found, by two Digitized by Google [ 30 '1 two obfcrvations, let ftrongly to th« north-* weftward, accompanied us, before we palled the line, till the 25th of April» on which day, at noon, we were in o^ 50' fbuth latitude. * This was a day of joy and merriment. I had fbme hogs and (heep killed, and likewife fome excellent foup. made, to which a fuffi- cient quantity of lemon-juice was added ; and their good cheer, both at noon and at night, which was encreafed by half a pint of punch, which I gave to each man, fo exhilarated the crew, that all was boifterous joviality, with repeated fongs, and uncouth dances, fo that we rather feemed to be at a country- wake?^ than on board of a (hip, bound on a diftant voyage. My fatisfaöion was enhanced by the re- flexion, that we had not one fick man on board, and that all the people looked as hale and fre(h, as if they were juft come from ihore. As foon as we had paflfed the line, the fea fwarmed with fi(h, albicores, bonitos, flying- fifh, and (harks; and we caught a great many, which proved a feafonable and agree- able refre(hment to the crew. On the 9th of May, we had pafTed the Abrolhos Digitized by Google [ 3« ] Abrolbos (hoals, and the next day the iflands of Trinidad and uifcenfiony I wi(hed much to have feen the laft^ but could diicover no appearance of land, not even any birds» which made me think, that we were niore to the eaftward than we computed. Two days afterwards, in 23! • fouth lati- tude, under the tropic of Capricorn,, we loft the eaft tradewind, and met with variable winds, moftly from the s.w. with which wc fleered s.£. till in 281^, thence s.s.b. till in 33^, then eaft by fouth, till in 34!*, being the latitude of the Weft point of Falfe-h^iy^ and laftly eaft, in a direct line for the iame. On the 19th of May, we faw, for the firft time, the birds called cape-pigeons *. Thefe birds belong to the genus of gulls, and are of the (ize of our fea<-gulls, but have not fuch k>ng and pointed wings, and are heavier of flight. The head, and the back of the neck» are quite black, as is the tail, and the end of the wings, which are otherwife, together with the back, variegated with black and white fpots ; the breaft and belly are entirely white* Thefe birds are met with, in large * A diver (ity of the fpccics ïarus catmrhoRn^ T. flocks. Digitized by Google [ 3* ] flocks, both to the eaft, and to the weft, of the Cape of Good Hope, eipecially in ftormy weatlier. Befides thefe, we faw likewife a number of other birds, moft of which belonged to the genus of gulls. Of thefe, the mantel* meeuwen * were the handfomeft ; they are about half as large again as the former, of a fnowwhite colour, with black wings. Like- wife another fort, of the fame lize, which were wholly black, with yellow bills. We faw alfo the dead body of a noord* kaper^ or fpermaceti-whale -f-, floating by us ; we gueffed it to be fifty feet in length : a great number of cape-pigeons, and other lea- birds, were fitting and feeding upon it. Till the 23d of May, we had almoft con- tinually had the fineft and moft agreeable weather that can be dehred at fea, and which had only been interrupted, now and. then, though very feldom, by a fliort ftorm. We now, however, began to experience a change. The wind blew harder from day to day ; the fea ran higher ; the fun was ♦ The la us marims^ or great black and white guU of Pennant.' T. f Fhrjifctir maaocep.alus, fometimes Digitized by Google t 33 ] ibmetimes hidden from us for entire days ; the cold encreafed fb much, that the ther- mometer declined, at times, even in the middle of the day, to 56^ ; fo that all con- fpired to prove to us, that the winter, or bad monfbon, is as unpleafant in thefe parts, as the months of November and December are in Europe ; I muft, however, except froft, but inftead of it, we had violent ihowers of rain and haiL Although the winds blew hard, and often encreafed into a ftorm, with a high-running fea, yet they ihortened our paflage, as they were conflantly favourable. On the 29th of May, however, the wind had encreafed to fuch a pitch, that although, with refpeft to the point whence it blew, it was favourable for us, we were obliged to lye by, as the mountainous waves were no more to be avoided, and threatened to overwhelm us at every time ; in addition to which, the head- way of the fhip was fo great, that we could fcarcely fteer her. The next day, the wind abated a little, fb that we could again make fail, and follow our courfe. We had, however, a continuance of higl^ VOL, II. x> winds^ Digitized by Google [ 34 ] winds, efpeciallv from the n.w. with ram and dark weather ; and fometimes it fuddenly veered, with a violent fqualU to the s.w* after which it generally grew more calm. From the 25th of May to the 3d of June, we had failed over a fpace of three hundred and forty German leagues ; at noon, on that day, the wind began to encreafe in vie» lence from the weftward, and in the evening, it had grown into a florm, with dark rainy weather, fb that we were obliged to hand almoft all our fails. This, however, was nothing compared to the next day, the 4th of June, when, about eight o'clock, A.M. the temped blew with fuch dreadful violence, and in fucK heavy fqualls, that it exceeded all defcription. The ftupendous waves, which feemed to reach the clouds, broke againft, and Ibme- times over, the fliip with fuch force, that had we not had a üufh-deck, that is, one that lies even from ftem to ftern, I do not believe that we fhould have prefcrved one of our mafts, not to lay any thing of worfe ac- cidents. Fortunately, both wind and fea began to abate Digitized by Google C 35 ] abftte towards the evenings we fhould other- have paiTed a very difmai night. After midnight, when the wind had vccr^ ed to s.w. the weather cleared up a little ; and we again fet our fails, and purfued oiir courfb, without having fufFered any material damage. We had favourable wefterly winds, al- though generally blowing hard, with hazy weather, till the 8th of June, when they changed to s.e. with the new moon, and thus turned againft us exaélly a day too ibon ; as, by all iigns, namely, the variation of the compafs, the feeing of feals, trumpet- weed, petrels and pintados, and the change in the colour of the water, we were warranted in our expeélations of feeing land the next day. The s.fi. and eaft winds continued till the 15th of June, when it fell calm. But, to- wards noon, we got a breeze from the s.w. with which we endeavoured to make fome northing, as we found ourfelves in the fouth latitude of ^si^* On the 17th, we experienced a fudden change, and a heavy fquall from the weft and N.w. As we thought ourfelves fo i)ear the land, D 2 we Digilized by Google [ 36 ] we durft not ftand on with this wind, which was accompanied by thunder, lightning, and hail, but towards evening, we took in all our (ails, except the main and mizcn ftayfails, under which we lay by during the night. The fea, forced on by the violence of the rain and hail, ran fo high, and broke with fo much violence againft the fides of the fliip, that (he was frequently under water to lee- ward, as far as the hatches, and the yard- arms fwept the furface of the fea. This weather continued till the 19th, when the wind abated a little, and enabled us to make fail. In the forenoon, we fteered N.E. in order to make the land. In the af- ternoon, we faw two feals and a whale, which made us expeft to difcover the land every moment ; but the weather growing hazy, and the evening beginning to fall, we again loft all hope of it. . In order, however, that we might not overflioot the land, we judged it advifable, to bring to, and wait till daylight. We founded with a line of one hundred and fifty fathoms, but found no bottom. But at half paft nine in the evening, we got foundings Digitized by Google [ 37 1 (bundings in ninety fathoms. This indicated, that had the weather been clear, we fhonld have feen the land at funfet. Unfortunately, the n.w. wind had en- crcafed to fuch a degree, after funfet, that the proximity of our deftined port, was of no avail, for it lay in the exaft direftion whence the wind blew ; and we were, on the con- trary, forced- .to make fail off fliore, not knowing how for we were from the land, and being iiire that if the wind veered round to the fouth or s,w. we ihouldrunthe greateft danger of lofing both the fhip, and our lives. We were driven along, on the reef of Anguillas^ in this ftorm, froni the northweft, till the 2 id of June^ in the forenoon of which day, the weather abated, in fb far, that we could fet our lower fails, and the main top« fail with three reeves; flattering ourfelves with the hope that we fliould Ibon meet with a favourable gale. This was, however, but of (hort duration, for the wind again grew to inch a head, about half paft two o'clock, p.m. that we were forced to hand all our fails ; and at four, the ftorm had become a perfeél bur- , D 3 ricane. Digitized by Google f 3» ] rlcané *, which continued to rage with the greateft fury, till about midnight, the wind inceflantly veering round from north to s.s.r» with violent hail, thunder, and lightning. The (ky and the fea were, in appearance, {q thoroughly blended and confounded, that it was only clofe to the (hip, that we could diftinguifli what was really fea. We feem- cd to be enveloped in impenetrable obfcurity, while the lurid light afforded by the incelfant Hghtning (hooting clofe down by the fhip^ ierved only to perplex and dazzle the fight, and to encreafe the awefulnefs of the fcenc. The furges, towering above our heads, fell upon the ftern and fides of the veffel with hideous violence, and threatened, every moment, to overwhelm us entirely ; the force of the waves frequently naade the fliip • The denomination of hurricane, belongs properly to that fpecies of temped, in which the wind, blowing with the i2tmo{^ fiiry^ does not come from any fixed quarter, but runs round from north, to weft, and through fouth, to eaft, raifing the billows, on all fides, with repeated blafls, and accompanied with violent thunder and lightning, fo that all the element» feem to be intermingled in one confiifion. AU this took place in the hurricane here mentioned, with the exception, that, in in the eight hours wh'ch it trontinutd, the wind, inftead of running all rouncl the compafs, was confined between north and s.s.B.*^. heel Digitized by Google r 39 a btel (a mtTCh, that ihe was un^er water o& one iide as far as her ma^s, while the bowl* ing wind, bearing perpendicoiarly down upon them, prefled them, as it were, into the wa- ter, and kept the (hip for feveral minutes ieemingly in the very aÖion of orverfettlng. As nothing could now be done, by the art of man, we were forced to abandon the (hip to the power of the winds and waves, and the mercy of heaven. In this tremendous conjunöurc, we owed our prefervation, next to God, tothe con- ftruftion of our veffel ; for although (he was expofed,, without any guidance, to the fury of the fea, and the tempeO:, and was oftei> wholly overwhelmed by the waves, the wa* tcr could not penetrate any where, but flow- ed off on ail (ides, when (he rofe again ; whereas had (he been a deep-waifted (hipy file would infallibly have been water-logged, and would, at lea (I, have rolled away her mafts, if not foundered. It is difficult to conceive, why this manner of building has only been adopted, for the £a(^*India Company's (hips, by the chambe/ ^ Zealand I for it is incontrovertable, that a floih-decked (hip is much more able to with- D 4 (land Digitized by Google [ 40 ] ftand the force of the waves, than a deep» waiiled one. After midnight, the dorm began to abate a little» but the wind was ftill too high to ad- mit of any fail being bent, I, however, direéled the flying jibfail to be fpread in the mainchains, to leeward, in order to.give the ihip ibme flem, againft the violent rolling. The next day, at fix o'clock, a.m. the high wind changed fuddenly to a dead calm, which, however, lafted no more than four or five minutes, when it again blew a violent florm from s.s.E. accompanied by hail ; but it fubfided by degrees during the forenoon, after which we purfued our voyage, with a fair wind, and fine weather, for Ftf^-Bay. By the bad weather, which had thus con- tinued for fevcral days, we computed that ve had been driven a great way to the eaft- ward of Cape Anguillas: but on the next day, being the 24th of June, about one o'clock, P.M. getting fight of the land of Africa^ we found that we were much more to the weftward, than we had reckoned, fince we had firft ftruck foundings, which muft only be afcribed to the currents which now fet forwards, or towards the eaft. What corlfirmed Digitized by Google r 41 3 confirmed me in this opinion wns, that, ac- cording to a journal of the ftiip Baarzande^ commanded by that very intellisrent and ex- perienced feaman. Captain Haringmak, his ihip had been carried one hundred and eight leagues more to the weft ward, than by her reckoning, in the fpace of fifteen days^ fince ihe had firft fallen in with the coall of Africa^ near Punto Primetras. But our reckoning, fince our laft obferva- tion at the ifland St. Jago^ on the 7th of April, differed more from our true fituation ; for we computed that we had failed one hundred and thirty leagues more than we, in reality, found to be the cafe. The next morning, wc endeavoured to work into F^^^-Bay, but were firft fruftrated by its falling calm, and on the enfuingday by aftorm from the n w.. which drove us out to iea, and prevented us from making the bay again till the 28th. The day after, we were fortunate enough to caft anchor within the bay, on the weft ihore, in thirty-eight fathoms, about a league and a hajf from 5r/»ö»*s-Bay, which we could not reach, oil account of its falling calm. I had, at this time, three hundred and fifty men Digitized by Google [ 4« ) men on board, who were in perfed health» aod I had loft no more than nine, fince leaving Zealand. On the next day, being the joth of June, the wind blew hard from the north ; I ihonld» Bevertbeleis, have endeavoured to work up to the anchorage, if I had then known that it was fo near ; but the Company's chart, which I afterwards found to be of no ufe to me, together with what one of my lieutenants told me, who had before been here in a fub- ordinate ftation, induced me to think, that this could not be effedted in one day, for which reafon, 1 chofe to remain at anchor where I was, till the wind became a little favourable. But the time was not yet come, fo put a period to our wanderings ; for, in the even- ing óf the 30th of June, the wind agaia rapidly encreafed, and at half paft nine o'clock» our anchor began to drag, and the flxip fwung with her head towards the fhore, ib that we had only time to cut the cable, to come round before the wind, and put to fea again, being in the utmoft danger of ftriking upon the rocks of the weft point. The ftorm, which drove us from oui; anchor^ Digitized by Google [ 43 3 •ochor, lafted till the 5th of July, when it iubtided, and we again got fight of the coaft ef Africa^ near Ri$ Dulce. We ftill were tormented ^ ibmtftimes by ikorms^ and fometimes by contrary winds, till tbe i2thof July, when we found ourie Ives, at daybreak, under the eaft point of Fayi^ Bay, called the Hangiip. v Although the wind then blew from the s,w. with much force, and the fea ran very high, we were fortunate enough to weather the point, and at two o'clock, p.m. to an^ chor in the outer road of Simon\ Bay ; but as it thea fell calm, we could not get &r« ther; and though we made every exertion to warp in, we could not effeft it. The refi-- dent of the bay, came on board of me, the fame afternoon, and I delivered the Com- pany's papers to him. On arriving here, we counted twenty-five men on the ficklift, ten or twelve of whom were down by external accidents, and, as bc'- forefaid, nine had died fince our departure from Zealand. The next day, being the 1 3th of July, we warped in, between the Roomari^ Rock, and Digitized by Google [ 44 3 ♦ and the jirkj which is equally a rock above water, and anchored in twelve fathoms. Falfe * Bay is a large and deep iiilet^ iituated \o the fbutheaft of Table-^^y and Capetown and caftle. Its weft fide is form- ed by a range of mountains, which lun from the Lion*s Mountain, fouthward, and termi- nate in the fea, feven leagues off, with a low point, upon which, however, there arc two middling high hills, by which it is dif^ tinguifhable. This ridge makes a bend^ from Simon* s Bay, to the northeaftward, nearly a league and a half in length, and ends at a place, where there is a poft of the Company, called Muizenburg. Thence, for three leagues eaft, the beach is befet with low fandhills, at the end of which it trends fouthcaft, for about two leagues, till it reaches a chain of high mountains, which form the boundary of Hottentot Holland^ and termi* nate in the fea, two leagues farther to the fouth, in a very remarkable hill, called the Hanglip. The mouth of the bay, from the Hanglip^ to the weft point, which lie eaft and weft from each other^ is full four German leagues broad; Digitized by Google 't 45 1 broad; its extent inland may be a little more* Along the weft (hore, where there is every where good anchorage, as well as in the middle of the bay, though in deep water, there are feveral bights, which are alfo call- ed bays, as Bufalo-Bay^ Kalk, or Ume^ Bay, &c. in which fliips may lie at anchor, but they are no where ihcltered from the fouth- eaft winds, except 'mSifOon'i Bay, which runs farther in, and is covered by two rocks at the entrance, upon which the foutheaft fwell of the fea breaks, and behind them, Ihips lie ihcltered from all winds, or, as our fcamea exprei^ it, fea-bUnd. Twenty Ihips may lie here with eafe, at once, to take in water and rcfrefliments. Befides the Company's hofpital, their magazine, and fliambles, there are only four or five houfes here, one of which is inha- bited by the refident, who had formerly the rank of junior merchant, but was now book- keeper. The hofpital is an edifice, in which one hundred patients can, with eafe, be ad- mitted. It is built upon the brow of ^ hilL It has a triple front towards the fea. The apart- Digitized by Google t ♦« ] apartments, which are lofty, and without ceiling, are very airy. In the center is a large fijuare court ; fo that the fick here, have ri- ways frefli air^ which contributes largely to their recovery. The h(^pital at the C^e, as we have before obferved *, is deftitute of this advantage ; whence, likewife, twice as many of the patients die there as here» The hofpital formerly flood upon the beach, where now the magazines and work-* (hops are placed ; thefe laft form one long building, which, however, is only twenty feet in breadth. We found two Englifli (hips lying at an- chor here, bound to Madras and Bengal. On board of one of them, had embarked. Lieutenant General Clave ring, who was fent out to take the command of the military in Bengal^ in behalf of the king ; he was ac- companied by Colonel Mo n son, and other officers ; there were likewife fome counfel- lorsof juflice on board, for Bengal^ where the Englifh pofleflions were about to be put upon a different footing. Befides thefe, there were three French fhipsi^nchorcd in the bay. The largeft, * See page 550, of volume I. commanded Digitized by Google t 47 ] contnmnded by M. de St. HTLA111B9 was boond to Suraty and had on board M. ds Breincourt, French conful of that place. This (hip, called the Due JtArras^ had been built for the king» and to carry feventy*» four guns, but (he was now private property. The captain^ although not in the fervice of the king, but only in that of private indi« ▼iduals, when he firft came here, foine time before, had been much diflatisfied that his la- lute had not been returned, although the go^ verament had taken care to apprize him, before he faluted, that, according to a refblu- tion of the council of India, they were not allowed to return the falute of any French (hip, not in the king's, or Company's, fcrvicc* This gentleman was highly affronted at this, becaufe he conceived, that his having re- cently been favoured by the king, with aa order of knighthood, was a fufficient quali- fication, to be looked upon as «. king's officer^ and he threatened to take fatisfadion for the flight put upon him, by attacking the Eaft- India Company *s (hip Alkemade^ which lay at anchor here. Whether the government were afraid that he would put this menace in execution, and therebv Digitized by Google [ 48 ] thereby endanger a Company's fhip, or ^he^ ther any other reafons fwayed thetn to change their refolution, I cannot tell; but only, that^ to make an end of this difpute, the Alkemade received orders to return the Frenchman's falute, a long while after it was made, with an equal number of guns. The inhabitants of the Cape^ complained. In general, of the infolent behaviour of the French, who, it was faid, were much more favoured by the government, than any other nation^ CHAP. Digitized by Google [ 49 ] CHAPTER II. journey to Capetown. — "Tbt Welzand^ (fr 9jiick- fond. — MuiZBNBURG. — Militia^ and Means of Difence, at the Cape. — An Excurfion inland. — Remarks on the planting of Vines, and f r effing of Wine. — Rivers inland Jometimes are large Streams , and fometimes run dry. — Defcription of a large Farm. — Difeafes of the Cattle. -^Account of the Farmer. — Converjation with him on the Produce^ i£c. of the Country. — I'ithes and Duties paid to the Company» — Farm of Wine and Spirituous Li- quors. — Plans for Improvement, — Muscle and Saldanha Bays fit ObjeSls of Attention. — Hof- pitality of an African Colon^/i.— Their happy Lives. — Village of Stellenbosch. — Het Moddergat. — Hottentot Holland. — Abufe of Authority by one of the Governors, with Regard to this TraSt. — Friendly Reception at another Farmer^ s. — Further Enquiries and Particulars r^- fpeSing the Produce and Trade of the Cape. — Mu.8CLE, Agva, Saldanha, and St. He- lena Bays. — The Seat called Vekgeleeg^}^. — Return to Capetown. — Short Stay of the Ship, the Occafion of much Difeafe afterwards among the Crew. — Return to Taele-^Böj^ of a Vepl VOL. II. E that Digitized by Google . [ 50 ] that bad been driven far to the South. — Return /# False-5^. — Arrival of a Ship from Holland with a great Number of Sick. JlLi VERY thing being in due order on board of my (hip, and my prefencc not being fur- ther ncceflary, I made an engagement, on the 14th of July, with three gentlemen, to ride to the Cape. We fet off about one o'clock ; the road firft led along the beach, the fea being on our right, and a high ridge of mountains on our left, which hung over us. After riding for about an hour, we came to a place, which is called the Welzand^ or Siuickfand. The mountains here take a large bend inland^ and form a fandy valley, which ex- tends to the ieafliore, and is peculiarly dan- gerous for travellers, as it does not unfre- quently happen, that people, ignorant of the circumftance, getting into the loofe fand, are in great danger of finking into it, and being buried alive, if fpeedy affiftancc be not af hand to extricate them. Two days before I paffed here, an Eng- lifhman, who belonged to one of the (hips in the bay, got into this place with his horfe, in the Digitized by Google [ 51 ] the evening, and he would moft probably have loft his life, . had he not inftantly, as ibon as he fett his horfe finking under him, iprang off and got away, while the animal ^was prefently fwallowed up in the fand, and ftifled, without his rider being able to give him any affiftance. ^ As I did not find any one, who had been inclined to examine this pait with accuracy, or who could give any reafon for, the phe- nomenon of the fand being fo looie, as to fwallow up thofe who attempted to pafs over it, and my own time, and opportunity,would not permit me to ufe my poor abilities foe this purpofe, I am wholly ignorant ! of " the caufes to which thefe circumftahces.arp to be attributed. , « • The fureft means of avoiding the danger of this road, which is about a quarter of a Dutch mile long, is by riding clofe down by the fea, or even through the fi^rf, where the ground is hard ; though here, likewifc, prudence muft be ufed ; for if one ride too far through the waves, there ifi noilittle dan- ger of being carried away by them; A too great fear for the Welzand^ had nearly coft my. (econd lieutenant his life; E 2 for Digitized by VjOOQIC [ 5* 1 for ridirfg too far through tihe water, .he got out of liis depth with ^bis horié, and the ani- mal fwam away from under him ; fortu- nately he was an adept in the art, and he faved his life by fwimming, reaching the ihore at the {ame time with his horfe. Nothing is produced in this fandy vaUey» but in fome places, a few green bufhes, which fomewhat refemble the broom that grows upon our downs. Befides this Welzand^ there is another fmaller paiTage, which is equally dangerous, from the fame clrcucn^ftances, and lies about halfway between this and Simon^s-Bay. •Having pafled this dangerous Ipot, at full gallop, in order to run the lefs peril of fink- ing in, we came, a fhort half hour after- wards, to a place called Muizenburgb jV/hich is a poft of the Company, who keep two or three men conftantly on the look-out here, for the purpofe of fending immediate advice to the CapCy of the arrival of fhips in Falfe- Bay, or their departure from it. There are ftables here belonging to the Company, which were creeled, in the years 1755, and 1756, for the cavalry of the country, who, upon the leaft alarm of an enemy Digitized by Google [ S3r I enemy attempting to land in the neighbour- ing Ka/i or Lme^Eay^ muft inftantly repair tidther, with fome light artillery, to prevent their landing; or, if they have landed in fome of the other bays higher up, their paffage farther muft here be dil'puted, the place being of that nature, that fifty determined men» may ftop the progrefs of feveral thou- iands, for a confiderable time ; for the road is very narrow, with high mountains on one fide, and a precipice of upwards of forty feet on the other, the bottom of which is waflied by the fea. The chain of mountains, which half inclofe F^^-Bay, like wife termi- nates here. After having taken fome refreihment, we followed the road which leads north into the country, leaving the vineyards of Conftan-^ tia *,. and fome other farms and country- feats, * Thcfe confift of two farms, called Great and Little Qm/iantia, Their annual produce is, of red winet about fixty pipes, and of white, about ninety ; yet the vintage here, as in other places, is different, in different years. Thefe two farms were for a long time the only fpots which could pro* duce this delicate wine ; but lately fome other farms in this dülrié^, and in a few other places, have been able to bring their wines to the fame degree of excellence. But as the £ 3 Company Digitized by Google [. 54 1 feats, which he here in an extenfivc hollow between the mountains, on the leftfide, and the fandhills, which are interfperfed over a large plain of feveral leagues in extent, pro- ducing nothing but fbme brufhwood, and a few infignificant thickets, on the right hand. Every thing bore a barren and fandy ap- pearance. We, however, met, at inter vals, with a few rivulets, running down from the hills, out of which we let our horfes drink. About half paft five o'clock in the even- ing, we reached Capetown. I immediately waited upon the governor of the colony, Mr. VAN Plettenburg, and upon Mr. Hemmy, the fecond in command, to acquaint them of my arrival. • The next day I converfed with the gover- nor, more amply than the preceding even- ing, upon the iubjeft of the fituation of my fhip and crew. I requeftedhis excellency Company refervcd to themfclvcs the exclufive fale of Con- QaDtia wine, which co^fcqucntly was confidered as contra- bandf' and was not to be bought, or tranfported to Europe, ynderthat name, by individuals, they hit upon the expedient of giving their wine, which in point of goodnefs does not yield to Conftantia, the name of maag^ oxjiftmach wine. 71 ' -' ' ' to Digitized by Google [ SS ] to allow me to remain at Icaft for the fpace of a fortnight where I was, in order that my people^ who had been greatly fatigued by the length of the voyage, and éfpecially by the continued tempeftuous weather we had experienced for the laft five weeks, might be enabled, by the refrefhments to be ob- tained for them, to reco4rer fufEcient ftrength to encounter anew the boifterous weather of a winter in the fbuthern latitudes : I " like- wife begged leave to fend forty or fifty men on fliore every day, in order, that by taking exercife among the hills, and by the efiefts of the land-air, the fcorbutic tendency, which already began to manifeft itfelf among them, might be combated. In both which in- ilances the governor kindly complied with my defires. On the following Sunday I attended di- vine fervice, and heard a moft excellent difcourfe, by the Reverend Mr. Serrurier, who is really an eloquent preacher. Dining that day with Mr. Ronnekamp, the converfation at table turned upon the ftate of defence of the country, and as that gentleman had acccfs to the fecret afFairs.of the colony, I took the opportunity of aflcing E 4 him. Digitized by Google ' [ 56 3 faim^ how many men capable of bearing arms, he computed, could be muftered at the Cape ? He told me, that he could not determine this with accuracy, but that there were full onethoufand at the Cape^ and twice as many of the country-people, who were enrolled, in order to take up arms upon any emergency *. As Kkewife that the num« ber of the colonifts could not be afcertain- ed, for that the colony was already To far extended, that the more diftant farmers, re- quired forty days (or rather nights, for they always travel by night), to ride with their * In order, in fueh a cafe, to apprize all the farmers, who Hve difperfed far and wide over the country, of the impend- ing danger, high pofls are ere<^ed all through the land, upon which lights are hoifted at night : the chain of them begins at the caflle, the next ilation is at the Zwte^ or ^«Zr-river, and fo on towards the country; upon the feeing of which fignals, every one is obliged to repair armed to the caftle. When a youth is arrived at the age of üftettfi, he muft be enrolled, and every year he muft refort to the place of rendez^ vous, in order to perform his exercife. On this occafion he muft take the oath of allegiance. When a father has two fons in the militia, he is himfelf exempt from duty. Thefe reviews, both of horfe and foot, are held every year, in the town for the burghers, and at Stellenbofcb and ZtueUendam for the farmers belonging to the colony. If any one negleö to appear at the rendezvous, he is fined. T, waggons Digitized by Google I 57 1 waggons to the Cape ; and that thcfe, both in their manners and appearance, more re- fcmblcd Hottentots than Chriftians. As I had not much time to fpend at the Cafe^ I arranged my affairs, fo that I could make a little exeurfion into the country for four or five days. For that purpofe I made a party with Mr. Ernst (whom I had known as lieutenant of the cavalry at Ba- tavia, and who was now here, with his wife, on his palfage to Europe), and Mef- ficurs Van Wielingen, and Le Sueur. Having obtained the necelfary permiffion from the governor *, we left Capetown^ at nine o'clock in the morning, taking with us a ilave to attend upon our horfes. We firft rode to the Zö^^é*- river, which we forded at half paft nine, our horfes go- ing into the water as far as their bellies; for the river- had been encreafed by the heavy rains, and the ftream was pretty ftrong. Thence we rode, in an e.n.e. direction, * As the colonifts are enjoined by the laws, to fcize and bring to the Cafc^ all fuch as travel about the country, with- out being able to (hew a permiflioo in writing for that purpole» a pafs from the goternor is necelfary. 7. to Digitized by Google C 58 I to the Tiger ^valley y where we flopped at eleven o'clock, at the farm of one Ek- STEEN, to take fome refrefliment, confiftiiig of fome bread and butter, and a good glais of whie. Our road had hitherto led through a fandy plain, upon which there grew nothing but a little brufhwood ; but we faw many cultivated t;ra£ls of country, at a diftance» on the left hand, in the 7'i^^r-Mountain$. After having ftopped here for half an hour, we again mounted our horfes, and took our road a little more to the eaftward, to the farm of Van As, (ituated on the flope of the Boddelaary^ or jBi^//?ry-Moun-f tains, which we reached at one o'clock. The man and woman of the houfe, received us in a very friendly manner, and gave us a difli of tea, and a glafs of good wine *, while our horfes were baiting. We * I have obfervcd that we acver drank any wine of one and the fame flaroiir, at two different places ; every foil that produces wine, gives a diflin<5l tafte t-^ it. The vines, which are phntcd by thcnifclves like currant-buflie?, are fet in rows three feet from each other, and when they are pruned, are not »orc than two, or two and a half, feet above the ground. Tbey are planted in rows, and wot clofe to each other, 'in order Digitized by Google [ 59 1 We ftaid here for fomething more than half aa hour, and then purfuing our journey, we order to afford room for the labourers to go between theni| to weed the ground, M^ithout damaging the vines. A thoufand of thenii it is calculated* will produce a leager of wine, and fometiaoes more* Albertyn van de Klapmut£, had a vineyard clofe to his houfe, with fifty thoufand vi nep I ants, which yielded him annually feventy leagers of wine. The pteffiog of the grapes is performed in a more (imple manner here than in Europe. The (laves gather them, and put them into a velFel, the bottom and fides of which are bored full of holes ; this is fet in the infide of a larger one, upon a crofs- piece of wood laid at the bottom of the latter ; this outiidc TciTcl has a fpigot and faucet, through which the juice» as faft as it is preffed.out, runs into a tub placed beneath The grapes being heaped up, in the inner vefTcl, to the brim, three or four (laves, after having waihed their feet in a tub of water {landing at the fide, get upon the fruit, and holding themfelves faft by a rope fixed to the ceiling, trample upoa it, and fqueeze out the juice as loog as they are able. la the mean time the muit that runs out is put into large high vcfTcls to ferment. If the aperture be obftrufted by grapes, or ftalks, fo that the juice caunol ealiJy run out, they pulh them away with a (lick, to the end of w.uch, a few brufhes are fixed. The trodden grapes, before tbey are further prelf- ed, are put upon a coarfe ftrainer, made of rattans, on which they are rubbed with the hand, till the hulks go through it; the ftalks remaining behind, which are thrown away, as they are fuppofed to make the wine auftere and bitter. The hulks are then put into the fermenting vefTcl, which the next morn- ing is in full fermentation ; during this procefs the thick parts fubfidc, and the muft grows tlear, when it is barrelled Digitized by Google [ 6o ] wepaffed, fbmc time afterwards, the Keulfche^ m Cologni-vwcv. This, as well as many other ftreams in this country, little deferves the name of river ; for it was no more than a little rivulet, which could be paffed oa foot, ; yet Mr. van Wielingen affured me that it was fometimcs fwollen fo high, that the waggons and oxen were often obliged to tarry for feveral days, without being able to pafs it. At the Cape I was told by Mr. van Schoor, that the largeft rivers, fituated many days' journey inland» all run dry in the good monfbon, in Ja- nuary and February, although in the bad monfoon they were deep, rapid, and im- paflable ftreams, fb that the waggons were frequently obliged to ftay a fortnight before them. Mr. van Imhof had projected a plan for rendering them navigable, but it off» being firft filtered through a wicker bafket. The grounds remaining in the fermenting velfel, are afterwards put into a fquare vefTel pierced full of holes, and placed in a larger one witn a fpigot and faucet at the fide ; at the top there is a fcrew of woody or metal, by means of which the lafl drop of juice is preHed out from the huiks. From the dregs and huflws that remain ovtr from the laft preffing, brandy is di (til led. No yeafi is ufed for accelerating the fermentation* T. had Digitized by Google ( 6i ] bad heea demonftrated that it was whollj ipipraélicable. . Aiaout four o'clock in the afternooB, we came to the farm of Melk, which at a dif- taiice^ and indeed^ clofe by, appeared like a wiioie village* It lies among the moua- tains, upon the gentle declivity of a high ridge^ and on the banks of an ever-running ftream, which he has led, along his farm, between two brick walls, like a canal, and which turns a watermill, for the purpofe of grinding his corn* His dwcUing-houfe, which was of a con- fiderable lize, had four or five large and handfome rooms, all furnifhed in a neat^ and even in a coftly ftyle, ib that it more re- fembled a gentleman*s villa than the manfioa of a farmer. Twenty-five, or thirty, paces from the corners of the houfe, he had four large barns, or warchoufes, each one hundred and fifty feet long, in which he houfed his corn and wine. Two of them were now empty ; in the third were full one hundred and fifty leagers of wine ; and in the fourth fifteen or fixteen hundred muds of corn, twenty- feven of which make a Holland laft, and eighteea Digitized by Google [ éz ] eighteen alaftof the Cape ; each mud being calculated at one hundred and eighty, or ninety, pounds weight Amfterdam, according as the grain be heavy or light. Between thefe he had a blackfmiths' and carpenters' workfliop, and a cartwrights* manufaftory, together with other work- people, neceffary for fo large and trouble- Ibme a concern. But few of them were Europeans, the largeft number were orien- tal flaves, who had coft him a great deal of money. Among others, he fhewed me a flave, who underftóod fmiths' work, and making of tires on wheelbands, whom he had purchafed for fifteen hundred rixdol- lars, or three thoufand fix hundred gil- ders *. A little higher up, ftood a range of build- ings, calculated for the flaves, of whom he had full two hundred ; for he declared to me, that he did not know the exa6t nuni- ber. Every one had a feparate brick dwelling to fleep in. Thole that were married were kept apart from the others ; and every pof- * Upwards of 300/. fterliijg. T, fible Digitized by Google C ^3 ] fible precaution was taken to prevent acci« dents by fire. A little farther were two kraals^ or in- clofures for cattle ; they were furrounded by high ftone walls, of eight or ten feet, and contained each about two hundred and fifty acres. The flieep, the horfes, and the horn- ed cattle were confined at night in thefe, for fecurity againft the attacks of wild beafts, efpecially of wolves and tigers, who do not unfrequently make a great havocfc here; among the fmaller-fized cattle. He calculated the numbers of his (heep by thoufands ; and refpeéling his horned cattle, a fmall proof of the numeroufnefs of his herds, was his informing me, in a carelefs manner, and as if it were a circumftance of no con- fideration, that he had lo.ft one hundred and twenty head of cattle, a few days be- fore, by the difeafes called the klaauw and iongziekte *. There * Thefe difeafes of the cattle are peauliar to the Cape tf Gcod Hope, In the ilaatnvzUUe^ the hoofs of the cattle grow loofc, fo that they cannot walk ; it appears to proceed from the fummcr-bcats, efpecially if the oxen have been driven oa journies in the daytime ; it is thought infcftious, and whole droves Digitized by Google C 64 ] There were feveral other iinalier 'outhouses and offices, for various purpofcs, relative to the economy of the. farm. Befides droves are facceflively affeétcd by it ; it, however, in gene* ral, leaves the cattle, of its own accord, in the courfe of one or two weeks. In the iongzUkte^ veficles, or blad- ders> break out on the tongue, difcharging a thin ichorous matter; in confequence of this diftemper, the cattle cannot cat, but grow lean, and fometimes die ; the farmers are ac- cuftomed to rub the bladders off with fait. Befides thefe, the cattle are liable to other difeafes, which fometimes prove fiital- The ilaar^ or bloedziekte^ is a diforder, in which the veins all over the body become extremely turgid ; letting of blood and violent exercife are faid to be ferviceable in it ; the flelh of the cattle who die of it, is not eatable. The fponf%iekte begins by the fwelling of the foot, which proceeds by degrees t» the whole body ; this diforder fometimes lafls for three day9> but at other times proves fatal in 'as many hours; if the foot be taken off immediately, the creature's life may be faved : the flefli of fuch an animal is likewife not eatable : it feems to proceed from no other caufe than the bite of fome ferpent, or reptile, which, in this warm quarter of the globe, is but too common. The lamxiehte^ is when the cattle are not able to fland ; it comes on gradually, and is flow in its progrefs ; after the death of the animal, the bones of its legs are found to be without marrow, inftead of which they are filled with water. The horned cattle, as well as horfes, are atilifted with the flrangury, after feeding on the euphorbia genifioidesy which contains a milky juice, that does no injury to the fto- mach and bowels, but corrodes the bladder, and efpecially obftrudls the urinary parages ; if the penis be preflcd, this vifcid matter is Iqaeezcd out ; the peafants, therefore, either prefs Digitized by Google t 65 ] « Befides this, he was owner of feven or eight other farms, upon which he had placed ftewards, who managed them in his behalf, upon hire. Some of thele produced corn, fbme wine, and fome were (imply deAined for pafturage. With all this, Melk could neither read nor write ; but having a good memory, he had the whole in his head of what was neceflary for the due management of his cxtenfive concerns, for which any other would require a number of books, and a great deal of writing. He was a native^ of Prujfia^ and had ar- rived at the Cap^^ many years ago, in a very low ftation. Underftanding the burn- ing of lime, the making of bricks, and fbme- thing of agriculture, he had entered, as head-fervant, into the fervice of the former proprietor of this farm, but which, at that time, had not by far the fame extent as at prcfs it out, or with a ftraw pufli it back again. When the cattle are fupplicd with good and fre(h water, this difeafe cannot get the upper-hand ; but in fummer, when the water is thick and impure, fo that it cannot dilute the peccant matter, the cattle die. As a remedy for this diftempcr the far- mers give their cattle a teacup-full of powdered oftrich egg- flirik, mixed with vinegar. 71 VOL. II. r prcfentf Digitized by Gpogle I 66 I « prefentr When bis mafter iïcêp he mar- ried the widow (which does not unfre^ quently happen in this countrj), and extend-^ 'ing. his enterprtzes from day to day, he at. length obtained from the Company, the ex- clufive ferm for the fale off wine and Ipiritu- bus liquors» by which be cleared one hun- dredthonfaud gilders ^ in one year» chiefly by the arrivdt of the French fleet at the Caps. This enabled him t^ undertake flill more important objeéls» & that he once bought up all 'the wine produced in the country, which amounted to Ibme thoufands' of leagers. Thovgh this did not conduce to the benefit of the public^ yet it fufficientl ƒ £hews the (pipit of enterprize which animated the man% Two things in him excited, in particular,» both* my admiration and furprize. In the firft place, his Aeady love for his king, of whom he always fpoke with the deepeft re- fpcél and afFeétion ; he decorated the chim— ney pieces, and other parts of his houfe, with, the arms of his fbvereign, and cherifhed a fond attachment to his perfon. The other ^ * About 9000/. ftcrling. T. circumftance Digitized by Google f «7- J Cireumftance t allude to, was his gratitude towards his wife> by whofe means, he iii<^ variably declared^ he had become the man he was ; he would not iuffer her to be put to the leaft trouble in any thing, however trifling; and was anxious that (he fhould live entirely at her eafe, and take every divcrfion in her power t he even took upon himfelf the care of managing the houfes, fo that his wife had her time entirely to herfelf» Finding that he ipoke with much in* telligence, refpe£ling the fituation of the country, as I, in fa£t, had before been in- formed was the cafe, I afked him his opi- nion of the plan at prefent in agitation, of exporting the produce of the Cafe to Hol- land. He aifured me, that this would, ia. time, be of great benefit to the colony, and moft probably alfb to the Company; but that to efFed this purpofe, other means muft be put in praélice, and better arrangements made> than had hitherto taken place. In the firft place, he (aid that the Com*- pftny ought to ere£l ftorehoufes in various parts, where* the produce of the country could be received, from time to time^ when F 2 the Digitized by Google I 68 } the farmers had opportunities of conveymg it from their farms, to thofc places, in the good feafon, or as foon as the hafvcft was got in, in January and February ; for the rivers and roads were at that time the cafieft. paflable : whereas the conveyance was otherwife both difficult and expenfive : and that the corn would ftand the Com- pany in much lefs, if this method were ^opted. Further, that the tithes, which the Com- pany exaÖed of the corn grown, were of detriment, inftead of producing an advan- tage for the farmers ; who, for inftance» grew five hundred muJs of corn, only de^ clared one hundred, which they fold at a high rate, while the other, four hundred were difpofed of ^at a much lower price under the hand, by indireft means, in order to avoid payment of the tithes *• That ♦ Van Renen told me, that the thhcs on the wine were calculated at three rixdoHars per leager. That further, the Company's iiuties confided in two and a half per cent on the fale of imqioveable property ; but that buildings ere receive, orrejeöit, at their own good pleafure *. And finally, that the land all round the above bays, was very fit for the produdion of corn ; nay, better t;han in other piurts s lb that one mud fbwn, commonly yielded an encreafe of iixty or feventy, while, at moOt other places, between ten and twenty, and fometimes thirty, mtuls was the ufiial har« yeft from one muJ of feed. That the Com- pany would doubtlefs be able to pvrcbaic wheat there at one rixdoUar per mudi whereas they now paid eighteen, twenty, and fometimes twenty-four, rixdoll^rs per cartload often muJs, becaufe the con veyance by wheel-carriage is fo expenfivc to the farmers, that they could not do it at all, * Van Wiblingev was of opinioD, that if the Com* ^any would allow a fociety of ten, or a. dozeo, farmers^ of fome property, to be forinedy for the purpofe of undertaking the cultivation of the land at ü^s/c/r-Bay ; who^ without having any thing to do with the iheriff of the diftridy might take as many Hottentots into their fervice as they liked, and pay them what wages they could mutually agree upon» with- out his interference ; the beneficial effefts of fuch a meafure would fpccdily be pcrcdved. Digitized by Google ! 7t 3 If Aey did not receive the above prices |>er cartload K I fhould have Uked to have ftayed a little longer with diis man^ that I might procure further information from him on thefe inte- refting tqpics ; but it was evening, and we had to ride a good hour before we could i-each the place where we were to pais the night. We left Meuc's eftate about half paft five o^clock, and at half paft (ix^ we came to Ai.B£RTTn's farm, lying at the foot of a mountain^ called de Kiapmuts^ where We paiTed the nights I found in this farmer unadulterated na- ture. Sincerity^ frieiidlinefs, and benevo- lence, were the amiable qualities of himfelf, his wife, his two ibns^ and two marriageable daughters. They laid before us the beft of what they had, and the ingenuous cordiality of thefè happy and unoffending children of nature, feemed to me a true pHSlurc of the period whence ^ The hh\xng poets took their goldea age;** * Db Vosy together with other farmers whom i conv«rfed with on the fubjeét, told me the fame thing ; alfo, thac every cartload k reckoned at thirteen hundred pounds weight. F 4 when Digitized by Google [ 72 ] when humanity and benevolence reigned in the earth, and falfity and deceit were unknown. I could not fufficiently admire the fincerc, the artlejfs, afFcAion which manifefted itfelf in the father, mother, brothers, and lifters, and formed the felicity of the whole family ; an afFeöion, which, however ftrongly diöated by nature, and en- forced by religion, we may often feek for in vain among our European countrymen. Haupy, thrice happy mortals, who, lituatcd at the extremity of the globe, amidft the wilds of Africa, formerly fo barren and de- folate, though now fertilifed and embelliflied by your labour, can lead a life of content and innocence ! I was frequently fb wrapped up in thefe thoughts, that I fcarcely heard what was faid to me. Ttie next day, at nine o'clock in the morning, we left this agreeable place, to ride on to Stellenbofcby where we arrived at ten. This is a pleafant village, confifting of forty or fifty hou fes, built along two broad ftreets, which are planted with trees on both fides. The church, which ftands at the north end of the village, is a fmali but neat cdilice. Digitized by Google I 75 -3 edifice, having fufficient room for a congre- gation of full two hundred people : a cir- cular fpace round it, walled off, is the churchyard, and the entrance is through a handfome iron-gate. A minifter, a clerk, and a fe\toii, belong to this church. The houle of the landdrojl^ or IherifF, of Stellftihofch^ which office was then filled by Mr. Bergh, deferves equally to be taken notice of, on account of its fpacious and ha/idfome apartments. After having walked through the village, and ftoppv-^d for about half an hour at the houfe of Mr. V'ion, we proceeded, at eleven clock, for the farm of the widow Groen- en w A ld, lying a (hort half-hour's ride to the northeaft, at the foot of a range of mountains, which make here a hollow, or. cul'di-faCy called Jan Jmkerjhoek. We dined here, and about two oclock fct out again for Hottentot Holland. Our way led us firft back through Stellenbofch^ and then to the fouth, over feveral ridges, which are high enough to deferve of them- felves the name of mountains, but which were low in comparifon to the towering Ipmmits of thofe on our left band, which were, Digitized by Google t 74 ] werct for » great part, covered witli more. Having proceeded full a quarter of ai> hour ibuth from Stellenbofcb^ we pafied the firfty or Stelknbofeb^ river, .This runs, with a rapid ftream, over a bed of large pebbles, wlucb have, from time to time, being wafli- ed down from the mountains, by the torrents. Notwithftanding its rapidity, it is very fiial- low^ for in fording it, the water did not rife higher than the knees of our horfes. Thence the road led along fbme unculti- vated fpots, till, at half pafl: four o'clock, we reached a large and deep hollow, which is called bet Moddergat^ or the Mudbole. In it lay feven farms ; which produced much wine, and but very little corn. About half paft five o'clock, riding round the foot of the Heldere^ or Clear ^ Mountain, we entered Hottentot Holland^ and prefently afterwards we came to the &rm of De Vos. Hottentot Holland is a fiat country, and has derived its name from its refemblance, in this refpcö, to our own* It lies within a range of hills, that fur« round it on the north, eaft, and fouth. To the weft, a fiat fax)dy beach, of full half a Dutch Digitized by Google I 7J ] Putch mile in breadth» extends along the fideofFj^-Bay. I .computed this tn£i of country to be about four Dutch miles in circumference ; it contains eight farms, or cultivated ijpots of ground. In the beginning of this century. Gover- nor VAN PER Stel had appropriated to himfelf. the \viiole of this diftriél, or had granted fome parts of it to his particular favourites, among which was one parfbn S ' ■ t of whom it was faid, by old people, who had known him in their youth, that he laboured with more zeal in extending and ^Dproving his vineyards and cornfields upon earth, than the fpiritual vineyard to which his vocation ought to have rendered him more attentive. , He was once preaching at the Cafie, and hearing feveral carts ride by the church, he fuddenly flopped in the middle of his fermon, and called out to the clerk, " Pri- " thee, my friend, look out, and fee whether *' that is my wine which is going by." The objeft of Mr. van der Stel was, that all the corn and wine wanted by the Company, fhould, in time, be only furniOied by him, or his minions and dependants, that, by Digitized by Google [ 76 1 by that means, the colonifts might be im*» poverifhcd ; his maxim being, that people in a flate of indigence and dependence, are the eaficft to be governed *. The farm of I>e Vos was the place where we intended to pafs the night ; it is, in faéi", the firft that occurs on entering Hottentot Holland from the fide of Stellenbofch. Al- though it was already dark, and five of us came together, for a fon of the widow Groenen WALD had joined us, in order to Ihew us the way, wc received a hearty wel- come from this hofpitable counti'yman, and were foon as eafy and familiar together, as if we had known each other our whole lives. Wc obferved no derangement, or extraor- dinary buflle in the family, on account of ie * Since tlic abufc of authority by Governor van der Stel, and by feveral others of the Company's fcrvantSi they ,have been ftri(ftly prohibited from holding any farms. In lieu thereof, feveral pcrqwifites have been allowed them ; fuch as the dfptnjier^ or puryeyoir, five percent on ai| wares import- ed or exported, the coUeé^or hai two and a half per cent op the monies, the ftorekeeper four, the commiiTary of the hofpi- tal five, and the infpedor of the auélions five per cent» on al( goods fold by au£lion ; and ail this, bedde their ufual monthly idlary. So that it is only fome few of the higher people in office that have a fmall villa for their pleafure near the Ca^c, but wlience no commodities may be carried out, or difpofötl of. r. many Digitized by Google [■77 ]^ many unexpeöcd guefts. A good fupper of nine difhes, and comfortable feparate beds for each of us, proved that we were not the firft who had experienced the hofpitality of thefe honeft people. . As the chief inducement for my making this little cxcurfion, was to obtain fom« knowledge of the fituation, and the produce of the country, as well as to difcover what could conduce to the furtherance of the plan óf tlje Company in agitation, before alluded to, and on which head 1 was fure of procur- ing much better, and more impartial, . inform mation from the country people, than from the Company's fervants at the Cape, I equally made particular enquiries concern- ing the fame of this De Vos, who appeared to me to be a man of found judgment. What Melk had told me the day before^ gave me an opportunity of making my en- quiries with greater exaólnefs. Without, however, that I named the pther, De Vos told me the fame that he had done with re- fpe£l to Mufcle and Saldanba Bays, equally from his own experience, having been at both places feveral times. He added, that, in particular, at Mu/cle-Bdiy, there was much excellent corn-ground, and that there were Digitized by Google rf 7» 1 were fields, which would admit of an htin« dred muds of feed*com being fbwn in one patch, without any intervention of barren or unprofitable foiK He thought, likewile, that there was a: iafe birth for fhips in the bay, where they might even be fheltered from the e.s.e» wind ♦• * This harbour, though nuher opett to the aifteriy winds, and not reforted to by ihtpi except in cafes of neceffi^, might» in many refpefts, prove very ufefiil were It bettef known. SPAtaMAK informs us, that there is a good fandy bottom for anchoragey and a fmall creek or inlet to the fouth- we{^, with depth of water fufficient for a ihip, and a rill of freih water runniag into ft. On the north fide of the bay» there is a flat Ibore» where boats may appproach with fafety» In the journal of the voygge of the Dutch admiral P. vaK CAEKDEit, there is an account of the firft difcovery of this bay; that commander returning in i6oi| with two fliips, from' the Indies, caft anchor on the 8th of July here, to repaiP' one of fbon efftls that was very kafy^ and bad loft a great part ofber fieathing; they found no other refrelhments than water and mufcle!», and hence they gave the bay the name of Mtifik^Bay ; they left it on the 14th, after having completed the farpofesfor wcbieb tbtf entered it : thefe veffels coafied along from this pkce to the Cape ef Good Hope^ and likewife call anchor^ in, and /jSiVc names to, Fee/ih or Fle/i Bay, and Pl/cb or FiA Bay, calling them from the nature of the fupplies of provifions they obtained in each» The narrow policy of the Dutch £aft*In-» dia Company has always been direéled to prevent the true fituation of the wliole of this coaft from becoming known* Little, Digitized by Google [ 79 ] In riding hither^ I had obferved that there was a large inlet of the iêa before the diftriél of Little, therefore^ can with cartainty be faid of it j but if fccur© harboun be «lifcovered along it, the benefits to be derived from them would be very important. Farther to the eaftward, is A^^ or BUttaAtr^^^ Bay, which, though it is only an open road, is fpacious, and affords good anchorage for the largeft ihipsi Sheltered from the northeaft, weft, and fouth winds | there b plenty of frefli water, the bay abounds in fifli, and the rocks ait corercd with excellent oyflers. The fineft timber grows in the neighbourhood of thefe bays ; and if, inftead of having it brought by land-carriage to the Cmpe^ a navigataon were eflabliihed, the difference would be immenfe, both to the fellers and to the buyers. Among the various forts of timber, either unknown» or extremely rare in Europe, the following; abound here, viz. gteUmUy or ydlow wood {IUm cr9cw\ which is of a yellow c of articles for trade, aélually to be met with, or eafy to be introduc- ed into this country, none but its corn and wine have hitherto made any figure in the records of commerce. Peas, beans» and butter, indeed» are fometimes exported to the Indies : thefarmers» who have a tolerable ihare of paihire-ground, make from 3,000 to 3,joo/^* of butter annually, which they carry to the Cape in one or two joumles, and difpofe of it to the town's people at from three to fix flivcrs per pound, who refell the greatefl part to the fhips at a profit of from 20 to 100 per cent. The wool of their fheep, though extremely coarfe, has» in one or two inftances, been manufaélured into common cloth, and might per- haps be brought into ufe for the confumption of the country peo* pie. An inconfiderable quantity of oil is procured from the feah and penguins, which abound in the neighbourhood of the Cape^ and the (kins of the former are much ufed in the colony ; but the fpermaceti, and piher whales» which are efpecially remark- ably numerous in St, Helena and Saldanha Bays, have hitherto been wholly neglected. An article» however» which has of late been exported from the Cape, is gum aloe ; it is procured from the leaves of the alêè petfitiata^ which is very abundant in many parts of the country: Pbtbr de Witt, a farmer IHU living» was the firft who prepared this gum here» and he« Q % in Digitized by Google \ f «4 I Th« nest day, being Sunday, the t4th of* Julyt we left De Vos*s at nuie o'clock ia the fnoriiing, in canfb^Haiée, ebtainc^ the exelvfiTt privilege of 4di^ftni^ k t» Ifae Gomp$ny^ Whence the quantity produced has al#ay« keen fmall i the jtuce^ tapped fioni the leaves» generally yield» onè-tMrd of rolld gum ; it h packed in wooden boxes, eon*» taining from three to &ve tmti. and is fold at the Cafi for three and fbor ftivers per pound. The Gape aloe is nnore tr&nlpaien^ and equal, if not fuperior, in quality^ to tfaofe forts» Mi im* der the denominations of aloe fuccotrinet and abe hepatka* Almonds are iikewife produced here, and ait bought by the Slips' officers to carry for fale to Bmtavia. Tobacco is foaie- tifties cuktvated by the planten for their own ufe^ and hemp by the Hottentots» for the purpofe of (moaking, mftead of the former; but sdthm* have ever been^thought of as articles of mde. The wax-Arubs (s^tm fmrfiUm^ and fürdjfêUm) ütford k fubft^iTce refembling bees'- wax ; the berries of them, which wt quite black» are covertd withagreyifli powder : they jure gathered when ripe» in the month of March» and boiled till this white ponder is melted» and floats on the furface of the «'ater» like fet ; this, when Ikimmed off and cooled» grows kird» and refembfes grey, impure wsu^; it is ufed by the br* mers for candles» whrch burn better than thofe made of tallow : Might not the ufe of it become more extended ? From the jm* ^a nihiica gum ars^bic might be colleAcd. The caitophor*tree {laurus camfbtrm) has been brought here firom the Eaft-Indies» and has thriven very well» yet no pains have been taken to encreafe the number^ or to colteék any camphor. Tunneric (ntcumet hng») might be cultivated iiere» for it iè found in the Company's garden. The mulberry-txee {mojrus 9igra) flouriihe»; and might not filkworms be reared here? The oir^e-tree {plea Eufopea) is common on the hills near the town^ and in other places» growing wild ; its frnit is faid feldom to come Digitized by Google r «5 3 lAoming, and rede on to Vergehegen f far-fitu- ated)t that famous feat» fofmerly laid out» in come to maturity : Will not cultivation and care 9^\^f this? OrchiUa-weed may alfo be procured at the Cufe^ which has otbervife been exclufively imported from the Canaries, but it lias not hitherto been fought after, and perl^ps it i> very little known ihat it does exift here* indig^cr^s of feveral forts are jeniimerated amon|; its prodaétionS| by the different botanUb wlio have explored this country ^ but the manu&Aure of in« 4igo has never been attempted. We have the «ffiirance of La Vai|.LaKT, that in the diftriA of fr4f9eam^ othenrife called that QStbcfêÊÊT'tami'iwintj'riwrSf indigOt as weU as fugar and cotton, might be cultivated with (uccefs: in this diftri^. be* fides com add wine» the pbnters have engaged in the raifing for the Cape markety where they have &o competitors, alt kinds of fruit, lemon% oranges, limes, ihaddocks, figs, pome- granates, fee. they are fold at four, S^roiand fix, rixdoUars the hundral, und are eagerly purchafed. Though this is one of the «loft fertile and pleaiant parts of the colony, it is but thinly inhabited, and contains no more than forty or fifty farms; much land in it lies wafte : the rivers which traverfe it M into the B^^nytr» and this into the tay of St. Helens^ at its ibuthem part. By theie channels, the produce of this diilriA, together with that of the neighbouring one of Zmart^ im^ might be canied to the bay, where there is good anchor*» age for Ihipping, and where it would be eafy to efiabliih re- pofitories, whence the paflage by fea to the Cape would be quick and eafy. S and the view w^ now only bounded by the high mottatains of Smon^s^B^Ly and the weft ihore. Along the back of the houfe ftood a row of very high and large camphor- trees, which, with their evergreen foliage, afforded a pleafant fummer pro(pe£^, even in winter* The leaf of this tree refembles, in fome meafure, that of the orange and bay-tree» and has the fame glofly green hue ; it is, however, much fmaller : when taken in tht mouth, or bruiied between the fingers, it has a ftrong cam. horated tafle and (mell. The wood of the tree is ufed for all kind$ of cabinet-work, and, when polifhed, is of a light brown colour, with black veins ; but it is fold at a dear rate. The dwclling-houfe, not to fey any thing of the other buildings, as flave-houfes, ware-, houfes, ftables, &c. is a handfome edifice, though of only one ftory (as, in fa£t, all the countryhoufes here are, as well as moft of the houfes at CapetüwnJ^ with a long and broa4 gallery, which is the fitting and eating-room of the family, and many large apartments 00 each fide. The garden, the buildings, and the planta-r tiohSj Digitized by Google { 89 3 tions, all bare very evident ligns of the mag^ luficcnce and wealth of the founder» who fpent large fums of money upon this fpot ) but every thing is now much decayed» at the fucceeding proprietors did not poflefs the iame means as Mr. van oek, Stbl» to keep it in proper repair* The Laurens-tlvtr^ the largeft and moft rapid which we had met with in this littlo excurfion, runs juft without the woods be* longing to this eftate. We had to crois it twice, and for want of brjdges» which are a convenience unknown in this country, we forded it on honeback, the water reaching up nearly as high as our (addles. Having taken a view of every thing» as well as the ihortnefs of time would admits we rode away at eleven o'clock, and in half an hour we returned to the farm of Ds Vos I whence, after having dined, and heartily thanked our friendly entertainer,^ we took our departure at half paft one o'clock. At four, we rodis paft StelUnbofcb^ and at half paft fix, we came to Albert Yi^'s farm, near the Klapmuis^ where we took up opr night's lodging. The next morning» about nine o'clock, . we Digitized by Google [ 90 ] we left thefe honeft and hofpitablef people, on our return to the Cape^ dined by the way upon bread and butter and a gla(s of wine, in the open air, not far from T/^^r- Valley, on the banks of a little rivulet, and in the middle of a grove of low trees, and arrived at the town, at half paft four o'clock, in the afternoon. I was informed, upon ray arrival, by MrJ Hemmy, that the muftering of my crew, and^ difpatch of my veffel, would take place . on Friday next, the 29th of July*. On * No more than fifcecii days had thus elapfed, from the time of my arrival in ^//wö«'s-Bay, to that of my difpatch, in which the crew had to refrefli thcmfelves, and recover from the fatigues of a long and boi(leroiis paflage. It may eafily be conceived, that their bodies could not, in fo (hort a time» be fully divefted of the bad humours, and fcorbutic matter, which had been accumulated in them, in the conliderable fpace of time they had been on board, namely, from the 6th of Janu- ary, the day I received them at Rammcktns, till the 13th of July ; and this was very apparent afterwards, when I was at fca ; for in a few days, the ufual fliips' difeafes manifefted themfelves on board; as likewife continued 'fevers, which were immediately follovved by a total proftration, ariQng from the impure flate of tiTc whole frame, and the corruption of the fluids ; thefe fevers were alfo accompanied by the fcurvy, which foon likewife made its appearance. It is true, that the moft and worft (icknefs occurred among thofe of my crew, who had been fent, for a few days, as a help, on board Digitized by Google [ 91 3 On Wednefday, the. 27th, I rode in the forenoon to the Company's garden called board of the ihip P-— « ; this reflel had arrived at the Cape^ with eighty (ick ; cieaniinefs Teemed to hive been very little attended to on board of heri for die was between the decks fo choaked with fikh, that fome of my officers ailured me, they iiad never feen fo much, dirt, not even on board of any French ifaip. Though it is probable, that my men wereinfef^ed by the lick of this vefle], it is, however, reafonable to conclude, that their bodies were not in a perfect (late of health, nor their fluids wholly purified, or this contagion could never have fpread fo rapidly among them. I fliould, therefore, be of opinion, that the outwardbound (hips fhould fiop longer at the Cape^ and flay there four weeks, indead of a fortnight, in order that by a proper length of time to refreih, the bodies of the failors might be cleanfed of their accumulated peccant matter. Returning thus on hoard in good health, and with renewed (Irength, they would not only be able to cope with the fatigues of the remainder of the voyage» but arriving in the Indies, with a hale* and healthy fnune ef body, they would, in fome meafure, be able to with- iland the firft attacks of the unwholefome climaie. It may, perhaps, be objeéled to this, that the additional charges to be incurred by a longer day, ^vouid confiderably cncreafe the fhip's expences. But this is of little importance, fi>r the articles of refreiliment procured at the Cap£, do not cofl much ; my Ihip, the Ouwerkerkj confumed during her flay : 4>7o8 pounds of freih meat, amounting, at t;i pen- nings (4-' of a ftiver, or penny) per pound, lo/. 80 18 8 40 auttfi of wheat, for baking, at /.J j y^ per miui ^34. 13 S ƒ.313 la o Thus a fhip flaying half a month longer, would only ex- pend twice that fum. New/ana^ Digitized by Google t M ] NewUnd^ which it about one Dutch mile 'and a half from the Cape, where the govern nor» Mr. VAN Plbttsnberg» then was, in order to take leave of his excellency. On the following Saturday, the Com- pany's hoy, the NtptuM,^ con^nanded by Captain de Haas, came to an anchor in ffii^/^-Bay, This veflel had left the harbour on the 20th of May, with goods for F^fe* Bay ; when at fea, fhe had been overtaken by a violent ftorm, and driven upon the reef of Anguillas^ where ihe continued to fwerve about till the 2 ad of June ; dfs. Some had their üfüal ^«' and natural evacuations, others hone at'alL *? Their urine was fomeWhat tufbid, yêl- !*4öWiib, Digitized by Google t 99 3 ** lo^iÜh, tmd -vcryjiharp. In the tegiilüing> ^^ the tongue 'was whliiih» bui af ter wand 5 «covered 'with a brown coat, land with "a '^* black' dime over the teeth. In the night, "^^ they were very reftlcfs, and generally de- *** lirious. Some had violent retching on the ** {econU day, and brought up a blackiih *^ matter ; yet the patients felt no eafe from *vit, but experienced a great degree of ♦•anxiety, accompanied by profuie perfpim* ** .tion. On the third day they got a hic-^ ♦♦ cough, with a coldnefs of the extremities ; **'{bme bled, at the :fame time, copioufly ***from thenofc; and, at kft, th<;yloft^the **;powcr óf retention of their urine and ex- ^•'crements, which they voided involunta* '^-rily-; 'their evacuations wei;e of a dark ** brown colour, and intolerably 'fetid ; «t •* laft, a profufe cold and clamrny fweat ** came upon them, at which time they died. " I examined'fbme of them, after they were ** dead, who were full of purple blotches, **^ on the breaft'and face; I faw two, who •* had a blaokifli ipot, of the fuse of two ** handbrcadths, ' along and under the fliort ^ribs, at the place where the liver lies, ^* which is a certain fign of the entire mor- H 2 ^* tification Digitized by Google C ïoo ] ^ tificatibn of that part ; and thefê bodies ** were fo putrid, that they could not be '* kept on board half an hour after the de- ^^ ceafe. Some of the patients, who had •* immcdiktely complained, or given them* •• fclves in as fick, got, on the fifth, or •* feventh, day of their illiiefs/ a diarrhaa ; •' which in fbme was critical, or, favourable, •* and in others fymptomatic, or incidental : •• the diarrhoea critica feldom lafted longer •' than three or four days ; they voided a *^ quantity of dark brown and blac]^ifh mat- ** ter, and the fever then left them entirely ; " thefe patients were far gone in a decay of ** ftrength, and the worft was, that they •• continually relapfed, even four or five ** times : three times were the ufual run : «' and by thefe continual relapfes, many •« were alfo attacked by the fcurvy, by ^< which fcveral of them died. Tbofc who ** got a diarrhosa Jymftomaticaj had a vidcnt ** colic, together with very fetid and loole <^ (lools, fometimes accompanied by the eva- <* ciiation of a (limy matter, with ftreaks of ** blood running through it. Some of thefe •' patients were attacked by a violent vomit- " ing, hiccough, and convulfions, and, laftly, « they Digitized by Google €4 • [ lOl ] '^ they fell into a profufe cold and clammy ♦• fweat, in which they died. Few of thofe ♦* who had the dtarrhcea fymptomatica re* ** covered, except when the lymptoms were not very violent. Some had their crilis, or rather metaflaiis, with a fwelling *^ behind the ears, upon the bread, or *^ ihoulders, which changed to a fuppuration, ♦* whereby they were cured. Others again ^ felt violent pains in the fhoulders, knees, •* or feet, which, after having lafted two . *^ days, left them, and they recovered. *> Thofe who tried to keep up, and waited ** two or three da}'S before they gave them- ^^ felves in as patients, almoft all died within *' the fourth day after they came under my ^* care» Thefe were, in general, full of ** puftulous fpots, and half an hour after their <* deceafc, the abdomen turned quite black, ] ** which is a certain (ign of an entire morti- ) " fication of all the vifccra of the belly* ^ *^ From the time of its commencement, till •* the 2d of Oélober, when it ceafed, twenty* ^* nine men died of this difeafe, befide thofe " who were carried off by the fcurvy, and ^^ other diforders/* \ attribute this dreadful epidemic to no H 3 othci; Digitized by Google #tfccf catire^ tha*i tltet my healthy mtn^ whom I übnt) as abovemcot:ioo«d^ a^'.a.b^p^ ofi board of the (hip P » caught the in^ foöioQ there; oTpeQially fiaco the mdiviw duals; who had been on board of her, iwero tiie firft who were attacked by it.. Tho prevaleace. of this: ficknefc oocaüoocd ib much difmay among thofe who* remained in healthy that they imagined that the fliip was infefied with the plagiw, aiid I bad the greateft dif5cuUy to convinc«\ them^ and efpecially my officer-s, of thje coatrvy^ by daily going rayf^lf to yiflt tJ>Q fick, to fee th»t they were properly treated, and to. en^ courage and ccnible the popi? iutFerers^ aa much as lay io n*y pow^F, The failor^ who had been m\ich ait &a, were the laft who were attacked by this diiorder, and they, for th^ moft part, ve* covered* . . * By this dregful and mab'gnant difêafe, as well as by the iciir\7, I loft forty- two loen of my crew in September, and at the clofe of that month, I had ftill qne huQdred and eight confiiied by ficknef^. In this fituation, fo diftrcfsful to me, wc fcarcely knew how to proceed. The fursreon Digitized by Google [ w 3 , ^^l^^i>4 lus. mates ^l^^^i in t)^!r powjSf^ a^ whf^tey^r ^^t opiUd devife, ^ccof ding tp tj^r bpijt abfUties, to. {^ t\^p 9f9gf^ikof\ thci difeafe ; but it may e^/ily be^qpo^dve^ t^ty ^hq:c the number w;e^ ^ gr^lt tbey covld iiot mx^d to evc[ry ladividu^l^ witl), tha^ e^^'- tifQ fplicMe, w.hiciü the nature o^ t^e 4^r tfipper fee^toed particuls^rly tp require. ]^l|des tbi% thofe medicines whicl^ were^ thfi ijtioft ngceflary^ were foon confuroed i and what is a moft (hameful negleéi in the equi{Hii<}nt of the Comptan^i's.^ips^ at lead at ^iq chapiber of ^eaü^if^ ^ I experience4 iji ^yfelf ia bot)i my voyages» tl^jj^i v^ag not 9, fingle drop of white w^ine- vinegar tp be found po, bo^^d^ which» in ^heie. cafes» is ap article of the utmo(l nc^ceility» and ye^ perhaps» it i% charged in account to the Qoinpany« j^ipwev^r it be» this is certain, tl^t the want of it vf.a^^ thq oqca^qn that niapy pfourfjq^ died» ' * Notwithftanding all this» we yet thought, ourflbl ves fortunate, that we met w ith ^ne wea» tber» in i;unning down through the fbuthern latitudes^ fo that th^ gratings and airholes c^ld al\yays remain open» by which the cQntamioation p^ tl^ air was greatly mode* H 4 rated i Digitized by Google r IC4 ] rated; while, on my part, I took cipecial care that the (ick-ward, which was, " as ufual, between the firft and fecond decks, was kept clean and neat* The air in it was continually refrefhed and renewed, by the opening of the port- holes, and by a coolfail, made like a fuimel, in the manner of M. du Hambl ; and at night, when this could not be done, for fear ^of accidents, the ventilators were kept con- flantly at work, I allowed no water to be made life of in cleaning it out, that the moifture might not contribute to encreafe the contagion ; and on the other hand, daily fumigations were made with juniper-berries and frankincenfe, likewife by burning of gunpowder, and pouring of vinegar on red-hot bullets. The cribs of the fick were fprinkled with vinegar, and the patients were direded to wa(h their hands and faces, and rinfe their ' mouths with it, every morning. Their viftuals confifted, one day, in mut« ton-broth, with lemonjuice ; the next, iq rice-porridge ; and the third, in bread and beer, with wine ; and in the morning they bad grouts, with Spanifh wine. Tbofe Digitized by Google I ^05 1 Thofê who recavered were put to a fcpa* rate mefs and tbcfe were allowed, for the firft ten days, nothing but fpoonmeat, peeled barley, and peas, without their ration of pork or beef, becaufe their ftomachs were much too weak to digeft thefe laft. It al(b appeared, that thofe who had eat a little pork or beef in fecret, fell immediately ill again. To fuch as remained in health, I gave every day a quartern of wine (which they did not receive elfe but three times a week), and I caufed bitters to be put into their ufual morning and evening drams, in order to oppofe, as much poflible, the commence- ment of corruption. Our fouthern navigation was very good ; we met with no bad weather of any confe- qience, but the winds were almoil always too flack, to admit of a quick palfage, although it was in the winter-feafon, in thefe latitudes. When, on my former voyage, I pafled this way, in the month of January, which is here the middle of iumm r, we met with much harder winds, and often with violent ilorms, during which we were frequently obliged Digitized by Google I \o6 1 obliged to Ke by» which did; nob (uico^^ppen ihiB tifflc^ On tjbe. idi of September» Vi the after^ 900U, . we thought that w^e fi^w: the iflandi AmfierJam.i but c4 ^^ft Ca(li^9^ corroborated the gonjeöurc» Upon confideriog. thefe cii:cuniftaiQce% we determined to bear away foü theXoMS if the Eendragt»^ in iVlw Holland^ in order, to coned our ceckoniog, and to fteer for th« ifipnd of 3^i7s;/7» ib. aa to 6iLL it) with* it^ to the eailwa,rd of the Straits pf Sunéê^^ But wc were ife-uörated in. oux bppeak Qi5 feeing this land, by the ibutheaft tradewind^ which we now met with, and which, car-» fied us too far to leeward ; wberefoue, on the 25th of September, we changed our courfe to N.£. and bore away afterwar^ds ijOk a northerly track, availing hkewife of th?. variatioo Digitized by Google t ^ 1 wiaiiop a£' thp aompa&t. ia order to g^t to the. e«ft ward oi tlie Sb-£^its of Sunda ; fyr l founds by feyeral jpiiraals, that there was 4 variation of zi^ north,, at the ea{^ end of ^ava^ and by tny own experience I kneu; thait there wa$ np variation a^ a}l at th9 Strai $ of Sunda^ On the 26th of that month, we pa0ed the latitude in which the Trial s Rocks 9^te^ laid dp.wn. On »hi| 4th pf 0£lober, a large bunch of green weed floated by the fhip, ^nd the aej(t day> half an hour before funrife, we dii^ covered the £b,uth coaft of J^iu, The part w^hich we faw; ihewed: like 4 very long idand, fi^naingly about eight or nine leagues ia length, and appeariftg to ftretch out to the northeaft^^^rd, mofUy la an equal direélioa, and of a moderate l^ight» The weft point s^ppeared craggy qnd brokeQ» and the eaft point run gradually round in a circular fliape^ this was the i0an4 c^ed Naufa. Bartm. Juft after eight ' o'alock in the morouig> we faw, a little to the wedward of thi$ land, the fpiry Cummit of a monntaio^ which appeared abfitve the clouds» and lopkr ed Digitized by Google [ io8 3 cd of a blue colour, but underneath, we could not fee any land : this mountain was higher than any one I had ever feen. The land which appeared afterwards, during this day, was high, bare, and ftonr, with a rocky (hore ; and in lome places Ihoals and rocks, which feemcd to extend about a league from the land. The next day, at eight o'clock, a.m. wc thought wc faw the Hoorn/hoofd^ or thtHorn^ being a high mountain, io called, n.£. by N. from us. The coaft was ftill higher, and equally bare ; but, a little before noon, we perceived fbme trees upon the tops of the hills. At half paft two o'clock, p.m. wc were abreaft of a large opening, which feeméd to run far inland, and appeared to us to be the mouth of a river. The land ihewed here in four ridges, lying behind each other, rifing gradually higher, in pro- portion as they were morq inland, aAd all of them being wholly covered with thick woods. At four o'clock we faw ^ building clofe to the fhore, which looked like a fort i this edifice, together with fome habitations ^ which we faw adjacent to it, I then thought conftituted the old city of Mataram,^ at Icaft . the Digitized by Google t 109 3 the obfervation of the Hoorn/boofi^ and éit diftance we. had fince failed along the coaft, indicated as much ; but his excel* lency, Governor van der Parr a, told me afterwards that that city lay farther in- land» At eight o'clock we had foundings in one hundred and twenty-five fathoms, blueifli clay. At night, having little or no wind, we made no progreis, but floated about without any determinate diredlion. • At daybreak the next morning, being the 7th of Oft ober, we could but juft fee the land, and I according fteered again diredly for it. At eight o'clock, wjc difcovcred a very low coaft, which began. at a middling elevated point, where the high land termi- nated. This low land was entirely covered with trees, among which we perceived feveral groves of cocoa-nut, and areca trees, the üiore was bordered by a white beach, againft which the iea rolled Without in- terruption. At ten o'clock, we few, among the woods, a very high tree,which fpread out its branche» very far, and appeared, at a diffamce, like a beacon ; Digitized by VjOOQIC t «ïö 1 / 'beacon ; lUid 'from 'the hiaAbeaH we'^flttcetfjK -nê fever tl iiiegrces» or ^^illages. \ We «here ikw high land again» th&agh the low land continued ail along 4)cfore -it, till three o^clock» "p^m. ivhdn "we "again :&w nothing but lb w land wifh trees* We bailed 'along the (hore, from eigUt o'clock. Am. till funfet, iat the diflaiice df e Ieague,ovcr the depth of thirty 'or forty fathoms, black &xidy:ground, like fine'giüi* ^wder. The land which we^bcheld in the morn- ing of the ^ eighth bf ÖÖober, Ihcwcd >lifce ■a double rüitge of broken 'hills, of a mid* *dling height* Shortly afterwards we law *the ap]5earance of ati ifland, in the n.n.w. on each fide of which there was a deep ^inlet, with high mountains 'inland; we con- 'ceived that thefe wtrcMjaurice and Diri de Vties Bays» We irkewile faw a high cape, •and land K.w. by k^ which, at three o'clock, •l^^M. bore due north ^ from us. .Juft beyond, and eaft of this cape, lay a rock above water, 'tipón 'whicli the' lea broke. • " -Hence 'the c6aft ftretched, as far as we xbuld 'fte, ^W.'*By ^K. and 'wiN.w. beitfg tolerably Digitized by Google t III n toleraUy high land» c r.M. we came to an anchor, in ten ^thoms^ as 1 did not judge it prudent to attempt pafling, during the night, the rock which lies three, or three and a half, leagues from the point of Pamanoekanj and on which the Cajiie of Woerden was wrecked. In the night, and on the following day, it blew bard from w.n.w. with a high Tea» by which the (hip ftrained very much, as ihe rode at anchor, fo that we (aw no chance of weighing our anchor ; while, in the mean time, it was dangerous to lie hpre, if the wind veered to the northward, which would alfb have much delayed the profecutioa of our voyage* We accordingly determined upon cutting the cable^ which we did, and fet fail, fleering, about ten o'clock, A-M. for the point of Indramayt^ and^fter^ards along the reef of Cheribon^ till liavuig paflk ed it, we fleered eaft, during the night« On the following day we difcerned little of the landyon account of the hazy weather, except Digitized by Google I ï*7 ] i»cept Mount TagaJ^ which is a volcaat» but of which we law nothing, as it was covered with thick douds^ from its fummit, balfwaj down. The next day, the 6xh of December, at daybreak, we got light of two huls, clofely reiembling each other, and called the Two Brothers ; and a little more to the eaftward the hill of Samarang^ which is fbmewhat larger .and higher ; which are the landmarks, by which the chief iettlement of this go« vernment is diftinguifliei We anchored in the road jof Samarang^ at eight o'clock in ihe evening, and I went t>n fhore the next day, to dcliv^er the Company's papers to Mr. Robert van ber Bi^rg, the governor, and to receive further orders. Refpeéling the navigation from Batavia to Samarangj the following directions may be of fervice^ On leaving the road of Batavia^ fleer for the illand of Edam ; then between that and the ifland Lfiyden^ or elfe between Leyden and Enkkuizen s and afterwards round Point Caratvangy and (b far from the fhore, to have offing enough to pafs the reef which rDO? opt from ^edary ; the lead is in this ,13 refp^di; Digitized by Google C ii8 3 l^ipcfl the beft guide, fince you muft not fufFer it to fhoal more than ten fathoms^ till this reef be pafled, of which you may he certain, in the daytime, when the high trees of Sedary^ which are a few finglc trees, eafily to be diftinguiflied on accoun^t of their height, bear s.s.w. and in the night, fleering to the eaft, in twelve fathoms water, it deepens when you are paft the reef; upon which fteer more foutherly, keeping how- .ever your depth, into the bight of Pama* noekaity till the water ftioals to ten and nine fathoms, when you muft fteer again more eaft, in order not to approach too near the Ihore of yava; you may be fure you will then run clear of the rock, upon which the CaJ/e of Woerden was loft, although there is fixteen fathoms water clofe to it : but the fafeft is to anchor here, during the night. Having doubled the point of Pamqnoekan^ fteer for that of Indraymaye^ in ten, eleven, twelve, and thirteen, fathoms watef ; upqu approaching the laft, be fure to keep in thofe depths, to avoid falling upon the reef of Chcribon^ which having paflTed, fteer as much to the fouthward of eaft, as to retain nii^eteen or twenty fathoms depth ; or in the Digitized by Google r "9 ] l6e daytime, keeping within fight of the ihore, till you begin to near Pamalangy when you muft fleer lb far off fhore as to double the rock which lies n,e, by n, from that place : you will then come in fight of the hills of Tagal^ Samarang^ and the Two Brothers ; when the laft bear due fouth, fteer for «the fhore,' and afterwards along it, till the enfign's flafF of Samarang bears 5.S.E. and let drop your anchor, in five, or four and a half, fathoms. All along the north coaf): of JavUf the bottom is a foft clay. This government, which is one of the mofl lucrative for the Company's fervants which they have, was twenty years ago only a commandery ; but it was changed into a government, upoij the <;onfiderable acqui- fition of territory made by the tompany, along the feacoafl, by ceflion to them by the so£SOBHO£NAM, at the conclufion of peace, during the government of Mr. Harting, who terminated the war of Java^ in which the empire was fplit into two parts, one re- maining under the soesoehoenam, and the other becoming fubjeél to the prefent reigq^» ing fultan, Manko Boeni. 14 u Digitized by Google It is of the utmoft importance to die Company that this eftabliihment be well governedt on account of the immediate re« ktion which it has to the two abovemen-* tioned Javanefe princes, who nooriih the mod implacable enmity towards each other. The jCompany would not wifli to fee a ter- mination of their mutual hatred» for as long as it remains in force, they retain the fecure poflef&on of their acquifitions along the feacoaft } and though not nominally» they are always, in reality, likewifc maf-^ ters of the inner parts ; for, upon uniting with either of thefe two princes, they can make the balance lean fo much againd the other, that they are both conftrained to re- main quiet. This was, in faft, their objeft, in fo- menting the difTention which arofe be- tween the sofisoEHOENAM and Man kg Boen I, and whence the war of yava had its origin. The laft-named, a prince of the imperial family, and a defcendant of the former soESOEHOENAM, wantcd to have, as an appanage, a certain territory, the province Mataram^ which had already been allotted to Digitized by Google to tile hereditary prince Masssyd, fon of the 80S80EHOENAM. This MAssxYD.was of a ihort flature, and an excellent difpofition ; he gloried in the circumftance that he had never killed an European, except in battle. Manko Boen It on the contrary, and his ion and heir apparent, more than once, caufed the captive Europeans to be pounded in their rice-blocks ; or he cut off their genitals, and forced theni into their noouths. The laft- xnentiooed, in particular, (hewed himfelf an implacable enemy of all Europeans; and being of a moft cruel and bloodtbirfty tem- per, the Company will probably not remain long unmolefted, if he ever come into power, provided the fear of the soesob- HOENAM do not prevent him from attack- ing them. As Mataram was an extenfive and wealthy diftriö:, which the Company did not wi(h to fee remain under the power of the soe» 80EH0ENAM, they clandeftinely encouraged Manko Boeni to require it at the hands of the S0E80EH0EN AM. The Company did this, jigreeably to their adopted fyftem, of weak^ ening the empire as much as poilible, in order Digitized by Google order to prcfcrve their poflcffions in Java with greater eafc ; and they fecrctly pro* tnifed Manko Boeni to maintain him in his pretenfions. Immediately hereupon he left the court, and retired to his domains, where he di- reftly rofe in arms againft the emperor, and began a civil war. The Company, in order to fave appear- ances, and to render their condud more de- fenfible, than if they had openly efpoufed the part of Manko Boeni, offered them- felves as mediators between thefe two princes, forefeeing that the soesofhoenam, who relied upon the fuperiority of his power, ' far frc^m being conceding, or placable, would rejeél all overtures of peace, and profecuting the war with vigour, would endeavour en- tirely to fubduc his opponent. Exaftly as they forefaw, the emperor re- jedïed all offers of conciliation, and entered eagerly into a war which was to end in his difcomfiture and difgrace. There was now the moft urgent neceffity for the Company to efpoufe, in earneft, the quarrel of Manko Boeni, partly in order toperfevere in their propofcd fyftem, and partij? Digitized by Google [ ï^3 3 partly to fecure themfelves from the ill will which would infallibly, and not un* reafonably, be entertained againft them by the soESOEHOENAM^ as he foon became ac- quainted with the manoeuvres they had put in praftice, to kindle thofe flames of difcord. And if Manko Boeni were fubdued, the power of the soesoehoenam would there- by be fo niuch augmented, that the Com- pany would, in all probability, have ftood in need of the exertion of all their power, to fland againft his attack* Fortune favoured their arms ; and though incalculable fums were expended in the con- teft, they attained their objed — the divifion and reparation of the empire. A confiderable part of the provinces of the empire of Java^ among which Mataram was one of the principal, was given to Manko Boeni, under the title of Sultan; the whole of the northeaft coaft of the ifland was ceded to the Company, upon condition of their paying a yearly acknowledgement of twenty thoufahd rixdoUars * to the poESOEHORNAM, who retained pofleflion of the remainder under his former title. » About 4,35^' ftcrlini;. Tl i Th^ Digitized by Google [ "4 1 The jtirifdiöion of this government wa» further extended by the conquefl of the land of Balambouangy fituated at the mod eaftera extremity of Java. . This province, the produ£Hons of which can never yield the Company a iufficientcom* penfetion for the blood and treafures which it cofts, would doubtlefs have never become an objeö of their ambition, if the cupidity of one of their fervants had not excited in them the defire of poffeffing it. Setting no limits to his lufl of wealth, he rather, as ordinary methods could not furfeit his«ra^ pacity, put the iqtereft of his employer? to the hazard, than to fuffer his bopndlefs thirft of gold to remain unfatisfted. The plaufible pretext by which the go^ vernment in India, and afterwards the di-* reélion in Holland, were inftigated to difV turb the tranquillity of this CQuntry, which they had, for fo many yc^rs, looked upon with io much indifference, was the repre- ientation, that there was reafbii tg fear jhat the Englifli wanted to take polfeflion of it ; nay, that an expedition for that purpofe wa? already fct on foot, .and wa5 expe^cd, of ha4 Digitized by Google t "J ] had arrived, at the Straits of Bali} that they liad probably already landed» and would in coniequence eilablifh themfelves in time, on the ifland. There was fome truth in this re- port, but the Company would, in all likeli* Iiood> never have begun that ruinous war^ had it not -been for thefe interefted inftiga- tions ; for their competitors would not have found it an eafy matter to eftablifh their trade here, notwithftanding this was fo much iniifted on at Samarang. In this manner was this empire, formerly ib redoubtable, fplit into three parts ; and it has thereby, not only become a lefs dan- gerous neighbour to the Company, but is likewife entirely under their controul, by means of their holding the balance be- tween the two abovementioned potentates. Even the prince who has the greateft right to the throne is not appointed heir to the crown, without the confent of the Com- pany; and the nomination of the prime minifters of both the princes is likewife made by the Company. The capital city of the soesoehoenam is Soere Carta, commonly called yolo, and is Digitized by Google is (ituated about two days' journey inland^ foutheaft from Saramang. That of the fultan has the name o( lyjokje Cartaj and lies five days* journey fouthweft from Samarang^ at the fouth fide of Java^ in the province of Mataram *. To the government of Java's Northeafi Coaji^ the feat of which is at Samarang^hclon^ all the faólaries, commonly called refidencies, which the Company poffcfs from Oe/opam- fang^ as far as the province of CAeriion; which lafl» in the fame manner as Bantam^ is under the immediate adminiftration of the government at Batavia. The feacoaft, thus ceded to the Company, and belonging to the government of Sama^ rang, extends from Oclopampang to Taga/^ full one hundred German miles in length : the breadth inland is various, running farther * The refting-placcs, or ftagcs, on the road from Samara»g to D'Jokje Cartay arc : from Saramang to Onara 5 (Dutch) miles. from Odora to Jambon 7 ditto. from Jttmhoa to Sombau 7 ditto. from Sombou to Surrigemnt 6 ditto. and from Surrigensnt to D^Joku Carta 9 dftto. S» into Digitized by Google [ "7 ] into the country at one place than at an- other *• It is divided into nine refidencies. Oelopampang * As Captain Bltgr, on his return from the South Sea, in September, 1789, failed along this coaft in a fmall fchooner ' which he had purehafed at Tinior^ and has given us fome par- ticulars refpeéting the feitlements he touched at, the additional iDfonnation which his account of them contains, may not be unacceptable; we, accordingly, extract the following par- ticulars from his journal. . *^ Sunday the 6ih« In the afternoon, we (aw the high land " of Cape Sandanoy which is the northead part oijwva. The ** next day, we were off the Cape, which is a low point, pro- *' jofiin^ from the high land. It is placed by the Dutch maps ^ in 7^ ^z' fouth; but, according to my obfervatton, and our ** eftimated dilhince from the land, I make it in 7^ ^êt. *' We fleered to the weftward, along the coaft of Jaiva^ ^ and on the loth, at noon* we anchored off Pajfourwang^ in ^ two fathoms, diftant from the fhore half a league; the en. " trance of the river bearing s.w. The coaft hereabouts is fo ^ flioal, that large (hips are obliged to anchor three or four ^ miles from the land* As foon as we were at anchor* I got *^ in my boat, and went on (hore. The banks of the river^ ^ near the entrance, were mud, on which grew a few man* ^ grove-bulhes. Among them, we faw hogs running, and " many were lying dead in the mud, which caufed a moft *^ intolerable flench, and made me heartily repent having <* come here ; but proceeding about a mile up the river, the '* the courfe of which was ferpentiney we found a very ^' pleafant country» and landed at a fmall and well-con- f* (hii£led fort. The houfes at Faffourmang are neatly built, *' and the country appears to be well cultivated. The pro-" ** duce of this fetdement is rice, of which ,they export lar^e ** quantities. There are but few Dutch here j the Javancfe •* are Digitized by Google C «8 ] Oebfampmg is the firft, beginning from the eafL This ièttlement was only efta- bUflied ^^ are numerouty aad tbeir chief lives with coafidciable fplen- ^ dour. They have good roads, and pofis are eilabUihed •^ along the coaft ; and it appears to be a buf/ and weli-rcgar ^ lated fcttlcnncnt. Latitude 7<^ 36* fouth. *^ The next day, about noon, we failed ; and on the ^ X2th in the evening, aiicbored in &«rji^«f«-road, in fevea ^ fathotBs : the flagdaff bearing s^w. diibnce from the fliore ^ one mile* We found riding here feven fquare-rigged, and ^* feveral fmaller velTels. Souraèaja is one of the tnoft pleafiuit ^ places I ever faw. It is fituated on the banks of a river, ^* and it a mile and a half diftant from the fea-ihore,. fo that ^ only the flag(lafF can be feen from the road. The river \% ^ navigable up t4> the town for veflels of xoo tons burthen, ^ and the bank on one fide is made convenient for tracking. *^ The Chinefe carry on a confiderable trade here, and have ^^ a town on the (ide of the river oppofite to Stmrabêyu* The ** country near the town is flat^ and the foil light, fo that they ** plough with a fingle bullock, or buffalo. Our latitude ob- ** ferved in Sourabaya road, was 7^^ x i' fouth. *' On the t7th» we failed from Stntrabaya. At noon, we <* anchored at Grijke^ which is a town, with a fmall fort» ^ belonging to the Dutch. We remained here about two •* hours. Latitude of Grifee 7® 9' fouth. ** Thenavigation throughtheStraitsofACn/jira is fo intricate, ^ that with the little opportunity I had, I am unable to un- *' dertake a defcription of it. The next day, September the ^ iSih, hairing pailed the flraits, we bore away to the well- ** wacd> along the coaft of Ja^a, We liad regular foundings ^ all the way to S^unarang^ off which place we anchored on ^ the 2ad, in the afternoon ; the church bearing s.e. diftance '*• from' the fhore half a league, depth of water two fathoms. « The Digitized by Google t 129 ] blifhed after the war of Balamiouang, and is under the diredion of a junior merchant. It is expefted that it will yield a confider- able quantity of rice, but it has not hitherto been able to furniih any. Sourabaya is the next ; the chief of which has, at prefent, the rank of fenior merchant, and the title of commander of the caftern diftricl. It moftly yields rice. Upon this follows Grijfee^ where the re- fident has the rank of merchant, and the chief produce of which is alfo rice. Samanap^ fituate on the ifland of Madura^ is the refidence of a junior merchant. It yields no article of trade that I know of, '' The (hoalnefs of the coaft here, makes the road of Bama^ '< rang very inconvenient» both on account of the great dif- *' tance which large fhips (of which there were fevcnd in the ^ road) are obliged to lie from the (hore« and 'of the landing, " which is in a rirer, that cannot be entered before half- flood. *' This river refembles the one at P<;^r>u;i»r^, the (hores being *' low» with offenfive dead animals lying about them. Sama^ '* f«ng is furrounded by a wall and ditch. Here is a very good *'^ hofpital, and a public fchool, chiefly for teaching the mathe* «' maiics. They have likewife a theatre. Provifions are re* *< markably cheap here, b^ef being at ten doits per pound, ^ and the price of a fowl twelve dolts. The latitude of ♦* Samarang is 6^ j/ fouth. " On the a6th, we failed from Samarmng^ and on the ift of '* O^ober, we anchered in Batavia-rozA** T. voL« II. K an^ Digitized by Google [ 13^ 3 an J fcrvw only to keep a watchful eye over (be iflaiid in which it lies. Then follows Rembang^ where formerly a junior merchant was flationed, but the chief has now the rank of merchant. It yields fait and timber, and is the place where the fmall veffels of the Company are built*. At a little diftance from Rembang lies yoana^ which is under the controul of a junior merchant. It yields rice and timber^ likewife a little indigo and cotton-yarn. Then comes Japara^ where the refident has the rank of merchant. Its produöions are the fame as thofe of Joana. The next is Samarang^ the refidence of the governor of Java^ for the Company. The chief produce of its diftridt is rice and cotton-yarn. Farther on is Pacalonga^ governed by a junior merchant, and yielding fugar and rice. And, laftly, the moft to the weftward, Tagal^ where a merchant is the refident, which produces rice. Befides the reiidents at thefe places along * A ihip o( $00 tons, :^iid three or four fn^aller veifels, are annually built here for the ftrvice of the CoxnpaA/. ST. the Digitized by Google t «3ï 1 the coaft» thofe at the courts of the soesoe- HOÊNAM, and the fultan, are alfo fubordi- natc to this government. There are two at each, the firft having rank of fenior mer- chanty and the fecond that of merchant ; with, the difference, however, that at Soera Carta the firft is a captain in the military^ ivhile at D^Jokje CartOj they are both be- longing to the corps of pennijis. The Company maintian a body of about one hundred and fifty men, in the fervice of each oi thefè princes, nominally as a body^ guard in honour of them ; but this number was not complete when I was at Samarangj there being a great want of men in this government *. Both * The whole cftablifliment of the Company, ia the govern^ ment of Java's Nortbgaft Coafi^ confided, in ^776-1777, of d34perrons in civil, and 13 in ecclefiaftical, employments; 35 furgeons and affiftants, 109 belonging to the artillery, 268 feamen and marines employed on ihore, 1,356 foldiers, and 30 mechanics ; in all %%oi^^ Europeans* The governor has a very lucrative office; it is eilimated to yield from 80 to 100,000 rixdollars, or nearly 20,000/. fterling annually. He is, there* fore, generally fuperfeded in two or three years, and muftt in his turni make room for a more unfledged fucceflbr, that each ma/ have his due fhare of the good tlungs of the land. The greateft part of this immenfe revenue accrues from the trade which the governor is enabled to carry on* His oftenfible m % emoluments^ Digitized by Google t ^3« 1 Both thefc Javanefe princes have a nuifl* bcr of children, by means of the many con* cubines they' take, fo that the portion of emoluments, befides his falaryi confifl in -^^ of an allowance of five per cent, which is granted to the Company^s fervants ; the feft being diftributed ia various proportions to the inferior officers, on all the import and export duties, and other teni« tonal fourccs of revenue of the Company, and in a ycarlj ^ont) ibution levied from the flrand- regents, as they are call- ed, or native magiflrarte of the feveral diArids, amounting to*- gether to I9713 Spanifli dollars. Befides the. articles men* tinned by our author, a large quantity of lentils, called here cadjang^ whivh are rruch ufed for the confumption of the common people, wi.h T.me cardemon (the amomum comfaSmn)^ gingei (amomutn %.n%iba), and turmeric, are exported from this colony. Ti^ey are moftly empioytd in ihc country- trade. Pflrt, however, of its produce comes to Europe. In 1778, the fol [owing goods, brougtu from Java\ hwtheafi Ceafi^ were fold in Holland, viz. ao,ooo/^. of indigo, at ƒ.6 (itx. llerling) per /^. w hick flood the Company in /.i 10 (2J. <)d). 50,000/^. of turmeric, and 65,000/^. of cotton-yarn. On the other hand, this colony takes a large quantity of opium (to the amount of ƒ.1, 500,000, or about 136 000/. fterling, annually), filk clothes, India piecegoods, and Euro- pean manufactures, on all which large profits accrue both to the Company and to their fervants. The fiatemcnts of Go- vernor Mossel, make the yearly receipts of the Company here amount to ƒ.400,000, and the charges to ƒ.38o,oco ; but, Jn 1779, the former were ƒ.436,874, and the latter only /'.28ï,873, fliewing a favourable balance of yijjjOoi, or about 14,000/. fterling, which makes a handfome appearance, if we confidcr the heavy cftablifliment. T. each Digitized by Google I ^33 ] each child is not very brilliant, and fbme of them are merely comnum regents at different places : thus I met with one, at the rcfidency of Joanay who was tommag^g^ or regent, of the province of Patti^ and at thp fame time uncle of the reigning soe* ^OEHO£KAM. CHAP-; Digitized by Google t '34 ] CHAPTER V. Cmiats (f Wüd Beafts among the Javanefe. — Of tigers with Buffaloes. — Of Criminals with Tigers^ — The Company appoint Succejfors to the Princes of Java. — Likewife their Prime Minijiers. — TommagongSy or native Regents. — Prices paid f$r the Rice. — Account of the Bepatti ^Samarakg. — Entertainment at the Govemor*s Houfe. — T!he River of Samarang. — Tides, — Fortifications. -^ Chinefe Temple. — Warehoufes and Workjhops.— Guardhouje. — Governmentboufe. — Suiurhs. — Gar- rifon. — Departure for Japara. — View of FisHER*s Ifland.-^Ancborage at Japara. — jic- count of that Settlement. — Tie Forty Houfe of the Rejidenty iSc. — Old Japara* — Ancient Java^ nefe Tombs. — Old Moorijh Temple. — CbaraSer of ibeprefent Rejident. HE moft favourite diverfions of the Javanefe emperors, are combats between wild beafts. When a tiger and a buffalo are to fight together for the amufement of the court, they are both brought upon the field of combat in large cages. The field is fur- rounded Digitized by Google { «35 3 rounded by a body of Javanefc, four deep, 'with levelled pikes, in order that if the creatures endeavour to break through, they may be killed itimiediately ; this, however, is not fo eafily efFeöed, but many of thefe poor wretches are torn in pieces, or dread- fully wounded, by the enraged animals. When every thing is in readinefs, the cage of the buffalo is firft opened at the top, and his back is rubbed with certain leaves, which have the (ingular quality of occafion- ^ng an intolerable degree of pain, and which, from the ufe they are applied to, have been called buffalo-leaves* by our people. The door of the cage is then opened, and the animal leaps out, raging with pain, and roaring moft dreadfully. The cage of the tiger is then likewife opened, and fire is thrown into it, to make the bead quit it, which he does generally running backwards out of it. ♦ By the Javancfe they arc called iamadn. They fting like nettles, but much more violently, and even fo as to caufe an inflammation in the /kin. On every vein they have iharp- poifited prickles, which are tranfparent, and contain a fluid that occafions the irritation. Dr. Thunbbrg fays, it is a fpecies of nettle, before unknown, to which he gave the name Qf urtica Jitmulans^ 71 K4 As Digitized by Google C 136 1 As foon as the tiger perceives the bufïalo» he fprings upon him ; his huge opponent ftands expelling him^ with his horns upon the ground, to catch him upon them, and thrpw him in the air : if the buffalo fucceed in this, and the tiger recovers from his fall, he generally lofes every wifh of renewing the combat : and if the tiger avoid this firfl: attempt of the buffalo, he fprings upon him» and feizing him in the neck, or other parts, tears his flefh from his bones : in moft cafes, however, the buffalo has the better. The Javanefc who mufl perform the dangerous office of making thefe animals quit their cages, may not, when they have done, notwithflanding they are in great danger of being torn in pieces by the en- raged beafts, leave the open fpace, before they have faluted the emperor feveral times, and his majefly has given them a fignal to depart ; they then retire flowly, for they are not permitted to walk fafl, to the circle, and mix with the other Javanefe, The emperors fometimes make criminals condemned to death fight with tigers. In , fuch cafes, the man is rubbed with borriy or turmeric, and has a yellow piece of cloth put Digitized by Google [ ^^^ 1 put round him, a kris is then given to him, and he is condu6ted to the field of combat. The tiger, who has, for a long time, beeu kept failing, falls upon the man with the grcatcft fury, and generally ftrikes him down at once, with his paw, but if he be fortunate enough to avoid this, and to wound the animal, fo that it qi.its him, the emperor then commands him to attack the tiger; and the man is then generally the viöim : and even if he ultimately fucceed in killing his ferocious antagonifl, he mufl fufFer deathj by the command of the emperor. An officer in our Company's fervice, who had long been ftationed at the courts of the Javanefe emperors, related to me, that he was once witneft to a moft extraordinary occurrence of this kind, namely, that a Javanefe who had been condemned to be torn in pieces by tigers, and, for that purpofe, had been thrown down, from the top, into a large cage, in which feyeral tigers were confined, fortunately fell cxa6Uy upon the largeft and fierceft of them, acrols whofe back he fat aftride, without the animal doing him any harm, and even^ ojn the con- trary» Digitized by Google [ 13^ ] trary, appearing intimidated ; while the others alfo, awed by the unufual poftiire and appearance which he made, dared not at- tempt to deftroy him ; he could not, how- ever, avoid the punifhment of death, to which he had been condemned, for the em- peror commanded him to be (hot dead in the cage. ' According to the ftipulations of the laft treaty, the Company determine which of the fons of either emperor (hall fucceed his father, who is then nominated heir to the crown ; they equally appoint the pangorang^ or prince, who has the admin iftration of the empire, and is firft warm, or prime minifter. The Company's poflfeflions along the coaft, are alfo divided into regencies. A Javanefe, of fomewhat more than common birth, is appointed regent in each, by the Company, under the denomination of torn-: magongy to whom the determination of dif- putes of fmall moment, among his fubordi- nate Javanefe, is left ; they may even in- flift corporal puni(hment, but not death ; crimes which require the laft being only adjudicablc^ Digitized by Google I i39 I adjudicable by the native council at Sama^ rang. They muft iikewifc take care that the Javanefe inhabitants deliver the produce of their land to the Company, or rather to tbemfelves, in order to convey it afterwards to the feveral reddencies, or fadories. A certain contingent, or alTeirment, of produce, is laid upon each of thefe regents^ which they muft be attentive to furniflx pundually, or they tun a rilk of being dÜ^ mifled. The Company pay a fixed price for every article. That of the rice is ten riicdollars, or twenty-four gilders, for every coyang of 3,400 pounds weight * ; but when the har^ veft fails, they fometimes pay five rixdoUars more ; or when the wants are very large, as in the year 1773$ when the fcaicity of this grain at Batavia^ occafioned by a certain occurrence refpefting the firft adminiftrator in the grain^magazine, was very great ; or when feveral fucceeding harvefts have failed, orders are then given to the rcfidcnts to buy the rice immediately from the natives^ • Equal to about x/. kd. ilcrling per awu T. and Digitized by Google t »40 1 apd the coyang then ftands thenn in üfty rixdoUars. Samarang alone has a depatti^ who is higher in rank than the tommagongSy and a prince of the blood, or pangorcng. He has however, no jurifdiélion over the other re- gents, than alone over thofé who are within the diftria of Samarang itfelf. He is like- wife the chief of the native counciL 1 was once in company with this prince, at the houfc of the governor of Samarang^ who gave an entertainment that evening, on the occafion of the birthday of his little boy. The depot ti was placed next to the governor, at his right hand; he appeared ^to me to be a man of full fifty years 06 agCji^ rather above the ufual ftaturè, thin, and of a brown complexion ; he had little beard, ^ grave deportment, and was very fedate in ' converfation, without, ho\vevcr, any affec-» tation. He was dreffed in a fhort brown coat with filver buttons, and filver-edged button- holes ; the fleeves fet tight to the arms, be- low the elbow, as far as the wrifts. Under this he wore a c\\mtxfaron^ which reached to the ground. On his feet he had large flippers, fquare-» Digitized by Google Iquare-toed, and turned up. His cap, or headband, was made of white linen, which having been much beat, and prepared with flarch made of rice, was as tranfparent as gauze. He was addrelled by the governor by the f itle of towang depattt^ and treated with great refpeél. His dainty or ^welling, flands on the Pafcébaan^ near the houfe of the governor, whom he is lifcewife obliged to ac- company, when he goes to refide at Boeyang^ about half a league farther, where he has alio a manfion clofe to that of the governor. On the occafion of this feftivel, two of the elders of the church at Samarang^ the iifcal, and the lieutenant of the artillery, danced a reel, for the diverfion of the com- pany. I only notice this circumftance to fhew that, in thefe parts, no iuch rigid difcipline prevails, with refpeél to the condufl: of el- ders of the church, and no fuch fcandal is occafioned by their dancing in public, as at Groningen *, although the parfon was himfelf one of the ipedtators, and highly applauded * Mr. Stavorinus here alludes to the auflere and puri- lanical fpirit which prevails among the calvinifls in the United Provinces, and proverbially fo at Gtaningem^ the chief town of the rcmoteft of the feven. 7*. the Digitized by Google the agilïty of th^ir dancers, faying with Solo- mon, that there was ** a time to weep, and ** a time to laugh ; a time to mourn, and a •* time to dance/' The town of Samarang lies on the caft fide of the river of the fame name, which takes its rife about three Dutch miles inland, and falls into the fea, about two hundred roods below the place ; at its mouth, it is not more than three hundred and thirty, or forty, feet broad. A bridge is thrown over it, leading from the town to the ufual refi- dence of the governor, which is called the Vryherd (freedom), and is a large and hand- fome building. The Chinefe and Javanefe campons, or fuburbs, are on the fame fide of the river. This river, like all others in ya^a^ has a batik lying before its mouth, which is, in fome places, compofcd of fbft mud, and in ' others, of hard fand. At low water there is fcarcely more than one foot water upon it. Here, as well as all along the coafl of ^ava^ the tide rifcs but once in four-and- twenty hours. In the bad monfoon {kwaade moujfon)^ or when the wefl winds blow, it ^ high- water in the day-time, and low- water Digitized by Google [ 143 } water at night, and during the good,.or eaft, monfooDy the contrary takes place. Wheu it is low- water without the banks, the rivers are at the higheft ; and the moon feems to have no influence at all here upon the tides. The fortifications o£ Samarang are in the (ame ftate .as all thofe of the Company which I had opportunities of feeing, to wit, moft deplorably bad. The walls which fur- round it, and connefl the projeöions, which can fcarcely be called angles, are low and ruinous. The moft remarkable objc6l which I faw at this place, was a temple of the Chinele, which is a middling-large building, with two courts before it ; it is decorated within with the gigantic images of their gods, which are ftrongly gilt, and make a fplendid ap- pearance. Samarang has a fmall, but neat, church; near it is an elegant tomb of Mr. Tout- LEMOND, formerly head adminiftrator and iecpnd in command here. The warehoufes and workfhops ftand iti a row, all under one roof, projeding out, and covering a piazza before them, full three Digitized by Google [ '44 J three hundred feet in length. They are to the fouthweft of the town, by the river- fide. The guardhoufe, which has been lately credcd, has, befides the place for the pri- vates, two large apartments for the ac* commodation of the officers, whoare upon duty* The government-houfe, which was for- merly the refidence of the governor, and where the (evcral offices are aöually held, is near the river, and faces it. There arc three campons, or fuburbs, the Chinefe, the Javanefe, and the Bouginefe, of which the two firft are to the weftward, and the laft to the eaftward, of the river. When the garrifon of Samarang is com- plete, it amounts to one hundred and fifty men, befides an independent company of dragoons, which are under the command of a captain lieutenant ; all the other military of the place are fubjeö: to the orders of the captain commandant of Samararig. On the 1 6th of December, after having taken on board one hundred coyangs of rice, for account of the Company, and fifty for myfelf, I received my difpatches from Digitized by Google C 145] from Mr. van der Burg» with orders to fail for Japara. Going on board in the evening, I immediately weighed anchor, and fet fail with a flack landwind^ fleering ofFfhore, in order not to be embayed in the bight of Japara^ by the wefterly wind ; and that, if it veered to the n.w. fo as to ren* der it dangerous to touch at Japara^ I might have ofEng enough to ftretch out to fca, withoutiide of the ifland Mandelique. The next morning we could not difcern the land, by reafon of the hazinefe of the weather ; but at noon we got fight of Vijfchersy or Fijker% Ifland, bearing s.e. three and a half leagues off. This is a fniall and low ifland, about two leagues and a half *.w^ from yapara^ and particularly diftinguifliable by two or three high trees, which grow upon it. The wind blowing moftly from the n.e. during this day, we could not reach Japara, though we already perceived the flag flying at that fettlcmcnt. At nine o^clock, p.m. we came to an anchor, in eighteen fathoms water, to avoid being mifled, during the night, by the currents. VOL. II. L On Digitized by Google [ H6 ] on the i?th, at three o*clock, a.m. wc again got under weigh, and at fanrife wc were ilill about three leagues diftant from the road of ^apara. At ten o'^clocfc we caft anchor, clofe to the eaft fide of the ifland t^e Nrs ; though in the good, or ealT, monibon, the anchoring-pTace is fomewhat more to thé eastward, and clofe to the op^ pofite ihore.^ ^ One may pafs both to the north and to the fbnth of this ifland, but the paffagé to the ibutn is more dangerous, on account- of the naff rowntfs of the channel. èehind this; and a little to the s.e. lies another iflanrf, which is furrounded by very dangerous fhoals^ and cöntra ^NUi the water ihoals gradually, firft, from five to two and a half fathoms, and when, in this laft depth, x you are abreaft of the foul ifland, it then Icflens, by degrees, to ^x: feet, when you are clofe to a high rock, called the Wahijcby or JVbale^ whence it flioals more and more, with fome funken rocks, to the mouth of the little river of Japara^ where there is two . Digitized by Google f '47 1 two feet water» and Itfsj ffld*which is about 1^40, or 1 50,. feet ovei% The fburce of thié ftream lies no more than a Ihort league up tbe cduntry* On entering the rivulet, on the noltfr fide, lies a little gentle eminence, about fifty feet high, on the weftern part of whkh Üailds a iihall triangular fort, one baftioa whereof points to the fea, and the other two to the land ; in the middle of the cur* tain which conneéls tfaeiè two laft is the gate : this fort is mounted with ieveral pieces of cannon of difiêrent calibers; it is built of flone^ and is kept in good Repair : the garrifoh cohftfts of onfe ferjeant, twb cofporalsv and fixteen privates. The reft of the eminence is ufed for a burying- g^ouiid^ in which the eniign-ftafF is ereólèd» On the fbuth fide of the rivulet, are ibme Javanefe hetifes and huts, and about fixty foods from its mouth, it is eroded by a bridge. On the north fide is the houfe of the refi- dént, oppofite to a large plain, planted with fliady trees, and railed round. It has iè« veral handibme apartments, furniflied neatly .L 2 and Digitized by VjOOQ IC [ '48 ] and elegantly^ in the Eurc^ean ftyle. On the left hand of it is a pleaiant bower, or ])aviliön, of one hundred feet in length» eighteen in breadth, and ten in height, fo clofely interwoven with flowering (hrubs, that it is impervious to light ihowers of rain* At the end is a 'grotto; and when, on an evening, the whole is illuminated, it forms a very charming coup (Pail. The laft evening of my flay z,t Japara^ we fupped in the pavilion, which was lighted up* About a mile and a half above the let- tiement, the flream turns a fawmill^ which faws the yearly quantity of four or five thoufand large logs of timber, into planks, which are called millplanks. The water is carried to the mill through a brick chan- nel, and a dam is made acrofs the rivulet to prevent it from running off, till there is fufficient to turn the mill. One Dutch mile inland, lies the ancient Javanefe city of Japara^ called Old Japara^ which was formerly the refidence of the fovereigns of an empire of that name. The tomb of one of them is ftill in exiftence ;- it contains the body of the emperor, that of Digitized by Google [ ï49 ] of his moft beloved wife on the right hand/ and of two other of his wives on the left, together with feveral of his children. The fhape of thefc graves is oblong : the ap- proach to them is through a fort of portico, enclofed by a railing, in a large covered apartment. Over the graves of the em- peror and his moft beloved wife, a large piece of linen is ftill continually expanded, which covers them both ; 'and they arc flrewed every Friday with frefli flowers. Not far from this is an old and ruinous ^oorifli temple, of ftone, with fuch beautiful fculpture of imagery and foliage, that the art and ingenuity of the Javanefe of thofe times excites our admiration. This temple is at leaft three hundred years old. At the feafide, about two miles from Japara^ the refideut ba^ a wooden fummer- houfe, in a ple^fant grove of cocoa-^nut-trees, whence there is ^ very fine profpeél: out to fea, aqd of the neighbouring iflands. We here caught 4 flyinjg fquirrel. The actual refident at Japara is Mr. William van dbr Beke, a native of Sluice in Flandfrs^ aged upwards of forty years : he is a man whofe life is devoted to L 3 the Digitized by Google [ 15^1 the fcrvic^ of lus fello^-mortai$^ bl^èd with a llbpral aad compsgllioaatp xniod, and ey^r ready to pbligp \(rherever it is iii his power. This geptlcman has been thf: chief at Japara ever fincc the yc^r iJ^S* I had to ihip feven hundred an4 6fty mill* p]^n)(s at this placfr; aod having taken thdc on board, I took my .l^^ve of thp wqrtby refide^t, with much regret, on ^ aiilof Deqeiiib^O 1774* CHAP. Digitized by Google .^ t iSI 1 CHAPTER VL Departure frotik Jatajla. — Tbe Jfimd Manpe- x«i(iys. — Anchorage lef ore Joana. — Account of jbat Settlement. — Tbe River. — Inland Naviga^ tion to Samar ANC— fife fite;». — Cbinefs Cam- fon.^-^Fort. — Houfe of the fLefiieni, — CharaBery fSe. ef thiprêfent RejSJent.-^His Emoluments. — Cilebraiiom of tba New Tear.r^Acecunt of ibe TommagongÊ^ or natme Rigints.-^Of the Pattis^ ^ ^Hb^tegfnu^f^Entirtainmnt 4H the fJt^fife of ov of tbe T^wmagp>/p.-^Dfpartare from Joaiïa.— Tbe Jfknd Lvpon.—^^ ^ the Hiü of Ra- DiONA. — Of the Ifland Madura.— 0/ JJlands /ufpojfd to he the little Pvi-Q Lauts. — Great Inaccuracy of the Ccmpanfs Charts. — View of the NoussA LiKAS. — Of the ffland Rotterdam. Of the Hen and CHieKENS. — Of tbo Sali- Vih%.n^^^e Bank called the Bocyw.r-View ef the Ton INS yünds.^^f the Throe Erotbers. — Of Ta»a*ekb.'~0/ QALmivQ.-^Aufboragi m the Road of Maqasser* JiiARLYjon the morning of the 22d' of December, 1774, we weighed anchor, and put tp fea, in order to proceed to yo(fna^ 1 4 where Digitized by Google t IS* ] vfhtrt I was to take in the remainder of the cargo. The next day, at fijnrife, we found our- felves abreaft of the ifland Mandeligue, often called the Duwe/Jilip, or Devits Rock, be- caufe, in the eaft monfoon, fliips are de- tained here, a long time by contrary winds and currents, before they can weather it. This ifland is fmall, but of a middling height, fo as to be feen at the diflance of five or (ix leagues. It lies nkout half a leagu? from the coaft of Java; between which and the ifland there is a paflage, in three and a half, or four,' fathoms water, but it is too narrow to be fafe, and fhips therefore very feldom pais through it. At this place, we buried the third man who we had loft ünce our leaving Batavia. ^ Having paflfed the ifland Mandelique^ we failed round the reef which ftretches out more than a league and a half from the point of Füyo (between which and Point L^Jf^'^^ h^s the bight of Rembang and Joana)^ towards the road ofjoana^ but not being able to get fight of the enfign-ftafF of that fettlement, we anchored, at funfet, iu the outer road. The Digitized by Google [ 153 ] The enfuing day, the 24th of December, failing farther in, we dropped our anchor iu ÜÏTCC and a half fathoms water, the bottom being loft mud* Having feen all fafe on board, I went with the Company's papers to the refidency, where I arrived at three o'clock in the after •« i)oon ,The river of yoana flows out of a large inland lake, into which feveral fmall dreams di(charge themfelves. It ts called the in^ land fea, and difembogues its fuperfluous water moftly through this river, which^ after running a condderable way, with many finuofities, falls into the Tea about four leagues to the weftward of Remhang^ It is one of the largeft and moft navi« gabk rivers along the whole north coaft of Java^ being at the mouth, and a great way up, beyond the rcfidency, twenty and more feet deep. Its breadth is about two hundred feet^ In tbe bad monibon, the afflux is much more vident than in the good monfoon* The water, as is the cafe with all rapid Areams^ is turbid ; but when it has flood dill Digitized by Google. [ '54 ] ftill ibm£ UiB€ If) pots» or caiksy it beeoxties Sailing up tliis riy^sr y^lth tbc boats called permayangSy into the inlgod Tea, there 18 ^ p^flTage along fever^i other riyer$, to S^uir^ngj {lud thence farther up the coua* try^ Thjs p^vjg&tjOEi m9y b^ performed ia two or three days; and it is efpecially avdile4 eliy ill t|ie |>ad ^onfoon^when the voyage by fefii round the i(land Maa^h'fMe^ rciquire^ (qq loflg ^ time^ aii4 ^^ much (op d%I>gsfQ\i^ f^r A broad mud^b^^i^k, upon which the^ 19 focoetini^ lefs ^hfiri a foot w^ter, lieis b^^ fore tbf rncfuth of the river 9f Jo/^^^f* From its mouth to the refideACy» which ftands full ê ¥W^ Wf 0» the weft fide, it ruos be- $iye(») Ipyn ^nd fwampy grounds, whicb 9f^ Ml^vl^y^t^fl» ai)d produce nothing but ^aihuroQd: tlxey are fomatimes iiiundated fvben t|i§,oY?jr &44?nly rifes, aft^r heavy rains. yi^c ^own pf J(?/fn0 cdmnaences jwA 2ibovc ^hc refi^npjf. It cqi^fift^ pf two rows of ))ouiês built ^loiig the river» ahout a quap?r ijPf of a Dutcl^ miic ^ length, At the. for* thcr Digitized by Google [ 15^ J tber .end lies the Tafsfbaan^ at^d not far ff 901 it \% the dwelling of the t^mmiigpng. On the oppofite (ide, upon an iflaiid^ formed by the riyeo of about hjtl^ jt Putchk mile in circumference» i^ands (he Chinefb canapon. The odge, or fort, of Joawt^ i§ ft rer doubt, with four demi-b^fljpns, in whidbi are the rice-wsrehoufes» the |>arrfc]cs fof the ibldiery, and fpme buildings which ferye ioc ^ kitchen and othf r office^ for t^e rp- (ident. The hpufe of the refidpnt j^qo4 formedy within ^he fort, but it h^ bpea pulled down, and ^ ntyf one h^ been built of freeftonei with9Ut it, on ^ tzSi fiie» ^hich i« kept in e^celle^t repair* This manfion was cpnftru^^d {iccpr^ing to the plao and dr^^ing of ij^^p ^Pginfer Haak : throughput India I h^v^ o^t fee^. any building that equalled it i« grfiqd^jir and boldneis of architeélure. It cpn^^ of two pieces, oppofite to eaK:h P^her, wl^ch^ are connected by a lofty doo^ of fu|l twenty-five feet diameter, f^ppqrtefi by fouf columns of the Tufcatji order^ ^th thefe pieces are, however, bi|t of pjie ilpry j they ^e ifxty feet lon^, and tw^tyr^ve broad^ wilhiiï Digitized by Google f 156 ] within the walls.' OnQ of them forms a* fingle hall of the fame dimcnfions. The other is divided into three apartments ï the middle one, which is twenty-five feet in depth, and about fixteen in breadth, is op- pofite to the door of the great hall, and to the great dome : it is fitted up as a chapel ; the entrance to it is through a handfome arch, or portico : on each fide of it is a large chamber, of the fame fize, making, together with the chapel, the length of the whole building on this, fide, and the fame as that of the great halU The walls of all thefe apartments 'are beautifully ftuccoed, adorn- ed with ftimptuous gilt cornifhes, and the roofs are concave, being wainfcoted, and curioufly adorned with carVed imagery. Behind this pile, flands a building, con- ftruftëd 'entirely of wood, provided With three hand]C>ine 'rooms, and above thefe is one large apartment for the unmarried fe- male flaves, and which might therefore be called the feraglio. From this edifice, there is a moft delightful view backwards, over the paddte^ or rice, fields, interfperfed witb fmall groves, and terminated* by the diftattf^ and lofty mountains of ^df/i^r^, la Digitized by Google [ .iS7 ] In the front of all ftands a handfome faloon, built clofe, to the riverfidc, and equally eredted at the ejcpcncc of the prc- fcnt refident. It is of an oblong o£lagon ihape» and is ftuccoed on the fides and roof, but the corniflics are not gilt. A large balcony projects from it towards the river, the only inconvenience of ^yhich con- fifts in the fwarms of mofquitos which in- feft it every evening. The aöual rclident is Mr. Philip Wil-^ LiAM Neuwith, a native of Friejland^ twenty-eight years of age, a moft polite and friendly man. He fcrved as lieutenant in the navy, under the admiralty of Amjier^ dam^ and obtained his difcharge from that fervice, with the rank of captain. A few months after he firft came here as chief, he had the misfortune, that the lodge, or fort, was furprized early in the morning, by a gang of banditti, on which oqcafioii feveral Europeans loft their lives, and fomc warehoufes were burnt down ; on the fame day, however, he fucceeded in expelling, them from the fort, by the afliftance of feme faithful Javanefe, Chinefe, and Mand- harefe, who were lying here with their veffek ; Digitized by Google t '58 I ▼efiêls; and the freebooters fled on all fides, leaving bthind them ievefal dead, and fèvèral Were taken prifohèrs, Who were imthfediately> and fummarily, ^ut to death, without any form of trial. The èmfoluments of this refidency amputit annuali^ to (ixteèii thoufand rrxdóllars *f afid tiibtij^ They proceed from the fiir- plus- Weight of the rice, delivered by thfc native regents to the Company, and fron^ the chea^ rate at which this article is ^ur- ^hafedv not to mention what he himfelf buys up, And dilpofes of to indivkiaals, ft*: at leaft, fifty per cent profit ; IHcéWifè from the coile6lion of the timber yearly furnifiied to the Company^ at a fixed price, and which cofts him ho more than the la- bouragei which is very chéiap herCi is he has only to fend two or three htihdrèd Ja- yanefè into the woodsy to fell the trees, and bciJ^ them into logs. .The conftruftion of fhips, tikewifêy affords confidefabie gain to the preferft refident; for both timbfef and labour Cöft hiiri little ; for a Javdnefe mafter-fhipwnght èarrfs ho ♦ About 3,Socr/. ftcrling, fl ptiore Digitized by Google C '59 ] Ifèbtë Örnn aboü( ÜH,dtóiélfJes^ tit two-penny^ piéèés^ a diéy, bis atfliilëntö^ föur^ and the tötMacftt laböürèré, iikoi He htely biiilt a fnow of ohè hÜi^dttA and óöe fttt in lengthy accördifig fó the model of thé ftates' armed friow, thé Ze^ 'p/ij^r, of RotieridiHi ^Vhich traè fitted «p ill ;ts haiidlbmè st manner as I évér faw fuck^ aveffeï. He offered it for felc at twenty thoüfand rixdoUars^ and afterwards took eighteen thoufand. Thef-e are aMb ptofits attached to thé Bhandaary^ or farm of the duties, which accrue, nominally, to the ClAhèfé, biit^ in reality, to the refident. A few days before the new year^ every Javanefe, who hid the leaft conncöion^ cither with the Comparty, or with the re- fident, came to make prefehts to him, con* lifting chiefly of poultry, eggs, fugar, fruit, &c. Thofe who were of a higher orders fuch a$ the Chinefe captain^ brought ^olls of fatin. Oii the firft of Januai^y, 1775, a felute óf one and twenty guns, was fired, att fon-* rife, from Ibnle fmall pieces of cannon^ planted before the faloon. On this oc- cafion, Digitized by Google cafion, ail European, a ftrong and corpulent man» who aéled as gunner, met with a terrible accident. Faffing before the muz- zle of one of the guns, the priming of which had flafhed, without difcharging the piece, it^ went off the inftant he was before it, and blew him upward* of fix feet for- wards; the loading had fortunately been rammed down without a wad, fo that he was no other wife hurt, thart by being dreadfully burnt, on his fide, arm, apd belly, fo that he was not cured when I left the place. Two hours afterwards, came three Ja- vanefe regents, or tommagongs^ belonging to the diftrict of this fadtory, to congratulate the refident, on the new ycar^ in the fol- lowing manner : Sallamat taon baro Tou^ wang alii cajji ou mour panjang ; that is, '* much joy with the new year, God grant ** you a long life.'* The firft of thefe regents, who was tom^ magong over part of the province of Pafti, appeared to me to be a man of full fifty years old. He had grey hairs, and a little beard. Mr. Neuwith told me, that he was cfteeraed one of the moft intelligent of Digitized by Google [ i6i ] of the Javanefe. He was even thought fb much ofy that the soesoehoenam wanted much to have made him adminiftrator of his empire, but he declined the dignity, pre- ferring to be a common regent in the Com- pany's pofleflions, than a powerful ftatef- man under an arbitrary monarch ; for the minifters of thofe princes are not only liable to incur a fpeedy diigrace, and to be difmiifed from their offices, but they are often degraded to the rank oï battari^ which is little different from the condition of a flave, obliged to perform the moft menial^ and moft toilfome, offices ; while it is vtry feldom that the Company come to fuch ex- tremities. His drefs confifted of a fhort coat, or jacket, of deep red velvet, which came a little below the hips, and was fattened with little filver buttons, round the body, under the arms, and round the wrifts. The lower part of this jacket, below the buttons, was ftiffiïned out all round, Uader it he wore 2L faron^ in the country-fafhion, round his body, which hung down to his heels, and was made of Javanefe painted cloth. His kris was in a flieath of gold, beautifully VOL. II. M worked. Digitized by Google worked, and the handle was made of cajou pellu which is reckoned the moft coftly wood produced in the Indies; it is very fcarce, of a grey ifli colour, with thin black veins running through it, and of a very hard, clofe, and fine texture. His cap was of purple velvet, bordered with narrow fil- ver lace. Like nmoft Javanefe of diftinöion, he fpoke little, and with a becoming gra* vity. The next regent was the uncle of the prefent soesoehoenam, and equally regent of the province of Patti. The fimplicity of this man was as remarkable as the intelli- genceofthe former; and the refident was always able to do whatever he plegfed in the province of Patti^ as the latter was very eafily perfuaded to every thing. The third regent was the tommagong of yoanuj a large, comely man, whofe good- nature was pidured in his open and friend- ly' countenance : in underftanding, how- , ever, he was alfo not to be compared to the firft: There was likewife another, who was re- gent of Caylam, as well as a native of the place. The other Javanefe would not ac- knowledge Digitized by Google [ i63 ] knowledge him, or any of the Caylammers, to be of their own race, or true Javanefe, faying that they were produced from the unnatural conne<5lion of a woman with a dog- Indeed, the whole time that they were together, I did not perceive that one of the other regents condefcended to addrels a fingle word to him. Each regent had his patti^ or fob-regent, with him ; but while the former fat upon a chair, the latter was obliged to fit upon the floor, upon his heels, and when called by his fuperior, to creep along the ground to him, atld fit down at his feet, waiting till he was pleafed to fpeak, or to ifiue his com- mands» At feven o'clock in the evening, thefe regents came, with a number of fervants, with mufical inftruments, &c. to fupper to the refident's houfe. Before fupper we had mufic and dancing in the European ftyle ; but after it, feveral Javanefe dancing girls were fent for, with whom each of the re- gents, and after them their pattisy danced, or, as they term it, tandacked^ in their fafhion, to the found of their own mufical M 2 inftruments, Digitized by Google [ i64 ] inftruments, gomgoms, bóudas, and a kind öf violins, which continued till late at night, when they all left us for their own houfes. On the 3d of January, I went> With the refidcnt, to pay a vifit to the tommagong of Joana. He received us dreffed in ftatc, and during the playing of gonngoms, and other inftruments. His favourite wife, and the wife of his fon, together with his mo- ther, likewife came and drank tea with us. A large filver plate with confeftionary flood upon a table near us, and each took what be liked of it. On the 1 4th of the fame month, we were invited to fupper by the fame regent, who gave an entertainment on the occafion of the marriage of his daughter, which had been folemnized fome time before. The refident had caufed, at his defire, the pro- vificns to be dreffed by his own people, in the European manner, fo that there was little or no Javanefe viöuals to be feen. After fupper, fome dancing girls were again introduced, with whom the tommagong and his fons tandacked. Their wivfes were not prefcnt at this ; and when, a fliort time be- fore Digitized by Google I i«5 1 . fore the company broke up, they came in^ care had been taken that the dancing girls were gone before they entered the room. During my flay at Joana^ wc had very unfavourable» windy, and rainy weather, by which the loading of my Ihip was delayed, and I was deprived of the pleafure of taking a journey hiland, to the inner fea, or to the province of Pj///, which the têfnmagong ftrongly urged me to do, fb that I did not go farther than about » Dutch mile and a half up the country, to one of the country- feats, or gardens, of the refident, who has four of them. At laft the (hip received the complement of her cargo, having taken in, both from this place and from Rembangy one hundred and fifty coyangs of rice, befides 4 ijuantity of logs and planks. On the 2ift of January I went on board, with the Company's papers, but it was not till the 24tb that I could leave the road, being obliged to wajt till ttjcn for thirty leagers of water, which could not be (hipped before, on account of the ftormy weather. On the 24th, at eleven o'clock, p.m. we weighed anchor, and left the road of Joanaj M 3 experiencing Digitized by Google t »66 1 experiencing nauch difficulty in getting the Ihip afloat, as (he lay, at Icaft, two feet funk in the mud. . The next day in the morning, at funrifc, we were abreaft of the point of Lejfeum^ whence we fteered diredl eaft, in order to run in fight of the ifland Lubok^ commonly called the Baviaan^ or Baboon^ but we did not fee it, as we pafled it in the foUowiug night. This ifland is not large, but, as I was informed, extremely populous. Seventy or eighty veflels go continually to and fro, be- tween it and the coafts of Java and Borneo. As far as I know, the inhabitants have no connexion with, and are independent of, the Company. On the 26th of January, at funrife, wc faw the hill of Radiona^ which is a high mountain, (ituated far inland, in the ifland of Java ; as likewife part of the ifland of Madura^ whence we took our laft ob- fervation of the land, fteering for the ifland Sohmbo^ Along the coafls of Java^ from yoana^ as far as the point of Grijfe (where the land turns firft to the fouth, to Sourabaya^ and then, Digitized by Google [ i67 ] then, behind the ifland Madura^ in an eaft- criy direÖion, to the Straits of Baity through vrhich it ftretches to the fouth again, as far as the fouthern Indian ocean), there is no danger to be avoided. One may fail with- out apprehenfion along the ihore, at the dif- tance of one or two leagues from the land, only taking care to fteer clear of the pro- jecting points. Many high mountains lie inland; the fore- land is, on the contrary, low, but may be ieen at the diflance of three and a half, or ^ur, leagues. I faw the land of Madura eight or nine leagues off; but the eaftern part of it, it is laid, is vÜible at fifteen, and more, leagues* diflance. We failed till the 28th of January, eaft and north, without feeing any land. In the morning of that day, at funrife, we difco- vered two iflands, from the mafthead, bear- ing N.N.w. which we conceived were the little Pulo LautSy or ^^/^r-Iflands. We at firft thought, that they were the Nou fa Unas. But whichever they were, this is certain, that neither the one, nor the other, ^I 4 are Digitized by Google C i68 ] are placed iti their true ütuations^ in the Company's charts. Much ftrcfs is laid, among the Company's fervants, upon the great danger of the na- vigation to the eaft ward of Batavia^ which may poflibly be encouraged underhand, for political reafons, by perfbns in power j but I did not, in fad, find it (b bad, at leafl: as far as Celebes^ or Macaffer^ as is pretended. It would be well if the charts of thefc parts, which the Company give to their vcffels, were correfl ; it is this that makes the na- vigation fo dangerous. None of the iflands which I met with, except the group called the Hen and Chickens^ are laid down in their true latitudes, as may be proved by my log- book, and thofeof other (hips. This inac- curacy not only renders thefe charts ufelefs, but likewife extremely dangerous; for in- ftcad of being, as they ought, the furcft guide and dependence of the navigator, they miilead him, and become his bane. It is not impoffible, but this may be purpofely kft fo, and that it is an adopted opinion, that it is better to expofe a few (hips to the danger of fhipwreck, than to correft errors, Digitized by Google I i69 ] errors, which might operate to render the navigation towards the Spice Iflands difficult and hazardous for other nations ; for it can- not be pretended, that this notorious faulti-* nels is unknown to the Company, fince the commander of every vcffel, on his return to Batavia^ muft deliver a journal of his voyage to a mafter-mapmaker, or hydrographer, ipecially appointed for that purpofe ; and no one, who, in any degree, ^deferves the name of ièaman, can pafs over fuch grofs miA takes, without noting them down in his log- Ijook : for my own part, at leaft, 1 have feen, jind had in my pofleffion, for a long time, icveral logbooks, in which the fame errors, ivhich I have juft noticed, have been equally mentioned. The government at Batavia^ moreover, lïrïêtly enjoin the commanders of all veffels, not only duly to note all fuch matters in their logbooks, but likewife to give a parti- cular account thereof to the governor gene- ral, or to the chief of the fettlement where they arrive, agreeably to the refolution, to that purpofe, taken on the loth of Decem- ber, 1771 ; and yet the charts have never been Digitized by Google f ^7^ I been altered» (ince that pericxl, no more than before. The next day, the 29th of January, at four o'clock, P.M. ^e faw, from the top, an ifland, bearing n.e. which, from its latitude, we fuppofed was that called Rotterdam. This morning, one of our beft failors, being upon the foretopfail-yard, looking out for the land, was feized with the epilepfy, and fell down, firft upon the railings of the fhip's head, and' aftcr\yards overboard ; he funk inftantaneoufly, without there being any poffibility of faving him. The above ifland was ftill vifible from the mafthcad the following morning, as we had made but little progrefs during the night. At four o'clock in the afternoon, we came in fight of another ifland, paft which we failed at the diflanee of three leagues and a half, and recogpifed it, without any doubt, for that of Rotterdam ; fo that the iflands of the preceding evening muft have been the Noujfa Linas^ although there was a differ- ence of four or five leagues in the latitude. On tlie 31ft, at funrife, we got fight of four or five 'fmall iflands, called the Hen and Chickens^ Digitized by Google C 171 3 Chickens^ and could juft fee the ifland RoU terdam from the mafthead, bearing n.k.w. M^e hence fteered our courfc, in order to run in fight of the iflands the Saunas. From thefe iflands, a large bank ftretches out, to the fbuthward, full five leagues, i3pon which there is a very uneven, rocky bottom, with a depth, in fome places, of fix, and, in others, of twelve, twenty, and more, fathoms. This is called the Laars^ or BooU and all the fliips, which fail to the eaftward, run over it, in order to avoid taking the jarge circuit, which they would have to do, if they failed round its fouthern extrennity. At four o'clock, p.m. we came in fight pf thofe iflands, bearing due eaft from us, which differed, at leafl:, two points, from their fituation as laid down in the charts. We immediately fleered s.e. in order to keep at a good diftance from them, and not to pafs the Boot in too flioal water ; at the beginning of the firft watch we fleered E.s.E. and at midnight, conceiving that we had pafled them, due eaft: we con- tinually founded with a line of forty and fifty fathoms, but found no bottom, fo that we had pafled to the fouth of the bank« The Digitized by Google t ï72 1 The next day, being the ift of February, we difcovered» a little before funrife, the Tonws, or Tunny Iflands, which are three in jnumber, but which we now faw in ooe» bearing N. by w. as llkewife the iflands the Salinas^ bearing n,w. by w. We then ftecrcd Ï.N.E. for the iflands the TAree Brothers^ which, together with the ifland Tanakeke^ we got fight of at eleven o'clock, a.m. the latter bearing eaft, and the former e.n.e. Keeping this courfe, we fleered for the northernmofl: of the Three Brothers ; fhortly afterwards we faw the high land of Celebes^ and found, at noon, by a good obfervation of the fun*s altitude, that all thefe parts lie twenty minutes, or five leagues, more to the fouthward, than they are laid down in tlie charts. At half paft one o'clock, p.m. we flruck Ibundings in fifteen fathoms, upon the bank of Tanakeke, acrofs which we pafTed in four- teen fathoms, fleering between the northern- niofl and middlemofl of the Three Brothers^ but ran within a cable's length of the firfl, in prder to avoid the Ttt( that ftretches out into the middle of the channel, from the other. We afterwards fleered for the ifland Digitized by Google Galijjingy and, at funfet, we anchored at the diftance of a league from it. On the 2d of February, we weighed anchor, and got under fail, in order to work* up to the eaft ward, for the road of Macajfer^ but were prevented from making much pro- grefs by the light winds and contrary cur- rents. At four o'clock, p.m. the intendant of equipment, Xinsen, came on board, with an order from the government at Macajfer^ to pilot the (hip in ; but half an hour after funfet, we again came to an anchor, not having advanced more than half a league during this whole day. The following day, we continued to ply as before, without being able to reach the road, though we advanced a little. On the 4th of February, however, we were enabled to anchor in the outer road, though not without danger, as the intendant of equip- ment, who aéled here as pilot, had the im- prudence, notwithftanding it was already dark, to attempt carrying the fhip into the inner road, and thereby run her aground upon the rocky (hoal, that extends about aa eighth of a league from the foutb end of the ifland Digitized by Google t '7+ ] iOand hy Ly^ although I repeatedly adrao- niflied him of the danger ; but after having been aground for more than half an hour, I had the fatisfaftion of bringing her ofF again. On the 5th, at daybreak, we again went to work, and fucceeded this time, fb that, at noon, we let drop our anchor before Fort Rotterdam^ which we faluted with thirteen guns, and were anfwered with five* Digitized by CMAP- Google [ 175 3 CHAPTER VIL Defcripticn of Mac asser.— 77?f Road. — Injiruaiom for piling into it. — The Environs. — Stafons.^^ Produce. — ManufaSures. — Slavelrade. — Account of the Bcuginefe and Macajfers. — Tkeir Charac- ter. — Arms. — Brefs. — Food. — Bouginefe JVomen. — Religion. — Burials. — Great Trade. — Fort Rotterdam. — Church. — yülage of Vlaar- Di ^f GEN. — Campons. — Buryingground. — ExceU lent Chara£ler of the Clergyman. — Importante of Celzbl^ to the Company, — Their frji Efiablifh- ment here. X HE road of Macaffer is, in the good, or Ibutheaft, monfoon, one of the fineft which I have feen in India, and is very fecure. The iflands Great Ly Ly and Little Ly Ly^ with their reefs, defend it from fbuth- weft to north ; and I conceive that there^is a fafe anchorage, clofe under Great Ly Ly^ in the bad monfoon, and when the north -^ weft winds blow violently. The entrance of the road is between the abovementioned ifland of Ly Ly, and a funken rock, which lies full a quarter of a league Digitized by Google r 176 ] league Ibuth from the point of the reef of Ly Ly^ clofe to which you muft keep, bc- caufe ill' a ftill fea, thjere is no appearance of the rock ; but when there is any fwell, the fca may be feen breaking upon it from a diftance, as foon as you have palFcd the ^bree Brothers. In failing up, you muft keep between the middlemoft and Qorthern-' moft of thefe, and clofer to the latter than to the former, becaufe there is a reef which ftretches out from the middlemoft, and you muft then ftcer e.n.e. and n.e. by e. for the ifland GaliJJïng, as beforementioned, over un- equal depths of feventeen to eleven, fixteen, • nineteen, and twenty-two, fathoms, grey fend, with fmall fliells. ^ The little ifland of Galtjfing lies a quar- ter of a league from the fhore, to which it is united by a reef, which likewife ftretchcs on each fide a (hort quarter of a league from it r it is fbon difcovcred to be an ifland. As foon as you are abreaft of it. Great Hertebeejien^ or Stag Ifland, appears in the north ; you then fteer, with the wind large, n.n.e. you then fee more fmall iflands to the northward, namely, the fouthernmoft and norther'nmoft of the BarrmgSy Little Hertebeejieny or Stag Ifland» Digitized by Google Üland, Duivels^ or DeviFs ïfland, and aftcr% wards the iiland Ly Ly^ for which, as faid before, you then fteer ; and, laftly, for the anchoring-place. The depths along this navigation are un- equal, but they are confined between ten and twenty-two fathoms ; the bottom is fand, and fandey clay. The currents, which muft be carefully attended to, when it is neceflary to work up for the road, fet to the n.e. and $.w. Care muft likewife be taken in work» iiig up, not to ply too much to the weft- ivard, as there are funken rocks, upon which there are no more than fixtecn or eighteen feet water : yet there is no danger, if the Great Hertebeejlerij or Stag Ifland, be not brought to bear more eafterly than i^.jE. You muft ply to weft ward with th^ landwinds, and anchor till the feawinds blow, when you muft bear up for the ihorc, taking likewife advantage of the currents. When you have paffed the ifland Galiffing^ you may run pretty clofe in with the fliorc, till you get near the place called bet Witte Graf^ or the White Tomb^ then look out fpr the rock which forms the ibuthern fide of the entrance to tl^e road ; if you fee no furf * rot,, ji. H breaking Digitized by Google t >78 ] breaking upon it, fteer a little more ofTfhorê^ ^11 the ifland Great Ly Ly bears n.n.e. or N.E. by V. and you will then avoid the dan« ger of falling upon it. The fouth latitude is about 5** 40'. After the ihip was moored, I went on fliore» at five o'clock, p.m. with the Com«> pany's papers, and waited firfl upon the go- vernor, Mr. Paul Godfrey van deh Voort, and afterwards upon Mr. Bernard VAN Pleuren, late fecond in command of this government, but now the governor tleö of Amboyna ; for the purpofe of convey- ing whom to his government my (hip had called at Macajfer. I requefted of both thcfe gentlemen that all poffible expedition might be tifed in the difpatch of my veflel, as there was great reafon to fear, that the eaft moii- foon would fbon fet in, which would be the occafion of a very long voyage j and they both promifed me, that I ihould be di(^ patched with all fpeed. The environs of this place arc very plea(^ ant; it lies in an extenfive plain, which reaches to the foot of a high iiange of moun- tains, fituated feven or eight Dutch miles to the eaftward, and which divides this part of Cekbcs^ Digitized by Google t Ï79 ] Celebes^ \yiiig to the weftward of the bay of Soriij and fbuth of the gulph of Tominij into two parts. This range is called the moun- tains of Bontain^ becaufe the fouthern part of it terminates in the diflriét of that name. This plain is covered, as far as the eye caa reach, with rice-fields, and pafture-grounds^ which are interfperfed, here and there, with finall groves of fruitbearing or Ihady trees, and watered by drains made out of the larger rivers which defcend from the moun- tains. The feafbns, known here, as throughout the eaft, by the denomination of monfbons, are the fame as at Jitüa $ the fbutheafl: mon- ibon being called the good, and the north-» wcfl the bad one. The firfl brings always (at leafl, in the country wefl of the above range of mountains) a clear fky, and dry w^eather ; the lafl is accompanied with violent winds, and continual heavy rain : but to the eafl:\Vard of the ridge, the exad contrary takes place ^ for, while the eaft monfoon brings on fair weather to the cafl- ward, nothing but gufts of wind and Ihowers of rain are to be met with to the weflward^ £o that the different feafona of fummer and w 2 wintAT Digitized by Google [,i8o } winter are felt, at the fame time, at no nióre than eight Dutch miles diftance from each other. The chief produftion of the ifland Celebes is rice, of which it yields more than a fuf- ficicncy to maintain its own inhabitants, though they are very numerous; but it is not fo good as the Java rice. Much cotton is likewife produced, of which the inhabi* taiits make women's drefTes, which arc held to be the fineft of all India *• * Thefe gsu-ments are called ckmhajs\ they are reel checquercd, mixed with blue, but dull coloured ; they reach from head to foot, arid are often fold from ^\x to ten Spanifli dollars a-picce. The Bougihéfe often import cotton from the ifland Bali^ both raw and fpun into yarn : at Bati they do not underftand packing cotton, but ftulf it in balkets» The Bouginefe likewife manufa(^ure beautiful filk belts, in which they ^^ their krifles ; iilfo a kind of paper, from the inner bark •f A ftftall treci in which they wrap their fine cambays; they often dye this paper of various colours, and export much of it to Manilla^ and many otlier places ; it refcmbles the Otaheite cloth. They make fire anus, but cannot make gunlocks; they alfo call fmall brafs guns, which they call rantakJka; thm larger rantakka is about Gx feet long> and carries a half«pouad ball. They are curious in fillagree, work, both in gold and illver. Captain Forrest was informed, that they (ailed in their paduakans, or prows» to the tiorthern parts of Nra» Nsi^ ht^d» probably Carpentaria-Bsiyj to gather fea-fwallow (liett sk mer)^ which they fell to the annual Chinefe junk at Macafftr c they laid jilfathat gold was to be got there. 7^ Goié Digitized by Google Gold is lxke.wi(ê found in the Jtingdom of léOehoej and in the eaftera parts of the ifland» which is partly coUeded for the Compa;ny at Gorontah^ The flavetrade is alfo much profecuted here, moft of the caftern fettlenacirts, Batfir ^ia^ and Java^ being provided with A*v« from Celebes. They arc, in general» kid^ napped, and fold in fecret to the Europeans» who carry them away in their (hips *. Of the various nations who inhabit C^Zf^^j, the Bonians, or Bouginefe -|-, and the Ma- <^flers, are the moft known ; the latter are the moft confiderable of thofe who have been, forced by the arms of the Company to enter into alliauce with them ; their lands likewife lie near thofe of the Company, and they arCy therefore, better known in hiftory, than the» jnore diftant kingdoms and nations. . . The Bpuginefe, at prefect the moft pow:^. ^rfu^l nation in Qdebes^ though a century :ago * Aboiit one hundred (laves are ani\ually purchafe^ at Macajfer by the Dutch Company^* for thdr own fcrricei tvA conveyed to Batavia ; the whole remainder of this ioiqnilOQ^ traffic i^ in the hands of private individuals ^ ^fe inb^^dinttf ^f thqfe two places. 7*. f Called, in general, Buggeffeshy the Englifli. T. N 3 they Digitized by Google [ ]8a ] they came iii no compariibn with the Ma« callers, who were then the moft celebrated and potent nation of the ifland, are of a mid? die ftature» ftrong, and mufcular, and of a lightbrown complexion ; there are fbme of them who are even nearly as fair as Euror peans, efpecially among the women, whq have pleaiing countenances^ except that their nofes are rather flattiih. The Macaflers, on the other hand^ are not fo handlbme, but have a more manly and more martial appearance ; they pbfTeis likewife more courage^ and are greater ene*- mies of treachery, while the Bougincfe will never attack their adveriaries openly, but always endeavour tq deftroy them by trea-* chery : they will even take away the lives of fuch as have never offended them, if they can do it without being difcovered, be it iMïly, as they flightingly (ay^ to try whether their kriffes are good ; to which diabolical temper the Europeans ^t Macajfer often be- come the yi^ims, as even happened during my very fliort ftay t}iere. Their krüïes a|id ailagays are, in general, jpoifonedy as are likewife the little darts Digitized by Google t «83 ] ^vhich they blow through thtir fampits^ or i^ooden tubes. Their drefs eoniifts in a piece of cotton jcloth^ red or blue, wound round the body, and drawn tight between the legs. The upper part of the body is naked. Upon the head they wear a piece of cotton> like an handkerchief^ with which they cover their hair» which is vtry long, and quite black. Neither men, nor women, fufFer any hair to grow upon any other parts of the body; but, as is cuftomary with all the Mahomedans in India» they pluck it out, by the roots, as ibon a^ it appears. Their food is rice, fifli, and pifang, and their drink water, though they have lifec» yfiitfagmre^ or palmwine. The Bouginefe women are, in general, much handforper than thofe of any other Indian nation. There are fome among them, who, for the contour of their faces, would be efteemed beauties even in Europe ; and did they but poflef^ thp lilies and roies of our nortjiern fair, they wp\|ld be eqyal to the handfomeft of the fex. They are all moft ardently addióled to the fenfual pleaflires pf love J andj^ goaded on by the hotteft fires N4 pf Digitized by Google t 1«4 3 óf luft, are ingenious in every refincm*tit o^ amorous enjoyment} on this accoudt) the Bougiiiefe girls are preferred thrpugSoyt the eaft, for concubinje$i both by Europeans and by Indians* Mr. van Pleuren, who had refided here for eight years, and feveral other credible people, informed me^ that among thefe women, and thofe of Macaffer^ were many who, in common with fome of ^e Portuguefe women at Batavia^ pofTeiied the fecret of being able, by certain herbs and other means, to difqualify their inconftanC lovers from repeating the affront to them^ infomuch, that the offending part fhrunk entirely away 5 with other circumflances, which decency requires that I (hould fup* prefs* The religion univerfally received here, i$ that of Mahomet, which allows the men four legal- wives, if they can maintain them| but if they do not like each other, they feparate with as much eafe as they before became united. Their burials are performed without much ceremony : the body \% wrapped in a piece of white, linen, . and laid in the grave, upon which fome fweetfcénted flowers are ftrewn, Digitized by Google I >«5 1 ftrewn, land two ftones ere^ed, one at the heady and the other at the feet. This is the whole of what the ihortnefs of my ftay allowed me to colleél refpeding the charaders and cuftom$ of theie people, fy renowned throughout the caft ♦. Fort ♦ '* The M acaflbrs and Bugguefs people, who Come an* ^* nually to trade at Sumatrm^ arc looked upon by the inhabi* *^ tants as their fuperiors, in manners ( the Makys affedto^ « copy their (iyie of drefs, and frequent ailulioiis to tbiEir ** feats and achievements are made in their fongs. Thdr re* *^ putation for courage, which certainly furpafles that of ail ^ others in the eaflern feas, acquires them this flattering dif* ^ tlnétion ; they alfo derive part of the refpeft (hewed them^ ** from the richnefs of the cargoes they import, and the fpirit ** with which they fpend the produce*'* Maksden's Su^ maira^ page 174. The Bugguefles are a high-fpirited people, and defenrq the character given of Malays in general by M. Poivaxt in hii Travels of a Philofopher : " fond of adventures, emigration, ^ and capable of undertaking the moft dangerous enterprifes." Tlie word Bugguefs has become, amongft Europeans In the cafl of India, an expreflion meaning the fame as foldier, juft as fcpoy is in the weft. The people of Celtbei are yery in- duftrious ; they are alfo adventurous merchants % their prows go weftward to Btncwltn^ Malacca^ and as far as Achetn and 3 time Very infignificant, and had united themielves to the Company by the famous Bam contraél, which was concluded on the 1 8th of November, 1667, and to which the Macaflers were afterwards compelled equal- ly to accede. Since that time the fyftem of policy adopted by the Company ha» been to exalt Boni^ and to humble Goach ; and in later times this conduél became the fburce of many wars. But in order to throw more light upon the affairs of Macajfer^ it is neceflary to become acquainted with the principal kingdoms and ftates of Celebes J and to have a Iketch of their hiftory down to the prefent time. A manu- fcript on this fubjedt has fallen into my hands» which Mr. Blok, formerly governor of Macaffer^ compofed from authentic re-» cords, and continued down to his time, that is, till 1759 : in order, however, not to re- peat too much of what Valentyn may already have written, whofe accounts of Macafer I have not by me, I Ihall only ilate the moft prominent parts of the ]iif- tory of Celebes fince the beginning of the prefent century. CHAP- Digitized by Google I »9* ] CHAPTER VIII, Jccount of the Kingdom of Macasser.— ?%«> afuient Traditions. — Sketch of their Hilary. — Oath of .Fidelity to the Company taken iy ike 'Kings of BoNi and of Goach. — Confiitution of GoACH. — Laws. — Religion. — Former Profpt^ rlty of the Macajfcrs. — Kingdcm of TEtLO.— CySANDRABON.Y* X HE empire or kingdom of Macajfer, ivhich, before the conqueft of it by the Dutch^ was fo clofely united with thofeof ffello and Sandrabony^ that it made, as it were, but one ftate, extended along the fea- coaft, from Boeleboele^ in the bay of Boni^ to the point of Lafem (called Laffoa^ in our maps), and thence weftward to the point of Tourattiy or Tanakekcy and along the weft coaft, northward, to Tanette^ or Aganondje^ and reached inland as far as Boni and Soptngy through the whole of which, the original language of the Macaflcrs then pre- vailed. The kings of Goacb and Telia arc both called Digitized by Google C 193 ] called kings of Macajfer^ although each is a. feparate ftates, taking their names from their relpeólive capitals, Goach and T!ello. The ancient fabulous traditions of Ma- coffer^ according to a manufcript, tranflated out of their language, of which I had the perufal, make mention of four kings, before the coming of Toemanoerong, which fig- nifies, one defcended from heaven. It happened, as thefe traditions relate, at a certain time, after the death of thefe four kings, that a beautiful woman, adorned with a chain of gold, defcended from heaven, and was acknowledged by the Macaflers for their queen, under the aforefaid denomina<* ' tion of ToEMANOE>lONG.^ Upon hearing the report of the appear- ance upon earth of this celeftial beauty, the king of Bantam went thither, and fought her hand in marriage, though he had before wedded a princefs of Bontain. His fuit was granted, and a fon was begotten in this marriage, of whom Toemanoerong was two or thre^ years pregnant, fo that the child could both walk and talk, imme- diately after he was born ; but he was VOL. II* o very Digitized by Google [ 194 ] very much diftorted ih fliapc. Hi« name was Toema-Salingaberieng. When he was grown up, he broke the chain of gold, which his mother had brought with her from heaven, in two pieces, after which, jhe, together with her hufband, and his brother, vanifhed in a moment, taking with her the one half of the chain, and leaving the other, and the empire, to her fbn. This chain, which the Macaflers fometimes fay is heavy, fometimes, light, at one time, dark coloured, aiKl at another, bright, was ever afterwards one of the principal regalia of the kings of Goack, till in the revolution of Grain Bontalancas, it was loft, as I was informed^ together with feveral other regal infignia. The manufcript I alluded to, traces the origin of the princes of Goacb from this foil of ToEMANOERONG, who, together with his three fucceffors, it is added, did not die, but vanished in the fame manner as their parents ; "and the eighteenth king after him began his reign under the name of Paducca SiRi Sultan Shah Badin Ismael. Although this king did not long^occupy the Digitized by Google C m ] the throne^ he waged a furious war againft the king of Bonh who was reinforced by the arms of the Company. He was dcpofcd by the nine eftatcs of the country of Goach^ and they elefted in his ftead the king of Tdlo^ who was called Mappa Orangie, but as king of Goach he took the name of Paducca Siri Sulta^t SiRA JOUDEEN. In the year 1718, the Macaffer prince, and afterwards famous rebel, Caraing, or Grain Bontalancas, fled from Goach, > having killed a daughter of the former king, and fought an afylum among the Dutch, living, under the Company^s protedlion, in the campon Baro. He afterwards went from here to Sumiawa, and aflifted in the war which raged between the Sumbawers and Bdliers, in which the king of the for- mer was killed. He wedded the daughter of this prince, who was afterwards queen of Sumbanjoa^ and whofe mother, marrying with the king of Goach^ perfuaded her daughter to be divorced from Grain Bon- TALANCA8, and to marry a prince of Sum^ bawa. In the year I 724, the king, Sf raJoudeen, o z gave Digitized by Google ( 196 ] gave up entirely to his fon the kingdom of Hello^ and taking upon himfelf the fole ad- miniftration of that of Goach^ foon gave fa much umbrage to the Macafler princes, and efpecially to Bontalancas, that the latter, who was become both furious and'defperate, from his forcible feparation from bis wife, formed a refolution of taking ample revenge upon the king. In order to compais this purpofe, he procured, not only feveral of the difcontented Macafler princes, but like- wife many Bouginefe of high rank, to take part in his confpiracy ; and he afterwards entered into the moft folemn engagement with the famous pirate Aroe Soenkang, and his captain Touassa, to dethrone the kings of Goach ai^d Bonty and wholly to expel the Dutch from Celebes, Accordingly he kindled the flames of war, in the year 1734, in Bontain, whence they foon fpread far and wide. In the beginning of the war, Bontalancas gained many advantages, and made fo much impreflion upon the king of Goacb^ that on the 5th of November, 1735, he fled from Goach to ^ello ; upon which the Macafler cftates im- mediately eledied his grandfon, furnamed Malawangese Digitized by Google [ 197 3 Malawangese AöduL Haerman Shoer^ twentieth king of Goach. ^ut he likewife was forced to yield to the arms of the rebels, and abandon his capital^ which was in^me- diately taken poffeffion of by Grain Bon* TALANCAS \ while the king, together with a confiderable number of Macaffers, fled as far as Fort Rotterdam^ where, in the year 1739, he put himfclf under the protedlion of the Companyé Grain Bontalancas, being matter of the country of Jf^adja^ and of part of the kingdom of Si?f//V came down, a Piort time before, to the • northern ; provinces of the Company, and papfed himfelf tp bf inftalled king QÏ Goacb. . • r Soon afterwards, he fummoned ,Fort Rot^ terdamy in xh^.' ll^nie of the three united empires of J5w/, Goach^ and Wadjo. Buf the governor not being fpeedy enough in his determination, the whole force of Goach and JVadjo foon ap()eared upon the plain be- fore the fort. The garrifon, reinforced by a body of Bouginefe, who .were attached to the Company, and by the Company's fubr je6ls, marched againft the enemy the fame 4ay, being the 16th of May, 1739, and f^U* 03 in^ Digitized by Google [ tD« J ing upon them with great fury, foon ptit them to flight, and thro-i*ing tip É battery of fixtecn pieces of cannon, where a good num*^ ber of them took poft, they returned iti tri-» tinlph to the fort. The enemy» on the other hand^ in- trenched themfelves againft u$> and daily ikirmifhei took place^ till on the 14th of July, when the country being fufficiently dry, that the artillery could be tranfpocted^ the garrifon made another fally, and being joined by their Bouginefe allies, and other auxiliaries, together with the Company'i fubjeóts arid the Macafler refugees before* toentiüncd, they fell upon the enemy, early in the morning of the 17th of July, by fur- prize, and after an obftinate refiftance, and a bloody battle, which laftéd till four o'clock in the afternoon, they gained a complete viflory. This viftory was of the greater import- ance, as by it the treacherous hopes of the Macafler refugees were fruftrated; for though they had joined our troops^ they Were almoft all inclined to the rebel party, and had concerted with their chief, that, as fbon as the .balance turned the leaft in his favour, Digitized by Google [ '99 ] favour, they would join hkn, and turn th^ai- iclves againft us* Three days after this, when the rebels again tried their chance» they were beat anew, and put to flight by our troops, leav- ing behind them many dead and wounded. Crain Bontalancas, who had thrown jhimfelf into GoacA with all his troops, was himielf wounded. Our men purfued them botly, and at three o^clock in the after* Aopn, they came before the town, and im- mediately threw up fome batteries, which were ready in the evening, and played with fo much cfk£t during the night, that at four o'clock the next morning our com- mander in chief. Admiral Smout, received intell^^nce that the enemy had abandoned the town, and had fled to the mountains ; by which the war, on this fide of Celeiesy was put an end to. The regalia of Goach were immediately collefted, and, together with the kingdom of Macq/fer^ were re- ftored to the monarch who had laft fled fromGM^^, Abdul Haerman Shoer, and to the regent of the empire. Moft of the adherents of Crain Bonta- j^i ANCAS then came in, and fubmiffively en- Q 4 treated Digitized by Google [ 200 ] treated for pardon. Among them, was & man of upwards of a hundred years of age. Grain Alamanpang, a younger brother of Grain Pomliaan, who had been a f\x^ gitive of the former century. On furren- dering his kris, he fpoke as follows : " I have beheld this city of GoacA, in its " proudeft luftre, when it iniled over the *' whole ifland of Celebes ; I afterwards was ** a witnefs to its firft humiliation, when we were fubdued by the Gompany j it was then thought its fame and honour were ** greatly tarniftied, yet it was iftill populous ** and refpefted; but now I look around me, ** and behold nought but ruins and diflio- ** nour. I furrendered my kris, the firft •* time at Samboepo^ once more at Sourabaya^ " and now here, for the third time, to the conquering arms of the Company ; leave to an old man now the only confplation *♦ that remains — to die in peace." He received a free pardon, and his kris was reftored to him. A (hort time afterwards, intelligence was received that Grain Bontalancas had died of his wounds. King Abdul Haerman Shoer dying on Digitized by Google t -20I 3 on the i27th of July^ 1742, hi the fcvcn- teenth year of his age, his brother, Mapp A Bab ASS A, a child of eight years old, was chofen fucceflbr to the crowii of Goach^ un- der the guardianfhip of the regent, Grain Mad jENNANo. Nothing material occurred during his reign* He died on the 21ft of December, 1753, and was fücceedcd by his ion AmAs Madina, furnamed Pattema Thar IE, who- was the twenty-fecond king of Goach\ and in the year 1758, was re- named Battara Go ach,. by the regent, who was, at the fame time, h^s grand-- father. * Thus far the manufcript of Mr. Blok. What follows, was related to me at Ma-- cajfer. After the death of his grandfather, the regency fell into the hands of the uncle of king Battara. This man, urged by the ambition of enjoying the crown himfel^ caufed fo much vexation to his nephew and fovereign, that the latter abandoned his • kingdom and Celebes^ and fled to the weft- ward, no one knew whither. But the regent, feeing that matters were pot yet fufficiently ripe, nor the jiobles of Goacb Digitized by Google [ aoz J Goacèi properly prcpare4 to admft of his iiforping the crown bimfelf, contrived that 9k younger brother of t|^ king (hould bo exalted to the throne } whofe life, hovi^» ever, he equally found noeana to embitter ib much» that he alfo quitted his dignity smd counjtry in defpsiir ^» Upon this, the artful regent ^as Gonfecrp[ted king, and he took upon himfelf, at th^ fame time, the «office of regent, or prime roinifter» in or-? dïer to avoid another^s playing the lame part yfflm\i he. had ^<5ied before» This prince was on the throne in the year 1775, when I was there. He Was defcribed to me as a very wife naonafch^ who diftrtbuted impartial juilice (p his iUb* jeüs, and kept a watchful eye over all the foreign relations of his country; efpecially over the kingdom of ^ot^j for which, u\ ^ It was ia tlie year ijSj, that the kiog of Go rice, fago, caflia, tortoife-fhell, pearls, &c. : the an« '^ chorage is good off the river's mouth* Half a day's fail *^ farther north, along the weft coad of the Senva, is the river ** Peeneekee, not very confiderable. Farther on are two places *« called Akolingan and Telludopinj which are pretty well in- *^ habited. Continuing Hill north, you come to the river ** Se^aj not very confiderable; then to the river Loo^ fa- " mous for boat-building : then you come to Mankakooy ^ where there is gold, and much fago, very cheap; they have ** alfo cailia and feed-pearl. Being now come to the bottom ** of J?jr^f/}-Bay, the fago-trec jihounds very much ; and in •* niany parts of the Bewa^ there are fpots of foul ground, on ** which they filh for fwaliow, which they generally carry to ** Macaffhr^ to fell to the china junk. On the eaft fide of '* the Sewa^ the country is not fo well inhabited, as on the ^< wefl fide. The foutheaft point of the Si^a is called Fa-^ '' j^^g'^ • ^^c<^ ï^ ^ clufter of iflaiids, rather faiall, with gop4 I* j^ofhorage amongft tlicm." T, p 3 traditions Digitized by Google [ "4 ] traditiohs affirm that their firft king like- wife defcended from heaven. When he came upon earth, he had no name, but wa$ afterwards called Matta Salumpq; by the people^ iignifying as much as êM-feting. He married a priiiceft of Toro^ who was equal- ly of celeftlal origin ; he had by her one ion and five daughters, from whom all the fucceeding kings of Boni are deiccnded, and of whofe poftcrity, borp from mar- riages with royal princeifes, fuch only be- ing, in every refpeö, entitled tq the crown, ^cccording to Mr. Blok's account, no other remained alive, in 1759, than Aroe Pa- I.AICKA, the grandmother of the then reign- ing king of Goach. She was ftill living when I was at Macaffer in 17751 arid go- verned as queen of I'annetta. This, their firft monarch, inftituted the Jaws of the country, which are ftill ob- ferved ; he made the royal ftandard, call- ed fForong Porong ; and appointed fcvcn eleftors, under the denomination of ma^ toua petoes. Thefe are hereditary in feven families, though it ha§ fometimes happened that two, and even three of them, have been of the fame lineage. This high office defcends Digitized by Google descends uppn womep, ^8 wcJJ as lupojtj roen, iVU mgtters of iwportapcc, rc^tiug tp fhc Iflngdom, muft bc determined by jbem : their power, in particular, extends ovcf tjie ^Iftftiou and depofition of tjxe fcings, and the sijLakipg of peace and war *# iü»g MATf A Salompo, % the n^Jtives^ f^er having reigned forty y^ars oyer tjtiexp, afccndcd inyere compelled, m *1^ heginniag of ^h^ fevA^x- ^ tieent]» ccjotöry, to confornji to the Mahp- »ed»nre^gMVi,*ttd the,co5i4iticvi was^mp/e- avef , impoife^ upo» them, thiat t,he enejpies of M(K»pr jObould Ufcewilfe he t^he enemie3 pf ^M:, ,b«t ^iot tbc ^enemies of ]^o^t thofe of MacaJ'er. * Accordingio Foeest, Btf»/ is governed by a prince, who is caUed pajong. He is cleftcd for life by feven nobles, « fixed number, which may be kept up by ihe paJ4mg (bllt AOt cncreafcd), from the iiyons (certain freetioWcrs). Tte fajwg is often rcOtaincd by a fort of parliament, eleftcd by the freeholders: it confills of 400 members, 200 of which are called nattoua^ 100 nrc called pabicharro^ and 100 are called gahrang. ** But of this," he adds, ** I never learnt a M diftina account ; ^nd J mention it only as a hint for future « travellers/» f, P 4 This Digitized by Google t *i6 1 This was the firft blow which was given to the greatnefs of Bonij although they were able to bring feventy thoufaiid fighting men into the field. The hatred which, by this means, was excited among the Bouginefe, againft the Macaflers, was greatly inftrumental to the fuccefs of the arms of the Company againfl M^caffer. Radja Palacca, a Bouginefb prince, whofe exertions in particular con- tributed much to the completion of the con- qucft of Macajfer^ was afterwards chofen king of Boniy by the elcftors, and rendered himfelf fo famous and powerful, extending the bounds of his kingdom in every way, that he was called by his people Toenee Sombaya, fignifying, a king before whom all others tnuji humble themfelves. He died on the 6th of April, 1696, and was fucceeded by his fon, Lapatoua, as fifteenth king of Bonu who, after having been the caufe of much uneafinefs to the Company, died in the year 171 3. His daughter, Battara Todja, like wife called Aroe Toemoerang, fucóeeded him, as the fixteenth fovereign of Bonu After reigning Digitized by VjOOQIC I 217 1 reigning a (hort time, ihe refigned the go« vernment, in the year 17 15, into the hands of her half-brother, Lapadany Sadjati, 'furnamed Toapannara Aroe Palacca; but his ill treatment of his (ifter and her hufband» whom he caufed to be rampajfedj or beaten with flicks, and whom he threw into confinement at Boni^ without any ihadow of reafon, or legal pretence, was fo much difapproved of, and refented by the nobles, that (hortly afterwards, on the 20th of January, 1720, he was not only depofed, but, together with his wife, was thrown in- to prifon. After this, the Bouginefe again gave the kingdom to Battara Todja, who, however, direöly refigned it anew, to her cldeft half-brother, the dethroned king oiGoach^ Sappualee, then fiirnamed Ma- DANRANG ; he, likcwile, was depofed in the year 1 724, after a fliort and turbulent reign, on account of his difiblute condud, and his youngeft brother, Topawanoi, or Aroe Mano, afterwards called Cr aik Bes* SEi, was chofeu in his ftead ; on the fourth day after his appointment he was alfb fet afide, and in his room Battara Todja ^as chofen queen for the third time ; (he became Digitized by Google I «« ] beeamie at the fame time datoua^ or q\i«en of Loeim^ and not loog aftenir^rds q«e.en x»f iS'c/ivg' alüb ; her bxiibaod was appointed 4U)<>regeQt with her, of the kingdom ; he died in the year 1725» after which ihe was married, for the fourth time, to AroB Katoe, who was, ihordy afi:er his nuf- tiais equaiif n^ade co-regent of:* the king- dom. Bét the queen being at variance with her brothers, ogae of whom ^ had caitfed to he killed, and being di^tiÜ^ '^ed With Mr. Goubiu^, ^ thai: tioie. tiie Company's governor at Macaffer^vitfA awajr to Sopingy where {he ^aufed herfelf to h? in- augurated as queen. Her hufhand^ the regent, Aroe Ka^oe, tMw thinking himfelf king of Boni^ refoly- ed to fupplant bis queen and confort, and to take again to his bed his firft beioved wife, Cjrain Bonto Majene, whom he had re- pudiated in order to iCnarry the queeu s hut when ttós defign was difcovered, m ' the year jjzfi, he was itximediately declared UQWorthy of the regentlhip, and his life was lb much endangered, that he was x)blig- icd to fly by night to TV//^, where be re- x:eived proteöion. He afterwards becaooe connedted Digitized by Google I «"9 J |:oiitie6led with Grain Bontax^akcas, ^nd loft his life in the commotions excited by that famous rebel. In the year 1730^ the three remaining brothers of the queen of Bonij came from BoidOHj whither they had fled, for fear of their fifter, and took refuge under the pro- \ teftion of the Company, who allowed them to refide in the campon Bare. " The queen, in the mean time, continued difcontented with the Company, becaufe the province oi Bontain was withheld from her; while her madanrangj or general .in chief^ and her tomarilalangs^ or privy counfellors, ponduéted every thing ^t Boni according to their own wifhes, and adhering to the ene- njics of the Company who arofe about this time, Aroe Sbenkang, and his followers, ^/ and the rebel, Crain Bontai^ancas, they prepared the way for the ruin of the king- dom of Bom^ which was effefted in the fol- lowing maimer : Aro£ Seenkang, a difcontented Wad- jorefe prince, had, for fome time, together with his captain, laut^ or admiral, ioufpi^ been committing piracies; he had taken Pajjir Digitized by Google [ 220 j Pajfir and Coety^ and had even attacked the yefiels of the Company. Thefe freebooters, therefore, in the years 1735 and 1736, carrying their depredations to a great excefs, in the neighbourhood of Mandhar and Cajelie^ were encountered by the cruifing veffels of the Company, but to no purpofe ; and, in the beginning of the year 1736, they landed in iight of For}: Rotterdamj on the adjacent iflands, belong- ing to the Company, where they plundered the inhabitants, and burnt their hou£bs« Upon this our government equipped fome veflels at Macajfer^ who attacked the ene- XBy, but the battle was flopped by the evening coming on ; and in the night, \h^ enemy having effeéted their pufpofes, cun^ ningly gave us . tjic flip, and got ^way tq Wadjo^ without having fuffered any material ^mage. TheWadjorefe, nqtwithftanding the eanif eft reprefentatlons of the Company's ferr vants, obflinately refufed to deliver up A roe SgENKANG; and the Bouginefc, in.confe^ quence, declared war againft them. But it was profecuted with very little vigour j Digitized by Google [ 241 ] fi>r the general, and the counfellors of Bom, as we have before feen, were in coUufion with the enemy ; whence this war had an unfortunate iflue. The queen of Boni perceiving the treach* ery, though too late, fent for the princes, her brothers, who had left Bouion, and . were gone over to the Company, and gave the command of the army to the eldefl ; but matters had already taken {o bad a turn, that there was fcarcely any poffibility of retrieving them, fb that they were com- pelled to make peace with Wadjo. . A little before, our people^ at the requeft of the Soping nobles, had let Aroe Ta- NETE, furnamed the Mad Duke *, go to Soping^ to defend that country againft the Wadjorefe ; but he, attending little to the war with fVadjo, procured, by his intrigues, the Sopingers to depofe their queen, and elefl liim for their datoua^ or king, in her .» Of this Arob Tanetb it was related, that, like the ancient inhabitants of CUUbes^ he was a cannibal, and re- markably fond of human fledi, fo that he even ufed to .fdtten his prifoncrs, and cutting their heart out alive, he eat ic jaw, with pepper and (alt| eficeming it the moft delicious morfeLof all, S. ftead : Digitized by Google [ 2ti ] (lead ; after which he likcwife eontritrei t9 have himfelf chofen king by the Boogineiê^ of which elc£tion they gave communicatioa to the Company's fervants at Fort Rotterdam i but it met with their marked difapprobation ; and when the queen herfelf came forward, he was obliged to give way to her by flight* ,Upön this, the Wadjorefe made them« felves mailers of Bönt\ appointed another queen, acknowledged the rebel CraiH BoNTALAMCAS for king of Goach^ and de- clared themfelves, in this manner, as three united countries, and enemies of the Corner pany. In the month of April, 1739, they came down, took pofleiEon of Ctoachy and fum«» moncd Fort Rotterdam to furrcnder. What happened afterwards, I have before related^ * in the account I have given of Goach. When the Company were faved by the fortune of aims, the next ftep to btf^takea was to relieve Boni ; but this, for fome un* known reafon, was only done by halves ; for when the Wadjorefe were twice beaten^ . they were not purfued as 'far as their capital^ föjj^r/ï; and thofe people, who rcfufed to re- new their engagements with the Company, were Digitized by Google [ ^^3 ] ^wcrte fïiffered to do » they liked^ while the difputes with Wadjo^ as well oo the part of the Company^ as on the part of Boni^ remaiti unfettled to the prefent,day. [Written ia the year 1759.] In the mean time, in order^ as was pre** tended, to forward the reftoration of the public tranquillity, the queen of Boni was prevented from profecuting her juft claim againft Arob Tanetb, or the Mad Dukei and, to her further chagrin, the grant of jBö«- tüin^ which province had been given to that princeis, in the fame manner as to her pre- deceflbrs, as a reward for paft fcrvices, by the Dutch government at Batavia^ was an-* nulled^ She died in the year 17499 and her half-^ brother. Lama Ossono, was chofen fuc- ceffot* to the crown of Bonip under the name of Abdul Zadshab Djalaloedeen, who Was the xeigning king when I was at CfkieSf in 1775. He was then a man of upwards of eighty years oid, and h€ dwelt in the Bouginefe campon> which is not far f^m ow town of Vlaardmgen^ aad, like moft of tfat^ native villages^ is a place of little confideration. He Digitized by Google [ a*4 J He did not flicw much efteem for the Europeans ; he governed his fubjeds in aa arbitrary manner, with much fcverity, and paid very little regard to the laws of the country, which he always explained ac^ cording to his wilL All criminals are accufed before the king, who cotnmiffipns his prime minifter, and one or two more of the nobles, to examine into the affair* As foon as a report is made concerning it, if the culprit be thought worthy of death, the king gives a lign with his eyes, and he is immediately carried out and killed with a kris. If aggravating cir- ilances occur, the king gives dire£tions for a more fevere puniihment ; the criminal is then bound to a tree, and he is pricked full of (kin-deep wounds with kriffes, and rubbed with fugar or molafles ; the whole body is foon entirely covered with ants, and the poor wretch is not relieved by death, before he has fuffered the greateft torments. But Que of the grandees of the kingdom, or a man of noble birth, is never otherwife put to death for any crime than by the piorc merciful method of plunging a kris into his bofom. Mr. Digitized by Google t *'5 3 Mr. VAN Pleuren related to me thé following inflance of the cruel char after ,of^ this monarch, which had occurred about two years before. Two princes, grandfons of the king, be- came both enamoured of the fame perfon^ a young princefs, who was fcarcely more than twelve years old ; (he was an exquifite beauty, poflelfed of every accompliihment that an education at the court of an eaftern monarch could procure her. Both the lovers, notwithftanding their earneft foli- citations that (he would make choice of one who (hould be the favoured youth, could not prevail upon her, for a long time, to decide between them ; overcome, however, at length, by the vehemence of their en- treaties, (he at laft declared in favour of the youngeft. This, as might be (uppofed, oc- cafioned an implacable enmity between the two princes, which was carried to (uch a height, that they drew their krifles againft each other, in a folitary place, with fuch fury, that, had they not been fortunately feparated by (bme 'people who came in time to prevent a fatal cataftrophe, they would VOL. II. . 0^ probably Digitized by Google [ 226 ] probably have both fallen vi^ms to tfareir jeajoufy and love. ; As fbon as this occurrence came to the ears of the king, he fent for both princes, and reproached them with great alperity, that they were near depriving him of two of his children^ by their ra(h and foolilh con- dudy which was the more unpardonable, being merely for the fake of a woman. He then commanded them immediately to di(^ mifs their animofity, and to live thencefor- ward together with their accuftomed frater- nal afFc6tion. Thus far all was right. He next fent for the young princefs, and fternly alked her, how ihe dared to avow a choice between two of his grandfons ? The poor girl, trembling and in tears, could make no Other reply, than that ihe had not done fb before (he was abfolutely compelled to it, and was afraid of fatal confequenccs, if flic had remained obftinate in her refufal. This difculpation was of no avail to ibften the indignation of the king ; he knew, he faid, a way to prefcrve his children, both from fuch dcbafing love, and from the dan- gerous Digitized by Google [ 427 ] gerous confequences of it, and that it would be an unheard-of event that one of his fons ihould lofe his life for the fake of a boyi(h attachment. He then gave the wonted fign of deaths and the wretched objeél of the violent love, and furious hatred, of the two princes, was carried out, and pierced to the heart, without there being any one found who durft pretend to be her advocate, or that her youth and beauty made the leaft impreflion upon the obdurate heart gf the cruel monarch. Q^t CHAP- Digitized by Google ( «8 3 CHAPTER X. Account of the Kingdom of Sop ing. — Sketch of its Hiftóry. — Loehoe. — Its Produllions. — Dijllute CorAuSl of the frtftnt ^een. — Tanetk.— Aj fiijhory. — The Country cf Mandhar. — Its Go^ verfment. — ^ögJ^rK.— Toadja, tfr Wapjo.— Itsjmgitlar Cmfiitution. HE kingdom of Soping was anciently one of the moft powerful ftates of Celebes ; it lies partly along the weftern ftiore of the bay of Boni ; to the north, it is bounded by the great lake, called Tamparang Laba ; and to the foiith, it borders upon Lamoeroe^ which, together with feveral other fmall ftates, formerly belonged to it, but which after- wards became either independent or united to Boni. It yields nothing but paddee. In the year 1661, after the flight of Radja Palacca, it became k fief of Macaffer ; but, in the year 1667, it was reftored to its liberty by the Company. The kings of Soping have been allied by marriages Digitized by Google C "9 ] marriages to thofe of Bêni from time im-» memorial. The Sopingers pretend, in the iame manner as thofe of Macafjir and Bmu that their firft king equally defended froa^ heaven. After him, a feries of fovereigu^ as well Icings as queens, ruied over them, of whom the prefent reigning king of Boni is the twenty-fecond, who, with the confent of the nobles of Sopiug^ governed the king- dom by means of a viceroy; at preient, however, namely, in 1775, it is again vinder its own king, who married the daughter of the king of Bonu He is a faithful ally of the Company, and follows in all things the advice of the governor of Macajfery although by the bravery of his people, for one Sopinger is better in war than three Bouginefe, he could do much more than the king of Boni. His fon is educated at the court of his maternal grand* father. The part which this kingdom took in the troubles, at the time of Grain Bonta- LANCAs and Aroe Tanete, has before been mentioned. The kingdom of Loeboe^ or Loeboe^ was the moft powerful and moft extenfive of all 0^3 the Digitized by Google [ *3o 1 the ftates of Celebes^ before thofc oi MacaJ^ and Boni attained their fubfequent celebrity. It.flretches at prefent from Felopa^ the ca« pital of the country» to Larompo^ being an extent of about twenty leagues along the weftem ihore of the bay of Boni^ and frona the other fide of the city, over the whole of the fbutheaftern part of Celehesj between Buggue/s-BsLy and the eaftern coaft of the ifland» as far as the Alforefe will fuffer them inland ; to the weft, it is bounded by Wadjo^ and to the north, by Toradja. The land is fertile in paddle i it yields likewife good iron, and much gold is found in the rivers *. Mr. Blok had not obtained any informa- tion refpeéling their ancient hiftory or kings, The firft king of whom mention is made in the records of the Company, is called Grain Haroo; he was fubdued by the arms of the Company, at the fame time with the Macaflers at Bout on. The queen who ruled over the country, * The gold of Celebes is generally got, as on Sumatra^ from the beds of rivers and torrents, and there are many fprings ifTuing from crevices of rocks, that bring fome gold along with the water, which running through a veflcl, bottoinejd with fandy leaves its trcafure behind» T* whei^ Digitized by Google [ ^31 ] ^Rfhcn the account of Mr* Blok was writtca mras called Tamralele» and fometimes Ash A; (he was^ at the fame time» queen of Tanete ; but flie was afterwards deprived of the crown, by the machinations of the king of Bonij on account of her alleged dif-^ ibiute life ; for» notwithflanding (he was aU ready very far advanced in years, (he had the fineft men daily brought to her, for the iatisfaétion of her (hameful licentioufne(s ; while, if (he met with any one, whom (he did not approve, (he had him immediately killed and thrown into the river : a grand- ion of the king of Boni was appointed king in her (lead. This kingdom is likewife in alliance with the Company, and confequently dependent upon them. The kingdom of Tanete^ or jiga NonJIjuy (ignifying a bridge, or ford, lies halfway between Fort Rotterdam and the bay of Sorian. It is bounded to the eaft, by the principality of Mariovi-wavo ; to the north, by Barroe ; to the fouth, by Sageree ; and to the weft, by the fea. It (lood, in for- mer times, on friendly terms with Macajjer ; pfcerwards, upon a war breaking put be- 0^4 tween Digitized by Google I ^3^ ] twccA them, although Tanefe was con» quered, it was ftill reputed independent and a free ally of -Macajef ; but when the king gradually began to extend his power over this country, it was, and juftly, looked upon as a ftate dependent upon that of Macqfer^ ^s it is calted in the reports of the con- ference of Macafler, on the 7th of Sep-. tennber, 1668. At the time of Mr, Speelman, one king Ibrahim reigned here ; who, during the peace of Bonaye^ joined the Company, and was received as one of their allies, after having entered into and fworn to the en- gagements didlated at that time by the Gon^pany, to which his fucceflbrs have ever fince adhered. The prelent queen Tanralele, upon her being made queen of Loêhoe^ and going thither, gave up the government of Tanete to the king of Bcni^ and to the Cottnpany ; birt having, fbme \*ears afterwards, been driven from the throne of Loehoe^ fhe came back, and refumed the adminiftration of her own ftate. The country of Mandhar borders upon the fea, to the weft ; upon Cajelie^ to the north ; Digitized by Google [ *33 ] upon Bionangisj to the fouth; and to th« caft, upon a traft of dcfert mountains, ivhich afford a fccure refuge to the inhabi- tants» when they are attacked by too powerful enemies ; they then abandon to tbem their deferted villages on the feacoaft, and do not return to their habitations till they have been left by the invaders. The government of this country wa$ vefted, in former times, in ten nobles, or eilates, who had all 'entered into engage-» jnents with the Company ; three of then> voluntarily ; the feven others are commonly called princes of the feven rivers^ They for- merly were fubjeft to the Macalfers, and, in token of allegiance, were obliged to icnd a yearly tribute of long (hields; they even 'were forced to receive a governor from Macaffer^ whom they, however, reje^ed, in the year 1658, though they remained otherwife faithful to that country* By the contrad of Bonu the MacafTers refigned all claim to the dominion over ^andhar% after which their princes, or eftates, were feveral times fummoned to enter into treaty with the Company; but (hey all, except one, obftinately refufed to dq Digitized by Google [ ^34 ] do it. On this account^ they were made war againft by the Company, and by the Bouginefe, but were never fubdued, as they always fled to the mountains ; but, in the year 1 674, fearing that they fliould be at- tacked by Radja Palakka, they humbled themfelves before the Company, and figned and fwore to the engagements required. Yet they never much obferved them, efpe- daily not thofe articles which bind them not to navigate any veflels without paffe* from the Company, and which forbid them to admit any veffels into their harbours which are not provided with fuch paffes. Neverthelefs they are deferving of praife and eftcem for the refpeft which they other- wife pay to the Company and to -Bcnf\ ^nd for the rcadinefs which they fhewed in afliitiiig the Company in the laft war. ToaJJaj as pronounced by the Macaflers, or Wadjoj as pronounced by the Bouginefe, is fituated north of the river Chinnanfe Boni, which divides this country from that of Bonij extending to Panekee^ which, though a free ftate, is efteemed a dependency of Wadjoj and which reaches to Cotenga. Be-p l)ind Panekee and Kera^Wadjo ftretches north» Digitized by Google C ^35 ] wards to LarompOj or Loehoe. To the weft it touches upon the borders of Adja Tam-^ parangs or Sedeenring. It is governed by forty princes, or regents, amongft whom women are admitted equally with men. Thefe nobles are all obliged tp remain in JVadjo ; yet, ' when requifite, they are allowed to go, for a (hort time, to their lands, in order to efFeft what may be necef- tary, but as fbon as this is done» they muft immediately return to Wadjo. The forty are divided into three diftin6l bodies, or eftates, each of which has a chief banner, or flag, to which they belong. Out of each of thefe three, again, two chiefs are chofen, one for warlike affairs, who is ftyled patara^ and the other for the civil adminiftration of the government, ftyled ^adenrangj yfho have for their prefident the m^ttoua^ or ele f The Boadjoo people, who are likewife called vrëM laut^ or men of the fea, are a kind of itinerant fifhermen, iaid to come originally from Jobore^ at the eafl entrance of the Straits of MaiaccMf though fome are of cpinion that they muft have come either from Ckina^ or yafmr. They lire chiefly in (audi covered boatS| on che coafts of Bonm^ CeUha^ and the adjacent Digitized by Google t *4ö ] Tlie kings of Ereia and Letia, two finall diftriéls, in the weftern part of Touradja^ are alfo in alliance with the Company. Cajelie adjacent iflands. Others dwell clofe to the fea, on tliofe iflands, their houfes being raifcd on pofts, a little difeince into the fca, always at the mouths of rivers. They arc Ma- homcdans. They have a language of their own, but no written charaAer. Many Boadjoos are fettled on the north- weft coaft of Bornto^ who not only fi(h, but make ialt, and trade in fmall boau along the coaft. They make fait in the following manner ; they .gather feaweeds, burn them, make a ky of a(hes, fiher it, and form a bitter kind of fait in fquare pieces, by boiling it in pans made of the bark of the aiuebomg^ or cabbage-tree ; thefe pieces of fait are carried to market, and pafs as a currency for money. Thofe fettled on the northweft coaft of Borneo ufed to fupply the Englifii at Ai* UmbMngmn with rice, fowls, and other provisions. Manj of them^ are fettled at the mouth of the river of Pafflr^ who employ themfelves chiefly in catching fmall (hrimps, with handnets, which they pufti through the mud ; the ihrimps, after being well wafiied in feawater, are expoied to a hot fun ; they are then beat in a niortar, and made into a kind of pafte, called blatchong^ which has a ft rong fmell, and i% much in requeft all over India. Thefe laft Boadjoos may be called fixed, or ftationary, compared with thofe who live al- ways in their boats, and who, as the monfoon ftiifts on the idands BomM and Celdes^ ftiift their fituation to leeward, fo MS to be always under the lee of the land, for the fake of fine weather. Moft of thoie who rove round Celebes^ though they change their fituation with the monfoon, conüder Macaffer as their home. When Captain Carteret lay at Bmuain^ a ^leet of mor« th^ a hundred iail of their boats anchored there ; Digitized by Google CaJeSe- lies upon the wcftcm (hore of Celebes^ towards the north, htXyfttn Mand<- bar Mamoedje^ and Sinlenfa^ which is the ibuthernmoft place belonging to the govern* ment of Ternate. By the treaty of Bom\ this country was. there; they were from twelve to eighteen, and twenty, ton» burden^ and carried from iixteen to twenty mea : tfiey were all under Dutch colours. The Boadjoo boatk which Cap. taia Forrest faw at the little Patemojfer Iflands, between Benuo and Celehs, were about five or fix tons burden : feve- lal had women and children on board $ and their women are faid to be capable of managing their veflels, even in heavy feas : they lay at anchor, fifhlng for the fwallow, or fea-flug, in feven or eight fathoms water. They fee the fwallow in clear water» and finite it as it lies on the ground, with an inftru* ment, confining of four bearded iron prongs, fixed along an almoft cylindrical ftone» rather fmaller at one end than at the other, about eighteen inches long; an iron fliot is fixea at the end of the (lone, next the point of the prongs. The fwallow is dried in the fmoke, and fent to the China market. They alfo dive for it, the bed being got in deep water. The black is reputed the beft i but there is fome of a Ughter colour, found only in deep water, which is of more value in China than the blacky and fold even for forty doU lars a picol ; the pieces are much larger 'than the general run of the black fwallow, fome of them weighing half a pound. The white is the worft, and is eafily got in fhoal water, and on the dry fand, among coral rocks, at low water : its value is about four or five dollars a picol. The Boadjoos are very ufefiil to the Dutch Eaft-India Company, in carrying intelli* jrcnce ipeedily fix>m place to place* T. VOL. II. R ceded Digitized by Google [ «4* 3 . ftcdcd to the king of TefHOfé ; but the go- vernment At Batavia afröf wards iflued or- ders that it ihould be confidered as bebn^-- ing to the government tsUMacaffer. It ufed formerly to yield much cocoa- nut-oil^ and to furniih as much of this article as was wanted by the Company i but fincc the year »7Jó, it has been fo much ravaged^ firft by the internal dif- fentions between their own nobles^ and af^ ttrwards by the Maivlharefe, that all the cocoanut- trees were felled for the purpofc . of making henüngs\ the land lies now al* öïoft uncultivated and defert, and is fub- je6l, for the grcatefl: part, to the Mandha- refe* The petty kings of this country rcqueft- ed the aid of the Company, feveral years ago, againft the Mandharcle ; upon which fonie veffcls and troops we're fënt thither ; but they behaved fo ill, that the natives Torely repented having ever had recourfe to the Dutch for affiftance. From the report of the chief perfons em- ployed on that occafion, by the govern- ment of Macajfer^ it appears that the couö^ try was then very produftivc in paddee; as likewife Digitized by Google C H3 ] likewife that it yielded much goM, and that in the neighbourhood of Pavigf, which is fituated upon the gulph, or bay, of ^omtnee^ gold is found by digging about four feet under the (iirface of the earth. Toerongan is fituated inland. This ne- grce, or townfhip, and eight others apper- taining to it, bear the denomination of Wauico WoeUy or the lejfer mountains. They were formerly all free, and dependent upon üo one ; afterwards, and pofterior to thd conqueft of Samboupo^ fix of them were ad- mitted, at their earneft requeft, into the al- liance of the Company ; and not long af- ter, the people of l*ouraayo, fituate behind Goach^ at the foot of the mountains, and fome others in that neighbourhood, were, equally, at their own defire, included in the treaty of Bonu In time of war thefe places are of great importance ; but moft of them are at pre- fent united with Boni ; as is the cafe with Boele-boele^ and its appurtenances, which is fituated in the bay of Boni^ at and near the river of the fame name. To the weft, it has JVauwo Woele ; to the fouth, the rivet Caffa ; to the north, the river H'anka ; and R a to Digitized by Google [ H4 ] to the caft, the ihores of the bay. This country is likewife fometimes called Telh-- limpoe I it has three chief negrees, or townfhips^ namely, Boele-boele^ Lamante^ and Radja^ which are all independent of each other. Before, and during, the war of 1667, thefe people were the faithful allies of the Macaflers, who, by the treaty of Boni^ gave up all claim to this country and its inhabit tants. • After that war, it was polTeffed by Radja Palacca, and it was governed by him in behalf of the Company, remaining one of their moft. obedient allies ; but after his death, it continued under the dominion of Bonij whofe kings now look upon it as an appendage of their crown. Thefe are the principal matters relative to the kingdoms and ftates of Celebes^ which I found particularly mentioned in the afore- faid manufcript account. I (hall, in conclufion, fay fbmething of the more diftant countries, which, though they do not peculiarly belong to Celebes^ have much relation to the Company's go- vernment at MacaJJ'er. Bouton is a pretty large ifland, lying eaft of Digitized by Google [ HS ] of Celebes^ of which I fhall fay more, in the account of my voyage from Macajfer to Amboyna. The kings of this ifland have equally ac- ceded to the treaty of Boni^ though they have not conftantly ftuck to it ; for in the year 1752, they fufFered the Company's fhip 'Ruji en Werk (Reft and Work) to be plun- dered by pirates, for which the Boutonners received a fever e correóiion from the Com- pany, in the year 1755 ; they then fought for aid from Boni and Ternate^ but not fuc- ceeding in this, they began, by degrees, to incline towards peace, and fhewed an in- clination *to keep their engagements with the Company, without, however, either re- newing them, or paying the penalty which was impofed upon them by the Company, on account of the perfidioufnefs they had been guilty of. The petty ftates which ^are fituated on the oppofite ifland of Sumbawa^ viz. Dima^ DompOy Tambora^ Sangar, Papekatj and Sumbawa^ are independent of each other, but united together by a defenfive alliance, as far as regards their poffeflions on the iflaad ^umbawa. They are likewife all, R 3 feparately, Digitized by Google £ 246 ] fcparatcly, the allies, a.nd under the prorz tedion, of the Company. Bima lies at the eafl end of Sumifwa^ about forty-five leagues fouth of the fouth- weft point 'of Celebes^ and the paflage over can be efFefted, in a good veitel, the whole year round. It is a free ft^^te, under whoic jurifdiftion are comprehended, the Straits of Sappy ^ the whole of Mangery at the weft point of the ifland of Ende^ and the ifland Goenong-api^ which laft lies a little 'to the north of Bima. The princes of Bimaj DompOy Tambora^ Sangar, and Papékaty have, in general, ob^ ferved their engagements with the Com- pany pretty well j but thofe of Sumbawa • have paid little attention to them, by the inftigatiou of the Macaflers and Wadjorefe, who refbrt in great numbers to thefe iilands, efpecially the latter, who are great mer- chants and adventurous navigators, and with their country-boats they keep the fea in a pioft fyrprizing manner ; they are. even faid to go as far as. the Englifti fettlement at Bencoolen^ on the weft coaft of Sumatra:^ * Fajfir, ♦ Captain Forrest mentions to have feen fifteen prows, from CMts^ at a time, at BeacooUn^ loaded with a mixed cargo Digitized by Google I H7 \ - P^r and Coeti arc two little ftates, or- (eaports, (ituated on the eftft (ide of the ifland Borneo^ and were anciently conquered by the Macaflers *. Their princes ufed formerly to vifit thcfe places alone, or only accompaqigd by their relatives, prohibithig their other fubjefts, or allies, from going thither. But thefe ftates were received into alliance with the Com- pany in the year 1686. . . In 1726, they were taken by the famous fugitive Wadjorefe prince, and pirate, Arob Seenkang, and have ever iince paid an annual tribute to him -f-. of'fpicesy wax, caflia, fandalwood^ dolbrs, and the cloths of Celtbes^ called cambays, T, * F0RRS9T informs us that P^^r was a colony from WaJJ9, •and that the Wadjorefe equally formed fcttlements on Sum^ tawa, and at Rbi^^ in the Straits of Malacca, T. f Pajir feems now to be entirely freed from the influence of the Dutch, the tribute mentioned by the author, being ofienfibly required for the proteftion of the freedom of the port ; and in 1772, when the Englifh Eail-India Company's ihip, Britannia, was there, a feétory was intended to be cfta- bliihed, chiefly for the fail of opium, and Indoflan piecegoods, and the purchafe of the precious commodities, fpices, gold, wax, &c. brought thither by the Buggueflcs; this plan was pnly fruftrated by a commotion taking place in the town, at l^hich the Englifh commander, rather n^dlefsly, took the ^anp^ apd quitted the country. Pa^ was then a place of *4 g'^** Digitized by Google t H9 Ï {reat trade ; with two fkthotns water on the mvddy bar of a riyer that led up to the town, forty-five miles, the tide run- ning a good way up above the town, ; thi$ coniifled of about 300 wooden houfes on the north fide of the river, moft of them inhabited by Bugguef$ merchants: the houfe and woodai fort of the fultan was on the fquth fide, a very little way firom the river. The Britannia lay about fifteen miles off the river'% mouth» in fix lathoms« muddy ground. T. CHAP- Digitized by Google t M9 1 CHAPTER XIL 'ji€Ce difficult to procure enough of it for a fquadron. Rice may be had in any quantity^ fo may fowls and fruit : there are alfo abundance of wild hogs in the woods, which may be purchafed at a low price, as the natives, being mahomedans, never eat them ; and fifh may be caught with the feine. The latitude of Botttam* Hill is j^ 30^ fouth. The tides are very irregular; com* monly it is but once high and once low water in fbur-and« twenty hours, and therrisieldop fix ftet difliaence between vox.. II. 8 important Digitized by Google i 25S ] important pofleffion ever to part with it again, without the moft urgent neceffity* It is governed by two native regents, who bear the title of Crain ; namely, one who rules over Bontaitij and one over TompobaeUy under whom there are feveral galarangs^ or village-chiefs. All thefe, together with the ferjeant who commands at the Company's pagger^ or palifadoed fort, are under the authority of the refident, whofc jurifdidioa likewife extends over Boele Combay which was alfo anciently a feparate kingdom, but was brought under the yoke of the Macaf- fers in later times. It ftretches from the river Kalekongang^ which divides it from Bontainj to Bera^ or rather to the river Banpang, which runs be- tween them ; to the north of it, lie the mountains of Kyndang^ which feparate it from Boni^ or rather from the highlanders of Touraayo ; to the fouth, it is wafhed by the fea. This province is likewife one of the con- quefts of the Company, and its inhabitants are, therefore, their fubjcdls ; and they have, together with thofe of Bontain^ the fame duties to fulfil, and enjoy the fame privi- ' leges. Digitized by VjOOQIC C *S9.] legesi as thofe who dwell in the Company's northern provinces. Two head regents are, in like manner, ^appointed to. rule over this diftriét, namely. Grain Gantarano and Grain Obdjoko* i^owfiyWhohavefeveral^^A^r/in^/ under them. The land is fertile in rice, and abounds in game and extenfive forefts ; but the timber is not adapted to the conftruction of houfes. In the weft monfoon, the road before Boele Comba is dangerous for ihips; fmall veffels, however, can run into the river Kakktmgang^ at high waten At or near the mouth of this river, ftands the Company*s palifadoed fort Carolina^ ii| which the re- iident, w}io is a junior merchant, has his abode* To him is equally eiUrufted the fuperin* tendence over Bera^ which province reaches from the river Bampang^ eaftward, along the feacoaft, to the point of Lajfem (called Lajfoa in our charts), and thence northward to the point of Cadjang ; on the landiide, it borders upon Boe/e Comba^ Tourang^ and Kadjangj belonging to Boele^boek. The whole of this country was ceded to the Company by the treaty of Bonu It is s 2 barren Digitized by Google [ %«0 } ^fmï^M'rtéky^^üiiA ^yields to'ifs üAmbU tants nothing but oc6ee*'^ïfX'tb&i6óttïof tliit^ èrbrdüd ; if tlffiy ^AifpibU^, tlfêy moft have ifecöurfe Vc}*Èiek'€mik, dr Bbüa. It tas thofe 6f iSbf/r èdM'^it, ölMaih Middling good timber för bóiléitt^ *^i«4s ; -the éhfcf build- mg yards of the 'Mlaöaflèrs ^trt fbftitérly at titis ï^laee f • * Pêmeum eêrvè. ' ^ ^They 'bultd (iheir proas, '%Kich' tfaey call 'pëSuJüms, rtrj 'ti|;htt by «loWBiig the fftmks together^ u cbotwn and puftltig the bark of a certain tree between^ which fwcUsf and then fit tinnben to the planks, as at Blmb'iy ; bnt'do^hot rabbet^ as it is'caHed» the pbaks» as - is'done there. In Eufope weljulld r^'cifely ; we let up the 'timbers firft, and fit (he planks to them ailterwanls« They are bigotted to old models and fixtures in fitting thdr vedels : the hrgeft never exceed fifty tons ; tbey have their bow lowered, ^ cut d^wti» ^n^a very awkward itNmncr, fo as to be often under water ; -a bulk head is raifed^a good way abaft the ftem, to keep off the fea* They have a tripod mad, with a high pointed fail ; the tripod maft is made of three ftout bamboos; two ri(tiig from the fities, and one frdm the fbre part of the veilU, iafhed together at the top: the two feet abreaft are bored at the k>wer end acrofs, whh holes about three laches in diameter ;; and thefe holes receive the two ends of a piece of timber, whidh gdes acrofs^ like a main thaft $ on thefe the two abreaft parts of ^the tripod turn»^s uimn a Iiinge : the fore part or the maft is fi^ed forward» tike a roaiflftay, to a kiiee a- midft)ips, with a forelock ; by unlocking the forelock^ the maft is ftruck in a moment. T. Digitized by Google The men of Bera are, io general, goo4 warriorSy both.^t fea and at land ; the richeft among them are merchants ; the other$ employ themfelves in building of prqas^ and in manufaSuring aibrt of coar&^. white»* cloth, from the cottoii which grows in tolera« ble abundance here ; a fmali annual tribute p£ thefe clqtl^s is paid tp the Company, Xhi? country has ten regents, of whom the chitcf is CaAfN Bera. Thefe come w^pe a. xcw W ^<^H Rott^difru to difphfrg^ a 3 CHAP- Digitized by Googk f 2^2 ] CHAPTER XIII. ^oiM of the ^Umd Saleyek^^^Üs ProduBians.— . GavemmenL ^^ CbaraSer of the Inbabttants. — . JJlands of Bonaratte. and Calauwe. — Intri» cacy and Difficulty of the Government of Ma- CASSER. — Contralto or ^reaiy^ of Boni. — Mff- taken Policy of the Company. — Declining State cf tkeir Authority.* — Encroachments and clandeftine Tirade of the ' Englijb. — Difficulty of preventing jhem. — Alarm excited at Macasser ly the Ar^ rival of Captain Carteret, in 1768. — Account of that Affair. — Bad Confequences of the Second never fucceeding to the Govemorjhip. — Emoluments tf the Gpvenunr at Macasser. — 3^e other Ser^ vants of the Company. — The Company^ s Trade. — Private Trade. — Impqffibility of preventing Smugz gling. — Opinions of Governor Mossel on thefe SubjeHs. — Receipts and Charges of this Settlement. — Mtmrrial of Mr. van Pleurei? ö;^ /A^ Trade of the Company. — Eftablijhment g/" Macasser. — Malays. — Their Chief cr Captain. — Trade of the Chine/e to Celebes. — Defcription pf their Junk. — Departure from Macasser. A HE ifland Saleyer lies nearly fouth of the point of Lajfem, full two leagues ; in the ftrait Digitized by Google C a63 ] ilrait between them, are the Budjeroonsy called» by our (eamen, the Boe/eroms, which are three finally uninhabited iflets. There are feveral other iflands which lie round and near Sakyer^ and beloog- to it, of which, however, only two are inhabited^ namely, Bonaratti and Caiaumt^ The Macaflcrs, who had poffeflion of Saiey^Tj made a ceflion of it, by the treaty of Bonij to the king of Ternate ; but it has ünce, in the lapfe .pf time, and by flow de- grees, been wrefted from the Tcrnatcfe, by the Company. Saleyer is very mouutainous and woody, and there are many deer in it3 forefts. . It produces ocbee and batta ; the lail is a ibrt of millet, which conftitutes a chief part oi the food of its inhabitants. Much coarfe, blue and white, flriped, cloth, is made here of the capas^ or cotton^ which it like wife produces ^» . This ^ Captain Four EST» who was paft away» in the Bonetu ketch, on a fmally defert, fandy, ifland, tail of Salej^fr, tra* veiled acrofi the hitter in 1 763, accompanied by the refident. They were carried by men up the very fieep hills» that run along ttke middle of the iiknd from north to feuib^ on bamboo 1 4 chairs» Digitized by Google [ ,64 ] This Hlaii^ is góvtméd tiy fourteen i^ gétitj, whö^refört once a year, in the month of Oöobcr, iö Fort Rófterdam^^ with two hundred ^ftd fifty, 6t three hundred, of their coutitrymeoy to p^form^the cbftonaary duties óf vaiTalage^ and to fet forth füch'difputés as they may have among thcAsfölvés, in order to obtain a dedifion in thern. * Thia people are puritlanimous and fervile, 4tnd, at thé fame time, quarrelfottae and per- verfe ; infomuch^ that, if their (ituètión be not exadly to their own liking, they im- mediately emigrate» with the whole of their family, to another country, A junior merchant is placed here, as re* iident, in behalf of the Company, who has his abode near, or in, a palifadoed faggen or redoubt, called Defence^ which lies, as I was informed, in 5*^ o' fouth latitude. The beforempntioned iflands Bonaratte and Calauwe were given, in fief, (o the old ^AbjA Pal^cca. He made ufe of the chairs, made oft tlic fpot ; and they went over the flat lands oa horfeback. He computes the inhabitants of Sahyer to amount to about fixty thoufand. They drink much of a liquor called /agidre^ drawn from the palm-tree : they burn tallow from the ,ttiIoW-ércé, as in Cbine. T. firft Digitized by Google i 265 J firil for a place of education and inftru£tiea for his dancing girls ; to whichr purpofe hit (bccef&rs in the kingdom of Bm$ likewiib appropriated it ; hence» the& iflands jare moftly inhdnted by Bonginefe, and Uxt very few SaleyeiB are found upon them«. From thefè (hort flcetches and defcriptions of the nations who inhabit the great iiland of Celeiesj may eaiily be deduced the difier-i ent relations,, in which they ftand towards each other, and towards their neighbours^ both with refpeél to their internal policy^ and their foreign connexions; and hence may likewife be feen, how intricate and troublefome the office of governor of M^ f after muft be^ in order to reconcile the Jar^ ring intereft of all thefe numerous petty flates with each other, and with the intereft of his employers. The contrad, or treaty, of Bonif which has been fo often mentioned in the precede ing pages, was the foundation upon which the fuperflrudure of the Company's power and influence in Cekbes was ere£led more than a century ago. Bonij who firft entered int^ this engagement, and whence it has always b^en call^ the contrad of Sanh has^ for that reaibn. Digitized by Google { ««6 ] rcaibn, beoti ever eftêemed the £rft and oldeft ally of the Company. It was, at that time, in danger of being fubdaed by the Macaflers, and not poffefüng fufEcient power to oppofe fo redoubted an enemy, it may, therefore, be ' eafily conceived, that the Bouginefe readily embraced the opportunity of entering into the ftrideft alliance with the Company, whofe power was fo great, and fo renowned throughout India, that whoever were their allies, might diveft themfelves of all fear of being maAered. This was, in fad, apparent in the fcqucl» Macafser was fubdued, and Boni^ being thus freed from the fear of their hereditary ad* verfaries, . encreafed, . more i and -T more, in greatncfs and luftre, more elpeeially during the government of Radja Palacca. It became an adopted political maxim, that Mocafser fliouU be continually kept under i abd this has been, till the prefent time, fo ftriöly adhered to, that Boni has been ren- dered fo great and powerful, that it is at prefent out of all queftion to prefcribe rules oc bounds^ to that kingdom, although the miftake is now moft clearly perceivable : it even happens^ frgna tim^ to tinie^ and every 7«V, Digitized by Google [ «67 3 ye&ft that different portions of territory, «rbich appertain to the Company by right of conqucft, are fufiered» by the liegligencet pr indulgence^ of the governors, to be wreft- fid from them by Bom\ under fbme plaufible pretext or o(her ; while, tbcfc encroach* fneuts are, likewife, afterwards unaccount-» ably ratified by the government at Batavia. The prefent Ibvereign of Bms has brought it fo far, that one of his grandfbns has afcended the throne of the powerful king* dom of Lofboe^ and which the Company have been obliged to wink ^t ; perhaps the danger to their interefb, which lies in this vail encreafe of the power and influence of the Bouginefe monarchy has not been fuffi- ciently infifted upon by their fervants, or it may even be, that it has been c^prefented in a favourable light. Hereby, and by fcveral other circum«> fiances, the authority of the Company has €o much declined in Celebei^ that their pof^ ieflions in the ifland may be confidered a> very inferior in importance to others. .Little regard is now paid to the treaty of Boni^ Upon which every thing hinged heretofore» 7^ ^^g of Bonihvk even prefupoied to pre* Digitized by Google t ^6n } (ér a claim upon tke camponl^r^ cSoft* tQ the fort, becaufe he refided for feme time m it, when he had fled to the Company for proteélion^ againft his fitter Aïl&b Pae^acca. It is not impoffible, that w.he» this princ« is dead, other darker clouds may arifej for this is certain, that ail the native princes art jeaJws of the footing Which the Company have obtained upon thd^ ifland, aind' envy them their poffeflions ; and, if they could ))ut remain uliifed among t-hemiclves, tfeey would not ht flip any opportunity 'of freeing Üiemfelves from their dependence, by- ex^ peiling the Dutch from Celebes^ or at Icaft curtailing their power and influence. - This ft is what conftitiites the moft important, as well as the mofl: diiHcult and delicate, part of the adn)iniftration at Maca/ier^ jiamcly, to infpire the principal nations with jealoufy and diftruft of each other, at the fame time preventing and avoiding, as much as poflible, all adlual hoftilities and interference, in order not to be forced Jo join either one or the other. The Company arc not only menaced on fhis fide, but their hereditary rivals in trad«, the Engiifli, feek like wife to eftftbij^ them- fclycs Digitized by Google :t ««9 ] felvcs b^n^ which they had nearly efiefledi, about the river of Sadraboni^ a few years ago. ^c Bouginefe^ Wadjorefe, and Maudha- refe are much attached to them, and aflift them in the purchafe of ipices from Ceram «nd other iflands. Their new eftablifhment at Baktnbangang gives them opportunities of cönneélion with the merchants and other in- dividuals of the different nations who refbrt to Pqfir and Soeti, or have fettled there, and of drawing them over to their interefts : and if they were to perfevere in their en- deavours, it would be very difficult to pre- vent them from obtaining a footing in Celebes I elpecially upon confidcring what happened with refped: to the little Englilh floop of war, the Swallow^ in 1768, whofc ftay at Macafser I mentioned in my former voyage ; and though the circumftances at- tending it, were contradicted to me now that I was at Macajfer^ it was in fiich a manner, as rather confirmed my belief, in the credibility of Captain Carteret ; if a a iittleiloop of twelve guns, with a fick ajtid cxhaufted crew, was enough to caufe fuch an alarm, what would be the event if a greater Digitized by Google t i7o 1 greater force lurere to appear in ihiCe feas *. If * When Captain Cartsket reached MacsJJer^ from the South Seas, his ihip's company were in a d]rtng conditioDt and it was in order to procure refrdhment for them, and fflidler againft the approaching bad monfoon, that he touched there. His arrival excited the greatefi abrm, and all the (loops and ▼eflfels that were proper for war were fitted out with the utmoft expedition. He^. however» thought to have been an over- znatch for their whole fea^SDrce» had all his people been well; But they were fo reduced, that, a boat having been difpatched on fhore, the united flrength of the remaining men, was not fiificient to weigh the anchor, though a fmall one, in onkr to proceed nearer to the town. As foon as it was known who he was, he was commanded, by a letter from the governor, ^ inilantly to depart from the port, without coming any nearer ^ to the town ; and not to anchor on any part of the coafl, or ^ permit any of his people to land in any place that was under ^ the governor's jurifdiftion ;'* and notwitbftanding all his re- monftrances, and occular demonflration of the emaciated and diftreiled ilate of the crew, the fliort and final anfwer of the deputies of the governor, who brought the letter, was, ^ that ** they had abfolute and indifpenfable orders from their maf- ^ ters, not to fuffer any fhip, of whatever nation, to flay at •f that port, and that thefc orders they mufl implicitly obey,'* To this Captain Carteret replied, that perfons in their fitu* ation had nothing worfe to fear than what they fuffered, and that, therefore, if they did not immediately allow him the liber- ty of the port, to porchafe refreQiments, and procure ihelter, lie would, as foon as the wind would permit, in defiance of all their menaces, and all their force, go and anchor clofe to the town ; that if, at lafl, he ihould find himfelf unable to compel them Digitized by Google If there bc any government among the Company's pofleilions, that requires a chief» V9\io is a man of knowledge, and of found judgment» vigilant and zealous, in difcover* ing every machination ^nddefign that are con* certed in the furrounding kingdoms and pro- vinces, \t\%\}ci^\,oi Macafjir. Asthefe qualities are feldom found in fuch perfbns as are raifed to the head of affairs from the deik, or other employments, which have no affinity with the art of government, it is evident that their adminiftration cannot but be produc- tive of the moft prejudicial confcquences ; and, for my own part, I entertain no doubt that there have been governors fênt thither from Batavia^ who have never become ac- quainted with even the names of the greatefi: them to comply with requifitioas, the reafonablenefs of which could not be controverted, he would run the (hip aground under their walls, and after felling their lires as dearly as they could, bring upon them the difgrace of having reduced a friend and ally, to fo dreadful an extremity* It was not till after he had begun to put his threats in execution, by getting under iail, and proceeding towards the town, that a treaty was en- tered into with him, by which, after much altercation, he was permitted to go to the bay of B^ntasm^ in order to procure the neceflary fupplies of provifions and water, to ere£t an hofpi* tal for his fick, and to find fhelter from the bad monfoon» till ike return of a fit feafon for failing to the weftward. T» part Digitized by Google t ^ J put of the nations with yrhfita tlieyhaié to deal» much k& with the yarious and jntri* caie conne£iious fubfifting between tfaem and the Company. I think it a radical defeél in the manage- ment of the Company's affairs, that fcarcely ever the fecond peribn» in any adminiftration^ fucceeds to the office of chief governor, in the fettlement to which he is attached. He muft incontrovertibly poflefs more local knowledge, than one who only knows the place by name, and who has never aflliled at the deliberations of the local council. Yet the mode which I condemn is fo uni* verfaUy adopted» that it muft even be for- . mifed to, be a maxim laid down by perfons in high authority, the motives of which it is impoÜible to divine. At the fame time, the government of Macajfer not being a very lucrative one, the governors feldom wifh to remain long in it ; and they do not, therefore, take much pains to dive deep into the knowledge of aiïairs, ^ each thinking that it will laft his time. Befidcs what the Company allow the go- vernor out of the profits upon trade, and the territorial Digitized by Google ierritoriai revenues *, there are other privaftd advantages, which help to make out his otherwife fnconiiderable Income* In thd firft places the colledion of the tenth of the- pFoduce of the earth, at which the governor is prefcnt, one year in the horthern> and thé^ other year in the foutherri provinces, Se-» Condly, the yearly letting out to farm thö duties on articles of confumption, for a pre-» ference in which two or three thoufand piafters are generally 'given as a prefent* Thirdly, prefents are likewifc given to the govetnot- when vacancies occur aniong the petty kings of the oppolite iflands by their fuccefibr?, to procure his favour. In the fourth place, gifts are likewife offered by others, upon his coming to the government ; as, for example, by thofe of Bera^ who are obliö-ed to prefent him with a new proa, • The Dutch pompany fupply their eaflern fettlemcnta ipilh the cloths of Indoftan at 3 3 J per cent advance on the prime coft ; whatever they fell for more is the profit of their fervants. Five per cent for commiffion and delcredere, on the (ale of all articles, is divided between the governor and the fecond at Macqfer ; the former has likewife an allowance of /.3000, about 275/. flerling per annum, to make good the ex- pence he is at in entertaining tlic native princes and gran- dees, t. voL.Mi. t made, Digitized by Google [ 274 ] made, in relped to iize and ihape, acccM'd* ing to prefcribed rules» and fuch as» being iènt to Bima^ or Sumbawa^ {bmetimes fetches fifteecn hundred piafters. And others of lefs importance; the mode of obtaining which is not known to me* The other head fervants in the Com- pany's employ» at this place» confifts of the following officers : ,The vice-governor» or fecond» who has the title and rank of fenior merchant. The trade that is carried on here» chiefly relates to his departments He is» at the fame time, commercial bookkeeper, and has an ailiftant» who writes the Company's ledger. As is cuftomary in all the Company's fettlements, the fecond in command is prefident of the council of juftice» and of other boards. All his offices^ however» put together, yield but little. Mr. van Pleuren» who had filled this ftation for eight years, afllired me more than once (and I have no reaibn to doubt what this wortlyr man told me in this re- fpeft, having heard it confirmed by feveral intelligent and uninterefted perfons), that taking one year with another, his income had not exceeded five hundred rixdoUars» or twelve Digitized by Google t ^75 i twelVe hundred gilders^ per annual^ for tiie whole time he had been the recx>nd at Ma- cajjir. This fum mighty indeed, eafily have been quadrupled by unlawful means ; as, by receiving prefents, in the quality of prefidenk of the couricil of juftice ; by giving undue preferences to Chinefe merchants, or others, in the difpoial of the Company's piecegoods ; by winking at monopolies in trade ; and by other evil meanS, which are fufficiently notorious. The commander óf the military is the third in order ; he has the title and rank of ienior merchant. Next follow the Jhebandar^ or mafter of the port, and the fifcal, who are both mer-* chants in rank* The fecret^ry of police and cafliier, the wnkelieTj or purveyor, the refident of Boele^ combe and Bontairti the refident of Maros^ and ibt foldy^bóekhoudefy or paymafter^ are junior merchants in title and in rank, and thefe^ together with the preceding officers^ form the council of polity. The refident on the ifland of Saleyer^ has the rank of bookkeeper, equally with the firft interpreter in the Macafler and Bouginefe T 2 languages; Digitized by Google C 276 1 languages ; the latter was, at that time, thought a very good office ; he has two afiiflant interpreters under him. To thp military belong further, two lieu- tenants and fix eniigns ; of which laft, one is commandant at Bima. The lieutenant of the artillery, is at the fame time, faèriei, or infpeftor, of the forti- fications and buildings, and may, in certain points, be here confidered as engineer. The equipment of, and controul over, the Company's vefTels, which confift of ten o twelve panchallangs * and floops, employed in cruifing along the coaft, in order to pre- vent fmuggling, are veftcd in an infpetlor of equipment, who has the rank of fea- lieutenant* The Company's trade here, confifts chiefly in the lale of pieccgoods, elpecially of coarfe cloths, which are, therefore, prohibit-»* ed to be imported by priyatc traders. At the time of Governor Mossel, that is, in the beginning of his goverment, 1752, he calculated that the yearly amount of the piccegoods fent to Celebes , was one hundred * Country-rcflels, with cnc maft, and a large pointed feil. r, thoufand Digitized by VjOOQIC t ^n 1 thpuiand gilders, upon which the profits were eftimated at forty thouland ; but as the contraband trade with the £ngli(h hais greatly encreafed fince that time, and the orders from Batavia for clothe have not been properly executed, with other addi- tional influencing circumftances, this vent and the confequent profits, are much cur«- tailed. ^*-It is fo impoffible,*' fays Mossel, in his State of India ^* to prevent fmuggling at ** Macaffer^ on account of the many creeks •• and inlets of Celebes^ which afford oppor- ^^ tunities for a contraband trade, that I hold ** it expedient and necefTary, that all private ** trade from the fpice-iflands thither, ceafe ** and be prx)hibited.*' This private trade, however, is continued as heretofore, at leafl to Amboyna and back. This free or private trade, is chiefly car- ried on, from Macajer to Amboyna and Ba^ tavia^ in rice, flavcs, tripangs, and the cloths which are made there; from Amboyna back, ipecie is moftly brought ; and from Batavidy provifions and fuch piecegoods as are not prohibited. T3 The Digitized by Google C 278 ] The little that the Company dfaw from Jdacajfer and its appurtenances^ confifls in ^panwood of Bima ^^ and fbme cadjangf A fl^ip is» at prefent, fcnt thither every year^ which carries a cargo from Batavia^ in the month of March or April, and re* turns to the capital of India, by way of Bim and Sfé^Aawéft * In 17781 jSoyCxso/^f Bima fapanwood was fold in |{ol* land, at /.1 5 per looli. (equal to about 2^. per cwt.);and upon this ardclei the profit is fuppofed to be between fifty and üxiy per cent; which» however^isfcarcely morethia enough to coyer the charges of conveyance to Europe. |a April, 1769, the king of Siam^ whence the Dutch iifed to re- ceive much fapanwood, but the trade to which country they Jbad abandon^ for fome time, fent a letter f o the govpninent at Batavia^ informing it that tranquillity was again refion^ there» and that Siam had recovered from the ravages of the Avanefe; requefting, at the. fame time, that the Company would ree(lab}i(h their faftory, and that they would fiinulh him with f 000 mufquets. To the firft point, an anfwer wu given, that the Cgmpany could not yet accede to his defire; and as to the fecond, they fent him 500 mufquets, ftipubdng that their price ihoiild be paid in fapanwood, at/.} per pkol pf 125/^. or, if need be^ ip wax, at tl^ current rate of thp day. The Siam fapanwood would thus ftand the Compsnyy nvith freight, &c. in 2^ rixdollars per picol, at the higbefti or /. 4* i6. per lootf . and the rate at which the Macaüèr fipia* ^ood was fold^ as abovementioned» was/. 1 5 per xoott. But it does not appear that this article bas^ fince that time, been procured from Siam. T, povernor Digitized by Google [ ^79 ] Governor Mossbl was of opinion that tbis expcncc might be avoided, as the ne*» ceilary fupplies for the fettletnent at Mi- caffer might be fènt by the ihip for Banda^ i^hich calls there for rice, and the Bima lapanwood might be fetched away by the fliip annually returning from Temate ; while the flavesy which the Company require, for their own fervice, from Celebes^ might be difpatched to Batavia by the veflels employed in the private trade, for which a contradfc exifts between the Company and the free merchants, but which is not now availed of; according to which, fixty rixdollars, or one hundred and forty gilders per head, is agreed to be paid by the Conipany, for tjje convey- ance of ilaves to Batavia. That gentleman further calculated the dear receipts of the Company, at the time, at eighty thoufand gilders; in which fum were included the excife and cuflom-duties, with the territorial revenues, which were taken at forty thoufand gilders. I cannot determine whether any dimi- nution has taken place in the latter, fince the year 1752 ; but the forty thoufand gil- ders profits, which were then made by the T 4 Company Digitized by CjOOQIC C 280 5 Company upon the trade in piecegoods^ and upon opium, liquors, and other articles of importation, have undergone great altera- tion, to the difadvantage of the Company j as at prefent Celebes is provided with the two firft articles, in no inconfidcrable quaiir tities, by the contraband trade of the Eng- lifh ; and it is not without reafon^ that ap- prehenfions are entertained that that enter-? prizing nation will endeavour to profecutc it more and more, as they are now almoft the fole matters of the trade in piecegoods from Betfga/j and they feem to aim at efta- blifliing themfelves likewife in the eafterq parts of India, Yet the Company's charges do not decreafe in the fame proportion with their receipts ; it is true^ that by the good management of Mr. van Pleuren, in the concerns committed to his care, the charges have been lowered, thirtyrthree thoufand gilders, in the {pace of eight years j and iu the laft year he reduced them even to three thoufand gilders below the lateft memorial of economy : but what can this avail, if we confider that by the above means, the profits have been reduced by one-half, aad perhaps niore, and that Mqcajfer is yet a Ipfing Digitized by Google [ 2il ] l^ofing eftabllfiiment to the amount of up- ^^ards of eighty thoufand gilders a ye^r ; ^"ivhile it cannot be expeded that all who lucceed Mn van Pleuren in his office^ üiall equal him in integrity, and ihall fa- crifice their own interefl to promote that of their employers *. The memorial drawn up by the above- inentioned Mr. van Pleuren, for the im- provement of the Company's trade in Ce/e- besy and the oppofite iflands, feemed to me to be a judicious and elaborate compofition. The chief point, on which he infifted, wag the prevention of the clandeftirie trade of the Englifh, and the reduólion, under the Company's influence, of Salemparre^ a king- dom whofe prince is attached to the Eng- lifli, and has always refufed to become the glly of the Company ; for he would thereby have obliged himfelf not to fufFer any other pation to refort to his dominions, againft >vhich he moft ftrenuoufly objefted, alleging, that his country was open to all ilrangers, * In 1779, the receipts of this government amounted to /.63,i9o, and the charges to ƒ.163,137, leaving a deficiency pf/*. 100,0531 or about 9,109/. ftcrling, T. who Digitized by Google [ 282 ] who behaved with propriety, and regularly paid him his duties. When the eftabliihment is complete at Macajer^ it (hould amount to eight hundred Europeans * ; but this number is not nearly complete, on account of the great mortality on board of the Company's outward-bound ihips, by which means fewer men arc brought to Batavia than are wanted, and they are confiderably thinned by the un- healthinefs of that place, and*of Bantam^ .whereby not only Macajfer^ but likewifc al- moft all of the Company's pofTe^Iions, are in want of men. BeHdes the Europeans, the Company have, in time of war,, a great number of 'Malays in their fervice. Thefc people» who have emigrated in the fixteenth cen- tury from jfohore^ Patanee^ and other places on the Malay coafts, and have fettled them* felves here, dwell in a fort of town, fepa- rate from the Bouginefe, which is called * In 1776-1777, the cftablifhment at Aftfftf^r, confifted of fi/tyrfeven pcrfons in civil, and three in eccleüaüical, employ- ments, thirteen furgeons and afliftants, twenty-feven belonging to the artillery ; 178 feamen and marines, 502 foldiersi and fevcnty-two mechanics 5 in all 852 Europeans. T, after Digitized by Google [ *83 ] after them Campon MaUyo. They are un^ dcr one captain^ or chief, who is nomi^» nated by the Company. They have always been infeparably allied to the Company, and have rendered them very fignal fervices, both by Tea and land. The Company have given the ifland ^anakeke to their eaptain, for his ufe. He came on board of my (hip, with his brother, in order to accompany Mr. van Pleursn as far as the point oï^ourattea: he appeared to me to be a peculiarly friendly and open* bearted man, and they both poflefled much fenfibility ; for when they took their laft ieave of Mr. van Pleuren, the tears rolled down their cheeks: they told me «fide, that they loft in him their beft friend and benefaélor. Indeed, I heard the fame a few days before he went away from M/- ^^Jf^^9 from many others, both Europeans and Indians, who fincerely lamented his departure, as that gentleman had made Jiimfelf univerfally beloved, by his great af- fability, and his generous difpofition. The Company have, for many years, al- lowed a Chinefe junk to come here, dire6l ^röm China^ every year, to bring thither the goods Digitized by Google goods which are exported from that coun- try, aiid which otherwife would be clan- dcftincly mtroduced into the ifland, by that intriguing nation, whom it would be im* foffiblc to exclude ; and the Company's cuftoms are now benefited by it, as, if I am rightly informed, every junk pays three thouiand Spani(h dollars in duties. The pafles for tholb veflels are granted by the government at Batavia^ where they are ob- tained by the chief of the Chinefe natioii;^ who fends them over to the merchants in Cbinaj and for which it is faid that he re- ceives full eighteen thoufand rixdollars *. As foon as thefe goods are landed, every merchant, for there are feveral of them who come in fuch a junk, expofes his commo- dities for fale, in a large houfe, which is peculiarly adapted for that purpofe. This houfe is the daily refort of a great number of people, particularly Macaflers, Bouginefe, and Wadjorefe, fo that the merchandize im- ported is fpeedily difpofcd of. Thefc merchants take in return tripangSj and Spanifli dollars, both which render thern * About 3,900/. fterling, 71 good Digitized by Google C. ^s- l good profit, ia CAma ; and they are gene- rally able to obtain forty thoiftfand dollars^ as the governor hercj. Mr, van dsr Voort^ aiTured me *• On * Some judgment may be formed of the trade carried oa by the Chinefe to the eailern iflands, from the following' curious and intereÜing Üatement of the outward and return' cargoes of a Chinefe junk, from Cinna to S$oI^f an iiland, or rather an archipelago of iflands, north of the Moluccas^ as j^ven us by the intelligent Captain Forrest ; *• Lift of articles that generally compofe the cargo of a " Chinefe junk, of which two come- annually from Amoy ^ to Sodoo: Cod in Selling price CAd'aa. at «Soo/oob *^ 20OO galangs (falvars of brafs) *^ feven to a picol . . dollars 40 • 70 *^ 100 picols iron, in fmall pieces» ** like Bengal iron ..••.• 4 • 8 '* fugarcandy, a quantity, per '** picol -. • . ^ • . . 7 • 10 " 50 raw filk, ditto . . . . • - 400 • 600 ** 3000 pieces black kowfongs, a^ind " of nankeen» per piece . - . • o| • •* 5000 pieces kompow, white flrong •* linen ........ o| . 1 ^ joo kangans^ twenty-five ux a bun- ^* die, called gandang^y per «« gandang, y , ló '^ 200 quallisj an iron thin pan^ three " feet diameter each . * . • t . 5 • 5Ö0 nefts of quailis, three in a neft . • I • 2^ « One Digitized by Google [ «86 ] On my former vojrage, when I was At Batavia^ I wanted very much to have feen the infide of a Chinefe junk. Thefe are called here wanion, and as there was one lying alongfide of my fhip in the road^ I took the opportunity of gratifying my cu- rio(ity« As ibon as I came on boards with the company that were with me, we were received with great politenefs by the Chi- Coll la Selljog pace jm/m. wt Cèiaa. *' One million pieces chinaware, per «* hundred *....:.•• x • % «« aoo pieces of flowered filkt . • • 6 . lo ^ befidcs tea, cutlery, and other hardware, brafs wire, gongs, *^ beads of all colours, fireworks, &c. &c. (( The returns are in the following articles : Coft in SeUing pme So^foo. at CUM. « Black fwallow, per picol . . dollars ij . 30 ^ white ditto lo • 20 •* wax . # . . xj . as *« tcepyc, or pearl oyftcr-lhelb ... x « . j ** birds* ncfts, per catti ...... 6 • 9 ** Alfo tortoifefhell, agal agal, a feawetd ufed as gum, or *' glue, and many other articles ; fuch as carooang-oil, doye- ** bark, black wood» ratans, fago, various barks for dying, *' caffia, pepper, native camphor, fandalwood, curious ihe^ *' for grottos, pearls, feedpearU and fpices/' Fokrsst's Fcyage t9 New Guinea^ and tbe Moluccas^ page J2$. T. the Digitized by Google ï 287 ) uefè chiefs» and tea, confedionery, and fruits» were fet before us, previous to our taking a view of any thing. This veflel carried three mafts, of which the largeft and middl^moft was nearly of the fame thicknefs as the mainmaft of my fhip the OuwerierJi, (a fhip of one hundred and fifty feet in length), and it was made of one entire piece of timber. The length of the junk, from the exterior of the ftern, to the extreme point of the head, was, ac- cording to my computation, one hundred and forty feet. The hull was fcparated into as many different divifions as there were merchants on board, each having a diftindt place to flow his commodities in. The water was likewifc diflributed in feveral refervoirs, and being flarted in bulk, was drawn up by buckets, through hatches which opened in the deck. The furnace for cooking was by the larboard fide of the mainmafl upon the deck ; for thefe vefTels have but one deck ; and wc faw the viduals drefTed there, in a much cleaner and neater manner, than is praótifed on board of Eu- ropean fhips. At the flcra were feveral tiers Digitized by Google t ^88 j tiers of little cabins, or huts, made of bain<y appointment of the iiipreme Indian government» of the 7th of November, 1774, made governor of the province of Ambtyna^ after having had the chief adminiftration as fecond of the government of Macajfer. The ceremonies which were obfcrved on the occafion of his departure were as fol« lows : at half pafl fix o'clock the governor of Maeaffef^ Mr. P. G. van der Voort, with all the members of the council of pdUty, thofe who were married being ac« companied by their ladies, came to. the houfe of Mr. van Puur en, in order to vox. II. ' IT conduft Digitized by Google / cotiduét bim to the pierhead^ where he was to embiirk, the garrifon being in the mean tifne under arms» and the drums beating k march: after having taken feme refrcflt* mentSy the former walked with Mrs. vav Pleuren, and the latter with -Mrs. VAtt SEE Voort, followed by aU the members of the cx)uncil, from the fort to the pier, where a boat lay ready to convey Mr. Vaw Pleuren, his lad^, his children, and the deputies from the government, on bbard. As üyotk as the boat put off", a iklute of twenty-^one gum was fired from the fort, which was anfwered by the Company's bark, the Mêjfel^ which was likewife de(^ tined to go to Amboyna^ with nineteen, imd by the other veflels, both thofe belonging to the Company, and thofe of private perfbt^s with a leffer number. When Mr. van Pleuren land his com- pany were on bo^rd, a falute of tW«t>ty*ön)R guns was fired by tJie Ouwerkerk^ and ^t the laft gun» the flag was hoifted at the maft«- Jiead.^ We fliortly afterwards weighed an- chor, and fteering between the reef rf Cfreat Lyly and the rock» we ialuted the fort Digitized by Google ft>rt \tritli diie^£iiid-tWeiitj gUdSj ahé Were anfwered with the iaine oumber: in half an hour afterward$» having got out to iba^ thé deputies from the government returned en ihore, and we faluted them with nin* gum* » a CHAP. Digitized by Google [ «9* 1 CHAPTER XIV. Pé^age to Amhyna. — Strait of Takakbkb.— View ^BoNTAiN. — The Ifimd Saleybr. — 2^ BuDOEROONS. — Profojal for fortifyifig tbtw^ — View of the yiands Cabykb — Passakgame — BouTON. — Account of the latter. — Contraff ^ the King witb the Dutch. — Extirpations of Sfice- trees. — Dangerous Pajfage between Bovtok and the ToucAN-BEssis. — Dwaal, or Mistake- hay — View of the IJland Bouro. — Account of it. -^View of the IJland Au^hKVW. — 0/ Ambotn a^ and foe of the IJlands belonging to it. — Strange NegleBwith refpeSto Signal-fiags. — Short Accuut ef the Bay of Amboyna. — Anchorage in it. — Ceremonies upon the Arrival of the new Governor. jTjlT three o'clock, p.m. we were conftraia- ed^ by contrary winds and currentS9 to come to an anchor, clofe to the ifland Galiffong^ where we lay that night. The next day, being the 17th of Fc- bmary, we weighed anchor at daybreak, and fet fail, fleering along the coaft of CilebeSy for the paflage of Tanakeke^ which we reach- ed at ten o'clock^ and about eleven, we had « pafled Digitized by Google t «93 1 paffed the narroweft and moft dangerous part of it« The ipace between this ifland and that of Celebes^ is» of itfeif, large enough, but the paflage is narrowed, by more than one half of the diftance over, by a reef which ftretches out from Tanakeke towards Celebes j and by a iunken rock, which lies about half a league s.w. from the point of San^ drabom. The depth in the paflage is from twelve to ten fathoms* At funfet we had doubled the ibuthweft extremity of Celebes. At funrife, on the following morning, we were abreaft o{ Bontain^ which is remark* able by its very high hills, being the termi- nation of the range of mountains running through Celebes from north to fouth. At the fame time we came in fight of the ifland Sakyer^ and fleered for the point of Lajfoa^ which is the fouthernmofl land of Celebesm In the afternoon we faw the Budgeroons ly- ing eaft of us. Thefe are three fmall iflands, which lie nearly in a line, in the diredion of n.w. and s.E. They almofl entirely block up the paflage between the fouthern part of Celebes^ and the northern part of Saleyer^ the whole u 3 fpacc Digitized by Google [ ^94 ] ipace between which is a|K>ut a league and a half. The northernmoft and fottthem- IBQft qf thcjfe iflets lie» refpe^lvelyi fo dofe to the point of IfOfsoa^ and to the north end pf Sa/eyeff t))at there is no paflage for üïïg$ between them .and the larger ifland^ and pot even for fmall ireflels» but attended with danger; they therefore pafs this ftrait ber twecn the fouthernmoft and middlemoft, or between the latter ancj the qorthcrnmoft, of the Budgeroans. Both thefe parages feerar* ed to me, by the eye^ to be about three? isighths of a league in breadth* The (hores pf the middlemofl: idand are perfeAly clear ^11 round, and fb very bold, that there is no foundings wit^ ^ lin^ qf one ^luqdr^d fi|« thoms. This is one of thp inoft dangerous parts of the navigations for ihips failing to, or from, the Moluccas^ or the fpice-iflands, and there is no avoiding it withput going roun4 to the fouth of Saleyer^ whiph is a much inore hazardous route, pn account of the great number pf (hpals and funken rocks which abound there, and ^re either not laid down, or placed extremely inaccurately, in ^he charts ; though I knovir of a recent in- flance Digitized by Google [ m ] ftance of a Company's fhip, which was obliged to take that route, having been driven to leeward by the currents* For this reafon» I am furprized that the Company have not eredted a few good bat«* teiies, provided with heavy artillery, upon the middleniK)ft of the Budgeroom^ in order to block up this paffage^to foreign veffels, which muft fail clofe under this ifland, and would, therefore, be forced to tun under the guns of the batteries, whilft they would have enough to do to work their failsi and would not be able to return the ure. The objec» tion which might be made to this plan^ namely, that this fpot does not afford any thing for the fubfiilencc of the men who might be placed there, and perhaps not even that moft neceflary of articles, frefh water, is eafily obviated, for the Company's refidencies of Boelecomba and Saleyer^ could conftantly provide thofe who were garri» ibned here, with every thing they wanted j beiides, many men would not be required, for there could be no danger of ever being obliged to rcfift the attack of an enemy up* on the ifland; for it would be impoffible for u 4 a boat Digitized by Google I ^9^ 1 ft boat to land, if there wf^re any battery up^ on iu As (bon as we had come within two cables* length of the roiddlemoft ifland, in order to pais between it and the northern* moft, we were encountered by a ftrong cur-^ rent fetting with the utmoft violence to the weftward, fo that we were obliged to affift the fteering of the (hip by manoeuvring with the fails. The current ran with fuch force, that although we had a ftifF gale nearly aft, and the (hip (eemed to advance upon the water, full five leagues^ we made» in efFeél, little or no progre& towards get- ting through the ftrait. In about half an hour, however» the current decrea(èd, and at eight o'clock, p.m. we had cleared this dangerous pafla^e, and ftp^r^d for the idand of Cafyne, In the mean time, a fmall veifel, which had been difpatched by the refident of Ban^ tain and Boelecomba^ with refre(hment$ for Mr. VAN Pleuren, pamc aloqgfide of us, while we were (Iruggling with the force of the current i there was the greateft danger pf its being ftove to pieces againft the (hip's Digitized by Google I 497 1 fide by the violence of the rippling, and the Indians who were in it, caft off the rope^ and ^xre thereby loft one of our failors, who had been ordered into the boat to aflift in hand* ' ing over the things they brought:. As ibon as the veifel fell aftern fhe fteered for Sa^ ieyer^ and we very foon loft fight pf hen On the follo\(ring morning at funrife, we iaw the ifland Céiyne, bearing x.n.£«' and £• by. N. eight or ten leagues : we were Aill likewife in fight of the coaft of CriSr- i^j, and of the ifland Saleyer. We fteered for the fbuthern point of Cabyne % but wc were prevented by calms from coming a* hreaft of it, till the jtift of February, when we alfo got fight of the iflands Tajfmgane and BotUon^ which form the ftraits of Bouton. Bouttm is a large, middling high, and woody ifland. It is a kingdom of itfelf, to which the neighbouring iflands likewife be- long. The king of Bouton is in alliance with the Conjpany, who pay him a yearly iumofone hundred and fifty rixdoUars in new Dutch coin, upon condition that he (hould not only permit the extirpation by ((he Company of all the clovetrees in this and Digitized by Google and ^ neighbmiring iflaods, bufe dfe aflift then in •cfl^dUng tt« For this purpofe^ tiie Company amiually fend out a (êrjeantt vebo is ftykd' tbt extirpator^ and who goes thiougii ^0 woods in all the iflands, and caofes aH thé clov^tirees which he meets with t» he cut down* The king of Bautott is obliged to provide him guides and interpreters, as likewife with veflelst if he ftand in need of them. But, as for feveral years, he has been very negligent in fulfilling his engage* inentSi and has feveral times, upon various pretences, hindered the extirpator in his fearch after the fpicetrees, the government in India have thought fit to withhold the abovénientioned pecuniarjr allowance this year, in order to try, by that means, whc« ther the fear of lofing this annual revenue (for one hundred and fifty rixdoUars, or three hundred and fixty gilders, * is really a confiderable fum in the treafury of this prince) will not fufiice to make him ftick inore clo^ly to his contraél, and be mote fi^ive in ailifling the Company to deftroy this rich produdion in his country, for the ^nefit of Amboyna aiul B(inda^ Digitized by Google t *99 ] By th^ calm weather whicli accompanted «IS from Cabyne^ till we were without thte ^oucm-bejjis^ which is a diftance that n üommbQly failed over in one day» or in a iday and a half, it was not till the 26th of I^cbruary that we could accompliih this ptit *>f the navigation. We had no violent cur- i^ents, either for or againft us, though we met with fome, but they neither held any TCgulaV courfe, nor did the moon feem to, iiave the leaft influence upon them. The paflage between the ifland Bouttm find the ^^ucan-bt(jis is the fecond dangerous part of the navigation for fliips going to tbe MaIuccüs^ or ^ice-iflands. The channel is, it is true, wider than that of the Budgeraomj fotj by my calculation, it is about four leagues over» from the neareft part of Bouton to the weftcrnmoft of the Toucan-- f^ffffis^ but the danger is of longer duration^ by the numerous little iflands which forca the clufter called the Toucan-bejis^ all of them either connected 'or furrounded by rocky fhoals, over and between which very rapid currents fet ftrongly to the eaft- ward : a great and dangerous flat called the fïótfyzer^ or Horfejhoe^ lies one and a half, or Digitized by Google I 300 J or two leagues ibuth of them, upon which many veffels of the Company have been wrecked. Along thefhore of BoutoUj there is, indeed» no danger to avoid but the land itielf, but ia .the narroweft part of the paflage begins a large bay, which runs into the land, weft and north, into which there is much danger of being drawn by the currents which fct into the bay, if the point oppofite to the Totican-beffis be approached too near in c^Im weather ; and if you have once ^len into the bay, there is no getting out till the weft monfoon fets in again, and it maj even be confidered a fortunate circumftance to fucceed in getting out then : fbme of the Company's fhips that have been drifted iti» have been five or fix months before tlieir repeated attempts to get out have fucceed- ed ; and among other inflances, when Mr. DB Clerk went as governor to Banda^ he was detained a whole year in this vexatious gulph, before he could profecute his voyage; our navigators have, on this account, given it the appropriate name of Dwaal^ot Mifiake-- bay. The two principal pf the Toucan-beffis iflands Digitized by Google ( 301 ] iflands He, by the eye, about half a league N.H.fi. and s.s.w. from each other ; I faw the northernmoft, which is the higheft, at the diftance of nine leagues ; they are iii*- habited by a people who do not fufFer any ftraugers, and efpecially no Europeans^ among them* On the evening of the ift of March, at funiet, we difcovered the ifland Bouro^ beard- ing B.N.E. full thirteen or fourteen leagues off by computation. This ifland is of an oval fhape, the long- eft diameter of which extends eail and wef):# Part of its northern coaft is inhabited by a people who are fubjeds óf the Company» and are governed by their oran cayos^ who have each a dap^ or deputy, under them. The interior parts, which confift of very high mountains, are the haunts of the AI* foreie, or wild mountaineers. The ibuth coaft is now deferted, on account of the con- tinual iiivaiions of the Papuas. The Company have a fmall fortrefs in the bay of Cagefy^ at the northeaA end of the ifland. A bookkeeper, who belongs to the eilablifliment of AmSayM, is the chief there. On Digitized by Google i 30% ] On the 4th of tbc fame month we &W t!ie ifland AmhUiww^ which lies about two leagues fouth from the caft point of Bmtro. It is but thinly inhabited. A corporal and four men were formerly Rationed here to defend the inhabitants from the incurfions of the Papuas * ; but at preient, there are no Europeans upon the ifland. It now be» longs to' the fettlement of Larike upon the ifland of Amboyna^ whereas it formerly was reckoned an appurtenance of Bouro. On the 6th of March we weathered this ifland, and faw Amboyna at a diftance, bear- ing £.^.S. The next day> at funrife, we were in fight of fix iflaads belonging to the govern* mcwtof Ambtynay namely, Amboynay Ceram^ Kelangy Mampa^ Boura^ and Ambkmw ) and^ * In March and April, the Papuas of New Gttkea and thé iHands Sakuatty^ JrpOf and Af^, are apt to affemble in gieat numbers ; and make war on Gi&io^ Ceram, Amèeyna^ Boww^ Amhlauw^ and as far as XuUa^heffy. About the year 1 76$, the Papuas plundered the ifland oiAmblauw^ and coined off naanj of the inhabitants* in 1770, upon an incuidion of a number of the Pagua boats, who failed up the (h^it of PatientUfWlactk divides Bacbian firom GUoh^ the Dutch took 'the Rajah of Sal^watij prifoner, and he was fent inlor tenifliaMm lo ^ Cafe^GêoJOfc. T. an Digitized by Google C 303 1 'iidtir afterwards» we likewtie faw the iflamd Boma ; we fteered for the point of jSimg, which b the weftern etxtreinity «f About three o'clock m the afternoon, we got fight of the -enfign at the fa^ory of LariJbej iituated on the weft coaft t>f EStoe^ which is the northern peninfuk of Amboyna^^ and on approaching Lariie to within half a Irague, we were fiiluted by the fort with thirteen guns, which we anfwered with :Ifence we Êiiled, at the diftance of a cable's length from the fhore, to the point afjiUangy where we faw the fignal flag of recognizance for ray (hip flying, about five o'dock; this was .red aboye^and white be* low ; 'and; on the other hand, tlie (ignal flag which we ihould have hoifted in return, was to haye^been, agreeably to the fealed iliftrudions' given me at Batavia^ one with three horizontal (Iripes, red, white, and r^; but fucha^flag-had been totally ne« gleded to be put on board at Batavta: tl!^. like occurrence iiappened tp^ me before» when ^I : failed to Bengtdj in the year 1769^ ^ wdiat u6l ara fijgnal 'élags of recogni*- zance. Digitized by Google [ 304 J autnce; if one is unprepared to hoift t^ anfwering ügnal ? A ihip's captain calli never himfelf take the neceflary eare to be prepared for them ; for the letter of in^ ftnidions, containing thefe iëcret-fignak^ is put into his hands iealedt with direflions not to open it till in a*^ certain latitude; as in ibis mjiance^ I was not to open mine, tul I had made the iiland Bauro. Having got to about an eighth of a leaguo from the point of-Ahmg^ the pilot ot Am* boyna came on board of us, with a written order from the governor of the province to pilot the ihip into the bay* This bay, which is formed by two large peninfulas, Hitoe and Leytimor, cohneded together, to the eaftward, by a very nar- row ifthmus, called t^e Pq/s of Bagueivakf and whidh conftitute the ifland oi Amboyna^ is, at the entrance, between the points of Alang on Hitoe and Nofampe on Leytmar^ which lie eaft and weft from each other, icarcely two marine leagues over, and it gra- dually narrows as it goes farther in« It is only in ibme parts of it that there is any anchoring-ground, and then it is at na more than one cable's length from th^ ihore. Digitized by Google C 30J ] fliofe^ In thirty and more fathoms water; kiearly the whole of the remainder is with* out foundings, not even with a line of one hundred fathoms : a conftant current like«- w^ife iets into the bay on one fide, and out again on the other { this makes it very dif- ficult to enter, efpecially if you have not a leading wind : if you are becalmed, which is not unfrequently the cafe under the lee of high land, and get into the flream that runs out to fea^ you are foon driven entirely out of the bay by it, and may be in danger ^f being drifted to leeward of the ifland, And thereby of lofing the voyage entirely. The place where the fhips anchor is clofe to the Leytimor fhore, under the guns of Fort Vi^oria^ in twenty-five fathoms ; it is three- , fourths of a 'cable's length from the fhore, and there is no ground a fhip's length farther out. We plied to and fro the whole of the following night, in order to work farther up the bay, the wind being n.e. and thus in our teeth. ^ On the morning of the 8th of March, at daybreak, we found ourfelves about half a league from the point of Alang^ fo that we VOL* II. X had Digitized by LjOOQ IC [ 3of I had advanced but little. The finall veflelsy which^re called corrocorrox and orend^é^s *, ten or twelve of which had come to our ailiftance in the nighty to tow us in, had been of very little fervice ; for the flighteft pufF of wind moved the (hip fafter than they could row or paddle. At noon we were at thfe Lafutf which i$ a point that runs out from Hitoe, one Dutch mile from Fort FiSioria: at two o'clock the deputies from the government at Amboyna^ namely, the fenior merchant, and fecond^ ViLLBNEUvE, and the fifcal. Schilling» accompanied by the lady of the latter^ and the lady of the captain commandant of the * A corrowrro is a vcflcl fitted with outriggerSy having vx high-arched ilem and ftern, like the points of a half-mooo* They are chiefly iifed by the inhabitants of ihtMkbiecAiBxaA»^ and the Dutch have fleets of them at Amhoj^nm^ which they en^* ploy as guardacoflas. They have them from a very fiooallfize» to above ten tons purthen. On the crofs-pieces, which fup- port die outriggers, are often put, fore and aft, planks, on which the people fit and paddle, befides thofe who fit in tlie velfei on each gunoeL In fmooth water they can be paddkd very fafl, as many hands may be employed in different ranks, or rows. They are fleered with two commoodies (broad paddles) and not with a rudder. When they are high oat of the water they ufe oars ; but on the outriggers they always ufe paddles. An orcmhsy we conceive to be a finall Mrrvrfn^ without outnggers. TV militar)'. Digitized by Google [ 307 I inllitaryy Van der Brinke, caniie »?r, which are the names given to the two peninfulas conftituting the ifland of Amboyna. * The work here alluded io^ is 'a defcription and hiftory pi the Eaft*Indies, in Dutch, in five yoluiTies folio, publilbed As Digitized by Google C 3" ] As the fmall veiTels which go from the fort to .the Uliajfersj muft, on account of. this pafsy or ifthmus, take a great circuity or elfe be dragged over it, Mo Padbrugge, the governor of this province, about the year 1683, formed a defign of cutting through the ifthmus entirely ; nature feem- ed, as it were, to have pointed out the pro- priety of doing this, by the branch of a little river, which runs out of Hitoe^ and is called Matta-pajfoj or the eye of the fafs^ by the na- tives. The work was begun, from that place, to the eaftward right acrois the iflhmus, and it would fbon have been crowned with complete fuccefs, had not two idle fancies have been the caufb of its interruption : the firft was, that an idea was darted, that as foon as this cut fhould be eÖfeÖed, the currents would fall through it with fuch violence into the bay of Am^ boyndy that the Kaaiman/hoek^ or Alligators Point, which is a point of land, projeéling far out from Hitoej about the middle of the bay, would be waflied ^way, and that fhips^ would in confequence be no more able to come near the fort ; the other was, that the Anaboynefe, who were employed in the X 4 work, Digitized by Google [ 31* ] work, rcfufed to proceed farther with it, becaufe they made one another believe that in digging blood had been' found to iifue from the earth, which was an infallible fign of fatal confequences i and, however ridicu- lous the latter might be, it was not, by any means, poffible to get them to go on. The former objedion was fcarcely lefs abfurd, as it appears undeniably, that the fea, eaftward pf the pais, is not at all more elevated than the water in the bay of Amboyna^ as the in*» telligent engineer Von Wagner, who has accurately furveyed both fhores, has found, and affured me* There was thus not the leaft probability that the currents could have fallen through this opening, and have had the evil efFe.6l which was fo groundlefsly apprehended. This work of public utility, and of particular advantage to the Company, was therefore flopped, and no one has fince thought of undertaking it anew ; although Mr. VON Waoner has even told me, that he has frequently demonftrated how eafy the cut could be completed, there being now no more than about ninety roods of land tp cut through, yet always to no purpofe, XJip arm pf the fea, which is now in- glude^ Digitized by Google C 3Ï3 3 eluded between thefè two peïiinfqlas^ bears the appellation of the Bay qJ Amboyna. I do not believe that there i$ any harbour in the world which is naturally fo ftrong as this. From the point of Alang to tbc Pafs of Éaguewala it is about five leagues, but from the point o( NouJJhnivel to the fame fpot, icarccly three and a half league?^ deep : the breadth v is unequal ; it is narroweft be- tween the point of the Laba and the op- pofite Galghoek or Gallows Point, where it is about one IDutch mile over, and between the Kaaimans^ or Alligators Point, and that which projeös eaft of the land of little Hativa^ where, at low water,. by means of a rocky (hoal on the Leytimor^ and a fan4 on the Hitoe^ fide, the pafiage is fo con^ traded, that adventurous perfons h^ve, more than once, crofTcd it on horfeback, although the water between them is full eighty fa* thorns deep. The diredion of the bay, according to that in which the two peninfulas lie, which bend round and meet each other at the pafii, js N.E. and s.w. TJ^e poinj of Alang^ or the wf ft point. Digitized by Google I 314 ] on Hköe, and that of Nouffanwel^ comiptly called Nofampi by mxxv feamen, or the eafl point of the bay, lie about two lesjes E.is# and w.|N. from each other. From the point of Alang^ or paft LUliboai, to the point of the Laha^ there is no an« cboring-ground at all, except clc^ to the rocks which border the whole kngth of the ihore, and upon which, eipectally ia the eaft monibon, a tremendous l^gh (urf continually breaks ; but juft paft the point of the Laba^ there is an inlet, or bay (Laba in the Amboynefe language fignifying a bay), in which a fleet g( five-and-twenty ihips can anchor in fafety, particularly in the weft monibon,. in twenty-five and thirty fathoms, good fand ground ; the anchorage is about a piftolfliot from the (hore, where, in cafe of neceffity, (hips may likewifb be careened. This was the place where the Dutch fleet, under command of their admiral Stephen van der Hagen, lay at anchor, when, the day afterwards, they crofted the bay, and took the Portuguefe fort. From this inlet to the Kaaimans Point, there is again no anchorage, except upon the Digitized by Google [ 3'J I edge of the beforementioned fand, yet, in caic of need, one might anchor near the pals, clofe to the Matta-pafjo^ On the oppofite Ihore, along heytimw^ there is, withoutfide the bay, about half a league beyond the point of Noujfanmely a reef of about one kague in length, on which one may likewife caft anchor^ in cafes of neceflity, when apprehenfións arc entertained of being driven paft the bay by the currents, in twenty, eighteen, and fif- teen fathoms, fand ground/ This anchoring- place, which is of great importance to the (hips bound to Ambojnay is not laid down in the Company's charts of thefe parts, perhaps intentionally ; but it is inferted in that which is found in VALENf yn's worik : I alfo faw it pointed out in the laft map which has been made of the bay of Am^ bcyna. When I was at Amboyna^ in the month of April, 1775, I faw a Chinefe veffel lying at anchor \ipon it. Between the reef, however, and the land which forms the point of Noujfanhelj the depth is again fathomlefs, and the (hore is bold and rocky. Paft this point, on the infide of Leyii-^ mory there is a bend, the deepeft part of which Digitized by Google C 316 3 which afrDr45 good anchorage, in the eail monfbon^ but it is only quite cloie to the fhore. This is called the Portuguefc-bay, but I am ignorant why this name has been given to it Thence, t^ll paft the Galgboekj or G^/- lows Point, there is no tolerable anchorage ; but you then come to the Vrymam% or Jr^ merchants^ road, which is juft paft that point, whence a fmall rocky reef projeds out into the channel ; you muft be particularly care^ ful not to anchor too near to the point, for worms are fo abundant at and near it, that in lefs than a month's time, not only the flieathing, but likewife the planks of the veffers bpttoiB, are completely eat through. Upon this follows the road of Fort Nev Vi&oriay but here the anchoring-ground is equally clofe in fhore ; for direöly before the fort, and at one and a half cable's length pfF, there is no bottom with a line of feventy fathoms. From this place to the point of little Hatha the ftiore is guarded by an uninter- rupted range of funken rocks, which pre- vent all approach, and frotp th^fe to the pafs^ Digitized by Google [ 3ï7 1 pais, there is likewife no rifing bottom, ex- cept clofe to the ihore. In the middle of the bay there are no foundings with a line of eighty, or one hundred fathoms. The nature of this bay conftitutes the flrength of the ifland. It is only in a few parts of it that there is any anchorage^ and then always quite clofe to the (hore ; and it would be a difficult matter for an enemy^s fleet to enter it, and much more fo to block it up. The Laba is the only place where Ihips can affemble, and this may be made fo ftrong that all fear of its being availed of might be difmilfed ; this has, indeed, now been determined upon, as I ihall have occa- iion to notice farther on. No rocks, or fands, are to be met with in ^m?, it is more generally ufed for rafters, and beams in houfes, and fpr all kinds of carpentering. The white lingoa has a larger and longer leaf, the wood is of a much paler hue, and of a more open and coarfer texture. The third fort, or iXonciingoa^ has a finaller and rounder leaf, and is a much harder and clofer- grained wood than either of the others ; it is feldom met with but io the high mountains of Oram i it is a very heavy wood, y 3 »n4 Digitized by Google [ p6 3 duced in Ceram ; as is the Salmoni-wood *, which is yet more beautiful, but is too Icarce to be ufed for building, the timber for wiiich is moftly brought from jfava^ though the yaft-v/ood f is likewife propa- gated here, with tolerable fuccefs ; but a fuf; ücient quantity has not yet been reared, to fupercede the neceffity of a fupply of timber from Jiva, There are many other fpecies of wood^ befides the above, the half of which I am and fij.ks Kke a ftone in water. The ii/tgoa-wood is fuf- ccpt blc of the higheft poUfli, and its beautiful appearance, wht n raanufadured, is defcribcd by Valentyn in the moll glowing colours.. T, * Tbt ^nlmoni^ or Sakmoelt-ivtt^ as Valentyn calls it, afFv^'"ds :i no't b trail til ill wood ; it refe mbles walnut- tree- wood in cjiour, but is veined and variegated in a much handfomer rnaiiner; the p hnks obtained from it are feldom more than ore foo* and a half in breadth, though fometimes fome are got of two, ai.d two ati * a ha-f, feet bioad, and four feet long. It is alfo cal'ed baHard-ebony. T, f The jatt, or teak-tree, as it is called in the weftern parts of 1l'.1s •, I.as its tirll name, from a Javanefe word, fio- nifv'nc duuih^f. I. is the piide of the eafterii wood?, and one of the i.-gh:U and largeft trees of the {f.Jt^, There are two fort«, wliici', by the nruber they yield, are diftinguiflied by tbc names of male and female ; the former is the darkeft in hue, and very veiny ; it is eafier to be wrought than the latter, which is paler and lefs veiny. T. ' ' ■ * ' entirely Digitized by Google [ 3^7 } qntirely unacquainted with ; they are amply defcribed by Valentyn.* ♦ " A conception may be formed," fays Valentyn, "of ** the great plenty of timber-trees of ail kinds at Amboyna^ for ^ the condrudion of ihips and houfes, and for the finefl and ** moft coftly articles of furniture, from the circumftance that *' Mr. RuMP^ius (author of the flirrw Amboincnjis) had *' procured ajittle cabinet to be made, which was inlaid with ** nearly four hundred forts of only the choiceft and hand- *' fomeft woods, and which, together with other curiofities, •* that gentlemen fciit as a prefent, in the year 1682, to the *' great Duke ofTufcany, Cosmo the Third. Jf then there ** are fo many forts of fine and choice woods fit for ve- *' neering, how many mud not the pommon forts be !" He particul:\rly defcribes a great numljer, among which are fc- vcral different fpecies of the ebony -tree ; the irpn-tree ; the cafuarina ; the wild clove-tree ; the Jamama tree, which is a baftard fort of tjak ; the fffla/-tree, which yields a timber that io almoft impcrifliable ; the Chinefc ufe it for anchors and rud- ders ; it withftands all weathers, and yields but flowly to the powerful agency of fire ; it is, however, on account of its hardnefs, very difficult to be wrought: the cajoelanguit-ixtc^ whic4i has received the-proud title of the tree of heaven, or of the firmament^ as it feems to lift its lofty and fpreading furamit to the clouds J &c. At the conclufion of his account of the trees of Jmhoyna^ he aflTures the reader, that the moft laborious exertion of a long life would not fuffice to become acquainted with all the trees which grow on tfie lofty and woody moun- tains, the extenlive and impenetrable forefts, of Jmhoytia^ and that the vaft number which he has noticed, feventy-two of which he gives reprefentations of, are but a fmali portion of the whole. T. Y4 Qi Digitized by Google C 3«8 ] Of the produös of the countryt confidered ^s articles of trade, the firft rank is occu- pied by its ftaple commodity, cloves. The tj-^e * on which they grow, is too well, and * fpfry^ffyllus» The clorc is produced on ^ very handfome tree, fomewhat refembUng a l^gc pear-tree ; its ftcm is ftratght| and at the di(hince of five feet from the ground its branchesHsegin $ the bark is thin and fmootb, and adheres f lofely to the wood ; the wood is heavy and h^rd ; the leaves Hand two and two oppofite, they ^re about a handbreadth in length, an4 two inches broad, pointed, ribbed ;md reddilh on fhe upper, but fmpoth find of a bright green colour on the pnder fide, they have a very aromatic fmcll when bruifed be- tween the fingers. When a tree is nine years old, and has ])pea veil attended to, it begins to yield cloves ; they appear in the beginning of the rainy feafon ; they are then little dark* green )ongi(h buds, and become perfe^ cloves in fhape in the month of Augiift, or September ; they then turn yellow» |ind afterwards red, which is the time for gathering them; if they ^re fuffered to remain three or fbqr weeks longer, they fwell and become what are called mother*cloves, which ^ are proper for propagation, or for candying, but not for diy- ing as a fpice. The cloves grow on feparate flalks, bnt in bunches of three or more together. Valektyn 4efcrihes four forts : that which he calls the male plove, is the fort vfed for drying ; the female producer cloves «f a pale colour, which are the belt for extracting of oil| the king's clove is t, very fcarce fpecieS| bearing larger and double cloves; he mentions one tree of this kind that üoM in the ifland Ab- f^/a«, and a few others that were difcovered in 1668, and i6t2, in liativf and in Hitof : the foyr^h fprf are called pee? clovej Digitized by Google [ 3^9 ] and too minutely dcfcribcd by Valëntyk, than that I ihoul4 be required to do it here. Two large crops of cloves never fuccced each other ; if the crop be one year very large, that of the next year will be fmall ; the firft generally takes place in uncomcnoa dry feafons ; and epidemical fevers are theli very prevalent. When the cloves are almoft ripe, they muft be foon gathered, or they (hoot out ia fi few days, into mother- cloves. The cloves which are dried over the fire, inftead of ia the fun, are not good ; thefe may be dif- tinguifhed by their colour, being more in-^ dining to black, ^nd th^t they bend be« CI0VCS4 they arc very fmall, but likrwife very rare : the clove produced upon the wild clove«tree, has no kind of fpicyne^ At the time of gathering the cloves, the groiuid is carefully fwept under the trees, that none may be loft; they are gencf rally pulled off by long hooks. The ufual time of the clove- crop is in 0<5tober, and it lafts till Pecember. The oil of ploves is well known in the Materia Medica ; an hundreil W^ght of cloves ufcd to be employed ih former tirties to pro- pure a quart of oil, but that quantity is now drawn from forty pounds, though it is in confequence not Co powerful | the extraction of the oil is ftriélly prohibited by the Dutch Qompany to all individu|ls. T. twee» Digitized by Google tsv.een the fingers ; while thofc which are properly dried, are, on the contrary, not flexible, but brittle, and fnap afunder upon being filliped with the .finger ; they, are alio pf a reddifh cail. The crop of cloves depends niuch upon the temperature of the weather, in the months of June and September, An after- crop is fomctimes made, but the time is un- certain, and it does not often happen. Although this fpice is not an indigenous produ6tion of Amboyna^ but a native of the Molucca iflands proper,whence it was brought hither fome centuries ago *, it profpers ex- ceedingly ♦ A fhort tinne before the conjing of the Portugucfc in Amhfyna^ the Ccrammcrs of QambclU fecretly brought fome ipotj[>er-clove$ in hollow bamboos from Macbian^ whence they jurcrc propagated all over Ceram^ Amboyna^ and the neigh- bourlng iflands, and in the fpacc of fifty or fixty years the whole of Hoeivamsehil was covered with them. This was told to the Piitch when they fir ft came to CamLcUoy and foin« of the trees firfl planted were fliewn to them, behind the hill of Ma^Ii; the n^cmory of it is likewifc preferved in the tra- ditionary fongs of the Amboyncfe. The braye and enter^ prizing inhabitants of Carnl'sUoy were rewarded for the opcn- nefs with ,which they (licwed tho Dutch their treafures, by the deftruif^ion of all their clove-trees, and the deprivation of the fruits of their indufiry, and exertion ; the in.placable enmity Digitized by Google f 33Ï 3 peedingly well here, and efpecially upon thf ^flands of Honimoa^ Oma^ and Noujfa^laut^ cpmmonly called the Uliajfers, which» to- gether with Amboynay are the only fpots yvhere the Company allow it to be culti- vated *, and they conftantly caufe it to be deftroyed in every other place within their cnmUy .which they inconfcquence entertained for the Dutch^ and their repeated attacks upon the forts, their enemies efta- bliihed in their country, have been ftigmatized by the Dutch writers, as a bafe apd wicked fpirit of difob^diencei and aii u^uji and cruel luft of blood and warfare ; ** fo that,*' fays Valehtyn, " it would have been better, if, infieadof extir- ** pating their trees alone,- we had, at the fame time, exter* ^.* minated this revengeful and fanguinary nation." T^ * I believe too, that whatever pains foreign nations may take to propagate thefe fpice-trees in other places, they will never fucceed, except in the neighbourhood of the Moluccas, unlefs in fimilar countries, fituated in the fame latitudes» which, like thcfe, heated by fubterraneous fires, afford, by the ;i£^Ion of this natural laboratory, fufficient heat to the fpice* trees, to give their fruit ^hcir ftrong pqngent and aromatic fla- your. 5. The cloye-tree has, however, been fuccefsfiilly Intro* duced in the Wefl-India idands, and though the quan- tities hitherto brought from them, have been very infijgnifi- ^ant, yet their conflant increafc fuffices to fhew, that the culture is in an improving (late; in 1797, S^oi^s. were im- ported to London from Martinico^ and in the prefent year. ^OQJhs. from that ifland, and %y^^Ms, from St, Kitts * T. reach. Digitized by Google f 33* ] reach, efpeclally on little Ceramy or Hvewa^ moehil ♦ ; exclufive of the extirpations which take place, from time to time, in the fpice* iflands themielves, in order to moderate the great abundance of the article, with which their warehoufes overflow, both at Batavia and in Holland. Thus, the fupreme Indian government ordered by their letter, of the 26th of De- cember, 1769, that the number of clove* trees ihould not be allowed to exceed five hundred thousand -f-, and it was further or- dered, in the year 1773, ''^^^ ^^'7 thoufand more fhould be deftroyed, fb that at pre-.^ fent (1775), after three extirpations, the number of plove-^trees, as near as could ^ H ^ewö t mthil is a peninfula joined to Ca-ait by an iftliinas, called the Pafs of T^n(tenó\ it was not only very fatile ia f:love-trees, but produced likewife large quantities of natmeg* frees ; of thefe laft, what was called the gret^t nutmeg-irte firefiy «ras deftroyed iu 1667, and in another place 5,300 nutmeg- frees. T* f One hundred and twcnty»five clove-trees are allowed to |i plantation, or dêujjon, as it is called by the Amboyneie, and pf thefe there are 4000^ which makes th(; oun^ber of 5pO|000 frees. jT, be Digitized by Google [ 333 ] be afcertainedt amounts to 5i3,a68; wher«« of 320^491 fniit^bearing trees 1049866 half- grown 8719 1 1 young plants 513,268 befides 22,310 tatanamangs^ which are ttt^ that are not- comprehended in the clove« plantations, but fbind interfperfed here and there, near the houfes. Every Amboy-» nefc plants fuch a clove-tree when a child is born to him, in order, by a rough caU culation^to know their age* Although they do not oppofc the extirpation of the clove- trees in the plantations, when the Company think it fit, yet to touch their tatanamangt would fpeedily be the ëaufe of a general in^ iurreéHon among them l this was manifeft on the occafion of one of the kf): extirpations^ when the extirpators, ignorantly, at leafl as they pretended, cut down fome tatanamangs. The whole country was immediately up > and had not the then governor. Van de» V ■■' ^ fpeedily provided againft it, they would have deftroyed all the other clove- trees, fet fir< to their hiri^tations, and flying X9 Digitized by Google t 534 ] tb the mountains, they would thus Have withdrawn themfelves From their ol^ediencc to the Cortipany. I have been affured that a clove-tree will continue to bear fruit for the fpace of eighty years*. Befides the clove, liütmcg-trccS likewife gi-ow here with tolerable luxuriance; but they are all deftroyed, by the orders of thé government, whenever they are found -f. In ♦ Valentyn mentions a clove-tree upon BoeivamoAHi that was known to be one hundred and thirty years old, and to have yielded in one feafon two bhars, or i,xoo /5. of cloves. T. f As we had no opportunity, in the Ihort account giren of the ifiands of Banda m the firft volume» to defcribe the nutmeg- tree, it may be well to intfoduce an sfccount of it here. Thé tnyriftica mofcbata^ or true nutmeg» is a handfome and fpreading tree; the bark is fmooth» and of a brownifli-grey colour; the leaves are cliptical, pointed, obliquely nerved, on the upper fide «f a bright green, on the under, whitifli, and'ftand alternately upon footftalks ; they afford a mofl grateful aromatic fcent when bruifed. If a branch of the tree be broken offy a fap runs out of it, which is of great prejudice to the tree; and it never thrives Well afterwards. It does not bear fruit till its eighth or ninth year. When it begins to produce frutt, little yeliowifli buds make their appearance, out of which fmall white flowers are blown, hanging two or three together, upon flender peduo* élcs; in the center of the flower is an oblong " rcddifli knoi>j from which the fruit is prodttced, ^hou^ |K> more than one ' blofl# Digitized by Google [ 335 J lil proportloh, as the clove-trees ^^efS more and rnore eradicated, the goVernmenl at bloirom out of three commonly rJpens to a nutmeg. The fruit is eight or n?nc months arriving at rtiatiirity ; but bloflbmi and ripe fruit are found at the farte time upon the fame trec^ and the nutmegs are generally gathered three times in a year. The fruit appears liJte a fmall peach, both in fliape and in colour, only it is pointed towards the ftalk ; when it is ripc^ the oute» coat, which is almoft half an inch thick, opens and fliews the nutmeg, in its black and (liining fliell, encircled by a network óf fcarlet mace ; the outer coat is generally whitiflij a little hard, and is very good preferved in fugar, or flewed j you then come to the mace, which is of a fine bright red co* lour, and under it a black fhell, about -as thick as that of a filbert, but very hard; it is opened by being firft dried fuccef*» fivdy in üvc different petaks, or drying- places, made of fplit bamboos, upon which the nutmegs are laid, and placed over a flow fire ; in eachof tbcfe petaks they remain a week, till the nutmegs are heard to fhake within the fliell, which is then cafily broken ; the nutmegs are then forted and delivered to the Company ; each fort is then feparatcly put in bafkets, and foaked; three times in tubs with fea- water, much hnpregnated with lime ; they are then put intodiflinélclofets, where they are left for fix weeksf * to fweat; this is done that the lime, by clofing the pores of the nuts, may prevent their ilrength from 'evaporating, and like*- wife becaufe fuch a prepared nutmeg is not fit for propagation. Some trees afford longer, and fome rounder, nutmegs, but which are of the fame quality; the long ones are called male nutmegs; but there are like wife wild male nutmegs, which have little flavour, and are not valued. The Bandanefe enu- merate feveral forts of nutmegs, but they appear only varieties in the fruit of the fame tree. The myrifiicafatua, or wild nut- meg» grows in all the Eaflern iflands ; it feems to have been this Digitized by Google t n6 1 Ut Baiavid began to think on the méaiiS o/ giving the Amboynefè an equivalent for the diminution of that produétion, as the crop of cloves brought but little money into circulation^ in proportion to the number of inhabitants^ of which I ihall {zj more herc- &ftcn For that purpofe» his excellency, go- vernor Mossel^ propofèd^ in his Secret Conp derations on the State of India j offered to the gentlemen in authority at home^ under the head oï Amboyna^ to encourage the cultiva- tion of pepper and indigo there, as much as poflible, in order to furliifh a better means of fubfiftence to the natives ; but the little in^ clination which the rulers of Ainboynd have Ihewn to comply with this propofal, and the little attention they have beftowed upon the fubjedt, Of, as they allege in their oWn cx- culpation^ the indolence of the Amboynefe^ have almoft wholly fruftrated the attempts l¥hich have been made in this line^ The this fort that Ï'orreöt obtained at Dory harbour iü iViw Qvi' hea^ and planted on the ifland of Sunwect ; it is produced likewife in the Weft^Jndies^ at the ifland of Tobago* Art tfTential oil is extraéled both from nutmegs and from mace ; it is reckoned that three tatti of Banda^ making about feventeea {>ounds and a quarter, Amfterdam wei^^ht, yield about a cpxd cfoil. ti Digitized by Google [ 337 ] > The indigo that is produced upon Leyti- mor is thought to be much better than that of Buro ; a pound of the former ftands th.e company in fix gilders*; but it is very lit- tle inferior in point of brilliancy of tint to Prufllan blue. The government then adopted the mode of lakh, 7^ it by contra6J:, promifing to pay forty-eight ftivcrs for the firft, thirty-fix for the fecond, and twenty-four for the third or worft fort f ; but neither did this fucceed, \^hile its failure is equally attributed to the lazinefs of the natives. The following quantities were delivered to the company, in 1748, and 1749, accord- ing to the report of Governor Roozeboom ; from Hi/a. from Bonro. 1748. 185/^. 281/^. 1749 . zoo IL ' 2251/^. 385 lb. s^(>ii^^ In all 8911/^. » About I is. ftcrling. T. f About 4;. 4^. for the firft, lu 34/. for the ^cond, and t/. %d. for the third fort. T. TOL, lïf * Digitized by Google [ 338 ] The cultivation of pepper in Bouro fuc- ceeded no better, though the pepper-vine, it is faid, grows very well there, and produces a large corn ; but which is not of fo hard a fubftance, nor fo ftrong a flavour, as that of Bantam, or the Malabar coaft. I am much fur prized that the government has not hitherto taken any pains to profecutc the cultivation of the fugar-canc in the iflands of Amboyna^ for it grews as luxuri- antly, and as full of fap here, as in "Java, or any where elfe ; which I know, by having frequently feen and examined the canes which have been planted here and there by the flaves for their own ufe. This would not only alleviate the poverty of the Am- boynefe, as their clove-trees are deftroyed from year to year, but it would, on the other hand, be no lefs profitable to the Com- pany, as the article would be conveyed hence, without any additional expence, by the clove-fliips, on board of which it could be (lowed as a lower tier, and fcf ve for ballaft. Perhaps, however, this has never been put in practice, in order that the competition of the fugars from Amboyna might not be of prejudice to the fugar-works oi Jaccatra^ in which Digitized by Google t S39 3 which perhaps the gentlemen irt the direc- tion of affairs are interefted* Coffee likewife grows here in fufficient luxuriance to encourage the Amboynefe ' in the cuhivation of it ; and the quaUty of it is> by no means, inferior to that of yavaé z 1 CHAP. Digitized by Google [ 340 ] CHAPTER III. Deftription of the Sago-treej and of the Manner in which the Sago is prepared. — The Ela. — Sago- bread. — Gabbe-gabba. — Atap.^^Sago-woods of the Company. — Fruits. — ^he Sagwire-tree^ and the Liquor drawn from it. — Animals. — Deer. — Wili Hogs. — Babi-rouja, or Hog-deer. — Fijbes. — ff^on- derful Stories of the Amboynefe. — A Fifh called Jacob Evertfen. — Reptiles. — Snakes. — Domejlic Animals. X HOUGH the clove-tree yields the rich- eft produdion of this ifland, the Sago-tTtc is of much greater utility to the Amboynefe. This produ6lion, which a wife Providengc has beftowed as an univerfal article of food upon the inhabitants of Amboynaj Ceram, and tha furrounding iflands eaft of Celebes, (for on Celebes it grows not *, though it is again found in Borneo^ where on the con- trary, rice, as a primary article of food, is wanting) propagates itfclf by offsets, or ihoots, which for a long time appear only ^ Other travellers inform u$ that the fago likewife grows on CeUhes^ efpecially, and in much Abundance, at the hottoro like Digitized by Google [ 341 ] like bufhes *, and which all proceed from the roots, or from the bottom of the trunk of a full-grown tree. I fliallnot fet down all that appeared to me worthy of obfervation, on the fubjeft of this tree, as Valentyn, in his defcription of the trees and plants of Amboyna^ is ample in his account of it ; but I (hall only make mention of what he has not noticed. The fteni, when it begins to form itfelf out of the bufli, fhoots up, as ftraight as an arrow, to the height of between forty and (ixty feet, without any lateral branches, juft like the firi, and cocoa-nut-trees, to which genus it likewife belongs, forming a hand- fome crown at the top, which affords an agreeable (hade. A grove of thefe trees, with their ereél- ed ftems, which, when arrived at maturity, confift of nothing but a fpongy and mealy fubftance, furrounded by a hard bark, of about half an 'inch thick, and their beautiful leafy crowns, have a very charming appear- ance, and form a pleafant and cool retreat. * Yet thefe bufhes are about fifteen or fixtccn feet in height, r. z 3 This Digitized by Google [ 342 ] This white, fpongy, and mealy (ubftance is the fago, which ferves the natives in lieu of bread *. As the manner in which I have fcen the fago poekeled^ or made into meaU differs in fome refpcfls from that which Valentyk relates, I (hall here fhortly particularize it. A ' tree is firft made choice of, the pith of which it is certain has attained its full maturity, and this is perceived by its be- ginning to be of a yellowifh- white caft juft under the foliage -f. The ftem is then cut through as clofe to the ground as polSible, ill order to lofe the lei3 of the farinaceous contents* * The fago.-tree does not produce any fruit, till it has )oft its ftrengtb, and is about to dici when the branches like- wife appear covered with meal ; it then produces at the top» ^ bunch of fmall fruit» like pigeon's eggs, which are firft green, and afterwards yellow ; the kernel is very aftringent. It delight^ in wet and morafTy fituations, and will not grow except in low grounds. It does not live above thirty years. T. f They likewife fometinnes try it by chopping a hole in the treei out of which they take fome of the pith to examine whe- ther it be ripe enough ; if nor, they clofe the hole again» but elfe they immediately fell the tree» as if fuffered to remain too long, and till it produces fruit, they know that the pith will ^ura entirely ii)to ^eep filamentS| and yield no iago. T. When Digitized by Google [ 343 ] When the tree is thus felled, it is cut through in the middle of its length, into two or more pieces, and the hard bark of each piece is fplit afunder by the infertion of wedges ; the fago then appears unco- vered, juft like the fpungy fubftance in our elder-trees. They then make a certain in- ftrument, refembling an adze, out of one of tlie branches of the tree they have felled, with which they loofen the fago all round from the bark, and reduce it to the appear- ance of fawduft, The whole tree being thus poekeled out, the raw fago is put, by portions, into a trough, like a canoe, and water is poured upon it, and well mixed with the fago, by which means the meal is feparated from the filaments. ' ' Thefe filaments, which might be denomi- nated the bran of the fago, are called ela^ and are made ufe of to feed hogs, poultry, &c. The water, thus impregnated with the fago-meal,' having flood flill for fomc time, the meal fubfides, by its own weight, to the bottom, the water is then poured off, and it is a fecond time purified in the fame man- % 4 ner j Digitized by Google [ 344 ] ncr ; after this, the wet meal is laid upon flat wicker-baikets, to dry, and it is then kneaded together, and into little cakes of three inches long, two inches broad, and half an inch thick ; finally, it is put into moulds of the fame fize and fhape, and baked over the fire, till it is done enough, and becomes dry and hard. * The' tafte of the fago-bread does not much vary from that of the Cajfava^ or Manioc^ of the Weft-Indies ; but it appeared to me to be more nutritive ; it is not unplcafant to eat, when it has been firft a little fbaked, and afterwards fried in butter; yet it is very difficult of digeftion. . The fineft part of the meal is mixed with water, and the pafte is rubbed into little round grains, like fmall fliot, and dried. This preparation is not difagreeable in foups, in lieu of Italian macaroni : the fago that is * The mould, or oven, for baking fago-bread is made of earthen ware ; it is generally nine inches fquare, and about four deep^ divided into two equal parts by a partition parallel to its fides. Each of thofe parts is fubdivided into eight or nine^ about an inch broad, fo that the whole contains two rows of cells, about eight or nine in a row. The oven is turned firft on one fide and afterwards on the other, upon the fire, and the cakes are fufficiently baked in about ten or twelve minutes, r, produced Digitized by Google [ 345 ] produced in Borneo is eftecmed the beft for this purpofc. A preparation is likewifc made of this fineft part of the meal> which is called fopeJa, and has much refemblancc to the porridge of buckwheat-meal which is made in Hollandy but it is much more gelatinous. This is eat off of little fticks, which being dipped into the popeda^ take with them a part of It which adheres to them ; they are then dipped in fifh-broth, and, together with a little fifli, conftitute the beft difh of the Amboynefe, and even of thofe who are de- fendants of Europeans. A tomaj or twenty-five pounds weight, of fago-meal, is fold here, in general, for feven or eight ftivers ; and an ordinary tree, which can commonly be poekeled from its twelfth to its twentieth year, yields five or fix hun- dred pounds of it. Befides the farinaceous part for food, the fago-tree yields other things of utility to the Indians. The ftem or bark, after the meal has been poekeled out, is made ufe of by the na- tives, to form little bridges, over rivulets, or little creeks. What are called the branches, which are chan<- Digitized by Google [ 346 ] channelled on the upper fide, and convex on the under, I'erv^e alio fbmetimes for the fame purpofe ; but the chief ufe which the Amboynefe make of them is for the walls and roofs of their houfes, and for packing- cafes, &c. This article is called gabbe^ gabba^ The leaves, laced together, form what is called atapy and ferve inftead of tiles for co- vering of houfes, and to preferve things from the rain ; but roofs of atap muft be renewed every fix or feven years *. Although ♦ The fago-rree has, like all the trees of the palm-kind, a Cibbagc, which is eaten by the natives, though it is not fo good or wholefome as that of the anubong^ or proper cabbage- palm. When a fago-rrce has been felled, the cla^ or refufe, is frequently left in the woods, and the wild hogs fatten upon it; a kind of mufiirooms, which are much efleemqd by the natives, grow upon the heaps oiela. The fago-tree is even of benefit aficr it has been deprived of its pith, and left to rot where it was felled ; for when rotten, a fort of .very fat white worms, called fago-mjorms^ with brown heads, are found in it, which the Indians roaft, and think a great delicacy. A computation has been made by Forrlst of how many perfons may live an an acre planted with fago-irees. A fago-trec he allows to take up 100 fquare feet; now the contents of an acre arc 43»S^ Square feet, which allows 435 trees to grow within that fpace; but fuppofing only 300, and that, one with another, they give 300 weight of flour, then three trees, or 900 weight, would maintain one man for a year, and an acre to be cut down Digitized by Google [ 347 3 Although the fago-tree grows on almoft all the iflands of this province, it is upon that of Hoev)amoehily or Little Ceram^ that the largeft woods of it are found, of which the Company referve the property to them- felves, and annually di{pofc of their produce to their own emolument. The woods of JLoeboe 2Li\AHanitello yielded to the Company» in one year, according to the report of Go- vernor Rqozeboom, the quantity of lotjlb. It is diftinguiflied into three forts, which the Company have re(pe6lively fold at the fol- lowing prices : the maba poetey^ or beft fort, at i rix- dollar per lb, the majou baroe^ or fecond fort, at \ rix- dolJar per poundt down would maintain loo men for the fame time; now, at fago-trees are feven years a-growing, lOO divided by fevcni l¥ill allow fourteen men to be maintained for a year on the produce of one-feventh part of an acre, immediately, or on the produce of a whole acre, progreflively cut, one-feventh part at a time, allowing frefli trees to fprout up. By Dr- FoRSTEn's computation, ten or twelve perfons live eight pnonths upon the produce of an acre planted with bread-fruit* ;rees, at Qtabcit^. T* the Digitized by Google [ 348 ] the feri hoa^ or third fort, at \ rixdol- lar per pound *• In how far now thefe {ago-woods of Little Ceram are a fource of revenue to the governor of Amboyna^ I will not here exa- mine into. Fruits and vegetables for food, or refrefli- ment, are but fcarce. The ihaddock +, which is by no means as good as at Batavia^ 3, few fweet oranges, mangos J, mangofteens §, the bilembing ||, and watermelons, are al- * The incondftency of this paragraph with what hai gone before, mull be afcribed to fome very material errors of the prefs, in numercial charaé^ers, in the original ; the quantity of ICO; /^. of fago is barely the produce of two trees, accord* ing to what has preceded, and therefore is palpably abfurd as applied to the produce of tife largefi nuooJs ; fuppofiog it even ought to have been printed 106,700, if would fall confiderably fliort of what that exprelHoii would lead us to exped, as it would then be no more than the produce of about 200 trees. How, too, fliall we reconcile the prices of i|, and i, rixdoUar per pound, with that of feven or eight ftivers for twenty-five pounds ? No clue has been found in any of the writers con- fnlted to folve thefe difficulties, and there was therefore no alternative to leaving the text as it ftands in the original. TV •f* Citrus decumamu, X Mangifera indica, % Garcinia mangoftana, |{ Averrboa lelimbu moft Digitized by Google [ 349 ] moftthe only fruits, and they are not very abundant. The few vegetables which grow here, require infinitely more attention in rearing them than at Batavia. T\it fagwire is a liquor drawn from a tree, which, according to the little know- ledge I have of botany, belongs to the fame genus with the cocoa-nut, fago, firi, and date- trees. It is of the fame nature as the toddy, or palmwine. When it firft comes from the tree, it is clear, and looks much like pure water. Its tafte is fweet, but refrefhing. It becomes acidulated by degrees, and at laft turns quite four, which, however, can be prevented by preparing it by means of a certain bitter wood *, which being put into it preferves it good for a long time : although it then lofes its pleafant tafte, and turns thickeft, look- ing like orgeade, or almond- milk, it is ef- tcemed more wholefome, and has an ine- briating quality ; it is afterwards kept in bottles well worked. * For this purpofe the roots of a tree called the /ofoof -irce arc ufed, which occaiion a fermentation in the /agwiri^ and in about eight hours, make it fit for keeping. T. The Digitized by Google t 3SO ] The tree which yields this liquor, has always a faded appearance, with many yel- low, ^ead leaves, which look much like thofe of the fago-tree. One of thefe leaves, or rather branches, is cut off, and the Jagwire trickles out of it by drops, which are caught in a bamboo, hung under it for that purpofe, and when this is full, the contents are drawn off, by a tap at the bottom ; this operation is called tyffering. The woods are filled with deer, and with wild hogs, the flefh of which animals is almoft the only meat that is eaten here. It is ufed frefh, falted, and dried : in the laft manner, it is called dingding ; it is broiled a little over the fire, and eaten with rice : it is a chief article of food of the Europeans, and the Amboynefe eat it likewife when they can afford to purchafe it. Among the wild animals, which inhabits the woods of the ifland BourOy there is one which bears the name of babi-rouffa, or the hog-deer \ it has been fully defcribed by Valentyn, who has given us a reprefenta- tion of it; but it appeared to me, when I compared the figure with one of the animals alive. Digitized by Google [ 3S^ 1 alive, that its legs were longer than they are there reprefented*. The bay ufed formerly to abound in fi(h ; but they are not fo plentiful now, on ac- count of the violent earthquake of the year 1754. Mofï of the fifli that are found here are peculiar to thefe feas* ♦ The hahi'VQuffa^ which is a Malay appellation, fignlfying hog-deer, partakes, as its name denotes, of the nature both of the hog and of the deer. The chief Angularity oi the animal conflfls in two of its upper teeth being curved round, and, pene- trating through the bone of the forehead, appear juft above the fnout, Hke two femicircular horns ; they are fometimes {o ht bent round, that they grow into the bone of the head again : it has likewife two tufks placed in the under jaw, like other wild boars : the female is without any of thefe projeéling teeth : it has a foft thin fkin, with fhort hair, and has no bridles : the fnout is more pointed than that of the other wild hogs, and the tail is longer, with a bunch of hair at the end ; the ears are pretty ihort, and the eyes fmall; its feet have each two long and two fhort toes, but the fore legs are much ihorter than the hinder ones ; thefe animals are eafily hunted down ; but they frequently hurt the dogs with their lower tu/ks; the upper tufks are too far recurvated to admit of their defending them- felves with them. Their flefli more refemblcs venifon than pork ; there is little fiat upon it, it being moftly folid meat. They do not live, like the other wild hogs, upon fago and ca- nari, a fort of almonds, but chiefly upon grafs and the leaves of trees. They never aflbciate with the wild hogs, and when hunted, they generally take to the water, where they are very expert in fwimming and in diving, and fometimes fwim over from one ifland to the other. 7'. Many Digitized by Google . [ 352 ] Many very ftrange fiflies, muft have been met with here, in the time of Valentyn*; and in this region of wonders, it is not TuiB- cieut that the really (ingular produftions of nature are beheld and admired, or feared, but fuperftition has multiplied wonders upon wonders. Inter alia^ there is, fays the Amboynefe, and like wife the Macaffers, a monfter that has its abode in thefe feas, which they deibribe as having a thoufand legs, all of them fo large, that if it lay but one of the thoufand upon any veflel, it muft immediately founder; and yet this monfter is believed to be afraid of a common cock ; whence thefe poor fuperftirious mortals will never put to fea without having chanticleer for a guardian-angel on board. There is likewife, it is faid, a large fifli, near the pierhead at Amhoynay to which the name of "Jacob Ever tj en has been given, and they pretend that it takes away one man every year. I am not qualified to fay whe- ther any fifh of the (hark kind does, or docs not, particularly refort to that fpot, although jnany reputable people at Amboyna believe ♦ Valentyn defcfibes, and gives reprefentadons of, jaS different forts of liih« moilly peculiar to thefe feas. f • the Digitized by Google [ 353 ] the whole ftory ; but it is certain, however, that on the evening of my arrival here, about nine o'clock, a lailor of one of the floops that lay juft behind my Ihip, on his fwim^^ ming a-fhore to fetch his pocket-handker-- chief, which he had left, was fo dreadfuUj bitten by fome fifh or other in the head, that he died the fame night ; and he would pro-- bably have been dragged to the bottom and devoured, had not immediate afliftance beea given to him, upon his loud cries for help, as well from my fliip as from the other veffels. From lions, tigers, wolves, and other beafts of prey, Amboyna is free. The moft noxious animals are fnakes, of which there are feveral forts in the woods and fields, which are amply defcribed by Va- le ntyn. I one morning, walkipg in the garden behind my houfe, found the oelar bifa nepis^ or thin poifon fnake^^ fo clofe to me, that I fhould * Nearly twenty diiferent forts ©f fnakes are defcribed by Valei/tyn. Among them the oelar bifa biroe, or blue poijbn fnake^ is the moft venemous ; it is no more than a foot and a half in length, and about two inches thick ; it is remarkably quick, and its bite is mortal. The odqt bifa nepisj or tbiu VOL. II. A A poifon Digitized by Google I 354 ] ihould probably have trodden on it^ had it not firft difcovered and hiifed at me^ whcrebf I had juft time to retire from the dangerous neigLJourhood; I caught it a little while afterwards, and prefervcd it in fpirits. The fnakes with legs, appear to me to belong rather to the lizard tribe, than that of fnakes. Among the fiiigularities here» we may reckon the flying lizard* I fhall not {peak of the other animals and infeds, crocodiles» alligators, gek-kos, lizards, fcorpions, centipedes, nor of the very curious infeft called the walking leaf^ as they arc all fufficiently defcribed by Valentyn.* Of the domeflic animals, among which are enumerated buffaloes, cows, horfes^ flieep, goats, and hogs, the laftmentioned only are natives of the country ; the others poifinfnake^ is fcarcely a quarter of an inch thick, and about a foot and a half, or two feet, In length ; its bite is eqiiaUf in- mutable. T. » The inellimable work of Valentyv, to which the reader b fo frequently referred, is fcarce even in Holland ; tt cbnfifts of five large folio volumes, containing upwards of 2000 copperplates. The tranflator is in pofïèifion of a cc^jf which he procured at much pains and expence ; and would his limits allow of it, he would be more copious in his extraAs from it, as it is a treafure locked up in a chefl, of which few have the key, no tianflation having ever been made of it. T. have Digitized by Google t 355 1 have been brought hither, as well by the Portuguefe as by the Dutch, from Java^ Celebes^ and the fbuthweftem ifles. The cows here give much Icfs milk, and w^orfe butter than in Java ; the price of the butter remains the fame as it was eighty years ago, in the time of Valentyn, viz» OD€ rixdoilar per pounds AAz . CHAP- Digitized by Google [ 3S6 1 CHAPTER IV. Inhabitants ^Amboyna. — ^e Alfoereje. — Acctnod of them hy Rumphius. — the Ambeynefe. — Thiir Stature, — Appearance. — temper. — f be Ff^omen. — Their Laftivioufnejs. — The Religion of the Am- ' boynefe. — Their Idolatry, Vices. — Amboyn^e Chrijlians. — Their Superftition. — Their Govern^ ment. — The Cbinefe. — Account of a Cbinefe Jlfor- riage at Amboyn A. — Defcendants ofPortuguefe. — Foundation and Extenfton of the Power of the Duchy here. . A HE inhabitants of Amhoytta^ and of the adjacent iflands belonging to this govern- ment, may properly be divided into four clafles, viz. the Alforefb, the Amboynefe, the Europeans, and the Chinefc. The Alfoers or Alfoerefe arc, in all pro- bability, the firfl; and moft ancient inhabi- tants of thefe countries ; at the prefent day they ftill remain feparate from the other in- habitants, and dwell in the mountainl^ of Bouro and Ceram^ where they live accord- ing Digitized by Google C 357 ] ing to their ancient cuftoms, and avoid all intercourfe with the inhabitants of the fea- coafts, except when they are in want of fuch articles as are not to be met with in the interior parts of the iflands, which chiefly confifts in iron and fait, againft which com- modities they give in barter the produ6lions of their mountains. The few which I faw of this nation, ap- peared to me not fo dark in colour, and both handfomer and more finewy than the Amboynefe. I met with the following account of them, in the defcription of Amboyna compofed by RuMPHius, which, having been prohibited by the government at Batoföia, has never been printed, but of which a manufcript copy is preferved in the fecretary's office at Amboyna. *< Moll of the Alforefe inhabit the wild ** mountains and interior parts of Ceram. ^^ They are large, ftrong, and favage people, " in general taller than the inhabitants of '* the fea-£hores; they go moftly naked, both " men and women, and only wear a thick " bandage round their waift, which is called '^ chiaaca^ and is made of the milky bark of A A 3 '* a tree. Digitized by Google 4i C 358 3 <* a tree, called by them facka (being the " Jicamorus alba). They tic their hair up- ** ' on the head over a cocoa-nut fheU, and *^ ftick a comb in it; round the neck they •* wear a firing of beads* ** Their arms are, a fword made of bam* boo, together with a bow and arrows. They are öiarp-fighted, and fb nimble ^* in running, that they can run down and *' kill a wild hog, at its utmoft fpeed. ** An ancient, but moft dcteftable and " criminal cuftom prevails among them, ** agreeable to which, no one is allowed to •^ take a wife, before he can (hew a head of ** an enemy which he has cut off: in order *' to obtain this qualification for matrimony, " fix, eight, or ten of them go together to a ** ftrange part, where they ftay till they have •* an opportunity of furprifing fomc one, ** which they do with great dexterity, fpring- *• ing upon the unwary paffenger like tigers: ** they generally cover thcmfclves with " branches of trees and buflies, fo that they •* are rather taken for brakes and thickets *^ than for men ; in this pofture they lie in " wait for their prey, and take the firft op^ ^ portunity that prefcnts itfelf of darting << their Digitized by Google [ 359 ] ^' their tw'an or fagoe (a fort of miflilc lance) ** into the back of a paflcnger, or fpring ^^ upon him at once^ and cut off his head, ** with which they inftantly decamp, and fly *' with fpeed from the fccnc of their wanton ** barbarity, ** If they want to build a new houfc, or *' a new bakeuw^ which is a kind of council- •* hall, they muft equally firft go and fetch ** fomc human heads. They are not to be ^' broken of this horrid cufliom ; and it is ** the only objeélion they make to embrac- ** ing the Chriftian religion, that they muft ^^ then abandon it ; for no one attains a *^ higher degree of fame and refpeél, than " he who has brought in the moft heads ; *' and in proof of his^ prowefs, he wears ^^ as many little white fhells round his neck ** and arms, as he harf murdered men. ** The' heads thus brought in are (hewn •* upon a ftone in the village, confecrated to ** that purpofe, and are afterwards heaped ** together in dark groves, in the recefles of •' ,the mountains» where they praélifê their '• diabolical rites, for they do not perform •* the demonolatry they are .addiéled to, in f^ any temples^ but here and there in fblitary A A 4 ** places, Digitized by Google C( [ 360 ] *^ places, and in dreary woods, where the •' devil anfwers their interrogatories, and ** often carries away fome of them, efpe- cially children, for three or four months, ** after which time he brings them back ** again, after having prefented them with ** painted canes, to which feveral little fixings ** of Chinefc copper-money are attached *. •* They fubfift upon the wild animals * Thefc circumftaaces aflume a more probable appearance in the more ample relation which Valkntyn gives of the re- ligion of the Alforefc, ** They have," he fays, " in Coram, ** and elfew here, temples which they call «mrf/f, and like- *' wife fet9e*v», made of gabbe gabha, which ftand in the ** deepeft part of the woods, and under the darkeft trees. In ** them, parents deliver their children, under twelve years of ^* age, to the priefts, to be inftrufted in the fervice of their '< demon or god, and the priefls receive the children, without «* the parents being able to fee any thing in the temple, on ac- *^ count of the almoft utter darknefs that prevails in it. Im- <* madiately after they hear the moft difmal cries, and fee «f bloody pikes flicking through the roof of the temple; and <^ though this would feem to denote that their children aie •* murdered, they receive them back in three months. Each *' of thofe children then receives a painted ftick of thin white ^' cane, upon which fome figures are burnt, and to which a ** few firings of Chinefe copper coins are hung ; they arc then ^' rubbed with yellow paint and aromatic oils, and fent about ^f the village to beg for gongs, clothes, and other things, fpr f* the chief prieft." The remainder of the account he give? pf the Alforefe^ though iar more copious, is perfeétly fimilar ;p and confident with that of Mr. Rumphius, T. ♦* whigk Digitized by Google 44 4C [ 36» ] ^* which they catch in the woods ; nor do ** they even difdain Inakcs. Their women arc of a tolerably fair complexion, well proportioned, and alto* *' gether by no means difagreeable. " Among thefe Alforefe, there is another ^* kind of favage people, who do not dwell *^ in any houfes or huts, but upon high " warinje, and other trees, which fpread ** their branches wide round : they lead and ** intertwine the branches fo clofely together, '^ that they form an eafy refting-place ; and ** each tree is the habitation of a whole fa- ** mily : they adopt this mode, becaufe they ♦^ dare not truft even thofe of their own na- ^^ tion,.as theyfurprize each other during ** the night, and kill whoever they take ^' hold of." Thus far the relation of Mr. Rumphius, who being a man of fome experience and much reputation, deferves credit in fbme in* ftances. I could not meet with any other intelli- gence refpeöing thefe people at Amboyna^ as they are but feldom vifited, and ftill more rarely by people either able or willing to ob- ferve and record what is curious among thtm. The Digitized by Google [ 3^2 ] The Amboyncfc arc alio very ancient in- habitants of thefe iflands ; but the difference of their make^ and the rather darker (hade of their complexion, fecm to point out that they are not defcended from the iamc proge- nitors as the Alforefe. They are of a middling fize, rather thin than otherwife; their colour is nearer ap- proaching to black than to brown; both men and w^i^^^ have regular features, and among the latter there are very many who are handibme : it {eetned very probable to me, that the country or the climate contri* buted much to this, though how or why I cannot tell, for the children of Europeans bora here, are ala oft all pretty, and much more lo than in yava^ or at Batavia. Neither the thick lips, nor the depreiTed nofes, which, according to our ideas of beau- ty, defojm the " human face divine'* in other hot countries, are feen here ; but on the contrary, and efpecially among the females, perfe6^1y fymmetrical countenances arc the general charaderiftic of the inhabitants. They are indolent and effeminate, and both want and violence prove but feej)le mo- tives to incite them to labour. Yet this is no more than is almoft univerfally the cafe witlï Digitized by Google [ 3^3 ] with all nations who bow their necks under a foreign yoke, efpecially in the Afiatic re* gions^ and other warm countries : and I think it probable^ though the heat of the climate is alone fufficient to produce inadi*» vity, and a repugnance to every thing that fatigues the body, that they had been {laves inured to fervitude under the domi* nion of flrangersv long before the Europeans came hither. The fervency of the climate^ united to the eafy mode of procuring fub- fiftence from the iago-tree, and from the copious fupply of fi(h, which was formerly within their reach, in the bay of Ambêynn^ have been the caufes that they have never been obliged to have recourie to the fatigu* ing labours of agriculture^ to adminifter to the wants of nature. Hence they have ea* jQly fallen a prey to the nations who aimed at iubduing them, as was manifcft in the war with the Tcrnatefe, the Portuguefe, and the Dutch. Neither were they at all the cauie that the princes of Celebes have not extended their dominion fo far to the eaft- ward, for the three abovementioned nations Iiave always prevented it ; although at that time the kings of Noujanivei took the high founding Digitized by Google [ 3<54 ] founding and proud tide of kings often tbau^ /and /words. The Company muft not, therefore, ever think that the Amboynefe would be of any help to them, in cafe a foreign power were to endeavour to wreft thele pofTeilions from them ; for, were there no other reafons to in- duce them to look upon any change as being for the better, their indifferent, indolent, and timorous difpofition would be fufficient to prevent them from joining either fide. It is true, that thofe of Hitoe formerly fliewejl a little more courage in the civil commotions which took place in the laft century, when they fought for indepcndance, as they could no longer bear the oppreffion of their inhu- man tafk-mafters ; but in the cafe we have fuppofed, it would be the fame to them, be- neath which European yoke they had to bend ; as, let the event be as it might, they would always have to wear the chains of the conquerors ; beiides that, as attached to the Mahomedan religion, they are the fworn enemies of all chriftians. The women, though they are not fo in- dolent as the men, are, on the other hand, cxceffivcly lafcivious; they poffefs no chaftity either Digitized by Google r 3^5 J V either in a married, or an unmarried ftate^ and there is nothing that can reftrain thenv from fatisfying th«ir paffionate defires. It is very ufual among them, that a girl gives proofs of her fruitfulnefs before marriage^ which is never the leaft bar to getting a hufband ; and, on the contrary, frequently is a reafon for being preferred to others, of whom it is lefs certain that they are capable of becoming mothers. The Amboynefc were in former times, as the Alforefe are at prefent, idolaters ; but the Javenefe, who began to trade hither in the latter end of the fifteenth, and in the beginning of the fixteenth century, endea* voured to dilleminate the doörines of Ma- homet here, and they fuccoeded fo well, that in the year 15 15, that religion was generally received. The Portuguefe arriving here in the mean time, endeavoured likewife to make the Ro- man catholic religion agreeable to the in- habitants, and to propagate it amongft them ; which, in particular, took place, according to RuMPHius, in the year 1532, on the penin- fula of Leytimorf but thofe of Hitoe have, to the prefent day, remained firmly attached to Digitized by Google [ 366 1 to the Mahomcdan faith, whence, in contta« diftindion to the Leytimorefe, they are call- ed Moors, • When our people came to Amboyna^ and the Portuguefe were expelled from the ifland, the protedant religion was gradually introduced ; yet the unpleafing refult of thefe frequent changes of religion has been, as might naturally be expeöcd, that, from bli^id idolaters, they have firft become bad Roman catholics, and afterwards worfe pro- teftants. The praélice of idolatry cannot yet be wholly eradicated : this, added to the pre- valence of the fuperftitions which difgrace chriftanity among the followers of the Ro- man cadiolic perluafion, and the almoft univcrfal negligence, and want of zeal, of our ecclefiaftics in theib regions, almoft en- tirely takes away the hope that the lalutary doftrines of the gofpel will ever be deeply rooted here, and that the Amboynefe will ever be cured of their deplorable blind- nefs. I cannot either fay much good refpeöiflg their moral conduéfc j I have before men- tioned that the women arc univerlally un- chafie. Digitized by Google [ 3^7 1 chaftcy and the men arc, in this refpeéè, na better. Theft is likewife one of the moft prevalent vices among the Amboynefe, and they are not a little dexterous in contriving the means of pilfering ; I had twice expe-* rience of their adroitneis in this refped» during my reiidence among them« Malice and envy are predominant paffions in their breafts, and are carried to great excefs; they envy each other the lead degree of benefit^ or profperity ; yet this is feldom produélive of public afTaflination^ or private murder^ among them» for being a pufiUanimous and fuperftitious race of men, death is to them^, more than to any other nation, a king of terrors. When thefe Amboyneie chriilians go ia their veflels paft a certain hill on the fouth coaft of Ceram^ they make an offering to the evil fpirit, which they believe reiidea there, in order that he may not do any harm to them, ot to their vëflèls* Thit offering is made in the following manner: they lay a few flowers, and a finall piece of money» into empty cocoanut«fhe]ls, which they fet a-floating in the water : if it be in the evening, they put oil^ into them, with little Digitized by Google [ 3«8 ] , little wicks, which they fct a-light, and let burn out upon the water : they arc pcr- fuaded that, by this means» they have ap-* peafed the evil fpirit, and that he will not raife any ftorm againft them. Valkntyn has been fufficicntly ample in defcribing their drefs, houfes, difcafcs, cuftoms, &c, * to preclude the neceffity of my faying more about them 5 I wifh only to obferve that that writer has placed al- moft every thing in the moll advantageous light. The inhabitants of Amboyna feem, from time immemorial, never to have been united under one head ; but, as the moft ancient accounts and traditions relate, each negree, or village, was governed by its own chief. It is true, there have been, and there are at prefent, unions of four or five negrees under one chief ; but they are the leaft in num- ber : amon^ thele, the principal is Nouffam- vel, whofe rajab, or king, has three other negrees under his dominion. * In chapter i, ii, üi> and iv. of the fourth, and chap- ter i. of the fifth book of vol. II. of VAtBNTYK's (hd ea ninm Oft Indim. T. Thefc Digitized by Google £ 369 ] Thefe chiefs are diftinguifhed Into three clafles, or ranks ; thus, there are rajahs^ or kings ; pattis, who may be faid to be dukea or earls ; and cran cayos, which fignifics as much as rick men. Their chiefis, however, do not pofTefs an abfolute authority : every negree has given as council to their chief, coniifting of the oldeft and moft refpeétable men of the village, who are called oran touas^ that is, elders ; and the nyah^ pattif or oran cayo^ of the negree is bound to con-> fult with them at the caleeuw^ or council- hall, on all the concerns of the community* Every negree has likewife its marinhos^ who do not affift at tl^e councils, but are ex- alted above the commonalty, and fervc for exhorters and encouragers of the people in •^ery public work* 'Befides fbveral little fervices which the common people are obliged to perform for thefc chiefs *, the laft have likewife an in- come proceeding from the crops of cloves, * They are obliged to build the houfes of their chiefs, and to furnifh ail the timber, gabbe gabba, atap, and other mate* rials neceilary for the confiruftion, but the chie6 muft main- Hm them while they are at work. T. VOL. II. B B which Digitized by Google [ 37^ ] which the Company have beftbwed upon them-' The Company pay^ for every ihar of five hundred and fifty pounds weight of cloves, fifty-fix rixdollarsi ot one hundred-and-thir- ty-four gilders, and eight ftivers * ; but of this, the planters receive only fifty-one rix- dollars, the remaining five being divided among the village-chiefs, three being al- lotted to the rdJaA^ pattu or oran cnyo^ one and a half to the fHran touas^ or elders, and one-half rixdollar to the marinbos. For thefc and other reafons, the offices above alluded to, are eagerly fought after, and arc only obtained fbr a certain füm of money, of which fome of the governors who have ruled here in behalf of the Com- pany, have not a little availed ; I couidk enumerate fome, who haVe come here with very little property, and in the courfe of a few years^ by thefe, and other means, have accumulated confiderable wealth, and who, immediately upon their return to Bataiiia^ > "the cloves 'cotl the Dutch Company, at Jmhojnm^M fix {livers per pound, or about 6\d, ftcriing. T. Digitized by Google t 37' J havê^ iii doiifeqüetice, folicitecl leave from the government, to tranfpiit large fums of money to Eutope* The fale of thcfe t-cjentfliips is not, how- ever, an innovation of latejdatc ; for, from the beginning, every oran cayo paid fifty rixdollars for his nomination, a patti one hundred, and a rajab ftill more ; fo that the rajab of Nouffanivel was even once obliged to give a gratification of three thoufand rix^- dollars. The Chinefe who frequent this ifland, as well as all the others in the eailern parts of India, where the Company have pof- feffions, are not, however, v^xy numerous at Amboyna^ becaufe there is very little trade, and fcarcely any agriculture, two purfuits, to which, in general, that nation are very averfe to. If a calculation of their number were to be made from the head-money which they pay, all the Chi- nefe would fcarcely be found to amount to one hundred individuals ; but thé frauds 'which are praéitifed in the declarations mfuie in this refpeét, are the caufe that this camiot be confidered as a proper rule. They dwell here in a fiiect, which is * ^ h z called Digitized by Google [ 37^ ] called after them, where they keep their ihops, with all forts of provifions, &c. for fale. They are under the authority of a chief of their own nation, who is called captain, and who has at prcfent a lieutenant under him, which was not formerly the cafe ; but one of the governors was induced to inftitute this lieutenant's office, by means of a prcfent of five hundred rixdoUars. They do not intermarry with the Am- boynefe, but marry amoitgft each other ; and if it happen that they are in want of wo- men, they take Macafler or Bouginefe girls for concubines. In the month of April of the year 1775, a Chinefe youth came purpofely from Batavia to Amboynay to marry .the daughter of one of his countrymen who was fettled here, and was a man of property. I went to fee the ceremonies that were made ufe of; I came too late to fee the beginning of them, which, I was told, confifted principally in the throw- ing backwards and forwards of an egg into the wine fleeves of the bridegroom and of the bride. I found them both fitting next to each other in a parlour, with their eyes fixed on Digitized by Google Ü 373 ] - . on the ground» as if mdAitating on what had been done» without fpeaking a word to, or looking at each other. An oblong little table ftood before them, covered with red filk, which wa? embroidered with flowers of gold; upon it were fet, befprc each of them, a little cup with tea, and three or four little china difhes with confeélionary and boiled birds* nefts. The bridal bed was in tht fame apartment; it was likewife hung round with red filk ; but there was a parti- tion made in it, feparating the place where the bridegroom was to lie, from that of the bride ; the former, however, occupied about two-thirds of the bed. The bride, who was a plump jolly maiden, nearly white, and pretty enough, wore a robe of red filk, with long and wide fleevcs; a chain of gold hung round her neck, and down upon her bofom^ on her head (he wore a black bonnet, taper- Jng upwards to a point, and adorned with three rows of jewels. The bridegroom was drefled in a fimilar robe of blup filk and cot- ton. They both kept their arms and hands conftantly tucked into the fleeves. When the bridegroom ftood up, he did it fo flowly »nd cautioufly, and without moving his eyes B R 3 ia Digitized by Google [ 374 ] ip the Itaft, that Ift appeared ptrftSAy like an image of wax, or an automatoa moTed by invifible mechanifm^ The young couple were forced to etidure the ^repetition of this tedious ceremony for three fucceffive days, and always in fight of their nuptial bed, before they were allowed to perform the eflential rites of marriage* There are ftill many defcendants of the Portuguefe here, who, when their country- men were forced to give up the dominion of the ifland to ours, chofe to remain under the government of the Dutch. The principal Amboyneic Chriftians ft^l bear Portuguefp ngmes, which their ancef- tors received at their baptifm; but the PoTr tuguefe language is |efs fpoken here, than in any other part of India, and the number of the fibovementioned defcendants of Portuguefe i$ not large. Our country ntien who, in the year 1605, under the command of their admiral Ste- phen VAN DER Hagen, took the cafUe of ViSioria^ which was the chief fettlement of the Portuguefe upon the ifland, are now here abfolute mafters, as vp^ll over the peninfulag pf Hitoe and Leytimor^ as over the Uliafer^^ Digitized by Google [ 375 ] which comprehends the iflands of Omaj Ho* nimoa, Nouffhy and Molaria^ and likewife over Manipay Kelang^ Bonoa^ the north coaft of Bouro, Little Ceram or Hoewamoehil^ and .^£bmc places on Great Cerarffi ajthpugh 9 great part of the laft century was elapfed before they wprc in full pofleiliou pf jhe coaA of Hitoey as well as of Little Ceram j on account of the oppofition they met with from the Quimelaèas, or Ternatefe gover- nors, the king of Ternate looking upon part of thefc countries as his territory ; and from the four chiefs of Hitoe^ who refufed to be deprived of their independance, and openly refilled the arms of the Company. But thefe obftacles being now removed, the Company have little more to do than to oppofe the at- tempts of foreign nations, and to prevent a clandeftine trade with them, of which 1 fhall fay more hereafter/ B B 4 CHAP- Digitized by Google [ 376 1 CHAPTER V. Government ai Ambotka. — CounfehfPclify. — Re^ venues of the Governors. — Vice^Govemor. — Com- mandant of the Military. — Refident of Hi la. — Chief of SiVAKouA.—Fifeal.— Chief of Ha- KouKO. — Refident of Lakikz. — Chiefs éfEov- RO, and Manipa. — Other Servants of the Com- pany. — Allowance to the Company^ s Servants «tf of the Crop of Cloves. — Repartition (f it among them. — Council of Juftice. — Great Influence of the Governor. — Shameful Abufes. — Inftance of unex- ampled Cruelty and Injujlice. — Other Courts or Boards. — Clergymen and Ecckjiaftical Matters^ X HE general adminiftration of the affairs of this province is vcftcd in a governor, who is appointed by the council of India, and is commonly one of the fecretarics of the council, or one of the Company's fervants at other out-fa(ftories; the fecond has feldom fucceedcd to the command, the reafon of which I am ignorant of^ A council is appointed to ailift the gover- nor, cplififting of the firft qualified fcrvants of Digitized by Google [ sv 3 of the Company» whofe advice and concur* rence he Is bound to have^ in planning» ar- ranging» and executing all matters of im« pottance» as is the cafe in all the out-fac« tories ; but in how far the power of thf go- vernor is hereby circumfcribed» is eafily de- ducible from the confideration» that he pof- fcfles the power of difmiffing the counfellors from the Company's fervice, and fending them to Bataviüj where it does not often happen that a fuperior is caft in any dilputc with an inferior ; and the injured party fel* dom finds either redrefs or confolation, un- lefshe have powerful friends to make intercft in his |>ehalf. Befides that fuch a governor is able by a thóufand different means» and in indire£l ways» to treat fuch as he is difpleafed with, in fo mortifying a manner, and to curtail their income and emoluments to fuch a degree, that they would rather thank heaven to be out of his hands* But this evil has» alas ! been of long ffatnding ; it will always be one o^ the moft corroduig cankers that confume the vitals of the Company, and will at laft bring the fo- ciety to deftrudion. The revenues of a govetnor at Amboyna ^ being Digitized by Google C 378 1 i)cicg but fmall, on account óf the little trade •which is carried on here, and the confeqocnt extreme degree of fraud and opprcffion that prevailed here, induced the governmeptat Batavia^ with the approbation of the direc- tors at home, to come to a refolution iu the year 1755, to provide againft the growing evil J and they therefore determined to give the governor a yearly additional allowance of fix thoufand rixdollars, or fourteen thou* iand four hundred guilders *. » This, added to other emoluments which long prefcription has legalized, is iufficient to enable the governor to live according to l)is rank, without his being obliged to put fuch means in praöice, as one of the gover- nors, whole name I (hall not here mention, nfed to employ to double his revenues. The vice-governor, or fecond pcrfon in rank, is a fenior merchant, and at the fame time head-adminiftrator, filling likewife, as is the cuftom in all the out-faélories, the office of commercial book-keeper : he is alfo prefidentof the council of juftice, andof th^ orphan^chamber, * About ijooL Sterling. T. The Digitized by Google I 379 }' The third in rank is the commandant of the military, who has the rank, title, and pay of captain. He is the chief of all the troops in the whole province, the promotion (of all the fubaltem officers ufed formerly to be folely efi^ded at his recommendation ; but the advantages of this office were confi- derably .curtailed by Mr. * * *, who even publicly fold the places of ferjeants and cor- porals in the military, for fifty, or one hun- dred rix-düllars, both, to the Amboynefe and to the Europeans, without the commandant daring to complain of his proceedings ; and it now yields but a poor fubfiftence. Upop this officer follows, the chief or re- fident of |ï//«f, who has the greateft part of the north coaft of Hitoe^ and Uttle Ceram floewamoebil^ under his management; next to Sapftroup^ his tiiilrrd is the moft famous for the colköion of cloves : he has a good income, and the rank of merchantt The fifth in order is the chief of Sapa-^ roua; this faöory lies in the ifland Honimoa: not only that ifland, but alfo Noujfa laut^ and part of Great Ceram belong to his jurifdidion* The firft-named iflands are very tortile, and yield more than half the annual quantity of cloves Digitized by VjOO^IC I 380 1 cloves which arc gathered in the province^ The income of this rcfident is computed to yield only in amount to that of the governor. Next follows the fifcal^ who is equally a merchant in rank ; his duty, as every where, is to take care that the property of the Com- pany be not injured : he has likewife a coo- eluding vote in the council of polity. The fixth is the chief of Haraeko^ upon ihe ifland of Oma^ to which alfo belongs a part of Ceram: he is generally a junior merchant. TJie fevcnth is the chief of Larike. This fadory flands on the fouth-weft coaft of the land of HitoBj and the ifland of Am^ Mauwy which formerly belonged to Boura, has lately been put under the jurifdiétion of Larike. The SoIJyèoek&ouder J paymafter, or garri- fon book-keeper, is the eighth ; who is, at the fame time Curator ad lites^ and pre- fident of the board of controul over mar* riages. Thcfe eight, together with the winkelier ^Q€ purveyor, who, as well as the laft-mentioped officers, is a junior merchant, make the nine, who are appointed as a council of po- lity Digitized by Google t 3«' ] lity to watch over the intcrcfts of the Com- pany in conjunöion with the governor. They have a fccretary, who has alfo the rank of junior merchant. Upon thefe follow the refidents of Boura and ManipUj the cafhier, the fecretary of the council of juftice, who is at the fame time firft clerk in the office of the fecretary of the council of polity, tht Negotie ^ enSol^ dy-overdraagersy or the writers of the com- mercial and military ledgers, who are all book- keepers in rank ; and laftly, the comptroller of equipment, who had before the rank of fea-lieutenant, but now that of fea-captain. To this province further belong four lieu- tenants of the military, and eleven enfigns. ^ In order to afford a better means of fub-^ fiftence to all thefe placemen, a yearly re- partition is made, among them, according to their relpeóHve ranks, out of the annual crop of cloves ; and I fubjoin a ftatement of the repartition which was made in the year 1755, agreeable to the regulation eftablifh- cd by the government at Batavia, on the 31ft of May of the fame year, which will at the fame time give an idea of the quantity ofclovcs annually collected, viii. la Digitized by Google [382 ] In the Year 1755. F«a*riet. Cloves colieaed in all. Amouiit of ditto paid b^ the Company. %o per cent, on the «c(«^ al. low«4 to the Corrtpany^s fer- ▼anta Annantof ditto. ■t the chief f«- tlementi New Fiamm At the fkaory Séiparma Ihu "5»7«7 4a»>407 I49>«ö6 S9i*3» 49,««4 'rixd. Itio, "•7S7 «J 43.008 34* i5-*3» *9l 3»994 »oJ 5.000 33i 9.S161 rmd. ^rm. M57 *» 8,6oi 30* 3,046 »5 79» 4»* 1,00 a$4 Total. 77*."5 79 01^ ^0§ 'f5"«,,. 15 «05 oc* Kffortitiw anmg the Company sfervants of the aitve^ viz. ff tie 100 rix dollars» to the govenrar and diitOor to the fenior loerchant, fecond t* the captain commandant « . • to the nerchai^t, chief of HQs » • . to ditto ditto of ^^aroirtf to ditto liical ... to the junior mercfaant, chief of Barouh • to ditto ditto of Lmrike to ditto, ganrifon book-keeper to ditto purveyor • • - to ditto fecreury of the coancil of polity to rhe bo(^*keeper, refident of BMft to ditto caihier . • • to ditto reiident of Manila to ditto Iceietaiy of the council of jaftice to ditto writer of the comneicial ledger to ditto ditto of the military ledger to the comptibllor of equipaoeiit • « IB fo)ir licutcnanGi «nd cteveo eD6gQ99 together - HxJ. JKv. 40 per CM». . «»J»» '^ la 1,896 ay <3« 9l 1,106 l8oj oo{ This Digitized by Google E 383 3 This method certainly gives a confidcrable fupport to the fuperior fervants of the Com- pany, and it is not at the charge of the Com- pany, for it is the natives who pay it, and who are, at the fame time, as it is laid, well iatisfied with it ; for they were formerly (b much defrauded in the weights of the cloves they furniflied by the chiefs of the feverai fadories, that it is beyond belief, without the Company deriving any advantage from it ; wherefore the fupreme government, not knowing how to do otherwife to prevent the extortion of their fervants, put the mat- ter upon the prefent footing ; by which it is fettled, that of every hundred bhar cloves furniflied by the natives, only eighty fliall be delivered to the Company, while the other twenty arc to form the perquifites of their fervants, who, however, are obliged to fell their cloves to the Company at the fame price paid to the natives. In addition to this, the council of juflice and the fifcal are ikn£tly enjoined to watch againft all in- juftice^ or fraud, on the receipt and weigh- ing of the cloves coUefted, in order that any infradion of their regulations in this re- fpea Digitized by Google C 384 1 lQ)e£l may meet with an exemplary puniih- ment# The council of juftice confifls of the fccond, as prefident^ and fix members, who generally afTemble every fortnight, in a lower apartment of the ftadhoufe, or townhall. All civil and criminal caufcs are decided here ; but in the former, an appeal can be made to the council of juftice at Batavia ; and the execution of fentences in the latter, may be fufpended by the governor ; yet if he ap- prove them, whether they condemn the culprit to death, or to other corporal punifh- ment, they are carried into execution ; ex- cepting, however, when the delinquent has the rank of merchant, and he is then fent up to Batavia, with the papers relative to the profecution, and copy of his fentence ; as is equally the cafe in all the other out- fadtories. Although by an exprefs command of the fupreme government, the governor here may not intermeddle in any matters which come under the cognizance of the council of juf- tice, farther than to approve, or fufpend, their fentences in criminal cafes, yet fbme of Digitized by Google t 38]? ) of tliem arrogate -to themfelvès fb'ftiüch power ia tliis refpeft^ that, in tKb famB manner as in the council of polity^ they Force a conformation to their will, or bi3 open defiance to juftice and honefty^ if the members of the council reftife to ^bct thei^ iniquity* How much focver juftice may be admi- niftered here with feverity towaj'ds the in- ferior claffes, it is a lamentable circum^ ftance, and as worthy of abhorrence as it is notorious, that the greateft and móft (hameful crimes of perlbns of high rank*^ or of favourites, remain unnoticed and un- puniflied. I (hall adduce one inftance of this rank abufe of authority, from which a judgment refpefting others may be formed* The chief of a certain faétory upon one of the adjacent iflands, having for fbme time beheld, with eyes of defire, a young girJ, fcarccly fourteen years of age, and remarka^ bly beautiful, who had been adopted by a perfbn at Amboyr^^ and brought up in his own houfe, gave him and his family an "in- vitation to pay him a vifit. * tThe man ac- cepted it with confidciice and pleafiire, and went thither with his wife, his davrghtcr, VOL; II. c c and Digitized by Google [ 3«6 ] and this girL When^ in the evening, the guefts retired to reft, it was {o arranged by tjieir hoftt tb^t the obje£l of his licentjoi» porfuit was conduced to a bed in a diflant and folitajy apartment; there beings as it was pretended, no beds, or room, in or near ihofe occupied by her friends. In the dead of the night, when all, but the waHcfiil eyes of luft, were cloied in deep re- pofe, this wretch ftole to the apartment of thd innocent maid, whom he had thus in- n^eigfód into his fnare^, and completed his long-concerted £::heme of villanyi by the moft brutal violation of her charms. The poor viöim of his luft was found, the next morning, bathed in tears i and Scarcely lueiowing that ihe was undone, related the whole ejcaéUy as it happened. The per- petator of this deed of violence moft ftrenu- oufly defii^d the accul^tion ;- but he pre- tended, that he very well knew who was the ravilhef ; it was, he faid, one of his flaves, an Anpboynefe^ who had frequently IpefQre made ute of his mafter^s name to at- tain bis purpofe, and cover his enormities. Neither ^ürofig denial of the flave, nor the aanft fokmn afleveratipns of the girl^ that Digitized by Google C 3«7 3 that the Aafter^ aB4 9o &ne 0II9, tad per^ petrated the bafe z&ion of the ^^ight^ could ought avail ;. the monfter add^^ paurder t^ rape ; and the wretched flave was tied up^ ^nd whipped fo unmercifully and incellantly, th^t he expired in a few minutes* As this man was a gentleman of raoki find one of the particular minioms cf tb^ govcrnoft the matter was never enquired inlt)^ and all reports concerqing it were fmothered as much as poffible. . A kind of provincial court is likewife eftablifhed here, coniifting in part of the Cofiipany's fervaftts, &nd in part of the hciads of fome negrtfe$, of whom the rofaAt of Nouffmivel and Snya art the firft^ aAd follow in rank upon the member» of the council of polity é^ The governor likcwilc convokes from time to time an aflembly of the nativo chiefs, in which he makes fuch orders pub<- lic as he may have received fironi the go- vernment at Batavia^ or .which he may think neceflary, and eommands them to fee therti* executed ; for example, when a cer- tain number of clove*trees are to be planted #r deflrbyed, and other iimikur «aatte»^ c c a Befides Digitized by Google C 388 3 Belidcs thcfe^ there ai*é an orphafl-chatn- bèr, a court of aflïgnces for bankrupt or in* teftate eftatês, a board of controul over mar* riageSy and a court of common pleas. The number of clergymen belonging ta this government, is, I believe, when com- plete, fii^, viz. four at the chief fcttlemcnt tftd fort óf New FiBma^ QTit sit Hila; SLnd one at Sipoura ; but 'when I was there, there was but one, the others being gone on a church* vifitation to Banda^ and the fbuth* weftern iflands belonging to that govern- ment. - He that remained had been for a long time a journeyman -bricklayer in the province of Gildepldnd\ but this triade not fucceeding to his4iking» he went out, in the year Ï769, as kfènkhezoeker + to India ; and, together with feveral others, he was fent back to Holland, at the expcnce of Governor van * On looking iato the meiDoriai of Governor Mossbx., rcfpeéling the general flate of India, of the joth November, 1753, I perceive thif the number of clergymen, in thepfx>* vince of jSmhtffiUt^ was then fettled 91 three. S. f KrankhpiMker .is perfeélly fynonimous with ftiekantrw^ter^ for an cxpianatioa of whicb term fee the note to page jxs» of the firft volume ; the former is literally a vifi^r ^ the ficky 9s PER Digitized by Google C 389 ï iiER Parra, to be fitted for taking orders, and.be had returned the preceding year as a. <}aalified divine, and had (hortly afjterwards been (ent to Amboyna^ where thej'e was Uttlc likelihood of his evangelical miilion being remarkably exenjplary, or fuc^efsful. As this perfon did not underftaud the Malay language, and had alfo very little in* clination to attain it, the divine fervice at prefent adminiftered in the Malay church, was confined to the reading of a fermou^ written in that language, which was ef&£ted hy a krankbezoekevy who performed the office of ^clerk, and who was, as the abovemen- tinned clergyman was pleafed to fdy, when be had been fparceiy a day pr two ^X. Am^ boyna^ the only religious man on th^ il)and« However uncharitable and rafli the cxpref» iion of this opinion was, it is^ however, a faö, thaf I niet with very few people here who had a tolerable knowledge of the doc^ trines of tb? rcforped religion, or tyen of the moral duties prelbribed by it. There is a very confiderable number of nominal chriftians, and who have received baptifm, as well on the pcninfulas of Leyti-, fnor^ as at other places. By an annotation C C 3 in Digitized by Google r 3fo ) in a rèiblution of the council of polity at AmbayM^ of th« iith of March, 1774, it appeared, that the reverend Mr. vah Eik- B«uo found, on a church* vifitation' (which b? had, however, by Ibme obflacles, been prevented from completing), in a pert only of the places belonging to this government, the number of 21,124 nominal chriftians, but only 843 church-members. The fuperftitious refped which theic no* ininal chriftians pay to our clergymen. and a few outward figns of religion, are the principal marks by which they are diftiq^ guiftied from the reft of their countrymen. Beiides the regular clergy, there are kran-i bezoekers J and likewife ftattonary and itiner* ant fchoolmafters, who are all paid by the Company, and inflru6l the children of tht Digitized by Google [ 392 ] not an uncommon whet in a morning at Amboyna ; and on fetting down to dinner, a glafs of fpirits is the? firft thing prefentcd to the gucfts, to ftrengthen the flomach, and raife an appetite». I found little pleafure or fbciability here ; which, I was told, was to be afcribed to the late governor, whofe diftruftful temper made him look upon all focial meetings with jca- louiy ; this did not feetn improbable to me, as I foiind that a fhort time before he left the . jfland, and when he was not an objeft of ap- ^prehenfion or hope, as before» both focial in- t^rcoUrfe, and innocent gaiety, became daily more prevalent^ which afforded much fatif*- faftion to the new governor. . The common Europeans, both foldiers -and mechanics, have very little opportunity ' of earning any nrjoney here» and their pay j^fiprds them little ?lfe than fago, and at mpft rice, with a little fifh, for food, and water, y&j^^iW, or arrack, for drink. The ibidiers make a very Ihabby appearance i ^heir unj^rm \% made of blue linen, and Jiangs in tatters ^bout them ; without (hoes pr ftocking^ ; excepting, indeed, the body- ^^fne of them arc paved. Of the public buildings, the Dutch and Malay churches were both much damaged and nearly deftro^ed by the violent earth- quake of the year 1755, the former in or through the town, or the adjacent negrees, are, the Bato géidja, or Ekpbanf^ river ; the IFé^ totnoM Digitized by Google [ 399 I #^iw, which mils between thc.town^to the StVr« aod the hogrtcSiScya ssxd Mam/iiiaf to the M.B.; the fFay mtoc^ which divides the jacgrec of Jtabng ia two ; aiid the Way 4itkt^ which rufis between thb laft and the MoorHh negree. The three firft have their fixirce in the nimoteins of S^ya,. and the kil defcends chiefly from ihi^.Roadatberg. . I have before obfcrved that thcic rivers, in the good mönfoons, or dry feaibns, can only be looked upon as little rivulets» moift- emng but a fmall part of their beds; but that in the had numfoons» or rainy fca-* fonsy they fwell up to a con£derab]e height, and run with fuch force and rapidity^ upon the rain continuing any time, that they carry away all before them, and even the bridges which are built over them. Juft above the town,, upon the Bato gad^^^ . a garden has been laid out, atul a good houfe built, by Governor van dee Stel, at the expence of the Compq^y, which very much refembles that called Vergleegen^ which his brother, when governor at the Cape ofQoo4 Hope 9 made. in Hottentot Holland^ alfo at the expence Digitized by Google expeiicc of the Company. 'This is thfc oiily garden of confideration that I iaw at Am^ ioj^na, though there arc, hdrc and there, a few others, which are called gardens, but which folely confift of a wood of fago^trees, and a plantation of cocoanut^rees ; that, however, of Hative excepted, which at pre- fent belongs to the engineer Van Wag iocs, and which may be called a handfome piece of ground ior AmBoyna. As the keeping of the firftmentioned gar- den was a confiderable annual expence to the Company, the government ^t- Batavia thought fit, in the year 1769, to transfer the feme to the governor for the time be- ing, for a certain fiim of money, for which his fucceflbr is obl^ed> in his turn, to take it ovci- : Mr* van der V—— paid, if I am not miftaken, two thoufand rixdoUars * for . it, to the Company. Near it is a mciiagery,in which are kept, among others, fome very beautiful fpeckled deer. The governors generally refide at this place, when there is nothing to call for their * About 4,400/. flcrliog. ' T. prefence Digitized by Google f 401 3 prclence at the town, or when there arc no fhip^s ill the bky. The chief, if not the only fortrefs, which the Company have at Amboyndj is the caftlc or fort ; which, after it was rebuilt, was called New ViSlorifly as the old fort called VtBoriuy \which had been ereded "by the Portuguefe, being Sn oblong Iquare, with four baftions, was fo much damaged by the earthquake of the year 1755, that it was thought more eligible to build an entire new fort, than to repair the old one. It (lands clofe to the waterfide, a little to the weft of the mouth of thq Way NitoCy and exaöly oppofite to the road, where ihips commonly lie at anchor. I took much pains to procure a plan of it, but the ftriél integrity of the prefent a6ling engineer, Mr. H. E. von Wagner, was proof againft the felicitations of friendfhip, and however much, in other things, he proved both willing and anxious to give me every teftimony of his inclination to nender me fervice, I could not, in this in- ftance, perfuade him to lend me a plan of the fort for ever fo (hort a time, in order to take a copy of it ; I cannot therefore fay VOL. II. D D any Digitized by Google . [ 402 ] any thing rerpe6Hi>g the dimenfions of the works, and (hall only defcribe the general appearance of the fort. Its (hape is very irregular ; on the land- fide, it has three entire and one denai- baftion, which, with their curtains, form part of a regular heptagon : on the watcr- fide, there are two baftions, in the curtain between which ftands the Watergate, in the fame manner, as the landgate open between the two oppofite baftions, on the land fide. The curtain, or battery, which runs north from the eafternmoft land-baftioin, is met by a fimilar one coming from the eaftern- moft fea-baftion, making an obtufe angle of between 90^ and loo*', fo that the line of defence of the face of the eafternmoft land-baftion runs exaftly upon this angle ; and the flanks of thefe baftions are there- fore without defence, which is an unpar- donable fault in the firft'conftruaion of the fort, as the nature of the ground did not require this irregular mode of fortification : Mr, VON Wagner intended to remedy this fault, as much as pofliblc, by making a de- tached baftion before the angle made by th^ - two Digitized by Google [ 403 3 two batteries, by which thefe two flanks would be defended. From the demi-baftion, on the weft fide, a battery runs northward, and being met by another coming from the wefteriimoft fea-baftion, they form together an inverted obtufe angle. The fea-baftions, which are liable to be attacked by the greateft force, are carried up fbmewhat higher, and are rather larger than the others ; they are covered with bonnets in the middle of their faces, in or- der to be the better provided againft an en- filade. A hornwork extends before thefe baftions, and covers the curtain between thetn ; its projeöing angles command the fhore both above and below the caftle, by which a land- ing any where near it is rendered very dif- ficult, if not impoffible. All thefe works are built of brick, for which purpofe many brickkilns have beea fcreded^ here, where very good bricks arc made. They were then about making a covered- way, to begin from the flank of the wcft^rn D D 2 jG:a- Digitized by Google [ 404 ] iêa*baftiön, and to run round the fortrcfi to the other fide of the eaflern iea-baflion. The whole is encircled by a wet ditch, which is the fame that fornlerly run round the outworks of the old fort. This is certainly the heft fortification be- longing to the Company, that I have feen, in India. Yet it is, by no means, favour- ably fituated, on account of the near neigh- bourhood of the Roodenberg^ and the low- nefe of its fcite, by which, in my opinion, it would not be able to make any long or efiedual refinance, if the enemy were once landed, and could get their artillery on fiiore, fo as to ereA batteries on the furrounding heights. The fame defcft «xurs likcwife on the fide that looks towards the bay ; for Oiips, if properly moored, can enfilade moft \>f the lines of defence, at high water ; the water rifing here, in fpring tides, fuJl ten feet; and the hornwork, which is full one-half lower than the main body of the place^ i^ confequcntly ftill more expofed. I purpofcly add the fuppofition that the Ihips be properly moored ; for x\kc greateft • 'ftrength Digitized by Google [ 405 3 ftrcngth of the place refts upon the im- prafticability of bringing Ihips to attack it in a proper fit nation. As there is no an<- choring-ground except cloie lo the ihorc, the fhips are expofed to the fire of forty or fifty pieces of heavy artillery long before they are able to let go their anchors, and put iprings upon their cables, in order to haul the vefTels round ; and all this is not fo eafily done under fuch a fire, if the ar» tillery upon the batteries be but well fcrved. The nature of the bay too, the prevail- ing winds which blow here, and the calms which are not unfrequent, together with the ftrong currents fetting continually in and out of the bay, are formidable obfta« cles to prevent fhips from forming their attack, whilft under fail, and much more from making good a landing here ; for which reafon a landing mufl be attempted at a more convenient place, which might perhaps be found, either in the bight near . Hamahoeft^ or jn the Portuguefe bay. And, although the old fort of ViSloria is not to be compared, in point of flrength, to the prefcnt one, I do not believe that our people would ever have fucceeded, in the D D 3 year Digitized by Google [ 406 ] year 1 605, in getting polTeffion of Amboynay or rather of the peninfula of Leytimory at- tacking it, at leail, as they did, at this place, had the Portuguefe defended this fettlement with the fame bravery as they did their other poflcflions, and not given it up in fo cow- ardly a ftianner. There is another great defcft, at leaft it appeared in that light to me, namely, the great extent of the fort. It is fo large, that if all the works were to be properly man- ned, all the military to be found here, w©uld Icarcely be fufficient to defend one half of them. Moreover, no lefs than a hundred pieces of cannon are requifite to provide all the batteries as they ought to be, and there are no more than fifty or fixty cannoneers in the whole province. In order to fortify the bay ftill more, the engineer, Von Wagner, has propofed to ereiSl two new batteries, viz. one, a (hort mile fouthweft of Vi^oria, at the mouth of the Elephants-nvtVy to command the part of the bay, called the VrymanSy ox free mer- chants' road, and to be able to rake the (hips which may lie to the weftward of the caftle J and another upon the point of the Digitized by Google [ 407 ] Laha^ for which all fhips coming up the bay muft ftecr in a ftrait direélion, in order to keep clofe in with the windward ihdre ; which propofal has met with the approba^ tion of the fupreme government at Batavia. Perhaps another battery near or upon the point of Alang^ would be of ftill greater utility, for fhips entering the bay muft equally fteer ftrait for, and very clofe along, it, in order not to be in danger of being driven to leeward of the bay, by the cur- rents. I did not fee any of the other little forts which the Company have at Hikj Sapoura^ Harouio, and Larike ; but, according to the information I received refpeóling them, they are of little confequence, and at moft ftrong enough to keep the natives in awe*. The * The other forts in this province, are : upon the ifland of Amhvyua, Fort Amftcrdam^ which mounts fixteen guns, Ét HUa; Fort Ruterdam^ at Larile; iberedoubiMiJtiUhirgf at the Pqfi rf Baguewala ; and a fmall triangular fort near Otrkn^ called Flujbing: upon Bmrê^ the pallifadoed fort Drfence, mounting fourteen iron guns; upon Manipa^ the redoubt Wanirwv), or Diftruft^ of the fame force ; upon BoenMunoehil^ Fort Hardenherg at Camlelh^ and Fort Ovtrhurg at Loehoe ^ upon Hwjj^laut^ a fmali redoubt of four guns, called Beve^^ ^jck i upon Emmoa^ the redoubt Felfen^ having £ve guns^ at p D 4 the Digitized by Google C 408 ] The buildings within the Fort of New ViS9ria are not yet all finiflied ; there are, however, already two powder-magazines, the rice and ipice*warehoufes, the naval ilprehoufe, the provifion - warehoufe, the dwelUnghoufe of the comptroller of equip- ment, and the guardhoufe at the landgate ; but no beginning has yet been made with the government-houfe, or the dwellings for the fenior merchant, and the captam com- mandant of the military 1 the Watergate is likewife not entirely completed. Mr. VAN DER V—— told me, that the ereétion of this fortrefs had already coft the Company two millions of gilders*; but the engineer, Von Wagner, ftated the ex- pence of it coiifiderably lower. the point of Tefawarot) the redoubt Dei/t, of fix guns, at Po fo, aod Fort Duurjiecde at Sapwra ; and upon Oma^ Fort Zetlamiia at Harou.lo, The capture of Amhqyna and Banda by the Eng- Hih, will afford opportunities to us of becoming fvX\y ac- quainted with every particular refpc<^ing tliofe remote but Ijaluablc and intcrcfting fettlements. it is to be hoped that fomc of the gentlemen of .the navy or army who went upon thfkt expedition, will favour the public with an account of thefe acquifitions ; men of genius and obfervation are not wanting cither among our naval or military officers, and a narrative of the expedition alluded to, may not only be faid to be delired, but alfo to be expefted, from fome of thcrr. T. * About X 81, floo/. fterling.' T. GHAP. X Digitized by Google C 409 ] CHAPTER VIL The Clove-irade.-^^Endeavours of the Dutch to re- tain it exclufively to themfelves.—/lttemfts of tbi Englijb to participate in it. — Garrifons and Efta^ bliftment at Ambotka. — Profits and Charges of this Province. — RefieSlions on the Clove-trade. — Large Stack of Cloves. -^Endiovoured to be Jimi^ nijhed èy J^tirpaiions ; and by burning great ^antities.r^The Hongitogt, or yearly Expedition of the Governor round Ceram^ i^c.-^EarthqieolU at Ambotka. X H£ chief, if not the fble, advantage derived to the Company from the poiTeiSon of Amhoyna and its dependencies, is the col-^ lection of cloves, and the maftery of this article to the exclufion of all other naiious^ by which they are enabled, at pleafure, to raife, or lower, the price. This gave rife, at an early period, after the conqueft of the ifland, to much jealoufy and animofity between the Dutch and the Engli(h, and thefe difputes did not terminate with the expulfioh of the latter from the ifland. Digitized by VjOOQIC [ 4IO 1 ifland» but were made a \prctence, manj years afterwards, for declaring war againft the republic: they were not finally fettled till the conclufion of the peace of Breda^ in the year 1667. The Company would not, however, ever have fucceeded in fccuring to themfelves the exclufivc trade in this fpice, which is fpon- taneoufly produced in all the adjacent M(h- lucca iflands> had they not endeavoured wholly to transfer, and confine, the cultiva- tion of it to Amboyna ; partly by fubduing the princes of thofc iflands by force of arms, and prefcribing to them fuch conditions of peace as they found convenient, the princi- pal of which had relation to the clove-trade, clpecially with refpeft to the kings of 7Vr- natey Tidore^ Machian^ and Bacbian^ com- pelling them not to fell any of the cloves, produced in their dominions, to any other nation ; and partly, by forcing them, about the middle of the laft century, to deftroy all theclove-tiees, which grew in their territo- ries, for which they were to receive an equivalent in money. In the fame manner, the Company have catered into a contrad with the king of Boutoriy Digitized by VjOOQIC [ 411 3 Bouten^ to whofe dominion many places be- long, which yield fpices, that he Ihall not only allow the extirpator, whom they dif- patch every year on an expedition throiflgh the iflands, to perform the fervice on which he is fent, but Ihall alfb afford him every af&ftance in doing it. , Yet, notwithftanding all this, and how faf foeyer they may be able to extend their ex- tirpations in the circumjacent countries, thejr will never be able wholly to prevent other nations from procuring fpices without their intermediation. There are too many iflands, and too widely difperfed, that produce thefe commodities, of which neither they, nor their allies, are in poffeffion, or poffibly can be, without entirely exhaufting themfelves by the ereöion of numerous fortreffes, which are indifpenfably neceflary, if all intercourfe with foreign nations muft be prevented** Thus * However affiduous the Dutch are in the deöruöion of fpicc-trees, they never have, or can, fucceed in extirpating them all. It is only in places of eafy accefs, and near the fea, that they are generally cut down, but they grow abundantly in many retired fpots of the large and woody ifland of Cikk, in the recefles of Ceram^ upon Ouhy^ Mjfil, in the forefts of BacbUu, as well as upon Cad^epan^ and many other iflands, where \ Digitized by Google I. *^* ] Thus the Englifli formed a fcttlemetit feme years ago upon the ifland Xullock^ lying north of the Moluccas ; but as the in- different quality of the fqil^ and other cir- cumftances, did not anfwer their purpofes ia forming fuch an eftabliihmcnt, they changed it for Balambangan^ an ifland on the north-^ caft coaft of Borneo^ in order to lay the foun- dation there for a place of trade, whither the clandeftine dealers in fpice might bring their goods, and thus furnifh our rivals with the arti- cles out of which we endeavour to keep them, where tliey arc inacceflible to the de(h-u<5livc ax of the extir- pator; and what is actually 'defrroyed, is not, perhaps, the hun* dredth part of the trees producing the precious fpices. The parties fent out on fuch bufinefs, generally confid of a military oificer, or fome civil fervant belonging to the Dutch, with three or four European attendants» and perhaps twenty or thirty Bugguefs foldiers, with their officer. They generally make it a party of pleafure ; and the Bugguefs officer (while the chief is regaling himfelf in the heat of the day) fets off to the woods with fome of his men, where he executes hu commiffion juft «s it fuits his convenience ; taking care to bring back plenty of branches, to ihew his afliduity, when, perhaps, they are all from one tree. Sometimes a ferjeant at an outpofl, to get inio favour with his chief, fends an account of his having dif- covered^ on a certain fpot, a parcel of fpice -trees 5 with news, perhaps, at the fame time, that he has djeftroyed them all: poffibly the chiefs domeftics might inform him of many more fuch fpots at hand, but they are too wife to fay much on fo delicate a fubjeft. T. The Digitized by Google [ 413 ] The garrifons which the Company keep in this province, were fixed, in the year 1752, at nine hundred n>en, including the ieamen and the penniAs. His excellency. Governor Mossel, fays, in his further me- morial, written in the year 1753, that this number js fufficient, finge Amboyna has nothing to fear from an European enemy*. By that memorial, the profits which ac- crue annually to the Company upon the fale of goods, are eftimated at forty thoufand gil- ders; the proceeds of the rent of lands, ex- cife duties, a duty of five per cent upon the fale of real property, the ftamp duties, and the produce of the permits granted for the importation and exportation of private mer- chandize, are computed to be thirty thoufand gilders; and all the receipt?. arc, confequently, taken at feventy thoufand gilders; which fum, by a further memorial of economy, was reduced to fixty-fix thoufand gilders: and even this latter fum is not now drawn * la 1776-1777, the whole eflabliiliiiient at Amh^yna con- fided af fifty-two in civil employments, three clergymen, ^eaty-eight fui]geons and affiAants, forty-fix beloning to the artillery, 1 74 feamen and marines, 657 foldierst and x 1 1 me- chanics, in aU 1071 Europeans; befides fifty-nine- natives in the Company's fcrvice» T* from Digitized by Google C 414 ] from thofe objeds ; (ixty or iêventy bales of coarfc pieccgoods, which are annually dit- pofed of here at aa advance of from fcvcnty to eighty per cent, the good vent whereof likewife depends much upon the fuccefs or failure of the crop of cloves, do not fuffice, with the other revenues, to make up that amount. , According to the abovementioned memo- rial of Governor Mossel, the aimual charges of this government ought not to exceed one hundred and eighty-five thoufand gilders, m order that the defalcation on the four eaftcrn provinces (hould not be more than four hiin* dred thoufand gilders a year ; but, by the lateft memorial, the charges of Amboyna were ilated at ƒ.176,518. o. 0| and, in the fivQ laft years, they have averaged yearly ƒ265,549. 10. n, fo that they adually amount to ƒ.89,03 1. 10. 11 every year, more than Mossel flated them at^. thefe, * The calcuhtions of General Mossbl of the revenues and charges of the feveral eüablilbments of the Dutch Eaft-India Company^ are always particularly mentioned in this work, and contrafted with the actual amounts of each in the year 1779 (that is, from the id of September, i??^* ^o ^^ 3^^ of Auguft, 1779}» that year being in the books óf the Company Digitized by Google [ 415 ] Thcfe, as well as the charges of the go- vernment of Macajfer and Ternate^ muft be defrayed out of the profits upon the cloves, nutmegs, and mace» which muil, likewiiè, contribute towards making good the ex- pences of the Company at Batavia and at home ; but can any favourable expqdlations of future advantage be entertained on this head, when we confider the great decrcafc which is experienced in the fale of the firfl: named fpice? Three millions of pounds re- maining ftill in the warehoufes at Batavia, one which they call bet hoekjaaVi or year in which a general review is taken of all their concerns, as is done tYtry ten years; becaufe the calculations of that gentleman have not only formed the bafis upon which the revenues and charges of each fettlement, as flated in the famous IBftoire Pbilofopbique a Pditiqut of Abbé Rayval, have been computed, but have alfo obtained a great and almofl declfive authority in eftabfifh-* ing the advantages or difadvantages reaped by the Dutch from their Indian pofleflions. In the courfe of this work, they fre- quently appear to be coniiderably different from the aélual amount of the receipts and expenditure, and are, in fad, rather calculations of what thefe ought to be, than what they really are. In 1779, ^^^ charges of Amboyna were ƒ.201,082 ; and the whole of the revenues, mcluding the profits upon the fale of goods ijoNt per cent on the fale being allowed to the governor and fecond, two«tiiirds to the former, and one-third to the latter), amounted to no more than /•48,747, leaving a balance againil the Company of /•i5ft,33j| or about i),8jo/,' fterling. T. of Digitized by Google i 4i6 J of which no tnorc than one^fiftccnth part can be annually difpofcd of in the Indies, together with a ftock on hand in Holland, large enough to fupply the confumption of Europe for the fpace of ten years, and the quantities of cloves that from time to time are committed to the flanks by the Com- pany, in order to leflen their fuperabundant ftock, form proofs enough of the decreafe of the clove-trade, and do not require further animadverfion than the bare mention of them*. On * Every clove- free is calculated to produce annually, upon an average, two^ or two and a half, pk>unds of cloves, fo that the yearly crop is at leaft one million pounds per annum from the joo^ooo clove-trees allowed to be cultivated ; much larger crops are frequently made, though in fome years they fall ma- terially {hort, and yield but a trifling quantity. One of the largeil fales of cloves made in Holland, was in the year 1714, when 435,427 pounds were fold; in 1758, no more than »oo,ooo pounds were fold; in 1778, 234,271 pounds; and in 1788, 400,000 pounds; and about 150,000, or 200,000 pounds are annually difpofed of in the Indies. The quantities of cloves always remaining over in the hands of the Company, notwithftanding their continual extirpations, mud, therefore, be immenfe ; they endeavour to moderate this fuperfluity by burning large quantities of fj)ices from time to time ; Sir Wil- li am Temflb fays, in his Obfcrvations upon Hollaqd, that a Piitchfnan, who had been at the Spice-iflands, told him, that be faw, at one time, three heaps of nutmegs burnt, each of which Digitized by Google t 4'7 ] On a fuperficial view, when wc are told that every pound of cloves only ftands the Company in 4^ ftivers, the mace in 9^ fti- vers, and the nutmegs about half as cheap as the cloves, it ihould feem that the Spice- iflands which was more than an ordinaiy church could hold; in 1760, M. Bbavmarb faw at Amjttrdam^ near the admiralty, a fire of fpices, the fuel oï which wai valued at x>ooo,ooo of livres, and as much was to be burnt on the day following • the tranilator of this work has himielf been witnefs to the burning of large quantities of cloyes, nutmegs, and cinnamon» upon the little ifland of Newland^ near MiidUhurgh^ in Zea^ land^ the aromatic fcent whereof perfumed the air for many miles around. Although the Dutch have thus^ by all the means in their power, endeavoured to counteract the indul« geal bounty of heaven, they have not, in any inüance, attained their object; for, exclufive of the impoffibiiity of preventing the fpontaneous production of fpices in the extenfive woods of hundreds of iflands, of which they fcarcely know the names or fituation^ and the conftant ckmdeftine trade carried on in fpices» by the Fapuas, Cerammers, Bouginefe, and Chinefe^ the confiimption of, and demands for, cloves, have fo much decreafed, that the monopoly is no more worth the expeaces of retaining it exclufively ; and in regard to nutmegs, they have been the dupes of their own avarice ; for, confining as much as pofiible, the cultivation of that fpice to the idands of Banda^ it was nearly annihilated there in the year 1778, by a violent hurricaoe and earthquake, and few fupplies of con- fideration, have been obtained for feveral years afterwards. When Admiral Rainxbk took poifeilion of Ambo^ftia^ in 1 796, be found, in the treafury, 81,112 rixdolbrs, and in (lore S 1 5,940/3. of clovetf The unportatiods into England, by the vox.» II. fi E Eaft- Digitized by LjOOQIC [ 4i8 ] iflands ajfFord' an Inexhauftible fource of riches, fince the felling price exceeds the coft in fo uncommon a degree ; but if we go farther, and confider that thefe three articles of trade muft bear the whole ex- pence of all the four eaftern provinces, to which muft be added the charges of feven or eight fhips, employed in fetching them, it will be found that they, in fad, coft very dear.* The great fuperfluity of cloves has, in- deed, been endeavoured to be prevented by diminiftiing the number of clove-trees^ from Eaft-Tnditf' Company, fince the capture of the Spice-HIaads, till the prefent time (Odober, 1798), have been as follows: cloves, 8 1 7,3 1 2 pounds. nutmegs, 93,73a do. mace, 46,730 do. befides confiderable quantitiet of each in prirate tnde and pn« vilege goods, namely, ^ao cafts } ^*°^"» weighing, we fuppofc, about jo^ooo». 81 cafes 1 76cafks > nutmegs, do» 36^000 . ap chefts} 7 boxes 1 12 cafes ( 1 167 bail<'. f ™^^» ^^^ *40,ooa ii3iche(lsj r. * Sec Secreete iedenkingen ever den waaren^aat der Neder^^ landfche Cmpagnie^ by j, MossBj., Scftions liii. and liv. B. time Digitized by Google I 419 ] time to time, by extirpations; but by this means the Company ruin their Amboynefe fubjefts; and if fortune fhould ever again favour them, and the vent of this article be again as large as heretofore, they would find that they were pofTefled of the foil for pro- ducing them, but not of clove-trees, which require more years to arrive at maturity, than moments to be deftroyed. I ihould now have to make fome mention of the bongitogty or yearly expedition of the governor of Amboyna^ with a fleet oï corro- corroSi round Ceranty and the neighbouring iflands, if Valentyn had not fo amply related every particular of it, that I can only add, that it did not take place during the time I was at Amboyna^ the month of Odto- ber being the period appointed for it.^ ^ ' Between * The hongi^ or fleet of anmed corroeerros of Amhoyna^ was inftiluted by Governor Houtman, in the beginning of the feventeenth century. In the month of Oftobcr, the- faïrcft fcafon of the year, they aflembie in the bay of Amhoyna ; all the different rajsbs, and orancays^ are then bound to appear with their cwrocorrosj in order to accompany the governor in this annual expedition round the iflands under hit jurif- didion. It is undertaken for the purpofc of examining in-» to, and deciding upon, all difputes that may arife among if ? » the Diaitized bv V GooqIc . [ 4iö 1 Between the i8th and 19th of April, we felt here an earthquake, which laftcd fuU the Indians that are fubjcél to the Company ; of preventing . and difcovcring all illicit trade ; and of dcftroying fuch fpice- trees as are found growing in places where they are not al» lowed: one chief purpofe, however, is, that numbers of the common people, who are obliged, by their tenure, to fcrve the Company during one month in the year, are by this means taken away from the collection of the crop of cloves which hV» in about this time, and which is, in confequence, much lefTened for want of hands, it being, as we have before feen, a great obje<^ of policy in the Company to prevent a too abundant fupply. They are obliged to maintain themfelves during this expedition, which lafts five or fix weeks, except that the Company allow each man one and a half, or two pounds of rice per day ; and to the orangcayu, when they fet out, three gallons of arrack, twelve pounds of pork, or beef, and a meafure of rice. This expedition has, at different times, been negleéted ; but the annual performance of it has been frequently enjoined by the government at Batavia^ and in particular in the years x68o» 1688, and 1693, when the coafis of dram were greatly infefted by the incurfions of the>Papuas. The/Zd/f^i-fieet generally confifls of forty, fifty, or fixty rdTeb; when complete^ itfhould confiflof fixty «one rflrroc«nW| viz. 6 from the ifiand of Oma 3 from the coaft of-Ceram, under Oma 4 from the ifiand Manila 14 from the diflriél of Foit FiéhrOy upon Anhynm 6 from the peninfula of IStoe 1 from the coaft of Ceram^ under IStoe , 8 from the ifiand lAnimoa 3 from the iiland }^9ujfa4aut , ^ 8 from Digitized by Google [ 421 ] full five minutes. The dull rumbling noife that accompanied it, and the undulating motion, S from the ifland Ceram 3 from the diftri^ of Larike and s from the iflaad of B^rQ 6i If any village is unable to join the fleet with their np- pointed ctrroc^nos^ or is excufed from the fervice by the go* vemor, they muft. burn a kiln of lime for the Coitjpany ; andif they wilfully ncglcft it, they arc fubjeft to arbitrary punifhmeot. The governor ufed formerly to carry his flag on the f§rroc9rr9 of the rajah of '^9ujjam*vtl^ bgt the rajah of Tiisway has now that privilege ; this Cêrrocerro is one of four gnoifyos^ or rankt of paddlers, and is provided with two or three handfome apartments for the accommodation of the governor, who is attended by a guard of fifty or (ixty foldiers. The fleet is divided into three divifions, the firfl being all €orroc9rr9s of Chriflian chiefs, the fecond of Mahomedans, and the third partly of ChrifUans and partly of Pagan chiefs. In order to give an idea of the force of fuch a fleet, we fub- join a ftatement, from Vaientyn, of that which went on the I^Mgi e;cpedition of the year 1706, under Governor van deh Stel ; it confifled of fifty-fix ccrrocorros^ namely, Seven pf four gnadjw^ or banks of paddlers (quadrirewui), i$rr9- manDed with aimed «nth nrro^ inan(^ed with armed with paddlen. other fwi- muf- paddlers. other fwl- muf- men. vela. que. meo. vclt. que- toom. tooas. I 77 H a I I 64 20 O 15 Ï 71 36 I 5 I 60 ao a O I 67 36 o a I 60 16 a a I 64 . 23 o o E ¥ 3 <9n^'' Digitized by Google [ 422 ] motion, feemed to run in a diredion from s.w. to N.E. The thermometers did not Forty-nine of thictgnadjos (trirtnut). atrt- manned inth innedtrith cêrro' manned with umedinh nrru. J II ft. ^^ ' - 1 1*1. m ■% corrof. /-^««A. — ^ r — ^'^ % paddlen. other fwi- muf- paddlen. other fwi. nnf. men. ▼els. t que. toon». nwn- vels. que- toons. I 95 18 I 2 1 55 16 4 1 70 30 3 3 1 55 12 I 1 70 20 I ] 55 10 I T 70 12 I ] t 54 22 I 70 10 I I ] I, 54 7 I 65 *5 2 ] ■ 53 18 2 3 ' 65 21 I I ] ' 5J 18 I I , 3 <5» 20 4 ] I 5S 10 2 Z « 61 24 J. ] ' S3 10 I z S tfl 16 I I J t 50 *5 I 4 I 60 20 % 3 ^ « 50 20 I 3 s 60 20 % 2 1 I 50 20 2 I 60 20 I 3 ' 50 20 X 60 10 I I ' 50 20 I 60 10 X • 50 13 5 3 <5o 10 I ' 50 13 » 59 15 t 50 10 » 58 26 2 z I 48' 16 I t 58 20 « 47 ^5 z z 3 58 '5 I 6 I 44 x8 Z 2 I 58 12 4 I 38 i6 » % X 5Ö »4 I I 38 7 I 3 55 22 2 2 I 31 10 z I 55 » SS 20 20. 2 2 1 87 8 z z ^ T. Total J 6 3182 978 59 89 undergo Digitized by Google undergo any change before, during, or af- ter the (hock. The air was clear, and tbg w^eather was dead calm. The water in the bay was alfo much agitated: my (hip, which lay, at that time, at the pierhead, received a . very violent fliock, being impelled forwards, and driven back again, with great force. The northeaft wall of the ncwly-ereftcd rice-warehoufe in the caftle was rent, by this earthquake, in an horizontal diredion, juft below where the rafters were infcrted that fupport the roof, forty feet in length ; and a fummerhoufe made of bamboos, clofely covered with fhrubbery, which flood behind my houfe, was thrown down; befides which, no damage was found to have been done any where. E E 4 CHAP- Digitized by Google I 424 ] CHAPTER VUL Departure from Amboyna. — View of the J^Mi Amblauw. — Of the IJlands cfSr. Matthew. Cytó^ToirCAN-BESSlS. CyCADOEPAN, Of BouTON. — ö/Cabyne andl^\zKKT>-Ifl^d. — CySALEYER. — Celebes. — Pajfage of the Bud- Gnxoo-A^r^The Ifland Tanakeke.-— ^^Sm; ^ the ToNYMs, or Tunny glands. — Of Great SotoMBo. — Cy Madura. — ^Mandeli^Jte. — Anchorage off Japara. — Navigation along the Coaft of Java, — Anchorage in the Road of Ba- tavia. — Objervations refpcBing the Navigation to Amboyna.— Gr^tf/ Inaccuracy of the Cbarth — Strong Currents. — Calms. ^FT£R my (hip had been unladen» and had taken in a new cargo, we left the road ; we were the whole of that day, and the following night, in working down the bay, keeping always on the windward fide, which was the fhore of Leytimor^ as, on entering, it had been that of Hitoe. On the 9th of June, at funrife, we were breaft Digitized' by VjOO^IC C 425 ] abreaft of the Portuguefe bay, and at ten o^clock, A.M. we were out at fea. . At fUnfèt we got fight of the iflaiid Am^ èlauw^ and on the next morning, of the ifland Bouro^ abreaft of us, to n.n.e. On the I ith, in the evening, we f^w, the iflands of St. Matthew^ from the noaintop, and lay-by during the night, on accouat of . our vicinity to the Toucan-^beffis. • In the morning of the next day^ we again purfued our courie, but made but little fail, as the air was very thick, by the rain, and we had no good view, in or- der not to fall unexpeftedly upon the Tou^ can-bejjis ; at feveii o'clock, however, we fiiddenly faw them before us, about a league ahead ; we inftantly tacked and ftood offi till the weather cleared up a little, and till, at eight o'clock, we could purfiie our voyage again. We pafTcd thofc dangerous iflands, and had likewife a view of the ifland Ca-- doepan^ where it is faid that many cloves are produced ; fleering for the eaft point of Bouton, which we doubled about midnight. On the 1 3th, at funfet, we faw the ifland Cabyne and Hagediffin^ or Lizard'\{[^nA i on the morning of the next day, the ifland Digitized by Google [ 426 3 ifland Sakyer^ and two hours afterwards the coaft of Celebes^ with the little iflands the Budgeroons lying between them ; ' at ten o'clock, A.M. we paffcd this narrow ftrait in fafety, running betweea the fouthern- moft and raiddlemoft of the Budgeroons^ at the diftance of one-eighth of a league from the former. In the afternoon we founded, for the firft time, in thirty • four fathoms, flifFclay, being then abreaft of Boele^comba^ about three leagues off fliore. Sailing by the lead, during the night, along the coaft of Celebes^ we were, on the morning of the next day, by the ifland ^anakeka ; whence we ftcered our courfe {o as to pafs the Laarsy or Boot^ at a pro* per place. At noon we faw the ^onynsy or Vi'unny iflands, and at funfet the iflands of Salinas^ ht^rmg north, five leagues, found- ing continually with a line of twenty-five fathoms, without llriking ground upon the ZMars. , On the 1 6th we again ftruck foundings, which we afterwards kept. On the 17th we got fight of the ifland Great Solombo^ which we found to, be of a moderate Digitized by Google [ 427 ] moderate height, and placed too far fouth in the charts, by thirteen minutes, or three leagues and a quarter. Hence we ileered, in order to make the ifland Madura^ of which we came in fight the next day at noon. On the aoth, at funrife, we pafled Man^ deliqucy and anchored at two o'clock, p.m* in the outer road of yapara^ and fending our boat on fhore for refrefhmentsi we fc- ceived a plentiful fupply the next day from the worthy refidcnt, Mr. van der Bbke i at the fame time I received information that my fhip, Ouwerkerky was appointed, by the government of Batavia, to go a voyage to Sur at. In the afternoon we faw the point of Pamalang^ and the lofty fummit of Mount Tagal. On the 23d, the hill of Cheribon was abreafl, and the point of Indramaye nearly ahead of us ; in the afternoon we faw the Boomptjens iflands, and in the evening we reckoned that we had pafled the rock upon which the fhip called the Cajile of Woerden was lofl. The following day, in the morning, we faw ^Digitized by Google [ 42« I faw the high trees of Sedary^ and at funfct wc came to an anchor off Murderer's Point, and in fight of the ifland Edam. On the 25th, at eleven o'clock, a.m. we got, under fail, and paffing between thelitde iflands of Leyden and Enkbuizenj we fleered for the road of Batavia^ where we caft an- chor at three o'clock, p.m. Before I go any farther, I think it nc- cefiary to fay fomething refpeding the na- vigation to Amboyna^ as it is deferving of much attention, and has always been held a very dangerous voyage. There are three circumftances which often unite to make it very hazardous, and are the chief caufes of the difficulty and peril which are complained of:' Firft, the bad and inaccurate charts of this palfage, which are made ufc of ; and which are certainly extremely defeöive» notwithftanding the governor general, Mos- sel, alleges, in his further memorial, that at that time (the year 1753), the charts had been fo improved, that, for two or three years before, none of the Ihips trading to the eaft had been loft. I am therefore not at all furprized, that, before that time, ihips were Digitized by Google I 429 1 were loft every year, if they were without any other aid than that of fuch deqeitfiil guides. If I may judge from the charts which are thus pretended to be improved, and which are at prcfent given to the fliips that perform that voyage, they muft un- doubtedly have plunged many an intrepid fbaman, who had not before ploughed thefe dangerous fcas, into uncertainty and defpair, and have driven him headlong into the midft of unknown and unavoidable dangers- Thc firft and chiefeft requifite of a good fea-chart is, that in it the iflands and coafts be accurately laid down in their proper lati- tudes ; and all the charts from Java to Ambayna^ are glaringly defeftive in this par- ticular ; one ifland is placed too far north, another too far fouth, and this is occa- fioned by the obfervations, whence thefè charts have been made, not being exaét. This might be adduced as a difculpation of the hydrographer, were it not that the na* vigators of later times have conftantly noted down, and pointed out thefe defeéls in the journals of their Amboyna voyages. My obfervations agreed with three of them, which I took with me for reference, when V J went Digitized by Google t 43Ö ) I went 'to Amboyna. Yet has not all thii fufiiced to produce the removal of this hurt- ful dcfefl:; The fecond neceffary rcquifite of a chart is, that the true direftion of the coafts^ and the exa6l pofitions of the iflands, and their bearings with reipeö to the ncareft land, be duly and accurately attended to. The defeéllve ftate of the charts in queftion, in this particular too, is not a little com- plained of, and remains equally unreÖified, although many reports have been made by navigators, on the fubjed. And, la/Uy, that the refpeélive diftances be laid down as exaótty as poffible, which has, in thefe charts, been totally neglefted; of which glaring dc- fe6ls, I have, from time to time, made men- tion in my journal. t The fecond caufe of the danger and dif- ficulty of the eaftern navigation, are the currents, which fet with fo much violence between the iflands and along the cöafts of this archipelago, that if I had not experi- enced it myfelf, I fliould fcarcely credit the account : in addition to this, they have no regular courfe, and fometimes run contrary to the wind, and at i^ncertain times, m Digitized by Google [ 43' 1 Add to thefe, as a third caufe, the cairns which prevail fb much in the(ë climates, and the dangers which furround navigators in this paflage will be very manifeft ; for veflels arc driven, in dead calm weather, by the violent currents, upon unknown flioals and rocks, fo that the moft experi- enced feamcn is unable, in fuch cafes, to lave the fliip and cargo entrufted to him. It has likewife been obferved, that fuch of the Company's captains as have perform- ed feveral voyages to the eaftern provinces are, for this reafon, continued in that navi- tion, which is not difadvantageous for the intereft of the Company, but unfortunate for thofe captains, as thefe voyages afford but little profit, and they do not, in confequence, feel much attachment for the fervice of the Company. CHAP- Digitized by Google [ 43* 3 CHAPTER IX. Departure from Batavia. — l?affage to Surat.— Siffis of Land.-^Curious Species of MMufca. — Zodiacal Ugbt. — Pf^aterfnakes. — Fiew of the bigb Land of Bazaim.— Q/" Cape St. John. — Of the Pike Pisc adores. — DireSions for f ailing into the Road of Surat. — Anchorage there. 1 HAVE before faid, that the (hip Ouwer- kerk was appointed to fail to Surat ^ and as it had been refolved that two ihips fhould be fent thither this year, the fhip Overhoud^ commanded by Captain Peter Angel- OORST» was ordered to proceed to Surat^ in company with mine. All poffible expedition was ufed to get both veflels m readinefs half a mondi earlier than fhips bound on that voyage generally are, becaufc, in the preceding year, the (hip the Lady Gertrude^ that had cleared the Straits of Sunda on thf 28 th of Auguft, did not reach Surat before the beginning of December. The Digitized by Google [ 433 ] The crew of each (hip confifted of fcvcnty- eight European failors, twenty-five Moors, or Lafcars, and twenty-five native, or Bou- ginefe, foldiers, whofc military abilities al- mod extended fo far as to fire ofiFa mufquet. I had befides ten Bantammers on board, who were going on a pilgrimage to Mecca^ and took their paflage' by my fhip* 4 Thus equipped, we left the road of Bata^ via on the 4th of Auguft, (leering between the Chore of Java and the i(land Onrujl^ afterwards pafling the iflands Middelburgs De Cómhuis^ or Furnace^ and Menfcheneeters^ or Canmial'ïüSLnd, and, at funfet, we came to an anchor in fight of the idands which lie in the bay of Bantam. At daybreak, on the 7th, we weighed an* chor, and (leering for the point of Bantam^ were abread of it at noon. An hour before funfet. Captain Ang£L<» ooRST hailed me, and informed me that the loofenefs of his rigging would not allow him to carry fail any longer during the (lifFfouth- wefterly gale which we then had ; and we, therefore, came to an anchor under Geer^ truida-ï^iznA. Here, on this and the fbllówhig day, we VOL. n. F r met Digitized by Google [ 434 ] met with a regular current, changing twice in twenty-four hours, and fetting s.w. and N.E. at the rate of four to five leagues in a watch ; but the ftream fetting to the s,w, was the ftrongeft. On the next day, we could not again get under fail till towards noon, when the north- caft current had fubfided: at four o'clock, P.M. we had paflcd the iflands Dwars-in^den- wegy or Tlvwart-the^'way^ and the Brabandfcb hoedje \ and as we had determined to run into the bay of yeritte^ we endeavoured, by ply- ing to windward, as the wind was at s.w. to reach that anchoring-place ; but as the wind blew freflier every moment, I was afraid of coming to an anchor, and, therefore, kept utider weigh during the night, with very little fail. The following day, we again worked far- ther on towards Jerittey and caft anchor about a league from that place. * We remained here at anchor till the i6th of Auguft, when we took our laft obferva- tion of PrinceS'ïï[?Li\A at funfet, and lofing fight of the fame, as well as of the land of Java^ on the next day, we fteered w^s.w. according to the Company's failing-orders, tUl Digitized by Google [ 435 ] till the 24th, when being m about the lati- tude of 10^ fouth, we changed our courfe to dpe weft. On the following day, in the afternoon, having got into longitude 82** eaft from ^eneriffcj and our compafles (hewing 7** N.w. variation, we then, agreeable to the abovementioned failing-orders, ftecred due north. On the 8lh of September, we thought that we faw 'the ifland Gracta from the tops, yet we could not afcertain the reality of it, as the weather was (howery ; in order, how- ever, not to run any danger, we bore away from it in the evening ; and refuming our courfe at two o'clock in the morning, we could fee no appearance of land at daybreak. The day before, and efpecially in the evening, we had feen many birds, which confirmed us in the opinion that we were not far diftant from fome ifland. Our com- pafles then fliewed full 7** n.w. variation, and we were in 7^* fouth latitiide. On the 14th, we loft the eafterly winds,, which we had had from the commencement of the voyage, and met with wefterly gales, being i|** fouth of the line, which wepafled F F 2 on Digitized by Google ï 436 ) on the lóth, with a north wefterly variation of about 6*, ftcering n. by w. in order not to be driven upon the MaUive iflands, by the currents, which, in this time of the year, itt towards the eaft, in which dire£tion from vs thofe iflands.lay. It was a long time before we got as far as 13® north latitude. Continued calms» which had laftcd feven days, and previous thereto contrary winds, together with cur- rents fetting to the ibuth, were the obftacles which prevented the more fpeedy profecu- tion of our voyage,. On the 13th of Oftober,. we faw' fbme floating feaweed, and,, the day after, we caught a quail ; a bird, which, it is laid» is always met with on the coaft of Arabia^ The figns of land ftill continued on the following day ; and bcfides theie, we law many little round white fea-animals, of various fizes, fome being as large as a gil- der-piece*, and others very little bigger than a dubbeltje 'f. I had fome taken up * Which ji. fome what lefs in itze than a half-crowiy^ piece. T. f Or Dutch two<*penny-piece, about as. large as our fix^ pence. T. out Digitized by Google I 437 1 out of the lea, in order to take an accurate view of them. At firft, they appeared no more than inanimate marine produftions ; but having ftood ftill for fome time in bowls of water, they proved to belong to the ani- mal kingdom. That which, floating in the fea» appeared like a piece of money, was a hard, bony» round fubilancej of about one- tenth of an inch in thicknefs, yet more or lefs flexible, divided on the upper fide into three circles, the outermoft of which was of a beautiful pearl«colour, the two others were a little darker ; fine ftrokes, like rays, clofe to each other, of a brighter hue than the cir- cles^ ran from the center to the circumfer- ence, and were crofled by others^ running in a wavy direftion, but cxaélly following the circular öiape of the whole fubftance: innumerable* animalcula?, like polypi, the longeft of which was not one- fourth of an inch in length, fpread thcmfelves out from the outer edge; fome of them had two branches upon one trunk, thar fpread out like a fork, but moil were fingle. The glafs which 1 had to view thefc mollufca, was but of fmall powers, yet I perceived by it that each of the abovementioned polypi F F 3 were Digitized by Google [ 438 ] were ftudded with fcveral little iky- blue fpots, and their bodies were, Icngthwiic, in the form of a prifm, the fides of which, beiiig convex, appeared of a tranfparent blue. At the under part of this bony fub- ftance (for this creature always fwam with what has juft been defer ibed upper moft) ap- peared an infinite coUcélion of vernaicular forms, clofely intertwined together, of a.dirty white colour, and which I was not able to feparate from each other. In the middle was a little lump,' about a line in fize, of an irregular fhape, in which fbmetimes an cxpanfion and contradion were vifible, as in the heart of a live animal. When the polypi were fully expanded, the whole ap- peared very much like a paffion-flowen I was not able to keep one of thefc crea- tures alive for longer than three or four hours ; during that time many of the polypi fell off from their common parent ftock, and fank down to the bottom of the bowl, with- out the leaft appearance of life remaining in, them. The feeing of all thefe figns of land, made us fufped that we were much more to the weftward than we reckoned j and fome ob- fervations Digitized by Google [ 439 ] iervations of the longitude, taken according to the manner of M. de la Caille, con- firmed this fuppofition. On the 15th, like- wife, in the evening, at fun{ct, we faw ibmething to the northweftward, that bore much the appearance of land ; , but not find- ing any bottom with ^ line of one hundred fathoms, we attributed that appearance to the weather. It, however, afterwards ap- peared, that our conjeólures were well- founded, and that, at that time, we were not far from the coaft of Arabia Felix. On the 24th pf Oftober, I faw, for the firft time, the zodiacal light, in the morning, at half paft three o'clock, being two hours and ^ half before the fuu was to rife, The horizon was befet with clouds, to the bf^ight of 3^ to 4®, and the light appeared above them, ftanding like a cone, uppn ^ broa^ bafis, of 15^ to 20^, (hooting upvyrards, and ending in a point, about 35^ or 40^bove the horizon ; the light w^s dim, but very diftinguifhable, as it was ^heq new moon, and the night, confcquently, dark. We were then in the north latitude pf 20®. The calms, and light airs of wind, which \ve here met with, caufed us to make little F F 4 progre(^ Digitized by Google [ 440 j progrcfs in our voyage, and it was not before the 3d of November, that we ftruck found- ings in fifty fathoms. We faw many water- fnakes that day, but did not perceive the leaffc change in the colour of the water, no more than on the following day, although 'we were then fifteen or twenty leagues nearer to thé land. On the 5th of November, we let drop our anchor in twenty-four fathoms, becaufe both wind and ftream were againft usj they, howc>^er, changed in our favour that evening, by which we were again enabled to follow our routc^ On the day after, at half paft nine o'clock, A.M. we faw the high land of Bazaim^ and in the afternoon, we made Cape St. John^ from which we computed that we were fix or feven leagues diftant, ai>d tbe pike Pif^ cadores ; we alfo thought we faw the ifland Sal/m The pike Pifcadores is here, befides the latitude, the beft mark for making Cape St. John ; but it lies very far inland, and app . pears rather too fmall, on account of the diftance, foon to get fight of it : it is called the pike, on account of its Iharp fummit ; but Digitized by Google [ 441 ] but one may err here, in this refpeft, as there is a mountain, fomewhat tSore fouth- crly, fituatcd near the high land of Bazatm, which equally appears with a Ibfty fuiiimit, but this does hot lie fo for inland. The beach is very flat here, for foundings in fifty fathoms are met with, at the diftancc of forty leagues weft of Cape St. John. From that promontory to the road of Surat^ the track lies n.n.e. between the con- tinent and the fea-banks, which lie about fbven leagues off. You muft keep in the depth of fixteen and eighteen fathoms, hard clay bottom, till a little hill, which ftands at a (hort diftance to the north of the city of JDaman^ bears fouth of eaft, and you may then fteer for the land, till in ten or nine fathoms, failing afterwards along it at the diftance of one and a half, or two leagues. The land is very low, and interfperfed with trees. When you fee the tower of Sualy^ which is a lofty white monument, at the north point of the nver of Surat^ keep it N. or N. by w. and run ftrait for the road ; the fliips that lie at anchor there, are difcerned foon enough, to fteer a proper courfe towards them. Wc Digitized by Google [ 442 ] Wc anchored there on the loth of No- vember, at half paft three o'clock, p.m. after the Company's fchooner, the Toung Peter ^ had been on board of us, in the fore- noon, with the comptroller of equipment, to fetch the Company's papers. CHAP- DigitizQd by VjOOQIC i 4+3 1 CHAPTER X. Province of Guzuuat. — Decay of the Mogul Em- pire. — Situation of Surat. — The River Tapi, or Chedder. — Banks of Sand in it, — Efteemed holy by the Gentoos. — High Tides.-^The Road. — Monfoons. — Obfervadons on the Temperature of the Weather. — Experimental Proof of the Dryntfs of the Atmofphere. — Intolerable Stench in the City. — Fertility and high State of Cultivation of the fur^ rounding Country. \ HE province of Guzurat*^ in which is iituated the city of Sttrat^ was formerly an independent kingdom, although of no very * According to the memorial of Mr. Schrbudbr, the name of Gumurat fignifies propei;]y Gold-Surat^ of which Amedahab is the capital, and ^wrat the chief feaport. S. This is a fancifiil, pr rather a laughable^ derivation of au Indian proper name, from an European appellative, fome* thing like Dean Swift's fatirical etymology of Archimedes from Harl y:^ mdids^ and Alexander the Gre.it from Alt eggs under the grate. Dr. Vincent derives the name of the pro- vince of GuKurat from the Arabic gexiraj a pe^infula ; others think that it wa$ fo named from the mafs of its inhabitants toeing of the Gug^er cai'itf, cowherds. T» great Digitized by Google [ 444 I great extent; but having been conquered, in the year 1565*, by the emperor Acbar, it now conftitutes one of the weftern pro- vinces of the empire of the Great Mogul. The prefent emperor is Alem Ghier, tbc fecond of that name ; but he has no power ; as this empire^ formerly fo potent, which comprehqnded, according to the imperial re- cords, one- and- twenty extenfive provinces, two hundred and four populous cities, five ridges of mountains, and five thoufand and forty-fix pergunnahs^ or diftrifts, containing towns and villages, and the yearly cuftomaiy revenues from which, paid into the imperial treafury, amounted to 25 1,323,851 J rupees, ^ ƒ 37^99^5»772i» about three hundred and fevcnty-fcven mtilions of Dutch gilders f , has now been fb torn by internal commotions, that the Great Mogul retains only the mere name of emperor, unfupported by any real authority or power. AuRENZÊHE, who died in the year 1707, exalted the Mogul power ta the pinacle of ^lory ; but his fucceflbrs, not pofleffing his * Acecrding'to Thsvanot. S. Valemttn and ocbm t Memorial of Mr. Schrbuobk. S. abilities. Digitized by Google [ 445 ] * abilities, could not maintain it in the iplendtd Hate in which he left it to them ; and his cbildfen and grandchildren exhaufling the land by tbcir civil wars for the pofleffion of the fovereign authority, this powerful em- pire was Yhaken to its foundation by the in- vafion of the Perfian fliab, Thamas Kouli Khan, in the year 1 759, after which it never recovered its ancient fplendour. It remained always expofed to the incurfions of the fur- rounding nations. Moreover, when its fove- rcign&^became more and more effeminate, and withdrew themfelves from the aftive adminiftration of the affairs of the empire,^ the nabobs, fbubahs, and other great men, arrogated to themfelves, in a great meafure, tbe ibvereignty over thofe provinces, of which they were the delegated governors, and in which they have maintained them- felves till the prefent day, fave in thofe parts where the Englifli have introduced them- felves by force, and where the appointment and depofition of the nabobs depend upon the good- will of that nation. Thus, Ahmed Abdallah, chief, or prince, of the Patans, marched to Dehli^ in the year 1757, and took the Qxeat Mogul, Alewt Digitized by Google [ 446 ] Alem Ghier*, and all his omrahs, prifon* crs; and after having kept pofleflion of the place for fome time, and collcéled as much treafure as he could find, he fènt for the em- peror out of prifon, and placed him again upon the throne ; but this unhap|^ monarch did not long furvive his reftoration to the imperial dignity, for he was treacheroufly murdered, in the year 1795, by order of his grand vizier. Shah Abadin Chan f ; but the abovementioned prince of the F^atans, being difpleafed with the condiid of this traitor, attacked and defeated him and his allies, and placed his fon Timor, whom he had made king of Lahore in his former ex- , pedition, upon the imperial feat of Dehlu Surat lies, according to the Frencfh ob- fervations, in 21^ 10' north latitude, which differs about 6' from our feveral times re- peated obfervations made while in the road. It ftands on the left or fouth bank of the * Allttmgire Sani. T. t Otherwife Ghazi-ul-dien, a man who croudcd into % few years of early youth more criines and abilities, than other confummatc villabs have done into a long life of wickednefs and treachery. For a particular and well-writ* ten account pf all thcfe tranfaftions, the reader is referred to Dew's Htfivry of HhtJoftan. river "Digitized by Google [ 447 ] river Tapi^ or Tappi, which the Moors call CJbedder^ and which Thevenot fays, has its fource ten miles from the little town of Brempore^ in the kingdom and mountains of Decan^ and runs into the fea, about two leagues and a half below Surat. At the mouth of the river, which is about half a league over, there is a bank, or bar, upon which, at low tide, there is no more than three feet water ; as, however, in fpringtides, the water rifes full fifteen feet, pretty large fhips can enter the river. Befides this, there are feveral other banks higher up in the river, of which that which lies near the vil- lage of Omrah^ half a league below Suraty is the fhoalelt ; as at low water, it is not even paflable by faiall craft : a little above the city, and farther up, the river becomes fhal- lower and fhallower, fo that at low water it is fordable near the village of Briauw^ about a Dutch mile higher up* The Banians and Gentoos efteem this a very holy river. It follows in fanélity of cftimation upon the Ganges^ which they think the oldeft in the world ; and the fame ceremonies' which are obferved with re(pe6l ta Digitized by Google [ 448 } to the former *, likewife, in a gre^t meaiorei take place in regard to the ^api. The river has many finuoiities» but its courfe lies as far as Old Sur at ^ in an e.n^e^ direétion ; from that place it runs more to the fbutbcaflward. The flux and reflux of the tide occur even ^bove the town ; there is no coafider- able afflux of water, except in the rainy feafbnj when the river rifes fometimes to a great height, and occafions much damage. In the year 17^7, it rofe fo high, that the people failed with horryi^ over the city walls as ƒar as the Durbar \, In the month of July, of the year 1776, in the time of the bad monfoon, the water of the river rofe ten fept, in the fpace of a quarter of an hour, and encreafed fo rapidly, that it was almoft upon a level with the wall of the city in a yery (hort time. The * The cerempnies obferved in the fefiival tnftituted in honour of the river Ganges^ are circuoiflantially defcribed by Mr. Stavoxinus in his Foyagt to Batavia^ BantMm^ and Boê- gal^ book iii. chapter ii. Dutch ëditqk. f Heryys are fmall veflels, ufed as lighters, in the river of Surat^ of from twenty to forty tons burthen. T. % MnmialofMf, Schreudsr. B, afflux Digitized by Google [ 379 ] afRux was fo violent, that all the veffels were carried away by it: the Company's fchooner, the Young Petery was driven from before the town high upon the fliore, at Attua^ and the Gonjouwer^ or the Holy Ship^ as it is called, was carried down the river, and daihed to pieces ; a piece of the wreck, being part of the head^ was to be feen op- pofite to the black guard, when I failed up the river in February, 1777. The road is about a league fouth of the mouth of the river. From Oólober to April it is never without fhips, that arrive here from all parts of India, and meet with a fafe place to ride in, as that is the time when the northerly winds, moftly confined between the points of n.e. and n.w. prevail. After April, the road becomes dangerous, not being protected from the wefterly and fbutherly winds, which rage uninterruptediy along this coaft, from the month of May till Auguft, and raife a very high fea ; the fea- banks, which lie about four leagues out to fea, do not afford the leafl lee ; feveral fhips were lofl in the month of May of this year, and only one or two of thofe that were VOL. II. e G driveii Digitized by Google C 380 ] driven from their anchors, and run high upon the fhore, were got ofF again. The anchorage hei-e is in feven, eight, or nine fathoms water, according to the dif- tance from the fliore which is preferred ; the Company's fhips ufually anchor in eight fa- "^ thoms, with the tower ofSuafy N. to n. by w* and the point of Najfary s,e. or s.e, | s. From repeated obfervations, we found that the anchoring - place was in 21** 57' north latitude, the variation of the compafs I® 30' N.w. and high water, at new and full moon, at twenty-four minutes paft four o'clock ; the water rifing in fpring tides four- teen or fifteen feet. The feafbns or monfoons are, as every where between the tropics in India, of two kinds, the good and the bad ; yet, ibme di- vide the year, as we do, in four portions, of which the months of March, April, and May, make the fpring, or temperate ieaibn; June, July, and Auguft, the hot fèaibn, or bad monfoon; during which, very liiltry winds and continual rains prevail : Septem* ber, . Oöober, and November, the autumn ; and December, January, and February, the cool Digitized by Google [ 3i' ] m feool fèafon, which is the beft time of thö year» I take thefe circumftances from what others related to me, foJ: I was only in per- fbn here on my firft voyage in the months of November and December ; I (hall therefore only Communicate the obfervations which I made myfelf during that time, relpeóting the temperature of the climate. From the i8th of November, to the end of that month, I found that the medium height of the thermometer was 83^, the higheft during that period ; namely, at three o'clock in the afternoon, loo*", and the loweft in the morning, half an hour before funrife, 63^, both with a clear Iky» From the i ft, to the 25th of December, the medium height of the thermometer was *]^^^ the higheft 92^; namely, on the ift, and on the 2 2d in the afternoon, with a clear Iky : and the loweft 52®, being on the 2ift in the morning, half an hour before funrife, alfo with a clear Iky- Although I could not keep daily annota- tion of the degrees of heat, ftiewn by the thermometer, during the time that I re-, mained at Surat^ on my fccond voyage, from the 25 th of February to the 7th of April, the heat wa3 not exceffive till the middle of G • 2 March, Digitized by Google [ 382 ] March, feldotn being higher than 96* ; but towards the end of March, and in the begin- ning of April, the thermometer was feldom under 104^ in the afternoon, between half paft one and half paft three o'clock, and it ^ rofe twice as high as 108*^; the northerly winds brought on fuch a fufFocating heat, that the thermometer, though hanging in the (hade, and away from all refledliou, rofc 7° and 8^ by them. The drynefs pf the air is like wife very remarkable here, even in the cool feafon. In December, I put in a fcale, hung upon an exad: balance, the quantity of 600 grains of fal tartari vitf. twenty-four hours after- wards, it had only encreafed nine grains in weight, on the following day fix, and on the third day three, grains ; without any further change being afterwards obfervable. When I made the fame experiment, on my fecond vifit, the fal tartari did not re- ceive the leaft addition in weight ; and the drought was fo great, that wooden furniture, and even tortoifc Ihell fnufF-boxes, bound with gold rims, and more articles of the fame nature, fell in pieces. The air is likewife here ftrongly impreg- nated with volatile particles» In a morning, befcrc Digitized by Google E 383 ] before fun*rife, it is both difficult and noi- fbme to pais through fcveral parts of the town, on account of the horrid ftench ariiing from carrion, human ordure, and other im- purities; efpecially near the inner Mocha- gate : but three or four hours after the fun has rifen, the intolerable odour is nearly dif- lipated and exated by- the rays of the fun* The country round Surat is Very [fertile, and the inhabitants are more induftrious than in other places, 'fo that icarcely a piece of un- cultivated ground is to be feen, or any fpot that does not yield fome ufeful produélion. The foil is a reddifh clay, and is feldom ma- nured; only they fometimes burn the dry ftubble, or refufe, of the fields, the afhes of which ferve, in fome meafure, to fupply the want of other manure. The cow and horfe dung is cither ufed for fuel, or for other nurpofes. V G G 3 CH Digitized by LjOOQIC [ 384 1 CHAPTER XL Produliions of tbc Fields. — An ujeful Sbruby producixg Oily and a Kind of Flax. — Tobacco. — Wheat. — Nillyy or Juary^ a Sort of Indian Com. — Metbci cfjowingy and of reaping, of ujing, and of felling it. — Fruits. — Palm Wine. — Capk, or Cotton Wod. — ManufaSlures of Cotton. — Few Trees. — Ttmber ircugbt from Daman. — Vegetables. — Provifions. — Wild Animals. — Avenues to the City. — The Road to Attua. — To Briauw. — To Cattercam. — To Nassary. — The Laantjes. — Walls and Ex- tent of the City. — Gates. — Minuet s.-r-Houjfcs. — Suburbs. — Streets^ X H E chief prpdu6lions of the fields here, are wheat, nilly, and rice, as al(b a certain fhrub, yielding a fruit, from which an oil ufed for lamps is exprefled 5 the ftalk, after having been laid to rot \r\ water, feparates, like the flax w t2i us, into threads, of which fail-yarn is fpun ; I conceive, likewife, that it would be fit for the manufafture of cor- dage, were the experiment made. Among the produce of the land, tobacco may equally be reckoned, which is planted along the low grounds, by the iivprficje, ThQ Digitized by Google C 385 ] The wheat, which is reaped in a fufBcient quantity to admit of exportation, and which is fometimes fent from this place to Batavia^ is large-grained, yet fomewhat longer-fhaped than the ^^eal^nd wheat, and yields good, though not very white, flour. A laft o^ wheat ufually cofts one hundred rupees, or one hundred and fifty gilders. The grain, which is called nilly by the/ Europeans, and juary by the Moors, ferves here almoft univerfally for the food of the natives, in the fame manner as rice does in nearly every other place in India. It grows in bunches like maize,* to which it bears a great refemblance ; yet the corn is fomething fmaller, and has a little point at top ; they are likewife not fo thick fet ; fome of thefe bunches weigh half a pound and more. The ftalk grows to the height of five or fix feet, and has at the upper part feveral broad leaves, which hang downwards ; when ripe» it affumes a yellowilh appearance. The feed is fown in the month of July, after the firft rainy feafon, and the harveft is made in December or January : in the latter end of November, or in the beginning of Pecember, the ftalks are bound together by G G 4 the Digitized by Google [ 386 ] the tops five and five, in order to promote the ripening of the grain for the harveft. After the land has been ploughed and harrowed, the feed is (own, nearly in a ftrait line, in the following manner : bjr the fide of one or more oxen, a long hollow reed or bamboo is faftened, which is wide above, and narrower at bottom, by which laft end it trails along the ground ; the fbwer cafts his feed into the upper orifice of the reed, and it runs out at the lower as the ox goes along, in a fbait line. The ftraw of this grain ferves for food for the oxen and cows, and the flubble is ufed as fueL The grain itfclf is ground, between two ftoncs, into meal, which being mixed up to a dough, with water alone, is baked into flat unleavened cakes, which tafte much }ike cakes of buckwheat-meaL The grain is fold by weight ; the maund, of 34f pounds, was fold, when I was there, for three-fourths of a rupee, or about twenty- three ftivers of our money* The abundance or fcarcity of food for the natives, depends upon the good or ill fuccefs pf the harveft of this graini as they fubfift, for the moft part, entirely upop it, A failure Digitized by Google [ 3«7 ] of the crop is always apprehended, when the rains do not fall at a proper period, or not in fufficient quantities, I have been affured that very good mangos grow here, which are not ripe, till February or March ; as alfo grapes, fbme of which I faw in vineyards, but did not tafte them, as they too are not ripe before the latter end of January, or the beginning of February. Oa my fccond voyage, grapes were fo fcarce, that I did not fee them at all. The cocoa-nut-tree does not occur here : though a fort of it is found, from which tary^ or toddy, is drawn ; it, however, more refcm- bles the palm-tree; the ftem is ftrait, and fome of them pretty thick and fmooth, with a fmall crown. The tafte of the toddy is very different from that of the fame kind of liquor which I drank in the eaftern provinces of Macaffer and Amboyna^ known there by . the appellation of fagwire ; the flavour of the former being much more pleafant. The trees that yield the two liquors are likewife very different in appearance ; though they fecm to me to belong to the fame genus. The chief article of trade which this coun- try affords, is cotton-cloth, the material for which, the capok^ or cotton-wool, is produced in Digitized by Google [388 ] ia abundance round Broot CAia, or Barocbe^ and higher up the country; but the chief part of the piece-goods which are manufac- tured here, are coarfe and coloured cottons : yet very fine checqucd and fcriped doreas arc niade not far fronj Baroche* No forcfts are met with in the neighbour- hood of Surat ; nothing byt k)w and fmall underwood ; though at intervals, and cfpc- cially along th? roads, fpme ihady trees occur, and, in general, of that fpecics that (hoot ;dowp little filaments from their branches, to the ground, which take root, and, in time, grow up into trees, and propagate thcmfelvK in the famp manner as the parent ftock. Numbers of thefe trees are efteem^d very Jioly by the Geptoo^, for which reafon, many pf their pagodas, or temples, iafe built under fhe fhade of fuch a tree. I^oft of the wood for fuel, and all that is wanted for houfe or fhip-building,is brought hither from Daman^ by watpr-carriage. Vegetables are f^idto be i)i fufficient plenty for the 'puropcans, during the cool feafon, Thofe wh'ch I ea? here, were an inferior fort of green peas ?ud afparagus, both of which, though they looked very well, were watery and taftelefs, and by no means ïo Digitized by Google [ 309 3 . fiice as thofe groWn at Batavia ; good (pin- age, falad, purflane, beet-root, cabbage, and earrots. The beef is very good and fat, as is mut* ton and venifon ; but poultry is fcareé, and is chiefly brought from other places. The butter and milk are likewife very good, and not very dear* Of wild animals, the tiger is, I believe, befides fnakes, the only one whofb ravages are to be feared. . The houfes fwarm with bugs, efpecially in the hot feafon; but I cannot fay that I had any reafon to complain of fuffering from them myfelf. There are fevcral beautiful avenues which lead to the city from the country. On going out of the Attuay or, as the natives call it^ the Mocho-gzXty there is a broad road, which leads fouthward, at no great diftance fron» the river ; it is planted with (hady trees on both fides, as far as Attua* This road leads farther on to the village of Omrab^ dofe to the river, and afterwards to the village of Domisy which is at the mouth of the river, pn ifhe fouth fide. The Brtauw road runs on the other fide pf the city, fo called from the village of Briauw^ Qigitized by LjOOQIC. C 390 1 BrtauWy which lies full one-»Dutch mile off^ on the oppofite fide of the river. Turning from this road to the right, the way leads to Poele Parre^ a village on this fide of the river. A celebrated fakir has, for many years, re- fided near this place, of whom I (hall have occafion to fay more hereafter. A little far- ther, a handfome garden has been laid out^ which belongs to the broker of the Englifli ; but the buildings appertaining to it, were burnt down laft year by the Marattas* Thei^enot calls the abovementioned gate the gate of Barocbcy becaufe it is through the feme that travellers to the latter place fet off* This is a very pleafant and handfome avenue, and planted, almoft the whole way, on both fides, with leafy trees, which afford an agree- able (hade. A handfome road likewife runs from the Cattergam-gzit to the village of that name, and alfo to J^oe/e Parre. Not far from there, ' upon ^n eminence, are the burial places of the Gentoo faints, of which 1 (hall fay more in the fequel. Going out of the iS^rji-gate, called by Thevenot thzt QÏ Daman^ there is likewife a pleafant road, reaching to Najfafy^ and to a village called Oedanain^ where there is a pagoda Digitized by Google [ 39» 3 pagoda, which is held in great veneration by the Hindoos. The road which I thought the moft plea- fant, was that which we call the Laantjes^ or the green walk. The little gate at the upper part of the town leads to it : we give it that appellation becaufe it is narrow and clofely overfhadowed : it has much analogy with country roads, in my native and plea- fant ifland oi Walcheren. The city of Sur at ^ as I have before laid, •• ftands Oft the left bank of the Hapi. It is encircled by a double wall ; the innermoft, being about two hours' walk in circumference, and the outermoft, which inclofes both the inner town and the fuburbs, requires almoft three hours to walk round it. At the time of Thevenot, the inner wall was recon- ftrufted of brick, having before been merely a mud-wall. The inner wall is much de- cayed, but the outer one is in tolerable good condition. The height of it within, I calcu- late at about twelve feet, and without, as the ground there is much lower, twenty and more feet ; it is feven or eight feet in thicknefs ; at the height of eight feet, it lofes about half its thicknefs, as a parapet is made there for thofe who defend the wall with fmall arms, the Digitized by Google f 3^^ 1 the üppéf part fèrving thus as a breaft-work^ loopholes being made in it, for the fufees M be fired through. This is alfo almoft the fole defence which they poflefs ; for ^s to the round and femi- circular baftions, or places of arms, which jut out from the walls, on either fide of the gate, and which are planted with a few can-* non, together with the bulwarks, or'fconces, that they call guards, which projeft a little from the wall, and are placed at intervals all round the town, at the diftance of five or fix hundred feet from each other, they are too weak, and too incapable of defence, to contribute much to the fecurity of the town^ excepting that by the iVJ^ry-gate, which has lately been rebuilt in a ftronger manner, by order of the EngliOi. The inner town has twelve gates, two towards the river, and ten towards the coun- try. There are as many gates in the outer, oppofite to thofc in the inner wall, each of which bears the fame name with the cor- refponding Innep one. One of the gates of the city, leading to the river, ftands jufl: below the caftle, and is called the C)6/tf/-gate^ becaufe all the goods, imported aod exported, muft be carried through Digitized by Google E 393 ] through this gate to be houfed in the town, or (hipped in the river, in order that the cuftoms may not be defrauded. Clofe to the inner walls, are feveral high and narrow ijpires, round which there are balconies, which the Turks call minarets^ and are uled to call the Mahoraedans to prayer. Few houfes are feen in the inner town that have any external good appearance. There are even many places, where nothing but little huts, made of bamboo, and plaiftered with mud, are met with. In the fuburbs, few other than the laft-mentioned are found ; faye in one divifion, or ward, through which one muft pafs, on going out of the D^M-gate ; in this there are none but ftone-buildings, which have a tolerably handfbme appearance. The ground enclofed between the two city- walls, is not, however, near being covered with houfes ; there are extenfive gardens in it, and eveji trafts of arable land, and many lime and , brick-kilns, efpecially from the Saras to the Attua-g^X^. The ftreets are, in general, unpaved, nar- row, and irregular, with projeding corners and (hops. In this inftance, Thevenot is xhiftaken, who fays, that they are long and broad, Digitized by Google [ 394 ] broad, or things muft have greatly changed fince his time *• In the rainy feaibn, they are very dirty, and the native inhabitants pay little attention to keeping them clean, making a common dunghill of them, and throwing every kind of filth into the middle of the road. » Sir RooEK L'Estkavob's tranfladon of Thsvekot'i travels has it, that the ftreets are <* large and even." OFiKe- TON, who was at Surat in -16891 fajrs, ** theilreets are fome too narrow, but in many places of a convenient breadth/' T. Digitized by CHAP- Google ^'y [ 46s ] CHAPTER XII. Defcriftim of the Garden of the Nabob. — Of a PUafure^gardcn hud out by the Sifter of Avkev- ZEBE. — Other Gardens belonging to Europeans. ^^ Anew Garden of the Nabob. — Burial-places of the Dutch and Portuguefe. — Monument of Mr. van Rheedb. — Singular Tmb of a Ship's Butler. — The large Tank and Banian-tree which Theve- KOT and Valentyn fpeak of^ not now to be found.— Wells of Water. —The CafkU.—The Dur- bar, or Court of the Nabob. — The Mint. — Me- thod of Coining. — FaBories of the Europeans. — That of the Dutch. — Caravanferas. — Mofques^ or Mqffieds. — Bazars^ or Markets. — The Meidan, or Cafllegreen. Among the gardens which lie in the outer town, or fuburbs, that of the nabob, who is called Mamoudi Beg, deferves the , firft place, as well on account of its large buildings, as the general magnificence with' which it is laid out. But I do not know how to give an cxacft defcription of it, not- withftanding I was fully employed for more VOL. ii« H H than Digitized by Google [ 466 J than three hours in viewing it, as it confifts, for the moft part, of buildings, in which there is an. infinite number both of large faloons, and fmall apartments, which I have been affured amounts to more than feven hundred. The whole is inclofed within a high ftone wall, which requires a quarter of an hour to walk round. The entrance is through a large ftone gate, into an area of confide- rable extent ; then up fome fteps into the great faloon, looking towards a large tank, or refervoir, in which there is fix feet water, and which is, as I gueffed, more than one hundred and fifty feet long, and about half as broad. The faloon, I take it, is full one hundred feet in length, and thirty in breadth : little niches are every where made in the walls, as well as an architec- tural ornament, as to hold little burning lamps of an evening ; on three fides it is furrounded with little apartments. Over this there is another range of apart- ments, nearly fimilar ; and again a third on another ftory ; but the laft contains fewer of the little retiring rooms. From the roof, which is flat, in the Moorifli fafhion, there is Digitized by Google [ 467 ] is a moft delightful prolpe6l over the city, a.iid its environs. The baths are on the fecond ftory ; they are built in clofed apartments, and are kept ib warm, that though it was then cool weather, I could not flay five minutes in them. In every apartment, both in the laloons, and in the fmall rooms, are fountains and cifterns of water, for wafliing* At the upper end of the abovementioned tank there is another building, and on the right hand, a third, all conftruded in the iame manner as that firft defcribed» Here the mahal^ or feraglio of the nabob, is held, when he refides here. Before the falooon belonging to it, there is likewife a large tank, or refervoir, of fixty or feventy feet in length, and twelve or fourteen in breadth ; at the upper end of which, the eyes are de- lighted by a beautiful artificial -cafcade, of twenty feet in height : on each fide of the refervoir, into which the cafcade falls, arc a number of fountains, the ftreams of which play in an oblique direftion, oppofite to and towards each other, making a watery arch, which has a moft pleafing effeél, The H H 2 water Digitized by Google r 468 ] water which is employed in thcfé works, and for the baths and citterns within the buildings, is brought part of the way from the deep wells, whence it is drawn by oxen, in leathern bags, and then is introduced into the gardens by a kind of chain pumps, to which earthen pots are fattened. T{iei"e was no furniture in any of the apartnaents ; fuch is only placed there whea the nabob takes his pleafure, in perfon, in the gardens. Although thefe buildings are faid to be not forty years old, and to have coft nine lacks of rupees, or full thirteen tons of gold, every thing feems to be in a very ruinous ccmdition, which is indeed the cafe with all the Moorifli buildings. Thus the pleafure- garden laid out by Begum Saheb, the fitter of Aurenzebe, is at prefent in a mott defolate ttate of de- lapidation. This is fituated in the outer town, near the Naffary^pXc. Thevenot, who was here in the yesu* 1666, and calls it the garden rf the princejfes^ defcribes it with much accuracy and fidelity. It re- mains ttill in an entire ttate ; and I went over the whole of it, with his delcription in Digitized by Google . [ 469 ] in my hand. Moft of the trees have, how- ever, been cut down; and few remain, but thofe conftituting the four chief walks, and one or two of the others, being all tamarind- trees. Flowers arc not found here ; all the ground is fown with different forts of pulfe and greens. It is furrounded by a high wall^ and, I compute, covers about fifteen or fix- teen acres. The abovementioned traveller fays that it lies out of the city j but the fuburbs were not then encircled by walls.* Befides » Thevbnot*8 dcfcription of this garden is as follows i «< We went a quarter of a league farther to fee the princefs't «« garden, fo called, becaufe it belongs to the great Mogul^s « fitter. It is a great plot of trees of feveral kinds ; a$ ^< mangos, palms, mirabolans, find many others, planted ** in a ftraight line. Among the flirubs I faw the qugrze^ *( èere^ or aacla^ and alfo the acacia of Eg^. There are << in it a great many ftraight walks, and efpecially the ** four which make a crofs over the garden, and have in <« the middle a fmall canal of water, that is drawn by oxen «* out of a well. In the middle of the garden there is a « building with four fronts, each whereof hath its divan, «* with a clofet at each corner ; and before every one of ** thefe divans there is a fquare bafon full of water, whence ^* flow the little brooks which run through the chief walks. <' After all, though the garden be well contrived, it is no- *< thing to the gallantry of ours. There is nothing to be H H 3 *• feen Digitized by Google [ 47^ ] Befides thefe, there are feveral other gar- dens, belonging as well to natives as to Eu- ropeans, The fccond of the Dutch fadorv, Sluiskens, occupies a pleafant garden, laid out by one Price, formerly chief of the Englifli here. The purveyor, Monte', and the junior merchant, Zimmerman, together with feveral Englifh, equally occupy gar- djcns, which are all fituated within the fii bur b- walls* After the year 1 775, which was the time 1 was at Suraty the nabob laid out a new garden, which is known by the appellation of the julmi'bach^ or the garden of injuftice, becaufe, by an abufe of his authority, he had a number of houfes, belonging to poor peo- ple, pulled down, in order to procure room for making hi3 garden, without giving any fatisfaftory indemnification to the indigent inhabitants. It covers about feven or eieht acres of ground ; it is very well plaimed and laid out, with a faloon, before which there is a •< fccn of our harbours, borders of flowers, nor of the cx- ** aé^nefs of their copartments, and for Itfs of their water* M works," Thcvcaot *s Travels, part III. chap. xiv. T. bejiutifu Digitized by Google [ 47» ] beautiful parterre of the moft fragrant flow- ers, and an aviary, in which it is a fihgular fight to fee, a great number of ^ecfe, ducks, and turkies, among a coUeftion of curious birds. _ . . ;.; ' The burial-places of the Dutch, and of the Portuguefe, are likewife fituated in the fuburbs. The former merit the attention of the traveller, ag there (, is fcarcely any grave that has not a tomb with Ipfty fpires upon it ; the ineaneft have -a graveftone with a fciilptured epitaph . That of Mr. VAN Rheede, commiffary-general of the Eaft-India Company over the weftern fac^ tories, excela all the others in largenefs of dimcnfion, elegance of arjcbitefture, mag^ nificeüce of ornament, and richncfs of ma^ teriaU and is kept in repair at the expence of the Company ; for which purpofe, not long ago, about fix thoufand rupees^ or nine thoufand Dutch gilders, were charged in account to the Company *. The tomb of a Ihip's butler, who when * When Thevenot was at Surat^ this monument was then building; C ving ton mentions it, and calls it a noble pile. T. H H 4 alive Digitized by Google [ 47^ ] alive was a true votary of Bacchus, and proved faithful to the worftiip of the Jovial god even in death, by exprefsly defiring that three large punchbowls of (tone (hould be placed upon the corners, and one at the top of the fpire, of his tomb, is much de- cayed, and only one of the punchbowls now remains entire *• Thefc burial-places are furrounded by a high wall, and cover, as I compute, about one hundred roods of ground. The burying-place of the Englifh is with- out the fuburb- walls, on the right fide of the road to Briauw. Whatever pains I took to find the large tank, and banian-tree, of which Theve- NOT and Valentyn make mention, I could not dilcover them; they have, perhaps, both been deftroyed fincc that time. I was, how- ever, aflured, that at Seculture^ a place not far from Barocbe^ fuch a tree cxifted, as that * Thbvinot and Ovingtok both likewifc notice this fingular monument, and add, that the furviving friends of the deceafed ufed to make merry at the tomb, preparing their beverage in the flone bowls, and ^ remembering him «* there fometiines fo much, that they quite forgot di(m* «« fcJves," r. , Digitized by Google [ 473 ] of which thofe writers take fuch particular notice. Although the city of Surat is built upon the banks of a river^ the inhabitants would be in want of water, as that of the river before the town is almoft always brackiih, if provifion were not made againft this in- conveniency, by a number of wells, lined with brick, which are very deep, and whence the water is brought by oxen in kathern The principal edifice belonging the city is \he caftle, which was ereded by the Moguls^ on the conquefl of Guzurat. Its ihape is an irregular iquare ; the ihorteft fide of it, and one of the oblique fides feeing the weft and northweft, are wafhed by the river. At each angle it has a large round tower, which ferves for a baftion ; the walls, or curtains, that conneft thefe together, are about half as thick, and nearly as high, as the towers, which I reckoned to be full forty feet from the ground to the battlements. On the narroweft fide there is a circvilar place of arms made between, and of the fame height as the towers. A ravelin was added to the oblique flank, next to Digitized by LjOOQIC j [ 474 ] to the river, by the Ewglifli, after they got poffeflion of the caftle, which covers that fide. As far as caft be fcen from without (for into the caüle, none vvho do not belong to the Engliih are adniitted), it appears to be pretty ftrong, built of hewn ftone, and to be well provided with artillery. On the laqdfide' it is furrounded by a ditch. It has but qi\p ^ gate, which is on the fouth fide, oppofitc to the Mcidan. Yet it could not be long defended againft a bombard- ment, on account of the great number of buildings, which occupy the fpace within its walls, none of which, as I was alTured by thofe who had been -within it, by con- nivance of the Englifh, are bomb-proof, and the garrifon would, therefore, be without Ihelter againft the deftrutlive effects of fuch an attack. The Moorifti colours are hoifted on the foutheafternmoft tower, and thofe of the Engli(h upon the fouth wefternmoft. The court, or palace, where the nabob refides, is called the Durbar ; it lies to the fouthweft, about two hundred paces from the caflle. Within it, it is faid, there is littlQ Digitized by Google C 475 ] little worthy notice. The gate which forms the entrance to it, is kept by a guard of Habfisy or Arabians, and is mounted with two old pieces of cannon, but it more refembles a ruinous hovel, than the entrance to the refidence of a prince. The mint, where the filver which is imported is coined into rupees, by having the imprcfBon of the emperor's name, and the year of his reign, .ftamped upon them, is a large pile, furrounded by a high wall. Along the wall are fheds, under which the workmen fit : on the right hand is an ele- vated apartment for the ovcrfeers and in- Ipeiftors, when any work is doing. Oppo* fite to it, a fquare place is walled off, where the filver and copper are melted, and caft in moulds, into bars, or ingots. The metal is weighed to the workmen, who cut it into pieces of the exacft weight which the coin to be ftruck requires, every one having a pair of fcales at hand for that purpofc, in which every piece is feparately weighed : thefe workmen beat it round and flat, though one piece- fometimes falls thicker than another, to which exadt attention is not paid. It then goes to the coiners, who were then about Digitized by Google [ 476 ] about thirty in number, each of whom has an affiftant, who puts the prepared pieces of copper, or filver, upon the lower die, while the other places the upper one, which he holds in his left hand, upon them, and ftamps the impreilion upon them with a forcible blow of a hammer. The lodges, or faöories, of foreign na- tions, namely, of the Portuguefe, French, Englifh, and Dutch, likewife ftand in the inner town, though each have what they call a wharf in the fuburb, called jengbi bander. The faftory of our Company is an old building, (ituated nearly in the center of the town ; there is nothing worthy of obfervation about it, and it is in an ex- tremely ruinous condition^ : it is at prefent only made ufe of for bazarring the piece- goods, that is, for examining them when they come from the manufafturers, and comparing them with the patterns. The Company ftill pay a yearly rent for the ufe of this building, to one of the natives, to whom it came by inheritance; befides which, it muft be kept in repair at the expence of the Company. Formerly, when Surat was in a more fiourifhing Digitized by Google [ 477 ] • flouriihing condition, there were feveral ca- ravanferas here, which were all very well maintained, as well from the donations of pious Muflulmen, as from certain^revenues arifing from what was paid by the travel- lers who refbrted to them. There are at prefent two, which I (aw ; one by the fide of the iVia^ry-gate, which for that reafon is called by us the doubk-gztc^ becaufe the fquare area of the caravanfera has on the two oppofite fides a large^ gateway^ lead- ing to the road of Najfary ; and one not far from the mint : they are both fquare build- ings, 'with colonades on the fides, and pro- vided with little, fquare rooms, in which the travellers pafs the night, while their l^^gg^g^ ^^^ cattle remain in the area of the caravanfera. The mofques, which are here called majpedsy the interior of which may be fcen by any one who will pull off his fhoes, pof- lefs nothing worthy of particular regard. On entering the gate, you come into an open court, which occupies about one-half of the depth of the building ; the other half is covered : no ornaments, or furniture, are feen, except the pulpit, and a fmall clofet, fixed in the wall, in which the Koran is kept. Digitized by Google [ 47» ] kept. A few chapters of this bopk arc fbmctimeg read on Fridays; but the chief iervice of their devotion confifts in mutter- ing their prayers, at certain times, in this place. There are many bazars^ or market-places, liere ; for example, the bazar .for cottons, for exchange, for greens, for wood, and fevcral others, which overflow with people, towards the evening, efpecially the firft- named, which is likewife the place where the Banian and other Afiatic merchants meet, as thofe of Europe do upon their ex- changes. A great number of retail-ihops are equally found here. The Meidan * is a large open plain, fouth of the caftle, where both our Company and the Englifli have large ttnts, or awnings, furrounded by palings of bamboos. The bales of piecegoods are kept in them till they are cbiapped and (hipped off. Not far from here, a latty^ or warehoufe, has been run up of wood, and clofed with matts of palm-leaves, in which private goods were formerly houfed. * The Englifli call it the Caftlcgreen, on account of its vicinity to the caille. CHAP- Digitized by VjOOQ IC [ 479 ] CHAPTER XIII. Inhabitants of Surat. — Banians. — Brahmins. — ^ Faquirs. — Moors. — Their particular Religion. — Tbcir CharaSler. — Gentoos. — Pagodas. — Be-- lief in Tranjmigration. — Their Solicitude not to kill any living Creature. — Their fuperjlitious Opinions in this RefpeS. — Tombs of their Saints. jL he city of Surat contains, it is faid, full iive hundred thoufand inhabitants, which does not appear entirely improbable to me, as its populoufnefs is very confiderable. Mr. ScHREUDER divides them into four claffes, namely. Moors, Banians, Gentoos, and Pcr- iians ; but, in my opinion, they ought only to be divided into three forts, for the Banians and Gentoos are the lame people, derived from the fame origin, and profefling the lame religion ; the Banians are in much greater numbers than the Gentoos, but they differ from each other in no other refped than as being of different caftes, while the carte of the Banians, according to Mr. Digitized by Google [ 48o ] ScHtEUDBK, is again fubdivided into ninety- two forts. By the beft information which I could ob- tain, from feveral tolerably learned Banians, the general divifion of the people is into four claflles, brahmins^ warriors, agriculturers, and mechanics, who are all again fubdivided into a great number of caftes ; all which are held in honour, in proportion as they refrain from the ufe of forbidden things, fleïh meatj or any thing that has received life, from the drinking of ftrong, or inebriating liquors, from the commiflion of adultery, from lying, &c. On this account, the clafs of agricul- turersj who are the lead infeded with thefe vices, are the moft efteemed, and much above the mechanics, who do not fo much obfcrve the diéhites of morality. Although the brahmins form a head-cafte, fome are, however, found among them» who are equally incorporated into otfter caftes, for inilance, in that of the 'Banians, the pre- fent broker of the company, Goven Ram, being one of them ; he always wore a ftring of yellow amber beads in his hand, in the fame manner as the illiterate Roman catho- lics have their paternoftcrs, for counting of their prayers. Faqms, Digitized by Google [ 48i i Faquirs are met with in all the caftes, a,ad like wife among the Moors, the Marattas, and the Malabars ; and they have the fame religion as the Gentoos. The Europeans are too few in number here, to be confidered as a fourth clafs of in- habitants. The Moors, orMonguls, among which may be reckoned the Arabians, the Turks, and the modern Perfians, who have fettled here for the lake of trade, becaufe they profefs the fame religion, are the proprietors of the foil,^ by right of conqucft, by which they brought nearly the half of the peninfula within the Ganges under fubje6lion to them, and would probably have extended their dominion ftill farther, had the fucceffors of Aurengzebe inherited his abilities and bravery, together with his empire. They arc called Moors in common with fevcral nations who adhere to the doélrines of Mahomet. The inhabitants of the king- dom of Granada^ in Spain, were, for that reafon, diftinguiflied by the fame name, by the chriftians of Cajlile and Arragon ; in the fame manner as the inhabitants of the Penin- fula of Hitoe at Amboynay are diftinguiflied VOL. II. I I from Digitized by Google [ 482 1 from the Leytimorcfe éhriftians, though no difference of fcolour has given occafioii thereto. Thefè people, as well as the modern Per- fianS| arc of the fe6l of the Cbiais^ who do not confider Abukeker, Omar, and Osmyn, as the lawful fuccefTors of Mahomet, but as ufurpers, efteeming Ali, the fbn-in-law of Mahomet, as the pcrfon who ought to have immediately lucceeded to the place of the prophet ; whereas the Turks, who are called Sunnites^ believe the contrary. This differ- ence of belief is the caufe of an irreconcilc- ablc hatred between thefê people, which is encouraged and cherlfhed by the princes on both fides. Although thefe Monguls, or Moors, arc pro-: feifors of the Mahomedan faith, and obierve thp folemnities and ceremonies it prefcribcs, they are neverthelcfs much infeöed with the fupcrftition of the heathens whofe country ihey have fubdued, of which their falammas^ * pr falutations to thQ moon« is a prominent inftance. Here, as >vell as in Bengal^ the Moors are, hi general, both very indolent and very proud ; hence moft of them either enlift as ibidiers, or become mendicants : few of them are Digitized by Google [ 483 ] arc to bc met with who uiiderftand any me- chanical art, and ftill fewer who carry on any trade : if, however, any of them do en- gage in commercial purfuits, they launch deep into bufinefs, and adventure largely upon the feas. A few of them who engage as failors, of whom the company have a confiderable num- ber in their fervice, which is eve» calculated at eighteen or nineteen hundred, frequently become very good feamen, although they fcl- . jdom lofe their natural indolent difpofition. Of their ftature, drefs, and manners, and likewife of their women, &c. I have made ample mention in my obfervations upon Bengal^. The religious ceremonies of the Gentoos, are not fo deferving of obfervation as in Ben^ gal. The great feftivals which are oblerved at the Ganges^ do not appear to take place, at leaft they are not accompanied with {o much pomp and circumftaiice as there, when they are obferved. Once in their lives, they vifit the pagoda of yagernate, on the coaft of Orixaj where ♦ Sec book III. chap. a. of Mr. Stavorihui's Voyage to the Cafe ^ Good Hope^ Batavia^ Bantam, and Bengal. Dutch Editoh. 112 no Digitized by Google [ 484 ] no diftinélion of caftes is made, and they all, like a nation defccnded from one common {lock, eat, drink, and make merry together- . At that time too, the cafte of the warriors, and fbme others, gre allowed to eat flefli and fifli. The burning or burying alive of widows with their deceafed hulbands, is rare here. Above Banca Parra^ on the banks of the Tapi^ a fort of tomb is (hewn, where a wo- man was burnt with her hufband, which is ^ proof of the rarity of the occurrence. The difference they make between what they eftecm fortunate and unfortunate days, which ^re announced and regulated by their priefts, is more obferveable here than in Bengal^ on account of the number of Banian merchants, with whom one has always ibme dealings, Theif priefts did not appear to me to have fo much rcfpcö paid to them as in Bengali perhaps on accopnt of their great number ; for they are made ufe of for cooleys^ or la- bourers, to carry goods in and out of the warehoufes, for which they have even an exclufive privilege. Another fort, called bbooysy arc alone entitlfd to load ^d unload (hem f Tbc Digitized by Google C 485 1 The pagodas are neither {o large nor fb' liandfome here, as in Bengal, and their idols * are of lefe confideration than there. Their belief in the metempfychofis, which., it is laid, is univerfal among the Hindoos (though I could never reconcile this with the expeftation which their priefts endeavour to imprefs upon thofe women who fufFer them- fèlves to be burnt or buried alive with their liuibands, namely, that, united to the.dcceafed in another life, they will enjoy eternal pleafures with him), makes them very folicitous about the life of every animal, as well of flich as are hurtful, as of fuch as are ufeful or harm- lefs. They will not premeditately kill any animal of any kind, nor eat of its flefh. Thofe among them, who feek to attain the higheft degree of fanftity, and endeavour to make themfelves agreeable to the divinity by their good deeds, put every meaiis in prac- tice to avoid being guilty of the murder even of the meaneft infeft. I faw feveral of them here, who wore a piece of thin linen, or gauze, before the mouth, in order not to deprive any creature of life, by their breath. Others have befides a brufli or broom, with which they fweep away 113 the Digitized by Google [ 486 1 the doft from the ground upon which they tread, that they may not cnifli any liring thing to death with their feet. Others again fearch for the places where ants reibrt, and flrew flour about them, in order to furnifii thofe infers with food. If they have the misfortune of accidenitly killing any infed or other animal, they impofe a heavy penaace upon tJiemfclvcs, which is always accom- panied by many walhings and purifications* How ridiculous fbcver the fuperftition of thefe blind heathens may now appear to us Europeans, we have only to recur to our own portion of the globe, and to the middle ages, and we fhall find an inftance of a very renowned faint, who performed a penance of fix months, bccaufe he had killed a kaat or flea that had fl:ung him *. When thefe Indian faints, whom Thevb* NOT calls vartiasy and the Dutch, for what reafon I know not, potje piffers^ die, theii- bodies are riot burnt, like thofe of the other Gentoos, but buried. Their burying-placc, which I mentioned before, lies out of the Catergam ' gd,tQ ; they are not, as was in * f^biUfipbU du ion SenSf chap« dc t Incertitude de t^fmre^ TcA. 8- & general Digitized by Google [ 4«7 ] geheral alTerted, placed in their graves with the feet upwards, but in a pofture as if they iat upon their heels. Over each grave is a iquare tomb, about four feet high, and three feet broad, open all round, except the cor- nersi upon which a little dome refts, which is built upon the tomb ; under it, exaftly in the middle, is a fquare ftonc, perfeftly white^ in which the reprefentation of two footfteps, next to each other, is carved, with an infcrip- tion round them. Their fellow-believers Ihcw great veneration for thefe tombs, and ftrew them daily with freih flowers^ s 1 1 4 CHAP- Digitized by LjOOQIC [ 4^8 ] CHAPTER XIV. Account of an Hojpital for Jick^ lame, or maimed A^i^ mals — Supported by the Contributions of the Banians and Gentoos. — Its Revenues. — Supplies of Hay, Corn, 6?^. — Grain in which there are any IVorms or fFevils depoftted here, — Licey and other Vermin j kept and fed here. — Apes and Monkeys. — A land ^ortoifCy of a remarkable Weight and Age. — ^be Perfees ofSurat. — Their Origin, — Their CharoBer. — Their Numbers. — Their Appearance. — Their Women. — Cuftoms. — Ceremonies of Marriage. — Ai the Birth of a Child. — Reception of the Bpys^ as Members of their Religion. HE Banians» or Gentoos, whofe daily occupations do not permit them to tread in thefootfteps of thefe meritorious faints, fulfil the duties impofed upon them in another manner, by providing for the welfare of ani- mals. For this purpofe, they have entered into engagements, more than a century ago, to devote a certain part. of their gains in trade, annually, to a fort of hofpital for animals, which was then ereöed by them, out of the cit Digitized by Google C 489 1 city, but which now, by the walling round ef the fuburbs, has been taken into the town, and ftands in the ward called Sagurampoura, near the Madjara^^2Xc. The hofpital itfelf is called Panjeropor^ which denotes as much as a /ociety^ as both Banians and Gentoos contribute their ihares towards the fupport of this inftitution. The former, however, contribute the largeft portion, as their profits are greater than thoie of the former ; the rate by which they pay is, one ana^ or one fixteenth of a rupee, out of every hundred rupees, clear gain- In the fame manner, the pecuniary mulds, to which they are condemned by their Brah* mins, for the fpeaking of untruths, or other venial offences, are appropriated to the fup- port of this hofpitaK The chief dircftion over it is confided to .the chief of the Banians, who receives the revenues of the inftitution, and pays the daily expences of it out of them. Although by the decay of the trade of Suraty this inftitution has fuffered in common with it, thefe revenues y/ct amount yearly to full fix thoufand rupees, or nine thoufand Dutch gilders. From Digitized by Google H [ 4^0 } From this forty icrvants are kept, who take care of and feed the animals com- mitted to their charge. Every year, five hundred thoufand truflcs of hay, and every day, {\xtyfeer of cofn, and Mtyfeef of milk, are required for keeping the fick cattle ; be« fides which, the cows and oxen are fent to pafture out of the city, unlefs they are lamed^ or unable by extreme age, to crop their food themfelves. The hofpital confifts of a large plain^ nearly fquare, of about twenty^five acres in extent, furrounded by a high wall, having fheds in feveral parts of it, under which the cattle fleep. On the left hand of the en«* trance, which is through a great gate^ there is a ftone building, in which there is a floor^ twelve or fourteen feet from the ground^ whither the Banians and Gentoos carry their 'Ipoiled grain, in which there are any worms or wevils ; when it has lain fome time there, it is cafi: through large fquare holes in the floor, into the lower part of the building, where it is kept as in a warehoufb, till the corn, with the animals in it, are entirely turned to duftv when it is carried out of the town, and ftrewed upon the garden-grounds. Lice» Digitized by Google [ 491 ] Lice, and other vermin, are likewiie kept and fed in this place, but I did not fee any of them*. The birds that are iick or maimed, are kept in cages ; but the greateft part of the quadrupeds were unconfined. Among all the animals that are maintain-* cd here, I did not, however, fee any that may be claflTed as carnivorous ; but there were a number of apes and monkeys of all forts, who were all either iick, lame, or maimed. Amongft others; I faw likewife a land tortoife, which, as I guefled, weighed at leaft one hundred and fifty pounds. This animal, as the Banians affured me, had already been kept there for the fpace of fcventy years,, and it could now fcarcely move, from ex- treme old age. Under its paws, on each * In ilcfcribing this hofpital, Ov ing ton adds the following curious circumftance, that <* to maintain the vermin with that '( choice diet to which they are ufed» and to feed tfaem with *^ their proper fiure, a poor man is hired now and then to lie «< all night upon the cot or bed where the vermin ^re put; *< and he is fafteued upon it, left their flinging force him <* to take his flight before morning ; and fo they nourifli f* themfelves by fucking his blood, and feeding on his car* " cafs." T. fidc. * Digitized by Google fide, there were four nails (ticking ou which were white, and refembled fingers that had been cut off. The animal was en- tirely blind, and was fed with nothing but milk. It was, however, dead when I was at Suratj for the fecond time, in the year 1777- Faquirs are likewife met with here, who come down from the interior parts of the country to this populous city, in order to perform their Angular penances, before nu- merous fpeftators, who croud the ftrects of it. In my obfervations upon Bengal, I have made ample mention of them, and fliaU, therefore, only add, that their manner of life and corporal iufFerings are the fame here, as jn Bengal *. The third people, or nation, who help to form the body of inhabitants at Suraf^ arc the Perfians, or Perfees. Thefe defcendants of the ancient Perfians, thofe well-known enemies of Greece, an? benefaÖors of the Jewifh people, known foj many ages by the name of Gueires, o Gahesy and likewife by the appellation o * See the third book, in the fecond volume, of Mr. Sti vORiNut's beforementioned voyage. Dutch Editor. jiteci Digitized by Google C 493 1 Atecb Perejij or worfliippcrs of fïre, aban- doned their country upon the conqueft of it by the caliph Omar, and the capture by him of their laft king Hormisdas. As the conqueror forced all his new flib- jefts to embrace the mahomedan creed, and perfccuted with fire and fword thofe who re- fufed to abandon the religion of their fore- fathers, fomc of them fled to the moft diftant parts of the province of Carmema, m which, though belonging to Perjiay it feems that the mahomedan fovereigns of the country have fufFcred'them to remain undifturbed, with refped: to their religion. Thevenot, who was in Perjia^ in the year 1665, writes, that they dwelt there, and like wife in other parts of Perfia^ and exercifcd their religion iinmolefted, A great portion, however, abandoned their country, in the year 636*, and fled for refuge to Hindoftan, refbrting more par- ticularly to the neighbourhood of Suraf,. where they obtained pcrrniflion to fettle from the Hindoos, and to exercifc their religion * This was the date when the lieutenants of Omar fub- due4 Per/tai in tJ^e Dutch original it is printed by miftake II53» T. without Digitized by Google t 494 ] without reftraint ; upon the condition^ how* ever, that they fhould never kill any ox or cow, and which they likewife affirm they have never done, even until the prefent day. Their number, in and round Suraf, is at prefent eftimated to amount to one hundred thou£uid fouls, who almoft all maiutaio themfelves by agriculture and manufac- tures*. As they much furpafs the other inhabitants of Surat in induftry, no Perfees arc feen among the beggars, with which the city fwarms ; if they are ever oppreflcd by poverty, their chiefs take care that they need not have recour fe to the defpicable life of mendicants. Many of them are do- meftics in the houfes of the Europeans, and become occafional fer van ts to the ftrangcrs who arrive in the city: they receive five rixdoUars per month wages, but muft pro- vide their own yiöuals. They encreafe in numbers from day to day, and have built and inhabit many entire wards in the fuburbs. The greateft number * Valenttn lays that the Pcrfccs of Surat are the pofterity of about 18,000 of their countrymen, who, Üying from Omak» came by fea from Cape Jaji^ in the Gttlph of Fcrfia^ Gam- ircoMf and Ormusf to Guzurat. T. of Digitized by Google C 495 1 of them, however, fays Mr. Schreüder, live in the country, and along the feacoaft from Baroche to Bazaim, and farther, where they have feveral large and wealthy villages. There are fome among them, although few, who leave their countrymen, in the neighbourhood of Surat, for fcveral years, and refort to Cochim^ the coaft of Coromandely or other places in ^ndia, in order to procure a better livelihood ; thefe leave their wives and children behind them, and marry other wives at the places where they go to refide : but they are much defpifed by their own people, efpecially when they die in another part of the country, and cannot be inhu- mated in the ufual burial-places, for it is an article of belief among them, that fuch per- fbns are eternally miferable in a future life ; for this reafon their relations fpare no ex- pence in order to have the bones conveyed to their receptacles, and fometimes are at the coft óf twenty thoufand rupees, and more, to efFeét this purpofe. Several among them at Surat are rich, and may be counted among the principal perchants. They are much fairer than either the Moors Digitized by Google t 496 ] Moors or Gentoos, and do not differ much in complexion from the Spaniards : they have, in general, large eyes, aquiline nofes, and are well-proportioned. Their women, who are ftill fairer than the men, are, generally fpeaking, tall and graceful ; they have large piercing black eyes, full of the moft fafcinating fire ; their eyebrows are black, perfeftly arched, and placed at a proper diftancc from the eyes, to add confiderably to the beauty of the face ; the forehead is high ; the nofe, like the fame feature in the men, has an aquiline bend ; the mouth is fmall, and adorned with the moft beautiful pearly teeth ; the boibm is full, and the breafts raoft fymmetrically rounded ; their legs are very handfome ; their deportment and gait is airy and grace- ful ; and their Moorifh attire loofe and gay. Thefe people, it is faid, are much ad- diéled to fenfual pleafures, and are even guilty of the unnatural crimes, which were not a little prevalent among the ancient Per- fians, and are not rare among the inhabi- tants of the country in which they at prefent refide. They, however, marry no more than one woman Digitized by Google r 497 ] woman at the lame time, and never any one but of their own nation, fo that they have preferved their race, through fo many ^gcs, pure and unmixed with other nations, to the prefcnt day. Adultery and' fornication" they punifli amongft themfelves, and even by death ; but they muft, however, give cognizance of any capital punifliment to the Moorifh go- vernment : the execution is performed in lecret, either by lapidation, drowning in the river, caftigation, or beating to death, and 'ibmetimes by poifon. Purfuers of unlawful pleafures, fpurred on by the defire of variety, and fuch as did not otherwife make any difficulty of confefling and even triumphing in their amours, have uniformly affured me, that they have never fucceeded in having their will of any Perfian woman, notwithftanding they have neither fpared affiduity nor money. The fear of punifhment has fo much, influence upon thefe women, that they never dare content, well knowing that if ever their indifcretion be dilcovered, they cannot efcape certain death. They are not, however, at all de- ficient in the amoroufnefs of conftitution, VOL. II. K s: which Digitized by Google- t 498 ] which is To much the charaderiftic of all the oriental women. They are feen, every day, in the ftreets, and frequently fetch water at a diftance from their houfes. A number of Perfian women are, however, always toge- ther, and a young girl efpccially is vcr}- rarely feen by herfelf. Girls are marriageable before they arc twelve years old, and their marriages are contracted at a very early age, and while they are mere infants; but cohabitatioo is deferred till the girls are about the above- mentioned age of puberty. As foon as the wedding-day is .fixed upon, the bridegroom and his father go round, a few days before, to the houfes of all their relations and friends, in order to announce the intended nuptials to them ; every on? is then obliged to prefent the bridegroom with Ibme articles of houfehold furniture, money, or clothes, to which cuftom he, in his turn, is obliged equally tp conform, when others of his friends marry. When the marriage* ceremony is per- formed, the bride and bridegroqpa. fit.do.Wn, with their legs crc^ed under theni, upou a fquare board, covered with cloth,, and bid upon Digitized by Google . [ 499 ] upon the ground; the fathers fit next to their children ; a cocoanutihell is given to the young couple» with fome thread» which they wind round it, and give it interchange- ably to each other three times; the prieft then ftrews fome rice, as a fymbol of pro- lificnefs, upon them ; next, after uttering a prayer, he writes upon a little billet, or note, that the father, named fo and fo, has gi/ea his daughter to be the wife of the bride- groom, fuch a one ; as ibon as the note is rolled up, a ftring of green beads is put round the neck of the bride, which flie never puts off till it is entirely worn out. It is not cuftomary to give any portion with the bride. As foon as a child is born, the father goes ' to one of their priefts, in order to inform him thereof, and he writes down where and when the child was brought into the world. The prieft then forms three names out of the horofcope of the child, writes them upon a little board ftrewed with alhes, and fends it, with much folemnity, on the iixth day afi;erwards, to the parents, that they may make choice of one of the names. When the boys are feven years old, they jiKZ are Digitized by VjOOQ IC [ Soo ] are admitted as members of their religion. They then receive a narrow woollen bandage, woven by the wives of the priefts, which is wound three times round the body over the ihirt, and which they muft wear as long as they live ; whenever it is worn out, another is furniflied by the priefts, to whom a certain fixed price muft be paid for it. Nothing of the kind takes place with re- fpcft to the girls, who are only fuppofed to be incorporated into their religion upon be- ing married. CHAP. Digitized by Google E 501 3 CHAPTER XV. Ceremonies of Sepulture among the Perjees. — Be^ Jcription of their Tombs ^ or Receptacles for their Dead. — Defolate and dreary AJpeSl of the Place. — Defcription of the Outjide of one of them. — Of the Injids of another. ^^^Danger in too eager a Cu-- ricjtty to examine them. — Singular Method of In^ ierment mentioned by Th eve not. — Superftiticus Opinions of the Perjees. W HEN a Pcrfee dies, the body is waihed clean, and drefled in the oldeft clothes be- longing to the deceafed. Then four car- riers of the dead, who are equally Per- fees, but of the very loweft clafs, to whom it is not even allowed to touch fire, take up the body, and lay it upon an iron bier, made in the form of a grate, upon which they carry it out of the city, to one of their burying- places, or, more properly, recepta- cles of the de^d *. There ^ OviNGTON, who was an eye^witnefs ot the ceremonies ob&rved at the depofition of the body of a Perfee, relates K K 3 the Digitized by Google [ 5^2 ] There are feveral of thefe receptacles near Surat^ but the principal of them ftands about the following circumfiances refpcéting them : << After the ^ body IS for fome time dead, the Hdalcbors (a fort of ibr- <* did Indians) take and cany it out upon an open bier, inta ** the open fieldt, near the place where it is to be expofed •< to the fowls of heaven. When it is there decentlj de- '* pouted upon the ground, a particular friend beats the *< fields and neighbouring villages, upon ihe hunt for a dog, ^ till he can find one out ; and having had the good luck ^ to meet him, he intices him with a cake of bread, which V he carries in his hand for that purpofe^ till he draw« him *< as near the corpfe as he is able ; for the nearer the dog is *< brought to the dead body, the nearer are its approaches ** to felicity. And if the hungry cur can by bits of cake be «< brought fo nigh the deceafed, as to copfie up to him, and ** take a piece out of bis niouth, it is then an unquefiionablc *< fign, that the condition he died» in was very happy ; but ^ if the timorops dog ftartles at the fight, or loaths the ob- << jeét, or bein^ lately well fed, ha$ no ftomach to that ordi. ^* nary mdrfel, which be mull (hatch out of ^e dead man's ** jaws, the cafe then with him is defperate, and his ftatc ^S deplorable. The poor man, whom I faw, was, by thefe <* prognoftics, very mifcrable; for the fturdy cur would by <' no means be inticed to any diftancq near him. When the ** dog has finiflied his part of the ceremony, two daroQs « (priefts) at a furlong^ diftahce from the bier, ftand up, *< with joined hands, and loudly repeat, for near half an hour^ V a tedious foim of prayer by heart ; but with fuch a quick " difpatch, that they fcarcc draw breath all the while, £s if (« th'.y had been under fome invincible neceffity of ruoiiiag " over the worwis i^ fuch a tjinje. All, the ^hilc tliey 14 vcr€ Digitized by Google [ 5^3 ] about half a Dutch mile out of the Double^ or NaJ/ary'g?Lit. The piece of ground upon which it is built, and which is about a •* were thus gabbliog, a piece of white paper, fattened to •* each ear, o'crthwart the fece, hung down two or three f^ inches bislow the chin ; and as foon as they had ended ** their petitions, the Halalcbors took up the corpfe, and con- ««. vcyed it to the repofitory, which was near; all the company <^(jf||nking themfelves by two and two, and following it with ^* joined hands. The place of fepulture is in the open fields» ** within a wall, built in form of a circle, about twelve feet *< high, and about an hundred in the circumference ; in the *' middle of which was a door of ftonè; about Jix feet froni ^ {be ground, which was opened to admit the corpfe. The f< ground within the walls is raifed above four feet, and <* made flielving towards the center, that the filth and moif* *' ture which are drained continually from the circafTes, may *^ by an eaf^ paffage defcend into a fink made in the mid- «^ die to receive them. The corpfe, therefore, was left here, «f and all the company departing thence, betook themfelves M to a rivulet that run near the place, for ablution, to cleanie <« themfelves from what defilements fhcy might have con? ^« traded on this melancholy occafion ; and retired after* any entire fkeletons in other places *. Thevenot * OviNOTON gives a moft ftriking picture of this loath- Ibme fcene, in the following words : *^ The burying-place of ** the Perfees is an objeét the ixiofl dreadful, and of the *^ moft horrid profpe(Et« in the world, and much more fright- «< fill than a field of ilaughtered men. It contains a num- *< ber of carcafles of very different^ difagreeable colours and <* afpe^. Some are feen there bleeding frefh, but fo torn '* by the vultures that croud upon the walls, that their faces *^. refemble that of a death's head, with the eyeballs out, and ^^ all the flefh upon the cheeks picked off. And on the ** fleihy part of the body, where the ravenous bird tailed a *< more delicious morfel, are eaten feveral large holes, and •' all the (kin on every part is mangled and torn, by the ^* fharp beaks of thefe devouring creatures. Here was a leg» ** and there an arm, here lay half, and there the quarter, of ** a man. Sonic looked as if they were partly jelly, others ** were hardened like tanned leather, by the various operations '* of the fun and weather upon them. Here lay one pick- ** ed as clean as )& (keleton, n^ar that, another with the fkia '* in fome parts green, in others yellow, and the whole fa ** difcoloured, as if all within were putrifaétion. A fight ^* terrible enough almoft to aflfiight ah hungry vulture from <* his prey. But thefe birds are mod delighted with thcfe ^ difmal objeéts -, and that noifome fmell which evaporates ^ from the dead corpfe, affords a plcafant odour to their ** fenfes. The ilench of the bodies is intolerable, and of ** malignity fufficient to (Irike any man dead that would en- " dure it I and yet the vultures choofe to fit to the leeward ** upon Digitized by Google [ 510 ] TffKVENoir writes, that the guebres^ who ftill remain in Perfiüy and efpecialiy in the province of Carmenia^ fet the bodies of their dead upright, in a place walled in for that purpofe ; and left the body (hould fall, they put a forked inftrument under the chin, to hold it up : they leave it in this pofturc, till the crows have picked out the eyes ; and if they begin by the right eye, they think the deceafed is happy, and then put the body upright, in a place walled in, which they call the white grave ; but if the crows be- gin by the left eye, they think the deceafed is miferable, and put the body into the black grave. Thefe graves, he fays, are pits, or wells, raifed fome fathoms high of earth, where they put the bodies ftark naked, co- vering only the privities with a rag. He further adds, that the greatcft kindnefs the guebres think they can do to a dead man, is to kill for his fake a great many frogs, << Upon the wall, luxurioufly to fuck up, and indulge tlieir *< fmell with thefe deadly foul vapours. Some of thefe ** glutted birds were fo cloyed and crammed with hunuui «* flefh, that the)r Teemed fcarce able to take wing, and the «^ feathers of others were much mouked fiway, by this kind- «• of rank feeding," Page 379. T. ferpents. Digitized by Google C 5" } ferpents, and other reptiles *. But nothing of all this takes place among the Perfees at Suratf as I have been aflured by feveral peo- ple, of whom I made enquiries on the fub- Forty roods from the repofitorics, or tombs, which I have defcribed, ftands a fquare ciftern of water, where the corpfe is wafhed by the relations, before it is car- ried into the tomb ; and no Perfep may ap- proach near to the repofitpry, much lels may look into it. If the firft be done in- advertently, which, however, feldom hap* pens, his clothes muft be burnt, his body waihed clean, and purified by the priefts; beiides which he muft perform fome heavy penance. Near this l^atory is a fmall four-cor- nered temple, covered with a fort of cupola, in which a little fire is kept alight, or fmouldering, night and day, by one of their nation, who has likewife the care over the burying-places. * See Suite du Visage iu Le^vant, torn. III. page 389 to 399. S. ^ . f Yet we have feen that Ovington mentions the fame fuperftitious opinion, with refped to which eye is firft picked tut by the bii-ds, as prevaient^alfo at Surau T. The Digitized by Google [ 512 I The bodies which have once been carried into the repofitory, may never again come out of it ; and if, by accident, any one who might be carried in for dead, were to re- cover again, and give figns of life, the car- riers 'of the dead, who are obhged to look particularly hereto, arc bound to difpatch him efFeólually, without delay ; of which, it is faid, that there have formerly been in- fiances. They believe, thai' if any one were to return again out of the tomb, God would be fb incenfed, that he would forbid the earth to bring forth fruits, and that the mofi: dreadful difailers would befal all the inhabi- tants of the country. / KVO OF VOLUME THB SECON0. Digitized by VjOOQIC Digitized by Google Digitized by Google Digitized by Google Digitized by Google